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+Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: The Great Frozen Sea
+       A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
+
+Author: Albert Hastings Markham
+
+Release Date: August 31, 2013 [EBook #43608]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREAT FROZEN SEA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marius Masi, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT FROZEN SEA
+
+
+[Illustration: "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY."]
+
+
+                   THE
+             GREAT FROZEN SEA
+
+   _A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE
+              OF THE "ALERT"_
+
+  DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6
+
+
+                    BY
+
+  REAR-ADMIRAL ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, R.N.
+      (LATE COMMANDER OF H.M.S. "ALERT")
+
+  AUTHOR OF "A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA,"
+  AND "THE CRUISE OF THE 'ROSARIO'"
+
+
+    "There's a flag on the mast, and it points to the north,
+       And the north holds the land that I love;
+     I will steer back to northward, the heavenly course,
+       Of the winds guiding sure from above."
+
+       FRITHIOF'S "SAGA"
+
+
+  SEVENTH EDITION
+
+  LONDON
+
+  KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRÜBNER & CO., LT^D
+
+  1894
+
+  (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._)
+
+
+  TO
+
+  The Memory of
+
+  REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B.,
+
+  WHO, WHILE HE LIVED, WAS THE MOVING SPIRIT IN SECURING THE DESPATCH OF
+  THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, AND WHOSE PAST DEEDS IN THE SAME FIELD
+  REFLECTED A BRIGHT RAY OF HOPEFUL LIGHT ON THOSE WHO STROVE TO EMULATE
+  HIS EXAMPLE WHILST FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOTSTEPS,
+
+  This little Work
+
+  IS REVERENTLY AND AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY
+
+  THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
+
+
+The History of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, and the record of its
+results, will be found in the work of Sir George Nares. My object in
+publishing the present volume is to furnish a popular narrative of
+memorable events as they presented themselves to an individual member of
+the Expedition, and especially of the work of sledge travelling over the
+frozen polar ocean. It was written a few months after our return to
+England, but its appearance has been purposely deferred until the
+publication of the work by Sir George Nares.
+
+The same reasons still exist for continuing the work of Arctic
+exploration as were adduced for commencing it in 1875.
+
+It is impossible to complete so great a work in one campaign, and the
+results of the late Expedition ought only to whet our appetites, and
+stimulate us to undertake further discoveries.
+
+The narrative of Sir George Nares will show the completeness of the
+work accomplished, so far as the route by Smith Sound is concerned, and
+with the appendices containing the numerous and valuable scientific
+results, will prove the importance of Arctic discovery. But there are
+other routes remaining to be explored, which will yield equally useful
+results.
+
+Behring Strait is a portal leading to a vast region, the history of
+which has hitherto been as a sealed book.
+
+An expedition to the east coast of Greenland for the purpose of
+connecting our discoveries at Cape Britannia with those of the Germans
+at Cape Bismarck, and thus solving the interesting geographical problem
+regarding the insularity of Greenland, would be of the greatest
+importance.
+
+The exploration of Jones and Hayes Sounds offer a rich field; but that
+which, in my opinion, would yield the most profitable harvest, is the
+continuation of the discoveries of the Austro-Hungarian expedition in
+Franz-Josef Land. Once reach in a ship the position attained by Lieut.
+Payer and his sledge party, and such a measure of success would follow
+as would prove satisfactory even to the most sanguine. Although the
+flags of Holland, Sweden, and America will this year float in the Arctic
+Regions, that of England will be unrepresented.
+
+It is hardly to be expected, in the present critical state of affairs,
+that our Government can afford to give either time or attention to the
+subject of Arctic exploration, but when the existing differences are all
+happily settled, there will really be more reasons for following up the
+work than were brought forward for undertaking it in 1875. We were never
+in a better position for doing so than at the present time. We possess a
+couple of ships whose capabilities for Arctic navigation have been
+already thoroughly tested, and found perfect; we have officers and men
+experienced in the navigation of those icy seas and in sledging, and we
+have stores and provisions ready to equip another expedition.
+
+The expense, seeing that the ships and stores are lying idle, would be
+insignificant, and would hardly be more than equal to that of keeping a
+couple of small gun-boats in commission. Surely this great nation could
+easily afford, in the interests of science and for her own honour, to
+incur such an expenditure. I trust so; and I, for one, look forward with
+confident hope to the despatch, in a few years, of another Arctic
+expedition as well equipped as the one of which I was lately a member.
+
+  A. H. M.
+
+  21, ECCLESTON SQUARE,
+    _March, 1878_.
+
+
+
+
+OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OF H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+
+OFFICERS.
+
+  _Captain_, GEORGE S. NARES, F.R.S.
+  _Commander_, ALBERT H. MARKHAM, F.R.G.S.
+  _Lieutenant_, PELHAM ALDRICH.
+          "         ALFRED A. CHASE PARR.
+          "         GEORGE A. GIFFARD.
+          "         WILLIAM H. MAY.
+  _Sub-Lieutenant_, GEORGE LE C. EGERTON (promoted to Lieutenant during
+     the absence of the expedition).
+  _Fleet Surgeon_, THOMAS COLAN, M.D.
+  _Surgeon_, EDWARD L. MOSS, M.D.
+  _Engineer_, JAMES WOOTTON.
+          "        GEORGE WHITE.
+  _Naturalist_, Captain H. WEMYSS FEILDEN, R.A., F.G.S., F.Z.S.
+  _Chaplain_, Rev. W. H. PULLEN.
+
+
+SHIP'S COMPANY.
+
+  Joseph Good, chief boatswain's mate.
+  John R. Radmore, chief carp. mate.[1]
+  Geo. Burroughs, ship's steward.
+  Vincent Dominic, ship's cook.
+  David Deuchars, ice quartermaster.
+  John Thores, ice quartermaster.
+  James Berrie, ice quartermaster.
+  Edward Lawrence, 1st cl. P.O.[2]
+  Daniel Harley, 1st cl. P.O.[3]
+  Thomas Stuckberry, 1st cl. P.O.
+  Thomas Rawlings, 1st cl. P.O.
+  James Doidge, 1st cl. P.O.[4]
+  Thomas Jolliffe, 1st. cl. P.O.
+  Spero Capato, captain's steward.
+  George Kemish, W. R. steward.
+  Frederick Cane, armourer.
+  John Hawkins, cooper.
+  William F. Hunt, W. R. cook.
+  Robert Joiner, leading stoker.
+  John Simmons, 2nd cl. P.O.
+  Adam Ayles, 2nd cl. P.O.
+  William Ferbrache, A.B.
+  George Cranstone, A.B.
+  William Lorrimer, A.B.
+  George Winstone, A.B.
+  Reuben Francombe, A.B.
+  Thomas H. Simpson, A.B.
+  David Mitchell, A.B.
+  Alfred R. Pearce, A.B.
+  James Self, A.B.
+  William Woolley, A.B.
+  John Pearson, A.B.
+  William Maskell, A.B.
+  William Malley, A.B.
+  Robert Symons, A.B.
+  Henry Mann, shipwright.
+  William Gore, stoker.
+  John Shirley, stoker.
+  Edward Stubbs, stoker and blacksmith.
+  George Norris, carpenter's crew.
+  Neil Christian Petersen, Danish interpreter and dog driver.[5]
+  Frederic, Eskimo dog driver and hunter.
+
+
+MARINES
+
+  William Wood, colour-sergeant R.M.L.I.
+  William Ellard, private R.M.L.I.
+  Thomas Smith, private R.M.L.I.
+  John Hollins, private R.M.L.I.
+  Elias Hill, gunner R.M.A.
+  George Porter, gunner R.M.A.[6]
+  Thomas Oakley, gunner R.M.A.
+
+The following sledge crew from H.M.S. "Discovery" wintered on board the
+"Alert":--
+
+  Lieutenant Wyatt Rawson.
+  George Bryant, 1st cl. P.O.[7]
+  George Stone, 2nd cl. P.O.
+  Michael O'Regan, A.B.
+  James Hand, A.B.[8]
+  Thomas Chalkley, A.B.
+  Alfred Hindle, A.B.
+  Elijah Rayner, private R.M.L.I.
+
+The following "means" of ages, weights, and chest capacities of those
+belonging to the "Alert" may be of interest:--
+
+                                            Chest
+                    Age.        Weight.    Capacity
+
+  Officers       32.1 years    149.8 lbs.    266
+  Men            27.4  "       146.6  "      245.1
+  General Mean   28.4  "       147.3  "      249.5
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Promoted to carpenter.
+
+  [2] First class petty officer.
+
+  [3] Lost in H.M.S. "Eurydice."
+
+  [4] Promoted to boatswain.
+
+  [5] Died on May 14th from the effects of frost-bite whilst sledging.
+
+  [6] Died on the 8th of June of scurvy whilst sledging.
+
+  [7] Promoted to boatswain.
+
+  [8] Died in June of scurvy whilst sledging with Lieut. Beanmont.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                     PAGE
+  DEDICATION                                            v
+
+  PREFACE                                             vii
+
+  OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OR H.M.S. "ALERT"        xi
+
+  CHAPTER I. FITTING OUT.
+
+Description of ships, 2; special fittings, 3; selection of officers and
+men, 5; kindness of friends, 6; games and musical instruments, 7;
+visitors to the ships, 8; departure, 9; arrival at Bantry Bay, 12; the
+voyage commenced, 13.
+
+  CHAPTER II. THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.
+
+Tests of physical capacity, 15; regular issue of lime-juice, 16; gales
+of wind in the Atlantic, 17; slow progress, 19; whales, 20; the first
+ice, 22; the Land of Desolation, 22; seals, 23; the Greenland coast, 25;
+fishing for cod, 25; arrival at Godhavn, 26.
+
+  CHAPTER III. THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.
+
+An Eskimo dance, 28; Eskimo dogs, 29; amusements at Godhavn, 30; ascent
+of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, 31; aid from the "Valorous," 33; tradition of
+Disco, 34; Ritenbenk, 35; part company with "Valorous," 36; the Waigat
+Strait, 36; dangers in the Waigat, 37; Proven, 38; Hans Hendrik engaged,
+39; "Sanderson, his hope," 39; Upernivik, 41.
+
+  CHAPTER IV. MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.
+
+Preparations for a nip, 43; the middle ice, 44; a bear hunt, 46; the
+North Water, 47; Cary Island depôt, 49; approaching Smith Sound, 50;
+enter Smith Sound, 51.
+
+  CHAPTER V. SMITH SOUND.
+
+Life-boat Cove, 53; visit winter quarters of "Polaris," 54; Littleton
+Island, 55; Cape Isabella, 56; stopped by the ice, 57; Payer Harbour,
+58; first experiences in sledging, 59; Twin Glacier Bay, 60; an Arctic
+paradise, 61; tidal observations, 62.
+
+  CHAPTER VI. STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.
+
+Open water, 64; in danger of a nip, 65; vigilance of Captain Nares, 66;
+wanderings of the Eskimo, 68.
+
+  CHAPTER VII. A WALRUS HUNT. DOG DRIVING.
+
+Grinnell Land, 72; glaciers, 73; a walrus hunt, 74; amusements on the
+ice, 77; the Eskimo dogs, 78; dog sledging, 80.
+
+  CHAPTER VIII. SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.
+
+Cape Hawks and Dobbin Bay, 83; discovery of an ancient cairn, 85;
+cutting a dock, 87; struggles through the ice, 90; dangerous position,
+91; Cape Fraser, 92; junction of two tides, 92; Cape John Barrow, 93;
+Cape Collinson, 94; heavy squalls, 95; increasing thickness of floes,
+96; icebergs decreasing in number, 96.
+
+  CHAPTER IX. KENNEDY CHANNEL.
+
+Cape Constitution, 98; difference in appearance of coast-lines, 99; Hall
+Basin blocked with ice, 100; Bessels Bay, 100; Hannah Island, 101; cross
+Kennedy Channel, 103; musk-oxen, 104; winter quarters of "Discovery,"
+107; the two ships part company, 107.
+
+  CHAPTER X. THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD.
+
+Robeson Channel, 110; stopped off Cape Beechey, 113; Shift-Rudder Bay,
+114; floe-bergs, 114; the first lemming, 115; marine shells above
+sea-level, 116; depôt established at Lincoln Bay, 117; a fortunate
+escape, 119; crossing the threshold, 119; finally stopped by ice, 121;
+the Frozen Ocean, 122.
+
+  CHAPTER XI. FLOE-BERG BEACH.
+
+Saved by floe-bergs, 125; precarious winter quarters, 126; a
+reconnaissance in dog-sledges, 128; habits of Eskimo dogs, 130;
+Dumb-bell Bay, 131; eider-ducks, 132; two boats advanced northwards,
+133; a severe march, 134; danger of the ship, 134; unable to move, 135;
+autumn sledging commenced, 136.
+
+  CHAPTER XII. AUTUMN TRAVELLING.
+
+Autumn travelling, 138; discomforts, 139; liability to frost-bites, 142;
+difficulties, 145; cheerfulness of the men, 146; highest position
+reached in the autumn, 147; frost-bites, 147; return of travellers, 149;
+results, 150.
+
+  CHAPTER XIII. WINTER QUARTERS.
+
+Preparations for winter, 152; observatories, 153; snow houses, 154; the
+ship "housed" in, 154; interior arrangements, 156; winter clothing, 159;
+precautions against fire, 161; observations for temperature, 162.
+
+  CHAPTER XIV. THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
+
+Printing-office, 164; school, 166; amusements, 167; Thursday pops, 168;
+lectures, 169; the Royal Arctic Theatre, 170; the prologue, 172;
+conjuring entertainment, 175; magic-lantern exhibition, 176.
+
+  CHAPTER XV. WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.
+
+Departure of the sun, 178; Guy Fawkes' Day, 179; scientific
+observations, 180; the moon, 181; open-air exercise, 181; inconvenience
+from drip, 182; fluctuations of temperature, 183; movement of the ice,
+184; celebration of birthdays, 185; bill of fare, 185; fresh meat, 186;
+Divine service, 187; medical inspections, 187; tabogganing, 187; Nellie,
+189; a lost dog, 190.
+
+  CHAPTER XVI. AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.
+
+Preparations for Christmas Day, 193; Christmas presents, 194; Christmas
+Day, 195; retrospect, 197; frost-bite patients, 198; precautions against
+frost-bite, 199; the Palæocrystic Sea, 200; a brilliant meteor, 200.
+
+  CHAPTER XVII. A HAPPY NEW YEAR.
+
+New Year's Day, 202; mustard and cress, 205; heavy snow-drifts, 206;
+returning light, 207; severe cold, 208; an alarm in the observatory,
+209; condition of the Eskimo dogs, 210; Nellie and the lemmings, 212;
+Rawson's snow hut, 212; the last school meeting, 213; the last dramatic
+performance, 214; the last "pop," 215; grand palæocrystic sledging
+chorus, 216.
+
+  CHAPTER XVIII. RETURN OF THE SUN.
+
+Cairn Hill, 220; the sun's return, 221; intense cold, 223; experiments
+on various substances during extreme cold, 223; daylight, 225; alarm of
+fire, 226; dismantling the observatories, 227; the sledge-crews
+exercised, 228; a wolf, 229.
+
+  CHAPTER XIX. DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+Preparations for sledging, 231; weights, 232; auxiliary sledges and
+depôts, 234; tents, 235; cooking apparatus, 236; scale of provisions,
+237; lime-juice, 238; medical instructions, 238; sledging costume, 239;
+precautions against snow-blindness, 240; programme of sledging work,
+241; boats to be carried by northern division, 244; names of sledges,
+245.
+
+  CHAPTER XX. THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON.
+
+Decide to communicate with "Discovery," 247; departure of Egerton and
+Rawson, 248; their return, 249; Petersen frost-bitten, 249; heroic
+conduct, 251; efforts to save Petersen, 251; difficulties of the return
+journey, 253; Egerton's second start, 255; death of Petersen, 255.
+
+  CHAPTER XXI. THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+Departure of the sledges, 258; first camp, 260; intense cold, 262;
+arrival at the autumn depôt, 263; the parties separate, 264; duties of
+cook, 265; sledging breakfast, 266; luncheon, 266; halting for the
+night, 268; evenings in the tent, 270.
+
+  CHAPTER XXII. THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL.
+
+Heavy ice encountered, 273; road-making over the ice, 275; struggling
+over hummocks, 278; daily routine, 279; continued cold, 280; excellence
+of the sledges, 281; first symptoms of disease, 282; a gale of wind,
+283; heavy snow-drifts, 285; disease increasing, 286; excellent conduct
+of the men, 286; resolve to abandon one boat, 288; increased weight to
+drag, 289; intense cold, 290; state of the floes, 291; cross the 83rd
+parallel, 292; enormous hummocks, 293; hummocks and snow-drifts, 294;
+tracks of a hare seen, 296; young ice, 296; enforced rest, 297.
+
+  CHAPTER XXIII. THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.
+
+Scurvy, 299; difficulties increasing, 300; struggling northwards, 301;
+hummocks discoloured by mud, 301; condition of party, 303; issue of
+lime-juice, 304; scorbutic symptoms, 305; the last advance, 306; most
+northern encampment, 307; soundings obtained, 308; the most northern
+position ever reached by man, 309.
+
+  CHAPTER XXIV. RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.
+
+Homeward bound, 312; increased sufferings, 314; courage of the men, 316;
+extreme weakness of the men, 316; abandonment of the second boat, 318; a
+snow-bunting seen, 319; the land reached, 321; Parr despatched for
+succour, 322; a stray dog, 322; death of Porter, 323; his burial, 323;
+saved, 325; return on board, 326.
+
+  CHAPTER XXV. RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.
+
+Causes of scurvy, 329; anxiety for Aldrich, 331; May sent to his rescue,
+331; return of Aldrich, 332; care of the sick, 333; the welcome back,
+335; decide to return to England, 337; musk-oxen, 338; shooting parties,
+338; liberation of the ship, 341; under weigh, 342.
+
+  CHAPTER XXVI. THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.
+
+Preparations for abandoning ship, 344; communicate with "Discovery,"
+345; discovery of Eskimo relics, 347; a severe nip, 348; critical
+situation of ship, 349; Discovery Harbour, 349; return of Beaumont, 350;
+a frozen cave, 350; "Alert" forced on shore, 351; struggles with the
+ice, 352; pass Cape Fraser and Dobbin Bay, 353; a seal and fox shot,
+354; reach the open sea, 354.
+
+  CHAPTER XXVII. HOMEWARD BOUND.
+
+Cape Isabella, 357; letters from home, 358; bad weather, 359; Whale
+Sound, 359; off Lancaster Sound, 360; reappearance of fulmar petrels,
+361; reach Godhavn, 362; receive letters from England, 363; leave
+Godhavn, 363; Egedesminde, 364; sight the "Pandora," 366; arrive at
+Valentia, 367; at Queenstown, 367; welcome home, 368.
+
+  INDEX                                   _Page_ 371
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+FULL-PAGE PLATES.
+
+
+                                            PAGE
+  "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY"          _Frontispiece_
+  POLAR BEARS                        _To face_ 46
+  WINTER QUARTERS H.M.S. "ALERT"              151
+  HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP                       308
+  REDUCING A FLOE-BERG                        349
+  H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE              351
+
+
+SMALLER WOODCUTS.
+
+  SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE                     23
+  ESKIMO WOMEN                                 28
+  WALRUSES                                     75
+  CAPE HAWKS                                   84
+  PLAN OF ICE DOCK                             88
+  "THE MOANING OF THE TIED"                    89
+  MUSK OXEN                                   105
+  KNOTS                                       111
+  DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES                  131
+  START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES                 143
+  DIAGRAM OF MAGNETIC OBSERVATORIES           153
+  FLAG-STAFF POINT (CAPE SHERIDAN)            155
+  ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN
+    AND THE WONDERFUL SCAMP"                  170
+  NELLIE                                      189
+  LEMMINGS                                    212
+  CAIRN HILL                                  220
+  SLEDGE UNDER SAIL                           231
+  DOGS AND SLEDGE                             247
+  GETTING READY TO "BAG"                      269
+  CHART OF OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS          274
+  INTERIOR OF TENT                            280
+  A PACKED SLEDGE                             281
+  SNOW-BUNTING                                319
+  BRENT-GOOSE AND EIDER-DUCKS                 340
+  ALLMAN BAY                                  355
+  FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES")                  361
+  FAREWELL!                                   369
+
+     *     *     *     *     *
+
+  MAP SHOWING THE DISCOVERIES OF THE ARCTIC
+    EXPEDITION, 1875-6              _To face_   1
+
+
+[Illustration: ARCTIC EXPEDITION 1875-76.]
+
+
+THE GREAT FROZEN SEA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+FITTING OUT.
+
+
+  "Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede,
+   Habundantly for hire a ful long space:
+   And other necessaries that shuld nede
+   She had ynow, heried be Godde's grace:
+   For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace,
+   And bring hire home, I can no better say
+   But in the see she driveth forth hire way."
+
+     CHAUCER (_Man of Lawe's Tale_).
+
+The above quaint lines, written five hundred years ago, well describe
+the scenes that were being enacted during the months of April and May,
+1875, in Portsmouth Dockyard.
+
+Busy as this great naval depôt of England almost always is, it is
+seldom, in peace time, that so much interest is shown in the equipment
+of two small steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those that
+were then lying "all a taunto" in the steam basin of that extensive
+yard.
+
+The names of those comparatively small ships were the "Alert" and the
+"Discovery," their destination the unknown North.
+
+Although of insignificant size, in comparison with the huge ironclad
+monsters by which they were surrounded, yet a close observer would
+readily detect signs of great strength in these two business-like
+looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they should possess
+strength and powers of resistance of no ordinary kind, for they were
+destined to grapple and fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of
+the Polar Ocean.
+
+The two ships had been very carefully selected and fitted for the
+important work in which they were about to engage. The "Alert" was a
+17-gun sloop, and had already served two or three commissions on foreign
+stations before she was converted for Arctic service. The "Discovery"
+was built in Dundee for the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had
+been engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland, before she
+was purchased for the Arctic expedition.
+
+The "Alert" was thoroughly strengthened, and, under the supervision of
+the Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock),
+adapted in every way for the hazardous service on which she was about to
+be employed.
+
+After a complete overhaul of her hull, all defective timbers and beams
+were removed, and replaced by sound ones; extra beam power was
+introduced; an external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering from
+amidships to four inches forward and three inches aft, extending from
+the keel to the waterways, was put on; whilst a longitudinal beam,
+placed between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway internally,
+bound and strapped the whole ship together. Extra iron knees were
+introduced in order more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of
+the ice; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch iron plates
+extending to about ten or twelve feet aft, whilst inside the bow was
+strengthened by numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood.
+
+Between the inside planking and the lining were placed sheets of felt
+for the promotion of warmth. New waterways, of a most substantial form,
+were added; and the ship was divided into watertight compartments.
+
+Two large davits projected over each quarter of the vessel, by the aid
+of which the rudder, some three tons weight, was easily shipped and
+unshipped when in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these occasions
+it would be suspended horizontally over the stern from the davits.
+
+Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance for making water,
+consisting of a large reservoir to receive either snow or ice; this,
+being dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is drawn off
+through a tap at the bottom, thus providing our water supply. Like all
+vessels employed in the whaling trade, both ships were fitted with
+Pinkey and Collins' patent reefing and furling topsails; and each
+possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable of being utilized for
+many purposes.
+
+At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel was a large barrel-like
+object. This was the crow's nest, a very necessary item on board all
+ships destined to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged,
+and were supplied with the ordinary contrivances used on board
+short-handed merchant vessels to facilitate the work.
+
+They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the heavily rigged but trim
+men-of-war, which, with their tapering spars and faultlessly squared
+yards, lay in the harbour near them.
+
+Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various shapes and sizes,
+specially designed and constructed for the service peculiar to Arctic
+waters. Two of these were completely equipped for whaling, so as to be
+able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals. They were both fitted
+with harpoon-guns fixed on swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three
+in number for each ship, and were built as light as it was possible to
+make them. Paddles were supplied, by which they could be propelled, as
+well as oars. They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each
+were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection from the ice.
+
+The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings, were exactly
+similar. They were what are commonly called "fiddle-heads," having the
+Union Jack painted on them, and underneath the word _Ubique_; and to no
+flag can that word be more truly and more appropriately applied.
+_Everywhere_ is it to be found, even beyond the limits of the abode of
+man!
+
+The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships were in a great
+measure regulated according to the establishments by which preceding
+expeditions had been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture
+and quality.
+
+Great care was taken in the selection of both officers and men, and none
+were appointed until they had undergone a searching medical examination
+as to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected who had
+the appearance of being fine and eligible young fellows. The slightest
+defect, such as bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for
+refusing the services of otherwise apparently strong and healthy men.
+Numerous were the volunteers that came forward, rendering the task of
+selecting a few from the number of eager willing men that presented
+themselves one of no little difficulty.
+
+Their social and moral qualifications were as strictly inquired into as
+was their physical condition; and men of a happy and genial disposition
+were selected in preference to others who appeared morose and taciturn.
+
+"Can you sing or dance? or what can you do for the amusement of others?"
+were questions invariably addressed to candidates for Arctic service by
+the board of officers appointed to select from the numerous applicants
+who presented themselves.
+
+The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of those individuals who
+were informed that they were to be of that small chosen band, indicated
+most clearly the popularity of the enterprize amongst the men of the
+Royal Navy; whilst the disappointed ones, and they were many, showed
+only too plainly the mortification they experienced at being rejected.
+As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men to be employed in the
+expedition, a gallant captain commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at
+the office where the men were being entered, and requested advice. He
+said, "An order has come on board my ship, directing me to send
+volunteers for Arctic service to this office. What am I to do? The whole
+ship's company, nearly eight hundred men, have given in their names!"
+
+This is merely mentioned in order to show the amount of interest taken
+by the whole navy in the cause for which the ships were being equipped.
+
+The ships' companies being completed, officers and men were
+unremittingly engaged in the various duties incidental to fitting out.
+Provisions and stores, sufficient to last for three years, had to be
+received on board and stowed away. There was no waste space on board
+either vessel. Every little nook and corner was destined to be the
+receptacle of some important article. The ships gradually settled down
+in the water as the weights on board accumulated, until they appeared to
+be alarmingly deep, whilst much yet remained unstowed. The Admiralty
+had, however, provided for this emergency. The "Valorous," an old
+paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was ordered to convey
+all surplus stores, that could not be stowed on board the two exploring
+vessels, as far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of Greenland.
+
+This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as it would be obviously
+unsafe to cross the Atlantic in boisterous weather, laden as the two
+ships undoubtedly would have been if they had received no assistance
+from a third vessel in the conveyance of their stores.
+
+Through the kindness and generosity of our friends, and of those who
+more especially interested themselves in the progress of Arctic
+discovery, we received many useful and valuable gifts. Her Majesty and
+the members of the Royal Family testified, in a substantial manner, the
+deep interest they took in the enterprize. The name of her Imperial
+Majesty the Empress Eugénie must always be associated with the
+expedition as one of its warmest friends. Her kind and considerate
+present, consisting of a fine woollen cap for each individual,
+contributed materially to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous
+duties of sledging.
+
+To mention the names of all our generous benefactors would require a
+chapter to itself. Books, magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money
+came pouring in from all sides; but smaller and less valuable, though
+not the less appreciated, gifts were also received. A small case, with
+the superscription, "A Christmas box for my friends on board the
+'Alert,'" and containing four bottles of excellent punch, and a little
+parcel of well-thumbed books and periodicals, showing undoubted signs of
+having been well perused, but which came with the "best wishes of a
+warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer," were accepted with as
+much pleasure and gratitude as were the more costly presents.
+
+Games of all descriptions, to while away the long evenings of a dark and
+monotonous winter, were purchased; whilst a complete set of instruments
+for a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list of our
+necessaries.
+
+In devoting a certain sum of money to the purchase of musical
+instruments and games, wherewithal to amuse ourselves, we were only
+following an example set us many years ago; for when Sir Humphrey
+Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering new lands, and
+planting Christian colonies upon those large and ample countries
+extending northward from Florida, we read that, "for the solace of our
+people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided of musicke in
+good varietie; not omitting the least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby
+horses, and many like conceits, to delight the savage people, whom we
+intended to winne by all faire meanes possible."
+
+We also hear, when that brave old navigator John Davis undertook his
+first voyage in 1585, with his two frail little barks, the "Sunneshine"
+and the "Mooneshine," that in the first-named vessel were twenty-three
+persons, of whom four were musicians--a large band in proportion to the
+complement of officers and men.
+
+In spite of the bustle and confusion that are inseparable from the
+preparation of such an expedition, in spite of fresh paint and tarry
+ropes, several thousands of visitors came on board before sailing, to
+the no small hindrance of the work; but it is feared that many others,
+owing to the stringent regulations that it was necessary to issue in
+order to have the vessels ready by the appointed time, were compelled to
+return to their homes without having the satisfaction of saying that
+they had been on board the Polar ships. Amongst those who honoured the
+vessels with a visit were his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, his
+Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, and her Imperial Majesty the
+Empress Eugénie.
+
+The entertainments given in our honour were very numerous; many were
+almost regarded as _farewell_ banquets.
+
+We were looked upon as public property; our hospitable countrymen, in
+the generosity of their hearts, never thinking that we should like to
+spend our last few days in England in peace and quietness amongst our
+own friends, wished to feed us on the fat of the land, and send us to
+sea suffering from that worst of all complaints, dyspepsia, accompanied
+perhaps by _mal de mer_.
+
+At length all preparations were completed. The day originally assigned
+for the sailing of the expedition, the 29th of May, dawned grey and
+misty, with dashes of rain falling and lying in little pools on our
+freshly painted deck. During the forenoon we were honoured by a visit
+from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, who came to bid us
+farewell and success on our mission. This was the last official visit
+paid to the vessels. At its termination officers and men were left
+pretty much to themselves, so that their last few hours in England might
+be spent with their own relatives. Four o'clock in the afternoon was the
+hour named for the departure of the ships, and punctual to the very
+minute they cast off from the dockyard jetty. The last embrace had been
+taken, the last fervent farewell had been wished, and, a good omen for
+the coming voyage, as the vessels steamed out of Portsmouth Harbour, all
+clouds cleared away, and the sun shone out bright and joyous. During the
+day crowds had been flocking from all parts of England in order to add
+their voices to those of other well-wishers to the enterprize. Seldom
+before in that famous seaport town, although the centre of many stirring
+events, had such a scene been witnessed. Thousands of spectators were
+congregated along the sea-face extending from the dockyard to Southsea
+Castle, and on the opposite shore of Gosport, to witness our departure;
+and cheer after cheer pealed forth from the assembled multitude as we
+slowly threaded our way amongst the numerous yachts and pleasure boats
+that had collected to bid us Godspeed. A small thin line of red, hardly
+to be distinguished amidst the more sombre hue of the holiday seekers'
+dresses, denoted the troops of the garrison drawn up to do honour to
+their comrades of the sister service, whilst their bands, breaking forth
+with the soul-stirring strains of "Auld lang syne," found an echo in the
+hearts of all connected with the expedition.
+
+It was, indeed, a proud moment for us as we witnessed this unmistakeable
+demonstration, and felt that we, a small but chosen band, had been
+selected to carry out a national enterprize of such importance.
+
+If anything was required to assure us of the popularity of our
+undertaking, the spectacle that afternoon on Southsea Common was surely
+a convincing proof.
+
+There was but one responsive feeling in the hearts of every member of
+the expedition, namely, a determination to deserve this confidence, and
+to achieve, with God's help, such a measure of success as would prove
+satisfactory to the country and creditable to the navy.
+
+It will be long before that scene is effaced from our memories. Our last
+view of Portsmouth was across a bright blue sea to a shore thronged with
+an enthusiastic and cheering crowd waving a last farewell; whilst the
+last glimpse our friends had of us was across the same blue sparkling
+sea, the snow-white sails of our ships being lit up by the rays of the
+setting sun.
+
+Our feelings appeared to be reflected in the changes of the weather on
+that, to us, memorable day. The rain and mist in the morning were
+emblematical of the sorrow of parting; while when the sun burst forth
+bright and joyous in the afternoon, we all felt assured that the work on
+which we were about to be employed would be achieved, and that the
+enterprize commenced under such bright auspices would terminate as well
+and happily.
+
+Nothing occurred to mar the departure; one incident only happened that
+might have terminated disastrously and thrown a gloom over the little
+squadron. Immediately after the pilot had been discharged, one of the
+men of the "Alert," in the excitement and ardour of responding to the
+cheers with which we were on all sides greeted, lost his balance in the
+rigging and fell overboard. He was, however, quickly picked up and
+brought on board none the worse for his immersion, although the
+consternation excited by this mishap to a boatload of men and women, who
+happened to witness the accident, nearly resulted in fatal consequences.
+The half-drowned and thoroughly drenched man being restored to his
+shipmates, the squadron having been joined at Spithead by the
+"Valorous," rounded the Nab-light vessel, and before a fine fresh
+north-easterly breeze spread their sails and steered down channel.
+
+For many hours, however, they were escorted by a little yacht containing
+the relatives of some few of the officers of the expedition, which
+following in their wake reluctantly parted only when all further
+communication was impracticable.
+
+This, and a visit we received on the following morning from the brave
+old admiral, the Commander-in-chief at Plymouth, when passing the port,
+was the last sight of friends we were destined to enjoy for many a long
+month.
+
+We all felt that we had bidden them a long farewell, and from
+thenceforth, as far as they were concerned, we could only live in the
+happy memories of the past, buoyed up by hopes and aspirations as to the
+future.
+
+Experiencing fine weather, the anchors were dropped on the third day in
+the snug little harbour of Berehaven, in Bantry Bay. The object of this
+visit was to obtain our last supply of fresh meat, and our last budget
+of letters from home. A farewell ramble on shore amongst green fields
+and picturesque little farmhouses, where we were regaled with delicious
+fresh milk, was also enjoyed, and a visit paid to some Druidical remains
+near the long straggling village of Castletown.
+
+And here, amongst the long green grass and by the side of clear rippling
+rivulets, we gathered the last flowers of spring that would gladden our
+eyes until after our return to our native shore. Carefully were these
+floral treasures hoarded until an opportunity offered of transmitting
+them to dear friends at home. It is related of one officer, who was so
+fortunate as to gather several sprigs of "forget-me-not," and whose home
+ties were, perhaps, not so attractive as those of others, that he
+offered to barter small tufts of this precious little plant for a bottle
+of beer, or a pot of cocoa and milk, the two latter articles being
+excessively scarce on board the Arctic ships, and proportionately
+valuable.
+
+On the 2nd of June, the day following their arrival, the little squadron
+once more put to sea. From that date the receipt of all letters ceased.
+No more telegrams; no loving missives; all intelligence from home must
+come to an end. We could live only for the future, and pray for a happy
+and speedy return. Before nightfall the high and rugged coast of
+Ireland had sunk below the eastern horizon, leaving nothing visible on
+the apparently boundless ocean but our three ships as they were lazily
+rocked by the long rolling swell of the broad Atlantic.
+
+  "The vessel gently made her liquid way;
+   The cloven billows flashed from off her prow,
+   In furrows formed by that majestic plough;
+   The waters with their world were all before."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.
+
+
+  "Now from the sight of land, our galleys move;
+   With only seas around, and skies above.
+   When o'er our heads descends a cloud of rain,
+   And night with sable clouds involves the main,
+   The ruffling winds the foaming billows raise,
+   The scattered fleet is forced to several ways.
+   . . . . . . . . . . And from our shrouds
+   We view a rising land like distant clouds,
+   The mountain tops confirm the pleasing sight."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+The next morning we found that on leaving England we had also left
+behind bright sunshine and blue skies, and in their place gloomy grey
+clouds were spread over us, while rain fell sullenly through the murky
+air. This, with head winds, was our normal condition for many days.
+Steam was occasionally raised during any lengthened periods of calm; but
+the report from the engineer that steam was ready was, as a rule,
+followed by a report from deck that a breeze was springing up, but
+invariably from an adverse quarter.
+
+On the 5th of June, in order to expedite our movements, the "Valorous"
+received permission to ignore the presence of a senior officer and make
+the best of her way to Disco; the "Alert" and "Discovery" continuing
+their course together.
+
+We were not many days together at sea before we discovered the good
+qualities of our ship's company. There was a willingness about them that
+could not fail to be appreciated, whilst the thorough good feeling that
+seemed to exist was highly satisfactory. As a proof of the desire of
+each one to assist his neighbour, it may not be out of place to mention
+that the petty officers of the "Alert," a day or two after leaving
+harbour, requested permission to take turns with the able seamen in
+steering the ship, a duty from which, by their position, they are
+usually exempt. It need hardly be said their wish was immediately
+gratified.
+
+During the passage our medical staff was busily engaged in ascertaining
+the physical capacities of every individual member of the expedition.
+These experiments were by some jokingly resented as an unauthorized
+system of mental and bodily torture. Every one's age was carefully
+noted; height and weight accurately ascertained; dimensions round the
+chest measured; and by means of an instrument called a spirometer the
+capacity of the chest was also obtained; a clinical thermometer was
+inserted into the mouth and kept there for an apparently interminable
+time for the purpose of ascertaining the temperature of the blood. The
+treatment we were subjected to in the cause of science was thus
+described by one whose acquaintance with the Royal Navy was only of a
+few days' standing: "I was unceremoniously laid hold of and measured,
+forced into a chair and weighed, was compelled to answer the most
+impertinent questions regarding my age and connections; a horrid
+instrument was kept in my mouth for an hour or more, and I was forced to
+blow into a machine until not a breath of wind was left in my body!"
+The results of all these experiments were duly registered, the intention
+being to compare them with a similar examination on the return of the
+expedition, in order to ascertain the effects of an Arctic life upon the
+physical development of our bodies.
+
+The appetites of the officers, rendered doubly keen by the fresh sea
+air, were so inordinate as to cause serious anxiety in the mind of our
+worthy caterer, who was fearful that the allowance of provisions would
+never last the specified time, at the rate they were then being
+consumed.
+
+From the fifth day after leaving port lime juice was regularly issued to
+every officer and man in the expedition. Being considered an
+indispensable antiscorbutic, it was essential that precautions should be
+adopted to ensure the certainty of each man drinking it daily. It was
+therefore the practice to serve it out on the quarter-deck every
+forenoon in the presence of an officer. This was never omitted during
+the whole period that our expedition was absent from England. With one
+or two exceptions the lime juice was drunk with pleasure by the men, and
+the exceptions were gradually educated, by taking it in small
+quantities, until their dislike was cured.
+
+In consequence of the limited stowage capacity on board, the officers
+were unable to provide themselves with a large stock of beer. A
+considerable quantity of wine and spirits, however, was laid in; but as
+an anticipated absence of three years had to be provided for, we were
+restricted to an allowance of two glasses of sherry per diem, a glass of
+port or madeira once a week, and a bottle of brandy or whiskey about
+every fourteen or fifteen days. On birthdays or fête days we were also
+indulged in a glass of port wine after dinner.
+
+Ten hogsheads of Allsopp's ale, brewed especially for the Arctic
+Expedition, were provided by Government and formed part of the ship's
+stores. It was grand stuff--"strong enough," as one of the men observed,
+"to make our hair curl!"
+
+We were not destined to enjoy fine weather long, and our passage across
+the Atlantic was by no means a pleasant or a comfortable one. Gale
+followed after gale. If they had only blown from the right quarter we
+should have been happy, but we had no such luck, they were sure to come
+ahead!
+
+What a lively ship was the "Alert"! making it utterly impossible to keep
+anything in its place. It was decidedly annoying, one day, when I
+entered my cabin to find my nice smart crimson table-cloth drenched with
+ink; but it was no use repining, and I could only exclaim, with Lord
+Dorset--
+
+  "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,
+   Are tumbled up and down at sea."
+
+Liveliness was not her only peculiarity, she was likewise excessively
+wet, and although battened down carefully it was impossible to keep the
+water from going below. To those who are uninitiated in nautical terms
+it must be explained that "battening down" means the careful closing and
+covering with a tarpaulin of every skylight and hatchway, in order to
+prevent the water from finding its way below. In spite, however, of
+these precautions, it is excessively difficult to keep the lower deck of
+a small ship dry during heavy weather.
+
+On the 13th it was blowing furiously with a terrific sea, and we were
+compelled to "lay-to" under very reduced canvas. During the night a
+large steamer, supposed to be bound for Quebec, passed close to us, so
+close indeed that we were compelled to burn blue lights in order to
+denote our position, so as to avoid collision.
+
+On the same night a heavy sea struck us, and washed away our starboard
+whale boat. Our consort also suffered the same loss. Nearly all our
+fowls, which were in hen-coops on the upper deck, were drowned; only two
+escaping! Fresh meat being scarce the manner of their death did not
+prevent their appearance on our table for some days. This gale had the
+effect of dispersing our little squadron, nor did we again assemble
+together until our arrival at Disco.
+
+No sooner had we recovered from the effects of one gale, than we were
+assailed by another. Our only consolation was, the very poor one of
+trying to believe that these storms would eventually be the means of
+assisting us in our passage through Melville Bay, by breaking up the ice
+and blowing it out of Davis Straits!
+
+The discomforts entailed by the perpetual bad weather did not in any way
+check the ardour of some of the officers in their praiseworthy
+endeavours to add to the scientific collections of the expedition. It is
+related, but I will not vouch for the authenticity of the story, that on
+one occasion, when the ship was labouring heavily, a huge sea washed on
+board, finding its way down through the skylight into the ward-room,
+where it splashed about from side to side with every roll of the ship.
+An officer, a most zealous and enthusiastic collector in all branches
+of natural history, being in bed at the time, thought that he detected
+by the dim light of a lantern some interesting, and perhaps unknown,
+specimens of zoology in the water. His landing net was immediately
+called into requisition, and, from his bed, he succeeded in fishing up
+some of these supposed wonderful organisms. The microscope was instantly
+produced for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of his find, when,
+to his great disappointment, he discovered they were simply grains of
+buckwheat--part of the stock that had been laid in for our unfortunate
+fowls!
+
+Our progress was tardy. On more than one occasion we were actually
+farther off Cape Farewell, the point of land we were striving to make,
+than on the day previous!
+
+As we approached Davis Straits, speculations were rife as to when and
+where we should meet our first ice. The greatest eagerness was shown by
+all on board to become acquainted with the enemy whose fastnesses we
+were preparing to attack and from which we hoped to return victorious.
+
+On the 25th of June, being still at some distance to the southward of
+Cape Farewell, a vessel was sighted steering in the opposite direction
+to ourselves. We passed at too great a distance to avail ourselves of
+such a favourable opportunity of sending letters to England, though
+there were many on board who showed an intense anxiety to communicate.
+We suspected, and our reasoning proved correct, that this would be the
+last vessel we should see for many a long day, and she was consequently
+watched with a great deal of interest. She was, in all probability, a
+homeward bound Peterhead vessel laden with _cryolite_. The cryolite is
+a rare mineral and the sole one which has become an article of trade in
+Greenland. It is found only in one single spot called Ivigtut in 61° 10´
+N., imbedded like a massive body in the granitic rock, and not in veins
+or strata. In 1857 a licence was granted to a private company for
+working the cryolite, and in the first nine years 14,000 tons were
+exported in 80 ship-loads. During the next nine years the total export
+amounted to 70,000 tons. Cryolite is converted by a chemical process
+into soda and an alumina unequalled as regards purity and fitness for
+the art of dyeing.[1]
+
+As we neared the waters of Davis Straits, whales were observed in great
+numbers. They were principally what are called by the whalers
+"bottle-noses." This species of cetacean is the _Hyperoodon rostratus_,
+and is from twenty to twenty-six feet long, with teeth in the lower jaw.
+The "bottle-noses" are seldom sought and captured by the whalers owing
+to the small amount of oil that they yield, not more than a few
+hundred-weight of blubber being derived from each one of this species. A
+dead whale of the "right" or "Greenland" sort was also passed. What a
+prize for a whaler this would have been; worth about £1,000! but of no
+value whatever to us, so it was allowed to float by untouched. How the
+mouths of our ice quarter-masters, all hailing from those essentially
+whaling ports Dundee and Peterhead, watered as they beheld what by them
+would have undoubtedly been considered a god-send! The evident look of
+wonder, not unmixed with contempt, that showed itself upon their
+countenances was truly ludicrous when they found that we were about to
+pass so valuable a prize unheeded. This fish--for all "right" whales
+(_Balæna mysticetus_) are denominated "fish" by those engaged in their
+capture--had probably been struck by some whaler and, having succeeded
+in evading its persecutors, had since died of its wounds; or else it had
+been killed by the inveterate enemy of the whale the _Orca gladiator_,
+or "grampus," sometimes called "sword-fish," which pursues and harasses
+these harmless unoffending leviathans of the deep whenever opportunities
+offer. The rorqual, or "finner" (_Physalus antiquorum_), was also seen;
+it is easily distinguished from the right whale by the dorsal fin
+peculiar to this cetacean, and from which it derives its name. The
+rorquals are seldom captured, great difficulty being experienced in
+killing these huge monsters, which are frequently known to measure as
+much as ninety feet in length. Scoresby mentions one measuring one
+hundred and twenty feet. Great as is their size, however, the amount of
+blubber to be obtained from them is very insignificant. They feed upon
+cod-fish (as many as eight or nine hundred have been found in the
+stomach of one of these whales) and are constantly seen off the south
+and west coast of Greenland.
+
+A falling temperature on the 27th of June, and a peculiar light blink
+along the horizon, gave us due notice of the immediate proximity of ice.
+As the weather was thick and foggy extra precautions were adopted in
+order to guard against coming into serious collision with any icebergs,
+for, however beautiful these floating islands of ice may be during
+bright clear weather, they are dangerous and formidable foes when near
+and unseen.
+
+True to the warning received, an iceberg was shortly afterwards
+sighted, and by 4 P.M. the ship was steaming through loose detached
+fragments of heavy floe ice.
+
+It is impossible to describe the excitement that prevailed on board on
+this first introduction of many among us to that icy world in which we
+afterwards lived for fifteen months. To me it gave rise to reminiscences
+of old times, but to the uninitiated it was an exciting scene, and was
+gazed upon with intense interest.
+
+The officer of the watch, desirous of having the honour of making the
+ship first touch ice, and being also under the impression that a reward
+of a bottle of champagne would be given to him who should first succeed
+in doing so, steered straight for a heavy piece nearly submerged. His
+efforts were crowned with success, but they were also accompanied by a
+gentle admonition that for the future he should be a little more careful
+of her Majesty's property, and avoid all such fragments as were likely
+to knock a hole in the bows of the ship.
+
+On the following morning we sighted the high, bold, and snow-capped
+hills in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation. This headland was so
+called by that sturdy navigator, brave old John Davis, during his first
+voyage of discovery in the year 1585. In his quaint manner he describes
+"the land being very high and full of mightie mountaines all covered
+with snowe, no viewe of wood, grasse, or earth to be seene, and the
+shore for two leages into the sea so full of yce as that no shipping
+cold by any meanes come neere the same. The lothsome viewe of the shore,
+and irksome noyse of the yce was such as that it bred strange conceipts
+among us, so that we supposed the place to be wast and voyd of any
+sencible or vegitable creatures, whereupon I called the same
+Desolation."
+
+Icebergs were now constantly seen, some being of very considerable
+dimensions, and looming in the distance like real islands. As one of our
+men wittily remarked on seeing his first iceberg, it reminded him
+strongly of the Isle of Wight (white)!!
+
+The streams of ice through which the vessel was navigated were composed
+of fragments of heavy pack ice, that had in all probability drifted down
+the east coast of Greenland, and had been swept round Cape Farewell.
+They were of very deep flotation, and great care had to be taken in
+steering the ship through, so as to avoid striking these pieces more
+than was absolutely necessary; so heavily laden was the ship, that the
+force of the blows in some instances was very seriously felt.
+
+[Illustration: SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE.]
+
+Seals were seen basking lazily and dreamily on the ice, or following in
+our wake, staring inquisitively at us with their large round eyes,
+looking for all the world like human beings. The fabulous merman and
+mermaiden seemed to us easily accounted for. The seals observed were of
+two descriptions--namely, the _Pagomys foetidus_, or "floe-rat;" and the
+_Pagophilus Groenlandicus_, the "saddle-back," or common Greenland seal.
+
+Birds, common to these regions, hovered around, following us for days
+together and breaking the solitude that surrounded us with their joyous
+and gladsome presence.
+
+The 1st of July was a beautiful, bright, clear, sunny day, and to us was
+doubly welcome after the continuous bad weather which until now had been
+our lot. Not a ripple disturbed the calm surface of the sea as it lay
+blue and gleaming in the sunshine. Here and there a few small patches of
+ice reminded us of our proximity to the Arctic circle, while a certain
+sharp-bracing crispness in the air, together with a rather low
+temperature, served to assure us that the high snow-covered land in the
+distance was in reality "Greenland's icy mountains"--no hymnal myth as
+supposed by many, but grand ranges, devoid of all verdure, wrapped in
+their snowy mantle, and rising to an altitude of from two to three
+thousand feet above the level of the sea, a majestic and sublime
+reality.
+
+By noon we were off the little Danish settlement of Fiskernaes, and
+shortly afterwards passed that of Godthaab, but at too great a distance
+to make out the buildings or any signs of inhabitants. It was at
+Godthaab that Hans Egede landed on July 3rd, 1721, with his wife and
+children, and commenced his noble and disinterested labour of love among
+the Eskimos. The missionary institutions founded by Hans Egede and the
+Moravians have gradually incorporated the whole population of Greenland
+into Christian communities.
+
+The appearance of this part of the coast of Greenland was very striking,
+especially to those who were strangers to Arctic scenery. The mountains,
+with their peaks so pointed as scarcely to admit of the snow resting on
+their steep and almost precipitous sides, intersected by grand fiords
+and gorges penetrating for miles into the interior, formed a magnificent
+landscape.
+
+To the great relief and joy of all, we were on this day rejoined by our
+consort the "Discovery," who, like ourselves, had been roughly handled
+by the tempestuous weather since we lost sight of her in the Atlantic.
+
+Expecting to pass over the "Torske" banks, the dredge was prepared, and
+fishing lines served out; every one busy stretching and fitting their
+lines, and smacking their lips over an anticipated dinner of fresh cod
+and halibut. Soundings in thirty fathoms having been obtained on one of
+these banks, the ship was stopped and permission given to fish.
+Immediately fifty or sixty fishing lines were over the side; but,
+although our eager fishermen persevered for a couple of hours, no
+capture rewarded their patience. The "wily cod" remained sullen at the
+bottom, and could not even be induced to "nibble."
+
+The dredge was also put over, and hauled in with unimportant results,
+only a few echinoderms being obtained.
+
+During the night an iceberg of curious shape was passed. When first seen
+it was reported as a sail; on approaching it a little nearer it assumed
+the appearance of a huge column-shaped basaltic rock, and then that of
+a lighthouse; for some time it was really believed to be the former.
+
+On the 4th of July the Arctic circle was crossed. From this date, for
+some weeks, we were to have continuous day. The nights had for some time
+past been getting gradually shorter: now they had ceased
+altogether--candles and lamps were no longer necessary, bright sunlight
+reigned paramount.
+
+Two days afterwards the expedition was safely anchored in the bay of
+Lievely, off the little Danish settlement of Godhavn. Although small, it
+is the most important establishment in the Inspectorate of North
+Greenland, for here resides the Royal Inspector, who controls, with
+absolute authority, the large mixed population of Danes and Eskimos who
+inhabit this the most northern civilized land in the world.
+
+A salute of nine guns, from a small battery of three diminutive
+specimens of ordnance, welcomed our arrival, the smoke from which had
+scarcely blown away before Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, came on
+board, anxious to offer assistance, and desirous of extending the
+hospitalities of his house to the members of the expedition.
+
+Nothing could be more kind than the reception accorded us by the
+inhabitants of this little settlement. Their sole desire was to please
+and aid us in every way, and we were soon firm and fast friends with the
+innocent and simple-minded residents.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] See Dr. Rink's "Greenland," p. 79.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.
+
+
+  "Behold I see the haven nigh at hand,
+   To which I meane my wearie course to bend;
+   Vere the maine shete and beare up with the land,
+   The which afore is fayrly to be kend,
+   And seemeth safe from stormes that may offend."
+
+     SPENSER.
+
+It was with a very pleasing sensation of relief that we found the ship
+once more at rest, after thirty-four days of such knocking about as is
+seldom experienced at sea for so long a time without a break. The
+rolling and pitching to which a small ship is subjected in a heavy sea
+are never altogether agreeable, and the quiet and repose of a snug
+well-protected harbour are welcomed even by the "veriest old sea-dog."
+But, although free from the turmoil of the "angry waste of waters," our
+short stay at Godhavn can scarcely be called a period of rest. Much had
+to be done, coals had to be taken on board, and a nondescript quantity
+of stores and provisions received from the "Valorous" and stowed away.
+
+The days were long, however. We had arrived in the region where the
+midnight sun shone almost as brightly and gave as much light as at
+noonday; and if, in consequence, the men were kept longer at work than
+they otherwise would have been, they felt themselves amply compensated
+for their extra labour by the indulgence of a run on shore in the
+evening, and an open-air dance with the dusky and light-hearted beauties
+of the land.
+
+[Illustration: ESKIMO WOMEN.]
+
+Never did the deck of a man-of-war present such an untidy and confused
+appearance as ours did after receiving the last cask from the
+"Valorous." Casks and cases lay higgledy-piggledy amongst coals and
+ropes. Such a scene as our upper deck presented would have been
+sufficient to drive a smart first lieutenant distracted. We were,
+however, all much too practical to think of appearances, our sole
+thought was to be provided with enough of everything to guard against
+all accidents. Between decks was a repetition of the scene above, and it
+was with the greatest difficulty we could move from one part of the ship
+to the other. To add to the pleasing state of the vessel twenty-four
+Eskimo dogs--the number was afterwards augmented to thirty--were
+received on board, to be used in our sledging operations. Such a howling
+lot! No sooner did they arrive than a regular battle ensued, and we were
+compelled for some days to tie up a few of the most pugnacious, in order
+to secure anything like peace.
+
+This state of affairs, namely, the incessant fighting and squabbling
+amongst the dogs, continued until one had gained the acknowledged
+supremacy by thrashing the whole pack. This happens in all
+well-regulated dog communities. The conqueror is henceforth styled the
+"king" dog; he rules his subjects with despotic sway, frequently
+settling a quarrel between a couple of pugilistic disputants, reserving
+for himself the best of everything in the shape of food, the other dogs
+yielding their tit-bits with cringing servility, exerting a complete
+mastery over his canine subjects, and exacting from them the most abject
+homage. The dogs were kept as much as possible in the fore part of the
+ship, and soon became great favourites with the men.
+
+To take charge of this unruly pack, we obtained the services, through
+the kindness and assistance of Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, of a
+native Eskimo, who with his gun and kayak was duly installed on board in
+the capacity of dog-driver and interpreter. He rejoiced in the name of
+Frederic, and had the reputation of being a keen and successful hunter.
+Although he could not boast of good looks, his bright cheerful face and
+unvarying good temper soon made him a friend to all on board.
+
+The novelty of a never-ending day, for the first time experienced by so
+many in the expedition, sadly interfered with the natural time for rest
+and sleep. Long past midnight would the sounds of music and mirth be
+heard from the shore, as the dances were kept up with unabated vigour;
+while shrieks of laughter and merriment would be heard afloat, as the
+officers, indulging in aquatic tastes, would be seen rowing races in
+small collapsible boats, or trying their skill for the first time in the
+frail kayak. For the management of these latter fairy-like canoes great
+caution is required--indeed, it is hardly possible to manage them
+without much practice.
+
+Our first lieutenant was, however, an exception to this rule, for owing
+to experience acquired in canoes in various parts of the world, he
+succeeded in the management of the kayak so admirably as to excite the
+surprise and admiration of the natives. W----, another of our officers,
+not to be outdone by his mess-mate, also tried his skill in one of these
+little barks, but he had not paddled many yards before it capsized,
+leaving him head down in the water, with his legs firmly jammed in the
+boat. He would undoubtedly have been drowned before assistance could
+arrive had he not shown a wonderful degree of presence of mind. So
+securely was he fixed in his kayak, that it was only by unbuttoning his
+braces and getting out of his trousers that he succeeded in extricating
+himself from his dangerous predicament, leaving that article of dress
+inside the kayak!
+
+In spite of the multifarious duties connected with the ship, which kept
+every one fully occupied, the pursuit of science was not neglected.
+Several complete series of observations were obtained for the
+determination of the magnetic force. Photographs were taken, and
+geological and botanical collections were extensively made, whilst a
+boat with the first lieutenant and our energetic naturalist proceeded
+some little distance up the coast to a place called Ovifak for the
+purpose of obtaining information regarding some "meteorites" reported to
+have fallen there.
+
+The desire of "stretching one's legs" after being cooped up on board
+ship for so long was universally felt, and officers and men alike
+enjoyed a scramble over the lofty volcanic cliffs which overlie the
+gneiss in this part of the island of Disco.
+
+The difficulty of the ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, a range of hills
+about two thousand feet in height, situated on the northern side of the
+harbour, was amply compensated for by the view from its summit. Landing
+in a pretty little bay, in which lay the remains of an old steam whaler,
+the "Wildfire," that had fallen a victim to the ice some years ago, and
+emerging from the rather dense, though stunted, vegetation that grows
+luxuriantly at the base of these hills, the way led over precipitous
+basaltic cliffs, until by dint of hard climbing the snow-clad heights
+were reached.
+
+The accomplishment of this task, however, was both arduous and perilous,
+in consequence of the action of the frost on the rocks of which the
+cliffs were composed; for on the slightest touch they often crumbled
+away, rolling with a mass of _débris_ many hundreds of feet to the
+bottom.
+
+From the summit a glorious scene was revealed to us. The mainland of
+Greenland, that land so "wonderfull mountaynous, whose mountaynes all
+the yeare long are full of yce and snowe," was distinctly brought to our
+view, whilst immediately at our feet was the picturesque settlement of
+Godhavn, and the three vessels, resembling miniature toy-ships, lying at
+anchor in its snug little harbour. The Whale-fish Islands, a group in
+Disco Bay, lay spread out as it were on a map. Hundreds of icebergs
+dotted the perfectly placid sea, and beyond them we could plainly
+discern the great ice fiord of Jacobshavn with its gigantic discharging
+glacier behind, and the mouth of its fiord almost choked with huge
+fragments of ice, children of that same glacier. At brief intervals a
+noise as of thunder or distant artillery announced the disruption, or
+creation, of one of these wonderful islands of ice.
+
+We were not, however, allowed to enjoy this glorious scene in quietness.
+Our pleasure was marred by the attacks of swarms of musquitoes. These
+irritating insects assailed us on first landing, and persecuted us
+incessantly until we were again afloat.
+
+  "A cloud of cumbrous gnattes doe us molest,
+   All striving to infixe their feeble stinges,
+   That from their noyance we nowhere can reste."
+
+It was indeed hard to meet so far in the icy north our implacable
+enemies of the tropics!
+
+The descent was as dangerous, though perhaps not so laborious as the
+ascent. Occasionally we were able to avail ourselves of patches of snow,
+down which we slid, much to the astonishment and discomfiture of my dog
+Nellie, who was at a loss to understand the means of our rapid progress,
+and who rushed down after us barking frantically.
+
+We were excessively fortunate in our weather during our brief stay at
+Godhavn. We rejoiced in ceaseless sunshine, which lit up the surrounding
+hills with a golden light, throwing deep dark shadows into the valleys
+and ravines by which they were intersected, whilst the bright rays of
+the sun glittering on the ice-strewn surface of the sea formed a scene
+at once novel and sublime.
+
+Our short stay at Godhavn will, I think, always be regarded with
+pleasure by the members of the expedition. Nothing could exceed the
+kindness we received and the hospitality that was extended to us by the
+good people on shore, who appeared to vie with each other in their
+endeavours to render our visit an agreeable one. Nor was it only from
+the inhabitants that we received so much kindness. The captain,
+officers, and indeed I may say the ship's company of the "Valorous" were
+unremitting in their exertions to provide us with every necessary that
+it was in their power to supply, for the furtherance of the arduous
+service in which we were so soon to be engaged, depriving themselves of
+many things that they thought would add to our comfort.
+
+Although the Eskimos, according to Dr. Rink, and we can have no better
+authority respecting the natives of Greenland, have a pretty fair talent
+for writing and drawing, scarcely any traces of sculpture belonging to
+earlier times remain, with the exception of a few small images cut out
+in wood or bone, which had probably served children as playthings.
+Notwithstanding the want of means for handing down to posterity and
+retaining historical events amongst this interesting people, many
+traditions and legends have been preserved. Among the number is one
+relating to this island of Disco. It was supposed to have been situated
+off the southern coast of Greenland, and in consequence of its cutting
+off the inhabitants of the mainland from the open sea, a great dislike
+was entertained for it; for, to live comfortably, an Eskimo must be in
+the vicinity of the sea, so as to follow his usual avocation of seal
+hunting.
+
+The story relates that two old men, having set their wise heads
+together, determined to attempt the removal of the island with the aid
+of magic. A third old gentleman, however, desired to retain it in its
+position. The first two, launching their kayaks, fastened the hair of a
+little child to the island wherewith to tow it by; whilst the other,
+from the shore, attempted to keep it back by means of a sealskin thong.
+Desperately did the two kayakers labour at their paddles in their
+endeavours to move the island, chanting their spells as they tugged at
+the hair. But as resolutely did the third man hold on to his thong,
+straining every nerve to render their exertions abortive; suddenly, to
+his chagrin, the thong parted, and the island floated off, and was towed
+away triumphantly to the northward, where it was deposited in its
+present position.
+
+Another tradition says it was removed from Baal's River to its present
+site by a famous angekok, or magician, and that the harbour of Godhavn
+is the actual hole in the island to which the tow rope was fastened.
+
+On the afternoon of July the 15th, amidst much firing of guns and
+dipping of flags, the little squadron steamed out of the harbour,
+threading its way through innumerable icebergs, and passing along the
+high snow-clad hills that adorn the southern end of the island of Disco,
+proceeded towards the settlement of Ritenbenk, at which we arrived the
+following morning. The scenery as we approached the anchorage was truly
+magnificent. Lofty hills encompassed us on either hand, down whose steep
+sides the water was pouring in rapid cascades, produced by the thawing
+of the snow on their summits. How full of life and joy appeared these
+bright sparkling streams as they seemed to chase each other in wanton
+sport, skipping from rock to crag in their headlong career, until lost
+in one large sheet of glistening spray that poured over the edge of a
+precipitous cliff into the clear still water at its base!
+
+Thousands of birds congregate along the inaccessible ledges of these
+cliffs, perched in such precise order, and having such a uniformity of
+colour, that they resemble regiments of soldiers drawn up in readiness
+to defend their fortresses from the attacks of ruthless invaders. But
+fresh food was at a premium, and the wretched looms were doomed to
+suffer a long assault at the hands of our energetic sportsmen.
+
+Other and more weighty matters also required our attention. We were to
+bid farewell to the "Valorous" on the following morning. And with her we
+should lose the last connecting link with home.
+
+Letters had to be hurriedly finished, and then we had to bid adieu to
+one to whose untiring energy the departure of the expedition was due,
+who had been mainly instrumental in obtaining the sanction of Government
+for its dispatch, and who, leaving the comforts of a home life, had
+accompanied us thus far on our journey, sharing our discomforts, but
+adding to our knowledge from his rich fund of information, and
+enlivening our mess-table with his conversation and presence.
+
+We felt, whilst he was on board, that we were not quite separated from
+the civilized world. His departure made a chasm that it was difficult
+for some time to bridge over, but the memory of him lived long amongst
+us, and served to recall many a pleasant and happy hour.
+
+At four o'clock on the morning of the 17th the "Valorous" steamed away
+from us on her way to the coal quarries on the north side of the island
+of Disco, and, two hours after, the "Discovery" and ourselves put to
+sea, having increased the number of our dogs by purchasing several from
+the natives at Ritenbenk.
+
+The scenery in the Waigat, a strait separating the island of Disco from
+the mainland of Greenland, is very grand. The channel was rendered
+almost impassable from the number of icebergs of every fantastic form
+and shape that lay scattered about, and which, although adding
+materially to the beauty of the scene, made the passage one of no little
+intricacy: indeed we very narrowly escaped losing all our boats on one
+side of the ship by shaving a large iceberg a little too closely!
+
+On one side were the high snow-clad hills of Disco, intersected by deep
+and narrow ravines, whilst on the opposite side was a bold and lofty
+coast with precipitous headlands ending in needle-shaped peaks and
+separated by glaciers and fiords. Passing the beautiful large
+discharging glacier of Itivdliarsuk, many minor ones opened to our view
+as we sailed slowly past, presenting a panorama such as it would be
+impossible to depict faithfully on canvas.
+
+Several remarkable red patches, apparently of basalt, were observed on
+the bare gneiss hills in the vicinity of Point Kardluk, which is noted
+for the large quantity of vegetable fossils that have been found there,
+and close to the petrified forest of Atanekerdluk.
+
+Catching sight of the "Valorous" at anchor, busily engaged in procuring
+coal, we endeavoured to reach her, for the purpose of sending a few
+stray letters that had been inadvertently left behind; but a thick fog
+overtaking us, we were very reluctantly compelled to relinquish all idea
+of communicating, and had to be satisfied with reading the signal of
+"farewell" and "good wishes" that she threw out. It was fortunately
+distinguished before the vessels were effectually concealed from each
+other by an impervious fog which crept over the surface of the sea,
+hiding everything around us, though high above our heads the mountain
+tops were clearly to be seen.
+
+So dense did it become that we were, after a time, obliged to make the
+ships fast to icebergs to await a more favourable opportunity of
+advancing.
+
+Whilst attempting to secure the ships an alarming catastrophe occurred.
+The boat had been dispatched containing three men with the necessary
+implements, such as an ice drill and anchor, for making the vessel fast.
+
+As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivered the berg, to our
+horror, split in two with a loud report, one half with one of our men on
+it toppling completely over, whilst the other half swayed rapidly
+backwards and forwards. On this latter piece was another of our men, who
+was observed with his heels in the air, the violent agitation of the
+berg having precipitated him head foremost into a rent or crevasse. The
+water alongside was a mass of seething foam and spray; but curious to
+relate, the boat with the third man in it was in no way injured. They
+were all speedily rescued from their perilous position and brought on
+board, sustaining no further harm than that inflicted by a cold bath.
+Their escape appeared miraculous.
+
+By the next morning we were through the Waigat Strait. Much to our
+disappointment the weather remained thick, and we were in consequence
+unable to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand scenery to
+be found at the mouth of the Omenak fiord, which possesses some of the
+largest discharging glaciers in Greenland.
+
+On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an anchor off the Danish
+settlement of Proven.
+
+The harbour, which is small, is formed by two islands. On the western
+side of the easternmost of the two is situated the quaintest of quaint
+little settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the Governor's
+residence, the storehouse, boiling down establishment, smithy, about two
+other wooden habitations, and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it
+boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The Governor, who, in
+his endeavour to be civil, had boarded us before anchoring, apologized
+for not saluting, saying "that though he had the guns he had no
+artillerists." Although it was midnight before we arrived, the
+inhabitants were lining the side of the hill as we entered, the white
+boots and fur jackets and short trousers of the women affording a very
+novel though picturesque scene.
+
+The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being disturbed in their
+slumbers, set up a fearful howling, which, being answered by the dogs in
+both ships, produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert. The
+natives have a saying, when the dogs make this noise, "that they are
+holding their parliament." This is hardly flattering to the Greenland
+senate!
+
+During our short stay at this place a rough survey of the harbour was
+taken, and a number of scientific observations were made.
+
+Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the reception met with
+from all on shore. In the Governor's good wife I recognized an old
+acquaintance whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a former occasion
+during a cruise in a whaler to these regions.
+
+Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of Hans Hendrik, an
+Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter. This man had been employed in the same
+capacity in all the American expeditions to Smith's Sound, and was an
+invaluable acquisition.
+
+Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during our stay, dancing to
+their hearts' content.
+
+My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of admiration amongst the
+inhabitants, one man especially being very pertinacious in his request
+that she might be presented to him. On inquiring to what use he would
+put her, I was informed that my faithful companion would be converted
+into food for the man's oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black
+curly coat would serve to adorn his wife's person. Nellie, I think, had
+some notion of the designs on her life and skin, as in future she always
+regarded with disfavour not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their
+dogs and everything belonging to them.
+
+Leaving Proven on the evening of the 21st of July, we arrived on the
+same night off a remarkable headland called "Sanderson, his hope." It
+was so named by old John Davis, after his friend and patron, Mr. W.
+Sanderson, in 1587, and was the extreme northern point reached by him
+during his third voyage.[1]
+
+This prominent and precipitous cliff is a famous place for looms, as
+those white-breasted guillemots are termed, which are considered such
+rare delicacies on an Arctic table. They are the _Uria Brunnichii_ of
+naturalists, and are numerous in sub-Arctic regions. Their favourite
+breeding-places are along these terraced cliffs, where they assemble in
+large quantities.
+
+Of course so favourable an opportunity of procuring fresh food was not
+to be disregarded. The ships were hove to, and the boats, crammed with
+eager sportsmen, dispatched for the purpose of shooting for the "pot."
+
+Myriads of these birds were congregated along the face of the steep
+precipitous cliffs, in some places almost overhanging, which rose
+abruptly to an altitude of about a thousand feet. Owing, however, to the
+unsteadiness of the boats, caused by the roughness of the sea, our "bag"
+did not realize our anticipations. Many of the birds that were shot
+remained on the inaccessible ledges of the rocks, and were therefore
+lost to us; and many fell into the sea beyond, and were no more seen.
+
+The midnight sun was shining brightly during this _battue_, and we
+returned to the ship, after a couple of hours' sport, the richer by one
+hundred and seventy birds, each equal in weight to a fair-sized duck.
+For the succeeding three or four days we revelled in "loom soup," "loom
+pie," or "roast loom," and looms cooked in every imaginable form. No
+matter how they were served up, they were always pronounced to be
+delicious. Indeed, one of my messmates went so far as to say that he had
+never tasted anything better in his life. In fact, for the purpose of
+thoroughly enjoying a good dinner, a trip to the Arctic regions is
+indispensable!
+
+On the following morning we anchored off Upernivik,[2] the most northern
+settlement but one in Greenland. It is situated on one of the Woman
+Islands, so named by Baffin in 1616. The usual kindness and hospitality
+were extended to us here, as at all the other Danish settlements
+visited. We also received important information concerning the state of
+the ice to the northward, with a tabulated statement of all the
+meteorological observations obtained during the previous winter, a study
+of which would be of the greatest importance to us.
+
+In the evening, taking the "Discovery" in tow, we again put to sea, this
+time finally bidding farewell to civilization. From henceforth our
+energies and our thoughts must turn Polewards.
+
+As the last glimpse of the little church was shut out from our view,
+many a prayer was silently offered to Him in his infinite mercy to
+protect and guide us in our endeavours, and to vouchsafe us a safe
+return again to home and civilization.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] On his return to England he wrote to his friend, saying, "I have
+    been in 73°, finding the sea all open and forty leagues between land
+    and land. The passage (the N.W.) is most probable, the execution
+    easie, as at my coming you shall fully knowe."
+
+  [2] It is sometimes spelt Uppernavik. But Upernivik is the correct
+    form. See Rink, p. 354. It means spring in the Eskimo language.
+    Upernivik is in 72° 48´ N. The most northern Danish station is
+    Tasiusak, in 73° 24´ N.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.
+
+
+  "Embark with me, while I new tracts explore,
+   With flying sails and breezes from the shore.
+   Not that my song, in such a scanty space,
+   So large a subject fully can embrace.
+   Not though I were supplied with iron lungs,
+   A hundred mouths, filled with as many tongues.
+   But steer my vessel with a steady hand,
+   And coast along the shore in sight of land.
+   Nor will I try thy patience with a train
+   Of preface, or what ancient poets feign."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+Threading our way through narrow passages between numerous islands that
+lay to the eastward of Upernivik, and trusting to the knowledge and
+guidance of an Eskimo pilot, we felt at length that we had in reality,
+seen the last for some time, of our fellow men, and that our struggle
+with the almost insuperable difficulties of the frozen north was about
+to commence.
+
+Preparations for an unsuccessful combat with the ice were made, and
+every precaution was adopted necessary to ensure the safety of the men,
+in cases of extreme emergency. The boats were prepared for immediate
+service, each man having his allotted station, so that little or no
+confusion would ensue if the abandonment of the ships should be decided
+upon--an event that was by no means improbable. Ice-saw crews were
+organized in readiness for cutting a dock, in case such a proceeding
+should become necessary for the protection of the vessels. Provisions
+and clothes were so arranged along the upper deck that they could easily
+and readily be thrown out on the ice at a moment's notice. Knapsacks,
+each containing two pairs of blanket wrappers, one pair of hose, one
+pair of stockings, one pair of mitts, one pair of drawers, a Welsh wig,
+a jersey, a comforter, a pair of moccasins, a towel and small piece of
+soap, were packed and placed in some handy position where they could be
+reached without delay. The necessary tackles for lifting the screw and
+unshipping the rudder were provided: in fact every preparation was made
+that could possibly be thought of to guard against accidents and to
+promote success in the forthcoming conflict.
+
+On the morning after leaving Upernivik, on account of a dense fog, it
+was determined to anchor off one of the small islands composing a group
+through which we were passing, in order to wait for finer weather.
+
+Our pilot, getting into his kayak, offered to pioneer us into a little
+bay with which he was intimately acquainted. Being totally unable to
+realize the difference of size between the large unwieldy "Alert" and
+his own frail little bark, and probably imagining that where he was able
+to go in his tiny boat, we also could do the same, he led us close in to
+the land, which, on account of the thick fog, was hidden from our view,
+and we soon had the annoyance of finding our ship hard and fast on
+shore. Fortunately we were going very slow at the time, so that no
+injury was sustained; but we remained immoveable for many hours until
+the flood-tide floated us and enabled us once more to proceed.
+
+The dangers connected with a passage through Melville Bay are now so
+well known to all who have taken any interest in Arctic affairs, or who
+have devoted any time to the perusal of Arctic literature, that it is
+needless for me either to explain or dwell upon them at any length. Many
+a well-equipped ship has been caught in the fatal embrace of this bay.
+What tales of woe and disaster could its icy waters unfold, coupled,
+however, with deeds of heroic daring, endurance, and suffering!
+
+Captain Nares, determining to avoid the ordinary passage through this
+once dreaded bay, the dangers of which in these days of steam have been
+so materially lessened, pushed his ships boldly through what is
+generally termed the "middle ice." This, at such a late season of the
+year, is undoubtedly a wise course; but woe to the unfortunate ship that
+at an earlier period should be caught in this moving pack, and be there
+detained for thirteen or fourteen months, as the little "Fox" was, under
+the command of Sir Leopold McClintock!
+
+If the pack is composed of loose light ice, such as we found it to be,
+rendering a passage through it one of no difficulty, it may also be
+presumed that the ice in Melville Bay at the same time would be of the
+same consistency, thereby also affording an easy and safe passage
+through.
+
+The reason that the passage by Melville Bay is always taken by the
+whalers is the existence of fixed land ice, which is found adhering to
+the shores, and in which it is easy to cut a dock for the preservation
+of the ship if the heavy pack is forced by wind, or otherwise, towards
+it, thereby endangering any vessel that may happen to be between the
+two. Directly the pack moves off the vessel is liberated and proceeds on
+her voyage.
+
+It would be very different if the ship was caught in the pack. Then she
+would, in all probability, be severely handled, and being beset would
+drift to the southward with the ice and thereby lose all the hard-fought
+ground gained with so much labour and fatigue.
+
+One of the most important maxims in ice navigation, which is strictly
+followed out by the whalers, is "stick to the land-ice."
+
+We were certainly extremely fortunate in finding the pack so "loose" as
+to give us little trouble or difficulty in making progress. The ice was
+of a soft "brashy" nature, apparently only of one year's formation, and
+only from one to three feet in thickness. The weather being fine and
+calm, advantage was taken of it to steam full speed, for there was no
+saying how quickly the ice might pack with even a light breeze. The tow
+rope was accordingly cast off, and we proceeded at our highest rate of
+speed with the "Discovery" following close at our heels.
+
+Occasionally our progress would be checked by a stream of ice extending
+across the lane of water through which we were steering; but through
+these obstructions we bored, or charged them at full speed, and thus
+cleared a way. A walrus and a few seals were seen on the ice, but their
+capture did not hold out sufficient inducement to detain the ship.
+
+Very different from the apathy shown on passing these animals was the
+excitement exhibited when a bear, a veritable Polar bear, was seen on
+the ice. Such a rush for rifles and weapons of all descriptions! It was
+the first and only bear seen, and therefore the excitement its presence
+caused was natural. Every one appeared to share in it. Bear-skins were
+certainly on that day at a premium, for all were eager and anxious to
+become the fortunate possessor of such a prize. Master Bruin, however,
+did not reciprocate this feeling, and evinced an equal amount of anxiety
+to retain his nice warm coat.
+
+The engines were immediately stopped, and the boats crammed with
+volunteer hunters. These landing on the ice, advanced upon their quarry
+in skirmishing order, while the ship, steaming round to the opposite
+side of the floe, endeavoured to cut off his retreat. All was
+ineffectual. Bruin's strategic abilities were of too high an order for
+us to cope successfully with him in his own territories, and he escaped.
+Many rounds of ammunition, however, were fired at him both from the
+party on shore and also by those on board the ship, in the faint hope
+that a lucky shot might bring him down. To this day there are many who
+seriously believe that he carried away with him a portion of the bullets
+they so lavishly expended. So keen were some in the ardour and
+excitement of the chase that they rushed on, heedless of the rotten and
+treacherous nature of the ice, until an immersion in the cold water
+brought them to a sense of their danger and compelled them to seek
+refuge on board the ship, wet, cold, and uncomfortable. Many little
+rotges (_Alca alle_) were flitting about from the ice to the water, and
+the beautiful ivory gull (_Larus eburneus_) was also seen for the first
+time.
+
+[Illustration: POLAR BEARS.]
+
+In thirty-four hours from first encountering the ice we reached the
+North Water, and our troubles were for a time at an end. It was an
+unprecedented passage. Only seventy hours from Upernivik to Cape York!
+
+Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a beautifully smooth
+unruffled sea, devoid of all ice, was in front; everything pointed to
+success, and the hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and
+delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost realization of
+their hopes. Large icebergs were around us in every direction; but what
+cared we then for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North Water had
+been reached; our way lay northwards. In a few short days the entrance
+of Smith Sound would be reached, the threshold of the unknown region
+crossed, and then onwards to--where? We did not dare to anticipate, but
+we felt that the first step towards success had been gained, and that we
+had commenced our real work under most propitious circumstances. We
+would not predict, but we determined to deserve, success.
+
+It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation that this "North
+Water" had been so speedily and so successfully reached. Instead of only
+two or three weeks of the navigable season being available for us to
+penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound, owing to our rapid
+passage, we could reckon upon a clear month or five weeks before being
+compelled to secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which, our fuel
+had been very materially saved by this quick run, and this in itself, to
+ships situated as we were, was no unimportant matter.
+
+On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the "Discovery" was ordered
+to proceed shorewards for the purpose of communicating with the natives
+(the Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of inducing one
+of their number, a brother-in-law of Hans, to accompany the expedition;
+the "Alert" in the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands, at
+which latter place the "Discovery" was ordered to rejoin us.
+
+The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of about two miles from
+the shore, was most interesting. The hills along the coast were entirely
+clad with snow, whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far
+back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the everlasting _mer de
+glace_. Numerous glaciers of various sizes, some of them being
+discharging ones, rolled down to the water's edge in one vast icy sheet.
+The width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully seven miles.
+Fragments from these lay scattered along the coast in every direction,
+whilst we had to thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of every
+form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of Beverley, we were able to
+distinguish, in a few small patches, the so-called coloured snow whence
+the name originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of bright
+colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting illustrated work
+describing his voyage to Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this
+colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set at rest. It is an
+alga, the _Protococcus nivalis_.
+
+We did not reach the Cary Islands so soon as we expected, in consequence
+of experiencing a strong S.E. current that had not been anticipated. A
+sudden rise of temperature of the surface water naturally led us to
+suppose that it must be due to the absence of ice, which, raising our
+spirits, made us regard with displeasure any hindrance to our progress.
+
+Arriving off the Cary group early on the morning of the 27th, we were
+detained for a few hours landing a boat with a large depôt of
+provisions, sufficient to sustain 60 men for two months, or 120 men for
+one month. The depôt was placed on the easternmost island, and a large
+cairn was erected on the highest and most prominent point. Here also
+were deposited the last home letters which our friends were destined to
+receive until after our own arrival in England.
+
+The depôt was established as a safeguard for us to fall back upon in
+case of any accident happening to our vessels in Smith Sound. From this
+position it was expected that a party duly provisioned would have little
+difficulty in reaching the northern Greenland settlements, or at any
+rate the simple but hospitable natives of Cape York, who would, it was
+anticipated, afford us protection and assistance. This duty having been
+accomplished, and having been rejoined by our consort, the northward
+course was resumed.[1]
+
+Crossing over to the eastward we steamed along on that beautifully clear
+sunny morning within a short distance of the western shores of
+Greenland. With the exception of icebergs, not a speck of ice was to be
+seen to disturb the smooth glassy surface of the sea. Passing the mouth
+of Whale Sound we made rapid progress northwards, steering between
+Northumberland and Hakluyt Islands, almost under their steep,
+precipitous, and in some places overhanging cliffs; on past Murchison
+Sound with the Crystal Palace glacier ahead, whilst on our port bow was
+easily discernible the opposite coast of Ellesmere Land, with the Prince
+of Wales Mountains, covered with snow or ice, rising above the western
+horizon.
+
+It was indeed a glorious sight as we passed close to this little known
+land, opening out, as we proceeded, its many and large glaciers
+glittering white and radiant in the sunshine, growing, as it were, out
+of the clouds and rolling down grandly towards the sea, until the opaque
+masses plunged sullenly and silently into the deep blue water.
+
+Animal life, so far as the feathered tribes were concerned, appeared in
+abundance. The lively little rotges or little auks (_Alca alle_) were
+seen in frequent clusters diving quickly under water as the ship
+approached. Looms (_Uria Brunnichii_), dovekies (_Uria grylle_), and
+king-ducks (_Somateria spectabilis_), alarmed at our appearance, rose in
+long flights, and circled around us uttering their discordant cries. The
+glaucous gull and the pretty kittiwake (_Larus tridactylus_) soared
+above our heads, whilst occasionally a graceful ivory gull (_Larus
+eburneus_) flapped its way leisurely along, its snowy wings contrasting
+with the background of clear blue sky. Here and there, on small
+fragments of floating ice, were seen huge walruses basking in the golden
+sunshine. Amid such scenes, which to be realized must be seen, the two
+vessels wended their way towards the entrance of Smith Sound, all elated
+with the fair prospect that was before them and hopeful for the future.
+
+At half-past seven on the morning of the 28th of July both ships came to
+an anchor in Hartstene Bay, more commonly known as Port Foulke, the
+harbour in which Dr. Hayes wintered in 1860.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] The Cary Islands consist of a group of eight islands, besides
+    small rocks or islets, and are situated in Baffin Bay, in lat. 76°
+    45´ N. They vary in size from two and a half miles in diameter
+    downwards. They are composed of syenitic and porphyritic granite,
+    overlaid in places with gneiss. They rise to a height of about 400
+    feet above the level of the sea, and possess a luxuriant vegetation,
+    at least for these regions. They are much frequented as breeding
+    places by the eider-ducks and looms.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+SMITH SOUND.
+
+
+  "Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles,
+   On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles.
+   Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow,
+   From wastes that slumber in eternal snow,
+   And waft across the waves' tumultuous roar
+   The wolf's long howl from Oonalaska's shore."
+
+     CAMPBELL.
+
+No sooner were the ships secured and breakfast discussed, than there was
+a regular rush for the shore. Some went for a scramble over the
+neighbouring glacier, named by Dr. Kane, "My brother John's glacier;"
+some went to collect specimens; others to take various scientific
+observations; and others to hunt and shoot--this spot having been found
+wonderfully prolific of game, more especially of reindeer, during Dr.
+Hayes's stay. No signs of any inhabitants were visible. This surprised
+us, as we were fully expecting to meet the natives of the village of
+Etah, situated only a couple of miles from the anchorage. A visit to the
+village during the course of the day proved the huts to be standing, but
+quite deserted. Traces of their having been recently inhabited were
+manifest, and portions of seal and walrus meat were discovered in
+_caches_, as if the migration was only temporary and a return was
+meditated. No other signs, however, of any living human being were
+found.
+
+Leaving to others the exploration of the country in the immediate
+vicinity of the harbour, Captain Nares and myself started, in one of the
+whale-boats, with four men, for the purpose of visiting Life-boat Cove,
+where some of the officers and crew of the "Polaris" spent their second
+winter, 1872-3, and also to search for an iron boat on Littleton Island,
+said to have been left there by Dr. Hayes in 1860.
+
+Sailing round Sunrise Point, we encountered a fresh northerly wind dead
+in our teeth, against which, under oars, we made but slow progress,
+whilst the cold spray flew aft into our faces where it almost froze.
+After about five hours' hard pulling Life-boat Cove was reached, and
+very glad we all were to get on shore and stretch our legs and restore
+the circulation of our blood.
+
+Immediately on landing we met with traces of the late occupants. These
+consisted of a large cairn--which, however, had been demolished by
+others previous to our arrival, probably by the searching expedition
+sent out in the "Tigress" in 1873--a basket lined with tin, and a trunk,
+neither of which contained anything of importance; indeed, their
+contents and the strong odour pervading them convinced us that they were
+now the property of Eskimos. Strolling on a little further, a boat was
+seen, which, although somewhat of European shape, appeared to be of
+Eskimo construction, as it was simply a framework covered with skins;
+yet it was undoubtedly built under a white man's superintendence.
+
+Continuing to advance until we reached the western extreme of the spit
+of land on which we had landed, we conjectured, from the amount of
+_débris_ by which we were surrounded, although no remains of a house
+were visible, that we were on the site of the Americans' winter
+quarters. Trunks, boxes, stoves, pieces of wood, gun-barrels, and odds
+and ends of all descriptions lay strewed about over an area of half a
+square mile--a desolate scene of ruin and misery!
+
+Some of the boxes were marked with the names of their previous owners,
+and contained, amongst other things, books, principally relating to the
+Arctic regions. One trunk contained a few small articles of female
+apparel, such as a lace collar and black veil, and some faded ribbons;
+souvenirs from some fair damsel at home, which had probably, from the
+thoughts their presence created, beguiled many a long and lonely hour
+during the monotonous winter night. Numerous cairns and _caches_, under
+which were deposited lumps of seal blubber, led us to suppose that the
+natives intended returning, especially with such a mine of wealth to
+attract them as an abundance of wood and iron, so invaluable to an
+Eskimo.
+
+Two other boats were also found, constructed in the same rude manner as
+the first. On one was painted, in good large letters, the word MAUMOKPO;
+though what it meant we were at a loss to conceive, but concluded it was
+an Icelandic name.
+
+Two Casella thermometers, marked as low as 130° below zero, were also
+picked up in perfect order. It is to be regretted that these were not
+self-registering maximum and minimum thermometers, as it would have been
+most interesting to have ascertained the greatest amount of heat and
+cold at this spot during a period of more than two years.
+
+Collecting everything that we considered of the least value, such as
+books and instruments, for the purpose of returning them to the United
+States Government, and taking possession of a couple of boats, which we
+thought would prove useful at some of our depôts, we embarked and
+proceeded towards Littleton Island, with our prizes in tow. Diligent
+search was made for the pendulum said to have been left by the "Polaris"
+people, but without success: also for the box chronometers and transit
+instrument, but with a like result. We could only come to the conclusion
+that, if these articles had been left there, somebody had been before
+us. Every cairn and _cache_ was thoroughly examined, and so was every
+nook and crannie within a radius of half a mile from where we imagined
+the house had originally stood. A chronometer-box was picked up, but
+empty.
+
+On landing at Littleton Island a careful search was instituted for
+Hayes's boat, but, although we made the complete circuit of the island,
+we failed to discover any traces of it whatever. At the south-west end
+we erected a cairn on the highest hill, about five or six hundred feet
+above the level of the sea, and obtained a round of angles with the
+theodolite. The view from the top of this hill was very cheering. Cape
+Sabine was distinctly visible; whilst farther to the northward could be
+seen the land about Cape Fraser, with _no signs of ice_! We were,
+however, too wary to indulge to excess in hopeful anticipations, knowing
+full well the vagaries of our capricious enemy, the ice; but still such
+a scene could not but tend to cheer and exhilarate, and send us back to
+our ship with light and buoyant hearts.
+
+It was past midnight before we reached the "Alert." Our sportsmen, we
+found, had been unsuccessful in their endeavours to shoot any reindeer;
+one, however, fell to the rifle of an officer of the "Discovery." Very
+few were seen, and those so wild as to render an approach within range
+no easy matter. Several ducks and a few hares, however, were obtained.
+
+Leaving Port Foulke on the following morning, we crossed over to the
+west side, and erected a large cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella,
+about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. The ascent of this
+headland was both arduous and dangerous. The face of the cliff was very
+precipitous, and it was only by a zig-zag course that it could be
+effected. At one moment the way led over loose shingle, that gave way
+under the feet at every step; at another over a broad patch of frozen
+snow, one false step on whose slippery surface would precipitate one
+many hundred feet below; and at another we were clinging desperately
+with hands and feet to the hard, smooth, syenitic granite rocks, of
+which this cape is composed. Very thankful were we when the summit was
+reached; but much more so when we found ourselves again at its base,
+sound in wind and limb. To add to the difficulties, there was a high
+wind and dense snowstorm.
+
+At a less high elevation, and in a secure niche amongst the rocks, were
+deposited an empty cask and about one hundred and fifty pounds of
+preserved beef. The cask was intended for the reception of any letters
+that might be brought up by a Government ship in the following year, or
+by any enterprising and adventurous whaling captain who should penetrate
+so far in order to bring us news. The provisions were left as a small
+depôt for any sledging party that might be dispatched to the southward.
+The site was marked by a small cairn. Records were left at each of these
+cairns detailing the movements and the prospects of the expedition,
+together with instructions regarding our letters, should any be brought
+thus far.
+
+Some beautiful little yellow poppies were gathered on the slopes and
+crests of the hill, whilst the draba and saxifrage were found growing in
+profusion.
+
+The navigation of these icy seas is most uncertain! Within twenty-four
+hours of the time that, from the summit of Littleton Island, we had been
+cheered by the view of an apparently open sea free of ice, and extending
+in our imagination for miles to the northward, we were battling with the
+pack, consisting of large floes and loose broken-up fields, that
+extended on both sides of us and as far north as we could see. From this
+period our troubles commenced; from this date our progress was one
+endless and unceasing struggle with the ice: ever on the watch, and
+never allowing a favourable opportunity to pass unheeded.
+
+Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was observed stretching
+across Baird Inlet--the fixed land ice with loose detached streams. As
+we proceeded more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded
+us, and we only succeeded, after much boring and charging, in forcing a
+way through, and into a well-protected little harbour to the southward
+of Cape Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation in the land
+having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E. which acted as a famous
+breakwater, and was protected seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were
+detained for five days, although several attempts were made to proceed,
+which resulted in one instance in a hopeless besetment in the ice for
+some hours. The pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait
+patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage. The place was in
+consequence called "Bide-a-wee" Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer
+Harbour, after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of that name.
+
+During our detention the time of the officers was not unprofitably
+spent. A rough survey of the place was made, its position was correctly
+ascertained, a series of magnetic observations were obtained, and long
+walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during which a large and rich
+collection was made in the interests of geology and botany. No game of
+any description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered, but
+evidently of an ancient date. They consisted of the remains of igdlus or
+huts, also some bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of a
+sledge.[1] Tidal observations were also taken in the harbour.
+
+Here also, it may be said, we received our first lessons in the art of
+sledging; for, wishing to be initiated into its mysteries, a party,
+consisting of four officers and five men dragging one of our large
+twenty-feet ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the pack. Our
+main object was of course to derive some practical experience in this
+all-important mode of Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we
+succeeded.
+
+We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with narrow water spaces between,
+_just_ too broad to admit of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently
+wide to launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at one time the
+bows of the boat would be seen rising almost perpendicularly in the air,
+whilst all hands were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes
+to the tune of "one, two, three, haul;" at another time the sledge would
+come down the side of a hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly
+time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and boat coming over
+us, and many were the falls in consequence. It was, however, rare fun.
+Once while launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly capsized;
+as it was she half filled, and everything inside--provisions, clothes,
+instruments, guns, and ammunition--was thoroughly saturated. A gold
+watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not improved by its
+immersion.
+
+Another source of amusement during our stay in this harbour was chasing
+"unies," as narwhals are invariably called by the whalers; but, although
+a good deal of patience and perseverance was displayed in attempts to
+harpoon them, these qualities were never rewarded, and the boats always
+returned unsuccessful from their pursuit.
+
+Our little check in this harbour produced a slight despondency in those
+who, for the previous few days, had been most sanguine of pushing on.
+This was always alluded to in the ward-room as the depression of the
+social barometer, and was for the future daily registered!
+
+On the morning of the 4th of August, a southerly gale having blown all
+the previous night, a channel of open water was visible as far as Cape
+Sabine. This was an opportunity not to be lost. Accordingly, at 4 A.M.,
+the anchors were weighed, and, before a fresh but bitter cold wind, both
+ships made sail, and succeeded, after having made so many futile
+attempts, in rounding the Cape. Bearing away to the westward we steered
+up Hayes Sound, keeping close in to the land, the grounded icebergs
+giving us timely notice of shoal water. At noon, opening a perfectly
+land-locked bay, and the ice being so closely packed ahead as to defy
+farther progress, the vessels were steered for the entrance, and we soon
+found ourselves in a beautiful inlet enclosed by high land, but bounded
+on one side by one of the grandest sights it is possible to behold: two
+enormous glaciers coming from different directions, but converging at
+their termination. They reminded us of two huge giants silently
+attempting to push and force each other away.
+
+It was indeed a noble sight, and filled us with impatient curiosity for
+the moment when we could land and indulge in a closer inspection.
+
+Accordingly, the anchors were no sooner let go than several started for
+the purpose of paying it a visit. Landing abreast of the ship, we had
+rather a rough and tumble sort of a scramble over loose masses of
+gneiss, until we emerged on the banks of the bed of the glacier--that
+is, the bed formed by the water running from the glacier during the
+summer thaws. The walking was most laborious, at one moment through a
+wet swampy bog, and at another over rough sharp-pointed stones.
+
+The vegetation appeared luxuriant, and we found the traces of musk-oxen,
+reindeer, wolves, foxes, and hares in abundance; but, although we were
+provided with guns, we failed to secure any game, for the simple reason
+that we saw none. But the traces of musk-oxen were very fresh, and
+several horns of the reindeer were picked up. After a tedious walk of
+about four or five miles we arrived at the glacier--the stupendous and
+sublime work of ages. How insignificant and despicable did we appear in
+comparison to this gigantic creation of Nature! I can compare it to
+nothing except, perhaps, a frozen Niagara! The left-hand glacier was
+rounded off, like a huge icy wave to its end, whilst it receded from our
+view in long milky undulations until lost in the clouds. The right-hand
+one--the lateral and terminal sides of which were quite precipitous--was
+pressing against its neighbour until it had raised a slight ridge
+between the two. We were naturally desirous of ascending one or both of
+these glaciers, but time would not admit of such an undertaking, and we
+were therefore compelled to content ourselves by standing upon a small
+projection of each glacier, so as to be able to say that we had been on
+them.
+
+That Eskimos had visited this locality was certain; for we discovered on
+our way out the site of an old settlement, and on the way back we
+observed two large cairns that had evidently been used as _caches_.
+
+Alexandra Bay and Twin Glacier Valley, as they were henceforth
+designated, were the nearest approach to an Arctic paradise that we saw
+during our sojourn in the Polar Regions. A sheltered and well-protected
+harbour, with a locality abounding in game of various descriptions, are
+of such importance that it is impossible to prize them too highly. They
+should be the first and grand objects to be taken into consideration
+whilst selecting a spot for winter quarters.
+
+Although we were not fortunate in obtaining game during our stay of only
+a few hours in this interesting neighbourhood, I have not the slightest
+doubt that, had we penetrated a little farther into the interior, or had
+we remained here a day or two longer, we should have been rewarded by an
+ample supply, the traces that we observed being both numerous and
+recent.
+
+From tidal observations made during our brief stay in this harbour, we
+found that the flood tide in Hayes Sound came from the eastward, but
+that the ebb coming from the westward was the strongest. Whether Hayes
+Sound was a strait opening out to the westward or only a deep inlet was,
+and remains, a matter of uncertainty.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] The fact of one of these spear-heads being tipped with iron,
+    although they all bear the semblance of great age, would lead one to
+    suppose that the tribe by whom it was left must have had some
+    intercourse with Europeans, unless meteoric iron was used. This would
+    be a very interesting question to decide.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.
+
+
+  "On those great waters now I am,
+     Of which I have been told,
+   That whosoever hither came
+     Should wonders there behold.
+
+   "Trim thou the sails, and let good speed
+     Accompany our haste;
+   Sound thou the channels at our need,
+     And anchor for us cast.
+
+   "A fit and favourable wind
+     To further us provide,
+   And let it wait on us behind,
+     Or lackey by our side."
+
+     GEORGE WITHER.
+
+The morning following our arrival in Alexandra Harbour saw us again
+battling with the ice in Hayes Sound, having been deluded into leaving
+our comfortable snug quarters by the report that the pack had drifted to
+the eastward, leaving a navigable channel extending to the north. The
+report was fallacious, but we succeeded in threading our way to the N.W.
+for about twenty miles, when both ships were helplessly beset, with but
+little hope of extrication without a shift of wind.
+
+Many broad glaciers were in view, winding their long white snaky
+lengths between the hills, some of which could be traced into the
+interior for ten or twelve miles, or until lost in illimitable space.
+
+In twenty-four hours, the ice slackening enabled us to bore a way
+through, eventually emerging into a broad stream of water. How sudden
+and wonderful are the changes in these regions! From being closely
+beset, a couple of hours saw us in an apparently open sea with _no ice_
+in sight, and bowling along before a fresh southerly gale at the rate of
+seven knots. Social barometer very high! In the morning not a spoonful
+of water to be seen in any direction, in the evening not a vestige of
+ice!
+
+Passing close to the western shore we were able to confirm our views
+regarding the Henry and Bache Islands of Hayes. They are undoubtedly
+connected, and therefore not islands; but whether they were also
+connected with the mainland we were not able to determine. In all
+probability the supposed islands are a peninsula, apparently of
+sandstone formation overlying trap, different to the granitic formation
+of the southern shore of the strait. The land appeared quite bare of
+vegetation, and bore a strong resemblance to the Silurian limestone
+formation of the land about Prince Regent Inlet, showing stratifications
+dipping to the northward at an angle of about 6°.
+
+It does not do to indulge too freely in vain hopes in these regions. A
+period of eight hours was sufficient to cause our hopeful anticipations
+of a grand run to the northward to be "considerably eased down;" for in
+that time we were again stopped by the ice, and compelled to make fast
+to a floe, until the pack opened sufficiently to allow us to proceed.
+During the run we passed some very heavy floes--heavier than anything
+we had hitherto met, and quite sufficient in themselves to crush any
+unfortunate ship that should happen to get nipped between two of them.
+
+Off Albert Head great excitement was caused by the floe, to which both
+ships were secured, being driven towards a large grounded iceberg. To be
+squeezed between the two would be fatal. Our destruction seemed
+inevitable. Yet we on board were helpless to avert the catastrophe. All
+that we could do was to prepare for a severe nip: unship the rudder, and
+lift the screw, and having taken every precaution to ensure the safety
+of the crew, in the event of the ship's demolition, we could only look
+on, and in silence witness, as we thought, the irresistible and
+destroying powers of the Ice-King.
+
+The "Discovery" was at first in the most critical position, but a slight
+swerving of the floe relieved her from any immediate danger, whilst the
+same movement of the ice intensified our own.
+
+Nearer and more swiftly were we hurried towards the grim and motionless
+berg, up whose sides the floe, as it came into contact with it, was seen
+to be literally walking and forcing its way, crumbling and falling into
+shapeless masses at its base.
+
+Escape appeared impossible. It seemed hard at the very commencement of
+our voyage thus to lose our ship, and with it all hopes of success.
+Suddenly, when our fate seemed almost decided, the berg turned slightly,
+splitting up the floe to which we were secured and sending us clear. It
+was a narrow shave, and although we suffered a slight nip, no material
+damage was sustained.
+
+Being myself too fully occupied with the work on deck, one of my
+messmates kindly packed a few of my valuables together, ready to take
+away in case of having to abandon the ship. On going below after the
+ship had been secured, I found carefully packed in a haversack my
+journals, Bible and Prayer-Book, a few photographs, and three boxes of
+sardines!
+
+It must not be supposed that we passed in idleness those days that we
+were beset in the ice and unable to advance. As a rule our time was more
+fully occupied then than when we had leads of water in which we could
+proceed. Steam had to be kept ready for any sudden emergency, and a
+constant watch had to be kept on every movement of the pack. Frequently
+had the ice anchors to be tripped and the vessel moved, in order to
+avoid bergs or floes closing in upon and nipping us. Occasionally, when
+the pack opened, or appeared what we called "slack," we would attempt to
+bore through; but as this invariably entailed a large consumption of
+fuel, and gave very little result, it was not resorted to more than was
+absolutely necessary. Every opening in the ice was taken advantage of,
+by which we slowly but surely made progress northwards.
+
+The crow's-nest was never deserted. In it Captain Nares might almost be
+said to live, rarely coming on deck even for his meals; as for a night's
+rest, such a thing to him was quite unknown. From the "nest" the motions
+of the ice were closely scrutinized, the tides and currents were
+studied, and the influence of the wind on the pack ascertained. No
+opportunity was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing
+watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in advancing, although it was
+only inch by inch.
+
+Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the 8th of August, but at
+the expense of damaged rudder-heads to both ships, caused by the
+constant backing into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking
+through slight streams that offered impediments to our advance. A
+detention here enabled us to pay the shore a visit. Great difficulty was
+experienced in landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the land,
+which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall rising to the height of
+about twelve feet. Indeed it was more overhanging than perpendicular, as
+the action of the water had considerably undermined its base and
+therefore rendered it almost inaccessible. By the aid of a long
+boat-hook staff and some rope we succeeded in clambering up, at the
+expense of bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting like
+penknives. This proceeding was not unattended by a certain amount of
+danger, for had the ice given way we should have been precipitated into
+the boat, in which case we should have been extremely lucky to have
+escaped without a fractured bone or limb.
+
+The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of which the hills were
+composed made the walking very arduous, added to which a thick fog and
+snowstorm that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so far as
+ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward and the prospect of
+pushing on were concerned. The steep cliffs surrounding this prominent
+headland are wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and
+weather, and present the same "battlemented" appearance so common to the
+Silurian limestone formation of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and
+Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but, with the exception
+of some sprigs of the stunted willow and a single tuft of saxifrage,
+the land was devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched away into
+the interior, entirely free from both snow and ice. Traces of former
+inhabitants were discovered along the beach, consisting of the site of
+an Eskimo settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps.
+
+Hitherto the traces of these interesting tribes have been continuous
+along the western side of Smith Sound, and tend, in my opinion, to prove
+conclusively that the Eskimos were in former days far more numerous than
+they are at the present time. What has become of them? The solution of
+this important ethnological question would be of the greatest interest.
+Have they gradually died out? or have they migrated farther south, and
+are now represented by the "Arctic Highlanders," and by tribes settled
+on both sides of Lancaster Sound who are frequently visited by our
+whalers?
+
+It is certain that at some remote time there was a movement of Eskimo
+tribes from Asia towards Greenland in these high latitudes, for traces
+of their encampments have been found along the shores of the Parry group
+from Melville Island to Lancaster Sound, where they are still living in
+Dundas Harbour and in Admiralty Inlet. The late Admiral Sherard Osborn
+and my cousin, Mr. Clements Markham, paid great attention to this
+subject during the Arctic Expedition of 1850-51, and prepared a
+descriptive list of all the Eskimo vestiges along the whole length of
+the Parry group.[1] We now traced similar remains up the western side
+of the channels leading north from Smith Sound, at Cape Sabine, on the
+shores of Buchanan Strait, on Norman Lockyer Island, on Capes Hilgard,
+Louis Napoleon, Hayes, and Fraser, at Radmore Harbour, and Bellot
+Island. The most northern point where human remains were discovered was
+at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N. Here our naturalist found the framework
+of a large wooden sledge, a stone lamp, and a snow scraper made of
+walrus tusk. Beyond this point there was no sign of any human being
+having preceded us. This is the utmost northern known limit of Eskimo
+wandering, and here they appear to have crossed the strait, and to have
+made their way southward on the Greenland side. The most northern
+permanent human habitation in the world is now at Etah, near Port
+Foulke, and, under present climatic conditions, it would be impossible
+even for the Etah Eskimo to exist at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N.,
+whither their ancestors must have wandered in remote times. There is
+much yet to learn respecting these marvellous wanderings along the
+Arctic shores; and our expedition has certainly thrown considerable new
+light on the question. We have fixed the most northern limit of the
+Eskimo migrations, and have established the fact that they did not come
+from the north down Smith Sound, but merely wandered round its shores
+until the palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel made them despair of
+finding there the means of supporting life. We have also proved that the
+people seen by Captain Clavering on the east coast of Greenland in 1823
+could not have come round its northern extreme, but that they had found
+their way to the neighbourhood of the Pendulum Islands from Cape
+Farewell. They are useful contributions towards the final solution of a
+very important ethnological question, which, however, cannot be fully
+and conclusively settled until all the unknown parts of the Polar area
+have been explored.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] See the "Selection of Papers on Arctic Geography and Ethnology,"
+    printed for the use of the Expedition by the Royal Geographical
+    Society, p. 163.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+WALRUS HUNT.--DOG DRIVING.
+
+
+  "So Zembla's rocks, the beauteous work of frost,
+   Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast;
+   Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away,
+   And on the impassive ice the lightnings play;
+   Eternal snows the growing mass supply,
+   Till the bright mountains prop the incumbent sky:
+   As Atlas fixed, each hoary pile appears,
+   The gathered winter of a thousand years."
+
+     POPE.
+
+During the remainder of the navigable season, I propose to present the
+narrative of the voyage in the form of a diary, giving the extracts as
+they were written down at the time, when the events they record were
+fresh in my memory.
+
+_Sunday, August 8th._--Snow fell very heavily during the forenoon,
+completely covering the surrounding hills, and lying several inches deep
+on our deck. Clearing up in the afternoon we found ourselves completely
+beset by the ice and drifting shorewards. Steam was resorted to and
+every effort made to reach a narrow lane of water, only a hundred yards
+distant, but without success. At four o'clock the ship experienced a
+slight nip, the ice piling up as high as our main chains, but
+fortunately for us it was of too soft a nature to do much damage. Half
+an hour afterwards the nip eased and the pack commenced to open, showing
+broad lanes of water. This sudden slackening of the ice was due to the
+total cessation of wind. We soon extricated ourselves from our
+unpleasant situation, and lay in eager readiness to take advantage of
+any opportunity of advancing that might offer itself.
+
+11.30 P.M.--The ways of ice are indeed inscrutable! Five hours ago
+Grinnell Land loomed in the distance, and we had little prospect of
+reaching it for some time. Now we are actually made fast to the land-ice
+in Franklin Pierce Bay on the southern shore of Grinnell Land!
+
+We esteem ourselves particularly fortunate in having reached thus far.
+Cape Fraser is not far distant, and this appears to be our Rubicon. Once
+passed, fewer difficulties are anticipated. We may very fairly reason
+that to the northward of this promontory will be found a "North Water"
+similar to the one north of Baffin Bay, the ice remaining in the broad
+part of Smith Sound like the middle pack in Baffin Bay and Davis
+Straits.
+
+In the latitude of Cape Fraser Kane reported what he called an open
+Polar Sea, Hayes the same, whilst the "Polaris" actually navigated for
+some distance this "North Water." Why-should we find it different?
+
+The ice opened this afternoon in a miraculous manner, in one long lead
+from land to land, sufficiently wide for us to pass through; and then,
+as if it had opened expressly for us, closed again, and with such
+rapidity that our consort, who was following in our wake, having lagged
+a little behind, was caught and remained beset for some time;
+eventually, however, boring through and rejoining us.
+
+_August 9th._--We succeeded this morning in pushing on for three or four
+miles, when, being completely stopped by the ice, we were again
+compelled to make fast. In consequence of the heavy fall of snow
+yesterday, the surface of the water was coated with a soft sludgy
+substance, half ice and half snow, which greatly impeded our progress.
+
+The statement made by Dr. Hayes in his interesting work, that "along the
+entire coast of Grinnell Land no glacier appears," is slightly
+inaccurate; for at the head of Franklin Pierce Bay two tolerably large
+glaciers are situated, whilst another was seen a few miles to the
+westward on the same coast. Doubtless Dr. Hayes intended to say
+_discharging_ glaciers, in which case he would, I think, be nearly
+correct.
+
+For three days were we detained, without the ice allowing us the
+slightest chance of moving, during which time a complete series of
+magnetic observations was obtained on the floe, the inclination of the
+needle being as much as 85° 34´. Both the dredge and trawl were also put
+into requisition and with good results. Amongst the many zoological
+curiosities brought to the surface, from a depth of fifteen fathoms,
+were some crinoids. These echinoderms are very rare, few specimens
+having been met with, until the deep-sea dredgings of the "Challenger"
+brought them more into notice.
+
+A small island, since called Norman Lockyer Island after the
+distinguished astronomer of that name, was visited, and its highest
+eminence ascended for the purpose of watching the movements of the pack.
+Landing on the ice-foot that fringed the shore, we stepped on to a long
+shaly beach that rose in well-defined and regular terraces to at least
+two hundred feet above the level of the sea, showing the different tidal
+marks, and illustrating clearly the gradual upheaval of the land.
+Numerous traces of Eskimo were discovered on this small and remote
+island, consisting of the sites of several encampments, and a bone
+harpoon point, all apparently of very ancient date. The highest part of
+the island is from five to six hundred feet above the sea. It is of
+limestone formation, and on several of the rocks, especially those at
+its summit, distinct glacial marks were detected. Vegetation was scanty,
+although here and there the poppy, saxifrage, and willow could be seen
+cropping up between the stones.
+
+Here too we succeeded in harpooning a couple of walruses. Three of these
+large animals were observed on a piece of ice, their large ungainly
+forms stretched out, lazily enjoying their _siesta_. Volunteers were not
+wanting for the purpose of attempting their capture; but as an
+indiscriminate attack would only lead to failure, it was determined to
+despatch one of the whale boats, specially fitted with a harpoon gun,
+and all the necessary implements and gear for securing these animals, in
+order to effect in a more organized and skilful manner the object we had
+in view.
+
+Great difficulty was experienced in approaching our prey, as the boat
+had to be hauled over loose fragments of ice, and pushed through a
+sludgy consistency of soft ice, snow, and water, in which the oars were
+useless; so that it was feared the unavoidable noise would disturb and
+frighten them away. At length, after much trouble and no little
+exertion, we succeeded in getting within about eight yards, so sound
+was their repose, without exciting any suspicion in their minds that
+danger was lurking in their vicinity. At that distance, however, they
+evinced a degree of restlessness, by lifting their shaggy heads and
+uttering jerky spasmodic snorts, that showed us only too plainly a
+retreat was meditated.
+
+[Illustration: WALRUSES.]
+
+Selecting the largest of the three as his victim, our harpooner
+carefully laid his gun. A moment of breathless suspense followed, to be
+relieved by the report of the gun, a roar of pain and rage, and the
+disappearance in the water of the three walruses, while the piece of
+ice, on which a moment before they had been reposing, was covered with
+blood, convincing us that our shaft had taken effect. If any further
+proof was required in corroboration of this fact, a tugging at the line
+and the sudden moving of the boat was sufficient. Lances and rifles were
+quickly seized; for these animals, when wounded and maddened by pain,
+are ugly and dangerous customers, and have frequently been known to rip
+the planks out of a boat with their formidable tusks, and thus
+seriously endanger the lives of the crew. We had not long to wait; a
+disturbance in the water close alongside denoted that our victim was
+coming to the surface. An instant after, his bearded face with every
+expression of infuriated rage and demoniacal hate, his fiery eyes
+glaring with vengeance, appeared, and was immediately saluted with two
+or three rifle bullets. This warm reception served only to incense and
+irritate him, and he tried hard to wreak his vengeance on the boat; but
+his enemies were too powerful, and with the united aid of bullets and
+lance thrusts the unwieldy beast was forced to succumb to the superior
+power of his human antagonists. Towing the great carcase back to the
+ship, it was hauled up on the floe, and quickly _flinched_.[1] The
+blubber and flesh were packed in barrels, making a very welcome addition
+to the small amount of food that we had on board for our dogs.
+
+Another walrus was harpooned on the following day, and these were the
+only two captured by the expedition during their stay in the Arctic
+regions. Walrus steaks, from this date, were for some time in great
+demand, whilst the liver was pronounced to be perfectly excellent, and
+even superior to pig's fry!
+
+As a rule these animals are exceedingly difficult to kill, for in
+addition to their enormously thick skulls and coating of almost
+impenetrable skin and blubber, they are excessively tenacious of life. A
+rifle bullet, although a walrus may eventually die of the wound, is more
+than useless, as it will effectually scare him away, and thus all chance
+of securing him is lost. The only sure way of succeeding in their
+capture is by the use of the harpoon, and this weapon of course is only
+available at short distances.
+
+During the temporary delays of the ships in the ice, amusement was not
+forgotten, and we often had rare fun. It is a very important point in an
+Arctic expedition to keep the men constantly employed and interested,
+otherwise they would, more especially when their onward progress was
+checked, be subject to gloomy moods and fits of despondency. Care,
+therefore, should be taken to guard against these feelings.
+
+Amongst the numerous games purchased by the expedition before leaving
+England was a football, which, on occasions of this sort and when the
+ice would admit of it, would be produced, and a game kept up with great
+spirit, though with an utter disregard of all orthodox rules. So long as
+Jack got his kick, no matter in which direction the ball was propelled,
+he was satisfied! Officers and men would alike mingle in the game, every
+one determined to carry out the one grand object, namely, that of
+enjoying themselves. Skating and sliding on the ice were also
+accomplishments that afforded much pleasure and amusement, and were
+freely indulged in by all, irrespective of age or rank. Sometimes our
+Eskimo dogs would be taken out on the floe and harnessed to an empty
+sledge, whilst some would-be dog driver, anxious to attain proficiency
+as a whip, would make a start, and be seen tearing round the floe,
+regardless of weak ice and pools of water, at the rate of ten miles an
+hour, returning on board thoroughly drenched, but happy in the knowledge
+that he had succeeded as a dog driver.
+
+Perhaps a few words here in connection with the dogs would not be out of
+place. As I have before stated, they lived almost entirely in the fore
+part of the vessel, and were consequently especial favourites with the
+men, by whom they were fed and greatly petted. Of course they were all
+named, their appellations being more characteristic than euphonious.
+They rejoiced in such names as Ginger, so called on account of his
+colour; Bruin, because he was minus a tail, having been deprived of this
+appendage in his youthful days; Boss-eye, on account of the obliquity of
+his vision, or as our men expressed it, because "his eyes were rove
+cross-jack brace fashion;" Sore-sides, in consequence of the unfortunate
+dog when it came on board suffering from an unhealed wound in its side.
+Sallie, Topsy, Sly-boots, Jessie, etc., were the names of others.
+
+The only English dog in the expedition was my black retriever Nellie, an
+old shipmate and companion, who took no pains to conceal her displeasure
+and disgust at the introduction of such, in her estimation, a rough and
+rowdy pack; nor was she ever afterwards induced to cultivate their
+acquaintance. As she lived in the after part of the ship, she viewed
+with a jealous eye any attempts on the part of the Eskimo dogs to
+intrude on what she regarded as her own domain, and would invariably fly
+at and drive them forward.
+
+Shortly after their appearance on board, and long before they had been
+used for sledging purposes, a species of rabies, or dog madness, broke
+out amongst them, which very quickly and alarmingly thinned their
+number. The first symptom of this disease would generally be the dog
+falling down in a fit, from which it would partially recover only to
+rush about in a frantic manner as if totally deprived of all sense and
+feeling. On some occasions they would rush into the water and be
+drowned, and at other times wander away from the ship to be no more
+seen; sometimes their sufferings would terminate in death, whilst at
+other times they would be shot in order to release the poor things from
+their pain.
+
+All expeditions have experienced the same kind of disease and mortality
+amongst their dogs, for which there has hitherto been no remedy. It is a
+curious fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the Eskimo, and no man
+bitten by one of these dogs during a mad fit has ever suffered permanent
+injury from its effects. Frequently whilst employed sledging, they have
+been attacked by violent fits, resembling cramp, completely prostrating
+them, causing them to roll over on their sides and foam at the mouth. On
+these occasions they would be freed from the sledge, which after a time
+they would follow, when they would be reharnessed and proceed as if
+nothing had occurred.
+
+Dr. Colan devoted much of his time to the investigation of the nature
+and causes of this disease, and I have no doubt his researches will
+throw a flood of light over this matter that will prove of the greatest
+value to succeeding expeditions in the preservation of their dogs, and
+be the means of baffling the attacks of this insidious disease.
+
+The dogs when employed in dragging a sledge are always harnessed in line
+abreast, and never, as generally supposed, ahead of each other in tandem
+fashion.
+
+From six to ten or a dozen dogs form a team. They are capable of
+dragging as much as one hundred and fifty pounds per dog; but this is
+rather an excessive load and should not be exacted for any length of
+time. So strong and enduring are they that they will frequently perform
+a journey, over smooth ice, of twenty-five or thirty miles a day with
+this load; but with light loads and level ice they have been known to
+travel as much as seventy and even a hundred miles in one day.
+
+There is something very exhilarating and exciting about dog sledging, so
+long as the weather is fine, temperature not too low, smooth level ice
+to travel over, and a light sledge to drag. But let all these various
+conditions be reversed, let the weather be thick and foggy, or a gale of
+wind blowing with a blinding snow-drift, a temperature of 50° below
+zero, rough hummocky ice to travel over, and a heavily laden sledge to
+be dragged by a tired and obstinate team, then dog sledging cannot be
+regarded as either a comfortable or desirable amusement.
+
+The sensation of dashing along on a light sledge at the rate of ten
+miles an hour, the fine snow flying into one's face as the dogs tear
+through it pell-mell in their headlong career, or perhaps plunging down
+the side of a steep ravine when the utmost caution is required to
+prevent the sledge from capsizing and toppling over on the top of the
+dogs, is both novel and delightful. But when obstacles such as hummocks
+and deep snow-drifts have to be encountered, especially with a low
+temperature, the reverse is the case. Directly the sledge receives the
+slightest check from either of these causes, the dogs lie down, and look
+at you in the most provoking manner. It is no use having recourse to the
+whip, for not all the flogging in the world will make them advance until
+the obstacle has been removed, or the sledge carried over the
+difficulties that had retarded its progress.
+
+The whip is the main feature in dog driving. To be a good driver it is
+therefore necessary to use this implement in a dexterous manner. The
+lash is a thong of sealskin about eighteen or twenty feet long, attached
+to a short handle of about twelve inches in length. It is, in the hands
+of an experienced driver, a formidable weapon, the punishment that the
+dogs receive from it being often very severe. They are guided solely by
+it, and it is amusing to witness the cunning and intelligence displayed
+by the outside dogs, who invariably get more than their fair share of
+the lash, in dodging under the lines of the others and emerging
+somewhere in the midst of the team in order to escape from its terrible
+infliction. Another very annoying and distressing piece of work
+connected with dog sledging is clearing the lines, which in a short time
+become in a grievously entangled state from the constant dodging about
+of the dogs, and this it must be remembered has to be done with hands
+encased in thick woollen mitts, for to bare them would ensure serious
+frost-bites. In consequence of the amount of provisions that have of
+necessity to be carried for the use of the dogs, it is almost impossible
+to use them for long journeys. None were employed during the expedition
+by any of the extended sledge parties; but for short journeys, or when
+dispatch was required, they were invaluable.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] "Flinching" is a whaling term for cutting up a whale or walrus.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.
+
+
+  "He rose, the coast and country to survey,
+   Anxious and eager to discover more.
+   It looked a wild uncultivated shore,
+   But whether human kind or beast alone
+   Possessed the new-found region was unknown."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+_Thursday, August 12th._--Early this morning, the floes opening
+slightly, an attempt was made to proceed; but it was a futile one, the
+ice remaining perfectly impenetrable. This delay is naturally causing
+anxiety, as our fuel is rapidly disappearing, from the constant demand
+for steam, and the navigable season is also as rapidly waning, young ice
+forming alongside the ship nearly an inch in thickness. Patience,
+combined with caution and perseverance, is an indispensable
+qualification for an Arctic navigator. At the same time he must be
+prepared, when occasion offers, to make a bold dash. Quick determination
+and an ever-ready eye to seize upon any available opportunity are also
+necessary attributes of the explorer who hopes to achieve success in ice
+navigation. Without them failure is inevitable.
+
+In the forenoon both ships were slightly nipped. We succeeded in
+unshipping our rudder in time; but the "Discovery," receiving the
+squeeze more astern, had her rudder very severely injured. She was
+enabled, however, to patch it up sufficiently for temporary use and thus
+avoid the necessity of shifting it. In the afternoon the ice began to
+move to the eastward, enabling us once more to make a start. Hastily
+shipping our rudders we got under weigh, and having bored through a few
+streams of ice emerged into a fine lead of water extending between the
+land and the pack. Passing Cape D'Urville, we opened a large inlet. At
+its head was a deep ravine, containing two large glaciers which, running
+respectively from N.E. and N.W., met and formed one terminal face. At 9
+P.M. the southern extreme of Dobbin Bay, called Cape Hawks, was passed.
+This is a magnificent promontory, which has, with some propriety, been
+compared, in appearance, to the Rock of Gibraltar.
+
+It was a beautifully calm night as both ships silently rounded this bold
+headland, the water so still and unruffled that it was actually used as
+an artificial horizon for the purpose of taking an astronomical
+observation. The Cape itself towered over our heads as we steamed past,
+its reflection in the still quiet water being clearly visible, whilst
+deep ravines on either side stretched away apparently for miles into the
+interior, until lost amid the snow-shining mountains in the far
+distance. A large glacier at the head of the bay showed out prominently
+as it glistened in the light of a bright midnight sun, the bay itself
+being covered with an icy sheet, broken only by a few long low bergs,
+generated, in all probability, from the selfsame glacier. The few clouds
+that were visible in the almost cloudless sky presented an exquisite
+iridescence rarely witnessed, exhibiting clearly defined bright
+colours, extending in bands in a horizontal direction, the reflection
+of which in the clear pellucid water materially enhanced the beauties of
+the landscape. Such a scene, with all its surroundings, could scarcely
+be equalled in beauty, certainly not surpassed, even in sunny Italy.
+
+[Illustration: CAPE HAWKS.]
+
+Making the ships fast to an iceberg, preparations for landing a large
+depôt of provisions, similar to the one established at the Cary Islands,
+were immediately commenced. A jolly-boat, obtained from the "Valorous,"
+was also deposited here. We have now two large depôts, besides boats,
+established in our rear, sufficient to sustain a large party for many
+days, should any untoward accident befall our ship.
+
+Whilst engaged in these operations, an adjacent island--Washington
+Irving Island--was visited, and a large cairn erected on its summit. Our
+surprise may be imagined when, on reaching the top, the remains of an
+old cairn were discovered. At first its origin was attributed to Hayes,
+who visited the island in 1860, but on closer inspection evidences of a
+construction at a much earlier date were palpable, the stones of which
+it was composed being covered with lichen, denoting great age. Hayes, in
+the published account of his voyage, makes no mention either of having
+seen this cairn or of having built one on the island. It was,
+undoubtedly, the work of white men's hands; the object and necessity for
+building cairns is unknown, and therefore not practised, by the Eskimos.
+How then came this structure in such a remote and desolate part of the
+world? Can it be the work of some obscure navigator of years gone by,
+who erected this monument as a memento of his visit, but who never
+returned to relate the results of his adventurous voyage? This must for
+ever remain a mystery!
+
+Of course it was quickly demolished and its site subjected to a very
+careful search, in the hopes of discovering some record or clue by which
+its history might be ascertained; but nothing was found, and we were
+forced to content ourselves with reconstructing it on a larger scale,
+and depositing a record at its base detailing the movements of the
+expedition.
+
+The depôt having been landed, the ships were moved a little farther up
+the bay, although, to effect this, we were compelled to have recourse to
+powder, in order to "blast" a passage through the ice. The recent
+tracks of a bear were observed on the floe, being the only indications
+of the presence of these animals that we had observed since leaving
+Melville Bay. It naturally caused a little excitement amongst our
+sportsmen and would-be bear slayers.
+
+The formation of the land around Dobbin Bay appeared curiously
+contorted; the stratifications dipping, in some places, to the westward
+at an angle of about 18°, whilst at others they assumed a perfectly
+horizontal direction. This irregularity of the strata may probably be
+accounted for by the trap, or other primary rock, forcing its way
+upwards through the limestone formation. Where these contortions appear
+the colour changes from the sombre grey of the surrounding limestone to
+a bright red and brownish hue.
+
+In the afternoon, it being deemed expedient for the safety of the ships
+that they should be docked, the requisite instructions were given, and
+in four hours they were securely placed in two large commodious docks,
+cut out of the solid floe.
+
+The process of docking is rendered necessary to prevent a ship from
+being crushed between two floes should she be so unfortunate as to be
+placed between them with the whole force of the pack driving against the
+outer one. This operation is frequently necessary whilst following the
+land-ice, although in these days of steam it is not so frequently
+practised as of old.
+
+Our ice-saw crews had previously been organized, and, as it is
+absolutely necessary that the work of construction should be carried out
+with the utmost expedition, the whole of the officers and ship's company
+were stationed so as to take an active part in the proceedings. The
+instant the order was given for "all hands to cut dock" a most animated
+scene ensued. Triangles were quickly erected, saws placed in position,
+the dock measured and marked out by boarding-pikes placed at the several
+corners, and every one working as if their lives depended upon their own
+individual exertions. Three persons only were left on board the
+ship--namely, one officer in charge of the deck, the engineer at the
+engines, and a man at the helm--and, as it was necessary to keep the
+ship constantly moving so as to avoid pieces of ice, and also to place
+her in a good position for being docked, these three had no sinecure
+offices.
+
+Occasionally a jet of water, followed by a loud report and a shower of
+fragmentary ice, showed that powder was used to shatter the larger
+pieces of ice that had been cut, but unless great care is taken in the
+use of this explosive, it is liable to damage the sides of the dock.
+
+This was our first attempt at dock cutting, which will account for the
+time occupied in its construction. Ordinarily the work should be
+completed in about a couple of hours. When two or more ships are in
+company time is saved by employing all hands to cut one dock large
+enough to take in all the ships.
+
+The diagram on next page will serve to illustrate the system employed by
+us whilst engaged in making one of these docks. The last triangular
+piece of ice that is taken out--namely, the portion marked on the plan
+by the letters C B F--is removed intact, and being placed across the
+entrance serves to close the dock and thus keep out all stray pieces of
+ice.
+
+After four hours of such work as dock cutting entails, it was poor
+comfort for us to return on board wet, cold, and hungry, only to find
+that our fires had been allowed to burn out, and that we could neither
+get a cup of tea to refresh ourselves with, nor a chance of warming
+ourselves at the stove.[1] The Eskimo dogs, being turned out on the floe
+and tied to one of our anchor lines, made night hideous by their dreary
+and lamentable wailing.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF ICE DOCK.
+
+  No. 1 saw cuts from A to B 200 ft.
+  No. 2 " " D to C 200 ft.
+  No. 3 " " B to C 35 ft., and then on to F 115 ft.
+  No. 4 saw cuts from F to D 120 ft., and, if necessary, from E to F 48
+    ft.
+
+  DIMENSIONS OF DOCK.
+
+  Length                200 ft.
+  Breadth, at entrance   65 "
+  Ditto, at head         35 "]
+
+For two days were the ships kept close prisoners; but on Sunday, August
+15th, as soon as divine service was finished, a large party of men was
+actively engaged in cutting and blasting a passage between the floe in
+which we were imprisoned and the shore, for a lead of water had been
+observed in the channel which we were naturally desirous of reaching.
+Although Sunday was as much as possible observed as a day of rest, it
+was quite out of the question to a party situated as we were altogether
+to abstain from work on the Sabbath. Our navigable season, we knew, was
+a short one; no opportunity could we afford to lose; and therefore we
+were compelled to work as much on Sunday as on week-days should
+circumstances arise which would make it necessary for us to do so. After
+about nine hours' hard work we succeeded in making a passage
+sufficiently broad for the ships to pass through. Our last explosion was
+a most effective one; no less than eight blasting charges, or torpedoes,
+were exploded simultaneously--these varied in size from five to twelve
+pound charges.
+
+[Illustration: "THE MOANING OF THE TIED."]
+
+The result of this, designated by the men, "feu de joy" was wonderful;
+the floe split and cracked in all directions, enabling us with our long
+ice points and poles to clear a splendid channel. Hauling the ships out
+of dock, we steamed through the passage and into a fine stream of water
+round Cape Louis Napoleon. So narrow, however, was our channel that in
+rounding the point, to our great dismay, the "Discovery" grounded. A
+delay at this moment might have proved fatal to us, and it was therefore
+with no small amount of satisfaction, after a short detention, that we
+observed her again afloat. Our joy at being again on the move was
+short-lived. A few hours sufficed to bring us to the edge of a field of
+ice, to penetrate which seemed utterly impossible. To cut a dock in such
+ice, the floes being from ten to twenty feet in thickness, was also out
+of the question, even had we been provided with saws sufficiently long
+to do so. Blasting was resorted to, and by this means we were enabled to
+secure the ship in a small indentation in the ice that afforded some
+slight protection. So high was the ice that our boats, hanging from the
+midship davits on the outside of the ship, had to be turned inboard to
+prevent their being crushed. For three days were we kept in a state of
+feverish excitement without being able to make any progress, and yet
+constantly moving the ship to avoid destruction from drifting bergs and
+closing floes.
+
+The shore was frequently visited, and the heights of Mount Joy and Cape
+Hayes ascended; but always the same scene met our view to northward--an
+impassable plain of ice.
+
+Twice in one day were the ships nearly destroyed. A large iceberg that
+was aground close to us, and therefore protecting us from the pack,
+suddenly floated and drifted away. This released a large floe to which
+we were secured, and with which we drifted down rapidly towards another
+large berg that remained aground. It was an anxious time for us, for in
+five minutes, unless we could move out of the way, we must be inevitably
+crushed between the two. All hands were quickly summoned, a line laid
+out astern and made fast to some large hummocks, and by this we
+fortunately succeeded in hauling the ship clear; but only just in time,
+for as our bowsprit cleared the berg, the floe came into contact with it
+with such irresistible force that hummock was piled upon hummock in a
+truly alarming manner. Had we been caught, nothing short of a miracle
+could have saved us.
+
+The noise of the ice as it squeezed against the berg was anything but
+pleasant to listen to; but still it was better than hearing our own
+timbers crashing to pieces in the same manner, and we all experienced a
+strong feeling of relief when the danger was past.
+
+Little rest was enjoyed by any on these days during which we were
+subjected to the wayward will of the pack. Unshipping and replacing the
+rudder, and lifting and lowering the screw, were duties that had to be
+carried out several times during each day, and, although this sort of
+work is rather depressing and irksome, the spirits of the crew never
+flagged. They were always ready, cheerful, and willing. No matter what
+duty they were called upon to perform, it was invariably carried out in
+the same zealous, hearty manner that was so conspicuously manifested
+during the whole period of the absence of the expedition as to elicit
+the unbounded praise and confidence of their leader.
+
+On the 19th of August the ice slackened sufficiently to enable us to
+proceed, and on that evening, to the intense delight of every one, we
+succeeded in rounding Cape Fraser.
+
+During the last three weeks we had advanced exactly ninety miles, or at
+the rate of about four and a quarter miles a day. This cannot be
+considered a rapid rate of travelling, yet to accomplish even this
+necessitated a constant and vigilant look-out.
+
+Cape Fraser is a bold promontory some thousand feet in height,
+terminating in a short projecting point of land about two hundred feet
+above the level of the sea. Above the talus appeared numerous caves in
+the cliffs, a peculiarity noticed for the first time, and the summit was
+studded with irregularities that, to an imaginative mind, might be
+perverted into gigantic beings, animals, or castellated towers. On one
+of these ridges was a heap of stones supposed to represent the "Twelve
+Apostles," and was so marked on the chart; but as we could never
+distinguish more than half the number at one time from any point of
+bearing, it was generally supposed on board that they adhered to true
+man-of-war regulations, and only appeared in their "watch on deck," half
+the number belonging of course to the watch below!
+
+At 10 P.M., being again temporarily stopped, the ships were secured in a
+little harbour called Maury Bay. During our detention in the vicinity of
+Cape Fraser, we were able to confirm the observations made by Dr.
+Bessels of the "Polaris," relative to the meeting of two tides at or
+about this point. This fact materially strengthens the argument in
+favour of the insularity of Greenland, for it has been deduced from a
+series of tidal observations obtained by us that the tide to the
+northward of Cape Fraser--that is, the tide in Kennedy and Robeson
+Channels--is undoubtedly the same as the North Atlantic one, and
+therefore flows along the northern coast of Greenland.
+
+Contrary to what might generally be expected, we did not encounter any
+very great accumulation of broken up ice in consequence of the meeting
+of these two tides: not more than would be caused by the fact of the
+channel decreasing in size to the northward at this point, and therefore
+offering greater obstruction to the ice whilst drifting northward, but
+facilitating its general drift, which is to the southward.
+
+From the summit of Cape John Barrow, which forms one extreme of the
+little bay in which we were secured, we obtained a good view, and one
+which delighted and gladdened our hearts.
+
+Northwards we could see as far as Cape L. von Buch; between us leads of
+water, although covered with much loose ice. To the eastward we could
+plainly distinguish Cape Constitution, with a large sheet of water along
+its base; but to get to it we should have had to penetrate a large
+expanse of pack. This pool of water was in all probability similar to
+one seen by Morton in the same place in 1855, and reported by him as an
+"open Polar sea," on which many imaginative theories have been based!
+
+Our return to the ship was not accomplished without much difficulty, in
+consequence of our little harbour of refuge having filled with drifting
+ice, during the time we were on shore, which beset our boat. We were
+therefore compelled to haul and drag it over and through innumerable
+fragments of ice, reaching the ship wet and fatigued, but delighted with
+the intelligence we possessed and the prospect of pushing on.
+
+_Friday, August 20th._--At one o'clock this morning, being the top of
+high water, we made another start.
+
+Taking advantage of the different broad lanes of water, we steamed
+rapidly past Cape Norton Shaw, and opened out Scoresby Bay--a grand
+harbour that would suit admirably for a ship's winter quarters, provided
+animal life existed. From the appearance of the land we imagined that
+game would be found in large quantities. A perfect cone-shaped hill on
+the north-west side is a very prominent feature of this bay. Indeed, the
+entire coast along which we are passing is composed of long ranges of
+hills more or less coniform, varying from one to two thousand feet in
+height. The coast line is very imperfectly delineated on our charts, the
+distance between the various bays and headlands are erroneous, and the
+positions are wrong; the error always being that they are placed too
+much to the northward.
+
+Off Cape McClintock we had another narrow escape from being severely
+nipped, in consequence of attempting to pass through a channel between
+two closing floes. Although jammed for a short time, the pressure was
+not very great, and, the nip easing, the ship was released. Passing Cape
+Collinson we were again obliged to make fast to a large floe, as all the
+leads to the northward had closed up, thereby preventing farther
+progress.
+
+The ice was moving rapidly to the southward--the whole pack drifting
+bodily--at the rate of from one and a half to two knots an hour. The
+floe to which we were secured was kept stationary by a couple of
+grounded icebergs that effectually resisted all its efforts to extricate
+itself. This rapid drift seemed to indicate the presence of a "North
+Water," or at any rate a very loose pack.
+
+Advantage was taken of our temporary delay to establish a small depôt of
+provisions, consisting of two hundred and forty rations, near Cape
+Collinson, for the use of a travelling party which, according to
+existing arrangements, would be dispatched to the southward by the
+"Discovery" during the following year, for the purpose of visiting Cape
+Isabella, and bringing up any letters that might have been deposited
+there for us.
+
+_Saturday, August 21st._--Lanes of water appearing continuous to the
+northward, we got under weigh at half-past two this morning; but after
+two or three hours' boring and working under steam and sail we were
+forced to relinquish the attempt, being unable to penetrate the pack in
+the direction we wished to proceed. We therefore returned to our former
+anchorage, under the lea of a friendly berg, the ice continuing to drift
+south with marvellous rapidity.
+
+Whilst detained here we were assailed by some furious squalls from the
+S.E., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. During one of these the
+"Discovery" was blown away from her anchors, and it was with no little
+difficulty that she was again secured to the floe in safety. Thinking we
+should be able to reach some open water to the northward by the removal
+of the large floe to which we were fast, both ships' companies were
+employed in sawing off a large piece of it, which, impinging on one of
+the stranded icebergs, would, it was thought, release the floe if
+detached. The distance to cut through was one thousand feet.
+Notwithstanding the magnitude of the undertaking, every one set to work
+with a will and resolution that betokened confidence in being able to
+succeed in anything that was required of them.
+
+Before the work was fairly commenced the ice appeared to slack to the
+eastward, and the captain, abandoning his former intention, determined
+to seek a passage through the pack instead of hugging the coast.
+
+Getting under weigh at 9.30 P.M., we bored through a large extent of
+slack ice, into a fine piece of open water, which, when reached, we
+found possessed no outlet. It was a perfect salt-water lake surrounded
+by ice. In this we were obliged to dodge about under sail, waiting
+patiently for the ice to open and thus allow us a free passage.
+
+As we proceed northwards the ice appears to be heavier and more
+formidable, and animal life seems to be getting more scarce. Few birds
+are seen. Occasionally the head of an inquisitive seal is protruded out
+of the water, but immediately withdrawn (if not killed) on being saluted
+by half a dozen bullets from the rifles of our keen and enthusiastic
+sportsmen, who are for ever on the watch to display their prowess in
+their endeavours to procure food for our dogs, by shooting these
+animals, who thus pay for their curiosity with their lives.
+
+We appeared to be leaving the region of icebergs, for, although those
+met with lately were of great size, they were few in number. The one
+affording us protection this forenoon was no less than six hundred feet
+in length.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] An amusing story is related of one of the officers. Whilst
+    engaged in cutting the dock, he, without thinking, put his pipe in
+    his trousers pocket, so as to enable him the more readily to work at
+    his ice-saw. Feeling, after a time, a little warm about his legs, he
+    attributed it to his exertions in working the saw, until a sharp and
+    intolerable pain caused him to put his hand into his pocket. This
+    speedily afforded an explanation: his pipe, being still alight, had
+    burnt a hole through his trousers and shirt and was burning his leg!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+KENNEDY CHANNEL.
+
+
+  _2nd Keeper._--"I'll stay above the hill so both may shoot."
+
+  _1st Keeper._--"That cannot be: the noise of thy cross-bow will scare
+  the herd, and so my shoot is lost. Here stand we both, and aim we at
+  the best."--_Henry VI._
+
+  "Within a long recess there lies a bay,
+   An island shades it from the rolling sea,
+   And forms a port secure for ships to ride,
+   Broke by the jutting land on either side."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+_Sunday, August 22nd._--The rapidity of the changes that take place in
+these icy seas is almost inconceivable. In a few hours from being
+helplessly imprisoned by a dense pack of ice, we were actually plying,
+under steam and sail, in a vast expanse of water containing only a few
+loose streams of ice, through which we had no difficulty in penetrating.
+Our predictions were indeed realized, and to a greater extent than we
+had even anticipated. We had reached a "North Water," in which we were
+sensible of a very perceptible motion on board the ship. It is true that
+the pack, apparently as solid and as impenetrable as ever, extended
+along the west side of Kennedy Channel; but to the northward and along
+the east side was a clear and open sea, free of ice, with its surface
+agitated by the fresh northerly wind that was blowing, and rising and
+falling with true oceanic undulations.
+
+Unfortunately for us, at least so far as making headway was concerned,
+the wind was not only very strong but directly ahead, compelling us to
+beat to windward under steam and fore and aft sails. We consoled
+ourselves, however, with the hope that the same wind would blow all the
+ice to the southward, and thus enable us to make good progress. The
+temperature being some six or seven degrees below freezing point caused
+us to feel the sharp wind in a very unpleasant manner, and made both the
+crow's-nest and bridge very disagreeable places of resort. The pleasure
+of feeling that we were really doing good work was, however, sufficient
+compensation for the discomfort that was felt.
+
+Stretching over to the eastern side of the channel we passed close to
+Crozier Island, having Cape Constitution full in view. Its appearance
+coincides exactly with the description given by Morton.
+
+This cape is the northern extreme of a bay called, by Kane, Lafayette
+Bay. It is steep and precipitous, and has no ice-foot adhering. Indeed,
+the base of the headland, as well as the adjacent one, Cape
+Independence, has the appearance of having been partially undermined by
+the action of the sea, thus forming an overhanging terrace, up which it
+would be impossible to ascend. Morton found its ascent totally
+impracticable, on account of the steep and rugged nature of the cliff.
+We were unable to detect any signs of a _mer de glace_ over this land,
+although a light tinge along the summit to the southward of Lafayette
+Bay would lead one to suppose that it existed. This, however, was the
+only indication of an ice-cap that was perceived, and it was one on
+which little or no reliance was placed.
+
+The positions of the various points along this coast are very fairly
+correct, being as nearly as possible in the latitudes ascribed to them
+by Dr. Bessels of the "Polaris," affording a striking contrast to the
+places on the opposite side of the channel, where the positions are so
+egregiously inaccurate. The deep inlet on the American chart called Carl
+Ritter Bay was not to be seen. The only indentation in the land in its
+assigned position was Richardson Bay, which we must naturally conclude
+was the one seen and named Carl Ritter by Dr. Hayes.
+
+It was a curious fact that, whereas the land on the west side of the
+channel was completely covered with snow, the land on the east side was
+entirely free. This was not the only peculiar feature in which the two
+sides of the channel differed. Although apparently of the same
+geological formation, there was a great dissimilarity between the
+physical appearance of the land on either side. That on the east was
+flat and table-topped, rising to the height of about one thousand feet,
+separated into hills by broad valleys, whilst the stratification of the
+cliffs was regular and horizontal. That on the west side was, on the
+contrary, composed of conical-shaped hills, rising to an altitude of
+from two to four thousand feet, and intersected by deep ravines, whilst
+the stratifications were so distorted that the dip varied as much as
+from 10° to 45°.
+
+Whilst the land on the east side appeared to have undergone a regular
+and steady upheaval, that on the west seemed to have been raised
+suddenly, the deep ravines between the numerous hills resembling the
+beds of ancient and extinct glaciers.
+
+_Monday, August 23rd._--A glorious run has been made during the last
+twenty-four hours, assisted, for a short time, as we have been, by a
+strong southerly wind; but alas! by 10 A.M. we arrived at the end of our
+tether!
+
+Passing the entrance to Bessels Bay, we reached Cape Morton, from whence
+extended right across Hall Basin our implacable enemy, the ice--solid
+floes of immense area stretching to the northward as far as the eye
+could reach, with no opening, no outlet of any description, and no
+indications of water.
+
+Polaris Bay was ahead of us, and we could plainly discern the position
+of the Americans' winter quarters; but with no hopes, for the present,
+of our reaching so far. We must again, as we have so often had to do
+before, exercise our patience, and wait for a more favourable
+opportunity for pushing on. The strong southerly wind now blowing will,
+in all probability, be succeeded by a calm or a breeze from the
+northward, either of which will have the effect of opening the ice. The
+"Discovery" having landed a small depôt of two hundred and forty rations
+at Cape Morton, for the use of travelling parties that will hereafter be
+dispatched for the purpose of exploring Petermann Fiord, both ships made
+sail and beat back to Bessels Bay, where we dropped anchor in seven
+fathoms, just inside, and under the protection of Hannah Island.
+
+Bessels Bay is a long and narrow indentation in the land, extending in a
+N.W. and S.E. direction, having numerous small glaciers on either side,
+the majority of them discharging ones. The bay is in consequence nearly
+choked with small bergs.
+
+This bay or fiord gives one the idea of having been originally the bed
+of some large glacier, now extinct, whilst Hannah Island, which lies
+directly across its mouth, has every appearance of having been its
+terminal moraine, not only from its position, but also from its
+composition, for it consists of an immense heap of pebbles and drift,
+possessing apparently no determined basis, no underlying rock.
+
+We were also able to observe here the undoubted _mer de glace_ under
+which Greenland is supposed to be buried, and whose outpourings in this
+locality find their escape in Petermann Fiord and Bessels Bay.
+
+A few eider-ducks, a seal, and some dovekies, with an ivory gull, were
+seen to-day.
+
+Captain Feilden and Mr. Parr landed on the northern side of the bay,
+and, ascending a high hill, obtained a good and unobstructed view to the
+northward. Their report was very desponding--ice, nothing but ice, as
+far as they could see.
+
+From what we can now observe, the land on the western side of Hall Basin
+appears to end abruptly somewhere about Cape Union, and does not
+continue to the northward, as represented in the last American Chart. I
+put no belief in the land reported to have been seen by some of the men
+of the "Polaris," and named President Land. Should the land terminate,
+as I anticipate, in about lat. 83° N. our chance of reaching a high
+latitude will of course be much reduced, although we shall have a grand
+field of exploration to the eastward and westward.
+
+In the evening the captain and myself visited Hannah Island, and erected
+a cairn, in which a record detailing our movements was deposited, on its
+summit, in the most conspicuous place about the centre of the island.
+Here we had an uninterrupted view to the northward; but what we saw
+only confirmed the report brought on board in the earlier part of the
+day. The western side of the channel appeared free of ice as far as Cape
+Lieber, and a lane of water was visible extending from us as far as this
+cape. By this stream of water appears our only chance of getting on.
+
+_Tuesday, August 24th._--The captain left the ship early this morning to
+ascend the hill immediately above Cape Morton (two thousand feet in
+height), in order to ascertain from the nature of the ice what our
+prospects of pushing on were likely to be. During his absence a haul
+with the dredge was obtained, but with unimportant results: the
+continual movement of icebergs in the bay, all more or less aground,
+would hardly admit of much organic life at the bottom. Fossils abounded
+in the limestone on shore, and a large collection of specimens was made.
+
+At noon the captain was observed, in his boat, off Cape Morton, with the
+signal flying for the ships "to weigh."
+
+His orders were speedily executed; and, having picked him up, we were
+soon running quickly across to the western side. He gave us the very
+pleasing information that from the summit of Cape Morton he had observed
+a magnificent lead of water along the west coast, and extending in all
+probability as far as Cape Beechey. This was indeed delightful
+intelligence, and served to raise the social barometer many degrees.
+
+Our coal was rapidly diminishing, and we knew that many more days of
+steaming such as those we had lately had would reduce our fuel to such
+an extent that we could hope to do little more; for without steam a
+vessel in these latitudes would indeed be helpless.
+
+11 P.M.--Oh, the hopes and disappointments that we poor Arctic explorers
+have to endure! First of all a confiding anticipation in the future
+makes us joyous and expectant, and then we are plunged into the lowest
+depths of despondency.
+
+Two hours ago we were steaming through a grand expanse of water, looking
+forward with confidence to reaching, in a few hours, Cape Beechey, or
+perhaps even Cape Union, both being distinctly visible ahead, whilst
+Capes Brevoort, Sumner, and Stanton were in sight on our starboard bow.
+
+Passing Cape Baird, however, we were again met by our insatiable enemy,
+the ice, which defied all our efforts to penetrate it.
+
+We are now slowly picking our way across Lady Franklin Strait towards
+Cape Bellot, in the hope of being able to reach some place of security
+where we can remain patiently until a northerly wind shall have cleared
+a passage for us. Whilst crossing Kennedy Channel we obtained a
+magnificent view up Petermann Fiord. It is an extensive opening, with no
+land visible at its head. This is a geographical problem which we hope
+we shall soon be able to solve. It is difficult to determine at present
+whether Lady Franklin Strait is really a strait or a deep inlet. We are
+inclined to the latter belief. This is another question we hope will
+soon be satisfactorily settled.
+
+_Wednesday, August 25th._--At one o'clock this morning, whilst threading
+our way amongst the ice-floes that bordered the coast, a herd of musk
+oxen was observed browsing quietly on an adjacent hill. Such an
+opportunity for obtaining fresh meat was not to be disregarded. A
+shooting party was quickly organized, and, whilst the boats were being
+prepared and the hunters getting ready their rifles, the ships were
+taken into a beautifully snug and land-locked harbour, protected at its
+mouth by a large island, situated on the northern coast of Lady Franklin
+Bay.
+
+Here the anchors were let go, and the sportsmen despatched in quest of
+the game.
+
+Separating into three distinct parties on landing, we advanced
+cautiously towards the spot where they were last seen grazing, hoping to
+be able to surround and capture the entire herd. Not only did we all
+enter keenly into the sport, but our mouths watered at the prospect of
+again indulging in fresh meat. We pictured to ourselves smoking-hot
+beefsteaks and savoury calf's liver, dainties that we had for some time
+been strangers to, being prepared for us after our return to the ship,
+never even dreaming of a chance of returning empty-handed.
+
+The disposition of our force was well calculated, for the musk oxen
+being alarmed, in all probability by the blowing off of steam from one
+of the ships, started in full flight in the direction of a deep ravine.
+Here they were met by a couple of the hunters, who discharging their
+rifles dropped two of the herd. The remainder turned and dashed up the
+side of a steep hill, but only to be met by two more sportsmen, who made
+such good use of their time and weapons, that they succeeded in shooting
+the remainder, seven in number.
+
+One of the first brought down was the bull of the herd, a noble fellow;
+but so tenacious of life that several shots had to be expended, at a
+very short range, before he bit the dust.
+
+Elated with our success, and having sent back to the ship for assistance
+in conveying the meat on board, we commenced skinning, cleaning, and
+cutting up the animals, so as to guard against the possibility of any
+delay in doing so being the means of tainting the flesh with the
+disagreeable musky odour. This, in consequence of the scarcity of knives
+amongst the party, was a long and tedious process; however, by nine
+o'clock we had the satisfaction of seeing our "morning's bag" safely on
+board, amounting altogether to 2,124 lbs. of good fresh meat. Not a bad
+morning's work!
+
+[Illustration: MUSK OXEN.]
+
+These animals, from peculiarities they possess, are placed in a genus
+between the sheep and the ox, and are called _ovibos moschatus_. They
+are only met with in high latitudes, although traces of them, it is
+reported, have been seen as far south as 59° N. lat., but they are
+rarely seen in any numbers lower than 67° N. lat.
+
+They have been seen, and shot, in large numbers, by the various search
+expeditions wintering at and about Melville Island, and they were also
+obtained on the opposite side of Kennedy Channel by the "Polaris" in
+1872. The crew of this latter vessel succeeded in shooting twenty-six
+during the twelve months they passed in this latitude. They are
+gregarious, usually wandering in small herds, although occasionally
+single specimens are found. The herd just obtained by us consisted of
+one old bull and four old cows, and two young bulls and two young cows.
+They subsist on the scant vegetation of these regions--principally
+grasses and lichens--which they scrape up from under the snow, when the
+ground is covered. They hardly give one the impression of being very
+quick and agile, yet they ascend hills and climb over rocks and rough
+surfaces with great ease. They are reputed to be very irascible, and
+have frequently been known, when wounded, to attack a hunter and
+seriously endanger his life. The horns are very broad, covering the brow
+and crown of the head, and meeting at their base. Our bullets appeared
+to have no effect when fired at the head. From the bull we obtained no
+less than 385 lbs. of meat!
+
+Finding that the harbour in which the ships were anchored possessed all
+the necessary qualifications for rendering the winter quarters of a
+vessel in the Arctic Regions comfortable and secure, Captain Nares
+selected this spot as the place in which he would leave the "Discovery."
+It appeared in every way adapted for this purpose. A secure harbour,
+possessing two narrow entrances, with the water so shallow as to
+effectually prevent the larger and heavier pieces of ice from drifting
+into it, with a neighbourhood covered with a more luxuriant and richer
+vegetation than had hitherto been seen, and giving evidences of being
+well stocked with game--for, in addition to the musk oxen, numerous and
+recent traces of wolves, foxes, hares, and lemmings had been
+observed--the place seemed especially suited for passing the winter in;
+and its selection as the winter quarters of our consort was never
+regretted.
+
+We all feel that the navigable season is rapidly drawing to a close, and
+that very few more days are left us. During the last week the
+temperature has never been above the freezing point; and the young ice
+has been forming to an alarming extent, even at midday. An advance, if
+farther advance is to be made, will be better and more speedily
+accomplished with one ship only, than by having two to look after. The
+responsibility is lessened, whilst the knowledge that there is another
+ship to fall back upon, in case of accidents, removes all anxiety.
+
+When the decision that the two ships were to part company was
+promulgated, it was received with satisfaction, although we were all
+sorry to lose the companionship of our numerous friends. The evening was
+spent in an interchange of visits, and many a sincere and fervent "God
+speed," with a silent but expressive squeeze of the hand, was exchanged
+between the officers and the men of the two Arctic ships.
+
+In order to strengthen our force on board the "Alert," and to have an
+extra sledge party for the purpose, if required, of communicating with
+our consort, an officer, Lieutenant Rawson, and seven men were received
+from the "Discovery;" the only thing that we were able to give in
+exchange being 900 lbs. of the musk oxen just procured--a by no means
+despicable offering!
+
+Everything having been satisfactorily arranged, the "Alert" steamed away
+from Discovery Harbour on the morning of the 26th, exchanging hearty
+cheers with her consort as she passed; she hoisting the signal "May
+Providence prosper your efforts," to which we replied "Happy Winter;"
+and thus we separated, happy in the knowledge that a safe refuge was
+established in our rear, with the unknown before us, fervently praying
+for a successful issue to our undertaking.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD.
+
+
+  "And now there came both mist and snow,
+   And it grew wondrous cold.
+   And ice, mast high, came floating by,
+   As green as emerald.
+   And through the drifts, the snowy cliffs
+   Did send a dismal sheen;
+   Nor shapes of men, nor beasts we ken,
+   The ice was all between.
+
+        *     *     *     *     *
+
+   With sloping masts and dripping prow,
+   As who pursued with yell and blow,
+   Still treads the shadow of his foe,
+   And forwards bends his head,
+   The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast,
+   And _Northwards_ aye we fled."
+
+     COLERIDGE.
+
+Now that we are pursuing our solitary journey northwards, we can the
+more fully realize that our real work has commenced--the real work
+towards the achievement of that success which we all so ardently hope
+will crown our efforts.
+
+Now that we are alone we shall be the more ready to avail ourselves of
+every opening in the ice that may present itself, every little chance
+that may occur, which we should be unable to do, if hampered with a
+second ship.
+
+We had hardly advanced three miles, in fact were still just inside the
+entrance to the harbour, when the ice, closing in round the point,
+barred all egress. In endeavouring to steer clear of these fragments,
+the ship grounded on a projecting spit off a small island, but sustained
+no injury, floating again immediately she was lightened. As farther
+advance was out of the question, for the present, in consequence of the
+pack having drifted in, the vessel was secured under the lee of a
+natural breakwater at the entrance to Discovery Harbour, ready to take
+advantage of the first opportunity of making a start that should offer.
+
+Accompanied by Feilden and Rawson, I made an expedition to Distant Cape,
+whence we obtained a good view of Robeson Channel; but it was anything
+but an inspiriting one. There appeared to be a perfect block of heavy
+ice right across to the Greenland coast, although a few thin blue lines,
+denoting streams of water, could be discerned radiating in the pack to
+the eastward, but apparently leading to nothing.
+
+Some terns, _Sterna Arctica_, were obtained on a small island, as also
+their young and eggs. The nests were simply little round holes, some in
+the snow, having a few small pebbles as a bed. Some knots, _Tringa
+Canutius_, were also obtained; but no amount of search was successful in
+discovering either the egg or the nest of this bird.
+
+A fine sheet of water, situated on the breakwater, being frozen over,
+afforded our skaters an opportunity of indulging in their favourite
+pastime, and of practising both the inside and outside edges to their
+hearts' content.
+
+The following day was also one of enforced idleness, and no movement
+could be made with the ship.
+
+[Illustration: KNOTS.]
+
+Snow fell heavily, much to our annoyance, as it prevented us from
+keeping a perfect watch on the ice in the channel, in consequence of its
+density. The ice was being set up Lady Franklin Bay at a great pace.
+Once during the day it appeared inclined to open and give us a chance of
+proceeding. The skaters and sportsmen were hurriedly called on board;
+but before steam could be raised the opportunity was lost. In navigating
+these waters it is necessary to be constantly on the alert, and
+prepared, at any moment, to take advantage of any chance that may occur;
+but with the small quantity of fuel we have remaining, it is also
+necessary to economize and husband that essential aid to advance as much
+as possible; our fires were therefore always kept low, except when the
+engines were actually working.
+
+A small fragment of driftwood was picked up on the island. It resembled
+some hard wood, but was so wasted and worn by attrition that it was
+impossible, without subjecting it to microscopic examination, to
+determine to what species it belonged.
+
+The large island off which we were secured, and which forms the main
+protection to Discovery Harbour, was named Bellot Island, after the
+distinguished young French naval officer who lost his life whilst
+zealously prosecuting the search for Sir John Franklin and his ill-fated
+companions.
+
+_Saturday, August 28th._--A thick fog in the morning effectually
+frustrated all our hopes of advancing; but clearing up towards midday,
+we were rejoiced at seeing several leads through the ice in the
+direction of Cape Beechey.
+
+Steam was quickly raised; but, in attempting to cant, the ship took the
+ground, and much to our chagrin and disappointment remained immovable.
+This was indeed tantalizing, as we knew by sad experience how capricious
+were the motions of the ice, and that every moment was of the utmost
+value to us.
+
+Lightening the ship as much as possible, the rising tide floated her in
+about a couple of hours, and at 5 P.M., having hoisted up all our boats,
+we were again able to proceed.
+
+As we rounded the point we hoisted the colours and dipped them three
+times as a parting farewell to our consort, who had just time to whip up
+the signal "Good luck" before we were finally shut out from each other's
+view.
+
+Rounding Distant Cape, we found the channel full of ice, some of the
+floes being very massive and of great extent; but between them existed
+narrow lanes of water, in some places choked by loose slack ice, through
+which we had little difficulty in penetrating, although at the expense
+of our rudder, which was so severely injured by the heavy nature of the
+ice as to be rendered almost useless.
+
+At midnight, when within about a mile of Cape Beechey, ice was
+encountered stretching right across the channel and pressing so tightly
+in to the land as to form a dead block to our farther advance. We had
+then by estimation reached the 82° parallel of latitude. This check was
+a great damper to our hopes, especially as no bays, or protection of any
+description for the ship from the pack, could be found in our immediate
+vicinity.
+
+Our only resource was to return a few miles to the southward and there,
+in a slight indentation of the land, affording little or no protection,
+secure the ship to an ice floe, and employ ourselves at once with the
+rather heavy operations connected with shifting the rudder. This work
+was performed in about three hours. In the mean time, a small herd of
+musk oxen having been observed on shore, our sportsmen were despatched
+in pursuit, and we soon had the satisfaction of hearing that they had
+succeeded in shooting three, the remainder of the herd having escaped
+over the hills. This was a very welcome addition to our stock of fresh
+meat. Our mizzen-rigging was now literally groaning with the amount of
+meat suspended there; for, in addition to the recent accumulation of
+musk-ox flesh, the remainder of our sheep, some seven or eight in
+number, had been slaughtered and added to the general stock. So hard
+were the portions frozen, that they were very truthfully compared to
+the legs of mutton and sides of sheep made of wood usually seen hanging
+in the front of a butcher's shop in a pantomime!
+
+The bay in which we had taken refuge was, in consequence of the work
+there performed, named "Shift-Rudder Bay."
+
+_Sunday, August 29th._--At noon we were again under weigh, Captain Nares
+having ascended a high hill during the forenoon, from which he had
+observed an opening in the pack by which we might proceed. Cape Beechey
+was easily rounded; but, in consequence of the floes closing into the
+land, we had a very narrow escape of being caught whilst going round
+Cape Frederick VII., and it was only by pressing the ship at her utmost
+speed that we succeeded in rounding it in safety. Two minutes after we
+were round, the floe came into contact with the high steep side of the
+cape, crumbling against it and piling up hummock on hummock from the
+irresistible force of the outside pressure. What would have been the
+fate of our poor little frail ship had she been caught between these two
+stupendous works of nature?
+
+The ice had now assumed a totally different character from any that we
+had hitherto seen, being infinitely more massive and heavy. The
+thickness was estimated at from eighty to one hundred feet, whilst the
+hummocks formed along the shore and round the edges of the floes were
+fully twenty-five and thirty feet in height.
+
+These large hummocks received from us the name of "floe-bergs," the term
+being intended to convey the idea of masses of ice more bulky than
+ordinary hummocks, and formed in a different way. Some of these huge
+fragments that fringed the coast line were fully sixty feet in height,
+yet they were _aground_ in some ten and twelve fathoms of water! This
+will give some idea of the massive nature of the ice with which we were
+contending. The region of icebergs, the creation of land glaciers, had
+been passed, and in their place were substituted these floe-bergs, the
+production of a floating glacier.
+
+To contend with this massive ice required the greatest care and
+judgment, for little respect is shown to the unfortunate vessel that is
+exposed to the fatal embrace of what has been aptly termed by our old
+Arctic navigators "ye unmercifull yce." Before midnight the ship was
+secured to a large floe in Lincoln Bay, the pack having again closed in
+to the land, thereby obstructing our advance.
+
+The positions of the different bays and headlands on the western side of
+Robeson Channel we found strangely at variance with the positions
+assigned to them on the latest American chart; indeed, the shore, as
+delineated, was quite unrecognizable. The land on the opposite side of
+the channel seemed, on the contrary, to be very accurately laid down.
+
+With the exception of a little lemming (_Myodes torquatus_), captured by
+Captain Nares when he landed in the morning, a solitary dovekie (_Uria
+grylle_), fluttering about in the ice-encumbered waters, was the only
+living thing seen during the day. The first-named little animal was the
+first of its species caught alive, and excited considerable interest,
+every one being desirous of obtaining a peep at the diminutive little
+quadruped. One man, more fortunate than his messmates, was literally
+besieged, by those less lucky than himself in seeing the animal, with
+numerous questions regarding its appearance. When asked its colour the
+man hesitated, finding it difficult to describe; but suddenly
+brightening up he said, "Why, _lemon_ colour, of course!" an answer that
+appeared quite satisfactory, agreeing, as it did, so well with its name!
+
+These little mouse-like creatures are the smallest, yet the most
+numerous and common, of all quadrupeds in the Arctic regions. They are
+extremely pugnacious and fearless, and often attract attention, when
+they would otherwise be unobserved, by their shrill cries of rage at an
+approaching step. They hibernate in burrows under the snow, and live
+during the summer on the scant vegetation of these regions. When roasted
+and served up on toast, like sparrows, they were found to be excellent
+eating, although provokingly small.
+
+On the same hill where the capture of this little animal was effected,
+our naturalist picked up a marine shell (_Astarte borealis_), about a
+mile from the beach, and at least a hundred and fifty feet above the
+level of the sea. This shell was in excellent preservation, the
+epidermis still adhering, and in a perfect state.
+
+The apparent freshness of this specimen gave rise to many conjectures
+regarding the theory of the upheaval of the land, the evidence pointing
+conclusively to its being both recent and rapid. These regions offer a
+wide field for the geologist and student of natural history.
+
+_Monday, August 30th._--During the forenoon, there being no prospect of
+pushing forward, a large depôt of provisions, consisting of one thousand
+rations, was landed. This depôt was established for the use of
+travelling parties from the "Discovery," or from our own ship should it
+be determined to despatch any to the southward. It was not without some
+difficulty that the heavy casks were transported from the boats to a
+suitable position sufficiently removed from the encroachments of the
+pack. Their transit was only effected by a nautical process known as
+"parbuckling," by which casks and barrels are either hauled up or
+lowered down steep inclines.
+
+On the brow of the hill immediately above the depôt a large cairn was
+erected, in which the usual records were deposited; the provisions
+themselves being so placed as to form a very conspicuous landmark to any
+ship passing to the northward, or to any sledge party travelling along
+the coast line. Whilst engaged in these operations, the pack was
+observed to slacken considerably, several leads of water opening to the
+northward, which we fondly hoped would afford us an easy passage towards
+the attainment of that object which was ever uppermost in our thoughts,
+and for which we were ready and willing to make any sacrifice--the
+object of exploring the unknown region, and of reaching a high northern
+latitude.
+
+Steam was accordingly quickly raised, and another attempt made to
+proceed; but alas! having incautiously been tempted by promising lanes
+of water to stray farther from the land than had hitherto been our
+custom, we were soon hopelessly beset by very heavy ice, of at least
+eighty or one hundred feet in thickness, and fully ten feet above the
+surface of the water. So high was it that our boats, suspended at the
+davits, were seriously endangered, and had in consequence to be "turned
+in" to avoid being crushed altogether. We were, fortunately, surrounded
+by loose pieces of broken-off ice, which acting as cushions between the
+ship and the more massive floes, thereby saved the "Alert" from an
+unpleasant nip. As there was no saying when we might be deprived of the
+friendly aid of these "buffers," by any sudden movement of the pack,
+steam was kept ready in both boilers in order that we might take
+immediate advantage of any such motion for the purpose of extricating
+our vessel from her very unpleasant and perilous position.
+
+An anxious night was spent by all on board, and many ineffectual
+attempts were made to push our way through cracks in the pack that
+appeared to be inclined to open. Sleep was out of the question--indeed,
+was hardly thought of--every one being prepared, with his little bag of
+necessaries, to abandon the ship when such an order, which seemed
+inevitable, should be given.
+
+On the following day, by dint of much labour, a space was cleared round
+the stern of the vessel, which enabled us to ship our rudder, and, the
+ice having slackened a little, by constantly steaming ahead and astern
+we succeeded in clearing a larger space in which the ship could be
+worked, when, boldly attacking the pack, we forced our way through, and
+with relieved minds and thankful hearts extricated ourselves from our
+dangerous position, and once more secured the ship in Lincoln Bay. The
+time occupied in steaming through the pack, a distance of about a mile,
+was exactly five hours!
+
+The ice was observed to be still tightly packed against Cape Union, and
+consequently hindered us from pushing on.
+
+We had much reason to be grateful for our safe deliverance from the
+pack, for, shortly after our extrication, a heavy gale sprang up from
+the S.W., the effect of which on the ship, beset in such ponderous ice,
+must have been disastrous in the extreme, and would in all probability
+have been fatal. Ice navigators, however, are not, as a rule, prone to
+indulge in ideas as to "what _might_ have occurred had this or that
+happened:" their thoughts and minds must be directed entirely to the
+present and the future, only too happy and thankful, as the days go by,
+to find they still have their own good vessel to sustain them, and carry
+them through another day. To our engines we owed a deep debt of
+gratitude, for without the powerful aid of steam we should have been
+unable, before the gale burst upon us, to have effected our deliverance.
+
+Towards midnight the gale freshened considerably, snow fell, and the
+weather altogether had a very ugly and threatening appearance. We,
+however, consoled ourselves with the hope that it would clear the ice
+out of the channel, and thus enable us to proceed. The noise of the pack
+grinding and squeezing as it was tossed about by a short turbulent sea
+was anything but pleasing to listen to, resembling in a measure the
+sound created by the dashing of the surf over a rock-bound coast. One
+can easily imagine the feelings of those old navigators, in their frail
+little barks, which gave rise to the expression that "the irksome noyse
+of the yce bred strange conceits among us." Very "irksome" indeed was
+that noise to us, and many were the "strange conceits" that we indulged
+in as we listened to the soughing of the wind and the crashing of the
+ice!
+
+_Wednesday, September 1st_, must always be regarded, at least by all
+those connected with, or interested in, Arctic research, as a red-letter
+day in the annals of naval enterprise, and indeed in English history,
+for on this day a British man-of-war reached a higher northern latitude
+than had ever yet been reached by any ship, and we had the extreme
+gratification of hoisting the colours at noon to celebrate the event.
+
+Never was an ensign hoisted by such a number of eager and willing hands.
+All were desirous of participating in this act, and of sharing the
+honours of this important proceeding.
+
+Our success in thus attaining a high position was due entirely to the
+S.W. gale, which blew with such fury, that by nine o'clock in the
+forenoon the pack was driven so far off the land that a narrow channel
+of water was left extending to the northward along the coast line. We
+were not long in availing ourselves of this grand opportunity. The ice
+anchors were quickly hauled on board, sail was made, and, with the steam
+ready in case it should be required, we were soon bowling along at the
+rate of ten knots an hour, "and _northwards_ aye we fled." So far had
+the pack been blown off the shore, that the channel of water was fully
+three miles in breadth.
+
+It would be impossible to describe the feelings of those on board the
+"Alert" at this unexpected piece of good fortune; for the lateness of
+the season, combined with the unprecedented solidity of the ice, had in
+a measure damped our ardour and forced us to realize the apparent
+hopelessness of attaining, this year, a high northern latitude. Eagerly
+and anxiously were the different reports from the crow's-nest listened
+to, and still to the delight of all came down the cheery words, "Water,
+plenty of water ahead, and no ice in sight."
+
+Every one was joyous and elated as, at noon, they assembled round the
+ward-room table to inaugurate, in a glass of Madeira, generously
+supplied by our wine caterer, the auspicious event, and to wish success
+to their flag.
+
+Unfortunately snow was falling heavily, and the weather was so thick
+that little could be seen. We could just make out that the land along
+which we were steering, and which trended to the N.E., was composed of
+high cliffs with numerous ravines and valleys running down to the
+water's edge; but, to our disappointment, we failed to observe either
+harbour or bay, or any place that would afford a refuge or protection of
+any description for the ship. Arctic navigation, like everything else,
+has its dark as well as its bright side!
+
+After rounding Cape Union the coast trended away to the westward of
+north, and the wind, which had hitherto been blowing so fresh, suddenly
+subsided. So did our joyful anticipations, for one short hour after our
+ensign had fluttered out so gaily before the breeze, we were stopped by
+a barrier of ice of great thickness, through which there was no prospect
+of penetrating. The land also appeared to lose the bold rugged character
+that had been such a prominent feature between Lincoln Bay and Cape
+Union, and now assumed an undulating form as it trended away to the
+N.W., the coast being low and entirely covered with snow.
+
+Having set our minds at rest that a farther advance, for the present,
+was perfectly impracticable, we reluctantly retraced our steps to the
+southward for about a mile, and secured the ship inside a fringe of
+grounded floe-bergs that lined the coast and which promised to afford us
+protection, in fact, the only protection, from the irresistible pressure
+of the pack. A depôt of provisions, consisting of two thousand rations,
+was immediately landed, in order to guard against all accidents that
+might happen to the ship, and also to be of use to our southern
+travelling parties, should we succeed in reaching a higher latitude in
+the ship. The weather still continued thick; but during a clear interval
+we succeeded in getting a good view to the northward from the summit of
+a hill about two hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. But
+it was a most cheerless scene that presented itself in that direction.
+Nothing but ice, tight and impassable, was to be seen--a solid
+impenetrable mass that no amount of imagination or theoretical belief
+could ever twist into an "open Polar Sea"!
+
+We were reluctantly compelled to come to the conclusion that we had in
+reality arrived on the shore of the Polar Ocean; a frozen sea, of such a
+character as utterly to preclude the possibility of its being navigated
+by a ship; a wide expanse of ice and snow, whose impenetrable fastnesses
+seemed to defy the puny efforts of mortal men to invade and expose their
+hitherto sealed and hidden mysteries. Still we did not give up all hope
+of reaching a higher northern position in the ship. We knew the
+wonderful effect that a gale of wind would produce on the pack, and we
+hoped when the weather cleared, we should still be able to see, and
+reach, land to the northward.
+
+For the present then we could only put our trust in Providence, who had
+already guarded and favoured us almost beyond our most sanguine
+expectations, and pray that He might still continue to watch over and
+protect us, and grant us such a measure of success as would increase our
+knowledge of this world and thereby add to His glory.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+FLOE-BERG BEACH.
+
+
+  "The cold earth slept below,
+   Above the cold sky shone,
+   And all around
+   With a chilling sound,
+   From caves of ice and fields of snow
+   The breath of night like death did flow
+   Beneath the sinking moon."
+
+     SHELLEY.
+
+In order more effectually to ensure the safety of the ship, the men were
+at once employed in removing a large quantity of loose ice, directly
+inside the line of friendly floe-bergs, so as to allow the vessel to be
+hauled farther in and thus obtain more complete protection from the
+encroachments of the pack. This was no easy work, for the wind had again
+sprung up and blew with terrific violence, whilst the temperature had
+fallen as much as ten degrees below the freezing point.
+
+Before we had succeeded in completing our preparations a violent squall
+struck the ship, the lines by which she was temporarily held parted, and
+we were blown clean out from our harbour of refuge. Steam was instantly
+raised, and an anchor let go, which fortunately brought us up. During
+the succeeding hours the gale blew with increased fury, but being an
+off-shore wind, we were in a measure protected, whilst it had the effect
+of driving the pack off, so as to raise our hopes at the prospect of
+again proceeding northward.
+
+Suddenly, without any warning, the wind shifted, and drove the whole
+body of the pack towards the land. Our danger now was imminent. To be
+caught between the fast closing ice and the grounded floe-bergs would be
+certain destruction, to escape to the southward before the pack impinged
+on Cape Union was quite out of the question, and to steam into the pack
+would be madness. Our only hope of safety was to endeavour to haul the
+ship inside the grounded floe-bergs, and again avail ourselves of their
+friendly protection. No time was to be lost; it was a case of almost
+life and death to us. The men, always to be depended upon in a crisis
+like the present, responded to the call with alacrity, and by dint of
+hard work we succeeded in hauling the ship into a safe position. We were
+not a moment too soon: it was a race between the ice and the ship, in
+which the latter was, fortunately for us, the victor. Scarcely had we
+reached our place of refuge when the pack came into contact with the
+bergs, scrunching and squeezing in a most unpleasant manner as it swept
+by, and serving to illustrate, in a very practical way, the dreadful
+fate to which we should have been subjected had we not been fortunate
+enough to escape in time.
+
+It is difficult to imagine a more desolate position to pass a winter
+than the one in which we were placed. Our ship was on an exposed and,
+apparently, unsafe coast, without even the protection of a bay, within
+one hundred yards of a low undulating beach, on which, should any
+extraordinary pressure of the pack destroy our protecting bergs, we must
+inevitably be forced and wrecked, exposed to all the rigours of an
+Arctic winter; and yet, notwithstanding these unenviable drawbacks, the
+official announcement that this place had been decided upon as our
+winter quarters was received with a deep feeling of relief and
+thankfulness. This determination was not, however, arrived at for some
+days, when, from careful watching of the pack, it was decided that a
+farther advance was absolutely impossible.
+
+Winter was advancing upon us with rapid strides, eager to seize us in
+its icy grasp; so quickly, indeed, that in two days we were able to
+_walk on shore_ on the new and rapidly forming ice. The now steadily
+falling temperature was another and a sure indication that the navigable
+season was at an end.
+
+Without a harbour or projecting headland of any description to protect
+our good ship from the furious gusts that we must naturally expect, the
+"Alert" lay, apparently, in a vast frozen ocean, having land on one
+side, but bounded on the other by the chaotic and illimitable polar
+pack.
+
+The land had already assumed a wintry aspect, and the ship, to be in
+unison with her surroundings, had also put on a garb of snow and ice,
+each spar and each rope being double its ordinary thickness from the
+accumulation of frost rime. Everything was white, solemn, and motionless
+around us; no voice of bird or beast was heard to disturb the silence.
+All was as still and silent as the tomb--a silence that until then had
+never been broken by the presence of man.
+
+  "No other noyse, nor people's troublous cries,
+   As still are wont to annoy the walled towne,
+   Might there be heard, but carelesse quiet lyes,
+   Wrapt in eternal silence far from enemyes."
+
+Night, to which we had long been strangers, gradually came upon us, the
+darkness increasing perceptibly as each day passed away. From the 3rd of
+September, on which day the sun set at midnight, the days decreased in
+length, and the stars were again seen to twinkle in the heavens.
+
+From a neighbouring hill we obtained a clear and unobstructed view of
+our surroundings. The coast continued to the N.W. in a succession of
+large bays, terminating in an abrupt cape some forty miles distant. In
+order to assimilate the names of the various bays and headlands with
+those of the American chart, this extreme point was called Cape Joseph
+Henry. Beyond Cape Joseph Henry all was conjecture. It might be the
+southern extreme of a large bay or inlet, or it might be the northern
+termination of land. No land of any description could be seen to the
+northward--nothing but the rugged pack. So formidable and compact
+appeared this icy barrier that it seemed to stand out bold and resolute
+in its strength, effectually setting at defiance the puny efforts of man
+to penetrate its solidity, saying, as it were, "Thus far shalt thou go,
+and no farther." And, indeed, we had much cause to be thankful to Him
+who had hitherto watched over and protected us in many dangers, and who
+had allowed us to penetrate thus far into this remote and unknown
+portion of the globe.
+
+A long range of high hills could be seen to the westward, whilst on the
+opposite side of the channel the distant land of Greenland was
+indistinctly observed, its most northern point bearing about N.E.
+(_true_).[1]
+
+The positions of the northern extremes of land, on either side of the
+channel, were, for a time, a matter of some uncertainty, and it was
+really doubtful which was situated in the highest latitude. It was not
+until after the return of the autumn sledging parties that this
+important question was definitely decided, the land on the western side
+proving to be nearest the Pole.
+
+It must not be imagined, because farther progress in the ship had
+ceased, that our labours had in any way diminished; on the contrary, we
+felt that our real work was about to commence: a work in which we should
+all share in a greater or less degree, and a work the achievement of
+which had been our sole engrossing thought since leaving England.
+
+Before finally deciding upon the position of our winter quarters,
+Captain Nares was desirous of ascertaining whether a more protected spot
+could be found for the ship in the numerous bays to the N.W. than the
+exposed position she then occupied.
+
+Accordingly, early on the 5th of September, Aldrich and myself started
+away with a couple of sledges, each drawn by a team of eight dogs, under
+the guidance of Frederic the Eskimo, and Petersen, the Danish
+dog-driver. Our route lay along the edge of the coast, where, at times,
+we were able to take advantage of the ice-foot on which to travel; but
+as a rule there was no continuity of this land-ice, and we were
+compelled to strike across an undulating country, deeply covered with
+snow, ascending hills frequently as high as two and three hundred feet
+above the level of the sea, whence we obtained good views of the
+surrounding country. The general direction in which we travelled was
+N.W., the coast line being a series of indentations in the land, some of
+such a size as to form fine harbours and bays; but, alas! they could not
+be utilized for our ship, for they were rendered unapproachable by a
+chain of high hummocks extending in every case across the entrances,
+whilst the water in the harbours appeared to be permanently frozen, and
+therefore inaccessible for a vessel.
+
+It was a novel sensation to us to be thus dashing along on our light
+sledges, exploring a perfectly unknown country: a wild and barren tract
+of land, a snow-covered expanse, receding from our view in long
+undulations into the interior, until lost amongst the high
+conical-shaped hills of from one to two thousand feet in height, that
+invariably form the chief feature of Arctic scenery in these high
+latitudes. At noon we made a brief halt for luncheon, our appetites
+having been rendered doubly keen by the sharp cold air of a temperature
+some twenty degrees below freezing point; but which had, until the halt
+was called, been unheeded, the constant jumping on and off the sledge
+and assisting the dogs over difficulties having kept us in a perfect
+glow. Innocently pulling off our mitts, we commenced a vigorous
+onslaught upon the Australian beef with which we had supplied ourselves;
+but the first contact of our fingers with the handles of the knives
+proved the folly of such a proceeding, and compelled us again to resume
+our mitts. These, however, were now frozen so hard that they were with
+difficulty put on! Petersen using a tin cup to drink a little rum mixed
+with snow, and disregarding his mitts, burnt his hand rather severely,
+whilst we were all obliged to rub the edge of the cup well with our
+hands before putting it to our lips!
+
+These little inconveniences were to us a source of great merriment; in
+fact, they must really be experienced before they can be properly and
+thoroughly appreciated!
+
+The Eskimo dogs appear to me to be very differently constituted to their
+more civilized brethren. In England a halt for lunch whilst shooting is
+a signal for all the dogs to assemble and importune for fragments of the
+feast, which they greedily devour. My own dog "Nellie" would never be
+satisfied without obtaining a very large share of any impromptu meal.
+With the Eskimo dogs it is quite different. As soon as the sledges are
+halted they lie down and sleep, and rarely attempt to move until they
+are required to do so. Should a piece of meat be thrown to them they may
+condescend to swallow it; but they turn up their noses at a piece of
+biscuit, utterly despising it as an article of food. Yet these dogs are
+excessively voracious, and always hungry! Nothing in the shape of fresh
+meat, or even skin, is safe from their insatiable voracity; even the
+thongs that are used for lashing the different parts of a sledge
+together, unless they have been well rubbed over with tar, are unsafe,
+and will most assuredly be gnawed off. Notwithstanding this, they have
+little liking for cooked meat, positively refuse biscuit, and are not
+troublesome when they observe you eating.
+
+We were _en route_ again directly our luncheon was consumed, the dogs
+starting off with renewed vigour and speed after their short rest, when
+we came suddenly upon a precipitous ravine, almost too late to stop our
+team in their headlong career. By springing out of the sledge and
+holding on with might and main, we just succeeded in stopping them in
+time, pulling up almost on the very brink of the precipice. Retracing
+our steps for a short distance, we left the hills, and continued our
+course along the coast line, until our farther progress was checked by
+water, a channel connecting two large bays, which from their shape
+afterwards went by the name of Dumb-bell Bay.
+
+[Illustration: DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES.]
+
+Swimming about in this little sheet of water was a small flock of
+eider-ducks, eleven in number, that appeared to be as much surprised at
+beholding us as we were at seeing them. They did not, however, seem
+disposed to fly away. The only weapon we had was a rifle with twelve
+rounds of ammunition. With this we commenced hostilities, rejoicing in
+the anticipation of a fresh-meat meal when we returned to the ship. So
+utterly unconcerned did they appear that we actually succeeded in
+shooting five before the remainder took flight; but to our great chagrin
+we were unable to possess ourselves of any of our victims, as they had
+unfortunately all fallen into the water _just_ out of our reach. This
+was very tantalizing, as neither of us felt inclined to risk being
+frozen for the sake even of roast duck by plunging in after them. We
+were reluctantly compelled to leave them. During the following week,
+however, they were recovered, having all been frozen together in the
+water. With the exception of these birds, no animal life was seen,
+although we observed numerous traces of ptarmigan and lemmings. Tufts of
+saxifrage and some grasses were seen, but so thickly was the land
+covered with snow that it was impossible to arrive at any conclusion
+regarding the vegetation of the country.
+
+In consequence of the report that we brought back, Floe-berg Beach was
+decided upon as the position of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and
+preparations were immediately made for securing the ship, and for making
+as extensive an exploration of the land to the northward as the duration
+of light would admit.
+
+The land in our immediate vicinity was also very naturally an object of
+special interest to us. Speculations were rife regarding its extent and
+formation. The possibility of obtaining game of any description was a
+matter of much importance to us who were doomed to pass so many months
+in these icy solitudes. Alas! any hopes that we had cherished in this
+respect were soon found to be fallacious. The land, for the succeeding
+eight months, proved to be as devoid of life as its appearance was
+sterile and desolate.
+
+On the 9th of September Aldrich went away with the dog-sledges,
+accompanied by two or three of his messmates, for three days, for the
+purpose of more thoroughly exploring the country in the hopes of
+obtaining game.
+
+On the 11th I left the ship with Parr and Egerton and eighteen men, with
+the object of advancing a couple of boats to the northward along the
+proposed route of exploration. It was thought that they might prove
+useful during the future sledging operations of the expedition. We came
+back in four days, having successfully accomplished our mission.
+
+On our return journey we encountered a furious gale of wind, which broke
+up the ice along the coast line, and forced us to drag our sledges over
+the hills, the summits of which were almost bare, the force of the gale
+having blown the snow completely off. Any one who has ever attempted to
+drag a sledge over a rough stony road will know the severe toil and
+labour that is required to be exerted in order to make any progress.
+Crossing a bay we made a short halt for luncheon on the ice, under the
+lee of a high hummock, and narrowly escaped destruction from having
+selected such a spot for a halt. Without our observing it, the ice began
+breaking up, and it was only by strenuous exertions that we succeeded in
+reaching the shore in safety, whence we observed the ice on which we had
+recently been encamped drifting in small fragments to seaward. If this
+disruption had not been observed in time, nothing short of a miracle
+could have saved us.
+
+The violence of the gale was so terrific that pebbles and shingle were
+blown along by its force, mercilessly striking our faces and causing
+acute pain. Still we had to struggle onwards, for there was no possible
+lee under which we could pitch our tents and obtain shelter. An attempt
+to do so was unsuccessful, and had to be abandoned.
+
+One of the men, failing from sheer exhaustion, had to be carried on the
+sledge. This seriously added to our difficulties, for it increased the
+load which the wearied sledgers had to drag, whilst it diminished the
+power of the draggers. But the indomitable spirit and pluck of the
+British sailor overcame all obstacles, and after an arduous march of
+eighteen hours in the face of a furious hurricane, we arrived, to our no
+small relief, alongside the "Alert." Never was a goal attained with more
+pleasure and satisfaction than was our Arctic home reached that night by
+the fatigued and half-blinded sledge travellers. Untrained as they were,
+this forced march had seriously overtaxed their strength and entailed
+much suffering. Some few were, on their return, placed under the
+doctor's hands.
+
+Meanwhile those remaining on board the ship, but few in number, spent an
+anxious and trying time.
+
+The young ice, by which the ship was surrounded, had been completely
+broken up by the fury of the gale, and had disappeared; and had it not
+been for the protecting grounded floe-bergs, small mercy would have been
+shown to the good ship "Alert," by "ye thick-ribbed ice."
+
+Small fragments of the pack, large enough, however, to be unpleasant
+and disagreeable neighbours, would occasionally find their way between
+the floe-bergs, and drift about in our immediate vicinity. These it was
+our object to secure as speedily as possible, otherwise their incessant
+movement backwards and forwards with the tide would break up the young
+ice, or even prevent it from forming. The ominous grinding noise of the
+pack, as it swayed to and fro in the channel, and the terrible war that
+appeared to be raging between the floes as they came into furious
+contact with each other, pulverizing their sides or rending huge
+fragments from their edges, was a sound and sight that struck us with
+wonder and awe.
+
+The grandeur and solemnity of the scene gave rise to thoughts of our own
+weakness and insignificance amidst these wonders of the far north.
+
+On the morning after our return on board, the wind having subsided
+considerably, and a large channel of water existing between the land and
+the pack, Captain Nares determined upon seeking more secure and
+sheltered winter quarters in one of the numerous bays immediately to the
+northward of our present position, in the hope that the gale would have
+broken up the ice and so afforded us an entrance.
+
+Steam was quickly raised and the rudder shipped; but from some, at that
+time, unknown cause we were unable to lower the screw into its place, or
+rather to enter the shaft. Our chance therefore of getting away was
+lost, as before midnight the gale was blowing as furiously as ever. The
+following day, however, the weather again cleared up, and renewed
+attempts were made to ship the screw, but always without success. Whilst
+so engaged a shift of wind occurred, and we had the mortification of
+seeing the whole body of the pack close the channel of water and resume
+its place along the coast, where it remained during the entire winter,
+effectually sealing us up. We had good reason to be thankful to our
+screw for causing our detention, for a subsequent examination of the
+coast proved only too plainly that the ice had not been broken up and
+blown out of any of the harbours that we should have sought, and that we
+should not have found any better sheltered position than the one we then
+occupied. In all probability we should have been caught by the fast
+closing ice--an occurrence rather unpleasant even to speculate upon. We
+afterwards discovered the reason for the failure of our attempts to ship
+the screw. On lowering it into the water, the ice formed so quickly in
+the "boss" that it effectually prevented the shaft from entering!
+
+The ship was now secured by lines to the floe-bergs, and by anchors and
+cables to the shore, until she should be permanently frozen in.
+
+We also busily engaged ourselves in making the necessary preparations
+for the autumn sledging operations. Travelling garments were issued,
+tents thoroughly overhauled, and sledges prepared.
+
+On the 22nd of September Aldrich was despatched with three men and two
+dog-sledges, provisioned for fourteen days, as a sort of pioneering
+expedition; his orders being to proceed, if possible, as far as Cape
+Joseph Henry, there to erect a cairn and deposit a record with full
+information regarding the practicability of travelling, that would be of
+use to the main party which would follow him in a few days.
+
+By the 25th the ice had again formed around the ship, and was of
+sufficient thickness to bear heavy weights. This was the day selected
+for the departure of the sledging parties. The force consisted of three
+eight-men sledges, officered by Parr and May, the whole under my
+command. My sledge was named the "Marco Polo;" Parr's, the "Victoria;"
+and May's, the "Hercules." My orders were to advance as far to the
+northward, along the land, as possible, and at our extreme position to
+establish a large depôt of provisions in readiness for the use of the
+main exploring parties that would be despatched in that direction during
+the ensuing spring. Our provisions were all carefully weighed and
+packed; the maximum weight dragged by each man on leaving the ship was
+201 lbs., decreasing at the rate of 3 lbs. per diem due to the
+consumption of provisions. The slight experience that we obtained during
+the previous few days' sledging stood us now in good stead; the men who
+had recently been so employed being regarded as veterans in sledge work
+by those who were for the first time being initiated into its mysteries.
+All started in the very best spirits, animated by the same desire to do
+their utmost, and to achieve, so far as in them lay, success and honour
+for the expedition.
+
+The details connected with the sledging operations must have a chapter
+to themselves. I make no apology for not entering more fully into the
+journeys performed by Aldrich and others, as the description of one
+sledging expedition suffices for all, and I am, of course, best able to
+describe those in which I was myself personally engaged.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] All compass bearings referred to are _true_, unless stated to be
+    _magnetic_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+AUTUMN TRAVELLING.
+
+
+  "When suddenly a grosse fog over spred,
+     With his dull vapour all that desert has,
+   And heaven's cheerfull face enveloped;
+     That all things one, and one as nothing was,
+     And this great universe seemed one confused mass.
+
+  "Thereat they greatly were dismay'd, ne wist
+     How to direct theyr way in darknes wide;
+   But feared to wander in that wastefull miste,
+     For tombling into mischiefe unespyde:
+     Worse is the danger hidden than descride."
+
+     SPENSER.
+
+There are, I am sure, many among those "who stay at home at ease" who
+have little or no idea of what sledge travelling in the Arctic Regions
+is like, and who even fail to realize that it entails hard work of any
+description.
+
+Their imaginations picture the travellers seated on sledges, comfortably
+wrapped up in shawls and furs, and drawn by a team of dogs or reindeer
+gaily caparisoned, with their bells jingling as they dash along at a
+rapid pace over a smooth plain of snow and ice. They imagine that after
+the toil of the day is over a large fire is built up, and, having
+obtained some salmon, venison, or other product of the chase, a
+sumptuous meal is cooked and discussed, after which the sledge
+travellers compose themselves to sleep in a nice warm snow-house or
+wooden hut constructed by their attendants. All this sounds very
+delightful, and is, to my personal knowledge, believed to be a fairly
+true picture of Arctic life by a large majority of people. Unfortunately
+it is the very reverse of sledge life on the shores of the Polar Ocean.
+Let us see what it is like in reality. There, great climatic hardships
+have to be endured, combined with physical labour of no ordinary
+description. No change or variety of any sort can be made in the fare,
+nor can more than a certain allowance be allotted to each individual.
+When that is consumed, hunger must be borne with patience until the time
+has arrived for the next meal, for until that is due nothing is
+obtainable.
+
+For shelter at night time, a tent made of the very lightest material
+(for economy of weight is the most important point to be considered in
+sledge travelling) is all the covering to protect the travellers from
+the furious onslaughts of a biting wind, always accompanied by a
+blinding snow-drift. So searching is the latter that in spite of all
+efforts it will penetrate through every little orifice into the tent,
+covering everything inside with a layer of minute snow crystals, and
+rendering an uncomfortable night still more comfortless and
+disagreeable. Rolled up in their bags, with the hard frozen sea as their
+couch, affording little rest to their aching and frost-bitten limbs, the
+wearied sledgers vainly attempt in sleep to become oblivious to the
+present. As for a fire by which circulation might be restored in their
+numbed extremities, that is quite out of the question. A limited amount
+of spirits of wine, barely sufficient to cook the allowance of
+provisions, is all the fuel with which they are supplied. Even if the
+material for making a fire, such as driftwood, was available, it would
+be impossible to benefit by it, for it could not be lighted in the tent,
+whilst outside, under such circumstances as I have related, it would be
+impracticable.
+
+This is a slight sketch of what has to be endured by the Polar sledge
+traveller; but a cheerful spirit, a contented mind, and an ardent desire
+to achieve success are quite sufficient to enable him to withstand the
+attendant hardships, and even to laugh at and treat them with contempt.
+
+I cannot do better than quote the words of Sir George Nares, who,
+addressing our men before leaving England, whilst explaining to them the
+nature of the work that they were about to engage in, and speaking from
+his own personal previous experience of sledge life, said, "That if they
+could imagine the hardest work they had ever been called upon to perform
+in their lives intensified to the utmost degree, it would only be as
+child's play in comparison with the work they would have to perform
+whilst sledging!"
+
+These prophetic words were fully realized, and were often recalled and
+commented on by the men during their initiation into the work of
+sledging.
+
+The autumn sledge travelling has been alluded to by a very distinguished
+and successful explorer in the Arctic Regions, as "the very acme of
+discomfort." In the accuracy of this statement we, one and all, fully
+concurred.
+
+The principal reasons that sledging at this period of the year is more
+disagreeable than in the spring are, first, because the rapidly
+decreasing light caused by the sun's altitude lessening day by day is
+decidedly opposed to either work or comfort. Before our return from
+sledging, the sun had illumined for the last time, until its
+reappearance the following year, the summits of the snow-covered hills
+in the vicinity of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and had sunk, slowly
+and majestically, beneath the southern horizon, bequeathing to us only
+for a short time a few bright rays until the long polar night wrapped us
+in its sombre mantle, and enveloped us in gloom and obscurity for many
+months.
+
+  "'Tis gone, that bright and orbèd blaze,
+   Fast fading from our wistful gaze;
+   Yon mantling cloud has hid from sight
+   The last faint pulse of quivering light."
+
+A few hours of twilight, therefore, were all we had in which to work.
+Candles we had none. Our breakfast before we started in the morning and
+our supper after we halted in the evening had to be discussed in gloomy
+darkness. Our notes had to be written in our journals before entering
+the tent, even at the risk of frost-bitten fingers.
+
+In the second place, at this time of the year the ice, over which the
+sledges have to be dragged, is of very recent formation, and is
+consequently weak and dangerous. The travellers are therefore more
+liable to immersion by breaking through the thin ice at this period of
+the season than they are during the spring, or indeed at any other time.
+Young, and therefore smooth and level ice, covered with a treacherous
+layer of snow, often entices the unwary to turn from the rougher but
+stronger floes to travel on its flat plain surface. An immersion is
+invariably the result. Sometimes the leading men on the drag-ropes break
+through this weak ice first, and, by so doing, time is given to stop and
+save the sledge; but very often the ice directly under the sledge gives
+way without previous warning, when every effort must be at once directed
+to save the sledge. Although this is always successful it is generally
+at the expense of the greater part of the biscuit, which is so saturated
+with salt water as to be uneatable, and the wetting, and the consequent
+freezing, of the tent with all its appurtenances. Nothing more wretched
+and miserable can be conceived than having to pass the night in a
+stiffly frozen sleeping bag, inside a tent, which at the best of times
+is barely large enough to accommodate the party of men for whom it is
+allotted, but which has been considerably shrunk by being frozen. Not
+the least unpleasant part is the process of pitching it, for having
+become as hard as a piece of board, it is with great difficulty
+unfolded; more especially as this operation has to be performed after
+the fatigues of a hard day's sledging, by wearied men, in such a
+temperature that it is impossible to expose the hands bare to the cold,
+and it must therefore be carried out with mittens on.
+
+The constant wetting of the feet also renders the men more liable to
+frost-bites; whilst the heavy fall of snow, usually experienced in these
+regions during the autumn, renders the work ten times more arduous. For
+the air thus becomes so thick that it is impossible to see many yards
+ahead, and we have to trust solely to a compass as a guide. We might, in
+truth, fairly quote the lines from Spenser's "Faërie Queene," at the
+heading of the present chapter, as illustrating our difficulties in
+this respect--
+
+  "That all things one, and one as nothing was,
+   And this great universe seemed one confused mass."
+
+And lastly this continual breaking through the ice of both men and
+sledge, combined with the heavy and incessant fall of snow, renders the
+task of walking and dragging a sledge one of extreme labour and anxiety.
+These were the little difficulties we had to experience during our
+novitiate in this autumn sledge travelling, and they must be generally
+expected by explorers who go away so late in the year.
+
+[Illustration: START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES.]
+
+In a future chapter I propose to give a full account of the routine of
+sledge life, of the equipment and scale of provisions, and of all other
+details connected with sledging operations in the Arctic Regions. I will
+now, therefore, proceed at once to give a brief account of our journey,
+for the purpose of laying out a depôt in the autumn, which occupied
+three weeks of very severe and harassing work.
+
+At eight o'clock, on the 25th of September, the three officers
+commanding sledges, myself and Lieutenants Parr and May, assembled at
+breakfast in sledging costume, and a rattling good breakfast our caterer
+gave us. At 8.15 our standards were displayed on the sledges, the ship
+hoisting the ensign. At 8.30 the crews took up their stations alongside
+their respective sledges, and the order was given to march. Our men
+stepped out bravely, and as they did so three hearty cheers resounded
+from the ship. I called a halt and returned the salute with as much
+emphasis as twenty-four powerful pairs of lungs could give, and then
+continued the march. The young ice seemed strong enough to bear, so
+leaving the ice foot, on which the travelling was heavy, we ventured on
+the new ice. But we had not gone more than a mile when, to my horror,
+Parr's sledge, the "Victoria," went through! It was a case of all hands
+to the rescue, and after fifteen minutes of hard tugging and hauling we
+succeeded in dragging it upon a firm piece of ice. But everything was
+thoroughly saturated. There was nothing for it but to send back at once
+for another sledge and dry things. This being done, we again proceeded
+for about three miles, when suddenly I heard a crack, and looking round,
+there was my sledge through! We dragged it on shore, and unpacking at
+once, I was glad to find that we had suffered less than the "Victoria;"
+but it was bad enough. Our tent and gear at the top were of course
+saturated, and nearly all our biscuit spoilt. However, I did not think
+it advisable to return, so re-packing we made another start, and shortly
+afterwards were rejoined by Parr. After marching for twelve miles I
+halted for the night with the temperature 3° below zero, the tent frozen
+hard and shrunk considerably. Next day we marched thirteen miles over
+ice whose blue uneven surface was as smooth as glass, making it very
+hard work for the men, who were sorely put to it to maintain their
+footing. They worked splendidly, trudging merrily along, making light of
+the heavy loads and the treacherous ice, thinking only of performing a
+good day's work, and of advancing the depôt as far north as possible.
+
+On the third day, being unable to round a point of land owing to several
+lanes of water, we were obliged to unload the sledges and carry the
+things piecemeal across a neck of land about two miles in width and a
+hundred feet above the level of the sea. On the same evening snow began
+to fall, and from that time it fell incessantly until our return to the
+ship, increasing in depth day by day. This, combined with the softness
+of the snow as it fell, seriously impeded our advance, and we were
+frequently obliged to halt our sledges whilst the men were employed
+clearing a road with the shovels. So impervious was the air, owing to
+the heavy fall of snow, that it was only occasionally that we were able
+to obtain glimpses of the land as we journeyed onwards, rendering it
+most difficult to make out its conformation, or even the direction in
+which the coast line trended.
+
+From the unaccustomed work of dragging, the shoulders of the men began
+to evince symptoms of rawness, although they constantly shifted their
+drag belts from one shoulder to the other. In spite of these little
+drawbacks, and the dull overcast weather that generally prevailed, the
+spirits of the men never flagged, and every night the labour of the day
+would be forgotten, and singing and laughter would be the only sounds
+heard issuing from our little camp, long after we had comfortably
+settled ourselves in our sleeping bags.
+
+It was amusing to listen to the quaint remarks and witty conversation of
+the men, as, reclining in their bags and smoking their pipes, they
+would, regardless of the generally dreaded presence of the commander,
+broach lower deck topics, and freely discuss and criticize them. I was
+much surprised at the extensive Arctic knowledge which they possessed,
+showing that they had read largely on this subject, and were anxious to
+learn yet more.
+
+I must own that the subject of eating and drinking monopolized a very
+large share of the conversation; nor did they only occupy our minds
+whilst awake, for they frequently formed the subject of our dreams. On
+one occasion when I aroused the men in the morning one of them said,
+"Oh! I am sorry you called me so soon, sir, for I was dreaming that I
+was eating plum pudding, and if you had let me finish it would have been
+as good as a breakfast to me!" Gales of wind were, of course, serious
+impediments to our advance, and were of not unfrequent occurrence. They
+invariably necessitated a halt, as, irrespective of the cold wind being
+productive of frost-bites, it was almost impossible to make way through
+the blinding snow-drift, which did not admit of anything being seen even
+at the distance of a yard or two!
+
+On the 4th of October, half our provisions being consumed, and there
+being the prospect of very heavy travelling before us on our homeward
+journey, it was decided to return. The depôt was therefore established,
+on the brow of a ridge just above our encampment. It consisted of 870
+lbs. of pemmican and 240 lbs. of bacon. May and myself pushed on, with
+the object of reaching Cape Joseph Henry; but the weather was too thick
+to obtain any view, and, for the same reason, it was impossible to
+ascertain the trend of the coast or the nature of the travelling to the
+northward. The floes seemed to be composed of very heavy ice, and the
+hummocks were piled up to a great height along the coast, especially off
+any projecting points of land. Lieutenant Aldrich had, however, ascended
+a hill some two thousand feet in height, and was fortunate in having a
+fine clear day. From Cape Joseph Henry the land, he saw, trended away to
+the westward, but there was no indication of anything but the
+impenetrable polar pack to the north. We reached a latitude of about 82°
+50´ N. before turning our steps homewards.
+
+On the return journey the dragging became infinitely more irksome and
+laborious. The snow had accumulated to such a depth as to render some of
+the ravines and promontories almost impassable, being above the men's
+knees nearly all the time. On one occasion we were compelled to take our
+sledges up a range of hills two hundred and fifty feet above the level
+of the sea, in order to pass a precipitous cliff, off which was a stream
+of water, and then to lower them down a steep incline on the opposite
+side. To add to our difficulties, a sudden fall of temperature produced
+many severe frost-bites, principally on the feet and toes. Circulation
+was always restored as speedily as possible by the application of the
+warm hand, and the injured part was then dressed with glycerine ointment
+and lint.
+
+The hills, over which we were obliged to take our sledges, subsequently
+went by the name of the "Frost-bite Range," in consequence of the many
+casualties sustained during the time we were on them.
+
+On the 9th the temperature was 15° below zero, and the boots, stockings,
+and foot wrappers were frozen to the men's feet. On coming down the
+hills the sledges had literally to be lowered to the ice-foot from a
+height of two hundred and fifty feet, at a very steep angle. Thence it
+was necessary to follow the shore, where enormous hummocks of ice were
+piled up, having huge cracks and fissures, into which we sunk to our
+necks in snow. In crossing some sludgy ice between the hummocks, on the
+11th, Lieutenant May unfortunately went through, and was so severely
+frost-bitten that he eventually had to suffer amputation of one of his
+great toes.
+
+The sun set at about one in the afternoon. A glorious sight: the colours
+of the sunrise and sunset seeming to be blended together. This was on
+Tuesday, and at breakfast on the following Friday all the provisions
+would be expended. The 13th was the last day of the sun's appearance.
+
+On the 14th the temperature was down to 25° below zero, and the
+travelling very heavy; but our sufferings were nearly over. At seven we
+sighted the ship, and hoisted our sledge standards. All the officers and
+ship's company came out to meet and help us, and by 8.50 P.M. we were on
+board.
+
+Some of the frost-bites were so severe as to render amputation
+necessary. This arose from the difficulty of finding out the injury in
+time. A frost-bite steals upon one like a thief in the night, and before
+the victim is aware it often happens that mortification has set in. No
+less than half the party were placed on the sick list from being more or
+less severely frost-bitten.
+
+It was a very great relief and comfort to us to be again on board, and
+extremely gratifying to receive such a welcome as that extended to us by
+our messmates. They were already feeling a little anxious at our
+prolonged absence, knowing that we were only provisioned for twenty
+days, and fearing that our return journey would be greatly delayed by
+the late excessive fall of snow.
+
+How comfortable the ward-room looked, with the lamps burning brightly, a
+cheerful fire blazing in the stove, and, what delighted us almost still
+more, a clean white cloth spread upon the table, and on it a sumptuous
+repast, made doubly inviting by a couple of decanters of madeira and
+port! These little comforts and luxuries, though they may appear to
+casual readers unimportant and insignificant, are thoroughly enjoyed and
+appreciated by wearied and foot-sore travellers who have been strangers
+to light, comfort, and a good meal, though only for three short weeks.
+The pleasure of a warm bath and the enjoyment of brushing one's hair are
+beyond all description! We were all a little thinner when we returned;
+but, with the exception of the frost-bites, none the worse for our
+expedition.
+
+So far as the results were concerned we were quite satisfied,
+considering them perfectly successful.
+
+We had established a depôt of provisions some forty miles to the
+northward of the ship, which would very materially assist the sledging
+campaign of the ensuing spring. A large amount of thorough practical
+experience had been gained, which we hoped would bear good fruit in the
+coming year. And we had succeeded in reaching and passing the highest
+latitude attained, to the northward of Spitzbergen, by that
+distinguished Arctic navigator, Sir Edward Parry, forty-eight years
+before, during his memorable journey over the frozen sea towards the
+North Pole.
+
+These were the most important results gained by the autumn sledging.
+
+The disappearance of the sun before our return necessarily prevented a
+more protracted exploration being made. As it was we only had sufficient
+light during midday for a very few hours' work.
+
+Perhaps, as it was our first experience in sledging, it was as well we
+were not able to remain absent for a greater length of time. As an
+instance of the manner in which the different articles increased in
+weight during the autumn travelling, we found on our return to the ship
+that the tent which had previously weighed 32 lbs. had increased to 55
+lbs., the coverlet from 21 lbs. to 48 lbs., the lower robe from 18 lbs.
+to 40 lbs., the floor-cloth from 11 lbs. to 29 lbs., and everything else
+in proportion! This increase is due to the absorption of all moisture,
+which instantly freezes. In the spring, although the temperature is far
+lower, this moisture, even when frozen, is extracted by exposure to the
+sun. In the autumn this is impossible, as the sun has disappeared.
+
+[Illustration: WINTER QUARTERS, H.M.S. "ALERT."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+WINTER QUARTERS.
+
+
+  "Let winter come! let polar spirits sweep
+   The dark'ning world and tempest-troubled deep.
+   Though boundless snows the withered heath deform,
+   And the dim sun _ne'er_ wanders through the storm,
+   Yet shall the smile of social love repay
+   With mental light the melancholy day."
+
+     CAMPBELL.
+
+The sledge travellers having all returned, the necessary preparations
+for passing the winter were immediately taken in hand.
+
+Notwithstanding the loss of the sun, which took its final departure on
+the 11th of October, we had for many days sufficient light, during five
+or six hours of the day, to enable us to carry out the manifold duties
+connected with the preparations for a winter in the Arctic Regions.
+
+Although the ship was completely frozen in, and the ice in which she was
+imprisoned was increasing in thickness day by day, additional
+precautions for her safety were taken by burying a couple of the largest
+anchors on shore, and freezing them into their holes by pouring water
+over them; to these were attached the chain cables. These we felt would
+be a perfect security for us against any off-shore gale.
+
+Provisions in large quantities were landed as a precaution, in case any
+unforeseen event should, during the winter, cause the destruction of our
+ship, and so at one fell swoop deprive us both of home and supplies. Out
+of the casks and cases so landed a spacious house was constructed,
+capable, if necessary, of affording accommodation to our entire party.
+This house, which went by the name of "Markham Hall," was used as a
+receptacle for sails, rope, sledge gear, and all articles that could not
+be conveniently stowed under hatches on board. Its dimensions were
+forty-nine feet long, by twelve feet wide, and ten feet high. The
+mainsail was used to roof it over. It was altogether a very grand
+edifice, and we were, and I think with some reason, very proud at the
+result of our architectural skill.
+
+The building mania seemed to be very prevalent amongst the officers, the
+majority of whom employed themselves in constructing snow-houses for
+various purposes near the ship. One officer went so far as to commence a
+_colonnade_, reaching from the shore to the ship, the pillars to be made
+of frozen blocks of snow, but the undertaking was of too gigantic a
+nature to be carried out with any hope of success, and was abandoned
+after a few days' work.
+
+A wooden observatory, brought out from England for the express purpose,
+was set up for the transit instrument, and this with a house adjoining,
+in which was placed the alt-azimuth instrument, being the head-quarters
+of our astronomical observers, Parr and May, went by the name of
+"Greenwich."
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING THE MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY AT "KEW."
+
+EXPLANATION OF PLAN.
+
+  A   The Unifilar House.
+  B   The Barrow Dip Circle House.
+  C   The Declinometer House.
+  DD  Passage connecting A and B, 37½ ft. in length.
+  EEE The main passage, 120 ft. long.
+  F   Passage leading to Declinometer House, 44 ft. from entrance.
+  G   The main, and only, entrance. Distant from the _Alert_ 504 ft.
