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Woodworking For Beginners, by Charles G. Wheeler: A Project Gutenberg eBook
@@ -224,45 +224,7 @@ p.quotsig { text-align:right; margin-top:0;}
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-
-
-<pre>
-
-Project Gutenberg's Woodworking for Beginners, by Charles Gardner Wheeler
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Woodworking for Beginners
- A Manual for Amateurs
-
-Author: Charles Gardner Wheeler
-
-Release Date: August 30, 2013 [EBook #43604]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WOODWORKING FOR BEGINNERS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Albert László, Mark Young, P. G. Máté and the
-Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-(This file was produced from images generously made
-available by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43604 ***</div>
<div class="tr covernote">
<p>Transcriber's Note</p>
@@ -3736,7 +3698,7 @@ together.</p>
<p class="caption">Fig. 109.</p>
</div>
-<p>If you have a piece of fairly good joist, from 1&frac12;" × 3" to 3" ×
+<p>If you have a piece of fairly good joist, from 1&frac12;" × 3" to 3" ×
6", you can use it for the tops of your horses. Saw off two pieces
from 2' to 3' long. Mark the best sides for the top. Mark each
end like Fig. 106 (showing top and bottom) with the pencil,
@@ -3992,7 +3954,7 @@ on the same principle.
The angular stop or
stops must be fitted
to make the angles exactly
-45°. A sawed mitre holds glue better than a planed mitre,
+45°. A sawed mitre holds glue better than a planed mitre,
but sawed mitres often require trimming with the plane to get
a perfect fit.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p>
@@ -4219,7 +4181,7 @@ Part II.) and then proceed as above.</p>
</div>
<p>Fig. 140 shows a good form of cabinet. Make a tight box,
-perhaps 2' × 3' × 6" to 9", the sides and ends of <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" stock, and
+perhaps 2' × 3' × 6" to 9", the sides and ends of <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" stock, and
the top and bottom (<i>i.e.</i>, the front and back of the cabinet)
of &frac12;" stock. Saw it
open carefully on the
@@ -5503,7 +5465,7 @@ preceding form.</p>
<p>For the frame, small
joists, or strips of plank
-of any size from 1&frac12;" × 2" to 2" × 3" can be used. First get out the
+of any size from 1&frac12;" × 2" to 2" × 3" can be used. First get out the
sills or bottom pieces of the framework, nailing them together at
the corners to form a rectangular frame, as shown in Fig. 189.</p>
@@ -5526,7 +5488,7 @@ as the boarding adds strength to the joints. The frame can be
temporarily held in place until the boarding is put on by nailing
on as many diagonal strips (Fig. 189) as may be required. Two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>
rafters at each end should next be put in place, their ends having
-been cut at an angle of 45° (see <i>Mitreing</i>) and the upper ends
+been cut at an angle of 45° (see <i>Mitreing</i>) and the upper ends
being nailed to a strip of board which serves for a ridge-pole. An
intermediate rafter on each side will add stiffness to the roof.
The floor should next be
@@ -5644,8 +5606,8 @@ and ell in the
way shown in
Fig. 189.
These sills can
-be from 1&frac12;" × 2"
-to 2" × 3". Perhaps
+be from 1&frac12;" × 2"
+to 2" × 3". Perhaps
an easier
way is that shown
in Fig. 192, in
@@ -6112,10 +6074,10 @@ to plane the upper surfaces by hand,
as the planer will leave them fairly
smooth, though they will look a little nicer smoothed by hand.
