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diff --git a/43606-h/43606-h.htm b/43606-h/43606-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cbc8af3 --- /dev/null +++ b/43606-h/43606-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,11009 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sport in Abyssinia, by The Earl of Mayo. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1{ + text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 6em; +} + +h2 {text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 4em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + font-size: 1.2em; +} +.chap1 {margin-top: 1em;} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: left; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; +} +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: 33%; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +hr.l15 { width: 15%; + margin-left: 42%; } + +.center { text-align: center; } + +.left65 { margin-left: 65%; } + +.smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } + +.caption { + font-weight: bold; + margin-left: 15%; + margin-right: 15%; + text-align: center; + margin-bottom: 2em; +} + +ul.none { list-style-type:none; } +li.hanging {margin-left: 1em; + text-indent: -1em;} +li.hangingnd {margin-left: 3.5em; + text-indent: -1em;} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +p.hanging { + margin-left: 1em; + text-indent: -1em; +} + +p.address { + margin-left: 45%; + font-size: .8em; + margin-top: 1.5em; +} + +.footnote { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 0.9em; +} + +.footnotes { border: dashed 1px; + margin-top: 6em; } +.fntitle { margin-top: 1em;} +.footnote .label { + position: absolute; + right: 84%; + text-align: right; +} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +.widead { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.poetry-container { text-align: center; } + +.poem { + display: inline-block; + font-size: 95%; + margin-bottom: 1em; + text-align: left; +} + +@media handheld { + .poem { + display: block; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; + } +} + +.poem p { + margin: 0; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; } + +.poem p.i2 { margin-left: 2em; } +.poem p.i4 { margin-left: 4em; } +.poem p.i10 { margin-left: 10em; } +.poem p.o1 { margin-left: -.4em; } + +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} +.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} +.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} + +.i2 { margin-left: 2em; } +.i4 { margin-left: 4em; } +.i6 {margin-left: 6em;} +.i10 { margin-left: 10em; } + +.b20 {font-size:2.0em;} +.b15 {font-size:1.5em;} +.b13 {font-size:1.3em;} +.b12 {font-size:1.2em;} +.s08 {font-size:.8em;} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + empty-cells: show; +} + +td {padding-left: 1em; + padding-right: 1em; +} +.sp {padding-top: 1em;} +.tdc { padding-top: 1em; + text-align: center;} +.tdhang {text-indent: -1em; + margin-left: 2em;} +.tdr { text-align: right; + vertical-align: bottom;} + +.tnbox { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-bottom: 8em; + margin-top: auto; + text-align: center; + border: 1px solid; + padding: 1em; + color: black; + background-color: #f6f2f2; + width: 25em; +} + +.ch_summ { + font-size: .85em; + margin-left: 2em; + text-indent: -1em; + text-align: left; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 2.5em; +} + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sport in Abyssinia, by Dermot Mayo + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Sport in Abyssinia + The Mareb and Tackazzee + +Author: Dermot Mayo + +Release Date: August 31, 2013 [EBook #43606] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPORT IN ABYSSINIA *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tnbox"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original +document have been preserved.</p> +<p>On <a href="#Page_124">page 124</a>, "Che va piano va sano" should perhaps be "Chi va piano +va sano".</p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="342" height="550" alt="Cover" /> +</div> + +<h1>SPORT IN ABYSSINIA.</h1> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="fp" id="fp"></a> +<img src="images/i_004.jpg" width="550" height="373" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">OUR PARTY.<br /> +<span class="s08"><i>Frontispiece.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p class="center p6"> +<span class="b15">SPORT</span><br /><br /> +<span class="s08">IN</span><br /><br /> +<span class="b20">ABYSSINIA;</span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="s08">OR,</span><br /><br /> +<span class="b13"><i>The Mareb and Tackazzee</i>.</span></p> + +<p class="p4 center">BY<br /><br /> +<span class="b12">THE EARL OF MAYO,</span><br /><br /> +<span class="s08">LIEUTENANT, GRENADIER GUARDS.</span></p> + +<p class="p4 center">LONDON:<br /> +JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br /> +1876.</p> + +<p class="center p6"> +DEDICATED<br /><br /> +<span class="s08">TO</span><br /><br /> +<span class="b12">D.</span></p> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + +<p>I present this book to the Public simply as an +account of what I did and saw; and the impressions +the different events and scenes made upon my mind.</p> + +<p>I have written it from notes and my daily Journal. +The stories that are in it were told me, some by +Natives, others by Europeans; either over the camp +fire, or to while away the tedium of a long march, or +the <i>ennui</i> of life on board ship.</p> + +<p>These tales must be taken as they are written; they +amused me much at the time, and if they only +interest my readers I shall be content.</p> + +<p>I hope to revisit Abyssinia, but under more +favourable auspices; and trust that better luck may +attend me.</p> + +<p>I have spelt the names of places as they are <i>pronounced</i>, +having had them repeated over several times +to me by our excellent interpreter, Peter Brou.</p> + +<p class="i2"> +<i>Victoria Street. London. 1876.</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_VII" id="Page_VII">vii</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<table summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER I.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" colspan="2"><span class="s08">PAGE</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">CAIRO—THE KHEDIVE "AT HOME"—THE PYRAMIDS—PETROS, +OUR CONDUCTOR—SUEZ—OUR PROVISIONS—THE START FROM +SUEZ—ON BOARD THE DESSOOK—SOUAKIM—A USEFUL WEAPON—MASSOWAH—NATIVE +FISHERMEN—PEARLS—OUR FIRST +ENCAMPMENT—ARTIFICIAL SHADE—"MY BATTERY"—"EN +ROUTE"—ON CAMEL-BACK—THE FIRST SHOT—AND MISS—A +NEW METHOD OF LOADING—PICK-A-BACK—THE RESULT—ARREKEL +BEY—WATER SUPPLY—OUR PARTY DIVIDES—A +VULTURE TRAP—BAGGAGE TRAIN—CONVICT LABOUR—A +TURKISH DINNER-PARTY—THE CORPS DE BALLET</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER II.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">OUR EQUIPMENT—TENTS AND BEDS—COMMISSARIAT—THE +KITCHEN—MULES, THEIR HABITS AND TREATMENT—CAMELS—UP +COUNTRY—MY FIRST BAG—SILVER CUPS—A WILD BOAR—AILET—OUR +ESCORT—THE FIRST OF THE JUNGLE—SWEDISH +MISSIONARIES—AN ABYSSINIAN "SPA"—A HOT +BATH—THE "RAINS"—THRASHING THE TENTS</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER III.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">GENERAL KIRKHAM—DIK-DIK—AN ABYSSINIAN HOUSE—A +SUCCESSFUL DODGE—EGYPTIAN OUTPOSTS—A PET SHEEP—SPORTSMAN'S +PARADISE—LOST IN A MIST—A "NASTY +CROPPER"—SAFE IN CAMP—DIGGING FOR PIGS—A LUCKY +SHOT—A SHOWER BATH</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_VIII" id="Page_VIII">viii</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER IV.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">A STRANGE "GET-UP"—AN UNLUCKY SHOT—CRANES—AN +INSOLENT "CHICKER"—OUR COOLIES STRIKE—FLORICAN—SERVANT +HUNTING—NIGHT MARCHING—FIRST SIGHT OF +THE MAREB—"LONG LIE"—COPTIC CHURCH—A PEAL OF +STONE BELLS—HIGHWAY ROBBERY—A CHASE—DOMESTIC +QUARREL—LUGGAGE DIFFICULTIES—A MOONLIGHT RACE</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER V.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">A GENERAL BATH—RELIGIOUS PROCESSION—THE GAME OF +GOUX—DINNER-PARTY IN A STABLE—ETIQUETTE—GRAM—FRENCH +LEAVE—HOSTILITIES—A PARLEY AND RECONCILIATION—NATIVE +BEER—A WHIRLWIND—CULTIVATION—ROADS—FINE +SCENERY—A TALISMAN—A FIANCÉE—CAPTURE OF A +GUIDE—ROBBERS AND THEIR PUNISHMENT—THE CROPS—CAMP +ON THE MAREB—TOMATOS—LIONS—A NARROW ESCAPE—SPEAR +THROWING</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VI.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">A WART-HOG—"BRUNDO" BUTCHERING—AN "ETON BLUE" +BIRD—BABOONS—DESERTED VILLAGE—ROUGH WALKING—THE +ABYSSINIAN ADAM AND EVE—JEALOUSY—THE PRIESTS—SAVAGE +CUSTOMS—TAMARISK COVER—NATIVE SPORTSMEN—DANCING +AND SINGING—WANT OF A DOG—NEWS OF A LION—RED +POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS AND THEIR EFFECT—"BORROWED +PLUMES"—THE JUNGLE ON FIRE—WE STEER WEST—"BLACKMAIL"—SUMMARY +JUSTICE</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">A LONG MARCH—A NATIVE GARDEN—COOLIES AND THE WAY +TO TREAT THEM—MARKETS—A BATTLE-FIELD—COOL SHADE—"THE +FIRST POST"—SHIELDS AND SPEARS—JOHN—POTATOES—SILVERSMITHS—A +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_IX" id="Page_IX">ix</a></span> +NEW FRIEND—COOLIE SQUABBLES—AN +APPEAL—DONKEY BUYING—SHOE-MAKING—A BIRD'S-EYE +VIEW OF OUR ROUTE—SOURCES OF THE TACKAZZEE—MARRIAGE +FESTIVITIES—I TURN SURGEON—A MUSICAL +PARTY—MY REPUTATION AS A DOCTOR</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VIII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">DONKEY ROBBERIES—REPRISALS—A FRIEND IN NEED—POSTMEN—APOLOGIES—A +THIEF SURPRISED—IN SEARCH OF A +MILLER—THE WAY TO GET WATER—A SWIM—ARRIVAL OF +MY RIFLE—CUSTOM-HOUSE—ELEPHANT-HUNTING—HINTS ON +COSTUME—FIRESIDE TALES—HOW TO PRODUCE FIRE—AN +EPICURE—HARTEBEEST AND GIRAFFES—JUNGLE FIRES</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER IX.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">THE FOREST—THE TACKAZZEE AT LAST—A FORD—AN UNHEALTHY +CAMP—HIPPOPOTAMI—A RAFT—ON THE ELEPHANT +TRACK—IN SIGHT OF GAME—A LION AND A MESS—BIVOUACKING—BEGINNING +OF MY ILLNESS—GUINEA FOWL—WE TURN +HOMEWARDS—"THE BLUES"—RAFT-BUILDING—A CARAVAN—ELEPHANT +AGAIN—A BIG FISH!—NEWSPAPERS—CHANGE +OF QUARTERS—THE GAME OF "GALANIFT"</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_152">152</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER X.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">OUR DAILY ROUTINE—BAKING A JERKED KOODOO—LOSS OF AN +ELEPHANT—A SEPARATION—MY ILLNESS INCREASES—STARVATION—A +GODSEND—SAD PLIGHT—FRESH SUPPLIES—A +HARD MARCH—NARROW ESCAPE—AN EXCITING HUNT—PRIMITIVE +BUTCHERY—A CURIOUS SHOT—CARAVAN—EXCHANGE +OF CIVILITIES—"CHURCH"—CHANGE OF AIR—ACCIDENT +TO THE KITCHEN—STRANGE VISITORS—A THUNDERSTORM</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_173">173</a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_X" id="Page_X">x</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XI.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">AN INGENIOUS BED—EN ROUTE FOR THE COAST—A SAD +PLIGHT—UNPLEASANT TRAVELLING—FRIENDS—FORCIBLE +PERSUASION—AN AMUSING ENCOUNTER—AN ADVENTURE—I +OPEN A BAZAAR—PRICES—HOSPITALITY—HAGGLING—REINFORCEMENT—LETTERS +FROM HOME—A MISERABLE NIGHT—FALSE +RUMOURS—I SELL TWO DONKEYS—"HARD UP"—GEESE +AND HORNBILLS—ILL-TIMED THEFT—STRANGE QUARTERS—TOOTH-BRUSHES</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_195">195</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">SELF-HELP—SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS—LAID-UP AGAIN—A RÉUNION—HOSPITALITY—AN +OLD FRIEND—AN ALARM—ORDER +OF BATTLE—A FIELD DAY—"KIND ENQUIRIES"—OLIVES +AND OIL—PURCHASE OF A CLUB—CATTLE PLAGUE—AN INJUDICIOUS +DINNER—MY ILLNESS INCREASES—I HAVE TO BE +CARRIED—LUXURY OF A WASH—I BUILD A HOUSE—THE SEA—CIVILIZATION +AGAIN</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_214">214</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdhang">FRENCH FRIENDS—ON BOARD—COMPARATIVE COMFORT—A +QUEER FISH—A DINNER PARTY—A CARGO OF GAZELLES—ROUGH +WEATHER—VOYAGE TO SUEZ—AND ARRIVAL</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_243">243</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_XI" id="Page_XI">xi</a></span></p> + +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<table summary="List of Illustrations"> + +<tr> +<td>OUR PARTY</td> +<td class="tdr" colspan="2"><span class="s08"><a href="#fp"><i>Frontispiece.</i></a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>A RACE FOR A SPEAR</td> +<td class="tdc"><span class="s08"><i>To face page</i></span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i087">70</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>NARROW ESCAPE OF GOUBASEE</td> +<td class="tdc">"</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i110">91</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>OUR CAMP AT MASSOWAH</td> +<td class="tdc">"</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i139">118</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>A WILY BARIA</td> +<td class="tdc">"</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i170">147</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p> + +<p class="center p6 b15">SPORT IN ABYSSINIA.</p> + +<hr class="l15" /> + +<h2 class="chap1">CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +CAIRO—THE KHEDIVE "AT HOME"—THE PYRAMIDS—PETROS, OUR +CONDUCTOR—SUEZ—OUR PROVISIONS—THE START FROM SUEZ—ON +BOARD THE DESSOOK—SOUAKIM—A USEFUL WEAPON—MASSOWAH—NATIVE +FISHERMEN—PEARLS—OUR FIRST ENCAMPMENT—ARTIFICIAL +SHADE—"MY BATTERY"—"EN ROUTE"—ON CAMEL-BACK—THE +FIRST SHOT—AND MISS—A NEW METHOD OF LOADING—PICK-A-BACK—THE +RESULT—ARREKEL BEY—WATER SUPPLY—OUR +PARTY DIVIDES—A VULTURE TRAP—BAGGAGE TRAIN—CONVICT +LABOUR—A TURKISH DINNER-PARTY—THE CORPS DE BALLET. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"In youth's wild days, it cannot but be pleasant</p> +<p>This idle roaming, round and round the world."</p> + +<p class="i10"><span class="smcap">Goethe.</span></p> +</div></div> + +<p>Not to trouble the reader with an account of the +route to India, viâ Brindisi, I will commence the narrative +of my adventures at Cairo, where most of the +party who were going to shoot in Abyssinia were +assembled.</p> + +<p>We had a very jolly time of it at Cairo, and +amused ourselves in the usual way, by riding donkeys +through the bazaars and trying to win money from +the Greeks, who keep all the gambling-houses. Of +course most of the time was employed in making +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span> +preparations for the journey to, and for travelling in, +Abyssinia.</p> + +<p>We all went and paid our respects to the Khedive, +being introduced by Her Majesty's Consul, Major-General +Staunton. His Highness the Khedive was +very civil and courteous, and said he would give us +letters to the different Governors of the Egyptian +Provinces through which we were likely to pass. He +also provided all of us with firmans.</p> + +<p>A day or two afterwards we received invitations +to a <i>soirée théâtrale</i>, given at the Palace of Kasr-el-Nil. +This lordly "palace" is simply a large wooden +structure on the banks of the Nile, close to the great +barracks in which most of the troops of Cairo are +quartered.</p> + +<p>The entertainment was particularly dull, and the +only thing that enlivened us at all was the excessive +crush of the company going up the wooden stairs, +which made the whole place shake. Just as we were +entering the room the floor creaked loudly, and the +company parted as if a shell had burst in the midst +of them; I thought the whole place was coming +down. Luckily, there was no panic, or I do not +know what would have happened, as we were at the +top of the house, having gone up about six flights of +stairs, and the room was full. There was an elaborate +supper afterwards, for which I did not stop. I was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> +only too glad during the first pause to leave so hot +an entertainment.</p> + +<p>One Sunday afternoon we drove out to the Pyramids, +and ate lunch under some trees, sitting on one of those +broken Egyptian wheels which are used for raising +water. Afterwards we went inside the Pyramids; it +was very warm work, and we were forced to buy +quantities of antiquities, which, I believe, are manufactured +in Birmingham.</p> + +<p>I found I had to take off my boots in scrambling +down a labyrinth of narrow passages inside of the +Pyramid to get to the King's Chamber, for I had +twice been thrown on my back through having nails +in my boots.</p> + +<p>After having spent ten days at Cairo, I resolved to +start for Suez in order to make arrangements, and to +gain information about Abyssinia. By great luck I +met an Abyssinian merchant, quite a young fellow, +in the bazaar at Suez, who said he would go to +Abyssinia as my servant, and he turned out to be +very useful, as he could speak Amharic, Arabic, and +Hindustanee, as well as English. Petros, such was +his name, followed me through Abyssinia, and nursed +me with great care when I fell very ill on my return +to the coast.</p> + +<p>I arrived at Suez just before H., who was to go +to Abyssinia with me; he had come from Southampton +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> +by the P. and O. steamer, and I was delighted +to have arranged so nicely with him as to suit our +mutual convenience.</p> + +<p>I learnt that my provisions had all arrived safely +by the P. and O., but not my heavy guns nor ammunition. +What had become of them I could not make +out, as Rigby, of St. James's Street, had most distinct +orders in writing to send them to Suez. It turned +out afterwards that the P. and O. Company, through +carelessness, had sent the guns on to Pointe de Galle; +they arrived in Abyssinia the day before we started +for the Tackazzee, where the big game is to be found. +H. and I were hard at work for two days shifting +the provisions from the big boxes in which they had +come out into smaller ones, in order that these might +be carried on camels and mules. I bought a few +necessary articles at the P. and O. stores, such as a +large frying-pan, a common kettle, etc., for rough +camping work; most of the other things I had purchased +in London, and I would recommend all other +travellers to do the same. I bought all my provisions +from the Army and Navy Co-operative Stores, +Victoria Street; and I take this opportunity of +stating that, not only were they so well packed that +nothing was broken, but also that during the very +great heat and exceedingly dry cold winds in Abyssinia +not one thing failed, and every article of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> +provisions came out as fresh as if I had sent for and +got it that day from the stores. The boxes in which +the stores were packed I had made from an army +pattern; it is the one used in the infantry to carry +the carpenters' tools.</p> + +<p>A day or two after I had reached Suez, the rest +of the party arrived from Sheppard's Hotel, Cairo. +The ship we had to go in to Massowah, the seaport +town of Abyssinia, was called the <i>Dessook</i>—a ship +that had been running from Alexandria to Constantinople. +She possessed plenty of accommodation, +which is rather unusual for this line of steamers. +These vessels run every three weeks from Suez, taking +and bringing the Egyptian mails from and to Suez, +Souakim, and Massowah. It is an enterprise of the +Khedive's, and is called the Posta Khedive Company; +scarcely, I should think, paying well, as the trade +from all ports of the Red Sea is very small. They +also carry pilgrims during the pilgrim season.</p> + +<p>We were a party of eleven on board the <i>Dessook</i>. +These vessels make no arrangements for providing +passengers with food; so we formed a "mess" of our +own, with a president and a committee. Of course, +we had a great many cooks, as the party was large +and we were going to separate; seven to disembark +at Souakim, and the remaining four at Massowah. +Nothing could have been merrier than our little mess. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span></p> + +<p>The only other passengers besides ourselves were +some French Roman Catholic priests with a French +bishop, and a Frenchman belonging to a house of +business in Massowah. The bishop was very pleasant +and intelligent, and gave the rest of the party and +myself a great deal of useful information as to living +and travelling in Abyssinia: he was Bishop of Keren, +in the Bogos country.</p> + +<p>In about three days from Suez we arrived at +Souakim, which is built upon an island. The houses +are white square structures, with a minaret dotted +about here and there. I went on shore with H. in +the evening, and we walked about that part of the +town which is on the mainland. The inhabitants of +Souakim are Arabs; the men are very handsome, +well-made, likely fellows, and they walk about hand-in-hand, +twirling little crooked sticks and dressed in +white turbans and white clothes.</p> + +<p>I bought one of those crooked knives peculiar to +Souakim with which the young gentlemen of the +place settle their little disputes. They hold the knife +dagger fashion, and hack away at each other till one +of the combatants faints from loss of blood. One +could see, from the shape of the knife, that it would be +very hard to inflict a mortal wound with such a +weapon.</p> + +<p>Here seven of the party landed, including Captain +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> +B., Mr. Marcopoli, and Mr. Russell. They were going +up to the White Nile, by Berber, to join Colonel +Gordon, of the White Nile exploration. The other +four were going to Kassala, across the Desert, and +thence down to the Hamaram village mentioned by +Sir Samuel Baker in his 'Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia,' +to shoot all kinds of big game. The ship only +remained two days at Souakim, and then sailed for +Massowah. The rest of the journey was a little dull, +as the separation broke up this very cheery party, and +only four of us were now remaining.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 29th December, 1874, H., +Lord R., A., and myself landed at Massowah, and +here I begin my journal with an account of our sport +and adventures.</p> + +<p><i>Dec. 29, 1874.</i>—The first thing we did was to pay +our respects to the Governor. I presented the letter +which had been procured for me from the Minister of +Foreign Affairs in Egypt, and, of course, we had the +usual accompaniment of coffee. Arrekel Bey, the +Governor, was exceedingly civil, and said he would +do everything in his power to get us mules, etc., for +our journey to the interior.</p> + +<p>Massowah is built on an island, in the same way as +Souakim; but there are two long causeways joining it +with the mainland, whereas at Souakim one goes from +the mainland to the town in boats—coarse-shaped +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> +things, which are also used at Massowah, and which I +was told are not made in the country, but are brought +to Jidda by large steamers from India.</p> + +<p>The boats, or rather rafts, that the people go out +fishing in in the harbour of Massowah are very primitive, +being made of a few logs of wood turned up at +the ends. The paddler is always wet with the sea, +but as he wears no clothes, except a rag about his +loins, it does not matter so much, the sun soon dries +him. These fishermen are more like fishes than human +beings, as they are in and out of the water every +minute.</p> + +<p>All the export trade of Abyssinia comes to Massowah, +and the goods are mostly shipped by the +Hindoo Banians, who have had a monopoly of the +trade of this place for many years. The merchandise +is sent to Bombay, by Aden, in native boats called +sambouks. There is a pearl fishery off the island of +Dhalac, thirty-five miles from the coast of Massowah, +and the Banians make a good thing of it, paying for +pearls in clothes and those necessaries the natives of +the island are likely to want, and selling their purchases +for rupees at Bombay.</p> + +<p><i>Dec. 30.</i>—The first day in camp was certainly uncomfortable +in all respects, as was to have been +expected, but we soon got straight, and then had +time to look about us. The hills of Abyssinia in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span> +distance, lying due west of our little camp, looked so +lovely as the sun set over them, one range rising over +the other, that I was eager to be off to see a country +that so little is known about, and whose people are +the only black race of Christians existing.</p> + +<p>We pitched our little camp outside the town on a +small peninsula, close to where the Egyptian Government +is building a large house for the Governor.</p> + +<p>There is no shade whatever near Massowah, and +the Governor very kindly got the Egyptian soldiers +who were told off to us as our guard, as well as his +servants, to put up a large mat "shemmianah,"<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> + +which gave us a very pleasant shade during the heat +of the day. We always took our meals under its +shelter while we stayed at Massowah.</p> + +<p>As I said before, my heavy guns had not arrived at +Suez, so my battery was as follows:—</p> + +<p>One 16-bore central-fire gun, by Purdey, carrying +ball.</p> + +<p>A muzzle-loading rifle, by Purdey, carrying 2¼ +drachms of powder.</p> + +<p>A 12-bore pin-fire shot gun, which I bought at +Suez from Captain Kellock of the P. and O., made +by Crane, of the Royal Exchange. This turned +out to be a most serviceable gun and a very hard +hitter.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span></p> + +<p>These guns were rather weak to shoot the large +game with, but H. had brought his Rigby's "Express" +with him, which, he said, I could use whenever I wanted +to do so.</p> + +<p><i>Dec. 31.</i>—We had all four settled the evening before +to go out shooting, and accordingly, this morning, we +started early for the lowest range of hills to be seen +in the distance. We expected to find some small +game, such as gazelles and small deer. I rode a camel, +and H. a donkey. Traversing the narrow causeway +which joined the little peninsula on which our camp +was situate to the mainland, the first thing that struck +me was the beautiful colours of the fish in the seawater +at each side of the causeway. A. got off his +camel and tried to shoot one, but the water was +rather deep.</p> + +<p>On reaching the mainland we found ourselves in a +large open plain covered with stunted bushes, and in +the distance could be seen the village of Moncullu, +where the residents of Massowah go during the heat +of summer, which is very great in this climate.</p> + +<p>H. and I made for the hills as quickly as we +could; my camel striding ahead took the lead, and +he followed on his donkey. The motion of the camel +is very pleasant; as I had bought a capital camel-saddle +in the bazaar at Cairo, so far from the motion +being inconvenient, as some travellers allege it to be, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> +I found it very comfortable; it almost made me fall +asleep.</p> + +<p>We saw no game on the plain we were crossing. +When we had got over the first range of small hills, +the guide, a Shoho Arab, stopped in the sandy bed +of a small river where some Arabs were watering their +flocks of goats. The water is got at by grubbing a +hole in the sandy bed of the river, and then the Arabs +scoop it up with a goatskin into a wooden trough, or, +failing that, into another hole made in the sand.</p> + +<p>Here we stopped for a short time, watered our +beasts, and asked the natives if they had seen any +game. They said there was something in some bushes +close by, whereupon we were both on the tiptoe of +expectation. I got my rifle ready, and H. his shotgun. +We went towards the spot indicated, and, +almost among the herd of goats, I saw running about +a small brown-looking beast, like a very small deer. +We tried to stalk him, but he bolted past. H. +fired at him and missed; I then fired my rifle and +missed also. We then kicked him out of another +bush, but H. did not see him, he having broken cover +on the wrong side.</p> + +<p>This animal turned out to be a little mouse-deer, +or dik-dik. In loading my rifle again, I rammed +down the bullet without putting in any powder, not +being accustomed to use muzzle-loading weapons. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span> +This put one barrel <i>hors de combat</i>; thus the reader +will see that my first attempt at African sport was +not a success.</p> + +<p>One of the natives then volunteered to show us +some bigger deer. We went on through a sandy, +rocky valley in which mimosa-bushes were dotted +about. H. agreed to go to the ground to the +right and I to the left, so as to work it over thoroughly. +The boy who was with me said he saw some +deer on the ridge of the high hill at the foot of which +I was; I went up the hill, and sent him round the other +way. On coming to the top I saw the deer feeding and +wagging their tails just below me, but they were too +far off for the rifle I had. I longed for my Express, +which, at that time, was on its way to Pointe de Galle +in Ceylon, instead of being with me! The deer +caught sight of me and trotted away. I sent back +the boy for H., as he had his Express with him; +when he joined me we tried to get at them again, +but failed. We saw another dik-dik, and then started +for home, in a temperature that was very hot indeed.</p> + +<p>We were back in camp late in the afternoon, and, +having had something to eat, I determined to take my +rifle on board the <i>Dessook</i>, to ask the engineer, who +was an Englishman, to extract the bullet. Arrekel +Bey, the Governor, sent a boat round to our camp, +and the men rowed us out to the ship, singing, as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> +they were rowing, a wild Arab song which sounded +very prettily. It was a lovely moon-lit night, and +every dip of their oars in the water threw up waves of +phosphorescent light; which phenomenon everybody +who has been in these latitudes must have seen and +admired.</p> + +<p>The engineer put my gun right in about half an +hour; he had to unscrew the block at the breech of +the gun. The Arabs rowed us home; they had to +carry us on their backs for a portion of the distance, +as our boat could not get near enough to the shore. +The native who was carrying H. managed to drop +him, and he got a ducking; I very nearly tumbled off +my Arab sailor, on whom I was riding pick-a-back, +from laughter, and I was very glad to get to bed after +a rather long day.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 1, 1875.</i>—This day we all four paid a visit +to Arrekel Bey, who said he had seven mules to +carry our things, and camels for A. and Lord R., who +were not going to the hills, but to the province of +Bogos, which formerly belonged to the Abyssinians, +and was taken from them by the Egyptians.</p> + +<p>A., who had been in this part of the world before, +expected to find plenty of big game, as it was +a new country, and no English sportsman had shot +over it previously. I tried to buy a horse in Massowah; +Arrekel Bey's groom put him through his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span> +paces, showing him off up and down the space in +front of the Governor's house. It was very amusing +to see this Ethiopian sitting on the horse, with his +toes well stuck out, and displaying the points of the +animal, much in the same way as any London dealer +would in his straw-yard.</p> + +<p>Arrekel Bey very kindly invited us to dinner for the +next day at Moncullu; he has a sort of little summer +retreat there. He said he was going to take us to +see the wells which supply Massowah with water. +The water is brought in earthenware pipes built up +inside the wall of the causeway, along which we had +gone the day before, and the water is pumped up from +wells in the rock by convicts transported hither from +Egypt. Massowah, before the conduit was completed, +was very badly supplied with water; in fact, there +was nothing but rain-water tanks, and the inhabitants, +even now, are charged for the water so much per +skin. We were to take all our luggage and baggage +to Moncullu, and then this party of four was to +separate; A. and Lord R. going to Bogos, and H. +and myself to Adowa, the capital of Abyssinia, +whence we intended to go down to Tackazzee for the +shooting. The reader will see, later on, that we had +to change our plans.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 2.</i>—This morning I prepared some fishing-tackle, +intending in the afternoon to try and catch +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> +some of the strange-coloured fish that I had seen in +the water the previous day. Fish of most beautiful +colours and extraordinary shapes and sizes abound in +all parts of the Red Sea.</p> + +<p>A. had brought out some of the iron traps that +are used by keepers for catching rabbits in England. +I set one of these on the top of a heap of +stones near the camp, with a bit of meat tied on +the plate of it, to try and catch one of those great +vultures which are always seen hovering about Eastern +towns. In about half an hour one came swooping +down on it, made a "grab" at the meat and was caught +by the legs. He would have flown away with the +trap as well, but for Fisk, H.'s English servant, who +caught and secured him. He was one of the common +bare-necked vultures that live on carrion.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I went out fishing, but did not find +much sport; I only caught a pipe-fish, which we ate. +That evening some of our mules and three camels, +as also a string of camels for A. and Lord R., appeared. +Arrekel Bey, the Governor, sent to ask if +we were ready; I said we were all ready, but that our +promised transport animals had not all come. In about +half an hour the Governor arrived himself, when I told +him that I could not start without a proper supply of +mules. He stated they could not be got that day, but +he would do his best the next day; I very politely +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> +said I would not move without my luggage. He then +ordered all the donkeys that are used to carry the +water into Massowah from the conduit just outside the +town to be brought. They were a mixed lot; some +were blind and some were lame, but our luggage was +carried into Moncullu some way or other. The great +thing was that we made a move in the right direction.</p> + +<p>It was quite a sight to see this troop of animals, +consisting of camels, donkeys, and mules—the servants +pushing along the narrow causeway—one donkey lagging +behind, and another trying to push by—kettles +tumbling off and straps coming undone. <i>C'est le +premier pas qui coûte.</i> I am certain that it cost the +poor donkeys a great deal of pain, as they were +frequently belaboured with sticks and were loudly +cursed in Massowah Arabic.</p> + +<p>Arrekel Bey took us to see the wells made in the +rock in Moncullu, where the most deliciously cool +water is pumped up. The convicts looked fine, strong, +muscular fellows, but gentlemen that one would not +like to meet alone on a dark night. They had just +left off work, it being sunset, six o'clock.</p> + +<p>We then adjourned to dinner, which was laid out in +a large oblong hut made of grass. This is the way +that houses are made in Moncullu, as a free current of +air passes through the whole structure, and any other +material would be too hot. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span></p> + +<p>We had a regular Turkish dinner, and not at all a +bad one either. We first began by drinking, as is the +Turkish fashion, some excellent liqueur which is called +in these parts "araké." I believe it is made in +Smyrna, but it is very good. As some of my readers +may know, a Turkish dinner consists of a great number +of dishes, which are handed about to the guests in +quick succession. I managed to get through most of +them, and I think I could have succeeded in doing +more, but for the circumstance that the champagne +had not been iced; in fact, ice in those parts is an +unknown luxury. It is only in India that Europeans +can really <i>live</i> in a hot country.</p> + +<p>After dinner we were taken to a large marquee. +The ground outside was surrounded by a circle of +torches held in braziers, somewhat like a beacon, +burning wood which was replenished by the Egyptian +soldiers, a large number of whom had been "told off" +for this purpose.</p> + +<p>There were divans in the marquee, on which we +reclined. We had waited about a quarter of an hour, +when some musicians appeared with tom-toms and +rude guitars, on which they began strumming, and +making a hideous noise. Then some dancing girls +were brought in, and their extraordinary performance +surpassed anything I had ever seen either in India or +at Covent Garden. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span></p> + +<p>The natives of Moncullu were ranged round the +open part of the marquee, singing to the music and +keeping time by clapping their hands. All the dancing +girls did was to sway their bodies about in an affected +manner, stamp with their feet on the ground, and wag +their heads backward and forward, making their long +plaited hair swing across their faces. They were +highly scented with musk, etc., <i>à la mode Arabe</i>. +Like all Arab women, they were very small but +beautifully made, with tiny hands and feet.</p> + +<p>This entertainment lasted about three hours, and, +between the heat of the hut and the smell of the +negroes, I very nearly went to sleep. At last the +performance came to a close, and we retired to our +respective tents. The soldiers put out the lights, but +I could see Arrekel Bey's native servants, after we +were gone, regaling themselves on the remains of the +liqueur and brandy left upon the table in the marquee. +My head, the next morning, was not quite so clear as +it might have been. It must have been the Turkish +sweetmeats that caused it, I think!</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 3.</i>—To-day we were all up at sunrise. Our +mules were loaded, and also our three camels. Two +more mules had arrived the evening before. H. +bought one, of a grey colour, for his English servant +to ride, and I was to ride a small brown mule. +She turned out a capital animal and very sure-footed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span> +over the rocks in the hills. We ate some breakfast +and started for Sahatee at eight o'clock, having said +good-bye to A. and Lord R.<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> + I little thought on that +bright morning when we shook hands and wished +each other luck, that I should never see his cheery +face again. His death was indeed a sad, sad ending +to an expedition which began so pleasantly and well!</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +OUR EQUIPMENT—TENTS AND BEDS—COMMISSARIAT—THE KITCHEN—MULES, +THEIR HABITS AND TREATMENT—CAMELS—UP COUNTRY—MY +FIRST BAG—SILVER CUPS—A WILD BOAR—AILET—OUR ESCORT—THE +FIRST OF THE JUNGLE—SWEDISH MISSIONARIES—AN +ABYSSINIAN "SPA"—A HOT BATH—THE "RAINS"—THRASHING +THE TENTS. +</p> + +<p>Before taking the reader any farther into Abyssinia +I must say something about our equipment; what +tents we had, and what description of provisions.</p> + +<p>We took with us two tents; a three-poled tent +made by Edgington, and called by him the Punjâb +Hill tent. I should advise everybody to take this +description of tent for rough work in any country. +Head room is what is wanted for comfort; and this is +the only strong, portable, and shapely tent that combines +those advantages. Mr. Galton, in his most +useful little book, the 'Art of Travel,' says very +nearly the same thing. We had a little Union Jack +to fly at the top of it, and <i>iron</i> tent pegs. Of course +these tents can be made of any reasonable size. The +other—a <i>tente d'abri</i>—was for Fisk, H.'s English +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> +servant, and was for him to sit in while he skinned +the birds we shot, of which we intended to make a +good collection, as they are very beautiful in these +parts.</p> + +<p>Ours was rather smaller than usual; our two beds +were on each side of a person entering the door, which +left a space at the head of the beds for a box for +brushes and dressing-things, etc.</p> + +<p>We slept on iron camp-beds, and I was provided +with a blanket lined with silk, which is a device I +should recommend to everybody else, only advising +them to take care that the blanket is long and +wide enough to fall over the side as well as to +hang over the foot of the bed. The sleeper lies in +the fold of this blanket, so that if the sides were +tacked together it would make a complete bag; this +is good both for hot and cold climates. The lining +should be of red or blue silk, which is easily cleaned +with a sponge or piece of rag, and some warm water. +White, of Aldershot, made mine for the Cannock +Chase autumn manœuvres. It is almost waterproof, +and can be slept in with as much comfort as in the +best sheets.</p> + +<p>Our provisions were calculated to last three Europeans +for four months. I had the list overlooked +by the head purser of the P. and O. Company in +London, who gave me some very useful hints with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span> +regard to preserving provisions. I cut down the +amount of stores as much as possible in order to +save transport, as, from what little experience I had +had of India and coolie work in that country, I knew +that the lighter one travels, the more comfortable one +is, and the farther one goes. The following is an +exact list of the provisions:—</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>1½ doz. tins of cabin biscuits (Peek and Frean).</li> +<li>1½ doz. tins of German rusks.</li> +<li>6 doz. small tins of cocoa and milk, from Lion brand.</li> +<li>½ doz. small bottles of currie-powder.</li> +<li>1½ doz. pots of marmalade.</li> +<li>½ doz. tins of plum-pudding.</li> +<li>One middle piece of bacon, cut up, and hermetically sealed in tins.</li> +<li>1 doz. tins of ox-tail soup.</li> +<li>½ doz. tins of <i>paté de foie gras</i>.</li> +<li>3 doz. tins of Cambridge sausages.</li> +<li>1½ doz. tins of sardines.</li> +<li>Two tin-opening knives.</li> +<li>14 lbs. of yellow soap, called "primrose soap."</li> +<li>8½ pint bottles of Worcester sauce.</li> +<li>6½ pint bottles of Harvey's sauce.</li> +<li>28 lbs. of preserved potatoes.</li> +<li>3 bottles of best French vinegar. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span></li> +<li>12 lbs. of tea, done up in 1 lb. tins.</li> +<li> 1 doz. bottles of mixed pickles.</li> +<li>18 2-oz. pots of Liebig's extract of meat.</li> +</ul> + +<p>The cocoa and milk in tins was one of the most +useful of the provisions we had, as it only required the +addition of hot water to make a most delicious cup of +cocoa. This was very useful when starting early in +the morning and things were wanted in a hurry, and +it was quite a meal by itself. German rusks I would +also recommend, as they are very good eating, and do +not dry up the mouth so much as biscuits. Of course +these provisions were helped out a great deal by fresh +meat, milk, eggs, bread, etc., which we found in the +country. Besides all this, we took a large sack of +onions, about two donkey-loads of rice, some potatoes, +some salt for table use in bottles, and some black +pepper and mustard. Coffee of the very best sort can +be got at Massowah. We took a little sugar with +us, but it was not properly packed, and all melted +together in one compact mass. The best way to take +sugar would be to have pounded loaf-sugar done up +in pickle bottles or tins.</p> + +<p>With regard to the cooking, H. had a large tin +box which contained a canteen made by Thornhill, of +Bond Street; into this all the boiling cans and a +small kettle fitted, the one into the other. I would +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> +not recommend this arrangement for <i>rough work</i>, as if +a can gets bent it does not fit into the other, which +is a disadvantage, as it then has to be carried separately, +and eventually ends by being knocked to +pieces. The best kinds of things for the cook are a +common gridiron, a large frying-pan, three sizes of +pots made of <i>strong</i> tin in the shape of milk-pails for +boiling in; a good tin kettle, a soup-ladle, and a +couple of butcher's knives. With those one may go +anywhere.</p> + +<p>With regard to knives and forks, the best sorts are +those that are made by Thornhill, of Bond Street, for +skinning animals, but they answer other purposes as +well. All steel things, in a hot, dry climate, can be +very well cleaned and polished by the natives with +the wood ashes out of the camp-fire, and there is no +reason why they should look dirty, for dirty things +always take away the appetite, especially if you +have sometimes to eat rather strange food. The forks +I had made from my own pattern, and two of them +can be converted into a fish spear on an emergency. +It is a great thing to try and manage to have such +implements as may be made to serve more than one +purpose; as the reader will understand, this saves a +great deal of carriage.</p> + +<p>H. brought out two English hunting-saddles; they +did very well for the mules we rode in Abyssinia. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span> +He also brought snaffle-bridles; these were a great +deal better than the bridles of the country, which are +dreadfully severe and pull any animal back on his +haunches with the least touch. This is rather dangerous +on a narrow path over a precipice, as sometimes, +going uphill, by mistake a rider is apt to hang +on by the bridle instead of catching hold of either the +mane or the pommel. The mules took to the snaffle +very kindly; in fact, it seemed quite a relief to them +to have this description of bit in their mouths.</p> + +<p>As so much has been written upon mules lately, +with regard to their use as draught animals for farm +purposes and in other ways, I copy from my notes +made on my way home some memoranda of the +way these animals are treated and looked after in +Abyssinia.</p> + +<p>Everybody in Abyssinia rides a mule; even the +king rides a mule, and has his charger led in front of +him. This custom is followed by all the nobles and +"swells" in the country.</p> + +<p>The saddles used on Abyssinian mules are made +with high cantels and pommels, and are well padded; +a good sheep-skin Numbdah, or one made of old +cotton cloth, folded into many folds—the older and +the more ragged the better, as it is then softer—is put +under the saddle. On the march, when the halting-place +for the day is arrived at, they take off the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span> +saddle but not the numbdah, tying up the mule in the +shade for about half-an-hour to let the animal get cool. +They then remove the numbdah and lead the mule +to roll. The best place for this purpose is in the +ashes of an old camp-fire. In fact, in Abyssinia there +are regular rolling-places for the mules and donkeys +at most of the camping grounds; the animals seem to +know them by instinct, especially the patient ass, +which latter is used merely for carrying baggage. +Anybody riding an ass in Abyssinia would be hooted +through the country. This is rather extraordinary, as +these animals, among the Arabs, and also in Egypt, +are considered quite the thing, and large donkeys of +good breed fetch very high prices in Cairo. I myself +saw one at Suez that had cost at Cairo 40<i>l.</i>, but he +was made like a race-horse.</p> + +<p>After the mule has rolled they take him to water; +they next hobble him, and let him go out to graze. +The best sort of hobble I have ever seen, and one +used in Abyssinia, is one by which the near fore leg is +tied up with a leather thong, about three-quarters of +an inch wide, to the off hind leg, or <i>vice versâ</i>. The +thong must be so tied that the mule can walk pretty +easily, and yet it should not be too loose.</p> + +<p>These remarks apply to donkeys as well as to +mules; but, of course, the former animals do not +require so much care as mules. They need not be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> +hobbled when let out to graze, but should always have +a man to look after them in case of attacks by wild +beasts.</p> + +<p>In travelling with these beasts the great thing, of +course, is to avoid sore backs in this country, where +the temperature varies so much in different parts; +as, for instance, I was out duck-shooting one morning +at 5.30 in a white frost, and at the next camping +ground, at a less altitude, at the same hour of the +morning, I could not bear a thick coat on at all when +walking out shooting.</p> + +<p>This change of temperature occurring very often, +day by day, while travelling with these animals +through Abyssinia, must have, I think, some effect +on the backs of mules and donkeys. The origin of +the swelling under the skin, I am persuaded, must +depend on the sudden check to the perspiration. +Of course, if the saddle or packing had at all bruised +the back of the animal, this would accelerate the +complaint.</p> + +<p>The back having become sore or swollen up, matter +is formed underneath.<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> + To cure this the natives of +Abyssinia cast the donkey or mule, and with a hot +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> +iron score the back. In two days the wound begins +to discharge matter; after a few days more, the +sore should be washed once or twice every twenty-four +hours and dressed with <i>fresh butter</i>. The back +becomes much harder after these wounds have healed +up, but it requires at least a month or more to do +so, and the animal should be kept within doors or in +any enclosed space, and fed on corn and green food, +as the discharge from the wound is exceedingly +weakening.</p> + +<p>Some merchants of Abyssinia, who travel daily +for months down to the coast from distant parts, much +prefer mules and donkeys whose backs have been +burnt, as, they say, the animals are hardier, and the +soreness and swelling are not likely to recur.</p> + +<p>As to our camels, they were with us only a short +time, for they left us at the foot of the hills; my +experience of camels, therefore, is not very great. +All that I observed was, that it is best to leave them +to the cameleers; but to see that the cameleers, when +loading up at starting, are not trying to shirk their +loads and put the things told off to <i>them</i> on their +neighbours' camels. This is a favourite expedient, +and they will tell any lies and swear any oaths to get +rid of a pound or two of baggage, especially if the +camel is a favourite one with them.</p> + +<p>With regard to the mode of packing mules and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> +donkeys, it would take up too much space to give +an account here. All I would recommend to the +traveller is to follow the custom of the country in +which he finds himself. He should not interfere with +the natives in loading, as, most likely, he will thereby +only display his ignorance, and they will get annoyed +and sulky at being interfered with. Sir Samuel +Baker, in his 'Nile Tributaries in Abyssinia,' gives +an interesting account of the mode in which he loaded +his donkeys for starting to Central Africa.</p> + +<p>Now, to continue our journey. The plain on which +we had been encamped soon ended, and then we began +to ascend the hills. The ground was very rocky +and arid, only stunted bushes growing here and there. +We then came upon a small valley which reached to +the bank of a sandy river-bed, with rather thick +jungle on each side. One of the servants said we +should be likely to find some game here. I got off +my mule and walked up the bed of the river, telling +the man with my mule to go straight on with the rest +of the party, and that I would rejoin them after +making a slight détour. After I had gone a little +way a dik-dik crossed the dry river-bed in front of +me; I fired at him, but it was too long a shot. I +then tried to circumvent some guinea-fowl, with +which the jungle fringing the banks of the watercourse +abounded; they made the whole place alive with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> +their calling to each other. They are exactly like +the guinea-fowl one sees at home, and make precisely +the same noise. They did not let me approach them +within shooting range, being very shy. I successfully +stalked a hare and knocked him over, he was +of that description of animals which our American +cousins call the jackass rabbit; I leave it to naturalists +to give his Latin name. We ate him for dinner, +and he was capital food.</p> + +<p>I then trotted on in front of H., and arrived at +Sahatee, the place we were to camp at for the night, +about one o'clock in the afternoon. My first thought +was to get something to drink, as I was very thirsty; +therefore, obtaining some oranges from a native, of +these I sucked some, and squeezed the juice of +others into my little silver bowl; they were very +bitter, but greatly refreshing.</p> + +<p>Before I go on, let me recommend travellers to +take these small silver bowls with them; it is +wonderful how useful they will be found. The bowl +can be applied to many purposes, and is easily +cleaned with fine wood ashes. One makes one's +tea in it, covering it over with a plate to make it +draw; one drinks one's soup out of it, or coffee or +cocoa, as the case may be; and one mixes one's +medicine in it. Silver is a very good metal for +things to be made of, as if it is bent it is easily +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> +brought into shape again. One of the gun-bearers +should always carry the bowl, so that the traveller +may have it at hand to dip into the stream and drink +from; the brightness of the silver shows whether the +water is fit to drink. In Abyssinia the natives do +not understand silver vessels, and set no value on +them, thinking they are tin; but in other countries +they might easily be stolen.</p> + +<p>The camping-place of Sahatee is surrounded by +rocks. There are two trees on a little knoll in the +centre, and it was under one of these I was lying +when H. appeared with the camels, the tents and +baggage. We pitched the little tent in the bed of the +dried-up river, whence, during the rains, the water +dashes over the rocks and flows away to the sea. +After we had had something to eat, H. said he was +going out shooting, one of the Arabs in charge of +the camels telling him that wild pigs abounded here. +He had not long gone out of camp before I heard +the crack of his rifle. He had wounded a boar in the +hind quarter, as it was coming to drink; but the boar +trotted away, leaving blood tracks, which H. and +the Arab tried to follow up, but soon lost them in +the dust and the hard-baked ground of the jungle. +When I heard the shots I started off also to try +and find a boar, but was not so lucky. I got back +about an hour before dusk, and saw several of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> +Francolin partridges pecking about the camping +ground; I killed one and wounded another. H. had +just come in, and as the wounded bird rocketed +over his head he knocked it down. H. also shot a +small brown duck. I had tried to get some of +the little sand-grouse as they came down to drink; +but these little birds only come down just as it is +getting dusk, and settle quickly on the ground, +uttering their peculiar plaintive cry. It was almost +impossible to discern them in the fading light, and as +I wanted to get a pot shot into the "brown" of them +as they were on the ground, for the cook to prepare for +our breakfast next morning, I waited too long, the +light failed, and I had to give up my intention.</p> + +<p>We were camped on the shingle of the river, which, +although it is always a very dry, clean spot, and +free from insects, has this disadvantage, that the +iron legs of the camp-beds sink rather far into the +ground; and sometimes one wakes up finding oneself +in a slanting position, with the head lower than the +legs.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 4.</i>—This morning we were on the move early, +having left at 6.45 for Ailet. It was a lovely, cloudy +day, which is a thing that one knows how to appreciate +in an Eastern climate. The country became +much greener as we approached Ailet; this village lies +in a valley which is exceedingly fertile—that is to say, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> +as far as it is cultivated by the Shoho Arabs who +dwell in the village. Elephants are found here after +the rains, but the place is rather unhealthy at that +time, and most of the natives, who are miserable +creatures, suffer from fever.</p> + +<p>I should state that the Governor had provided us +with a guard of six irregular Egyptian soldiers and a +non-commissioned officer. In the middle of the night at +Sahatee, we had heard the loud report of the Egyptian +corporal's carbine. We thought we were going to be +attacked; but it turned out, next morning, that he +had fired at a pig, in hopes of securing some fresh +meat.</p> + +<p>These poor soldiers' pay is four dollars a month; +they find themselves in clothes and food, but are +provided with arms, and all military service is compulsory +with the Egyptians.</p> + +<p>Our cameleers and Naib Abdul Kerim—the man +whom Arrekel Bey, the Governor, had given us to guide +us through the country and manage our transport as +far as Adowa, the capital of Abyssinia—wanted +us to camp near a large tree just outside the house +of the Sheik of the village of Ailet. H. and I, however, +agreed to go on, so as to get to the hot springs +of Ailet, as it was early in the day and we should +be a little farther on our journey; we should also +be farther away from the village and more likely +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> +to get shooting. After some little palaver and +remonstrances from the cameleers, who thought they +had come to the end of their day's march, we +moved on.</p> + +<p>The scene now changed from an open valley into a +thorny jungle, and the road was frequently crossed +by dried-up river-courses. H., who had already +acquired a fine collection of birds in Ceylon and +Australia, was very anxious to secure specimens here. +This jungle was alive with all varieties of parti-coloured +warblers, and he shot several specimens, including +a sort of jay with a hooked bill, which utters +a strange cry—one that everybody travelling in +Abyssinia will soon get accustomed to. It is not +unlike the noise of the English jay.</p> + +<p>We shortly afterwards came to a little stream which +flows from the hot spring; and we saw a white house +in the distance perched on the top of a high hill, for +which we made. The little stream narrowed as we +advanced, and we found ourselves in a rocky pass. +Our Arabs told us that the camels could go no farther. +The white house, as we learnt, belonged to some +Swedish missionaries. We pitched our camp just at +the foot of the hill which rose straight above us, the +little white house looking very picturesque at its top; +the hot spring was about ten minutes' walk from our +camp. One of the missionaries came down to speak +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> +to us; he said that they had only just finished +building their house, and he hospitably invited us to +stay there, but we declined, with thanks.</p> + +<p>H. said he would go out shooting, but I stopped +in camp to settle things, and before dinner I went up +and bathed in the hot spring. My readers must +know that this is the fashionable Spa of Abyssinia, +whither invalids afflicted with scrofulous and other +complaints come to bathe. It is held in great repute +all through the country, and I believe with good +reason.</p> + +<p>The spring was almost too hot to sit in, but I had +taken up my big sponge, and douched myself well; +the bath was very soothing after the heat and march +of the day.</p> + +<p>This evening it began to rain; this will give the +date of the beginning of the rains in the hills lying +between the sea and Asmarra, the first table-land in +Abyssinia that one comes to on this road. These +rains must not be confused with the rains that pour +down in Abyssinia, supplying the Nile tributaries that +Sir Samuel Baker has explored, and which begin in +the month of May.</p> + +<p>Directly the rain began the servants and myself +busied ourselves in making a little trench around the +tent; this is a precaution everybody ought to take +where there is the least chance of rain. I also got my +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> +<i>courbatch</i><a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> + and thrashed the tent well all round. The +reader will, doubtless, wonder why I did this, but it is +an old soldier's dodge, and the reason for it is that +it makes the threads of the canvas—which, in hot +countries, become shrunken and open—to close +together, so that, after the application of the <i>courbatch</i>, +the tent, instead of getting leaky with the rain, +becomes more waterproof than before; a large pliable +bundle of twigs will do just as well. H. came in, +having shot a small bird or two for his collection, and +having seen some pig down the watercourse.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +GENERAL KIRKHAM—DIK-DIK—AN ABYSSINIAN HOUSE—A SUCCESSFUL +DODGE—EGYPTIAN OUTPOSTS—A PET SHEEP—SPORTSMAN'S +PARADISE—LOST IN A MIST—A "NASTY CROPPER"—SAFE IN +CAMP—DIGGING FOR PIGS—A LUCKY SHOT—A SHOWER BATH. +</p> + +<p>I had heard at Massowah that General Kirkham, +commander-in-chief of the King of Abyssinia's army, +was at Gindar, about half-a-day's march from Ailet. I +had written to the General from Massowah, and, this +evening, a servant of the missionaries brought me a +note from him, saying that he would come and see us +next morning. I was very much interested in seeing +General Kirkham, who had lived so long in Abyssinia +away from his own country.<a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> +</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Jan. 5.