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diff --git a/43606.txt b/43606.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 529a328..0000000 --- a/43606.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8671 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sport in Abyssinia, by Dermot Mayo - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Sport in Abyssinia - The Mareb and Tackazzee - -Author: Dermot Mayo - -Release Date: August 31, 2013 [EBook #43606] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPORT IN ABYSSINIA *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal - signs=. - - On page 124, "Che va piano va sano" should perhaps be "Chi va piano - va sano". - - - - -SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. - - [Illustration: OUR PARTY. - Frontispiece.] - - - - - SPORT - IN - ABYSSINIA; - - OR, - - The Mareb and Tackazzee. - - BY - THE EARL OF MAYO, - LIEUTENANT, GRENADIER GUARDS. - - LONDON: - JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. - 1876. - - - - - DEDICATED - TO - D. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -I present this book to the Public simply as an account of what I did -and saw; and the impressions the different events and scenes made upon -my mind. - -I have written it from notes and my daily Journal. The stories that -are in it were told me, some by Natives, others by Europeans; either -over the camp fire, or to while away the tedium of a long march, or -the _ennui_ of life on board ship. - -These tales must be taken as they are written; they amused me much at -the time, and if they only interest my readers I shall be content. - -I hope to revisit Abyssinia, but under more favourable auspices; and -trust that better luck may attend me. - -I have spelt the names of places as they are _pronounced_, having had -them repeated over several times to me by our excellent interpreter, -Peter Brou. - - _Victoria Street. London. 1876._ - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - PAGE - - CAIRO -- THE KHEDIVE "AT HOME" -- THE PYRAMIDS -- PETROS, - OUR CONDUCTOR -- SUEZ -- OUR PROVISIONS -- THE START FROM - SUEZ -- ON BOARD THE DESSOOK -- SOUAKIM -- A USEFUL WEAPON - -- MASSOWAH -- NATIVE FISHERMEN -- PEARLS -- OUR FIRST - ENCAMPMENT -- ARTIFICIAL SHADE -- "MY BATTERY" -- "EN ROUTE" - -- ON CAMEL-BACK -- THE FIRST SHOT -- AND MISS -- A NEW - METHOD OF LOADING -- PICK-A-BACK -- THE RESULT -- ARREKEL - BEY -- WATER SUPPLY -- OUR PARTY DIVIDES -- A VULTURE TRAP - -- BAGGAGE TRAIN -- CONVICT LABOUR -- A TURKISH - DINNER-PARTY -- THE CORPS DE BALLET 1 - - CHAPTER II. - - OUR EQUIPMENT -- TENTS AND BEDS -- COMMISSARIAT -- THE - KITCHEN -- MULES, THEIR HABITS AND TREATMENT -- CAMELS -- UP - COUNTRY -- MY FIRST BAG -- SILVER CUPS -- A WILD BOAR -- - AILET -- OUR ESCORT -- THE FIRST OF THE JUNGLE -- SWEDISH - MISSIONARIES -- AN ABYSSINIAN "SPA" -- A HOT BATH -- THE - "RAINS" -- THRASHING THE TENTS 20 - - CHAPTER III. - - GENERAL KIRKHAM -- DIK-DIK -- AN ABYSSINIAN HOUSE -- A - SUCCESSFUL DODGE -- EGYPTIAN OUTPOSTS -- A PET SHEEP -- - SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE -- LOST IN A MIST -- A "NASTY CROPPER" - -- SAFE IN CAMP -- DIGGING FOR PIGS -- A LUCKY SHOT -- A - SHOWER BATH 37 - - CHAPTER IV. - - A STRANGE "GET-UP" -- AN UNLUCKY SHOT -- CRANES -- AN - INSOLENT "CHICKER" -- OUR COOLIES STRIKE -- FLORICAN -- - SERVANT HUNTING -- NIGHT MARCHING -- FIRST SIGHT OF THE - MAREB -- "LONG LIE" -- COPTIC CHURCH -- A PEAL OF STONE - BELLS -- HIGHWAY ROBBERY -- A CHASE -- DOMESTIC QUARREL -- - LUGGAGE DIFFICULTIES -- A MOONLIGHT RACE 55 - - CHAPTER V. - - A GENERAL BATH -- RELIGIOUS PROCESSION -- THE GAME OF GOUX - -- DINNER-PARTY IN A STABLE -- ETIQUETTE -- GRAM -- FRENCH - LEAVE -- HOSTILITIES -- A PARLEY AND RECONCILIATION -- - NATIVE BEER -- A WHIRLWIND -- CULTIVATION -- ROADS -- FINE - SCENERY -- A TALISMAN -- A FIANCEE -- CAPTURE OF A GUIDE -- - ROBBERS AND THEIR PUNISHMENT -- THE CROPS -- CAMP ON THE - MAREB -- TOMATOS -- LIONS -- A NARROW ESCAPE -- SPEAR - THROWING 75 - - CHAPTER VI. - - A WART-HOG -- "BRUNDO" BUTCHERING -- AN "ETON BLUE" BIRD -- - BABOONS -- DESERTED VILLAGE -- ROUGH WALKING -- THE - ABYSSINIAN ADAM AND EVE -- JEALOUSY -- THE PRIESTS -- SAVAGE - CUSTOMS -- TAMARISK COVER -- NATIVE SPORTSMEN -- DANCING AND - SINGING -- WANT OF A DOG -- NEWS OF A LION -- RED - POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS AND THEIR EFFECT -- "BORROWED PLUMES" - -- THE JUNGLE ON FIRE -- WE STEER WEST -- "BLACKMAIL" -- - SUMMARY JUSTICE 94 - - CHAPTER VII. - - A LONG MARCH -- A NATIVE GARDEN -- COOLIES AND THE WAY TO - TREAT THEM -- MARKETS -- A BATTLE-FIELD -- COOL SHADE -- - "THE FIRST POST" -- SHIELDS AND SPEARS -- JOHN -- POTATOES - -- SILVERSMITHS -- A NEW FRIEND -- COOLIE SQUABBLES -- AN - APPEAL -- DONKEY BUYING -- SHOE-MAKING -- A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW - OF OUR ROUTE -- SOURCES OF THE TACKAZZEE -- MARRIAGE - FESTIVITIES -- I TURN SURGEON -- A MUSICAL PARTY -- MY - REPUTATION AS A DOCTOR 114 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - DONKEY ROBBERIES -- REPRISALS -- A FRIEND IN NEED -- POSTMEN - -- APOLOGIES -- A THIEF SURPRISED -- IN SEARCH OF A MILLER - -- THE WAY TO GET WATER -- A SWIM -- ARRIVAL OF MY RIFLE -- - CUSTOM-HOUSE -- ELEPHANT-HUNTING -- HINTS ON COSTUME -- - FIRESIDE TALES -- HOW TO PRODUCE FIRE -- AN EPICURE -- - HARTEBEEST AND GIRAFFES -- JUNGLE FIRES 134 - - CHAPTER IX. - - THE FOREST -- THE TACKAZZEE AT LAST -- A FORD -- AN - UNHEALTHY CAMP -- HIPPOPOTAMI -- A RAFT -- ON THE ELEPHANT - TRACK -- IN SIGHT OF GAME -- A LION AND A MESS -- - BIVOUACKING -- BEGINNING OF MY ILLNESS -- GUINEA FOWL -- WE - TURN HOMEWARDS -- "THE BLUES" -- RAFT-BUILDING -- A CARAVAN - -- ELEPHANT AGAIN -- A BIG FISH! -- NEWSPAPERS -- CHANGE OF - QUARTERS -- THE GAME OF "GALANIFT" 152 - - CHAPTER X. - - OUR DAILY ROUTINE -- BAKING A JERKED KOODOO -- LOSS OF AN - ELEPHANT -- A SEPARATION -- MY ILLNESS INCREASES -- - STARVATION -- A GODSEND -- SAD PLIGHT -- FRESH SUPPLIES -- A - HARD MARCH -- NARROW ESCAPE -- AN EXCITING HUNT -- PRIMITIVE - BUTCHERY -- A CURIOUS SHOT -- CARAVAN -- EXCHANGE OF - CIVILITIES -- "CHURCH" -- CHANGE OF AIR -- ACCIDENT TO THE - KITCHEN -- STRANGE VISITORS -- A THUNDERSTORM 173 - - CHAPTER XI. - - AN INGENIOUS BED -- EN ROUTE FOR THE COAST -- A SAD PLIGHT - -- UNPLEASANT TRAVELLING -- FRIENDS -- FORCIBLE PERSUASION - -- AN AMUSING ENCOUNTER -- AN ADVENTURE -- I OPEN A BAZAAR - -- PRICES -- HOSPITALITY -- HAGGLING -- REINFORCEMENT -- - LETTERS FROM HOME -- A MISERABLE NIGHT -- FALSE RUMOURS -- I - SELL TWO DONKEYS -- "HARD UP" -- GEESE AND HORNBILLS -- - ILL-TIMED THEFT -- STRANGE QUARTERS -- TOOTH-BRUSHES 195 - - CHAPTER XII. - - SELF-HELP -- SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS -- LAID-UP AGAIN -- A - REUNION -- HOSPITALITY -- AN OLD FRIEND -- AN ALARM -- ORDER - OF BATTLE -- A FIELD DAY -- "KIND ENQUIRIES" -- OLIVES AND - OIL -- PURCHASE OF A CLUB -- CATTLE PLAGUE -- AN INJUDICIOUS - DINNER -- MY ILLNESS INCREASES -- I HAVE TO BE CARRIED -- - LUXURY OF A WASH -- I BUILD A HOUSE -- THE SEA -- - CIVILIZATION AGAIN 214 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - FRENCH FRIENDS -- ON BOARD -- COMPARATIVE COMFORT -- A QUEER - FISH -- A DINNER PARTY -- A CARGO OF GAZELLES -- ROUGH - WEATHER -- VOYAGE TO SUEZ -- AND ARRIVAL 243 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - OUR PARTY Frontispiece. - - A RACE FOR A SPEAR To face page 70 - - NARROW ESCAPE OF GOUBASEE " " 91 - - OUR CAMP AT MASSOWAH " " 118 - - A WILY BARIA " " 147 - - - - -SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - CAIRO -- THE KHEDIVE "AT HOME" -- THE PYRAMIDS -- PETROS, OUR - CONDUCTOR -- SUEZ -- OUR PROVISIONS -- THE START FROM SUEZ -- ON - BOARD THE DESSOOK -- SOUAKIM -- A USEFUL WEAPON -- MASSOWAH -- - NATIVE FISHERMEN -- PEARLS -- OUR FIRST ENCAMPMENT -- ARTIFICIAL - SHADE -- "MY BATTERY" -- "EN ROUTE" -- ON CAMEL-BACK -- THE FIRST - SHOT -- AND MISS -- A NEW METHOD OF LOADING -- PICK-A-BACK -- THE - RESULT -- ARREKEL BEY -- WATER SUPPLY -- OUR PARTY DIVIDES -- A - VULTURE TRAP -- BAGGAGE TRAIN -- CONVICT LABOUR -- A TURKISH - DINNER-PARTY -- THE CORPS DE BALLET. - - - "In youth's wild days, it cannot but be pleasant - This idle roaming, round and round the world." - GOETHE. - -Not to trouble the reader with an account of the route to India, via -Brindisi, I will commence the narrative of my adventures at Cairo, -where most of the party who were going to shoot in Abyssinia were -assembled. - -We had a very jolly time of it at Cairo, and amused ourselves in the -usual way, by riding donkeys through the bazaars and trying to win -money from the Greeks, who keep all the gambling-houses. Of course -most of the time was employed in making preparations for the journey -to, and for travelling in, Abyssinia. - -We all went and paid our respects to the Khedive, being introduced by -Her Majesty's Consul, Major-General Staunton. His Highness the Khedive -was very civil and courteous, and said he would give us letters to the -different Governors of the Egyptian Provinces through which we were -likely to pass. He also provided all of us with firmans. - -A day or two afterwards we received invitations to a _soiree -theatrale_, given at the Palace of Kasr-el-Nil. This lordly "palace" -is simply a large wooden structure on the banks of the Nile, close to -the great barracks in which most of the troops of Cairo are quartered. - -The entertainment was particularly dull, and the only thing that -enlivened us at all was the excessive crush of the company going up -the wooden stairs, which made the whole place shake. Just as we were -entering the room the floor creaked loudly, and the company parted as -if a shell had burst in the midst of them; I thought the whole place -was coming down. Luckily, there was no panic, or I do not know what -would have happened, as we were at the top of the house, having gone -up about six flights of stairs, and the room was full. There was an -elaborate supper afterwards, for which I did not stop. I was only too -glad during the first pause to leave so hot an entertainment. - -One Sunday afternoon we drove out to the Pyramids, and ate lunch under -some trees, sitting on one of those broken Egyptian wheels which are -used for raising water. Afterwards we went inside the Pyramids; it was -very warm work, and we were forced to buy quantities of antiquities, -which, I believe, are manufactured in Birmingham. - -I found I had to take off my boots in scrambling down a labyrinth of -narrow passages inside of the Pyramid to get to the King's Chamber, -for I had twice been thrown on my back through having nails in my -boots. - -After having spent ten days at Cairo, I resolved to start for Suez in -order to make arrangements, and to gain information about Abyssinia. -By great luck I met an Abyssinian merchant, quite a young fellow, in -the bazaar at Suez, who said he would go to Abyssinia as my servant, -and he turned out to be very useful, as he could speak Amharic, -Arabic, and Hindustanee, as well as English. Petros, such was his -name, followed me through Abyssinia, and nursed me with great care -when I fell very ill on my return to the coast. - -I arrived at Suez just before H., who was to go to Abyssinia with me; -he had come from Southampton by the P. and O. steamer, and I was -delighted to have arranged so nicely with him as to suit our mutual -convenience. - -I learnt that my provisions had all arrived safely by the P. and O., -but not my heavy guns nor ammunition. What had become of them I could -not make out, as Rigby, of St. James's Street, had most distinct -orders in writing to send them to Suez. It turned out afterwards that -the P. and O. Company, through carelessness, had sent the guns on to -Pointe de Galle; they arrived in Abyssinia the day before we started -for the Tackazzee, where the big game is to be found. H. and I were -hard at work for two days shifting the provisions from the big boxes -in which they had come out into smaller ones, in order that these -might be carried on camels and mules. I bought a few necessary -articles at the P. and O. stores, such as a large frying-pan, a common -kettle, etc., for rough camping work; most of the other things I had -purchased in London, and I would recommend all other travellers to do -the same. I bought all my provisions from the Army and Navy -Co-operative Stores, Victoria Street; and I take this opportunity of -stating that, not only were they so well packed that nothing was -broken, but also that during the very great heat and exceedingly dry -cold winds in Abyssinia not one thing failed, and every article of -the provisions came out as fresh as if I had sent for and got it that -day from the stores. The boxes in which the stores were packed I had -made from an army pattern; it is the one used in the infantry to carry -the carpenters' tools. - -A day or two after I had reached Suez, the rest of the party arrived -from Sheppard's Hotel, Cairo. The ship we had to go in to Massowah, -the seaport town of Abyssinia, was called the _Dessook_--a ship that -had been running from Alexandria to Constantinople. She possessed -plenty of accommodation, which is rather unusual for this line of -steamers. These vessels run every three weeks from Suez, taking and -bringing the Egyptian mails from and to Suez, Souakim, and Massowah. -It is an enterprise of the Khedive's, and is called the Posta Khedive -Company; scarcely, I should think, paying well, as the trade from all -ports of the Red Sea is very small. They also carry pilgrims during -the pilgrim season. - -We were a party of eleven on board the _Dessook_. These vessels make -no arrangements for providing passengers with food; so we formed a -"mess" of our own, with a president and a committee. Of course, we had -a great many cooks, as the party was large and we were going to -separate; seven to disembark at Souakim, and the remaining four at -Massowah. Nothing could have been merrier than our little mess. - -The only other passengers besides ourselves were some French Roman -Catholic priests with a French bishop, and a Frenchman belonging to a -house of business in Massowah. The bishop was very pleasant and -intelligent, and gave the rest of the party and myself a great deal of -useful information as to living and travelling in Abyssinia: he was -Bishop of Keren, in the Bogos country. - -In about three days from Suez we arrived at Souakim, which is built -upon an island. The houses are white square structures, with a minaret -dotted about here and there. I went on shore with H. in the evening, -and we walked about that part of the town which is on the mainland. -The inhabitants of Souakim are Arabs; the men are very handsome, -well-made, likely fellows, and they walk about hand-in-hand, twirling -little crooked sticks and dressed in white turbans and white clothes. - -I bought one of those crooked knives peculiar to Souakim with which -the young gentlemen of the place settle their little disputes. They -hold the knife dagger fashion, and hack away at each other till one of -the combatants faints from loss of blood. One could see, from the -shape of the knife, that it would be very hard to inflict a mortal -wound with such a weapon. - -Here seven of the party landed, including Captain B., Mr. Marcopoli, -and Mr. Russell. They were going up to the White Nile, by Berber, to -join Colonel Gordon, of the White Nile exploration. The other four -were going to Kassala, across the Desert, and thence down to the -Hamaram village mentioned by Sir Samuel Baker in his 'Nile Tributaries -of Abyssinia,' to shoot all kinds of big game. The ship only remained -two days at Souakim, and then sailed for Massowah. The rest of the -journey was a little dull, as the separation broke up this very cheery -party, and only four of us were now remaining. - -On the morning of the 29th December, 1874, H., Lord R., A., and myself -landed at Massowah, and here I begin my journal with an account of our -sport and adventures. - -_Dec. 29, 1874._--The first thing we did was to pay our respects to -the Governor. I presented the letter which had been procured for me -from the Minister of Foreign Affairs in Egypt, and, of course, we had -the usual accompaniment of coffee. Arrekel Bey, the Governor, was -exceedingly civil, and said he would do everything in his power to get -us mules, etc., for our journey to the interior. - -Massowah is built on an island, in the same way as Souakim; but there -are two long causeways joining it with the mainland, whereas at Souakim -one goes from the mainland to the town in boats--coarse-shaped things, -which are also used at Massowah, and which I was told are not made in -the country, but are brought to Jidda by large steamers from India. - -The boats, or rather rafts, that the people go out fishing in in the -harbour of Massowah are very primitive, being made of a few logs of -wood turned up at the ends. The paddler is always wet with the sea, -but as he wears no clothes, except a rag about his loins, it does not -matter so much, the sun soon dries him. These fishermen are more like -fishes than human beings, as they are in and out of the water every -minute. - -All the export trade of Abyssinia comes to Massowah, and the goods are -mostly shipped by the Hindoo Banians, who have had a monopoly of the -trade of this place for many years. The merchandise is sent to Bombay, -by Aden, in native boats called sambouks. There is a pearl fishery off -the island of Dhalac, thirty-five miles from the coast of Massowah, -and the Banians make a good thing of it, paying for pearls in clothes -and those necessaries the natives of the island are likely to want, -and selling their purchases for rupees at Bombay. - -_Dec. 30._--The first day in camp was certainly uncomfortable in all -respects, as was to have been expected, but we soon got straight, and -then had time to look about us. The hills of Abyssinia in the -distance, lying due west of our little camp, looked so lovely as the -sun set over them, one range rising over the other, that I was eager -to be off to see a country that so little is known about, and whose -people are the only black race of Christians existing. - -We pitched our little camp outside the town on a small peninsula, -close to where the Egyptian Government is building a large house for -the Governor. - -There is no shade whatever near Massowah, and the Governor very kindly -got the Egyptian soldiers who were told off to us as our guard, as -well as his servants, to put up a large mat "shemmianah,"[1] which -gave us a very pleasant shade during the heat of the day. We always -took our meals under its shelter while we stayed at Massowah. - -As I said before, my heavy guns had not arrived at Suez, so my battery -was as follows:-- - -One 16-bore central-fire gun, by Purdey, carrying ball. - -A muzzle-loading rifle, by Purdey, carrying 21/4 drachms of powder. - -A 12-bore pin-fire shot gun, which I bought at Suez from Captain -Kellock of the P. and O., made by Crane, of the Royal Exchange. This -turned out to be a most serviceable gun and a very hard hitter. - -These guns were rather weak to shoot the large game with, but H. had -brought his Rigby's "Express" with him, which, he said, I could use -whenever I wanted to do so. - -_Dec. 31._--We had all four settled the evening before to go out -shooting, and accordingly, this morning, we started early for the -lowest range of hills to be seen in the distance. We expected to find -some small game, such as gazelles and small deer. I rode a camel, and -H. a donkey. Traversing the narrow causeway which joined the little -peninsula on which our camp was situate to the mainland, the first -thing that struck me was the beautiful colours of the fish in the -seawater at each side of the causeway. A. got off his camel and tried -to shoot one, but the water was rather deep. - -On reaching the mainland we found ourselves in a large open plain -covered with stunted bushes, and in the distance could be seen the -village of Moncullu, where the residents of Massowah go during the -heat of summer, which is very great in this climate. - -H. and I made for the hills as quickly as we could; my camel striding -ahead took the lead, and he followed on his donkey. The motion of the -camel is very pleasant; as I had bought a capital camel-saddle in the -bazaar at Cairo, so far from the motion being inconvenient, as some -travellers allege it to be, I found it very comfortable; it almost -made me fall asleep. - -We saw no game on the plain we were crossing. When we had got over the -first range of small hills, the guide, a Shoho Arab, stopped in the -sandy bed of a small river where some Arabs were watering their flocks -of goats. The water is got at by grubbing a hole in the sandy bed of -the river, and then the Arabs scoop it up with a goatskin into a -wooden trough, or, failing that, into another hole made in the sand. - -Here we stopped for a short time, watered our beasts, and asked the -natives if they had seen any game. They said there was something in -some bushes close by, whereupon we were both on the tiptoe of -expectation. I got my rifle ready, and H. his shotgun. We went towards -the spot indicated, and, almost among the herd of goats, I saw running -about a small brown-looking beast, like a very small deer. We tried to -stalk him, but he bolted past. H. fired at him and missed; I then -fired my rifle and missed also. We then kicked him out of another -bush, but H. did not see him, he having broken cover on the wrong -side. - -This animal turned out to be a little mouse-deer, or dik-dik. In -loading my rifle again, I rammed down the bullet without putting in -any powder, not being accustomed to use muzzle-loading weapons. This -put one barrel _hors de combat_; thus the reader will see that my -first attempt at African sport was not a success. - -One of the natives then volunteered to show us some bigger deer. We -went on through a sandy, rocky valley in which mimosa-bushes were -dotted about. H. agreed to go to the ground to the right and I to the -left, so as to work it over thoroughly. The boy who was with me said -he saw some deer on the ridge of the high hill at the foot of which I -was; I went up the hill, and sent him round the other way. On coming -to the top I saw the deer feeding and wagging their tails just below -me, but they were too far off for the rifle I had. I longed for my -Express, which, at that time, was on its way to Pointe de Galle in -Ceylon, instead of being with me! The deer caught sight of me and -trotted away. I sent back the boy for H., as he had his Express with -him; when he joined me we tried to get at them again, but failed. We -saw another dik-dik, and then started for home, in a temperature that -was very hot indeed. - -We were back in camp late in the afternoon, and, having had something -to eat, I determined to take my rifle on board the _Dessook_, to ask -the engineer, who was an Englishman, to extract the bullet. Arrekel -Bey, the Governor, sent a boat round to our camp, and the men rowed us -out to the ship, singing, as they were rowing, a wild Arab song which -sounded very prettily. It was a lovely moon-lit night, and every dip -of their oars in the water threw up waves of phosphorescent light; -which phenomenon everybody who has been in these latitudes must have -seen and admired. - -The engineer put my gun right in about half an hour; he had to unscrew -the block at the breech of the gun. The Arabs rowed us home; they had -to carry us on their backs for a portion of the distance, as our boat -could not get near enough to the shore. The native who was carrying H. -managed to drop him, and he got a ducking; I very nearly tumbled off -my Arab sailor, on whom I was riding pick-a-back, from laughter, and I -was very glad to get to bed after a rather long day. - -_Jan. 1, 1875._--This day we all four paid a visit to Arrekel Bey, who -said he had seven mules to carry our things, and camels for A. and -Lord R., who were not going to the hills, but to the province of -Bogos, which formerly belonged to the Abyssinians, and was taken from -them by the Egyptians. - -A., who had been in this part of the world before, expected to find -plenty of big game, as it was a new country, and no English sportsman -had shot over it previously. I tried to buy a horse in Massowah; -Arrekel Bey's groom put him through his paces, showing him off up and -down the space in front of the Governor's house. It was very amusing -to see this Ethiopian sitting on the horse, with his toes well stuck -out, and displaying the points of the animal, much in the same way as -any London dealer would in his straw-yard. - -Arrekel Bey very kindly invited us to dinner for the next day at -Moncullu; he has a sort of little summer retreat there. He said he was -going to take us to see the wells which supply Massowah with water. -The water is brought in earthenware pipes built up inside the wall of -the causeway, along which we had gone the day before, and the water is -pumped up from wells in the rock by convicts transported hither from -Egypt. Massowah, before the conduit was completed, was very badly -supplied with water; in fact, there was nothing but rain-water tanks, -and the inhabitants, even now, are charged for the water so much per -skin. We were to take all our luggage and baggage to Moncullu, and -then this party of four was to separate; A. and Lord R. going to -Bogos, and H. and myself to Adowa, the capital of Abyssinia, whence we -intended to go down to Tackazzee for the shooting. The reader will -see, later on, that we had to change our plans. - -_Jan. 2._--This morning I prepared some fishing-tackle, intending in -the afternoon to try and catch some of the strange-coloured fish that -I had seen in the water the previous day. Fish of most beautiful -colours and extraordinary shapes and sizes abound in all parts of the -Red Sea. - -A. had brought out some of the iron traps that are used by keepers for -catching rabbits in England. I set one of these on the top of a heap -of stones near the camp, with a bit of meat tied on the plate of it, -to try and catch one of those great vultures which are always seen -hovering about Eastern towns. In about half an hour one came swooping -down on it, made a "grab" at the meat and was caught by the legs. He -would have flown away with the trap as well, but for Fisk, H.'s -English servant, who caught and secured him. He was one of the common -bare-necked vultures that live on carrion. - -In the afternoon I went out fishing, but did not find much sport; I -only caught a pipe-fish, which we ate. That evening some of our mules -and three camels, as also a string of camels for A. and Lord R., -appeared. Arrekel Bey, the Governor, sent to ask if we were ready; I -said we were all ready, but that our promised transport animals had -not all come. In about half an hour the Governor arrived himself, when -I told him that I could not start without a proper supply of mules. He -stated they could not be got that day, but he would do his best the -next day; I very politely said I would not move without my luggage. -He then ordered all the donkeys that are used to carry the water into -Massowah from the conduit just outside the town to be brought. They -were a mixed lot; some were blind and some were lame, but our luggage -was carried into Moncullu some way or other. The great thing was that -we made a move in the right direction. - -It was quite a sight to see this troop of animals, consisting of -camels, donkeys, and mules--the servants pushing along the narrow -causeway--one donkey lagging behind, and another trying to push -by--kettles tumbling off and straps coming undone. _C'est le premier -pas qui coute._ I am certain that it cost the poor donkeys a great -deal of pain, as they were frequently belaboured with sticks and were -loudly cursed in Massowah Arabic. - -Arrekel Bey took us to see the wells made in the rock in Moncullu, -where the most deliciously cool water is pumped up. The convicts -looked fine, strong, muscular fellows, but gentlemen that one would -not like to meet alone on a dark night. They had just left off work, -it being sunset, six o'clock. - -We then adjourned to dinner, which was laid out in a large oblong hut -made of grass. This is the way that houses are made in Moncullu, as a -free current of air passes through the whole structure, and any other -material would be too hot. - -We had a regular Turkish dinner, and not at all a bad one either. We -first began by drinking, as is the Turkish fashion, some excellent -liqueur which is called in these parts "arake." I believe it is made -in Smyrna, but it is very good. As some of my readers may know, a -Turkish dinner consists of a great number of dishes, which are handed -about to the guests in quick succession. I managed to get through most -of them, and I think I could have succeeded in doing more, but for the -circumstance that the champagne had not been iced; in fact, ice in -those parts is an unknown luxury. It is only in India that Europeans -can really _live_ in a hot country. - -After dinner we were taken to a large marquee. The ground outside was -surrounded by a circle of torches held in braziers, somewhat like a -beacon, burning wood which was replenished by the Egyptian soldiers, a -large number of whom had been "told off" for this purpose. - -There were divans in the marquee, on which we reclined. We had waited -about a quarter of an hour, when some musicians appeared with tom-toms -and rude guitars, on which they began strumming, and making a hideous -noise. Then some dancing girls were brought in, and their -extraordinary performance surpassed anything I had ever seen either in -India or at Covent Garden. - -The natives of Moncullu were ranged round the open part of the -marquee, singing to the music and keeping time by clapping their -hands. All the dancing girls did was to sway their bodies about in an -affected manner, stamp with their feet on the ground, and wag their -heads backward and forward, making their long plaited hair swing -across their faces. They were highly scented with musk, etc., _a la -mode Arabe_. Like all Arab women, they were very small but beautifully -made, with tiny hands and feet. - -This entertainment lasted about three hours, and, between the heat of -the hut and the smell of the negroes, I very nearly went to sleep. At -last the performance came to a close, and we retired to our respective -tents. The soldiers put out the lights, but I could see Arrekel Bey's -native servants, after we were gone, regaling themselves on the -remains of the liqueur and brandy left upon the table in the marquee. -My head, the next morning, was not quite so clear as it might have -been. It must have been the Turkish sweetmeats that caused it, I -think! - -_Jan. 3._--To-day we were all up at sunrise. Our mules were loaded, -and also our three camels. Two more mules had arrived the evening -before. H. bought one, of a grey colour, for his English servant to -ride, and I was to ride a small brown mule. She turned out a capital -animal and very sure-footed over the rocks in the hills. We ate some -breakfast and started for Sahatee at eight o'clock, having said -good-bye to A. and Lord R.[2] I little thought on that bright morning -when we shook hands and wished each other luck, that I should never -see his cheery face again. His death was indeed a sad, sad ending to -an expedition which began so pleasantly and well! - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] An Indian word for a large square tent. - -[2] Earl of Ranfurly, Captain Grenadier Guards, who died at Souakim, -on the Red Sea, May 10, 1875, on board the steamer which was that day -leaving for Suez. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - OUR EQUIPMENT -- TENTS AND BEDS -- COMMISSARIAT -- THE KITCHEN -- - MULES, THEIR HABITS AND TREATMENT -- CAMELS -- UP COUNTRY -- MY - FIRST BAG -- SILVER CUPS -- A WILD BOAR -- AILET -- OUR ESCORT -- - THE FIRST OF THE JUNGLE -- SWEDISH MISSIONARIES -- AN ABYSSINIAN - "SPA" -- A HOT BATH -- THE "RAINS" -- THRASHING THE TENTS. - - -Before taking the reader any farther into Abyssinia I must say -something about our equipment; what tents we had, and what description -of provisions. - -We took with us two tents; a three-poled tent made by Edgington, and -called by him the Punjab Hill tent. I should advise everybody to take -this description of tent for rough work in any country. Head room is -what is wanted for comfort; and this is the only strong, portable, and -shapely tent that combines those advantages. Mr. Galton, in his most -useful little book, the 'Art of Travel,' says very nearly the same -thing. We had a little Union Jack to fly at the top of it, and _iron_ -tent pegs. Of course these tents can be made of any reasonable size. -The other--a _tente d'abri_--was for Fisk, H.'s English servant, and -was for him to sit in while he skinned the birds we shot, of which we -intended to make a good collection, as they are very beautiful in -these parts. - -Ours was rather smaller than usual; our two beds were on each side of -a person entering the door, which left a space at the head of the beds -for a box for brushes and dressing-things, etc. - -We slept on iron camp-beds, and I was provided with a blanket lined -with silk, which is a device I should recommend to everybody else, -only advising them to take care that the blanket is long and wide -enough to fall over the side as well as to hang over the foot of the -bed. The sleeper lies in the fold of this blanket, so that if the -sides were tacked together it would make a complete bag; this is good -both for hot and cold climates. The lining should be of red or blue -silk, which is easily cleaned with a sponge or piece of rag, and some -warm water. White, of Aldershot, made mine for the Cannock Chase -autumn manoeuvres. It is almost waterproof, and can be slept in with -as much comfort as in the best sheets. - -Our provisions were calculated to last three Europeans for four -months. I had the list overlooked by the head purser of the P. and O. -Company in London, who gave me some very useful hints with regard to -preserving provisions. I cut down the amount of stores as much as -possible in order to save transport, as, from what little experience I -had had of India and coolie work in that country, I knew that the -lighter one travels, the more comfortable one is, and the farther one -goes. The following is an exact list of the provisions:-- - - 11/2 doz. tins of cabin biscuits (Peek and Frean). - 11/2 " " of German rusks. - 6 " small tins of cocoa and milk, from Lion brand. - 1/2 doz. small bottles of currie-powder. - 11/2 " pots of marmalade. - 1/2 " tins of plum-pudding. - One middle piece of bacon, cut up, and hermetically sealed in tins. - 1 doz. tins of ox-tail soup. - 1/2 " " of _pate de foie gras_. - 3 " " of Cambridge sausages. - 11/2 " " of sardines. - Two tin-opening knives. - 14 lbs. of yellow soap, called "primrose soap." - 81/2 pint bottles of Worcester sauce. - 61/2 " " of Harvey's sauce. - 28 lbs. of preserved potatoes. - 3 bottles of best French vinegar. - 12 lbs. of tea, done up in 1 lb. tins. - 1 doz. bottles of mixed pickles. - 18 2-oz. pots of Liebig's extract of meat. - -The cocoa and milk in tins was one of the most useful of the -provisions we had, as it only required the addition of hot water to -make a most delicious cup of cocoa. This was very useful when starting -early in the morning and things were wanted in a hurry, and it was -quite a meal by itself. German rusks I would also recommend, as they -are very good eating, and do not dry up the mouth so much as biscuits. -Of course these provisions were helped out a great deal by fresh meat, -milk, eggs, bread, etc., which we found in the country. Besides all -this, we took a large sack of onions, about two donkey-loads of rice, -some potatoes, some salt for table use in bottles, and some black -pepper and mustard. Coffee of the very best sort can be got at -Massowah. We took a little sugar with us, but it was not properly -packed, and all melted together in one compact mass. The best way to -take sugar would be to have pounded loaf-sugar done up in pickle -bottles or tins. - -With regard to the cooking, H. had a large tin box which contained a -canteen made by Thornhill, of Bond Street; into this all the boiling -cans and a small kettle fitted, the one into the other. I would not -recommend this arrangement for _rough work_, as if a can gets bent it -does not fit into the other, which is a disadvantage, as it then has -to be carried separately, and eventually ends by being knocked to -pieces. The best kinds of things for the cook are a common gridiron, a -large frying-pan, three sizes of pots made of _strong_ tin in the -shape of milk-pails for boiling in; a good tin kettle, a soup-ladle, -and a couple of butcher's knives. With those one may go anywhere. - -With regard to knives and forks, the best sorts are those that are -made by Thornhill, of Bond Street, for skinning animals, but they -answer other purposes as well. All steel things, in a hot, dry -climate, can be very well cleaned and polished by the natives with the -wood ashes out of the camp-fire, and there is no reason why they -should look dirty, for dirty things always take away the appetite, -especially if you have sometimes to eat rather strange food. The forks -I had made from my own pattern, and two of them can be converted into -a fish spear on an emergency. It is a great thing to try and manage to -have such implements as may be made to serve more than one purpose; as -the reader will understand, this saves a great deal of carriage. - -H. brought out two English hunting-saddles; they did very well for the -mules we rode in Abyssinia. He also brought snaffle-bridles; these -were a great deal better than the bridles of the country, which are -dreadfully severe and pull any animal back on his haunches with the -least touch. This is rather dangerous on a narrow path over a -precipice, as sometimes, going uphill, by mistake a rider is apt to -hang on by the bridle instead of catching hold of either the mane or -the pommel. The mules took to the snaffle very kindly; in fact, it -seemed quite a relief to them to have this description of bit in their -mouths. - -As so much has been written upon mules lately, with regard to their -use as draught animals for farm purposes and in other ways, I copy -from my notes made on my way home some memoranda of the way these -animals are treated and looked after in Abyssinia. - -Everybody in Abyssinia rides a mule; even the king rides a mule, and -has his charger led in front of him. This custom is followed by all -the nobles and "swells" in the country. - -The saddles used on Abyssinian mules are made with high cantels and -pommels, and are well padded; a good sheep-skin Numbdah, or one made -of old cotton cloth, folded into many folds--the older and the more -ragged the better, as it is then softer--is put under the saddle. On -the march, when the halting-place for the day is arrived at, they take -off the saddle but not the numbdah, tying up the mule in the shade -for about half-an-hour to let the animal get cool. They then remove -the numbdah and lead the mule to roll. The best place for this purpose -is in the ashes of an old camp-fire. In fact, in Abyssinia there are -regular rolling-places for the mules and donkeys at most of the -camping grounds; the animals seem to know them by instinct, especially -the patient ass, which latter is used merely for carrying baggage. -Anybody riding an ass in Abyssinia would be hooted through the -country. This is rather extraordinary, as these animals, among the -Arabs, and also in Egypt, are considered quite the thing, and large -donkeys of good breed fetch very high prices in Cairo. I myself saw -one at Suez that had cost at Cairo 40_l._, but he was made like a -race-horse. - -After the mule has rolled they take him to water; they next hobble -him, and let him go out to graze. The best sort of hobble I have ever -seen, and one used in Abyssinia, is one by which the near fore leg is -tied up with a leather thong, about three-quarters of an inch wide, to -the off hind leg, or _vice versa_. The thong must be so tied that the -mule can walk pretty easily, and yet it should not be too loose. - -These remarks apply to donkeys as well as to mules; but, of course, -the former animals do not require so much care as mules. They need not -be hobbled when let out to graze, but should always have a man to -look after them in case of attacks by wild beasts. - -In travelling with these beasts the great thing, of course, is to -avoid sore backs in this country, where the temperature varies so much -in different parts; as, for instance, I was out duck-shooting one -morning at 5.30 in a white frost, and at the next camping ground, at a -less altitude, at the same hour of the morning, I could not bear a -thick coat on at all when walking out shooting. - -This change of temperature occurring very often, day by day, while -travelling with these animals through Abyssinia, must have, I think, -some effect on the backs of mules and donkeys. The origin of the -swelling under the skin, I am persuaded, must depend on the sudden -check to the perspiration. Of course, if the saddle or packing had at -all bruised the back of the animal, this would accelerate the -complaint. - -The back having become sore or swollen up, matter is formed -underneath.