Plane the edges. Next get out eight cross-bars or cleats 18"
-long × <sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" thick and from 1&frac12;" to 3" wide. If wide they can
+long × <sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" thick and from 1&frac12;" to 3" wide. If wide they can
be tapered at the edges, and if narrow, the edges should be
rounded (Fig. 224). Get out also two or three cleats 18" long,
-&frac14;" thick, and 1&frac14;" wide, and one piece 18" long and about &frac34;" × <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>"
+&frac14;" thick, and 1&frac14;" wide, and one piece 18" long and about &frac34;" × <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>"
(half of a hardwood broomstick will do).</p>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;">
@@ -6719,7 +6681,7 @@ to 5' 6", the width inside (between the bars) from 14" to
<p>Before beginning work read carefully <i>Marking</i>, <i>Rule</i>, <i>Square</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>
<i>Saw</i>, <i>Plane</i>, in <a href="#PART_V">Part V</a>., and look up any other references.</p>
-<p>The base of the apparatus can be simply made of 2" × 6"
+<p>The base of the apparatus can be simply made of 2" × 6"
planks, as shown in Fig. 261, and fastened by screws (see
<i>Screws</i>), or, as shown in Fig. 262, the pieces
can be halved at their intersections (see
@@ -6733,13 +6695,13 @@ the base can be somewhat lighter.</p>
</div>
<p>The upright posts should be of strong wood
-not less than 2" × 4" (unless for a very small
+not less than 2" × 4" (unless for a very small
pair of bars) and should be mortised at top
and bottom, as shown in Figs. 263 and 264 (see <i>Mortising</i>).
These joints should be pinned.</p>
<p>The bars themselves should be of the best white ash (hickory,
-oak, hard pine can be used), not less than 2" × 3" (unless for a
+oak, hard pine can be used), not less than 2" × 3" (unless for a
small pair of bars). The arrangement
and object of the
iron braces is plain.</p>
@@ -6780,7 +6742,7 @@ blocks can be screwed to the floor around the base of each post
so as to form a socket into which the post will fit.</p>
<p>Parallel bars can be readily made for outdoor use by simply
-setting four upright posts (not less than 3" × 4") firmly in the
+setting four upright posts (not less than 3" × 4") firmly in the
ground, at the same distances apart as specified for the movable
bars described above, and fastening the bars to the tops of the
posts by mortise and tenon, as already shown (Fig. 263). The
@@ -6802,7 +6764,7 @@ wood-worker is shown in Fig. 265.</p>
<p>First make the upright posts or guides. These are somewhat
like a trough in shape, side boards about 6" wide being screwed
-(see <i>Screws</i>) on the sides of a 2" × 3" joist. Fig. 266 shows sections
+(see <i>Screws</i>) on the sides of a 2" × 3" joist. Fig. 266 shows sections
in the middle and at each end, blocks being inserted at the
ends for strength. The joist can be of any strong wood. The
side boards, which serve as guides for
@@ -6962,7 +6924,7 @@ clear, straight-grained white ash.</p>
</div>
<p>First make the base or framework. Get out two pieces of
-2" × 3" plank for the
+2" × 3" plank for the
outside pieces (to stand
on edge) and <em class="gesperrt">screw
blocks</em> of the same
@@ -6977,7 +6939,7 @@ about 22" apart at the rear end. Fit a cross-tie to connect these
stringers at about 2' from the forward end.</p>
<p>Another cross-bar, resting on the stringers, is placed nearer the
-rear end, and about 1' from the rear end a piece of 3" × 4" joist
+rear end, and about 1' from the rear end a piece of 3" × 4" joist
is fitted between the stringers and held in place by a bolt passed
through it and the stringers. This should be loose enough to
allow the block to turn.</p>
@@ -7177,7 +7139,7 @@ Think first whether your design is suited for the purpose
intended. If you start to make a case for your books,
select or make your design accordingly, and do not be misled,
by the multitude of overelaborated articles with which
-the market is flooded, into making a parlour bric-à-brac
+the market is flooded, into making a parlour bric-à-brac
cabinet, all built up of turning, and jig-sawing, and machine-made
carvings, too complicated and fragile for practical
use, with the result that the books continue to be stored
@@ -9902,13 +9864,13 @@ that shown in Fig. 371.</p>
in <a href="#PART_V">Part V</a>., and look up any
other references.</p>
-<p>By using heavier cleats, as 2" × 2"
-or 2" × 4", on the ends, those on the
+<p>By using heavier cleats, as 2" × 2"
+or 2" × 4", on the ends, those on the
front and back can be omitted, and
the boards nailed directly to the
sides. An arrangement for one end
(that with the door) is suggested in
-Fig. 370, 2" × 2" or 2" × 4" joist being
+Fig. 370, 2" × 2" or 2" × 4" joist being
used.</p>
<p>A shelf or counter can be fitted inside the drop-window for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span>
@@ -9978,7 +9940,7 @@ be put together in the way already shown.</p>
<i>Saw</i>, <i>Plane</i>, <i>Nailing</i>, <i>Screws</i>, <i>Painting</i>, in <a href="#PART_V">Part V</a>., and look up
any other references.</p>
-<p>The ground dimensions can be 5' or 6' × 7' or 8'. The ends
+<p>The ground dimensions can be 5' or 6' × 7' or 8'. The ends
must be made higher than the sides, as shown, to allow for the
slant of the roof. Mark lines, using a straight-edge, to give the
slant for both sides of the roof, and saw the boards off by these
@@ -10015,7 +9977,7 @@ above and below it, as shown in Fig.