</i>—We got up rather late the next morning, +and H. went out shooting. I said I would stay in +camp and receive Kirkham when he came, but he did +not arrive after all till the afternoon; so, having waited +for him until twelve, I decided to go out shooting. +I proceeded down to the watercourse, and had not +gone far before I came to a pool, at which some pigs +were about to drink; I tried to stalk them, but they +trotted away. I then turned sharp to the left into +the jungle, and wandered about some little time. +One could not well imagine a more likely place for +wild game, and I expected every moment to see +some strange animal dart out of the bushes.</p> + +<p>The air was very hot. I had walked about an hour +and a half, and I determined to rest and eat some +sardines and a crust of bread which I had brought +with me. I got on the top of a little mound, and was +discussing my luncheon, when I heard a sort of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> +sneezing noise behind me. This made me prick up +my ears; I looked round and saw walking quietly +out a beautiful little male dik-dik. I rolled him +over with my shot gun, pulled out my knife and +rushed after him. He was struggling and bounding +about on the ground when I got up to him, when +I made several vigorous stabs at him with my +knife, but, to my great chagrin, he scampered away. +I ran after him, getting well torn by the bushes, +and found him lying dead just at the foot of a thorny +bush. This was the first African animal I shot, +and, although he was so small, I felt as proud of him +as a cat would with her first mouse.</p> + +<p>At the time the dik-dik came out I heard pigs +grunting in a little dell below me, but I could not see +them at all. I went back to camp, and hearing that +Kirkham was up in the missionaries' house I sent +word to him that I had come in. I was sitting in +the tent when suddenly I saw a fair, rather good-looking, +slim man walking up to me; he was dressed +in a frock-coat and forage cap—a sort of undress +general's uniform. It had a very strange effect to see +this man walk up to one in an African jungle—his +dress, too, not such as one would expect to see in +those parts.</p> + +<p>We soon became the best of friends. He told me he +would do everything in his power to get us shooting, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> +and forward us through the country. We had a very +pleasant little dinner in the tent, talking over our +prospects; Kirkham said he would breakfast with us +next morning, and then go on to Gindar. At this +place he has built a sort of wooden shanty; he had +also brought his tent with him to make arrangements +for us. He was attended by an Abyssinian servant, +named Peter Brou, a man who had been educated at +Malta; this man spoke English very well, and could +also speak Amharic, all the Abyssinian dialects, and +Arabic. Kirkham recommended us to take him as +our servant, which we did; he turned out very useful, +and was one of the best interpreters I ever knew.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 6.</i>—After breakfast, and when Kirkham had +left us, the weather having cleared up, I went out +shooting, and walked through the jungle down to the +village of Ailet. The boy who was with me was an +Abyssinian Mussulman, living at Massowah, but he +seemed to know all the Shoho Arabs in the village. +I went into a house to look at the interior and see +what it was like; it was an oblong structure built of +grass, divided by a grass screen into two chambers, +the door of the screen being covered by an Arab +cloth. The Arab women, who were grinding corn, +amused themselves by peeping at me through the +ragged holes in the cloth; they were very civil, and +brought me a cup of coffee. I ate my lunch and then +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span> +started with two of the boys of the village, sent by +their father to show me the place where I might find +"pig." I did not see anything, but my Massowah +boy annoyed me very much by coolly firing at some +guinea-fowl with my 16-bore gun loaded with ball, +so I told him that the next time he did that I should +give him a good thrashing.</p> + +<p>I then walked on towards the little stream running +from the hot springs, rather disappointed and tired. +Going through the jungle I put up a dik-dik hind; +this animal trotted away out of shot range, and then +stopped and looked at me. I had read in some book +of African sport that the curiosity of deer is extraordinary, +so I squatted down and twirled my +gun about much in the same way as signallers do +with a signal flag. To my great astonishment the +little dik-dik pricked up her ears, and gradually +making little circuits approached within range; it +seemed almost a pity to shoot so pretty a little +animal, but I fired and rolled her over.</p> + +<p>On my way towards home I heard in the jungle +some people chattering; they were the women of +the village of Ailet, gathering and cutting firewood. I +was walking on when two very pretty and gracefully-shaped +girls stepped out from the bushes; they were +stripped to their waists in order to work more easily. +Mahomed, the Massowah boy, seemed to know them, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> +for both of them came smiling up to him, saying, +"Ah, Mahomed, how are you?" and he kissed them +both. This young gentleman seems to be quite a +Lothario, and knows all the girls about here. When +the ceremony of kissing was over the girls saw me for +the first time, and retreated like two startled gazelles.</p> + +<p>Dik-dik flesh is very good eating; it tastes better +roasted when one has bacon to add to it. The best +way to cook the haunch is to lard it well with bacon +fat and then roast it in Turkish fashion, skewered +through with a stick.</p> + +<p>The above applies to gazelles as well, as these +animals have no fat except round their kidneys. This +is also the best way to cook all birds, but the larding +may be omitted.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 7.</i>—This morning, having bade adieu to the +missionaries, we started for Gindar by a short cut +across the hills. The missionaries are making this +road, but the jungle is not all cut yet. Our guide +was Brou, the interpreter that Kirkham had given us +as a servant.</p> + +<p>Having travelled up the gorge, we passed the hot +spring. Here the missionaries have built a little +house for the poor sick who come to bathe. Pushing +our way through thick thorny jungle we came suddenly +on a beautiful valley, green and fresh-looking, with +high hills in the background, one of which we were to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span> +cross to reach Gindar. In the distance, on the side +of a hill, might be seen the station of Sabargouma, +where three or four Egyptian soldiers are stationed +to look after the customs and Egyptian interests.</p> + +<p>On descending the valley I resolved to try to +shoot, as it looked a likely place for game, so I got my +rifle and gun and started with Mahomed, the Massowah +boy. Kirkham had given us a black, fat-tailed +sheep of the Asmarra breed, a celebrated one in +Abyssinia; this animal followed me and assisted at +the death of another dik-dik. We never killed this +black sheep for eating, and he accompanied us all +through Abyssinia and became a great pet in camp. +I found H. at Sabargouma, where we had a little +gin and water. Fisk said he saw a large hyena, but +the cunning brute soon slipped out of sight. He shot +a specimen or two for his collection. We then started +to ascend the steep hill in front of us; this was a +lovely ride, and it reminded me very much of the +Himalayas without the beautiful rhododendrons that +grow there. The latter part of the ride was through +an olive grove. The air on the top of these hills is +most exhilarating; I felt able to do anything, and +my mind was busy imagining all kinds of sport and +adventures in such a lovely country. About one in +the afternoon we entered the small valley of Gindar.</p> + +<p>Before I go on with the journey I wish to say a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> +little concerning Gindar, and what General Kirkham +proposes doing there. Gindar is a fertile valley enclosed +by hills; south-south-west lies Debra Bizen, +which rears its head high above the rest of the hills. +There is a monastery on the top, and the monks are +said to be rich and in great favour with King Johannes. +The grass in the valley is very good; at the time I +speak of, the Shoho Arabs had driven their flocks +here to graze; and their cattle-stations are found +dotted about in the little vales between the hills. +The grass of the valley is intermixed with numerous +sweet-smelling herbs, such as wild peppermint, +thyme, etc.; the castor-oil plant also grows wild +here.</p> + +<p>The sides of the hills are covered with wild olive +groves, and in places we came across velvety lawns +which reminded us of a well-kept English pleasure +ground rather than the wilds of Abyssinia. Game is +abundant, and elephants were in the neighbourhood, +as the hunters from Adowa had been here. One of +them having broken his clumsy matchlock, was obliged +to return to get it mended. Koodoo, gazelle, dik-dik, +and other antelopes abound, as well as many +large pigs, and, as the Irishman is made to say, +guinea-fowl and partridges here "jostle each other." +This was, of all others, the place for us, so we determined +to stay for two or three days. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span></p> + +<p>Gindar has been given by the king to General +Kirkham, who has built a house, and has also allowed +the missionaries to build one. He intends trying to +start a bazaar and small town to supply travellers +going and coming to Massowah; and also to supply +the Abyssinian merchants with the little European +necessaries they require there without having to go +into Egyptian territory to buy them, which at present +they have to do at Massowah.</p> + +<p>I thought I would take a turn with my gun; it was +a misty evening, and too late to go out shooting. I +wandered over the hills, and, the light failing, I was +"making tracks" for home; it got darker and darker, +and the mist got thicker. The little Galla boy that +Kirkham had sent with me to show me the way, was +a stranger to these hills; he never lost heart once nor +spoke a word: at last he uttered a sort of whine; I then +knew I had better trust to myself. I had seen, about +a quarter of an hour before, the light of the fires of +an Arab cattle station; I resolved to try and see the +light again; so I fired my gun off twice to attract the +attention of those in camp, but I was between hills, +and they did not hear. I was pushing through the +wet bushes when down I slipped, head over heels, on +some creeper-covered rocks, but I picked myself up, +with no harm beyond a fright. I was determined to +find the light again; and, forcing my way through the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> +jungle, as it was getting intensely dark, all of a sudden +I again fell. This time I fell about twenty feet. The +Galla boy was more careful, and, seeing me fall, crept +along on his hands and knees, feeling his way as he +went. I clutched hold of the creepers that grew on +the rocks, and picked myself up. I heard water +gurgling beneath, and I thought to myself it was lucky +I did not fall farther, for I might have fared worse +this time. I lost my felt hat, but the most extraordinary +result of these false steps was that my little +16-bore gun, which I had with me, was not the +least hurt, although it received several serious blows +against the stones. At last I caught a glimpse of the +welcome light. The cattle station was in a little vale: +the smell of the cattle now guided me, and I soon +found myself alongside of the thorny hedge that +surrounded these camps. The women were preparing +the evening meal, and when they saw me without any +hat, and looking rather scared, began to laugh. This +I thought unkind, so I pushed through the thorn +hedge and went straight to one of the little fires. An +old Arab was squatting by it. I was streaming with +perspiration, and very thirsty. I asked him for a +drink, and he brought me some water in a wooden +bowl; no iced champagne ever tasted so good, and +I swallowed it all; then I took off my coat to dry, +having made up my mind that I was to stop here +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> +for the night. At least here was a fire and a chance +of some food—better than the wet jungle in any +case.</p> + +<p>The old Arab seemed to understand I was going +to make myself comfortable for the night, and he went +and fetched two others, younger ones, and by signs +and saying the word Gindar, I made them understand +that I was lost. They said they would show me +the way home if I gave backsheesh. I showed them +the empty lining of my pockets; one does not generally +take out small change when going shooting in +Africa, but this only shows how useful it is. At last +they agreed to show me the way for a dollar, and +the Galla boy and myself started for home; about +half-way we met a Greek that Kirkham had sent +out to look for me, carrying a lantern, accompanied +by some native servants. I soon reached home, and +Kirkham congratulated me that my first adventure +in Abyssinia had not ended worse.</p> + +<p>Our little dinner was a pleasant one, as it was increased +in number by the presence of an ex-French +navy captain who had joined the Commune and now +was an exile in Abyssinia. He was a wild-looking +old fellow, but a wonderful talker; and he and I +chatted away gaily. He had come from Adowa, and, +having very little money, was nearly starved on the +road. He looked very pinched, and certainly disposed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> +of a wonderful amount of our preserved provisions +with great gusto.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 8.</i>—This morning I went out to look for +pigs. I was wandering about the jungle, when I saw +an animal on some rising ground, quite the size +of a donkey. Whether it was the position of the +ground or that the old boar—for such it turned out +to be—was very large, I do not know; at all events +I mistook him for a donkey, and did not fire. He +whisked up his little curly tail and trotted off, followed +by his spouses and some squeakers. I ran up, but +they were soon lost in the thick bushes. Naturally, +I was dreadfully annoyed, and resolved to let fly at +everything in future.</p> + +<p>I saw no end of guinea-fowl, but did not fire, being +on the look-out for larger game. After wandering +about for an hour or so, I came to the little vale in +which the cattle station was, the scene of my adventure +of the night before.</p> + +<p>An old sow and two squeakers were there, enjoying +the green grass. I came on them rather suddenly, and +the squeakers trotted off, but as the old sow moved +after them, I broke her back with a ball from my little +16-bore Purdey; she was a very old lady, with good +tusks. Both the boars and sows in this part of the world +have fine tusks; the boars' tusks only differing by +being larger. She died very game; and as I twice drove +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> +my knife into her throat, she was very quick with her +tusks and once nearly caught my shin. I lost the rest +of the afternoon's shooting, having to send back the +only boy I had with me to camp, to ask for people to +carry the game home. We had liver and bacon for +breakfast the next morning, and it was excellent; +also pork chops.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 9.</i>—This morning, after breakfast, I went +out shooting, accompanied by Brou, and saw some +dik-dik, but did not fire at them, as I had already +killed three specimens. We came to a large hole +in a bank, not unlike a fox-earth, and I heard some +beasts running about inside, which Brou said were +pigs. I never heard of pigs going to ground before, +but he assured me they did so in Abyssinia.</p> + +<p>He and I set to work to stop the hole, and we put +a boy over it to watch. I retired to a shady spot, and +told Brou to go home and send me out some lunch, +and bring people (some of our bullock-drivers and +donkey-men) to try to dig out and unearth the pigs, or +whatever they were. In due course of time the lunch +appeared, and, shortly after, Brou, with some Shoho +Arabs, our drivers. We tried very hard to get at the +animals, but they beat us; the earth was too deep, and +ran in among roots; the soil also was very hard for +digging with such wretched tools as the Arabs brought. +I longed for an English ferreter with his spade. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span></p> + +<p>A Greek, named Aristides, who is engaged here +for cutting wild olives for the Khedive of Egypt, +came to see Kirkham. This Greek employs Abyssinians +to cut the wood and send it to Egypt, where, +I am told, his Highness uses it for parquet floors. +I induced him to mount a spear-head I had brought +out with me, on a stout stick, and it looked very +well and serviceable. He said he would go out +shooting with me next morning; and, as he knew +every inch of the ground round Gindar, I was +delighted.</p> + +<p>The following morning we both started off at cock-crow, +while the dew was on the ground, for a hill lying +behind Kirkham's shanty, which he had built here. +It was rather steep walking, but a lovely morning and +as fresh as possible.</p> + +<p>The Greek was in front of me tracking up a herd +of Hagazin or Koodoo, when he suddenly stopped and +aimed at something with my rifle that he was carrying +for me. I stepped up as gently and quickly as I +could, took the rifle and fired at a red-looking deer; +the animal dropped like a stone. I rushed down the +steep bank, and found the bullet had gone right +through its head between the horns. I could not +account for this, as I had aimed behind the shoulder. +The Greek said that at the moment I fired, the deer +turned its head round and looked at me; as the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> +animal was standing a good deal below me, this must +have been the case.</p> + +<p>It was a wonderfully lucky shot; as, if the deer +had bounded a few yards away wounded, the bushes +in this part were so dense that it would have been +rather hard to find the game. This antelope turned +out to be a bush-buck, called in Abyssinia Doucoula.</p> + +<p>The Greek and I then went to the top of the hill, +having cut up and skinned the deer and sent a boy +home with it; it was a heavy load for him. My companion +showed me a little bird, the honey-bird, that +kept flying backwards and forwards in front of us, +seemingly to lead us on. Aristides explained to me +that this little bird not only leads on sportsmen to +the nest of the wild bee, but also to the lairs of wild +animals. Shortly afterwards the Greek stopped, and I +noticed he had seen something; they were the koodoo +we had been tracking up, though I did not see them +myself.</p> + +<p>When we got to the top of the hill the view was +lovely. The valley of Sabargouma lay in the distance, +and beyond it the low hills between us and the sea-coast. +We then returned to camp, and on the way +back I took a shot at a pig with my little 16-bore gun. +We had a haunch of the venison for dinner; it was +very good, but without fat.</p> + +<p>The rain poured down the best part of the night; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> +and, unluckily, we had put our beds at that end of the +shanty which was most leaky. I woke up and found +myself enjoying a shower-bath from the roof. H. was +much in the same plight, and we were both glad when +morning broke.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 12.</i>—A good breakfast and some hot cocoa +soon warmed us up, and we started for Beatmohar, +the place where General Kirkham has a house. +This is the first table-land of Abyssinia that one +comes to, travelling by this route. Our luggage +was now carried by mules, donkeys, and bullocks, +driven by Shoho Arabs. It rained the whole day, so +the view of the hills was spoilt, which I regretted +very much. At the sides of the hills at the feet of +which the path wound, it was covered with a gigantic +Euphorbia, called Qualqual in Abyssinia; it is a sort +of cactus, or grows like cactus, to the height of forty +feet or more. When its branches are wounded, a +milky juice oozes out, which is highly poisonous; if +the least drop gets into one's eye it nearly blinds +one. In India, in 1870, when shooting in the Himalayas, +I was amusing myself with my hunting-knife +by slashing at a plant, very much like this one; a +drop of the juice squirted into my eye. One of the +hunters, a native, brought me a sort of creeper with a +leaf much like a vine. He screwed up the stalk of it, +and catching the juice in the palm of his hand, offered +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span> +me some, and told me to put it in my eye; it afforded +instantaneous relief. I do not think this cure is +known to the Abyssinians, as their woodcutters sometimes +lose their eyesight. Later in the day, as we +reached a higher altitude, we saw no more of this +poisonous plant. We travelled on slowly through the +mist and rain, the bullocks slipping about over the +rocks, and frequently having to be reloaded, or +the leather thongs which bound their baggage +tightened up.</p> + +<p>At last we came to an open dell in the hills, one of +the camping-places on this road, called Mehdet. Kirkham +and myself with great difficulty, and after wasting +a number of matches, managed to light a fire, and we +warmed up some cold venison, frying it in oil that +Kirkham produced. H. did not like the dish, saying +that it tasted like hair grease; he preferred the +venison <i>au naturel</i>: we ate a box of sardines, and +then started again. The road became very steep; at +four in the afternoon we reached the top of the pass, +a narrow gully between high rocks: there would be +just room for two men to walk abreast.</p> + +<p>The road after this for a short way was very good, +like a good hill-road in the Himalayas. At the bottom +of this road was a small valley, called Maihenzee: this +was to be our camping-place for the night, and one of +the stages between Asmarra and Gindar. This was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> +the place where merchants from the interior generally +stop on their way to Massowah.</p> + +<p>There was good water in the valley; we pitched +our tents, but everything was wet and miserable. +Kirkham told us that to-morrow we should be out of +these rains, which I was very thankful to hear.</p> + +<p>The cook Ali, a Cairo man, who, like all his species, +did not relish this sort of life, but wished himself on +board a comfortable <i>diabeha</i> navigating the Nile and +smoking cigarettes in the sun, made a bad fire, and I +saw very little prospect of dinner. I had to take his +place; and I concocted some soup with the help of +Liebig's extract, and I made a venison stew. We +ate this and then turned in as quickly as we could, +before our blankets got wet with the mist. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +A STRANGE "GET-UP"—AN UNLUCKY SHOT—CRANES—AN INSOLENT +"CHICKER"—OUR COOLIES STRIKE—FLORICAN—SERVANT HUNTING—NIGHT +MARCHING—FIRST SIGHT OF THE MAREB—"LONG LIE"—COPTIC +CHURCH—A PEAL OF STONE BELLS—HIGHWAY ROBBERY—A +CHASE—DOMESTIC QUARREL—LUGGAGE DIFFICULTIES—A +MOONLIGHT RACE. +</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 13.</i>—We made an early start this morning, +as it was a lovely day, and left the tents behind to +stand and dry, as they would have been very heavy +to pack wet. The General accompanied us; he would +have looked a queer figure on an Aldershot field day. +He wore an undress general's uniform, with a large +sword clanking by his side, sitting on an Abyssinian +saddle with rather faded trappings; he rode a +mule, the sword clanking against every rock on the +narrow path. We saw some partridges on the road, +and I had a crack at one and wounded it, but it soon +made away. Kirkham jumped off his mule and +rushed after the bird, sword and all, to finish it off +or catch it; but these birds run like hares, and the +game was soon lost in the thick bushes. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span></p> + +<p>We went on ascending, and as we did the vegetation +became thinner and thinner. At the top stunted +yew-trees grew, so it must be cold here at most seasons +of the year. We then went over some low hills, and +at length found ourselves on a large plain, with cultivated +land here and there. A flock of large cranes +were flying round and round; at last they settled +on a bit of ploughed land not far from the road.</p> + +<p>I rode towards them and tried to stalk them, but +they would not let me come very close. I fired my +16-bore gun into the "brown" as they rose, but it had +no effect. I would recommend all future sportsmen +to take out wire cartridges with them: one never +knows what one may come across in a wild country, +and a wire cartridge at close quarters would act +like a bullet, and for long shots of course they are +capital.</p> + +<p>In the distance might be seen the village of Asmarra; +the houses flat-roofed and built into the side +of the low hill on which the village stands. About +ten or twelve of the natives came out to meet us; +they saluted us respectfully, and we touched our +hats. They had come out not only to meet us but also +to stop our baggage-bullocks from coming any farther +than the top of the hills, as there was cattle disease +among the herds of the Shoho Arabs, and an order +had been issued all through Abyssinia that no cattle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> +were to travel, or be allowed to go to or from infected +districts: this is worthy the notice of our sanitary +commissioners at home. Kirkham had trotted on, to +make arrangements at his house for us. We left the +village of Asmarra, and on our left the ground fell; as +we rode on we passed several pools. In the distance +flocks of fat-tailed sheep might be seen cropping the +short grass, they were of the breed spoken of before, +and celebrated throughout Abyssinia. One fat sheep +costs a Maria Theresa dollar;<a name="FNanchor_6" id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> + but two small ones +can be bought for the same money.</p> + +<p>We saw Kirkham's little house, with a roof like an +extinguisher, in front of us; it was perched on a high +cliff that overlooked the plain, which was dotted +about with water-pools. Kirkham had told us they +were famous places for ducks, and sometimes snipe.</p> + +<p>We soon arrived at the house; it was surrounded +by the usual hedge to be seen round all Abyssinian +houses; this hedge is not growing, but made of thorn-branches +and stakes. The few houses which composed +the village of Beatmohar were close by. Kirkham +at once produced some honey-wine, called "tej" +in Abyssinia; it was excellent, and proved very refreshing +after our ride. "Tej" is made in the following +way: to one part of honey are added seven parts +of water, and well mixed; then some leaves of a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span> +plant called "geshoo" are put into the mixture, to +make it ferment; it is put outside in the shade and +left for a day or two. A piece of cotton cloth is +strained over the mouth of the large earthenware jar, +or "gumbo," and through this the "tej" is poured; +the servant tapping the cloth with his fingers to make +the liquid run freely. If one wants to make it stronger, +the first brew is used instead of the water; adding +honey and geshoo leaves in the same way. In the +time of King Theodore that monarch had tej five +years old, which made any one drunk in a very short +time; but those were the "good old times" which +we read of.</p> + +<p>We ate some lunch, and I took out my gun and +went for a stroll; I shot a large blue crane, and saw +some ducks. I went out again with H. in the evening +to look out for ducks; a flock of teal just as it was +getting dark came whistling over my head, but I was +not quick enough for them. On my way home I shot +an owl, which I presented to Fisk for stuffing. He +informed me it was identically the same as the barn +owl at home. I was rather disgusted, as I thought an +Abyssinian owl must be different from the home +species; but he insisted that he had shot lots of them +in Norfolk, and said the skin of it was not worth the +carriage home. Over this I got rather "chaffed," so +I resolved not to shoot any more Abyssinian owls. I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> +believe it is considered very unlucky to shoot an +owl!</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 14.</i>—This night we were very comfortable, +sleeping in a sort of divan that Kirkham had put up, +round the inner room of his house. It was a great +relief to know before turning into it that the sleeper +would not be the unwilling victim of a leaky roof.</p> + +<p>We had settled, H. and I, and Fisk, to go at +dawn of day to try and get some duck in a pool +just at the foot of the high rock on which the house +stood, so next morning off we started. It was bitterly +cold and a white frost on the ground. We crept down +to the pool and let fly all six barrels into the middle +of the flock. Sad to relate, only three fell, which were +not picked up; one of Kirkham's Galla boys was sent +down later in the day and discovered two.</p> + +<p>We then proceeded up the pools; I flushed a +snipe and knocked him down, he was rather a lean +specimen of his kind. On our way home I saw those +large cranes again coming towards me, so I squatted +down as close to the ground as I could and waited; +the flock kept coming on, making a great noise and +screeching, but they saw me and wheeled away. +One old gentleman, rather in advance of the others, +wheeled rather close to me; I let fly my 16-bore +No. 1 shot: it did not seem to affect him in the least, +when after going a little way, all of a sudden he fell +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> +like a stone. I ran as hard as I could and found him +quite dead, with his backbone cut right through by +the shot; how he could possibly have kept flying in +this state I do not know. His shank-bones will +make excellent pipe stems.</p> + +<p>The rest of this day we were engaged in again +shifting our provisions, etc., into skin bags; as boxes +are very bad things to carry either by coolies, mules, +or donkeys. It is the custom in Abyssinia to have +all one's baggage, as far as possible, packed in these +bags, and then the coolies do not mind carrying +them so much. A box is so hard it hurts a man's +shoulder when he carries it, and as for mules and +donkeys it means sore backs at once; besides, the +leather thongs that bind the box on to the mule are +always slipping. We paid a Maria Theresa for two +of these bags, and found it rather difficult to get +them. Kirkham had gone to Asmarra to make +arrangements for coolies, and when he came back, he +said everything was completed, and that we should +start to-morrow at sunrise. Vain hope, as the reader +will see; for, instead of starting at sunrise, we started +at sunset. The people who dwell in the gorgeous +East have no idea of time, and always think that +Europeans are in a hurry, and that to-morrow will +do as well as to-day.</p> + +<p>We had sent a message to Belata Keda Kedan, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span> +the chief of this province: he lives at a town called +Tzazega, about half a day's journey from Beatmohar.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 15.</i>—In the morning no coolies appeared: +one of the "chickers," or tax collectors, or head-men +of the village, was very insolent; he brought three +coolies, and asked an exorbitant price. I said I +would not give it; he then walked away laughing, +followed by the coolies, saying, "Well, you won't get +them at all now." I thought to myself, "My friend, +you shall pay for this." I then politely asked him to +walk into our enclosure, shut the door, and made a +prisoner of him; put a guard over him, and told him +he should wait.</p> + +<p>Kirkham's and the Galla boys were delighted; they +thought, the young rascals, there was a chance of a +fight. We waited till the afternoon, when, coming +across the plain, we saw the chief, followed by a large +retinue, some on mules, some with shields, spears, +and guns, holding little plaited straw umbrellas over +their heads. I made arrangement that only the chief +himself and a few of his followers should be allowed +inside our little enclosure. When he arrived I met +him at the door, and escorted him inside the house. +We then told him all that had happened, and had the +prisoner brought in. The chief questioned him, and +then ordered him outside to be thrashed; but he was +not punished, as he implored to be let off, and said he +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> +would use his best endeavours to get people of the +village to carry our baggage. We gave our Egyptian +soldiers a present, and they went back to Massowah.</p> + +<p>We here changed our plans, as K. said it was only +a waste of time going to Adowa on our way to +the shooting on the Mareb and Tackazzee, and we +might do it coming back. Eventually, after the +chief's soldiers and followers had hunted up the +villagers, and dragged them, kicked them, and beat +them, they were made to carry our baggage. We +started about one hour before sunset, the coolies +having gone in front. The reason that the soldiers +treated the villagers in this way was, that the king, +who was far away, had heard there were some +Englishmen coming into the country, and had given +orders to the chiefs or governors that we were to +be treated with respect, and everything that we wanted +done for us.</p> + +<p>We travelled across a large table-land with not a +vestige of foliage to be seen, and no sound to be +heard but now and then the bleating of the sheep as +they were driven to their pens near the villages for +the night. The moon rose, and we very soon found +ourselves near a village called Adouguada. All our +coolies had stopped; the lazy fellows had scarcely +been travelling for two hours; they had handed our +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> +baggage over to the head-man of the village. This +is a usual mode of proceeding in Abyssinia; one is +passed on from village to village, and if the villages +happen to be close together the day is spent in +quarrelling and in looking over and counting the +baggage. When I rode up they were all talking at +once and making a horrid noise, as is usual on such +occasions. I asked for a hearing, and informed the +villagers of Adouguada that if they did not carry our +baggage I should take two cows and two sheep +from the village, and stop there all that night with my +servants; under these circumstances they would have +to provide us with bread, etc. Brou, the interpreter, +advised me to do this; he said, "It is the only way +to get on, and you are travelling in the king's name, +and can have what you want." H. then came up +with K., and we procured something to eat and some +coffee. The villagers made much noise and gesticulation, +and then at last picked up <i>half</i> our things +and went off.</p> + +<p>We then started for Sellaadarou, the place we were +going to camp at that night. It was bright moonlight, +and the moon in the East, as some of my +readers probably know, appears very different from +our moon at home. It was a beautiful ride, but a +little cold. We arrived at Sellaadarou about nine +<span class="s08">P.M.</span>, or perhaps a little later. K., like an old soldier +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> +as he was, pitched the camp just outside the village, +in a sort of little garden that the villagers had made +to grow their capsicums in; it was surrounded by a +thick thorn hedge, made of boughs cut from the +thorny acacia. This hedge provided us with wood +without any trouble; so we made two large bonfires +to warm ourselves, ate some supper, and turned in +after a long worrying day. The other half of the +baggage had not come up when we retired to our +tents.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 16: Sellaadarou.</i>—After breakfast this morning +I went out shooting, taking with me a native of +the village to show me the way. I "put up" some +partridges, among them a young florican, which I +shot, much to the astonishment of the Abyssinian. +They never can make out how birds can be shot +while on the wing, as their plan is to get as near +as possible, and then "pot" the birds on the ground—a +very good one too, if the sportsman is hungry. I +never knew before that there were floricans in Abyssinia; +there are plenty in some parts of India. The +bird was delicious eating. I saw two dark mouse-brown +deer, but could not get at them, and, of course, +for a long shot I wanted my Express rifle. When I +came into camp I found that some of the villagers of +Sellaadarou had carried on a few of our things. +H. had been round the village with some of our servants +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> +to beat up the natives; he said it was great +fun running from house to house trying to catch the +men, the women swearing that their husbands or +sons were away. Abyssinian servants, on occasions +like these, always filch any little things they can +quietly lay their hands on, and bring them to their +master afterwards; I had on several occasions to +punish servants for this, and make them take the +things back. H. started in the afternoon with a little +more of the baggage. I told him we must force our +way on, and, as he was now on the move, to go as +far as he could. It will be seen afterwards he did a +capital march.</p> + +<p>Chickut was the name of the village K. told us +we could camp at. It was rather a short march, +and I knew H. would go farther, for we had been +very much annoyed by these continual delays, so we +agreed that he should go on to the next village +beyond Chickut. K. then went back to Adouguada +to fetch up the other half of our baggage left behind; +I said I would wait for him. Time went on, and +it got later and later. Fisk, who had stayed with +me, said he would go out and try to get something +good for dinner, in case we should have to stop +the night here. Just at sunset I saw K. in the +distance, kicking his old mule along as fast as he +could; he rode up and said Maria Theresa had won +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> +the day—meaning the dollars. "All right," said I; +"let us have something to eat—then we must start +and make a night march of it." Fisk then came in +and we made some soup.</p> + +<p>There was nobody to carry the few things that +remained here, so we determined to use our mules as +pack animals and walk; and a nice walk it was, too. +Fisk's white mule, bought at Massowah, declined to +keep the baggage on her back, and twice kicked all +the things off, scattering them right and left. Among +them was the spirit case and medicine chest; thank +goodness, neither were broken. I had them made +after my own fashion, so this was a severe test for +them. The white mule had to be ridden after all, +and poor K. had to give up his riding-mule to carry +the things. We started an hour and a half after sunset,<a name="FNanchor_7" id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> + +and walked well right into Chickut, where we +arrived about eight <span class="s08">P.M.</span> The whole village was in a +deep sleep, and we were only greeted by a few barking +dogs.</p> + +<p>The road from Sellaadarou to Chickut is very +rugged, and is a steep descent, but it was a lovely +moonlight night, and what we could see of the view +was glorious. Euphorbia, and the wild olive, formed +a great feature in the magnificent scenery. Poor K. +stuck to the walking well, but he had on a thin pair +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span> +of button boots, which were rather trying to his poor +feet over the rocks. He would insist that H. had +stopped at Chickut, but I knew very well that he had +gone on. I then told him what I had said to him +before we started. We had some cold soup we +brought with us, and shared a small biscuit between +us. H. had taken all the provisions on in front with +him.</p> + +<p>The road descended more or less steeply from +Chickut to Deevaroua, and at last we came to the +Mareb. Here it is a small stream, and rises in a +high mountain about four miles from this place. K. +told me that the ground at the foot of the mountain +was swampy, and that there were springs as well all +the year round. This river Mareb is the Gash of the +country in and near Kassala. In its course across +the desert to Kassala its waters are absorbed by the +desert sands, but it is a foaming, muddy torrent +during the rains. This is one of the Nile tributaries +of Abyssinia, mentioned in Sir Samuel Baker's book. +I wish I had been able to fix the source of this +river exactly, but I had no instruments or other +appliances with which to work; I hope to do this +eventually.</p> + +<p>The village of Deevaroua, where we were to stop for +the rest of the night, was on the top of the gorge +through which the little stream of the Mareb runs. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> +A large and most beautiful tree, of the species <i>Ficus +Indica</i>, spread its branches near the stream. From +this we drank excellent water, and then went up to +the village. After a little wandering about we found +where H. had pitched K.'s tent, which he had taken +on with him; all were asleep and snoring. I had a +good mind to "draw" H., but it was a quarter to +eleven, so I let him repose in peace. K. roused up his +Abyssinian cook, Blanche<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> + by name, and she made +us some coffee. The servants pitched our tent, and I +turned in, very tired but not exhausted. It has been +shrewdly observed of the air on these hills, that it +is "like champagne, minus the headache."</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 17.</i>—We all took a "long lie" this Sunday +morning, it being a day of rest, and when we did +get up we found ourselves encamped near the village, +and close to a little Coptic church. The view was extensive, +while across the table-land, which was intersected +by watercourses that looked like broken ditches, +might be seen three pointed rocky hills which rose up +out of this bare plain and formed a marked feature in +the landscape. On the side of one of these hills +nestled the village of Terramnee,<a name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> + which was to be our +next halt. After breakfast we agreed to go and see +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> +the Coptic church, so we sent to the priests to say we +were coming to pay them a visit. They replied in a +short time, saying they were ready to receive us, and +met us at the gate of the enclosure which surrounds each +of these churches; we then walked up a narrow path +to the church door. The priest and his two attendants +all bowed down and touched the threshold of the +church with their heads before entering; it was a +round edifice, with the usual "extinguisher" roof. A +narrow passage runs round the inside of it between +the outer wall and the "holy of holies," the entrance +to which was covered by a sort of ragged curtain. +The outside wall of the "holy of holies" was covered +with rude frescoes—St. George and the Dragon, the +Virgin Mary, etc. The Virgin was portrayed with +very large eyes like saucers; St. George was a meek-looking +creature, sticking his spear into the dragon, +but looking in an exactly opposite direction. Rude +frescoes, very similar in style, may be seen at the +parish church of Chaldon, near Caterham, in Surrey. +As we were coming away I saw some long stones +hung up by grass ropes on a pole, supported by two +short sticks; I asked what they were. They said these +were used instead of church bells. They were musical +stones, in fact, which, when struck, gave out a very +pretty sound; they were chosen so as to make a +scale of three notes. We gave the priest a dollar for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> +the good of the church, at which he seemed pleased +and astonished.</p> + +<p>At Deevaroua I bought a large cured cowskin, to +make sandals for our servants when we got into the +jungle. This I would recommend travellers to do, as +the sharp grass and thorns are too much for even the +horny feet of the Abyssinians, and the cowskin +proved of great use afterwards.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i087" id="i087"></a> +<img src="images/i_087.jpg" width="550" height="332" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">A RACE FOR A SPEAR.<br /> +<span class="s08"><i>To face page 70.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p>About mid-day I started alone with Brou, who was to +show me the way to Terramnee, and to get coolies there +to carry on our things to Koudoofellassie, when we +should be out of this province, which we have had so +much difficulty in getting through. I saw a ballaga<a name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> +coming towards me, the mule he was riding kicking +and plunging about as viciously as ever I saw any +animal do. I said to myself, "I must make the acquaintance +of this gentleman;" so I rode up to him +and said, "How d'ye do?" and asked him to let me +look at his spear. While I was looking at it I edged +away, then, giving my mule a good kick, galloped off +as hard as I could, spear and all. He was quite taken +aback at first, but soon began chasing me. We had +a nice little spurt, but, as bad luck would have it, one +of these watercourses was in front of me, and the way +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> +across it lay to my left, which would bring us almost +together. He saw his chance, and whipped up his +mule, who had the legs of mine, and caught me; +I then pulled up, and he asked for his spear. I +delayed a minute or two, and then began laughing. +He seemed to understand the joke, and I gave him +back his spear; he told Brou, who was following +after me, that he really thought I meant to take it +away from him. I heard them laughing a little way +behind me. Abyssinians are very cheery fellows, +always ready for a joke, provided it does not touch +their pockets.</p> + +<p>When we reached Terramnee I sent for the chicker, +or head-man of the village, and they said they would go +and fetch him. There was an assembly of natives in +the village, all jabbering at once. I asked Brou what +it was all about, and he said it was a dispute between a +man and his wife; one party takes the wife's part, +and another the husband's; judges are appointed, +and they "jaw" away as hard as they can. Several +natives had come in from neighbouring villages about +this. At length, when it was over, they had the +civility to attend to me: the old story—the chicker +could not be found; he was in the fields; they had +sent for him, etc. I asked, "Where's his house?" +They showed it me, and I went up to it. The old +gentleman was at the bottom of the hill which I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span> +had gone up, and in a friend's house. I told him I +wanted men to carry our things to Koudoofellassie, +and he said he would do his best, but he was not +chicker over all the village, and would send round +to the others. H. and K., with luggage and servants, +came up, and then we had a nice row; the +chickers vowed they would have our things carried, +but the natives would scarcely obey the chickers. I +called my old friend, whom I had first seen, and +told him that if we did not go on that day I should +take him a prisoner to the chief at Koudoofellassie, +in whose province the village of Terramnee was. Bit +by bit our luggage was picked up and carried on; +only the heaviest part of it remained.</p> + +<p>The day wore on, and we got more and more +impatient. At last the chicker said, "The people +will not obey us; you must go round the village and +beat them up with your servants." The natives +were hiding away in any available corner. H. and +I went into one house where we had been told +there was a man; the house was quite dark inside, +having no windows or openings of any sort. We +struck a lucifer—I do not suppose they had ever +seen one before. H. descried a man in a corner +and pulled him out, but he turned out to be an +aged priest, exempt from doing coolie work. The +old fellow was much disturbed, but we apologised and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span> +said we were very sorry, and he retired to his corner +quietly but grumpily. Such visits as these to the houses +of the natives reminded me very much of what is stated +of the English soldiers hunting for rebels in 1798. +We managed to get a good number of the natives +unearthed. Directly one was caught he was sent off +under care of one of our servants to where our after +baggage was lying; a package was given him, and he +was started for Koudoofellassie immediately. The +only thing that now remained was H.'s large tin +case. Tuckloo, one of the chickers, said there was +not a young man left in the village. I said, "It +must be carried, or I tie you to my mule and take +you into Koudoofellassie to the chief." He considered +a moment, and then another man and himself slung +it on a pole and carried it off. H., Fisk, and myself +now started "by moonlight alone" for Koudoofellassie. +The road lay across a plain almost all the +way, so we galloped our mules along at a great pace: +the old fellow, Belata Keda Kedan, sent with us +to guide us safely through his province, shouting +at us and telling us to take care of the holes as +we rode. We raced into camp about ten <span class="s08">P.M.</span>, +yelling and shouting, being guided by the light of +our fires.</p> + +<p>We found the camp pitched and dinner ready; K. +had gone in front and done all this. Borum Braswouldeselassie, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> +the chief of this province, was waiting +by the camp fire for us; a pleasant-looking, middle-aged +man, who had seen good service with the king. +He said anything we wanted we were to ask him for, +and he would come the first thing in the morning +and see us again. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +A GENERAL BATH—RELIGIOUS PROCESSION—THE GAME OF GOUX—DINNER-PARTY +IN A STABLE—ETIQUETTE—GRAM—FRENCH LEAVE—HOSTILITIES—A +PARLEY AND RECONCILIATION—NATIVE BEER—A +WHIRLWIND—CULTIVATION—ROADS—FINE SCENERY—A TALISMAN—A +FIANCÉE—CAPTURE OF A GUIDE—ROBBERS AND THEIR +PUNISHMENT—THE CROPS—CAMP ON THE MAREB—TOMATOS—LIONS—A +NARROW ESCAPE—SPEAR THROWING. +</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 18.</i>—To-day, after breakfast, I overhauled most +of my things, guns, fishing-tackle, etc., and put them +in good order. The old soldier that Belata Keda +Kedan had sent with us was much interested in all +he saw. I asked him if he would like to go to +England. He replied, "I would go to your country +if you would give me lots of tej and araké, and +nothing to do." It was very amusing to see him +admiring his face in a little toy looking-glass that +H. had given him. He was to leave us here (Koudoofellassie), +so we gave him a present of ten Maria +Theresa dollars, and he went his way rejoicing.</p> + +<p>Borum Braswouldeselassie had come to see us +before breakfast; he did not stop long, as he said +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span> +he had to go with his soldiers and followers to attend +the feast of Baptism. On this day all the population +of the town go down to the river and bathe; the +priests pray, and I believe bathe also. After we +had taken breakfast Brou told us that if we went a +little way out of camp into the town we should see +the priests and procession returning from the river. +We stood on the top of a high mound, and very soon +heard a most discordant braying of horns in the +distance. The procession now approached, the priests +bearing the sacred image of the Virgin, with a canopy +held over it; little boys were walking in front with +incense. They were singing a monotonous chant alternately, +the women all taking it up at one time and +the men at another. Borum Braswouldeselassie and +his horsemen were in front of the procession, galloping +about with their horses and firing off their guns. +The whole thing, except for the horsemen, looked +very much like a Roman Catholic procession. They +marched past us up to the church, and we saw them +no more. K. said that on occasions of this sort +the Abyssinian horsemen play a game called <i>goux</i>, +so I begged of him to send a message to Borum +Braswouldeselassie, asking him to send some of his +soldiers to play the game, in order that we might see +it. About three or four came out on a flat piece of +ground, which was the market-place, and commenced +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> +galloping their horses at full speed and throwing their +sticks at each other like spears, receiving them on +their shields. I believe there is a Turkish game, +called Jerrid, which is much the same thing. Their +horses were wretched specimens—thin, bony screws, +that could not gallop as fast as a person could kick his +hat. I asked one of them if he would let me get up +and try the game. So one of my servants asked, +"Will you lend the Feringee your horse?" He said, +"The Feringee! oh no," and galloped away as hard +as he could. When we had seen this, we determined +to go and pay a visit to Borum Braswouldeselassie. +We found him just about to sit down to his dinner, +and he asked us to join him. My readers must not +imagine a table and chairs at this entertainment, as +the dinner was held in a stable; Borum Braswouldeselassie +and his family sitting on the ground. The +first thing they began to eat was some "tef"—a sort +of spongy, sour bread, made in large thin cakes. This +they dipped into a paste of red pepper, and ate it with +their fingers. Borum Bras. had some very good "tej," +of which we drank. There was also some stewed meat, +which was broken up in bits by the servants with +their fingers, and then the dish was given to the lady +of the house, who divided the portions equally and +handed them to each member of the family as well as +to the guests. The enormous quantity of bread and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> +red pepper of the most pungent kind which Abyssinians +manage to get through is something extraordinary; +they wash it down with plenty of "tej," +which is a capital thing to take away the fiery heat the +red pepper creates in the mouth. The correct thing +to do at an Abyssinian dinner is to take a large +bit of bread or meat in your hand and stuff it into +your neighbour's mouth; this is considered the acme +of good manners; also, your first glass of "tej" is +generally handed to you by the master of the house.</p> + +<p>In the evening H. and myself went out shooting, +K. having told us that there were some grouse in +the low hills near camp, and I shot at a young +bird, but missed. The old cocks were calling just in +the same way they do on a Scotch moor—the same +note, but not quite so strong. I tried to approach +some more, but it was very steep walking in some +places, and the birds were exceedingly wild.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 19.</i>—To-day was market-day at Koudoofellassie, +and Brou and myself, on our way to our +next camp, stopped under the shade of a small tree +round which the market was held. The people were +coming in fast with honey and butter, corn of different +sorts, sulphur for making powder, etc. etc. The +country folks directly they arrived squatted down in +a line. I tried to buy a jar of honey, but of course +they stuck on the price for the Feringee. About +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> +eleven <span class="s08">A.M.</span>, or perhaps a little before, I started with +Brou for Adgousmou, the next village we were to stop +at. Goubasee, who was my gun-bearer, walked the +whole time in front of my mule; I stopped under a +tree for about fifteen minutes and then went on. This +was a long march, and we were going fast. Goubasee +eventually turned out to be, as I had thought he +was, a wonderful walker, always in front of everybody +in the longest march, and never shirking any difficulty +that came in his way; in fact, he was a most faithful +and useful servant, the only Abyssinian among our +crew whom I could really depend upon. The country +we were going through was table-land intersected by +broad ravines.</p> + +<p>My servants pointed me out two large trees in the +distance; near these they said was the village of +Adgousmou. Abyssinian servants have quite an original +way of provisioning as they march along. +If they pass any cornfields, particularly the Indian +<i>gram</i>, they run into the corn and take as much +as they want, not only for their own eating, but +for their master's mules. This is done regardless +of the shouts and imprecations of the boys who +are sent out from the villages to watch the corn, +perched in some places on a high heap of stones, in +others on a rude platform supported on forked poles. +This same <i>gram</i>, if the pods when quite green are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> +well-boiled, makes an excellent substitute for peas. +Before going up to the village of Adgousmou we +crossed a stream, where I shot a spurwing and a pigeon +very like our common wood-pigeon, only not quite +so large. I killed these birds in case H. should not +turn up after my arrival with the tents, provisions, +etc. I then rode into the village and asked for the +chicker. He soon came, and was a fine-looking old +man. I asked him for some bread for my servants; +he said he had none—a reply that was plainly untrue. +He then sent for a bowl of sour milk, which +was very nasty. I gave it to Goubasee, who soon +polished it off and seemed to enjoy it immensely. +The old chicker and I sat in silence for some little time +enjoying the view, at least I did, and at length I arose +and went away, as I saw no prospect of getting anything +out of the old niggard. I settled the camp +should be near some trees outside the village; a ruined +village also, probably the old village of Adgousmou, +was close by. I made the servants light a fire, and I +sat down to consider; but I soon began to feel very +hungry. What was to be done? I had nothing +to eat, when I suddenly bethought myself of my two +birds. But how to cook them? I adopted the old +poacher's plan of spitting them on the ramrod of my +rifle, and made Mahomed, the Massowah boy, roast +me some corn I had taken with me for my mule. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> +With these victuals I made a tolerably fair lunch, +washed down with water—<i>fames optimum condimentum</i>, +as the Latin grammar says. It was getting +late in the day and I was becoming bored, so I +said to Brou, who had been loitering behind on the +road and had not long come up, "We had better go +to the village to forage, as perhaps there has been a +difficulty about getting our baggage carried on from +Koudoofellassie, and the things will not come up to-night." +He answered, "Very well." So we all started +to the village.</p> + +<p>I went up to the old chicker's house and asked for +bread, or, in fact, anything that he had. His wife—who +was as big a liar as himself—told me that she +had nothing. So I went straight in and took a large +jug of beer and a jar of honey, gave them to my +servants to carry, and walked back towards our future +camping-place. The old lady now began to yell, and +the other women of the village joined in chorus. The +men in the village all turned out with spears, shields, +guns, sticks, etc., and surrounded us, making a horrid +noise. They managed to get the beer away from us, +but we stuck to the honey, and one of the servants +and myself brought it to the tree where I had been +sitting. The natives continued yelling, and Brou tried +to pacify them. Some of the young fellows said, "We +will die! we will die! but you shall not keep the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span> +honey"—Brou having told them I would shoot if +they tried to molest me. The noise went on, and I +thought it was likely to get serious, when suddenly +there was a lull, and a priest stepped out from the +crowd and requested a parley with me. I went up to +him, and he made me a bow and said something in +Amharic, which it is needless to say I did not understand. +The Abyssinians are Coptic Christians, +and I thought I would try him with a text from the +Bible; so I said, "I asked for bread, and they gave +me a stone." I never before saw a man's face change +so completely; Brou had interpreted the sentence +exactly. The priest then said, "You speak like a +king; these people are only dirt in comparison with +you," etc. Well, it all ended by my keeping the +honey, and the villagers returning to their houses. +We made up a good fire. Brou produced some bread, +which I ate with the honey; it was excellent—stolen +fruit is always the sweetest. I piled the arms near +the fire, rolled myself up in a <i>shama</i> of Brou's, and +lay down on a sheepskin to go to sleep. I had almost +dozed off when H. arrived with all the baggage. +The reason he was so late was that the men at +Koudoofellassie demanded exorbitant prices. We +have now twenty coolies and three donkeys to carry +into Adiaboo. K. made this arrangement: so we +shall have no more trouble for some little time. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span> +Borum Bras. brought with him a man chained to +one of his soldiers; this individual, who was, I believe, +a murderer, was going to the king to be tried. +The law in Abyssinia is the old Mosaic one—"an +eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth."</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 20.