+      All houses and passages were "sub-glacial."]
+
+Snow-houses were constructed on shore for the several magnetic
+instruments, and these latter were securely fixed by being firmly frozen
+on snow pedestals. The three houses in which the instruments were
+placed were connected, one with the other, by sub-glacial passages, one
+being no less than a hundred and twenty feet in length. The whole
+establishment, which was most complete and reflected great credit on
+its architect, was called "Kew." Giffard and myself were the two
+officers entrusted with the charge of the magnetic observations, and
+many a cold and comfortless hour had we to spend, in our endeavours to
+add to the slight knowledge we possess in this interesting branch of
+science.
+
+Several other snow-houses were built for various purposes. One was for
+the reception of our powder, as it is most important that such a
+dangerous and combustible article should be removed from the ship, where
+of necessity so many fires have to be kept up. The place in which the
+powder was stored was called "Woolwich." Others were constructed in
+which were deposited all our salt beef for present use, and these
+buildings, of course, went by the name of "Deptford," after our great
+naval victualling depôt in England.
+
+Altogether the neighbourhood of our winter quarters had the appearance
+of a young thriving settlement rapidly springing into maturity,
+rendering what would otherwise have been a barren and desolate scene,
+one of cheerful life and activity.
+
+The salt beef, which was exceptionally tough and salt, more so indeed
+than the ordinary salt "junk" used in the navy, was kept in a
+snow-house; because we found, by experiment, that it was rendered more
+palatable by so doing. In all probability the process of congelation
+tended to extract, or precipitate, a very large portion of the saline
+matter with which it was impregnated, and thus deprived it, to some
+extent, of its hardness and saltness.
+
+By the 26th of October the ship was completely "housed" in by a set of
+awnings, extending from the after part of the top-gallant forecastle to
+the mizzen-mast. This "housing" was made of a material called tilt
+cloth, similar to that used to cover waggons in England. It was spread
+on spars lashed between the masts, having curtains on each side so
+fitted that they could readily and easily be triced up when required for
+purposes of ventilation. Hanging lamps were suspended from the spars
+over the centre of the deck, which were kept alight night and day. The
+funnel, which was provided with a hinge, was lowered down, and formed a
+famous and convenient stow-hole for rope. The number of coils that were
+deposited in it was truly marvellous.
+
+[Illustration: FLAG-STAFF POINT.]
+
+Two gangways were cut in the ship's side: the one on the port side being
+used as the general one for entrance and exit; the one on the starboard
+for carrying out all slops and dirt to a large dirt-heap established
+between the hummocks, some hundred yards from the ship. A smaller
+dirt-heap was temporarily used nearer the ship, the accumulations being
+removed to the larger one once or twice a week.
+
+Although, as a rule, the snow was not well adapted for building purposes
+on account of its consistency, we were able to supply ourselves with
+blocks from certain places where the snow had drifted in large
+quantities and hardened by pressure.
+
+A snow wall, constructed from solid blocks obtained from these quarries,
+was formed round the ship at about six feet distance, and at the height
+of about four feet. When this was completed the space between the ship's
+side and this wall was filled in with snow, reaching as high as the fore
+and main channels, forming a perfectly solid and impervious embankment
+that would effectually aid in preserving the warmth of the ship. The
+upper deck was cleared of all superfluous articles, and was covered with
+snow about twelve inches deep. A layer of gravel and ashes was strewn
+over the surface; but I am not sure that we benefited much by this
+measure, for it was rendered so slippery by being frozen that it was by
+no means an easy matter to walk on it.
+
+All skylights and hatchways were carefully covered up, two only of the
+latter being kept open as a means of ingress and egress. These were so
+constructed with porches and double doors as to prevent the admission of
+the outside air. The doors, being fitted with weights, were made
+self-shutting, so that the closing of one door was insured before the
+opening of the other. Snow walls were also built up round the porches,
+and in fact round the hatchways and skylights not in use, so as to
+render them all the more impervious to the cold air.
+
+Round the funnel of the galley fire there was a large space, inclosed by
+a wall of snow, in which was deposited every morning a supply of ice or
+frozen snow, to be converted into water sufficient to last twenty-four
+hours. The ice for this purpose was procured from a large floe about one
+hundred and fifty yards from the ship, which in all probability was
+formed by the thawing and subsequent re-freezing of the snow on its
+surface. When it was difficult to find work for the men to do outside
+the ship during the winter, they were employed in conveying this ice to
+a large depôt that was formed close to the vessel, protected from the
+Eskimo dogs by a snow wall, from which during gales of wind or other bad
+weather we were able to supply ourselves.
+
+Our boats were all hauled up in a safe position on shore. Sails were
+left bent, but securely furled and covered. Ropes that were not unrove
+were carefully hauled taut, so as to prevent our being kept awake during
+a gale of wind by an uninterrupted "devil's tattoo"--that is, the
+continual flapping of a rope against a spar, which produces a very
+aggravating and monotonous sound.
+
+Former expeditions were supplied with Sylvester's warming apparatus,
+which, by means of pipes leading along the whole length of the ship,
+warmed the "between decks" with hot air. The only means for heating the
+vessel at our disposal were by stoves. These were placed in various
+parts of the ship, and put under the charge of men who were
+periodically selected for this service. Stringent regulations were
+issued regarding the economical consumption of fuel, and also to guard
+against all accidents from fire.
+
+As it is necessary in all ships wintering in the Arctic Regions to
+devote a certain place to the washing and drying of clothes in which a
+high temperature can be constantly kept, we appointed for this purpose a
+compartment on the fore part of the lower deck, commonly called the
+fore-peak. The men had certain days during the week allotted to them for
+the use of this place, and it was found that clothes washed and hung up
+one afternoon would be invariably dry on the following morning.
+
+The vapour arising in this room did not reach the deck on which the men
+lived, but was conveyed through a trap hatch leading into the fore-peak
+to a large space under the top-gallant forecastle, inclosed by a snow
+wall and made its exit through an up-take formed of a piece of
+funnelling. The compartment was heated by a stove, the fire in which was
+kept burning night and day.
+
+The very difficult question of ventilation below was carefully
+considered. It is one of the most important and serious matters that can
+come under the consideration of the commander of an Arctic expedition.
+Nothing is so essential to the preservation of health as the pure and
+free circulation of air on the living deck.
+
+In this respect we were not so well off as our predecessors, for they,
+being supplied with the Sylvester heating apparatus, were able to admit
+a more constant current of air, and thus keep their habitable deck in a
+better state and more free from condensation than ours. We found it a
+very difficult matter to prevent in the slightest degree the
+accumulation of moisture on the beams overhead, caused by the
+condensation formed by the number of people living on the deck, and by
+the vapour arising from the galley fire. Several up-takes and down-takes
+were fitted in holes cut through the upper deck in our attempts to
+remedy this serious defect, but as a rule they had little effect in
+counteracting it. Men were incessantly employed during the winter in
+wiping the moisture off the beams with cloths. If the hatchway doors
+were kept open, even for a short time, this moisture was at once
+converted into ice, which, of course, thawed and dripped immediately as
+the temperature was raised. This drip was a constant source of annoyance
+to us during the whole winter, and it was one to which we had, in part,
+to submit.
+
+Whilst all these necessary preparations for the safety and warmth of the
+ship were being carried out, the comforts of those who were about to
+brave the rigours of an Arctic winter were not forgotten. Warm garments
+were issued, consisting principally of a complete suit of seal-skins and
+warm woollen guernseys. It must not be supposed that our seal-skins were
+of the same material as those soft fur jackets so much in vogue with the
+fair ones at home. Ours were obtained from the ordinary Greenland seals,
+whose skins are covered with coarse bristly hairs. They were,
+nevertheless, quite as warm, and were indeed our favourite articles of
+clothing after the unpleasant aroma, which seems inseparable from
+clothing of this description, had worn off, or until we had become so
+accustomed to it as to fail to notice it!
+
+Carpet boots, or moccasins made of moose-skin, were worn on the feet.
+The former were furnished with tops, made of duffel, reaching as high as
+the knees, and with cork soles over an inch thick. With any temperature
+below zero leather boots and shoes must be discontinued, as they freeze
+so hard that the material loses its flexibility, and renders the foot in
+consequence more liable to frost-bite. Moccasins, worn over a couple of
+pairs of blanket wrappers, and a pair of thick woollen stockings
+reaching above the knee, are undoubtedly the most comfortable foot-gear,
+and the best adapted for low temperatures. Blanket wrappers are, as
+their name indicates, strips of blanket, generally about sixteen inches
+square, worn folded round the feet in lieu of socks and stockings, than
+which they are infinitely warmer.
+
+As a rule, officers and men were dressed alike. Occasionally some of the
+former would make their appearance in long fur coats with hoods that
+they had obtained from the Hudson's Bay Company's store and other places
+in London, but the majority adhered to the clothing supplied to them by
+Government.
+
+A special winter routine was made out, and commenced shortly after the
+return of the sledge parties. It was strictly adhered to through the
+long winter night that ensued.
+
+I must not omit to mention the duty of keeping open the "fire hole"--a
+very necessary and important precaution, that must be taken, in order to
+be able to obtain a supply of water in case of fire breaking out on
+board. As a rule, in all ships that have wintered in the Arctic Regions,
+the water has frozen below the suction valves of the pumps, thus
+rendering them totally useless. In order, therefore, to obtain water, a
+hole was invariably cut through the ice near the ship, which was
+generally placed in charge of the quarter-master of the watch, whose
+duty it was from time to time to clear off the young ice from its
+surface, so that at any moment water might be obtained in buckets. In
+the "Alert," in consequence of our valves being much lower, our pumps
+were never incapacitated from this cause; still they were liable to be
+rendered useless by the water in the pipes becoming frozen. We therefore
+always kept our fire-hole in working order. It was close to the bow of
+the vessel, and was inclosed by a snow hut, so as to guard against the
+danger of anybody falling in whilst walking about in the dark. By fixing
+a tide-pole in the hole, and by devising a self-registering apparatus
+with a line leading from the tide-pole to the forecastle of the "Alert,"
+we were able to obtain a very complete and valuable series of tidal
+observations. From having the registering-gauge on board the ship, these
+observations were continued uninterruptedly, and were unaffected by
+gales of wind or bad weather, that would otherwise have prevented any
+one from going outside the vessel in order to note them.
+
+Thermometric observations were, as may be imagined, very carefully
+attended to, and the temperatures both inside and outside the ship duly
+registered. Maximum and minimum thermometers, by which the greatest heat
+and the greatest cold for each consecutive twenty-four hours were
+recorded, were established in different places, and were noted every day
+at noon by an officer especially appointed for that duty.
+
+Each compartment in the ship was supplied with one of these
+thermometers, and on the living deck the temperatures at three different
+heights--namely, at the deck, about half-way up, and at the beams--were
+daily registered. For the outside air one of the ice-saw triangles was
+erected on the floe, sufficiently distant from the ship to neutralize
+any influence that might be derived from her presence, and on this, at
+the height of about twelve feet, were placed several thermometers. In
+addition to these, there were other thermometers on the hill about a
+quarter of a mile from the ship, and about one hundred yards above the
+level of the sea, so that we were able to obtain a correct mean of the
+true temperature of the air. We were also able to ascertain the
+temperature of the snow, and the ground at different depths; and also,
+by means of solar radiation thermometers, we succeeded, on the return of
+the sun, in getting the temperature due to its rays at various
+altitudes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
+
+
+  "Haste thee, Nymph, and bring with thee
+   Jest and youthful jollity,
+   Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles,
+   Nods, and becks, and wreathed smiles,
+   Sport that wrinkled Care derides,
+   And Laughter holding both his sides."
+
+     MILTON.
+
+Sir Edward Parry, during his first and subsequent winters in the Arctic
+Regions, fully recognized the importance of not only exercising and
+improving the minds of those under his command, during the long period
+of enforced inaction, but also of amusing them, and letting them feel
+that they also were assisting in the amusement of their shipmates. To do
+this he instituted an evening school on the lower deck, the officers
+acting as teachers; and he established periodicals, dramatic and other
+entertainments, in which he himself joined and took a conspicuous part.
+
+His wise example has been generally followed by the different
+expeditions that subsequently wintered in the Arctic Regions.
+
+It is, in fact, very necessary to exercise both the physical and mental
+powers of the men during the dark months, for when once the ship has
+been safely established in winter quarters little work remains to be
+done. The officers are constantly employed in taking and working up
+observations in various branches of science; but the seaman has little
+to do but reflect on, and possibly brood over, his situation. It is,
+therefore, absolutely essential that some means should be devised to
+drive from him all unpleasant thoughts, and to make him feel that it is
+in his power to relieve the tedium of what would otherwise be a long and
+monotonous winter.
+
+Each ship had been provided, before leaving England, with a
+printing-press, and an officer and seaman[1] had been instructed in its
+use.
+
+As soon as it was set up and in working order, the following prospectus
+was issued by the "firm."
+
+
+  "THE ARCTIC PRINTING OFFICE.
+
+  "Messrs. Giffard and Symons beg to inform the public that they have
+  obtained--at an immense cost and with infinite trouble--possession of
+  the extensive premises, lately occupied by Mr. Clements Markham,
+  situated in Trap Lane, within half a minute's walk of the foremost
+  Quarter Deck Ladder, and easily accessible to all parts of the city.
+
+  "They have fitted up their new establishment--_regardless of
+  expense_--with all the _latest inventions_ and _newest machinery_, to
+  enable them to carry on the noble art of printing in a style and with
+  a rapidity hitherto quite unattainable.
+
+  "They therefore expect from the public that support and assistance
+  which it always gives to the _truly deserving_.
+
+  "Charges moderate. No credit given. All work required to be executed
+  to be paid for in advance.
+
+  "N.B. Everything undertaken promptly and correctly executed.
+
+    "H.M.S. 'Alert,'
+
+      "July 28, 1875."
+
+
+The "cost" and "trouble" alluded to in this production, that were
+expended in obtaining a convenient place in which to carry out the
+"noble art of printing," were caused by the fact that our photographers
+were equally anxious, with our printers, to possess themselves of the
+small cabin lately occupied by my cousin, and which is so
+grandiloquently alluded to as "extensive premises." In fact, for some
+little time it was a very sore and vexed question between those two
+celebrated and energetic firms. Trap Lane was so called in consequence
+of the after-hold being immediately outside the door of the cabin; and
+it occasionally served as a very disagreeable kind of man-trap when,
+through inadvertence, the hatch had not been replaced. As this part of
+the ship was, during the early part of her commission, in total
+darkness, owing to the piles of stores that were stowed in every
+available corner, it is no wonder that unsuspecting individuals should
+occasionally have fallen into the trap!
+
+Our printing-press was, it is almost needless to say, of great use to us
+during the winter; for, although it never printed very much for the
+public service, it was constantly called into requisition for the
+purpose of striking off programmes for our dramatic and other
+entertainments; and on such important events as birthdays and
+Christmas-day we indulged in the extravagance of printed bills of fare.
+On the whole the printing establishment on board the "Alert" tended very
+materially to beguile the tedium of our long nights, and must therefore
+be regarded as a decided success.
+
+Our school was opened on the 1st of November; from which date, until the
+reappearance of the sun, the attendance was regular and constant. It was
+composed of nearly the whole ship's company, and was divided into
+classes under the direct superintendence of the officers. Reading,
+writing, history, arithmetic, and navigation were the principal
+subjects in which the pupils were instructed.
+
+The school was held on the lower deck between eight and nine o'clock in
+the evening, the classes occupying the different mess-tables. Only two
+men out of the entire ship's company were unable to read and write, and
+these two men were placed in a class with two others, who were unable to
+read and write English.[2] This class was presided over by the doctor,
+who kindly volunteered to devote himself to the instruction of the
+"cripples," as they were facetiously called.
+
+As an illustration of the improvement which has taken place in the
+education of the men belonging to the Royal Navy during the last
+half-century, it may be mentioned that, whereas in Parry's time it was
+quite the exception to find a man that could read or write, with us the
+exception was entirely the other way, only two men out of fifty-five
+being ignorant of those accomplishments.
+
+Never were seen such painstaking and willing scholars as our men showed
+themselves to be. It is impossible to conceive a more orderly or
+well-conducted school, and it was a pleasure to the masters to devote
+their time to classes that evinced such an earnest desire of acquiring
+knowledge as did those on board the "Alert."
+
+Here might be observed a staid old seaman, whose great brawny hand
+appeared more suited to grasp the marline-spike than the pen, vainly
+endeavouring, with his elbows squared, his weather-beaten face close
+down over his work, and his tongue thrust out, to arrive at some
+satisfactory result in a simple addition sum. As a contrast to this, at
+the opposite table might be seen a smart young sailor, who had distanced
+all his competitors in arithmetic, asking abstruse questions in
+mensuration of such a nature as to make even his tutor feel
+uncomfortable!
+
+After the classes were dismissed, the men enjoyed an uninterrupted
+evening to themselves. Games of various descriptions, such as chess,
+bagatelle, draughts, and cribbage, had been purchased for their
+amusement before leaving England, and were in constant requisition
+during the winter. A large space on the starboard side of the deck,
+abaft the living deck, was allotted to the smokers, and here were held
+our dramatic and weekly entertainments on Thursdays. On Sundays Divine
+service was performed in the same place.
+
+Books were also a source of great amusement and interest to many of the
+men who were studiously inclined, as the well-thumbed volumes in our
+library soon testified. Several men wrote regular journals, which were
+even kept up by a few whilst they were sledging. Amongst the officers,
+chess, backgammon, and a rubber in the captain's cabin, formed the chief
+amusements. Although gambling is discountenanced (or ought to be) on
+board every well-regulated man of war, we so far forgot ourselves as to
+indulge largely in this vice. Seldom was a game played without a stake
+on the result! The stakes, too, were exorbitant, frequently as much as
+one lucifer match per game! It must be remembered that matches were very
+scarce and precious articles with us, and it was therefore a very high
+and valuable stake. On one occasion, one of my messmates was so rash as
+to wager a tallow-candle on the result of a game; but this was an offer
+of such magnitude that no one was sufficiently brave or sporting to
+accept it.
+
+Among the many valuable gifts showered upon us by kind and generous
+friends at home was an excellent piano, and fortunately amongst the
+officers there was a very talented musician, to whose good nature and
+willing efforts to please must be attributed many a pleasant hour, when
+our hearts were warmed by well-known airs bringing back happy home
+memories.
+
+Thursday evenings were always devoted to dramatic entertainments,
+magic-lantern exhibitions, instructive lectures, reading, and music both
+vocal and instrumental. These entertainments were kept up with the same
+spirit, and without a break, during the whole winter. They went by the
+name of our "Thursday Pops," and afforded much pleasure and amusement.
+They were announced to the general Arctic public by the following
+printed notice, which was widely circulated.
+
+
+  H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS.
+
+  On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of
+  popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings,
+  recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble
+  or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great
+  number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be
+  given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row.
+
+  PROGRAMME:
+
+  _Astronomical Lecture_ (with discussion)          Capt. NARES.
+  _Song_     "I knew that I was dreaming"              Mr. GOOD.
+  _Song_     "Watercresses"                         Mr. SHIRLEY.
+  _Reading_  "The Jumping Frog"                        Dr. MOSS.
+  _Song_     "An Englishman am I"                      Mr. CANE.
+  _Song_     "Broken down"                           Mr. BRYANT.
+  _Glee_     "The Wreath"   Messrs. ALDRICH, PULLEN, and RAWSON.
+  _Song_     "The White Squall"                     Mr. MASKELL.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o'clock
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+This was the first notification issued regarding our weekly
+entertainments, and, coming out a day or two before the performance, it
+naturally caused considerable excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic
+playgoing world!
+
+Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the legitimate drama,
+these entertainments were always preceded by a lecture delivered by one
+of the officers, on some interesting and at the same time instructive
+subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence of the audience. A
+list of the lectures so delivered cannot fail to be of interest.
+
+
+  1. On astronomy                     Capt. Nares.
+  2. A few words on magnetism         Lieut. Giffard.
+  3. On geology                       Capt. Feilden.
+  4. A few words on meteorology       Lieut. Aldrich.
+  5. A few words on steam             Mr. Wootton.
+  6. Mock moons under the microscope  Dr. Moss.
+  7. On light                         Lieut. Parr.
+  8. An historical lecture            Mr. White.
+  9. A few words on astronomy         Com. Markham.
+  10. Our food in the arctic regions  Dr. Colan.
+  11. A few words on arctic plants    Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+  12. On hydrostatics                 Lieut. May.
+  13. Sledging experiences            Capt. Nares.
+
+
+Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures, and I have not the
+slightest doubt that all would have done so had there been any more
+Thursdays to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship's
+company, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the readings and songs
+that followed, in the performance of which they all, with only one or
+two exceptions, took part.
+
+[Illustration: ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN AND THE
+WONDERFUL SCAMP."]
+
+The first real dramatic entertainment came off on the following
+Thursday. Our plan was for the men to act one piece and the officers
+another, and this was found to work very well. But the rehearsals were a
+difficulty, and we were frequently compelled to shut ourselves up in our
+own cabins in order to secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable
+us to become perfect in our different parts.
+
+The costumes were, of course, a subject of much discussion and deep
+interest. The making up of dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from
+musk-ox skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and employed minds
+and fingers that had hitherto been strangers to such occupations. Many
+were the needles broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before our
+ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts had to be converted into
+the robes of a lovely oriental princess; old uniform coats were
+beautified with spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable
+habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century; whilst a wicked
+magician, of the Hebrew persuasion, appeared in a coat of unmistakeable
+clerical cut.
+
+Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and the scenic arrangements
+under the direction of Moss, who was also the artist, could not be
+excelled. Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host in himself,
+adding materially to the success of the entertainments. In fact,
+officers and men vied with each other in their endeavours to promote
+amusement and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not of
+the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors fully compensated
+for this deficiency.
+
+We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured critics. These pests do
+not venture across the Arctic Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic
+Theatre (re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came with a firm
+resolve to please or be pleased. Acting upon this determination, our
+entertainments were bound to be successful. The following prologue,
+composed for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the opening of our
+theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of November, 1875.
+
+   "Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day,
+  We bid you welcome to our opening play:
+  You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear
+  Of scornful wit or captious critic here.
+  To-day we welcome you, and not to-night,
+  For all is noon with us--all summer bright;
+  And though the southern sun has ceased to pour
+  His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore--
+  Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold
+  The crystal corners of our hummocks bold;
+  We bear a warm soft light that never fades--
+  A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades;
+  All trustful of each other's love, we learn
+  With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn;
+  And suns may set, and twilights disappear--
+  They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer;
+  Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill
+  Our laughter glad--for laugh, brave boys, we will;
+  Kindling yet once again the genial glow
+  Of happy English homes on Arctic floe.
+
+   "Yet once again; for none would here forget
+  We are but sons of fathers living yet;
+  In work and play alike, we but renew
+  The deeds of men who taught us what to do.
+  And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar
+  To loftier flights than theirs who went before;
+  Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led,
+  In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread;
+  We love to read on history's faithful page,
+  Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage,
+  And boldly for our brave forerunners claim
+  An Arctic 'cast' already known to fame.
+
+   "Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say
+  What we have done to while your hours away.
+  Such as we have, we bring you of our best,
+  And to your kind forbearance leave the rest.
+  One only grief is ours, and you shall share
+  With us the burden of that gentle care.
+  One cherished form we miss--one touch alone--
+  One glance of love--one tender, thrilling tone.
+  Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle
+  The dear ones move, and minister, and smile.
+  We would not wish them here, but this we know,
+  Their thoughts are with us every step we go:
+  Their life sets northward o'er the cold, grey sea:
+  They live in wondering what our life may be;
+  And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul,
+  Till each has found its true magnetic pole.
+
+   "God bless and keep them in His mighty hand--
+  Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!"
+
+The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion the curtain rose,
+and the following programme, showing the plays that were acted and the
+cast of characters, was proceeded with.
+
+
+  THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE
+
+  Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, by the powerful
+  dramatic company of
+
+  HYPERBOREANS!
+
+  Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the
+  Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the
+  neighbourhood.
+
+  The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The
+  manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this
+  company, and has selected none but the very best _artistes_--the
+  ladies being from England--who, having numerous other engagements, can
+  remain for a short time only.
+
+  The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that
+  celebrated artist, Professor Moss, _must_ be acknowledged to be
+  unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order.
+
+  The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from
+  Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience.
+
+  At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce
+
+
+  THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL.
+
+  CHARACTERS:
+
+  Leander Hellespont    Mr. Stuckberry.
+  Mr. Counter Balance   Mr. Woolley.
+  Gratings (Steward)    Mr. Burroughs.
+  Mrs. Hellespont       Mdlle. Francombi.
+  Mrs. Veneer           Mdme. Maskelli.
+
+  Time                 The present day.
+  Scene                Saloon of a Boulogne steamer.
+
+  Interval of ten minutes.
+
+  During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will sing THE
+  IRISH BARBER.
+
+  After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque
+  entitled
+
+
+  VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH.
+
+  CHARACTERS:
+
+  Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the
+    original parient                                     Com. Markham.
+
+  Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original
+    lovier so gallant and gay                             Mr. Egerton.
+
+  William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young
+    apprentice, in desperate love with                     Mr. Rawson.
+
+  Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned
+    soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid Vilikins   Mdlle. Blanc.
+
+  Scene 1    Lawn of Gruffin's house.
+  Scene 2    Interior of Gruffin's house.
+  Scene 3    Lawn of Gruffin's house.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+
+This, the first appearance of the "Hyperboreans," was eminently
+successful, and elicited both laughter and applause from our very
+appreciative and demonstrative audience. Mademoiselle Blanc (Mr. White)
+made a fascinating little Dinah of six feet high, dressed in a Dolly
+Varden costume, whilst the other ladies were all that could be desired,
+and looked charming in their gorgeous silk and muslin dresses.
+
+In this respect we had a decided advantage over our consort, the
+"Discovery;" for her space on board being somewhat limited, the building
+of an ice theatre on the floe became necessary. Here, though the
+building was spacious and elegant, the temperature was rarely above
+zero! The ladies were therefore unable to indulge in low dresses, and a
+close observer might have detected underclothing composed of seal-skins
+beneath their otherwise gay and brilliant costumes.
+
+Occasionally, as the two following bills will show, we were agreeably
+surprised by the announcement of an entire change of programme.
+
+
+  H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  THURSDAY POPS.
+
+  December 16th, 1875.
+
+  Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!!
+  The Wizard of the North!!! [finger symbol] For one night only!!!!
+
+  PROGRAMME:
+
+  The entertainment will commence with
+  A FEW WORDS ON STEAM . . Mr. Wootton.
+  After which the only and veritable
+
+  WIZARD OF THE NORTH,
+
+  _en route_ to his hyperborean domicile,
+
+  will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions
+  and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful
+  and startling tricks:--
+
+  The vanishing egg.
+  The magic die.
+  The mysterious sixpence.
+  The magic shawl.
+  A startling surgical operation.
+  The marvellous watch trick.
+  Tricks with cards.
+  The magic bag trick.
+  The wonderful generating hat.
+  The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed with
+  an egg and silk handkerchief.
+  The inexhaustible bottle.
+  Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual,
+  preside at the orchestra.
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+  THURSDAY POPS.
+
+  H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  January 20th, 1876.
+
+  GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITION
+    and
+  MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT.
+
+  To commence with
+  A FEW WORDS ON ASTRONOMY, by Com. Markham,
+  Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern.
+  To be followed by a series of
+
+  DISSOLVING VIEWS,
+
+  Consisting of coloured representations of
+  Remarkable places in England,
+  Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc.
+  After which, the wonderful and startling adventures of
+
+  SINDBAD THE SAILOR
+
+  Will be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+  In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like and
+  entertaining display of various specimens in
+
+  NATURAL HISTORY;
+    and
+  Lieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touching
+  TALE OF A TUB.
+
+  To conclude with some highly amusing
+
+  COMIC SCENES.
+
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+These amusements may be considered light and frivolous, for men engaged
+in such a serious undertaking as that upon which we were embarked; still
+they all tended to one point--namely, the successful issue of the
+enterprise. For they kept the minds of the men employed with pleasant
+and agreeable thoughts, drove away all feelings of tedium and dulness,
+and thus assisted largely in promoting the general well-being and
+satisfactory sanitary condition of the expedition during the long night
+of nearly one hundred and fifty days. They effectually banished
+despondency, and assisted in making all hands cheerful, happy, and
+contented.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B.
+
+  [2] Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship's cook Dominick a
+    native of Gibraltar.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.
+
+
+  "Darkness, Light's eldest brother, his birthright
+   Claimed o'er this world, and to heaven chased light."
+
+    DONNE.
+
+         "Behold the wandering moon
+  Riding near her highest noon,
+  Like one that hath been led astray
+  Through the heavens' wide pathless way;
+  And oft as if her head she bowed,
+  Stooping through a fleecy cloud."
+
+    MILTON.
+
+The sun, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter, took its final
+departure on the 11th of October. From this date darkness gradually
+settled upon us, reaching its greatest intensity on the 21st of
+December. The type of a leading article in the _Times_ newspaper was
+taken by us as a test of the darkness. This was last read in the open
+air at midday on the 6th of November, and then only by a few with a
+great deal of difficulty. Many unsuccessful attempts were made on
+subsequent days. For a fortnight on either side of the 21st of December,
+the difference in the light between noon and midnight, on a clear day,
+was almost imperceptible, on a dull day it was quite inappreciable.
+Occasionally, at other times, at midday a faint luminous band might be
+observed along the southern horizon, but this was all the indication we
+had of the difference between day and night.
+
+We did not forget to celebrate on the 21st of October the Battle of
+Trafalgar, remembering that our great naval hero, Nelson,[1] was himself
+an old Arctic navigator. Our caterers provided us with a good dinner,
+and we were regaled, as a great indulgence on such an auspicious
+occasion, with an extra glass of wine! Two elaborate bills of fare were
+placed on the table, on one of which was very creditably sketched the
+"Alert" in winter quarters, and on the other was depicted the Battle of
+Trafalgar, with the motto on each, "England expects every man _this_ day
+to do his duty!" As there was a good dinner on the table, and the cold
+weather had made us wondrous hungry, we all responded nobly to the call!
+
+The 5th of November was another anniversary that could not pass
+unnoticed. On that evening the effigy of Guy Fawkes, ingeniously stuffed
+with squibs and seated on a cask well smeared with tar, was duly paraded
+round the upper deck, accompanied by the drums and fifes playing the
+"Rogue's March." It was then dragged, on a sledge, to the summit of a
+neighbouring hummock, and there solemnly burnt in presence of the whole
+ship's company. The band continued to play until the lips and fingers of
+the fifers became so frost-bitten that they were compelled to desist. It
+was a novel sight to see the dusky forms of the men, clad in seal-skins,
+dancing round a blazing fire on the top of an enormous mass of ice,
+whilst in the background was the ship with her masts and yards thickly
+coated with snow, and all her ropes clearly defined in the bright
+"bonfire light." A beautiful balloon, manufactured by Moss out of
+various coloured tissue-papers, also formed a prominent feature in the
+evening's display. Unfortunately, shortly after it was released, and
+before it had ascended to any very great height, it caught fire and was
+quickly consumed.
+
+It must not be supposed, because I enumerate all the little incidents
+connected with the amusements of the men, that other and more important
+work was neglected. On the contrary, the officers were unceasingly
+engaged during the winter in taking scientific observations in their
+respective departments; each officer being awarded some special subject.
+These included observations in astronomy, magnetism, electricity,
+meteorology, tides, spectrum analysis, observations for the detection of
+the polarization of light, chlorine, and specific gravity estimations.
+The pursuit of these investigations was at times a matter of great
+difficulty and extreme personal discomfort. It necessitated attendance
+in, and consequent exposure to, a temperature many degrees below zero,
+for several hours at a time. Under these circumstances it is no easy
+matter to handle delicate instruments, the manipulation of which, even
+in a temperate climate, requires the utmost care and caution. Made
+extremely brittle by the intense cold, a fall to any of the small metal
+movable parts of an instrument, such as the needles, would be fatal, yet
+it is almost impossible to touch them with the uncovered hand. The
+breath freezing on the arcs and verniers of the instruments during the
+time of observation, and on the glasses of the telescopes and mirrors,
+adds seriously to the difficulty; whilst the unequal contraction of
+different metals during intensely cold weather renders some of the
+instruments totally useless.
+
+Paraselenæ, or mock moons, and auroras were of frequent occurrence, but
+none of the latter were sufficiently bright to call for special mention.
+These phenomena were always carefully examined, and the results
+recorded. As a rule the auroras consisted of faint coruscations darting
+across the heavens through the zenith, frequently in the form of an
+irregular arch terminating at each end on the horizon, and generally
+accompanied by various small luminous patches.
+
+The lunations of the moon were periods that were always looked forward
+to, and gladly welcomed, affording as they did, on clear bright days, a
+marked contrast to the gruesome darkness that generally prevailed. These
+clear days were not inappropriately termed "moony" ones, and were taken
+advantage of to perform all work that was considered necessary outside
+the ship.
+
+  "Rising in clouded majesty, at length
+   The moon unveiled her peerless light
+   And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw."
+
+Even on these bright silvery "moony" days it was unsafe to venture to
+any distance from the ship, as the sudden "veiling of her peerless
+light" by fog or clouds would produce total darkness, and so prevent the
+unfortunate wanderer from finding his way back.
+
+Great attention was paid to the important duty of seeing that a proper
+amount of exercise was taken by every soul on board. Open-air exercise
+was the more essential to health, because the air we breathed on board
+was not as pure as might be desired. This was inevitable, and the evil
+could only be partially counteracted by strict attention to the
+enforcing of outdoor exercise. A walk was constructed along the floe
+near the ship, for a distance of half a mile, marked at every two or
+three yards by small heaps of empty preserved meat tins, placed there by
+our industrious doctor. We were thus able to take our exercise along
+this promenade even on the darkest day, and the number of times that
+each individual walked up and down during the day was proudly recounted
+at the dinner-table. The darkness prevented walks to any greater
+distance for a considerable time. This then was our fashionable lounge,
+and was called the "Ladies' Mile" after the drive of the same name in
+Hyde Park.
+
+Our greatest annoyance was undoubtedly caused by the incessant drip in
+our cabins and elsewhere on board. So bad was it that all books had to
+be removed from the shelves, or from any position where they were in
+contact with the ship's side or the beams overhead. Especially over our
+beds did we suffer, and could only make certain of a dry night's rest by
+taking the precaution of nailing a blanket over the bed, or sloping one
+as an awning! No means that we could devise, although many experiments
+were tried on the living deck of the men as well as by the officers in
+their cabins, lessened the condensation from which we suffered, and
+which increased with any rise of temperature. One officer went so far as
+to light, and keep burning for a whole day, no less than fifty-two
+candles and one lamp in his cabin, hoping by these means to dry it
+thoroughly; but although it answered the purpose for a day or two, at an
+enormous cost, it was soon as bad as ever. During the time of his
+_illumination_ he succeeded in raising the temperature of his cabin
+from 40° to 75°! It is decidedly unpleasant, whilst writing, to have a
+continual stream of water pouring down upon your head and upon your
+paper; yet it is impossible to prevent this disagreeable drip.
+
+One of my messmates, more fortunate than his brother officers, had
+brought an umbrella with him, and this being spread over his chair
+protected him from the wet, and thus enabled him to read or write in
+comparative comfort, and, what was perhaps of greater consequence, with
+the perfect preservation of his temper.
+
+It may appear like affectation on my part when I say that any rise of
+temperature, during the winter, was viewed by us with dissatisfaction.
+Clad as we were to resist a cold of many degrees below zero, we were
+made absolutely uncomfortable by the _heat_ when the thermometer
+indicated any degree with a + sign. The only real good that we derived
+from such a rise of temperature was that we were able more freely to
+throw open the doors leading down to the lower deck, and thus admit a
+thorough circulation of fresh air; on one occasion during the month of
+November the temperature rose as high as 23°, and in December it reached
+the unprecedented height (for that season of the year) of 35°! These, of
+course, were only occasional jumps, never of long duration, and were
+apparently produced by gales of wind from the S.W. Our experience at the
+"Alert's" winter quarters was that a breeze of wind raised the
+temperature, and that our coldest weather was always registered on
+perfectly still and clear days! During boisterous tempestuous weather
+the pack, although stationary, moaned and groaned weirdly, as if unhappy
+gnomes, imprisoned in the cold grasp of the frozen sea, were bewailing
+their hard fate, and pleading for release from their icy fetters. The
+young ice, too, in the vicinity of the ship cracked in a most alarming
+manner, each crack being accompanied by a sharp and loud report, and
+formed great fissures, leaving the surface, which had hitherto been
+smooth and level, rugged and uneven. Well might the "Ancient Mariner,"
+describing such a scene, say--
+
+  "It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
+  Like noises in a swound."
+
+This movement of the ice, slight as it was, exposed the "Alert" to great
+pressure, and although it did not amount to an actual "nip," nor did it
+in any way cause injury to the ship, it made her list over several
+degrees. Now, as we in the ward-room were on a limited allowance of
+wine, namely two glasses a day, this heeling over of the vessel caused
+us great annoyance, as it prevented our glasses from being filled to the
+brim, a custom that had been rigidly followed out since leaving England.
+This curtailment of our "rights," as we were pleased to call them, was
+very naturally regarded with a certain amount of disfavour. In order to
+lessen, if we could not entirely rectify this evil, we supplied
+ourselves with ingeniously made little wedges, which, being placed under
+the _lee_ side of the wine-glass, brought it so nearly upright that we
+succeeded in very nearly getting our full allowance.
+
+The birthdays of the officers were invariably celebrated by the best
+dinners that our indefatigable and energetic caterers could provide,
+always having in view the chance of the ship spending three winters in
+the Arctic Regions. As a special indulgence we were also allowed on
+these occasions a glass of port wine after dinner, a treat that we
+ordinarily had only twice a week. The composition of the _menus_ for
+these sumptuous feasts was always a subject of anxious care and
+forethought on the part of those who were entrusted with this important
+duty. Long and earnest were the consultations that were held, before one
+of them was satisfactorily composed and placed in the printer's hands.
+
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+  MENU.
+
+  POTAGES.
+  Mulligatawny.
+
+  POISSONS.
+  Pégouse à la Couverture de Laine.[2]
+
+  ENTRÉES.
+  Petits Pâtés d'Homard à la Chasse.[3]
+  Rognons à la Pain rôti.
+
+  RELEVÉS.
+  Mouton rôti à l'Anglais. Tongues on Gimbals.
+
+  ENTREMETS.
+  Poudin aux Raisins.
+  Blanc-manger à la Hummock.
+  Petits Pâtés d'Hahis à la place d'Eccleston.
+
+  DESSERT.
+  Poudin glacé à la Hyperborean.
+  Figues. Noce.
+  Gâteau à l'lrlandais.
+  Café et Liqueur á la Jesson.
+
+    _November 11th_, 1875.
+
+
+As we were living in a land in which little could be obtained in the way
+of change, the object was to diversify as much as possible the names of
+the same viands, so as to make the guests believe that the dinners were
+entirely different. The names given to some of the dishes were decidedly
+original. On the previous page is the first _printed_ bill of fare that
+was placed on the table.
+
+Shortly after the ship had been established in winter quarters, a
+careful calculation was made of the amount of fresh meat we possessed.
+
+By fresh meat, I mean meat of the musk-oxen and sheep that we had
+killed, and not the fresh _preserved_ meat, of which we had an ample
+supply. It was found we had sufficient to yield fourteen meals, at the
+rate of one pound per man per meal. It was, therefore, determined to
+issue a fresh meat meal twice every three weeks, and, at the doctor's
+recommendation, this was done on two consecutive days. In his opinion
+this method of apportioning it was the most conducive to health.
+
+Beer, of which we had been provided with ten hogsheads specially brewed
+for us by Allsopp, was issued, so long as a cask was "on tap," twice a
+week. On these days half the allowance of spirits only was served out.
+
+On Sundays Divine service was regularly performed between decks; the
+morning and evening services being read on alternate Sundays.
+
+Prayers were read daily on the upper deck. The Holy Communion was
+celebrated on the first Sunday in every month. Considering the small
+number of men from among whom the choir was selected, and the
+necessarily slight amount of practice they could have, the singing at
+church was very creditable. Aldrich played the accompaniment on a
+harmonium that we had obtained from the ward-room officers of the
+"Valorous," before parting company with that ship at Disco. The credit
+of originating and instructing the choir was, of course, due to Pullen
+and Aldrich.
+
+Medical inspections were held regularly on the first day of each month,
+when every officer and man was minutely questioned and examined. Nothing
+could be more satisfactory than the medical report of the sanitary
+condition of the men at the conclusion of these examinations.
+
+The amount of compulsory open-air exercise that had to be taken by each
+man was two hours a day; but most of the men, that is to say all the
+working hands exclusive of cooks, stewards, and servants, were
+invariably at work, _outside_ the ship, for at least five hours a day. A
+very favourite and at the same time healthy pastime of the men in their
+leisure hours, when the moon was up, was that of "tabogganing." This
+consisted in dragging one of our small satellites or dog-sledges to the
+summit of a neighbouring hill, and then coming down, two or three on the
+sledge, at the rate of about sixty or seventy miles an hour! The men
+enjoyed this amazingly, and used to race one sledge against another. As
+they were not very expert in the management of these "taboggans," and
+had little confidence in their own steering, they would, when they saw
+there was a chance of their sledge coming to grief, tumble out and roll
+for some distance after it. Fortunately the snow was soft and they never
+came to harm.
+
+Rawson, who had acquired a knowledge of this sport in Canada, was the
+first to introduce it in the far north. The dexterity with which he
+managed his "taboggan" was marvellous, and he would frequently,
+accompanied by one of his messmates, come down the steep side of one of
+the highest floe-bergs in the vicinity of the ship. Poor "Nellie" could
+never understand whence the motive power of these machines was derived,
+and used to rush round barking at us in a frantic manner when we first
+started, until left far behind plunging in the soft snow and struggling
+to keep pace with us.
+
+It was wonderful how this dog withstood the cold. The colder the day the
+more she appeared to enjoy it, dashing about in the soft fine snow and
+picking up pieces of ice in her mouth for the purpose of having them
+thrown for her. It must be remembered that for any one of us to touch a
+piece of ice with the uncovered hand in a temperature 50° below zero
+would have been a very serious matter; yet Nellie was able, in the same
+temperature, to carry pieces of ice, or bits of metal or stone, in her
+mouth for hours together. The only cause of annoyance to the poor old
+doggie was the caking or balling of the snow between her toes, which
+used to trouble her a good deal. To obviate this, four little flannel
+moccasins were made for her feet; but, although she enjoyed wearing them
+and seemed to be proud of her appearance in them, they had to be
+discontinued, as we were afraid that the tying them on sufficiently
+tight to prevent their coming off might stop the circulation of the
+blood and thus produce frost-bite. On the whole, however, Nellie throve
+wonderfully well, and until the following summer enjoyed perfect health.
+She was my constant companion wherever I went, attending me during my
+walks, and lying curled up at my feet in the observatory during the long
+hours that I was employed taking magnetic observations. She always slept
+in an arm-chair in my cabin, being provided with her own little blanket,
+on which her name was embroidered.
+
+[Illustration: NELLIE.]
+
+Before concluding this chapter it will be as well to relate an
+interesting and rather curious incident connected with one of our Eskimo
+dogs.
+
+In Aldrich's sledge journey to Cape Joseph Henry, one of his dogs
+(Sallie), being attacked with a fit, had to be cast off from the team
+and was no more seen by him during that journey.
+
+On crossing the floe with my sledge party about a week after, we were
+suddenly joined, to our great surprise, by an Eskimo dog which the men
+readily recognized as Sallie; all our attempts to make her approach were
+unsuccessful, although she followed us at a distance during the day and
+hovered round our camp, picking up scraps of pemmican that had been
+purposely left out for her during the night. She eluded all attempts at
+being caught, running away on the ice and disappearing amongst the
+hummocks. She followed us faithfully, at a distance, until the day we
+returned to the ship, when she vanished altogether. She was last seen on
+the floe about four miles from the "Alert."
+
+Amid the many preparations for the winter, poor Sallie was forgotten and
+had almost passed out of recollection altogether, when one day in
+December, more than _two_ months after she had been last seen, a strange
+dog was observed hovering round the ship. This strange dog proved to be
+the long-lost Sallie!
+
+No amount of coaxing would persuade her to come near us, and she was
+eventually driven off by the other Eskimo dogs, and took refuge on the
+pack. On the following day she again made her appearance, and this time
+we succeeded in getting her on board and into a place of safety. She was
+terribly thin and emaciated; but being well cared for and attended to,
+she rapidly picked up, and was eventually the strongest and best dog in
+our whole team.
+
+The question as to how she had existed during her long absence from the
+ship was a difficult one to solve. At first it was surmised that she had
+attached herself to a pack of wolves; but this idea was scouted, as no
+tracks had been seen to lead us to believe that these animals existed in
+our neighbourhood. It is not probable that she obtained anything from
+the ship during the time she was missing, or that she picked up scraps
+from the other dogs, for on her appearance she was at once driven away
+by her old companions. The only probable conclusion that we could arrive
+at was that she had supported life by hunting and feasting on lemmings,
+for the traces of these little animals were the only indications that we
+had of the existence, outside our own circle, of animal life.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Nelson served as a midshipman on board the "Carcass," in Captain
+    Phipps' North Polar Expedition in 1773.
+
+  [2] Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel.
+
+  [3] The name of the cook was Hunt.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.
+
+
+  "So now is come our joyful'st feast,
+     Let every man be jolly,
+   Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest,
+     And every post with holly;
+   Now all our neighbours' chimneys smoke,
+     And Christmas blocks are burning;
+   Their ovens they with baked meats choke,
+     And all their spits are turning.
+   Without the door let sorrow lie,
+     And if, for cold, it hap to die,
+   We'll bury't in a Christmas pye,
+     And ever more be merry."
+
+     WITHER.
+
+On the 21st of December the sun reached its greatest southern
+declination. We felt on that day that we had cause for rejoicing. The
+sun had arrived at the limit of its southern journey, and now it would,
+every day, be travelling to the northward, and therefore in our
+direction. So rapidly had the time passed that Christmas stole upon us
+unawares, and we were only reminded of its approach by the strong odour
+of good things being cooked that pervaded the whole ship, bringing to
+our minds the fact that preparations for its celebration had actually
+commenced. Nothing was omitted that could possibly add to the comfort
+and enjoyment of the men on this day. The ship's stores were thrown
+open and they were allowed to provide themselves with an unlimited
+amount, so long as there was no waste, of flour, raisins, sugar, and
+preserved fruits, and in addition to the regular daily allowance of
+meat, a pound of musk-ox beef and a pound of mutton were issued to each
+man. For the two previous days, during which they had been disturbed as
+little as possible, the men were engaged in making the necessary
+preparations for spending their Christmas as happily and as socially as
+if they were in a more genial climate. It must be remembered that this
+was a day looked forward to by all, not only in the light of a festival,
+but because it was also regarded as the turning-point of the winter.
+After Christmas every day would bring us nearer to the sun, whose bright
+face we all so ardently wished to welcome once more. Moreover, Christmas
+day, to a community situated as we were, "away from the busy haunts of
+men," must always be regarded as an epoch, a day looked forward to, and
+when passed, a day from which many events are dated.
+
+In addition to the supplies afforded by the stores of the ship, we were
+largely indebted to kind, and in several instances unknown, friends and
+well-wishers to the expedition in England for many little articles that
+assisted to amuse our men during this festive season. Amongst these the
+kind and generous ladies of Queenstown must not be forgotten. These
+ladies had, previous to our departure from England, formed themselves
+into a Committee, and had sent to each ship a large Christmas-box
+containing many useful, and indeed valuable, articles. Each officer
+received some little package, personally directed to himself, and every
+man was presented with some pretty little Christmas-box. Nothing could
+have been more happily thought of, and it would have done the fair
+donors good could they but have witnessed the pleasure testified by the
+recipients at the distribution of the contents of their case.
+
+I must not omit to mention another Christmas-box, kindly sent by Mr.
+Mason, the inventor, I believe, of "Somebody's Luggage," and containing
+all sorts of amusing little articles suitable either for decorating a
+table or a Christmas-tree.
+
+Another act of kindness on the part of our friends in England was also
+much appreciated by both officers and men. A young lady, a relative of
+one of the officers, had taken the trouble to direct a letter to each
+individual on board, containing a beautiful Christmas card. To make it
+appear as if they had been actually delivered through the post, a
+second-hand postage-stamp had been affixed to each envelope. Her kind
+forethought afforded a great deal of pleasure to the recipients of those
+letters.
+
+Christmas eve was spent very merrily by all on board the "Alert." The
+piano was carried out from the ward-room to the main deck, where dancing
+was kept up with great animation until eleven o'clock! It is wonderful
+how fond the English man-of-war's man is of dancing. So long as he can
+obtain music and a partner to dance with, without regard to sex, he will
+continue to fling his legs about with great vigour until compelled by
+heat and exhaustion to desist! The men on board the "Alert" were no
+exception to this rule; one and all joined in the dance, and seemed
+thoroughly to enjoy it. Poor Aldrich did not get a moment's peace. As
+soon as one tune was finished, he was called upon for another. Polka,
+waltz, and galop followed each other in rapid succession, officers and
+men joining alike in the general hilarity of the evening.
+
+Christmas morning broke cold and clear; its stillness occasionally
+interrupted by light puffs of wind from the S.W. Divine service was
+performed in the forenoon, the pulpit being decorated with branches of
+artificial holly. When church was over, a little exercise was taken on
+the "ladies' mile." On my return I found my cabin brightened up by small
+twigs of variegated holly, a delicate and touching attention on the part
+of some of my messmates, who had provided themselves with artificial
+branches of this plant before leaving England. At one o'clock,
+everything being in readiness, the officers were invited to inspect the
+lower deck. Preceded by our drum and fife band playing the "Roast Beef
+of Old England," we paid a formal visit to the men's quarters. The lower
+deck was beautifully and tastefully decorated with flags, coloured
+tinsel paper, and artificial flowers, whilst the different mess tables
+were literally groaning under the weight of the good cheer that adorned
+them. Everything had a cheerful and comfortable appearance, and, above
+all, the radiant healthy-looking faces, beaming with pleasure, that so
+cordially and heartily greeted us with the compliments of the season. Of
+course, dancing was the prominent feature of the afternoon, Aldrich,
+with his usual good nature, being again victimized at the piano. At six
+o'clock, for on such an important occasion we departed from our usual
+dinner hour of half-past two, we all assembled in the ward-room for
+dinner, and great was our astonishment and delight at seeing in the
+centre of our table a magnificent bouquet of artificial flowers. This
+was, I believe, the happy thought of a lady who had recently been
+admitted into the circle of "Arctic relations." The bright-coloured
+flowers, reminding us of home associations, were more thoroughly
+appreciated than even the good dinner which was provided for us, for
+which reference must be made to the following _menu_, composed by
+Pullen:--
+
+H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  À la Juliènne soup is the _potage_ we favour,
+    And soles fried _au naturel_ serve us for fish;
+  We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour--
+    Beef garnished with mushrooms--a true English dish.
+
+  Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys,
+    Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by,
+  Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dallies
+    With a small slice of ham--then gives in with a sigh.
+
+  For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us,
+    And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow;
+  While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us:
+    Alas! are we equal to meeting them now?
+
+  So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden,
+    The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear;
+  And may we and our consort sail home richly laden
+    With the spoils of success, ere December next year!
+
+In addition to the bill of fare, the annexed poem by the same
+accomplished author was printed and placed in front of each member of
+the mess.
+
+  On this glad Christmas Day,
+    While happy bells are flinging
+  O'er bright lands far away
+    Their burst of joyous singing,
+  We love to think that each sweet lay,
+    That sets those echoes ringing,
+  Hushed music from our icy bay
+    To loving hearts is bringing.
+
+  Hushed music that shall tell
+    How He has left us never,
+  In whose dear sight we dwell,
+    Who aids our high endeavour;
+  Who, from the hearts that love us well,
+    Our short lives will not sever,
+  For whose good gifts our breasts shall swell
+    With grateful praise for ever!
+
+Our drum and fife band, of their own accord, played several airs very
+creditably during our dinner, which was brought to a conclusion by a few
+short speeches. In the evening dancing was again kept up with great
+animation; every one appeared cheerful and happy. In no region of the
+world could this Christmas-day have been spent with more mirth and more
+genuine fellowship than it was by the little band of explorers, so far
+removed from all home ties and associations, who were celebrating it
+that day, in a latitude farther north than man had ever before
+penetrated.
+
+On reviewing the events of the year we felt we had much to be thankful
+for. We had succeeded, in spite of many dangers and difficulties, in
+establishing our ship in winter quarters in a position farther north
+than even some of the most sanguine had, at one time, dared to hope. The
+English flag had been displayed, both by sea and by land, in a higher
+northern latitude than any flag had ever before been seen, and although
+our prospects of further exploration in a northerly direction were
+somewhat damped, owing to the land trending west, we knew that there was
+much to be done during the ensuing year in defining and exploring the
+coasts to the east and to the west. A wide field of exploration was
+still before us, and there was much useful work to be done during the
+ensuing spring in a hitherto unknown region.
+
+Half our winter had passed, and although the long dark night of one
+hundred and fifty days might, by some unacquainted with the many
+resources we possessed to while away the time, be considered dull and
+monotonous, monotony and despondency were unknown on board the good ship
+"Alert." We all looked forward with eager hope to the return of the sun,
+strong in our determination to do our best, and with our appetites for
+sledging considerably whetted by the initiation we had received during
+the autumn.
+
+Hitherto we had, with one exception, enjoyed perfect immunity from
+sickness, and we all thought that if there was no cold weather in the
+Arctic Regions to produce frost-bites, the appointments of medical
+officers to the expedition, so far as their professional qualifications
+were concerned, were undoubted sinecures. The frost-bites had, however,
+been very severe, and at the end of the year there still remained on the
+sick list four of the poor fellows who had been attacked during the
+autumn sledging, three of whom had suffered amputation of the big toe.
+
+Compelled to keep to their beds, the winter to them must have, indeed,
+been wearisome; but no word of complaint was ever uttered by them, and
+they appeared as cheerful and in as good spirits as the best of us.
+Their only distress was the idea of not being allowed, in consequence of
+their misfortune, to participate in the spring campaign. The sequel,
+however, proved, although they took no part in the _extended_ sledging
+operations, how well and how nobly they worked in their brave endeavours
+to assist and succour their poor, weak, and stricken comrades; but we
+must not anticipate.
+
+We had hitherto experienced, in comparison with what we had been led to
+expect, tolerably mild weather, as Arctic winter weather goes; and the
+cold had not been so severe as we anticipated; -46.5° or 78½° below
+freezing-point being, up to the end of the year, the minimum temperature
+registered. This was by no means an uncomfortable temperature, although
+superficial frost-bites, especially on the noses and cheekbones, were of
+constant occurrence. Solitary walks were, of course, prohibited; and it
+was particularly impressed upon every one that, when they were absent
+from the ship, they were carefully to watch their companions' faces in
+order to detect a frost-bite at once, and so be able to restore
+circulation before permanent injury could be sustained. Face-covers were
+occasionally worn, but were not in very great favour. They have the
+disadvantage of freezing to the face, which they also conceal, and so
+prevent a comrade from seeing and reporting a frost-bite.
+
+In the neighbourhood of our winter quarters there had, up to this time,
+been a remarkable absence of all animal life. Occasionally the
+quarter-masters would report that during the night they heard the
+howling of wolves in the distance, and one night the Eskimo dogs, who
+were lying curled up in the snow outside the ship, made a sudden rush
+for the gangway, and evinced great eagerness to get on board. This
+stampede was attributed to the presence of wolves, but no tracks of
+these animals had been seen to justify our arriving at such a
+conclusion. With the exception sometimes of a peculiar, whistling,
+moaning sound, caused by the rise and fall of the ice with the tide, the
+stillness of the nights was undisturbed.
+
+We had long been aware that the ice of which this part of the polar sea
+was composed consisted of huge massive floes, not of a few seasons'
+formation, but the creation of ages, real thick-ribbed ice. Except along
+the west coasts of Banks and Prince Patrick Islands, no such ice had
+ever before been met with in the Arctic Regions. It therefore became
+desirable to apply to it a special name by which it might be
+provisionally known. After some discussion, Captain Nares decided upon
+calling the frozen sea, on the southern border of which we were
+wintering, the "Palæocrystic Sea," the name being derived from the two
+Greek words [Greek: palaios] ancient, and [Greek: krystallos] ice. This
+term was used for the great frozen polar sea during the remaining period
+of our detention on its borders.[1]
+
+Atmospheric phenomena, such as halos and paraselenæ, were by no means
+uncommon, and occasionally we were astonished by the heavenly bodies
+behaving, as it appeared to us, in a very eccentric manner. On one
+occasion the star Aldebaran was reported to be jumping about in a
+strange way. Such unusual behaviour on the part of a star brought us all
+up in the cold, and there, sure enough, was Aldebaran doing exactly what
+was reported, and altogether conducting itself in a very erratic and
+unstarlike manner. The illusion was caused by the fall of minute, and
+imperceptible, frozen particles; but it was some time before we could
+satisfy ourselves that the star was not actually in motion, many of the
+men remaining to this day unconvinced. One of our Scotch quarter-masters
+informed me, some time afterwards, that it was a "vara curious star;"
+and although the laws of refraction were explained to him, he still
+persisted in his belief that the movement of the star was due to itself,
+and would not believe in any other explanation.
+
+At the beginning of the winter, shortly after the return of the sledge
+parties, the doctor and myself being busily engaged in the construction
+of a snow house on shore, observed a most brilliant meteor fall,
+apparently about a quarter of a mile from us, its course being from S.E.
+to N.W. It was of a bright emerald-green colour, and was falling so
+quietly and slowly that we at first thought it was a rocket, or Roman
+candle, let off by some one astern of the ship, it being distinctly
+visible for many seconds. When it arrived, in our estimation, at about
+forty feet from the ground, it suddenly burst, displaying bright red and
+green colours. It was seen by others, from different points of
+observation; all being unanimous in their opinion that it was one of the
+most beautiful sights, of the kind, they had ever witnessed.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] The word may not be formed on strictly accurate principles, but
+    it is sufficiently expressive of the fact it is intended to
+    represent, and it is now endeared to us by association and by common
+    usage while serving in the far north.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+A HAPPY NEW YEAR.
+
+
+  The old year dies on southern skies,
+    And leafless woods that moan and quiver;
+  The shadows creep o'er ocean deep,
+    And silent lake and rustling river;
+  And all is gloom around the tomb
+    Of wasted moments, lost for ever.
+
+  The new year gleams on silver streams,
+    Where meadows smile in sunlit glances;
+  The dark shades flee across the sea,
+    And the wild wavelet laughs and dances;
+  And all is bright where new-born light
+    Brings hope to man and golden chances.
+
+  O happy year! that tells us here
+    The same sweet, ever-welcome story,
+  That soon, so soon! one radiant noon
+    Shall plunge in light yon summits hoary,
+  That point our way through endless day
+    To joyous triumphs, home, and glory.
+
+    H. W. PULLEN,
+
+    H.M.S. "Alert,"
+
+      _January 1st_, 1876.
+
+The above lines, composed by the poet laureate of the expedition,
+greeted us at the breakfast table on the morning of the 1st of January,
+1876.
+
+The New Year was ushered in with every demonstration of joy, gratitude,
+and hope by our little party assembled together, so far removed from the
+civilized world. We were joyful because a new year had dawned upon us
+in undiminished numbers; grateful for the many mercies that had been
+vouchsafed to us, and hopeful concerning our future prospects. We could
+not look back with regret upon the past year, for to us it had indeed
+been eventful; but officers and men looked forward to the coming year
+with feelings of confidence, resolutely determined faithfully to perform
+their duties, placing their trust in Him who had hitherto so well
+watched over and protected them, and firm in their reliance on His
+continued aid and support.
+
+It is generally the custom in the navy to strike the bell sixteen times
+at midnight on New Year's eve--eight bells for the old year and eight
+bells for the new! Of course with us this custom was rigidly adhered to;
+but not only did we strike sixteen bells at _our_ midnight, but we also
+struck the same number at six minutes to eight, which, allowing for the
+exact difference in time, would be midnight in England, so that we had
+at least the satisfaction of knowing that our bell was being employed in
+the same way as many others in the navy at the same time.
+
+Perhaps it may be interesting to my readers to know exactly how we
+received the New Year! I will, therefore, quote my remarks as they
+appear, word for word, in my journal.
+
+"At five minutes to twelve, we all congregated round the ward-room
+table, on which was spread a sumptuous cold collation, consisting of a
+_real_ English ham, Bologna sausages, brawn, and sardines. Strong
+whiskey punch, in the brewing of which all had a share, was ladled out
+to each, and from the encomiums which were passed on its flavour and
+strength, the old proverb that 'too many cooks spoil the broth' was
+completely upset. As the bell struck, a neat little speech was made by
+our orator the doctor, the compliments of the season were wished to all,
+nor were those at home forgotten, our glasses were emptied, and then in
+true Highland fashion, with one foot on the table, the other on our
+chair, and with hands joined, we all sang 'Auld lang syne,' the drum and
+fife band accompanying us outside, the song being taken up by the men on
+the lower deck, who, true to their tastes, had been '_dancing_ out the
+old year.' Such was the manner in which the year 1876 was inaugurated in
+latitude 82° 27´ N., where no human being had ever welcomed a new year
+before."
+
+A more cheerful, happy, and contented party it would be difficult to
+imagine anywhere; utterly oblivious of the solemn darkness and desolate
+sterility that prevailed without, they thought only of the "joyous
+triumph" that they hoped to achieve, and then of their return to old
+England. Everything wore a cheerful aspect. No leader could have more
+reason to be satisfied with the health and spirits of those under his
+command, than Captain Nares on the 1st of January, 1876.
+
+On that morning, at the usual monthly medical inspection, he had the
+satisfaction of receiving the report that the men were in a better state
+of health than they were at the last examination. Appetites, which
+during mid-winter had been waning, had gradually returned. So contented
+were we, that many were actually pitying our friends in England, because
+they were unable to enjoy such delicious musk-ox beef as was put on our
+table for dinner on New Year's day!
+
+Our first crop of mustard and cress was gathered on the 2nd of January.
+It was not an abundant one, but there was sufficient to give a mouthful
+to each person, and what little we had was certainly very refreshing. It
+had grown up devoid of all colour, and had a very _washed-out_
+appearance. The garden was a small shallow box kept close to the
+ward-room stove. In consequence of the success attending this--our
+first--attempt at agriculture, several gardens were started, and we were
+enabled to issue, at different times, small quantities of this excellent
+antiscorbutic; though how far the loss of colour detracts from its
+medicinal qualities is a difficult problem to solve. Although the colour
+was absent, the fresh _taste_ appeared to remain, there being no
+perceptible difference between that grown on board the "Alert," and the
+same reared in the heat of the sun in more favoured climes. As a rule,
+the best crops were those grown on a blanket.
+
+On the 8th and 9th of January we experienced a heavy gale of wind from
+the southward. It was impossible, whilst it lasted, to venture outside
+the ship, even to take the thermometric observations, although they
+could be registered only a few yards from the gangway: they had
+therefore to be discontinued during the time the gale lasted. It blew
+for forty-eight hours with relentless fury, when it exhausted itself in
+fitful gusts, more or less strong, until it abated altogether. The
+housing over the ship suffered sadly from this storm, several tons
+weight of snow having collected on it from the tremendous drift, in some
+places breaking it through, and in others "bagging" it down so as to
+render walking underneath an impossibility.
+
+All our outdoor establishments were completely buried with snow, and we
+were compelled to send parties of men to excavate them, in order to
+effect an entrance at all. In fact, our men were for some time engaged
+in repairing the ravages of the storm. The accumulation of drift on the
+weather side of the ship was enormous, and took the form of a perfectly
+solid snow-wreath. This was caused by the eddying wind driving the snow
+from the side of the vessel to a distance of about four or five feet,
+where it settled, resembling a great frozen wave, whose curling crest
+was fully seven feet in height.
+
+On the opposite, or lee, side of the ship the ice had cracked, leaving
+several large fissures, through which the water oozed and flowed over.
+The spring tides had also caused the ship to rise in her icy cradle, the
+greater part of the banking having, in consequence, slipped through
+between the edge of our dock and the ship's side and disappeared. This
+also had to be rectified. Our gale of wind had undoubtedly been
+productive of much extra work, irrespective of the anxiety and the by no
+means pleasant time spent, during its duration: for as yet our
+protecting bergs had not inspired us with absolute confidence regarding
+the shelter they might afford in such tempestuous weather as we had
+recently experienced. So well, however, did they answer our purpose
+during this gale, that all cause for anxiety was from that time removed,
+and for the future we felt as safe and as secure as if we had been
+frozen up in a well-sheltered and land-locked harbour.
+
+When the wind was at its height, a piece of musk-ox meat, suspended in
+the mizzen-rigging, was blown down, and was, of course, at once assailed
+by the Eskimo dogs who had been admitted into the ship during the gale.
+Fortunately it was frozen so hard that they were unable to get their
+teeth through it, and although it had been some time in their clutches
+before it was rescued, little loss was sustained.
+
+At noon on the 17th of January, a faint tinge of crimson, blended with a
+slight silvery streak of twilight, could be observed in the southern
+horizon, and although it was only of short duration, it became more
+decided and lasted for a longer time on each successive day. These
+bright harbingers of returning light were anxiously watched, and gladly
+were they welcomed as they assumed a more decided appearance.
+
+Although there was no despondency or depression of spirits on board the
+"Alert," the monotony of the long dark nights could not but be felt, and
+we all eagerly looked forward to the time when the glorious rays from
+our bright, though long-absent, sun should again crown the summits of
+the distant hills with their sparkling and joyous light. All on board
+were interested for different reasons in the return of the sun: the
+sledge travellers, because it would bring light and heat to cheer and
+sustain them on their lonesome and arduous journeys, which they knew
+would be commenced as soon after its return as possible: the sportsmen
+regarded it as the precursor of game; and all hailed with delight the
+symbol of returning day and the assurance of the approaching termination
+of their long dark night. By the 1st of February, those gifted with
+sharp eyesight were just able to decipher a leading article in the
+_Times_ on the floe at noon. It was remarked that one of our officers
+afflicted with short-sightedness was able, by the dim twilight, to read
+not only with greater ease and accuracy than others, but also some days
+before them, and therefore by a dimmer light.
+
+We had hitherto had no exceptionally severe weather; but during the
+latter part of January we experienced a foretaste of the intense cold
+that we were a month later destined to endure. With a temperature 50°
+below zero, it is necessary, when exposed to it, to keep the body in
+constant motion, otherwise a frost-bite will imperceptibly seize hold of
+one. On first emerging into this temperature a slight difficulty of
+breathing would be experienced, and tears would be involuntarily brought
+to the eyes, which immediately became small nodules of ice, and as such
+had to be extracted. This is hardly to be wondered at when it is
+remembered that we had to undergo a transition of temperature from our
+living-deck to the open air of over 100°! In spite of this cold,
+however, we were not much troubled with frost-bites, except on the face.
+Our dearly bought experience, during the autumn sledging, will account
+for our comparative immunity from these very troublesome and painful
+attacks.
+
+Apropos of frost-bites it is related, that one of the members of the
+expedition, on getting up in the morning, during the cold weather,
+found, to his horror, that one of his toes and a part of his foot were
+quite black. Thinking he was severely frost-bitten, and wishing at once
+to assure himself of the fact by the only practical method that
+suggested itself at the time, he seized a pin, and made a furious dig at
+the supposed injured part. He very quickly found that, although
+discoloured, it was not totally devoid of all sensation, nor was the
+circulation of blood in any way impeded. The fact was, that his servant,
+on the previous day, had patched up his sock with a piece of fearnought,
+and, in order to assimilate the colour, had inked it over--which fully
+accounted for his terrible frost-bite!
+
+It was our invariable custom to keep the hair, especially that growing
+on the face, as close as possible. In spite, however, of this
+precaution, it was impossible to prevent the breath from freezing on the
+short stubbly beard and moustache, which would soon be converted into a
+perfect mass of ice--a decidedly uncomfortable appendage. On returning
+from our short walks, we frequently found our cap, comforter, and collar
+of the coat frozen into one solid and compact mass.
+
+Occasionally an amusing incident occurred to vary the sameness of our
+daily life, as the following story will show. During the darkest part of
+the winter one of the magnetic observers had occasion to visit the
+observatory. Taking his lantern, and accompanied by Nellie, he reached
+the door, which to his surprise was open. Supposing it to have been
+blown open by the wind, for it had been blowing very hard the previous
+night, he entered the long tunnel leading up to the Unifilar House.
+Before he had gone far a strong animal smell assailed his olfactory
+organs; this, with the fact of Nellie exhibiting great restlessness,
+induced him to examine the ground, when he clearly detected the traces
+of some animal, but of what description he was unable to decide.
+
+He was now placed in rather an unpleasant position, for to advance
+head-foremost through a narrow passage into a small house in which a
+great Polar bear might have established himself, was to say the least a
+rash act; yet he was unwilling to return on board, and probably be for
+ever after chaffed by his messmates for being frightened at nothing.
+Putting on a bold front, he determined at all hazards to push on, and
+ascertain what the animal was that had dared to violate the sacred
+precincts of the observatory. As he advanced the peculiar odour became
+stronger, and he was sorely tempted to retreat, thinking discretion was
+the better part of valour. Arriving at the entrance to the house,
+however, he plucked up courage, and with the lantern well in front of
+him, and Nellie close at his heels, he dashed in, and there, lying down
+and looking almost as frightened as himself, was, not the great white
+bear that he expected to meet, but "Bruin," the largest of our Eskimo
+dogs, who, during the boisterous weather of the preceding night, had
+sought shelter in our observatory, and had no doubt found it a very snug
+and comfortable place, infinitely preferable to the bleak and exposed
+floe. It was a long time before the place was rid of the unpleasant
+smell peculiar to Eskimo dogs.
+
+As the light increased day by day, the men were employed in re-embarking
+the stores and provisions landed, and in demolishing "Markham Hall." It
+was necessary to accomplish as much as possible, as Captain Nares well
+knew, before the departure of the sledging parties, for so few men would
+be left on board that little could be done during their absence, and
+there was no saying how soon after their return the ship would be able
+to break out of winter quarters. The Eskimo dogs were also now regularly
+fed and attended to. Hitherto they had been left to do pretty much as
+they liked, and their regular meals during the winter had been few, and
+served at uncertain times. Notwithstanding the small amount of food that
+was issued to them, they were all in capital condition, in fact a little
+too "fleshy" for dragging purposes, as they always received the scraps
+and surplus food from the allowance of the ship's company, and this was
+more than enough to keep a much larger pack of dogs than we possessed.
+They were also regularly exercised in dragging a light sledge, their
+day's work increasing as the days lengthened.
+
+We could not but notice the sallowness of complexion which the returning
+light revealed, only too palpably, in the faces of our companions,
+caused by the long absence of the sun, and which had hitherto been
+unnoticed by the light of lamps and candles. Like our mustard and cress,
+we were devoid of all colour, yet apparently in good and sound health.
+There is something essentially health-preserving and life-giving in the
+rays of the sun, without which everything must wither and eventually
+die. This was, in the sequel, but too fully exemplified in our case. For
+although we were all in excellent spirits and supposed ourselves to be
+in perfect health, yet the seeds of that terrible disease, which
+subsequently crippled us so disastrously, must have already germinated
+unknown to ourselves.
+
+But little did we suspect, at that time, the approach of the evil that
+eventually overtook us.
+
+Many of the large floe-bergs near the ship were observed to be literally
+rent in twain, owing in all probability to the contraction of the ice by
+the intense cold--the outer part of the floeberg being exposed to a
+greater cold than the interior. These rents will also account for the
+loud sharp reports that were frequently heard during the winter, and
+which were for some time wrapped in mystery.
+
+Towards the end of February a few hares were seen, and two or three were
+shot; but they were very timid and shy, and seldom gave our sportsmen
+opportunities of exhibiting their prowess. Lemming tracks were
+abundant, and occasionally these little animals would be seen running
+along the snow. Nellie regarded them as being created for her especial
+enjoyment in hunting, and would vainly endeavour to unsnow them after
+they had taken refuge in their holes. Woe betide the unfortunate little
+lemming observed by Nellie at any distance from its habitation. A dash,
+a gobble, and all was over! In vain did we try to break her of these
+murderous propensities, not only for the sake of the victims but also
+for herself, as the swallowing of little balls of fur cannot be
+conducive to health. All was futile! Nellie considered the chase of
+these little creatures as an undoubted privilege with which no one
+should interfere.
+
+[Illustration: LEMMINGS.]
+
+The long twilight enabled us to extend our rambles, and we visited the
+snow hut built by Rawson last autumn when attempting to get south, about
+five or six miles from the ship, and in which he had deposited a small
+quantity of provisions. To our surprise we discovered that, with the
+exception of the pemmican which was in a tin, and the tobacco, all had
+disappeared! Biscuit, bacon, tea, sugar, and cocoa, all had gone. A hole
+through the roof of the house pointed at once to the means of ingress;
+but who were the thieves? Foxes or wolves had not been seen, nor had any
+traces of them been observed!
+
+Even supposing these animals to be the depredators, how did they effect
+their escape from the house after once they had got in? It was simple
+enough to scrape a hole through the roof and jump down; but it was not
+so easy to jump straight up a height of six or seven feet through a
+small hole! Suspicion fell for some time on our long-missing dog Sallie;
+but it was never satisfactorily ascertained whether dog, wolf, or fox
+was the culprit. Of one thing there could be no doubt. The robbery had
+been committed by a very cunning and intelligent beast. Spots of blood
+on the pemmican tin showed unmistakeably that this also had been
+attempted, but had proved too hard and strong. The tracks, which were
+always to and from the floe, were too indistinct to enable us to make
+out the nature of the animal, but the general idea was that it was a
+fox.
+
+Of course, with returning daylight, the serious work of sledging and the
+preparations for the spring campaign occupied our attention to the
+exclusion of almost everything else. On Saturday, the 26th of February,
+our school assembled for the last time, the classes being dismissed in
+the evening only to reassemble again if the ship spent another winter
+away from England. It would not be fair to dismiss our pupils without a
+word of commendation. Their attendance was most regular, and their
+efforts to learn beyond all praise. Nothing could exceed their
+diligence, nor excel their desire to please and reflect credit upon
+their masters, and I do hope that many will have benefited by the
+instruction they received in their Arctic school.
+
+On Thursday, the 24th of February, was performed our last dramatic
+entertainment. The following was the programme.
+
+
+  ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
+
+  H.M.S. "Alert."
+
+  Thursday, 24th February, 1876.
+
+  [finger symbol] Last performance of the season.
+
+  GRAND REPRESENTATION
+    of the
+  Original pathetico-comico-burlesque operetta entitled the
+  LITTLE VULGAR BOY,
+    or
+  WEEPING BILL.
+
+  Founded on the celebrated Ingoldsby Legend, "Misadventures at
+  Margate."
+
+  Written expressly for the occasion by the
+  Rev. H. W. PULLEN.
+
+  Scenery by Professor Moss, M.D. Music by Lieut. Aldrich.
+  Manager: Lieut. May.
+
+  Preceded by
+
+  Reading   "The Blessed Babies"   Mr. Hunt.
+  Song      "Fie, for shame"       Mr. Symons.
+
+  CHARACTERS:
+
+  Mr. Brown, an old buffer, slightly green        Commander Markham.
+
+  Mrs. Jones, a landlady, slightly cross, but with a keen eye to
+    business                                      G. Le C. Egerton, Esq.
+
+  Jack Robinson; a seafaring man, slightly figurative in his language,
+    and violently in love with Mrs. Jones         Lieut. Giffard.
+
+  Weeping Bill, a little vulgar boy, slightly out at elbows, and fairly
+    sharp for his age                             Lieut. Rawson.
+
+  K 55, the irrepressible Bobby, slightly self-important, and the natural
+    enemy of Weeping Bill                         Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+
+  Scenes 1 and 3     The Jetty at Margate.
+  Scenes 2 and 4     Mrs. Jones's lodgings.
+
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+This piece, as set forth in the bill, was written expressly for the
+occasion by Pullen, and not only did he compose it, but he also assisted
+in its performance. It was a very successful hit, and was most
+deservedly applauded, loud cries of "Author" following the fall of the
+curtain.
+
+The ensuing Thursday witnessed the last of our "Thursday Pops," and this
+terminated our season's festivities. At it Captain Nares delivered a
+very able and instructive lecture on his sledging experiences, bringing
+a few "facts" home to the men, as to the sort of work they were about to
+perform, and the kind of life they would have to lead. His announcement
+that we should, in all probability, spend another winter in the Arctic
+Regions was hailed with delight. He also announced his intention of
+returning to England before the third winter, provided no unforeseen
+event happened to detain the expedition.
+
+The following was the programme for the evening's entertainment.
+
+
+  THURSDAY POPS.
+
+  H.M.S. "Alert."
+
+  [finger symbol] _Positively the last entertainment this winter._
+
+  March 2, 1876.
+
+  The season's festivities will terminate with the following
+  programme:--
+
+  1. The Palæocrystic Sea and Sledging Experiences       Capt. Nares.
+  2. Ballad . . "The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_"        Mr. Cane.
+  3. Song . . "Susan's Sunday out"                    Mr. Stuckberry.
+  4. Reading . "Two Bab Ballads"                   Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+  5. Ballad. . "Over the Sea"                            Mr. Maskell.
+  6. Song . . "Rummy old Codger"                          Mr. Pearce.
+  7. Ballad. . "Seeing Nelly home"                          Mr. Self.
+  8. Recitation . "On the Arctic Expedition, by J. D."   Sergt. Wood.
+  9. Song . "Billy Woods the grocer"                        Mr. Gore.
+  10. Ballad . "Beating of my own heart"                   Mr. Ayles.
+  11. Part Song . "O who will o'er the downs so free"
+                           Messrs. Aldrich, Pullen, May, and Wootton.
+
+  To conclude with the grand Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus, by the entire
+  strength of the house.
+
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+This chapter would be incomplete without the words of the "Grand
+Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus."
+
+This was also composed by our talented poet laureate, and was most
+enthusiastically received by the whole ship's company, who vociferously
+joined in singing it on all appropriate, and other, occasions.
+
+It brought in the names of all the sledges that were employed in the
+early part of the spring campaign, and became henceforth, as it were,
+the "Arctic National Anthem."
+
+
+  CHORUS.
+
+  Not very long ago,
+  On the six-foot floe
+    Of the palæocrystic sea,
+  Two ships did ride,
+  Mid the crashing of the tide--
+    The _Alert_ and the _Discovery_.
+
+  The sun never shone
+  The gallant crews upon
+    For a hundred and forty-two days;
+  But no darkness and no hummocks
+  Their merry hearts could flummox:
+  So they set to work and acted plays.
+
+  There was music and song
+  To help the hours along,
+    Brought forth from the good ship's store;
+  And each man did his best
+  To amuse and cheer the rest:
+    And "nobody can't do more."
+
+
+  AIR--"The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_."
+
+  Here's a health to _Marco Polo_[1]--
+  May he reach his northern goal, oh!
+    And advance the flag of England into realms unknown!
+  May the _Challenger_[2] be there,
+  All comers bold to dare,
+    And _Victoria_[3] be victorious in the frozen zone!
+
+  May our _Poppie_[4] be in sight,
+  With her colours streaming bright,
+    And the _Bulldog_[5] tug on merrily from strand to strand!
+  And the _Alexandra_[6] brave
+  See our banner proudly wave
+    O'er the highest cliffs and summits of the northernmost land!
+
+  Here's a health to _Hercules_,[7]
+  Whom the autumn blast did freeze,
+    And all our gallant fellows whom the frost laid low!
+  Just wait a little longer,
+  Till they get a trifle stronger,
+    And they'll never pull the worse because they've lost a toe.
+
+  Here's a health, with three times three,
+  To the brave _Discovery_,[8]
+    And our merry, merry guests, so truly welcome here!
+  And a brimming bumper yet
+  To our valiant little pet--
+    The lively _Clements Markham_,[9] with its bold charioteer!
+
+  Here's a health to all true blue,
+  To the officers and crew
+    Who man this Expedition neat and handy, oh!
+  And may they ever prove,
+  Both in sledging and in love,
+    That the tars of old Britannia are the dandy, oh!
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Commander Markham's sledge.
+
+  [2] Lieut. Aldrich's sledge.
+
+  [3] Lieut. Parr's sledge.
+
+  [4] Lieut. Giffard's sledge.
+
+  [5] Dr. Moss's sledge.
+
+  [6] Mr. White's sledge.
+
+  [7] Lieut. May's sledge.
+
+  [8] Lieut. Rawson's sledge.
+
+  [9] Mr. Egerton's sledge.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+RETURN OF THE SUN.
+
+
+  "Most glorious orb! that were a worship, ere
+   The mystery of thy making was revealed!
+   Thou earliest minister of the Almighty
+   Which gladdened on their mountain tops the hearts
+   Of the Chaldean shepherds, till they poured
+   Themselves in orisons."
+
+     BYRON.
+
+The 29th of February was the day on which, according to astronomical
+rules, the reappearance of the sun was to rejoice the hearts and gladden
+the eyes of our little party. On the previous day, a general holiday had
+been proclaimed to give the men a chance, by ascending some of the hills
+in our neighbourhood, of welcoming the sun a day earlier. In this,
+however, they were doomed to disappointment. The glorious orb would not
+come out to be welcomed; for the simple reason that it was still just
+below the horizon. We were, however, rewarded by seeing its rays
+reflected in the northern sky, which was beautifully illumined with the
+most brilliant prismatic colours. Cairn Hill, and the hills to the
+southward by Cape Rawson, were the chief points of observation. The
+former was abreast of the ship, and about a mile distant; its height
+being about four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. On
+the summit was built a large cairn, hence its name. On the cairn was
+reared a long staff, to which was hoisted an iron oil cask, so as to
+form a conspicuous landmark to guide wanderers back to their ship.
+
+[Illustration: CAIRN HILL.]
+
+By ten o'clock on the forenoon of the 29th, the ship was nearly
+deserted, and officers and men could be seen dotting the floe and
+snow-covered ranges as they wended their way to the most prominent
+adjacent hills, on which little knots of men could already be seen
+assembled, in order to catch a glimpse of the rising sun. We feared,
+however, on starting, that we should be again disappointed, as there was
+no clear sea horizon to the southward, and the sun would hardly have
+sufficient altitude to show itself above the distant land. These fears
+were not without foundation, as the result proved.
+
+Shortly before noon our excitement was intense as a bright ray shot up
+vertically from the sun's position and illumined the summits of the
+surrounding ranges, whilst a radiant light was shed around.
+
+  "As rays around the source of light
+  Stream upward ere he glow in sight,
+  And watching by his future flight
+  Set the clear heavens on fire."
+
+Our hopes grew high as noon drew near, but again were we disappointed,
+and again were we compelled to return to the ship, defeated in our
+object of welcoming back the "Prodigal Sun!"
+
+The next day was cloudy, but on the following one, by going aloft about
+ten o'clock, we had the satisfaction of announcing that about one-third
+of the sun's disc was visible, as it crept slowly along the southern
+horizon. Instantly the rigging swarmed with men, scrambling up with
+elephantine agility to greet the fiery orb after its long absence, and
+looking more like animated bales of furs than human beings. It appeared
+of a deep reddish orange colour, but was so distorted by refraction that
+its shape was more that of a truncated cone than a spherical body.
+
+By noon Cairn Hill was covered with expectant visitors, and well were
+they repaid for the trouble of the ascent. Although little of the sun
+could be seen above the distant land, we knew that it was there, and
+what we did see was bright, and _appeared_ with a slight stretch of the
+imagination to be warm!
+
+Romeo's words--
+
+  "Night's candles are burnt out,
+   And jocund day stands
+   Tip-toe on the misty mountain tops,"
+
+were on our lips as we beheld the beautiful colours in the northern sky.
+The roseate tints blending with the violet seemed to belong more to
+southern climes than to the sterile inclement regions that we were
+inhabiting. The summits of the hills, the "misty mountain tops," were
+bathed in its glorious rays, whilst its luminous beams danced and
+glimmered along the distant ice-floes. It was a bright and glorious
+sight, and we remained long admiring it, and revelling in its rays--in
+fact, until warned by a peculiar sensation in our feet that the
+temperature was actually 100° below freezing-point; and however ecstatic
+we might feel at the reappearance of the sun, Jack Frost still reigned
+supreme, exacting implicit obedience to his will, and making those who
+disregarded his injunctions suffer for their heedlessness.
+
+Undoubtedly the Arctic Regions, and the farther north the better, would
+be a good place for Parsees; for none of the followers of Zoroaster
+could have exhibited more anxiety for the return, and more delight at
+the appearance, of their deity, than we did before and after the bright
+rays of the sun first fell upon us! Their god Fire would also receive,
+during the long cold Polar winter, the utmost homage and attention. Sun
+and Fire worshippers would require in these regions little to stimulate
+them to devotion.
+
+Strange to say, our extreme cold came with the returning sun. During
+the latter end of February the temperature had been gradually getting
+lower and lower, until on the 4th of March it had fallen to -74°, or
+106° below freezing-point. This was the lowest recorded by the
+expedition, obtained from the mean of several thermometers, and, so far
+as we could ascertain, the lowest really authentic corrected observation
+that has ever been registered in any part of the globe. From noon of the
+3rd until noon of the 4th the mean temperature was -69°.68, whilst the
+lowest mean temperature registered for any twenty-four consecutive hours
+was from four A.M. of the former until four A.M. of the last-mentioned
+day -70°.31. From six P.M. on March 2nd until six A.M. of March 4th,
+namely thirty-six consecutive hours, the mean temperature was as low as
+-69°.93´, and for the week ending March 4th the mean temperature was
+-60°!
+
+It was amusing to observe the eager excitement with which every one
+received the latest intelligence regarding the state of the thermometer,
+and when it was announced that the "lowest on record" had been
+registered, there was a general shout of exultation. During the intense
+cold several experiments were tried by exposing various substances to
+its influence, and with the following results. Glycerine, on which a
+temperature of -50° had little effect, became, at -70°, perfectly solid
+and quite transparent. Rectified spirits of wine became of the
+consistency of hair-oil. Concentrated rum, 40° over-proof, froze hard
+when exposed in a shallow vessel like a saucer, but when in a large
+quantity it resembled honey or molasses in consistency. Whiskey froze
+hard, and we actually broke off bits and ate it! In consequence of this
+latter proceeding we have since our return to England been, not without
+reason, accused of "hard drinking," an accusation we are, of course,
+unable to refute! Chloroform was the only substance on which the low
+temperature had no apparent effect. Our temperatures were obtained by
+taking the mean of ten thermometers that were exposed, to which result
+was applied the corrections from Kew for each instrument. These had been
+ascertained when the instruments were tested at the Kew observatory
+before leaving England. The corrections and errors of the instruments
+could, of course, only be approximately ascertained after the
+freezing-point of mercury had been passed, as there was nothing beyond
+that with which the spirit could be compared. The slightest impurity of
+the spirit used, or the presence of even the most minute portions of
+extraneous matter in it, would no doubt seriously affect the accuracy of
+the observation. As an instance of the range exhibited by these
+instruments, it may be interesting to know that one thermometer
+indicated as low a temperature as -82°, while, _at the same time_,
+another showed only -60°; but by applying the errors deduced at Kew, the
+result was as nearly as possible the same. I think that the minimum
+temperature recorded by us was, if not absolutely correct, as nearly so
+as it was possible to arrive at.
+
+Although we never again experienced such a severe burst of cold as we
+did during the first few days of March, the temperature remained
+extraordinarily low, and mercury was in a frozen state during nearly the
+whole of that month. The presence of the sun appeared to have little
+effect on the temperature, but thermometers exposed to its rays would
+frequently rise as high as zero, and sometimes above that point.
+
+The difference of temperature at the summit and at the base of Cairn
+Hill, whose height, as has been stated, was four hundred and fifty feet,
+was 5½°, the thermometer rising as the hill was ascended, and falling
+again as it was brought down.
+
+Traces of ptarmigan had frequently been observed in the snow, but it was
+not until the 22nd of March that the first bird was seen, although our
+sportsmen had been most diligent in their search for them. On that day
+two of our pedestrians succeeding in flushing one solitary ptarmigan,
+but, as is usual in such cases, they were without guns. Very few of
+these birds were afterwards seen in the neighbourhood of the "Alert."
+Their appearance caused some little excitement, for we looked upon them
+as the harbingers of spring, and as a token that our long winter had
+well-nigh terminated.
+
+On the 25th of March, there was a partial eclipse of the sun, which was
+clearly visible to all those who took the trouble to go on deck and,
+with a piece of smoked or coloured glass, examine it in spite of a very
+low temperature. The first contact was observed at six minutes past four
+in the afternoon, and the egress at six o'clock. About .65, or little
+more than half the sun, was obscured.
+
+During the middle of March the quarter-deck housing was removed, and we
+were again able to enjoy daylight on the upper deck. Although the low
+temperature did not yet admit of our removing the snow from the
+hatchways and skylights, yet we were able to clear the tops of our cabin
+illuminators, and thus obtain below a slight amount of daylight,
+sufficient at any rate to obviate the necessity of incessant
+candle-light during the day. It was not until the middle of May, whilst
+the sledge travellers were absent, that the skylights were cleared and
+the snow removed from the upper deck.
+
+Fire is the most disastrous accident that can possibly happen to a ship
+wintering in the Arctic Regions, and it should be most carefully guarded
+against. It may result in having your house, together with all your
+provisions, consumed, and yourselves, perhaps not burnt, but destined
+for even a more terrible fate, namely, turned out on the ice without
+food and without shelter, exposed to a pitiless temperature, with no
+covering or protection of any description. Such a situation would prove
+fatal in a few hours. Men so placed would realize the dreadful fate so
+vividly and graphically described by Jules Verne as having befallen
+Captain Hatteras and his companions when their ship was destroyed and
+they were deserted by their shipmates.
+
+In the "Alert" we had one alarm from fire, which, although it might have
+ended disastrously, did very little injury. It originated in our
+"drying-room," where, through the carelessness of the man in charge,
+some of the clothes had been allowed to hang in dangerous proximity to
+the stove. These igniting quickly communicated the fire to the
+surrounding objects, and for a little time it was doubtful whether the
+conflagration might not assume a very serious aspect. In spite of the
+occurrence happening at night-time, the men exerted themselves with such
+good will that the fire was speedily extinguished, with no further
+damage done than the destruction of a few clothes, although it was some
+time before we could rid ourselves of the smoke, which unpleasantly
+permeated the whole ship. The temperature at the time was 58° below
+zero, which would have rendered the work of supplying water from the
+fire-hole not only a difficult, but also a dangerous task, and one which
+must have resulted in many severe frost-bites.
+
+During the latter part of the month of March the officers were employed
+in dismounting the various instruments in the observatories, carefully
+packing and putting them away, as most of them would not be required
+again until the following winter. This was a very necessary proceeding,
+as before the return of the officers from sledge travelling the
+observatories with all their "fixings," such as pedestals, etc., being
+composed of snow, would have melted away during the summer thaw. By the
+end of the month the observatories were entirely stripped and left bare,
+when they gradually fell into decay. "Woolwich" was also "unsnowed," and
+the powder brought off to the ship and stowed in the magazine.
+
+In addition to all this work, the crews of the different sledges
+destined to take part in the spring campaign were, in this month of
+March, specially exercised, under their respective officers, for several
+hours during the day. Their regular daily exercise had also been
+carefully attended to throughout the winter.
+
+Occasionally they were employed laying out depôts of provisions to the
+southward, to be used by the sledge parties proceeding northwards from
+the "Discovery," or sometimes dragging their laden sledges over the pack
+in the immediate vicinity of the ship, with the object of gaining
+experience in crossing ridges of hummocks, and of realizing the kind of
+travelling with which they were so soon to become more intimately
+acquainted. These little journeys gave us an insight into the endless
+difficulties that we were hereafter called upon to contend with, and the
+obstacles we were destined to surmount. We foresaw that we should have
+"stiffish" work before us, but we did not doubt that we should render a
+good and satisfactory account of the duty entrusted to us.
+
+After several cries of "wolf," one actually did make its appearance on
+the 1st of April. Early in the morning of that day an animal had been
+observed, by the quarter-master of the watch, stealthily prowling round
+the ship. Supposing it to be a bear, the alarm was given and one or two
+of our hunters went in chase. More would undoubtedly have followed their
+example, but recollecting the day, they preferred remaining in their
+warm beds for an hour longer to the risk of being informed, when they
+came on deck fully equipped for the chase, that it was the 1st of April!
+
+The traces left in the snow showed unmistakeably the character of our
+visitor. Instead of being a bear, it proved to be a wolf, but so alarmed
+was it at the disturbance made on board that it scampered over the hills
+and eluded our pursuit. That same afternoon, however, accompanied by my
+usual companion Nellie, I took a long walk to the southward, following
+the trail of the wolf for some distance. On my return, and when about
+two miles and a half from the ship, I happened to look round, and there,
+about a hundred yards off, and following in my track, was a tall, gaunt,
+raw-boned and famished-looking wolf. He was of a yellowish colour, and
+in size larger than our biggest Eskimo dog. Of course, as is generally
+the way in cases of this sort, I was totally unprovided with arms of
+any description, and was therefore unable to add his skin to our natural
+history collection. I cannot say whether Nellie or her master offered
+the greatest attraction to this animal; but whichever it might be, he
+followed us, sometimes at not more than ten yards distance, stopping if
+we stopped, and advancing when we advanced, until we were within about
+half a mile from the ship, when some of my messmates coming out to meet
+me, he bolted over the hills and made his escape. My great anxiety at
+the time was for my poor old Nellie, who showed a great inclination to
+become better acquainted with the wolf, and I had the utmost difficulty
+in restraining her. Whenever she strayed a little from my heel, the
+brute would make a bolt at her, and I have little doubt that she would
+have been killed if he had once succeeded in his endeavours. On the same
+evening we discovered the tracks of four musk-oxen, but although we
+followed them up for many miles we did not succeed in seeing them. The
+fact of the latter being in our neighbourhood fully accounted for the
+presence of the wolf, who was no doubt following their tracks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+
+  "Give me some ink and paper in my tent,
+   I'll draw the form and model of our battle:
+   Limit each leader to his several charge,
+   And put in just proportions our small force."
+
+     _Richard III._
+
+[Illustration: SLEDGE UNDER SAIL.]
+
+Hitherto I have purposely abstained from alluding to our spring
+operations, as I thought that it would be better to devote a separate
+chapter exclusively to the account of the details of sledge equipment.
+But it must not be supposed, because I have omitted to say anything
+about the sledging during the winter, that it was neglected, and that
+our time was entirely occupied with our amusements and observatory
+duties. Such was not the case. The preparations for the spring campaign
+and the organization of our sledge parties in all its details were very
+carefully thought over and matured during the long dark hours of the
+winter. All works on this subject had been diligently read, in order
+that we might benefit by the experience of our predecessors. Nothing was
+neglected that could in any way conduce to the success of the
+enterprise, and everything that could possibly add to the health and
+comfort of those to be employed on work of such an arduous nature was
+carefully considered. The sledges, tents, and other equipments necessary
+for travelling had been constructed under the personal superintendence
+of Sir Leopold McClintock, who is the highest living authority on Arctic
+sledge travelling. A few alterations, which we trusted would also be
+improvements, were suggested by the experience gained during the autumn,
+and these were all carried out before the return of the sun. The results
+justified our anticipations. Out of the four different kinds of sledges
+supplied to the expedition those which found most favour with us, and
+with which the greatest part of the work was done, were the eight-men
+sledges.[1] These dragged easier, and were stronger than either the
+smaller or larger description of sledges. So long as the travelling
+remains good, that is smooth and level ice with hard snow on its
+surface, these sledges may be loaded to 240 lbs. for each man to drag,
+and a good day's work to be accomplished. This weight, of course, would
+only be dragged on first leaving the ship, or a depôt, and decreases at
+the rate of about 3 lbs. per man per diem, the amount of provisions
+consumed by each individual. What are called the "constant" weights,
+which include the sledge, tent, robes, cooking apparatus, pickaxe,
+shovel, etc., remain unaltered during the journey. The question of
+weight is one requiring the closest attention.
+
+Every trifling article, even to a small packet of a _dozen pins_ placed
+in the medicine chest, has to be weighed and recorded in the general
+equipment. The following table shows the weight of the various articles
+(being constant weights) required for the equipment of an Arctic sledge
+for forty-five days:--
+
+EQUIPMENT OF AN EIGHT-MEN SLEDGE, PROVISIONED FOR AN ABSENCE OF
+FORTY-FIVE DAYS.
+
+                                              lb.  oz.
+  Sledge (complete)                           130   0
+  Tent (complete)                              44   0
+  Tent poles, five in number                   25   0
+  Coverlet                                     31   8
+  Extra coverlet (used only in cold weather)   20   0
+  Lower robe                                   23   0
+  Waterproof floor-cloth                       15   0
+  Sail                                          9   4
+  Eight sleeping bags                          64   0
+  Eight knapsacks (packed)                     96   0
+  Two pickaxes                                 14   8
+  Shovel                                        6   8
+  Store bag                                    25   0
+  Cooking gear                                 29   0
+  Gun and ammunition                           25   0
+  Medical stores                               12   0
+  Instruments                                  15   0
+                                              -------
+                   Constant weights           584  12
+  Forty-five days' provisions for eight men
+  (including packages)                       1080   0
+                                             --------
+                               Total         1664  12
+
+which, dragged by seven men, is equivalent to about 238 lbs. per man to
+drag.
+
+This should never be exceeded, nor should it even be kept up for any
+length of time.
+
+It will thus be seen that it is impossible for a sledge party to be
+absent from the ship for more than seven weeks, at the outside, on its
+own resources. In order, therefore, to enable it to remain away for a
+longer period, depôts of provisions are established during the autumn on
+the line of route, and auxiliary sledges are despatched in the spring
+from which the extended parties may be replenished with provisions after
+they have been away from the ship some two or three weeks. These
+auxiliary sledges, on their return, are again completed with provisions
+and sent out to meet the extended parties on their way back. By these
+means, a sledging party may remain away for as long as twelve or
+thirteen weeks.
+
+Depôts can only be laid out when there is a continuous coast line, and
+under circumstances when a _cache_ containing provisions can easily be
+discovered. When the frozen ocean has to be traversed, depôts cannot be
+depended upon; for a movement of the ice, or the misfortune of wandering
+off the outward bound track during thick weather, would deprive the
+travellers of any chance of finding their supplies. The result in such a
+case would probably be fatal. The only way of ensuring an extended
+absence to a party sledging over the pack, is by sending with it an
+additional sledge. This, of course, entails the necessity of traversing
+the same road three times over. For the men must never under any
+circumstances (other than unavoidable necessity, caused by the sickness
+of some of the crew) be allowed to drag more than the outside weight of
+240 lbs. at any one time.
+
+It would, I think, and I am now speaking from experience, be preferable,
+when such a journey is necessary, to send a sledge away for only six
+weeks rather than to provision a party for three months, and compel the
+men to undergo the monotonous and wearisome work of going over the same
+ground so often; and, I believe, quite as much work would be
+accomplished.
+
+The tents were all made of the lightest duck,[2] which was sufficient
+to protect us from the falling or drifting snow, and the keen cutting
+wind. The space inside was, of necessity, very limited; the width in
+which each man had to sleep being only fourteen inches. Whilst his head
+was touching one side of the tent, his feet were in contact with the
+other. The slightest movement of the sleeper during the night would
+disturb his neighbours on either side.
+
+The entrance to the tent had a porch attached to it, which was, of
+course, always carefully closed, and served to exclude the fine
+snow-drift that would otherwise have penetrated into the interior. The
+opposite side of the tent was fitted in a similar manner for the
+protection of the cook whilst engaged in preparing the meals. The duties
+of the cook during intensely cold weather entail hardships which it is
+scarcely possible to overrate. The poor cook is never in his sleeping
+bag until two or three hours after the rest of the party have been
+comfortably settled for the night, and he has always to rise in the
+morning a couple of hours before his comrades are disturbed, and this
+after a hard and fatiguing day's work. His cooking apparatus consists of
+a spirit lamp, a stearine lamp, a kettle, and a stew-pan. His fuel is
+either spirits of wine, or cocoa-nut stearine; and as the allowance of
+either is strictly limited, he has to be as economical as he possibly
+can. Should his fuel be consumed before the meal is cooked, he will get
+no more, and the pemmican will have to be eaten in a semi-frozen state.
+The odour and smoke emitted by the stearine can only be appreciated by
+those who have served their apprenticeship as cooks to an Arctic sledge
+party! Many experiments were tried during the winter to improve our
+cooking apparatus, but few were attended with success. Mr. White devoted
+a good deal of thought and time to this important matter. By introducing
+a cone into the kettle and stew-pan he succeeded in gaining a decided
+advantage in rapidity of cooking, but then his plan also had its
+disadvantages, a difficulty of cleaning and an encroachment on valuable
+space being the chief objections to it. By giving the bottom of the pans
+and kettles a little more concavity, we gained a slight advantage in
+point of time, and time in cooking also means an economy of fuel. The
+tent robes, coverlets, and sleeping bags were all made of duffel. The
+knapsacks were made of duck, and contained the only spare clothing that
+each man was allowed to take. The contents consisted of two pairs of
+blanket wrappers, one pair of wadmill hose, one pair of moccasins, a
+skull-cap for sleeping in, a woollen cap presented to each person in the
+expedition by H.I.M. the Empress Eugénie, two pairs of mitts, a flannel
+shirt, a pair of drawers, a comforter, a pair of snow-spectacles, a
+towel, and a piece of soap. The latter was rather a superfluous article
+until the thaw set in.
+
+The store bag contained the pemmican chopper and board, a snow-knife and
+saw, some spare lashings of hide for the sledge, matches, slow match,
+twine, and various other small and useful articles.
+
+The scale of provisions to be used whilst sledging was almost identical
+with that of preceding expeditions, the only difference being that we
+reduced the allowance of spirits by half and doubled the amount of tea
+and sugar. The following was the daily ration for each man:--
+
+                                lb. oz.
+  Pemmican                       1   0
+  Bacon                          0   4
+  Biscuit                        0  14
+  Preserved potatoes             0   2
+  Chocolate                      0   1
+  Sugar for ditto                0   0.5
+  Tea for two meals              0   0.5
+  Sugar for ditto                0   1.5
+  Salt                           0   0.25
+  Pepper                         0   0.05
+  Onion powder or curry paste    0   0.125
+  Rum                            0   2
+  Spirits of wine                0   2
+  Stearine                       0   3
+  Tobacco (weekly)               0   3.5
+
+This we found a very ample allowance, and one that could not, in my
+opinion, be improved upon. The different articles were excellent of
+their kind, and of very superior quality.
+
+Since our return to England, fault has been found with our leader
+because lime-juice was not included in the scale of dietary for the
+sledges, during April, as a daily ration. Our scale of diet was
+necessarily based on that of preceding expeditions, and we had no reason
+to expect that we should suffer from that dread disease, scurvy, any
+more than did our predecessors. Lime-juice had never before been taken
+as a daily ration by an extended sledge party, and Sir Leopold
+McClintock, the highest living authority, has since publicly declared
+that, in following the precedents established by former experience as
+regards the lime-juice, Sir George Nares acted exactly as he would have
+done under the same circumstances. Moreover, the lime-juice was
+supplied in a form that made it impossible to use during an Arctic
+March, April, or May, away from the ship. It was in bottles or very
+large heavy jars, and, of course, the moment such vessels were placed
+near a fire to thaw their contents, in such a temperature, they would
+have been cracked to pieces. This is a conclusive answer to those who,
+without experience, and ignorant of the conditions under which we
+travelled, have expressed opinions on this subject. After May, when it
+was possible to use it, lime-juice was always taken by our sledge
+parties as a daily ration. When we came home, the use was suggested of
+lime-juice lozenges, and the Medical Director General has proposed that
+lime-juice should be mixed with pemmican. It is certainly very much to
+be regretted that some such arrangements were not made and carried out
+before the expedition left England. It will be seen (if lime-juice would
+really have prevented the attack of scurvy) how terribly we had to
+suffer from the consequences of the omission.
+
+Lieutenant Parr and myself each took two bottles of lime-juice, with the
+intention of using it when the warm weather of June arrived. It was not
+possible to use it to any advantage, hard frozen in a bottle, during
+March, April, or May.
+
+Dr. Colan drew up very careful medical instructions for the commanders
+of sledges, and each received some elementary surgical instruction. The
+doctor also paid most anxious attention to the contents of the medical
+chest, the weight of which was not allowed to exceed 12 lbs.[3]
+
+The clothing worn by the men engaged in the sledging operations was
+somewhat different from that in use during the winter. Our under
+clothing was made of thick flannel. Over this we wore one or two flannel
+or check shirts, long sleeved woollen waist-coats, thick knitted
+guernseys, and duffel trousers, the latter reaching about a foot below
+the knee. All wore broad flannel belts, commonly called cholera belts,
+round their loins. On our heads we had woollen helmet caps, called by
+the men "Eugenies," and over this was worn a thick sealskin cap with ear
+and neck flaps attached.
+
+Our feet were encased in blanket wrappers, one or two pairs according to
+the temperature, a pair of thick woollen hose reaching above the knees
+and worn over the trousers, and moccasins. The latter, as supplied to
+us, only came up round the ankle, so we fitted them with leggings. Those
+who were provided with chamois leather made their leggings of that
+material, but the majority cut the sleeves off their check shirts which,
+when sewn on to the moccasin, answered admirably, their chief use being
+to keep the snow from penetrating into the trousers. Some of the
+moccasins were also soled with leather, obtained by cutting off the
+upper part of the fishermen's boots, a pair of which had been supplied
+to each person. As a rule these soles were quickly worn out, and the men
+were soon reduced to the bare moccasin, which, however, lasted
+wonderfully.
+
+Large gauntlet mitts were made during the winter, of fearnought covered
+with duck, and worn with a strap round the neck. These were only
+supplied to the sledgers, and were found very useful. At night-time they
+were used on the feet in the sleeping bags, and certainly assisted very
+materially in keeping them warm. Finally each person was provided with a
+suit of duck overalls, to act as "snow repellers," which were always
+worn whilst on the march. As an extra precaution against snow-blindness,
+the men were ordered to paint some device on the backs of these snow
+jumpers in order to afford a certain amount of relief to the eyes of
+their comrades. The designs of these devices or crests were left
+entirely to the artistic imaginations of the men, and they caused a good
+deal of merriment. They were certainly more quaint than elegant. Donkeys
+and Polar bears in various wonderful positions appeared to be in the
+greatest favour. Each crest was accompanied by a motto, invariably a
+Latin one. Whether these devices relieved us from severe attacks of
+snow-blindness or not it would be difficult to decide. They served at
+any rate to amuse us, and often formed the topic of conversation when
+other subjects were getting scarce. Snow-spectacles were invariably used
+by the travellers, and were only taken off after the party had halted
+for the night and had sought the shelter of their tent. In consequence
+of the adoption of these snow-goggles when we first set out on our
+travels, we were comparatively exempt from that painful disease,
+snow-blindness, from which other expeditions have more or less suffered,
+and which renders the patient so attacked utterly helpless. We
+occasionally had a few cases, but with one or two exceptions they were
+in a very mild form.
+
+Such were the details of the general equipment of the sledging parties
+that were despatched from the "Alert" in the spring of 1876. Officers
+and men shared alike in everything; they had the same provisions, their
+costume was identical, they shared the same couch and tent, and each
+showed the same zealous desire to perform his duty, and the same eager
+anxiety to bring to a successful issue the service on which they were
+employed.
+
+Although the whole of the available force on board the "Alert" was
+engaged in the sledging operations of the spring, we were only able to
+despatch _two_ extended parties.[4] The rest of the men and sledges were
+required to act as auxiliaries to the advanced parties, and were
+continually employed during the summer until the return of all the
+travellers brought our sledging operations to a conclusion.
+
+The programme to be carried out, and which was determined upon after
+very mature and careful deliberation, was for one party, the command of
+which was given to Aldrich the first lieutenant, to continue the
+discoveries of the autumn by exploring the coast line to the westward;
+whilst a larger party, which was entrusted to my conduct, was to push
+across the rugged polar pack, and endeavour to reach as high a northern
+latitude as possible. The exploration of the north side of Greenland, to
+the eastward, and the examination of the fiords in Robeson Channel, were
+left to the sledge parties from the "Discovery."
+
+The difficulties to be encountered and the serious obstacles to be
+overcome in the journey due north over the frozen sea were well
+understood. We had made ourselves acquainted with the nature of the
+travelling to be anticipated by various short excursions on the ice in
+the vicinity of the ship, and were, therefore, fully aware of the
+serious character of the work that was before us. None were so rash as
+to indulge in any extravagant ideas of successfully reaching a very high
+position. The parallel of 84°, or perhaps 85° by the more sanguine, was
+regarded as the highest that could possibly be attained.
+
+It was a well-known fact, before the ship went into winter quarters,
+that the polar pack, composed of extraordinarily heavy ice, was in
+motion at that season. This motion, or perhaps a general disruption,
+would occur, it was calculated, in about July or August, possibly in
+June. It was, therefore, not only a measure of prudence, but one of
+absolute necessity, that the party destined to travel over this frozen
+ocean should be provided with the means of safety to themselves, if a
+disruption should take place at an earlier period than was anticipated.
+It was therefore decided that two boats,[5] capable of conveying the
+whole party from one floe to another, should form part of the equipment
+of the northern division. This additional weight, of course, seriously
+augmented the labour of the men.
+
+The only previous attempt to advance over a frozen sea, away from the
+land, was made by Sir Edward Parry, in his memorable journey towards the
+North Pole in 1827.[6]
+
+For reasons already stated, the northern party was unable to lay out
+depôts on the ice, nor could our sledges be met by supporting sledges
+until after their return to the land. It therefore became necessary that
+they should carry with them sufficient provisions to last for the whole
+time of anticipated absence. This, with the boats, obliged the two
+sledge crews composing the division to take with them a _third_ sledge,
+so that under the most favourable conditions of travelling, they would
+be compelled, after advancing two sledges, to return over the same road
+and drag on the third. This we fondly hoped on starting we should be
+able to accomplish; little did we think that the fearfully rugged nature
+of the road would necessitate the same distance being traversed five or
+even seven times.
+
+For the same reason that the men were ordered to emblazon arms and
+crests on the backs of their clothes, we had the boats which were to
+accompany the sledges painted with gay and brilliant devices. The rose,
+shamrock, and thistle were painted on the hulls, and the royal arms
+decorated their sterns. Moss, on this as on other occasions, was the
+artist; his great difficulty in accomplishing the work being that in
+spite of the quantity of turpentine with which the paint was mixed, it
+persisted in freezing in the brush, rendering that article more like a
+stick than an artist's pencil.
+
+The sledges were, of course, all named by their commanders.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] The eight-men sledge has six uprights eighteen inches apart. It
+    is eleven feet long, three feet two inches wide, eleven inches high,
+    and weighs 130 lbs. complete. In former expeditions sails were
+    frequently used on the sledges to great advantage, when travelling
+    over smooth ice. But we were seldom so fortunate as to meet with ice
+    which was suitable for sailing, in any of our sledge journeys. May
+    and Egerton got their sledges under sail on an extensive floe in
+    Robeson Channel, when they crossed over to the Greenland side; but as
+    a rule the ice we met with was far too rough to make the use of sails
+    practicable. In rigging a sail on the sledge two tent poles are
+    lashed together as a yard, with a spare pole as a foot yard. The
+    other two tent poles are used as shears, and at their ends a
+    mast-head iron, or shear head, is fitted, consisting of two rings
+    united by a piece of iron about three inches long, from the centre of
+    which there is a hook on each side for the steadying guys, and a
+    small block for the halyards is seized on to the iron between the
+    rings. A spare cross-bar is placed on the top of the lading, over the
+    midship uprights, and lashed down to the bearer. It is fitted with a
+    span seized along its top-side, and the bights, with a thimble in
+    each, project just beyond the cross-bar. The ends of the shears are
+    then stepped into the thimbles attached to this cross-bar, and the
+    sail hoisted. On smooth ice, with the wind aft or on the quarter, a
+    sledge will travel under sail at a good pace. But smooth ice was
+    almost unknown in the region explored by our expedition.
+
+  [2] The tents were of light, close, unbleached duck. The eight-men
+    tents were nine feet four inches long at the bottom, and eight feet
+    at the top, seven feet wide and high, and weighed 44 lbs. The tent
+    ropes are six fathoms long of one and a quarter inch, and the tent
+    poles eight feet six inches long.
+
+  [3] The medical stores for each sledge were:--2 phials of sal
+    volatile and aromatic spirits of ammonia; 2 phials of laudanum; 2
+    phials of wine of opium; a small tin of Gregory's powders; 12 papers
+    (10 grains each) of Dover's powders; 32 papers (15 grains each) of
+    chalk powders; 30 papers (4 grains each) of sugar of lead; a bottle
+    of turpentine liniment; a phial of carbolic acid; glycerine ointment;
+    white ointment; carbolic plaster; 4 dozen purgative pills; oil silk.
+    Sponge, pins, expanding splints, and carbolized tow, cotton wool, a
+    catheter, a tourniquet, a truss with pad, a lancet, twill, Persian
+    gauze, 2 eye shades, small splint, scissors, flannel ice goggles,
+    tape, mustard, 3 calico bandages, 2 flannel bandages, and lint. These
+    stores were in a wooden case, and a medicine tin for bottles,
+    together weighing 4 lbs.; while their contents weighed 7 lbs. 11
+    ozs., together, 12 lbs.
+
+  [4] Our available force was much smaller than that of the expeditions
+    under Sir Horatio Austin (1850-51), and Sir Henry Kellet (1852-54).
+    They enjoyed the great advantage of having a third larger
+    force--ninety instead of sixty men.
+
+  [5] The sledges for carrying boats have the two end cross-bars fitted
+    with two cleats, one on each side of the boat's keel. These cleats
+    are seven inches long, and are securely lashed to the cross-bars. Two
+    battens of American elm, each two inches wide and half an inch thick,
+    are lashed in a fore and aft direction to the top of the cross-bars
+    three and a half inches apart, that is to say one and three-quarters
+    inch on each side of the central bearer. They are sufficiently long
+    to allow of being secured to all the cross-bars. When the boat is
+    placed on the sledge the keel rests on the cross-bars between the
+    cleats, and is held in an upright position by one long cushion of
+    stout canvas, stuffed with cork cuttings, on each side, and these are
+    kept in their places by lashings.
+
+  [6] As Sir Edward Parry's attempt to reach the Pole was the only
+    extended journey that was ever undertaken due north across the Polar
+    Sea, until the second attempt was made by the northern division of
+    sledges under my command, it will be well to give, in this place, the
+    details of Parry's equipment and the result of his expedition.
+
+    A Sir Edward Parry sailed from England in the "Hecla," on April 3rd,
+    1827; when placing her in a safe harbour on the north coast of
+    Spitzbergen, he commenced his memorable attempt to reach the Pole on
+    June 21st. He had two boats, the "Enterprise" and the "Endeavour."
+    Parry himself, with Mr. Beverley, was in the former, James Ross and
+    Edward Bird in the latter. Ten seamen and two marines formed the crew
+    of each boat. The boats were flat-bottomed, with the extreme breadth
+    of seven feet, carried well forward and aft, and twenty feet long,
+    the timbers of tough ash and hickory. On the outside frame a system
+    of planking was adopted with a view to securing elasticity in the
+    frequent concussions with the ice. This consisted of a covering of
+    waterproof canvas coated with tar, then a thin fir plank, then a
+    sheet of felt, and, lastly, a thin oak plank, all secured to the
+    timbers by iron screws. On each side of the keel there was a strong
+    runner shod with metal, like that of a sledge, on which the boats
+    entirely rested when on the ice. A hide span across the fore-part of
+    the runners had two horse-hair drag ropes attached to it. The boats
+    had two thwarts, a locker at each end, a light framework along the
+    sides for containing provisions and spare clothes, a bamboo mast, and
+    tanned duck sail, fourteen paddles, and a steer oar. They started
+    with seventy-one days' provisions. The weight of each boat was 1,539
+    lbs., and the total weight, with provisions, 3,753 lbs., or 268 lbs.
+    per man; besides four light taboggan sledges weighing 26 lbs. each.
+    The daily allowance for each man was 10 ozs. of biscuit, 9 ozs. of
+    pemmican, 1 oz. of cocoa, and 1 gill of rum. Parry took no
+    lime-juice. They slept in the boat with sails as awnings, and
+    travelled during the night.
+
+    They sailed in the boats until June 23rd, when it became necessary to
+    haul them on the ice in 81° 12´ 51´´ N. The actual travelling then
+    began over floes of small extent, intersected by hummocks. After a
+    journey of thirty days, Parry reached his most northern point on July
+    23rd, in latitude, by dead reckoning, 82° 45´ N. No actual
+    observation for latitude was obtained at their extreme northern
+    point. They had travelled ninety-two miles over the ice, and two
+    hundred in the boats before they hauled them on to the floe, but were
+    only one hundred and seventy-two miles from the "Hecla." Such had
+    been the drift of the floes to the southward. The boats returned to
+    the "Hecla" on August 21st, and Parry arrived in England again on
+    October 6th.
+
+    This journey was made in the middle of summer after the disruption of
+    the ice. The daily allowance of food for the men was insufficient,
+    and the weight of 26 lbs. for each man was too great. But these were
+    points which could only be learnt by experience, and Sir Edward Parry
+    was the pioneer of Arctic sledge travelling. He attained the highest
+    northern latitude ever before reached by man, and it was forty-eight
+    years and two months before any explorer succeeded in going beyond
+    the parallel which Parry reached in 1827.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON.
+
+
+  "You were used to say,
+   Extremity was the trier of spirits,
+   That common chances common men could bear,
+   That when the sea was calm, all boats alike
+   Showed mastership in floating."
+
+     SHAKESPEARE.
+
+It was a part of Captain Nares's scheme for the spring campaign that,
+before the departure of the extended parties, a dog sledge should be
+despatched to communicate with our consort wintering some fifty miles to
+the southward of us.
+
+The officers and men of the "Discovery" were, of course, in total
+ignorance of our position and even of our safety, for no communication
+had taken place between the two ships since the day of our departure
+from Discovery Harbour, seven months before. As soon as there was
+sufficient light to admit of travelling, the important and necessary
+duty had to be undertaken of conveying information to her respecting our
+position, so that the anxiety of her people concerning our safety might
+be relieved, and also that the Captain of the "Discovery" might be made
+acquainted with our intentions regarding the routes of exploration
+allotted to our sledge travellers. The parties from the "Discovery"
+would then adopt other routes, and thus the area of unknown country to
+he explored would be extended to the utmost limit possible. The work of
+the expedition, consisting of the journeys of the different parties from
+the two ships, taking different routes, would thus embrace all that
+human effort could achieve with the means provided.
+
+[Illustration: DOGS AND SLEDGE.]
+
+The duty of communicating with the "Discovery" was entrusted to Egerton;
+and Rawson, who was naturally desirous of re-visiting his ship, was
+allowed to accompany him. Their sledge was dragged by a team of nine
+dogs, and the party was provisioned and equipped for an absence of ten
+days. If they failed in accomplishing their object in that time, and
+their supplies became exhausted, they could replenish their stock from
+the large depôt that had been established during the previous autumn at
+a point about midway between the two ships, in Lincoln Bay. Petersen,
+the Danish interpreter, accompanied the two officers in the capacity of
+dog driver.
+
+In consequence of the very low temperature experienced during the first
+week in March, their time of departure had to be deferred. Sunday, the
+12th of March, was the day eventually selected for the start of this the
+first sledging expedition of the season.
+
+The temperature on that morning was low, but rose gradually towards
+noon, until it seemed inclined to remain stationary at 30° below zero.
+
+There were further indications of a continuance of fine weather, from
+the day being bright and clear and the barometer steady. Letters to our
+friends on board the "Discovery" were hastily finished. Immediately
+divine service had been performed the colours were hoisted, and amidst
+the cheers of "all hands," who had assembled on the floe to bid the
+travellers God speed, H.M. sledge "Clements Markham," with its bright
+standard fluttering out bravely before a light breeze, started with the
+object of renewing intercourse with our comrades in the "Discovery."
+
+For the next two or three days our thoughts on board were constantly
+with the absent ones, especially as the temperature, shortly after their
+departure, had again fallen very low. This, however, caused us little
+uneasiness, for we knew that everything that lay in our power had been
+done to protect them from any sudden and extreme cold, and we all had
+the greatest confidence in the skill, discretion, and sound judgment of
+our two messmates. Many a silent prayer was offered up in their behalf,
+that they might accomplish their mission in safety, and return speedily
+with good news of those who, like ourselves, were wintering in the ice.
+
+On the third day they returned unexpectedly with a sad tale of woe and
+suffering, and with the poor Dane utterly prostrate and helpless on the
+sledge. I cannot do better than relate the sad story in Lieutenant
+Egerton's own words.
+
+We read in his official report, that not five hours after they had left
+the ship "frost-bites became so numerous, that I thought it advisable to
+encamp."
+
+This was only the beginning of the story, for they appear to have passed
+a comparatively comfortable night.
+
+At any rate they were up early the next morning and again under weigh;
+at about one o'clock, when they halted for lunch, Petersen complained of
+cramp in his stomach and was given some hot tea. He had no appetite,
+which perhaps was as well, for we read of the bacon, which is always
+used for lunch, "We were unable to eat it, being frozen so hard that we
+could not get our teeth through the lean." They still continued their
+journey, encountering some very rough travelling, which necessitated
+severe physical labour on the part of the two officers. "The dogs were
+of little or no use in getting across these slopes, as it was impossible
+to get them to go up the cliff, and Petersen being unable to work,
+Lieutenant Rawson and I had to get the sledge along as best we could."
+Towards the end of the day we read: "Petersen began to get rather worse,
+and was shivering all over, his nose being constantly frost-bitten, and
+at times taking five or ten minutes before the circulation could be
+thoroughly restored. Lieutenant Rawson had several small frost-bites,
+and I escaped with only one."
+
+On halting for the night, directly the tent was pitched they sent
+Petersen inside with strict injunctions to shift his foot gear and get
+into his sleeping-bag, whilst they busied themselves in preparing supper
+and attending to the dogs; but when they entered the tent, they found
+"that he had turned in without shifting his foot gear, was groaning a
+good deal, and complaining of cramp in the stomach and legs."
+
+Having made him change, they gave him some tea, and then administered a
+few drops of sal volatile, which appeared to give the poor fellow a
+little ease.
+
+The next morning the wind was so high and their patient in such a weak
+state that they did not think it prudent to attempt a start. He had
+passed a very restless night, and still complained very much of cramp.
+
+Later in the day he appeared to get worse, "shaking and shivering all
+over and breathing in short gasps. His face, hands, and feet were all
+frost-bitten, the latter severely, and he had pains in his side as
+well." After restoring the circulation they rubbed him with warm
+flannels and placed one of their comforters round his stomach.
+
+In such a wretched state was the poor fellow that they agreed it would
+endanger his life if they proceeded on their journey; and that when the
+weather moderated the only course they could pursue was to return with
+all haste to their ship.
+
+As it was impossible to keep their patient warm in the tent, these two
+young officers burrowed a hole in a snow-drift, and into this cavity
+they transported the sick man, themselves, and all their tent robes,
+closing the aperture by placing over it the tent and sledge. They
+deprived themselves of their own clothing for the benefit of the
+invalid, whose frozen feet they actually placed inside their clothes in
+direct contact with their bodies, until their own heat was extracted and
+they were themselves severely frost-bitten in various parts. The poor
+fellow was now in a very low state; he could retain neither food nor
+liquid. "About 6 P.M. he was very bad; this time worse than before.
+There appeared to be no heat in him of any kind whatever, and he had
+acute pains in the stomach and back. We chafed him on the stomach,
+hands, face, and feet, and when he got better wrapped him up in
+everything warm we could lay our hands upon," namely, their own
+clothing, which they could ill afford to lose; but they entirely forgot
+their own condition in their endeavours to ameliorate that of their
+comrade. Lighting their spirit lamp and carefully closing every crevice
+by which the cold air could enter, they succeeded in raising the
+temperature of the interior to 7°; but "the atmosphere in the hut became
+somewhat thick!" This was, however, preferable to the intense cold. Let
+us follow the story out, and learn how nobly these two officers tended
+their sick and suffering companion. "We were constantly asking if he was
+warm in his feet and hands, to which he replied in the affirmative; but
+before making him comfortable" (fancy being _comfortable_ under such
+circumstances!) "for the night, we examined his feet, and found them
+both perfectly gelid and hard from the toes to the ankle, his hands
+nearly as bad. So each taking a foot we set to work to warm them with
+our hands and flannels, as each hand and flannel got cold _warming them
+about our persons_, and also lit up the spirit lamp. In about two hours
+we got his feet to, and put them in warm foot gear, cut his bag down to
+allow him more room to move in, and then wrapped him up in the spare
+coverlet. His hands we also brought round and bound them up in flannel
+wrappers, with mitts over all. Gave him some warm tea and a little rum
+and water, which he threw up. Shortly after I found him eating snow,
+which we had strictly forbidden once or twice before. In endeavouring to
+do this again during the night, he dragged his feet out of the covering;
+but only a few minutes could have elapsed before this was detected by
+Lieutenant Rawson, who, upon examining his feet, found them in much the
+same state as before. We rubbed and chafed them again for over an hour,
+and when circulation was restored wrapped him up again, and so passed
+the third night."
+
+The patience and endurance of the two officers are beyond all praise. It
+is difficult to realize the misery of that night. Wearied with the
+severe physical exertions of the two previous days, having their own
+meals to prepare and the dogs to look after, they had to pass a
+sleepless and anxious night in their endeavours to keep life in the body
+of their half-frozen comrade.
+
+On the following morning Petersen appeared to be slightly better, so
+thinking it was preferable to run the risk of taking him back as he was,
+than to pass such another night as the last, they put him on the sledge,
+and, having hurriedly eaten their breakfast, they started for the ship
+with all despatch. They had a rough journey before them of eighteen
+miles; but they knew it was a case of life and death, and they
+encouraged the dogs to their utmost speed. The dogs, being homeward
+bound, were willing enough and needed little persuasion, so that, for a
+time, they rattled along at a good pace. But actual progress could not
+have been very rapid, for we read in Egerton's report that the patient's
+"circulation was so feeble that his face and hands were constantly
+frost-bitten, entailing frequent stoppages whilst we endeavoured to
+restore the affected parts." The difficulties of the homeward journey
+may be gathered from the following extracts: "On arriving at the Black
+Cape we had to take the patient off the sledge, and while one assisted
+him round, the other kept the dogs back, for by this time they knew they
+were homeward bound, and required no small amount of trouble to hold in.
+After getting the sledge round and restoring Petersen's hands and nose
+(which were almost as bad again a few minutes after), and securing him
+on the sledge, we again set off. At the next cape the same difficulties
+were experienced, in fact rather more, for the sledge took charge down a
+'ditch,'[1] about twenty-five feet deep, turning right over three times
+in its descent, and out of which we had to drag it, and while clearing
+harness (which employed us both, one to stand in front of the dogs with
+the whip, while the other cleared the lines), the dogs made a sudden
+bolt past Lieutenant Rawson, who was in front with the whip, and dragged
+me more than a hundred yards before we could stop them. At length, after
+the usual process with Petersen (that of thawing his hands and nose,
+which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was actually necessary
+to stop), we got away, thankful that our troubles were over. The dogs
+got their harness into a dreadful entanglement in their excitement to
+get home; but we were afraid to clear them lest they should break away
+from us, or cause us any delay, as we were both naturally anxious to
+return with the utmost speed to the ship, and so relieve ourselves of
+the serious responsibility occasioned by the very precarious state in
+which our patient was lying. Upon arriving alongside at 6.30 P.M., we
+were very thankful that Petersen was able to answer us when we informed
+him he was at home."
+
+Poor fellow! it was the last home he ever reached alive, for in two
+short months his remains were carried from the ship and laid in their
+last resting-place in this world, on the summit of a low hill
+overlooking the scene of his last sledge journey! In conclusion, Egerton
+says, "I regret exceedingly that I have been compelled to return to the
+ship without having accomplished my journey to H.M.S. 'Discovery;' but I
+trust that what I have done will meet with your approval, and that the
+course I adopted may be the means of having lessened the very serious
+and distressing condition of Petersen." Gallant fellow! of course his
+doings meet not only with the approval but the admiration of all
+Englishmen who take pride in the noble and heroic deeds of their
+countrymen. The work of these two brave young officers on this occasion
+stands out conspicuously amongst the many deeds of daring and devotion
+with which the annals of Arctic adventure abound.
+
+It must be remembered that during the time they were away the sun had
+only just made its reappearance, and was therefore at a very low
+altitude, so that little benefit could be derived from its rays; and it
+only afforded sufficient light to enable the travellers to keep on the
+march for about eight or nine hours a day.[2] On the 20th of March, five
+days after the return from their calamitous journey, the same two
+officers made another and a more successful start. On this occasion they
+were accompanied by a couple of sailors, and their sledge was dragged by
+a team of seven dogs. In five days, after a severe and toilsome journey,
+rendered doubly so by the extreme cold and the heavy nature of the road
+over which they had to travel, they reached the "Discovery," conveying
+to her officers and crew the pleasing intelligence of our safety, and
+receiving in return an account of the happy winter passed by them.
+
+Poor Petersen never recovered from the effects of this journey. He
+rallied a little after he arrived on board, and was placed under the
+tender and skilful treatment of Dr. Colan, who for some time held out
+slight hopes of his recovery; but the injuries he had received were of
+too serious a nature to admit of much hope, and he gradually sank until
+he expired peacefully on the 14th of May. Perhaps it was better that it
+should be so, for the poor fellow would not only have been disfigured by
+losing portions of his nose and ears, but he would also have been a
+cripple, for the doctor had been compelled to amputate both his feet in
+order to stop the mortification from extending. These frost-bites are
+indeed very dreadful, and must always be quickly taken in hand so as to
+avoid any serious result.
+
+So cold were the frozen limbs of poor Petersen, that his companions said
+it was like touching cold steel, and produced frost-bite almost as
+rapidly as if they were really touching a piece of metal!
+
+Although this chapter is rather a mournful one, and has a very
+melancholy termination, I make no apology for having devoted it entirely
+to our first sledging expedition of the season, believing that my
+readers will feel both pride and pleasure in hearing of the noble
+conduct of my two messmates.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] By a "ditch" is meant a hollow formed between a high snow-drift
+    and a hummock or any projection. Some of these ditches were very
+    steep and precipitous.
+
+  [2] In previous expeditions parties have left their ships in March;
+    but the March of 75° N. is very different from the March of 82° N. In
+    the former position the sun has been many days longer above the
+    horizon than in 82° N.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+
+              "We are well persuaded
+  We carry not a heart with us from hence
+  That grows not in a fair consent with ours;
+  Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish
+  Success and conquest to attend on us."
+
+    _Henry V._
+
+On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of April, an unwonted bustle and
+excitement on board and around the "Alert" betokened that something
+unusual was taking place. Men in their travelling costumes might have
+been observed busily engaged in adding the last finishing touches to the
+already well-packed sledges. Officers, also in travelling attire, were
+carefully conveying delicate instruments from the ship to the row of
+sledges drawn up in "line of battle" on the floe, whilst the white
+ensign flying from the peak bore witness of some important event.
+
+The day was indeed one of memorable import, for it was the one that we
+had all, during the long dark winter, looked forward to as that on which
+our real work was to commence. It was the day on which we were to start
+forth with the object of achieving all that was possible with the means
+at our disposal, in the great and glorious work of increasing the stock
+of geographical knowledge respecting the Polar regions. No wonder,
+then, that the scene of our winter quarters presented an animated and
+unwonted appearance on that bright but intensely cold morning.
+
+The sledges, seven in number, on two of which were placed the boats to
+accompany the northern division, were drawn up in single line, one
+before the other, according to the seniority of their respective
+leaders. They were all fully equipped and provisioned, and were "manned"
+by a force of fifty-three officers and men; a chosen band, eager to
+emulate the deeds of their predecessors, and willing to risk their lives
+in bringing to a successful issue the task they had resolved to
+accomplish.
+
+A strict medical examination had been held a day or two previously, and
+the rather unnecessary question, "Do you feel yourself fit and able in
+every way to go sledging?" was put to all. It is needless to record the
+answer!
+
+On the previous day, being Sunday, Pullen preached a capital sermon,
+drawing comparisons between the undertaking in which we were about to
+engage, and the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land. The hymn
+"for those at sea" was sung and the Holy Communion celebrated, at which
+latter service there was an exceptionally good attendance, the number of
+communicants amongst the men having largely increased.
+
+From each sledge flew the bright colours of its commander's standard: a
+swallow-tailed flag bearing the armorial colours, and emblazoned with
+the crest of its owner, each charged with the red cross of St. George.
+In addition, the two boats displayed from their mast-heads Captain
+Nares's Union Jack and a white ensign. Worked by the fair hands of some
+loved and cherished one at home, these standards, as they fluttered out
+bravely before a gentle breeze, kindled our enthusiasm, whilst they
+materially added to the spirit and gaiety of the scene.
+
+The sledges were arranged in the following order:--"Marco Polo" (with a
+boat), "Challenger," "Victoria" (with a boat), "Poppie," "Bulldog,"
+"Alexandra," and "Bloodhound;" the latter was only a small sledge party
+ordered to accompany us for three or four days, then supply us with
+three days' provisions, and return to the ship to report our progress.
+
+At eleven o'clock, everything being in readiness for a start, all hands
+assembled on the floe, and prayers were read by Pullen. The hymn, "God,
+from whom all blessings flow," was then sung, after which the order was
+given to "fall in," and, amidst the hearty cheers of those few who were
+left behind, the sledging parties moved off. The captain and officers
+accompanied us for a short distance, when, wishing us Godspeed, they
+turned to go back. This was a signal for three cheers from the
+travellers, after which they settled down to their work, and the march
+was steadily commenced.
+
+The first day's march was necessarily a short one. It was to many their
+introduction to the "drag-ropes," and symptoms of fatigue were soon
+detected, caused by the energetic exertions of the inexperienced, who,
+unlike the veterans of the previous autumn, overtaxed their strength in
+their ardour to perform a good day's work.
+
+The temperature at starting was 33° below zero, and at this it remained
+steady the whole day, rendering the task of writing up our journals when
+we halted extremely unpleasant and painful.
+
+The scene of our first encampment was an animated and picturesque one.
+We had marched about six miles from the ship, and the site selected was
+at the base of a low brow, forming a connection or isthmus between a
+long projecting tongue and the mainland. Here we pitched our seven
+tents, from each of which the smoke from the cooking utensils issued,
+ascending in spiral columns until lost amidst the clouds. In our rear
+were the snow-clad hills, whilst in front was the illimitable frozen
+sea. Men hurried about in the execution of various duties incidental to
+"pitching for the night," such as the issuing of provisions by the
+several sledge-captains, the banking up with snow of the exterior of the
+tents, the re-packing of the sledges, or the careful covering up of the
+lading so as to ensure its protection from snow-drift; all of which
+duties must be sedulously carried out before rest and repose can be
+sought in the sleeping-bags. A pleasing aroma of cooking tea was mixed
+with the fragrance of stewed pemmican, and made us smack our lips in
+anticipation of the meal that was preparing.
+
+Not the least hard part of a day's work is that of camping after a
+toilsome and weary journey, especially when the temperature is low and a
+cold sleepless night anticipated; but when the weather is warm enough to
+obtain a good night's rest, the order to halt is always received with
+very great satisfaction, more especially when a good day's work has been
+accomplished, with the prospect of fair travelling on the morrow.
+
+As soon as the tents are ready for the reception of the men, they enter
+one by one, take off their "overalls" for which their duffel coats are
+substituted, change their foot gear and get into their sleeping-bags.
+This change of foot gear in the morning and evening is the whole extent
+of the toilet performed by the sledgers until their return to the ship!
+
+The following morning we were under weigh pretty early, having spent a
+cold wretched night, only too glad to be up and doing something, the
+temperature inside our tent, with all the men in their bags, being as
+low as 15° below zero. The experience gained during the autumn had a
+very salutary effect on the travellers, the apprehension even of
+frost-bite being in itself sufficient to banish all idea of sleep.
+
+The operation of dressing and undressing, although it is entirely
+limited to the clothing of the feet, is without doubt one of the most
+disagreeable duties connected with sledge travelling. Our hose and
+blanket-wrappers, although they were invariably kept _inside_ our
+sleeping-bags during the night, were frozen so hard in the morning that
+they were with the greatest difficulty folded over our feet. Sometimes
+the wrappers were tied round the knees at night-time to protect them
+from the cold, for that part of our body seemed more sensitive to the
+temperature than any other.
+
+Not the least trying part of our toilet was lacing and tying the stiffly
+frozen strings of our equally hard moccasins with fingers either aching
+from cold or devoid of all sensation. Not only was this a very painful
+operation, but it was one that sorely taxed and ruffled the equanimity
+of our tempers.
+
+The snow over which we travelled was very soft and, unfortunately for
+us, was also very deep, making the dragging with our heavily laden
+sledges most laborious, in fact so much so that we were frequently
+compelled to resort to "double banking;" that is to say, the two crews
+would be employed in first dragging on one sledge and then return to
+advance the other. This, of course, made our progress very slow. After
+the long confinement of the men during the darkness of the winter, they
+were, in spite of the careful attention that had been paid to daily
+exercise, hardly in what might be called first-rate condition, so that
+fatigue for the first few days was felt by the majority, and not wishing
+to impose too much on their zealous desire to push on, short journeys
+were in consequence performed.
+
+On the second day out, the temperature fell to 45° below zero, or 77°
+below freezing point. The cold then was so intense as to deprive us of
+sleep, the temperature _inside_ the tent being as low as -25°, the whole
+period of rest being occupied in attempting to keep the blood in
+circulation. Several frost-bites were sustained, but they were all
+attended to in time, and resulted in nothing worse than severe and very
+uncomfortable blisters.
+
+So hard were our tent robes and sleeping-bags frozen that they resembled
+sheet-iron, and care had to be taken to prevent them from coming into
+contact with the face, for an abrasion of the skin would undoubtedly
+follow!
+
+Our curry paste, a small quantity of which we used to mix with our
+pemmican to make it more palateable, looked, as the cook of the day
+observed, exactly like a piece of brass, and was equally hard. Cramp in
+the legs was complained of by many during the first few nights, but
+gradually wore off, having in all probability been induced by the severe
+and unaccustomed exercise. Thirst was also a subject of complaint, and
+this, except at meal times, it was impossible to alleviate; for
+although each man was supplied with a tin water-bottle covered with
+duffel, the water could not be prevented from freezing, in spite of the
+bottles being kept inside the waistbands of the men's trousers. The
+practice of quenching thirst by putting snow or ice into the mouth is a
+very dangerous one and was never permitted.
+
+On the fourth day out we parted with our little sledge, the
+"Bloodhound," which, having fulfilled its mission, returned to the ship,
+taking back one of our party, who appeared unable to stand the fatigues
+of sledging, and leaving one of their crew to fill his vacancy. We were
+thus able to send back intelligence of our progress so far, and to
+report the health of the men to be satisfactory, and that all were in
+capital spirits. On the 10th of April the six sledges in company arrived
+at the depôt of provisions established near Cape Joseph Henry during the
+autumn, and found it undisturbed. The remainder of that day was employed
+in bringing the provisions off to the sledges, which were left on the
+ice, and in distributing them. The next morning was thick and foggy, the
+atmosphere being rendered doubly obscure by a heavy fall of snow.
+
+  "The cold, uncomfortable daylight dawned,
+   And the white tents, topping a low ground fog,
+   Show'd like a fleet becalmed."
+
+On this day the supporting sledges "Bulldog" and "Alexandra," having
+performed the duties allotted to them, bade farewell to their companions
+and returned to their ship. The two extended parties advanced on their
+solitary missions; the northern division leaving the land and pushing
+straight out on the rugged polar pack, whilst the western party
+continued the exploration of the coast to the westward.
+
+It was a strange farewell that was taken on that cold dull day on the
+inhospitable ice-floe, amidst bristling hummocks and heaped up
+snow-drifts, as the several parties pursued their different courses, one
+returning to their Arctic home, the others to unknown difficulties, but
+to hoped-for discoveries.
+
+Brief was the parting, but sincere were the wishes for each other's
+success. Hearty British cheers resounded in that icy wilderness,
+hitherto undisturbed by the presence of mortal man, as we bade adieu to
+our fellow-travellers, the echoes from which had scarce died away before
+their forms vanished from our view in the thick driving snow that
+shrouded in obscurity the surrounding objects.
+
+It was, however, no time for reflection; for now all our energies, both
+mental and physical, had to be devoted to the furtherance of the great
+work with which we were entrusted. The men resolutely seized their
+drag-ropes, and with light and willing hearts commenced their toilsome
+advance.
+
+In order to enable my readers to follow us during the time we were
+engaged in the sledging operations, I will endeavour to explain, as
+briefly as possible, the ordinary daily routine invariably carried out
+by those so employed belonging to the "Alert."
+
+The cook for the day is an important personage, and his duties, as I
+have before related, are of a very onerous and trying description. Each
+individual composing the sledge crew has to perform this office in turn
+during twenty-four hours, and it is one that sorely taxes his patience
+and powers of endurance, especially in very cold weather. He gladly
+transfers his functions as cook to his successor, happy in the
+assurance that his "turn" will not come round for another week, unless
+sickness or any other unforeseen event should prostrate any of his
+comrades.
+
+The cook's work commences at an early hour, when, after having lighted
+his lamp and converted sufficient ice or snow into water for the morning
+meal, he reenters the tent, and walking unconcernedly on the sleeping
+forms of his companions, proceeds deliberately to brush from the top and
+sides of the tent the condensed moisture that has been accumulating
+during the night, and which falls in minute frozen particles on the
+coverlet. This operation being concluded, to the no small relief of
+those over whom he has been walking, the coverlet is removed, well
+brushed, shaken, folded up, and placed on the sledge. He then busies
+himself with the important preparations for breakfast. In about two
+hours from the time that the cook is called, the cocoa is reported
+ready, when the rest of the party are awakened.
+
+If the weather is very cold, breakfast is discussed in our bags, in
+which we all sit up; a comical-looking lot in our grey skull-caps and
+duffel coats! The biscuit bag is then laid in the centre of the tent,
+spoons are produced, and the pannikins, each containing one pint of warm
+cocoa, are handed in. The only articles that were not considered as
+common property amongst us were our spoons. These were slightly larger
+than an ordinary table-spoon, were made of horn, and supplied to each
+sledger by a beneficent Government. We generally carried them slung
+round our necks by laniards, or in our pockets.
+
+The pannikins being emptied they are returned to the cook, who has in
+the mean time been preparing the pemmican. So hard is this article
+frozen that the portions for use have to be chipped off with a chopper
+before they can be put into the stew-pan.
+
+While the cook's anxiety is momentarily increased by the fear that his
+fuel will be consumed before the repast is prepared, and his fingers are
+alternately burnt and frost-bitten in his endeavours to trim and adjust
+the lamp, prayers are read to those inside, the foot gear is changed and
+the sleeping-bags rolled up. By the time this has been done, the
+pemmican is ready, passed in, and eaten. Orders are then given to strike
+tent, pack sledge, and prepare to march.
+
+The great secret in packing a sledge properly is to have the weights as
+nearly as possible in the centre--as far from the extremes as it is
+possible to get them, so that the sledge may rise easily over obstacles.
+When all is ready, the drag-ropes are manned, and with a "one, two,
+three, haul," and a good pull altogether, the sledge is started and the
+march commenced.
+
+Care should be taken to scrape the pannikins out with a knife, before
+the refuse inside has time to freeze, otherwise it will be difficult to
+remove. Water for washing purposes, of any description, whilst sledging
+is quite out of the question. After marching for about five or six
+hours, a halt is called for lunch. This meal consists of four ounces of
+bacon, a little biscuit, and a warm pannikin of tea to each man.
+
+Although the most refreshing and enjoyable of all our meals, luncheon
+was, when there was much wind, or the weather intensely cold, a very
+trying one. The halt is of necessity long. Frequently an hour or an hour
+and a half elapses before the tea is reported ready, during which time
+the men are compelled to keep constantly on the move to avoid
+frost-bites. When there is much wind the tent is pitched; but this adds
+little to our comfort, for it is too cold to remain inside for any
+length of time. If we were not all suffering from the same cause, we
+should be disposed to laugh at the strange antics of our companions in
+their efforts to keep their feet from getting frost-bitten. One man is
+"marking time" at the double; another jumping up and down in a frantic
+manner; another is sitting down cross-legged like a Turk, or a tailor,
+and is occupied in belabouring his feet with his mittened hands, in his
+energetic endeavours to restore circulation; whilst another, unable any
+longer to endure the cold, commences furiously to kick the sledge, or a
+hummock, with both feet like one bereft of his senses. Although halted,
+little rest is enjoyed; anxiously is the kettle watched, and many are
+the tender inquiries concerning the state of the water inside. "Does it
+boil?" is a question frequently asked, and unless the cook is blessed
+with an amiable disposition, the perversity of the kettle is sufficient,
+at times, to drive him almost distracted. The old saw, "A watched pot
+never boils," is fully exemplified. At length, to the relief and delight
+of all, the announcement is made that the tea is ready, when all
+troubles are forgotten in the pleasure and enjoyment of a warm pannikin
+of tea. Sometimes little difficulties would arise in consequence of the
+haste with which it was necessary to prepare and discuss this meal.
+These, although serious at the time, served afterwards to amuse, and
+were soon forgotten. On one occasion, the water having been boiled, and
+the cook having, as he thought, carefully added the tea and sugar, which
+were as carefully stirred up, the allowance of tea was served out and
+eagerly drunk by the wearied sledgers, who were only too glad and
+thankful to receive anything warm. It was not until some time after the
+allowance had been consumed that the cook discovered he had omitted to
+put in the _tea_, and had served out simply a decoction of warm water
+and brown sugar! Sometimes the tea was made from salt-water ice, the
+cook having inadvertently mixed it before tasting the water! In such a
+case we had either to drink it, or get none at all!
+
+Our bacon was, as a rule, frozen so hard as to be like a piece of
+granite, and it was only by thawing it in our warm tea that it became
+eatable. This had the effect of converting our tea into a sort of soup!
+
+The time of halting for the night varied considerably; but it was
+generally after ten, eleven, and sometimes twelve hours' steady
+marching. The first thing to be done is to select a suitable site as
+level as possible and where the snow is not too deep, for pitching the
+tent, which should be carefully banked up outside with snow to the
+height of two or three feet. Every one assists in this work except the
+cook, who is busily engaged in the necessary preparations for the
+evening meal. As soon as the tent is ready, the men enter, change their
+foot gear, and struggle into their half-frozen bags, their toes and feet
+having previously been examined by the officer for the detection of
+frost-bites. If a frost-bite is discovered, circulation is immediately
+restored, and the injured part dressed by the application of a little
+glycerine ointment and some lint.
+
+As a rule the moccasins, hose, and blanket wrappers are so firmly frozen
+together that they are with difficulty separated, and are taken off the
+feet as _one_ article of clothing. It is amusing to witness the frantic
+exertions made by some of the men in their efforts to struggle into
+their duffel coats. They are frozen so stiff and hard that this
+operation is always an intensely aggravating one, and even when it is
+accomplished, the men are utterly helpless until the warmth from their
+bodies has partially thawed the coats and rendered them supple. They
+were, with a very great deal of truth, likened to "strait-jackets."
+
+[Illustration: GETTING READY TO "BAG."]
+
+By the time that the whole party are comfortably settled in their bags,
+supper, consisting of tea and pemmican, is ready and served; after which
+pipes are lighted, conversation ensues, and the allowance of grog is
+served out. This is undoubtedly the most delightful and happiest part of
+the day's proceedings, and I should deprecate very strongly any attempts
+to deprive the poor Arctic sledger of his small modicum of rum and
+water, provided it was always issued at the same time as ours, and
+_never_ during the fatigue and exertions of the day. The quantity is so
+small that the most fanatical theorist cannot seriously maintain that it
+can do harm. But experience proves that it tends very materially to
+cheer and invigorate the men during the short time that they can really
+call their own in the whole twenty-four hours, and it certainly imparts
+a glow which induces sleep--a very important effect of its use.
+Sometimes singing will be the order of the day, or rather evening, or
+perhaps a book will be read aloud; but whatever amusement is resorted to
+for the purpose of thoroughly enjoying the half-hour after supper,
+whether it is singing, reading, or yarning, all are cheerful, contented,
+and happy.
+
+Home is, of course, a great topic of conversation, and what each man
+intends doing on his return to England is freely discussed. We know all
+about each other, and frequently detect ourselves confiding secrets that
+we should under ordinary circumstances divulge only to our bosom
+friends. Sometimes a hot argument is maintained between two men
+belonging to different counties on the relative merits of the pigs of
+their own counties and their manner of feeding; or perhaps they will get
+into a discussion on the liberality of large landed proprietors near
+whom they may be living. For instance, one man who lived in Devonshire
+was extolling Lord Mount Edgcumbe. "Ah! he was a noble lord! he opened
+his grounds once a week for the admission of the public." But another
+man, hailing from Lancashire, answered by saying, "He didn't see that he
+was any better than any other lord; for," he said, "Lord Derby admitted
+the public into his park every day, and if it was raining he would send
+his carriage for you!" This argument, although I fear not strictly
+correct, was unanswerable, and the west countryman had to give in to the
+more liberal experiences of his friend.
+
+Before composing ourselves to sleep, the cook, having made the necessary
+preparations for the morning's meal, passes in our coverlet. This is
+always the last thing done before closing the door of the tent for the
+night.
+
+How is it possible to describe what this coverlet is like when handed
+in? Those who have never been initiated into the mysteries of Arctic
+sledge life would be unable to realize what it resembles when unpacked
+from the sledge. It is more like a piece of wood or sheet-iron than an
+article of woollen material. With the utmost difficulty it is unfolded;
+but as for spreading, that is quite out of the question: it stands up in
+the centre like a second tent, and refuses to lie flat, in spite of the
+beating with which it is assailed. It is only after it has been some
+time in this position that it gradually thaws, when it becomes a "wet
+blanket" indeed!
+
+The contents of this chapter may give some idea of the ordinary routine
+of a sledge traveller's life. The details were invariably carried out
+by the different sledge parties despatched from the "Alert." In the
+succeeding chapter we will follow the fortunes of the northern division,
+and I shall endeavour to depict briefly the difficulties it had to
+contend with, and the manner in which they were surmounted.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL.
+
+
+  "These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways,
+   Draw out our miles and make them wearisome;
+   And yet your fair discourse hath been as sugar,
+   Making the hard way sweet and delectable....
+   But I bethink me, what a weary way!"
+
+     _Richard II._
+
+The different sledge parties having branched off, as related in the
+preceding chapter, I must request my readers to follow the fortunes of
+the northern division, which was under my command.
+
+The serious obstacles that so persistently impeded our progress were
+immediately encountered. The retreating forms of our comrades, who had
+assisted us thus far, were scarcely out of sight before we were busily
+engaged in constructing a road along which to drag our sledges. These
+roads were rendered necessary in consequence of the rugged nature of the
+ice over which we had to travel, the floes being of the smallest
+dimensions as regarded superficial area, and surrounded by broad fringes
+of squeezed-up hummocks. The hummocks proved most formidable impediments
+to our advance. No sooner had we congratulated ourselves upon
+successfully accomplishing a passage through one line of these
+obstacles, than ~~ 274 another, and perhaps a more ragged and
+apparently impassable hedge, appeared in front of us. It seemed as if a
+terrible conflict had been fought between these ponderous masses of ice,
+which had so shattered and split them up as to suggest to us the idea
+that they resembled a tempestuous broken sea suddenly frozen.
+
+[Illustration: OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS ON THE SEA ICE.
+
+Made by the Northern Sledging Party under the command of Commander A. H.
+MARKHAM.]
+
+To make any advance at all, pickaxes and shovels were in constant
+requisition, and with these implements we succeeded in hewing and
+cutting a road for our sledges, by which we were able to make a
+snail-like progress. The roughness of the road was not our only
+difficulty. Around and about the hummocks the snow had drifted to such a
+depth that the men were frequently floundering in it up to their waists,
+and passages through this had to be cleared with shovels before the
+sledges could be dragged on. Occasionally the sledges would have to be
+unpacked and lightened considerably before they could be dragged through
+this deep soft snow.
+
+We, at first, attempted to console ourselves with the idea that this
+irregular and broken sea of ice was only caused by our proximity to the
+land; and that we should, as we advanced in a northerly direction, meet
+with smooth level floes, on which we should be able to travel along
+merrily, and so make up for the time expended in struggling through the
+hummocks.
+
+How delusive proved our hopes and anticipations the sequel will show!
+The belts of hummocks that separated the floes varied from twenty yards
+to half a mile in breadth, and were from fifteen to fifty feet in
+height.
+
+Road-making, as we called it, was a work of daily, I may say of
+constant, occurrence. We regarded our pickaxes with great affection, and
+they were consequently treated with the utmost tenderness and care. Any
+mishap to them would have been indeed a serious misfortune, as we should
+have nothing to supply their place, and would therefore have been in a
+predicament in which we could neither advance nor return. The anxiety
+with which they were watched may therefore be imagined.
+
+Instead of giving simply a brief _résumé_ of our sledging life, it will,
+I think, be more interesting to follow the sledge parties day by day in
+their arduous march to the northward, and their still more irksome and
+wearisome return journey. To do this, it will be as well to extract
+portions from my daily journal, avoiding repetition as much as possible,
+and commencing on the day after that on which we were left by our
+supporting sledges to prosecute our undertaking.
+
+_April 12th._--A most gratifying and unexpected change of weather
+enabled us to pass a comparatively comfortable night, the temperature
+inside our tent being as high as +16°. Hitherto it has stood at, and
+generally far below, zero. With the thermometer in the air registering a
+few degrees below zero, it is just possible to keep ourselves warm
+enough inside our tents to sleep; but with a temperature ranging from
+-35° downwards sleep is almost out of the question.
+
+In order to keep the sun as much as possible at our backs during the
+time we were on the march, we adopted the system of travelling, whilst
+on our outward journey, between noon and midnight. The cooks were, as a
+rule, called at about half-past nine in the forenoon, and the sledges
+were generally on the move about half-past eleven. This time of
+travelling was selected more with a view to the prevention of snow
+blindness than anything else.
+
+After breakfast the road-makers, six in number, were advanced for the
+purpose of constructing a road through an ugly fringe of hummocks on the
+southern side of which our camp had been pitched; the rest of the party
+being employed in striking the tents, packing and bringing on the
+sledges, one by one, as far as the road was practicable. Being a bright
+sunny day the tent robes and other gear were triced up to the boats'
+masts and yards to dry. The sun was powerful enough to extract the
+moisture from the woollen substance, which would freeze, forming a sort
+of hoar-frost that could with ease be brushed or shaken off.
+
+On these bright clear days, the snow on the surface of the floes over
+which we were journeying was so highly crystallized that it sparkled and
+glittered with the most brilliant iridescent colours. The ground upon
+which we trod appeared to be strewn with bright and lustrous gems, of
+which the most prominent were diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires.
+It was indeed a fairy-like scene; but our duties were too matter of fact
+to admit of our indulging for any time in romance or sentiment.
+
+A glance at our comrades would quickly recall us to the reality of our
+situation. Their dirty and rough-clad forms were strangely at variance
+with the scene of enchantment that might be conjured up. With faces
+scarified by the combined action of sun and frost, and black with smoke,
+with the tips of their fingers senseless from repeated frost-bites, with
+sore shoulders and aching limbs, the wearied sledgers pursued their way,
+not altogether indifferent to the beauties that surrounded them, but
+careless of the difficulties and discomforts they encountered.
+
+During the afternoon, being about three miles from the nearest land, we
+observed, to our surprise, the fresh traces on the snow of a little
+lemming! It is hard to tell what inducement this little animal could
+have had for straying so far away from the land, and consequently from
+its means of obtaining the wherewithal to support life!
+
+We passed through a dense mass of hummocks, emerging, eventually, on a
+heavy floe of "ancient lineage," whose surface was undulating, and
+adorned with veritable "ice-mountains" some twenty feet in height. These
+were generally of a rounded form and of a smooth surface, and appeared
+to be the result of long and continuous snow-drift. We camped on the
+northern edge of the floe, the men being employed in cutting a road
+through the hummocks whilst supper was preparing, in readiness for our
+start on the morrow.
+
+A journey through, and over, hummocks is the most unsatisfactory kind of
+travelling that can possibly be imagined. "Standing pulls" must be the
+order of the day, and the incessant "one, two, three, haul" is
+constantly heard. The trudging backwards and forwards to drag the
+different sledges to the front along the same road is decidedly
+monotonous; but this had no effect on the cheerfulness and general good
+spirits of the men, who were all actuated by the same zealous desire to
+do their best. The temperature all day had been delightful, ranging from
+8° to 20° below zero.
+
+_April 13th._--A dull, cloudy day, with the sun shining at intervals,
+and the temperature as low at one time as -33°. We cut a road and
+dragged the sledges through a fringe of hummocks about two hundred yards
+in breadth, then crossed a fine large floe that afforded us capital
+travelling for nearly a mile in a northerly direction, then through
+another long fringe of large and troublesome hummocks, until we were
+completely brought to a standstill by a mass of enormous fragments of
+ice, piled up in an irregular form to the height of from twenty to
+thirty feet. Through this obstacle we resolved to cut a road: in fact,
+no other alternative offered. It was a long and tedious job; but with
+such a hearty good will did the men work that we had the satisfaction of
+dragging our sledges over a very rough road and encamping for the night
+with the difficulties in our rear. Parr with pickaxe and shovel was a
+first-rate "navvy," and worked like a horse.
+
+Our routine was for one or other of us to select the best route through
+the hummocks. This being done, one, with a gang of road-makers,
+proceeded to construct the road, whilst the other, with the remainder of
+the party, dragged the sledges on one by one. Great care had to be taken
+that our boats, on the exceedingly rough road over which they were
+dragged, did not sustain any injury. Sometimes it was a very delicate
+matter, and one that required skilful handling, after the sledges had
+been hauled up to the top of the hummocks, to lower them down in safety
+on the opposite side. The ease and facility with which the ice yielded
+to the dexterous blows of the pickaxes, wielded by strong and determined
+men, was almost incredible. Apparently impenetrable masses of ice
+vanished before their efforts, and left a fairly good road by which we
+advanced.
+
+_April 14th._--Last night our sleeping-bags were frozen so hard that it
+was with great difficulty we succeeded in getting into them. Even when
+this was accomplished, the warmth we derived from them was
+inappreciable, and we felt more as if we were confined in a wooden box
+or coffin than in a woollen bag! My blanket wrappers, although I laid on
+them all night, were so stiff this morning that I had the utmost
+difficulty in bending them over my feet! Being Good Friday, our prayers
+in the morning were of longer duration than usual.
+
+[Illustration: INTERIOR OF TENT.]
+
+Crossed an old floe having a hard incrustation on its surface--not
+sufficiently strong, however, to bear the weight either of the men or
+the sledges; consequently at every step we broke through, and would
+then sink deeply into soft snow. This was not only very laborious but
+very aggravating work.
+
+[Illustration: A PACKED SLEDGE.]
+
+On portions of the road, where these patches of level soft snow
+occurred, the flat-bottomed taboggans, used in the Hudson Bay Company's
+territory, would be suitable. But the greater part of the road was over
+heavy broken-up hummocks and hard fragments of ice, lying at all kinds
+of angles; on the whole we found the eight-men high-runner sledge which
+we used, and which was originally designed by Sir Leopold McClintock,
+infinitely preferable. Long experience has conclusively proved its
+excellence. It was the kind of sledge with which the North West Passage
+was discovered and the Parry Islands explored, and with us it once more
+did most admirable service in many directions, and over the roughest
+ground imaginable.
+
+The temperature was too low to allow us to stop for the purpose of
+obtaining a meridian altitude, which we invariably get at noon. There
+was an unpleasant nipping breeze from the northward; our faces, more
+especially our noses, being "touched up" constantly by Jack Frost.
+
+The floes off Cape Joseph Henry, although actually smaller than most of
+those we have crossed, were far more heavy. In all probability they are
+reduced in size by great and continual pressure off the cape. The wind
+freshening, and the weather becoming very thick, we halted an hour
+earlier than we otherwise would have done.
+
+John Shirley, one of my sledge crew, complained of pains in his ankles
+and knees. On examination they appeared slightly swollen, and I treated
+him according to the instructions laid down for the guidance of the
+sledging officers by our doctor.
+
+Although at the time ignorant of the fact, this was the first appearance
+of that dreadful disease, scurvy, which shortly afterwards laid its
+destroying hand upon us, and reduced us to such a helpless and prostrate
+state. From this day we were deprived of the services of Shirley, who
+gradually but surely got worse, and was never again able to render the
+slightest assistance even in the most minute details of our routine.
+
+_April 15th._--A N.W. gale, with an exceedingly low temperature, and an
+impervious snow-drift, rendered travelling quite out of the question.
+
+Extreme wretchedness, I might almost say abject misery, was our lot
+to-day.
+
+We appeared to receive little benefit, in the way of warmth, from our
+tent robes, and the temperature inside our tent, with our whole party
+huddled close together, was 22° below zero! Gladly would we have pushed
+on had it been possible. A hard day's work, even amongst the most
+impenetrable hummocks, would have been infinitely preferable to our
+present forced detention and inactivity. Unable to stir outside the
+tent, on account of the blinding snow-drift that was whirling around,
+too cold to read or even to sit up in one's bag for the sake of
+conversation, tent robes and bags frozen hard--a combination of these
+evils renders the position of those who suffer from them an unenviable
+one indeed. It is a remarkable fact that we this day experienced a lower
+temperature during a gale of wind than we did during the whole winter at
+the "Alert's" winter quarters. This appears to point conclusively to the
+fact that there can be no large body of water either to the northward or
+westward of us.
+
+The thermometer invariably rose during the southerly gales experienced
+in the winter, and this was very naturally attributed to the wind
+blowing across a large expanse of open water.
+
+_April 16th._--Easter Sunday.
+
+The gale, although it had moderated, was still blowing too fiercely to
+allow us to proceed. We were therefore compelled, sorely against our
+inclination, to remain encamped. We unanimously came to the conclusion
+that this was by far the most wretched and miserable Easter Sunday that
+we had ever spent. Forty-eight hours in a gale of wind, tied up in a bag
+off the most northern known land, with a temperature 67° below freezing
+point, is certainly not the most pleasant manner that any one would
+select for passing an Easter Sunday!
+
+For forty hours I did not have the slightest feeling in my feet, and
+could not really declare that I was in possession of those useful
+members--as for sleep, under the circumstances, that was quite out of
+the question. In spite of the cold and dismal surroundings, we did not
+neglect last evening the usual Saturday night's toast, on receipt of our
+small allowance of grog. It most decidedly had the effect of cheering us
+up considerably, and for the time assisted in making us forget the
+discomfort of our position. At half-past four in the afternoon, the wind
+having subsided, it was determined to make a move. We felt that anything
+was preferable to the tedium and dreariness of our compulsory detention.
+The tents were accordingly struck, sledges packed, and the march
+renewed. Shirley, being unable to walk, was placed in his sleeping-bag,
+rolled up in the tent robes, and tied securely on one of the sledges.
+This seriously added to the weight to be dragged, whilst it also reduced
+our motive power; however, we hoped that by thus giving him complete
+rest, he would the more rapidly recover and resume his place on the
+drag-ropes.
+
+Alas! how little did we think that the fearful and wasting disease, the
+premonitory symptoms of which were now exhibited, would insidiously
+steal its way amongst us, and assailing the party one by one reduce us
+so disastrously as to bring us to the verge of destruction!
+
+We cut our way through a hedge of hummocks about one-third of a mile in
+breadth, and then on to a floe apparently of great thickness; but,
+unfortunately for us, not more than three hundred yards across. Between
+these stupendous floes we would occasionally meet with some young ice
+amongst the hummocks which, when it trended in the right direction,
+would afford us easy travelling; but these leads were never of any
+extent.
+
+The gale had accumulated the snow in deep drifts, which rendered the
+task of dragging the sledges harder than ever. Our progress was
+necessarily slow. We halted and encamped at half-past ten. The men
+appeared to be more easily fatigued after lying so long idle in their
+bags than if they had performed a hard day's work. Our camp this evening
+was pitched almost abreast of Cape Joseph Henry, though some miles off
+it.
+
+When viewed from seaward, or more correctly speaking, "iceward," this
+headland presents a bold and rugged appearance, rising nearly
+perpendicular from base to summit, to a height of about eight hundred
+feet, whence the land recedes, gradually ascending until it culminates
+in a peak about three or four hundred feet higher. It appears to be of
+limestone formation, with regular stratifications dipping to the
+southward at an angle of 6° to 10° from the horizontal. The Cape itself
+terminates in a knife-like edge from summit to base, in shape very much
+resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad. Conical Hill, situated
+immediately to the southward of Cape Joseph Henry, when observed on the
+same bearing, presents more the form of a hog's back than a cone, but
+possesses the same bold, rugged aspect. It is about the same height as
+the peak surmounting Cape Joseph Henry, and is of the same formation;
+but, unlike its neighbour, the strata dip to the southward at an angle
+of about 6° or 10° from the vertical, giving it altogether a rather
+distorted appearance. There is a great deal of similarity in the
+surrounding hills, all being more or less coniform, and of an altitude
+of from one to two thousand feet.
+
+_April 17th._--Shirley no better this morning, and to add to our
+troubles, George Porter, one of Parr's sledge crew, was also suffering
+in the same manner from swollen and puffy knee joints.
+
+Two men _hors de combat_ out of our little force diminishes our strength
+very materially, and as they have both to be carried on the sledges it
+adds seriously to the weights to be dragged. The morning was bright and
+sunny, with a temperature as high as 24° below zero, so we congratulated
+ourselves that it was now really on the turn, and that we should no
+longer encounter any more extreme cold. The men take kindly to their
+snow-goggles, and never attempt to take them off whilst on the
+march--perhaps my expatiating largely on the excruciating agony and
+acute pain inseparable from snow blindness, is in some way connected
+with their submissiveness in this respect! Alfred Pearce was, yesterday,
+rather severely frost-bitten on one of his fingers; but circulation was
+rapidly restored, and to-day, with the exception of a little soreness,
+he suffers no ill effects from it. The travelling to-day was nearly a
+repetition of what we had hitherto been encountering: large masses of
+ice thickly compacted together, squeezed up into every conceivable, but
+indescribable, shape and form to a height of about twenty-five feet; but
+these had to succumb to the strenuous exertions of Parr and his
+indefatigable road-makers.
+
+Energy and perseverance performed wonders. The men worked uncommonly
+well--my only fear was that they would overtax their strength. Poor
+fellows! they get little rest during the day, for even when we halt for
+lunch, they are compelled to be continually on the move to keep their
+blood in circulation. To sit or lie down for any length of time would be
+fatal. No wonder, then, they are fatigued at the end of the day's work.
+
+Some of the floes over which we travelled to-day were of greater
+thickness than others, and it was no unfrequent occurrence for us to
+drop a height of six or seven feet from the top of one floe to the
+surface of another; or, _vice versâ_, to have to haul the sledges up the
+same height. This was no easy work with our heavily laden sledges and
+boats. Snow commenced falling at 3 P.M., and continued all night.
+
+_April 18th._--The old story last night with our sleeping-bags! So hard
+were they frozen that it occupied us a considerable time before we could
+struggle into them. The night, however, was not so cold, and we
+succeeded in sleeping pretty comfortably. Before starting this morning
+we lightened our heavy sledge by making a redistribution of the weights
+on all three sledges. By these means we hoped to be able to get on a
+little better.
+
+We found the helmet worsted caps that were so kindly given to us by the
+Empress very warm and comfortable for sleeping in. They are much
+appreciated by the men, who call them "Eugenies," and they constantly
+refer with gratitude to her Majesty's kind and thoughtful present.
+
+The travelling to-day was excessively heavy, in consequence of the
+unevenness of the floes and the deep soft snow with which they were
+covered. After lunch we arrived at and crossed some "veritable
+palæocrystic floes"--apparently of gigantic thickness, and studded with
+numerous rounded snow hillocks; the height of some of the latter being
+as much as thirty feet above the surface of the floe. In crossing one of
+these, the "Victoria" sledge capsized, but was soon righted without
+damaging either the sledge or the boat, or injuring the invalid who was
+lashed on top, and who received only a slight shaking. As we proceeded
+northwards we opened out the land to the westward, and a large bay which
+has since been called Clements Markham Inlet. A S.E. breeze sprang up in
+the evening shortly before we halted, which, strange to say, sent the
+temperature down rapidly to -33°, and we had, in consequence, to be
+cautious about frost-bites.
+
+_April 19th._--A fine clear day. Our bags last night were rendered a
+little more habitable by having been exposed during the day to the heat
+of the sun, which was sufficiently powerful to extract the greater part
+of the moisture which had been absorbed by them. Our plan is on fine
+days to suspend as much as we possibly can from the masts and yards of
+the boats, and to spread the gear out over the sledges, so that it may
+dry as we travel along. This answers admirably and enables us to pass
+more comfortable nights.
+
+After toiling hard for three and a half hours, during which time we had
+advanced the sledges barely a quarter of a mile, I came to the
+determination to abandon our largest boat. It was heart-breaking to
+witness the men slaving in their endeavours to drag on the heavy sledge
+and boat--to see the continual standing pulls, the incessant "one, two,
+three, haul," and no result.
+
+I did not arrive at this decision until after very mature deliberation.
+My conviction was that amongst such ice as that over which we were
+travelling, should a disruption occur, our boats would be of little
+service to us, except as a means of ferrying from one floe to another.
+For this purpose I retain the smaller boat.
+
+Leaving the boat in as conspicuous a position as possible, with her mast
+stepped and yard triced up, and having obtained a round of angles in
+order to fix her position, so as to facilitate our finding her on the
+return journey, the march was resumed, every one well pleased at being
+rid of the incubus, as the large boat was always regarded. We travelled
+over deep and uneven snow ridges, and experienced great difficulty in
+getting from one floe to another, on account of the perpendicular drop.
+Before halting we got on to some young ice amongst the hummocks, along
+which we rattled gaily, actually performing a distance of about half a
+mile in something like two hours! This is good work for us. It must be
+remembered that we have to advance _three_ sledges, and to do this we
+have to walk over the same road five times!
+
+If our invalids would only show some symptoms of improvement we should
+have more hope of reaching a higher latitude; but at present they
+compensate in weight and loss of power for the abandonment of the boat.
+I regard each man carried as about 200 lbs. extra weight, and the loss
+of their services on the drag-ropes is about equal to another 200 lbs.
+weight to be added--therefore the two invalids reckon as much as 800
+lbs., exactly equivalent to the weight of the deserted boat! So long as
+they remain ill, we gain nothing upon the actual weights dragged before
+their sickness commenced. Instead of their getting better, we have the
+prospect of an increased sick list, for this evening Alfred Pearce was
+compelled to fall out from the drag-ropes, suffering from a badly
+swollen ankle, and exhibiting in fact the same symptoms as the other
+men.
+
+_April 20th._--This morning we were unable to make a start in
+consequence of the thickness of the weather. Snow was falling slightly,
+but the fog was so dense that it was impossible to see the length of the
+sledge ahead. As I had brought with me one of Dickens's works, "The Old
+Curiosity Shop," I read aloud to the men, who were much interested in
+the story.
+
+By 2 P.M., the weather having cleared slightly, we determined to push on
+and find our way through the fog and hummocks as best we could. The snow
+was very deep and the hummocks appeared to be interminable. The task of
+selecting a road was by no means easy--nothing to be seen but hummocks
+in every direction. At eight o'clock, the fog lifting a little, we
+succeeded in extricating ourselves from our difficulties, and crossing a
+large heavy floe got on to a lead of young ice which gave us good
+travelling. Although this young ice enabled us to travel quicker, and
+rendered the work of dragging easier, still I was sorry to see it, as I
+was rather apprehensive that the pack might break up earlier than we
+anticipated, and so place us in an exceedingly awkward predicament. We
+halted and camped at half-past ten, having (considering the lateness of
+our start) performed a fair day's work.
+
+_April 21st._--A keen piercing wind from the northward. Travelling much
+the same. Although the temperature was only 17° below zero, the cold was
+more intense than we had yet felt it since leaving the ship. The wind
+seemed to cut us in two, and was the cause of numerous superficial
+frost-bites. One man, Thomas Simpson, was rather severely frost-bitten
+in the big toe, which was, however, quickly attended to and brought
+round.
+
+Our greatest enemies, whilst crossing a floe of any extent, were the
+numberless cracks and fissures in the ice, radiating in all directions
+and treacherously concealed by a covering of snow. Into these we
+frequently fell, and as some of them were of great depth it seemed
+almost miraculous that we escaped without a fractured limb! These cracks
+must be produced either by enormous pressure or intense cold.
+
+_April 22nd._--The wind blew in heavy squalls last night, and continued
+fresh this morning; but as we all dreaded a longer detention in our tent
+we resolved to push on at all hazards.
+
+It was painful to witness the efforts of the poor fellows in their
+endeavours to protect their faces from the cold cutting wind as they
+plodded along, dragging the heavily laden sledges; but they seemed
+cheerful enough, and treated the numerous frost-bites that appeared on
+their cheeks as rather a good joke than anything else. The sun peeped
+out for a few moments during the afternoon; but a heavy mist hung over
+the land, entirely obscuring it from our view. The floes over which we
+travelled to-day were more level than any we had yet crossed, and
+infinitely larger; but as a set-off against this, we found the snow very
+deep, which rendered the dragging excessively laborious. Few hummocks
+adorned the edges of these floes. They appeared to have come into
+contact with each other in a most amicable manner, and then immediately
+united before any pressure could be exerted, so as to form the immense
+hedges of heaped-up masses of ice that have hitherto been our great
+bugbear. One floe crossed to-day was estimated at about a mile and
+three-quarters in length, and about six miles in circumference.
+
+_April 23rd._--Progressing but slowly. The travelling was very heavy,
+through deep soft snow, and we were delayed considerably by being
+obliged to make roads over broad belts of heavy hummocks.
+
+We camped for the night on the verge of a floe, with enormous hummocks
+squeezed up together immediately in front. The prospect of advancing was
+not cheering! A S.E. breeze, springing up in the afternoon, sent the
+temperature down suddenly to -24°. Our invalids did not appear to be
+improving, and we were rather puzzled at some of their symptoms.
+
+_April 24th._--The greater part of the day was employed in cutting a
+road through a perfect sea of hummocks. They appeared to be
+interminable. From the highest we could see nothing like a floe, nothing
+but an uneven range of massive and shapeless blocks of ice. The
+road-making was very hard and _very_ cold work, and the men had to be
+relieved pretty often with the tools.
+
+Skill is of more avail at this sort of work than brute force. A skilled
+workman will soon demolish a large hummock, on which a strong but
+inexperienced man is wasting all his energy and strength in fruitless
+blows.
+
+We had the satisfaction to-day of crossing the eighty-third parallel of
+latitude,[1] and of knowing that we were the first party of men that
+had ever reached such a high position. The wind to-day, although
+decidedly unpleasant, was of some service, for being from the southward
+we were able to make sail on our sledges and thus utilize the otherwise
+unwelcome breeze.
+
+_April 25th._--A beautiful day, but with a low temperature. A slight
+breeze from the eastward reminded us that we possessed noses. These
+latter appendages have been voted decided nuisances, and could easily be
+dispensed with whilst sledging! The travelling to-day was a slight
+improvement on our preceding day's work. Indeed at one time we were able
+to advance our two light sledges "single banked," that is with their own
+individual crews, instead of employing both crews to drag on one sledge
+at a time; but this was only for a very short distance. The snow was
+very deep and of a tenacious consistency, clinging to the sledge runners
+and thereby seriously impeding our progress. So powerful were the rays
+of the sun this afternoon that my thermometer, when exposed to them,
+rose rapidly from -17° to -3°. At 6 P.M. I observed faint parhelia
+showing prismatic colours. We were delayed towards the end of the day by
+a broad belt of hummocks, through which a road had to be cut. The large
+hummocks passed to-day, although smooth and rounded on the top and on
+one side, were precipitous on the other and were fully thirty feet high.
+Some of them appeared like isolated fragments in the centre of a floe,
+and resembled the large grounded floe-bergs in the vicinity of the
+"Alert's" winter quarters. They were undoubtedly portions of the floe
+which had been broken off and squeezed up under irresistible pressure.
+
+_April 26th._--Temperature to-day as high as -2°. For the first time,
+since we have been away, were we able thoroughly to enjoy our lunch. On
+account of the increased warmth, our bacon was more palateable, and we
+could throw our wearied forms on the soft snow and discuss our pint of
+tea without running the risk of having our toes frost-bitten. The
+sensation of possessing feet was a novel and delightful one. Several of
+the men have of late been attacked by violent bleedings of the nose; but
+this, in all probability, is due to the rise of temperature. No
+improvement in our travelling--still the same old story--hummocks and
+snow-drifts, snow-drifts and hummocks. So dense were the latter that,
+when we halted for the night, it really seemed as if we had arrived at
+"the end of all things;" for in front of us was an apparently impassable
+sea of hummocks extending north, east, and west as far as the range of
+vision. A dismal prospect, indeed! But we did not despair, and still
+hoped we might cut our way through these obstacles, and emerge upon
+floes along which we should have little difficulty in advancing.
+
+_April 27th._--A hard day's work! Road-makers incessantly employed, and
+the sledges "double banked" the whole day, progress being necessarily
+slow. Our invalids showed no signs of amendment, indeed two others
+exhibited symptoms of the same disease; for such it appears to be.
+
+Another great misfortune that happened was that both our shovels came to
+grief--the handles breaking off at the junction between the wood and
+iron. We, however, succeeded in "fishing" and thus rendering them
+serviceable. We should be in a sorry plight if any accident happened to
+our pickaxes as well as to our shovels. As an instance of the amount of
+walking we had to perform, I may mention that to-day I had, of
+necessity, to cross the same floe, on which the snow was knee-deep, no
+less than thirteen times, "and didn't I hate that blackguard floe!"
+
+_April 28th._--The temperature actually rose as high as +2°! This is the
+first day that we have registered the thermometer above zero! It is a
+decided improvement.
+
+Last night, inside my tent, the temperature was as high as 33°, and, in
+spite of a hard day's work, we were all busily employed, after supper
+was over, in some way or another. A couple were splicing lanyards in
+their drag-belts; one was tailoring; another repairing his moccasins;
+one was darning his mitts, and another patching up his stockings with an
+old blanket wrapper; whilst I was both reading aloud and dressing and
+bandaging my patients' legs. All were smoking except myself. The effect
+in a small confined tent may be imagined!
+
+Two of the men, who are not tobacco smokers, smoked what they called
+"herb" tobacco, which diffused a rather pleasing aroma, and served to
+deaden the unpleasantness of the tobacco smoke. It is composed of
+various dried aromatic herbs, and is, I believe, recommended by the
+faculty for many disorders.
+
+The travelling was as bad as ever--through heavy hummocks and deep
+snow-drifts. We had the misfortune to capsize the sledge, on which was
+one of the invalids; but a slight delay was the only inconvenience
+caused. The weather in the afternoon became very thick, making it
+extremely difficult to select a route. Everything was of one uniform
+colour: above, below, behind, and before; all was alike, and it was
+quite impossible to tell whether we were going up or down hill until a
+fall would inform us of the fact. To our great surprise, this evening,
+we came across the traces of a hare in the soft snow. They were
+apparently recent, and travelling in a southerly direction. The little
+creature was evidently very tired, as the footsteps appeared to be close
+together. Poor Pussy! it must have wandered out on the floe and lost
+itself, for we were quite seventeen miles from the nearest land. I have
+no doubt, if we had followed up the track, that we should have found the
+poor little animal lying dead or exhausted under some hummock, famished
+for want of food.
+
+_April 29th._--Small floes surrounded with high hummocks and covered
+with deep snow, were still encountered, with occasionally a short lead
+on some young ice that we sometimes met twining round the larger floes.
+It was difficult to account for the presence of so much young ice, and I
+can only suggest that, after the disruption in the summer, the pack
+remained some length of time in a quiescent state, and so allowed the
+young ice to form between the floes; for if once in motion, no ice of a
+single season's formation could withstand the tremendous pressure that
+would be exerted by these stupendous floes, but must inevitably be
+pulverized and broken up into small fragments. Our wretched cook last
+night made our tea and cooked our pemmican with the water obtained from
+salt-water ice. We all in consequence suffered from intense thirst,
+without being able to obtain anything to alleviate it.
+
+_April 30th._--After halting last night the wind freshened into a gale,
+the clouds thickened, and snow began to fall heavily, and this
+continued all day without intermission, so much so that we were unable
+to make a start. It was impossible to see the length of the sledge
+ahead, and, surrounded as we were by hummocks, it would have been folly
+to have attempted a move. We consoled ourselves by saying that the rest
+would do us good, and that the invalids more especially would benefit by
+it.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+   [1] By the Act of Parliament (58 Geo. III. cap. xx.) passed in 1818,
+     a reward of £1000 was assigned to any one who should cross the
+     latitude of 83° N. But in 1828 this Act for the encouragement of
+     Polar discovery was repealed by 9 Geo. IV. cap. lxvi.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.
+
+
+  "And here on snows, where never human foot
+   Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread
+   And leave no traces, o'er the savage sea,
+   The glassy ocean of the mountain ice;
+   We skim its rugged breakers, which put on
+   The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam
+   Frozen in a moment."
+
+     BYRON.
+
+_May 1st._--A fine sunny morning ushered in the month of May, all the
+more appreciated in consequence of the enforced idleness of the
+preceding day. The bright sun had a wonderful effect upon us all. It
+seemed to cheer and invigorate our spirits, whilst it stimulated us to
+renewed exertions in our endeavours to reach as high a northern latitude
+as possible. Our invalids, however, were very faint and weak. They
+exhibited no favourable symptoms of improvement, and were a great clog
+and drawback to our progress. With our diminished crews we found it hard
+work to drag the sledges over the rough hummocky road, and through the
+deep soft snow-drifts that were constantly met. Road-making became a
+necessary part of the daily routine. Floes of any extent were rarely
+seen, and we had to thread our way through a perfect labyrinth of
+piled-up masses of ice, with little or no prospect of its improving. It
+was a dreary and wild-looking scene: no living thing in sight but our
+own little party, no colour or object to relieve the eye; nothing but a
+chaotic and illimitable sea of ice. Sometimes a fog was observed
+gradually rolling itself towards us, like a large mantle, until we were
+completely enveloped in its dense folds; when, continuing its onward
+course, it would roll as rapidly away, leaving a bright luminous band
+stretching across the horizon in the direction whence it had come.
+
+_May 2nd._--Although we had been told that there was not the slightest
+chance of our being attacked with scurvy, still, from the utter
+prostration of our invalids, combined with other symptoms, we were
+almost inclined to believe that we were really afflicted with this dire
+and wasting disease. It was a terrible idea that forced itself upon us,
+and one that we were loath to indulge in; but we feared that the
+symptoms pointed unmistakeably to the fact that this fearful disease, so
+dreaded by the mariners of old, was gradually but surely laying its hand
+upon us, completely prostrating those it attacked and rendering them
+helpless from pain and exhaustion. Parr and myself spoke of it only when
+we were by ourselves, as we considered it of the utmost importance that
+the men should remain in ignorance as long as possible, and not even
+suspect the nature of the disease which had crippled so many of their
+number. Swollen joints and discolouration of the skin, attended with
+faintness and great weakness, were the principal symptoms. Great as were
+the natural difficulties which surrounded us, still, should our surmise
+be correct, we could not but regard this as the most formidable of all
+obstacles to our advance that could possibly be imagined. Our only hope
+was that the five men now afflicted might, through their habits or
+disposition, have been more prone to the attacks of this insidious
+disease, than the remainder of our party, who, we hoped, might escape
+scathless. We camped this evening amidst a pile of hummocks, after one
+of the hardest day's work we have yet performed. So rough was the road
+and so deep was the snow that the sledges could only be advanced by
+"standing pulls." This was disheartening, for we had all been cherishing
+the hope that as we advanced northwards we should find larger and more
+level floes and less snow; the reverse, however, was the case. Several
+times did one or other of us disappear through deep rents in the floe,
+but we always succeeded in scrambling up again unhurt.
+
+_May 3rd._--A dull, dark, foggy day rendered it extremely difficult to
+select our road, and we were occasionally compelled to unload the
+sledges before they could be dragged through the deep soft snow-drifts
+which were continually met across our route, making the work all the
+more hard and distressing. The fog persistently hung over us all day;
+but was not sufficiently dense to retard our progress altogether, though
+it materially increased our labours and augmented our difficulties.
+
+_May 4th._--Everything appeared to combine against us: weather, snow
+ice, and sickness! In spite of these evils our tents were struck and a
+start made; but after advancing for half a mile, which took us exactly
+three and a half hours to accomplish, we arrived at such a confused heap
+of hummocks that, with the dense fog prevailing and the falling snow,
+it was impossible to make any headway. To persevere would have been
+imprudent. The tents were accordingly pitched, and we consoled ourselves
+by saying that the rest would be productive of much good to our sick
+companions, for even those that had to be carried on the sledges could
+get no rest whilst being dragged and jolted and sometimes capsized over
+the roughest road imaginable. After lunch, the weather clearing a
+little, we employed ourselves in cutting a road through an amorphous
+conglomeration of ice for quite three-quarters of a mile. The pack over
+which we were travelling appeared to consist of numerous small floes,
+the largest being barely one hundred yards across at its widest
+diameter, but the majority much smaller, and each of these floes was
+surrounded by a mass of hummocks piled up and lying one on top of the
+other to the height of twenty and thirty feet: the belts of hummocks
+being from thirty to forty yards in breadth.
+
+Observing one large hummock to be very much discoloured, we found, on
+approach, that this discolouration was caused by the adhesion of mud or
+clay, a line of which extended for some distance along the edge of the
+floe, and gave one the idea that it had rubbed against, or in some
+manner had come into contact with, the shore. Mud it undoubtedly was,
+and we bottled a quantity of it for the purpose of subjecting it to
+microscopic investigation when we should return on board. This was
+conclusive evidence that a periodical, if not an annual, disruption of
+the pack occurs, and that these floes, although now at such a distance
+from the land, had at some time or another been in very close
+proximity. Moreover, this must have occurred at a recent date,
+otherwise the summer thaws and the autumn snow would have obliterated
+all such traces as those we had discovered.
+
+_May 5th._--The weather was still as thick as pea-soup! However, we were
+able to avail ourselves of the road that we had constructed yesterday,
+and moved our camp so far. To do this, although the road was fairly good
+and the distance only three-quarters of a mile, the time occupied was
+four and a half hours! The scene that surrounded our encampment was a
+dreary one indeed--a desolate, cold, and inhospitable scene: everything
+of the same uniform colour; no object to relieve the eye; no signs of
+life; nothing to break the stillness and solitude of this waste of snow
+and ice. Surely Shelley must have contemplated such a scene when he
+wrote the following lines:
+
+  "Those wastes of frozen billows that were hurled
+   By everlasting snow-storms round the Poles,
+   Where matters dared not vegetate nor live,
+   But ceaseless frost round the vast solitude
+   Bound the broad zone of stillness."
+
+It was a relief, indeed, to turn from such a scene, and rest the eye
+upon our little encampment, while listening to the cheerful voices of
+our men, as, oblivious to hardship and suffering, they sat "yarning," in
+their tents, and relating to each other their adventures in other parts
+of the globe. To our great satisfaction and comfort the temperature was
+at, or about, zero all day, and for the first time, since leaving the
+ship, we were able to eat our bacon without in the first place thawing
+it in our tea!
+
+_May 6th._--A fine, bright day; but the rest of yesterday had produced
+no beneficial results. Our invalids were gradually getting worse; even
+those who were apparently in good health complained of aching limbs, and
+exhibited some of the first symptoms of those who were already ailing.
+Four of the men had also been suffering for the last few days from snow
+blindness, though not in a severe form. A suger of lead lotion afforded
+them great relief, and acted as a cure. We had been so far extremely
+fortunate in our comparative exemption from this painful and irritating
+affliction. We must attribute our immunity from it to the constant use
+of our snow-goggles, which were never taken off until the time of
+"bagging!"
+
+In getting under weigh in the morning, and also when we are encamping,
+the sick men cause us no little delay; for they are perfectly helpless,
+and require assistance in every little detail connected with their
+dressing and undressing, being totally incapacitated from doing anything
+themselves.
+
+The travelling was very heavy. We appeared to have arrived at a perfect
+barrier of hummocks, with portions of large floes intermixed, all broken
+and squeezed up together and covered with deep snow. As far as reaching
+a high latitude was concerned, we might as well have turned back at
+once, for our advance must needs be slow; but it was not impossible that
+this sea of hummocks, with which we were contending, might be the limit
+of our rough road, and that if we could succeed in struggling through
+them for a few miles, we might emerge upon large and level floes on
+which we should be able to travel with greater ease and celerity.
+Possibly the rugged nature of the ice might be due to the junction of
+two tides, which, from the commotion produced, would create the
+obstacles that were impeding our progress. After halting for the night,
+a party of men were employed road-making whilst the tents were being
+pitched and supper preparing. All were very glad to get into their bags
+and rest after the fatigues of the day. A slight air from the S.E. sent
+the temperature down rapidly to 11° below zero. The minus quantities
+still prevailed.
+
+_May 7th._--We started this morning carrying three of our invalids; but
+before we had gone many yards it became painfully evident that the two
+others were quite unable to walk, although the gallant fellows struggled
+along manfully.
+
+Our only resource was to advance the sledges and then return with them
+empty to bring on the other disabled sufferers. We had now a third of
+our little band _hors de combat_, our strength was diminishing daily,
+and our weights on the sledges in consequence were increasing. The
+travelling appeared to be getting, if possible, worse; the hummocks were
+higher and the snow-drifts deeper. One of the former, on being measured
+by means of a lead line, was found to be, from the top of the floe to
+its summit, forty-three feet three inches.
+
+We halted earlier than usual, and, having constructed a pedestal for the
+magnetic instrument out of solid snow, obtained a series of observations
+for the inclination of the needle and for the total magnetic force.
+
+_May 8th._--We at length forced ourselves to believe that the disease
+from which our men were suffering was really scurvy. We issued to those
+who were afflicted daily allowances of lime-juice from the small stock
+that we brought away with us.
+
+But it was with the utmost difficulty that a small allowance for each
+could be thawed. The lime-juice was in two bottles. On putting one near
+the cooking apparatus to thaw, the bottle cracked and fell to pieces. At
+last I adopted the plan of placing the other bottle between my legs when
+in the sleeping-bag, and, after a long time, I succeeded in thawing a
+small quantity. But it is now known that this was of no use; for the
+state of the lime-juice used by Dr. Coppinger at Polaris Bay showed that
+the whole volume must be thawed and remixed before it can be used with
+any advantage. This can only be done in the warmer weather of June or
+July.
+
+The loss of appetite, depression of spirits, with other symptoms were,
+we thought, decidedly scorbutic, and we feared, without fresh meat and
+vegetables, that there was little chance of seeing the sick men on the
+drag-ropes again during the journey. Being a fine, bright day, the
+invalids were made to come out and bask in the sun, whilst the rest of
+the party, with pickaxes and shovels, were engaged in cutting a road
+through the hummocks. A double series of magnetic observations were
+obtained, together with sights for latitude, longitude, and variation of
+the compass. The hummocks amongst which our tents were pitched were of
+various heights and bulk, from small fragments of ice to huge piles over
+forty feet high. Some of them consisted of a number of small hummocks
+squeezed up into one large mass, whilst others were apparently the
+regular floe-bergs, and, although perhaps of greater bulk, were not
+quite so high.
+
+Between these hummocks, and consequently along the only road where we
+could drag our sledges, the snow had accumulated in drifts to a great
+depth, and this, formed into ridges by the wind, rendered the travelling
+all the more difficult. Occasionally the tops of these ridges were
+frozen hard, and it was of no uncommon occurrence to step from deep
+snow, through which we were floundering up to our waists, on to a hard,
+frozen piece, or _vice versâ_.
+
+Sometimes these ridges were only partially frozen, or covered with a
+slight crust, just hard enough _not_ to bear our weights, and this made
+it exceedingly disagreeable and laborious to travel over.
+
+_May 9th._--Another beautifully warm day, with the temperature only a
+degree or two below zero! It was impossible to remain idle on such a
+day, so we resolved to push on.
+
+Lightening two of the sledges of about half their loads, two of the sick
+men were placed on them, and these were dragged to the limit of the road
+made yesterday. Here the tent was pitched, the two invalids placed
+inside, the sledge unpacked and dragged back. In this manner we
+succeeded in advancing during the day a distance of about three-quarters
+of a mile; but so tortuous was our road, and so often had it to be
+traversed, that to accomplish this short distance we had to walk about
+seven miles, and this through very deep snow. Rawlings, Simpson, and
+Ferbrache were complaining of aching limbs, and their legs exhibited
+slight discolouration.
+
+_May 10th._--We advanced the sledges in the same manner as yesterday,
+accomplishing about the same distance; but so distressing was it to see
+the exertions of the men in their endeavours to perform a good day's
+work, and so painful was it to witness the sufferings of the sick, that
+I very reluctantly came to the conclusion that our camp this evening
+must be our most northern one. With five of my little force disabled,
+and as many more showing decided scorbutic symptoms, it would have been
+imprudent to persevere farther, however much inclination might prompt
+such a proceeding. Besides, our provisions must be taken into
+consideration, and we had only thirty days left to take us back a
+distance that occupied us forty days to advance, so that our turning
+back became an imperative necessity. We might, I think, console
+ourselves with the knowledge that the motto engraved on my flagstaff,
+and which had been presented to me by my friend and former Captain, now
+Commodore A. H. Hoskins, had been fully carried out. It was happily
+chosen, and although the lines are expressed in the first personal
+pronoun they had reference to the whole party:
+
+  "I dare do all that may become a man:
+   Who dares do more is none."
+
+We felt that the absence of any greater success could not be attributed
+either to a lack of energy or of perseverence. It was, however, a bitter
+ending to all our aspirations, for which even the knowledge of being
+homeward bound failed to compensate. In justice to my brave companions I
+must say that no men could have done more under the same circumstances.
+
+_May 11th._--Having arrived at the determination of dragging the sledges
+no farther in a northerly direction, I deemed it desirable to try what
+good two days' perfect rest would do for our invalids; and, as there
+were many useful observations to be taken in this high latitude, I
+determined to devote the two following days to obtaining them. As soon
+as breakfast was discussed, a snow pedestal was erected for the
+instrument for determining the magnetic force and inclination of the
+needle, a double series of observations being obtained. Sights were
+taken in order to fix our position both by latitude and longitude, and
+also for the variation of the compass.[1]
+
+Some of the men were employed in cutting a hole through young ice that
+existed between the hummocks in order that we might obtain deep sea
+temperatures with a Casella's thermometer, which we had brought with us
+for the purpose.
+
+In three hours this work was accomplished, the ice being only sixty-four
+inches in thickness. On attempting to get soundings, to our great
+surprise we succeeded in finding bottom in seventy-one fathoms (four
+hundred and twenty-six feet).
+
+At this depth we managed to obtain, by various contrivances that were
+lowered down, a specimen of the bottom, which was carefully bottled, in
+order to be carried to the ship, there to undergo microscopic
+examination.
+
+[Illustration: HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP.]
+
+Wishing to possess any specimens of animal life that might exist in this
+high latitude, a bread bag, filled with the scrapings of our pannikins
+and a little pemmican, was lowered to the bottom, and, having been kept
+there some hours, was hauled up, and to our great joy found to be almost
+alive with numerous small crustaceans[2] and foraminifera; specimens
+of which were, of course, collected and preserved, being the most
+northern animal life yet discovered. With our thermometer a series of
+temperatures was taken at every ten fathoms, whilst the specific gravity
+of the surface water was also obtained.
+
+Tidal action was apparent; but, with the means at our disposal, we were
+unable to observe the rise and fall of the tide, or to make any accurate
+measurement regarding it. Altogether the day was not unprofitably spent.
+
+_May 12th._--This 12th of May must always be regarded as an eventful day
+in the lives of our little party, for it was that on which we had the
+honour, and no small gratification, of planting the Union Jack on the
+most northern limit of the globe ever attained by civilized man, or, in
+fact, so far as our knowledge goes, by mortal man! In order to insure
+being within four hundred miles of the North Pole, we started
+immediately after breakfast to the northward, carrying with us the
+sextant, artificial horizon, and all our colours and banners. We were a
+party of ten,[3] two men being left behind to attend to the wants of the
+five who were sick, and who were left comfortably settled inside the
+tents.
+
+The walking was undoubtedly severe, at one moment struggling through
+deep snow-drifts, in which we floundered up to our waists, and at
+another tumbling about amongst the hummocks.
+
+Some idea may be formed of the difficulties of the road, when, after
+more than two hours' hard walking, with little or nothing to carry, we
+had barely accomplished one mile!
+
+Shortly before noon a halt was called, the artificial horizon set up,
+and the flags and sledge standards displayed. Fortunately the sun was
+favourable to us, and we were able to obtain a good altitude as it
+passed the meridian, although almost immediately afterwards dark clouds
+rolled up, snow began to fall, and the sun was lost in obscurity.
+
+We found the latitude to be 83° 20´ 26´´ N., or three hundred and
+ninety-nine miles and a half from the North Pole. The announcement of
+our position was received with three cheers, with one more for Captain
+Nares; then all sang the "Union Jack of Old England," our "Grand
+Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus," winding up, like loyal subjects, with
+"God save the Queen."
+
+No words of mine could describe the scene that surrounded us better than
+those of Coleridge in his "Ancient Mariner":
+
+  "The ice was here, the ice was there,
+   The ice was all around."
+
+For nought else but snow and ice could be seen in any direction.
+
+In spite, however, of these dreary surroundings, suggesting everything
+that was desolate and miserable, mirth, happiness, and joy seemed to
+reign paramount amongst our little party. Perhaps there was something
+in the idea of having been farther north than any other man had hitherto
+penetrated, that promoted such feelings! Whatever produced them, they
+were shared in by all. Even the sick, on our return to camp, prostrate
+and suffering as they were, participated in the general hilarity and
+rejoicing. They knew their toilsome journey had terminated, and that
+each day would bring them nearer to their ship and to those supplies
+that were necessary to save their lives.
+
+On returning to the tents, a magnum of whiskey, kindly sent by the "Dean
+of Dundee," for the express purpose of being drunk at our highest
+northern position, was broached, and for supper we had divided amongst
+the two sledge crews a hare that had been shot by Dr. Moss on the third
+day after leaving the ship. Could men in our position want more? Never
+were the bones of a hare picked so clean! No dog would have benefited
+much from the scraps remaining from our repast!
+
+Absent friends were duly toasted, and the evening was brought to a close
+with songs, in which even the invalids joined. All appeared happy,
+cheerful, and contented.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] The original from which the annexed illustration is a copy, was
+    painted by Admiral R. B. Beechey, and exhibited in the Royal Academy
+    in 1877. It is now in the possession of Mr. Clements Markham.
+
+  [2] _Anonyx nugax_, a fine adult male example, and several smaller
+    ones. The length of the largest specimen is 1½ inch. This species is
+    one of the commonest and most abundantly distributed of the northern
+    _Amphipoda_. It was discovered by Captain Phipps in 1773, and is
+    found along the shores of Arctic America, in the White Sea, on the
+    coasts of Greenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, Norway, and in the Sea of
+    Okhotsk.
+
+  [3] The names of these men are--Commander A. H. Markham, Lieutenant
+    A. A. C. Parr, Thos. Rawlings, Ed. Lawrence, John Radmore, Thos.
+    Jolliffe, Daniel Harley, Wm. Ferbrache, Wm. Maskell, and John
+    Pearson.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.
+
+
+  "Is not short payne well borne, that brings long ease,
+   And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet grace?
+   Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas,
+   Ease after warre, death after life, does greatly please."
+
+    _Faërie Queene._
+
+At three o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of May the homeward march
+was commenced, our main object, of course, being to get back to the ship
+as speedily as possible.
+
+Before starting, a couple of records, inclosed in two tin cases, were
+deposited on the floe. One was placed as near the centre of the floe as
+possible, the other was secured on the top of a hummock.
+
+On the records was stated the latitude and longitude of the position,
+together with a few words regarding the condition of the party. If these
+are ever picked up it will be very interesting and important, as
+throwing light on the drift or tide in these high latitudes.
+
+It is unnecessary to describe the incidents that occurred on each
+successive day during the return journey. Day by day did our strength
+diminish. Gradually, but surely, the men, one after the other, began to
+feel the cruel grasp of the disease, as they struggled manfully on,
+dragging their poor, helpless companions, in spite of racking pains and
+aching limbs. Although themselves attacked by the dreadful malady, the
+men who were still able to work suppressed their own sufferings in their
+endeavours to ameliorate those of their more helpless and ailing
+comrades. Unmindful of their own miserable plight, they devoted
+themselves to the tender and soothing functions of nurses with a
+thoughtful and careful tenderness that would have done credit even to
+those of the weaker sex.
+
+Often had the same road to be traversed, as the sledges were advanced
+one at a time, and most fortunate was it that we were able to adhere to
+the road constructed during our outward journey. To do so, however,
+during the thick weather which constantly prevailed, was a task of great
+difficulty and very trying to the eyes; but we knew that if by ill-luck
+we should wander away and lose it, our chances of ever seeing the ship
+again would be poor indeed! The hours selected for travelling were
+between 6 P.M. and 6 A.M. By choosing this part of the day, or rather
+night, for working, we kept the sun as much as possible at our backs,
+and slept during the warmth of the day. Towards the end of May, although
+the temperature of the outside air was below the freezing point, the sun
+was so powerful that it would raise the temperature inside our tent,
+whilst we were sleeping, to as much as 70° or 80°, which would be quite
+unbearable! Frost-bites had become a thing of the past, and were no
+longer dreaded. The temperature did not rise above the freezing point
+until the month of June.
+
+Snow fell heavily during the greater part of the return journey, and
+fogs were very prevalent. Gales of wind had to be endured, for to halt
+was out of the question--rest there was none--onward was the order of
+the day.
+
+As the disease gradually assumed the mastery over the party, so did the
+appetites decrease, and in a very alarming manner, until it was with the
+greatest difficulty that anybody could be induced to eat at all. Instead
+of each man disposing of one pound of pemmican a day, the same quantity
+sufficed for the entire party in one tent; and even this, occasionally,
+was not consumed. Nor was the subject of eating and drinking so often
+discussed. During the outward journey, beefsteaks and onions, mutton
+chops and new potatoes, and Bass's beer formed the chief topics of
+conversation. On the return journey they were scarcely alluded to.
+Hunger was never felt; but we were all assailed by an intolerable
+thirst, which could only be appeased at meal times, or after the
+temperature was sufficiently high to admit of quenching our thirst by
+putting icicles into our mouths.
+
+Aching bones and sleepless nights were the chief causes of our
+sufferings.
+
+With all these hardships it was a great comfort to be able to put on dry
+foot gear. If it was fine when we encamped, our blanket wrappers and
+hose were spread out on the tent in the sun, so that when we got up they
+were not only dry, but _not frozen_, and were, therefore, limp and
+supple!
+
+On the 17th of May we again, strange to say, crossed the track of a
+hare, being at the time about twenty-five miles from the nearest land.
+Like the track before seen, the footsteps were close together,
+indicating that the poor little creature was in a very exhausted state.
+Although the traces were very indistinct, they appeared to be going in a
+northerly direction.
+
+Though our travelling was slow, we could see a perceptible decrease in
+the distance between ourselves and the land, whenever the weather was
+fine enough for us to observe it. "Old Joe," as the men irreverently
+termed Cape Joseph Henry, loomed nearer and darker, and we all regarded
+it with anxious, longing eyes.
+
+On the 18th of May the first icicles were observed hanging from the
+edges of a few hummocks--a sure sign of the returning power of the sun.
+
+Ominous symptoms of a disruption of the pack were seen on the same day,
+and again on the following one. A crack in some ice had opened
+considerably since we last passed over it, whilst small hummocks had
+been formed by the pressure of two floes, one against the other. These
+little indications made matters assume a still more serious aspect. They
+may have been due to tidal action, but they were undoubtedly warnings to
+get off the pack as speedily as possible.
+
+On the 20th the snow crystals that fell actually melted on coming into
+contact with our clothes or any dark substance. These crystals were all
+of a beautiful stellar shape. A hummock passed, although composed,
+apparently, of one piece of ice, was of two different colours, a deep
+blue and a pale yellow. Portions of each were broken off for the purpose
+of testing their respective specific gravities, and also to carry back
+to the ship for analysis. In all probability the discolouration was
+caused by the presence of diatomaceæ. The hummocks, at about this date,
+began to assume a different appearance, the mild weather depriving them
+of their snowy covering, and causing them to lose much of their former
+resemblance to gigantic wedding cakes!
+
+The men began to have an inkling of the nature of the disease from which
+they were suffering, although we studiously avoided all mention of it.
+It went with them by the name of the "Joseph Henry mange!" Their spirits
+were wonderful, and they joked each other as they hobbled along. Their
+lameness they called the "Marco Polo limp," and declared on their return
+to England they would introduce it as the fashionable gait!
+
+Nothing appeared to subdue their courage or their zeal. Orders were
+always executed with the utmost willingness and good humour, and with as
+much alacrity as they were capable of evincing.
+
+The men having heard that tea-leaves had been recommended as a good
+_vegetable_, the contents of the tea-kettle, after lunch and supper,
+were carefully collected, and devoured with avidity; but there is little
+faith, I fear, to be placed in their efficacy for warding off or
+subduing our terrible complaint.
+
+Instead of our sledge loads appearing to diminish in weight as the
+provisions were consumed, they seemed to drag heavier, and we were at a
+loss whether to attribute this to the depth and softness of the snow
+over which we travelled, or to the increasing weakness of our party! It
+was hard work, and as much as we could do to make any progress at all.
+The men experienced great difficulty in moving their legs, the slightest
+exertion caused intense pain, and it was a piteous sight to witness
+them struggling bravely on, without uttering a murmur or complaint.
+They all knew that their only hope of safety was to get back to the ship
+as speedily as possible.
+
+The 24th of May being the Queen's birthday, all the flags and banners
+were displayed during the short time we halted for lunch, and her
+Majesty's health was drunk by her most northern and not least loyal
+subjects. On that day, amongst the entire party, we could only muster
+four and a half good and sound pairs of legs! Still even those with
+"game legs" stuck to the drag-ropes nobly, and if they were unable to
+render much assistance, still the drag-ropes acted as a support, and
+therefore enabled them to keep up.
+
+On the 25th the eighty-third parallel of latitude was recrossed.
+
+The comparatively high temperature caused the snow over which we
+journeyed to assume a "sludgy" consistency, which clung tenaciously to
+our legs and to the sledge runners, rendering the work of dragging and
+walking all the more laborious.
+
+On the 27th the condition of the party was so critical that it became
+only too painfully evident that, to insure their reaching the land
+alive, the sledges must be considerably lightened in order to admit of a
+more rapid advance. The state of the party was on that day as follows:
+five men were in a very precarious condition, utterly unable to move,
+and consequently had to be carried on the sledges; five others nearly as
+bad, but who nobly persisted in hobbling after the sledges, which they
+could just manage to accomplish, for, as the sledges had to be advanced
+one by one, it gave them plenty of time to perform the distance; whilst
+three others exhibited all the premonitory scorbutic symptoms. Thus only
+the two officers and two men[1] could be considered as effective! This
+was, it must be acknowledged, a very deplorable state of affairs.
+
+I therefore decided to abandon the remaining boat, which would
+materially lessen the load to be dragged. This decision was only arrived
+at after long and anxious consideration. I had to decide which was the
+lesser of two evils.
+
+For I well knew that should a disruption of the pack occur, and we had
+already observed ominous signs of such an event, without a boat the
+party would indeed be placed in a hopeless position; but again I knew
+that in retaining the boat, the weights to be dragged by our weakened
+crew would be so excessive as to preclude the possibility of reaching
+the shore before all the provisions would be expended, and starvation
+would be the result. Again it was of the utmost importance that haste
+should be made in order to reach the ship, and place the sick under
+proper medical treatment. The disease was extending so rapidly as to
+produce a marked change for the worse every day. The boat, therefore,
+and all superfluous weights were abandoned, and the march was again
+wearily resumed.
+
+Many a silent prayer was offered up to God to protect and watch over us,
+for we felt, indeed, that we were in dire distress, and that without His
+aid and assistance we must perish; and we prayed for strength to enable
+us to drag our poor helpless and suffering companions to a place of
+safety. A record was left in the deserted boat, containing a brief
+account of our state and condition, with the latitude and longitude
+where it was abandoned.
+
+[Illustration: SNOW BUNTING]
+
+On the following day great excitement was caused by the appearance of a
+snow bunting, which was seen fluttering about amongst the hummocks,
+uttering its sweet and pleasant chirp, which to us was the most pleasing
+music we had heard for many a long day. No wonder the sudden appearance
+amongst us of this little warbler was so interesting, for it was the
+first bird we had seen for nine long months. Even the invalids, as they
+lay on the sledges, requested that they might have their faces
+uncovered, so as both to see and hear the little friend that had flown
+off to us, as if it were a messenger to welcome our party back to life
+and friends. Long and anxiously was it watched as it winged its course
+towards the land, whither we also were slowly wending our way.
+
+On the 29th the colours were again displayed at lunch time, in
+commemoration of the first anniversary of our sailing from England, and
+allusions were made to that ever-memorable day, comparisons being drawn
+between our condition then and now! On that evening our tents were
+pitched close to the boat that we had abandoned on our outward journey,
+and which we found exactly in the same state as when we left it, with
+its mast stepped and yard hoisted, standing out like a grim sentinel
+guarding those icy wastes.
+
+On the 31st, whilst crossing some young ice between two heavy floes, one
+of the sledges broke through, and we had no little trouble in saving it
+from complete immersion, and the invalid who was on it from being
+drowned! These warnings were unmistakeable, and pointed to the necessity
+of reaching the land as quickly as possible. The falling snow and drift
+thawed upon our clothes, making us wet and extremely wretched and
+uncomfortable.
