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diff --git a/43589-0.txt b/43589-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b444759 --- /dev/null +++ b/43589-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,17432 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43589 *** + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 43589-h.htm or 43589-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43589/43589-h/43589-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43589/43589-h.zip) + + + Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work. + Volume II: see http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/43590 + + + Images of the original pages are available through + the Google Books Library Project. See + http://books.google.com/books?id=oRdNv3xaMmMC + + +Transcriber's note: + + Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). + + A carat character is used to denote superscription. A + single character following the carat is superscripted + (example: y^e). Multiple superscripted characters are + enclosed by curly brackets (example: Coun^{clr}). + + The 'oe' ligature appears only in the words 'Coeur + d'Alene', and is rendered as 'C[oe]ur.' + + Words printed using "small capitals" are shifted to all + upper-case. + + Please consult the note at the end of this text for + details of corrections made. + + + + + +[Illustration: Isaac Stevens] + + +THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS + +By His Son + +HAZARD STEVENS + +With Maps and Illustrations + +In Two Volumes + +VOL. I + + + + + + + +[Illustration] + +Boston and New York +Houghton, Mifflin and Company +The Riverside Press, Cambridge +1900 + +Copyright, 1900, by Hazard Stevens +All Rights Reserved + + + + + THIS RECORD + OF + A NOBLE AND PATRIOTIC LIFE + IS DEDICATED + TO + THE YOUNG MEN OF AMERICA + + + + +PREFACE + + +For many years I have felt impelled to write this Life, not only in +justice to General Stevens's memory, but also as an act of duty to the +young men of the country, that the example of his noble and patriotic +career might not be lost to posterity. An only son, closely associated +from boyhood with him, his chief of staff in the Civil War, and always +the recipient of his counsel and confidence, the opportunities thus +given me to know his sentiments and characteristics, and to witness so +many of his actions, plainly augment the duty of making his record more +widely known. In these pages, setting aside, as far as possible, the +bias of filial respect and affection, I seek to simply narrate the +actual facts of his life. + +Since beginning this work in 1877, I have been greatly assisted by data +furnished by many of General Stevens's contemporaries, former brother +officers, and associates in the public service, many of whom have now +passed on. I render my grateful thanks to them for such aid, and for +their words of appreciation of General Stevens and encouragement to his +biographer, and especially to Generals Zealous B. Tower, Henry J. Hunt, +Benjamin Alvord, Edward D. Townsend, Rufus Ingalls, A.A. Humphreys, E.O. +C. Ord, Thomas W. Sherman, Joseph E. Johnston, G.T. Beauregard, William +H. French, Truman Seymour, Orlando M. Poe, Silas Casey, John G. Barnard, +M.C. Meiggs, Joseph Hooker, George W. Cullum, David Morrison, George E. +Randolph; Colonels Samuel N. Benjamin, Granville O. Haller, Henry C. +Hodges, John Hamilton, H.G. Heffron, Elijah Walker, Moses B. Lakeman; +Major Theodore J. Eckerson, Major George T. Clark; Captains William T. +Lusk, Robert Armour, C.H. Armstrong; Professors W.H. C. Bartlett, A.E. +Church, H.S. Kendrick, H.E. Hilgard, Spencer F. Baird; General Joseph +Lane, Senator James W. Nesmith; General Joel Palmer, Nathan W. Hazen, +Esq., Alexander S. Abernethy, C.P. Higgins; Judge James G. Swan, Arthur +A. Denny; Hon. Elwood Evans, General James Tilton. + +My thanks are also due, for facilities for examining and copying records +in their departments, to the Hon. J.Q. Smith, former Commissioner of +Indian Affairs, and Hon. A.C. Towner, Acting Commissioner; to General H. +C. Corbin, Adjutant-General; General John M. Wilson, Chief of Engineers; +Hon. John Hay, Secretary of State; Professor Henry L. Pritchett, +Superintendent of the Coast Survey; Lieutenant Paul Brodie, formerly +adjutant 79th Highlanders, for copying hundreds of pages of documents in +the Indian Office; Mr. R.F. Thompson, of the same office, for assistance +rendered; Professor F.G. Young, of Eugene, Oregon, for a copy of Colonel +Lawrence Kip's account of the Walla Walla Council, republished by him. + + + + +SOURCES OF INFORMATION + + +Savage's New England Genealogies. + +Abiel Abbott's History of Andover. + +Miss Sarah Loring Bailey's Historical Sketches of Andover. + +Church and town records of Andover. + +Massachusetts Colonial Records. + +Family records and correspondence. + +History of the Mexican War, by General C.M. Wilcox. + +Campaigns of the Rio Grande and of Mexico, by Major Isaac I. Stevens. + +General Stevens's diary and letters (unpublished). + +His reports in the Engineer Bureau of the Army (unpublished). + +Reports of the Coast Survey, Professor A.D. Bache, for 1850 to 1853. + +Boston Post newspaper, files for 1852. + +Pacific Railroad Routes Explorations, vols. i. and xii., two parts. + +General Stevens's reports to Commissioner of Indian Affairs, with +journals of Indian councils and proceedings in 1854-55 (unpublished). + +Reports of December 22, 1855, and January 29, 1856, in House Document +48, 1st session, 34th Congress. + +Reports of August 28, December 5, 1856, council at Fox Island; October +22, 1856, second council at Walla Walla; April 30, 1857, with map and +census of Indian tribes (unpublished). + +Reports to Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War, August 15, December 21, +1854; February 19, March 9 and 21, May 23 (two letters), June 8, July 7 +and 24, August 14, October 22, November 21 (three letters), 1856. See +documents of 34th and 35th Congresses. + +Reports and correspondence of General Wool, Colonel George Wright, and +Lieutenant-Colonel Silas Casey, in said documents. + +Governor Stevens's messages to legislature of Washington Territory, +February 28, December 5, 1854; January 20, December, 1856, the latter +accompanied by reports to the Secretary of War and correspondence with +military officers during the Indian war. See, also, above documents and +messages for proceedings relative to martial law. + +Governor Stevens's speeches in 35th and 36th Congresses, in +Congressional Globe. + +General Joseph Lane's speech in 35th Congress, May 13, 1858, on the +Indian war. + +Three Years' Residence in Washington Territory, by James G. Swan. + +The Walla Walla Council, by Colonel Lawrence Kip. + +Account of Colonel Wright's campaign against the Spokanes, by Colonel +Lawrence Kip. + +Report of J. Ross Browne, Special Agent, etc., on the Indian war, House +Document 58, 1st session, 35th Congress. + +History of the Pacific States, by H.H. Bancroft, vols. xxiv.