</i>—We started about half-past nine in the +morning, accompanied by Borum Bras., the chief, and +all his followers. He was to go with us as far as the +boundary of his province, and there leave us. He +rode a very fine mule, with his horse led in front of +him. The mule turned out to be a fencer; Borum Bras. +popping over a thorn hedge in very good form as we +went along. We stopped for a short rest at Adwahla, +a village, and Borum Bras. made his followers bring +us some beer, which is made from the Dargousa +grain. I thought it very nasty, but my servants +soon drank it all. I saw a rather curious phenomenon +here: there was a sudden rush of wind, +then in a moment we were enveloped in a cloud of +dust. It was one of those whirlwinds which very +often occur in the East, especially on broad plains. +There is not a breath of wind stirring, but, all of a +sudden, you see a little curl of dust coming towards +you; and it gets larger and larger as it proceeds. All +the dust of the village was carried up in a column +towards the skies. One of Borum Bras.'s servants, on +seeing this, immediately covered me up in the cotton +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> +cloth he was wearing; and I scarcely know which +was worse, the smell of the Abyssinian's garment or +that of the dust.</p> + +<p>All the country we had been travelling through was +highly cultivated, and the ballagas were, as far as I +could see, breaking up fresh land every day for +sowing; in fact, I should say that the whole province +of Tigré was in a very prosperous condition. It is a +great pity such a country as this, which to all intents +and purposes is close to Europe, should not be made +use of in some way or other. Cotton would grow in +most parts with great luxuriance; it is grown in the +province of Walkait, and brought into the rest of +Abyssinia by large caravans, who exchange it for +grain, salt, etc. In the valleys among the hills I +believe all sorts of things would grow, and in a short +time I hope to send out seeds of all the English +vegetables, to make a trial of them at Gindar. There +is one plant which would return very high profits to +the growers, and that is <i>cinchona</i>, for quinine. Where +plenty of water is to be had I am sure this plant +would do well. Of course the great drawback to all +commerce in Abyssinia is the badness of the roads; +in fact, there are no roads, merely paths across the +table-lands, and as a rule among the hills the roads +follow the dry watercourses.</p> + +<p>When Borum Bras. and his servants had had enough +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span> +beer we started again. He accompanied us to the +verge of this large table-land we had been going over, +and seemed very particular about the exact boundary +of his province and the spot where to leave us. We +got off our mules and said, "Good-bye," shaking +hands with him. He wished us a pleasant journey +and abundant sport; and so we parted with the most +civil Abyssinian I had yet met. The ground fell very +suddenly here, and we began to descend a rocky +road. If I could only make the reader appreciate the +beautiful scenery that now lay spread before us! but +I am afraid that words would convey but a poor idea +of its grandeur and beauty; so we must continue on +our road. Some parts of the descent were so steep +that I had to get off my mule and walk. We had +thoughtlessly omitted to bring cruppers for our saddles, +so we often found ourselves nearly astride of the mule's +head instead of his back; the only way to remedy +this was to get off and shift the saddle, which was +tiresome work. K. told me that this was a fearful +hill to ascend during the rains, the mules slipping +about and tumbling down. We got to our camping-place +about two hours before sunset—a pretty spot +with plenty of grass, and the water came from +deep pools close by. I took my gun and went +for a stroll but saw nothing, and I only heard an +old cock grouse calling. H. had gone in an opposite +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> +direction, but he too had seen nothing to provide +sport.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 21.</i>—This morning we had time to look about +us before starting; the township of Gundet lay +scattered over the little hills which rose out of this +valley. I resolved to go up to the village and +procure a goat and some bread. K. had provided us +with a document which was stamped with the king's +seal; this, when the Abyssinians saw it, had the +effect of making them give what was wanted. The +king seldom if ever gives his seal to any one; and the +seal itself, from which the impression is taken, is +carried about hung round the neck of one of his page +boys. I started with Goubasee and Brou for one of +the cluster of huts I saw on the top of the hill; the +servants said it was there the chief of the village +resided. The ascent was steep, but we caught the old +gentleman sitting outside his house basking in the +morning sun; no doubt he would have bolted if he +had had any intimation of our coming. We said, +"How d'ye do?" and then I showed him the king's +seal, and said we wanted a young fat goat, of which +there are large herds here. The cattle of Gundet are +also very fine. He said if we would come into his +house he would talk about it. Well-to-do Abyssinians +always have a large round hut set apart for the reception +of visitors. His son produced some "tej," which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span> +was very good, and turning round to his father just +before pouring it out he said laughingly, "I don't +know whether we ought to be drinking this tej, which +is made for my marriage feast." I asked him if his +future wife was pretty; he said, "Oh, yes, and she +has plenty of cattle." This is the usual dowry in +Abyssinia, especially among the ballagas; so my +readers will see that people in that country marry for +a fortune as much as ours do at home.</p> + +<p>H. and K. now came up to the house. The fat +goat was brought and given to one of the servants to +drive before him; and we started for the Mareb, where +we were going to stay a little time to shoot. There was +a difficulty about finding our way, so we took a guide +from one of the villages as we passed. This man did +not seem to understand where we wanted to go to, +and took us to another village, rather out of our road. +Here we had a dispute, as a man from this village +refused to go with us as guide; we tied him by his +<i>shama</i> to our first guide, and sent them on in front +of our mules. All the women and some of the men +in the village remonstrated and made a great noise, +chattering and yelling to the top of their voices; +when I ran in among them and pushed them right +and left. This effectually stopped the noise, and we +continued our journey in peace, while K. was much +amused at my proceedings. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span></p> + +<p>We passed by Aila Mareb, a village on the side of +the hill. This is the last village before entering the +desert, as the Abyssinians call all wild jungle; that +is to say, parts of the country that are not inhabited. +On the right of the path we were travelling along +rose a large hill, with a table-land at the top. The +peculiar shape of it struck me very much; as another +ridge rose on the table-land, it looked in the distance +like a vast breastwork. This hill overlooks a +large jungled plain through which the Mareb runs—celebrated +at one time as the abode of a noted +"shifter," or robber, who defied the king's troops for +some time and used to ravage the villages lying near +the plain. He was caught at last; and the king said +he would not kill him, as it was a pity to send him +out of the world without giving him time to repent. +So his eyes were put out with a hot iron, and he was +allowed to live among his family and friends. This +is a good instance of Abyssinian subtlety and cruelty.</p> + +<p>Our road now lay through thick jungle, and in some +parts high grass. The hills soon ceased, and we found +ourselves in the valley of the Mareb. All of a sudden, +on emerging from the thick jungle, we came on a +fallow field; the crop had been reaped, and was +stacked close by. The ballagas living near the valley +of the Mareb very often sow crops after the rains, as +the soil by the side of the river is very fertile indeed. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> +This crop is watched by small boys of the village, +to protect it from birds, deer, elephants, etc., but in +many cases the best part of it is destroyed. The +crop, or rather crops—for sometimes they reap two or +three—are so heavy that it does not greatly matter if +a little is eaten. The dry bed of the Mareb was at +the bottom of this field, and thick, impenetrable jungle +rose up on all sides, so we agreed to camp in the +open field by the bank of the river.</p> + +<p>I said the river was dry; by this I mean that the +water runs under the sand, and is got at by making +a hole, when it gradually filters through. The water +is excellent for drinking, and deliciously cool. I +ordered my servants to make a large hole in the +sand, and the water here I arranged should be +kept apart for our own drinking; no one was +either to wash in it or foul it in any way. It is +a very good plan when near a stream to make your +servants do all their washing, etc., down the stream, +so as to keep the water as pure as possible for your +own drinking. The time we spent on the Mareb I +shall always look back to with great pleasure. Our +little camp was very conveniently fixed. The jungle +here teemed with all sorts of most beautiful birds, +including partridges and guinea-fowl in abundance. +The little sandgrouse used to come in flocks every +evening to drink from the scattered pools along the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> +river-bed. The jungle also gave us most delicious +wild tomatos, and as it was the dry season it had +up to this time been almost impossible to procure any +green vegetables, except the <i>gram</i> before mentioned. +These tomatos were very acceptable, they were the +sweetest I ever ate, far better in flavour than our +own cultivated ones; we used to make excellent +salads with them, and also get them stewed. I +had felt the want of green vegetables very much, +and I am persuaded that, in a hot country, eating +largely of provisions preserved in tins is not at all +good.</p> + +<p>The ballaga to whom the field belonged in which +we were camped said a lion used frequently to come +and bask in the sun and look at him while he was at +his work, not taking the smallest notice. There must +have been some of these animals about, as we used to +see fresh tracks almost every day; but, alas! not one +single one did we catch sight of the whole time; and +as all sportsmen know who have been in Africa, there +is no animal so hard to discover or get near when +seen. The lion is scarcely the noble beast which is +seen represented in pictures, or read of in nursery +books and fables; on the contrary, he feeds on +carrion when he can get it, and sneaks away at the +approach of man. The tiger in India is a much finer +animal. In the evening I went a few hundred yards +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> +out of camp down the river, and shot an old cock +guinea-fowl and a brace of small sandgrouse. These +latter were most lovely little birds, and Fisk preserved +one for H.'s collection.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i110" id="i110"></a> +<img src="images/i_110.jpg" width="550" height="342" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">NARROW ESCAPE OF GOUBASEE.<br /> +<span class="s08"><i>To face page 91.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p><i>Jan. 22.</i>—I find, according to my journal, that the +events of this day were most unlucky. I went up the +river with Goubasee and the elephant-hunter that Brou +had with him as a sort of servant. I only saw a deer +cross the dry bed of the river in front of me, but out +of shot. I had gone up some little way, and was +resting, sitting on some large granite rocks. The force +of the water during the rains must be tremendous, as +these rocks were scooped and hollowed out as if +by the hand of man. A large pool of water was just +below me; the hot weather had not yet dried it up, +and the basin of rock prevented it filtering away +through the sand. My rifle lay close by me, and +wishing to put it at half-cock, I touched the trigger +without taking it up. By mistake I fingered the +wrong one: it went off, and as nearly as possible shot +Goubasee, who was reclining close beside me. He took +it very well, and the elephant-hunter only laughed, +and made a movement as if digging in the sand with +his stick; meaning, if the ball had hit him it would +have been all up with poor Goubasee, and we should +have had to bury him. I got up very much disgusted +with myself, and walked over the rocks on the way +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> +back to camp, but on the way I slipped and fell, +denting both the barrels of my little 16-bore. "It +seldom rains but it pours:" these two accidents occurred +in the space of about five minutes. The gun was +rendered quite useless by this accident; so I returned +home dejected, and on the way I amused myself by +throwing a spear at a mark on a tree. The two +Abyssinians who were with me made very good +practice. It is extraordinary how hard it is to make +sure of hitting anything with this weapon, though +the mode of throwing it is simple enough. The +spear is held in the right hand, not over the head, but +about in a line with the shoulder; lightly balancing +it one takes three steps, starting with the left foot, +and delivers the spear as the right foot comes to the +ground. King Theodore was a celebrated spear +thrower; it is said he could make sure of a man at +thirty yards or more. On my way home I was +puzzling in my mind how to get the dented barrels of +my little gun straight again. I had some hardened +bullets with me for my rifle, which fitted this gun +exactly, and I thought if one of these bullets was +introduced into the barrel and gently and gradually +tapped with one of our wooden tent-mallets it might +straighten it. When I got to camp I told Fisk +what I thought of it; he said he would try, and +being a very handy fellow and understanding guns +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> +well, the experiment proved a complete success, and +the gun shot just as well as it did before. Of course +the dents were not completely obliterated, but sufficiently +for all practical purposes. I must not forget +to say the barrels had been injured about half-way +down from the muzzle. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +A WART-HOG—"BRUNDO" BUTCHERING—AN "ETON BLUE" BIRD—BABOONS—DESERTED +VILLAGE—ROUGH WALKING—THE ABYSSINIAN +ADAM AND EVE—JEALOUSY—THE PRIESTS—SAVAGE CUSTOMS—TAMARISK +COVER—NATIVE SPORTSMEN—DANCING AND +SINGING—WANT OF A DOG—NEWS OF A LION—RED POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS +AND THEIR EFFECT—"BORROWED PLUMES"—THE +JUNGLE ON FIRE—WE STEER WEST—"BLACKMAIL"—SUMMARY +JUSTICE. +</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 23.</i>—I started very early this morning, +before sunrise—or with the "morning star," as the +Abyssinians say—and went down the river to see +what sport I could find. It was so cold that I rode +out of camp on my mule, wrapped up in an Ulster. +Directly the sun rose it got warm, but up to that +time the air was very piercing. After going down the +river some little way we came to a large field of +Dargousa corn: here I stopped, and leaving my +mule in care of one of the servants, determined to +walk over some of the hills on the right bank of the +river and see what I could find. Goubasee, my gun-bearer, +was very anxious to stop and warm himself at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> +a fire which two of the ballagas had made in a sort of +hut, which was built to live in during the time that +the corn was ripening and that they were thrashing it +out. These natives slept in the hut, and guarded the +corn at night from the inroads of wild beasts. I told +Goubasee to come on and not lag behind—as after +it gets hot in this country one never sees any +game, for all retire to the thick jungle. I walked +up a steep hill, and soon came, at the top, on a +broad level plateau. Part of this plateau was cultivated; +the rest of it was short, dry grass, which +reached up to the knees. It looked a very likely +place for game, especially pigs or deer. I made +Goubasee and another man I had with me spread out +and walk through the grass, in the hopes of "putting +up" something; but we saw nothing there. Where +the grass ceased there was a rocky, stony piece of +ground, with short, stunted trees growing on it. All +of a sudden, by the side of one of these little trees, I +saw a fine old boar standing. He looked steadily at +me, and I looked at him—we were both very much +taken by surprise, as I almost came on the top of +him. The colour of this animal is so much like the +dried-up ground that it is very hard at first to discern. +H. had lent me his Express this morning, so I +fired and hit him behind the shoulder. He galloped +off, and was circling round towards me, when I gave +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> +him the left barrel, which caught him just behind the +ear; he rolled over like a rabbit, and lay with his +legs kicking in the air. He turned out to be a wart-hog. +We skinned him and took off his head, which I +have kept. Goubasee, while the operation of skinning +was going on, cut off large lumps of the quivering +flesh and stuffed them into his mouth; he seemed +to enjoy it very much. Nearly all Abyssinians eat +<i>brundo</i>, which is their name for raw meat, and in +consequence of this they are all affected with <i>tænia</i>, or +tapeworm, and have periodically (I believe once a +month) to take a very strong purgative medicine, +which they call <i>coussou</i>. This destroys the worm for +a time, but it always reappears again. By reason of +this, nearly all Abyssinian men are very hollow-cheeked, +and some of them exceedingly thin; but, +notwithstanding this, their powers of marching long +distances over their hills with very little food is +something marvellous.</p> + +<p>When we had skinned the wart-hog and taken +away what we wanted for food, we hung up the +carcase in a tree. Before going any farther I wish to +recommend all sportsmen who go out to wild countries +to learn a little butchering before leaving home; it is +most useful not only to know how to cut up a beast, +but also to know the different parts of the animal, +their names, and what to reject and what to keep for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> +food, and how to remove the parts from the carcase. +Almost any afternoon at the slaughtering-houses of +the live meat market near the Great Northern Railway, +London, the butchers may be seen killing, +skinning, and dressing for the dead meat market, +both mutton and beef, and for a small gratuity they +are very ready to give any information.</p> + +<p>I sent home one of the servants with the skin and +the head, and went on to look for more game with +Goubasee. I saw in the distance a rather curiously-forked +stick, as I thought; it was just over the top of +the grass. I never suspected for an instant that this +was an animal, so did not attempt to stalk in any +way, but walked straight on. To my great surprise, +however, I saw a beautiful, light red-coloured deer +lying just at the edge of the dry grass near an open +space. Of course when the animal saw me it jumped +up and bounded away at full speed; I took a snap +shot—and missed. This is a good instance of how +difficult it is when one first goes into a strange +country to distinguish game, for it is some little time +before the eye gets accustomed to the strange scenery, +and the ear to the unfamiliar noises and sounds that +are heard in a wild jungle. The forked stick, as +I thought it, was the two little pointed ears of +the deer. I now walked round this small plateau, +and determined to make for my mule and go home +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> +to breakfast, as it was getting hot. H. as well +had been out in the morning, and had seen a +large herd of Hagazin or koodoo, but could not get +near them. There was a very beautiful bird to be +seen in this jungle near the Mareb, in shape like an +English cuckoo, but of a very lovely light blue; as +most of my readers will know the tint of Eton blue, +it was almost exactly that colour. We shot several +specimens, which Fisk preserved. I had seen, the +evening before, a pair of wild geese in a pool down +the river, so I went out to try and get a shot at them. +I told K. that I was going to shoot them both at +one shot if I could; he said, "They are a great +deal too shy, you won't get near them." I went +down the river, when, lo, I saw my two friends +swimming about in a small pool. I fired at them with +my 16-bore No. 1 shot, killing the gander outright. +The goose flapped on a little way, and I thought I +had not got her, when Goubasee, who was with me, +rushed off down the river, having heard a faint cackle +in the distance, and came back with the goose in his +hand. It was very lucky that the bird made any +sound at all, as it was nearly pitch dark. I came back +to camp triumphantly with my two geese, and the +next evening we had them roasted and stuffed with +onions—they were excellent, and were among the +few things in Abyssinia that I had tasted really good. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Jan. 24.</i>—I started very early indeed this morning—in +fact, by moonlight—in order to get on the +ground where I thought I should find game, before the +heat arose. The day before, I had seen a conically-shaped +mountain lying north of where I had been +shooting. Instead of leaving my mule in the cultivated +ground near the river, I turned up a path on +the right bank of the river, and rode some little way +into the hills. I left my mule on a little eminence +just below the edge of the table-land which I had shot +over the day before, and walked on towards the +mountain. I saw nothing but tracks of deer till I got +nearly to the top, and it was a very steep climb +indeed. On a little open space just below the summit +of the mountain I saw some jungle fowl pecking; +they were not in the least like the Indian jungle fowl +but brown-looking birds; in fact, they had the same +colour throughout, and exactly the shape of little +bantam hens. Unluckily, I had not my shot gun with +me, as I would have given much to have shot one of +these little creatures; but they ran away into the +jungle in a long file, and I did not see them again. I +now made for the summit of the mountain. There +was a small, thickly-wooded hollow just below where +I was climbing, and I thought very likely there might +be something lying in it, so I picked up a stone and +rolled it down, when out leaped two of those mouse-brown +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> +deer that I had seen at Sellaadarou; they +rushed away through the jungle, and I could only get +a snap shot at them, but managed to hit one of them. +I then climbed to the top of the mountain, on my +way towards which, I had heard a great number of +baboons chattering among the rocks, but when they +saw me they all scampered away.</p> + +<p>At the top, to my great astonishment, I found a +small level plateau and the ruins of a village; the +circular walls of the huts were still standing, and +broken pottery was lying about in all directions. +This, most likely, was one of the villages that the +robber of the Mareb devastated, of whom I have +spoken before. What struck me most was how and +where the villagers got their water, as the country +round here was particularly dry; they must have +gone to the Mareb for it, which was at some distance. +I searched all about the mountain in hopes +of finding a spring, as I was very thirsty myself, but +there was no such thing to be seen. I was a little +tired with the climbing, so, getting under the shade of +one of the ruined walls, I curled myself up and went +to sleep for nearly an hour, Goubasee squatting close +by, watching me like a dog. When I awoke the +sun was high, so I thought I had better go home to +breakfast, and went down the opposite side of the +mountain to that I had come up. I saw my mule +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> +like a speck in the distance, and made straight across +country for it, much to the chagrin of my gun-bearer, +who wished to go by a path which lay rather out of +the straight line. It was a heavy walk, as the jungle +was very thick; in fact, in one patch of thorns I +found myself completely suspended. My face and +hands were torn, but at length I reached my mule, +feeling very fatigued, as the walk had been a long +one. When back in camp I arranged that K., together +with Cassa, one of our head servants who +had charge of our transport arrangements, should +go on to Adiaboo with our heavy baggage, and +that we should change our camp some little way +down the river in order to shoot over fresh ground. +I went out of camp in the evening, and a little +way down the river I heard a great rush in the +jungle on the bank. My gun-bearer said it was a +lion, when I sat down and waited for some little time, +but I could hear no sound, nor could I see anything, +so I went home to dinner.</p> + +<p>K. and I after dinner, over the camp-fire, were +talking of the Abyssinians and their religion. He +said that their version of the "fall of man" was +rather curious. It was this: Adam and Eve, who +lived in a beautiful garden, were happy and contented, +till one day the serpent came and said to Eve, +"Where is Adam?" She answered, "He is in another +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span> +part of the garden." So the serpent sneeringly said, +"Oh, indeed, do you think so?" Eve rejoined, "For +what reason do you sneer?" The serpent replied, +"You think yourself the only woman in the world?" +and she said, "Yes, and a most beautiful woman." +The serpent then said, "Adam often stays away from +you, does he not, now? I will show you another +woman;" on which he produced a looking-glass. Eve +saw her image reflected in it and immediately became +jealous. The serpent then said, "If you wish to +secure Adam's love for ever and ever, you must eat of +the fruit which I will point out to you." So came +about the fall of man, according to Abyssinians. +This is quite consistent with Abyssinian character +and ideas, as probably no people are more vain +or conceited than they; jealousy in all things is +one of their chief failings. Abyssinians, in their +religion, are great bigots, and the whole country is +very much at the present time under the influence of +the priests. The king himself is very particular about +his religious observances, and priests and monasteries +are very often richly endowed. The Abyssinians' +hatred of the Mussulman is extreme. They have +always looked upon the Egyptians with great abhorrence +as well as terror, for already part of their +country called Bogos has been annexed by them. +They think that the Mussulman will try and overrun +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> +the whole of Abyssinia, and, according to events that +are now taking place, this does not seem at all +improbable.</p> + +<p>An Abyssinian is thought a great deal of if he +goes to Jerusalem, and they always think that the +Turk is going to destroy the holy places and sweep +away the relics that are kept there.</p> + +<p>It may not be known to some of my readers that +the Queen of Sheba is supposed to have ruled over +Abyssinia, and at that time the country was evidently +a great deal more prosperous and civilised +than it is now. Elephants are said to have been used +as beasts of burden; nowadays, the natives have not +the smallest idea of taming this most useful animal. +There exist large ruins of palaces both at Goujam and +at Gindar, which testify to the wealth and magnificence +the country originally boasted of. It seems to +me a great pity that a country which is comparatively +so near Europe, and with a good seaboard, should be +so completely lost to the world. What few Abyssinian +chiefs I saw always impressed upon me that we, the +English, ought to come and live in the country. They +had formed, I am sure, a great opinion of England's +wealth and power from what they saw and also heard +of the Abyssinian expedition. I was told at Massowah +that an enormous quantity of material of different +sorts, that had been left behind after the war, quite +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span> +made the fortune of a tribe that lived on the coast; +for they sold all these materials at Massowah to the +Egyptian government. It forcibly struck me, while +travelling over these fertile lands, what an extensive +field there is for British industry and enterprise. +Abyssinia contains considerable mineral wealth; but +whether it is sufficiently localised to make its working +remunerative remains to be discovered. I tried to +get some information on this point from the French +bishop of Keren, who came down to Massowah with +us, and he told me he thought that minerals were not +to be profitably worked with the present means of +transport. K. often assured me that he had seen +unmistakable evidences of gold. If once there was a +gold rush to this country, it would certainly open it +up in a way; but the experience of other countries +makes one doubt whether such would prove a desirable +commencement to civilisation.</p> + +<p>Very often on riding into the village I was greeted +by the Mussulman salutation of "<i>Salaam</i>," and they +always asked my servants if I was a Mussulman. It +was explained to them I was really a Christian, at +which they were much astonished. All the priests in +Abyssinia that I happened to meet I found to be very +sensible fellows; in fact, they are the only educated +members of the community. They dislike European +missionaries for the reason that the missionaries educate +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> +the people, which education the priests endeavour to +check as much as possible. There is a country much +nearer home than Abyssinia which was, up to a short +time since, much in the same state; in fact, that +expression of "priest-ridden country" may be applied +to Abyssinia with as much force as it used to be +applied to the Sister Isle.</p> + +<p>Before I go farther, I must mention that at this +camp we killed a cow for the benefit of our coolies +and servants, who ate it raw. K. had done this +while we were out of camp, so I did not see the +squabble which ensued. The bits were shared out +equally, but one of the men complained, said his +quantity was short, and he threw it at the man's head +who was dividing the portions. Then a general row +ensued, and they might be seen running about the +camp tearing lumps of raw flesh out of each other's +hands and cramming them into their mouths to get +rid of them as quickly as possible, much in the same +way as a pack of hounds would break up a fox. +When an Abyssinian sees or scents raw flesh he +becomes a perfectly wild savage; and the women eat +<i>brundo</i> as well as the men.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 25.</i>—In the afternoon, H. and I started down +the Mareb, intending to go a short way and then +pitch our camp. We followed the bank of the river, +but it was very deep walking, as the damp sand gave +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> +way under the mules. I very nearly got bogged, only +just slipping off my mule in time, and directly the +weight was off his back he recovered himself. The +banks of the river, on both sides, were fringed with +tamarisk bushes, which form a thick cover, a favourite +one in India for tigers. We fixed our camp at the +place where the Zareena joins the Mareb; at this time +of the year—that is to say, the hot weather—the +Zareena is a beautiful running stream, and the water, +the servants told us, was considered excellent. We +pitched our tent on the shingly bed of the Mareb, and +I amused myself, with the help of my gun-bearers, by +getting firewood for the night, as Fisk and the luggage +had not come up yet. On the way here we passed +some Abyssinians sitting in a small bower, made of +branches, which was constructed over a water pool. +They had come down from the villages to hunt—that +is to say, to squat over the pool watching in turns, +night and day, for any animal that might chance to +come and drink. I do not think they killed much +game, and they seemed to spend most of their time +smoking a pipe, a rude sort of hookah, with a cocoanut +as the receptacle for the water that the smoke +passed through.</p> + +<p>This evening I assembled our servants and coolies +and induced them to give us a dance and song in +their own fashion, I accompanying them on my banjo +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span> +which I had brought with me. The dancing was rather +curious: all stood round in a circle singing a monotonous +chant and clapping their hands; one stood out +in the circle and went through extraordinary contortions, +throwing his body backwards as far as possible +and then twisting quickly round. In one part of the +dance they all squatted down and wriggled their +bodies about, making a sort of hissing noise with their +teeth. I requested Brou to translate the words of the +song, which were, "Plough, ploughman, plough, nor turn +your attention to merchandise;" this meant, of course, +stay at home, till your land, and lead a quiet life; do +not seek other riches in far countries. It was repeated +over and over again, like most Eastern songs; and +they would have gone on all night, I believe, if we +had allowed them.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 26.</i>—I went out in the morning at daybreak +and saw literally nothing but a dik-dik. There +are vast quantities of partridges amongst the tamarisk +bushes, which Fisk shoots for the pot with great +success. I always regret not having brought out a dog +of some sort or other, as dogs are always useful for +retrieving birds. I frequently came across the tracks +of koodoo, but never saw one. H. told me, when +he came back to camp, that he had "rolled over" a +deer, and, on running up to secure him, the animal +staggered away amongst the high grass and jungle and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> +was lost. This was very bad luck, as it was the first +deer he had hit. I went down the river in the evening, +a very beautiful walk; the Mareb wound in some +places among rocks, in others through thick jungle. I +stopped to rest for a short time; a little gazelle ran out +and crossed the river bed a little way off. I shot with +my muzzle-loading rifle, and missed. This was another +chance gone for the Express. I found when I got +back to camp that some natives had been in; in fact, +they were the sportsmen whom we saw in their hut +beside the pool. They told us that a lion, a month ago, +had killed a man and eight cows, but this was not of +much use to us now. Why is it in all sport, whether +hunting, shooting, or fishing, you hear that you ought +to have been there the other day, or else it is too early—you +ought to have come later; the ground is very +hard, or the scent bad; the birds are still wild; or +else, when you go fishing, the water is thick, or the +fish are not on the feed, etc., etc.?</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 27.</i>—I went out this morning with two of the +native hunters who had come into camp the day before. +We wandered over the hills, but I did not succeed in +shooting anything, and only saw two gazelles scouring +away in the distance. On the table-land, where I found +these gazelles, there was a very singular cavity in +the rocks, just on the edge of a cliff; it was almost as +if it had been hollowed out by the hand of man; it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> +was oblong-shaped, and it could easily have held two +or three hundred people. The day was very hot, and +the sun beat down on the dry rocks, so I made the +best of my way down the steep side of the hill into +the bed of the Mareb, which ran underneath. On the +way home I fired at a white eagle with my rifle, and +picked him off the top of the tree he was perched on, +but the bullet had so injured the bird that he was not +worth preserving. This was really a bad morning's +sport. H. had done no better than myself; and it +was a good deal owing to this that we determined to +move off the next day. This afternoon I presented +the hunters, who had been out with me, with three +common cotton pocket-handkerchiefs, of which I had +bought a good many at Bologna, in Italy, on my way +out. They seemed to be delighted with them, and +grinned and laughed, and passed them round for each +other to admire.</p> + +<p>After luncheon, H. and I determined to ride down +the Mareb and explore that line of country. We +had not gone very far before we saw our friends +the hunters sitting round a small pool of water, +then tying the handkerchiefs round their heads and +admiring themselves, using the water as a looking-glass. +They looked very ridiculous, and seemed highly +delighted with their personal appearance, which they +evidently felt was greatly improved by the red cotton +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> +handkerchiefs. We rode a good way down the river, +and the farther we went the fewer the little pools of +water became: at last there was no water to be seen, +the sand had gradually absorbed it; and we should +have to dig four or five feet in order to get water here, +so it would be of very little use to go down into the +jungle by this route. H. and I amused ourselves +by setting fire to the jungle, in hopes of starting +some animal, but we saw nothing and so turned our +mules' heads towards home. It is interesting in +this country to see, while jungle is burning; this it +is always doing during the dry weather—the number +of birds—insect-catchers—hovering over the flames +and catching any flies, beetles, or butterflies, that +happen to be driven out of the grass and bushes by +the smoke and heat.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 28.</i>—To-day we started at 8.30 for Adiaboo. +We went up the bed of the Zareena for a short way +and then turned off sharp to the right; this will be +better understood by my readers when I say that, +after turning to the right, we began travelling very +nearly due west. The road was merely a jungle +path, and the bushes were in some places very thick, +which scratched our knees as we pushed through +them. Sometimes we rode up the dry bed of a +watercourse, at other times we struck right into the +thorny forest of mimosa bushes. At last we came to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> +a more civilised part of the country, and halted in +the bed of a small river called Maitumloo, where +at some deep pools the cattle were being watered by +the boys of the village, who were minding them. +Here we stopped for about half an hour, watering our +mules and resting ourselves; we then made for the +village of Zadawalka. We did not actually go straight +up to the village, but camped in the usual camping-place +for travellers who go by this route, that is to +say, close to the water, of which there was a large +pool here. We pitched our tent on a little ledge just +over the pool, where there was barely room for the +tent and the camp fire. We had got in early this +afternoon, having come along at a pretty good pace; +Petros and Hadji Mahomet had happened to lose +their way in the jungle, and did not come at all that +evening.</p> + +<p>Our coolies that we had brought from Koudoofellassie, +had, as is usual with most blacks when +they travel, brought very little food with them, for +when natives go a journey it is usually a succession +of forced marches, which they manage to do with +wonderfully little nourishment. They were all seated +at the pool, having washed off the dust of the journey, +talking and chattering, when there appeared in +sight some villagers, who Brou, the interpreter, told +me were returning from a funeral feast. Of course +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> +the coolies understood very well the state of affairs. +The natives at feasts in this country not only eat as +much as they can, but also contrive to take away +with them what they cannot manage to cram down +their throats; so here was a prospect of a good meal +for our coolies. A rush was made at a batch of +small boys and men who were returning, their clothes +were almost torn off their backs, and the bread and +"tef" which they had concealed about their persons +were seized and devoured by our hungry men. This +was the first batch of visitors, and our men were in +anticipation of more coming. At last some more +appeared, this time bearing a large earthenware jar, +which was thought to contain beer, but, alas! it +was empty. There were other natives that our +men thought had some bread with them, and they +accordingly hustled them, but found none. During +the struggle, a coolie was pushed backwards into +the muddy pool, and was rather astonished to find +himself seated in the water, much to the amusement +of ourselves and all the servants but himself: +he sneaked back and sat down by the fire to dry +the few rags he had on him as best he could. Three +or four more villagers came by, among them two +young Abyssinians, who said, "You have been robbing +our people—you will see what we will do to you +to-morrow!" I think they were a little the worse +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span> +for the "tej" and beer they had been drinking, as +they boasted and were very impudent. At last they +got a little too "cheeky," saying, "You are a Rass" +(which means a lord, in Abyssinia), "and ought to +know better than let your servants do this." This +rather annoyed me, so I jumped across the stream, +snatched one of the sticks out of their hands, and gave +them two or three cuts across the back, as hard as I +could, and told the interpreter to tell them that was +the way a Rass was accustomed to treat people +who were impudent; so they went away rather +frightened, amid the jeers of the servants and coolies.</p> + +<p>My readers may think this was rather a summary +proceeding, especially as our servants had been +robbing the people of their bread; but it is a thing +always taken for granted, as people are supposed +to be hungry when they are travelling, and those +that were robbed took it as a very good joke, +and laughed and chaffed, especially when they were +searched and found to have no victuals of any +description concealed on their persons. My grey +mule, which K. gave me at Gindar, had a sore back, +and I was afraid he would only just be able to take +me into Adiaboo, where I should have to give him up +and get another. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +A LONG MARCH—A NATIVE GARDEN—COOLIES AND THE WAY TO +TREAT THEM—MARKETS—A BATTLE-FIELD—COOL SHADE—"THE +FIRST POST"—SHIELDS AND SPEARS—JOHN—POTATOES—SILVERSMITHS—A +NEW FRIEND—COOLIE SQUABBLES—AN APPEAL—DONKEY +BUYING—SHOE-MAKING—A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF OUR +ROUTE—SOURCES OF THE TACKAZZEE—MARRIAGE FESTIVITIES—I +TURN SURGEON—A MUSICAL PARTY—MY REPUTATION AS A +DOCTOR. +</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 29.</i>—To-day we made a very long march, in +fact, the longest we had made since we had been in +the country. We started at 7 o'clock in the morning, +leaving the village of Zadawalka on our right, and +we struck across the table-land in front of us, which +was intersected by a large ravine. The scenery on +the table-land was lovely, and the streams became +more frequent. Towards the middle of the day we +reached a very extensive plain; in the distance might +be seen the high-peaked hill which marks Adiaboo. +It is just below this, and in the shade of a large tree, +that the market of Adiaboo is held every Saturday. +The principal village on the plain was one called +Sememmar. We got off our mules and went to forage +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> +among the houses for some honey; and the natives +sold us a large gumbo, or jar, full of honey, for a +dollar. They were very civil, but, as usual, our +servants amused themselves by purloining as many +little things and eatables as they could lay their +hands on. We agreed to camp by a stream which +was a little way on, and where the table-land ended, +called Maihumloo. The descent down into the +little valley, or ravine, was very pretty, and when +we got down to the bottom the country was almost +like a pleasure-ground, rills of trickling water ran +across our path, and various shrubs bearing sweet-smelling +flowers grew in every direction; it only +wanted neat gravel walks to make it the most perfect +of gardens. We fixed our camp by the side of the +stream. Any future traveller would know the spot +very well, as a white-faced rock rises up from the +stream, with bushes growing over it.</p> + +<p>An old lady in the village had asked me if I +should like to buy some Dargousa spirit; I told +her if she liked to bring it down to our camp that I +would purchase it. Accordingly she followed us +down and produced two bottles of this native spirit, +which I thought would be a good thing to give to our +coolies, as they had had an exceedingly long march +and were completely done up, and when we halted +they most of them lay down unable to move. One +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span> +of them was utterly exhausted, and said he was dying. +I imagined it would be a good idea to serve them +all with honey, of which they are very fond, and +accordingly I made them come forward, and gave +them each a large handful of honey. Directly the +dying coolie heard that this honey was being given he +appeared to get wonderfully better, and jumped up +and came for his share. He had given a good deal +of trouble on the march and always lagged behind, +calling on the other coolies to carry his load; so I +said he was not to have any, and I did not give him +any. These natives have to be treated like children +in every respect. I had arrived at the place where +I fixed the camp a little before H., and, hearing +some wild geese cackling up the stream, I took my +gun and went to try to bag one of them for dinner. +I fired at them and missed. Not many seconds after +firing H. appeared from behind some bushes, and +we discovered we had both been stalking the same +geese. It is very lucky I did not pepper him. He +seemed a little annoyed; but this sort of thing very +often occurs when two fellows are shooting together +in a wild country. I went out by myself afterwards +to try and get some partridges, as I heard a few +calling to each other near camp. I managed to kill a +brace, and they proved very acceptable food after our +long and tedious march. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span></p> + +<p>Half-way on our journey here we came to the +market-place of Sememmar; the market is held in a +sort of hollow dell by the side of the path that we +travelled along. It was a very picturesque sight +looking down on the market, the people seated round +the sides of a hill like an amphitheatre. Of course +we got down to inspect the wares offered for sale: +beads, needles, buttons, were among the articles, as +well as antimony for blacking the eyebrows and eyelashes +of Abyssinian ladies. There was also a good +deal of cotton and grain for sale. The only thing I +purchased was a native sword, which cost a dollar, +and which I handed over to Goubasee, my gun-bearer, +to carry for me. This sword was made, like some of +the Indian tulwars, of very soft iron, but sharpened +like a razor. Its shape was well adapted for cutting, +slightly curved, and the back of the broad blade was +heavy and thick. The worst part of an Abyssinian +sword is its handle, which is made of wood, with no +guard whatsoever. Generally, when a native goes into +battle, he ties the handle of his sword round his wrist +with a piece of rag or handkerchief. There is also +another description of sword which they carry. This +is a much lighter one, and very much curved, even +more so than a Turkish scimitar. I had no opportunity +of seeing a native use the sword. What they +seemed to excel in most was throwing the spear. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Jan. 30.</i>—This morning we did not start till much +later, as the whole of the party were rather knocked +up by the march of the day before. The country was +very lovely that we travelled through. The path rose +until we found ourselves on a very extensive plain: as +we travelled over it, one of my gun-bearers pointed +out a place, south of the route we pursued, where the +king of Abyssinia had had a great battle with the +Gallas, on which occasion three hundred of the Galla +horsemen rode over a sheer precipice, nearly every one +of them being killed. I trotted on across the plain +towards Adiaboo, and the large peaked hill appeared +nearer and nearer. I forgot to say that, before we +started this morning, I managed to bag one of the wild +geese which we had seen, and stalked unsuccessfully, +the night before. These birds are most excellent +eating, and they and the partridges are nearly the best +food in the shape of game that is found in Abyssinia, +but the guinea-fowl are nearly always tough.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i139" id="i139"></a> +<img src="images/i_139.jpg" width="550" height="336" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">OUR CAMP AT MASSOWAH.<br /> +<span class="s08"><i>To face page 118.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p>It was market-day at Adiaboo, a much larger affair +than at Sememmar the day before, and a considerable +gathering of people were here, all chattering and +making a great noise, it being the busiest time. I +asked some of the bystanders where K. was, and +where our camp was pitched. They pointed a little +farther on, and I soon saw K.'s tent and a "das" built +close by. A das is a sort of bower made of boughs +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span> +which Abyssinian servants in a very short time put +up. It is made of four tall forked poles; over these +are laid boughs which are again interlaced with other +boughs. It makes a delightfully cool shade for the +middle of the day, and we always used to live in +one when we were in camp during the day, but of +course we slept in our tent at night. A "das" was +very necessary here, as there was no shade to be found +for some distance round. K. was very pleased to see +us. He had come a shorter route, and his party had +almost lost their way and been very hard pressed for +water. He said he had been very ill on the journey, +and scarcely able to ride his mule. The black sheep +that, my readers will remember, we had made a pet +of was completely worn out, and was carried, the +greater part of the journey, by one of the servants.</p> + +<p>K. had told me that Rass Barea, the chief of +Tigré, had written to the chief of Adiaboo to say that +hunters were to be placed at our disposal, and that +men were to accompany us down into the country +where elephants and other large game were to be +found. Adik, the chief of Adiaboo, was in camp ready +to pay his compliments and to ask us what we wanted. +He and his followers all sat on the ground a short +way off, with their shamas thrown across their shoulders +and covering their mouths; this is always considered, +in Abyssinia, a most dignified position. Here we found +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> +letters from home waiting for us, which of course we +were very pleased to get. Any scrap of news from +his own country and friends, to a traveller quite out +of the march of civilisation, is a great luxury. H. +had not come in when I arrived, as I had gone on +rather fast in front of him: there were also letters for +him, so I took them and walked a little way out of the +camp to meet him with them, and never saw anybody +so delighted; in fact, we were both in the best +of spirits. After I had read the letters, I asked K. +to come round the market of Adiaboo with me to see +the people, and also to look if there was anything +worth buying.</p> + +<p>The large tree, mentioned before, was the centre of +attraction, and those who brought horses with them +had them tied up under the shade of the tree. The +tree was hung all round with shields, some for sale +and others belonging to the owners of the horses; as +every Abyssinian, whenever he goes even the shortest +way from home, always takes with him his shield and +his spear—just in the same way as an Irishman carries +his stick. I bought two shields for five dollars; one I +gave to Goubasee, my gun-bearer, and the other to +Guyndem, my second gun-bearer: they both seemed +mightily pleased and proud, and said they would take +the greatest care of them. The shields were made of +the skin of a species of large deer; they were thick +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> +and tough. The old merchant from whom I bought +them was a very communicative person; he had a +large silver ring on his finger which I admired; he +very kindly took it off, and said he would give it to +me. I, of course, said no; but, as he still pressed, I +said, well, I would pay him a little more for the shields—which +arrangement he seemed to agree to. The rest +of the day we spent in reading our letters and discussing +the contents of all of them, and also in writing +others in return, as there would be no chance of +sending messengers to the post after we left Adiaboo.</p> + +<p>A man named John—at least that was the name he +went by—had come into our camp from Adowa; he +was said to be the son of an Englishman who had been +in the country some time before. He stood about six +feet two, and would have been rather good-looking +but that he was marked with small-pox. He brought +a very welcome present to us, and that was some potatoes. +These vegetables are only grown near Adowa, +as it is only within a few years that they have been +introduced into the country, to which they were +brought by a Frenchman, whose name, we hope, will +be as immortal as that of Sir Walter Raleigh. The +potatoes were very small, in fact, wretched-looking +things, but were excellent eating; and we were very +glad to get them, as we had been excessively hard up +for vegetables; in fact, we had had scarcely any since +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span> +leaving Gindar. John said he would go down into +the jungle with us. The only words of English he +knew were, "How do you do?" and "Good morning," +which he uttered whenever one addressed him. His +trade was that of a silversmith, in Adowa, which I am +told is a very lucrative one, as dollars are given to +make into silver ornaments, such as the decorations +of a shield, etc., and then as the dollars, which are +already of rather base metal, are mixed with a good +amount of tin, by the time the ornaments are made +there is not much original metal left in them. Mansfield +Parkyns, in his very entertaining book on Abyssinia, +gives an account of the silversmiths at Adowa. +One of the young chiefs at Adiaboo, a relation of Adik +the old chief, also said he would go down into the +jungle with us and help us to hunt. This young man +was about eighteen or nineteen, and was accompanied +by a sort of bear-leader, a much older Abyssinian, +who, in fact, had been his tutor all his life—a man +named Barrakee. This old fellow was chief of a small +village on the frontiers of Abyssinia, and close to +the Baria tribe. Some part of the Baria country +is supposed to belong to Abyssinia; and Barrakee +told us that he actually received tribute of wild +honey and other small things from the Baria. This +man played a very important part during the rest of +our journey; and, when the young chief left us while +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> +we were on the Tackazzee, he chose to stay behind +to help in the hunting and to guide us through this +part of the country, which he knew very well.</p> + +<p><i>Jan. 31.</i>—To-day we killed a young cow in camp, +and also paid our coolies who had come from Koudoofellassie. +The coolies, after they had been paid, could +not agree upon the division of some extra money +that had been given them—in fact, the man who gave +the most trouble about it was my old friend who had +shammed ill while travelling up to our last camp. +They all came to me to settle the dispute; and, after +one party had arranged themselves on one side, and +the other party on the other—the latter consisting of +only one—I heard the cause of dispute. It was very +clear that the coolie who had shammed ill wanted to +get the best of his friends; so, as most of the rest were +against him, I said, "Two heads are better than one—and +you must give up your claim." The men in +whose favour the decision had been given went away +shouting, laughing, and dancing about; the beaten +party retired rather crestfallen. I asked if any of +them would volunteer to come down into the jungle +with us. There was one young fellow among them +who had always been first on the march, and when in +camp always singing and laughing. I particularly +wanted to get him as a servant; but he said he had +a wife and family and could not manage to come. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> +After a deal of persuasion I got one of them to stay, +a man named Philookus. I think most of them +thought that they had had enough of marching, and, +if the marches in future were to be anything like the +two former ones, they were quite right in turning back.</p> + +<p>It is a great mistake, during travelling in rough +countries, to force your marches; it not only tires +yourself and harasses your coolies, but also wears out +your beasts of burden, a most important consideration. +The Italian proverb, <i>Che va piano va sano</i>, is +daily exemplified when you are away from civilisation +and railways. The best method is to start early in +the morning, make a short march, and then rest +during the heat of the day. After everybody and all +the beasts are well rested start again, and get into +camp in good time before the sun goes down, so as to +get everything comfortable and snug for the night. +By the bye, one is very much struck, on first arriving +in the East, by the astonishment with which the +natives receive an Englishman's protestations that he +is in a hurry—that he must go on at once. I believe +Arabs have a saying, in the spirit of which they certainly +act, that "haste is devilish."</p> + +<p>A number of little sand-grouse, early in the morning, +had come circling round the tent and settling on some +ploughed ground close to us; I went out and killed a +brace and a half. These little birds are very good +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span> +eating, one part of their flesh being white and +the other brown. We agreed to-day that here at +Adiaboo we should buy donkeys to carry our things +down to the Tackazzee, so we told the chief to get +us as many as he could. He said that to-morrow +he would tell the people round to bring in what +donkeys they had for sale. I went out in the evening +into the marshy ground which lay below our camp, to +try to get some snipe; I only saw one, but he was too +far off for a shot. We had a very good dinner to-night, +for we had killed fresh meat, which we were +very glad to get, as the two days that we had been +travelling we had had very little with us, although +K. had made every preparation for us, and boiled +down some excellent jelly, which he had corked up +in a few empty gin-bottles and carefully placed in +H.'s tin-case among his clothes; but, whether it +was the heat or the shaking that the tin-case got on +the journey I do not know: when we opened it, in +order to take some jelly for soup, we found that the +corks had flown out of the bottles, and a sort of +mayonnaise had been made of H.'s socks, boots, and +trousers. Such are the pleasures of rough travelling!</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 1.</i>—To-day we began buying donkeys, and a +more disagreeable task I had never had to do; such +haggling and bargaining as had to be undergone was +enough to drive one mad. They brought up the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> +donkeys sometimes singly and sometimes in pairs; +we had on an average to pay six dollars a-piece for +them, which was a great deal too much. This included +the pads on which the package was strapped, +and also the "mechanias," or leather thongs which +strap the baggage on. The only thing to be assured of +in buying donkeys is that they are not suffering from +recent sores on their backs; and a very good way of +testing their strength is to put both hands in the +small of their back and to press down with all your +weight: a good donkey's back will yield very little, +but a bad one cannot bear it at all. Cassa, the man +who had charge of our transport arrangements, helped +me greatly in buying the donkeys. The very minute +I bought one and paid for it I marked it by clipping +a square patch on its rump with a pair of nail scissors: +this was quite enough for all present purposes. The +great difficulty was to make the natives bring the +pads and straps, as without them of course the +donkeys were perfectly useless. We here employed +some servants in making sandals for themselves out +of cow-skin that I had bought at Deevaroua; in fact, +most of them asked me to allow them to make some, +as the paths through the jungle are very thorny and +stony, and not like travelling through the cultivated +fields of Tigré. Plowden Gubrihote, H.'s gun-bearer, +was shoe—or rather sandal—maker to the rest; he had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span> +been, when a little boy, servant to Consul Plowden, who +was murdered in South Abyssinia, and he was a +capital servant, but rather cowardly.