+
+On the 1st of June the temperature was some two or three degrees above
+freezing point. This had the effect of thawing the surface snow and
+converting it into a thick sludge. Our foot gear in consequence was in a
+soaking wet state. Our working force on this day was reduced to six, and
+all suffering more or less.
+
+On the 2nd the thick weather, which had so persistently clung to us,
+proved triumphant and robbed us of our road. Up to this date we had been
+able to avail ourselves of the road constructed with so much trouble and
+labour on our outward journey. On this day we wandered off it, and in
+spite of our efforts were unable to pick up the trail again. The severe
+and monotonous labour of road-making had again to be resorted to. On the
+5th, to our very great joy, we succeeded once more in pitching our camp
+on _terra firma_, after an absence from it of two months. On first
+landing our hopes were excited on observing the recent traces of a
+sledge and human footprints, and we congratulated ourselves upon soon
+obtaining that relief we all so much required; but we were doomed to
+disappointment, for on reaching the depôt of provisions established near
+Cape Joseph Henry for our use, and which was found intact, we learnt
+that a sledge party with Captain Nares had left for the ship only two
+days previously! This was a bitter blow, for we knew that something more
+than provisions was needed for the safety of the party.
+
+We learnt also that scurvy had made its appearance on board the "Alert,"
+and that poor Petersen died from the effects of his last sledge journey,
+on the 14th of May.
+
+Three hares had been kindly and thoughtfully left for us in a crevice
+amongst the hummocks by Captain Nares, and this furnished us with meals
+for a couple of days; it is needless to add, they were done ample
+justice to, not only for the sake of their goodness and the change they
+afforded, but also because we thought the fresh meat would act as a
+specific against the scurvy.
+
+The tracks of a wolf were observed near the depôt, and the animal was
+frequently heard howling in a mournful manner, but we never saw it.
+
+Obtaining a few supplies from the depôt, our march was again resumed;
+but so rapid had been the encroachments of the disease, that it was
+only too palpable that immediate succour was absolutely necessary for
+our salvation. At the rate of progress we were making, it would take us
+fully three weeks to reach the ship, although only forty miles distant;
+and who would there be left in three weeks' time? The few who were still
+strong enough to drag the sledges would barely last as many days!
+Assistance had, therefore, to be obtained. To procure it, one amongst us
+was ready and willing to set out on this lonely and solitary mission,
+with the firm reliance of being able to accomplish what he had
+undertaken, and with the knowledge that he possessed the full confidence
+of those for whose relief he was about to start on a long and hazardous
+walk. On the 7th of June Lieut. Parr started on his arduous march to the
+ship. Deep and heartfelt were the God-speeds uttered as he took his
+departure, and anxiously was his retreating form watched until it was
+gradually lost to sight amidst the interminable hummocks.
+
+  "All waste! no sign of life
+   But the track of the wolf and the bear!
+   No sound but the wild, wild wind,
+   And the snow crunching under his feet."
+
+Although the loss of one strong man, like Parr, from the party was
+seriously felt, still the knowledge that active steps had been taken to
+procure aid was sufficient to compensate for this reduction in our
+strength, and the men gallantly persevered at the drag-ropes, buoyed up
+by renewed hopes.
+
+On the day previous to that on which Parr left, an Eskimo dog, to our
+great surprise, was seen threading its way to us through the hummocks.
+It was soon recognized to be one of our dogs, named Flo; but she was so
+timid that at first nothing would induce her to approach. After a little
+time, however, we coaxed her to us, and on having some pemmican thrown
+to her she ate it ravenously. Poor thing! she was wretchedly thin and
+emaciated; she, we concluded, had been cast adrift, or made her escape
+from the last dog-sledge that visited this neighbourhood. She joined our
+tail of cripples, hobbling, like them, after us and carefully walking in
+the track of our sledges.
+
+On the 8th of June sadness and despondency prevailed amongst our little
+band. One of our number had received that summons to which all must at
+some time attend, and had been called to his long account.
+
+  "His soul to Him who gave it rose.
+   God led it to its long repose--
+   Its glorious rest."
+
+This was a terrible and unexpected blow to many who regarded themselves
+as being in a still more critical and precarious condition than was poor
+Porter. His end was calm and peaceful, and he retained his senses to
+within five minutes of the time of dissolution.
+
+Sad and mournful, indeed, was the small procession that wended its way
+slowly to the new-made grave, dug out of a frozen soil, carrying the
+lifeless remains of their comrade, covered with the Union Jack, on the
+same sledge on which he had been dragged, whilst alive, for many weeks;
+and there, with the tears trickling down their weather-beaten and
+smoke-begrimed faces, with their hearts so full as to choke all
+utterance, they laid their late fellow-sufferer in his last
+resting-place.
+
+A rude cross, improvised out of the rough materials that our own
+equipment supplied, with a brief inscription, marks the lone and dreary
+spot in that far-off icy desert where rests our comrade in his long
+sleep that knows no waking, and where probably human foot will never
+again tread.
+
+  "O World! so few the years we live,
+   Would that the life that thou dost give
+     Were life indeed!
+   Alas! thy sorrows fall so fast,
+   Our happiest hour is when at last
+     The soul is freed."
+
+Gladly, after the ceremony was concluded, was the order to renew the
+march received, every one being desirous of quitting a place so fraught
+with sad and melancholy associations; the day, as if in unison with the
+state of our own thoughts and feelings, was dull and gloomy.
+
+The late mournful event produced a despondency in our little band to
+which we had hitherto been strangers.
+
+One and all felt and knew that assistance, to be of any avail, must
+arrive speedily, and many a wistful glance was directed towards the
+south, in the faint hope of seeing that succour without which they would
+surely perish. They felt more their own weakness and helplessness, and
+dreaded a recurrence of what had recently taken place. The journey was
+silently and wearily resumed.
+
+As many of the men were unable to eat their pemmican, on account of the
+soreness of their gums, and from a certain dislike that they had lately
+taken to it, a new "dish" was tried, consisting of preserved potatoes
+mixed with bacon fat, and although in flavour, if any was perceptible,
+it rather resembled what starch might be like, it was decidedly
+acceptable as a change, and each person consumed about two-thirds of a
+pannikin.
+
+On the morning of the 9th a rainbow was seen, which, being an unusual
+sight, afforded much interest. On the same day, shortly after the march
+had been commenced, a moving object was suddenly seen amidst the
+hummocks to the southward. At first it was regarded as an optical
+illusion, for we could scarcely realize the fact that it could be
+anybody from the "Alert!" With what intense anxiety this object was
+regarded is beyond description.
+
+Gradually emerging from the hummocks, a hearty cheer put an end to the
+suspense that was almost agonizing, as a dog-sledge with three men was
+seen to be approaching. A cheer in return was attempted, but so full
+were our hearts that it resembled more a wail than a cheer.
+
+It is impossible to describe our feelings as May and Moss came up, and
+we received from them a warm and hearty welcome. We felt that we were
+saved, and a feeling of thankfulness and gratitude was uppermost in our
+minds, as we shook the hands of those who had hurried out to our relief
+the moment that Parr had conveyed to them intelligence of our distress.
+Those who a few short moments before were in the lowest depths of
+despondency, appeared now in the most exuberant spirits. Pain was
+disregarded and hardships were forgotten as numerous and varied
+questions were asked and answered.
+
+We heard with delight that they were only the vanguard of a larger
+party, headed by Captain Nares himself, that was coming out to our
+relief, and which we should probably meet on the following day. A halt
+was immediately ordered, cooking utensils lighted up, ice made into
+water, and we were soon all enjoying a good pannikin full of lime-juice,
+with the prospect of mutton for supper!
+
+After halting for the night Moss made a thorough medical inspection of
+the whole party. His report was by no means cheering: all were more or
+less affected, and some were in a very precarious condition. The
+presence, however, of a medical officer amongst us restored confidence,
+and acted as a powerful antiscorbutic!
+
+On the following day we met the larger party coming out to our
+assistance, and with their help arrived alongside the "Alert" on the
+14th of June, seventy-two days after our departure from the ship.
+
+What a contrast did that departure afford to our return!
+
+Then, on that bright but cold April morning, all were in the highest
+spirits, cheerful and enthusiastic, looking forward with confidence to a
+comparatively successful issue to their undertaking--a fine, strong, and
+resolute band.
+
+Alas! how different was the return! Out of that party of fifteen men,
+one had gone to his long home, eleven others were carried alongside the
+ship on sledges dragged by a party despatched to their relief, and only
+the remaining three were capable of walking.[2] Even they were scarcely
+able to move one leg before the other, and were, on their return, placed
+with the others under the doctor's hands. It was, indeed, a sad and
+terrible calamity with which we had been afflicted, totally unexpected
+and unparalleled in the annals of Arctic sledging experiences. On our
+arrival alongside the ship, we were, of course, most warmly welcomed by
+every soul on board; before entering Captain Nares called for three
+cheers for our party, and then offered up thanks to Almighty God for
+having preserved us through many dangers and privations, and for guiding
+us back to our ship without further loss of life.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] John Radmore, chief carpenter's mate, and William Maskell, able
+    seaman.
+
+  [2] Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.
+
+
+  "Now that the winter's gone, the earth hath lost
+   Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost
+   Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream
+   Upon the silver lake or crystal stream,
+   But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth."
+
+     CAREW.
+
+The hearty welcome we received from one and all on board the "Alert,"
+together with the indescribable pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a
+champagne supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough to
+indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely happy; the feeling being
+increased by the knowledge that our suffering companions were under the
+tender care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility
+connected with their treatment had, so far as we were concerned, ceased.
+Our late hardships and the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return
+of the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for the number of
+cots hanging up outside the ward-room, and the row of beds along the
+lower deck, each occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt
+inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a dream from which we
+had suddenly been awakened.
+
+A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong body of men it would be
+difficult to conceive. Not only had the men engaged in the extended
+party under my command been attacked with scurvy, but also those who had
+been absent from the ship only for short periods, and some, who may be
+said never to have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two or
+three days! The disease then could not be attributed to any special
+circumstance connected with sledge travelling.
+
+The seeds must have been sown during the time, nearly five months, that
+the sun was absent, and we were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable
+food is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of health, and its
+absence is the originating cause of scurvy. To this originating cause
+all Arctic Expeditions have been equally exposed. The predisposing
+causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak when the
+originating cause exists, are the long absence of the sun, entailing
+darkness, damp, intense cold, and bad ventilation. To these predisposing
+causes our expedition was exposed for a very much longer period than any
+other which sent out extended travelling parties. For this reason other
+expeditions were exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short,
+the different result was caused by the difference in latitude. As our
+winter arrangements, and our scale of diet, both on board and while
+travelling, were identical with those of former expeditions, the cause
+of the outbreak could not have had anything to do either with diet or
+winter routine. Lime-juice, though most useful in warding off for a time
+and delaying an attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other
+circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak. This is the opinion of
+all the best medical authorities; and our experience proved it to be an
+undoubted fact. Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship and
+never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice, and others were
+attacked who went away travelling at a time when daily rations of
+lime-juice formed a part of the sledge dietary.[1]
+
+In future, when an expedition winters in so high a latitude as 82° N.,
+the prevention of an outbreak of scurvy must be secured by improved
+measures for mitigating the predisposing causes.
+
+Owing to the condition of the crew of the "Alert," Captain Nares
+publicly announced, on the 16th of June, that on the return of the
+sledge parties, he would endeavour to rejoin the "Discovery," and would
+then send that vessel to England with all the invalids, and those unfit
+to remain out a second winter. The "Alert" would pass her second winter
+at Port Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would be
+despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes Sound, and the adjacent
+land. This work completed, that vessel also would return to England. The
+reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future winter quarters was
+the amount of animal life, principally reindeer, reported to abound in
+that neighbourhood, and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in
+breaking out in the following summer.
+
+This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it was certain that in
+the then state of the ship's company of the "Alert," many lives would be
+sacrificed if all the men were required to spend another winter in the
+Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching England acted as a cure upon
+those who were in the worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their
+recovery than all the medicines and careful nursing that they received
+from our painstaking and attentive doctor.
+
+In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt regarding the safety of
+the western sledge party under Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in
+which the northern division had been afflicted, it was feared that they
+also would not pass scathless.
+
+Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same extent. Their route was
+along the coast line, and it was expected that they would have been able
+to supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions, such as hares,
+geese, and perhaps musk-oxen.
+
+On the 18th of June, four days after the return of my party, May, with
+three men and the dog-sledge, dragged by our remaining six dogs, left
+the ship in order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich's party, and if
+necessary to take him relief and assistance. The succeeding days were
+anxious ones to all on board, and many were the trips taken to the
+summit of Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning sledgers.
+We could not disguise from ourselves the fact that unless they returned
+quickly they would be placed in a very critical position. In a few days
+they must be without provisions. This we knew. The temperature, too, had
+reached freezing point, and frequently stood two or three degrees above
+it, causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore making the task of
+dragging a sledge one of severe and unpleasant toil.
+
+On the 21st the sun reached its highest northern declination, and every
+day would bring us nearer to another winter; therefore we knew that to
+effect our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary to get
+our sledging parties on board as soon as possible, in order to prepare
+the ship for sea, and to commence the operations requisite for cutting
+her out of winter quarters.
+
+The snow on the hills to the northward of us was rapidly disappearing;
+but this might only be due to their southern aspect, for in our
+immediate vicinity the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the latter
+end of May the hills around the ship were perfectly bare; but the heavy
+fall of snow, experienced by us during our return journey, had again
+covered them as they were during the winter.
+
+Water began to form in little pools on the floes near the ship, and
+every sign betokened the approaching disruption of the pack. On the
+23rd, a few king ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen hovering
+about the land, and one or two specimens of the latter were shot--their
+skins swelling our natural history collection, their bodies being
+reserved for the sick.
+
+On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine Service, on ascending
+Look-out-hill, to our very great delight we observed the wanderers
+struggling through the hummocks some six or seven miles off. Hurrying
+down to communicate the good news, a relief party was speedily formed,
+and by midnight we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them all
+on board. It was the old story repeated. All were suffering from scurvy,
+and only Aldrich and two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one
+of the latter being so bad that he was under medical treatment for many
+weeks after his return on board.
+
+Their absence from the ship extended over a period of eighty-four days,
+during which they did very good service, having explored no less than
+two hundred and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them near Cape
+Joseph Henry, not far from the spot where he had before brought succour
+to my party. They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a very
+crippled condition. It is most fortunate he succeeded in reaching them
+when he did. His cheery spirit and strong help did much to assist them,
+and enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside their Arctic
+home in undiminished numbers. It was a great relief to all on board to
+know that every one had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So
+great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties had arrived,
+that the lot of those on board was hardly more enviable than that of the
+travellers!
+
+Our good ship was now converted into a regular hospital, and might
+almost be said to be in charge of the medical officers; for those who
+were not actually under treatment had to be placed at the disposal of
+the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks, or attendants of some kind.
+Perfect rest and careful nursing were the most essential requisites for
+a complete restoration to health. Spenser must have had the recovery of
+similar wayworn and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote--
+
+  "Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste
+   And bodies were refresht with dew repast."
+
+The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless attention to their
+patients, and it was to their untiring watchfulness that we owed the
+complete recovery of our sick.
+
+Much had to be done to get the ship ready for sea; but, for some time,
+only a few officers and _three_ men could be employed in any work
+connected with these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely
+with their duties to the sick. The principal work that had to be done,
+before the ice broke up round the ship, was to get on board and stow
+away all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that had been
+landed before the winter. The housing had long been taken down, and the
+upper deck had been partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once
+more admitted through the skylights and illuminators. It is a curious
+fact connected with those who were for a long period absent from their
+ship, that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached, until in
+fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour was gradual, and, although
+noticed, was never alluded to, each one imagining that his companion's
+hair was turning grey from the effects of hardship and anxiety! It was
+only after our return to the ship that those possessing beards and
+moustaches discovered the change that had occurred. The colour returned
+in the same gradual manner that it had disappeared. We all suffered a
+loss of hair from the head; but this may easily be attributed to our
+sealskin caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly worn.
+
+After the long use of moccasins, it took us some time to get accustomed
+to leather boots, which we were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy
+state of the surface of the floes and the land. With a temperature some
+degrees below freezing point, nothing is more comfortable or better
+suited for travelling over the pack than a good pair of moccasins.
+
+The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated, on the 29th of June,
+by the best dinner we could afford to put on the table. As our
+printing-press had long been dismantled, a written _menu_ was given to
+myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended sledge parties. A
+beautiful sketch of the highest position reached was drawn by Moss, the
+following being as near as possible a fac-simile:--
+
+[Illustration: "Marco Polo." Lat. 83° 20´ 26´´ N.]
+
+
+  MENU.
+
+  Potage olla Podrida.
+  Petits Pâtes d'Homards.    Fricassée de Pégouse et Sardines.
+  Rognons aux Champignons saucés dans Attrapez-en-haut.
+  Rissoles à la Tomato.
+  Mâchoire de Boeuf.       Jambon au Champagne.
+  Petits Pois.    Carottes.    Ognons.    Pommes de Terre.
+  Tourte de Pêches.
+  Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou.    Pouding en Marmelade.
+  Pains rôtis aux Anchois.
+  Fromage.    Liqueurs.    Dessert.
+  Café noir.
+
+  H.M.S. "Alert."    _29th June, 1876._
+
+
+On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the following verses
+composed by Pullen for the occasion. It is needless to add that they
+were not only appreciated, but that they found a response in every
+breast:--
+
+  Welcome home to the wished-for rest,
+  Travellers to north and travellers to west!
+  Welcome back from bristling floe,
+  Frowning cliff and quaking snow!
+  Nobly, bravely the work was done;
+  Inch by inch was the hard fight won.
+  Now the toilsome march is o'er,
+  Welcome home to our tranquil shore.
+
+  Rough and rude is the feast we bring;
+  Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.
+  Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise
+  To choke our voices and dim our eyes,
+  As we call to mind that joyous sight
+  On an April morning cold and bright,
+  When a chosen band stepped boldly forth
+  To the unknown west and the unknown north;
+  And we from our haven could only pray--
+  "God send them strength for each weary day!"
+
+  He heard our prayer; He made them strong;
+  He bore their stalwart limbs along;
+  Planted their sturdy footsteps sure;
+  Gave them courage to endure.
+  Taught them, too, for His dear sake,
+  Many a sacrifice to make:
+  By many a tender woman's deed
+  To aid a brother in his need.
+
+  And safe for ever shall He keep
+  In His gentle hand the two who sleep.
+  His love shall quench the tears that flow
+  For the buried dear ones under the snow.
+  And we who live and are strong to do,
+  His love shall keep us safely too:
+  Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,
+  And bring them back to health again.
+  And the breath of His wind shall set us free,
+  Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.
+
+Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition of the men, and
+supposing also that those of the "Discovery" were in the same state, he
+would not be justified in allowing even one ship to remain another year
+exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to the same causes that
+had led to the recent outbreak of scurvy. We were prepared for this
+announcement; for we well knew that to remain out a second winter,
+although there were many of us ready and eager to do so, would simply be
+to sacrifice many valuable lives for no object; for we could not
+possibly expect to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend
+our explorations much farther to the westward, although the whole force
+of the expedition should be confined to the one direction. In deciding
+to return to England, Captain Nares showed great moral courage, and
+exercised a sound and wise judgment, in the opinion of all his officers.
+
+On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich's party, a special
+thanksgiving was offered up to Almighty God for our safe return, and
+prayers were also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades.
+
+On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical examination being held,
+only ten men out of our fine ship's company were reported in a fit state
+for work, and some of these were convalescents! The invalids, however,
+thanks to the doctor's assiduous care, were improving slowly but surely.
+
+The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow was soft and wet in the
+valleys, small rivulets were already meandering through the ravines and
+gorges, whilst the summits of the mountains were covered with brown
+patches that the wind and thaw combined had left bare. Little tufts of
+the beautiful purple saxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which
+we walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild flowers of our own
+dear country, and creating a longing desire to behold them once more.
+Footprints of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally observed;
+but although these traces appeared fresh, they were evidently those of
+the preceding autumn, which, having been covered with snow and frozen
+hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly preserved.
+
+On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate as to shoot three
+musk-oxen within three or four miles of the ship, and on the following
+morning another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen. This was
+indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat the recovery of our sick would
+be long and tedious. The actual amount of food obtained from these
+animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from each. The dexterity
+with which the beasts were operated upon after death would have done
+credit to the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of liver and
+bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say, done full justice to--the
+only fault being an insufficiency in amount.
+
+Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration of the invalids
+to health. Shooting parties were, therefore, organized amongst the
+officers, and the whole country for a radius of many miles was well
+scoured in search of game. These shooting parties were very enjoyable,
+especially to those who, like myself, had been engaged on one of the
+prolonged sledging expeditions--the contrast being very great. No
+anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of time, and oblivious of
+everything save our own pleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt
+tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry, the night the same as
+the day, the sun at midnight being as bright as at noon, free from all
+cares, intent only on sport, the time passed in a serene and delightful
+manner, and we were truly sorry when the time came to relinquish our
+gipsying life for a more civilized one on board.
+
+On one of these shooting tours I was away from the ship, accompanied by
+a few choice spirits, for fourteen days. During that time we succeeded
+in obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent geese, which were
+a welcome addition to the fresh meat already obtained for the sick on
+board the ship. What delightful little meals we used to cook for
+ourselves, each one taking his turn, and vying with the others in his
+endeavours to make his dishes excel those of his predecessor!
+
+On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and gizzards of thirteen
+geese served up with a little bacon, these being the perquisites of the
+sportsmen. In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising that a
+return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian and New Zealand beef
+and mutton, was not hailed with delight.
+
+All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing, the tops of the
+hills were bare, and the ravines were rendered almost impassable from
+the mountain torrents that dashed down towards the sea, gaining strength
+and volume as they neared their outlets. These had to be crossed by the
+shooting parties, the water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with
+such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for change of
+clothing, we had none; but on reaching our tents we would get into our
+sleeping-bags and leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature
+at this time being about 40°. A warm supper, with a pannikin of hot tea,
+followed by a glass of grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the
+past in the enjoyment of the present.
+
+[Illustration: BRENT GOOSE AND EIDER DUCKS.]
+
+Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the interior, was
+extremely picturesque. The spot that we selected for our camp was on the
+borders of a lake that formed one of a chain extending to the south
+westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes were beautifully
+carpeted with the pretty little purple saxifrage, a _draba_, a
+_potentilla_, and other wild flowers, while the valleys were covered
+with patches of luxuriant vegetation, consisting of grasses and
+delightfully soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding country
+afforded a striking contrast to what it was but a few short weeks back,
+when still wrapped in its wintry garb.
+
+On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, we were glad to hear
+that our invalids were progressing favourably, and the convalescents
+regaining strength. It was also a source of great gratification to us to
+find a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting floe-bergs,
+and extending from Point Sheridan to as far south as we could see. This
+was a very agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations were
+at once made to release the ship from her icy prison. All stores and
+provisions were re-embarked, instruments were brought on board and
+carefully packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the screw
+lowered, and the engines reported in good working order. Strict orders
+were issued that no one was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence,
+for a longer period than four hours without express permission. Any day
+might see our release! Anxious eyes were constantly directed towards the
+pack, which was now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north and
+south as it felt their influences.
+
+A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on the summit of "Cairn
+Hill," in which was deposited a record stating briefly what had been
+accomplished by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and
+men of both ships. To this document each of the former attached his
+signature. Will this ever be disturbed by our fellow-men?
+
+Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder to blow up the ice
+between the ship and the channel of water that almost tantalized us by
+its existence, and so clear a passage by which we could effect our
+escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to 50 lbs. of powder,
+were used to accomplish this object, and many hours of hard labour were
+expended in the same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the 31st
+of July, our exertions were crowned with success, and great was the
+excitement on board when hurried orders were issued to raise steam with
+all despatch and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind had
+blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear channel of water extending
+as far as could be seen to the southward.
+
+By 7 A.M. the ship was free and afloat, and at eight o'clock the colours
+were hoisted, and we succeeded, without much difficulty, in steaming
+clear of the prison that had for eleven long months so securely held us
+in its icy fetters.
+
+Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on board the "Alert" on
+again hearing the long-silent throbbing of the engines, and knowing that
+the ship was once more in motion?
+
+Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the barren, sterile
+coast, off which we had passed so many happy days, and we could not but
+feel grateful to the kind floe-bergs which had, during that time,
+protected us so well from "ye merciless yce."
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in
+    which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles)
+    all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily
+    ration.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.
+
+
+  "Let our trusty band
+   Haste to Fatherland,
+   Let our vessel brave
+   Plough the angry wave."
+
+     THORHALL'S _Saga_.
+
+Cape Joseph Henry was lost to sight as the "Alert" rounded Cape Rawson;
+but very heavy ice off Cape Union for a time completely obstructed our
+progress.
+
+Excessive caution was necessary in handling the ship amongst these
+ponderous floes. Patience combined with perseverance are essential
+virtues inseparable to successful ice navigation, and they were
+constantly called into requisition in order to ensure a safe deliverance
+from the dangers which surrounded us.
+
+A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and the ship was moved
+from time to time in order to avoid a "nip." Frequently we would observe
+a heavy floe coming into contact with the large grounded masses of ice
+that lined the coast, forcing them over, or crumbling them into
+shapeless fragments, thus clearly illustrating our own fate should we be
+so unfortunate as to be caught between the two.
+
+The orders "up" and "down screw and rudder" were given and executed
+several times during each day. As on our outward journey, preparations
+were now made for abandoning the ship at a moment's notice. Tents,
+clothing, cooking utensils, and all necessaries for a life on shore were
+spread out on the upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the
+event of such a catastrophe.
+
+The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable loss of our home, and
+the prospect of being cast adrift at a moment's notice, was very
+remarkable. Perhaps the knowledge that our consort, the "Discovery," was
+within some forty miles of us, and therefore within easy travelling
+distance, might account for the light manner in which such a calamity
+was regarded; but it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss
+of our good ship would be a very serious, not to say uncomfortable,
+event.
+
+Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes' notice, so as to take
+advantage of every little opening that might occur in the ice, even
+though we should only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On one
+occasion the ship was purposely forced into the pack, with which it
+drifted to the southward; but on the turn of the tide, when the ice
+began to drift in the opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free
+ourselves from the bondage to which we had voluntarily subjected
+ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best not to allow a ship to get
+beset, even when the drift of the pack is favourable.
+
+As we proceeded south, although our progress was slow, the change in the
+appearance and massiveness of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we
+would meet small specimens of our palæocrystic friends, over which we
+had travelled during the preceding spring, but, as a rule, the ice was
+of a much lighter description. Still the floes were far heavier than
+those met with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised.
+
+During the time the ship was detained, waiting for the ice to open to
+allow her to proceed, our sportsmen were not idle, landing at all hours
+of the day and night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So
+successful were they in their forays that the sick were supplied with a
+fresh meat meal daily,--geese, ducks, and hares forming the principal
+part of their "bags." The slaughter amongst the former was
+tremendous--entire flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds falling
+victims to the prowess of not more than two guns, and within the short
+space perhaps of half an hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of
+moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring aim of our
+marksmen.
+
+In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we succeeded in raising
+on board, we were able to obtain small quantities of sorrel, which the
+convalescents were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and sides of
+the hills, often returning with sufficient to enable a limited allowance
+to be served out periodically. Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore
+themselves to _browse_ on this excellent antiscorbutic.
+
+On the morning of the 5th of August, being within twenty miles of the
+"Discovery," Egerton, accompanied by one of the men, was sent to give
+them information of our position. Our own ship was then, and had been
+for the past forty-eight hours, effectually jammed by the ice and unable
+to move. In the mean time we on board the "Alert" were endeavouring to
+get our vessel clean, and into something like order and ship-shape. On
+the following morning we sustained a slight "nip," caused by the ice
+setting rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly wrenched before
+the rudder could be unshipped, and the iron tiller was bent and
+crippled. We only succeeded in easing the pressure by exploding some
+charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson, with two of the men
+belonging to the "Discovery," walked on board. We were, of course,
+delighted to see them and to hear news of our consort.
+
+From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost his way, and did not
+arrive on board their ship until after he had been wandering about for
+eighteen hours! The news from the "Discovery" was what we feared.
+Notwithstanding the large amount of musk-ox flesh procured by them
+during the autumn and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew in
+almost the same virulent manner as it had ours. The return journeys of
+some of their sledge parties were simply a repetition of our own.
+Beaumont's division--the one exploring the north-western coast of
+Greenland--had suffered very severely, and we heard with extreme regret
+that two of his small party had succumbed to this terrible disease.
+
+The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet
+returned to the "Discovery," having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit
+their healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our spring campaign,
+on which we had all set out so full of enthusiasm and hope. It had the
+effect, however, of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to
+proceed to England. With such broken-down crews it would have been folly
+indeed to have risked the rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there
+was really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont having done his work so
+well that it would have been impossible for us to have extended any
+exploration in that quarter. The "Discovery" had been afloat for some
+time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea on the arrival of
+Beaumont and his party. Their absence caused us great anxiety, as the
+pack, being in motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and
+consequently where they would have to cross, made us fully alive to the
+risks and dangers they would encounter whilst crossing it. Still we
+hoped to hear of their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor
+alongside our consort in Discovery Bay.
+
+The most important news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene
+period had been discovered within about three miles of their winter
+quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large
+specimens had been carried to the ship--the result of experiments made
+being that it was reported, for steaming purposes, equal to the best
+Welsh coal.
+
+Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape, our naturalist made
+an interesting discovery within two hundred yards of the ship. On the
+beach, about twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some wood
+which, on examination, proved to be portions of sledge runners and
+cross-pieces; also a snow scraper, made from the tusk of a narwhal or
+walrus, and a large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock hollowed
+out.[1] These relics are the most northern traces of Eskimos yet found.
+Their position would lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived
+so far north along the shores on the western side of the channel, and
+from thence crossed over to the opposite Greenland coast; the cliffs to
+the northward being very steep, and although not actually impassable,
+great difficulty would be experienced in travelling along their base.
+This, and the absence of animal life, would readily account for their
+desire to leave such an inhospitable and sterile land.
+
+On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected to some very severe
+squeezes. On the latter day a large floe-berg pressed violently against
+the vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern bodily out of the
+water to a height of about five feet. The noise of the cracking of the
+beams and the groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard will
+never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling of the pitch in the
+deck seams sounded like a shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately
+for us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and therefore
+grounded before it had time to cause the destruction of the ship. It was
+a grand sight to witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs--great
+masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness--turned completely
+over and swept away by the pack in its irresistible career.
+
+[Illustration: REDUCING A FLOE-BERG.]
+
+We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in watching spectacles of
+such magnificence. Our position was by no means pleasant: any pressure
+upon the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must inevitably
+crush her; and the prospect of another winter in the ice began to dawn
+upon us. There was apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the
+preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when once the floe-bergs
+grounded along the coast, they remained immoveable during the whole
+winter, and here were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had
+grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance was to reduce the huge
+mass of ice by which we were imprisoned, so as to lighten it
+sufficiently to float and drift away at high water. It was a bold idea;
+but it was no sooner resolved on than every available working man in the
+ship, irrespective of rank or station, was busily employed with axe,
+pick, or chisel in demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so
+energetically was the work carried out, that the judicious explosion of
+a heavy charge of powder immediately under the berg had the effect of
+floating it away at high water, and the ship was released.
+
+The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good progress, and on the
+following evening had the very great satisfaction of anchoring alongside
+the "Discovery," after having been separated from her for nearly twelve
+months. An interchange of visitors immediately took place. Local news,
+for want of more important intelligence, was fully and freely discussed,
+and the routine of the winter and the doings of the sledge parties
+formed topics of interesting conversation. The prolonged absence of
+Beaumont and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits, for we could
+not hide from ourselves the fact that their journey across the strait
+must be a hazardous one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding
+their safety that he determined upon going in search of them, even over
+to Polaris Bay. Accordingly, on Sunday morning, the 13th of August,
+having transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the "Discovery,"
+and having our own ship's company supplemented by six men from our
+consort, we again made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at the
+entrance of the harbour, through which it was quite impossible to
+penetrate. On the following day, to our great delight, we observed a
+tent pitched on the ice about three miles to the southward of the ship.
+A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours we had the extreme
+pleasure and satisfaction of welcoming Beaumont and his party on board,
+none the worse for what they had recently gone through, and almost
+indignant at all offers of assistance that were made to them. On account
+of the drifting of the pack over which they had been travelling, their
+work, during the last three or four days, had been excessively severe.
+On occasions they were compelled to continue the march for thirty-two
+and twenty-two consecutive hours without resting.
+
+As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable, we were unable to
+advance, although more than one unsuccessful attempt was made to push
+on. On several occasions the dredge was hauled and with good and
+interesting results. The coal seam was also visited by different parties
+of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a
+ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. We
+were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface of the ground, or
+its thickness.
+
+[Illustration: H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE.]
+
+We were also very fortunate in finding a large number of vegetable
+fossils in the surrounding limestone, some of the leaf impressions being
+very clear and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent cave,
+formed by the two sides of the gorge and covered with a roof of frozen
+snow. This roof is apparently permanent, as when we visited the cave it
+was precisely in the same condition as when it was first discovered
+twelve months before! The cave is very large, capable of
+accommodating easily sixty or seventy men.
+
+During these excursions several butterflies were caught and brought on
+board as specimens, as also some flies, gnats, and other _diptera_. Many
+hares were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who had been
+working like a horse in order to bring his patients round.
+
+The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island and the mainland,
+through which we passed in one of our vain attempts to get south, was
+very striking: bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand
+feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines and gorges having
+almost precipitous sides and terminating in bays and little harbours.
+
+On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging, at the expense,
+however, of our rudder head, we succeeded in forcing a passage through
+the ice in Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water extending
+along the coast to the southward, which we fondly hoped would eventually
+lead us into open water.[2] But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed
+uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled to seek refuge
+inside a land-locked and apparently well-protected and secure harbour.
+How deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had elapsed after
+entering this sheltered retreat, before the "Alert" was severely nipped
+by a heavy floe and forced on shore.
+
+For many hours the ship remained in a very critical position, as the
+tide receding left her completely high and dry, and listed over at an
+angle of 25°.
+
+So steep was the bank on which we had been forced, that at low water we
+were able to walk, "dry shod," from the stem to the main chains, whilst
+aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within a short distance of
+the taff-rail. A good sensational photograph and some sketches were made
+of the ship in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were, of
+course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel. The fore part was
+entirely cleared, and the chain cables brought aft. A bower anchor was
+laid out astern in order to haul the ship off to.
+
+The manner in which this latter work was performed was both novel and
+ingenious. A small but heavy piece of ice was secured and brought
+alongside the ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft. It was
+then towed by boats to the position decided upon, when the raft was
+destroyed by exploding a charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it,
+the anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom.
+
+With such good will did all work, that we had the joy and satisfaction
+of seeing our good ship afloat, and ready to proceed, in about fifteen
+hours from the time of the accident taking place. The bay, which was the
+scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings Bay, after one of our men, who
+was my sledge captain in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the
+horn of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where the ship was
+aground, proving that the neighbourhood is occasionally visited by these
+animals.
+
+From this time, until the 9th of September, we were engaged in a
+never-ceasing struggle with the ice, frequently detained for many hours,
+and rarely advancing more than a few hundred yards during the day. The
+fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantly of the near approach of
+winter, whilst the land had again assumed its wintry covering of snow.
+On the 22nd of August candles had to be used below at midnight for
+reading or writing. The young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and
+cementing the broken fragments of floes together. This caused such an
+impediment to our advance, although the pack was what is termed loose,
+that we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish all attempts
+at penetrating farther, and to secure the ships until a more favourable
+opportunity should occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly
+small, and had to be very carefully economized. Without the means of
+steaming, our chance of escape would, indeed, have been small.
+
+On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;[3] on the 27th,[4] so slow was our
+progress, that we only just succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where
+we were detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature had fallen
+to 19°. Last year we were frozen up on the 3rd of September, and here
+were we on the same date with as low a temperature and many miles to
+accomplish before we could actually be clear of the ice!
+
+Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything appeared gloomy and
+inhospitable. As there was now a prospect of our being forcibly detained
+for another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions were
+getting low, on passing the large depôt established in Dobbin Bay on our
+way up the previous year, we landed and brought off all the tea, sugar,
+and chocolate, and such other articles as we were likely to require.
+
+Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground seal (_Phoca barbata_)
+was shot by Hans, of the "Discovery," on which was found a partially
+healed wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon with an
+ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction, was discovered imbedded
+in its blubber. It would have been very interesting if we could have
+traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the tribe to which it had
+belonged and the locality where the wound was inflicted.
+
+One morning, when some little distance from the land, a small fox, of a
+mottled colour, wandered off to the ship, being attracted towards us
+either by hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always on the
+_alert_, soon spied the little animal cruising about amongst the
+hummocks and shot it. The skin was preserved with the collection of
+natural history specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner and
+found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks, and Allman Bay, an inlet
+which was named after the distinguished President of the Linnæan
+Society, we continued to push the ships in the direction of open water
+to the south, which we at length reached.
+
+It was with no small amount of thankfulness that on the 9th of September
+we emerged from the cold, grim clutches that seemed only too ready to
+detain us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King, and that we
+felt our ship rise and fall once more on the bosom of an undoubted ocean
+swell. It was, indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see nothing
+but blue water, and, with the exception of a few straggling bergs, not
+a single speck of ice in sight. This broad sheet of water had for some
+time been known to us, having been observed from the summits of various
+hills that we had ascended, and all our energies of late had been
+concentrated into reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance and
+patience ultimately proved triumphant.
+
+[Illustration: ALLMAN BAY.]
+
+On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with a thin layer of
+young ice, which offered a great deal of hindrance, although it had not
+the effect of checking us altogether. Our course through this young ice
+could be distinctly traced for a long distance astern, by a broad lane
+of water resembling the Suez Canal. At 6 P.M. we passed Cape Sabine, and
+distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island apparently
+untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella, towards which we steered.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] I have already referred to this discovery in my remarks on the
+    migrations of the Eskimos, at p. 69.
+
+  [2] At this time the "Pandora" was cruising in the entrance of Smith
+    Sound, with an impenetrable barrier of ice blocking her way to the
+    northward.
+
+  [3] On this day the "Pandora" succeeded in landing a party on Cape
+    Isabella for the second time, searching for a record.
+
+  [4] On the 27th the "Pandora" was driven out of Smith Sound by a
+    gale.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+HOMEWARD BOUND.
+
+
+  "Still in the yawning trough the vessel reels,
+   Ingulfed beneath two fluctuating hills;
+   On either side they rise, tremendous scene,
+   A long dark melancholy vale between.
+   The balanced ship, now forward, now behind,
+   Still felt the impression of the waves and wind,
+   And to the right and left by turns inclined."
+
+     FALCONER.
+
+  "_Montano._--What from the cape can you discern at sea?
+
+   _1st Gent._--Nothing at all: it is a high-wrought flood;
+              I cannot, 'twixt the heaven and the main,
+              Descry a sail.
+
+    _Montano._--Let's to the seaside, ho!
+
+   _3rd Gent._--Come, let's do so;
+              For every moment is expectancy
+              Of more arrivance. (_Within._) A sail! A sail!
+
+   _4th Gent._--The town is empty; on the brow of the sea
+              Stand ranks of people, and they cry--a sail!"
+
+     _Othello._
+
+Shortly before midnight, on the 9th of September, Cape Isabella was
+reached and the ships were clear of Smith Sound. As, on our outward
+journey, to me had been allotted the duty of erecting a cairn on that
+prominent headland, and establishing a post office, so, on our return
+journey, was I assigned the duty of visiting the place in order to
+ascertain if letters had been deposited there during the period of our
+absence by any enterprising friend. On reaching the lower cairn, to my
+great surprise--for we hardly expected that any one would have visited
+the place since our departure the previous year--I found an additional
+cask had been placed alongside the one that I had established there.
+This was quickly opened, and found to contain a small mail for each
+ship.
+
+Hurriedly leaving a record notifying our visit, we eagerly seized our
+treasures and made the best of our way to the boat. Great was the
+excitement when the news spread that a mail from England was actually on
+board, and we were soon deep in the enjoyment of perusing late letters
+from home, a pleasure to which we had so long been strangers.
+
+Many were the heartfelt expressions of gratitude that rose to the lips
+of those lucky recipients of home news towards that gallant officer and
+friend who had so perseveringly and so generously, in spite of many
+dangers and difficulties, succeeded in depositing their letters so far
+north. The bulk of our mail we imagined had been left either at Disco or
+Upernivik. Had we examined the cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, we
+should there have learnt that the same kind and disinterested friend had
+taken them to Littleton Island, and there safely deposited them. Being
+ignorant of this fact, and the weather being against our proceeding
+thither, a course was shaped to the southward; those who were under the
+impression that our English letters were really on that island being
+consoled by the fact that we were steering homewards, and that in a
+short time letters would be no longer necessary or of any value.
+
+Wars, and rumours of wars, were prevalent, for our latest news came from
+England at the time when all Europe was disturbed and unsettled by the
+complexion of affairs in the East.
+
+This made us all the more anxious to get home quickly; but alas!
+everything was against us. Tempestuous weather, with the wind _always_
+contrary, was our introduction to our own element, and, as our coal was
+running very short, we were obliged to put the ships under canvas and
+thrash them at it. Icebergs were innumerable, and, as the nights were
+increasing in length and the darkness in density, they were anything but
+pleasant neighbours.
+
+On the 12th of September it was blowing so hard and the weather was so
+thick, that it was determined to seek an anchorage under the lee of the
+land in Whale Sound, and there wait until the weather moderated. With
+this object the ships were worked up under fore and aft sails and steam,
+eventually anchoring in a small bay (Bardin Bay) in close proximity to
+the Tyndall Glacier. As we came in we observed an Eskimo settlement on
+the eastern side of the bay, and several natives were seen running along
+the land towards us; but as the glacier intervened they were unable to
+communicate, and the weather was too bad to allow us to send a boat to
+them. This was much to be deplored, as, irrespective of the fact that
+these people were the first human beings that we had seen for many a
+long month, it was desirable that we should propitiate them in favour of
+white men, and for this purpose we had many little articles of infinite
+value to them, such as knives, needles, thread, scissors, etc., besides
+provisions, ready for their acceptance.
+
+These natives were of the same tribe as those who were so kind to Kane
+and Hayes, and also to the "Polaris," so it would have been a good
+action, independently of all other reasons, could we have befriended
+them.
+
+We had not been at anchor, however, more than five hours before a change
+of wind, accompanied by heavy squalls which came over the hills fast and
+furious, obliged us to get under weigh, and again put to sea, although
+the weather was as thick and the wind as strong as ever--added to which
+hail and snow showers were frequent: altogether a very unpleasant and
+miserable night was spent, for it was nearly midnight when we were
+forced to fly from our harbour.
+
+On the 16th we were beating about off the entrance to Lancaster Sound,
+near Cape Byam Martin. This was all familiar ground to me, and brought
+back to my recollection scenes on board the old whaler, "Arctic," that
+had occurred in the same locality three years before. We made many tacks
+in our endeavours to weather Cape Walter Bathurst, but, for a long time,
+without success, for the wind invariably headed us on each tack.
+
+On the 20th several eider-ducks, some turnstones, rotges, and
+snow-buntings were seen, but all going in a southerly direction,
+apparently anxious to seek warmer climes before the winter should have
+claimed both the sea and land. How we envied these birds their means of
+locomotion! for foul and strong winds causing slow progress, were
+beginning to be very irksome. Our old friends the "mollies" (fulmar
+petrels), that we had not seen for so long, again joined us, and might
+be seen continually darting down and picking up in their voracious maws
+all scraps that had been thrown overboard.
+
+[Illustration: FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES").]
+
+The persistent manner in which the bad weather clung to us was quite
+marvellous. Hardly a fine day had been enjoyed since we emerged from the
+ice. The words of Falconer would have been applicable to us, and might
+have been repeated with truth every morning:
+
+  "A lowering squall obscures the southern sky,
+   Before whose sweeping breath the waters fly.
+
+        *     *     *     *     *
+
+   It comes resistless! and with foaming sweep,
+   Upturns the whitening surface of the deep."
+
+At length, after being buffeted about for many days, the high land of
+Disco was sighted on the 25th of September; and on the same day we came
+to an anchor in the little harbour of Godhavn, and congratulated
+ourselves once more upon our return to civilization.
+
+The day, as if to make up for our previous bad weather, was a bright
+sunny one, and perfectly still and calm. This was all the more
+appreciated after the turbulent seas which had lately almost driven us
+distracted. The scenery coming in was very beautiful. On one side were
+the high cliffs of Disco, intersected here and there with deep fiords
+and bays, whilst on the other lay the perfectly quiescent sea, studded
+with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Occasionally the surface of the
+water would be ruffled and disturbed by the appearance of a seal's head,
+as the inquisitive little animal would pop it up to gaze curiously at us
+as we steamed slowly by; or else a whale, as he swam lazily along, would
+give a flick with his huge tail, or spout a jet of water in the air,
+which might be taken either as a welcome back to more genial climes, or
+an angry remonstrance that a monster larger than himself should dare to
+live in his own particular domain. Birds flew around and alighted near
+us. One, a ger-falcon, was so bold as to venture to perch upon our
+fore-royal truck; but, I am ashamed to relate, was fired at for its
+misplaced confidence. It escaped, however, unhurt. Everything was bright
+and joyous, and all were happy and elated. Our joy was slightly marred
+on arrival to find that our mails had really been taken on and left at
+Littleton Island; but a mail, with letters of a later date than those
+brought out by the "Pandora," which had been got together and made up
+for us at Copenhagen by my cousin, had just arrived in the Danish brig
+"Tjalfe."
+
+Of course it could not be expected that, during the period of our
+absence from England, no sad changes should have taken place, and the
+sorrowful faces of more than one among us testified to the fact that
+some dear and loved ones would be seen no more in this world.
+
+From Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, we learnt that the "Pandora" had
+only taken her departure for England four days previously, having been
+unsuccessful in her endeavours to reach Cape Sabine. The attempt had
+only been relinquished by her commander when the lateness of the season
+compelled him to beat a retreat. A supply of beer, sent from England by
+my cousin, was found awaiting our arrival, and was most acceptable. A
+cask of beer had also been kindly left for our use by Allen Young, so
+that we were enabled to supply "all hands" with a glass of beer twice a
+week during the passage to England. Through the kindness of the Danish
+authorities, we were able to obtain thirty tons of coal, with a promise
+of thirty more if we chose to go to Egedesminde, another settlement
+about sixty miles to the southward. This was an offer too valuable to be
+disregarded, and was accepted by Captain Nares.
+
+Having shifted our rudder, which, to use an American phrase, was "pretty
+considerably chawed up," from its treatment by the ice, and made good a
+few other defects, we took our departure from Godhavn on the morning of
+the 28th, Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, coming on board to accompany
+us round to Egedesminde. As we steamed out of harbour the little
+three-gun battery fired a farewell salute, the ensigns on shore, and on
+board, were dipped, and the ladies (two in number), from their
+verandahs, waved with their pocket handkerchiefs a last adieu. It was a
+fine clear morning as we left; but a thick fog soon overtook us, in
+which we remained enveloped for the remainder of the day, and it was not
+until the following morning that we reached our destination.
+
+Our way took us through a perfect labyrinth of small islands, some of
+the narrow channels through which we had to pass being almost blocked by
+large grounded masses of ice, remnants of icebergs. The "Alert" and
+"Discovery" being the first steamers that had ever visited Egedesminde,
+the natives turned out in force to witness our arrival. Several kayaks
+came skimming rapidly along the smooth and unruffled surface of the
+water as we approached, their occupants gazing with evident astonishment
+at the large "umiaks," whose motive power was to them invisible and
+incomprehensible. The Danish flag was run up on three separate
+flag-staves on shore, and a salute of seven guns was fired to welcome
+our arrival.
+
+There is much similarity about the various Danish settlements in
+Greenland. The houses are of the same size and colour, and generally of
+about the same number, whilst all possess their little church, their
+storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement is very prettily
+situated on the northern side of the largest of a group of many islands
+of all sizes. These are of the same metamorphic formation, and possess
+a more luxuriant vegetation than we had hitherto seen. The island is
+covered with numerous small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and
+swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking up to the ankles in a
+bog, is very great.
+
+The population of Egedesminde, which is the most southern settlement in
+the Inspectorate of North Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty
+souls, including the Danes, who with the Governor and his family number
+about twelve. The entire population of North Greenland is about four
+thousand three hundred.
+
+The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and stacked during the summer,
+and when dried is very generally used as fuel. The chief employment of
+the inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of collecting
+skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained on the mainland, but they are
+not plentiful.
+
+The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to present us with a fine
+large haunch of venison; but, curious to relate, when served up, it had
+an unmistakeable taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic patients, who
+were at this time nearly all convalescent, benefited largely from the
+quantities of fresh fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place.
+
+On the morning of the 2nd of October, having received on board the
+amount of coal promised, we bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed
+away amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of colours. The
+stoppages at these two civilized places were very pleasant breaks to us,
+after our long absence from society of any description, except our own,
+and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the kindness and true
+hospitality extended to us by our Danish friends in the different
+settlements in Northern Greenland will long be remembered with feelings
+of gratitude and pleasure.
+
+From the date of leaving this our last port until our arrival at
+Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous weather. Strong head winds
+were in constant attendance, and the ship's general state was being
+"battened down and under close-reefed topsails." Under these
+circumstances our daily rate of progress was remarkably slow, and on
+some days we found that we had actually increased our distance from home
+instead of having lessened it. Few on board had before experienced a
+longer continuance of really stormy weather. From the severe buffeting
+we received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to such a state
+as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head being almost wrenched off,
+and we were obliged to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage
+by means of the rudder pendants.
+
+On the 16th of October, to the intense surprise of everybody, a vessel
+was sighted ahead, which proved to be the "Pandora." How very small is
+this world we live in! Here were we in the middle of the broad Atlantic,
+fifteen hundred miles from England, and out of the course of all ships,
+and yet actually meeting a vessel that had purposely come out to seek
+us.
+
+The weather was too bad to allow us to communicate, but an interchange
+of news was effected by signal. The three ships remained in company for
+a couple of days, when they lost sight of each other in thick and blowy
+weather, we having previously ordered the "Discovery" to rendezvous at
+Queenstown in case of parting company.
+
+Our rudder being in such a dilapidated state, Captain Nares determined
+upon putting in to Valentia for the purpose of shifting it, the spare
+one having in the mean time been temporarily repaired. With this object
+we anchored in the snug little harbour of Valentia, on the 27th of
+October, and here Captain Nares and several of the officers left for the
+purpose of proceeding at once to London to report our arrival.
+
+  "Now, strike your sayles, yee jolly mariners,
+   For we be come unto a quiet rode,
+   Where we must land some of our passengers
+   And light this wearie vessel of her lode.
+   Here she awhile may make her safe abode."
+
+It is in vain to attempt to describe the pleasure we all felt at
+beholding trees and green fields once more, with the cattle browsing in
+them. It is difficult at once to throw off old habits, and there were
+many on board who expressed their anxiety to land at once with their
+guns for the purpose of shooting "that herd of musk-oxen." Had we given
+way to our inclinations, I fear our reception would not have been so
+warm or so hospitable as it was.
+
+The people of Valentia were the first to bid us welcome. Their kindness
+and hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. The rudder having
+been shifted, and sundry repairs executed, we took our departure on the
+following morning at daylight, being guided out of the place by a most
+eccentric and original old pilot. On the 29th we reached Queenstown,
+where we found the "Discovery" had arrived only a couple of hours
+before. Here again we received a warm welcome and enjoyed that hearty
+hospitality for which the Irish people are so justly celebrated. That
+evening we were the guests of the Port Admiral, he and Mrs. Hillyar
+hearing of no refusal, although we had to sit down to dinner in--well,
+clothes very dirty and very much the worse for wear. The next day,
+having taken in a supply of coals, we started for Portsmouth, the two
+ships remaining in company and arriving in that harbour together on the
+2nd of November.
+
+Our reception there and afterwards is a matter of history. Suffice it to
+say that our exertions received the approbation of our country and of
+our brother officers, and that the Lords of the Admiralty were pleased
+to express their satisfaction at the manner in which the expedition had
+been conducted by our leader, as well as at the way in which the work
+had been carried out by his subordinates.
+
+My story has now come to an end. My aim has been to describe our daily
+life during a very eventful service.
+
+I have quoted largely from my journal, and in some instances I have
+thought it best to copy from it _verbatim_.
+
+Nothing is further from my thoughts than to claim for this narrative any
+literary merit whatever. I simply wish it to be regarded as a plain but
+accurate statement of facts--an unpretending account of the cruise of
+one of the ships of the late expedition--by one of its members.
+
+In launching my little book upon the ocean of literature, I venture to
+quote the words of brave old Master Beste, who, being engaged in
+compiling a record of another Arctic expedition, humbly apologizes, as I
+do, for submitting his work to the public:--"And herein I humbly pray
+pardon, for my rude order of writing, which proceedeth from the barren
+brayne of a souldier and one professing armes, who desireth rather to be
+wel thought of with your honour for his well meaning than for anye hys
+cunning writing at all."
+
+[Illustration: _FAREWELL!_]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  Admiralty, Lords of, visit to the Polar ships, 9;
+    satisfaction at the results of the expedition, 368.
+
+  Admiralty Inlet, remains of Eskimos on shores of, 68.
+
+  Albert Head, 65.
+
+  Aldebaran, erratic conduct of, 200.
+
+  Aldrich, Lieut. Pelham, R.N., skill in managing a kayak, 30;
+    starts on a reconnoitring expedition in the autumn, 128;
+    second autumn journey with dog-sledge, 133;
+    starts on a third autumn journey, 136, 137;
+    ascends a hill near Cape Joseph Henry, 147;
+    glees by, 169, 216;
+    his lecture on meteorology, 169;
+    orchestra for the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171, 175, 214;
+    plays the harmonium at church, 187;
+    one of his dogs lost, 190;
+    plays at Christmas, 194, 195;
+    commands the extended party to the west, 241;
+    anxiety for his safety, 331;
+    return, 332.
+
+  Ale, prepared specially for the expedition, 17.
+    (_See_ Beer.)
+
+  "Alert," H.M.S., 1, 2;
+    special fittings, 3;
+    departure from Portsmouth, 9;
+    leaves Berehaven, 12;
+    commencement of the voyage, 15;
+    a lively ship, 17;
+    arrival at Godhavn, 26;
+    departure from Godhavn, 34;
+    on shore, 43;
+    proceeds to Cary Islands, 48;
+    Port Foulke, 51, 56;
+    perilous position of, 65, 91;
+    at Hannah Island, 100;
+    in Discovery Harbour, 104, 108, 293;
+    on shore near Cape Beechey, 112;
+    in the palæocrystic ice, 117, 118;
+    crosses the threshold of the unknown region, 119;
+    danger at Floe-berg Beach, 125, 134;
+    precarious winter quarters, 125, 135, 136;
+    housed in, 154;
+    internal winter arrangements, 156;
+    printing establishment, 165;
+    departure of sledges from, 257;
+    scurvy breaks out on board, 321;
+    succour from, reaches N. division, 325;
+    freed from winter quarters, 342;
+    forced on shore, 351;
+    afloat again, 347;
+    at Valentia, 367.
+    (_See_ Winter Quarters.)
+
+  "Alexandra," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.
+
+  Alexandra Bay, 61, 63.
+
+  Amusements in winter quarters, 167;
+    importance of, 163.
+    (_See_ Theatricals.)
+
+  _Anonyx nugax_: crustacea brought up at the extreme northern point, 309
+    (_n._).
+
+  Arctic Circle crossed by the expedition, 26.
+
+  Arctic Highlanders, 48.
+    (_See_ Eskimo.)
+
+  Arctic school, 166, 167, 213.
+
+  Arctic theatre. (_See_ Theatricals.)
+
+  "Arctic," whaler, reminiscences of, 360.
+
+  Astronomical observatory, 153, 180.
+
+  Astronomy, lecture on, by Captain Nares, 169;
+    by Commander Markham, 169.
+
+  Atanekerdluk, fossil plants at, 36.
+
+  Atlantic, gales of wind in, 17, 18.
+
+  Auks, Little. (_See_ Rotges.)
+
+  Autumn depôt. (_See_ Depôts.)
+
+  Autumn travelling, 128, 129, 133, 137 to 150;
+    discomfort, 141;
+    severe work, 147, 148;
+    return from, 148, 149;
+    results, 149.
+
+  Auxiliary sledges, 234.
+
+  Ayles, Adam, song by, 216.
+
+
+  Bache Island, of Hayes, not an island, 64.
+
+  Baffin, William, gave name to Woman Isles, 41.
+
+  Bag (sleeping), 139, 233, 235, 240, 279, 283, 287.
+
+  Baird Inlet, 57.
+
+  Baird, Cape, stopped by ice off, 103.
+
+  Banks Island, heavy pack on west coast, 200.
+
+  Bantry Bay. (_See_ Berehaven.)
+
+  Bardin Bay, 359.
+
+  Barrow, Cape John, 93.
+
+  Bears, hunt in Melville Bay, 46;
+    recent tracks, 86.
+
+  Beaumont, Lieutenant, H.M.S. "Discovery," his journey along the north
+      coast of Greenland, 346;
+    return of, 350.
+
+  Beechey, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
+    lane of water in direction of, 102, 112, 113;
+    rounded, 114.
+
+  Beer at Godhavn, 363.
+
+  Bellot, Cape, 103, 112;
+    Island, 112, 351.
+
+  Berehaven, expedition at, 12.
+
+  Bessels Bay, entrance passed, 100;
+    description of, 101.
+
+  Bessels, Dr., observation as to meetings of tides at Cape Fraser, 92;
+    coast-line correctly delineated by, 99.
+
+  Beverley, crimson cliffs of, 48.
+
+  Bide-a-wee Harbour, 58.
+    (_See_ Payer Harbour.)
+
+  Bills of fare, 185, 186, 196, 335.
+    (_See_ Play-bills.)
+
+  Birds of the Arctic regions, 24, 35, 50;
+    Brent geese, 345;
+    dovekies, 50, 101;
+    eider duck, 101, 131, 360;
+    falcon, 362;
+    fulmar petrel, 361;
+    glaucous gulls, 50;
+    ivory gulls, 50, 101;
+    kittiwakes, 50;
+    king ducks, 50, 332;
+    knots, 110;
+    looms, 40, 50;
+    ptarmigan, 225;
+    rotges, 46, 50, 360;
+    skuas, 332;
+    terns, 110, 332;
+    turnstones, 360.
+
+  Birthdays, celebration of, 184, 185.
+
+  Black, Cape, 253.
+
+  Blasting the ice, 87, 89, 90, 341, 349.
+
+  "Bloodhound," H.M. sledge, 259, 263.
+
+  Boats for the expedition, 4;
+    search for, left by Hayes, 53, 55;
+    on a sledge, 58;
+    jolly-boat of "Valorous" landed in Dobbin Bay, 84;
+    turned in on their davits owing to height of ice, 90;
+    advanced to northward of ship, 133;
+    hauled up during winter quarters, 157;
+    on sledges, 242 (_n._);
+    in Parry's expedition, details of, 243 (_n._);
+    painted, 245;
+    care of, on sledge, 279;
+    abandonment of, by Commander Markham, 288, 289, 318.
+
+  Boldroe, Mr., governor of Egedesminde, 365.
+
+  Botanical collections, 31.
+
+  Botany. (_See_ Vegetation.)
+
+  Bottle-nose whales, 20.
+
+  Brent geese, 345.
+
+  Brevoort Island, 57;
+    cairn on, 356.
+
+  Brevoort Cape in sight, 103.
+
+  "Bruin," largest dog on board, 210.
+
+  Bryant, Geo., H.M.S. "Discovery," serving in the "Alert," 169.
+
+  Buchanan Strait, Eskimo remains at, 69.
+
+  "Bulldog," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.
+
+  Burroughs, Geo., ship's steward, H.M.S. "Alert," acts in _Chops of the
+      Channel_, 173.
+
+  Butterflies, 351.
+
+  Byam Martin Cape, 360.
+
+
+  Cairns at the Cary Islands, 49;
+    at Life-boat Cove, 53;
+    at Cape Isabella, 56;
+    on Brevoort Island, 356;
+    ancient cairns on Washington Irving Island, 85;
+    on Hannah Island, 101;
+    at Lincoln Bay, 117;
+    at the "Alert's" winter quarters, 284.
+
+  Cairn Hill, 219, 220, 221, 225;
+    cairn built, 341.
+
+  Cane, Frederick, armourer, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 215.
+
+  Carl Ritter Bay, 99.
+
+  Cary Islands, 48;
+    depôt on, 49, 84.
+
+  Castletown. (_See_ Berehaven.)
+
+  Cave in the snow, 350.
+
+  Cetaceans, various kinds, 20, 21.
+
+  "Challenger," H.M. sledge, 217, 259.
+
+  Chlorine observations, 180.
+
+  _Chops of the Channel_, play acted by the men, 173.
+
+  Chorus, grand palæocrystic, 216.
+
+  Christmas in the Arctic regions, 192 to 197;
+    bill of fare, 196;
+    poem on, 196.
+
+  Clavering, Captain, Eskimo seen by, on east coast of Greenland, 69.
+
+  "Clements Markham," H.M. sledge, 217;
+    starts for "Discovery," 248.
+
+  Clements Markham Inlet, 288.
+
+  Clothing during winter, 159, 160;
+    sledging, 239.
+    (_See_ Foot-gear.)
+
+  Coal, discovery of, 350;
+    offer of, at Egedesminde, 363.
+
+  Cod-fish, 21, 25, 365.
+
+  Colan, Dr., H.M.S. "Alert," his lecture on food in the Arctic regions,
+      169;
+    medical instructions to officers of sledges, 238;
+    skilful treatment of Petersen, 255;
+    attention to scurvy patients, 333, 338, 345.
+
+  Cold, extreme, 208, 222, 224.
+    (_See_ Temperature.)
+
+  Collinson, Cape, 94.
+
+  Cook, while sledging, 235, 265.
+
+  Cooking apparatus, weight, 233;
+    description, 235.
+
+  Copenhagen, letters sent out from, 363.
+
+  Coppinger, Dr., H.M.S. "Discovery," state of lime-juice found by, in
+       Polaris Bay, 305;
+    journey with Lieut. Beaumont, 346.
+
+  Cress. (_See_ Mustard and Cress.)
+
+  Crimson cliffs of Beverley, 48.
+
+  Crinoids dredged up, 73.
+
+  Crow's-nest, description, 3;
+    Captain Nares constantly in, 66;
+    a cold berth, 98.
+
+  Crozier Island passed, 98.
+
+  Crustaceans dredged up at the extreme northern point, 309.
+
+  Cryolite mine in Greenland, 20.
+
+  Crystal Palace Glacier, 50.
+
+
+  Dancing at Christmas, 197;
+    old year, 204.
+
+  Darkness, approach of, 127;
+    in sledge travelling, 141;
+    in winter, 178, 182;
+    monotony of, 207.
+
+  Davis, John, musicians in the expedition of, 8;
+    gave name to Cape Desolation, 22, 23.
+
+  Davis Strait, 18, 19, 20.
+
+  Daylight. (_See_ Light.)
+
+  Deaths. (_See_ Petersen, Porter, "Discovery.")
+
+  Depôts on Cary Isles, 49;
+    Cape Isabella, 56;
+    Dobbin Bay, 85, 353;
+    Cape Collinson, 95;
+    Cape Morton, 102;
+    Lincoln Bay, 117, 248;
+    Floe-berg Beach, 122, 124;
+    near Cape Joseph Henry, 147, 149, 263, 321;
+    to southward of Floe Berg Beach for "Discovery" sledges, 255;
+    for sledge parties, 234.
+
+  "Deptford," snow storehouse so called, 154.
+
+  Desolation, Cape, 22.
+
+  Diptera, 351.
+
+  Disco, 6, 18, 34, 358, 362;
+    tradition of, 33, 34;
+    view from hills of, 31.
+    (_See_ Godhavn.)
+
+  Disco Bay, 31.
+
+  "Discovery," H.M.S., 95;
+    departure from Portsmouth, 9;
+    commencement of voyage, 15;
+    sighted off Greenland coast, 25;
+    towed by the "Alert," 41;
+    following, 45;
+    sent to communicate with natives at Cape York, 48;
+    at Port Foulke, 56;
+    perilous position, 65;
+    grounds off Cape Louis Napoleon, 90;
+    in great danger, 91;
+    blown from her anchors, 95;
+    lands a depôt at Cape Morton, 100;
+    in harbour, 104;
+    winter quarters of, 107;
+    sledge crew from, joins the "Alert," 108;
+    theatre on board, 174;
+    a health to, 217;
+    depôts laid out for sledges of, 227;
+    work of sledge parties, 242;
+    arrangement for opening communication with, from "Alert," 246, 255;
+    to return to England, 330;
+    joined by "Alert," 344, 345;
+    scurvy among crew of, 346;
+    two deaths, 346;
+    rendezvous at Queenstown, 367.
+
+  Discovery Harbour, 104, 106, 112;
+    "Alert" arrives at, 347.
+
+  Distant, Cape, walk to, 110;
+    "Alert" passes, 112.
+
+  Divine service, 187;
+    on Christmas day, 195;
+    before sledges start, 258, 259.
+
+  Dobbin Bay, 83, 86;
+    depôt at, 84, 353.
+
+  Dock cut in the ice at Dobbin Bay, 86.
+
+  Dockyard. (_See_ Portsmouth.)
+
+  Dog-driver. (_See_ Petersen.)
+
+  Dogs, Eskimo, 29, 38, 78, 79;
+    disease, 79;
+    wailing, 88;
+    habits, 130;
+    sledging, 80, 81, 128;
+    dog "Sallie" lost and found, 190, 191;
+    alarm of during winter, 199;
+    nearly steal musk-ox beef, 207;
+    alarm caused by, 210;
+    regularly fed, 210;
+    team sent with sledge to "Discovery," 247, 255;
+    trouble with, 253.
+    (_See_ Bruin, Sallie, Flo, Nellie.)
+
+  Dovekies, 50, 101, 115.
+
+  Draba, 57, 340.
+
+  Dredging, 25, 73, 102.
+
+  Driftwood, 112.
+
+  Drip. (_See_ Snow.)
+
+  Drip, inconvenience of, in winter, 182.
+
+  Ducks. (_See_ Birds.)
+
+  Dumb-bell Bay, 131.
+
+  Dundas Harbour, remains of Eskimos at, 68.
+
+  D'Urville, Cape, passed, 83.
+
+
+  Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.
+
+  Egedesminde, offer of coals at, 363;
+    expedition at, 364, 365.
+
+  Egerton, Lieut. George Le Clerc, R.N., officer of the watch when the
+      ship touched the first ice, 22;
+    starts on autumn travelling, 133;
+    stage manager of the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171;
+    parts taken by, 174, 214;
+    sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
+    sent to open communication with "Discovery," 247;
+    his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
+    second start for the "Discovery," 255;
+    sent to the "Discovery," 345.
+
+  Eider ducks, 131, 360.
+
+  Electricity, observations on, 180.
+
+  Ellesmere Land, 50.
+
+  Eskimo, Frederic, 29, 128;
+    Hans Hendrick, 39, 48, 354;
+    pilot, 42.
+    (_See_ Dogs.)
+
+  Eskimos, 33;
+    at Proven, 38;
+    Cape York, 48;
+    Etah, 52;
+    traces of, in Payer Harbour, 58;
+    in Twin-glacier Bay, 61, 62;
+    wanderings, 67, 69;
+    Admiral Sherard Osborn and Mr. Clements Markham on wanderings of, 68,
+      69;
+    remains on Capes Sabine, Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, Fraser,
+      shores of Buchanan Strait, Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Isle, 69;
+    at Admiralty Inlet and Dundas Harbour, 68;
+    at Cape Beechey, 69, 347;
+    in Whale Sound, 359.
+
+  Etah, native village, 52, 69.
+
+  Eugénie, H.I.H. the Empress, present of woollen caps from, 7, 236, 239,
+      287;
+    visits the Arctic ships, 8.
+
+  Exercise during winter, 181, 187;
+    for sledging crews, 227, 228.
+
+
+  Falcon, 362.
+
+  Farewell banquets, 8;
+    to the expedition at Portsmouth, 9, 10, 11;
+    to the "Valorous," 35.
+
+  Farewell Cape, 19, 23, 69.
+
+  Feilden, Captain, naturalist, H.M.S. "Alert," ascends hill above
+      Bessels Bay, 101;
+    visits Distant Cape, 110;
+    his lecture on geology, 169;
+    picks up skulls in Rawlings Bay, 352.
+    (_See_ Naturalist.)
+
+  Ferbrache, Wm., sledge crew, N. division, symptoms of scurvy, 306.
+
+  Figure-heads of the Arctic ships, 4.
+
+  Finner whale, 20.
+
+  Fire, precautions against, fire-hole, 160, 161;
+    alarm of, 226.
+
+  Fishing on the Torske bank, 25.
+
+  Fiskernaes, expedition off, 24.
+
+  Fitting out the expedition, 1 to 8.
+
+  "Flo," Eskimo dog, met with adrift, near Cape Joseph Henry, 323.
+
+  Floes. (_See_ Ice.)
+
+  Floe-bergs, description of, 114;
+    "Alert" secured inside a fringe of, 122, 125;
+    split by intense cold, 211.
+
+  Floe-berg Beach, depôt at, 122, 124;
+    desolate scene at, 126;
+    view from, 127;
+    winter quarters at, 132.
+
+  Flowers. (_See_ Vegetation.)
+
+  Foot-ball on the ice, 77.
+
+  Foot-gear, while sledging, 260, 261, 268, 280.
+
+  Foraminifera brought up at the extreme north point, 309.
+
+  Fossils, collections in Bessels Bay, 102;
+    in the coal, 350.
+
+  Fossil plants, at Atanekerdluk, 37;
+    in the coal near Discovery Harbour, 350.
+
+  Foulke Port, 51, 56, 69, 330.
+
+  Foxes, traces of, 60, 107;
+    fox shot, 354.
+
+  Fox trap, 68.
+
+  Francombe, Reuben, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.
+
+  Franklin Pierce Bay, 72.
+
+  Fraser, Cape, 55, 72;
+    Eskimo remains on, 68;
+    passed by the ships, 92;
+    meeting of the tides, 93;
+    rounded, going south, 353.
+
+  Frederick VII., Cape, ship in danger off, 114.
+
+  Frederic, 29, 128.
+    (_See_ Eskimo.)
+
+  Freezing, experiments in, 223.
+
+  Fresh meat, 186.
+    (_See_ musk-ox, hares, Brent geese.)
+
+  Frost-bites, danger of, 81;
+    Petersen frost-bitten in the autumn, 129;
+    danger of, in autumn travelling, 142;
+    many frost-bites in return autumn journey, 147;
+    Lieut. May's severe frost-bite, 148;
+    other frost-bites and amputations, 148;
+    sufferers during the winter, 198;
+    precautions against, 199, 208;
+    on the dog sledge, in journey to "Discovery," 249.
+
+  "Frost-bite Range," 148.
+
+  Frozen ocean, 200, 215;
+    depôts cannot be laid out on, 234, 244;
+    difficulty of travelling over, 242;
+    movements of, 242.
+    (_See_ Palæocrystic Sea, Sledgings.)
+
+  Fulmar petrels, 361.
+
+
+  Gales of wind in the Atlantic, 17, 18;
+    in Smith Sound, 59;
+    in Robeson Channel, 119;
+    at Floe Berg Beach, 124;
+    furious gale during autumn travelling, 133, 134;
+    in winter quarters, 205, 206;
+    while sledging, 282, 283, 285, 296, 297;
+    on the voyage home, 366, 367.
+
+  Geese. (_See_ Brent.)
+
+  Geology, lecture on, by Captain Feilden, 169.
+
+  Geological collections, 31, 102, 116, 350.
+    (_See_ Fossils.)
+
+  Geological formation, 64, 67, 68;
+    physical aspect of the coast lines, 99.
+
+  Ger-falcon, 362.
+
+  Giffard, Lieut. R.N., H.M.S. "Alert," magnetic observer, 154;
+    in charge of the printing, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, 215, 216;
+    lecture on magnetism by, 169;
+    parts taken by, in theatricals, 214.
+
+  Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, musicians on board ship of, 7.
+
+  Glaciers: of Jacobshavn, 32;
+    of the Waigat, 36;
+    of Omenak fiord, 38;
+    near Cape York, Petowik, 48;
+    Crystal Palace, 50;
+    my brother John's (of Kane), 52;
+    twin glaciers, 60, 61;
+    of Grinnell Land, 64, 73, 83;
+    in Bessels Bay, 99;
+    Tyndall, 359.
+
+  Glaucous gulls, 50.
+
+  Godhavn, arrival at, 26;
+    lovely weather at, 33;
+    hospitality of the people, 33, 363, 364.
+
+  Godthaab, expedition off, 24.
+
+  Good, Joseph, petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 168.
+
+  Gore, Wm., stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 216.
+
+  Grampus, 21.
+
+  Grand palæocrystic chorus, 216.
+
+  Greenland, streams of ice, sweep down east coast of, 23;
+    coast of, 25;
+    natives on east coast, 69;
+    insularity of, argument from tides, 92;
+    distant view from Floe-berg Beach, 128;
+    exploration of northern coast, 242, 346.
+
+  "Greenwich," observatory at winter quarters so called, 152.
+
+  Grinnell Land, description of, 67, 72;
+    coast line, 94.
+
+  Gulls, 50, 101, 332, 360.
+
+  Guy Fawkes' day celebrated, 179.
+
+
+  Hair frozen into solid masses, 209;
+    effect of sledge travelling on colour of, 334.
+
+  Hakluyt Island, 50.
+
+  Hall Basin, 100, 101.
+
+  Haloes, 200.
+
+  Hannah Island, ships anchored inside, 100;
+    visit to, 101.
+
+  Hans Egede, 24.
+
+  Hans Hendrik, Eskimo engaged at Proven, 39;
+    endeavour to engage his brother-in-law, 48;
+    seal shot by, 354.
+
+  Hares, traces of, 60, 107;
+    at "Alert's" winter quarters, 211;
+    traces of, on the Polar Sea, 296, 314;
+    left by Captain Nares for N. division, 321;
+    shot, going south, 345, 351.
+
+  Harmonium, obtained from the "Valorous," at church, 187.
+
+  Hartstene Bay, arrival at, 51.
+
+  Hawks, Cape, 83.
+
+  Hayes, Dr., 51, 52, 53, 72, 73, 85, 99, 360.
+
+  Hayes, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69;
+    ascent of, 90.
+
+  Hayes Sound, 60;
+    tides in, 62;
+    intended exploration, 330.
+
+  Henry Island of Hayes, not an island, 64.
+
+  "Hercules," H.M. sledge, Lieut. W. H. May, R.N., 137, 217.
+
+  Hilgard, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69.
+
+  Hoskins, Commodore A. H., sledging flagstaff presented by, 307.
+
+  Housing for winter quarters, 154, 155, 156.
+
+  Hudson's Bay Company's Taboggans, suitable in soft snow, 281.
+
+  Hummocks, difficulty of marching over, on the Polar Sea, 278, 279, 281,
+      284, 301;
+    discoloured by mud, 301;
+    great barrier of, 303;
+    great size, 304, 305;
+    different colours of, 316.
+
+  Hunt, Wm., ward-room cook, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 214.
+
+  Hydrostatics, lecture on, by Lieut. May, 169.
+
+
+  Ice, first seen, 22;
+    stream of, near Cape Farewell, 23;
+    the middle pack, 44, 45;
+    dangers, 65, 66;
+    occupations when detained by, 66;
+    ships stopped by, 57, 65, 73, 82, 90, 95, 103, 110, 113, 121, 344;
+    amusements on the, 77;
+    dock cut in the, 86;
+    great height of, 89;
+    increasing thickness, 96;
+    extending across Hall Basin, 100;
+    pressure on Cape Frederick VII., 114;
+    of the Polar Ocean, 127, 147, 200;
+    the dangerous state of the, in autumn travelling, 141;
+    movement of, during winter, 184;
+    character of, in travelling over the Polar Ocean, 284, 291, 300;
+    symptoms of disruption, 315, 320;
+    state of, on the voyage southward, 344.
+    (_See_ Palæocrystic, Blasting, Floe-bergs, Hummocks.)
+
+  Ice navigation, most important maxim in, 45;
+    uncertainty of, 57, 64;
+    qualities required for, 82.
+
+  Icebergs first sighted, 22;
+    constantly seen, 23;
+    in Disco Bay, 32, 34;
+    danger from, in the Waigat, 38;
+    indicate shoal water, 60;
+    danger from, off Albert Head, 65;
+    ships endangered by, 91;
+    number decreasing, 96;
+    innumerable, 359.
+
+  Independence, Cape, of Kane, 98.
+
+  Insects collected, 351.
+
+  Isabella, Cape, 356, 357;
+    Captain Markham lands at, 56, 57, 95;
+    letters at, 358.
+
+  Itivdliarsuk glacier, 36.
+
+  Ivory gull, 46, 50, 101.
+
+
+  Jacobshavn, glacier of, 32.
+
+  John Barrow, Cape, 93.
+
+  Jolliffe, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," in N. division sledge
+      party, holds out to the end, 326 (_n._).
+
+  Joseph Henry, Cape, 127;
+    Aldrich starts for, in the autumn, 136;
+    depôt near, 147;
+    dog "Sallie" lost at, 190;
+    arrival of sledges at, 263;
+    floes off, 282;
+    encamped abreast of, 285;
+    description of, 285;
+    northern division of sledges reaches, 321;
+    last seen, 343.
+
+
+  Kane, Dr., his open polar sea, 72, 98, 360.
+
+  Kardluk Point, in the Waigat, 36.
+
+  Kayak, difficulty of using, 30;
+    adventure of Mr. Wootton, 30;
+    Eskimo pilot in, 43.
+
+  Kennedy Channel crossed, 103;
+    musk-oxen on east side of, 103.
+
+  "Kew," magnetic observatory at winter quarters so called, 154.
+
+  Kew Observatory, thermometer tested at, 223.
+
+  King ducks, 50, 332.
+
+  Knapsacks, sledging, contents, 235, 236.
+
+  Knots, seen and secured at Distant Cape, 110.
+
+
+  Lady Franklin Inlet, 103, 111.
+
+  Lafayette Bay (of Kane), 98, 99.
+
+  Lancaster Sound, geology, 67;
+    remains of Eskimo on shores of, 68;
+    "Alert" off mouth of, 360.
+
+  Lemmings, traces of, 107;
+    description, 115, 116;
+    eaten by "Nellie," 212;
+    traces away from the land, 278.
+
+  Letters at Cape Isabella, 358;
+    at Godhavn, 363;
+    at Littleton Island, 358, 362.
+
+  Lieber, Cape, 102.
+
+  Lievely, 26.
+    (_See_ Godhavn.)
+
+  Life-boat Cove, visit to, 53.
+
+  Light, lecture on, by Lieut. Parr, R.N., 169;
+    return of, 207, 225.
+
+  Lime-juice, regular daily issue of, 16;
+    impossibility of using, while in a frozen state, away sledging, 238;
+    taken on the sledges by Commander Markham and Lieut. Parr, 238;
+    served out to sledge crew by Commander Markham, 305;
+    useless unless the whole volume is thawed, 305;
+    its use in the treatment of scurvy, 329;
+    used on all sledge journeys when its use was possible, 330.
+
+  Lincoln Bay, 115;
+    coast between, and Cape Union, 121;
+    depôt, 117, 248.
+
+  _Little Vulgar Boy_, play acted by the officers, 214.
+
+  Littleton Island, visit of Captain Nares and Commander Markham to, 53,
+      55;
+    not visited, going south, 358;
+    mail at, 358, 362.
+
+  Looms (_see_ Birds), 40, 41.
+
+  Loom soup, 40.
+
+  Louis Napoleon, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
+    passed by the ships, 90.
+
+  Lyngenmarkfjeld, in Disco, ascent of, 31.
+
+
+  M'Clintock, Admiral Sir Leopold, sledge of, the best, 281;
+    superintends outfit of expedition, 2;
+    his detention in the Melville Bay pack, 44;
+    sledge equipments superintended by, 231;
+    on the absurdity of taking frozen lime-juice on sledges, 238;
+    tea-leaves recommended by, 316.
+
+  Magnetic observations, 31;
+    while sledging, 73, 180, 305;
+    snow observatory for, 152, 153, 209.
+
+  Magnetism, lecture on, by Lieutenant Giffard, R.N., 169.
+
+  "Marco Polo," H.M. sledge, 137, 217, 259.
+
+  Marine shells found above sea-level, 116.
+
+  Markham, Commander Albert H., R.N., visit to Littleton Island, 53;
+    to Cape Isabella, 56;
+    to Hannah Island, 101;
+    to Distant Cape, 110;
+    starts on an autumn reconnaissance, 128;
+    starts on second autumn sledge journey, 133;
+    on main autumn sledge journey, 137, 144;
+    in charge of magnetic observations, 154;
+    lecture on astronomy, 169;
+    parts taken by, 174, 214;
+    followed by a wolf, 228;
+    takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
+    in command of the northern division of sledges, 242, 311;
+    attains the most northern point ever reached by man, 309, 311;
+    resolves to abandon large boat, 288, 289;
+    serves out lime-juice, 305.
+
+  Markham, Clements, on Eskimo wanderings, 68.
+    (_See_ Clements Markham.)
+
+  "Markham Hall," storehouse at winter quarters, 152;
+    demolition of, 210.
+
+  Maskell, William, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 216;
+    parts taken by, 174;
+    sledge crew, N. division, holds out to the end, 317, 318 (_n._).
+
+  May, Lieutenant W. H., R.N., starts on autumn travelling, 137;
+    severely frost-bitten, 147;
+    suffers amputation, 148;
+    astronomical observer, 152;
+    his lecture on hydrostatics, 169;
+    manager of the theatre, 214;
+    glee sung by, 216;
+    sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
+    comes to the rescue of the northern division, 325;
+    goes to succour Aldrich's party, 331, 332.
+
+  Medical staff, their tests of the physical capacity of the officers and
+      men, 15;
+    unremitting care of the sick, 333.
+
+  Medical inspections, 187, 204, 258, 326, 337.
+
+  Medical stores for sledges, 238 (_n._);
+    weight, 233.
+
+  Medical instructions to commanders of sledges, 238.
+
+  Melville Bay, 18, 44;
+    passage through, 44;
+    bear hunt in, 46.
+
+  Melville Island, remains of Eskimo at, 69;
+    musk-oxen at, 106.
+
+  Men of the expedition, selection of, 4;
+    tests of physical capacity, 15;
+    regular daily issue of lime-juice to, 16;
+    always reliable in an emergency, 125;
+    sufferings and excellent conduct in autumn travelling, 134, 145;
+    their good humour and wit, 146;
+    frost-bites and amputations, 148;
+    clothing during winter, 159, 160;
+    school for, in winter, 166, 167, 213;
+    theatricals, 171, 173;
+    Christmas cheer, 195;
+    fondness for dancing, 195, 197, 204;
+    excellent health, 204;
+    paleness on return of sun, 211;
+    heroic conduct while sledging, 277, 286, 287, 291, 302, 310, 311,
+      313, 316, 352.
+
+  Meteor, brilliant, seen at winter quarters, 201.
+
+  Meteorites at Ovifak, 31.
+
+  Meteorological observations, 162, 180, 183, 223.
+
+  Middle pack, Captain Nares's resolve to take the, 44.
+
+  Miocene Period, coal of, discovered, 347.
+
+  Mollies, 361.
+
+  Moon, 181.
+    (_See_ Paraselenæ.)
+
+  Moravian missionaries, 24.
+
+  Morton, Cape, 100, 102;
+    depôt of, 100.
+
+  Morton, Mr., his "open polar sea," 93;
+    description of Cape Constitution, accurate, 98;
+    unable to ascend cliff, 98.
+
+  Mosquitoes, plague in Greenland, 32.
+
+  Moss, Dr., surgeon, H.M.S. "Alert," reading by, 168;
+    lecture on mock moons under the microscope, 169;
+    makes a balloon on Guy Fawkes' day, 180;
+    paints scenery for theatre, 171;
+    succours the northern division, 326;
+    sketch for bill of fare by, 335;
+    paints the boats, 245.
+
+  Murchison Sound, 50.
+
+  Musical instruments, 7.
+    (_See_ Harmonium, Piano.)
+
+  Musicians in the ships of Sir H. Gilbert and John Davis, 7, 8.
+
+  Musk-oxen, traces of, 60, 61;
+    hunting, 104;
+    range of, 106;
+    traces in Discovery Harbour, 107;
+    beef presented by "Alert" to "Discovery," 108;
+    hunt in Shift-Rudder Bay, 113;
+    quantity of meat from, 186, 204;
+    meat nearly stolen by dogs, 207;
+    in the summer, 338.
+
+  Mustard and cress grown in the "Alert," 205, 211, 345.
+
+
+  Nares, Captain George S., R.N., resolves to take the middle pack, 44;
+    visits Life-boat Cove and Littleton Island, 53;
+    constant vigilance, 66;
+    visits Hannah Isle, 101;
+    ascends hill above Cape Morton, 102;
+    selects winter quarters for "Discovery," 107;
+    observes opening in the pack, 114;
+    catches a lemming, 115;
+    desirous of finding a more sheltered spot for winter quarters, 128,
+      135;
+    his account of sledge travelling, 140;
+    lecture on astronomy, 169;
+    gives name to the Palæocrystic Sea, 200;
+    excellent health and spirits of those under his command at the
+      commencement of the New Year, 204;
+    lecture on sledging experiences, 215;
+    arrangement for opening communication with "Discovery," 246;
+    unjust attack upon, regarding lime-juice, 237;
+    absurdity of the charge against him, 238;
+    his Union Jack taken with northern division, 258;
+    at Cape Joseph Henry Depôt, 321;
+    leaves hares for northern division, 321;
+    comes to the relief of the northern division, 325, 327;
+    decision to return home, 337, 346;
+    anxiety for safety of Beaumont, 349;
+    accepts offer of coal at Egedesminde, 363;
+    lands at Valentia, 367;
+    satisfaction of the Admiralty with his conduct of the Expedition, 368.
+
+  Narwhal hunting, 59.
+
+  Naturalist, zeal in a gale of wind, 19;
+    visit to Ovifak, 31;
+    finds Eskimo remains at Cape Beechey, 69;
+    ascends hill in Bessels Bay, 101;
+    at distant Cape, 110.
+    (_See_ Feilden, Captain.)
+
+  "Nellie," Commander Markham's black retriever, coveted by Eskimos at
+      Proven, 39;
+    dislike of Eskimo dogs, 78;
+    surprise at the tabogganing, 188;
+    stood the cold well, 188, 189;
+    adventure with, in the unifilar house, 209, 210;
+    eats the lemmings, 212;
+    followed by a wolf, 228.
+
+  Nelson, Lord, an old Arctic officer, 179.
+
+  New Year's day, 202, 203, 204.
+
+  Nip, preparations for, 65, 71, 83;
+    off Cape M'Clintock, 94;
+    south of Cape Beechey, 348.
+    (_See_ Ice.)
+
+  Norman-Lockyer Island, Eskimo remains on, 69, 74;
+    visited, 73.
+
+  North extreme, camp, 307, 308;
+    farthest point ever reached, 309, 311.
+
+  "North Water," of Baffin Bay, 47;
+    of Smith Sound, 72, 97.
+
+  Northumberland Island, 50.
+
+  Norton Shaw Cape, passed by the ships, 94.
+
+
+  Observations, scientific, in winter quarters, 180;
+    difficulties, 180;
+    while sledging, 305;
+    at farthest northern point, 307, 310.
+    (_See_ Magnetic, Meteorological, Astronomical.)
+
+  Observatories, wooden, for transit instrument, 152;
+    magnetic, 154;
+    dismantling of, 227.
+
+  Officers, selection, 4;
+    tests of physical capacity, 15;
+    amusements, 167;
+    lectures by, 169;
+    theatricals, 169, 173;
+    scientific observations, 180;
+    birthdays celebrated, 184;
+    Christmas, bill of fare for, 196;
+    approval of decision of Captain Nares to return, 337.
+    (_See_ under names.)
+
+  Omenak fiord, discharging glaciers in, 38.
+
+  Orchestra, Royal Arctic Theatre, 171.
+
+  Osborn, Rear-Admiral Sherard, C.B., dedication to, v.;
+    on Eskimo wanderings, 68.
+
+  Ovifak, visit of naturalist to, 31.
+
+
+  Pack. (_See_ Ice.)
+
+  Palæocrystic Sea, name given, 200, 234.
+    (_See_ Frozen Ocean.)
+
+  Palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel, 92, 114, 118.
+
+  Palæocrystic grand chorus, 216;
+    sung at the most northern position ever reached by man, 310.
+
+  "Pandora" brings letters to Cape Isabella, 358;
+    at Godhavn, 363;
+    sighted in the Atlantic, 366.
+
+  Paraselenæ, 181, 200.
+
+  Parr, Lieut. A. C. C., R.N., ascends the hill above Bessels Bay, 101;
+    starts on autumn travelling, 133, 137, 144;
+    sledge goes through the ice, 144;
+    in charge of astronomical observatory, 152;
+    lecture on light by, 169;
+    takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
+    an indefatigable road-maker, 286;
+    sent to the ship for help, 322, 325.
+
+  Parry, Sir Edward, his farthest northern point passed, 150;
+    his sense of the importance of exercising and improving the minds of
+      the men in winter quarters, 163, 166;
+    attempt to reach the pole, 243 (_n._).
+
+  Parry Islands, Eskimo remains on shores of, 68.
+
+  Payer Harbour, 58.
+
+  Pearce, Alfred, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216;
+    severely frost-bitten, 286;
+    attacked by scurvy, 289.
+
+  Pemmican, 237, 270.
+
+  Pendulum Islands, Eskimos met with near, 69.
+
+  Petermann fiord, 100;
+    fine view of, 103.
+
+  Petersen, Danish dog-driver, autumn travelling, 128, 129;
+    starts for "Discovery," 248;
+    frost-bitten, 248;
+    efforts to save his life, 248 to 254;
+    brought back to the ship, 254;
+    death of, 255, 321.
+
+  Petowick glacier, 48.
+
+  Photographing at Godhavn, 31.
+
+  Pinkey and Collins' patent topsails, 3.
+
+  Plants, 31, 57, 60, 74, 107.
+    (_See_ Vegetation.)
+
+  Plays. (_See_ Theatricals.)
+
+  Play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214.
+
+  Plymouth, visit from Commander-in-Chief, 11.
+
+  Polar Ocean, 122, 128, 215, 234, 242;
+    Parry's attempt to sledge over, 243 (_n._);
+    march of the northern division over, 276, 311 (_see_ Hummocks), 285,
+      301;
+    young ice, 296.
+
+  Polaris Bay, 100;
+    state of lime-juice found in, 305;
+    sledge-crew recruiting at, 346, 349.
+
+  "Polaris," visit to her second winter quarters, 53, 54;
+    her cruise, 72;
+    Dr. Bessels of, 92, 99;
+    land seen from, 101;
+    musk-ox shot by crew of, 106;
+    Eskimo kind to crew of, 360.
+
+  Polarization of light, observations, 180.
+
+  "Poppie," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Giffard, 217, 259.
+
+  Poppies, 57, 74.
+
+  Popular entertainments in winter quarters, 168, 169;
+    programmes, 175, 176.
+
+  Portsmouth Dockyard, ships fitting out at, 1;
+    harbour, departure of expedition from, 9, 10;
+    return to, 368.
+
+  Potentillas, 340.
+
+  Prayers, 187.
+    (_See_ Divine service.)
+
+  Presents to the expedition, 6, 7, 193, 194.
+
+  President Land has no existence, 101.
+
+  Prince Patrick Island, heavy pack on west coast of, 200.
+
+  Prince Regent Inlet, formation of cliffs, 64, 67.
+
+  Printing office in winter quarters, 164, 165;
+    prospectus, 164;
+    bills of fare, 185.
+
+  Prologue, Royal Arctic Theatre, 172, 173.
+
+  Protococcus nivalis, 48.
+
+  Proven, arrival at, 38;
+    survey of, 39.
+
+  Provisions for sledging, weight, 233;
+    scale, 237.
+
+  Ptarmigan, 225.
+
+  Pullen, Rev. W. H., chaplain, H.M.S. "Alert," glees by, 216;
+    lecture on Arctic plants, 169;
+    author of the prologue, 171, 172, 176;
+    leads the choir, 187;
+    Christmas bill of fare by, 196;
+    lines on the New Year by, 202;
+    a burlesque operetta written by, 214;
+    grand chorus composed by, 216;
+    service on departure of sledges, 258, 259;
+    lines welcoming return of sledges by, 336.
+
+
+  Queenstown, rendezvous at, 367.
+
+
+  Radmore, John, chief carpenter's mate, H.M.S. "Alert," sledge crew in
+      northern division, holds out against scurvy, 318;
+    to the last, 326 (_n._).
+
+  Radmore Harbour, Eskimo's remains at, 69.
+
+  Rainbow, 325.
+
+  Rawlings, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," captain of sledge,
+      northern division, attacked by scurvy, 306.
+
+  Rawlings Bay, 352.
+
+  Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, R.N., joins the "Alert" from the "Discovery,"
+      108;
+    visits Distant Cape, 110;
+    glees by, 169;
+    parts taken in theatricals by, 174, 214;
+    skill in tabogganing, 187;
+    visit to snow hut built by, 212;
+    accompanies Egerton on journey to "Discovery," 247;
+    his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
+    arrives from "Discovery," 346.
+
+  Rawson Cape, 219, 343.
+
+  Records left at Cape Isabella, 57;
+    in cairn on Hannah Island, 101;
+    at extreme northern point, 312;
+    at Cairn Point (winter quarters), 341.
+
+  Reindeer, Port Foulke, 52;
+    traces, 60;
+    scarce near Egedesminde, 365.
+
+  Retrospect on New Year's day, 197.
+
+  Reward for crossing 83rd parallel, 292 (_n._).
+
+  Richardson Bay, 99.
+
+  Right whales, 21.
+
+  Rink, Dr., on the Eskimo, 33.
+
+  Ritenbenk, expedition at, 34.
+
+  Road-making on the ice, 273, 275, 277, 279, 286, 292, 294.
+
+  Robeson Channel, 69;
+    view of, 110;
+    position on American chart not to be recognized, 115;
+    palæocrystic floes of, 118;
+    examination of fiords, 242.
+
+  Rorqual whale, 21.
+
+  Ross, Sir John, Arctic highlanders of, 48;
+    red snow, 48.
+
+  Rotges, or little auks, 46, 50, 360.
+
+  Royal Arctic Theatre, 169, 170;
+    prologue, 172;
+    plays, 173, 214.
+
+  Rudder, arrangement for unshipping, 3;
+    head damaged, 67;
+    unshipped for a nip, 83;
+    seriously injured, 113;
+    shifted, 113;
+    frequent necessity for unshipping, 344;
+    head badly wrenched, 344, 351.
+
+
+  Sabine, Cape, 55, 57, 59;
+    Eskimo remains on, 69;
+    passed, going south, 356.
+
+  Sails for sledges, 231 (_n._).
+
+  "Sallie" suspected of robbing Rawson's depôt, 213.
+    (_See_ Dogs.)
+
+  Salt beef, character of, 154.
+
+  "Sanderson, his hope," shooting looms at, 40.
+
+  Sanitary condition of the men in winter quarters, 187.
+
+  Saxifrage, 57, 74, 340.
+
+  Scenery of Greenland, 24;
+    from Disco, 31;
+    in Disco Bay, 35;
+    in the Waigat, 36;
+    near Cape York, 48, 50;
+    of the glaciers, 60;
+    off Cape Hawks, 83;
+    at winter quarters, 126;
+    at the extreme northern point, 310, 311.
+
+  School in winter quarters, 165, 166;
+    last assemblage of, 213.
+
+  Scientific observations in winter quarters, 180.
+
+  Scoresby on the size of the rorqual, 21.
+
+  Scoresby Bay, 94.
+
+  Scurvy, 237;
+    premonitory symptoms, 284, 285;
+    dread of, 299;
+    increasing symptoms, 303, 304, 305, 313;
+    decrease of appetite, 314;
+    extreme weakness, 317;
+    outbreak on board the "Alert," 321;
+    true causes of the outbreak, 329, 330;
+    cure of patients, 333, 339, 345;
+    patients convalescent, 365;
+    outbreak in sledge crews of "Discovery," 346.
+
+  Seals basking on the ice, 24, 45;
+    shot by Hans, 354.
+
+  Selection of officers and men for Arctic service, 4.
+
+  Self, James, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216.
+
+  Shells, marine, found above sea-level, 116.
+
+  Shift-Rudder Bay, 114.
+
+  Shirley, John, stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 168;
+    attacked by scurvy, 282;
+    on the sledge, 284.
+
+  Shooting parties in summer, 338 to 340.
+
+  Sick. (_See_ Scurvy.)
+
+  Simpson, Thos., H.M.S. "Alert," in sledge crew, northern division,
+      attacked by scurvy, 306.
+
+  Skating, 77, 110.
+
+  Sky, beauty of, 83.
+    (_See_ Meteor, Sun.)
+
+  Sledges, description of, 231 (_n._);
+    sails for, 231 (_n._);
+    weight, 233;
+    boats on, 242 (_n._);
+    required for northern division, 244;
+    dog sledge sent to "Discovery," 247;
+    departure of sledges in the spring, 257, 258;
+    sledge standards, 258;
+    art of packing, 277;
+    high-runner sledges the best, 281;
+    (_See_ Dogs, Marco Polo, Hercules, Victoria, Bloodhound, Bulldog,
+      Alexandra, Challenger, Poppie, Clements Markham.)
+
+  Sledge crews, exercise of, 227.
+
+  Sledging, first lessons in 58;
+    with dogs, 79, 80, 81, 128;
+    first experiences, 129;
+    severe work, 133;
+    details of, 137;
+    shore-going notions of, 138;
+    realities, 139;
+    lecture on, by Captain Nares, 215;
+    grand palæocrystic chorus, 216;
+    preparations for, during the winter, 230;
+    equipments superintended by Sir Leopold M'Clintock, 231;
+    weights, 233;
+    auxiliaries and depôts, 234;
+    tents, 235;
+    cooking apparatus, 235;
+    contents of knapsack and storebag, 237;
+    scale of provisions, 237;
+    medical stores, 238 (_n._);
+    clothing, 239, 240;
+    programme of sledding, operations, 241;
+    the first encampment, 260;
+    intense cold, 259, 262;
+    arrival at autumn depôt, 263;
+    daily routine, 264 to 270;
+    road-making, 273, 275, 276;
+    increasing difficulties, 304;
+    method of advancing, 295, 304, 306, 313;
+    most northern encampment, 307;
+    extreme northern point, 309 to 311;
+    return journey of northern division begun, 312;
+    northern division reaches land, 321;
+    return of northern division, 327;
+    western division, 331, 332;
+    eastern division, 350.
+    (_See_ Autumn, Hummocks, Temperature, Foot-gear, Cook.)
+
+  Sleeping-bags, 139, 235, 240;
+    weight of, 233;
+    frozen hard, 280, 283, 287.
+
+  Smith, Mr. Krarup, Inspector of North Greenland, his hospitality, 26,
+      29, 363.
+
+  Smith Sound, 47, 49, 69.
+
+  Snow, crimson, 48;
+    heavy falls in Smith Sound, 71, 73, 95;
+    in Robeson Channel, 111, 119, 121;
+    heavy falls during autumn travelling, 147;
+    buildings with, 152, 153, 154;
+    temperature at different depths, 162;
+    heavy drifts during winter, 205;
+    drifts while sledge travelling, 261, 287, 306.
+
+  Snow blindness, precautions against, 240;
+    use of goggles, 286, 303.
+
+  Snow bunting seen by sledge crews, 319.
+
+  Snow hut built by Rawson, 212.
+
+  Sorrel, 345.
+
+  Soundings at extreme northern point, 308, 309.
+
+  Southsea Common, farewell to the expedition from, 9, 10.
+
+  Specific gravity observations, 180.
+
+  Spectrum analysis observations, 180.
+
+  Standards for sledges, 258.
+
+  Stanton, Cape, in sight, 103.
+
+  Steam, lecture on by Mr. Wootton, 169.
+
+  Stone, Geo., of the "Discovery," serving on board the "Alert," songs
+      by, 174.
+
+  Store-bag, sledging contents, 237.
+
+  Stoves, 158.
+
+  Stuckberry, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by,
+      173, 216.
+
+  Summer, 337, 339.
+
+  Sumner, Cape, in sight, 103.
+
+  Sun, sets at midnight, 127;
+    final disappearance, 141;
+    last view of, 148, 150;
+    date of final departure, 151, 178;
+    longing for the return of, 207;
+    return of, 219, 220, 221, 222;
+    effect of, on the ice, 207, 313.
+
+  Sylvester heating apparatus not supplied, 158.
+
+  Symons, Robert, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," printer, 164 (_n._), 169, 175,
+      216;
+    songs by, 214.
+
+
+  Tabogganing, 187.
+
+  Taboggans, Hudson's Bay Company's sledges, suitable for soft snow, 281.
+
+  Temperature, observations for, 162;
+    variations during winter, 183;
+    extreme cold, 223, 224;
+    while sledging, 259, 262, 278, 283, 286, 290, 294, 295, 302, 313,
+      314, 320.
+
+  Tents, 139;
+    weight, 233;
+    description of, 235, 260.
+
+  Terns, 110, 332.
+
+  Tests of physical capacity, 15.
+
+  Theatricals, dresses, 171;
+    orchestra, 171;
+    prologue, 172;
+    play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214;
+    plays, 173, 214.
+
+  Thermometers tested, 224.
+
+  Thermometrical observations, 162, 223.
+    (_See_ Temperature.)
+
+  "Thursday pops," 168, 169, 175, 176, 215.
+
+  Tidal observations at Twin Glacier Bay, 62;
+    in winter quarters, 161, 180.
+
+  Tides, meeting of, at Cape Fraser, 92;
+    in Polar Sea, 304, 309.
+
+  "Tigress," at Life-boat Cove, 53.
+
+  Torske bank, fishing on, 25.
+
+  Trafalgar day celebrated, 179.
+
+  Turnstones, 360.
+
+  Twin Glacier Bay, 61.
+
+  Tyndall Glacier, 359.
+
+
+  "Unies." (_See_ Narwhals.)
+
+  Unifilar House, 209.
+
+  Union, Cape, 101, 103, 118;
+    rounded, 121, 122;
+    pressure on, 125, 343.
+
+  Union Jack of Captain Nares, taken with the northern division, 258;
+    planted at the most northern point, 309.
+
+  Upernivik, 41, 42, 43, 358.
+
+
+  Valentia, "Alert" at, 367.
+
+  "Valorous," H.M.S., to take out stores to Disco, 6;
+    joins the Arctic ships, 11;
+    to make the best of her way to Disco, 14;
+    at Disco, 28;
+    kindness of captain and officers, 33;
+    farewell to, 35;
+    lost sight of, 37;
+    jolly-boat landed at Dobbin Bay, 84;
+    harmonium obtained from, 187.
+
+  Vegetation at Godhavn, 31;
+    at Cape Isabella, 57;
+    at Twin Glacier Bay, 60;
+    at Norman Lockyer Island, 74;
+    in Discovery Harbour, 107;
+    lecture on Arctic plants by Mr. Pullen, 169;
+    of the Arctic summer, 340.
+
+  Ventilation during winter, 158;
+    drip, 182.
+
+  "Victoria," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Parr, R.N., 137, 217, 259;
+    goes through the ice, 144.
+
+  Victoria Head, 67.
+
+  Von Buch, Cape, 93.
+
+
+  Waigat, scenery of, 36;
+    danger from fogs and icebergs, 37;
+    steam out of, 38.
+
+  Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.
+
+  Wales, Prince of, Mountains, 50.
+
+  Walrus seen on the ice, 45, 74;
+    hunts, 74, 75, 76.
+
+  Walter Bathurst Cape, 360.
+
+  Warming apparatus not supplied, 157.
+
+  Warming arrangements during winter, 157, 158.
+
+  Washington Irving Island, ancient cairns on, 85.
+
+  Weights for sledging, 232;
+    to be dragged by each man, 233;
+    in Parry's expedition, 243 (_n._).
+
+  Welcome of sledge travellers to ship, 335, 336;
+    of the expedition, on return to England, 368.
+
+  Whales, 20, 21. (_See_ Cetaceans.)
+
+  Whale Sound, 49, 359.
+
+  White, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," lecture on history by, 169;
+    part taken by, at the theatricals, 174;
+    improvement of sledge-cooking apparatus by, 236.
+
+  Willow, 74.
+
+  Wind. (_See_ Gales.)
+
+  Winter, approach of, 126.
+
+  Winter quarters, precarious nature of at Floe-berg Beach, 126, 132;
+    preparations for, 151 to 254;
+    routine, 160.
+    (_See_ Ventilation, Warming, Housing, Clothing, Fire-hole, Amusements.)
+
+  Wolf, appearance of a, 228, 229.
+
+  Wolves, traces of, 60, 107, 321;
+    alarm of, 199.
+
+  Woman Islands, 41.
+
+  Wood, Sergeant, H.M.S., "Alert," recitation and song by, 216.
+
+  Woolley, Wm., H.M.S., "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.
+
+  "Woolwich," snow powder storehouse at winter quarters so called, 154;
+    dismantling of, 227.
+
+  Wootton, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," adventure in a kayak, 30;
+    his lecture on steam, 169, 175;
+    glee sung by, 216.
+
+
+  York, Cape, 47, 49.
+
+  Young, Sir Allen, gratitude to, for bringing out letters, 358, 362.
+
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.
+
+
+
+
+
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+
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: The Great Frozen Sea
+       A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
+
+Author: Albert Hastings Markham
+
+Release Date: August 31, 2013 [EBook #43608]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREAT FROZEN SEA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marius Masi, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="center pt2"><img style="width:557px; height:829px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/imgcov.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+
+<p class="ptb2 center col f200">THE GREAT FROZEN SEA</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:885px; height:556px" src="images/img4.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;ALERT&rdquo; AND &ldquo;DISCOVERY.&rdquo;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p class="pt2 center col">THE</p>
+<p class="center col f200">GREAT FROZEN SEA</p>
+
+<p class="pt2 center"><i>A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE<br />
+OF THE &ldquo;ALERT&rdquo;</i></p>
+
+<p class="pt1 center">DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6</p>
+
+<p class="pt2 f80 center">BY</p>
+
+<p class="center verd col f120">REAR-ADMIRAL ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, R.N.</p>
+<p class="center f80">(LATE COMMANDER OF H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT&rdquo;)</p>
+
+<p class="center f80">AUTHOR OF &ldquo;A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN&rsquo;S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA,&rdquo;<br />
+AND &ldquo;THE CRUISE OF THE &lsquo;ROSARIO&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90 pt2" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;There&rsquo;s a flag on the mast, and it points to the north,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And the north holds the land that I love;</p>
+<p>I will steer back to northward, the heavenly course,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Of the winds guiding sure from above.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 pt1"><span class="sc">Frithiof&rsquo;s &ldquo;Saga&rdquo;</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="pt2 center f90">SEVENTH EDITION</p>
+
+<p class="pt2 center">LONDON<br />
+KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRÜBNER &amp; CO., <span class="sc">Lt<span class="sp">d</span></span><br />
+1894</p>
+
+<p class="ptb2 center">(<i>The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.</i>)</p>
+
+
+<div class="center">
+<p class="scs">TO</p>
+
+<p class="verd">The Memory of</p>
+
+<p class="f120">REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B.,</p>
+
+<p class="scs">WHO, WHILE HE LIVED,</p>
+<p class="scs">WAS THE MOVING SPIRIT IN SECURING THE DESPATCH OF</p>
+<p class="scs">THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, AND WHOSE PAST DEEDS</p>
+<p class="scs">IN THE SAME FIELD REFLECTED A BRIGHT RAY OF HOPEFUL LIGHT</p>
+<p class="scs">ON THOSE WHO STROVE TO EMULATE HIS EXAMPLE</p>
+<p class="scs">WHILST FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOTSTEPS,</p>
+
+<p class="verd pt1">This little Work</p>
+
+<p class="scs">IS REVERENTLY AND AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY</p>
+
+<p>THE AUTHOR.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.</p>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> History of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, and
+the record of its results, will be found in the work of
+Sir George Nares. My object in publishing the
+present volume is to furnish a popular narrative of
+memorable events as they presented themselves to an
+individual member of the Expedition, and especially
+of the work of sledge travelling over the frozen polar
+ocean. It was written a few months after our return
+to England, but its appearance has been purposely
+deferred until the publication of the work by Sir
+George Nares.</p>
+
+<p>The same reasons still exist for continuing the work
+of Arctic exploration as were adduced for commencing
+it in 1875.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to complete so great a work in one
+campaign, and the results of the late Expedition
+ought only to whet our appetites, and stimulate us to
+undertake further discoveries.</p>
+
+<p>The narrative of Sir George Nares will show the
+completeness of the work accomplished, so far as the
+route by Smith Sound is concerned, and with the
+appendices containing the numerous and valuable
+scientific results, will prove the importance of Arctic
+discovery. But there are other routes remaining to
+be explored, which will yield equally useful results.</p>
+
+<p>Behring Strait is a portal leading to a vast region,
+the history of which has hitherto been as a sealed
+book.</p>
+
+<p>An expedition to the east coast of Greenland for
+the purpose of connecting our discoveries at Cape
+Britannia with those of the Germans at Cape
+Bismarck, and thus solving the interesting geographical
+problem regarding the insularity of Greenland,
+would be of the greatest importance.</p>
+
+<p>The exploration of Jones and Hayes Sounds offer
+a rich field; but that which, in my opinion, would
+yield the most profitable harvest, is the continuation
+of the discoveries of the Austro-Hungarian expedition
+in Franz-Josef Land. Once reach in a ship the
+position attained by Lieut. Payer and his sledge
+party, and such a measure of success would follow as
+would prove satisfactory even to the most sanguine.
+Although the flags of Holland, Sweden, and America
+will this year float in the Arctic Regions, that of
+England will be unrepresented.</p>
+
+<p>It is hardly to be expected, in the present critical
+state of affairs, that our Government can afford to
+give either time or attention to the subject of Arctic
+exploration, but when the existing differences are all
+happily settled, there will really be more reasons for
+following up the work than were brought forward for
+undertaking it in 1875. We were never in a better
+position for doing so than at the present time. We
+possess a couple of ships whose capabilities for Arctic
+navigation have been already thoroughly tested, and
+found perfect; we have officers and men experienced
+in the navigation of those icy seas and in sledging,
+and we have stores and provisions ready to equip
+another expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The expense, seeing that the ships and stores are
+lying idle, would be insignificant, and would hardly
+be more than equal to that of keeping a couple of
+small gun-boats in commission. Surely this great
+nation could easily afford, in the interests of science
+and for her own honour, to incur such an expenditure.
+I trust so; and I, for one, look forward with confident
+hope to the despatch, in a few years, of another Arctic
+expedition as well equipped as the one of which I was
+lately a member.</p>
+
+<p class="mr">A. H. M.&emsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="scs">21, Eccleston Square</span>,<br />
+&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;<i>March, 1878</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">OFFICERS AND SHIP&rsquo;S COMPANY OF<br />
+H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<div class="f90">
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Officers.</span></p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Captain</i>, <span class="sc">George S. Nares</span>, F.R.S.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Commander</i>, <span class="sc">Albert H. Markham</span>, F.R.G.S.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Lieutenant</i>, <span class="sc">Pelham Aldrich</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">&emsp;&emsp;&rdquo;&emsp;&emsp;<span class="sc">Alfred A. Chase Parr</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">&emsp;&emsp;&rdquo;&emsp;&emsp;<span class="sc">George A. Giffard</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">&emsp;&emsp;&rdquo;&emsp;&emsp;<span class="sc">William H. May</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Sub-Lieutenant</i>, <span class="sc">George Le C. Egerton</span> (promoted to Lieutenant during the absence of the expedition).</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Fleet Surgeon</i>, <span class="sc">Thomas Colan</span>, M.D.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Surgeon</i>, <span class="sc">Edward L. Moss</span>, M.D.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Engineer</i>, <span class="sc">James Wootton</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">&emsp;&ensp; &rdquo;&emsp; &ensp;<span class="sc">George White</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Naturalist</i>, Captain <span class="sc">H. Wemyss Feilden</span>, R.A., F.G.S., F.Z.S.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Chaplain</i>, Rev. <span class="sc">W. H. Pullen</span>.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center pt2"><span class="sc">Ship&rsquo;s Company.</span></p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">Joseph Good, chief boatswain&rsquo;s mate.</td> <td class="tcl">William Ferbrache, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">John R. Radmore, chief carp. mate.<a name="fa1a" id="fa1a" href="#ft1a"><span class="sp">1</span></a></td> <td class="tcl">George Cranstone, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Geo. Burroughs, ship&rsquo;s steward.</td> <td class="tcl">William Lorrimer, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Vincent Dominic, ship&rsquo;s cook.</td> <td class="tcl">George Winstone, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">David Deuchars, ice quartermaster.</td> <td class="tcl">Reuben Francombe, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">John Thores, ice quartermaster.</td> <td class="tcl">Thomas H. Simpson, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">James Berrie, ice quartermaster.</td> <td class="tcl">David Mitchell, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Edward Lawrence, 1st cl. P.O.<a name="fa2a" id="fa2a" href="#ft2a"><span class="sp">2</span></a></td> <td class="tcl">Alfred R. Pearce, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Daniel Harley, 1st cl. P.O.<a name="fa3a" id="fa3a" href="#ft3a"><span class="sp">3</span></a></td> <td class="tcl">James Self, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Thomas Stuckberry, 1st cl. P.O.</td> <td class="tcl">William Woolley, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Thomas Rawlings, 1st cl. P.O.</td> <td class="tcl">John Pearson, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">James Doidge, 1st cl. P.O.<a name="fa4a" id="fa4a" href="#ft4a"><span class="sp">4</span></a></td> <td class="tcl">William Maskell, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Thomas Jolliffe, 1st. cl. P.O.</td> <td class="tcl">William Malley, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Spero Capato, captain&rsquo;s steward.</td> <td class="tcl">Robert Symons, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">George Kemish, W. R. steward.</td> <td class="tcl">Henry Mann, shipwright.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Frederick Cane, armourer.</td> <td class="tcl">William Gore, stoker.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">John Hawkins, cooper.</td> <td class="tcl">John Shirley, stoker.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">William F. Hunt, W. R. cook.</td> <td class="tcl">Edward Stubbs, stoker and blacksmith.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Robert Joiner, leading stoker.</td> <td class="tcl">George Norris, carpenter&rsquo;s crew.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">John Simmons, 2nd cl. P.O.</td> <td class="tcl">Neil Christian Petersen, Danish interpreter and dog driver.<a name="fa5a" id="fa5a" href="#ft5a"><span class="sp">5</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Adam Ayles, 2nd cl. P.O.</td> <td class="tcl">Frederic, Eskimo dog driver and hunter.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center pt2"><span class="sc">Marines</span></p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">William Wood, colour-sergeant R.M.L.I.</td> <td class="tcl">Elias Hill, gunner R.M.A.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">William Ellard, private R.M.L.I.</td> <td class="tcl">George Porter, gunner R.M.A.<a name="fa6a" id="fa6a" href="#ft6a"><span class="sp">6</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Thomas Smith, private R.M.L.I.</td> <td class="tcl">Thomas Oakley, gunner R.M.A.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">John Hollins, private R.M.L.I.</td> <td class="tcl">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The following sledge crew from H.M.S. &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; wintered
+on board the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">Lieutenant Wyatt Rawson.</td> <td class="tcl">James Hand, A.B.<a name="fa8a" id="fa8a" href="#ft8a"><span class="sp">8</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">George Bryant, 1st cl. P.O.<a name="fa7a" id="fa7a" href="#ft7a"><span class="sp">7</span></a></td> <td class="tcl">Thomas Chalkley, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">George Stone, 2nd cl. P.O.</td> <td class="tcl">Alfred Hindle, A.B.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Michael O&rsquo;Regan, A.B.</td> <td class="tcl">Elijah Rayner, private R.M.L.I.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p>The following &ldquo;means&rdquo; of ages, weights, and chest capacities of
+those belonging to the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; may be of interest:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcc bb">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tccm bb">Age.</td> <td class="tccm bb">Weight.</td> <td class="tccm bb">Chest<br />Capacity</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Officers</td> <td class="tcl">32.1 years</td> <td class="tcl">149.8 lbs.</td> <td class="tcl">266</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Men</td> <td class="tcl">27.4  &emsp;&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcl">146.6  &ensp;&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcl">245.1</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">General Mean</td> <td class="tcl">28.4  &emsp;&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcl">147.3  &ensp;&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcl">249.5</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1a" id="ft1a" href="#fa1a"><span class="fn">1</span></a> Promoted to carpenter.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2a" id="ft2a" href="#fa2a"><span class="fn">2</span></a> First class petty officer.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft3a" id="ft3a" href="#fa3a"><span class="fn">3</span></a> Lost in H.M.S. &ldquo;Eurydice.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft4a" id="ft4a" href="#fa4a"><span class="fn">4</span></a> Promoted to boatswain.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft5a" id="ft5a" href="#fa5a"><span class="fn">5</span></a> Died on May 14th from the effects of frost-bite whilst sledging.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft6a" id="ft6a" href="#fa6a"><span class="fn">6</span></a> Died on the 8th of June of scurvy whilst sledging.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft7a" id="ft7a" href="#fa7a"><span class="fn">7</span></a> Promoted to boatswain.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft8a" id="ft8a" href="#fa8a"><span class="fn">8</span></a> Died in June of scurvy whilst sledging with Lieut. Beanmont.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CONTENTS.</p>
+
+<div class="f90">
+<table class="nobctr" style="width: 95%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tcr scs">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><span class="sc">Dedication</span></td> <td class="tcr">v</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><span class="sc">Preface</span></td> <td class="tcr">vii</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><span class="sc">Officers and Ship&rsquo;s Company or H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;</span></td> <td class="tcr">xi</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="list">
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter I. Fitting Out.</span></p>
+
+<p>Description of ships, <a href="#page2">2</a>; special fittings, <a href="#page3">3</a>; selection of officers and
+men, <a href="#page5">5</a>; kindness of friends, <a href="#page6">6</a>; games and musical instruments,
+<a href="#page7">7</a>; visitors to the ships, <a href="#page8">8</a>; departure, <a href="#page9">9</a>; arrival at Bantry Bay,
+<a href="#page12">12</a>; the voyage commenced, <a href="#page13">13</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter II. The Voyage to Disco.</span></p>
+
+<p>Tests of physical capacity, <a href="#page15">15</a>; regular issue of lime-juice, <a href="#page16">16</a>; gales
+of wind in the Atlantic, <a href="#page17">17</a>; slow progress, <a href="#page19">19</a>; whales, <a href="#page20">20</a>; the
+first ice, <a href="#page22">22</a>; the Land of Desolation, <a href="#page22">22</a>; seals, <a href="#page23">23</a>; the Greenland
+coast, <a href="#page25">25</a>; fishing for cod, <a href="#page25">25</a>; arrival at Godhavn, <a href="#page26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter III. The Greenland Settlements.</span></p>
+
+<p>An Eskimo dance, <a href="#page28">28</a>; Eskimo dogs, <a href="#page29">29</a>; amusements at Godhavn,
+<a href="#page30">30</a>; ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, <a href="#page31">31</a>; aid from the &ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo;
+<a href="#page33">33</a>; tradition of Disco, <a href="#page34">34</a>; Ritenbenk, <a href="#page35">35</a>; part company with
+&ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo; <a href="#page36">36</a>; the Waigat Strait, <a href="#page36">36</a>; dangers in the Waigat,
+<a href="#page37">37</a>; Proven, <a href="#page38">38</a>; Hans Hendrik engaged, <a href="#page39">39</a>; &ldquo;Sanderson, his
+hope,&rdquo; <a href="#page39">39</a>; Upernivik, <a href="#page41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter IV. Melville Bay and the North Water.</span></p>
+
+<p>Preparations for a nip, <a href="#page43">43</a>; the middle ice, <a href="#page44">44</a>; a bear hunt, <a href="#page46">46</a>; the
+North Water, <a href="#page47">47</a>; Cary Island depôt, <a href="#page49">49</a>; approaching Smith
+Sound, <a href="#page50">50</a>; enter Smith Sound, <a href="#page51">51</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter V. Smith Sound.</span></p>
+
+<p>Life-boat Cove, <a href="#page53">53</a>; visit winter quarters of &ldquo;Polaris,&rdquo; <a href="#page54">54</a>; Littleton
+Island, <a href="#page55">55</a>; Cape Isabella, <a href="#page56">56</a>; stopped by the ice, <a href="#page57">57</a>; Payer
+Harbour, <a href="#page58">58</a>; first experiences in sledging, <a href="#page59">59</a>; Twin Glacier
+Bay, <a href="#page60">60</a>; an Arctic paradise, <a href="#page61">61</a>; tidal observations, <a href="#page62">62</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter VI. Struggles with the Ice.</span></p>
+
+<p>Open water, <a href="#page64">64</a>; in danger of a nip, <a href="#page65">65</a>; vigilance of Captain Nares,
+<a href="#page66">66</a>; wanderings of the Eskimo, <a href="#page68">68</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter VII. A Walrus Hunt. Dog Driving.</span></p>
+
+<p>Grinnell Land, <a href="#page72">72</a>; glaciers, <a href="#page73">73</a>; a walrus hunt, <a href="#page74">74</a>; amusements on
+the ice, <a href="#page77">77</a>; the Eskimo dogs, <a href="#page78">78</a>; dog sledging, <a href="#page80">80</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter VIII. Slow Progress through the Ice.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cape Hawks and Dobbin Bay, <a href="#page83">83</a>; discovery of an ancient cairn, <a href="#page85">85</a>;
+cutting a dock, <a href="#page87">87</a>; struggles through the ice, <a href="#page90">90</a>; dangerous
+position, <a href="#page91">91</a>; Cape Fraser, <a href="#page92">92</a>; junction of two tides, <a href="#page92">92</a>; Cape
+John Barrow, <a href="#page93">93</a>; Cape Collinson, <a href="#page94">94</a>; heavy squalls, <a href="#page95">95</a>; increasing
+thickness of floes, <a href="#page96">96</a>; icebergs decreasing in number,
+<a href="#page96">96</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter IX. Kennedy Channel.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cape Constitution, <a href="#page98">98</a>; difference in appearance of coast-lines, <a href="#page99">99</a>;
+Hall Basin blocked with ice, <a href="#page100">100</a>; Bessels Bay, <a href="#page100">100</a>; Hannah
+Island, <a href="#page101">101</a>; cross Kennedy Channel, <a href="#page103">103</a>; musk-oxen, <a href="#page104">104</a>;
+winter quarters of &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page107">107</a>; the two ships part company,
+<a href="#page107">107</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter X. The Crossing of the Threshold.</span></p>
+
+<p>Robeson Channel, <a href="#page110">110</a>; stopped off Cape Beechey, <a href="#page113">113</a>; Shift-Rudder
+Bay, <a href="#page114">114</a>; floe-bergs, <a href="#page114">114</a>; the first lemming, <a href="#page115">115</a>; marine shells
+above sea-level, <a href="#page116">116</a>; depôt established at Lincoln Bay, <a href="#page117">117</a>; a
+fortunate escape, <a href="#page119">119</a>; crossing the threshold, <a href="#page119">119</a>; finally stopped
+by ice, <a href="#page121">121</a>; the Frozen Ocean, <a href="#page122">122</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XI. Floe-berg Beach.</span></p>
+
+<p>Saved by floe-bergs, <a href="#page125">125</a>; precarious winter quarters, <a href="#page126">126</a>; a reconnaissance
+in dog-sledges, <a href="#page128">128</a>; habits of Eskimo dogs, <a href="#page130">130</a>;
+Dumb-bell Bay, <a href="#page131">131</a>; eider-ducks, <a href="#page132">132</a>; two boats advanced
+northwards, <a href="#page133">133</a>; a severe march, <a href="#page134">134</a>; danger of the ship, <a href="#page134">134</a>;
+unable to move, <a href="#page135">135</a>; autumn sledging commenced, <a href="#page136">136</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XII. Autumn Travelling.</span></p>
+
+<p>Autumn travelling, <a href="#page138">138</a>; discomforts, <a href="#page139">139</a>; liability to frost-bites, <a href="#page142">142</a>;
+difficulties, <a href="#page145">145</a>; cheerfulness of the men, <a href="#page146">146</a>; highest position
+reached in the autumn, <a href="#page147">147</a>; frost-bites, <a href="#page147">147</a>; return of travellers,
+<a href="#page149">149</a>; results, <a href="#page150">150</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XIII. Winter Quarters.</span></p>
+
+<p>Preparations for winter, <a href="#page152">152</a>; observatories, <a href="#page153">153</a>; snow houses, <a href="#page154">154</a>;
+the ship &ldquo;housed&rdquo; in, <a href="#page154">154</a>; interior arrangements, <a href="#page156">156</a>; winter
+clothing, <a href="#page159">159</a>; precautions against fire, <a href="#page161">161</a>; observations for
+temperature, <a href="#page162">162</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XIV. The Royal Arctic Theatre.</span></p>
+
+<p>Printing-office, <a href="#page164">164</a>; school, <a href="#page166">166</a>; amusements, <a href="#page167">167</a>; Thursday pops,
+<a href="#page168">168</a>; lectures, <a href="#page169">169</a>; the Royal Arctic Theatre, <a href="#page170">170</a>; the prologue,
+<a href="#page172">172</a>; conjuring entertainment, <a href="#page175">175</a>; magic-lantern exhibition,
+<a href="#page176">176</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XV. Winter Occupations and Amusements.</span></p>
+
+<p>Departure of the sun, <a href="#page178">178</a>; Guy Fawkes&rsquo; Day, <a href="#page179">179</a>; scientific observations,
+<a href="#page180">180</a>; the moon, <a href="#page181">181</a>; open-air exercise, <a href="#page181">181</a>; inconvenience
+from drip, <a href="#page182">182</a>; fluctuations of temperature, <a href="#page183">183</a>; movement of
+the ice, <a href="#page184">184</a>; celebration of birthdays, <a href="#page185">185</a>; bill of fare, <a href="#page185">185</a>;
+fresh meat, <a href="#page186">186</a>; Divine service, <a href="#page187">187</a>; medical inspections, <a href="#page187">187</a>;
+tabogganing, <a href="#page187">187</a>; Nellie, <a href="#page189">189</a>; a lost dog, <a href="#page190">190</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XVI. An Arctic Christmas.</span></p>
+
+<p>Preparations for Christmas Day, <a href="#page193">193</a>; Christmas presents, <a href="#page194">194</a>;
+Christmas Day, <a href="#page195">195</a>; retrospect, <a href="#page197">197</a>; frost-bite patients, <a href="#page198">198</a>;
+precautions against frost-bite, <a href="#page199">199</a>; the Palæocrystic Sea, <a href="#page200">200</a>;
+a brilliant meteor, <a href="#page200">200</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XVII. A Happy New Year.</span></p>
+
+<p>New Year&rsquo;s Day, <a href="#page202">202</a>; mustard and cress, <a href="#page205">205</a>; heavy snow-drifts,
+<a href="#page206">206</a>; returning light, <a href="#page207">207</a>; severe cold, <a href="#page208">208</a>; an alarm in the
+observatory, <a href="#page209">209</a>; condition of the Eskimo dogs, <a href="#page210">210</a>; Nellie and
+the lemmings, <a href="#page212">212</a>; Rawson&rsquo;s snow hut, <a href="#page212">212</a>; the last school
+meeting, <a href="#page213">213</a>; the last dramatic performance, <a href="#page214">214</a>; the last
+&ldquo;pop,&rdquo; <a href="#page215">215</a>; grand palæocrystic sledging chorus, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XVIII. Return of the Sun.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cairn Hill, <a href="#page220">220</a>; the sun&rsquo;s return, <a href="#page221">221</a>; intense cold, <a href="#page223">223</a>; experiments
+on various substances during extreme cold, <a href="#page223">223</a>; daylight, <a href="#page225">225</a>;
+alarm of fire, <a href="#page226">226</a>; dismantling the observatories, <a href="#page227">227</a>; the
+sledge-crews exercised, <a href="#page228">228</a>; a wolf, <a href="#page229">229</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XIX. Details of Sledge Travelling.</span></p>
+
+<p>Preparations for sledging, <a href="#page231">231</a>; weights, <a href="#page232">232</a>; auxiliary sledges and
+depôts, <a href="#page234">234</a>; tents, <a href="#page235">235</a>; cooking apparatus, <a href="#page236">236</a>; scale of provisions,
+<a href="#page237">237</a>; lime-juice, <a href="#page238">238</a>; medical instructions, <a href="#page238">238</a>; sledging
+costume, <a href="#page239">239</a>; precautions against snow-blindness, <a href="#page240">240</a>; programme
+of sledging work, <a href="#page241">241</a>; boats to be carried by northern
+division, <a href="#page244">244</a>; names of sledges, <a href="#page245">245</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XX. The Journey of Egerton and Rawson.</span></p>
+
+<p>Decide to communicate with &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page247">247</a>; departure of Egerton
+and Rawson, <a href="#page248">248</a>; their return, <a href="#page249">249</a>; Petersen frost-bitten, <a href="#page249">249</a>;
+heroic conduct, <a href="#page251">251</a>; efforts to save Petersen, <a href="#page251">251</a>; difficulties of
+the return journey, <a href="#page253">253</a>; Egerton&rsquo;s second start, <a href="#page255">255</a>; death of
+Petersen, <a href="#page255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XXI. The Routine of Sledge Travelling.</span></p>
+
+<p>Departure of the sledges, <a href="#page258">258</a>; first camp, <a href="#page260">260</a>; intense cold, <a href="#page262">262</a>;
+arrival at the autumn depôt, <a href="#page263">263</a>; the parties separate, <a href="#page264">264</a>;
+duties of cook, <a href="#page265">265</a>; sledging breakfast, <a href="#page266">266</a>; luncheon, <a href="#page266">266</a>;
+halting for the night, <a href="#page268">268</a>; evenings in the tent, <a href="#page270">270</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XXII. The Northern Division&mdash;Travelling
+in April.</span></p>
+
+<p>Heavy ice encountered, <a href="#page273">273</a>; road-making over the ice, <a href="#page275">275</a>; struggling
+over hummocks, <a href="#page278">278</a>; daily routine, <a href="#page279">279</a>; continued cold,
+<a href="#page280">280</a>; excellence of the sledges, <a href="#page281">281</a>; first symptoms of disease,
+<a href="#page282">282</a>; a gale of wind, <a href="#page283">283</a>; heavy snow-drifts, <a href="#page285">285</a>; disease increasing,
+<a href="#page286">286</a>; excellent conduct of the men, <a href="#page286">286</a>; resolve to
+abandon one boat, <a href="#page288">288</a>; increased weight to drag, <a href="#page289">289</a>; intense
+cold, <a href="#page290">290</a>; state of the floes, <a href="#page291">291</a>; cross the <a href="#page83">83</a>rd parallel, <a href="#page292">292</a>;
+enormous hummocks, <a href="#page293">293</a>; hummocks and snow-drifts, <a href="#page294">294</a>;
+tracks of a hare seen, <a href="#page296">296</a>; young ice, <a href="#page296">296</a>; enforced rest, <a href="#page297">297</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XXIII. The most Northern Point ever
+reached by Man.</span></p>
+
+<p>Scurvy, <a href="#page299">299</a>; difficulties increasing, <a href="#page300">300</a>; struggling northwards, <a href="#page301">301</a>;
+hummocks discoloured by mud, <a href="#page301">301</a>; condition of party, <a href="#page303">303</a>;
+issue of lime-juice, <a href="#page304">304</a>; scorbutic symptoms, <a href="#page305">305</a>; the last advance,
+<a href="#page306">306</a>; most northern encampment, <a href="#page307">307</a>; soundings obtained,
+<a href="#page308">308</a>; the most northern position ever reached by man, <a href="#page309">309</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XXIV. Return of the Northern Division.</span></p>
+
+<p>Homeward bound, <a href="#page312">312</a>; increased sufferings, <a href="#page314">314</a>; courage of the men,
+<a href="#page316">316</a>; extreme weakness of the men, <a href="#page316">316</a>; abandonment of the
+second boat, <a href="#page318">318</a>; a snow-bunting seen, <a href="#page319">319</a>; the land reached,
+<a href="#page321">321</a>; Parr despatched for succour, <a href="#page322">322</a>; a stray dog, <a href="#page322">322</a>; death
+of Porter, <a href="#page323">323</a>; his burial, <a href="#page323">323</a>; saved, <a href="#page325">325</a>; return on board, <a href="#page326">326</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XXV. Return of all the Sledge Travellers.</span></p>
+
+<p>Causes of scurvy, <a href="#page329">329</a>; anxiety for Aldrich, <a href="#page331">331</a>; May sent to his
+rescue, <a href="#page331">331</a>; return of Aldrich, <a href="#page332">332</a>; care of the sick, <a href="#page333">333</a>; the
+welcome back, <a href="#page335">335</a>; decide to return to England, <a href="#page337">337</a>; musk-oxen,
+<a href="#page338">338</a>; shooting parties, <a href="#page338">338</a>; liberation of the ship, <a href="#page341">341</a>;
+under weigh, <a href="#page342">342</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XXVI. The Return Voyage in the Ice.</span></p>
+
+<p>Preparations for abandoning ship, <a href="#page344">344</a>; communicate with &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo;
+<a href="#page345">345</a>; discovery of Eskimo relics, <a href="#page347">347</a>; a severe nip,
+<a href="#page348">348</a>; critical situation of ship, <a href="#page349">349</a>; Discovery Harbour, <a href="#page349">349</a>;
+return of Beaumont, <a href="#page350">350</a>; a frozen cave, <a href="#page350">350</a>; &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; forced on
+shore, <a href="#page351">351</a>; struggles with the ice, <a href="#page352">352</a>; pass Cape Fraser and
+Dobbin Bay, <a href="#page353">353</a>; a seal and fox shot, <a href="#page354">354</a>; reach the open sea,
+<a href="#page354">354</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f120"><span class="sc">Chapter XXVII. Homeward Bound.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cape Isabella, <a href="#page357">357</a>; letters from home, <a href="#page358">358</a>; bad weather, <a href="#page359">359</a>;
+Whale Sound, <a href="#page359">359</a>; off Lancaster Sound, <a href="#page360">360</a>; reappearance of
+fulmar petrels, <a href="#page361">361</a>; reach Godhavn, <a href="#page362">362</a>; receive letters from
+England, <a href="#page363">363</a>; leave Godhavn, <a href="#page363">363</a>; Egedesminde, <a href="#page364">364</a>; sight
+the &ldquo;Pandora,&rdquo; <a href="#page366">366</a>; arrive at Valentia, <a href="#page367">367</a>; at Queenstown,
+<a href="#page367">367</a>; welcome home, <a href="#page368">368</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="width: 95%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl"><span class="sc">Index</span></td> <td class="tcr"><i>Page</i> <a href="#page371">371</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr f90" style="width: 90%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcc f120" colspan="2">FULL-PAGE PLATES.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tcrb">PAGE</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">&rdquo;Alert&rdquo; and &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo;</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Polar Bears</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><i>To face</i> <a href="#page46">46</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Winter Quarters H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page151">151</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Highest Northern Camp</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page308">308</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Reducing a Floe-berg</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page349">349</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; forced on Shore</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page351">351</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc f120 pt2" colspan="2">SMALLER WOODCUTS.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Seals basking on the Ice</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page23">23</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Eskimo Women</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page28">28</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Walruses</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page75">75</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Cape Hawks</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page84">84</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Plan of Ice Dock</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page88">88</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">&rdquo;The Moaning of the Tied&rdquo;</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page89">89</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Musk Oxen</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page105">105</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Knots</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page111">111</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Dog-sledge in difficulties</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page131">131</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Start of the Autumn Sledges</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page143">143</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Diagram of Magnetic Observatories</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page153">153</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Flag-staff Point (Cape Sheridan)</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page155">155</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Royal Arctic Theatre&mdash;Scene from &ldquo;Aladdin and the
+Wonderful Scamp&rdquo;</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page170">170</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Nellie</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page189">189</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Lemmings</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page212">212</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Cairn Hill</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page220">220</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Sledge under sail</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page231">231</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Dogs and Sledge</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page247">247</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Getting ready to &ldquo;Bag&rdquo;</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page269">269</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Chart of Outward and Return Tracks</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page274">274</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Interior of Tent</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page280">280</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">A Packed Sledge</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page281">281</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Snow-bunting</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page319">319</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Brent-goose and Eider-ducks</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page340">340</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Allman Bay</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page355">355</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Fulmar Petrels (&ldquo;Mollies&rdquo;)</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page361">361</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Farewell!</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page369">369</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc" colspan="2"><hr class="hr1" /></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p><span class="sc">Map showing the Discoveries of the Arctic Expedition,
+    1875-6</span></p></td> <td class="tcrb"><i>To face</i> <a href="#page1">1</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:860px; height:901px" src="images/img22.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page1" id="page1"></a>1</span></p>
+
+<p class="ptb2 center col f200">THE GREAT FROZEN SEA.</p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER I.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">FITTING OUT.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede,</p>
+<p class="i05">Habundantly for hire a ful long space:</p>
+<p class="i05">And other necessaries that shuld nede</p>
+<p class="i05">She had ynow, heried be Godde&rsquo;s grace:</p>
+<p class="i05">For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace,</p>
+<p class="i05">And bring hire home, I can no better say</p>
+<p class="i05">But in the see she driveth forth hire way.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">Chaucer</span> (<i>Man of Lawe&rsquo;s Tale</i>).</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> above quaint lines, written five hundred years
+ago, well describe the scenes that were being enacted
+during the months of April and May, 1875, in
+Portsmouth Dockyard.</p>
+
+<p>Busy as this great naval depôt of England almost
+always is, it is seldom, in peace time, that so much
+interest is shown in the equipment of two small
+steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those
+that were then lying &ldquo;all a taunto&rdquo; in the steam
+basin of that extensive yard.</p>
+
+<p>The names of those comparatively small ships were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page2" id="page2"></a>2</span>
+the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; and the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; their destination
+the unknown North.</p>
+
+<p>Although of insignificant size, in comparison with
+the huge ironclad monsters by which they were
+surrounded, yet a close observer would readily detect
+signs of great strength in these two business-like
+looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they
+should possess strength and powers of resistance of no
+ordinary kind, for they were destined to grapple and
+fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of the
+Polar Ocean.</p>
+
+<p>The two ships had been very carefully selected and
+fitted for the important work in which they were
+about to engage. The &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; was a 17-gun sloop,
+and had already served two or three commissions on
+foreign stations before she was converted for Arctic
+service. The &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; was built in Dundee for
+the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had been
+engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland,
+before she was purchased for the Arctic expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; was thoroughly strengthened, and,
+under the supervision of the Admiral Superintendent
+of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock), adapted in
+every way for the hazardous service on which she was
+about to be employed.</p>
+
+<p>After a complete overhaul of her hull, all defective
+timbers and beams were removed, and replaced by
+sound ones; extra beam power was introduced; an
+external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering
+from amidships to four inches forward and three
+inches aft, extending from the keel to the waterways,
+was put on; whilst a longitudinal beam, placed
+between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page3" id="page3"></a>3</span>
+internally, bound and strapped the whole ship
+together. Extra iron knees were introduced in order
+more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of
+the ice; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch
+iron plates extending to about ten or twelve feet
+aft, whilst inside the bow was strengthened by
+numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood.</p>
+
+<p>Between the inside planking and the lining were
+placed sheets of felt for the promotion of warmth.
+New waterways, of a most substantial form, were
+added; and the ship was divided into watertight
+compartments.</p>
+
+<p>Two large davits projected over each quarter of the
+vessel, by the aid of which the rudder, some three
+tons weight, was easily shipped and unshipped when
+in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these
+occasions it would be suspended horizontally over the
+stern from the davits.</p>
+
+<p>Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance
+for making water, consisting of a large
+reservoir to receive either snow or ice; this, being
+dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is
+drawn off through a tap at the bottom, thus providing
+our water supply. Like all vessels employed in the
+whaling trade, both ships were fitted with Pinkey and
+Collins&rsquo; patent reefing and furling topsails; and each
+possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable
+of being utilized for many purposes.</p>
+
+<p>At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel
+was a large barrel-like object. This was the crow&rsquo;s
+nest, a very necessary item on board all ships destined
+to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged,
+and were supplied with the ordinary contrivances
+used on board short-handed merchant
+vessels to facilitate the work.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page4" id="page4"></a>4</span></p>
+
+<p>They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the
+heavily rigged but trim men-of-war, which, with their
+tapering spars and faultlessly squared yards, lay in
+the harbour near them.</p>
+
+<p>Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various
+shapes and sizes, specially designed and constructed
+for the service peculiar to Arctic waters. Two of
+these were completely equipped for whaling, so as to
+be able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals.
+They were both fitted with harpoon-guns fixed on
+swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three in
+number for each ship, and were built as light as it
+was possible to make them. Paddles were supplied,
+by which they could be propelled, as well as oars.
+They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each
+were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection
+from the ice.</p>
+
+<p>The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings,
+were exactly similar. They were what are commonly
+called &ldquo;fiddle-heads,&rdquo; having the Union Jack painted
+on them, and underneath the word <i>Ubique</i>; and to
+no flag can that word be more truly and more
+appropriately applied. <i>Everywhere</i> is it to be found,
+even beyond the limits of the abode of man!</p>
+
+<p>The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships
+were in a great measure regulated according to the
+establishments by which preceding expeditions had
+been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture
+and quality.</p>
+
+<p>Great care was taken in the selection of both
+officers and men, and none were appointed until they
+had undergone a searching medical examination as
+to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected
+who had the appearance of being fine and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page5" id="page5"></a>5</span>
+eligible young fellows. The slightest defect, such as
+bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for
+refusing the services of otherwise apparently strong
+and healthy men. Numerous were the volunteers
+that came forward, rendering the task of selecting
+a few from the number of eager willing men that
+presented themselves one of no little difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>Their social and moral qualifications were as
+strictly inquired into as was their physical condition;
+and men of a happy and genial disposition
+were selected in preference to others who appeared
+morose and taciturn.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Can you sing or dance? or what can you do for
+the amusement of others?&rdquo; were questions invariably
+addressed to candidates for Arctic service by the
+board of officers appointed to select from the numerous
+applicants who presented themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of
+those individuals who were informed that they were
+to be of that small chosen band, indicated most
+clearly the popularity of the enterprize amongst
+the men of the Royal Navy; whilst the disappointed
+ones, and they were many, showed only too plainly
+the mortification they experienced at being rejected.
+As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men
+to be employed in the expedition, a gallant captain
+commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at the
+office where the men were being entered, and requested
+advice. He said, &ldquo;An order has come on
+board my ship, directing me to send volunteers for
+Arctic service to this office. What am I to do?
+The whole ship&rsquo;s company, nearly eight hundred
+men, have given in their names!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>This is merely mentioned in order to show the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page6" id="page6"></a>6</span>
+amount of interest taken by the whole navy in
+the cause for which the ships were being equipped.</p>
+
+<p>The ships&rsquo; companies being completed, officers and
+men were unremittingly engaged in the various duties
+incidental to fitting out. Provisions and stores, sufficient
+to last for three years, had to be received on
+board and stowed away. There was no waste space
+on board either vessel. Every little nook and corner
+was destined to be the receptacle of some important
+article. The ships gradually settled down in the
+water as the weights on board accumulated, until they
+appeared to be alarmingly deep, whilst much yet
+remained unstowed. The Admiralty had, however,
+provided for this emergency. The &ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo; an old
+paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was
+ordered to convey all surplus stores, that could not
+be stowed on board the two exploring vessels, as
+far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of
+Greenland.</p>
+
+<p>This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as
+it would be obviously unsafe to cross the Atlantic
+in boisterous weather, laden as the two ships undoubtedly
+would have been if they had received no
+assistance from a third vessel in the conveyance of
+their stores.</p>
+
+<p>Through the kindness and generosity of our friends,
+and of those who more especially interested themselves
+in the progress of Arctic discovery, we received
+many useful and valuable gifts. Her Majesty and
+the members of the Royal Family testified, in a
+substantial manner, the deep interest they took in
+the enterprize. The name of her Imperial Majesty
+the Empress Eugénie must always be associated
+with the expedition as one of its warmest friends.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page7" id="page7"></a>7</span>
+Her kind and considerate present, consisting of a fine
+woollen cap for each individual, contributed materially
+to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous duties of
+sledging.</p>
+
+<p>To mention the names of all our generous benefactors
+would require a chapter to itself. Books,
+magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money came
+pouring in from all sides; but smaller and less
+valuable, though not the less appreciated, gifts were
+also received. A small case, with the superscription,
+&ldquo;A Christmas box for my friends on board the
+&lsquo;Alert,&rsquo;&rdquo; and containing four bottles of excellent
+punch, and a little parcel of well-thumbed books and
+periodicals, showing undoubted signs of having been
+well perused, but which came with the &ldquo;best wishes
+of a warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer,&rdquo;
+were accepted with as much pleasure and gratitude
+as were the more costly presents.</p>
+
+<p>Games of all descriptions, to while away the long
+evenings of a dark and monotonous winter, were
+purchased; whilst a complete set of instruments for
+a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list
+of our necessaries.</p>
+
+<p>In devoting a certain sum of money to the purchase
+of musical instruments and games, wherewithal to
+amuse ourselves, we were only following an example
+set us many years ago; for when Sir Humphrey
+Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering
+new lands, and planting Christian colonies upon
+those large and ample countries extending northward
+from Florida, we read that, &ldquo;for the solace of our
+people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided
+of musicke in good varietie; not omitting the
+least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby horses, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page8" id="page8"></a>8</span>
+many like conceits, to delight the savage people,
+whom we intended to winne by all faire meanes possible.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>We also hear, when that brave old navigator
+John Davis undertook his first voyage in 1585, with
+his two frail little barks, the &ldquo;Sunneshine&rdquo; and the
+&ldquo;Mooneshine,&rdquo; that in the first-named vessel were
+twenty-three persons, of whom four were musicians&mdash;a
+large band in proportion to the complement of
+officers and men.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the bustle and confusion that are inseparable
+from the preparation of such an expedition,
+in spite of fresh paint and tarry ropes, several
+thousands of visitors came on board before sailing,
+to the no small hindrance of the work; but it is
+feared that many others, owing to the stringent
+regulations that it was necessary to issue in order
+to have the vessels ready by the appointed time,
+were compelled to return to their homes without
+having the satisfaction of saying that they had been
+on board the Polar ships. Amongst those who
+honoured the vessels with a visit were his Royal
+Highness the Prince of Wales, his Royal Highness
+the Duke of Edinburgh, and her Imperial Majesty the
+Empress Eugénie.</p>
+
+<p>The entertainments given in our honour were very
+numerous; many were almost regarded as <i>farewell</i>
+banquets.</p>
+
+<p>We were looked upon as public property; our
+hospitable countrymen, in the generosity of their
+hearts, never thinking that we should like to spend our
+last few days in England in peace and quietness
+amongst our own friends, wished to feed us on the
+fat of the land, and send us to sea suffering from that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page9" id="page9"></a>9</span>
+worst of all complaints, dyspepsia, accompanied
+perhaps by <i>mal de mer</i>.</p>
+
+<p>At length all preparations were completed. The
+day originally assigned for the sailing of the expedition,
+the 29th of May, dawned grey and misty,
+with dashes of rain falling and lying in little pools on
+our freshly painted deck. During the forenoon we
+were honoured by a visit from the Lords Commissioners
+of the Admiralty, who came to bid us farewell and
+success on our mission. This was the last official
+visit paid to the vessels. At its termination officers
+and men were left pretty much to themselves, so that
+their last few hours in England might be spent with
+their own relatives. Four o&rsquo;clock in the afternoon
+was the hour named for the departure of the ships,
+and punctual to the very minute they cast off from
+the dockyard jetty. The last embrace had been
+taken, the last fervent farewell had been wished, and,
+a good omen for the coming voyage, as the vessels
+steamed out of Portsmouth Harbour, all clouds
+cleared away, and the sun shone out bright and
+joyous. During the day crowds had been flocking from
+all parts of England in order to add their voices to
+those of other well-wishers to the enterprize. Seldom
+before in that famous seaport town, although the
+centre of many stirring events, had such a scene been
+witnessed. Thousands of spectators were congregated
+along the sea-face extending from the dockyard to
+Southsea Castle, and on the opposite shore of Gosport,
+to witness our departure; and cheer after cheer
+pealed forth from the assembled multitude as we
+slowly threaded our way amongst the numerous yachts
+and pleasure boats that had collected to bid us Godspeed.
+A small thin line of red, hardly to be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page10" id="page10"></a>10</span>
+distinguished amidst the more sombre hue of the
+holiday seekers&rsquo; dresses, denoted the troops of the
+garrison drawn up to do honour to their comrades of
+the sister service, whilst their bands, breaking forth
+with the soul-stirring strains of &ldquo;Auld lang syne,&rdquo;
+found an echo in the hearts of all connected with the
+expedition.</p>
+
+<p>It was, indeed, a proud moment for us as we
+witnessed this unmistakeable demonstration, and felt
+that we, a small but chosen band, had been selected
+to carry out a national enterprize of such importance.</p>
+
+<p>If anything was required to assure us of the
+popularity of our undertaking, the spectacle that
+afternoon on Southsea Common was surely a convincing
+proof.</p>
+
+<p>There was but one responsive feeling in the hearts
+of every member of the expedition, namely, a determination
+to deserve this confidence, and to achieve,
+with God&rsquo;s help, such a measure of success as would
+prove satisfactory to the country and creditable to
+the navy.</p>
+
+<p>It will be long before that scene is effaced from our
+memories. Our last view of Portsmouth was across
+a bright blue sea to a shore thronged with an
+enthusiastic and cheering crowd waving a last
+farewell; whilst the last glimpse our friends had of
+us was across the same blue sparkling sea, the snow-white
+sails of our ships being lit up by the rays of the
+setting sun.</p>
+
+<p>Our feelings appeared to be reflected in the changes
+of the weather on that, to us, memorable day. The
+rain and mist in the morning were emblematical of
+the sorrow of parting; while when the sun burst
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page11" id="page11"></a>11</span>
+forth bright and joyous in the afternoon, we all felt
+assured that the work on which we were about to be
+employed would be achieved, and that the enterprize
+commenced under such bright auspices would terminate
+as well and happily.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing occurred to mar the departure; one
+incident only happened that might have terminated
+disastrously and thrown a gloom over the little
+squadron. Immediately after the pilot had been
+discharged, one of the men of the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; in the
+excitement and ardour of responding to the cheers
+with which we were on all sides greeted, lost his
+balance in the rigging and fell overboard. He was,
+however, quickly picked up and brought on board
+none the worse for his immersion, although the
+consternation excited by this mishap to a boatload of
+men and women, who happened to witness the
+accident, nearly resulted in fatal consequences. The
+half-drowned and thoroughly drenched man being
+restored to his shipmates, the squadron having been
+joined at Spithead by the &ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo; rounded the
+Nab-light vessel, and before a fine fresh north-easterly
+breeze spread their sails and steered down channel.</p>
+
+<p>For many hours, however, they were escorted by
+a little yacht containing the relatives of some few
+of the officers of the expedition, which following in
+their wake reluctantly parted only when all further
+communication was impracticable.</p>
+
+<p>This, and a visit we received on the following
+morning from the brave old admiral, the Commander-in-chief
+at Plymouth, when passing the port, was the
+last sight of friends we were destined to enjoy for
+many a long month.</p>
+
+<p>We all felt that we had bidden them a long farewell,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page12" id="page12"></a>12</span>
+and from thenceforth, as far as they were concerned,
+we could only live in the happy memories of the
+past, buoyed up by hopes and aspirations as to the
+future.</p>
+
+<p>Experiencing fine weather, the anchors were
+dropped on the third day in the snug little harbour
+of Berehaven, in Bantry Bay. The object of this
+visit was to obtain our last supply of fresh meat,
+and our last budget of letters from home. A farewell
+ramble on shore amongst green fields and picturesque
+little farmhouses, where we were regaled with delicious
+fresh milk, was also enjoyed, and a visit paid
+to some Druidical remains near the long straggling
+village of Castletown.</p>
+
+<p>And here, amongst the long green grass and by the
+side of clear rippling rivulets, we gathered the last
+flowers of spring that would gladden our eyes until
+after our return to our native shore. Carefully were
+these floral treasures hoarded until an opportunity
+offered of transmitting them to dear friends at home.
+It is related of one officer, who was so fortunate as to
+gather several sprigs of &ldquo;forget-me-not,&rdquo; and whose
+home ties were, perhaps, not so attractive as those of
+others, that he offered to barter small tufts of this
+precious little plant for a bottle of beer, or a pot of
+cocoa and milk, the two latter articles being excessively
+scarce on board the Arctic ships, and proportionately
+valuable.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2nd of June, the day following their arrival,
+the little squadron once more put to sea. From that
+date the receipt of all letters ceased. No more
+telegrams; no loving missives; all intelligence from
+home must come to an end. We could live only for
+the future, and pray for a happy and speedy return.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page13" id="page13"></a>13</span>
+Before nightfall the high and rugged coast of Ireland
+had sunk below the eastern horizon, leaving nothing
+visible on the apparently boundless ocean but our
+three ships as they were lazily rocked by the long
+rolling swell of the broad Atlantic.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;The vessel gently made her liquid way;</p>
+<p class="i05">The cloven billows flashed from off her prow,</p>
+<p class="i05">In furrows formed by that majestic plough;</p>
+<p class="i05">The waters with their world were all before.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page14" id="page14"></a>14</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER II.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Now from the sight of land, our galleys move;</p>
+<p class="i05">With only seas around, and skies above.</p>
+<p class="i05">When o&rsquo;er our heads descends a cloud of rain,</p>
+<p class="i05">And night with sable clouds involves the main,</p>
+<p class="i05">The ruffling winds the foaming billows raise,</p>
+<p class="i05">The scattered fleet is forced to several ways.</p>
+<p class="i05"> . . . . . . . And from our shrouds</p>
+<p class="i05">We view a rising land like distant clouds,</p>
+<p class="i05">The mountain tops confirm the pleasing sight.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Virgil.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> next morning we found that on leaving England
+we had also left behind bright sunshine and blue
+skies, and in their place gloomy grey clouds were
+spread over us, while rain fell sullenly through the
+murky air. This, with head winds, was our normal
+condition for many days. Steam was occasionally
+raised during any lengthened periods of calm; but
+the report from the engineer that steam was ready
+was, as a rule, followed by a report from deck that
+a breeze was springing up, but invariably from an
+adverse quarter.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of June, in order to expedite our
+movements, the &ldquo;Valorous&rdquo; received permission to
+ignore the presence of a senior officer and make the
+best of her way to Disco; the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; and &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo;
+continuing their course together.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page15" id="page15"></a>15</span></p>
+
+<p>We were not many days together at sea before we
+discovered the good qualities of our ship&rsquo;s company.
+There was a willingness about them that could not
+fail to be appreciated, whilst the thorough good
+feeling that seemed to exist was highly satisfactory.
+As a proof of the desire of each one to assist his
+neighbour, it may not be out of place to mention that
+the petty officers of the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; a day or two after
+leaving harbour, requested permission to take turns
+with the able seamen in steering the ship, a duty from
+which, by their position, they are usually exempt.
+It need hardly be said their wish was immediately
+gratified.</p>
+
+<p>During the passage our medical staff was busily
+engaged in ascertaining the physical capacities of
+every individual member of the expedition. These
+experiments were by some jokingly resented as an
+unauthorized system of mental and bodily torture.
+Every one&rsquo;s age was carefully noted; height and
+weight accurately ascertained; dimensions round the
+chest measured; and by means of an instrument
+called a spirometer the capacity of the chest was also
+obtained; a clinical thermometer was inserted into
+the mouth and kept there for an apparently interminable
+time for the purpose of ascertaining the
+temperature of the blood. The treatment we were
+subjected to in the cause of science was thus described
+by one whose acquaintance with the Royal Navy was
+only of a few days&rsquo; standing: &ldquo;I was unceremoniously
+laid hold of and measured, forced into a chair
+and weighed, was compelled to answer the most
+impertinent questions regarding my age and connections;
+a horrid instrument was kept in my mouth
+for an hour or more, and I was forced to blow into
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page16" id="page16"></a>16</span>
+a machine until not a breath of wind was left in my
+body!&rdquo; The results of all these experiments were
+duly registered, the intention being to compare them
+with a similar examination on the return of the
+expedition, in order to ascertain the effects of an
+Arctic life upon the physical development of our
+bodies.</p>
+
+<p>The appetites of the officers, rendered doubly keen
+by the fresh sea air, were so inordinate as to cause
+serious anxiety in the mind of our worthy caterer,
+who was fearful that the allowance of provisions
+would never last the specified time, at the rate they
+were then being consumed.</p>
+
+<p>From the fifth day after leaving port lime juice
+was regularly issued to every officer and man in the
+expedition. Being considered an indispensable antiscorbutic,
+it was essential that precautions should
+be adopted to ensure the certainty of each man drinking
+it daily. It was therefore the practice to serve it
+out on the quarter-deck every forenoon in the presence
+of an officer. This was never omitted during the
+whole period that our expedition was absent from
+England. With one or two exceptions the lime juice
+was drunk with pleasure by the men, and the exceptions
+were gradually educated, by taking it in small
+quantities, until their dislike was cured.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of the limited stowage capacity on
+board, the officers were unable to provide themselves
+with a large stock of beer. A considerable quantity
+of wine and spirits, however, was laid in; but as an
+anticipated absence of three years had to be provided
+for, we were restricted to an allowance of two glasses
+of sherry per diem, a glass of port or madeira once a
+week, and a bottle of brandy or whiskey about every
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page17" id="page17"></a>17</span>
+fourteen or fifteen days. On birthdays or fête days
+we were also indulged in a glass of port wine after
+dinner.</p>
+
+<p>Ten hogsheads of Allsopp&rsquo;s ale, brewed especially
+for the Arctic Expedition, were provided by Government
+and formed part of the ship&rsquo;s stores. It was
+grand stuff&mdash;&ldquo;strong enough,&rdquo; as one of the men
+observed, &ldquo;to make our hair curl!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>We were not destined to enjoy fine weather long,
+and our passage across the Atlantic was by no means
+a pleasant or a comfortable one. Gale followed after
+gale. If they had only blown from the right quarter
+we should have been happy, but we had no such luck,
+they were sure to come ahead!</p>
+
+<p>What a lively ship was the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;! making it
+utterly impossible to keep anything in its place. It
+was decidedly annoying, one day, when I entered my
+cabin to find my nice smart crimson table-cloth
+drenched with ink; but it was no use repining, and
+I could only exclaim, with Lord Dorset&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,</p>
+<p class="i05">Are tumbled up and down at sea.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Liveliness was not her only peculiarity, she was
+likewise excessively wet, and although battened down
+carefully it was impossible to keep the water from
+going below. To those who are uninitiated in nautical
+terms it must be explained that &ldquo;battening down&rdquo;
+means the careful closing and covering with a tarpaulin
+of every skylight and hatchway, in order to
+prevent the water from finding its way below. In
+spite, however, of these precautions, it is excessively
+difficult to keep the lower deck of a small ship dry
+during heavy weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page18" id="page18"></a>18</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 13th it was blowing furiously with a terrific
+sea, and we were compelled to &ldquo;lay-to&rdquo; under very
+reduced canvas. During the night a large steamer,
+supposed to be bound for Quebec, passed close to us,
+so close indeed that we were compelled to burn blue
+lights in order to denote our position, so as to avoid
+collision.</p>
+
+<p>On the same night a heavy sea struck us, and
+washed away our starboard whale boat. Our consort
+also suffered the same loss. Nearly all our fowls,
+which were in hen-coops on the upper deck, were
+drowned; only two escaping! Fresh meat being
+scarce the manner of their death did not prevent
+their appearance on our table for some days. This
+gale had the effect of dispersing our little squadron,
+nor did we again assemble together until our arrival
+at Disco.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner had we recovered from the effects of one
+gale, than we were assailed by another. Our only
+consolation was, the very poor one of trying to believe
+that these storms would eventually be the means of
+assisting us in our passage through Melville Bay, by
+breaking up the ice and blowing it out of Davis
+Straits!</p>
+
+<p>The discomforts entailed by the perpetual bad
+weather did not in any way check the ardour of some
+of the officers in their praiseworthy endeavours to add
+to the scientific collections of the expedition. It is
+related, but I will not vouch for the authenticity of
+the story, that on one occasion, when the ship was
+labouring heavily, a huge sea washed on board, finding
+its way down through the skylight into the ward-room,
+where it splashed about from side to side with
+every roll of the ship. An officer, a most zealous
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page19" id="page19"></a>19</span>
+and enthusiastic collector in all branches of natural
+history, being in bed at the time, thought that he
+detected by the dim light of a lantern some interesting,
+and perhaps unknown, specimens of zoology in
+the water. His landing net was immediately called
+into requisition, and, from his bed, he succeeded in
+fishing up some of these supposed wonderful organisms.
+The microscope was instantly produced
+for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of his find,
+when, to his great disappointment, he discovered they
+were simply grains of buckwheat&mdash;part of the stock
+that had been laid in for our unfortunate fowls!</p>
+
+<p>Our progress was tardy. On more than one
+occasion we were actually farther off Cape Farewell,
+the point of land we were striving to make, than on
+the day previous!</p>
+
+<p>As we approached Davis Straits, speculations were
+rife as to when and where we should meet our first
+ice. The greatest eagerness was shown by all on
+board to become acquainted with the enemy whose
+fastnesses we were preparing to attack and from
+which we hoped to return victorious.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th of June, being still at some distance to
+the southward of Cape Farewell, a vessel was sighted
+steering in the opposite direction to ourselves. We
+passed at too great a distance to avail ourselves of
+such a favourable opportunity of sending letters to
+England, though there were many on board who
+showed an intense anxiety to communicate. We
+suspected, and our reasoning proved correct, that
+this would be the last vessel we should see for many
+a long day, and she was consequently watched with
+a great deal of interest. She was, in all probability,
+a homeward bound Peterhead vessel laden with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page20" id="page20"></a>20</span>
+<i>cryolite</i>. The cryolite is a rare mineral and the sole
+one which has become an article of trade in Greenland.
+It is found only in one single spot called
+Ivigtut in 61° 10&prime; N., imbedded like a massive body
+in the granitic rock, and not in veins or strata. In
+1857 a licence was granted to a private company for
+working the cryolite, and in the first nine years
+14,000 tons were exported in 80 ship-loads. During
+the next nine years the total export amounted to
+70,000 tons. Cryolite is converted by a chemical
+process into soda and an alumina unequalled as
+regards purity and fitness for the art of dyeing.<a name="fa1b" id="fa1b" href="#ft1b"><span class="sp">1</span></a></p>
+
+<p>As we neared the waters of Davis Straits, whales
+were observed in great numbers. They were principally
+what are called by the whalers &ldquo;bottle-noses.&rdquo;
+This species of cetacean is the <i>Hyperoodon rostratus</i>,
+and is from twenty to twenty-six feet long, with teeth
+in the lower jaw. The &ldquo;bottle-noses&rdquo; are seldom
+sought and captured by the whalers owing to the
+small amount of oil that they yield, not more than a
+few hundred-weight of blubber being derived from
+each one of this species. A dead whale of the &ldquo;right&rdquo;
+or &ldquo;Greenland&rdquo; sort was also passed. What a prize
+for a whaler this would have been; worth about
+£1,000! but of no value whatever to us, so it was
+allowed to float by untouched. How the mouths of
+our ice quarter-masters, all hailing from those
+essentially whaling ports Dundee and Peterhead,
+watered as they beheld what by them would have
+undoubtedly been considered a god-send! The
+evident look of wonder, not unmixed with contempt,
+that showed itself upon their countenances was truly
+ludicrous when they found that we were about to pass
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page21" id="page21"></a>21</span>
+so valuable a prize unheeded. This fish&mdash;for all
+&ldquo;right&rdquo; whales (<i>Balæna mysticetus</i>) are denominated
+&ldquo;fish&rdquo; by those engaged in their capture&mdash;had
+probably been struck by some whaler and, having
+succeeded in evading its persecutors, had since died
+of its wounds; or else it had been killed by the
+inveterate enemy of the whale the <i>Orca gladiator</i>, or
+&ldquo;grampus,&rdquo; sometimes called &ldquo;sword-fish,&rdquo; which
+pursues and harasses these harmless unoffending
+leviathans of the deep whenever opportunities offer.
+The rorqual, or &ldquo;finner&rdquo; (<i>Physalus antiquorum</i>), was
+also seen; it is easily distinguished from the right
+whale by the dorsal fin peculiar to this cetacean, and
+from which it derives its name. The rorquals are
+seldom captured, great difficulty being experienced in
+killing these huge monsters, which are frequently
+known to measure as much as ninety feet in length.
+Scoresby mentions one measuring one hundred and
+twenty feet. Great as is their size, however, the
+amount of blubber to be obtained from them is very
+insignificant. They feed upon cod-fish (as many as
+eight or nine hundred have been found in the stomach
+of one of these whales) and are constantly seen off
+the south and west coast of Greenland.</p>
+
+<p>A falling temperature on the 27th of June, and
+a peculiar light blink along the horizon, gave us due
+notice of the immediate proximity of ice. As the
+weather was thick and foggy extra precautions were
+adopted in order to guard against coming into serious
+collision with any icebergs, for, however beautiful
+these floating islands of ice may be during bright
+clear weather, they are dangerous and formidable
+foes when near and unseen.</p>
+
+<p>True to the warning received, an iceberg was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page22" id="page22"></a>22</span>
+shortly afterwards sighted, and by 4 <span class="scs">P.M.</span> the ship
+was steaming through loose detached fragments of
+heavy floe ice.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to describe the excitement that
+prevailed on board on this first introduction of many
+among us to that icy world in which we afterwards
+lived for fifteen months. To me it gave rise to
+reminiscences of old times, but to the uninitiated it
+was an exciting scene, and was gazed upon with
+intense interest.</p>
+
+<p>The officer of the watch, desirous of having the
+honour of making the ship first touch ice, and being
+also under the impression that a reward of a bottle of
+champagne would be given to him who should first
+succeed in doing so, steered straight for a heavy piece
+nearly submerged. His efforts were crowned with
+success, but they were also accompanied by a gentle
+admonition that for the future he should be a little
+more careful of her Majesty&rsquo;s property, and avoid all
+such fragments as were likely to knock a hole in the
+bows of the ship.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning we sighted the high,
+bold, and snow-capped hills in the neighbourhood of
+Cape Desolation. This headland was so called by
+that sturdy navigator, brave old John Davis, during
+his first voyage of discovery in the year 1585. In
+his quaint manner he describes &ldquo;the land being very
+high and full of mightie mountaines all covered with
+snowe, no viewe of wood, grasse, or earth to be seene,
+and the shore for two leages into the sea so full of
+yce as that no shipping cold by any meanes come
+neere the same. The lothsome viewe of the shore,
+and irksome noyse of the yce was such as that it bred
+strange conceipts among us, so that we supposed the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page23" id="page23"></a>23</span>
+place to be wast and voyd of any sencible or vegitable
+creatures, whereupon I called the same Desolation.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Icebergs were now constantly seen, some being of
+very considerable dimensions, and looming in the
+distance like real islands. As one of our men wittily
+remarked on seeing his first iceberg, it reminded him
+strongly of the Isle of Wight (white)!!</p>
+
+<p>The streams of ice through which the vessel was
+navigated were composed of fragments of heavy pack
+ice, that had in all probability drifted down the east
+coast of Greenland, and had been swept round Cape
+Farewell. They were of very deep flotation, and
+great care had to be taken in steering the ship
+through, so as to avoid striking these pieces more
+than was absolutely necessary; so heavily laden was
+the ship, that the force of the blows in some instances
+was very seriously felt.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:761px; height:374px" src="images/img45.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Seals were seen basking lazily and dreamily on the
+ice, or following in our wake, staring inquisitively at
+us with their large round eyes, looking for all the
+world like human beings. The fabulous merman and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page24" id="page24"></a>24</span>
+mermaiden seemed to us easily accounted for. The
+seals observed were of two descriptions&mdash;namely, the
+<i>Pagomys f&oelig;tidus</i>, or &ldquo;floe-rat;&rdquo; and the <i>Pagophilus
+Gr&oelig;nlandicus</i>, the &ldquo;saddle-back,&rdquo; or common Greenland
+seal.</p>
+
+<p>Birds, common to these regions, hovered around,
+following us for days together and breaking the solitude
+that surrounded us with their joyous and gladsome
+presence.</p>
+
+<p>The 1st of July was a beautiful, bright, clear,
+sunny day, and to us was doubly welcome after the
+continuous bad weather which until now had been
+our lot. Not a ripple disturbed the calm surface of
+the sea as it lay blue and gleaming in the sunshine.
+Here and there a few small patches of ice reminded
+us of our proximity to the Arctic circle, while a
+certain sharp-bracing crispness in the air, together
+with a rather low temperature, served to assure us
+that the high snow-covered land in the distance was
+in reality &ldquo;Greenland&rsquo;s icy mountains&rdquo;&mdash;no hymnal
+myth as supposed by many, but grand ranges, devoid
+of all verdure, wrapped in their snowy mantle, and
+rising to an altitude of from two to three thousand
+feet above the level of the sea, a majestic and sublime
+reality.</p>
+
+<p>By noon we were off the little Danish settlement
+of Fiskernaes, and shortly afterwards passed that of
+Godthaab, but at too great a distance to make out
+the buildings or any signs of inhabitants. It was
+at Godthaab that Hans Egede landed on July 3rd,
+1721, with his wife and children, and commenced
+his noble and disinterested labour of love among the
+Eskimos. The missionary institutions founded by
+Hans Egede and the Moravians have gradually incorporated
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page25" id="page25"></a>25</span>
+the whole population of Greenland into
+Christian communities.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of this part of the coast of Greenland
+was very striking, especially to those who were
+strangers to Arctic scenery. The mountains, with
+their peaks so pointed as scarcely to admit of the
+snow resting on their steep and almost precipitous
+sides, intersected by grand fiords and gorges penetrating
+for miles into the interior, formed a magnificent
+landscape.</p>
+
+<p>To the great relief and joy of all, we were on this
+day rejoined by our consort the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; who,
+like ourselves, had been roughly handled by the
+tempestuous weather since we lost sight of her in
+the Atlantic.</p>
+
+<p>Expecting to pass over the &ldquo;Torske&rdquo; banks, the
+dredge was prepared, and fishing lines served out;
+every one busy stretching and fitting their lines, and
+smacking their lips over an anticipated dinner of
+fresh cod and halibut. Soundings in thirty fathoms
+having been obtained on one of these banks, the ship
+was stopped and permission given to fish. Immediately
+fifty or sixty fishing lines were over the side;
+but, although our eager fishermen persevered for a
+couple of hours, no capture rewarded their patience.
+The &ldquo;wily cod&rdquo; remained sullen at the bottom, and
+could not even be induced to &ldquo;nibble.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The dredge was also put over, and hauled in with
+unimportant results, only a few echinoderms being
+obtained.</p>
+
+<p>During the night an iceberg of curious shape was
+passed. When first seen it was reported as a sail;
+on approaching it a little nearer it assumed the appearance
+of a huge column-shaped basaltic rock, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page26" id="page26"></a>26</span>
+then that of a lighthouse; for some time it was really
+believed to be the former.</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th of July the Arctic circle was crossed.
+From this date, for some weeks, we were to have
+continuous day. The nights had for some time past
+been getting gradually shorter: now they had ceased
+altogether&mdash;candles and lamps were no longer necessary,
+bright sunlight reigned paramount.</p>
+
+<p>Two days afterwards the expedition was safely
+anchored in the bay of Lievely, off the little Danish
+settlement of Godhavn. Although small, it is the
+most important establishment in the Inspectorate of
+North Greenland, for here resides the Royal Inspector,
+who controls, with absolute authority, the large mixed
+population of Danes and Eskimos who inhabit this
+the most northern civilized land in the world.</p>
+
+<p>A salute of nine guns, from a small battery of three
+diminutive specimens of ordnance, welcomed our
+arrival, the smoke from which had scarcely blown
+away before Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, came
+on board, anxious to offer assistance, and desirous
+of extending the hospitalities of his house to the
+members of the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could be more kind than the reception
+accorded us by the inhabitants of this little settlement.
+Their sole desire was to please and aid us in
+every way, and we were soon firm and fast friends
+with the innocent and simple-minded residents.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1b" id="ft1b" href="#fa1b"><span class="fn">1</span></a> See Dr. Rink&rsquo;s &ldquo;Greenland,&rdquo; p. 79.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page27" id="page27"></a>27</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER III.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Behold I see the haven nigh at hand,</p>
+<p class="i05">To which I meane my wearie course to bend;</p>
+<p class="i05">Vere the maine shete and beare up with the land,</p>
+<p class="i05">The which afore is fayrly to be kend,</p>
+<p class="i05">And seemeth safe from stormes that may offend.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Spenser.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">It</span> was with a very pleasing sensation of relief that we
+found the ship once more at rest, after thirty-four
+days of such knocking about as is seldom experienced
+at sea for so long a time without a break. The
+rolling and pitching to which a small ship is subjected
+in a heavy sea are never altogether agreeable,
+and the quiet and repose of a snug well-protected
+harbour are welcomed even by the &ldquo;veriest old sea-dog.&rdquo;
+But, although free from the turmoil of the
+&ldquo;angry waste of waters,&rdquo; our short stay at Godhavn
+can scarcely be called a period of rest. Much had to
+be done, coals had to be taken on board, and a nondescript
+quantity of stores and provisions received
+from the &ldquo;Valorous&rdquo; and stowed away.</p>
+
+<p>The days were long, however. We had arrived in
+the region where the midnight sun shone almost as
+brightly and gave as much light as at noonday; and
+if, in consequence, the men were kept longer at work
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page28" id="page28"></a>28</span>
+than they otherwise would have been, they felt themselves
+amply compensated for their extra labour by
+the indulgence of a run on shore in the evening, and
+an open-air dance with the dusky and light-hearted
+beauties of the land.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:776px; height:636px" src="images/img50.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">ESKIMO WOMEN.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Never did the deck of a man-of-war present such an
+untidy and confused appearance as ours did after
+receiving the last cask from the &ldquo;Valorous.&rdquo; Casks
+and cases lay higgledy-piggledy amongst coals and
+ropes. Such a scene as our upper deck presented
+would have been sufficient to drive a smart first
+lieutenant distracted. We were, however, all much
+too practical to think of appearances, our sole thought
+was to be provided with enough of everything to guard
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page29" id="page29"></a>29</span>
+against all accidents. Between decks was a repetition
+of the scene above, and it was with the greatest
+difficulty we could move from one part of the ship to
+the other. To add to the pleasing state of the vessel
+twenty-four Eskimo dogs&mdash;the number was afterwards
+augmented to thirty&mdash;were received on board, to be
+used in our sledging operations. Such a howling lot!
+No sooner did they arrive than a regular battle
+ensued, and we were compelled for some days to tie
+up a few of the most pugnacious, in order to secure
+anything like peace.</p>
+
+<p>This state of affairs, namely, the incessant fighting
+and squabbling amongst the dogs, continued until one
+had gained the acknowledged supremacy by thrashing
+the whole pack. This happens in all well-regulated
+dog communities. The conqueror is henceforth styled
+the &ldquo;king&rdquo; dog; he rules his subjects with despotic
+sway, frequently settling a quarrel between a couple
+of pugilistic disputants, reserving for himself the best
+of everything in the shape of food, the other dogs
+yielding their tit-bits with cringing servility, exerting
+a complete mastery over his canine subjects, and
+exacting from them the most abject homage. The
+dogs were kept as much as possible in the fore part of
+the ship, and soon became great favourites with the
+men.</p>
+
+<p>To take charge of this unruly pack, we obtained
+the services, through the kindness and assistance of
+Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, of a native Eskimo,
+who with his gun and kayak was duly installed on
+board in the capacity of dog-driver and interpreter.
+He rejoiced in the name of Frederic, and had the
+reputation of being a keen and successful hunter.
+Although he could not boast of good looks, his bright
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page30" id="page30"></a>30</span>
+cheerful face and unvarying good temper soon made
+him a friend to all on board.</p>
+
+<p>The novelty of a never-ending day, for the first
+time experienced by so many in the expedition, sadly
+interfered with the natural time for rest and sleep.
+Long past midnight would the sounds of music and
+mirth be heard from the shore, as the dances were
+kept up with unabated vigour; while shrieks of
+laughter and merriment would be heard afloat, as
+the officers, indulging in aquatic tastes, would be seen
+rowing races in small collapsible boats, or trying
+their skill for the first time in the frail kayak. For
+the management of these latter fairy-like canoes great
+caution is required&mdash;indeed, it is hardly possible to
+manage them without much practice.</p>
+
+<p>Our first lieutenant was, however, an exception to
+this rule, for owing to experience acquired in canoes in
+various parts of the world, he succeeded in the management
+of the kayak so admirably as to excite the
+surprise and admiration of the natives. W&mdash;&mdash;,
+another of our officers, not to be outdone by his mess-mate,
+also tried his skill in one of these little barks,
+but he had not paddled many yards before it capsized,
+leaving him head down in the water, with his legs
+firmly jammed in the boat. He would undoubtedly
+have been drowned before assistance could arrive had
+he not shown a wonderful degree of presence of mind.
+So securely was he fixed in his kayak, that it was
+only by unbuttoning his braces and getting out of his
+trousers that he succeeded in extricating himself from
+his dangerous predicament, leaving that article of
+dress inside the kayak!</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the multifarious duties connected with
+the ship, which kept every one fully occupied, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page31" id="page31"></a>31</span>
+pursuit of science was not neglected. Several complete
+series of observations were obtained for the
+determination of the magnetic force. Photographs
+were taken, and geological and botanical collections
+were extensively made, whilst a boat with the first
+lieutenant and our energetic naturalist proceeded some
+little distance up the coast to a place called Ovifak
+for the purpose of obtaining information regarding
+some &ldquo;meteorites&rdquo; reported to have fallen there.</p>
+
+<p>The desire of &ldquo;stretching one&rsquo;s legs&rdquo; after being
+cooped up on board ship for so long was universally
+felt, and officers and men alike enjoyed a scramble
+over the lofty volcanic cliffs which overlie the gneiss
+in this part of the island of Disco.</p>
+
+<p>The difficulty of the ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld,
+a range of hills about two thousand feet in height,
+situated on the northern side of the harbour, was
+amply compensated for by the view from its summit.
+Landing in a pretty little bay, in which lay the
+remains of an old steam whaler, the &ldquo;Wildfire,&rdquo; that
+had fallen a victim to the ice some years ago, and
+emerging from the rather dense, though stunted,
+vegetation that grows luxuriantly at the base of these
+hills, the way led over precipitous basaltic cliffs, until
+by dint of hard climbing the snow-clad heights were
+reached.</p>
+
+<p>The accomplishment of this task, however, was
+both arduous and perilous, in consequence of the
+action of the frost on the rocks of which the cliffs
+were composed; for on the slightest touch they often
+crumbled away, rolling with a mass of <i>débris</i> many
+hundreds of feet to the bottom.</p>
+
+<p>From the summit a glorious scene was revealed
+to us. The mainland of Greenland, that land so
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page32" id="page32"></a>32</span>
+&ldquo;wonderfull mountaynous, whose mountaynes all the
+yeare long are full of yce and snowe,&rdquo; was distinctly
+brought to our view, whilst immediately at our feet
+was the picturesque settlement of Godhavn, and the
+three vessels, resembling miniature toy-ships, lying
+at anchor in its snug little harbour. The Whale-fish
+Islands, a group in Disco Bay, lay spread out as it
+were on a map. Hundreds of icebergs dotted the
+perfectly placid sea, and beyond them we could plainly
+discern the great ice fiord of Jacobshavn with its
+gigantic discharging glacier behind, and the mouth
+of its fiord almost choked with huge fragments of ice,
+children of that same glacier. At brief intervals a
+noise as of thunder or distant artillery announced the
+disruption, or creation, of one of these wonderful
+islands of ice.</p>
+
+<p>We were not, however, allowed to enjoy this glorious
+scene in quietness. Our pleasure was marred by the
+attacks of swarms of musquitoes. These irritating
+insects assailed us on first landing, and persecuted us
+incessantly until we were again afloat.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;A cloud of cumbrous gnattes doe us molest,</p>
+<p class="i05">All striving to infixe their feeble stinges,</p>
+<p class="i05">That from their noyance we nowhere can reste.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>It was indeed hard to meet so far in the icy north
+our implacable enemies of the tropics!</p>
+
+<p>The descent was as dangerous, though perhaps not
+so laborious as the ascent. Occasionally we were
+able to avail ourselves of patches of snow, down which
+we slid, much to the astonishment and discomfiture of
+my dog Nellie, who was at a loss to understand the
+means of our rapid progress, and who rushed down
+after us barking frantically.</p>
+
+<p>We were excessively fortunate in our weather during
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page33" id="page33"></a>33</span>
+our brief stay at Godhavn. We rejoiced in ceaseless
+sunshine, which lit up the surrounding hills with a
+golden light, throwing deep dark shadows into the
+valleys and ravines by which they were intersected,
+whilst the bright rays of the sun glittering on the ice-strewn
+surface of the sea formed a scene at once
+novel and sublime.</p>
+
+<p>Our short stay at Godhavn will, I think, always be
+regarded with pleasure by the members of the expedition.
+Nothing could exceed the kindness we received
+and the hospitality that was extended to us by the
+good people on shore, who appeared to vie with each
+other in their endeavours to render our visit an agreeable
+one. Nor was it only from the inhabitants that
+we received so much kindness. The captain, officers,
+and indeed I may say the ship&rsquo;s company of the
+&ldquo;Valorous&rdquo; were unremitting in their exertions to
+provide us with every necessary that it was in their
+power to supply, for the furtherance of the arduous
+service in which we were so soon to be engaged,
+depriving themselves of many things that they thought
+would add to our comfort.</p>
+
+<p>Although the Eskimos, according to Dr. Rink, and
+we can have no better authority respecting the natives
+of Greenland, have a pretty fair talent for writing and
+drawing, scarcely any traces of sculpture belonging to
+earlier times remain, with the exception of a few small
+images cut out in wood or bone, which had probably
+served children as playthings. Notwithstanding the
+want of means for handing down to posterity and retaining
+historical events amongst this interesting
+people, many traditions and legends have been preserved.
+Among the number is one relating to this
+island of Disco. It was supposed to have been situated
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page34" id="page34"></a>34</span>
+off the southern coast of Greenland, and in consequence
+of its cutting off the inhabitants of the mainland
+from the open sea, a great dislike was entertained
+for it; for, to live comfortably, an Eskimo must be in
+the vicinity of the sea, so as to follow his usual avocation
+of seal hunting.</p>
+
+<p>The story relates that two old men, having set their
+wise heads together, determined to attempt the
+removal of the island with the aid of magic. A third
+old gentleman, however, desired to retain it in its position.
+The first two, launching their kayaks, fastened
+the hair of a little child to the island wherewith to tow
+it by; whilst the other, from the shore, attempted to
+keep it back by means of a sealskin thong. Desperately
+did the two kayakers labour at their paddles
+in their endeavours to move the island, chanting their
+spells as they tugged at the hair. But as resolutely
+did the third man hold on to his thong, straining
+every nerve to render their exertions abortive; suddenly,
+to his chagrin, the thong parted, and the island floated
+off, and was towed away triumphantly to the northward,
+where it was deposited in its present position.</p>
+
+<p>Another tradition says it was removed from Baal&rsquo;s
+River to its present site by a famous angekok, or
+magician, and that the harbour of Godhavn is the
+actual hole in the island to which the tow rope was
+fastened.</p>
+
+<p>On the afternoon of July the 15th, amidst much
+firing of guns and dipping of flags, the little squadron
+steamed out of the harbour, threading its way through
+innumerable icebergs, and passing along the high
+snow-clad hills that adorn the southern end of the
+island of Disco, proceeded towards the settlement of
+Ritenbenk, at which we arrived the following morning.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page35" id="page35"></a>35</span>
+The scenery as we approached the anchorage was
+truly magnificent. Lofty hills encompassed us on
+either hand, down whose steep sides the water was
+pouring in rapid cascades, produced by the thawing of
+the snow on their summits. How full of life and joy
+appeared these bright sparkling streams as they
+seemed to chase each other in wanton sport, skipping
+from rock to crag in their headlong career, until lost
+in one large sheet of glistening spray that poured
+over the edge of a precipitous cliff into the clear still
+water at its base!</p>
+
+<p>Thousands of birds congregate along the inaccessible
+ledges of these cliffs, perched in such precise order,
+and having such a uniformity of colour, that they
+resemble regiments of soldiers drawn up in readiness
+to defend their fortresses from the attacks of ruthless
+invaders. But fresh food was at a premium, and the
+wretched looms were doomed to suffer a long assault
+at the hands of our energetic sportsmen.</p>
+
+<p>Other and more weighty matters also required our
+attention. We were to bid farewell to the &ldquo;Valorous&rdquo;
+on the following morning. And with her we should
+lose the last connecting link with home.</p>
+
+<p>Letters had to be hurriedly finished, and then we
+had to bid adieu to one to whose untiring energy the
+departure of the expedition was due, who had been
+mainly instrumental in obtaining the sanction of
+Government for its dispatch, and who, leaving the
+comforts of a home life, had accompanied us thus far
+on our journey, sharing our discomforts, but adding to
+our knowledge from his rich fund of information, and
+enlivening our mess-table with his conversation and
+presence.</p>
+
+<p>We felt, whilst he was on board, that we were not
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page36" id="page36"></a>36</span>
+quite separated from the civilized world. His departure
+made a chasm that it was difficult for some time
+to bridge over, but the memory of him lived long
+amongst us, and served to recall many a pleasant and
+happy hour.</p>
+
+<p>At four o&rsquo;clock on the morning of the 17th the
+&ldquo;Valorous&rdquo; steamed away from us on her way to the
+coal quarries on the north side of the island of Disco,
+and, two hours after, the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; and ourselves
+put to sea, having increased the number of our dogs
+by purchasing several from the natives at Ritenbenk.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery in the Waigat, a strait separating the
+island of Disco from the mainland of Greenland, is
+very grand. The channel was rendered almost impassable
+from the number of icebergs of every fantastic
+form and shape that lay scattered about, and which,
+although adding materially to the beauty of the scene,
+made the passage one of no little intricacy: indeed we
+very narrowly escaped losing all our boats on one
+side of the ship by shaving a large iceberg a little too
+closely!</p>
+
+<p>On one side were the high snow-clad hills of Disco,
+intersected by deep and narrow ravines, whilst on the
+opposite side was a bold and lofty coast with precipitous
+headlands ending in needle-shaped peaks and
+separated by glaciers and fiords. Passing the beautiful
+large discharging glacier of Itivdliarsuk, many
+minor ones opened to our view as we sailed slowly
+past, presenting a panorama such as it would be
+impossible to depict faithfully on canvas.</p>
+
+<p>Several remarkable red patches, apparently of
+basalt, were observed on the bare gneiss hills in the
+vicinity of Point Kardluk, which is noted for the
+large quantity of vegetable fossils that have been
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page37" id="page37"></a>37</span>
+found there, and close to the petrified forest of Atanekerdluk.</p>
+
+<p>Catching sight of the &ldquo;Valorous&rdquo; at anchor, busily
+engaged in procuring coal, we endeavoured to reach
+her, for the purpose of sending a few stray letters that
+had been inadvertently left behind; but a thick fog
+overtaking us, we were very reluctantly compelled to
+relinquish all idea of communicating, and had to be
+satisfied with reading the signal of &ldquo;farewell&rdquo; and
+&ldquo;good wishes&rdquo; that she threw out. It was fortunately
+distinguished before the vessels were effectually concealed
+from each other by an impervious fog which
+crept over the surface of the sea, hiding everything
+around us, though high above our heads the mountain
+tops were clearly to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>So dense did it become that we were, after a time,
+obliged to make the ships fast to icebergs to await a
+more favourable opportunity of advancing.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst attempting to secure the ships an alarming
+catastrophe occurred. The boat had been dispatched
+containing three men with the necessary implements,
+such as an ice drill and anchor, for making the vessel
+fast.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivered
+the berg, to our horror, split in two with a loud
+report, one half with one of our men on it toppling
+completely over, whilst the other half swayed rapidly
+backwards and forwards. On this latter piece was
+another of our men, who was observed with his heels
+in the air, the violent agitation of the berg having
+precipitated him head foremost into a rent or crevasse.
+The water alongside was a mass of seething foam and
+spray; but curious to relate, the boat with the third
+man in it was in no way injured. They were all
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page38" id="page38"></a>38</span>
+speedily rescued from their perilous position and
+brought on board, sustaining no further harm than
+that inflicted by a cold bath. Their escape appeared
+miraculous.</p>
+
+<p>By the next morning we were through the Waigat
+Strait. Much to our disappointment the weather
+remained thick, and we were in consequence unable
+to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand
+scenery to be found at the mouth of the Omenak
+fiord, which possesses some of the largest discharging
+glaciers in Greenland.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an
+anchor off the Danish settlement of Proven.</p>
+
+<p>The harbour, which is small, is formed by two
+islands. On the western side of the easternmost of
+the two is situated the quaintest of quaint little
+settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the
+Governor&rsquo;s residence, the storehouse, boiling down
+establishment, smithy, about two other wooden habitations,
+and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it
+boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The
+Governor, who, in his endeavour to be civil, had
+boarded us before anchoring, apologized for not
+saluting, saying &ldquo;that though he had the guns he
+had no artillerists.&rdquo; Although it was midnight before
+we arrived, the inhabitants were lining the side of the
+hill as we entered, the white boots and fur jackets and
+short trousers of the women affording a very novel
+though picturesque scene.</p>
+
+<p>The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being
+disturbed in their slumbers, set up a fearful howling,
+which, being answered by the dogs in both ships,
+produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert.
+The natives have a saying, when the dogs make this
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page39" id="page39"></a>39</span>
+noise, &ldquo;that they are holding their parliament.&rdquo;
+This is hardly flattering to the Greenland senate!</p>
+
+<p>During our short stay at this place a rough survey
+of the harbour was taken, and a number of scientific
+observations were made.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the
+reception met with from all on shore. In the
+Governor&rsquo;s good wife I recognized an old acquaintance
+whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a
+former occasion during a cruise in a whaler to these
+regions.</p>
+
+<p>Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of
+Hans Hendrik, an Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter.
+This man had been employed in the same capacity in
+all the American expeditions to Smith&rsquo;s Sound, and
+was an invaluable acquisition.</p>
+
+<p>Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during
+our stay, dancing to their hearts&rsquo; content.</p>
+
+<p>My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of
+admiration amongst the inhabitants, one man especially
+being very pertinacious in his request that she
+might be presented to him. On inquiring to what
+use he would put her, I was informed that my faithful
+companion would be converted into food for the man&rsquo;s
+oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black curly coat
+would serve to adorn his wife&rsquo;s person. Nellie, I
+think, had some notion of the designs on her life and
+skin, as in future she always regarded with disfavour
+not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their dogs
+and everything belonging to them.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Proven on the evening of the 21st of July,
+we arrived on the same night off a remarkable headland
+called &ldquo;Sanderson, his hope.&rdquo; It was so named
+by old John Davis, after his friend and patron, Mr.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page40" id="page40"></a>40</span>
+W. Sanderson, in 1587, and was the extreme northern
+point reached by him during his third voyage.<a name="fa1c" id="fa1c" href="#ft1c"><span class="sp">1</span></a></p>
+
+<p>This prominent and precipitous cliff is a famous
+place for looms, as those white-breasted guillemots
+are termed, which are considered such rare delicacies
+on an Arctic table. They are the <i>Uria Brunnichii</i> of
+naturalists, and are numerous in sub-Arctic regions.
+Their favourite breeding-places are along these terraced
+cliffs, where they assemble in large quantities.</p>
+
+<p>Of course so favourable an opportunity of procuring
+fresh food was not to be disregarded. The ships were
+hove to, and the boats, crammed with eager sportsmen,
+dispatched for the purpose of shooting for the
+&ldquo;pot.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Myriads of these birds were congregated along the
+face of the steep precipitous cliffs, in some places
+almost overhanging, which rose abruptly to an altitude
+of about a thousand feet. Owing, however, to the
+unsteadiness of the boats, caused by the roughness of
+the sea, our &ldquo;bag&rdquo; did not realize our anticipations.
+Many of the birds that were shot remained on the
+inaccessible ledges of the rocks, and were therefore lost
+to us; and many fell into the sea beyond, and were
+no more seen.</p>
+
+<p>The midnight sun was shining brightly during this
+<i>battue</i>, and we returned to the ship, after a couple of
+hours&rsquo; sport, the richer by one hundred and seventy
+birds, each equal in weight to a fair-sized duck. For
+the succeeding three or four days we revelled in
+&ldquo;loom soup,&rdquo; &ldquo;loom pie,&rdquo; or &ldquo;roast loom,&rdquo; and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page41" id="page41"></a>41</span>
+looms cooked in every imaginable form. No matter
+how they were served up, they were always pronounced
+to be delicious. Indeed, one of my messmates
+went so far as to say that he had never tasted
+anything better in his life. In fact, for the purpose
+of thoroughly enjoying a good dinner, a trip to the
+Arctic regions is indispensable!</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning we anchored off Upernivik,<a name="fa2c" id="fa2c" href="#ft2c"><span class="sp">2</span></a>
+the most northern settlement but one in
+Greenland. It is situated on one of the Woman
+Islands, so named by Baffin in 1616. The usual
+kindness and hospitality were extended to us here, as
+at all the other Danish settlements visited. We also
+received important information concerning the state of
+the ice to the northward, with a tabulated statement
+of all the meteorological observations obtained during
+the previous winter, a study of which would be of the
+greatest importance to us.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, taking the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; in tow, we
+again put to sea, this time finally bidding farewell to
+civilization. From henceforth our energies and our
+thoughts must turn Polewards.</p>
+
+<p>As the last glimpse of the little church was shut
+out from our view, many a prayer was silently offered
+to Him in his infinite mercy to protect and guide us
+in our endeavours, and to vouchsafe us a safe return
+again to home and civilization.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1c" id="ft1c" href="#fa1c"><span class="fn">1</span></a> On his return to England he wrote to his friend, saying, &ldquo;I have
+been in 73°, finding the sea all open and forty leagues between land
+and land. The passage (the N.W.) is most probable, the execution
+easie, as at my coming you shall fully knowe.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2c" id="ft2c" href="#fa2c"><span class="fn">2</span></a> It is sometimes spelt Uppernavik. But Upernivik is the correct
+form. See Rink, p. 354. It means spring in the Eskimo language.
+Upernivik is in 72° 48&prime; N. The most northern Danish station is
+Tasiusak, in 73° 24&prime; N.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page42" id="page42"></a>42</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER IV.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Embark with me, while I new tracts explore,</p>
+<p class="i05">With flying sails and breezes from the shore.</p>
+<p class="i05">Not that my song, in such a scanty space,</p>
+<p class="i05">So large a subject fully can embrace.</p>
+<p class="i05">Not though I were supplied with iron lungs,</p>
+<p class="i05">A hundred mouths, filled with as many tongues.</p>
+<p class="i05">But steer my vessel with a steady hand,</p>
+<p class="i05">And coast along the shore in sight of land.</p>
+<p class="i05">Nor will I try thy patience with a train</p>
+<p class="i05">Of preface, or what ancient poets feign.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Virgil.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Threading</span> our way through narrow passages between
+numerous islands that lay to the eastward of Upernivik,
+and trusting to the knowledge and guidance of
+an Eskimo pilot, we felt at length that we had in
+reality, seen the last for some time, of our fellow men,
+and that our struggle with the almost insuperable
+difficulties of the frozen north was about to commence.</p>
+
+<p>Preparations for an unsuccessful combat with the
+ice were made, and every precaution was adopted
+necessary to ensure the safety of the men, in cases of
+extreme emergency. The boats were prepared for
+immediate service, each man having his allotted
+station, so that little or no confusion would ensue if
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page43" id="page43"></a>43</span>
+the abandonment of the ships should be decided upon&mdash;an
+event that was by no means improbable. Ice-saw
+crews were organized in readiness for cutting a dock,
+in case such a proceeding should become necessary
+for the protection of the vessels. Provisions and
+clothes were so arranged along the upper deck that
+they could easily and readily be thrown out on the ice
+at a moment&rsquo;s notice. Knapsacks, each containing
+two pairs of blanket wrappers, one pair of hose, one
+pair of stockings, one pair of mitts, one pair of
+drawers, a Welsh wig, a jersey, a comforter, a pair of
+moccasins, a towel and small piece of soap, were
+packed and placed in some handy position where they
+could be reached without delay. The necessary
+tackles for lifting the screw and unshipping the rudder
+were provided: in fact every preparation was made
+that could possibly be thought of to guard against
+accidents and to promote success in the forthcoming
+conflict.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning after leaving Upernivik, on account
+of a dense fog, it was determined to anchor off one
+of the small islands composing a group through
+which we were passing, in order to wait for finer
+weather.</p>
+
+<p>Our pilot, getting into his kayak, offered to pioneer
+us into a little bay with which he was intimately
+acquainted. Being totally unable to realize the
+difference of size between the large unwieldy &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;
+and his own frail little bark, and probably imagining
+that where he was able to go in his tiny boat, we also
+could do the same, he led us close in to the land,
+which, on account of the thick fog, was hidden from
+our view, and we soon had the annoyance of finding
+our ship hard and fast on shore. Fortunately we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page44" id="page44"></a>44</span>
+were going very slow at the time, so that no injury
+was sustained; but we remained immoveable for
+many hours until the flood-tide floated us and enabled
+us once more to proceed.</p>
+
+<p>The dangers connected with a passage through
+Melville Bay are now so well known to all who have
+taken any interest in Arctic affairs, or who have devoted
+any time to the perusal of Arctic literature, that it is
+needless for me either to explain or dwell upon them
+at any length. Many a well-equipped ship has been
+caught in the fatal embrace of this bay. What tales
+of woe and disaster could its icy waters unfold,
+coupled, however, with deeds of heroic daring, endurance,
+and suffering!</p>
+
+<p>Captain Nares, determining to avoid the ordinary
+passage through this once dreaded bay, the dangers
+of which in these days of steam have been so
+materially lessened, pushed his ships boldly through
+what is generally termed the &ldquo;middle ice.&rdquo; This, at
+such a late season of the year, is undoubtedly a wise
+course; but woe to the unfortunate ship that at an
+earlier period should be caught in this moving pack,
+and be there detained for thirteen or fourteen months,
+as the little &ldquo;Fox&rdquo; was, under the command of Sir
+Leopold McClintock!</p>
+
+<p>If the pack is composed of loose light ice, such as
+we found it to be, rendering a passage through it one
+of no difficulty, it may also be presumed that the ice
+in Melville Bay at the same time would be of the
+same consistency, thereby also affording an easy and
+safe passage through.</p>
+
+<p>The reason that the passage by Melville Bay is
+always taken by the whalers is the existence of fixed
+land ice, which is found adhering to the shores, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page45" id="page45"></a>45</span>
+in which it is easy to cut a dock for the preservation
+of the ship if the heavy pack is forced by wind, or
+otherwise, towards it, thereby endangering any vessel
+that may happen to be between the two. Directly
+the pack moves off the vessel is liberated and proceeds
+on her voyage.</p>
+
+<p>It would be very different if the ship was caught in
+the pack. Then she would, in all probability, be
+severely handled, and being beset would drift to the
+southward with the ice and thereby lose all the
+hard-fought ground gained with so much labour and
+fatigue.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most important maxims in ice navigation,
+which is strictly followed out by the whalers, is
+&ldquo;stick to the land-ice.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>We were certainly extremely fortunate in finding
+the pack so &ldquo;loose&rdquo; as to give us little trouble or
+difficulty in making progress. The ice was of a soft
+&ldquo;brashy&rdquo; nature, apparently only of one year&rsquo;s
+formation, and only from one to three feet in thickness.
+The weather being fine and calm, advantage
+was taken of it to steam full speed, for there was no
+saying how quickly the ice might pack with even a
+light breeze. The tow rope was accordingly cast off,
+and we proceeded at our highest rate of speed with
+the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; following close at our heels.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally our progress would be checked by a
+stream of ice extending across the lane of water
+through which we were steering; but through these
+obstructions we bored, or charged them at full speed,
+and thus cleared a way. A walrus and a few seals
+were seen on the ice, but their capture did not hold
+out sufficient inducement to detain the ship.</p>
+
+<p>Very different from the apathy shown on passing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page46" id="page46"></a>46</span>
+these animals was the excitement exhibited when a
+bear, a veritable Polar bear, was seen on the ice.
+Such a rush for rifles and weapons of all descriptions!
+It was the first and only bear seen, and therefore the
+excitement its presence caused was natural. Every
+one appeared to share in it. Bear-skins were certainly
+on that day at a premium, for all were eager and
+anxious to become the fortunate possessor of such a
+prize. Master Bruin, however, did not reciprocate
+this feeling, and evinced an equal amount of anxiety
+to retain his nice warm coat.</p>
+
+<p>The engines were immediately stopped, and the
+boats crammed with volunteer hunters. These landing
+on the ice, advanced upon their quarry in skirmishing
+order, while the ship, steaming round to the opposite
+side of the floe, endeavoured to cut off his retreat.
+All was ineffectual. Bruin&rsquo;s strategic abilities were
+of too high an order for us to cope successfully with
+him in his own territories, and he escaped. Many
+rounds of ammunition, however, were fired at him
+both from the party on shore and also by those on
+board the ship, in the faint hope that a lucky shot
+might bring him down. To this day there are many
+who seriously believe that he carried away with him a
+portion of the bullets they so lavishly expended. So
+keen were some in the ardour and excitement of the
+chase that they rushed on, heedless of the rotten and
+treacherous nature of the ice, until an immersion in
+the cold water brought them to a sense of their
+danger and compelled them to seek refuge on board
+the ship, wet, cold, and uncomfortable. Many little
+rotges (<i>Alca alle</i>) were flitting about from the ice to
+the water, and the beautiful ivory gull (<i>Larus eburneus</i>)
+was also seen for the first time.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:901px; height:567px" src="images/img69.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">POLAR BEARS.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page47" id="page47"></a>47</span></p>
+
+<p>In thirty-four hours from first encountering the ice
+we reached the North Water, and our troubles were
+for a time at an end. It was an unprecedented
+passage. Only seventy hours from Upernivik to Cape
+York!</p>
+
+<p>Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a
+beautifully smooth unruffled sea, devoid of all ice,
+was in front; everything pointed to success, and the
+hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and
+delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost
+realization of their hopes. Large icebergs were
+around us in every direction; but what cared we then
+for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North
+Water had been reached; our way lay northwards.
+In a few short days the entrance of Smith Sound
+would be reached, the threshold of the unknown
+region crossed, and then onwards to&mdash;where? We
+did not dare to anticipate, but we felt that the first
+step towards success had been gained, and that we
+had commenced our real work under most propitious
+circumstances. We would not predict, but we determined
+to deserve, success.</p>
+
+<p>It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation
+that this &ldquo;North Water&rdquo; had been so speedily and
+so successfully reached. Instead of only two or three
+weeks of the navigable season being available for us
+to penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound,
+owing to our rapid passage, we could reckon upon a
+clear month or five weeks before being compelled to
+secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which,
+our fuel had been very materially saved by this quick
+run, and this in itself, to ships situated as we were,
+was no unimportant matter.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page48" id="page48"></a>48</span>
+&ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; was ordered to proceed shorewards for
+the purpose of communicating with the natives (the
+Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of
+inducing one of their number, a brother-in-law of
+Hans, to accompany the expedition; the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; in
+the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands,
+at which latter place the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; was ordered to
+rejoin us.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of
+about two miles from the shore, was most interesting.
+The hills along the coast were entirely clad with snow,
+whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far
+back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the
+everlasting <i>mer de glace</i>. Numerous glaciers of various
+sizes, some of them being discharging ones, rolled
+down to the water&rsquo;s edge in one vast icy sheet. The
+width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully
+seven miles. Fragments from these lay scattered
+along the coast in every direction, whilst we had to
+thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of
+every form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of
+Beverley, we were able to distinguish, in a few small
+patches, the so-called coloured snow whence the name
+originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of
+bright colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting
+illustrated work describing his voyage to
+Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this
+colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set
+at rest. It is an alga, the <i>Protococcus nivalis</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We did not reach the Cary Islands so soon as we
+expected, in consequence of experiencing a strong
+S.E. current that had not been anticipated. A sudden
+rise of temperature of the surface water naturally led
+us to suppose that it must be due to the absence of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page49" id="page49"></a>49</span>
+ice, which, raising our spirits, made us regard with
+displeasure any hindrance to our progress.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving off the Cary group early on the morning of
+the 27th, we were detained for a few hours landing a
+boat with a large depôt of provisions, sufficient to
+sustain 60 men for two months, or 120 men for one
+month. The depôt was placed on the easternmost
+island, and a large cairn was erected on the highest
+and most prominent point. Here also were deposited
+the last home letters which our friends were destined
+to receive until after our own arrival in England.</p>
+
+<p>The depôt was established as a safeguard for us to
+fall back upon in case of any accident happening to
+our vessels in Smith Sound. From this position it
+was expected that a party duly provisioned would have
+little difficulty in reaching the northern Greenland
+settlements, or at any rate the simple but hospitable
+natives of Cape York, who would, it was anticipated,
+afford us protection and assistance. This duty having
+been accomplished, and having been rejoined by our
+consort, the northward course was resumed.<a name="fa1d" id="fa1d" href="#ft1d"><span class="sp">1</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Crossing over to the eastward we steamed along on
+that beautifully clear sunny morning within a short
+distance of the western shores of Greenland. With
+the exception of icebergs, not a speck of ice was to be
+seen to disturb the smooth glassy surface of the sea.
+Passing the mouth of Whale Sound we made rapid
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page50" id="page50"></a>50</span>
+progress northwards, steering between Northumberland
+and Hakluyt Islands, almost under their steep,
+precipitous, and in some places overhanging cliffs; on
+past Murchison Sound with the Crystal Palace
+glacier ahead, whilst on our port bow was easily
+discernible the opposite coast of Ellesmere Land, with
+the Prince of Wales Mountains, covered with snow or
+ice, rising above the western horizon.</p>
+
+<p>It was indeed a glorious sight as we passed close to
+this little known land, opening out, as we proceeded,
+its many and large glaciers glittering white and
+radiant in the sunshine, growing, as it were, out of the
+clouds and rolling down grandly towards the sea,
+until the opaque masses plunged sullenly and silently
+into the deep blue water.</p>
+
+<p>Animal life, so far as the feathered tribes were concerned,
+appeared in abundance. The lively little
+rotges or little auks (<i>Alca alle</i>) were seen in frequent
+clusters diving quickly under water as the ship
+approached. Looms (<i>Uria Brunnichii</i>), dovekies (<i>Uria
+grylle</i>), and king-ducks (<i>Somateria spectabilis</i>), alarmed
+at our appearance, rose in long flights, and circled
+around us uttering their discordant cries. The
+glaucous gull and the pretty kittiwake (<i>Larus tridactylus</i>)
+soared above our heads, whilst occasionally
+a graceful ivory gull (<i>Larus eburneus</i>) flapped its way
+leisurely along, its snowy wings contrasting with the
+background of clear blue sky. Here and there, on
+small fragments of floating ice, were seen huge
+walruses basking in the golden sunshine. Amid such
+scenes, which to be realized must be seen, the two
+vessels wended their way towards the entrance of
+Smith Sound, all elated with the fair prospect that was
+before them and hopeful for the future.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page51" id="page51"></a>51</span></p>
+
+<p>At half-past seven on the morning of the 28th of
+July both ships came to an anchor in Hartstene Bay,
+more commonly known as Port Foulke, the harbour
+in which Dr. Hayes wintered in 1860.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1d" id="ft1d" href="#fa1d"><span class="fn">1</span></a> The Cary Islands consist of a group of eight islands, besides small
+rocks or islets, and are situated in Baffin Bay, in lat. 76° 45&prime; N. They
+vary in size from two and a half miles in diameter downwards. They
+are composed of syenitic and porphyritic granite, overlaid in places
+with gneiss. They rise to a height of about 400 feet above the level
+of the sea, and possess a luxuriant vegetation, at least for these
+regions. They are much frequented as breeding places by the eider-ducks
+and looms.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page52" id="page52"></a>52</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER V.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">SMITH SOUND.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles,</p>
+<p class="i05">On Behring&rsquo;s rocks, or Greenland&rsquo;s naked isles.</p>
+<p class="i05">Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow,</p>
+<p class="i05">From wastes that slumber in eternal snow,</p>
+<p class="i05">And waft across the waves&rsquo; tumultuous roar</p>
+<p class="i05">The wolf&rsquo;s long howl from Oonalaska&rsquo;s shore.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Campbell.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">No</span> sooner were the ships secured and breakfast discussed,
+than there was a regular rush for the shore.