-xxvi. + +Archives State Department. + +Records War Department. + +Circular Letter to Emigrants, The Northwest, Letter to the Vancouver +Railroad Convention, by Governor Stevens, published in pamphlet. + +The War between the States, by A.H. Stephens. + +War Records, vol. v., for Army of the Potomac in 1861; vol. vi., for +Port Royal Expedition; vol. xiv., for James Island campaign; vol. xii., +in three parts, for Pope's campaign. + +Military Historical Society of Massachusetts, vol. ii, entitled The +Virginia Campaign of 1862 under General Pope. + +History of the 79th Highlanders, by William Todd. + +History of the 21st Massachusetts, by General Charles F. Walcott. + +Biographical Register of West Point Graduates, by General George W. +Cullum. + +Defence of Charleston Harbor, by Major John Johnson. + +Southern Historical Society Papers, vol. xvi. + +Official dispatches of Admiral Dupont. + +Life of Charles Henry Davis, Rear Admiral. + +Letters and statements from gentlemen named in the Preface. + + * * * * * + +The author, having sought his information from original sources as far +as possible, deems it unnecessary to mention the great number of +histories, regimental histories, and biographies that he has perused, as +they throw little light on the subject, and much of that misleading. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER I + + ANCESTRY.--BIRTHPLACE + + Isaac Ingalls Stevens, seventh in descent from John Stevens, + 1, one of founders of Andover, Mass., 1640--Deacon Joseph, + 2--Captain James, 3, captor of Louisburg; deputy to General + Court--Lieutenant James, 4, raised company for French and + Indian war; died in service--Jonathan, 5, Revolutionary + soldier, Bunker Hill; other service; characteristics--His + brother James's diary of siege of Boston--Isaac, 6, + crippled by falling tree; marries Hannah Cummings,--her + ancestry; hires Bridges farm; untiring industry and thrift; + death of wife; second marriage; characteristics; children 1 + + + CHAPTER II + + BIRTH.--BOYHOOD + + Born, Marble Ridge farmhouse, North Andover, Mass., March 25, + 1818--Delicate child--Heroic treatment--Incidents showing + character--Devotion to mother--Her death irreparable + loss--Early schooling--Over-study--Evil effects--Insists on + leaving school--Works in factory a year--Strict treatment-- + No indulgence--Injudicious urging--Fever--Rupture from + over-exertion--Seeks Dr. Warren--Old Put's school, Franklin + Academy--Rigorous daily life of farmer's boy--Phillips + Academy--Appearance on entering--Earns board and lodgings + with Nathan W. Hazen, Esq.--Takes first rank in studies--Power + of concentration--Habits of study--Proficiency in mathematics-- + Protests against bigotry--Overcomes extreme diffidence-- + Appointed to West Point 13 + + + CHAPTER III + + WEST POINT + + Patriotic emotions on entering West Point--Determines to be + head of his class--Better prepared rivals, Biddle, Halleck, + and Butler--Distinguished classmates--Extra French lessons-- + Letters describe life and studies--Father and uncle William + disappointed at standing at first examination--Abominates + smoking and chewing--Early rising--Halleck and Biddle compare + notes--"Little Stevens is driving ahead like the Devil"--Gains + first place--Spends 4th of July in New York--Southern contempt + for Yankee farmers--Determined to resent it--Dialectic + Society--Second year encampment--Military ball--Contrasts his + situation with that on entering--Characteristics drawn by + Professors Bartlett and Church--Extra drawing lessons, great + gains--Admires General Miller's "I'll try, sir"--Generous + rivalry--Eleven good friends--Visit home 24 + + CHAPTER IV + + WEST POINT.--LAST TWO YEARS + + Appointed assistant professor of mathematics--Leading part in + Dialectic Society--Efforts at speaking--Reflections on + studies and authors--Long walks--Forbidden sweets-- + Horsemanship--Skating over thin ice--Saves companion from + freezing--Letters to father and sisters--Susan goes to + Missouri--Again head, third year--Patriotic indignation at + British aggression--Advises sending Oliver to college--Letters + to Hannah and Oliver--Avows abolition principles--Founds + "Talisman"--His own anonymous critic--His intimate friends-- + Graduates first in every branch--Parents attend graduation + exercises 48 + + CHAPTER V + + NEWPORT + + Ordered to Newport, R.I.--Phrenological chart--Lieutenants + Mason, Beauregard, Hunt--Ascendency over employees--Newport + society--Mr. Stevens welcomed--Personal appearance--Meets his + future wife--Benjamin Hazard--Horseback rides--Family + mansion--Charming Polly Wanton--Colonel Daniel Lyman--German + class--Marriage of Susan to David H. Bishop--Death of + grandmother--Urges additional fortifications--Proposes to + study law--Friendly letter from Halleck--Takes part of + Tilden; of H.L. Smith--Death of Hannah--Delivers address + before Newport Lyceum--Lecture on Oliver Cromwell--Visits + Washington--Fairhaven battery--Death of Susan--Death of + Benjamin Hazard--Marriage, September 8, 1841 60 + + + CHAPTER VI + + CHARGE OF WORKS: NEW BEDFORD, PORTSMOUTH, PORTLAND, BUCKSPORT + + Wedding journey to West Point--Returns to Newport--Charge of + works at New Bedford--Moves to Fairhaven--Halleck asks aid + for engineer corps--Journal--Thanksgiving in Andover--Hazard + born, June 9--Fugitive slave harbored in Andover--Elizabeth + marries L.M. Campbell in Tennessee--Moves his family to + Portsmouth, N.H.--Charge of works there and Portland, + Me.--Pleasant society--Examines old forts at Castine--Fort + Knox, on Penobscot, buys land for--Youthful appearance-- + Backwoods uncle, warm welcome--Overwork--Severe illness-- + Julia Virginia born, June 27, 1844--Visits Andover--Elizabeth + and Mr. Campbell--Moves to Bucksport tavern--Goes to + housekeeping--New friends--Assistants, Richard Kidder Randolph, + Isaac Osgood, A.W. Tinkham--Penobscot River--Barge--Pushes on + works--Fine ox-teams--Judge of men--Severe sickness in + winter--Visits Washington--Obtains large appropriations-- + Confidential inquiry if he desires promotion--Characteristic + reply--Delighted in dispensing hospitality--Daughter Julia + Virginia died, December 7, 1845--Beautiful tribute by Mr. + Brooks--Organizes course of lectures--Salmon weir--Advocates + engineer company--Enlists first soldier--Views on raising + standard of rank and file--Ordered to Mexican war--Speeds to + Boston by sleigh 78 + + + CHAPTER VII + + VOYAGE TO MEXICO + + Placed in charge of pontoon and engineer train--Delays in + embarking--Visits from relatives--Death of Elizabeth--Letters + to wife--Sails on barque Prompt, January 19, 1847--Diary of + voyage--Seasickness--Warm weather--Passes Bahamas, Great + Abaco, Hole in the Wall, Berry Island, Black Chief--Steward + commits suicide--The weather in the Gulf--Arrives at the + Brazos--Meets officers--Great confusion--Sails to Tampico, + beautiful, picturesque region--Landing at Vera Cruz, March 9 + and 10 96 + + + CHAPTER VIII + + VERA CRUZ.--CERRO GORDO + + Vera Cruz--Defenses--American army invests city--Lieutenant + Stevens's zeal in reconnoitring--Hands torn and poisoned-- + Horse bolts to enemy's lines--Throws himself from saddle-- + Looks out route for covered way--Put in charge with large + working parties--Volunteers--Independent ways--Diary of + siege--Capture of city--Damage by artillery fire--"Moonlight + magnificence and sunlight squalidity"--Secures fine horse-- + Appointed adjutant of engineer corps--Diary of march to + Cerro Gordo--National Bridge--Rancheros--Reconnoissances + of Cerro Gordo--Disabled by rupture--Compelled to remain in + camp--Description of battle--Letter to wife 110 + + + CHAPTER IX + + JALAPA.