[3] To cure this the natives of Abyssinia cast the donkey -or mule, and with a hot iron score the back. In two days the wound -begins to discharge matter; after a few days more, the sore should be -washed once or twice every twenty-four hours and dressed with _fresh -butter_. The back becomes much harder after these wounds have healed -up, but it requires at least a month or more to do so, and the animal -should be kept within doors or in any enclosed space, and fed on corn -and green food, as the discharge from the wound is exceedingly -weakening. - -Some merchants of Abyssinia, who travel daily for months down to the -coast from distant parts, much prefer mules and donkeys whose backs -have been burnt, as, they say, the animals are hardier, and the -soreness and swelling are not likely to recur. - -As to our camels, they were with us only a short time, for they left -us at the foot of the hills; my experience of camels, therefore, is -not very great. All that I observed was, that it is best to leave them -to the cameleers; but to see that the cameleers, when loading up at -starting, are not trying to shirk their loads and put the things told -off to _them_ on their neighbours' camels. This is a favourite -expedient, and they will tell any lies and swear any oaths to get rid -of a pound or two of baggage, especially if the camel is a favourite -one with them. - -With regard to the mode of packing mules and donkeys, it would take -up too much space to give an account here. All I would recommend to -the traveller is to follow the custom of the country in which he finds -himself. He should not interfere with the natives in loading, as, most -likely, he will thereby only display his ignorance, and they will get -annoyed and sulky at being interfered with. Sir Samuel Baker, in his -'Nile Tributaries in Abyssinia,' gives an interesting account of the -mode in which he loaded his donkeys for starting to Central Africa. - -Now, to continue our journey. The plain on which we had been encamped -soon ended, and then we began to ascend the hills. The ground was very -rocky and arid, only stunted bushes growing here and there. We then -came upon a small valley which reached to the bank of a sandy -river-bed, with rather thick jungle on each side. One of the servants -said we should be likely to find some game here. I got off my mule and -walked up the bed of the river, telling the man with my mule to go -straight on with the rest of the party, and that I would rejoin them -after making a slight detour. After I had gone a little way a dik-dik -crossed the dry river-bed in front of me; I fired at him, but it was -too long a shot. I then tried to circumvent some guinea-fowl, with -which the jungle fringing the banks of the watercourse abounded; they -made the whole place alive with their calling to each other. They are -exactly like the guinea-fowl one sees at home, and make precisely the -same noise. They did not let me approach them within shooting range, -being very shy. I successfully stalked a hare and knocked him over, he -was of that description of animals which our American cousins call the -jackass rabbit; I leave it to naturalists to give his Latin name. We -ate him for dinner, and he was capital food. - -I then trotted on in front of H., and arrived at Sahatee, the place we -were to camp at for the night, about one o'clock in the afternoon. My -first thought was to get something to drink, as I was very thirsty; -therefore, obtaining some oranges from a native, of these I sucked -some, and squeezed the juice of others into my little silver bowl; -they were very bitter, but greatly refreshing. - -Before I go on, let me recommend travellers to take these small silver -bowls with them; it is wonderful how useful they will be found. The -bowl can be applied to many purposes, and is easily cleaned with fine -wood ashes. One makes one's tea in it, covering it over with a plate -to make it draw; one drinks one's soup out of it, or coffee or cocoa, -as the case may be; and one mixes one's medicine in it. Silver is a -very good metal for things to be made of, as if it is bent it is -easily brought into shape again. One of the gun-bearers should always -carry the bowl, so that the traveller may have it at hand to dip into -the stream and drink from; the brightness of the silver shows whether -the water is fit to drink. In Abyssinia the natives do not understand -silver vessels, and set no value on them, thinking they are tin; but -in other countries they might easily be stolen. - -The camping-place of Sahatee is surrounded by rocks. There are two -trees on a little knoll in the centre, and it was under one of these I -was lying when H. appeared with the camels, the tents and baggage. We -pitched the little tent in the bed of the dried-up river, whence, -during the rains, the water dashes over the rocks and flows away to -the sea. After we had had something to eat, H. said he was going out -shooting, one of the Arabs in charge of the camels telling him that -wild pigs abounded here. He had not long gone out of camp before I -heard the crack of his rifle. He had wounded a boar in the hind -quarter, as it was coming to drink; but the boar trotted away, leaving -blood tracks, which H. and the Arab tried to follow up, but soon lost -them in the dust and the hard-baked ground of the jungle. When I heard -the shots I started off also to try and find a boar, but was not so -lucky. I got back about an hour before dusk, and saw several of the -Francolin partridges pecking about the camping ground; I killed one -and wounded another. H. had just come in, and as the wounded bird -rocketed over his head he knocked it down. H. also shot a small brown -duck. I had tried to get some of the little sand-grouse as they came -down to drink; but these little birds only come down just as it is -getting dusk, and settle quickly on the ground, uttering their -peculiar plaintive cry. It was almost impossible to discern them in -the fading light, and as I wanted to get a pot shot into the "brown" -of them as they were on the ground, for the cook to prepare for our -breakfast next morning, I waited too long, the light failed, and I had -to give up my intention. - -We were camped on the shingle of the river, which, although it is -always a very dry, clean spot, and free from insects, has this -disadvantage, that the iron legs of the camp-beds sink rather far into -the ground; and sometimes one wakes up finding oneself in a slanting -position, with the head lower than the legs. - -_Jan. 4._--This morning we were on the move early, having left at 6.45 -for Ailet. It was a lovely, cloudy day, which is a thing that one -knows how to appreciate in an Eastern climate. The country became much -greener as we approached Ailet; this village lies in a valley which is -exceedingly fertile--that is to say, as far as it is cultivated by -the Shoho Arabs who dwell in the village. Elephants are found here -after the rains, but the place is rather unhealthy at that time, and -most of the natives, who are miserable creatures, suffer from fever. - -I should state that the Governor had provided us with a guard of six -irregular Egyptian soldiers and a non-commissioned officer. In the -middle of the night at Sahatee, we had heard the loud report of the -Egyptian corporal's carbine. We thought we were going to be attacked; -but it turned out, next morning, that he had fired at a pig, in hopes -of securing some fresh meat. - -These poor soldiers' pay is four dollars a month; they find themselves -in clothes and food, but are provided with arms, and all military -service is compulsory with the Egyptians. - -Our cameleers and Naib Abdul Kerim--the man whom Arrekel Bey, the -Governor, had given us to guide us through the country and manage our -transport as far as Adowa, the capital of Abyssinia--wanted us to camp -near a large tree just outside the house of the Sheik of the village -of Ailet. H. and I, however, agreed to go on, so as to get to the hot -springs of Ailet, as it was early in the day and we should be a little -farther on our journey; we should also be farther away from the -village and more likely to get shooting. After some little palaver -and remonstrances from the cameleers, who thought they had come to the -end of their day's march, we moved on. - -The scene now changed from an open valley into a thorny jungle, and -the road was frequently crossed by dried-up river-courses. H., who had -already acquired a fine collection of birds in Ceylon and Australia, -was very anxious to secure specimens here. This jungle was alive with -all varieties of parti-coloured warblers, and he shot several -specimens, including a sort of jay with a hooked bill, which utters a -strange cry--one that everybody travelling in Abyssinia will soon get -accustomed to. It is not unlike the noise of the English jay. - -We shortly afterwards came to a little stream which flows from the hot -spring; and we saw a white house in the distance perched on the top of -a high hill, for which we made. The little stream narrowed as we -advanced, and we found ourselves in a rocky pass. Our Arabs told us -that the camels could go no farther. The white house, as we learnt, -belonged to some Swedish missionaries. We pitched our camp just at the -foot of the hill which rose straight above us, the little white house -looking very picturesque at its top; the hot spring was about ten -minutes' walk from our camp. One of the missionaries came down to -speak to us; he said that they had only just finished building their -house, and he hospitably invited us to stay there, but we declined, -with thanks. - -H. said he would go out shooting, but I stopped in camp to settle -things, and before dinner I went up and bathed in the hot spring. My -readers must know that this is the fashionable Spa of Abyssinia, -whither invalids afflicted with scrofulous and other complaints come -to bathe. It is held in great repute all through the country, and I -believe with good reason. - -The spring was almost too hot to sit in, but I had taken up my big -sponge, and douched myself well; the bath was very soothing after the -heat and march of the day. - -This evening it began to rain; this will give the date of the -beginning of the rains in the hills lying between the sea and Asmarra, -the first table-land in Abyssinia that one comes to on this road. -These rains must not be confused with the rains that pour down in -Abyssinia, supplying the Nile tributaries that Sir Samuel Baker has -explored, and which begin in the month of May. - -Directly the rain began the servants and myself busied ourselves in -making a little trench around the tent; this is a precaution everybody -ought to take where there is the least chance of rain. I also got my -_courbatch_[4] and thrashed the tent well all round. The reader will, -doubtless, wonder why I did this, but it is an old soldier's dodge, -and the reason for it is that it makes the threads of the -canvas--which, in hot countries, become shrunken and open--to close -together, so that, after the application of the _courbatch_, the tent, -instead of getting leaky with the rain, becomes more waterproof than -before; a large pliable bundle of twigs will do just as well. H. came -in, having shot a small bird or two for his collection, and having -seen some pig down the watercourse. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[3] It is not a necessary coincidence that if the back becomes sore -the swelling should come on, as I have seen several cases where there -were no outward signs of soreness, but still where large swellings -were forming. - -[4] The _courbatch_ is a whip made of hippopotamus hide, and used in -Egypt and in the provinces belonging to that country. It is with this -whip that malefactors and offenders against the law are chastised. -Every stroke of it, if well laid on, will cut into the flesh. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - GENERAL KIRKHAM -- DIK-DIK -- AN ABYSSINIAN HOUSE -- A SUCCESSFUL - DODGE -- EGYPTIAN OUTPOSTS -- A PET SHEEP -- SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE - -- LOST IN A MIST -- A "NASTY CROPPER" -- SAFE IN CAMP -- DIGGING - FOR PIGS -- A LUCKY SHOT -- A SHOWER BATH. - - -I had heard at Massowah that General Kirkham, commander-in-chief of -the King of Abyssinia's army, was at Gindar, about half-a-day's march -from Ailet. I had written to the General from Massowah, and, this -evening, a servant of the missionaries brought me a note from him, -saying that he would come and see us next morning. I was very much -interested in seeing General Kirkham, who had lived so long in -Abyssinia away from his own country.[5] - -_Jan. 5._--We got up rather late the next morning, and H. went out -shooting. I said I would stay in camp and receive Kirkham when he -came, but he did not arrive after all till the afternoon; so, having -waited for him until twelve, I decided to go out shooting. I proceeded -down to the watercourse, and had not gone far before I came to a pool, -at which some pigs were about to drink; I tried to stalk them, but -they trotted away. I then turned sharp to the left into the jungle, -and wandered about some little time. One could not well imagine a more -likely place for wild game, and I expected every moment to see some -strange animal dart out of the bushes. - -The air was very hot. I had walked about an hour and a half, and I -determined to rest and eat some sardines and a crust of bread which I -had brought with me. I got on the top of a little mound, and was -discussing my luncheon, when I heard a sort of sneezing noise behind -me. This made me prick up my ears; I looked round and saw walking -quietly out a beautiful little male dik-dik. I rolled him over with my -shot gun, pulled out my knife and rushed after him. He was struggling -and bounding about on the ground when I got up to him, when I made -several vigorous stabs at him with my knife, but, to my great chagrin, -he scampered away. I ran after him, getting well torn by the bushes, -and found him lying dead just at the foot of a thorny bush. This was -the first African animal I shot, and, although he was so small, I felt -as proud of him as a cat would with her first mouse. - -At the time the dik-dik came out I heard pigs grunting in a little -dell below me, but I could not see them at all. I went back to camp, -and hearing that Kirkham was up in the missionaries' house I sent word -to him that I had come in. I was sitting in the tent when suddenly I -saw a fair, rather good-looking, slim man walking up to me; he was -dressed in a frock-coat and forage cap--a sort of undress general's -uniform. It had a very strange effect to see this man walk up to one -in an African jungle--his dress, too, not such as one would expect to -see in those parts. - -We soon became the best of friends. He told me he would do everything -in his power to get us shooting, and forward us through the country. -We had a very pleasant little dinner in the tent, talking over our -prospects; Kirkham said he would breakfast with us next morning, and -then go on to Gindar. At this place he has built a sort of wooden -shanty; he had also brought his tent with him to make arrangements for -us. He was attended by an Abyssinian servant, named Peter Brou, a man -who had been educated at Malta; this man spoke English very well, and -could also speak Amharic, all the Abyssinian dialects, and Arabic. -Kirkham recommended us to take him as our servant, which we did; he -turned out very useful, and was one of the best interpreters I ever -knew. - -_Jan. 6._--After breakfast, and when Kirkham had left us, the weather -having cleared up, I went out shooting, and walked through the jungle -down to the village of Ailet. The boy who was with me was an -Abyssinian Mussulman, living at Massowah, but he seemed to know all -the Shoho Arabs in the village. I went into a house to look at the -interior and see what it was like; it was an oblong structure built of -grass, divided by a grass screen into two chambers, the door of the -screen being covered by an Arab cloth. The Arab women, who were -grinding corn, amused themselves by peeping at me through the ragged -holes in the cloth; they were very civil, and brought me a cup of -coffee. I ate my lunch and then started with two of the boys of the -village, sent by their father to show me the place where I might find -"pig." I did not see anything, but my Massowah boy annoyed me very -much by coolly firing at some guinea-fowl with my 16-bore gun loaded -with ball, so I told him that the next time he did that I should give -him a good thrashing. - -I then walked on towards the little stream running from the hot -springs, rather disappointed and tired. Going through the jungle I put -up a dik-dik hind; this animal trotted away out of shot range, and -then stopped and looked at me. I had read in some book of African -sport that the curiosity of deer is extraordinary, so I squatted down -and twirled my gun about much in the same way as signallers do with a -signal flag. To my great astonishment the little dik-dik pricked up -her ears, and gradually making little circuits approached within -range; it seemed almost a pity to shoot so pretty a little animal, but -I fired and rolled her over. - -On my way towards home I heard in the jungle some people chattering; -they were the women of the village of Ailet, gathering and cutting -firewood. I was walking on when two very pretty and gracefully-shaped -girls stepped out from the bushes; they were stripped to their waists -in order to work more easily. Mahomed, the Massowah boy, seemed to -know them, for both of them came smiling up to him, saying, "Ah, -Mahomed, how are you?" and he kissed them both. This young gentleman -seems to be quite a Lothario, and knows all the girls about here. When -the ceremony of kissing was over the girls saw me for the first time, -and retreated like two startled gazelles. - -Dik-dik flesh is very good eating; it tastes better roasted when one -has bacon to add to it. The best way to cook the haunch is to lard it -well with bacon fat and then roast it in Turkish fashion, skewered -through with a stick. - -The above applies to gazelles as well, as these animals have no fat -except round their kidneys. This is also the best way to cook all -birds, but the larding may be omitted. - -_Jan. 7._--This morning, having bade adieu to the missionaries, we -started for Gindar by a short cut across the hills. The missionaries -are making this road, but the jungle is not all cut yet. Our guide was -Brou, the interpreter that Kirkham had given us as a servant. - -Having travelled up the gorge, we passed the hot spring. Here the -missionaries have built a little house for the poor sick who come to -bathe. Pushing our way through thick thorny jungle we came suddenly on -a beautiful valley, green and fresh-looking, with high hills in the -background, one of which we were to cross to reach Gindar. In the -distance, on the side of a hill, might be seen the station of -Sabargouma, where three or four Egyptian soldiers are stationed to -look after the customs and Egyptian interests. - -On descending the valley I resolved to try to shoot, as it looked a -likely place for game, so I got my rifle and gun and started with -Mahomed, the Massowah boy. Kirkham had given us a black, fat-tailed -sheep of the Asmarra breed, a celebrated one in Abyssinia; this animal -followed me and assisted at the death of another dik-dik. We never -killed this black sheep for eating, and he accompanied us all through -Abyssinia and became a great pet in camp. I found H. at Sabargouma, -where we had a little gin and water. Fisk said he saw a large hyena, -but the cunning brute soon slipped out of sight. He shot a specimen or -two for his collection. We then started to ascend the steep hill in -front of us; this was a lovely ride, and it reminded me very much of -the Himalayas without the beautiful rhododendrons that grow there. The -latter part of the ride was through an olive grove. The air on the top -of these hills is most exhilarating; I felt able to do anything, and -my mind was busy imagining all kinds of sport and adventures in such a -lovely country. About one in the afternoon we entered the small valley -of Gindar. - -Before I go on with the journey I wish to say a little concerning -Gindar, and what General Kirkham proposes doing there. Gindar is a -fertile valley enclosed by hills; south-south-west lies Debra Bizen, -which rears its head high above the rest of the hills. There is a -monastery on the top, and the monks are said to be rich and in great -favour with King Johannes. The grass in the valley is very good; at -the time I speak of, the Shoho Arabs had driven their flocks here to -graze; and their cattle-stations are found dotted about in the little -vales between the hills. The grass of the valley is intermixed with -numerous sweet-smelling herbs, such as wild peppermint, thyme, etc.; -the castor-oil plant also grows wild here. - -The sides of the hills are covered with wild olive groves, and in -places we came across velvety lawns which reminded us of a well-kept -English pleasure ground rather than the wilds of Abyssinia. Game is -abundant, and elephants were in the neighbourhood, as the hunters from -Adowa had been here. One of them having broken his clumsy matchlock, -was obliged to return to get it mended. Koodoo, gazelle, dik-dik, and -other antelopes abound, as well as many large pigs, and, as the -Irishman is made to say, guinea-fowl and partridges here "jostle each -other." This was, of all others, the place for us, so we determined to -stay for two or three days. - -Gindar has been given by the king to General Kirkham, who has built a -house, and has also allowed the missionaries to build one. He intends -trying to start a bazaar and small town to supply travellers going and -coming to Massowah; and also to supply the Abyssinian merchants with -the little European necessaries they require there without having to -go into Egyptian territory to buy them, which at present they have to -do at Massowah. - -I thought I would take a turn with my gun; it was a misty evening, and -too late to go out shooting. I wandered over the hills, and, the light -failing, I was "making tracks" for home; it got darker and darker, and -the mist got thicker. The little Galla boy that Kirkham had sent with -me to show me the way, was a stranger to these hills; he never lost -heart once nor spoke a word: at last he uttered a sort of whine; I -then knew I had better trust to myself. I had seen, about a quarter of -an hour before, the light of the fires of an Arab cattle station; I -resolved to try and see the light again; so I fired my gun off twice -to attract the attention of those in camp, but I was between hills, -and they did not hear. I was pushing through the wet bushes when down -I slipped, head over heels, on some creeper-covered rocks, but I -picked myself up, with no harm beyond a fright. I was determined to -find the light again; and, forcing my way through the jungle, as it -was getting intensely dark, all of a sudden I again fell. This time I -fell about twenty feet. The Galla boy was more careful, and, seeing me -fall, crept along on his hands and knees, feeling his way as he went. -I clutched hold of the creepers that grew on the rocks, and picked -myself up. I heard water gurgling beneath, and I thought to myself it -was lucky I did not fall farther, for I might have fared worse this -time. I lost my felt hat, but the most extraordinary result of these -false steps was that my little 16-bore gun, which I had with me, was -not the least hurt, although it received several serious blows against -the stones. At last I caught a glimpse of the welcome light. The -cattle station was in a little vale: the smell of the cattle now -guided me, and I soon found myself alongside of the thorny hedge that -surrounded these camps. The women were preparing the evening meal, and -when they saw me without any hat, and looking rather scared, began to -laugh. This I thought unkind, so I pushed through the thorn hedge and -went straight to one of the little fires. An old Arab was squatting by -it. I was streaming with perspiration, and very thirsty. I asked him -for a drink, and he brought me some water in a wooden bowl; no iced -champagne ever tasted so good, and I swallowed it all; then I took off -my coat to dry, having made up my mind that I was to stop here for -the night. At least here was a fire and a chance of some food--better -than the wet jungle in any case. - -The old Arab seemed to understand I was going to make myself -comfortable for the night, and he went and fetched two others, younger -ones, and by signs and saying the word Gindar, I made them understand -that I was lost. They said they would show me the way home if I gave -backsheesh. I showed them the empty lining of my pockets; one does not -generally take out small change when going shooting in Africa, but -this only shows how useful it is. At last they agreed to show me the -way for a dollar, and the Galla boy and myself started for home; about -half-way we met a Greek that Kirkham had sent out to look for me, -carrying a lantern, accompanied by some native servants. I soon -reached home, and Kirkham congratulated me that my first adventure in -Abyssinia had not ended worse. - -Our little dinner was a pleasant one, as it was increased in number by -the presence of an ex-French navy captain who had joined the Commune -and now was an exile in Abyssinia. He was a wild-looking old fellow, -but a wonderful talker; and he and I chatted away gaily. He had come -from Adowa, and, having very little money, was nearly starved on the -road. He looked very pinched, and certainly disposed of a wonderful -amount of our preserved provisions with great gusto. - -_Jan. 8._--This morning I went out to look for pigs. I was wandering -about the jungle, when I saw an animal on some rising ground, quite -the size of a donkey. Whether it was the position of the ground or -that the old boar--for such it turned out to be--was very large, I do -not know; at all events I mistook him for a donkey, and did not fire. -He whisked up his little curly tail and trotted off, followed by his -spouses and some squeakers. I ran up, but they were soon lost in the -thick bushes. Naturally, I was dreadfully annoyed, and resolved to let -fly at everything in future. - -I saw no end of guinea-fowl, but did not fire, being on the look-out -for larger game. After wandering about for an hour or so, I came to -the little vale in which the cattle station was, the scene of my -adventure of the night before. - -An old sow and two squeakers were there, enjoying the green grass. I -came on them rather suddenly, and the squeakers trotted off, but as -the old sow moved after them, I broke her back with a ball from my -little 16-bore Purdey; she was a very old lady, with good tusks. Both -the boars and sows in this part of the world have fine tusks; the -boars' tusks only differing by being larger. She died very game; and -as I twice drove my knife into her throat, she was very quick with -her tusks and once nearly caught my shin. I lost the rest of the -afternoon's shooting, having to send back the only boy I had with me -to camp, to ask for people to carry the game home. We had liver and -bacon for breakfast the next morning, and it was excellent; also pork -chops. - -_Jan. 9._--This morning, after breakfast, I went out shooting, -accompanied by Brou, and saw some dik-dik, but did not fire at them, -as I had already killed three specimens. We came to a large hole in a -bank, not unlike a fox-earth, and I heard some beasts running about -inside, which Brou said were pigs. I never heard of pigs going to -ground before, but he assured me they did so in Abyssinia. - -He and I set to work to stop the hole, and we put a boy over it to -watch. I retired to a shady spot, and told Brou to go home and send me -out some lunch, and bring people (some of our bullock-drivers and -donkey-men) to try to dig out and unearth the pigs, or whatever they -were. In due course of time the lunch appeared, and, shortly after, -Brou, with some Shoho Arabs, our drivers. We tried very hard to get at -the animals, but they beat us; the earth was too deep, and ran in -among roots; the soil also was very hard for digging with such -wretched tools as the Arabs brought. I longed for an English ferreter -with his spade. - -A Greek, named Aristides, who is engaged here for cutting wild olives -for the Khedive of Egypt, came to see Kirkham. This Greek employs -Abyssinians to cut the wood and send it to Egypt, where, I am told, -his Highness uses it for parquet floors. I induced him to mount a -spear-head I had brought out with me, on a stout stick, and it looked -very well and serviceable. He said he would go out shooting with me -next morning; and, as he knew every inch of the ground round Gindar, I -was delighted. - -The following morning we both started off at cock-crow, while the dew -was on the ground, for a hill lying behind Kirkham's shanty, which he -had built here. It was rather steep walking, but a lovely morning and -as fresh as possible. - -The Greek was in front of me tracking up a herd of Hagazin or Koodoo, -when he suddenly stopped and aimed at something with my rifle that he -was carrying for me. I stepped up as gently and quickly as I could, -took the rifle and fired at a red-looking deer; the animal dropped -like a stone. I rushed down the steep bank, and found the bullet had -gone right through its head between the horns. I could not account for -this, as I had aimed behind the shoulder. The Greek said that at the -moment I fired, the deer turned its head round and looked at me; as -the animal was standing a good deal below me, this must have been the -case. - -It was a wonderfully lucky shot; as, if the deer had bounded a few -yards away wounded, the bushes in this part were so dense that it -would have been rather hard to find the game. This antelope turned out -to be a bush-buck, called in Abyssinia Doucoula. - -The Greek and I then went to the top of the hill, having cut up and -skinned the deer and sent a boy home with it; it was a heavy load for -him. My companion showed me a little bird, the honey-bird, that kept -flying backwards and forwards in front of us, seemingly to lead us on. -Aristides explained to me that this little bird not only leads on -sportsmen to the nest of the wild bee, but also to the lairs of wild -animals. Shortly afterwards the Greek stopped, and I noticed he had -seen something; they were the koodoo we had been tracking up, though I -did not see them myself. - -When we got to the top of the hill the view was lovely. The valley of -Sabargouma lay in the distance, and beyond it the low hills between us -and the sea-coast. We then returned to camp, and on the way back I -took a shot at a pig with my little 16-bore gun. We had a haunch of -the venison for dinner; it was very good, but without fat. - -The rain poured down the best part of the night; and, unluckily, we -had put our beds at that end of the shanty which was most leaky. I -woke up and found myself enjoying a shower-bath from the roof. H. was -much in the same plight, and we were both glad when morning broke. - -_Jan. 12._--A good breakfast and some hot cocoa soon warmed us up, and -we started for Beatmohar, the place where General Kirkham has a house. -This is the first table-land of Abyssinia that one comes to, -travelling by this route. Our luggage was now carried by mules, -donkeys, and bullocks, driven by Shoho Arabs. It rained the whole day, -so the view of the hills was spoilt, which I regretted very much. At -the sides of the hills at the feet of which the path wound, it was -covered with a gigantic Euphorbia, called Qualqual in Abyssinia; it is -a sort of cactus, or grows like cactus, to the height of forty feet or -more. When its branches are wounded, a milky juice oozes out, which is -highly poisonous; if the least drop gets into one's eye it nearly -blinds one. In India, in 1870, when shooting in the Himalayas, I was -amusing myself with my hunting-knife by slashing at a plant, very much -like this one; a drop of the juice squirted into my eye. One of the -hunters, a native, brought me a sort of creeper with a leaf much like -a vine. He screwed up the stalk of it, and catching the juice in the -palm of his hand, offered me some, and told me to put it in my eye; -it afforded instantaneous relief. I do not think this cure is known to -the Abyssinians, as their woodcutters sometimes lose their eyesight. -Later in the day, as we reached a higher altitude, we saw no more of -this poisonous plant. We travelled on slowly through the mist and -rain, the bullocks slipping about over the rocks, and frequently -having to be reloaded, or the leather thongs which bound their baggage -tightened up. - -At last we came to an open dell in the hills, one of the -camping-places on this road, called Mehdet. Kirkham and myself with -great difficulty, and after wasting a number of matches, managed to -light a fire, and we warmed up some cold venison, frying it in oil -that Kirkham produced. H. did not like the dish, saying that it tasted -like hair grease; he preferred the venison _au naturel_: we ate a box -of sardines, and then started again. The road became very steep; at -four in the afternoon we reached the top of the pass, a narrow gully -between high rocks: there would be just room for two men to walk -abreast. - -The road after this for a short way was very good, like a good -hill-road in the Himalayas. At the bottom of this road was a small -valley, called Maihenzee: this was to be our camping-place for the -night, and one of the stages between Asmarra and Gindar. This was the -place where merchants from the interior generally stop on their way to -Massowah. - -There was good water in the valley; we pitched our tents, but -everything was wet and miserable. Kirkham told us that to-morrow we -should be out of these rains, which I was very thankful to hear. - -The cook Ali, a Cairo man, who, like all his species, did not relish -this sort of life, but wished himself on board a comfortable _diabeha_ -navigating the Nile and smoking cigarettes in the sun, made a bad -fire, and I saw very little prospect of dinner. I had to take his -place; and I concocted some soup with the help of Liebig's extract, -and I made a venison stew. We ate this and then turned in as quickly -as we could, before our blankets got wet with the mist. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[5] General Kirkham was formerly a steward in the P. and O. service. -He left the P. and O. ship in China, to join the British contingent -which Colonel Gordon at that time was raising for the war in China. -General Kirkham was terribly wounded both in the head and shoulder in -this war; he came home, and Sir William Fergusson, the surgeon, cured -him. He afterwards went to Annesley Bay, and, at the time of the -Abyssinian expedition, he was employed by Lord Napier of Magdala to -buy bullocks for commissariat purposes; when the expedition was over -he received leave from Lord Napier to go into Abyssinia. He tendered -his services to the king, and was made a colonel of the Abyssinian -army. Having drilled some Abyssinian soldiers in the English fashion -for the king, in the battle which the king fought against the rebel -Goubasse he gained a well-won reputation, for it was owing entirely to -those men that Johannes the king won this battle. After this he was -made commander-in-chief, which he is now. It may be remembered by some -of my readers that General Kirkham came home to England on a mission -from King Johannes, to claim protection for Abyssinia from the English -Government. This mission failed, and he returned to Abyssinia. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - A STRANGE "GET-UP" -- AN UNLUCKY SHOT -- CRANES -- AN INSOLENT - "CHICKER" -- OUR COOLIES STRIKE -- FLORICAN -- SERVANT HUNTING -- - NIGHT MARCHING -- FIRST SIGHT OF THE MAREB -- "LONG LIE" -- - COPTIC CHURCH -- A PEAL OF STONE BELLS -- HIGHWAY ROBBERY -- A - CHASE -- DOMESTIC QUARREL -- LUGGAGE DIFFICULTIES -- A MOONLIGHT - RACE. - - -_Jan. 13._--We made an early start this morning, as it was a lovely -day, and left the tents behind to stand and dry, as they would have -been very heavy to pack wet. The General accompanied us; he would have -looked a queer figure on an Aldershot field day. He wore an undress -general's uniform, with a large sword clanking by his side, sitting on -an Abyssinian saddle with rather faded trappings; he rode a mule, the -sword clanking against every rock on the narrow path. We saw some -partridges on the road, and I had a crack at one and wounded it, but -it soon made away. Kirkham jumped off his mule and rushed after the -bird, sword and all, to finish it off or catch it; but these birds run -like hares, and the game was soon lost in the thick bushes. - -We went on ascending, and as we did the vegetation became thinner and -thinner. At the top stunted yew-trees grew, so it must be cold here at -most seasons of the year. We then went over some low hills, and at -length found ourselves on a large plain, with cultivated land here and -there. A flock of large cranes were flying round and round; at last -they settled on a bit of ploughed land not far from the road. - -I rode towards them and tried to stalk them, but they would not let me -come very close. I fired my 16-bore gun into the "brown" as they rose, -but it had no effect. I would recommend all future sportsmen to take -out wire cartridges with them: one never knows what one may come -across in a wild country, and a wire cartridge at close quarters would -act like a bullet, and for long shots of course they are capital. - -In the distance might be seen the village of Asmarra; the houses -flat-roofed and built into the side of the low hill on which the -village stands. About ten or twelve of the natives came out to meet -us; they saluted us respectfully, and we touched our hats. They had -come out not only to meet us but also to stop our baggage-bullocks -from coming any farther than the top of the hills, as there was cattle -disease among the herds of the Shoho Arabs, and an order had been -issued all through Abyssinia that no cattle were to travel, or be -allowed to go to or from infected districts: this is worthy the notice -of our sanitary commissioners at home. Kirkham had trotted on, to make -arrangements at his house for us. We left the village of Asmarra, and -on our left the ground fell; as we rode on we passed several pools. In -the distance flocks of fat-tailed sheep might be seen cropping the -short grass, they were of the breed spoken of before, and celebrated -throughout Abyssinia. One fat sheep costs a Maria Theresa dollar;[6] -but two small ones can be bought for the same money. - -We saw Kirkham's little house, with a roof like an extinguisher, in -front of us; it was perched on a high cliff that overlooked the plain, -which was dotted about with water-pools. Kirkham had told us they were -famous places for ducks, and sometimes snipe. - -We soon arrived at the house; it was surrounded by the usual hedge to -be seen round all Abyssinian houses; this hedge is not growing, but -made of thorn-branches and stakes. The few houses which composed the -village of Beatmohar were close by. Kirkham at once produced some -honey-wine, called "tej" in Abyssinia; it was excellent, and proved -very refreshing after our ride. "Tej" is made in the following way: to -one part of honey are added seven parts of water, and well mixed; then -some leaves of a plant called "geshoo" are put into the mixture, to -make it ferment; it is put outside in the shade and left for a day or -two. A piece of cotton cloth is strained over the mouth of the large -earthenware jar, or "gumbo," and through this the "tej" is poured; the -servant tapping the cloth with his fingers to make the liquid run -freely. If one wants to make it stronger, the first brew is used -instead of the water; adding honey and geshoo leaves in the same way. -In the time of King Theodore that monarch had tej five years old, -which made any one drunk in a very short time; but those were the -"good old times" which we read of. - -We ate some lunch, and I took out my gun and went for a stroll; I shot -a large blue crane, and saw some ducks. I went out again with H. in -the evening to look out for ducks; a flock of teal just as it was -getting dark came whistling over my head, but I was not quick enough -for them. On my way home I shot an owl, which I presented to Fisk for -stuffing. He informed me it was identically the same as the barn owl -at home. I was rather disgusted, as I thought an Abyssinian owl must -be different from the home species; but he insisted that he had shot -lots of them in Norfolk, and said the skin of it was not worth the -carriage home. Over this I got rather "chaffed," so I resolved not to -shoot any more Abyssinian owls. I believe it is considered very -unlucky to shoot an owl! - -_Jan. 14._--This night we were very comfortable, sleeping in a sort of -divan that Kirkham had put up, round the inner room of his house. It -was a great relief to know before turning into it that the sleeper -would not be the unwilling victim of a leaky roof. - -We had settled, H. and I, and Fisk, to go at dawn of day to try and -get some duck in a pool just at the foot of the high rock on which the -house stood, so next morning off we started. It was bitterly cold and -a white frost on the ground. We crept down to the pool and let fly all -six barrels into the middle of the flock. Sad to relate, only three -fell, which were not picked up; one of Kirkham's Galla boys was sent -down later in the day and discovered two. - -We then proceeded up the pools; I flushed a snipe and knocked him -down, he was rather a lean specimen of his kind. On our way home I saw -those large cranes again coming towards me, so I squatted down as -close to the ground as I could and waited; the flock kept coming on, -making a great noise and screeching, but they saw me and wheeled away. -One old gentleman, rather in advance of the others, wheeled rather -close to me; I let fly my 16-bore No. 1 shot: it did not seem to -affect him in the least, when after going a little way, all of a -sudden he fell like a stone. I ran as hard as I could and found him -quite dead, with his backbone cut right through by the shot; how he -could possibly have kept flying in this state I do not know. His -shank-bones will make excellent pipe stems. - -The rest of this day we were engaged in again shifting our provisions, -etc., into skin bags; as boxes are very bad things to carry either by -coolies, mules, or donkeys. It is the custom in Abyssinia to have all -one's baggage, as far as possible, packed in these bags, and then the -coolies do not mind carrying them so much. A box is so hard it hurts a -man's shoulder when he carries it, and as for mules and donkeys it -means sore backs at once; besides, the leather thongs that bind the -box on to the mule are always slipping. We paid a Maria Theresa for -two of these bags, and found it rather difficult to get them. Kirkham -had gone to Asmarra to make arrangements for coolies, and when he came -back, he said everything was completed, and that we should start -to-morrow at sunrise. Vain hope, as the reader will see; for, instead -of starting at sunrise, we started at sunset. The people who