+Some went for a scramble over the neighbouring
+glacier, named by Dr. Kane, &ldquo;My brother John&rsquo;s
+glacier;&rdquo; some went to collect specimens; others to
+take various scientific observations; and others to
+hunt and shoot&mdash;this spot having been found
+wonderfully prolific of game, more especially of
+reindeer, during Dr. Hayes&rsquo;s stay. No signs of any
+inhabitants were visible. This surprised us, as we
+were fully expecting to meet the natives of the village
+of Etah, situated only a couple of miles from the
+anchorage. A visit to the village during the course
+of the day proved the huts to be standing, but quite
+deserted. Traces of their having been recently inhabited
+were manifest, and portions of seal and walrus
+meat were discovered in <i>caches</i>, as if the migration was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page53" id="page53"></a>53</span>
+only temporary and a return was meditated. No
+other signs, however, of any living human being were
+found.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving to others the exploration of the country in
+the immediate vicinity of the harbour, Captain Nares
+and myself started, in one of the whale-boats, with
+four men, for the purpose of visiting Life-boat Cove,
+where some of the officers and crew of the &ldquo;Polaris&rdquo;
+spent their second winter, 1872-3, and also to search
+for an iron boat on Littleton Island, said to have been
+left there by Dr. Hayes in 1860.</p>
+
+<p>Sailing round Sunrise Point, we encountered a fresh
+northerly wind dead in our teeth, against which, under
+oars, we made but slow progress, whilst the cold spray
+flew aft into our faces where it almost froze. After
+about five hours&rsquo; hard pulling Life-boat Cove was
+reached, and very glad we all were to get on shore
+and stretch our legs and restore the circulation of our
+blood.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately on landing we met with traces of the
+late occupants. These consisted of a large cairn&mdash;which,
+however, had been demolished by others
+previous to our arrival, probably by the searching
+expedition sent out in the &ldquo;Tigress&rdquo; in 1873&mdash;a
+basket lined with tin, and a trunk, neither of which
+contained anything of importance; indeed, their contents
+and the strong odour pervading them convinced
+us that they were now the property of Eskimos.
+Strolling on a little further, a boat was seen, which,
+although somewhat of European shape, appeared to be
+of Eskimo construction, as it was simply a framework
+covered with skins; yet it was undoubtedly built
+under a white man&rsquo;s superintendence.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing to advance until we reached the western
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page54" id="page54"></a>54</span>
+extreme of the spit of land on which we had landed,
+we conjectured, from the amount of <i>débris</i> by which
+we were surrounded, although no remains of a house
+were visible, that we were on the site of the Americans&rsquo;
+winter quarters. Trunks, boxes, stoves, pieces of wood,
+gun-barrels, and odds and ends of all descriptions lay
+strewed about over an area of half a square mile&mdash;a
+desolate scene of ruin and misery!</p>
+
+<p>Some of the boxes were marked with the names of
+their previous owners, and contained, amongst other
+things, books, principally relating to the Arctic regions.
+One trunk contained a few small articles of female
+apparel, such as a lace collar and black veil, and some
+faded ribbons; souvenirs from some fair damsel at
+home, which had probably, from the thoughts their
+presence created, beguiled many a long and lonely
+hour during the monotonous winter night. Numerous
+cairns and <i>caches</i>, under which were deposited lumps of
+seal blubber, led us to suppose that the natives intended
+returning, especially with such a mine of
+wealth to attract them as an abundance of wood and
+iron, so invaluable to an Eskimo.</p>
+
+<p>Two other boats were also found, constructed in the
+same rude manner as the first. On one was painted,
+in good large letters, the word MAUMOKPO; though
+what it meant we were at a loss to conceive, but concluded
+it was an Icelandic name.</p>
+
+<p>Two Casella thermometers, marked as low as 130°
+below zero, were also picked up in perfect order. It
+is to be regretted that these were not self-registering
+maximum and minimum thermometers, as it would
+have been most interesting to have ascertained the
+greatest amount of heat and cold at this spot during a
+period of more than two years.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page55" id="page55"></a>55</span></p>
+
+<p>Collecting everything that we considered of the
+least value, such as books and instruments, for the
+purpose of returning them to the United States
+Government, and taking possession of a couple of boats,
+which we thought would prove useful at some of our
+depôts, we embarked and proceeded towards Littleton
+Island, with our prizes in tow. Diligent search was
+made for the pendulum said to have been left by the
+&ldquo;Polaris&rdquo; people, but without success: also for the
+box chronometers and transit instrument, but with a
+like result. We could only come to the conclusion
+that, if these articles had been left there, somebody
+had been before us. Every cairn and <i>cache</i> was
+thoroughly examined, and so was every nook and
+crannie within a radius of half a mile from where we
+imagined the house had originally stood. A chronometer-box
+was picked up, but empty.</p>
+
+<p>On landing at Littleton Island a careful search was
+instituted for Hayes&rsquo;s boat, but, although we made
+the complete circuit of the island, we failed to discover
+any traces of it whatever. At the south-west
+end we erected a cairn on the highest hill, about five
+or six hundred feet above the level of the sea, and
+obtained a round of angles with the theodolite. The
+view from the top of this hill was very cheering.
+Cape Sabine was distinctly visible; whilst farther to
+the northward could be seen the land about Cape
+Fraser, with <i>no signs of ice</i>! We were, however, too
+wary to indulge to excess in hopeful anticipations,
+knowing full well the vagaries of our capricious
+enemy, the ice; but still such a scene could not but
+tend to cheer and exhilarate, and send us back to our
+ship with light and buoyant hearts.</p>
+
+<p>It was past midnight before we reached the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page56" id="page56"></a>56</span>
+&ldquo;Alert.&rdquo; Our sportsmen, we found, had been unsuccessful
+in their endeavours to shoot any reindeer;
+one, however, fell to the rifle of an officer of the
+&ldquo;Discovery.&rdquo; Very few were seen, and those so
+wild as to render an approach within range no easy
+matter. Several ducks and a few hares, however,
+were obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Port Foulke on the following morning, we
+crossed over to the west side, and erected a large
+cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, about one
+thousand feet above the level of the sea. The ascent
+of this headland was both arduous and dangerous.
+The face of the cliff was very precipitous, and it was
+only by a zig-zag course that it could be effected. At
+one moment the way led over loose shingle, that gave
+way under the feet at every step; at another over a
+broad patch of frozen snow, one false step on whose
+slippery surface would precipitate one many hundred
+feet below; and at another we were clinging desperately
+with hands and feet to the hard, smooth, syenitic
+granite rocks, of which this cape is composed. Very
+thankful were we when the summit was reached; but
+much more so when we found ourselves again at its
+base, sound in wind and limb. To add to the difficulties,
+there was a high wind and dense snowstorm.</p>
+
+<p>At a less high elevation, and in a secure niche
+amongst the rocks, were deposited an empty cask and
+about one hundred and fifty pounds of preserved beef.
+The cask was intended for the reception of any letters
+that might be brought up by a Government ship in
+the following year, or by any enterprising and adventurous
+whaling captain who should penetrate so
+far in order to bring us news. The provisions were
+left as a small depôt for any sledging party that might
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page57" id="page57"></a>57</span>
+be dispatched to the southward. The site was
+marked by a small cairn. Records were left at each
+of these cairns detailing the movements and the
+prospects of the expedition, together with instructions
+regarding our letters, should any be brought thus far.</p>
+
+<p>Some beautiful little yellow poppies were gathered
+on the slopes and crests of the hill, whilst the draba
+and saxifrage were found growing in profusion.</p>
+
+<p>The navigation of these icy seas is most uncertain!
+Within twenty-four hours of the time that, from the
+summit of Littleton Island, we had been cheered by
+the view of an apparently open sea free of ice, and
+extending in our imagination for miles to the northward,
+we were battling with the pack, consisting of
+large floes and loose broken-up fields, that extended
+on both sides of us and as far north as we could see.
+From this period our troubles commenced; from this
+date our progress was one endless and unceasing
+struggle with the ice: ever on the watch, and never
+allowing a favourable opportunity to pass unheeded.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was
+observed stretching across Baird Inlet&mdash;the fixed land
+ice with loose detached streams. As we proceeded
+more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded
+us, and we only succeeded, after much boring
+and charging, in forcing a way through, and into a
+well-protected little harbour to the southward of Cape
+Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation
+in the land having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E.
+which acted as a famous breakwater, and was protected
+seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were
+detained for five days, although several attempts were
+made to proceed, which resulted in one instance in a
+hopeless besetment in the ice for some hours. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page58" id="page58"></a>58</span>
+pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait
+patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage.
+The place was in consequence called &ldquo;Bide-a-wee&rdquo;
+Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer Harbour,
+after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of
+that name.</p>
+
+<p>During our detention the time of the officers was
+not unprofitably spent. A rough survey of the place
+was made, its position was correctly ascertained, a
+series of magnetic observations were obtained, and
+long walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during
+which a large and rich collection was made in the
+interests of geology and botany. No game of any
+description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered,
+but evidently of an ancient date. They
+consisted of the remains of igdlus or huts, also some
+bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of
+a sledge.<a name="fa1e" id="fa1e" href="#ft1e"><span class="sp">1</span></a> Tidal observations were also taken in the
+harbour.</p>
+
+<p>Here also, it may be said, we received our first
+lessons in the art of sledging; for, wishing to be
+initiated into its mysteries, a party, consisting of four
+officers and five men dragging one of our large twenty-feet
+ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the
+pack. Our main object was of course to derive some
+practical experience in this all-important mode of
+Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we succeeded.</p>
+
+<p>We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with
+narrow water spaces between, <i>just</i> too broad to admit
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page59" id="page59"></a>59</span>
+of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently wide to
+launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at
+one time the bows of the boat would be seen rising
+almost perpendicularly in the air, whilst all hands
+were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes
+to the tune of &ldquo;one, two, three, haul;&rdquo; at another
+time the sledge would come down the side of a
+hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly
+time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and
+boat coming over us, and many were the falls in
+consequence. It was, however, rare fun. Once while
+launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly
+capsized; as it was she half filled, and everything
+inside&mdash;provisions, clothes, instruments, guns, and
+ammunition&mdash;was thoroughly saturated. A gold
+watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not
+improved by its immersion.</p>
+
+<p>Another source of amusement during our stay in
+this harbour was chasing &ldquo;unies,&rdquo; as narwhals are
+invariably called by the whalers; but, although a
+good deal of patience and perseverance was displayed
+in attempts to harpoon them, these qualities were
+never rewarded, and the boats always returned unsuccessful
+from their pursuit.</p>
+
+<p>Our little check in this harbour produced a slight
+despondency in those who, for the previous few days,
+had been most sanguine of pushing on. This was
+always alluded to in the ward-room as the depression
+of the social barometer, and was for the future daily
+registered!</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 4th of August, a southerly
+gale having blown all the previous night, a channel
+of open water was visible as far as Cape Sabine.
+This was an opportunity not to be lost. Accordingly,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page60" id="page60"></a>60</span>
+at 4 <span class="scs">A.M.</span>, the anchors were weighed, and, before a
+fresh but bitter cold wind, both ships made sail, and
+succeeded, after having made so many futile attempts,
+in rounding the Cape. Bearing away to the westward
+we steered up Hayes Sound, keeping close in to the
+land, the grounded icebergs giving us timely notice
+of shoal water. At noon, opening a perfectly land-locked
+bay, and the ice being so closely packed ahead
+as to defy farther progress, the vessels were steered
+for the entrance, and we soon found ourselves in a
+beautiful inlet enclosed by high land, but bounded on
+one side by one of the grandest sights it is possible
+to behold: two enormous glaciers coming from different
+directions, but converging at their termination.
+They reminded us of two huge giants silently attempting
+to push and force each other away.</p>
+
+<p>It was indeed a noble sight, and filled us with
+impatient curiosity for the moment when we could
+land and indulge in a closer inspection.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, the anchors were no sooner let go
+than several started for the purpose of paying it a
+visit. Landing abreast of the ship, we had rather
+a rough and tumble sort of a scramble over loose
+masses of gneiss, until we emerged on the banks of
+the bed of the glacier&mdash;that is, the bed formed by the
+water running from the glacier during the summer
+thaws. The walking was most laborious, at one
+moment through a wet swampy bog, and at another
+over rough sharp-pointed stones.</p>
+
+<p>The vegetation appeared luxuriant, and we found
+the traces of musk-oxen, reindeer, wolves, foxes, and
+hares in abundance; but, although we were provided
+with guns, we failed to secure any game, for the
+simple reason that we saw none. But the traces of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page61" id="page61"></a>61</span>
+musk-oxen were very fresh, and several horns of the
+reindeer were picked up. After a tedious walk of
+about four or five miles we arrived at the glacier&mdash;the
+stupendous and sublime work of ages. How insignificant
+and despicable did we appear in comparison
+to this gigantic creation of Nature! I can compare
+it to nothing except, perhaps, a frozen Niagara! The
+left-hand glacier was rounded off, like a huge icy
+wave to its end, whilst it receded from our view in
+long milky undulations until lost in the clouds. The
+right-hand one&mdash;the lateral and terminal sides of
+which were quite precipitous&mdash;was pressing against
+its neighbour until it had raised a slight ridge between
+the two. We were naturally desirous of ascending
+one or both of these glaciers, but time would not
+admit of such an undertaking, and we were therefore
+compelled to content ourselves by standing upon a
+small projection of each glacier, so as to be able to say
+that we had been on them.</p>
+
+<p>That Eskimos had visited this locality was certain;
+for we discovered on our way out the site of an old
+settlement, and on the way back we observed two
+large cairns that had evidently been used as <i>caches</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Alexandra Bay and Twin Glacier Valley, as they
+were henceforth designated, were the nearest approach
+to an Arctic paradise that we saw during our sojourn
+in the Polar Regions. A sheltered and well-protected
+harbour, with a locality abounding in game of various
+descriptions, are of such importance that it is impossible
+to prize them too highly. They should be
+the first and grand objects to be taken into consideration
+whilst selecting a spot for winter quarters.</p>
+
+<p>Although we were not fortunate in obtaining game
+during our stay of only a few hours in this interesting
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page62" id="page62"></a>62</span>
+neighbourhood, I have not the slightest doubt that,
+had we penetrated a little farther into the interior,
+or had we remained here a day or two longer, we
+should have been rewarded by an ample supply, the
+traces that we observed being both numerous and
+recent.</p>
+
+<p>From tidal observations made during our brief stay
+in this harbour, we found that the flood tide in Hayes
+Sound came from the eastward, but that the ebb
+coming from the westward was the strongest. Whether
+Hayes Sound was a strait opening out to the westward
+or only a deep inlet was, and remains, a matter of
+uncertainty.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1e" id="ft1e" href="#fa1e"><span class="fn">1</span></a> The fact of one of these spear-heads being tipped with iron,
+although they all bear the semblance of great age, would lead one to
+suppose that the tribe by whom it was left must have had some
+intercourse with Europeans, unless meteoric iron was used. This
+would be a very interesting question to decide.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page63" id="page63"></a>63</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VI.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;On those great waters now I am,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Of which I have been told,</p>
+<p class="i05">That whosoever hither came</p>
+  <p class="i1">Should wonders there behold.</p>
+
+<p class="s">&ldquo;Trim thou the sails, and let good speed</p>
+  <p class="i1">Accompany our haste;</p>
+<p class="i05">Sound thou the channels at our need,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And anchor for us cast.</p>
+
+<p class="s">&ldquo;A fit and favourable wind</p>
+  <p class="i1">To further us provide,</p>
+<p class="i05">And let it wait on us behind,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Or lackey by our side.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">George Wither.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> morning following our arrival in Alexandra
+Harbour saw us again battling with the ice in Hayes
+Sound, having been deluded into leaving our comfortable
+snug quarters by the report that the pack
+had drifted to the eastward, leaving a navigable
+channel extending to the north. The report was
+fallacious, but we succeeded in threading our way
+to the N.W. for about twenty miles, when both ships
+were helplessly beset, with but little hope of extrication
+without a shift of wind.</p>
+
+<p>Many broad glaciers were in view, winding their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page64" id="page64"></a>64</span>
+long white snaky lengths between the hills, some of
+which could be traced into the interior for ten or
+twelve miles, or until lost in illimitable space.</p>
+
+<p>In twenty-four hours, the ice slackening enabled us
+to bore a way through, eventually emerging into a
+broad stream of water. How sudden and wonderful
+are the changes in these regions! From being closely
+beset, a couple of hours saw us in an apparently open
+sea with <i>no ice</i> in sight, and bowling along before a
+fresh southerly gale at the rate of seven knots. Social
+barometer very high! In the morning not a spoonful
+of water to be seen in any direction, in the evening
+not a vestige of ice!</p>
+
+<p>Passing close to the western shore we were able
+to confirm our views regarding the Henry and Bache
+Islands of Hayes. They are undoubtedly connected,
+and therefore not islands; but whether they were also
+connected with the mainland we were not able to
+determine. In all probability the supposed islands
+are a peninsula, apparently of sandstone formation
+overlying trap, different to the granitic formation of
+the southern shore of the strait. The land appeared
+quite bare of vegetation, and bore a strong resemblance
+to the Silurian limestone formation of the
+land about Prince Regent Inlet, showing stratifications
+dipping to the northward at an angle of
+about 6°.</p>
+
+<p>It does not do to indulge too freely in vain hopes in
+these regions. A period of eight hours was sufficient
+to cause our hopeful anticipations of a grand run to
+the northward to be &ldquo;considerably eased down;&rdquo; for
+in that time we were again stopped by the ice, and
+compelled to make fast to a floe, until the pack opened
+sufficiently to allow us to proceed. During the run we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page65" id="page65"></a>65</span>
+passed some very heavy floes&mdash;heavier than anything
+we had hitherto met, and quite sufficient in themselves
+to crush any unfortunate ship that should
+happen to get nipped between two of them.</p>
+
+<p>Off Albert Head great excitement was caused by
+the floe, to which both ships were secured, being
+driven towards a large grounded iceberg. To be
+squeezed between the two would be fatal. Our
+destruction seemed inevitable. Yet we on board were
+helpless to avert the catastrophe. All that we could
+do was to prepare for a severe nip: unship the rudder,
+and lift the screw, and having taken every precaution
+to ensure the safety of the crew, in the event of the
+ship&rsquo;s demolition, we could only look on, and in
+silence witness, as we thought, the irresistible and
+destroying powers of the Ice-King.</p>
+
+<p>The &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; was at first in the most critical
+position, but a slight swerving of the floe relieved her
+from any immediate danger, whilst the same movement
+of the ice intensified our own.</p>
+
+<p>Nearer and more swiftly were we hurried towards
+the grim and motionless berg, up whose sides the
+floe, as it came into contact with it, was seen to be
+literally walking and forcing its way, crumbling and
+falling into shapeless masses at its base.</p>
+
+<p>Escape appeared impossible. It seemed hard at
+the very commencement of our voyage thus to lose
+our ship, and with it all hopes of success. Suddenly,
+when our fate seemed almost decided, the berg turned
+slightly, splitting up the floe to which we were secured
+and sending us clear. It was a narrow shave, and
+although we suffered a slight nip, no material damage
+was sustained.</p>
+
+<p>Being myself too fully occupied with the work on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page66" id="page66"></a>66</span>
+deck, one of my messmates kindly packed a few of
+my valuables together, ready to take away in case of
+having to abandon the ship. On going below after
+the ship had been secured, I found carefully packed
+in a haversack my journals, Bible and Prayer-Book,
+a few photographs, and three boxes of sardines!</p>
+
+<p>It must not be supposed that we passed in idleness
+those days that we were beset in the ice and unable
+to advance. As a rule our time was more fully
+occupied then than when we had leads of water in
+which we could proceed. Steam had to be kept
+ready for any sudden emergency, and a constant
+watch had to be kept on every movement of the pack.
+Frequently had the ice anchors to be tripped and the
+vessel moved, in order to avoid bergs or floes closing
+in upon and nipping us. Occasionally, when the
+pack opened, or appeared what we called &ldquo;slack,&rdquo;
+we would attempt to bore through; but as this
+invariably entailed a large consumption of fuel, and
+gave very little result, it was not resorted to more
+than was absolutely necessary. Every opening in
+the ice was taken advantage of, by which we slowly
+but surely made progress northwards.</p>
+
+<p>The crow&rsquo;s-nest was never deserted. In it Captain
+Nares might almost be said to live, rarely coming on
+deck even for his meals; as for a night&rsquo;s rest, such a
+thing to him was quite unknown. From the &ldquo;nest&rdquo;
+the motions of the ice were closely scrutinized, the
+tides and currents were studied, and the influence of
+the wind on the pack ascertained. No opportunity
+was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing
+watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in
+advancing, although it was only inch by inch.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page67" id="page67"></a>67</span></p>
+
+<p>Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the
+8th of August, but at the expense of damaged rudder-heads
+to both ships, caused by the constant backing
+into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking
+through slight streams that offered impediments to
+our advance. A detention here enabled us to pay the
+shore a visit. Great difficulty was experienced in
+landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the
+land, which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall
+rising to the height of about twelve feet. Indeed it
+was more overhanging than perpendicular, as the
+action of the water had considerably undermined its
+base and therefore rendered it almost inaccessible.
+By the aid of a long boat-hook staff and some rope
+we succeeded in clambering up, at the expense of
+bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting
+like penknives. This proceeding was not unattended
+by a certain amount of danger, for had the ice given
+way we should have been precipitated into the boat,
+in which case we should have been extremely lucky to
+have escaped without a fractured bone or limb.</p>
+
+<p>The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of
+which the hills were composed made the walking very
+arduous, added to which a thick fog and snowstorm
+that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so
+far as ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward
+and the prospect of pushing on were concerned. The
+steep cliffs surrounding this prominent headland are
+wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and
+weather, and present the same &ldquo;battlemented&rdquo; appearance
+so common to the Silurian limestone formation
+of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and
+Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but,
+with the exception of some sprigs of the stunted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page68" id="page68"></a>68</span>
+willow and a single tuft of saxifrage, the land was
+devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched
+away into the interior, entirely free from both snow
+and ice. Traces of former inhabitants were discovered
+along the beach, consisting of the site of an Eskimo
+settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto the traces of these interesting tribes have
+been continuous along the western side of Smith
+Sound, and tend, in my opinion, to prove conclusively
+that the Eskimos were in former days far more
+numerous than they are at the present time. What
+has become of them? The solution of this important
+ethnological question would be of the greatest interest.
+Have they gradually died out? or have they migrated
+farther south, and are now represented by the &ldquo;Arctic
+Highlanders,&rdquo; and by tribes settled on both sides of
+Lancaster Sound who are frequently visited by our
+whalers?</p>
+
+<p>It is certain that at some remote time there was
+a movement of Eskimo tribes from Asia towards
+Greenland in these high latitudes, for traces of their
+encampments have been found along the shores of
+the Parry group from Melville Island to Lancaster
+Sound, where they are still living in Dundas Harbour
+and in Admiralty Inlet. The late Admiral Sherard
+Osborn and my cousin, Mr. Clements Markham, paid
+great attention to this subject during the Arctic
+Expedition of 1850-51, and prepared a descriptive
+list of all the Eskimo vestiges along the whole length
+of the Parry group.<a name="fa1f" id="fa1f" href="#ft1f"><span class="sp">1</span></a> We now traced similar remains
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page69" id="page69"></a>69</span>
+up the western side of the channels leading north from
+Smith Sound, at Cape Sabine, on the shores of
+Buchanan Strait, on Norman Lockyer Island, on
+Capes Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, and Fraser,
+at Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Island. The most
+northern point where human remains were discovered
+was at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54&prime; N. Here our naturalist
+found the framework of a large wooden sledge,
+a stone lamp, and a snow scraper made of walrus
+tusk. Beyond this point there was no sign of any
+human being having preceded us. This is the utmost
+northern known limit of Eskimo wandering, and here
+they appear to have crossed the strait, and to have
+made their way southward on the Greenland side.
+The most northern permanent human habitation in
+the world is now at Etah, near Port Foulke, and,
+under present climatic conditions, it would be impossible
+even for the Etah Eskimo to exist at Cape
+Beechey, in 81° 54&prime; N., whither their ancestors must
+have wandered in remote times. There is much yet
+to learn respecting these marvellous wanderings along
+the Arctic shores; and our expedition has certainly
+thrown considerable new light on the question. We
+have fixed the most northern limit of the Eskimo
+migrations, and have established the fact that they
+did not come from the north down Smith Sound, but
+merely wandered round its shores until the palæocrystic
+floes in Robeson Channel made them despair
+of finding there the means of supporting life. We
+have also proved that the people seen by Captain
+Clavering on the east coast of Greenland in 1823
+could not have come round its northern extreme, but
+that they had found their way to the neighbourhood
+of the Pendulum Islands from Cape Farewell. They
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page70" id="page70"></a>70</span>
+are useful contributions towards the final solution
+of a very important ethnological question, which,
+however, cannot be fully and conclusively settled until
+all the unknown parts of the Polar area have been
+explored.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1f" id="ft1f" href="#fa1f"><span class="fn">1</span></a> See the &ldquo;Selection of Papers on Arctic Geography and Ethnology,&rdquo;
+printed for the use of the Expedition by the Royal Geographical
+Society, p. 163.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page71" id="page71"></a>71</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">WALRUS HUNT.&mdash;DOG DRIVING.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;So Zembla&rsquo;s rocks, the beauteous work of frost,</p>
+<p class="i05">Rise white in air, and glitter o&rsquo;er the coast;</p>
+<p class="i05">Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away,</p>
+<p class="i05">And on the impassive ice the lightnings play;</p>
+<p class="i05">Eternal snows the growing mass supply,</p>
+<p class="i05">Till the bright mountains prop the incumbent sky:</p>
+<p class="i05">As Atlas fixed, each hoary pile appears,</p>
+<p class="i05">The gathered winter of a thousand years.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Pope.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">During</span> the remainder of the navigable season, I
+propose to present the narrative of the voyage in the
+form of a diary, giving the extracts as they were
+written down at the time, when the events they
+record were fresh in my memory.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, August 8th.</i>&mdash;Snow fell very heavily during
+the forenoon, completely covering the surrounding
+hills, and lying several inches deep on our deck.
+Clearing up in the afternoon we found ourselves
+completely beset by the ice and drifting shorewards.
+Steam was resorted to and every effort made to reach
+a narrow lane of water, only a hundred yards distant,
+but without success. At four o&rsquo;clock the ship experienced
+a slight nip, the ice piling up as high as
+our main chains, but fortunately for us it was of too
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page72" id="page72"></a>72</span>
+soft a nature to do much damage. Half an hour
+afterwards the nip eased and the pack commenced
+to open, showing broad lanes of water. This sudden
+slackening of the ice was due to the total cessation
+of wind. We soon extricated ourselves from our
+unpleasant situation, and lay in eager readiness to
+take advantage of any opportunity of advancing that
+might offer itself.</p>
+
+<p>11.30 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>&mdash;The ways of ice are indeed inscrutable!
+Five hours ago Grinnell Land loomed in the distance,
+and we had little prospect of reaching it for some
+time. Now we are actually made fast to the land-ice
+in Franklin Pierce Bay on the southern shore of
+Grinnell Land!</p>
+
+<p>We esteem ourselves particularly fortunate in
+having reached thus far. Cape Fraser is not far
+distant, and this appears to be our Rubicon. Once
+passed, fewer difficulties are anticipated. We may
+very fairly reason that to the northward of this promontory
+will be found a &ldquo;North Water&rdquo; similar to
+the one north of Baffin Bay, the ice remaining in the
+broad part of Smith Sound like the middle pack in
+Baffin Bay and Davis Straits.</p>
+
+<p>In the latitude of Cape Fraser Kane reported what
+he called an open Polar Sea, Hayes the same, whilst
+the &ldquo;Polaris&rdquo; actually navigated for some distance
+this &ldquo;North Water.&rdquo; Why-should we find it different?</p>
+
+<p>The ice opened this afternoon in a miraculous
+manner, in one long lead from land to land, sufficiently
+wide for us to pass through; and then, as if
+it had opened expressly for us, closed again, and with
+such rapidity that our consort, who was following in
+our wake, having lagged a little behind, was caught
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page73" id="page73"></a>73</span>
+and remained beset for some time; eventually, however,
+boring through and rejoining us.</p>
+
+<p><i>August 9th.</i>&mdash;We succeeded this morning in pushing
+on for three or four miles, when, being completely
+stopped by the ice, we were again compelled to make
+fast. In consequence of the heavy fall of snow
+yesterday, the surface of the water was coated with
+a soft sludgy substance, half ice and half snow, which
+greatly impeded our progress.</p>
+
+<p>The statement made by Dr. Hayes in his interesting
+work, that &ldquo;along the entire coast of Grinnell
+Land no glacier appears,&rdquo; is slightly inaccurate; for at
+the head of Franklin Pierce Bay two tolerably large
+glaciers are situated, whilst another was seen a few
+miles to the westward on the same coast. Doubtless
+Dr. Hayes intended to say <i>discharging</i> glaciers, in
+which case he would, I think, be nearly correct.</p>
+
+<p>For three days were we detained, without the ice
+allowing us the slightest chance of moving, during
+which time a complete series of magnetic observations
+was obtained on the floe, the inclination of the needle
+being as much as 85° 34&prime;. Both the dredge and trawl
+were also put into requisition and with good results.
+Amongst the many zoological curiosities brought to the
+surface, from a depth of fifteen fathoms, were some
+crinoids. These echinoderms are very rare, few
+specimens having been met with, until the deep-sea
+dredgings of the &ldquo;Challenger&rdquo; brought them more
+into notice.</p>
+
+<p>A small island, since called Norman Lockyer
+Island after the distinguished astronomer of that
+name, was visited, and its highest eminence ascended
+for the purpose of watching the movements of the
+pack. Landing on the ice-foot that fringed the shore,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page74" id="page74"></a>74</span>
+we stepped on to a long shaly beach that rose in well-defined
+and regular terraces to at least two hundred
+feet above the level of the sea, showing the different
+tidal marks, and illustrating clearly the gradual upheaval
+of the land. Numerous traces of Eskimo were
+discovered on this small and remote island, consisting
+of the sites of several encampments, and a bone
+harpoon point, all apparently of very ancient date.
+The highest part of the island is from five to six
+hundred feet above the sea. It is of limestone
+formation, and on several of the rocks, especially
+those at its summit, distinct glacial marks were
+detected. Vegetation was scanty, although here and
+there the poppy, saxifrage, and willow could be seen
+cropping up between the stones.</p>
+
+<p>Here too we succeeded in harpooning a couple of
+walruses. Three of these large animals were observed
+on a piece of ice, their large ungainly forms stretched
+out, lazily enjoying their <i>siesta</i>. Volunteers were not
+wanting for the purpose of attempting their capture;
+but as an indiscriminate attack would only lead to
+failure, it was determined to despatch one of the
+whale boats, specially fitted with a harpoon gun, and
+all the necessary implements and gear for securing
+these animals, in order to effect in a more organized
+and skilful manner the object we had in view.</p>
+
+<p>Great difficulty was experienced in approaching
+our prey, as the boat had to be hauled over loose
+fragments of ice, and pushed through a sludgy consistency
+of soft ice, snow, and water, in which the
+oars were useless; so that it was feared the unavoidable
+noise would disturb and frighten them away.
+At length, after much trouble and no little exertion,
+we succeeded in getting within about eight yards,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page75" id="page75"></a>75</span>
+so sound was their repose, without exciting any suspicion
+in their minds that danger was lurking in their
+vicinity. At that distance, however, they evinced a
+degree of restlessness, by lifting their shaggy heads
+and uttering jerky spasmodic snorts, that showed us
+only too plainly a retreat was meditated.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:797px; height:428px" src="images/img99.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">WALRUSES.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Selecting the largest of the three as his victim,
+our harpooner carefully laid his gun. A moment of
+breathless suspense followed, to be relieved by the
+report of the gun, a roar of pain and rage, and the
+disappearance in the water of the three walruses,
+while the piece of ice, on which a moment before they
+had been reposing, was covered with blood, convincing
+us that our shaft had taken effect. If any further
+proof was required in corroboration of this fact, a
+tugging at the line and the sudden moving of the
+boat was sufficient. Lances and rifles were quickly
+seized; for these animals, when wounded and maddened
+by pain, are ugly and dangerous customers,
+and have frequently been known to rip the planks
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page76" id="page76"></a>76</span>
+out of a boat with their formidable tusks, and thus
+seriously endanger the lives of the crew. We had
+not long to wait; a disturbance in the water close
+alongside denoted that our victim was coming to the
+surface. An instant after, his bearded face with every
+expression of infuriated rage and demoniacal hate,
+his fiery eyes glaring with vengeance, appeared, and
+was immediately saluted with two or three rifle
+bullets. This warm reception served only to incense
+and irritate him, and he tried hard to wreak his
+vengeance on the boat; but his enemies were too
+powerful, and with the united aid of bullets and lance
+thrusts the unwieldy beast was forced to succumb
+to the superior power of his human antagonists.
+Towing the great carcase back to the ship, it was
+hauled up on the floe, and quickly <i>flinched</i>.<a name="fa1g" id="fa1g" href="#ft1g"><span class="sp">1</span></a> The
+blubber and flesh were packed in barrels, making a
+very welcome addition to the small amount of food
+that we had on board for our dogs.</p>
+
+<p>Another walrus was harpooned on the following
+day, and these were the only two captured by the
+expedition during their stay in the Arctic regions.
+Walrus steaks, from this date, were for some time in
+great demand, whilst the liver was pronounced to be
+perfectly excellent, and even superior to pig&rsquo;s fry!</p>
+
+<p>As a rule these animals are exceedingly difficult to
+kill, for in addition to their enormously thick skulls
+and coating of almost impenetrable skin and blubber,
+they are excessively tenacious of life. A rifle bullet,
+although a walrus may eventually die of the wound,
+is more than useless, as it will effectually scare him
+away, and thus all chance of securing him is lost.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page77" id="page77"></a>77</span>
+The only sure way of succeeding in their capture is
+by the use of the harpoon, and this weapon of course
+is only available at short distances.</p>
+
+<p>During the temporary delays of the ships in the
+ice, amusement was not forgotten, and we often had
+rare fun. It is a very important point in an Arctic
+expedition to keep the men constantly employed and
+interested, otherwise they would, more especially
+when their onward progress was checked, be subject
+to gloomy moods and fits of despondency. Care,
+therefore, should be taken to guard against these
+feelings.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the numerous games purchased by the
+expedition before leaving England was a football,
+which, on occasions of this sort and when the ice
+would admit of it, would be produced, and a game
+kept up with great spirit, though with an utter disregard
+of all orthodox rules. So long as Jack got
+his kick, no matter in which direction the ball was
+propelled, he was satisfied! Officers and men would
+alike mingle in the game, every one determined to
+carry out the one grand object, namely, that of enjoying
+themselves. Skating and sliding on the ice were
+also accomplishments that afforded much pleasure
+and amusement, and were freely indulged in by all,
+irrespective of age or rank. Sometimes our Eskimo
+dogs would be taken out on the floe and harnessed
+to an empty sledge, whilst some would-be dog driver,
+anxious to attain proficiency as a whip, would make
+a start, and be seen tearing round the floe, regardless
+of weak ice and pools of water, at the rate of ten
+miles an hour, returning on board thoroughly
+drenched, but happy in the knowledge that he had
+succeeded as a dog driver.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page78" id="page78"></a>78</span></p>
+
+<p>Perhaps a few words here in connection with the
+dogs would not be out of place. As I have before
+stated, they lived almost entirely in the fore part of
+the vessel, and were consequently especial favourites
+with the men, by whom they were fed and greatly
+petted. Of course they were all named, their appellations
+being more characteristic than euphonious.
+They rejoiced in such names as Ginger, so called on
+account of his colour; Bruin, because he was minus
+a tail, having been deprived of this appendage in his
+youthful days; Boss-eye, on account of the obliquity
+of his vision, or as our men expressed it, because
+&ldquo;his eyes were rove cross-jack brace fashion;&rdquo; Sore-sides,
+in consequence of the unfortunate dog when it
+came on board suffering from an unhealed wound in
+its side. Sallie, Topsy, Sly-boots, Jessie, etc., were
+the names of others.</p>
+
+<p>The only English dog in the expedition was my
+black retriever Nellie, an old shipmate and companion,
+who took no pains to conceal her displeasure
+and disgust at the introduction of such, in her estimation,
+a rough and rowdy pack; nor was she ever
+afterwards induced to cultivate their acquaintance.
+As she lived in the after part of the ship, she viewed
+with a jealous eye any attempts on the part of the
+Eskimo dogs to intrude on what she regarded as her
+own domain, and would invariably fly at and drive
+them forward.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after their appearance on board, and long
+before they had been used for sledging purposes, a
+species of rabies, or dog madness, broke out amongst
+them, which very quickly and alarmingly thinned
+their number. The first symptom of this disease
+would generally be the dog falling down in a fit, from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page79" id="page79"></a>79</span>
+which it would partially recover only to rush about
+in a frantic manner as if totally deprived of all sense
+and feeling. On some occasions they would rush into
+the water and be drowned, and at other times wander
+away from the ship to be no more seen; sometimes
+their sufferings would terminate in death, whilst at
+other times they would be shot in order to release the
+poor things from their pain.</p>
+
+<p>All expeditions have experienced the same kind of
+disease and mortality amongst their dogs, for which
+there has hitherto been no remedy. It is a curious
+fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the Eskimo,
+and no man bitten by one of these dogs during a mad
+fit has ever suffered permanent injury from its effects.
+Frequently whilst employed sledging, they have been
+attacked by violent fits, resembling cramp, completely
+prostrating them, causing them to roll over on their
+sides and foam at the mouth. On these occasions
+they would be freed from the sledge, which after a
+time they would follow, when they would be reharnessed
+and proceed as if nothing had occurred.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Colan devoted much of his time to the investigation
+of the nature and causes of this disease, and
+I have no doubt his researches will throw a flood of
+light over this matter that will prove of the greatest
+value to succeeding expeditions in the preservation
+of their dogs, and be the means of baffling the attacks
+of this insidious disease.</p>
+
+<p>The dogs when employed in dragging a sledge are
+always harnessed in line abreast, and never, as
+generally supposed, ahead of each other in tandem
+fashion.</p>
+
+<p>From six to ten or a dozen dogs form a team.
+They are capable of dragging as much as one hundred
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page80" id="page80"></a>80</span>
+and fifty pounds per dog; but this is rather an
+excessive load and should not be exacted for any
+length of time. So strong and enduring are they
+that they will frequently perform a journey, over
+smooth ice, of twenty-five or thirty miles a day with
+this load; but with light loads and level ice they
+have been known to travel as much as seventy and
+even a hundred miles in one day.</p>
+
+<p>There is something very exhilarating and exciting
+about dog sledging, so long as the weather is fine,
+temperature not too low, smooth level ice to travel
+over, and a light sledge to drag. But let all these
+various conditions be reversed, let the weather be
+thick and foggy, or a gale of wind blowing with a
+blinding snow-drift, a temperature of 50° below zero,
+rough hummocky ice to travel over, and a heavily
+laden sledge to be dragged by a tired and obstinate
+team, then dog sledging cannot be regarded as either
+a comfortable or desirable amusement.</p>
+
+<p>The sensation of dashing along on a light sledge at
+the rate of ten miles an hour, the fine snow flying
+into one&rsquo;s face as the dogs tear through it pell-mell in
+their headlong career, or perhaps plunging down the
+side of a steep ravine when the utmost caution is
+required to prevent the sledge from capsizing and
+toppling over on the top of the dogs, is both novel
+and delightful. But when obstacles such as hummocks
+and deep snow-drifts have to be encountered,
+especially with a low temperature, the reverse is the
+case. Directly the sledge receives the slightest check
+from either of these causes, the dogs lie down, and
+look at you in the most provoking manner. It is
+no use having recourse to the whip, for not all the
+flogging in the world will make them advance until
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page81" id="page81"></a>81</span>
+the obstacle has been removed, or the sledge carried
+over the difficulties that had retarded its progress.</p>
+
+<p>The whip is the main feature in dog driving. To
+be a good driver it is therefore necessary to use this
+implement in a dexterous manner. The lash is a
+thong of sealskin about eighteen or twenty feet long,
+attached to a short handle of about twelve inches
+in length. It is, in the hands of an experienced
+driver, a formidable weapon, the punishment that the
+dogs receive from it being often very severe. They
+are guided solely by it, and it is amusing to witness
+the cunning and intelligence displayed by the outside
+dogs, who invariably get more than their fair share
+of the lash, in dodging under the lines of the others
+and emerging somewhere in the midst of the team in
+order to escape from its terrible infliction. Another
+very annoying and distressing piece of work connected
+with dog sledging is clearing the lines, which in a
+short time become in a grievously entangled state
+from the constant dodging about of the dogs, and this
+it must be remembered has to be done with hands
+encased in thick woollen mitts, for to bare them
+would ensure serious frost-bites. In consequence
+of the amount of provisions that have of necessity
+to be carried for the use of the dogs, it is almost
+impossible to use them for long journeys. None
+were employed during the expedition by any of the
+extended sledge parties; but for short journeys, or
+when dispatch was required, they were invaluable.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1g" id="ft1g" href="#fa1g"><span class="fn">1</span></a> &ldquo;Flinching&rdquo; is a whaling term for cutting up a whale or walrus.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page82" id="page82"></a>82</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VIII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;He rose, the coast and country to survey,</p>
+<p class="i05">Anxious and eager to discover more.</p>
+<p class="i05">It looked a wild uncultivated shore,</p>
+<p class="i05">But whether human kind or beast alone</p>
+<p class="i05">Possessed the new-found region was unknown.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Virgil</span>.</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Thursday</span>, <i>August 12th.</i>&mdash;Early this morning, the floes
+opening slightly, an attempt was made to proceed;
+but it was a futile one, the ice remaining perfectly
+impenetrable. This delay is naturally causing anxiety,
+as our fuel is rapidly disappearing, from the constant
+demand for steam, and the navigable season is also as
+rapidly waning, young ice forming alongside the ship
+nearly an inch in thickness. Patience, combined with
+caution and perseverance, is an indispensable qualification
+for an Arctic navigator. At the same time he
+must be prepared, when occasion offers, to make a
+bold dash. Quick determination and an ever-ready
+eye to seize upon any available opportunity are also
+necessary attributes of the explorer who hopes to
+achieve success in ice navigation. Without them
+failure is inevitable.</p>
+
+<p>In the forenoon both ships were slightly nipped.
+We succeeded in unshipping our rudder in time; but
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page83" id="page83"></a>83</span>
+the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; receiving the squeeze more astern,
+had her rudder very severely injured. She was
+enabled, however, to patch it up sufficiently for temporary
+use and thus avoid the necessity of shifting it.
+In the afternoon the ice began to move to the eastward,
+enabling us once more to make a start. Hastily
+shipping our rudders we got under weigh, and having
+bored through a few streams of ice emerged into a fine
+lead of water extending between the land and the
+pack. Passing Cape D&rsquo;Urville, we opened a large
+inlet. At its head was a deep ravine, containing two
+large glaciers which, running respectively from N.E.
+and N.W., met and formed one terminal face. At
+9 <span class="scs">P.M.</span> the southern extreme of Dobbin Bay, called
+Cape Hawks, was passed. This is a magnificent
+promontory, which has, with some propriety, been
+compared, in appearance, to the Rock of Gibraltar.</p>
+
+<p>It was a beautifully calm night as both ships
+silently rounded this bold headland, the water so still
+and unruffled that it was actually used as an artificial
+horizon for the purpose of taking an astronomical
+observation. The Cape itself towered over our heads
+as we steamed past, its reflection in the still quiet
+water being clearly visible, whilst deep ravines on
+either side stretched away apparently for miles into
+the interior, until lost amid the snow-shining mountains
+in the far distance. A large glacier at the head
+of the bay showed out prominently as it glistened in
+the light of a bright midnight sun, the bay itself being
+covered with an icy sheet, broken only by a few long
+low bergs, generated, in all probability, from the selfsame
+glacier. The few clouds that were visible in the
+almost cloudless sky presented an exquisite iridescence
+rarely witnessed, exhibiting clearly defined bright
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page84" id="page84"></a>84</span>
+colours, extending in bands in a horizontal direction,
+the reflection of which in the clear pellucid water
+materially enhanced the beauties of the landscape.
+Such a scene, with all its surroundings, could scarcely
+be equalled in beauty, certainly not surpassed, even
+in sunny Italy.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:785px; height:729px" src="images/img108.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">CAPE HAWKS.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Making the ships fast to an iceberg, preparations
+for landing a large depôt of provisions, similar to the
+one established at the Cary Islands, were immediately
+commenced. A jolly-boat, obtained from the &ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo;
+was also deposited here. We have now two
+large depôts, besides boats, established in our rear,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page85" id="page85"></a>85</span>
+sufficient to sustain a large party for many days,
+should any untoward accident befall our ship.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst engaged in these operations, an adjacent
+island&mdash;Washington Irving Island&mdash;was visited, and a
+large cairn erected on its summit. Our surprise may
+be imagined when, on reaching the top, the remains of
+an old cairn were discovered. At first its origin was
+attributed to Hayes, who visited the island in 1860,
+but on closer inspection evidences of a construction at
+a much earlier date were palpable, the stones of which
+it was composed being covered with lichen, denoting
+great age. Hayes, in the published account of his
+voyage, makes no mention either of having seen this
+cairn or of having built one on the island. It was,
+undoubtedly, the work of white men&rsquo;s hands; the
+object and necessity for building cairns is unknown,
+and therefore not practised, by the Eskimos. How
+then came this structure in such a remote and desolate
+part of the world? Can it be the work of some obscure
+navigator of years gone by, who erected this monument
+as a memento of his visit, but who never
+returned to relate the results of his adventurous
+voyage? This must for ever remain a mystery!</p>
+
+<p>Of course it was quickly demolished and its site
+subjected to a very careful search, in the hopes of discovering
+some record or clue by which its history
+might be ascertained; but nothing was found, and we
+were forced to content ourselves with reconstructing it
+on a larger scale, and depositing a record at its base
+detailing the movements of the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The depôt having been landed, the ships were
+moved a little farther up the bay, although, to effect
+this, we were compelled to have recourse to powder,
+in order to &ldquo;blast&rdquo; a passage through the ice. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page86" id="page86"></a>86</span>
+recent tracks of a bear were observed on the floe,
+being the only indications of the presence of these
+animals that we had observed since leaving Melville
+Bay. It naturally caused a little excitement amongst
+our sportsmen and would-be bear slayers.</p>
+
+<p>The formation of the land around Dobbin Bay
+appeared curiously contorted; the stratifications
+dipping, in some places, to the westward at an angle
+of about 18°, whilst at others they assumed a perfectly
+horizontal direction. This irregularity of the strata
+may probably be accounted for by the trap, or other
+primary rock, forcing its way upwards through the
+limestone formation. Where these contortions appear
+the colour changes from the sombre grey of the
+surrounding limestone to a bright red and brownish
+hue.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, it being deemed expedient for the
+safety of the ships that they should be docked, the
+requisite instructions were given, and in four hours
+they were securely placed in two large commodious
+docks, cut out of the solid floe.</p>
+
+<p>The process of docking is rendered necessary to
+prevent a ship from being crushed between two floes
+should she be so unfortunate as to be placed between
+them with the whole force of the pack driving against
+the outer one. This operation is frequently necessary
+whilst following the land-ice, although in these days
+of steam it is not so frequently practised as of old.</p>
+
+<p>Our ice-saw crews had previously been organized,
+and, as it is absolutely necessary that the work of
+construction should be carried out with the utmost
+expedition, the whole of the officers and ship&rsquo;s company
+were stationed so as to take an active part in the proceedings.
+The instant the order was given for &ldquo;all
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page87" id="page87"></a>87</span>
+hands to cut dock&rdquo; a most animated scene ensued.
+Triangles were quickly erected, saws placed in position,
+the dock measured and marked out by boarding-pikes
+placed at the several corners, and every one
+working as if their lives depended upon their own
+individual exertions. Three persons only were left on
+board the ship&mdash;namely, one officer in charge of the
+deck, the engineer at the engines, and a man at the
+helm&mdash;and, as it was necessary to keep the ship constantly
+moving so as to avoid pieces of ice, and also
+to place her in a good position for being docked, these
+three had no sinecure offices.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally a jet of water, followed by a loud
+report and a shower of fragmentary ice, showed that
+powder was used to shatter the larger pieces of ice that
+had been cut, but unless great care is taken in the use
+of this explosive, it is liable to damage the sides of
+the dock.</p>
+
+<p>This was our first attempt at dock cutting, which
+will account for the time occupied in its construction.
+Ordinarily the work should be completed in about a
+couple of hours. When two or more ships are in company
+time is saved by employing all hands to cut one
+dock large enough to take in all the ships.</p>
+
+<p>The diagram on next page will serve to illustrate the
+system employed by us whilst engaged in making one
+of these docks. The last triangular piece of ice that
+is taken out&mdash;namely, the portion marked on the plan
+by the letters C B F&mdash;is removed intact, and being
+placed across the entrance serves to close the dock
+and thus keep out all stray pieces of ice.</p>
+
+<p>After four hours of such work as dock cutting
+entails, it was poor comfort for us to return on board
+wet, cold, and hungry, only to find that our fires had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page88" id="page88"></a>88</span>
+been allowed to burn out, and that we could neither
+get a cup of tea to refresh ourselves with, nor a chance
+of warming ourselves at
+the stove.<a name="fa1h" id="fa1h" href="#ft1h"><span class="sp">1</span></a> The Eskimo
+dogs, being turned out
+on the floe and tied to
+one of our anchor lines,
+made night hideous by
+their dreary and lamentable
+wailing.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:398px; height:637px" src="images/img112.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption"></td></tr></table>
+
+<table class="nobctr f90" style="width: 50%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcc sc">plan of ice dock.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>No. 1 saw cuts from A to B 200 ft.</p></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>No. 2 &emsp;&emsp;&rdquo; &emsp;&emsp;&rdquo; &emsp;D to C 200 ft.</p></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>No. 3 &emsp;&emsp;&rdquo; &emsp;&emsp;&rdquo; &emsp;B to C 35 ft.,
+and then on to F 115 ft.</p></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>No. 4 saw cuts from F to D 120 ft.,
+and, if necessary, from E to F
+48 ft.</p></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class="nobctr f90" style="width: 50%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcc pt2" colspan="2"><span class="sc">Dimensions of Dock.</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Length</td> <td class="tcl">200 ft.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Breadth, at entrance</td> <td class="tcl">&ensp;65 &rdquo;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Ditto, at head</td> <td class="tcl">&ensp;35 &rdquo;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pt2">For two days were
+the ships kept close prisoners;
+but on Sunday,
+August 15th, as soon
+as divine service was
+finished, a large party
+of men was actively
+engaged in cutting and
+blasting a passage between
+the floe in which
+we were imprisoned and
+the shore, for a lead of
+water had been observed
+in the channel which we
+were naturally desirous
+of reaching. Although
+Sunday was as much as
+possible observed as a
+day of rest, it was quite
+out of the question to a
+party situated as we
+were altogether to abstain from work on the Sabbath.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page89" id="page89"></a>89</span>
+Our navigable season, we knew, was a short one; no
+opportunity could we afford to lose; and therefore we
+were compelled to work as much on Sunday as on
+week-days should circumstances arise which would
+make it necessary for us to do so. After about nine
+hours&rsquo; hard work we succeeded in making a passage
+sufficiently broad for the ships to pass through. Our
+last explosion was a most effective one; no less than
+eight blasting charges, or torpedoes, were exploded
+simultaneously&mdash;these varied in size from five to
+twelve pound charges.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:798px; height:526px" src="images/img113.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;THE MOANING OF THE TIED.&rdquo;</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The result of this, designated by the men, &ldquo;feu de
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page90" id="page90"></a>90</span>
+joy&rdquo; was wonderful; the floe split and cracked in all
+directions, enabling us with our long ice points and
+poles to clear a splendid channel. Hauling the ships
+out of dock, we steamed through the passage and into
+a fine stream of water round Cape Louis Napoleon.
+So narrow, however, was our channel that in rounding
+the point, to our great dismay, the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo;
+grounded. A delay at this moment might have proved
+fatal to us, and it was therefore with no small amount
+of satisfaction, after a short detention, that we observed
+her again afloat. Our joy at being again on
+the move was short-lived. A few hours sufficed to
+bring us to the edge of a field of ice, to penetrate
+which seemed utterly impossible. To cut a dock in
+such ice, the floes being from ten to twenty feet in
+thickness, was also out of the question, even had we
+been provided with saws sufficiently long to do so.
+Blasting was resorted to, and by this means we were
+enabled to secure the ship in a small indentation in
+the ice that afforded some slight protection. So high
+was the ice that our boats, hanging from the midship
+davits on the outside of the ship, had to be turned inboard
+to prevent their being crushed. For three days
+were we kept in a state of feverish excitement without
+being able to make any progress, and yet constantly
+moving the ship to avoid destruction from drifting
+bergs and closing floes.</p>
+
+<p>The shore was frequently visited, and the heights of
+Mount Joy and Cape Hayes ascended; but always the
+same scene met our view to northward&mdash;an impassable
+plain of ice.</p>
+
+<p>Twice in one day were the ships nearly destroyed.
+A large iceberg that was aground close to us, and
+therefore protecting us from the pack, suddenly floated
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page91" id="page91"></a>91</span>
+and drifted away. This released a large floe to which
+we were secured, and with which we drifted down
+rapidly towards another large berg that remained
+aground. It was an anxious time for us, for in five
+minutes, unless we could move out of the way, we
+must be inevitably crushed between the two. All
+hands were quickly summoned, a line laid out astern
+and made fast to some large hummocks, and by this
+we fortunately succeeded in hauling the ship clear;
+but only just in time, for as our bowsprit cleared the
+berg, the floe came into contact with it with such
+irresistible force that hummock was piled upon
+hummock in a truly alarming manner. Had we
+been caught, nothing short of a miracle could have
+saved us.</p>
+
+<p>The noise of the ice as it squeezed against the berg
+was anything but pleasant to listen to; but still it
+was better than hearing our own timbers crashing to
+pieces in the same manner, and we all experienced a
+strong feeling of relief when the danger was past.</p>
+
+<p>Little rest was enjoyed by any on these days during
+which we were subjected to the wayward will of the
+pack. Unshipping and replacing the rudder, and
+lifting and lowering the screw, were duties that had
+to be carried out several times during each day, and,
+although this sort of work is rather depressing and
+irksome, the spirits of the crew never flagged. They
+were always ready, cheerful, and willing. No matter
+what duty they were called upon to perform, it was
+invariably carried out in the same zealous, hearty
+manner that was so conspicuously manifested during
+the whole period of the absence of the expedition as
+to elicit the unbounded praise and confidence of their
+leader.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page92" id="page92"></a>92</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 19th of August the ice slackened sufficiently
+to enable us to proceed, and on that evening, to the
+intense delight of every one, we succeeded in rounding
+Cape Fraser.</p>
+
+<p>During the last three weeks we had advanced
+exactly ninety miles, or at the rate of about four
+and a quarter miles a day. This cannot be considered
+a rapid rate of travelling, yet to accomplish
+even this necessitated a constant and vigilant look-out.</p>
+
+<p>Cape Fraser is a bold promontory some thousand
+feet in height, terminating in a short projecting point
+of land about two hundred feet above the level of the
+sea. Above the talus appeared numerous caves in
+the cliffs, a peculiarity noticed for the first time, and
+the summit was studded with irregularities that, to
+an imaginative mind, might be perverted into gigantic
+beings, animals, or castellated towers. On one of
+these ridges was a heap of stones supposed to represent
+the &ldquo;Twelve Apostles,&rdquo; and was so marked on the
+chart; but as we could never distinguish more than
+half the number at one time from any point of bearing,
+it was generally supposed on board that they adhered
+to true man-of-war regulations, and only appeared in
+their &ldquo;watch on deck,&rdquo; half the number belonging of
+course to the watch below!</p>
+
+<p>At 10 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>, being again temporarily stopped, the
+ships were secured in a little harbour called Maury
+Bay. During our detention in the vicinity of Cape
+Fraser, we were able to confirm the observations
+made by Dr. Bessels of the &ldquo;Polaris,&rdquo; relative to the
+meeting of two tides at or about this point. This
+fact materially strengthens the argument in favour
+of the insularity of Greenland, for it has been deduced
+from a series of tidal observations obtained by us
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page93" id="page93"></a>93</span>
+that the tide to the northward of Cape Fraser&mdash;that
+is, the tide in Kennedy and Robeson Channels&mdash;is
+undoubtedly the same as the North Atlantic one, and
+therefore flows along the northern coast of Greenland.</p>
+
+<p>Contrary to what might generally be expected, we
+did not encounter any very great accumulation of
+broken up ice in consequence of the meeting of these
+two tides: not more than would be caused by the fact
+of the channel decreasing in size to the northward at
+this point, and therefore offering greater obstruction
+to the ice whilst drifting northward, but facilitating
+its general drift, which is to the southward.</p>
+
+<p>From the summit of Cape John Barrow, which
+forms one extreme of the little bay in which we
+were secured, we obtained a good view, and one
+which delighted and gladdened our hearts.</p>
+
+<p>Northwards we could see as far as Cape L. von
+Buch; between us leads of water, although covered
+with much loose ice. To the eastward we could
+plainly distinguish Cape Constitution, with a large
+sheet of water along its base; but to get to it we
+should have had to penetrate a large expanse of pack.
+This pool of water was in all probability similar to
+one seen by Morton in the same place in 1855, and
+reported by him as an &ldquo;open Polar sea,&rdquo; on which
+many imaginative theories have been based!</p>
+
+<p>Our return to the ship was not accomplished without
+much difficulty, in consequence of our little harbour
+of refuge having filled with drifting ice, during the
+time we were on shore, which beset our boat. We
+were therefore compelled to haul and drag it over and
+through innumerable fragments of ice, reaching the
+ship wet and fatigued, but delighted with the intelligence
+we possessed and the prospect of pushing on.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page94" id="page94"></a>94</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, August 20th.</i>&mdash;At one o&rsquo;clock this morning,
+being the top of high water, we made another
+start.</p>
+
+<p>Taking advantage of the different broad lanes of
+water, we steamed rapidly past Cape Norton Shaw,
+and opened out Scoresby Bay&mdash;a grand harbour that
+would suit admirably for a ship&rsquo;s winter quarters,
+provided animal life existed. From the appearance
+of the land we imagined that game would be found in
+large quantities. A perfect cone-shaped hill on the
+north-west side is a very prominent feature of this
+bay. Indeed, the entire coast along which we are
+passing is composed of long ranges of hills more or
+less coniform, varying from one to two thousand feet
+in height. The coast line is very imperfectly delineated
+on our charts, the distance between the various
+bays and headlands are erroneous, and the positions
+are wrong; the error always being that they are
+placed too much to the northward.</p>
+
+<p>Off Cape McClintock we had another narrow escape
+from being severely nipped, in consequence of attempting
+to pass through a channel between two closing
+floes. Although jammed for a short time, the pressure
+was not very great, and, the nip easing, the ship was
+released. Passing Cape Collinson we were again
+obliged to make fast to a large floe, as all the leads
+to the northward had closed up, thereby preventing
+farther progress.</p>
+
+<p>The ice was moving rapidly to the southward&mdash;the
+whole pack drifting bodily&mdash;at the rate of from one
+and a half to two knots an hour. The floe to which
+we were secured was kept stationary by a couple of
+grounded icebergs that effectually resisted all its
+efforts to extricate itself. This rapid drift seemed to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page95" id="page95"></a>95</span>
+indicate the presence of a &ldquo;North Water,&rdquo; or at any
+rate a very loose pack.</p>
+
+<p>Advantage was taken of our temporary delay to
+establish a small depôt of provisions, consisting of
+two hundred and forty rations, near Cape Collinson,
+for the use of a travelling party which, according to
+existing arrangements, would be dispatched to the
+southward by the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; during the following
+year, for the purpose of visiting Cape Isabella, and
+bringing up any letters that might have been deposited
+there for us.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, August 21st.</i>&mdash;Lanes of water appearing
+continuous to the northward, we got under weigh at
+half-past two this morning; but after two or three
+hours&rsquo; boring and working under steam and sail we
+were forced to relinquish the attempt, being unable to
+penetrate the pack in the direction we wished to proceed.
+We therefore returned to our former anchorage, under
+the lea of a friendly berg, the ice continuing to drift
+south with marvellous rapidity.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst detained here we were assailed by some
+furious squalls from the S.E., accompanied by a
+heavy fall of snow. During one of these the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo;
+was blown away from her anchors, and it
+was with no little difficulty that she was again secured
+to the floe in safety. Thinking we should be able to
+reach some open water to the northward by the
+removal of the large floe to which we were fast, both
+ships&rsquo; companies were employed in sawing off a large
+piece of it, which, impinging on one of the stranded
+icebergs, would, it was thought, release the floe if
+detached. The distance to cut through was one
+thousand feet. Notwithstanding the magnitude of
+the undertaking, every one set to work with a will
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page96" id="page96"></a>96</span>
+and resolution that betokened confidence in being able
+to succeed in anything that was required of them.</p>
+
+<p>Before the work was fairly commenced the ice
+appeared to slack to the eastward, and the captain,
+abandoning his former intention, determined to seek
+a passage through the pack instead of hugging the
+coast.</p>
+
+<p>Getting under weigh at 9.30 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>, we bored through
+a large extent of slack ice, into a fine piece of open
+water, which, when reached, we found possessed no
+outlet. It was a perfect salt-water lake surrounded
+by ice. In this we were obliged to dodge about under
+sail, waiting patiently for the ice to open and thus
+allow us a free passage.</p>
+
+<p>As we proceed northwards the ice appears to be
+heavier and more formidable, and animal life seems
+to be getting more scarce. Few birds are seen.
+Occasionally the head of an inquisitive seal is protruded
+out of the water, but immediately withdrawn
+(if not killed) on being saluted by half a dozen bullets
+from the rifles of our keen and enthusiastic sportsmen,
+who are for ever on the watch to display their prowess
+in their endeavours to procure food for our dogs, by
+shooting these animals, who thus pay for their curiosity
+with their lives.</p>
+
+<p>We appeared to be leaving the region of icebergs, for,
+although those met with lately were of great size,
+they were few in number. The one affording us
+protection this forenoon was no less than six hundred
+feet in length.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1h" id="ft1h" href="#fa1h"><span class="fn">1</span></a> An amusing story is related of one of the officers. Whilst engaged
+in cutting the dock, he, without thinking, put his pipe in his trousers
+pocket, so as to enable him the more readily to work at his ice-saw.
+Feeling, after a time, a little warm about his legs, he attributed it to
+his exertions in working the saw, until a sharp and intolerable pain
+caused him to put his hand into his pocket. This speedily afforded an
+explanation: his pipe, being still alight, had burnt a hole through
+his trousers and shirt and was burning his leg!</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page97" id="page97"></a>97</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER IX.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">KENNEDY CHANNEL.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed">
+<p><i>2nd Keeper.</i>&mdash;&ldquo;I&rsquo;ll stay above the hill so both may shoot.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><i>1st Keeper.</i>&mdash;&ldquo;That cannot be: the noise of thy cross-bow will scare
+the herd, and so my shoot is lost. Here stand we both, and aim we
+at the best.&rdquo;&mdash;<i>Henry VI.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Within a long recess there lies a bay,</p>
+<p class="i05">An island shades it from the rolling sea,</p>
+<p class="i05">And forms a port secure for ships to ride,</p>
+<p class="i05">Broke by the jutting land on either side.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Virgil.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Sunday</span>, <i>August 22nd.</i>&mdash;The rapidity of the changes
+that take place in these icy seas is almost inconceivable.
+In a few hours from being helplessly imprisoned
+by a dense pack of ice, we were actually
+plying, under steam and sail, in a vast expanse of
+water containing only a few loose streams of ice,
+through which we had no difficulty in penetrating.
+Our predictions were indeed realized, and to a greater
+extent than we had even anticipated. We had reached
+a &ldquo;North Water,&rdquo; in which we were sensible of a very
+perceptible motion on board the ship. It is true that
+the pack, apparently as solid and as impenetrable as
+ever, extended along the west side of Kennedy Channel;
+but to the northward and along the east side was a
+clear and open sea, free of ice, with its surface agitated
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page98" id="page98"></a>98</span>
+by the fresh northerly wind that was blowing, and
+rising and falling with true oceanic undulations.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately for us, at least so far as making
+headway was concerned, the wind was not only very
+strong but directly ahead, compelling us to beat to
+windward under steam and fore and aft sails. We
+consoled ourselves, however, with the hope that the
+same wind would blow all the ice to the southward,
+and thus enable us to make good progress. The
+temperature being some six or seven degrees below
+freezing point caused us to feel the sharp wind in a
+very unpleasant manner, and made both the crow&rsquo;s-nest
+and bridge very disagreeable places of resort.
+The pleasure of feeling that we were really doing good
+work was, however, sufficient compensation for the
+discomfort that was felt.</p>
+
+<p>Stretching over to the eastern side of the channel
+we passed close to Crozier Island, having Cape Constitution
+full in view. Its appearance coincides
+exactly with the description given by Morton.</p>
+
+<p>This cape is the northern extreme of a bay called,
+by Kane, Lafayette Bay. It is steep and precipitous,
+and has no ice-foot adhering. Indeed, the base of
+the headland, as well as the adjacent one, Cape
+Independence, has the appearance of having been
+partially undermined by the action of the sea, thus
+forming an overhanging terrace, up which it would be
+impossible to ascend. Morton found its ascent totally
+impracticable, on account of the steep and rugged
+nature of the cliff. We were unable to detect any
+signs of a <i>mer de glace</i> over this land, although a
+light tinge along the summit to the southward of
+Lafayette Bay would lead one to suppose that it
+existed. This, however, was the only indication of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page99" id="page99"></a>99</span>
+an ice-cap that was perceived, and it was one on
+which little or no reliance was placed.</p>
+
+<p>The positions of the various points along this coast
+are very fairly correct, being as nearly as possible in
+the latitudes ascribed to them by Dr. Bessels of the
+&ldquo;Polaris,&rdquo; affording a striking contrast to the places
+on the opposite side of the channel, where the positions
+are so egregiously inaccurate. The deep inlet on the
+American chart called Carl Ritter Bay was not to be
+seen. The only indentation in the land in its assigned
+position was Richardson Bay, which we must naturally
+conclude was the one seen and named Carl Ritter by
+Dr. Hayes.</p>
+
+<p>It was a curious fact that, whereas the land on the
+west side of the channel was completely covered with
+snow, the land on the east side was entirely free.
+This was not the only peculiar feature in which the
+two sides of the channel differed. Although apparently
+of the same geological formation, there was
+a great dissimilarity between the physical appearance
+of the land on either side. That on the east was flat
+and table-topped, rising to the height of about one
+thousand feet, separated into hills by broad valleys,
+whilst the stratification of the cliffs was regular and
+horizontal. That on the west side was, on the contrary,
+composed of conical-shaped hills, rising to an
+altitude of from two to four thousand feet, and intersected
+by deep ravines, whilst the stratifications were
+so distorted that the dip varied as much as from 10°
+to 45°.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst the land on the east side appeared to have
+undergone a regular and steady upheaval, that on the
+west seemed to have been raised suddenly, the deep
+ravines between the numerous hills resembling the
+beds of ancient and extinct glaciers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page100" id="page100"></a>100</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, August 23rd.</i>&mdash;A glorious run has been
+made during the last twenty-four hours, assisted, for
+a short time, as we have been, by a strong southerly
+wind; but alas! by 10 <span class="scs">A.M.</span> we arrived at the end of
+our tether!</p>
+
+<p>Passing the entrance to Bessels Bay, we reached
+Cape Morton, from whence extended right across Hall
+Basin our implacable enemy, the ice&mdash;solid floes of
+immense area stretching to the northward as far as
+the eye could reach, with no opening, no outlet of any
+description, and no indications of water.</p>
+
+<p>Polaris Bay was ahead of us, and we could plainly
+discern the position of the Americans&rsquo; winter quarters;
+but with no hopes, for the present, of our reaching so
+far. We must again, as we have so often had to do
+before, exercise our patience, and wait for a more
+favourable opportunity for pushing on. The strong
+southerly wind now blowing will, in all probability,
+be succeeded by a calm or a breeze from the northward,
+either of which will have the effect of opening
+the ice. The &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; having landed a small
+depôt of two hundred and forty rations at Cape
+Morton, for the use of travelling parties that will
+hereafter be dispatched for the purpose of exploring
+Petermann Fiord, both ships made sail and beat
+back to Bessels Bay, where we dropped anchor in
+seven fathoms, just inside, and under the protection
+of Hannah Island.</p>
+
+<p>Bessels Bay is a long and narrow indentation in
+the land, extending in a N.W. and S.E. direction,
+having numerous small glaciers on either side, the
+majority of them discharging ones. The bay is in
+consequence nearly choked with small bergs.</p>
+
+<p>This bay or fiord gives one the idea of having been
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page101" id="page101"></a>101</span>
+originally the bed of some large glacier, now extinct,
+whilst Hannah Island, which lies directly across its
+mouth, has every appearance of having been its
+terminal moraine, not only from its position, but also
+from its composition, for it consists of an immense
+heap of pebbles and drift, possessing apparently no
+determined basis, no underlying rock.</p>
+
+<p>We were also able to observe here the undoubted
+<i>mer de glace</i> under which Greenland is supposed to be
+buried, and whose outpourings in this locality find
+their escape in Petermann Fiord and Bessels Bay.</p>
+
+<p>A few eider-ducks, a seal, and some dovekies, with
+an ivory gull, were seen to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Feilden and Mr. Parr landed on the
+northern side of the bay, and, ascending a high hill,
+obtained a good and unobstructed view to the northward.
+Their report was very desponding&mdash;ice, nothing
+but ice, as far as they could see.</p>
+
+<p>From what we can now observe, the land on the
+western side of Hall Basin appears to end abruptly
+somewhere about Cape Union, and does not continue
+to the northward, as represented in the last American
+Chart. I put no belief in the land reported to have
+been seen by some of the men of the &ldquo;Polaris,&rdquo; and
+named President Land. Should the land terminate,
+as I anticipate, in about lat. 83° N. our chance of
+reaching a high latitude will of course be much
+reduced, although we shall have a grand field of exploration
+to the eastward and westward.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening the captain and myself visited
+Hannah Island, and erected a cairn, in which a
+record detailing our movements was deposited, on its
+summit, in the most conspicuous place about the
+centre of the island. Here we had an uninterrupted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page102" id="page102"></a>102</span>
+view to the northward; but what we saw only confirmed
+the report brought on board in the earlier part
+of the day. The western side of the channel appeared
+free of ice as far as Cape Lieber, and a lane of water
+was visible extending from us as far as this cape. By
+this stream of water appears our only chance of
+getting on.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, August 24th.</i>&mdash;The captain left the ship
+early this morning to ascend the hill immediately
+above Cape Morton (two thousand feet in height), in
+order to ascertain from the nature of the ice what our
+prospects of pushing on were likely to be. During
+his absence a haul with the dredge was obtained, but
+with unimportant results: the continual movement of
+icebergs in the bay, all more or less aground, would
+hardly admit of much organic life at the bottom.
+Fossils abounded in the limestone on shore, and a
+large collection of specimens was made.</p>
+
+<p>At noon the captain was observed, in his boat, off
+Cape Morton, with the signal flying for the ships &ldquo;to
+weigh.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>His orders were speedily executed; and, having
+picked him up, we were soon running quickly across
+to the western side. He gave us the very pleasing
+information that from the summit of Cape Morton he
+had observed a magnificent lead of water along the
+west coast, and extending in all probability as far as
+Cape Beechey. This was indeed delightful intelligence,
+and served to raise the social barometer many
+degrees.</p>
+
+<p>Our coal was rapidly diminishing, and we knew
+that many more days of steaming such as those we
+had lately had would reduce our fuel to such an
+extent that we could hope to do little more; for without
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page103" id="page103"></a>103</span>
+steam a vessel in these latitudes would indeed be
+helpless.</p>
+
+<p>11 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>&mdash;Oh, the hopes and disappointments that
+we poor Arctic explorers have to endure! First of
+all a confiding anticipation in the future makes us
+joyous and expectant, and then we are plunged into
+the lowest depths of despondency.</p>
+
+<p>Two hours ago we were steaming through a grand
+expanse of water, looking forward with confidence to
+reaching, in a few hours, Cape Beechey, or perhaps
+even Cape Union, both being distinctly visible ahead,
+whilst Capes Brevoort, Sumner, and Stanton were in
+sight on our starboard bow.</p>
+
+<p>Passing Cape Baird, however, we were again met
+by our insatiable enemy, the ice, which defied all our
+efforts to penetrate it.</p>
+
+<p>We are now slowly picking our way across Lady
+Franklin Strait towards Cape Bellot, in the hope of
+being able to reach some place of security where we
+can remain patiently until a northerly wind shall have
+cleared a passage for us. Whilst crossing Kennedy
+Channel we obtained a magnificent view up Petermann
+Fiord. It is an extensive opening, with no
+land visible at its head. This is a geographical
+problem which we hope we shall soon be able to
+solve. It is difficult to determine at present whether
+Lady Franklin Strait is really a strait or a deep inlet.
+We are inclined to the latter belief. This is another
+question we hope will soon be satisfactorily settled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, August 25th.</i>&mdash;At one o&rsquo;clock this morning,
+whilst threading our way amongst the ice-floes
+that bordered the coast, a herd of musk oxen was
+observed browsing quietly on an adjacent hill. Such
+an opportunity for obtaining fresh meat was not to be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page104" id="page104"></a>104</span>
+disregarded. A shooting party was quickly organized,
+and, whilst the boats were being prepared and the
+hunters getting ready their rifles, the ships were taken
+into a beautifully snug and land-locked harbour,
+protected at its mouth by a large island, situated on
+the northern coast of Lady Franklin Bay.</p>
+
+<p>Here the anchors were let go, and the sportsmen
+despatched in quest of the game.</p>
+
+<p>Separating into three distinct parties on landing,
+we advanced cautiously towards the spot where they
+were last seen grazing, hoping to be able to surround
+and capture the entire herd. Not only did we all
+enter keenly into the sport, but our mouths watered
+at the prospect of again indulging in fresh meat. We
+pictured to ourselves smoking-hot beefsteaks and
+savoury calf&rsquo;s liver, dainties that we had for some
+time been strangers to, being prepared for us after
+our return to the ship, never even dreaming of a
+chance of returning empty-handed.</p>
+
+<p>The disposition of our force was well calculated, for
+the musk oxen being alarmed, in all probability by
+the blowing off of steam from one of the ships, started
+in full flight in the direction of a deep ravine. Here
+they were met by a couple of the hunters, who discharging
+their rifles dropped two of the herd. The
+remainder turned and dashed up the side of a steep
+hill, but only to be met by two more sportsmen, who
+made such good use of their time and weapons, that
+they succeeded in shooting the remainder, seven in
+number.</p>
+
+<p>One of the first brought down was the bull of the
+herd, a noble fellow; but so tenacious of life that
+several shots had to be expended, at a very short
+range, before he bit the dust.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page105" id="page105"></a>105</span></p>
+
+<p>Elated with our success, and having sent back to
+the ship for assistance in conveying the meat on board,
+we commenced skinning, cleaning, and cutting up the
+animals, so as to guard against the possibility of any
+delay in doing so being the means of tainting the flesh
+with the disagreeable musky odour. This, in consequence
+of the scarcity of knives amongst the party,
+was a long and tedious process; however, by nine
+o&rsquo;clock we had the satisfaction of seeing our &ldquo;morning&rsquo;s
+bag&rdquo; safely on board, amounting altogether to
+2,124 lbs. of good fresh meat. Not a bad morning&rsquo;s
+work!</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:791px; height:731px" src="images/img129.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">MUSK OXEN.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page106" id="page106"></a>106</span></p>
+
+<p>These animals, from peculiarities they possess, are
+placed in a genus between the sheep and the ox, and
+are called <i>ovibos moschatus</i>. They are only met with
+in high latitudes, although traces of them, it is
+reported, have been seen as far south as 59° N. lat.,
+but they are rarely seen in any numbers lower than
+67° N. lat.</p>
+
+<p>They have been seen, and shot, in large numbers,
+by the various search expeditions wintering at and
+about Melville Island, and they were also obtained
+on the opposite side of Kennedy Channel by the
+&ldquo;Polaris&rdquo; in 1872. The crew of this latter vessel
+succeeded in shooting twenty-six during the twelve
+months they passed in this latitude. They are
+gregarious, usually wandering in small herds, although
+occasionally single specimens are found. The herd
+just obtained by us consisted of one old bull and four
+old cows, and two young bulls and two young cows.
+They subsist on the scant vegetation of these regions&mdash;principally
+grasses and lichens&mdash;which they scrape
+up from under the snow, when the ground is covered.
+They hardly give one the impression of being very
+quick and agile, yet they ascend hills and climb over
+rocks and rough surfaces with great ease. They are
+reputed to be very irascible, and have frequently
+been known, when wounded, to attack a hunter and
+seriously endanger his life. The horns are very
+broad, covering the brow and crown of the head, and
+meeting at their base. Our bullets appeared to have
+no effect when fired at the head. From the bull we
+obtained no less than 385 lbs. of meat!</p>
+
+<p>Finding that the harbour in which the ships were
+anchored possessed all the necessary qualifications
+for rendering the winter quarters of a vessel in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page107" id="page107"></a>107</span>
+Arctic Regions comfortable and secure, Captain Nares
+selected this spot as the place in which he would
+leave the &ldquo;Discovery.&rdquo; It appeared in every way
+adapted for this purpose. A secure harbour, possessing
+two narrow entrances, with the water so shallow
+as to effectually prevent the larger and heavier pieces
+of ice from drifting into it, with a neighbourhood
+covered with a more luxuriant and richer vegetation
+than had hitherto been seen, and giving evidences
+of being well stocked with game&mdash;for, in addition to
+the musk oxen, numerous and recent traces of wolves,
+foxes, hares, and lemmings had been observed&mdash;the
+place seemed especially suited for passing the winter
+in; and its selection as the winter quarters of our
+consort was never regretted.</p>
+
+<p>We all feel that the navigable season is rapidly
+drawing to a close, and that very few more days are
+left us. During the last week the temperature has
+never been above the freezing point; and the young
+ice has been forming to an alarming extent, even at
+midday. An advance, if farther advance is to be
+made, will be better and more speedily accomplished
+with one ship only, than by having two to look after.
+The responsibility is lessened, whilst the knowledge
+that there is another ship to fall back upon, in case
+of accidents, removes all anxiety.</p>
+
+<p>When the decision that the two ships were to part
+company was promulgated, it was received with satisfaction,
+although we were all sorry to lose the companionship
+of our numerous friends. The evening
+was spent in an interchange of visits, and many a
+sincere and fervent &ldquo;God speed,&rdquo; with a silent but
+expressive squeeze of the hand, was exchanged between
+the officers and the men of the two Arctic ships.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page108" id="page108"></a>108</span></p>
+
+<p>In order to strengthen our force on board the
+&ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; and to have an extra sledge party for the
+purpose, if required, of communicating with our
+consort, an officer, Lieutenant Rawson, and seven
+men were received from the &ldquo;Discovery;&rdquo; the only
+thing that we were able to give in exchange being
+900 lbs. of the musk oxen just procured&mdash;a by no
+means despicable offering!</p>
+
+<p>Everything having been satisfactorily arranged, the
+&ldquo;Alert&rdquo; steamed away from Discovery Harbour on
+the morning of the 26th, exchanging hearty cheers
+with her consort as she passed; she hoisting the
+signal &ldquo;May Providence prosper your efforts,&rdquo; to
+which we replied &ldquo;Happy Winter;&rdquo; and thus we
+separated, happy in the knowledge that a safe refuge
+was established in our rear, with the unknown before
+us, fervently praying for a successful issue to our
+undertaking.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page109" id="page109"></a>109</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER X.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;And now there came both mist and snow,</p>
+<p class="i05">And it grew wondrous cold.</p>
+<p class="i05">And ice, mast high, came floating by,</p>
+<p class="i05">As green as emerald.</p>
+<p class="i05">And through the drifts, the snowy cliffs</p>
+<p class="i05">Did send a dismal sheen;</p>
+<p class="i05">Nor shapes of men, nor beasts we ken,</p>
+<p class="i05">The ice was all between.</p>
+
+<p class="i05 s" style="letter-spacing: 2em">* * * *</p>
+
+<p class="i05 s">With sloping masts and dripping prow,</p>
+<p class="i05">As who pursued with yell and blow,</p>
+<p class="i05">Still treads the shadow of his foe,</p>
+<p class="i05">And forwards bends his head,</p>
+<p class="i05">The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast,</p>
+<p class="i05">And <i>Northwards</i> aye we fled.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">Coleridge.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Now</span> that we are pursuing our solitary journey northwards,
+we can the more fully realize that our real
+work has commenced&mdash;the real work towards the
+achievement of that success which we all so ardently
+hope will crown our efforts.</p>
+
+<p>Now that we are alone we shall be the more ready
+to avail ourselves of every opening in the ice that
+may present itself, every little chance that may occur,
+which we should be unable to do, if hampered with a
+second ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page110" id="page110"></a>110</span></p>
+
+<p>We had hardly advanced three miles, in fact were
+still just inside the entrance to the harbour, when the
+ice, closing in round the point, barred all egress.
+In endeavouring to steer clear of these fragments,
+the ship grounded on a projecting spit off a small
+island, but sustained no injury, floating again immediately
+she was lightened. As farther advance was
+out of the question, for the present, in consequence
+of the pack having drifted in, the vessel was secured
+under the lee of a natural breakwater at the entrance
+to Discovery Harbour, ready to take advantage of the
+first opportunity of making a start that should offer.</p>
+
+<p>Accompanied by Feilden and Rawson, I made an
+expedition to Distant Cape, whence we obtained a
+good view of Robeson Channel; but it was anything
+but an inspiriting one. There appeared to be a
+perfect block of heavy ice right across to the Greenland
+coast, although a few thin blue lines, denoting
+streams of water, could be discerned radiating in
+the pack to the eastward, but apparently leading to
+nothing.</p>
+
+<p>Some terns, <i>Sterna Arctica</i>, were obtained on a
+small island, as also their young and eggs. The
+nests were simply little round holes, some in the
+snow, having a few small pebbles as a bed. Some
+knots, <i>Tringa Canutius</i>, were also obtained; but no
+amount of search was successful in discovering either
+the egg or the nest of this bird.</p>
+
+<p>A fine sheet of water, situated on the breakwater,
+being frozen over, afforded our skaters an opportunity
+of indulging in their favourite pastime, and of practising
+both the inside and outside edges to their
+hearts&rsquo; content.</p>
+
+<p>The following day was also one of enforced idleness,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page111" id="page111"></a>111</span>
+and no movement could be made with the
+ship.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:789px; height:567px" src="images/img135.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">KNOTS.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Snow fell heavily, much to our annoyance, as it
+prevented us from keeping a perfect watch on the
+ice in the channel, in consequence of its density.
+The ice was being set up Lady Franklin Bay at a
+great pace. Once during the day it appeared inclined
+to open and give us a chance of proceeding. The
+skaters and sportsmen were hurriedly called on
+board; but before steam could be raised the opportunity
+was lost. In navigating these waters it is
+necessary to be constantly on the alert, and prepared,
+at any moment, to take advantage of any chance that
+may occur; but with the small quantity of fuel we
+have remaining, it is also necessary to economize and
+husband that essential aid to advance as much as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page112" id="page112"></a>112</span>
+possible; our fires were therefore always kept low,
+except when the engines were actually working.</p>
+
+<p>A small fragment of driftwood was picked up on
+the island. It resembled some hard wood, but was
+so wasted and worn by attrition that it was impossible,
+without subjecting it to microscopic examination,
+to determine to what species it belonged.</p>
+
+<p>The large island off which we were secured, and
+which forms the main protection to Discovery Harbour,
+was named Bellot Island, after the distinguished
+young French naval officer who lost his life whilst
+zealously prosecuting the search for Sir John Franklin
+and his ill-fated companions.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, August 28th.</i>&mdash;A thick fog in the morning
+effectually frustrated all our hopes of advancing; but
+clearing up towards midday, we were rejoiced at seeing
+several leads through the ice in the direction of Cape
+Beechey.</p>
+
+<p>Steam was quickly raised; but, in attempting to
+cant, the ship took the ground, and much to our
+chagrin and disappointment remained immovable.
+This was indeed tantalizing, as we knew by sad experience
+how capricious were the motions of the ice,
+and that every moment was of the utmost value to us.</p>
+
+<p>Lightening the ship as much as possible, the rising
+tide floated her in about a couple of hours, and at
+5 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>, having hoisted up all our boats, we were again
+able to proceed.</p>
+
+<p>As we rounded the point we hoisted the colours and
+dipped them three times as a parting farewell to our
+consort, who had just time to whip up the signal
+&ldquo;Good luck&rdquo; before we were finally shut out from
+each other&rsquo;s view.</p>
+
+<p>Rounding Distant Cape, we found the channel full
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page113" id="page113"></a>113</span>
+of ice, some of the floes being very massive and of
+great extent; but between them existed narrow lanes
+of water, in some places choked by loose slack ice,
+through which we had little difficulty in penetrating,
+although at the expense of our rudder, which was so
+severely injured by the heavy nature of the ice as to
+be rendered almost useless.</p>
+
+<p>At midnight, when within about a mile of Cape
+Beechey, ice was encountered stretching right across
+the channel and pressing so tightly in to the land as
+to form a dead block to our farther advance. We
+had then by estimation reached the 82° parallel of
+latitude. This check was a great damper to our
+hopes, especially as no bays, or protection of any
+description for the ship from the pack, could be found
+in our immediate vicinity.</p>
+
+<p>Our only resource was to return a few miles to the
+southward and there, in a slight indentation of the
+land, affording little or no protection, secure the ship
+to an ice floe, and employ ourselves at once with the
+rather heavy operations connected with shifting the
+rudder. This work was performed in about three
+hours. In the mean time, a small herd of musk oxen
+having been observed on shore, our sportsmen were
+despatched in pursuit, and we soon had the satisfaction
+of hearing that they had succeeded in shooting
+three, the remainder of the herd having escaped over
+the hills. This was a very welcome addition to our
+stock of fresh meat. Our mizzen-rigging was now
+literally groaning with the amount of meat suspended
+there; for, in addition to the recent accumulation of
+musk-ox flesh, the remainder of our sheep, some
+seven or eight in number, had been slaughtered and
+added to the general stock. So hard were the portions
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page114" id="page114"></a>114</span>
+frozen, that they were very truthfully compared to
+the legs of mutton and sides of sheep made of wood
+usually seen hanging in the front of a butcher&rsquo;s shop
+in a pantomime!</p>
+
+<p>The bay in which we had taken refuge was, in consequence
+of the work there performed, named &ldquo;Shift-Rudder
+Bay.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, August 29th.</i>&mdash;At noon we were again under
+weigh, Captain Nares having ascended a high hill
+during the forenoon, from which he had observed an
+opening in the pack by which we might proceed.
+Cape Beechey was easily rounded; but, in consequence
+of the floes closing into the land, we had
+a very narrow escape of being caught whilst going
+round Cape Frederick VII., and it was only by
+pressing the ship at her utmost speed that we succeeded
+in rounding it in safety. Two minutes after
+we were round, the floe came into contact with the
+high steep side of the cape, crumbling against it and
+piling up hummock on hummock from the irresistible
+force of the outside pressure. What would have been
+the fate of our poor little frail ship had she been
+caught between these two stupendous works of
+nature?</p>
+
+<p>The ice had now assumed a totally different character
+from any that we had hitherto seen, being
+infinitely more massive and heavy. The thickness
+was estimated at from eighty to one hundred feet,
+whilst the hummocks formed along the shore and
+round the edges of the floes were fully twenty-five and
+thirty feet in height.</p>
+
+<p>These large hummocks received from us the name
+of &ldquo;floe-bergs,&rdquo; the term being intended to convey
+the idea of masses of ice more bulky than ordinary
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page115" id="page115"></a>115</span>
+hummocks, and formed in a different way. Some of
+these huge fragments that fringed the coast line were
+fully sixty feet in height, yet they were <i>aground</i> in
+some ten and twelve fathoms of water! This will
+give some idea of the massive nature of the ice with
+which we were contending. The region of icebergs, the
+creation of land glaciers, had been passed, and in
+their place were substituted these floe-bergs, the production
+of a floating glacier.</p>
+
+<p>To contend with this massive ice required the
+greatest care and judgment, for little respect is shown
+to the unfortunate vessel that is exposed to the fatal
+embrace of what has been aptly termed by our old
+Arctic navigators &ldquo;ye unmercifull yce.&rdquo; Before midnight
+the ship was secured to a large floe in Lincoln
+Bay, the pack having again closed in to the land,
+thereby obstructing our advance.</p>
+
+<p>The positions of the different bays and headlands
+on the western side of Robeson Channel we found
+strangely at variance with the positions assigned to
+them on the latest American chart; indeed, the
+shore, as delineated, was quite unrecognizable. The
+land on the opposite side of the channel seemed, on
+the contrary, to be very accurately laid down.</p>
+
+<p>With the exception of a little lemming (<i>Myodes
+torquatus</i>), captured by Captain Nares when he landed
+in the morning, a solitary dovekie (<i>Uria grylle</i>),
+fluttering about in the ice-encumbered waters, was
+the only living thing seen during the day. The first-named
+little animal was the first of its species caught
+alive, and excited considerable interest, every one
+being desirous of obtaining a peep at the diminutive
+little quadruped. One man, more fortunate than his
+messmates, was literally besieged, by those less lucky
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page116" id="page116"></a>116</span>
+than himself in seeing the animal, with numerous
+questions regarding its appearance. When asked its
+colour the man hesitated, finding it difficult to
+describe; but suddenly brightening up he said,
+&ldquo;Why, <i>lemon</i> colour, of course!&rdquo; an answer that
+appeared quite satisfactory, agreeing, as it did, so
+well with its name!</p>
+
+<p>These little mouse-like creatures are the smallest,
+yet the most numerous and common, of all quadrupeds
+in the Arctic regions. They are extremely
+pugnacious and fearless, and often attract attention,
+when they would otherwise be unobserved, by their
+shrill cries of rage at an approaching step. They
+hibernate in burrows under the snow, and live during
+the summer on the scant vegetation of these regions.
+When roasted and served up on toast, like sparrows,
+they were found to be excellent eating, although
+provokingly small.</p>
+
+<p>On the same hill where the capture of this little
+animal was effected, our naturalist picked up a
+marine shell (<i>Astarte borealis</i>), about a mile from the
+beach, and at least a hundred and fifty feet above the
+level of the sea. This shell was in excellent preservation,
+the epidermis still adhering, and in a perfect state.</p>
+
+<p>The apparent freshness of this specimen gave rise
+to many conjectures regarding the theory of the
+upheaval of the land, the evidence pointing conclusively
+to its being both recent and rapid. These
+regions offer a wide field for the geologist and student
+of natural history.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, August 30th.</i>&mdash;During the forenoon, there
+being no prospect of pushing forward, a large depôt
+of provisions, consisting of one thousand rations, was
+landed. This depôt was established for the use of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page117" id="page117"></a>117</span>
+travelling parties from the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; or from our
+own ship should it be determined to despatch any to
+the southward. It was not without some difficulty
+that the heavy casks were transported from the boats
+to a suitable position sufficiently removed from the
+encroachments of the pack. Their transit was only
+effected by a nautical process known as &ldquo;parbuckling,&rdquo;
+by which casks and barrels are either hauled
+up or lowered down steep inclines.</p>
+
+<p>On the brow of the hill immediately above the
+depôt a large cairn was erected, in which the usual
+records were deposited; the provisions themselves
+being so placed as to form a very conspicuous landmark
+to any ship passing to the northward, or to any
+sledge party travelling along the coast line. Whilst
+engaged in these operations, the pack was observed
+to slacken considerably, several leads of water opening
+to the northward, which we fondly hoped would afford
+us an easy passage towards the attainment of that
+object which was ever uppermost in our thoughts,
+and for which we were ready and willing to make any
+sacrifice&mdash;the object of exploring the unknown region,
+and of reaching a high northern latitude.</p>
+
+<p>Steam was accordingly quickly raised, and another
+attempt made to proceed; but alas! having incautiously
+been tempted by promising lanes of water
+to stray farther from the land than had hitherto been
+our custom, we were soon hopelessly beset by very
+heavy ice, of at least eighty or one hundred feet in
+thickness, and fully ten feet above the surface of the
+water. So high was it that our boats, suspended at
+the davits, were seriously endangered, and had in
+consequence to be &ldquo;turned in&rdquo; to avoid being
+crushed altogether. We were, fortunately, surrounded
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page118" id="page118"></a>118</span>
+by loose pieces of broken-off ice, which
+acting as cushions between the ship and the more
+massive floes, thereby saved the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; from an
+unpleasant nip. As there was no saying when we
+might be deprived of the friendly aid of these
+&ldquo;buffers,&rdquo; by any sudden movement of the pack,
+steam was kept ready in both boilers in order that we
+might take immediate advantage of any such motion
+for the purpose of extricating our vessel from her very
+unpleasant and perilous position.</p>
+
+<p>An anxious night was spent by all on board, and
+many ineffectual attempts were made to push our
+way through cracks in the pack that appeared to be
+inclined to open. Sleep was out of the question&mdash;indeed,
+was hardly thought of&mdash;every one being prepared,
+with his little bag of necessaries, to abandon
+the ship when such an order, which seemed inevitable,
+should be given.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day, by dint of much labour, a
+space was cleared round the stern of the vessel, which
+enabled us to ship our rudder, and, the ice having
+slackened a little, by constantly steaming ahead and
+astern we succeeded in clearing a larger space in
+which the ship could be worked, when, boldly attacking
+the pack, we forced our way through, and with
+relieved minds and thankful hearts extricated ourselves
+from our dangerous position, and once more
+secured the ship in Lincoln Bay. The time occupied
+in steaming through the pack, a distance of about
+a mile, was exactly five hours!</p>
+
+<p>The ice was observed to be still tightly packed
+against Cape Union, and consequently hindered us
+from pushing on.</p>
+
+<p>We had much reason to be grateful for our safe
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page119" id="page119"></a>119</span>
+deliverance from the pack, for, shortly after our
+extrication, a heavy gale sprang up from the S.W.,
+the effect of which on the ship, beset in such ponderous
+ice, must have been disastrous in the extreme,
+and would in all probability have been fatal. Ice
+navigators, however, are not, as a rule, prone to
+indulge in ideas as to &ldquo;what <i>might</i> have occurred had
+this or that happened:&rdquo; their thoughts and minds
+must be directed entirely to the present and the
+future, only too happy and thankful, as the days go
+by, to find they still have their own good vessel to
+sustain them, and carry them through another day.
+To our engines we owed a deep debt of gratitude, for
+without the powerful aid of steam we should have
+been unable, before the gale burst upon us, to have
+effected our deliverance.</p>
+
+<p>Towards midnight the gale freshened considerably,
+snow fell, and the weather altogether had a very ugly
+and threatening appearance. We, however, consoled
+ourselves with the hope that it would clear the ice
+out of the channel, and thus enable us to proceed.
+The noise of the pack grinding and squeezing as it
+was tossed about by a short turbulent sea was anything
+but pleasing to listen to, resembling in a
+measure the sound created by the dashing of the surf
+over a rock-bound coast. One can easily imagine
+the feelings of those old navigators, in their frail
+little barks, which gave rise to the expression that
+&ldquo;the irksome noyse of the yce bred strange conceits
+among us.&rdquo; Very &ldquo;irksome&rdquo; indeed was that noise
+to us, and many were the &ldquo;strange conceits&rdquo; that
+we indulged in as we listened to the soughing of the
+wind and the crashing of the ice!</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, September 1st</i>, must always be regarded,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page120" id="page120"></a>120</span>
+at least by all those connected with, or interested in,
+Arctic research, as a red-letter day in the annals of
+naval enterprise, and indeed in English history, for
+on this day a British man-of-war reached a higher
+northern latitude than had ever yet been reached
+by any ship, and we had the extreme gratification
+of hoisting the colours at noon to celebrate the
+event.</p>
+
+<p>Never was an ensign hoisted by such a number
+of eager and willing hands. All were desirous of
+participating in this act, and of sharing the honours
+of this important proceeding.</p>
+
+<p>Our success in thus attaining a high position was
+due entirely to the S.W. gale, which blew with such
+fury, that by nine o&rsquo;clock in the forenoon the pack
+was driven so far off the land that a narrow channel
+of water was left extending to the northward along
+the coast line. We were not long in availing ourselves
+of this grand opportunity. The ice anchors
+were quickly hauled on board, sail was made, and,
+with the steam ready in case it should be required,
+we were soon bowling along at the rate of ten knots
+an hour, &ldquo;and <i>northwards</i> aye we fled.&rdquo; So far had
+the pack been blown off the shore, that the channel
+of water was fully three miles in breadth.</p>
+
+<p>It would be impossible to describe the feelings of
+those on board the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; at this unexpected piece
+of good fortune; for the lateness of the season, combined
+with the unprecedented solidity of the ice, had
+in a measure damped our ardour and forced us to
+realize the apparent hopelessness of attaining, this
+year, a high northern latitude. Eagerly and anxiously
+were the different reports from the crow&rsquo;s-nest listened
+to, and still to the delight of all came down the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page121" id="page121"></a>121</span>
+cheery words, &ldquo;Water, plenty of water ahead, and no
+ice in sight.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Every one was joyous and elated as, at noon, they
+assembled round the ward-room table to inaugurate,
+in a glass of Madeira, generously supplied by our
+wine caterer, the auspicious event, and to wish success
+to their flag.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately snow was falling heavily, and the
+weather was so thick that little could be seen. We
+could just make out that the land along which we
+were steering, and which trended to the N.E., was
+composed of high cliffs with numerous ravines and
+valleys running down to the water&rsquo;s edge; but, to
+our disappointment, we failed to observe either
+harbour or bay, or any place that would afford a
+refuge or protection of any description for the ship.
+Arctic navigation, like everything else, has its dark
+as well as its bright side!</p>
+
+<p>After rounding Cape Union the coast trended away
+to the westward of north, and the wind, which had
+hitherto been blowing so fresh, suddenly subsided.
+So did our joyful anticipations, for one short hour
+after our ensign had fluttered out so gaily before the
+breeze, we were stopped by a barrier of ice of great
+thickness, through which there was no prospect of
+penetrating. The land also appeared to lose the bold
+rugged character that had been such a prominent
+feature between Lincoln Bay and Cape Union, and
+now assumed an undulating form as it trended away
+to the N.W., the coast being low and entirely covered
+with snow.</p>
+
+<p>Having set our minds at rest that a farther
+advance, for the present, was perfectly impracticable,
+we reluctantly retraced our steps to the southward
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page122" id="page122"></a>122</span>
+for about a mile, and secured the ship inside a fringe
+of grounded floe-bergs that lined the coast and which
+promised to afford us protection, in fact, the only
+protection, from the irresistible pressure of the pack.
+A depôt of provisions, consisting of two thousand
+rations, was immediately landed, in order to guard
+against all accidents that might happen to the ship,
+and also to be of use to our southern travelling
+parties, should we succeed in reaching a higher
+latitude in the ship. The weather still continued
+thick; but during a clear interval we succeeded in
+getting a good view to the northward from the summit
+of a hill about two hundred and fifty feet above the
+level of the sea. But it was a most cheerless scene
+that presented itself in that direction. Nothing but
+ice, tight and impassable, was to be seen&mdash;a solid
+impenetrable mass that no amount of imagination or
+theoretical belief could ever twist into an &ldquo;open Polar
+Sea&rdquo;!</p>
+
+<p>We were reluctantly compelled to come to the conclusion
+that we had in reality arrived on the shore
+of the Polar Ocean; a frozen sea, of such a character
+as utterly to preclude the possibility of its being
+navigated by a ship; a wide expanse of ice and snow,
+whose impenetrable fastnesses seemed to defy the puny
+efforts of mortal men to invade and expose their
+hitherto sealed and hidden mysteries. Still we did
+not give up all hope of reaching a higher northern
+position in the ship. We knew the wonderful effect
+that a gale of wind would produce on the pack,
+and we hoped when the weather cleared, we should
+still be able to see, and reach, land to the northward.</p>
+
+<p>For the present then we could only put our trust
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page123" id="page123"></a>123</span>
+in Providence, who had already guarded and favoured
+us almost beyond our most sanguine expectations,
+and pray that He might still continue to watch over
+and protect us, and grant us such a measure of success
+as would increase our knowledge of this world and
+thereby add to His glory.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page124" id="page124"></a>124</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XI.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">FLOE-BERG BEACH.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;The cold earth slept below,</p>
+<p class="i05">Above the cold sky shone,</p>
+<p class="i05">And all around</p>
+<p class="i05">With a chilling sound,</p>
+<p class="i05">From caves of ice and fields of snow</p>
+<p class="i05">The breath of night like death did flow</p>
+<p class="i05">Beneath the sinking moon.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">Shelley.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">In</span> order more effectually to ensure the safety of the
+ship, the men were at once employed in removing a
+large quantity of loose ice, directly inside the line
+of friendly floe-bergs, so as to allow the vessel to be
+hauled farther in and thus obtain more complete
+protection from the encroachments of the pack. This
+was no easy work, for the wind had again sprung up
+and blew with terrific violence, whilst the temperature
+had fallen as much as ten degrees below the freezing
+point.</p>
+
+<p>Before we had succeeded in completing our preparations
+a violent squall struck the ship, the lines
+by which she was temporarily held parted, and we
+were blown clean out from our harbour of refuge.
+Steam was instantly raised, and an anchor let go,
+which fortunately brought us up. During the succeeding
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page125" id="page125"></a>125</span>
+hours the gale blew with increased fury,
+but being an off-shore wind, we were in a measure
+protected, whilst it had the effect of driving the pack
+off, so as to raise our hopes at the prospect of again
+proceeding northward.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly, without any warning, the wind shifted,
+and drove the whole body of the pack towards the
+land. Our danger now was imminent. To be caught
+between the fast closing ice and the grounded floe-bergs
+would be certain destruction, to escape to the
+southward before the pack impinged on Cape Union
+was quite out of the question, and to steam into the
+pack would be madness. Our only hope of safety was
+to endeavour to haul the ship inside the grounded
+floe-bergs, and again avail ourselves of their friendly
+protection. No time was to be lost; it was a case
+of almost life and death to us. The men, always
+to be depended upon in a crisis like the present, responded
+to the call with alacrity, and by dint of hard
+work we succeeded in hauling the ship into a safe
+position. We were not a moment too soon: it was
+a race between the ice and the ship, in which the
+latter was, fortunately for us, the victor. Scarcely
+had we reached our place of refuge when the pack
+came into contact with the bergs, scrunching and
+squeezing in a most unpleasant manner as it swept
+by, and serving to illustrate, in a very practical way,
+the dreadful fate to which we should have been
+subjected had we not been fortunate enough to escape
+in time.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult to imagine a more desolate position
+to pass a winter than the one in which we were
+placed. Our ship was on an exposed and, apparently,
+unsafe coast, without even the protection of a bay,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page126" id="page126"></a>126</span>
+within one hundred yards of a low undulating beach,
+on which, should any extraordinary pressure of the
+pack destroy our protecting bergs, we must inevitably
+be forced and wrecked, exposed to all the rigours of
+an Arctic winter; and yet, notwithstanding these
+unenviable drawbacks, the official announcement
+that this place had been decided upon as our winter
+quarters was received with a deep feeling of relief
+and thankfulness. This determination was not, however,
+arrived at for some days, when, from careful
+watching of the pack, it was decided that a farther
+advance was absolutely impossible.</p>
+
+<p>Winter was advancing upon us with rapid strides,
+eager to seize us in its icy grasp; so quickly, indeed,
+that in two days we were able to <i>walk on shore</i> on
+the new and rapidly forming ice. The now steadily
+falling temperature was another and a sure indication
+that the navigable season was at an end.</p>
+
+<p>Without a harbour or projecting headland of any
+description to protect our good ship from the furious
+gusts that we must naturally expect, the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;
+lay, apparently, in a vast frozen ocean, having land
+on one side, but bounded on the other by the chaotic
+and illimitable polar pack.</p>
+
+<p>The land had already assumed a wintry aspect, and
+the ship, to be in unison with her surroundings, had
+also put on a garb of snow and ice, each spar and
+each rope being double its ordinary thickness from
+the accumulation of frost rime. Everything was
+white, solemn, and motionless around us; no voice
+of bird or beast was heard to disturb the silence. All
+was as still and silent as the tomb&mdash;a silence that
+until then had never been broken by the presence of
+man.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page127" id="page127"></a>127</span></p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;No other noyse, nor people&rsquo;s troublous cries,</p>
+<p class="i05">As still are wont to annoy the walled towne,</p>
+<p class="i05">Might there be heard, but carelesse quiet lyes,</p>
+<p class="i05">Wrapt in eternal silence far from enemyes.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind">Night, to which we had long been strangers, gradually
+came upon us, the darkness increasing perceptibly as
+each day passed away. From the 3rd of September,
+on which day the sun set at midnight, the days decreased
+in length, and the stars were again seen to
+twinkle in the heavens.</p>
+
+<p>From a neighbouring hill we obtained a clear and
+unobstructed view of our surroundings. The coast
+continued to the N.W. in a succession of large bays,
+terminating in an abrupt cape some forty miles
+distant. In order to assimilate the names of the
+various bays and headlands with those of the American
+chart, this extreme point was called Cape Joseph
+Henry. Beyond Cape Joseph Henry all was conjecture.
+It might be the southern extreme of a large
+bay or inlet, or it might be the northern termination
+of land. No land of any description could be seen
+to the northward&mdash;nothing but the rugged pack. So
+formidable and compact appeared this icy barrier
+that it seemed to stand out bold and resolute in its
+strength, effectually setting at defiance the puny
+efforts of man to penetrate its solidity, saying, as it
+were, &ldquo;Thus far shalt thou go, and no farther.&rdquo;
+And, indeed, we had much cause to be thankful to
+Him who had hitherto watched over and protected
+us in many dangers, and who had allowed us to
+penetrate thus far into this remote and unknown
+portion of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>A long range of high hills could be seen to the
+westward, whilst on the opposite side of the channel
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page128" id="page128"></a>128</span>
+the distant land of Greenland was indistinctly observed,
+its most northern point bearing about N.E.
+(<i>true</i>).<a name="fa1i" id="fa1i" href="#ft1i"><span class="sp">1</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The positions of the northern extremes of land, on
+either side of the channel, were, for a time, a matter
+of some uncertainty, and it was really doubtful which
+was situated in the highest latitude. It was not until
+after the return of the autumn sledging parties that
+this important question was definitely decided, the
+land on the western side proving to be nearest the
+Pole.</p>
+
+<p>It must not be imagined, because farther progress
+in the ship had ceased, that our labours had in any
+way diminished; on the contrary, we felt that our
+real work was about to commence: a work in which
+we should all share in a greater or less degree, and a
+work the achievement of which had been our sole
+engrossing thought since leaving England.</p>
+
+<p>Before finally deciding upon the position of our
+winter quarters, Captain Nares was desirous of ascertaining
+whether a more protected spot could be found
+for the ship in the numerous bays to the N.W. than
+the exposed position she then occupied.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, early on the 5th of September, Aldrich
+and myself started away with a couple of sledges, each
+drawn by a team of eight dogs, under the guidance of
+Frederic the Eskimo, and Petersen, the Danish dog-driver.
+Our route lay along the edge of the coast,
+where, at times, we were able to take advantage of
+the ice-foot on which to travel; but as a rule there
+was no continuity of this land-ice, and we were compelled
+to strike across an undulating country, deeply
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page129" id="page129"></a>129</span>
+covered with snow, ascending hills frequently as high
+as two and three hundred feet above the level of the
+sea, whence we obtained good views of the surrounding
+country. The general direction in which we
+travelled was N.W., the coast line being a series of
+indentations in the land, some of such a size as to
+form fine harbours and bays; but, alas! they could
+not be utilized for our ship, for they were rendered
+unapproachable by a chain of high hummocks extending
+in every case across the entrances, whilst the
+water in the harbours appeared to be permanently
+frozen, and therefore inaccessible for a vessel.</p>
+
+<p>It was a novel sensation to us to be thus dashing
+along on our light sledges, exploring a perfectly unknown
+country: a wild and barren tract of land, a
+snow-covered expanse, receding from our view in long
+undulations into the interior, until lost amongst the
+high conical-shaped hills of from one to two thousand
+feet in height, that invariably form the chief feature
+of Arctic scenery in these high latitudes. At noon we
+made a brief halt for luncheon, our appetites having
+been rendered doubly keen by the sharp cold air of
+a temperature some twenty degrees below freezing
+point; but which had, until the halt was called, been
+unheeded, the constant jumping on and off the sledge
+and assisting the dogs over difficulties having kept
+us in a perfect glow. Innocently pulling off our
+mitts, we commenced a vigorous onslaught upon the
+Australian beef with which we had supplied ourselves;
+but the first contact of our fingers with the handles of
+the knives proved the folly of such a proceeding, and
+compelled us again to resume our mitts. These, however,
+were now frozen so hard that they were with
+difficulty put on! Petersen using a tin cup to drink
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page130" id="page130"></a>130</span>
+a little rum mixed with snow, and disregarding his
+mitts, burnt his hand rather severely, whilst we were
+all obliged to rub the edge of the cup well with our
+hands before putting it to our lips!</p>
+
+<p>These little inconveniences were to us a source of
+great merriment; in fact, they must really be experienced
+before they can be properly and thoroughly
+appreciated!</p>
+
+<p>The Eskimo dogs appear to me to be very differently
+constituted to their more civilized brethren. In England
+a halt for lunch whilst shooting is a signal for all
+the dogs to assemble and importune for fragments of
+the feast, which they greedily devour. My own dog
+&ldquo;Nellie&rdquo; would never be satisfied without obtaining a
+very large share of any impromptu meal. With the
+Eskimo dogs it is quite different. As soon as the
+sledges are halted they lie down and sleep, and rarely
+attempt to move until they are required to do so.
+Should a piece of meat be thrown to them they may
+condescend to swallow it; but they turn up their noses
+at a piece of biscuit, utterly despising it as an article
+of food. Yet these dogs are excessively voracious, and
+always hungry! Nothing in the shape of fresh meat,
+or even skin, is safe from their insatiable voracity;
+even the thongs that are used for lashing the different
+parts of a sledge together, unless they have been well
+rubbed over with tar, are unsafe, and will most
+assuredly be gnawed off. Notwithstanding this, they
+have little liking for cooked meat, positively refuse
+biscuit, and are not troublesome when they observe
+you eating.</p>
+
+<p>We were <i>en route</i> again directly our luncheon was
+consumed, the dogs starting off with renewed vigour
+and speed after their short rest, when we came
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page131" id="page131"></a>131</span>
+suddenly upon a precipitous ravine, almost too late to
+stop our team in their headlong career. By springing
+out of the sledge and holding on with might and
+main, we just succeeded in stopping them in time,
+pulling up almost on the very brink of the precipice.
+Retracing our steps for a short distance, we left the
+hills, and continued our course along the coast line,
+until our farther progress was checked by water, a
+channel connecting two large bays, which from their
+shape afterwards went by the name of Dumb-bell
+Bay.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:798px; height:596px" src="images/img155.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Swimming about in this little sheet of water was a
+small flock of eider-ducks, eleven in number, that
+appeared to be as much surprised at beholding us as
+we were at seeing them. They did not, however,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page132" id="page132"></a>132</span>
+seem disposed to fly away. The only weapon we had
+was a rifle with twelve rounds of ammunition. With
+this we commenced hostilities, rejoicing in the anticipation
+of a fresh-meat meal when we returned to the
+ship. So utterly unconcerned did they appear that
+we actually succeeded in shooting five before the
+remainder took flight; but to our great chagrin we
+were unable to possess ourselves of any of our victims,
+as they had unfortunately all fallen into the water <i>just</i>
+out of our reach. This was very tantalizing, as
+neither of us felt inclined to risk being frozen for the
+sake even of roast duck by plunging in after them.
+We were reluctantly compelled to leave them.
+During the following week, however, they were recovered,
+having all been frozen together in the water.
+With the exception of these birds, no animal life was
+seen, although we observed numerous traces of
+ptarmigan and lemmings. Tufts of saxifrage and
+some grasses were seen, but so thickly was the land
+covered with snow that it was impossible to arrive
+at any conclusion regarding the vegetation of the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of the report that we brought back,
+Floe-berg Beach was decided upon as the position of
+the &ldquo;Alert&rsquo;s&rdquo; winter quarters, and preparations were
+immediately made for securing the ship, and for
+making as extensive an exploration of the land to the
+northward as the duration of light would admit.</p>
+
+<p>The land in our immediate vicinity was also very
+naturally an object of special interest to us. Speculations
+were rife regarding its extent and formation.
+The possibility of obtaining game of any description
+was a matter of much importance to us who were
+doomed to pass so many months in these icy solitudes.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page133" id="page133"></a>133</span>
+Alas! any hopes that we had cherished in this
+respect were soon found to be fallacious. The land,
+for the succeeding eight months, proved to be as
+devoid of life as its appearance was sterile and
+desolate.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th of September Aldrich went away with
+the dog-sledges, accompanied by two or three of his
+messmates, for three days, for the purpose of more
+thoroughly exploring the country in the hopes of
+obtaining game.</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th I left the ship with Parr and Egerton
+and eighteen men, with the object of advancing a
+couple of boats to the northward along the proposed
+route of exploration. It was thought that they might
+prove useful during the future sledging operations of
+the expedition. We came back in four days, having
+successfully accomplished our mission.</p>
+
+<p>On our return journey we encountered a furious
+gale of wind, which broke up the ice along the coast
+line, and forced us to drag our sledges over the hills,
+the summits of which were almost bare, the force of
+the gale having blown the snow completely off. Any
+one who has ever attempted to drag a sledge over
+a rough stony road will know the severe toil and
+labour that is required to be exerted in order to make
+any progress. Crossing a bay we made a short halt
+for luncheon on the ice, under the lee of a high
+hummock, and narrowly escaped destruction from
+having selected such a spot for a halt. Without our
+observing it, the ice began breaking up, and it was
+only by strenuous exertions that we succeeded in
+reaching the shore in safety, whence we observed the
+ice on which we had recently been encamped drifting
+in small fragments to seaward. If this disruption
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page134" id="page134"></a>134</span>
+had not been observed in time, nothing short of a
+miracle could have saved us.</p>
+
+<p>The violence of the gale was so terrific that pebbles
+and shingle were blown along by its force, mercilessly
+striking our faces and causing acute pain. Still we
+had to struggle onwards, for there was no possible lee
+under which we could pitch our tents and obtain shelter.
+An attempt to do so was unsuccessful, and had to be
+abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>One of the men, failing from sheer exhaustion, had
+to be carried on the sledge. This seriously added to
+our difficulties, for it increased the load which the
+wearied sledgers had to drag, whilst it diminished the
+power of the draggers. But the indomitable spirit
+and pluck of the British sailor overcame all obstacles,
+and after an arduous march of eighteen hours in the
+face of a furious hurricane, we arrived, to our no
+small relief, alongside the &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo; Never was a
+goal attained with more pleasure and satisfaction than
+was our Arctic home reached that night by the fatigued
+and half-blinded sledge travellers. Untrained as they
+were, this forced march had seriously overtaxed their
+strength and entailed much suffering. Some few
+were, on their return, placed under the doctor&rsquo;s
+hands.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile those remaining on board the ship, but
+few in number, spent an anxious and trying time.</p>
+
+<p>The young ice, by which the ship was surrounded,
+had been completely broken up by the fury of the
+gale, and had disappeared; and had it not been for
+the protecting grounded floe-bergs, small mercy would
+have been shown to the good ship &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; by &ldquo;ye
+thick-ribbed ice.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Small fragments of the pack, large enough, however,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page135" id="page135"></a>135</span>
+to be unpleasant and disagreeable neighbours,
+would occasionally find their way between the floe-bergs,
+and drift about in our immediate vicinity.
+These it was our object to secure as speedily as
+possible, otherwise their incessant movement backwards
+and forwards with the tide would break up the
+young ice, or even prevent it from forming. The
+ominous grinding noise of the pack, as it swayed to
+and fro in the channel, and the terrible war that
+appeared to be raging between the floes as they came
+into furious contact with each other, pulverizing their
+sides or rending huge fragments from their edges,
+was a sound and sight that struck us with wonder
+and awe.</p>
+
+<p>The grandeur and solemnity of the scene gave rise
+to thoughts of our own weakness and insignificance
+amidst these wonders of the far north.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning after our return on board, the
+wind having subsided considerably, and a large
+channel of water existing between the land and the
+pack, Captain Nares determined upon seeking more
+secure and sheltered winter quarters in one of the
+numerous bays immediately to the northward of our
+present position, in the hope that the gale would have
+broken up the ice and so afforded us an entrance.</p>
+
+<p>Steam was quickly raised and the rudder shipped;
+but from some, at that time, unknown cause we were
+unable to lower the screw into its place, or rather to
+enter the shaft. Our chance therefore of getting
+away was lost, as before midnight the gale was
+blowing as furiously as ever. The following day,
+however, the weather again cleared up, and renewed
+attempts were made to ship the screw, but always
+without success. Whilst so engaged a shift of wind
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page136" id="page136"></a>136</span>
+occurred, and we had the mortification of seeing the
+whole body of the pack close the channel of water
+and resume its place along the coast, where it remained
+during the entire winter, effectually sealing us
+up. We had good reason to be thankful to our screw
+for causing our detention, for a subsequent examination
+of the coast proved only too plainly that the
+ice had not been broken up and blown out of any of
+the harbours that we should have sought, and that
+we should not have found any better sheltered
+position than the one we then occupied. In all
+probability we should have been caught by the fast
+closing ice&mdash;an occurrence rather unpleasant even to
+speculate upon. We afterwards discovered the reason
+for the failure of our attempts to ship the screw. On
+lowering it into the water, the ice formed so quickly
+in the &ldquo;boss&rdquo; that it effectually prevented the shaft
+from entering!</p>
+
+<p>The ship was now secured by lines to the floe-bergs,
+and by anchors and cables to the shore, until
+she should be permanently frozen in.</p>
+
+<p>We also busily engaged ourselves in making the
+necessary preparations for the autumn sledging operations.
+Travelling garments were issued, tents
+thoroughly overhauled, and sledges prepared.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22nd of September Aldrich was despatched
+with three men and two dog-sledges, provisioned for
+fourteen days, as a sort of pioneering expedition; his
+orders being to proceed, if possible, as far as Cape
+Joseph Henry, there to erect a cairn and deposit a
+record with full information regarding the practicability
+of travelling, that would be of use to the main
+party which would follow him in a few days.</p>
+
+<p>By the 25th the ice had again formed around the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page137" id="page137"></a>137</span>
+ship, and was of sufficient thickness to bear heavy
+weights. This was the day selected for the departure
+of the sledging parties. The force consisted of three
+eight-men sledges, officered by Parr and May, the
+whole under my command. My sledge was named
+the &ldquo;Marco Polo;&rdquo; Parr&rsquo;s, the &ldquo;Victoria;&rdquo; and
+May&rsquo;s, the &ldquo;Hercules.&rdquo; My orders were to advance
+as far to the northward, along the land, as possible,
+and at our extreme position to establish a large depôt
+of provisions in readiness for the use of the main
+exploring parties that would be despatched in that
+direction during the ensuing spring. Our provisions
+were all carefully weighed and packed; the maximum
+weight dragged by each man on leaving the ship was
+201 lbs., decreasing at the rate of 3 lbs. per diem due
+to the consumption of provisions. The slight experience
+that we obtained during the previous few
+days&rsquo; sledging stood us now in good stead; the men
+who had recently been so employed being regarded as
+veterans in sledge work by those who were for the
+first time being initiated into its mysteries. All
+started in the very best spirits, animated by the same
+desire to do their utmost, and to achieve, so far as in
+them lay, success and honour for the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The details connected with the sledging operations
+must have a chapter to themselves. I make no
+apology for not entering more fully into the journeys
+performed by Aldrich and others, as the description of
+one sledging expedition suffices for all, and I am,
+of course, best able to describe those in which I was
+myself personally engaged.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1i" id="ft1i" href="#fa1i"><span class="fn">1</span></a> All compass bearings referred to are <i>true</i>, unless stated to be
+<i>magnetic</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page138" id="page138"></a>138</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">AUTUMN TRAVELLING.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;When suddenly a grosse fog over spred,</p>
+  <p class="i2">With his dull vapour all that desert has,</p>
+<p class="i05">And heaven&rsquo;s cheerfull face enveloped;</p>
+  <p class="i2">That all things one, and one as nothing was,</p>
+  <p class="i2">And this great universe seemed one confused mass.</p>
+
+<p class="s">&ldquo;Thereat they greatly were dismay&rsquo;d, ne wist</p>
+  <p class="i2">How to direct theyr way in darknes wide;</p>
+<p class="i05">But feared to wander in that wastefull miste,</p>
+  <p class="i2">For tombling into mischiefe unespyde:</p>
+  <p class="i2">Worse is the danger hidden than descride.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Spenser.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">There</span> are, I am sure, many among those &ldquo;who stay
+at home at ease&rdquo; who have little or no idea of what
+sledge travelling in the Arctic Regions is like, and
+who even fail to realize that it entails hard work of
+any description.</p>
+
+<p>Their imaginations picture the travellers seated on
+sledges, comfortably wrapped up in shawls and furs,
+and drawn by a team of dogs or reindeer gaily
+caparisoned, with their bells jingling as they dash
+along at a rapid pace over a smooth plain of snow
+and ice. They imagine that after the toil of the day
+is over a large fire is built up, and, having obtained
+some salmon, venison, or other product of the chase,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page139" id="page139"></a>139</span>
+a sumptuous meal is cooked and discussed, after
+which the sledge travellers compose themselves to
+sleep in a nice warm snow-house or wooden hut
+constructed by their attendants. All this sounds
+very delightful, and is, to my personal knowledge,
+believed to be a fairly true picture of Arctic life by
+a large majority of people. Unfortunately it is the
+very reverse of sledge life on the shores of the Polar
+Ocean. Let us see what it is like in reality. There,
+great climatic hardships have to be endured, combined
+with physical labour of no ordinary description.
+No change or variety of any sort can be made in the
+fare, nor can more than a certain allowance be
+allotted to each individual. When that is consumed,
+hunger must be borne with patience until the time
+has arrived for the next meal, for until that is due
+nothing is obtainable.</p>
+
+<p>For shelter at night time, a tent made of the very
+lightest material (for economy of weight is the most
+important point to be considered in sledge travelling)
+is all the covering to protect the travellers from the
+furious onslaughts of a biting wind, always accompanied
+by a blinding snow-drift. So searching is the
+latter that in spite of all efforts it will penetrate
+through every little orifice into the tent, covering
+everything inside with a layer of minute snow crystals,
+and rendering an uncomfortable night still more comfortless
+and disagreeable. Rolled up in their bags,
+with the hard frozen sea as their couch, affording
+little rest to their aching and frost-bitten limbs, the
+wearied sledgers vainly attempt in sleep to become
+oblivious to the present. As for a fire by which
+circulation might be restored in their numbed extremities,
+that is quite out of the question. A limited
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page140" id="page140"></a>140</span>
+amount of spirits of wine, barely sufficient to cook
+the allowance of provisions, is all the fuel with which
+they are supplied. Even if the material for making
+a fire, such as driftwood, was available, it would be
+impossible to benefit by it, for it could not be lighted
+in the tent, whilst outside, under such circumstances
+as I have related, it would be impracticable.</p>
+
+<p>This is a slight sketch of what has to be endured
+by the Polar sledge traveller; but a cheerful spirit,
+a contented mind, and an ardent desire to achieve
+success are quite sufficient to enable him to withstand
+the attendant hardships, and even to laugh at and
+treat them with contempt.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot do better than quote the words of Sir
+George Nares, who, addressing our men before leaving
+England, whilst explaining to them the nature
+of the work that they were about to engage in, and
+speaking from his own personal previous experience
+of sledge life, said, &ldquo;That if they could imagine the
+hardest work they had ever been called upon to
+perform in their lives intensified to the utmost degree,
+it would only be as child&rsquo;s play in comparison with
+the work they would have to perform whilst sledging!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>These prophetic words were fully realized, and were
+often recalled and commented on by the men during
+their initiation into the work of sledging.</p>
+
+<p>The autumn sledge travelling has been alluded to
+by a very distinguished and successful explorer in the
+Arctic Regions, as &ldquo;the very acme of discomfort.&rdquo;
+In the accuracy of this statement we, one and all,
+fully concurred.</p>
+
+<p>The principal reasons that sledging at this period
+of the year is more disagreeable than in the spring
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page141" id="page141"></a>141</span>
+are, first, because the rapidly decreasing light caused
+by the sun&rsquo;s altitude lessening day by day is decidedly
+opposed to either work or comfort. Before our return
+from sledging, the sun had illumined for the last
+time, until its reappearance the following year, the
+summits of the snow-covered hills in the vicinity of
+the &ldquo;Alert&rsquo;s&rdquo; winter quarters, and had sunk, slowly
+and majestically, beneath the southern horizon, bequeathing
+to us only for a short time a few bright
+rays until the long polar night wrapped us in its
+sombre mantle, and enveloped us in gloom and
+obscurity for many months.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;&rsquo;Tis gone, that bright and orbèd blaze,</p>
+<p class="i05">Fast fading from our wistful gaze;</p>
+<p class="i05">Yon mantling cloud has hid from sight</p>
+<p class="i05">The last faint pulse of quivering light.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>A few hours of twilight, therefore, were all we had
+in which to work. Candles we had none. Our
+breakfast before we started in the morning and our
+supper after we halted in the evening had to be
+discussed in gloomy darkness. Our notes had to be
+written in our journals before entering the tent, even
+at the risk of frost-bitten fingers.</p>
+
+<p>In the second place, at this time of the year the
+ice, over which the sledges have to be dragged, is of
+very recent formation, and is consequently weak and
+dangerous. The travellers are therefore more liable
+to immersion by breaking through the thin ice at this
+period of the season than they are during the
+spring, or indeed at any other time. Young, and
+therefore smooth and level ice, covered with a
+treacherous layer of snow, often entices the unwary to
+turn from the rougher but stronger floes to travel on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page142" id="page142"></a>142</span>
+its flat plain surface. An immersion is invariably
+the result. Sometimes the leading men on the drag-ropes
+break through this weak ice first, and, by so
+doing, time is given to stop and save the sledge; but
+very often the ice directly under the sledge gives way
+without previous warning, when every effort must be
+at once directed to save the sledge. Although this is
+always successful it is generally at the expense of the
+greater part of the biscuit, which is so saturated with
+salt water as to be uneatable, and the wetting, and
+the consequent freezing, of the tent with all its appurtenances.
+Nothing more wretched and miserable can
+be conceived than having to pass the night in a stiffly
+frozen sleeping bag, inside a tent, which at the best
+of times is barely large enough to accommodate the
+party of men for whom it is allotted, but which has
+been considerably shrunk by being frozen. Not the
+least unpleasant part is the process of pitching it,
+for having become as hard as a piece of board, it is
+with great difficulty unfolded; more especially as this
+operation has to be performed after the fatigues of a
+hard day&rsquo;s sledging, by wearied men, in such a temperature
+that it is impossible to expose the hands bare
+to the cold, and it must therefore be carried out with
+mittens on.</p>
+
+<p>The constant wetting of the feet also renders the
+men more liable to frost-bites; whilst the heavy
+fall of snow, usually experienced in these regions
+during the autumn, renders the work ten times more
+arduous. For the air thus becomes so thick that it
+is impossible to see many yards ahead, and we
+have to trust solely to a compass as a guide. We
+might, in truth, fairly quote the lines from Spenser&rsquo;s
+&ldquo;Faërie Queene,&rdquo; at the heading of the present
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page143" id="page143"></a>143</span>
+chapter, as illustrating our difficulties in this respect&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;That all things one, and one as nothing was,</p>
+<p class="i05">And this great universe seemed one confused mass.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>And lastly this continual breaking through the ice
+of both men and sledge, combined with the heavy
+and incessant fall of snow, renders the task of walking
+and dragging a sledge one of extreme labour and
+anxiety. These were the little difficulties we had to
+experience during our novitiate in this autumn sledge
+travelling, and they must be generally expected by
+explorers who go away so late in the year.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:796px; height:495px" src="images/img167.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>In a future chapter I propose to give a full account
+of the routine of sledge life, of the equipment and
+scale of provisions, and of all other details connected
+with sledging operations in the Arctic Regions. I
+will now, therefore, proceed at once to give a brief
+account of our journey, for the purpose of laying out
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page144" id="page144"></a>144</span>
+a depôt in the autumn, which occupied three weeks of
+very severe and harassing work.</p>
+
+<p>At eight o&rsquo;clock, on the 25th of September, the three
+officers commanding sledges, myself and Lieutenants
+Parr and May, assembled at breakfast in sledging
+costume, and a rattling good breakfast our caterer
+gave us. At 8.15 our standards were displayed on
+the sledges, the ship hoisting the ensign. At 8.30
+the crews took up their stations alongside their respective
+sledges, and the order was given to march.
+Our men stepped out bravely, and as they did so
+three hearty cheers resounded from the ship. I
+called a halt and returned the salute with as much
+emphasis as twenty-four powerful pairs of lungs could
+give, and then continued the march. The young ice
+seemed strong enough to bear, so leaving the ice foot,
+on which the travelling was heavy, we ventured on
+the new ice. But we had not gone more than a mile
+when, to my horror, Parr&rsquo;s sledge, the &ldquo;Victoria,&rdquo;
+went through! It was a case of all hands to the
+rescue, and after fifteen minutes of hard tugging and
+hauling we succeeded in dragging it upon a firm piece
+of ice. But everything was thoroughly saturated.
+There was nothing for it but to send back at once for
+another sledge and dry things. This being done, we
+again proceeded for about three miles, when suddenly
+I heard a crack, and looking round, there was my
+sledge through! We dragged it on shore, and unpacking
+at once, I was glad to find that we had
+suffered less than the &ldquo;Victoria;&rdquo; but it was bad
+enough. Our tent and gear at the top were of course
+saturated, and nearly all our biscuit spoilt. However,
+I did not think it advisable to return, so re-packing
+we made another start, and shortly afterwards
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page145" id="page145"></a>145</span>
+were rejoined by Parr. After marching for twelve
+miles I halted for the night with the temperature 3°
+below zero, the tent frozen hard and shrunk considerably.
+Next day we marched thirteen miles over ice
+whose blue uneven surface was as smooth as glass,
+making it very hard work for the men, who were
+sorely put to it to maintain their footing. They
+worked splendidly, trudging merrily along, making
+light of the heavy loads and the treacherous ice,
+thinking only of performing a good day&rsquo;s work, and of
+advancing the depôt as far north as possible.</p>
+
+<p>On the third day, being unable to round a point of
+land owing to several lanes of water, we were obliged
+to unload the sledges and carry the things piecemeal
+across a neck of land about two miles in width and a
+hundred feet above the level of the sea. On the same
+evening snow began to fall, and from that time it
+fell incessantly until our return to the ship, increasing
+in depth day by day. This, combined with the softness
+of the snow as it fell, seriously impeded our
+advance, and we were frequently obliged to halt our
+sledges whilst the men were employed clearing a road
+with the shovels. So impervious was the air, owing
+to the heavy fall of snow, that it was only occasionally
+that we were able to obtain glimpses of the land as
+we journeyed onwards, rendering it most difficult to
+make out its conformation, or even the direction in
+which the coast line trended.</p>
+
+<p>From the unaccustomed work of dragging, the
+shoulders of the men began to evince symptoms of
+rawness, although they constantly shifted their drag
+belts from one shoulder to the other. In spite of
+these little drawbacks, and the dull overcast weather
+that generally prevailed, the spirits of the men never
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page146" id="page146"></a>146</span>
+flagged, and every night the labour of the day would
+be forgotten, and singing and laughter would be the
+only sounds heard issuing from our little camp, long
+after we had comfortably settled ourselves in our
+sleeping bags.</p>
+
+<p>It was amusing to listen to the quaint remarks and
+witty conversation of the men, as, reclining in their
+bags and smoking their pipes, they would, regardless
+of the generally dreaded presence of the commander,
+broach lower deck topics, and freely discuss and
+criticize them. I was much surprised at the extensive
+Arctic knowledge which they possessed, showing
+that they had read largely on this subject, and were
+anxious to learn yet more.</p>
+
+<p>I must own that the subject of eating and drinking
+monopolized a very large share of the conversation;
+nor did they only occupy our minds whilst awake, for
+they frequently formed the subject of our dreams.
+On one occasion when I aroused the men in the
+morning one of them said, &ldquo;Oh! I am sorry you
+called me so soon, sir, for I was dreaming that I was
+eating plum pudding, and if you had let me finish
+it would have been as good as a breakfast to me!&rdquo;
+Gales of wind were, of course, serious impediments
+to our advance, and were of not unfrequent occurrence.
+They invariably necessitated a halt, as, irrespective
+of the cold wind being productive of frost-bites,
+it was almost impossible to make way through the
+blinding snow-drift, which did not admit of anything
+being seen even at the distance of a yard or two!</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th of October, half our provisions being
+consumed, and there being the prospect of very heavy
+travelling before us on our homeward journey, it was
+decided to return. The depôt was therefore established,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page147" id="page147"></a>147</span>
+on the brow of a ridge just above our encampment.
+It consisted of 870 lbs. of pemmican and
+240 lbs. of bacon. May and myself pushed on, with
+the object of reaching Cape Joseph Henry; but the
+weather was too thick to obtain any view, and, for the
+same reason, it was impossible to ascertain the trend
+of the coast or the nature of the travelling to the
+northward. The floes seemed to be composed of very
+heavy ice, and the hummocks were piled up to a great
+height along the coast, especially off any projecting
+points of land. Lieutenant Aldrich had, however,
+ascended a hill some two thousand feet in height, and
+was fortunate in having a fine clear day. From Cape
+Joseph Henry the land, he saw, trended away to the
+westward, but there was no indication of anything
+but the impenetrable polar pack to the north. We
+reached a latitude of about 82° 50&prime; N. before turning
+our steps homewards.</p>
+
+<p>On the return journey the dragging became infinitely
+more irksome and laborious. The snow had
+accumulated to such a depth as to render some of the
+ravines and promontories almost impassable, being
+above the men&rsquo;s knees nearly all the time. On one
+occasion we were compelled to take our sledges up a
+range of hills two hundred and fifty feet above the
+level of the sea, in order to pass a precipitous cliff, off
+which was a stream of water, and then to lower them
+down a steep incline on the opposite side. To add to
+our difficulties, a sudden fall of temperature produced
+many severe frost-bites, principally on the feet and
+toes. Circulation was always restored as speedily as
+possible by the application of the warm hand, and
+the injured part was then dressed with glycerine
+ointment and lint.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page148" id="page148"></a>148</span></p>
+
+<p>The hills, over which we were obliged to take our
+sledges, subsequently went by the name of the &ldquo;Frost-bite
+Range,&rdquo; in consequence of the many casualties
+sustained during the time we were on them.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th the temperature was 15° below zero,
+and the boots, stockings, and foot wrappers were
+frozen to the men&rsquo;s feet. On coming down the hills
+the sledges had literally to be lowered to the ice-foot
+from a height of two hundred and fifty feet, at a very
+steep angle. Thence it was necessary to follow the
+shore, where enormous hummocks of ice were piled
+up, having huge cracks and fissures, into which we
+sunk to our necks in snow. In crossing some sludgy
+ice between the hummocks, on the 11th, Lieutenant
+May unfortunately went through, and was so severely
+frost-bitten that he eventually had to suffer amputation
+of one of his great toes.</p>
+
+<p>The sun set at about one in the afternoon. A
+glorious sight: the colours of the sunrise and sunset
+seeming to be blended together. This was on Tuesday,
+and at breakfast on the following Friday all the
+provisions would be expended. The 13th was the last
+day of the sun&rsquo;s appearance.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th the temperature was down to 25°
+below zero, and the travelling very heavy; but our
+sufferings were nearly over. At seven we sighted the
+ship, and hoisted our sledge standards. All the
+officers and ship&rsquo;s company came out to meet and
+help us, and by 8.50 <span class="scs">P.M.</span> we were on board.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the frost-bites were so severe as to render
+amputation necessary. This arose from the difficulty
+of finding out the injury in time. A frost-bite steals
+upon one like a thief in the night, and before the
+victim is aware it often happens that mortification
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page149" id="page149"></a>149</span>
+has set in. No less than half the party were placed
+on the sick list from being more or less severely frost-bitten.</p>
+
+<p>It was a very great relief and comfort to us to be
+again on board, and extremely gratifying to receive
+such a welcome as that extended to us by our messmates.
+They were already feeling a little anxious
+at our prolonged absence, knowing that we were only
+provisioned for twenty days, and fearing that our
+return journey would be greatly delayed by the late
+excessive fall of snow.</p>
+
+<p>How comfortable the ward-room looked, with the
+lamps burning brightly, a cheerful fire blazing in the
+stove, and, what delighted us almost still more, a
+clean white cloth spread upon the table, and on it
+a sumptuous repast, made doubly inviting by a couple
+of decanters of madeira and port! These little comforts
+and luxuries, though they may appear to casual
+readers unimportant and insignificant, are thoroughly
+enjoyed and appreciated by wearied and foot-sore
+travellers who have been strangers to light, comfort,
+and a good meal, though only for three short weeks.
+The pleasure of a warm bath and the enjoyment of
+brushing one&rsquo;s hair are beyond all description! We
+were all a little thinner when we returned; but, with
+the exception of the frost-bites, none the worse for our
+expedition.</p>
+
+<p>So far as the results were concerned we were quite
+satisfied, considering them perfectly successful.</p>
+
+<p>We had established a depôt of provisions some forty
+miles to the northward of the ship, which would very
+materially assist the sledging campaign of the ensuing
+spring. A large amount of thorough practical
+experience had been gained, which we hoped would
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page150" id="page150"></a>150</span>
+bear good fruit in the coming year. And we had
+succeeded in reaching and passing the highest latitude
+attained, to the northward of Spitzbergen, by
+that distinguished Arctic navigator, Sir Edward Parry,
+forty-eight years before, during his memorable journey
+over the frozen sea towards the North Pole.</p>
+
+<p>These were the most important results gained by
+the autumn sledging.</p>
+
+<p>The disappearance of the sun before our return
+necessarily prevented a more protracted exploration
+being made. As it was we only had sufficient light
+during midday for a very few hours&rsquo; work.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps, as it was our first experience in sledging,
+it was as well we were not able to remain absent for
+a greater length of time. As an instance of the
+manner in which the different articles increased in
+weight during the autumn travelling, we found on our
+return to the ship that the tent which had previously
+weighed 32 lbs. had increased to 55 lbs., the coverlet
+from 21 lbs. to 48 lbs., the lower robe from 18 lbs. to
+40 lbs., the floor-cloth from 11 lbs. to 29 lbs., and
+everything else in proportion! This increase is due
+to the absorption of all moisture, which instantly
+freezes. In the spring, although the temperature is
+far lower, this moisture, even when frozen, is extracted
+by exposure to the sun. In the autumn this is impossible,
+as the sun has disappeared.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:892px; height:580px" src="images/img176.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">WINTER QUARTERS, H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT.&rdquo;</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page151" id="page151"></a>151</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XIII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">WINTER QUARTERS.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Let winter come! let polar spirits sweep</p>
+<p class="i05">The dark&rsquo;ning world and tempest-troubled deep.</p>
+<p class="i05">Though boundless snows the withered heath deform,</p>
+<p class="i05">And the dim sun <i>ne&rsquo;er</i> wanders through the storm,</p>
+<p class="i05">Yet shall the smile of social love repay</p>
+<p class="i05">With mental light the melancholy day.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Campbell.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> sledge travellers having all returned, the necessary
+preparations for passing the winter were immediately
+taken in hand.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the loss of the sun, which took its
+final departure on the 11th of October, we had for
+many days sufficient light, during five or six hours of
+the day, to enable us to carry out the manifold duties
+connected with the preparations for a winter in the
+Arctic Regions.</p>
+
+<p>Although the ship was completely frozen in, and
+the ice in which she was imprisoned was increasing
+in thickness day by day, additional precautions for
+her safety were taken by burying a couple of the
+largest anchors on shore, and freezing them into
+their holes by pouring water over them; to these
+were attached the chain cables. These we felt would
+be a perfect security for us against any off-shore gale.</p>
+
+<p>Provisions in large quantities were landed as a precaution,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page152" id="page152"></a>152</span>
+in case any unforeseen event should, during
+the winter, cause the destruction of our ship, and so
+at one fell swoop deprive us both of home and supplies.
+Out of the casks and cases so landed a spacious
+house was constructed, capable, if necessary, of affording
+accommodation to our entire party. This house,
+which went by the name of &ldquo;Markham Hall,&rdquo; was
+used as a receptacle for sails, rope, sledge gear, and
+all articles that could not be conveniently stowed
+under hatches on board. Its dimensions were forty-nine
+feet long, by twelve feet wide, and ten feet high.
+The mainsail was used to roof it over. It was altogether
+a very grand edifice, and we were, and I think
+with some reason, very proud at the result of our
+architectural skill.</p>
+
+<p>The building mania seemed to be very prevalent
+amongst the officers, the majority of whom employed
+themselves in constructing snow-houses for various
+purposes near the ship. One officer went so far as to
+commence a <i>colonnade</i>, reaching from the shore to
+the ship, the pillars to be made of frozen blocks of
+snow, but the undertaking was of too gigantic a nature
+to be carried out with any hope of success, and was
+abandoned after a few days&rsquo; work.</p>
+
+<p>A wooden observatory, brought out from England
+for the express purpose, was set up for the transit
+instrument, and this with a house adjoining, in which
+was placed the alt-azimuth instrument, being the
+head-quarters of our astronomical observers, Parr
+and May, went by the name of &ldquo;Greenwich.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page153" id="page153"></a>153</span></p>
+
+<p class="center pt2">DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING THE MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY
+AT &ldquo;KEW.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:416px; height:735px" src="images/img179.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class="ws f90" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcc" colspan="2"><span class="sc">Explanation of Plan.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">A</td> <td class="tcl">The Unifilar House.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">B</td> <td class="tcl">The Barrow Dip Circle House.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">C</td> <td class="tcl">The Declinometer House.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">DD</td> <td class="tcl">Passage connecting A and B, 37½ ft. in length.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">EEE</td> <td class="tcl">The main passage, 120 ft. long.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">F</td> <td class="tcl">Passage leading to Declinometer House, 44 ft. from entrance.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">G</td> <td class="tcl">The main, and only, entrance. Distant from the <i>Alert</i> 504 ft.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tcl">All houses and passages were &ldquo;sub-glacial.&rdquo;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pt2">Snow-houses were constructed on shore for the
+several magnetic instruments, and these latter were
+securely fixed by being firmly frozen on snow pedestals.
+The three houses in which the instruments
+were placed were connected, one with the other, by
+sub-glacial passages, one being no less than a hundred
+and twenty feet in length. The whole establishment,
+which was most complete and reflected great credit
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page154" id="page154"></a>154</span>
+on its architect, was called &ldquo;Kew.&rdquo; Giffard and
+myself were the two officers entrusted with the charge
+of the magnetic observations, and many a cold and
+comfortless hour had we to spend, in our endeavours
+to add to the slight knowledge we possess in this
+interesting branch of science.</p>
+
+<p>Several other snow-houses were built for various
+purposes. One was for the reception of our powder,
+as it is most important that such a dangerous and
+combustible article should be removed from the ship,
+where of necessity so many fires have to be kept up.
+The place in which the powder was stored was called
+&ldquo;Woolwich.&rdquo; Others were constructed in which were
+deposited all our salt beef for present use, and these
+buildings, of course, went by the name of &ldquo;Deptford,&rdquo;
+after our great naval victualling depôt in England.</p>
+
+<p>Altogether the neighbourhood of our winter quarters
+had the appearance of a young thriving settlement
+rapidly springing into maturity, rendering what
+would otherwise have been a barren and desolate
+scene, one of cheerful life and activity.</p>
+
+<p>The salt beef, which was exceptionally tough and
+salt, more so indeed than the ordinary salt &ldquo;junk&rdquo;
+used in the navy, was kept in a snow-house; because
+we found, by experiment, that it was rendered more
+palatable by so doing. In all probability the process
+of congelation tended to extract, or precipitate, a very
+large portion of the saline matter with which it was
+impregnated, and thus deprived it, to some extent, of
+its hardness and saltness.</p>
+
+<p>By the 26th of October the ship was completely
+&ldquo;housed&rdquo; in by a set of awnings, extending from the
+after part of the top-gallant forecastle to the mizzen-mast.
+This &ldquo;housing&rdquo; was made of a material
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page155" id="page155"></a>155</span>
+called tilt cloth, similar to that used to cover waggons
+in England. It was spread on spars lashed between
+the masts, having curtains on each side so fitted that
+they could readily and easily be triced up when required
+for purposes of ventilation. Hanging lamps
+were suspended from the spars over the centre of the
+deck, which were kept alight night and day. The
+funnel, which was provided with a hinge, was lowered
+down, and formed a famous and convenient stow-hole
+for rope. The number of coils that were deposited
+in it was truly marvellous.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:732px; height:785px" src="images/img181.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">FLAG-STAFF POINT.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page156" id="page156"></a>156</span></p>
+
+<p>Two gangways were cut in the ship&rsquo;s side: the one
+on the port side being used as the general one for
+entrance and exit; the one on the starboard for carrying
+out all slops and dirt to a large dirt-heap established
+between the hummocks, some hundred yards
+from the ship. A smaller dirt-heap was temporarily
+used nearer the ship, the accumulations being removed
+to the larger one once or twice a week.</p>
+
+<p>Although, as a rule, the snow was not well adapted
+for building purposes on account of its consistency,
+we were able to supply ourselves with blocks from
+certain places where the snow had drifted in large
+quantities and hardened by pressure.</p>
+
+<p>A snow wall, constructed from solid blocks obtained
+from these quarries, was formed round the ship at
+about six feet distance, and at the height of about
+four feet. When this was completed the space between
+the ship&rsquo;s side and this wall was filled in with
+snow, reaching as high as the fore and main channels,
+forming a perfectly solid and impervious embankment
+that would effectually aid in preserving the warmth of
+the ship. The upper deck was cleared of all superfluous
+articles, and was covered with snow about
+twelve inches deep. A layer of gravel and ashes was
+strewn over the surface; but I am not sure that we
+benefited much by this measure, for it was rendered
+so slippery by being frozen that it was by no means
+an easy matter to walk on it.</p>
+
+<p>All skylights and hatchways were carefully covered
+up, two only of the latter being kept open as a means
+of ingress and egress. These were so constructed
+with porches and double doors as to prevent the admission
+of the outside air. The doors, being fitted
+with weights, were made self-shutting, so that the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page157" id="page157"></a>157</span>
+closing of one door was insured before the opening of
+the other. Snow walls were also built up round the
+porches, and in fact round the hatchways and skylights
+not in use, so as to render them all the more
+impervious to the cold air.</p>
+
+<p>Round the funnel of the galley fire there was a
+large space, inclosed by a wall of snow, in which was
+deposited every morning a supply of ice or frozen
+snow, to be converted into water sufficient to last
+twenty-four hours. The ice for this purpose was procured
+from a large floe about one hundred and fifty
+yards from the ship, which in all probability was
+formed by the thawing and subsequent re-freezing of
+the snow on its surface. When it was difficult to find
+work for the men to do outside the ship during the
+winter, they were employed in conveying this ice to a
+large depôt that was formed close to the vessel, protected
+from the Eskimo dogs by a snow wall, from
+which during gales of wind or other bad weather we
+were able to supply ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>Our boats were all hauled up in a safe position on
+shore. Sails were left bent, but securely furled and
+covered. Ropes that were not unrove were carefully
+hauled taut, so as to prevent our being kept awake
+during a gale of wind by an uninterrupted &ldquo;devil&rsquo;s
+tattoo&rdquo;&mdash;that is, the continual flapping of a rope
+against a spar, which produces a very aggravating
+and monotonous sound.</p>
+
+<p>Former expeditions were supplied with Sylvester&rsquo;s
+warming apparatus, which, by means of pipes leading
+along the whole length of the ship, warmed the
+&ldquo;between decks&rdquo; with hot air. The only means for
+heating the vessel at our disposal were by stoves.
+These were placed in various parts of the ship, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page158" id="page158"></a>158</span>
+put under the charge of men who were periodically
+selected for this service. Stringent regulations were
+issued regarding the economical consumption of fuel,
+and also to guard against all accidents from fire.</p>
+
+<p>As it is necessary in all ships wintering in the
+Arctic Regions to devote a certain place to the washing
+and drying of clothes in which a high temperature
+can be constantly kept, we appointed for this purpose
+a compartment on the fore part of the lower deck,
+commonly called the fore-peak. The men had certain
+days during the week allotted to them for the use
+of this place, and it was found that clothes washed
+and hung up one afternoon would be invariably dry
+on the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>The vapour arising in this room did not reach the
+deck on which the men lived, but was conveyed
+through a trap hatch leading into the fore-peak to
+a large space under the top-gallant forecastle, inclosed
+by a snow wall and made its exit through an up-take
+formed of a piece of funnelling. The compartment
+was heated by a stove, the fire in which was kept
+burning night and day.</p>
+
+<p>The very difficult question of ventilation below was
+carefully considered. It is one of the most important
+and serious matters that can come under the consideration
+of the commander of an Arctic expedition.
+Nothing is so essential to the preservation of health
+as the pure and free circulation of air on the living
+deck.</p>
+
+<p>In this respect we were not so well off as our predecessors,
+for they, being supplied with the Sylvester
+heating apparatus, were able to admit a more constant
+current of air, and thus keep their habitable
+deck in a better state and more free from condensation
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page159" id="page159"></a>159</span>
+than ours. We found it a very difficult matter
+to prevent in the slightest degree the accumulation
+of moisture on the beams overhead, caused by the
+condensation formed by the number of people living
+on the deck, and by the vapour arising from the
+galley fire. Several up-takes and down-takes were
+fitted in holes cut through the upper deck in our
+attempts to remedy this serious defect, but as a rule
+they had little effect in counteracting it. Men were
+incessantly employed during the winter in wiping
+the moisture off the beams with cloths. If the hatchway
+doors were kept open, even for a short time,
+this moisture was at once converted into ice, which,
+of course, thawed and dripped immediately as the temperature
+was raised. This drip was a constant source
+of annoyance to us during the whole winter, and it
+was one to which we had, in part, to submit.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst all these necessary preparations for the
+safety and warmth of the ship were being carried
+out, the comforts of those who were about to brave
+the rigours of an Arctic winter were not forgotten.
+Warm garments were issued, consisting principally
+of a complete suit of seal-skins and warm woollen
+guernseys. It must not be supposed that our seal-skins
+were of the same material as those soft fur
+jackets so much in vogue with the fair ones at home.
+Ours were obtained from the ordinary Greenland
+seals, whose skins are covered with coarse bristly
+hairs. They were, nevertheless, quite as warm, and
+were indeed our favourite articles of clothing after
+the unpleasant aroma, which seems inseparable from
+clothing of this description, had worn off, or until
+we had become so accustomed to it as to fail to
+notice it!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page160" id="page160"></a>160</span></p>
+
+<p>Carpet boots, or moccasins made of moose-skin,
+were worn on the feet. The former were furnished
+with tops, made of duffel, reaching as high as the
+knees, and with cork soles over an inch thick. With
+any temperature below zero leather boots and shoes
+must be discontinued, as they freeze so hard that
+the material loses its flexibility, and renders the foot
+in consequence more liable to frost-bite. Moccasins,
+worn over a couple of pairs of blanket wrappers, and
+a pair of thick woollen stockings reaching above the
+knee, are undoubtedly the most comfortable foot-gear,
+and the best adapted for low temperatures. Blanket
+wrappers are, as their name indicates, strips of
+blanket, generally about sixteen inches square, worn
+folded round the feet in lieu of socks and stockings,
+than which they are infinitely warmer.</p>
+
+<p>As a rule, officers and men were dressed alike.
+Occasionally some of the former would make their
+appearance in long fur coats with hoods that they
+had obtained from the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company&rsquo;s
+store and other places in London, but the majority
+adhered to the clothing supplied to them by Government.</p>
+
+<p>A special winter routine was made out, and commenced
+shortly after the return of the sledge parties.
+It was strictly adhered to through the long winter
+night that ensued.</p>
+
+<p>I must not omit to mention the duty of keeping
+open the &ldquo;fire hole&rdquo;&mdash;a very necessary and important
+precaution, that must be taken, in order to be able
+to obtain a supply of water in case of fire breaking
+out on board. As a rule, in all ships that have
+wintered in the Arctic Regions, the water has frozen
+below the suction valves of the pumps, thus rendering
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page161" id="page161"></a>161</span>
+them totally useless. In order, therefore, to obtain
+water, a hole was invariably cut through the ice
+near the ship, which was generally placed in charge
+of the quarter-master of the watch, whose duty it was
+from time to time to clear off the young ice from its
+surface, so that at any moment water might be
+obtained in buckets. In the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; in consequence
+of our valves being much lower, our pumps were
+never incapacitated from this cause; still they were
+liable to be rendered useless by the water in the
+pipes becoming frozen. We therefore always kept
+our fire-hole in working order. It was close to the
+bow of the vessel, and was inclosed by a snow hut,
+so as to guard against the danger of anybody falling
+in whilst walking about in the dark. By fixing a
+tide-pole in the hole, and by devising a self-registering
+apparatus with a line leading from the tide-pole
+to the forecastle of the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; we were able to
+obtain a very complete and valuable series of tidal
+observations. From having the registering-gauge on
+board the ship, these observations were continued
+uninterruptedly, and were unaffected by gales of wind
+or bad weather, that would otherwise have prevented
+any one from going outside the vessel in order to
+note them.</p>
+
+<p>Thermometric observations were, as may be imagined,
+very carefully attended to, and the temperatures
+both inside and outside the ship duly registered.
+Maximum and minimum thermometers, by which
+the greatest heat and the greatest cold for each
+consecutive twenty-four hours were recorded, were
+established in different places, and were noted every
+day at noon by an officer especially appointed for
+that duty.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page162" id="page162"></a>162</span></p>
+
+<p>Each compartment in the ship was supplied with
+one of these thermometers, and on the living deck
+the temperatures at three different heights&mdash;namely,
+at the deck, about half-way up, and at the beams&mdash;were
+daily registered. For the outside air one of the
+ice-saw triangles was erected on the floe, sufficiently
+distant from the ship to neutralize any influence that
+might be derived from her presence, and on this, at
+the height of about twelve feet, were placed several
+thermometers. In addition to these, there were other
+thermometers on the hill about a quarter of a mile
+from the ship, and about one hundred yards above
+the level of the sea, so that we were able to obtain a
+correct mean of the true temperature of the air. We
+were also able to ascertain the temperature of the
+snow, and the ground at different depths; and also, by
+means of solar radiation thermometers, we succeeded,
+on the return of the sun, in getting the temperature
+due to its rays at various altitudes.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page163" id="page163"></a>163</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XIV.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Haste thee, Nymph, and bring with thee</p>
+<p class="i05">Jest and youthful jollity,</p>
+<p class="i05">Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles,</p>
+<p class="i05">Nods, and becks, and wreathed smiles,</p>
+<p class="i05">Sport that wrinkled Care derides,</p>
+<p class="i05">And Laughter holding both his sides.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Milton.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Sir Edward Parry,</span> during his first and subsequent
+winters in the Arctic Regions, fully recognized the
+importance of not only exercising and improving the
+minds of those under his command, during the long
+period of enforced inaction, but also of amusing them,
+and letting them feel that they also were assisting in
+the amusement of their shipmates. To do this he
+instituted an evening school on the lower deck, the
+officers acting as teachers; and he established periodicals,
+dramatic and other entertainments, in which
+he himself joined and took a conspicuous part.</p>
+
+<p>His wise example has been generally followed by
+the different expeditions that subsequently wintered
+in the Arctic Regions.</p>
+
+<p>It is, in fact, very necessary to exercise both the
+physical and mental powers of the men during the dark
+months, for when once the ship has been safely
+established in winter quarters little work remains to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page164" id="page164"></a>164</span>
+be done. The officers are constantly employed in
+taking and working up observations in various branches
+of science; but the seaman has little to do but reflect
+on, and possibly brood over, his situation. It is,
+therefore, absolutely essential that some means should
+be devised to drive from him all unpleasant thoughts,
+and to make him feel that it is in his power to relieve
+the tedium of what would otherwise be a long and
+monotonous winter.</p>
+
+<p>Each ship had been provided, before leaving
+England, with a printing-press, and an officer and
+seaman<a name="fa1j" id="fa1j" href="#ft1j"><span class="sp">1</span></a> had been instructed in its use.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as it was set up and in working order, the
+following prospectus was issued by the &ldquo;firm.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<p class="center">&ldquo;THE ARCTIC PRINTING OFFICE.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Messrs. Giffard and Symons beg to inform the public that they
+have obtained&mdash;at an immense cost and with infinite trouble&mdash;possession
+of the extensive premises, lately occupied by Mr. Clements
+Markham, situated in Trap Lane, within half a minute&rsquo;s walk of the
+foremost Quarter Deck Ladder, and easily accessible to all parts of
+the city.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;They have fitted up their new establishment&mdash;<i>regardless of expense</i>&mdash;with
+all the <i>latest inventions</i> and <i>newest machinery</i>, to enable
+them to carry on the noble art of printing in a style and with a
+rapidity hitherto quite unattainable.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;They therefore expect from the public that support and assistance
+which it always gives to the <i>truly deserving</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Charges moderate. No credit given. All work required to be
+executed to be paid for in advance.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;N.B. Everything undertaken promptly and correctly executed.</p>
+
+<p>&emsp;&emsp;&ldquo;H.M.S. &lsquo;Alert,&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&ldquo;July 28, 1875.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The &ldquo;cost&rdquo; and &ldquo;trouble&rdquo; alluded to in this production,
+that were expended in obtaining a convenient
+place in which to carry out the &ldquo;noble art of printing,&rdquo;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page165" id="page165"></a>165</span>
+were caused by the fact that our photographers were
+equally anxious, with our printers, to possess themselves
+of the small cabin lately occupied by my cousin,
+and which is so grandiloquently alluded to as &ldquo;extensive
+premises.&rdquo; In fact, for some little time it
+was a very sore and vexed question between those two
+celebrated and energetic firms. Trap Lane was so
+called in consequence of the after-hold being immediately
+outside the door of the cabin; and it occasionally
+served as a very disagreeable kind of man-trap
+when, through inadvertence, the hatch had not been
+replaced. As this part of the ship was, during the
+early part of her commission, in total darkness, owing
+to the piles of stores that were stowed in every available
+corner, it is no wonder that unsuspecting individuals
+should occasionally have fallen into the trap!</p>
+
+<p>Our printing-press was, it is almost needless to say,
+of great use to us during the winter; for, although it
+never printed very much for the public service, it was
+constantly called into requisition for the purpose of
+striking off programmes for our dramatic and other
+entertainments; and on such important events as
+birthdays and Christmas-day we indulged in the
+extravagance of printed bills of fare. On the whole
+the printing establishment on board the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;
+tended very materially to beguile the tedium of our
+long nights, and must therefore be regarded as a
+decided success.</p>
+
+<p>Our school was opened on the 1st of November;
+from which date, until the reappearance of the
+sun, the attendance was regular and constant. It
+was composed of nearly the whole ship&rsquo;s company,
+and was divided into classes under the direct superintendence
+of the officers. Reading, writing, history,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page166" id="page166"></a>166</span>
+arithmetic, and navigation were the principal subjects
+in which the pupils were instructed.</p>
+
+<p>The school was held on the lower deck between
+eight and nine o&rsquo;clock in the evening, the classes
+occupying the different mess-tables. Only two men
+out of the entire ship&rsquo;s company were unable to read
+and write, and these two men were placed in a class
+with two others, who were unable to read and write
+English.<a name="fa2j" id="fa2j" href="#ft2j"><span class="sp">2</span></a> This class was presided over by the
+doctor, who kindly volunteered to devote himself to
+the instruction of the &ldquo;cripples,&rdquo; as they were facetiously
+called.</p>
+
+<p>As an illustration of the improvement which has
+taken place in the education of the men belonging
+to the Royal Navy during the last half-century, it
+may be mentioned that, whereas in Parry&rsquo;s time it
+was quite the exception to find a man that could
+read or write, with us the exception was entirely
+the other way, only two men out of fifty-five being
+ignorant of those accomplishments.</p>
+
+<p>Never were seen such painstaking and willing
+scholars as our men showed themselves to be. It
+is impossible to conceive a more orderly or well-conducted
+school, and it was a pleasure to the
+masters to devote their time to classes that evinced
+such an earnest desire of acquiring knowledge as
+did those on board the &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Here might be observed a staid old seaman, whose
+great brawny hand appeared more suited to grasp
+the marline-spike than the pen, vainly endeavouring,
+with his elbows squared, his weather-beaten face
+close down over his work, and his tongue thrust
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page167" id="page167"></a>167</span>
+out, to arrive at some satisfactory result in a simple
+addition sum. As a contrast to this, at the opposite
+table might be seen a smart young sailor, who had
+distanced all his competitors in arithmetic, asking
+abstruse questions in mensuration of such a nature
+as to make even his tutor feel uncomfortable!</p>
+
+<p>After the classes were dismissed, the men enjoyed
+an uninterrupted evening to themselves. Games of
+various descriptions, such as chess, bagatelle, draughts,
+and cribbage, had been purchased for their amusement
+before leaving England, and were in constant requisition
+during the winter. A large space on the starboard
+side of the deck, abaft the living deck, was allotted
+to the smokers, and here were held our dramatic and
+weekly entertainments on Thursdays. On Sundays
+Divine service was performed in the same place.</p>
+
+<p>Books were also a source of great amusement and
+interest to many of the men who were studiously
+inclined, as the well-thumbed volumes in our library
+soon testified. Several men wrote regular journals,
+which were even kept up by a few whilst they were
+sledging. Amongst the officers, chess, backgammon,
+and a rubber in the captain&rsquo;s cabin, formed the
+chief amusements. Although gambling is discountenanced
+(or ought to be) on board every well-regulated
+man of war, we so far forgot ourselves
+as to indulge largely in this vice. Seldom was a
+game played without a stake on the result! The
+stakes, too, were exorbitant, frequently as much as one
+lucifer match per game! It must be remembered
+that matches were very scarce and precious articles
+with us, and it was therefore a very high and
+valuable stake. On one occasion, one of my messmates
+was so rash as to wager a tallow-candle on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page168" id="page168"></a>168</span>
+result of a game; but this was an offer of such
+magnitude that no one was sufficiently brave or sporting
+to accept it.</p>
+
+<p>Among the many valuable gifts showered upon
+us by kind and generous friends at home was an
+excellent piano, and fortunately amongst the officers
+there was a very talented musician, to whose good
+nature and willing efforts to please must be attributed
+many a pleasant hour, when our hearts were warmed
+by well-known airs bringing back happy home
+memories.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday evenings were always devoted to dramatic
+entertainments, magic-lantern exhibitions, instructive
+lectures, reading, and music both vocal and instrumental.
+These entertainments were kept up with
+the same spirit, and without a break, during the
+whole winter. They went by the name of our
+&ldquo;Thursday Pops,&rdquo; and afforded much pleasure and
+amusement. They were announced to the general
+Arctic public by the following printed notice, which
+was widely circulated.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<p class="center">H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="center">THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series
+of popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings, recitations,
+and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble
+or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great
+number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment
+will be given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Programme</span>:</p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl" colspan="2"><i>Astronomical Lecture</i> (with discussion)</td> <td class="tcr">Capt. <span class="sc">Nares</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Song</i></td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;I knew that I was dreaming&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. <span class="sc">Good</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Song</i></td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Watercresses&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. <span class="sc">Shirley</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Reading</i></td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;The Jumping Frog&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Dr. <span class="sc">Moss</span>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page169" id="page169"></a>169</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Song</i></td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;An Englishman am I&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. <span class="sc">Cane</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Song</i></td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Broken down&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. <span class="sc">Bryant</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Glee</i></td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;The Wreath&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Messrs. <span class="sc">Aldrich</span>, <span class="sc">Pullen</span>, and <span class="sc">Rawson</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl"><i>Song</i></td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;The White Squall&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. <span class="sc">Maskell</span>.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">God save the Queen.</p>
+
+<p class="center">No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o&rsquo;clock</p>
+
+<p class="center">Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This was the first notification issued regarding our
+weekly entertainments, and, coming out a day or two
+before the performance, it naturally caused considerable
+excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic playgoing
+world!</p>
+
+<p>Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the
+legitimate drama, these entertainments were always
+preceded by a lecture delivered by one of the officers,
+on some interesting and at the same time instructive
+subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence
+of the audience. A list of the lectures so delivered
+cannot fail to be of interest.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;1. On astronomy</td> <td class="tcl">Capt. Nares.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;2. A few words on magnetism</td> <td class="tcl">Lieut. Giffard.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;3. On geology</td> <td class="tcl">Capt. Feilden.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;4. A few words on meteorology</td> <td class="tcl">Lieut. Aldrich.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;5. A few words on steam</td> <td class="tcl">Mr. Wootton.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;6. Mock moons under the microscope</td> <td class="tcl">Dr. Moss.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;7. On light</td> <td class="tcl">Lieut. Parr.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;8. An historical lecture</td> <td class="tcl">Mr. White.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;9. A few words on astronomy</td> <td class="tcl">Com. Markham.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">10. Our food in the arctic regions</td> <td class="tcl">Dr. Colan.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">11. A few words on arctic plants</td> <td class="tcl">Rev. H. W. Pullen.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">12. On hydrostatics</td> <td class="tcl">Lieut. May.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">13. Sledging experiences</td> <td class="tcl">Capt. Nares.</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures,
+and I have not the slightest doubt that all would
+have done so had there been any more Thursdays
+to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship&rsquo;s
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page170" id="page170"></a>170</span>
+company, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the
+readings and songs that followed, in the performance
+of which they all, with only one or two exceptions,
+took part.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:791px; height:682px" src="images/img196.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE&mdash;SCENE FROM &ldquo;ALADDIN AND THE WONDERFUL
+SCAMP.&rdquo;</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The first real dramatic entertainment came off on
+the following Thursday. Our plan was for the men
+to act one piece and the officers another, and this
+was found to work very well. But the rehearsals
+were a difficulty, and we were frequently compelled
+to shut ourselves up in our own cabins in order to
+secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable us
+to become perfect in our different parts.</p>
+
+<p>The costumes were, of course, a subject of much
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page171" id="page171"></a>171</span>
+discussion and deep interest. The making up of
+dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from musk-ox
+skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and
+employed minds and fingers that had hitherto been
+strangers to such occupations. Many were the needles
+broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before
+our ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts
+had to be converted into the robes of a lovely oriental
+princess; old uniform coats were beautified with
+spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable
+habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century;
+whilst a wicked magician, of the Hebrew persuasion,
+appeared in a coat of unmistakeable clerical cut.</p>
+
+<p>Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and
+the scenic arrangements under the direction of
+Moss, who was also the artist, could not be excelled.
+Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host
+in himself, adding materially to the success of the
+entertainments. In fact, officers and men vied with
+each other in their endeavours to promote amusement
+and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not
+of the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors
+fully compensated for this deficiency.</p>
+
+<p>We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured
+critics. These pests do not venture across the Arctic
+Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic Theatre
+(re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came
+with a firm resolve to please or be pleased. Acting
+upon this determination, our entertainments were
+bound to be successful. The following prologue, composed
+for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the
+opening of our theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of
+November, 1875.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page172" id="page172"></a>172</span></p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p class="i05">&ldquo;Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day,</p>
+<p>We bid you welcome to our opening play:</p>
+<p>You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear</p>
+<p>Of scornful wit or captious critic here.</p>
+<p>To-day we welcome you, and not to-night,</p>
+<p>For all is noon with us&mdash;all summer bright;</p>
+<p>And though the southern sun has ceased to pour</p>
+<p>His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore&mdash;</p>
+<p>Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold</p>
+<p>The crystal corners of our hummocks bold;</p>
+<p>We bear a warm soft light that never fades&mdash;</p>
+<p>A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades;</p>
+<p>All trustful of each other&rsquo;s love, we learn</p>
+<p>With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn;</p>
+<p>And suns may set, and twilights disappear&mdash;</p>
+<p>They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer;</p>
+<p>Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill</p>
+<p>Our laughter glad&mdash;for laugh, brave boys, we will;</p>
+<p>Kindling yet once again the genial glow</p>
+<p>Of happy English homes on Arctic floe.</p>
+
+<p class="i05 s">&ldquo;Yet once again; for none would here forget</p>
+<p>We are but sons of fathers living yet;</p>
+<p>In work and play alike, we but renew</p>
+<p>The deeds of men who taught us what to do.</p>
+<p>And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar</p>
+<p>To loftier flights than theirs who went before;</p>
+<p>Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led,</p>
+<p>In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread;</p>
+<p>We love to read on history&rsquo;s faithful page,</p>
+<p>Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage,</p>
+<p>And boldly for our brave forerunners claim</p>
+<p>An Arctic &lsquo;cast&rsquo; already known to fame.</p>
+
+<p class="i05 s">&ldquo;Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say</p>
+<p>What we have done to while your hours away.</p>
+<p>Such as we have, we bring you of our best,</p>
+<p>And to your kind forbearance leave the rest.</p>
+<p>One only grief is ours, and you shall share</p>
+<p>With us the burden of that gentle care.</p>
+<p>One cherished form we miss&mdash;one touch alone&mdash;</p>
+<p>One glance of love&mdash;one tender, thrilling tone.</p>
+<p>Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle</p>
+<p>The dear ones move, and minister, and smile.
+   <span class="pagenum"><a name="page173" id="page173"></a>173</span></p>
+<p>We would not wish them here, but this we know,</p>
+<p>Their thoughts are with us every step we go:</p>
+<p>Their life sets northward o&rsquo;er the cold, grey sea:</p>
+<p>They live in wondering what our life may be;</p>
+<p>And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul,</p>
+<p>Till each has found its true magnetic pole.</p>
+
+<p class="i05 s">&ldquo;God bless and keep them in His mighty hand&mdash;</p>
+<p>Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion
+the curtain rose, and the following programme,
+showing the plays that were acted and the cast of
+characters, was proceeded with.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<p class="center">THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE</p>
+
+<p class="center">Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, by<br />
+the powerful dramatic company of</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Hyperboreans!</span></p>
+
+<p>Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of
+the Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry
+of the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled.
+The manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this
+company, and has selected none but the very best <i>artistes</i>&mdash;the ladies
+being from England&mdash;who, having numerous other engagements, can
+remain for a short time only.</p>
+
+<p>The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of
+that celebrated artist, Professor Moss, <i>must</i> be acknowledged to be
+unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order.</p>
+
+<p>The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately
+from Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience.</p>
+
+<p class="center">At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce</p>
+
+<p class="center">THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Characters</span>:</p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">Leander Hellespont</td> <td class="tcl">Mr. Stuckberry.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Mr. Counter Balance</td> <td class="tcl">Mr. Woolley.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Gratings (Steward)</td> <td class="tcl">Mr. Burroughs.
+  <span class="pagenum"><a name="page174" id="page174"></a>174</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Mrs. Hellespont</td> <td class="tcl">Mdlle. Francombi.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Mrs. Veneer</td> <td class="tcl">Mdme. Maskelli.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">Time &emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp; The present day.<br />
+Scene &emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp; Saloon of a Boulogne steamer.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Interval of ten minutes.</p>
+
+<p>During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will sing
+<span class="sc">The Irish Barber</span>.</p>
+
+<p>After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico
+burlesque entitled</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2">VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Characters</span>:</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="width: 90%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London,
+the original parient</p></td> <td class="tclb" style="width: 20%;">Com. Markham.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the
+original lovier so gallant and gay</p></td> <td class="tclb">Mr. Egerton.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins,
+a young apprentice, in desperate love with</p></td> <td class="tclb">Mr. Rawson.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned
+soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid
+Vilikins</p></td> <td class="tclb">Mdlle. Blanc.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">Scene 1</td> <td class="tcl">Lawn of Gruffin&rsquo;s house.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Scene 2</td> <td class="tcl">Interior of Gruffin&rsquo;s house.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Scene 3</td> <td class="tcl">Lawn of Gruffin&rsquo;s house.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">God save the Queen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This, the first appearance of the &ldquo;Hyperboreans,&rdquo;
+was eminently successful, and elicited both laughter
+and applause from our very appreciative and demonstrative
+audience. Mademoiselle Blanc (Mr. White)
+made a fascinating little Dinah of six feet high,
+dressed in a Dolly Varden costume, whilst the other
+ladies were all that could be desired, and looked
+charming in their gorgeous silk and muslin dresses.</p>
+
+<p>In this respect we had a decided advantage over
+our consort, the &ldquo;Discovery;&rdquo; for her space on
+board being somewhat limited, the building of an
+ice theatre on the floe became necessary. Here,
+though the building was spacious and elegant, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page175" id="page175"></a>175</span>
+temperature was rarely above zero! The ladies were
+therefore unable to indulge in low dresses, and a
+close observer might have detected underclothing
+composed of seal-skins beneath their otherwise gay
+and brilliant costumes.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally, as the two following bills will show,
+we were agreeably surprised by the announcement
+of an entire change of programme.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<p class="center">H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="center">THURSDAY POPS.</p>
+
+<p class="center">December 16th, 1875.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!!<br />
+The Wizard of the North!!! <img style="width:36px; height:21px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/imgh.jpg" alt="" /> For one night only!!!!</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Programme</span>:<br />
+The entertainment will commence with<br />
+<span class="sc">A few Words on Steam</span>&emsp; . &emsp;&emsp; . &emsp;Mr. Wootton.<br />
+After which the only and veritable</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Wizard OF the North</span>,</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>en route</i> to his hyperborean domicile,</p>
+
+<p class="noind">will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions
+and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful
+and startling tricks:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="center">The vanishing egg.<br />
+The magic die.<br />
+The mysterious sixpence.<br />
+The magic shawl.<br />
+A startling surgical operation.<br />
+The marvellous watch trick.<br />
+Tricks with cards.<br />
+The magic bag trick.<br />
+The wonderful generating hat.<br />
+The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed with<br />
+an egg and silk handkerchief.<br />
+The inexhaustible bottle.<br />
+Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual,<br />
+preside at the orchestra.<br />
+To commence at 7.30 precisely.</p>
+
+<p class="center">God save the Queen.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page176" id="page176"></a>176</span></p>
+
+<p class="center pt2">THURSDAY POPS.</p>
+
+<p class="center">H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="center">January 20th, 1876.</p>
+
+<p class="center">GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITION<br />
+and<br />
+MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT.</p>
+
+<p class="center">To commence with<br />
+<span class="sc">A few Words on Astronomy</span>, by Com. Markham,<br />
+Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern.<br />
+To be followed by a series of</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Dissolving Views</span>,</p>
+
+<p class="center">Consisting of coloured representations of<br />
+Remarkable places in England,<br />
+Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc.<br />
+After which, the wonderful and startling adventures of</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Sindbad the Sailor</span></p>
+
+<p class="center">Will be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen.<br />
+In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like and<br />
+entertaining display of various specimens in</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Natural History</span>;</p>
+
+<p class="center">and<br />
+Lieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touching</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Tale of a Tub</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="center">To conclude with some highly amusing</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Comic Scenes</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="center">To commence at 7.30 precisely.</p>
+
+<p class="center">God save the Queen.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>These amusements may be considered light and
+frivolous, for men engaged in such a serious undertaking
+as that upon which we were embarked; still
+they all tended to one point&mdash;namely, the successful
+issue of the enterprise. For they kept the minds
+of the men employed with pleasant and agreeable
+thoughts, drove away all feelings of tedium and
+dulness, and thus assisted largely in promoting the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page177" id="page177"></a>177</span>
+general well-being and satisfactory sanitary condition
+of the expedition during the long night of nearly one
+hundred and fifty days. They effectually banished
+despondency, and assisted in making all hands
+cheerful, happy, and contented.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1j" id="ft1j" href="#fa1j"><span class="fn">1</span></a> Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2j" id="ft2j" href="#fa2j"><span class="fn">2</span></a> Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship&rsquo;s cook Dominick
+a native of Gibraltar.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page178" id="page178"></a>178</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XV.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Darkness, Light&rsquo;s eldest brother, his birthright</p>
+<p class="i05">Claimed o&rsquo;er this world, and to heaven chased light.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i20 s"><span class="sc">Donne.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p class="i3">&ldquo;Behold the wandering moon</p>
+<p>Riding near her highest noon,</p>
+<p>Like one that hath been led astray</p>
+<p>Through the heavens&rsquo; wide pathless way;</p>
+<p>And oft as if her head she bowed,</p>
+<p>Stooping through a fleecy cloud.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">Milton.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> sun, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter,
+took its final departure on the 11th of October. From
+this date darkness gradually settled upon us, reaching
+its greatest intensity on the 21st of December. The
+type of a leading article in the <i>Times</i> newspaper was
+taken by us as a test of the darkness. This was last
+read in the open air at midday on the 6th of November,
+and then only by a few with a great deal of
+difficulty. Many unsuccessful attempts were made
+on subsequent days. For a fortnight on either side
+of the 21st of December, the difference in the light
+between noon and midnight, on a clear day, was
+almost imperceptible, on a dull day it was quite inappreciable.
+Occasionally, at other times, at midday
+a faint luminous band might be observed along
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page179" id="page179"></a>179</span>
+the southern horizon, but this was all the indication
+we had of the difference between day and night.</p>
+
+<p>We did not forget to celebrate on the 21st of October
+the Battle of Trafalgar, remembering that our great
+naval hero, Nelson,<a name="fa1k" id="fa1k" href="#ft1k"><span class="sp">1</span></a> was himself an old Arctic navigator.
+Our caterers provided us with a good dinner,
+and we were regaled, as a great indulgence on such
+an auspicious occasion, with an extra glass of wine!
+Two elaborate bills of fare were placed on the table,
+on one of which was very creditably sketched the
+&ldquo;Alert&rdquo; in winter quarters, and on the other was depicted
+the Battle of Trafalgar, with the motto on
+each, &ldquo;England expects every man <i>this</i> day to do his
+duty!&rdquo; As there was a good dinner on the table,
+and the cold weather had made us wondrous hungry,
+we all responded nobly to the call!</p>
+
+<p>The 5th of November was another anniversary that
+could not pass unnoticed. On that evening the effigy
+of Guy Fawkes, ingeniously stuffed with squibs and
+seated on a cask well smeared with tar, was duly
+paraded round the upper deck, accompanied by the
+drums and fifes playing the &ldquo;Rogue&rsquo;s March.&rdquo; It
+was then dragged, on a sledge, to the summit of a
+neighbouring hummock, and there solemnly burnt in
+presence of the whole ship&rsquo;s company. The band
+continued to play until the lips and fingers of the
+fifers became so frost-bitten that they were compelled
+to desist. It was a novel sight to see the dusky
+forms of the men, clad in seal-skins, dancing round a
+blazing fire on the top of an enormous mass of ice,
+whilst in the background was the ship with her masts
+and yards thickly coated with snow, and all her ropes
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page180" id="page180"></a>180</span>
+clearly defined in the bright &ldquo;bonfire light.&rdquo; A
+beautiful balloon, manufactured by Moss out of
+various coloured tissue-papers, also formed a prominent
+feature in the evening&rsquo;s display. Unfortunately,
+shortly after it was released, and before it had
+ascended to any very great height, it caught fire and
+was quickly consumed.</p>
+
+<p>It must not be supposed, because I enumerate all
+the little incidents connected with the amusements of
+the men, that other and more important work was
+neglected. On the contrary, the officers were unceasingly
+engaged during the winter in taking scientific
+observations in their respective departments; each
+officer being awarded some special subject. These
+included observations in astronomy, magnetism, electricity,
+meteorology, tides, spectrum analysis, observations
+for the detection of the polarization of light,
+chlorine, and specific gravity estimations. The
+pursuit of these investigations was at times a matter
+of great difficulty and extreme personal discomfort.
+It necessitated attendance in, and consequent exposure
+to, a temperature many degrees below zero, for several
+hours at a time. Under these circumstances it is
+no easy matter to handle delicate instruments, the
+manipulation of which, even in a temperate climate,
+requires the utmost care and caution. Made extremely
+brittle by the intense cold, a fall to any of the small
+metal movable parts of an instrument, such as the
+needles, would be fatal, yet it is almost impossible
+to touch them with the uncovered hand. The breath
+freezing on the arcs and verniers of the instruments
+during the time of observation, and on the glasses of
+the telescopes and mirrors, adds seriously to the
+difficulty; whilst the unequal contraction of different
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page181" id="page181"></a>181</span>
+metals during intensely cold weather renders some of
+the instruments totally useless.</p>
+
+<p>Paraselenæ, or mock moons, and auroras were of
+frequent occurrence, but none of the latter were sufficiently
+bright to call for special mention. These
+phenomena were always carefully examined, and the
+results recorded. As a rule the auroras consisted of
+faint coruscations darting across the heavens through
+the zenith, frequently in the form of an irregular arch
+terminating at each end on the horizon, and generally
+accompanied by various small luminous patches.</p>
+
+<p>The lunations of the moon were periods that were
+always looked forward to, and gladly welcomed,
+affording as they did, on clear bright days, a marked
+contrast to the gruesome darkness that generally prevailed.
+These clear days were not inappropriately
+termed &ldquo;moony&rdquo; ones, and were taken advantage
+of to perform all work that was considered necessary
+outside the ship.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Rising in clouded majesty, at length</p>
+<p class="i05">The moon unveiled her peerless light</p>
+<p class="i05">And o&rsquo;er the dark her silver mantle threw.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Even on these bright silvery &ldquo;moony&rdquo; days it was
+unsafe to venture to any distance from the ship, as
+the sudden &ldquo;veiling of her peerless light&rdquo; by fog or
+clouds would produce total darkness, and so prevent
+the unfortunate wanderer from finding his way back.</p>
+
+<p>Great attention was paid to the important duty of
+seeing that a proper amount of exercise was taken
+by every soul on board. Open-air exercise was the
+more essential to health, because the air we breathed
+on board was not as pure as might be desired. This
+was inevitable, and the evil could only be partially
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page182" id="page182"></a>182</span>
+counteracted by strict attention to the enforcing of
+outdoor exercise. A walk was constructed along the
+floe near the ship, for a distance of half a mile, marked
+at every two or three yards by small heaps of empty
+preserved meat tins, placed there by our industrious
+doctor. We were thus able to take our exercise along
+this promenade even on the darkest day, and the
+number of times that each individual walked up and
+down during the day was proudly recounted at the
+dinner-table. The darkness prevented walks to any
+greater distance for a considerable time. This then
+was our fashionable lounge, and was called the
+&ldquo;Ladies&rsquo; Mile&rdquo; after the drive of the same name in
+Hyde Park.</p>
+
+<p>Our greatest annoyance was undoubtedly caused by
+the incessant drip in our cabins and elsewhere on
+board. So bad was it that all books had to be removed
+from the shelves, or from any position where
+they were in contact with the ship&rsquo;s side or the beams
+overhead. Especially over our beds did we suffer,
+and could only make certain of a dry night&rsquo;s rest by
+taking the precaution of nailing a blanket over the
+bed, or sloping one as an awning! No means that
+we could devise, although many experiments were
+tried on the living deck of the men as well as by the
+officers in their cabins, lessened the condensation from
+which we suffered, and which increased with any rise
+of temperature. One officer went so far as to light,
+and keep burning for a whole day, no less than fifty-two
+candles and one lamp in his cabin, hoping by
+these means to dry it thoroughly; but although it
+answered the purpose for a day or two, at an enormous
+cost, it was soon as bad as ever. During the time of
+his <i>illumination</i> he succeeded in raising the temperature
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page183" id="page183"></a>183</span>
+of his cabin from 40° to 75°! It is decidedly unpleasant,
+whilst writing, to have a continual stream of
+water pouring down upon your head and upon your
+paper; yet it is impossible to prevent this disagreeable
+drip.</p>
+
+<p>One of my messmates, more fortunate than his
+brother officers, had brought an umbrella with him,
+and this being spread over his chair protected him
+from the wet, and thus enabled him to read or write
+in comparative comfort, and, what was perhaps of
+greater consequence, with the perfect preservation of
+his temper.</p>
+
+<p>It may appear like affectation on my part when I
+say that any rise of temperature, during the winter,
+was viewed by us with dissatisfaction. Clad as we
+were to resist a cold of many degrees below zero, we
+were made absolutely uncomfortable by the <i>heat</i> when
+the thermometer indicated any degree with a + sign.
+The only real good that we derived from such a rise
+of temperature was that we were able more freely to
+throw open the doors leading down to the lower deck,
+and thus admit a thorough circulation of fresh air;
+on one occasion during the month of November the
+temperature rose as high as 23°, and in December it
+reached the unprecedented height (for that season of
+the year) of 35°! These, of course, were only occasional
+jumps, never of long duration, and were apparently
+produced by gales of wind from the S.W. Our
+experience at the &ldquo;Alert&rsquo;s&rdquo; winter quarters was that
+a breeze of wind raised the temperature, and that our
+coldest weather was always registered on perfectly still
+and clear days! During boisterous tempestuous
+weather the pack, although stationary, moaned and
+groaned weirdly, as if unhappy gnomes, imprisoned in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page184" id="page184"></a>184</span>
+the cold grasp of the frozen sea, were bewailing their
+hard fate, and pleading for release from their icy
+fetters. The young ice, too, in the vicinity of the ship
+cracked in a most alarming manner, each crack being
+accompanied by a sharp and loud report, and formed
+great fissures, leaving the surface, which had hitherto
+been smooth and level, rugged and uneven. Well
+might the &ldquo;Ancient Mariner,&rdquo; describing such a
+scene, say&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,</p>
+<p class="i05">Like noises in a swound.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>This movement of the ice, slight as it was, exposed
+the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; to great pressure, and although it did not
+amount to an actual &ldquo;nip,&rdquo; nor did it in any way
+cause injury to the ship, it made her list over several
+degrees. Now, as we in the ward-room were on a
+limited allowance of wine, namely two glasses a day,
+this heeling over of the vessel caused us great annoyance,
+as it prevented our glasses from being filled to
+the brim, a custom that had been rigidly followed out
+since leaving England. This curtailment of our
+&ldquo;rights,&rdquo; as we were pleased to call them, was very
+naturally regarded with a certain amount of disfavour.
+In order to lessen, if we could not entirely rectify this
+evil, we supplied ourselves with ingeniously made
+little wedges, which, being placed under the <i>lee</i> side of
+the wine-glass, brought it so nearly upright that we
+succeeded in very nearly getting our full allowance.</p>
+
+<p>The birthdays of the officers were invariably celebrated
+by the best dinners that our indefatigable and
+energetic caterers could provide, always having in
+view the chance of the ship spending three winters in
+the Arctic Regions. As a special indulgence we were
+also allowed on these occasions a glass of port wine
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page185" id="page185"></a>185</span>
+after dinner, a treat that we ordinarily had only twice
+a week. The composition of the <i>menus</i> for these
+sumptuous feasts was always a subject of anxious
+care and forethought on the part of those who were
+entrusted with this important duty. Long and
+earnest were the consultations that were held, before
+one of them was satisfactorily composed and placed
+in the printer&rsquo;s hands.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:584px; height:392px" src="images/img211.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption"></td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p class="center">MENU.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Potages.</span><br />
+Mulligatawny.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Poissons.</span><br />
+Pégouse à la Couverture de Laine.<a name="fa2k" id="fa2k" href="#ft2k"><span class="sp">2</span></a></p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Entrées.</span><br />
+Petits Pâtés d&rsquo;Homard à la Chasse.<a name="fa3k" id="fa3k" href="#ft3k"><span class="sp">3</span></a><br />
+Rognons à la Pain rôti.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Relevés.</span><br />
+Mouton rôti à l&rsquo;Anglais. &emsp; Tongues on Gimbals.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Entremets.</span><br />
+Poudin aux Raisins.<br />
+Blanc-manger à la Hummock.<br />
+Petits Pâtés d&rsquo;Hahis à la place d&rsquo;Eccleston.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Dessert.</span><br />
+Poudin glacé à la Hyperborean.<br />
+Figues. &emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp; Noce.<br />
+Gâteau à l&rsquo;lrlandais.<br />
+Café et Liqueur á la Jesson.</p>
+
+<p class="mr"><i>November 11th</i>, 1875.&emsp;&emsp;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page186" id="page186"></a>186</span></p>
+
+<p>As we were living in a land in which little could
+be obtained in the way of change, the object was to
+diversify as much as possible the names of the same
+viands, so as to make the guests believe that the
+dinners were entirely different. The names given to
+some of the dishes were decidedly original. On the
+previous page is the first <i>printed</i> bill of fare that was
+placed on the table.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after the ship had been established in winter
+quarters, a careful calculation was made of the amount
+of fresh meat we possessed.</p>
+
+<p>By fresh meat, I mean meat of the musk-oxen and
+sheep that we had killed, and not the fresh <i>preserved</i>
+meat, of which we had an ample supply. It was
+found we had sufficient to yield fourteen meals, at the
+rate of one pound per man per meal. It was, therefore,
+determined to issue a fresh meat meal twice
+every three weeks, and, at the doctor&rsquo;s recommendation,
+this was done on two consecutive days. In his
+opinion this method of apportioning it was the most
+conducive to health.</p>
+
+<p>Beer, of which we had been provided with ten hogsheads
+specially brewed for us by Allsopp, was issued,
+so long as a cask was &ldquo;on tap,&rdquo; twice a week. On
+these days half the allowance of spirits only was
+served out.</p>
+
+<p>On Sundays Divine service was regularly performed
+between decks; the morning and evening services
+being read on alternate Sundays.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page187" id="page187"></a>187</span></p>
+
+<p>Prayers were read daily on the upper deck. The
+Holy Communion was celebrated on the first Sunday
+in every month. Considering the small number of
+men from among whom the choir was selected, and
+the necessarily slight amount of practice they could
+have, the singing at church was very creditable.
+Aldrich played the accompaniment on a harmonium
+that we had obtained from the ward-room officers of
+the &ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo; before parting company with that ship
+at Disco. The credit of originating and instructing
+the choir was, of course, due to Pullen and Aldrich.</p>
+
+<p>Medical inspections were held regularly on the first
+day of each month, when every officer and man was
+minutely questioned and examined. Nothing could
+be more satisfactory than the medical report of the
+sanitary condition of the men at the conclusion of
+these examinations.</p>
+
+<p>The amount of compulsory open-air exercise that
+had to be taken by each man was two hours a day;
+but most of the men, that is to say all the working
+hands exclusive of cooks, stewards, and servants, were
+invariably at work, <i>outside</i> the ship, for at least five
+hours a day. A very favourite and at the same time
+healthy pastime of the men in their leisure hours,
+when the moon was up, was that of &ldquo;tabogganing.&rdquo;
+This consisted in dragging one of our small satellites
+or dog-sledges to the summit of a neighbouring hill,
+and then coming down, two or three on the sledge, at
+the rate of about sixty or seventy miles an hour!
+The men enjoyed this amazingly, and used to race
+one sledge against another. As they were not very
+expert in the management of these &ldquo;taboggans,&rdquo; and
+had little confidence in their own steering, they would,
+when they saw there was a chance of their sledge
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page188" id="page188"></a>188</span>
+coming to grief, tumble out and roll for some distance
+after it. Fortunately the snow was soft and they
+never came to harm.</p>
+
+<p>Rawson, who had acquired a knowledge of this
+sport in Canada, was the first to introduce it in the
+far north. The dexterity with which he managed his
+&ldquo;taboggan&rdquo; was marvellous, and he would frequently,
+accompanied by one of his messmates, come down
+the steep side of one of the highest floe-bergs in the
+vicinity of the ship. Poor &ldquo;Nellie&rdquo; could never
+understand whence the motive power of these machines
+was derived, and used to rush round barking at us in
+a frantic manner when we first started, until left far
+behind plunging in the soft snow and struggling to
+keep pace with us.</p>
+
+<p>It was wonderful how this dog withstood the cold.
+The colder the day the more she appeared to enjoy it,
+dashing about in the soft fine snow and picking up
+pieces of ice in her mouth for the purpose of having
+them thrown for her. It must be remembered that
+for any one of us to touch a piece of ice with the uncovered
+hand in a temperature 50° below zero would
+have been a very serious matter; yet Nellie was able,
+in the same temperature, to carry pieces of ice, or
+bits of metal or stone, in her mouth for hours together.
+The only cause of annoyance to the poor old doggie
+was the caking or balling of the snow between her
+toes, which used to trouble her a good deal. To
+obviate this, four little flannel moccasins were made
+for her feet; but, although she enjoyed wearing them
+and seemed to be proud of her appearance in them,
+they had to be discontinued, as we were afraid that
+the tying them on sufficiently tight to prevent their
+coming off might stop the circulation of the blood
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page189" id="page189"></a>189</span>
+and thus produce frost-bite. On the whole, however,
+Nellie throve wonderfully well, and until the following
+summer enjoyed perfect health. She was my constant
+companion wherever I went, attending me during my
+walks, and lying curled up at my feet in the observatory
+during the long hours that I was employed
+taking magnetic observations. She always slept in
+an arm-chair in my cabin, being provided with her
+own little blanket, on which her name was embroidered.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:533px; height:713px" src="images/img215.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">NELLIE.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Before concluding this chapter it will be as well to
+relate an interesting and rather curious incident connected
+with one of our Eskimo dogs.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page190" id="page190"></a>190</span></p>
+
+<p>In Aldrich&rsquo;s sledge journey to Cape Joseph Henry,
+one of his dogs (Sallie), being attacked with a fit, had
+to be cast off from the team and was no more seen by
+him during that journey.</p>
+
+<p>On crossing the floe with my sledge party about
+a week after, we were suddenly joined, to our great
+surprise, by an Eskimo dog which the men readily
+recognized as Sallie; all our attempts to make her
+approach were unsuccessful, although she followed us
+at a distance during the day and hovered round our
+camp, picking up scraps of pemmican that had been
+purposely left out for her during the night. She
+eluded all attempts at being caught, running away on
+the ice and disappearing amongst the hummocks.
+She followed us faithfully, at a distance, until the
+day we returned to the ship, when she vanished
+altogether. She was last seen on the floe about four
+miles from the &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Amid the many preparations for the winter, poor
+Sallie was forgotten and had almost passed out of
+recollection altogether, when one day in December,
+more than <i>two</i> months after she had been last seen,
+a strange dog was observed hovering round the ship.
+This strange dog proved to be the long-lost Sallie!</p>
+
+<p>No amount of coaxing would persuade her to come
+near us, and she was eventually driven off by the
+other Eskimo dogs, and took refuge on the pack. On
+the following day she again made her appearance,
+and this time we succeeded in getting her on board
+and into a place of safety. She was terribly thin and
+emaciated; but being well cared for and attended to,
+she rapidly picked up, and was eventually the
+strongest and best dog in our whole team.</p>
+
+<p>The question as to how she had existed during her
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page191" id="page191"></a>191</span>
+long absence from the ship was a difficult one to solve.
+At first it was surmised that she had attached herself
+to a pack of wolves; but this idea was scouted, as no
+tracks had been seen to lead us to believe that these
+animals existed in our neighbourhood. It is not
+probable that she obtained anything from the ship
+during the time she was missing, or that she picked
+up scraps from the other dogs, for on her appearance
+she was at once driven away by her old companions.
+The only probable conclusion that we could arrive at
+was that she had supported life by hunting and
+feasting on lemmings, for the traces of these little
+animals were the only indications that we had of the
+existence, outside our own circle, of animal life.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1k" id="ft1k" href="#fa1k"><span class="fn">1</span></a> Nelson served as a midshipman on board the &ldquo;Carcass,&rdquo; in
+Captain Phipps&rsquo; North Polar Expedition in 1773.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2k" id="ft2k" href="#fa2k"><span class="fn">2</span></a> Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft3k" id="ft3k" href="#fa3k"><span class="fn">3</span></a> The name of the cook was Hunt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page192" id="page192"></a>192</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XVI.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;So now is come our joyful&rsquo;st feast,</p>
+  <p class="i2">Let every man be jolly,</p>
+<p class="i05">Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest,</p>
+  <p class="i2">And every post with holly;</p>
+<p class="i05">Now all our neighbours&rsquo; chimneys smoke,</p>
+  <p class="i2">And Christmas blocks are burning;</p>
+<p class="i05">Their ovens they with baked meats choke,</p>
+  <p class="i2">And all their spits are turning.</p>
+<p class="i05">Without the door let sorrow lie,</p>
+  <p class="i2">And if, for cold, it hap to die,</p>
+<p class="i05">We&rsquo;ll bury&rsquo;t in a Christmas pye,</p>
+  <p class="i2">And ever more be merry.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">Wither.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">On</span> the 21st of December the sun reached its greatest
+southern declination. We felt on that day that we
+had cause for rejoicing. The sun had arrived at the
+limit of its southern journey, and now it would, every
+day, be travelling to the northward, and therefore in
+our direction. So rapidly had the time passed that
+Christmas stole upon us unawares, and we were only
+reminded of its approach by the strong odour of good
+things being cooked that pervaded the whole ship,
+bringing to our minds the fact that preparations for
+its celebration had actually commenced. Nothing
+was omitted that could possibly add to the comfort
+and enjoyment of the men on this day. The ship&rsquo;s
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page193" id="page193"></a>193</span>
+stores were thrown open and they were allowed to
+provide themselves with an unlimited amount, so
+long as there was no waste, of flour, raisins, sugar,
+and preserved fruits, and in addition to the regular
+daily allowance of meat, a pound of musk-ox beef and
+a pound of mutton were issued to each man. For
+the two previous days, during which they had been
+disturbed as little as possible, the men were engaged
+in making the necessary preparations for spending
+their Christmas as happily and as socially as if they
+were in a more genial climate. It must be remembered
+that this was a day looked forward to by
+all, not only in the light of a festival, but because it
+was also regarded as the turning-point of the winter.
+After Christmas every day would bring us nearer to
+the sun, whose bright face we all so ardently wished
+to welcome once more. Moreover, Christmas day,
+to a community situated as we were, &ldquo;away from the
+busy haunts of men,&rdquo; must always be regarded as an
+epoch, a day looked forward to, and when passed, a
+day from which many events are dated.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the supplies afforded by the stores of
+the ship, we were largely indebted to kind, and in
+several instances unknown, friends and well-wishers
+to the expedition in England for many little articles
+that assisted to amuse our men during this festive
+season. Amongst these the kind and generous ladies
+of Queenstown must not be forgotten. These ladies
+had, previous to our departure from England, formed
+themselves into a Committee, and had sent to each
+ship a large Christmas-box containing many useful,
+and indeed valuable, articles. Each officer received
+some little package, personally directed to himself,
+and every man was presented with some pretty little
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page194" id="page194"></a>194</span>
+Christmas-box. Nothing could have been more
+happily thought of, and it would have done the fair
+donors good could they but have witnessed the pleasure
+testified by the recipients at the distribution of
+the contents of their case.</p>
+
+<p>I must not omit to mention another Christmas-box,
+kindly sent by Mr. Mason, the inventor, I believe,
+of &ldquo;Somebody&rsquo;s Luggage,&rdquo; and containing all sorts
+of amusing little articles suitable either for decorating
+a table or a Christmas-tree.</p>
+
+<p>Another act of kindness on the part of our friends
+in England was also much appreciated by both officers
+and men. A young lady, a relative of one of the
+officers, had taken the trouble to direct a letter to
+each individual on board, containing a beautiful
+Christmas card. To make it appear as if they had
+been actually delivered through the post, a second-hand
+postage-stamp had been affixed to each envelope.
+Her kind forethought afforded a great deal of pleasure
+to the recipients of those letters.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas eve was spent very merrily by all on
+board the &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo; The piano was carried out from
+the ward-room to the main deck, where dancing was
+kept up with great animation until eleven o&rsquo;clock!
+It is wonderful how fond the English man-of-war&rsquo;s
+man is of dancing. So long as he can obtain music
+and a partner to dance with, without regard to sex,
+he will continue to fling his legs about with great
+vigour until compelled by heat and exhaustion to
+desist! The men on board the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; were no
+exception to this rule; one and all joined in the dance,
+and seemed thoroughly to enjoy it. Poor Aldrich did
+not get a moment&rsquo;s peace. As soon as one tune was
+finished, he was called upon for another. Polka,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page195" id="page195"></a>195</span>
+waltz, and galop followed each other in rapid succession,
+officers and men joining alike in the general
+hilarity of the evening.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas morning broke cold and clear; its stillness
+occasionally interrupted by light puffs of wind
+from the S.W. Divine service was performed in the
+forenoon, the pulpit being decorated with branches
+of artificial holly. When church was over, a little
+exercise was taken on the &ldquo;ladies&rsquo; mile.&rdquo; On my
+return I found my cabin brightened up by small
+twigs of variegated holly, a delicate and touching
+attention on the part of some of my messmates, who
+had provided themselves with artificial branches of
+this plant before leaving England. At one o&rsquo;clock,
+everything being in readiness, the officers were invited
+to inspect the lower deck. Preceded by our
+drum and fife band playing the &ldquo;Roast Beef of Old
+England,&rdquo; we paid a formal visit to the men&rsquo;s
+quarters. The lower deck was beautifully and tastefully
+decorated with flags, coloured tinsel paper, and
+artificial flowers, whilst the different mess tables were
+literally groaning under the weight of the good cheer
+that adorned them. Everything had a cheerful and
+comfortable appearance, and, above all, the radiant
+healthy-looking faces, beaming with pleasure, that
+so cordially and heartily greeted us with the compliments
+of the season. Of course, dancing was the
+prominent feature of the afternoon, Aldrich, with his
+usual good nature, being again victimized at the
+piano. At six o&rsquo;clock, for on such an important
+occasion we departed from our usual dinner hour
+of half-past two, we all assembled in the ward-room
+for dinner, and great was our astonishment and
+delight at seeing in the centre of our table a magnificent
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page196" id="page196"></a>196</span>
+bouquet of artificial flowers. This was, I
+believe, the happy thought of a lady who had recently
+been admitted into the circle of &ldquo;Arctic relations.&rdquo;
+The bright-coloured flowers, reminding us of home
+associations, were more thoroughly appreciated than
+even the good dinner which was provided for us, for
+which reference must be made to the following <i>menu</i>,
+composed by Pullen:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="center pt2 f90">H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>À la Juliènne soup is the <i>potage</i> we favour,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And soles fried <i>au naturel</i> serve us for fish;</p>
+<p>We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour&mdash;</p>
+  <p class="i1">Beef garnished with mushrooms&mdash;a true English dish.</p>
+
+<p class="s">Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by,</p>
+<p>Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dallies</p>
+  <p class="i1">With a small slice of ham&mdash;then gives in with a sigh.</p>
+
+<p class="s">For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow;</p>
+<p>While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us:</p>
+  <p class="i1">Alas! are we equal to meeting them now?</p>
+
+<p class="s">So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden,</p>
+  <p class="i1">The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear;</p>
+<p>And may we and our consort sail home richly laden</p>
+  <p class="i1">With the spoils of success, ere December next year!</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>In addition to the bill of fare, the annexed poem by
+the same accomplished author was printed and placed
+in front of each member of the mess.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>On this glad Christmas Day,</p>
+  <p class="i1">While happy bells are flinging</p>
+<p>O&rsquo;er bright lands far away</p>
+  <p class="i1">Their burst of joyous singing,</p>
+<p>We love to think that each sweet lay,</p>
+  <p class="i1">That sets those echoes ringing,</p>
+<p>Hushed music from our icy bay</p>
+  <p class="i1">To loving hearts is bringing.
+          <span class="pagenum"><a name="page197" id="page197"></a>197</span></p>
+
+<p class="s">Hushed music that shall tell</p>
+  <p class="i1">How He has left us never,</p>
+<p>In whose dear sight we dwell,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Who aids our high endeavour;</p>
+<p>Who, from the hearts that love us well,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Our short lives will not sever,</p>
+<p>For whose good gifts our breasts shall swell</p>
+  <p class="i1">With grateful praise for ever!</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Our drum and fife band, of their own accord, played
+several airs very creditably during our dinner, which
+was brought to a conclusion by a few short speeches.
+In the evening dancing was again kept up with great
+animation; every one appeared cheerful and happy.
+In no region of the world could this Christmas-day
+have been spent with more mirth and more genuine
+fellowship than it was by the little band of explorers,
+so far removed from all home ties and associations,
+who were celebrating it that day, in a latitude farther
+north than man had ever before penetrated.</p>
+
+<p>On reviewing the events of the year we felt we had
+much to be thankful for. We had succeeded, in spite
+of many dangers and difficulties, in establishing our
+ship in winter quarters in a position farther north
+than even some of the most sanguine had, at one time,
+dared to hope. The English flag had been displayed,
+both by sea and by land, in a higher northern latitude
+than any flag had ever before been seen, and although
+our prospects of further exploration in a northerly
+direction were somewhat damped, owing to the land
+trending west, we knew that there was much to be
+done during the ensuing year in defining and exploring
+the coasts to the east and to the west. A wide field
+of exploration was still before us, and there was much
+useful work to be done during the ensuing spring in a
+hitherto unknown region.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page198" id="page198"></a>198</span></p>
+
+<p>Half our winter had passed, and although the long
+dark night of one hundred and fifty days might, by
+some unacquainted with the many resources we
+possessed to while away the time, be considered dull
+and monotonous, monotony and despondency were
+unknown on board the good ship &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo; We all
+looked forward with eager hope to the return of the
+sun, strong in our determination to do our best, and
+with our appetites for sledging considerably whetted
+by the initiation we had received during the autumn.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto we had, with one exception, enjoyed perfect
+immunity from sickness, and we all thought that if
+there was no cold weather in the Arctic Regions to
+produce frost-bites, the appointments of medical
+officers to the expedition, so far as their professional
+qualifications were concerned, were undoubted sinecures.
+The frost-bites had, however, been very severe,
+and at the end of the year there still remained on the
+sick list four of the poor fellows who had been attacked
+during the autumn sledging, three of whom had
+suffered amputation of the big toe.</p>
+
+<p>Compelled to keep to their beds, the winter to them
+must have, indeed, been wearisome; but no word of
+complaint was ever uttered by them, and they appeared
+as cheerful and in as good spirits as the best of us.
+Their only distress was the idea of not being allowed,
+in consequence of their misfortune, to participate in
+the spring campaign. The sequel, however, proved,
+although they took no part in the <i>extended</i> sledging
+operations, how well and how nobly they worked in
+their brave endeavours to assist and succour their
+poor, weak, and stricken comrades; but we must not
+anticipate.</p>
+
+<p>We had hitherto experienced, in comparison with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page199" id="page199"></a>199</span>
+what we had been led to expect, tolerably mild weather,
+as Arctic winter weather goes; and the cold had not
+been so severe as we anticipated; -46.5° or 78½° below
+freezing-point being, up to the end of the year, the
+minimum temperature registered. This was by no
+means an uncomfortable temperature, although superficial
+frost-bites, especially on the noses and cheekbones,
+were of constant occurrence. Solitary walks
+were, of course, prohibited; and it was particularly
+impressed upon every one that, when they were
+absent from the ship, they were carefully to watch
+their companions&rsquo; faces in order to detect a frost-bite
+at once, and so be able to restore circulation before
+permanent injury could be sustained. Face-covers
+were occasionally worn, but were not in very great
+favour. They have the disadvantage of freezing to
+the face, which they also conceal, and so prevent a
+comrade from seeing and reporting a frost-bite.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of our winter quarters there
+had, up to this time, been a remarkable absence of
+all animal life. Occasionally the quarter-masters
+would report that during the night they heard the
+howling of wolves in the distance, and one night the
+Eskimo dogs, who were lying curled up in the snow
+outside the ship, made a sudden rush for the gangway,
+and evinced great eagerness to get on board. This
+stampede was attributed to the presence of wolves,
+but no tracks of these animals had been seen to justify
+our arriving at such a conclusion. With the exception
+sometimes of a peculiar, whistling, moaning sound,
+caused by the rise and fall of the ice with the tide, the
+stillness of the nights was undisturbed.</p>
+
+<p>We had long been aware that the ice of which this
+part of the polar sea was composed consisted of huge
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page200" id="page200"></a>200</span>
+massive floes, not of a few seasons&rsquo; formation, but
+the creation of ages, real thick-ribbed ice. Except
+along the west coasts of Banks and Prince Patrick
+Islands, no such ice had ever before been met with in
+the Arctic Regions. It therefore became desirable to
+apply to it a special name by which it might be
+provisionally known. After some discussion, Captain
+Nares decided upon calling the frozen sea, on the
+southern border of which we were wintering, the
+&ldquo;Palæocrystic Sea,&rdquo; the name being derived from
+the two Greek words <span class="grk" title="palaios">&#960;&#945;&#955;&#945;&#953;&#959;&#962;</span> ancient, and <span class="grk" title="krystallos">&#954;&#961;&#965;&#963;&#964;&#945;&#955;&#955;&#959;&#962;</span>
+ice. This term was used for the great frozen polar
+sea during the remaining period of our detention on
+its borders.<a name="fa1l" id="fa1l" href="#ft1l"><span class="sp">1</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Atmospheric phenomena, such as halos and
+paraselenæ, were by no means uncommon, and occasionally
+we were astonished by the heavenly bodies
+behaving, as it appeared to us, in a very eccentric
+manner. On one occasion the star Aldebaran was
+reported to be jumping about in a strange way. Such
+unusual behaviour on the part of a star brought us
+all up in the cold, and there, sure enough, was Aldebaran
+doing exactly what was reported, and altogether
+conducting itself in a very erratic and unstarlike
+manner. The illusion was caused by the fall of minute,
+and imperceptible, frozen particles; but it was some
+time before we could satisfy ourselves that the star was
+not actually in motion, many of the men remaining to
+this day unconvinced. One of our Scotch quarter-masters
+informed me, some time afterwards, that it
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page201" id="page201"></a>201</span>
+was a &ldquo;vara curious star;&rdquo; and although the laws of
+refraction were explained to him, he still persisted in
+his belief that the movement of the star was due to
+itself, and would not believe in any other explanation.</p>
+
+<p>At the beginning of the winter, shortly after the
+return of the sledge parties, the doctor and myself
+being busily engaged in the construction of a snow
+house on shore, observed a most brilliant meteor fall,
+apparently about a quarter of a mile from us, its
+course being from S.E. to N.W. It was of a bright
+emerald-green colour, and was falling so quietly and
+slowly that we at first thought it was a rocket, or
+Roman candle, let off by some one astern of the ship,
+it being distinctly visible for many seconds. When it
+arrived, in our estimation, at about forty feet from
+the ground, it suddenly burst, displaying bright red
+and green colours. It was seen by others, from
+different points of observation; all being unanimous
+in their opinion that it was one of the most beautiful
+sights, of the kind, they had ever witnessed.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1l" id="ft1l" href="#fa1l"><span class="fn">1</span></a> The word may not be formed on strictly accurate principles, but
+it is sufficiently expressive of the fact it is intended to represent, and
+it is now endeared to us by association and by common usage while
+serving in the far north.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page202" id="page202"></a>202</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XVII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">A HAPPY NEW YEAR.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>The old year dies on southern skies,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And leafless woods that moan and quiver;</p>
+<p>The shadows creep o&rsquo;er ocean deep,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And silent lake and rustling river;</p>
+<p>And all is gloom around the tomb</p>
+  <p class="i1">Of wasted moments, lost for ever.</p>
+
+<p class="s">The new year gleams on silver streams,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Where meadows smile in sunlit glances;</p>
+<p>The dark shades flee across the sea,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And the wild wavelet laughs and dances;</p>
+<p>And all is bright where new-born light</p>
+  <p class="i1">Brings hope to man and golden chances.</p>
+
+<p class="s">O happy year! that tells us here</p>
+  <p class="i1">The same sweet, ever-welcome story,</p>
+<p>That soon, so soon! one radiant noon</p>
+  <p class="i1">Shall plunge in light yon summits hoary,</p>
+<p>That point our way through endless day</p>
+  <p class="i1">To joyous triumphs, home, and glory.</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">H. W. Pullen,</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="f90">H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="f90">&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;<i>January 1st</i>, 1876.</p>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> above lines, composed by the poet laureate of
+the expedition, greeted us at the breakfast table on
+the morning of the 1st of January, 1876.</p>
+
+<p>The New Year was ushered in with every demonstration
+of joy, gratitude, and hope by our little party
+assembled together, so far removed from the civilized
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page203" id="page203"></a>203</span>
+world. We were joyful because a new year had
+dawned upon us in undiminished numbers; grateful
+for the many mercies that had been vouchsafed to
+us, and hopeful concerning our future prospects.