--PUEBLA + + Prisoners released on parole--March for Jalapa--Encerro, Santa + Anna's country seat--Reaches Jalapa, Eden of Mexico--Prepares + memoir on conducting war against guerrillas--Letters to + wife--Feeling address at burial of Sapper Carigan--March from + Jalapa to Puebla--Beautiful country--Soldado--Pass of La + Hora--Las Vegas--Perote, its plain and castle--Leaves Perote + with Colonel Clarke's brigade--San Antonio--Tepe Ahualeo with + General Worth and Garland's brigade--Hacienda of Virayes-- + Byzantium--Ojo de Agua--Hacienda Santa Annaced--Nopalucan--El + Pinal--Acajete--Amasoque--Column of lancers threaten attack-- + Sheer off at fire of Duncan's battery in two bodies-- + Lieutenants Stevens and McClellan pursue one for five + miles--Puebla occupied--Health improved--Reports for duty-- + Reconnoitres road to Tlascala--Examines position in city-- + Generals Scott and Twiggs arrive--Santa Anna renounces + power--His career and character--Attends church--Bull fight-- + Army recruiting strength--Drilling--Awaiting reinforcements-- + Engineers making maps--Collecting information--Wealthy + Mexican offers to act as spy--Dominguez, robber chief, with + some of his band, employed as spies and couriers--Submits + memoir on system of espionage and employing robbers--Rumors-- + Guerrillas invest El Pinal--Colonel Harney marches to disperse + them--Arrival of volunteers--Review--Sorry appearance--Good + material--Heavy defenses and eighteen thousand troops at City + of Mexico--Character of Mexican governing class--Letters to + wife--Description of Puebla--Climate--People--Confidence of + the troops--Character of General Scott--Arrival of General + Pierce 129 + + + CHAPTER X + + ADVANCE TO MEXICO, EL PEÑON, CONTRERAS, CHURUBUSCO + + Advance to valley of Mexico--Description of defenses--General + Scott and staff with Twiggs's division reach Ayotla--Daring + reconnoissances of El Peñon by Lieutenant Stevens--March + around Lakes Chalco and Xochimilco--Occupy San Augustin-- + Reconnoissances of enemy's positions--San Antonio road + strongly fortified--Pedregal--Intrenched camp at Contreras-- + Battle of Contreras--Lieutenant Stevens urges decisive movement + adopted by Twiggs--"Attack the enemy's left; you cut him off + from reinforcements and hurl him into the gorges of the + mountains"--Stormy night--Discouragement--Scene at Scott's + headquarters--Second day's battle--Reconnoitring from church + steeple at Coyoacan--Enemy in full retreat on San Antonio + road--Instant advance by Twiggs, led by Lieutenant Stevens, + who comes up against fortified convent and brings on battle + of Churubusco--Description of battle--Terrible scenes of + battlefield banished sleep--Letter to wife--Tacubaya occupied-- + Armistice 163 + + + CHAPTER XI + + MOLINO DEL REY.--CHAPULTEPEC.--CAPTURE OF CITY OF MEXICO.--RETURN TO + UNITED STATES + + General Scott and staff enter Tacubaya--Take quarters in + Bishop's Palace--Commissioners to negotiate peace--Mexican + treachery--Armistice terminated--Battle of Molino del + Rey--Useless attacks--Severe losses--Battle of + Chapultepec--Castle stormed--Quitman advances on Tacubaya + causeway--Worth on San Cosme causeway--Lieutenant Stevens, + with Worth, wounded--Enemy retreat in night--American troops + occupy city--Lieutenant Stevens's remarks on the + movements--His character sketches of Lee, Beauregard, Tower, + Smith, McClellan, Foster, Mason--Removed to city--quartered + in the Palace--Severe wound--Ups and downs--Mounts + crutches--Journeys in ambulance with Lieutenant Foster to + Puebla--Arrives at New Orleans 202 + + + CHAPTER XII + + HEROES HOME FROM THE WAR + + Proceeds to Washington--Flattering reception--Gives full + accounts to Colonel Totten--Joyful reunion with family in + Newport--Shoots mad dog--Ordered to Savannah--Letter to + brother--Character of Cromwell--Makes garden--Justice of + Mexican war--Savannah orders countermanded--Resumes works at + Bucksport--Purchases house, garden, poultry--Characteristic + reply to inquiry as to willingness to be sent to Pacific + coast--Brevetted captain and major--Efforts to secure justice + for brother officers--Opinion of General Taylor--Brevet + pay--McClellan asks assistance for engineer company-- + Lieutenant Stevens's views--Advocates reorganization + of the army 226 + + + CHAPTER XIII + + COAST SURVEY + + Professor A.D. Bache tenders charge of Coast Survey office-- + Accepts conditionally--Retains charge of works--Assumes new + duties--Estimate of General Taylor--Magnitude of Coast + Survey Office--Organizes the force--Reforms the office-- + Meets "men of Mexico"--General Shields--Approves + compromise measures--Puritan father condemns Webster-- + Visits Bucksport--Daughter Gertrude Maude born--Wound + breaks out afresh--Contemplates leaving Coast Survey--Moves + family to Newport--Pays $400 on house--Generous in money + matters--Spends summer in Washington--Letters to his wife-- + Ideals of woman, marriage, duty, ambition--Admiration for + Henry Clay, the master spirit--Compromise measures passed--Fine + health--Carries appropriation--Truth and directness superior + to low cunning--Office improving, duties more pleasant + daily--Publishes Campaigns of Rio Grande and of Mexico--General + Scott takes offense 241 + + + CHAPTER XIV + + LIFE IN WASHINGTON + + Moves family to Washington--Pleasant society--Takes hold Fourteen + Years' Bill--Reorganization of army--Urges brother officers to + do "their duty to their profession"--Army man, not a corps + man--Moves to Mrs. Janney's, on 8th Street--Takes family to + Newport for summer, 1851--Another phrenological chart--Rents + house on 3d Street and goes to housekeeping--George Watson + Stevens--Letters to wife--Responds to toast of Army and Navy + at banquet to Kossuth--Advocates coast defenses, and writes + articles--Appointed member of Lighthouse Board--Sells Bucksport + house--Advocates election of General Franklin Pierce as + President--Articles in "Boston Post"--Speeches in Andover, + Newport, and Portsmouth--Taken to task by Secretary of War + Conrad--Pungent reply--Leader among young officers--Numerous + calls--Friendship with Professor Bache--Continued improvement + of Coast Survey Office 257 + + + CHAPTER XV + + GOVERNOR, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.--EXPLORATION, NORTHERN ROUTE + + Washington Territory organized--Exploration of routes to Pacific + determined on--Appointed governor--Letter of resignation from + army--Colonel Totten's reply--Silver service presented by + friends on the Coast Survey--Obtains charge of exploration of + Northern route--Takes high ground--Impresses his views on the + administration--Applies for Captain McClellan--Letter to + him--Sends Lieutenant Donelson to Montreal to procure maps + and data from Hudson Bay Company--Prepares his own + instructions--Magnitude of task--Organizes the expedition-- + Gives McClellan charge of construction of the military road, + Steilacoom to Walla Walla--Declares independence of Hudson Bay + Company--Busy scenes in 3d Street house--Sends officers to San + Francisco, St. Louis, and St. Paul to hasten preparation-- + Selects territorial library--Exploration fully reported in + vols. i. and xii., Pacific Railroad Reports 280 + + + CHAPTER XVI + + THE PARTY.