dwell in -the gorgeous East have no idea of time, and always think that -Europeans are in a hurry, and that to-morrow will do as well as -to-day. - -We had sent a message to Belata Keda Kedan, the chief of this -province: he lives at a town called Tzazega, about half a day's -journey from Beatmohar. - -_Jan. 15._--In the morning no coolies appeared: one of the "chickers," -or tax collectors, or head-men of the village, was very insolent; he -brought three coolies, and asked an exorbitant price. I said I would -not give it; he then walked away laughing, followed by the coolies, -saying, "Well, you won't get them at all now." I thought to myself, -"My friend, you shall pay for this." I then politely asked him to walk -into our enclosure, shut the door, and made a prisoner of him; put a -guard over him, and told him he should wait. - -Kirkham's and the Galla boys were delighted; they thought, the young -rascals, there was a chance of a fight. We waited till the afternoon, -when, coming across the plain, we saw the chief, followed by a large -retinue, some on mules, some with shields, spears, and guns, holding -little plaited straw umbrellas over their heads. I made arrangement -that only the chief himself and a few of his followers should be -allowed inside our little enclosure. When he arrived I met him at the -door, and escorted him inside the house. We then told him all that had -happened, and had the prisoner brought in. The chief questioned him, -and then ordered him outside to be thrashed; but he was not punished, -as he implored to be let off, and said he would use his best -endeavours to get people of the village to carry our baggage. We gave -our Egyptian soldiers a present, and they went back to Massowah. - -We here changed our plans, as K. said it was only a waste of time -going to Adowa on our way to the shooting on the Mareb and Tackazzee, -and we might do it coming back. Eventually, after the chief's soldiers -and followers had hunted up the villagers, and dragged them, kicked -them, and beat them, they were made to carry our baggage. We started -about one hour before sunset, the coolies having gone in front. The -reason that the soldiers treated the villagers in this way was, that -the king, who was far away, had heard there were some Englishmen -coming into the country, and had given orders to the chiefs or -governors that we were to be treated with respect, and everything that -we wanted done for us. - -We travelled across a large table-land with not a vestige of foliage -to be seen, and no sound to be heard but now and then the bleating of -the sheep as they were driven to their pens near the villages for the -night. The moon rose, and we very soon found ourselves near a village -called Adouguada. All our coolies had stopped; the lazy fellows had -scarcely been travelling for two hours; they had handed our baggage -over to the head-man of the village. This is a usual mode of -proceeding in Abyssinia; one is passed on from village to village, and -if the villages happen to be close together the day is spent in -quarrelling and in looking over and counting the baggage. When I rode -up they were all talking at once and making a horrid noise, as is -usual on such occasions. I asked for a hearing, and informed the -villagers of Adouguada that if they did not carry our baggage I should -take two cows and two sheep from the village, and stop there all that -night with my servants; under these circumstances they would have to -provide us with bread, etc. Brou, the interpreter, advised me to do -this; he said, "It is the only way to get on, and you are travelling -in the king's name, and can have what you want." H. then came up with -K., and we procured something to eat and some coffee. The villagers -made much noise and gesticulation, and then at last picked up _half_ -our things and went off. - -We then started for Sellaadarou, the place we were going to camp at -that night. It was bright moonlight, and the moon in the East, as some -of my readers probably know, appears very different from our moon at -home. It was a beautiful ride, but a little cold. We arrived at -Sellaadarou about nine P.M., or perhaps a little later. K., like an -old soldier as he was, pitched the camp just outside the village, in -a sort of little garden that the villagers had made to grow their -capsicums in; it was surrounded by a thick thorn hedge, made of boughs -cut from the thorny acacia. This hedge provided us with wood without -any trouble; so we made two large bonfires to warm ourselves, ate some -supper, and turned in after a long worrying day. The other half of the -baggage had not come up when we retired to our tents. - -_Jan. 16: Sellaadarou._--After breakfast this morning I went out -shooting, taking with me a native of the village to show me the way. I -"put up" some partridges, among them a young florican, which I shot, -much to the astonishment of the Abyssinian. They never can make out -how birds can be shot while on the wing, as their plan is to get as -near as possible, and then "pot" the birds on the ground--a very good -one too, if the sportsman is hungry. I never knew before that there -were floricans in Abyssinia; there are plenty in some parts of India. -The bird was delicious eating. I saw two dark mouse-brown deer, but -could not get at them, and, of course, for a long shot I wanted my -Express rifle. When I came into camp I found that some of the -villagers of Sellaadarou had carried on a few of our things. H. had -been round the village with some of our servants to beat up the -natives; he said it was great fun running from house to house trying -to catch the men, the women swearing that their husbands or sons were -away. Abyssinian servants, on occasions like these, always filch any -little things they can quietly lay their hands on, and bring them to -their master afterwards; I had on several occasions to punish servants -for this, and make them take the things back. H. started in the -afternoon with a little more of the baggage. I told him we must force -our way on, and, as he was now on the move, to go as far as he could. -It will be seen afterwards he did a capital march. - -Chickut was the name of the village K. told us we could camp at. It -was rather a short march, and I knew H. would go farther, for we had -been very much annoyed by these continual delays, so we agreed that he -should go on to the next village beyond Chickut. K. then went back to -Adouguada to fetch up the other half of our baggage left behind; I -said I would wait for him. Time went on, and it got later and later. -Fisk, who had stayed with me, said he would go out and try to get -something good for dinner, in case we should have to stop the night -here. Just at sunset I saw K. in the distance, kicking his old mule -along as fast as he could; he rode up and said Maria Theresa had won -the day--meaning the dollars. "All right," said I; "let us have -something to eat--then we must start and make a night march of it." -Fisk then came in and we made some soup. - -There was nobody to carry the few things that remained here, so we -determined to use our mules as pack animals and walk; and a nice walk -it was, too. Fisk's white mule, bought at Massowah, declined to keep -the baggage on her back, and twice kicked all the things off, -scattering them right and left. Among them was the spirit case and -medicine chest; thank goodness, neither were broken. I had them made -after my own fashion, so this was a severe test for them. The white -mule had to be ridden after all, and poor K. had to give up his -riding-mule to carry the things. We started an hour and a half after -sunset,[7] and walked well right into Chickut, where we arrived about -eight P.M. The whole village was in a deep sleep, and we were only -greeted by a few barking dogs. - -The road from Sellaadarou to Chickut is very rugged, and is a steep -descent, but it was a lovely moonlight night, and what we could see of -the view was glorious. Euphorbia, and the wild olive, formed a great -feature in the magnificent scenery. Poor K. stuck to the walking well, -but he had on a thin pair of button boots, which were rather trying -to his poor feet over the rocks. He would insist that H. had stopped -at Chickut, but I knew very well that he had gone on. I then told him -what I had said to him before we started. We had some cold soup we -brought with us, and shared a small biscuit between us. H. had taken -all the provisions on in front with him. - -The road descended more or less steeply from Chickut to Deevaroua, and -at last we came to the Mareb. Here it is a small stream, and rises in -a high mountain about four miles from this place. K. told me that the -ground at the foot of the mountain was swampy, and that there were -springs as well all the year round. This river Mareb is the Gash of -the country in and near Kassala. In its course across the desert to -Kassala its waters are absorbed by the desert sands, but it is a -foaming, muddy torrent during the rains. This is one of the Nile -tributaries of Abyssinia, mentioned in Sir Samuel Baker's book. I wish -I had been able to fix the source of this river exactly, but I had no -instruments or other appliances with which to work; I hope to do this -eventually. - -The village of Deevaroua, where we were to stop for the rest of the -night, was on the top of the gorge through which the little stream of -the Mareb runs. A large and most beautiful tree, of the species -_Ficus Indica_, spread its branches near the stream. From this we -drank excellent water, and then went up to the village. After a little -wandering about we found where H. had pitched K.'s tent, which he had -taken on with him; all were asleep and snoring. I had a good mind to -"draw" H., but it was a quarter to eleven, so I let him repose in -peace. K. roused up his Abyssinian cook, Blanche[8] by name, and she -made us some coffee. The servants pitched our tent, and I turned in, -very tired but not exhausted. It has been shrewdly observed of the air -on these hills, that it is "like champagne, minus the headache." - -_Jan. 17._--We all took a "long lie" this Sunday morning, it being a -day of rest, and when we did get up we found ourselves encamped near -the village, and close to a little Coptic church. The view was -extensive, while across the table-land, which was intersected by -watercourses that looked like broken ditches, might be seen three -pointed rocky hills which rose up out of this bare plain and formed a -marked feature in the landscape. On the side of one of these hills -nestled the village of Terramnee,[9] which was to be our next halt. -After breakfast we agreed to go and see the Coptic church, so we sent -to the priests to say we were coming to pay them a visit. They replied -in a short time, saying they were ready to receive us, and met us at -the gate of the enclosure which surrounds each of these churches; we -then walked up a narrow path to the church door. The priest and his -two attendants all bowed down and touched the threshold of the church -with their heads before entering; it was a round edifice, with the -usual "extinguisher" roof. A narrow passage runs round the inside of -it between the outer wall and the "holy of holies," the entrance to -which was covered by a sort of ragged curtain. The outside wall of the -"holy of holies" was covered with rude frescoes--St. George and the -Dragon, the Virgin Mary, etc. The Virgin was portrayed with very large -eyes like saucers; St. George was a meek-looking creature, sticking -his spear into the dragon, but looking in an exactly opposite -direction. Rude frescoes, very similar in style, may be seen at the -parish church of Chaldon, near Caterham, in Surrey. As we were coming -away I saw some long stones hung up by grass ropes on a pole, -supported by two short sticks; I asked what they were. They said these -were used instead of church bells. They were musical stones, in fact, -which, when struck, gave out a very pretty sound; they were chosen so -as to make a scale of three notes. We gave the priest a dollar for -the good of the church, at which he seemed pleased and astonished. - -At Deevaroua I bought a large cured cowskin, to make sandals for our -servants when we got into the jungle. This I would recommend -travellers to do, as the sharp grass and thorns are too much for even -the horny feet of the Abyssinians, and the cowskin proved of great use -afterwards. - - [Illustration: A RACE FOR A SPEAR. - To face page 70.] - -About mid-day I started alone with Brou, who was to show me the way to -Terramnee, and to get coolies there to carry on our things to -Koudoofellassie, when we should be out of this province, which we have -had so much difficulty in getting through. I saw a ballaga[10] coming -towards me, the mule he was riding kicking and plunging about as -viciously as ever I saw any animal do. I said to myself, "I must make -the acquaintance of this gentleman;" so I rode up to him and said, -"How d'ye do?" and asked him to let me look at his spear. While I was -looking at it I edged away, then, giving my mule a good kick, galloped -off as hard as I could, spear and all. He was quite taken aback at -first, but soon began chasing me. We had a nice little spurt, but, as -bad luck would have it, one of these watercourses was in front of me, -and the way across it lay to my left, which would bring us almost -together. He saw his chance, and whipped up his mule, who had the legs -of mine, and caught me; I then pulled up, and he asked for his spear. -I delayed a minute or two, and then began laughing. He seemed to -understand the joke, and I gave him back his spear; he told Brou, who -was following after me, that he really thought I meant to take it away -from him. I heard them laughing a little way behind me. Abyssinians -are very cheery fellows, always ready for a joke, provided it does not -touch their pockets. - -When we reached Terramnee I sent for the chicker, or head-man of the -village, and they said they would go and fetch him. There was an -assembly of natives in the village, all jabbering at once. I asked -Brou what it was all about, and he said it was a dispute between a man -and his wife; one party takes the wife's part, and another the -husband's; judges are appointed, and they "jaw" away as hard as they -can. Several natives had come in from neighbouring villages about -this. At length, when it was over, they had the civility to attend to -me: the old story--the chicker could not be found; he was in the -fields; they had sent for him, etc. I asked, "Where's his house?" They -showed it me, and I went up to it. The old gentleman was at the bottom -of the hill which I had gone up, and in a friend's house. I told him -I wanted men to carry our things to Koudoofellassie, and he said he -would do his best, but he was not chicker over all the village, and -would send round to the others. H. and K., with luggage and servants, -came up, and then we had a nice row; the chickers vowed they would -have our things carried, but the natives would scarcely obey the -chickers. I called my old friend, whom I had first seen, and told him -that if we did not go on that day I should take him a prisoner to the -chief at Koudoofellassie, in whose province the village of Terramnee -was. Bit by bit our luggage was picked up and carried on; only the -heaviest part of it remained. - -The day wore on, and we got more and more impatient. At last the -chicker said, "The people will not obey us; you must go round the -village and beat them up with your servants." The natives were hiding -away in any available corner. H. and I went into one house where we -had been told there was a man; the house was quite dark inside, having -no windows or openings of any sort. We struck a lucifer--I do not -suppose they had ever seen one before. H. descried a man in a corner -and pulled him out, but he turned out to be an aged priest, exempt -from doing coolie work. The old fellow was much disturbed, but we -apologised and said we were very sorry, and he retired to his corner -quietly but grumpily. Such visits as these to the houses of the -natives reminded me very much of what is stated of the English -soldiers hunting for rebels in 1798. We managed to get a good number -of the natives unearthed. Directly one was caught he was sent off -under care of one of our servants to where our after baggage was -lying; a package was given him, and he was started for Koudoofellassie -immediately. The only thing that now remained was H.'s large tin case. -Tuckloo, one of the chickers, said there was not a young man left in -the village. I said, "It must be carried, or I tie you to my mule and -take you into Koudoofellassie to the chief." He considered a moment, -and then another man and himself slung it on a pole and carried it -off. H., Fisk, and myself now started "by moonlight alone" for -Koudoofellassie. The road lay across a plain almost all the way, so we -galloped our mules along at a great pace: the old fellow, Belata Keda -Kedan, sent with us to guide us safely through his province, shouting -at us and telling us to take care of the holes as we rode. We raced -into camp about ten P.M., yelling and shouting, being guided by the -light of our fires. - -We found the camp pitched and dinner ready; K. had gone in front and -done all this. Borum Braswouldeselassie, the chief of this province, -was waiting by the camp fire for us; a pleasant-looking, middle-aged -man, who had seen good service with the king. He said anything we -wanted we were to ask him for, and he would come the first thing in -the morning and see us again. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[6] Value about 4_s._ 2_d._ - -[7] Sunset is at six P.M. - -[8] Her Abyssinian name was Desta, which means "happy." - -[9] Terramnee means "stones in a row." This is a Tigre word, the name -of one of the large divisions or provinces of Abyssinia. - -[10] _Ballaga_ is the Amharic for a farmer, or one who cultivates land -The other three classes in Abyssinia are chiefs, soldiers or followers -of chiefs, and merchants. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - A GENERAL BATH -- RELIGIOUS PROCESSION -- THE GAME OF GOUX -- - DINNER-PARTY IN A STABLE -- ETIQUETTE -- GRAM -- FRENCH LEAVE -- - HOSTILITIES -- A PARLEY AND RECONCILIATION -- NATIVE BEER -- A - WHIRLWIND -- CULTIVATION -- ROADS -- FINE SCENERY -- A TALISMAN - -- A FIANCEE -- CAPTURE OF A GUIDE -- ROBBERS AND THEIR - PUNISHMENT -- THE CROPS -- CAMP ON THE MAREB -- TOMATOS -- LIONS - -- A NARROW ESCAPE -- SPEAR THROWING. - - -_Jan. 18._--To-day, after breakfast, I overhauled most of my things, -guns, fishing-tackle, etc., and put them in good order. The old -soldier that Belata Keda Kedan had sent with us was much interested in -all he saw. I asked him if he would like to go to England. He replied, -"I would go to your country if you would give me lots of tej and -arake, and nothing to do." It was very amusing to see him admiring his -face in a little toy looking-glass that H. had given him. He was to -leave us here (Koudoofellassie), so we gave him a present of ten Maria -Theresa dollars, and he went his way rejoicing. - -Borum Braswouldeselassie had come to see us before breakfast; he did -not stop long, as he said he had to go with his soldiers and -followers to attend the feast of Baptism. On this day all the -population of the town go down to the river and bathe; the priests -pray, and I believe bathe also. After we had taken breakfast Brou told -us that if we went a little way out of camp into the town we should -see the priests and procession returning from the river. We stood on -the top of a high mound, and very soon heard a most discordant braying -of horns in the distance. The procession now approached, the priests -bearing the sacred image of the Virgin, with a canopy held over it; -little boys were walking in front with incense. They were singing a -monotonous chant alternately, the women all taking it up at one time -and the men at another. Borum Braswouldeselassie and his horsemen were -in front of the procession, galloping about with their horses and -firing off their guns. The whole thing, except for the horsemen, -looked very much like a Roman Catholic procession. They marched past -us up to the church, and we saw them no more. K. said that on occasions -of this sort the Abyssinian horsemen play a game called _goux_, so I -begged of him to send a message to Borum Braswouldeselassie, asking -him to send some of his soldiers to play the game, in order that we -might see it. About three or four came out on a flat piece of ground, -which was the market-place, and commenced galloping their horses at -full speed and throwing their sticks at each other like spears, -receiving them on their shields. I believe there is a Turkish game, -called Jerrid, which is much the same thing. Their horses were -wretched specimens--thin, bony screws, that could not gallop as fast -as a person could kick his hat. I asked one of them if he would let me -get up and try the game. So one of my servants asked, "Will you lend -the Feringee your horse?" He said, "The Feringee! oh no," and -galloped away as hard as he could. When we had seen this, we -determined to go and pay a visit to Borum Braswouldeselassie. We found -him just about to sit down to his dinner, and he asked us to join him. -My readers must not imagine a table and chairs at this entertainment, -as the dinner was held in a stable; Borum Braswouldeselassie and his -family sitting on the ground. The first thing they began to eat was -some "tef"--a sort of spongy, sour bread, made in large thin cakes. -This they dipped into a paste of red pepper, and ate it with their -fingers. Borum Bras. had some very good "tej," of which we drank. -There was also some stewed meat, which was broken up in bits by the -servants with their fingers, and then the dish was given to the lady -of the house, who divided the portions equally and handed them to each -member of the family as well as to the guests. The enormous quantity -of bread and red pepper of the most pungent kind which Abyssinians -manage to get through is something extraordinary; they wash it down -with plenty of "tej," which is a capital thing to take away the fiery -heat the red pepper creates in the mouth. The correct thing to do at -an Abyssinian dinner is to take a large bit of bread or meat in your -hand and stuff it into your neighbour's mouth; this is considered the -acme of good manners; also, your first glass of "tej" is generally -handed to you by the master of the house. - -In the evening H. and myself went out shooting, K. having told us that -there were some grouse in the low hills near camp, and I shot at a -young bird, but missed. The old cocks were calling just in the same -way they do on a Scotch moor--the same note, but not quite so strong. -I tried to approach some more, but it was very steep walking in some -places, and the birds were exceedingly wild. - -_Jan. 19._--To-day was market-day at Koudoofellassie, and Brou and -myself, on our way to our next camp, stopped under the shade of a -small tree round which the market was held. The people were coming in -fast with honey and butter, corn of different sorts, sulphur for -making powder, etc. etc. The country folks directly they arrived -squatted down in a line. I tried to buy a jar of honey, but of course -they stuck on the price for the Feringee. About eleven A.M., or -perhaps a little before, I started with Brou for Adgousmou, the next -village we were to stop at. Goubasee, who was my gun-bearer, walked -the whole time in front of my mule; I stopped under a tree for about -fifteen minutes and then went on. This was a long march, and we were -going fast. Goubasee eventually turned out to be, as I had thought he -was, a wonderful walker, always in front of everybody in the longest -march, and never shirking any difficulty that came in his way; in -fact, he was a most faithful and useful servant, the only Abyssinian -among our crew whom I could really depend upon. The country we were -going through was table-land intersected by broad ravines. - -My servants pointed me out two large trees in the distance; near these -they said was the village of Adgousmou. Abyssinian servants have quite -an original way of provisioning as they march along. If they pass any -cornfields, particularly the Indian _gram_, they run into the corn and -take as much as they want, not only for their own eating, but for -their master's mules. This is done regardless of the shouts and -imprecations of the boys who are sent out from the villages to watch -the corn, perched in some places on a high heap of stones, in others -on a rude platform supported on forked poles. This same _gram_, if the -pods when quite green are well-boiled, makes an excellent substitute -for peas. Before going up to the village of Adgousmou we crossed a -stream, where I shot a spurwing and a pigeon very like our common -wood-pigeon, only not quite so large. I killed these birds in case H. -should not turn up after my arrival with the tents, provisions, etc. I -then rode into the village and asked for the chicker. He soon came, -and was a fine-looking old man. I asked him for some bread for my -servants; he said he had none--a reply that was plainly untrue. He -then sent for a bowl of sour milk, which was very nasty. I gave it to -Goubasee, who soon polished it off and seemed to enjoy it immensely. -The old chicker and I sat in silence for some little time enjoying the -view, at least I did, and at length I arose and went away, as I saw no -prospect of getting anything out of the old niggard. I settled the -camp should be near some trees outside the village; a ruined village -also, probably the old village of Adgousmou, was close by. I made the -servants light a fire, and I sat down to consider; but I soon began to -feel very hungry. What was to be done? I had nothing to eat, when I -suddenly bethought myself of my two birds. But how to cook them? I -adopted the old poacher's plan of spitting them on the ramrod of my -rifle, and made Mahomed, the Massowah boy, roast me some corn I had -taken with me for my mule. With these victuals I made a tolerably -fair lunch, washed down with water--_fames optimum condimentum_, as -the Latin grammar says. It was getting late in the day and I was -becoming bored, so I said to Brou, who had been loitering behind on -the road and had not long come up, "We had better go to the village to -forage, as perhaps there has been a difficulty about getting our -baggage carried on from Koudoofellassie, and the things will not come -up to-night." He answered, "Very well." So we all started to the -village. - -I went up to the old chicker's house and asked for bread, or, in fact, -anything that he had. His wife--who was as big a liar as himself--told -me that she had nothing. So I went straight in and took a large jug of -beer and a jar of honey, gave them to my servants to carry, and walked -back towards our future camping-place. The old lady now began to yell, -and the other women of the village joined in chorus. The men in the -village all turned out with spears, shields, guns, sticks, etc., and -surrounded us, making a horrid noise. They managed to get the beer -away from us, but we stuck to the honey, and one of the servants and -myself brought it to the tree where I had been sitting. The natives -continued yelling, and Brou tried to pacify them. Some of the young -fellows said, "We will die! we will die! but you shall not keep the -honey"--Brou having told them I would shoot if they tried to molest -me. The noise went on, and I thought it was likely to get serious, -when suddenly there was a lull, and a priest stepped out from the -crowd and requested a parley with me. I went up to him, and he made me -a bow and said something in Amharic, which it is needless to say I did -not understand. The Abyssinians are Coptic Christians, and I thought I -would try him with a text from the Bible; so I said, "I asked for -bread, and they gave me a stone." I never before saw a man's face -change so completely; Brou had interpreted the sentence exactly. The -priest then said, "You speak like a king; these people are only dirt -in comparison with you," etc. Well, it all ended by my keeping the -honey, and the villagers returning to their houses. We made up a good -fire. Brou produced some bread, which I ate with the honey; it was -excellent--stolen fruit is always the sweetest. I piled the arms near -the fire, rolled myself up in a _shama_ of Brou's, and lay down on a -sheepskin to go to sleep. I had almost dozed off when H. arrived with -all the baggage. The reason he was so late was that the men at -Koudoofellassie demanded exorbitant prices. We have now twenty coolies -and three donkeys to carry into Adiaboo. K. made this arrangement: so -we shall have no more trouble for some little time. Borum Bras. -brought with him a man chained to one of his soldiers; this -individual, who was, I believe, a murderer, was going to the king to -be tried. The law in Abyssinia is the old Mosaic one--"an eye for an -eye, and a tooth for a tooth." - -_Jan. 20._--We started about half-past nine in the morning, -accompanied by Borum Bras., the chief, and all his followers. He was -to go with us as far as the boundary of his province, and there leave -us. He rode a very fine mule, with his horse led in front of him. The -mule turned out to be a fencer; Borum Bras. popping over a thorn hedge -in very good form as we went along. We stopped for a short rest at -Adwahla, a village, and Borum Bras. made his followers bring us some -beer, which is made from the Dargousa grain. I thought it very nasty, -but my servants soon drank it all. I saw a rather curious phenomenon -here: there was a sudden rush of wind, then in a moment we were -enveloped in a cloud of dust. It was one of those whirlwinds which -very often occur in the East, especially on broad plains. There is not -a breath of wind stirring, but, all of a sudden, you see a little curl -of dust coming towards you; and it gets larger and larger as it -proceeds. All the dust of the village was carried up in a column -towards the skies. One of Borum Bras.'s servants, on seeing this, -immediately covered me up in the cotton cloth he was wearing; and I -scarcely know which was worse, the smell of the Abyssinian's garment -or that of the dust. - -All the country we had been travelling through was highly cultivated, -and the ballagas were, as far as I could see, breaking up fresh land -every day for sowing; in fact, I should say that the whole province of -Tigre was in a very prosperous condition. It is a great pity such a -country as this, which to all intents and purposes is close to Europe, -should not be made use of in some way or other. Cotton would grow in -most parts with great luxuriance; it is grown in the province of -Walkait, and brought into the rest of Abyssinia by large caravans, who -exchange it for grain, salt, etc. In the valleys among the hills I -believe all sorts of things would grow, and in a short time I hope to -send out seeds of all the English vegetables, to make a trial of them -at Gindar. There is one plant which would return very high profits to -the growers, and that is _cinchona_, for quinine. Where plenty of -water is to be had I am sure this plant would do well. Of course the -great drawback to all commerce in Abyssinia is the badness of the -roads; in fact, there are no roads, merely paths across the -table-lands, and as a rule among the hills the roads follow the dry -watercourses. - -When Borum Bras. and his servants had had enough beer we started -again. He accompanied us to the verge of this large table-land we had -been going over, and seemed very particular about the exact boundary -of his province and the spot where to leave us. We got off our mules -and said, "Good-bye," shaking hands with him. He wished us a pleasant -journey and abundant sport; and so we parted with the most civil -Abyssinian I had yet met. The ground fell very suddenly here, and we -began to descend a rocky road. If I could only make the reader -appreciate the beautiful scenery that now lay spread before us! but I -am afraid that words would convey but a poor idea of its grandeur and -beauty; so we must continue on our road. Some parts of the descent -were so steep that I had to get off my mule and walk. We had -thoughtlessly omitted to bring cruppers for our saddles, so we often -found ourselves nearly astride of the mule's head instead of his back; -the only way to remedy this was to get off and shift the saddle, which -was tiresome work. K. told me that this was a fearful hill to ascend -during the rains, the mules slipping about and tumbling down. We got -to our camping-place about two hours before sunset--a pretty spot with -plenty of grass, and the water came from deep pools close by. I took -my gun and went for a stroll but saw nothing, and I only heard an old -cock grouse calling. H. had gone in an opposite direction, but he too -had seen nothing to provide sport. - -_Jan. 21._--This morning we had time to look about us before starting; -the township of Gundet lay scattered over the little hills which rose -out of this valley. I resolved to go up to the village and procure a -goat and some bread. K. had provided us with a document which was -stamped with the king's seal; this, when the Abyssinians saw it, had -the effect of making them give what was wanted. The king seldom if -ever gives his seal to any one; and the seal itself, from which the -impression is taken, is carried about hung round the neck of one of -his page boys. I started with Goubasee and Brou for one of the cluster -of huts I saw on the top of the hill; the servants said it was there -the chief of the village resided. The ascent was steep, but we caught -the old gentleman sitting outside his house basking in the morning -sun; no doubt he would have bolted if he had had any intimation of our -coming. We said, "How d'ye do?" and then I showed him the king's seal, -and said we wanted a young fat goat, of which there are large herds -here. The cattle of Gundet are also very fine. He said if we would -come into his house he would talk about it. Well-to-do Abyssinians -always have a large round hut set apart for the reception of visitors. -His son produced some "tej," which was very good, and turning round -to his father just before pouring it out he said laughingly, "I don't -know whether we ought to be drinking this tej, which is made for my -marriage feast." I asked him if his future wife was pretty; he said, -"Oh, yes, and she has plenty of cattle." This is the usual dowry in -Abyssinia, especially among the ballagas; so my readers will see that -people in that country marry for a fortune as much as ours do at home. - -H. and K. now came up to the house. The fat goat was brought and given -to one of the servants to drive before him; and we started for the -Mareb, where we were going to stay a little time to shoot. There was a -difficulty about finding our way, so we took a guide from one of the -villages as we passed. This man did not seem to understand where we -wanted to go to, and took us to another village, rather out of our -road. Here we had a dispute, as a man from this village refused to go -with us as guide; we tied him by his _shama_ to our first guide, and -sent them on in front of our mules. All the women and some of the men -in the village remonstrated and made a great noise, chattering and -yelling to the top of their voices; when I ran in among them and -pushed them right and left. This effectually stopped the noise, and we -continued our journey in peace, while K. was much amused at my -proceedings. - -We passed by Aila Mareb, a village on the side of the hill. This is -the last village before entering the desert, as the Abyssinians call -all wild jungle; that is to say, parts of the country that are not -inhabited. On the right of the path we were travelling along rose a -large hill, with a table-land at the top. The peculiar shape of it -struck me very much; as another ridge rose on the table-land, it -looked in the distance like a vast breastwork. This hill overlooks a -large jungled plain through which the Mareb runs--celebrated at one -time as the abode of a noted "shifter," or robber, who defied the -king's troops for some time and used to ravage the villages lying near -the plain. He was caught at last; and the king said he would not kill -him, as it was a pity to send him out of the world without giving him -time to repent. So his eyes were put out with a hot iron, and he was -allowed to live among his family and friends. This is a good instance -of Abyssinian subtlety and cruelty. - -Our road now lay through thick jungle, and in some parts high grass. -The hills soon ceased, and we found ourselves in the valley of the -Mareb. All of a sudden, on emerging from the thick jungle, we came on -a fallow field; the crop had been reaped, and was stacked close by. -The ballagas living near the valley of the Mareb very often sow crops -after the rains, as the soil by the side of the river is very fertile -indeed. This crop is watched by small boys of the village, to protect -it from birds, deer, elephants, etc., but in many cases the best part -of it is destroyed. The crop, or rather crops--for sometimes they reap -two or three--are so heavy that it does not greatly matter if a little -is eaten. The dry bed of the Mareb was at the bottom of this field, -and thick, impenetrable jungle rose up on all sides, so we agreed to -camp in the open field by the bank of the river. - -I said the river was dry; by this I mean that the water runs under the -sand, and is got at by making a hole, when it gradually filters -through. The water is excellent for drinking, and deliciously cool. I -ordered my servants to make a large hole in the sand, and the water -here I arranged should be kept apart for our own drinking; no one was -either to wash in it or foul it in any way. It is a very good plan -when near a stream to make your servants do all their washing, etc., -down the stream, so as to keep the water as pure as possible for your -own drinking. The time we spent on the Mareb I shall always look back -to with great pleasure. Our little camp was very conveniently fixed. -The jungle here teemed with all sorts of most beautiful birds, -including partridges and guinea-fowl in abundance. The little -sandgrouse used to come in flocks every evening to drink from the -scattered pools along the river-bed. The jungle also gave us most -delicious wild tomatos, and as it was the dry season it had up to this -time been almost impossible to procure any green vegetables, except -the _gram_ before mentioned. These tomatos were very acceptable, they -were the sweetest I ever ate, far better in flavour than our own -cultivated ones; we used to make excellent salads with them, and also -get them stewed. I had felt the want of green vegetables very much, -and I am persuaded that, in a hot country, eating largely of -provisions preserved in tins is not at all good. - -The ballaga to whom the field belonged in which we were camped said a -lion used frequently to come and bask in the sun and look at him while -he was at his work, not taking the smallest notice. There must have -been some of these animals about, as we used to see fresh tracks -almost every day; but, alas! not one single one did we catch sight of -the whole time; and as all sportsmen know who have been in Africa, -there is no animal so hard to discover or get near when seen. The lion -is scarcely the noble beast which is seen represented in pictures, or -read of in nursery books and fables; on the contrary, he feeds on -carrion when he can get it, and sneaks away at the approach of man. -The tiger in India is a much finer animal. In the evening I went a few -hundred yards out of camp down the river, and shot an old cock -guinea-fowl and a brace of small sandgrouse. These latter were most -lovely little birds, and Fisk preserved one for H.'s collection. - - [Illustration: NARROW ESCAPE OF GOUBASEE. - To face page 91.] - -_Jan. 22._--I find, according to my journal, that the events of this -day were most unlucky. I went up the river with Goubasee and the -elephant-hunter that Brou had with him as a sort of servant. I only -saw a deer cross the dry bed of the river in front of me, but out of -shot. I had gone up some little way, and was resting, sitting on some -large granite rocks. The force of the water during the rains must be -tremendous, as these rocks were scooped and hollowed out as if by the -hand of man. A large pool of water was just below me; the hot weather -had not yet dried it up, and the basin of rock prevented it filtering -away through the sand. My rifle lay close by me, and wishing to put it -at half-cock, I touched the trigger without taking it up. By mistake I -fingered the wrong one: it went off, and as nearly as possible shot -Goubasee, who was reclining close beside me. He took it very well, and -the elephant-hunter only laughed, and made a movement as if digging in -the sand with his stick; meaning, if the ball had hit him it would -have been all up with poor Goubasee, and we should have had to bury -him. I got up very much disgusted with myself, and walked over the -rocks on the way back to camp, but on the way I slipped and fell, -denting both the barrels of my little 16-bore. "It seldom rains but it -pours:" these two accidents occurred in the space of about five -minutes. The gun was rendered quite useless by this accident; so I -returned home dejected, and on the way I amused myself by throwing a -spear at a mark on a tree. The two Abyssinians who were with me made -very good practice. It is extraordinary how hard it is to make sure of -hitting anything with this weapon, though the mode of throwing it is -simple enough. The spear is held in the right hand, not over the head, -but about in a line with the shoulder; lightly balancing it one takes -three steps, starting with the left foot, and delivers the spear as -the right foot comes to the ground. King Theodore was a celebrated -spear thrower; it is said he could make sure of a man at thirty yards -or more. On my way home I was puzzling in my mind how to get the -dented barrels of my little gun straight again. I had some hardened -bullets with me for my rifle, which fitted this gun exactly, and I -thought if one of these bullets was introduced into the barrel and -gently and gradually tapped with one of our wooden tent-mallets it -might straighten it. When I got to camp I told Fisk what I thought of -it; he said he would try, and being a very handy fellow and -understanding guns well, the experiment proved a complete success, -and the gun shot just as well as it did before. Of course the dents -were not completely obliterated, but sufficiently for all practical -purposes. I must not forget to say the barrels had been injured about -half-way down from the muzzle. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - A WART-HOG -- "BRUNDO" BUTCHERING -- AN "ETON BLUE" BIRD -- - BABOONS -- DESERTED VILLAGE -- ROUGH WALKING -- THE ABYSSINIAN - ADAM AND EVE -- JEALOUSY -- THE PRIESTS -- SAVAGE CUSTOMS -- - TAMARISK COVER -- NATIVE SPORTSMEN -- DANCING AND SINGING -- WANT - OF A DOG -- NEWS OF A LION -- RED POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS AND THEIR - EFFECT -- "BORROWED PLUMES" -- THE JUNGLE ON FIRE -- WE STEER - WEST -- "BLACKMAIL" -- SUMMARY JUSTICE. - - -_Jan. 23._--I started very early this morning, before sunrise--or with -the "morning star," as the Abyssinians say--and went down the river to -see what sport I could find. It was so cold that I rode out of camp on -my mule, wrapped up in an Ulster. Directly the sun rose it got warm, -but up to that time the air was very piercing. After going down the -river some little way we came to a large field of Dargousa corn: here -I stopped, and leaving my mule in care of one of the servants, -determined to walk over some of the hills on the right bank of the -river and see what I could find. Goubasee, my gun-bearer, was very -anxious to stop and warm himself at a fire which two of the ballagas -had made in a sort of hut, which was built to live in during the time -that the corn was ripening and that they were thrashing it out. These -natives slept in the hut, and guarded the corn at night from the -inroads of wild beasts. I told Goubasee to come on and not lag -behind--as after it gets hot in this country one never sees any game, -for all retire to the thick jungle. I walked up a steep hill, and soon -came, at the top, on a broad level plateau. Part of this plateau was -cultivated; the rest of it was short, dry grass, which reached up to -the knees. It looked a very likely place for game, especially pigs or -deer. I made Goubasee and another man I had with me spread out and -walk through the grass, in the hopes of "putting up" something; but we -saw nothing there. Where the grass ceased there was a rocky, stony -piece of ground, with short, stunted trees growing on it. All of a -sudden, by the side of one of these little trees, I saw a fine old -boar standing. He looked steadily at me, and I looked at him--we were -both very much taken by surprise, as I almost came on the top of him. -The colour of this animal is so much like the dried-up ground that it -is very hard at first to discern. H. had lent me his Express this -morning, so I fired and hit him behind the shoulder. He galloped off, -and was circling round towards me, when I gave him the left barrel, -which caught him just behind the ear; he rolled over like a rabbit, -and lay with his legs kicking in the air. He turned out to be a -wart-hog. We skinned him and took off his head, which I have kept. -Goubasee, while the operation of skinning was going on, cut off large -lumps of the quivering flesh and stuffed them into his mouth; he -seemed to enjoy it very much. Nearly all Abyssinians eat _brundo_, -which is their name for raw meat, and in consequence of this they are -all affected with _taenia_, or tapeworm, and have periodically (I -believe once a month) to take a very strong purgative medicine, which -they call _coussou_. This destroys the worm for a time, but it always -reappears again. By reason of this, nearly all Abyssinian men are very -hollow-cheeked, and some of them exceedingly thin; but, -notwithstanding this, their powers of marching long distances over -their hills with very little food is something marvellous. - -When we had skinned the wart-hog and taken away what we wanted for -food, we hung up the carcase in a tree. Before going any farther I -wish to recommend all sportsmen who go out to wild countries to learn -a little butchering before leaving home; it is most useful not only to -know how to cut up a beast, but also to know the different parts of -the animal, their names, and what to reject and what to keep for -food, and how to remove the parts from the carcase. Almost any -afternoon at the slaughtering-houses of the live meat market near the -Great Northern Railway, London, the butchers may be seen killing, -skinning, and dressing for the dead meat market, both mutton and beef, -and for a small gratuity they are very ready to give any information. - -I sent home one of the servants with the skin and the head, and went -on to look for more game with Goubasee. I saw in the distance a rather -curiously-forked stick, as I thought; it was just over the top of the -grass. I never suspected for an instant that this was an animal, so -did not attempt to stalk in any way, but walked straight on. To my -great surprise, however, I saw a beautiful, light red-coloured deer -lying just at the edge of the dry grass near an open space. Of course -when the animal saw me it jumped up and bounded away at full speed; I -took a snap shot--and missed. This is a good instance of how difficult -it is when one first goes into a strange country to distinguish game, -for it is some little time before the eye gets accustomed to the -strange scenery, and the ear to the unfamiliar noises and sounds that -are heard in a wild jungle. The forked stick, as I thought it, was the -two little pointed ears of the deer. I now walked round this small -plateau, and determined to make for my mule and go home to breakfast, -as it was getting hot. H. as well had been out in the morning, and had -seen a large herd of Hagazin or koodoo, but could not get near them. -There was a very beautiful bird to be seen in this jungle near the -Mareb, in shape like an English cuckoo, but of a very lovely light -blue; as most of my readers will know the tint of Eton blue, it was -almost exactly that colour. We shot several specimens, which Fisk -preserved. I had seen, the evening before, a pair of wild geese in a -pool down the river, so I went out to try and get a shot at them. I -told K. that I was going to shoot them both at one shot if I could; he -said, "They are a great deal too shy, you won't get near them." I went -down the river, when, lo, I saw my two friends swimming about in a -small pool. I fired at them with my 16-bore No. 1 shot, killing the -gander outright. The goose flapped on a little way, and I thought I -had not got her, when Goubasee, who was with me, rushed off down the -river, having heard a faint cackle in the distance, and came back with -the goose in his hand. It was very lucky that the bird made any sound -at all, as it was nearly pitch dark. I came back to camp triumphantly -with my two geese, and the next evening we had them roasted and -stuffed with onions--they were excellent, and were among the few -things in Abyssinia that I had tasted really good. - -_Jan. 24._--I started very early indeed this morning--in fact, by -moonlight--in order to get on the ground where I thought I should find -game, before the heat arose. The day before, I had seen a -conically-shaped mountain lying north of where I had been shooting. -Instead of leaving my mule in the cultivated ground near the river, I -turned up a path on the right bank of the river, and rode some little -way into the hills. I left my mule on a little eminence just below the -edge of the table-land which I had shot over the day before, and -walked on towards the mountain. I saw nothing but tracks of deer till -I got nearly to the top, and it was a very steep climb indeed. On a -little open space just below the summit of the mountain I saw some -jungle fowl pecking; they were not in the least like the Indian jungle -fowl but brown-looking birds; in fact, they had the same colour -throughout, and exactly the shape of little bantam hens. Unluckily, I -had not my shot gun with me, as I would have given much to have shot -one of these little creatures; but they ran away into the jungle in a -long file, and I did not see them again. I now made for the summit of -the mountain. There was a small, thickly-wooded hollow just below -where I was climbing, and I thought very likely there might be -something lying in it, so I picked up a stone and rolled it down, when -out leaped two of those mouse-brown deer that I had seen at -Sellaadarou; they rushed away through the jungle, and I could only get -a snap shot at them, but managed to hit one of them. I then climbed to -the top of the mountain, on my way towards which, I had heard a great -number of baboons chattering among the rocks, but when they saw me -they all scampered away. - -At the top, to my great astonishment, I found a small level plateau -and the ruins of a village; the circular walls of the huts were still -standing, and broken pottery was lying about in all directions. This, -most likely, was one of the villages that the robber of the Mareb -devastated, of whom I have spoken before. What struck me most was how -and where the villagers got their water, as the country round here was -particularly dry; they must have gone to the Mareb for it, which was -at some distance. I searched all about the mountain in hopes of -finding a spring, as I was very thirsty myself, but there was no such -thing to be seen. I was a little tired with the climbing, so, getting -under the shade of one of the ruined walls, I curled myself up and -went to sleep for nearly an hour, Goubasee squatting close by, -watching me like a dog. When I awoke the sun was high, so I thought I -had better go home to breakfast, and went down the opposite side of -the mountain to that I had come up. I saw my mule like a speck in the -distance, and made straight across country for it, much to the chagrin -of my gun-bearer, who wished to go by a path which lay rather out of -the straight line. It was a heavy walk, as the jungle was very thick; -in fact, in one patch of thorns I found myself completely suspended. -My face and hands were torn, but at length I reached my mule, feeling -very fatigued, as the walk had been a long one. When back in camp I -arranged that K., together with Cassa, one of our head servants who -had charge of our transport arrangements, should go on to Adiaboo with -our heavy baggage, and that we should change our camp some little way -down the river in order to shoot over fresh ground. I went out of camp -in the evening, and a little way down the river I heard a great rush -in the jungle on the bank. My gun-bearer said it was a lion, when I -sat down and waited for some little time, but I could hear no sound, -nor could I see anything, so I went home to dinner. - -K. and I after dinner, over the camp-fire, were talking of the -Abyssinians and their religion. He said that their version of the -"fall of man" was rather curious. It was this: Adam and Eve, who lived -in a beautiful garden, were happy and contented, till one day the -serpent came and said to Eve, "Where is Adam?" She answered, "He is in -another part of the garden." So the serpent sneeringly said, "Oh, -indeed, do you think so?" Eve rejoined, "For what reason do you -sneer?" The serpent replied, "You think yourself the only woman in the -world?" and she said, "Yes, and a most beautiful woman." The serpent -then said, "Adam often stays away from you, does he not, now? I will -show you another woman;" on which he produced a looking-glass. Eve saw -her image reflected in it and immediately became jealous. The serpent -then said, "If you wish to secure Adam's love for ever and ever, you -must eat of the fruit which I will point out to you." So came about -the fall of man, according to Abyssinians. This is quite consistent -with Abyssinian character and ideas, as probably no people are more -vain or conceited than they; jealousy in all things is one of their -chief failings. Abyssinians, in their religion, are great bigots, and -the whole country is very much at the present time under the influence -of the priests. The king himself is very particular about his -religious observances, and priests and monasteries are very often -richly endowed. The Abyssinians' hatred of the Mussulman is extreme. -They have always looked upon the Egyptians with great abhorrence as -well as terror, for already part of their country called Bogos has -been annexed by them. They think that the Mussulman will try and -overrun the whole of Abyssinia, and, according to events that are now -taking place, this does not seem at all improbable. - -An Abyssinian is thought a great deal of if he goes to Jerusalem, and -they always think that the Turk is going to destroy the holy places -and sweep away the relics that are kept there. - -It may not be known to some of my readers that the Queen of Sheba is -supposed to have ruled over Abyssinia, and at that time the country -was evidently a great deal more prosperous and civilised than it is -now. Elephants are said to have been used as beasts of burden; -nowadays, the natives have not the smallest idea of taming this most -useful animal. There exist large ruins of palaces both at Goujam and -at Gindar, which testify to the wealth and magnificence the country -originally boasted of. It seems to me a great pity that a country -which is comparatively so near Europe, and with a good seaboard, -should be so completely lost to the world. What few Abyssinian chiefs -I saw always impressed upon me that we, the English, ought to come and -live in the country. They had formed, I am sure, a great opinion of -England's wealth and power from what they saw and also heard of the -Abyssinian expedition. I was told at Massowah that an enormous -quantity of material of different sorts, that had been left behind -after the war, quite made the fortune of a tribe that lived on the -coast; for they sold all these materials at Massowah to the Egyptian -government. It forcibly struck me, while travelling over these fertile -lands, what an extensive field there is for British industry and -enterprise. Abyssinia contains considerable mineral wealth; but -whether it is sufficiently localised to make its working remunerative -remains to be discovered. I tried to get some information on this -point from the French bishop of Keren, who came down to Massowah with -us, and he told me he thought that minerals were not to be profitably -worked with the present means of transport. K. often assured me that -he had seen unmistakable evidences of gold. If once there was a gold -rush to this country, it would certainly open it up in a way; but the -experience of other countries makes one doubt whether such would prove -a desirable commencement to civilisation. - -Very often on riding into the village I was greeted by the Mussulman -salutation of "_Salaam_," and they always asked my servants if I was a -Mussulman. It was explained to them I was really a Christian, at which -they were much astonished. All the priests in Abyssinia that I -happened to meet I found to be very sensible fellows; in fact, they -are the only educated members of the community. They dislike European -missionaries for the reason that the missionaries educate the people, -which education the priests endeavour to check as much as possible. -There is a country much nearer home than Abyssinia which was, up to a -short time since, much in the same state; in fact, that expression of -"priest-ridden country" may be applied to Abyssinia with as much force -as it used to be applied to the Sister Isle. - -Before I go farther, I must mention that at this camp we killed a cow -for the benefit of our coolies and servants, who ate it raw. K. had -done this while we were out of camp, so I did not see the squabble -which ensued. The bits were shared out equally, but one of the men -complained, said his quantity was short, and he threw it at the man's -head who was dividing the portions. Then a general row ensued, and -they might be seen running about the camp tearing lumps of raw flesh -out of each other's hands and cramming them into their mouths to get -rid of them as quickly as possible, much in the same way as a pack of -hounds would break up a fox. When an Abyssinian sees or scents raw -flesh he becomes a perfectly wild savage; and the women eat _brundo_ -as well as the men. - -_Jan. 25._--In the afternoon, H. and I started down the Mareb, -intending to go a short way and then pitch our camp. We followed the -bank of the river, but it was very deep walking, as the damp sand -gave way under the mules. I very nearly got bogged, only just -slipping off my mule in time, and directly the weight was off his back -he recovered himself. The banks of the river, on both sides, were -fringed with tamarisk bushes, which form a thick cover, a favourite -one in India for tigers. We fixed our camp at the place where the -Zareena joins the Mareb; at this time of the year--that is to say, the -hot weather--the Zareena is a beautiful running stream, and the water, -the servants told us, was considered excellent. We pitched our tent on -the shingly bed of the Mareb, and I amused myself, with the help of my -gun-bearers, by getting firewood for the night, as Fisk and the -luggage had not come up yet. On the way here we passed some -Abyssinians sitting in a small bower, made of branches, which was -constructed over a water pool. They had come down from the villages to -hunt--that is to say, to squat over the pool watching in turns, night -and day, for any animal that might chance to come and drink. I do not -think they killed much game, and they seemed to spend most of their -time smoking a pipe, a rude sort of hookah, with a cocoanut as the -receptacle for the water that the smoke passed through. - -This evening I assembled our servants and coolies and induced them to -give us a dance and song in their own fashion, I accompanying them on -my banjo which I had brought with me. The dancing was rather curious: -all stood round in a circle singing a monotonous chant and clapping -their hands; one stood out in the circle and went through -extraordinary contortions, throwing his body backwards as far as -possible and then twisting quickly round. In one part of the dance -they all squatted down and wriggled their bodies about, making a sort -of hissing noise with their teeth. I requested Brou to translate the -words of the song, which were, "Plough, ploughman, plough, nor turn -your attention to merchandise;" this meant, of course, stay at home, -till your land, and lead a quiet life; do not seek other riches in far -countries. It was repeated over and over again, like most Eastern -songs; and they would have gone on all night, I believe, if we had -allowed them. - -_Jan. 26._--I went out in the morning at daybreak and saw literally -nothing but a dik-dik. There are vast quantities of partridges amongst -the tamarisk bushes, which Fisk shoots for the pot with great success. -I always regret not having brought out a dog of some sort or other, as -dogs are always useful for retrieving birds. I frequently came across -the tracks of koodoo, but never saw one. H. told me, when he came back -to camp, that he had "rolled over" a deer, and, on running up to -secure him, the animal staggered away amongst the high grass and -jungle and was lost. This was very bad luck, as it was the first deer -he had hit. I went down the river in the evening, a very beautiful -walk; the Mareb wound in some places among rocks, in others through -thick jungle. I stopped to rest for a short time; a little gazelle ran -out and crossed the river bed a little way off. I shot with my -muzzle-loading rifle, and missed. This was another chance gone for the -Express. I found when I got back to camp that some natives had been -in; in fact, they were the sportsmen whom we saw in their hut beside -the pool. They told us that a lion, a month ago, had killed a man and -eight cows, but this was not of much use to us now. Why is it in all -sport, whether hunting, shooting, or fishing, you hear that you ought -to have been there the other day, or else it is too early--you ought -to have come later; the ground is very hard, or the scent bad; the -birds are still wild; or else, when you go fishing, the water is -thick, or the fish are not on the feed, etc., etc.? - -_Jan. 27._--I went out this morning with two of the native hunters who -had come into camp the day before. We wandered over the hills, but I -did not succeed in shooting anything, and only saw two gazelles -scouring away in the distance. On the table-land, where I found these -gazelles, there was a very singular cavity in the rocks, just on the -edge of a cliff; it was almost as if it had been hollowed out by the -hand of man; it was oblong-shaped, and it could easily have held two -or three hundred people. The day was very hot, and the sun beat down -on the dry rocks, so I made the best of my way down the steep side of -the hill into the bed of the Mareb, which ran underneath. On the way -home I fired at a white eagle with my rifle, and picked him off the -top of the tree he was perched on, but the bullet had so injured the -bird that he was not worth preserving. This was really a bad morning's -sport. H. had done no better than myself; and it was a good deal owing -to this that we determined to move off the next day. This afternoon I -presented the hunters, who had been out with me, with three common -cotton pocket-handkerchiefs, of which I had bought a good many at -Bologna, in Italy, on my way out. They seemed to be delighted with -them, and grinned and laughed, and passed them round for each other to -admire. - -After luncheon, H. and I determined to ride down the Mareb and explore -that line of country. We had not gone very far before we saw our -friends the hunters sitting round a small pool of water, then tying -the handkerchiefs round their heads and admiring themselves, using the -water as a looking-glass. They looked very ridiculous, and seemed -highly delighted with their personal appearance, which they evidently -felt was greatly improved by the red cotton handkerchiefs. We rode a -good way down the river, and the farther we went the fewer the little -pools of water became: at last there was no water to be seen, the sand -had gradually absorbed it; and we should have to dig four or five feet -in order to get water here, so it would be of very little use to go -down into the jungle by this route. H. and I amused ourselves by setting -fire to the jungle, in hopes of starting some animal, but we saw -nothing and so turned our mules' heads towards home. It is interesting -in this country to see, while jungle is burning; this it is always doing -during the dry weather--the number of birds--insect-catchers--hovering -over the flames and catching any flies, beetles, or butterflies, that -happen to be driven out of the grass and bushes by the smoke and heat. - -_Jan. 28._--To-day we started at 8.30 for Adiaboo. We went up the bed -of the Zareena for a short way and then turned off sharp to the right; -this will be better understood by my readers when I say that, after -turning to the right, we began travelling very nearly due west. The -road was merely a jungle path, and the bushes were in some places very -thick, which scratched our knees as we pushed through them. Sometimes -we rode up the dry bed of a watercourse, at other times we struck -right into the thorny forest of mimosa bushes. At last we came to a -more civilised part of the country, and halted in the bed of a small -river called Maitumloo, where at some deep pools the cattle were being -watered by the boys of the village, who were minding them. Here we -stopped for about half an hour, watering our mules and resting -ourselves; we then made for the village of Zadawalka. We did not -actually go straight up to the village, but camped in the usual -camping-place for travellers who go by this route, that is to say, -close to the water, of which there was a large pool here. We pitched -our tent on a little ledge just over the pool, where there was barely -room for the tent and the camp fire. We had got in early this -afternoon, having come along at a pretty good pace; Petros and Hadji -Mahomet had happened to lose their way in the jungle, and did not come -at all that evening. - -Our coolies that we had brought from Koudoofellassie, had, as is usual -with most blacks when they travel, brought very little food with them, -for when natives go a journey it is usually a succession of forced -marches, which they manage to do with wonderfully little nourishment. -They were all seated at the pool, having washed off the dust of the -journey, talking and chattering, when there appeared in sight some -villagers, who Brou, the interpreter, told me were returning from a -funeral feast. Of course the coolies understood very well the state -of affairs. The natives at feasts in this country not only eat as much -as they can, but also contrive to take away with them what they cannot -manage to cram down their throats; so here was a prospect of a good -meal for our coolies. A rush was made at a batch of small boys and men -who were returning, their clothes were almost torn off their backs, -and the bread and "tef" which they had concealed about their persons -were seized and devoured by our hungry men. This was the first batch -of visitors, and our men were in anticipation of more coming. At last -some more appeared, this time bearing a large earthenware jar, which -was thought to contain beer, but, alas! it was empty. There were other -natives that our men thought had some bread with them, and they -accordingly hustled them, but found none. During the struggle, a -coolie was pushed backwards into the muddy pool, and was rather -astonished to find himself seated in the water, much to the amusement -of ourselves and all the servants but himself: he sneaked back and sat -down by the fire to dry the few rags he had on him as best he could. -Three or four more villagers came by, among them two young -Abyssinians, who said, "You have been robbing our people--you will see -what we will do to you to-morrow!" I think they were a little the -worse for the "tej" and beer they had been drinking, as they boasted -and were very impudent. At last they got a little too "cheeky," -saying, "You are a Rass" (which means a lord, in Abyssinia), "and -ought to know better than let your servants do this." This rather -annoyed me, so I jumped across the stream, snatched one of the sticks -out of their hands, and gave them two or three cuts across the back, -as hard as I could, and told the interpreter to tell them that was the -way a Rass was accustomed to treat people who were impudent; so they -went away rather frightened, amid the jeers of the servants and -coolies. - -My readers may think this was rather a summary proceeding, especially -as our servants had been robbing the people of their bread; but it is -a thing always taken for granted, as people are supposed to be hungry -when they are travelling, and those that were robbed took it as a very -good joke, and laughed and chaffed, especially when they were searched -and found to have no victuals of any description concealed on their -persons. My grey mule, which K. gave me at Gindar, had a sore back, -and I was afraid he would only just be able to take me into Adiaboo, -where I should have to give him up and get another. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - A LONG MARCH -- A NATIVE GARDEN -- COOLIES AND THE WAY TO TREAT - THEM -- MARKETS -- A BATTLE-FIELD -- COOL SHADE -- "THE FIRST - POST" -- SHIELDS AND SPEARS -- JOHN -- POTATOES -- SILVERSMITHS - -- A NEW FRIEND -- COOLIE SQUABBLES -- AN APPEAL -- DONKEY BUYING - -- SHOE-MAKING -- A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF OUR ROUTE -- SOURCES OF - THE TACKAZZEE -- MARRIAGE FESTIVITIES -- I TURN SURGEON -- A - MUSICAL PARTY -- MY REPUTATION AS A DOCTOR. - - -_Jan. 29._--To-day we made a very long march, in fact, the longest we -had made since we had been in the country. We started at 7 o'clock in -the morning, leaving the village of Zadawalka on our right, and we -struck across the table-land in front of us, which was intersected by -a large ravine. The scenery on the table-land was lovely, and the -streams became more frequent. Towards the middle of the day we reached -a very extensive plain; in the distance might be seen the high-peaked -hill which marks Adiaboo. It is just below this, and in the shade of a -large tree, that the market of Adiaboo is held every Saturday. The -principal village on the plain was one called Sememmar. We got off our -mules and went to forage among the houses for some honey; and the -natives sold us a large gumbo, or jar, full of honey, for a dollar. -They were very civil, but, as usual, our servants amused themselves by -purloining as many little things and eatables as they could lay their -hands on. We agreed to camp by a stream which was a little way on, and -where the table-land ended, called Maihumloo. The descent down into -the little valley, or ravine, was very pretty, and when we got down to -the bottom the country was almost like a pleasure-ground, rills of -trickling water ran across our path, and various shrubs bearing -sweet-smelling flowers grew in every direction; it only wanted neat -gravel walks to make it the most perfect of gardens. We fixed our camp -by the side of the stream. Any future traveller would know the spot -very well, as a white-faced rock rises up from the stream, with bushes -growing over it. - -An old lady in the village had asked me if I should like to buy some -Dargousa spirit; I told her if she liked to bring it down to our camp -that I would purchase it. Accordingly she followed us down and -produced two bottles of this native spirit, which I thought would be a -good thing to give to our coolies, as they had had an exceedingly long -march and were completely done up, and when we halted they most of -them lay down unable to move. One of them was utterly exhausted, and -said he was dying. I imagined it would be a good idea to serve them -all with honey, of which they are very fond, and accordingly I made -them come forward, and gave them each a large handful of honey. -Directly the dying coolie heard that this honey was being given he -appeared to get wonderfully better, and jumped up and came for his -share. He had given a good deal of trouble on the march and always -lagged behind, calling on the other coolies to carry his load; so I -said he was not to have any, and I did not give him any. These natives -have to be treated like children in every respect. I had arrived at -the place where I fixed the camp a little before H., and, hearing some -wild geese cackling up the stream, I took my gun and went to try to -bag one of them for dinner. I fired at them and missed. Not many -seconds after firing H. appeared from behind some bushes, and we -discovered we had both been stalking the same geese. It is very lucky -I did not pepper him. He seemed a little annoyed; but this sort of -thing very often occurs when two fellows are shooting together in a -wild country. I went out by myself afterwards to try and get some -partridges, as I heard a few calling to each other near camp. I -managed to kill a brace, and they proved very acceptable food after -our long and tedious march. - -Half-way on our journey here we came to the market-place of Sememmar; -the market is held in a sort of hollow dell by the side of the path -that we travelled along. It was a very picturesque sight looking down -on the market, the people seated round the sides of a hill like an -amphitheatre. Of course we got down to inspect the wares offered for -sale: beads, needles, buttons, were among the articles, as well as -antimony for blacking the eyebrows and eyelashes of Abyssinian ladies. -There was also a good deal of cotton and grain for sale. The only -thing I purchased was a native sword, which cost a dollar, and which I -handed over to Goubasee, my gun-bearer, to carry for me. This sword -was made, like some of the Indian tulwars, of very soft iron, but -sharpened like a razor. Its shape was well adapted for cutting, -slightly curved, and the back of the broad blade was heavy and thick. -The worst part of an Abyssinian sword is its handle, which is made of -wood, with no guard whatsoever. Generally, when a native goes into -battle, he ties the handle of his sword round his wrist with a piece -of rag or handkerchief. There is also another description of sword -which they carry. This is a much lighter one, and very much curved, -even more so than a Turkish scimitar. I had no opportunity of seeing a -native use the sword. What they seemed to excel in most was throwing -the spear. - -_Jan. 30._--This morning we did not start till much later, as the -whole of the party were rather knocked up by the march of the day -before. The country was very lovely that we travelled through. The -path rose until we found ourselves on a very extensive plain: as we -travelled over it, one of my gun-bearers pointed out a place, south of -the route we pursued, where the king of Abyssinia had had a great -battle with the Gallas, on which occasion three hundred of the Galla -horsemen rode over a sheer precipice, nearly every one of them being -killed. I trotted on across the plain towards Adiaboo, and the large -peaked hill appeared nearer and nearer. I forgot to say that, before -we started this morning, I managed to bag one of the wild geese which -we had seen, and stalked unsuccessfully, the night before. These birds -are most excellent eating, and they and the partridges are nearly the -best food in the shape of game that is found in Abyssinia, but the -guinea-fowl are nearly always tough. - - [Illustration: OUR CAMP AT MASSOWAH. - To face page 118.] - -It was market-day at Adiaboo, a much larger affair than at Sememmar -the day before, and a considerable gathering of people were here, all -chattering and making a great noise, it being the busiest time. I -asked some of the bystanders where K. was, and where our camp was -pitched. They pointed a little farther on, and I soon saw K.'s tent -and a "das" built close by. A das is a sort of bower made of boughs -which Abyssinian servants in a very short time put up. It is made of -four tall forked poles; over these are laid boughs which are again -interlaced with other boughs. It makes a delightfully cool shade for -the middle of the day, and we always used to live in one when we were -in camp during the day, but of course we slept in our tent at night. A -"das" was very necessary here, as there was no shade to be found for -some distance round. K. was very pleased to see us. He had come a -shorter route, and his party had almost lost their way and been very -hard pressed for water. He said he had been very ill on the journey, -and scarcely able to ride his mule. The black sheep that, my readers -will remember, we had made a pet of was completely worn out, and was -carried, the greater part of the journey, by one of the servants. - -K. had told me that Rass Barea, the chief of Tigre, had written to the -chief of Adiaboo to say that hunters were to be placed at our -disposal, and that men were to accompany us down into the country -where elephants and other large game were to be found. Adik, the chief -of Adiaboo, was in camp ready to pay his compliments and to ask us -what we wanted. He and his followers all sat on the ground a short way -off, with their shamas thrown across their shoulders and covering -their mouths; this is always considered, in Abyssinia, a most -dignified position. Here we found letters from home waiting for us, -which of course we were very pleased to get. Any scrap of news from -his own country and friends, to a traveller quite out of the march of -civilisation, is a great luxury. H. had not come in when I arrived, as -I had gone on rather fast in front of him: there were also letters for -him, so I took them and walked a little way out of the camp to meet -him with them, and never saw anybody so delighted; in fact, we were -both in the best of spirits. After I had read the letters, I asked K. -to come round the market of Adiaboo with me to see the people, and -also to look if there was anything worth buying. - -The large tree, mentioned before, was the centre of attraction, and -those who brought horses with them had them tied up under the shade of -the tree. The tree was hung all round with shields, some for sale and -others belonging to the owners of the horses; as every Abyssinian, -whenever he goes even the shortest way from home, always takes with -him his shield and his spear--just in the same way as an Irishman -carries his stick. I bought two shields for five dollars; one I gave -to Goubasee, my gun-bearer, and the other to Guyndem, my second -gun-bearer: they both seemed mightily pleased and proud, and said they -would take the greatest care of them. The shields were made of the -skin of a species of large deer; they were thick and tough. The old -merchant from whom I bought them was a very communicative person; he -had a large silver ring on his finger which I admired; he very kindly -took it off, and said he would give it to me. I, of course, said no; -but, as he still pressed, I said, well, I would pay him a little more -for the shields--which arrangement he seemed to agree to. The rest of -the day we spent in reading our letters and discussing the contents of -all of them, and also in writing others in return, as there would be -no chance of sending messengers to the post after we left Adiaboo. - -A man named John--at least that was the name he went by--had come into -our camp from Adowa; he was said to be the son of an Englishman who -had been in the country some time before. He stood about six feet two, -and would have been rather good-looking but that he was marked with -small-pox. He brought a very welcome present to us, and that was some -potatoes. These vegetables are only grown near Adowa, as it is only -within a few years that they have been introduced into the country, to -which they were brought by a Frenchman, whose name, we hope, will be -as immortal as that of Sir Walter Raleigh. The potatoes were very -small, in fact, wretched-looking things, but were excellent eating; -and we were very glad to get them, as we had been excessively hard up -for vegetables; in fact, we had had scarcely any since leaving -Gindar. John said he would go down into the jungle with us. The only -words of English he knew were, "How do you do?" and "Good morning," -which he uttered whenever one addressed him. His trade was that of a -silversmith, in Adowa, which I am told is a very lucrative one, as -dollars are given to make into silver ornaments, such as the -decorations of a shield, etc., and then as the dollars, which are -already of rather base metal, are mixed with a good amount of tin, by -the time the ornaments are made there is not much original metal left -in them. Mansfield Parkyns, in his very entertaining book on -Abyssinia, gives an account of the silversmiths at Adowa. One of the -young chiefs at Adiaboo, a relation of Adik the old chief, also said -he would go down into the jungle with us and help us to hunt. This -young man was about eighteen or nineteen, and was accompanied by a -sort of bear-leader, a much older Abyssinian, who, in fact, had been -his tutor all his life--a man named Barrakee. This old fellow was -chief of a small village on the frontiers of Abyssinia, and close to -the Baria tribe. Some part of the Baria country is supposed to belong -to Abyssinia; and Barrakee told us that he actually received tribute -of wild honey and other small things from the Baria. This man played a -very important part during the rest of our journey; and, when the -young chief left us while we were on the Tackazzee, he chose to stay -behind to help in the hunting and to guide us through this part of the -country, which he knew very well. - -_Jan. 31._--To-day we killed a young cow in camp, and also paid our -coolies who had come from Koudoofellassie. The coolies, after they had -been paid, could not agree upon the division of some extra money that -had been given them--in fact, the man who gave the most trouble about -it was my old friend who had shammed ill while travelling up to our -last camp. They all came to me to settle the dispute; and, after one -party had arranged themselves on one side, and the other party on the -other--the latter consisting of only one--I heard the cause of -dispute. It was very clear that the coolie who had shammed ill wanted -to get the best of his friends; so, as most of the rest were against -him, I said, "Two heads are better than one--and you must give up your -claim." The men in whose favour the decision had been given went away -shouting, laughing, and dancing about; the beaten party retired rather -crestfallen. I asked if any of them would volunteer to come down into -the jungle with us. There was one young fellow among them who had -always been first on the march, and when in camp always singing and -laughing. I particularly wanted to get him as a servant; but he said -he had a wife and family and could not manage to come. After a deal -of persuasion I got one of them to stay, a man named Philookus. I -think most of them thought that they had had enough of marching, and, -if the marches in future were to be anything like the two former ones, -they were quite right in turning back. - -It is a great mistake, during travelling in rough countries, to force -your marches; it not only tires yourself and harasses your coolies, -but also wears out your beasts of burden, a most important -consideration. The Italian proverb, _Che va piano va sano_, is daily -exemplified when you are away from civilisation and railways. The best -method is to start early in the morning, make a short march, and then -rest during the heat of the day. After everybody and all the beasts -are well rested start again, and get into camp in good time before the -sun goes down, so as to get everything comfortable and snug for the -night. By the bye, one is very much struck, on first arriving in the -East, by the astonishment with which the natives receive an -Englishman's protestations that he is in a hurry--that he must go on -at once. I believe Arabs have a saying, in the spirit of which they -certainly