</p> + +<p>In the evening Barrakee, the young chief's tutor, +proposed that we should go up to the top of a +high-peaked hill close by, and see the country we +were approaching. We rode up some distance, and at +last had to get off our mules as the way became very +steep. Certainly a more glorious view I never saw. +To the north-west we could see the plains through +which the Mareb runs, and to the south-west were the +mountains among whose gorges that splendid river +the Tackazzee flows; beyond the Tackazzee to the +west, in fact in front of us, might be seen two +mountains, one of which is of a very peculiar shape—these +mark the province of Walkait. On the +top of one of these mountains is a fort or stronghold +which cannot be reached except by ropes—no human +being can climb up to it. Due south of where we +were standing lay crowded together that mass of +mountains called the Siemien range, the tops of +which, the natives informed us, were covered with +snow the whole year round. This I cannot vouch for, +as I certainly did not see any at that time; and I +almost think, if there had been snow, it would have +caught the rays of the setting sun, and it could have +been seen quite distinctly. The Tackazzee rises in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span> +the Siemien from springs; at least, this I think and +believe is the case, on the authority of an old servant +we had with us, called Hadji Mahomet, who came +from that part of the world. As we looked below us +we could see the inmates of some huts that were +clustered round the mountain engaged in celebrating +a marriage. All the company were assembled in a +large "das," or leafy bower, drinking and dancing, +and every now and then a shot would be fired off in +the air in celebration of the auspicious event. As I +looked towards the distant view which lay before us I +little thought that on my return journey I should be +as anxious to get home as I was then to explore those +regions. We waited till the sun set behind the mountains +of Walkait, and then came down the hill and +made for camp.</p> + +<p>H. and I very much wished, before leaving the +country, to try and get some black leopard skin, and +some of the silver-mounted shields which are made at +Adowa, and which are carried by the great chiefs +of the country. K. said that if we wrote out an +order and sent it to Adowa it would be attended to. +I wrote out a couple of orders, one for the black +leopard skins and the other for the shields, and we +both signed them and got John to transcribe them +into Amharic. While I was writing them he remarked +that English writing was very quick and very +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> +different from writing Amharic, in which every letter +has to be formed separately, in the same way as when +we "print" with a pen in English.</p> + +<p>Whenever we were in camp for two or three days in +one place it was invariably the custom of the natives +to bring their sick to be healed by the white men, or +else to beg for medicines. They even on one occasion +brought a cripple, carried in a sort of frame: I +suppose they expected me to perform a miracle. On +the present occasion a man came into camp with +a large sore, about the size of the palm of one's +hand, on his shin; he had evidently had it for some +time, and the wound was covered with cow-dung, for +what reason I do not know. I told him to go away +and wash his leg and come back to me with it clean. +I then consulted with Brou what was best to be done +in the case. I had no caustic with me, so I determined +to cauterize it with boiling grease. We had +saved some fat from the cow we had killed; I took a +portion of this, put it into a pan on the fire to boil, and +I informed the man what I was going to do, and that +it would hurt him a great deal, but that if he liked to +let it be done he might. He said, "Do what you like; +I do not care." The grease was very soon melted +and bubbling; I took it off the fire and was going to +apply it, when the servants, who were looking on with +interest, thought it was too hot, and that I should +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> +hurt the man too much, so I let it get cold a little +and poured it on to his leg. He did not seem to feel +it, nor did he wince at all; so I said that would not do, +and that next time I should give it him boiling hot. +I put the pan on the fire again, and when next I +poured the grease on, it fizzed and crackled in the +same way that bacon does; but the most curious +part of the operation was that the man, who a person +would have supposed would have almost fainted +with pain, only winced, much in the same way as +people may be seen to do when they have had a +tooth drawn.</p> + +<p>It is difficult to explain this; but it is the case, +that all the black races will endure many surgical +operations of the roughest sort, but directly strong +medicine is given them it seems to kill them at once. +I made the man pour a little milk over the wound, +gave him five rhubarb pills to take, and told him to +go and lie down in the shade. I did not hear afterwards +that he had died, so I think he must have recovered. +I may as well tell the reader that I had a +most excellent medicine-chest with me, and was very +well provided with almost everything that was necessary. +These are the different descriptions of drugs +the chest contained:—A good quantity of quinine in +two-grain pills, rhubarb pills, chlorodyne, a sedative +solution of opium for diarrhœa, Warburg's fever tincture, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span> +spermaceti ointment, lint bandages, scissors, +needles and silk for sewing up cuts, &c. But, notwithstanding +all this provision of remedies I managed +to get most terribly ill; indeed one might have a whole +chemist's shop in one's possession, but, without proper +food and comforts, all would be of little use.</p> + +<p>Barrakee, who I believe was somewhat of a musician, +was very anxious to hear me play on the +banjo I had with me, so I got it and began playing: +he and the young chief listened for some time, and +then remarked that it was very like Shangalla music. +The Shangalla, or Baria, are the nearest tribe of +negroes to Abyssinia. Barrakee then sent for a sort +of Abyssinian guitar, on which he commenced making +a monotonous noise, and thus ended this rather +eventful day.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 2.</i>—All to-day I was engaged in quarrelling +over the prices of different donkeys which were brought +in. In the morning H. successfully stalked a flock of +pigeons that had settled on the ploughed ground close +by, and managed to bag five of them with two barrels. +All game is very acceptable, as it always makes an +addition and variation to what provisions are in +hand. We calculated that we should have to buy +twenty donkeys; we had very nearly succeeded in +getting that number, but two more were wanted to +complete the set, and these could not be got either +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> +for love or money. At last a priest appeared who +was with great difficulty persuaded to lend us his two +donkeys until we could manage to buy from the +neighbouring villages two for ourselves.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I thought I would show the young +chief the use of the sword which I had bought in the +market at Semmemar, and so, asking him to let me +look at his own, I showed him the common one I had +purchased, at which he seemed rather to sneer. We +had got the best part of a goat in camp, and I hung +up the hind quarters, with part of the back attached, +on to a rope stretched between the two "dasses" +which had been built for us. The sword was very +sharp, and I managed to cut this piece of the carcass +right in half. I then asked him if he would do the +same, but he said he could not. I rather suspect he +would not, as he was very proud of his sword, and +probably thought that cutting a goat in half would +not be a deed worthy of such a weapon. I then cut +off another piece for his edification, and also to try to +induce him to show off, which, however, he refused to +do, and eventually retired to his followers and Barrakee, +no doubt to talk over what the Feringee had +done, and wonder why he had done it, and what was +the use of the feat.</p> + +<p>He came to me again in the evening—this was +another instance of native imagination of the power +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span> +of the white men to heal and cure—and informed me, +in a mysterious tone, that his mother had been mad +for some years, and he wanted some medicine to +cure her. I with great difficulty explained to him, +through the interpreter, that it was impossible for us +to cure madness, and that in our country we had +asylums, or houses for mad people, set apart. I said +that anything I could do to alleviate suffering I +should be most happy to attempt. He seemed a +nice young fellow, for in the evening he brought us +some thick cakes made of maize, which he said his +mother had sent us. These were very good and +excellent eating, as we had been living on "damper" +and Peek and Frean's biscuits, which are very dry. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +DONKEY ROBBERIES—REPRISALS—A FRIEND IN NEED—POSTMEN—APOLOGIES—A +THIEF SURPRISED—IN SEARCH OF A MILLER—THE +WAY TO GET WATER—A SWIM—ARRIVAL OF MY RIFLE—CUSTOM-HOUSE—ELEPHANT-HUNTING—HINTS +ON COSTUME—FIRESIDE +TALES—HOW TO PRODUCE FIRE—AN EPICURE—HARTEBEEST AND +GIRAFFES—JUNGLE FIRES. +</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 3.</i>—I find I began my rough journal to-day +with these words: "At last we leave this beastly +place, where all has been quarrelling and bargaining." +I certainly was heartily sick of it, and glad to get +away, and so I think were most of us. To make +matters worse, before we started, the servants came +and told us that four of our donkeys were missing, +two that the priest had lent us and two that we had +bought. At this we were furious. H. and I both +agreed that we would not stand this sort of nonsense, +and we went to K. and told him that we thought it +was disgraceful conduct on the part of the chief, and +vowed vengeance on the old sinner. K. tried to +pacify us, and said the donkeys would turn up in +time. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span></p> + +<p>Certainly, to say the least of it, it was very annoying, +especially on the point of departure. We called +our servants together and went up to the ballaga's +house where the donkeys had been put for the night. +The young chief evidently thought we had hostile +intentions, as his followers might be seen running in +front of him taking the sheaths off the points of their +long spears. When we got to the house we took up +our position just outside the low wall which surrounded +it.</p> + +<p>The young chief was close to a house not many +yards off. I sent word to say that, if the donkeys +were not immediately forthcoming, we should burn +down the man's house and take what goods and +chattels he had there. I went in and took a large +jar of honey and an enormous pumpkin as a sort of +security till the donkeys came. At length the two +donkeys we had bought turned up. We then demanded +the other two which the priest had lent us. +The Abyssinians said, "They are not paid for;" to +which we replied that he would not sell them to us, +but that he promised to lend them, and that, if they +would not give them up, we should do what we had +threatened.</p> + +<p>Before going on I may say that we had letters +to send to the post, and it was important they +should start that day, so as to catch the steamer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> +which runs every three weeks. As we were now at +loggerheads with the chief, it would have been difficult +to get him to give us a messenger for so long a +journey; but Brou helped me out of this difficulty. +He had a friend among some Mahomedans who lived +not far off, and he told me that if I gave him the +letters they would be given to the head-man of the +Mahomedan village, and that he would insure their +being sent to the coast. Brou made all the arrangements, +and I did not, as usual, see the messenger +myself and make him swear that he would carry the +letters safely. It eventually transpired that they +reached their destination all right; and in fact we +found, all through our journey, that the Mahomedans +were a great deal easier to deal with in business, +bargaining, and arrangements, than the Abyssinians.</p> + +<p>I went down into our camp to get the letters and +send them off by Brou, and when I came back I +found K. and H. were rather bored with sitting +there and waiting. K. had been inclined to take the +Abyssinians' part; he said it was one of the usual +events of travelling in such a country, and we should +not make a great fuss; this annoyed us still more. +At last the donkeys were brought and all was +made right. I returned the jar of honey that I had +taken from the house, and I was going to return +the pumpkin, but K. said, "I think we had better +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> +keep this," a remark that amused us very much, as +he had previously been all for the Abyssinians, and +now he was quite ready to take the native's pumpkin. +These pumpkins make a very good dish, boiled in +water with a little sugar. It is wonderful on occasions +of this sort how "'cute" one gets at foraging for food. +To-day was the only time, during our whole journey, +that I saw a snake. I just caught a glimpse of the +reptile as he wriggled away among some corn sheaves; +he was yellow, and almost of the colour of the corn.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the "row" about the donkeys, we +could not start until next day. The old chief, Adik, +came to say good-bye to us. He had never, all through +the time of our stay at Adiaboo, been half so civil as +the younger native, and the servants felt unanimously +that it was owing to him that the donkeys had been +taken; so I intimated that I would not say good-bye +or take any notice of him unless he apologised for all +the trouble he had given us. I had put it very strongly +to his relative, the young man, and told him, in so +many words, I did not think he had behaved as an +Abyssinian chief ought to behave to Englishmen, +when they came to pay a visit to his country. He said +at first that he would not apologise, but at length, +towards the evening, he came up and said he was +very sorry for what had happened, and he hoped +we should have a pleasant journey and lots of sport. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Feb. 4.</i>—This morning we really did make a +start, although we had great difficulty in getting +away, as we had fresh servants to look after the +donkeys, the new men did not know the nature +of the packages, and every donkey-load had to be +made out separately by Cassa. We did not go very +far this march, but camped near a little village called +Adikai. The people were very civil, and directly +the young chief, who was with us, told them to put up +a "das," they did so at once. The only little event +which rather disturbed the harmony of the scene was +one of the natives attempting to snatch away one of +our mechanias. I happened to see this, and, running +up to him, gave him a push that sent him clean head +over heels, and I told him to let our things alone; +the people who were looking on all said that it +served him perfectly right.</p> + +<p>There was a wedding going on at this village—in +fact, I believe this was the time of year during which +most of the weddings in Abyssinia take place—and +the arkees, or groomsmen, who during the week the +wedding is held go about the villages stealing what they +can lay hands on in order to give to the bridegroom, +came and danced before us. It was the same sort of +dance that our coolies had entertained us with on the +Mareb: one stepped forward and went through +various contortions, and then, at one part of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span> +dance, they all sat down and clapped their hands, +making a hissing noise. The young chief said if we +would give them a dollar they would be very pleased; +so we presented them with one, and they went away +delighted. We had bought a quantity of corn at +Adiaboo for food for our servants in the jungle, but +we could not manage to get it ground at Adiaboo; +the young chief, however, said we should be able to do +so in the villages as we went on. He came to us in +the middle of the day and said, "I cannot make the +ballagas grind your corn; you must go through the +villages and make them give you an equal weight of +flour in exchange for your corn." The reason why +he could not make the ballagas of the nearest village +grind the corn was that the village belonged to the +Monastery of Debra Bizen, which my readers will +remember was situated on a high mountain that +overlooked the little valley of Gindar. The priest +of the village said that the young chief had no power +over these people, who paid tribute to the monastery. +We went into the village and said that we must have +some flour, and that we had brought corn to exchange +for it. We sent our servants round to the different +houses to fetch the flour, while a priest, a nice-looking +old fellow in a green turban, looked on to see that +we did not take more than was right. From one of +the little hamlets, to which I went to look for some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> +flour, all the inhabitants ran away, and clustered on a +hill close by, looking at Brou and myself, who had +walked up to the houses. We ascertained the folks +had just been at their meals, and Brou, who declared +that he had eaten no breakfast that morning, sat down +and demolished the remaining victuals which he found +in the hut. We took what flour we wanted and left +corn in exchange. One of the servants who accompanied +me to carry the corn, wanted as usual to steal +something, but I said I would not allow that, and he +must leave the things just as he found them.</p> + +<p>As we came back with the flour that we had exchanged +for corn we met the arkees, and Brou said to +them, "Do not go up to those houses and steal the +things while the people are away, and then say that +we did it!" This was quite right, as these gentlemen +were hanging about, and they would most likely have +made a clean sweep of everything they had found, and +then have said that the Feringee had taken them. +Let me recommend to travellers, when camping near +a native village, to watch for a long string of women, +who generally bring up the water from the nearest +stream. Usually your servants have plenty to do +without going to fetch water: the best way is to take +the water from the women, empty it into your own +vessels, and let them go back and get more for +themselves. This we did with great success at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span> +Adikai, and none of our men had to go and draw +any water at all. Some trifling present soon put the +women in the best of tempers, but I really do not +think they minded the water being taken from them, +only they were terribly afraid lest their jars should +be broken. Most of them, when robbed, began +laughing and chaffing our servants.</p> + +<p>The next day we went on to the village of Azho, +and camped in the dry bed of a stream, in a field +where the Dargousa corn had just been cut. Our +camp was below a high plateau on which this large +village was built. It is the frontier village, and after +this you meet no more habitations till you come to +the province of Walkait, which would be from this +point about eight days' travelling on a mule. I had +gone on in front to fix the camp, and found some of +our donkeys, which we had sent on early in the morning, +waiting for us there; by-and-by the whole caravan +came up, after which we enjoyed a very pleasant +swim in a little pool in the river. This is a luxury +which anybody travelling in a hot country will +thoroughly appreciate, as it is impossible to take a +bath with you while travelling in this sort of way; and +we had to do most of our washing in a chillumchee.<a name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> + +The young chief and some of his followers came and +begged some powder and bullets: we gave them some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> +bullets but very little powder; as it is always +dangerous to give natives powder when they are +likely to be with you, because they might turn your +enemies, and it would be adding insult to injury +to be shot with your own ammunition.</p> + +<p>The messenger who had brought our letters from +home to Adiaboo informed us that he had passed +some men on the road who, he believed, were bringing +some guns and ammunition to us. Here at +length was some news of my long-looked-for Express +rifle, and also my heavy rifle. I had intrusted the +carriage of the gun for us to the missionaries who live +at Ailet, and Mr. Lager, the head missionary, said he +would arrange that everything should be forwarded +just as it was passed into his hands from the authorities +at Massowah. Sure enough, about noon the next day, +when we were lounging about camp and doing +nothing—in fact, waiting for the guns—I heard a shot +on the other side of the river, and very soon a short +little Abyssinian appeared, dressed in European +costume, followed by some natives carrying a box +and also some other cases. I was very much amused +at his firing the shot, as he strutted into camp with +an air of great importance, and feeling, no doubt, +that he had accomplished a great task. The shot +was to give notice of his presence as he came along. +I never was more pleased in my life; the guns had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> +arrived just at the right moment, and all were uninjured +and in as good order as when they had left +the gun-maker's shop in St. James's Street. The +little fellow who had brought them all this long way +was an Abyssinian that the missionaries had reared +and educated. He said he had had great difficulty +in getting along, and one of the coolies, having fallen +sick, had stayed at a village on the road. The first +thing we did was to give them plenty to eat and drink, +such as we had; we then squared accounts with +them, and they were to go back home the next day. +Most of this day was spent in unpacking the ammunition +and guns; they seemed to be all right. To-morrow +we were to start for the Tackazzee, and to +leave all traces of civilisation, of any sort, behind us; +while we were in the highest possible spirits and our +prospects were of the brightest.</p> + +<p>That evening I walked out and went up to the village +of Azho to see what it was like: on my way there I +"put up" some quail, but I did not fire at them. Azho +is a large straggling village built on a high plateau, +without any shade in or near it. Some of the natives +showed me the way up a steep hill, where I had +another view of the country we were going to, and I +came back when it was quite dark, having seen a +most beautiful sunset over the hills. H. thought I +was lost, and was very nearly sending out to look +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> +for me. The country we had been travelling through +from Adiaboo to Azho was very lovely, and the sides +of the low undulating hills were highly cultivated. I +have no doubt, in the valleys, the natives reaped a +rich harvest. The village of Azho itself was a good +specimen of Abyssinian dwellings; the people seemed +well-to-do, and the houses carefully and neatly built. +There was a custom-house here, where cotton from +Walkait and other distant provinces paid tribute. +Before I go on, I must say that the transport of my +guns from the village of Ailet to where we were at +Azho cost 46 dollars, and the coolies considered +themselves well paid.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 6.</i>—I started off, before H., with a guide to +show me the way, but we chanced, somehow or other, +to lose our road, and I was greatly annoyed. This +march I did on foot, as my grey mule, which had a +very sore back, had to be left behind at Adiaboo. K. +procured me another, but it was a sorry brute, and +always kicked when being mounted, so I got rid +of it. After wandering about some little time in the +jungle, trying to find our way, we at length hit upon +the path, and saw some of our own donkeys, under the +care of Hadji Mahomet, travelling along. We were +to camp at a place called Maidarou, the usual camping-place +on this road for all caravans. There were two +very large trees close to the pools which supplied us +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> +with water, and we were very glad of their shade +after the march of the day. For myself, I was rather +tired, and was not in very good working condition, +having through most of our marching been riding a +mule. After having lunched we pitched our tents on +the flat top of a little rocky hill which just overlooked +the two large trees that formed the great feature in this +camping-place. On my road here I shot at a gazelle, +but, unluckily, the man who was carrying my Express +rifle was some distance behind, and so I could only fire +at it with my little 16-bore gun with a bullet. The +next day we were to come to a place called Coom-Coom-Dema.</p> + +<p>This is the head-quarters of those Abyssinians who +come down to hunt elephants, for the young Abyssinians, +that is to say the gentlemen of the country, +think it part of their education to come here to shoot +elephants. There are regular ivory hunters, who +live at Azho and the villages near, and these go down +to assist. The young Abyssinians who seek to distinguish +themselves shoot at the elephant with small +shot or slugs, just enough to draw blood, and then it +is left to the Neftenias, or hunters, to finish him off +with bullets. Their mode of hunting is rather curious. +When they see the elephant, of course they stalk him +with great care: two lines are made; the first line, on +coming up to the elephant, fire and take to their heels +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> +as quickly as possible. If the elephant is wounded, he +very often charges, and then meets the second line, +who receive him with a greater number of shots; +they then follow him up, if badly wounded, and +despatch him at their leisure. The Abyssinians are, +as a rule, bad sportsmen, and seem to me to be totally +unacquainted with the commonest rules of wood-craft. +I would recommend all sportsmen who hunt in a wild +country to adapt their dress as much as possible to +the colour of the landscape in which they find themselves. +I always shot in brown cord breeches and +flax gaiters, with a good cumberbund<a name="FNanchor_12" id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> + round my +waist, and a short-tailed coat, which was made of +strong cotton stuff that I bought in India.</p> + +<p>All the servants with us, as well as the followers of +the young chief, were in a tremendous fright because +of the Baria, the negro tribe of which I spoke before, +and who came up to this part of the country to hunt +the elephant, and also to kill whatever Abyssinians +they could find. I myself never saw one of these +redoubtable natives, nor do I believe they would +attempt to attack a well-armed party; but in the +evening, over the camp fire, many terrible stories +were told of how So-and-so was murdered, and how +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> +cunning and treacherous the Baria were. Brou, the +interpreter, was not behindhand in telling us all +sorts of terrible things about them. One story he +told us was this: There was a man who lived in a +village close to the frontier, and who had to pay +tribute to the chief of his province in ivory. He had +gone down to the desert, or jungle, to hunt the +elephant alone; a wily Baria following him most of +the time. It should be stated that this tribe of natives +have no fire-arms, and only hunt and destroy with +spears and knives. The elephant-hunter was stalking +an elephant, and had come up to him; at the moment +he fired, the Baria, who had been sneaking after +him, jumped up from behind, drove his knife into him, +and killed him. This is a good example of their +treachery; but the Abyssinians are just as much to +blame in regard to the Baria or Shangallas, for whenever +the Abyssinians catch them in much smaller +numbers than themselves they generally kill them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i170" id="i170"></a> +<img src="images/i_170.jpg" width="550" height="335" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">A WILY BARIA.<br /> +<span class="s08"><i>To face page 147.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p><i>Feb. 7.</i>—H. went on in front to Coom-Coom-Dema: +I said that as it was early I should shoot +over part of the country and join him later. I went +away into the jungle, which lay south of our camp, +and came upon some old elephant tracks. I had not +gone very much farther before I saw some gazelles; +I managed to get near one of them, and, as it was +racing away on the side of a little hill, I rolled it over +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> +with my Express. My gun-bearers very soon skinned +it, and they having succeeded in lighting a fire, I said +they might eat some of it. The way an Abyssinian +hunter makes a fire in the jungle is this: he takes some +of his powder and rubs it on a bit of cotton cloth which +he tears off the clothes he is wearing, and then wraps +up a percussion cap in the cloth and hammers the cap +between two stones till it explodes; this ignites the +dry cloth, and with the help of some twigs and grass, +and by blowing very hard on the smouldering cotton, +he manages to light a fire. It is wonderful how natives +under the most trying circumstances will kindle a +flame where no European would think such a thing +possible.</p> + +<p>My gun-bearers were soon roasting the hind-quarters +of the gazelle on the ashes, and also eating some parts +of it raw. I was sitting down under the shade of a +tree, and heard Goubasee behind me munching something; +I turned round, and was much disgusted at +seeing him eating the stomach of a gazelle, which was +not in the least washed, and in fact was a filthy sight. +This is considered a great delicacy by Abyssinians, +especially when the stomach is covered with the +green undigested food of the animal. After we had +all rested, and they had eaten sufficient, we tracked +back on our old path, and soon struck the regular +caravan road. I thought it would have been a long +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span> +walk, but, to my astonishment, the hills opened and I +saw in front of me a large plain—this was the plain of +Coom-Coom-Dema. H. had pitched the tents, and +everything was ready and comfortable. Just after we +had lunched, one of the servants said that he could +see on the plain some large deer, which he called +<i>tora</i>; they were in reality hartebeest. They were +going down to drink from the pool where we got +our water, but directly they saw us they trotted off. +Some gazelles got up as we were walking along, and +I fired and missed, so did H. There were tracks +of buffalo all about our camp, but they were very +old, having been made during the rains. Barrakee, +who had undertaken the sporting arrangements of +the party, said this was a very good place for game, +but we determined not to stop here, but to press on +to the Tackazzee, the goal of my ambition.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 8.</i>—This morning we were almost awakened by +the noise the little sand-grouse made in circling round +and round our tents. I got up and brought down two +brace of them, as they wheeled round attempting to +settle on some ground close to our camp. It was +rather pretty shooting, as the birds came very fast, and +I only wished that I could have had some more of it, +but the rest of the pack soon got frightened and went +away. After this we packed up our traps and left +Coom-Coom-Dema. On the road, Barrakee, who was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span> +riding a large white horse, pointed me out a herd of +giraffes about half a mile off. I attempted to stalk +them, but did not succeed in getting near them. They +went off at a slight ambling pace, and when once they +had crossed the little hill, on the near side of which +they were feeding, I could not see them again. Fisk +had come with me, and we were both very anxious to +kill something. I shot at some sort of deer, but +missed, and on my way back saw a gazelle, at which +I did not fire.</p> + +<p>When I came back to the road, completely parched +with thirst, as it was very hot, I found that all our +donkeys had stopped: this was very vexing, as my +great object was to get on now as quickly as possible. +Brou said the donkeys were very heavily loaded, that +the day was hot, and that there was no prospect +of getting water between where we were and the +Tackazzee. This was simply untrue; for when I found +Barrakee and talked to him upon the subject, it turned +out that there was water farther on; so I immediately +made them reload the donkeys and push on. Barrakee +fixed our camp by the edge of a dry river-bed, in +which there was left a large pool of water, and there +were tracks of elephants having drunk here some +time previously. We cleared the high grass from +the jungle and pitched our tents, after which H. +went out shooting, but did not get anything. When +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span> +it was dark we saw jungle fires in the distance, +which our servants all said had been kindled by +the Baria to burn us out. This, of course, was all +humbug, or they had nothing better to talk about. +The place we camped at was called Kourasa, or the +house of the long-tailed monkey, and this water-hole +which we were camped by, Barrakee told us, is a regular +drinking-place for elephants; he added, with much +mystery and fear, that perhaps they might come in +the night and trample on our camp. I only hoped +they would! The natives assured me that we should +find the Tackazzee next day; and, accordingly, in the +morning we started, H. having gone on in front with +the young chief. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +THE FOREST—THE TACKAZZEE AT LAST—A FORD—AN UNHEALTHY +CAMP—HIPPOPOTAMI—A RAFT—ON THE ELEPHANT TRACK—IN +SIGHT OF GAME—A LION AND A MESS—BIVOUACKING—BEGINNING +OF MY ILLNESS—GUINEA FOWL—WE TURN HOMEWARDS—"THE +BLUES"—RAFT-BUILDING—A CARAVAN—ELEPHANT AGAIN—A BIG +FISH!—NEWSPAPERS—CHANGE OF QUARTERS—THE GAME OF +"GALANIFT." +</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 9.</i>—To-day I was to take charge of the heavy +baggage and donkeys; this we generally took it in +turns to do. I caught H. up at a river, where I +found them all drinking. He went on directly, and +I stopped for an hour to rest our twenty-one donkeys +and their drivers, and to let them have something +to drink. The country we were travelling through had +changed; we were at a much lower level than we had +been before, and dome-palms grew in every direction, +the shorter and younger ones of which made a thick +jungle which we pushed our way through, the leaves +causing a great rattling as we went on. This was +much more my idea of an African forest than anything +I had ever seen before. I saw a hagazin on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> +side of a hill near me, and tried to stalk it. I got so +close to the animal that I could hear him making a +peculiar grunting noise close to me, but for the life of +me, in the thick jungle, I could not make out where +he was. I moved on a little farther, and then I saw +him trotting away in the distance. Elephant tracks +were to be seen in all directions crossing the main path +along which we travelled, and fresh elephant dung was +here in quantities.</p> + +<p>I travelled on through the forest and came upon +the party of the young chief, who was waiting +for me by some water, H. having come across +elephants and gone after them. I asked the little +chief why he had not gone with him to hunt +elephants; he said, in the most polite way, that he was +staying behind to wait for me. I thanked him, and +determined to push on again and make the Tackazzee +that day. Mahomet, one of the coolies, or rather +donkey-drivers, that we had brought with us from +Adiaboo, volunteered to act as guide. I pushed on as +quickly as possible, and, about half-past four in the +afternoon, the servants pointed out the Tackazzee. +There, sure enough, was a broad river below me, running +between high rocky hills, with its waters gleaming +in the setting sun. I was standing several hundred +feet above it, and on the left of me, on the same side +on which I was, was a green jungle of grass and tamarisk +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> +bushes fringing the bank of the river. A large +herd of hagazin had just been drinking, and they were +moving quietly away, the males leading and the +hinds following with the little fawns trotting at their +feet. The whole scene was really a beautiful one, and +I stopped for some little time to admire the view +which lay before me. The natives had pointed out +the antelope to me, but I was too excited to take +any notice, so I gave them a view-halloo, and told the +guide to lead me to the bottom of the hill where the +river ran. When we got down into the green jungle +which fringed the bank of the river it was so high we +could not see over it, and pushing on through it, we +soon found ourselves on the shingly bed of the river. +The water was beautifully clear, and I gladly drank +a draught of it. We then forded the river with +some of the more lightly-laden donkeys, which had +managed to keep up and follow me. Goubasee, on +his arrival at the other side, held up his hands and +exclaimed, "God has brought us safely here!" I was +so pleased to see a large river again that I took off +my boots and paddled about in the water, for almost +the last fresh-water stream of a good size I had seen +was the one on which the Citizen penny steamers +glide.</p> + +<p>We had brought down two cows from Adiaboo with +us, and these animals were very nearly swept away by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span> +the stream, where they would have been devoured by +crocodiles. The man who had charge of them lost his +head, and became very nearly as frightened as were +the beasts themselves; at last some of the servants +rushed into the water, got below the cows, and drove +them back to the bank they started from. They then +attempted again, and crossed in safety. I fixed the +camp amidst a large grove of dome-palms; a prettier +place could not well be imagined. The ground was +perfectly flat; in fact, as if it had been thoroughly +stamped down. There was a beautiful shade of a large +leafy tree close by, but unluckily, as is often the case +in Eastern climes, where the scene is of the loveliest +the place is most unwholesome; and, as proved afterwards, +most of us, myself included, fell ill, which I +believe was a great deal owing to our not having fixed +our camp on one of the high hills that overlooked the +river, instead of down in the river-bed. <i>Experientia +docet</i>, and, as my readers will see afterwards, I paid +dearly for what little experience I gained in rough +travel in this country.</p> + +<p>I heard, in a pool below the ford where we had +crossed, some animals making an unusual noise, grunting +and blowing. I went down with my gun-bearers to +the edge of the river, and, behold! there were eight +fine hippopotami disporting themselves in the river, +much in the same way as the old river-horse at the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> +Zoo may be seen swimming about his tank. They +reared themselves out of the water and exposed +their heads and part of their necks, sometimes +opening their enormous jaws so that I could see +their white tusks. I fired at the nearest of the +herd, and hit him behind the ear. He began +bleeding profusely, and waltzed round and round in +the water, causing tremendous waves. At last in about +half an hour he sank, and we saw him no more. I +shot at several more and, I believe, killed another, but +we saw no traces of them again; and I think it is a +great chance, in a large rapid river of this sort, if +their carcases are found at all. I sent servants during +the following days up and down the river, but they +were quite unsuccessful in finding any trace of the +beasts. H. did not come in till late, having gone +after an elephant he had wounded. He told me they +had found large clots of blood on the animal's track, +but that he had to give up as they were getting far +away from our line of march and from any water-pools. +Cassa arrived very late with the rest of the +donkeys. He assured us that one of the Baria had +fired the jungle in a circle, and so had tried to surround +him and some of the more heavily-laden donkeys +which had lagged behind. This was quite believed +by all our servants, and it made a great impression +on some of them. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Feb. 10.</i>—To-day we rested most of the morning. +In the afternoon I went down to the pool where the +hippopotami were, but they had got much more shy, +and showed only just the tops of their heads and their +wicked-looking little ears above water. As one +opened his jaws I hit him smack in the mouth; this +sounded just as if a bullet had gone into a stack of +faggots. He sank immediately, and I could not in the +least tell whether I had killed him or not. As these +hippopotami had got so shy, I commenced to-day, +with the help of Brou, to make a raft on which to try +and go down the river to them. Some of the dome-palms +had fallen down from old age and from the +effects of the floods that sweep by during the rainy +season; I proposed to lash these together with raw +hide, but I had nothing except a hand-saw to cut the +logs the proper length, and the palm wood was very +hard and the weather very hot.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 11.</i>—We had arranged with Barrakee to go for +three days and sleep out, or bivouac, and hunt +elephants; we accordingly started straight inland +towards the mountains of Walkait. After we had +crossed the hills, under which the Tackazzee ran, we +came upon a sort of open plain with little hills cropping +up here and there, and we had been following +fresh elephant tracks the whole time. I must not +forget to mention that during the night a large herd of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> +elephants had passed close to our camp, and that all +the jungle round was trampled and broken in every +direction. I just remember, in a half-sleepy state, +hearing strange noises, but I thought at the time +that it was only the "hippos" disporting themselves +in the pool below. At last Barrakee, who was going +in front, said that we were getting very close to the +elephants, and that we must leave our mules behind +us, and follow them up the rest of the way on foot. +Not long afterwards we saw two elephants in the +distance moving slowly along. We tried to stalk +them, but we did not succeed. Barrakee took us to +some water, where we drank, and close by which, as +we came up to it, were some pigs lying asleep under +a tree. An Abyssinian tried to knock one over with +the butt of his gun, for we did not like to fire, being +so close to the elephants.</p> + +<p>After we had halted for a little time and rested ourselves, +Barrakee said we should move on, and he took +us to the top of a steep little hill, where he said we +were to pass the night, and from whence we could see +the whole country round us. Brou, and a couple of men +that Barrakee had with him, built us a "das." We ate +some luncheon, and then we sat down to watch for any +elephant that might perchance be about. We had thus +waited for about an hour when Barrakee leaped up and +said he saw two elephants in the distance, so we got +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span> +our guns and went off to stalk them. The elephants +were walking towards the south, following the main +body of the herd which had passed very early in the +morning. Our object was to cut them off on their +way, and Barrakee led us sometimes over the low +hills, and sometimes round the sides of them, and we +gradually approached nearer the two elephants, who +were moving along swinging their trunks about, and +sometimes stopping to pick off a bit of a shrub which +looked more dainty than the rest. At last there +was only one little hill for us to go over, and to cross +it would bring us right across the path of the two +elephants. We were creeping along very quietly +when, as we came to a few rocks, where, in the +rainy season, a torrent evidently poured down, Barrakee +stopped suddenly and said, "Ambasa!" which +is Amharic for lion. I snatched hold of my Express, +rushed up and saw a fine male lion moving slowly +away among the rocks. At the moment I was going +to fire, H. came up and fired his heavy rifle close +behind me; both barrels went off at once, and I thought +at first I was shot, as nine drams of powder is rather +a large charge to be let off close to one's ear. I missed +the lion; so did H. I loaded again and ran after +him and fired, and missed. The elephants, which were +not more than forty or fifty yards off, went off in +another direction, and the lion, passing through some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> +trees, "put up" a herd of large deer which went also +in a different direction. It was a sight grand enough, +but we had made a terrible mess of the whole thing: +we ought not to have fired at the lion, and, as the servants +said, "If you had killed the elephants, plenty of +lions would have come to pick the bones." I may tell +my readers that the lions in Abyssinia are not like +the familiar picture that is everywhere to be seen of +animals with enormous manes, as the species in this +country have no mane at all. We then walked back +to the little hill whereon we were to camp that night, +all of us disappointed and crestfallen. The whole +of the top of this hill was covered with the most +beautiful sweet-smelling grass, and of this we gathered +a large quantity to make our beds. I had arranged +with one of our servants to bring out my little camp +bed and blankets, but, as we went away from camp +rather quickly, following up the tracks of the elephant, +the native lost his way, and I had nothing to cover +me but some sacking, which the medicine case was +wrapped up in. That night we slept very comfortably +and warmly, as the grass made a capital bed.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 12.</i>—This day we moved away on the track +of the herd of elephants. The jungle became denser, +and Barrakee halted us by a beautiful stream of +water, and pointed out a hill close by, where he +said we should camp that night. A little river that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> +we were near was full of small fish, and I amused +myself by trying to catch some of them by damming +up a part of the river, but I did not succeed. After +luncheon I went up the stream, and found Barrakee +and H. seated on a rock engaged in trying to +catch some fish; one of them with a crooked pin, and +the other with the only hook we had in camp. +Amongst us we managed to lift three out of the +water; these I cleaned and brought them back into +camp for dinner. After catching the fish we took a +most delicious swim in the pool. That night, unluckily +for me, there was no grass to be found, and I +borrowed a blanket from Brou, but, foolishly, instead +of covering myself up with it, I rolled it up and used +it as a pillow. I caught a chill in the night, and +in consequence, found myself suffering from severe +diarrhœa in the morning. From this day date all my +troubles, illness, and misfortunes. It certainly was +very unfortunate, as we had only just got into the +country where the game was really to be found.</p> + +<p>This only shows how particularly careful one ought +to be when leading a life of this sort, and especially +when sleeping out in the open air. A good thick +flannel belt should always be worn next the skin. +What I really believe gave me this chill was that I +took off the cumberbund, which had been wound +tightly round my waist, in order to sleep more comfortably. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span> +This proceeding was a terrible mistake, as +it is in the night time and the early dawn that these +chills are acquired, which prove at all times most +deadly, especially in a hot climate.</p> + +<p>On the whole, I should consider Abyssinia to be a +very healthy country. The only two complaints which +Europeans seem to suffer from are intermittent fevers—which +are not, as a rule, of a very dangerous nature—and +dysentery, which, of course, if proper remedies +and suitable food are at hand, is not serious, but +under other circumstances may prove very dangerous. +Let me urge upon all travellers who go to seek adventure +and sport in Africa to remember to keep their +heads well protected from the sun, and their loins well +girded with either a thick cumberbund, worn outside, +or, better still, a flannel belt worn next the skin. +Every one will notice that the natives are dressed in +this way, especially the Arabs who live at Massowah, +where the climate is very hot. It would be useless +for me to go into the different diseases the natives of +the country are subject to. There is one which I have +already mentioned, that is the tænia, or tapeworm. +They are also subject to intermittent fevers during +the rains, and suffer from a complaint caused by a +parasite called the Guinea worm, which is a worm that +forms in the flesh, very often the thigh, and has to be +gradually twisted out. If during the operation the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> +worm breaks, a horrible ulcer forms. As to scrofula +and its origin, I saw very little of it, the natives +seeming, on the whole, pretty free from this terrible +scourge. When a person among them is afflicted with +very bad rheumatism they have rather an original way +of effecting a cure, which is by putting bits of cotton +on the parts affected, and igniting them, making them +burn fiercely by blowing upon the cotton. This is +even sometimes done for the purpose of creating +beauty marks, as they are considered—a young man +showing his fortitude by allowing one of the fair sex +to light one of these bits of cotton, and blow on it to +create as much heat as possible. If by any chance he +flinches, or shows any indication of pain, he is thought +to be a coward, and not worthy of the lady's notice. +Concerning this mode of curing rheumatism, I believe +there is some similar custom among country people +in England, the <i>modus operandi</i> being a heated flat +iron with which the affected limb is treated.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 13.</i>—I rode out this morning on my mule +through a green, thorny jungle which lay opposite the +hill on which we were camped. I was on the lookout +for big game, and so did not fire at a large flock +of guinea-fowl which I put up: there must have been +at least two or three hundred of them, and they all +rose at once, making a tremendous row. It was a +very pretty sight, and one quite peculiar to the country +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> +which I was in. I felt very seedy, and disinclined +to do anything; and so having gone straight through +this patch of jungle I came to the little stream again, +where I sat down by a pool, and waited there for most +of the day, in hopes of some animal coming down to +drink. Barrakee, who had been out in a different +direction with H., not long after I had been here, +came up, and H. went on down the stream, while +Barrakee and myself watched over the pool. A little +gazelle came to drink: instead of my waiting in order +to get a broadside shot, I fired at it while it was +looking at me, and the result was to break one of its +fore-legs. Barrakee rushed after it, but we saw no +more of it. I then mounted my mule, which had been +grazing close by, and rode home into camp. Our +three days were over, our provisions finished, and we +resolved the next day, which was Sunday, to start for +home.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 14.</i>—I was worse to-day, and we started early +for our camp on the Tackazzee. The servants, while +we had been absent, had, according to arrangement, +moved the camp away from the river; Fisk had been +left in charge. The reason of this move was they +were all very much frightened of the Baria, and +thought, as we should be absent with our guns, that +it would be better if they got away from the river, +by whose banks the Baria are supposed to be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> +always lurking. I rode towards camp feeling very +desponding, and on the way H. fired at some pig, +and wounded one badly, but the beast managed to +get away, leaving large tracks of blood on its path. +We also saw some strange-looking deer, of a colour +resembling that usual with donkeys, but with short +horns curving back from their foreheads like those +of goats: they stood, I should think, very nearly +fourteen hands from the ground. On our way back +we passed the spot which had been the scene of our +unlucky exploit with the lion, and, curiously enough, +two gazelles came bounding past at the time, but we +succeeded in missing them; we were fated to kill no +game in this place. When I rode into camp, Hadji +Mahomet, the old native we had brought from +Massowah, came up to welcome us back, and said, in +Arabic, "Allah has brought you safely back." I felt +very much inclined to reply, and I believe I did at +the time, "No, my mule has brought me back," as I +felt very disappointed, and looked upon the expedition +we had made as a total failure. I was very glad to +get into a comfortable bed, as the coolie, who had lost +his way, had succeeded in finding the camp the servants +had pitched a little way off from the Tackazzee.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 15.</i>—I was still bad with this horrid complaint, +and so I stayed in camp reading the few books +we had with us, and took medicine; I also amused +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> +myself by making a small model of the raft that +I proposed to use when hunting the hippopotami, in +order that Brou might understand how to go on +working at it. H. and Fisk went out shooting partridges +to make broth for me. There were not nearly +so many partridges here on the Tackazzee as we +found on the Mareb; for the tamarisk bushes which +fringe the banks of the Mareb were, as a rule, full of +them. With a couple of dogs we might really have +had some very good shooting, and made big bags; +but without dogs it was almost impossible to get the +birds up, as they ran so tremendously; but when they +did get up they were not hard to shoot, as they did +not seem to fly nearly so strongly as the English +birds, which they very much resembled, with one exception, +which was that their bills and legs were red, +the plumage being exactly the same. We tried to +keep some of the birds, in order to give them that +gamy flavour which is esteemed in England; but the +weather was too hot, and the flesh got bad too +quickly. The rapid setting-in of decomposition was +a great drawback when a beast was killed in camp, as +the meat had to be eaten almost immediately; but, +both in its raw and cooked state, it is surprising what +a quantity the natives will manage to consume.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 16.</i>—To-day I was very much better, the +medicine seemed to have done me good; but, instead +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> +of staying in camp and perfecting my cure, I stupidly +went out and did a hard day's work, standing up to +my middle under water in a hot sun, to complete the +raft. The raft when finished was, to speak fairly, a +great success. It was made in the following way: +Six logs of the dome-palm tree were lashed with raw +hide, cut from the skin of one of the cows which we +had killed in camp; the logs were lashed to two cross +pieces, and from one cross piece to the other I fixed +two thin pliable boughs, under which I jammed a lot +of dry "hippopotamus grass" (the long grass growing +by the side of the river), which had been cut a +day or two before and put out in the sun on the +shingly bank of the river to dry. The grass was +jammed in under these thin sticks, so that it went +across the logs and made a place for any one to +stand in, and also assisted in promoting the buoyancy +of the raft.</p> + +<p>A caravan of about three or four hundred people +came across the river to-day on their way to +Walkait. These caravans generally assemble in +Tigré, in order to make up a large number, so that +their goods may be properly cared for in case of +any attack by the Baria. One man among them +had a couple of very good-looking donkeys; he +must have procured them from some of the Arab +tribes who live on the borders of the country; I tried +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> +to buy one of the donkeys, but the man wanted a +great deal too much for it. The caravan only stayed +close to our camp during the heat of the day, and in +the afternoon they moved on. They were bringing +back grain and salt, having taken out cotton to the +different towns in the province of Tigré.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 17.</i>—I am better to-day, and I worked at the +raft to put the finishing touches to it. In the afternoon +I went out fishing, and I had put on a hook with a piece +of raw meat as bait, having made a rod of two bamboo +sticks spliced together. I caught nothing, nor did I +even get a bite. I was sitting in camp towards the +evening when one of the coolies rushed in to say that +he had seen some elephants on the other side of the +river, a little way down, looking very much as if they +were going to cross the river. Barrakee was in camp. +I took my guns, and he, with two of his men and my +gun-bearers, went out to look for the elephants. We +crept along the bank of the river, and on the other +side Barrakee pointed out two fine bull elephants; +they were standing amongst the dense jungle which +bordered the river, evidently undecided whether to +cross or not. H. and Fisk were out shooting partridges +for our dinner, and just as we saw the elephants +we heard two shots. This was very unlucky, but H. +had no idea that there were elephants near. It must +have startled them, as very shortly afterwards we saw +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span> +them crashing away through the forest. It was a +very pretty picture to see these huge animals standing +amongst the thick trees and jungle, the rays of the +setting sun, at the time, just lighting up the broad +and sparkling river as it ran below us—the whole +being a thoroughly wild African scene, and one which +any lover of sport would have appreciated. I should +say that whilst fishing that afternoon I left a hand-line +in charge of a native, who afterwards assured me, +when I asked him if he had had a bite, that some +big fish had taken hold of it and pulled him on to his +knees; certainly one of his knees was a little bit +bruised by the stones. The thermometer here ranged +from 109° to 115° in the tent, in the middle of the +day; so my readers may imagine it was pretty hot.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 18.</i>—To-day Brou got the raft ready for +launching, and a large caravan of nearly four hundred +people came across the river, most of whom camped +close by. One of our messengers, whom we had +employed to carry letters for us to the coast, had +taken this opportunity of joining the caravan in +order to bring the letters down to us. Arrekel Bey, +the Governor of Massowah, had sent me some French +newspapers, so we were well posted up in all the news. +The chief of the caravan had been very kind to our +coolie, who was named Givra Michael, and had +given him food during the journey. We sent for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span> +the chief and talked some time with him: he told me +he was taking his people, and cows, and belongings, +back to his home in Walkait, the country then being at +peace. There are very often feuds and disputes going +on among the petty chiefs, especially in this part +of Abyssinia. I amused the Abyssinian by showing +him my guns and revolvers, and, for his edification, +fired at a mark with one of my revolvers: he was +much astonished at the rapidity with which the revolver +went off. I made him a present of a pocket-handkerchief +and two hanks of beads, with which he +was very much delighted. I had with me at the +time Rassam's book, called 'British Mission to Abyssinia;' +in the frontispiece of the first volume is a +picture of King Theodore, and this I showed to the +chief and most of his followers. They were intensely +interested with it, and said the likeness was +very good. It was very amusing to hear their remarks +and to see the expression on their faces as the +picture was handed round. I went out fishing in the +evening, but some monster of the deep ran out about +seventy yards of my line so fast that I could scarcely +hold it. I am rather better to-day, having taken some +opium.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 19.</i>—Brou came to me this morning to tell +me that Barrakee was suffering from diarrhœa, and +begged I would give him a little brandy and water. I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span> +also discovered that others of the servants were suffering +from the same complaint; indeed none of them +looked very well. I consulted with H., and it was +agreed that we should move camp to-night, there +being a full moon at the time, which afforded plenty of +light to travel by. I launched the raft in the afternoon, +and got it safely over the rapids that we had +forded, and moored it on the left bank of the river, a +little above the hippopotamus pool. I thought at +the time that perhaps a change up into the more +bracing air of the hills would do myself, as well as +the rest of the party, some good, and that we might +before leaving the country return here; but my wishes +were never realized. That evening we dined early and +left camp about eight o'clock, having burned all our +"dasses" (or leaf-houses), which made a tremendous +blaze, and the scene certainly was a wild one. Before +coming down to the Tackazzee I had presented all +the servants with a piece of red cloth, which they put +round their heads, and by the light of the blazing +sticks they looked more like so many devils than +human beings. They were scantily clothed, and the +red handkerchiefs gave them a fierce and wild appearance. +We crossed the river, bathed in the light +of a full tropical moon, then marched up along the +road that we had come by, and we pitched camp near +some water in the jungle at 10.45. I was a little +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> +better, but the ride up from the river tired me a good +deal.