--THE START + + Leaves Washington--Expedites matters in St. Louis--Dispatches + party up Missouri--Up Mississippi to St. Paul--Rouses party + in camp before breakfast--Breaking mules--Incessant + rains--Roster of the party--General plan--March to Sauk + River--Winnebago Indians--Canadian voyageurs--Pierre + Boutineau--Camp regulations--Assimilated rank--All to stand + guard--Pembina train--Pushing on detached parties--March to + Pike lake--Swollen streams, bogs--Crossing Sauk and Crow + rivers--Lightning Lake--Fish and game--Relieves Lieutenant Du + Barry--Discharges inefficient men--White Bear Lake--Parties + reassemble at Pike Lake 302 + + + CHAPTER XVII + + PIKE LAKE TO FORT UNION + + General course W. 10° N.--Lieutenant Grover surveys separate + route--Country within forty miles examined by side + trips--Route passes near Breckinridge, Jamestown, Minot, and + Great Northern Railroad nearly to Rocky Mountains--Crosses + Chippewa River--Camp regulations--Bois de Sioux--Description + of country--Red River hunters--Sheyenne River--Lander's + adventure--False alarm of Indians--Myriads of buffalo--The + hunt--Lake Jessie--Buffalo threaten camp; stop train--Horse + and mules go off with buffalo--Governor Stevens disabled-- + Lander returns--Inveterate horse-killer--James River--Anxiety + at non-return of Tinkham--Guns fired--Parties sent back to + find him--Sioux reported approaching--Train arranged for + defense--Red River hunters--Tinkham returns safe--Governor + Wilkie and Red River hunters--Customs--Hunts--Government--Air + tainted by slaughtered buffalo--Maison du Chien--Coteau de + Missouri--Mouse River--More Red River hunters--Exchange + visits--Express dispatched to Fort Union--Assiniboine + Indians--Council--Distribution of presents--Arrives at Fort + Union 320 + + + CHAPTER XVIII + + FORT UNION TO FORT BENTON + + Description of Fort Union--Alexander Culbertson--The + Blackfeet--Making peace--Surveys by side parties--Bugbear + stories--Moving westward--Blackfoot war party--Big Muddy-- + Missouri bottom--Every one ordered to walk part way daily-- + Milk River--Field order--Abundant game--Gros Ventres--Feast + and council--Feud with Blackfeet--Peace made between them-- + Trading horses--Cypress Mountain--Stories of Indian + fights--Bear's Paw Mountains--Party sent to view them--Box + Elder Creek--The Three Buttes, favorite resort of Blackfeet-- + Crosses Marias and Teton rivers--Scene of bloody Indian + conflict--Fort Benton--Fort Campbell 347 + + + CHAPTER XIX + + WIDESPREAD EXPLORING PARTIES + + Gathering information--Lieutenant Grover to Bitter Root + valley--Lieutenant Mullan to Muscle Shell River--Lieutenant + Donelson to examine Cadotte's Pass--Mr. Lander to Marias + Pass--George W. Stevens describes outfitting war parties--Funds + fall short--Governor Stevens takes responsibility of incurring + deficiency--Starts to visit main Blackfoot camp--Chiefs join + the party--Culbertson's defense of Fort McKenzie--Death of + Rotten Belly--Reaches Marias River--Express brings report from + Lieutenant Saxton that mountains are impassable for wagons-- + Returns to Fort Benton--Lander ordered back--Want of harmony in + his party--Stanley proceeds to Piegan camp--Lieutenants Saxton + and Grover meet on summit of Rocky Mountains--Tinkham returns + from Three Buttes and Marias River--Outfitting with pack + animals--Lieutenant Saxton, with Culbertson and twenty-eight + men, descends Missouri in keelboat--Doty stationed at Fort + Benton--Lander's insubordination curbed--Stanley returns with + thirty chiefs--Talk with Blackfeet--Their dress--Peace + advocated--Chief Low Horn--His good faith 364 + + + CHAPTER XX + + EXPLORING THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS + + Lieutenants Saxton and Grover start down the Missouri--March up + the Teton via Sun and Dearborn rivers to Cadotte's Pass-- + Description of country; game--Governor Stevens proclaims + inauguration of civil government on summit of Rocky Mountains-- + Descending western slope--Big Blackfoot and Hell Gate rivers-- + Overtakes main party--Fine condition of animals--Bitter Root + valley and river--Fort Owen--Lieutenant Arnold here with train + and provisions--Nine passes examined--Lander's erratic course-- + Council with Flatheads--Chief Victor--Lieutenant Mullan + stationed at winter post in Bitter Root valley--Lieutenant + Donelson with main party sent via Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille + Lake--Dr. Suckley descends rivers in canoe--Tinkham to explore + Marias Pass--Proceed to Fort Benton--Cross mountains to Walla + Walla--Governor Stevens moves down the Bitter Root--Meets the + Nez Perces--Crosses the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mountains--C[oe]ur + d'Alene Mission--Indians--Lake--Falls--Spokane Indians--Spokane + Garry, head chief--Forced ride to Colville--Meeting with + McClellan--His explorations--Dilatoriness--Reports against + country and passes 375 + + + CHAPTER XXI + + UPPER COLUMBIA TO PUGET SOUND + + McDonald's Indian tales--Chemakan Mission--Settlements in Colville + valley--Visits Spokane House--Garry's Lodge--Arrival of main + party at Camp Washington--March to Walla Walla--Pelouse River-- + Crosses Snake River--Rides to old Fort Walla Walla--Visits Walla + Walla valley--Pu-pu-mox-mox--Lander ordered to survey Nahchess + Pass--Descends Columbia to Dallas, to Vancouver--Colonel + Bonneville--Ascends Cowlitz River in canoe--Four days in + drenching rains--Lander balks--Tinkham ordered to cross + Snoqualmie Pass--Officers reach Olympia--Captain McClellan + ordered to run line to Snoqualmie Pass--His failure--Tinkham + succeeds--McClellan aggrieved--Governor Stevens's opinion of + pioneers--McClellan's 396 + + + CHAPTER XXII + + ORGANIZING CIVIL GOVERNMENT.--THE INDIAN SERVICE + + Wild country--Scanty population--Character of settlers--Serious + problems--Governor Stevens arrives at Olympia--Issues + proclamation--Organizes Indian service--Appoints agents--Visits + all parts of Sound--Meets Governor Douglass at Victoria, + B.C.--Reports on Hudson Bay Company's claims--First message-- + Halleck exposes Southern political schemes--Purchases + homestead--Preparing exploration reports--Secretary Davis + stops further surveys--Drafts protested 411 + + + CHAPTER XXIII + + RETURN TO WASHINGTON.--REPORT OF EXPLORATION + + Warm welcome in San Francisco--Lectures on Northern route-- + Advocates three routes--Via Isthmus to New York--Joyful family + reunion in Newport--Proceeds to Washington--Complete report + of exploration--Deficiency provided for--General Hunt relates + incident--Secretary Davis disparages Northern route--General + Stevens's rejoinder--His final report--Severe labors--Sickness-- + Doing the work of the delegate--Appointed commissioner to + treat with Blackfeet and other tribes--Unimpaired influence 425 + + + CHAPTER XXIV + + CROSSING THE ISTHMUS + + Steamer from New York--Riotous scenes--Stops at Havana-- + Aspinwall--Forlorn place--Cars to the summit--Carusi's + pavilion--Scene at night--Proceeds on mule-back--Tropic + rainstorms--Crossing the Chagres River--Lost children-- + Panama--Embarks on Golden Age--Touches at Acapulco--Panama + fever--Reaches San Francisco--Welcomed by friends--Delayed + by sickness--Rebuke to General Wool--Steamer up the coast-- + Into Columbia--Lands at Vancouver--Canoe trip up Cowlitz + River--Muddy roads to Olympia--Disappointing appearance-- + Second message 433 + + + CHAPTER XXV + + INDIAN POLICY.