<p>The roof-boards can also be laid the other way by putting in a
ridge-piece in the form of a piece of studding or joist of any size<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span>
-not less than 2" × 2" (Fig. 377), or even a board on edge, to
+not less than 2" × 2" (Fig. 377), or even a board on edge, to
which the upper ends of the roof-boards can be nailed.</p>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
@@ -10052,7 +10014,7 @@ and then fastened together.</p>
<i>Saw</i>, <i>Plane</i>, <i>Nailing</i>, <i>Screws</i>, <i>Painting</i>, in <a href="#PART_V">Part V</a>., and look up
any other references.</p>
-<p>The ground dimensions can be 6' or 7' × 8' or 9'. In making
+<p>The ground dimensions can be 6' or 7' × 8' or 9'. In making
the ends where they are cut off at the top to give the slant
for the roof, inside cleats should be used. Mark lines, using
a straight-edge, for the slant for both sides of the roof, and
@@ -10085,7 +10047,7 @@ those already shown.</p>
<p class="caption">Fig. 378.</p>
</div>
-<p>This house can have a floor, which can be made of 2" × 4"
+<p>This house can have a floor, which can be made of 2" × 4"
studding simply nailed together and floored over (Fig. 378),
forming a sort of platform to which the sides and ends can be
nailed when the house is put together; and the best way to make
@@ -10131,7 +10093,7 @@ The boarding runs vertically and the cleats horizontally, as
shown in Fig. 377.</p>
<p>Figs. 380 and 381 show other simple arrangements, the
-ground dimensions of which can be, perhaps, 8' × 12', and
+ground dimensions of which can be, perhaps, 8' × 12', and
which can be put together in the same way as the preceding
cases, with or without a floor, and with the boarding running
vertically or horizontally.</p>
@@ -10391,12 +10353,12 @@ any other references.</p>
</div>
<p>The sills, or the lower timbers of the frame which rest upon
-the foundation, should be got out first, and can be of 4" × 4"
+the foundation, should be got out first, and can be of 4" × 4"
stock, and halved at the ends (see <i>Halving</i>) (Fig. 389). Upon
-these sills is to be set up a 4" × 4" post of the desired length at
+these sills is to be set up a 4" × 4" post of the desired length at
each corner.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span><a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a></p>
-<p>On top of these are placed the plates, which can be of 2" × 4"
+<p>On top of these are placed the plates, which can be of 2" × 4"
studding laid flat and halved at the ends. Be sure to get out
these pieces before beginning to put them together. Toe-nail
the posts to the sills and nail the plates directly down on top of
@@ -10404,7 +10366,7 @@ the posts, keeping the latter in a vertical position by temporarily
nailing on strips of board diagonally, adjusting these until the posts
are vertical and at right angles to the sills (see <i>Plumb</i> and <i>Square</i>).</p>
-<p>Next put in vertical studding (2" × 4") at each side of the door-space,
+<p>Next put in vertical studding (2" × 4") at each side of the door-space,
and at the sides of the window-spaces, allowing a little more
space than the exact widths of the door and window-frames. In
the same way horizontal studding should be fitted in above the
@@ -10417,14 +10379,14 @@ above and below the windows. Just where and how many of
these pieces are to be put in depends upon the arrangement of the
doors and windows, and pieces of vertical studding can be fitted
in at each side of the door and window-spaces and wherever advisable.