act, that "haste is devilish." - -A number of little sand-grouse, early in the morning, had come -circling round the tent and settling on some ploughed ground close to -us; I went out and killed a brace and a half. These little birds are -very good eating, one part of their flesh being white and the other -brown. We agreed to-day that here at Adiaboo we should buy donkeys to -carry our things down to the Tackazzee, so we told the chief to get us -as many as he could. He said that to-morrow he would tell the people -round to bring in what donkeys they had for sale. I went out in the -evening into the marshy ground which lay below our camp, to try to get -some snipe; I only saw one, but he was too far off for a shot. We had -a very good dinner to-night, for we had killed fresh meat, which we -were very glad to get, as the two days that we had been travelling we -had had very little with us, although K. had made every preparation -for us, and boiled down some excellent jelly, which he had corked up -in a few empty gin-bottles and carefully placed in H.'s tin-case among -his clothes; but, whether it was the heat or the shaking that the -tin-case got on the journey I do not know: when we opened it, in order -to take some jelly for soup, we found that the corks had flown out of -the bottles, and a sort of mayonnaise had been made of H.'s socks, -boots, and trousers. Such are the pleasures of rough travelling! - -_Feb. 1._--To-day we began buying donkeys, and a more disagreeable -task I had never had to do; such haggling and bargaining as had to be -undergone was enough to drive one mad. They brought up the donkeys -sometimes singly and sometimes in pairs; we had on an average to pay -six dollars a-piece for them, which was a great deal too much. This -included the pads on which the package was strapped, and also the -"mechanias," or leather thongs which strap the baggage on. The only -thing to be assured of in buying donkeys is that they are not -suffering from recent sores on their backs; and a very good way of -testing their strength is to put both hands in the small of their back -and to press down with all your weight: a good donkey's back will -yield very little, but a bad one cannot bear it at all. Cassa, the man -who had charge of our transport arrangements, helped me greatly in -buying the donkeys. The very minute I bought one and paid for it I -marked it by clipping a square patch on its rump with a pair of nail -scissors: this was quite enough for all present purposes. The great -difficulty was to make the natives bring the pads and straps, as -without them of course the donkeys were perfectly useless. We here -employed some servants in making sandals for themselves out of -cow-skin that I had bought at Deevaroua; in fact, most of them asked -me to allow them to make some, as the paths through the jungle are -very thorny and stony, and not like travelling through the cultivated -fields of Tigre. Plowden Gubrihote, H.'s gun-bearer, was shoe--or -rather sandal--maker to the rest; he had been, when a little boy, -servant to Consul Plowden, who was murdered in South Abyssinia, and he -was a capital servant, but rather cowardly. - -In the evening Barrakee, the young chief's tutor, proposed that we -should go up to the top of a high-peaked hill close by, and see the -country we were approaching. We rode up some distance, and at last had -to get off our mules as the way became very steep. Certainly a more -glorious view I never saw. To the north-west we could see the plains -through which the Mareb runs, and to the south-west were the mountains -among whose gorges that splendid river the Tackazzee flows; beyond the -Tackazzee to the west, in fact in front of us, might be seen two -mountains, one of which is of a very peculiar shape--these mark the -province of Walkait. On the top of one of these mountains is a fort or -stronghold which cannot be reached except by ropes--no human being can -climb up to it. Due south of where we were standing lay crowded -together that mass of mountains called the Siemien range, the tops of -which, the natives informed us, were covered with snow the whole year -round. This I cannot vouch for, as I certainly did not see any at that -time; and I almost think, if there had been snow, it would have caught -the rays of the setting sun, and it could have been seen quite -distinctly. The Tackazzee rises in the Siemien from springs; at -least, this I think and believe is the case, on the authority of an -old servant we had with us, called Hadji Mahomet, who came from that -part of the world. As we looked below us we could see the inmates of -some huts that were clustered round the mountain engaged in -celebrating a marriage. All the company were assembled in a large -"das," or leafy bower, drinking and dancing, and every now and then a -shot would be fired off in the air in celebration of the auspicious -event. As I looked towards the distant view which lay before us I -little thought that on my return journey I should be as anxious to get -home as I was then to explore those regions. We waited till the sun -set behind the mountains of Walkait, and then came down the hill and -made for camp. - -H. and I very much wished, before leaving the country, to try and get -some black leopard skin, and some of the silver-mounted shields which -are made at Adowa, and which are carried by the great chiefs of the -country. K. said that if we wrote out an order and sent it to Adowa it -would be attended to. I wrote out a couple of orders, one for the -black leopard skins and the other for the shields, and we both signed -them and got John to transcribe them into Amharic. While I was writing -them he remarked that English writing was very quick and very -different from writing Amharic, in which every letter has to be formed -separately, in the same way as when we "print" with a pen in English. - -Whenever we were in camp for two or three days in one place it was -invariably the custom of the natives to bring their sick to be healed -by the white men, or else to beg for medicines. They even on one -occasion brought a cripple, carried in a sort of frame: I suppose they -expected me to perform a miracle. On the present occasion a man came -into camp with a large sore, about the size of the palm of one's hand, -on his shin; he had evidently had it for some time, and the wound was -covered with cow-dung, for what reason I do not know. I told him to go -away and wash his leg and come back to me with it clean. I then -consulted with Brou what was best to be done in the case. I had no -caustic with me, so I determined to cauterize it with boiling grease. -We had saved some fat from the cow we had killed; I took a portion of -this, put it into a pan on the fire to boil, and I informed the man -what I was going to do, and that it would hurt him a great deal, but -that if he liked to let it be done he might. He said, "Do what you -like; I do not care." The grease was very soon melted and bubbling; I -took it off the fire and was going to apply it, when the servants, who -were looking on with interest, thought it was too hot, and that I -should hurt the man too much, so I let it get cold a little and -poured it on to his leg. He did not seem to feel it, nor did he wince -at all; so I said that would not do, and that next time I should give -it him boiling hot. I put the pan on the fire again, and when next I -poured the grease on, it fizzed and crackled in the same way that -bacon does; but the most curious part of the operation was that the -man, who a person would have supposed would have almost fainted with -pain, only winced, much in the same way as people may be seen to do -when they have had a tooth drawn. - -It is difficult to explain this; but it is the case, that all the -black races will endure many surgical operations of the roughest sort, -but directly strong medicine is given them it seems to kill them at -once. I made the man pour a little milk over the wound, gave him five -rhubarb pills to take, and told him to go and lie down in the shade. I -did not hear afterwards that he had died, so I think he must have -recovered. I may as well tell the reader that I had a most excellent -medicine-chest with me, and was very well provided with almost -everything that was necessary. These are the different descriptions of -drugs the chest contained:--A good quantity of quinine in two-grain -pills, rhubarb pills, chlorodyne, a sedative solution of opium for -diarrhoea, Warburg's fever tincture, spermaceti ointment, lint -bandages, scissors, needles and silk for sewing up cuts, &c. But, -notwithstanding all this provision of remedies I managed to get most -terribly ill; indeed one might have a whole chemist's shop in one's -possession, but, without proper food and comforts, all would be of -little use. - -Barrakee, who I believe was somewhat of a musician, was very anxious -to hear me play on the banjo I had with me, so I got it and began -playing: he and the young chief listened for some time, and then -remarked that it was very like Shangalla music. The Shangalla, or -Baria, are the nearest tribe of negroes to Abyssinia. Barrakee then -sent for a sort of Abyssinian guitar, on which he commenced making a -monotonous noise, and thus ended this rather eventful day. - -_Feb. 2._--All to-day I was engaged in quarrelling over the prices of -different donkeys which were brought in. In the morning H. -successfully stalked a flock of pigeons that had settled on the -ploughed ground close by, and managed to bag five of them with two -barrels. All game is very acceptable, as it always makes an addition -and variation to what provisions are in hand. We calculated that we -should have to buy twenty donkeys; we had very nearly succeeded in -getting that number, but two more were wanted to complete the set, and -these could not be got either for love or money. At last a priest -appeared who was with great difficulty persuaded to lend us his two -donkeys until we could manage to buy from the neighbouring villages -two for ourselves. - -This afternoon I thought I would show the young chief the use of the -sword which I had bought in the market at Semmemar, and so, asking him -to let me look at his own, I showed him the common one I had -purchased, at which he seemed rather to sneer. We had got the best -part of a goat in camp, and I hung up the hind quarters, with part of -the back attached, on to a rope stretched between the two "dasses" -which had been built for us. The sword was very sharp, and I managed -to cut this piece of the carcass right in half. I then asked him if he -would do the same, but he said he could not. I rather suspect he would -not, as he was very proud of his sword, and probably thought that -cutting a goat in half would not be a deed worthy of such a weapon. I -then cut off another piece for his edification, and also to try to -induce him to show off, which, however, he refused to do, and -eventually retired to his followers and Barrakee, no doubt to talk -over what the Feringee had done, and wonder why he had done it, and -what was the use of the feat. - -He came to me again in the evening--this was another instance of -native imagination of the power of the white men to heal and -cure--and informed me, in a mysterious tone, that his mother had been -mad for some years, and he wanted some medicine to cure her. I with -great difficulty explained to him, through the interpreter, that it -was impossible for us to cure madness, and that in our country we had -asylums, or houses for mad people, set apart. I said that anything I -could do to alleviate suffering I should be most happy to attempt. He -seemed a nice young fellow, for in the evening he brought us some -thick cakes made of maize, which he said his mother had sent us. These -were very good and excellent eating, as we had been living on "damper" -and Peek and Frean's biscuits, which are very dry. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - DONKEY ROBBERIES -- REPRISALS -- A FRIEND IN NEED -- POSTMEN -- - APOLOGIES -- A THIEF SURPRISED -- IN SEARCH OF A MILLER -- THE - WAY TO GET WATER -- A SWIM -- ARRIVAL OF MY RIFLE -- CUSTOM-HOUSE - -- ELEPHANT-HUNTING -- HINTS ON COSTUME -- FIRESIDE TALES -- HOW - TO PRODUCE FIRE -- AN EPICURE -- HARTEBEEST AND GIRAFFES -- - JUNGLE FIRES. - - -_Feb. 3._--I find I began my rough journal to-day with these words: -"At last we leave this beastly place, where all has been quarrelling -and bargaining." I certainly was heartily sick of it, and glad to get -away, and so I think were most of us. To make matters worse, before we -started, the servants came and told us that four of our donkeys were -missing, two that the priest had lent us and two that we had bought. -At this we were furious. H. and I both agreed that we would not stand -this sort of nonsense, and we went to K. and told him that we thought -it was disgraceful conduct on the part of the chief, and vowed -vengeance on the old sinner. K. tried to pacify us, and said the -donkeys would turn up in time. - -Certainly, to say the least of it, it was very annoying, especially on -the point of departure. We called our servants together and went up to -the ballaga's house where the donkeys had been put for the night. The -young chief evidently thought we had hostile intentions, as his -followers might be seen running in front of him taking the sheaths off -the points of their long spears. When we got to the house we took up -our position just outside the low wall which surrounded it. - -The young chief was close to a house not many yards off. I sent word -to say that, if the donkeys were not immediately forthcoming, we -should burn down the man's house and take what goods and chattels he -had there. I went in and took a large jar of honey and an enormous -pumpkin as a sort of security till the donkeys came. At length the two -donkeys we had bought turned up. We then demanded the other two which -the priest had lent us. The Abyssinians said, "They are not paid for;" -to which we replied that he would not sell them to us, but that he -promised to lend them, and that, if they would not give them up, we -should do what we had threatened. - -Before going on I may say that we had letters to send to the post, and -it was important they should start that day, so as to catch the -steamer which runs every three weeks. As we were now at loggerheads -with the chief, it would have been difficult to get him to give us a -messenger for so long a journey; but Brou helped me out of this -difficulty. He had a friend among some Mahomedans who lived not far -off, and he told me that if I gave him the letters they would be given -to the head-man of the Mahomedan village, and that he would insure -their being sent to the coast. Brou made all the arrangements, and I -did not, as usual, see the messenger myself and make him swear that he -would carry the letters safely. It eventually transpired that they -reached their destination all right; and in fact we found, all through -our journey, that the Mahomedans were a great deal easier to deal with -in business, bargaining, and arrangements, than the Abyssinians. - -I went down into our camp to get the letters and send them off by -Brou, and when I came back I found K. and H. were rather bored with -sitting there and waiting. K. had been inclined to take the -Abyssinians' part; he said it was one of the usual events of -travelling in such a country, and we should not make a great fuss; -this annoyed us still more. At last the donkeys were brought and all -was made right. I returned the jar of honey that I had taken from the -house, and I was going to return the pumpkin, but K. said, "I think we -had better keep this," a remark that amused us very much, as he had -previously been all for the Abyssinians, and now he was quite ready to -take the native's pumpkin. These pumpkins make a very good dish, -boiled in water with a little sugar. It is wonderful on occasions of -this sort how "'cute" one gets at foraging for food. To-day was the -only time, during our whole journey, that I saw a snake. I just caught -a glimpse of the reptile as he wriggled away among some corn sheaves; -he was yellow, and almost of the colour of the corn. - -In consequence of the "row" about the donkeys, we could not start -until next day. The old chief, Adik, came to say good-bye to us. He -had never, all through the time of our stay at Adiaboo, been half so -civil as the younger native, and the servants felt unanimously that it -was owing to him that the donkeys had been taken; so I intimated that -I would not say good-bye or take any notice of him unless he -apologised for all the trouble he had given us. I had put it very -strongly to his relative, the young man, and told him, in so many -words, I did not think he had behaved as an Abyssinian chief ought to -behave to Englishmen, when they came to pay a visit to his country. He -said at first that he would not apologise, but at length, towards the -evening, he came up and said he was very sorry for what had happened, -and he hoped we should have a pleasant journey and lots of sport. - -_Feb. 4._--This morning we really did make a start, although we had -great difficulty in getting away, as we had fresh servants to look -after the donkeys, the new men did not know the nature of the -packages, and every donkey-load had to be made out separately by -Cassa. We did not go very far this march, but camped near a little -village called Adikai. The people were very civil, and directly the -young chief, who was with us, told them to put up a "das," they did so -at once. The only little event which rather disturbed the harmony of -the scene was one of the natives attempting to snatch away one of our -mechanias. I happened to see this, and, running up to him, gave him a -push that sent him clean head over heels, and I told him to let our -things alone; the people who were looking on all said that it served -him perfectly right. - -There was a wedding going on at this village--in fact, I believe this -was the time of year during which most of the weddings in Abyssinia -take place--and the arkees, or groomsmen, who during the week the -wedding is held go about the villages stealing what they can lay hands -on in order to give to the bridegroom, came and danced before us. It -was the same sort of dance that our coolies had entertained us with on -the Mareb: one stepped forward and went through various contortions, -and then, at one part of the dance, they all sat down and clapped -their hands, making a hissing noise. The young chief said if we would -give them a dollar they would be very pleased; so we presented them -with one, and they went away delighted. We had bought a quantity of -corn at Adiaboo for food for our servants in the jungle, but we could -not manage to get it ground at Adiaboo; the young chief, however, said -we should be able to do so in the villages as we went on. He came to -us in the middle of the day and said, "I cannot make the ballagas -grind your corn; you must go through the villages and make them give -you an equal weight of flour in exchange for your corn." The reason -why he could not make the ballagas of the nearest village grind the -corn was that the village belonged to the Monastery of Debra Bizen, -which my readers will remember was situated on a high mountain that -overlooked the little valley of Gindar. The priest of the village said -that the young chief had no power over these people, who paid tribute -to the monastery. We went into the village and said that we must have -some flour, and that we had brought corn to exchange for it. We sent -our servants round to the different houses to fetch the flour, while a -priest, a nice-looking old fellow in a green turban, looked on to see -that we did not take more than was right. From one of the little -hamlets, to which I went to look for some flour, all the inhabitants -ran away, and clustered on a hill close by, looking at Brou and -myself, who had walked up to the houses. We ascertained the folks had -just been at their meals, and Brou, who declared that he had eaten no -breakfast that morning, sat down and demolished the remaining victuals -which he found in the hut. We took what flour we wanted and left corn -in exchange. One of the servants who accompanied me to carry the corn, -wanted as usual to steal something, but I said I would not allow that, -and he must leave the things just as he found them. - -As we came back with the flour that we had exchanged for corn we met -the arkees, and Brou said to them, "Do not go up to those houses and -steal the things while the people are away, and then say that we did -it!" This was quite right, as these gentlemen were hanging about, and -they would most likely have made a clean sweep of everything they had -found, and then have said that the Feringee had taken them. Let me -recommend to travellers, when camping near a native village, to watch -for a long string of women, who generally bring up the water from the -nearest stream. Usually your servants have plenty to do without going -to fetch water: the best way is to take the water from the women, -empty it into your own vessels, and let them go back and get more for -themselves. This we did with great success at Adikai, and none of our -men had to go and draw any water at all. Some trifling present soon -put the women in the best of tempers, but I really do not think they -minded the water being taken from them, only they were terribly afraid -lest their jars should be broken. Most of them, when robbed, began -laughing and chaffing our servants. - -The next day we went on to the village of Azho, and camped in the dry -bed of a stream, in a field where the Dargousa corn had just been cut. -Our camp was below a high plateau on which this large village was -built. It is the frontier village, and after this you meet no more -habitations till you come to the province of Walkait, which would be -from this point about eight days' travelling on a mule. I had gone on -in front to fix the camp, and found some of our donkeys, which we had -sent on early in the morning, waiting for us there; by-and-by the -whole caravan came up, after which we enjoyed a very pleasant swim in -a little pool in the river. This is a luxury which anybody travelling -in a hot country will thoroughly appreciate, as it is impossible to -take a bath with you while travelling in this sort of way; and we had -to do most of our washing in a chillumchee.[11] The young chief and -some of his followers came and begged some powder and bullets: we gave -them some bullets but very little powder; as it is always dangerous -to give natives powder when they are likely to be with you, because -they might turn your enemies, and it would be adding insult to injury -to be shot with your own ammunition. - -The messenger who had brought our letters from home to Adiaboo -informed us that he had passed some men on the road who, he believed, -were bringing some guns and ammunition to us. Here at length was some -news of my long-looked-for Express rifle, and also my heavy rifle. I -had intrusted the carriage of the gun for us to the missionaries who -live at Ailet, and Mr. Lager, the head missionary, said he would -arrange that everything should be forwarded just as it was passed into -his hands from the authorities at Massowah. Sure enough, about noon -the next day, when we were lounging about camp and doing nothing--in -fact, waiting for the guns--I heard a shot on the other side of the -river, and very soon a short little Abyssinian appeared, dressed in -European costume, followed by some natives carrying a box and also -some other cases. I was very much amused at his firing the shot, as he -strutted into camp with an air of great importance, and feeling, no -doubt, that he had accomplished a great task. The shot was to give -notice of his presence as he came along. I never was more pleased in -my life; the guns had arrived just at the right moment, and all were -uninjured and in as good order as when they had left the gun-maker's -shop in St. James's Street. The little fellow who had brought them all -this long way was an Abyssinian that the missionaries had reared and -educated. He said he had had great difficulty in getting along, and -one of the coolies, having fallen sick, had stayed at a village on the -road. The first thing we did was to give them plenty to eat and drink, -such as we had; we then squared accounts with them, and they were to -go back home the next day. Most of this day was spent in unpacking the -ammunition and guns; they seemed to be all right. To-morrow we were to -start for the Tackazzee, and to leave all traces of civilisation, of -any sort, behind us; while we were in the highest possible spirits and -our prospects were of the brightest. - -That evening I walked out and went up to the village of Azho to see -what it was like: on my way there I "put up" some quail, but I did not -fire at them. Azho is a large straggling village built on a high -plateau, without any shade in or near it. Some of the natives showed -me the way up a steep hill, where I had another view of the country we -were going to, and I came back when it was quite dark, having seen a -most beautiful sunset over the hills. H. thought I was lost, and was -very nearly sending out to look for me. The country we had been -travelling through from Adiaboo to Azho was very lovely, and the sides -of the low undulating hills were highly cultivated. I have no doubt, -in the valleys, the natives reaped a rich harvest. The village of Azho -itself was a good specimen of Abyssinian dwellings; the people seemed -well-to-do, and the houses carefully and neatly built. There was a -custom-house here, where cotton from Walkait and other distant -provinces paid tribute. Before I go on, I must say that the transport -of my guns from the village of Ailet to where we were at Azho cost 46 -dollars, and the coolies considered themselves well paid. - -_Feb. 6._--I started off, before H., with a guide to show me the way, -but we chanced, somehow or other, to lose our road, and I was greatly -annoyed. This march I did on foot, as my grey mule, which had a very -sore back, had to be left behind at Adiaboo. K. procured me another, -but it was a sorry brute, and always kicked when being mounted, so I -got rid of it. After wandering about some little time in the jungle, -trying to find our way, we at length hit upon the path, and saw some -of our own donkeys, under the care of Hadji Mahomet, travelling along. -We were to camp at a place called Maidarou, the usual camping-place on -this road for all caravans. There were two very large trees close to -the pools which supplied us with water, and we were very glad of -their shade after the march of the day. For myself, I was rather -tired, and was not in very good working condition, having through most -of our marching been riding a mule. After having lunched we pitched -our tents on the flat top of a little rocky hill which just overlooked -the two large trees that formed the great feature in this -camping-place. On my road here I shot at a gazelle, but, unluckily, -the man who was carrying my Express rifle was some distance behind, -and so I could only fire at it with my little 16-bore gun with a -bullet. The next day we were to come to a place called Coom-Coom-Dema. - -This is the head-quarters of those Abyssinians who come down to hunt -elephants, for the young Abyssinians, that is to say the gentlemen of -the country, think it part of their education to come here to shoot -elephants. There are regular ivory hunters, who live at Azho and the -villages near, and these go down to assist. The young Abyssinians who -seek to distinguish themselves shoot at the elephant with small shot -or slugs, just enough to draw blood, and then it is left to the -Neftenias, or hunters, to finish him off with bullets. Their mode of -hunting is rather curious. When they see the elephant, of course they -stalk him with great care: two lines are made; the first line, on -coming up to the elephant, fire and take to their heels as quickly as -possible. If the elephant is wounded, he very often charges, and then -meets the second line, who receive him with a greater number of shots; -they then follow him up, if badly wounded, and despatch him at their -leisure. The Abyssinians are, as a rule, bad sportsmen, and seem to me -to be totally unacquainted with the commonest rules of wood-craft. I -would recommend all sportsmen who hunt in a wild country to adapt -their dress as much as possible to the colour of the landscape in -which they find themselves. I always shot in brown cord breeches and -flax gaiters, with a good cumberbund[12] round my waist, and a -short-tailed coat, which was made of strong cotton stuff that I bought -in India. - -All the servants with us, as well as the followers of the young chief, -were in a tremendous fright because of the Baria, the negro tribe of -which I spoke before, and who came up to this part of the country to -hunt the elephant, and also to kill whatever Abyssinians they could -find. I myself never saw one of these redoubtable natives, nor do I -believe they would attempt to attack a well-armed party; but in the -evening, over the camp fire, many terrible stories were told of how -So-and-so was murdered, and how cunning and treacherous the Baria -were. Brou, the interpreter, was not behindhand in telling us all -sorts of terrible things about them. One story he told us was this: -There was a man who lived in a village close to the frontier, and who -had to pay tribute to the chief of his province in ivory. He had gone -down to the desert, or jungle, to hunt the elephant alone; a wily -Baria following him most of the time. It should be stated that this -tribe of natives have no fire-arms, and only hunt and destroy with -spears and knives. The elephant-hunter was stalking an elephant, and -had come up to him; at the moment he fired, the Baria, who had been -sneaking after him, jumped up from behind, drove his knife into him, -and killed him. This is a good example of their treachery; but the -Abyssinians are just as much to blame in regard to the Baria or -Shangallas, for whenever the Abyssinians catch them in much smaller -numbers than themselves they generally kill them. - - [Illustration: A WILY BARIA. - To face page 147.] - -_Feb. 7._--H. went on in front to Coom-Coom-Dema: I said that as it -was early I should shoot over part of the country and join him later. -I went away into the jungle, which lay south of our camp, and came -upon some old elephant tracks. I had not gone very much farther before -I saw some gazelles; I managed to get near one of them, and, as it was -racing away on the side of a little hill, I rolled it over with my -Express. My gun-bearers very soon skinned it, and they having -succeeded in lighting a fire, I said they might eat some of it. The -way an Abyssinian hunter makes a fire in the jungle is this: he takes -some of his powder and rubs it on a bit of cotton cloth which he tears -off the clothes he is wearing, and then wraps up a percussion cap in -the cloth and hammers the cap between two stones till it explodes; -this ignites the dry cloth, and with the help of some twigs and grass, -and by blowing very hard on the smouldering cotton, he manages to -light a fire. It is wonderful how natives under the most trying -circumstances will kindle a flame where no European would think such a -thing possible. - -My gun-bearers were soon roasting the hind-quarters of the gazelle on -the ashes, and also eating some parts of it raw. I was sitting down -under the shade of a tree, and heard Goubasee behind me munching -something; I turned round, and was much disgusted at seeing him eating -the stomach of a gazelle, which was not in the least washed, and in -fact was a filthy sight. This is considered a great delicacy by -Abyssinians, especially when the stomach is covered with the green -undigested food of the animal. After we had all rested, and they had -eaten sufficient, we tracked back on our old path, and soon struck the -regular caravan road. I thought it would have been a long walk, but, -to my astonishment, the hills opened and I saw in front of me a large -plain--this was the plain of Coom-Coom-Dema. H. had pitched the tents, -and everything was ready and comfortable. Just after we had lunched, -one of the servants said that he could see on the plain some large -deer, which he called _tora_; they were in reality hartebeest. They -were going down to drink from the pool where we got our water, but -directly they saw us they trotted off. Some gazelles got up as we were -walking along, and I fired and missed, so did H. There were tracks of -buffalo all about our camp, but they were very old, having been made -during the rains. Barrakee, who had undertaken the sporting -arrangements of the party, said this was a very good place for game, -but we determined not to stop here, but to press on to the Tackazzee, -the goal of my ambition. - -_Feb. 8._--This morning we were almost awakened by the noise the -little sand-grouse made in circling round and round our tents. I got -up and brought down two brace of them, as they wheeled round -attempting to settle on some ground close to our camp. It was rather -pretty shooting, as the birds came very fast, and I only wished that I -could have had some more of it, but the rest of the pack soon got -frightened and went away. After this we packed up our traps and left -Coom-Coom-Dema. On the road, Barrakee, who was riding a large white -horse, pointed me out a herd of giraffes about half a mile off. I -attempted to stalk them, but did not succeed in getting near them. -They went off at a slight ambling pace, and when once they had crossed -the little hill, on the near side of which they were feeding, I could -not see them again. Fisk had come with me, and we were both very -anxious to kill something. I shot at some sort of deer, but missed, -and on my way back saw a gazelle, at which I did not fire. - -When I came back to the road, completely parched with thirst, as it -was very hot, I found that all our donkeys had stopped: this was very -vexing, as my great object was to get on now as quickly as possible. -Brou said the donkeys were very heavily loaded, that the day was hot, -and that there was no prospect of getting water between where we were -and the Tackazzee. This was simply untrue; for when I found Barrakee -and talked to him upon the subject, it turned out that there was water -farther on; so I immediately made them reload the donkeys and push on. -Barrakee fixed our camp by the edge of a dry river-bed, in which there -was left a large pool of water, and there were tracks of elephants -having drunk here some time previously. We cleared the high grass from -the jungle and pitched our tents, after which H. went out shooting, -but did not get anything. When it was dark we saw jungle fires in the -distance, which our servants all said had been kindled by the Baria to -burn us out. This, of course, was all humbug, or they had nothing -better to talk about. The place we camped at was called Kourasa, or -the house of the long-tailed monkey, and this water-hole which we were -camped by, Barrakee told us, is a regular drinking-place for -elephants; he added, with much mystery and fear, that perhaps they -might come in the night and trample on our camp. I only hoped they -would! The natives assured me that we should find the Tackazzee next -day; and, accordingly, in the morning we started, H. having gone on in -front with the young chief. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[11] _Chillumchee_ is an Indian word for a flat-bottomed tin basin. - -[12] _Cumberbund_ is an Indian word for a thick scarf which is wound -round and round the waist; it is a great preventive against sunstroke -and chills. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - THE FOREST -- THE TACKAZZEE AT LAST -- A FORD -- AN UNHEALTHY - CAMP -- HIPPOPOTAMI -- A RAFT -- ON THE ELEPHANT TRACK -- IN - SIGHT OF GAME -- A LION AND A MESS -- BIVOUACKING -- BEGINNING OF - MY ILLNESS -- GUINEA FOWL -- WE TURN HOMEWARDS -- "THE BLUES" -- - RAFT-BUILDING -- A CARAVAN -- ELEPHANT AGAIN -- A BIG FISH! -- - NEWSPAPERS -- CHANGE OF QUARTERS -- THE GAME OF "GALANIFT." - - -_Feb. 9._--To-day I was to take charge of the heavy baggage and -donkeys; this we generally took it in turns to do. I caught H. up at a -river, where I found them all drinking. He went on directly, and I -stopped for an hour to rest our twenty-one donkeys and their drivers, -and to let them have something to drink. The country we were -travelling through had changed; we were at a much lower level than we -had been before, and dome-palms grew in every direction, the shorter -and younger ones of which made a thick jungle which we pushed our way -through, the leaves causing a great rattling as we went on. This was -much more my idea of an African forest than anything I had ever seen -before. I saw a hagazin on the side of a hill near me, and tried to -stalk it. I got so close to the animal that I could hear him making a -peculiar grunting noise close to me, but for the life of me, in the -thick jungle, I could not make out where he was. I moved on a little -farther, and then I saw him trotting away in the distance. Elephant -tracks were to be seen in all directions crossing the main path along -which we travelled, and fresh elephant dung was here in quantities. - -I travelled on through the forest and came upon the party of the young -chief, who was waiting for me by some water, H. having come across -elephants and gone after them. I asked the little chief why he had not -gone with him to hunt elephants; he said, in the most polite way, that -he was staying behind to wait for me. I thanked him, and determined to -push on again and make the Tackazzee that day. Mahomet, one of the -coolies, or rather donkey-drivers, that we had brought with us from -Adiaboo, volunteered to act as guide. I pushed on as quickly as -possible, and, about half-past four in the afternoon, the servants -pointed out the Tackazzee. There, sure enough, was a broad river below -me, running between high rocky hills, with its waters gleaming in the -setting sun. I was standing several hundred feet above it, and on the -left of me, on the same side on which I was, was a green jungle of -grass and tamarisk bushes fringing the bank of the river. A large -herd of hagazin had just been drinking, and they were moving quietly -away, the males leading and the hinds following with the little fawns -trotting at their feet. The whole scene was really a beautiful one, -and I stopped for some little time to admire the view which lay before -me. The natives had pointed out the antelope to me, but I was too -excited to take any notice, so I gave them a view-halloo, and told the -guide to lead me to the bottom of the hill where the river ran. When -we got down into the green jungle which fringed the bank of the river -it was so high we could not see over it, and pushing on through it, we -soon found ourselves on the shingly bed of the river. The water was -beautifully clear, and I gladly drank a draught of it. We then forded -the river with some of the more lightly-laden donkeys, which had -managed to keep up and follow me. Goubasee, on his arrival at the -other side, held up his hands and exclaimed, "God has brought us -safely here!" I was so pleased to see a large river again that I took -off my boots and paddled about in the water, for almost the last -fresh-water stream of a good size I had seen was the one on which the -Citizen penny steamers glide. - -We had brought down two cows from Adiaboo with us, and these animals -were very nearly swept away by the stream, where they would have been -devoured by crocodiles. The man who had charge of them lost his head, -and became very nearly as frightened as were the beasts themselves; at -last some of the servants rushed into the water, got below the cows, -and drove them back to the bank they started from. They then attempted -again, and crossed in safety. I fixed the camp amidst a large grove of -dome-palms; a prettier place could not well be imagined. The ground -was perfectly flat; in fact, as if it had been thoroughly stamped -down. There was a beautiful shade of a large leafy tree close by, but -unluckily, as is often the case in Eastern climes, where the scene is -of the loveliest the place is most unwholesome; and, as proved -afterwards, most of us, myself included, fell ill, which I believe was -a great deal owing to our not having fixed our camp on one of the high -hills that overlooked the river, instead of down in the river-bed. -_Experientia docet_, and, as my readers will see afterwards, I paid -dearly for what little experience I gained in rough travel in this -country. - -I heard, in a pool below the ford where we had crossed, some animals -making an unusual noise, grunting and blowing. I went down with my -gun-bearers to the edge of the river, and, behold! there were eight -fine hippopotami disporting themselves in the river, much in the same -way as the old river-horse at the Zoo may be seen swimming about his -tank. They reared themselves out of the water and exposed their heads -and part of their necks, sometimes opening their enormous jaws so that -I could see their white tusks. I fired at the nearest of the herd, and -hit him behind the ear. He began bleeding profusely, and waltzed round -and round in the water, causing tremendous waves. At last in about -half an hour he sank, and we saw him no more. I shot at several more -and, I believe, killed another, but we saw no traces of them again; -and I think it is a great chance, in a large rapid river of this sort, -if their carcases are found at all. I sent servants during the -following days up and down the river, but they were quite unsuccessful -in finding any trace of the beasts. H. did not come in till late, -having gone after an elephant he had wounded. He told me they had -found large clots of blood on the animal's track, but that he had to -give up as they were getting far away from our line of march and from -any water-pools. Cassa arrived very late with the rest of the donkeys. -He assured us that one of the Baria had fired the jungle in a circle, -and so had tried to surround him and some of the more heavily-laden -donkeys which had lagged behind. This was quite believed by all our -servants, and it made a great impression on some of