--TREATIES ON PUGET SOUND + + Beneficent Indian policy--Intention to write account of his Indian + service frustrated by early death--Indians of Puget Sound, + helpless, ready to treat--Organizes treaty force--Decides on + policy and terms--Sends agents to assemble Indians--Great pains + to make them fully understand and to consult with them--Council + and treaty of She-nah-nam or Medicine Creek; of Point Elliott + or Mukilteo; of Point-no-Point; of Neah Bay--Speeches--Visits + Victoria, and calls on Governor Douglass to restrain Northern + Indians--Napoleonic campaign--What was accomplished--Present + condition of the Indians 448 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + PAGE + + General Isaac I. Stevens, at the age of 43, + from a photograph _Frontispiece_. + + Grave of John Stevens _to face page_ 2 + + Birthplace of General Stevens, Andover, Mass 14 + + Infant Jesus. Crayon drawing at West Point 44 + + Old Wanton Mansion in Newport 66 + + General Stevens at the age of 23, from a miniature by Staigg 74 + + Margaret Lyman Stevens, from a miniature by Staigg 76 + + Low Horn, Piegan Chief 374 + + Charles H. Mason, Secretary of the Territory, from a photograph 414 + + +MAPS AND PLANS + + Route, Vera Cruz to Mexico 118 + + Battle of Cerro Gordo 124 + + The Valley of Mexico 162 + + Battlefields in the Valley of Mexico--Contreras, Churubusco, + Chapultepec, Molino del Rey, Mexico 172 + + + + + THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS + + + + + CHAPTER I + + ANCESTRY.--BIRTHPLACE + + +About 1640 a mere handful of English colonists went out from Boston, and +made the first settlement in the town of Andover, Essex County, +Massachusetts. They laid out their homes on the Cochichewick, a stream +which flows out of the Great Pond in North Andover, and falls into the +Merrimac River on the south side a few miles below Lawrence. The infant +settlement was known as Cochichewick until 1646, when it was +incorporated as a town under its present name, after the Andover in +Hampshire, England, the birthplace of some of the settlers. + +Among the first who thus planted their hearthstones in the wilderness +was John Stevens. His name stands fifth in an old list in the town +records containing "the names of all the householders in order as they +came to town." The mists of the past still allow a few glimpses of this +sturdy Puritan settler. He was admitted a freeman of the colony, June 2, +1641 (Old Style). He was appointed by the General Court, May 15, 1654, +one of a committee of three to settle the boundary between the towns of +Haverhill and Salisbury, a duty satisfactorily performed. He was +sergeant in the military company of the town, a post then equivalent to +captain or commander. According to Savage, N.E. Genealogies, vol. i., p. +186, John Stevens lived at Caversham, County Oxford, England, and came +to America in the Confidence from Southampton in 1638. + +Large, substantial head and foot stones of slate, sculptured and +lettered in the quaint fashion of his day, still mark the resting-place +of John Stevens, after the storms of now two and a third centuries, in +the oldest graveyard of Cochichewick, situated opposite the Kittredge +mansion, and about half a mile north of the old parish meeting-house in +North Andover. He died April 11, 1662, in the fifty-seventh year of his +age, and was therefore thirty-five years old when he founded his future +home. John Stevens was evidently a man of note and substance, the worthy +progenitor of a prolific family, which has filled Andover with his +descendants, and put forth from time to time strong, flourishing +branches into all quarters of the country. It may indeed be safely said +that there is scarcely a State in the Union which does not contain +descendants of this sturdy Puritan. + +His son Nathan, the first male child born in Andover, lies buried near +him under a broad freestone slab with an inscription to "Coun^{clr} +Nathan Stevens, who deceased February y^e 19, 1717, in y^e 75 year of +his age." The memorials of many others of his descendants stand thickly +scattered through the quaint old burial-ground. Not the least +interesting of these relics is a stone "In memory of Primus, who was a +faithful servant of Mr. Benjamin Stevens, Jr., who died July 25, 1792, +aged 72 years, 5 months, and 16 days." + +A vigorous, long-lived race sprang from the loins of this first settler +John, a hardy, thrifty race of plain New England farmers, honest and +straightforward, with plenty of solid, shrewd good sense, bearing +manfully the toils and hardships of colonial days, and contributing its +quota of ministers and deacons to the church, and officers and +soldiers to the wars with the Indians and the French. In 1679 a grant of +land was made to Ephraim Stevens, son of the first settler, in +recompense of his losses by the Indians. In 1689 Lieutenant John +Stevens, another son, perished in the expedition against Louisburg. In +1698 Abiel Stevens, a grandson, was captured by the Indians, but made +his escape. In 1755 Captain Asa Stevens and Ensign James Stevens died in +the Lake George campaign. Upon the state muster-rolls appear the names +of twelve Stevenses of Andover as soldiers in the Revolution. + +[Illustration: GRAVE OF JOHN STEVENS] + +The subject of this work, Isaac Ingalls Stevens, was the seventh in +direct descent from John Stevens, the founder of Andover,--1 John +Stevens, 2 Joseph, 3 James, 4 James, 5 Jonathan, 6 Isaac, 7 Isaac +Ingalls Stevens. + +Joseph was the fourth son of the first settler John. He was deacon in +the church. He married Mary Ingalls May 20, 1679, and died February 25, +1743, aged 88. + +James was the second son of Joseph, married Dorothy Fry, March, 1712, +and died May 25, 1769, aged 84. He participated in the military affairs +and contests with the Indians and French of his times, commanded a +company at the capture of Louisburg, and for his services was granted a +tract of land in Maine. He was a deputy to the General Court. His +gravestone bears the title of captain. + +Captain James's eldest son was also named James. He was born in 1720, +and married Sarah Peabody in 1745. This James was an energetic, +promising young man, with a young wife and two boys, when in 1754 a +recruiting party with colors, drum, and fife went about Andover beating +up recruits for the French and Indian war then raging. The young men all +hung back. "Make me a captain," said James Stevens, "and I will raise a +company for the war." This remark led to his receiving the commission +of ensign. He raised a company of the young men of Andover, and marched +away at their head to the shores of Lake George, in New York, where, +November 28, 1755, he died of camp fever, with the rank of lieutenant. + +His eldest son, Jonathan, inherited a due share of his father's spirit, +for we find him hastening to Bunker Hill, and fighting manfully in the +battle. He served on other occasions during the Revolutionary war, and +after a successful dash upon the enemy writes the following interesting +letter to his sister:-- + + LOVING SISTER,--These will inform you that I am very well at + present, and have been so ever since I came from home, and I hope + you and all my friends enjoy the same state of health. + + We have been up to Ticonderoga