-Short braces, with their ends sawed at an angle of 45°,
+Short braces, with their ends sawed at an angle of 45°,
can also be fitted at the corners, where the corner-posts meet the
sills and plates, and be nailed in place to help stiffen the frame.</p>
<p>It will be a convenience in working to lay the floor next. For
this you will require a number of floor-joists. If the building is
-only 8' or 10' wide, 2" × 4" studding will do; but if the width is
-as great as 12', 2" × 6" will be better. These are to be placed on
+only 8' or 10' wide, 2" × 4" studding will do; but if the width is
+as great as 12', 2" × 6" will be better. These are to be placed on
edge on top of the sills, as shown. Place one at each end against
the corner-posts (to which it can be nailed), sawing off each end
so that it will be flush with the outside of the sill. Distribute
@@ -10480,7 +10442,7 @@ and you will have accomplished much towards keeping the
room warm.</p>
<p>The frame is now ready for the roof-timbers. These can be of
-2" × 4" studding, except the ridge-board, which can be any common
+2" × 4" studding, except the ridge-board, which can be any common
board about 6" wide.</p>
<p>To obtain the length of the rafters and the angle at which the
@@ -11065,9 +11027,9 @@ already described under <i>A Workshop</i>, pages 259-264.</p>
shown in Fig. 389, the dimensions of the stock depending upon
the size of the house; but the directions given in these chapters
are intended only for small structures. The sills should be
-4" × 6" or 6" × 6", the corner-posts can be 4" × 4" or 4" × 6," the
-floor-timbers and rafters 2" × 6", although, if the house is quite
-small, 2" × 4" will do for the rafters, which can be braced by
+4" × 6" or 6" × 6", the corner-posts can be 4" × 4" or 4" × 6," the
+floor-timbers and rafters 2" × 6", although, if the house is quite
+small, 2" × 4" will do for the rafters, which can be braced by
"collar beams," or simply horizontal pieces of board nailed
across in the upper part of the roof.</p>
@@ -11097,7 +11059,7 @@ side-plates is shown in Fig.
<p>The frame for the piazza
floor can be arranged as
follows: Fasten a strip of
-2" × 4" joist along the side,
+2" × 4" joist along the side,
spiking it through into the
sill. On this fasten an arrangement
of floor-timbers,
@@ -11109,7 +11071,7 @@ can be varied according to the height you wish the
piazza floor to be relatively to the floor inside.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span></p>
<p>For a quite small structure, or for a temporary one, it will answer
-to make this piazza-floor system of 2" × 6" stock simply sawed
+to make this piazza-floor system of 2" × 6" stock simply sawed
square and spiked together, on the principle shown in Fig. 378,
but for a good house which you wish to be permanent, it is better
to put a little more labour
@@ -11142,7 +11104,7 @@ the piazza. The ends of this sill can rest in gains cut in the end-sills,
and the middle can be supported by one or more posts.</p>
<p>For the stairs, which can be put wherever you wish, take two
-pieces of plank, 2" × 9" or 10", and of sufficient length. Having
+pieces of plank, 2" × 9" or 10", and of sufficient length. Having
determined the points for the top and the bottom of the stairs (by
laying off on the floor in the same way as for the rafters, page
268), lay one of the planks on the floor in the proper position and