them. - -_Feb. 10._--To-day we rested most of the morning. In the afternoon I -went down to the pool where the hippopotami were, but they had got -much more shy, and showed only just the tops of their heads and their -wicked-looking little ears above water. As one opened his jaws I hit -him smack in the mouth; this sounded just as if a bullet had gone into -a stack of faggots. He sank immediately, and I could not in the least -tell whether I had killed him or not. As these hippopotami had got so -shy, I commenced to-day, with the help of Brou, to make a raft on -which to try and go down the river to them. Some of the dome-palms had -fallen down from old age and from the effects of the floods that sweep -by during the rainy season; I proposed to lash these together with raw -hide, but I had nothing except a hand-saw to cut the logs the proper -length, and the palm wood was very hard and the weather very hot. - -_Feb. 11._--We had arranged with Barrakee to go for three days and -sleep out, or bivouac, and hunt elephants; we accordingly started -straight inland towards the mountains of Walkait. After we had crossed -the hills, under which the Tackazzee ran, we came upon a sort of open -plain with little hills cropping up here and there, and we had been -following fresh elephant tracks the whole time. I must not forget to -mention that during the night a large herd of elephants had passed -close to our camp, and that all the jungle round was trampled and -broken in every direction. I just remember, in a half-sleepy state, -hearing strange noises, but I thought at the time that it was only the -"hippos" disporting themselves in the pool below. At last Barrakee, -who was going in front, said that we were getting very close to the -elephants, and that we must leave our mules behind us, and follow them -up the rest of the way on foot. Not long afterwards we saw two -elephants in the distance moving slowly along. We tried to stalk them, -but we did not succeed. Barrakee took us to some water, where we -drank, and close by which, as we came up to it, were some pigs lying -asleep under a tree. An Abyssinian tried to knock one over with the -butt of his gun, for we did not like to fire, being so close to the -elephants. - -After we had halted for a little time and rested ourselves, Barrakee -said we should move on, and he took us to the top of a steep little -hill, where he said we were to pass the night, and from whence we -could see the whole country round us. Brou, and a couple of men that -Barrakee had with him, built us a "das." We ate some luncheon, and -then we sat down to watch for any elephant that might perchance be -about. We had thus waited for about an hour when Barrakee leaped up -and said he saw two elephants in the distance, so we got our guns and -went off to stalk them. The elephants were walking towards the south, -following the main body of the herd which had passed very early in the -morning. Our object was to cut them off on their way, and Barrakee led -us sometimes over the low hills, and sometimes round the sides of -them, and we gradually approached nearer the two elephants, who were -moving along swinging their trunks about, and sometimes stopping to -pick off a bit of a shrub which looked more dainty than the rest. At -last there was only one little hill for us to go over, and to cross it -would bring us right across the path of the two elephants. We were -creeping along very quietly when, as we came to a few rocks, where, in -the rainy season, a torrent evidently poured down, Barrakee stopped -suddenly and said, "Ambasa!" which is Amharic for lion. I snatched -hold of my Express, rushed up and saw a fine male lion moving slowly -away among the rocks. At the moment I was going to fire, H. came up -and fired his heavy rifle close behind me; both barrels went off at -once, and I thought at first I was shot, as nine drams of powder is -rather a large charge to be let off close to one's ear. I missed the -lion; so did H. I loaded again and ran after him and fired, and -missed. The elephants, which were not more than forty or fifty yards -off, went off in another direction, and the lion, passing through -some trees, "put up" a herd of large deer which went also in a -different direction. It was a sight grand enough, but we had made a -terrible mess of the whole thing: we ought not to have fired at the -lion, and, as the servants said, "If you had killed the elephants, -plenty of lions would have come to pick the bones." I may tell my -readers that the lions in Abyssinia are not like the familiar picture -that is everywhere to be seen of animals with enormous manes, as the -species in this country have no mane at all. We then walked back to -the little hill whereon we were to camp that night, all of us -disappointed and crestfallen. The whole of the top of this hill was -covered with the most beautiful sweet-smelling grass, and of this we -gathered a large quantity to make our beds. I had arranged with one of -our servants to bring out my little camp bed and blankets, but, as we -went away from camp rather quickly, following up the tracks of the -elephant, the native lost his way, and I had nothing to cover me but -some sacking, which the medicine case was wrapped up in. That night we -slept very comfortably and warmly, as the grass made a capital bed. - -_Feb. 12._--This day we moved away on the track of the herd of -elephants. The jungle became denser, and Barrakee halted us by a -beautiful stream of water, and pointed out a hill close by, where he -said we should camp that night. A little river that we were near was -full of small fish, and I amused myself by trying to catch some of -them by damming up a part of the river, but I did not succeed. After -luncheon I went up the stream, and found Barrakee and H. seated on a -rock engaged in trying to catch some fish; one of them with a crooked -pin, and the other with the only hook we had in camp. Amongst us we -managed to lift three out of the water; these I cleaned and brought -them back into camp for dinner. After catching the fish we took a most -delicious swim in the pool. That night, unluckily for me, there was no -grass to be found, and I borrowed a blanket from Brou, but, foolishly, -instead of covering myself up with it, I rolled it up and used it as a -pillow. I caught a chill in the night, and in consequence, found -myself suffering from severe diarrhoea in the morning. From this day -date all my troubles, illness, and misfortunes. It certainly was very -unfortunate, as we had only just got into the country where the game -was really to be found. - -This only shows how particularly careful one ought to be when leading -a life of this sort, and especially when sleeping out in the open air. -A good thick flannel belt should always be worn next the skin. What I -really believe gave me this chill was that I took off the cumberbund, -which had been wound tightly round my waist, in order to sleep more -comfortably. This proceeding was a terrible mistake, as it is in the -night time and the early dawn that these chills are acquired, which -prove at all times most deadly, especially in a hot climate. - -On the whole, I should consider Abyssinia to be a very healthy -country. The only two complaints which Europeans seem to suffer from -are intermittent fevers--which are not, as a rule, of a very dangerous -nature--and dysentery, which, of course, if proper remedies and -suitable food are at hand, is not serious, but under other -circumstances may prove very dangerous. Let me urge upon all -travellers who go to seek adventure and sport in Africa to remember to -keep their heads well protected from the sun, and their loins well -girded with either a thick cumberbund, worn outside, or, better still, -a flannel belt worn next the skin. Every one will notice that the -natives are dressed in this way, especially the Arabs who live at -Massowah, where the climate is very hot. It would be useless for me to -go into the different diseases the natives of the country are subject -to. There is one which I have already mentioned, that is the taenia, or -tapeworm. They are also subject to intermittent fevers during the -rains, and suffer from a complaint caused by a parasite called the -Guinea worm, which is a worm that forms in the flesh, very often the -thigh, and has to be gradually twisted out. If during the operation -the worm breaks, a horrible ulcer forms. As to scrofula and its -origin, I saw very little of it, the natives seeming, on the whole, -pretty free from this terrible scourge. When a person among them is -afflicted with very bad rheumatism they have rather an original way of -effecting a cure, which is by putting bits of cotton on the parts -affected, and igniting them, making them burn fiercely by blowing upon -the cotton. This is even sometimes done for the purpose of creating -beauty marks, as they are considered--a young man showing his -fortitude by allowing one of the fair sex to light one of these bits -of cotton, and blow on it to create as much heat as possible. If by -any chance he flinches, or shows any indication of pain, he is thought -to be a coward, and not worthy of the lady's notice. Concerning this -mode of curing rheumatism, I believe there is some similar custom -among country people in England, the _modus operandi_ being a heated -flat iron with which the affected limb is treated. - -_Feb. 13._--I rode out this morning on my mule through a green, thorny -jungle which lay opposite the hill on which we were camped. I was on -the lookout for big game, and so did not fire at a large flock of -guinea-fowl which I put up: there must have been at least two or three -hundred of them, and they all rose at once, making a tremendous row. -It was a very pretty sight, and one quite peculiar to the country -which I was in. I felt very seedy, and disinclined to do anything; and -so having gone straight through this patch of jungle I came to the -little stream again, where I sat down by a pool, and waited there for -most of the day, in hopes of some animal coming down to drink. -Barrakee, who had been out in a different direction with H., not long -after I had been here, came up, and H. went on down the stream, while -Barrakee and myself watched over the pool. A little gazelle came to -drink: instead of my waiting in order to get a broadside shot, I fired -at it while it was looking at me, and the result was to break one of -its fore-legs. Barrakee rushed after it, but we saw no more of it. I -then mounted my mule, which had been grazing close by, and rode home -into camp. Our three days were over, our provisions finished, and we -resolved the next day, which was Sunday, to start for home. - -_Feb. 14._--I was worse to-day, and we started early for our camp on -the Tackazzee. The servants, while we had been absent, had, according -to arrangement, moved the camp away from the river; Fisk had been left -in charge. The reason of this move was they were all very much -frightened of the Baria, and thought, as we should be absent with our -guns, that it would be better if they got away from the river, by -whose banks the Baria are supposed to be always lurking. I rode -towards camp feeling very desponding, and on the way H. fired at some -pig, and wounded one badly, but the beast managed to get away, leaving -large tracks of blood on its path. We also saw some strange-looking -deer, of a colour resembling that usual with donkeys, but with short -horns curving back from their foreheads like those of goats: they -stood, I should think, very nearly fourteen hands from the ground. On -our way back we passed the spot which had been the scene of our -unlucky exploit with the lion, and, curiously enough, two gazelles -came bounding past at the time, but we succeeded in missing them; we -were fated to kill no game in this place. When I rode into camp, Hadji -Mahomet, the old native we had brought from Massowah, came up to -welcome us back, and said, in Arabic, "Allah has brought you safely -back." I felt very much inclined to reply, and I believe I did at the -time, "No, my mule has brought me back," as I felt very disappointed, -and looked upon the expedition we had made as a total failure. I was -very glad to get into a comfortable bed, as the coolie, who had lost -his way, had succeeded in finding the camp the servants had pitched a -little way off from the Tackazzee. - -_Feb. 15._--I was still bad with this horrid complaint, and so I -stayed in camp reading the few books we had with us, and took -medicine; I also amused myself by making a small model of the raft -that I proposed to use when hunting the hippopotami, in order that -Brou might understand how to go on working at it. H. and Fisk went out -shooting partridges to make broth for me. There were not nearly so -many partridges here on the Tackazzee as we found on the Mareb; for -the tamarisk bushes which fringe the banks of the Mareb were, as a -rule, full of them. With a couple of dogs we might really have had -some very good shooting, and made big bags; but without dogs it was -almost impossible to get the birds up, as they ran so tremendously; -but when they did get up they were not hard to shoot, as they did not -seem to fly nearly so strongly as the English birds, which they very -much resembled, with one exception, which was that their bills and -legs were red, the plumage being exactly the same. We tried to keep -some of the birds, in order to give them that gamy flavour which is -esteemed in England; but the weather was too hot, and the flesh got -bad too quickly. The rapid setting-in of decomposition was a great -drawback when a beast was killed in camp, as the meat had to be eaten -almost immediately; but, both in its raw and cooked state, it is -surprising what a quantity the natives will manage to consume. - -_Feb. 16._--To-day I was very much better, the medicine seemed to have -done me good; but, instead of staying in camp and perfecting my cure, -I stupidly went out and did a hard day's work, standing up to my -middle under water in a hot sun, to complete the raft. The raft when -finished was, to speak fairly, a great success. It was made in the -following way: Six logs of the dome-palm tree were lashed with raw -hide, cut from the skin of one of the cows which we had killed in -camp; the logs were lashed to two cross pieces, and from one cross -piece to the other I fixed two thin pliable boughs, under which I -jammed a lot of dry "hippopotamus grass" (the long grass growing by -the side of the river), which had been cut a day or two before and put -out in the sun on the shingly bank of the river to dry. The grass was -jammed in under these thin sticks, so that it went across the logs and -made a place for any one to stand in, and also assisted in promoting -the buoyancy of the raft. - -A caravan of about three or four hundred people came across the river -to-day on their way to Walkait. These caravans generally assemble in -Tigre, in order to make up a large number, so that their goods may be -properly cared for in case of any attack by the Baria. One man among -them had a couple of very good-looking donkeys; he must have procured -them from some of the Arab tribes who live on the borders of the -country; I tried to buy one of the donkeys, but the man wanted a -great deal too much for it. The caravan only stayed close to our camp -during the heat of the day, and in the afternoon they moved on. They -were bringing back grain and salt, having taken out cotton to the -different towns in the province of Tigre. - -_Feb. 17._--I am better to-day, and I worked at the raft to put the -finishing touches to it. In the afternoon I went out fishing, and I -had put on a hook with a piece of raw meat as bait, having made a rod -of two bamboo sticks spliced together. I caught nothing, nor did I -even get a bite. I was sitting in camp towards the evening when one of -the coolies rushed in to say that he had seen some elephants on the -other side of the river, a little way down, looking very much as if -they were going to cross the river. Barrakee was in camp. I took my -guns, and he, with two of his men and my gun-bearers, went out to look -for the elephants. We crept along the bank of the river, and on the -other side Barrakee pointed out two fine bull elephants; they were -standing amongst the dense jungle which bordered the river, evidently -undecided whether to cross or not. H. and Fisk were out shooting -partridges for our dinner, and just as we saw the elephants we heard -two shots. This was very unlucky, but H. had no idea that there were -elephants near. It must have startled them, as very shortly afterwards -we saw them crashing away through the forest. It was a very pretty -picture to see these huge animals standing amongst the thick trees and -jungle, the rays of the setting sun, at the time, just lighting up the -broad and sparkling river as it ran below us--the whole being a -thoroughly wild African scene, and one which any lover of sport would -have appreciated. I should say that whilst fishing that afternoon I -left a hand-line in charge of a native, who afterwards assured me, -when I asked him if he had had a bite, that some big fish had taken -hold of it and pulled him on to his knees; certainly one of his knees -was a little bit bruised by the stones. The thermometer here ranged -from 109 deg. to 115 deg. in the tent, in the middle of the day; so my readers -may imagine it was pretty hot. - -_Feb. 18._--To-day Brou got the raft ready for launching, and a large -caravan of nearly four hundred people came across the river, most of -whom camped close by. One of our messengers, whom we had employed to -carry letters for us to the coast, had taken this opportunity of -joining the caravan in order to bring the letters down to us. Arrekel -Bey, the Governor of Massowah, had sent me some French newspapers, so -we were well posted up in all the news. The chief of the caravan had -been very kind to our coolie, who was named Givra Michael, and had -given him food during the journey. We sent for the chief and talked -some time with him: he told me he was taking his people, and cows, and -belongings, back to his home in Walkait, the country then being at -peace. There are very often feuds and disputes going on among the -petty chiefs, especially in this part of Abyssinia. I amused the -Abyssinian by showing him my guns and revolvers, and, for his -edification, fired at a mark with one of my revolvers: he was much -astonished at the rapidity with which the revolver went off. I made -him a present of a pocket-handkerchief and two hanks of beads, with -which he was very much delighted. I had with me at the time Rassam's -book, called 'British Mission to Abyssinia;' in the frontispiece of -the first volume is a picture of King Theodore, and this I showed to -the chief and most of his followers. They were intensely interested -with it, and said the likeness was very good. It was very amusing to -hear their remarks and to see the expression on their faces as the -picture was handed round. I went out fishing in the evening, but some -monster of the deep ran out about seventy yards of my line so fast -that I could scarcely hold it. I am rather better to-day, having taken -some opium. - -_Feb. 19._--Brou came to me this morning to tell me that Barrakee was -suffering from diarrhoea, and begged I would give him a little -brandy and water. I also discovered that others of the servants were -suffering from the same complaint; indeed none of them looked very -well. I consulted with H., and it was agreed that we should move camp -to-night, there being a full moon at the time, which afforded plenty -of light to travel by. I launched the raft in the afternoon, and got -it safely over the rapids that we had forded, and moored it on the -left bank of the river, a little above the hippopotamus pool. I -thought at the time that perhaps a change up into the more bracing air -of the hills would do myself, as well as the rest of the party, some -good, and that we might before leaving the country return here; but my -wishes were never realized. That evening we dined early and left camp -about eight o'clock, having burned all our "dasses" (or leaf-houses), -which made a tremendous blaze, and the scene certainly was a wild one. -Before coming down to the Tackazzee I had presented all the servants -with a piece of red cloth, which they put round their heads, and by -the light of the blazing sticks they looked more like so many devils -than human beings. They were scantily clothed, and the red -handkerchiefs gave them a fierce and wild appearance. We crossed the -river, bathed in the light of a full tropical moon, then marched up -along the road that we had come by, and we pitched camp near some -water in the jungle at 10.45. I was a little better, but the ride up -from the river tired me a good deal. - -_Feb. 20._--My complaint is about the same, but I do not suffer so -much pain from it. I took three doses of opium, but this medicine -makes one feel very weak. I amused myself in the afternoon learning an -Abyssinian game called Galanift, which is played in the following way: -twelve small holes are dug in the ground, six in a row opposite each -other; four pellets, or bullets, are put into each hole; A takes one -row, and B the other. They sit down opposite each other, and the -object of the game is to take the adversary's bullets by certain -moves, which are all made from left to right. It is something like the -game called Solitaire, but is very complicated, and requires the -exertion of your powers of mental arithmetic to understand it. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - OUR DAILY ROUTINE -- BAKING A JERKED KOODOO -- LOSS OF AN - ELEPHANT -- A SEPARATION -- MY ILLNESS INCREASES -- STARVATION -- - A GOD-SEND -- SAD PLIGHT -- FRESH SUPPLIES -- A HARD MARCH -- - NARROW ESCAPE -- AN EXCITING HUNT -- PRIMITIVE BUTCHERY -- A - CURIOUS SHOT -- CARAVAN -- EXCHANGE OF CIVILITIES -- "CHURCH" -- - CHANGE OF AIR -- ACCIDENT TO THE KITCHEN -- STRANGE VISITORS -- A - THUNDERSTORM. - - -_Feb. 21._--I have nothing of great importance to tell about this day. -I lost my pencil, that I used to write my diary with, and I was -obliged to use as a substitute the sad remains of the only quill pen -left me, and which I managed to render serviceable by tying it on to a -bit of stick. As I have so little to say, I will give you a sketch of -our day in camp. It begins mostly at sunrise. The first thing that -happens is that the donkeys and mules are untethered and led out to -grass. Our water-barrel is taken down to the stream or pool which we -are camped by, to be filled; it takes about three men to carry it up -again full. When the water is brought up the kettles are put on to -boil, and Mahomet, who is my servant, and Fisk, H.'s servant, get -ready our things for dressing. We get up and generally perform our -ablutions in the open air, with our little basin either propped upon -the stump of a tree or else on a heap of stones close to the tent. We -breakfast about eight, and then go out shooting--that is to say, I -used to do so when I was well. Fisk serves out the servants' rations -for the day about ten o'clock, and a very few minutes after this all -hands are hard at work making their bread, which is accomplished by -mixing flour and water and making the whole mass into a -plaster-of-Paris-like paste. - -Most of our servants have divided themselves into messes of three or -four, and the way in which they bake their bread is both original and -primitive. Well-to-do travellers in Abyssinia, generally carry an iron -pan, exactly the shape of one of the copper scale pans that grocers -weigh tea in, but the poorer natives have to content themselves with a -flat stone, numbers of which are to be seen, propped up on other -stones, at all the camping-places on the road, with the ashes of -recent fires beneath them. While they are making their paste the stone -is being heated over a fire, and directly it is hot enough they pour -on to it the liquid dough and let it bake; when it is done on one side -they turn it over like a pancake. When sufficiently cooked it is a -hot doughy sort of flat cake; and those people who are lucky enough to -have a little red pepper eat it with the bread. There is nothing of -which an Abyssinian is so fond as red pepper, and the quantity he -manages to pass down his throat is something surprising. We had a good -deal of rice with us, and had found that by grinding the rice between -two smooth flat stones, which we got from the bed of the Tackazzee, it -made excellent flour; and we had hot rice cakes, baked in Brou's iron -pan, every morning for breakfast. After breakfast, if I did not go out -shooting, there was generally something to do in camp, either to mend -or put the men to work at making ropes, out of the fibre of a certain -tree, for lashing our things together, or else sending them to cut -grass for our "das," or leaf-house, which we live in during the day, -as these bowers are always much cooler when they are well thatched -with grass. Sometimes we have tiffin, and sometimes not. It is usually -hottest between one and three in the afternoon, and then it is always -best to be in camp. In the evening we generally went out shooting till -dark. The donkeys and mules, having been taken to water, are brought -in about five o'clock and tethered; they are left to stand till dark, -when the grass that has been cut is given them for the night. We dined -between seven and eight, and after dinner the flour was served out to -the servants for their evening meal. Any arrangements were now made -for the day following. H. and I sat by the camp fire, generally played -a tune upon my banjo, and then, after enjoying a smoke, we turned in -to rest. - - * * * * * - -After dinner is one of the pleasantest times in this beautiful -climate; the stars shine brightly, and from the place where we were -now encamped the constellations, both of the Great Bear and the -Southern Cross, could be seen. For the last week I had been so unwell -that I had not written up my journal. Symptoms of dysentery had -appeared, and I was afraid I should be laid up. During this week H. -had been out shooting, and he and Barrakee had the luck between them -to kill a large koodoo. Of course all hands in camp were delighted, -and a great portion of the meat was "jerked," that is to say, hung up -in the sun and dried. We found, at first, this jerked meat was very -hard to eat, but by grinding it between two stones, mixing it with a -little rice, fat, and onions, and then making it into a sort of -rissole and frying it, it did not make at all a bad meal. - -One day during this week H. went out after elephants, and saw a very -large herd; he said there must have been about eighty of them, but -when the herd winded the hunters, they trumpeted and separated about -the country. Two of them were making down a little ravine, close to -where H., Barrakee, and the gun-bearer, were standing. H. told me that -Plowden Gubrihote, his gun-bearer, was in a dreadful "funk," and -assured him that these elephants were the man-killing elephants, well -known in this part of the world; that they would surely kill them if -they did not immediately take to their heels and run away. H. told him -to sit still, or else he would "lick" him. The elephants came nearer -and nearer, and one of Barrakee's men put up his gun to fire. This -would have been ridiculous, as they were nearly eighty yards off. H. -knocked the gun out of his hand, and told him to sit quiet. The -elephants were now fast approaching, when Barrakee and his man both -fired. This was exceedingly annoying, as from all accounts the -elephants would have passed by close to where the party were -concealed, and H. would have had a capital shot. - -We stopped in the jungle here rather more than a week. I thought -perhaps another change of air would do me good, and we moved up to -Kourasa, where we had been camped before. I did not know at the time -that I was so ill, nor did H., or else I should not have made the -proposal I did when we got here. I told H. that our time was short in -the country, and it was of very little use his stopping with me; I -thought he had better move on with Barrakee, who assured us that, in -the country near his village on the frontier, we should find very good -shooting, even much better than we had had before. H. left me a few -servants behind, and four or five donkeys. We were getting short of -flour, and we agreed that he should go on to Barrakee's village, send -me back flour for the servants, and that I, on the day after he left, -would move up to Coom-Coom-Dema and stop there till the flour arrived. -Accordingly the next day he started away in the morning. Just as he -left, luckily I said to him, "I think you had better leave me five -dollars of our money, in case of accidents." This was literally all -the coin I had with me when I started to go to the coast. - -I started the next day for Coom-Coom-Dema, and very nearly lost my -way; my gun-bearers did not seem to remember it, and it was only by -chance that I recollected some trees and a low hill which guided me -across the plain to where we had been encamped before. When I arrived -I felt very bad indeed, and I was really exceedingly ill. The flour -had run out, and I had to serve out some rice that evening to my -servants; for myself I had some biscuits to eat. I hoped by the -morning of the next day to receive flour from H., but it never came, -and the servants had no food nearly all that day, except some scraps -that they had managed to save. The next morning I had nothing to give -them, but they seemed to bear it all without complaint. I went out to -try and kill some of the little sand-grouse for myself, but I did not -succeed. When I came into camp Petros informed me the donkey-boy had -broken down; and when he had brought in the animals to tie them up for -the night, that he had begun to cry and had said, "Where's master? for -I want something to eat." I was at my wit's-end what to do, as it was -two long days' march to the nearest village, which was Azho, and I had -only just enough rice for one meal. - -Things looked very bad; the evening closed in, and, just before it got -dark, Petros shouted out, "Oh, here is the flour!" It was not our own -flour, it was a leading party of a caravan which was going through to -Walkait. This was indeed a God-send! I saw there was no time to be -lost, so I called for my rifle, and the first donkey I saw that looked -as if it was loaded with flour I seized, led to the camp, unloaded it, -and poured out the flour on the tarpaulin sheet which generally formed -the floor of our tent. The owner of the donkey, as well as some of the -rest of the caravan, were, I believe, going to expostulate; but I told -one of my servants to tell them if they moved I would shoot them, and -that we were starving and we must have food. At that moment the chief -of the caravan--or rather the man who is generally appointed to lead -these people through the country, and arrange all payments to the -customs--appeared. He made everything all right, and we kept the -flour; and, as he rode away to the place where they were going to stop -that night, he sent me back, by one of my servants, some bread of his -own. - -_Feb. 26._--I find in my journal this day that I was very ill, and -went out in the morning and shot two brace of little sand-grouse, as I -had not had fresh meat for some little time. I did not take any more -medicine, as I found it made me so weak. I caused the servants to make -me a large "das," long and narrow; in one end I used to sit most of -the day, and in the other my guns and what few provisions I had were -hung up. They watered the ground all round, and also the grass walls -of the "das," so that it made me pretty cool during the heat of the -day, whilst the darkness kept the flies out: certainly it was rather -miserable work feeling and being ill all alone in the jungle; indeed -long before this I ought to have started for home, as, when once -dysentery gets hold of you, nothing but complete change of air, good -food, and medicine, is likely to effect a cure. I still hung on to the -thought that I should get better, but, if I had known what was really -the matter, I should never have hesitated. - -_Feb. 27._--Our own flour did not appear till the afternoon of to-day, -and I never felt more pleased than when I got it. They gave me a note -from H., which was written in pencil on an envelope, and ran as -follows:-- - - "Barrakee's Village, _Friday, 26th_, 1 P.M. - -"Thank Heaven we have just this moment arrived! You never saw such a -journey: it was sixty, if not seventy, miles. We waited for two hours -in the heat of the day to rest the donkeys, and then went on as hard -as we could, and arrived at the river that Barrakee had spoken about -at 6 P.M. The rest of the donkeys came up about an hour after. We -stayed till the moon got up about 11 or 12 P.M. We had to leave the -donkeys behind; they will, I hope, be here some time to-night. I have -been marching ever since, and have just this moment arrived. The mules -are regularly done up: mine and Fisk's cannot move. I shall keep the -things _here_ till you _come up_. You will find it two good days' -march from Coom-Coom-Dema to this place. The river B. spoke about is a -beastly place; the water is bad, but you will be able to catch fish. -We caught some. Three of Barrakee's villagers are to take the flour. I -brought one of ours on, intending to send him back, but it is -impossible, for he is dead beat and has been walking for twenty-four -hours straight off; he could never walk back sixty miles, for I quite -think it is that from Coom-Coom-Dema. You will see when you come. They -will show you the way here. How is your complaint, old man? I do trust -it is all right now. I cannot move from here, for I know when the -baggage comes up the donkeys will be completely done. They are bound -to come on account of the food. - - - "_Friday, Feb. 26_, 1.30 P.M. - -"They have just finished grinding and collecting the flour. Our coolie -is going after all. He is anxious to make a dollar. If they are not -with you before sunset to-morrow (Saturday), they forfeit a dollar. -The money is with their Shum.[13] There is enough for one hundred and -sixty bread" (rations), "also ten eggs. One of the bags that the flour -is in does not belong to us. We shall soon be all straight. Barrakee -is getting the rest of the flour." - - -Never was letter more acceptable, and especially as with it had come -the long-desired and looked-for flour. Although H. had not long been -away from me, in the short time I had experienced a feeling of -loneliness as well as utter helplessness; but it was no good giving -way to thoughts like these, as if my servants once saw any inclination -on my part to despond, I should never have been able to get anything -done, and they would have found out too soon that even the -much-dreaded white man is at times dependent upon help, even if it be -from a nigger. On the whole, I cannot complain of my servants, as they -had much to put up with. When one is ill, little annoyances are hard -to bear, and I dare say at times I was thought rather tyrannical; but -it is very little use regretting these things now, as there is not the -remotest chance of any of my natives reading what I have here written. - -_Feb. 28._--This was an uneventful day, and I felt exceedingly weak -and ill. It had become very much cooler than it was in the two camps -nearer the Tackazzee, as the north wind blows towards the evening and -the mornings are quite cool. - -_March 1._--I find written in my journal: "Am, I think, getting really -better. I have shot one and a half brace of little sand-grouse as they -flew near the tent in the morning. I went after the herd of hartebeest -that I had seen very often near the tent, on the plain at the head of -which I was encamped, but I could not get near them. I succeeded -to-day in very nearly poisoning myself by mistaking one medicine for -another, for I took opium in mistake for some other stuff. After I had -discovered my error I swallowed some brandy, went out for a walk, and -told my servants if they found me going to sleep to wake me up." - -_March 2._--The opium seems to have done me good, as I find written -in the journal that "I am decidedly better, the symptoms of dysentery -having partly gone away." To-day I had great fun shooting a fine bull -hartebeest. This animal is about the size of an Alderney cow. I was -going out of my tent very early in the morning when I saw the herd -grazing not far off on the plain. I tried to stalk a bull which was -feeding behind the herd and on the nearest side to me, but I failed. I -then tried to stalk another, which was more on the left of the herd, -and which looked a very big gentleman, and, I think, an old friend of -mine, as I had fired at him before. As I was creeping along, the herd -had closed up and passed not far off on my right. The bull that I had -first tried to stalk was following. I missed him with both barrels of -my Express, and then I ran to the top of an ant-hill and took aim at -him with my heavy 12-bore rifle. It was a very long shot; the left -barrel broke his hind-leg just at the hock; and now the hunt began. - -I had come out of my tent with only my slippers on, and in walking -through the burnt grass of the plain the short hard stubs were rather -trying to my feet with nothing but stockings on. The bull hartebeest -managed to go very nearly two miles; he stopped on several occasions -and let me come close up to him. I fired at him with my Express, and, -as I thought, missed him; he then limped away again, but went a good -deal faster than one would suppose was possible. It was getting very -hot, but I was determined the brute should not beat me. I lost sight -of him for a little time among some trees; when I got through them I -found he was trying to ascend a small hill. I had two more cartridges -of my heavy rifle, and these I fired at him, and as he was waddling up -the hill the shot broke the fetlock-joint of his other hind-leg. This -stopped him, and Goubasee and myself found him sitting up like a dog, -close to a white-ant hill. I had no knife with me and no cartridges, -and I did not know on earth what to do; so Goubasee got big stones and -handed them up the ant-hill to me, as I stood on the top and tried to -smash his head in by throwing them at him. He charged at me in a -clumsy way twice, when I was not on the ant-hill, and very nearly -caught me with his horns as I half tripped-up in stepping back. I -thought I would look in the cartridge-bag to see if I had completely -run out of ammunition: to my great joy I found one Express cartridge; -so I put the beast out of his misery with a shot behind the ear. - -Guyndem, my other gunbearer, soon came up with knives. The carcase was -soon skinned and cut up, and I sent back for two donkeys to carry the -flesh into camp; it made two heavy loads for the donkeys, and the head -and skin taxed the strength of the donkey-driver as he carried it -home. I found that the animal had been hit by three bullets; one of -these was a very curious shot: when I had fired at him with the -Express, and thought it was a miss, the bullet had entered and exactly -divided the hartebeest's tail as he was galloping straight away from -me. This shot must have entered his entrails and stopped him -considerably; the two other bullets were the shots that broke the hock -of one of his hind-legs and the fetlock-joint of the other. There was -great rejoicing amongst the servants and donkey-drivers, who had -abundance to eat; and three long strings of jerked meat might be seen -festooning the trees near camp. They dried the meat on the leather -thongs with which the baggage was tied on the donkeys; these thongs -were stretched from tree to tree. - -I returned to camp completely done up; and I do not think the chase -after the deer, under the hot sun, did me very much good; but still a -little sport, when you have been ill for some time, cheers you very -much. I had been trying to make little snares to catch small birds -with, and especially the doves, that came down in great quantities to -drink at the water-pools. It was rather amusing to watch them on these -occasions, but they were far too wary to be caught by such clumsy -contrivances. - -_March 3._--Went out this morning to look for some gazelles, of which -there are generally two or three in a little patch of very high grass -that escaped the fire at the time the rest of the dry grass was burnt. -I saw a buck gazelle and fired both barrels of the Express, and -missed. I then went and stood on an ant-hill in the middle of the -patch of high grass; two does got up close under my feet and rushed -away. I fired both barrels, and missed. The gazelle is by no means an -easy thing to hit with a rifle when it is going fast, as it is very -small. I was rather disgusted with this bad shooting, and was walking -back to camp when up rose another buck. I fired one barrel, and -missed; this shot seemed to turn him, and he went away parallel to the -direction I was going in, offering a shoulder shot. I rolled him over -with my left barrel as he was cantering along; he gave two or three -convulsive bounds, and, when I got up to him, he was quite dead; there -is nothing like an Express bullet for deadliness. Goubasee made a bag -of the skin, and I kept the head. - -When I got back to camp I found that H. had sent me some more -provisions, and I also got a letter from him, written on an -envelope:-- - - "Barrakee's Village, _Sunday, February 28th_. - -"The coolies have just come back. I am very glad you got the flour -from the caravan--that was first-rate; but I am sorry you are not -coming on yet. As for this village, it is a horrid place, and there is -nothing to shoot within miles of it. It is up on a hill, but is on the -way to the Mareb; and so to-morrow I am going to start with Fisk, -Barrakee, Brou, and three or four coolies. I shall leave some behind -for you, and they will bring you on; Barrakee is going to leave a man -to show you the way. I hope I shall have better luck than on the -Tackazzee. As for flour, I cannot send you as much as I would, but -still send a good lot. We have hardly any empty bags. We sent you -three the other day; but when you get here have them filled up, and -come down. I send a bundle of letters down, addressed