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 20.</i>—My complaint is about the same, but I do +not suffer so much pain from it. I took three doses +of opium, but this medicine makes one feel very +weak. I amused myself in the afternoon learning +an Abyssinian game called Galanift, which is played +in the following way: twelve small holes are dug in +the ground, six in a row opposite each other; four +pellets, or bullets, are put into each hole; A takes +one row, and B the other. They sit down opposite +each other, and the object of the game is to take +the adversary's bullets by certain moves, which are +all made from left to right. It is something like +the game called Solitaire, but is very complicated, +and requires the exertion of your powers of mental +arithmetic to understand it. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +OUR DAILY ROUTINE—BAKING A JERKED KOODOO—LOSS OF AN +ELEPHANT—A SEPARATION—MY ILLNESS INCREASES—STARVATION—A +GOD-SEND—SAD PLIGHT—FRESH SUPPLIES—A HARD MARCH—NARROW +ESCAPE—AN EXCITING HUNT—PRIMITIVE BUTCHERY—A +CURIOUS SHOT—CARAVAN—EXCHANGE OF CIVILITIES—"CHURCH"—CHANGE +OF AIR—ACCIDENT TO THE KITCHEN—STRANGE VISITORS—A +THUNDERSTORM. +</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 21.</i>—I have nothing of great importance to +tell about this day. I lost my pencil, that I used +to write my diary with, and I was obliged to use +as a substitute the sad remains of the only quill +pen left me, and which I managed to render serviceable +by tying it on to a bit of stick. As I +have so little to say, I will give you a sketch of our +day in camp. It begins mostly at sunrise. The +first thing that happens is that the donkeys and +mules are untethered and led out to grass. Our +water-barrel is taken down to the stream or pool +which we are camped by, to be filled; it takes about +three men to carry it up again full. When the water +is brought up the kettles are put on to boil, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> +Mahomet, who is my servant, and Fisk, H.'s servant, +get ready our things for dressing. We get +up and generally perform our ablutions in the open +air, with our little basin either propped upon the +stump of a tree or else on a heap of stones close to +the tent. We breakfast about eight, and then go out +shooting—that is to say, I used to do so when I +was well. Fisk serves out the servants' rations for +the day about ten o'clock, and a very few minutes +after this all hands are hard at work making their +bread, which is accomplished by mixing flour and +water and making the whole mass into a plaster-of-Paris-like +paste.</p> + +<p>Most of our servants have divided themselves into +messes of three or four, and the way in which they +bake their bread is both original and primitive. Well-to-do +travellers in Abyssinia, generally carry an iron +pan, exactly the shape of one of the copper scale +pans that grocers weigh tea in, but the poorer +natives have to content themselves with a flat stone, +numbers of which are to be seen, propped up on +other stones, at all the camping-places on the road, +with the ashes of recent fires beneath them. While +they are making their paste the stone is being +heated over a fire, and directly it is hot enough they +pour on to it the liquid dough and let it bake; +when it is done on one side they turn it over like a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> +pancake. When sufficiently cooked it is a hot doughy +sort of flat cake; and those people who are lucky +enough to have a little red pepper eat it with the +bread. There is nothing of which an Abyssinian is +so fond as red pepper, and the quantity he manages +to pass down his throat is something surprising. +We had a good deal of rice with us, and had found +that by grinding the rice between two smooth flat +stones, which we got from the bed of the Tackazzee, +it made excellent flour; and we had hot rice cakes, +baked in Brou's iron pan, every morning for breakfast. +After breakfast, if I did not go out shooting, +there was generally something to do in camp, either +to mend or put the men to work at making ropes, out +of the fibre of a certain tree, for lashing our things +together, or else sending them to cut grass for our +"das," or leaf-house, which we live in during the day, +as these bowers are always much cooler when they are +well thatched with grass. Sometimes we have tiffin, +and sometimes not. It is usually hottest between one +and three in the afternoon, and then it is always +best to be in camp. In the evening we generally +went out shooting till dark. The donkeys and mules, +having been taken to water, are brought in about five +o'clock and tethered; they are left to stand till +dark, when the grass that has been cut is given them +for the night. We dined between seven and eight, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> +and after dinner the flour was served out to the +servants for their evening meal. Any arrangements +were now made for the day following. H. and I +sat by the camp fire, generally played a tune upon +my banjo, and then, after enjoying a smoke, we +turned in to rest.</p> + +<p class="p2">After dinner is one of the pleasantest times in +this beautiful climate; the stars shine brightly, and +from the place where we were now encamped the constellations, +both of the Great Bear and the Southern +Cross, could be seen. For the last week I had been +so unwell that I had not written up my journal. +Symptoms of dysentery had appeared, and I was +afraid I should be laid up. During this week H. +had been out shooting, and he and Barrakee had the +luck between them to kill a large koodoo. Of course +all hands in camp were delighted, and a great portion +of the meat was "jerked," that is to say, hung up in +the sun and dried. We found, at first, this jerked +meat was very hard to eat, but by grinding it between +two stones, mixing it with a little rice, fat, +and onions, and then making it into a sort of rissole +and frying it, it did not make at all a bad meal.</p> + +<p>One day during this week H. went out after +elephants, and saw a very large herd; he said there +must have been about eighty of them, but when the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> +herd winded the hunters, they trumpeted and separated +about the country. Two of them were making +down a little ravine, close to where H., Barrakee, +and the gun-bearer, were standing. H. told me +that Plowden Gubrihote, his gun-bearer, was in a +dreadful "funk," and assured him that these elephants +were the man-killing elephants, well known +in this part of the world; that they would surely kill +them if they did not immediately take to their heels +and run away. H. told him to sit still, or else he +would "lick" him. The elephants came nearer and +nearer, and one of Barrakee's men put up his gun to +fire. This would have been ridiculous, as they were +nearly eighty yards off. H. knocked the gun out of +his hand, and told him to sit quiet. The elephants +were now fast approaching, when Barrakee and his man +both fired. This was exceedingly annoying, as from +all accounts the elephants would have passed by close +to where the party were concealed, and H. would have +had a capital shot.</p> + +<p>We stopped in the jungle here rather more than a +week. I thought perhaps another change of air would +do me good, and we moved up to Kourasa, where we +had been camped before. I did not know at the time +that I was so ill, nor did H., or else I should not +have made the proposal I did when we got here. I +told H. that our time was short in the country, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> +it was of very little use his stopping with me; I +thought he had better move on with Barrakee, who +assured us that, in the country near his village on the +frontier, we should find very good shooting, even much +better than we had had before. H. left me a few +servants behind, and four or five donkeys. We were +getting short of flour, and we agreed that he should +go on to Barrakee's village, send me back flour for the +servants, and that I, on the day after he left, would +move up to Coom-Coom-Dema and stop there till the +flour arrived. Accordingly the next day he started +away in the morning. Just as he left, luckily I said +to him, "I think you had better leave me five dollars of +our money, in case of accidents." This was literally all +the coin I had with me when I started to go to the coast.</p> + +<p>I started the next day for Coom-Coom-Dema, +and very nearly lost my way; my gun-bearers did +not seem to remember it, and it was only by chance +that I recollected some trees and a low hill which +guided me across the plain to where we had been encamped +before. When I arrived I felt very bad indeed, +and I was really exceedingly ill. The flour had run out, +and I had to serve out some rice that evening to my +servants; for myself I had some biscuits to eat. I +hoped by the morning of the next day to receive flour +from H., but it never came, and the servants had no +food nearly all that day, except some scraps that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> +they had managed to save. The next morning I had +nothing to give them, but they seemed to bear it all +without complaint. I went out to try and kill some +of the little sand-grouse for myself, but I did not +succeed. When I came into camp Petros informed +me the donkey-boy had broken down; and when he +had brought in the animals to tie them up for the +night, that he had begun to cry and had said, "Where's +master? for I want something to eat." I was at my +wit's-end what to do, as it was two long days' march +to the nearest village, which was Azho, and I had +only just enough rice for one meal.</p> + +<p>Things looked very bad; the evening closed in, +and, just before it got dark, Petros shouted out, +"Oh, here is the flour!" It was not our own flour, +it was a leading party of a caravan which was +going through to Walkait. This was indeed a +God-send! I saw there was no time to be lost, +so I called for my rifle, and the first donkey I +saw that looked as if it was loaded with flour I +seized, led to the camp, unloaded it, and poured out +the flour on the tarpaulin sheet which generally +formed the floor of our tent. The owner of the +donkey, as well as some of the rest of the caravan, +were, I believe, going to expostulate; but I told one +of my servants to tell them if they moved I would +shoot them, and that we were starving and we must +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span> +have food. At that moment the chief of the caravan—or +rather the man who is generally appointed to +lead these people through the country, and arrange +all payments to the customs—appeared. He made +everything all right, and we kept the flour; and, as he +rode away to the place where they were going to stop +that night, he sent me back, by one of my servants, +some bread of his own.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 26.</i>—I find in my journal this day that I was +very ill, and went out in the morning and shot two brace +of little sand-grouse, as I had not had fresh meat for +some little time. I did not take any more medicine, as +I found it made me so weak. I caused the servants to +make me a large "das," long and narrow; in one end I +used to sit most of the day, and in the other my guns +and what few provisions I had were hung up. They +watered the ground all round, and also the grass walls +of the "das," so that it made me pretty cool during the +heat of the day, whilst the darkness kept the flies out: +certainly it was rather miserable work feeling and +being ill all alone in the jungle; indeed long before +this I ought to have started for home, as, when once +dysentery gets hold of you, nothing but complete +change of air, good food, and medicine, is likely to +effect a cure. I still hung on to the thought that I +should get better, but, if I had known what was really +the matter, I should never have hesitated. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Feb. 27.</i>—Our own flour did not appear till the +afternoon of to-day, and I never felt more pleased +than when I got it. They gave me a note from H., +which was written in pencil on an envelope, and ran +as follows:—</p> + +<p class="address"> +"Barrakee's Village, <i>Friday, 26th</i>, 1 <span class="s08">P.M.</span></p> + +<p>"Thank Heaven we have just this moment arrived! +You never saw such a journey: it was sixty, if not +seventy, miles. We waited for two hours in the heat +of the day to rest the donkeys, and then went on as +hard as we could, and arrived at the river that Barrakee +had spoken about at 6 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> The rest of the donkeys +came up about an hour after. We stayed till the +moon got up about 11 or 12 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> We had to leave +the donkeys behind; they will, I hope, be here some +time to-night. I have been marching ever since, and +have just this moment arrived. The mules are regularly +done up: mine and Fisk's cannot move. I shall +keep the things <i>here</i> till you <i>come up</i>. You will find it +two good days' march from Coom-Coom-Dema to this +place. The river B. spoke about is a beastly place; +the water is bad, but you will be able to catch fish. +We caught some. Three of Barrakee's villagers are to +take the flour. I brought one of ours on, intending to +send him back, but it is impossible, for he is dead beat +and has been walking for twenty-four hours straight +off; he could never walk back sixty miles, for I quite +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span> +think it is that from Coom-Coom-Dema. You will see +when you come. They will show you the way here. +How is your complaint, old man? I do trust it is all +right now. I cannot move from here, for I know +when the baggage comes up the donkeys will be completely +done. They are bound to come on account of +the food.</p> + +<p class="address"> +"<i>Friday, Feb. 26</i>, 1.30 <span class="s08">P.M.</span></p> + +<p>"They have just finished grinding and collecting +the flour. Our coolie is going after all. He is +anxious to make a dollar. If they are not with you +before sunset to-morrow (Saturday), they forfeit a +dollar. The money is with their Shum.<a name="FNanchor_13" id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> + There is +enough for one hundred and sixty bread" (rations), +"also ten eggs. One of the bags that the flour is in +does not belong to us. We shall soon be all straight. +Barrakee is getting the rest of the flour."</p> + +<p class="p2">Never was letter more acceptable, and especially as +with it had come the long-desired and looked-for +flour. Although H. had not long been away from +me, in the short time I had experienced a feeling of +loneliness as well as utter helplessness; but it was no +good giving way to thoughts like these, as if my servants +once saw any inclination on my part to despond, +I should never have been able to get anything done, +and they would have found out too soon that even +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> +the much-dreaded white man is at times dependent +upon help, even if it be from a nigger. On the whole, +I cannot complain of my servants, as they had much +to put up with. When one is ill, little annoyances are +hard to bear, and I dare say at times I was thought +rather tyrannical; but it is very little use regretting +these things now, as there is not the remotest chance +of any of my natives reading what I have here written.</p> + +<p><i>Feb. 28.</i>—This was an uneventful day, and I felt +exceedingly weak and ill. It had become very much +cooler than it was in the two camps nearer the +Tackazzee, as the north wind blows towards the +evening and the mornings are quite cool.</p> + +<p><i>March 1.</i>—I find written in my journal: "Am, I +think, getting really better. I have shot one and a +half brace of little sand-grouse as they flew near the +tent in the morning. I went after the herd of hartebeest +that I had seen very often near the tent, on the +plain at the head of which I was encamped, but I +could not get near them. I succeeded to-day in very +nearly poisoning myself by mistaking one medicine +for another, for I took opium in mistake for some +other stuff. After I had discovered my error I swallowed +some brandy, went out for a walk, and told my +servants if they found me going to sleep to wake me +up."</p> + +<p><i>March 2.</i>—The opium seems to have done me good, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span> +as I find written in the journal that "I am decidedly +better, the symptoms of dysentery having partly gone +away." To-day I had great fun shooting a fine bull +hartebeest. This animal is about the size of an +Alderney cow. I was going out of my tent very early +in the morning when I saw the herd grazing not far +off on the plain. I tried to stalk a bull which was +feeding behind the herd and on the nearest side to me, +but I failed. I then tried to stalk another, which was +more on the left of the herd, and which looked a very +big gentleman, and, I think, an old friend of mine, as I +had fired at him before. As I was creeping along, the +herd had closed up and passed not far off on my +right. The bull that I had first tried to stalk was following. +I missed him with both barrels of my +Express, and then I ran to the top of an ant-hill +and took aim at him with my heavy 12-bore rifle. +It was a very long shot; the left barrel broke his hind-leg +just at the hock; and now the hunt began.</p> + +<p>I had come out of my tent with only my slippers on, +and in walking through the burnt grass of the plain +the short hard stubs were rather trying to my feet +with nothing but stockings on. The bull hartebeest +managed to go very nearly two miles; he stopped on +several occasions and let me come close up to him. I +fired at him with my Express, and, as I thought, +missed him; he then limped away again, but went +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> +a good deal faster than one would suppose was possible. +It was getting very hot, but I was determined +the brute should not beat me. I lost sight of him for +a little time among some trees; when I got through +them I found he was trying to ascend a small hill. I +had two more cartridges of my heavy rifle, and these +I fired at him, and as he was waddling up the hill +the shot broke the fetlock-joint of his other hind-leg. +This stopped him, and Goubasee and myself +found him sitting up like a dog, close to a white-ant +hill. I had no knife with me and no cartridges, and I +did not know on earth what to do; so Goubasee got +big stones and handed them up the ant-hill to me, as +I stood on the top and tried to smash his head in by +throwing them at him. He charged at me in a clumsy +way twice, when I was not on the ant-hill, and very +nearly caught me with his horns as I half tripped-up +in stepping back. I thought I would look in the cartridge-bag +to see if I had completely run out of +ammunition: to my great joy I found one Express +cartridge; so I put the beast out of his misery with +a shot behind the ear.</p> + +<p>Guyndem, my other gunbearer, soon came up with +knives. The carcase was soon skinned and cut up, +and I sent back for two donkeys to carry the flesh +into camp; it made two heavy loads for the donkeys, +and the head and skin taxed the strength of the donkey-driver +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span> +as he carried it home. I found that the +animal had been hit by three bullets; one of these was +a very curious shot: when I had fired at him with +the Express, and thought it was a miss, the bullet +had entered and exactly divided the hartebeest's tail +as he was galloping straight away from me. This +shot must have entered his entrails and stopped him +considerably; the two other bullets were the shots +that broke the hock of one of his hind-legs and the +fetlock-joint of the other. There was great rejoicing +amongst the servants and donkey-drivers, who had +abundance to eat; and three long strings of jerked +meat might be seen festooning the trees near camp. +They dried the meat on the leather thongs with which +the baggage was tied on the donkeys; these thongs +were stretched from tree to tree.</p> + +<p>I returned to camp completely done up; and I do +not think the chase after the deer, under the hot sun, +did me very much good; but still a little sport, when +you have been ill for some time, cheers you very much. +I had been trying to make little snares to catch small +birds with, and especially the doves, that came down +in great quantities to drink at the water-pools. It +was rather amusing to watch them on these occasions, +but they were far too wary to be caught by +such clumsy contrivances.</p> + +<p><i>March 3.</i>—Went out this morning to look for some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span> +gazelles, of which there are generally two or three in +a little patch of very high grass that escaped the fire +at the time the rest of the dry grass was burnt. I +saw a buck gazelle and fired both barrels of the +Express, and missed. I then went and stood on an +ant-hill in the middle of the patch of high grass; two +does got up close under my feet and rushed away. I +fired both barrels, and missed. The gazelle is by +no means an easy thing to hit with a rifle when it +is going fast, as it is very small. I was rather +disgusted with this bad shooting, and was walking +back to camp when up rose another buck. I fired one +barrel, and missed; this shot seemed to turn him, and +he went away parallel to the direction I was going in, +offering a shoulder shot. I rolled him over with my +left barrel as he was cantering along; he gave two +or three convulsive bounds, and, when I got up to +him, he was quite dead; there is nothing like an +Express bullet for deadliness. Goubasee made a bag +of the skin, and I kept the head.</p> + +<p>When I got back to camp I found that H. had sent +me some more provisions, and I also got a letter from +him, written on an envelope:—</p> + +<p class="address"> +"Barrakee's Village, <i>Sunday, February 28th</i>.</p> + +<p>"The coolies have just come back. I am very glad +you got the flour from the caravan—that was first-rate; +but I am sorry you are not coming on yet. As +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> +for this village, it is a horrid place, and there is nothing +to shoot within miles of it. It is up on a hill, +but is on the way to the Mareb; and so to-morrow I +am going to start with Fisk, Barrakee, Brou, and three +or four coolies. I shall leave some behind for you, +and they will bring you on; Barrakee is going to leave +a man to show you the way. I hope I shall have +better luck than on the Tackazzee. As for flour, I +cannot send you as much as I would, but still send a +good lot. We have hardly any empty bags. We sent +you three the other day; but when you get here have +them filled up, and come down. I send a bundle of +letters down, addressed to the consul at Suez—will +you see that one coolie, if not two, takes them down +to Massowah, to catch the steamer on the 24th of +March, as it only takes nine days at the outside to +get from Coom-Coom-Dema to Massowah. Do send +them for me to Arrekel Bey, and ask him to post +them. I send them to you, as I know you will have +some letters to send too. I have no ink or paper left. +This is the last—and I am writing to you now with +gunpowder and milk, which does capitally. I am +fearfully sorry about you, and should come back if I +thought I could do any good; but I know I really +could not. But I trust, old fellow, you will be all +right by the time you receive this. I shall not send +the flour off from here till daylight on Tuesday morning, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span> +or if I can I will arrange for it to leave on +Monday (to-morrow) evening. They are working hard +now, grinding a dollar's worth for us to take; and I +am sending you some honey, one bottle of brandy, +potatoes, onions, and some eggs. One donkey takes +the flour and two of our coolies.</p> + +<p class="address"> +"<i>Monday morning, March 1st.</i></p> + +<p>"Your flour will leave this afternoon. Cassa here, +in charge of the baggage left behind. Shall be back +to-day fortnight; but they will show you the way +down when they come.</p> + +<p class="left65">"Ever yours,<br /> +<span class="i4">"H."</span></p> + +<p class="p2">I must explain to my readers that the Mareb which +H. talks of in this letter is the same river that we +were on before, he being many miles lower down its +course, in fact, much nearer the plains than where we +had been.</p> + +<p class="p2">A large caravan with cotton from Walkait came by +to-day. The chief of the caravan came up to me as I +was seated outside my "das" loading some cartridges, +and paid his respects, commencing by making two very +low bows—nearly touching the ground with his head. +I gave him some powder which he begged for, and +asked him if he would give me a <i>machet</i>, which is a +Tigré word for a little sickle, which the natives use to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> +cut grass for their beasts; and my servants were always +complaining that they had not one, and so they could +not manage to cut grass well for the donkeys. He +was exceedingly civil and good-natured, and took one +of my coolies on with him some little way on the +road, to the place where they were going to camp, +and sent him back with the machet. The chief told +me they had seen elephants as they had come up from +the Tackazzee, and also three or four of the Baria +tribe. His people, very bravely—as they were ten to +one—offered to fight the Baria; but these niggers +were wise in their generation, and took to their heels +on seeing so large a party. The tail of the caravan +did not come up till nearly dark, and so camped for +the night about 150 yards from my tent. Just after +sunset, when I was going to eat my dinner, they +began a low-toned chant in which they all joined; it +was rather pretty and mournful. I asked Hadji +Mahomet, who was a Mahomedan, what it meant; +he said it was "church;" at least that was the interpretation +that Petros, my bearer, put upon his answer. +All these men who were singing were Abyssinian +Copts. I was much better in health this day.</p> + +<p><i>March 4.</i>—Instead of staying quietly at Coom-Coom-Dema +I thought that a change of air to the +other side of the plain would do me good. I had +seen a spring of water on my way here, and so in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span> +morning I sent out one of my servants to look for it. +He came back and said he had found it; and so, in +the evening, just before sunset, I started for my new +camp. The servants were very annoying and they +would do nothing they were told. I fired much of the +dry grass of the plain, in hopes of burning the rest of it +bare in order that I might see more game, and I had a +long shot at a "tora," or hartebeest, on my way across. +When we got rather near the water where I was to +camp we happened to lose our way, and we were +wandering about for some time. Ali the cook possessed +a mule, on which the tin-pots and kettle were +strapped; the animal got frightened at the rattling of +the things on its back, and galloped away kicking and +plunging, sending the utensils flying in different directions, +including my two plates and a large boiling-pot +that I used to make soup in, and also Ali's bedding; +this, I am sure, he regretted a good deal more than +any of my things. He had bought this wretched +mule for 12 dollars at Adiaboo. This trip across made +me very ill, as all my arrangements went wrong, and +I did not get comfortably to bed until rather late.</p> + +<p>Before I left Coom-Coom-Dema three wild-looking +men came into camp: they said they had come down +into the jungle to look for wild honey. They had a +small gourd filled with this stuff, for which they wanted +a dollar, and they were evidently very poor. They +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> +gave me as a present two large pear-shaped fruit with +a green velvety shell; the inside was filled with seeds, +covered with a sort of white spongy pulp, which +was deliciously acid. The servants called this fruit +Habbaboo. I find Mansfield Parkyns says that this +fruit is called Dema, the scientific name being +<i>Adansonia digitata</i>. I gave these honey-hunters two +hanks of beads, with which they seemed very well +pleased.</p> + +<p><i>March 5.</i>—I was not nearly so well this morning, +having drunk some brandy and water the night +before. The rice-water which I had been drinking +during my illness had been made at Coom-Coom-Dema +before I started, but it was in one of the tin-pots +that galloped off on the back of Ali's mule. +The servants again put me up a capital "das," and it +was very dark and cool. The cook's mule was found +to-day, but minus the stock-pot and some plates. I +informed him I would shoot the brute if he did not go +out and find the plates, etc., and wonderful to relate, +they appeared in the evening all right, but rather battered. +The mule had gone back to Coom-Coom-Dema, +and was found close to where we had before camped, +cropping the grass by the side of the water. I went +out in the evening and shot one of the little sand-grouse +for dinner as it came down to drink. I felt +very poorly, and almost too weak to walk about. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span></p> + +<p><i>March 6.</i>—Worse to-day. This horrid complaint +sticks to me, symptoms of dysentery having returned. +I am afraid I must make up my mind to start for +home—a bad ending to a sporting expedition. I +shall have been ill now three weeks to-morrow. I +took some chlorodyne last night, and I think it only +made me worse.</p> + +<p><i>March 7.</i>—I am much better this morning, having +taken three doses of opium, which acted instantaneously, +thank goodness! There was a thunder-storm +last night with two very heavy showers, +and the most beautiful sunset I ever saw; great +masses of clouds coming up from the south-east, and +vivid lightning, and the thunder rolling and echoing +through the mountains; it was a very grand sight. +I was kept awake part of last night by the howling of +a hyena, about ten yards from the tent. I thought +at first it was a lion, but the servants assured me it +was a <i>gib</i>, which is their word for hyena. He stopped +about a quarter of an hour, making a hideous noise, +and at last retired. There was a new moon to-day, +so I was in hopes there might be a change in the +weather, which would have done me much good: it +was a great deal cooler this morning, after the +thunder-storm. I made Goubasee administer a slight +castigation to Ali, the cook, who had neglected to +boil my rice-water the night before, and, as it was the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> +only thing I had to drink, this was very disagreeable, +as it was brought to me for my breakfast almost +boiling hot and excessively nasty. It is needless to +say this mistake never occurred again. This was not +his first offence, and Ali, who was a Cairo man, was +rather inclined at times to be sulky, and not to do +anything; but on the whole he was not a bad +servant. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +AN INGENIOUS BED—EN ROUTE FOR THE COAST—A SAD PLIGHT—UNPLEASANT +TRAVELLING—FRIENDS—FORCIBLE PERSUASION—AN +AMUSING ENCOUNTER—AN ADVENTURE—I OPEN A BAZAAR—PRICES—HOSPITALITY—HAGGLING—REINFORCEMENT—LETTERS +FROM +HOME—A MISERABLE NIGHT—FALSE RUMOURS—I SELL TWO +DONKEYS—"HARD UP"—GEESE AND HORNBILLS—ILL-TIMED +THEFT—STRANGE QUARTERS—TOOTH-BRUSHES. +</p> + +<p><i>March 8.</i>—I was very bad all last night; I think I +had eaten too much meat at dinner. I am writing +my journal with a pen made out of a guinea-fowl +quill, and with ink composed of some gunpowder, preserved +milk and water, mixed up together—rather a +curious combination. My little camp bed is so small +that I asked Mahomet, my bearer, if he could make +me any sort of bed rather bigger. He said, "I make +bed Abyssinian fashion?" and I replied "Yes." He +set to work, with the help of Goubasee and Guyndem, +to make an <i>inchat algar</i>, which is their word for a +wooden bed. They cut four short forked poles and +stuck them upright in the ground; the holes they put +them into were grubbed out with the iron tent pegs. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span> +They then tied sticks on to the four posts, so as to +make a sort of hollow oblong. These sticks were +tied with plaited bark or fibre. Inside, these oblong +sticks were lashed both to the foot and head of the +bed. Of course such a bed can be made of any +height and any length. They then cut a quantity of +dry grass and laid it across the frame, and my rugs +spread over the dry grass made an excellent, comfortable, +springy couch. I should think such beds would +be very good for impromptu hospitals on a campaign, +using hay or straw instead of grass; they are +exceedingly warm and well ventilated. It took +about two hours and a half for four servants to do the +whole thing; that is, for cutting the wood and grass, +grubbing the holes, tying the sticks, and completing it.</p> + +<p>I have determined to start for home, as I get no +better here. I am indeed an unlucky sportsman, and +I always was. Perhaps it is all for the best. I do +not know what H. will say to this. I went out for a +little walk on the plain yesterday, and saw the herd +of hartebeest in the distance, but I did not feel up to +stalking them.</p> + +<p><i>March 9.</i>—I am a little better to-day, and the provisions +I sent for to Barrakee's village have arrived all +safe; so I start for Azho, a large frontier village, to-day. +I hope to catch the steamer which I believe leaves +Massowah for Suez about the 24th of March. To-day +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> +I shot a large bare-necked vulture, which was hovering +over the camp last evening, and I am writing my +journal with one of its quills, as Petros, in sweeping out +my "das," chanced to lose my guinea-fowl pen. The +vulture I thought to be a bird of ill-omen, and so +knocked him down. In the evening I went out close to +the water and shot one of the sand-grouse which came +to drink, but it was so dark I could not find the bird. +No one can have any idea how miserable it is to be +sick in the bush, away from everybody and everything—no +one to speak to but your servant, who generally +talks the vilest of negro English. However, I was +homeward-bound to-day, my servants having made +me a rough sort of palanquin, in which I intended to be +carried, as I meant to try and avoid either walking or +riding. I hoped to get fresh eggs, milk, and chickens +at the village of Azho, which might improve me; as +in reality it was good food that I wanted. I had sent +on some of my baggage with Guyndem and another +servant, and with orders to build me a "das" at Azho, +and let the people know that I was coming. I proposed +to stop half-way on the road at Maidarou.</p> + +<p><i>March 10.</i>—I had an awful journey on the previous +night. I started from the other side of the plain of +Coom-Coom-Dema at five o'clock by my little sundial, +and got to Maidarou, our old camping-place, about +9 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> Of course I could not say if this time was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span> +correct; it struck me as being a good deal later. +Taiou, one of our coolies—a man who had been with +an Englishman named Flood that had lived in the +country some time before—lost the donkey on which +my bed was strapped, just before we came into camp. +It was very dark when we came to Maidarou, and +Goubasee, who was carrying my palanquin, and who +was in front, tumbled into a hole and shot me +and my gun and books on to the ground. This was +rather unpleasant, considering the state of health I +was in, but there was no alternative but to get up and +laugh and go on. At last I saw the twinkling light of a +fire, and I soon found myself at the top of the little rocky +hill where we had camped before. But although I had +arrived at the halting-place there was no bed for me +to sleep on; so I bade them put all the skin bags I +had with me down at the end of the tent, then +I put some big stones alongside, and covered the +whole with some dry cut grass. This made a capital +bed, and I slept better than I had done for the last +two weeks, as I was completely tired and done up. +Curiously enough, the caravan that afforded me some +flour when my servants were almost starving had just +arrived, on their way back to Adiaboo with cotton from +Walkait. Zaroo, the man who behaved so kindly to +me before and gave me some bread of his own, said, +as I was so ill, he would induce some of the people of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span> +the caravan to carry me in my palanquin. I here +wrote my journal lying on my bags and straw under +the shade of two beautiful trees, a luxury one appreciates +in this hot climate. I am much better, I think, +to-day.</p> + +<p>That afternoon I started for Azho; the chief of the +caravan, by threats and persuasions, making his people +carry me. I was jolted along somehow or other; and +the journey was not eventful, with one exception. One +old gentleman declined the honour of carrying me, +and made a great row. I found myself and my palanquin +placed on the ground, with every prospect of +being left there. I said, if they would not take me +on to the next camping-place I would shoot them, and +I let off my revolver in the air, but still the old native +refused to take up the burden, and told the other +people not to carry me. I here leaped up and knocked +him backwards with "one in the eye;" he tripped up +over his load of cotton, that he had placed down beside +him, and turned a complete summersault. The +rest, seeing what had become of him, and being rather +astonished at a sick man getting well enough to do +this, picked up me and my palanquin and carried +me off. It was getting late, and the men carrying me +were going very slow, so I rode the mule belonging to +Ali the cook, for a little way, but found I should not +be able to get to Azho that night, and I stopped at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> +some water half-way. I was better, so I told the chief +I would not bother him or his people to carry me any +farther; and he came the last thing in the evening to +say good-bye to me, as they were going to start at +daybreak.</p> + +<p>Last night Ali and Mahomet had a difference of +opinion about an order I had given with regard to +some food. One of them had told a lie, and they both +accused each other of lying. I said I could not +allow this, as nothing would be done if things went +on in this sort of way; so, in the morning, after the +caravan had gone on, I said they were to settle their +dispute with two sticks. I made Goubasee cut two +long sticks, and the scene which ensued beat anything +I ever saw. They were so frightened of each other +that neither of them dared at first to hit very hard, +but at length, when either of them did so, the other +flinched most dreadfully and then returned the blow +with compound interest. When one blow was harder +than another a yell in proportion followed its infliction. +I made myself quite ill with laughing at them, +and the servants were in convulsions too. At last they +begged of me to let them off; and so I said they +ought to be satisfied with each other now.</p> + +<p><i>March 11.</i>—Started for Azho in the afternoon, riding +Ali's mule, and, after a tiring march, I came in sight +of the village at sunset. Some of the villagers, who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span> +had heard I was coming up, came out to meet me and +say "How do you do?" I found that Guyndem, whom +I had sent on, had not built a "das," as the people +would not lend him any tools for making it, or give +him any assistance. I went straight up to a cluster of +houses, and said I should pitch my tent inside the +hedge which surrounded them. The people were very +civil at first, and brought some milk. I asked them to +give me some dry grass, which they used for thatching +their houses, to put on an <i>angareb</i> which they had lent +me.<a name="FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> + I was in great pain at the time, and was very +much annoyed at their not bringing this grass, so I +sprang up with my revolver in my hand. Before +going any farther I must tell the reader that the adventure +which followed nearly cost me my life, and it +was all owing to my own foolishness. It is a great +mistake to flash your weapons if you really do not +mean to use them. I ran down among some houses +where my servants were talking trying to persuade +the people to give me some dried grass, and said if +they did not give me some I would shoot them. It +was getting rather dark, and I fired my revolver off in +the air. The women screamed, and in a minute +the whole village was up in arms. Some of the men +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> +had spears, and the others guns: they completely surrounded +me, and one seized me by the wrist and +tried to drag me off. I snatched myself out of his +grasp and backed against a straw hut. Another man +kept pointing at me with a loaded gun about a foot +off my head, calling me <i>shifter</i>—which means robber. +At this moment a very tall Abyssinian pushed his +way through the crowd and came up to me, putting +his hand over his mouth, which was to give me to understand +that I was to hold my tongue and not make +a noise. He took me by the hand and led me away, +the crowd hooting and shouting at me. One fellow ran +in front and aimed his spear at me, but the tall Abyssinian, +who seemed to be my friend, raised his spear, +and the fellow took to his heels. As is very often the +case with most of these disputes, it all ended in smoke. +I got the straw for my bed after all, and went to sleep. +They came to me and told me I must take my tent +outside their village, but I replied that I would not +move it, and that it did no harm there; so it stopped +there for the night.</p> + +<p><i>March 12.</i>—To-day I made Petros sit outside the +door of the big round Abyssinian hut that I had taken +possession of during the heat of the day and "make +bazaar," as he calls it; that is to say, he took my +handkerchiefs and beads and red cloth which I had +with me, and exchanged them for chickens and eggs, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span> +of which I was in great need. It may interest some of +my readers to know what the rate of exchange was: +one Manchester cotton pocket-handkerchief for one +chicken and six eggs. The haggling and bargaining +over these important mercantile transactions was very +amusing, but Petros seemed up to everything; in fact, +his usual occupation was that of a merchant in the +bazaar at Suez. In the afternoon the man who had +pointed the gun at me and called me a robber came to +pay me a visit. I asked why he had called me a robber. +He said that when he heard the shot fired, the people +told him I had shot his brother. He had brought me +half a large pumpkin as a sort of peace-offering. I said +to him, if he would bring me a whole one I would give +him a red pocket-handkerchief. He went away and +fetched a large pumpkin, and I gave him a red handkerchief, +and then told him I was not accustomed to +be called a robber, and that, although I was very sick, +if he would get two thick sticks I would go outside +the village with him and give him an excellent +thrashing. My friend sneaked off at this, and another +Abyssinian, who was standing by, seemed much +amused. I had not got rid of the horrid complaint +that troubled me, and I was afraid that dysentery had +set in in earnest. I sent back a coolie from here to +H., with a letter to say that I had really started for +the coast. I heard no more of him till I got to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> +England; the account of the sport he had I give +hereafter.</p> + +<p>Towards the evening I started for Adikai, a village +we had camped in before. The man who had accused +me of shooting his brother and called me a +robber came to say good-bye to me, and we parted +the best of friends. I tried to find out who the tall +Abyssinian was who had helped me out of the +scrape and had taken me by the hand and led me +through the crowd, but he had disappeared, and no +one knew who or where he was; I believe he was +a king's soldier who was stationed here to collect +the customs. I had an easy march to Adikai, and +when I got to the village my servants told me that +Zaroo, my old friend the chief of the caravan, who +had made his people carry my palanquin, lived close +by. Shortly afterwards he came to see me, and +brought me some Dargousa beer, which had been +kept for some time and which was pretty good. I +was kept awake half the night by the barking of the +village curs: at last, at my entreaties, some ballagas +turned out and tried to stop them, but it was of no +use. A crying baby in a hut close by also enlivened +the night by its yells; so I sent to the mother of +the child and told her to give it some milk, which +seemed to quiet it.</p> + +<p><i>March 13.</i>—The people of this village were much +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> +more civil to me, and one of two men who had behaved +very well at Azho, and who had come up with me, +sent off to a village close by and got me twelve eggs. +The Abyssinians, curiously enough, do not care for +eggs; they sometimes make a sort of curry of them +with red pepper. After this man brought me the +eggs, which was early in the morning, he went on to +Adiaboo, where it was market-day. Zaroo came to +me this morning, and I talked with him over my +journey to the coast, as he knew the road very well. +He told me he was acquainted with a much nearer +way to Koudoofellassie than that I had come by, and I +asked him if he would come with me to show it: at +first he said he would, and then he asked me what +I would give him. I only had five dollars with me, +so it was of very little use offering him that. I said I +would give him a revolver; but he told me this would +be of no use to him. What he really wanted was one +of my muzzle-loading pistols, of which I had a pair +of very good ones, which I had bought of Rigby in +St. James's Street, and which I particularly did not +want to part with. After haggling with him a long +time I was quite disappointed, as he had at first assured +me he did not want anything for showing me the +way. I then told him I would trust to myself and +go back the same way I had come, and thanked +him for his former kindness. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span></p> + +<p>I sent on the donkeys with the tent to Maihumloo, a +little river where we had camped before, at the end of +the Sememmar Plain, meaning to go on in the afternoon. +I tried at this village to get two men to carry +some of my things, but they asked a great deal +too much, and so we could not come to terms. On +my way to Adiaboo, Goubasee stopped an old man, +and his wife and daughter, and asked the old gentleman +if he would help to carry the load Goubasee +had with him. The old patriarch asked where we +were going to; Goubasee replied Sememmar, and that +he would get a dollar if he carried the load; upon +which, without a moment's hesitation, notwithstanding +the entreaties of his wife and daughter, he picked up +the load and carried it along. His daughter then +began to cry, and said she would not leave him, so +they both joined our little party. This was a great +piece of luck for me, as it relieved Goubasee of a large +part of his load.</p> + +<p>The market was just over as I passed through +Adiaboo. I tried to find some man to guide me +the short way of which Zaroo had told me, but +none of them would go, as they said it was a bad +road, the stages were long, and there was very +little water. While I was talking to these people a +young man came up and said that he had letters +for Rass Mayo, which was the name I went by in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> +Abyssinia; upon which my servants told him he was +to give them to me immediately. This was the man +that the head of the Mahomedan village had sent off +with my letters. He had sent them by the steamer +and had brought me back letters from home. I was +delighted to get them, and for the rest of my march +across the large plain which lies between Adiaboo +and Sememmar I occupied myself in reading the good +news from home. I had miscalculated the distance +from Adiaboo to Maihumloo; it was a great deal too +far, and we had started late, having been delayed in +the market-place. I was getting more and more exhausted, +and it was rapidly becoming dark. Just as +night closed in a thunder-storm came on, Goubasee, +who had been our guide, completely lost his way, and I +was dreadfully ill and weary, so we had to stop in the +middle of the jungle. I managed with great difficulty +to light a fire, and make a little soup out of +Liebig's extract of meat. The poor girl that had +accompanied her father, who was carrying some of +my baggage, had sprained her ankle, or sustained +a similar injury, and it was a miserable sight to see +her sitting shivering over the fire and crying piteously +with pain. I also suffered very much from illness +all night.</p> + +<p><i>March 14.</i>—At last morning came, and I determined +to move on to Maihumloo the first thing, in hopes +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> +of finding the donkeys with the tent and some food. +Some travellers came by, whom my servants rushed +at and despoiled of some of the bread they had with +them; thus at any rate my retinue ate some breakfast. +I stopped at some houses, which were only a very +short way from the place where we had lain out for +the night, but during and after the thunder-storm it +had been so dark that we could not see around us. +The inhabitants of these huts gave me some eggs, +which provided material for my breakfast. When I +got to Maihumloo there was no sign of either tent or +donkeys, which had gone on before us, so I stayed in +the dry bed of a watercourse that was very pleasantly +shaded over. I succeeded in making a fire and +cooking my eggs for breakfast, and sent Goubasee off +to look for the donkeys. He seemed to think that +they had gone on in front of us to the village of +Sememmar, so he went up there to look for them, and +returned without having found them; but shortly +afterwards they all appeared. Hadji Mahomet, who +had charge of them, had taken good care not to +sleep out in the jungle like ourselves, but had halted +in a village not far off and stayed there for the +night. I sent them on, in the afternoon, to Sememmar, +and from thence they were to go on to Zadawalka.</p> + +<p>After the heat of the day, and when I had rested +myself by lying in the shade, I started after the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> +tent and donkeys. I called at the house of the +chicker of the village of Sememmar, told him who I +was, and said that I wanted some chickens and eggs; +he was very civil, and gave them to me at once +without any palaver. I asked him if he knew of any +news in the country, and I was told that they had +heard that Mimleck, the king of Shoa, with whom +the king of Abyssinia was at war, had fought and +beaten Johannes, the king: I heard afterwards there +was no truth in this. Again I travelled on, and, after +having passed the place where the market of Sememmar +is held, I came upon Hadji Mahomet and the +donkeys, with the tent pitched and everything ready. +He told me it would be impossible to go on to Zadawalka +that day, so I resolved to stop here, as +everything was comfortable and there was plenty to +eat. Our encampment was just below a pretty little +Abyssinian church, which was surrounded by large +Qualqual trees. Most of the churches here are built +in little groves of these queer-shaped trees.</p> + +<p><i>March 15.</i>—I went to bed shortly after I got into +camp last night, and this morning I found myself +better, yet still very ill. I think I must have lost at +least a stone in weight, having become dreadfully thin. +It was very pleasant to wake up and find oneself in a +comfortable little camp-bed, instead of being chilled +and cold lying by the half-consumed sticks of a small +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> +camp fire, my experience of the previous day. Two +donkeys were completely worn out, so the servants +recommended me to sell them here for what I could +get. Some of the villagers standing near were informed +that I had donkeys for sale; we had a short bargain +over the matter, and at last the two went for four +dollars. My fortune, that was to last me until I got +to Massowah, where 100<i>l.</i> was awaiting me, now consisted +of seven dollars, and, as my readers will see +later, I experienced great inconvenience in consequence +of not having more money with me.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, having first started the remaining +donkeys in front, I went up to the village of Zadawalka. +It was a long march, but very pleasant and +cool, the day being cloudy, and the country we were +travelling through furnished a succession of beautiful +scenes. There was a heavy thunder-shower in the +middle of the day, which soaked us through. On the +way I had a shot with my Express at a jackal which +crossed the path, but I could not succeed in hitting so +small an animal with a bullet. Just after the rain +had ceased, we crossed a small stream; Goubasee, +who was in front of me, suddenly stopped, and I saw +swimming slowly up the little river two fine geese. +I jumped off my mule, got my 16-bore gun, fired, +and killed the gander. A cartridge which had some +time previously stuck in one of the barrels of my +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span> +gun obliged me to load again, and after my first +shot the goose only flew a short way up the river and +dropped, when I bagged her too. These were two +lucky shots, as they provided me with fresh meat, of +which I stood in great need. Not long before I arrived +at the village of Zadawalka I saw five enormous +hornbills feeding in a field close to the path. They +are called in Abyssinia Aba Gouma. They were an +unusual sight stalking about in different directions, +and picking up what insects and beetles they could +find.</p> + +<p>When I got to Zadawalka I rode up at once to the +Shum's house. I went in and introduced myself, and +said I wanted bread and lodging for our party that +night. By way of putting ourselves on a pleasant +footing with our new hosts, my followers, who I am +sorry to say had now become rather a rough set, +seeing a jar of beer standing close by, immediately +seized it, handed it round, and the thirsty souls +swallowed the beverage almost before the rightful +owner had time to look about. The people of the +house assured me I could not stop there that night, +but said they would provide me with a house a +little way off. I made them swear by the king's +death, Johannesee Mut, which is the form of oath +in Abyssinia, that they would do what they promised. +The donkeys and tent did not appear, so I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span> +had to sleep in an Abyssinian hut, where I could +see the moon shining through the roof, and insects +and creeping things paid me unwelcome visits. The +door of this hut was so low that entrance had to be +effected on the hands and knees. Notwithstanding +all these little inconveniences, I managed to sleep +pretty well, after a good dinner made of the two +geese's livers, which were both large and excellent, and +brought to mind <i>pâté de foie gras</i>—without truffles.</p> + +<p><i>March 16.</i>—This morning I was not troubled with +the very violent pain which I usually experienced, +and altogether I felt in better condition. I asked the +chief of the village if he could give me two coolies to +guide our party as far as Gundet, as I proposed +adopting a new and shorter route, which would save a +day's march. He at length found two men, who for +two dollars each were to go with me; one dollar each +I had to pay before they started, and the balance was +to be given them on arrival. The villagers brought +up plenty of fresh eggs for breakfast—they were the +only things which really seemed to agree with me. +A great crowd of Abyssinians watched me as I +got up in the morning and performed my toilet: +what seemed to excite their attention most was the +operation of washing my teeth with a tooth-brush +and some charcoal. They could not make out what +I could possibly be doing, as their mode of cleaning +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span> +their teeth is by chewing a stick and rubbing their +grinders with the frayed end. About eleven o'clock I +started for Adavartee. This village is only one day's +march from Adowa; in fact, from Adavartee you +can see the peculiarly-shaped conical-pointed hill +which marks the neighbourhood of the Abyssinian +capital. Before reaching Adavartee I stopped at a +house on the road which was tenanted by very civil +people, who brought my servants beer to drink. Petros +cooked some eggs and bacon for my lunch, after +which we rested a little while and then went on. We +were unable to reach Adavartee at all, but were +obliged to stop at a village called Adoqual. The +donkeys, with the tent, came up just before it was +dark, and, instead of my having to sleep in the village, +I moved to the tent outside, and slept comfortably +there. The geese were roasted for dinner, and proved +capital food. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +SELF-HELP—SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS—LAID-UP AGAIN—A RÉUNION—HOSPITALITY—AN +OLD FRIEND—AN ALARM—ORDER OF BATTLE—A +FIELD DAY—"KIND ENQUIRIES"—OLIVES AND OIL—PURCHASE +OF A CLUB—CATTLE PLAGUE—AN INJUDICIOUS DINNER—MY +ILLNESS INCREASES—I HAVE TO BE CARRIED—LUXURY OF A +WASH—I BUILD A HOUSE—THE SEA—CIVILIZATION AGAIN. +</p> + +<p><i>March 17.</i>—I occupied myself this morning in +cleaning up my guns and pistols, which had not been +looked at for the last three or four days. This was a +long, tiring affair, but I recommend all who are +similarly circumstanced to look to their fire-arms +themselves, unless they have a trustworthy European +servant with them, as natives always manage to do +everything contrariwise, and spoil the very best +weapons. I was now much better in health, but +still I suffered from bad diarrhœa. I started for +Gundet late in the afternoon; the consequence being +that, as it was a long march, we lost our way. +Petros and Guyndem, whom I had sent up to some +villages to try to get eggs or chickens for my dinner +that night, happened to lose us completely, as we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> +were crossing the valley of the Mareb through a +thick jungle. We crossed the dry bed of the river near +which, only much lower down, we had previously encamped; +darkness came on as we pushed through the +jungle, and we were overtaken by a thunder-storm in +the same way we had been before, and we were compelled +to halt, as it had become pitch dark. We +succeeded in lighting a fire, but I had literally nothing +to eat, as Petros was carrying the few provisions of +which I was possessed; the only thing in the shape of +food that I had was a bag of corn for my mule. I +made Goubasee roast some corn in the camp fire; +this he picked out of the ashes, and it constituted my +dinner. These hardships would have been bad enough +to bear if I had been well, but in my weak state of +health they were very trying. I was terribly ill all +night, and very cold, as I had nothing to cover me but +a cotton shama which I had bought for a dollar at the +village of Zadawalka, and, in the morning, I was +scarcely able to move. Another night like this would, +I think, have finished me, and my tale would have +been unwritten.</p> + +<p><i>March 18.</i>—When daylight dawned my servants +went up to some houses, which, although close by, in +the darkness we had not been able to see. Petros and +Guyndem appeared the first thing this morning, having +passed the night in the valley of the Mareb, in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span> +jungle; Petros assured me he slept very little, as he +was afraid the lions would eat him. The natives, who +had heard I was ill, very kindly brought some milk +and eggs. We were close to a village called Aila +Mareb, and I determined, after about an hour or so, +to push on to Gundet, so as to complete the march +that I had intended to do the day before. I was so +bad I could scarcely sit on my mule, but at length we +arrived at Gundet. I lay here under a tree for most +of the day, completely exhausted and worn out, and +I managed to get a little sleep. During most of the +day the tree which I was under was surrounded by +great numbers of cattle, which seemed to think I +was occupying their favourite resting-place: there was +water close by. They were remarkably fine beasts +for this part of the world, and I should think at least +a thousand head passed by the place where I was +lying. A little short Abyssinian came and squatted +down close by me; he seemed inclined to converse, +so I sent for Petros, and we held a long conversation +on different subjects, which ended by my inducing +him to go for some preparation which is called Shirou, +and is made from a bean pounded up with red pepper. +The Abyssinians eat this as a sort of relish with their +bread or meat. I do not suppose it was the best thing +I could have eaten, but still I had a fancy for it, as +in illness one often has for some questionable dainty. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span></p> + +<p>While I was lying under the tree a rather nicely-dressed +Abyssinian came up, followed by a couple of +loaded mules and two servants. Petros rushed up to +him and embraced him. I asked who he was, and +Petros replied, "It is my brother, whom I have not +seen for many years." I believe, in reality, it was his +step-brother. He was a merchant, who had come +from the Shoa country, and was going down to +Massowah with musk and gold.