+We could not look back with regret upon the past
+year, for to us it had indeed been eventful; but
+officers and men looked forward to the coming year
+with feelings of confidence, resolutely determined
+faithfully to perform their duties, placing their trust
+in Him who had hitherto so well watched over and
+protected them, and firm in their reliance on His
+continued aid and support.</p>
+
+<p>It is generally the custom in the navy to strike the
+bell sixteen times at midnight on New Year&rsquo;s eve&mdash;eight
+bells for the old year and eight bells for the
+new! Of course with us this custom was rigidly
+adhered to; but not only did we strike sixteen bells
+at <i>our</i> midnight, but we also struck the same number
+at six minutes to eight, which, allowing for the exact
+difference in time, would be midnight in England, so
+that we had at least the satisfaction of knowing that
+our bell was being employed in the same way as
+many others in the navy at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps it may be interesting to my readers to
+know exactly how we received the New Year! I will,
+therefore, quote my remarks as they appear, word for
+word, in my journal.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;At five minutes to twelve, we all congregated
+round the ward-room table, on which was spread a
+sumptuous cold collation, consisting of a <i>real</i> English
+ham, Bologna sausages, brawn, and sardines. Strong
+whiskey punch, in the brewing of which all had a
+share, was ladled out to each, and from the encomiums
+which were passed on its flavour and strength,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page204" id="page204"></a>204</span>
+the old proverb that &lsquo;too many cooks spoil the broth&rsquo;
+was completely upset. As the bell struck, a neat
+little speech was made by our orator the doctor, the
+compliments of the season were wished to all, nor
+were those at home forgotten, our glasses were
+emptied, and then in true Highland fashion, with one
+foot on the table, the other on our chair, and with
+hands joined, we all sang &lsquo;Auld lang syne,&rsquo; the drum
+and fife band accompanying us outside, the song being
+taken up by the men on the lower deck, who, true to
+their tastes, had been &lsquo;<i>dancing</i> out the old year.&rsquo;
+Such was the manner in which the year 1876 was
+inaugurated in latitude 82° 27&prime; N., where no human
+being had ever welcomed a new year before.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>A more cheerful, happy, and contented party it
+would be difficult to imagine anywhere; utterly
+oblivious of the solemn darkness and desolate sterility
+that prevailed without, they thought only of the
+&ldquo;joyous triumph&rdquo; that they hoped to achieve, and
+then of their return to old England. Everything
+wore a cheerful aspect. No leader could have more
+reason to be satisfied with the health and spirits of
+those under his command, than Captain Nares on the
+1st of January, 1876.</p>
+
+<p>On that morning, at the usual monthly medical
+inspection, he had the satisfaction of receiving the
+report that the men were in a better state of health
+than they were at the last examination. Appetites,
+which during mid-winter had been waning, had
+gradually returned. So contented were we, that
+many were actually pitying our friends in England,
+because they were unable to enjoy such delicious
+musk-ox beef as was put on our table for dinner on
+New Year&rsquo;s day!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page205" id="page205"></a>205</span></p>
+
+<p>Our first crop of mustard and cress was gathered
+on the 2nd of January. It was not an abundant one,
+but there was sufficient to give a mouthful to each
+person, and what little we had was certainly very
+refreshing. It had grown up devoid of all colour, and
+had a very <i>washed-out</i> appearance. The garden was
+a small shallow box kept close to the ward-room stove.
+In consequence of the success attending this&mdash;our first&mdash;attempt
+at agriculture, several gardens were started,
+and we were enabled to issue, at different times, small
+quantities of this excellent antiscorbutic; though how
+far the loss of colour detracts from its medicinal
+qualities is a difficult problem to solve. Although the
+colour was absent, the fresh <i>taste</i> appeared to remain,
+there being no perceptible difference between that
+grown on board the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; and the same reared in
+the heat of the sun in more favoured climes. As a
+rule, the best crops were those grown on a blanket.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th and 9th of January we experienced a
+heavy gale of wind from the southward. It was impossible,
+whilst it lasted, to venture outside the ship,
+even to take the thermometric observations, although
+they could be registered only a few yards from the
+gangway: they had therefore to be discontinued
+during the time the gale lasted. It blew for forty-eight
+hours with relentless fury, when it exhausted
+itself in fitful gusts, more or less strong, until it abated
+altogether. The housing over the ship suffered sadly
+from this storm, several tons weight of snow having
+collected on it from the tremendous drift, in some
+places breaking it through, and in others &ldquo;bagging&rdquo;
+it down so as to render walking underneath an impossibility.</p>
+
+<p>All our outdoor establishments were completely
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page206" id="page206"></a>206</span>
+buried with snow, and we were compelled to send
+parties of men to excavate them, in order to effect an
+entrance at all. In fact, our men were for some time
+engaged in repairing the ravages of the storm. The
+accumulation of drift on the weather side of the ship
+was enormous, and took the form of a perfectly solid
+snow-wreath. This was caused by the eddying wind
+driving the snow from the side of the vessel to a distance
+of about four or five feet, where it settled, resembling
+a great frozen wave, whose curling crest was
+fully seven feet in height.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite, or lee, side of the ship the ice had
+cracked, leaving several large fissures, through which
+the water oozed and flowed over. The spring tides
+had also caused the ship to rise in her icy cradle, the
+greater part of the banking having, in consequence,
+slipped through between the edge of our dock and the
+ship&rsquo;s side and disappeared. This also had to be
+rectified. Our gale of wind had undoubtedly been
+productive of much extra work, irrespective of the
+anxiety and the by no means pleasant time spent,
+during its duration: for as yet our protecting bergs
+had not inspired us with absolute confidence regarding
+the shelter they might afford in such tempestuous
+weather as we had recently experienced. So well,
+however, did they answer our purpose during this
+gale, that all cause for anxiety was from that time
+removed, and for the future we felt as safe and as
+secure as if we had been frozen up in a well-sheltered
+and land-locked harbour.</p>
+
+<p>When the wind was at its height, a piece of musk-ox
+meat, suspended in the mizzen-rigging, was blown
+down, and was, of course, at once assailed by the
+Eskimo dogs who had been admitted into the ship
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page207" id="page207"></a>207</span>
+during the gale. Fortunately it was frozen so hard
+that they were unable to get their teeth through it,
+and although it had been some time in their clutches
+before it was rescued, little loss was sustained.</p>
+
+<p>At noon on the 17th of January, a faint tinge of
+crimson, blended with a slight silvery streak of
+twilight, could be observed in the southern horizon,
+and although it was only of short duration, it became
+more decided and lasted for a longer time on each
+successive day. These bright harbingers of returning
+light were anxiously watched, and gladly were they
+welcomed as they assumed a more decided appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Although there was no despondency or depression
+of spirits on board the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; the monotony of the
+long dark nights could not but be felt, and we all
+eagerly looked forward to the time when the glorious
+rays from our bright, though long-absent, sun should
+again crown the summits of the distant hills with their
+sparkling and joyous light. All on board were interested
+for different reasons in the return of the sun:
+the sledge travellers, because it would bring light and
+heat to cheer and sustain them on their lonesome and
+arduous journeys, which they knew would be commenced
+as soon after its return as possible: the sportsmen
+regarded it as the precursor of game; and all
+hailed with delight the symbol of returning day and
+the assurance of the approaching termination of their
+long dark night. By the 1st of February, those
+gifted with sharp eyesight were just able to decipher
+a leading article in the <i>Times</i> on the floe at noon. It
+was remarked that one of our officers afflicted with
+short-sightedness was able, by the dim twilight, to
+read not only with greater ease and accuracy than
+others, but also some days before them, and therefore
+by a dimmer light.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page208" id="page208"></a>208</span></p>
+
+<p>We had hitherto had no exceptionally severe
+weather; but during the latter part of January we experienced
+a foretaste of the intense cold that we were
+a month later destined to endure. With a temperature
+50° below zero, it is necessary, when exposed to it, to
+keep the body in constant motion, otherwise a frost-bite
+will imperceptibly seize hold of one. On first emerging
+into this temperature a slight difficulty of breathing
+would be experienced, and tears would be involuntarily
+brought to the eyes, which immediately became small
+nodules of ice, and as such had to be extracted. This
+is hardly to be wondered at when it is remembered
+that we had to undergo a transition of temperature
+from our living-deck to the open air of over 100°! In
+spite of this cold, however, we were not much troubled
+with frost-bites, except on the face. Our dearly bought
+experience, during the autumn sledging, will account
+for our comparative immunity from these very troublesome
+and painful attacks.</p>
+
+<p>Apropos of frost-bites it is related, that one of the
+members of the expedition, on getting up in the
+morning, during the cold weather, found, to his
+horror, that one of his toes and a part of his foot
+were quite black. Thinking he was severely frost-bitten,
+and wishing at once to assure himself of the
+fact by the only practical method that suggested
+itself at the time, he seized a pin, and made a furious
+dig at the supposed injured part. He very quickly
+found that, although discoloured, it was not totally
+devoid of all sensation, nor was the circulation of
+blood in any way impeded. The fact was, that his
+servant, on the previous day, had patched up his
+sock with a piece of fearnought, and, in order to
+assimilate the colour, had inked it over&mdash;which fully
+accounted for his terrible frost-bite!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page209" id="page209"></a>209</span></p>
+
+<p>It was our invariable custom to keep the hair, especially
+that growing on the face, as close as possible.
+In spite, however, of this precaution, it was impossible
+to prevent the breath from freezing on the
+short stubbly beard and moustache, which would soon
+be converted into a perfect mass of ice&mdash;a decidedly
+uncomfortable appendage. On returning from our
+short walks, we frequently found our cap, comforter,
+and collar of the coat frozen into one solid and compact
+mass.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally an amusing incident occurred to vary
+the sameness of our daily life, as the following story
+will show. During the darkest part of the winter one
+of the magnetic observers had occasion to visit the
+observatory. Taking his lantern, and accompanied
+by Nellie, he reached the door, which to his surprise
+was open. Supposing it to have been blown open by
+the wind, for it had been blowing very hard the
+previous night, he entered the long tunnel leading
+up to the Unifilar House. Before he had gone far
+a strong animal smell assailed his olfactory organs;
+this, with the fact of Nellie exhibiting great restlessness,
+induced him to examine the ground, when he
+clearly detected the traces of some animal, but of
+what description he was unable to decide.</p>
+
+<p>He was now placed in rather an unpleasant position,
+for to advance head-foremost through a narrow
+passage into a small house in which a great Polar
+bear might have established himself, was to say the
+least a rash act; yet he was unwilling to return on
+board, and probably be for ever after chaffed by his
+messmates for being frightened at nothing. Putting
+on a bold front, he determined at all hazards to push
+on, and ascertain what the animal was that had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page210" id="page210"></a>210</span>
+dared to violate the sacred precincts of the observatory.
+As he advanced the peculiar odour became
+stronger, and he was sorely tempted to retreat,
+thinking discretion was the better part of valour.
+Arriving at the entrance to the house, however, he
+plucked up courage, and with the lantern well in
+front of him, and Nellie close at his heels, he dashed
+in, and there, lying down and looking almost as
+frightened as himself, was, not the great white bear
+that he expected to meet, but &ldquo;Bruin,&rdquo; the largest
+of our Eskimo dogs, who, during the boisterous
+weather of the preceding night, had sought shelter
+in our observatory, and had no doubt found it a very
+snug and comfortable place, infinitely preferable to
+the bleak and exposed floe. It was a long time before
+the place was rid of the unpleasant smell peculiar to
+Eskimo dogs.</p>
+
+<p>As the light increased day by day, the men were
+employed in re-embarking the stores and provisions
+landed, and in demolishing &ldquo;Markham Hall.&rdquo; It
+was necessary to accomplish as much as possible, as
+Captain Nares well knew, before the departure of the
+sledging parties, for so few men would be left on
+board that little could be done during their absence,
+and there was no saying how soon after their return
+the ship would be able to break out of winter
+quarters. The Eskimo dogs were also now regularly
+fed and attended to. Hitherto they had been left to
+do pretty much as they liked, and their regular meals
+during the winter had been few, and served at uncertain
+times. Notwithstanding the small amount of
+food that was issued to them, they were all in capital
+condition, in fact a little too &ldquo;fleshy&rdquo; for dragging
+purposes, as they always received the scraps and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page211" id="page211"></a>211</span>
+surplus food from the allowance of the ship&rsquo;s company,
+and this was more than enough to keep a much
+larger pack of dogs than we possessed. They were
+also regularly exercised in dragging a light sledge,
+their day&rsquo;s work increasing as the days lengthened.</p>
+
+<p>We could not but notice the sallowness of complexion
+which the returning light revealed, only too
+palpably, in the faces of our companions, caused by
+the long absence of the sun, and which had hitherto
+been unnoticed by the light of lamps and candles.
+Like our mustard and cress, we were devoid of all
+colour, yet apparently in good and sound health.
+There is something essentially health-preserving and
+life-giving in the rays of the sun, without which
+everything must wither and eventually die. This
+was, in the sequel, but too fully exemplified in our
+case. For although we were all in excellent spirits
+and supposed ourselves to be in perfect health, yet
+the seeds of that terrible disease, which subsequently
+crippled us so disastrously, must have already germinated
+unknown to ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>But little did we suspect, at that time, the approach
+of the evil that eventually overtook us.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the large floe-bergs near the ship were observed
+to be literally rent in twain, owing in all probability
+to the contraction of the ice by the intense
+cold&mdash;the outer part of the floeberg being exposed to
+a greater cold than the interior. These rents will
+also account for the loud sharp reports that were
+frequently heard during the winter, and which were
+for some time wrapped in mystery.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the end of February a few hares were
+seen, and two or three were shot; but they were very
+timid and shy, and seldom gave our sportsmen opportunities
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page212" id="page212"></a>212</span>
+of exhibiting their prowess. Lemming tracks
+were abundant, and occasionally these little animals
+would be seen running along the snow. Nellie regarded
+them as being created for her especial enjoyment
+in hunting, and would vainly endeavour to unsnow
+them after they had taken refuge in their holes.
+Woe betide the unfortunate little lemming observed
+by Nellie at any distance from its habitation. A
+dash, a gobble, and all was over! In vain did we
+try to break her of these murderous propensities, not
+only for the sake of the victims but also for herself, as
+the swallowing of little balls of fur cannot be conducive
+to health. All was futile! Nellie considered
+the chase of these little creatures as an undoubted
+privilege with which no one should interfere.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:784px; height:380px" src="images/img238.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">LEMMINGS.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The long twilight enabled us to extend our rambles,
+and we visited the snow hut built by Rawson last
+autumn when attempting to get south, about five or
+six miles from the ship, and in which he had deposited
+a small quantity of provisions. To our surprise we
+discovered that, with the exception of the pemmican
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page213" id="page213"></a>213</span>
+which was in a tin, and the tobacco, all had disappeared!
+Biscuit, bacon, tea, sugar, and cocoa, all
+had gone. A hole through the roof of the house
+pointed at once to the means of ingress; but who
+were the thieves? Foxes or wolves had not been
+seen, nor had any traces of them been observed!</p>
+
+<p>Even supposing these animals to be the depredators,
+how did they effect their escape from the house after
+once they had got in? It was simple enough to scrape
+a hole through the roof and jump down; but it was
+not so easy to jump straight up a height of six or
+seven feet through a small hole! Suspicion fell for
+some time on our long-missing dog Sallie; but it was
+never satisfactorily ascertained whether dog, wolf, or
+fox was the culprit. Of one thing there could be no
+doubt. The robbery had been committed by a very
+cunning and intelligent beast. Spots of blood on the
+pemmican tin showed unmistakeably that this also
+had been attempted, but had proved too hard and
+strong. The tracks, which were always to and from
+the floe, were too indistinct to enable us to make out
+the nature of the animal, but the general idea was
+that it was a fox.</p>
+
+<p>Of course, with returning daylight, the serious work
+of sledging and the preparations for the spring campaign
+occupied our attention to the exclusion of almost
+everything else. On Saturday, the 26th of February,
+our school assembled for the last time, the classes
+being dismissed in the evening only to reassemble
+again if the ship spent another winter away from
+England. It would not be fair to dismiss our pupils
+without a word of commendation. Their attendance
+was most regular, and their efforts to learn beyond
+all praise. Nothing could exceed their diligence, nor
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page214" id="page214"></a>214</span>
+excel their desire to please and reflect credit upon
+their masters, and I do hope that many will have
+benefited by the instruction they received in their
+Arctic school.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, the 24th of February, was performed
+our last dramatic entertainment. The following was
+the programme.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<p class="center">ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.</p>
+
+<p class="center">H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="center">Thursday, 24th February, 1876.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><img style="width:36px; height:21px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/imgh.jpg" alt="" /> Last performance of the season.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="sc">Grand Representation</span></p>
+
+<p class="center">of the<br />
+Original pathetico-comico-burlesque operetta entitled the</p>
+
+<p class="center">LITTLE VULGAR BOY,</p>
+
+<p class="center">or</p>
+
+<p class="center">WEEPING BILL.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Founded on the celebrated Ingoldsby Legend, &ldquo;Misadventures at<br />
+Margate.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="center">Written expressly for the occasion by the<br />
+Rev. H. W. <span class="sc">Pullen</span>.<br />
+Scenery by Professor Moss, M.D. Music by Lieut. Aldrich.<br />
+Manager: Lieut. May.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Preceded by</p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">Reading</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;The Blessed Babies&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcl">Mr. Hunt.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Song</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Fie, for shame&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcl">Mr. Symons.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center pt2"><span class="sc">Characters:</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="width: 90%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>Mr. Brown, an old buffer, slightly green</p></td> <td class="tcl" style="width: 30%;">Commander Markham.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>Mrs. Jones, a landlady, slightly cross, but with a keen
+eye to business</p></td> <td class="tcl">G. Le C. Egerton, Esq.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>Jack Robinson; a seafaring man, slightly figurative
+in his language, and violently in love with Mrs.
+Jones</p></td> <td class="tcl">Lieut. Giffard.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>Weeping Bill, a little vulgar boy, slightly out at
+elbows, and fairly sharp for his age</p></td> <td class="tcl">Lieut. Rawson.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page215" id="page215"></a>215</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl"><p>K 55, the irrepressible Bobby, slightly self-important,
+and the natural enemy of Weeping Bill</p></td> <td class="tcl">Rev. H. W. Pullen.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl">Scenes 1 and 3</td> <td class="tcl">The Jetty at Margate.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Scenes 2 and 4</td> <td class="tcl">Mrs. Jones&rsquo;s lodgings.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">To commence at 7.30 precisely.<br />
+God save the Queen.<br />
+Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This piece, as set forth in the bill, was written expressly
+for the occasion by Pullen, and not only did
+he compose it, but he also assisted in its performance.
+It was a very successful hit, and was most deservedly
+applauded, loud cries of &ldquo;Author&rdquo; following the fall
+of the curtain.</p>
+
+<p>The ensuing Thursday witnessed the last of our
+&ldquo;Thursday Pops,&rdquo; and this terminated our season&rsquo;s
+festivities. At it Captain Nares delivered a very able
+and instructive lecture on his sledging experiences,
+bringing a few &ldquo;facts&rdquo; home to the men, as to the
+sort of work they were about to perform, and the kind
+of life they would have to lead. His announcement
+that we should, in all probability, spend another
+winter in the Arctic Regions was hailed with delight.
+He also announced his intention of returning to
+England before the third winter, provided no unforeseen
+event happened to detain the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The following was the programme for the evening&rsquo;s
+entertainment.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2">
+<p class="center">THURSDAY POPS.</p>
+
+<p class="center">H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><img style="width:36px; height:21px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/imgh.jpg" alt="" /> <i>Positively the last entertainment this winter.</i></p>
+
+<p class="center">March 2, 1876.</p>
+
+<p class="center">The season&rsquo;s festivities will terminate with the following<br />
+programme:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="ws" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl" colspan="2">&ensp;1. The Palæocrystic Sea and Sledging Experiences</td> <td class="tcr">Capt. Nares.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;2. Ballad</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;The <i>Shannon</i> and the <i>Chesapeake</i>&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. Cane.
+  <span class="pagenum"><a name="page216" id="page216"></a>216</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;3. Song</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Susan&rsquo;s Sunday out&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. Stuckberry.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;4. Reading</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Two Bab Ballads&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Rev. H. W. Pullen.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;5. Ballad</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Over the Sea&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. Maskell.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;6. Song</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Rummy old Codger&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. Pearce.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;7. Ballad</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Seeing Nelly home&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. Self.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;8. Recitation</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;On the Arctic Expedition, by J. D.&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Sergt. Wood.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">&ensp;9. Song</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Billy Woods the grocer&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. Gore.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">10. Ballad</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;Beating of my own heart&rdquo;</td> <td class="tcr">Mr. Ayles.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">11. Part Song</td> <td class="tcl">&ldquo;O who will o&rsquo;er the downs so free&rdquo;</td>
+<td class="tcr">Messrs. Aldrich, Pullen, May, and Wootton.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">To conclude with the grand Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus, by the<br />
+entire strength of the house.</p>
+
+<p class="center">To commence at 7.30 precisely.</p>
+
+<p class="center">God save the Queen.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This chapter would be incomplete without the
+words of the &ldquo;Grand Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>This was also composed by our talented poet
+laureate, and was most enthusiastically received by
+the whole ship&rsquo;s company, who vociferously joined in
+singing it on all appropriate, and other, occasions.</p>
+
+<p>It brought in the names of all the sledges that were
+employed in the early part of the spring campaign,
+and became henceforth, as it were, the &ldquo;Arctic
+National Anthem.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="pt2 center f90"><span class="sc">Chorus.</span></p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>Not very long ago,</p>
+<p>On the six-foot floe</p>
+  <p class="i1">Of the palæocrystic sea,</p>
+<p>Two ships did ride,</p>
+<p>Mid the crashing of the tide&mdash;</p>
+  <p class="i1">The <i>Alert</i> and the <i>Discovery</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="s">The sun never shone</p>
+<p>The gallant crews upon</p>
+  <p class="i1">For a hundred and forty-two days;</p>
+<p>But no darkness and no hummocks</p>
+<p>Their merry hearts could flummox:</p>
+<p>So they set to work and acted plays.
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page217" id="page217"></a>217</span></p>
+
+<p class="s">There was music and song</p>
+<p>To help the hours along,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Brought forth from the good ship&rsquo;s store;</p>
+<p>And each man did his best</p>
+<p>To amuse and cheer the rest:</p>
+  <p class="i1">And &ldquo;nobody can&rsquo;t do more.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="pt2 center f90"><span class="sc">Air</span>&mdash;&ldquo;The <i>Shannon</i> and the <i>Chesapeake</i>.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>Here&rsquo;s a health to <i>Marco Polo</i><a name="fa1m" id="fa1m" href="#ft1m"><span class="sp">1</span></a>&mdash;</p>
+<p>May he reach his northern goal, oh!</p>
+  <p class="i1">And advance the flag of England into realms unknown!</p>
+<p>May the <i>Challenger</i><a name="fa2m" id="fa2m" href="#ft2m"><span class="sp">2</span></a> be there,</p>
+<p>All comers bold to dare,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And <i>Victoria</i><a name="fa3m" id="fa3m" href="#ft3m"><span class="sp">3</span></a> be victorious in the frozen zone!</p>
+
+<p class="s">May our <i>Poppie</i><a name="fa4m" id="fa4m" href="#ft4m"><span class="sp">4</span></a> be in sight,</p>
+<p>With her colours streaming bright,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And the <i>Bulldog</i><a name="fa5m" id="fa5m" href="#ft5m"><span class="sp">5</span></a> tug on merrily from strand to strand!</p>
+<p>And the <i>Alexandra</i><a name="fa6m" id="fa6m" href="#ft6m"><span class="sp">6</span></a> brave</p>
+<p>See our banner proudly wave</p>
+  <p class="i1">O&rsquo;er the highest cliffs and summits of the northernmost land!</p>
+
+<p class="s">Here&rsquo;s a health to <i>Hercules</i>,<a name="fa7m" id="fa7m" href="#ft7m"><span class="sp">7</span></a></p>
+<p>Whom the autumn blast did freeze,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And all our gallant fellows whom the frost laid low!</p>
+<p>Just wait a little longer,</p>
+<p>Till they get a trifle stronger,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And they&rsquo;ll never pull the worse because they&rsquo;ve lost a toe.</p>
+
+<p class="s">Here&rsquo;s a health, with three times three,</p>
+<p>To the brave <i>Discovery</i>,<a name="fa8m" id="fa8m" href="#ft8m"><span class="sp">8</span></a></p>
+  <p class="i1">And our merry, merry guests, so truly welcome here!</p>
+<p>And a brimming bumper yet</p>
+<p>To our valiant little pet&mdash;</p>
+  <p class="i1">The lively <i>Clements Markham</i>,<a name="fa9m" id="fa9m" href="#ft9m"><span class="sp">9</span></a> with its bold charioteer!
+      <span class="pagenum"><a name="page218" id="page218"></a>218</span></p>
+
+<p class="s">Here&rsquo;s a health to all true blue,</p>
+<p>To the officers and crew</p>
+  <p class="i1">Who man this Expedition neat and handy, oh!</p>
+<p>And may they ever prove,</p>
+<p>Both in sledging and in love,</p>
+  <p class="i1">That the tars of old Britannia are the dandy, oh!</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1m" id="ft1m" href="#fa1m"><span class="fn">1</span></a> Commander Markham&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2m" id="ft2m" href="#fa2m"><span class="fn">2</span></a> Lieut. Aldrich&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft3m" id="ft3m" href="#fa3m"><span class="fn">3</span></a> Lieut. Parr&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft4m" id="ft4m" href="#fa4m"><span class="fn">4</span></a> Lieut. Giffard&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft5m" id="ft5m" href="#fa5m"><span class="fn">5</span></a> Dr. Moss&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft6m" id="ft6m" href="#fa6m"><span class="fn">6</span></a> Mr. White&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft7m" id="ft7m" href="#fa7m"><span class="fn">7</span></a> Lieut. May&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft8m" id="ft8m" href="#fa8m"><span class="fn">8</span></a> Lieut. Rawson&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft9m" id="ft9m" href="#fa9m"><span class="fn">9</span></a> Mr. Egerton&rsquo;s sledge.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page219" id="page219"></a>219</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XVIII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">RETURN OF THE SUN.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Most glorious orb! that were a worship, ere</p>
+<p class="i05">The mystery of thy making was revealed!</p>
+<p class="i05">Thou earliest minister of the Almighty</p>
+<p class="i05">Which gladdened on their mountain tops the hearts</p>
+<p class="i05">Of the Chaldean shepherds, till they poured</p>
+<p class="i05">Themselves in orisons.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Byron.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> 29th of February was the day on which,
+according to astronomical rules, the reappearance of
+the sun was to rejoice the hearts and gladden the
+eyes of our little party. On the previous day, a
+general holiday had been proclaimed to give the men
+a chance, by ascending some of the hills in our
+neighbourhood, of welcoming the sun a day earlier.
+In this, however, they were doomed to disappointment.
+The glorious orb would not come out to be
+welcomed; for the simple reason that it was still
+just below the horizon. We were, however, rewarded
+by seeing its rays reflected in the northern sky, which
+was beautifully illumined with the most brilliant
+prismatic colours. Cairn Hill, and the hills to the
+southward by Cape Rawson, were the chief points of
+observation. The former was abreast of the ship,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page220" id="page220"></a>220</span>
+and about a mile distant; its height being about
+four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea.
+On the summit was built a large cairn, hence its
+name. On the cairn was reared a long staff, to which
+was hoisted an iron oil cask, so as to form a
+conspicuous landmark to guide wanderers back to
+their ship.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:785px; height:726px" src="images/img246.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">CAIRN HILL.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>By ten o&rsquo;clock on the forenoon of the 29th, the
+ship was nearly deserted, and officers and men could
+be seen dotting the floe and snow-covered ranges as
+they wended their way to the most prominent adjacent
+hills, on which little knots of men could already be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page221" id="page221"></a>221</span>
+seen assembled, in order to catch a glimpse of the
+rising sun. We feared, however, on starting, that we
+should be again disappointed, as there was no clear
+sea horizon to the southward, and the sun would
+hardly have sufficient altitude to show itself above
+the distant land. These fears were not without foundation,
+as the result proved.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly before noon our excitement was intense as
+a bright ray shot up vertically from the sun&rsquo;s position
+and illumined the summits of the surrounding ranges,
+whilst a radiant light was shed around.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;As rays around the source of light</p>
+<p class="i05">Stream upward ere he glow in sight,</p>
+<p class="i05">And watching by his future flight</p>
+<p class="i05">Set the clear heavens on fire.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Our hopes grew high as noon drew near, but again
+were we disappointed, and again were we compelled
+to return to the ship, defeated in our object of
+welcoming back the &ldquo;Prodigal Sun!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The next day was cloudy, but on the following one,
+by going aloft about ten o&rsquo;clock, we had the satisfaction
+of announcing that about one-third of the sun&rsquo;s
+disc was visible, as it crept slowly along the southern
+horizon. Instantly the rigging swarmed with men,
+scrambling up with elephantine agility to greet the
+fiery orb after its long absence, and looking more
+like animated bales of furs than human beings. It
+appeared of a deep reddish orange colour, but was so
+distorted by refraction that its shape was more that of
+a truncated cone than a spherical body.</p>
+
+<p>By noon Cairn Hill was covered with expectant
+visitors, and well were they repaid for the trouble of
+the ascent. Although little of the sun could be seen
+above the distant land, we knew that it was there,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page222" id="page222"></a>222</span>
+and what we did see was bright, and <i>appeared</i> with a
+slight stretch of the imagination to be warm!</p>
+
+<p>Romeo&rsquo;s words&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Night&rsquo;s candles are burnt out,</p>
+<p class="i05">And jocund day stands</p>
+<p class="i05">Tip-toe on the misty mountain tops,&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind">were on our lips as we beheld the beautiful colours in
+the northern sky. The roseate tints blending with the
+violet seemed to belong more to southern climes than
+to the sterile inclement regions that we were inhabiting.
+The summits of the hills, the &ldquo;misty mountain tops,&rdquo;
+were bathed in its glorious rays, whilst its luminous
+beams danced and glimmered along the distant ice-floes.
+It was a bright and glorious sight, and we remained
+long admiring it, and revelling in its rays&mdash;in
+fact, until warned by a peculiar sensation in our feet
+that the temperature was actually 100° below freezing-point;
+and however ecstatic we might feel at the reappearance
+of the sun, Jack Frost still reigned
+supreme, exacting implicit obedience to his will, and
+making those who disregarded his injunctions suffer
+for their heedlessness.</p>
+
+<p>Undoubtedly the Arctic Regions, and the farther
+north the better, would be a good place for Parsees;
+for none of the followers of Zoroaster could have exhibited
+more anxiety for the return, and more delight
+at the appearance, of their deity, than we did before
+and after the bright rays of the sun first fell upon us!
+Their god Fire would also receive, during the long cold
+Polar winter, the utmost homage and attention. Sun
+and Fire worshippers would require in these regions
+little to stimulate them to devotion.</p>
+
+<p>Strange to say, our extreme cold came with the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page223" id="page223"></a>223</span>
+returning sun. During the latter end of February
+the temperature had been gradually getting lower and
+lower, until on the 4th of March it had fallen to -74°,
+or 106° below freezing-point. This was the lowest
+recorded by the expedition, obtained from the mean
+of several thermometers, and, so far as we could
+ascertain, the lowest really authentic corrected observation
+that has ever been registered in any part
+of the globe. From noon of the 3rd until noon of
+the 4th the mean temperature was -69°.68, whilst
+the lowest mean temperature registered for any twenty-four
+consecutive hours was from four <span class="scs">A.M.</span> of the former
+until four <span class="scs">A.M.</span> of the last-mentioned day -70°.31.
+From six <span class="scs">P.M.</span> on March 2nd until six <span class="scs">A.M.</span> of March
+4th, namely thirty-six consecutive hours, the mean
+temperature was as low as -69°.93&prime;, and for the week
+ending March 4th the mean temperature was -60°!</p>
+
+<p>It was amusing to observe the eager excitement with
+which every one received the latest intelligence regarding
+the state of the thermometer, and when it was
+announced that the &ldquo;lowest on record&rdquo; had been
+registered, there was a general shout of exultation.
+During the intense cold several experiments were tried
+by exposing various substances to its influence, and
+with the following results. Glycerine, on which a
+temperature of -50° had little effect, became, at -70°,
+perfectly solid and quite transparent. Rectified
+spirits of wine became of the consistency of hair-oil.
+Concentrated rum, 40° over-proof, froze hard
+when exposed in a shallow vessel like a saucer, but
+when in a large quantity it resembled honey or
+molasses in consistency. Whiskey froze hard, and
+we actually broke off bits and ate it! In consequence
+of this latter proceeding we have since our return to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page224" id="page224"></a>224</span>
+England been, not without reason, accused of &ldquo;hard
+drinking,&rdquo; an accusation we are, of course, unable to
+refute! Chloroform was the only substance on which
+the low temperature had no apparent effect. Our
+temperatures were obtained by taking the mean of
+ten thermometers that were exposed, to which result
+was applied the corrections from Kew for each instrument.
+These had been ascertained when the
+instruments were tested at the Kew observatory before
+leaving England. The corrections and errors of the
+instruments could, of course, only be approximately
+ascertained after the freezing-point of mercury had
+been passed, as there was nothing beyond that with
+which the spirit could be compared. The slightest
+impurity of the spirit used, or the presence of even
+the most minute portions of extraneous matter in it,
+would no doubt seriously affect the accuracy of the
+observation. As an instance of the range exhibited
+by these instruments, it may be interesting to know
+that one thermometer indicated as low a temperature
+as -82°, while, <i>at the same time</i>, another showed only
+-60°; but by applying the errors deduced at Kew, the
+result was as nearly as possible the same. I think
+that the minimum temperature recorded by us was, if
+not absolutely correct, as nearly so as it was possible
+to arrive at.</p>
+
+<p>Although we never again experienced such a severe
+burst of cold as we did during the first few days of
+March, the temperature remained extraordinarily low,
+and mercury was in a frozen state during nearly the
+whole of that month. The presence of the sun appeared
+to have little effect on the temperature, but
+thermometers exposed to its rays would frequently rise
+as high as zero, and sometimes above that point.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page225" id="page225"></a>225</span></p>
+
+<p>The difference of temperature at the summit and
+at the base of Cairn Hill, whose height, as has been
+stated, was four hundred and fifty feet, was 5½°, the
+thermometer rising as the hill was ascended, and
+falling again as it was brought down.</p>
+
+<p>Traces of ptarmigan had frequently been observed
+in the snow, but it was not until the 22nd of March
+that the first bird was seen, although our sportsmen
+had been most diligent in their search for them. On
+that day two of our pedestrians succeeding in flushing
+one solitary ptarmigan, but, as is usual in such cases,
+they were without guns. Very few of these birds were
+afterwards seen in the neighbourhood of the &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo;
+Their appearance caused some little excitement, for
+we looked upon them as the harbingers of spring,
+and as a token that our long winter had well-nigh
+terminated.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th of March, there was a partial eclipse
+of the sun, which was clearly visible to all those who
+took the trouble to go on deck and, with a piece of
+smoked or coloured glass, examine it in spite of a very
+low temperature. The first contact was observed at
+six minutes past four in the afternoon, and the egress
+at six o&rsquo;clock. About .65, or little more than half the
+sun, was obscured.</p>
+
+<p>During the middle of March the quarter-deck
+housing was removed, and we were again able to
+enjoy daylight on the upper deck. Although the low
+temperature did not yet admit of our removing the
+snow from the hatchways and skylights, yet we were
+able to clear the tops of our cabin illuminators, and
+thus obtain below a slight amount of daylight, sufficient
+at any rate to obviate the necessity of incessant
+candle-light during the day. It was not until the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page226" id="page226"></a>226</span>
+middle of May, whilst the sledge travellers were
+absent, that the skylights were cleared and the snow
+removed from the upper deck.</p>
+
+<p>Fire is the most disastrous accident that can possibly
+happen to a ship wintering in the Arctic Regions,
+and it should be most carefully guarded against. It
+may result in having your house, together with all
+your provisions, consumed, and yourselves, perhaps
+not burnt, but destined for even a more terrible fate,
+namely, turned out on the ice without food and without
+shelter, exposed to a pitiless temperature, with no
+covering or protection of any description. Such a
+situation would prove fatal in a few hours. Men so
+placed would realize the dreadful fate so vividly and
+graphically described by Jules Verne as having befallen
+Captain Hatteras and his companions when their ship
+was destroyed and they were deserted by their shipmates.</p>
+
+<p>In the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; we had one alarm from fire, which,
+although it might have ended disastrously, did very
+little injury. It originated in our &ldquo;drying-room,&rdquo;
+where, through the carelessness of the man in charge,
+some of the clothes had been allowed to hang in
+dangerous proximity to the stove. These igniting
+quickly communicated the fire to the surrounding
+objects, and for a little time it was doubtful whether
+the conflagration might not assume a very serious
+aspect. In spite of the occurrence happening at night-time,
+the men exerted themselves with such good will
+that the fire was speedily extinguished, with no further
+damage done than the destruction of a few clothes,
+although it was some time before we could rid ourselves
+of the smoke, which unpleasantly permeated
+the whole ship. The temperature at the time was 58°
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page227" id="page227"></a>227</span>
+below zero, which would have rendered the work of
+supplying water from the fire-hole not only a difficult,
+but also a dangerous task, and one which must have
+resulted in many severe frost-bites.</p>
+
+<p>During the latter part of the month of March the
+officers were employed in dismounting the various
+instruments in the observatories, carefully packing
+and putting them away, as most of them would not
+be required again until the following winter. This
+was a very necessary proceeding, as before the return
+of the officers from sledge travelling the observatories
+with all their &ldquo;fixings,&rdquo; such as pedestals, etc., being
+composed of snow, would have melted away during
+the summer thaw. By the end of the month the
+observatories were entirely stripped and left bare,
+when they gradually fell into decay. &ldquo;Woolwich&rdquo;
+was also &ldquo;unsnowed,&rdquo; and the powder brought off to
+the ship and stowed in the magazine.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to all this work, the crews of the
+different sledges destined to take part in the spring
+campaign were, in this month of March, specially
+exercised, under their respective officers, for several
+hours during the day. Their regular daily exercise
+had also been carefully attended to throughout the
+winter.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally they were employed laying out
+depôts of provisions to the southward, to be used by
+the sledge parties proceeding northwards from the
+&ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; or sometimes dragging their laden
+sledges over the pack in the immediate vicinity of
+the ship, with the object of gaining experience in
+crossing ridges of hummocks, and of realizing the
+kind of travelling with which they were so soon to
+become more intimately acquainted. These little
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page228" id="page228"></a>228</span>
+journeys gave us an insight into the endless difficulties
+that we were hereafter called upon to contend
+with, and the obstacles we were destined to surmount.
+We foresaw that we should have &ldquo;stiffish&rdquo;
+work before us, but we did not doubt that we should
+render a good and satisfactory account of the duty
+entrusted to us.</p>
+
+<p>After several cries of &ldquo;wolf,&rdquo; one actually did
+make its appearance on the 1st of April. Early in
+the morning of that day an animal had been observed,
+by the quarter-master of the watch, stealthily prowling
+round the ship. Supposing it to be a bear, the
+alarm was given and one or two of our hunters
+went in chase. More would undoubtedly have followed
+their example, but recollecting the day, they
+preferred remaining in their warm beds for an hour
+longer to the risk of being informed, when they came
+on deck fully equipped for the chase, that it was the
+1st of April!</p>
+
+<p>The traces left in the snow showed unmistakeably
+the character of our visitor. Instead of being a
+bear, it proved to be a wolf, but so alarmed was it
+at the disturbance made on board that it scampered
+over the hills and eluded our pursuit. That same
+afternoon, however, accompanied by my usual companion
+Nellie, I took a long walk to the southward,
+following the trail of the wolf for some distance.
+On my return, and when about two miles and a half
+from the ship, I happened to look round, and there,
+about a hundred yards off, and following in my track,
+was a tall, gaunt, raw-boned and famished-looking
+wolf. He was of a yellowish colour, and in size
+larger than our biggest Eskimo dog. Of course, as
+is generally the way in cases of this sort, I was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page229" id="page229"></a>229</span>
+totally unprovided with arms of any description, and
+was therefore unable to add his skin to our natural
+history collection. I cannot say whether Nellie or
+her master offered the greatest attraction to this
+animal; but whichever it might be, he followed us,
+sometimes at not more than ten yards distance,
+stopping if we stopped, and advancing when we
+advanced, until we were within about half a mile
+from the ship, when some of my messmates coming
+out to meet me, he bolted over the hills and made
+his escape. My great anxiety at the time was for
+my poor old Nellie, who showed a great inclination
+to become better acquainted with the wolf, and I had
+the utmost difficulty in restraining her. Whenever
+she strayed a little from my heel, the brute would
+make a bolt at her, and I have little doubt that she
+would have been killed if he had once succeeded in
+his endeavours. On the same evening we discovered
+the tracks of four musk-oxen, but although we
+followed them up for many miles we did not succeed
+in seeing them. The fact of the latter being in our
+neighbourhood fully accounted for the presence of
+the wolf, who was no doubt following their tracks.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page230" id="page230"></a>230</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XIX.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Give me some ink and paper in my tent,</p>
+<p class="i05">I&rsquo;ll draw the form and model of our battle:</p>
+<p class="i05">Limit each leader to his several charge,</p>
+<p class="i05">And put in just proportions our small force.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><i>Richard III.</i></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:741px; height:487px" src="images/img257.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">SLEDGE UNDER SAIL.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Hitherto</span> I have purposely abstained from alluding
+to our spring operations, as I thought that it would
+be better to devote a separate chapter exclusively to
+the account of the details of sledge equipment. But
+it must not be supposed, because I have omitted to
+say anything about the sledging during the winter,
+that it was neglected, and that our time was entirely
+occupied with our amusements and observatory duties.
+Such was not the case. The preparations for the
+spring campaign and the organization of our sledge
+parties in all its details were very carefully thought
+over and matured during the long dark hours of the
+winter. All works on this subject had been diligently
+read, in order that we might benefit by the experience
+of our predecessors. Nothing was neglected that
+could in any way conduce to the success of the enterprise,
+and everything that could possibly add to the
+health and comfort of those to be employed on work
+of such an arduous nature was carefully considered.
+The sledges, tents, and other equipments necessary
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page231" id="page231"></a>231</span>
+for travelling had been constructed under the personal
+superintendence of Sir Leopold McClintock, who is
+the highest living authority on Arctic sledge travelling.
+A few alterations, which we trusted would also be
+improvements, were suggested by the experience
+gained during the autumn, and these were all carried
+out before the return of the sun. The results justified
+our anticipations. Out of the four different kinds
+of sledges supplied to the expedition those which
+found most favour with us, and with which the
+greatest part of the work was done, were the eight-men
+sledges.<a name="fa1n" id="fa1n" href="#ft1n"><span class="sp">1</span></a> These dragged easier, and were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page232" id="page232"></a>232</span>
+stronger than either the smaller or larger description
+of sledges. So long as the travelling remains good,
+that is smooth and level ice with hard snow on its
+surface, these sledges may be loaded to 240 lbs. for
+each man to drag, and a good day&rsquo;s work to be
+accomplished. This weight, of course, would only
+be dragged on first leaving the ship, or a depôt, and
+decreases at the rate of about 3 lbs. per man per
+diem, the amount of provisions consumed by each
+individual. What are called the &ldquo;constant&rdquo; weights,
+which include the sledge, tent, robes, cooking apparatus,
+pickaxe, shovel, etc., remain unaltered during
+the journey. The question of weight is one requiring
+the closest attention.</p>
+
+<p>Every trifling article, even to a small packet of a
+<i>dozen pins</i> placed in the medicine chest, has to be
+weighed and recorded in the general equipment. The
+following table shows the weight of the various articles
+(being constant weights) required for the equipment
+of an Arctic sledge for forty-five days:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page233" id="page233"></a>233</span></p>
+
+<p class="pt2 center"><span class="sc">Equipment of an Eight-men Sledge, provisioned for an absence
+of Forty-five Days.</span></p>
+
+<table class="ws f90" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl bb">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tcr bb">lb. oz.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Sledge (complete)</td> <td class="tcr">130&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Tent (complete)</td> <td class="tcr">44&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Tent poles, five in number</td> <td class="tcr">25&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Coverlet</td> <td class="tcr">31&emsp;8</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Extra coverlet (used only in cold weather)</td> <td class="tcr">20&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Lower robe</td> <td class="tcr">23&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Waterproof floor-cloth</td> <td class="tcr">15&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Sail</td> <td class="tcr">9&emsp;4</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Eight sleeping bags</td> <td class="tcr">64&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Eight knapsacks (packed)</td> <td class="tcr">96&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Two pickaxes</td> <td class="tcr">14&emsp;8</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Shovel</td> <td class="tcr">6&emsp;8</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Store bag</td> <td class="tcr">25&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Cooking gear</td> <td class="tcr">29&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Gun and ammunition</td> <td class="tcr">25&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Medical stores</td> <td class="tcr">12&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Instruments</td> <td class="tcr">15&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tcr">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcc">Constant weights</td> <td class="tcr">584&ensp;12</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Forty-five days&rsquo; provisions for eight men (including packages)</td> <td class="tcr">1080&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tcr">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcc">Total</td> <td class="tcr">1664&ensp;12</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="noind">which, dragged by seven men, is equivalent to about
+238 lbs. per man to drag.</p>
+
+<p>This should never be exceeded, nor should it even
+be kept up for any length of time.</p>
+
+<p>It will thus be seen that it is impossible for a
+sledge party to be absent from the ship for more than
+seven weeks, at the outside, on its own resources.
+In order, therefore, to enable it to remain away for
+a longer period, depôts of provisions are established
+during the autumn on the line of route, and auxiliary
+sledges are despatched in the spring from which the
+extended parties may be replenished with provisions
+after they have been away from the ship some two
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page234" id="page234"></a>234</span>
+or three weeks. These auxiliary sledges, on their
+return, are again completed with provisions and sent
+out to meet the extended parties on their way back.
+By these means, a sledging party may remain away
+for as long as twelve or thirteen weeks.</p>
+
+<p>Depôts can only be laid out when there is a continuous
+coast line, and under circumstances when a
+<i>cache</i> containing provisions can easily be discovered.
+When the frozen ocean has to be traversed, depôts
+cannot be depended upon; for a movement of the ice,
+or the misfortune of wandering off the outward bound
+track during thick weather, would deprive the travellers
+of any chance of finding their supplies. The
+result in such a case would probably be fatal. The
+only way of ensuring an extended absence to a party
+sledging over the pack, is by sending with it an
+additional sledge. This, of course, entails the necessity
+of traversing the same road three times over.
+For the men must never under any circumstances
+(other than unavoidable necessity, caused by the
+sickness of some of the crew) be allowed to drag
+more than the outside weight of 240 lbs. at any one
+time.</p>
+
+<p>It would, I think, and I am now speaking from
+experience, be preferable, when such a journey is
+necessary, to send a sledge away for only six weeks
+rather than to provision a party for three months,
+and compel the men to undergo the monotonous and
+wearisome work of going over the same ground so
+often; and, I believe, quite as much work would be
+accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>The tents were all made of the lightest duck,<a name="fa2n" id="fa2n" href="#ft2n"><span class="sp">2</span></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page235" id="page235"></a>235</span>
+which was sufficient to protect us from the falling
+or drifting snow, and the keen cutting wind. The
+space inside was, of necessity, very limited; the
+width in which each man had to sleep being only
+fourteen inches. Whilst his head was touching one
+side of the tent, his feet were in contact with the
+other. The slightest movement of the sleeper during
+the night would disturb his neighbours on either
+side.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance to the tent had a porch attached to
+it, which was, of course, always carefully closed, and
+served to exclude the fine snow-drift that would otherwise
+have penetrated into the interior. The opposite
+side of the tent was fitted in a similar manner for the
+protection of the cook whilst engaged in preparing
+the meals. The duties of the cook during intensely
+cold weather entail hardships which it is scarcely possible
+to overrate. The poor cook is never in his sleeping
+bag until two or three hours after the rest of the
+party have been comfortably settled for the night, and
+he has always to rise in the morning a couple of
+hours before his comrades are disturbed, and this
+after a hard and fatiguing day&rsquo;s work. His cooking
+apparatus consists of a spirit lamp, a stearine lamp,
+a kettle, and a stew-pan. His fuel is either spirits of
+wine, or cocoa-nut stearine; and as the allowance
+of either is strictly limited, he has to be as economical
+as he possibly can. Should his fuel be consumed
+before the meal is cooked, he will get no more, and
+the pemmican will have to be eaten in a semi-frozen
+state. The odour and smoke emitted by the stearine
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page236" id="page236"></a>236</span>
+can only be appreciated by those who have served
+their apprenticeship as cooks to an Arctic sledge
+party! Many experiments were tried during the
+winter to improve our cooking apparatus, but few
+were attended with success. Mr. White devoted a
+good deal of thought and time to this important
+matter. By introducing a cone into the kettle and
+stew-pan he succeeded in gaining a decided advantage
+in rapidity of cooking, but then his plan also had its
+disadvantages, a difficulty of cleaning and an encroachment
+on valuable space being the chief objections
+to it. By giving the bottom of the pans and
+kettles a little more concavity, we gained a slight
+advantage in point of time, and time in cooking also
+means an economy of fuel. The tent robes, coverlets,
+and sleeping bags were all made of duffel. The knapsacks
+were made of duck, and contained the only
+spare clothing that each man was allowed to take.
+The contents consisted of two pairs of blanket wrappers,
+one pair of wadmill hose, one pair of moccasins,
+a skull-cap for sleeping in, a woollen cap presented
+to each person in the expedition by H.I.M. the Empress
+Eugénie, two pairs of mitts, a flannel shirt, a
+pair of drawers, a comforter, a pair of snow-spectacles,
+a towel, and a piece of soap. The latter was
+rather a superfluous article until the thaw set in.</p>
+
+<p>The store bag contained the pemmican chopper and
+board, a snow-knife and saw, some spare lashings of
+hide for the sledge, matches, slow match, twine, and
+various other small and useful articles.</p>
+
+<p>The scale of provisions to be used whilst sledging
+was almost identical with that of preceding expeditions,
+the only difference being that we reduced the
+allowance of spirits by half and doubled the amount
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page237" id="page237"></a>237</span>
+of tea and sugar. The following was the daily ration
+for each man:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="ws f90" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcl bb">&nbsp;</td> <td class="tcl bb">lb. oz.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Pemmican</td> <td class="tcl">1&emsp;0</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Bacon</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;4</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Biscuit</td> <td class="tcl">0&ensp;14</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Preserved potatoes</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;2</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Chocolate</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;1</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Sugar for ditto</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;0.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Tea for two meals</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;0.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Sugar for ditto</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;1.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Salt</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;0.25</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Pepper</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;0.05</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Onion powder or curry paste</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;0.125</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Rum</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;2</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Spirits of wine</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;2</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Stearine</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;3</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl">Tobacco (weekly)</td> <td class="tcl">0&emsp;3.5</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>This we found a very ample allowance, and one
+that could not, in my opinion, be improved upon.
+The different articles were excellent of their kind, and
+of very superior quality.</p>
+
+<p>Since our return to England, fault has been found
+with our leader because lime-juice was not included
+in the scale of dietary for the sledges, during April,
+as a daily ration. Our scale of diet was necessarily
+based on that of preceding expeditions, and we had
+no reason to expect that we should suffer from that
+dread disease, scurvy, any more than did our predecessors.
+Lime-juice had never before been taken as
+a daily ration by an extended sledge party, and Sir
+Leopold McClintock, the highest living authority, has
+since publicly declared that, in following the precedents
+established by former experience as regards the
+lime-juice, Sir George Nares acted exactly as he would
+have done under the same circumstances. Moreover,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page238" id="page238"></a>238</span>
+the lime-juice was supplied in a form that made it
+impossible to use during an Arctic March, April, or
+May, away from the ship. It was in bottles or very
+large heavy jars, and, of course, the moment such
+vessels were placed near a fire to thaw their contents,
+in such a temperature, they would have been cracked
+to pieces. This is a conclusive answer to those who,
+without experience, and ignorant of the conditions
+under which we travelled, have expressed opinions on
+this subject. After May, when it was possible to use
+it, lime-juice was always taken by our sledge parties
+as a daily ration. When we came home, the use was
+suggested of lime-juice lozenges, and the Medical
+Director General has proposed that lime-juice should
+be mixed with pemmican. It is certainly very much
+to be regretted that some such arrangements were
+not made and carried out before the expedition left
+England. It will be seen (if lime-juice would really
+have prevented the attack of scurvy) how terribly
+we had to suffer from the consequences of the omission.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Parr and myself each took two bottles
+of lime-juice, with the intention of using it when the
+warm weather of June arrived. It was not possible
+to use it to any advantage, hard frozen in a bottle,
+during March, April, or May.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Colan drew up very careful medical instructions
+for the commanders of sledges, and each received
+some elementary surgical instruction. The doctor
+also paid most anxious attention to the contents of
+the medical chest, the weight of which was not allowed
+to exceed 12 lbs.<a name="fa3n" id="fa3n" href="#ft3n"><span class="sp">3</span></a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page239" id="page239"></a>239</span></p>
+
+<p>The clothing worn by the men engaged in the
+sledging operations was somewhat different from that
+in use during the winter. Our under clothing was
+made of thick flannel. Over this we wore one or two
+flannel or check shirts, long sleeved woollen waist-coats,
+thick knitted guernseys, and duffel trousers,
+the latter reaching about a foot below the knee. All
+wore broad flannel belts, commonly called cholera
+belts, round their loins. On our heads we had
+woollen helmet caps, called by the men &ldquo;Eugenies,&rdquo;
+and over this was worn a thick sealskin cap with ear
+and neck flaps attached.</p>
+
+<p>Our feet were encased in blanket wrappers, one or
+two pairs according to the temperature, a pair of thick
+woollen hose reaching above the knees and worn over
+the trousers, and moccasins. The latter, as supplied
+to us, only came up round the ankle, so we fitted
+them with leggings. Those who were provided with
+chamois leather made their leggings of that material,
+but the majority cut the sleeves off their check shirts
+which, when sewn on to the moccasin, answered
+admirably, their chief use being to keep the snow
+from penetrating into the trousers. Some of the
+moccasins were also soled with leather, obtained by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page240" id="page240"></a>240</span>
+cutting off the upper part of the fishermen&rsquo;s boots, a
+pair of which had been supplied to each person. As
+a rule these soles were quickly worn out, and the men
+were soon reduced to the bare moccasin, which, however,
+lasted wonderfully.</p>
+
+<p>Large gauntlet mitts were made during the winter,
+of fearnought covered with duck, and worn with a
+strap round the neck. These were only supplied to
+the sledgers, and were found very useful. At night-time
+they were used on the feet in the sleeping bags,
+and certainly assisted very materially in keeping them
+warm. Finally each person was provided with a suit
+of duck overalls, to act as &ldquo;snow repellers,&rdquo; which
+were always worn whilst on the march. As an extra
+precaution against snow-blindness, the men were
+ordered to paint some device on the backs of these
+snow jumpers in order to afford a certain amount of
+relief to the eyes of their comrades. The designs of
+these devices or crests were left entirely to the artistic
+imaginations of the men, and they caused a good
+deal of merriment. They were certainly more quaint
+than elegant. Donkeys and Polar bears in various
+wonderful positions appeared to be in the greatest
+favour. Each crest was accompanied by a motto,
+invariably a Latin one. Whether these devices relieved
+us from severe attacks of snow-blindness or
+not it would be difficult to decide. They served at
+any rate to amuse us, and often formed the topic of
+conversation when other subjects were getting scarce.
+Snow-spectacles were invariably used by the travellers,
+and were only taken off after the party had
+halted for the night and had sought the shelter of
+their tent. In consequence of the adoption of these
+snow-goggles when we first set out on our travels, we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page241" id="page241"></a>241</span>
+were comparatively exempt from that painful disease,
+snow-blindness, from which other expeditions have
+more or less suffered, and which renders the patient
+so attacked utterly helpless. We occasionally had a
+few cases, but with one or two exceptions they were in
+a very mild form.</p>
+
+<p>Such were the details of the general equipment
+of the sledging parties that were despatched from the
+&ldquo;Alert&rdquo; in the spring of 1876. Officers and men
+shared alike in everything; they had the same provisions,
+their costume was identical, they shared the
+same couch and tent, and each showed the same
+zealous desire to perform his duty, and the same
+eager anxiety to bring to a successful issue the service
+on which they were employed.</p>
+
+<p>Although the whole of the available force on board
+the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; was engaged in the sledging operations
+of the spring, we were only able to despatch <i>two</i>
+extended parties.<a name="fa4n" id="fa4n" href="#ft4n"><span class="sp">4</span></a> The rest of the men and sledges
+were required to act as auxiliaries to the advanced
+parties, and were continually employed during the
+summer until the return of all the travellers brought
+our sledging operations to a conclusion.</p>
+
+<p>The programme to be carried out, and which was
+determined upon after very mature and careful deliberation,
+was for one party, the command of which
+was given to Aldrich the first lieutenant, to continue
+the discoveries of the autumn by exploring the coast
+line to the westward; whilst a larger party, which
+was entrusted to my conduct, was to push across the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page242" id="page242"></a>242</span>
+rugged polar pack, and endeavour to reach as high
+a northern latitude as possible. The exploration of
+the north side of Greenland, to the eastward, and the
+examination of the fiords in Robeson Channel, were
+left to the sledge parties from the &ldquo;Discovery.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The difficulties to be encountered and the serious
+obstacles to be overcome in the journey due north
+over the frozen sea were well understood. We had
+made ourselves acquainted with the nature of the
+travelling to be anticipated by various short excursions
+on the ice in the vicinity of the ship, and were,
+therefore, fully aware of the serious character of the
+work that was before us. None were so rash as to
+indulge in any extravagant ideas of successfully reaching
+a very high position. The parallel of 84°, or
+perhaps 85° by the more sanguine, was regarded as
+the highest that could possibly be attained.</p>
+
+<p>It was a well-known fact, before the ship went into
+winter quarters, that the polar pack, composed of
+extraordinarily heavy ice, was in motion at that
+season. This motion, or perhaps a general disruption,
+would occur, it was calculated, in about July
+or August, possibly in June. It was, therefore, not
+only a measure of prudence, but one of absolute
+necessity, that the party destined to travel over this
+frozen ocean should be provided with the means of
+safety to themselves, if a disruption should take place
+at an earlier period than was anticipated. It was
+therefore decided that two boats,<a name="fa5n" id="fa5n" href="#ft5n"><span class="sp">5</span></a> capable of conveying
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page243" id="page243"></a>243</span>
+the whole party from one floe to another, should
+form part of the equipment of the northern division.
+This additional weight, of course, seriously augmented
+the labour of the men.</p>
+
+<p>The only previous attempt to advance over a frozen
+sea, away from the land, was made by Sir Edward
+Parry, in his memorable journey towards the North
+Pole in 1827.<a name="fa6n" id="fa6n" href="#ft6n"><span class="sp">6</span></a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page244" id="page244"></a>244</span></p>
+
+<p>For reasons already stated, the northern party was
+unable to lay out depôts on the ice, nor could our
+sledges be met by supporting sledges until after their
+return to the land. It therefore became necessary
+that they should carry with them sufficient provisions
+to last for the whole time of anticipated absence.
+This, with the boats, obliged the two sledge crews
+composing the division to take with them a <i>third</i>
+sledge, so that under the most favourable conditions
+of travelling, they would be compelled, after advancing
+two sledges, to return over the same road and drag
+on the third. This we fondly hoped on starting we
+should be able to accomplish; little did we think that
+the fearfully rugged nature of the road would necessitate
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page245" id="page245"></a>245</span>
+the same distance being traversed five or even
+seven times.</p>
+
+<p>For the same reason that the men were ordered
+to emblazon arms and crests on the backs of their
+clothes, we had the boats which were to accompany
+the sledges painted with gay and brilliant devices.
+The rose, shamrock, and thistle were painted on the
+hulls, and the royal arms decorated their sterns. Moss,
+on this as on other occasions, was the artist; his great
+difficulty in accomplishing the work being that in
+spite of the quantity of turpentine with which the
+paint was mixed, it persisted in freezing in the brush,
+rendering that article more like a stick than an
+artist&rsquo;s pencil.</p>
+
+<p>The sledges were, of course, all named by their
+commanders.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1n" id="ft1n" href="#fa1n"><span class="fn">1</span></a> The eight-men sledge has six uprights eighteen inches apart.
+It is eleven feet long, three feet two inches wide, eleven inches
+high, and weighs 130 lbs. complete. In former expeditions sails were
+frequently used on the sledges to great advantage, when travelling
+over smooth ice. But we were seldom so fortunate as to meet with
+ice which was suitable for sailing, in any of our sledge journeys.
+May and Egerton got their sledges under sail on an extensive floe
+in Robeson Channel, when they crossed over to the Greenland side;
+but as a rule the ice we met with was far too rough to make the
+use of sails practicable. In rigging a sail on the sledge two tent
+poles are lashed together as a yard, with a spare pole as a foot
+yard. The other two tent poles are used as shears, and at their
+ends a mast-head iron, or shear head, is fitted, consisting of two
+rings united by a piece of iron about three inches long, from the
+centre of which there is a hook on each side for the steadying guys,
+and a small block for the halyards is seized on to the iron between
+the rings. A spare cross-bar is placed on the top of the lading,
+over the midship uprights, and lashed down to the bearer. It is
+fitted with a span seized along its top-side, and the bights, with
+a thimble in each, project just beyond the cross-bar. The ends of
+the shears are then stepped into the thimbles attached to this cross-bar,
+and the sail hoisted. On smooth ice, with the wind aft or on
+the quarter, a sledge will travel under sail at a good pace. But
+smooth ice was almost unknown in the region explored by our
+expedition.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2n" id="ft2n" href="#fa2n"><span class="fn">2</span></a> The tents were of light, close, unbleached duck. The eight-men
+tents were nine feet four inches long at the bottom, and eight feet at
+the top, seven feet wide and high, and weighed 44 lbs. The tent
+ropes are six fathoms long of one and a quarter inch, and the tent
+poles eight feet six inches long.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft3n" id="ft3n" href="#fa3n"><span class="fn">3</span></a> The medical stores for each sledge were:&mdash;2 phials of sal volatile
+and aromatic spirits of ammonia; 2 phials of laudanum; 2 phials of
+wine of opium; a small tin of Gregory&rsquo;s powders; 12 papers (10
+grains each) of Dover&rsquo;s powders; 32 papers (15 grains each) of chalk
+powders; 30 papers (4 grains each) of sugar of lead; a bottle of turpentine
+liniment; a phial of carbolic acid; glycerine ointment; white
+ointment; carbolic plaster; 4 dozen purgative pills; oil silk. Sponge,
+pins, expanding splints, and carbolized tow, cotton wool, a catheter,
+a tourniquet, a truss with pad, a lancet, twill, Persian gauze, 2 eye
+shades, small splint, scissors, flannel ice goggles, tape, mustard, 3
+calico bandages, 2 flannel bandages, and lint. These stores were in
+a wooden case, and a medicine tin for bottles, together weighing
+4 lbs.; while their contents weighed 7 lbs. 11 ozs., together, 12 lbs.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft4n" id="ft4n" href="#fa4n"><span class="fn">4</span></a> Our available force was much smaller than that of the expeditions
+under Sir Horatio Austin (1850-51), and Sir Henry Kellet (1852-54).
+They enjoyed the great advantage of having a third larger force&mdash;ninety
+instead of sixty men.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft5n" id="ft5n" href="#fa5n"><span class="fn">5</span></a> The sledges for carrying boats have the two end cross-bars fitted
+with two cleats, one on each side of the boat&rsquo;s keel. These cleats
+are seven inches long, and are securely lashed to the cross-bars.
+Two battens of American elm, each two inches wide and half an inch
+thick, are lashed in a fore and aft direction to the top of the cross-bars
+three and a half inches apart, that is to say one and three-quarters
+inch on each side of the central bearer. They are sufficiently
+long to allow of being secured to all the cross-bars. When the boat
+is placed on the sledge the keel rests on the cross-bars between the
+cleats, and is held in an upright position by one long cushion of stout
+canvas, stuffed with cork cuttings, on each side, and these are kept
+in their places by lashings.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft6n" id="ft6n" href="#fa6n"><span class="fn">6</span></a> As Sir Edward Parry&rsquo;s attempt to reach the Pole was the only
+extended journey that was ever undertaken due north across the
+Polar Sea, until the second attempt was made by the northern division
+of sledges under my command, it will be well to give, in this place,
+the details of Parry&rsquo;s equipment and the result of his expedition.</p>
+
+<p>A Sir Edward Parry sailed from England in the &ldquo;Hecla,&rdquo; on April
+3rd, 1827; when placing her in a safe harbour on the north coast
+of Spitzbergen, he commenced his memorable attempt to reach the
+Pole on June 21st. He had two boats, the &ldquo;Enterprise&rdquo; and the
+&ldquo;Endeavour.&rdquo; Parry himself, with Mr. Beverley, was in the former,
+James Ross and Edward Bird in the latter. Ten seamen and two
+marines formed the crew of each boat. The boats were flat-bottomed,
+with the extreme breadth of seven feet, carried well forward and
+aft, and twenty feet long, the timbers of tough ash and hickory. On
+the outside frame a system of planking was adopted with a view to
+securing elasticity in the frequent concussions with the ice. This
+consisted of a covering of waterproof canvas coated with tar, then
+a thin fir plank, then a sheet of felt, and, lastly, a thin oak plank,
+all secured to the timbers by iron screws. On each side of the keel
+there was a strong runner shod with metal, like that of a sledge, on
+which the boats entirely rested when on the ice. A hide span across
+the fore-part of the runners had two horse-hair drag ropes attached
+to it. The boats had two thwarts, a locker at each end, a light
+framework along the sides for containing provisions and spare clothes,
+a bamboo mast, and tanned duck sail, fourteen paddles, and a steer
+oar. They started with seventy-one days&rsquo; provisions. The weight
+of each boat was 1,539 lbs., and the total weight, with provisions,
+3,753 lbs., or 268 lbs. per man; besides four light taboggan sledges
+weighing 26 lbs. each. The daily allowance for each man was
+10 ozs. of biscuit, 9 ozs. of pemmican, 1 oz. of cocoa, and 1 gill of
+rum. Parry took no lime-juice. They slept in the boat with sails
+as awnings, and travelled during the night.</p>
+
+<p>They sailed in the boats until June 23rd, when it became necessary
+to haul them on the ice in 81° 12&prime; 51&Prime; N. The actual travelling then
+began over floes of small extent, intersected by hummocks. After
+a journey of thirty days, Parry reached his most northern point on
+July 23rd, in latitude, by dead reckoning, 82° 45&prime; N. No actual
+observation for latitude was obtained at their extreme northern point.
+They had travelled ninety-two miles over the ice, and two hundred
+in the boats before they hauled them on to the floe, but were only
+one hundred and seventy-two miles from the &ldquo;Hecla.&rdquo; Such had
+been the drift of the floes to the southward. The boats returned to
+the &ldquo;Hecla&rdquo; on August 21st, and Parry arrived in England again
+on October 6th.</p>
+
+<p>This journey was made in the middle of summer after the disruption
+of the ice. The daily allowance of food for the men was insufficient,
+and the weight of 26 lbs. for each man was too great. But these
+were points which could only be learnt by experience, and Sir Edward
+Parry was the pioneer of Arctic sledge travelling. He attained the
+highest northern latitude ever before reached by man, and it was
+forty-eight years and two months before any explorer succeeded
+in going beyond the parallel which Parry reached in 1827.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page246" id="page246"></a>246</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XX.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;You were used to say,</p>
+<p class="i05">Extremity was the trier of spirits,</p>
+<p class="i05">That common chances common men could bear,</p>
+<p class="i05">That when the sea was calm, all boats alike</p>
+<p class="i05">Showed mastership in floating.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">It</span> was a part of Captain Nares&rsquo;s scheme for the
+spring campaign that, before the departure of the
+extended parties, a dog sledge should be despatched
+to communicate with our consort wintering some fifty
+miles to the southward of us.</p>
+
+<p>The officers and men of the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; were, of
+course, in total ignorance of our position and even
+of our safety, for no communication had taken place
+between the two ships since the day of our departure
+from Discovery Harbour, seven months before. As
+soon as there was sufficient light to admit of travelling,
+the important and necessary duty had to be undertaken
+of conveying information to her respecting our
+position, so that the anxiety of her people concerning
+our safety might be relieved, and also that the
+Captain of the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; might be made acquainted
+with our intentions regarding the routes of
+exploration allotted to our sledge travellers. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page247" id="page247"></a>247</span>
+parties from the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; would then adopt
+other routes, and thus the area of unknown country
+to he explored would be extended to the utmost limit
+possible. The work of the expedition, consisting of
+the journeys of the different parties from the two
+ships, taking different routes, would thus embrace
+all that human effort could achieve with the means
+provided.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:790px; height:478px" src="images/img273.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">DOGS AND SLEDGE.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The duty of communicating with the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo;
+was entrusted to Egerton; and Rawson, who was
+naturally desirous of re-visiting his ship, was allowed
+to accompany him. Their sledge was dragged by a
+team of nine dogs, and the party was provisioned and
+equipped for an absence of ten days. If they failed
+in accomplishing their object in that time, and their
+supplies became exhausted, they could replenish their
+stock from the large depôt that had been established
+during the previous autumn at a point about midway
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page248" id="page248"></a>248</span>
+between the two ships, in Lincoln Bay. Petersen,
+the Danish interpreter, accompanied the two officers
+in the capacity of dog driver.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of the very low temperature experienced
+during the first week in March, their time
+of departure had to be deferred. Sunday, the 12th
+of March, was the day eventually selected for the start
+of this the first sledging expedition of the season.</p>
+
+<p>The temperature on that morning was low, but rose
+gradually towards noon, until it seemed inclined to
+remain stationary at 30° below zero.</p>
+
+<p>There were further indications of a continuance of
+fine weather, from the day being bright and clear and
+the barometer steady. Letters to our friends on
+board the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; were hastily finished. Immediately
+divine service had been performed the
+colours were hoisted, and amidst the cheers of &ldquo;all
+hands,&rdquo; who had assembled on the floe to bid the
+travellers God speed, H.M. sledge &ldquo;Clements Markham,&rdquo;
+with its bright standard fluttering out bravely
+before a light breeze, started with the object of
+renewing intercourse with our comrades in the
+&ldquo;Discovery.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>For the next two or three days our thoughts on
+board were constantly with the absent ones, especially
+as the temperature, shortly after their departure, had
+again fallen very low. This, however, caused us little
+uneasiness, for we knew that everything that lay in
+our power had been done to protect them from any
+sudden and extreme cold, and we all had the greatest
+confidence in the skill, discretion, and sound judgment
+of our two messmates. Many a silent prayer
+was offered up in their behalf, that they might accomplish
+their mission in safety, and return speedily with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page249" id="page249"></a>249</span>
+good news of those who, like ourselves, were wintering
+in the ice.</p>
+
+<p>On the third day they returned unexpectedly with a
+sad tale of woe and suffering, and with the poor Dane
+utterly prostrate and helpless on the sledge. I cannot
+do better than relate the sad story in Lieutenant
+Egerton&rsquo;s own words.</p>
+
+<p>We read in his official report, that not five hours
+after they had left the ship &ldquo;frost-bites became so
+numerous, that I thought it advisable to encamp.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>This was only the beginning of the story, for they
+appear to have passed a comparatively comfortable
+night.</p>
+
+<p>At any rate they were up early the next morning
+and again under weigh; at about one o&rsquo;clock, when
+they halted for lunch, Petersen complained of cramp
+in his stomach and was given some hot tea. He had
+no appetite, which perhaps was as well, for we read of
+the bacon, which is always used for lunch, &ldquo;We were
+unable to eat it, being frozen so hard that we could
+not get our teeth through the lean.&rdquo; They still continued
+their journey, encountering some very rough
+travelling, which necessitated severe physical labour
+on the part of the two officers. &ldquo;The dogs were of
+little or no use in getting across these slopes, as it
+was impossible to get them to go up the cliff, and
+Petersen being unable to work, Lieutenant Rawson
+and I had to get the sledge along as best we could.&rdquo;
+Towards the end of the day we read: &ldquo;Petersen
+began to get rather worse, and was shivering all over,
+his nose being constantly frost-bitten, and at times
+taking five or ten minutes before the circulation could
+be thoroughly restored. Lieutenant Rawson had
+several small frost-bites, and I escaped with only
+one.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page250" id="page250"></a>250</span></p>
+
+<p>On halting for the night, directly the tent was
+pitched they sent Petersen inside with strict injunctions
+to shift his foot gear and get into his sleeping-bag,
+whilst they busied themselves in preparing
+supper and attending to the dogs; but when they
+entered the tent, they found &ldquo;that he had turned in
+without shifting his foot gear, was groaning a good
+deal, and complaining of cramp in the stomach and
+legs.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Having made him change, they gave him some tea,
+and then administered a few drops of sal volatile,
+which appeared to give the poor fellow a little ease.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning the wind was so high and their
+patient in such a weak state that they did not think
+it prudent to attempt a start. He had passed a very
+restless night, and still complained very much of
+cramp.</p>
+
+<p>Later in the day he appeared to get worse, &ldquo;shaking
+and shivering all over and breathing in short gasps.
+His face, hands, and feet were all frost-bitten, the
+latter severely, and he had pains in his side as well.&rdquo;
+After restoring the circulation they rubbed him with
+warm flannels and placed one of their comforters
+round his stomach.</p>
+
+<p>In such a wretched state was the poor fellow that
+they agreed it would endanger his life if they proceeded
+on their journey; and that when the weather
+moderated the only course they could pursue was to
+return with all haste to their ship.</p>
+
+<p>As it was impossible to keep their patient warm in
+the tent, these two young officers burrowed a hole in
+a snow-drift, and into this cavity they transported the
+sick man, themselves, and all their tent robes, closing
+the aperture by placing over it the tent and sledge.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page251" id="page251"></a>251</span>
+They deprived themselves of their own clothing for
+the benefit of the invalid, whose frozen feet they
+actually placed inside their clothes in direct contact
+with their bodies, until their own heat was extracted
+and they were themselves severely frost-bitten in
+various parts. The poor fellow was now in a very
+low state; he could retain neither food nor liquid.
+&ldquo;About 6 <span class="scs">P.M.</span> he was very bad; this time worse
+than before. There appeared to be no heat in him of
+any kind whatever, and he had acute pains in the
+stomach and back. We chafed him on the stomach,
+hands, face, and feet, and when he got better wrapped
+him up in everything warm we could lay our hands
+upon,&rdquo; namely, their own clothing, which they could
+ill afford to lose; but they entirely forgot their own
+condition in their endeavours to ameliorate that of
+their comrade. Lighting their spirit lamp and carefully
+closing every crevice by which the cold air could
+enter, they succeeded in raising the temperature of
+the interior to 7°; but &ldquo;the atmosphere in the hut
+became somewhat thick!&rdquo; This was, however, preferable
+to the intense cold. Let us follow the story
+out, and learn how nobly these two officers tended
+their sick and suffering companion. &ldquo;We were constantly
+asking if he was warm in his feet and hands,
+to which he replied in the affirmative; but before
+making him comfortable&rdquo; (fancy being <i>comfortable</i>
+under such circumstances!) &ldquo;for the night, we
+examined his feet, and found them both perfectly
+gelid and hard from the toes to the ankle, his hands
+nearly as bad. So each taking a foot we set to work
+to warm them with our hands and flannels, as each
+hand and flannel got cold <i>warming them about our
+persons</i>, and also lit up the spirit lamp. In about
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page252" id="page252"></a>252</span>
+two hours we got his feet to, and put them in warm
+foot gear, cut his bag down to allow him more room
+to move in, and then wrapped him up in the spare
+coverlet. His hands we also brought round and
+bound them up in flannel wrappers, with mitts over
+all. Gave him some warm tea and a little rum and
+water, which he threw up. Shortly after I found him
+eating snow, which we had strictly forbidden once or
+twice before. In endeavouring to do this again during
+the night, he dragged his feet out of the covering;
+but only a few minutes could have elapsed before
+this was detected by Lieutenant Rawson, who, upon
+examining his feet, found them in much the same
+state as before. We rubbed and chafed them again
+for over an hour, and when circulation was restored
+wrapped him up again, and so passed the third
+night.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The patience and endurance of the two officers are
+beyond all praise. It is difficult to realize the misery
+of that night. Wearied with the severe physical exertions
+of the two previous days, having their own
+meals to prepare and the dogs to look after, they had
+to pass a sleepless and anxious night in their endeavours
+to keep life in the body of their half-frozen
+comrade.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning Petersen appeared to be
+slightly better, so thinking it was preferable to run
+the risk of taking him back as he was, than to pass
+such another night as the last, they put him on the
+sledge, and, having hurriedly eaten their breakfast,
+they started for the ship with all despatch. They
+had a rough journey before them of eighteen miles;
+but they knew it was a case of life and death, and
+they encouraged the dogs to their utmost speed. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page253" id="page253"></a>253</span>
+dogs, being homeward bound, were willing enough
+and needed little persuasion, so that, for a time, they
+rattled along at a good pace. But actual progress
+could not have been very rapid, for we read in Egerton&rsquo;s
+report that the patient&rsquo;s &ldquo;circulation was so
+feeble that his face and hands were constantly frost-bitten,
+entailing frequent stoppages whilst we endeavoured
+to restore the affected parts.&rdquo; The difficulties
+of the homeward journey may be gathered from the
+following extracts: &ldquo;On arriving at the Black Cape
+we had to take the patient off the sledge, and while
+one assisted him round, the other kept the dogs back,
+for by this time they knew they were homeward bound,
+and required no small amount of trouble to hold in.
+After getting the sledge round and restoring Petersen&rsquo;s
+hands and nose (which were almost as bad again a
+few minutes after), and securing him on the sledge,
+we again set off. At the next cape the same difficulties
+were experienced, in fact rather more, for the
+sledge took charge down a &lsquo;ditch,&rsquo;<a name="fa1o" id="fa1o" href="#ft1o"><span class="sp">1</span></a> about twenty-five
+feet deep, turning right over three times in its descent,
+and out of which we had to drag it, and while clearing
+harness (which employed us both, one to stand in
+front of the dogs with the whip, while the other
+cleared the lines), the dogs made a sudden bolt past
+Lieutenant Rawson, who was in front with the whip,
+and dragged me more than a hundred yards before we
+could stop them. At length, after the usual process
+with Petersen (that of thawing his hands and nose,
+which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was
+actually necessary to stop), we got away, thankful that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page254" id="page254"></a>254</span>
+our troubles were over. The dogs got their harness
+into a dreadful entanglement in their excitement to
+get home; but we were afraid to clear them lest they
+should break away from us, or cause us any delay, as
+we were both naturally anxious to return with the
+utmost speed to the ship, and so relieve ourselves of
+the serious responsibility occasioned by the very precarious
+state in which our patient was lying. Upon
+arriving alongside at 6.30 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>, we were very thankful
+that Petersen was able to answer us when we informed
+him he was at home.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Poor fellow! it was the last home he ever reached
+alive, for in two short months his remains were
+carried from the ship and laid in their last resting-place
+in this world, on the summit of a low hill
+overlooking the scene of his last sledge journey! In
+conclusion, Egerton says, &ldquo;I regret exceedingly that
+I have been compelled to return to the ship without
+having accomplished my journey to H.M.S. &lsquo;Discovery;&rsquo;
+but I trust that what I have done will meet
+with your approval, and that the course I adopted
+may be the means of having lessened the very serious
+and distressing condition of Petersen.&rdquo; Gallant
+fellow! of course his doings meet not only with the
+approval but the admiration of all Englishmen who
+take pride in the noble and heroic deeds of their countrymen.
+The work of these two brave young officers
+on this occasion stands out conspicuously amongst
+the many deeds of daring and devotion with which
+the annals of Arctic adventure abound.</p>
+
+<p>It must be remembered that during the time they
+were away the sun had only just made its reappearance,
+and was therefore at a very low altitude, so that
+little benefit could be derived from its rays; and it
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page255" id="page255"></a>255</span>
+only afforded sufficient light to enable the travellers to
+keep on the march for about eight or nine hours a
+day.<a name="fa2o" id="fa2o" href="#ft2o"><span class="sp">2</span></a> On the 20th of March, five days after the
+return from their calamitous journey, the same two
+officers made another and a more successful start.
+On this occasion they were accompanied by a couple
+of sailors, and their sledge was dragged by a team of
+seven dogs. In five days, after a severe and toilsome
+journey, rendered doubly so by the extreme cold and
+the heavy nature of the road over which they had to
+travel, they reached the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; conveying to
+her officers and crew the pleasing intelligence of our
+safety, and receiving in return an account of the
+happy winter passed by them.</p>
+
+<p>Poor Petersen never recovered from the effects of
+this journey. He rallied a little after he arrived on
+board, and was placed under the tender and skilful
+treatment of Dr. Colan, who for some time held out
+slight hopes of his recovery; but the injuries he had
+received were of too serious a nature to admit of much
+hope, and he gradually sank until he expired peacefully
+on the 14th of May. Perhaps it was better that
+it should be so, for the poor fellow would not only
+have been disfigured by losing portions of his nose
+and ears, but he would also have been a cripple,
+for the doctor had been compelled to amputate both
+his feet in order to stop the mortification from extending.
+These frost-bites are indeed very dreadful, and
+must always be quickly taken in hand so as to avoid
+any serious result.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page256" id="page256"></a>256</span></p>
+
+<p>So cold were the frozen limbs of poor Petersen, that
+his companions said it was like touching cold steel,
+and produced frost-bite almost as rapidly as if they
+were really touching a piece of metal!</p>
+
+<p>Although this chapter is rather a mournful one,
+and has a very melancholy termination, I make no
+apology for having devoted it entirely to our first
+sledging expedition of the season, believing that my
+readers will feel both pride and pleasure in hearing of
+the noble conduct of my two messmates.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1o" id="ft1o" href="#fa1o"><span class="fn">1</span></a> By a &ldquo;ditch&rdquo; is meant a hollow formed between a high snow-drift
+and a hummock or any projection. Some of these ditches were
+very steep and precipitous.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2o" id="ft2o" href="#fa2o"><span class="fn">2</span></a> In previous expeditions parties have left their ships in March;
+but the March of 75° N. is very different from the March of 82° N.
+In the former position the sun has been many days longer above the
+horizon than in 82° N.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page257" id="page257"></a>257</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XXI.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p class="i5">&ldquo;We are well persuaded</p>
+<p>We carry not a heart with us from hence</p>
+<p>That grows not in a fair consent with ours;</p>
+<p>Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish</p>
+<p>Success and conquest to attend on us.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><i>Henry V.</i></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">On</span> the morning of Monday, the 3rd of April, an
+unwonted bustle and excitement on board and around
+the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; betokened that something unusual was
+taking place. Men in their travelling costumes might
+have been observed busily engaged in adding the last
+finishing touches to the already well-packed sledges.
+Officers, also in travelling attire, were carefully conveying
+delicate instruments from the ship to the row
+of sledges drawn up in &ldquo;line of battle&rdquo; on the floe,
+whilst the white ensign flying from the peak bore
+witness of some important event.</p>
+
+<p>The day was indeed one of memorable import, for
+it was the one that we had all, during the long dark
+winter, looked forward to as that on which our real
+work was to commence. It was the day on which we
+were to start forth with the object of achieving all
+that was possible with the means at our disposal, in
+the great and glorious work of increasing the stock
+of geographical knowledge respecting the Polar
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page258" id="page258"></a>258</span>
+regions. No wonder, then, that the scene of our
+winter quarters presented an animated and unwonted
+appearance on that bright but intensely cold morning.</p>
+
+<p>The sledges, seven in number, on two of which were
+placed the boats to accompany the northern division,
+were drawn up in single line, one before the other,
+according to the seniority of their respective leaders.
+They were all fully equipped and provisioned, and
+were &ldquo;manned&rdquo; by a force of fifty-three officers and
+men; a chosen band, eager to emulate the deeds of
+their predecessors, and willing to risk their lives in
+bringing to a successful issue the task they had resolved
+to accomplish.</p>
+
+<p>A strict medical examination had been held a day
+or two previously, and the rather unnecessary
+question, &ldquo;Do you feel yourself fit and able in every
+way to go sledging?&rdquo; was put to all. It is needless
+to record the answer!</p>
+
+<p>On the previous day, being Sunday, Pullen preached
+a capital sermon, drawing comparisons between the
+undertaking in which we were about to engage, and
+the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land.
+The hymn &ldquo;for those at sea&rdquo; was sung and the Holy
+Communion celebrated, at which latter service there
+was an exceptionally good attendance, the number
+of communicants amongst the men having largely
+increased.</p>
+
+<p>From each sledge flew the bright colours of its
+commander&rsquo;s standard: a swallow-tailed flag bearing
+the armorial colours, and emblazoned with the crest
+of its owner, each charged with the red cross of St.
+George. In addition, the two boats displayed from
+their mast-heads Captain Nares&rsquo;s Union Jack and
+a white ensign. Worked by the fair hands of some
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page259" id="page259"></a>259</span>
+loved and cherished one at home, these standards,
+as they fluttered out bravely before a gentle breeze,
+kindled our enthusiasm, whilst they materially added
+to the spirit and gaiety of the scene.</p>
+
+<p>The sledges were arranged in the following order:&mdash;&ldquo;Marco
+Polo&rdquo; (with a boat), &ldquo;Challenger,&rdquo; &ldquo;Victoria&rdquo;
+(with a boat), &ldquo;Poppie,&rdquo; &ldquo;Bulldog,&rdquo; &ldquo;Alexandra,&rdquo;
+and &ldquo;Bloodhound;&rdquo; the latter was only a
+small sledge party ordered to accompany us for three
+or four days, then supply us with three days&rsquo; provisions,
+and return to the ship to report our progress.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven o&rsquo;clock, everything being in readiness for
+a start, all hands assembled on the floe, and prayers
+were read by Pullen. The hymn, &ldquo;God, from whom
+all blessings flow,&rdquo; was then sung, after which the
+order was given to &ldquo;fall in,&rdquo; and, amidst the hearty
+cheers of those few who were left behind, the sledging
+parties moved off. The captain and officers accompanied
+us for a short distance, when, wishing us Godspeed,
+they turned to go back. This was a signal for
+three cheers from the travellers, after which they
+settled down to their work, and the march was steadily
+commenced.</p>
+
+<p>The first day&rsquo;s march was necessarily a short one.
+It was to many their introduction to the &ldquo;drag-ropes,&rdquo;
+and symptoms of fatigue were soon detected, caused
+by the energetic exertions of the inexperienced, who,
+unlike the veterans of the previous autumn, overtaxed
+their strength in their ardour to perform a good day&rsquo;s
+work.</p>
+
+<p>The temperature at starting was 33° below zero,
+and at this it remained steady the whole day, rendering
+the task of writing up our journals when we halted
+extremely unpleasant and painful.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page260" id="page260"></a>260</span></p>
+
+<p>The scene of our first encampment was an animated
+and picturesque one. We had marched about six
+miles from the ship, and the site selected was at the
+base of a low brow, forming a connection or isthmus
+between a long projecting tongue and the mainland.
+Here we pitched our seven tents, from each of which
+the smoke from the cooking utensils issued, ascending
+in spiral columns until lost amidst the clouds. In
+our rear were the snow-clad hills, whilst in front was
+the illimitable frozen sea. Men hurried about in
+the execution of various duties incidental to &ldquo;pitching
+for the night,&rdquo; such as the issuing of provisions by
+the several sledge-captains, the banking up with snow
+of the exterior of the tents, the re-packing of the
+sledges, or the careful covering up of the lading so as
+to ensure its protection from snow-drift; all of which
+duties must be sedulously carried out before rest and
+repose can be sought in the sleeping-bags. A pleasing
+aroma of cooking tea was mixed with the fragrance
+of stewed pemmican, and made us smack our lips in
+anticipation of the meal that was preparing.</p>
+
+<p>Not the least hard part of a day&rsquo;s work is that of
+camping after a toilsome and weary journey, especially
+when the temperature is low and a cold sleepless
+night anticipated; but when the weather is warm
+enough to obtain a good night&rsquo;s rest, the order to halt
+is always received with very great satisfaction, more
+especially when a good day&rsquo;s work has been accomplished,
+with the prospect of fair travelling on the
+morrow.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the tents are ready for the reception of
+the men, they enter one by one, take off their &ldquo;overalls&rdquo;
+for which their duffel coats are substituted,
+change their foot gear and get into their sleeping-bags.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page261" id="page261"></a>261</span>
+This change of foot gear in the morning and
+evening is the whole extent of the toilet performed by
+the sledgers until their return to the ship!</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we were under weigh pretty
+early, having spent a cold wretched night, only too
+glad to be up and doing something, the temperature
+inside our tent, with all the men in their bags, being
+as low as 15° below zero. The experience gained
+during the autumn had a very salutary effect on the
+travellers, the apprehension even of frost-bite being in
+itself sufficient to banish all idea of sleep.</p>
+
+<p>The operation of dressing and undressing, although
+it is entirely limited to the clothing of the feet, is
+without doubt one of the most disagreeable duties
+connected with sledge travelling. Our hose and
+blanket-wrappers, although they were invariably kept
+<i>inside</i> our sleeping-bags during the night, were frozen
+so hard in the morning that they were with the
+greatest difficulty folded over our feet. Sometimes
+the wrappers were tied round the knees at night-time
+to protect them from the cold, for that part of our
+body seemed more sensitive to the temperature than
+any other.</p>
+
+<p>Not the least trying part of our toilet was lacing
+and tying the stiffly frozen strings of our equally hard
+moccasins with fingers either aching from cold or
+devoid of all sensation. Not only was this a very
+painful operation, but it was one that sorely taxed
+and ruffled the equanimity of our tempers.</p>
+
+<p>The snow over which we travelled was very soft
+and, unfortunately for us, was also very deep, making
+the dragging with our heavily laden sledges most
+laborious, in fact so much so that we were frequently
+compelled to resort to &ldquo;double banking;&rdquo; that is to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page262" id="page262"></a>262</span>
+say, the two crews would be employed in first dragging
+on one sledge and then return to advance the other.
+This, of course, made our progress very slow. After
+the long confinement of the men during the darkness
+of the winter, they were, in spite of the careful attention
+that had been paid to daily exercise, hardly in
+what might be called first-rate condition, so that
+fatigue for the first few days was felt by the majority,
+and not wishing to impose too much on their zealous
+desire to push on, short journeys were in consequence
+performed.</p>
+
+<p>On the second day out, the temperature fell to 45°
+below zero, or 77° below freezing point. The cold
+then was so intense as to deprive us of sleep, the
+temperature <i>inside</i> the tent being as low as -25°,
+the whole period of rest being occupied in attempting
+to keep the blood in circulation. Several frost-bites
+were sustained, but they were all attended to in time,
+and resulted in nothing worse than severe and very
+uncomfortable blisters.</p>
+
+<p>So hard were our tent robes and sleeping-bags
+frozen that they resembled sheet-iron, and care had
+to be taken to prevent them from coming into contact
+with the face, for an abrasion of the skin would undoubtedly
+follow!</p>
+
+<p>Our curry paste, a small quantity of which we used
+to mix with our pemmican to make it more palateable,
+looked, as the cook of the day observed, exactly like a
+piece of brass, and was equally hard. Cramp in the
+legs was complained of by many during the first few
+nights, but gradually wore off, having in all probability
+been induced by the severe and unaccustomed
+exercise. Thirst was also a subject of complaint,
+and this, except at meal times, it was impossible to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page263" id="page263"></a>263</span>
+alleviate; for although each man was supplied with a
+tin water-bottle covered with duffel, the water could
+not be prevented from freezing, in spite of the bottles
+being kept inside the waistbands of the men&rsquo;s trousers.
+The practice of quenching thirst by putting snow or
+ice into the mouth is a very dangerous one and was
+never permitted.</p>
+
+<p>On the fourth day out we parted with our little
+sledge, the &ldquo;Bloodhound,&rdquo; which, having fulfilled its
+mission, returned to the ship, taking back one of our
+party, who appeared unable to stand the fatigues of
+sledging, and leaving one of their crew to fill his
+vacancy. We were thus able to send back intelligence
+of our progress so far, and to report the health of the
+men to be satisfactory, and that all were in capital
+spirits. On the 10th of April the six sledges in company
+arrived at the depôt of provisions established
+near Cape Joseph Henry during the autumn, and
+found it undisturbed. The remainder of that day
+was employed in bringing the provisions off to the
+sledges, which were left on the ice, and in distributing
+them. The next morning was thick and foggy, the
+atmosphere being rendered doubly obscure by a heavy
+fall of snow.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;The cold, uncomfortable daylight dawned,</p>
+<p class="i05">And the white tents, topping a low ground fog,</p>
+<p class="i05">Show&rsquo;d like a fleet becalmed.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>On this day the supporting sledges &ldquo;Bulldog&rdquo; and
+&ldquo;Alexandra,&rdquo; having performed the duties allotted to
+them, bade farewell to their companions and returned
+to their ship. The two extended parties advanced on
+their solitary missions; the northern division leaving
+the land and pushing straight out on the rugged polar
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page264" id="page264"></a>264</span>
+pack, whilst the western party continued the exploration
+of the coast to the westward.</p>
+
+<p>It was a strange farewell that was taken on that
+cold dull day on the inhospitable ice-floe, amidst
+bristling hummocks and heaped up snow-drifts, as
+the several parties pursued their different courses, one
+returning to their Arctic home, the others to unknown
+difficulties, but to hoped-for discoveries.</p>
+
+<p>Brief was the parting, but sincere were the wishes
+for each other&rsquo;s success. Hearty British cheers resounded
+in that icy wilderness, hitherto undisturbed
+by the presence of mortal man, as we bade adieu to
+our fellow-travellers, the echoes from which had
+scarce died away before their forms vanished from
+our view in the thick driving snow that shrouded in
+obscurity the surrounding objects.</p>
+
+<p>It was, however, no time for reflection; for now all
+our energies, both mental and physical, had to be
+devoted to the furtherance of the great work with
+which we were entrusted. The men resolutely seized
+their drag-ropes, and with light and willing hearts
+commenced their toilsome advance.</p>
+
+<p>In order to enable my readers to follow us during
+the time we were engaged in the sledging operations,
+I will endeavour to explain, as briefly as possible, the
+ordinary daily routine invariably carried out by those
+so employed belonging to the &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The cook for the day is an important personage,
+and his duties, as I have before related, are of a very
+onerous and trying description. Each individual
+composing the sledge crew has to perform this office
+in turn during twenty-four hours, and it is one that
+sorely taxes his patience and powers of endurance,
+especially in very cold weather. He gladly transfers
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page265" id="page265"></a>265</span>
+his functions as cook to his successor, happy in the
+assurance that his &ldquo;turn&rdquo; will not come round for
+another week, unless sickness or any other unforeseen
+event should prostrate any of his comrades.</p>
+
+<p>The cook&rsquo;s work commences at an early hour, when,
+after having lighted his lamp and converted sufficient
+ice or snow into water for the morning meal, he reenters
+the tent, and walking unconcernedly on the
+sleeping forms of his companions, proceeds deliberately
+to brush from the top and sides of the tent
+the condensed moisture that has been accumulating
+during the night, and which falls in minute frozen
+particles on the coverlet. This operation being concluded,
+to the no small relief of those over whom
+he has been walking, the coverlet is removed, well
+brushed, shaken, folded up, and placed on the sledge.
+He then busies himself with the important preparations
+for breakfast. In about two hours from the
+time that the cook is called, the cocoa is reported
+ready, when the rest of the party are awakened.</p>
+
+<p>If the weather is very cold, breakfast is discussed
+in our bags, in which we all sit up; a comical-looking
+lot in our grey skull-caps and duffel coats! The
+biscuit bag is then laid in the centre of the tent,
+spoons are produced, and the pannikins, each containing
+one pint of warm cocoa, are handed in. The
+only articles that were not considered as common
+property amongst us were our spoons. These were
+slightly larger than an ordinary table-spoon, were
+made of horn, and supplied to each sledger by a
+beneficent Government. We generally carried them
+slung round our necks by laniards, or in our pockets.</p>
+
+<p>The pannikins being emptied they are returned to
+the cook, who has in the mean time been preparing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page266" id="page266"></a>266</span>
+the pemmican. So hard is this article frozen that
+the portions for use have to be chipped off with a
+chopper before they can be put into the stew-pan.</p>
+
+<p>While the cook&rsquo;s anxiety is momentarily increased
+by the fear that his fuel will be consumed before the
+repast is prepared, and his fingers are alternately
+burnt and frost-bitten in his endeavours to trim and
+adjust the lamp, prayers are read to those inside, the
+foot gear is changed and the sleeping-bags rolled up.
+By the time this has been done, the pemmican is
+ready, passed in, and eaten. Orders are then given
+to strike tent, pack sledge, and prepare to march.</p>
+
+<p>The great secret in packing a sledge properly is
+to have the weights as nearly as possible in the centre&mdash;as
+far from the extremes as it is possible to get
+them, so that the sledge may rise easily over obstacles.
+When all is ready, the drag-ropes are manned, and
+with a &ldquo;one, two, three, haul,&rdquo; and a good pull
+altogether, the sledge is started and the march
+commenced.</p>
+
+<p>Care should be taken to scrape the pannikins out
+with a knife, before the refuse inside has time to
+freeze, otherwise it will be difficult to remove. Water
+for washing purposes, of any description, whilst
+sledging is quite out of the question. After marching
+for about five or six hours, a halt is called for lunch.
+This meal consists of four ounces of bacon, a little
+biscuit, and a warm pannikin of tea to each man.</p>
+
+<p>Although the most refreshing and enjoyable of all
+our meals, luncheon was, when there was much wind,
+or the weather intensely cold, a very trying one. The
+halt is of necessity long. Frequently an hour or an
+hour and a half elapses before the tea is reported
+ready, during which time the men are compelled to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page267" id="page267"></a>267</span>
+keep constantly on the move to avoid frost-bites.
+When there is much wind the tent is pitched; but
+this adds little to our comfort, for it is too cold to
+remain inside for any length of time. If we were
+not all suffering from the same cause, we should be
+disposed to laugh at the strange antics of our companions
+in their efforts to keep their feet from getting
+frost-bitten. One man is &ldquo;marking time&rdquo; at the
+double; another jumping up and down in a frantic
+manner; another is sitting down cross-legged like
+a Turk, or a tailor, and is occupied in belabouring
+his feet with his mittened hands, in his energetic
+endeavours to restore circulation; whilst another,
+unable any longer to endure the cold, commences
+furiously to kick the sledge, or a hummock, with both
+feet like one bereft of his senses. Although halted,
+little rest is enjoyed; anxiously is the kettle watched,
+and many are the tender inquiries concerning the
+state of the water inside. &ldquo;Does it boil?&rdquo; is a
+question frequently asked, and unless the cook is
+blessed with an amiable disposition, the perversity
+of the kettle is sufficient, at times, to drive him
+almost distracted. The old saw, &ldquo;A watched pot
+never boils,&rdquo; is fully exemplified. At length, to the
+relief and delight of all, the announcement is made
+that the tea is ready, when all troubles are forgotten
+in the pleasure and enjoyment of a warm pannikin
+of tea. Sometimes little difficulties would arise in
+consequence of the haste with which it was necessary
+to prepare and discuss this meal. These, although
+serious at the time, served afterwards to amuse, and
+were soon forgotten. On one occasion, the water
+having been boiled, and the cook having, as he
+thought, carefully added the tea and sugar, which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page268" id="page268"></a>268</span>
+were as carefully stirred up, the allowance of tea was
+served out and eagerly drunk by the wearied sledgers,
+who were only too glad and thankful to receive anything
+warm. It was not until some time after the
+allowance had been consumed that the cook discovered
+he had omitted to put in the <i>tea</i>, and had served out
+simply a decoction of warm water and brown sugar!
+Sometimes the tea was made from salt-water ice, the
+cook having inadvertently mixed it before tasting the
+water! In such a case we had either to drink it, or
+get none at all!</p>
+
+<p>Our bacon was, as a rule, frozen so hard as to be
+like a piece of granite, and it was only by thawing it
+in our warm tea that it became eatable. This had
+the effect of converting our tea into a sort of soup!</p>
+
+<p>The time of halting for the night varied considerably;
+but it was generally after ten, eleven, and
+sometimes twelve hours&rsquo; steady marching. The first
+thing to be done is to select a suitable site as level as
+possible and where the snow is not too deep, for
+pitching the tent, which should be carefully banked
+up outside with snow to the height of two or three
+feet. Every one assists in this work except the cook,
+who is busily engaged in the necessary preparations
+for the evening meal. As soon as the tent is ready,
+the men enter, change their foot gear, and struggle
+into their half-frozen bags, their toes and feet having
+previously been examined by the officer for the detection
+of frost-bites. If a frost-bite is discovered,
+circulation is immediately restored, and the injured
+part dressed by the application of a little glycerine
+ointment and some lint.</p>
+
+<p>As a rule the moccasins, hose, and blanket wrappers
+are so firmly frozen together that they are with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page269" id="page269"></a>269</span>
+difficulty separated, and are taken off the feet as <i>one</i>
+article of clothing. It is amusing to witness the
+frantic exertions made by some of the men in their
+efforts to struggle into their duffel coats. They are
+frozen so stiff and hard that this operation is always
+an intensely aggravating one, and even when it is
+accomplished, the men are utterly helpless until the
+warmth from their bodies has partially thawed the
+coats and rendered them supple. They were, with a
+very great deal of truth, likened to &ldquo;strait-jackets.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:790px; height:719px" src="images/img295.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">GETTING READY TO &ldquo;BAG.&rdquo;</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>By the time that the whole party are comfortably
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page270" id="page270"></a>270</span>
+settled in their bags, supper, consisting of tea and
+pemmican, is ready and served; after which pipes are
+lighted, conversation ensues, and the allowance of
+grog is served out. This is undoubtedly the most
+delightful and happiest part of the day&rsquo;s proceedings,
+and I should deprecate very strongly any attempts
+to deprive the poor Arctic sledger of his small modicum
+of rum and water, provided it was always issued at
+the same time as ours, and <i>never</i> during the fatigue
+and exertions of the day. The quantity is so small
+that the most fanatical theorist cannot seriously
+maintain that it can do harm. But experience proves
+that it tends very materially to cheer and invigorate
+the men during the short time that they can really
+call their own in the whole twenty-four hours, and
+it certainly imparts a glow which induces sleep&mdash;a
+very important effect of its use. Sometimes singing
+will be the order of the day, or rather evening, or
+perhaps a book will be read aloud; but whatever
+amusement is resorted to for the purpose of thoroughly
+enjoying the half-hour after supper, whether it is
+singing, reading, or yarning, all are cheerful, contented,
+and happy.</p>
+
+<p>Home is, of course, a great topic of conversation,
+and what each man intends doing on his return to
+England is freely discussed. We know all about
+each other, and frequently detect ourselves confiding
+secrets that we should under ordinary circumstances
+divulge only to our bosom friends. Sometimes a hot
+argument is maintained between two men belonging
+to different counties on the relative merits of the pigs
+of their own counties and their manner of feeding;
+or perhaps they will get into a discussion on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page271" id="page271"></a>271</span>
+liberality of large landed proprietors near whom they
+may be living. For instance, one man who lived in
+Devonshire was extolling Lord Mount Edgcumbe.
+&ldquo;Ah! he was a noble lord! he opened his grounds
+once a week for the admission of the public.&rdquo; But
+another man, hailing from Lancashire, answered by
+saying, &ldquo;He didn&rsquo;t see that he was any better than
+any other lord; for,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;Lord Derby admitted
+the public into his park every day, and if it was
+raining he would send his carriage for you!&rdquo; This
+argument, although I fear not strictly correct, was
+unanswerable, and the west countryman had to give
+in to the more liberal experiences of his friend.</p>
+
+<p>Before composing ourselves to sleep, the cook,
+having made the necessary preparations for the
+morning&rsquo;s meal, passes in our coverlet. This is
+always the last thing done before closing the door
+of the tent for the night.</p>
+
+<p>How is it possible to describe what this coverlet
+is like when handed in? Those who have never been
+initiated into the mysteries of Arctic sledge life would
+be unable to realize what it resembles when unpacked
+from the sledge. It is more like a piece of wood or
+sheet-iron than an article of woollen material. With
+the utmost difficulty it is unfolded; but as for spreading,
+that is quite out of the question: it stands up in
+the centre like a second tent, and refuses to lie flat,
+in spite of the beating with which it is assailed. It
+is only after it has been some time in this position
+that it gradually thaws, when it becomes a &ldquo;wet
+blanket&rdquo; indeed!</p>
+
+<p>The contents of this chapter may give some idea of
+the ordinary routine of a sledge traveller&rsquo;s life. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page272" id="page272"></a>272</span>
+details were invariably carried out by the different
+sledge parties despatched from the &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo; In the
+succeeding chapter we will follow the fortunes of the
+northern division, and I shall endeavour to depict
+briefly the difficulties it had to contend with, and the
+manner in which they were surmounted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page273" id="page273"></a>273</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XXII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE NORTHERN DIVISION&mdash;TRAVELLING IN APRIL.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways,</p>
+<p class="i05">Draw out our miles and make them wearisome;</p>
+<p class="i05">And yet your fair discourse hath been as sugar,</p>
+<p class="i05">Making the hard way sweet and delectable....</p>
+<p class="i05">But I bethink me, what a weary way!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><i>Richard II.</i></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> different sledge parties having branched off, as
+related in the preceding chapter, I must request my
+readers to follow the fortunes of the northern division,
+which was under my command.</p>
+
+<p>The serious obstacles that so persistently impeded
+our progress were immediately encountered. The
+retreating forms of our comrades, who had assisted
+us thus far, were scarcely out of sight before we were
+busily engaged in constructing a road along which to
+drag our sledges. These roads were rendered necessary
+in consequence of the rugged nature of the ice
+over which we had to travel, the floes being of the
+smallest dimensions as regarded superficial area, and
+surrounded by broad fringes of squeezed-up hummocks.
+The hummocks proved most formidable impediments
+to our advance. No sooner had we congratulated
+ourselves upon successfully accomplishing
+a passage through one line of these obstacles, than
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page274" id="page274"></a>274</span>
+another, and perhaps a more ragged and apparently
+impassable hedge, appeared in front of us. It seemed
+as if a terrible conflict had been fought between these
+ponderous masses of ice, which had so shattered and
+split them up as to suggest to us the idea that they
+resembled a tempestuous broken sea suddenly frozen.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:765px; height:1302px" src="images/img300.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page275" id="page275"></a>275</span></p>
+
+<p>To make any advance at all, pickaxes and shovels
+were in constant requisition, and with these implements
+we succeeded in hewing and cutting a road for
+our sledges, by which we were able to make a snail-like
+progress. The roughness of the road was not
+our only difficulty. Around and about the hummocks
+the snow had drifted to such a depth that the men
+were frequently floundering in it up to their waists,
+and passages through this had to be cleared with
+shovels before the sledges could be dragged on. Occasionally
+the sledges would have to be unpacked and
+lightened considerably before they could be dragged
+through this deep soft snow.</p>
+
+<p>We, at first, attempted to console ourselves with
+the idea that this irregular and broken sea of ice was
+only caused by our proximity to the land; and that
+we should, as we advanced in a northerly direction,
+meet with smooth level floes, on which we should be
+able to travel along merrily, and so make up for the
+time expended in struggling through the hummocks.</p>
+
+<p>How delusive proved our hopes and anticipations
+the sequel will show! The belts of hummocks that
+separated the floes varied from twenty yards to half a
+mile in breadth, and were from fifteen to fifty feet in
+height.</p>
+
+<p>Road-making, as we called it, was a work of daily,
+I may say of constant, occurrence. We regarded our
+pickaxes with great affection, and they were consequently
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page276" id="page276"></a>276</span>
+treated with the utmost tenderness and care.
+Any mishap to them would have been indeed a serious
+misfortune, as we should have nothing to supply their
+place, and would therefore have been in a predicament
+in which we could neither advance nor return.
+The anxiety with which they were watched may
+therefore be imagined.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of giving simply a brief <i>résumé</i> of our
+sledging life, it will, I think, be more interesting to
+follow the sledge parties day by day in their arduous
+march to the northward, and their still more irksome
+and wearisome return journey. To do this, it will be
+as well to extract portions from my daily journal,
+avoiding repetition as much as possible, and commencing
+on the day after that on which we were left
+by our supporting sledges to prosecute our undertaking.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 12th.</i>&mdash;A most gratifying and unexpected
+change of weather enabled us to pass a comparatively
+comfortable night, the temperature inside our tent
+being as high as +16°. Hitherto it has stood at,
+and generally far below, zero. With the thermometer
+in the air registering a few degrees below zero, it is
+just possible to keep ourselves warm enough inside
+our tents to sleep; but with a temperature ranging
+from -35° downwards sleep is almost out of the
+question.</p>
+
+<p>In order to keep the sun as much as possible at our
+backs during the time we were on the march, we
+adopted the system of travelling, whilst on our outward
+journey, between noon and midnight. The
+cooks were, as a rule, called at about half-past nine
+in the forenoon, and the sledges were generally on the
+move about half-past eleven. This time of travelling
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page277" id="page277"></a>277</span>
+was selected more with a view to the prevention of
+snow blindness than anything else.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast the road-makers, six in number,
+were advanced for the purpose of constructing a road
+through an ugly fringe of hummocks on the southern
+side of which our camp had been pitched; the rest
+of the party being employed in striking the tents,
+packing and bringing on the sledges, one by one, as
+far as the road was practicable. Being a bright sunny
+day the tent robes and other gear were triced up to
+the boats&rsquo; masts and yards to dry. The sun was
+powerful enough to extract the moisture from the
+woollen substance, which would freeze, forming a
+sort of hoar-frost that could with ease be brushed or
+shaken off.</p>
+
+<p>On these bright clear days, the snow on the surface
+of the floes over which we were journeying was so
+highly crystallized that it sparkled and glittered with
+the most brilliant iridescent colours. The ground
+upon which we trod appeared to be strewn with bright
+and lustrous gems, of which the most prominent were
+diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. It was
+indeed a fairy-like scene; but our duties were too
+matter of fact to admit of our indulging for any time
+in romance or sentiment.</p>
+
+<p>A glance at our comrades would quickly recall us
+to the reality of our situation. Their dirty and rough-clad
+forms were strangely at variance with the scene
+of enchantment that might be conjured up. With
+faces scarified by the combined action of sun and
+frost, and black with smoke, with the tips of their
+fingers senseless from repeated frost-bites, with sore
+shoulders and aching limbs, the wearied sledgers
+pursued their way, not altogether indifferent to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page278" id="page278"></a>278</span>
+beauties that surrounded them, but careless of the
+difficulties and discomforts they encountered.</p>
+
+<p>During the afternoon, being about three miles from
+the nearest land, we observed, to our surprise, the
+fresh traces on the snow of a little lemming! It is
+hard to tell what inducement this little animal could
+have had for straying so far away from the land, and
+consequently from its means of obtaining the wherewithal
+to support life!</p>
+
+<p>We passed through a dense mass of hummocks,
+emerging, eventually, on a heavy floe of &ldquo;ancient
+lineage,&rdquo; whose surface was undulating, and adorned
+with veritable &ldquo;ice-mountains&rdquo; some twenty feet in
+height. These were generally of a rounded form and
+of a smooth surface, and appeared to be the result of
+long and continuous snow-drift. We camped on the
+northern edge of the floe, the men being employed in
+cutting a road through the hummocks whilst supper
+was preparing, in readiness for our start on the
+morrow.</p>
+
+<p>A journey through, and over, hummocks is the
+most unsatisfactory kind of travelling that can possibly
+be imagined. &ldquo;Standing pulls&rdquo; must be the
+order of the day, and the incessant &ldquo;one, two, three,
+haul&rdquo; is constantly heard. The trudging backwards
+and forwards to drag the different sledges to the front
+along the same road is decidedly monotonous; but
+this had no effect on the cheerfulness and general
+good spirits of the men, who were all actuated by the
+same zealous desire to do their best. The temperature
+all day had been delightful, ranging from 8° to
+20° below zero.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 13th.</i>&mdash;A dull, cloudy day, with the sun
+shining at intervals, and the temperature as low at
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page279" id="page279"></a>279</span>
+one time as -33°. We cut a road and dragged the
+sledges through a fringe of hummocks about two
+hundred yards in breadth, then crossed a fine large
+floe that afforded us capital travelling for nearly a
+mile in a northerly direction, then through another
+long fringe of large and troublesome hummocks, until
+we were completely brought to a standstill by a mass
+of enormous fragments of ice, piled up in an irregular
+form to the height of from twenty to thirty feet.
+Through this obstacle we resolved to cut a road: in
+fact, no other alternative offered. It was a long and
+tedious job; but with such a hearty good will did the
+men work that we had the satisfaction of dragging our
+sledges over a very rough road and encamping for the
+night with the difficulties in our rear. Parr with pickaxe
+and shovel was a first-rate &ldquo;navvy,&rdquo; and worked
+like a horse.</p>
+
+<p>Our routine was for one or other of us to select the
+best route through the hummocks. This being done,
+one, with a gang of road-makers, proceeded to construct
+the road, whilst the other, with the remainder
+of the party, dragged the sledges on one by one.
+Great care had to be taken that our boats, on the
+exceedingly rough road over which they were dragged,
+did not sustain any injury. Sometimes it was a very
+delicate matter, and one that required skilful handling,
+after the sledges had been hauled up to the top
+of the hummocks, to lower them down in safety on
+the opposite side. The ease and facility with which
+the ice yielded to the dexterous blows of the pickaxes,
+wielded by strong and determined men, was almost
+incredible. Apparently impenetrable masses of ice
+vanished before their efforts, and left a fairly good
+road by which we advanced.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page280" id="page280"></a>280</span></p>
+
+<p><i>April 14th.</i>&mdash;Last night our sleeping-bags were
+frozen so hard that it was with great difficulty we
+succeeded in getting into them. Even when this was
+accomplished, the warmth we derived from them was
+inappreciable, and we felt more as if we were confined
+in a wooden box or coffin than in a woollen bag! My
+blanket wrappers, although I laid on them all night,
+were so stiff this morning that I had the utmost
+difficulty in bending them over my feet! Being Good
+Friday, our prayers in the morning were of longer
+duration than usual.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:791px; height:585px" src="images/img306.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">INTERIOR OF TENT.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Crossed an old floe having a hard incrustation on
+its surface&mdash;not sufficiently strong, however, to bear
+the weight either of the men or the sledges; consequently
+at every step we broke through, and would
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page281" id="page281"></a>281</span>
+then sink deeply into soft snow. This was not only
+very laborious but very aggravating work.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:777px; height:557px" src="images/img307.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">A PACKED SLEDGE.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>On portions of the road, where these patches of
+level soft snow occurred, the flat-bottomed taboggans,
+used in the Hudson Bay Company&rsquo;s territory, would
+be suitable. But the greater part of the road was
+over heavy broken-up hummocks and hard fragments
+of ice, lying at all kinds of angles; on the whole we
+found the eight-men high-runner sledge which we
+used, and which was originally designed by Sir
+Leopold McClintock, infinitely preferable. Long experience
+has conclusively proved its excellence. It
+was the kind of sledge with which the North West
+Passage was discovered and the Parry Islands explored,
+and with us it once more did most admirable
+service in many directions, and over the roughest
+ground imaginable.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page282" id="page282"></a>282</span></p>
+
+<p>The temperature was too low to allow us to stop
+for the purpose of obtaining a meridian altitude,
+which we invariably get at noon. There was an unpleasant
+nipping breeze from the northward; our
+faces, more especially our noses, being &ldquo;touched up&rdquo;
+constantly by Jack Frost.</p>
+
+<p>The floes off Cape Joseph Henry, although actually
+smaller than most of those we have crossed, were far
+more heavy. In all probability they are reduced in
+size by great and continual pressure off the cape.
+The wind freshening, and the weather becoming
+very thick, we halted an hour earlier than we otherwise
+would have done.</p>
+
+<p>John Shirley, one of my sledge crew, complained of
+pains in his ankles and knees. On examination they
+appeared slightly swollen, and I treated him according
+to the instructions laid down for the guidance of the
+sledging officers by our doctor.</p>
+
+<p>Although at the time ignorant of the fact, this was
+the first appearance of that dreadful disease, scurvy,
+which shortly afterwards laid its destroying hand
+upon us, and reduced us to such a helpless and prostrate
+state. From this day we were deprived of the
+services of Shirley, who gradually but surely got
+worse, and was never again able to render the
+slightest assistance even in the most minute details
+of our routine.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 15th.</i>&mdash;A N.W. gale, with an exceedingly low
+temperature, and an impervious snow-drift, rendered
+travelling quite out of the question.</p>
+
+<p>Extreme wretchedness, I might almost say abject
+misery, was our lot to-day.</p>
+
+<p>We appeared to receive little benefit, in the way
+of warmth, from our tent robes, and the temperature
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page283" id="page283"></a>283</span>
+inside our tent, with our whole party huddled close
+together, was 22° below zero! Gladly would we have
+pushed on had it been possible. A hard day&rsquo;s work,
+even amongst the most impenetrable hummocks,
+would have been infinitely preferable to our present
+forced detention and inactivity. Unable to stir outside
+the tent, on account of the blinding snow-drift
+that was whirling around, too cold to read or even to
+sit up in one&rsquo;s bag for the sake of conversation, tent
+robes and bags frozen hard&mdash;a combination of these
+evils renders the position of those who suffer from
+them an unenviable one indeed. It is a remarkable
+fact that we this day experienced a lower temperature
+during a gale of wind than we did during the whole
+winter at the &ldquo;Alert&rsquo;s&rdquo; winter quarters. This appears
+to point conclusively to the fact that there can
+be no large body of water either to the northward or
+westward of us.</p>
+
+<p>The thermometer invariably rose during the
+southerly gales experienced in the winter, and this
+was very naturally attributed to the wind blowing
+across a large expanse of open water.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 16th.</i>&mdash;Easter Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>The gale, although it had moderated, was still
+blowing too fiercely to allow us to proceed. We were
+therefore compelled, sorely against our inclination,
+to remain encamped. We unanimously came to the
+conclusion that this was by far the most wretched and
+miserable Easter Sunday that we had ever spent.
+Forty-eight hours in a gale of wind, tied up in a bag
+off the most northern known land, with a temperature
+67° below freezing point, is certainly not the most
+pleasant manner that any one would select for passing
+an Easter Sunday!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page284" id="page284"></a>284</span></p>
+
+<p>For forty hours I did not have the slightest feeling
+in my feet, and could not really declare that I was in
+possession of those useful members&mdash;as for sleep,
+under the circumstances, that was quite out of the
+question. In spite of the cold and dismal surroundings,
+we did not neglect last evening the usual
+Saturday night&rsquo;s toast, on receipt of our small allowance
+of grog. It most decidedly had the effect of
+cheering us up considerably, and for the time assisted
+in making us forget the discomfort of our position.
+At half-past four in the afternoon, the wind having
+subsided, it was determined to make a move. We
+felt that anything was preferable to the tedium and
+dreariness of our compulsory detention. The tents
+were accordingly struck, sledges packed, and the
+march renewed. Shirley, being unable to walk, was
+placed in his sleeping-bag, rolled up in the tent robes,
+and tied securely on one of the sledges. This seriously
+added to the weight to be dragged, whilst it also reduced
+our motive power; however, we hoped that by
+thus giving him complete rest, he would the more
+rapidly recover and resume his place on the drag-ropes.</p>
+
+<p>Alas! how little did we think that the fearful and
+wasting disease, the premonitory symptoms of which
+were now exhibited, would insidiously steal its way
+amongst us, and assailing the party one by one
+reduce us so disastrously as to bring us to the verge
+of destruction!</p>
+
+<p>We cut our way through a hedge of hummocks
+about one-third of a mile in breadth, and then on
+to a floe apparently of great thickness; but, unfortunately
+for us, not more than three hundred yards
+across. Between these stupendous floes we would occasionally
+meet with some young ice amongst the hummocks
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page285" id="page285"></a>285</span>
+which, when it trended in the right direction,
+would afford us easy travelling; but these leads were
+never of any extent.</p>
+
+<p>The gale had accumulated the snow in deep drifts,
+which rendered the task of dragging the sledges
+harder than ever. Our progress was necessarily slow.
+We halted and encamped at half-past ten. The men
+appeared to be more easily fatigued after lying so
+long idle in their bags than if they had performed a
+hard day&rsquo;s work. Our camp this evening was pitched
+almost abreast of Cape Joseph Henry, though some
+miles off it.</p>
+
+<p>When viewed from seaward, or more correctly
+speaking, &ldquo;iceward,&rdquo; this headland presents a bold
+and rugged appearance, rising nearly perpendicular
+from base to summit, to a height of about eight
+hundred feet, whence the land recedes, gradually
+ascending until it culminates in a peak about three
+or four hundred feet higher. It appears to be of
+limestone formation, with regular stratifications dipping
+to the southward at an angle of 6° to 10° from
+the horizontal. The Cape itself terminates in a knife-like
+edge from summit to base, in shape very much
+resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad. Conical
+Hill, situated immediately to the southward of Cape
+Joseph Henry, when observed on the same bearing,
+presents more the form of a hog&rsquo;s back than a cone,
+but possesses the same bold, rugged aspect. It is
+about the same height as the peak surmounting Cape
+Joseph Henry, and is of the same formation; but,
+unlike its neighbour, the strata dip to the southward
+at an angle of about 6° or 10° from the vertical, giving
+it altogether a rather distorted appearance. There is
+a great deal of similarity in the surrounding hills, all
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page286" id="page286"></a>286</span>
+being more or less coniform, and of an altitude of
+from one to two thousand feet.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 17th.</i>&mdash;Shirley no better this morning, and
+to add to our troubles, George Porter, one of Parr&rsquo;s
+sledge crew, was also suffering in the same manner
+from swollen and puffy knee joints.</p>
+
+<p>Two men <i>hors de combat</i> out of our little force
+diminishes our strength very materially, and as they
+have both to be carried on the sledges it adds
+seriously to the weights to be dragged. The morning
+was bright and sunny, with a temperature as high as
+24° below zero, so we congratulated ourselves that it
+was now really on the turn, and that we should no
+longer encounter any more extreme cold. The men
+take kindly to their snow-goggles, and never attempt
+to take them off whilst on the march&mdash;perhaps my
+expatiating largely on the excruciating agony and
+acute pain inseparable from snow blindness, is in
+some way connected with their submissiveness in
+this respect! Alfred Pearce was, yesterday, rather
+severely frost-bitten on one of his fingers; but circulation
+was rapidly restored, and to-day, with the
+exception of a little soreness, he suffers no ill effects
+from it. The travelling to-day was nearly a repetition
+of what we had hitherto been encountering: large
+masses of ice thickly compacted together, squeezed
+up into every conceivable, but indescribable, shape
+and form to a height of about twenty-five feet; but
+these had to succumb to the strenuous exertions of
+Parr and his indefatigable road-makers.</p>
+
+<p>Energy and perseverance performed wonders. The
+men worked uncommonly well&mdash;my only fear was that
+they would overtax their strength. Poor fellows!
+they get little rest during the day, for even when we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page287" id="page287"></a>287</span>
+halt for lunch, they are compelled to be continually
+on the move to keep their blood in circulation. To
+sit or lie down for any length of time would be fatal.
+No wonder, then, they are fatigued at the end of the
+day&rsquo;s work.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the floes over which we travelled to-day
+were of greater thickness than others, and it was no
+unfrequent occurrence for us to drop a height of six
+or seven feet from the top of one floe to the surface of
+another; or, <i>vice versâ</i>, to have to haul the sledges up
+the same height. This was no easy work with our
+heavily laden sledges and boats. Snow commenced
+falling at 3 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>, and continued all night.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 18th.</i>&mdash;The old story last night with our
+sleeping-bags! So hard were they frozen that it
+occupied us a considerable time before we could
+struggle into them. The night, however, was not
+so cold, and we succeeded in sleeping pretty comfortably.
+Before starting this morning we lightened our
+heavy sledge by making a redistribution of the weights
+on all three sledges. By these means we hoped to be
+able to get on a little better.</p>
+
+<p>We found the helmet worsted caps that were so
+kindly given to us by the Empress very warm and
+comfortable for sleeping in. They are much appreciated
+by the men, who call them &ldquo;Eugenies,&rdquo; and
+they constantly refer with gratitude to her Majesty&rsquo;s
+kind and thoughtful present.</p>
+
+<p>The travelling to-day was excessively heavy, in
+consequence of the unevenness of the floes and the
+deep soft snow with which they were covered. After
+lunch we arrived at and crossed some &ldquo;veritable
+palæocrystic floes&rdquo;&mdash;apparently of gigantic thickness,
+and studded with numerous rounded snow hillocks;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page288" id="page288"></a>288</span>
+the height of some of the latter being as much as
+thirty feet above the surface of the floe. In crossing
+one of these, the &ldquo;Victoria&rdquo; sledge capsized, but was
+soon righted without damaging either the sledge or the
+boat, or injuring the invalid who was lashed on top,
+and who received only a slight shaking. As we proceeded
+northwards we opened out the land to the
+westward, and a large bay which has since been called
+Clements Markham Inlet. A S.E. breeze sprang up
+in the evening shortly before we halted, which,
+strange to say, sent the temperature down rapidly
+to -33°, and we had, in consequence, to be cautious
+about frost-bites.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 19th.</i>&mdash;A fine clear day. Our bags last night
+were rendered a little more habitable by having been
+exposed during the day to the heat of the sun, which
+was sufficiently powerful to extract the greater part of
+the moisture which had been absorbed by them. Our
+plan is on fine days to suspend as much as we possibly
+can from the masts and yards of the boats, and
+to spread the gear out over the sledges, so that it
+may dry as we travel along. This answers admirably
+and enables us to pass more comfortable nights.</p>
+
+<p>After toiling hard for three and a half hours,
+during which time we had advanced the sledges
+barely a quarter of a mile, I came to the determination
+to abandon our largest boat. It was
+heart-breaking to witness the men slaving in their
+endeavours to drag on the heavy sledge and boat&mdash;to
+see the continual standing pulls, the incessant
+&ldquo;one, two, three, haul,&rdquo; and no result.</p>
+
+<p>I did not arrive at this decision until after very
+mature deliberation. My conviction was that amongst
+such ice as that over which we were travelling, should
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page289" id="page289"></a>289</span>
+a disruption occur, our boats would be of little service
+to us, except as a means of ferrying from one floe
+to another. For this purpose I retain the smaller
+boat.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the boat in as conspicuous a position as
+possible, with her mast stepped and yard triced up,
+and having obtained a round of angles in order to fix
+her position, so as to facilitate our finding her on the
+return journey, the march was resumed, every one
+well pleased at being rid of the incubus, as the large
+boat was always regarded. We travelled over deep
+and uneven snow ridges, and experienced great difficulty
+in getting from one floe to another, on account
+of the perpendicular drop. Before halting we got
+on to some young ice amongst the hummocks, along
+which we rattled gaily, actually performing a distance
+of about half a mile in something like two hours!
+This is good work for us. It must be remembered
+that we have to advance <i>three</i> sledges, and to do this
+we have to walk over the same road five times!</p>
+
+<p>If our invalids would only show some symptoms of
+improvement we should have more hope of reaching a
+higher latitude; but at present they compensate in
+weight and loss of power for the abandonment of the
+boat. I regard each man carried as about 200 lbs.
+extra weight, and the loss of their services on the
+drag-ropes is about equal to another 200 lbs. weight
+to be added&mdash;therefore the two invalids reckon as
+much as 800 lbs., exactly equivalent to the weight of
+the deserted boat! So long as they remain ill, we
+gain nothing upon the actual weights dragged before
+their sickness commenced. Instead of their getting
+better, we have the prospect of an increased sick list,
+for this evening Alfred Pearce was compelled to fall
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page290" id="page290"></a>290</span>
+out from the drag-ropes, suffering from a badly
+swollen ankle, and exhibiting in fact the same symptoms
+as the other men.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 20th.</i>&mdash;This morning we were unable to make
+a start in consequence of the thickness of the weather.
+Snow was falling slightly, but the fog was so dense
+that it was impossible to see the length of the sledge
+ahead. As I had brought with me one of Dickens&rsquo;s
+works, &ldquo;The Old Curiosity Shop,&rdquo; I read aloud to the
+men, who were much interested in the story.</p>
+
+<p>By 2 <span class="scs">P.M.</span>, the weather having cleared slightly, we
+determined to push on and find our way through the
+fog and hummocks as best we could. The snow was
+very deep and the hummocks appeared to be interminable.
+The task of selecting a road was by no means
+easy&mdash;nothing to be seen but hummocks in every
+direction. At eight o&rsquo;clock, the fog lifting a little, we
+succeeded in extricating ourselves from our difficulties,
+and crossing a large heavy floe got on to a lead
+of young ice which gave us good travelling. Although
+this young ice enabled us to travel quicker, and rendered
+the work of dragging easier, still I was sorry to
+see it, as I was rather apprehensive that the pack
+might break up earlier than we anticipated, and so
+place us in an exceedingly awkward predicament.
+We halted and camped at half-past ten, having (considering
+the lateness of our start) performed a fair
+day&rsquo;s work.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 21st.</i>&mdash;A keen piercing wind from the northward.
+Travelling much the same. Although the
+temperature was only 17° below zero, the cold was
+more intense than we had yet felt it since leaving
+the ship. The wind seemed to cut us in two, and was
+the cause of numerous superficial frost-bites. One
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page291" id="page291"></a>291</span>
+man, Thomas Simpson, was rather severely frost-bitten
+in the big toe, which was, however, quickly
+attended to and brought round.</p>
+
+<p>Our greatest enemies, whilst crossing a floe of any
+extent, were the numberless cracks and fissures in the
+ice, radiating in all directions and treacherously concealed
+by a covering of snow. Into these we frequently
+fell, and as some of them were of great depth
+it seemed almost miraculous that we escaped without
+a fractured limb! These cracks must be produced
+either by enormous pressure or intense cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 22nd.</i>&mdash;The wind blew in heavy squalls last
+night, and continued fresh this morning; but as we
+all dreaded a longer detention in our tent we resolved
+to push on at all hazards.</p>
+
+<p>It was painful to witness the efforts of the poor
+fellows in their endeavours to protect their faces from
+the cold cutting wind as they plodded along, dragging
+the heavily laden sledges; but they seemed cheerful
+enough, and treated the numerous frost-bites that
+appeared on their cheeks as rather a good joke than
+anything else. The sun peeped out for a few
+moments during the afternoon; but a heavy mist
+hung over the land, entirely obscuring it from our
+view. The floes over which we travelled to-day
+were more level than any we had yet crossed, and
+infinitely larger; but as a set-off against this, we
+found the snow very deep, which rendered the dragging
+excessively laborious. Few hummocks adorned
+the edges of these floes. They appeared to have
+come into contact with each other in a most amicable
+manner, and then immediately united before any
+pressure could be exerted, so as to form the immense
+hedges of heaped-up masses of ice that have
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page292" id="page292"></a>292</span>
+hitherto been our great bugbear. One floe crossed
+to-day was estimated at about a mile and three-quarters
+in length, and about six miles in circumference.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 23rd.</i>&mdash;Progressing but slowly. The travelling
+was very heavy, through deep soft snow, and we
+were delayed considerably by being obliged to make
+roads over broad belts of heavy hummocks.</p>
+
+<p>We camped for the night on the verge of a floe,
+with enormous hummocks squeezed up together immediately
+in front. The prospect of advancing was
+not cheering! A S.E. breeze, springing up in the
+afternoon, sent the temperature down suddenly to
+-24°. Our invalids did not appear to be improving,
+and we were rather puzzled at some of their symptoms.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 24th.</i>&mdash;The greater part of the day was
+employed in cutting a road through a perfect sea
+of hummocks. They appeared to be interminable.
+From the highest we could see nothing like a floe,
+nothing but an uneven range of massive and shapeless
+blocks of ice. The road-making was very hard
+and <i>very</i> cold work, and the men had to be relieved
+pretty often with the tools.</p>
+
+<p>Skill is of more avail at this sort of work than
+brute force. A skilled workman will soon demolish
+a large hummock, on which a strong but inexperienced
+man is wasting all his energy and strength in fruitless
+blows.</p>
+
+<p>We had the satisfaction to-day of crossing the
+eighty-third parallel of latitude,<a name="fa1p" id="fa1p" href="#ft1p"><span class="sp">1</span></a> and of knowing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page293" id="page293"></a>293</span>
+that we were the first party of men that had ever
+reached such a high position. The wind to-day,
+although decidedly unpleasant, was of some service,
+for being from the southward we were able to make
+sail on our sledges and thus utilize the otherwise
+unwelcome breeze.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 25th.</i>&mdash;A beautiful day, but with a low
+temperature. A slight breeze from the eastward
+reminded us that we possessed noses. These latter
+appendages have been voted decided nuisances, and
+could easily be dispensed with whilst sledging! The
+travelling to-day was a slight improvement on our
+preceding day&rsquo;s work. Indeed at one time we were
+able to advance our two light sledges &ldquo;single banked,&rdquo;
+that is with their own individual crews, instead of
+employing both crews to drag on one sledge at a
+time; but this was only for a very short distance.
+The snow was very deep and of a tenacious consistency,
+clinging to the sledge runners and thereby
+seriously impeding our progress. So powerful were
+the rays of the sun this afternoon that my thermometer,
+when exposed to them, rose rapidly from -17°
+to -3°. At 6 <span class="scs">P.M.</span> I observed faint parhelia showing
+prismatic colours. We were delayed towards the end
+of the day by a broad belt of hummocks, through
+which a road had to be cut. The large hummocks
+passed to-day, although smooth and rounded on the
+top and on one side, were precipitous on the other
+and were fully thirty feet high. Some of them
+appeared like isolated fragments in the centre of a
+floe, and resembled the large grounded floe-bergs in
+the vicinity of the &ldquo;Alert&rsquo;s&rdquo; winter quarters. They
+were undoubtedly portions of the floe which had been
+broken off and squeezed up under irresistible pressure.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page294" id="page294"></a>294</span></p>
+
+<p><i>April 26th.</i>&mdash;Temperature to-day as high as -2°.
+For the first time, since we have been away, were
+we able thoroughly to enjoy our lunch. On account
+of the increased warmth, our bacon was more palateable,
+and we could throw our wearied forms on the
+soft snow and discuss our pint of tea without running
+the risk of having our toes frost-bitten. The sensation
+of possessing feet was a novel and delightful one.
+Several of the men have of late been attacked by
+violent bleedings of the nose; but this, in all probability,
+is due to the rise of temperature. No improvement
+in our travelling&mdash;still the same old
+story&mdash;hummocks and snow-drifts, snow-drifts and
+hummocks. So dense were the latter that, when
+we halted for the night, it really seemed as if we had
+arrived at &ldquo;the end of all things;&rdquo; for in front of
+us was an apparently impassable sea of hummocks
+extending north, east, and west as far as the range of
+vision. A dismal prospect, indeed! But we did not
+despair, and still hoped we might cut our way through
+these obstacles, and emerge upon floes along which
+we should have little difficulty in advancing.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 27th.</i>&mdash;A hard day&rsquo;s work! Road-makers
+incessantly employed, and the sledges &ldquo;double banked&rdquo;
+the whole day, progress being necessarily slow. Our
+invalids showed no signs of amendment, indeed two
+others exhibited symptoms of the same disease; for
+such it appears to be.</p>
+
+<p>Another great misfortune that happened was that
+both our shovels came to grief&mdash;the handles breaking
+off at the junction between the wood and iron. We,
+however, succeeded in &ldquo;fishing&rdquo; and thus rendering
+them serviceable. We should be in a sorry plight if
+any accident happened to our pickaxes as well as to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page295" id="page295"></a>295</span>
+our shovels. As an instance of the amount of walking
+we had to perform, I may mention that to-day I
+had, of necessity, to cross the same floe, on which the
+snow was knee-deep, no less than thirteen times,
+&ldquo;and didn&rsquo;t I hate that blackguard floe!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><i>April 28th.</i>&mdash;The temperature actually rose as high
+as +2°! This is the first day that we have registered
+the thermometer above zero! It is a decided improvement.</p>
+
+<p>Last night, inside my tent, the temperature was as
+high as 33°, and, in spite of a hard day&rsquo;s work, we
+were all busily employed, after supper was over, in
+some way or another. A couple were splicing lanyards
+in their drag-belts; one was tailoring; another
+repairing his moccasins; one was darning his mitts,
+and another patching up his stockings with an old
+blanket wrapper; whilst I was both reading aloud
+and dressing and bandaging my patients&rsquo; legs. All
+were smoking except myself. The effect in a small
+confined tent may be imagined!</p>
+
+<p>Two of the men, who are not tobacco smokers,
+smoked what they called &ldquo;herb&rdquo; tobacco, which diffused
+a rather pleasing aroma, and served to deaden
+the unpleasantness of the tobacco smoke. It is composed
+of various dried aromatic herbs, and is, I
+believe, recommended by the faculty for many disorders.</p>
+
+<p>The travelling was as bad as ever&mdash;through heavy
+hummocks and deep snow-drifts. We had the misfortune
+to capsize the sledge, on which was one of the
+invalids; but a slight delay was the only inconvenience
+caused. The weather in the afternoon
+became very thick, making it extremely difficult to
+select a route. Everything was of one uniform colour:
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page296" id="page296"></a>296</span>
+above, below, behind, and before; all was alike, and it
+was quite impossible to tell whether we were going up
+or down hill until a fall would inform us of the fact.
+To our great surprise, this evening, we came across
+the traces of a hare in the soft snow. They were
+apparently recent, and travelling in a southerly
+direction. The little creature was evidently very
+tired, as the footsteps appeared to be close together.
+Poor Pussy! it must have wandered out on the floe
+and lost itself, for we were quite seventeen miles from
+the nearest land. I have no doubt, if we had followed
+up the track, that we should have found the poor little
+animal lying dead or exhausted under some hummock,
+famished for want of food.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 29th.</i>&mdash;Small floes surrounded with high
+hummocks and covered with deep snow, were still
+encountered, with occasionally a short lead on some
+young ice that we sometimes met twining round
+the larger floes. It was difficult to account for the
+presence of so much young ice, and I can only suggest
+that, after the disruption in the summer, the
+pack remained some length of time in a quiescent
+state, and so allowed the young ice to form between
+the floes; for if once in motion, no ice of a single
+season&rsquo;s formation could withstand the tremendous
+pressure that would be exerted by these stupendous
+floes, but must inevitably be pulverized and
+broken up into small fragments. Our wretched
+cook last night made our tea and cooked our pemmican
+with the water obtained from salt-water ice.
+We all in consequence suffered from intense thirst,
+without being able to obtain anything to alleviate it.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 30th.</i>&mdash;After halting last night the wind
+freshened into a gale, the clouds thickened, and snow
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page297" id="page297"></a>297</span>
+began to fall heavily, and this continued all day without
+intermission, so much so that we were unable to
+make a start. It was impossible to see the length of
+the sledge ahead, and, surrounded as we were by
+hummocks, it would have been folly to have attempted
+a move. We consoled ourselves by saying that the
+rest would do us good, and that the invalids more
+especially would benefit by it.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1p" id="ft1p" href="#fa1p"><span class="fn">1</span></a> By the Act of Parliament (58 Geo. III. cap. xx.) passed in 1818,
+a reward of £1000 was assigned to any one who should cross the
+latitude of 83° N. But in 1828 this Act for the encouragement of
+Polar discovery was repealed by 9 Geo. IV. cap. lxvi.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page298" id="page298"></a>298</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XXIII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;And here on snows, where never human foot</p>
+<p class="i05">Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread</p>
+<p class="i05">And leave no traces, o&rsquo;er the savage sea,</p>
+<p class="i05">The glassy ocean of the mountain ice;</p>
+<p class="i05">We skim its rugged breakers, which put on</p>
+<p class="i05">The aspect of a tumbling tempest&rsquo;s foam</p>
+<p class="i05">Frozen in a moment.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i15 s"><span class="sc">Byron.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">May</span> <i>1st.</i>&mdash;A fine sunny morning ushered in the
+month of May, all the more appreciated in consequence
+of the enforced idleness of the preceding day.
+The bright sun had a wonderful effect upon us all.
+It seemed to cheer and invigorate our spirits, whilst
+it stimulated us to renewed exertions in our endeavours
+to reach as high a northern latitude as
+possible. Our invalids, however, were very faint and
+weak. They exhibited no favourable symptoms of
+improvement, and were a great clog and drawback to
+our progress. With our diminished crews we found
+it hard work to drag the sledges over the rough
+hummocky road, and through the deep soft snow-drifts
+that were constantly met. Road-making became
+a necessary part of the daily routine. Floes of any
+extent were rarely seen, and we had to thread our
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page299" id="page299"></a>299</span>
+way through a perfect labyrinth of piled-up masses of
+ice, with little or no prospect of its improving. It
+was a dreary and wild-looking scene: no living thing
+in sight but our own little party, no colour or object
+to relieve the eye; nothing but a chaotic and illimitable
+sea of ice. Sometimes a fog was observed gradually
+rolling itself towards us, like a large mantle, until we
+were completely enveloped in its dense folds; when,
+continuing its onward course, it would roll as rapidly
+away, leaving a bright luminous band stretching
+across the horizon in the direction whence it had
+come.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 2nd.</i>&mdash;Although we had been told that there
+was not the slightest chance of our being attacked
+with scurvy, still, from the utter prostration of our
+invalids, combined with other symptoms, we were
+almost inclined to believe that we were really afflicted
+with this dire and wasting disease. It was a terrible
+idea that forced itself upon us, and one that we were
+loath to indulge in; but we feared that the symptoms
+pointed unmistakeably to the fact that this fearful
+disease, so dreaded by the mariners of old, was
+gradually but surely laying its hand upon us, completely
+prostrating those it attacked and rendering
+them helpless from pain and exhaustion. Parr and
+myself spoke of it only when we were by ourselves,
+as we considered it of the utmost importance that the
+men should remain in ignorance as long as possible,
+and not even suspect the nature of the disease which
+had crippled so many of their number. Swollen
+joints and discolouration of the skin, attended with
+faintness and great weakness, were the principal
+symptoms. Great as were the natural difficulties
+which surrounded us, still, should our surmise be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page300" id="page300"></a>300</span>
+correct, we could not but regard this as the most
+formidable of all obstacles to our advance that could
+possibly be imagined. Our only hope was that the
+five men now afflicted might, through their habits or
+disposition, have been more prone to the attacks of
+this insidious disease, than the remainder of our
+party, who, we hoped, might escape scathless. We
+camped this evening amidst a pile of hummocks, after
+one of the hardest day&rsquo;s work we have yet performed.
+So rough was the road and so deep was the snow that
+the sledges could only be advanced by &ldquo;standing
+pulls.&rdquo; This was disheartening, for we had all been
+cherishing the hope that as we advanced northwards
+we should find larger and more level floes and less
+snow; the reverse, however, was the case. Several
+times did one or other of us disappear through deep
+rents in the floe, but we always succeeded in scrambling
+up again unhurt.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 3rd.</i>&mdash;A dull, dark, foggy day rendered it
+extremely difficult to select our road, and we were
+occasionally compelled to unload the sledges before
+they could be dragged through the deep soft snow-drifts
+which were continually met across our route,
+making the work all the more hard and distressing.
+The fog persistently hung over us all day; but was
+not sufficiently dense to retard our progress altogether,
+though it materially increased our labours and
+augmented our difficulties.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 4th.</i>&mdash;Everything appeared to combine against
+us: weather, snow ice, and sickness! In spite of
+these evils our tents were struck and a start made;
+but after advancing for half a mile, which took us
+exactly three and a half hours to accomplish, we
+arrived at such a confused heap of hummocks that,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page301" id="page301"></a>301</span>
+with the dense fog prevailing and the falling snow, it
+was impossible to make any headway. To persevere
+would have been imprudent. The tents were accordingly
+pitched, and we consoled ourselves by saying
+that the rest would be productive of much good to
+our sick companions, for even those that had to be
+carried on the sledges could get no rest whilst being
+dragged and jolted and sometimes capsized over the
+roughest road imaginable. After lunch, the weather
+clearing a little, we employed ourselves in cutting a
+road through an amorphous conglomeration of ice
+for quite three-quarters of a mile. The pack over
+which we were travelling appeared to consist of
+numerous small floes, the largest being barely one
+hundred yards across at its widest diameter, but the
+majority much smaller, and each of these floes was
+surrounded by a mass of hummocks piled up and
+lying one on top of the other to the height of twenty
+and thirty feet: the belts of hummocks being from
+thirty to forty yards in breadth.</p>
+
+<p>Observing one large hummock to be very much
+discoloured, we found, on approach, that this discolouration
+was caused by the adhesion of mud or
+clay, a line of which extended for some distance
+along the edge of the floe, and gave one the idea
+that it had rubbed against, or in some manner had
+come into contact with, the shore. Mud it undoubtedly
+was, and we bottled a quantity of it for
+the purpose of subjecting it to microscopic investigation
+when we should return on board. This was
+conclusive evidence that a periodical, if not an
+annual, disruption of the pack occurs, and that these
+floes, although now at such a distance from the land,
+had at some time or another been in very close
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page302" id="page302"></a>302</span>
+proximity. Moreover, this must have occurred at a
+recent date, otherwise the summer thaws and the
+autumn snow would have obliterated all such traces
+as those we had discovered.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 5th.</i>&mdash;The weather was still as thick as pea-soup!
+However, we were able to avail ourselves of
+the road that we had constructed yesterday, and
+moved our camp so far. To do this, although the
+road was fairly good and the distance only three-quarters
+of a mile, the time occupied was four and
+a half hours! The scene that surrounded our encampment
+was a dreary one indeed&mdash;a desolate,
+cold, and inhospitable scene: everything of the same
+uniform colour; no object to relieve the eye; no
+signs of life; nothing to break the stillness and
+solitude of this waste of snow and ice. Surely
+Shelley must have contemplated such a scene when
+he wrote the following lines:</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Those wastes of frozen billows that were hurled</p>
+<p class="i05">By everlasting snow-storms round the Poles,</p>
+<p class="i05">Where matters dared not vegetate nor live,</p>
+<p class="i05">But ceaseless frost round the vast solitude</p>
+<p class="i05">Bound the broad zone of stillness.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>It was a relief, indeed, to turn from such a scene,
+and rest the eye upon our little encampment, while
+listening to the cheerful voices of our men, as, oblivious
+to hardship and suffering, they sat &ldquo;yarning,&rdquo;
+in their tents, and relating to each other their adventures
+in other parts of the globe. To our great
+satisfaction and comfort the temperature was at, or
+about, zero all day, and for the first time, since leaving
+the ship, we were able to eat our bacon without
+in the first place thawing it in our tea!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page303" id="page303"></a>303</span></p>
+
+<p><i>May 6th.</i>&mdash;A fine, bright day; but the rest of
+yesterday had produced no beneficial results. Our
+invalids were gradually getting worse; even those
+who were apparently in good health complained of
+aching limbs, and exhibited some of the first symptoms
+of those who were already ailing. Four of the
+men had also been suffering for the last few days
+from snow blindness, though not in a severe form.
+A suger of lead lotion afforded them great relief, and
+acted as a cure. We had been so far extremely
+fortunate in our comparative exemption from this
+painful and irritating affliction. We must attribute
+our immunity from it to the constant use of our
+snow-goggles, which were never taken off until the
+time of &ldquo;bagging!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>In getting under weigh in the morning, and also
+when we are encamping, the sick men cause us
+no little delay; for they are perfectly helpless, and
+require assistance in every little detail connected
+with their dressing and undressing, being totally
+incapacitated from doing anything themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The travelling was very heavy. We appeared to
+have arrived at a perfect barrier of hummocks, with
+portions of large floes intermixed, all broken and
+squeezed up together and covered with deep snow.
+As far as reaching a high latitude was concerned, we
+might as well have turned back at once, for our
+advance must needs be slow; but it was not impossible
+that this sea of hummocks, with which we
+were contending, might be the limit of our rough
+road, and that if we could succeed in struggling
+through them for a few miles, we might emerge upon
+large and level floes on which we should be able to
+travel with greater ease and celerity. Possibly the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page304" id="page304"></a>304</span>
+rugged nature of the ice might be due to the junction
+of two tides, which, from the commotion produced,
+would create the obstacles that were impeding our
+progress. After halting for the night, a party of men
+were employed road-making whilst the tents were
+being pitched and supper preparing. All were very
+glad to get into their bags and rest after the fatigues
+of the day. A slight air from the S.E. sent the
+temperature down rapidly to 11° below zero. The
+minus quantities still prevailed.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 7th.</i>&mdash;We started this morning carrying three
+of our invalids; but before we had gone many yards
+it became painfully evident that the two others were
+quite unable to walk, although the gallant fellows
+struggled along manfully.</p>
+
+<p>Our only resource was to advance the sledges and
+then return with them empty to bring on the other
+disabled sufferers. We had now a third of our little
+band <i>hors de combat</i>, our strength was diminishing
+daily, and our weights on the sledges in consequence
+were increasing. The travelling appeared to be getting,
+if possible, worse; the hummocks were higher
+and the snow-drifts deeper. One of the former, on
+being measured by means of a lead line, was found
+to be, from the top of the floe to its summit, forty-three
+feet three inches.</p>
+
+<p>We halted earlier than usual, and, having constructed
+a pedestal for the magnetic instrument out
+of solid snow, obtained a series of observations for
+the inclination of the needle and for the total
+magnetic force.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 8th.</i>&mdash;We at length forced ourselves to believe
+that the disease from which our men were
+suffering was really scurvy. We issued to those who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page305" id="page305"></a>305</span>
+were afflicted daily allowances of lime-juice from the
+small stock that we brought away with us.</p>
+
+<p>But it was with the utmost difficulty that a small
+allowance for each could be thawed. The lime-juice
+was in two bottles. On putting one near the cooking
+apparatus to thaw, the bottle cracked and fell to
+pieces. At last I adopted the plan of placing the
+other bottle between my legs when in the sleeping-bag,
+and, after a long time, I succeeded in thawing
+a small quantity. But it is now known that this was
+of no use; for the state of the lime-juice used by
+Dr. Coppinger at Polaris Bay showed that the whole
+volume must be thawed and remixed before it can be
+used with any advantage. This can only be done in
+the warmer weather of June or July.</p>
+
+<p>The loss of appetite, depression of spirits, with
+other symptoms were, we thought, decidedly scorbutic,
+and we feared, without fresh meat and vegetables,
+that there was little chance of seeing the sick
+men on the drag-ropes again during the journey.
+Being a fine, bright day, the invalids were made to
+come out and bask in the sun, whilst the rest of the
+party, with pickaxes and shovels, were engaged in
+cutting a road through the hummocks. A double
+series of magnetic observations were obtained, together
+with sights for latitude, longitude, and variation
+of the compass. The hummocks amongst
+which our tents were pitched were of various heights
+and bulk, from small fragments of ice to huge piles
+over forty feet high. Some of them consisted of a
+number of small hummocks squeezed up into one
+large mass, whilst others were apparently the regular
+floe-bergs, and, although perhaps of greater bulk,
+were not quite so high.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page306" id="page306"></a>306</span></p>
+
+<p>Between these hummocks, and consequently along
+the only road where we could drag our sledges, the
+snow had accumulated in drifts to a great depth,
+and this, formed into ridges by the wind, rendered
+the travelling all the more difficult. Occasionally
+the tops of these ridges were frozen hard, and it was
+of no uncommon occurrence to step from deep snow,
+through which we were floundering up to our waists,
+on to a hard, frozen piece, or <i>vice versâ</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes these ridges were only partially frozen,
+or covered with a slight crust, just hard enough <i>not</i>
+to bear our weights, and this made it exceedingly
+disagreeable and laborious to travel over.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 9th.</i>&mdash;Another beautifully warm day, with the
+temperature only a degree or two below zero! It was
+impossible to remain idle on such a day, so we resolved
+to push on.</p>
+
+<p>Lightening two of the sledges of about half their
+loads, two of the sick men were placed on them, and
+these were dragged to the limit of the road made
+yesterday. Here the tent was pitched, the two
+invalids placed inside, the sledge unpacked and
+dragged back. In this manner we succeeded in
+advancing during the day a distance of about three-quarters
+of a mile; but so tortuous was our road,
+and so often had it to be traversed, that to accomplish
+this short distance we had to walk about seven
+miles, and this through very deep snow. Rawlings,
+Simpson, and Ferbrache were complaining of aching
+limbs, and their legs exhibited slight discolouration.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 10th.</i>&mdash;We advanced the sledges in the same
+manner as yesterday, accomplishing about the same
+distance; but so distressing was it to see the exertions
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page307" id="page307"></a>307</span>
+of the men in their endeavours to perform a good
+day&rsquo;s work, and so painful was it to witness the sufferings
+of the sick, that I very reluctantly came to the
+conclusion that our camp this evening must be our
+most northern one. With five of my little force disabled,
+and as many more showing decided scorbutic
+symptoms, it would have been imprudent to persevere
+farther, however much inclination might prompt such
+a proceeding. Besides, our provisions must be taken
+into consideration, and we had only thirty days left
+to take us back a distance that occupied us forty days
+to advance, so that our turning back became an
+imperative necessity. We might, I think, console
+ourselves with the knowledge that the motto engraved
+on my flagstaff, and which had been presented to me
+by my friend and former Captain, now Commodore
+A. H. Hoskins, had been fully carried out. It was
+happily chosen, and although the lines are expressed
+in the first personal pronoun they had reference to the
+whole party:</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;I dare do all that may become a man:</p>
+<p class="i05">Who dares do more is none.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>We felt that the absence of any greater success
+could not be attributed either to a lack of energy or
+of perseverence. It was, however, a bitter ending to
+all our aspirations, for which even the knowledge of
+being homeward bound failed to compensate. In justice
+to my brave companions I must say that no men
+could have done more under the same circumstances.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 11th.</i>&mdash;Having arrived at the determination
+of dragging the sledges no farther in a northerly
+direction, I deemed it desirable to try what good two
+days&rsquo; perfect rest would do for our invalids; and, as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page308" id="page308"></a>308</span>
+there were many useful observations to be taken in
+this high latitude, I determined to devote the two
+following days to obtaining them. As soon as breakfast
+was discussed, a snow pedestal was erected for
+the instrument for determining the magnetic force
+and inclination of the needle, a double series of
+observations being obtained. Sights were taken in
+order to fix our position both by latitude and longitude,
+and also for the variation of the compass.<a name="fa1q" id="fa1q" href="#ft1q"><span class="sp">1</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Some of the men were employed in cutting a hole
+through young ice that existed between the hummocks
+in order that we might obtain deep sea temperatures
+with a Casella&rsquo;s thermometer, which we
+had brought with us for the purpose.</p>
+
+<p>In three hours this work was accomplished, the
+ice being only sixty-four inches in thickness. On
+attempting to get soundings, to our great surprise we
+succeeded in finding bottom in seventy-one fathoms
+(four hundred and twenty-six feet).</p>
+
+<p>At this depth we managed to obtain, by various contrivances
+that were lowered down, a specimen of the
+bottom, which was carefully bottled, in order to be
+carried to the ship, there to undergo microscopic
+examination.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:897px; height:575px" src="images/img335.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Wishing to possess any specimens of animal life
+that might exist in this high latitude, a bread bag,
+filled with the scrapings of our pannikins and a little
+pemmican, was lowered to the bottom, and, having
+been kept there some hours, was hauled up, and to
+our great joy found to be almost alive with numerous
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page309" id="page309"></a>309</span>
+small crustaceans<a name="fa2q" id="fa2q" href="#ft2q"><span class="sp">2</span></a> and foraminifera; specimens of
+which were, of course, collected and preserved, being
+the most northern animal life yet discovered. With
+our thermometer a series of temperatures was taken
+at every ten fathoms, whilst the specific gravity of
+the surface water was also obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Tidal action was apparent; but, with the means at
+our disposal, we were unable to observe the rise and
+fall of the tide, or to make any accurate measurement
+regarding it. Altogether the day was not unprofitably
+spent.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 12th.</i>&mdash;This 12th of May must always be regarded
+as an eventful day in the lives of our little party,
+for it was that on which we had the honour, and no
+small gratification, of planting the Union Jack on the
+most northern limit of the globe ever attained by
+civilized man, or, in fact, so far as our knowledge
+goes, by mortal man! In order to insure being
+within four hundred miles of the North Pole, we
+started immediately after breakfast to the northward,
+carrying with us the sextant, artificial horizon, and
+all our colours and banners. We were a party of ten,<a name="fa3q" id="fa3q" href="#ft3q"><span class="sp">3</span></a>
+two men being left behind to attend to the wants of
+the five who were sick, and who were left comfortably
+settled inside the tents.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page310" id="page310"></a>310</span></p>
+
+<p>The walking was undoubtedly severe, at one moment
+struggling through deep snow-drifts, in which we
+floundered up to our waists, and at another tumbling
+about amongst the hummocks.</p>
+
+<p>Some idea may be formed of the difficulties of the
+road, when, after more than two hours&rsquo; hard walking,
+with little or nothing to carry, we had barely accomplished
+one mile!</p>
+
+<p>Shortly before noon a halt was called, the artificial
+horizon set up, and the flags and sledge standards
+displayed. Fortunately the sun was favourable to us,
+and we were able to obtain a good altitude as it passed
+the meridian, although almost immediately afterwards
+dark clouds rolled up, snow began to fall, and the sun
+was lost in obscurity.</p>
+
+<p>We found the latitude to be 83° 20&prime; 26&Prime; N., or three
+hundred and ninety-nine miles and a half from the
+North Pole. The announcement of our position was
+received with three cheers, with one more for Captain
+Nares; then all sang the &ldquo;Union Jack of Old
+England,&rdquo; our &ldquo;Grand Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus,&rdquo;
+winding up, like loyal subjects, with &ldquo;God save the
+Queen.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>No words of mine could describe the scene that
+surrounded us better than those of Coleridge in his
+&ldquo;Ancient Mariner&rdquo;:</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;The ice was here, the ice was there,</p>
+<p class="i05">The ice was all around.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind">For nought else but snow and ice could be seen in
+any direction.</p>
+
+<p>In spite, however, of these dreary surroundings,
+suggesting everything that was desolate and miserable,
+mirth, happiness, and joy seemed to reign paramount
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page311" id="page311"></a>311</span>
+amongst our little party. Perhaps there was something
+in the idea of having been farther north than
+any other man had hitherto penetrated, that promoted
+such feelings! Whatever produced them, they
+were shared in by all. Even the sick, on our return
+to camp, prostrate and suffering as they were, participated
+in the general hilarity and rejoicing. They
+knew their toilsome journey had terminated, and that
+each day would bring them nearer to their ship and
+to those supplies that were necessary to save their
+lives.</p>
+
+<p>On returning to the tents, a magnum of whiskey,
+kindly sent by the &ldquo;Dean of Dundee,&rdquo; for the express
+purpose of being drunk at our highest northern
+position, was broached, and for supper we had divided
+amongst the two sledge crews a hare that had been
+shot by Dr. Moss on the third day after leaving the
+ship. Could men in our position want more? Never
+were the bones of a hare picked so clean! No dog
+would have benefited much from the scraps remaining
+from our repast!</p>
+
+<p>Absent friends were duly toasted, and the evening
+was brought to a close with songs, in which even the
+invalids joined. All appeared happy, cheerful, and
+contented.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1q" id="ft1q" href="#fa1q"><span class="fn">1</span></a> The original from which the annexed illustration is a copy, was
+painted by Admiral R. B. Beechey, and exhibited in the Royal
+Academy in 1877. It is now in the possession of Mr. Clements
+Markham.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2q" id="ft2q" href="#fa2q"><span class="fn">2</span></a> <i>Anonyx nugax</i>, a fine adult male example, and several smaller
+ones. The length of the largest specimen is 1½ inch. This species
+is one of the commonest and most abundantly distributed of the
+northern <i>Amphipoda</i>. It was discovered by Captain Phipps in 1773,
+and is found along the shores of Arctic America, in the White Sea,
+on the coasts of Greenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, Norway, and in
+the Sea of Okhotsk.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft3q" id="ft3q" href="#fa3q"><span class="fn">3</span></a> The names of these men are&mdash;Commander A. H. Markham,
+Lieutenant A. A. C. Parr, Thos. Rawlings, Ed. Lawrence, John
+Radmore, Thos. Jolliffe, Daniel Harley, Wm. Ferbrache, Wm. Maskell,
+and John Pearson.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page312" id="page312"></a>312</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XXIV.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Is not short payne well borne, that brings long ease,</p>
+<p class="i05">And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet grace?</p>
+<p class="i05">Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas,</p>
+<p class="i05">Ease after warre, death after life, does greatly please.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i20 s"><i>Faërie Queene.</i></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">At</span> three o&rsquo;clock on the afternoon of the 13th of May
+the homeward march was commenced, our main object,
+of course, being to get back to the ship as speedily as
+possible.</p>
+
+<p>Before starting, a couple of records, inclosed in two
+tin cases, were deposited on the floe. One was placed
+as near the centre of the floe as possible, the other
+was secured on the top of a hummock.</p>
+
+<p>On the records was stated the latitude and longitude
+of the position, together with a few words regarding
+the condition of the party. If these are ever picked
+up it will be very interesting and important, as
+throwing light on the drift or tide in these high
+latitudes.</p>
+
+<p>It is unnecessary to describe the incidents that
+occurred on each successive day during the return
+journey. Day by day did our strength diminish.
+Gradually, but surely, the men, one after the other,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page313" id="page313"></a>313</span>
+began to feel the cruel grasp of the disease, as they
+struggled manfully on, dragging their poor, helpless
+companions, in spite of racking pains and aching
+limbs. Although themselves attacked by the dreadful
+malady, the men who were still able to work suppressed
+their own sufferings in their endeavours to
+ameliorate those of their more helpless and ailing
+comrades. Unmindful of their own miserable plight,
+they devoted themselves to the tender and soothing
+functions of nurses with a thoughtful and careful
+tenderness that would have done credit even to those
+of the weaker sex.</p>
+
+<p>Often had the same road to be traversed, as the
+sledges were advanced one at a time, and most
+fortunate was it that we were able to adhere to the
+road constructed during our outward journey. To do
+so, however, during the thick weather which constantly
+prevailed, was a task of great difficulty and very
+trying to the eyes; but we knew that if by ill-luck we
+should wander away and lose it, our chances of ever
+seeing the ship again would be poor indeed! The
+hours selected for travelling were between 6 <span class="scs">P.M.</span> and
+6 <span class="scs">A.M.</span> By choosing this part of the day, or rather
+night, for working, we kept the sun as much as
+possible at our backs, and slept during the warmth
+of the day. Towards the end of May, although the
+temperature of the outside air was below the freezing
+point, the sun was so powerful that it would raise
+the temperature inside our tent, whilst we were
+sleeping, to as much as 70° or 80°, which would be
+quite unbearable! Frost-bites had become a thing
+of the past, and were no longer dreaded. The temperature
+did not rise above the freezing point until
+the month of June.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page314" id="page314"></a>314</span></p>
+
+<p>Snow fell heavily during the greater part of the
+return journey, and fogs were very prevalent. Gales
+of wind had to be endured, for to halt was out of the
+question&mdash;rest there was none&mdash;onward was the order
+of the day.</p>
+
+<p>As the disease gradually assumed the mastery over
+the party, so did the appetites decrease, and in a very
+alarming manner, until it was with the greatest
+difficulty that anybody could be induced to eat at all.
+Instead of each man disposing of one pound of
+pemmican a day, the same quantity sufficed for the
+entire party in one tent; and even this, occasionally,
+was not consumed. Nor was the subject of eating
+and drinking so often discussed. During the outward
+journey, beefsteaks and onions, mutton chops and
+new potatoes, and Bass&rsquo;s beer formed the chief topics
+of conversation. On the return journey they were
+scarcely alluded to. Hunger was never felt; but we
+were all assailed by an intolerable thirst, which could
+only be appeased at meal times, or after the temperature
+was sufficiently high to admit of quenching our
+thirst by putting icicles into our mouths.</p>
+
+<p>Aching bones and sleepless nights were the chief
+causes of our sufferings.</p>
+
+<p>With all these hardships it was a great comfort to
+be able to put on dry foot gear. If it was fine when
+we encamped, our blanket wrappers and hose were
+spread out on the tent in the sun, so that when we
+got up they were not only dry, but <i>not frozen</i>, and
+were, therefore, limp and supple!</p>
+
+<p>On the 17th of May we again, strange to say,
+crossed the track of a hare, being at the time about
+twenty-five miles from the nearest land. Like the
+track before seen, the footsteps were close together,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page315" id="page315"></a>315</span>
+indicating that the poor little creature was in a very
+exhausted state. Although the traces were very
+indistinct, they appeared to be going in a northerly
+direction.</p>
+
+<p>Though our travelling was slow, we could see a
+perceptible decrease in the distance between ourselves
+and the land, whenever the weather was fine enough
+for us to observe it. &ldquo;Old Joe,&rdquo; as the men irreverently
+termed Cape Joseph Henry, loomed nearer
+and darker, and we all regarded it with anxious,
+longing eyes.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th of May the first icicles were observed
+hanging from the edges of a few hummocks&mdash;a sure
+sign of the returning power of the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Ominous symptoms of a disruption of the pack
+were seen on the same day, and again on the following
+one. A crack in some ice had opened considerably
+since we last passed over it, whilst small hummocks
+had been formed by the pressure of two floes, one
+against the other. These little indications made
+matters assume a still more serious aspect. They
+may have been due to tidal action, but they were
+undoubtedly warnings to get off the pack as speedily
+as possible.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th the snow crystals that fell actually
+melted on coming into contact with our clothes or
+any dark substance. These crystals were all of a
+beautiful stellar shape. A hummock passed, although
+composed, apparently, of one piece of ice, was of
+two different colours, a deep blue and a pale yellow.
+Portions of each were broken off for the purpose of
+testing their respective specific gravities, and also to
+carry back to the ship for analysis. In all probability
+the discolouration was caused by the presence of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page316" id="page316"></a>316</span>
+diatomaceæ. The hummocks, at about this date,
+began to assume a different appearance, the mild
+weather depriving them of their snowy covering, and
+causing them to lose much of their former resemblance
+to gigantic wedding cakes!</p>
+
+<p>The men began to have an inkling of the nature
+of the disease from which they were suffering,
+although we studiously avoided all mention of it.
+It went with them by the name of the &ldquo;Joseph
+Henry mange!&rdquo; Their spirits were wonderful, and
+they joked each other as they hobbled along. Their
+lameness they called the &ldquo;Marco Polo limp,&rdquo; and
+declared on their return to England they would introduce
+it as the fashionable gait!</p>
+
+<p>Nothing appeared to subdue their courage or their
+zeal. Orders were always executed with the utmost
+willingness and good humour, and with as much
+alacrity as they were capable of evincing.</p>
+
+<p>The men having heard that tea-leaves had been
+recommended as a good <i>vegetable</i>, the contents of the
+tea-kettle, after lunch and supper, were carefully
+collected, and devoured with avidity; but there is
+little faith, I fear, to be placed in their efficacy for
+warding off or subduing our terrible complaint.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of our sledge loads appearing to diminish
+in weight as the provisions were consumed, they
+seemed to drag heavier, and we were at a loss
+whether to attribute this to the depth and softness
+of the snow over which we travelled, or to the
+increasing weakness of our party! It was hard
+work, and as much as we could do to make any
+progress at all. The men experienced great difficulty
+in moving their legs, the slightest exertion caused
+intense pain, and it was a piteous sight to witness
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page317" id="page317"></a>317</span>
+them struggling bravely on, without uttering a murmur
+or complaint. They all knew that their only
+hope of safety was to get back to the ship as speedily
+as possible.</p>
+
+<p>The 24th of May being the Queen&rsquo;s birthday, all
+the flags and banners were displayed during the
+short time we halted for lunch, and her Majesty&rsquo;s
+health was drunk by her most northern and not
+least loyal subjects. On that day, amongst the
+entire party, we could only muster four and a half
+good and sound pairs of legs! Still even those with
+&ldquo;game legs&rdquo; stuck to the drag-ropes nobly, and if
+they were unable to render much assistance, still the
+drag-ropes acted as a support, and therefore enabled
+them to keep up.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th the eighty-third parallel of latitude
+was recrossed.</p>
+
+<p>The comparatively high temperature caused the
+snow over which we journeyed to assume a &ldquo;sludgy&rdquo;
+consistency, which clung tenaciously to our legs and
+to the sledge runners, rendering the work of dragging
+and walking all the more laborious.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th the condition of the party was so
+critical that it became only too painfully evident that,
+to insure their reaching the land alive, the sledges
+must be considerably lightened in order to admit
+of a more rapid advance. The state of the party
+was on that day as follows: five men were in a very
+precarious condition, utterly unable to move, and
+consequently had to be carried on the sledges; five
+others nearly as bad, but who nobly persisted in
+hobbling after the sledges, which they could just
+manage to accomplish, for, as the sledges had to be
+advanced one by one, it gave them plenty of time
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page318" id="page318"></a>318</span>
+to perform the distance; whilst three others exhibited
+all the premonitory scorbutic symptoms. Thus only
+the two officers and two men<a name="fa1r" id="fa1r" href="#ft1r"><span class="sp">1</span></a> could be considered as
+effective! This was, it must be acknowledged, a very
+deplorable state of affairs.</p>
+
+<p>I therefore decided to abandon the remaining boat,
+which would materially lessen the load to be dragged.
+This decision was only arrived at after long and
+anxious consideration. I had to decide which was
+the lesser of two evils.</p>
+
+<p>For I well knew that should a disruption of the
+pack occur, and we had already observed ominous
+signs of such an event, without a boat the party
+would indeed be placed in a hopeless position; but
+again I knew that in retaining the boat, the weights
+to be dragged by our weakened crew would be so
+excessive as to preclude the possibility of reaching
+the shore before all the provisions would be expended,
+and starvation would be the result. Again it was of
+the utmost importance that haste should be made
+in order to reach the ship, and place the sick under
+proper medical treatment. The disease was extending
+so rapidly as to produce a marked change for the
+worse every day. The boat, therefore, and all superfluous
+weights were abandoned, and the march was
+again wearily resumed.</p>
+
+<p>Many a silent prayer was offered up to God to
+protect and watch over us, for we felt, indeed, that
+we were in dire distress, and that without His aid
+and assistance we must perish; and we prayed for
+strength to enable us to drag our poor helpless and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page319" id="page319"></a>319</span>
+suffering companions to a place of safety. A record
+was left in the deserted boat, containing a brief
+account of our state and condition, with the latitude
+and longitude where it was abandoned.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:657px; height:567px" src="images/img347.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">SNOW BUNTING</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>On the following day great excitement was caused
+by the appearance of a snow bunting, which was seen
+fluttering about amongst the hummocks, uttering its
+sweet and pleasant chirp, which to us was the most
+pleasing music we had heard for many a long day.
+No wonder the sudden appearance amongst us of this
+little warbler was so interesting, for it was the first
+bird we had seen for nine long months. Even the
+invalids, as they lay on the sledges, requested that
+they might have their faces uncovered, so as both to
+see and hear the little friend that had flown off to us,
+as if it were a messenger to welcome our party back
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page320" id="page320"></a>320</span>
+to life and friends. Long and anxiously was it
+watched as it winged its course towards the land,
+whither we also were slowly wending our way.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th the colours were again displayed at
+lunch time, in commemoration of the first anniversary
+of our sailing from England, and allusions were made
+to that ever-memorable day, comparisons being drawn
+between our condition then and now! On that evening
+our tents were pitched close to the boat that we
+had abandoned on our outward journey, and which
+we found exactly in the same state as when we left
+it, with its mast stepped and yard hoisted, standing
+out like a grim sentinel guarding those icy wastes.</p>
+
+<p>On the 31st, whilst crossing some young ice between
+two heavy floes, one of the sledges broke through, and
+we had no little trouble in saving it from complete
+immersion, and the invalid who was on it from being
+drowned! These warnings were unmistakeable, and
+pointed to the necessity of reaching the land as
+quickly as possible. The falling snow and drift thawed
+upon our clothes, making us wet and extremely
+wretched and uncomfortable.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of June the temperature was some two
+or three degrees above freezing point. This had the
+effect of thawing the surface snow and converting it
+into a thick sludge. Our foot gear in consequence
+was in a soaking wet state. Our working force on
+this day was reduced to six, and all suffering more
+or less.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2nd the thick weather, which had so persistently
+clung to us, proved triumphant and robbed
+us of our road. Up to this date we had been able to
+avail ourselves of the road constructed with so much
+trouble and labour on our outward journey. On this
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page321" id="page321"></a>321</span>
+day we wandered off it, and in spite of our efforts
+were unable to pick up the trail again. The severe
+and monotonous labour of road-making had again to
+be resorted to. On the 5th, to our very great joy, we
+succeeded once more in pitching our camp on <i>terra
+firma</i>, after an absence from it of two months. On
+first landing our hopes were excited on observing the
+recent traces of a sledge and human footprints, and
+we congratulated ourselves upon soon obtaining that
+relief we all so much required; but we were doomed
+to disappointment, for on reaching the depôt of provisions
+established near Cape Joseph Henry for our
+use, and which was found intact, we learnt that a
+sledge party with Captain Nares had left for the ship
+only two days previously! This was a bitter blow, for
+we knew that something more than provisions was
+needed for the safety of the party.</p>
+
+<p>We learnt also that scurvy had made its appearance
+on board the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; and that poor Petersen died
+from the effects of his last sledge journey, on the 14th
+of May.</p>
+
+<p>Three hares had been kindly and thoughtfully left
+for us in a crevice amongst the hummocks by Captain
+Nares, and this furnished us with meals for a couple
+of days; it is needless to add, they were done ample
+justice to, not only for the sake of their goodness and
+the change they afforded, but also because we thought
+the fresh meat would act as a specific against the
+scurvy.</p>
+
+<p>The tracks of a wolf were observed near the depôt,
+and the animal was frequently heard howling in a
+mournful manner, but we never saw it.</p>
+
+<p>Obtaining a few supplies from the depôt, our march
+was again resumed; but so rapid had been the encroachments
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page322" id="page322"></a>322</span>
+of the disease, that it was only too
+palpable that immediate succour was absolutely
+necessary for our salvation. At the rate of progress
+we were making, it would take us fully three weeks to
+reach the ship, although only forty miles distant;
+and who would there be left in three weeks&rsquo; time?
+The few who were still strong enough to drag the
+sledges would barely last as many days! Assistance
+had, therefore, to be obtained. To procure it, one
+amongst us was ready and willing to set out on this
+lonely and solitary mission, with the firm reliance of
+being able to accomplish what he had undertaken,
+and with the knowledge that he possessed the full confidence
+of those for whose relief he was about to start
+on a long and hazardous walk. On the 7th of June
+Lieut. Parr started on his arduous march to the ship.
+Deep and heartfelt were the God-speeds uttered as he
+took his departure, and anxiously was his retreating
+form watched until it was gradually lost to sight
+amidst the interminable hummocks.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;All waste! no sign of life</p>
+<p class="i05">But the track of the wolf and the bear!</p>
+<p class="i05">No sound but the wild, wild wind,</p>
+<p class="i05">And the snow crunching under his feet.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Although the loss of one strong man, like Parr,
+from the party was seriously felt, still the knowledge
+that active steps had been taken to procure aid was
+sufficient to compensate for this reduction in our
+strength, and the men gallantly persevered at the
+drag-ropes, buoyed up by renewed hopes.</p>
+
+<p>On the day previous to that on which Parr left, an
+Eskimo dog, to our great surprise, was seen threading
+its way to us through the hummocks. It was soon
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page323" id="page323"></a>323</span>
+recognized to be one of our dogs, named Flo; but she
+was so timid that at first nothing would induce her
+to approach. After a little time, however, we coaxed
+her to us, and on having some pemmican thrown to
+her she ate it ravenously. Poor thing! she was
+wretchedly thin and emaciated; she, we concluded,
+had been cast adrift, or made her escape from the last
+dog-sledge that visited this neighbourhood. She
+joined our tail of cripples, hobbling, like them, after
+us and carefully walking in the track of our sledges.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th of June sadness and despondency prevailed
+amongst our little band. One of our number
+had received that summons to which all must at some
+time attend, and had been called to his long account.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;His soul to Him who gave it rose.</p>
+<p class="i05">God led it to its long repose&mdash;</p>
+<p class="i05">Its glorious rest.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>This was a terrible and unexpected blow to many
+who regarded themselves as being in a still more
+critical and precarious condition than was poor
+Porter. His end was calm and peaceful, and he retained
+his senses to within five minutes of the time
+of dissolution.</p>
+
+<p>Sad and mournful, indeed, was the small procession
+that wended its way slowly to the new-made grave,
+dug out of a frozen soil, carrying the lifeless remains
+of their comrade, covered with the Union Jack, on
+the same sledge on which he had been dragged,
+whilst alive, for many weeks; and there, with the
+tears trickling down their weather-beaten and smoke-begrimed
+faces, with their hearts so full as to choke
+all utterance, they laid their late fellow-sufferer in his
+last resting-place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page324" id="page324"></a>324</span></p>
+
+<p>A rude cross, improvised out of the rough materials
+that our own equipment supplied, with a brief inscription,
+marks the lone and dreary spot in that far-off
+icy desert where rests our comrade in his long
+sleep that knows no waking, and where probably
+human foot will never again tread.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;O World! so few the years we live,</p>
+<p class="i05">Would that the life that thou dost give</p>
+  <p class="i2">Were life indeed!</p>
+<p class="i05">Alas! thy sorrows fall so fast,</p>
+<p class="i05">Our happiest hour is when at last</p>
+  <p class="i2">The soul is freed.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Gladly, after the ceremony was concluded, was the
+order to renew the march received, every one being
+desirous of quitting a place so fraught with sad and
+melancholy associations; the day, as if in unison
+with the state of our own thoughts and feelings, was
+dull and gloomy.</p>
+
+<p>The late mournful event produced a despondency
+in our little band to which we had hitherto been
+strangers.</p>
+
+<p>One and all felt and knew that assistance, to be of
+any avail, must arrive speedily, and many a wistful
+glance was directed towards the south, in the faint
+hope of seeing that succour without which they would
+surely perish. They felt more their own weakness
+and helplessness, and dreaded a recurrence of what
+had recently taken place. The journey was silently
+and wearily resumed.</p>
+
+<p>As many of the men were unable to eat their
+pemmican, on account of the soreness of their gums,
+and from a certain dislike that they had lately taken
+to it, a new &ldquo;dish&rdquo; was tried, consisting of preserved
+potatoes mixed with bacon fat, and although in flavour,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page325" id="page325"></a>325</span>
+if any was perceptible, it rather resembled what starch
+might be like, it was decidedly acceptable as a change,
+and each person consumed about two-thirds of a
+pannikin.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 9th a rainbow was seen,
+which, being an unusual sight, afforded much interest.
+On the same day, shortly after the march had been
+commenced, a moving object was suddenly seen
+amidst the hummocks to the southward. At first it
+was regarded as an optical illusion, for we could
+scarcely realize the fact that it could be anybody from
+the &ldquo;Alert!&rdquo; With what intense anxiety this object
+was regarded is beyond description.</p>
+
+<p>Gradually emerging from the hummocks, a hearty
+cheer put an end to the suspense that was almost
+agonizing, as a dog-sledge with three men was seen
+to be approaching. A cheer in return was attempted,
+but so full were our hearts that it resembled more a
+wail than a cheer.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to describe our feelings as May and
+Moss came up, and we received from them a warm
+and hearty welcome. We felt that we were saved,
+and a feeling of thankfulness and gratitude was uppermost
+in our minds, as we shook the hands of those
+who had hurried out to our relief the moment that
+Parr had conveyed to them intelligence of our distress.
+Those who a few short moments before were in the
+lowest depths of despondency, appeared now in the
+most exuberant spirits. Pain was disregarded and
+hardships were forgotten as numerous and varied
+questions were asked and answered.</p>
+
+<p>We heard with delight that they were only the vanguard
+of a larger party, headed by Captain Nares
+himself, that was coming out to our relief, and which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page326" id="page326"></a>326</span>
+we should probably meet on the following day. A
+halt was immediately ordered, cooking utensils lighted
+up, ice made into water, and we were soon all enjoying
+a good pannikin full of lime-juice, with the prospect
+of mutton for supper!</p>
+
+<p>After halting for the night Moss made a thorough
+medical inspection of the whole party. His report
+was by no means cheering: all were more or less
+affected, and some were in a very precarious condition.
+The presence, however, of a medical officer amongst
+us restored confidence, and acted as a powerful antiscorbutic!</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we met the larger party
+coming out to our assistance, and with their help
+arrived alongside the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; on the 14th of June,
+seventy-two days after our departure from the ship.</p>
+
+<p>What a contrast did that departure afford to our
+return!</p>
+
+<p>Then, on that bright but cold April morning, all
+were in the highest spirits, cheerful and enthusiastic,
+looking forward with confidence to a comparatively
+successful issue to their undertaking&mdash;a fine, strong,
+and resolute band.</p>
+
+<p>Alas! how different was the return! Out of that
+party of fifteen men, one had gone to his long home,
+eleven others were carried alongside the ship on
+sledges dragged by a party despatched to their relief,
+and only the remaining three were capable of walking.<a name="fa2r" id="fa2r" href="#ft2r"><span class="sp">2</span></a>
+Even they were scarcely able to move one leg
+before the other, and were, on their return, placed with
+the others under the doctor&rsquo;s hands. It was, indeed,
+a sad and terrible calamity with which we had been
+afflicted, totally unexpected and unparalleled in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page327" id="page327"></a>327</span>
+annals of Arctic sledging experiences. On our arrival
+alongside the ship, we were, of course, most warmly
+welcomed by every soul on board; before entering
+Captain Nares called for three cheers for our party,
+and then offered up thanks to Almighty God for
+having preserved us through many dangers and privations,
+and for guiding us back to our ship without
+further loss of life.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1r" id="ft1r" href="#fa1r"><span class="fn">1</span></a> John Radmore, chief carpenter&rsquo;s mate, and William Maskell, able
+seaman.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2r" id="ft2r" href="#fa2r"><span class="fn">2</span></a> Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page328" id="page328"></a>328</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XXV.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Now that the winter&rsquo;s gone, the earth hath lost</p>
+<p class="i05">Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost</p>
+<p class="i05">Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream</p>
+<p class="i05">Upon the silver lake or crystal stream,</p>
+<p class="i05">But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i20 s"><span class="sc">Carew.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">The</span> hearty welcome we received from one and all on
+board the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; together with the indescribable
+pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a champagne
+supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough
+to indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely
+happy; the feeling being increased by the knowledge
+that our suffering companions were under the tender
+care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility
+connected with their treatment had, so far as
+we were concerned, ceased. Our late hardships and
+the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return of
+the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for
+the number of cots hanging up outside the ward-room,
+and the row of beds along the lower deck, each
+occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt
+inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a
+dream from which we had suddenly been awakened.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page329" id="page329"></a>329</span></p>
+
+<p>A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong
+body of men it would be difficult to conceive. Not
+only had the men engaged in the extended party
+under my command been attacked with scurvy, but
+also those who had been absent from the ship only for
+short periods, and some, who may be said never to
+have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two
+or three days! The disease then could not be attributed
+to any special circumstance connected with
+sledge travelling.</p>
+
+<p>The seeds must have been sown during the time,
+nearly five months, that the sun was absent, and we
+were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable food
+is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of
+health, and its absence is the originating cause of
+scurvy. To this originating cause all Arctic Expeditions
+have been equally exposed. The predisposing
+causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak
+when the originating cause exists, are the long absence
+of the sun, entailing darkness, damp, intense cold,
+and bad ventilation. To these predisposing causes
+our expedition was exposed for a very much longer
+period than any other which sent out extended travelling
+parties. For this reason other expeditions were
+exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short,
+the different result was caused by the difference in
+latitude. As our winter arrangements, and our scale
+of diet, both on board and while travelling, were
+identical with those of former expeditions, the cause
+of the outbreak could not have had anything to do
+either with diet or winter routine. Lime-juice, though
+most useful in warding off for a time and delaying an
+attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other
+circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page330" id="page330"></a>330</span>
+This is the opinion of all the best medical authorities;
+and our experience proved it to be an undoubted fact.
+Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship
+and never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice,
+and others were attacked who went away travelling
+at a time when daily rations of lime-juice formed
+a part of the sledge dietary.<a name="fa1s" id="fa1s" href="#ft1s"><span class="sp">1</span></a></p>
+
+<p>In future, when an expedition winters in so high a
+latitude as 82° N., the prevention of an outbreak of
+scurvy must be secured by improved measures for
+mitigating the predisposing causes.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the condition of the crew of the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo;
+Captain Nares publicly announced, on the 16th of
+June, that on the return of the sledge parties, he
+would endeavour to rejoin the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; and
+would then send that vessel to England with all the invalids,
+and those unfit to remain out a second winter.
+The &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; would pass her second winter at Port
+Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would
+be despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes
+Sound, and the adjacent land. This work completed,
+that vessel also would return to England. The
+reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future
+winter quarters was the amount of animal life, principally
+reindeer, reported to abound in that neighbourhood,
+and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in
+breaking out in the following summer.</p>
+
+<p>This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it
+was certain that in the then state of the ship&rsquo;s company
+of the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; many lives would be sacrificed
+if all the men were required to spend another winter
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page331" id="page331"></a>331</span>
+in the Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching
+England acted as a cure upon those who were in the
+worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their recovery
+than all the medicines and careful nursing
+that they received from our painstaking and attentive
+doctor.</p>
+
+<p>In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt
+regarding the safety of the western sledge party under
+Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in which the
+northern division had been afflicted, it was feared
+that they also would not pass scathless.</p>
+
+<p>Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same
+extent. Their route was along the coast line, and it
+was expected that they would have been able to
+supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions,
+such as hares, geese, and perhaps musk-oxen.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th of June, four days after the return of
+my party, May, with three men and the dog-sledge,
+dragged by our remaining six dogs, left the ship in
+order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich&rsquo;s party, and if
+necessary to take him relief and assistance. The
+succeeding days were anxious ones to all on board,
+and many were the trips taken to the summit of
+Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning
+sledgers. We could not disguise from ourselves the
+fact that unless they returned quickly they would be
+placed in a very critical position. In a few days they
+must be without provisions. This we knew. The
+temperature, too, had reached freezing point, and
+frequently stood two or three degrees above it,
+causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore
+making the task of dragging a sledge one of severe
+and unpleasant toil.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st the sun reached its highest northern
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page332" id="page332"></a>332</span>
+declination, and every day would bring us nearer
+to another winter; therefore we knew that to effect
+our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary
+to get our sledging parties on board as soon as
+possible, in order to prepare the ship for sea, and to
+commence the operations requisite for cutting her
+out of winter quarters.</p>
+
+<p>The snow on the hills to the northward of us was
+rapidly disappearing; but this might only be due to
+their southern aspect, for in our immediate vicinity
+the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the
+latter end of May the hills around the ship were
+perfectly bare; but the heavy fall of snow, experienced
+by us during our return journey, had again covered
+them as they were during the winter.</p>
+
+<p>Water began to form in little pools on the floes
+near the ship, and every sign betokened the approaching
+disruption of the pack. On the 23rd, a few king
+ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen
+hovering about the land, and one or two specimens
+of the latter were shot&mdash;their skins swelling our
+natural history collection, their bodies being reserved
+for the sick.</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine
+Service, on ascending Look-out-hill, to our very
+great delight we observed the wanderers struggling
+through the hummocks some six or seven miles off.
+Hurrying down to communicate the good news, a
+relief party was speedily formed, and by midnight
+we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them
+all on board. It was the old story repeated. All
+were suffering from scurvy, and only Aldrich and
+two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one
+of the latter being so bad that he was under
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page333" id="page333"></a>333</span>
+medical treatment for many weeks after his return on
+board.</p>
+
+<p>Their absence from the ship extended over a period
+of eighty-four days, during which they did very good
+service, having explored no less than two hundred
+and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them
+near Cape Joseph Henry, not far from the spot
+where he had before brought succour to my party.
+They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a
+very crippled condition. It is most fortunate he
+succeeded in reaching them when he did. His cheery
+spirit and strong help did much to assist them, and
+enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside
+their Arctic home in undiminished numbers. It was
+a great relief to all on board to know that every one
+had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So
+great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties
+had arrived, that the lot of those on board was hardly
+more enviable than that of the travellers!</p>
+
+<p>Our good ship was now converted into a regular
+hospital, and might almost be said to be in charge
+of the medical officers; for those who were not
+actually under treatment had to be placed at the
+disposal of the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks,
+or attendants of some kind. Perfect rest and
+careful nursing were the most essential requisites
+for a complete restoration to health. Spenser
+must have had the recovery of similar wayworn
+and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste</p>
+<p class="i05">And bodies were refresht with dew repast.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless
+attention to their patients, and it was to their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page334" id="page334"></a>334</span>
+untiring watchfulness that we owed the complete
+recovery of our sick.</p>
+
+<p>Much had to be done to get the ship ready for
+sea; but, for some time, only a few officers and <i>three</i>
+men could be employed in any work connected with
+these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely
+with their duties to the sick. The principal
+work that had to be done, before the ice broke up
+round the ship, was to get on board and stow away
+all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that
+had been landed before the winter. The housing had
+long been taken down, and the upper deck had been
+partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once
+more admitted through the skylights and illuminators.
+It is a curious fact connected with those
+who were for a long period absent from their ship,
+that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached,
+until in fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour
+was gradual, and, although noticed, was never alluded
+to, each one imagining that his companion&rsquo;s hair
+was turning grey from the effects of hardship and
+anxiety! It was only after our return to the ship
+that those possessing beards and moustaches discovered
+the change that had occurred. The colour
+returned in the same gradual manner that it had
+disappeared. We all suffered a loss of hair from the
+head; but this may easily be attributed to our sealskin
+caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly
+worn.</p>
+
+<p>After the long use of moccasins, it took us some
+time to get accustomed to leather boots, which we
+were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy state
+of the surface of the floes and the land. With a
+temperature some degrees below freezing point, nothing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page335" id="page335"></a>335</span>
+is more comfortable or better suited for travelling
+over the pack than a good pair of moccasins.</p>
+
+<p>The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated,
+on the 29th of June, by the best dinner we could
+afford to put on the table. As our printing-press had
+long been dismantled, a written <i>menu</i> was given to
+myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended
+sledge parties. A beautiful sketch of the highest
+position reached was drawn by Moss, the following
+being as near as possible a fac-simile:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:795px; height:398px" src="images/img363.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Marco Polo.&rdquo; &emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp; Lat. 83° 20&prime; 26&Prime; N.</td></tr></table>
+
+<div class="condensed ptb2 center">
+
+<p>MENU.</p>
+<p>Potage olla Podrida.</p>
+<p>Petits Pâtes d&rsquo;Homards. &emsp;&emsp;  Fricassée de Pégouse et Sardines.</p>
+<p>Rognons aux Champignons saucés dans Attrapez-en-haut.</p>
+<p>Rissoles à la Tomato.</p>
+<p>Mâchoire de B&oelig;uf. &emsp;&emsp;&emsp;  Jambon au Champagne.</p>
+<p>Petits Pois. &emsp; Carottes. &emsp; Ognons. &emsp; Pommes de Terre.</p>
+<p>Tourte de Pêches.</p>
+<p>Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou. &emsp; Pouding en Marmelade.</p>
+<p>Pains rôtis aux Anchois.</p>
+<p>Fromage. &emsp;&emsp;&emsp; Liqueurs. &emsp;&emsp;&emsp; Dessert.</p>
+<p>Café noir.</p>
+
+<p>H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert.&rdquo; &emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp; <i>29th June, 1876.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page336" id="page336"></a>336</span></p>
+
+<p>On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the
+following verses composed by Pullen for the occasion.
+It is needless to add that they were not only appreciated,
+but that they found a response in every
+breast:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>Welcome home to the wished-for rest,</p>
+<p>Travellers to north and travellers to west!</p>
+<p>Welcome back from bristling floe,</p>
+<p>Frowning cliff and quaking snow!</p>
+<p>Nobly, bravely the work was done;</p>
+<p>Inch by inch was the hard fight won.</p>
+<p>Now the toilsome march is o&rsquo;er,</p>
+<p>Welcome home to our tranquil shore.</p>
+
+<p class="s">Rough and rude is the feast we bring;</p>
+<p>Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.</p>
+<p>Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise</p>
+<p>To choke our voices and dim our eyes,</p>
+<p>As we call to mind that joyous sight</p>
+<p>On an April morning cold and bright,</p>
+<p>When a chosen band stepped boldly forth</p>
+<p>To the unknown west and the unknown north;</p>
+<p>And we from our haven could only pray&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;God send them strength for each weary day!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="s">He heard our prayer; He made them strong;</p>
+<p>He bore their stalwart limbs along;</p>
+<p>Planted their sturdy footsteps sure;</p>
+<p>Gave them courage to endure.</p>
+<p>Taught them, too, for His dear sake,</p>
+<p>Many a sacrifice to make:</p>
+<p>By many a tender woman&rsquo;s deed</p>
+<p>To aid a brother in his need.</p>
+
+<p class="s">And safe for ever shall He keep</p>
+<p>In His gentle hand the two who sleep.</p>
+<p>His love shall quench the tears that flow</p>
+<p>For the buried dear ones under the snow.</p>
+<p>And we who live and are strong to do,</p>
+<p>His love shall keep us safely too:</p>
+<p>Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,</p>
+<p>And bring them back to health again.</p>
+<p>And the breath of His wind shall set us free,</p>
+<p>Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page337" id="page337"></a>337</span></p>
+
+<p>Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition
+of the men, and supposing also that those of the
+&ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; were in the same state, he would not be
+justified in allowing even one ship to remain another
+year exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to
+the same causes that had led to the recent outbreak
+of scurvy. We were prepared for this announcement;
+for we well knew that to remain out a second winter,
+although there were many of us ready and eager to
+do so, would simply be to sacrifice many valuable
+lives for no object; for we could not possibly expect
+to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend
+our explorations much farther to the westward,
+although the whole force of the expedition should be
+confined to the one direction. In deciding to return
+to England, Captain Nares showed great moral
+courage, and exercised a sound and wise judgment,
+in the opinion of all his officers.</p>
+
+<p>On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich&rsquo;s
+party, a special thanksgiving was offered up to
+Almighty God for our safe return, and prayers were
+also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical
+examination being held, only ten men out of our fine
+ship&rsquo;s company were reported in a fit state for work,
+and some of these were convalescents! The invalids,
+however, thanks to the doctor&rsquo;s assiduous care, were
+improving slowly but surely.</p>
+
+<p>The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow
+was soft and wet in the valleys, small rivulets were
+already meandering through the ravines and gorges,
+whilst the summits of the mountains were covered
+with brown patches that the wind and thaw combined
+had left bare. Little tufts of the beautiful purple
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page338" id="page338"></a>338</span>
+saxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which we
+walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild
+flowers of our own dear country, and creating a longing
+desire to behold them once more. Footprints
+of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally
+observed; but although these traces appeared fresh,
+they were evidently those of the preceding autumn,
+which, having been covered with snow and frozen
+hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly
+preserved.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate
+as to shoot three musk-oxen within three or four
+miles of the ship, and on the following morning
+another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen.
+This was indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat
+the recovery of our sick would be long and tedious.
+The actual amount of food obtained from these
+animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from
+each. The dexterity with which the beasts were
+operated upon after death would have done credit to
+the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of
+liver and bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say,
+done full justice to&mdash;the only fault being an insufficiency
+in amount.</p>
+
+<p>Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration
+of the invalids to health. Shooting parties
+were, therefore, organized amongst the officers, and
+the whole country for a radius of many miles was
+well scoured in search of game. These shooting
+parties were very enjoyable, especially to those who,
+like myself, had been engaged on one of the prolonged
+sledging expeditions&mdash;the contrast being very great.
+No anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of
+time, and oblivious of everything save our own
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page339" id="page339"></a>339</span>
+pleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt
+tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry,
+the night the same as the day, the sun at midnight
+being as bright as at noon, free from all cares, intent
+only on sport, the time passed in a serene and
+delightful manner, and we were truly sorry when the
+time came to relinquish our gipsying life for a more
+civilized one on board.</p>
+
+<p>On one of these shooting tours I was away from
+the ship, accompanied by a few choice spirits, for
+fourteen days. During that time we succeeded in
+obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent
+geese, which were a welcome addition to the fresh
+meat already obtained for the sick on board the ship.
+What delightful little meals we used to cook for ourselves,
+each one taking his turn, and vying with the
+others in his endeavours to make his dishes excel
+those of his predecessor!</p>
+
+<p>On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and
+gizzards of thirteen geese served up with a little
+bacon, these being the perquisites of the sportsmen.
+In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising
+that a return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian
+and New Zealand beef and mutton, was not
+hailed with delight.</p>
+
+<p>All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing,
+the tops of the hills were bare, and the ravines were
+rendered almost impassable from the mountain torrents
+that dashed down towards the sea, gaining
+strength and volume as they neared their outlets.
+These had to be crossed by the shooting parties, the
+water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with
+such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for
+change of clothing, we had none; but on reaching
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page340" id="page340"></a>340</span>
+our tents we would get into our sleeping-bags and
+leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature
+at this time being about 40°. A warm supper,
+with a pannikin of hot tea, followed by a glass of
+grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the past
+in the enjoyment of the present.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:735px; height:452px" src="images/img368.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">BRENT GOOSE AND EIDER DUCKS.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the
+interior, was extremely picturesque. The spot that
+we selected for our camp was on the borders of a lake
+that formed one of a chain extending to the south
+westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes
+were beautifully carpeted with the pretty little purple
+saxifrage, a <i>draba</i>, a <i>potentilla</i>, and other wild flowers,
+while the valleys were covered with patches of luxuriant
+vegetation, consisting of grasses and delightfully
+soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding
+country afforded a striking contrast to what it was
+but a few short weeks back, when still wrapped in its
+wintry garb.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page341" id="page341"></a>341</span>
+were glad to hear that our invalids were progressing
+favourably, and the convalescents regaining strength.
+It was also a source of great gratification to us to find
+a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting
+floe-bergs, and extending from Point Sheridan
+to as far south as we could see. This was a very
+agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations
+were at once made to release the ship from her icy
+prison. All stores and provisions were re-embarked,
+instruments were brought on board and carefully
+packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the
+screw lowered, and the engines reported in good
+working order. Strict orders were issued that no one
+was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence, for a
+longer period than four hours without express permission.
+Any day might see our release! Anxious eyes
+were constantly directed towards the pack, which was
+now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north
+and south as it felt their influences.</p>
+
+<p>A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on
+the summit of &ldquo;Cairn Hill,&rdquo; in which was deposited
+a record stating briefly what had been accomplished
+by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and
+men of both ships. To this document each of the
+former attached his signature. Will this ever be disturbed
+by our fellow-men?</p>
+
+<p>Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder
+to blow up the ice between the ship and the channel
+of water that almost tantalized us by its existence,
+and so clear a passage by which we could effect our
+escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to
+50 lbs. of powder, were used to accomplish this object,
+and many hours of hard labour were expended in the
+same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page342" id="page342"></a>342</span>
+31st of July, our exertions were crowned with success,
+and great was the excitement on board when hurried
+orders were issued to raise steam with all despatch
+and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind
+had blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear
+channel of water extending as far as could be seen to
+the southward.</p>
+
+<p>By 7 <span class="scs">A.M.</span> the ship was free and afloat, and at eight
+o&rsquo;clock the colours were hoisted, and we succeeded,
+without much difficulty, in steaming clear of the
+prison that had for eleven long months so securely
+held us in its icy fetters.</p>
+
+<p>Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on
+board the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; on again hearing the long-silent
+throbbing of the engines, and knowing that the ship
+was once more in motion?</p>
+
+<p>Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the
+barren, sterile coast, off which we had passed so many
+happy days, and we could not but feel grateful to the
+kind floe-bergs which had, during that time, protected
+us so well from &ldquo;ye merciless yce.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1s" id="ft1s" href="#fa1s"><span class="fn">1</span></a> As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in
+which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles) all
+sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily ration.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page343" id="page343"></a>343</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XXVI.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Let our trusty band</p>
+<p class="i05">Haste to Fatherland,</p>
+<p class="i05">Let our vessel brave</p>
+<p class="i05">Plough the angry wave.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i10 s"><span class="sc">Thorhall&rsquo;s</span> <i>Saga</i>.</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Cape Joseph Henry</span> was lost to sight as the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo;
+rounded Cape Rawson; but very heavy ice off Cape
+Union for a time completely obstructed our progress.</p>
+
+<p>Excessive caution was necessary in handling the
+ship amongst these ponderous floes. Patience combined
+with perseverance are essential virtues inseparable
+to successful ice navigation, and they were constantly
+called into requisition in order to ensure a safe
+deliverance from the dangers which surrounded us.</p>
+
+<p>A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and
+the ship was moved from time to time in order to
+avoid a &ldquo;nip.&rdquo; Frequently we would observe a heavy
+floe coming into contact with the large grounded
+masses of ice that lined the coast, forcing them over,
+or crumbling them into shapeless fragments, thus
+clearly illustrating our own fate should we be so
+unfortunate as to be caught between the two.</p>
+
+<p>The orders &ldquo;up&rdquo; and &ldquo;down screw and rudder&rdquo;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page344" id="page344"></a>344</span>
+were given and executed several times during each
+day. As on our outward journey, preparations were
+now made for abandoning the ship at a moment&rsquo;s
+notice. Tents, clothing, cooking utensils, and all
+necessaries for a life on shore were spread out on the
+upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the
+event of such a catastrophe.</p>
+
+<p>The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable
+loss of our home, and the prospect of being cast adrift
+at a moment&rsquo;s notice, was very remarkable. Perhaps
+the knowledge that our consort, the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; was
+within some forty miles of us, and therefore within
+easy travelling distance, might account for the light
+manner in which such a calamity was regarded; but
+it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss of
+our good ship would be a very serious, not to say
+uncomfortable, event.</p>
+
+<p>Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes&rsquo;
+notice, so as to take advantage of every little opening
+that might occur in the ice, even though we should
+only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On
+one occasion the ship was purposely forced into the
+pack, with which it drifted to the southward; but on
+the turn of the tide, when the ice began to drift in the
+opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free ourselves
+from the bondage to which we had voluntarily
+subjected ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best
+not to allow a ship to get beset, even when the drift of
+the pack is favourable.</p>
+
+<p>As we proceeded south, although our progress was
+slow, the change in the appearance and massiveness
+of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we would
+meet small specimens of our palæocrystic friends, over
+which we had travelled during the preceding spring,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page345" id="page345"></a>345</span>
+but, as a rule, the ice was of a much lighter description.
+Still the floes were far heavier than those met
+with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised.</p>
+
+<p>During the time the ship was detained, waiting for
+the ice to open to allow her to proceed, our sportsmen
+were not idle, landing at all hours of the day and
+night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So
+successful were they in their forays that the sick were
+supplied with a fresh meat meal daily,&mdash;geese, ducks,
+and hares forming the principal part of their &ldquo;bags.&rdquo;
+The slaughter amongst the former was tremendous&mdash;entire
+flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds
+falling victims to the prowess of not more than two
+guns, and within the short space perhaps of half an
+hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of
+moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring
+aim of our marksmen.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we
+succeeded in raising on board, we were able to obtain
+small quantities of sorrel, which the convalescents
+were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and
+sides of the hills, often returning with sufficient to
+enable a limited allowance to be served out periodically.
+Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore
+themselves to <i>browse</i> on this excellent antiscorbutic.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 5th of August, being within
+twenty miles of the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; Egerton, accompanied
+by one of the men, was sent to give them
+information of our position. Our own ship was then,
+and had been for the past forty-eight hours, effectually
+jammed by the ice and unable to move. In the
+mean time we on board the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; were endeavouring
+to get our vessel clean, and into something like
+order and ship-shape. On the following morning we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page346" id="page346"></a>346</span>
+sustained a slight &ldquo;nip,&rdquo; caused by the ice setting
+rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly
+wrenched before the rudder could be unshipped, and
+the iron tiller was bent and crippled. We only succeeded
+in easing the pressure by exploding some
+charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson,
+with two of the men belonging to the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo;
+walked on board. We were, of course, delighted to
+see them and to hear news of our consort.</p>
+
+<p>From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost
+his way, and did not arrive on board their ship until
+after he had been wandering about for eighteen
+hours! The news from the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; was what
+we feared. Notwithstanding the large amount of
+musk-ox flesh procured by them during the autumn
+and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew
+in almost the same virulent manner as it had ours.
+The return journeys of some of their sledge parties
+were simply a repetition of our own. Beaumont&rsquo;s
+division&mdash;the one exploring the north-western coast of
+Greenland&mdash;had suffered very severely, and we heard
+with extreme regret that two of his small party had
+succumbed to this terrible disease.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger,
+had not yet returned to the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo;
+having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit their
+healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our
+spring campaign, on which we had all set out so full
+of enthusiasm and hope. It had the effect, however,
+of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to proceed
+to England. With such broken-down crews it
+would have been folly indeed to have risked the
+rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there was
+really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont having
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page347" id="page347"></a>347</span>
+done his work so well that it would have been impossible
+for us to have extended any exploration in that
+quarter. The &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; had been afloat for some
+time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea
+on the arrival of Beaumont and his party. Their
+absence caused us great anxiety, as the pack, being in
+motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and consequently
+where they would have to cross, made us
+fully alive to the risks and dangers they would encounter
+whilst crossing it. Still we hoped to hear of
+their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor
+alongside our consort in Discovery Bay.</p>
+
+<p>The most important news was that a large seam of
+lignite of the Miocene period had been discovered
+within about three miles of their winter quarters.
+They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several
+large specimens had been carried to the ship&mdash;the
+result of experiments made being that it was reported,
+for steaming purposes, equal to the best Welsh
+coal.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape,
+our naturalist made an interesting discovery within
+two hundred yards of the ship. On the beach, about
+twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some
+wood which, on examination, proved to be portions of
+sledge runners and cross-pieces; also a snow scraper,
+made from the tusk of a narwhal or walrus, and a
+large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock
+hollowed out.<a name="fa1t" id="fa1t" href="#ft1t"><span class="sp">1</span></a> These relics are the most northern
+traces of Eskimos yet found. Their position would
+lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived so
+far north along the shores on the western side of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page348" id="page348"></a>348</span>
+channel, and from thence crossed over to the opposite
+Greenland coast; the cliffs to the northward being
+very steep, and although not actually impassable,
+great difficulty would be experienced in travelling
+along their base. This, and the absence of animal
+life, would readily account for their desire to leave
+such an inhospitable and sterile land.</p>
+
+<p>On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected
+to some very severe squeezes. On the latter
+day a large floe-berg pressed violently against the
+vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern
+bodily out of the water to a height of about five feet.
+The noise of the cracking of the beams and the
+groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard
+will never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling
+of the pitch in the deck seams sounded like a
+shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately for
+us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and
+therefore grounded before it had time to cause the
+destruction of the ship. It was a grand sight to
+witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs&mdash;great
+masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness&mdash;turned
+completely over and swept away by the pack
+in its irresistible career.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:889px; height:568px" src="images/img378.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">REDUCING A FLOE-BERG.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in
+watching spectacles of such magnificence. Our position
+was by no means pleasant: any pressure upon
+the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must
+inevitably crush her; and the prospect of another
+winter in the ice began to dawn upon us. There was
+apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the
+preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when
+once the floe-bergs grounded along the coast, they
+remained immoveable during the whole winter, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page349" id="page349"></a>349</span>
+here were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had
+grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance
+was to reduce the huge mass of ice by which we were
+imprisoned, so as to lighten it sufficiently to float and
+drift away at high water. It was a bold idea; but it
+was no sooner resolved on than every available working
+man in the ship, irrespective of rank or station,
+was busily employed with axe, pick, or chisel in
+demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so
+energetically was the work carried out, that the
+judicious explosion of a heavy charge of powder immediately
+under the berg had the effect of floating it
+away at high water, and the ship was released.</p>
+
+<p>The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good
+progress, and on the following evening had the very
+great satisfaction of anchoring alongside the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo;
+after having been separated from her for
+nearly twelve months. An interchange of visitors
+immediately took place. Local news, for want of
+more important intelligence, was fully and freely
+discussed, and the routine of the winter and the doings
+of the sledge parties formed topics of interesting
+conversation. The prolonged absence of Beaumont
+and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits,
+for we could not hide from ourselves the fact that
+their journey across the strait must be a hazardous
+one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding
+their safety that he determined upon going in search
+of them, even over to Polaris Bay. Accordingly,
+on Sunday morning, the 13th of August, having
+transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the
+&ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; and having our own ship&rsquo;s company
+supplemented by six men from our consort, we again
+made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page350" id="page350"></a>350</span>
+entrance of the harbour, through which it was quite
+impossible to penetrate. On the following day, to
+our great delight, we observed a tent pitched on the
+ice about three miles to the southward of the ship.