@@ -11211,9 +11173,9 @@ in front elevation (Fig. 401) and in side elevation (Fig. 402).</p>
<i>Saw</i>, <i>Plane</i>, <i>Nailing</i>, <i>Painting</i>, in <a href="#PART_V">Part V</a>., and look up any
other references.</p>
-<p>The construction is simple. The frame can be of 2" × 3" stock
+<p>The construction is simple. The frame can be of 2" × 3" stock
(planed), except the sills, which had best not be smaller than
-2" × 4" (on edge). Cross floor-beams can be inserted, as in the
+2" × 4" (on edge). Cross floor-beams can be inserted, as in the
floors of the little houses first shown.</p>
<p>The upright members can, however, rest upon posts set in the
@@ -11404,8 +11366,8 @@ floor of the second story is shown in Fig. 407.</p>
<p>Unless this building is very small (in which case it can only be
used for the storage of oars, rigging, etc.), the sills should be of
-4" × 6" (on edge) or 6" × 6" stock, and the floor-beams of 2" × 6"
-stock. 4" × 4" or 4" × 6" will do for the corner-posts, and 2" × 4"
+4" × 6" (on edge) or 6" × 6" stock, and the floor-beams of 2" × 6"
+stock. 4" × 4" or 4" × 6" will do for the corner-posts, and 2" × 4"
for the studding and rafters for such a small structure as is advisable
for the beginner to attempt.</p>
@@ -11419,12 +11381,12 @@ comparatively small structures.</p>
<p>The outer floor-timbers for the balcony had best be mortised
into the posts (see <i>Mortising</i>). The top rail around the balcony
-can be of 2" × 4" studding, laid flatways, and with the upper
+can be of 2" × 4" studding, laid flatways, and with the upper
angles bevelled (see <i>Bevelling</i>). The balusters can be simply
square pieces nailed into place. The rail and balusters can,
however, be obtained in a great variety of forms at a wood-working
mill, if you prefer to buy them. The braces under the balcony
-can be of 2" × 4" stock. All these outside parts should be
+can be of 2" × 4" stock. All these outside parts should be
planed by machine.</p>
<p>The remaining details do not differ from those of the houses
@@ -11600,7 +11562,7 @@ simple way (Fig.
409) is to make two
mortises or slots,
3&frac12;" apart and 1&frac12;"
-long × <sup>5</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" wide, to
+long × <sup>5</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" wide, to
hold thole pins
(Fig. 410). The cutting can be done wholly in the cleats by
sawing and paring.</p>
@@ -11846,7 +11808,7 @@ as shown in Fig. 418. This will assist in rowing straight.
Fit a piece of <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" board to the curve of the bottom, keeping the
straight edge parallel with the top. Square off the end in
line with the stern, nail the skag firmly to the bottom, and nail a
-stern-post, <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" × 1&frac14;" or 1&frac12;", securely to the stern and the skag.
+stern-post, <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" × 1&frac14;" or 1&frac12;", securely to the stern and the skag.
A rudder can be hung to the stern-post if desired. A centre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span>-board
is sometimes added to a punt, being arranged in the way
shown on page 330. A lee-board is often used on punts and
@@ -12157,7 +12119,7 @@ near the top to help keep the frame in shape until in position.
Next get out two frames like Fig. 430, taking the dimensions
from your plan, two more like Fig. 431, and two like Fig. 432.