and took almost four hundred + prisoners of the British Army, and relieved one hundred of our men + that were prisoners there. + + Our army have come from Ticonderoga down as far as Pawlet, about + sixty miles, and expect to march to Stillwater very soon. So no more + at present. + + I remain, Your Loving Brother, + JONATHAN STEVENS. + + PAWLET, October ye 1st, 1777. + +Jonathan married Susannah Bragg, December 15, 1773, and raised thirteen +children,--Jonathan, Susannah, James, Dolly, Jeremy, Hannah, Isaac, +Nathaniel, Dolly, Moses, Sarah, Oliver, and William. + +He united the business of a currier and tanner to his ancestral pursuit +of farming, and achieved the modest independence he so well merited. The +house that he occupied for many years stood on the old road that passed +along the western border of the Cochichewick meadows, that were long +since flooded and converted into a lake, the extension of the Great +Pond, for the water supply of the woolen mills of his son Nathaniel, and +the cellar is still visible on the west side of the road, some three +hundred yards from its junction with the road from the village of North +Andover to the mills. He afterwards built one of those large, square, +substantial mansions, once common in New England, on the crest of the +high ground east of the village, and commanding noble views of the +hamlet, the Great Pond, and the Cochichewick valley and the mills. This +house was unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1876. + +Jonathan Stevens purchased, for sixpence an acre, a large tract of land +in Maine, which he divided into three farms, and bestowed upon his sons +Jonathan, James, and Isaac. They settled, and named the place Andover, +after their native town, and the descendants of the two former still +reside there. + +Jonathan Stevens was a tall, large man of fresh, ruddy complexion and +fine appearance. He was fond of relating the incidents of the battle of +Bunker Hill, and used to recount the tale to his children and +grandchildren every Fourth of July,--how Putnam went along the line and +commanded them not to fire until they could see the whites of the +Redcoats' eyes; and how Abbot, the strongest man in town, bore a wounded +comrade off the field on his back. On the anniversary of the battle he +invariably invited his comrades in the fight to his house, and +entertained them with New England rum and hearty, old-fashioned +hospitality, while the veterans fought the battle o'er again. He sat +among the veterans of the battle at Webster's magnificent oration in +dedication of the Bunker Hill monument. On his eighty-fourth birthday he +worked with his men in the hay field, keeping up with the best all day, +and suffered no ill effect from the unwonted exertion. He died April 13, +1834, at the age of eighty-seven. In 1799 he gave the tract of land upon +which was erected Franklin Academy, on the hill north of the +meeting-house. + +Jonathan's brother James, Captain James's other son, also served in the +Revolutionary war, and left a diary of the siege of Boston, recently +discovered in the garret of an old mansion in Andover, which opens like +an epic:-- + + "April ye 19, 1775. This morning about seven o'clock we had a larum + that the Regulars were gone to Concord. We gathered to the meeting + house, and then started for Concord. We went through Tewksbury into + Billerica. We stopped at Pollard's, and ate some biscuits and cheese + on the common. We started and went on to Bedford, and we heard that + the Regulars had gone back to Boston. So we went through Bedford. As + we went into Lexington we went to the meeting house, and there we + came to the destruction of the Regulars. They killed eight of our + men, and shot a cannon ball through the meeting house. We went along + through Lexington, and we saw several Regulars dead on the road, and + some of our men, and three or four houses were burnt, and some + horses and hogs were killed. They plundered in every house they + could get into. They stove in windows and broke in tops of desks. We + met the men a coming back very fast," etc. + +Jonathan's fourth son was Isaac, born in 1785. On reaching manhood he +went before the mast on a voyage to China, and brought back, as a gift +to his mother, a beautiful china tea-set. After his return from sea he +went to Andover, Maine, to settle upon the lands bestowed by his father +upon himself and brothers, Jonathan and James. + +With characteristic energy, Isaac Stevens set to work clearing his land, +and reducing rebellious nature to orderly submission. While thus at work +in the woods one day, a heavy tree fell upon and crushed him to the +earth; his left leg was terribly mangled, the bones broken in two +places, and he received other serious injuries. The doctors insisted +that the leg must be taken off in order to save his life, but Isaac +Stevens with inflexible resolution refused to allow the amputation, and +after a long, painful illness finally recovered. The limb, however, in +the process of healing, became materially shorter and permanently +stiffened, so that he was unable to bend the knee joint, and during the +remainder of his life the wound broke out afresh periodically, and +caused him great suffering. As soon as he was sufficiently recovered to +bear the journey, he returned to his native Andover, where, under his +mother's careful nursing, he slowly recovered from the terrible injuries +he had received. + +It was at this time that he formed an attachment with Hannah Cummings, +the daughter of a sterling farmer family like his own, and who united to +a warm and affectionate heart, noble and elevated sentiments, strong +good sense, and untiring industry. Their marriage followed soon after, +on the 29th of September, 1814. He now relinquished the project of +settling in Maine, and hired an old farmhouse with some twenty acres of +land of Mr. Bridges. This house, one of the oldest in Andover, is +situated at the end of Marble Ridge, a short distance south of the Great +Pond, and at the point where the road from the village to Haverhill, +after crossing the Essex Railroad, forks, the left branch leading on to +Haverhill, while the other turns short to the right and conducts to +Marble Ridge Station. The solid timbers and stockaded sides of the rear +part of this old house--for the front is a later structure--were the +mute witnesses of a stratagem in early Indian troubles as novel as it +proved successful. The stout-hearted farmer settler was alone, with his +wife and little ones about him, one night, when he discovered a large +party of savages stealthily approaching, and spreading out so as to +encompass his house. Hastily barricading the doors, he seized his +trumpet, which he bore as trumpeter of the military company of the +settlement, stole unperceived out of the house, caught and mounted his +horse, and, making a circuit through the fields, gained the high road +between the Indians and the village. Then, putting spurs to his steed, +and pealing blast upon blast from his trumpet, he charged furiously down +upon the Indians, now in the very act of assailing his domicile, who, +thinking no doubt that the whole force of the country-side was upon +them, incontinently fled into the forest. + +Judged by the standard of these days, the young couple had an +unpromising future. They