+A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours
+we had the extreme pleasure and satisfaction of
+welcoming Beaumont and his party on board, none
+the worse for what they had recently gone through, and
+almost indignant at all offers of assistance that were
+made to them. On account of the drifting of the pack
+over which they had been travelling, their work, during
+the last three or four days, had been excessively
+severe. On occasions they were compelled to continue
+the march for thirty-two and twenty-two consecutive
+hours without resting.</p>
+
+<p>As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable,
+we were unable to advance, although more than one
+unsuccessful attempt was made to push on. On
+several occasions the dredge was hauled and with
+good and interesting results. The coal seam was also
+visited by different parties of officers. It exists in a
+visible seam on the northern side of a ravine, and is
+about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high.
+We were unable to ascertain its depth below the
+surface of the ground, or its thickness.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:895px; height:568px" src="images/img382.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">H.M.S. &ldquo;ALERT&rdquo; FORCED ON SHORE.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>We were also very fortunate in finding a large
+number of vegetable fossils in the surrounding limestone,
+some of the leaf impressions being very clear
+and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent
+cave, formed by the two sides of the gorge
+and covered with a roof of frozen snow. This roof
+is apparently permanent, as when we visited the
+cave it was precisely in the same condition as when
+it was first discovered twelve months before! The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page351" id="page351"></a>351</span>
+cave is very large, capable of accommodating easily
+sixty or seventy men.</p>
+
+<p>During these excursions several butterflies were
+caught and brought on board as specimens, as also
+some flies, gnats, and other <i>diptera</i>. Many hares
+were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who
+had been working like a horse in order to bring his
+patients round.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island
+and the mainland, through which we passed in one
+of our vain attempts to get south, was very striking:
+bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand
+feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines
+and gorges having almost precipitous sides and terminating
+in bays and little harbours.</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging,
+at the expense, however, of our rudder head, we
+succeeded in forcing a passage through the ice in
+Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water
+extending along the coast to the southward, which
+we fondly hoped would eventually lead us into open
+water.<a name="fa2t" id="fa2t" href="#ft2t"><span class="sp">2</span></a> But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed
+uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled
+to seek refuge inside a land-locked and
+apparently well-protected and secure harbour. How
+deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had
+elapsed after entering this sheltered retreat, before
+the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; was severely nipped by a heavy floe and
+forced on shore.</p>
+
+<p>For many hours the ship remained in a very critical
+position, as the tide receding left her completely high
+and dry, and listed over at an angle of 25°.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page352" id="page352"></a>352</span></p>
+
+<p>So steep was the bank on which we had been
+forced, that at low water we were able to walk,
+&ldquo;dry shod,&rdquo; from the stem to the main chains, whilst
+aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within
+a short distance of the taff-rail. A good sensational
+photograph and some sketches were made of the ship
+in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were,
+of course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel.
+The fore part was entirely cleared, and the chain
+cables brought aft. A bower anchor was laid out
+astern in order to haul the ship off to.</p>
+
+<p>The manner in which this latter work was performed
+was both novel and ingenious. A small but heavy
+piece of ice was secured and brought alongside the
+ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft.
+It was then towed by boats to the position decided
+upon, when the raft was destroyed by exploding a
+charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it, the
+anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom.</p>
+
+<p>With such good will did all work, that we had the
+joy and satisfaction of seeing our good ship afloat,
+and ready to proceed, in about fifteen hours from the
+time of the accident taking place. The bay, which
+was the scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings
+Bay, after one of our men, who was my sledge captain
+in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the horn
+of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where
+the ship was aground, proving that the neighbourhood
+is occasionally visited by these animals.</p>
+
+<p>From this time, until the 9th of September, we
+were engaged in a never-ceasing struggle with the
+ice, frequently detained for many hours, and rarely
+advancing more than a few hundred yards during
+the day. The fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page353" id="page353"></a>353</span>
+of the near approach of winter, whilst
+the land had again assumed its wintry covering of
+snow. On the 22nd of August candles had to be
+used below at midnight for reading or writing. The
+young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and
+cementing the broken fragments of floes together.
+This caused such an impediment to our advance,
+although the pack was what is termed loose, that
+we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish
+all attempts at penetrating farther, and to secure the
+ships until a more favourable opportunity should
+occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly
+small, and had to be very carefully economized.
+Without the means of steaming, our chance of escape
+would, indeed, have been small.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;<a name="fa3t" id="fa3t" href="#ft3t"><span class="sp">3</span></a> on the
+27th,<a name="fa4t" id="fa4t" href="#ft4t"><span class="sp">4</span></a> so slow was our progress, that we only just
+succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where we were
+detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature
+had fallen to 19°. Last year we were frozen
+up on the 3rd of September, and here were we on the
+same date with as low a temperature and many
+miles to accomplish before we could actually be clear
+of the ice!</p>
+
+<p>Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything
+appeared gloomy and inhospitable. As there was
+now a prospect of our being forcibly detained for
+another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions
+were getting low, on passing the large depôt
+established in Dobbin Bay on our way up the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page354" id="page354"></a>354</span>
+previous year, we landed and brought off all the tea,
+sugar, and chocolate, and such other articles as we
+were likely to require.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground
+seal (<i>Phoca barbata</i>) was shot by Hans, of the
+&ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; on which was found a partially healed
+wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon
+with an ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction,
+was discovered imbedded in its blubber.
+It would have been very interesting if we could have
+traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the
+tribe to which it had belonged and the locality where
+the wound was inflicted.</p>
+
+<p>One morning, when some little distance from the
+land, a small fox, of a mottled colour, wandered off
+to the ship, being attracted towards us either by
+hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always
+on the <i>alert</i>, soon spied the little animal cruising
+about amongst the hummocks and shot it. The skin
+was preserved with the collection of natural history
+specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner
+and found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks,
+and Allman Bay, an inlet which was named after the
+distinguished President of the Linnæan Society, we
+continued to push the ships in the direction of open
+water to the south, which we at length reached.</p>
+
+<p>It was with no small amount of thankfulness that
+on the 9th of September we emerged from the cold,
+grim clutches that seemed only too ready to detain
+us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King,
+and that we felt our ship rise and fall once more on
+the bosom of an undoubted ocean swell. It was,
+indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see
+nothing but blue water, and, with the exception of a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page355" id="page355"></a>355</span>
+few straggling bergs, not a single speck of ice in
+sight. This broad sheet of water had for some time
+been known to us, having been observed from the
+summits of various hills that we had ascended, and
+all our energies of late had been concentrated into
+reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance
+and patience ultimately proved triumphant.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:792px; height:730px" src="images/img387.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">ALLMAN BAY.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with
+a thin layer of young ice, which offered a great deal
+of hindrance, although it had not the effect of
+checking us altogether. Our course through this
+young ice could be distinctly traced for a long distance
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page356" id="page356"></a>356</span>
+astern, by a broad lane of water resembling the
+Suez Canal. At 6 <span class="scs">P.M.</span> we passed Cape Sabine, and
+distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island
+apparently untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella,
+towards which we steered.</p>
+
+<hr class="foot" /> <div class="note">
+
+<p><a name="ft1t" id="ft1t" href="#fa1t"><span class="fn">1</span></a> I have already referred to this discovery in my remarks on the
+migrations of the Eskimos, at p. 69.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft2t" id="ft2t" href="#fa2t"><span class="fn">2</span></a> At this time the &ldquo;Pandora&rdquo; was cruising in the entrance of
+Smith Sound, with an impenetrable barrier of ice blocking her way
+to the northward.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft3t" id="ft3t" href="#fa3t"><span class="fn">3</span></a> On this day the &ldquo;Pandora&rdquo; succeeded in landing a party on
+Cape Isabella for the second time, searching for a record.</p>
+
+<p><a name="ft4t" id="ft4t" href="#fa4t"><span class="fn">4</span></a> On the 27th the &ldquo;Pandora&rdquo; was driven out of Smith Sound by
+a gale.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page357" id="page357"></a>357</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XXVII.</p>
+
+<p class="center chap2">HOMEWARD BOUND.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Still in the yawning trough the vessel reels,</p>
+<p class="i05">Ingulfed beneath two fluctuating hills;</p>
+<p class="i05">On either side they rise, tremendous scene,</p>
+<p class="i05">A long dark melancholy vale between.</p>
+<p class="i05">The balanced ship, now forward, now behind,</p>
+<p class="i05">Still felt the impression of the waves and wind,</p>
+<p class="i05">And to the right and left by turns inclined.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i20 s"><span class="sc">Falconer.</span></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;<i>Montano.</i>&mdash;What from the cape can you discern at sea?</p>
+
+<p class="i05"><i>1st Gent.</i>&mdash;Nothing at all: it is a high-wrought flood;</p>
+   <p class="i5">I cannot, &rsquo;twixt the heaven and the main,</p>
+   <p class="i5">Descry a sail.</p>
+
+<p class="i05"><i>Montano.</i>&mdash;Let&rsquo;s to the seaside, ho!</p>
+
+<p class="i05"><i>3rd Gent.</i>&mdash;Come, let&rsquo;s do so;</p>
+   <p class="i5">For every moment is expectancy</p>
+   <p class="i5">Of more arrivance. (<i>Within.</i>) A sail! A sail!</p>
+
+<p class="i05"><i>4th Gent.</i>&mdash;The town is empty; on the brow of the sea</p>
+   <p class="i5">Stand ranks of people, and they cry&mdash;a sail!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="i20 s"><i>Othello.</i></p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind pt1"><span class="chap1 sc">Shortly</span> before midnight, on the 9th of September,
+Cape Isabella was reached and the ships were clear
+of Smith Sound. As, on our outward journey, to me
+had been allotted the duty of erecting a cairn on that
+prominent headland, and establishing a post office,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page358" id="page358"></a>358</span>
+so, on our return journey, was I assigned the duty of
+visiting the place in order to ascertain if letters had
+been deposited there during the period of our absence
+by any enterprising friend. On reaching the lower
+cairn, to my great surprise&mdash;for we hardly expected
+that any one would have visited the place since our
+departure the previous year&mdash;I found an additional
+cask had been placed alongside the one that I had
+established there. This was quickly opened, and
+found to contain a small mail for each ship.</p>
+
+<p>Hurriedly leaving a record notifying our visit, we
+eagerly seized our treasures and made the best of our
+way to the boat. Great was the excitement when the
+news spread that a mail from England was actually on
+board, and we were soon deep in the enjoyment of
+perusing late letters from home, a pleasure to which
+we had so long been strangers.</p>
+
+<p>Many were the heartfelt expressions of gratitude
+that rose to the lips of those lucky recipients of home
+news towards that gallant officer and friend who had
+so perseveringly and so generously, in spite of many
+dangers and difficulties, succeeded in depositing their
+letters so far north. The bulk of our mail we imagined
+had been left either at Disco or Upernivik.
+Had we examined the cairn on the summit of Cape
+Isabella, we should there have learnt that the same
+kind and disinterested friend had taken them to
+Littleton Island, and there safely deposited them.
+Being ignorant of this fact, and the weather being
+against our proceeding thither, a course was shaped
+to the southward; those who were under the impression
+that our English letters were really on that
+island being consoled by the fact that we were steering
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page359" id="page359"></a>359</span>
+homewards, and that in a short time letters would
+be no longer necessary or of any value.</p>
+
+<p>Wars, and rumours of wars, were prevalent, for
+our latest news came from England at the time when
+all Europe was disturbed and unsettled by the complexion
+of affairs in the East.</p>
+
+<p>This made us all the more anxious to get home
+quickly; but alas! everything was against us. Tempestuous
+weather, with the wind <i>always</i> contrary, was
+our introduction to our own element, and, as our coal
+was running very short, we were obliged to put the
+ships under canvas and thrash them at it. Icebergs
+were innumerable, and, as the nights were increasing
+in length and the darkness in density, they were anything
+but pleasant neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of September it was blowing so hard
+and the weather was so thick, that it was determined
+to seek an anchorage under the lee of the land in
+Whale Sound, and there wait until the weather
+moderated. With this object the ships were worked
+up under fore and aft sails and steam, eventually
+anchoring in a small bay (Bardin Bay) in close proximity
+to the Tyndall Glacier. As we came in we
+observed an Eskimo settlement on the eastern side
+of the bay, and several natives were seen running
+along the land towards us; but as the glacier intervened
+they were unable to communicate, and the
+weather was too bad to allow us to send a boat to
+them. This was much to be deplored, as, irrespective
+of the fact that these people were the first human
+beings that we had seen for many a long month, it
+was desirable that we should propitiate them in favour
+of white men, and for this purpose we had many little
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page360" id="page360"></a>360</span>
+articles of infinite value to them, such as knives,
+needles, thread, scissors, etc., besides provisions,
+ready for their acceptance.</p>
+
+<p>These natives were of the same tribe as those
+who were so kind to Kane and Hayes, and also to the
+&ldquo;Polaris,&rdquo; so it would have been a good action, independently
+of all other reasons, could we have befriended
+them.</p>
+
+<p>We had not been at anchor, however, more than
+five hours before a change of wind, accompanied by
+heavy squalls which came over the hills fast and
+furious, obliged us to get under weigh, and again put
+to sea, although the weather was as thick and the
+wind as strong as ever&mdash;added to which hail and snow
+showers were frequent: altogether a very unpleasant
+and miserable night was spent, for it was nearly
+midnight when we were forced to fly from our
+harbour.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th we were beating about off the entrance
+to Lancaster Sound, near Cape Byam Martin. This
+was all familiar ground to me, and brought back
+to my recollection scenes on board the old whaler,
+&ldquo;Arctic,&rdquo; that had occurred in the same locality
+three years before. We made many tacks in our
+endeavours to weather Cape Walter Bathurst, but, for
+a long time, without success, for the wind invariably
+headed us on each tack.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th several eider-ducks, some turnstones,
+rotges, and snow-buntings were seen, but all going
+in a southerly direction, apparently anxious to seek
+warmer climes before the winter should have claimed
+both the sea and land. How we envied these birds
+their means of locomotion! for foul and strong winds
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page361" id="page361"></a>361</span>
+causing slow progress, were beginning to be very
+irksome. Our old friends the &ldquo;mollies&rdquo; (fulmar
+petrels), that we had not seen for so long, again
+joined us, and might be seen continually darting
+down and picking up in their voracious maws all
+scraps that had been thrown overboard.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:740px; height:460px" src="images/img393.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">FULMAR PETRELS (&ldquo;MOLLIES&rdquo;).</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The persistent manner in which the bad weather
+clung to us was quite marvellous. Hardly a fine day
+had been enjoyed since we emerged from the ice. The
+words of Falconer would have been applicable to us,
+and might have been repeated with truth every morning:</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;A lowering squall obscures the southern sky,</p>
+<p class="i05">Before whose sweeping breath the waters fly.</p>
+
+<p class="i05" style="letter-spacing: 1.5em">* * * * *</p>
+
+<p class="i05">It comes resistless! and with foaming sweep,</p>
+<p class="i05">Upturns the whitening surface of the deep.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>At length, after being buffeted about for many
+days, the high land of Disco was sighted on the 25th
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page362" id="page362"></a>362</span>
+of September; and on the same day we came to an
+anchor in the little harbour of Godhavn, and congratulated
+ourselves once more upon our return to
+civilization.</p>
+
+<p>The day, as if to make up for our previous bad
+weather, was a bright sunny one, and perfectly still
+and calm. This was all the more appreciated after
+the turbulent seas which had lately almost driven us
+distracted. The scenery coming in was very beautiful.
+On one side were the high cliffs of Disco,
+intersected here and there with deep fiords and bays,
+whilst on the other lay the perfectly quiescent sea,
+studded with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Occasionally
+the surface of the water would be ruffled
+and disturbed by the appearance of a seal&rsquo;s head, as
+the inquisitive little animal would pop it up to gaze
+curiously at us as we steamed slowly by; or else a
+whale, as he swam lazily along, would give a flick
+with his huge tail, or spout a jet of water in the air,
+which might be taken either as a welcome back to
+more genial climes, or an angry remonstrance that a
+monster larger than himself should dare to live in
+his own particular domain. Birds flew around and
+alighted near us. One, a ger-falcon, was so bold as to
+venture to perch upon our fore-royal truck; but, I am
+ashamed to relate, was fired at for its misplaced
+confidence. It escaped, however, unhurt. Everything
+was bright and joyous, and all were happy and elated.
+Our joy was slightly marred on arrival to find that
+our mails had really been taken on and left at
+Littleton Island; but a mail, with letters of a later
+date than those brought out by the &ldquo;Pandora,&rdquo;
+which had been got together and made up for us at
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page363" id="page363"></a>363</span>
+Copenhagen by my cousin, had just arrived in the
+Danish brig &ldquo;Tjalfe.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Of course it could not be expected that, during the
+period of our absence from England, no sad changes
+should have taken place, and the sorrowful faces of
+more than one among us testified to the fact that
+some dear and loved ones would be seen no more in
+this world.</p>
+
+<p>From Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, we learnt
+that the &ldquo;Pandora&rdquo; had only taken her departure
+for England four days previously, having been unsuccessful
+in her endeavours to reach Cape Sabine.
+The attempt had only been relinquished by her commander
+when the lateness of the season compelled
+him to beat a retreat. A supply of beer, sent from
+England by my cousin, was found awaiting our
+arrival, and was most acceptable. A cask of beer
+had also been kindly left for our use by Allen Young,
+so that we were enabled to supply &ldquo;all hands&rdquo; with
+a glass of beer twice a week during the passage
+to England. Through the kindness of the Danish
+authorities, we were able to obtain thirty tons of coal,
+with a promise of thirty more if we chose to go
+to Egedesminde, another settlement about sixty miles
+to the southward. This was an offer too valuable
+to be disregarded, and was accepted by Captain
+Nares.</p>
+
+<p>Having shifted our rudder, which, to use an
+American phrase, was &ldquo;pretty considerably chawed
+up,&rdquo; from its treatment by the ice, and made good a
+few other defects, we took our departure from Godhavn
+on the morning of the 28th, Mr. Krarup Smith,
+the Inspector, coming on board to accompany us
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page364" id="page364"></a>364</span>
+round to Egedesminde. As we steamed out of harbour
+the little three-gun battery fired a farewell
+salute, the ensigns on shore, and on board, were
+dipped, and the ladies (two in number), from their
+verandahs, waved with their pocket handkerchiefs a
+last adieu. It was a fine clear morning as we left; but
+a thick fog soon overtook us, in which we remained
+enveloped for the remainder of the day, and it was
+not until the following morning that we reached our
+destination.</p>
+
+<p>Our way took us through a perfect labyrinth of
+small islands, some of the narrow channels through
+which we had to pass being almost blocked by large
+grounded masses of ice, remnants of icebergs. The
+&ldquo;Alert&rdquo; and &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; being the first steamers
+that had ever visited Egedesminde, the natives turned
+out in force to witness our arrival. Several kayaks
+came skimming rapidly along the smooth and unruffled
+surface of the water as we approached, their
+occupants gazing with evident astonishment at the
+large &ldquo;umiaks,&rdquo; whose motive power was to them
+invisible and incomprehensible. The Danish flag
+was run up on three separate flag-staves on shore,
+and a salute of seven guns was fired to welcome our
+arrival.</p>
+
+<p>There is much similarity about the various Danish
+settlements in Greenland. The houses are of the
+same size and colour, and generally of about the
+same number, whilst all possess their little church,
+their storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement
+is very prettily situated on the northern side of
+the largest of a group of many islands of all sizes.
+These are of the same metamorphic formation, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page365" id="page365"></a>365</span>
+possess a more luxuriant vegetation than we had
+hitherto seen. The island is covered with numerous
+small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and
+swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking
+up to the ankles in a bog, is very great.</p>
+
+<p>The population of Egedesminde, which is the most
+southern settlement in the Inspectorate of North
+Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty souls,
+including the Danes, who with the Governor and his
+family number about twelve. The entire population
+of North Greenland is about four thousand three
+hundred.</p>
+
+<p>The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and
+stacked during the summer, and when dried is very
+generally used as fuel. The chief employment of the
+inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of
+collecting skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained
+on the mainland, but they are not plentiful.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to
+present us with a fine large haunch of venison; but,
+curious to relate, when served up, it had an unmistakeable
+taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic
+patients, who were at this time nearly all convalescent,
+benefited largely from the quantities of fresh
+fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 2nd of October, having
+received on board the amount of coal promised, we
+bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed away
+amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of
+colours. The stoppages at these two civilized places
+were very pleasant breaks to us, after our long absence
+from society of any description, except our own,
+and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page366" id="page366"></a>366</span>
+kindness and true hospitality extended to us by our
+Danish friends in the different settlements in Northern
+Greenland will long be remembered with feelings of
+gratitude and pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>From the date of leaving this our last port until
+our arrival at Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous
+weather. Strong head winds were in constant
+attendance, and the ship&rsquo;s general state was being
+&ldquo;battened down and under close-reefed topsails.&rdquo;
+Under these circumstances our daily rate of progress
+was remarkably slow, and on some days we found
+that we had actually increased our distance from
+home instead of having lessened it. Few on board
+had before experienced a longer continuance of really
+stormy weather. From the severe buffeting we
+received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to
+such a state as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head
+being almost wrenched off, and we were obliged
+to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage
+by means of the rudder pendants.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th of October, to the intense surprise of
+everybody, a vessel was sighted ahead, which proved
+to be the &ldquo;Pandora.&rdquo; How very small is this world we
+live in! Here were we in the middle of the broad
+Atlantic, fifteen hundred miles from England, and
+out of the course of all ships, and yet actually
+meeting a vessel that had purposely come out to
+seek us.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was too bad to allow us to communicate,
+but an interchange of news was effected by
+signal. The three ships remained in company for a
+couple of days, when they lost sight of each other
+in thick and blowy weather, we having previously
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page367" id="page367"></a>367</span>
+ordered the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; to rendezvous at Queenstown
+in case of parting company.</p>
+
+<p>Our rudder being in such a dilapidated state,
+Captain Nares determined upon putting in to Valentia
+for the purpose of shifting it, the spare one
+having in the mean time been temporarily repaired.
+With this object we anchored in the snug little harbour
+of Valentia, on the 27th of October, and here
+Captain Nares and several of the officers left for the
+purpose of proceeding at once to London to report our
+arrival.</p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Now, strike your sayles, yee jolly mariners,</p>
+<p class="i05">For we be come unto a quiet rode,</p>
+<p class="i05">Where we must land some of our passengers</p>
+<p class="i05">And light this wearie vessel of her lode.</p>
+<p class="i05">Here she awhile may make her safe abode.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>It is in vain to attempt to describe the pleasure we
+all felt at beholding trees and green fields once more,
+with the cattle browsing in them. It is difficult at
+once to throw off old habits, and there were many on
+board who expressed their anxiety to land at once
+with their guns for the purpose of shooting &ldquo;that
+herd of musk-oxen.&rdquo; Had we given way to our inclinations,
+I fear our reception would not have been
+so warm or so hospitable as it was.</p>
+
+<p>The people of Valentia were the first to bid us
+welcome. Their kindness and hospitality will never
+be effaced from our memory. The rudder having been
+shifted, and sundry repairs executed, we took our
+departure on the following morning at daylight, being
+guided out of the place by a most eccentric and original
+old pilot. On the 29th we reached Queenstown,
+where we found the &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; had arrived only a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page368" id="page368"></a>368</span>
+couple of hours before. Here again we received a
+warm welcome and enjoyed that hearty hospitality
+for which the Irish people are so justly celebrated.
+That evening we were the guests of the Port Admiral,
+he and Mrs. Hillyar hearing of no refusal, although
+we had to sit down to dinner in&mdash;well, clothes very
+dirty and very much the worse for wear. The next
+day, having taken in a supply of coals, we started for
+Portsmouth, the two ships remaining in company
+and arriving in that harbour together on the 2nd of
+November.</p>
+
+<p>Our reception there and afterwards is a matter of
+history. Suffice it to say that our exertions received
+the approbation of our country and of our brother
+officers, and that the Lords of the Admiralty were
+pleased to express their satisfaction at the manner
+in which the expedition had been conducted by our
+leader, as well as at the way in which the work had
+been carried out by his subordinates.</p>
+
+<p>My story has now come to an end. My aim has
+been to describe our daily life during a very eventful
+service.</p>
+
+<p>I have quoted largely from my journal, and in
+some instances I have thought it best to copy from
+it <i>verbatim</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing is further from my thoughts than to claim
+for this narrative any literary merit whatever. I
+simply wish it to be regarded as a plain but accurate
+statement of facts&mdash;an unpretending account of the
+cruise of one of the ships of the late expedition&mdash;by
+one of its members.</p>
+
+<p>In launching my little book upon the ocean of
+literature, I venture to quote the words of brave old
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page369" id="page369"></a>369</span>
+Master Beste, who, being engaged in compiling a
+record of another Arctic expedition, humbly apologizes,
+as I do, for submitting his work to the public:&mdash;&ldquo;And
+herein I humbly pray pardon, for my rude
+order of writing, which proceedeth from the barren
+brayne of a souldier and one professing armes, who
+desireth rather to be wel thought of with your honour
+for his well meaning than for anye hys cunning
+writing at all.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:536px; height:712px" src="images/img401.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption"><i>FAREWELL!</i></td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page370" id="page370"></a>370</span></p>
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page371" id="page371"></a>371</span></p>
+<p class="center chap">INDEX.</p>
+
+<div class="condensed list">
+<p>Admiralty, Lords of, visit to the Polar ships, <a href="#page9">9</a>;
+  satisfaction at the results of the expedition, <a href="#page368">368</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Admiralty Inlet, remains of Eskimos on shores of, <a href="#page68">68</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Albert Head, <a href="#page65">65</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Aldebaran, erratic conduct of, <a href="#page200">200</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Aldrich, Lieut. Pelham, R.N., skill in managing a kayak, <a href="#page30">30</a>;
+  starts on a reconnoitring expedition in the autumn, <a href="#page128">128</a>;
+  second autumn journey with dog-sledge, <a href="#page133">133</a>;
+  starts on a third autumn journey, <a href="#page136">136</a>, <a href="#page137">137</a>;
+  ascends a hill near Cape Joseph Henry, <a href="#page147">147</a>;
+  glees by, <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  his lecture on meteorology, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  orchestra for the Royal Arctic Theatre, <a href="#page171">171</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>;
+  plays the harmonium at church, <a href="#page187">187</a>;
+  one of his dogs lost, <a href="#page190">190</a>;
+  plays at Christmas, <a href="#page194">194</a>, <a href="#page195">195</a>;
+  commands the extended party to the west, <a href="#page241">241</a>;
+  anxiety for his safety, <a href="#page331">331</a>;
+  return, <a href="#page332">332</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ale, prepared specially for the expedition, <a href="#page17">17</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Beer.)</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; H.M.S., <a href="#page1">1</a>, <a href="#page2">2</a>;
+  special fittings, <a href="#page3">3</a>;
+  departure from Portsmouth, <a href="#page9">9</a>;
+  leaves Berehaven, <a href="#page12">12</a>;
+  commencement of the voyage, <a href="#page15">15</a>;
+  a lively ship, <a href="#page17">17</a>;
+  arrival at Godhavn, <a href="#page26">26</a>;
+  departure from Godhavn, <a href="#page34">34</a>;
+  on shore, <a href="#page43">43</a>;
+  proceeds to Cary Islands, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  Port Foulke, <a href="#page51">51</a>, <a href="#page56">56</a>;
+  perilous position of, <a href="#page65">65</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a>;
+  at Hannah Island, <a href="#page100">100</a>;
+  in Discovery Harbour, <a href="#page104">104</a>, <a href="#page108">108</a>, <a href="#page293">293</a>;
+  on shore near Cape Beechey, <a href="#page112">112</a>;
+  in the palæocrystic ice, <a href="#page117">117</a>, <a href="#page118">118</a>;
+  crosses the threshold of the unknown region, <a href="#page119">119</a>;
+  danger at Floe-berg Beach, <a href="#page125">125</a>, <a href="#page134">134</a>;
+  precarious winter quarters, <a href="#page125">125</a>, <a href="#page135">135</a>, <a href="#page136">136</a>;
+  housed in, <a href="#page154">154</a>;
+  internal winter arrangements, <a href="#page156">156</a>;
+  printing establishment, <a href="#page165">165</a>;
+  departure of sledges from, <a href="#page257">257</a>;
+  scurvy breaks out on board, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  succour from, reaches N. division, <a href="#page325">325</a>;
+  freed from winter quarters, <a href="#page342">342</a>;
+  forced on shore, <a href="#page351">351</a>;
+  afloat again, <a href="#page347">347</a>;
+  at Valentia, <a href="#page367">367</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Winter Quarters.)</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Alexandra,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, <a href="#page217">217</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>, <a href="#page263">263</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Alexandra Bay, <a href="#page61">61</a>, <a href="#page63">63</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Amusements in winter quarters, <a href="#page167">167</a>;
+  importance of, <a href="#page163">163</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Theatricals.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Anonyx nugax</i>: crustacea brought up at the extreme northern point, <a href="#page309">309</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Arctic Circle crossed by the expedition, <a href="#page26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Arctic Highlanders, <a href="#page48">48</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Eskimo.)</p>
+
+<p>Arctic school, <a href="#page166">166</a>, <a href="#page167">167</a>, <a href="#page213">213</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Arctic theatre. (<i>See</i> Theatricals.)</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Arctic,&rdquo; whaler, reminiscences of, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Astronomical observatory, <a href="#page153">153</a>, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Astronomy, lecture on, by Captain Nares, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  by Commander Markham, <a href="#page169">169</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Atanekerdluk, fossil plants at, <a href="#page36">36</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Atlantic, gales of wind in, <a href="#page17">17</a>, <a href="#page18">18</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Auks, Little. (<i>See</i> Rotges.)</p>
+
+<p>Autumn depôt. (<i>See</i> Depôts.)</p>
+
+<p>Autumn travelling, <a href="#page128">128</a>, <a href="#page129">129</a>, <a href="#page133">133</a>, <a href="#page137">137</a> to <a href="#page150">150</a>;
+  discomfort, <a href="#page141">141</a>;
+  severe work, <a href="#page147">147</a>, <a href="#page148">148</a>;
+  return from, <a href="#page148">148</a>, <a href="#page149">149</a>;
+  results, <a href="#page149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Auxiliary sledges, <a href="#page234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ayles, Adam, song by, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Bache Island, of Hayes, not an island, <a href="#page64">64</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Baffin, William, gave name to Woman Isles, <a href="#page41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bag (sleeping), <a href="#page139">139</a>, <a href="#page233">233</a>, <a href="#page235">235</a>, <a href="#page240">240</a>, <a href="#page279">279</a>, <a href="#page283">283</a>, <a href="#page287">287</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Baird Inlet, <a href="#page57">57</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Baird, Cape, stopped by ice off, <a href="#page103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Banks Island, heavy pack on west coast, <a href="#page200">200</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bantry Bay. (<i>See</i> Berehaven.)</p>
+
+<p>Bardin Bay, <a href="#page359">359</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Barrow, Cape John, <a href="#page93">93</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bears, hunt in Melville Bay, <a href="#page46">46</a>;
+  recent tracks, <a href="#page86">86</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Beaumont, Lieutenant, H.M.S. &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; his journey along the north coast of Greenland, <a href="#page346">346</a>;
+  return of, <a href="#page350">350</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Beechey, Cape, Eskimo remains at, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  lane of water in direction of, <a href="#page102">102</a>, <a href="#page112">112</a>, <a href="#page113">113</a>;
+  rounded, <a href="#page114">114</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Beer at Godhavn, <a href="#page363">363</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bellot, Cape, <a href="#page103">103</a>, <a href="#page112">112</a>;
+  Island, <a href="#page112">112</a>, <a href="#page351">351</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Berehaven, expedition at, <a href="#page12">12</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bessels Bay, entrance passed, <a href="#page100">100</a>;
+  description of, <a href="#page101">101</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bessels, Dr., observation as to meetings of tides at Cape Fraser, <a href="#page92">92</a>;
+  coast-line correctly delineated by, <a href="#page99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Beverley, crimson cliffs of, <a href="#page48">48</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bide-a-wee Harbour, <a href="#page58">58</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Payer Harbour.)</p>
+
+<p>Bills of fare, <a href="#page185">185</a>, <a href="#page186">186</a>, <a href="#page196">196</a>, <a href="#page335">335</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Play-bills.)</p>
+
+<p>Birds of the Arctic regions, <a href="#page24">24</a>, <a href="#page35">35</a>, <a href="#page50">50</a>;
+  Brent geese, <a href="#page345">345</a>;
+  dovekies, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  eider duck, <a href="#page101">101</a>, <a href="#page131">131</a>, <a href="#page360">360</a>;
+  falcon, <a href="#page362">362</a>;
+  fulmar petrel, <a href="#page361">361</a>;
+  glaucous gulls, <a href="#page50">50</a>;
+  ivory gulls, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  kittiwakes, <a href="#page50">50</a>;
+  king ducks, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page332">332</a>;
+  knots, <a href="#page110">110</a>;
+  looms, <a href="#page40">40</a>, <a href="#page50">50</a>;
+  ptarmigan, <a href="#page225">225</a>;
+  rotges, <a href="#page46">46</a>, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page360">360</a>;
+  skuas, <a href="#page332">332</a>;
+  terns, <a href="#page110">110</a>, <a href="#page332">332</a>;
+  turnstones, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Birthdays, celebration of, <a href="#page184">184</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Black, Cape, <a href="#page253">253</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Blasting the ice, <a href="#page87">87</a>, <a href="#page89">89</a>, <a href="#page90">90</a>, <a href="#page341">341</a>, <a href="#page349">349</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Bloodhound,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, <a href="#page259">259</a>, <a href="#page263">263</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Boats for the expedition, <a href="#page4">4</a>;
+  search for, left by Hayes, <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#page55">55</a>;
+  on a sledge, <a href="#page58">58</a>;
+  jolly-boat of &ldquo;Valorous&rdquo; landed in Dobbin Bay, <a href="#page84">84</a>;
+  turned in on their davits owing to height of ice, <a href="#page90">90</a>;
+  advanced to northward of ship, <a href="#page133">133</a>;
+  hauled up during winter quarters, <a href="#page157">157</a>;
+  on sledges, <a href="#page242">242</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  in Parry&rsquo;s expedition, details of, <a href="#page243">243</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  painted, <a href="#page245">245</a>;
+  care of, on sledge, <a href="#page279">279</a>;
+  abandonment of, by Commander Markham, <a href="#page288">288</a>, <a href="#page289">289</a>, <a href="#page318">318</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Boldroe, Mr., governor of Egedesminde, <a href="#page365">365</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Botanical collections, <a href="#page31">31</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Botany. (<i>See</i> Vegetation.)</p>
+
+<p>Bottle-nose whales, <a href="#page20">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Brent geese, <a href="#page345">345</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Brevoort Island, <a href="#page57">57</a>;
+  cairn on, <a href="#page356">356</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Brevoort Cape in sight, <a href="#page103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Bruin,&rdquo; largest dog on board, <a href="#page210">210</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Bryant, Geo., H.M.S. &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; serving in the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; <a href="#page169">169</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Buchanan Strait, Eskimo remains at, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Bulldog,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, <a href="#page217">217</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>, <a href="#page263">263</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Burroughs, Geo., ship&rsquo;s steward, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; acts in <i>Chops of the Channel</i>, <a href="#page173">173</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Butterflies, <a href="#page351">351</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Byam Martin Cape, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Cairns at the Cary Islands, <a href="#page49">49</a>;
+  at Life-boat Cove, <a href="#page53">53</a>;
+  at Cape Isabella, <a href="#page56">56</a>;
+  on Brevoort Island, <a href="#page356">356</a>;
+  ancient cairns on Washington Irving Island, <a href="#page85">85</a>;
+  on Hannah Island, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  at Lincoln Bay, <a href="#page117">117</a>;
+  at the &ldquo;Alert&rsquo;s&rdquo; winter quarters, <a href="#page284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cairn Hill, <a href="#page219">219</a>, <a href="#page220">220</a>, <a href="#page221">221</a>, <a href="#page225">225</a>;
+  cairn built, <a href="#page341">341</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cane, Frederick, armourer, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; songs by, <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page215">215</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Carl Ritter Bay, <a href="#page99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cary Islands, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  depôt on, <a href="#page49">49</a>, <a href="#page84">84</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Castletown. (<i>See</i> Berehaven.)</p>
+
+<p>Cave in the snow, <a href="#page350">350</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cetaceans, various kinds, <a href="#page20">20</a>, <a href="#page21">21</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Challenger,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, <a href="#page217">217</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Chlorine observations, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chops of the Channel</i>, play acted by the men, <a href="#page173">173</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Chorus, grand palæocrystic, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas in the Arctic regions, <a href="#page192">192</a> to <a href="#page197">197</a>;
+  bill of fare, <a href="#page196">196</a>;
+  poem on, <a href="#page196">196</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Clavering, Captain, Eskimo seen by, on east coast of Greenland, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Clements Markham,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, <a href="#page217">217</a>;
+  starts for &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page248">248</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Clements Markham Inlet, <a href="#page288">288</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Clothing during winter, <a href="#page159">159</a>, <a href="#page160">160</a>;
+  sledging, <a href="#page239">239</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Foot-gear.)</p>
+
+<p>Coal, discovery of, <a href="#page350">350</a>;
+  offer of, at Egedesminde, <a href="#page363">363</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cod-fish, <a href="#page21">21</a>, <a href="#page25">25</a>, <a href="#page365">365</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Colan, Dr., H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; his lecture on food in the Arctic regions, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  medical instructions to officers of sledges, <a href="#page238">238</a>;
+  skilful treatment of Petersen, <a href="#page255">255</a>;
+  attention to scurvy patients, <a href="#page333">333</a>, <a href="#page338">338</a>, <a href="#page345">345</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cold, extreme, <a href="#page208">208</a>, <a href="#page222">222</a>, <a href="#page224">224</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Temperature.)</p>
+
+<p>Collinson, Cape, <a href="#page94">94</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cook, while sledging, <a href="#page235">235</a>, <a href="#page265">265</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cooking apparatus, weight, <a href="#page233">233</a>;
+  description, <a href="#page235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Copenhagen, letters sent out from, <a href="#page363">363</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Coppinger, Dr., H.M.S. &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; state of lime-juice found by, in Polaris Bay, <a href="#page305">305</a>;
+  journey with Lieut. Beaumont, <a href="#page346">346</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cress. (<i>See</i> Mustard and Cress.)</p>
+
+<p>Crimson cliffs of Beverley, <a href="#page48">48</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Crinoids dredged up, <a href="#page73">73</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Crow&rsquo;s-nest, description, <a href="#page3">3</a>;
+  Captain Nares constantly in, <a href="#page66">66</a>;
+  a cold berth, <a href="#page98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Crozier Island passed, <a href="#page98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Crustaceans dredged up at the extreme northern point, <a href="#page309">309</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cryolite mine in Greenland, <a href="#page20">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Crystal Palace Glacier, <a href="#page50">50</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Dancing at Christmas, <a href="#page197">197</a>;
+  old year, <a href="#page204">204</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Darkness, approach of, <a href="#page127">127</a>;
+  in sledge travelling, <a href="#page141">141</a>;
+  in winter, <a href="#page178">178</a>, <a href="#page182">182</a>;
+  monotony of, <a href="#page207">207</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Davis, John, musicians in the expedition of, <a href="#page8">8</a>;
+  gave name to Cape Desolation, <a href="#page22">22</a>, <a href="#page23">23</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Davis Strait, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page19">19</a>, <a href="#page20">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Daylight. (<i>See</i> Light.)</p>
+
+<p>Deaths. (<i>See</i> Petersen, Porter, &ldquo;Discovery.&rdquo;)</p>
+
+<p>Depôts on Cary Isles, <a href="#page49">49</a>;
+  Cape Isabella, <a href="#page56">56</a>;
+  Dobbin Bay, <a href="#page85">85</a>, <a href="#page353">353</a>;
+  Cape Collinson, <a href="#page95">95</a>;
+  Cape Morton, <a href="#page102">102</a>;
+  Lincoln Bay, <a href="#page117">117</a>, <a href="#page248">248</a>;
+  Floe-berg Beach, <a href="#page122">122</a>, <a href="#page124">124</a>;
+  near Cape Joseph Henry, <a href="#page147">147</a>, <a href="#page149">149</a>, <a href="#page263">263</a>, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  to southward of Floe Berg Beach for &ldquo;Discovery&rdquo; sledges, <a href="#page255">255</a>;
+  for sledge parties, <a href="#page234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Deptford,&rdquo; snow storehouse so called, <a href="#page154">154</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Desolation, Cape, <a href="#page22">22</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Diptera, <a href="#page351">351</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Disco, <a href="#page6">6</a>, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page34">34</a>, <a href="#page358">358</a>, <a href="#page362">362</a>;
+  tradition of, <a href="#page33">33</a>, <a href="#page34">34</a>;
+  view from hills of, <a href="#page31">31</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Godhavn.)</p>
+
+<p>Disco Bay, <a href="#page31">31</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; H.M.S., <a href="#page95">95</a>;
+  departure from Portsmouth, <a href="#page9">9</a>;
+  commencement of voyage, <a href="#page15">15</a>;
+  sighted off Greenland coast, <a href="#page25">25</a>;
+  towed by the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; <a href="#page41">41</a>;
+  following, <a href="#page45">45</a>;
+  sent to communicate with natives at Cape York, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  at Port Foulke, <a href="#page56">56</a>;
+  perilous position, <a href="#page65">65</a>;
+  grounds off Cape Louis Napoleon, <a href="#page90">90</a>;
+  in great danger, <a href="#page91">91</a>;
+  blown from her anchors, <a href="#page95">95</a>;
+  lands a depôt at Cape Morton, <a href="#page100">100</a>;
+  in harbour, <a href="#page104">104</a>;
+  winter quarters of, <a href="#page107">107</a>;
+  sledge crew from, joins the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; <a href="#page108">108</a>;
+  theatre on board, <a href="#page174">174</a>;
+  a health to, <a href="#page217">217</a>;
+  depôts laid out for sledges of, <a href="#page227">227</a>;
+  work of sledge parties, <a href="#page242">242</a>;
+  arrangement for opening communication with, from &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; <a href="#page246">246</a>, <a href="#page255">255</a>;
+  to return to England, <a href="#page330">330</a>;
+  joined by &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; <a href="#page344">344</a>, <a href="#page345">345</a>;
+  scurvy among crew of, <a href="#page346">346</a>;
+  two deaths, <a href="#page346">346</a>;
+  rendezvous at Queenstown, <a href="#page367">367</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Discovery Harbour, <a href="#page104">104</a>, <a href="#page106">106</a>, <a href="#page112">112</a>;
+  &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; arrives at, <a href="#page347">347</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Distant, Cape, walk to, <a href="#page110">110</a>;
+  &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; passes, <a href="#page112">112</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Divine service, <a href="#page187">187</a>;
+  on Christmas day, <a href="#page195">195</a>;
+  before sledges start, <a href="#page258">258</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Dobbin Bay, <a href="#page83">83</a>, <a href="#page86">86</a>;
+  depôt at, <a href="#page84">84</a>, <a href="#page353">353</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Dock cut in the ice at Dobbin Bay, <a href="#page86">86</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Dockyard. (<i>See</i> Portsmouth.)</p>
+
+<p>Dog-driver. (<i>See</i> Petersen.)</p>
+
+<p>Dogs, Eskimo, <a href="#page29">29</a>, <a href="#page38">38</a>, <a href="#page78">78</a>, <a href="#page79">79</a>;
+  disease, <a href="#page79">79</a>;
+  wailing, <a href="#page88">88</a>;
+  habits, <a href="#page130">130</a>;
+  sledging, <a href="#page80">80</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a>;
+  dog &ldquo;Sallie&rdquo; lost and found, <a href="#page190">190</a>, <a href="#page191">191</a>;
+  alarm of during winter, <a href="#page199">199</a>;
+  nearly steal musk-ox beef, <a href="#page207">207</a>;
+  alarm caused by, <a href="#page210">210</a>;
+  regularly fed, <a href="#page210">210</a>;
+  team sent with sledge to &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page247">247</a>, <a href="#page255">255</a>;
+  trouble with, <a href="#page253">253</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Bruin, Sallie, Flo, Nellie.)</p>
+
+<p>Dovekies, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page101">101</a>, <a href="#page115">115</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Draba, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page340">340</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Dredging, <a href="#page25">25</a>, <a href="#page73">73</a>, <a href="#page102">102</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Driftwood, <a href="#page112">112</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Drip. (<i>See</i> Snow.)</p>
+
+<p>Drip, inconvenience of, in winter, <a href="#page182">182</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ducks. (<i>See</i> Birds.)</p>
+
+<p>Dumb-bell Bay, <a href="#page131">131</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Dundas Harbour, remains of Eskimos at, <a href="#page68">68</a>.</p>
+
+<p>D&rsquo;Urville, Cape, passed, <a href="#page83">83</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, visit to Arctic ships, <a href="#page8">8</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Egedesminde, offer of coals at, <a href="#page363">363</a>;
+  expedition at, <a href="#page364">364</a>, <a href="#page365">365</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Egerton, Lieut. George Le Clerc, R.N., officer of the watch when the ship touched the first ice, <a href="#page22">22</a>;
+  starts on autumn travelling, <a href="#page133">133</a>;
+  stage manager of the Royal Arctic Theatre, <a href="#page171">171</a>;
+  parts taken by, <a href="#page174">174</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>;
+  sails his sledge, <a href="#page231">231</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  sent to open communication with &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page247">247</a>;
+  his efforts to save Petersen, <a href="#page249">249</a> to <a href="#page254">254</a>;
+  second start for the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page255">255</a>;
+  sent to the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page345">345</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Eider ducks, <a href="#page131">131</a>, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Electricity, observations on, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ellesmere Land, <a href="#page50">50</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Eskimo, Frederic, <a href="#page29">29</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a>;
+  Hans Hendrick, <a href="#page39">39</a>, <a href="#page48">48</a>, <a href="#page354">354</a>;
+  pilot, <a href="#page42">42</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Dogs.)</p>
+
+<p>Eskimos, <a href="#page33">33</a>;
+  at Proven, <a href="#page38">38</a>;
+  Cape York, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  Etah, <a href="#page52">52</a>;
+  traces of, in Payer Harbour, <a href="#page58">58</a>;
+  in Twin-glacier Bay, <a href="#page61">61</a>, <a href="#page62">62</a>;
+  wanderings, <a href="#page67">67</a>, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  Admiral Sherard Osborn and Mr. Clements Markham on wanderings of, <a href="#page68">68</a>, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  remains on Capes Sabine, Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, Fraser, shores of Buchanan Strait, Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Isle, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  at Admiralty Inlet and Dundas Harbour, <a href="#page68">68</a>;
+  at Cape Beechey, <a href="#page69">69</a>, <a href="#page347">347</a>;
+  in Whale Sound, <a href="#page359">359</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Etah, native village, <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Eugénie, H.I.H. the Empress, present of woollen caps from, <a href="#page7">7</a>, <a href="#page236">236</a>, <a href="#page239">239</a>, <a href="#page287">287</a>;
+  visits the Arctic ships, <a href="#page8">8</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Exercise during winter, <a href="#page181">181</a>, <a href="#page187">187</a>;
+  for sledging crews, <a href="#page227">227</a>, <a href="#page228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Falcon, <a href="#page362">362</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Farewell banquets, <a href="#page8">8</a>;
+  to the expedition at Portsmouth, <a href="#page9">9</a>, <a href="#page10">10</a>, <a href="#page11">11</a>;
+  to the &ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo; <a href="#page35">35</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Farewell Cape, <a href="#page19">19</a>, <a href="#page23">23</a>, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Feilden, Captain, naturalist, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; ascends hill above Bessels Bay, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  visits Distant Cape, <a href="#page110">110</a>;
+  his lecture on geology, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  picks up skulls in Rawlings Bay, <a href="#page352">352</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Naturalist.)</p>
+
+<p>Ferbrache, Wm., sledge crew, N. division, symptoms of scurvy, <a href="#page306">306</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Figure-heads of the Arctic ships, <a href="#page4">4</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Finner whale, <a href="#page20">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fire, precautions against, fire-hole, <a href="#page160">160</a>, <a href="#page161">161</a>;
+  alarm of, <a href="#page226">226</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fishing on the Torske bank, <a href="#page25">25</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fiskernaes, expedition off, <a href="#page24">24</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fitting out the expedition, <a href="#page1">1</a> to <a href="#page8">8</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Flo,&rdquo; Eskimo dog, met with adrift, near Cape Joseph Henry, <a href="#page323">323</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Floes. (<i>See</i> Ice.)</p>
+
+<p>Floe-bergs, description of, <a href="#page114">114</a>;
+  &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; secured inside a fringe of, <a href="#page122">122</a>, <a href="#page125">125</a>;
+  split by intense cold, <a href="#page211">211</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Floe-berg Beach, depôt at, <a href="#page122">122</a>, <a href="#page124">124</a>;
+  desolate scene at, <a href="#page126">126</a>;
+  view from, <a href="#page127">127</a>;
+  winter quarters at, <a href="#page132">132</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Flowers. (<i>See</i> Vegetation.)</p>
+
+<p>Foot-ball on the ice, <a href="#page77">77</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Foot-gear, while sledging, <a href="#page260">260</a>, <a href="#page261">261</a>, <a href="#page268">268</a>, <a href="#page280">280</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Foraminifera brought up at the extreme north point, <a href="#page309">309</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fossils, collections in Bessels Bay, <a href="#page102">102</a>;
+  in the coal, <a href="#page350">350</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fossil plants, at Atanekerdluk, <a href="#page37">37</a>;
+  in the coal near Discovery Harbour, <a href="#page350">350</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Foulke Port, <a href="#page51">51</a>, <a href="#page56">56</a>, <a href="#page69">69</a>, <a href="#page330">330</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Foxes, traces of, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page107">107</a>;
+  fox shot, <a href="#page354">354</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fox trap, <a href="#page68">68</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Francombe, Reuben, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; parts and songs by, <a href="#page173">173</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Franklin Pierce Bay, <a href="#page72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fraser, Cape, <a href="#page55">55</a>, <a href="#page72">72</a>;
+  Eskimo remains on, <a href="#page68">68</a>;
+  passed by the ships, <a href="#page92">92</a>;
+  meeting of the tides, <a href="#page93">93</a>;
+  rounded, going south, <a href="#page353">353</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Frederick VII., Cape, ship in danger off, <a href="#page114">114</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Frederic, <a href="#page29">29</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Eskimo.)</p>
+
+<p>Freezing, experiments in, <a href="#page223">223</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fresh meat, <a href="#page186">186</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> musk-ox, hares, Brent geese.)</p>
+
+<p>Frost-bites, danger of, <a href="#page81">81</a>;
+  Petersen frost-bitten in the autumn, <a href="#page129">129</a>;
+  danger of, in autumn travelling, <a href="#page142">142</a>;
+  many frost-bites in return autumn journey, <a href="#page147">147</a>;
+  Lieut. May&rsquo;s severe frost-bite, <a href="#page148">148</a>;
+  other frost-bites and amputations, <a href="#page148">148</a>;
+  sufferers during the winter, <a href="#page198">198</a>;
+  precautions against, <a href="#page199">199</a>, <a href="#page208">208</a>;
+  on the dog sledge, in journey to &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Frost-bite Range,&rdquo; <a href="#page148">148</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Frozen ocean, <a href="#page200">200</a>, <a href="#page215">215</a>;
+  depôts cannot be laid out on, <a href="#page234">234</a>, <a href="#page244">244</a>;
+  difficulty of travelling over, <a href="#page242">242</a>;
+  movements of, <a href="#page242">242</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Palæocrystic Sea, Sledgings.)</p>
+
+<p>Fulmar petrels, <a href="#page361">361</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Gales of wind in the Atlantic, <a href="#page17">17</a>, <a href="#page18">18</a>;
+  in Smith Sound, <a href="#page59">59</a>;
+  in Robeson Channel, <a href="#page119">119</a>;
+  at Floe Berg Beach, <a href="#page124">124</a>;
+  furious gale during autumn travelling, <a href="#page133">133</a>, <a href="#page134">134</a>;
+  in winter quarters, <a href="#page205">205</a>, <a href="#page206">206</a>;
+  while sledging, <a href="#page282">282</a>, <a href="#page283">283</a>, <a href="#page285">285</a>, <a href="#page296">296</a>, <a href="#page297">297</a>;
+  on the voyage home, <a href="#page366">366</a>, <a href="#page367">367</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Geese. (<i>See</i> Brent.)</p>
+
+<p>Geology, lecture on, by Captain Feilden, <a href="#page169">169</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Geological collections, <a href="#page31">31</a>, <a href="#page102">102</a>, <a href="#page116">116</a>, <a href="#page350">350</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Fossils.)</p>
+
+<p>Geological formation, <a href="#page64">64</a>, <a href="#page67">67</a>, <a href="#page68">68</a>;
+  physical aspect of the coast lines, <a href="#page99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ger-falcon, <a href="#page362">362</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Giffard, Lieut. R.N., H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; magnetic observer, <a href="#page154">154</a>;
+  in charge of the printing, <a href="#page164">164</a> (<i>n.</i>), <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a>, <a href="#page215">215</a>, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  lecture on magnetism by, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  parts taken by, in theatricals, <a href="#page214">214</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, musicians on board ship of, <a href="#page7">7</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Glaciers: of Jacobshavn, <a href="#page32">32</a>;
+  of the Waigat, <a href="#page36">36</a>;
+  of Omenak fiord, <a href="#page38">38</a>;
+  near Cape York, Petowik, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  Crystal Palace, <a href="#page50">50</a>;
+  my brother John&rsquo;s (of Kane), <a href="#page52">52</a>;
+  twin glaciers, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page61">61</a>;
+  of Grinnell Land, <a href="#page64">64</a>, <a href="#page73">73</a>, <a href="#page83">83</a>;
+  in Bessels Bay, <a href="#page99">99</a>;
+  Tyndall, <a href="#page359">359</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Glaucous gulls, <a href="#page50">50</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Godhavn, arrival at, <a href="#page26">26</a>;
+  lovely weather at, <a href="#page33">33</a>;
+  hospitality of the people, <a href="#page33">33</a>, <a href="#page363">363</a>, <a href="#page364">364</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Godthaab, expedition off, <a href="#page24">24</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Good, Joseph, petty officer, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; song by, <a href="#page168">168</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Gore, Wm., stoker, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; song by, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Grampus, <a href="#page21">21</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Grand palæocrystic chorus, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Greenland, streams of ice, sweep down east coast of, <a href="#page23">23</a>;
+  coast of, <a href="#page25">25</a>;
+  natives on east coast, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  insularity of, argument from tides, <a href="#page92">92</a>;
+  distant view from Floe-berg Beach, <a href="#page128">128</a>;
+  exploration of northern coast, <a href="#page242">242</a>, <a href="#page346">346</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Greenwich,&rdquo; observatory at winter quarters so called, <a href="#page152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Grinnell Land, description of, <a href="#page67">67</a>, <a href="#page72">72</a>;
+  coast line, <a href="#page94">94</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Gulls, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page101">101</a>, <a href="#page332">332</a>, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Guy Fawkes&rsquo; day celebrated, <a href="#page179">179</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Hair frozen into solid masses, <a href="#page209">209</a>;
+  effect of sledge travelling on colour of, <a href="#page334">334</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hakluyt Island, <a href="#page50">50</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hall Basin, <a href="#page100">100</a>, <a href="#page101">101</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Haloes, <a href="#page200">200</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hannah Island, ships anchored inside, <a href="#page100">100</a>;
+  visit to, <a href="#page101">101</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hans Egede, <a href="#page24">24</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hans Hendrik, Eskimo engaged at Proven, <a href="#page39">39</a>;
+  endeavour to engage his brother-in-law, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  seal shot by, <a href="#page354">354</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hares, traces of, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page107">107</a>;
+  at &ldquo;Alert&rsquo;s&rdquo; winter quarters, <a href="#page211">211</a>;
+  traces of, on the Polar Sea, <a href="#page296">296</a>, <a href="#page314">314</a>;
+  left by Captain Nares for N. division, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  shot, going south, <a href="#page345">345</a>, <a href="#page351">351</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Harmonium, obtained from the &ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo; at church, <a href="#page187">187</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hartstene Bay, arrival at, <a href="#page51">51</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hawks, Cape, <a href="#page83">83</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hayes, Dr., <a href="#page51">51</a>, <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#page72">72</a>, <a href="#page73">73</a>, <a href="#page85">85</a>, <a href="#page99">99</a>, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hayes, Cape, Eskimo remains on, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  ascent of, <a href="#page90">90</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hayes Sound, <a href="#page60">60</a>;
+  tides in, <a href="#page62">62</a>;
+  intended exploration, <a href="#page330">330</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Henry Island of Hayes, not an island, <a href="#page64">64</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Hercules,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, Lieut. W. H. May, R.N., <a href="#page137">137</a>, <a href="#page217">217</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hilgard, Cape, Eskimo remains on, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hoskins, Commodore A. H., sledging flagstaff presented by, <a href="#page307">307</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Housing for winter quarters, <a href="#page154">154</a>, <a href="#page155">155</a>, <a href="#page156">156</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company&rsquo;s Taboggans, suitable in soft snow, <a href="#page281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hummocks, difficulty of marching over, on the Polar Sea, <a href="#page278">278</a>, <a href="#page279">279</a>, <a href="#page281">281</a>, <a href="#page284">284</a>, <a href="#page301">301</a>;
+  discoloured by mud, <a href="#page301">301</a>;
+  great barrier of, <a href="#page303">303</a>;
+  great size, <a href="#page304">304</a>, <a href="#page305">305</a>;
+  different colours of, <a href="#page316">316</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hunt, Wm., ward-room cook, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; songs by, <a href="#page214">214</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Hydrostatics, lecture on, by Lieut. May, <a href="#page169">169</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Ice, first seen, <a href="#page22">22</a>;
+  stream of, near Cape Farewell, <a href="#page23">23</a>;
+  the middle pack, <a href="#page44">44</a>, <a href="#page45">45</a>;
+  dangers, <a href="#page65">65</a>, <a href="#page66">66</a>;
+  occupations when detained by, <a href="#page66">66</a>;
+  ships stopped by, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page65">65</a>, <a href="#page73">73</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page90">90</a>, <a href="#page95">95</a>, <a href="#page103">103</a>, <a href="#page110">110</a>, <a href="#page113">113</a>, <a href="#page121">121</a>, <a href="#page344">344</a>;
+  amusements on the, <a href="#page77">77</a>;
+  dock cut in the, <a href="#page86">86</a>;
+  great height of, <a href="#page89">89</a>;
+  increasing thickness, <a href="#page96">96</a>;
+  extending across Hall Basin, <a href="#page100">100</a>;
+  pressure on Cape Frederick VII., <a href="#page114">114</a>;
+  of the Polar Ocean, <a href="#page127">127</a>, <a href="#page147">147</a>, <a href="#page200">200</a>;
+  the dangerous state of the, in autumn travelling, <a href="#page141">141</a>;
+  movement of, during winter, <a href="#page184">184</a>;
+  character of, in travelling over the Polar Ocean, <a href="#page284">284</a>, <a href="#page291">291</a>, <a href="#page300">300</a>;
+  symptoms of disruption, <a href="#page315">315</a>, <a href="#page320">320</a>;
+  state of, on the voyage southward, <a href="#page344">344</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Palæocrystic, Blasting, Floe-bergs, Hummocks.)</p>
+
+<p>Ice navigation, most important maxim in, <a href="#page45">45</a>;
+  uncertainty of, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page64">64</a>;
+  qualities required for, <a href="#page82">82</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Icebergs first sighted, <a href="#page22">22</a>;
+  constantly seen, <a href="#page23">23</a>;
+  in Disco Bay, <a href="#page32">32</a>, <a href="#page34">34</a>;
+  danger from, in the Waigat, <a href="#page38">38</a>;
+  indicate shoal water, <a href="#page60">60</a>;
+  danger from, off Albert Head, <a href="#page65">65</a>;
+  ships endangered by, <a href="#page91">91</a>;
+  number decreasing, <a href="#page96">96</a>;
+  innumerable, <a href="#page359">359</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Independence, Cape, of Kane, <a href="#page98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Insects collected, <a href="#page351">351</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Isabella, Cape, <a href="#page356">356</a>, <a href="#page357">357</a>;
+  Captain Markham lands at, <a href="#page56">56</a>, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page95">95</a>;
+  letters at, <a href="#page358">358</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Itivdliarsuk glacier, <a href="#page36">36</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ivory gull, <a href="#page46">46</a>, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page101">101</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Jacobshavn, glacier of, <a href="#page32">32</a>.</p>
+
+<p>John Barrow, Cape, <a href="#page93">93</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Jolliffe, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; in N. division sledge party, holds out to the end, <a href="#page326">326</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Joseph Henry, Cape, <a href="#page127">127</a>;
+  Aldrich starts for, in the autumn, <a href="#page136">136</a>;
+  depôt near, <a href="#page147">147</a>;
+  dog &ldquo;Sallie&rdquo; lost at, <a href="#page190">190</a>;
+  arrival of sledges at, <a href="#page263">263</a>;
+  floes off, <a href="#page282">282</a>;
+  encamped abreast of, <a href="#page285">285</a>;
+  description of, <a href="#page285">285</a>;
+  northern division of sledges reaches, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  last seen, <a href="#page343">343</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Kane, Dr., his open polar sea, <a href="#page72">72</a>, <a href="#page98">98</a>, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Kardluk Point, in the Waigat, <a href="#page36">36</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Kayak, difficulty of using, <a href="#page30">30</a>;
+  adventure of Mr. Wootton, <a href="#page30">30</a>;
+  Eskimo pilot in, <a href="#page43">43</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Kennedy Channel crossed, <a href="#page103">103</a>;
+  musk-oxen on east side of, <a href="#page103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Kew,&rdquo; magnetic observatory at winter quarters so called, <a href="#page154">154</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Kew Observatory, thermometer tested at, <a href="#page223">223</a>.</p>
+
+<p>King ducks, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page332">332</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Knapsacks, sledging, contents, <a href="#page235">235</a>, <a href="#page236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Knots, seen and secured at Distant Cape, <a href="#page110">110</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Lady Franklin Inlet, <a href="#page103">103</a>, <a href="#page111">111</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lafayette Bay (of Kane), <a href="#page98">98</a>, <a href="#page99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lancaster Sound, geology, <a href="#page67">67</a>;
+  remains of Eskimo on shores of, <a href="#page68">68</a>;
+  &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; off mouth of, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lemmings, traces of, <a href="#page107">107</a>;
+  description, <a href="#page115">115</a>, <a href="#page116">116</a>;
+  eaten by &ldquo;Nellie,&rdquo; <a href="#page212">212</a>;
+  traces away from the land, <a href="#page278">278</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Letters at Cape Isabella, <a href="#page358">358</a>;
+  at Godhavn, <a href="#page363">363</a>;
+  at Littleton Island, <a href="#page358">358</a>, <a href="#page362">362</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lieber, Cape, <a href="#page102">102</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lievely, <a href="#page26">26</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Godhavn.)</p>
+
+<p>Life-boat Cove, visit to, <a href="#page53">53</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Light, lecture on, by Lieut. Parr, R.N., <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  return of, <a href="#page207">207</a>, <a href="#page225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lime-juice, regular daily issue of, <a href="#page16">16</a>;
+  impossibility of using, while in a frozen state, away sledging, <a href="#page238">238</a>;
+  taken on the sledges by Commander Markham and Lieut. Parr, <a href="#page238">238</a>;
+  served out to sledge crew by Commander Markham, <a href="#page305">305</a>;
+  useless unless the whole volume is thawed, <a href="#page305">305</a>;
+  its use in the treatment of scurvy, <a href="#page329">329</a>;
+  used on all sledge journeys when its use was possible, <a href="#page330">330</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lincoln Bay, <a href="#page115">115</a>;
+  coast between, and Cape Union, <a href="#page121">121</a>;
+  depôt, <a href="#page117">117</a>, <a href="#page248">248</a>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Little Vulgar Boy</i>, play acted by the officers, <a href="#page214">214</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Littleton Island, visit of Captain Nares and Commander Markham to, <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#page55">55</a>;
+  not visited, going south, <a href="#page358">358</a>;
+  mail at, <a href="#page358">358</a>, <a href="#page362">362</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Looms (<i>see</i> Birds), <a href="#page40">40</a>, <a href="#page41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Loom soup, <a href="#page40">40</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Louis Napoleon, Cape, Eskimo remains at, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  passed by the ships, <a href="#page90">90</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lyngenmarkfjeld, in Disco, ascent of, <a href="#page31">31</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">M&lsquo;Clintock, Admiral Sir Leopold, sledge of, the best, <a href="#page281">281</a>;
+  superintends outfit of expedition, <a href="#page2">2</a>;
+  his detention in the Melville Bay pack, <a href="#page44">44</a>;
+  sledge equipments superintended by, <a href="#page231">231</a>;
+  on the absurdity of taking frozen lime-juice on sledges, <a href="#page238">238</a>;
+  tea-leaves recommended by, <a href="#page316">316</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Magnetic observations, <a href="#page31">31</a>;
+  while sledging, <a href="#page73">73</a>, <a href="#page180">180</a>, <a href="#page305">305</a>;
+  snow observatory for, <a href="#page152">152</a>, <a href="#page153">153</a>, <a href="#page209">209</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Magnetism, lecture on, by Lieutenant Giffard, R.N., <a href="#page169">169</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Marco Polo,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, <a href="#page137">137</a>, <a href="#page217">217</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Marine shells found above sea-level, <a href="#page116">116</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Markham, Commander Albert H., R.N., visit to Littleton Island, <a href="#page53">53</a>;
+  to Cape Isabella, <a href="#page56">56</a>;
+  to Hannah Island, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  to Distant Cape, <a href="#page110">110</a>;
+  starts on an autumn reconnaissance, <a href="#page128">128</a>;
+  starts on second autumn sledge journey, <a href="#page133">133</a>;
+  on main autumn sledge journey, <a href="#page137">137</a>, <a href="#page144">144</a>;
+  in charge of magnetic observations, <a href="#page154">154</a>;
+  lecture on astronomy, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  parts taken by, <a href="#page174">174</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>;
+  followed by a wolf, <a href="#page228">228</a>;
+  takes lime-juice on his sledge, <a href="#page238">238</a>;
+  in command of the northern division of sledges, <a href="#page242">242</a>, <a href="#page311">311</a>;
+  attains the most northern point ever reached by man, <a href="#page309">309</a>, <a href="#page311">311</a>;
+  resolves to abandon large boat, <a href="#page288">288</a>, <a href="#page289">289</a>;
+  serves out lime-juice, <a href="#page305">305</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Markham, Clements, on Eskimo wanderings, <a href="#page68">68</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Clements Markham.)</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Markham Hall,&rdquo; storehouse at winter quarters, <a href="#page152">152</a>;
+  demolition of, <a href="#page210">210</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Maskell, William, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; songs by, <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  parts taken by, <a href="#page174">174</a>;
+  sledge crew, N. division, holds out to the end, <a href="#page317">317</a>, <a href="#page318">318</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>May, Lieutenant W. H., R.N., starts on autumn travelling, <a href="#page137">137</a>;
+  severely frost-bitten, <a href="#page147">147</a>;
+  suffers amputation, <a href="#page148">148</a>;
+  astronomical observer, <a href="#page152">152</a>;
+  his lecture on hydrostatics, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  manager of the theatre, <a href="#page214">214</a>;
+  glee sung by, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  sails his sledge, <a href="#page231">231</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  comes to the rescue of the northern division, <a href="#page325">325</a>;
+  goes to succour Aldrich&rsquo;s party, <a href="#page331">331</a>, <a href="#page332">332</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Medical staff, their tests of the physical capacity of the officers and men, <a href="#page15">15</a>;
+  unremitting care of the sick, <a href="#page333">333</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Medical inspections, <a href="#page187">187</a>, <a href="#page204">204</a>, <a href="#page258">258</a>, <a href="#page326">326</a>, <a href="#page337">337</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Medical stores for sledges, <a href="#page238">238</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  weight, <a href="#page233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Medical instructions to commanders of sledges, <a href="#page238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Melville Bay, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page44">44</a>;
+  passage through, <a href="#page44">44</a>;
+  bear hunt in, <a href="#page46">46</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Melville Island, remains of Eskimo at, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  musk-oxen at, <a href="#page106">106</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Men of the expedition, selection of, <a href="#page4">4</a>;
+  tests of physical capacity, <a href="#page15">15</a>;
+  regular daily issue of lime-juice to, <a href="#page16">16</a>;
+  always reliable in an emergency, <a href="#page125">125</a>;
+  sufferings and excellent conduct in autumn travelling, <a href="#page134">134</a>, <a href="#page145">145</a>;
+  their good humour and wit, <a href="#page146">146</a>;
+  frost-bites and amputations, <a href="#page148">148</a>;
+  clothing during winter, <a href="#page159">159</a>, <a href="#page160">160</a>;
+  school for, in winter, <a href="#page166">166</a>, <a href="#page167">167</a>, <a href="#page213">213</a>;
+  theatricals, <a href="#page171">171</a>, <a href="#page173">173</a>;
+  Christmas cheer, <a href="#page195">195</a>;
+  fondness for dancing, <a href="#page195">195</a>, <a href="#page197">197</a>, <a href="#page204">204</a>;
+  excellent health, <a href="#page204">204</a>;
+  paleness on return of sun, <a href="#page211">211</a>;
+  heroic conduct while sledging, <a href="#page277">277</a>, <a href="#page286">286</a>, <a href="#page287">287</a>, <a href="#page291">291</a>, <a href="#page302">302</a>, <a href="#page310">310</a>, <a href="#page311">311</a>, <a href="#page313">313</a>, <a href="#page316">316</a>, <a href="#page352">352</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Meteor, brilliant, seen at winter quarters, <a href="#page201">201</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Meteorites at Ovifak, <a href="#page31">31</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Meteorological observations, <a href="#page162">162</a>, <a href="#page180">180</a>, <a href="#page183">183</a>, <a href="#page223">223</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Middle pack, Captain Nares&rsquo;s resolve to take the, <a href="#page44">44</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Miocene Period, coal of, discovered, <a href="#page347">347</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Mollies, <a href="#page361">361</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Moon, <a href="#page181">181</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Paraselenæ.)</p>
+
+<p>Moravian missionaries, <a href="#page24">24</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Morton, Cape, <a href="#page100">100</a>, <a href="#page102">102</a>;
+  depôt of, <a href="#page100">100</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Morton, Mr., his &ldquo;open polar sea,&rdquo; <a href="#page93">93</a>;
+  description of Cape Constitution, accurate, <a href="#page98">98</a>;
+  unable to ascend cliff, <a href="#page98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Mosquitoes, plague in Greenland, <a href="#page32">32</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Moss, Dr., surgeon, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; reading by, <a href="#page168">168</a>;
+  lecture on mock moons under the microscope, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  makes a balloon on Guy Fawkes&rsquo; day, <a href="#page180">180</a>;
+  paints scenery for theatre, <a href="#page171">171</a>;
+  succours the northern division, <a href="#page326">326</a>;
+  sketch for bill of fare by, <a href="#page335">335</a>;
+  paints the boats, <a href="#page245">245</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Murchison Sound, <a href="#page50">50</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Musical instruments, <a href="#page7">7</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Harmonium, Piano.)</p>
+
+<p>Musicians in the ships of Sir H. Gilbert and John Davis, <a href="#page7">7</a>, <a href="#page8">8</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Musk-oxen, traces of, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page61">61</a>;
+  hunting, <a href="#page104">104</a>;
+  range of, <a href="#page106">106</a>;
+  traces in Discovery Harbour, <a href="#page107">107</a>;
+  beef presented by &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; to &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page108">108</a>;
+  hunt in Shift-Rudder Bay, <a href="#page113">113</a>;
+  quantity of meat from, <a href="#page186">186</a>, <a href="#page204">204</a>;
+  meat nearly stolen by dogs, <a href="#page207">207</a>;
+  in the summer, <a href="#page338">338</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Mustard and cress grown in the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; <a href="#page205">205</a>, <a href="#page211">211</a>, <a href="#page345">345</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Nares, Captain George S., R.N., resolves to take the middle pack, <a href="#page44">44</a>;
+  visits Life-boat Cove and Littleton Island, <a href="#page53">53</a>;
+  constant vigilance, <a href="#page66">66</a>;
+  visits Hannah Isle, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  ascends hill above Cape Morton, <a href="#page102">102</a>;
+  selects winter quarters for &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page107">107</a>;
+  observes opening in the pack, <a href="#page114">114</a>;
+  catches a lemming, <a href="#page115">115</a>;
+  desirous of finding a more sheltered spot for winter quarters, <a href="#page128">128</a>, <a href="#page135">135</a>;
+  his account of sledge travelling, <a href="#page140">140</a>;
+  lecture on astronomy, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  gives name to the Palæocrystic Sea, <a href="#page200">200</a>;
+  excellent health and spirits of those under his command at the commencement of the New Year, <a href="#page204">204</a>;
+  lecture on sledging experiences, <a href="#page215">215</a>;
+  arrangement for opening communication with &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page246">246</a>;
+  unjust attack upon, regarding lime-juice, <a href="#page237">237</a>;
+  absurdity of the charge against him, <a href="#page238">238</a>;
+  his Union Jack taken with northern division, <a href="#page258">258</a>;
+  at Cape Joseph Henry Depôt, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  leaves hares for northern division, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  comes to the relief of the northern division, <a href="#page325">325</a>, <a href="#page327">327</a>;
+  decision to return home, <a href="#page337">337</a>, <a href="#page346">346</a>;
+  anxiety for safety of Beaumont, <a href="#page349">349</a>;
+  accepts offer of coal at Egedesminde, <a href="#page363">363</a>;
+  lands at Valentia, <a href="#page367">367</a>;
+  satisfaction of the Admiralty with his conduct of the Expedition, <a href="#page368">368</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Narwhal hunting, <a href="#page59">59</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Naturalist, zeal in a gale of wind, <a href="#page19">19</a>;
+  visit to Ovifak, <a href="#page31">31</a>;
+  finds Eskimo remains at Cape Beechey, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  ascends hill in Bessels Bay, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  at distant Cape, <a href="#page110">110</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Feilden, Captain.)</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Nellie,&rdquo; Commander Markham&rsquo;s black retriever, coveted by Eskimos at Proven, <a href="#page39">39</a>;
+  dislike of Eskimo dogs, <a href="#page78">78</a>;
+  surprise at the tabogganing, <a href="#page188">188</a>;
+  stood the cold well, <a href="#page188">188</a>, <a href="#page189">189</a>;
+  adventure with, in the unifilar house, <a href="#page209">209</a>, <a href="#page210">210</a>;
+  eats the lemmings, <a href="#page212">212</a>;
+  followed by a wolf, <a href="#page228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Nelson, Lord, an old Arctic officer, <a href="#page179">179</a>.</p>
+
+<p>New Year&rsquo;s day, <a href="#page202">202</a>, <a href="#page203">203</a>, <a href="#page204">204</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Nip, preparations for, <a href="#page65">65</a>, <a href="#page71">71</a>, <a href="#page83">83</a>;
+  off Cape M&lsquo;Clintock, <a href="#page94">94</a>;
+  south of Cape Beechey, <a href="#page348">348</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Ice.)</p>
+
+<p>Norman-Lockyer Island, Eskimo remains on, <a href="#page69">69</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>;
+  visited, <a href="#page73">73</a>.</p>
+
+<p>North extreme, camp, <a href="#page307">307</a>, <a href="#page308">308</a>;
+  farthest point ever reached, <a href="#page309">309</a>, <a href="#page311">311</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;North Water,&rdquo; of Baffin Bay, <a href="#page47">47</a>;
+  of Smith Sound, <a href="#page72">72</a>, <a href="#page97">97</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Northumberland Island, <a href="#page50">50</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Norton Shaw Cape, passed by the ships, <a href="#page94">94</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Observations, scientific, in winter quarters, <a href="#page180">180</a>;
+  difficulties, <a href="#page180">180</a>;
+  while sledging, <a href="#page305">305</a>;
+  at farthest northern point, <a href="#page307">307</a>, <a href="#page310">310</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Magnetic, Meteorological, Astronomical.)</p>
+
+<p>Observatories, wooden, for transit instrument, <a href="#page152">152</a>;
+  magnetic, <a href="#page154">154</a>;
+  dismantling of, <a href="#page227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Officers, selection, <a href="#page4">4</a>;
+  tests of physical capacity, <a href="#page15">15</a>;
+  amusements, <a href="#page167">167</a>;
+  lectures by, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  theatricals, <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page173">173</a>;
+  scientific observations, <a href="#page180">180</a>;
+  birthdays celebrated, <a href="#page184">184</a>;
+  Christmas, bill of fare for, <a href="#page196">196</a>;
+  approval of decision of Captain Nares to return, <a href="#page337">337</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> under names.)</p>
+
+<p>Omenak fiord, discharging glaciers in, <a href="#page38">38</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Orchestra, Royal Arctic Theatre, <a href="#page171">171</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Osborn, Rear-Admiral Sherard, C.B., dedication to, v.;
+  on Eskimo wanderings, <a href="#page68">68</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ovifak, visit of naturalist to, <a href="#page31">31</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Pack. (<i>See</i> Ice.)</p>
+
+<p>Palæocrystic Sea, name given, <a href="#page200">200</a>, <a href="#page234">234</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Frozen Ocean.)</p>
+
+<p>Palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel, <a href="#page92">92</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a>, <a href="#page118">118</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Palæocrystic grand chorus, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  sung at the most northern position ever reached by man, <a href="#page310">310</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Pandora&rdquo; brings letters to Cape Isabella, <a href="#page358">358</a>;
+  at Godhavn, <a href="#page363">363</a>;
+  sighted in the Atlantic, <a href="#page366">366</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Paraselenæ, <a href="#page181">181</a>, <a href="#page200">200</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Parr, Lieut. A. C. C., R.N., ascends the hill above Bessels Bay, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  starts on autumn travelling, <a href="#page133">133</a>, <a href="#page137">137</a>, <a href="#page144">144</a>;
+  sledge goes through the ice, <a href="#page144">144</a>;
+  in charge of astronomical observatory, <a href="#page152">152</a>;
+  lecture on light by, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  takes lime-juice on his sledge, <a href="#page238">238</a>;
+  an indefatigable road-maker, <a href="#page286">286</a>;
+  sent to the ship for help, <a href="#page322">322</a>, <a href="#page325">325</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Parry, Sir Edward, his farthest northern point passed, <a href="#page150">150</a>;
+  his sense of the importance of exercising and improving the minds of the men in winter quarters, <a href="#page163">163</a>, <a href="#page166">166</a>;
+  attempt to reach the pole, <a href="#page243">243</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Parry Islands, Eskimo remains on shores of, <a href="#page68">68</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Payer Harbour, <a href="#page58">58</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Pearce, Alfred, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; songs by, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  severely frost-bitten, <a href="#page286">286</a>;
+  attacked by scurvy, <a href="#page289">289</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Pemmican, <a href="#page237">237</a>, <a href="#page270">270</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Pendulum Islands, Eskimos met with near, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Petermann fiord, <a href="#page100">100</a>;
+  fine view of, <a href="#page103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Petersen, Danish dog-driver, autumn travelling, <a href="#page128">128</a>, <a href="#page129">129</a>;
+  starts for &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page248">248</a>;
+  frost-bitten, <a href="#page248">248</a>;
+  efforts to save his life, <a href="#page248">248</a> to <a href="#page254">254</a>;
+  brought back to the ship, <a href="#page254">254</a>;
+  death of, <a href="#page255">255</a>, <a href="#page321">321</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Petowick glacier, <a href="#page48">48</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Photographing at Godhavn, <a href="#page31">31</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Pinkey and Collins&rsquo; patent topsails, <a href="#page3">3</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Plants, <a href="#page31">31</a>, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page107">107</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Vegetation.)</p>
+
+<p>Plays. (<i>See</i> Theatricals.)</p>
+
+<p>Play-bills, <a href="#page173">173</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Plymouth, visit from Commander-in-Chief, <a href="#page11">11</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Polar Ocean, <a href="#page122">122</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a>, <a href="#page215">215</a>, <a href="#page234">234</a>, <a href="#page242">242</a>;
+  Parry&rsquo;s attempt to sledge over, <a href="#page243">243</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  march of the northern division over, <a href="#page276">276</a>, <a href="#page311">311</a> (<i>see</i> Hummocks), <a href="#page285">285</a>, <a href="#page301">301</a>;
+  young ice, <a href="#page296">296</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Polaris Bay, <a href="#page100">100</a>;
+  state of lime-juice found in, <a href="#page305">305</a>;
+  sledge-crew recruiting at, <a href="#page346">346</a>, <a href="#page349">349</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Polaris,&rdquo; visit to her second winter quarters, <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#page54">54</a>;
+  her cruise, <a href="#page72">72</a>;
+  Dr. Bessels of, <a href="#page92">92</a>, <a href="#page99">99</a>;
+  land seen from, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  musk-ox shot by crew of, <a href="#page106">106</a>;
+  Eskimo kind to crew of, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Polarization of light, observations, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Poppie,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, Lieut. Giffard, <a href="#page217">217</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Poppies, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Popular entertainments in winter quarters, <a href="#page168">168</a>, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  programmes, <a href="#page175">175</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Portsmouth Dockyard, ships fitting out at, <a href="#page1">1</a>;
+  harbour, departure of expedition from, <a href="#page9">9</a>, <a href="#page10">10</a>;
+  return to, <a href="#page368">368</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Potentillas, <a href="#page340">340</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Prayers, <a href="#page187">187</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Divine service.)</p>
+
+<p>Presents to the expedition, <a href="#page6">6</a>, <a href="#page7">7</a>, <a href="#page193">193</a>, <a href="#page194">194</a>.</p>
+
+<p>President Land has no existence, <a href="#page101">101</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Prince Patrick Island, heavy pack on west coast of, <a href="#page200">200</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Prince Regent Inlet, formation of cliffs, <a href="#page64">64</a>, <a href="#page67">67</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Printing office in winter quarters, <a href="#page164">164</a>, <a href="#page165">165</a>;
+  prospectus, <a href="#page164">164</a>;
+  bills of fare, <a href="#page185">185</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Prologue, Royal Arctic Theatre, <a href="#page172">172</a>, <a href="#page173">173</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Protococcus nivalis, <a href="#page48">48</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Proven, arrival at, <a href="#page38">38</a>;
+  survey of, <a href="#page39">39</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Provisions for sledging, weight, <a href="#page233">233</a>;
+  scale, <a href="#page237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ptarmigan, <a href="#page225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Pullen, Rev. W. H., chaplain, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; glees by, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  lecture on Arctic plants, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  author of the prologue, <a href="#page171">171</a>, <a href="#page172">172</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a>;
+  leads the choir, <a href="#page187">187</a>;
+  Christmas bill of fare by, <a href="#page196">196</a>;
+  lines on the New Year by, <a href="#page202">202</a>;
+  a burlesque operetta written by, <a href="#page214">214</a>;
+  grand chorus composed by, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  service on departure of sledges, <a href="#page258">258</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>;
+  lines welcoming return of sledges by, <a href="#page336">336</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Queenstown, rendezvous at, <a href="#page367">367</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Radmore, John, chief carpenter&rsquo;s mate, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; sledge crew in northern division, holds out against scurvy, <a href="#page318">318</a>;
+  to the last, <a href="#page326">326</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Radmore Harbour, Eskimo&rsquo;s remains at, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rainbow, <a href="#page325">325</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rawlings, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; captain of sledge, northern division, attacked by scurvy, <a href="#page306">306</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rawlings Bay, <a href="#page352">352</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, R.N., joins the &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; from the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page108">108</a>;
+  visits Distant Cape, <a href="#page110">110</a>;
+  glees by, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  parts taken in theatricals by, <a href="#page174">174</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>;
+  skill in tabogganing, <a href="#page187">187</a>;
+  visit to snow hut built by, <a href="#page212">212</a>;
+  accompanies Egerton on journey to &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page247">247</a>;
+  his efforts to save Petersen, <a href="#page249">249</a> to <a href="#page254">254</a>;
+  arrives from &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page346">346</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rawson Cape, <a href="#page219">219</a>, <a href="#page343">343</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Records left at Cape Isabella, <a href="#page57">57</a>;
+  in cairn on Hannah Island, <a href="#page101">101</a>;
+  at extreme northern point, <a href="#page312">312</a>;
+  at Cairn Point (winter quarters), <a href="#page341">341</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Reindeer, Port Foulke, <a href="#page52">52</a>;
+  traces, <a href="#page60">60</a>;
+  scarce near Egedesminde, <a href="#page365">365</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Retrospect on New Year&rsquo;s day, <a href="#page197">197</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Reward for crossing <a href="#page83">83</a>rd parallel, <a href="#page292">292</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Richardson Bay, <a href="#page99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Right whales, <a href="#page21">21</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rink, Dr., on the Eskimo, <a href="#page33">33</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ritenbenk, expedition at, <a href="#page34">34</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Road-making on the ice, <a href="#page273">273</a>, <a href="#page275">275</a>, <a href="#page277">277</a>, <a href="#page279">279</a>, <a href="#page286">286</a>, <a href="#page292">292</a>, <a href="#page294">294</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Robeson Channel, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  view of, <a href="#page110">110</a>;
+  position on American chart not to be recognized, <a href="#page115">115</a>;
+  palæocrystic floes of, <a href="#page118">118</a>;
+  examination of fiords, <a href="#page242">242</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rorqual whale, <a href="#page21">21</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ross, Sir John, Arctic highlanders of, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  red snow, <a href="#page48">48</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rotges, or little auks, <a href="#page46">46</a>, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Royal Arctic Theatre, <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page170">170</a>;
+  prologue, <a href="#page172">172</a>;
+  plays, <a href="#page173">173</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Rudder, arrangement for unshipping, <a href="#page3">3</a>;
+  head damaged, <a href="#page67">67</a>;
+  unshipped for a nip, <a href="#page83">83</a>;
+  seriously injured, <a href="#page113">113</a>;
+  shifted, <a href="#page113">113</a>;
+  frequent necessity for unshipping, <a href="#page344">344</a>;
+  head badly wrenched, <a href="#page344">344</a>, <a href="#page351">351</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Sabine, Cape, <a href="#page55">55</a>, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page59">59</a>;
+  Eskimo remains on, <a href="#page69">69</a>;
+  passed, going south, <a href="#page356">356</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sails for sledges, <a href="#page231">231</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Sallie&rdquo; suspected of robbing Rawson&rsquo;s depôt, <a href="#page213">213</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Dogs.)</p>
+
+<p>Salt beef, character of, <a href="#page154">154</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Sanderson, his hope,&rdquo; shooting looms at, <a href="#page40">40</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sanitary condition of the men in winter quarters, <a href="#page187">187</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Saxifrage, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page340">340</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Scenery of Greenland, <a href="#page24">24</a>;
+  from Disco, <a href="#page31">31</a>;
+  in Disco Bay, <a href="#page35">35</a>;
+  in the Waigat, <a href="#page36">36</a>;
+  near Cape York, <a href="#page48">48</a>, <a href="#page50">50</a>;
+  of the glaciers, <a href="#page60">60</a>;
+  off Cape Hawks, <a href="#page83">83</a>;
+  at winter quarters, <a href="#page126">126</a>;
+  at the extreme northern point, <a href="#page310">310</a>, <a href="#page311">311</a>.</p>
+
+<p>School in winter quarters, <a href="#page165">165</a>, <a href="#page166">166</a>;
+  last assemblage of, <a href="#page213">213</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Scientific observations in winter quarters, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Scoresby on the size of the rorqual, <a href="#page21">21</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Scoresby Bay, <a href="#page94">94</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Scurvy, <a href="#page237">237</a>;
+  premonitory symptoms, <a href="#page284">284</a>, <a href="#page285">285</a>;
+  dread of, <a href="#page299">299</a>;
+  increasing symptoms, <a href="#page303">303</a>, <a href="#page304">304</a>, <a href="#page305">305</a>, <a href="#page313">313</a>;
+  decrease of appetite, <a href="#page314">314</a>;
+  extreme weakness, <a href="#page317">317</a>;
+  outbreak on board the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  true causes of the outbreak, <a href="#page329">329</a>, <a href="#page330">330</a>;
+  cure of patients, <a href="#page333">333</a>, <a href="#page339">339</a>, <a href="#page345">345</a>;
+  patients convalescent, <a href="#page365">365</a>;
+  outbreak in sledge crews of &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page346">346</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Seals basking on the ice, <a href="#page24">24</a>, <a href="#page45">45</a>;
+  shot by Hans, <a href="#page354">354</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Selection of officers and men for Arctic service, <a href="#page4">4</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Self, James, A.B., H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; songs by, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Shells, marine, found above sea-level, <a href="#page116">116</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Shift-Rudder Bay, <a href="#page114">114</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Shirley, John, stoker, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; songs by, <a href="#page168">168</a>;
+  attacked by scurvy, <a href="#page282">282</a>;
+  on the sledge, <a href="#page284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Shooting parties in summer, <a href="#page338">338</a> to <a href="#page340">340</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sick. (<i>See</i> Scurvy.)</p>
+
+<p>Simpson, Thos., H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; in sledge crew, northern division, attacked by scurvy, <a href="#page306">306</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Skating, <a href="#page77">77</a>, <a href="#page110">110</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sky, beauty of, <a href="#page83">83</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Meteor, Sun.)</p>
+
+<p>Sledges, description of, <a href="#page231">231</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  sails for, <a href="#page231">231</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  weight, <a href="#page233">233</a>;
+  boats on, <a href="#page242">242</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  required for northern division, <a href="#page244">244</a>;
+  dog sledge sent to &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; <a href="#page247">247</a>;
+  departure of sledges in the spring, <a href="#page257">257</a>, <a href="#page258">258</a>;
+  sledge standards, <a href="#page258">258</a>;
+  art of packing, <a href="#page277">277</a>;
+  high-runner sledges the best, <a href="#page281">281</a>;
+  (<i>See</i> Dogs, Marco Polo, Hercules, Victoria, Bloodhound, Bulldog, Alexandra, Challenger, Poppie, Clements Markham.)</p>
+
+<p>Sledge crews, exercise of, <a href="#page227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sledging, first lessons in <a href="#page58">58</a>;
+  with dogs, <a href="#page79">79</a>, <a href="#page80">80</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a>;
+  first experiences, <a href="#page129">129</a>;
+  severe work, <a href="#page133">133</a>;
+  details of, <a href="#page137">137</a>;
+  shore-going notions of, <a href="#page138">138</a>;
+  realities, <a href="#page139">139</a>;
+  lecture on, by Captain Nares, <a href="#page215">215</a>;
+  grand palæocrystic chorus, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  preparations for, during the winter, <a href="#page230">230</a>;
+  equipments superintended by Sir Leopold M&lsquo;Clintock, <a href="#page231">231</a>;
+  weights, <a href="#page233">233</a>;
+  auxiliaries and depôts, <a href="#page234">234</a>;
+  tents, <a href="#page235">235</a>;
+  cooking apparatus, <a href="#page235">235</a>;
+  contents of knapsack and storebag, <a href="#page237">237</a>;
+  scale of provisions, <a href="#page237">237</a>;
+  medical stores, <a href="#page238">238</a> (<i>n.</i>);
+  clothing, <a href="#page239">239</a>, <a href="#page240">240</a>;
+  programme of sledding, operations, <a href="#page241">241</a>;
+  the first encampment, <a href="#page260">260</a>;
+  intense cold, <a href="#page259">259</a>, <a href="#page262">262</a>;
+  arrival at autumn depôt, <a href="#page263">263</a>;
+  daily routine, <a href="#page264">264</a> to <a href="#page270">270</a>;
+  road-making, <a href="#page273">273</a>, <a href="#page275">275</a>, <a href="#page276">276</a>;
+  increasing difficulties, <a href="#page304">304</a>;
+  method of advancing, <a href="#page295">295</a>, <a href="#page304">304</a>, <a href="#page306">306</a>, <a href="#page313">313</a>;
+  most northern encampment, <a href="#page307">307</a>;
+  extreme northern point, <a href="#page309">309</a> to <a href="#page311">311</a>;
+  return journey of northern division begun, <a href="#page312">312</a>;
+  northern division reaches land, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  return of northern division, <a href="#page327">327</a>;
+  western division, <a href="#page331">331</a>, <a href="#page332">332</a>;
+  eastern division, <a href="#page350">350</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Autumn, Hummocks, Temperature, Foot-gear, Cook.)</p>
+
+<p>Sleeping-bags, <a href="#page139">139</a>, <a href="#page235">235</a>, <a href="#page240">240</a>;
+  weight of, <a href="#page233">233</a>;
+  frozen hard, <a href="#page280">280</a>, <a href="#page283">283</a>, <a href="#page287">287</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Smith, Mr. Krarup, Inspector of North Greenland, his hospitality, <a href="#page26">26</a>, <a href="#page29">29</a>, <a href="#page363">363</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Smith Sound, <a href="#page47">47</a>, <a href="#page49">49</a>, <a href="#page69">69</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Snow, crimson, <a href="#page48">48</a>;
+  heavy falls in Smith Sound, <a href="#page71">71</a>, <a href="#page73">73</a>, <a href="#page95">95</a>;
+  in Robeson Channel, <a href="#page111">111</a>, <a href="#page119">119</a>, <a href="#page121">121</a>;
+  heavy falls during autumn travelling, <a href="#page147">147</a>;
+  buildings with, <a href="#page152">152</a>, <a href="#page153">153</a>, <a href="#page154">154</a>;
+  temperature at different depths, <a href="#page162">162</a>;
+  heavy drifts during winter, <a href="#page205">205</a>;
+  drifts while sledge travelling, <a href="#page261">261</a>, <a href="#page287">287</a>, <a href="#page306">306</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Snow blindness, precautions against, <a href="#page240">240</a>;
+  use of goggles, <a href="#page286">286</a>, <a href="#page303">303</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Snow bunting seen by sledge crews, <a href="#page319">319</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Snow hut built by Rawson, <a href="#page212">212</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sorrel, <a href="#page345">345</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Soundings at extreme northern point, <a href="#page308">308</a>, <a href="#page309">309</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Southsea Common, farewell to the expedition from, <a href="#page9">9</a>, <a href="#page10">10</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Specific gravity observations, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Spectrum analysis observations, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Standards for sledges, <a href="#page258">258</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Stanton, Cape, in sight, <a href="#page103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Steam, lecture on by Mr. Wootton, <a href="#page169">169</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Stone, Geo., of the &ldquo;Discovery,&rdquo; serving on board the &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; songs by, <a href="#page174">174</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Store-bag, sledging contents, <a href="#page237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Stoves, <a href="#page158">158</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Stuckberry, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; parts and songs by, <a href="#page173">173</a>, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Summer, <a href="#page337">337</a>, <a href="#page339">339</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sumner, Cape, in sight, <a href="#page103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sun, sets at midnight, <a href="#page127">127</a>;
+  final disappearance, <a href="#page141">141</a>;
+  last view of, <a href="#page148">148</a>, <a href="#page150">150</a>;
+  date of final departure, <a href="#page151">151</a>, <a href="#page178">178</a>;
+  longing for the return of, <a href="#page207">207</a>;
+  return of, <a href="#page219">219</a>, <a href="#page220">220</a>, <a href="#page221">221</a>, <a href="#page222">222</a>;
+  effect of, on the ice, <a href="#page207">207</a>, <a href="#page313">313</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Sylvester heating apparatus not supplied, <a href="#page158">158</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Symons, Robert, A.B., H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; printer, <a href="#page164">164</a> (<i>n.</i>), <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a>, <a href="#page216">216</a>;
+  songs by, <a href="#page214">214</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Tabogganing, <a href="#page187">187</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Taboggans, Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company&rsquo;s sledges, suitable for soft snow, <a href="#page281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Temperature, observations for, <a href="#page162">162</a>;
+  variations during winter, <a href="#page183">183</a>;
+  extreme cold, <a href="#page223">223</a>, <a href="#page224">224</a>;
+  while sledging, <a href="#page259">259</a>, <a href="#page262">262</a>, <a href="#page278">278</a>, <a href="#page283">283</a>, <a href="#page286">286</a>, <a href="#page290">290</a>, <a href="#page294">294</a>, <a href="#page295">295</a>, <a href="#page302">302</a>, <a href="#page313">313</a>, <a href="#page314">314</a>, <a href="#page320">320</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Tents, <a href="#page139">139</a>;
+  weight, <a href="#page233">233</a>;
+  description of, <a href="#page235">235</a>, <a href="#page260">260</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Terns, <a href="#page110">110</a>, <a href="#page332">332</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Tests of physical capacity, <a href="#page15">15</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Theatricals, dresses, <a href="#page171">171</a>;
+  orchestra, <a href="#page171">171</a>;
+  prologue, <a href="#page172">172</a>;
+  play-bills, <a href="#page173">173</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>;
+  plays, <a href="#page173">173</a>, <a href="#page214">214</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Thermometers tested, <a href="#page224">224</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Thermometrical observations, <a href="#page162">162</a>, <a href="#page223">223</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Temperature.)</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Thursday pops,&rdquo; <a href="#page168">168</a>, <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a>, <a href="#page215">215</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Tidal observations at Twin Glacier Bay, <a href="#page62">62</a>;
+  in winter quarters, <a href="#page161">161</a>, <a href="#page180">180</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Tides, meeting of, at Cape Fraser, <a href="#page92">92</a>;
+  in Polar Sea, <a href="#page304">304</a>, <a href="#page309">309</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Tigress,&rdquo; at Life-boat Cove, <a href="#page53">53</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Torske bank, fishing on, <a href="#page25">25</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Trafalgar day celebrated, <a href="#page179">179</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Turnstones, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Twin Glacier Bay, <a href="#page61">61</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Tyndall Glacier, <a href="#page359">359</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">&ldquo;Unies.&rdquo; (<i>See</i> Narwhals.)</p>
+
+<p>Unifilar House, <a href="#page209">209</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Union, Cape, <a href="#page101">101</a>, <a href="#page103">103</a>, <a href="#page118">118</a>;
+  rounded, <a href="#page121">121</a>, <a href="#page122">122</a>;
+  pressure on, <a href="#page125">125</a>, <a href="#page343">343</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Union Jack of Captain Nares, taken with the northern division, <a href="#page258">258</a>;
+  planted at the most northern point, <a href="#page309">309</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Upernivik, <a href="#page41">41</a>, <a href="#page42">42</a>, <a href="#page43">43</a>, <a href="#page358">358</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Valentia, &ldquo;Alert&rdquo; at, <a href="#page367">367</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Valorous,&rdquo; H.M.S., to take out stores to Disco, <a href="#page6">6</a>;
+  joins the Arctic ships, <a href="#page11">11</a>;
+  to make the best of her way to Disco, <a href="#page14">14</a>;
+  at Disco, <a href="#page28">28</a>;
+  kindness of captain and officers, <a href="#page33">33</a>;
+  farewell to, <a href="#page35">35</a>;
+  lost sight of, <a href="#page37">37</a>;
+  jolly-boat landed at Dobbin Bay, <a href="#page84">84</a>;
+  harmonium obtained from, <a href="#page187">187</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Vegetation at Godhavn, <a href="#page31">31</a>;
+  at Cape Isabella, <a href="#page57">57</a>;
+  at Twin Glacier Bay, <a href="#page60">60</a>;
+  at Norman Lockyer Island, <a href="#page74">74</a>;
+  in Discovery Harbour, <a href="#page107">107</a>;
+  lecture on Arctic plants by Mr. Pullen, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  of the Arctic summer, <a href="#page340">340</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Ventilation during winter, <a href="#page158">158</a>;
+  drip, <a href="#page182">182</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Victoria,&rdquo; H.M. sledge, Lieut. Parr, R.N., <a href="#page137">137</a>, <a href="#page217">217</a>, <a href="#page259">259</a>;
+  goes through the ice, <a href="#page144">144</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Victoria Head, <a href="#page67">67</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Von Buch, Cape, <a href="#page93">93</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">Waigat, scenery of, <a href="#page36">36</a>;
+  danger from fogs and icebergs, <a href="#page37">37</a>;
+  steam out of, <a href="#page38">38</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, visit to Arctic ships, <a href="#page8">8</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Wales, Prince of, Mountains, <a href="#page50">50</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Walrus seen on the ice, <a href="#page45">45</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>;
+  hunts, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page75">75</a>, <a href="#page76">76</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Walter Bathurst Cape, <a href="#page360">360</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Warming apparatus not supplied, <a href="#page157">157</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Warming arrangements during winter, <a href="#page157">157</a>, <a href="#page158">158</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Washington Irving Island, ancient cairns on, <a href="#page85">85</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Weights for sledging, <a href="#page232">232</a>;
+  to be dragged by each man, <a href="#page233">233</a>;
+  in Parry&rsquo;s expedition, <a href="#page243">243</a> (<i>n.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Welcome of sledge travellers to ship, <a href="#page335">335</a>, <a href="#page336">336</a>;
+  of the expedition, on return to England, <a href="#page368">368</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Whales, <a href="#page20">20</a>, <a href="#page21">21</a>. (<i>See</i> Cetaceans.)</p>
+
+<p>Whale Sound, <a href="#page49">49</a>, <a href="#page359">359</a>.</p>
+
+<p>White, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; lecture on history by, <a href="#page169">169</a>;
+  part taken by, at the theatricals, <a href="#page174">174</a>;
+  improvement of sledge-cooking apparatus by, <a href="#page236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Willow, <a href="#page74">74</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Wind. (<i>See</i> Gales.)</p>
+
+<p>Winter, approach of, <a href="#page126">126</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Winter quarters, precarious nature of at Floe-berg Beach, <a href="#page126">126</a>, <a href="#page132">132</a>;
+  preparations for, <a href="#page151">151</a> to <a href="#page254">254</a>;
+  routine, <a href="#page160">160</a>.
+  (<i>See</i> Ventilation, Warming, Housing, Clothing, Fire-hole, Amusements.)</p>
+
+<p>Wolf, appearance of a, <a href="#page228">228</a>, <a href="#page229">229</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Wolves, traces of, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page107">107</a>, <a href="#page321">321</a>;
+  alarm of, <a href="#page199">199</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Woman Islands, <a href="#page41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Wood, Sergeant, H.M.S., &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; recitation and song by, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Woolley, Wm., H.M.S., &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; parts and songs by, <a href="#page173">173</a>.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Woolwich,&rdquo; snow powder storehouse at winter quarters so called, <a href="#page154">154</a>;
+  dismantling of, <a href="#page227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Wootton, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. &ldquo;Alert,&rdquo; adventure in a kayak, <a href="#page30">30</a>;
+  his lecture on steam, <a href="#page169">169</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a>;
+  glee sung by, <a href="#page216">216</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">York, Cape, <a href="#page47">47</a>, <a href="#page49">49</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Young, Sir Allen, gratitude to, for bringing out letters, <a href="#page358">358</a>, <a href="#page362">362</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center ptb6"><img style="width:405px; height:45px; vertical-align: middle;" src="images/img0.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">THE END.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2 center f80">PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham
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+</body>
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+
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+Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: The Great Frozen Sea
+       A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
+
+Author: Albert Hastings Markham
+
+Release Date: August 31, 2013 [EBook #43608]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREAT FROZEN SEA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marius Masi, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT FROZEN SEA
+
+
+[Illustration: "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY."]
+
+
+                   THE
+             GREAT FROZEN SEA
+
+   _A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE
+              OF THE "ALERT"_
+
+  DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6
+
+
+                    BY
+
+  REAR-ADMIRAL ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, R.N.
+      (LATE COMMANDER OF H.M.S. "ALERT")
+
+  AUTHOR OF "A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA,"
+  AND "THE CRUISE OF THE 'ROSARIO'"
+
+
+    "There's a flag on the mast, and it points to the north,
+       And the north holds the land that I love;
+     I will steer back to northward, the heavenly course,
+       Of the winds guiding sure from above."
+
+       FRITHIOF'S "SAGA"
+
+
+  SEVENTH EDITION
+
+  LONDON
+
+  KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRUeBNER & CO., LT^D
+
+  1894
+
+  (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._)
+
+
+  TO
+
+  The Memory of
+
+  REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B.,
+
+  WHO, WHILE HE LIVED, WAS THE MOVING SPIRIT IN SECURING THE DESPATCH OF
+  THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, AND WHOSE PAST DEEDS IN THE SAME FIELD
+  REFLECTED A BRIGHT RAY OF HOPEFUL LIGHT ON THOSE WHO STROVE TO EMULATE
+  HIS EXAMPLE WHILST FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOTSTEPS,
+
+  This little Work
+
+  IS REVERENTLY AND AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY
+
+  THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
+
+
+The History of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, and the record of its
+results, will be found in the work of Sir George Nares. My object in
+publishing the present volume is to furnish a popular narrative of
+memorable events as they presented themselves to an individual member of
+the Expedition, and especially of the work of sledge travelling over the
+frozen polar ocean. It was written a few months after our return to
+England, but its appearance has been purposely deferred until the
+publication of the work by Sir George Nares.
+
+The same reasons still exist for continuing the work of Arctic
+exploration as were adduced for commencing it in 1875.
+
+It is impossible to complete so great a work in one campaign, and the
+results of the late Expedition ought only to whet our appetites, and
+stimulate us to undertake further discoveries.
+
+The narrative of Sir George Nares will show the completeness of the
+work accomplished, so far as the route by Smith Sound is concerned, and
+with the appendices containing the numerous and valuable scientific
+results, will prove the importance of Arctic discovery. But there are
+other routes remaining to be explored, which will yield equally useful
+results.
+
+Behring Strait is a portal leading to a vast region, the history of
+which has hitherto been as a sealed book.
+
+An expedition to the east coast of Greenland for the purpose of
+connecting our discoveries at Cape Britannia with those of the Germans
+at Cape Bismarck, and thus solving the interesting geographical problem
+regarding the insularity of Greenland, would be of the greatest
+importance.
+
+The exploration of Jones and Hayes Sounds offer a rich field; but that
+which, in my opinion, would yield the most profitable harvest, is the
+continuation of the discoveries of the Austro-Hungarian expedition in
+Franz-Josef Land. Once reach in a ship the position attained by Lieut.
+Payer and his sledge party, and such a measure of success would follow
+as would prove satisfactory even to the most sanguine. Although the
+flags of Holland, Sweden, and America will this year float in the Arctic
+Regions, that of England will be unrepresented.
+
+It is hardly to be expected, in the present critical state of affairs,
+that our Government can afford to give either time or attention to the
+subject of Arctic exploration, but when the existing differences are all
+happily settled, there will really be more reasons for following up the
+work than were brought forward for undertaking it in 1875. We were never
+in a better position for doing so than at the present time. We possess a
+couple of ships whose capabilities for Arctic navigation have been
+already thoroughly tested, and found perfect; we have officers and men
+experienced in the navigation of those icy seas and in sledging, and we
+have stores and provisions ready to equip another expedition.
+
+The expense, seeing that the ships and stores are lying idle, would be
+insignificant, and would hardly be more than equal to that of keeping a
+couple of small gun-boats in commission. Surely this great nation could
+easily afford, in the interests of science and for her own honour, to
+incur such an expenditure. I trust so; and I, for one, look forward with
+confident hope to the despatch, in a few years, of another Arctic
+expedition as well equipped as the one of which I was lately a member.
+
+  A. H. M.
+
+  21, ECCLESTON SQUARE,
+    _March, 1878_.
+
+
+
+
+OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OF H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+
+OFFICERS.
+
+  _Captain_, GEORGE S. NARES, F.R.S.
+  _Commander_, ALBERT H. MARKHAM, F.R.G.S.
+  _Lieutenant_, PELHAM ALDRICH.
+          "         ALFRED A. CHASE PARR.
+          "         GEORGE A. GIFFARD.
+          "         WILLIAM H. MAY.
+  _Sub-Lieutenant_, GEORGE LE C. EGERTON (promoted to Lieutenant during
+     the absence of the expedition).
+  _Fleet Surgeon_, THOMAS COLAN, M.D.
+  _Surgeon_, EDWARD L. MOSS, M.D.
+  _Engineer_, JAMES WOOTTON.
+          "        GEORGE WHITE.
+  _Naturalist_, Captain H. WEMYSS FEILDEN, R.A., F.G.S., F.Z.S.
+  _Chaplain_, Rev. W. H. PULLEN.
+
+
+SHIP'S COMPANY.
+
+  Joseph Good, chief boatswain's mate.
+  John R. Radmore, chief carp. mate.[1]
+  Geo. Burroughs, ship's steward.
+  Vincent Dominic, ship's cook.
+  David Deuchars, ice quartermaster.
+  John Thores, ice quartermaster.
+  James Berrie, ice quartermaster.
+  Edward Lawrence, 1st cl. P.O.[2]
+  Daniel Harley, 1st cl. P.O.[3]
+  Thomas Stuckberry, 1st cl. P.O.
+  Thomas Rawlings, 1st cl. P.O.
+  James Doidge, 1st cl. P.O.[4]
+  Thomas Jolliffe, 1st. cl. P.O.
+  Spero Capato, captain's steward.
+  George Kemish, W. R. steward.
+  Frederick Cane, armourer.
+  John Hawkins, cooper.
+  William F. Hunt, W. R. cook.
+  Robert Joiner, leading stoker.
+  John Simmons, 2nd cl. P.O.
+  Adam Ayles, 2nd cl. P.O.
+  William Ferbrache, A.B.
+  George Cranstone, A.B.
+  William Lorrimer, A.B.
+  George Winstone, A.B.
+  Reuben Francombe, A.B.
+  Thomas H. Simpson, A.B.
+  David Mitchell, A.B.
+  Alfred R. Pearce, A.B.
+  James Self, A.B.
+  William Woolley, A.B.
+  John Pearson, A.B.
+  William Maskell, A.B.
+  William Malley, A.B.
+  Robert Symons, A.B.
+  Henry Mann, shipwright.
+  William Gore, stoker.
+  John Shirley, stoker.
+  Edward Stubbs, stoker and blacksmith.
+  George Norris, carpenter's crew.
+  Neil Christian Petersen, Danish interpreter and dog driver.[5]
+  Frederic, Eskimo dog driver and hunter.
+
+
+MARINES
+
+  William Wood, colour-sergeant R.M.L.I.
+  William Ellard, private R.M.L.I.
+  Thomas Smith, private R.M.L.I.
+  John Hollins, private R.M.L.I.
+  Elias Hill, gunner R.M.A.
+  George Porter, gunner R.M.A.[6]
+  Thomas Oakley, gunner R.M.A.
+
+The following sledge crew from H.M.S. "Discovery" wintered on board the
+"Alert":--
+
+  Lieutenant Wyatt Rawson.
+  George Bryant, 1st cl. P.O.[7]
+  George Stone, 2nd cl. P.O.
+  Michael O'Regan, A.B.
+  James Hand, A.B.[8]
+  Thomas Chalkley, A.B.
+  Alfred Hindle, A.B.
+  Elijah Rayner, private R.M.L.I.
+
+The following "means" of ages, weights, and chest capacities of those
+belonging to the "Alert" may be of interest:--
+
+                                            Chest
+                    Age.        Weight.    Capacity
+
+  Officers       32.1 years    149.8 lbs.    266
+  Men            27.4  "       146.6  "      245.1
+  General Mean   28.4  "       147.3  "      249.5
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Promoted to carpenter.
+
+  [2] First class petty officer.
+
+  [3] Lost in H.M.S. "Eurydice."
+
+  [4] Promoted to boatswain.
+
+  [5] Died on May 14th from the effects of frost-bite whilst sledging.
+
+  [6] Died on the 8th of June of scurvy whilst sledging.
+
+  [7] Promoted to boatswain.
+
+  [8] Died in June of scurvy whilst sledging with Lieut. Beanmont.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                     PAGE
+  DEDICATION                                            v
+
+  PREFACE                                             vii
+
+  OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OR H.M.S. "ALERT"        xi
+
+  CHAPTER I. FITTING OUT.
+
+Description of ships, 2; special fittings, 3; selection of officers and
+men, 5; kindness of friends, 6; games and musical instruments, 7;
+visitors to the ships, 8; departure, 9; arrival at Bantry Bay, 12; the
+voyage commenced, 13.
+
+  CHAPTER II. THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.
+
+Tests of physical capacity, 15; regular issue of lime-juice, 16; gales
+of wind in the Atlantic, 17; slow progress, 19; whales, 20; the first
+ice, 22; the Land of Desolation, 22; seals, 23; the Greenland coast, 25;
+fishing for cod, 25; arrival at Godhavn, 26.
+
+  CHAPTER III. THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.
+
+An Eskimo dance, 28; Eskimo dogs, 29; amusements at Godhavn, 30; ascent
+of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, 31; aid from the "Valorous," 33; tradition of
+Disco, 34; Ritenbenk, 35; part company with "Valorous," 36; the Waigat
+Strait, 36; dangers in the Waigat, 37; Proven, 38; Hans Hendrik engaged,
+39; "Sanderson, his hope," 39; Upernivik, 41.
+
+  CHAPTER IV. MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.
+
+Preparations for a nip, 43; the middle ice, 44; a bear hunt, 46; the
+North Water, 47; Cary Island depot, 49; approaching Smith Sound, 50;
+enter Smith Sound, 51.
+
+  CHAPTER V. SMITH SOUND.
+
+Life-boat Cove, 53; visit winter quarters of "Polaris," 54; Littleton
+Island, 55; Cape Isabella, 56; stopped by the ice, 57; Payer Harbour,
+58; first experiences in sledging, 59; Twin Glacier Bay, 60; an Arctic
+paradise, 61; tidal observations, 62.
+
+  CHAPTER VI. STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.
+
+Open water, 64; in danger of a nip, 65; vigilance of Captain Nares, 66;
+wanderings of the Eskimo, 68.
+
+  CHAPTER VII. A WALRUS HUNT. DOG DRIVING.
+
+Grinnell Land, 72; glaciers, 73; a walrus hunt, 74; amusements on the
+ice, 77; the Eskimo dogs, 78; dog sledging, 80.
+
+  CHAPTER VIII. SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.
+
+Cape Hawks and Dobbin Bay, 83; discovery of an ancient cairn, 85;
+cutting a dock, 87; struggles through the ice, 90; dangerous position,
+91; Cape Fraser, 92; junction of two tides, 92; Cape John Barrow, 93;
+Cape Collinson, 94; heavy squalls, 95; increasing thickness of floes,
+96; icebergs decreasing in number, 96.
+
+  CHAPTER IX. KENNEDY CHANNEL.
+
+Cape Constitution, 98; difference in appearance of coast-lines, 99; Hall
+Basin blocked with ice, 100; Bessels Bay, 100; Hannah Island, 101; cross
+Kennedy Channel, 103; musk-oxen, 104; winter quarters of "Discovery,"
+107; the two ships part company, 107.
+
+  CHAPTER X. THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD.
+
+Robeson Channel, 110; stopped off Cape Beechey, 113; Shift-Rudder Bay,
+114; floe-bergs, 114; the first lemming, 115; marine shells above
+sea-level, 116; depot established at Lincoln Bay, 117; a fortunate
+escape, 119; crossing the threshold, 119; finally stopped by ice, 121;
+the Frozen Ocean, 122.
+
+  CHAPTER XI. FLOE-BERG BEACH.
+
+Saved by floe-bergs, 125; precarious winter quarters, 126; a
+reconnaissance in dog-sledges, 128; habits of Eskimo dogs, 130;
+Dumb-bell Bay, 131; eider-ducks, 132; two boats advanced northwards,
+133; a severe march, 134; danger of the ship, 134; unable to move, 135;
+autumn sledging commenced, 136.
+
+  CHAPTER XII. AUTUMN TRAVELLING.
+
+Autumn travelling, 138; discomforts, 139; liability to frost-bites, 142;
+difficulties, 145; cheerfulness of the men, 146; highest position
+reached in the autumn, 147; frost-bites, 147; return of travellers, 149;
+results, 150.
+
+  CHAPTER XIII. WINTER QUARTERS.
+
+Preparations for winter, 152; observatories, 153; snow houses, 154; the
+ship "housed" in, 154; interior arrangements, 156; winter clothing, 159;
+precautions against fire, 161; observations for temperature, 162.
+
+  CHAPTER XIV. THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
+
+Printing-office, 164; school, 166; amusements, 167; Thursday pops, 168;
+lectures, 169; the Royal Arctic Theatre, 170; the prologue, 172;
+conjuring entertainment, 175; magic-lantern exhibition, 176.
+
+  CHAPTER XV. WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.
+
+Departure of the sun, 178; Guy Fawkes' Day, 179; scientific
+observations, 180; the moon, 181; open-air exercise, 181; inconvenience
+from drip, 182; fluctuations of temperature, 183; movement of the ice,
+184; celebration of birthdays, 185; bill of fare, 185; fresh meat, 186;
+Divine service, 187; medical inspections, 187; tabogganing, 187; Nellie,
+189; a lost dog, 190.
+
+  CHAPTER XVI. AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.
+
+Preparations for Christmas Day, 193; Christmas presents, 194; Christmas
+Day, 195; retrospect, 197; frost-bite patients, 198; precautions against
+frost-bite, 199; the Palaeocrystic Sea, 200; a brilliant meteor, 200.
+
+  CHAPTER XVII. A HAPPY NEW YEAR.
+
+New Year's Day, 202; mustard and cress, 205; heavy snow-drifts, 206;
+returning light, 207; severe cold, 208; an alarm in the observatory,
+209; condition of the Eskimo dogs, 210; Nellie and the lemmings, 212;
+Rawson's snow hut, 212; the last school meeting, 213; the last dramatic
+performance, 214; the last "pop," 215; grand palaeocrystic sledging
+chorus, 216.
+
+  CHAPTER XVIII. RETURN OF THE SUN.
+
+Cairn Hill, 220; the sun's return, 221; intense cold, 223; experiments
+on various substances during extreme cold, 223; daylight, 225; alarm of
+fire, 226; dismantling the observatories, 227; the sledge-crews
+exercised, 228; a wolf, 229.
+
+  CHAPTER XIX. DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+Preparations for sledging, 231; weights, 232; auxiliary sledges and
+depots, 234; tents, 235; cooking apparatus, 236; scale of provisions,
+237; lime-juice, 238; medical instructions, 238; sledging costume, 239;
+precautions against snow-blindness, 240; programme of sledging work,
+241; boats to be carried by northern division, 244; names of sledges,
+245.
+
+  CHAPTER XX. THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON.
+
+Decide to communicate with "Discovery," 247; departure of Egerton and
+Rawson, 248; their return, 249; Petersen frost-bitten, 249; heroic
+conduct, 251; efforts to save Petersen, 251; difficulties of the return
+journey, 253; Egerton's second start, 255; death of Petersen, 255.
+
+  CHAPTER XXI. THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+Departure of the sledges, 258; first camp, 260; intense cold, 262;
+arrival at the autumn depot, 263; the parties separate, 264; duties of
+cook, 265; sledging breakfast, 266; luncheon, 266; halting for the
+night, 268; evenings in the tent, 270.
+
+  CHAPTER XXII. THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL.
+
+Heavy ice encountered, 273; road-making over the ice, 275; struggling
+over hummocks, 278; daily routine, 279; continued cold, 280; excellence
+of the sledges, 281; first symptoms of disease, 282; a gale of wind,
+283; heavy snow-drifts, 285; disease increasing, 286; excellent conduct
+of the men, 286; resolve to abandon one boat, 288; increased weight to
+drag, 289; intense cold, 290; state of the floes, 291; cross the 83rd
+parallel, 292; enormous hummocks, 293; hummocks and snow-drifts, 294;
+tracks of a hare seen, 296; young ice, 296; enforced rest, 297.
+
+  CHAPTER XXIII. THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.
+
+Scurvy, 299; difficulties increasing, 300; struggling northwards, 301;
+hummocks discoloured by mud, 301; condition of party, 303; issue of
+lime-juice, 304; scorbutic symptoms, 305; the last advance, 306; most
+northern encampment, 307; soundings obtained, 308; the most northern
+position ever reached by man, 309.
+
+  CHAPTER XXIV. RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.
+
+Homeward bound, 312; increased sufferings, 314; courage of the men, 316;
+extreme weakness of the men, 316; abandonment of the second boat, 318; a
+snow-bunting seen, 319; the land reached, 321; Parr despatched for
+succour, 322; a stray dog, 322; death of Porter, 323; his burial, 323;
+saved, 325; return on board, 326.
+
+  CHAPTER XXV. RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.
+
+Causes of scurvy, 329; anxiety for Aldrich, 331; May sent to his rescue,
+331; return of Aldrich, 332; care of the sick, 333; the welcome back,
+335; decide to return to England, 337; musk-oxen, 338; shooting parties,
+338; liberation of the ship, 341; under weigh, 342.
+
+  CHAPTER XXVI. THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.
+
+Preparations for abandoning ship, 344; communicate with "Discovery,"
+345; discovery of Eskimo relics, 347; a severe nip, 348; critical
+situation of ship, 349; Discovery Harbour, 349; return of Beaumont, 350;
+a frozen cave, 350; "Alert" forced on shore, 351; struggles with the
+ice, 352; pass Cape Fraser and Dobbin Bay, 353; a seal and fox shot,
+354; reach the open sea, 354.
+
+  CHAPTER XXVII. HOMEWARD BOUND.
+
+Cape Isabella, 357; letters from home, 358; bad weather, 359; Whale
+Sound, 359; off Lancaster Sound, 360; reappearance of fulmar petrels,
+361; reach Godhavn, 362; receive letters from England, 363; leave
+Godhavn, 363; Egedesminde, 364; sight the "Pandora," 366; arrive at
+Valentia, 367; at Queenstown, 367; welcome home, 368.
+
+  INDEX                                   _Page_ 371
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+FULL-PAGE PLATES.
+
+
+                                            PAGE
+  "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY"          _Frontispiece_
+  POLAR BEARS                        _To face_ 46
+  WINTER QUARTERS H.M.S. "ALERT"              151
+  HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP                       308
+  REDUCING A FLOE-BERG                        349
+  H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE              351
+
+
+SMALLER WOODCUTS.
+
+  SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE                     23
+  ESKIMO WOMEN                                 28
+  WALRUSES                                     75
+  CAPE HAWKS                                   84
+  PLAN OF ICE DOCK                             88
+  "THE MOANING OF THE TIED"                    89
+  MUSK OXEN                                   105
+  KNOTS                                       111
+  DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES                  131
+  START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES                 143
+  DIAGRAM OF MAGNETIC OBSERVATORIES           153
+  FLAG-STAFF POINT (CAPE SHERIDAN)            155
+  ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN
+    AND THE WONDERFUL SCAMP"                  170
+  NELLIE                                      189
+  LEMMINGS                                    212
+  CAIRN HILL                                  220
+  SLEDGE UNDER SAIL                           231
+  DOGS AND SLEDGE                             247
+  GETTING READY TO "BAG"                      269
+  CHART OF OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS          274
+  INTERIOR OF TENT                            280
+  A PACKED SLEDGE                             281
+  SNOW-BUNTING                                319
+  BRENT-GOOSE AND EIDER-DUCKS                 340
+  ALLMAN BAY                                  355
+  FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES")                  361
+  FAREWELL!                                   369
+
+     *     *     *     *     *
+
+  MAP SHOWING THE DISCOVERIES OF THE ARCTIC
+    EXPEDITION, 1875-6              _To face_   1
+
+
+[Illustration: ARCTIC EXPEDITION 1875-76.]
+
+
+THE GREAT FROZEN SEA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+FITTING OUT.
+
+
+  "Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede,
+   Habundantly for hire a ful long space:
+   And other necessaries that shuld nede
+   She had ynow, heried be Godde's grace:
+   For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace,
+   And bring hire home, I can no better say
+   But in the see she driveth forth hire way."
+
+     CHAUCER (_Man of Lawe's Tale_).
+
+The above quaint lines, written five hundred years ago, well describe
+the scenes that were being enacted during the months of April and May,
+1875, in Portsmouth Dockyard.
+
+Busy as this great naval depot of England almost always is, it is
+seldom, in peace time, that so much interest is shown in the equipment
+of two small steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those that
+were then lying "all a taunto" in the steam basin of that extensive
+yard.
+
+The names of those comparatively small ships were the "Alert" and the
+"Discovery," their destination the unknown North.
+
+Although of insignificant size, in comparison with the huge ironclad
+monsters by which they were surrounded, yet a close observer would
+readily detect signs of great strength in these two business-like
+looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they should possess
+strength and powers of resistance of no ordinary kind, for they were
+destined to grapple and fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of
+the Polar Ocean.
+
+The two ships had been very carefully selected and fitted for the
+important work in which they were about to engage. The "Alert" was a
+17-gun sloop, and had already served two or three commissions on foreign
+stations before she was converted for Arctic service. The "Discovery"
+was built in Dundee for the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had
+been engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland, before she
+was purchased for the Arctic expedition.
+
+The "Alert" was thoroughly strengthened, and, under the supervision of
+the Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock),
+adapted in every way for the hazardous service on which she was about to
+be employed.
+
+After a complete overhaul of her hull, all defective timbers and beams
+were removed, and replaced by sound ones; extra beam power was
+introduced; an external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering from
+amidships to four inches forward and three inches aft, extending from
+the keel to the waterways, was put on; whilst a longitudinal beam,
+placed between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway internally,
+bound and strapped the whole ship together. Extra iron knees were
+introduced in order more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of
+the ice; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch iron plates
+extending to about ten or twelve feet aft, whilst inside the bow was
+strengthened by numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood.
+
+Between the inside planking and the lining were placed sheets of felt
+for the promotion of warmth. New waterways, of a most substantial form,
+were added; and the ship was divided into watertight compartments.
+
+Two large davits projected over each quarter of the vessel, by the aid
+of which the rudder, some three tons weight, was easily shipped and
+unshipped when in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these occasions
+it would be suspended horizontally over the stern from the davits.
+
+Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance for making water,
+consisting of a large reservoir to receive either snow or ice; this,
+being dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is drawn off
+through a tap at the bottom, thus providing our water supply. Like all
+vessels employed in the whaling trade, both ships were fitted with
+Pinkey and Collins' patent reefing and furling topsails; and each
+possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable of being utilized for
+many purposes.
+
+At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel was a large barrel-like
+object. This was the crow's nest, a very necessary item on board all
+ships destined to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged,
+and were supplied with the ordinary contrivances used on board
+short-handed merchant vessels to facilitate the work.
+
+They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the heavily rigged but trim
+men-of-war, which, with their tapering spars and faultlessly squared
+yards, lay in the harbour near them.
+
+Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various shapes and sizes,
+specially designed and constructed for the service peculiar to Arctic
+waters. Two of these were completely equipped for whaling, so as to be
+able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals. They were both fitted
+with harpoon-guns fixed on swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three
+in number for each ship, and were built as light as it was possible to
+make them. Paddles were supplied, by which they could be propelled, as
+well as oars. They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each
+were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection from the ice.
+
+The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings, were exactly
+similar. They were what are commonly called "fiddle-heads," having the
+Union Jack painted on them, and underneath the word _Ubique_; and to no
+flag can that word be more truly and more appropriately applied.
+_Everywhere_ is it to be found, even beyond the limits of the abode of
+man!
+
+The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships were in a great
+measure regulated according to the establishments by which preceding
+expeditions had been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture
+and quality.
+
+Great care was taken in the selection of both officers and men, and none
+were appointed until they had undergone a searching medical examination
+as to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected who had
+the appearance of being fine and eligible young fellows. The slightest
+defect, such as bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for
+refusing the services of otherwise apparently strong and healthy men.
+Numerous were the volunteers that came forward, rendering the task of
+selecting a few from the number of eager willing men that presented
+themselves one of no little difficulty.
+
+Their social and moral qualifications were as strictly inquired into as
+was their physical condition; and men of a happy and genial disposition
+were selected in preference to others who appeared morose and taciturn.
+
+"Can you sing or dance? or what can you do for the amusement of others?"
+were questions invariably addressed to candidates for Arctic service by
+the board of officers appointed to select from the numerous applicants
+who presented themselves.
+
+The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of those individuals who
+were informed that they were to be of that small chosen band, indicated
+most clearly the popularity of the enterprize amongst the men of the
+Royal Navy; whilst the disappointed ones, and they were many, showed
+only too plainly the mortification they experienced at being rejected.
+As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men to be employed in the
+expedition, a gallant captain commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at
+the office where the men were being entered, and requested advice. He
+said, "An order has come on board my ship, directing me to send
+volunteers for Arctic service to this office. What am I to do? The whole
+ship's company, nearly eight hundred men, have given in their names!"
+
+This is merely mentioned in order to show the amount of interest taken
+by the whole navy in the cause for which the ships were being equipped.
+
+The ships' companies being completed, officers and men were
+unremittingly engaged in the various duties incidental to fitting out.
+Provisions and stores, sufficient to last for three years, had to be
+received on board and stowed away. There was no waste space on board
+either vessel. Every little nook and corner was destined to be the
+receptacle of some important article. The ships gradually settled down
+in the water as the weights on board accumulated, until they appeared to
+be alarmingly deep, whilst much yet remained unstowed. The Admiralty
+had, however, provided for this emergency. The "Valorous," an old
+paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was ordered to convey
+all surplus stores, that could not be stowed on board the two exploring
+vessels, as far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of Greenland.
+
+This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as it would be obviously
+unsafe to cross the Atlantic in boisterous weather, laden as the two
+ships undoubtedly would have been if they had received no assistance
+from a third vessel in the conveyance of their stores.
+
+Through the kindness and generosity of our friends, and of those who
+more especially interested themselves in the progress of Arctic
+discovery, we received many useful and valuable gifts. Her Majesty and
+the members of the Royal Family testified, in a substantial manner, the
+deep interest they took in the enterprize. The name of her Imperial
+Majesty the Empress Eugenie must always be associated with the
+expedition as one of its warmest friends. Her kind and considerate
+present, consisting of a fine woollen cap for each individual,
+contributed materially to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous
+duties of sledging.
+
+To mention the names of all our generous benefactors would require a
+chapter to itself. Books, magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money
+came pouring in from all sides; but smaller and less valuable, though
+not the less appreciated, gifts were also received. A small case, with
+the superscription, "A Christmas box for my friends on board the
+'Alert,'" and containing four bottles of excellent punch, and a little
+parcel of well-thumbed books and periodicals, showing undoubted signs of
+having been well perused, but which came with the "best wishes of a
+warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer," were accepted with as
+much pleasure and gratitude as were the more costly presents.
+
+Games of all descriptions, to while away the long evenings of a dark and
+monotonous winter, were purchased; whilst a complete set of instruments
+for a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list of our
+necessaries.
+
+In devoting a certain sum of money to the purchase of musical
+instruments and games, wherewithal to amuse ourselves, we were only
+following an example set us many years ago; for when Sir Humphrey
+Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering new lands, and
+planting Christian colonies upon those large and ample countries
+extending northward from Florida, we read that, "for the solace of our
+people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided of musicke in
+good varietie; not omitting the least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby
+horses, and many like conceits, to delight the savage people, whom we
+intended to winne by all faire meanes possible."
+
+We also hear, when that brave old navigator John Davis undertook his
+first voyage in 1585, with his two frail little barks, the "Sunneshine"
+and the "Mooneshine," that in the first-named vessel were twenty-three
+persons, of whom four were musicians--a large band in proportion to the
+complement of officers and men.
+
+In spite of the bustle and confusion that are inseparable from the
+preparation of such an expedition, in spite of fresh paint and tarry
+ropes, several thousands of visitors came on board before sailing, to
+the no small hindrance of the work; but it is feared that many others,
+owing to the stringent regulations that it was necessary to issue in
+order to have the vessels ready by the appointed time, were compelled to
+return to their homes without having the satisfaction of saying that
+they had been on board the Polar ships. Amongst those who honoured the
+vessels with a visit were his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, his
+Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, and her Imperial Majesty the
+Empress Eugenie.
+
+The entertainments given in our honour were very numerous; many were
+almost regarded as _farewell_ banquets.
+
+We were looked upon as public property; our hospitable countrymen, in
+the generosity of their hearts, never thinking that we should like to
+spend our last few days in England in peace and quietness amongst our
+own friends, wished to feed us on the fat of the land, and send us to
+sea suffering from that worst of all complaints, dyspepsia, accompanied
+perhaps by _mal de mer_.
+
+At length all preparations were completed. The day originally assigned
+for the sailing of the expedition, the 29th of May, dawned grey and
+misty, with dashes of rain falling and lying in little pools on our
+freshly painted deck. During the forenoon we were honoured by a visit
+from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, who came to bid us
+farewell and success on our mission. This was the last official visit
+paid to the vessels. At its termination officers and men were left
+pretty much to themselves, so that their last few hours in England might
+be spent with their own relatives. Four o'clock in the afternoon was the
+hour named for the departure of the ships, and punctual to the very
+minute they cast off from the dockyard jetty. The last embrace had been
+taken, the last fervent farewell had been wished, and, a good omen for
+the coming voyage, as the vessels steamed out of Portsmouth Harbour, all
+clouds cleared away, and the sun shone out bright and joyous. During the
+day crowds had been flocking from all parts of England in order to add
+their voices to those of other well-wishers to the enterprize. Seldom
+before in that famous seaport town, although the centre of many stirring
+events, had such a scene been witnessed. Thousands of spectators were
+congregated along the sea-face extending from the dockyard to Southsea
+Castle, and on the opposite shore of Gosport, to witness our departure;
+and cheer after cheer pealed forth from the assembled multitude as we
+slowly threaded our way amongst the numerous yachts and pleasure boats
+that had collected to bid us Godspeed. A small thin line of red, hardly
+to be distinguished amidst the more sombre hue of the holiday seekers'
+dresses, denoted the troops of the garrison drawn up to do honour to
+their comrades of the sister service, whilst their bands, breaking forth
+with the soul-stirring strains of "Auld lang syne," found an echo in the
+hearts of all connected with the expedition.
+
+It was, indeed, a proud moment for us as we witnessed this unmistakeable
+demonstration, and felt that we, a small but chosen band, had been
+selected to carry out a national enterprize of such importance.
+
+If anything was required to assure us of the popularity of our
+undertaking, the spectacle that afternoon on Southsea Common was surely
+a convincing proof.
+
+There was but one responsive feeling in the hearts of every member of
+the expedition, namely, a determination to deserve this confidence, and
+to achieve, with God's help, such a measure of success as would prove
+satisfactory to the country and creditable to the navy.
+
+It will be long before that scene is effaced from our memories. Our last
+view of Portsmouth was across a bright blue sea to a shore thronged with
+an enthusiastic and cheering crowd waving a last farewell; whilst the
+last glimpse our friends had of us was across the same blue sparkling
+sea, the snow-white sails of our ships being lit up by the rays of the
+setting sun.
+
+Our feelings appeared to be reflected in the changes of the weather on
+that, to us, memorable day. The rain and mist in the morning were
+emblematical of the sorrow of parting; while when the sun burst forth
+bright and joyous in the afternoon, we all felt assured that the work on
+which we were about to be employed would be achieved, and that the
+enterprize commenced under such bright auspices would terminate as well
+and happily.
+
+Nothing occurred to mar the departure; one incident only happened that
+might have terminated disastrously and thrown a gloom over the little
+squadron. Immediately after the pilot had been discharged, one of the
+men of the "Alert," in the excitement and ardour of responding to the
+cheers with which we were on all sides greeted, lost his balance in the
+rigging and fell overboard. He was, however, quickly picked up and
+brought on board none the worse for his immersion, although the
+consternation excited by this mishap to a boatload of men and women, who
+happened to witness the accident, nearly resulted in fatal consequences.
+The half-drowned and thoroughly drenched man being restored to his
+shipmates, the squadron having been joined at Spithead by the
+"Valorous," rounded the Nab-light vessel, and before a fine fresh
+north-easterly breeze spread their sails and steered down channel.
+
+For many hours, however, they were escorted by a little yacht containing
+the relatives of some few of the officers of the expedition, which
+following in their wake reluctantly parted only when all further
+communication was impracticable.
+
+This, and a visit we received on the following morning from the brave
+old admiral, the Commander-in-chief at Plymouth, when passing the port,
+was the last sight of friends we were destined to enjoy for many a long
+month.
+
+We all felt that we had bidden them a long farewell, and from
+thenceforth, as far as they were concerned, we could only live in the
+happy memories of the past, buoyed up by hopes and aspirations as to the
+future.
+
+Experiencing fine weather, the anchors were dropped on the third day in
+the snug little harbour of Berehaven, in Bantry Bay. The object of this
+visit was to obtain our last supply of fresh meat, and our last budget
+of letters from home. A farewell ramble on shore amongst green fields
+and picturesque little farmhouses, where we were regaled with delicious
+fresh milk, was also enjoyed, and a visit paid to some Druidical remains
+near the long straggling village of Castletown.
+
+And here, amongst the long green grass and by the side of clear rippling
+rivulets, we gathered the last flowers of spring that would gladden our
+eyes until after our return to our native shore. Carefully were these
+floral treasures hoarded until an opportunity offered of transmitting
+them to dear friends at home. It is related of one officer, who was so
+fortunate as to gather several sprigs of "forget-me-not," and whose home
+ties were, perhaps, not so attractive as those of others, that he
+offered to barter small tufts of this precious little plant for a bottle
+of beer, or a pot of cocoa and milk, the two latter articles being
+excessively scarce on board the Arctic ships, and proportionately
+valuable.
+
+On the 2nd of June, the day following their arrival, the little squadron
+once more put to sea. From that date the receipt of all letters ceased.
+No more telegrams; no loving missives; all intelligence from home must
+come to an end. We could live only for the future, and pray for a happy
+and speedy return. Before nightfall the high and rugged coast of
+Ireland had sunk below the eastern horizon, leaving nothing visible on
+the apparently boundless ocean but our three ships as they were lazily
+rocked by the long rolling swell of the broad Atlantic.
+
+  "The vessel gently made her liquid way;
+   The cloven billows flashed from off her prow,
+   In furrows formed by that majestic plough;
+   The waters with their world were all before."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.
+
+
+  "Now from the sight of land, our galleys move;
+   With only seas around, and skies above.
+   When o'er our heads descends a cloud of rain,
+   And night with sable clouds involves the main,
+   The ruffling winds the foaming billows raise,
+   The scattered fleet is forced to several ways.
+   . . . . . . . . . . And from our shrouds
+   We view a rising land like distant clouds,
+   The mountain tops confirm the pleasing sight."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+The next morning we found that on leaving England we had also left
+behind bright sunshine and blue skies, and in their place gloomy grey
+clouds were spread over us, while rain fell sullenly through the murky
+air. This, with head winds, was our normal condition for many days.
+Steam was occasionally raised during any lengthened periods of calm; but
+the report from the engineer that steam was ready was, as a rule,
+followed by a report from deck that a breeze was springing up, but
+invariably from an adverse quarter.
+
+On the 5th of June, in order to expedite our movements, the "Valorous"
+received permission to ignore the presence of a senior officer and make
+the best of her way to Disco; the "Alert" and "Discovery" continuing
+their course together.
+
+We were not many days together at sea before we discovered the good
+qualities of our ship's company. There was a willingness about them that
+could not fail to be appreciated, whilst the thorough good feeling that
+seemed to exist was highly satisfactory. As a proof of the desire of
+each one to assist his neighbour, it may not be out of place to mention
+that the petty officers of the "Alert," a day or two after leaving
+harbour, requested permission to take turns with the able seamen in
+steering the ship, a duty from which, by their position, they are
+usually exempt. It need hardly be said their wish was immediately
+gratified.
+
+During the passage our medical staff was busily engaged in ascertaining
+the physical capacities of every individual member of the expedition.
+These experiments were by some jokingly resented as an unauthorized
+system of mental and bodily torture. Every one's age was carefully
+noted; height and weight accurately ascertained; dimensions round the
+chest measured; and by means of an instrument called a spirometer the
+capacity of the chest was also obtained; a clinical thermometer was
+inserted into the mouth and kept there for an apparently interminable
+time for the purpose of ascertaining the temperature of the blood. The
+treatment we were subjected to in the cause of science was thus
+described by one whose acquaintance with the Royal Navy was only of a
+few days' standing: "I was unceremoniously laid hold of and measured,
+forced into a chair and weighed, was compelled to answer the most
+impertinent questions regarding my age and connections; a horrid
+instrument was kept in my mouth for an hour or more, and I was forced to
+blow into a machine until not a breath of wind was left in my body!"
+The results of all these experiments were duly registered, the intention
+being to compare them with a similar examination on the return of the
+expedition, in order to ascertain the effects of an Arctic life upon the
+physical development of our bodies.
+
+The appetites of the officers, rendered doubly keen by the fresh sea
+air, were so inordinate as to cause serious anxiety in the mind of our
+worthy caterer, who was fearful that the allowance of provisions would
+never last the specified time, at the rate they were then being
+consumed.
+
+From the fifth day after leaving port lime juice was regularly issued to
+every officer and man in the expedition. Being considered an
+indispensable antiscorbutic, it was essential that precautions should be
+adopted to ensure the certainty of each man drinking it daily. It was
+therefore the practice to serve it out on the quarter-deck every
+forenoon in the presence of an officer. This was never omitted during
+the whole period that our expedition was absent from England. With one
+or two exceptions the lime juice was drunk with pleasure by the men, and
+the exceptions were gradually educated, by taking it in small
+quantities, until their dislike was cured.
+
+In consequence of the limited stowage capacity on board, the officers
+were unable to provide themselves with a large stock of beer. A
+considerable quantity of wine and spirits, however, was laid in; but as
+an anticipated absence of three years had to be provided for, we were
+restricted to an allowance of two glasses of sherry per diem, a glass of
+port or madeira once a week, and a bottle of brandy or whiskey about
+every fourteen or fifteen days. On birthdays or fete days we were also
+indulged in a glass of port wine after dinner.
+
+Ten hogsheads of Allsopp's ale, brewed especially for the Arctic
+Expedition, were provided by Government and formed part of the ship's
+stores. It was grand stuff--"strong enough," as one of the men observed,
+"to make our hair curl!"
+
+We were not destined to enjoy fine weather long, and our passage across
+the Atlantic was by no means a pleasant or a comfortable one. Gale
+followed after gale. If they had only blown from the right quarter we
+should have been happy, but we had no such luck, they were sure to come
+ahead!
+
+What a lively ship was the "Alert"! making it utterly impossible to keep
+anything in its place. It was decidedly annoying, one day, when I
+entered my cabin to find my nice smart crimson table-cloth drenched with
+ink; but it was no use repining, and I could only exclaim, with Lord
+Dorset--
+
+  "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,
+   Are tumbled up and down at sea."
+
+Liveliness was not her only peculiarity, she was likewise excessively
+wet, and although battened down carefully it was impossible to keep the
+water from going below. To those who are uninitiated in nautical terms
+it must be explained that "battening down" means the careful closing and
+covering with a tarpaulin of every skylight and hatchway, in order to
+prevent the water from finding its way below. In spite, however, of
+these precautions, it is excessively difficult to keep the lower deck of
+a small ship dry during heavy weather.
+
+On the 13th it was blowing furiously with a terrific sea, and we were
+compelled to "lay-to" under very reduced canvas. During the night a
+large steamer, supposed to be bound for Quebec, passed close to us, so
+close indeed that we were compelled to burn blue lights in order to
+denote our position, so as to avoid collision.
+
+On the same night a heavy sea struck us, and washed away our starboard
+whale boat. Our consort also suffered the same loss. Nearly all our
+fowls, which were in hen-coops on the upper deck, were drowned; only two
+escaping! Fresh meat being scarce the manner of their death did not
+prevent their appearance on our table for some days. This gale had the
+effect of dispersing our little squadron, nor did we again assemble
+together until our arrival at Disco.
+
+No sooner had we recovered from the effects of one gale, than we were
+assailed by another. Our only consolation was, the very poor one of
+trying to believe that these storms would eventually be the means of
+assisting us in our passage through Melville Bay, by breaking up the ice
+and blowing it out of Davis Straits!
+
+The discomforts entailed by the perpetual bad weather did not in any way
+check the ardour of some of the officers in their praiseworthy
+endeavours to add to the scientific collections of the expedition. It is
+related, but I will not vouch for the authenticity of the story, that on
+one occasion, when the ship was labouring heavily, a huge sea washed on
+board, finding its way down through the skylight into the ward-room,
+where it splashed about from side to side with every roll of the ship.
+An officer, a most zealous and enthusiastic collector in all branches
+of natural history, being in bed at the time, thought that he detected
+by the dim light of a lantern some interesting, and perhaps unknown,
+specimens of zoology in the water. His landing net was immediately
+called into requisition, and, from his bed, he succeeded in fishing up
+some of these supposed wonderful organisms. The microscope was instantly
+produced for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of his find, when,
+to his great disappointment, he discovered they were simply grains of
+buckwheat--part of the stock that had been laid in for our unfortunate
+fowls!
+
+Our progress was tardy. On more than one occasion we were actually
+farther off Cape Farewell, the point of land we were striving to make,
+than on the day previous!
+
+As we approached Davis Straits, speculations were rife as to when and
+where we should meet our first ice. The greatest eagerness was shown by
+all on board to become acquainted with the enemy whose fastnesses we
+were preparing to attack and from which we hoped to return victorious.
+
+On the 25th of June, being still at some distance to the southward of
+Cape Farewell, a vessel was sighted steering in the opposite direction
+to ourselves. We passed at too great a distance to avail ourselves of
+such a favourable opportunity of sending letters to England, though
+there were many on board who showed an intense anxiety to communicate.
+We suspected, and our reasoning proved correct, that this would be the
+last vessel we should see for many a long day, and she was consequently
+watched with a great deal of interest. She was, in all probability, a
+homeward bound Peterhead vessel laden with _cryolite_. The cryolite is
+a rare mineral and the sole one which has become an article of trade in
+Greenland. It is found only in one single spot called Ivigtut in 61 deg. 10'
+N., imbedded like a massive body in the granitic rock, and not in veins
+or strata. In 1857 a licence was granted to a private company for
+working the cryolite, and in the first nine years 14,000 tons were
+exported in 80 ship-loads. During the next nine years the total export
+amounted to 70,000 tons. Cryolite is converted by a chemical process
+into soda and an alumina unequalled as regards purity and fitness for
+the art of dyeing.[1]
+
+As we neared the waters of Davis Straits, whales were observed in great
+numbers. They were principally what are called by the whalers
+"bottle-noses." This species of cetacean is the _Hyperoodon rostratus_,
+and is from twenty to twenty-six feet long, with teeth in the lower jaw.
+The "bottle-noses" are seldom sought and captured by the whalers owing
+to the small amount of oil that they yield, not more than a few
+hundred-weight of blubber being derived from each one of this species. A
+dead whale of the "right" or "Greenland" sort was also passed. What a
+prize for a whaler this would have been; worth about L1,000! but of no
+value whatever to us, so it was allowed to float by untouched. How the
+mouths of our ice quarter-masters, all hailing from those essentially
+whaling ports Dundee and Peterhead, watered as they beheld what by them
+would have undoubtedly been considered a god-send! The evident look of
+wonder, not unmixed with contempt, that showed itself upon their
+countenances was truly ludicrous when they found that we were about to
+pass so valuable a prize unheeded. This fish--for all "right" whales
+(_Balaena mysticetus_) are denominated "fish" by those engaged in their
+capture--had probably been struck by some whaler and, having succeeded
+in evading its persecutors, had since died of its wounds; or else it had
+been killed by the inveterate enemy of the whale the _Orca gladiator_,
+or "grampus," sometimes called "sword-fish," which pursues and harasses
+these harmless unoffending leviathans of the deep whenever opportunities
+offer. The rorqual, or "finner" (_Physalus antiquorum_), was also seen;
+it is easily distinguished from the right whale by the dorsal fin
+peculiar to this cetacean, and from which it derives its name. The
+rorquals are seldom captured, great difficulty being experienced in
+killing these huge monsters, which are frequently known to measure as
+much as ninety feet in length. Scoresby mentions one measuring one
+hundred and twenty feet. Great as is their size, however, the amount of
+blubber to be obtained from them is very insignificant. They feed upon
+cod-fish (as many as eight or nine hundred have been found in the
+stomach of one of these whales) and are constantly seen off the south
+and west coast of Greenland.
+
+A falling temperature on the 27th of June, and a peculiar light blink
+along the horizon, gave us due notice of the immediate proximity of ice.
+As the weather was thick and foggy extra precautions were adopted in
+order to guard against coming into serious collision with any icebergs,
+for, however beautiful these floating islands of ice may be during
+bright clear weather, they are dangerous and formidable foes when near
+and unseen.
+
+True to the warning received, an iceberg was shortly afterwards
+sighted, and by 4 P.M. the ship was steaming through loose detached
+fragments of heavy floe ice.
+
+It is impossible to describe the excitement that prevailed on board on
+this first introduction of many among us to that icy world in which we
+afterwards lived for fifteen months. To me it gave rise to reminiscences
+of old times, but to the uninitiated it was an exciting scene, and was
+gazed upon with intense interest.
+
+The officer of the watch, desirous of having the honour of making the
+ship first touch ice, and being also under the impression that a reward
+of a bottle of champagne would be given to him who should first succeed
+in doing so, steered straight for a heavy piece nearly submerged. His
+efforts were crowned with success, but they were also accompanied by a
+gentle admonition that for the future he should be a little more careful
+of her Majesty's property, and avoid all such fragments as were likely
+to knock a hole in the bows of the ship.
+
+On the following morning we sighted the high, bold, and snow-capped
+hills in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation. This headland was so
+called by that sturdy navigator, brave old John Davis, during his first
+voyage of discovery in the year 1585. In his quaint manner he describes
+"the land being very high and full of mightie mountaines all covered
+with snowe, no viewe of wood, grasse, or earth to be seene, and the
+shore for two leages into the sea so full of yce as that no shipping
+cold by any meanes come neere the same. The lothsome viewe of the shore,
+and irksome noyse of the yce was such as that it bred strange conceipts
+among us, so that we supposed the place to be wast and voyd of any
+sencible or vegitable creatures, whereupon I called the same
+Desolation."
+
+Icebergs were now constantly seen, some being of very considerable
+dimensions, and looming in the distance like real islands. As one of our
+men wittily remarked on seeing his first iceberg, it reminded him
+strongly of the Isle of Wight (white)!!
+
+The streams of ice through which the vessel was navigated were composed
+of fragments of heavy pack ice, that had in all probability drifted down
+the east coast of Greenland, and had been swept round Cape Farewell.
+They were of very deep flotation, and great care had to be taken in
+steering the ship through, so as to avoid striking these pieces more
+than was absolutely necessary; so heavily laden was the ship, that the
+force of the blows in some instances was very seriously felt.
+
+[Illustration: SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE.]
+
+Seals were seen basking lazily and dreamily on the ice, or following in
+our wake, staring inquisitively at us with their large round eyes,
+looking for all the world like human beings. The fabulous merman and
+mermaiden seemed to us easily accounted for. The seals observed were of
+two descriptions--namely, the _Pagomys foetidus_, or "floe-rat;" and the
+_Pagophilus Groenlandicus_, the "saddle-back," or common Greenland seal.
+
+Birds, common to these regions, hovered around, following us for days
+together and breaking the solitude that surrounded us with their joyous
+and gladsome presence.
+
+The 1st of July was a beautiful, bright, clear, sunny day, and to us was
+doubly welcome after the continuous bad weather which until now had been
+our lot. Not a ripple disturbed the calm surface of the sea as it lay
+blue and gleaming in the sunshine. Here and there a few small patches of
+ice reminded us of our proximity to the Arctic circle, while a certain
+sharp-bracing crispness in the air, together with a rather low
+temperature, served to assure us that the high snow-covered land in the
+distance was in reality "Greenland's icy mountains"--no hymnal myth as
+supposed by many, but grand ranges, devoid of all verdure, wrapped in
+their snowy mantle, and rising to an altitude of from two to three
+thousand feet above the level of the sea, a majestic and sublime
+reality.
+
+By noon we were off the little Danish settlement of Fiskernaes, and
+shortly afterwards passed that of Godthaab, but at too great a distance
+to make out the buildings or any signs of inhabitants. It was at
+Godthaab that Hans Egede landed on July 3rd, 1721, with his wife and
+children, and commenced his noble and disinterested labour of love among
+the Eskimos. The missionary institutions founded by Hans Egede and the
+Moravians have gradually incorporated the whole population of Greenland
+into Christian communities.
+
+The appearance of this part of the coast of Greenland was very striking,
+especially to those who were strangers to Arctic scenery. The mountains,
+with their peaks so pointed as scarcely to admit of the snow resting on
+their steep and almost precipitous sides, intersected by grand fiords
+and gorges penetrating for miles into the interior, formed a magnificent
+landscape.
+
+To the great relief and joy of all, we were on this day rejoined by our
+consort the "Discovery," who, like ourselves, had been roughly handled
+by the tempestuous weather since we lost sight of her in the Atlantic.
+
+Expecting to pass over the "Torske" banks, the dredge was prepared, and
+fishing lines served out; every one busy stretching and fitting their
+lines, and smacking their lips over an anticipated dinner of fresh cod
+and halibut. Soundings in thirty fathoms having been obtained on one of
+these banks, the ship was stopped and permission given to fish.
+Immediately fifty or sixty fishing lines were over the side; but,
+although our eager fishermen persevered for a couple of hours, no
+capture rewarded their patience. The "wily cod" remained sullen at the
+bottom, and could not even be induced to "nibble."
+
+The dredge was also put over, and hauled in with unimportant results,
+only a few echinoderms being obtained.
+
+During the night an iceberg of curious shape was passed. When first seen
+it was reported as a sail; on approaching it a little nearer it assumed
+the appearance of a huge column-shaped basaltic rock, and then that of
+a lighthouse; for some time it was really believed to be the former.
+
+On the 4th of July the Arctic circle was crossed. From this date, for
+some weeks, we were to have continuous day. The nights had for some time
+past been getting gradually shorter: now they had ceased
+altogether--candles and lamps were no longer necessary, bright sunlight
+reigned paramount.
+
+Two days afterwards the expedition was safely anchored in the bay of
+Lievely, off the little Danish settlement of Godhavn. Although small, it
+is the most important establishment in the Inspectorate of North
+Greenland, for here resides the Royal Inspector, who controls, with
+absolute authority, the large mixed population of Danes and Eskimos who
+inhabit this the most northern civilized land in the world.
+
+A salute of nine guns, from a small battery of three diminutive
+specimens of ordnance, welcomed our arrival, the smoke from which had
+scarcely blown away before Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, came on
+board, anxious to offer assistance, and desirous of extending the
+hospitalities of his house to the members of the expedition.
+
+Nothing could be more kind than the reception accorded us by the
+inhabitants of this little settlement. Their sole desire was to please
+and aid us in every way, and we were soon firm and fast friends with the
+innocent and simple-minded residents.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] See Dr. Rink's "Greenland," p. 79.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.
+
+
+  "Behold I see the haven nigh at hand,
+   To which I meane my wearie course to bend;
+   Vere the maine shete and beare up with the land,
+   The which afore is fayrly to be kend,
+   And seemeth safe from stormes that may offend."
+
+     SPENSER.
+
+It was with a very pleasing sensation of relief that we found the ship
+once more at rest, after thirty-four days of such knocking about as is
+seldom experienced at sea for so long a time without a break. The
+rolling and pitching to which a small ship is subjected in a heavy sea
+are never altogether agreeable, and the quiet and repose of a snug
+well-protected harbour are welcomed even by the "veriest old sea-dog."
+But, although free from the turmoil of the "angry waste of waters," our
+short stay at Godhavn can scarcely be called a period of rest. Much had
+to be done, coals had to be taken on board, and a nondescript quantity
+of stores and provisions received from the "Valorous" and stowed away.
+
+The days were long, however. We had arrived in the region where the
+midnight sun shone almost as brightly and gave as much light as at
+noonday; and if, in consequence, the men were kept longer at work than
+they otherwise would have been, they felt themselves amply compensated
+for their extra labour by the indulgence of a run on shore in the
+evening, and an open-air dance with the dusky and light-hearted beauties
+of the land.
+
+[Illustration: ESKIMO WOMEN.]
+
+Never did the deck of a man-of-war present such an untidy and confused
+appearance as ours did after receiving the last cask from the
+"Valorous." Casks and cases lay higgledy-piggledy amongst coals and
+ropes. Such a scene as our upper deck presented would have been
+sufficient to drive a smart first lieutenant distracted. We were,
+however, all much too practical to think of appearances, our sole
+thought was to be provided with enough of everything to guard against
+all accidents. Between decks was a repetition of the scene above, and it
+was with the greatest difficulty we could move from one part of the ship
+to the other. To add to the pleasing state of the vessel twenty-four
+Eskimo dogs--the number was afterwards augmented to thirty--were
+received on board, to be used in our sledging operations. Such a howling
+lot! No sooner did they arrive than a regular battle ensued, and we were
+compelled for some days to tie up a few of the most pugnacious, in order
+to secure anything like peace.
+
+This state of affairs, namely, the incessant fighting and squabbling
+amongst the dogs, continued until one had gained the acknowledged
+supremacy by thrashing the whole pack. This happens in all
+well-regulated dog communities. The conqueror is henceforth styled the
+"king" dog; he rules his subjects with despotic sway, frequently
+settling a quarrel between a couple of pugilistic disputants, reserving
+for himself the best of everything in the shape of food, the other dogs
+yielding their tit-bits with cringing servility, exerting a complete
+mastery over his canine subjects, and exacting from them the most abject
+homage. The dogs were kept as much as possible in the fore part of the
+ship, and soon became great favourites with the men.
+
+To take charge of this unruly pack, we obtained the services, through
+the kindness and assistance of Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, of a
+native Eskimo, who with his gun and kayak was duly installed on board in
+the capacity of dog-driver and interpreter. He rejoiced in the name of
+Frederic, and had the reputation of being a keen and successful hunter.
+Although he could not boast of good looks, his bright cheerful face and
+unvarying good temper soon made him a friend to all on board.
+
+The novelty of a never-ending day, for the first time experienced by so
+many in the expedition, sadly interfered with the natural time for rest
+and sleep. Long past midnight would the sounds of music and mirth be
+heard from the shore, as the dances were kept up with unabated vigour;
+while shrieks of laughter and merriment would be heard afloat, as the
+officers, indulging in aquatic tastes, would be seen rowing races in
+small collapsible boats, or trying their skill for the first time in the
+frail kayak. For the management of these latter fairy-like canoes great
+caution is required--indeed, it is hardly possible to manage them
+without much practice.
+
+Our first lieutenant was, however, an exception to this rule, for owing
+to experience acquired in canoes in various parts of the world, he
+succeeded in the management of the kayak so admirably as to excite the
+surprise and admiration of the natives. W----, another of our officers,
+not to be outdone by his mess-mate, also tried his skill in one of these
+little barks, but he had not paddled many yards before it capsized,
+leaving him head down in the water, with his legs firmly jammed in the
+boat. He would undoubtedly have been drowned before assistance could
+arrive had he not shown a wonderful degree of presence of mind. So
+securely was he fixed in his kayak, that it was only by unbuttoning his
+braces and getting out of his trousers that he succeeded in extricating
+himself from his dangerous predicament, leaving that article of dress
+inside the kayak!
+
+In spite of the multifarious duties connected with the ship, which kept
+every one fully occupied, the pursuit of science was not neglected.
+Several complete series of observations were obtained for the
+determination of the magnetic force. Photographs were taken, and
+geological and botanical collections were extensively made, whilst a
+boat with the first lieutenant and our energetic naturalist proceeded
+some little distance up the coast to a place called Ovifak for the
+purpose of obtaining information regarding some "meteorites" reported to
+have fallen there.
+
+The desire of "stretching one's legs" after being cooped up on board
+ship for so long was universally felt, and officers and men alike
+enjoyed a scramble over the lofty volcanic cliffs which overlie the
+gneiss in this part of the island of Disco.
+
+The difficulty of the ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, a range of hills
+about two thousand feet in height, situated on the northern side of the
+harbour, was amply compensated for by the view from its summit. Landing
+in a pretty little bay, in which lay the remains of an old steam whaler,
+the "Wildfire," that had fallen a victim to the ice some years ago, and
+emerging from the rather dense, though stunted, vegetation that grows
+luxuriantly at the base of these hills, the way led over precipitous
+basaltic cliffs, until by dint of hard climbing the snow-clad heights
+were reached.
+
+The accomplishment of this task, however, was both arduous and perilous,
+in consequence of the action of the frost on the rocks of which the
+cliffs were composed; for on the slightest touch they often crumbled
+away, rolling with a mass of _debris_ many hundreds of feet to the
+bottom.
+
+From the summit a glorious scene was revealed to us. The mainland of
+Greenland, that land so "wonderfull mountaynous, whose mountaynes all
+the yeare long are full of yce and snowe," was distinctly brought to our
+view, whilst immediately at our feet was the picturesque settlement of
+Godhavn, and the three vessels, resembling miniature toy-ships, lying at
+anchor in its snug little harbour. The Whale-fish Islands, a group in
+Disco Bay, lay spread out as it were on a map. Hundreds of icebergs
+dotted the perfectly placid sea, and beyond them we could plainly
+discern the great ice fiord of Jacobshavn with its gigantic discharging
+glacier behind, and the mouth of its fiord almost choked with huge
+fragments of ice, children of that same glacier. At brief intervals a
+noise as of thunder or distant artillery announced the disruption, or
+creation, of one of these wonderful islands of ice.
+
+We were not, however, allowed to enjoy this glorious scene in quietness.
+Our pleasure was marred by the attacks of swarms of musquitoes. These
+irritating insects assailed us on first landing, and persecuted us
+incessantly until we were again afloat.
+
+  "A cloud of cumbrous gnattes doe us molest,
+   All striving to infixe their feeble stinges,
+   That from their noyance we nowhere can reste."
+
+It was indeed hard to meet so far in the icy north our implacable
+enemies of the tropics!
+
+The descent was as dangerous, though perhaps not so laborious as the
+ascent. Occasionally we were able to avail ourselves of patches of snow,
+down which we slid, much to the astonishment and discomfiture of my dog
+Nellie, who was at a loss to understand the means of our rapid progress,
+and who rushed down after us barking frantically.
+
+We were excessively fortunate in our weather during our brief stay at
+Godhavn. We rejoiced in ceaseless sunshine, which lit up the surrounding
+hills with a golden light, throwing deep dark shadows into the valleys
+and ravines by which they were intersected, whilst the bright rays of
+the sun glittering on the ice-strewn surface of the sea formed a scene
+at once novel and sublime.
+
+Our short stay at Godhavn will, I think, always be regarded with
+pleasure by the members of the expedition. Nothing could exceed the
+kindness we received and the hospitality that was extended to us by the
+good people on shore, who appeared to vie with each other in their
+endeavours to render our visit an agreeable one. Nor was it only from
+the inhabitants that we received so much kindness. The captain,
+officers, and indeed I may say the ship's company of the "Valorous" were
+unremitting in their exertions to provide us with every necessary that
+it was in their power to supply, for the furtherance of the arduous
+service in which we were so soon to be engaged, depriving themselves of
+many things that they thought would add to our comfort.
+
+Although the Eskimos, according to Dr. Rink, and we can have no better
+authority respecting the natives of Greenland, have a pretty fair talent
+for writing and drawing, scarcely any traces of sculpture belonging to
+earlier times remain, with the exception of a few small images cut out
+in wood or bone, which had probably served children as playthings.
+Notwithstanding the want of means for handing down to posterity and
+retaining historical events amongst this interesting people, many
+traditions and legends have been preserved. Among the number is one
+relating to this island of Disco. It was supposed to have been situated
+off the southern coast of Greenland, and in consequence of its cutting
+off the inhabitants of the mainland from the open sea, a great dislike
+was entertained for it; for, to live comfortably, an Eskimo must be in
+the vicinity of the sea, so as to follow his usual avocation of seal
+hunting.
+
+The story relates that two old men, having set their wise heads
+together, determined to attempt the removal of the island with the aid
+of magic. A third old gentleman, however, desired to retain it in its
+position. The first two, launching their kayaks, fastened the hair of a
+little child to the island wherewith to tow it by; whilst the other,
+from the shore, attempted to keep it back by means of a sealskin thong.
+Desperately did the two kayakers labour at their paddles in their
+endeavours to move the island, chanting their spells as they tugged at
+the hair. But as resolutely did the third man hold on to his thong,
+straining every nerve to render their exertions abortive; suddenly, to
+his chagrin, the thong parted, and the island floated off, and was towed
+away triumphantly to the northward, where it was deposited in its
+present position.
+
+Another tradition says it was removed from Baal's River to its present
+site by a famous angekok, or magician, and that the harbour of Godhavn
+is the actual hole in the island to which the tow rope was fastened.
+
+On the afternoon of July the 15th, amidst much firing of guns and
+dipping of flags, the little squadron steamed out of the harbour,
+threading its way through innumerable icebergs, and passing along the
+high snow-clad hills that adorn the southern end of the island of Disco,
+proceeded towards the settlement of Ritenbenk, at which we arrived the
+following morning. The scenery as we approached the anchorage was truly
+magnificent. Lofty hills encompassed us on either hand, down whose steep
+sides the water was pouring in rapid cascades, produced by the thawing
+of the snow on their summits. How full of life and joy appeared these
+bright sparkling streams as they seemed to chase each other in wanton
+sport, skipping from rock to crag in their headlong career, until lost
+in one large sheet of glistening spray that poured over the edge of a
+precipitous cliff into the clear still water at its base!
+
+Thousands of birds congregate along the inaccessible ledges of these
+cliffs, perched in such precise order, and having such a uniformity of
+colour, that they resemble regiments of soldiers drawn up in readiness
+to defend their fortresses from the attacks of ruthless invaders. But
+fresh food was at a premium, and the wretched looms were doomed to
+suffer a long assault at the hands of our energetic sportsmen.
+
+Other and more weighty matters also required our attention. We were to
+bid farewell to the "Valorous" on the following morning. And with her we
+should lose the last connecting link with home.
+
+Letters had to be hurriedly finished, and then we had to bid adieu to
+one to whose untiring energy the departure of the expedition was due,
+who had been mainly instrumental in obtaining the sanction of Government
+for its dispatch, and who, leaving the comforts of a home life, had
+accompanied us thus far on our journey, sharing our discomforts, but
+adding to our knowledge from his rich fund of information, and
+enlivening our mess-table with his conversation and presence.
+
+We felt, whilst he was on board, that we were not quite separated from
+the civilized world. His departure made a chasm that it was difficult
+for some time to bridge over, but the memory of him lived long amongst
+us, and served to recall many a pleasant and happy hour.
+
+At four o'clock on the morning of the 17th the "Valorous" steamed away
+from us on her way to the coal quarries on the north side of the island
+of Disco, and, two hours after, the "Discovery" and ourselves put to
+sea, having increased the number of our dogs by purchasing several from
+the natives at Ritenbenk.
+
+The scenery in the Waigat, a strait separating the island of Disco from
+the mainland of Greenland, is very grand. The channel was rendered
+almost impassable from the number of icebergs of every fantastic form
+and shape that lay scattered about, and which, although adding
+materially to the beauty of the scene, made the passage one of no little
+intricacy: indeed we very narrowly escaped losing all our boats on one
+side of the ship by shaving a large iceberg a little too closely!
+
+On one side were the high snow-clad hills of Disco, intersected by deep
+and narrow ravines, whilst on the opposite side was a bold and lofty
+coast with precipitous headlands ending in needle-shaped peaks and
+separated by glaciers and fiords. Passing the beautiful large
+discharging glacier of Itivdliarsuk, many minor ones opened to our view
+as we sailed slowly past, presenting a panorama such as it would be
+impossible to depict faithfully on canvas.
+
+Several remarkable red patches, apparently of basalt, were observed on
+the bare gneiss hills in the vicinity of Point Kardluk, which is noted
+for the large quantity of vegetable fossils that have been found there,
+and close to the petrified forest of Atanekerdluk.
+
+Catching sight of the "Valorous" at anchor, busily engaged in procuring
+coal, we endeavoured to reach her, for the purpose of sending a few
+stray letters that had been inadvertently left behind; but a thick fog
+overtaking us, we were very reluctantly compelled to relinquish all idea
+of communicating, and had to be satisfied with reading the signal of
+"farewell" and "good wishes" that she threw out. It was fortunately
+distinguished before the vessels were effectually concealed from each
+other by an impervious fog which crept over the surface of the sea,
+hiding everything around us, though high above our heads the mountain
+tops were clearly to be seen.
+
+So dense did it become that we were, after a time, obliged to make the
+ships fast to icebergs to await a more favourable opportunity of
+advancing.
+
+Whilst attempting to secure the ships an alarming catastrophe occurred.
+The boat had been dispatched containing three men with the necessary
+implements, such as an ice drill and anchor, for making the vessel fast.
+
+As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivered the berg, to our
+horror, split in two with a loud report, one half with one of our men on
+it toppling completely over, whilst the other half swayed rapidly
+backwards and forwards. On this latter piece was another of our men, who
+was observed with his heels in the air, the violent agitation of the
+berg having precipitated him head foremost into a rent or crevasse. The
+water alongside was a mass of seething foam and spray; but curious to
+relate, the boat with the third man in it was in no way injured. They
+were all speedily rescued from their perilous position and brought on
+board, sustaining no further harm than that inflicted by a cold bath.
+Their escape appeared miraculous.
+
+By the next morning we were through the Waigat Strait. Much to our
+disappointment the weather remained thick, and we were in consequence
+unable to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand scenery to
+be found at the mouth of the Omenak fiord, which possesses some of the
+largest discharging glaciers in Greenland.
+
+On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an anchor off the Danish
+settlement of Proven.
+
+The harbour, which is small, is formed by two islands. On the western
+side of the easternmost of the two is situated the quaintest of quaint
+little settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the Governor's
+residence, the storehouse, boiling down establishment, smithy, about two
+other wooden habitations, and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it
+boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The Governor, who, in
+his endeavour to be civil, had boarded us before anchoring, apologized
+for not saluting, saying "that though he had the guns he had no
+artillerists." Although it was midnight before we arrived, the
+inhabitants were lining the side of the hill as we entered, the white
+boots and fur jackets and short trousers of the women affording a very
+novel though picturesque scene.
+
+The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being disturbed in their
+slumbers, set up a fearful howling, which, being answered by the dogs in
+both ships, produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert. The
+natives have a saying, when the dogs make this noise, "that they are
+holding their parliament." This is hardly flattering to the Greenland
+senate!
+
+During our short stay at this place a rough survey of the harbour was
+taken, and a number of scientific observations were made.
+
+Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the reception met with
+from all on shore. In the Governor's good wife I recognized an old
+acquaintance whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a former occasion
+during a cruise in a whaler to these regions.
+
+Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of Hans Hendrik, an
+Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter. This man had been employed in the same
+capacity in all the American expeditions to Smith's Sound, and was an
+invaluable acquisition.
+
+Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during our stay, dancing to
+their hearts' content.
+
+My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of admiration amongst the
+inhabitants, one man especially being very pertinacious in his request
+that she might be presented to him. On inquiring to what use he would
+put her, I was informed that my faithful companion would be converted
+into food for the man's oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black
+curly coat would serve to adorn his wife's person. Nellie, I think, had
+some notion of the designs on her life and skin, as in future she always
+regarded with disfavour not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their
+dogs and everything belonging to them.
+
+Leaving Proven on the evening of the 21st of July, we arrived on the
+same night off a remarkable headland called "Sanderson, his hope." It
+was so named by old John Davis, after his friend and patron, Mr. W.
+Sanderson, in 1587, and was the extreme northern point reached by him
+during his third voyage.[1]
+
+This prominent and precipitous cliff is a famous place for looms, as
+those white-breasted guillemots are termed, which are considered such
+rare delicacies on an Arctic table. They are the _Uria Brunnichii_ of
+naturalists, and are numerous in sub-Arctic regions. Their favourite
+breeding-places are along these terraced cliffs, where they assemble in
+large quantities.
+
+Of course so favourable an opportunity of procuring fresh food was not
+to be disregarded. The ships were hove to, and the boats, crammed with
+eager sportsmen, dispatched for the purpose of shooting for the "pot."
+
+Myriads of these birds were congregated along the face of the steep
+precipitous cliffs, in some places almost overhanging, which rose
+abruptly to an altitude of about a thousand feet. Owing, however, to the
+unsteadiness of the boats, caused by the roughness of the sea, our "bag"
+did not realize our anticipations. Many of the birds that were shot
+remained on the inaccessible ledges of the rocks, and were therefore
+lost to us; and many fell into the sea beyond, and were no more seen.
+
+The midnight sun was shining brightly during this _battue_, and we
+returned to the ship, after a couple of hours' sport, the richer by one
+hundred and seventy birds, each equal in weight to a fair-sized duck.
+For the succeeding three or four days we revelled in "loom soup," "loom
+pie," or "roast loom," and looms cooked in every imaginable form. No
+matter how they were served up, they were always pronounced to be
+delicious. Indeed, one of my messmates went so far as to say that he had
+never tasted anything better in his life. In fact, for the purpose of
+thoroughly enjoying a good dinner, a trip to the Arctic regions is
+indispensable!
+
+On the following morning we anchored off Upernivik,[2] the most northern
+settlement but one in Greenland. It is situated on one of the Woman
+Islands, so named by Baffin in 1616. The usual kindness and hospitality
+were extended to us here, as at all the other Danish settlements
+visited. We also received important information concerning the state of
+the ice to the northward, with a tabulated statement of all the
+meteorological observations obtained during the previous winter, a study
+of which would be of the greatest importance to us.
+
+In the evening, taking the "Discovery" in tow, we again put to sea, this
+time finally bidding farewell to civilization. From henceforth our
+energies and our thoughts must turn Polewards.
+
+As the last glimpse of the little church was shut out from our view,
+many a prayer was silently offered to Him in his infinite mercy to
+protect and guide us in our endeavours, and to vouchsafe us a safe
+return again to home and civilization.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] On his return to England he wrote to his friend, saying, "I have
+    been in 73 deg., finding the sea all open and forty leagues between land
+    and land. The passage (the N.W.) is most probable, the execution
+    easie, as at my coming you shall fully knowe."
+
+  [2] It is sometimes spelt Uppernavik. But Upernivik is the correct
+    form. See Rink, p. 354. It means spring in the Eskimo language.
+    Upernivik is in 72 deg. 48' N. The most northern Danish station is
+    Tasiusak, in 73 deg. 24' N.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.
+
+
+  "Embark with me, while I new tracts explore,
+   With flying sails and breezes from the shore.
+   Not that my song, in such a scanty space,
+   So large a subject fully can embrace.
+   Not though I were supplied with iron lungs,
+   A hundred mouths, filled with as many tongues.
+   But steer my vessel with a steady hand,
+   And coast along the shore in sight of land.
+   Nor will I try thy patience with a train
+   Of preface, or what ancient poets feign."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+Threading our way through narrow passages between numerous islands that
+lay to the eastward of Upernivik, and trusting to the knowledge and
+guidance of an Eskimo pilot, we felt at length that we had in reality,
+seen the last for some time, of our fellow men, and that our struggle
+with the almost insuperable difficulties of the frozen north was about
+to commence.
+
+Preparations for an unsuccessful combat with the ice were made, and
+every precaution was adopted necessary to ensure the safety of the men,
+in cases of extreme emergency. The boats were prepared for immediate
+service, each man having his allotted station, so that little or no
+confusion would ensue if the abandonment of the ships should be decided
+upon--an event that was by no means improbable. Ice-saw crews were
+organized in readiness for cutting a dock, in case such a proceeding
+should become necessary for the protection of the vessels. Provisions
+and clothes were so arranged along the upper deck that they could easily
+and readily be thrown out on the ice at a moment's notice. Knapsacks,
+each containing two pairs of blanket wrappers, one pair of hose, one
+pair of stockings, one pair of mitts, one pair of drawers, a Welsh wig,
+a jersey, a comforter, a pair of moccasins, a towel and small piece of
+soap, were packed and placed in some handy position where they could be
+reached without delay. The necessary tackles for lifting the screw and
+unshipping the rudder were provided: in fact every preparation was made
+that could possibly be thought of to guard against accidents and to
+promote success in the forthcoming conflict.
+
+On the morning after leaving Upernivik, on account of a dense fog, it
+was determined to anchor off one of the small islands composing a group
+through which we were passing, in order to wait for finer weather.
+
+Our pilot, getting into his kayak, offered to pioneer us into a little
+bay with which he was intimately acquainted. Being totally unable to
+realize the difference of size between the large unwieldy "Alert" and
+his own frail little bark, and probably imagining that where he was able
+to go in his tiny boat, we also could do the same, he led us close in to
+the land, which, on account of the thick fog, was hidden from our view,
+and we soon had the annoyance of finding our ship hard and fast on
+shore. Fortunately we were going very slow at the time, so that no
+injury was sustained; but we remained immoveable for many hours until
+the flood-tide floated us and enabled us once more to proceed.
+
+The dangers connected with a passage through Melville Bay are now so
+well known to all who have taken any interest in Arctic affairs, or who
+have devoted any time to the perusal of Arctic literature, that it is
+needless for me either to explain or dwell upon them at any length. Many
+a well-equipped ship has been caught in the fatal embrace of this bay.
+What tales of woe and disaster could its icy waters unfold, coupled,
+however, with deeds of heroic daring, endurance, and suffering!
+
+Captain Nares, determining to avoid the ordinary passage through this
+once dreaded bay, the dangers of which in these days of steam have been
+so materially lessened, pushed his ships boldly through what is
+generally termed the "middle ice." This, at such a late season of the
+year, is undoubtedly a wise course; but woe to the unfortunate ship that
+at an earlier period should be caught in this moving pack, and be there
+detained for thirteen or fourteen months, as the little "Fox" was, under
+the command of Sir Leopold McClintock!
+
+If the pack is composed of loose light ice, such as we found it to be,
+rendering a passage through it one of no difficulty, it may also be
+presumed that the ice in Melville Bay at the same time would be of the
+same consistency, thereby also affording an easy and safe passage
+through.
+
+The reason that the passage by Melville Bay is always taken by the
+whalers is the existence of fixed land ice, which is found adhering to
+the shores, and in which it is easy to cut a dock for the preservation
+of the ship if the heavy pack is forced by wind, or otherwise, towards
+it, thereby endangering any vessel that may happen to be between the
+two. Directly the pack moves off the vessel is liberated and proceeds on
+her voyage.
+
+It would be very different if the ship was caught in the pack. Then she
+would, in all probability, be severely handled, and being beset would
+drift to the southward with the ice and thereby lose all the hard-fought
+ground gained with so much labour and fatigue.
+
+One of the most important maxims in ice navigation, which is strictly
+followed out by the whalers, is "stick to the land-ice."
+
+We were certainly extremely fortunate in finding the pack so "loose" as
+to give us little trouble or difficulty in making progress. The ice was
+of a soft "brashy" nature, apparently only of one year's formation, and
+only from one to three feet in thickness. The weather being fine and
+calm, advantage was taken of it to steam full speed, for there was no
+saying how quickly the ice might pack with even a light breeze. The tow
+rope was accordingly cast off, and we proceeded at our highest rate of
+speed with the "Discovery" following close at our heels.
+
+Occasionally our progress would be checked by a stream of ice extending
+across the lane of water through which we were steering; but through
+these obstructions we bored, or charged them at full speed, and thus
+cleared a way. A walrus and a few seals were seen on the ice, but their
+capture did not hold out sufficient inducement to detain the ship.
+
+Very different from the apathy shown on passing these animals was the
+excitement exhibited when a bear, a veritable Polar bear, was seen on
+the ice. Such a rush for rifles and weapons of all descriptions! It was
+the first and only bear seen, and therefore the excitement its presence
+caused was natural. Every one appeared to share in it. Bear-skins were
+certainly on that day at a premium, for all were eager and anxious to
+become the fortunate possessor of such a prize. Master Bruin, however,
+did not reciprocate this feeling, and evinced an equal amount of anxiety
+to retain his nice warm coat.
+
+The engines were immediately stopped, and the boats crammed with
+volunteer hunters. These landing on the ice, advanced upon their quarry
+in skirmishing order, while the ship, steaming round to the opposite
+side of the floe, endeavoured to cut off his retreat. All was
+ineffectual. Bruin's strategic abilities were of too high an order for
+us to cope successfully with him in his own territories, and he escaped.
+Many rounds of ammunition, however, were fired at him both from the
+party on shore and also by those on board the ship, in the faint hope
+that a lucky shot might bring him down. To this day there are many who
+seriously believe that he carried away with him a portion of the bullets
+they so lavishly expended. So keen were some in the ardour and
+excitement of the chase that they rushed on, heedless of the rotten and
+treacherous nature of the ice, until an immersion in the cold water
+brought them to a sense of their danger and compelled them to seek
+refuge on board the ship, wet, cold, and uncomfortable. Many little
+rotges (_Alca alle_) were flitting about from the ice to the water, and
+the beautiful ivory gull (_Larus eburneus_) was also seen for the first
+time.
+
+[Illustration: POLAR BEARS.]
+
+In thirty-four hours from first encountering the ice we reached the
+North Water, and our troubles were for a time at an end. It was an
+unprecedented passage. Only seventy hours from Upernivik to Cape York!
+
+Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a beautifully smooth
+unruffled sea, devoid of all ice, was in front; everything pointed to
+success, and the hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and
+delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost realization of
+their hopes. Large icebergs were around us in every direction; but what
+cared we then for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North Water had
+been reached; our way lay northwards. In a few short days the entrance
+of Smith Sound would be reached, the threshold of the unknown region
+crossed, and then onwards to--where? We did not dare to anticipate, but
+we felt that the first step towards success had been gained, and that we
+had commenced our real work under most propitious circumstances. We
+would not predict, but we determined to deserve, success.
+
+It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation that this "North
+Water" had been so speedily and so successfully reached. Instead of only
+two or three weeks of the navigable season being available for us to
+penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound, owing to our rapid
+passage, we could reckon upon a clear month or five weeks before being
+compelled to secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which, our fuel
+had been very materially saved by this quick run, and this in itself, to
+ships situated as we were, was no unimportant matter.
+
+On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the "Discovery" was ordered
+to proceed shorewards for the purpose of communicating with the natives
+(the Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of inducing one
+of their number, a brother-in-law of Hans, to accompany the expedition;
+the "Alert" in the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands, at
+which latter place the "Discovery" was ordered to rejoin us.
+
+The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of about two miles from
+the shore, was most interesting. The hills along the coast were entirely
+clad with snow, whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far
+back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the everlasting _mer de
+glace_. Numerous glaciers of various sizes, some of them being
+discharging ones, rolled down to the water's edge in one vast icy sheet.
+The width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully seven miles.
+Fragments from these lay scattered along the coast in every direction,
+whilst we had to thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of every
+form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of Beverley, we were able to
+distinguish, in a few small patches, the so-called coloured snow whence
+the name originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of bright
+colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting illustrated work
+describing his voyage to Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this
+colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set at rest. It is an
+alga, the _Protococcus nivalis_.
+
+We did not reach the Cary Islands so soon as we expected, in consequence
+of experiencing a strong S.E. current that had not been anticipated. A
+sudden rise of temperature of the surface water naturally led us to
+suppose that it must be due to the absence of ice, which, raising our
+spirits, made us regard with displeasure any hindrance to our progress.
+
+Arriving off the Cary group early on the morning of the 27th, we were
+detained for a few hours landing a boat with a large depot of
+provisions, sufficient to sustain 60 men for two months, or 120 men for
+one month. The depot was placed on the easternmost island, and a large
+cairn was erected on the highest and most prominent point. Here also
+were deposited the last home letters which our friends were destined to
+receive until after our own arrival in England.
+
+The depot was established as a safeguard for us to fall back upon in
+case of any accident happening to our vessels in Smith Sound. From this
+position it was expected that a party duly provisioned would have little
+difficulty in reaching the northern Greenland settlements, or at any
+rate the simple but hospitable natives of Cape York, who would, it was
+anticipated, afford us protection and assistance. This duty having been
+accomplished, and having been rejoined by our consort, the northward
+course was resumed.[1]
+
+Crossing over to the eastward we steamed along on that beautifully clear
+sunny morning within a short distance of the western shores of
+Greenland. With the exception of icebergs, not a speck of ice was to be
+seen to disturb the smooth glassy surface of the sea. Passing the mouth
+of Whale Sound we made rapid progress northwards, steering between
+Northumberland and Hakluyt Islands, almost under their steep,
+precipitous, and in some places overhanging cliffs; on past Murchison
+Sound with the Crystal Palace glacier ahead, whilst on our port bow was
+easily discernible the opposite coast of Ellesmere Land, with the Prince
+of Wales Mountains, covered with snow or ice, rising above the western
+horizon.
+
+It was indeed a glorious sight as we passed close to this little known
+land, opening out, as we proceeded, its many and large glaciers
+glittering white and radiant in the sunshine, growing, as it were, out
+of the clouds and rolling down grandly towards the sea, until the opaque
+masses plunged sullenly and silently into the deep blue water.
+
+Animal life, so far as the feathered tribes were concerned, appeared in
+abundance. The lively little rotges or little auks (_Alca alle_) were
+seen in frequent clusters diving quickly under water as the ship
+approached. Looms (_Uria Brunnichii_), dovekies (_Uria grylle_), and
+king-ducks (_Somateria spectabilis_), alarmed at our appearance, rose in
+long flights, and circled around us uttering their discordant cries. The
+glaucous gull and the pretty kittiwake (_Larus tridactylus_) soared
+above our heads, whilst occasionally a graceful ivory gull (_Larus
+eburneus_) flapped its way leisurely along, its snowy wings contrasting
+with the background of clear blue sky. Here and there, on small
+fragments of floating ice, were seen huge walruses basking in the golden
+sunshine. Amid such scenes, which to be realized must be seen, the two
+vessels wended their way towards the entrance of Smith Sound, all elated
+with the fair prospect that was before them and hopeful for the future.
+
+At half-past seven on the morning of the 28th of July both ships came to
+an anchor in Hartstene Bay, more commonly known as Port Foulke, the
+harbour in which Dr. Hayes wintered in 1860.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] The Cary Islands consist of a group of eight islands, besides
+    small rocks or islets, and are situated in Baffin Bay, in lat. 76 deg.
+    45' N. They vary in size from two and a half miles in diameter
+    downwards. They are composed of syenitic and porphyritic granite,
+    overlaid in places with gneiss. They rise to a height of about 400
+    feet above the level of the sea, and possess a luxuriant vegetation,
+    at least for these regions. They are much frequented as breeding
+    places by the eider-ducks and looms.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+SMITH SOUND.
+
+
+  "Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles,
+   On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles.
+   Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow,
+   From wastes that slumber in eternal snow,
+   And waft across the waves' tumultuous roar
+   The wolf's long howl from Oonalaska's shore."
+
+     CAMPBELL.
+
+No sooner were the ships secured and breakfast discussed, than there was
+a regular rush for the shore. Some went for a scramble over the
+neighbouring glacier, named by Dr. Kane, "My brother John's glacier;"
+some went to collect specimens; others to take various scientific
+observations; and others to hunt and shoot--this spot having been found
+wonderfully prolific of game, more especially of reindeer, during Dr.
+Hayes's stay. No signs of any inhabitants were visible. This surprised
+us, as we were fully expecting to meet the natives of the village of
+Etah, situated only a couple of miles from the anchorage. A visit to the
+village during the course of the day proved the huts to be standing, but
+quite deserted. Traces of their having been recently inhabited were
+manifest, and portions of seal and walrus meat were discovered in
+_caches_, as if the migration was only temporary and a return was
+meditated. No other signs, however, of any living human being were
+found.
+
+Leaving to others the exploration of the country in the immediate
+vicinity of the harbour, Captain Nares and myself started, in one of the
+whale-boats, with four men, for the purpose of visiting Life-boat Cove,
+where some of the officers and crew of the "Polaris" spent their second
+winter, 1872-3, and also to search for an iron boat on Littleton Island,
+said to have been left there by Dr. Hayes in 1860.
+
+Sailing round Sunrise Point, we encountered a fresh northerly wind dead
+in our teeth, against which, under oars, we made but slow progress,
+whilst the cold spray flew aft into our faces where it almost froze.
+After about five hours' hard pulling Life-boat Cove was reached, and
+very glad we all were to get on shore and stretch our legs and restore
+the circulation of our blood.
+
+Immediately on landing we met with traces of the late occupants. These
+consisted of a large cairn--which, however, had been demolished by
+others previous to our arrival, probably by the searching expedition
+sent out in the "Tigress" in 1873--a basket lined with tin, and a trunk,
+neither of which contained anything of importance; indeed, their
+contents and the strong odour pervading them convinced us that they were
+now the property of Eskimos. Strolling on a little further, a boat was
+seen, which, although somewhat of European shape, appeared to be of
+Eskimo construction, as it was simply a framework covered with skins;
+yet it was undoubtedly built under a white man's superintendence.
+
+Continuing to advance until we reached the western extreme of the spit
+of land on which we had landed, we conjectured, from the amount of
+_debris_ by which we were surrounded, although no remains of a house
+were visible, that we were on the site of the Americans' winter
+quarters. Trunks, boxes, stoves, pieces of wood, gun-barrels, and odds
+and ends of all descriptions lay strewed about over an area of half a
+square mile--a desolate scene of ruin and misery!
+
+Some of the boxes were marked with the names of their previous owners,
+and contained, amongst other things, books, principally relating to the
+Arctic regions. One trunk contained a few small articles of female
+apparel, such as a lace collar and black veil, and some faded ribbons;
+souvenirs from some fair damsel at home, which had probably, from the
+thoughts their presence created, beguiled many a long and lonely hour
+during the monotonous winter night. Numerous cairns and _caches_, under
+which were deposited lumps of seal blubber, led us to suppose that the
+natives intended returning, especially with such a mine of wealth to
+attract them as an abundance of wood and iron, so invaluable to an
+Eskimo.
+
+Two other boats were also found, constructed in the same rude manner as
+the first. On one was painted, in good large letters, the word MAUMOKPO;
+though what it meant we were at a loss to conceive, but concluded it was
+an Icelandic name.
+
+Two Casella thermometers, marked as low as 130 deg. below zero, were also
+picked up in perfect order. It is to be regretted that these were not
+self-registering maximum and minimum thermometers, as it would have been
+most interesting to have ascertained the greatest amount of heat and
+cold at this spot during a period of more than two years.
+
+Collecting everything that we considered of the least value, such as
+books and instruments, for the purpose of returning them to the United
+States Government, and taking possession of a couple of boats, which we
+thought would prove useful at some of our depots, we embarked and
+proceeded towards Littleton Island, with our prizes in tow. Diligent
+search was made for the pendulum said to have been left by the "Polaris"
+people, but without success: also for the box chronometers and transit
+instrument, but with a like result. We could only come to the conclusion
+that, if these articles had been left there, somebody had been before
+us. Every cairn and _cache_ was thoroughly examined, and so was every
+nook and crannie within a radius of half a mile from where we imagined
+the house had originally stood. A chronometer-box was picked up, but
+empty.
+
+On landing at Littleton Island a careful search was instituted for
+Hayes's boat, but, although we made the complete circuit of the island,
+we failed to discover any traces of it whatever. At the south-west end
+we erected a cairn on the highest hill, about five or six hundred feet
+above the level of the sea, and obtained a round of angles with the
+theodolite. The view from the top of this hill was very cheering. Cape
+Sabine was distinctly visible; whilst farther to the northward could be
+seen the land about Cape Fraser, with _no signs of ice_! We were,
+however, too wary to indulge to excess in hopeful anticipations, knowing
+full well the vagaries of our capricious enemy, the ice; but still such
+a scene could not but tend to cheer and exhilarate, and send us back to
+our ship with light and buoyant hearts.
+
+It was past midnight before we reached the "Alert." Our sportsmen, we
+found, had been unsuccessful in their endeavours to shoot any reindeer;
+one, however, fell to the rifle of an officer of the "Discovery." Very
+few were seen, and those so wild as to render an approach within range
+no easy matter. Several ducks and a few hares, however, were obtained.
+
+Leaving Port Foulke on the following morning, we crossed over to the
+west side, and erected a large cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella,
+about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. The ascent of this
+headland was both arduous and dangerous. The face of the cliff was very
+precipitous, and it was only by a zig-zag course that it could be
+effected. At one moment the way led over loose shingle, that gave way
+under the feet at every step; at another over a broad patch of frozen
+snow, one false step on whose slippery surface would precipitate one
+many hundred feet below; and at another we were clinging desperately
+with hands and feet to the hard, smooth, syenitic granite rocks, of
+which this cape is composed. Very thankful were we when the summit was
+reached; but much more so when we found ourselves again at its base,
+sound in wind and limb. To add to the difficulties, there was a high
+wind and dense snowstorm.
+
+At a less high elevation, and in a secure niche amongst the rocks, were
+deposited an empty cask and about one hundred and fifty pounds of
+preserved beef. The cask was intended for the reception of any letters
+that might be brought up by a Government ship in the following year, or
+by any enterprising and adventurous whaling captain who should penetrate
+so far in order to bring us news. The provisions were left as a small
+depot for any sledging party that might be dispatched to the southward.
+The site was marked by a small cairn. Records were left at each of these
+cairns detailing the movements and the prospects of the expedition,
+together with instructions regarding our letters, should any be brought
+thus far.
+
+Some beautiful little yellow poppies were gathered on the slopes and
+crests of the hill, whilst the draba and saxifrage were found growing in
+profusion.
+
+The navigation of these icy seas is most uncertain! Within twenty-four
+hours of the time that, from the summit of Littleton Island, we had been
+cheered by the view of an apparently open sea free of ice, and extending
+in our imagination for miles to the northward, we were battling with the
+pack, consisting of large floes and loose broken-up fields, that
+extended on both sides of us and as far north as we could see. From this
+period our troubles commenced; from this date our progress was one
+endless and unceasing struggle with the ice: ever on the watch, and
+never allowing a favourable opportunity to pass unheeded.
+
+Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was observed stretching
+across Baird Inlet--the fixed land ice with loose detached streams. As
+we proceeded more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded
+us, and we only succeeded, after much boring and charging, in forcing a
+way through, and into a well-protected little harbour to the southward
+of Cape Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation in the land
+having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E. which acted as a famous
+breakwater, and was protected seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were
+detained for five days, although several attempts were made to proceed,
+which resulted in one instance in a hopeless besetment in the ice for
+some hours. The pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait
+patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage. The place was in
+consequence called "Bide-a-wee" Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer
+Harbour, after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of that name.
+
+During our detention the time of the officers was not unprofitably
+spent. A rough survey of the place was made, its position was correctly
+ascertained, a series of magnetic observations were obtained, and long
+walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during which a large and rich
+collection was made in the interests of geology and botany. No game of
+any description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered, but
+evidently of an ancient date. They consisted of the remains of igdlus or
+huts, also some bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of a
+sledge.[1] Tidal observations were also taken in the harbour.
+
+Here also, it may be said, we received our first lessons in the art of
+sledging; for, wishing to be initiated into its mysteries, a party,
+consisting of four officers and five men dragging one of our large
+twenty-feet ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the pack. Our
+main object was of course to derive some practical experience in this
+all-important mode of Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we
+succeeded.
+
+We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with narrow water spaces between,
+_just_ too broad to admit of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently
+wide to launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at one time the
+bows of the boat would be seen rising almost perpendicularly in the air,
+whilst all hands were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes
+to the tune of "one, two, three, haul;" at another time the sledge would
+come down the side of a hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly
+time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and boat coming over
+us, and many were the falls in consequence. It was, however, rare fun.
+Once while launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly capsized;
+as it was she half filled, and everything inside--provisions, clothes,
+instruments, guns, and ammunition--was thoroughly saturated. A gold
+watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not improved by its
+immersion.
+
+Another source of amusement during our stay in this harbour was chasing
+"unies," as narwhals are invariably called by the whalers; but, although
+a good deal of patience and perseverance was displayed in attempts to
+harpoon them, these qualities were never rewarded, and the boats always
+returned unsuccessful from their pursuit.
+
+Our little check in this harbour produced a slight despondency in those
+who, for the previous few days, had been most sanguine of pushing on.
+This was always alluded to in the ward-room as the depression of the
+social barometer, and was for the future daily registered!
+
+On the morning of the 4th of August, a southerly gale having blown all
+the previous night, a channel of open water was visible as far as Cape
+Sabine. This was an opportunity not to be lost. Accordingly, at 4 A.M.,
+the anchors were weighed, and, before a fresh but bitter cold wind, both
+ships made sail, and succeeded, after having made so many futile
+attempts, in rounding the Cape. Bearing away to the westward we steered
+up Hayes Sound, keeping close in to the land, the grounded icebergs
+giving us timely notice of shoal water. At noon, opening a perfectly
+land-locked bay, and the ice being so closely packed ahead as to defy
+farther progress, the vessels were steered for the entrance, and we soon
+found ourselves in a beautiful inlet enclosed by high land, but bounded
+on one side by one of the grandest sights it is possible to behold: two
+enormous glaciers coming from different directions, but converging at
+their termination. They reminded us of two huge giants silently
+attempting to push and force each other away.
+
+It was indeed a noble sight, and filled us with impatient curiosity for
+the moment when we could land and indulge in a closer inspection.
+
+Accordingly, the anchors were no sooner let go than several started for
+the purpose of paying it a visit. Landing abreast of the ship, we had
+rather a rough and tumble sort of a scramble over loose masses of
+gneiss, until we emerged on the banks of the bed of the glacier--that
+is, the bed formed by the water running from the glacier during the
+summer thaws. The walking was most laborious, at one moment through a
+wet swampy bog, and at another over rough sharp-pointed stones.
+
+The vegetation appeared luxuriant, and we found the traces of musk-oxen,
+reindeer, wolves, foxes, and hares in abundance; but, although we were
+provided with guns, we failed to secure any game, for the simple reason
+that we saw none. But the traces of musk-oxen were very fresh, and
+several horns of the reindeer were picked up. After a tedious walk of
+about four or five miles we arrived at the glacier--the stupendous and
+sublime work of ages. How insignificant and despicable did we appear in
+comparison to this gigantic creation of Nature! I can compare it to
+nothing except, perhaps, a frozen Niagara! The left-hand glacier was
+rounded off, like a huge icy wave to its end, whilst it receded from our
+view in long milky undulations until lost in the clouds. The right-hand
+one--the lateral and terminal sides of which were quite precipitous--was
+pressing against its neighbour until it had raised a slight ridge
+between the two. We were naturally desirous of ascending one or both of
+these glaciers, but time would not admit of such an undertaking, and we
+were therefore compelled to content ourselves by standing upon a small
+projection of each glacier, so as to be able to say that we had been on
+them.
+
+That Eskimos had visited this locality was certain; for we discovered on
+our way out the site of an old settlement, and on the way back we
+observed two large cairns that had evidently been used as _caches_.
+
+Alexandra Bay and Twin Glacier Valley, as they were henceforth
+designated, were the nearest approach to an Arctic paradise that we saw
+during our sojourn in the Polar Regions. A sheltered and well-protected
+harbour, with a locality abounding in game of various descriptions, are
+of such importance that it is impossible to prize them too highly. They
+should be the first and grand objects to be taken into consideration
+whilst selecting a spot for winter quarters.
+
+Although we were not fortunate in obtaining game during our stay of only
+a few hours in this interesting neighbourhood, I have not the slightest
+doubt that, had we penetrated a little farther into the interior, or had
+we remained here a day or two longer, we should have been rewarded by an
+ample supply, the traces that we observed being both numerous and
+recent.
+
+From tidal observations made during our brief stay in this harbour, we
+found that the flood tide in Hayes Sound came from the eastward, but
+that the ebb coming from the westward was the strongest. Whether Hayes
+Sound was a strait opening out to the westward or only a deep inlet was,
+and remains, a matter of uncertainty.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] The fact of one of these spear-heads being tipped with iron,
+    although they all bear the semblance of great age, would lead one to
+    suppose that the tribe by whom it was left must have had some
+    intercourse with Europeans, unless meteoric iron was used. This would
+    be a very interesting question to decide.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.
+
+
+  "On those great waters now I am,
+     Of which I have been told,
+   That whosoever hither came
+     Should wonders there behold.
+
+   "Trim thou the sails, and let good speed
+     Accompany our haste;
+   Sound thou the channels at our need,
+     And anchor for us cast.
+
+   "A fit and favourable wind
+     To further us provide,
+   And let it wait on us behind,
+     Or lackey by our side."
+
+     GEORGE WITHER.
+
+The morning following our arrival in Alexandra Harbour saw us again
+battling with the ice in Hayes Sound, having been deluded into leaving
+our comfortable snug quarters by the report that the pack had drifted to
+the eastward, leaving a navigable channel extending to the north. The
+report was fallacious, but we succeeded in threading our way to the N.W.
+for about twenty miles, when both ships were helplessly beset, with but
+little hope of extrication without a shift of wind.
+
+Many broad glaciers were in view, winding their long white snaky
+lengths between the hills, some of which could be traced into the
+interior for ten or twelve miles, or until lost in illimitable space.
+
+In twenty-four hours, the ice slackening enabled us to bore a way
+through, eventually emerging into a broad stream of water. How sudden
+and wonderful are the changes in these regions! From being closely
+beset, a couple of hours saw us in an apparently open sea with _no ice_
+in sight, and bowling along before a fresh southerly gale at the rate of
+seven knots. Social barometer very high! In the morning not a spoonful
+of water to be seen in any direction, in the evening not a vestige of
+ice!
+
+Passing close to the western shore we were able to confirm our views
+regarding the Henry and Bache Islands of Hayes. They are undoubtedly
+connected, and therefore not islands; but whether they were also
+connected with the mainland we were not able to determine. In all
+probability the supposed islands are a peninsula, apparently of
+sandstone formation overlying trap, different to the granitic formation
+of the southern shore of the strait. The land appeared quite bare of
+vegetation, and bore a strong resemblance to the Silurian limestone
+formation of the land about Prince Regent Inlet, showing stratifications
+dipping to the northward at an angle of about 6 deg..
+
+It does not do to indulge too freely in vain hopes in these regions. A
+period of eight hours was sufficient to cause our hopeful anticipations
+of a grand run to the northward to be "considerably eased down;" for in
+that time we were again stopped by the ice, and compelled to make fast
+to a floe, until the pack opened sufficiently to allow us to proceed.
+During the run we passed some very heavy floes--heavier than anything
+we had hitherto met, and quite sufficient in themselves to crush any
+unfortunate ship that should happen to get nipped between two of them.
+
+Off Albert Head great excitement was caused by the floe, to which both
+ships were secured, being driven towards a large grounded iceberg. To be
+squeezed between the two would be fatal. Our destruction seemed
+inevitable. Yet we on board were helpless to avert the catastrophe. All
+that we could do was to prepare for a severe nip: unship the rudder, and
+lift the screw, and having taken every precaution to ensure the safety
+of the crew, in the event of the ship's demolition, we could only look
+on, and in silence witness, as we thought, the irresistible and
+destroying powers of the Ice-King.
+
+The "Discovery" was at first in the most critical position, but a slight
+swerving of the floe relieved her from any immediate danger, whilst the
+same movement of the ice intensified our own.
+
+Nearer and more swiftly were we hurried towards the grim and motionless
+berg, up whose sides the floe, as it came into contact with it, was seen
+to be literally walking and forcing its way, crumbling and falling into
+shapeless masses at its base.
+
+Escape appeared impossible. It seemed hard at the very commencement of
+our voyage thus to lose our ship, and with it all hopes of success.
+Suddenly, when our fate seemed almost decided, the berg turned slightly,
+splitting up the floe to which we were secured and sending us clear. It
+was a narrow shave, and although we suffered a slight nip, no material
+damage was sustained.
+
+Being myself too fully occupied with the work on deck, one of my
+messmates kindly packed a few of my valuables together, ready to take
+away in case of having to abandon the ship. On going below after the
+ship had been secured, I found carefully packed in a haversack my
+journals, Bible and Prayer-Book, a few photographs, and three boxes of
+sardines!
+
+It must not be supposed that we passed in idleness those days that we
+were beset in the ice and unable to advance. As a rule our time was more
+fully occupied then than when we had leads of water in which we could
+proceed. Steam had to be kept ready for any sudden emergency, and a
+constant watch had to be kept on every movement of the pack. Frequently
+had the ice anchors to be tripped and the vessel moved, in order to
+avoid bergs or floes closing in upon and nipping us. Occasionally, when
+the pack opened, or appeared what we called "slack," we would attempt to
+bore through; but as this invariably entailed a large consumption of
+fuel, and gave very little result, it was not resorted to more than was
+absolutely necessary. Every opening in the ice was taken advantage of,
+by which we slowly but surely made progress northwards.
+
+The crow's-nest was never deserted. In it Captain Nares might almost be
+said to live, rarely coming on deck even for his meals; as for a night's
+rest, such a thing to him was quite unknown. From the "nest" the motions
+of the ice were closely scrutinized, the tides and currents were
+studied, and the influence of the wind on the pack ascertained. No
+opportunity was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing
+watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in advancing, although it was
+only inch by inch.
+
+Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the 8th of August, but at
+the expense of damaged rudder-heads to both ships, caused by the
+constant backing into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking
+through slight streams that offered impediments to our advance. A
+detention here enabled us to pay the shore a visit. Great difficulty was
+experienced in landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the land,
+which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall rising to the height of
+about twelve feet. Indeed it was more overhanging than perpendicular, as
+the action of the water had considerably undermined its base and
+therefore rendered it almost inaccessible. By the aid of a long
+boat-hook staff and some rope we succeeded in clambering up, at the
+expense of bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting like
+penknives. This proceeding was not unattended by a certain amount of
+danger, for had the ice given way we should have been precipitated into
+the boat, in which case we should have been extremely lucky to have
+escaped without a fractured bone or limb.
+
+The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of which the hills were
+composed made the walking very arduous, added to which a thick fog and
+snowstorm that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so far as
+ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward and the prospect of
+pushing on were concerned. The steep cliffs surrounding this prominent
+headland are wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and
+weather, and present the same "battlemented" appearance so common to the
+Silurian limestone formation of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and
+Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but, with the exception
+of some sprigs of the stunted willow and a single tuft of saxifrage,
+the land was devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched away into
+the interior, entirely free from both snow and ice. Traces of former
+inhabitants were discovered along the beach, consisting of the site of
+an Eskimo settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps.
+
+Hitherto the traces of these interesting tribes have been continuous
+along the western side of Smith Sound, and tend, in my opinion, to prove
+conclusively that the Eskimos were in former days far more numerous than
+they are at the present time. What has become of them? The solution of
+this important ethnological question would be of the greatest interest.
+Have they gradually died out? or have they migrated farther south, and
+are now represented by the "Arctic Highlanders," and by tribes settled
+on both sides of Lancaster Sound who are frequently visited by our
+whalers?
+
+It is certain that at some remote time there was a movement of Eskimo
+tribes from Asia towards Greenland in these high latitudes, for traces
+of their encampments have been found along the shores of the Parry group
+from Melville Island to Lancaster Sound, where they are still living in
+Dundas Harbour and in Admiralty Inlet. The late Admiral Sherard Osborn
+and my cousin, Mr. Clements Markham, paid great attention to this
+subject during the Arctic Expedition of 1850-51, and prepared a
+descriptive list of all the Eskimo vestiges along the whole length of
+the Parry group.[1] We now traced similar remains up the western side
+of the channels leading north from Smith Sound, at Cape Sabine, on the
+shores of Buchanan Strait, on Norman Lockyer Island, on Capes Hilgard,
+Louis Napoleon, Hayes, and Fraser, at Radmore Harbour, and Bellot
+Island. The most northern point where human remains were discovered was
+at Cape Beechey, in 81 deg. 54' N. Here our naturalist found the framework
+of a large wooden sledge, a stone lamp, and a snow scraper made of
+walrus tusk. Beyond this point there was no sign of any human being
+having preceded us. This is the utmost northern known limit of Eskimo
+wandering, and here they appear to have crossed the strait, and to have
+made their way southward on the Greenland side. The most northern
+permanent human habitation in the world is now at Etah, near Port
+Foulke, and, under present climatic conditions, it would be impossible
+even for the Etah Eskimo to exist at Cape Beechey, in 81 deg. 54' N.,
+whither their ancestors must have wandered in remote times. There is
+much yet to learn respecting these marvellous wanderings along the
+Arctic shores; and our expedition has certainly thrown considerable new
+light on the question. We have fixed the most northern limit of the
+Eskimo migrations, and have established the fact that they did not come
+from the north down Smith Sound, but merely wandered round its shores
+until the palaeocrystic floes in Robeson Channel made them despair of
+finding there the means of supporting life. We have also proved that the
+people seen by Captain Clavering on the east coast of Greenland in 1823
+could not have come round its northern extreme, but that they had found
+their way to the neighbourhood of the Pendulum Islands from Cape
+Farewell. They are useful contributions towards the final solution of a
+very important ethnological question, which, however, cannot be fully
+and conclusively settled until all the unknown parts of the Polar area
+have been explored.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] See the "Selection of Papers on Arctic Geography and Ethnology,"
+    printed for the use of the Expedition by the Royal Geographical
+    Society, p. 163.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+WALRUS HUNT.--DOG DRIVING.
+
+
+  "So Zembla's rocks, the beauteous work of frost,
+   Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast;
+   Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away,
+   And on the impassive ice the lightnings play;
+   Eternal snows the growing mass supply,
+   Till the bright mountains prop the incumbent sky:
+   As Atlas fixed, each hoary pile appears,
+   The gathered winter of a thousand years."
+
+     POPE.
+
+During the remainder of the navigable season, I propose to present the
+narrative of the voyage in the form of a diary, giving the extracts as
+they were written down at the time, when the events they record were
+fresh in my memory.