to the consul at -Suez--will you see that one coolie, if not two, takes them down to -Massowah, to catch the steamer on the 24th of March, as it only takes -nine days at the outside to get from Coom-Coom-Dema to Massowah. Do -send them for me to Arrekel Bey, and ask him to post them. I send them -to you, as I know you will have some letters to send too. I have no -ink or paper left. This is the last--and I am writing to you now with -gunpowder and milk, which does capitally. I am fearfully sorry about -you, and should come back if I thought I could do any good; but I know -I really could not. But I trust, old fellow, you will be all right by -the time you receive this. I shall not send the flour off from here -till daylight on Tuesday morning, or if I can I will arrange for it to -leave on Monday (to-morrow) evening. They are working hard now, -grinding a dollar's worth for us to take; and I am sending you some -honey, one bottle of brandy, potatoes, onions, and some eggs. One -donkey takes the flour and two of our coolies. - - - "_Monday morning, March 1st._ - -"Your flour will leave this afternoon. Cassa here, in charge of the -baggage left behind. Shall be back to-day fortnight; but they will -show you the way down when they come. - - "Ever yours, - "H." - - -I must explain to my readers that the Mareb which H. talks of in this -letter is the same river that we were on before, he being many miles -lower down its course, in fact, much nearer the plains than where we -had been. - - * * * * * - -A large caravan with cotton from Walkait came by to-day. The chief of -the caravan came up to me as I was seated outside my "das" loading -some cartridges, and paid his respects, commencing by making two very -low bows--nearly touching the ground with his head. I gave him some -powder which he begged for, and asked him if he would give me a -_machet_, which is a Tigre word for a little sickle, which the natives -use to cut grass for their beasts; and my servants were always -complaining that they had not one, and so they could not manage to cut -grass well for the donkeys. He was exceedingly civil and good-natured, -and took one of my coolies on with him some little way on the road, to -the place where they were going to camp, and sent him back with the -machet. The chief told me they had seen elephants as they had come up -from the Tackazzee, and also three or four of the Baria tribe. His -people, very bravely--as they were ten to one--offered to fight the -Baria; but these niggers were wise in their generation, and took to -their heels on seeing so large a party. The tail of the caravan did -not come up till nearly dark, and so camped for the night about 150 -yards from my tent. Just after sunset, when I was going to eat my -dinner, they began a low-toned chant in which they all joined; it was -rather pretty and mournful. I asked Hadji Mahomet, who was a -Mahomedan, what it meant; he said it was "church;" at least that was -the interpretation that Petros, my bearer, put upon his answer. All -these men who were singing were Abyssinian Copts. I was much better in -health this day. - -_March 4._--Instead of staying quietly at Coom-Coom-Dema I thought -that a change of air to the other side of the plain would do me good. -I had seen a spring of water on my way here, and so in the morning I -sent out one of my servants to look for it. He came back and said he -had found it; and so, in the evening, just before sunset, I started -for my new camp. The servants were very annoying and they would do -nothing they were told. I fired much of the dry grass of the plain, in -hopes of burning the rest of it bare in order that I might see more -game, and I had a long shot at a "tora," or hartebeest, on my way -across. When we got rather near the water where I was to camp we -happened to lose our way, and we were wandering about for some time. -Ali the cook possessed a mule, on which the tin-pots and kettle were -strapped; the animal got frightened at the rattling of the things on -its back, and galloped away kicking and plunging, sending the utensils -flying in different directions, including my two plates and a large -boiling-pot that I used to make soup in, and also Ali's bedding; this, -I am sure, he regretted a good deal more than any of my things. He had -bought this wretched mule for 12 dollars at Adiaboo. This trip across -made me very ill, as all my arrangements went wrong, and I did not get -comfortably to bed until rather late. - -Before I left Coom-Coom-Dema three wild-looking men came into camp: -they said they had come down into the jungle to look for wild honey. -They had a small gourd filled with this stuff, for which they wanted a -dollar, and they were evidently very poor. They gave me as a present -two large pear-shaped fruit with a green velvety shell; the inside was -filled with seeds, covered with a sort of white spongy pulp, which was -deliciously acid. The servants called this fruit Habbaboo. I find -Mansfield Parkyns says that this fruit is called Dema, the scientific -name being _Adansonia digitata_. I gave these honey-hunters two hanks -of beads, with which they seemed very well pleased. - -_March 5._--I was not nearly so well this morning, having drunk some -brandy and water the night before. The rice-water which I had been -drinking during my illness had been made at Coom-Coom-Dema before I -started, but it was in one of the tin-pots that galloped off on the -back of Ali's mule. The servants again put me up a capital "das," and -it was very dark and cool. The cook's mule was found to-day, but minus -the stock-pot and some plates. I informed him I would shoot the brute -if he did not go out and find the plates, etc., and wonderful to -relate, they appeared in the evening all right, but rather battered. -The mule had gone back to Coom-Coom-Dema, and was found close to where -we had before camped, cropping the grass by the side of the water. I -went out in the evening and shot one of the little sand-grouse for -dinner as it came down to drink. I felt very poorly, and almost too -weak to walk about. - -_March 6._--Worse to-day. This horrid complaint sticks to me, symptoms -of dysentery having returned. I am afraid I must make up my mind to -start for home--a bad ending to a sporting expedition. I shall have -been ill now three weeks to-morrow. I took some chlorodyne last night, -and I think it only made me worse. - -_March 7._--I am much better this morning, having taken three doses of -opium, which acted instantaneously, thank goodness! There was a -thunder-storm last night with two very heavy showers, and the most -beautiful sunset I ever saw; great masses of clouds coming up from the -south-east, and vivid lightning, and the thunder rolling and echoing -through the mountains; it was a very grand sight. I was kept awake -part of last night by the howling of a hyena, about ten yards from the -tent. I thought at first it was a lion, but the servants assured me it -was a _gib_, which is their word for hyena. He stopped about a quarter -of an hour, making a hideous noise, and at last retired. There was a -new moon to-day, so I was in hopes there might be a change in the -weather, which would have done me much good: it was a great deal -cooler this morning, after the thunder-storm. I made Goubasee -administer a slight castigation to Ali, the cook, who had neglected to -boil my rice-water the night before, and, as it was the only thing I -had to drink, this was very disagreeable, as it was brought to me for -my breakfast almost boiling hot and excessively nasty. It is needless -to say this mistake never occurred again. This was not his first -offence, and Ali, who was a Cairo man, was rather inclined at times to -be sulky, and not to do anything; but on the whole he was not a bad -servant. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[13] _Shum_ is Amharic for a chief of several villages. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - AN INGENIOUS BED -- EN ROUTE FOR THE COAST -- A SAD PLIGHT -- - UNPLEASANT TRAVELLING -- FRIENDS -- FORCIBLE PERSUASION -- AN - AMUSING ENCOUNTER -- AN ADVENTURE -- I OPEN A BAZAAR -- PRICES -- - HOSPITALITY -- HAGGLING -- REINFORCEMENT -- LETTERS FROM HOME -- - A MISERABLE NIGHT -- FALSE RUMOURS -- I SELL TWO DONKEYS -- "HARD - UP" -- GEESE AND HORNBILLS -- ILL-TIMED THEFT -- STRANGE QUARTERS - -- TOOTH-BRUSHES. - - -_March 8._--I was very bad all last night; I think I had eaten too -much meat at dinner. I am writing my journal with a pen made out of a -guinea-fowl quill, and with ink composed of some gunpowder, preserved -milk and water, mixed up together--rather a curious combination. My -little camp bed is so small that I asked Mahomet, my bearer, if he -could make me any sort of bed rather bigger. He said, "I make bed -Abyssinian fashion?" and I replied "Yes." He set to work, with the -help of Goubasee and Guyndem, to make an _inchat algar_, which is -their word for a wooden bed. They cut four short forked poles and -stuck them upright in the ground; the holes they put them into were -grubbed out with the iron tent pegs. They then tied sticks on to the -four posts, so as to make a sort of hollow oblong. These sticks were -tied with plaited bark or fibre. Inside, these oblong sticks were -lashed both to the foot and head of the bed. Of course such a bed can -be made of any height and any length. They then cut a quantity of dry -grass and laid it across the frame, and my rugs spread over the dry -grass made an excellent, comfortable, springy couch. I should think -such beds would be very good for impromptu hospitals on a campaign, -using hay or straw instead of grass; they are exceedingly warm and -well ventilated. It took about two hours and a half for four servants -to do the whole thing; that is, for cutting the wood and grass, -grubbing the holes, tying the sticks, and completing it. - -I have determined to start for home, as I get no better here. I am -indeed an unlucky sportsman, and I always was. Perhaps it is all for -the best. I do not know what H. will say to this. I went out for a -little walk on the plain yesterday, and saw the herd of hartebeest in -the distance, but I did not feel up to stalking them. - -_March 9._--I am a little better to-day, and the provisions I sent for -to Barrakee's village have arrived all safe; so I start for Azho, a -large frontier village, to-day. I hope to catch the steamer which I -believe leaves Massowah for Suez about the 24th of March. To-day I -shot a large bare-necked vulture, which was hovering over the camp -last evening, and I am writing my journal with one of its quills, as -Petros, in sweeping out my "das," chanced to lose my guinea-fowl pen. -The vulture I thought to be a bird of ill-omen, and so knocked him -down. In the evening I went out close to the water and shot one of the -sand-grouse which came to drink, but it was so dark I could not find -the bird. No one can have any idea how miserable it is to be sick in -the bush, away from everybody and everything--no one to speak to but -your servant, who generally talks the vilest of negro English. -However, I was homeward-bound to-day, my servants having made me a -rough sort of palanquin, in which I intended to be carried, as I meant -to try and avoid either walking or riding. I hoped to get fresh eggs, -milk, and chickens at the village of Azho, which might improve me; as -in reality it was good food that I wanted. I had sent on some of my -baggage with Guyndem and another servant, and with orders to build me -a "das" at Azho, and let the people know that I was coming. I proposed -to stop half-way on the road at Maidarou. - -_March 10._--I had an awful journey on the previous night. I started -from the other side of the plain of Coom-Coom-Dema at five o'clock by -my little sundial, and got to Maidarou, our old camping-place, about 9 -P.M. Of course I could not say if this time was correct; it struck me -as being a good deal later. Taiou, one of our coolies--a man who had -been with an Englishman named Flood that had lived in the country some -time before--lost the donkey on which my bed was strapped, just before -we came into camp. It was very dark when we came to Maidarou, and -Goubasee, who was carrying my palanquin, and who was in front, tumbled -into a hole and shot me and my gun and books on to the ground. This -was rather unpleasant, considering the state of health I was in, but -there was no alternative but to get up and laugh and go on. At last I -saw the twinkling light of a fire, and I soon found myself at the top -of the little rocky hill where we had camped before. But although I -had arrived at the halting-place there was no bed for me to sleep on; -so I bade them put all the skin bags I had with me down at the end of -the tent, then I put some big stones alongside, and covered the whole -with some dry cut grass. This made a capital bed, and I slept better -than I had done for the last two weeks, as I was completely tired and -done up. Curiously enough, the caravan that afforded me some flour -when my servants were almost starving had just arrived, on their way -back to Adiaboo with cotton from Walkait. Zaroo, the man who behaved -so kindly to me before and gave me some bread of his own, said, as I -was so ill, he would induce some of the people of the caravan to -carry me in my palanquin. I here wrote my journal lying on my bags and -straw under the shade of two beautiful trees, a luxury one appreciates -in this hot climate. I am much better, I think, to-day. - -That afternoon I started for Azho; the chief of the caravan, by -threats and persuasions, making his people carry me. I was jolted -along somehow or other; and the journey was not eventful, with one -exception. One old gentleman declined the honour of carrying me, and -made a great row. I found myself and my palanquin placed on the -ground, with every prospect of being left there. I said, if they would -not take me on to the next camping-place I would shoot them, and I let -off my revolver in the air, but still the old native refused to take -up the burden, and told the other people not to carry me. I here -leaped up and knocked him backwards with "one in the eye;" he tripped -up over his load of cotton, that he had placed down beside him, and -turned a complete summersault. The rest, seeing what had become of -him, and being rather astonished at a sick man getting well enough to -do this, picked up me and my palanquin and carried me off. It was -getting late, and the men carrying me were going very slow, so I rode -the mule belonging to Ali the cook, for a little way, but found I -should not be able to get to Azho that night, and I stopped at some -water half-way. I was better, so I told the chief I would not bother -him or his people to carry me any farther; and he came the last thing -in the evening to say good-bye to me, as they were going to start at -daybreak. - -Last night Ali and Mahomet had a difference of opinion about an order -I had given with regard to some food. One of them had told a lie, and -they both accused each other of lying. I said I could not allow this, -as nothing would be done if things went on in this sort of way; so, in -the morning, after the caravan had gone on, I said they were to settle -their dispute with two sticks. I made Goubasee cut two long sticks, -and the scene which ensued beat anything I ever saw. They were so -frightened of each other that neither of them dared at first to hit -very hard, but at length, when either of them did so, the other -flinched most dreadfully and then returned the blow with compound -interest. When one blow was harder than another a yell in proportion -followed its infliction. I made myself quite ill with laughing at -them, and the servants were in convulsions too. At last they begged of -me to let them off; and so I said they ought to be satisfied with each -other now. - -_March 11._--Started for Azho in the afternoon, riding Ali's mule, -and, after a tiring march, I came in sight of the village at sunset. -Some of the villagers, who had heard I was coming up, came out to -meet me and say "How do you do?" I found that Guyndem, whom I had sent -on, had not built a "das," as the people would not lend him any tools -for making it, or give him any assistance. I went straight up to a -cluster of houses, and said I should pitch my tent inside the hedge -which surrounded them. The people were very civil at first, and -brought some milk. I asked them to give me some dry grass, which they -used for thatching their houses, to put on an _angareb_ which they had -lent me.[14] I was in great pain at the time, and was very much -annoyed at their not bringing this grass, so I sprang up with my -revolver in my hand. Before going any farther I must tell the reader -that the adventure which followed nearly cost me my life, and it was -all owing to my own foolishness. It is a great mistake to flash your -weapons if you really do not mean to use them. I ran down among some -houses where my servants were talking trying to persuade the people to -give me some dried grass, and said if they did not give me some I -would shoot them. It was getting rather dark, and I fired my revolver -off in the air. The women screamed, and in a minute the whole village -was up in arms. Some of the men had spears, and the others guns: they -completely surrounded me, and one seized me by the wrist and tried to -drag me off. I snatched myself out of his grasp and backed against a -straw hut. Another man kept pointing at me with a loaded gun about a -foot off my head, calling me _shifter_--which means robber. At this -moment a very tall Abyssinian pushed his way through the crowd and -came up to me, putting his hand over his mouth, which was to give me -to understand that I was to hold my tongue and not make a noise. He -took me by the hand and led me away, the crowd hooting and shouting at -me. One fellow ran in front and aimed his spear at me, but the tall -Abyssinian, who seemed to be my friend, raised his spear, and the -fellow took to his heels. As is very often the case with most of these -disputes, it all ended in smoke. I got the straw for my bed after all, -and went to sleep. They came to me and told me I must take my tent -outside their village, but I replied that I would not move it, and -that it did no harm there; so it stopped there for the night. - -_March 12._--To-day I made Petros sit outside the door of the big -round Abyssinian hut that I had taken possession of during the heat of -the day and "make bazaar," as he calls it; that is to say, he took my -handkerchiefs and beads and red cloth which I had with me, and -exchanged them for chickens and eggs, of which I was in great need. -It may interest some of my readers to know what the rate of exchange -was: one Manchester cotton pocket-handkerchief for one chicken and six -eggs. The haggling and bargaining over these important mercantile -transactions was very amusing, but Petros seemed up to everything; in -fact, his usual occupation was that of a merchant in the bazaar at -Suez. In the afternoon the man who had pointed the gun at me and -called me a robber came to pay me a visit. I asked why he had called -me a robber. He said that when he heard the shot fired, the people -told him I had shot his brother. He had brought me half a large -pumpkin as a sort of peace-offering. I said to him, if he would bring -me a whole one I would give him a red pocket-handkerchief. He went -away and fetched a large pumpkin, and I gave him a red handkerchief, -and then told him I was not accustomed to be called a robber, and -that, although I was very sick, if he would get two thick sticks I -would go outside the village with him and give him an excellent -thrashing. My friend sneaked off at this, and another Abyssinian, who -was standing by, seemed much amused. I had not got rid of the horrid -complaint that troubled me, and I was afraid that dysentery had set in -in earnest. I sent back a coolie from here to H., with a letter to say -that I had really started for the coast. I heard no more of him till I -got to England; the account of the sport he had I give hereafter. - -Towards the evening I started for Adikai, a village we had camped in -before. The man who had accused me of shooting his brother and called -me a robber came to say good-bye to me, and we parted the best of -friends. I tried to find out who the tall Abyssinian was who had -helped me out of the scrape and had taken me by the hand and led me -through the crowd, but he had disappeared, and no one knew who or -where he was; I believe he was a king's soldier who was stationed here -to collect the customs. I had an easy march to Adikai, and when I got -to the village my servants told me that Zaroo, my old friend the chief -of the caravan, who had made his people carry my palanquin, lived -close by. Shortly afterwards he came to see me, and brought me some -Dargousa beer, which had been kept for some time and which was pretty -good. I was kept awake half the night by the barking of the village -curs: at last, at my entreaties, some ballagas turned out and tried to -stop them, but it was of no use. A crying baby in a hut close by also -enlivened the night by its yells; so I sent to the mother of the child -and told her to give it some milk, which seemed to quiet it. - -_March 13._--The people of this village were much more civil to me, -and one of two men who had behaved very well at Azho, and who had come -up with me, sent off to a village close by and got me twelve eggs. The -Abyssinians, curiously enough, do not care for eggs; they sometimes -make a sort of curry of them with red pepper. After this man brought -me the eggs, which was early in the morning, he went on to Adiaboo, -where it was market-day. Zaroo came to me this morning, and I talked -with him over my journey to the coast, as he knew the road very well. -He told me he was acquainted with a much nearer way to Koudoofellassie -than that I had come by, and I asked him if he would come with me to -show it: at first he said he would, and then he asked me what I would -give him. I only had five dollars with me, so it was of very little -use offering him that. I said I would give him a revolver; but he told -me this would be of no use to him. What he really wanted was one of my -muzzle-loading pistols, of which I had a pair of very good ones, which -I had bought of Rigby in St. James's Street, and which I particularly -did not want to part with. After haggling with him a long time I was -quite disappointed, as he had at first assured me he did not want -anything for showing me the way. I then told him I would trust to -myself and go back the same way I had come, and thanked him for his -former kindness. - -I sent on the donkeys with the tent to Maihumloo, a little river where -we had camped before, at the end of the Sememmar Plain, meaning to go -on in the afternoon. I tried at this village to get two men to carry -some of my things, but they asked a great deal too much, and so we -could not come to terms. On my way to Adiaboo, Goubasee stopped an old -man, and his wife and daughter, and asked the old gentleman if he -would help to carry the load Goubasee had with him. The old patriarch -asked where we were going to; Goubasee replied Sememmar, and that he -would get a dollar if he carried the load; upon which, without a -moment's hesitation, notwithstanding the entreaties of his wife and -daughter, he picked up the load and carried it along. His daughter -then began to cry, and said she would not leave him, so they both -joined our little party. This was a great piece of luck for me, as it -relieved Goubasee of a large part of his load. - -The market was just over as I passed through Adiaboo. I tried to find -some man to guide me the short way of which Zaroo had told me, but -none of them would go, as they said it was a bad road, the stages were -long, and there was very little water. While I was talking to these -people a young man came up and said that he had letters for Rass Mayo, -which was the name I went by in Abyssinia; upon which my servants -told him he was to give them to me immediately. This was the man that -the head of the Mahomedan village had sent off with my letters. He had -sent them by the steamer and had brought me back letters from home. I -was delighted to get them, and for the rest of my march across the -large plain which lies between Adiaboo and Sememmar I occupied myself -in reading the good news from home. I had miscalculated the distance -from Adiaboo to Maihumloo; it was a great deal too far, and we had -started late, having been delayed in the market-place. I was getting -more and more exhausted, and it was rapidly becoming dark. Just as -night closed in a thunder-storm came on, Goubasee, who had been our -guide, completely lost his way, and I was dreadfully ill and weary, so -we had to stop in the middle of the jungle. I managed with great -difficulty to light a fire, and make a little soup out of Liebig's -extract of meat. The poor girl that had accompanied her father, who -was carrying some of my baggage, had sprained her ankle, or sustained -a similar injury, and it was a miserable sight to see her sitting -shivering over the fire and crying piteously with pain. I also -suffered very much from illness all night. - -_March 14._--At last morning came, and I determined to move on to -Maihumloo the first thing, in hopes of finding the donkeys with the -tent and some food. Some travellers came by, whom my servants rushed -at and despoiled of some of the bread they had with them; thus at any -rate my retinue ate some breakfast. I stopped at some houses, which -were only a very short way from the place where we had lain out for -the night, but during and after the thunder-storm it had been so dark -that we could not see around us. The inhabitants of these huts gave me -some eggs, which provided material for my breakfast. When I got to -Maihumloo there was no sign of either tent or donkeys, which had gone -on before us, so I stayed in the dry bed of a watercourse that was -very pleasantly shaded over. I succeeded in making a fire and cooking -my eggs for breakfast, and sent Goubasee off to look for the donkeys. -He seemed to think that they had gone on in front of us to the village -of Sememmar, so he went up there to look for them, and returned -without having found them; but shortly afterwards they all appeared. -Hadji Mahomet, who had charge of them, had taken good care not to -sleep out in the jungle like ourselves, but had halted in a village -not far off and stayed there for the night. I sent them on, in the -afternoon, to Sememmar, and from thence they were to go on to -Zadawalka. - -After the heat of the day, and when I had rested myself by lying in -the shade, I started after the tent and donkeys. I called at the -house of the chicker of the village of Sememmar, told him who I was, -and said that I wanted some chickens and eggs; he was very civil, and -gave them to me at once without any palaver. I asked him if he knew of -any news in the country, and I was told that they had heard that -Mimleck, the king of Shoa, with whom the king of Abyssinia was at war, -had fought and beaten Johannes, the king: I heard afterwards there was -no truth in this. Again I travelled on, and, after having passed the -place where the market of Sememmar is held, I came upon Hadji Mahomet -and the donkeys, with the tent pitched and everything ready. He told -me it would be impossible to go on to Zadawalka that day, so I -resolved to stop here, as everything was comfortable and there was -plenty to eat. Our encampment was just below a pretty little -Abyssinian church, which was surrounded by large Qualqual trees. Most -of the churches here are built in little groves of these queer-shaped -trees. - -_March 15._--I went to bed shortly after I got into camp last night, -and this morning I found myself better, yet still very ill. I think I -must have lost at least a stone in weight, having become dreadfully -thin. It was very pleasant to wake up and find oneself in a -comfortable little camp-bed, instead of being chilled and cold lying -by the half-consumed sticks of a small camp fire, my experience of -the previous day. Two donkeys were completely worn out, so the -servants recommended me to sell them here for what I could get. Some -of the villagers standing near were informed that I had donkeys for -sale; we had a short bargain over the matter, and at last the two went -for four dollars. My fortune, that was to last me until I got to -Massowah, where 100_l._ was awaiting me, now consisted of seven -dollars, and, as my readers will see later, I experienced great -inconvenience in consequence of not having more money with me. - -In the afternoon, having first started the remaining donkeys in front, -I went up to the village of Zadawalka. It was a long march, but very -pleasant and cool, the day being cloudy, and the country we were -travelling through furnished a succession of beautiful scenes. There -was a heavy thunder-shower in the middle of the day, which soaked us -through. On the way I had a shot with my Express at a jackal which -crossed the path, but I could not succeed in hitting so small an -animal with a bullet. Just after the rain had ceased, we crossed a -small stream; Goubasee, who was in front of me, suddenly stopped, and -I saw swimming slowly up the little river two fine geese. I jumped off -my mule, got my 16-bore gun, fired, and killed the gander. A cartridge -which had some time previously stuck in one of the barrels of my gun -obliged me to load again, and after my first shot the goose only flew -a short way up the river and dropped, when I bagged her too. These -were two lucky shots, as they provided me with fresh meat, of which I -stood in great need. Not long before I arrived at the village of -Zadawalka I saw five enormous hornbills feeding in a field close to -the path. They are called in Abyssinia Aba Gouma. They were an unusual -sight stalking about in different directions, and picking up what -insects and beetles they could find. - -When I got to Zadawalka I rode up at once to the Shum's house. I went -in and introduced myself, and said I wanted bread and lodging for our -party that night. By way of putting ourselves on a pleasant footing -with our new hosts, my followers, who I am sorry to say had now become -rather a rough set, seeing a jar of beer standing close by, -immediately seized it, handed it round, and the thirsty souls -swallowed the beverage almost before the rightful owner had time to -look about. The people of the house assured me I could not stop there -that night, but said they would provide me with a house a little way -off. I made them swear by the king's death, Johannesee Mut, which is -the form of oath in Abyssinia, that they would do what they promised. -The donkeys and tent did not appear, so I had to sleep in an -Abyssinian hut, where I could see the moon shining through the roof, -and insects and creeping things paid me unwelcome visits. The door of -this hut was so low that entrance had to be effected on the hands and -knees. Notwithstanding all these little inconveniences, I managed to -sleep pretty well, after a good dinner made of the two geese's livers, -which were both large and excellent, and brought to mind _pate de foie -gras_--without truffles. - -_March 16._--This morning I was not troubled with the very violent -pain which I usually experienced, and altogether I felt in better -condition. I asked the chief of the village if he could give me two -coolies to guide our party as far as Gundet, as I proposed adopting a -new and shorter route, which would save a day's march. He at length -found two men, who for two dollars each were to go with me; one dollar -each I had to pay before they started, and the balance was to be given -them on arrival. The villagers brought up plenty of fresh eggs for -breakfast--they were the only things which really seemed to agree with -me. A great crowd of Abyssinians watched me as I got up in the morning -and performed my toilet: what seemed to excite their attention most -was the operation of washing my teeth with a tooth-brush and some -charcoal. They could not make out what I could possibly be doing, as -their mode of cleaning their teeth is by chewing a stick and rubbing -their grinders with the frayed end. About eleven o'clock I started for -Adavartee. This village is only one day's march from Adowa; in fact, -from Adavartee you can see the peculiarly-shaped conical-pointed hill -which marks the neighbourhood of the Abyssinian capital. Before -reaching Adavartee I stopped at a house on the road which was tenanted -by very civil people, who brought my servants beer to drink. Petros -cooked some eggs and bacon for my lunch, after which we rested a -little while and then went on. We were unable to reach Adavartee at -all, but were obliged to stop at a village called Adoqual. The -donkeys, with the tent, came up just before it was dark, and, instead -of my having to sleep in the village, I moved to the tent outside, and -slept comfortably there. The geese were roasted for dinner, and proved -capital food. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[14] _Angareb_ is an Arabic word for an oblong framework raised on -legs; a network of raw hide is stretched on the frame, and the whole -forms the sort of bed that is used nearly all over the East. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - SELF-HELP -- SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS -- LAID-UP AGAIN -- A REUNION - -- HOSPITALITY -- AN OLD FRIEND -- AN ALARM -- ORDER OF BATTLE -- - A FIELD DAY -- "KIND ENQUIRIES" -- OLIVES AND OIL -- PURCHASE OF - A CLUB -- CATTLE PLAGUE -- AN INJUDICIOUS DINNER -- MY ILLNESS - INCREASES -- I HAVE TO BE CARRIED -- LUXURY OF A WASH -- I BUILD - A HOUSE -- THE SEA -- CIVILIZATION AGAIN. - - -_March 17._--I occupied myself this morning in cleaning up my guns and -pistols, which had not been looked at for the last three or four days. -This was a long, tiring affair, but I recommend all who are similarly -circumstanced to look to their fire-arms themselves, unless they have -a trustworthy European servant with them, as natives always manage to -do everything contrariwise, and spoil the very best weapons. I was now -much better in health, but still I suffered from bad diarrhoea. I -started for Gundet late in the afternoon; the consequence being that, -as it was a long march, we lost our way. Petros and Guyndem, whom I -had sent up to some villages to try to get eggs or chickens for my -dinner that night, happened to lose us completely, as we were -crossing the valley of the Mareb through a thick jungle. We crossed -the dry bed of the river near which, only much lower down, we had -previously encamped; darkness came on as we pushed through the jungle, -and we were overtaken by a thunder-storm in the same way we had been -before, and we were compelled to halt, as it had become pitch dark. We -succeeded in lighting a fire, but I had literally nothing to eat, as -Petros was carrying the few provisions of which I was possessed; the -only thing in the shape of food that I had was a bag of corn for my -mule. I made Goubasee roast some corn in the camp fire; this he picked -out of the ashes, and it constituted my dinner. These hardships would -have been bad enough to bear if I had been well, but in my weak state -of health they were very trying. I was terribly ill all night, and -very cold, as I had nothing to cover me but a cotton shama which I had -bought for a dollar at the village of Zadawalka, and, in the morning, -I was scarcely able to move. Another night like this would, I think, -have finished me, and my tale would have been unwritten. - -_March 18._--When daylight dawned my servants went up to some houses, -which, although close by, in the darkness we had not been able to see. -Petros and Guyndem appeared the first thing this morning, having -passed the night in the valley of the Mareb, in the jungle; Petros -assured me he slept very little, as he was afraid the lions would eat -him. The natives, who had heard I was ill, very kindly brought some -milk and eggs. We were close to a village called Aila Mareb, and I -determined, after about an hour or so, to push on to Gundet, so as to -complete the march that I had intended to do the day before. I was so -bad I could scarcely sit on my mule, but at length we arrived at -Gundet. I lay here under a tree for most of the day, completely -exhausted and worn out, and I managed to get a little sleep. During -most of the day the tree which I was under was surrounded by great -numbers of cattle, which seemed to think I was occupying their -favourite resting-place: there was water close by. They were -remarkably fine beasts for this part of the world, and I should think -at least a thousand head passed by the place where I was lying. A -little short Abyssinian came and squatted down close by me; he seemed -inclined to converse, so I sent for Petros, and we held a long -conversation on different subjects, which ended by my inducing him to -go for some preparation which is called Shirou, and is made from a -bean pounded up with red pepper. The Abyssinians eat this as a sort of -relish with their bread or meat. I do not suppose it was the best -thing I could have eaten, but still I had a fancy for it, as in -illness one often has for some questionable dainty. - -While I was lying under the tree a rather nicely-dressed Abyssinian -came up, followed by a couple of loaded mules and two servants. Petros -rushed up to him and embraced him. I asked who he was, and Petros -replied, "It is my brother, whom I have not seen for many years." I -believe, in reality, it was his step-brother. He was a merchant, who -had come from the Shoa country, and was going down to Massowah with -musk and gold. - -Since writing the above there has taken place in this very spot, -Gundet, a very severe battle between the Egyptians and Abyssinians, -and I cannot help thinking that it was owing to the nature and -conformation of the ground that the forces of Egypt, 2000 in number, -were so completely overwhelmed and destroyed by their enemies. Before -reaching Gundet, that is to say, on the road from Massowah, the -country is all flat table-land, when suddenly the ground drops, and -Gundet lies in a narrow valley, with high cliffs on each side of it. -An army marching right down into this defile would easily be -surrounded, and its retreat cut off. Probably the Abyssinians let the -Egyptians descend the steep hill, and then encountered them, when the -only thing remaining for the invaders to do was to fight it out to the -last. But it seems incredible to me that a force of 2000 should march -right into the jaws of an enemy without seemingly having the least -intimation of their being near. The Abyssinians are stated to have -mustered 30,000 strong, and I am sure my old friend Kirkham would have -taken every advantage of the locality and the ground. The hatred of -the Abyssinians to the Turk, as they call the Egyptians, was in this -case very well exemplified, as nearly every one of the latter was -killed, and among them Arrekel Bey, whose loss, as a kind friend, I -very much deplore and lament, for nobody could have been more civil -and courteous than he was when we were at Massowah. - -I cannot help here quoting a letter of mine, dated May 7th, 1875, -published in the 'Pall Mall Gazette' shortly after my arrival in -England. At the end of the letter I state what I thought would happen -if Egyptians and Abyssinians came in conflict in the country of the -latter, and it turns out my prognostication has not been falsified by -events:-- - - -"Having only just returned to England from travelling in Abyssinia, I -happened to see a letter copied from the 'Cologne Gazette,' and -commented on in your paper of the 13th of April last. The -correspondent of the 'Cologne Gazette' must be misinformed, I think, -on some of the subjects he writes about. First, the writer designates -King Johannes, the king of Abyssinia, 'as but a poor actor by the side -of a real hero,' i.e., comparing him with Theodore, the late king. -King Johannes has totally subjugated his country and the rebels that -were in it. The people cultivate their land in peace, and tranquillity -prevails. As for his subjects being in a state of chronic rebellion, -it is not the case; let any one who doubts this travel through the -country, and judge for himself. Secondly, the 'Cologne Gazette' says, -with regard to Colonel Kirkham, 'that all his attempts to improve the -country have failed.' Now, as every one knows, with nothing, nothing -can be done. Colonel Kirkham was living with me for a month, and has -often told me the first thing to be done in Abyssinia is to make and -improve the roads. He has often tried to persuade King Johannes to do -this, but the king will not spend a farthing and keeps his money -hoarded up. Thirdly, with regard to the missionaries at Gindar, it is -so far true that General Kirkham, to whom Gindar has been given by the -king, allowed the missionaries to build a house there. I never heard -anything of the Abyssinians threatening to kill the missionaries and -burn their houses. I passed through Gindar myself on the 25th of March -last; the missionaries' house was standing still, but the missionaries -had left, one of their number having died of fever after the rains, so -they moved to a healthier place. Fourthly, the article now ends by -saying that 'a struggle of the undisciplined and badly-armed -Abyssinians with Egyptian troops would be hopeless.' Now, the -Egyptians would have to fight through mountain passes and hills--a -warfare well suited to Abyssinian tactics, and not one that Egyptian -troops would either appreciate or well understand. The Abyssinians are -just as well armed as the Afghans were when we fought against them on -the frontiers of India. The name of the Turk is hated in Abyssinia, -and used as an epithet of opprobrium." - - -In the afternoon I started on the road to Adgousmou, and climbed the -abruptly steep hill at the top of which, if my readers remember, Borum -Braswouldeselassie took leave of us. The table-land on which I found -myself is called Serai, and is celebrated for its fertility. I -travelled on, and stopped by some water, a little way beyond the -village of Adwahla. The servants were rather annoyed at stopping away -from the village, as there was not any shelter near, and I had only -just erected the