were very poor, the husband a cripple, and they +held as tenants a few barren acres from which to extract a livelihood. +But Isaac Stevens now toiled early and late with untiring energy; he +saved at every point, and turned everything to account with true Yankee +thrift. He built a malt-house, and after laboring on the farm from +earliest dawn until dark, would work at preparing the malt until late in +the evening. His farm embraced a large meadow lying on both sides of the +Cochichewick, just below where it issued from the Great Pond, but now +flooded by the milldams still lower down, where he cut vast quantities +of meadow hay, with which he filled his barns and fed a goodly number of +horned stock during the long, rigorous winters, realizing thereby a +handsome profit in the spring. His young wife joined her efforts to his, +and frequently cut and made clothing for the neighbors around, in +addition to the unceasing and arduous labors of a farmer's wife. Such +thrift and industry could not fail of success. The Bridges house and +land were purchased, largely on mortgage at first; then the wet meadow +was added; then a goodly tract of generous land was bought of the +father, Jonathan Stevens, and other fields and tracts were added from +time to time. During the thirteen years following their marriage, the +first scanty holding grew to a farm of one hundred and fifty acres of +their own, and free from debt. Seven children, too, came to bless their +union and increase their cares. Then the devoted wife and mother died, +November 3, 1827, leaving this helpless little flock, the oldest of whom +was but twelve and the youngest two years of age. Henceforth life was a +heavy and unceasing labor to Isaac Stevens. The little farm grew no +larger, and all his efforts were now required to maintain his family and +keep free from debt. Two years afterwards he married Ann Poor, of North +Andover, impelled by his situation and circumstances, with so many +helpless children about him and the household economy of the farm +unprovided for. The second wife failed to restore the happiness of home. +She had no children, and died in 1866, four years after her husband. + +Isaac Stevens was a man of deeply marked and noble characteristics. His +fortitude was severely tested by the misfortune which left him a +lifelong cripple. His cool courage and inflexible resolution are best +illustrated by his manner of dealing with a dangerous bull he once +owned. This animal grew daily more and more savage, until every one +stood in fear of it except the owner, who, as often happens in such +cases, persisted in thinking it quite harmless. At length, however, the +bull one day chased a neighbor, who had imprudently ventured to cross +the field in which it pastured, and overtaking him just as he reached +the fence, tossed him high in air, so that falling fortunately on the +farther side of the inclosure, he escaped with no more serious injuries +than some severe bruises and a broken nose. The bull, furious at the +escape of his prey, was bellowing and pawing the ground. "The bull must +be shot!" cried the man who helped off the injured neighbor. But Isaac +Stevens at once armed himself with a stout cudgel, coolly hobbled into +the field, disregarding all remonstrances and entreaties, fixed his eye +upon the enraged beast, backed him into a narrow corner where he could +not escape, and thrashed him over the head with the club with such +terrible severity that he was completely subdued, and ever after +remained perfectly gentle and submissive. + +Always strictly observing the Sabbath, he held liberal views of religion +and attended the Unitarian Church. He kept himself informed of the +current events of the day, taking the New York "Tribune" and Garrison's +"Liberator," and manifesting the greatest interest in education, +temperance, anti-slavery, and every cause that would make mankind better +or happier. "How he denied himself all comforts almost, and _quietly_ +sent money to free the slave and for the temperance cause! He was a +strong pillar of the foundation principles of right and justice that it +would be well for young men of this day to study," said one who knew him +well. + +He was, above all, a man of perfect integrity and truth, and of a strict +sense of justice. There was not a fibre of guile or indirection in his +moral nature. He held strong and ardent convictions, noble and lofty +ideals of duty and philanthropy, and an intense hatred and scorn of +wrong or oppression in any form. He strongly opposed and denounced the +use of liquors and tobacco, and became early in life a vehement and +outspoken abolitionist of slavery, at a period when the advocacy of such +doctrines demanded unusual moral courage as well as stern conviction of +right. At his decease, years afterwards, he bequeathed five hundred +dollars to the Anti-Slavery Society, requiring only that Wendell +Phillips should deliver a lecture in the parish church of North Andover. + +The untiring industry which, with his frugality and good management, +enabled him to achieve comparative independence so early in life, was +not the course of a drudge and miser, but of an ardent, resolute spirit +spurning poverty, debt, and dependence. All through life he manifested +an unconquerable aversion to debt. He loved a fast horse, and the old +mare which he kept until she died, over twenty-seven years old, was, in +her prime, the fastest in the town. After reading a newspaper or book, +he was in the habit of giving it to a neighbor, telling him to hand it +to another after perusing it. He took great pains with his orchards, and +planted apple-trees along the stone walls bordering his fields. He also +planted the noble elms now overhanging the old farmhouse, and the long +lines of this graceful tree now bordering the road from the house to the +crest of the hill overlooking the village and the road over Marble +Ridge, and the numerous clumps and rows in his fields wherever a sightly +eminence seemed to require such an adornment. + +His children were:-- + + HANNAH PEABODY, born September 24, 1815, died November 24, 1840. + SUSAN BRAGG, born February 14, 1817, died April 8, 1841. + ISAAC INGALLS, born March 25, 1818, died September 1, 1862. + ELIZABETH BARKER, born July 14, 1819, died December 10, 1846. + SARAH ANN, born January 13, 1822, died February 8, 1844. + MARY JANE, born August 5, 1823, died June 22, 1847. + OLIVER, born June 22, 1825. + +The following account of the ancestry of Hannah Cummings is given by her +nephew, Dr. George Mooar, D.D., of Oakland, California, who has +collected much information concerning the Cummings genealogy:-- + + "Hannah, wife of Isaac Stevens, was the third child of Deacon Asa + and Hannah (Peabody) Cummings, born October 23, 1785, married + September 29, 1814, and died November 3, 1827. + + "The line from her father to the first American ancestor runs thus: + Asa (6), Thomas (5), Joseph (4), Abraham (3), John (2), Isaac (1). + + "Deacon Asa was born in Andover, Massachusetts, but removed in 1798 + to Albany, Maine, a pioneer settler there, a trusted, intelligent, + and capable citizen, who in 1803 represented his district in the + General Court. + + "Captain Thomas (5) was born in Topsfield and died September 3, + 1765. He married Anna Kittell, the widow of Asa Johnson, of Andover. + + "Captain