+
+_Sunday, August 8th._--Snow fell very heavily during the forenoon,
+completely covering the surrounding hills, and lying several inches deep
+on our deck. Clearing up in the afternoon we found ourselves completely
+beset by the ice and drifting shorewards. Steam was resorted to and
+every effort made to reach a narrow lane of water, only a hundred yards
+distant, but without success. At four o'clock the ship experienced a
+slight nip, the ice piling up as high as our main chains, but
+fortunately for us it was of too soft a nature to do much damage. Half
+an hour afterwards the nip eased and the pack commenced to open, showing
+broad lanes of water. This sudden slackening of the ice was due to the
+total cessation of wind. We soon extricated ourselves from our
+unpleasant situation, and lay in eager readiness to take advantage of
+any opportunity of advancing that might offer itself.
+
+11.30 P.M.--The ways of ice are indeed inscrutable! Five hours ago
+Grinnell Land loomed in the distance, and we had little prospect of
+reaching it for some time. Now we are actually made fast to the land-ice
+in Franklin Pierce Bay on the southern shore of Grinnell Land!
+
+We esteem ourselves particularly fortunate in having reached thus far.
+Cape Fraser is not far distant, and this appears to be our Rubicon. Once
+passed, fewer difficulties are anticipated. We may very fairly reason
+that to the northward of this promontory will be found a "North Water"
+similar to the one north of Baffin Bay, the ice remaining in the broad
+part of Smith Sound like the middle pack in Baffin Bay and Davis
+Straits.
+
+In the latitude of Cape Fraser Kane reported what he called an open
+Polar Sea, Hayes the same, whilst the "Polaris" actually navigated for
+some distance this "North Water." Why-should we find it different?
+
+The ice opened this afternoon in a miraculous manner, in one long lead
+from land to land, sufficiently wide for us to pass through; and then,
+as if it had opened expressly for us, closed again, and with such
+rapidity that our consort, who was following in our wake, having lagged
+a little behind, was caught and remained beset for some time;
+eventually, however, boring through and rejoining us.
+
+_August 9th._--We succeeded this morning in pushing on for three or four
+miles, when, being completely stopped by the ice, we were again
+compelled to make fast. In consequence of the heavy fall of snow
+yesterday, the surface of the water was coated with a soft sludgy
+substance, half ice and half snow, which greatly impeded our progress.
+
+The statement made by Dr. Hayes in his interesting work, that "along the
+entire coast of Grinnell Land no glacier appears," is slightly
+inaccurate; for at the head of Franklin Pierce Bay two tolerably large
+glaciers are situated, whilst another was seen a few miles to the
+westward on the same coast. Doubtless Dr. Hayes intended to say
+_discharging_ glaciers, in which case he would, I think, be nearly
+correct.
+
+For three days were we detained, without the ice allowing us the
+slightest chance of moving, during which time a complete series of
+magnetic observations was obtained on the floe, the inclination of the
+needle being as much as 85 deg. 34'. Both the dredge and trawl were also put
+into requisition and with good results. Amongst the many zoological
+curiosities brought to the surface, from a depth of fifteen fathoms,
+were some crinoids. These echinoderms are very rare, few specimens
+having been met with, until the deep-sea dredgings of the "Challenger"
+brought them more into notice.
+
+A small island, since called Norman Lockyer Island after the
+distinguished astronomer of that name, was visited, and its highest
+eminence ascended for the purpose of watching the movements of the pack.
+Landing on the ice-foot that fringed the shore, we stepped on to a long
+shaly beach that rose in well-defined and regular terraces to at least
+two hundred feet above the level of the sea, showing the different tidal
+marks, and illustrating clearly the gradual upheaval of the land.
+Numerous traces of Eskimo were discovered on this small and remote
+island, consisting of the sites of several encampments, and a bone
+harpoon point, all apparently of very ancient date. The highest part of
+the island is from five to six hundred feet above the sea. It is of
+limestone formation, and on several of the rocks, especially those at
+its summit, distinct glacial marks were detected. Vegetation was scanty,
+although here and there the poppy, saxifrage, and willow could be seen
+cropping up between the stones.
+
+Here too we succeeded in harpooning a couple of walruses. Three of these
+large animals were observed on a piece of ice, their large ungainly
+forms stretched out, lazily enjoying their _siesta_. Volunteers were not
+wanting for the purpose of attempting their capture; but as an
+indiscriminate attack would only lead to failure, it was determined to
+despatch one of the whale boats, specially fitted with a harpoon gun,
+and all the necessary implements and gear for securing these animals, in
+order to effect in a more organized and skilful manner the object we had
+in view.
+
+Great difficulty was experienced in approaching our prey, as the boat
+had to be hauled over loose fragments of ice, and pushed through a
+sludgy consistency of soft ice, snow, and water, in which the oars were
+useless; so that it was feared the unavoidable noise would disturb and
+frighten them away. At length, after much trouble and no little
+exertion, we succeeded in getting within about eight yards, so sound
+was their repose, without exciting any suspicion in their minds that
+danger was lurking in their vicinity. At that distance, however, they
+evinced a degree of restlessness, by lifting their shaggy heads and
+uttering jerky spasmodic snorts, that showed us only too plainly a
+retreat was meditated.
+
+[Illustration: WALRUSES.]
+
+Selecting the largest of the three as his victim, our harpooner
+carefully laid his gun. A moment of breathless suspense followed, to be
+relieved by the report of the gun, a roar of pain and rage, and the
+disappearance in the water of the three walruses, while the piece of
+ice, on which a moment before they had been reposing, was covered with
+blood, convincing us that our shaft had taken effect. If any further
+proof was required in corroboration of this fact, a tugging at the line
+and the sudden moving of the boat was sufficient. Lances and rifles were
+quickly seized; for these animals, when wounded and maddened by pain,
+are ugly and dangerous customers, and have frequently been known to rip
+the planks out of a boat with their formidable tusks, and thus
+seriously endanger the lives of the crew. We had not long to wait; a
+disturbance in the water close alongside denoted that our victim was
+coming to the surface. An instant after, his bearded face with every
+expression of infuriated rage and demoniacal hate, his fiery eyes
+glaring with vengeance, appeared, and was immediately saluted with two
+or three rifle bullets. This warm reception served only to incense and
+irritate him, and he tried hard to wreak his vengeance on the boat; but
+his enemies were too powerful, and with the united aid of bullets and
+lance thrusts the unwieldy beast was forced to succumb to the superior
+power of his human antagonists. Towing the great carcase back to the
+ship, it was hauled up on the floe, and quickly _flinched_.[1] The
+blubber and flesh were packed in barrels, making a very welcome addition
+to the small amount of food that we had on board for our dogs.
+
+Another walrus was harpooned on the following day, and these were the
+only two captured by the expedition during their stay in the Arctic
+regions. Walrus steaks, from this date, were for some time in great
+demand, whilst the liver was pronounced to be perfectly excellent, and
+even superior to pig's fry!
+
+As a rule these animals are exceedingly difficult to kill, for in
+addition to their enormously thick skulls and coating of almost
+impenetrable skin and blubber, they are excessively tenacious of life. A
+rifle bullet, although a walrus may eventually die of the wound, is more
+than useless, as it will effectually scare him away, and thus all chance
+of securing him is lost. The only sure way of succeeding in their
+capture is by the use of the harpoon, and this weapon of course is only
+available at short distances.
+
+During the temporary delays of the ships in the ice, amusement was not
+forgotten, and we often had rare fun. It is a very important point in an
+Arctic expedition to keep the men constantly employed and interested,
+otherwise they would, more especially when their onward progress was
+checked, be subject to gloomy moods and fits of despondency. Care,
+therefore, should be taken to guard against these feelings.
+
+Amongst the numerous games purchased by the expedition before leaving
+England was a football, which, on occasions of this sort and when the
+ice would admit of it, would be produced, and a game kept up with great
+spirit, though with an utter disregard of all orthodox rules. So long as
+Jack got his kick, no matter in which direction the ball was propelled,
+he was satisfied! Officers and men would alike mingle in the game, every
+one determined to carry out the one grand object, namely, that of
+enjoying themselves. Skating and sliding on the ice were also
+accomplishments that afforded much pleasure and amusement, and were
+freely indulged in by all, irrespective of age or rank. Sometimes our
+Eskimo dogs would be taken out on the floe and harnessed to an empty
+sledge, whilst some would-be dog driver, anxious to attain proficiency
+as a whip, would make a start, and be seen tearing round the floe,
+regardless of weak ice and pools of water, at the rate of ten miles an
+hour, returning on board thoroughly drenched, but happy in the knowledge
+that he had succeeded as a dog driver.
+
+Perhaps a few words here in connection with the dogs would not be out of
+place. As I have before stated, they lived almost entirely in the fore
+part of the vessel, and were consequently especial favourites with the
+men, by whom they were fed and greatly petted. Of course they were all
+named, their appellations being more characteristic than euphonious.
+They rejoiced in such names as Ginger, so called on account of his
+colour; Bruin, because he was minus a tail, having been deprived of this
+appendage in his youthful days; Boss-eye, on account of the obliquity of
+his vision, or as our men expressed it, because "his eyes were rove
+cross-jack brace fashion;" Sore-sides, in consequence of the unfortunate
+dog when it came on board suffering from an unhealed wound in its side.
+Sallie, Topsy, Sly-boots, Jessie, etc., were the names of others.
+
+The only English dog in the expedition was my black retriever Nellie, an
+old shipmate and companion, who took no pains to conceal her displeasure
+and disgust at the introduction of such, in her estimation, a rough and
+rowdy pack; nor was she ever afterwards induced to cultivate their
+acquaintance. As she lived in the after part of the ship, she viewed
+with a jealous eye any attempts on the part of the Eskimo dogs to
+intrude on what she regarded as her own domain, and would invariably fly
+at and drive them forward.
+
+Shortly after their appearance on board, and long before they had been
+used for sledging purposes, a species of rabies, or dog madness, broke
+out amongst them, which very quickly and alarmingly thinned their
+number. The first symptom of this disease would generally be the dog
+falling down in a fit, from which it would partially recover only to
+rush about in a frantic manner as if totally deprived of all sense and
+feeling. On some occasions they would rush into the water and be
+drowned, and at other times wander away from the ship to be no more
+seen; sometimes their sufferings would terminate in death, whilst at
+other times they would be shot in order to release the poor things from
+their pain.
+
+All expeditions have experienced the same kind of disease and mortality
+amongst their dogs, for which there has hitherto been no remedy. It is a
+curious fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the Eskimo, and no man
+bitten by one of these dogs during a mad fit has ever suffered permanent
+injury from its effects. Frequently whilst employed sledging, they have
+been attacked by violent fits, resembling cramp, completely prostrating
+them, causing them to roll over on their sides and foam at the mouth. On
+these occasions they would be freed from the sledge, which after a time
+they would follow, when they would be reharnessed and proceed as if
+nothing had occurred.
+
+Dr. Colan devoted much of his time to the investigation of the nature
+and causes of this disease, and I have no doubt his researches will
+throw a flood of light over this matter that will prove of the greatest
+value to succeeding expeditions in the preservation of their dogs, and
+be the means of baffling the attacks of this insidious disease.
+
+The dogs when employed in dragging a sledge are always harnessed in line
+abreast, and never, as generally supposed, ahead of each other in tandem
+fashion.
+
+From six to ten or a dozen dogs form a team. They are capable of
+dragging as much as one hundred and fifty pounds per dog; but this is
+rather an excessive load and should not be exacted for any length of
+time. So strong and enduring are they that they will frequently perform
+a journey, over smooth ice, of twenty-five or thirty miles a day with
+this load; but with light loads and level ice they have been known to
+travel as much as seventy and even a hundred miles in one day.
+
+There is something very exhilarating and exciting about dog sledging, so
+long as the weather is fine, temperature not too low, smooth level ice
+to travel over, and a light sledge to drag. But let all these various
+conditions be reversed, let the weather be thick and foggy, or a gale of
+wind blowing with a blinding snow-drift, a temperature of 50 deg. below
+zero, rough hummocky ice to travel over, and a heavily laden sledge to
+be dragged by a tired and obstinate team, then dog sledging cannot be
+regarded as either a comfortable or desirable amusement.
+
+The sensation of dashing along on a light sledge at the rate of ten
+miles an hour, the fine snow flying into one's face as the dogs tear
+through it pell-mell in their headlong career, or perhaps plunging down
+the side of a steep ravine when the utmost caution is required to
+prevent the sledge from capsizing and toppling over on the top of the
+dogs, is both novel and delightful. But when obstacles such as hummocks
+and deep snow-drifts have to be encountered, especially with a low
+temperature, the reverse is the case. Directly the sledge receives the
+slightest check from either of these causes, the dogs lie down, and look
+at you in the most provoking manner. It is no use having recourse to the
+whip, for not all the flogging in the world will make them advance until
+the obstacle has been removed, or the sledge carried over the
+difficulties that had retarded its progress.
+
+The whip is the main feature in dog driving. To be a good driver it is
+therefore necessary to use this implement in a dexterous manner. The
+lash is a thong of sealskin about eighteen or twenty feet long, attached
+to a short handle of about twelve inches in length. It is, in the hands
+of an experienced driver, a formidable weapon, the punishment that the
+dogs receive from it being often very severe. They are guided solely by
+it, and it is amusing to witness the cunning and intelligence displayed
+by the outside dogs, who invariably get more than their fair share of
+the lash, in dodging under the lines of the others and emerging
+somewhere in the midst of the team in order to escape from its terrible
+infliction. Another very annoying and distressing piece of work
+connected with dog sledging is clearing the lines, which in a short time
+become in a grievously entangled state from the constant dodging about
+of the dogs, and this it must be remembered has to be done with hands
+encased in thick woollen mitts, for to bare them would ensure serious
+frost-bites. In consequence of the amount of provisions that have of
+necessity to be carried for the use of the dogs, it is almost impossible
+to use them for long journeys. None were employed during the expedition
+by any of the extended sledge parties; but for short journeys, or when
+dispatch was required, they were invaluable.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] "Flinching" is a whaling term for cutting up a whale or walrus.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.
+
+
+  "He rose, the coast and country to survey,
+   Anxious and eager to discover more.
+   It looked a wild uncultivated shore,
+   But whether human kind or beast alone
+   Possessed the new-found region was unknown."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+_Thursday, August 12th._--Early this morning, the floes opening
+slightly, an attempt was made to proceed; but it was a futile one, the
+ice remaining perfectly impenetrable. This delay is naturally causing
+anxiety, as our fuel is rapidly disappearing, from the constant demand
+for steam, and the navigable season is also as rapidly waning, young ice
+forming alongside the ship nearly an inch in thickness. Patience,
+combined with caution and perseverance, is an indispensable
+qualification for an Arctic navigator. At the same time he must be
+prepared, when occasion offers, to make a bold dash. Quick determination
+and an ever-ready eye to seize upon any available opportunity are also
+necessary attributes of the explorer who hopes to achieve success in ice
+navigation. Without them failure is inevitable.
+
+In the forenoon both ships were slightly nipped. We succeeded in
+unshipping our rudder in time; but the "Discovery," receiving the
+squeeze more astern, had her rudder very severely injured. She was
+enabled, however, to patch it up sufficiently for temporary use and thus
+avoid the necessity of shifting it. In the afternoon the ice began to
+move to the eastward, enabling us once more to make a start. Hastily
+shipping our rudders we got under weigh, and having bored through a few
+streams of ice emerged into a fine lead of water extending between the
+land and the pack. Passing Cape D'Urville, we opened a large inlet. At
+its head was a deep ravine, containing two large glaciers which, running
+respectively from N.E. and N.W., met and formed one terminal face. At 9
+P.M. the southern extreme of Dobbin Bay, called Cape Hawks, was passed.
+This is a magnificent promontory, which has, with some propriety, been
+compared, in appearance, to the Rock of Gibraltar.
+
+It was a beautifully calm night as both ships silently rounded this bold
+headland, the water so still and unruffled that it was actually used as
+an artificial horizon for the purpose of taking an astronomical
+observation. The Cape itself towered over our heads as we steamed past,
+its reflection in the still quiet water being clearly visible, whilst
+deep ravines on either side stretched away apparently for miles into the
+interior, until lost amid the snow-shining mountains in the far
+distance. A large glacier at the head of the bay showed out prominently
+as it glistened in the light of a bright midnight sun, the bay itself
+being covered with an icy sheet, broken only by a few long low bergs,
+generated, in all probability, from the selfsame glacier. The few clouds
+that were visible in the almost cloudless sky presented an exquisite
+iridescence rarely witnessed, exhibiting clearly defined bright
+colours, extending in bands in a horizontal direction, the reflection
+of which in the clear pellucid water materially enhanced the beauties of
+the landscape. Such a scene, with all its surroundings, could scarcely
+be equalled in beauty, certainly not surpassed, even in sunny Italy.
+
+[Illustration: CAPE HAWKS.]
+
+Making the ships fast to an iceberg, preparations for landing a large
+depot of provisions, similar to the one established at the Cary Islands,
+were immediately commenced. A jolly-boat, obtained from the "Valorous,"
+was also deposited here. We have now two large depots, besides boats,
+established in our rear, sufficient to sustain a large party for many
+days, should any untoward accident befall our ship.
+
+Whilst engaged in these operations, an adjacent island--Washington
+Irving Island--was visited, and a large cairn erected on its summit. Our
+surprise may be imagined when, on reaching the top, the remains of an
+old cairn were discovered. At first its origin was attributed to Hayes,
+who visited the island in 1860, but on closer inspection evidences of a
+construction at a much earlier date were palpable, the stones of which
+it was composed being covered with lichen, denoting great age. Hayes, in
+the published account of his voyage, makes no mention either of having
+seen this cairn or of having built one on the island. It was,
+undoubtedly, the work of white men's hands; the object and necessity for
+building cairns is unknown, and therefore not practised, by the Eskimos.
+How then came this structure in such a remote and desolate part of the
+world? Can it be the work of some obscure navigator of years gone by,
+who erected this monument as a memento of his visit, but who never
+returned to relate the results of his adventurous voyage? This must for
+ever remain a mystery!
+
+Of course it was quickly demolished and its site subjected to a very
+careful search, in the hopes of discovering some record or clue by which
+its history might be ascertained; but nothing was found, and we were
+forced to content ourselves with reconstructing it on a larger scale,
+and depositing a record at its base detailing the movements of the
+expedition.
+
+The depot having been landed, the ships were moved a little farther up
+the bay, although, to effect this, we were compelled to have recourse to
+powder, in order to "blast" a passage through the ice. The recent
+tracks of a bear were observed on the floe, being the only indications
+of the presence of these animals that we had observed since leaving
+Melville Bay. It naturally caused a little excitement amongst our
+sportsmen and would-be bear slayers.
+
+The formation of the land around Dobbin Bay appeared curiously
+contorted; the stratifications dipping, in some places, to the westward
+at an angle of about 18 deg., whilst at others they assumed a perfectly
+horizontal direction. This irregularity of the strata may probably be
+accounted for by the trap, or other primary rock, forcing its way
+upwards through the limestone formation. Where these contortions appear
+the colour changes from the sombre grey of the surrounding limestone to
+a bright red and brownish hue.
+
+In the afternoon, it being deemed expedient for the safety of the ships
+that they should be docked, the requisite instructions were given, and
+in four hours they were securely placed in two large commodious docks,
+cut out of the solid floe.
+
+The process of docking is rendered necessary to prevent a ship from
+being crushed between two floes should she be so unfortunate as to be
+placed between them with the whole force of the pack driving against the
+outer one. This operation is frequently necessary whilst following the
+land-ice, although in these days of steam it is not so frequently
+practised as of old.
+
+Our ice-saw crews had previously been organized, and, as it is
+absolutely necessary that the work of construction should be carried out
+with the utmost expedition, the whole of the officers and ship's company
+were stationed so as to take an active part in the proceedings. The
+instant the order was given for "all hands to cut dock" a most animated
+scene ensued. Triangles were quickly erected, saws placed in position,
+the dock measured and marked out by boarding-pikes placed at the several
+corners, and every one working as if their lives depended upon their own
+individual exertions. Three persons only were left on board the
+ship--namely, one officer in charge of the deck, the engineer at the
+engines, and a man at the helm--and, as it was necessary to keep the
+ship constantly moving so as to avoid pieces of ice, and also to place
+her in a good position for being docked, these three had no sinecure
+offices.
+
+Occasionally a jet of water, followed by a loud report and a shower of
+fragmentary ice, showed that powder was used to shatter the larger
+pieces of ice that had been cut, but unless great care is taken in the
+use of this explosive, it is liable to damage the sides of the dock.
+
+This was our first attempt at dock cutting, which will account for the
+time occupied in its construction. Ordinarily the work should be
+completed in about a couple of hours. When two or more ships are in
+company time is saved by employing all hands to cut one dock large
+enough to take in all the ships.
+
+The diagram on next page will serve to illustrate the system employed by
+us whilst engaged in making one of these docks. The last triangular
+piece of ice that is taken out--namely, the portion marked on the plan
+by the letters C B F--is removed intact, and being placed across the
+entrance serves to close the dock and thus keep out all stray pieces of
+ice.
+
+After four hours of such work as dock cutting entails, it was poor
+comfort for us to return on board wet, cold, and hungry, only to find
+that our fires had been allowed to burn out, and that we could neither
+get a cup of tea to refresh ourselves with, nor a chance of warming
+ourselves at the stove.[1] The Eskimo dogs, being turned out on the floe
+and tied to one of our anchor lines, made night hideous by their dreary
+and lamentable wailing.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF ICE DOCK.
+
+  No. 1 saw cuts from A to B 200 ft.
+  No. 2 " " D to C 200 ft.
+  No. 3 " " B to C 35 ft., and then on to F 115 ft.
+  No. 4 saw cuts from F to D 120 ft., and, if necessary, from E to F 48
+    ft.
+
+  DIMENSIONS OF DOCK.
+
+  Length                200 ft.
+  Breadth, at entrance   65 "
+  Ditto, at head         35 "]
+
+For two days were the ships kept close prisoners; but on Sunday, August
+15th, as soon as divine service was finished, a large party of men was
+actively engaged in cutting and blasting a passage between the floe in
+which we were imprisoned and the shore, for a lead of water had been
+observed in the channel which we were naturally desirous of reaching.
+Although Sunday was as much as possible observed as a day of rest, it
+was quite out of the question to a party situated as we were altogether
+to abstain from work on the Sabbath. Our navigable season, we knew, was
+a short one; no opportunity could we afford to lose; and therefore we
+were compelled to work as much on Sunday as on week-days should
+circumstances arise which would make it necessary for us to do so. After
+about nine hours' hard work we succeeded in making a passage
+sufficiently broad for the ships to pass through. Our last explosion was
+a most effective one; no less than eight blasting charges, or torpedoes,
+were exploded simultaneously--these varied in size from five to twelve
+pound charges.
+
+[Illustration: "THE MOANING OF THE TIED."]
+
+The result of this, designated by the men, "feu de joy" was wonderful;
+the floe split and cracked in all directions, enabling us with our long
+ice points and poles to clear a splendid channel. Hauling the ships out
+of dock, we steamed through the passage and into a fine stream of water
+round Cape Louis Napoleon. So narrow, however, was our channel that in
+rounding the point, to our great dismay, the "Discovery" grounded. A
+delay at this moment might have proved fatal to us, and it was therefore
+with no small amount of satisfaction, after a short detention, that we
+observed her again afloat. Our joy at being again on the move was
+short-lived. A few hours sufficed to bring us to the edge of a field of
+ice, to penetrate which seemed utterly impossible. To cut a dock in such
+ice, the floes being from ten to twenty feet in thickness, was also out
+of the question, even had we been provided with saws sufficiently long
+to do so. Blasting was resorted to, and by this means we were enabled to
+secure the ship in a small indentation in the ice that afforded some
+slight protection. So high was the ice that our boats, hanging from the
+midship davits on the outside of the ship, had to be turned inboard to
+prevent their being crushed. For three days were we kept in a state of
+feverish excitement without being able to make any progress, and yet
+constantly moving the ship to avoid destruction from drifting bergs and
+closing floes.
+
+The shore was frequently visited, and the heights of Mount Joy and Cape
+Hayes ascended; but always the same scene met our view to northward--an
+impassable plain of ice.
+
+Twice in one day were the ships nearly destroyed. A large iceberg that
+was aground close to us, and therefore protecting us from the pack,
+suddenly floated and drifted away. This released a large floe to which
+we were secured, and with which we drifted down rapidly towards another
+large berg that remained aground. It was an anxious time for us, for in
+five minutes, unless we could move out of the way, we must be inevitably
+crushed between the two. All hands were quickly summoned, a line laid
+out astern and made fast to some large hummocks, and by this we
+fortunately succeeded in hauling the ship clear; but only just in time,
+for as our bowsprit cleared the berg, the floe came into contact with it
+with such irresistible force that hummock was piled upon hummock in a
+truly alarming manner. Had we been caught, nothing short of a miracle
+could have saved us.
+
+The noise of the ice as it squeezed against the berg was anything but
+pleasant to listen to; but still it was better than hearing our own
+timbers crashing to pieces in the same manner, and we all experienced a
+strong feeling of relief when the danger was past.
+
+Little rest was enjoyed by any on these days during which we were
+subjected to the wayward will of the pack. Unshipping and replacing the
+rudder, and lifting and lowering the screw, were duties that had to be
+carried out several times during each day, and, although this sort of
+work is rather depressing and irksome, the spirits of the crew never
+flagged. They were always ready, cheerful, and willing. No matter what
+duty they were called upon to perform, it was invariably carried out in
+the same zealous, hearty manner that was so conspicuously manifested
+during the whole period of the absence of the expedition as to elicit
+the unbounded praise and confidence of their leader.
+
+On the 19th of August the ice slackened sufficiently to enable us to
+proceed, and on that evening, to the intense delight of every one, we
+succeeded in rounding Cape Fraser.
+
+During the last three weeks we had advanced exactly ninety miles, or at
+the rate of about four and a quarter miles a day. This cannot be
+considered a rapid rate of travelling, yet to accomplish even this
+necessitated a constant and vigilant look-out.
+
+Cape Fraser is a bold promontory some thousand feet in height,
+terminating in a short projecting point of land about two hundred feet
+above the level of the sea. Above the talus appeared numerous caves in
+the cliffs, a peculiarity noticed for the first time, and the summit was
+studded with irregularities that, to an imaginative mind, might be
+perverted into gigantic beings, animals, or castellated towers. On one
+of these ridges was a heap of stones supposed to represent the "Twelve
+Apostles," and was so marked on the chart; but as we could never
+distinguish more than half the number at one time from any point of
+bearing, it was generally supposed on board that they adhered to true
+man-of-war regulations, and only appeared in their "watch on deck," half
+the number belonging of course to the watch below!
+
+At 10 P.M., being again temporarily stopped, the ships were secured in a
+little harbour called Maury Bay. During our detention in the vicinity of
+Cape Fraser, we were able to confirm the observations made by Dr.
+Bessels of the "Polaris," relative to the meeting of two tides at or
+about this point. This fact materially strengthens the argument in
+favour of the insularity of Greenland, for it has been deduced from a
+series of tidal observations obtained by us that the tide to the
+northward of Cape Fraser--that is, the tide in Kennedy and Robeson
+Channels--is undoubtedly the same as the North Atlantic one, and
+therefore flows along the northern coast of Greenland.
+
+Contrary to what might generally be expected, we did not encounter any
+very great accumulation of broken up ice in consequence of the meeting
+of these two tides: not more than would be caused by the fact of the
+channel decreasing in size to the northward at this point, and therefore
+offering greater obstruction to the ice whilst drifting northward, but
+facilitating its general drift, which is to the southward.
+
+From the summit of Cape John Barrow, which forms one extreme of the
+little bay in which we were secured, we obtained a good view, and one
+which delighted and gladdened our hearts.
+
+Northwards we could see as far as Cape L. von Buch; between us leads of
+water, although covered with much loose ice. To the eastward we could
+plainly distinguish Cape Constitution, with a large sheet of water along
+its base; but to get to it we should have had to penetrate a large
+expanse of pack. This pool of water was in all probability similar to
+one seen by Morton in the same place in 1855, and reported by him as an
+"open Polar sea," on which many imaginative theories have been based!
+
+Our return to the ship was not accomplished without much difficulty, in
+consequence of our little harbour of refuge having filled with drifting
+ice, during the time we were on shore, which beset our boat. We were
+therefore compelled to haul and drag it over and through innumerable
+fragments of ice, reaching the ship wet and fatigued, but delighted with
+the intelligence we possessed and the prospect of pushing on.
+
+_Friday, August 20th._--At one o'clock this morning, being the top of
+high water, we made another start.
+
+Taking advantage of the different broad lanes of water, we steamed
+rapidly past Cape Norton Shaw, and opened out Scoresby Bay--a grand
+harbour that would suit admirably for a ship's winter quarters, provided
+animal life existed. From the appearance of the land we imagined that
+game would be found in large quantities. A perfect cone-shaped hill on
+the north-west side is a very prominent feature of this bay. Indeed, the
+entire coast along which we are passing is composed of long ranges of
+hills more or less coniform, varying from one to two thousand feet in
+height. The coast line is very imperfectly delineated on our charts, the
+distance between the various bays and headlands are erroneous, and the
+positions are wrong; the error always being that they are placed too
+much to the northward.
+
+Off Cape McClintock we had another narrow escape from being severely
+nipped, in consequence of attempting to pass through a channel between
+two closing floes. Although jammed for a short time, the pressure was
+not very great, and, the nip easing, the ship was released. Passing Cape
+Collinson we were again obliged to make fast to a large floe, as all the
+leads to the northward had closed up, thereby preventing farther
+progress.
+
+The ice was moving rapidly to the southward--the whole pack drifting
+bodily--at the rate of from one and a half to two knots an hour. The
+floe to which we were secured was kept stationary by a couple of
+grounded icebergs that effectually resisted all its efforts to extricate
+itself. This rapid drift seemed to indicate the presence of a "North
+Water," or at any rate a very loose pack.
+
+Advantage was taken of our temporary delay to establish a small depot of
+provisions, consisting of two hundred and forty rations, near Cape
+Collinson, for the use of a travelling party which, according to
+existing arrangements, would be dispatched to the southward by the
+"Discovery" during the following year, for the purpose of visiting Cape
+Isabella, and bringing up any letters that might have been deposited
+there for us.
+
+_Saturday, August 21st._--Lanes of water appearing continuous to the
+northward, we got under weigh at half-past two this morning; but after
+two or three hours' boring and working under steam and sail we were
+forced to relinquish the attempt, being unable to penetrate the pack in
+the direction we wished to proceed. We therefore returned to our former
+anchorage, under the lea of a friendly berg, the ice continuing to drift
+south with marvellous rapidity.
+
+Whilst detained here we were assailed by some furious squalls from the
+S.E., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. During one of these the
+"Discovery" was blown away from her anchors, and it was with no little
+difficulty that she was again secured to the floe in safety. Thinking we
+should be able to reach some open water to the northward by the removal
+of the large floe to which we were fast, both ships' companies were
+employed in sawing off a large piece of it, which, impinging on one of
+the stranded icebergs, would, it was thought, release the floe if
+detached. The distance to cut through was one thousand feet.
+Notwithstanding the magnitude of the undertaking, every one set to work
+with a will and resolution that betokened confidence in being able to
+succeed in anything that was required of them.
+
+Before the work was fairly commenced the ice appeared to slack to the
+eastward, and the captain, abandoning his former intention, determined
+to seek a passage through the pack instead of hugging the coast.
+
+Getting under weigh at 9.30 P.M., we bored through a large extent of
+slack ice, into a fine piece of open water, which, when reached, we
+found possessed no outlet. It was a perfect salt-water lake surrounded
+by ice. In this we were obliged to dodge about under sail, waiting
+patiently for the ice to open and thus allow us a free passage.
+
+As we proceed northwards the ice appears to be heavier and more
+formidable, and animal life seems to be getting more scarce. Few birds
+are seen. Occasionally the head of an inquisitive seal is protruded out
+of the water, but immediately withdrawn (if not killed) on being saluted
+by half a dozen bullets from the rifles of our keen and enthusiastic
+sportsmen, who are for ever on the watch to display their prowess in
+their endeavours to procure food for our dogs, by shooting these
+animals, who thus pay for their curiosity with their lives.
+
+We appeared to be leaving the region of icebergs, for, although those
+met with lately were of great size, they were few in number. The one
+affording us protection this forenoon was no less than six hundred feet
+in length.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] An amusing story is related of one of the officers. Whilst
+    engaged in cutting the dock, he, without thinking, put his pipe in
+    his trousers pocket, so as to enable him the more readily to work at
+    his ice-saw. Feeling, after a time, a little warm about his legs, he
+    attributed it to his exertions in working the saw, until a sharp and
+    intolerable pain caused him to put his hand into his pocket. This
+    speedily afforded an explanation: his pipe, being still alight, had
+    burnt a hole through his trousers and shirt and was burning his leg!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+KENNEDY CHANNEL.
+
+
+  _2nd Keeper._--"I'll stay above the hill so both may shoot."
+
+  _1st Keeper._--"That cannot be: the noise of thy cross-bow will scare
+  the herd, and so my shoot is lost. Here stand we both, and aim we at
+  the best."--_Henry VI._
+
+  "Within a long recess there lies a bay,
+   An island shades it from the rolling sea,
+   And forms a port secure for ships to ride,
+   Broke by the jutting land on either side."
+
+     VIRGIL.
+
+_Sunday, August 22nd._--The rapidity of the changes that take place in
+these icy seas is almost inconceivable. In a few hours from being
+helplessly imprisoned by a dense pack of ice, we were actually plying,
+under steam and sail, in a vast expanse of water containing only a few
+loose streams of ice, through which we had no difficulty in penetrating.
+Our predictions were indeed realized, and to a greater extent than we
+had even anticipated. We had reached a "North Water," in which we were
+sensible of a very perceptible motion on board the ship. It is true that
+the pack, apparently as solid and as impenetrable as ever, extended
+along the west side of Kennedy Channel; but to the northward and along
+the east side was a clear and open sea, free of ice, with its surface
+agitated by the fresh northerly wind that was blowing, and rising and
+falling with true oceanic undulations.
+
+Unfortunately for us, at least so far as making headway was concerned,
+the wind was not only very strong but directly ahead, compelling us to
+beat to windward under steam and fore and aft sails. We consoled
+ourselves, however, with the hope that the same wind would blow all the
+ice to the southward, and thus enable us to make good progress. The
+temperature being some six or seven degrees below freezing point caused
+us to feel the sharp wind in a very unpleasant manner, and made both the
+crow's-nest and bridge very disagreeable places of resort. The pleasure
+of feeling that we were really doing good work was, however, sufficient
+compensation for the discomfort that was felt.
+
+Stretching over to the eastern side of the channel we passed close to
+Crozier Island, having Cape Constitution full in view. Its appearance
+coincides exactly with the description given by Morton.
+
+This cape is the northern extreme of a bay called, by Kane, Lafayette
+Bay. It is steep and precipitous, and has no ice-foot adhering. Indeed,
+the base of the headland, as well as the adjacent one, Cape
+Independence, has the appearance of having been partially undermined by
+the action of the sea, thus forming an overhanging terrace, up which it
+would be impossible to ascend. Morton found its ascent totally
+impracticable, on account of the steep and rugged nature of the cliff.
+We were unable to detect any signs of a _mer de glace_ over this land,
+although a light tinge along the summit to the southward of Lafayette
+Bay would lead one to suppose that it existed. This, however, was the
+only indication of an ice-cap that was perceived, and it was one on
+which little or no reliance was placed.
+
+The positions of the various points along this coast are very fairly
+correct, being as nearly as possible in the latitudes ascribed to them
+by Dr. Bessels of the "Polaris," affording a striking contrast to the
+places on the opposite side of the channel, where the positions are so
+egregiously inaccurate. The deep inlet on the American chart called Carl
+Ritter Bay was not to be seen. The only indentation in the land in its
+assigned position was Richardson Bay, which we must naturally conclude
+was the one seen and named Carl Ritter by Dr. Hayes.
+
+It was a curious fact that, whereas the land on the west side of the
+channel was completely covered with snow, the land on the east side was
+entirely free. This was not the only peculiar feature in which the two
+sides of the channel differed. Although apparently of the same
+geological formation, there was a great dissimilarity between the
+physical appearance of the land on either side. That on the east was
+flat and table-topped, rising to the height of about one thousand feet,
+separated into hills by broad valleys, whilst the stratification of the
+cliffs was regular and horizontal. That on the west side was, on the
+contrary, composed of conical-shaped hills, rising to an altitude of
+from two to four thousand feet, and intersected by deep ravines, whilst
+the stratifications were so distorted that the dip varied as much as
+from 10 deg. to 45 deg..
+
+Whilst the land on the east side appeared to have undergone a regular
+and steady upheaval, that on the west seemed to have been raised
+suddenly, the deep ravines between the numerous hills resembling the
+beds of ancient and extinct glaciers.
+
+_Monday, August 23rd._--A glorious run has been made during the last
+twenty-four hours, assisted, for a short time, as we have been, by a
+strong southerly wind; but alas! by 10 A.M. we arrived at the end of our
+tether!
+
+Passing the entrance to Bessels Bay, we reached Cape Morton, from whence
+extended right across Hall Basin our implacable enemy, the ice--solid
+floes of immense area stretching to the northward as far as the eye
+could reach, with no opening, no outlet of any description, and no
+indications of water.
+
+Polaris Bay was ahead of us, and we could plainly discern the position
+of the Americans' winter quarters; but with no hopes, for the present,
+of our reaching so far. We must again, as we have so often had to do
+before, exercise our patience, and wait for a more favourable
+opportunity for pushing on. The strong southerly wind now blowing will,
+in all probability, be succeeded by a calm or a breeze from the
+northward, either of which will have the effect of opening the ice. The
+"Discovery" having landed a small depot of two hundred and forty rations
+at Cape Morton, for the use of travelling parties that will hereafter be
+dispatched for the purpose of exploring Petermann Fiord, both ships made
+sail and beat back to Bessels Bay, where we dropped anchor in seven
+fathoms, just inside, and under the protection of Hannah Island.
+
+Bessels Bay is a long and narrow indentation in the land, extending in a
+N.W. and S.E. direction, having numerous small glaciers on either side,
+the majority of them discharging ones. The bay is in consequence nearly
+choked with small bergs.
+
+This bay or fiord gives one the idea of having been originally the bed
+of some large glacier, now extinct, whilst Hannah Island, which lies
+directly across its mouth, has every appearance of having been its
+terminal moraine, not only from its position, but also from its
+composition, for it consists of an immense heap of pebbles and drift,
+possessing apparently no determined basis, no underlying rock.
+
+We were also able to observe here the undoubted _mer de glace_ under
+which Greenland is supposed to be buried, and whose outpourings in this
+locality find their escape in Petermann Fiord and Bessels Bay.
+
+A few eider-ducks, a seal, and some dovekies, with an ivory gull, were
+seen to-day.
+
+Captain Feilden and Mr. Parr landed on the northern side of the bay,
+and, ascending a high hill, obtained a good and unobstructed view to the
+northward. Their report was very desponding--ice, nothing but ice, as
+far as they could see.
+
+From what we can now observe, the land on the western side of Hall Basin
+appears to end abruptly somewhere about Cape Union, and does not
+continue to the northward, as represented in the last American Chart. I
+put no belief in the land reported to have been seen by some of the men
+of the "Polaris," and named President Land. Should the land terminate,
+as I anticipate, in about lat. 83 deg. N. our chance of reaching a high
+latitude will of course be much reduced, although we shall have a grand
+field of exploration to the eastward and westward.
+
+In the evening the captain and myself visited Hannah Island, and erected
+a cairn, in which a record detailing our movements was deposited, on its
+summit, in the most conspicuous place about the centre of the island.
+Here we had an uninterrupted view to the northward; but what we saw
+only confirmed the report brought on board in the earlier part of the
+day. The western side of the channel appeared free of ice as far as Cape
+Lieber, and a lane of water was visible extending from us as far as this
+cape. By this stream of water appears our only chance of getting on.
+
+_Tuesday, August 24th._--The captain left the ship early this morning to
+ascend the hill immediately above Cape Morton (two thousand feet in
+height), in order to ascertain from the nature of the ice what our
+prospects of pushing on were likely to be. During his absence a haul
+with the dredge was obtained, but with unimportant results: the
+continual movement of icebergs in the bay, all more or less aground,
+would hardly admit of much organic life at the bottom. Fossils abounded
+in the limestone on shore, and a large collection of specimens was made.
+
+At noon the captain was observed, in his boat, off Cape Morton, with the
+signal flying for the ships "to weigh."
+
+His orders were speedily executed; and, having picked him up, we were
+soon running quickly across to the western side. He gave us the very
+pleasing information that from the summit of Cape Morton he had observed
+a magnificent lead of water along the west coast, and extending in all
+probability as far as Cape Beechey. This was indeed delightful
+intelligence, and served to raise the social barometer many degrees.
+
+Our coal was rapidly diminishing, and we knew that many more days of
+steaming such as those we had lately had would reduce our fuel to such
+an extent that we could hope to do little more; for without steam a
+vessel in these latitudes would indeed be helpless.
+
+11 P.M.--Oh, the hopes and disappointments that we poor Arctic explorers
+have to endure! First of all a confiding anticipation in the future
+makes us joyous and expectant, and then we are plunged into the lowest
+depths of despondency.
+
+Two hours ago we were steaming through a grand expanse of water, looking
+forward with confidence to reaching, in a few hours, Cape Beechey, or
+perhaps even Cape Union, both being distinctly visible ahead, whilst
+Capes Brevoort, Sumner, and Stanton were in sight on our starboard bow.
+
+Passing Cape Baird, however, we were again met by our insatiable enemy,
+the ice, which defied all our efforts to penetrate it.
+
+We are now slowly picking our way across Lady Franklin Strait towards
+Cape Bellot, in the hope of being able to reach some place of security
+where we can remain patiently until a northerly wind shall have cleared
+a passage for us. Whilst crossing Kennedy Channel we obtained a
+magnificent view up Petermann Fiord. It is an extensive opening, with no
+land visible at its head. This is a geographical problem which we hope
+we shall soon be able to solve. It is difficult to determine at present
+whether Lady Franklin Strait is really a strait or a deep inlet. We are
+inclined to the latter belief. This is another question we hope will
+soon be satisfactorily settled.
+
+_Wednesday, August 25th._--At one o'clock this morning, whilst threading
+our way amongst the ice-floes that bordered the coast, a herd of musk
+oxen was observed browsing quietly on an adjacent hill. Such an
+opportunity for obtaining fresh meat was not to be disregarded. A
+shooting party was quickly organized, and, whilst the boats were being
+prepared and the hunters getting ready their rifles, the ships were
+taken into a beautifully snug and land-locked harbour, protected at its
+mouth by a large island, situated on the northern coast of Lady Franklin
+Bay.
+
+Here the anchors were let go, and the sportsmen despatched in quest of
+the game.
+
+Separating into three distinct parties on landing, we advanced
+cautiously towards the spot where they were last seen grazing, hoping to
+be able to surround and capture the entire herd. Not only did we all
+enter keenly into the sport, but our mouths watered at the prospect of
+again indulging in fresh meat. We pictured to ourselves smoking-hot
+beefsteaks and savoury calf's liver, dainties that we had for some time
+been strangers to, being prepared for us after our return to the ship,
+never even dreaming of a chance of returning empty-handed.
+
+The disposition of our force was well calculated, for the musk oxen
+being alarmed, in all probability by the blowing off of steam from one
+of the ships, started in full flight in the direction of a deep ravine.
+Here they were met by a couple of the hunters, who discharging their
+rifles dropped two of the herd. The remainder turned and dashed up the
+side of a steep hill, but only to be met by two more sportsmen, who made
+such good use of their time and weapons, that they succeeded in shooting
+the remainder, seven in number.
+
+One of the first brought down was the bull of the herd, a noble fellow;
+but so tenacious of life that several shots had to be expended, at a
+very short range, before he bit the dust.
+
+Elated with our success, and having sent back to the ship for assistance
+in conveying the meat on board, we commenced skinning, cleaning, and
+cutting up the animals, so as to guard against the possibility of any
+delay in doing so being the means of tainting the flesh with the
+disagreeable musky odour. This, in consequence of the scarcity of knives
+amongst the party, was a long and tedious process; however, by nine
+o'clock we had the satisfaction of seeing our "morning's bag" safely on
+board, amounting altogether to 2,124 lbs. of good fresh meat. Not a bad
+morning's work!
+
+[Illustration: MUSK OXEN.]
+
+These animals, from peculiarities they possess, are placed in a genus
+between the sheep and the ox, and are called _ovibos moschatus_. They
+are only met with in high latitudes, although traces of them, it is
+reported, have been seen as far south as 59 deg. N. lat., but they are
+rarely seen in any numbers lower than 67 deg. N. lat.
+
+They have been seen, and shot, in large numbers, by the various search
+expeditions wintering at and about Melville Island, and they were also
+obtained on the opposite side of Kennedy Channel by the "Polaris" in
+1872. The crew of this latter vessel succeeded in shooting twenty-six
+during the twelve months they passed in this latitude. They are
+gregarious, usually wandering in small herds, although occasionally
+single specimens are found. The herd just obtained by us consisted of
+one old bull and four old cows, and two young bulls and two young cows.
+They subsist on the scant vegetation of these regions--principally
+grasses and lichens--which they scrape up from under the snow, when the
+ground is covered. They hardly give one the impression of being very
+quick and agile, yet they ascend hills and climb over rocks and rough
+surfaces with great ease. They are reputed to be very irascible, and
+have frequently been known, when wounded, to attack a hunter and
+seriously endanger his life. The horns are very broad, covering the brow
+and crown of the head, and meeting at their base. Our bullets appeared
+to have no effect when fired at the head. From the bull we obtained no
+less than 385 lbs. of meat!
+
+Finding that the harbour in which the ships were anchored possessed all
+the necessary qualifications for rendering the winter quarters of a
+vessel in the Arctic Regions comfortable and secure, Captain Nares
+selected this spot as the place in which he would leave the "Discovery."
+It appeared in every way adapted for this purpose. A secure harbour,
+possessing two narrow entrances, with the water so shallow as to
+effectually prevent the larger and heavier pieces of ice from drifting
+into it, with a neighbourhood covered with a more luxuriant and richer
+vegetation than had hitherto been seen, and giving evidences of being
+well stocked with game--for, in addition to the musk oxen, numerous and
+recent traces of wolves, foxes, hares, and lemmings had been
+observed--the place seemed especially suited for passing the winter in;
+and its selection as the winter quarters of our consort was never
+regretted.
+
+We all feel that the navigable season is rapidly drawing to a close, and
+that very few more days are left us. During the last week the
+temperature has never been above the freezing point; and the young ice
+has been forming to an alarming extent, even at midday. An advance, if
+farther advance is to be made, will be better and more speedily
+accomplished with one ship only, than by having two to look after. The
+responsibility is lessened, whilst the knowledge that there is another
+ship to fall back upon, in case of accidents, removes all anxiety.
+
+When the decision that the two ships were to part company was
+promulgated, it was received with satisfaction, although we were all
+sorry to lose the companionship of our numerous friends. The evening was
+spent in an interchange of visits, and many a sincere and fervent "God
+speed," with a silent but expressive squeeze of the hand, was exchanged
+between the officers and the men of the two Arctic ships.
+
+In order to strengthen our force on board the "Alert," and to have an
+extra sledge party for the purpose, if required, of communicating with
+our consort, an officer, Lieutenant Rawson, and seven men were received
+from the "Discovery;" the only thing that we were able to give in
+exchange being 900 lbs. of the musk oxen just procured--a by no means
+despicable offering!
+
+Everything having been satisfactorily arranged, the "Alert" steamed away
+from Discovery Harbour on the morning of the 26th, exchanging hearty
+cheers with her consort as she passed; she hoisting the signal "May
+Providence prosper your efforts," to which we replied "Happy Winter;"
+and thus we separated, happy in the knowledge that a safe refuge was
+established in our rear, with the unknown before us, fervently praying
+for a successful issue to our undertaking.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD.
+
+
+  "And now there came both mist and snow,
+   And it grew wondrous cold.
+   And ice, mast high, came floating by,
+   As green as emerald.
+   And through the drifts, the snowy cliffs
+   Did send a dismal sheen;
+   Nor shapes of men, nor beasts we ken,
+   The ice was all between.
+
+        *     *     *     *     *
+
+   With sloping masts and dripping prow,
+   As who pursued with yell and blow,
+   Still treads the shadow of his foe,
+   And forwards bends his head,
+   The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast,
+   And _Northwards_ aye we fled."
+
+     COLERIDGE.
+
+Now that we are pursuing our solitary journey northwards, we can the
+more fully realize that our real work has commenced--the real work
+towards the achievement of that success which we all so ardently hope
+will crown our efforts.
+
+Now that we are alone we shall be the more ready to avail ourselves of
+every opening in the ice that may present itself, every little chance
+that may occur, which we should be unable to do, if hampered with a
+second ship.
+
+We had hardly advanced three miles, in fact were still just inside the
+entrance to the harbour, when the ice, closing in round the point,
+barred all egress. In endeavouring to steer clear of these fragments,
+the ship grounded on a projecting spit off a small island, but sustained
+no injury, floating again immediately she was lightened. As farther
+advance was out of the question, for the present, in consequence of the
+pack having drifted in, the vessel was secured under the lee of a
+natural breakwater at the entrance to Discovery Harbour, ready to take
+advantage of the first opportunity of making a start that should offer.
+
+Accompanied by Feilden and Rawson, I made an expedition to Distant Cape,
+whence we obtained a good view of Robeson Channel; but it was anything
+but an inspiriting one. There appeared to be a perfect block of heavy
+ice right across to the Greenland coast, although a few thin blue lines,
+denoting streams of water, could be discerned radiating in the pack to
+the eastward, but apparently leading to nothing.
+
+Some terns, _Sterna Arctica_, were obtained on a small island, as also
+their young and eggs. The nests were simply little round holes, some in
+the snow, having a few small pebbles as a bed. Some knots, _Tringa
+Canutius_, were also obtained; but no amount of search was successful in
+discovering either the egg or the nest of this bird.
+
+A fine sheet of water, situated on the breakwater, being frozen over,
+afforded our skaters an opportunity of indulging in their favourite
+pastime, and of practising both the inside and outside edges to their
+hearts' content.
+
+The following day was also one of enforced idleness, and no movement
+could be made with the ship.
+
+[Illustration: KNOTS.]
+
+Snow fell heavily, much to our annoyance, as it prevented us from
+keeping a perfect watch on the ice in the channel, in consequence of its
+density. The ice was being set up Lady Franklin Bay at a great pace.
+Once during the day it appeared inclined to open and give us a chance of
+proceeding. The skaters and sportsmen were hurriedly called on board;
+but before steam could be raised the opportunity was lost. In navigating
+these waters it is necessary to be constantly on the alert, and
+prepared, at any moment, to take advantage of any chance that may occur;
+but with the small quantity of fuel we have remaining, it is also
+necessary to economize and husband that essential aid to advance as much
+as possible; our fires were therefore always kept low, except when the
+engines were actually working.
+
+A small fragment of driftwood was picked up on the island. It resembled
+some hard wood, but was so wasted and worn by attrition that it was
+impossible, without subjecting it to microscopic examination, to
+determine to what species it belonged.
+
+The large island off which we were secured, and which forms the main
+protection to Discovery Harbour, was named Bellot Island, after the
+distinguished young French naval officer who lost his life whilst
+zealously prosecuting the search for Sir John Franklin and his ill-fated
+companions.
+
+_Saturday, August 28th._--A thick fog in the morning effectually
+frustrated all our hopes of advancing; but clearing up towards midday,
+we were rejoiced at seeing several leads through the ice in the
+direction of Cape Beechey.
+
+Steam was quickly raised; but, in attempting to cant, the ship took the
+ground, and much to our chagrin and disappointment remained immovable.
+This was indeed tantalizing, as we knew by sad experience how capricious
+were the motions of the ice, and that every moment was of the utmost
+value to us.
+
+Lightening the ship as much as possible, the rising tide floated her in
+about a couple of hours, and at 5 P.M., having hoisted up all our boats,
+we were again able to proceed.
+
+As we rounded the point we hoisted the colours and dipped them three
+times as a parting farewell to our consort, who had just time to whip up
+the signal "Good luck" before we were finally shut out from each other's
+view.
+
+Rounding Distant Cape, we found the channel full of ice, some of the
+floes being very massive and of great extent; but between them existed
+narrow lanes of water, in some places choked by loose slack ice, through
+which we had little difficulty in penetrating, although at the expense
+of our rudder, which was so severely injured by the heavy nature of the
+ice as to be rendered almost useless.
+
+At midnight, when within about a mile of Cape Beechey, ice was
+encountered stretching right across the channel and pressing so tightly
+in to the land as to form a dead block to our farther advance. We had
+then by estimation reached the 82 deg. parallel of latitude. This check was
+a great damper to our hopes, especially as no bays, or protection of any
+description for the ship from the pack, could be found in our immediate
+vicinity.
+
+Our only resource was to return a few miles to the southward and there,
+in a slight indentation of the land, affording little or no protection,
+secure the ship to an ice floe, and employ ourselves at once with the
+rather heavy operations connected with shifting the rudder. This work
+was performed in about three hours. In the mean time, a small herd of
+musk oxen having been observed on shore, our sportsmen were despatched
+in pursuit, and we soon had the satisfaction of hearing that they had
+succeeded in shooting three, the remainder of the herd having escaped
+over the hills. This was a very welcome addition to our stock of fresh
+meat. Our mizzen-rigging was now literally groaning with the amount of
+meat suspended there; for, in addition to the recent accumulation of
+musk-ox flesh, the remainder of our sheep, some seven or eight in
+number, had been slaughtered and added to the general stock. So hard
+were the portions frozen, that they were very truthfully compared to
+the legs of mutton and sides of sheep made of wood usually seen hanging
+in the front of a butcher's shop in a pantomime!
+
+The bay in which we had taken refuge was, in consequence of the work
+there performed, named "Shift-Rudder Bay."
+
+_Sunday, August 29th._--At noon we were again under weigh, Captain Nares
+having ascended a high hill during the forenoon, from which he had
+observed an opening in the pack by which we might proceed. Cape Beechey
+was easily rounded; but, in consequence of the floes closing into the
+land, we had a very narrow escape of being caught whilst going round
+Cape Frederick VII., and it was only by pressing the ship at her utmost
+speed that we succeeded in rounding it in safety. Two minutes after we
+were round, the floe came into contact with the high steep side of the
+cape, crumbling against it and piling up hummock on hummock from the
+irresistible force of the outside pressure. What would have been the
+fate of our poor little frail ship had she been caught between these two
+stupendous works of nature?
+
+The ice had now assumed a totally different character from any that we
+had hitherto seen, being infinitely more massive and heavy. The
+thickness was estimated at from eighty to one hundred feet, whilst the
+hummocks formed along the shore and round the edges of the floes were
+fully twenty-five and thirty feet in height.
+
+These large hummocks received from us the name of "floe-bergs," the term
+being intended to convey the idea of masses of ice more bulky than
+ordinary hummocks, and formed in a different way. Some of these huge
+fragments that fringed the coast line were fully sixty feet in height,
+yet they were _aground_ in some ten and twelve fathoms of water! This
+will give some idea of the massive nature of the ice with which we were
+contending. The region of icebergs, the creation of land glaciers, had
+been passed, and in their place were substituted these floe-bergs, the
+production of a floating glacier.
+
+To contend with this massive ice required the greatest care and
+judgment, for little respect is shown to the unfortunate vessel that is
+exposed to the fatal embrace of what has been aptly termed by our old
+Arctic navigators "ye unmercifull yce." Before midnight the ship was
+secured to a large floe in Lincoln Bay, the pack having again closed in
+to the land, thereby obstructing our advance.
+
+The positions of the different bays and headlands on the western side of
+Robeson Channel we found strangely at variance with the positions
+assigned to them on the latest American chart; indeed, the shore, as
+delineated, was quite unrecognizable. The land on the opposite side of
+the channel seemed, on the contrary, to be very accurately laid down.
+
+With the exception of a little lemming (_Myodes torquatus_), captured by
+Captain Nares when he landed in the morning, a solitary dovekie (_Uria
+grylle_), fluttering about in the ice-encumbered waters, was the only
+living thing seen during the day. The first-named little animal was the
+first of its species caught alive, and excited considerable interest,
+every one being desirous of obtaining a peep at the diminutive little
+quadruped. One man, more fortunate than his messmates, was literally
+besieged, by those less lucky than himself in seeing the animal, with
+numerous questions regarding its appearance. When asked its colour the
+man hesitated, finding it difficult to describe; but suddenly
+brightening up he said, "Why, _lemon_ colour, of course!" an answer that
+appeared quite satisfactory, agreeing, as it did, so well with its name!
+
+These little mouse-like creatures are the smallest, yet the most
+numerous and common, of all quadrupeds in the Arctic regions. They are
+extremely pugnacious and fearless, and often attract attention, when
+they would otherwise be unobserved, by their shrill cries of rage at an
+approaching step. They hibernate in burrows under the snow, and live
+during the summer on the scant vegetation of these regions. When roasted
+and served up on toast, like sparrows, they were found to be excellent
+eating, although provokingly small.
+
+On the same hill where the capture of this little animal was effected,
+our naturalist picked up a marine shell (_Astarte borealis_), about a
+mile from the beach, and at least a hundred and fifty feet above the
+level of the sea. This shell was in excellent preservation, the
+epidermis still adhering, and in a perfect state.
+
+The apparent freshness of this specimen gave rise to many conjectures
+regarding the theory of the upheaval of the land, the evidence pointing
+conclusively to its being both recent and rapid. These regions offer a
+wide field for the geologist and student of natural history.
+
+_Monday, August 30th._--During the forenoon, there being no prospect of
+pushing forward, a large depot of provisions, consisting of one thousand
+rations, was landed. This depot was established for the use of
+travelling parties from the "Discovery," or from our own ship should it
+be determined to despatch any to the southward. It was not without some
+difficulty that the heavy casks were transported from the boats to a
+suitable position sufficiently removed from the encroachments of the
+pack. Their transit was only effected by a nautical process known as
+"parbuckling," by which casks and barrels are either hauled up or
+lowered down steep inclines.
+
+On the brow of the hill immediately above the depot a large cairn was
+erected, in which the usual records were deposited; the provisions
+themselves being so placed as to form a very conspicuous landmark to any
+ship passing to the northward, or to any sledge party travelling along
+the coast line. Whilst engaged in these operations, the pack was
+observed to slacken considerably, several leads of water opening to the
+northward, which we fondly hoped would afford us an easy passage towards
+the attainment of that object which was ever uppermost in our thoughts,
+and for which we were ready and willing to make any sacrifice--the
+object of exploring the unknown region, and of reaching a high northern
+latitude.
+
+Steam was accordingly quickly raised, and another attempt made to
+proceed; but alas! having incautiously been tempted by promising lanes
+of water to stray farther from the land than had hitherto been our
+custom, we were soon hopelessly beset by very heavy ice, of at least
+eighty or one hundred feet in thickness, and fully ten feet above the
+surface of the water. So high was it that our boats, suspended at the
+davits, were seriously endangered, and had in consequence to be "turned
+in" to avoid being crushed altogether. We were, fortunately, surrounded
+by loose pieces of broken-off ice, which acting as cushions between the
+ship and the more massive floes, thereby saved the "Alert" from an
+unpleasant nip. As there was no saying when we might be deprived of the
+friendly aid of these "buffers," by any sudden movement of the pack,
+steam was kept ready in both boilers in order that we might take
+immediate advantage of any such motion for the purpose of extricating
+our vessel from her very unpleasant and perilous position.
+
+An anxious night was spent by all on board, and many ineffectual
+attempts were made to push our way through cracks in the pack that
+appeared to be inclined to open. Sleep was out of the question--indeed,
+was hardly thought of--every one being prepared, with his little bag of
+necessaries, to abandon the ship when such an order, which seemed
+inevitable, should be given.
+
+On the following day, by dint of much labour, a space was cleared round
+the stern of the vessel, which enabled us to ship our rudder, and, the
+ice having slackened a little, by constantly steaming ahead and astern
+we succeeded in clearing a larger space in which the ship could be
+worked, when, boldly attacking the pack, we forced our way through, and
+with relieved minds and thankful hearts extricated ourselves from our
+dangerous position, and once more secured the ship in Lincoln Bay. The
+time occupied in steaming through the pack, a distance of about a mile,
+was exactly five hours!
+
+The ice was observed to be still tightly packed against Cape Union, and
+consequently hindered us from pushing on.
+
+We had much reason to be grateful for our safe deliverance from the
+pack, for, shortly after our extrication, a heavy gale sprang up from
+the S.W., the effect of which on the ship, beset in such ponderous ice,
+must have been disastrous in the extreme, and would in all probability
+have been fatal. Ice navigators, however, are not, as a rule, prone to
+indulge in ideas as to "what _might_ have occurred had this or that
+happened:" their thoughts and minds must be directed entirely to the
+present and the future, only too happy and thankful, as the days go by,
+to find they still have their own good vessel to sustain them, and carry
+them through another day. To our engines we owed a deep debt of
+gratitude, for without the powerful aid of steam we should have been
+unable, before the gale burst upon us, to have effected our deliverance.
+
+Towards midnight the gale freshened considerably, snow fell, and the
+weather altogether had a very ugly and threatening appearance. We,
+however, consoled ourselves with the hope that it would clear the ice
+out of the channel, and thus enable us to proceed. The noise of the pack
+grinding and squeezing as it was tossed about by a short turbulent sea
+was anything but pleasing to listen to, resembling in a measure the
+sound created by the dashing of the surf over a rock-bound coast. One
+can easily imagine the feelings of those old navigators, in their frail
+little barks, which gave rise to the expression that "the irksome noyse
+of the yce bred strange conceits among us." Very "irksome" indeed was
+that noise to us, and many were the "strange conceits" that we indulged
+in as we listened to the soughing of the wind and the crashing of the
+ice!
+
+_Wednesday, September 1st_, must always be regarded, at least by all
+those connected with, or interested in, Arctic research, as a red-letter
+day in the annals of naval enterprise, and indeed in English history,
+for on this day a British man-of-war reached a higher northern latitude
+than had ever yet been reached by any ship, and we had the extreme
+gratification of hoisting the colours at noon to celebrate the event.
+
+Never was an ensign hoisted by such a number of eager and willing hands.
+All were desirous of participating in this act, and of sharing the
+honours of this important proceeding.
+
+Our success in thus attaining a high position was due entirely to the
+S.W. gale, which blew with such fury, that by nine o'clock in the
+forenoon the pack was driven so far off the land that a narrow channel
+of water was left extending to the northward along the coast line. We
+were not long in availing ourselves of this grand opportunity. The ice
+anchors were quickly hauled on board, sail was made, and, with the steam
+ready in case it should be required, we were soon bowling along at the
+rate of ten knots an hour, "and _northwards_ aye we fled." So far had
+the pack been blown off the shore, that the channel of water was fully
+three miles in breadth.
+
+It would be impossible to describe the feelings of those on board the
+"Alert" at this unexpected piece of good fortune; for the lateness of
+the season, combined with the unprecedented solidity of the ice, had in
+a measure damped our ardour and forced us to realize the apparent
+hopelessness of attaining, this year, a high northern latitude. Eagerly
+and anxiously were the different reports from the crow's-nest listened
+to, and still to the delight of all came down the cheery words, "Water,
+plenty of water ahead, and no ice in sight."
+
+Every one was joyous and elated as, at noon, they assembled round the
+ward-room table to inaugurate, in a glass of Madeira, generously
+supplied by our wine caterer, the auspicious event, and to wish success
+to their flag.
+
+Unfortunately snow was falling heavily, and the weather was so thick
+that little could be seen. We could just make out that the land along
+which we were steering, and which trended to the N.E., was composed of
+high cliffs with numerous ravines and valleys running down to the
+water's edge; but, to our disappointment, we failed to observe either
+harbour or bay, or any place that would afford a refuge or protection of
+any description for the ship. Arctic navigation, like everything else,
+has its dark as well as its bright side!
+
+After rounding Cape Union the coast trended away to the westward of
+north, and the wind, which had hitherto been blowing so fresh, suddenly
+subsided. So did our joyful anticipations, for one short hour after our
+ensign had fluttered out so gaily before the breeze, we were stopped by
+a barrier of ice of great thickness, through which there was no prospect
+of penetrating. The land also appeared to lose the bold rugged character
+that had been such a prominent feature between Lincoln Bay and Cape
+Union, and now assumed an undulating form as it trended away to the
+N.W., the coast being low and entirely covered with snow.
+
+Having set our minds at rest that a farther advance, for the present,
+was perfectly impracticable, we reluctantly retraced our steps to the
+southward for about a mile, and secured the ship inside a fringe of
+grounded floe-bergs that lined the coast and which promised to afford us
+protection, in fact, the only protection, from the irresistible pressure
+of the pack. A depot of provisions, consisting of two thousand rations,
+was immediately landed, in order to guard against all accidents that
+might happen to the ship, and also to be of use to our southern
+travelling parties, should we succeed in reaching a higher latitude in
+the ship. The weather still continued thick; but during a clear interval
+we succeeded in getting a good view to the northward from the summit of
+a hill about two hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. But
+it was a most cheerless scene that presented itself in that direction.
+Nothing but ice, tight and impassable, was to be seen--a solid
+impenetrable mass that no amount of imagination or theoretical belief
+could ever twist into an "open Polar Sea"!
+
+We were reluctantly compelled to come to the conclusion that we had in
+reality arrived on the shore of the Polar Ocean; a frozen sea, of such a
+character as utterly to preclude the possibility of its being navigated
+by a ship; a wide expanse of ice and snow, whose impenetrable fastnesses
+seemed to defy the puny efforts of mortal men to invade and expose their
+hitherto sealed and hidden mysteries. Still we did not give up all hope
+of reaching a higher northern position in the ship. We knew the
+wonderful effect that a gale of wind would produce on the pack, and we
+hoped when the weather cleared, we should still be able to see, and
+reach, land to the northward.
+
+For the present then we could only put our trust in Providence, who had
+already guarded and favoured us almost beyond our most sanguine
+expectations, and pray that He might still continue to watch over and
+protect us, and grant us such a measure of success as would increase our
+knowledge of this world and thereby add to His glory.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+FLOE-BERG BEACH.
+
+
+  "The cold earth slept below,
+   Above the cold sky shone,
+   And all around
+   With a chilling sound,
+   From caves of ice and fields of snow
+   The breath of night like death did flow
+   Beneath the sinking moon."
+
+     SHELLEY.
+
+In order more effectually to ensure the safety of the ship, the men were
+at once employed in removing a large quantity of loose ice, directly
+inside the line of friendly floe-bergs, so as to allow the vessel to be
+hauled farther in and thus obtain more complete protection from the
+encroachments of the pack. This was no easy work, for the wind had again
+sprung up and blew with terrific violence, whilst the temperature had
+fallen as much as ten degrees below the freezing point.
+
+Before we had succeeded in completing our preparations a violent squall
+struck the ship, the lines by which she was temporarily held parted, and
+we were blown clean out from our harbour of refuge. Steam was instantly
+raised, and an anchor let go, which fortunately brought us up. During
+the succeeding hours the gale blew with increased fury, but being an
+off-shore wind, we were in a measure protected, whilst it had the effect
+of driving the pack off, so as to raise our hopes at the prospect of
+again proceeding northward.
+
+Suddenly, without any warning, the wind shifted, and drove the whole
+body of the pack towards the land. Our danger now was imminent. To be
+caught between the fast closing ice and the grounded floe-bergs would be
+certain destruction, to escape to the southward before the pack impinged
+on Cape Union was quite out of the question, and to steam into the pack
+would be madness. Our only hope of safety was to endeavour to haul the
+ship inside the grounded floe-bergs, and again avail ourselves of their
+friendly protection. No time was to be lost; it was a case of almost
+life and death to us. The men, always to be depended upon in a crisis
+like the present, responded to the call with alacrity, and by dint of
+hard work we succeeded in hauling the ship into a safe position. We were
+not a moment too soon: it was a race between the ice and the ship, in
+which the latter was, fortunately for us, the victor. Scarcely had we
+reached our place of refuge when the pack came into contact with the
+bergs, scrunching and squeezing in a most unpleasant manner as it swept
+by, and serving to illustrate, in a very practical way, the dreadful
+fate to which we should have been subjected had we not been fortunate
+enough to escape in time.
+
+It is difficult to imagine a more desolate position to pass a winter
+than the one in which we were placed. Our ship was on an exposed and,
+apparently, unsafe coast, without even the protection of a bay, within
+one hundred yards of a low undulating beach, on which, should any
+extraordinary pressure of the pack destroy our protecting bergs, we must
+inevitably be forced and wrecked, exposed to all the rigours of an
+Arctic winter; and yet, notwithstanding these unenviable drawbacks, the
+official announcement that this place had been decided upon as our
+winter quarters was received with a deep feeling of relief and
+thankfulness. This determination was not, however, arrived at for some
+days, when, from careful watching of the pack, it was decided that a
+farther advance was absolutely impossible.
+
+Winter was advancing upon us with rapid strides, eager to seize us in
+its icy grasp; so quickly, indeed, that in two days we were able to
+_walk on shore_ on the new and rapidly forming ice. The now steadily
+falling temperature was another and a sure indication that the navigable
+season was at an end.
+
+Without a harbour or projecting headland of any description to protect
+our good ship from the furious gusts that we must naturally expect, the
+"Alert" lay, apparently, in a vast frozen ocean, having land on one
+side, but bounded on the other by the chaotic and illimitable polar
+pack.
+
+The land had already assumed a wintry aspect, and the ship, to be in
+unison with her surroundings, had also put on a garb of snow and ice,
+each spar and each rope being double its ordinary thickness from the
+accumulation of frost rime. Everything was white, solemn, and motionless
+around us; no voice of bird or beast was heard to disturb the silence.
+All was as still and silent as the tomb--a silence that until then had
+never been broken by the presence of man.
+
+  "No other noyse, nor people's troublous cries,
+   As still are wont to annoy the walled towne,
+   Might there be heard, but carelesse quiet lyes,
+   Wrapt in eternal silence far from enemyes."
+
+Night, to which we had long been strangers, gradually came upon us, the
+darkness increasing perceptibly as each day passed away. From the 3rd of
+September, on which day the sun set at midnight, the days decreased in
+length, and the stars were again seen to twinkle in the heavens.
+
+From a neighbouring hill we obtained a clear and unobstructed view of
+our surroundings. The coast continued to the N.W. in a succession of
+large bays, terminating in an abrupt cape some forty miles distant. In
+order to assimilate the names of the various bays and headlands with
+those of the American chart, this extreme point was called Cape Joseph
+Henry. Beyond Cape Joseph Henry all was conjecture. It might be the
+southern extreme of a large bay or inlet, or it might be the northern
+termination of land. No land of any description could be seen to the
+northward--nothing but the rugged pack. So formidable and compact
+appeared this icy barrier that it seemed to stand out bold and resolute
+in its strength, effectually setting at defiance the puny efforts of man
+to penetrate its solidity, saying, as it were, "Thus far shalt thou go,
+and no farther." And, indeed, we had much cause to be thankful to Him
+who had hitherto watched over and protected us in many dangers, and who
+had allowed us to penetrate thus far into this remote and unknown
+portion of the globe.
+
+A long range of high hills could be seen to the westward, whilst on the
+opposite side of the channel the distant land of Greenland was
+indistinctly observed, its most northern point bearing about N.E.
+(_true_).[1]
+
+The positions of the northern extremes of land, on either side of the
+channel, were, for a time, a matter of some uncertainty, and it was
+really doubtful which was situated in the highest latitude. It was not
+until after the return of the autumn sledging parties that this
+important question was definitely decided, the land on the western side
+proving to be nearest the Pole.
+
+It must not be imagined, because farther progress in the ship had
+ceased, that our labours had in any way diminished; on the contrary, we
+felt that our real work was about to commence: a work in which we should
+all share in a greater or less degree, and a work the achievement of
+which had been our sole engrossing thought since leaving England.
+
+Before finally deciding upon the position of our winter quarters,
+Captain Nares was desirous of ascertaining whether a more protected spot
+could be found for the ship in the numerous bays to the N.W. than the
+exposed position she then occupied.
+
+Accordingly, early on the 5th of September, Aldrich and myself started
+away with a couple of sledges, each drawn by a team of eight dogs, under
+the guidance of Frederic the Eskimo, and Petersen, the Danish
+dog-driver. Our route lay along the edge of the coast, where, at times,
+we were able to take advantage of the ice-foot on which to travel; but
+as a rule there was no continuity of this land-ice, and we were
+compelled to strike across an undulating country, deeply covered with
+snow, ascending hills frequently as high as two and three hundred feet
+above the level of the sea, whence we obtained good views of the
+surrounding country. The general direction in which we travelled was
+N.W., the coast line being a series of indentations in the land, some of
+such a size as to form fine harbours and bays; but, alas! they could not
+be utilized for our ship, for they were rendered unapproachable by a
+chain of high hummocks extending in every case across the entrances,
+whilst the water in the harbours appeared to be permanently frozen, and
+therefore inaccessible for a vessel.
+
+It was a novel sensation to us to be thus dashing along on our light
+sledges, exploring a perfectly unknown country: a wild and barren tract
+of land, a snow-covered expanse, receding from our view in long
+undulations into the interior, until lost amongst the high
+conical-shaped hills of from one to two thousand feet in height, that
+invariably form the chief feature of Arctic scenery in these high
+latitudes. At noon we made a brief halt for luncheon, our appetites
+having been rendered doubly keen by the sharp cold air of a temperature
+some twenty degrees below freezing point; but which had, until the halt
+was called, been unheeded, the constant jumping on and off the sledge
+and assisting the dogs over difficulties having kept us in a perfect
+glow. Innocently pulling off our mitts, we commenced a vigorous
+onslaught upon the Australian beef with which we had supplied ourselves;
+but the first contact of our fingers with the handles of the knives
+proved the folly of such a proceeding, and compelled us again to resume
+our mitts. These, however, were now frozen so hard that they were with
+difficulty put on! Petersen using a tin cup to drink a little rum mixed
+with snow, and disregarding his mitts, burnt his hand rather severely,
+whilst we were all obliged to rub the edge of the cup well with our
+hands before putting it to our lips!
+
+These little inconveniences were to us a source of great merriment; in
+fact, they must really be experienced before they can be properly and
+thoroughly appreciated!
+
+The Eskimo dogs appear to me to be very differently constituted to their
+more civilized brethren. In England a halt for lunch whilst shooting is
+a signal for all the dogs to assemble and importune for fragments of the
+feast, which they greedily devour. My own dog "Nellie" would never be
+satisfied without obtaining a very large share of any impromptu meal.
+With the Eskimo dogs it is quite different. As soon as the sledges are
+halted they lie down and sleep, and rarely attempt to move until they
+are required to do so. Should a piece of meat be thrown to them they may
+condescend to swallow it; but they turn up their noses at a piece of
+biscuit, utterly despising it as an article of food. Yet these dogs are
+excessively voracious, and always hungry! Nothing in the shape of fresh
+meat, or even skin, is safe from their insatiable voracity; even the
+thongs that are used for lashing the different parts of a sledge
+together, unless they have been well rubbed over with tar, are unsafe,
+and will most assuredly be gnawed off. Notwithstanding this, they have
+little liking for cooked meat, positively refuse biscuit, and are not
+troublesome when they observe you eating.
+
+We were _en route_ again directly our luncheon was consumed, the dogs
+starting off with renewed vigour and speed after their short rest, when
+we came suddenly upon a precipitous ravine, almost too late to stop our
+team in their headlong career. By springing out of the sledge and
+holding on with might and main, we just succeeded in stopping them in
+time, pulling up almost on the very brink of the precipice. Retracing
+our steps for a short distance, we left the hills, and continued our
+course along the coast line, until our farther progress was checked by
+water, a channel connecting two large bays, which from their shape
+afterwards went by the name of Dumb-bell Bay.
+
+[Illustration: DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES.]
+
+Swimming about in this little sheet of water was a small flock of
+eider-ducks, eleven in number, that appeared to be as much surprised at
+beholding us as we were at seeing them. They did not, however, seem
+disposed to fly away. The only weapon we had was a rifle with twelve
+rounds of ammunition. With this we commenced hostilities, rejoicing in
+the anticipation of a fresh-meat meal when we returned to the ship. So
+utterly unconcerned did they appear that we actually succeeded in
+shooting five before the remainder took flight; but to our great chagrin
+we were unable to possess ourselves of any of our victims, as they had
+unfortunately all fallen into the water _just_ out of our reach. This
+was very tantalizing, as neither of us felt inclined to risk being
+frozen for the sake even of roast duck by plunging in after them. We
+were reluctantly compelled to leave them. During the following week,
+however, they were recovered, having all been frozen together in the
+water. With the exception of these birds, no animal life was seen,
+although we observed numerous traces of ptarmigan and lemmings. Tufts of
+saxifrage and some grasses were seen, but so thickly was the land
+covered with snow that it was impossible to arrive at any conclusion
+regarding the vegetation of the country.
+
+In consequence of the report that we brought back, Floe-berg Beach was
+decided upon as the position of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and
+preparations were immediately made for securing the ship, and for making
+as extensive an exploration of the land to the northward as the duration
+of light would admit.
+
+The land in our immediate vicinity was also very naturally an object of
+special interest to us. Speculations were rife regarding its extent and
+formation. The possibility of obtaining game of any description was a
+matter of much importance to us who were doomed to pass so many months
+in these icy solitudes. Alas! any hopes that we had cherished in this
+respect were soon found to be fallacious. The land, for the succeeding
+eight months, proved to be as devoid of life as its appearance was
+sterile and desolate.
+
+On the 9th of September Aldrich went away with the dog-sledges,
+accompanied by two or three of his messmates, for three days, for the
+purpose of more thoroughly exploring the country in the hopes of
+obtaining game.
+
+On the 11th I left the ship with Parr and Egerton and eighteen men, with
+the object of advancing a couple of boats to the northward along the
+proposed route of exploration. It was thought that they might prove
+useful during the future sledging operations of the expedition. We came
+back in four days, having successfully accomplished our mission.
+
+On our return journey we encountered a furious gale of wind, which broke
+up the ice along the coast line, and forced us to drag our sledges over
+the hills, the summits of which were almost bare, the force of the gale
+having blown the snow completely off. Any one who has ever attempted to
+drag a sledge over a rough stony road will know the severe toil and
+labour that is required to be exerted in order to make any progress.
+Crossing a bay we made a short halt for luncheon on the ice, under the
+lee of a high hummock, and narrowly escaped destruction from having
+selected such a spot for a halt. Without our observing it, the ice began
+breaking up, and it was only by strenuous exertions that we succeeded in
+reaching the shore in safety, whence we observed the ice on which we had
+recently been encamped drifting in small fragments to seaward. If this
+disruption had not been observed in time, nothing short of a miracle
+could have saved us.
+
+The violence of the gale was so terrific that pebbles and shingle were
+blown along by its force, mercilessly striking our faces and causing
+acute pain. Still we had to struggle onwards, for there was no possible
+lee under which we could pitch our tents and obtain shelter. An attempt
+to do so was unsuccessful, and had to be abandoned.
+
+One of the men, failing from sheer exhaustion, had to be carried on the
+sledge. This seriously added to our difficulties, for it increased the
+load which the wearied sledgers had to drag, whilst it diminished the
+power of the draggers. But the indomitable spirit and pluck of the
+British sailor overcame all obstacles, and after an arduous march of
+eighteen hours in the face of a furious hurricane, we arrived, to our no
+small relief, alongside the "Alert." Never was a goal attained with more
+pleasure and satisfaction than was our Arctic home reached that night by
+the fatigued and half-blinded sledge travellers. Untrained as they were,
+this forced march had seriously overtaxed their strength and entailed
+much suffering. Some few were, on their return, placed under the
+doctor's hands.
+
+Meanwhile those remaining on board the ship, but few in number, spent an
+anxious and trying time.
+
+The young ice, by which the ship was surrounded, had been completely
+broken up by the fury of the gale, and had disappeared; and had it not
+been for the protecting grounded floe-bergs, small mercy would have been
+shown to the good ship "Alert," by "ye thick-ribbed ice."
+
+Small fragments of the pack, large enough, however, to be unpleasant
+and disagreeable neighbours, would occasionally find their way between
+the floe-bergs, and drift about in our immediate vicinity. These it was
+our object to secure as speedily as possible, otherwise their incessant
+movement backwards and forwards with the tide would break up the young
+ice, or even prevent it from forming. The ominous grinding noise of the
+pack, as it swayed to and fro in the channel, and the terrible war that
+appeared to be raging between the floes as they came into furious
+contact with each other, pulverizing their sides or rending huge
+fragments from their edges, was a sound and sight that struck us with
+wonder and awe.
+
+The grandeur and solemnity of the scene gave rise to thoughts of our own
+weakness and insignificance amidst these wonders of the far north.
+
+On the morning after our return on board, the wind having subsided
+considerably, and a large channel of water existing between the land and
+the pack, Captain Nares determined upon seeking more secure and
+sheltered winter quarters in one of the numerous bays immediately to the
+northward of our present position, in the hope that the gale would have
+broken up the ice and so afforded us an entrance.
+
+Steam was quickly raised and the rudder shipped; but from some, at that
+time, unknown cause we were unable to lower the screw into its place, or
+rather to enter the shaft. Our chance therefore of getting away was
+lost, as before midnight the gale was blowing as furiously as ever. The
+following day, however, the weather again cleared up, and renewed
+attempts were made to ship the screw, but always without success. Whilst
+so engaged a shift of wind occurred, and we had the mortification of
+seeing the whole body of the pack close the channel of water and resume
+its place along the coast, where it remained during the entire winter,
+effectually sealing us up. We had good reason to be thankful to our
+screw for causing our detention, for a subsequent examination of the
+coast proved only too plainly that the ice had not been broken up and
+blown out of any of the harbours that we should have sought, and that we
+should not have found any better sheltered position than the one we then
+occupied. In all probability we should have been caught by the fast
+closing ice--an occurrence rather unpleasant even to speculate upon. We
+afterwards discovered the reason for the failure of our attempts to ship
+the screw. On lowering it into the water, the ice formed so quickly in
+the "boss" that it effectually prevented the shaft from entering!
+
+The ship was now secured by lines to the floe-bergs, and by anchors and
+cables to the shore, until she should be permanently frozen in.
+
+We also busily engaged ourselves in making the necessary preparations
+for the autumn sledging operations. Travelling garments were issued,
+tents thoroughly overhauled, and sledges prepared.
+
+On the 22nd of September Aldrich was despatched with three men and two
+dog-sledges, provisioned for fourteen days, as a sort of pioneering
+expedition; his orders being to proceed, if possible, as far as Cape
+Joseph Henry, there to erect a cairn and deposit a record with full
+information regarding the practicability of travelling, that would be of
+use to the main party which would follow him in a few days.
+
+By the 25th the ice had again formed around the ship, and was of
+sufficient thickness to bear heavy weights. This was the day selected
+for the departure of the sledging parties. The force consisted of three
+eight-men sledges, officered by Parr and May, the whole under my
+command. My sledge was named the "Marco Polo;" Parr's, the "Victoria;"
+and May's, the "Hercules." My orders were to advance as far to the
+northward, along the land, as possible, and at our extreme position to
+establish a large depot of provisions in readiness for the use of the
+main exploring parties that would be despatched in that direction during
+the ensuing spring. Our provisions were all carefully weighed and
+packed; the maximum weight dragged by each man on leaving the ship was
+201 lbs., decreasing at the rate of 3 lbs. per diem due to the
+consumption of provisions. The slight experience that we obtained during
+the previous few days' sledging stood us now in good stead; the men who
+had recently been so employed being regarded as veterans in sledge work
+by those who were for the first time being initiated into its mysteries.
+All started in the very best spirits, animated by the same desire to do
+their utmost, and to achieve, so far as in them lay, success and honour
+for the expedition.
+
+The details connected with the sledging operations must have a chapter
+to themselves. I make no apology for not entering more fully into the
+journeys performed by Aldrich and others, as the description of one
+sledging expedition suffices for all, and I am, of course, best able to
+describe those in which I was myself personally engaged.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] All compass bearings referred to are _true_, unless stated to be
+    _magnetic_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+AUTUMN TRAVELLING.
+
+
+  "When suddenly a grosse fog over spred,
+     With his dull vapour all that desert has,
+   And heaven's cheerfull face enveloped;
+     That all things one, and one as nothing was,
+     And this great universe seemed one confused mass.
+
+  "Thereat they greatly were dismay'd, ne wist
+     How to direct theyr way in darknes wide;
+   But feared to wander in that wastefull miste,
+     For tombling into mischiefe unespyde:
+     Worse is the danger hidden than descride."
+
+     SPENSER.
+
+There are, I am sure, many among those "who stay at home at ease" who
+have little or no idea of what sledge travelling in the Arctic Regions
+is like, and who even fail to realize that it entails hard work of any
+description.
+
+Their imaginations picture the travellers seated on sledges, comfortably
+wrapped up in shawls and furs, and drawn by a team of dogs or reindeer
+gaily caparisoned, with their bells jingling as they dash along at a
+rapid pace over a smooth plain of snow and ice. They imagine that after
+the toil of the day is over a large fire is built up, and, having
+obtained some salmon, venison, or other product of the chase, a
+sumptuous meal is cooked and discussed, after which the sledge
+travellers compose themselves to sleep in a nice warm snow-house or
+wooden hut constructed by their attendants. All this sounds very
+delightful, and is, to my personal knowledge, believed to be a fairly
+true picture of Arctic life by a large majority of people. Unfortunately
+it is the very reverse of sledge life on the shores of the Polar Ocean.
+Let us see what it is like in reality. There, great climatic hardships
+have to be endured, combined with physical labour of no ordinary
+description. No change or variety of any sort can be made in the fare,
+nor can more than a certain allowance be allotted to each individual.
+When that is consumed, hunger must be borne with patience until the time
+has arrived for the next meal, for until that is due nothing is
+obtainable.
+
+For shelter at night time, a tent made of the very lightest material
+(for economy of weight is the most important point to be considered in
+sledge travelling) is all the covering to protect the travellers from
+the furious onslaughts of a biting wind, always accompanied by a
+blinding snow-drift. So searching is the latter that in spite of all
+efforts it will penetrate through every little orifice into the tent,
+covering everything inside with a layer of minute snow crystals, and
+rendering an uncomfortable night still more comfortless and
+disagreeable. Rolled up in their bags, with the hard frozen sea as their
+couch, affording little rest to their aching and frost-bitten limbs, the
+wearied sledgers vainly attempt in sleep to become oblivious to the
+present. As for a fire by which circulation might be restored in their
+numbed extremities, that is quite out of the question. A limited amount
+of spirits of wine, barely sufficient to cook the allowance of
+provisions, is all the fuel with which they are supplied. Even if the
+material for making a fire, such as driftwood, was available, it would
+be impossible to benefit by it, for it could not be lighted in the tent,
+whilst outside, under such circumstances as I have related, it would be
+impracticable.
+
+This is a slight sketch of what has to be endured by the Polar sledge
+traveller; but a cheerful spirit, a contented mind, and an ardent desire
+to achieve success are quite sufficient to enable him to withstand the
+attendant hardships, and even to laugh at and treat them with contempt.
+
+I cannot do better than quote the words of Sir George Nares, who,
+addressing our men before leaving England, whilst explaining to them the
+nature of the work that they were about to engage in, and speaking from
+his own personal previous experience of sledge life, said, "That if they
+could imagine the hardest work they had ever been called upon to perform
+in their lives intensified to the utmost degree, it would only be as
+child's play in comparison with the work they would have to perform
+whilst sledging!"
+
+These prophetic words were fully realized, and were often recalled and
+commented on by the men during their initiation into the work of
+sledging.
+
+The autumn sledge travelling has been alluded to by a very distinguished
+and successful explorer in the Arctic Regions, as "the very acme of
+discomfort." In the accuracy of this statement we, one and all, fully
+concurred.
+
+The principal reasons that sledging at this period of the year is more
+disagreeable than in the spring are, first, because the rapidly
+decreasing light caused by the sun's altitude lessening day by day is
+decidedly opposed to either work or comfort. Before our return from
+sledging, the sun had illumined for the last time, until its
+reappearance the following year, the summits of the snow-covered hills
+in the vicinity of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and had sunk, slowly
+and majestically, beneath the southern horizon, bequeathing to us only
+for a short time a few bright rays until the long polar night wrapped us
+in its sombre mantle, and enveloped us in gloom and obscurity for many
+months.
+
+  "'Tis gone, that bright and orbed blaze,
+   Fast fading from our wistful gaze;
+   Yon mantling cloud has hid from sight
+   The last faint pulse of quivering light."
+
+A few hours of twilight, therefore, were all we had in which to work.
+Candles we had none. Our breakfast before we started in the morning and
+our supper after we halted in the evening had to be discussed in gloomy
+darkness. Our notes had to be written in our journals before entering
+the tent, even at the risk of frost-bitten fingers.
+
+In the second place, at this time of the year the ice, over which the
+sledges have to be dragged, is of very recent formation, and is
+consequently weak and dangerous. The travellers are therefore more
+liable to immersion by breaking through the thin ice at this period of
+the season than they are during the spring, or indeed at any other time.
+Young, and therefore smooth and level ice, covered with a treacherous
+layer of snow, often entices the unwary to turn from the rougher but
+stronger floes to travel on its flat plain surface. An immersion is
+invariably the result. Sometimes the leading men on the drag-ropes break
+through this weak ice first, and, by so doing, time is given to stop and
+save the sledge; but very often the ice directly under the sledge gives
+way without previous warning, when every effort must be at once directed
+to save the sledge. Although this is always successful it is generally
+at the expense of the greater part of the biscuit, which is so saturated
+with salt water as to be uneatable, and the wetting, and the consequent
+freezing, of the tent with all its appurtenances. Nothing more wretched
+and miserable can be conceived than having to pass the night in a
+stiffly frozen sleeping bag, inside a tent, which at the best of times
+is barely large enough to accommodate the party of men for whom it is
+allotted, but which has been considerably shrunk by being frozen. Not
+the least unpleasant part is the process of pitching it, for having
+become as hard as a piece of board, it is with great difficulty
+unfolded; more especially as this operation has to be performed after
+the fatigues of a hard day's sledging, by wearied men, in such a
+temperature that it is impossible to expose the hands bare to the cold,
+and it must therefore be carried out with mittens on.
+
+The constant wetting of the feet also renders the men more liable to
+frost-bites; whilst the heavy fall of snow, usually experienced in these
+regions during the autumn, renders the work ten times more arduous. For
+the air thus becomes so thick that it is impossible to see many yards
+ahead, and we have to trust solely to a compass as a guide. We might, in
+truth, fairly quote the lines from Spenser's "Faerie Queene," at the
+heading of the present chapter, as illustrating our difficulties in
+this respect--
+
+  "That all things one, and one as nothing was,
+   And this great universe seemed one confused mass."
+
+And lastly this continual breaking through the ice of both men and
+sledge, combined with the heavy and incessant fall of snow, renders the
+task of walking and dragging a sledge one of extreme labour and anxiety.
+These were the little difficulties we had to experience during our
+novitiate in this autumn sledge travelling, and they must be generally
+expected by explorers who go away so late in the year.
+
+[Illustration: START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES.]
+
+In a future chapter I propose to give a full account of the routine of
+sledge life, of the equipment and scale of provisions, and of all other
+details connected with sledging operations in the Arctic Regions. I will
+now, therefore, proceed at once to give a brief account of our journey,
+for the purpose of laying out a depot in the autumn, which occupied
+three weeks of very severe and harassing work.
+
+At eight o'clock, on the 25th of September, the three officers
+commanding sledges, myself and Lieutenants Parr and May, assembled at
+breakfast in sledging costume, and a rattling good breakfast our caterer
+gave us. At 8.15 our standards were displayed on the sledges, the ship
+hoisting the ensign. At 8.30 the crews took up their stations alongside
+their respective sledges, and the order was given to march. Our men
+stepped out bravely, and as they did so three hearty cheers resounded
+from the ship. I called a halt and returned the salute with as much
+emphasis as twenty-four powerful pairs of lungs could give, and then
+continued the march. The young ice seemed strong enough to bear, so
+leaving the ice foot, on which the travelling was heavy, we ventured on
+the new ice. But we had not gone more than a mile when, to my horror,
+Parr's sledge, the "Victoria," went through! It was a case of all hands
+to the rescue, and after fifteen minutes of hard tugging and hauling we
+succeeded in dragging it upon a firm piece of ice. But everything was
+thoroughly saturated. There was nothing for it but to send back at once
+for another sledge and dry things. This being done, we again proceeded
+for about three miles, when suddenly I heard a crack, and looking round,
+there was my sledge through! We dragged it on shore, and unpacking at
+once, I was glad to find that we had suffered less than the "Victoria;"
+but it was bad enough. Our tent and gear at the top were of course
+saturated, and nearly all our biscuit spoilt. However, I did not think
+it advisable to return, so re-packing we made another start, and shortly
+afterwards were rejoined by Parr. After marching for twelve miles I
+halted for the night with the temperature 3 deg. below zero, the tent frozen
+hard and shrunk considerably. Next day we marched thirteen miles over
+ice whose blue uneven surface was as smooth as glass, making it very
+hard work for the men, who were sorely put to it to maintain their
+footing. They worked splendidly, trudging merrily along, making light of
+the heavy loads and the treacherous ice, thinking only of performing a
+good day's work, and of advancing the depot as far north as possible.
+
+On the third day, being unable to round a point of land owing to several
+lanes of water, we were obliged to unload the sledges and carry the
+things piecemeal across a neck of land about two miles in width and a
+hundred feet above the level of the sea. On the same evening snow began
+to fall, and from that time it fell incessantly until our return to the
+ship, increasing in depth day by day. This, combined with the softness
+of the snow as it fell, seriously impeded our advance, and we were
+frequently obliged to halt our sledges whilst the men were employed
+clearing a road with the shovels. So impervious was the air, owing to
+the heavy fall of snow, that it was only occasionally that we were able
+to obtain glimpses of the land as we journeyed onwards, rendering it
+most difficult to make out its conformation, or even the direction in
+which the coast line trended.
+
+From the unaccustomed work of dragging, the shoulders of the men began
+to evince symptoms of rawness, although they constantly shifted their
+drag belts from one shoulder to the other. In spite of these little
+drawbacks, and the dull overcast weather that generally prevailed, the
+spirits of the men never flagged, and every night the labour of the day
+would be forgotten, and singing and laughter would be the only sounds
+heard issuing from our little camp, long after we had comfortably
+settled ourselves in our sleeping bags.
+
+It was amusing to listen to the quaint remarks and witty conversation of
+the men, as, reclining in their bags and smoking their pipes, they
+would, regardless of the generally dreaded presence of the commander,
+broach lower deck topics, and freely discuss and criticize them. I was
+much surprised at the extensive Arctic knowledge which they possessed,
+showing that they had read largely on this subject, and were anxious to
+learn yet more.
+
+I must own that the subject of eating and drinking monopolized a very
+large share of the conversation; nor did they only occupy our minds
+whilst awake, for they frequently formed the subject of our dreams. On
+one occasion when I aroused the men in the morning one of them said,
+"Oh! I am sorry you called me so soon, sir, for I was dreaming that I
+was eating plum pudding, and if you had let me finish it would have been
+as good as a breakfast to me!" Gales of wind were, of course, serious
+impediments to our advance, and were of not unfrequent occurrence. They
+invariably necessitated a halt, as, irrespective of the cold wind being
+productive of frost-bites, it was almost impossible to make way through
+the blinding snow-drift, which did not admit of anything being seen even
+at the distance of a yard or two!
+
+On the 4th of October, half our provisions being consumed, and there
+being the prospect of very heavy travelling before us on our homeward
+journey, it was decided to return. The depot was therefore established,
+on the brow of a ridge just above our encampment. It consisted of 870
+lbs. of pemmican and 240 lbs. of bacon. May and myself pushed on, with
+the object of reaching Cape Joseph Henry; but the weather was too thick
+to obtain any view, and, for the same reason, it was impossible to
+ascertain the trend of the coast or the nature of the travelling to the
+northward. The floes seemed to be composed of very heavy ice, and the
+hummocks were piled up to a great height along the coast, especially off
+any projecting points of land. Lieutenant Aldrich had, however, ascended
+a hill some two thousand feet in height, and was fortunate in having a
+fine clear day. From Cape Joseph Henry the land, he saw, trended away to
+the westward, but there was no indication of anything but the
+impenetrable polar pack to the north. We reached a latitude of about 82 deg.
+50' N. before turning our steps homewards.
+
+On the return journey the dragging became infinitely more irksome and
+laborious. The snow had accumulated to such a depth as to render some of
+the ravines and promontories almost impassable, being above the men's
+knees nearly all the time. On one occasion we were compelled to take our
+sledges up a range of hills two hundred and fifty feet above the level
+of the sea, in order to pass a precipitous cliff, off which was a stream
+of water, and then to lower them down a steep incline on the opposite
+side. To add to our difficulties, a sudden fall of temperature produced
+many severe frost-bites, principally on the feet and toes. Circulation
+was always restored as speedily as possible by the application of the
+warm hand, and the injured part was then dressed with glycerine ointment
+and lint.
+
+The hills, over which we were obliged to take our sledges, subsequently
+went by the name of the "Frost-bite Range," in consequence of the many
+casualties sustained during the time we were on them.
+
+On the 9th the temperature was 15 deg. below zero, and the boots, stockings,
+and foot wrappers were frozen to the men's feet. On coming down the
+hills the sledges had literally to be lowered to the ice-foot from a
+height of two hundred and fifty feet, at a very steep angle. Thence it
+was necessary to follow the shore, where enormous hummocks of ice were
+piled up, having huge cracks and fissures, into which we sunk to our
+necks in snow. In crossing some sludgy ice between the hummocks, on the
+11th, Lieutenant May unfortunately went through, and was so severely
+frost-bitten that he eventually had to suffer amputation of one of his
+great toes.
+
+The sun set at about one in the afternoon. A glorious sight: the colours
+of the sunrise and sunset seeming to be blended together. This was on
+Tuesday, and at breakfast on the following Friday all the provisions
+would be expended. The 13th was the last day of the sun's appearance.
+
+On the 14th the temperature was down to 25 deg. below zero, and the
+travelling very heavy; but our sufferings were nearly over. At seven we
+sighted the ship, and hoisted our sledge standards. All the officers and
+ship's company came out to meet and help us, and by 8.50 P.M. we were on
+board.
+
+Some of the frost-bites were so severe as to render amputation
+necessary. This arose from the difficulty of finding out the injury in
+time. A frost-bite steals upon one like a thief in the night, and before
+the victim is aware it often happens that mortification has set in. No
+less than half the party were placed on the sick list from being more or
+less severely frost-bitten.
+
+It was a very great relief and comfort to us to be again on board, and
+extremely gratifying to receive such a welcome as that extended to us by
+our messmates. They were already feeling a little anxious at our
+prolonged absence, knowing that we were only provisioned for twenty
+days, and fearing that our return journey would be greatly delayed by
+the late excessive fall of snow.
+
+How comfortable the ward-room looked, with the lamps burning brightly, a
+cheerful fire blazing in the stove, and, what delighted us almost still
+more, a clean white cloth spread upon the table, and on it a sumptuous
+repast, made doubly inviting by a couple of decanters of madeira and
+port! These little comforts and luxuries, though they may appear to
+casual readers unimportant and insignificant, are thoroughly enjoyed and
+appreciated by wearied and foot-sore travellers who have been strangers
+to light, comfort, and a good meal, though only for three short weeks.
+The pleasure of a warm bath and the enjoyment of brushing one's hair are
+beyond all description! We were all a little thinner when we returned;
+but, with the exception of the frost-bites, none the worse for our
+expedition.
+
+So far as the results were concerned we were quite satisfied,
+considering them perfectly successful.
+
+We had established a depot of provisions some forty miles to the
+northward of the ship, which would very materially assist the sledging
+campaign of the ensuing spring. A large amount of thorough practical
+experience had been gained, which we hoped would bear good fruit in the
+coming year. And we had succeeded in reaching and passing the highest
+latitude attained, to the northward of Spitzbergen, by that
+distinguished Arctic navigator, Sir Edward Parry, forty-eight years
+before, during his memorable journey over the frozen sea towards the
+North Pole.
+
+These were the most important results gained by the autumn sledging.
+
+The disappearance of the sun before our return necessarily prevented a
+more protracted exploration being made. As it was we only had sufficient
+light during midday for a very few hours' work.
+
+Perhaps, as it was our first experience in sledging, it was as well we
+were not able to remain absent for a greater length of time. As an
+instance of the manner in which the different articles increased in
+weight during the autumn travelling, we found on our return to the ship
+that the tent which had previously weighed 32 lbs. had increased to 55
+lbs., the coverlet from 21 lbs. to 48 lbs., the lower robe from 18 lbs.
+to 40 lbs., the floor-cloth from 11 lbs. to 29 lbs., and everything else
+in proportion! This increase is due to the absorption of all moisture,
+which instantly freezes. In the spring, although the temperature is far
+lower, this moisture, even when frozen, is extracted by exposure to the
+sun. In the autumn this is impossible, as the sun has disappeared.
+
+[Illustration: WINTER QUARTERS, H.M.S. "ALERT."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+WINTER QUARTERS.
+
+
+  "Let winter come! let polar spirits sweep
+   The dark'ning world and tempest-troubled deep.
+   Though boundless snows the withered heath deform,
+   And the dim sun _ne'er_ wanders through the storm,
+   Yet shall the smile of social love repay
+   With mental light the melancholy day."
+
+     CAMPBELL.
+
+The sledge travellers having all returned, the necessary preparations
+for passing the winter were immediately taken in hand.
+
+Notwithstanding the loss of the sun, which took its final departure on
+the 11th of October, we had for many days sufficient light, during five
+or six hours of the day, to enable us to carry out the manifold duties
+connected with the preparations for a winter in the Arctic Regions.
+
+Although the ship was completely frozen in, and the ice in which she was
+imprisoned was increasing in thickness day by day, additional
+precautions for her safety were taken by burying a couple of the largest
+anchors on shore, and freezing them into their holes by pouring water
+over them; to these were attached the chain cables. These we felt would
+be a perfect security for us against any off-shore gale.
+
+Provisions in large quantities were landed as a precaution, in case any
+unforeseen event should, during the winter, cause the destruction of our
+ship, and so at one fell swoop deprive us both of home and supplies. Out
+of the casks and cases so landed a spacious house was constructed,
+capable, if necessary, of affording accommodation to our entire party.
+This house, which went by the name of "Markham Hall," was used as a
+receptacle for sails, rope, sledge gear, and all articles that could not
+be conveniently stowed under hatches on board. Its dimensions were
+forty-nine feet long, by twelve feet wide, and ten feet high. The
+mainsail was used to roof it over. It was altogether a very grand
+edifice, and we were, and I think with some reason, very proud at the
+result of our architectural skill.
+
+The building mania seemed to be very prevalent amongst the officers, the
+majority of whom employed themselves in constructing snow-houses for
+various purposes near the ship. One officer went so far as to commence a
+_colonnade_, reaching from the shore to the ship, the pillars to be made
+of frozen blocks of snow, but the undertaking was of too gigantic a
+nature to be carried out with any hope of success, and was abandoned
+after a few days' work.
+
+A wooden observatory, brought out from England for the express purpose,
+was set up for the transit instrument, and this with a house adjoining,
+in which was placed the alt-azimuth instrument, being the head-quarters
+of our astronomical observers, Parr and May, went by the name of
+"Greenwich."
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING THE MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY AT "KEW."
+
+EXPLANATION OF PLAN.
+
+  A   The Unifilar House.
+  B   The Barrow Dip Circle House.
+  C   The Declinometer House.
+  DD  Passage connecting A and B, 371/2 ft. in length.
+  EEE The main passage, 120 ft. long.
+  F   Passage leading to Declinometer House, 44 ft. from entrance.
+  G   The main, and only, entrance. Distant from the _Alert_ 504 ft.
+      All houses and passages were "sub-glacial."]
+
+Snow-houses were constructed on shore for the several magnetic
+instruments, and these latter were securely fixed by being firmly frozen
+on snow pedestals. The three houses in which the instruments were
+placed were connected, one with the other, by sub-glacial passages, one
+being no less than a hundred and twenty feet in length. The whole
+establishment, which was most complete and reflected great credit on
+its architect, was called "Kew." Giffard and myself were the two
+officers entrusted with the charge of the magnetic observations, and
+many a cold and comfortless hour had we to spend, in our endeavours to
+add to the slight knowledge we possess in this interesting branch of
+science.
+
+Several other snow-houses were built for various purposes. One was for
+the reception of our powder, as it is most important that such a
+dangerous and combustible article should be removed from the ship, where
+of necessity so many fires have to be kept up. The place in which the
+powder was stored was called "Woolwich." Others were constructed in
+which were deposited all our salt beef for present use, and these
+buildings, of course, went by the name of "Deptford," after our great
+naval victualling depot in England.
+
+Altogether the neighbourhood of our winter quarters had the appearance
+of a young thriving settlement rapidly springing into maturity,
+rendering what would otherwise have been a barren and desolate scene,
+one of cheerful life and activity.
+
+The salt beef, which was exceptionally tough and salt, more so indeed
+than the ordinary salt "junk" used in the navy, was kept in a
+snow-house; because we found, by experiment, that it was rendered more
+palatable by so doing. In all probability the process of congelation
+tended to extract, or precipitate, a very large portion of the saline
+matter with which it was impregnated, and thus deprived it, to some
+extent, of its hardness and saltness.
+
+By the 26th of October the ship was completely "housed" in by a set of
+awnings, extending from the after part of the top-gallant forecastle to
+the mizzen-mast. This "housing" was made of a material called tilt
+cloth, similar to that used to cover waggons in England. It was spread
+on spars lashed between the masts, having curtains on each side so
+fitted that they could readily and easily be triced up when required for
+purposes of ventilation. Hanging lamps were suspended from the spars
+over the centre of the deck, which were kept alight night and day. The
+funnel, which was provided with a hinge, was lowered down, and formed a
+famous and convenient stow-hole for rope. The number of coils that were
+deposited in it was truly marvellous.
+
+[Illustration: FLAG-STAFF POINT.]
+
+Two gangways were cut in the ship's side: the one on the port side being
+used as the general one for entrance and exit; the one on the starboard
+for carrying out all slops and dirt to a large dirt-heap established
+between the hummocks, some hundred yards from the ship. A smaller
+dirt-heap was temporarily used nearer the ship, the accumulations being
+removed to the larger one once or twice a week.
+
+Although, as a rule, the snow was not well adapted for building purposes
+on account of its consistency, we were able to supply ourselves with
+blocks from certain places where the snow had drifted in large
+quantities and hardened by pressure.
+
+A snow wall, constructed from solid blocks obtained from these quarries,
+was formed round the ship at about six feet distance, and at the height
+of about four feet. When this was completed the space between the ship's
+side and this wall was filled in with snow, reaching as high as the fore
+and main channels, forming a perfectly solid and impervious embankment
+that would effectually aid in preserving the warmth of the ship. The
+upper deck was cleared of all superfluous articles, and was covered with
+snow about twelve inches deep. A layer of gravel and ashes was strewn
+over the surface; but I am not sure that we benefited much by this
+measure, for it was rendered so slippery by being frozen that it was by
+no means an easy matter to walk on it.
+
+All skylights and hatchways were carefully covered up, two only of the
+latter being kept open as a means of ingress and egress. These were so
+constructed with porches and double doors as to prevent the admission of
+the outside air. The doors, being fitted with weights, were made
+self-shutting, so that the closing of one door was insured before the
+opening of the other. Snow walls were also built up round the porches,
+and in fact round the hatchways and skylights not in use, so as to
+render them all the more impervious to the cold air.
+
+Round the funnel of the galley fire there was a large space, inclosed by
+a wall of snow, in which was deposited every morning a supply of ice or
+frozen snow, to be converted into water sufficient to last twenty-four
+hours. The ice for this purpose was procured from a large floe about one
+hundred and fifty yards from the ship, which in all probability was
+formed by the thawing and subsequent re-freezing of the snow on its
+surface. When it was difficult to find work for the men to do outside
+the ship during the winter, they were employed in conveying this ice to
+a large depot that was formed close to the vessel, protected from the
+Eskimo dogs by a snow wall, from which during gales of wind or other bad
+weather we were able to supply ourselves.
+
+Our boats were all hauled up in a safe position on shore. Sails were
+left bent, but securely furled and covered. Ropes that were not unrove
+were carefully hauled taut, so as to prevent our being kept awake during
+a gale of wind by an uninterrupted "devil's tattoo"--that is, the
+continual flapping of a rope against a spar, which produces a very
+aggravating and monotonous sound.
+
+Former expeditions were supplied with Sylvester's warming apparatus,
+which, by means of pipes leading along the whole length of the ship,
+warmed the "between decks" with hot air. The only means for heating the
+vessel at our disposal were by stoves. These were placed in various
+parts of the ship, and put under the charge of men who were
+periodically selected for this service. Stringent regulations were
+issued regarding the economical consumption of fuel, and also to guard
+against all accidents from fire.
+
+As it is necessary in all ships wintering in the Arctic Regions to
+devote a certain place to the washing and drying of clothes in which a
+high temperature can be constantly kept, we appointed for this purpose a
+compartment on the fore part of the lower deck, commonly called the
+fore-peak. The men had certain days during the week allotted to them for
+the use of this place, and it was found that clothes washed and hung up
+one afternoon would be invariably dry on the following morning.
+
+The vapour arising in this room did not reach the deck on which the men
+lived, but was conveyed through a trap hatch leading into the fore-peak
+to a large space under the top-gallant forecastle, inclosed by a snow
+wall and made its exit through an up-take formed of a piece of
+funnelling. The compartment was heated by a stove, the fire in which was
+kept burning night and day.
+
+The very difficult question of ventilation below was carefully
+considered. It is one of the most important and serious matters that can
+come under the consideration of the commander of an Arctic expedition.
+Nothing is so essential to the preservation of health as the pure and
+free circulation of air on the living deck.
+
+In this respect we were not so well off as our predecessors, for they,
+being supplied with the Sylvester heating apparatus, were able to admit
+a more constant current of air, and thus keep their habitable deck in a
+better state and more free from condensation than ours. We found it a
+very difficult matter to prevent in the slightest degree the
+accumulation of moisture on the beams overhead, caused by the
+condensation formed by the number of people living on the deck, and by
+the vapour arising from the galley fire. Several up-takes and down-takes
+were fitted in holes cut through the upper deck in our attempts to
+remedy this serious defect, but as a rule they had little effect in
+counteracting it. Men were incessantly employed during the winter in
+wiping the moisture off the beams with cloths. If the hatchway doors
+were kept open, even for a short time, this moisture was at once
+converted into ice, which, of course, thawed and dripped immediately as
+the temperature was raised. This drip was a constant source of annoyance
+to us during the whole winter, and it was one to which we had, in part,
+to submit.
+
+Whilst all these necessary preparations for the safety and warmth of the
+ship were being carried out, the comforts of those who were about to
+brave the rigours of an Arctic winter were not forgotten. Warm garments
+were issued, consisting principally of a complete suit of seal-skins and
+warm woollen guernseys. It must not be supposed that our seal-skins were
+of the same material as those soft fur jackets so much in vogue with the
+fair ones at home. Ours were obtained from the ordinary Greenland seals,
+whose skins are covered with coarse bristly hairs. They were,
+nevertheless, quite as warm, and were indeed our favourite articles of
+clothing after the unpleasant aroma, which seems inseparable from
+clothing of this description, had worn off, or until we had become so
+accustomed to it as to fail to notice it!
+
+Carpet boots, or moccasins made of moose-skin, were worn on the feet.
+The former were furnished with tops, made of duffel, reaching as high as
+the knees, and with cork soles over an inch thick. With any temperature
+below zero leather boots and shoes must be discontinued, as they freeze
+so hard that the material loses its flexibility, and renders the foot in
+consequence more liable to frost-bite. Moccasins, worn over a couple of
+pairs of blanket wrappers, and a pair of thick woollen stockings
+reaching above the knee, are undoubtedly the most comfortable foot-gear,
+and the best adapted for low temperatures. Blanket wrappers are, as
+their name indicates, strips of blanket, generally about sixteen inches
+square, worn folded round the feet in lieu of socks and stockings, than
+which they are infinitely warmer.
+
+As a rule, officers and men were dressed alike. Occasionally some of the
+former would make their appearance in long fur coats with hoods that
+they had obtained from the Hudson's Bay Company's store and other places
+in London, but the majority adhered to the clothing supplied to them by
+Government.
+
+A special winter routine was made out, and commenced shortly after the
+return of the sledge parties. It was strictly adhered to through the
+long winter night that ensued.
+
+I must not omit to mention the duty of keeping open the "fire hole"--a
+very necessary and important precaution, that must be taken, in order to
+be able to obtain a supply of water in case of fire breaking out on
+board. As a rule, in all ships that have wintered in the Arctic Regions,
+the water has frozen below the suction valves of the pumps, thus
+rendering them totally useless. In order, therefore, to obtain water, a
+hole was invariably cut through the ice near the ship, which was
+generally placed in charge of the quarter-master of the watch, whose
+duty it was from time to time to clear off the young ice from its
+surface, so that at any moment water might be obtained in buckets. In
+the "Alert," in consequence of our valves being much lower, our pumps
+were never incapacitated from this cause; still they were liable to be
+rendered useless by the water in the pipes becoming frozen. We therefore
+always kept our fire-hole in working order. It was close to the bow of
+the vessel, and was inclosed by a snow hut, so as to guard against the
+danger of anybody falling in whilst walking about in the dark. By fixing
+a tide-pole in the hole, and by devising a self-registering apparatus
+with a line leading from the tide-pole to the forecastle of the "Alert,"
+we were able to obtain a very complete and valuable series of tidal
+observations. From having the registering-gauge on board the ship, these
+observations were continued uninterruptedly, and were unaffected by
+gales of wind or bad weather, that would otherwise have prevented any
+one from going outside the vessel in order to note them.
+
+Thermometric observations were, as may be imagined, very carefully
+attended to, and the temperatures both inside and outside the ship duly
+registered. Maximum and minimum thermometers, by which the greatest heat
+and the greatest cold for each consecutive twenty-four hours were
+recorded, were established in different places, and were noted every day
+at noon by an officer especially appointed for that duty.
+
+Each compartment in the ship was supplied with one of these
+thermometers, and on the living deck the temperatures at three different
+heights--namely, at the deck, about half-way up, and at the beams--were
+daily registered. For the outside air one of the ice-saw triangles was
+erected on the floe, sufficiently distant from the ship to neutralize
+any influence that might be derived from her presence, and on this, at
+the height of about twelve feet, were placed several thermometers. In
+addition to these, there were other thermometers on the hill about a
+quarter of a mile from the ship, and about one hundred yards above the
+level of the sea, so that we were able to obtain a correct mean of the
+true temperature of the air. We were also able to ascertain the
+temperature of the snow, and the ground at different depths; and also,
+by means of solar radiation thermometers, we succeeded, on the return of
+the sun, in getting the temperature due to its rays at various
+altitudes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
+
+
+  "Haste thee, Nymph, and bring with thee
+   Jest and youthful jollity,
+   Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles,
+   Nods, and becks, and wreathed smiles,
+   Sport that wrinkled Care derides,
+   And Laughter holding both his sides."
+
+     MILTON.
+
+Sir Edward Parry, during his first and subsequent winters in the Arctic
+Regions, fully recognized the importance of not only exercising and
+improving the minds of those under his command, during the long period
+of enforced inaction, but also of amusing them, and letting them feel
+that they also were assisting in the amusement of their shipmates. To do
+this he instituted an evening school on the lower deck, the officers
+acting as teachers; and he established periodicals, dramatic and other
+entertainments, in which he himself joined and took a conspicuous part.
+
+His wise example has been generally followed by the different
+expeditions that subsequently wintered in the Arctic Regions.
+
+It is, in fact, very necessary to exercise both the physical and mental
+powers of the men during the dark months, for when once the ship has
+been safely established in winter quarters little work remains to be
+done. The officers are constantly employed in taking and working up
+observations in various branches of science; but the seaman has little
+to do but reflect on, and possibly brood over, his situation. It is,
+therefore, absolutely essential that some means should be devised to
+drive from him all unpleasant thoughts, and to make him feel that it is
+in his power to relieve the tedium of what would otherwise be a long and
+monotonous winter.
+
+Each ship had been provided, before leaving England, with a
+printing-press, and an officer and seaman[1] had been instructed in its
+use.
+
+As soon as it was set up and in working order, the following prospectus
+was issued by the "firm."
+
+
+  "THE ARCTIC PRINTING OFFICE.
+
+  "Messrs. Giffard and Symons beg to inform the public that they have
+  obtained--at an immense cost and with infinite trouble--possession of
+  the extensive premises, lately occupied by Mr. Clements Markham,
+  situated in Trap Lane, within half a minute's walk of the foremost
+  Quarter Deck Ladder, and easily accessible to all parts of the city.
+
+  "They have fitted up their new establishment--_regardless of
+  expense_--with all the _latest inventions_ and _newest machinery_, to
+  enable them to carry on the noble art of printing in a style and with
+  a rapidity hitherto quite unattainable.
+
+  "They therefore expect from the public that support and assistance
+  which it always gives to the _truly deserving_.
+
+  "Charges moderate. No credit given. All work required to be executed
+  to be paid for in advance.
+
+  "N.B. Everything undertaken promptly and correctly executed.
+
+    "H.M.S. 'Alert,'
+
+      "July 28, 1875."
+
+
+The "cost" and "trouble" alluded to in this production, that were
+expended in obtaining a convenient place in which to carry out the
+"noble art of printing," were caused by the fact that our photographers
+were equally anxious, with our printers, to possess themselves of the
+small cabin lately occupied by my cousin, and which is so
+grandiloquently alluded to as "extensive premises." In fact, for some
+little time it was a very sore and vexed question between those two
+celebrated and energetic firms. Trap Lane was so called in consequence
+of the after-hold being immediately outside the door of the cabin; and
+it occasionally served as a very disagreeable kind of man-trap when,
+through inadvertence, the hatch had not been replaced. As this part of
+the ship was, during the early part of her commission, in total
+darkness, owing to the piles of stores that were stowed in every
+available corner, it is no wonder that unsuspecting individuals should
+occasionally have fallen into the trap!
+
+Our printing-press was, it is almost needless to say, of great use to us
+during the winter; for, although it never printed very much for the
+public service, it was constantly called into requisition for the
+purpose of striking off programmes for our dramatic and other
+entertainments; and on such important events as birthdays and
+Christmas-day we indulged in the extravagance of printed bills of fare.
+On the whole the printing establishment on board the "Alert" tended very
+materially to beguile the tedium of our long nights, and must therefore
+be regarded as a decided success.
+
+Our school was opened on the 1st of November; from which date, until the
+reappearance of the sun, the attendance was regular and constant. It was
+composed of nearly the whole ship's company, and was divided into
+classes under the direct superintendence of the officers. Reading,
+writing, history, arithmetic, and navigation were the principal
+subjects in which the pupils were instructed.
+
+The school was held on the lower deck between eight and nine o'clock in
+the evening, the classes occupying the different mess-tables. Only two
+men out of the entire ship's company were unable to read and write, and
+these two men were placed in a class with two others, who were unable to
+read and write English.[2] This class was presided over by the doctor,
+who kindly volunteered to devote himself to the instruction of the
+"cripples," as they were facetiously called.
+
+As an illustration of the improvement which has taken place in the
+education of the men belonging to the Royal Navy during the last
+half-century, it may be mentioned that, whereas in Parry's time it was
+quite the exception to find a man that could read or write, with us the
+exception was entirely the other way, only two men out of fifty-five
+being ignorant of those accomplishments.
+
+Never were seen such painstaking and willing scholars as our men showed
+themselves to be. It is impossible to conceive a more orderly or
+well-conducted school, and it was a pleasure to the masters to devote
+their time to classes that evinced such an earnest desire of acquiring
+knowledge as did those on board the "Alert."
+
+Here might be observed a staid old seaman, whose great brawny hand
+appeared more suited to grasp the marline-spike than the pen, vainly
+endeavouring, with his elbows squared, his weather-beaten face close
+down over his work, and his tongue thrust out, to arrive at some
+satisfactory result in a simple addition sum. As a contrast to this, at
+the opposite table might be seen a smart young sailor, who had distanced
+all his competitors in arithmetic, asking abstruse questions in
+mensuration of such a nature as to make even his tutor feel
+uncomfortable!
+
+After the classes were dismissed, the men enjoyed an uninterrupted
+evening to themselves. Games of various descriptions, such as chess,
+bagatelle, draughts, and cribbage, had been purchased for their
+amusement before leaving England, and were in constant requisition
+during the winter. A large space on the starboard side of the deck,
+abaft the living deck, was allotted to the smokers, and here were held
+our dramatic and weekly entertainments on Thursdays. On Sundays Divine
+service was performed in the same place.
+
+Books were also a source of great amusement and interest to many of the
+men who were studiously inclined, as the well-thumbed volumes in our
+library soon testified. Several men wrote regular journals, which were
+even kept up by a few whilst they were sledging. Amongst the officers,
+chess, backgammon, and a rubber in the captain's cabin, formed the chief
+amusements. Although gambling is discountenanced (or ought to be) on
+board every well-regulated man of war, we so far forgot ourselves as to
+indulge largely in this vice. Seldom was a game played without a stake
+on the result! The stakes, too, were exorbitant, frequently as much as
+one lucifer match per game! It must be remembered that matches were very
+scarce and precious articles with us, and it was therefore a very high
+and valuable stake. On one occasion, one of my messmates was so rash as
+to wager a tallow-candle on the result of a game; but this was an offer
+of such magnitude that no one was sufficiently brave or sporting to
+accept it.
+
+Among the many valuable gifts showered upon us by kind and generous
+friends at home was an excellent piano, and fortunately amongst the
+officers there was a very talented musician, to whose good nature and
+willing efforts to please must be attributed many a pleasant hour, when
+our hearts were warmed by well-known airs bringing back happy home
+memories.
+
+Thursday evenings were always devoted to dramatic entertainments,
+magic-lantern exhibitions, instructive lectures, reading, and music both
+vocal and instrumental. These entertainments were kept up with the same
+spirit, and without a break, during the whole winter. They went by the
+name of our "Thursday Pops," and afforded much pleasure and amusement.
+They were announced to the general Arctic public by the following
+printed notice, which was widely circulated.
+
+
+  H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS.
+
+  On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of
+  popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings,
+  recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble
+  or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great
+  number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be
+  given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row.
+
+  PROGRAMME:
+
+  _Astronomical Lecture_ (with discussion)          Capt. NARES.
+  _Song_     "I knew that I was dreaming"              Mr. GOOD.
+  _Song_     "Watercresses"                         Mr. SHIRLEY.
+  _Reading_  "The Jumping Frog"                        Dr. MOSS.
+  _Song_     "An Englishman am I"                      Mr. CANE.
+  _Song_     "Broken down"                           Mr. BRYANT.
+  _Glee_     "The Wreath"   Messrs. ALDRICH, PULLEN, and RAWSON.
+  _Song_     "The White Squall"                     Mr. MASKELL.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o'clock
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+This was the first notification issued regarding our weekly
+entertainments, and, coming out a day or two before the performance, it
+naturally caused considerable excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic
+playgoing world!
+
+Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the legitimate drama,
+these entertainments were always preceded by a lecture delivered by one
+of the officers, on some interesting and at the same time instructive
+subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence of the audience. A
+list of the lectures so delivered cannot fail to be of interest.
+
+
+  1. On astronomy                     Capt. Nares.
+  2. A few words on magnetism         Lieut. Giffard.
+  3. On geology                       Capt. Feilden.
+  4. A few words on meteorology       Lieut. Aldrich.
+  5. A few words on steam             Mr. Wootton.
+  6. Mock moons under the microscope  Dr. Moss.
+  7. On light                         Lieut. Parr.
+  8. An historical lecture            Mr. White.
+  9. A few words on astronomy         Com. Markham.
+  10. Our food in the arctic regions  Dr. Colan.
+  11. A few words on arctic plants    Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+  12. On hydrostatics                 Lieut. May.
+  13. Sledging experiences            Capt. Nares.
+
+
+Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures, and I have not the
+slightest doubt that all would have done so had there been any more
+Thursdays to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship's
+company, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the readings and songs
+that followed, in the performance of which they all, with only one or
+two exceptions, took part.
+
+[Illustration: ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN AND THE
+WONDERFUL SCAMP."]
+
+The first real dramatic entertainment came off on the following
+Thursday. Our plan was for the men to act one piece and the officers
+another, and this was found to work very well. But the rehearsals were a
+difficulty, and we were frequently compelled to shut ourselves up in our
+own cabins in order to secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable
+us to become perfect in our different parts.
+
+The costumes were, of course, a subject of much discussion and deep
+interest. The making up of dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from
+musk-ox skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and employed minds
+and fingers that had hitherto been strangers to such occupations. Many
+were the needles broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before our
+ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts had to be converted into
+the robes of a lovely oriental princess; old uniform coats were
+beautified with spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable
+habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century; whilst a wicked
+magician, of the Hebrew persuasion, appeared in a coat of unmistakeable
+clerical cut.
+
+Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and the scenic arrangements
+under the direction of Moss, who was also the artist, could not be
+excelled. Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host in himself,
+adding materially to the success of the entertainments. In fact,
+officers and men vied with each other in their endeavours to promote
+amusement and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not of
+the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors fully compensated
+for this deficiency.
+
+We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured critics. These pests do
+not venture across the Arctic Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic
+Theatre (re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came with a firm
+resolve to please or be pleased. Acting upon this determination, our
+entertainments were bound to be successful. The following prologue,
+composed for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the opening of our
+theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of November, 1875.
+
+   "Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day,
+  We bid you welcome to our opening play:
+  You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear
+  Of scornful wit or captious critic here.
+  To-day we welcome you, and not to-night,
+  For all is noon with us--all summer bright;
+  And though the southern sun has ceased to pour
+  His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore--
+  Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold
+  The crystal corners of our hummocks bold;
+  We bear a warm soft light that never fades--
+  A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades;
+  All trustful of each other's love, we learn
+  With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn;
+  And suns may set, and twilights disappear--
+  They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer;
+  Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill
+  Our laughter glad--for laugh, brave boys, we will;
+  Kindling yet once again the genial glow
+  Of happy English homes on Arctic floe.
+
+   "Yet once again; for none would here forget
+  We are but sons of fathers living yet;
+  In work and play alike, we but renew
+  The deeds of men who taught us what to do.
+  And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar
+  To loftier flights than theirs who went before;
+  Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led,
+  In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread;
+  We love to read on history's faithful page,
+  Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage,
+  And boldly for our brave forerunners claim
+  An Arctic 'cast' already known to fame.
+
+   "Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say
+  What we have done to while your hours away.
+  Such as we have, we bring you of our best,
+  And to your kind forbearance leave the rest.
+  One only grief is ours, and you shall share
+  With us the burden of that gentle care.
+  One cherished form we miss--one touch alone--
+  One glance of love--one tender, thrilling tone.
+  Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle
+  The dear ones move, and minister, and smile.
+  We would not wish them here, but this we know,
+  Their thoughts are with us every step we go:
+  Their life sets northward o'er the cold, grey sea:
+  They live in wondering what our life may be;
+  And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul,
+  Till each has found its true magnetic pole.
+
+   "God bless and keep them in His mighty hand--
+  Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!"
+
+The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion the curtain rose,
+and the following programme, showing the plays that were acted and the
+cast of characters, was proceeded with.
+
+
+  THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE
+
+  Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, by the powerful
+  dramatic company of
+
+  HYPERBOREANS!
+
+  Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the
+  Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the
+  neighbourhood.
+
+  The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The
+  manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this
+  company, and has selected none but the very best _artistes_--the
+  ladies being from England--who, having numerous other engagements, can
+  remain for a short time only.
+
+  The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that
+  celebrated artist, Professor Moss, _must_ be acknowledged to be
+  unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order.
+
+  The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from
+  Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience.
+
+  At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce
+
+
+  THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL.
+
+  CHARACTERS:
+
+  Leander Hellespont    Mr. Stuckberry.
+  Mr. Counter Balance   Mr. Woolley.
+  Gratings (Steward)    Mr. Burroughs.
+  Mrs. Hellespont       Mdlle. Francombi.
+  Mrs. Veneer           Mdme. Maskelli.
+
+  Time                 The present day.
+  Scene                Saloon of a Boulogne steamer.
+
+  Interval of ten minutes.
+
+  During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will sing THE
+  IRISH BARBER.
+
+  After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque
+  entitled
+
+
+  VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH.
+
+  CHARACTERS:
+
+  Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the
+    original parient                                     Com. Markham.
+
+  Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original
+    lovier so gallant and gay                             Mr. Egerton.
+
+  William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young
+    apprentice, in desperate love with                     Mr. Rawson.
+
+  Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned
+    soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid Vilikins   Mdlle. Blanc.
+
+  Scene 1    Lawn of Gruffin's house.
+  Scene 2    Interior of Gruffin's house.
+  Scene 3    Lawn of Gruffin's house.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+
+This, the first appearance of the "Hyperboreans," was eminently
+successful, and elicited both laughter and applause from our very
+appreciative and demonstrative audience. Mademoiselle Blanc (Mr. White)
+made a fascinating little Dinah of six feet high, dressed in a Dolly
+Varden costume, whilst the other ladies were all that could be desired,
+and looked charming in their gorgeous silk and muslin dresses.
+
+In this respect we had a decided advantage over our consort, the
+"Discovery;" for her space on board being somewhat limited, the building
+of an ice theatre on the floe became necessary. Here, though the
+building was spacious and elegant, the temperature was rarely above
+zero! The ladies were therefore unable to indulge in low dresses, and a
+close observer might have detected underclothing composed of seal-skins
+beneath their otherwise gay and brilliant costumes.
+
+Occasionally, as the two following bills will show, we were agreeably
+surprised by the announcement of an entire change of programme.
+
+
+  H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  THURSDAY POPS.
+
+  December 16th, 1875.
+
+  Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!!
+  The Wizard of the North!!! [finger symbol] For one night only!!!!
+
+  PROGRAMME:
+
+  The entertainment will commence with
+  A FEW WORDS ON STEAM . . Mr. Wootton.
+  After which the only and veritable
+
+  WIZARD OF THE NORTH,
+
+  _en route_ to his hyperborean domicile,
+
+  will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions
+  and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful
+  and startling tricks:--
+
+  The vanishing egg.
+  The magic die.
+  The mysterious sixpence.
+  The magic shawl.
+  A startling surgical operation.
+  The marvellous watch trick.
+  Tricks with cards.
+  The magic bag trick.
+  The wonderful generating hat.
+  The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed with
+  an egg and silk handkerchief.
+  The inexhaustible bottle.
+  Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual,
+  preside at the orchestra.
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+  THURSDAY POPS.
+
+  H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  January 20th, 1876.
+
+  GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITION
+    and
+  MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT.
+
+  To commence with
+  A FEW WORDS ON ASTRONOMY, by Com. Markham,
+  Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern.
+  To be followed by a series of
+
+  DISSOLVING VIEWS,
+
+  Consisting of coloured representations of
+  Remarkable places in England,
+  Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc.
+  After which, the wonderful and startling adventures of
+
+  SINDBAD THE SAILOR
+
+  Will be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+  In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like and
+  entertaining display of various specimens in
+
+  NATURAL HISTORY;
+    and
+  Lieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touching
+  TALE OF A TUB.
+
+  To conclude with some highly amusing
+
+  COMIC SCENES.
+
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+These amusements may be considered light and frivolous, for men engaged
+in such a serious undertaking as that upon which we were embarked; still
+they all tended to one point--namely, the successful issue of the
+enterprise. For they kept the minds of the men employed with pleasant
+and agreeable thoughts, drove away all feelings of tedium and dulness,
+and thus assisted largely in promoting the general well-being and
+satisfactory sanitary condition of the expedition during the long night
+of nearly one hundred and fifty days. They effectually banished
+despondency, and assisted in making all hands cheerful, happy, and
+contented.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B.
+
+  [2] Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship's cook Dominick a
+    native of Gibraltar.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.
+
+
+  "Darkness, Light's eldest brother, his birthright
+   Claimed o'er this world, and to heaven chased light."
+
+    DONNE.
+
+         "Behold the wandering moon
+  Riding near her highest noon,
+  Like one that hath been led astray
+  Through the heavens' wide pathless way;
+  And oft as if her head she bowed,
+  Stooping through a fleecy cloud."
+
+    MILTON.
+
+The sun, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter, took its final
+departure on the 11th of October. From this date darkness gradually
+settled upon us, reaching its greatest intensity on the 21st of
+December. The type of a leading article in the _Times_ newspaper was
+taken by us as a test of the darkness. This was last read in the open
+air at midday on the 6th of November, and then only by a few with a
+great deal of difficulty. Many unsuccessful attempts were made on
+subsequent days. For a fortnight on either side of the 21st of December,
+the difference in the light between noon and midnight, on a clear day,
+was almost imperceptible, on a dull day it was quite inappreciable.
+Occasionally, at other times, at midday a faint luminous band might be
+observed along the southern horizon, but this was all the indication we
+had of the difference between day and night.
+
+We did not forget to celebrate on the 21st of October the Battle of
+Trafalgar, remembering that our great naval hero, Nelson,[1] was himself
+an old Arctic navigator. Our caterers provided us with a good dinner,
+and we were regaled, as a great indulgence on such an auspicious
+occasion, with an extra glass of wine! Two elaborate bills of fare were
+placed on the table, on one of which was very creditably sketched the
+"Alert" in winter quarters, and on the other was depicted the Battle of
+Trafalgar, with the motto on each, "England expects every man _this_ day
+to do his duty!" As there was a good dinner on the table, and the cold
+weather had made us wondrous hungry, we all responded nobly to the call!
+
+The 5th of November was another anniversary that could not pass
+unnoticed. On that evening the effigy of Guy Fawkes, ingeniously stuffed
+with squibs and seated on a cask well smeared with tar, was duly paraded
+round the upper deck, accompanied by the drums and fifes playing the
+"Rogue's March." It was then dragged, on a sledge, to the summit of a
+neighbouring hummock, and there solemnly burnt in presence of the whole
+ship's company. The band continued to play until the lips and fingers of
+the fifers became so frost-bitten that they were compelled to desist. It
+was a novel sight to see the dusky forms of the men, clad in seal-skins,
+dancing round a blazing fire on the top of an enormous mass of ice,
+whilst in the background was the ship with her masts and yards thickly
+coated with snow, and all her ropes clearly defined in the bright
+"bonfire light." A beautiful balloon, manufactured by Moss out of
+various coloured tissue-papers, also formed a prominent feature in the
+evening's display. Unfortunately, shortly after it was released, and
+before it had ascended to any very great height, it caught fire and was
+quickly consumed.
+
+It must not be supposed, because I enumerate all the little incidents
+connected with the amusements of the men, that other and more important
+work was neglected. On the contrary, the officers were unceasingly
+engaged during the winter in taking scientific observations in their
+respective departments; each officer being awarded some special subject.
+These included observations in astronomy, magnetism, electricity,
+meteorology, tides, spectrum analysis, observations for the detection of
+the polarization of light, chlorine, and specific gravity estimations.
+The pursuit of these investigations was at times a matter of great
+difficulty and extreme personal discomfort. It necessitated attendance
+in, and consequent exposure to, a temperature many degrees below zero,
+for several hours at a time. Under these circumstances it is no easy
+matter to handle delicate instruments, the manipulation of which, even
+in a temperate climate, requires the utmost care and caution. Made
+extremely brittle by the intense cold, a fall to any of the small metal
+movable parts of an instrument, such as the needles, would be fatal, yet
+it is almost impossible to touch them with the uncovered hand. The
+breath freezing on the arcs and verniers of the instruments during the
+time of observation, and on the glasses of the telescopes and mirrors,
+adds seriously to the difficulty; whilst the unequal contraction of
+different metals during intensely cold weather renders some of the
+instruments totally useless.
+
+Paraselenae, or mock moons, and auroras were of frequent occurrence, but
+none of the latter were sufficiently bright to call for special mention.
+These phenomena were always carefully examined, and the results
+recorded. As a rule the auroras consisted of faint coruscations darting
+across the heavens through the zenith, frequently in the form of an
+irregular arch terminating at each end on the horizon, and generally
+accompanied by various small luminous patches.
+
+The lunations of the moon were periods that were always looked forward
+to, and gladly welcomed, affording as they did, on clear bright days, a
+marked contrast to the gruesome darkness that generally prevailed. These
+clear days were not inappropriately termed "moony" ones, and were taken
+advantage of to perform all work that was considered necessary outside
+the ship.
+
+  "Rising in clouded majesty, at length
+   The moon unveiled her peerless light
+   And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw."
+
+Even on these bright silvery "moony" days it was unsafe to venture to
+any distance from the ship, as the sudden "veiling of her peerless
+light" by fog or clouds would produce total darkness, and so prevent the
+unfortunate wanderer from finding his way back.
+
+Great attention was paid to the important duty of seeing that a proper
+amount of exercise was taken by every soul on board. Open-air exercise
+was the more essential to health, because the air we breathed on board
+was not as pure as might be desired. This was inevitable, and the evil
+could only be partially counteracted by strict attention to the
+enforcing of outdoor exercise. A walk was constructed along the floe
+near the ship, for a distance of half a mile, marked at every two or
+three yards by small heaps of empty preserved meat tins, placed there by
+our industrious doctor. We were thus able to take our exercise along
+this promenade even on the darkest day, and the number of times that
+each individual walked up and down during the day was proudly recounted
+at the dinner-table. The darkness prevented walks to any greater
+distance for a considerable time. This then was our fashionable lounge,
+and was called the "Ladies' Mile" after the drive of the same name in
+Hyde Park.
+
+Our greatest annoyance was undoubtedly caused by the incessant drip in
+our cabins and elsewhere on board. So bad was it that all books had to
+be removed from the shelves, or from any position where they were in
+contact with the ship's side or the beams overhead. Especially over our
+beds did we suffer, and could only make certain of a dry night's rest by
+taking the precaution of nailing a blanket over the bed, or sloping one
+as an awning! No means that we could devise, although many experiments
+were tried on the living deck of the men as well as by the officers in
+their cabins, lessened the condensation from which we suffered, and
+which increased with any rise of temperature. One officer went so far as
+to light, and keep burning for a whole day, no less than fifty-two
+candles and one lamp in his cabin, hoping by these means to dry it
+thoroughly; but although it answered the purpose for a day or two, at an
+enormous cost, it was soon as bad as ever. During the time of his
+_illumination_ he succeeded in raising the temperature of his cabin
+from 40 deg. to 75 deg.! It is decidedly unpleasant, whilst writing, to have a
+continual stream of water pouring down upon your head and upon your
+paper; yet it is impossible to prevent this disagreeable drip.
+
+One of my messmates, more fortunate than his brother officers, had
+brought an umbrella with him, and this being spread over his chair
+protected him from the wet, and thus enabled him to read or write in
+comparative comfort, and, what was perhaps of greater consequence, with
+the perfect preservation of his temper.
+
+It may appear like affectation on my part when I say that any rise of
+temperature, during the winter, was viewed by us with dissatisfaction.
+Clad as we were to resist a cold of many degrees below zero, we were
+made absolutely uncomfortable by the _heat_ when the thermometer
+indicated any degree with a + sign. The only real good that we derived
+from such a rise of temperature was that we were able more freely to
+throw open the doors leading down to the lower deck, and thus admit a
+thorough circulation of fresh air; on one occasion during the month of
+November the temperature rose as high as 23 deg., and in December it reached
+the unprecedented height (for that season of the year) of 35 deg.! These, of
+course, were only occasional jumps, never of long duration, and were
+apparently produced by gales of wind from the S.W. Our experience at the
+"Alert's" winter quarters was that a breeze of wind raised the
+temperature, and that our coldest weather was always registered on
+perfectly still and clear days! During boisterous tempestuous weather
+the pack, although stationary, moaned and groaned weirdly, as if unhappy
+gnomes, imprisoned in the cold grasp of the frozen sea, were bewailing
+their hard fate, and pleading for release from their icy fetters. The
+young ice, too, in the vicinity of the ship cracked in a most alarming
+manner, each crack being accompanied by a sharp and loud report, and
+formed great fissures, leaving the surface, which had hitherto been
+smooth and level, rugged and uneven. Well might the "Ancient Mariner,"
+describing such a scene, say--
+
+  "It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
+  Like noises in a swound."
+
+This movement of the ice, slight as it was, exposed the "Alert" to great
+pressure, and although it did not amount to an actual "nip," nor did it
+in any way cause injury to the ship, it made her list over several
+degrees. Now, as we in the ward-room were on a limited allowance of
+wine, namely two glasses a day, this heeling over of the vessel caused
+us great annoyance, as it prevented our glasses from being filled to the
+brim, a custom that had been rigidly followed out since leaving England.
+This curtailment of our "rights," as we were pleased to call them, was
+very naturally regarded with a certain amount of disfavour. In order to
+lessen, if we could not entirely rectify this evil, we supplied
+ourselves with ingeniously made little wedges, which, being placed under
+the _lee_ side of the wine-glass, brought it so nearly upright that we
+succeeded in very nearly getting our full allowance.
+
+The birthdays of the officers were invariably celebrated by the best
+dinners that our indefatigable and energetic caterers could provide,
+always having in view the chance of the ship spending three winters in
+the Arctic Regions. As a special indulgence we were also allowed on
+these occasions a glass of port wine after dinner, a treat that we
+ordinarily had only twice a week. The composition of the _menus_ for
+these sumptuous feasts was always a subject of anxious care and
+forethought on the part of those who were entrusted with this important
+duty. Long and earnest were the consultations that were held, before one
+of them was satisfactorily composed and placed in the printer's hands.
+
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+  MENU.
+
+  POTAGES.
+  Mulligatawny.
+
+  POISSONS.
+  Pegouse a la Couverture de Laine.[2]
+
+  ENTREES.
+  Petits Pates d'Homard a la Chasse.[3]
+  Rognons a la Pain roti.
+
+  RELEVES.
+  Mouton roti a l'Anglais. Tongues on Gimbals.
+
+  ENTREMETS.
+  Poudin aux Raisins.
+  Blanc-manger a la Hummock.
+  Petits Pates d'Hahis a la place d'Eccleston.
+
+  DESSERT.
+  Poudin glace a la Hyperborean.
+  Figues. Noce.
+  Gateau a l'lrlandais.
+  Cafe et Liqueur a la Jesson.
+
+    _November 11th_, 1875.
+
+
+As we were living in a land in which little could be obtained in the way
+of change, the object was to diversify as much as possible the names of
+the same viands, so as to make the guests believe that the dinners were
+entirely different. The names given to some of the dishes were decidedly
+original. On the previous page is the first _printed_ bill of fare that
+was placed on the table.
+
+Shortly after the ship had been established in winter quarters, a
+careful calculation was made of the amount of fresh meat we possessed.
+
+By fresh meat, I mean meat of the musk-oxen and sheep that we had
+killed, and not the fresh _preserved_ meat, of which we had an ample
+supply. It was found we had sufficient to yield fourteen meals, at the
+rate of one pound per man per meal. It was, therefore, determined to
+issue a fresh meat meal twice every three weeks, and, at the doctor's
+recommendation, this was done on two consecutive days. In his opinion
+this method of apportioning it was the most conducive to health.
+
+Beer, of which we had been provided with ten hogsheads specially brewed
+for us by Allsopp, was issued, so long as a cask was "on tap," twice a
+week. On these days half the allowance of spirits only was served out.
+
+On Sundays Divine service was regularly performed between decks; the
+morning and evening services being read on alternate Sundays.
+
+Prayers were read daily on the upper deck. The Holy Communion was
+celebrated on the first Sunday in every month. Considering the small
+number of men from among whom the choir was selected, and the
+necessarily slight amount of practice they could have, the singing at
+church was very creditable. Aldrich played the accompaniment on a
+harmonium that we had obtained from the ward-room officers of the
+"Valorous," before parting company with that ship at Disco. The credit
+of originating and instructing the choir was, of course, due to Pullen
+and Aldrich.
+
+Medical inspections were held regularly on the first day of each month,
+when every officer and man was minutely questioned and examined. Nothing
+could be more satisfactory than the medical report of the sanitary
+condition of the men at the conclusion of these examinations.
+
+The amount of compulsory open-air exercise that had to be taken by each
+man was two hours a day; but most of the men, that is to say all the
+working hands exclusive of cooks, stewards, and servants, were
+invariably at work, _outside_ the ship, for at least five hours a day. A
+very favourite and at the same time healthy pastime of the men in their
+leisure hours, when the moon was up, was that of "tabogganing." This
+consisted in dragging one of our small satellites or dog-sledges to the
+summit of a neighbouring hill, and then coming down, two or three on the
+sledge, at the rate of about sixty or seventy miles an hour! The men
+enjoyed this amazingly, and used to race one sledge against another. As
+they were not very expert in the management of these "taboggans," and
+had little confidence in their own steering, they would, when they saw
+there was a chance of their sledge coming to grief, tumble out and roll
+for some distance after it. Fortunately the snow was soft and they never
+came to harm.
+
+Rawson, who had acquired a knowledge of this sport in Canada, was the
+first to introduce it in the far north. The dexterity with which he
+managed his "taboggan" was marvellous, and he would frequently,
+accompanied by one of his messmates, come down the steep side of one of
+the highest floe-bergs in the vicinity of the ship. Poor "Nellie" could
+never understand whence the motive power of these machines was derived,
+and used to rush round barking at us in a frantic manner when we first
+started, until left far behind plunging in the soft snow and struggling
+to keep pace with us.
+
+It was wonderful how this dog withstood the cold. The colder the day the
+more she appeared to enjoy it, dashing about in the soft fine snow and
+picking up pieces of ice in her mouth for the purpose of having them
+thrown for her. It must be remembered that for any one of us to touch a
+piece of ice with the uncovered hand in a temperature 50 deg. below zero
+would have been a very serious matter; yet Nellie was able, in the same
+temperature, to carry pieces of ice, or bits of metal or stone, in her
+mouth for hours together. The only cause of annoyance to the poor old
+doggie was the caking or balling of the snow between her toes, which
+used to trouble her a good deal. To obviate this, four little flannel
+moccasins were made for her feet; but, although she enjoyed wearing them
+and seemed to be proud of her appearance in them, they had to be
+discontinued, as we were afraid that the tying them on sufficiently
+tight to prevent their coming off might stop the circulation of the
+blood and thus produce frost-bite. On the whole, however, Nellie throve
+wonderfully well, and until the following summer enjoyed perfect health.
+She was my constant companion wherever I went, attending me during my
+walks, and lying curled up at my feet in the observatory during the long
+hours that I was employed taking magnetic observations. She always slept
+in an arm-chair in my cabin, being provided with her own little blanket,
+on which her name was embroidered.
+
+[Illustration: NELLIE.]
+
+Before concluding this chapter it will be as well to relate an
+interesting and rather curious incident connected with one of our Eskimo
+dogs.
+
+In Aldrich's sledge journey to Cape Joseph Henry, one of his dogs
+(Sallie), being attacked with a fit, had to be cast off from the team
+and was no more seen by him during that journey.
+
+On crossing the floe with my sledge party about a week after, we were
+suddenly joined, to our great surprise, by an Eskimo dog which the men
+readily recognized as Sallie; all our attempts to make her approach were
+unsuccessful, although she followed us at a distance during the day and
+hovered round our camp, picking up scraps of pemmican that had been
+purposely left out for her during the night. She eluded all attempts at
+being caught, running away on the ice and disappearing amongst the
+hummocks. She followed us faithfully, at a distance, until the day we
+returned to the ship, when she vanished altogether. She was last seen on
+the floe about four miles from the "Alert."
+
+Amid the many preparations for the winter, poor Sallie was forgotten and
+had almost passed out of recollection altogether, when one day in
+December, more than _two_ months after she had been last seen, a strange
+dog was observed hovering round the ship. This strange dog proved to be
+the long-lost Sallie!
+
+No amount of coaxing would persuade her to come near us, and she was
+eventually driven off by the other Eskimo dogs, and took refuge on the
+pack. On the following day she again made her appearance, and this time
+we succeeded in getting her on board and into a place of safety. She was
+terribly thin and emaciated; but being well cared for and attended to,
+she rapidly picked up, and was eventually the strongest and best dog in
+our whole team.
+
+The question as to how she had existed during her long absence from the
+ship was a difficult one to solve. At first it was surmised that she had
+attached herself to a pack of wolves; but this idea was scouted, as no
+tracks had been seen to lead us to believe that these animals existed in
+our neighbourhood. It is not probable that she obtained anything from
+the ship during the time she was missing, or that she picked up scraps
+from the other dogs, for on her appearance she was at once driven away
+by her old companions. The only probable conclusion that we could arrive
+at was that she had supported life by hunting and feasting on lemmings,
+for the traces of these little animals were the only indications that we
+had of the existence, outside our own circle, of animal life.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Nelson served as a midshipman on board the "Carcass," in Captain
+    Phipps' North Polar Expedition in 1773.
+
+  [2] Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel.
+
+  [3] The name of the cook was Hunt.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.
+
+
+  "So now is come our joyful'st feast,
+     Let every man be jolly,
+   Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest,
+     And every post with holly;
+   Now all our neighbours' chimneys smoke,
+     And Christmas blocks are burning;
+   Their ovens they with baked meats choke,
+     And all their spits are turning.
+   Without the door let sorrow lie,
+     And if, for cold, it hap to die,
+   We'll bury't in a Christmas pye,
+     And ever more be merry."
+
+     WITHER.
+
+On the 21st of December the sun reached its greatest southern
+declination. We felt on that day that we had cause for rejoicing. The
+sun had arrived at the limit of its southern journey, and now it would,
+every day, be travelling to the northward, and therefore in our
+direction. So rapidly had the time passed that Christmas stole upon us
+unawares, and we were only reminded of its approach by the strong odour
+of good things being cooked that pervaded the whole ship, bringing to
+our minds the fact that preparations for its celebration had actually
+commenced. Nothing was omitted that could possibly add to the comfort
+and enjoyment of the men on this day. The ship's stores were thrown
+open and they were allowed to provide themselves with an unlimited
+amount, so long as there was no waste, of flour, raisins, sugar, and
+preserved fruits, and in addition to the regular daily allowance of
+meat, a pound of musk-ox beef and a pound of mutton were issued to each
+man. For the two previous days, during which they had been disturbed as
+little as possible, the men were engaged in making the necessary
+preparations for spending their Christmas as happily and as socially as
+if they were in a more genial climate. It must be remembered that this
+was a day looked forward to by all, not only in the light of a festival,
+but because it was also regarded as the turning-point of the winter.
+After Christmas every day would bring us nearer to the sun, whose bright
+face we all so ardently wished to welcome once more. Moreover, Christmas
+day, to a community situated as we were, "away from the busy haunts of
+men," must always be regarded as an epoch, a day looked forward to, and
+when passed, a day from which many events are dated.
+
+In addition to the supplies afforded by the stores of the ship, we were
+largely indebted to kind, and in several instances unknown, friends and
+well-wishers to the expedition in England for many little articles that
+assisted to amuse our men during this festive season. Amongst these the
+kind and generous ladies of Queenstown must not be forgotten. These
+ladies had, previous to our departure from England, formed themselves
+into a Committee, and had sent to each ship a large Christmas-box
+containing many useful, and indeed valuable, articles. Each officer
+received some little package, personally directed to himself, and every
+man was presented with some pretty little Christmas-box. Nothing could
+have been more happily thought of, and it would have done the fair
+donors good could they but have witnessed the pleasure testified by the
+recipients at the distribution of the contents of their case.
+
+I must not omit to mention another Christmas-box, kindly sent by Mr.
+Mason, the inventor, I believe, of "Somebody's Luggage," and containing
+all sorts of amusing little articles suitable either for decorating a
+table or a Christmas-tree.
+
+Another act of kindness on the part of our friends in England was also
+much appreciated by both officers and men. A young lady, a relative of
+one of the officers, had taken the trouble to direct a letter to each
+individual on board, containing a beautiful Christmas card. To make it
+appear as if they had been actually delivered through the post, a
+second-hand postage-stamp had been affixed to each envelope. Her kind
+forethought afforded a great deal of pleasure to the recipients of those
+letters.
+
+Christmas eve was spent very merrily by all on board the "Alert." The
+piano was carried out from the ward-room to the main deck, where dancing
+was kept up with great animation until eleven o'clock! It is wonderful
+how fond the English man-of-war's man is of dancing. So long as he can
+obtain music and a partner to dance with, without regard to sex, he will
+continue to fling his legs about with great vigour until compelled by
+heat and exhaustion to desist! The men on board the "Alert" were no
+exception to this rule; one and all joined in the dance, and seemed
+thoroughly to enjoy it. Poor Aldrich did not get a moment's peace. As
+soon as one tune was finished, he was called upon for another. Polka,
+waltz, and galop followed each other in rapid succession, officers and
+men joining alike in the general hilarity of the evening.
+
+Christmas morning broke cold and clear; its stillness occasionally
+interrupted by light puffs of wind from the S.W. Divine service was
+performed in the forenoon, the pulpit being decorated with branches of
+artificial holly. When church was over, a little exercise was taken on
+the "ladies' mile." On my return I found my cabin brightened up by small
+twigs of variegated holly, a delicate and touching attention on the part
+of some of my messmates, who had provided themselves with artificial
+branches of this plant before leaving England. At one o'clock,
+everything being in readiness, the officers were invited to inspect the
+lower deck. Preceded by our drum and fife band playing the "Roast Beef
+of Old England," we paid a formal visit to the men's quarters. The lower
+deck was beautifully and tastefully decorated with flags, coloured
+tinsel paper, and artificial flowers, whilst the different mess tables
+were literally groaning under the weight of the good cheer that adorned
+them. Everything had a cheerful and comfortable appearance, and, above
+all, the radiant healthy-looking faces, beaming with pleasure, that so
+cordially and heartily greeted us with the compliments of the season. Of
+course, dancing was the prominent feature of the afternoon, Aldrich,
+with his usual good nature, being again victimized at the piano. At six
+o'clock, for on such an important occasion we departed from our usual
+dinner hour of half-past two, we all assembled in the ward-room for
+dinner, and great was our astonishment and delight at seeing in the
+centre of our table a magnificent bouquet of artificial flowers. This
+was, I believe, the happy thought of a lady who had recently been
+admitted into the circle of "Arctic relations." The bright-coloured
+flowers, reminding us of home associations, were more thoroughly
+appreciated than even the good dinner which was provided for us, for
+which reference must be made to the following _menu_, composed by
+Pullen:--
+
+H.M.S. "ALERT."
+
+  A la Julienne soup is the _potage_ we favour,
+    And soles fried _au naturel_ serve us for fish;
+  We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour--
+    Beef garnished with mushrooms--a true English dish.
+
+  Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys,
+    Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by,
+  Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dallies
+    With a small slice of ham--then gives in with a sigh.
+
+  For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us,
+    And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow;
+  While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us:
+    Alas! are we equal to meeting them now?
+
+  So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden,
+    The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear;
+  And may we and our consort sail home richly laden
+    With the spoils of success, ere December next year!
+
+In addition to the bill of fare, the annexed poem by the same
+accomplished author was printed and placed in front of each member of
+the mess.
+
+  On this glad Christmas Day,
+    While happy bells are flinging
+  O'er bright lands far away
+    Their burst of joyous singing,
+  We love to think that each sweet lay,
+    That sets those echoes ringing,
+  Hushed music from our icy bay
+    To loving hearts is bringing.
+
+  Hushed music that shall tell
+    How He has left us never,
+  In whose dear sight we dwell,
+    Who aids our high endeavour;
+  Who, from the hearts that love us well,
+    Our short lives will not sever,
+  For whose good gifts our breasts shall swell
+    With grateful praise for ever!
+
+Our drum and fife band, of their own accord, played several airs very
+creditably during our dinner, which was brought to a conclusion by a few
+short speeches. In the evening dancing was again kept up with great
+animation; every one appeared cheerful and happy. In no region of the
+world could this Christmas-day have been spent with more mirth and more
+genuine fellowship than it was by the little band of explorers, so far
+removed from all home ties and associations, who were celebrating it
+that day, in a latitude farther north than man had ever before
+penetrated.
+
+On reviewing the events of the year we felt we had much to be thankful
+for. We had succeeded, in spite of many dangers and difficulties, in
+establishing our ship in winter quarters in a position farther north
+than even some of the most sanguine had, at one time, dared to hope. The
+English flag had been displayed, both by sea and by land, in a higher
+northern latitude than any flag had ever before been seen, and although
+our prospects of further exploration in a northerly direction were
+somewhat damped, owing to the land trending west, we knew that there was
+much to be done during the ensuing year in defining and exploring the
+coasts to the east and to the west. A wide field of exploration was
+still before us, and there was much useful work to be done during the
+ensuing spring in a hitherto unknown region.
+
+Half our winter had passed, and although the long dark night of one
+hundred and fifty days might, by some unacquainted with the many
+resources we possessed to while away the time, be considered dull and
+monotonous, monotony and despondency were unknown on board the good ship
+"Alert." We all looked forward with eager hope to the return of the sun,
+strong in our determination to do our best, and with our appetites for
+sledging considerably whetted by the initiation we had received during
+the autumn.
+
+Hitherto we had, with one exception, enjoyed perfect immunity from
+sickness, and we all thought that if there was no cold weather in the
+Arctic Regions to produce frost-bites, the appointments of medical
+officers to the expedition, so far as their professional qualifications
+were concerned, were undoubted sinecures. The frost-bites had, however,
+been very severe, and at the end of the year there still remained on the
+sick list four of the poor fellows who had been attacked during the
+autumn sledging, three of whom had suffered amputation of the big toe.
+
+Compelled to keep to their beds, the winter to them must have, indeed,
+been wearisome; but no word of complaint was ever uttered by them, and
+they appeared as cheerful and in as good spirits as the best of us.
+Their only distress was the idea of not being allowed, in consequence of
+their misfortune, to participate in the spring campaign. The sequel,
+however, proved, although they took no part in the _extended_ sledging
+operations, how well and how nobly they worked in their brave endeavours
+to assist and succour their poor, weak, and stricken comrades; but we
+must not anticipate.
+
+We had hitherto experienced, in comparison with what we had been led to
+expect, tolerably mild weather, as Arctic winter weather goes; and the
+cold had not been so severe as we anticipated; -46.5 deg. or 781/2 deg. below
+freezing-point being, up to the end of the year, the minimum temperature
+registered. This was by no means an uncomfortable temperature, although
+superficial frost-bites, especially on the noses and cheekbones, were of
+constant occurrence. Solitary walks were, of course, prohibited; and it
+was particularly impressed upon every one that, when they were absent
+from the ship, they were carefully to watch their companions' faces in
+order to detect a frost-bite at once, and so be able to restore
+circulation before permanent injury could be sustained. Face-covers were
+occasionally worn, but were not in very great favour. They have the
+disadvantage of freezing to the face, which they also conceal, and so
+prevent a comrade from seeing and reporting a frost-bite.
+
+In the neighbourhood of our winter quarters there had, up to this time,
+been a remarkable absence of all animal life. Occasionally the
+quarter-masters would report that during the night they heard the
+howling of wolves in the distance, and one night the Eskimo dogs, who
+were lying curled up in the snow outside the ship, made a sudden rush
+for the gangway, and evinced great eagerness to get on board. This
+stampede was attributed to the presence of wolves, but no tracks of
+these animals had been seen to justify our arriving at such a
+conclusion. With the exception sometimes of a peculiar, whistling,
+moaning sound, caused by the rise and fall of the ice with the tide, the
+stillness of the nights was undisturbed.
+
+We had long been aware that the ice of which this part of the polar sea
+was composed consisted of huge massive floes, not of a few seasons'
+formation, but the creation of ages, real thick-ribbed ice. Except along
+the west coasts of Banks and Prince Patrick Islands, no such ice had
+ever before been met with in the Arctic Regions. It therefore became
+desirable to apply to it a special name by which it might be
+provisionally known. After some discussion, Captain Nares decided upon
+calling the frozen sea, on the southern border of which we were
+wintering, the "Palaeocrystic Sea," the name being derived from the two
+Greek words [Greek: palaios] ancient, and [Greek: krystallos] ice. This
+term was used for the great frozen polar sea during the remaining period
+of our detention on its borders.[1]
+
+Atmospheric phenomena, such as halos and paraselenae, were by no means
+uncommon, and occasionally we were astonished by the heavenly bodies
+behaving, as it appeared to us, in a very eccentric manner. On one
+occasion the star Aldebaran was reported to be jumping about in a
+strange way. Such unusual behaviour on the part of a star brought us all
+up in the cold, and there, sure enough, was Aldebaran doing exactly what
+was reported, and altogether conducting itself in a very erratic and
+unstarlike manner. The illusion was caused by the fall of minute, and
+imperceptible, frozen particles; but it was some time before we could
+satisfy ourselves that the star was not actually in motion, many of the
+men remaining to this day unconvinced. One of our Scotch quarter-masters
+informed me, some time afterwards, that it was a "vara curious star;"
+and although the laws of refraction were explained to him, he still
+persisted in his belief that the movement of the star was due to itself,
+and would not believe in any other explanation.
+
+At the beginning of the winter, shortly after the return of the sledge
+parties, the doctor and myself being busily engaged in the construction
+of a snow house on shore, observed a most brilliant meteor fall,
+apparently about a quarter of a mile from us, its course being from S.E.
+to N.W. It was of a bright emerald-green colour, and was falling so
+quietly and slowly that we at first thought it was a rocket, or Roman
+candle, let off by some one astern of the ship, it being distinctly
+visible for many seconds. When it arrived, in our estimation, at about
+forty feet from the ground, it suddenly burst, displaying bright red and
+green colours. It was seen by others, from different points of
+observation; all being unanimous in their opinion that it was one of the
+most beautiful sights, of the kind, they had ever witnessed.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] The word may not be formed on strictly accurate principles, but
+    it is sufficiently expressive of the fact it is intended to
+    represent, and it is now endeared to us by association and by common
+    usage while serving in the far north.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+A HAPPY NEW YEAR.
+
+
+  The old year dies on southern skies,
+    And leafless woods that moan and quiver;
+  The shadows creep o'er ocean deep,
+    And silent lake and rustling river;
+  And all is gloom around the tomb
+    Of wasted moments, lost for ever.
+
+  The new year gleams on silver streams,
+    Where meadows smile in sunlit glances;
+  The dark shades flee across the sea,
+    And the wild wavelet laughs and dances;
+  And all is bright where new-born light
+    Brings hope to man and golden chances.
+
+  O happy year! that tells us here
+    The same sweet, ever-welcome story,
+  That soon, so soon! one radiant noon
+    Shall plunge in light yon summits hoary,
+  That point our way through endless day
+    To joyous triumphs, home, and glory.
+
+    H. W. PULLEN,
+
+    H.M.S. "Alert,"
+
+      _January 1st_, 1876.
+
+The above lines, composed by the poet laureate of the expedition,
+greeted us at the breakfast table on the morning of the 1st of January,
+1876.
+
+The New Year was ushered in with every demonstration of joy, gratitude,
+and hope by our little party assembled together, so far removed from the
+civilized world. We were joyful because a new year had dawned upon us
+in undiminished numbers; grateful for the many mercies that had been
+vouchsafed to us, and hopeful concerning our future prospects. We could
+not look back with regret upon the past year, for to us it had indeed
+been eventful; but officers and men looked forward to the coming year
+with feelings of confidence, resolutely determined faithfully to perform
+their duties, placing their trust in Him who had hitherto so well
+watched over and protected them, and firm in their reliance on His
+continued aid and support.
+
+It is generally the custom in the navy to strike the bell sixteen times
+at midnight on New Year's eve--eight bells for the old year and eight
+bells for the new! Of course with us this custom was rigidly adhered to;
+but not only did we strike sixteen bells at _our_ midnight, but we also
+struck the same number at six minutes to eight, which, allowing for the
+exact difference in time, would be midnight in England, so that we had
+at least the satisfaction of knowing that our bell was being employed in
+the same way as many others in the navy at the same time.
+
+Perhaps it may be interesting to my readers to know exactly how we
+received the New Year! I will, therefore, quote my remarks as they
+appear, word for word, in my journal.
+
+"At five minutes to twelve, we all congregated round the ward-room
+table, on which was spread a sumptuous cold collation, consisting of a
+_real_ English ham, Bologna sausages, brawn, and sardines. Strong
+whiskey punch, in the brewing of which all had a share, was ladled out
+to each, and from the encomiums which were passed on its flavour and
+strength, the old proverb that 'too many cooks spoil the broth' was
+completely upset. As the bell struck, a neat little speech was made by
+our orator the doctor, the compliments of the season were wished to all,
+nor were those at home forgotten, our glasses were emptied, and then in
+true Highland fashion, with one foot on the table, the other on our
+chair, and with hands joined, we all sang 'Auld lang syne,' the drum and
+fife band accompanying us outside, the song being taken up by the men on
+the lower deck, who, true to their tastes, had been '_dancing_ out the
+old year.' Such was the manner in which the year 1876 was inaugurated in
+latitude 82 deg. 27' N., where no human being had ever welcomed a new year
+before."
+
+A more cheerful, happy, and contented party it would be difficult to
+imagine anywhere; utterly oblivious of the solemn darkness and desolate
+sterility that prevailed without, they thought only of the "joyous
+triumph" that they hoped to achieve, and then of their return to old
+England. Everything wore a cheerful aspect. No leader could have more
+reason to be satisfied with the health and spirits of those under his
+command, than Captain Nares on the 1st of January, 1876.
+
+On that morning, at the usual monthly medical inspection, he had the
+satisfaction of receiving the report that the men were in a better state
+of health than they were at the last examination. Appetites, which
+during mid-winter had been waning, had gradually returned. So contented
+were we, that many were actually pitying our friends in England, because
+they were unable to enjoy such delicious musk-ox beef as was put on our
+table for dinner on New Year's day!
+
+Our first crop of mustard and cress was gathered on the 2nd of January.
+It was not an abundant one, but there was sufficient to give a mouthful
+to each person, and what little we had was certainly very refreshing. It
+had grown up devoid of all colour, and had a very _washed-out_
+appearance. The garden was a small shallow box kept close to the
+ward-room stove. In consequence of the success attending this--our
+first--attempt at agriculture, several gardens were started, and we were
+enabled to issue, at different times, small quantities of this excellent
+antiscorbutic; though how far the loss of colour detracts from its
+medicinal qualities is a difficult problem to solve. Although the colour
+was absent, the fresh _taste_ appeared to remain, there being no
+perceptible difference between that grown on board the "Alert," and the
+same reared in the heat of the sun in more favoured climes. As a rule,
+the best crops were those grown on a blanket.
+
+On the 8th and 9th of January we experienced a heavy gale of wind from
+the southward. It was impossible, whilst it lasted, to venture outside
+the ship, even to take the thermometric observations, although they
+could be registered only a few yards from the gangway: they had
+therefore to be discontinued during the time the gale lasted. It blew
+for forty-eight hours with relentless fury, when it exhausted itself in
+fitful gusts, more or less strong, until it abated altogether. The
+housing over the ship suffered sadly from this storm, several tons
+weight of snow having collected on it from the tremendous drift, in some
+places breaking it through, and in others "bagging" it down so as to
+render walking underneath an impossibility.
+
+All our outdoor establishments were completely buried with snow, and we
+were compelled to send parties of men to excavate them, in order to
+effect an entrance at all. In fact, our men were for some time engaged
+in repairing the ravages of the storm. The accumulation of drift on the
+weather side of the ship was enormous, and took the form of a perfectly
+solid snow-wreath. This was caused by the eddying wind driving the snow
+from the side of the vessel to a distance of about four or five feet,
+where it settled, resembling a great frozen wave, whose curling crest
+was fully seven feet in height.
+
+On the opposite, or lee, side of the ship the ice had cracked, leaving
+several large fissures, through which the water oozed and flowed over.
+The spring tides had also caused the ship to rise in her icy cradle, the
+greater part of the banking having, in consequence, slipped through
+between the edge of our dock and the ship's side and disappeared. This
+also had to be rectified. Our gale of wind had undoubtedly been
+productive of much extra work, irrespective of the anxiety and the by no
+means pleasant time spent, during its duration: for as yet our
+protecting bergs had not inspired us with absolute confidence regarding
+the shelter they might afford in such tempestuous weather as we had
+recently experienced. So well, however, did they answer our purpose
+during this gale, that all cause for anxiety was from that time removed,
+and for the future we felt as safe and as secure as if we had been
+frozen up in a well-sheltered and land-locked harbour.
+
+When the wind was at its height, a piece of musk-ox meat, suspended in
+the mizzen-rigging, was blown down, and was, of course, at once assailed
+by the Eskimo dogs who had been admitted into the ship during the gale.
+Fortunately it was frozen so hard that they were unable to get their
+teeth through it, and although it had been some time in their clutches
+before it was rescued, little loss was sustained.
+
+At noon on the 17th of January, a faint tinge of crimson, blended with a
+slight silvery streak of twilight, could be observed in the southern
+horizon, and although it was only of short duration, it became more
+decided and lasted for a longer time on each successive day. These
+bright harbingers of returning light were anxiously watched, and gladly
+were they welcomed as they assumed a more decided appearance.
+
+Although there was no despondency or depression of spirits on board the
+"Alert," the monotony of the long dark nights could not but be felt, and
+we all eagerly looked forward to the time when the glorious rays from
+our bright, though long-absent, sun should again crown the summits of
+the distant hills with their sparkling and joyous light. All on board
+were interested for different reasons in the return of the sun: the
+sledge travellers, because it would bring light and heat to cheer and
+sustain them on their lonesome and arduous journeys, which they knew
+would be commenced as soon after its return as possible: the sportsmen
+regarded it as the precursor of game; and all hailed with delight the
+symbol of returning day and the assurance of the approaching termination
+of their long dark night. By the 1st of February, those gifted with
+sharp eyesight were just able to decipher a leading article in the
+_Times_ on the floe at noon. It was remarked that one of our officers
+afflicted with short-sightedness was able, by the dim twilight, to read
+not only with greater ease and accuracy than others, but also some days
+before them, and therefore by a dimmer light.
+
+We had hitherto had no exceptionally severe weather; but during the
+latter part of January we experienced a foretaste of the intense cold
+that we were a month later destined to endure. With a temperature 50 deg.
+below zero, it is necessary, when exposed to it, to keep the body in
+constant motion, otherwise a frost-bite will imperceptibly seize hold of
+one. On first emerging into this temperature a slight difficulty of
+breathing would be experienced, and tears would be involuntarily brought
+to the eyes, which immediately became small nodules of ice, and as such
+had to be extracted. This is hardly to be wondered at when it is
+remembered that we had to undergo a transition of temperature from our
+living-deck to the open air of over 100 deg.! In spite of this cold,
+however, we were not much troubled with frost-bites, except on the face.
+Our dearly bought experience, during the autumn sledging, will account
+for our comparative immunity from these very troublesome and painful
+attacks.
+
+Apropos of frost-bites it is related, that one of the members of the
+expedition, on getting up in the morning, during the cold weather,
+found, to his horror, that one of his toes and a part of his foot were
+quite black. Thinking he was severely frost-bitten, and wishing at once
+to assure himself of the fact by the only practical method that
+suggested itself at the time, he seized a pin, and made a furious dig at
+the supposed injured part. He very quickly found that, although
+discoloured, it was not totally devoid of all sensation, nor was the
+circulation of blood in any way impeded. The fact was, that his servant,
+on the previous day, had patched up his sock with a piece of fearnought,
+and, in order to assimilate the colour, had inked it over--which fully
+accounted for his terrible frost-bite!
+
+It was our invariable custom to keep the hair, especially that growing
+on the face, as close as possible. In spite, however, of this
+precaution, it was impossible to prevent the breath from freezing on the
+short stubbly beard and moustache, which would soon be converted into a
+perfect mass of ice--a decidedly uncomfortable appendage. On returning
+from our short walks, we frequently found our cap, comforter, and collar
+of the coat frozen into one solid and compact mass.
+
+Occasionally an amusing incident occurred to vary the sameness of our
+daily life, as the following story will show. During the darkest part of
+the winter one of the magnetic observers had occasion to visit the
+observatory. Taking his lantern, and accompanied by Nellie, he reached
+the door, which to his surprise was open. Supposing it to have been
+blown open by the wind, for it had been blowing very hard the previous
+night, he entered the long tunnel leading up to the Unifilar House.
+Before he had gone far a strong animal smell assailed his olfactory
+organs; this, with the fact of Nellie exhibiting great restlessness,
+induced him to examine the ground, when he clearly detected the traces
+of some animal, but of what description he was unable to decide.
+
+He was now placed in rather an unpleasant position, for to advance
+head-foremost through a narrow passage into a small house in which a
+great Polar bear might have established himself, was to say the least a
+rash act; yet he was unwilling to return on board, and probably be for
+ever after chaffed by his messmates for being frightened at nothing.
+Putting on a bold front, he determined at all hazards to push on, and
+ascertain what the animal was that had dared to violate the sacred
+precincts of the observatory. As he advanced the peculiar odour became
+stronger, and he was sorely tempted to retreat, thinking discretion was
+the better part of valour. Arriving at the entrance to the house,
+however, he plucked up courage, and with the lantern well in front of
+him, and Nellie close at his heels, he dashed in, and there, lying down
+and looking almost as frightened as himself, was, not the great white
+bear that he expected to meet, but "Bruin," the largest of our Eskimo
+dogs, who, during the boisterous weather of the preceding night, had
+sought shelter in our observatory, and had no doubt found it a very snug
+and comfortable place, infinitely preferable to the bleak and exposed
+floe. It was a long time before the place was rid of the unpleasant
+smell peculiar to Eskimo dogs.
+
+As the light increased day by day, the men were employed in re-embarking
+the stores and provisions landed, and in demolishing "Markham Hall." It
+was necessary to accomplish as much as possible, as Captain Nares well
+knew, before the departure of the sledging parties, for so few men would
+be left on board that little could be done during their absence, and
+there was no saying how soon after their return the ship would be able
+to break out of winter quarters. The Eskimo dogs were also now regularly
+fed and attended to. Hitherto they had been left to do pretty much as
+they liked, and their regular meals during the winter had been few, and
+served at uncertain times. Notwithstanding the small amount of food that
+was issued to them, they were all in capital condition, in fact a little
+too "fleshy" for dragging purposes, as they always received the scraps
+and surplus food from the allowance of the ship's company, and this was
+more than enough to keep a much larger pack of dogs than we possessed.
+They were also regularly exercised in dragging a light sledge, their
+day's work increasing as the days lengthened.
+
+We could not but notice the sallowness of complexion which the returning
+light revealed, only too palpably, in the faces of our companions,
+caused by the long absence of the sun, and which had hitherto been
+unnoticed by the light of lamps and candles. Like our mustard and cress,
+we were devoid of all colour, yet apparently in good and sound health.
+There is something essentially health-preserving and life-giving in the
+rays of the sun, without which everything must wither and eventually
+die. This was, in the sequel, but too fully exemplified in our case. For
+although we were all in excellent spirits and supposed ourselves to be
+in perfect health, yet the seeds of that terrible disease, which
+subsequently crippled us so disastrously, must have already germinated
+unknown to ourselves.
+
+But little did we suspect, at that time, the approach of the evil that
+eventually overtook us.
+
+Many of the large floe-bergs near the ship were observed to be literally
+rent in twain, owing in all probability to the contraction of the ice by
+the intense cold--the outer part of the floeberg being exposed to a
+greater cold than the interior. These rents will also account for the
+loud sharp reports that were frequently heard during the winter, and
+which were for some time wrapped in mystery.
+
+Towards the end of February a few hares were seen, and two or three were
+shot; but they were very timid and shy, and seldom gave our sportsmen
+opportunities of exhibiting their prowess. Lemming tracks were
+abundant, and occasionally these little animals would be seen running
+along the snow. Nellie regarded them as being created for her especial
+enjoyment in hunting, and would vainly endeavour to unsnow them after
+they had taken refuge in their holes. Woe betide the unfortunate little
+lemming observed by Nellie at any distance from its habitation. A dash,
+a gobble, and all was over! In vain did we try to break her of these
+murderous propensities, not only for the sake of the victims but also
+for herself, as the swallowing of little balls of fur cannot be
+conducive to health. All was futile! Nellie considered the chase of
+these little creatures as an undoubted privilege with which no one
+should interfere.
+
+[Illustration: LEMMINGS.]
+
+The long twilight enabled us to extend our rambles, and we visited the
+snow hut built by Rawson last autumn when attempting to get south, about
+five or six miles from the ship, and in which he had deposited a small
+quantity of provisions. To our surprise we discovered that, with the
+exception of the pemmican which was in a tin, and the tobacco, all had
+disappeared! Biscuit, bacon, tea, sugar, and cocoa, all had gone. A hole
+through the roof of the house pointed at once to the means of ingress;
+but who were the thieves? Foxes or wolves had not been seen, nor had any
+traces of them been observed!
+
+Even supposing these animals to be the depredators, how did they effect
+their escape from the house after once they had got in? It was simple
+enough to scrape a hole through the roof and jump down; but it was not
+so easy to jump straight up a height of six or seven feet through a
+small hole! Suspicion fell for some time on our long-missing dog Sallie;
+but it was never satisfactorily ascertained whether dog, wolf, or fox
+was the culprit. Of one thing there could be no doubt. The robbery had
+been committed by a very cunning and intelligent beast. Spots of blood
+on the pemmican tin showed unmistakeably that this also had been
+attempted, but had proved too hard and strong. The tracks, which were
+always to and from the floe, were too indistinct to enable us to make
+out the nature of the animal, but the general idea was that it was a
+fox.
+
+Of course, with returning daylight, the serious work of sledging and the
+preparations for the spring campaign occupied our attention to the
+exclusion of almost everything else. On Saturday, the 26th of February,
+our school assembled for the last time, the classes being dismissed in
+the evening only to reassemble again if the ship spent another winter
+away from England. It would not be fair to dismiss our pupils without a
+word of commendation. Their attendance was most regular, and their
+efforts to learn beyond all praise. Nothing could exceed their
+diligence, nor excel their desire to please and reflect credit upon
+their masters, and I do hope that many will have benefited by the
+instruction they received in their Arctic school.
+
+On Thursday, the 24th of February, was performed our last dramatic
+entertainment. The following was the programme.
+
+
+  ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
+
+  H.M.S. "Alert."
+
+  Thursday, 24th February, 1876.
+
+  [finger symbol] Last performance of the season.
+
+  GRAND REPRESENTATION
+    of the
+  Original pathetico-comico-burlesque operetta entitled the
+  LITTLE VULGAR BOY,
+    or
+  WEEPING BILL.
+
+  Founded on the celebrated Ingoldsby Legend, "Misadventures at
+  Margate."
+
+  Written expressly for the occasion by the
+  Rev. H. W. PULLEN.
+
+  Scenery by Professor Moss, M.D. Music by Lieut. Aldrich.
+  Manager: Lieut. May.
+
+  Preceded by
+
+  Reading   "The Blessed Babies"   Mr. Hunt.
+  Song      "Fie, for shame"       Mr. Symons.
+
+  CHARACTERS:
+
+  Mr. Brown, an old buffer, slightly green        Commander Markham.
+
+  Mrs. Jones, a landlady, slightly cross, but with a keen eye to
+    business                                      G. Le C. Egerton, Esq.
+
+  Jack Robinson; a seafaring man, slightly figurative in his language,
+    and violently in love with Mrs. Jones         Lieut. Giffard.
+
+  Weeping Bill, a little vulgar boy, slightly out at elbows, and fairly
+    sharp for his age                             Lieut. Rawson.
+
+  K 55, the irrepressible Bobby, slightly self-important, and the natural
+    enemy of Weeping Bill                         Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+
+  Scenes 1 and 3     The Jetty at Margate.
+  Scenes 2 and 4     Mrs. Jones's lodgings.
+
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+This piece, as set forth in the bill, was written expressly for the
+occasion by Pullen, and not only did he compose it, but he also assisted
+in its performance. It was a very successful hit, and was most
+deservedly applauded, loud cries of "Author" following the fall of the
+curtain.
+
+The ensuing Thursday witnessed the last of our "Thursday Pops," and this
+terminated our season's festivities. At it Captain Nares delivered a
+very able and instructive lecture on his sledging experiences, bringing
+a few "facts" home to the men, as to the sort of work they were about to
+perform, and the kind of life they would have to lead. His announcement
+that we should, in all probability, spend another winter in the Arctic
+Regions was hailed with delight. He also announced his intention of
+returning to England before the third winter, provided no unforeseen
+event happened to detain the expedition.
+
+The following was the programme for the evening's entertainment.
+
+
+  THURSDAY POPS.
+
+  H.M.S. "Alert."
+
+  [finger symbol] _Positively the last entertainment this winter._
+
+  March 2, 1876.
+
+  The season's festivities will terminate with the following
+  programme:--
+
+  1. The Palaeocrystic Sea and Sledging Experiences       Capt. Nares.
+  2. Ballad . . "The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_"        Mr. Cane.
+  3. Song . . "Susan's Sunday out"                    Mr. Stuckberry.
+  4. Reading . "Two Bab Ballads"                   Rev. H. W. Pullen.
+  5. Ballad. . "Over the Sea"                            Mr. Maskell.
+  6. Song . . "Rummy old Codger"                          Mr. Pearce.
+  7. Ballad. . "Seeing Nelly home"                          Mr. Self.
+  8. Recitation . "On the Arctic Expedition, by J. D."   Sergt. Wood.
+  9. Song . "Billy Woods the grocer"                        Mr. Gore.
+  10. Ballad . "Beating of my own heart"                   Mr. Ayles.
+  11. Part Song . "O who will o'er the downs so free"
+                           Messrs. Aldrich, Pullen, May, and Wootton.
+
+  To conclude with the grand Palaeocrystic Sledging Chorus, by the entire
+  strength of the house.
+
+  To commence at 7.30 precisely.
+
+  God save the Queen.
+
+  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.
+
+
+This chapter would be incomplete without the words of the "Grand
+Palaeocrystic Sledging Chorus."
+
+This was also composed by our talented poet laureate, and was most
+enthusiastically received by the whole ship's company, who vociferously
+joined in singing it on all appropriate, and other, occasions.
+
+It brought in the names of all the sledges that were employed in the
+early part of the spring campaign, and became henceforth, as it were,
+the "Arctic National Anthem."
+
+
+  CHORUS.
+
+  Not very long ago,
+  On the six-foot floe
+    Of the palaeocrystic sea,
+  Two ships did ride,
+  Mid the crashing of the tide--
+    The _Alert_ and the _Discovery_.
+
+  The sun never shone
+  The gallant crews upon
+    For a hundred and forty-two days;
+  But no darkness and no hummocks
+  Their merry hearts could flummox:
+  So they set to work and acted plays.
+
+  There was music and song
+  To help the hours along,
+    Brought forth from the good ship's store;
+  And each man did his best
+  To amuse and cheer the rest:
+    And "nobody can't do more."
+
+
+  AIR--"The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_."
+
+  Here's a health to _Marco Polo_[1]--
+  May he reach his northern goal, oh!
+    And advance the flag of England into realms unknown!
+  May the _Challenger_[2] be there,
+  All comers bold to dare,
+    And _Victoria_[3] be victorious in the frozen zone!
+
+  May our _Poppie_[4] be in sight,
+  With her colours streaming bright,
+    And the _Bulldog_[5] tug on merrily from strand to strand!
+  And the _Alexandra_[6] brave
+  See our banner proudly wave
+    O'er the highest cliffs and summits of the northernmost land!
+
+  Here's a health to _Hercules_,[7]
+  Whom the autumn blast did freeze,
+    And all our gallant fellows whom the frost laid low!
+  Just wait a little longer,
+  Till they get a trifle stronger,
+    And they'll never pull the worse because they've lost a toe.
+
+  Here's a health, with three times three,
+  To the brave _Discovery_,[8]
+    And our merry, merry guests, so truly welcome here!
+  And a brimming bumper yet
+  To our valiant little pet--
+    The lively _Clements Markham_,[9] with its bold charioteer!
+
+  Here's a health to all true blue,
+  To the officers and crew
+    Who man this Expedition neat and handy, oh!
+  And may they ever prove,
+  Both in sledging and in love,
+    That the tars of old Britannia are the dandy, oh!
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] Commander Markham's sledge.
+
+  [2] Lieut. Aldrich's sledge.
+
+  [3] Lieut. Parr's sledge.
+
+  [4] Lieut. Giffard's sledge.
+
+  [5] Dr. Moss's sledge.
+
+  [6] Mr. White's sledge.
+
+  [7] Lieut. May's sledge.
+
+  [8] Lieut. Rawson's sledge.
+
+  [9] Mr. Egerton's sledge.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+RETURN OF THE SUN.
+
+
+  "Most glorious orb! that were a worship, ere
+   The mystery of thy making was revealed!
+   Thou earliest minister of the Almighty
+   Which gladdened on their mountain tops the hearts
+   Of the Chaldean shepherds, till they poured
+   Themselves in orisons."
+
+     BYRON.
+
+The 29th of February was the day on which, according to astronomical
+rules, the reappearance of the sun was to rejoice the hearts and gladden
+the eyes of our little party. On the previous day, a general holiday had
+been proclaimed to give the men a chance, by ascending some of the hills
+in our neighbourhood, of welcoming the sun a day earlier. In this,
+however, they were doomed to disappointment. The glorious orb would not
+come out to be welcomed; for the simple reason that it was still just
+below the horizon. We were, however, rewarded by seeing its rays
+reflected in the northern sky, which was beautifully illumined with the
+most brilliant prismatic colours. Cairn Hill, and the hills to the
+southward by Cape Rawson, were the chief points of observation. The
+former was abreast of the ship, and about a mile distant; its height
+being about four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. On
+the summit was built a large cairn, hence its name. On the cairn was
+reared a long staff, to which was hoisted an iron oil cask, so as to
+form a conspicuous landmark to guide wanderers back to their ship.
+
+[Illustration: CAIRN HILL.]
+
+By ten o'clock on the forenoon of the 29th, the ship was nearly
+deserted, and officers and men could be seen dotting the floe and
+snow-covered ranges as they wended their way to the most prominent
+adjacent hills, on which little knots of men could already be seen
+assembled, in order to catch a glimpse of the rising sun. We feared,
+however, on starting, that we should be again disappointed, as there was
+no clear sea horizon to the southward, and the sun would hardly have
+sufficient altitude to show itself above the distant land. These fears
+were not without foundation, as the result proved.
+
+Shortly before noon our excitement was intense as a bright ray shot up
+vertically from the sun's position and illumined the summits of the
+surrounding ranges, whilst a radiant light was shed around.
+
+  "As rays around the source of light
+  Stream upward ere he glow in sight,
+  And watching by his future flight
+  Set the clear heavens on fire."
+
+Our hopes grew high as noon drew near, but again were we disappointed,
+and again were we compelled to return to the ship, defeated in our
+object of welcoming back the "Prodigal Sun!"
+
+The next day was cloudy, but on the following one, by going aloft about
+ten o'clock, we had the satisfaction of announcing that about one-third
+of the sun's disc was visible, as it crept slowly along the southern
+horizon. Instantly the rigging swarmed with men, scrambling up with
+elephantine agility to greet the fiery orb after its long absence, and
+looking more like animated bales of furs than human beings. It appeared
+of a deep reddish orange colour, but was so distorted by refraction that
+its shape was more that of a truncated cone than a spherical body.
+
+By noon Cairn Hill was covered with expectant visitors, and well were
+they repaid for the trouble of the ascent. Although little of the sun
+could be seen above the distant land, we knew that it was there, and
+what we did see was bright, and _appeared_ with a slight stretch of the
+imagination to be warm!
+
+Romeo's words--
+
+  "Night's candles are burnt out,
+   And jocund day stands
+   Tip-toe on the misty mountain tops,"
+
+were on our lips as we beheld the beautiful colours in the northern sky.
+The roseate tints blending with the violet seemed to belong more to
+southern climes than to the sterile inclement regions that we were
+inhabiting. The summits of the hills, the "misty mountain tops," were
+bathed in its glorious rays, whilst its luminous beams danced and
+glimmered along the distant ice-floes. It was a bright and glorious
+sight, and we remained long admiring it, and revelling in its rays--in
+fact, until warned by a peculiar sensation in our feet that the
+temperature was actually 100 deg. below freezing-point; and however ecstatic
+we might feel at the reappearance of the sun, Jack Frost still reigned
+supreme, exacting implicit obedience to his will, and making those who
+disregarded his injunctions suffer for their heedlessness.
+
+Undoubtedly the Arctic Regions, and the farther north the better, would
+be a good place for Parsees; for none of the followers of Zoroaster
+could have exhibited more anxiety for the return, and more delight at
+the appearance, of their deity, than we did before and after the bright
+rays of the sun first fell upon us! Their god Fire would also receive,
+during the long cold Polar winter, the utmost homage and attention. Sun
+and Fire worshippers would require in these regions little to stimulate
+them to devotion.
+
+Strange to say, our extreme cold came with the returning sun. During
+the latter end of February the temperature had been gradually getting
+lower and lower, until on the 4th of March it had fallen to -74 deg., or
+106 deg. below freezing-point. This was the lowest recorded by the
+expedition, obtained from the mean of several thermometers, and, so far
+as we could ascertain, the lowest really authentic corrected observation
+that has ever been registered in any part of the globe. From noon of the
+3rd until noon of the 4th the mean temperature was -69 deg..68, whilst the
+lowest mean temperature registered for any twenty-four consecutive hours
+was from four A.M. of the former until four A.M. of the last-mentioned
+day -70 deg..31. From six P.M. on March 2nd until six A.M. of March 4th,
+namely thirty-six consecutive hours, the mean temperature was as low as
+-69 deg..93', and for the week ending March 4th the mean temperature was
+-60 deg.!
+
+It was amusing to observe the eager excitement with which every one
+received the latest intelligence regarding the state of the thermometer,
+and when it was announced that the "lowest on record" had been
+registered, there was a general shout of exultation. During the intense
+cold several experiments were tried by exposing various substances to
+its influence, and with the following results. Glycerine, on which a
+temperature of -50 deg. had little effect, became, at -70 deg., perfectly solid
+and quite transparent. Rectified spirits of wine became of the
+consistency of hair-oil. Concentrated rum, 40 deg. over-proof, froze hard
+when exposed in a shallow vessel like a saucer, but when in a large
+quantity it resembled honey or molasses in consistency. Whiskey froze
+hard, and we actually broke off bits and ate it! In consequence of this
+latter proceeding we have since our return to England been, not without
+reason, accused of "hard drinking," an accusation we are, of course,
+unable to refute! Chloroform was the only substance on which the low
+temperature had no apparent effect. Our temperatures were obtained by
+taking the mean of ten thermometers that were exposed, to which result
+was applied the corrections from Kew for each instrument. These had been
+ascertained when the instruments were tested at the Kew observatory
+before leaving England. The corrections and errors of the instruments
+could, of course, only be approximately ascertained after the
+freezing-point of mercury had been passed, as there was nothing beyond
+that with which the spirit could be compared. The slightest impurity of
+the spirit used, or the presence of even the most minute portions of
+extraneous matter in it, would no doubt seriously affect the accuracy of
+the observation. As an instance of the range exhibited by these
+instruments, it may be interesting to know that one thermometer
+indicated as low a temperature as -82 deg., while, _at the same time_,
+another showed only -60 deg.; but by applying the errors deduced at Kew, the
+result was as nearly as possible the same. I think that the minimum
+temperature recorded by us was, if not absolutely correct, as nearly so
+as it was possible to arrive at.
+
+Although we never again experienced such a severe burst of cold as we
+did during the first few days of March, the temperature remained
+extraordinarily low, and mercury was in a frozen state during nearly the
+whole of that month. The presence of the sun appeared to have little
+effect on the temperature, but thermometers exposed to its rays would
+frequently rise as high as zero, and sometimes above that point.
+
+The difference of temperature at the summit and at the base of Cairn
+Hill, whose height, as has been stated, was four hundred and fifty feet,
+was 51/2 deg., the thermometer rising as the hill was ascended, and falling
+again as it was brought down.
+
+Traces of ptarmigan had frequently been observed in the snow, but it was
+not until the 22nd of March that the first bird was seen, although our
+sportsmen had been most diligent in their search for them. On that day
+two of our pedestrians succeeding in flushing one solitary ptarmigan,
+but, as is usual in such cases, they were without guns. Very few of
+these birds were afterwards seen in the neighbourhood of the "Alert."
+Their appearance caused some little excitement, for we looked upon them
+as the harbingers of spring, and as a token that our long winter had
+well-nigh terminated.
+
+On the 25th of March, there was a partial eclipse of the sun, which was
+clearly visible to all those who took the trouble to go on deck and,
+with a piece of smoked or coloured glass, examine it in spite of a very
+low temperature. The first contact was observed at six minutes past four
+in the afternoon, and the egress at six o'clock. About .65, or little
+more than half the sun, was obscured.
+
+During the middle of March the quarter-deck housing was removed, and we
+were again able to enjoy daylight on the upper deck. Although the low
+temperature did not yet admit of our removing the snow from the
+hatchways and skylights, yet we were able to clear the tops of our cabin
+illuminators, and thus obtain below a slight amount of daylight,
+sufficient at any rate to obviate the necessity of incessant
+candle-light during the day. It was not until the middle of May, whilst
+the sledge travellers were absent, that the skylights were cleared and
+the snow removed from the upper deck.
+
+Fire is the most disastrous accident that can possibly happen to a ship
+wintering in the Arctic Regions, and it should be most carefully guarded
+against. It may result in having your house, together with all your
+provisions, consumed, and yourselves, perhaps not burnt, but destined
+for even a more terrible fate, namely, turned out on the ice without
+food and without shelter, exposed to a pitiless temperature, with no
+covering or protection of any description. Such a situation would prove
+fatal in a few hours. Men so placed would realize the dreadful fate so
+vividly and graphically described by Jules Verne as having befallen
+Captain Hatteras and his companions when their ship was destroyed and
+they were deserted by their shipmates.
+
+In the "Alert" we had one alarm from fire, which, although it might have
+ended disastrously, did very little injury. It originated in our
+"drying-room," where, through the carelessness of the man in charge,
+some of the clothes had been allowed to hang in dangerous proximity to
+the stove. These igniting quickly communicated the fire to the
+surrounding objects, and for a little time it was doubtful whether the
+conflagration might not assume a very serious aspect. In spite of the
+occurrence happening at night-time, the men exerted themselves with such
+good will that the fire was speedily extinguished, with no further
+damage done than the destruction of a few clothes, although it was some
+time before we could rid ourselves of the smoke, which unpleasantly
+permeated the whole ship. The temperature at the time was 58 deg. below
+zero, which would have rendered the work of supplying water from the
+fire-hole not only a difficult, but also a dangerous task, and one which
+must have resulted in many severe frost-bites.
+
+During the latter part of the month of March the officers were employed
+in dismounting the various instruments in the observatories, carefully
+packing and putting them away, as most of them would not be required
+again until the following winter. This was a very necessary proceeding,
+as before the return of the officers from sledge travelling the
+observatories with all their "fixings," such as pedestals, etc., being
+composed of snow, would have melted away during the summer thaw. By the
+end of the month the observatories were entirely stripped and left bare,
+when they gradually fell into decay. "Woolwich" was also "unsnowed," and
+the powder brought off to the ship and stowed in the magazine.
+
+In addition to all this work, the crews of the different sledges
+destined to take part in the spring campaign were, in this month of
+March, specially exercised, under their respective officers, for several
+hours during the day. Their regular daily exercise had also been
+carefully attended to throughout the winter.
+
+Occasionally they were employed laying out depots of provisions to the
+southward, to be used by the sledge parties proceeding northwards from
+the "Discovery," or sometimes dragging their laden sledges over the pack
+in the immediate vicinity of the ship, with the object of gaining
+experience in crossing ridges of hummocks, and of realizing the kind of
+travelling with which they were so soon to become more intimately
+acquainted. These little journeys gave us an insight into the endless
+difficulties that we were hereafter called upon to contend with, and the
+obstacles we were destined to surmount. We foresaw that we should have
+"stiffish" work before us, but we did not doubt that we should render a
+good and satisfactory account of the duty entrusted to us.
+
+After several cries of "wolf," one actually did make its appearance on
+the 1st of April. Early in the morning of that day an animal had been
+observed, by the quarter-master of the watch, stealthily prowling round
+the ship. Supposing it to be a bear, the alarm was given and one or two
+of our hunters went in chase. More would undoubtedly have followed their
+example, but recollecting the day, they preferred remaining in their
+warm beds for an hour longer to the risk of being informed, when they
+came on deck fully equipped for the chase, that it was the 1st of April!
+
+The traces left in the snow showed unmistakeably the character of our
+visitor. Instead of being a bear, it proved to be a wolf, but so alarmed
+was it at the disturbance made on board that it scampered over the hills
+and eluded our pursuit. That same afternoon, however, accompanied by my
+usual companion Nellie, I took a long walk to the southward, following
+the trail of the wolf for some distance. On my return, and when about
+two miles and a half from the ship, I happened to look round, and there,
+about a hundred yards off, and following in my track, was a tall, gaunt,
+raw-boned and famished-looking wolf. He was of a yellowish colour, and
+in size larger than our biggest Eskimo dog. Of course, as is generally
+the way in cases of this sort, I was totally unprovided with arms of
+any description, and was therefore unable to add his skin to our natural
+history collection. I cannot say whether Nellie or her master offered
+the greatest attraction to this animal; but whichever it might be, he
+followed us, sometimes at not more than ten yards distance, stopping if
+we stopped, and advancing when we advanced, until we were within about
+half a mile from the ship, when some of my messmates coming out to meet
+me, he bolted over the hills and made his escape. My great anxiety at
+the time was for my poor old Nellie, who showed a great inclination to
+become better acquainted with the wolf, and I had the utmost difficulty
+in restraining her. Whenever she strayed a little from my heel, the
+brute would make a bolt at her, and I have little doubt that she would
+have been killed if he had once succeeded in his endeavours. On the same
+evening we discovered the tracks of four musk-oxen, but although we
+followed them up for many miles we did not succeed in seeing them. The
+fact of the latter being in our neighbourhood fully accounted for the
+presence of the wolf, who was no doubt following their tracks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+
+  "Give me some ink and paper in my tent,
+   I'll draw the form and model of our battle:
+   Limit each leader to his several charge,
+   And put in just proportions our small force."
+
+     _Richard III._
+
+[Illustration: SLEDGE UNDER SAIL.]
+
+Hitherto I have purposely abstained from alluding to our spring
+operations, as I thought that it would be better to devote a separate
+chapter exclusively to the account of the details of sledge equipment.
+But it must not be supposed, because I have omitted to say anything
+about the sledging during the winter, that it was neglected, and that
+our time was entirely occupied with our amusements and observatory
+duties. Such was not the case. The preparations for the spring campaign
+and the organization of our sledge parties in all its details were very
+carefully thought over and matured during the long dark hours of the
+winter. All works on this subject had been diligently read, in order
+that we might benefit by the experience of our predecessors. Nothing was
+neglected that could in any way conduce to the success of the
+enterprise, and everything that could possibly add to the health and
+comfort of those to be employed on work of such an arduous nature was
+carefully considered. The sledges, tents, and other equipments necessary
+for travelling had been constructed under the personal superintendence
+of Sir Leopold McClintock, who is the highest living authority on Arctic
+sledge travelling. A few alterations, which we trusted would also be
+improvements, were suggested by the experience gained during the autumn,
+and these were all carried out before the return of the sun. The results
+justified our anticipations. Out of the four different kinds of sledges
+supplied to the expedition those which found most favour with us, and
+with which the greatest part of the work was done, were the eight-men
+sledges.[1] These dragged easier, and were stronger than either the
+smaller or larger description of sledges. So long as the travelling
+remains good, that is smooth and level ice with hard snow on its
+surface, these sledges may be loaded to 240 lbs. for each man to drag,
+and a good day's work to be accomplished. This weight, of course, would
+only be dragged on first leaving the ship, or a depot, and decreases at
+the rate of about 3 lbs. per man per diem, the amount of provisions
+consumed by each individual. What are called the "constant" weights,
+which include the sledge, tent, robes, cooking apparatus, pickaxe,
+shovel, etc., remain unaltered during the journey. The question of
+weight is one requiring the closest attention.
+
+Every trifling article, even to a small packet of a _dozen pins_ placed
+in the medicine chest, has to be weighed and recorded in the general
+equipment. The following table shows the weight of the various articles
+(being constant weights) required for the equipment of an Arctic sledge
+for forty-five days:--
+
+EQUIPMENT OF AN EIGHT-MEN SLEDGE, PROVISIONED FOR AN ABSENCE OF
+FORTY-FIVE DAYS.
+
+                                              lb.  oz.
+  Sledge (complete)                           130   0
+  Tent (complete)                              44   0
+  Tent poles, five in number                   25   0
+  Coverlet                                     31   8
+  Extra coverlet (used only in cold weather)   20   0
+  Lower robe                                   23   0
+  Waterproof floor-cloth                       15   0
+  Sail                                          9   4
+  Eight sleeping bags                          64   0
+  Eight knapsacks (packed)                     96   0
+  Two pickaxes                                 14   8
+  Shovel                                        6   8
+  Store bag                                    25   0
+  Cooking gear                                 29   0
+  Gun and ammunition                           25   0
+  Medical stores                               12   0
+  Instruments                                  15   0
+                                              -------
+                   Constant weights           584  12
+  Forty-five days' provisions for eight men
+  (including packages)                       1080   0
+                                             --------
+                               Total         1664  12
+
+which, dragged by seven men, is equivalent to about 238 lbs. per man to
+drag.
+
+This should never be exceeded, nor should it even be kept up for any
+length of time.
+
+It will thus be seen that it is impossible for a sledge party to be
+absent from the ship for more than seven weeks, at the outside, on its
+own resources. In order, therefore, to enable it to remain away for a
+longer period, depots of provisions are established during the autumn on
+the line of route, and auxiliary sledges are despatched in the spring
+from which the extended parties may be replenished with provisions after
+they have been away from the ship some two or three weeks. These
+auxiliary sledges, on their return, are again completed with provisions
+and sent out to meet the extended parties on their way back. By these
+means, a sledging party may remain away for as long as twelve or
+thirteen weeks.
+
+Depots can only be laid out when there is a continuous coast line, and
+under circumstances when a _cache_ containing provisions can easily be
+discovered. When the frozen ocean has to be traversed, depots cannot be
+depended upon; for a movement of the ice, or the misfortune of wandering
+off the outward bound track during thick weather, would deprive the
+travellers of any chance of finding their supplies. The result in such a
+case would probably be fatal. The only way of ensuring an extended
+absence to a party sledging over the pack, is by sending with it an
+additional sledge. This, of course, entails the necessity of traversing
+the same road three times over. For the men must never under any
+circumstances (other than unavoidable necessity, caused by the sickness
+of some of the crew) be allowed to drag more than the outside weight of
+240 lbs. at any one time.
+
+It would, I think, and I am now speaking from experience, be preferable,
+when such a journey is necessary, to send a sledge away for only six
+weeks rather than to provision a party for three months, and compel the
+men to undergo the monotonous and wearisome work of going over the same
+ground so often; and, I believe, quite as much work would be
+accomplished.
+
+The tents were all made of the lightest duck,[2] which was sufficient
+to protect us from the falling or drifting snow, and the keen cutting
+wind. The space inside was, of necessity, very limited; the width in
+which each man had to sleep being only fourteen inches. Whilst his head
+was touching one side of the tent, his feet were in contact with the
+other. The slightest movement of the sleeper during the night would
+disturb his neighbours on either side.
+
+The entrance to the tent had a porch attached to it, which was, of
+course, always carefully closed, and served to exclude the fine
+snow-drift that would otherwise have penetrated into the interior. The
+opposite side of the tent was fitted in a similar manner for the
+protection of the cook whilst engaged in preparing the meals. The duties
+of the cook during intensely cold weather entail hardships which it is
+scarcely possible to overrate. The poor cook is never in his sleeping
+bag until two or three hours after the rest of the party have been
+comfortably settled for the night, and he has always to rise in the
+morning a couple of hours before his comrades are disturbed, and this
+after a hard and fatiguing day's work. His cooking apparatus consists of
+a spirit lamp, a stearine lamp, a kettle, and a stew-pan. His fuel is
+either spirits of wine, or cocoa-nut stearine; and as the allowance of
+either is strictly limited, he has to be as economical as he possibly
+can. Should his fuel be consumed before the meal is cooked, he will get
+no more, and the pemmican will have to be eaten in a semi-frozen state.
+The odour and smoke emitted by the stearine can only be appreciated by
+those who have served their apprenticeship as cooks to an Arctic sledge
+party! Many experiments were tried during the winter to improve our
+cooking apparatus, but few were attended with success. Mr. White devoted
+a good deal of thought and time to this important matter. By introducing
+a cone into the kettle and stew-pan he succeeded in gaining a decided
+advantage in rapidity of cooking, but then his plan also had its
+disadvantages, a difficulty of cleaning and an encroachment on valuable
+space being the chief objections to it. By giving the bottom of the pans
+and kettles a little more concavity, we gained a slight advantage in
+point of time, and time in cooking also means an economy of fuel. The
+tent robes, coverlets, and sleeping bags were all made of duffel. The
+knapsacks were made of duck, and contained the only spare clothing that
+each man was allowed to take. The contents consisted of two pairs of
+blanket wrappers, one pair of wadmill hose, one pair of moccasins, a
+skull-cap for sleeping in, a woollen cap presented to each person in the
+expedition by H.I.M. the Empress Eugenie, two pairs of mitts, a flannel
+shirt, a pair of drawers, a comforter, a pair of snow-spectacles, a
+towel, and a piece of soap. The latter was rather a superfluous article
+until the thaw set in.
+
+The store bag contained the pemmican chopper and board, a snow-knife and
+saw, some spare lashings of hide for the sledge, matches, slow match,
+twine, and various other small and useful articles.
+
+The scale of provisions to be used whilst sledging was almost identical
+with that of preceding expeditions, the only difference being that we
+reduced the allowance of spirits by half and doubled the amount of tea
+and sugar. The following was the daily ration for each man:--
+
+                                lb. oz.
+  Pemmican                       1   0
+  Bacon                          0   4
+  Biscuit                        0  14
+  Preserved potatoes             0   2
+  Chocolate                      0   1
+  Sugar for ditto                0   0.5
+  Tea for two meals              0   0.5
+  Sugar for ditto                0   1.5
+  Salt                           0   0.25
+  Pepper                         0   0.05
+  Onion powder or curry paste    0   0.125
+  Rum                            0   2
+  Spirits of wine                0   2
+  Stearine                       0   3
+  Tobacco (weekly)               0   3.5
+
+This we found a very ample allowance, and one that could not, in my
+opinion, be improved upon. The different articles were excellent of
+their kind, and of very superior quality.
+
+Since our return to England, fault has been found with our leader
+because lime-juice was not included in the scale of dietary for the
+sledges, during April, as a daily ration. Our scale of diet was
+necessarily based on that of preceding expeditions, and we had no reason
+to expect that we should suffer from that dread disease, scurvy, any
+more than did our predecessors. Lime-juice had never before been taken
+as a daily ration by an extended sledge party, and Sir Leopold
+McClintock, the highest living authority, has since publicly declared
+that, in following the precedents established by former experience as
+regards the lime-juice, Sir George Nares acted exactly as he would have
+done under the same circumstances. Moreover, the lime-juice was
+supplied in a form that made it impossible to use during an Arctic
+March, April, or May, away from the ship. It was in bottles or very
+large heavy jars, and, of course, the moment such vessels were placed
+near a fire to thaw their contents, in such a temperature, they would
+have been cracked to pieces. This is a conclusive answer to those who,
+without experience, and ignorant of the conditions under which we
+travelled, have expressed opinions on this subject. After May, when it
+was possible to use it, lime-juice was always taken by our sledge
+parties as a daily ration. When we came home, the use was suggested of
+lime-juice lozenges, and the Medical Director General has proposed that
+lime-juice should be mixed with pemmican. It is certainly very much to
+be regretted that some such arrangements were not made and carried out
+before the expedition left England. It will be seen (if lime-juice would
+really have prevented the attack of scurvy) how terribly we had to
+suffer from the consequences of the omission.
+
+Lieutenant Parr and myself each took two bottles of lime-juice, with the
+intention of using it when the warm weather of June arrived. It was not
+possible to use it to any advantage, hard frozen in a bottle, during
+March, April, or May.
+
+Dr. Colan drew up very careful medical instructions for the commanders
+of sledges, and each received some elementary surgical instruction. The
+doctor also paid most anxious attention to the contents of the medical
+chest, the weight of which was not allowed to exceed 12 lbs.[3]
+
+The clothing worn by the men engaged in the sledging operations was
+somewhat different from that in use during the winter. Our under
+clothing was made of thick flannel. Over this we wore one or two flannel
+or check shirts, long sleeved woollen waist-coats, thick knitted
+guernseys, and duffel trousers, the latter reaching about a foot below
+the knee. All wore broad flannel belts, commonly called cholera belts,
+round their loins. On our heads we had woollen helmet caps, called by
+the men "Eugenies," and over this was worn a thick sealskin cap with ear
+and neck flaps attached.
+
+Our feet were encased in blanket wrappers, one or two pairs according to
+the temperature, a pair of thick woollen hose reaching above the knees
+and worn over the trousers, and moccasins. The latter, as supplied to
+us, only came up round the ankle, so we fitted them with leggings. Those
+who were provided with chamois leather made their leggings of that
+material, but the majority cut the sleeves off their check shirts which,
+when sewn on to the moccasin, answered admirably, their chief use being
+to keep the snow from penetrating into the trousers. Some of the
+moccasins were also soled with leather, obtained by cutting off the
+upper part of the fishermen's boots, a pair of which had been supplied
+to each person. As a rule these soles were quickly worn out, and the men
+were soon reduced to the bare moccasin, which, however, lasted
+wonderfully.