</p> + +<p>Since writing the above there has taken place in +this very spot, Gundet, a very severe battle between +the Egyptians and Abyssinians, and I cannot help +thinking that it was owing to the nature and conformation +of the ground that the forces of Egypt, +2000 in number, were so completely overwhelmed +and destroyed by their enemies. Before reaching +Gundet, that is to say, on the road from Massowah, +the country is all flat table-land, when suddenly the +ground drops, and Gundet lies in a narrow valley, +with high cliffs on each side of it. An army marching +right down into this defile would easily be surrounded, +and its retreat cut off. Probably the Abyssinians +let the Egyptians descend the steep hill, and +then encountered them, when the only thing remaining +for the invaders to do was to fight it out to the +last. But it seems incredible to me that a force of +2000 should march right into the jaws of an enemy +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> +without seemingly having the least intimation of their +being near. The Abyssinians are stated to have +mustered 30,000 strong, and I am sure my old friend +Kirkham would have taken every advantage of the +locality and the ground. The hatred of the Abyssinians +to the Turk, as they call the Egyptians, was in +this case very well exemplified, as nearly every one +of the latter was killed, and among them Arrekel Bey, +whose loss, as a kind friend, I very much deplore and +lament, for nobody could have been more civil and +courteous than he was when we were at Massowah.</p> + +<p>I cannot help here quoting a letter of mine, dated +May 7th, 1875, published in the 'Pall Mall Gazette' +shortly after my arrival in England. At the end of +the letter I state what I thought would happen if +Egyptians and Abyssinians came in conflict in the +country of the latter, and it turns out my prognostication +has not been falsified by events:—</p> + +<p class="p2"> +"Having only just returned to England from travelling +in Abyssinia, I happened to see a letter copied +from the 'Cologne Gazette,' and commented on in +your paper of the 13th of April last. The correspondent +of the 'Cologne Gazette' must be misinformed, +I think, on some of the subjects he writes +about. First, the writer designates King Johannes, +the king of Abyssinia, 'as but a poor actor by the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span> +side of a real hero,' i.e., comparing him with Theodore, +the late king. King Johannes has totally subjugated +his country and the rebels that were in it. The people +cultivate their land in peace, and tranquillity prevails. +As for his subjects being in a state of chronic rebellion, +it is not the case; let any one who doubts this +travel through the country, and judge for himself. +Secondly, the 'Cologne Gazette' says, with regard to +Colonel Kirkham, 'that all his attempts to improve +the country have failed.' Now, as every one knows, +with nothing, nothing can be done. Colonel Kirkham +was living with me for a month, and has often told +me the first thing to be done in Abyssinia is to make +and improve the roads. He has often tried to persuade +King Johannes to do this, but the king will not +spend a farthing and keeps his money hoarded up. +Thirdly, with regard to the missionaries at Gindar, +it is so far true that General Kirkham, to whom +Gindar has been given by the king, allowed the missionaries +to build a house there. I never heard anything +of the Abyssinians threatening to kill the missionaries +and burn their houses. I passed through +Gindar myself on the 25th of March last; the missionaries' +house was standing still, but the missionaries had +left, one of their number having died of fever after the +rains, so they moved to a healthier place. Fourthly, +the article now ends by saying that 'a struggle of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span> +undisciplined and badly-armed Abyssinians with +Egyptian troops would be hopeless.' Now, the Egyptians +would have to fight through mountain passes +and hills—a warfare well suited to Abyssinian tactics, +and not one that Egyptian troops would either appreciate +or well understand. The Abyssinians are just +as well armed as the Afghans were when we fought +against them on the frontiers of India. The name of +the Turk is hated in Abyssinia, and used as an +epithet of opprobrium."</p> + +<p class="p2">In the afternoon I started on the road to Adgousmou, +and climbed the abruptly steep hill at +the top of which, if my readers remember, Borum +Braswouldeselassie took leave of us. The table-land +on which I found myself is called Serai, and +is celebrated for its fertility. I travelled on, and +stopped by some water, a little way beyond the +village of Adwahla. The servants were rather annoyed +at stopping away from the village, as there +was not any shelter near, and I had only just erected +the tent when a fearful thunder-storm came down on +us; luckily, my bed and things were inside, and so +everything was all dry, but the wretched servants got +wet through and through, and it was with great +difficulty that Ali kindled a fire with cattle-dung for +fuel, as no sticks or wood could be got anywhere near. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span></p> + +<p><i>March 19.</i>—This morning Goubasee was laid up with +a bad leg, which I thought proceeded from rheumatism +combined with hard work. I hoped he would not +break down altogether, as he was an excellent servant, +and he had been of the greatest use to me. I sent +Guyndem, my other gun-bearer, up to the neighbouring +village, and some villagers very kindly brought +brown bread and milk, for myself and my followers. +This was very hospitable of them, as, on most occasions, +villagers took no notice of messages brought by +one's Abyssinian servants, and it was very often with +great difficulty we got provisions even by applying in +person. To-day several caravans passed the camp on +their way down to the coast. These caravans are just +beginning to travel; but it is during the rains that +most of them go through the country, so as to arrive +at Massowah in June or July, at the time it is +hottest on the coast, and when most of the business +is transacted.</p> + +<p>I started after breakfast for Koudoofellassie, and +arrived at nightfall at the door of Borum Bras.'s +house; I found himself and household all at dinner. +This was a time of fasting with the Abyssinians, when +they do not eat during the day, but only after sunset. +I had sent on word by a native, who said he was going +to Koudoofellassie, to tell Borum Bras. that I was +coming, but evidently the man had not delivered the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span> +message, and I was not in the least expected. But it +seemed that I was no unwelcome guest, for directly +one of the servants saw me he went in and told Borum +Bras. I had arrived. I was led in by the hand, and +was truly glad to see this Abyssinian chief, as he had +been very kind and hospitable to us on our way to +the Tackazzee, and I hoped he might help me to get +to the coast. After they had finished their dinner, he +sent away his household, and had a fire lighted for me +inside the hut. I was wet through, cold as well as +ill, and was very glad of the warmth. I told Borum +Bras. all that happened, how unlucky I had been, and +that now I was on my way home on account of illness. +He was exceedingly civil and kind, and asked what he +could prepare for me for my dinner. Out of beans +his wife made me a sort of cake, which was very good, +and he also gave me some "tej." My donkeys, with +the tent, etc., came up later, but I resolved to sleep in +the hut in which I was. I accordingly turned in, but +it was of no use trying to get any rest, as the hut in +which I reposed was, as a rule, not only used as a +dining-room but also as a stable, and the horses +munching their food during the night kept me awake. +Sundry small animals of the insect tribe seemed to +like the taste of the blood of a white man; it might +have been a change for them; it certainly was a +change for me, and, in my already weak state, unbearable; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span> +so, about one o'clock in the morning, I made my +servants get up and pitch my tent, and there I went +to bed, and slept well the rest of the night.</p> + +<p><i>March 20.</i>—This morning Borum Bras. got me a +messenger, and I sent down letters to the French +Consul, as well as to the Governor of Massowah, +telling the latter that I was ill, very likely to be a day +or two late for the steamer, and begging of him to +keep the boat waiting for me, if possible. Whilst I +was taking my breakfast, and whilst Borum Bras. was +talking to me and inquiring after my general health, +there was suddenly a shout, the chief started up and +rushed off to his house close by. All the people of the +town ran to their houses and armed themselves, and +the women stood on the tops of the houses screeching +their peculiar cry to call out the men. The cause of the +commotion was that a robber, who lived near this district, +had attacked an outlying village, and had carried +off some cows and killed a man. All the inhabitants +turned out and formed themselves in battle array in +two lines outside the town. The mode in which Abyssinians +go to fight is rather a curious one: the men +that are lucky enough to possess guns are placed in +the front rank in one long line, and behind them are +those that have only spears and shields—this line +is generally three or four deep. I caused my mule to +be saddled, took my gun, and rode out to see if there +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span> +was any chance of a fight taking place. It was very +amusing to see a little fellow strutting up and down +opposite this armed rabble and haranguing them, +calling upon them to fight well and to follow Borum +Bras. their chief; telling them, in so many words, they +were the bravest of the brave, and there were no +heroes in the world like them. Then something like a +word of command was given, and the whole of the men +moved forward a little, shouting and yelling, then they +squatted down again. I asked if there was any chance +of seeing this robber, or of his coming here. An old +Mahomedan, who seemed wiser than the rest, informed +me that there was not the slightest likelihood of his +coming to attack Koudoofellassie, as the people were +much too numerous. I went back to camp and got +my things packed up, as I intended to march to +Terramnee that day.</p> + +<p>When all was ready I started off, and found that +the army of Koudoofellassie had moved some little +way outside the town. Borum Bras. and his attendants, +on horseback, might be seen in the distance +going through a variety of extraordinary evolutions, +galloping hither and thither, making a pretence of +spearing people. When I came up to the crowd I +found the women of the village were going about +with large jars of water to quench the thirst of their +husbands and relatives, and some of them had brought +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span> +out food; they were evidently going to make a day +of it. I took leave of Borum Bras. with much regret; +he rode a little way on the road with me, and then +we parted. I arrived at Terramnee shortly before +sunset, sent for Tuckloo, a former acquaintance of +mine and the chicker of the village, and asked for +some eggs for my dinner. He brought me a few +rotten eggs, which I had much pleasure in smashing +on the stones before him to prove their condition; +he then went back and obtained some fresh ones. I +made myself an omelette; and my donkeys, with the +bedding, etc., having come up, I had my tent pitched +a little distance outside the village.</p> + +<p><i>March 21.</i>—This morning I received a visit from +one of Borum Bras.'s servants, whom he had started +off very early to inquire after me and see how I was +getting on. This was very kind of him; and this man +also ordered the chicker to give me what eggs, etc., +I wanted, and then left the village. After he had +gone, this same chicker seemed to think it quite +unnecessary to take any notice of me, and I received +no provisions; so, as a flock of goats was passing +by my tent, I took the liberty of catching a kid, +tender and young, and handed it over to Ali to +cook, who soon cut its throat, and kid cutlets were +very shortly frying in the pan for my breakfast. I had +hardly eaten the last of them when the owner of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span> +goats came up and made a great noise, saying he +must be paid. I told him I had not the slightest intention +of paying him anything, as he had been ordered +to supply me with food, and a young kid was very +little out of a large flock. Eventually the affair was +settled, and it was agreed the villagers should bear +the loss of the kid between them. The meat was a +great change for me, as I had been living mostly on +eggs and chickens for the last week. I started about +mid-day for Deevaroua. It was very hot crossing the +plain which lay between this village and Terramnee. +I went past Deevaroua and halted for a short time +below it, under the shade of a large tree that grew +by the bank of the Mareb, which is here quite a little +stream. I tried to get two natives to carry some of my +things down to Massowah, but they refused to do so +unless they were paid in advance. I assured them I +had plenty money at Massowah, but they would not +believe me, and I had not enough coin with me to pay +them.</p> + +<p>I do not think I was ever so much annoyed in my +life as I was on this occasion with these two men. I +felt inclined to give them both a thrashing; but it is +very lucky I restrained my temper as, otherwise, it is +very likely I should have had the whole village down +upon me, and perhaps would not have got so well out +of it as I did out of my last scrape. One certainly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span> +does feel very helpless without money, no matter +where one finds oneself, and this fact, combined with +my prostrate condition (of which, no doubt, these +men knew as well as I did), rendered me incapable of +much exertion. So I had to make up my mind to +get my already rather weary servants to carry the +things; and the proverb, "Money makes the mare +to go," came bitterly home to me.</p> + +<p>After resting myself, I rode towards the village of +Chickut, which was, my readers will remember, the +scene of my night march on our way to the Tackazzee. +The country through which I passed presented a +beautiful appearance—one continual grove of wild +olive-trees, and great Qualquals dotted here and there. +This part was not at all cultivated, yet I should +think that these olives, if properly trained and cared-for, +would make a valuable property; but the natives +of Abyssinia have no idea of making oil from the +berries. This place is only four days from the coast, +and transport of the oil, when made, would not be very +expensive. I was very ill all the day, and in the afternoon +was so bad that I had to get off my mule and +rest under a tree. When I arrived at Chickut I pitched +my tent close to a little Coptic church. The village is +built on a high hill, and the houses are not like those +in the other part of Abyssinia through which I had +been travelling; they were flat-roofed, and the walls +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span> +were built with stones, whereas the ordinary form of +huts was a round wall with an extinguisher-shaped +roof. It was very cold here, and directly the tent +was pitched and my bed made ready I turned into it, +and caused my dinner to be brought to me as I lay +between the blankets. I find this entry in my journal: +"I am not worse, but still very ill. Thank God, I am +getting near the end of this awful journey! The +chicker here was very kind, and gave my servants +abundance of bread for themselves and a chicken for +me."</p> + +<p><i>March 22</i>: <i>Chickut.</i>—The people here are all busy +putting a roof on the little Coptic church, close by +which I had encamped, and the work is done amidst +much chattering and talking. I heard from some merchants +yesterday that Arrekel Bey, the Governor, +had come back to Massowah; so I hope, if this is +true, he will keep the steamer for me if I am late. +I sent on some of my servants to Beatmohar, K.'s +house, to-day, to let his boy Waldemariam know +that I was coming, so as to make everything ready +for me. Hadji Mahomet was behind with the rest of +my donkeys, and I was afraid they would not arrive +at Massowah in time to catch the steamer. I started +in the afternoon and climbed the steep hill which +lies between Chickut and the table-land of Asmarra. +It was a lovely view as we ascended, and looked +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span> +even more charming in the daytime than it had +looked in the light of a tropical moon, the condition +under which we last saw it. I passed by Sellaadarou, +the place where we had encamped, and saw the remaining +marks of the two large bonfires we had made. +After leaving this place I met some natives on the +road; one of them was carrying in his hand a club +made of the wild olive wood: it was a beautifully-shaped +weapon, and I induced him, after great persuasion, +to sell it to me for a dollar. He would not +hear of parting with it at first, but some of his companions +told him he was a great fool not to sell it, +as he could get many others, and a dollar was a good +price for the stick.</p> + +<p>Travelling on, I found myself on the large plain +of Asmarra. Notwithstanding the precautions the +people had taken the cattle disease had got among +their beasts, and I saw several lying down, stretched +out, dying by the side of the pools. The wind +blew cold as I crossed the plain, and I wrapped +the cotton shama that I had tightly round me. +We were a small and wretched-looking party, as +we wound our way slowly across this bare tableland; +the hardships and long journeys had told +pretty severely upon all of us. I thought the plain +would never cease, and K.'s little house, with the +extinguisher-shaped roof, rose up in the distance, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span> +but seemed to get farther from me. To my astonishment, +among some stunted bushes I saw two gazelles +grazing. I alighted and successfully stalked one, but +missed him as he bounded away. I was too weak +and ill for shooting, so I mounted my mule again +and soon found myself under the welcome shelter +of K.'s little house. Waldemariam had got everything +ready for me, and some fresh baked bread, +which was a great luxury. We had left a box of +provisions behind here, which I immediately broke +into, and to my great joy I found two bottles of +claret and other provisions which we had brought up +here. I made my dinner of fresh bread, fried sardines, +and a bottle of claret—just about the very worst +diet I could have taken under the circumstances; +the consequence being that I was terribly ill all +night.</p> + +<p><i>March 23.</i>—About four in the morning I heard a +cry outside in the village, and then a wailing and +lamentation, mixed up with donkeys braying and +cocks crowing. It transpired that an old man, who +had been ill for some time, had just died. This +was an unpleasant thing to happen, and was not +calculated to raise my spirits under the circumstances +in which I was placed. Later in the morning a +brother of Naib Abdul Kerim came to see me. The +Naib was the man who brought us up here, and who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span> +arranged for the transport of our luggage on bullocks +and mules. His brother asked me if he could be of +any use, as he had heard I was ill; it was very +kind of him, and he proved of great service. I told +him that I should be very much obliged if he could +get me men from the village to carry me down to +the coast, for I was now becoming so extremely weak +that I really thought another two days' riding would +have polished me off. Accordingly he went into the +village and obtained twelve or fourteen men. I borrowed +a large angareb from one of the villagers, +and caused them to fix two long poles to it, so that it +could be carried on men's shoulders. I had no money +with me, but luckily K. had left behind a sum of +money, and I took the liberty of borrowing some +dollars from him to pay the coolies, as these people +always insist upon half the agreed sum being paid in +advance. I sent forward letters to the French Consul +and the Governor, again asking them, in case I should +be late, to keep the steamer waiting for me.</p> + +<p>On Saturday, about four o'clock in the morning, I +was carried very comfortably down to Maihenzee, our +old camping-place, where we had passed such a wet +night on our way up here; I now passed a comfortable +night and felt better. Naib Abdul Kerim's +brother brought some coffee with him, of which he +gave me a portion, which I think improved me. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span></p> + +<p>The manner of making coffee is rather peculiar, +and merits description. When on the march, and +travelling in Abyssinia, the natives carry a bag of +unroasted berries; taking a few of the grains out of +the bag, they put them on a little mat, and then +scrape some hot wood-ashes out of the fire; these +they mix with the coffee-grains, and then shaking +the mat up and down, much in the same way as one +sees a groom shaking a sieve of oats to get the dust +from them, the coffee becomes gradually roasted. I +believe that they know when it is sufficiently done +by the smell. Then the coffee is put between two +stones and ground to powder; or, if they happen to +have a small pestle and mortar, that is used. The +ground coffee is then put into a little earthenware +vase—one can hardly call it a jar as it has a long +neck—water is poured into the vessel, which is put to +boil on the fire. When sufficiently heated, some +fibre is crammed in the mouth of it to prevent the +coffee-grounds from coming out into the cup; then +some of those little Turkish cups are produced, and +the coffee poured out and drunk. Drinking coffee in +these regions is quite a little ceremony, and is generally +the time when the most important affairs are +discussed, and compliments are exchanged. I may +as well say that some of the best coffee I have ever +tasted was made in the way described. Why is it so +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span> +hard to get good coffee in England? One great +secret, I am sure, is that every time it is made the +berries ought to be fresh roasted and fresh ground.</p> + +<p><i>March 24.</i>—This morning I enjoyed the luxury of +a really good wash in hot water, in my little tin basin, +having found some soap in K.'s house. I had been +without soap for several days, and I was disgusted to +find that specimens of the entomology which infests +Abyssinians and their houses had transferred their +attentions to myself. I hope that none of my readers +will ever have to experience, especially in a hot country, +the total inability of washing oneself properly.</p> + +<p>If there is one thing that is pleasant, and I may say +almost a luxury, it is the power of having a really good +wash. When one is leading a rough life, one misses +the morning tub of civilized life. Even on reaching +the Tackazzee, the waters of the river looked inviting +for a swim; an indulgence in this pastime would be +made in the face of the fact of there being a chance, +and indeed a very good one, of being snapped up by +a crocodile, which would have been an unpleasant +and abrupt termination to a trip undertaken from +motives of pleasure and sport. The only place where +bathing was practicable was the shallow ford, and +during most of the day our native servants might +have been seen paddling and splashing about in the +shallow water, much to their delight and amusement. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span> +I am sure it did them all a great deal of good, Abyssinians, +as a rule, not being fond of water applied +externally. The not very delicious odour experienced +on going amongst them is a sufficient guarantee of +this statement.</p> + +<p>Whilst I was sitting outside my tent an Armenian +merchant, who, my servants told me, went by the +name of Bogos, passed by with several mule loads of +ivory; he had come from the Shoa country, and he +was one of the best-looking men whom I had ever +seen; very fair, at least in comparison with Abyssinians, +and dressed in the costume of the country. +He informed me that the steamer was expected to-day, +which was its proper day; and I hoped to arrive +in time for it, as, if I could stand the journey, I should +be at Massowah to-morrow. I had found an old +copy of Milton in K.'s house, and so I passed the +morning in reading 'Comus,' which I enjoyed very +much.</p> + +<p>I left Maihenzee about mid-day. It was very +curious to observe the change in the vegetation at +the top of the pass; the coast rains had ceased on +the side nearest Massowah, and everything on that +side was green and beautiful, whilst in the part I had +just traversed the ground was completely dried up, +and bushes and trees were bare. I stopped at +Mehdet and procured something to eat, then I travelled +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span> +on and got to Gindar about 8 <span class="s08">P.M.</span>, feeling very tired +and ill, although the men had carried me well. I sent +for Aristides, the Greek, who was still here building a +house. He was very glad to see me, and he told me +in broken French that I looked very ill, and that he +would accompany me next day into Massowah. +K., to whom Gindar belongs, had presented me +with some land—the whole side of a mountain, and +a small hill in the valley; and I engaged Aristides +to build me a small house, so if I should go to Abyssinia +again I shall have a place to live in. In +exchange for this land which K. gave me, I promised +to send him out a box-full of the seeds of all our +English vegetables.</p> + +<p><i>March 25</i>: <i>Gindar.</i>—This little valley is looking +very beautiful, all the vegetation green and sprouting, +and the grass up to one's knees; the whole air is +alive with bees and insects in quest of honey from +the flowers.</p> + +<p>How changed was everything since the last time I +was here! In my former visits I was full of hopeful +expectation, looking forward to pleasant adventures +and good sport; and now I was returning completely +knocked down by illness, and counting the hours +which would elapse before my arrival at the coast. +The scene was even brighter and more glorious than +when I had left it; but, alas! I scarcely possessed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span> +the power to appreciate it, and certainly I could +not enjoy it. Aristides breakfasted with me this +morning, and I killed a sheep and presented him with +the meat. He promised me that, after I had left the +country, he would look after things at Gindar. I +proposed that he should take the eggs from the +guinea-fowl, which abound here, and put them under +hens, so as to bring them up tame; as, if they were +fattened and kept in a civilised state, they would be +excellent eating. I should also like to try the experiment +of introducing rabbits, which I am sure +would do very well, yet perhaps too well, so as to eat +up every green thing.</p> + +<p>I started in the afternoon for Massowah, having +arranged that I should be carried to a place called +Maital, on a different road from that which we had +come by, but the usual one for merchants. I reached +Maital about dark, halted for an hour, obtained something +to eat, and slept for awhile; then I lay on +my angareb, and I was carried off again all through +the night. I thought the darkness would never come +to an end, and, towards morning, quite exhausted, +notwithstanding the jolting of the angareb, I fell +asleep, and woke up just at dawn: we were +close to the village of Moncullu. The cocks were +crowing, and some of the people might be seen +moving about. When we arrived here my coolies +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span> +actually began running along with me, and singing +and laughing. These men had been marching for +more than fourteen hours, and during that time had +eaten scarcely anything at all! As I approached +Massowah I saw in the distance a steamer lying in +the harbour; this was indeed a great joy to me, as +now I should speedily get home. I was carried into +Massowah more dead than alive. I went first to +the Divan, and found that Arrekel Bey was away, but +the acting governor knew I was coming, and put +me into some rooms over the telegraph office. M. de +Sarzec, the French Consul, came to see me, after I +had eaten some breakfast; he was very civil and kind, +but he said it was very lucky I had arrived at the time +that I did as the steamer was a day late, and, in the +absence of the Governor, the man who was acting for +him would not have dared to keep the boat waiting. +I dined in the evening with the French Company, a +mercantile house of which M. de Lanfrey is the +manager. They keep all kinds of stores, such as +beads, cotton cloth, silk, sugar, etc., which are sold to +the Abyssinian merchants, who take them up the +country. The dinner was very pleasant, and it was +agreeable to have the opportunity of talking to white +men again, after having led the life of a savage for +some little time.</p> + +<p>Before finishing the account of my journey up the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span> +Red Sea, I must beg my readers to go back into +Abyssinia with me, and try to follow the sort of sport +my friend H. had been having, and did have, since +we parted. He wrote me a letter, saying that directly +he had received my note from Azho, dated the 12th +of March, and found that I was so ill, he came straight +up from the Mareb, and started off with Fisk and +Brou for Adiaboo. He arrived there on the 15th, +hoping to meet me; but they told him—which he +was very sorry to hear—that I was two days in front +of him, and also making long marches in order to +reach Massowah in time for the steamer. He saw it +was useless going on, and so returned that same evening +to Adaajerra, which was better known to us by +the name of Barrakee's village. On his way back he +met with a most unpleasant adventure. It may be +remembered by my readers that, on our former visit, +Zardic, the old chief of Adiaboo, was excessively rude +to us, and we believed it was owing to him that our +donkeys were stolen, and also that so large a price +was charged for the ones that we bought. H. was +travelling quietly along with Fisk and three servants, +when suddenly he heard a yelling and shouting, and +three or four hundred Abyssinians, with Zardic at +their head, rushed down upon them, pulled them off +their mules, and began beating them with sticks and +spears, and poking their guns into their ribs. This +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span> +was far from pleasant, and, after it was all over, H. +and his party were more dead than alive. I am afraid +that I was unjustly the cause of this little <i>contretemps</i>, +as Zardic swore that I had knocked down a man at +Azho, and then shot at him, and, as they could not +catch me, because I passed so quickly through +Adiaboo, they thought they would assail H., as they +considered he was just as bad. A few days after the +assault by Zardic and his men, H. wrote to Rass +Baria, the chief of Tigré, a letter of complaint, and, +later on, wrote to the King himself about it. He +subsequently heard there was a tremendous "row" +about all this, and that Zardic was going to be +chained, and the governorship of the province taken +away from him. I think the punishment very just, +and well merited by this chief.</p> + +<p>During H.'s first excursion to the Mareb he shot +4 buffaloes, 1 leopard, 1 wadembie (which is a much +larger kind of deer than either hagazin or hartebeest), +also 1 very large turtle, and 2 crocodiles. This was +certainly very good sport, and how I afterwards regretted +I was not able to be with him to swell the +bag! This was before he came up to try and join me +at Adiaboo; when he left Adiaboo, he went to the +Cassoua and Sherraro plains. There he shot 8 tora +(hartebeest), 3 of them being very large and fine +animals, 1 hagazin, and 2 pigs. Also, he says in his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span> +letter to me, that he killed "any number" of small +game, partridges, &c. These plains, according to his +account, swarm with all varieties of antelope, and, in +fact, he seems to have seen a great deal more game +than we did in any other part of Abyssinia. He stayed +there twelve days, and then went back to Barrakee's +village for a day and a half to get flour and provisions +for himself and servants; after which he again went +down to the Mareb, and stayed there till the 11th of +April, and would have remained longer, but the rains +had just begun, and he was afraid of fever. Of course +his great object was to get a lion, and for six successive +nights he sat up watching over an old bullock—a +beast that we had brought down to the Tackazzee +with us, and one of those which was so nearly drowned +in crossing over that river. On the sixth night a lion +pounced upon the buffalo, and H. shot it as dead as a +door-nail. Naturally he was very pleased, as he very +truly said that he would not have liked to leave Africa +without having shot either a lion or an elephant. +There was great rejoicing in camp next morning +among his servants, as Abyssinians think a great deal +of shooting a lion, although the king of beasts does +not stand so high in scale with them as the elephant. +He said Barrakee stayed with him the whole time, and +turned out a first-rate guide that knew every inch of +the country, and I am sure H. never regretted having +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span> +kept him. He gave him Fisk's gun as a present on +leaving, which delighted him very much. H. had on +one occasion saved his life. Barrakee got knocked +down by a wounded buffalo, and the beast was just +going to trample him to pieces, when H. came up +and shot it dead; the consequence being that Barrakee +was only laid up for a couple of days with a stiff +neck, instead of being gored to death. This man +was, on the whole, the best specimen of an Abyssinian +we had anything to do with while we were in the +country. He had been taught a good deal by the +missionaries, and he remembered the Powell who, +some of my readers may remember, was murdered +by the Shangalla tribe some time ago. Altogether +Barrakee turned out a most useful and faithful servant +to us. In addition to the lion H. shot 8 more buffaloes, +1 wadembie, 12 tora, and some gazelles. On the 11th +of April he started for Adowa. Alas! when he got +there he found that no attention had been paid to the +orders we had given for shields and black leopard +skins. He tried all over the town to get them, but +could not procure one. Rass Baria, who lived at +Adowa, had left, with most of the population of the +town, to join the king, who was fighting a <i>shifter</i>, or +robber, near Dembellas; so nothing could be done, +and the man to whom we had sent the order said he +could not make the shields without the money. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span> +When H. went to try and see him he found that, like +all the rest, he had gone with Rass Baria to the king. +H. stopped a day at Adowa, and then went straight +on to Massowah.</p> + +<p>His bag on the whole, that is to say, of large game, +was as follows: 1 lion, 12 buffaloes, 20 hartebeest, +2 hagazin, 2 wadembie, 1 leopard, 1 large deer with +straight horns, 36 gazelles, 1 very large crocodile, +2 pigs, and an enormous turtle; of course any amount +of guinea fowl and partridges. He says, "As for +hartebeest and buffalo, at Sherraro and on the Mareb, +you can go out and shoot as many as ever you like; +upon my word, they are more like cows than anything +else. I saved all the best heads and skins, and shall +send them home from Suez. I cannot tell you how +glad I am that I went down to the Mareb. Day +after day I watched for elephant and rhinoceros, but +I never even got a shot at one, and as for rhinoceros +I never even saw a track of one." This information +as regards the rhinoceros is rather curious, and only +shows that they must be much farther west, in fact, +in the country which was explored by Sir Samuel +Baker. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<p class="ch_summ"> +FRENCH FRIENDS—ON BOARD—COMPARATIVE COMFORT—A QUEER +FISH—A DINNER PARTY—A CARGO OF GAZELLES—ROUGH WEATHER—VOYAGE +TO SUEZ—AND ARRIVAL. +</p> + +<p><i>March 27</i>: <i>Massowah</i>.—I was very ill all night, +and this morning I went to the French Company to +get myself some clothes, as what I had on were +rather curious garments after the journey. I also +bought some stores for the voyage, and two fine +elephants' tusks, which were evidently not Abyssinian +ivory, as they were much too large. The Abyssinian +elephants have very small tusks, and the ivory does +not command a very high price. I was afraid my +donkeys would not come up till after the steamer +had sailed, but M. de Sarzec promised me to have all +my things packed up and sent on. I may as well tell +my readers that eventually everything arrived safe in +England, in as good condition as I left it when last +I saw it in Abyssinia. I lunched with the French +Consul, who entertained us most liberally and produced +some very good "tej," which he makes himself. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span> +I went to the French Company's house in the afternoon; +it overlooked the sea, and observing a boat +coming up alongside, I hailed it. An Englishman +was sitting in the stern, who turned out to be Mr. +Cordock, the engineer of the S.S. <i>Massowah</i>. I asked +him to come into the house and speak to me, told him +that I was going away by the steamer to Suez, and +that I had been very ill. The boat was to sail the +next day, so that evening he dined with me at the +French Company's, and we went off to the ship together. +He gave up his cabin to me, and he was +altogether most kind and considerate.</p> + +<p>My only fellow-passenger was an ex-French naval +captain, who had been sent out by a mercantile +house in Paris to look for guano amongst the islands +in the Red Sea. He had been cruising about for ten +days in an open native boat, called a sambouk, from +island to island, but had not succeeded in finding +what he wanted, and was now returning to Paris. +He happened to have a servant who was an excellent +cook. This man was half a Syrian and half a +Frenchman, and on the voyage up to Suez he cooked +all our meals for us.</p> + +<p><i>March 28, Sunday.</i>—The ship was to sail to-day, +but there was an additional quantity of hides to +take in. They were gradually crowding up the +deck with this stinking cargo, which had been accumulating +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span> +at Massowah for some time, the government +in Egypt not allowing merchants to ship these hides +to Suez, as there was cattle disease at the time in +Abyssinia. I sat on the deck most of the day, enjoying +the cool and pleasant breeze of the harbour. +Just before dinner M. de Sarzec came to see me, and +I persuaded him to stay and dine with us; he was +very entertaining, and he told us a long story of how +he had very nearly been murdered by the natives at +Fogera, in the south of Abyssinia. This is the place +where Consul Plowden, some time before, had been +killed. I wrote letters to K., and gave them to Goubasee +to take to Adowa. I likewise left some +money behind with the French Consul for H., on +his return to Massowah.</p> + +<p><i>March 29.</i>—At daybreak the steamer sailed for +Suez. I was better to-day, as an Arab doctor of +Massowah had given me some opium and ipecacuanha. +This had improved me, as also, probably, +the change to sea air had a great deal to do with it. +The engineer's cabin was on deck, and so I was as +comfortable as I well could be on the dirty little +steamer. I had laid in a stock of provisions at Massowah, +and had also brought down two small sheep +from Asmarra; so with the help of the Syrian cook +we promised not to fare badly.</p> + +<p><i>March 30.</i>—I was a little better this morning, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span> +during the day, but in the evening after dinner I was +taken dreadfully ill, in fact, I believed I was at the +point of death. The ship anchored for the night, as +is generally the custom with these steamers, the day +after leaving Massowah, for they are cruising about +amongst coral reefs, which are exceedingly dangerous. +Whenever we anchored, the sailors all set to work +fishing, catching numbers of peculiar-shaped and +strange-coloured monsters.</p> + +<p><i>March 31.</i>—I am better to-day, and we all dined +on the upper deck as it was very hot below. We +had a most unusual fish for dinner; he was like a +perch, only perfectly red, and the spiky fin on his +back was of a very beautiful scarlet colour. To-day +the French captain showed me the charts of his +voyages amongst the islands of the Red Sea, which +he had made in an Arab boat with a crew of three +men and his servant. There is a very heavy dew +at night here, but we all three sat talking till late, +Cordock, the engineer, produced some rum, which I +am sorry to say I am not allowed to drink, but the +French captain seemed to enjoy it very much. The +second officer of the ship, an Egyptian of the name of +Hassain, is a very intelligent man; he has been with +ships several times to London, and he talks a little +English.</p> + +<p><i>April 1.</i>—We arrived at Souakim about 9 o'clock +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">247</a></span> +in the morning, having anchored, for the night +before, inside a reef. I sent for the doctor, Achmet +Effendi, who came to see me. He was a very intelligent +and clever young man, and he spoke French +very well, having been seven years in Paris studying +his profession. Ali Effendi, the agent of the steamship +company, came off to see me; he is a great friend of +A.'s, and seemed a capital good fellow. I gave them +all a little dinner in the evening. The table was +laid on the forecastle, and was lighted up with about +twenty little lamps, which Ali Effendi kindly provided. +Our party consisted of Ali Effendi, the company's +agent; Achmet Effendi, the young doctor; +Mustapha, the captain of the ship; Hassain, the +second officer; the French captain; Mr. Cordock, the +engineer; and myself. Dinner went off capitally, and +our party all seemed to enjoy themselves very much. +They drank all the coffee in the ship that was +ready ground, and ate a large quantity of sweet +things. I sent into the town of Souakim to try and +get a minstrel to enliven us, but the musical instrument +on which he played was broken, the minstrel +was asleep, and the ship's stoker, a Copt, whom I had +sent to fetch him, came back quite drunk. After my +unsuccessful attempt to entertain the company I +went to bed, and I believe the party still went on +drinking coffee and smoking cigars <i>ad libitum</i>. We +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span> +here took on board a number of gazelles and +ariels. This is a speculation of an American, named +Philipo, who hopes to sell them for large prices in +Egypt. The animals are housed in pens on the fore +part of the ship and covered over with mats, as what +they suffer from most at sea is cold. I am picking +up Arabic very fast, and I think, in a short time I +should be able to talk like a native. The engineer +nurses me and takes the greatest care of me; in fact, +I do not know what I should do without him.</p> + +<p><i>April 2.</i>—We left Souakim at eight o'clock in the +morning; nothing of importance occurred to-day; we +had head winds and a strong sea.</p> + +<p><i>April 3.</i>—It blew rather hard, and the ship swayed +about. We dined in the engineer's little cabin +amidships, where the motion has not so much effect. +Our cook is prostrated with sea-sickness, as well as +most of the crew; in fact, all these Arab sailors are +generally sick when it comes on to blow. The +engineer, the French captain, and myself were the +only people who had not succumbed to this malady.</p> + +<p><i>April 4.</i>—At sea to-day it blew very hard, and we +made but little way, it was resolved, therefore, that if +it should continue to blow to-morrow we would anchor +inside Ras Benas, a large headland on the west side +of the Red Sea. Here may be seen the ruins of the +old Egyptian town of Berenice. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span></p> + +<p><i>April 5.</i>—We were at anchor south of Ras Benas, +and sheltered by the headland, but the captain would +not go near the mainland, as the pilot did not know +that the entrance into the small harbour is here. This +was a great disappointment to me, as I should much +have liked to land and see the ruins of Berenice. The +country is inhabited, and further inland gazelles and +deer are found; there is also some vegetation, including +mimosa bushes. Cordock and I went out in the +evening in the captain's gig to try to catch some fish, +but we only got a good tossing among the reefs, yet +I think the fresh breeze was beneficial to me.</p> + +<p><i>April 6.</i>—We are still at anchor under Ras Benas, +it is blowing so hard. The captain gave us and his +officers a breakfast in Egyptian fashion: it was very +good, some of the dishes being quite original to +me.</p> + +<p><i>April 7.</i>—We weighed anchor at seven o'clock in +the morning, it was blowing very hard, and the +captain wished to stay here till the wind dropped, +but Cordock induced him to go on, as he knew I +was ill and wanted to get home as quickly as +possible. The Arabs are dreadful cowards in a +storm, and when they find themselves in one they +generally begin praying, and doing nothing else. I +was a little stronger, but still very ill with a bad +diarrhœa. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span></p> + +<p><i>April 8.</i>—We had no chutney to eat with our curry +and rice, so I amused myself to-day by making some. +It resulted in a complete success, and proved very good. +The principal ingredients were some tomatos which the +cook had bought for me at Souakim. At two o'clock +to-day we were abreast of the Brothers, two low coral +islands, and quite chief features of the Red Sea; the +P. & O. Company have put a flag-staff on the larger one. +A gale was blowing very hard, and Cordock hoped to +make Shadwan that night, which is a large island at +the mouth of the Gulf of Suez, with a high mountain +on it that can be seen for thirty miles. I hope to +arrive at Suez on the 10th. It blew so hard, however, +that we could not get on at all, so on the +morning of the 9th we anchored at Tur, after having +passed a very stormy night. When Cordock came to +me in the morning, he informed me that the ship +had very nearly been lost off the island of Shadwan; +it was blowing tremendously hard at the time, and we +were on a lee-shore; the steering-gear gave way, and +the ship went round before the wind. All the Arabs +lost their heads, but Cordock, with the help of his +assistant-engineer and the Syrian cook, put things +right. During all this commotion I was sleeping in +utter unconsciousness in my cabin, and in the morning +I was very glad they had not woke me up. Tur is a +little place on the east side of the Red Sea; it is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span> +here that pilgrims and travellers disembark, and get +their camels to start for Mount Sinai.</p> + +<p>I went on shore in the afternoon and bought some +provisions at a Greek store there, and by a most unexpected +chance found some of Fortnum and Mason's +preserved soups at this out-of-the-way place; they +had been part of the cargo of a ship that had been +wrecked in the Gulf of Suez. The goods had been +bought by some Greeks of the Suez Bazaar, then +sent down to Tur. I went to see the old Russian +gentleman who makes arrangements for all travellers +to Mount Sinai. I bought some tortoiseshell from +him, and also purchased a pretty good collection of +coral and Red Sea shells from a Greek who was +hanging about, and who also sold me three beautiful +little sponges. Cordock, the French captain, and +I walked out to a grove of date-palm trees not +far off; the mountains in the distance were covered +with a strange purple haze, peculiar to the Red Sea, +and afforded a magnificent appearance. These hills +reminded me very much of the scenery of the background +of some of Gustave Doré's illustrations.</p> + +<p><i>April 10.</i>—We weighed anchor at seven o'clock in +the morning; but it was still very rough. The P. & O. +ship passed us about five <span class="s08">P.M.</span> We had just enough coal +to last us thirty hours, and we had to run one +hundred and twenty-five miles. Thank God! the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span> +wind dropped, or I cannot guess where we should +have been. We heard at Tur that an English ship +was on the Zafarina reef. They also told us that it +was blowing so hard that ships' boats could not get +ashore from the vessels lying in the roads at Suez.</p> + +<p><i>April 11.</i>—At last I have arrived at the end of my +journey, but more by good luck than good management. +We dropped our anchor at eight o'clock in +the Suez roads, having just got four tons of coal left. +If these had run out we should have had to go back +to Jidda for coal, or else gone ashore in a boat and +trudged up to Suez.</p> + +<p>Here my Journal ends. And I hope no other +unhappy mortal who may go travelling in search of +sport will ever have such a journey home as mine has +been.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<h2 class="fntitle">FOOTNOTES:</h2> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> + An Indian word for a large square tent.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> + Earl of Ranfurly, Captain Grenadier Guards, who died at Souakim, +on the Red Sea, May 10, 1875, on board the steamer which was that +day leaving for Suez.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> + It is not a necessary coincidence that if the back becomes sore the +swelling should come on, as I have seen several cases where there +were no outward signs of soreness, but still where large swellings +were forming.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> + The <i>courbatch</i> is a whip made of hippopotamus hide, and used in +Egypt and in the provinces belonging to that country. It is with this +whip that malefactors and offenders against the law are chastised. +Every stroke of it, if well laid on, will cut into the flesh.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> + General Kirkham was formerly a steward in the P. and O. service. +He left the P. and O. ship in China, to join the British contingent +which Colonel Gordon at that time was raising for the war in China. +General Kirkham was terribly wounded both in the head and shoulder +in this war; he came home, and Sir William Fergusson, the surgeon, +cured him. He afterwards went to Annesley Bay, and, at the time of +the Abyssinian expedition, he was employed by Lord Napier of Magdala +to buy bullocks for commissariat purposes; when the expedition +was over he received leave from Lord Napier to go into Abyssinia. He +tendered his services to the king, and was made a colonel of the +Abyssinian army. Having drilled some Abyssinian soldiers in the +English fashion for the king, in the battle which the king fought +against the rebel Goubasse he gained a well-won reputation, for it +was owing entirely to those men that Johannes the king won this battle. +After this he was made commander-in-chief, which he is now. It may +be remembered by some of my readers that General Kirkham came +home to England on a mission from King Johannes, to claim protection +for Abyssinia from the English Government. This mission +failed, and he returned to Abyssinia.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> + Value about 4<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> + Sunset is at six <span class="s08">P.M.</span></p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> + Her Abyssinian name was Desta, which means "happy."</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> + Terramnee means "stones in a row." This is a Tigré word, the +name of one of the large divisions or provinces of Abyssinia.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> + <i>Ballaga</i> is the Amharic for a farmer, or one who cultivates land +The other three classes in Abyssinia are chiefs, soldiers or followers of +chiefs, and merchants.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> + <i>Chillumchee</i> is an Indian word for a flat-bottomed tin basin.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> + <i>Cumberbund</i> is an Indian word for a thick scarf which is wound +round and round the waist; it is a great preventive against sunstroke +and chills.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> + <i>Shum</i> is Amharic for a chief of several villages.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> + <i>Angareb</i> is an Arabic word for an oblong framework raised on +legs; a network of raw hide is stretched on the frame, and the whole +forms the sort of bed that is used nearly all over the East.</p> +</div> + +<p class="left65 p6 s08"> +<span class="smcap">50a, Albemarle Street, London</span>,<br /> +<span class="i4"><i>January, 1876.</i></span></p> + +<div class="widead"> +<p class="center b13 p2">MR. MURRAY'S<br /> +<br />GENERAL LIST OF WORKS.</p> + +<hr class="l15" /> + +<p class="hanging"> +ALBERT (<span class="smcap">The</span>) MEMORIAL. A Descriptive and Illustrated +Account of the National Monument erected to the PRINCE CONSORT +at Kensington. Illustrated by Engravings of its Architecture, Decorations, +Sculptured Groups, Statues, Mosaics, Metalwork, &c. With +Descriptive Text. By <span class="smcap">Doyne C. Bell</span>. With 24 Plates. Folio. 12<i>l.</i> 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Prince</span>) <span class="smcap">Speeches and Addresses</span> with an Introduction, +giving some outline of his Character. With Portrait. 8vo. +10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; or <i>Popular Edition</i>, Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ALBERT DURER; his Life and Works. By <span class="smcap">Dr. Thausing</span>, +Keeper of Archduke Albert's Art Collection at Vienna. Translated +from the German. With Portrait Illustrations. Medium 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In the Press.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">ABBOTT'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. J.</span>) Memoirs of a Church of England Missionary +in the North American Colonies. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ABERCROMBIE'S (<span class="smcap">John</span>) Enquiries concerning the Intellectual +Powers and the Investigation of Truth. Fcap. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Philosophy of the Moral Feelings. Fcap. 8vo. +2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ACLAND'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. Charles</span>) Popular Account of the Manners and +Customs of India. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ÆSOP'S FABLES. A New Version. With Historical Preface. +By Rev. <span class="smcap">Thomas James</span>. With 100 Woodcuts, by <span class="smcap">Tenniel</span> and <span class="smcap">Wolf</span>. +Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">AGRICULTURAL (<span class="smcap">Royal</span>) JOURNAL. (<i>Published half yearly.</i>)</p> + +<p class="hanging">AIDS TO FAITH: a Series of Theological Essays. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="center">CONTENTS.</p> + +<table summary="Aids to Faith"> +<tr> +<td><i>Miracles</i></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Dean Mansel.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><i>Evidences of Christianity</i></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Bishop Fitzgerald.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><i>Prophecy & Mosaic Record of Creation</i></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Dr. McCaul.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><i>Ideology and Subscription</i></td> +<td>Canon <span class="smcap">Cook.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><i>The Pentateuch</i></td> +<td>Canon <span class="smcap">Rawlinson.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><i>Inspiration</i></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Bishop Harold Browne.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><i>Death of Christ</i></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Archbishop Thomson.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><i>Scripture and its Interpretation</i></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Bishop Ellicott.</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="hanging">AMBER-WITCH (<span class="smcap">The</span>). A most interesting Trial for Witchcraft. +Translated by <span class="smcap">Lady Duff Gordon</span>. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ARMY LIST (<span class="smcap">The</span>). <i>Published Monthly by Authority.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ARTHUR'S (<span class="smcap">Little</span>) History of England. By <span class="smcap">Lady Callcott</span>. +<i>New Edition, continued to 1872.</i> With 36 Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">AUSTIN'S (<span class="smcap">John</span>) <span class="smcap">Lectures on General Jurisprudence</span>; or, the +Philosophy of Positive Law. Edited by <span class="smcap">Robert Campbell</span>. 2 Vols. +8vo. 32<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Student's Edition</span>, compiled from the above work. +Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ARNOLD'S (<span class="smcap">Thos.</span>) Ecclesiastical and Secular Architecture of +Scotland: The Abbeys, Churches, Castles, and Mansions. With Illustrations. +Medium 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">ADMIRALTY PUBLICATIONS; Issued by direction of the Lords +Commissioners of the Admiralty:—</p> +<ul class="none"> +<li class="hanging">A MANUAL OF SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY, for the Use of Travellers. +<i>Fourth Edition.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Robert Main</span>, M.A. Woodcuts. Post +8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">GREENWICH ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS 1841 to 1846, +and 1847 to 1871. Royal 4to. 20<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">MAGNETICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 1840 +to 1847. Royal 4to. 20<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">APPENDICES TO OBSERVATIONS. +<ul class="none"> +<li class="hanging"> +1837. Logarithms of Sines and Cosines in Time. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1842. Catalogue of 1439 Stars, from Observations made in 1836 +to 1841. 4<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1845. Longitude of Valentia (Chronometrical). 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1847. Description of Altazimuth. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Twelve Years' Catalogue of Stars, from Observations made +in 1836 to 1847. 4<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Description of Photographic Apparatus. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1851. Maskelyne's Ledger of Stars. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1852. I. Description of the Transit Circle. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1853. Refraction Tables. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1854. Description of the Zenith Tube. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Six Years' Catalogue of Stars, from Observations. 1848 to +1853. 4<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1862. Seven Years' Catalogue of Stars, from Observations. 1854 to +1860. 10<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Plan of Ground Buildings. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Longitude of Valentia (Galvanic). 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1864. Moon's Semid. from Occultations. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Planetary Observations, 1831 to 1835. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1868. Corrections of Elements of Jupiter and Saturn. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Second Seven Years' Catalogue of 2760 Stars for 1861 to +1867. 4<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hangingnd">Description of the Great Equatorial. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1856. Descriptive Chronograph. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1860. Reduction of Deep Thermometer Observations. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">1871. History and Description of Water Telescope. 3<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">Cape of Good Hope Observations (Star Ledgers). 1856 to 1863. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— 1856. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— Astronomical Results. 1857 to 1858. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">Report on Teneriffe Astronomical Experiment. 1856. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">Paramatta Catalogue of 7385 Stars. 1822 to 1826. 4<i>s.</i></li> +</ul></li> + +<li class="hanging">ASTRONOMICAL RESULTS. 1847 to 1871. 4to. 3<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">MAGNETICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL RESULTS. 1847 to +1871. 4to. 3<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">REDUCTION OF THE OBSERVATIONS OF PLANETS. 1750 to +1830. Royal 4to. 20<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">—— LUNAR OBSERVATIONS. 1750 +to 1830. 2 Vols. Royal 4to. 20<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">—— 1831 to 1851. 4to. 10<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">BERNOULLI'S SEXCENTENARY TABLE. 1779. 4to. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">BESSEL'S AUXILIARY TABLES FOR HIS METHOD OF CLEARING +LUNAR DISTANCES. 