To make the stem-and stern-posts, take two pieces of joist, about
-2" × 4" and of sufficient length, and with the chisel and saw cut
+2" × 4" and of sufficient length, and with the chisel and saw cut
a rabbet on each side of each piece, on the principle shown in
Fig. 424. Give these rabbets a good coat of white-lead paint.</p>
@@ -12197,7 +12159,7 @@ on the tops of the frames, to which they should be firmly nailed.</p>
<p>If you wish to sail, a stiff brace or thwart can be put in for the
mast, with a block for a step.</p>
-<p>One or more strips, 1" × &frac12;", can now be placed longitudinally
+<p>One or more strips, 1" × &frac12;", can now be placed longitudinally
on each side of the deck and nailed to the frames.</p>
<p>Additional deck-beams, running from gunwale to gunwale, and
@@ -12401,7 +12363,7 @@ carefully screwed to the stem-and stern-posts.</p>
<p>For additional stiffness, insert a series of ribs (Fig. 435), from
3" to 6" apart, according to their size and stiffness, from bow to
stern. Barrel-hooping can be used and if sound is excellent, or
-strips of ash, oak, or elm, about <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" × &frac14;", can be used. It will not
+strips of ash, oak, or elm, about <sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub>" × &frac14;", can be used. It will not
be necessary to bend these around a form. Those near the middle
can be at once bent into place. As the ends of the boat are
approached, the ribs will require to be rendered more pliable before
@@ -12873,11 +12835,11 @@ how to sail a boat, you can adopt such rig as you think best.</p>
</div>
<p>First get out the backbone. Get a piece of clear spruce, or
-pine, perhaps 12' × 3" × 4". A round spar may be used. Be
+pine, perhaps 12' × 3" × 4". A round spar may be used. Be
careful to select good lumber, as great strain is put upon it. A
piece which has naturally sprung lengthways should be placed
with the convex edge upwards. Next get out the runner-board,
-perhaps 6&frac12;' × 2" × 9", of spruce. Pine is also good, or any
+perhaps 6&frac12;' × 2" × 9", of spruce. Pine is also good, or any
strong wood will do. Choose a clear, sound plank. If naturally
sprung in a bow-like curve, put the convex side upwards. Smooth
the pieces sufficiently to avoid splinters and roughness. Thin
@@ -12910,7 +12872,7 @@ to the backbone as well as to the sides and end.<span class="pagenum"><a name="P
</div>
<p>Next, to make the runners, get out six pieces of oak, or other
-hard, strong wood, 9" × 3" × 4". Mark with the square from the
+hard, strong wood, 9" × 3" × 4". Mark with the square from the
straightened edge of the runner-board the positions for the inner
blocks, equally distant from the backbone, screwing them in
place (Fig. 454), with one screw in each. Measure across with
@@ -12940,7 +12902,7 @@ and more quickly near the ends. The hole for the pin
should be back of the middle, so that more of the shoe
will be in front of than behind the pin. This is to lessen
the shock when the runner strikes an obstruction.
-The cutting edge may have an angle of about 45° for
+The cutting edge may have an angle of about 45° for
trial (Fig. 455). If too blunt or too sharp you can alter it.
It will take considerable filing to get the edge true, straight, and
uniform (see <i>Filing</i>). Finish with an oil-stone.</p>
@@ -13132,7 +13094,7 @@ Additional suggestions may be found in Figs. 462 and 463.</p>
<p>Two-inch plank should be used for these boats, which are intended
to be from 14' to 20' long. After putting together the
-sides, ends, and bottom, as already described, 2" × 4" joists can
+sides, ends, and bottom, as already described, 2" × 4" joists can
be laid lengthways on the bottom, as shown, which will afford an
underpinning for the house, will distribute the weight over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[341]</a></span>
bottom, keep the floor raised above the water which may leak in
@@ -13481,7 +13443,7 @@ pieces.</p>
<p><b>Bevel.</b>&mdash;This is similar to the square, but with a movable
blade which can be set at any angle. When permanently fixed
-at an angle of 45°, it is called a <i>mitre-square</i>. The bevel is
+at an angle of 45°, it is called a <i>mitre-square</i>. The bevel is
useful, not merely to mark any desired angle, but to repeat some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[350]</a></span>
angle already formed, to which you apply it, moving the blade
until it fits the angle, when the tool can be applied to another
@@ -13499,7 +13461,7 @@ bevel (see <i>Square</i>).</p>
</div>
<p>To obtain an angle
-of 45° with the bevel,
+of 45° with the bevel,
place it against the inside
edge of the large
steel square (Fig. 475),
@@ -16177,7 +16139,7 @@ from the outside, like the handle of a pickaxe, is good because
the head cannot come off. A rounded head with the handle on
the end (like a potato-masher) saves having to notice how you
hold it, as it is equally effective in any position. A mallet of
-this type can be turned all in one piece. Hickory or lignum-vitæ
+this type can be turned all in one piece. Hickory or lignum-vitæ
or any dense, hard wood is good for a mallet.</p>
<p>You do not gain force by using the mallet instead of the hammer,
@@ -18625,7 +18587,7 @@ easily find a variety from which to select.</p>
<p><b>Scraper.</b>&mdash;The scraper is made of saw-blade steel (frequently
from an old saw) and may be of any shape or size to suit the work
required of it. A common form for scraping flat surfaces is rectangular
-like a postal-card, and a good size is from 2" × 4" to 3" × 5".</p>
+like a postal-card, and a good size is from 2" × 4" to 3" × 5".</p>
<p>A piece of glass makes a good scraper for almost every purpose
except where a flat, true surface is required. It is good to smooth
@@ -19039,7 +19001,7 @@ you cannot keep regrinding your tools every time you begin on a
new piece of wood. Just how acute to make the edge you must
learn by experience, according to the conditions of your work.