+
+Large gauntlet mitts were made during the winter, of fearnought covered
+with duck, and worn with a strap round the neck. These were only
+supplied to the sledgers, and were found very useful. At night-time they
+were used on the feet in the sleeping bags, and certainly assisted very
+materially in keeping them warm. Finally each person was provided with a
+suit of duck overalls, to act as "snow repellers," which were always
+worn whilst on the march. As an extra precaution against snow-blindness,
+the men were ordered to paint some device on the backs of these snow
+jumpers in order to afford a certain amount of relief to the eyes of
+their comrades. The designs of these devices or crests were left
+entirely to the artistic imaginations of the men, and they caused a good
+deal of merriment. They were certainly more quaint than elegant. Donkeys
+and Polar bears in various wonderful positions appeared to be in the
+greatest favour. Each crest was accompanied by a motto, invariably a
+Latin one. Whether these devices relieved us from severe attacks of
+snow-blindness or not it would be difficult to decide. They served at
+any rate to amuse us, and often formed the topic of conversation when
+other subjects were getting scarce. Snow-spectacles were invariably used
+by the travellers, and were only taken off after the party had halted
+for the night and had sought the shelter of their tent. In consequence
+of the adoption of these snow-goggles when we first set out on our
+travels, we were comparatively exempt from that painful disease,
+snow-blindness, from which other expeditions have more or less suffered,
+and which renders the patient so attacked utterly helpless. We
+occasionally had a few cases, but with one or two exceptions they were
+in a very mild form.
+
+Such were the details of the general equipment of the sledging parties
+that were despatched from the "Alert" in the spring of 1876. Officers
+and men shared alike in everything; they had the same provisions, their
+costume was identical, they shared the same couch and tent, and each
+showed the same zealous desire to perform his duty, and the same eager
+anxiety to bring to a successful issue the service on which they were
+employed.
+
+Although the whole of the available force on board the "Alert" was
+engaged in the sledging operations of the spring, we were only able to
+despatch _two_ extended parties.[4] The rest of the men and sledges were
+required to act as auxiliaries to the advanced parties, and were
+continually employed during the summer until the return of all the
+travellers brought our sledging operations to a conclusion.
+
+The programme to be carried out, and which was determined upon after
+very mature and careful deliberation, was for one party, the command of
+which was given to Aldrich the first lieutenant, to continue the
+discoveries of the autumn by exploring the coast line to the westward;
+whilst a larger party, which was entrusted to my conduct, was to push
+across the rugged polar pack, and endeavour to reach as high a northern
+latitude as possible. The exploration of the north side of Greenland, to
+the eastward, and the examination of the fiords in Robeson Channel, were
+left to the sledge parties from the "Discovery."
+
+The difficulties to be encountered and the serious obstacles to be
+overcome in the journey due north over the frozen sea were well
+understood. We had made ourselves acquainted with the nature of the
+travelling to be anticipated by various short excursions on the ice in
+the vicinity of the ship, and were, therefore, fully aware of the
+serious character of the work that was before us. None were so rash as
+to indulge in any extravagant ideas of successfully reaching a very high
+position. The parallel of 84 deg., or perhaps 85 deg. by the more sanguine, was
+regarded as the highest that could possibly be attained.
+
+It was a well-known fact, before the ship went into winter quarters,
+that the polar pack, composed of extraordinarily heavy ice, was in
+motion at that season. This motion, or perhaps a general disruption,
+would occur, it was calculated, in about July or August, possibly in
+June. It was, therefore, not only a measure of prudence, but one of
+absolute necessity, that the party destined to travel over this frozen
+ocean should be provided with the means of safety to themselves, if a
+disruption should take place at an earlier period than was anticipated.
+It was therefore decided that two boats,[5] capable of conveying the
+whole party from one floe to another, should form part of the equipment
+of the northern division. This additional weight, of course, seriously
+augmented the labour of the men.
+
+The only previous attempt to advance over a frozen sea, away from the
+land, was made by Sir Edward Parry, in his memorable journey towards the
+North Pole in 1827.[6]
+
+For reasons already stated, the northern party was unable to lay out
+depots on the ice, nor could our sledges be met by supporting sledges
+until after their return to the land. It therefore became necessary that
+they should carry with them sufficient provisions to last for the whole
+time of anticipated absence. This, with the boats, obliged the two
+sledge crews composing the division to take with them a _third_ sledge,
+so that under the most favourable conditions of travelling, they would
+be compelled, after advancing two sledges, to return over the same road
+and drag on the third. This we fondly hoped on starting we should be
+able to accomplish; little did we think that the fearfully rugged nature
+of the road would necessitate the same distance being traversed five or
+even seven times.
+
+For the same reason that the men were ordered to emblazon arms and
+crests on the backs of their clothes, we had the boats which were to
+accompany the sledges painted with gay and brilliant devices. The rose,
+shamrock, and thistle were painted on the hulls, and the royal arms
+decorated their sterns. Moss, on this as on other occasions, was the
+artist; his great difficulty in accomplishing the work being that in
+spite of the quantity of turpentine with which the paint was mixed, it
+persisted in freezing in the brush, rendering that article more like a
+stick than an artist's pencil.
+
+The sledges were, of course, all named by their commanders.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] The eight-men sledge has six uprights eighteen inches apart. It
+    is eleven feet long, three feet two inches wide, eleven inches high,
+    and weighs 130 lbs. complete. In former expeditions sails were
+    frequently used on the sledges to great advantage, when travelling
+    over smooth ice. But we were seldom so fortunate as to meet with ice
+    which was suitable for sailing, in any of our sledge journeys. May
+    and Egerton got their sledges under sail on an extensive floe in
+    Robeson Channel, when they crossed over to the Greenland side; but as
+    a rule the ice we met with was far too rough to make the use of sails
+    practicable. In rigging a sail on the sledge two tent poles are
+    lashed together as a yard, with a spare pole as a foot yard. The
+    other two tent poles are used as shears, and at their ends a
+    mast-head iron, or shear head, is fitted, consisting of two rings
+    united by a piece of iron about three inches long, from the centre of
+    which there is a hook on each side for the steadying guys, and a
+    small block for the halyards is seized on to the iron between the
+    rings. A spare cross-bar is placed on the top of the lading, over the
+    midship uprights, and lashed down to the bearer. It is fitted with a
+    span seized along its top-side, and the bights, with a thimble in
+    each, project just beyond the cross-bar. The ends of the shears are
+    then stepped into the thimbles attached to this cross-bar, and the
+    sail hoisted. On smooth ice, with the wind aft or on the quarter, a
+    sledge will travel under sail at a good pace. But smooth ice was
+    almost unknown in the region explored by our expedition.
+
+  [2] The tents were of light, close, unbleached duck. The eight-men
+    tents were nine feet four inches long at the bottom, and eight feet
+    at the top, seven feet wide and high, and weighed 44 lbs. The tent
+    ropes are six fathoms long of one and a quarter inch, and the tent
+    poles eight feet six inches long.
+
+  [3] The medical stores for each sledge were:--2 phials of sal
+    volatile and aromatic spirits of ammonia; 2 phials of laudanum; 2
+    phials of wine of opium; a small tin of Gregory's powders; 12 papers
+    (10 grains each) of Dover's powders; 32 papers (15 grains each) of
+    chalk powders; 30 papers (4 grains each) of sugar of lead; a bottle
+    of turpentine liniment; a phial of carbolic acid; glycerine ointment;
+    white ointment; carbolic plaster; 4 dozen purgative pills; oil silk.
+    Sponge, pins, expanding splints, and carbolized tow, cotton wool, a
+    catheter, a tourniquet, a truss with pad, a lancet, twill, Persian
+    gauze, 2 eye shades, small splint, scissors, flannel ice goggles,
+    tape, mustard, 3 calico bandages, 2 flannel bandages, and lint. These
+    stores were in a wooden case, and a medicine tin for bottles,
+    together weighing 4 lbs.; while their contents weighed 7 lbs. 11
+    ozs., together, 12 lbs.
+
+  [4] Our available force was much smaller than that of the expeditions
+    under Sir Horatio Austin (1850-51), and Sir Henry Kellet (1852-54).
+    They enjoyed the great advantage of having a third larger
+    force--ninety instead of sixty men.
+
+  [5] The sledges for carrying boats have the two end cross-bars fitted
+    with two cleats, one on each side of the boat's keel. These cleats
+    are seven inches long, and are securely lashed to the cross-bars. Two
+    battens of American elm, each two inches wide and half an inch thick,
+    are lashed in a fore and aft direction to the top of the cross-bars
+    three and a half inches apart, that is to say one and three-quarters
+    inch on each side of the central bearer. They are sufficiently long
+    to allow of being secured to all the cross-bars. When the boat is
+    placed on the sledge the keel rests on the cross-bars between the
+    cleats, and is held in an upright position by one long cushion of
+    stout canvas, stuffed with cork cuttings, on each side, and these are
+    kept in their places by lashings.
+
+  [6] As Sir Edward Parry's attempt to reach the Pole was the only
+    extended journey that was ever undertaken due north across the Polar
+    Sea, until the second attempt was made by the northern division of
+    sledges under my command, it will be well to give, in this place, the
+    details of Parry's equipment and the result of his expedition.
+
+    A Sir Edward Parry sailed from England in the "Hecla," on April 3rd,
+    1827; when placing her in a safe harbour on the north coast of
+    Spitzbergen, he commenced his memorable attempt to reach the Pole on
+    June 21st. He had two boats, the "Enterprise" and the "Endeavour."
+    Parry himself, with Mr. Beverley, was in the former, James Ross and
+    Edward Bird in the latter. Ten seamen and two marines formed the crew
+    of each boat. The boats were flat-bottomed, with the extreme breadth
+    of seven feet, carried well forward and aft, and twenty feet long,
+    the timbers of tough ash and hickory. On the outside frame a system
+    of planking was adopted with a view to securing elasticity in the
+    frequent concussions with the ice. This consisted of a covering of
+    waterproof canvas coated with tar, then a thin fir plank, then a
+    sheet of felt, and, lastly, a thin oak plank, all secured to the
+    timbers by iron screws. On each side of the keel there was a strong
+    runner shod with metal, like that of a sledge, on which the boats
+    entirely rested when on the ice. A hide span across the fore-part of
+    the runners had two horse-hair drag ropes attached to it. The boats
+    had two thwarts, a locker at each end, a light framework along the
+    sides for containing provisions and spare clothes, a bamboo mast, and
+    tanned duck sail, fourteen paddles, and a steer oar. They started
+    with seventy-one days' provisions. The weight of each boat was 1,539
+    lbs., and the total weight, with provisions, 3,753 lbs., or 268 lbs.
+    per man; besides four light taboggan sledges weighing 26 lbs. each.
+    The daily allowance for each man was 10 ozs. of biscuit, 9 ozs. of
+    pemmican, 1 oz. of cocoa, and 1 gill of rum. Parry took no
+    lime-juice. They slept in the boat with sails as awnings, and
+    travelled during the night.
+
+    They sailed in the boats until June 23rd, when it became necessary to
+    haul them on the ice in 81 deg. 12' 51'' N. The actual travelling then
+    began over floes of small extent, intersected by hummocks. After a
+    journey of thirty days, Parry reached his most northern point on July
+    23rd, in latitude, by dead reckoning, 82 deg. 45' N. No actual
+    observation for latitude was obtained at their extreme northern
+    point. They had travelled ninety-two miles over the ice, and two
+    hundred in the boats before they hauled them on to the floe, but were
+    only one hundred and seventy-two miles from the "Hecla." Such had
+    been the drift of the floes to the southward. The boats returned to
+    the "Hecla" on August 21st, and Parry arrived in England again on
+    October 6th.
+
+    This journey was made in the middle of summer after the disruption of
+    the ice. The daily allowance of food for the men was insufficient,
+    and the weight of 26 lbs. for each man was too great. But these were
+    points which could only be learnt by experience, and Sir Edward Parry
+    was the pioneer of Arctic sledge travelling. He attained the highest
+    northern latitude ever before reached by man, and it was forty-eight
+    years and two months before any explorer succeeded in going beyond
+    the parallel which Parry reached in 1827.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON.
+
+
+  "You were used to say,
+   Extremity was the trier of spirits,
+   That common chances common men could bear,
+   That when the sea was calm, all boats alike
+   Showed mastership in floating."
+
+     SHAKESPEARE.
+
+It was a part of Captain Nares's scheme for the spring campaign that,
+before the departure of the extended parties, a dog sledge should be
+despatched to communicate with our consort wintering some fifty miles to
+the southward of us.
+
+The officers and men of the "Discovery" were, of course, in total
+ignorance of our position and even of our safety, for no communication
+had taken place between the two ships since the day of our departure
+from Discovery Harbour, seven months before. As soon as there was
+sufficient light to admit of travelling, the important and necessary
+duty had to be undertaken of conveying information to her respecting our
+position, so that the anxiety of her people concerning our safety might
+be relieved, and also that the Captain of the "Discovery" might be made
+acquainted with our intentions regarding the routes of exploration
+allotted to our sledge travellers. The parties from the "Discovery"
+would then adopt other routes, and thus the area of unknown country to
+he explored would be extended to the utmost limit possible. The work of
+the expedition, consisting of the journeys of the different parties from
+the two ships, taking different routes, would thus embrace all that
+human effort could achieve with the means provided.
+
+[Illustration: DOGS AND SLEDGE.]
+
+The duty of communicating with the "Discovery" was entrusted to Egerton;
+and Rawson, who was naturally desirous of re-visiting his ship, was
+allowed to accompany him. Their sledge was dragged by a team of nine
+dogs, and the party was provisioned and equipped for an absence of ten
+days. If they failed in accomplishing their object in that time, and
+their supplies became exhausted, they could replenish their stock from
+the large depot that had been established during the previous autumn at
+a point about midway between the two ships, in Lincoln Bay. Petersen,
+the Danish interpreter, accompanied the two officers in the capacity of
+dog driver.
+
+In consequence of the very low temperature experienced during the first
+week in March, their time of departure had to be deferred. Sunday, the
+12th of March, was the day eventually selected for the start of this the
+first sledging expedition of the season.
+
+The temperature on that morning was low, but rose gradually towards
+noon, until it seemed inclined to remain stationary at 30 deg. below zero.
+
+There were further indications of a continuance of fine weather, from
+the day being bright and clear and the barometer steady. Letters to our
+friends on board the "Discovery" were hastily finished. Immediately
+divine service had been performed the colours were hoisted, and amidst
+the cheers of "all hands," who had assembled on the floe to bid the
+travellers God speed, H.M. sledge "Clements Markham," with its bright
+standard fluttering out bravely before a light breeze, started with the
+object of renewing intercourse with our comrades in the "Discovery."
+
+For the next two or three days our thoughts on board were constantly
+with the absent ones, especially as the temperature, shortly after their
+departure, had again fallen very low. This, however, caused us little
+uneasiness, for we knew that everything that lay in our power had been
+done to protect them from any sudden and extreme cold, and we all had
+the greatest confidence in the skill, discretion, and sound judgment of
+our two messmates. Many a silent prayer was offered up in their behalf,
+that they might accomplish their mission in safety, and return speedily
+with good news of those who, like ourselves, were wintering in the ice.
+
+On the third day they returned unexpectedly with a sad tale of woe and
+suffering, and with the poor Dane utterly prostrate and helpless on the
+sledge. I cannot do better than relate the sad story in Lieutenant
+Egerton's own words.
+
+We read in his official report, that not five hours after they had left
+the ship "frost-bites became so numerous, that I thought it advisable to
+encamp."
+
+This was only the beginning of the story, for they appear to have passed
+a comparatively comfortable night.
+
+At any rate they were up early the next morning and again under weigh;
+at about one o'clock, when they halted for lunch, Petersen complained of
+cramp in his stomach and was given some hot tea. He had no appetite,
+which perhaps was as well, for we read of the bacon, which is always
+used for lunch, "We were unable to eat it, being frozen so hard that we
+could not get our teeth through the lean." They still continued their
+journey, encountering some very rough travelling, which necessitated
+severe physical labour on the part of the two officers. "The dogs were
+of little or no use in getting across these slopes, as it was impossible
+to get them to go up the cliff, and Petersen being unable to work,
+Lieutenant Rawson and I had to get the sledge along as best we could."
+Towards the end of the day we read: "Petersen began to get rather worse,
+and was shivering all over, his nose being constantly frost-bitten, and
+at times taking five or ten minutes before the circulation could be
+thoroughly restored. Lieutenant Rawson had several small frost-bites,
+and I escaped with only one."
+
+On halting for the night, directly the tent was pitched they sent
+Petersen inside with strict injunctions to shift his foot gear and get
+into his sleeping-bag, whilst they busied themselves in preparing supper
+and attending to the dogs; but when they entered the tent, they found
+"that he had turned in without shifting his foot gear, was groaning a
+good deal, and complaining of cramp in the stomach and legs."
+
+Having made him change, they gave him some tea, and then administered a
+few drops of sal volatile, which appeared to give the poor fellow a
+little ease.
+
+The next morning the wind was so high and their patient in such a weak
+state that they did not think it prudent to attempt a start. He had
+passed a very restless night, and still complained very much of cramp.
+
+Later in the day he appeared to get worse, "shaking and shivering all
+over and breathing in short gasps. His face, hands, and feet were all
+frost-bitten, the latter severely, and he had pains in his side as
+well." After restoring the circulation they rubbed him with warm
+flannels and placed one of their comforters round his stomach.
+
+In such a wretched state was the poor fellow that they agreed it would
+endanger his life if they proceeded on their journey; and that when the
+weather moderated the only course they could pursue was to return with
+all haste to their ship.
+
+As it was impossible to keep their patient warm in the tent, these two
+young officers burrowed a hole in a snow-drift, and into this cavity
+they transported the sick man, themselves, and all their tent robes,
+closing the aperture by placing over it the tent and sledge. They
+deprived themselves of their own clothing for the benefit of the
+invalid, whose frozen feet they actually placed inside their clothes in
+direct contact with their bodies, until their own heat was extracted and
+they were themselves severely frost-bitten in various parts. The poor
+fellow was now in a very low state; he could retain neither food nor
+liquid. "About 6 P.M. he was very bad; this time worse than before.
+There appeared to be no heat in him of any kind whatever, and he had
+acute pains in the stomach and back. We chafed him on the stomach,
+hands, face, and feet, and when he got better wrapped him up in
+everything warm we could lay our hands upon," namely, their own
+clothing, which they could ill afford to lose; but they entirely forgot
+their own condition in their endeavours to ameliorate that of their
+comrade. Lighting their spirit lamp and carefully closing every crevice
+by which the cold air could enter, they succeeded in raising the
+temperature of the interior to 7 deg.; but "the atmosphere in the hut became
+somewhat thick!" This was, however, preferable to the intense cold. Let
+us follow the story out, and learn how nobly these two officers tended
+their sick and suffering companion. "We were constantly asking if he was
+warm in his feet and hands, to which he replied in the affirmative; but
+before making him comfortable" (fancy being _comfortable_ under such
+circumstances!) "for the night, we examined his feet, and found them
+both perfectly gelid and hard from the toes to the ankle, his hands
+nearly as bad. So each taking a foot we set to work to warm them with
+our hands and flannels, as each hand and flannel got cold _warming them
+about our persons_, and also lit up the spirit lamp. In about two hours
+we got his feet to, and put them in warm foot gear, cut his bag down to
+allow him more room to move in, and then wrapped him up in the spare
+coverlet. His hands we also brought round and bound them up in flannel
+wrappers, with mitts over all. Gave him some warm tea and a little rum
+and water, which he threw up. Shortly after I found him eating snow,
+which we had strictly forbidden once or twice before. In endeavouring to
+do this again during the night, he dragged his feet out of the covering;
+but only a few minutes could have elapsed before this was detected by
+Lieutenant Rawson, who, upon examining his feet, found them in much the
+same state as before. We rubbed and chafed them again for over an hour,
+and when circulation was restored wrapped him up again, and so passed
+the third night."
+
+The patience and endurance of the two officers are beyond all praise. It
+is difficult to realize the misery of that night. Wearied with the
+severe physical exertions of the two previous days, having their own
+meals to prepare and the dogs to look after, they had to pass a
+sleepless and anxious night in their endeavours to keep life in the body
+of their half-frozen comrade.
+
+On the following morning Petersen appeared to be slightly better, so
+thinking it was preferable to run the risk of taking him back as he was,
+than to pass such another night as the last, they put him on the sledge,
+and, having hurriedly eaten their breakfast, they started for the ship
+with all despatch. They had a rough journey before them of eighteen
+miles; but they knew it was a case of life and death, and they
+encouraged the dogs to their utmost speed. The dogs, being homeward
+bound, were willing enough and needed little persuasion, so that, for a
+time, they rattled along at a good pace. But actual progress could not
+have been very rapid, for we read in Egerton's report that the patient's
+"circulation was so feeble that his face and hands were constantly
+frost-bitten, entailing frequent stoppages whilst we endeavoured to
+restore the affected parts." The difficulties of the homeward journey
+may be gathered from the following extracts: "On arriving at the Black
+Cape we had to take the patient off the sledge, and while one assisted
+him round, the other kept the dogs back, for by this time they knew they
+were homeward bound, and required no small amount of trouble to hold in.
+After getting the sledge round and restoring Petersen's hands and nose
+(which were almost as bad again a few minutes after), and securing him
+on the sledge, we again set off. At the next cape the same difficulties
+were experienced, in fact rather more, for the sledge took charge down a
+'ditch,'[1] about twenty-five feet deep, turning right over three times
+in its descent, and out of which we had to drag it, and while clearing
+harness (which employed us both, one to stand in front of the dogs with
+the whip, while the other cleared the lines), the dogs made a sudden
+bolt past Lieutenant Rawson, who was in front with the whip, and dragged
+me more than a hundred yards before we could stop them. At length, after
+the usual process with Petersen (that of thawing his hands and nose,
+which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was actually necessary
+to stop), we got away, thankful that our troubles were over. The dogs
+got their harness into a dreadful entanglement in their excitement to
+get home; but we were afraid to clear them lest they should break away
+from us, or cause us any delay, as we were both naturally anxious to
+return with the utmost speed to the ship, and so relieve ourselves of
+the serious responsibility occasioned by the very precarious state in
+which our patient was lying. Upon arriving alongside at 6.30 P.M., we
+were very thankful that Petersen was able to answer us when we informed
+him he was at home."
+
+Poor fellow! it was the last home he ever reached alive, for in two
+short months his remains were carried from the ship and laid in their
+last resting-place in this world, on the summit of a low hill
+overlooking the scene of his last sledge journey! In conclusion, Egerton
+says, "I regret exceedingly that I have been compelled to return to the
+ship without having accomplished my journey to H.M.S. 'Discovery;' but I
+trust that what I have done will meet with your approval, and that the
+course I adopted may be the means of having lessened the very serious
+and distressing condition of Petersen." Gallant fellow! of course his
+doings meet not only with the approval but the admiration of all
+Englishmen who take pride in the noble and heroic deeds of their
+countrymen. The work of these two brave young officers on this occasion
+stands out conspicuously amongst the many deeds of daring and devotion
+with which the annals of Arctic adventure abound.
+
+It must be remembered that during the time they were away the sun had
+only just made its reappearance, and was therefore at a very low
+altitude, so that little benefit could be derived from its rays; and it
+only afforded sufficient light to enable the travellers to keep on the
+march for about eight or nine hours a day.[2] On the 20th of March, five
+days after the return from their calamitous journey, the same two
+officers made another and a more successful start. On this occasion they
+were accompanied by a couple of sailors, and their sledge was dragged by
+a team of seven dogs. In five days, after a severe and toilsome journey,
+rendered doubly so by the extreme cold and the heavy nature of the road
+over which they had to travel, they reached the "Discovery," conveying
+to her officers and crew the pleasing intelligence of our safety, and
+receiving in return an account of the happy winter passed by them.
+
+Poor Petersen never recovered from the effects of this journey. He
+rallied a little after he arrived on board, and was placed under the
+tender and skilful treatment of Dr. Colan, who for some time held out
+slight hopes of his recovery; but the injuries he had received were of
+too serious a nature to admit of much hope, and he gradually sank until
+he expired peacefully on the 14th of May. Perhaps it was better that it
+should be so, for the poor fellow would not only have been disfigured by
+losing portions of his nose and ears, but he would also have been a
+cripple, for the doctor had been compelled to amputate both his feet in
+order to stop the mortification from extending. These frost-bites are
+indeed very dreadful, and must always be quickly taken in hand so as to
+avoid any serious result.
+
+So cold were the frozen limbs of poor Petersen, that his companions said
+it was like touching cold steel, and produced frost-bite almost as
+rapidly as if they were really touching a piece of metal!
+
+Although this chapter is rather a mournful one, and has a very
+melancholy termination, I make no apology for having devoted it entirely
+to our first sledging expedition of the season, believing that my
+readers will feel both pride and pleasure in hearing of the noble
+conduct of my two messmates.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] By a "ditch" is meant a hollow formed between a high snow-drift
+    and a hummock or any projection. Some of these ditches were very
+    steep and precipitous.
+
+  [2] In previous expeditions parties have left their ships in March;
+    but the March of 75 deg. N. is very different from the March of 82 deg. N. In
+    the former position the sun has been many days longer above the
+    horizon than in 82 deg. N.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
+
+
+              "We are well persuaded
+  We carry not a heart with us from hence
+  That grows not in a fair consent with ours;
+  Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish
+  Success and conquest to attend on us."
+
+    _Henry V._
+
+On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of April, an unwonted bustle and
+excitement on board and around the "Alert" betokened that something
+unusual was taking place. Men in their travelling costumes might have
+been observed busily engaged in adding the last finishing touches to the
+already well-packed sledges. Officers, also in travelling attire, were
+carefully conveying delicate instruments from the ship to the row of
+sledges drawn up in "line of battle" on the floe, whilst the white
+ensign flying from the peak bore witness of some important event.
+
+The day was indeed one of memorable import, for it was the one that we
+had all, during the long dark winter, looked forward to as that on which
+our real work was to commence. It was the day on which we were to start
+forth with the object of achieving all that was possible with the means
+at our disposal, in the great and glorious work of increasing the stock
+of geographical knowledge respecting the Polar regions. No wonder,
+then, that the scene of our winter quarters presented an animated and
+unwonted appearance on that bright but intensely cold morning.
+
+The sledges, seven in number, on two of which were placed the boats to
+accompany the northern division, were drawn up in single line, one
+before the other, according to the seniority of their respective
+leaders. They were all fully equipped and provisioned, and were "manned"
+by a force of fifty-three officers and men; a chosen band, eager to
+emulate the deeds of their predecessors, and willing to risk their lives
+in bringing to a successful issue the task they had resolved to
+accomplish.
+
+A strict medical examination had been held a day or two previously, and
+the rather unnecessary question, "Do you feel yourself fit and able in
+every way to go sledging?" was put to all. It is needless to record the
+answer!
+
+On the previous day, being Sunday, Pullen preached a capital sermon,
+drawing comparisons between the undertaking in which we were about to
+engage, and the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land. The hymn
+"for those at sea" was sung and the Holy Communion celebrated, at which
+latter service there was an exceptionally good attendance, the number of
+communicants amongst the men having largely increased.
+
+From each sledge flew the bright colours of its commander's standard: a
+swallow-tailed flag bearing the armorial colours, and emblazoned with
+the crest of its owner, each charged with the red cross of St. George.
+In addition, the two boats displayed from their mast-heads Captain
+Nares's Union Jack and a white ensign. Worked by the fair hands of some
+loved and cherished one at home, these standards, as they fluttered out
+bravely before a gentle breeze, kindled our enthusiasm, whilst they
+materially added to the spirit and gaiety of the scene.
+
+The sledges were arranged in the following order:--"Marco Polo" (with a
+boat), "Challenger," "Victoria" (with a boat), "Poppie," "Bulldog,"
+"Alexandra," and "Bloodhound;" the latter was only a small sledge party
+ordered to accompany us for three or four days, then supply us with
+three days' provisions, and return to the ship to report our progress.
+
+At eleven o'clock, everything being in readiness for a start, all hands
+assembled on the floe, and prayers were read by Pullen. The hymn, "God,
+from whom all blessings flow," was then sung, after which the order was
+given to "fall in," and, amidst the hearty cheers of those few who were
+left behind, the sledging parties moved off. The captain and officers
+accompanied us for a short distance, when, wishing us Godspeed, they
+turned to go back. This was a signal for three cheers from the
+travellers, after which they settled down to their work, and the march
+was steadily commenced.
+
+The first day's march was necessarily a short one. It was to many their
+introduction to the "drag-ropes," and symptoms of fatigue were soon
+detected, caused by the energetic exertions of the inexperienced, who,
+unlike the veterans of the previous autumn, overtaxed their strength in
+their ardour to perform a good day's work.
+
+The temperature at starting was 33 deg. below zero, and at this it remained
+steady the whole day, rendering the task of writing up our journals when
+we halted extremely unpleasant and painful.
+
+The scene of our first encampment was an animated and picturesque one.
+We had marched about six miles from the ship, and the site selected was
+at the base of a low brow, forming a connection or isthmus between a
+long projecting tongue and the mainland. Here we pitched our seven
+tents, from each of which the smoke from the cooking utensils issued,
+ascending in spiral columns until lost amidst the clouds. In our rear
+were the snow-clad hills, whilst in front was the illimitable frozen
+sea. Men hurried about in the execution of various duties incidental to
+"pitching for the night," such as the issuing of provisions by the
+several sledge-captains, the banking up with snow of the exterior of the
+tents, the re-packing of the sledges, or the careful covering up of the
+lading so as to ensure its protection from snow-drift; all of which
+duties must be sedulously carried out before rest and repose can be
+sought in the sleeping-bags. A pleasing aroma of cooking tea was mixed
+with the fragrance of stewed pemmican, and made us smack our lips in
+anticipation of the meal that was preparing.
+
+Not the least hard part of a day's work is that of camping after a
+toilsome and weary journey, especially when the temperature is low and a
+cold sleepless night anticipated; but when the weather is warm enough to
+obtain a good night's rest, the order to halt is always received with
+very great satisfaction, more especially when a good day's work has been
+accomplished, with the prospect of fair travelling on the morrow.
+
+As soon as the tents are ready for the reception of the men, they enter
+one by one, take off their "overalls" for which their duffel coats are
+substituted, change their foot gear and get into their sleeping-bags.
+This change of foot gear in the morning and evening is the whole extent
+of the toilet performed by the sledgers until their return to the ship!
+
+The following morning we were under weigh pretty early, having spent a
+cold wretched night, only too glad to be up and doing something, the
+temperature inside our tent, with all the men in their bags, being as
+low as 15 deg. below zero. The experience gained during the autumn had a
+very salutary effect on the travellers, the apprehension even of
+frost-bite being in itself sufficient to banish all idea of sleep.
+
+The operation of dressing and undressing, although it is entirely
+limited to the clothing of the feet, is without doubt one of the most
+disagreeable duties connected with sledge travelling. Our hose and
+blanket-wrappers, although they were invariably kept _inside_ our
+sleeping-bags during the night, were frozen so hard in the morning that
+they were with the greatest difficulty folded over our feet. Sometimes
+the wrappers were tied round the knees at night-time to protect them
+from the cold, for that part of our body seemed more sensitive to the
+temperature than any other.
+
+Not the least trying part of our toilet was lacing and tying the stiffly
+frozen strings of our equally hard moccasins with fingers either aching
+from cold or devoid of all sensation. Not only was this a very painful
+operation, but it was one that sorely taxed and ruffled the equanimity
+of our tempers.
+
+The snow over which we travelled was very soft and, unfortunately for
+us, was also very deep, making the dragging with our heavily laden
+sledges most laborious, in fact so much so that we were frequently
+compelled to resort to "double banking;" that is to say, the two crews
+would be employed in first dragging on one sledge and then return to
+advance the other. This, of course, made our progress very slow. After
+the long confinement of the men during the darkness of the winter, they
+were, in spite of the careful attention that had been paid to daily
+exercise, hardly in what might be called first-rate condition, so that
+fatigue for the first few days was felt by the majority, and not wishing
+to impose too much on their zealous desire to push on, short journeys
+were in consequence performed.
+
+On the second day out, the temperature fell to 45 deg. below zero, or 77 deg.
+below freezing point. The cold then was so intense as to deprive us of
+sleep, the temperature _inside_ the tent being as low as -25 deg., the whole
+period of rest being occupied in attempting to keep the blood in
+circulation. Several frost-bites were sustained, but they were all
+attended to in time, and resulted in nothing worse than severe and very
+uncomfortable blisters.
+
+So hard were our tent robes and sleeping-bags frozen that they resembled
+sheet-iron, and care had to be taken to prevent them from coming into
+contact with the face, for an abrasion of the skin would undoubtedly
+follow!
+
+Our curry paste, a small quantity of which we used to mix with our
+pemmican to make it more palateable, looked, as the cook of the day
+observed, exactly like a piece of brass, and was equally hard. Cramp in
+the legs was complained of by many during the first few nights, but
+gradually wore off, having in all probability been induced by the severe
+and unaccustomed exercise. Thirst was also a subject of complaint, and
+this, except at meal times, it was impossible to alleviate; for
+although each man was supplied with a tin water-bottle covered with
+duffel, the water could not be prevented from freezing, in spite of the
+bottles being kept inside the waistbands of the men's trousers. The
+practice of quenching thirst by putting snow or ice into the mouth is a
+very dangerous one and was never permitted.
+
+On the fourth day out we parted with our little sledge, the
+"Bloodhound," which, having fulfilled its mission, returned to the ship,
+taking back one of our party, who appeared unable to stand the fatigues
+of sledging, and leaving one of their crew to fill his vacancy. We were
+thus able to send back intelligence of our progress so far, and to
+report the health of the men to be satisfactory, and that all were in
+capital spirits. On the 10th of April the six sledges in company arrived
+at the depot of provisions established near Cape Joseph Henry during the
+autumn, and found it undisturbed. The remainder of that day was employed
+in bringing the provisions off to the sledges, which were left on the
+ice, and in distributing them. The next morning was thick and foggy, the
+atmosphere being rendered doubly obscure by a heavy fall of snow.
+
+  "The cold, uncomfortable daylight dawned,
+   And the white tents, topping a low ground fog,
+   Show'd like a fleet becalmed."
+
+On this day the supporting sledges "Bulldog" and "Alexandra," having
+performed the duties allotted to them, bade farewell to their companions
+and returned to their ship. The two extended parties advanced on their
+solitary missions; the northern division leaving the land and pushing
+straight out on the rugged polar pack, whilst the western party
+continued the exploration of the coast to the westward.
+
+It was a strange farewell that was taken on that cold dull day on the
+inhospitable ice-floe, amidst bristling hummocks and heaped up
+snow-drifts, as the several parties pursued their different courses, one
+returning to their Arctic home, the others to unknown difficulties, but
+to hoped-for discoveries.
+
+Brief was the parting, but sincere were the wishes for each other's
+success. Hearty British cheers resounded in that icy wilderness,
+hitherto undisturbed by the presence of mortal man, as we bade adieu to
+our fellow-travellers, the echoes from which had scarce died away before
+their forms vanished from our view in the thick driving snow that
+shrouded in obscurity the surrounding objects.
+
+It was, however, no time for reflection; for now all our energies, both
+mental and physical, had to be devoted to the furtherance of the great
+work with which we were entrusted. The men resolutely seized their
+drag-ropes, and with light and willing hearts commenced their toilsome
+advance.
+
+In order to enable my readers to follow us during the time we were
+engaged in the sledging operations, I will endeavour to explain, as
+briefly as possible, the ordinary daily routine invariably carried out
+by those so employed belonging to the "Alert."
+
+The cook for the day is an important personage, and his duties, as I
+have before related, are of a very onerous and trying description. Each
+individual composing the sledge crew has to perform this office in turn
+during twenty-four hours, and it is one that sorely taxes his patience
+and powers of endurance, especially in very cold weather. He gladly
+transfers his functions as cook to his successor, happy in the
+assurance that his "turn" will not come round for another week, unless
+sickness or any other unforeseen event should prostrate any of his
+comrades.
+
+The cook's work commences at an early hour, when, after having lighted
+his lamp and converted sufficient ice or snow into water for the morning
+meal, he reenters the tent, and walking unconcernedly on the sleeping
+forms of his companions, proceeds deliberately to brush from the top and
+sides of the tent the condensed moisture that has been accumulating
+during the night, and which falls in minute frozen particles on the
+coverlet. This operation being concluded, to the no small relief of
+those over whom he has been walking, the coverlet is removed, well
+brushed, shaken, folded up, and placed on the sledge. He then busies
+himself with the important preparations for breakfast. In about two
+hours from the time that the cook is called, the cocoa is reported
+ready, when the rest of the party are awakened.
+
+If the weather is very cold, breakfast is discussed in our bags, in
+which we all sit up; a comical-looking lot in our grey skull-caps and
+duffel coats! The biscuit bag is then laid in the centre of the tent,
+spoons are produced, and the pannikins, each containing one pint of warm
+cocoa, are handed in. The only articles that were not considered as
+common property amongst us were our spoons. These were slightly larger
+than an ordinary table-spoon, were made of horn, and supplied to each
+sledger by a beneficent Government. We generally carried them slung
+round our necks by laniards, or in our pockets.
+
+The pannikins being emptied they are returned to the cook, who has in
+the mean time been preparing the pemmican. So hard is this article
+frozen that the portions for use have to be chipped off with a chopper
+before they can be put into the stew-pan.
+
+While the cook's anxiety is momentarily increased by the fear that his
+fuel will be consumed before the repast is prepared, and his fingers are
+alternately burnt and frost-bitten in his endeavours to trim and adjust
+the lamp, prayers are read to those inside, the foot gear is changed and
+the sleeping-bags rolled up. By the time this has been done, the
+pemmican is ready, passed in, and eaten. Orders are then given to strike
+tent, pack sledge, and prepare to march.
+
+The great secret in packing a sledge properly is to have the weights as
+nearly as possible in the centre--as far from the extremes as it is
+possible to get them, so that the sledge may rise easily over obstacles.
+When all is ready, the drag-ropes are manned, and with a "one, two,
+three, haul," and a good pull altogether, the sledge is started and the
+march commenced.
+
+Care should be taken to scrape the pannikins out with a knife, before
+the refuse inside has time to freeze, otherwise it will be difficult to
+remove. Water for washing purposes, of any description, whilst sledging
+is quite out of the question. After marching for about five or six
+hours, a halt is called for lunch. This meal consists of four ounces of
+bacon, a little biscuit, and a warm pannikin of tea to each man.
+
+Although the most refreshing and enjoyable of all our meals, luncheon
+was, when there was much wind, or the weather intensely cold, a very
+trying one. The halt is of necessity long. Frequently an hour or an hour
+and a half elapses before the tea is reported ready, during which time
+the men are compelled to keep constantly on the move to avoid
+frost-bites. When there is much wind the tent is pitched; but this adds
+little to our comfort, for it is too cold to remain inside for any
+length of time. If we were not all suffering from the same cause, we
+should be disposed to laugh at the strange antics of our companions in
+their efforts to keep their feet from getting frost-bitten. One man is
+"marking time" at the double; another jumping up and down in a frantic
+manner; another is sitting down cross-legged like a Turk, or a tailor,
+and is occupied in belabouring his feet with his mittened hands, in his
+energetic endeavours to restore circulation; whilst another, unable any
+longer to endure the cold, commences furiously to kick the sledge, or a
+hummock, with both feet like one bereft of his senses. Although halted,
+little rest is enjoyed; anxiously is the kettle watched, and many are
+the tender inquiries concerning the state of the water inside. "Does it
+boil?" is a question frequently asked, and unless the cook is blessed
+with an amiable disposition, the perversity of the kettle is sufficient,
+at times, to drive him almost distracted. The old saw, "A watched pot
+never boils," is fully exemplified. At length, to the relief and delight
+of all, the announcement is made that the tea is ready, when all
+troubles are forgotten in the pleasure and enjoyment of a warm pannikin
+of tea. Sometimes little difficulties would arise in consequence of the
+haste with which it was necessary to prepare and discuss this meal.
+These, although serious at the time, served afterwards to amuse, and
+were soon forgotten. On one occasion, the water having been boiled, and
+the cook having, as he thought, carefully added the tea and sugar, which
+were as carefully stirred up, the allowance of tea was served out and
+eagerly drunk by the wearied sledgers, who were only too glad and
+thankful to receive anything warm. It was not until some time after the
+allowance had been consumed that the cook discovered he had omitted to
+put in the _tea_, and had served out simply a decoction of warm water
+and brown sugar! Sometimes the tea was made from salt-water ice, the
+cook having inadvertently mixed it before tasting the water! In such a
+case we had either to drink it, or get none at all!
+
+Our bacon was, as a rule, frozen so hard as to be like a piece of
+granite, and it was only by thawing it in our warm tea that it became
+eatable. This had the effect of converting our tea into a sort of soup!
+
+The time of halting for the night varied considerably; but it was
+generally after ten, eleven, and sometimes twelve hours' steady
+marching. The first thing to be done is to select a suitable site as
+level as possible and where the snow is not too deep, for pitching the
+tent, which should be carefully banked up outside with snow to the
+height of two or three feet. Every one assists in this work except the
+cook, who is busily engaged in the necessary preparations for the
+evening meal. As soon as the tent is ready, the men enter, change their
+foot gear, and struggle into their half-frozen bags, their toes and feet
+having previously been examined by the officer for the detection of
+frost-bites. If a frost-bite is discovered, circulation is immediately
+restored, and the injured part dressed by the application of a little
+glycerine ointment and some lint.
+
+As a rule the moccasins, hose, and blanket wrappers are so firmly frozen
+together that they are with difficulty separated, and are taken off the
+feet as _one_ article of clothing. It is amusing to witness the frantic
+exertions made by some of the men in their efforts to struggle into
+their duffel coats. They are frozen so stiff and hard that this
+operation is always an intensely aggravating one, and even when it is
+accomplished, the men are utterly helpless until the warmth from their
+bodies has partially thawed the coats and rendered them supple. They
+were, with a very great deal of truth, likened to "strait-jackets."
+
+[Illustration: GETTING READY TO "BAG."]
+
+By the time that the whole party are comfortably settled in their bags,
+supper, consisting of tea and pemmican, is ready and served; after which
+pipes are lighted, conversation ensues, and the allowance of grog is
+served out. This is undoubtedly the most delightful and happiest part of
+the day's proceedings, and I should deprecate very strongly any attempts
+to deprive the poor Arctic sledger of his small modicum of rum and
+water, provided it was always issued at the same time as ours, and
+_never_ during the fatigue and exertions of the day. The quantity is so
+small that the most fanatical theorist cannot seriously maintain that it
+can do harm. But experience proves that it tends very materially to
+cheer and invigorate the men during the short time that they can really
+call their own in the whole twenty-four hours, and it certainly imparts
+a glow which induces sleep--a very important effect of its use.
+Sometimes singing will be the order of the day, or rather evening, or
+perhaps a book will be read aloud; but whatever amusement is resorted to
+for the purpose of thoroughly enjoying the half-hour after supper,
+whether it is singing, reading, or yarning, all are cheerful, contented,
+and happy.
+
+Home is, of course, a great topic of conversation, and what each man
+intends doing on his return to England is freely discussed. We know all
+about each other, and frequently detect ourselves confiding secrets that
+we should under ordinary circumstances divulge only to our bosom
+friends. Sometimes a hot argument is maintained between two men
+belonging to different counties on the relative merits of the pigs of
+their own counties and their manner of feeding; or perhaps they will get
+into a discussion on the liberality of large landed proprietors near
+whom they may be living. For instance, one man who lived in Devonshire
+was extolling Lord Mount Edgcumbe. "Ah! he was a noble lord! he opened
+his grounds once a week for the admission of the public." But another
+man, hailing from Lancashire, answered by saying, "He didn't see that he
+was any better than any other lord; for," he said, "Lord Derby admitted
+the public into his park every day, and if it was raining he would send
+his carriage for you!" This argument, although I fear not strictly
+correct, was unanswerable, and the west countryman had to give in to the
+more liberal experiences of his friend.
+
+Before composing ourselves to sleep, the cook, having made the necessary
+preparations for the morning's meal, passes in our coverlet. This is
+always the last thing done before closing the door of the tent for the
+night.
+
+How is it possible to describe what this coverlet is like when handed
+in? Those who have never been initiated into the mysteries of Arctic
+sledge life would be unable to realize what it resembles when unpacked
+from the sledge. It is more like a piece of wood or sheet-iron than an
+article of woollen material. With the utmost difficulty it is unfolded;
+but as for spreading, that is quite out of the question: it stands up in
+the centre like a second tent, and refuses to lie flat, in spite of the
+beating with which it is assailed. It is only after it has been some
+time in this position that it gradually thaws, when it becomes a "wet
+blanket" indeed!
+
+The contents of this chapter may give some idea of the ordinary routine
+of a sledge traveller's life. The details were invariably carried out
+by the different sledge parties despatched from the "Alert." In the
+succeeding chapter we will follow the fortunes of the northern division,
+and I shall endeavour to depict briefly the difficulties it had to
+contend with, and the manner in which they were surmounted.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL.
+
+
+  "These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways,
+   Draw out our miles and make them wearisome;
+   And yet your fair discourse hath been as sugar,
+   Making the hard way sweet and delectable....
+   But I bethink me, what a weary way!"
+
+     _Richard II._
+
+The different sledge parties having branched off, as related in the
+preceding chapter, I must request my readers to follow the fortunes of
+the northern division, which was under my command.
+
+The serious obstacles that so persistently impeded our progress were
+immediately encountered. The retreating forms of our comrades, who had
+assisted us thus far, were scarcely out of sight before we were busily
+engaged in constructing a road along which to drag our sledges. These
+roads were rendered necessary in consequence of the rugged nature of the
+ice over which we had to travel, the floes being of the smallest
+dimensions as regarded superficial area, and surrounded by broad fringes
+of squeezed-up hummocks. The hummocks proved most formidable impediments
+to our advance. No sooner had we congratulated ourselves upon
+successfully accomplishing a passage through one line of these
+obstacles, than ~~ 274 another, and perhaps a more ragged and
+apparently impassable hedge, appeared in front of us. It seemed as if a
+terrible conflict had been fought between these ponderous masses of ice,
+which had so shattered and split them up as to suggest to us the idea
+that they resembled a tempestuous broken sea suddenly frozen.
+
+[Illustration: OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS ON THE SEA ICE.
+
+Made by the Northern Sledging Party under the command of Commander A. H.
+MARKHAM.]
+
+To make any advance at all, pickaxes and shovels were in constant
+requisition, and with these implements we succeeded in hewing and
+cutting a road for our sledges, by which we were able to make a
+snail-like progress. The roughness of the road was not our only
+difficulty. Around and about the hummocks the snow had drifted to such a
+depth that the men were frequently floundering in it up to their waists,
+and passages through this had to be cleared with shovels before the
+sledges could be dragged on. Occasionally the sledges would have to be
+unpacked and lightened considerably before they could be dragged through
+this deep soft snow.
+
+We, at first, attempted to console ourselves with the idea that this
+irregular and broken sea of ice was only caused by our proximity to the
+land; and that we should, as we advanced in a northerly direction, meet
+with smooth level floes, on which we should be able to travel along
+merrily, and so make up for the time expended in struggling through the
+hummocks.
+
+How delusive proved our hopes and anticipations the sequel will show!
+The belts of hummocks that separated the floes varied from twenty yards
+to half a mile in breadth, and were from fifteen to fifty feet in
+height.
+
+Road-making, as we called it, was a work of daily, I may say of
+constant, occurrence. We regarded our pickaxes with great affection, and
+they were consequently treated with the utmost tenderness and care. Any
+mishap to them would have been indeed a serious misfortune, as we should
+have nothing to supply their place, and would therefore have been in a
+predicament in which we could neither advance nor return. The anxiety
+with which they were watched may therefore be imagined.
+
+Instead of giving simply a brief _resume_ of our sledging life, it will,
+I think, be more interesting to follow the sledge parties day by day in
+their arduous march to the northward, and their still more irksome and
+wearisome return journey. To do this, it will be as well to extract
+portions from my daily journal, avoiding repetition as much as possible,
+and commencing on the day after that on which we were left by our
+supporting sledges to prosecute our undertaking.
+
+_April 12th._--A most gratifying and unexpected change of weather
+enabled us to pass a comparatively comfortable night, the temperature
+inside our tent being as high as +16 deg.. Hitherto it has stood at, and
+generally far below, zero. With the thermometer in the air registering a
+few degrees below zero, it is just possible to keep ourselves warm
+enough inside our tents to sleep; but with a temperature ranging from
+-35 deg. downwards sleep is almost out of the question.
+
+In order to keep the sun as much as possible at our backs during the
+time we were on the march, we adopted the system of travelling, whilst
+on our outward journey, between noon and midnight. The cooks were, as a
+rule, called at about half-past nine in the forenoon, and the sledges
+were generally on the move about half-past eleven. This time of
+travelling was selected more with a view to the prevention of snow
+blindness than anything else.
+
+After breakfast the road-makers, six in number, were advanced for the
+purpose of constructing a road through an ugly fringe of hummocks on the
+southern side of which our camp had been pitched; the rest of the party
+being employed in striking the tents, packing and bringing on the
+sledges, one by one, as far as the road was practicable. Being a bright
+sunny day the tent robes and other gear were triced up to the boats'
+masts and yards to dry. The sun was powerful enough to extract the
+moisture from the woollen substance, which would freeze, forming a sort
+of hoar-frost that could with ease be brushed or shaken off.
+
+On these bright clear days, the snow on the surface of the floes over
+which we were journeying was so highly crystallized that it sparkled and
+glittered with the most brilliant iridescent colours. The ground upon
+which we trod appeared to be strewn with bright and lustrous gems, of
+which the most prominent were diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires.
+It was indeed a fairy-like scene; but our duties were too matter of fact
+to admit of our indulging for any time in romance or sentiment.
+
+A glance at our comrades would quickly recall us to the reality of our
+situation. Their dirty and rough-clad forms were strangely at variance
+with the scene of enchantment that might be conjured up. With faces
+scarified by the combined action of sun and frost, and black with smoke,
+with the tips of their fingers senseless from repeated frost-bites, with
+sore shoulders and aching limbs, the wearied sledgers pursued their way,
+not altogether indifferent to the beauties that surrounded them, but
+careless of the difficulties and discomforts they encountered.
+
+During the afternoon, being about three miles from the nearest land, we
+observed, to our surprise, the fresh traces on the snow of a little
+lemming! It is hard to tell what inducement this little animal could
+have had for straying so far away from the land, and consequently from
+its means of obtaining the wherewithal to support life!
+
+We passed through a dense mass of hummocks, emerging, eventually, on a
+heavy floe of "ancient lineage," whose surface was undulating, and
+adorned with veritable "ice-mountains" some twenty feet in height. These
+were generally of a rounded form and of a smooth surface, and appeared
+to be the result of long and continuous snow-drift. We camped on the
+northern edge of the floe, the men being employed in cutting a road
+through the hummocks whilst supper was preparing, in readiness for our
+start on the morrow.
+
+A journey through, and over, hummocks is the most unsatisfactory kind of
+travelling that can possibly be imagined. "Standing pulls" must be the
+order of the day, and the incessant "one, two, three, haul" is
+constantly heard. The trudging backwards and forwards to drag the
+different sledges to the front along the same road is decidedly
+monotonous; but this had no effect on the cheerfulness and general good
+spirits of the men, who were all actuated by the same zealous desire to
+do their best. The temperature all day had been delightful, ranging from
+8 deg. to 20 deg. below zero.
+
+_April 13th._--A dull, cloudy day, with the sun shining at intervals,
+and the temperature as low at one time as -33 deg.. We cut a road and
+dragged the sledges through a fringe of hummocks about two hundred yards
+in breadth, then crossed a fine large floe that afforded us capital
+travelling for nearly a mile in a northerly direction, then through
+another long fringe of large and troublesome hummocks, until we were
+completely brought to a standstill by a mass of enormous fragments of
+ice, piled up in an irregular form to the height of from twenty to
+thirty feet. Through this obstacle we resolved to cut a road: in fact,
+no other alternative offered. It was a long and tedious job; but with
+such a hearty good will did the men work that we had the satisfaction of
+dragging our sledges over a very rough road and encamping for the night
+with the difficulties in our rear. Parr with pickaxe and shovel was a
+first-rate "navvy," and worked like a horse.
+
+Our routine was for one or other of us to select the best route through
+the hummocks. This being done, one, with a gang of road-makers,
+proceeded to construct the road, whilst the other, with the remainder of
+the party, dragged the sledges on one by one. Great care had to be taken
+that our boats, on the exceedingly rough road over which they were
+dragged, did not sustain any injury. Sometimes it was a very delicate
+matter, and one that required skilful handling, after the sledges had
+been hauled up to the top of the hummocks, to lower them down in safety
+on the opposite side. The ease and facility with which the ice yielded
+to the dexterous blows of the pickaxes, wielded by strong and determined
+men, was almost incredible. Apparently impenetrable masses of ice
+vanished before their efforts, and left a fairly good road by which we
+advanced.
+
+_April 14th._--Last night our sleeping-bags were frozen so hard that it
+was with great difficulty we succeeded in getting into them. Even when
+this was accomplished, the warmth we derived from them was
+inappreciable, and we felt more as if we were confined in a wooden box
+or coffin than in a woollen bag! My blanket wrappers, although I laid on
+them all night, were so stiff this morning that I had the utmost
+difficulty in bending them over my feet! Being Good Friday, our prayers
+in the morning were of longer duration than usual.
+
+[Illustration: INTERIOR OF TENT.]
+
+Crossed an old floe having a hard incrustation on its surface--not
+sufficiently strong, however, to bear the weight either of the men or
+the sledges; consequently at every step we broke through, and would
+then sink deeply into soft snow. This was not only very laborious but
+very aggravating work.
+
+[Illustration: A PACKED SLEDGE.]
+
+On portions of the road, where these patches of level soft snow
+occurred, the flat-bottomed taboggans, used in the Hudson Bay Company's
+territory, would be suitable. But the greater part of the road was over
+heavy broken-up hummocks and hard fragments of ice, lying at all kinds
+of angles; on the whole we found the eight-men high-runner sledge which
+we used, and which was originally designed by Sir Leopold McClintock,
+infinitely preferable. Long experience has conclusively proved its
+excellence. It was the kind of sledge with which the North West Passage
+was discovered and the Parry Islands explored, and with us it once more
+did most admirable service in many directions, and over the roughest
+ground imaginable.
+
+The temperature was too low to allow us to stop for the purpose of
+obtaining a meridian altitude, which we invariably get at noon. There
+was an unpleasant nipping breeze from the northward; our faces, more
+especially our noses, being "touched up" constantly by Jack Frost.
+
+The floes off Cape Joseph Henry, although actually smaller than most of
+those we have crossed, were far more heavy. In all probability they are
+reduced in size by great and continual pressure off the cape. The wind
+freshening, and the weather becoming very thick, we halted an hour
+earlier than we otherwise would have done.
+
+John Shirley, one of my sledge crew, complained of pains in his ankles
+and knees. On examination they appeared slightly swollen, and I treated
+him according to the instructions laid down for the guidance of the
+sledging officers by our doctor.
+
+Although at the time ignorant of the fact, this was the first appearance
+of that dreadful disease, scurvy, which shortly afterwards laid its
+destroying hand upon us, and reduced us to such a helpless and prostrate
+state. From this day we were deprived of the services of Shirley, who
+gradually but surely got worse, and was never again able to render the
+slightest assistance even in the most minute details of our routine.
+
+_April 15th._--A N.W. gale, with an exceedingly low temperature, and an
+impervious snow-drift, rendered travelling quite out of the question.
+
+Extreme wretchedness, I might almost say abject misery, was our lot
+to-day.
+
+We appeared to receive little benefit, in the way of warmth, from our
+tent robes, and the temperature inside our tent, with our whole party
+huddled close together, was 22 deg. below zero! Gladly would we have pushed
+on had it been possible. A hard day's work, even amongst the most
+impenetrable hummocks, would have been infinitely preferable to our
+present forced detention and inactivity. Unable to stir outside the
+tent, on account of the blinding snow-drift that was whirling around,
+too cold to read or even to sit up in one's bag for the sake of
+conversation, tent robes and bags frozen hard--a combination of these
+evils renders the position of those who suffer from them an unenviable
+one indeed. It is a remarkable fact that we this day experienced a lower
+temperature during a gale of wind than we did during the whole winter at
+the "Alert's" winter quarters. This appears to point conclusively to the
+fact that there can be no large body of water either to the northward or
+westward of us.
+
+The thermometer invariably rose during the southerly gales experienced
+in the winter, and this was very naturally attributed to the wind
+blowing across a large expanse of open water.
+
+_April 16th._--Easter Sunday.
+
+The gale, although it had moderated, was still blowing too fiercely to
+allow us to proceed. We were therefore compelled, sorely against our
+inclination, to remain encamped. We unanimously came to the conclusion
+that this was by far the most wretched and miserable Easter Sunday that
+we had ever spent. Forty-eight hours in a gale of wind, tied up in a bag
+off the most northern known land, with a temperature 67 deg. below freezing
+point, is certainly not the most pleasant manner that any one would
+select for passing an Easter Sunday!
+
+For forty hours I did not have the slightest feeling in my feet, and
+could not really declare that I was in possession of those useful
+members--as for sleep, under the circumstances, that was quite out of
+the question. In spite of the cold and dismal surroundings, we did not
+neglect last evening the usual Saturday night's toast, on receipt of our
+small allowance of grog. It most decidedly had the effect of cheering us
+up considerably, and for the time assisted in making us forget the
+discomfort of our position. At half-past four in the afternoon, the wind
+having subsided, it was determined to make a move. We felt that anything
+was preferable to the tedium and dreariness of our compulsory detention.
+The tents were accordingly struck, sledges packed, and the march
+renewed. Shirley, being unable to walk, was placed in his sleeping-bag,
+rolled up in the tent robes, and tied securely on one of the sledges.
+This seriously added to the weight to be dragged, whilst it also reduced
+our motive power; however, we hoped that by thus giving him complete
+rest, he would the more rapidly recover and resume his place on the
+drag-ropes.
+
+Alas! how little did we think that the fearful and wasting disease, the
+premonitory symptoms of which were now exhibited, would insidiously
+steal its way amongst us, and assailing the party one by one reduce us
+so disastrously as to bring us to the verge of destruction!
+
+We cut our way through a hedge of hummocks about one-third of a mile in
+breadth, and then on to a floe apparently of great thickness; but,
+unfortunately for us, not more than three hundred yards across. Between
+these stupendous floes we would occasionally meet with some young ice
+amongst the hummocks which, when it trended in the right direction,
+would afford us easy travelling; but these leads were never of any
+extent.
+
+The gale had accumulated the snow in deep drifts, which rendered the
+task of dragging the sledges harder than ever. Our progress was
+necessarily slow. We halted and encamped at half-past ten. The men
+appeared to be more easily fatigued after lying so long idle in their
+bags than if they had performed a hard day's work. Our camp this evening
+was pitched almost abreast of Cape Joseph Henry, though some miles off
+it.
+
+When viewed from seaward, or more correctly speaking, "iceward," this
+headland presents a bold and rugged appearance, rising nearly
+perpendicular from base to summit, to a height of about eight hundred
+feet, whence the land recedes, gradually ascending until it culminates
+in a peak about three or four hundred feet higher. It appears to be of
+limestone formation, with regular stratifications dipping to the
+southward at an angle of 6 deg. to 10 deg. from the horizontal. The Cape itself
+terminates in a knife-like edge from summit to base, in shape very much
+resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad. Conical Hill, situated
+immediately to the southward of Cape Joseph Henry, when observed on the
+same bearing, presents more the form of a hog's back than a cone, but
+possesses the same bold, rugged aspect. It is about the same height as
+the peak surmounting Cape Joseph Henry, and is of the same formation;
+but, unlike its neighbour, the strata dip to the southward at an angle
+of about 6 deg. or 10 deg. from the vertical, giving it altogether a rather
+distorted appearance. There is a great deal of similarity in the
+surrounding hills, all being more or less coniform, and of an altitude
+of from one to two thousand feet.
+
+_April 17th._--Shirley no better this morning, and to add to our
+troubles, George Porter, one of Parr's sledge crew, was also suffering
+in the same manner from swollen and puffy knee joints.
+
+Two men _hors de combat_ out of our little force diminishes our strength
+very materially, and as they have both to be carried on the sledges it
+adds seriously to the weights to be dragged. The morning was bright and
+sunny, with a temperature as high as 24 deg. below zero, so we congratulated
+ourselves that it was now really on the turn, and that we should no
+longer encounter any more extreme cold. The men take kindly to their
+snow-goggles, and never attempt to take them off whilst on the
+march--perhaps my expatiating largely on the excruciating agony and
+acute pain inseparable from snow blindness, is in some way connected
+with their submissiveness in this respect! Alfred Pearce was, yesterday,
+rather severely frost-bitten on one of his fingers; but circulation was
+rapidly restored, and to-day, with the exception of a little soreness,
+he suffers no ill effects from it. The travelling to-day was nearly a
+repetition of what we had hitherto been encountering: large masses of
+ice thickly compacted together, squeezed up into every conceivable, but
+indescribable, shape and form to a height of about twenty-five feet; but
+these had to succumb to the strenuous exertions of Parr and his
+indefatigable road-makers.
+
+Energy and perseverance performed wonders. The men worked uncommonly
+well--my only fear was that they would overtax their strength. Poor
+fellows! they get little rest during the day, for even when we halt for
+lunch, they are compelled to be continually on the move to keep their
+blood in circulation. To sit or lie down for any length of time would be
+fatal. No wonder, then, they are fatigued at the end of the day's work.
+
+Some of the floes over which we travelled to-day were of greater
+thickness than others, and it was no unfrequent occurrence for us to
+drop a height of six or seven feet from the top of one floe to the
+surface of another; or, _vice versa_, to have to haul the sledges up the
+same height. This was no easy work with our heavily laden sledges and
+boats. Snow commenced falling at 3 P.M., and continued all night.
+
+_April 18th._--The old story last night with our sleeping-bags! So hard
+were they frozen that it occupied us a considerable time before we could
+struggle into them. The night, however, was not so cold, and we
+succeeded in sleeping pretty comfortably. Before starting this morning
+we lightened our heavy sledge by making a redistribution of the weights
+on all three sledges. By these means we hoped to be able to get on a
+little better.
+
+We found the helmet worsted caps that were so kindly given to us by the
+Empress very warm and comfortable for sleeping in. They are much
+appreciated by the men, who call them "Eugenies," and they constantly
+refer with gratitude to her Majesty's kind and thoughtful present.
+
+The travelling to-day was excessively heavy, in consequence of the
+unevenness of the floes and the deep soft snow with which they were
+covered. After lunch we arrived at and crossed some "veritable
+palaeocrystic floes"--apparently of gigantic thickness, and studded with
+numerous rounded snow hillocks; the height of some of the latter being
+as much as thirty feet above the surface of the floe. In crossing one of
+these, the "Victoria" sledge capsized, but was soon righted without
+damaging either the sledge or the boat, or injuring the invalid who was
+lashed on top, and who received only a slight shaking. As we proceeded
+northwards we opened out the land to the westward, and a large bay which
+has since been called Clements Markham Inlet. A S.E. breeze sprang up in
+the evening shortly before we halted, which, strange to say, sent the
+temperature down rapidly to -33 deg., and we had, in consequence, to be
+cautious about frost-bites.
+
+_April 19th._--A fine clear day. Our bags last night were rendered a
+little more habitable by having been exposed during the day to the heat
+of the sun, which was sufficiently powerful to extract the greater part
+of the moisture which had been absorbed by them. Our plan is on fine
+days to suspend as much as we possibly can from the masts and yards of
+the boats, and to spread the gear out over the sledges, so that it may
+dry as we travel along. This answers admirably and enables us to pass
+more comfortable nights.
+
+After toiling hard for three and a half hours, during which time we had
+advanced the sledges barely a quarter of a mile, I came to the
+determination to abandon our largest boat. It was heart-breaking to
+witness the men slaving in their endeavours to drag on the heavy sledge
+and boat--to see the continual standing pulls, the incessant "one, two,
+three, haul," and no result.
+
+I did not arrive at this decision until after very mature deliberation.
+My conviction was that amongst such ice as that over which we were
+travelling, should a disruption occur, our boats would be of little
+service to us, except as a means of ferrying from one floe to another.
+For this purpose I retain the smaller boat.
+
+Leaving the boat in as conspicuous a position as possible, with her mast
+stepped and yard triced up, and having obtained a round of angles in
+order to fix her position, so as to facilitate our finding her on the
+return journey, the march was resumed, every one well pleased at being
+rid of the incubus, as the large boat was always regarded. We travelled
+over deep and uneven snow ridges, and experienced great difficulty in
+getting from one floe to another, on account of the perpendicular drop.
+Before halting we got on to some young ice amongst the hummocks, along
+which we rattled gaily, actually performing a distance of about half a
+mile in something like two hours! This is good work for us. It must be
+remembered that we have to advance _three_ sledges, and to do this we
+have to walk over the same road five times!
+
+If our invalids would only show some symptoms of improvement we should
+have more hope of reaching a higher latitude; but at present they
+compensate in weight and loss of power for the abandonment of the boat.
+I regard each man carried as about 200 lbs. extra weight, and the loss
+of their services on the drag-ropes is about equal to another 200 lbs.
+weight to be added--therefore the two invalids reckon as much as 800
+lbs., exactly equivalent to the weight of the deserted boat! So long as
+they remain ill, we gain nothing upon the actual weights dragged before
+their sickness commenced. Instead of their getting better, we have the
+prospect of an increased sick list, for this evening Alfred Pearce was
+compelled to fall out from the drag-ropes, suffering from a badly
+swollen ankle, and exhibiting in fact the same symptoms as the other
+men.
+
+_April 20th._--This morning we were unable to make a start in
+consequence of the thickness of the weather. Snow was falling slightly,
+but the fog was so dense that it was impossible to see the length of the
+sledge ahead. As I had brought with me one of Dickens's works, "The Old
+Curiosity Shop," I read aloud to the men, who were much interested in
+the story.
+
+By 2 P.M., the weather having cleared slightly, we determined to push on
+and find our way through the fog and hummocks as best we could. The snow
+was very deep and the hummocks appeared to be interminable. The task of
+selecting a road was by no means easy--nothing to be seen but hummocks
+in every direction. At eight o'clock, the fog lifting a little, we
+succeeded in extricating ourselves from our difficulties, and crossing a
+large heavy floe got on to a lead of young ice which gave us good
+travelling. Although this young ice enabled us to travel quicker, and
+rendered the work of dragging easier, still I was sorry to see it, as I
+was rather apprehensive that the pack might break up earlier than we
+anticipated, and so place us in an exceedingly awkward predicament. We
+halted and camped at half-past ten, having (considering the lateness of
+our start) performed a fair day's work.
+
+_April 21st._--A keen piercing wind from the northward. Travelling much
+the same. Although the temperature was only 17 deg. below zero, the cold was
+more intense than we had yet felt it since leaving the ship. The wind
+seemed to cut us in two, and was the cause of numerous superficial
+frost-bites. One man, Thomas Simpson, was rather severely frost-bitten
+in the big toe, which was, however, quickly attended to and brought
+round.
+
+Our greatest enemies, whilst crossing a floe of any extent, were the
+numberless cracks and fissures in the ice, radiating in all directions
+and treacherously concealed by a covering of snow. Into these we
+frequently fell, and as some of them were of great depth it seemed
+almost miraculous that we escaped without a fractured limb! These cracks
+must be produced either by enormous pressure or intense cold.
+
+_April 22nd._--The wind blew in heavy squalls last night, and continued
+fresh this morning; but as we all dreaded a longer detention in our tent
+we resolved to push on at all hazards.
+
+It was painful to witness the efforts of the poor fellows in their
+endeavours to protect their faces from the cold cutting wind as they
+plodded along, dragging the heavily laden sledges; but they seemed
+cheerful enough, and treated the numerous frost-bites that appeared on
+their cheeks as rather a good joke than anything else. The sun peeped
+out for a few moments during the afternoon; but a heavy mist hung over
+the land, entirely obscuring it from our view. The floes over which we
+travelled to-day were more level than any we had yet crossed, and
+infinitely larger; but as a set-off against this, we found the snow very
+deep, which rendered the dragging excessively laborious. Few hummocks
+adorned the edges of these floes. They appeared to have come into
+contact with each other in a most amicable manner, and then immediately
+united before any pressure could be exerted, so as to form the immense
+hedges of heaped-up masses of ice that have hitherto been our great
+bugbear. One floe crossed to-day was estimated at about a mile and
+three-quarters in length, and about six miles in circumference.
+
+_April 23rd._--Progressing but slowly. The travelling was very heavy,
+through deep soft snow, and we were delayed considerably by being
+obliged to make roads over broad belts of heavy hummocks.
+
+We camped for the night on the verge of a floe, with enormous hummocks
+squeezed up together immediately in front. The prospect of advancing was
+not cheering! A S.E. breeze, springing up in the afternoon, sent the
+temperature down suddenly to -24 deg.. Our invalids did not appear to be
+improving, and we were rather puzzled at some of their symptoms.
+
+_April 24th._--The greater part of the day was employed in cutting a
+road through a perfect sea of hummocks. They appeared to be
+interminable. From the highest we could see nothing like a floe, nothing
+but an uneven range of massive and shapeless blocks of ice. The
+road-making was very hard and _very_ cold work, and the men had to be
+relieved pretty often with the tools.
+
+Skill is of more avail at this sort of work than brute force. A skilled
+workman will soon demolish a large hummock, on which a strong but
+inexperienced man is wasting all his energy and strength in fruitless
+blows.
+
+We had the satisfaction to-day of crossing the eighty-third parallel of
+latitude,[1] and of knowing that we were the first party of men that
+had ever reached such a high position. The wind to-day, although
+decidedly unpleasant, was of some service, for being from the southward
+we were able to make sail on our sledges and thus utilize the otherwise
+unwelcome breeze.
+
+_April 25th._--A beautiful day, but with a low temperature. A slight
+breeze from the eastward reminded us that we possessed noses. These
+latter appendages have been voted decided nuisances, and could easily be
+dispensed with whilst sledging! The travelling to-day was a slight
+improvement on our preceding day's work. Indeed at one time we were able
+to advance our two light sledges "single banked," that is with their own
+individual crews, instead of employing both crews to drag on one sledge
+at a time; but this was only for a very short distance. The snow was
+very deep and of a tenacious consistency, clinging to the sledge runners
+and thereby seriously impeding our progress. So powerful were the rays
+of the sun this afternoon that my thermometer, when exposed to them,
+rose rapidly from -17 deg. to -3 deg.. At 6 P.M. I observed faint parhelia
+showing prismatic colours. We were delayed towards the end of the day by
+a broad belt of hummocks, through which a road had to be cut. The large
+hummocks passed to-day, although smooth and rounded on the top and on
+one side, were precipitous on the other and were fully thirty feet high.
+Some of them appeared like isolated fragments in the centre of a floe,
+and resembled the large grounded floe-bergs in the vicinity of the
+"Alert's" winter quarters. They were undoubtedly portions of the floe
+which had been broken off and squeezed up under irresistible pressure.
+
+_April 26th._--Temperature to-day as high as -2 deg.. For the first time,
+since we have been away, were we able thoroughly to enjoy our lunch. On
+account of the increased warmth, our bacon was more palateable, and we
+could throw our wearied forms on the soft snow and discuss our pint of
+tea without running the risk of having our toes frost-bitten. The
+sensation of possessing feet was a novel and delightful one. Several of
+the men have of late been attacked by violent bleedings of the nose; but
+this, in all probability, is due to the rise of temperature. No
+improvement in our travelling--still the same old story--hummocks and
+snow-drifts, snow-drifts and hummocks. So dense were the latter that,
+when we halted for the night, it really seemed as if we had arrived at
+"the end of all things;" for in front of us was an apparently impassable
+sea of hummocks extending north, east, and west as far as the range of
+vision. A dismal prospect, indeed! But we did not despair, and still
+hoped we might cut our way through these obstacles, and emerge upon
+floes along which we should have little difficulty in advancing.
+
+_April 27th._--A hard day's work! Road-makers incessantly employed, and
+the sledges "double banked" the whole day, progress being necessarily
+slow. Our invalids showed no signs of amendment, indeed two others
+exhibited symptoms of the same disease; for such it appears to be.
+
+Another great misfortune that happened was that both our shovels came to
+grief--the handles breaking off at the junction between the wood and
+iron. We, however, succeeded in "fishing" and thus rendering them
+serviceable. We should be in a sorry plight if any accident happened to
+our pickaxes as well as to our shovels. As an instance of the amount of
+walking we had to perform, I may mention that to-day I had, of
+necessity, to cross the same floe, on which the snow was knee-deep, no
+less than thirteen times, "and didn't I hate that blackguard floe!"
+
+_April 28th._--The temperature actually rose as high as +2 deg.! This is the
+first day that we have registered the thermometer above zero! It is a
+decided improvement.
+
+Last night, inside my tent, the temperature was as high as 33 deg., and, in
+spite of a hard day's work, we were all busily employed, after supper
+was over, in some way or another. A couple were splicing lanyards in
+their drag-belts; one was tailoring; another repairing his moccasins;
+one was darning his mitts, and another patching up his stockings with an
+old blanket wrapper; whilst I was both reading aloud and dressing and
+bandaging my patients' legs. All were smoking except myself. The effect
+in a small confined tent may be imagined!
+
+Two of the men, who are not tobacco smokers, smoked what they called
+"herb" tobacco, which diffused a rather pleasing aroma, and served to
+deaden the unpleasantness of the tobacco smoke. It is composed of
+various dried aromatic herbs, and is, I believe, recommended by the
+faculty for many disorders.
+
+The travelling was as bad as ever--through heavy hummocks and deep
+snow-drifts. We had the misfortune to capsize the sledge, on which was
+one of the invalids; but a slight delay was the only inconvenience
+caused. The weather in the afternoon became very thick, making it
+extremely difficult to select a route. Everything was of one uniform
+colour: above, below, behind, and before; all was alike, and it was
+quite impossible to tell whether we were going up or down hill until a
+fall would inform us of the fact. To our great surprise, this evening,
+we came across the traces of a hare in the soft snow. They were
+apparently recent, and travelling in a southerly direction. The little
+creature was evidently very tired, as the footsteps appeared to be close
+together. Poor Pussy! it must have wandered out on the floe and lost
+itself, for we were quite seventeen miles from the nearest land. I have
+no doubt, if we had followed up the track, that we should have found the
+poor little animal lying dead or exhausted under some hummock, famished
+for want of food.
+
+_April 29th._--Small floes surrounded with high hummocks and covered
+with deep snow, were still encountered, with occasionally a short lead
+on some young ice that we sometimes met twining round the larger floes.
+It was difficult to account for the presence of so much young ice, and I
+can only suggest that, after the disruption in the summer, the pack
+remained some length of time in a quiescent state, and so allowed the
+young ice to form between the floes; for if once in motion, no ice of a
+single season's formation could withstand the tremendous pressure that
+would be exerted by these stupendous floes, but must inevitably be
+pulverized and broken up into small fragments. Our wretched cook last
+night made our tea and cooked our pemmican with the water obtained from
+salt-water ice. We all in consequence suffered from intense thirst,
+without being able to obtain anything to alleviate it.
+
+_April 30th._--After halting last night the wind freshened into a gale,
+the clouds thickened, and snow began to fall heavily, and this
+continued all day without intermission, so much so that we were unable
+to make a start. It was impossible to see the length of the sledge
+ahead, and, surrounded as we were by hummocks, it would have been folly
+to have attempted a move. We consoled ourselves by saying that the rest
+would do us good, and that the invalids more especially would benefit by
+it.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+   [1] By the Act of Parliament (58 Geo. III. cap. xx.) passed in 1818,
+     a reward of L1000 was assigned to any one who should cross the
+     latitude of 83 deg. N. But in 1828 this Act for the encouragement of
+     Polar discovery was repealed by 9 Geo. IV. cap. lxvi.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.
+
+
+  "And here on snows, where never human foot
+   Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread
+   And leave no traces, o'er the savage sea,
+   The glassy ocean of the mountain ice;
+   We skim its rugged breakers, which put on
+   The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam
+   Frozen in a moment."
+
+     BYRON.
+
+_May 1st._--A fine sunny morning ushered in the month of May, all the
+more appreciated in consequence of the enforced idleness of the
+preceding day. The bright sun had a wonderful effect upon us all. It
+seemed to cheer and invigorate our spirits, whilst it stimulated us to
+renewed exertions in our endeavours to reach as high a northern latitude
+as possible. Our invalids, however, were very faint and weak. They
+exhibited no favourable symptoms of improvement, and were a great clog
+and drawback to our progress. With our diminished crews we found it hard
+work to drag the sledges over the rough hummocky road, and through the
+deep soft snow-drifts that were constantly met. Road-making became a
+necessary part of the daily routine. Floes of any extent were rarely
+seen, and we had to thread our way through a perfect labyrinth of
+piled-up masses of ice, with little or no prospect of its improving. It
+was a dreary and wild-looking scene: no living thing in sight but our
+own little party, no colour or object to relieve the eye; nothing but a
+chaotic and illimitable sea of ice. Sometimes a fog was observed
+gradually rolling itself towards us, like a large mantle, until we were
+completely enveloped in its dense folds; when, continuing its onward
+course, it would roll as rapidly away, leaving a bright luminous band
+stretching across the horizon in the direction whence it had come.
+
+_May 2nd._--Although we had been told that there was not the slightest
+chance of our being attacked with scurvy, still, from the utter
+prostration of our invalids, combined with other symptoms, we were
+almost inclined to believe that we were really afflicted with this dire
+and wasting disease. It was a terrible idea that forced itself upon us,
+and one that we were loath to indulge in; but we feared that the
+symptoms pointed unmistakeably to the fact that this fearful disease, so
+dreaded by the mariners of old, was gradually but surely laying its hand
+upon us, completely prostrating those it attacked and rendering them
+helpless from pain and exhaustion. Parr and myself spoke of it only when
+we were by ourselves, as we considered it of the utmost importance that
+the men should remain in ignorance as long as possible, and not even
+suspect the nature of the disease which had crippled so many of their
+number. Swollen joints and discolouration of the skin, attended with
+faintness and great weakness, were the principal symptoms. Great as were
+the natural difficulties which surrounded us, still, should our surmise
+be correct, we could not but regard this as the most formidable of all
+obstacles to our advance that could possibly be imagined. Our only hope
+was that the five men now afflicted might, through their habits or
+disposition, have been more prone to the attacks of this insidious
+disease, than the remainder of our party, who, we hoped, might escape
+scathless. We camped this evening amidst a pile of hummocks, after one
+of the hardest day's work we have yet performed. So rough was the road
+and so deep was the snow that the sledges could only be advanced by
+"standing pulls." This was disheartening, for we had all been cherishing
+the hope that as we advanced northwards we should find larger and more
+level floes and less snow; the reverse, however, was the case. Several
+times did one or other of us disappear through deep rents in the floe,
+but we always succeeded in scrambling up again unhurt.
+
+_May 3rd._--A dull, dark, foggy day rendered it extremely difficult to
+select our road, and we were occasionally compelled to unload the
+sledges before they could be dragged through the deep soft snow-drifts
+which were continually met across our route, making the work all the
+more hard and distressing. The fog persistently hung over us all day;
+but was not sufficiently dense to retard our progress altogether, though
+it materially increased our labours and augmented our difficulties.
+
+_May 4th._--Everything appeared to combine against us: weather, snow
+ice, and sickness! In spite of these evils our tents were struck and a
+start made; but after advancing for half a mile, which took us exactly
+three and a half hours to accomplish, we arrived at such a confused heap
+of hummocks that, with the dense fog prevailing and the falling snow,
+it was impossible to make any headway. To persevere would have been
+imprudent. The tents were accordingly pitched, and we consoled ourselves
+by saying that the rest would be productive of much good to our sick
+companions, for even those that had to be carried on the sledges could
+get no rest whilst being dragged and jolted and sometimes capsized over
+the roughest road imaginable. After lunch, the weather clearing a
+little, we employed ourselves in cutting a road through an amorphous
+conglomeration of ice for quite three-quarters of a mile. The pack over
+which we were travelling appeared to consist of numerous small floes,
+the largest being barely one hundred yards across at its widest
+diameter, but the majority much smaller, and each of these floes was
+surrounded by a mass of hummocks piled up and lying one on top of the
+other to the height of twenty and thirty feet: the belts of hummocks
+being from thirty to forty yards in breadth.
+
+Observing one large hummock to be very much discoloured, we found, on
+approach, that this discolouration was caused by the adhesion of mud or
+clay, a line of which extended for some distance along the edge of the
+floe, and gave one the idea that it had rubbed against, or in some
+manner had come into contact with, the shore. Mud it undoubtedly was,
+and we bottled a quantity of it for the purpose of subjecting it to
+microscopic investigation when we should return on board. This was
+conclusive evidence that a periodical, if not an annual, disruption of
+the pack occurs, and that these floes, although now at such a distance
+from the land, had at some time or another been in very close
+proximity. Moreover, this must have occurred at a recent date,
+otherwise the summer thaws and the autumn snow would have obliterated
+all such traces as those we had discovered.
+
+_May 5th._--The weather was still as thick as pea-soup! However, we were
+able to avail ourselves of the road that we had constructed yesterday,
+and moved our camp so far. To do this, although the road was fairly good
+and the distance only three-quarters of a mile, the time occupied was
+four and a half hours! The scene that surrounded our encampment was a
+dreary one indeed--a desolate, cold, and inhospitable scene: everything
+of the same uniform colour; no object to relieve the eye; no signs of
+life; nothing to break the stillness and solitude of this waste of snow
+and ice. Surely Shelley must have contemplated such a scene when he
+wrote the following lines:
+
+  "Those wastes of frozen billows that were hurled
+   By everlasting snow-storms round the Poles,
+   Where matters dared not vegetate nor live,
+   But ceaseless frost round the vast solitude
+   Bound the broad zone of stillness."
+
+It was a relief, indeed, to turn from such a scene, and rest the eye
+upon our little encampment, while listening to the cheerful voices of
+our men, as, oblivious to hardship and suffering, they sat "yarning," in
+their tents, and relating to each other their adventures in other parts
+of the globe. To our great satisfaction and comfort the temperature was
+at, or about, zero all day, and for the first time, since leaving the
+ship, we were able to eat our bacon without in the first place thawing
+it in our tea!
+
+_May 6th._--A fine, bright day; but the rest of yesterday had produced
+no beneficial results. Our invalids were gradually getting worse; even
+those who were apparently in good health complained of aching limbs, and
+exhibited some of the first symptoms of those who were already ailing.
+Four of the men had also been suffering for the last few days from snow
+blindness, though not in a severe form. A suger of lead lotion afforded
+them great relief, and acted as a cure. We had been so far extremely
+fortunate in our comparative exemption from this painful and irritating
+affliction. We must attribute our immunity from it to the constant use
+of our snow-goggles, which were never taken off until the time of
+"bagging!"
+
+In getting under weigh in the morning, and also when we are encamping,
+the sick men cause us no little delay; for they are perfectly helpless,
+and require assistance in every little detail connected with their
+dressing and undressing, being totally incapacitated from doing anything
+themselves.
+
+The travelling was very heavy. We appeared to have arrived at a perfect
+barrier of hummocks, with portions of large floes intermixed, all broken
+and squeezed up together and covered with deep snow. As far as reaching
+a high latitude was concerned, we might as well have turned back at
+once, for our advance must needs be slow; but it was not impossible that
+this sea of hummocks, with which we were contending, might be the limit
+of our rough road, and that if we could succeed in struggling through
+them for a few miles, we might emerge upon large and level floes on
+which we should be able to travel with greater ease and celerity.
+Possibly the rugged nature of the ice might be due to the junction of
+two tides, which, from the commotion produced, would create the
+obstacles that were impeding our progress. After halting for the night,
+a party of men were employed road-making whilst the tents were being
+pitched and supper preparing. All were very glad to get into their bags
+and rest after the fatigues of the day. A slight air from the S.E. sent
+the temperature down rapidly to 11 deg. below zero. The minus quantities
+still prevailed.
+
+_May 7th._--We started this morning carrying three of our invalids; but
+before we had gone many yards it became painfully evident that the two
+others were quite unable to walk, although the gallant fellows struggled
+along manfully.
+
+Our only resource was to advance the sledges and then return with them
+empty to bring on the other disabled sufferers. We had now a third of
+our little band _hors de combat_, our strength was diminishing daily,
+and our weights on the sledges in consequence were increasing. The
+travelling appeared to be getting, if possible, worse; the hummocks were
+higher and the snow-drifts deeper. One of the former, on being measured
+by means of a lead line, was found to be, from the top of the floe to
+its summit, forty-three feet three inches.
+
+We halted earlier than usual, and, having constructed a pedestal for the
+magnetic instrument out of solid snow, obtained a series of observations
+for the inclination of the needle and for the total magnetic force.
+
+_May 8th._--We at length forced ourselves to believe that the disease
+from which our men were suffering was really scurvy. We issued to those
+who were afflicted daily allowances of lime-juice from the small stock
+that we brought away with us.
+
+But it was with the utmost difficulty that a small allowance for each
+could be thawed. The lime-juice was in two bottles. On putting one near
+the cooking apparatus to thaw, the bottle cracked and fell to pieces. At
+last I adopted the plan of placing the other bottle between my legs when
+in the sleeping-bag, and, after a long time, I succeeded in thawing a
+small quantity. But it is now known that this was of no use; for the
+state of the lime-juice used by Dr. Coppinger at Polaris Bay showed that
+the whole volume must be thawed and remixed before it can be used with
+any advantage. This can only be done in the warmer weather of June or
+July.
+
+The loss of appetite, depression of spirits, with other symptoms were,
+we thought, decidedly scorbutic, and we feared, without fresh meat and
+vegetables, that there was little chance of seeing the sick men on the
+drag-ropes again during the journey. Being a fine, bright day, the
+invalids were made to come out and bask in the sun, whilst the rest of
+the party, with pickaxes and shovels, were engaged in cutting a road
+through the hummocks. A double series of magnetic observations were
+obtained, together with sights for latitude, longitude, and variation of
+the compass. The hummocks amongst which our tents were pitched were of
+various heights and bulk, from small fragments of ice to huge piles over
+forty feet high. Some of them consisted of a number of small hummocks
+squeezed up into one large mass, whilst others were apparently the
+regular floe-bergs, and, although perhaps of greater bulk, were not
+quite so high.
+
+Between these hummocks, and consequently along the only road where we
+could drag our sledges, the snow had accumulated in drifts to a great
+depth, and this, formed into ridges by the wind, rendered the travelling
+all the more difficult. Occasionally the tops of these ridges were
+frozen hard, and it was of no uncommon occurrence to step from deep
+snow, through which we were floundering up to our waists, on to a hard,
+frozen piece, or _vice versa_.
+
+Sometimes these ridges were only partially frozen, or covered with a
+slight crust, just hard enough _not_ to bear our weights, and this made
+it exceedingly disagreeable and laborious to travel over.
+
+_May 9th._--Another beautifully warm day, with the temperature only a
+degree or two below zero! It was impossible to remain idle on such a
+day, so we resolved to push on.
+
+Lightening two of the sledges of about half their loads, two of the sick
+men were placed on them, and these were dragged to the limit of the road
+made yesterday. Here the tent was pitched, the two invalids placed
+inside, the sledge unpacked and dragged back. In this manner we
+succeeded in advancing during the day a distance of about three-quarters
+of a mile; but so tortuous was our road, and so often had it to be
+traversed, that to accomplish this short distance we had to walk about
+seven miles, and this through very deep snow. Rawlings, Simpson, and
+Ferbrache were complaining of aching limbs, and their legs exhibited
+slight discolouration.
+
+_May 10th._--We advanced the sledges in the same manner as yesterday,
+accomplishing about the same distance; but so distressing was it to see
+the exertions of the men in their endeavours to perform a good day's
+work, and so painful was it to witness the sufferings of the sick, that
+I very reluctantly came to the conclusion that our camp this evening
+must be our most northern one. With five of my little force disabled,
+and as many more showing decided scorbutic symptoms, it would have been
+imprudent to persevere farther, however much inclination might prompt
+such a proceeding. Besides, our provisions must be taken into
+consideration, and we had only thirty days left to take us back a
+distance that occupied us forty days to advance, so that our turning
+back became an imperative necessity. We might, I think, console
+ourselves with the knowledge that the motto engraved on my flagstaff,
+and which had been presented to me by my friend and former Captain, now
+Commodore A. H. Hoskins, had been fully carried out. It was happily
+chosen, and although the lines are expressed in the first personal
+pronoun they had reference to the whole party:
+
+  "I dare do all that may become a man:
+   Who dares do more is none."
+
+We felt that the absence of any greater success could not be attributed
+either to a lack of energy or of perseverence. It was, however, a bitter
+ending to all our aspirations, for which even the knowledge of being
+homeward bound failed to compensate. In justice to my brave companions I
+must say that no men could have done more under the same circumstances.
+
+_May 11th._--Having arrived at the determination of dragging the sledges
+no farther in a northerly direction, I deemed it desirable to try what
+good two days' perfect rest would do for our invalids; and, as there
+were many useful observations to be taken in this high latitude, I
+determined to devote the two following days to obtaining them. As soon
+as breakfast was discussed, a snow pedestal was erected for the
+instrument for determining the magnetic force and inclination of the
+needle, a double series of observations being obtained. Sights were
+taken in order to fix our position both by latitude and longitude, and
+also for the variation of the compass.[1]
+
+Some of the men were employed in cutting a hole through young ice that
+existed between the hummocks in order that we might obtain deep sea
+temperatures with a Casella's thermometer, which we had brought with us
+for the purpose.
+
+In three hours this work was accomplished, the ice being only sixty-four
+inches in thickness. On attempting to get soundings, to our great
+surprise we succeeded in finding bottom in seventy-one fathoms (four
+hundred and twenty-six feet).
+
+At this depth we managed to obtain, by various contrivances that were
+lowered down, a specimen of the bottom, which was carefully bottled, in
+order to be carried to the ship, there to undergo microscopic
+examination.
+
+[Illustration: HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP.]
+
+Wishing to possess any specimens of animal life that might exist in this
+high latitude, a bread bag, filled with the scrapings of our pannikins
+and a little pemmican, was lowered to the bottom, and, having been kept
+there some hours, was hauled up, and to our great joy found to be almost
+alive with numerous small crustaceans[2] and foraminifera; specimens
+of which were, of course, collected and preserved, being the most
+northern animal life yet discovered. With our thermometer a series of
+temperatures was taken at every ten fathoms, whilst the specific gravity
+of the surface water was also obtained.
+
+Tidal action was apparent; but, with the means at our disposal, we were
+unable to observe the rise and fall of the tide, or to make any accurate
+measurement regarding it. Altogether the day was not unprofitably spent.
+
+_May 12th._--This 12th of May must always be regarded as an eventful day
+in the lives of our little party, for it was that on which we had the
+honour, and no small gratification, of planting the Union Jack on the
+most northern limit of the globe ever attained by civilized man, or, in
+fact, so far as our knowledge goes, by mortal man! In order to insure
+being within four hundred miles of the North Pole, we started
+immediately after breakfast to the northward, carrying with us the
+sextant, artificial horizon, and all our colours and banners. We were a
+party of ten,[3] two men being left behind to attend to the wants of the
+five who were sick, and who were left comfortably settled inside the
+tents.
+
+The walking was undoubtedly severe, at one moment struggling through
+deep snow-drifts, in which we floundered up to our waists, and at
+another tumbling about amongst the hummocks.
+
+Some idea may be formed of the difficulties of the road, when, after
+more than two hours' hard walking, with little or nothing to carry, we
+had barely accomplished one mile!
+
+Shortly before noon a halt was called, the artificial horizon set up,
+and the flags and sledge standards displayed. Fortunately the sun was
+favourable to us, and we were able to obtain a good altitude as it
+passed the meridian, although almost immediately afterwards dark clouds
+rolled up, snow began to fall, and the sun was lost in obscurity.
+
+We found the latitude to be 83 deg. 20' 26'' N., or three hundred and
+ninety-nine miles and a half from the North Pole. The announcement of
+our position was received with three cheers, with one more for Captain
+Nares; then all sang the "Union Jack of Old England," our "Grand
+Palaeocrystic Sledging Chorus," winding up, like loyal subjects, with
+"God save the Queen."
+
+No words of mine could describe the scene that surrounded us better than
+those of Coleridge in his "Ancient Mariner":
+
+  "The ice was here, the ice was there,
+   The ice was all around."
+
+For nought else but snow and ice could be seen in any direction.
+
+In spite, however, of these dreary surroundings, suggesting everything
+that was desolate and miserable, mirth, happiness, and joy seemed to
+reign paramount amongst our little party. Perhaps there was something
+in the idea of having been farther north than any other man had hitherto
+penetrated, that promoted such feelings! Whatever produced them, they
+were shared in by all. Even the sick, on our return to camp, prostrate
+and suffering as they were, participated in the general hilarity and
+rejoicing. They knew their toilsome journey had terminated, and that
+each day would bring them nearer to their ship and to those supplies
+that were necessary to save their lives.
+
+On returning to the tents, a magnum of whiskey, kindly sent by the "Dean
+of Dundee," for the express purpose of being drunk at our highest
+northern position, was broached, and for supper we had divided amongst
+the two sledge crews a hare that had been shot by Dr. Moss on the third
+day after leaving the ship. Could men in our position want more? Never
+were the bones of a hare picked so clean! No dog would have benefited
+much from the scraps remaining from our repast!
+
+Absent friends were duly toasted, and the evening was brought to a close
+with songs, in which even the invalids joined. All appeared happy,
+cheerful, and contented.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] The original from which the annexed illustration is a copy, was
+    painted by Admiral R. B. Beechey, and exhibited in the Royal Academy
+    in 1877. It is now in the possession of Mr. Clements Markham.
+
+  [2] _Anonyx nugax_, a fine adult male example, and several smaller
+    ones. The length of the largest specimen is 11/2 inch. This species is
+    one of the commonest and most abundantly distributed of the northern
+    _Amphipoda_. It was discovered by Captain Phipps in 1773, and is
+    found along the shores of Arctic America, in the White Sea, on the
+    coasts of Greenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, Norway, and in the Sea of
+    Okhotsk.
+
+  [3] The names of these men are--Commander A. H. Markham, Lieutenant
+    A. A. C. Parr, Thos. Rawlings, Ed. Lawrence, John Radmore, Thos.
+    Jolliffe, Daniel Harley, Wm. Ferbrache, Wm. Maskell, and John
+    Pearson.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.
+
+
+  "Is not short payne well borne, that brings long ease,
+   And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet grace?
+   Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas,
+   Ease after warre, death after life, does greatly please."
+
+    _Faerie Queene._
+
+At three o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of May the homeward march
+was commenced, our main object, of course, being to get back to the ship
+as speedily as possible.
+
+Before starting, a couple of records, inclosed in two tin cases, were
+deposited on the floe. One was placed as near the centre of the floe as
+possible, the other was secured on the top of a hummock.
+
+On the records was stated the latitude and longitude of the position,
+together with a few words regarding the condition of the party. If these
+are ever picked up it will be very interesting and important, as
+throwing light on the drift or tide in these high latitudes.
+
+It is unnecessary to describe the incidents that occurred on each
+successive day during the return journey. Day by day did our strength
+diminish. Gradually, but surely, the men, one after the other, began to
+feel the cruel grasp of the disease, as they struggled manfully on,
+dragging their poor, helpless companions, in spite of racking pains and
+aching limbs. Although themselves attacked by the dreadful malady, the
+men who were still able to work suppressed their own sufferings in their
+endeavours to ameliorate those of their more helpless and ailing
+comrades. Unmindful of their own miserable plight, they devoted
+themselves to the tender and soothing functions of nurses with a
+thoughtful and careful tenderness that would have done credit even to
+those of the weaker sex.
+
+Often had the same road to be traversed, as the sledges were advanced
+one at a time, and most fortunate was it that we were able to adhere to
+the road constructed during our outward journey. To do so, however,
+during the thick weather which constantly prevailed, was a task of great
+difficulty and very trying to the eyes; but we knew that if by ill-luck
+we should wander away and lose it, our chances of ever seeing the ship
+again would be poor indeed! The hours selected for travelling were
+between 6 P.M. and 6 A.M. By choosing this part of the day, or rather
+night, for working, we kept the sun as much as possible at our backs,
+and slept during the warmth of the day. Towards the end of May, although
+the temperature of the outside air was below the freezing point, the sun
+was so powerful that it would raise the temperature inside our tent,
+whilst we were sleeping, to as much as 70 deg. or 80 deg., which would be quite
+unbearable! Frost-bites had become a thing of the past, and were no
+longer dreaded. The temperature did not rise above the freezing point
+until the month of June.
+
+Snow fell heavily during the greater part of the return journey, and
+fogs were very prevalent. Gales of wind had to be endured, for to halt
+was out of the question--rest there was none--onward was the order of
+the day.
+
+As the disease gradually assumed the mastery over the party, so did the
+appetites decrease, and in a very alarming manner, until it was with the
+greatest difficulty that anybody could be induced to eat at all. Instead
+of each man disposing of one pound of pemmican a day, the same quantity
+sufficed for the entire party in one tent; and even this, occasionally,
+was not consumed. Nor was the subject of eating and drinking so often
+discussed. During the outward journey, beefsteaks and onions, mutton
+chops and new potatoes, and Bass's beer formed the chief topics of
+conversation. On the return journey they were scarcely alluded to.
+Hunger was never felt; but we were all assailed by an intolerable
+thirst, which could only be appeased at meal times, or after the
+temperature was sufficiently high to admit of quenching our thirst by
+putting icicles into our mouths.
+
+Aching bones and sleepless nights were the chief causes of our
+sufferings.
+
+With all these hardships it was a great comfort to be able to put on dry
+foot gear. If it was fine when we encamped, our blanket wrappers and
+hose were spread out on the tent in the sun, so that when we got up they
+were not only dry, but _not frozen_, and were, therefore, limp and
+supple!
+
+On the 17th of May we again, strange to say, crossed the track of a
+hare, being at the time about twenty-five miles from the nearest land.
+Like the track before seen, the footsteps were close together,
+indicating that the poor little creature was in a very exhausted state.
+Although the traces were very indistinct, they appeared to be going in a
+northerly direction.
+
+Though our travelling was slow, we could see a perceptible decrease in
+the distance between ourselves and the land, whenever the weather was
+fine enough for us to observe it. "Old Joe," as the men irreverently
+termed Cape Joseph Henry, loomed nearer and darker, and we all regarded
+it with anxious, longing eyes.
+
+On the 18th of May the first icicles were observed hanging from the
+edges of a few hummocks--a sure sign of the returning power of the sun.
+
+Ominous symptoms of a disruption of the pack were seen on the same day,
+and again on the following one. A crack in some ice had opened
+considerably since we last passed over it, whilst small hummocks had
+been formed by the pressure of two floes, one against the other. These
+little indications made matters assume a still more serious aspect. They
+may have been due to tidal action, but they were undoubtedly warnings to
+get off the pack as speedily as possible.
+
+On the 20th the snow crystals that fell actually melted on coming into
+contact with our clothes or any dark substance. These crystals were all
+of a beautiful stellar shape. A hummock passed, although composed,
+apparently, of one piece of ice, was of two different colours, a deep
+blue and a pale yellow. Portions of each were broken off for the purpose
+of testing their respective specific gravities, and also to carry back
+to the ship for analysis. In all probability the discolouration was
+caused by the presence of diatomaceae. The hummocks, at about this date,
+began to assume a different appearance, the mild weather depriving them
+of their snowy covering, and causing them to lose much of their former
+resemblance to gigantic wedding cakes!
+
+The men began to have an inkling of the nature of the disease from which
+they were suffering, although we studiously avoided all mention of it.
+It went with them by the name of the "Joseph Henry mange!" Their spirits
+were wonderful, and they joked each other as they hobbled along. Their
+lameness they called the "Marco Polo limp," and declared on their return
+to England they would introduce it as the fashionable gait!
+
+Nothing appeared to subdue their courage or their zeal. Orders were
+always executed with the utmost willingness and good humour, and with as
+much alacrity as they were capable of evincing.
+
+The men having heard that tea-leaves had been recommended as a good
+_vegetable_, the contents of the tea-kettle, after lunch and supper,
+were carefully collected, and devoured with avidity; but there is little
+faith, I fear, to be placed in their efficacy for warding off or
+subduing our terrible complaint.
+
+Instead of our sledge loads appearing to diminish in weight as the
+provisions were consumed, they seemed to drag heavier, and we were at a
+loss whether to attribute this to the depth and softness of the snow
+over which we travelled, or to the increasing weakness of our party! It
+was hard work, and as much as we could do to make any progress at all.
+The men experienced great difficulty in moving their legs, the slightest
+exertion caused intense pain, and it was a piteous sight to witness
+them struggling bravely on, without uttering a murmur or complaint.
+They all knew that their only hope of safety was to get back to the ship
+as speedily as possible.
+
+The 24th of May being the Queen's birthday, all the flags and banners
+were displayed during the short time we halted for lunch, and her
+Majesty's health was drunk by her most northern and not least loyal
+subjects. On that day, amongst the entire party, we could only muster
+four and a half good and sound pairs of legs! Still even those with
+"game legs" stuck to the drag-ropes nobly, and if they were unable to
+render much assistance, still the drag-ropes acted as a support, and
+therefore enabled them to keep up.
+
+On the 25th the eighty-third parallel of latitude was recrossed.
+
+The comparatively high temperature caused the snow over which we
+journeyed to assume a "sludgy" consistency, which clung tenaciously to
+our legs and to the sledge runners, rendering the work of dragging and
+walking all the more laborious.
+
+On the 27th the condition of the party was so critical that it became
+only too painfully evident that, to insure their reaching the land
+alive, the sledges must be considerably lightened in order to admit of a
+more rapid advance. The state of the party was on that day as follows:
+five men were in a very precarious condition, utterly unable to move,
+and consequently had to be carried on the sledges; five others nearly as
+bad, but who nobly persisted in hobbling after the sledges, which they
+could just manage to accomplish, for, as the sledges had to be advanced
+one by one, it gave them plenty of time to perform the distance; whilst
+three others exhibited all the premonitory scorbutic symptoms. Thus only
+the two officers and two men[1] could be considered as effective! This
+was, it must be acknowledged, a very deplorable state of affairs.
+
+I therefore decided to abandon the remaining boat, which would
+materially lessen the load to be dragged. This decision was only arrived
+at after long and anxious consideration. I had to decide which was the
+lesser of two evils.
+
+For I well knew that should a disruption of the pack occur, and we had
+already observed ominous signs of such an event, without a boat the
+party would indeed be placed in a hopeless position; but again I knew
+that in retaining the boat, the weights to be dragged by our weakened
+crew would be so excessive as to preclude the possibility of reaching
+the shore before all the provisions would be expended, and starvation
+would be the result. Again it was of the utmost importance that haste
+should be made in order to reach the ship, and place the sick under
+proper medical treatment. The disease was extending so rapidly as to
+produce a marked change for the worse every day. The boat, therefore,
+and all superfluous weights were abandoned, and the march was again
+wearily resumed.
+
+Many a silent prayer was offered up to God to protect and watch over us,
+for we felt, indeed, that we were in dire distress, and that without His
+aid and assistance we must perish; and we prayed for strength to enable
+us to drag our poor helpless and suffering companions to a place of
+safety. A record was left in the deserted boat, containing a brief
+account of our state and condition, with the latitude and longitude
+where it was abandoned.
+
+[Illustration: SNOW BUNTING]
+
+On the following day great excitement was caused by the appearance of a
+snow bunting, which was seen fluttering about amongst the hummocks,
+uttering its sweet and pleasant chirp, which to us was the most pleasing
+music we had heard for many a long day. No wonder the sudden appearance
+amongst us of this little warbler was so interesting, for it was the
+first bird we had seen for nine long months. Even the invalids, as they
+lay on the sledges, requested that they might have their faces
+uncovered, so as both to see and hear the little friend that had flown
+off to us, as if it were a messenger to welcome our party back to life
+and friends. Long and anxiously was it watched as it winged its course
+towards the land, whither we also were slowly wending our way.
+
+On the 29th the colours were again displayed at lunch time, in
+commemoration of the first anniversary of our sailing from England, and
+allusions were made to that ever-memorable day, comparisons being drawn
+between our condition then and now! On that evening our tents were
+pitched close to the boat that we had abandoned on our outward journey,
+and which we found exactly in the same state as when we left it, with
+its mast stepped and yard hoisted, standing out like a grim sentinel
+guarding those icy wastes.
+
+On the 31st, whilst crossing some young ice between two heavy floes, one
+of the sledges broke through, and we had no little trouble in saving it
+from complete immersion, and the invalid who was on it from being
+drowned! These warnings were unmistakeable, and pointed to the necessity
+of reaching the land as quickly as possible. The falling snow and drift
+thawed upon our clothes, making us wet and extremely wretched and
+uncomfortable.
+
+On the 1st of June the temperature was some two or three degrees above
+freezing point. This had the effect of thawing the surface snow and
+converting it into a thick sludge. Our foot gear in consequence was in a
+soaking wet state. Our working force on this day was reduced to six, and
+all suffering more or less.
+
+On the 2nd the thick weather, which had so persistently clung to us,
+proved triumphant and robbed us of our road. Up to this date we had been
+able to avail ourselves of the road constructed with so much trouble and
+labour on our outward journey. On this day we wandered off it, and in
+spite of our efforts were unable to pick up the trail again. The severe
+and monotonous labour of road-making had again to be resorted to. On the
+5th, to our very great joy, we succeeded once more in pitching our camp
+on _terra firma_, after an absence from it of two months. On first
+landing our hopes were excited on observing the recent traces of a
+sledge and human footprints, and we congratulated ourselves upon soon
+obtaining that relief we all so much required; but we were doomed to
+disappointment, for on reaching the depot of provisions established near
+Cape Joseph Henry for our use, and which was found intact, we learnt
+that a sledge party with Captain Nares had left for the ship only two
+days previously! This was a bitter blow, for we knew that something more
+than provisions was needed for the safety of the party.
+
+We learnt also that scurvy had made its appearance on board the "Alert,"
+and that poor Petersen died from the effects of his last sledge journey,
+on the 14th of May.
+
+Three hares had been kindly and thoughtfully left for us in a crevice
+amongst the hummocks by Captain Nares, and this furnished us with meals
+for a couple of days; it is needless to add, they were done ample
+justice to, not only for the sake of their goodness and the change they
+afforded, but also because we thought the fresh meat would act as a
+specific against the scurvy.
+
+The tracks of a wolf were observed near the depot, and the animal was
+frequently heard howling in a mournful manner, but we never saw it.
+
+Obtaining a few supplies from the depot, our march was again resumed;
+but so rapid had been the encroachments of the disease, that it was
+only too palpable that immediate succour was absolutely necessary for
+our salvation. At the rate of progress we were making, it would take us
+fully three weeks to reach the ship, although only forty miles distant;
+and who would there be left in three weeks' time? The few who were still
+strong enough to drag the sledges would barely last as many days!
+Assistance had, therefore, to be obtained. To procure it, one amongst us
+was ready and willing to set out on this lonely and solitary mission,
+with the firm reliance of being able to accomplish what he had
+undertaken, and with the knowledge that he possessed the full confidence
+of those for whose relief he was about to start on a long and hazardous
+walk. On the 7th of June Lieut. Parr started on his arduous march to the
+ship. Deep and heartfelt were the God-speeds uttered as he took his
+departure, and anxiously was his retreating form watched until it was
+gradually lost to sight amidst the interminable hummocks.
+
+  "All waste! no sign of life
+   But the track of the wolf and the bear!
+   No sound but the wild, wild wind,
+   And the snow crunching under his feet."
+
+Although the loss of one strong man, like Parr, from the party was
+seriously felt, still the knowledge that active steps had been taken to
+procure aid was sufficient to compensate for this reduction in our
+strength, and the men gallantly persevered at the drag-ropes, buoyed up
+by renewed hopes.
+
+On the day previous to that on which Parr left, an Eskimo dog, to our
+great surprise, was seen threading its way to us through the hummocks.
+It was soon recognized to be one of our dogs, named Flo; but she was so
+timid that at first nothing would induce her to approach. After a little
+time, however, we coaxed her to us, and on having some pemmican thrown
+to her she ate it ravenously. Poor thing! she was wretchedly thin and
+emaciated; she, we concluded, had been cast adrift, or made her escape
+from the last dog-sledge that visited this neighbourhood. She joined our
+tail of cripples, hobbling, like them, after us and carefully walking in
+the track of our sledges.
+
+On the 8th of June sadness and despondency prevailed amongst our little
+band. One of our number had received that summons to which all must at
+some time attend, and had been called to his long account.
+
+  "His soul to Him who gave it rose.
+   God led it to its long repose--
+   Its glorious rest."
+
+This was a terrible and unexpected blow to many who regarded themselves
+as being in a still more critical and precarious condition than was poor
+Porter. His end was calm and peaceful, and he retained his senses to
+within five minutes of the time of dissolution.
+
+Sad and mournful, indeed, was the small procession that wended its way
+slowly to the new-made grave, dug out of a frozen soil, carrying the
+lifeless remains of their comrade, covered with the Union Jack, on the
+same sledge on which he had been dragged, whilst alive, for many weeks;
+and there, with the tears trickling down their weather-beaten and
+smoke-begrimed faces, with their hearts so full as to choke all
+utterance, they laid their late fellow-sufferer in his last
+resting-place.
+
+A rude cross, improvised out of the rough materials that our own
+equipment supplied, with a brief inscription, marks the lone and dreary
+spot in that far-off icy desert where rests our comrade in his long
+sleep that knows no waking, and where probably human foot will never
+again tread.
+
+  "O World! so few the years we live,
+   Would that the life that thou dost give
+     Were life indeed!
+   Alas! thy sorrows fall so fast,
+   Our happiest hour is when at last
+     The soul is freed."
+
+Gladly, after the ceremony was concluded, was the order to renew the
+march received, every one being desirous of quitting a place so fraught
+with sad and melancholy associations; the day, as if in unison with the
+state of our own thoughts and feelings, was dull and gloomy.
+
+The late mournful event produced a despondency in our little band to
+which we had hitherto been strangers.
+
+One and all felt and knew that assistance, to be of any avail, must
+arrive speedily, and many a wistful glance was directed towards the
+south, in the faint hope of seeing that succour without which they would
+surely perish. They felt more their own weakness and helplessness, and
+dreaded a recurrence of what had recently taken place. The journey was
+silently and wearily resumed.
+
+As many of the men were unable to eat their pemmican, on account of the
+soreness of their gums, and from a certain dislike that they had lately
+taken to it, a new "dish" was tried, consisting of preserved potatoes
+mixed with bacon fat, and although in flavour, if any was perceptible,
+it rather resembled what starch might be like, it was decidedly
+acceptable as a change, and each person consumed about two-thirds of a
+pannikin.
+
+On the morning of the 9th a rainbow was seen, which, being an unusual
+sight, afforded much interest. On the same day, shortly after the march
+had been commenced, a moving object was suddenly seen amidst the
+hummocks to the southward. At first it was regarded as an optical
+illusion, for we could scarcely realize the fact that it could be
+anybody from the "Alert!" With what intense anxiety this object was
+regarded is beyond description.
+
+Gradually emerging from the hummocks, a hearty cheer put an end to the
+suspense that was almost agonizing, as a dog-sledge with three men was
+seen to be approaching. A cheer in return was attempted, but so full
+were our hearts that it resembled more a wail than a cheer.
+
+It is impossible to describe our feelings as May and Moss came up, and
+we received from them a warm and hearty welcome. We felt that we were
+saved, and a feeling of thankfulness and gratitude was uppermost in our
+minds, as we shook the hands of those who had hurried out to our relief
+the moment that Parr had conveyed to them intelligence of our distress.
+Those who a few short moments before were in the lowest depths of
+despondency, appeared now in the most exuberant spirits. Pain was
+disregarded and hardships were forgotten as numerous and varied
+questions were asked and answered.
+
+We heard with delight that they were only the vanguard of a larger
+party, headed by Captain Nares himself, that was coming out to our
+relief, and which we should probably meet on the following day. A halt
+was immediately ordered, cooking utensils lighted up, ice made into
+water, and we were soon all enjoying a good pannikin full of lime-juice,
+with the prospect of mutton for supper!
+
+After halting for the night Moss made a thorough medical inspection of
+the whole party. His report was by no means cheering: all were more or
+less affected, and some were in a very precarious condition. The
+presence, however, of a medical officer amongst us restored confidence,
+and acted as a powerful antiscorbutic!
+
+On the following day we met the larger party coming out to our
+assistance, and with their help arrived alongside the "Alert" on the
+14th of June, seventy-two days after our departure from the ship.
+
+What a contrast did that departure afford to our return!
+
+Then, on that bright but cold April morning, all were in the highest
+spirits, cheerful and enthusiastic, looking forward with confidence to a
+comparatively successful issue to their undertaking--a fine, strong, and
+resolute band.
+
+Alas! how different was the return! Out of that party of fifteen men,
+one had gone to his long home, eleven others were carried alongside the
+ship on sledges dragged by a party despatched to their relief, and only
+the remaining three were capable of walking.[2] Even they were scarcely
+able to move one leg before the other, and were, on their return, placed
+with the others under the doctor's hands. It was, indeed, a sad and
+terrible calamity with which we had been afflicted, totally unexpected
+and unparalleled in the annals of Arctic sledging experiences. On our
+arrival alongside the ship, we were, of course, most warmly welcomed by
+every soul on board; before entering Captain Nares called for three
+cheers for our party, and then offered up thanks to Almighty God for
+having preserved us through many dangers and privations, and for guiding
+us back to our ship without further loss of life.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] John Radmore, chief carpenter's mate, and William Maskell, able
+    seaman.
+
+  [2] Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.
+
+
+  "Now that the winter's gone, the earth hath lost
+   Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost
+   Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream
+   Upon the silver lake or crystal stream,
+   But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth."
+
+     CAREW.
+
+The hearty welcome we received from one and all on board the "Alert,"
+together with the indescribable pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a
+champagne supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough to
+indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely happy; the feeling being
+increased by the knowledge that our suffering companions were under the
+tender care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility
+connected with their treatment had, so far as we were concerned, ceased.
+Our late hardships and the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return
+of the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for the number of
+cots hanging up outside the ward-room, and the row of beds along the
+lower deck, each occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt
+inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a dream from which we
+had suddenly been awakened.
+
+A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong body of men it would be
+difficult to conceive. Not only had the men engaged in the extended
+party under my command been attacked with scurvy, but also those who had
+been absent from the ship only for short periods, and some, who may be
+said never to have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two or
+three days! The disease then could not be attributed to any special
+circumstance connected with sledge travelling.
+
+The seeds must have been sown during the time, nearly five months, that
+the sun was absent, and we were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable
+food is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of health, and its
+absence is the originating cause of scurvy. To this originating cause
+all Arctic Expeditions have been equally exposed. The predisposing
+causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak when the
+originating cause exists, are the long absence of the sun, entailing
+darkness, damp, intense cold, and bad ventilation. To these predisposing
+causes our expedition was exposed for a very much longer period than any
+other which sent out extended travelling parties. For this reason other
+expeditions were exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short,
+the different result was caused by the difference in latitude. As our
+winter arrangements, and our scale of diet, both on board and while
+travelling, were identical with those of former expeditions, the cause
+of the outbreak could not have had anything to do either with diet or
+winter routine. Lime-juice, though most useful in warding off for a time
+and delaying an attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other
+circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak. This is the opinion of
+all the best medical authorities; and our experience proved it to be an
+undoubted fact. Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship and
+never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice, and others were
+attacked who went away travelling at a time when daily rations of
+lime-juice formed a part of the sledge dietary.[1]
+
+In future, when an expedition winters in so high a latitude as 82 deg. N.,
+the prevention of an outbreak of scurvy must be secured by improved
+measures for mitigating the predisposing causes.
+
+Owing to the condition of the crew of the "Alert," Captain Nares
+publicly announced, on the 16th of June, that on the return of the
+sledge parties, he would endeavour to rejoin the "Discovery," and would
+then send that vessel to England with all the invalids, and those unfit
+to remain out a second winter. The "Alert" would pass her second winter
+at Port Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would be
+despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes Sound, and the adjacent
+land. This work completed, that vessel also would return to England. The
+reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future winter quarters was
+the amount of animal life, principally reindeer, reported to abound in
+that neighbourhood, and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in
+breaking out in the following summer.
+
+This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it was certain that in
+the then state of the ship's company of the "Alert," many lives would be
+sacrificed if all the men were required to spend another winter in the
+Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching England acted as a cure upon
+those who were in the worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their
+recovery than all the medicines and careful nursing that they received
+from our painstaking and attentive doctor.
+
+In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt regarding the safety of
+the western sledge party under Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in
+which the northern division had been afflicted, it was feared that they
+also would not pass scathless.
+
+Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same extent. Their route was
+along the coast line, and it was expected that they would have been able
+to supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions, such as hares,
+geese, and perhaps musk-oxen.
+
+On the 18th of June, four days after the return of my party, May, with
+three men and the dog-sledge, dragged by our remaining six dogs, left
+the ship in order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich's party, and if
+necessary to take him relief and assistance. The succeeding days were
+anxious ones to all on board, and many were the trips taken to the
+summit of Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning sledgers.
+We could not disguise from ourselves the fact that unless they returned
+quickly they would be placed in a very critical position. In a few days
+they must be without provisions. This we knew. The temperature, too, had
+reached freezing point, and frequently stood two or three degrees above
+it, causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore making the task of
+dragging a sledge one of severe and unpleasant toil.
+
+On the 21st the sun reached its highest northern declination, and every
+day would bring us nearer to another winter; therefore we knew that to
+effect our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary to get
+our sledging parties on board as soon as possible, in order to prepare
+the ship for sea, and to commence the operations requisite for cutting
+her out of winter quarters.
+
+The snow on the hills to the northward of us was rapidly disappearing;
+but this might only be due to their southern aspect, for in our
+immediate vicinity the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the latter
+end of May the hills around the ship were perfectly bare; but the heavy
+fall of snow, experienced by us during our return journey, had again
+covered them as they were during the winter.
+
+Water began to form in little pools on the floes near the ship, and
+every sign betokened the approaching disruption of the pack. On the
+23rd, a few king ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen hovering
+about the land, and one or two specimens of the latter were shot--their
+skins swelling our natural history collection, their bodies being
+reserved for the sick.
+
+On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine Service, on ascending
+Look-out-hill, to our very great delight we observed the wanderers
+struggling through the hummocks some six or seven miles off. Hurrying
+down to communicate the good news, a relief party was speedily formed,
+and by midnight we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them all
+on board. It was the old story repeated. All were suffering from scurvy,
+and only Aldrich and two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one
+of the latter being so bad that he was under medical treatment for many
+weeks after his return on board.
+
+Their absence from the ship extended over a period of eighty-four days,
+during which they did very good service, having explored no less than
+two hundred and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them near Cape
+Joseph Henry, not far from the spot where he had before brought succour
+to my party. They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a very
+crippled condition. It is most fortunate he succeeded in reaching them
+when he did. His cheery spirit and strong help did much to assist them,
+and enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside their Arctic
+home in undiminished numbers. It was a great relief to all on board to
+know that every one had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So
+great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties had arrived,
+that the lot of those on board was hardly more enviable than that of the
+travellers!
+
+Our good ship was now converted into a regular hospital, and might
+almost be said to be in charge of the medical officers; for those who
+were not actually under treatment had to be placed at the disposal of
+the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks, or attendants of some kind.
+Perfect rest and careful nursing were the most essential requisites for
+a complete restoration to health. Spenser must have had the recovery of
+similar wayworn and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote--
+
+  "Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste
+   And bodies were refresht with dew repast."
+
+The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless attention to their
+patients, and it was to their untiring watchfulness that we owed the
+complete recovery of our sick.
+
+Much had to be done to get the ship ready for sea; but, for some time,
+only a few officers and _three_ men could be employed in any work
+connected with these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely
+with their duties to the sick. The principal work that had to be done,
+before the ice broke up round the ship, was to get on board and stow
+away all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that had been
+landed before the winter. The housing had long been taken down, and the
+upper deck had been partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once
+more admitted through the skylights and illuminators. It is a curious
+fact connected with those who were for a long period absent from their
+ship, that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached, until in
+fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour was gradual, and, although
+noticed, was never alluded to, each one imagining that his companion's
+hair was turning grey from the effects of hardship and anxiety! It was
+only after our return to the ship that those possessing beards and
+moustaches discovered the change that had occurred. The colour returned
+in the same gradual manner that it had disappeared. We all suffered a
+loss of hair from the head; but this may easily be attributed to our
+sealskin caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly worn.
+
+After the long use of moccasins, it took us some time to get accustomed
+to leather boots, which we were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy
+state of the surface of the floes and the land. With a temperature some
+degrees below freezing point, nothing is more comfortable or better
+suited for travelling over the pack than a good pair of moccasins.
+
+The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated, on the 29th of June,
+by the best dinner we could afford to put on the table. As our
+printing-press had long been dismantled, a written _menu_ was given to
+myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended sledge parties. A
+beautiful sketch of the highest position reached was drawn by Moss, the
+following being as near as possible a fac-simile:--
+
+[Illustration: "Marco Polo." Lat. 83 deg. 20' 26'' N.]
+
+
+  MENU.
+
+  Potage olla Podrida.
+  Petits Pates d'Homards.    Fricassee de Pegouse et Sardines.
+  Rognons aux Champignons sauces dans Attrapez-en-haut.
+  Rissoles a la Tomato.
+  Machoire de Boeuf.       Jambon au Champagne.
+  Petits Pois.    Carottes.    Ognons.    Pommes de Terre.
+  Tourte de Peches.
+  Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou.    Pouding en Marmelade.
+  Pains rotis aux Anchois.
+  Fromage.    Liqueurs.    Dessert.
+  Cafe noir.
+
+  H.M.S. "Alert."    _29th June, 1876._
+
+
+On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the following verses
+composed by Pullen for the occasion. It is needless to add that they
+were not only appreciated, but that they found a response in every
+breast:--
+
+  Welcome home to the wished-for rest,
+  Travellers to north and travellers to west!
+  Welcome back from bristling floe,
+  Frowning cliff and quaking snow!
+  Nobly, bravely the work was done;
+  Inch by inch was the hard fight won.
+  Now the toilsome march is o'er,
+  Welcome home to our tranquil shore.
+
+  Rough and rude is the feast we bring;
+  Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.
+  Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise
+  To choke our voices and dim our eyes,
+  As we call to mind that joyous sight
+  On an April morning cold and bright,
+  When a chosen band stepped boldly forth
+  To the unknown west and the unknown north;
+  And we from our haven could only pray--
+  "God send them strength for each weary day!"
+
+  He heard our prayer; He made them strong;
+  He bore their stalwart limbs along;
+  Planted their sturdy footsteps sure;
+  Gave them courage to endure.
+  Taught them, too, for His dear sake,
+  Many a sacrifice to make:
+  By many a tender woman's deed
+  To aid a brother in his need.
+
+  And safe for ever shall He keep
+  In His gentle hand the two who sleep.
+  His love shall quench the tears that flow
+  For the buried dear ones under the snow.
+  And we who live and are strong to do,
+  His love shall keep us safely too:
+  Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,
+  And bring them back to health again.
+  And the breath of His wind shall set us free,
+  Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.
+
+Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition of the men, and
+supposing also that those of the "Discovery" were in the same state, he
+would not be justified in allowing even one ship to remain another year
+exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to the same causes that
+had led to the recent outbreak of scurvy. We were prepared for this
+announcement; for we well knew that to remain out a second winter,
+although there were many of us ready and eager to do so, would simply be
+to sacrifice many valuable lives for no object; for we could not
+possibly expect to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend
+our explorations much farther to the westward, although the whole force
+of the expedition should be confined to the one direction. In deciding
+to return to England, Captain Nares showed great moral courage, and
+exercised a sound and wise judgment, in the opinion of all his officers.
+
+On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich's party, a special
+thanksgiving was offered up to Almighty God for our safe return, and
+prayers were also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades.
+
+On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical examination being held,
+only ten men out of our fine ship's company were reported in a fit state
+for work, and some of these were convalescents! The invalids, however,
+thanks to the doctor's assiduous care, were improving slowly but surely.
+
+The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow was soft and wet in the
+valleys, small rivulets were already meandering through the ravines and
+gorges, whilst the summits of the mountains were covered with brown
+patches that the wind and thaw combined had left bare. Little tufts of
+the beautiful purple saxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which
+we walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild flowers of our own
+dear country, and creating a longing desire to behold them once more.
+Footprints of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally observed;
+but although these traces appeared fresh, they were evidently those of
+the preceding autumn, which, having been covered with snow and frozen
+hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly preserved.
+
+On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate as to shoot three
+musk-oxen within three or four miles of the ship, and on the following
+morning another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen. This was
+indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat the recovery of our sick would
+be long and tedious. The actual amount of food obtained from these
+animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from each. The dexterity
+with which the beasts were operated upon after death would have done
+credit to the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of liver and
+bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say, done full justice to--the
+only fault being an insufficiency in amount.
+
+Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration of the invalids
+to health. Shooting parties were, therefore, organized amongst the
+officers, and the whole country for a radius of many miles was well
+scoured in search of game. These shooting parties were very enjoyable,
+especially to those who, like myself, had been engaged on one of the
+prolonged sledging expeditions--the contrast being very great. No
+anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of time, and oblivious of
+everything save our own pleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt
+tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry, the night the same as
+the day, the sun at midnight being as bright as at noon, free from all
+cares, intent only on sport, the time passed in a serene and delightful
+manner, and we were truly sorry when the time came to relinquish our
+gipsying life for a more civilized one on board.
+
+On one of these shooting tours I was away from the ship, accompanied by
+a few choice spirits, for fourteen days. During that time we succeeded
+in obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent geese, which were
+a welcome addition to the fresh meat already obtained for the sick on
+board the ship. What delightful little meals we used to cook for
+ourselves, each one taking his turn, and vying with the others in his
+endeavours to make his dishes excel those of his predecessor!
+
+On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and gizzards of thirteen
+geese served up with a little bacon, these being the perquisites of the
+sportsmen. In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising that a
+return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian and New Zealand beef
+and mutton, was not hailed with delight.
+
+All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing, the tops of the
+hills were bare, and the ravines were rendered almost impassable from
+the mountain torrents that dashed down towards the sea, gaining strength
+and volume as they neared their outlets. These had to be crossed by the
+shooting parties, the water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with
+such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for change of
+clothing, we had none; but on reaching our tents we would get into our
+sleeping-bags and leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature
+at this time being about 40 deg.. A warm supper, with a pannikin of hot tea,
+followed by a glass of grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the
+past in the enjoyment of the present.
+
+[Illustration: BRENT GOOSE AND EIDER DUCKS.]
+
+Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the interior, was
+extremely picturesque. The spot that we selected for our camp was on the
+borders of a lake that formed one of a chain extending to the south
+westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes were beautifully
+carpeted with the pretty little purple saxifrage, a _draba_, a
+_potentilla_, and other wild flowers, while the valleys were covered
+with patches of luxuriant vegetation, consisting of grasses and
+delightfully soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding country
+afforded a striking contrast to what it was but a few short weeks back,
+when still wrapped in its wintry garb.
+
+On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, we were glad to hear
+that our invalids were progressing favourably, and the convalescents
+regaining strength. It was also a source of great gratification to us to
+find a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting floe-bergs,
+and extending from Point Sheridan to as far south as we could see. This
+was a very agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations were
+at once made to release the ship from her icy prison. All stores and
+provisions were re-embarked, instruments were brought on board and
+carefully packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the screw
+lowered, and the engines reported in good working order. Strict orders
+were issued that no one was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence,
+for a longer period than four hours without express permission. Any day
+might see our release! Anxious eyes were constantly directed towards the
+pack, which was now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north and
+south as it felt their influences.
+
+A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on the summit of "Cairn
+Hill," in which was deposited a record stating briefly what had been
+accomplished by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and
+men of both ships. To this document each of the former attached his
+signature. Will this ever be disturbed by our fellow-men?
+
+Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder to blow up the ice
+between the ship and the channel of water that almost tantalized us by
+its existence, and so clear a passage by which we could effect our
+escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to 50 lbs. of powder,
+were used to accomplish this object, and many hours of hard labour were
+expended in the same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the 31st
+of July, our exertions were crowned with success, and great was the
+excitement on board when hurried orders were issued to raise steam with
+all despatch and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind had
+blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear channel of water extending
+as far as could be seen to the southward.
+
+By 7 A.M. the ship was free and afloat, and at eight o'clock the colours
+were hoisted, and we succeeded, without much difficulty, in steaming
+clear of the prison that had for eleven long months so securely held us
+in its icy fetters.
+
+Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on board the "Alert" on
+again hearing the long-silent throbbing of the engines, and knowing that
+the ship was once more in motion?
+
+Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the barren, sterile
+coast, off which we had passed so many happy days, and we could not but
+feel grateful to the kind floe-bergs which had, during that time,
+protected us so well from "ye merciless yce."
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+  [1] As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in
+    which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles)
+    all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily
+    ration.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.
+
+
+  "Let our trusty band
+   Haste to Fatherland,
+   Let our vessel brave
+   Plough the angry wave."
+
+     THORHALL'S _Saga_.
+
+Cape Joseph Henry was lost to sight as the "Alert" rounded Cape Rawson;
+but very heavy ice off Cape Union for a time completely obstructed our
+progress.
+
+Excessive caution was necessary in handling the ship amongst these
+ponderous floes. Patience combined with perseverance are essential
+virtues inseparable to successful ice navigation, and they were
+constantly called into requisition in order to ensure a safe deliverance
+from the dangers which surrounded us.
+
+A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and the ship was moved
+from time to time in order to avoid a "nip." Frequently we would observe
+a heavy floe coming into contact with the large grounded masses of ice
+that lined the coast, forcing them over, or crumbling them into
+shapeless fragments, thus clearly illustrating our own fate should we be
+so unfortunate as to be caught between the two.
+
+The orders "up" and "down screw and rudder" were given and executed
+several times during each day. As on our outward journey, preparations
+were now made for abandoning the ship at a moment's notice. Tents,
+clothing, cooking utensils, and all necessaries for a life on shore were
+spread out on the upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the
+event of such a catastrophe.
+
+The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable loss of our home, and
+the prospect of being cast adrift at a moment's notice, was very
+remarkable. Perhaps the knowledge that our consort, the "Discovery," was
+within some forty miles of us, and therefore within easy travelling
+distance, might account for the light manner in which such a calamity
+was regarded; but it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss
+of our good ship would be a very serious, not to say uncomfortable,
+event.
+
+Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes' notice, so as to take
+advantage of every little opening that might occur in the ice, even
+though we should only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On one
+occasion the ship was purposely forced into the pack, with which it
+drifted to the southward; but on the turn of the tide, when the ice
+began to drift in the opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free
+ourselves from the bondage to which we had voluntarily subjected
+ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best not to allow a ship to get
+beset, even when the drift of the pack is favourable.
+
+As we proceeded south, although our progress was slow, the change in the
+appearance and massiveness of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we
+would meet small specimens of our palaeocrystic friends, over which we
+had travelled during the preceding spring, but, as a rule, the ice was
+of a much lighter description. Still the floes were far heavier than
+those met with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised.
+
+During the time the ship was detained, waiting for the ice to open to
+allow her to proceed, our sportsmen were not idle, landing at all hours
+of the day and night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So
+successful were they in their forays that the sick were supplied with a
+fresh meat meal daily,--geese, ducks, and hares forming the principal
+part of their "bags." The slaughter amongst the former was
+tremendous--entire flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds falling
+victims to the prowess of not more than two guns, and within the short
+space perhaps of half an hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of
+moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring aim of our
+marksmen.
+
+In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we succeeded in raising
+on board, we were able to obtain small quantities of sorrel, which the
+convalescents were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and sides of
+the hills, often returning with sufficient to enable a limited allowance
+to be served out periodically. Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore
+themselves to _browse_ on this excellent antiscorbutic.
+
+On the morning of the 5th of August, being within twenty miles of the
+"Discovery," Egerton, accompanied by one of the men, was sent to give
+them information of our position. Our own ship was then, and had been
+for the past forty-eight hours, effectually jammed by the ice and unable
+to move. In the mean time we on board the "Alert" were endeavouring to
+get our vessel clean, and into something like order and ship-shape. On
+the following morning we sustained a slight "nip," caused by the ice
+setting rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly wrenched before
+the rudder could be unshipped, and the iron tiller was bent and
+crippled. We only succeeded in easing the pressure by exploding some
+charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson, with two of the men
+belonging to the "Discovery," walked on board. We were, of course,
+delighted to see them and to hear news of our consort.
+
+From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost his way, and did not
+arrive on board their ship until after he had been wandering about for
+eighteen hours! The news from the "Discovery" was what we feared.
+Notwithstanding the large amount of musk-ox flesh procured by them
+during the autumn and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew in
+almost the same virulent manner as it had ours. The return journeys of
+some of their sledge parties were simply a repetition of our own.
+Beaumont's division--the one exploring the north-western coast of
+Greenland--had suffered very severely, and we heard with extreme regret
+that two of his small party had succumbed to this terrible disease.
+
+The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet
+returned to the "Discovery," having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit
+their healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our spring campaign,
+on which we had all set out so full of enthusiasm and hope. It had the
+effect, however, of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to
+proceed to England. With such broken-down crews it would have been folly
+indeed to have risked the rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there
+was really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont having done his work so
+well that it would have been impossible for us to have extended any
+exploration in that quarter. The "Discovery" had been afloat for some
+time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea on the arrival of
+Beaumont and his party. Their absence caused us great anxiety, as the
+pack, being in motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and
+consequently where they would have to cross, made us fully alive to the
+risks and dangers they would encounter whilst crossing it. Still we
+hoped to hear of their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor
+alongside our consort in Discovery Bay.
+
+The most important news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene
+period had been discovered within about three miles of their winter
+quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large
+specimens had been carried to the ship--the result of experiments made
+being that it was reported, for steaming purposes, equal to the best
+Welsh coal.
+
+Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape, our naturalist made
+an interesting discovery within two hundred yards of the ship. On the
+beach, about twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some wood
+which, on examination, proved to be portions of sledge runners and
+cross-pieces; also a snow scraper, made from the tusk of a narwhal or
+walrus, and a large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock hollowed
+out.[1] These relics are the most northern traces of Eskimos yet found.
+Their position would lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived
+so far north along the shores on the western side of the channel, and
+from thence crossed over to the opposite Greenland coast; the cliffs to
+the northward being very steep, and although not actually impassable,
+great difficulty would be experienced in travelling along their base.
+This, and the absence of animal life, would readily account for their
+desire to leave such an inhospitable and sterile land.
+
+On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected to some very severe
+squeezes. On the latter day a large floe-berg pressed violently against
+the vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern bodily out of the
+water to a height of about five feet. The noise of the cracking of the
+beams and the groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard will
+never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling of the pitch in the
+deck seams sounded like a shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately
+for us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and therefore
+grounded before it had time to cause the destruction of the ship. It was
+a grand sight to witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs--great
+masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness--turned completely
+over and swept away by the pack in its irresistible career.
+
+[Illustration: REDUCING A FLOE-BERG.]
+
+We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in watching spectacles of
+such magnificence. Our position was by no means pleasant: any pressure
+upon the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must inevitably
+crush her; and the prospect of another winter in the ice began to dawn
+upon us. There was apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the
+preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when once the floe-bergs
+grounded along the coast, they remained immoveable during the whole
+winter, and here were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had
+grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance was to reduce the huge
+mass of ice by which we were imprisoned, so as to lighten it
+sufficiently to float and drift away at high water. It was a bold idea;
+but it was no sooner resolved on than every available working man in the
+ship, irrespective of rank or station, was busily employed with axe,
+pick, or chisel in demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so
+energetically was the work carried out, that the judicious explosion of
+a heavy charge of powder immediately under the berg had the effect of
+floating it away at high water, and the ship was released.
+
+The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good progress, and on the
+following evening had the very great satisfaction of anchoring alongside
+the "Discovery," after having been separated from her for nearly twelve
+months. An interchange of visitors immediately took place. Local news,
+for want of more important intelligence, was fully and freely discussed,
+and the routine of the winter and the doings of the sledge parties
+formed topics of interesting conversation. The prolonged absence of
+Beaumont and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits, for we could
+not hide from ourselves the fact that their journey across the strait
+must be a hazardous one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding
+their safety that he determined upon going in search of them, even over
+to Polaris Bay. Accordingly, on Sunday morning, the 13th of August,
+having transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the "Discovery,"
+and having our own ship's company supplemented by six men from our
+consort, we again made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at the
+entrance of the harbour, through which it was quite impossible to
+penetrate. On the following day, to our great delight, we observed a
+tent pitched on the ice about three miles to the southward of the ship.
+A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours we had the extreme
+pleasure and satisfaction of welcoming Beaumont and his party on board,
+none the worse for what they had recently gone through, and almost
+indignant at all offers of assistance that were made to them. On account
+of the drifting of the pack over which they had been travelling, their
+work, during the last three or four days, had been excessively severe.
+On occasions they were compelled to continue the march for thirty-two
+and twenty-two consecutive hours without resting.
+
+As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable, we were unable to
+advance, although more than one unsuccessful attempt was made to push
+on. On several occasions the dredge was hauled and with good and
+interesting results. The coal seam was also visited by different parties
+of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a
+ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. We
+were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface of the ground, or
+its thickness.
+
+[Illustration: H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE.]
+
+We were also very fortunate in finding a large number of vegetable
+fossils in the surrounding limestone, some of the leaf impressions being
+very clear and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent cave,
+formed by the two sides of the gorge and covered with a roof of frozen
+snow. This roof is apparently permanent, as when we visited the cave it
+was precisely in the same condition as when it was first discovered
+twelve months before! The cave is very large, capable of
+accommodating easily sixty or seventy men.
+
+During these excursions several butterflies were caught and brought on
+board as specimens, as also some flies, gnats, and other _diptera_. Many
+hares were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who had been
+working like a horse in order to bring his patients round.
+
+The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island and the mainland,
+through which we passed in one of our vain attempts to get south, was
+very striking: bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand
+feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines and gorges having
+almost precipitous sides and terminating in bays and little harbours.
+
+On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging, at the expense,
+however, of our rudder head, we succeeded in forcing a passage through
+the ice in Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water extending
+along the coast to the southward, which we fondly hoped would eventually
+lead us into open water.[2] But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed
+uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled to seek refuge
+inside a land-locked and apparently well-protected and secure harbour.
+How deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had elapsed after
+entering this sheltered retreat, before the "Alert" was severely nipped
+by a heavy floe and forced on shore.
+
+For many hours the ship remained in a very critical position, as the
+tide receding left her completely high and dry, and listed over at an
+angle of 25 deg..
+
+So steep was the bank on which we had been forced, that at low water we
+were able to walk, "dry shod," from the stem to the main chains, whilst
+aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within a short distance of
+the taff-rail. A good sensational photograph and some sketches were made
+of the ship in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were, of
+course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel. The fore part was
+entirely cleared, and the chain cables brought aft. A bower anchor was
+laid out astern in order to haul the ship off to.
+
+The manner in which this latter work was performed was both novel and
+ingenious. A small but heavy piece of ice was secured and brought
+alongside the ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft. It was
+then towed by boats to the position decided upon, when the raft was
+destroyed by exploding a charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it,
+the anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom.
+
+With such good will did all work, that we had the joy and satisfaction
+of seeing our good ship afloat, and ready to proceed, in about fifteen
+hours from the time of the accident taking place. The bay, which was the
+scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings Bay, after one of our men, who
+was my sledge captain in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the
+horn of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where the ship was
+aground, proving that the neighbourhood is occasionally visited by these
+animals.
+
+From this time, until the 9th of September, we were engaged in a
+never-ceasing struggle with the ice, frequently detained for many hours,
+and rarely advancing more than a few hundred yards during the day. The
+fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantly of the near approach of
+winter, whilst the land had again assumed its wintry covering of snow.
+On the 22nd of August candles had to be used below at midnight for
+reading or writing. The young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and
+cementing the broken fragments of floes together. This caused such an
+impediment to our advance, although the pack was what is termed loose,
+that we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish all attempts
+at penetrating farther, and to secure the ships until a more favourable
+opportunity should occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly
+small, and had to be very carefully economized. Without the means of
+steaming, our chance of escape would, indeed, have been small.
+
+On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;[3] on the 27th,[4] so slow was our
+progress, that we only just succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where
+we were detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature had fallen
+to 19 deg.. Last year we were frozen up on the 3rd of September, and here
+were we on the same date with as low a temperature and many miles to
+accomplish before we could actually be clear of the ice!
+
+Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything appeared gloomy and
+inhospitable. As there was now a prospect of our being forcibly detained
+for another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions were
+getting low, on passing the large depot established in Dobbin Bay on our
+way up the previous year, we landed and brought off all the tea, sugar,
+and chocolate, and such other articles as we were likely to require.
+
+Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground seal (_Phoca barbata_)
+was shot by Hans, of the "Discovery," on which was found a partially
+healed wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon with an
+ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction, was discovered imbedded
+in its blubber. It would have been very interesting if we could have
+traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the tribe to which it had
+belonged and the locality where the wound was inflicted.
+
+One morning, when some little distance from the land, a small fox, of a
+mottled colour, wandered off to the ship, being attracted towards us
+either by hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always on the
+_alert_, soon spied the little animal cruising about amongst the
+hummocks and shot it. The skin was preserved with the collection of
+natural history specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner and
+found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks, and Allman Bay, an inlet
+which was named after the distinguished President of the Linnaean
+Society, we continued to push the ships in the direction of open water
+to the south, which we at length reached.
+
+It was with no small amount of thankfulness that on the 9th of September
+we emerged from the cold, grim clutches that seemed only too ready to
+detain us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King, and that we
+felt our ship rise and fall once more on the bosom of an undoubted ocean
+swell. It was, indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see nothing
+but blue water, and, with the exception of a few straggling bergs, not
+a single speck of ice in sight. This broad sheet of water had for some
+time been known to us, having been observed from the summits of various
+hills that we had ascended, and all our energies of late had been
+concentrated into reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance and
+patience ultimately proved triumphant.
+
+[Illustration: ALLMAN BAY.]
+
+On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with a thin layer of
+young ice, which offered a great deal of hindrance, although it had not
+the effect of checking us altogether. Our course through this young ice
+could be distinctly traced for a long distance astern, by a broad lane
+of water resembling the Suez Canal. At 6 P.M. we passed Cape Sabine, and
+distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island apparently
+untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella, towards which we steered.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+  [1] I have already referred to this discovery in my remarks on the
+    migrations of the Eskimos, at p. 69.
+
+  [2] At this time the "Pandora" was cruising in the entrance of Smith
+    Sound, with an impenetrable barrier of ice blocking her way to the
+    northward.
+
+  [3] On this day the "Pandora" succeeded in landing a party on Cape
+    Isabella for the second time, searching for a record.
+
+  [4] On the 27th the "Pandora" was driven out of Smith Sound by a
+    gale.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+HOMEWARD BOUND.
+
+
+  "Still in the yawning trough the vessel reels,
+   Ingulfed beneath two fluctuating hills;
+   On either side they rise, tremendous scene,
+   A long dark melancholy vale between.
+   The balanced ship, now forward, now behind,
+   Still felt the impression of the waves and wind,
+   And to the right and left by turns inclined."
+
+     FALCONER.
+
+  "_Montano._--What from the cape can you discern at sea?
+
+   _1st Gent._--Nothing at all: it is a high-wrought flood;
+              I cannot, 'twixt the heaven and the main,
+              Descry a sail.
+
+    _Montano._--Let's to the seaside, ho!
+
+   _3rd Gent._--Come, let's do so;
+              For every moment is expectancy
+              Of more arrivance. (_Within._) A sail! A sail!
+
+   _4th Gent._--The town is empty; on the brow of the sea
+              Stand ranks of people, and they cry--a sail!"
+
+     _Othello._
+
+Shortly before midnight, on the 9th of September, Cape Isabella was
+reached and the ships were clear of Smith Sound. As, on our outward
+journey, to me had been allotted the duty of erecting a cairn on that
+prominent headland, and establishing a post office, so, on our return
+journey, was I assigned the duty of visiting the place in order to
+ascertain if letters had been deposited there during the period of our
+absence by any enterprising friend. On reaching the lower cairn, to my
+great surprise--for we hardly expected that any one would have visited
+the place since our departure the previous year--I found an additional
+cask had been placed alongside the one that I had established there.
+This was quickly opened, and found to contain a small mail for each
+ship.
+
+Hurriedly leaving a record notifying our visit, we eagerly seized our
+treasures and made the best of our way to the boat. Great was the
+excitement when the news spread that a mail from England was actually on
+board, and we were soon deep in the enjoyment of perusing late letters
+from home, a pleasure to which we had so long been strangers.
+
+Many were the heartfelt expressions of gratitude that rose to the lips
+of those lucky recipients of home news towards that gallant officer and
+friend who had so perseveringly and so generously, in spite of many
+dangers and difficulties, succeeded in depositing their letters so far
+north. The bulk of our mail we imagined had been left either at Disco or
+Upernivik. Had we examined the cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, we
+should there have learnt that the same kind and disinterested friend had
+taken them to Littleton Island, and there safely deposited them. Being
+ignorant of this fact, and the weather being against our proceeding
+thither, a course was shaped to the southward; those who were under the
+impression that our English letters were really on that island being
+consoled by the fact that we were steering homewards, and that in a
+short time letters would be no longer necessary or of any value.
+
+Wars, and rumours of wars, were prevalent, for our latest news came from
+England at the time when all Europe was disturbed and unsettled by the
+complexion of affairs in the East.
+
+This made us all the more anxious to get home quickly; but alas!
+everything was against us. Tempestuous weather, with the wind _always_
+contrary, was our introduction to our own element, and, as our coal was
+running very short, we were obliged to put the ships under canvas and
+thrash them at it. Icebergs were innumerable, and, as the nights were
+increasing in length and the darkness in density, they were anything but
+pleasant neighbours.
+
+On the 12th of September it was blowing so hard and the weather was so
+thick, that it was determined to seek an anchorage under the lee of the
+land in Whale Sound, and there wait until the weather moderated. With
+this object the ships were worked up under fore and aft sails and steam,
+eventually anchoring in a small bay (Bardin Bay) in close proximity to
+the Tyndall Glacier. As we came in we observed an Eskimo settlement on
+the eastern side of the bay, and several natives were seen running along
+the land towards us; but as the glacier intervened they were unable to
+communicate, and the weather was too bad to allow us to send a boat to
+them. This was much to be deplored, as, irrespective of the fact that
+these people were the first human beings that we had seen for many a
+long month, it was desirable that we should propitiate them in favour of
+white men, and for this purpose we had many little articles of infinite
+value to them, such as knives, needles, thread, scissors, etc., besides
+provisions, ready for their acceptance.
+
+These natives were of the same tribe as those who were so kind to Kane
+and Hayes, and also to the "Polaris," so it would have been a good
+action, independently of all other reasons, could we have befriended
+them.
+
+We had not been at anchor, however, more than five hours before a change
+of wind, accompanied by heavy squalls which came over the hills fast and
+furious, obliged us to get under weigh, and again put to sea, although
+the weather was as thick and the wind as strong as ever--added to which
+hail and snow showers were frequent: altogether a very unpleasant and
+miserable night was spent, for it was nearly midnight when we were
+forced to fly from our harbour.
+
+On the 16th we were beating about off the entrance to Lancaster Sound,
+near Cape Byam Martin. This was all familiar ground to me, and brought
+back to my recollection scenes on board the old whaler, "Arctic," that
+had occurred in the same locality three years before. We made many tacks
+in our endeavours to weather Cape Walter Bathurst, but, for a long time,
+without success, for the wind invariably headed us on each tack.
+
+On the 20th several eider-ducks, some turnstones, rotges, and
+snow-buntings were seen, but all going in a southerly direction,
+apparently anxious to seek warmer climes before the winter should have
+claimed both the sea and land. How we envied these birds their means of
+locomotion! for foul and strong winds causing slow progress, were
+beginning to be very irksome. Our old friends the "mollies" (fulmar
+petrels), that we had not seen for so long, again joined us, and might
+be seen continually darting down and picking up in their voracious maws
+all scraps that had been thrown overboard.
+
+[Illustration: FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES").]
+
+The persistent manner in which the bad weather clung to us was quite
+marvellous. Hardly a fine day had been enjoyed since we emerged from the
+ice. The words of Falconer would have been applicable to us, and might
+have been repeated with truth every morning:
+
+  "A lowering squall obscures the southern sky,
+   Before whose sweeping breath the waters fly.
+
+        *     *     *     *     *
+
+   It comes resistless! and with foaming sweep,
+   Upturns the whitening surface of the deep."
+
+At length, after being buffeted about for many days, the high land of
+Disco was sighted on the 25th of September; and on the same day we came
+to an anchor in the little harbour of Godhavn, and congratulated
+ourselves once more upon our return to civilization.
+
+The day, as if to make up for our previous bad weather, was a bright
+sunny one, and perfectly still and calm. This was all the more
+appreciated after the turbulent seas which had lately almost driven us
+distracted. The scenery coming in was very beautiful. On one side were
+the high cliffs of Disco, intersected here and there with deep fiords
+and bays, whilst on the other lay the perfectly quiescent sea, studded
+with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Occasionally the surface of the
+water would be ruffled and disturbed by the appearance of a seal's head,
+as the inquisitive little animal would pop it up to gaze curiously at us
+as we steamed slowly by; or else a whale, as he swam lazily along, would
+give a flick with his huge tail, or spout a jet of water in the air,
+which might be taken either as a welcome back to more genial climes, or
+an angry remonstrance that a monster larger than himself should dare to
+live in his own particular domain. Birds flew around and alighted near
+us. One, a ger-falcon, was so bold as to venture to perch upon our
+fore-royal truck; but, I am ashamed to relate, was fired at for its
+misplaced confidence. It escaped, however, unhurt. Everything was bright
+and joyous, and all were happy and elated. Our joy was slightly marred
+on arrival to find that our mails had really been taken on and left at
+Littleton Island; but a mail, with letters of a later date than those
+brought out by the "Pandora," which had been got together and made up
+for us at Copenhagen by my cousin, had just arrived in the Danish brig
+"Tjalfe."
+
+Of course it could not be expected that, during the period of our
+absence from England, no sad changes should have taken place, and the
+sorrowful faces of more than one among us testified to the fact that
+some dear and loved ones would be seen no more in this world.
+
+From Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, we learnt that the "Pandora" had
+only taken her departure for England four days previously, having been
+unsuccessful in her endeavours to reach Cape Sabine. The attempt had
+only been relinquished by her commander when the lateness of the season
+compelled him to beat a retreat. A supply of beer, sent from England by
+my cousin, was found awaiting our arrival, and was most acceptable. A
+cask of beer had also been kindly left for our use by Allen Young, so
+that we were enabled to supply "all hands" with a glass of beer twice a
+week during the passage to England. Through the kindness of the Danish
+authorities, we were able to obtain thirty tons of coal, with a promise
+of thirty more if we chose to go to Egedesminde, another settlement
+about sixty miles to the southward. This was an offer too valuable to be
+disregarded, and was accepted by Captain Nares.
+
+Having shifted our rudder, which, to use an American phrase, was "pretty
+considerably chawed up," from its treatment by the ice, and made good a
+few other defects, we took our departure from Godhavn on the morning of
+the 28th, Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, coming on board to accompany
+us round to Egedesminde. As we steamed out of harbour the little
+three-gun battery fired a farewell salute, the ensigns on shore, and on
+board, were dipped, and the ladies (two in number), from their
+verandahs, waved with their pocket handkerchiefs a last adieu. It was a
+fine clear morning as we left; but a thick fog soon overtook us, in
+which we remained enveloped for the remainder of the day, and it was not
+until the following morning that we reached our destination.
+
+Our way took us through a perfect labyrinth of small islands, some of
+the narrow channels through which we had to pass being almost blocked by
+large grounded masses of ice, remnants of icebergs. The "Alert" and
+"Discovery" being the first steamers that had ever visited Egedesminde,
+the natives turned out in force to witness our arrival. Several kayaks
+came skimming rapidly along the smooth and unruffled surface of the
+water as we approached, their occupants gazing with evident astonishment
+at the large "umiaks," whose motive power was to them invisible and
+incomprehensible. The Danish flag was run up on three separate
+flag-staves on shore, and a salute of seven guns was fired to welcome
+our arrival.
+
+There is much similarity about the various Danish settlements in
+Greenland. The houses are of the same size and colour, and generally of
+about the same number, whilst all possess their little church, their
+storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement is very prettily
+situated on the northern side of the largest of a group of many islands
+of all sizes. These are of the same metamorphic formation, and possess
+a more luxuriant vegetation than we had hitherto seen. The island is
+covered with numerous small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and
+swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking up to the ankles in a
+bog, is very great.
+
+The population of Egedesminde, which is the most southern settlement in
+the Inspectorate of North Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty
+souls, including the Danes, who with the Governor and his family number
+about twelve. The entire population of North Greenland is about four
+thousand three hundred.
+
+The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and stacked during the summer,
+and when dried is very generally used as fuel. The chief employment of
+the inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of collecting
+skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained on the mainland, but they are
+not plentiful.
+
+The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to present us with a fine
+large haunch of venison; but, curious to relate, when served up, it had
+an unmistakeable taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic patients, who
+were at this time nearly all convalescent, benefited largely from the
+quantities of fresh fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place.
+
+On the morning of the 2nd of October, having received on board the
+amount of coal promised, we bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed
+away amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of colours. The
+stoppages at these two civilized places were very pleasant breaks to us,
+after our long absence from society of any description, except our own,
+and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the kindness and true
+hospitality extended to us by our Danish friends in the different
+settlements in Northern Greenland will long be remembered with feelings
+of gratitude and pleasure.
+
+From the date of leaving this our last port until our arrival at
+Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous weather. Strong head winds
+were in constant attendance, and the ship's general state was being
+"battened down and under close-reefed topsails." Under these
+circumstances our daily rate of progress was remarkably slow, and on
+some days we found that we had actually increased our distance from home
+instead of having lessened it. Few on board had before experienced a
+longer continuance of really stormy weather. From the severe buffeting
+we received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to such a state
+as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head being almost wrenched off,
+and we were obliged to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage
+by means of the rudder pendants.
+
+On the 16th of October, to the intense surprise of everybody, a vessel
+was sighted ahead, which proved to be the "Pandora." How very small is
+this world we live in! Here were we in the middle of the broad Atlantic,
+fifteen hundred miles from England, and out of the course of all ships,
+and yet actually meeting a vessel that had purposely come out to seek
+us.
+
+The weather was too bad to allow us to communicate, but an interchange
+of news was effected by signal. The three ships remained in company for
+a couple of days, when they lost sight of each other in thick and blowy
+weather, we having previously ordered the "Discovery" to rendezvous at
+Queenstown in case of parting company.
+
+Our rudder being in such a dilapidated state, Captain Nares determined
+upon putting in to Valentia for the purpose of shifting it, the spare
+one having in the mean time been temporarily repaired. With this object
+we anchored in the snug little harbour of Valentia, on the 27th of
+October, and here Captain Nares and several of the officers left for the
+purpose of proceeding at once to London to report our arrival.
+
+  "Now, strike your sayles, yee jolly mariners,
+   For we be come unto a quiet rode,
+   Where we must land some of our passengers
+   And light this wearie vessel of her lode.
+   Here she awhile may make her safe abode."
+
+It is in vain to attempt to describe the pleasure we all felt at
+beholding trees and green fields once more, with the cattle browsing in
+them. It is difficult at once to throw off old habits, and there were
+many on board who expressed their anxiety to land at once with their
+guns for the purpose of shooting "that herd of musk-oxen." Had we given
+way to our inclinations, I fear our reception would not have been so
+warm or so hospitable as it was.
+
+The people of Valentia were the first to bid us welcome. Their kindness
+and hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. The rudder having
+been shifted, and sundry repairs executed, we took our departure on the
+following morning at daylight, being guided out of the place by a most
+eccentric and original old pilot. On the 29th we reached Queenstown,
+where we found the "Discovery" had arrived only a couple of hours
+before. Here again we received a warm welcome and enjoyed that hearty
+hospitality for which the Irish people are so justly celebrated. That
+evening we were the guests of the Port Admiral, he and Mrs. Hillyar
+hearing of no refusal, although we had to sit down to dinner in--well,
+clothes very dirty and very much the worse for wear. The next day,
+having taken in a supply of coals, we started for Portsmouth, the two
+ships remaining in company and arriving in that harbour together on the
+2nd of November.
+
+Our reception there and afterwards is a matter of history. Suffice it to
+say that our exertions received the approbation of our country and of
+our brother officers, and that the Lords of the Admiralty were pleased
+to express their satisfaction at the manner in which the expedition had
+been conducted by our leader, as well as at the way in which the work
+had been carried out by his subordinates.
+
+My story has now come to an end. My aim has been to describe our daily
+life during a very eventful service.
+
+I have quoted largely from my journal, and in some instances I have
+thought it best to copy from it _verbatim_.
+
+Nothing is further from my thoughts than to claim for this narrative any
+literary merit whatever. I simply wish it to be regarded as a plain but
+accurate statement of facts--an unpretending account of the cruise of
+one of the ships of the late expedition--by one of its members.
+
+In launching my little book upon the ocean of literature, I venture to
+quote the words of brave old Master Beste, who, being engaged in
+compiling a record of another Arctic expedition, humbly apologizes, as I
+do, for submitting his work to the public:--"And herein I humbly pray
+pardon, for my rude order of writing, which proceedeth from the barren
+brayne of a souldier and one professing armes, who desireth rather to be
+wel thought of with your honour for his well meaning than for anye hys
+cunning writing at all."
+
+[Illustration: _FAREWELL!_]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  Admiralty, Lords of, visit to the Polar ships, 9;
+    satisfaction at the results of the expedition, 368.
+
+  Admiralty Inlet, remains of Eskimos on shores of, 68.
+
+  Albert Head, 65.
+
+  Aldebaran, erratic conduct of, 200.
+
+  Aldrich, Lieut. Pelham, R.N., skill in managing a kayak, 30;
+    starts on a reconnoitring expedition in the autumn, 128;
+    second autumn journey with dog-sledge, 133;
+    starts on a third autumn journey, 136, 137;
+    ascends a hill near Cape Joseph Henry, 147;
+    glees by, 169, 216;
+    his lecture on meteorology, 169;
+    orchestra for the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171, 175, 214;
+    plays the harmonium at church, 187;
+    one of his dogs lost, 190;
+    plays at Christmas, 194, 195;
+    commands the extended party to the west, 241;
+    anxiety for his safety, 331;
+    return, 332.
+
+  Ale, prepared specially for the expedition, 17.
+    (_See_ Beer.)
+
+  "Alert," H.M.S., 1, 2;
+    special fittings, 3;
+    departure from Portsmouth, 9;
+    leaves Berehaven, 12;
+    commencement of the voyage, 15;
+    a lively ship, 17;
+    arrival at Godhavn, 26;
+    departure from Godhavn, 34;
+    on shore, 43;
+    proceeds to Cary Islands, 48;
+    Port Foulke, 51, 56;
+    perilous position of, 65, 91;
+    at Hannah Island, 100;
+    in Discovery Harbour, 104, 108, 293;
+    on shore near Cape Beechey, 112;
+    in the palaeocrystic ice, 117, 118;
+    crosses the threshold of the unknown region, 119;
+    danger at Floe-berg Beach, 125, 134;
+    precarious winter quarters, 125, 135, 136;
+    housed in, 154;
+    internal winter arrangements, 156;
+    printing establishment, 165;
+    departure of sledges from, 257;
+    scurvy breaks out on board, 321;
+    succour from, reaches N. division, 325;
+    freed from winter quarters, 342;
+    forced on shore, 351;
+    afloat again, 347;
+    at Valentia, 367.
+    (_See_ Winter Quarters.)
+
+  "Alexandra," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.
+
+  Alexandra Bay, 61, 63.
+
+  Amusements in winter quarters, 167;
+    importance of, 163.
+    (_See_ Theatricals.)
+
+  _Anonyx nugax_: crustacea brought up at the extreme northern point, 309
+    (_n._).
+
+  Arctic Circle crossed by the expedition, 26.
+
+  Arctic Highlanders, 48.
+    (_See_ Eskimo.)
+
+  Arctic school, 166, 167, 213.
+
+  Arctic theatre. (_See_ Theatricals.)
+
+  "Arctic," whaler, reminiscences of, 360.
+
+  Astronomical observatory, 153, 180.
+
+  Astronomy, lecture on, by Captain Nares, 169;
+    by Commander Markham, 169.
+
+  Atanekerdluk, fossil plants at, 36.
+
+  Atlantic, gales of wind in, 17, 18.
+
+  Auks, Little. (_See_ Rotges.)
+
+  Autumn depot. (_See_ Depots.)
+
+  Autumn travelling, 128, 129, 133, 137 to 150;
+    discomfort, 141;
+    severe work, 147, 148;
+    return from, 148, 149;
+    results, 149.
+
+  Auxiliary sledges, 234.
+
+  Ayles, Adam, song by, 216.
+
+
+  Bache Island, of Hayes, not an island, 64.
+
+  Baffin, William, gave name to Woman Isles, 41.
+
+  Bag (sleeping), 139, 233, 235, 240, 279, 283, 287.
+
+  Baird Inlet, 57.
+
+  Baird, Cape, stopped by ice off, 103.
+
+  Banks Island, heavy pack on west coast, 200.
+
+  Bantry Bay. (_See_ Berehaven.)
+
+  Bardin Bay, 359.
+
+  Barrow, Cape John, 93.
+
+  Bears, hunt in Melville Bay, 46;
+    recent tracks, 86.
+
+  Beaumont, Lieutenant, H.M.S. "Discovery," his journey along the north
+      coast of Greenland, 346;
+    return of, 350.
+
+  Beechey, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
+    lane of water in direction of, 102, 112, 113;
+    rounded, 114.
+
+  Beer at Godhavn, 363.
+
+  Bellot, Cape, 103, 112;
+    Island, 112, 351.
+
+  Berehaven, expedition at, 12.
+
+  Bessels Bay, entrance passed, 100;
+    description of, 101.
+
+  Bessels, Dr., observation as to meetings of tides at Cape Fraser, 92;
+    coast-line correctly delineated by, 99.
+
+  Beverley, crimson cliffs of, 48.
+
+  Bide-a-wee Harbour, 58.
+    (_See_ Payer Harbour.)
+
+  Bills of fare, 185, 186, 196, 335.
+    (_See_ Play-bills.)
+
+  Birds of the Arctic regions, 24, 35, 50;
+    Brent geese, 345;
+    dovekies, 50, 101;
+    eider duck, 101, 131, 360;
+    falcon, 362;
+    fulmar petrel, 361;
+    glaucous gulls, 50;
+    ivory gulls, 50, 101;
+    kittiwakes, 50;
+    king ducks, 50, 332;
+    knots, 110;
+    looms, 40, 50;
+    ptarmigan, 225;
+    rotges, 46, 50, 360;
+    skuas, 332;
+    terns, 110, 332;
+    turnstones, 360.
+
+  Birthdays, celebration of, 184, 185.
+
+  Black, Cape, 253.
+
+  Blasting the ice, 87, 89, 90, 341, 349.
+
+  "Bloodhound," H.M. sledge, 259, 263.
+
+  Boats for the expedition, 4;
+    search for, left by Hayes, 53, 55;
+    on a sledge, 58;
+    jolly-boat of "Valorous" landed in Dobbin Bay, 84;
+    turned in on their davits owing to height of ice, 90;
+    advanced to northward of ship, 133;
+    hauled up during winter quarters, 157;
+    on sledges, 242 (_n._);
+    in Parry's expedition, details of, 243 (_n._);
+    painted, 245;
+    care of, on sledge, 279;
+    abandonment of, by Commander Markham, 288, 289, 318.
+
+  Boldroe, Mr., governor of Egedesminde, 365.
+
+  Botanical collections, 31.
+
+  Botany. (_See_ Vegetation.)
+
+  Bottle-nose whales, 20.
+
+  Brent geese, 345.
+
+  Brevoort Island, 57;
+    cairn on, 356.
+
+  Brevoort Cape in sight, 103.
+
+  "Bruin," largest dog on board, 210.
+
+  Bryant, Geo., H.M.S. "Discovery," serving in the "Alert," 169.
+
+  Buchanan Strait, Eskimo remains at, 69.
+
+  "Bulldog," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.
+
+  Burroughs, Geo., ship's steward, H.M.S. "Alert," acts in _Chops of the
+      Channel_, 173.
+
+  Butterflies, 351.
+
+  Byam Martin Cape, 360.
+
+
+  Cairns at the Cary Islands, 49;
+    at Life-boat Cove, 53;
+    at Cape Isabella, 56;
+    on Brevoort Island, 356;
+    ancient cairns on Washington Irving Island, 85;
+    on Hannah Island, 101;
+    at Lincoln Bay, 117;
+    at the "Alert's" winter quarters, 284.
+
+  Cairn Hill, 219, 220, 221, 225;
+    cairn built, 341.
+
+  Cane, Frederick, armourer, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 215.
+
+  Carl Ritter Bay, 99.
+
+  Cary Islands, 48;
+    depot on, 49, 84.
+
+  Castletown. (_See_ Berehaven.)
+
+  Cave in the snow, 350.
+
+  Cetaceans, various kinds, 20, 21.
+
+  "Challenger," H.M. sledge, 217, 259.
+
+  Chlorine observations, 180.
+
+  _Chops of the Channel_, play acted by the men, 173.
+
+  Chorus, grand palaeocrystic, 216.
+
+  Christmas in the Arctic regions, 192 to 197;
+    bill of fare, 196;
+    poem on, 196.
+
+  Clavering, Captain, Eskimo seen by, on east coast of Greenland, 69.
+
+  "Clements Markham," H.M. sledge, 217;
+    starts for "Discovery," 248.
+
+  Clements Markham Inlet, 288.
+
+  Clothing during winter, 159, 160;
+    sledging, 239.
+    (_See_ Foot-gear.)
+
+  Coal, discovery of, 350;
+    offer of, at Egedesminde, 363.
+
+  Cod-fish, 21, 25, 365.
+
+  Colan, Dr., H.M.S. "Alert," his lecture on food in the Arctic regions,
+      169;
+    medical instructions to officers of sledges, 238;
+    skilful treatment of Petersen, 255;
+    attention to scurvy patients, 333, 338, 345.
+
+  Cold, extreme, 208, 222, 224.
+    (_See_ Temperature.)
+
+  Collinson, Cape, 94.
+
+  Cook, while sledging, 235, 265.
+
+  Cooking apparatus, weight, 233;
+    description, 235.
+
+  Copenhagen, letters sent out from, 363.
+
+  Coppinger, Dr., H.M.S. "Discovery," state of lime-juice found by, in
+       Polaris Bay, 305;
+    journey with Lieut. Beaumont, 346.
+
+  Cress. (_See_ Mustard and Cress.)
+
+  Crimson cliffs of Beverley, 48.
+
+  Crinoids dredged up, 73.
+
+  Crow's-nest, description, 3;
+    Captain Nares constantly in, 66;
+    a cold berth, 98.
+
+  Crozier Island passed, 98.
+
+  Crustaceans dredged up at the extreme northern point, 309.
+
+  Cryolite mine in Greenland, 20.
+
+  Crystal Palace Glacier, 50.
+
+
+  Dancing at Christmas, 197;
+    old year, 204.
+
+  Darkness, approach of, 127;
+    in sledge travelling, 141;
+    in winter, 178, 182;
+    monotony of, 207.
+
+  Davis, John, musicians in the expedition of, 8;
+    gave name to Cape Desolation, 22, 23.
+
+  Davis Strait, 18, 19, 20.
+
+  Daylight. (_See_ Light.)
+
+  Deaths. (_See_ Petersen, Porter, "Discovery.")
+
+  Depots on Cary Isles, 49;
+    Cape Isabella, 56;
+    Dobbin Bay, 85, 353;
+    Cape Collinson, 95;
+    Cape Morton, 102;
+    Lincoln Bay, 117, 248;
+    Floe-berg Beach, 122, 124;
+    near Cape Joseph Henry, 147, 149, 263, 321;
+    to southward of Floe Berg Beach for "Discovery" sledges, 255;
+    for sledge parties, 234.
+
+  "Deptford," snow storehouse so called, 154.
+
+  Desolation, Cape, 22.
+
+  Diptera, 351.
+
+  Disco, 6, 18, 34, 358, 362;
+    tradition of, 33, 34;
+    view from hills of, 31.
+    (_See_ Godhavn.)
+
+  Disco Bay, 31.
+
+  "Discovery," H.M.S., 95;
+    departure from Portsmouth, 9;
+    commencement of voyage, 15;
+    sighted off Greenland coast, 25;
+    towed by the "Alert," 41;
+    following, 45;
+    sent to communicate with natives at Cape York, 48;
+    at Port Foulke, 56;
+    perilous position, 65;
+    grounds off Cape Louis Napoleon, 90;
+    in great danger, 91;
+    blown from her anchors, 95;
+    lands a depot at Cape Morton, 100;
+    in harbour, 104;
+    winter quarters of, 107;
+    sledge crew from, joins the "Alert," 108;
+    theatre on board, 174;
+    a health to, 217;
+    depots laid out for sledges of, 227;
+    work of sledge parties, 242;
+    arrangement for opening communication with, from "Alert," 246, 255;
+    to return to England, 330;
+    joined by "Alert," 344, 345;
+    scurvy among crew of, 346;
+    two deaths, 346;
+    rendezvous at Queenstown, 367.
+
+  Discovery Harbour, 104, 106, 112;
+    "Alert" arrives at, 347.
+
+  Distant, Cape, walk to, 110;
+    "Alert" passes, 112.
+
+  Divine service, 187;
+    on Christmas day, 195;
+    before sledges start, 258, 259.
+
+  Dobbin Bay, 83, 86;
+    depot at, 84, 353.
+
+  Dock cut in the ice at Dobbin Bay, 86.
+
+  Dockyard. (_See_ Portsmouth.)
+
+  Dog-driver. (_See_ Petersen.)
+
+  Dogs, Eskimo, 29, 38, 78, 79;
+    disease, 79;
+    wailing, 88;
+    habits, 130;
+    sledging, 80, 81, 128;
+    dog "Sallie" lost and found, 190, 191;
+    alarm of during winter, 199;
+    nearly steal musk-ox beef, 207;
+    alarm caused by, 210;
+    regularly fed, 210;
+    team sent with sledge to "Discovery," 247, 255;
+    trouble with, 253.
+    (_See_ Bruin, Sallie, Flo, Nellie.)
+
+  Dovekies, 50, 101, 115.
+
+  Draba, 57, 340.
+
+  Dredging, 25, 73, 102.
+
+  Driftwood, 112.
+
+  Drip. (_See_ Snow.)
+
+  Drip, inconvenience of, in winter, 182.
+
+  Ducks. (_See_ Birds.)
+
+  Dumb-bell Bay, 131.
+
+  Dundas Harbour, remains of Eskimos at, 68.
+
+  D'Urville, Cape, passed, 83.
+
+
+  Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.
+
+  Egedesminde, offer of coals at, 363;
+    expedition at, 364, 365.
+
+  Egerton, Lieut. George Le Clerc, R.N., officer of the watch when the
+      ship touched the first ice, 22;
+    starts on autumn travelling, 133;
+    stage manager of the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171;
+    parts taken by, 174, 214;
+    sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
+    sent to open communication with "Discovery," 247;
+    his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
+    second start for the "Discovery," 255;
+    sent to the "Discovery," 345.
+
+  Eider ducks, 131, 360.
+
+  Electricity, observations on, 180.
+
+  Ellesmere Land, 50.
+
+  Eskimo, Frederic, 29, 128;
+    Hans Hendrick, 39, 48, 354;
+    pilot, 42.
+    (_See_ Dogs.)
+
+  Eskimos, 33;
+    at Proven, 38;
+    Cape York, 48;
+    Etah, 52;
+    traces of, in Payer Harbour, 58;
+    in Twin-glacier Bay, 61, 62;
+    wanderings, 67, 69;
+    Admiral Sherard Osborn and Mr. Clements Markham on wanderings of, 68,
+      69;
+    remains on Capes Sabine, Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, Fraser,
+      shores of Buchanan Strait, Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Isle, 69;
+    at Admiralty Inlet and Dundas Harbour, 68;
+    at Cape Beechey, 69, 347;
+    in Whale Sound, 359.
+
+  Etah, native village, 52, 69.
+
+  Eugenie, H.I.H. the Empress, present of woollen caps from, 7, 236, 239,
+      287;
+    visits the Arctic ships, 8.
+
+  Exercise during winter, 181, 187;
+    for sledging crews, 227, 228.
+
+
+  Falcon, 362.
+
+  Farewell banquets, 8;
+    to the expedition at Portsmouth, 9, 10, 11;
+    to the "Valorous," 35.
+
+  Farewell Cape, 19, 23, 69.
+
+  Feilden, Captain, naturalist, H.M.S. "Alert," ascends hill above
+      Bessels Bay, 101;
+    visits Distant Cape, 110;
+    his lecture on geology, 169;
+    picks up skulls in Rawlings Bay, 352.
+    (_See_ Naturalist.)
+
+  Ferbrache, Wm., sledge crew, N. division, symptoms of scurvy, 306.
+
+  Figure-heads of the Arctic ships, 4.
+
+  Finner whale, 20.
+
+  Fire, precautions against, fire-hole, 160, 161;
+    alarm of, 226.
+
+  Fishing on the Torske bank, 25.
+
+  Fiskernaes, expedition off, 24.
+
+  Fitting out the expedition, 1 to 8.
+
+  "Flo," Eskimo dog, met with adrift, near Cape Joseph Henry, 323.
+
+  Floes. (_See_ Ice.)
+
+  Floe-bergs, description of, 114;
+    "Alert" secured inside a fringe of, 122, 125;
+    split by intense cold, 211.
+
+  Floe-berg Beach, depot at, 122, 124;
+    desolate scene at, 126;
+    view from, 127;
+    winter quarters at, 132.
+
+  Flowers. (_See_ Vegetation.)
+
+  Foot-ball on the ice, 77.
+
+  Foot-gear, while sledging, 260, 261, 268, 280.
+
+  Foraminifera brought up at the extreme north point, 309.
+
+  Fossils, collections in Bessels Bay, 102;
+    in the coal, 350.
+
+  Fossil plants, at Atanekerdluk, 37;
+    in the coal near Discovery Harbour, 350.
+
+  Foulke Port, 51, 56, 69, 330.
+
+  Foxes, traces of, 60, 107;
+    fox shot, 354.
+
+  Fox trap, 68.
+
+  Francombe, Reuben, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.
+
+  Franklin Pierce Bay, 72.
+
+  Fraser, Cape, 55, 72;
+    Eskimo remains on, 68;
+    passed by the ships, 92;
+    meeting of the tides, 93;
+    rounded, going south, 353.
+
+  Frederick VII., Cape, ship in danger off, 114.
+
+  Frederic, 29, 128.
+    (_See_ Eskimo.)
+
+  Freezing, experiments in, 223.
+
+  Fresh meat, 186.
+    (_See_ musk-ox, hares, Brent geese.)
+
+  Frost-bites, danger of, 81;
+    Petersen frost-bitten in the autumn, 129;
+    danger of, in autumn travelling, 142;
+    many frost-bites in return autumn journey, 147;
+    Lieut. May's severe frost-bite, 148;
+    other frost-bites and amputations, 148;
+    sufferers during the winter, 198;
+    precautions against, 199, 208;
+    on the dog sledge, in journey to "Discovery," 249.
+
+  "Frost-bite Range," 148.
+
+  Frozen ocean, 200, 215;
+    depots cannot be laid out on, 234, 244;
+    difficulty of travelling over, 242;
+    movements of, 242.
+    (_See_ Palaeocrystic Sea, Sledgings.)
+
+  Fulmar petrels, 361.
+
+
+  Gales of wind in the Atlantic, 17, 18;
+    in Smith Sound, 59;
+    in Robeson Channel, 119;
+    at Floe Berg Beach, 124;
+    furious gale during autumn travelling, 133, 134;
+    in winter quarters, 205, 206;
+    while sledging, 282, 283, 285, 296, 297;
+    on the voyage home, 366, 367.
+
+  Geese. (_See_ Brent.)
+
+  Geology, lecture on, by Captain Feilden, 169.
+
+  Geological collections, 31, 102, 116, 350.
+    (_See_ Fossils.)
+
+  Geological formation, 64, 67, 68;
+    physical aspect of the coast lines, 99.
+
+  Ger-falcon, 362.
+
+  Giffard, Lieut. R.N., H.M.S. "Alert," magnetic observer, 154;
+    in charge of the printing, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, 215, 216;
+    lecture on magnetism by, 169;
+    parts taken by, in theatricals, 214.
+
+  Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, musicians on board ship of, 7.
+
+  Glaciers: of Jacobshavn, 32;
+    of the Waigat, 36;
+    of Omenak fiord, 38;
+    near Cape York, Petowik, 48;
+    Crystal Palace, 50;
+    my brother John's (of Kane), 52;
+    twin glaciers, 60, 61;
+    of Grinnell Land, 64, 73, 83;
+    in Bessels Bay, 99;
+    Tyndall, 359.
+
+  Glaucous gulls, 50.
+
+  Godhavn, arrival at, 26;
+    lovely weather at, 33;
+    hospitality of the people, 33, 363, 364.
+
+  Godthaab, expedition off, 24.
+
+  Good, Joseph, petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 168.
+
+  Gore, Wm., stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 216.
+
+  Grampus, 21.
+
+  Grand palaeocrystic chorus, 216.
+
+  Greenland, streams of ice, sweep down east coast of, 23;
+    coast of, 25;
+    natives on east coast, 69;
+    insularity of, argument from tides, 92;
+    distant view from Floe-berg Beach, 128;
+    exploration of northern coast, 242, 346.
+
+  "Greenwich," observatory at winter quarters so called, 152.
+
+  Grinnell Land, description of, 67, 72;
+    coast line, 94.
+
+  Gulls, 50, 101, 332, 360.
+
+  Guy Fawkes' day celebrated, 179.
+
+
+  Hair frozen into solid masses, 209;
+    effect of sledge travelling on colour of, 334.
+
+  Hakluyt Island, 50.
+
+  Hall Basin, 100, 101.
+
+  Haloes, 200.
+
+  Hannah Island, ships anchored inside, 100;
+    visit to, 101.
+
+  Hans Egede, 24.
+
+  Hans Hendrik, Eskimo engaged at Proven, 39;
+    endeavour to engage his brother-in-law, 48;
+    seal shot by, 354.
+
+  Hares, traces of, 60, 107;
+    at "Alert's" winter quarters, 211;
+    traces of, on the Polar Sea, 296, 314;
+    left by Captain Nares for N. division, 321;
+    shot, going south, 345, 351.
+
+  Harmonium, obtained from the "Valorous," at church, 187.
+
+  Hartstene Bay, arrival at, 51.
+
+  Hawks, Cape, 83.
+
+  Hayes, Dr., 51, 52, 53, 72, 73, 85, 99, 360.
+
+  Hayes, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69;
+    ascent of, 90.
+
+  Hayes Sound, 60;
+    tides in, 62;
+    intended exploration, 330.
+
+  Henry Island of Hayes, not an island, 64.
+
+  "Hercules," H.M. sledge, Lieut. W. H. May, R.N., 137, 217.
+
+  Hilgard, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69.
+
+  Hoskins, Commodore A. H., sledging flagstaff presented by, 307.
+
+  Housing for winter quarters, 154, 155, 156.
+
+  Hudson's Bay Company's Taboggans, suitable in soft snow, 281.
+
+  Hummocks, difficulty of marching over, on the Polar Sea, 278, 279, 281,
+      284, 301;
+    discoloured by mud, 301;
+    great barrier of, 303;
+    great size, 304, 305;
+    different colours of, 316.
+
+  Hunt, Wm., ward-room cook, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 214.
+
+  Hydrostatics, lecture on, by Lieut. May, 169.
+
+
+  Ice, first seen, 22;
+    stream of, near Cape Farewell, 23;
+    the middle pack, 44, 45;
+    dangers, 65, 66;
+    occupations when detained by, 66;
+    ships stopped by, 57, 65, 73, 82, 90, 95, 103, 110, 113, 121, 344;
+    amusements on the, 77;
+    dock cut in the, 86;
+    great height of, 89;
+    increasing thickness, 96;
+    extending across Hall Basin, 100;
+    pressure on Cape Frederick VII., 114;
+    of the Polar Ocean, 127, 147, 200;
+    the dangerous state of the, in autumn travelling, 141;
+    movement of, during winter, 184;
+    character of, in travelling over the Polar Ocean, 284, 291, 300;
+    symptoms of disruption, 315, 320;
+    state of, on the voyage southward, 344.
+    (_See_ Palaeocrystic, Blasting, Floe-bergs, Hummocks.)
+
+  Ice navigation, most important maxim in, 45;
+    uncertainty of, 57, 64;
+    qualities required for, 82.
+
+  Icebergs first sighted, 22;
+    constantly seen, 23;
+    in Disco Bay, 32, 34;
+    danger from, in the Waigat, 38;
+    indicate shoal water, 60;
+    danger from, off Albert Head, 65;
+    ships endangered by, 91;
+    number decreasing, 96;
+    innumerable, 359.
+
+  Independence, Cape, of Kane, 98.
+
+  Insects collected, 351.
+
+  Isabella, Cape, 356, 357;
+    Captain Markham lands at, 56, 57, 95;
+    letters at, 358.
+
+  Itivdliarsuk glacier, 36.
+
+  Ivory gull, 46, 50, 101.
+
+
+  Jacobshavn, glacier of, 32.
+
+  John Barrow, Cape, 93.
+
+  Jolliffe, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," in N. division sledge
+      party, holds out to the end, 326 (_n._).
+
+  Joseph Henry, Cape, 127;
+    Aldrich starts for, in the autumn, 136;
+    depot near, 147;
+    dog "Sallie" lost at, 190;
+    arrival of sledges at, 263;
+    floes off, 282;
+    encamped abreast of, 285;
+    description of, 285;
+    northern division of sledges reaches, 321;
+    last seen, 343.
+
+
+  Kane, Dr., his open polar sea, 72, 98, 360.
+
+  Kardluk Point, in the Waigat, 36.
+
+  Kayak, difficulty of using, 30;
+    adventure of Mr. Wootton, 30;
+    Eskimo pilot in, 43.
+
+  Kennedy Channel crossed, 103;
+    musk-oxen on east side of, 103.
+
+  "Kew," magnetic observatory at winter quarters so called, 154.
+
+  Kew Observatory, thermometer tested at, 223.
+
+  King ducks, 50, 332.
+
+  Knapsacks, sledging, contents, 235, 236.
+
+  Knots, seen and secured at Distant Cape, 110.
+
+
+  Lady Franklin Inlet, 103, 111.
+
+  Lafayette Bay (of Kane), 98, 99.
+
+  Lancaster Sound, geology, 67;
+    remains of Eskimo on shores of, 68;
+    "Alert" off mouth of, 360.
+
+  Lemmings, traces of, 107;
+    description, 115, 116;
+    eaten by "Nellie," 212;
+    traces away from the land, 278.
+
+  Letters at Cape Isabella, 358;
+    at Godhavn, 363;
+    at Littleton Island, 358, 362.
+
+  Lieber, Cape, 102.
+
+  Lievely, 26.
+    (_See_ Godhavn.)
+
+  Life-boat Cove, visit to, 53.
+
+  Light, lecture on, by Lieut. Parr, R.N., 169;
+    return of, 207, 225.
+
+  Lime-juice, regular daily issue of, 16;
+    impossibility of using, while in a frozen state, away sledging, 238;
+    taken on the sledges by Commander Markham and Lieut. Parr, 238;
+    served out to sledge crew by Commander Markham, 305;
+    useless unless the whole volume is thawed, 305;
+    its use in the treatment of scurvy, 329;
+    used on all sledge journeys when its use was possible, 330.
+
+  Lincoln Bay, 115;
+    coast between, and Cape Union, 121;
+    depot, 117, 248.
+
+  _Little Vulgar Boy_, play acted by the officers, 214.
+
+  Littleton Island, visit of Captain Nares and Commander Markham to, 53,
+      55;
+    not visited, going south, 358;
+    mail at, 358, 362.
+
+  Looms (_see_ Birds), 40, 41.
+
+  Loom soup, 40.
+
+  Louis Napoleon, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
+    passed by the ships, 90.
+
+  Lyngenmarkfjeld, in Disco, ascent of, 31.
+
+
+  M'Clintock, Admiral Sir Leopold, sledge of, the best, 281;
+    superintends outfit of expedition, 2;
+    his detention in the Melville Bay pack, 44;
+    sledge equipments superintended by, 231;
+    on the absurdity of taking frozen lime-juice on sledges, 238;
+    tea-leaves recommended by, 316.
+
+  Magnetic observations, 31;
+    while sledging, 73, 180, 305;
+    snow observatory for, 152, 153, 209.
+
+  Magnetism, lecture on, by Lieutenant Giffard, R.N., 169.
+
+  "Marco Polo," H.M. sledge, 137, 217, 259.
+
+  Marine shells found above sea-level, 116.
+
+  Markham, Commander Albert H., R.N., visit to Littleton Island, 53;
+    to Cape Isabella, 56;
+    to Hannah Island, 101;
+    to Distant Cape, 110;
+    starts on an autumn reconnaissance, 128;
+    starts on second autumn sledge journey, 133;
+    on main autumn sledge journey, 137, 144;
+    in charge of magnetic observations, 154;
+    lecture on astronomy, 169;
+    parts taken by, 174, 214;
+    followed by a wolf, 228;
+    takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
+    in command of the northern division of sledges, 242, 311;
+    attains the most northern point ever reached by man, 309, 311;
+    resolves to abandon large boat, 288, 289;
+    serves out lime-juice, 305.
+
+  Markham, Clements, on Eskimo wanderings, 68.
+    (_See_ Clements Markham.)
+
+  "Markham Hall," storehouse at winter quarters, 152;
+    demolition of, 210.
+
+  Maskell, William, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 216;
+    parts taken by, 174;
+    sledge crew, N. division, holds out to the end, 317, 318 (_n._).
+
+  May, Lieutenant W. H., R.N., starts on autumn travelling, 137;
+    severely frost-bitten, 147;
+    suffers amputation, 148;
+    astronomical observer, 152;
+    his lecture on hydrostatics, 169;
+    manager of the theatre, 214;
+    glee sung by, 216;
+    sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
+    comes to the rescue of the northern division, 325;
+    goes to succour Aldrich's party, 331, 332.
+
+  Medical staff, their tests of the physical capacity of the officers and
+      men, 15;
+    unremitting care of the sick, 333.
+
+  Medical inspections, 187, 204, 258, 326, 337.
+
+  Medical stores for sledges, 238 (_n._);
+    weight, 233.
+
+  Medical instructions to commanders of sledges, 238.
+
+  Melville Bay, 18, 44;
+    passage through, 44;
+    bear hunt in, 46.
+
+  Melville Island, remains of Eskimo at, 69;
+    musk-oxen at, 106.
+
+  Men of the expedition, selection of, 4;
+    tests of physical capacity, 15;
+    regular daily issue of lime-juice to, 16;
+    always reliable in an emergency, 125;
+    sufferings and excellent conduct in autumn travelling, 134, 145;
+    their good humour and wit, 146;
+    frost-bites and amputations, 148;
+    clothing during winter, 159, 160;
+    school for, in winter, 166, 167, 213;
+    theatricals, 171, 173;
+    Christmas cheer, 195;
+    fondness for dancing, 195, 197, 204;
+    excellent health, 204;
+    paleness on return of sun, 211;
+    heroic conduct while sledging, 277, 286, 287, 291, 302, 310, 311,
+      313, 316, 352.
+
+  Meteor, brilliant, seen at winter quarters, 201.
+
+  Meteorites at Ovifak, 31.
+
+  Meteorological observations, 162, 180, 183, 223.
+
+  Middle pack, Captain Nares's resolve to take the, 44.
+
+  Miocene Period, coal of, discovered, 347.
+
+  Mollies, 361.
+
+  Moon, 181.
+    (_See_ Paraselenae.)
+
+  Moravian missionaries, 24.
+
+  Morton, Cape, 100, 102;
+    depot of, 100.
+
+  Morton, Mr., his "open polar sea," 93;
+    description of Cape Constitution, accurate, 98;
+    unable to ascend cliff, 98.
+
+  Mosquitoes, plague in Greenland, 32.
+
+  Moss, Dr., surgeon, H.M.S. "Alert," reading by, 168;
+    lecture on mock moons under the microscope, 169;
+    makes a balloon on Guy Fawkes' day, 180;
+    paints scenery for theatre, 171;
+    succours the northern division, 326;
+    sketch for bill of fare by, 335;
+    paints the boats, 245.
+
+  Murchison Sound, 50.
+
+  Musical instruments, 7.
+    (_See_ Harmonium, Piano.)
+
+  Musicians in the ships of Sir H. Gilbert and John Davis, 7, 8.
+
+  Musk-oxen, traces of, 60, 61;
+    hunting, 104;
+    range of, 106;
+    traces in Discovery Harbour, 107;
+    beef presented by "Alert" to "Discovery," 108;
+    hunt in Shift-Rudder Bay, 113;
+    quantity of meat from, 186, 204;
+    meat nearly stolen by dogs, 207;
+    in the summer, 338.
+
+  Mustard and cress grown in the "Alert," 205, 211, 345.
+
+
+  Nares, Captain George S., R.N., resolves to take the middle pack, 44;
+    visits Life-boat Cove and Littleton Island, 53;
+    constant vigilance, 66;
+    visits Hannah Isle, 101;
+    ascends hill above Cape Morton, 102;
+    selects winter quarters for "Discovery," 107;
+    observes opening in the pack, 114;
+    catches a lemming, 115;
+    desirous of finding a more sheltered spot for winter quarters, 128,
+      135;
+    his account of sledge travelling, 140;
+    lecture on astronomy, 169;
+    gives name to the Palaeocrystic Sea, 200;
+    excellent health and spirits of those under his command at the
+      commencement of the New Year, 204;
+    lecture on sledging experiences, 215;
+    arrangement for opening communication with "Discovery," 246;
+    unjust attack upon, regarding lime-juice, 237;
+    absurdity of the charge against him, 238;
+    his Union Jack taken with northern division, 258;
+    at Cape Joseph Henry Depot, 321;
+    leaves hares for northern division, 321;
+    comes to the relief of the northern division, 325, 327;
+    decision to return home, 337, 346;
+    anxiety for safety of Beaumont, 349;
+    accepts offer of coal at Egedesminde, 363;
+    lands at Valentia, 367;
+    satisfaction of the Admiralty with his conduct of the Expedition, 368.
+
+  Narwhal hunting, 59.
+
+  Naturalist, zeal in a gale of wind, 19;
+    visit to Ovifak, 31;
+    finds Eskimo remains at Cape Beechey, 69;
+    ascends hill in Bessels Bay, 101;
+    at distant Cape, 110.
+    (_See_ Feilden, Captain.)
+
+  "Nellie," Commander Markham's black retriever, coveted by Eskimos at
+      Proven, 39;
+    dislike of Eskimo dogs, 78;
+    surprise at the tabogganing, 188;
+    stood the cold well, 188, 189;
+    adventure with, in the unifilar house, 209, 210;
+    eats the lemmings, 212;
+    followed by a wolf, 228.
+
+  Nelson, Lord, an old Arctic officer, 179.
+
+  New Year's day, 202, 203, 204.
+
+  Nip, preparations for, 65, 71, 83;
+    off Cape M'Clintock, 94;
+    south of Cape Beechey, 348.
+    (_See_ Ice.)
+
+  Norman-Lockyer Island, Eskimo remains on, 69, 74;
+    visited, 73.
+
+  North extreme, camp, 307, 308;
+    farthest point ever reached, 309, 311.
+
+  "North Water," of Baffin Bay, 47;
+    of Smith Sound, 72, 97.
+
+  Northumberland Island, 50.
+
+  Norton Shaw Cape, passed by the ships, 94.
+
+
+  Observations, scientific, in winter quarters, 180;
+    difficulties, 180;
+    while sledging, 305;
+    at farthest northern point, 307, 310.
+    (_See_ Magnetic, Meteorological, Astronomical.)
+
+  Observatories, wooden, for transit instrument, 152;
+    magnetic, 154;
+    dismantling of, 227.
+
+  Officers, selection, 4;
+    tests of physical capacity, 15;
+    amusements, 167;
+    lectures by, 169;
+    theatricals, 169, 173;
+    scientific observations, 180;
+    birthdays celebrated, 184;
+    Christmas, bill of fare for, 196;
+    approval of decision of Captain Nares to return, 337.
+    (_See_ under names.)
+
+  Omenak fiord, discharging glaciers in, 38.
+
+  Orchestra, Royal Arctic Theatre, 171.
+
+  Osborn, Rear-Admiral Sherard, C.B., dedication to, v.;
+    on Eskimo wanderings, 68.
+
+  Ovifak, visit of naturalist to, 31.
+
+
+  Pack. (_See_ Ice.)
+
+  Palaeocrystic Sea, name given, 200, 234.
+    (_See_ Frozen Ocean.)
+
+  Palaeocrystic floes in Robeson Channel, 92, 114, 118.
+
+  Palaeocrystic grand chorus, 216;
+    sung at the most northern position ever reached by man, 310.
+
+  "Pandora" brings letters to Cape Isabella, 358;
+    at Godhavn, 363;
+    sighted in the Atlantic, 366.
+
+  Paraselenae, 181, 200.
+
+  Parr, Lieut. A. C. C., R.N., ascends the hill above Bessels Bay, 101;
+    starts on autumn travelling, 133, 137, 144;
+    sledge goes through the ice, 144;
+    in charge of astronomical observatory, 152;
+    lecture on light by, 169;
+    takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
+    an indefatigable road-maker, 286;
+    sent to the ship for help, 322, 325.
+
+  Parry, Sir Edward, his farthest northern point passed, 150;
+    his sense of the importance of exercising and improving the minds of
+      the men in winter quarters, 163, 166;
+    attempt to reach the pole, 243 (_n._).
+
+  Parry Islands, Eskimo remains on shores of, 68.
+
+  Payer Harbour, 58.
+
+  Pearce, Alfred, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216;
+    severely frost-bitten, 286;
+    attacked by scurvy, 289.
+
+  Pemmican, 237, 270.
+
+  Pendulum Islands, Eskimos met with near, 69.
+
+  Petermann fiord, 100;
+    fine view of, 103.
+
+  Petersen, Danish dog-driver, autumn travelling, 128, 129;
+    starts for "Discovery," 248;
+    frost-bitten, 248;
+    efforts to save his life, 248 to 254;
+    brought back to the ship, 254;
+    death of, 255, 321.
+
+  Petowick glacier, 48.
+
+  Photographing at Godhavn, 31.
+
+  Pinkey and Collins' patent topsails, 3.
+
+  Plants, 31, 57, 60, 74, 107.
+    (_See_ Vegetation.)
+
+  Plays. (_See_ Theatricals.)
+
+  Play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214.
+
+  Plymouth, visit from Commander-in-Chief, 11.
+
+  Polar Ocean, 122, 128, 215, 234, 242;
+    Parry's attempt to sledge over, 243 (_n._);
+    march of the northern division over, 276, 311 (_see_ Hummocks), 285,
+      301;
+    young ice, 296.
+
+  Polaris Bay, 100;
+    state of lime-juice found in, 305;
+    sledge-crew recruiting at, 346, 349.
+
+  "Polaris," visit to her second winter quarters, 53, 54;
+    her cruise, 72;
+    Dr. Bessels of, 92, 99;
+    land seen from, 101;
+    musk-ox shot by crew of, 106;
+    Eskimo kind to crew of, 360.
+
+  Polarization of light, observations, 180.
+
+  "Poppie," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Giffard, 217, 259.
+
+  Poppies, 57, 74.
+
+  Popular entertainments in winter quarters, 168, 169;
+    programmes, 175, 176.
+
+  Portsmouth Dockyard, ships fitting out at, 1;
+    harbour, departure of expedition from, 9, 10;
+    return to, 368.
+
+  Potentillas, 340.
+
+  Prayers, 187.
+    (_See_ Divine service.)
+
+  Presents to the expedition, 6, 7, 193, 194.
+
+  President Land has no existence, 101.
+
+  Prince Patrick Island, heavy pack on west coast of, 200.
+
+  Prince Regent Inlet, formation of cliffs, 64, 67.
+
+  Printing office in winter quarters, 164, 165;
+    prospectus, 164;
+    bills of fare, 185.
+
+  Prologue, Royal Arctic Theatre, 172, 173.
+
+  Protococcus nivalis, 48.
+
+  Proven, arrival at, 38;
+    survey of, 39.
+
+  Provisions for sledging, weight, 233;
+    scale, 237.
+
+  Ptarmigan, 225.
+
+  Pullen, Rev. W. H., chaplain, H.M.S. "Alert," glees by, 216;
+    lecture on Arctic plants, 169;
+    author of the prologue, 171, 172, 176;
+    leads the choir, 187;
+    Christmas bill of fare by, 196;
+    lines on the New Year by, 202;
+    a burlesque operetta written by, 214;
+    grand chorus composed by, 216;
+    service on departure of sledges, 258, 259;
+    lines welcoming return of sledges by, 336.
+
+
+  Queenstown, rendezvous at, 367.
+
+
+  Radmore, John, chief carpenter's mate, H.M.S. "Alert," sledge crew in
+      northern division, holds out against scurvy, 318;
+    to the last, 326 (_n._).
+
+  Radmore Harbour, Eskimo's remains at, 69.
+
+  Rainbow, 325.
+
+  Rawlings, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," captain of sledge,
+      northern division, attacked by scurvy, 306.
+
+  Rawlings Bay, 352.
+
+  Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, R.N., joins the "Alert" from the "Discovery,"
+      108;
+    visits Distant Cape, 110;
+    glees by, 169;
+    parts taken in theatricals by, 174, 214;
+    skill in tabogganing, 187;
+    visit to snow hut built by, 212;
+    accompanies Egerton on journey to "Discovery," 247;
+    his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
+    arrives from "Discovery," 346.
+
+  Rawson Cape, 219, 343.
+
+  Records left at Cape Isabella, 57;
+    in cairn on Hannah Island, 101;
+    at extreme northern point, 312;
+    at Cairn Point (winter quarters), 341.
+
+  Reindeer, Port Foulke, 52;
+    traces, 60;
+    scarce near Egedesminde, 365.
+
+  Retrospect on New Year's day, 197.
+
+  Reward for crossing 83rd parallel, 292 (_n._).
+
+  Richardson Bay, 99.
+
+  Right whales, 21.
+
+  Rink, Dr., on the Eskimo, 33.
+
+  Ritenbenk, expedition at, 34.
+
+  Road-making on the ice, 273, 275, 277, 279, 286, 292, 294.
+
+  Robeson Channel, 69;
+    view of, 110;
+    position on American chart not to be recognized, 115;
+    palaeocrystic floes of, 118;
+    examination of fiords, 242.
+
+  Rorqual whale, 21.
+
+  Ross, Sir John, Arctic highlanders of, 48;
+    red snow, 48.
+
+  Rotges, or little auks, 46, 50, 360.
+
+  Royal Arctic Theatre, 169, 170;
+    prologue, 172;
+    plays, 173, 214.
+
+  Rudder, arrangement for unshipping, 3;
+    head damaged, 67;
+    unshipped for a nip, 83;
+    seriously injured, 113;
+    shifted, 113;
+    frequent necessity for unshipping, 344;
+    head badly wrenched, 344, 351.
+
+
+  Sabine, Cape, 55, 57, 59;
+    Eskimo remains on, 69;
+    passed, going south, 356.
+
+  Sails for sledges, 231 (_n._).
+
+  "Sallie" suspected of robbing Rawson's depot, 213.
+    (_See_ Dogs.)
+
+  Salt beef, character of, 154.
+
+  "Sanderson, his hope," shooting looms at, 40.
+
+  Sanitary condition of the men in winter quarters, 187.
+
+  Saxifrage, 57, 74, 340.
+
+  Scenery of Greenland, 24;
+    from Disco, 31;
+    in Disco Bay, 35;
+    in the Waigat, 36;
+    near Cape York, 48, 50;
+    of the glaciers, 60;
+    off Cape Hawks, 83;
+    at winter quarters, 126;
+    at the extreme northern point, 310, 311.
+
+  School in winter quarters, 165, 166;
+    last assemblage of, 213.
+
+  Scientific observations in winter quarters, 180.
+
+  Scoresby on the size of the rorqual, 21.
+
+  Scoresby Bay, 94.
+
+  Scurvy, 237;
+    premonitory symptoms, 284, 285;
+    dread of, 299;
+    increasing symptoms, 303, 304, 305, 313;
+    decrease of appetite, 314;
+    extreme weakness, 317;
+    outbreak on board the "Alert," 321;
+    true causes of the outbreak, 329, 330;
+    cure of patients, 333, 339, 345;
+    patients convalescent, 365;
+    outbreak in sledge crews of "Discovery," 346.
+
+  Seals basking on the ice, 24, 45;
+    shot by Hans, 354.
+
+  Selection of officers and men for Arctic service, 4.
+
+  Self, James, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216.
+
+  Shells, marine, found above sea-level, 116.
+
+  Shift-Rudder Bay, 114.
+
+  Shirley, John, stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 168;
+    attacked by scurvy, 282;
+    on the sledge, 284.
+
+  Shooting parties in summer, 338 to 340.
+
+  Sick. (_See_ Scurvy.)
+
+  Simpson, Thos., H.M.S. "Alert," in sledge crew, northern division,
+      attacked by scurvy, 306.
+
+  Skating, 77, 110.
+
+  Sky, beauty of, 83.
+    (_See_ Meteor, Sun.)
+
+  Sledges, description of, 231 (_n._);
+    sails for, 231 (_n._);
+    weight, 233;
+    boats on, 242 (_n._);
+    required for northern division, 244;
+    dog sledge sent to "Discovery," 247;
+    departure of sledges in the spring, 257, 258;
+    sledge standards, 258;
+    art of packing, 277;
+    high-runner sledges the best, 281;
+    (_See_ Dogs, Marco Polo, Hercules, Victoria, Bloodhound, Bulldog,
+      Alexandra, Challenger, Poppie, Clements Markham.)
+
+  Sledge crews, exercise of, 227.
+
+  Sledging, first lessons in 58;
+    with dogs, 79, 80, 81, 128;
+    first experiences, 129;
+    severe work, 133;
+    details of, 137;
+    shore-going notions of, 138;
+    realities, 139;
+    lecture on, by Captain Nares, 215;
+    grand palaeocrystic chorus, 216;
+    preparations for, during the winter, 230;
+    equipments superintended by Sir Leopold M'Clintock, 231;
+    weights, 233;
+    auxiliaries and depots, 234;
+    tents, 235;
+    cooking apparatus, 235;
+    contents of knapsack and storebag, 237;
+    scale of provisions, 237;
+    medical stores, 238 (_n._);
+    clothing, 239, 240;
+    programme of sledding, operations, 241;
+    the first encampment, 260;
+    intense cold, 259, 262;
+    arrival at autumn depot, 263;
+    daily routine, 264 to 270;
+    road-making, 273, 275, 276;
+    increasing difficulties, 304;
+    method of advancing, 295, 304, 306, 313;
+    most northern encampment, 307;
+    extreme northern point, 309 to 311;
+    return journey of northern division begun, 312;
+    northern division reaches land, 321;
+    return of northern division, 327;
+    western division, 331, 332;
+    eastern division, 350.
+    (_See_ Autumn, Hummocks, Temperature, Foot-gear, Cook.)
+
+  Sleeping-bags, 139, 235, 240;
+    weight of, 233;
+    frozen hard, 280, 283, 287.
+
+  Smith, Mr. Krarup, Inspector of North Greenland, his hospitality, 26,
+      29, 363.
+
+  Smith Sound, 47, 49, 69.
+
+  Snow, crimson, 48;
+    heavy falls in Smith Sound, 71, 73, 95;
+    in Robeson Channel, 111, 119, 121;
+    heavy falls during autumn travelling, 147;
+    buildings with, 152, 153, 154;
+    temperature at different depths, 162;
+    heavy drifts during winter, 205;
+    drifts while sledge travelling, 261, 287, 306.
+
+  Snow blindness, precautions against, 240;
+    use of goggles, 286, 303.
+
+  Snow bunting seen by sledge crews, 319.
+
+  Snow hut built by Rawson, 212.
+
+  Sorrel, 345.
+
+  Soundings at extreme northern point, 308, 309.
+
+  Southsea Common, farewell to the expedition from, 9, 10.
+
+  Specific gravity observations, 180.
+
+  Spectrum analysis observations, 180.
+
+  Standards for sledges, 258.
+
+  Stanton, Cape, in sight, 103.
+
+  Steam, lecture on by Mr. Wootton, 169.
+
+  Stone, Geo., of the "Discovery," serving on board the "Alert," songs
+      by, 174.
+
+  Store-bag, sledging contents, 237.
+
+  Stoves, 158.
+
+  Stuckberry, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by,
+      173, 216.
+
+  Summer, 337, 339.
+
+  Sumner, Cape, in sight, 103.
+
+  Sun, sets at midnight, 127;
+    final disappearance, 141;
+    last view of, 148, 150;
+    date of final departure, 151, 178;
+    longing for the return of, 207;
+    return of, 219, 220, 221, 222;
+    effect of, on the ice, 207, 313.
+
+  Sylvester heating apparatus not supplied, 158.
+
+  Symons, Robert, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," printer, 164 (_n._), 169, 175,
+      216;
+    songs by, 214.
+
+
+  Tabogganing, 187.
+
+  Taboggans, Hudson's Bay Company's sledges, suitable for soft snow, 281.
+
+  Temperature, observations for, 162;
+    variations during winter, 183;
+    extreme cold, 223, 224;
+    while sledging, 259, 262, 278, 283, 286, 290, 294, 295, 302, 313,
+      314, 320.
+
+  Tents, 139;
+    weight, 233;
+    description of, 235, 260.
+
+  Terns, 110, 332.
+
+  Tests of physical capacity, 15.
+
+  Theatricals, dresses, 171;
+    orchestra, 171;
+    prologue, 172;
+    play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214;
+    plays, 173, 214.
+
+  Thermometers tested, 224.
+
+  Thermometrical observations, 162, 223.
+    (_See_ Temperature.)
+
+  "Thursday pops," 168, 169, 175, 176, 215.
+
+  Tidal observations at Twin Glacier Bay, 62;
+    in winter quarters, 161, 180.
+
+  Tides, meeting of, at Cape Fraser, 92;
+    in Polar Sea, 304, 309.
+
+  "Tigress," at Life-boat Cove, 53.
+
+  Torske bank, fishing on, 25.
+
+  Trafalgar day celebrated, 179.
+
+  Turnstones, 360.
+
+  Twin Glacier Bay, 61.
+
+  Tyndall Glacier, 359.
+
+
+  "Unies." (_See_ Narwhals.)
+
+  Unifilar House, 209.
+
+  Union, Cape, 101, 103, 118;
+    rounded, 121, 122;
+    pressure on, 125, 343.
+
+  Union Jack of Captain Nares, taken with the northern division, 258;
+    planted at the most northern point, 309.
+
+  Upernivik, 41, 42, 43, 358.
+
+
+  Valentia, "Alert" at, 367.
+
+  "Valorous," H.M.S., to take out stores to Disco, 6;
+    joins the Arctic ships, 11;
+    to make the best of her way to Disco, 14;
+    at Disco, 28;
+    kindness of captain and officers, 33;
+    farewell to, 35;
+    lost sight of, 37;
+    jolly-boat landed at Dobbin Bay, 84;
+    harmonium obtained from, 187.
+
+  Vegetation at Godhavn, 31;
+    at Cape Isabella, 57;
+    at Twin Glacier Bay, 60;
+    at Norman Lockyer Island, 74;
+    in Discovery Harbour, 107;
+    lecture on Arctic plants by Mr. Pullen, 169;
+    of the Arctic summer, 340.
+
+  Ventilation during winter, 158;
+    drip, 182.
+
+  "Victoria," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Parr, R.N., 137, 217, 259;
+    goes through the ice, 144.
+
+  Victoria Head, 67.
+
+  Von Buch, Cape, 93.
+
+
+  Waigat, scenery of, 36;
+    danger from fogs and icebergs, 37;
+    steam out of, 38.
+
+  Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.
+
+  Wales, Prince of, Mountains, 50.
+
+  Walrus seen on the ice, 45, 74;
+    hunts, 74, 75, 76.
+
+  Walter Bathurst Cape, 360.
+
+  Warming apparatus not supplied, 157.
+
+  Warming arrangements during winter, 157, 158.
+
+  Washington Irving Island, ancient cairns on, 85.
+
+  Weights for sledging, 232;
+    to be dragged by each man, 233;
+    in Parry's expedition, 243 (_n._).
+
+  Welcome of sledge travellers to ship, 335, 336;
+    of the expedition, on return to England, 368.
+
+  Whales, 20, 21. (_See_ Cetaceans.)
+
+  Whale Sound, 49, 359.
+
+  White, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," lecture on history by, 169;
+    part taken by, at the theatricals, 174;
+    improvement of sledge-cooking apparatus by, 236.
+
+  Willow, 74.
+
+  Wind. (_See_ Gales.)
+
+  Winter, approach of, 126.
+
+  Winter quarters, precarious nature of at Floe-berg Beach, 126, 132;
+    preparations for, 151 to 254;
+    routine, 160.
+    (_See_ Ventilation, Warming, Housing, Clothing, Fire-hole, Amusements.)
+
+  Wolf, appearance of a, 228, 229.
+
+  Wolves, traces of, 60, 107, 321;
+    alarm of, 199.
+
+  Woman Islands, 41.
+
+  Wood, Sergeant, H.M.S., "Alert," recitation and song by, 216.
+
+  Woolley, Wm., H.M.S., "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.
+
+  "Woolwich," snow powder storehouse at winter quarters so called, 154;
+    dismantling of, 227.
+
+  Wootton, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," adventure in a kayak, 30;
+    his lecture on steam, 169, 175;
+    glee sung by, 216.
+
+
+  York, Cape, 47, 49.
+
+  Young, Sir Allen, gratitude to, for bringing out letters, 358, 362.
+
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham
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