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">ENCKE'S BERLINER JAHRBUCH, for 1830. <i>Berlin</i>, 1828. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">HANSEN'S TABLES DE LA LUNE. 4to. 20<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">LAX'S TABLES FOR FINDING THE LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE. +1821. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">LUNAR OBSERVATIONS at GREENWICH. 1783 to 1819. Compared +with the Tables, 1821. 4to. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">MACLEAR ON LACAILLE'S ARC OF MERIDIAN. 2 Vols. 20<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">MAYER'S DISTANCES of the MOON'S CENTRE from the +PLANETS. 1822, 3<i>s.</i>; 1823, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> 1824 to 1835. 8vo. 4<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">—— TABULÆ MOTUUM SOLIS ET LUNÆ. 1770. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT GOTTINGEN, +from 1756 to 1761. 1826. Folio. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">NAUTICAL ALMANACS, from 1767 to 1877. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">—— SELECTIONS FROM, up to 1812. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i> +1834-54. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— SUPPLEMENTS, 1828 to 1833, 1837 and 1838. +2<i>s.</i> each.</li> + +<li class="hanging">—— TABLE requisite to be used with the N.A. +1781. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">SABINE'S PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS to <span class="smcap">Determine the Figure +of the Earth</span>. 1825. 4to. 40<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">SHEPHERD'S TABLES for <span class="smcap">Correcting Lunar Distances</span>. 1772. +Royal 4to. 21<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— TABLES, GENERAL, of the MOON'S DISTANCE +from the SUN, and 10 STARS. 1787. Folio. 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">TAYLOR'S SEXAGESIMAL TABLE. 1780. 4to. 15<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— TABLES OF LOGARITHMS. 4to. 60<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">TIARK'S ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS for the <span class="smcap">Longitude +of Madeira</span>. 1822. 4to. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— CHRONOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS for <span class="smcap">Differences +of Longitude</span> between <span class="smcap">Dover</span>, <span class="smcap">Portsmouth</span>, and <span class="smcap">Falmouth</span>. 1823. +4to. 5<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">VENUS and JUPITER: <span class="smcap">Observations</span> of, compared with the <span class="smcap">Tables</span>. +<i>London</i>, 1822. 4to. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">WALES' AND BAYLY'S ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS. +1777. 4to. 21<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">—— REDUCTION OF ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS +<span class="smcap">made in the Southern Hemisphere</span>. 1764-1771. 1788. 4to. +10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">BARBAULD'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Hymns in Prose for Children. With +Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BARROW'S (<span class="smcap">Sir John</span>) Autobiographical Memoir, from Early +Life to Advanced Age. Portrait. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">John</span>) Life, Exploits, and Voyages of Sir Francis +Drake. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BARRY'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Charles</span>) Life and Works. By <span class="smcap">Canon Barry</span>. +With Portrait and Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BATES' (H. W.) Records of a Naturalist on the River Amazon +during eleven years of Adventure and Travel. Illustrations. Post 8vo. +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BAX'S (<span class="smcap">Captain</span>) Russian Tartary, Eastern Siberia, China, Japan, +and Formosa. A Narrative of a Cruise in the Eastern Seas. With +Map and Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BEAUCLERK'S (<span class="smcap">Lady Diana</span>) Summer and Winter in Norway. +With Illustrations. Small 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BELCHER'S (<span class="smcap">Lady</span>) Account of the Mutineers of the 'Bounty,' +and their Descendants; with their Settlements in Pitcairn and Norfolk +Islands. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BELL'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Chas.</span>) Familiar Letters. Portrait. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BELT'S (<span class="smcap">Thos.</span>) Naturalist in Nicaragua, including a Residence +at the Gold Mines of Chontales; with Journeys in the Savannahs +and Forests; and Observations on Animals and Plants. Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BERTRAM'S (<span class="smcap">Jas. G.</span>) Harvest of the Sea: an Account of British +Food Fishes, including sketches of Fisheries and Fisher Folk. With +50 Illustrations. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BIBLE COMMENTARY. <span class="smcap">Explanatory and Critical.</span> With +a <span class="smcap">Revision of the Translation</span>. By BISHOPS and CLERGY of the +ANGLICAN CHURCH. Edited by <span class="smcap">F. C. Cook</span>, M.A., Canon of Exeter. +Medium 8vo. <span class="smcap">Vol. I.</span>, 30<i>s.</i> <span class="smcap">Vols. II.</span> and III., 36<i>s.</i> <span class="smcap">Vol. IV.</span>, 24<i>s.</i> +<span class="smcap">Vol. V.</span>, 20<i>s.</i> <span class="smcap">Vol. VI.</span>, 20<i>s.</i></p> + +<table summary="Bible Commentary"> +<tr> +<td rowspan="5">Vol. I.</td> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Genesis.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Exodus.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Leviticus.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Numbers.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Deuteronomy.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td rowspan="4">Vols. II. and III.</td> +<td class="sp">{<span class="smcap">Joshua.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Judges, Ruth, Samuel.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Kings, Chronicles, Ezra,</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Nehemiah, Esther.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td rowspan="5">Vol. IV.</td> +<td class="sp">{<span class="smcap">Job.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Psalms.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Proverbs.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Ecclesiastes.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Song of Solomon.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td rowspan="2">Vol. V.</td> +<td class="sp">{<span class="smcap">Isaiah.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Jeremiah.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td rowspan="3">Vol. VI.</td> +<td class="sp">{<span class="smcap">Ezekiel.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Daniel.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>{<span class="smcap">Minor Prophets.</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="hanging">BIRCH'S (<span class="smcap">Samuel</span>) History of Ancient Pottery and Porcelain: +Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek, Roman, and Etruscan. With Coloured +Plates and 200 Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BIRD'S (<span class="smcap">Isabella</span>) Hawaiian Archipelago; or Six Months Among +the Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, and Volcanoes of the Sandwich Islands. +With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BISSET'S (<span class="smcap">Andrew</span>) History of the Commonwealth of England, +from the Death of Charles I. to the Expulsion of the Long Parliament +by Cromwell. Chiefly from the MSS. in the State Paper Office. 2 vols. +8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">General</span>) Sport and War in South Africa from 1834 +to 1867, with a Narrative of the Duke of Edinburgh's Visit. With +Map and Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BLACKSTONE'S COMMENTARIES; adapted to the Present +State of the Law. By <span class="smcap">R. Malcolm Kerr</span>, LL.D. <i>Revised Edition</i>, +incorporating all the Recent Changes in the Law. 4 vols. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">BLUNT'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. J. J.</span>) Undesigned Coincidences in the Writings of +the Old and New Testaments, an Argument of their Veracity: containing +the Books of Moses, Historical and Prophetical Scriptures, and the +Gospels and Acts. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of the Church in the First Three Centuries. +Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Parish Priest; His Duties, Acquirements and Obligations. +Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Lectures on the Right Use of the Early Fathers. +8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— University Sermons. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Plain Sermons. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BLOMFIELD'S (<span class="smcap">Bishop</span>) Memoir, with Selections from his Correspondence. +By his Son. Portrait, post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BOSWELL'S (<span class="smcap">James</span>) Life of Samuel Johnson, LL.D. Including +the Tour to the Hebrides. By Mr. <span class="smcap">Croker</span>. <i>New Edition.</i> Portraits. +4 vols. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">BRACE'S (C. L.) Manual of Ethnology; or the Races of the Old +World. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BOOK OF COMMON PRAYER. Illustrated with Coloured +Borders, Initial Letters, and Woodcuts. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BORROW'S (<span class="smcap">George</span>) Bible in Spain; or the Journeys, Adventures, +and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to circulate the +Scriptures in the Peninsula. Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Gypsies of Spain; their Manners, Customs, Religion, +and Language. With Portrait. Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Lavengro; The Scholar—The Gypsy—and the Priest. +Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Romany Rye—a Sequel to "Lavengro." Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Wild Wales</span>: its People, Language, and Scenery. +Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Romano Lavo-Lil; Word-Book of the Romany, or +English Gypsy Language; with Specimens of their Poetry, and an +account of certain Gypsyries. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BRAY'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Life of Thomas Stothard, R.A. With Portrait +and 60 Woodcuts. 4to. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Revolt of the Protestants in the Cevennes. With some +Account of the Huguenots in the Seventeenth Century. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BRITISH ASSOCIATION REPORTS. 8vo.</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>York and Oxford, 1831-32, 13<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Cambridge, 1833, 12<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Edinburgh, 1834, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Dublin, 1835, 13<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Bristol, 1836, 12<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Liverpool, 1837, 16<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Newcastle, 1838, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Birmingham, 1839, 13<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Glasgow, 1840, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Plymouth, 1841, 13<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Manchester, 1842, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Cork, 1843, 12<i>s.</i></li> +<li>York, 1844, 20<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Cambridge, 1845, 12<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Southampton, 1846, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Oxford, 1847, 18<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Swansea, 1848, 9<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Birmingham, 1849, 10<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Edinburgh, 1850, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Ipswich, 1851, 16<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Belfast, 1852, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Hull, 1853, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li>Liverpool, 1854, 18<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Glasgow, 1855, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Cheltenham, 1856, 18<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Dublin, 1857, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Leeds, 1858, 20<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Aberdeen, 1859, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Oxford, 1860, 25<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Manchester, 1861, 15<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Cambridge, 1862, 20<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Newcastle, 1863, 25<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Bath, 1864, 18<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Birmingham, 1865, 25<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Nottingham, 1866, 24<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Dundee, 1867, 26<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Norwich, 1868, 25<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Exeter, 1869, 22<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Liverpool, 1870, 18<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Edinburgh, 1871, 16<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Brighton, 1872, 24<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Bradford, 1873, 25<i>s.</i></li> +<li>Belfast, 1874.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">BROUGHTON'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Journey through Albania, Turkey in +Europe and Asia, to Constantinople. Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Visits to Italy. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BROWNLOW'S (<span class="smcap">Lady</span>) Reminiscences of a Septuagenarian. +From the year 1802 to 1815. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BRUGSCH'S (<span class="smcap">Professor</span>) History of Ancient Egypt. Derived +from Monuments and Inscriptions. <i>New Edition.</i> Translated by <span class="smcap">H. +Danby Seymour</span>. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">BUCKLEY'S (<span class="smcap">Arabella B.</span>) Short History of Natural Science, +and the Progress of Discovery from the time of the Greeks to the +present day, for Schools and young Persons. Illustrations. Post +8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BURGON'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. J. W.</span>) Christian Gentleman; or, Memoir of +Patrick Fraser Tytler. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Letters from Rome. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BURN'S (<span class="smcap">Col.</span>) Dictionary of Naval and Military Technical +Terms, English and French—French and English. Crown 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BURROW'S (<span class="smcap">Montagu</span>) Constitutional Progress. A Series of +Lectures delivered before the University of Oxford. Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BUXTON'S (<span class="smcap">Charles</span>) Memoirs of Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton, +Bart. With Selections from his Correspondence. Portrait. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i> +<i>Popular Edition.</i> Fcap. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Notes of Thought. With Biographical Sketch. +By Rev. <span class="smcap">Llewellyn Davies</span>. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BURCKHARDT'S (<span class="smcap">Dr. Jacob</span>) Cicerone; or Art Guide to Painting +in Italy. Edited by <span class="smcap">Rev. Dr. A. Von Zahn</span>, and Translated from +the German by <span class="smcap">Mrs. A. Clough</span>. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BYLES' (<span class="smcap">Sir John</span>) Foundations of Religion in the Mind and +Heart of Man. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BYRON'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Life, Letters, and Journals. By <span class="smcap">Thomas Moore</span>. +<i>Cabinet Edition.</i> Plates, 6 Vols. Fcap. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i>; or One Volume, +Portraits. Royal 8vo., 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— and Poetical Works. <i>Popular Edition.</i> +Portraits. 2 vols. Royal 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Poetical Works. <i>Library Edition.</i> Portrait. 6 Vols. 8vo. 45<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— <i>Cabinet Edition.</i> Plates. 10 Vols. 12mo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— <i>Pocket Edition.</i> 8 Vols. 24mo. 21<i>s.</i> <i>In a case.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— <i>Popular Edition.</i> Plates. Royal 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— <i>Pearl Edition.</i> Crown 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Childe Harold. With 80 Engravings. Crown 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— 16mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Vignettes. 16mo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Portrait. 16mo. 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Tales and Poems. 24mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Miscellaneous. 2 Vols. 24mo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Dramas and Plays. 2 Vols. 24mo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Don Juan and Beppo. 2 Vols. 24mo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Beauties. Poetry and Prose. Portrait. Fcap. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">BUTTMAN'S Lexilogus; a Critical Examination of the +Meaning of numerous Greek Words, chiefly in Homer and Hesiod. +By Rev. <span class="smcap">J. R. Fishlake</span>. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Irregular Greek Verbs. With all the Tenses +extant—their Formation, Meaning, and Usage, with Notes, by Rev. +<span class="smcap">J. R. Fishlake</span>. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CALLCOTT'S (<span class="smcap">Lady</span>) Little Arthur's History of England. +<i>New Edition, brought down to 1872.</i> With Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. +1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CARNARVON'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Portugal, Gallicia, and the Basque +Provinces. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Reminiscences of Athens and the Morea. With +Map. Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Recollections of the Druses of Lebanon. With +Notes on their Religion. Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CASTLEREAGH (<span class="smcap">The</span>) <span class="smcap">Despatches</span>, from the commencement +of the official career of Viscount Castlereagh to the close of his life. +12 Vols. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">CAMPBELL'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Lord Chancellors and Keepers of the +Great Seal of England. From the Earliest Times to the Death of Lord +Eldon in 1838. 10 Vols. Crown 8vo. 6<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Chief Justices of England. From the Norman +Conquest to the Death of Lord Tenterden. 4 Vols. Crown 8vo. 6<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Lords Lyndhurst and Brougham. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Shakspeare's Legal Acquirements. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Lord Bacon. Fcap. 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Sir Neil</span>) Account of Napoleon at Fontainebleau +and Elba. Being a Journal of Occurrences and Notes of his Conversations, +&c. Portrait. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Sir George</span>) India as it may be: an Outline of a +proposed Government and Policy. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Thos.</span>) Essay on English Poetry. With Short +Lives of the British Poets. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CATHCART'S (<span class="smcap">Sir George</span>) Commentaries on the War in Russia +and Germany, 1812-13. Plans. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CAVALCASELLE <span class="smcap">AND</span> CROWE'S History of Painting in +<span class="smcap">North Italy</span>, from the 14th to the 16th Century. With Illustrations. +2 Vols. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Early Flemish Painters, their Lives and +Works. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; or Large Paper, 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CHILD'S (<span class="smcap">G. Chaplin</span>, M.D.) Benedicite; or, Song of the Three +Children; being Illustrations of the Power, Beneficence, and Design +manifested by the Creator in his works. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CHISHOLM'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Perils of the Polar Seas; True Stories of +Arctic Discovery and Adventure. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CHURTON'S (<span class="smcap">Archdeacon</span>) Gongora. An Historical Essay on the +Age of Philip III. and IV. of Spain. With Translations. Portrait. +2 Vols. Small 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Poetical Remains, Translations and Imitations. +Portrait. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— New Testament. Edited with a Plain Practical +Commentary for Families and General Readers. With 100 Panoramic +and other Views, from Sketches made on the Spot. 2 vols. 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CICERO'S <span class="smcap">Life and Times</span>. His Character as a Statesman, +Orator, and Friend, with a Selection from his Correspondence and Orations. +By <span class="smcap">William Forsyth</span>, M.P. With Illustrations. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CLARK'S (<span class="smcap">Sir James</span>) Memoir of Dr. John Conolly. Comprising +a Sketch of the Treatment of the Insane in Europe and America. With +Portrait. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CLIVE'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Life. By <span class="smcap">Rev. G. R. Gleig</span>. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CLODE'S (C. M.) Military Forces of the Crown; their Administration +and Government. 2 Vols. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Administration of Justice under Military and Martial +Law, as applicable to the Army, Navy, Marine, and Auxiliary Forces. +8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">COLCHESTER (<span class="smcap">The</span>) Papers. The Diary and Correspondence +of Charles Abbott, Lord Colchester, Speaker of the House of Commons. +1802-1817. Portrait. 3 Vols. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CHURCH (<span class="smcap">The</span>) & THE AGE. Essays on the Principles and +Present Position of the Anglican Church. 2 vols. 8vo. 26<i>s.</i> Contents:—</p> + +<p class="i6"><span class="smcap">Vol. I.</span></p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>Anglican Principles.—Dean Hook.</li> +<li>Modern Religious Thought.—Bishop Ellicott.</li> +<li>State, Church, and Synods.—Rev. Dr. Irons.</li> +<li>Religious Use of Taste.—Rev. R. St. John Tyrwhitt.</li> +<li>Place of the Laity.—Professor Burrows.</li> +<li>Parish Priest.—Rev. Walsham How.</li> +<li>Divines of 16th and 17th Centuries.—Rev. A. W. Haddan.</li> +<li>Liturgies and Ritual, Rev. M. F. Sadler.</li> +<li>Church & Education.—Canon Barry.</li> +<li>Indian Missions.—Sir Bartle Frere.</li> +<li>Church and the People.—Rev. W. D. Maclagan.</li> +<li>Conciliation and Comprehension.—Rev. Dr. Weir.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="i6"><span class="smcap">Vol. II.</span></p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>Church and Pauperism.—Earl Nelson.</li> +<li>American Church.—Bishop of Western New York.</li> +<li>Church and Science.—Prebendary Clark.</li> +<li>Ecclesiastical Law.—Isambard Brunel.</li> +<li>Church & National Education.—Canon Norris.</li> +<li>Church and Universities.—John G. Talbot.</li> +<li>Toleration.—Dean Cowie.</li> +<li>Eastern Church and Anglican Communion.—Rev. Geo. Williams.</li> +<li>A Disestablished Church.—Dean of Cashel.</li> +<li>Christian Tradition.—Rev. Dr. Irons.</li> +<li>Dogma.—Rev. Dr. Weir.</li> +<li>Parochial Councils.—Archdeacon Chapman.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">COLERIDGE'S (<span class="smcap">Samuel Taylor</span>) Table-Talk. Portrait. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">COLLINGWOOD'S (<span class="smcap">Cuthbert</span>) Rambles of a Naturalist on the +Shores and Waters of the China Sea. With Illustrations. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">COLONIAL LIBRARY. [See Home and Colonial Library.]</p> + +<p class="hanging">COOK'S (Canon) Sermons Preached at Lincoln's Inn. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">COOKE'S (E. W.) Artist's Portfolio. Being Sketches made during +Tours in Holland, Germany, Italy, Egypt, &c. 50 Plates. Royal +4to.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">COOKERY (<span class="smcap">Modern Domestic</span>). Founded on Principles of Economy +and Practical Knowledge, By a Lady. Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">COOPER'S (T. T.) Travels of a Pioneer of Commerce on an +Overland Journey from China towards India. Illustrations. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CORNWALLIS (<span class="smcap">The</span>) Papers and Correspondence during the +American War,—Administrations in India,—Union with Ireland, and +Peace of Amiens. 3 Vols. 8vo. 63<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">COWPER'S (<span class="smcap">Countess</span>) Diary while Lady of the Bedchamber +to Caroline, Princess of Wales, 1714-20. Portrait. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CRABBE'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. George</span>) Life and Poetical Works. With Illustrations. +Royal 8vo. 7<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CRAWFORD & BALCARRE'S (Earl of) Etruscan Inscriptions. +Analyzed, Translated, and Commented upon. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Argo; or the Quest of the Golden +Fleece. In Ten Books. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">CROKER'S (J. W.) Progressive Geography for Children. +18mo. 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Stories for Children, Selected from the History of +England. Woodcuts. 16mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Boswell's Life of Johnson. Including the Tour to +the Hebrides. <i>New Edition.</i> Portraits. 4 vols. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Early Period of the French Revolution. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Historical Essay on the Guillotine. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CUMMING'S (<span class="smcap">R. Gordon</span>) Five Years of a Hunter's Life in the +Far Interior of South Africa. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CROWE'S <span class="smcap">and</span> CAVALCASELLE'S Lives of the Early Flemish +Painters. Woodcuts. Post 8vo, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; or Large Paper, 8vo, 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of Painting in North Italy, from 14th to +16th Century. Derived from Researches into the Works of Art in +that Country. With Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CUNYNGHAME'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Arthur</span>) Travels in the Eastern Caucasus, +on the Caspian, and Black Seas, in Daghestan and the Frontiers of +Persia and Turkey. With Map and Illustrations. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CURTIUS' (<span class="smcap">Professor</span>) Student's Greek Grammar, for the Upper +Forms. Edited by <span class="smcap">Dr. Wm. Smith</span>. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Elucidations of the above Grammar. Translated by +<span class="smcap">Evelyn Abbot</span>. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller Greek Grammar for the Middle and Lower +Forms. Abridged from the larger work. 12mo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Accidence of the Greek Language. Extracted from +the above work. 12mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Principles of Greek Etymology. Translated by <span class="smcap">A. S. +Wilkins</span>, M.A., and <span class="smcap">E. B. England</span>, B.A. Vol. I. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CURZON'S (<span class="smcap">Hon. Robert</span>) <span class="smcap">Armenia and Erzeroum</span>. A Year on +the Frontiers of Russia, Turkey, and Persia. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Visits to the Monasteries of the Levant. Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">CUST'S (<span class="smcap">General</span>) Warriors of the 17th Century—The Thirty Years' +War. 2 Vols. 16<i>s.</i> Civil Wars of France and England. 2 Vols. 16<i>s.</i> +Commanders of Fleets and Armies. 2 Vols. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Annals of the Wars—18th & 19th Century, 1700-1815. +With Maps. 9 Vols. Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">DAVIS'S (<span class="smcap">Nathan</span>) Ruined Cities of Numidia and Carthaginia. +Illustrations. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DAVY'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Humphry</span>) Consolations in Travel; or, Last Days +of a Philosopher. Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Salmonia; or, Days of Fly Fishing. Woodcuts. +Fcap. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DARWIN'S (<span class="smcap">Charles</span>) Journal of a Naturalist during a Voyage +round the World. Crown 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection; +or, the Preservation of Favoured Races in the Struggle for Life. +Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Variation of Animals and Plants under Domestication. +With Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Descent of Man, and Selection in Relation to Sex. +With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Expressions of the Emotions in Man and Animals. +With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Fertilization of Orchids through Insect Agency, and +as to the good of Intercrossing. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Movements and Habits of Climbing Plants. Woodcuts. +Crown 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Insectivorous Plants. Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Fact and Argument for Darwin. By <span class="smcap">Fritz Muller</span>. +Translated by <span class="smcap">W. S. Dallas</span>. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DELEPIERRE'S (<span class="smcap">Octave</span>) History of Flemish Literature. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Historic Difficulties & Contested Events. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DENISON'S (E. B.) Life of Bishop Lonsdale. With Selections +from his Writings. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DERBY'S (<span class="smcap">Earl of</span>) Iliad of Homer rendered into English +Blank Verse. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DE ROS'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Young Officer's Companion; or, Essays on +Military Duties and Qualities: with Examples and Illustrations from +History. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DEUTSCH'S (<span class="smcap">Emanuel</span>) Talmud, Islam, The Targums and other +Literary Remains. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DILKE'S (<span class="smcap">Sir C. W.</span>) Papers of a Critic. Selected from the +Writings of the late <span class="smcap">Chas. Wentworth Dilke</span>. With a Biographical +Sketch. 2 Vols. 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DOG-BREAKING; the Most Expeditious, Certain, and Easy +Method, whether great excellence or only mediocrity be required. With +a Few Hints for those who Love the Dog and the Gun. By <span class="smcap">Lieut.-Gen. +Hutchinson</span>. With 40 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DOMESTIC MODERN COOKERY. Founded on Principles of +Economy and Practical Knowledge, and adapted for Private Families. +Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DOUGLAS'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Howard</span>) Life and Adventures. Portrait. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Theory and Practice of Gunnery. Plates. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Construction of Bridges and the Passage of Rivers, +in Military Operations. Plates. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Wm.</span>) Horse-Shoeing; As it Is, and As it Should be. +Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DRAKE'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Francis</span>) Life, Voyages, and Exploits, by Sea and +Land. By <span class="smcap">John Barrow</span>. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DRINKWATER'S (<span class="smcap">John</span>) History of the Siege of Gibraltar, +1779-1783. With a Description and Account of that Garrison from the +Earliest Periods. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DUCANGE'S <span class="smcap">Mediæval Latin-English Dictionary</span>. Translated +by Rev. <span class="smcap">E. A. Dayman</span>, M.A. Small 4to. [<i>In preparation.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DU CHAILLU'S (<span class="smcap">Paul B.</span>) <span class="smcap">Equatorial Africa</span>, with +Accounts of the Gorilla, the Nest-building Ape, Chimpanzee, Crocodile, +&c. Illustrations. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Journey to Ashango Land; and Further Penetration +into Equatorial Africa. Illustrations. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DUFFERIN'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Letters from High Latitudes; a Yacht +Voyage to Iceland, Jan Mayen, and Spitzbergen. Woodcuts. Post +8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DUNCAN'S (<span class="smcap">Major</span>) History of the Royal Artillery. Compiled +from the Original Records. With Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">DYER'S (<span class="smcap">Thos. H.</span>) History of Modern Europe, from the taking +of Constantinople by the Turks to the close of the War in the +Crimea. With Index. 4 Vols. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">EASTLAKE'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Charles</span>) Contributions to the Literature of +the Fine Arts. With Memoir of the Author, and Selections from his +Correspondence. By <span class="smcap">Lady Eastlake</span>. 2 Vols. 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">EDWARDS' (W. H.) Voyage up the River Amazons, including a +Visit to Para. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">EIGHT MONTHS AT ROME, during the Vatican Council, with +a Daily Account of the Proceedings. By <span class="smcap">Pomponio Leto</span>. Translated +from the Original. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>Nearly ready.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">ELDON'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Public and Private Life, with Selections from +his Correspondence and Diaries. By <span class="smcap">Horace Twiss</span>. Portrait. 2 +Vols. Post 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ELGIN'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Letters and Journals. Edited by <span class="smcap">Theodore +Walrond</span>. With Preface by <span class="smcap">Dean Stanley</span>. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ELLESMERE'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Two Sieges of Vienna by the Turks. +Translated from the German. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ELLIS'S (W.) Madagascar, including a Journey to the Capital, +with notices of Natural History and the People. Woodcuts. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Madagascar Revisited. Setting forth the Persecutions +and Heroic Sufferings of the Native Christians. Illustrations. +8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Memoir. By <span class="smcap">His Son</span>. With his Character and +Work. By <span class="smcap">Rev. Henry Allon</span>, D.D. Portrait. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Robinson</span>) Poems and Fragments of Catullus. 16mo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ELPHINSTONE'S (<span class="smcap">Hon. Mountstuart</span>) History of India—the +Hindoo and Mahomedan Periods. Edited by <span class="smcap">Professor Cowell</span>. +Map. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (H. W.) Patterns for Turning; Comprising +Elliptical and other Figures cut on the Lathe without the use of any +Ornamental Chuck. With 70 Illustrations. Small 4to. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ENGLAND. See <span class="smcap">Callcott</span>, <span class="smcap">Croker</span>, <span class="smcap">Hume</span>, <span class="smcap">Markham</span>, <span class="smcap">Smith</span>, +and <span class="smcap">Stanhope</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">ESSAYS ON CATHEDRALS. With an Introduction. By +<span class="smcap">Dean Howson</span>. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="center">CONTENTS.</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>Recollections of a Dean.—Bishop of Carlisle.</li> +<li>Cathedral Canons and their Work.—Canon Norris.</li> +<li>Cathedrals in Ireland, Past and Future.—Dean of Cashel.</li> +<li>Cathedrals in their Missionary Aspect.—A. J. B. Beresford Hope.</li> +<li>Cathedral Foundations in Relation to Religious Thought.—Canon Westcott.</li> +<li>Cathedral Churches of the Old Foundation.—Edward A. Freeman.</li> +<li>Welsh Cathedrals.—Canon Perowne.</li> +<li>Education of Choristers.—Sir F. Gore Ouseley.</li> +<li>Cathedral Schools.—Canon Durham.</li> +<li>Cathedral Reform.—Chancellor Massingberd.</li> +<li>Relation of the Chapter to the Bishop.—Chancellor Benson.</li> +<li>Architecture of the Cathedral Churches.—Canon Venables.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">ELZE'S (<span class="smcap">Karl</span>) Life of Lord Byron. With a Critical Essay on +his Place in Literature. Translated from the German. With Portrait. +8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FARRAR'S (A. S.) Critical History of Free Thought in +reference to the Christian Religion. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FERGUSSON'S (<span class="smcap">James</span>) History of Architecture in all Countries +from the Earliest Times. With 1,600 Illustrations. 4 Vols. Medium +8vo. 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>Vol. I. & II. Ancient and Mediæval.</li> +<li>Vol. III. Indian and Eastern.</li> +<li>Vol. IV. Modern.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">—— Rude Stone Monuments in all Countries; their Age +and Uses. With 230 Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Holy Sepulchre and the Temple at Jerusalem. +Woodcuts. 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FLEMING'S (<span class="smcap">Professor</span>) Student's Manual of Moral Philosophy. +With Quotations and References. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FLOWER GARDEN. By <span class="smcap">Rev. Thos. James</span>. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FORD'S (<span class="smcap">Richard</span>) Gatherings from Spain. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FORSYTH'S (<span class="smcap">William</span>) Life and Times of Cicero. With Selections +from his Correspondence and Orations. Illustrations. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Hortensius; an Historical Essay on the Office +and Duties of an Advocate. Illustrations. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of Ancient Manuscripts. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Novels and Novelists of the 18th Century, in +Illustration of the Manners and Morals of the Age. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FORTUNE'S (<span class="smcap">Robert</span>) Narrative of Two Visits to the Tea Countries +of China, 1843-52. Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FORSTER'S (<span class="smcap">John</span>) Life of Jonathan Swift. Vol. I. 1667-1711. +With Portrait. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FOSS' (<span class="smcap">Edward</span>) Biographia Juridica, or Biographical Dictionary +of the Judges of England, from the Conquest to the Present Time, +1066-1870. Medium 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">——Tabulæ Curiales; or, Tables of the Superior Courts +of Westminster Hall. Showing the Judges who sat in them from 1066 +to 1864. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FRANCE. ⁂ See <span class="smcap">Markham</span>—<span class="smcap">Smith</span>—Student's.</p> + +<p class="hanging">FRENCH (<span class="smcap">The</span>) in Algiers; The Soldier of the Foreign Legion—and +the Prisoners of Abd-el-Kadir. Translated by <span class="smcap">Lady Duff Gordon</span>. +Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FRERE'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Bartle</span>) Indian Missions. Small 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Eastern Africa as a field for Missionary Labour. With +Map. Crown 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Bengal Famine. How it will be Met and How to Prevent +Future Famines in India. With Maps. Crown 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GALTON'S (<span class="smcap">Francis</span>) Art of Travel; or, Hints on the Shifts and +Contrivances available in Wild Countries. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY'S JOURNAL. (<i>Published Yearly.</i>)</p> + +<p class="hanging">GEORGE'S (<span class="smcap">Ernest</span>) Mosel; a Series of Twenty Etchings, with +Descriptive Letterpress. Imperial 4to. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Loire and South of France; a Series of Twenty +Etchings, with Descriptive Text. Folio. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GERMANY (<span class="smcap">History of</span>). See <span class="smcap">Markham</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">GIBBON'S (<span class="smcap">Edward</span>) History of the Decline and Fall of the +Roman Empire. Edited by <span class="smcap">Milman</span> and <span class="smcap">Guizot</span>. Edited, with Notes, +by Dr. <span class="smcap">Wm. Smith</span>. Maps. 8 Vols. 8vo. 60<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (The Student's Gibbon); Being an Epitome of the +above work, incorporating the Researches of Recent Commentators. By +Dr. <span class="smcap">Wm. Smith</span>. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GIFFARD'S (<span class="smcap">Edward</span>) Deeds of Naval Daring; or, Anecdotes of +the British Navy. Fcap. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GLADSTONE'S (W. E.) Financial Statements of 1853, 1860, 63-65. +8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Rome and the Newest Fashions in Religion. +Three Tracts. <i>Collected Edition.</i> With a new Preface. 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GLEIG'S (G. R.) Campaigns of the British Army at Washington +and New Orleans. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Story of the Battle of Waterloo. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Narrative of Sale's Brigade in Affghanistan. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life of Lord Clive. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Sir Thomas Munro. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GOLDSMITH'S (<span class="smcap">Oliver</span>) Works. Edited with Notes by <span class="smcap">Peter +Cunningham</span>. Vignettes. 4 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GORDON'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Alex.</span>) Sketches of German Life, and Scenes +from the War of Liberation. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Lady Duff</span>) Amber-Witch: A Trial for Witchcraft. +Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— French in Algiers. 1. The Soldier of the Foreign +Legion. 2. The Prisoners of Abd-el-Kadir. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GRAMMARS. See <span class="smcap">Curtius</span>; <span class="smcap">Hall</span>; <span class="smcap">Hutton</span>; <span class="smcap">King Edward</span>; +<span class="smcap">Matthiæ</span>; <span class="smcap">Maetzner</span>; <span class="smcap">Smith</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">GREECE. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Grote</span>—<span class="smcap">Smith</span>—Student.</p> + +<p class="hanging">GREY'S (<span class="smcap">Earl</span>) Correspondence with King William IVth and +Sir Herbert Taylor, from 1830 to 1832. 2 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Parliamentary Government and Reform; with +Suggestions for the Improvement of our Representative System. +<i>Second Edition.</i> 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">GUIZOT'S (M.) Meditations on Christianity, and on the Religious +Questions of the Day. 3 Vols. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">GROTE'S (<span class="smcap">George</span>) History of Greece. From the Earliest Times +to the close of the generation contemporary with the death of Alexander +the Great. <i>Library Edition.</i> Portrait, Maps, and Plans. 10 Vols. 8vo. +120<i>s.</i> <i>Cabinet Edition.</i> Portrait and Plans. 12 Vols. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Plato</span>, and other Companions of Socrates. 3 Vols. 8vo. 45<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Aristotle</span>. 2 Vols. 8vo. 32<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Minor Works. With Critical Remarks on his +Intellectual Character, Writings, and Speeches. By <span class="smcap">Alex. Bain</span>, LL.D. +Portrait. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Fragments on Ethical Subjects. Being a Selection from +his Posthumous Papers. With an Introduction. By <span class="smcap">Alexander +Bain</span>, M.A. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Personal Life. Compiled from Family Documents, +Private Memoranda, and Original Letters to and from Various +Friends. By <span class="smcap">Mrs. Grote</span>. Portrait. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Memoir of Ary Scheffer. Portrait. 8vo. 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HALL'S (T. D.) School Manual of English Grammar. With +Copious Exercises. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Primary English Grammar for Elementary Schools. +16mo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Child's First Latin Book, including a Systematic Treatment +of the New Pronunciation, and a full Praxis of Nouns, Adjectives, +and Pronouns. 16mo. 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HALLAM'S (<span class="smcap">Henry</span>) Constitutional History of England, from the +Accession of Henry the Seventh to the Death of George the Second. +<i>Library Edition.</i> 3 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i> <i>Cabinet Edition</i>, 3 Vols. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Student's Edition of the above work. Edited by +<span class="smcap">Wm. Smith</span>, D.C.L. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of Europe during the Middle Ages. <i>Library +Edition.</i> 3 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i> <i>Cabinet Edition</i>, 3 Vols. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Student's Edition of the above work. Edited by +<span class="smcap">Wm. Smith</span>, D.C.L. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Literary History of Europe, during the 15th, 16th and +17th Centuries. <i>Library Edition.</i> 3 Vols. 8vo. 36<i>s.</i> <i>Cabinet Edition.</i> +4 Vols. Post 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Arthur</span>) Literary Remains; in Verse and Prose. +Portrait. Fcap. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HAMILTON'S (<span class="smcap">Gen. Sir F. W.</span>) History of the Grenadier Guards. +From Original Documents in the Rolls' Records, War Office, Regimental +Records, &c. With Illustrations. 3 Vols. 8vo. 63<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HART'S ARMY LIST. (<i>Published Quarterly and Annually.</i>)</p> + +<p class="hanging">HAY'S (<span class="smcap">Sir J. H. Drummond</span>) Western Barbary, its Wild Tribes +and Savage Animals. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HEAD'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Francis</span>) Royal Engineer. Illustrations. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life of Sir John Burgoyne. Post 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Rapid Journeys across the Pampas. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Bubbles from the Brunnen of Nassau. Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Emigrant. Fcap. 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Stokers and Pokers; or the London and North Western +Railway. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Sir Edmund</span>) Shall and Will; or, Future Auxiliary +Verbs. Fcap. 8vo. 4<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HEBER'S (<span class="smcap">Bishop</span>) Journals in India. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Poetical Works. Portrait. Fcap. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Hymns adapted to the Church Service. 16mo. 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HERODOTUS. A New English Version. Edited, with Notes +and Essays, historical, ethnographical, and geographical, by <span class="smcap">Canon +Rawlinson</span>, assisted by <span class="smcap">Sir Henry Rawlinson</span> and <span class="smcap">Sir J. G. Wilkinson</span>. +Maps and Woodcuts. 4 Vols. 8vo. 48<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HERSCHEL'S (<span class="smcap">Caroline</span>) Memoir and Correspondence. By +<span class="smcap">Mrs. John Herschel</span>. With Portraits. Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">HATHERLEY'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Continuity of Scripture, as Declared +by the Testimony of our Lord and of the Evangelists and Apostles. +8vo. 6<i>s.</i> <i>Popular Edition.</i> Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HOLLWAY'S (J. G.) Month in Norway. Fcap. 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HONEY BEE. By <span class="smcap">Rev. Thomas James</span>. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HOOK'S (<span class="smcap">Dean</span>) Church Dictionary. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Theodore</span>) Life. By <span class="smcap">J. G. Lockhart</span>. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HOPE'S (T. C.) <span class="smcap">Architecture of Ahmedabad</span>, with Historical +Sketch and Architectural Notes. With Maps, Photographs, and +Woodcuts. 4to. 5<i>l.</i> 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">A. J. Beresford</span>) Worship in the Church of England. +8vo. 9<i>s.</i>, or, <i>Popular Selections from</i>. 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">FOREIGN HANDBOOKS.</p> + +<p class="hanging">HAND-BOOK—TRAVEL-TALK. English, French, German, and +Italian. 18mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— HOLLAND,—<span class="smcap">Belgium</span>, <span class="smcap">Rhenish Prussia</span>, and the +Rhine from Holland to Mayence. Map and Plans. Post. 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— NORTH GERMANY,—From the Baltic to the +Black Forest, the Hartz, Thüringerwald, Saxon Switzerland, Rüzen, +the Giant Mountains, Taunus, Odenwald, and the Rhine Countries, +from Frankfort to Basle. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— SOUTH GERMANY,—Wurtemburg, Bavaria, +Austria, Styria, Salzburg, the Austrian and Bavarian Alps, Tyrol, Hungary, +and the Danube, from Ulm to the Black Sea. Map. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— PAINTING. German, Flemish, and Dutch Schools. +Illustrations. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— LIVES OF EARLY FLEMISH PAINTERS. By +<span class="smcap">Crowe</span> and <span class="smcap">Cavalcaselle</span>. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— SWITZERLAND, Alps of Savoy, and Piedmont. +Maps. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— FRANCE, Part I. Normandy, Brittany, the French +Alps, the Loire, the Seine, the Garonne, and the Pyrenees. Post 8vo. +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part II. Central France, Auvergne, the +Cevennes, Burgundy, the Rhone and Saone, Provence, Nimes, Arles, +Marseilles, the French Alps, Alsace, Lorraine, Champagne, &c. Maps. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS—Malta, Corsica, +Sardinia, and Sicily. Maps. Post 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In the Press.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— ALGERIA. Algiers, Constantine, Oran, the Atlas +Range. Map. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— PARIS, and its Environs. Map. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> +<p class="center">⁂<span class="smcap">Murray's Plan of Paris</span>, mounted on canvas. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— SPAIN, Madrid, The Castiles, The Basque Provinces, +Leon, The Asturias, Galicia, Estremadura, Andalusia, Ronda, Granada, +Murcia, Valencia, Catalonia, Aragon, Navarre, The Balearic Islands, +&c. &c. Maps. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— PORTUGAL, <span class="smcap">Lisbon</span>, Porto, Cintra, Mafra, &c. +Map. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— NORTH ITALY, Turin, Milan, Cremona, the +Italian Lakes, Bergamo, Brescia, Verona, Mantua, Vicenza, Padua, +Ferrara, Bologna, Ravenna, Rimini, Piacenza, Genoa, the Riviera, +Venice, Parma, Modena, and Romagna. Map. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— CENTRAL ITALY, Florence, Lucca, Tuscany, The +Marches, Umbria, and the late Patrimony of St. Peter's. Map. Post 8vo. +10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— ROME <span class="smcap">and its Environs</span>. Map. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— SOUTH ITALY, Two Sicilies, Naples, Pompeii, +Herculaneum, and Vesuvius. Map. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— KNAPSACK GUIDE TO ITALY. 16mo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— PAINTING. The Italian Schools. Illustrations. +2 Vols. Post 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— LIVES OF ITALIAN PAINTERS, <span class="smcap">from Cimabue +to Bassano</span>. By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Jameson</span>. 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Map. 2 Vols. +Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="center">ENGLISH HANDBOOKS.</p> + +<p class="hanging">HAND-BOOK—MODERN LONDON. Map. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— EASTERN COUNTIES, Chelmsford, Harwich, Colchester, +Maldon, Cambridge, Ely, Newmarket, Bury St. Edmunds, +Ipswich, Woodbridge, Felixstowe, Lowestoft, Norwich, Yarmouth, +Cromer, &c. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— CATHEDRALS of Oxford, Peterborough, Norwich, +Ely, and Lincoln. With 90 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— KENT AND SUSSEX, Canterbury, Dover, Ramsgate, +Sheerness, Rochester, Chatham, Woolwich, Brighton, Chichester, +Worthing, Hastings, Lewes, Arundel, &c. Map. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— SURREY AND HANTS, Kingston, Croydon, Reigate, +Guildford, Dorking, Boxhill, Winchester, Southampton, New +Forest, Portsmouth, and <span class="smcap">Isle of Wight</span>. Maps. 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With 60 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. +21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND, Newcastle, +Darlington, Gateshead, Bishop Auckland, Stockton, Hartlepool, +Sunderland, Shields, Berwick-on-Tweed, Morpeth, Tynemouth, Coldstream, +Alnwick, &c. Map. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— WESTMORLAND <span class="smcap">AND</span> CUMBERLAND—Lancaster, +Furness Abbey, Ambleside, Kendal, Windermere, Coniston, +Keswick, Grasmere, Ulswater, Carlisle, Cockermouth, Penrith, Appleby. +Map. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="center"> +⁂<span class="smcap">Murray's Map of the Lake District</span>, on canvas. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— SCOTLAND, Edinburgh, Melrose, Kelso, Glasgow, +Dumfries, Ayr, Stirling, Arran, The Clyde, Oban, Inverary, Loch +Lomond, Loch Katrine and Trossachs, Caledonian Canal, Inverness, +Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Braemar, Skye, Caithness, Ross, Sutherland, +&c. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— IRELAND, Dublin, Belfast, Donegal, Galway, +Wexford, Cork, Limerick, Waterford, Killarney, Munster, &c. Maps. +Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HORACE; a New Edition of the Text. Edited by <span class="smcap">Dean Milman</span>. +With 100 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life of. By <span class="smcap">Dean Milman</span>. Illustrations. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HOUGHTON'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Monographs, Vol. I., Personal and Social. +With Portraits. Crown 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Poetical Works</span>. <i>Collected Edition.</i> With Portrait. +2 Vols. Fcap. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HUME'S (The Student's) History of England, from the Invasion +of Julius Cæsar to the Revolution of 1688. Corrected and continued +to 1868. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HUTCHINSON (<span class="smcap">Gen.</span>), on the most expeditious, certain, and +easy Method of Dog-Breaking. With 40 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. +9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HUTTON'S (H. E.) Principia Græca; an Introduction to the Study +of Greek. Comprehending Grammar, Delectus, and Exercise-book, +with Vocabularies. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">IRBY AND MANGLES' Travels in Egypt, Nubia, Syria, and +the Holy Land. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JACOBSON'S (<span class="smcap">Bishop</span>) Fragmentary Illustrations of the History +of the Book of Common Prayer; from Manuscript Sources (Bishop +<span class="smcap">Sanderson</span> and Bishop <span class="smcap">Wren</span>). 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JAMES' (<span class="smcap">Rev. Thomas</span>) Fables of Æsop. A New Translation, with +Historical Preface. With 100 Woodcuts by <span class="smcap">Tenniel</span> and <span class="smcap">Wolf</span>. +Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY. A Series of Works +adapted for all circles and classes of Readers, having been selected +for their acknowledged interest, and ability of the Authors. Post 8vo. +Published at 2<i>s.</i> and 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each, and arranged under two distinctive +heads as follows:—</p> + +<p class="center">CLASS A.</p> + +<p class="center">HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, AND HISTORIC TALES.</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li class="hanging">1. SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR. By +<span class="smcap">John Drinkwater</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">2. THE AMBER-WITCH. By +<span class="smcap">Lady Duff Gordon</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">3. CROMWELL AND BUNYAN. +By <span class="smcap">Robert Southey</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">4. LIFE <span class="smcap">of Sir</span> FRANCIS DRAKE. +By <span class="smcap">John Barrow</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">5. CAMPAIGNS AT WASHINGTON. +By <span class="smcap">Rev. G. R. Gleig</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">6. THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS. +By <span class="smcap">Lady Duff Gordon</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">7. THE FALL OF THE JESUITS. +2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">8. LIVONIAN TALES. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">9. LIFE OF CONDÉ. By <span class="smcap">Lord Mahon</span>. +3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">10. SALE'S BRIGADE. By <span class="smcap">Rev. +G. R. Gleig</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">11. THE SIEGES OF VIENNA. +By <span class="smcap">Lord Ellesmere</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">12. THE WAYSIDE CROSS. By +<span class="smcap">Capt. Milman</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">13. SKETCHES <span class="smcap">OF</span> GERMAN LIFE. +By <span class="smcap">Sir A. Gordon</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">14. THE BATTLE <span class="smcap">OF</span> WATERLOO. +By <span class="smcap">Rev. G. R. Gleig</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">15. AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF STEFFENS. +2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">16. THE BRITISH POETS. By +<span class="smcap">Thomas Campbell</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">17. HISTORICAL ESSAYS. By +<span class="smcap">Lord Mahon</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">18. LIFE OF LORD CLIVE. By +<span class="smcap">Rev. G. R. Gleig</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">19. NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. +By <span class="smcap">Sir F. B. Head</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">20. LIFE OF MUNRO. By <span class="smcap">Rev. G. +R. Gleig</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +</ul> + +<p class="center">CLASS B.