An edge suitable for delicate work in white-pine would be immediately
-ruined if used upon lignum-vitæ.</p>
+ruined if used upon lignum-vitæ.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/oi_493-1b.jpg" width="200" height="100" alt="" />
@@ -20271,8 +20233,8 @@ used for small articles of cabinet-work and for turning.</p>
and such purposes has been extensive. It is distinguished for its
elasticity.</p>
-<p><b>Lignum Vitæ.</b>&mdash;The extreme hardness, solidity, and durability
-of lignum vitæ make it of great value for pulley-sheaves,
+<p><b>Lignum Vitæ.</b>&mdash;The extreme hardness, solidity, and durability
+of lignum vitæ make it of great value for pulley-sheaves,
balls for bowling, mallets, small handles, and turned objects. It
is too excessively hard for the beginner to use.</p>
@@ -21048,7 +21010,7 @@ drawing.</p>
<p>Isometric perspective will not readily give the correct dimensions
except in the lines which are vertical or which slant either
-way at an angle of 30° with the horizontal,&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, you cannot
+way at an angle of 30° with the horizontal,&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, you cannot
take the other dimensions right off with a rule as from a plan,
and therefore, so far as obtaining correct dimensions is concerned,
it is practically not useful for other than rectangular objects; but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_536" id="Page_536">[536]</a></span>
@@ -22181,7 +22143,7 @@ to good work.</p>
<li>Lighthouse, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
-<li>Lignum-vitæ, <a href="#Page_516">516</a></li>
+<li>Lignum-vitæ, <a href="#Page_516">516</a></li>
<li>Lime-water, <a href="#Page_497">497</a>, <a href="#Page_498">498</a></li>
@@ -23632,7 +23594,7 @@ and one half the notching done in each (Fig. 59).</p></div>
vibration from your work you can put rubber cushions under the legs.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Fig. 112 shows a nicer pair of horses. Take two pieces of pine, or any
-wood not likely to warp, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>" × 3" (or 4") × 2&frac12;' or 3', mark with rule, square, and
+wood not likely to warp, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>" × 3" (or 4") × 2&frac12;' or 3', mark with rule, square, and
gauge (see <i>Gauge</i>), and cut with saw and chisel the shallow gains (Fig. 113)
for the legs. Make them the same depth at the top as at the bottom (Fig.
114), and clean them out as accurately to the lines as you can. Get out eight
@@ -23815,7 +23777,7 @@ green timber, as by closing the pores and obstructing evaporation from the
surface it prevents the seasoning of the wood and causes fermentation and
decay within (see <a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a>).</p></div>
-<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> These posts, and even the sills, can be built up if necessary of 2" × 4" studding,
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> These posts, and even the sills, can be built up if necessary of 2" × 4" studding,
two pieces being placed side by side and nailed together, but this is not
so desirable as regards strength, its only advantage consisting in the readiness
with which the joints can be made by simply cutting one of the two pieces
@@ -24085,389 +24047,6 @@ that everybody needs and few possess, it is invaluable."&mdash;<i>Binghamton Rep
In ambiguous cases, the text has been left as it appears in the original book.</p>
</div>
-
-
-
-
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-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
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