tent when a fearful thunder-storm came down on us; -luckily, my bed and things were inside, and so everything was all dry, -but the wretched servants got wet through and through, and it was with -great difficulty that Ali kindled a fire with cattle-dung for fuel, as -no sticks or wood could be got anywhere near. - -_March 19._--This morning Goubasee was laid up with a bad leg, which I -thought proceeded from rheumatism combined with hard work. I hoped he -would not break down altogether, as he was an excellent servant, and -he had been of the greatest use to me. I sent Guyndem, my other -gun-bearer, up to the neighbouring village, and some villagers very -kindly brought brown bread and milk, for myself and my followers. This -was very hospitable of them, as, on most occasions, villagers took no -notice of messages brought by one's Abyssinian servants, and it was -very often with great difficulty we got provisions even by applying in -person. To-day several caravans passed the camp on their way down to -the coast. These caravans are just beginning to travel; but it is -during the rains that most of them go through the country, so as to -arrive at Massowah in June or July, at the time it is hottest on the -coast, and when most of the business is transacted. - -I started after breakfast for Koudoofellassie, and arrived at -nightfall at the door of Borum Bras.'s house; I found himself and -household all at dinner. This was a time of fasting with the -Abyssinians, when they do not eat during the day, but only after -sunset. I had sent on word by a native, who said he was going to -Koudoofellassie, to tell Borum Bras. that I was coming, but evidently -the man had not delivered the message, and I was not in the least -expected. But it seemed that I was no unwelcome guest, for directly -one of the servants saw me he went in and told Borum Bras. I had -arrived. I was led in by the hand, and was truly glad to see this -Abyssinian chief, as he had been very kind and hospitable to us on our -way to the Tackazzee, and I hoped he might help me to get to the -coast. After they had finished their dinner, he sent away his -household, and had a fire lighted for me inside the hut. I was wet -through, cold as well as ill, and was very glad of the warmth. I told -Borum Bras. all that happened, how unlucky I had been, and that now I -was on my way home on account of illness. He was exceedingly civil and -kind, and asked what he could prepare for me for my dinner. Out of -beans his wife made me a sort of cake, which was very good, and he -also gave me some "tej." My donkeys, with the tent, etc., came up -later, but I resolved to sleep in the hut in which I was. I -accordingly turned in, but it was of no use trying to get any rest, as -the hut in which I reposed was, as a rule, not only used as a -dining-room but also as a stable, and the horses munching their food -during the night kept me awake. Sundry small animals of the insect -tribe seemed to like the taste of the blood of a white man; it might -have been a change for them; it certainly was a change for me, and, in -my already weak state, unbearable; so, about one o'clock in the -morning, I made my servants get up and pitch my tent, and there I went -to bed, and slept well the rest of the night. - -_March 20._--This morning Borum Bras. got me a messenger, and I sent -down letters to the French Consul, as well as to the Governor of -Massowah, telling the latter that I was ill, very likely to be a day -or two late for the steamer, and begging of him to keep the boat -waiting for me, if possible. Whilst I was taking my breakfast, and -whilst Borum Bras. was talking to me and inquiring after my general -health, there was suddenly a shout, the chief started up and rushed -off to his house close by. All the people of the town ran to their -houses and armed themselves, and the women stood on the tops of the -houses screeching their peculiar cry to call out the men. The cause of -the commotion was that a robber, who lived near this district, had -attacked an outlying village, and had carried off some cows and killed -a man. All the inhabitants turned out and formed themselves in battle -array in two lines outside the town. The mode in which Abyssinians go -to fight is rather a curious one: the men that are lucky enough to -possess guns are placed in the front rank in one long line, and behind -them are those that have only spears and shields--this line is -generally three or four deep. I caused my mule to be saddled, took my -gun, and rode out to see if there was any chance of a fight taking -place. It was very amusing to see a little fellow strutting up and -down opposite this armed rabble and haranguing them, calling upon them -to fight well and to follow Borum Bras. their chief; telling them, in -so many words, they were the bravest of the brave, and there were no -heroes in the world like them. Then something like a word of command -was given, and the whole of the men moved forward a little, shouting -and yelling, then they squatted down again. I asked if there was any -chance of seeing this robber, or of his coming here. An old Mahomedan, -who seemed wiser than the rest, informed me that there was not the -slightest likelihood of his coming to attack Koudoofellassie, as the -people were much too numerous. I went back to camp and got my things -packed up, as I intended to march to Terramnee that day. - -When all was ready I started off, and found that the army of -Koudoofellassie had moved some little way outside the town. Borum -Bras. and his attendants, on horseback, might be seen in the distance -going through a variety of extraordinary evolutions, galloping hither -and thither, making a pretence of spearing people. When I came up to -the crowd I found the women of the village were going about with large -jars of water to quench the thirst of their husbands and relatives, -and some of them had brought out food; they were evidently going to -make a day of it. I took leave of Borum Bras. with much regret; he -rode a little way on the road with me, and then we parted. I arrived -at Terramnee shortly before sunset, sent for Tuckloo, a former -acquaintance of mine and the chicker of the village, and asked for -some eggs for my dinner. He brought me a few rotten eggs, which I had -much pleasure in smashing on the stones before him to prove their -condition; he then went back and obtained some fresh ones. I made -myself an omelette; and my donkeys, with the bedding, etc., having -come up, I had my tent pitched a little distance outside the village. - -_March 21._--This morning I received a visit from one of Borum Bras.'s -servants, whom he had started off very early to inquire after me and -see how I was getting on. This was very kind of him; and this man also -ordered the chicker to give me what eggs, etc., I wanted, and then -left the village. After he had gone, this same chicker seemed to think -it quite unnecessary to take any notice of me, and I received no -provisions; so, as a flock of goats was passing by my tent, I took the -liberty of catching a kid, tender and young, and handed it over to Ali -to cook, who soon cut its throat, and kid cutlets were very shortly -frying in the pan for my breakfast. I had hardly eaten the last of -them when the owner of the goats came up and made a great noise, -saying he must be paid. I told him I had not the slightest intention -of paying him anything, as he had been ordered to supply me with food, -and a young kid was very little out of a large flock. Eventually the -affair was settled, and it was agreed the villagers should bear the -loss of the kid between them. The meat was a great change for me, as I -had been living mostly on eggs and chickens for the last week. I -started about mid-day for Deevaroua. It was very hot crossing the -plain which lay between this village and Terramnee. I went past -Deevaroua and halted for a short time below it, under the shade of a -large tree that grew by the bank of the Mareb, which is here quite a -little stream. I tried to get two natives to carry some of my things -down to Massowah, but they refused to do so unless they were paid in -advance. I assured them I had plenty money at Massowah, but they would -not believe me, and I had not enough coin with me to pay them. - -I do not think I was ever so much annoyed in my life as I was on this -occasion with these two men. I felt inclined to give them both a -thrashing; but it is very lucky I restrained my temper as, otherwise, -it is very likely I should have had the whole village down upon me, -and perhaps would not have got so well out of it as I did out of my -last scrape. One certainly does feel very helpless without money, no -matter where one finds oneself, and this fact, combined with my -prostrate condition (of which, no doubt, these men knew as well as I -did), rendered me incapable of much exertion. So I had to make up my -mind to get my already rather weary servants to carry the things; and -the proverb, "Money makes the mare to go," came bitterly home to me. - -After resting myself, I rode towards the village of Chickut, which -was, my readers will remember, the scene of my night march on our way -to the Tackazzee. The country through which I passed presented a -beautiful appearance--one continual grove of wild olive-trees, and -great Qualquals dotted here and there. This part was not at all -cultivated, yet I should think that these olives, if properly trained -and cared-for, would make a valuable property; but the natives of -Abyssinia have no idea of making oil from the berries. This place is -only four days from the coast, and transport of the oil, when made, -would not be very expensive. I was very ill all the day, and in the -afternoon was so bad that I had to get off my mule and rest under a -tree. When I arrived at Chickut I pitched my tent close to a little -Coptic church. The village is built on a high hill, and the houses are -not like those in the other part of Abyssinia through which I had been -travelling; they were flat-roofed, and the walls were built with -stones, whereas the ordinary form of huts was a round wall with an -extinguisher-shaped roof. It was very cold here, and directly the tent -was pitched and my bed made ready I turned into it, and caused my -dinner to be brought to me as I lay between the blankets. I find this -entry in my journal: "I am not worse, but still very ill. Thank God, I -am getting near the end of this awful journey! The chicker here was -very kind, and gave my servants abundance of bread for themselves and -a chicken for me." - -_March 22_: _Chickut._--The people here are all busy putting a roof on -the little Coptic church, close by which I had encamped, and the work -is done amidst much chattering and talking. I heard from some -merchants yesterday that Arrekel Bey, the Governor, had come back to -Massowah; so I hope, if this is true, he will keep the steamer for me -if I am late. I sent on some of my servants to Beatmohar, K.'s house, -to-day, to let his boy Waldemariam know that I was coming, so as to -make everything ready for me. Hadji Mahomet was behind with the rest -of my donkeys, and I was afraid they would not arrive at Massowah in -time to catch the steamer. I started in the afternoon and climbed the -steep hill which lies between Chickut and the table-land of Asmarra. -It was a lovely view as we ascended, and looked even more charming in -the daytime than it had looked in the light of a tropical moon, the -condition under which we last saw it. I passed by Sellaadarou, the -place where we had encamped, and saw the remaining marks of the two -large bonfires we had made. After leaving this place I met some -natives on the road; one of them was carrying in his hand a club made -of the wild olive wood: it was a beautifully-shaped weapon, and I -induced him, after great persuasion, to sell it to me for a dollar. He -would not hear of parting with it at first, but some of his companions -told him he was a great fool not to sell it, as he could get many -others, and a dollar was a good price for the stick. - -Travelling on, I found myself on the large plain of Asmarra. -Notwithstanding the precautions the people had taken the cattle -disease had got among their beasts, and I saw several lying down, -stretched out, dying by the side of the pools. The wind blew cold as I -crossed the plain, and I wrapped the cotton shama that I had tightly -round me. We were a small and wretched-looking party, as we wound our -way slowly across this bare tableland; the hardships and long journeys -had told pretty severely upon all of us. I thought the plain would -never cease, and K.'s little house, with the extinguisher-shaped roof, -rose up in the distance, but seemed to get farther from me. To my -astonishment, among some stunted bushes I saw two gazelles grazing. I -alighted and successfully stalked one, but missed him as he bounded -away. I was too weak and ill for shooting, so I mounted my mule again -and soon found myself under the welcome shelter of K.'s little house. -Waldemariam had got everything ready for me, and some fresh baked -bread, which was a great luxury. We had left a box of provisions -behind here, which I immediately broke into, and to my great joy I -found two bottles of claret and other provisions which we had brought -up here. I made my dinner of fresh bread, fried sardines, and a bottle -of claret--just about the very worst diet I could have taken under the -circumstances; the consequence being that I was terribly ill all -night. - -_March 23._--About four in the morning I heard a cry outside in the -village, and then a wailing and lamentation, mixed up with donkeys -braying and cocks crowing. It transpired that an old man, who had been -ill for some time, had just died. This was an unpleasant thing to -happen, and was not calculated to raise my spirits under the -circumstances in which I was placed. Later in the morning a brother of -Naib Abdul Kerim came to see me. The Naib was the man who brought us -up here, and who arranged for the transport of our luggage on -bullocks and mules. His brother asked me if he could be of any use, as -he had heard I was ill; it was very kind of him, and he proved of -great service. I told him that I should be very much obliged if he -could get me men from the village to carry me down to the coast, for I -was now becoming so extremely weak that I really thought another two -days' riding would have polished me off. Accordingly he went into the -village and obtained twelve or fourteen men. I borrowed a large -angareb from one of the villagers, and caused them to fix two long -poles to it, so that it could be carried on men's shoulders. I had no -money with me, but luckily K. had left behind a sum of money, and I -took the liberty of borrowing some dollars from him to pay the -coolies, as these people always insist upon half the agreed sum being -paid in advance. I sent forward letters to the French Consul and the -Governor, again asking them, in case I should be late, to keep the -steamer waiting for me. - -On Saturday, about four o'clock in the morning, I was carried very -comfortably down to Maihenzee, our old camping-place, where we had -passed such a wet night on our way up here; I now passed a comfortable -night and felt better. Naib Abdul Kerim's brother brought some coffee -with him, of which he gave me a portion, which I think improved me. - -The manner of making coffee is rather peculiar, and merits -description. When on the march, and travelling in Abyssinia, the -natives carry a bag of unroasted berries; taking a few of the grains -out of the bag, they put them on a little mat, and then scrape some -hot wood-ashes out of the fire; these they mix with the coffee-grains, -and then shaking the mat up and down, much in the same way as one sees -a groom shaking a sieve of oats to get the dust from them, the coffee -becomes gradually roasted. I believe that they know when it is -sufficiently done by the smell. Then the coffee is put between two -stones and ground to powder; or, if they happen to have a small pestle -and mortar, that is used. The ground coffee is then put into a little -earthenware vase--one can hardly call it a jar as it has a long -neck--water is poured into the vessel, which is put to boil on the -fire. When sufficiently heated, some fibre is crammed in the mouth of -it to prevent the coffee-grounds from coming out into the cup; then -some of those little Turkish cups are produced, and the coffee poured -out and drunk. Drinking coffee in these regions is quite a little -ceremony, and is generally the time when the most important affairs -are discussed, and compliments are exchanged. I may as well say that -some of the best coffee I have ever tasted was made in the way -described. Why is it so hard to get good coffee in England? One great -secret, I am sure, is that every time it is made the berries ought to -be fresh roasted and fresh ground. - -_March 24._--This morning I enjoyed the luxury of a really good wash -in hot water, in my little tin basin, having found some soap in K.'s -house. I had been without soap for several days, and I was disgusted -to find that specimens of the entomology which infests Abyssinians and -their houses had transferred their attentions to myself. I hope that -none of my readers will ever have to experience, especially in a hot -country, the total inability of washing oneself properly. - -If there is one thing that is pleasant, and I may say almost a luxury, -it is the power of having a really good wash. When one is leading a -rough life, one misses the morning tub of civilized life. Even on -reaching the Tackazzee, the waters of the river looked inviting for a -swim; an indulgence in this pastime would be made in the face of the -fact of there being a chance, and indeed a very good one, of being -snapped up by a crocodile, which would have been an unpleasant and -abrupt termination to a trip undertaken from motives of pleasure and -sport. The only place where bathing was practicable was the shallow -ford, and during most of the day our native servants might have been -seen paddling and splashing about in the shallow water, much to their -delight and amusement. I am sure it did them all a great deal of -good, Abyssinians, as a rule, not being fond of water applied -externally. The not very delicious odour experienced on going amongst -them is a sufficient guarantee of this statement. - -Whilst I was sitting outside my tent an Armenian merchant, who, my -servants told me, went by the name of Bogos, passed by with several -mule loads of ivory; he had come from the Shoa country, and he was one -of the best-looking men whom I had ever seen; very fair, at least in -comparison with Abyssinians, and dressed in the costume of the -country. He informed me that the steamer was expected to-day, which -was its proper day; and I hoped to arrive in time for it, as, if I -could stand the journey, I should be at Massowah to-morrow. I had -found an old copy of Milton in K.'s house, and so I passed the morning -in reading 'Comus,' which I enjoyed very much. - -I left Maihenzee about mid-day. It was very curious to observe the -change in the vegetation at the top of the pass; the coast rains had -ceased on the side nearest Massowah, and everything on that side was -green and beautiful, whilst in the part I had just traversed the -ground was completely dried up, and bushes and trees were bare. I -stopped at Mehdet and procured something to eat, then I travelled on -and got to Gindar about 8 P.M., feeling very tired and ill, although -the men had carried me well. I sent for Aristides, the Greek, who was -still here building a house. He was very glad to see me, and he told -me in broken French that I looked very ill, and that he would -accompany me next day into Massowah. K., to whom Gindar belongs, had -presented me with some land--the whole side of a mountain, and a small -hill in the valley; and I engaged Aristides to build me a small house, -so if I should go to Abyssinia again I shall have a place to live in. -In exchange for this land which K. gave me, I promised to send him out -a box-full of the seeds of all our English vegetables. - -_March 25_: _Gindar._--This little valley is looking very beautiful, -all the vegetation green and sprouting, and the grass up to one's -knees; the whole air is alive with bees and insects in quest of honey -from the flowers. - -How changed was everything since the last time I was here! In my -former visits I was full of hopeful expectation, looking forward to -pleasant adventures and good sport; and now I was returning completely -knocked down by illness, and counting the hours which would elapse -before my arrival at the coast. The scene was even brighter and more -glorious than when I had left it; but, alas! I scarcely possessed the -power to appreciate it, and certainly I could not enjoy it. Aristides -breakfasted with me this morning, and I killed a sheep and presented -him with the meat. He promised me that, after I had left the country, -he would look after things at Gindar. I proposed that he should take -the eggs from the guinea-fowl, which abound here, and put them under -hens, so as to bring them up tame; as, if they were fattened and kept -in a civilised state, they would be excellent eating. I should also -like to try the experiment of introducing rabbits, which I am sure -would do very well, yet perhaps too well, so as to eat up every green -thing. - -I started in the afternoon for Massowah, having arranged that I should -be carried to a place called Maital, on a different road from that -which we had come by, but the usual one for merchants. I reached -Maital about dark, halted for an hour, obtained something to eat, and -slept for awhile; then I lay on my angareb, and I was carried off -again all through the night. I thought the darkness would never come -to an end, and, towards morning, quite exhausted, notwithstanding the -jolting of the angareb, I fell asleep, and woke up just at dawn: we -were close to the village of Moncullu. The cocks were crowing, and -some of the people might be seen moving about. When we arrived here my -coolies actually began running along with me, and singing and -laughing. These men had been marching for more than fourteen hours, -and during that time had eaten scarcely anything at all! As I -approached Massowah I saw in the distance a steamer lying in the -harbour; this was indeed a great joy to me, as now I should speedily -get home. I was carried into Massowah more dead than alive. I went -first to the Divan, and found that Arrekel Bey was away, but the -acting governor knew I was coming, and put me into some rooms over the -telegraph office. M. de Sarzec, the French Consul, came to see me, -after I had eaten some breakfast; he was very civil and kind, but he -said it was very lucky I had arrived at the time that I did as the -steamer was a day late, and, in the absence of the Governor, the man -who was acting for him would not have dared to keep the boat waiting. -I dined in the evening with the French Company, a mercantile house of -which M. de Lanfrey is the manager. They keep all kinds of stores, -such as beads, cotton cloth, silk, sugar, etc., which are sold to the -Abyssinian merchants, who take them up the country. The dinner was -very pleasant, and it was agreeable to have the opportunity of talking -to white men again, after having led the life of a savage for some -little time. - -Before finishing the account of my journey up the Red Sea, I must beg -my readers to go back into Abyssinia with me, and try to follow the -sort of sport my friend H. had been having, and did have, since we -parted. He wrote me a letter, saying that directly he had received my -note from Azho, dated the 12th of March, and found that I was so ill, -he came straight up from the Mareb, and started off with Fisk and Brou -for Adiaboo. He arrived there on the 15th, hoping to meet me; but they -told him--which he was very sorry to hear--that I was two days in -front of him, and also making long marches in order to reach Massowah -in time for the steamer. He saw it was useless going on, and so -returned that same evening to Adaajerra, which was better known to us -by the name of Barrakee's village. On his way back he met with a most -unpleasant adventure. It may be remembered by my readers that, on our -former visit, Zardic, the old chief of Adiaboo, was excessively rude -to us, and we believed it was owing to him that our donkeys were -stolen, and also that so large a price was charged for the ones that -we bought. H. was travelling quietly along with Fisk and three -servants, when suddenly he heard a yelling and shouting, and three or -four hundred Abyssinians, with Zardic at their head, rushed down upon -them, pulled them off their mules, and began beating them with sticks -and spears, and poking their guns into their ribs. This was far from -pleasant, and, after it was all over, H. and his party were more dead -than alive. I am afraid that I was unjustly the cause of this little -_contretemps_, as Zardic swore that I had knocked down a man at Azho, -and then shot at him, and, as they could not catch me, because I -passed so quickly through Adiaboo, they thought they would assail H., -as they considered he was just as bad. A few days after the assault by -Zardic and his men, H. wrote to Rass Baria, the chief of Tigre, a -letter of complaint, and, later on, wrote to the King himself about -it. He subsequently heard there was a tremendous "row" about all this, -and that Zardic was going to be chained, and the governorship of the -province taken away from him. I think the punishment very just, and -well merited by this chief. - -During H.'s first excursion to the Mareb he shot 4 buffaloes, 1 -leopard, 1 wadembie (which is a much larger kind of deer than either -hagazin or hartebeest), also 1 very large turtle, and 2 crocodiles. -This was certainly very good sport, and how I afterwards regretted I -was not able to be with him to swell the bag! This was before he came -up to try and join me at Adiaboo; when he left Adiaboo, he went to the -Cassoua and Sherraro plains. There he shot 8 tora (hartebeest), 3 of -them being very large and fine animals, 1 hagazin, and 2 pigs. Also, -he says in his letter to me, that he killed "any number" of small -game, partridges, &c. These plains, according to his account, swarm -with all varieties of antelope, and, in fact, he seems to have seen a -great deal more game than we did in any other part of Abyssinia. He -stayed there twelve days, and then went back to Barrakee's village for -a day and a half to get flour and provisions for himself and servants; -after which he again went down to the Mareb, and stayed there till the -11th of April, and would have remained longer, but the rains had just -begun, and he was afraid of fever. Of course his great object was to -get a lion, and for six successive nights he sat up watching over an -old bullock--a beast that we had brought down to the Tackazzee with -us, and one of those which was so nearly drowned in crossing over that -river. On the sixth night a lion pounced upon the buffalo, and H. shot -it as dead as a door-nail. Naturally he was very pleased, as he very -truly said that he would not have liked to leave Africa without having -shot either a lion or an elephant. There was great rejoicing in camp -next morning among his servants, as Abyssinians think a great deal of -shooting a lion, although the king of beasts does not stand so high in -scale with them as the elephant. He said Barrakee stayed with him the -whole time, and turned out a first-rate guide that knew every inch of -the country, and I am sure H. never regretted having kept him. He -gave him Fisk's gun as a present on leaving, which delighted him very -much. H. had on one occasion saved his life. Barrakee got knocked down -by a wounded buffalo, and the beast was just going to trample him to -pieces, when H. came up and shot it dead; the consequence being that -Barrakee was only laid up for a couple of days with a stiff neck, -instead of being gored to death. This man was, on the whole, the best -specimen of an Abyssinian we had anything to do with while we were in -the country. He had been taught a good deal by the missionaries, and -he remembered the Powell who, some of my readers may remember, was -murdered by the Shangalla tribe some time ago. Altogether Barrakee -turned out a most useful and faithful servant to us. In addition to -the lion H. shot 8 more buffaloes, 1 wadembie, 12 tora, and some -gazelles. On the 11th of April he started for Adowa. Alas! when he got -there he found that no attention had been paid to the orders we had -given for shields and black leopard skins. He tried all over the town -to get them, but could not procure one. Rass Baria, who lived at -Adowa, had left, with most of the population of the town, to join the -king, who was fighting a _shifter_, or robber, near Dembellas; so -nothing could be done, and the man to whom we had sent the order said -he could not make the shields without the money. When H. went to try -and see him he found that, like all the rest, he had gone with Rass -Baria to the king. H. stopped a day at Adowa, and then went straight -on to Massowah. - -His bag on the whole, that is to say, of large game, was as follows: 1 -lion, 12 buffaloes, 20 hartebeest, 2 hagazin, 2 wadembie, 1 leopard, 1 -large deer with straight horns, 36 gazelles, 1 very large crocodile, 2 -pigs, and an enormous turtle; of course any amount of guinea fowl and -partridges. He says, "As for hartebeest and buffalo, at Sherraro and -on the Mareb, you can go out and shoot as many as ever you like; upon -my word, they are more like cows than anything else. I saved all the -best heads and skins, and shall send them home from Suez. I cannot -tell you how glad I am that I went down to the Mareb. Day after day I -watched for elephant and rhinoceros, but I never even got a shot at -one, and as for rhinoceros I never even saw a track of one." This -information as regards the rhinoceros is rather curious, and only -shows that they must be much farther west, in fact, in the country -which was explored by Sir Samuel Baker. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - FRENCH FRIENDS -- ON BOARD -- COMPARATIVE COMFORT -- A QUEER FISH - -- A DINNER PARTY -- A CARGO OF GAZELLES -- ROUGH WEATHER -- - VOYAGE TO SUEZ -- AND ARRIVAL. - - -_March 27_: _Massowah_.--I was very ill all night, and this morning I -went to the French Company to get myself some clothes, as what I had -on were rather curious garments after the journey. I also bought some -stores for the voyage, and two fine elephants' tusks, which were -evidently not Abyssinian ivory, as they were much too large. The -Abyssinian elephants have very small tusks, and the ivory does not -command a very high price. I was afraid my donkeys would not come up -till after the steamer had sailed, but M. de Sarzec promised me to -have all my things packed up and sent on. I may as well tell my -readers that eventually everything arrived safe in England, in as good -condition as I left it when last I saw it in Abyssinia. I lunched with -the French Consul, who entertained us most liberally and produced some -very good "tej," which he makes himself. I went to the French -Company's house in the afternoon; it overlooked the sea, and observing -a boat coming up alongside, I hailed it. An Englishman was sitting in -the stern, who turned out to be Mr. Cordock, the engineer of the S.S. -_Massowah_. I asked him to come into the house and speak to me, told -him that I was going away by the steamer to Suez, and that I had been -very ill. The boat was to sail the next day, so that evening he dined -with me at the French Company's, and we went off to the ship together. -He gave up his cabin to me, and he was altogether most kind and -considerate. - -My only fellow-passenger was an ex-French naval captain, who had been -sent out by a mercantile house in Paris to look for guano amongst the -islands in the Red Sea. He had been cruising about for ten days in an -open native boat, called a sambouk, from island to island, but had not -succeeded in finding what he wanted, and was now returning to Paris. -He happened to have a servant who was an excellent cook. This man was -half a Syrian and half a Frenchman, and on the voyage up to Suez he -cooked all our meals for us. - -_March 28, Sunday._--The ship was to sail to-day, but there was an -additional quantity of hides to take in. They were gradually crowding -up the deck with this stinking cargo, which had been accumulating at -Massowah for some time, the government in Egypt not allowing merchants -to ship these hides to Suez, as there was cattle disease at the time -in Abyssinia. I sat on the deck most of the day, enjoying the cool and -pleasant breeze of the harbour. Just before dinner M. de Sarzec came -to see me, and I persuaded him to stay and dine with us; he was very -entertaining, and he told us a long story of how he had very nearly -been murdered by the natives at Fogera, in the south of Abyssinia. -This is the place where Consul Plowden, some time before, had been -killed. I wrote letters to K., and gave them to Goubasee to take to -Adowa. I likewise left some money behind with the French Consul for -H., on his return to Massowah. - -_March 29._--At daybreak the steamer sailed for Suez. I was better -to-day, as an Arab doctor of Massowah had given me some opium and -ipecacuanha. This had improved me, as also, probably, the change to -sea air had a great deal to do with it. The engineer's cabin was on -deck, and so I was as comfortable as I well could be on the dirty -little steamer. I had laid in a stock of provisions at Massowah, and -had also brought down two small sheep from Asmarra; so with the help -of the Syrian cook we promised not to fare badly. - -_March 30._--I was a little better this morning, and during the day, -but in the evening after dinner I was taken dreadfully ill, in fact, I -believed I was at the point of death. The ship anchored for the night, -as is generally the custom with these steamers, the day after leaving -Massowah, for they are cruising about amongst coral reefs, which are -exceedingly dangerous. Whenever we anchored, the sailors all set to -work fishing, catching numbers of peculiar-shaped and strange-coloured -monsters. - -_March 31._--I am better to-day, and we all dined on the upper deck as -it was very hot below. We had a most unusual fish for dinner; he was -like a perch, only perfectly red, and the spiky fin on his back was of -a very beautiful scarlet colour. To-day the French captain showed me -the charts of his voyages amongst the islands of the Red Sea, which he -had made in an Arab boat with a crew of three men and his servant. -There is a very heavy dew at night here, but we all three sat talking -till late, Cordock, the engineer, produced some rum, which I am sorry -to say I am not allowed to drink, but the French captain seemed to -enjoy it very much. The second officer of the ship, an Egyptian of the -name of Hassain, is a very intelligent man; he has been with ships -several times to London, and he talks a little English. - -_April 1._--We arrived at Souakim about 9 o'clock in the morning, -having anchored, for the night before, inside a reef. I sent for the -doctor, Achmet Effendi, who came to see me. He was a very intelligent -and clever young man, and he spoke French very well, having been seven -years in Paris studying his profession. Ali Effendi, the agent of the -steamship company, came off to see me; he is a great friend of A.'s, -and seemed a capital good fellow. I gave them all a little dinner in -the evening. The table was laid on the forecastle, and was lighted up -with about twenty little lamps, which Ali Effendi kindly provided. Our -party consisted of Ali Effendi, the company's agent; Achmet Effendi, -the young doctor; Mustapha, the captain of the ship; Hassain, the -second officer; the French captain; Mr. Cordock, the engineer; and -myself. Dinner went off capitally, and our party all seemed to enjoy -themselves very much. They drank all the coffee in the ship that was -ready ground, and ate a large quantity of sweet things. I sent into -the town of Souakim to try and get a minstrel to enliven us, but the -musical instrument on which he played was broken, the minstrel was -asleep, and the ship's stoker, a Copt, whom I had sent to fetch him, -came back quite drunk. After my unsuccessful attempt to entertain the -company I went to bed, and I believe the party still went on drinking -coffee and smoking cigars _ad libitum_. We here took on board a -number of gazelles and ariels. This is a speculation of an American, -named Philipo, who hopes to sell them for large prices in Egypt. The -animals are housed in pens on the fore part of the ship and covered -over with mats, as what they suffer from most at sea is cold. I am -picking up Arabic very fast, and I think, in a short time I should be -able to talk like a native. The engineer nurses me and takes the -greatest care of me; in fact, I do not know what I should do without -him. - -_April 2._--We left Souakim at eight o'clock in the morning; nothing -of importance occurred to-day; we had head winds and a strong sea. - -_April 3._--It blew rather hard, and the ship swayed about. We dined -in the engineer's little cabin amidships, where the motion has not so -much effect. Our cook is prostrated with sea-sickness, as well as most -of the crew; in fact, all these Arab sailors are generally sick when -it comes on to blow. The engineer, the French captain, and myself were -the only people who had not succumbed to this malady. - -_April 4._--At sea to-day it blew very hard, and we made but little -way, it was resolved, therefore, that if it should continue to blow -to-morrow we would anchor inside Ras Benas, a large headland on the -west side of the Red Sea. Here may be seen the ruins of the old -Egyptian town of Berenice. - -_April 5._--We were at anchor south of Ras Benas, and sheltered by the -headland, but the captain would not go near the mainland, as the pilot -did not know that the entrance into the small harbour is here. This -was a great disappointment to me, as I should much have liked to land -and see the ruins of Berenice. The country is inhabited, and further -inland gazelles and deer are found; there is also some vegetation, -including mimosa bushes. Cordock and I went out in the evening in the -captain's gig to try to catch some fish, but we only got a good -tossing among the reefs, yet I think the fresh breeze was beneficial -to me. - -_April 6._--We are still at anchor under Ras Benas, it is blowing so -hard. The captain gave us and his officers a breakfast in Egyptian -fashion: it was very good, some of the dishes being quite original to -me. - -_April 7._--We weighed anchor at seven o'clock in the morning, it was -blowing very hard, and the captain wished to stay here till the wind -dropped, but Cordock induced him to go on, as he knew I was ill and -wanted to get home as quickly as possible. The Arabs are dreadful -cowards in a storm, and when they find themselves in one they -generally begin praying, and doing nothing else. I was a little -stronger, but still very ill with a bad diarrhoea. - -_April 8._--We had no chutney to eat with our curry and rice, so I -amused myself to-day by making some. It resulted in a complete -success, and proved very good. The principal ingredients were some -tomatos which the cook had bought for me at Souakim. At two o'clock -to-day we were abreast of the Brothers, two low coral islands, and -quite chief features of the Red Sea; the P. & O. Company have put a -flag-staff on the larger one. A gale was blowing very hard, and -Cordock hoped to make Shadwan that night, which is a large island at -the mouth of the Gulf of Suez, with a high mountain on it that can be -seen for thirty miles. I hope to arrive at Suez on the 10th. It blew -so hard, however, that we could not get on at all, so on the morning -of the 9th we anchored at Tur, after having passed a very stormy -night. When Cordock came to me in the morning, he informed me that the -ship had very nearly been lost off the island of Shadwan; it was -blowing tremendously hard at the time, and we were on a lee-shore; the -steering-gear gave way, and the ship went round before the wind. All -the Arabs lost their heads, but Cordock, with the help of his -assistant-engineer and the Syrian cook, put things right. During all -this commotion I was sleeping in utter unconsciousness in my cabin, -and in the morning I was very glad they had not woke me up. Tur is a -little place on the east side of the Red Sea; it is here that -pilgrims and travellers disembark, and get their camels to start for -Mount Sinai. - -I went on shore in the afternoon and bought some provisions at a Greek -store there, and by a most unexpected chance found some of Fortnum and -Mason's preserved soups at this out-of-the-way place; they had been -part of the cargo of a ship that had been wrecked in the Gulf of Suez. -The goods had been bought by some Greeks of the Suez Bazaar, then sent -down to Tur. I went to see the old Russian gentleman who makes -arrangements for all travellers to Mount Sinai. I bought some -tortoiseshell from him, and also purchased a pretty good collection of -coral and Red Sea shells from a Greek who was hanging about, and who -also sold me three beautiful little sponges. Cordock, the French -captain, and I walked out to a grove of date-palm trees not far off; -the mountains in the distance were covered with a strange purple haze, -peculiar to the Red Sea, and afforded a magnificent appearance. These -hills reminded me very much of the scenery of the background of some -of Gustave Dore's illustrations. - -_April 10._--We weighed anchor at seven o'clock in the morning; but it -was still very rough. The P. & O. ship passed us about five P.M. We -had just enough coal to last us thirty hours, and we had to run one -hundred and twenty-five miles. Thank God! the wind dropped, or I -cannot guess where we should have been. We heard at Tur that an -English ship was on the Zafarina reef. They also told us that it was -blowing so hard that ships' boats could not get ashore from the -vessels lying in the roads at Suez. - -_April 11._--At last I have arrived at the end of my journey, but more -by good luck than good management. 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