</p> + +<p class="center">VOYAGES, TRAVELS, AND ADVENTURES.</p> +<ul class="none"> +<li class="hanging">1. BIBLE IN SPAIN. By <span class="smcap">George +Borrow</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">2. GYPSIES <span class="smcap">OF</span> SPAIN. By <span class="smcap">George +Borrow</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">3 & 4. JOURNALS IN INDIA. By +<span class="smcap">Bishop Heber</span>. 2 Vols. 7<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">5. TRAVELS <span class="smcap">IN THE</span> HOLY LAND. +By <span class="smcap">Irby</span> and <span class="smcap">Mangles</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">6. MOROCCO AND THE MOORS. +By <span class="smcap">J. Drummond Hay</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">7. LETTERS FROM <span class="smcap">THE</span> BALTIC. +By a <span class="smcap">Lady</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">8. NEW SOUTH WALES. By <span class="smcap">Mrs. +Meredith</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">9. THE WEST INDIES. By <span class="smcap">M. G. +Lewis</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">10. SKETCHES OF PERSIA. By +<span class="smcap">Sir John Malcolm</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">11. MEMOIRS OF FATHER RIPA. +2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">12 & 13. TYPEE AND OMOO. By +<span class="smcap">Hermann Melville</span>. 2 Vols. 7<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">14. MISSIONARY LIFE IN CANADA +By <span class="smcap">Rev. J. Abbott</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">15. LETTERS FROM MADRAS. By +a <span class="smcap">Lady</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">16. HIGHLAND SPORTS. By +<span class="smcap">Charles St. John</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">17. PAMPAS JOURNEYS. By <span class="smcap">Sir +F. B. Head</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">18. GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN. +By <span class="smcap">Richard Ford</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">19. THE RIVER AMAZON. By +<span class="smcap">W. H. Edwards</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">20. MANNERS & CUSTOMS OF +INDIA. By <span class="smcap">Rev. C. Acland</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">21. ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. +By <span class="smcap">G. F. Ruxton</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">22. PORTUGAL AND GALLICIA. +By <span class="smcap">Lord Carnarvon</span>. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">23. BUSH LIFE IN AUSTRALIA. +By <span class="smcap">Rev. H. W. Haygarth</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">24. THE LIBYAN DESERT. By +<span class="smcap">Bayle St. John</span>. 2<i>s.</i></li> + +<li class="hanging">25. SIERRA LEONE. By <span class="smcap">A Lady</span>. +3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +</ul> +<p class="center">⁂ Each work may be had separately.</p> + +<p class="hanging">JAMESON'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Lives of the Early Italian Painters—and +the Progress of Painting in Italy—Cimabue to Bassano. With +50 Portraits. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JENNINGS' (L. J.) Eighty Years of Republican Government in +the United States. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JERVIS'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. W. H.</span>) Gallican Church, from the Concordat +of Bologna, 1516, to the Revolution. With an Introduction. +Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 28<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JESSE'S (<span class="smcap">Edward</span>) Gleanings in Natural History. Fcp. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JEX-BLAKE'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. T. W.</span>) Life in Faith: Sermons Preached +at Cheltenham and Rugby. Fcap. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">JOHNS' (<span class="smcap">Rev. B. G.</span>) Blind People; their Works and Ways. With +Sketches of the Lives of some famous Blind Men. With Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JOHNSON'S (<span class="smcap">Dr. Samuel</span>) Life. By James Boswell. Including +the Tour to the Hebrides. Edited by <span class="smcap">Mr. Croker</span>. <i>New Edition.</i> +Portraits. 4 Vols. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Lives of the most eminent English Poets, with +Critical Observations on their Works. Edited with Notes, Corrective +and Explanatory, by <span class="smcap">Peter Cunningham</span>. 3 vols. 8vo. 22<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">JUNIUS' <span class="smcap">Handwriting</span> Professionally investigated. By Mr. <span class="smcap">Chabot</span>, +Expert. With Preface and Collateral Evidence, by the Hon. <span class="smcap">Edward +Twisleton</span>. With Facsimiles, Woodcuts, &c. 4to. £3 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KEN'S (<span class="smcap">Bishop</span>) Life. By a <span class="smcap">Layman</span>. Portrait. 2 Vols. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Exposition of the Apostles' Creed. 16mo. 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KERR'S (<span class="smcap">Robert</span>) <span class="smcap">Gentleman's House; or, How to Plan English +Residences from the Parsonage to the Palace</span>. With +Views and Plans. 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Small Country House. A Brief Practical Discourse on +the Planning of a Residence from 2000<i>l.</i> to 5000<i>l.</i> With Supplementary +Estimates to 7000<i>l.</i> Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Ancient Lights; a Book for Architects, Surveyors, +Lawyers, and Landlords. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">R. Malcolm</span>) Student's Blackstone. A Systematic +Abridgment of the entire Commentaries, adapted to the present state +of the law. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KING EDWARD <span class="smcap">VIth's</span> Latin Grammar. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— First Latin Book. 12mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KING GEORGE <span class="smcap">IIIrd's</span> Correspondence with Lord North, +1769-82. Edited, with Notes and Introduction, by <span class="smcap">W. Bodham Donne</span>. +2 vols. 8vo. 32<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KING'S (R. J.) Archæology Travel and Art; being Sketches and +Studies, Historical and Descriptive. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KIRK'S (<span class="smcap">J. Foster</span>) History of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. +Portrait. 3 Vols. 8vo. 45<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KIRKES' Handbook of Physiology. Edited by <span class="smcap">W. Morrant +Baker</span>, F.R.C.S. With 240 Illustrations. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">KUGLER'S Handbook of Painting.—The Italian Schools. Revised +and Remodelled from the most recent Researches. By <span class="smcap">Lady +Eastlake</span>. With 140 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Handbook of Painting.—The German, Flemish, and +Dutch Schools. Revised and in part re-written. By <span class="smcap">J. A. Crowe</span>. +With 60 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LANE'S (E. W.) Account of the Manners and Customs of Modern +Egyptians. With Illustrations. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LAWRENCE'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Geo.</span>) Reminiscences of Forty-three Years' +Service in India; including Captivities in Cabul among the Affghans +and among the Sikhs, and a Narrative of the Mutiny in Rajputana. +Crown 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LAYARD'S (A. H.) Nineveh and its Remains. Being a Narrative +of Researches and Discoveries amidst the Ruins of Assyria. +With an Account of the Chaldean Christians of Kurdistan; the Yezedis, +or Devil-worshippers; and an Enquiry into the Manners and Arts of +the Ancient Assyrians. Plates and Woodcuts. 2 Vols. 8vo. 36<i>s.</i><br /> +⁂ A <span class="smcap">Popular Edition</span> of the above work. With Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Nineveh and Babylon; being the Narrative of Discoveries +in the Ruins, with Travels in Armenia, Kurdistan and the +Desert, during a Second Expedition to Assyria. With Map and +Plates. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i><br /> +⁂ A <span class="smcap">Popular Edition</span> of the above work. With Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LEATHES' (<span class="smcap">Stanley</span>) Practical Hebrew Grammar. With the +Hebrew Text of Genesis i.-vi., and Psalms i.-vi. Grammatical +Analysis and Vocabulary. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LENNEP'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. H. J. Van</span>) Missionary Travels in Asia Minor. +With Illustrations of Biblical History and Archæology. With Map +and Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Modern Customs and Manners of Bible Lands in +Illustration of Scripture. With Coloured Maps and 300 Illustrations. +2 Vols. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LESLIE'S (C. R.) Handbook for Young Painters. With Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life and Works of Sir Joshua Reynolds. Portraits +and Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LETTERS <span class="smcap">From the Baltic</span>. By a <span class="smcap">Lady</span>. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Madras</span>. By a <span class="smcap">Lady</span>. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Sierra Leone</span>. By a <span class="smcap">Lady</span>. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LEVI'S (<span class="smcap">Leone</span>) History of British Commerce; and of the Economic +Progress of the Nation, from 1763 to 1870. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LIDDELL'S (<span class="smcap">Dean</span>) Student's History of Rome, from the earliest +Times to the establishment of the Empire. With Woodcuts. Post 8vo. +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LLOYD'S (<span class="smcap">W. Watkiss</span>) History of Sicily to the Athenian War; +with Elucidations of the Sicilian Odes of Pindar. With Map. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LISPINGS from LOW LATITUDES; or, the Journal of the Hon. +Impulsia Gushington. Edited by <span class="smcap">Lord Dufferin</span>. With 24 Plates. 4to. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LITTLE ARTHUR'S <span class="smcap">History of England</span>. By <span class="smcap">Lady Callcott</span>. +<i>New Edition, continued to 1872.</i> With Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. +1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LIVINGSTONE'S (<span class="smcap">Dr.</span>) Popular Account of his First Expedition +to Africa, 1840-56. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Popular Account of his Second Expedition to +to Africa, 1858-64, Map and Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Last Journals in Central Africa, from 1865 +to his Death. Continued by a Narrative of his last moments and sufferings. +By Rev. <span class="smcap">Horace Waller</span>. Maps and Illustrations. 2 Vols. +8vo. 28<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LIVONIAN TALES. By the Author of "Letters from the +Baltic." Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LOCH'S (H. B.) Personal Narrative of Events during Lord +Elgin's Second Embassy to China. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LOCKHART'S (J. G.) Ancient Spanish Ballads. Historical and +Romantic. Translated, with Notes. With Portrait and Illustrations. +Crown 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life of Theodore Hook. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LONSDALE'S (<span class="smcap">Bishop</span>) Life. With Selections from his Writings. +By <span class="smcap">E. B. Denison</span>. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LOUDON'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Gardening for Ladies. With Directions +and Calendar of Operations for Every Month. Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. +3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LUCKNOW: A Lady's Diary of the Siege. Fcap. 8vo. 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LYELL'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Charles</span>) Principles of Geology; or, the Modern +Changes of the Earth and its Inhabitants considered as illustrative of +Geology. With Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 32<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Student's Elements of Geology. With Table of British +Fossils and 600 Illustrations. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Geological Evidences of the Antiquity of Man, +including an Outline of Glacial Post-Tertiary Geology, and Remarks +on the Origin of Species. Illustrations. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (K. M.) Geographical Handbook of Ferns. With Tables +to show their Distribution. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LYTTELTON'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Ephemera. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 19<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">LYTTON'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Memoir of Julian Fane. With Portrait. Post +8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">M<sup>c</sup>CLINTOCK'S (<span class="smcap">Sir L.</span>) Narrative of the Discovery of the +Fate of Sir John Franklin and his Companions in the Arctic Seas. +With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MACDOUGALL'S (<span class="smcap">Col.</span>) Modern Warfare as Influenced by Modern +Artillery. With Plans. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MACGREGOR'S (J.) Rob Roy on the Jordan, Nile, Red Sea, Gennesareth, +&c. A Canoe Cruise in Palestine and Egypt and the Waters +of Damascus. With Map and 70 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MACPHERSON'S (<span class="smcap">Major</span>) Services in India, while Political +Agent at Gwalior during the Mutiny. Illustrations. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MAETZNER'S <span class="smcap">English Grammar</span>. A Methodical, Analytical, +and Historical Treatise on the Orthography, Prosody, Inflections, and +Syntax of the English Tongue. Translated from the German. By +<span class="smcap">Clair J. Grece</span>, LL.D. 3 Vols. 8vo. 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MAHON (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>), see <span class="smcap">Stanhope</span>..</p> + +<p class="hanging">MAINE'S (<span class="smcap">Sir H. Sumner</span>) Ancient Law: its Connection with the +Early History of Society, and its Relation to Modern Ideas. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Village Communities in the East and West. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Early History of Institutions. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MALCOLM'S (<span class="smcap">Sir John</span>) Sketches of Persia. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MANSEL'S (<span class="smcap">Dean</span>) Limits of Religious Thought Examined. +Post 8vo. 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Letters, Lectures, and Papers, including the Phrontisterion, +or Oxford in the XIXth Century. Edited by <span class="smcap">H. W. Chandler</span>, +M.A. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Gnostic Heresies of the First and Second Centuries. +With a sketch of his life and character By Lord <span class="smcap">Carnarvon</span>. +Edited by Canon <span class="smcap">Lightfoot</span>. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MANUAL OF SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY. For the Use of +Travellers. Edited by <span class="smcap">Rev. R. Main</span>. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> (<i>Published by +order of the Lords of the Admiralty.</i>)</p> + +<p class="hanging">MARCO POLO. The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian. +Concerning the Kingdoms and Marvels of the East. A new English +Version. Illustrated by the light of Oriental Writers and Modern +Travels. By <span class="smcap">Col. Henry Yule</span>. Maps and Illustrations. 2 Vols. +Medium 8vo. 63<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MARKHAM'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) History of England. From the First Invasion +by the Romans <i>to</i> 1867. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of France. From the Conquest by the +Gauls <i>to</i> 1861. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of Germany. From the Invasion by Marius +<i>to</i> 1867. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MARLBOROUGH'S (<span class="smcap">Sarah, Duchess of</span>) Letters. Now first +published from the Original MSS. at Madresfield Court. With an +Introduction. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MARRYAT'S (<span class="smcap">Joseph</span>) History of Modern and Mediæval Pottery +and Porcelain. With a Description of the Manufacture. Plates and +Woodcuts. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MARSH'S (G. P.) Student's Manual of the English Language. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MATTHIÆ'S <span class="smcap">Greek Grammar</span>. Abridged by <span class="smcap">Blomfield</span>, +<i>Revised</i> by <span class="smcap">E. S. Crooke</span>. 12mo. 4<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MAUREL'S Character, Actions, and Writings of Wellington. +Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MAYNE'S (<span class="smcap">Capt.</span>) Four Years in British Columbia and Vancouver +Island. Illustrations. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MEADE'S (<span class="smcap">Hon. Herbert</span>) Ride through the Disturbed Districts of +New Zealand, with a Cruise among the South Sea Islands. With Illustrations. +Medium 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MELVILLE'S (<span class="smcap">Hermann</span>) Marquesas and South Sea Islands. +2 Vols. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MEREDITH'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs. Charles</span>) Notes and Sketches of New South +Wales. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MESSIAH (THE). The Life, Travels, Death, Resurrection, and +Ascension of our Blessed Lord. By <span class="smcap">A Layman</span>. Map. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MILLINGTON'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. T. S.</span>) Signs and Wonders in the Land of +Ham, or the Ten Plagues of Egypt, with Ancient and Modern Illustrations. +Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MILMAN'S (<span class="smcap">Dean</span>) History of the Jews, from the earliest Period +down to Modern Times. 3 Vols. Post 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Early Christianity, from the Birth of Christ to the +Abolition of Paganism in the Roman Empire. 3 Vols. Post 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Latin Christianity, including that of the Popes to +the Pontificate of Nicholas V. 9 Vols. Post 8vo. 54<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Annals of St. Paul's Cathedral, from the Romans to +the funeral of Wellington. Portrait and Illustrations. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Character and Conduct of the Apostles considered +as an Evidence of Christianity. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Quinti Horatii Flacci Opera. With 100 Woodcuts. +Small 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life of Quintus Horatius Flaccus. With Illustrations. +8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Poetical Works. The Fall of Jerusalem—Martyr of +Antioch—Balshazzar—Tamor—Anne Boleyn—Fazio, &c. With Portrait +and Illustrations. 3 Vols. Fcap. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Fall of Jerusalem. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Capt. E. A.</span>) Wayside Cross. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MIVART'S (<span class="smcap">St. George</span>) Lessons from Nature; as manifested in +Mind and Matter. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Founded on Principles of +Economy and Practical Knowledge. <i>New Edition.</i> Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MONGREDIEN'S (<span class="smcap">Augustus</span>) Trees and Shrubs for English +Plantation. A Selection and Description of the most Ornamental +which will flourish in the open air in our climate. With Classified +Lists. With 30 Illustrations 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MOORE & JACKMAN on the Clematis as a Garden Flower. +Descriptions of the Hardy Species and Varieties, with Directions for +their Cultivation. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MOORE'S (<span class="smcap">Thomas</span>) Life and Letters of Lord Byron. <i>Cabinet +Edition.</i> With Plates. 6 Vols. Fcap. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i>; <i>Popular Edition</i>, +with Portraits. Royal 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MOSSMAN'S (<span class="smcap">Samuel</span>) New Japan; the Land of the Rising Sun; +its Annals and Progress during the past Twenty Years, recording the +remarkable Progress of the Japanese in Western Civilisation. With +Map. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MOTLEY'S (J. L.) History of the United Netherlands: from the +Death of William the Silent to the Twelve Years' Truce, 1609. <i>Library +Edition.</i> Portraits. 4 Vols. 8vo. 60<i>s.</i> <i>Cabinet Edition.</i> 4 Vols. Post +8vo. 6<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life and Death of John of Barneveld, +Advocate of Holland. With a View of the Primary Causes and +Movements of the Thirty Years' War. <i>Library Edition.</i> Illustrations. +2 Vols. 8vo. 28<i>s.</i> <i>Cabinet Edition.</i> 2 vols. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MOUHOT'S (<span class="smcap">Henri</span>) Siam, Cambojia, and Lao; a Narrative of +Travels and Discoveries. Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">MOZLEY'S (<span class="smcap">Canon</span>) Treatise on Predestination. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Primitive Doctrine of Baptismal Regeneration. 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MUIRHEAD'S (<span class="smcap">Jas.</span>) Vaux-de-Vire of Maistre Jean Le Houx, +Advocate of Vire. Translated and Edited. With Portrait and Illustrations. +8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">MUNRO'S (<span class="smcap">General</span>) Life and Letters. By <span class="smcap">Rev. G. R. Gleig</span>. +Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MURCHISON'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Roderick</span>) Siluria; or, a History of the +Oldest rocks containing Organic Remains. Map and Plates. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Memoirs. With Notices of his Contemporaries, +and Rise and Progress of Palæozoic Geology. By <span class="smcap">Archibald Geikie</span>. +Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">MURRAY'S RAILWAY READING. Containing:—</p> +<ul class="none"> + +<li><span class="smcap">Wellington.</span> By <span class="smcap">Lord Ellesmere</span>. 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Nimrod on the Chase.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Music and Dress.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Milman's Fall of Jerusalem.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Mahon's "Forty-Five."</span> 3<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Life of Theodore Hook.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Deeds of Naval Daring.</span> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Honey Bee.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Æsop's Fables.</span> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Nimrod on the Turf.</span> 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Art of Dining.</span> 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Mahon's Joan of Arc.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Head's Emigrant.</span> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Nimrod on the Road.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Croker on the Guillotine.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Hollway's Norway.</span> 2<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Maurel's Wellington.</span> 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Campbell's Life of Bacon.</span> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Flower Garden.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Taylor's Notes from Life.</span> 2<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Rejected Addresses.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Penn's Hints on Angling.</span> 1<i>s.</i></li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">MUSTERS' (<span class="smcap">Capt.</span>) Patagonians; a Year's Wanderings over +Untrodden Ground from the Straits of Magellan to the Rio Negro. +Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NAPIER'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Chas.</span>) Life, Journals, and Letters. Portraits. +4 Vols. Crown 8vo. 48<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Sir Wm.</span>) Life and Letters. Portraits. 2 Vols. +Crown 8vo. 28<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— English Battles and Sieges of the Peninsular War. +Portrait. Post 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NAPOLEON <span class="smcap">at Fontainebleau and Elba</span>. A Journal of +Occurrences and Notes of Conversations. By <span class="smcap">Sir Neil Campbell</span>, +C.B. With a Memoir. By <span class="smcap">Rev. A. N. C. Maclachlan</span>, M.A. Portrait. +8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NASMYTH <span class="smcap">AND</span> CARPENTER. The Moon. Considered as a +Planet, a World, and a Satellite. With Illustrations from Drawings +made with the aid of Powerful Telescopes, Woodcuts, &c. 4to. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NAUTICAL ALMANAC (<span class="smcap">The</span>). (<i>By Authority.</i>) 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NAVY LIST. (Monthly and Quarterly.) Post 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">NEW TESTAMENT. With Short Explanatory Commentary. +By <span class="smcap">Archdeacon Churton</span>, M.A., and <span class="smcap">Archdeacon Basil Jones</span>, M.A. +With 110 authentic Views, &c. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 21<i>s.</i> <i>bound</i>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">NEWTH'S (<span class="smcap">Samuel</span>) First Book of Natural Philosophy; an Introduction +to the Study of Statics, Dynamics, Hydrostatics, Optics, and +Acoustics, with numerous Examples. Small 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Elements of Mechanics, including Hydrostatics, +with numerous Examples. Small 8vo. 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Mathematical Examinations. A Graduated +Series of Elementary Examples in Arithmetic, Algebra, Logarithms, +Trigonometry, and Mechanics. Small 8vo. 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NICHOLS' (J. G.) Pilgrimages to Walsingham and Canterbury. +By <span class="smcap">Erasmus</span>. Translated, with Notes. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Sir George</span>) History of the English, Irish and +Scotch Poor Laws. 4 Vols. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">NICOLAS' (<span class="smcap">Sir Harris</span>) Historic Peerage of England. Exhibiting +the Origin, Descent, and Present State of every Title of Peerage +which has existed in this Country since the Conquest. By +<span class="smcap">William Courthope</span>. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NIMROD, On the Chace—Turf—and Road. With Portrait and +Plates. Crown 8vo. 5<i>s.</i> Or with Coloured Plates, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">NORDHOFF'S (<span class="smcap">Chas.</span>) Communistic Societies of the United +States; including Detailed Accounts of the Shakers, The Amana, +Oneida, Bethell, Aurora, Icarian and other existing Societies; with +Particulars of their Religious Creeds, Industries, and Present Condition. +With 40 Illustrations. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">OLD LONDON; Papers read at the Archæological Institute. +By various Authors. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ORMATHWAITE'S (<span class="smcap">Lord</span>) Astronomy and Geology—Darwin and +Buckle—Progress and Civilisation. Crown 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">OWEN'S (<span class="smcap">Lieut.-Col.</span>) Principles and Practice of Modern Artillery, +including Artillery Material, Gunnery, and Organisation and Use of +Artillery in Warfare. With Illustrations. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">OXENHAM'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. W.</span>) English Notes for Latin Elegiacs; designed +for early Proficients in the Art of Latin Versification, with Prefatory +Rules of Composition in Elegiac Metre. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PALGRAVE'S (R. H. I.) Local Taxation of Great Britain and Ireland. +8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Notes on Banking in Great Britain and Ireland, +Sweden, Denmark, and Hamburg</span>, with some Remarks on +the amount of Bills in circulation, both Inland and Foreign. 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PALLISER'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Brittany and its Byeways, its Inhabitants, +and Antiquities. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Mottoes for Monuments, or Epitaphs selected for +General Use and Study. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PARIS' (<span class="smcap">Dr.</span>) Philosophy in Sport made Science in Earnest; +or, the First Principles of Natural Philosophy inculcated by aid of the +Toys and Sports of Youth. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PARKMAN'S (<span class="smcap">Francis</span>) Discovery of the Great West; or, The +Valleys of the Mississippi and the Lakes of North America. An +Historical Narrative. Map. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PARKYNS' (<span class="smcap">Mansfield</span>) Three Years' Residence in Abyssinia: +with Travels in that Country. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PEEK PRIZE ESSAYS. The Maintenance of the Church of +England as an Established Church. By <span class="smcap">Rev. Charles Hole</span>—<span class="smcap">Rev. +R. Watson Dixon</span>—and <span class="smcap">Rev. Julius Lloyd</span>. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PEEL'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Robert</span>) Memoirs. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PENN'S (<span class="smcap">Richard</span>) Maxims and Hints for an Angler and Chess-player. +Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PERCY'S (<span class="smcap">John</span>, M.D.) Metallurgy. Vol. I., Part 1. <span class="smcap">Fuel</span>, +Wood. Peat, Coal, Charcoal, Coke, Refractory Materials, Fire-Clays, +&c. With Illustrations. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Vol. I., Part 2. Copper, Zinc, Brass. With Illustrations. +8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In the Press.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Vol. II. Iron and Steel. With Illustrations. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Vol. III. Lead, including part of <span class="smcap">Silver</span>. With Illustrations. +8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Vols. IV. and V. Gold, Silver, and Mercury, Platinum, +Tin, Nickel, Cobalt, Antimony, Bismuth, Arsenic, and other Metals. +With Illustrations. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">PERSIA'S (<span class="smcap">Shah of</span>) Diary during his Tour through Europe in +1873. Translated from the Original. By <span class="smcap">J. W. Redhouse</span>. With +Portrait and Coloured Title. Crown 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PHILLIPS' (<span class="smcap">John</span>) Memoirs of William Smith. 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Geology of Yorkshire, The Coast, and Limestone +District. Plates. 2 Vols. 4to.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Rivers, Mountains, and Sea Coast of Yorkshire. +With Essays on the Climate, Scenery, and Ancient Inhabitants. +Plates. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Samuel</span>) Literary Essays from "The Times." With +Portrait. 2 Vols. Fcap. 8vo. 7<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">POPE'S (<span class="smcap">Alexander</span>) Works. With Introductions and Notes, +by <span class="smcap">Rev. Whitwell Elwin</span>. Vols. I., II., VI., VII., VIII. With Portraits. +8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">PORTER'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. J. L.</span>) Damascus, Palmyra, and Lebanon. With +Travels among the Giant Cities of Bashan and the Hauran. Map and +Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PRAYER-BOOK (<span class="smcap">Illustrated</span>), with Borders, Initials, Vignettes, +&c. Edited, with Notes, by <span class="smcap">Rev. Thos. James</span>. Medium +8vo. 18<i>s.</i> <i>cloth</i>; 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>calf</i>; 36<i>s.</i> <i>morocco</i>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES. A Brief Memoir. +With Selections from her Correspondence and other unpublished +Papers. By <span class="smcap">Lady Rose Weigall</span>. With Portrait. 8vo. 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PUSS IN BOOTS. With 12 Illustrations. By <span class="smcap">Otto Speckter</span>. +16mo. 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Or coloured, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">PRINCIPLES AT STAKE. Essays on Church Questions of the +Day. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i> Contents:—</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>Ritualism and Uniformity.—Benjamin +Shaw.</li> +<li>The Episcopate.—Bishop of Bath and +Wells.</li> +<li>The Priesthood.—Dean of Canterbury.</li> +<li>National Education.—Rev. Alexander +R. Grant.</li> +<li>Doctrine of the Eucharist.—Rev. G. +H. Sumner.</li> +<li>Scripture and Ritual.—Canon Bernard.</li> +<li>Church in South Africa.—Arthur +Mills.</li> +<li>Schismatical Tendency of Ritualism.—Rev. +Dr. Salmon.</li> +<li>Revisions of the Liturgy.—Rev. W. G. +Humphry.</li> +<li>Parties and Party Spirit.—Dean of +Chester.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">PRIVY COUNCIL JUDGMENTS in Ecclesiastical Cases relating +to Doctrine and Discipline. With Historical Introduction, +by <span class="smcap">G. C. Brodrick</span> and <span class="smcap">W. H. Fremantle</span>. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">QUARTERLY REVIEW (<span class="smcap">The</span>). 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RAE'S (<span class="smcap">Edward</span>) Land of the North Wind; or Travels among +the Laplanders and Samoyedes, and along the Shores of the White +Sea. With Map and Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RAMBLES in the Syrian Deserts. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RANKE'S (<span class="smcap">Leopold</span>) History of the Popes of Rome during the +16th and 17th Centuries. Translated from the German by <span class="smcap">Sarah +Austin</span>. 3 Vols. 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RASSAM'S (<span class="smcap">Hormuzd</span>) Narrative of the British Mission to Abyssinia. +With Notices of the Countries Traversed from Massowah to +Magdala. Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 28<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RAWLINSON'S (<span class="smcap">Canon</span>) Herodotus. A New English Version. +Edited with Notes and Essays. Maps and Woodcut. 4 Vols. +8vo. 48<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Five Great Monarchies of Chaldæa, Assyria, +Media, Babylonia, and Persia. With Maps and Illustrations. 3 Vols. +8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Sir Henry</span>) England and Russia in the East; a +Series of Papers on the Political and Geographical Condition of Central +Asia. Map 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">REED'S (E. J.) Shipbuilding in Iron and Steel; a Practical +Treatise, giving full details of Construction, Processes of Manufacture, +and Building Arrangements. With 5 Plans and 250 Woodcuts. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Iron-Clad Ships; their Qualities, Performances, and +Cost. With Chapters on Turret Ships, Iron-Clad Rams, &c. With +Illustrations. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">REJECTED ADDRESSES (<span class="smcap">The</span>). By <span class="smcap">James and Horace Smith</span>. +Woodcuts Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; or <i>Popular Edition</i>, Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RESIDENCE IN BULGARIA; or, Notes on the Resources and +Administration of Turkey, &c. By <span class="smcap">S. G. B. St. Clair</span> and <span class="smcap">Charles A. +Brophy</span>. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">REYNOLDS' (<span class="smcap">Sir Joshua</span>) Life and Times. By <span class="smcap">C. R. Leslie</span>, +R. A. and <span class="smcap">Tom Taylor</span>. Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">RICARDO'S (<span class="smcap">David</span>) Political Works. With a Notice of his +Life and Writings. By <span class="smcap">J. R. M'Culloch</span>. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RIPA'S (<span class="smcap">Father</span>) Thirteen Years' Residence at the Court of Peking. +Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ROBERTSON'S (<span class="smcap">Canon</span>) History of the Christian Church, from +the Apostolic Age to the Reformation, 1517. <i>Library Edition.</i> 4 Vols. +8vo. <i>Cabinet Edition.</i> 8 Vols. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— How shall we Conform to the Liturgy. 12mo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ROME. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Liddell</span> and <span class="smcap">Smith</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">ROWLAND'S (<span class="smcap">David</span>) Manual of the English Constitution. +Its Rise, Growth, and Present State. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Laws of Nature the Foundation of Morals. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ROBSON'S (E. R.) <span class="smcap">School Architecture</span>. Being Practical Remarks +on the Planning, Designing, Building, and Furnishing of +School-houses. With 300 Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RUNDELL'S (<span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>) Modern Domestic Cookery. Fcap. 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">RUXTON'S (<span class="smcap">George F.</span>) Travels in Mexico; with Adventures +among the Wild Tribes and Animals of the Prairies and Rocky Mountains. +Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ROBINSON'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. Dr.</span>) Biblical Researches in Palestine and the +Adjacent Regions, 1838-52. Maps. 3 Vols. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Physical Geography of the Holy Land. Post 8vo. +10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Wm.</span>) Alpine Flowers for English Gardens. With +70 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Wild Gardens; or, our Groves and Shrubberies +made beautiful by the Naturalization of Hardy Exotic Plants. With +Frontispiece. Small 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Sub-Tropical Gardens; or, Beauty of Form in the +Flower Garden. With Illustrations. Small 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SALE'S (<span class="smcap">Sir Robert</span>) Brigade in Affghanistan. With an Account of +the Defence of Jellalabad. By <span class="smcap">Rev. G. R. Gleig</span>. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SCHLIEMANN'S (<span class="smcap">Dr. Henry</span>) Troy and Its Remains. A Narrative +of Researches and Discoveries made on the Site of Ilium, and in +the Trojan Plain. Edited by <span class="smcap">Philip Smith</span>, B.A. With Maps, Views, +and 500 Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SCOTT'S (<span class="smcap">Sir G. G.</span>) Secular and Domestic Architecture, Present +and Future. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Dean</span>) University Sermons. Post 8vo. 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SHADOWS OF A SICK ROOM. With a Preface by Canon +<span class="smcap">Liddon</span>. 16mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SCROPE'S (G. P.) Geology and Extinct Volcanoes of Central +France. Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SHAW'S (T. B.) Manual of English Literature. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Specimens of English Literature. Selected from the +Chief Writers. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Robert</span>) Visit to High Tartary, Yarkand, and Kashgar +(formerly Chinese Tartary), and Return Journey over the Karakorum +Pass. With Map and Illustrations. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SHIRLEY'S (<span class="smcap">Evelyn P.</span>) Deer and Deer Parks; or some Account +of English Parks, with Notes on the Management of Deer. Illustrations. +4to. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SIERRA LEONE; Described in Letters to Friends at Home. By +<span class="smcap">A Lady</span>. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SINCLAIR'S (<span class="smcap">Archdeacon</span>) Old Times and Distant Places. A +Series of Sketches. Crown 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SMILES' (<span class="smcap">Samuel</span>) British Engineers; from the Earliest Period +to the death of the Stephensons. With Illustrations. 5 Vols. Crown +8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— George and Robert Stephenson. Illustrations. Medium +8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Boulton and Watt. Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Self-Help. With Illustrations of Conduct and Perseverance. +Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i> Or in French, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Character. A Sequel to "<span class="smcap">Self-Help</span>." Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Thrift.</span> A Companion Volume to "Self-Help" and +"Character." Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Boy's Voyage round the World. With Illustrations. +Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">STANLEY'S (<span class="smcap">Dean</span>) Sinai and Palestine, in connexion with their +History. <i>20th Thousand.</i> Map. 8vo. 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Bible in the Holy Land; Extracted from the above +Work. <i>Second Edition.</i> Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Eastern Church. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> Plans. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Jewish Church. 1st & 2nd Series. From the Earliest +Times to the Captivity. 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Third Series.</i> From the Captivity to the +Destruction of Jerusalem. 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Church of Scotland. 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Memorials of Canterbury Cathedral. Woodcuts. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Westminster Abbey. With Illustrations. +8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Sermons during a Tour in the East. 8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <span class="smcap">Addresses and Charges of the late Bishop Stanley.</span> +With Memoir. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SMITH'S (<span class="smcap">Dr. Wm</span>) Dictionary of the Bible; its Antiquities, +Biography, Geography, and Natural History. Illustrations. 3 Vols. +8vo. 105<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Concise Bible Dictionary. With 300 Illustrations. +Medium 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller Bible Dictionary. With Illustrations. Post +8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Christian Antiquities. Comprising the History, Institutions, +and Antiquities of the Christian Church. With Illustrations. +Vol. I. 8vo. 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Biography and Doctrines; from the Times of the +Apostles to the Age of Charlemagne. 8vo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In Preparation.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Atlas of Ancient Geography—Biblical and Classical. +Folio. 6<i>l.</i> 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Greek and Roman Antiquities. With 500 Illustrations. +Medium 8vo. 28<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Biography and Mythology. With +600 Illustrations. 3 Vols. Medium 8vo. 4<i>l.</i> 4<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Geography. 2 Vols. With 500 +Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 56<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Classical Dictionary of Mythology, Biography, and +Geography. 1 Vol. With 750 Woodcuts. 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller Classical Dictionary. With 200 Woodcuts. +Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Greek and Roman Antiquities. With 200 Woodcuts. +Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Latin-English Dictionary. With Tables of the Roman +Calendar, Measures, Weights, and Money. Medium 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller Latin-English Dictionary. 12mo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— English-Latin Dictionary. Medium 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller English-Latin Dictionary. 12mo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— School Manual of English Grammar, with Copious +Exercises. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Modern Geography. 12mo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>Nearly ready.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Primary English Grammar. 16mo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of Britain. 12mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— French Principia. Part I. A First Course, containing a +Grammar, Delectus, Exercises, and Vocabularies. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part II. A Reading Book, containing +Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the +History of France. With Grammatical Questions, Notes and copious +Etymological Dictionary. 12mo. 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part III. Prose Composition, containing +a Systematic Course of Exercises on the Syntax, with the Principal +Rules of Syntax. 12mo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In the Press.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— German Principia, Part I. A First German Course, +containing a Grammar, Delectus, Exercise Book, and Vocabularies. +12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part II. A Reading Book; +containing Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and +Scenes from the History of Germany. With Grammatical Questions, +Notes, and Dictionary. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part III. An Introduction +to German Prose Composition; containing a Systematic Course +of Exercises on the Syntax, with the Principal Rules of Syntax. 12mo.<br /> +<span class="left65">[<i>In the Press.</i></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Principia Latina—Part I. First Latin Course, +containing a Grammar, Delectus, and Exercise Book, with Vocabularies. +12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">In this Edition the Cases of the Nouns, Adjectives, and Pronouns are +arranged both as in the <span class="smcap">ordinary Grammars</span> and as in the <span class="smcap">Public +School Primer</span>, together with the corresponding Exercises.</p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part II. A Reading-book of Mythology, +Geography, Roman Antiquities, and History. With Notes and +Dictionary. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part III. A Poetry Book. Hexameters +and Pentameters; Eclog. Ovidianæ; Latin Prosody. 12mo. +3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part IV. Prose Composition. Rules of +Syntax with Examples, Explanations of Synonyms, and Exercises +on the Syntax. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part V. Short Tales and Anecdotes +for Translation into Latin. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Latin-English Vocabulary and First Latin-English +Dictionary for Phædrus, Cornelius Nepos, and Caesar. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Student's Latin Grammar. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller Latin Grammar. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Tacitus, Germania, Agricola, &c. With English Notes. +12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Initia Græca, Part I. A First Greek Course, containing +a Grammar, Delectus, and Exercise-book. With Vocabularies. +12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part II. A Reading Book. Containing +Short Tales, Anecdotes, Fables, Mythology, and Grecian History. +12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Part III. Prose Composition. Containing +the Rules of Syntax, with copious Examples and Exercises. 12mo. +3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Student's Greek Grammar. By <span class="smcap">Professor Curtius</span>. +Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller Greek Grammar. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Greek Accidence. Extracted from the above work. +12mo. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Plato. The Apology of Socrates, the Crito, and Part of +the Phædo; with Notes in English from Stallbaum and Schleiermacher's +Introductions. 12mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Smaller Scripture History. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Ancient History. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—————— Geography. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Rome. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Greece. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Classical Mythology. Woodcuts 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— History of England. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— English Literature. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— Specimens of English Literature. 16mo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Philip</span>) History of the Ancient World, from the +Creation to the Fall of the Roman Empire, <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 455. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> +3 Vols. 8vo. 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Rev. A. C.</span>) Nile and its Banks. Woodcuts. 2 Vols. +Post 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SIMMONS' (<span class="smcap">Capt.</span>) Constitution and Practice of Courts-Martial. +<i>Seventh Edition.</i> 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">STUDENT'S OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY; from the Creation +to the Return of the Jews from Captivity. Maps and Woodcuts. Post +8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— NEW TESTAMENT HISTORY. With an Introduction +connecting the History of the Old and New Testaments. Maps +and Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. A History of the +Christian Church from its Foundation to the Eve of the Protestant +Reformation. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE EAST; Egypt, +Assyria, Babylonia, Media, Persia, Asia Minor, and Phoenicia. Woodcuts. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— GEOGRAPHY. By <span class="smcap">Rev. W. L. Bevan</span>. +Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— HISTORY OF GREECE; from the Earliest +Times to the Roman Conquest. By <span class="smcap">Wm. Smith</span>, D.C.L. Woodcuts. +Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i><br /> +⁂ Questions on the above Work, 12mo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— HISTORY OF ROME; from the Earliest Times +to the Establishment of the Empire. By <span class="smcap">Dean Liddell</span>. Woodcuts. +Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— GIBBON'S Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. +Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— HALLAM'S HISTORY OF EUROPE during the +Middle Ages. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— HALLAM'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND; from the +Accession of Henry VII. to the Death of George II. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— HUME'S History of England from the Invasion +of Julius Cæsar to the Revolution in 1688. Continued down to 1868. +Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i><br /> +⁂ Questions on the above Work, 12mo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— HISTORY OF FRANCE; from the Earliest Times +to the Establishment of the Second Empire, 1852. By <span class="smcap">Rev. H. W. +Jervis</span>. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— ENGLISH LANGUAGE. By <span class="smcap">Geo. P. Marsh</span>. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">———— LITERATURE. By <span class="smcap">T. B. Shaw</span>, M.A. +Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— SPECIMENS of English Literature from the Chief +Writers. By <span class="smcap">T. B. Shaw</span>, Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— MODERN GEOGRAPHY; Mathematical, Physical, +and Descriptive. By <span class="smcap">Rev. W. L. Bevan</span>. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— MORAL PHILOSOPHY. By <span class="smcap">William Fleming</span>, +D.D. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— BLACKSTONE'S Commentaries on the Laws of +England. By <span class="smcap">R. Malcolm Kerr</span>, LL.D. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">SPALDING'S (<span class="smcap">Captain</span>) Tale of Frithiof. Translated from the +Swedish of <span class="smcap">Esaias Tegner</span>. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">STEPHEN'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. W. R.</span>) Life and Times of St. Chrysostom. +With Portrait. 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">ST. JAMES (<span class="smcap">The</span>) LECTURES. Companions for the Devout +Life. By the following authors. 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Imitation of Christ. Rev. Dr. Farrar.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Pascal's Pensees. Dean Church.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">S. François de Sales. Dean Goulbourn.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Baxter's Saints' Rest. Archbishop Trench.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">S. Augustine's Confessions. Bishop Alexander.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Jeremy Taylor's Holt Living and Dying. Rev. Dr Humphry</span></li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging">ST. JOHN'S (<span class="smcap">Charles</span>) Wild Sports and Natural History of the +Highlands. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— (<span class="smcap">Bayle</span>) Adventures in the Libyan Desert. Post 8vo. 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">STORIES FOR DARLINGS. With Illustrations. 16mo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">STREET'S (G. E.) Gothic Architecture in Spain. From Personal +Observations made during several Journeys. With Illustrations. +Royal 8vo. 30<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— in Italy, chiefly in Brick +and Marble. With Notes of Tours in the North of Italy. With 60 Illustrations. +Royal 8vo. 26<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">STANHOPE'S (<span class="smcap">Earl</span>) England during the Reign of Queen Anne, +1701-13. <i>Library Edition.</i> 8vo. 16<i>s.</i> <i>Cabinet Edition.</i> Portrait. 2 Vols. +Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— from the Peace of Utrecht to the +Peace of Versailles, 1713-83. <i>Library Edition.</i> 7 vols. 8vo. 93<i>s.</i> +<i>Cabinet Edition</i>, 7 vols. Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— British India, from its Origin to 1783. 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— History of "Forty-Five." Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Historical and Critical Essays. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life of Belisarius. Post 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Condé. Post 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— William Pitt. Portraits. 4 Vols. 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Miscellanies. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 13<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Story of Joan of Arc. Fcap. 8vo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Addresses Delivered on Various Occasions. 16mo. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">STYFFE'S (<span class="smcap">Knutt</span>) Strength of Iron and Steel. 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Translated by <span class="smcap">Chas. +Heneage</span>. Illustrations. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">THOMS' (W. J.) Longevity of Man; its Facts and its Fiction. +Including Observations on the more Remarkable Instances. Post 8vo. +10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">THOMSON'S (<span class="smcap">Archbishop</span>) Lincoln's Inn Sermons. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life in the Light of God's Word. Post 8vo. 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">TOCQUEVILLE'S State of Society in France before the Revolution, +1789, and on the Causes which led to that Event. Translated by <span class="smcap">Henry +Reeve</span>. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">TOMLINSON (<span class="smcap">Charles</span>); The Sonnet; Its Origin, Structure, and +Place in Poetry. With translations from Dante, Petrarch, &c. Post +8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">TOZER'S (<span class="smcap">Rev. H. F.</span>) Highlands of Turkey, with Visits to Mounts +Ida, Athos, Olympus, and Pelion. 2 Vols Crown 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Lectures on the Geography of Greece. Map. Post +8vo. 9<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">TRISTRAM'S (<span class="smcap">Canon</span>) Great Sahara. Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Land of Moab's Travels and Discoveries on the East +Side of the Dead Sea and the Jordan. Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">TWISLETON (<span class="smcap">Edward</span>). The Tongue not Essential to Speech, +with Illustrations of the Power of Speech in the case of the African +Confessors. Post 8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">TWISS' (<span class="smcap">Horace</span>) Life of Lord Eldon. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">TYLOR'S (E. B.) Early History of Mankind, and Development +of Civilization. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Primitive Culture; the Development of Mythology, +Philosophy, Religion, Art, and Custom. 2 Vols. 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">VAMBERY'S (<span class="smcap">Arminius</span>) Travels from Teheran across the Turkoman +Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian. Illustrations. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">VAN LENNEP'S (<span class="smcap">Henry J.</span>) Travels in Asia Minor. With +Illustrations of Biblical Literature, and Archæology. With Woodcuts, +2 Vols. Post 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Modern Customs and Manners of Bible Lands, +in illustration of Scripture. With Maps and 300 Illustrations. +2 Vols. 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">WELLINGTON'S Despatches during his Campaigns in India, +Denmark, Portugal, Spain, the Low Countries, and France. Edited +by <span class="smcap">Colonel Gurwood</span>. 8 Vols. 8vo. 20<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Supplementary Despatches, relating to India, +Ireland, Denmark, Spanish America, Spain, Portugal, France, Congress +of Vienna, Waterloo and Paris. Edited by his <span class="smcap">Son</span>. 14 Vols. +8vo. 20<i>s.</i> each. ⁂ <i>An Index.</i> 8vo. 20<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Civil and Political Correspondence. Edited by +his <span class="smcap">Son</span>. Vols. I. to V. 8vo. 20<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Despatches (Selections from). 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Speeches in Parliament. 2 Vols. 8vo. 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">WHEELER'S (G.) Choice of a Dwelling; a Practical Handbook of +Useful Information on Building a House. Plans. Post 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">WHYMPER'S (<span class="smcap">Frederick</span>) Travels and Adventures in Alaska. +Illustrations. 8vo. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">WILBERFORCE'S (<span class="smcap">Bishop</span>) Essays on Various Subjects. 2 vols. +8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Life of William Wilberforce. Portrait. Crown +8vo. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">WILKINSON'S (<span class="smcap">Sir J. G.</span>) Popular Account of the Ancient +Egyptians. With 500 Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">WOOD'S (<span class="smcap">Captain</span>) Source of the Oxus. With the Geography +of the Valley of the Oxus. By <span class="smcap">Col. Yule</span>. Map. 8vo. 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">WORDS OF HUMAN WISDOM. Collected and Arranged by +E. S. With a Preface by <span class="smcap">Canon Liddon</span>. 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