Joseph (4), of Topsfield, was quite a character. The + biographer of Dr. Manasseh Cutler says that he found among the + papers of that eminent person a notice of Captain Cummings in which + he is spoken of as a remarkable man, well versed in the politics of + the day, and he adds: 'From the interest Dr. Cutler felt in him, he + must have been a stanch patriot and Federalist.' In a notice which + appears in the 'Salem Gazette' we are told that when nearly a + hundred he would readily mount his horse from the ground. He died in + his one hundred and second year. + + "Abraham (3) was a resident of Woburn and of Dunstable. + + "John (2) was quite a large proprietor in Boxford, Massachusetts, + and later was one of the first fourteen proprietors of the town of + Dunstable. + + "Isaac (1) appears on a list of the 'Commoners of Ipswich in 1641, + but appears to have arrived in America three years before. No exact + knowledge of his previous residence in Great Britain has been + obtained. The prevailing tradition gives him a Scottish descent.' + + "An elder brother of Hannah Cummings was Dr. Asa Cummings, D.D., of + Portland, Maine, eminent for classical learning and piety, and + editor of the 'Christian Mirror' for many years." + + + + + CHAPTER II + + BIRTH.--BOYHOOD + + +ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS first saw the light at the old Marble Ridge +farmhouse, on the 25th of March, 1818. He was a delicate infant, and it +was impossible for his mother, with her other little ones and the +engrossing labors of the farmhouse, to bestow upon him the care his +condition required. His grandmother, one day visiting the farm, was +shocked to see him still in his cradle, though three years old, and, +remarking that unless he was taught soon he never would walk, insisted +upon taking him home with her, where, under her gentle and experienced +hands, he quickly learned to run about. After returning home his father +used to plunge him, fresh from bed, into a hogshead of cold water every +morning. + +Such heroic treatment would be sure to kill or cure, and perhaps no +better proof could be given of the native vigor of his constitution than +the fact that he lived, and became strong, active, and hardy. + +Even as a child he was active, daring, and adventurous. He used to climb +the lofty elms in front of his grandfather's house, and cling like a +squirrel to the topmost branches, laughing and chattering defiance to +his grandmother's commands and entreaties to come down. + +One afternoon Abiel Holt, the hired man on the farm, went a-fishing for +pickerel, and took Isaac, who was then a very little urchin just able to +run about cleverly. After catching a fine string of fish, they came to +the old causeway which crossed the water where now stands the dam under +the Essex Railroad, but which was then submerged several feet deep in +the water for some distance. + +A rude footway had been contrived here by driving down forked stakes at +suitable intervals along the causeway, and placing loose poles in the +crotches from stake to stake, forming one row for the feet and another a +little higher for the hands. + +The contrivance was rickety and unsafe to the last degree; the poles +swayed and bent at every step, and it required great care and the use of +both feet and hands to avoid a ducking. It was now time to drive up the +cows, which were pasturing beyond the water; so Holt, bidding the child +remain there, crossed over after them, taking with him the string of +fish, which he hung up on one of the stakes on the farther side, for he +wanted the pleasure of taking his spoils home in triumph, and feared, if +he left them with Isaac, the latter would take them and run home while +he was away. On returning he was struck with consternation to find no +trace of either the child or the fish. He carefully scrutinized the +water without result, and at length slowly returned to the farmhouse, +filled with misgivings, and was not a little relieved to find both his +charge and his fish safe at home. The child had worked his way across +the water by the poles, although, standing on the lower row, he could +hardly reach the upper one with extended arms, and had returned, holding +the string of fish in his teeth, in the same way. His father ever after +was particularly fond of relating this anecdote in proof of the daring +and adventurous spirit so early manifested. + +[Illustration: BIRTHPLACE OF GENERAL STEVENS, ANDOVER, MASS. + _From Historical Sketches of Andover, by Sarah Loring + Bailey_] + +He was a sensitive, earnest child, not demonstrative, but having great +affection and tenderness, which he lavished upon his mother. Her early +death was his first and greatest misfortune. When he was only seven +years old, his father, who always drove furiously, in driving with +his wife in his wagon rapidly around a corner, overset the vehicle. They +were thrown out violently upon the ground, and the unfortunate mother +struck upon her head. From this shock she never really recovered, and +died two years after the unhappy accident. During this period Isaac +attached himself closely to his mother, and acquired no slight influence +over her. The early death of this tender and devoted wife and mother +well-nigh destroyed the happiness of her family. Isaac ever cherished +her memory with the tenderest veneration. He thought that from her were +inherited great part of his talents, and that had she lived he would +have been spared the injudicious forcing of his mind in his childhood, +to which he always declared he owed a real mental injury. + +After the mother's death, a housekeeper was employed to provide for the +helpless little flock, and attend to the household duties; and two years +later the father married his second wife, Ann Poor. + +Isaac was sent to school before his fifth year, where from the first he +displayed great power of memory, close application, and devotion to +study. His teachers were astonished to find that he did not stop at the +end of the day's lesson, but habitually learned far beyond it, often +reciting page after page. It was said that there was no need of telling +Isaac how much to study; it was enough to show him where to begin, and +he would learn more than the teacher cared to hear. His first teacher, +Miss Susan Foster, said with astonishment one day, after hearing his +lesson in arithmetic, "There is no use for me to teach him arithmetic; +he is already far beyond me in that." + +After his tenth year he attended Franklin Academy, in North +Andover,--Old Put's school, as it was usually and more familiarly +styled,--kept by Mr. Simon Putnam, who attained great repute as a +teacher. This was situated on the hill north of the meeting-house, on +land given for the purpose by grandfather Jonathan. Here he studied the +usual English branches. Among his schoolmates were William Endicott, +Jr., the well-known philanthropist, Hon. Daniel Saunders, the late +George B. Loring, and Major George T. Clark. It appears that wrestling +was a favorite sport with the active and hardy boys at this school. + +His father, proud and ambitious on his account, kept him constantly at +school, and urged on to still greater efforts this earnest, ardent +nature, intense in everything he undertook. The evil effects of such +mistaken treatment soon made themselves felt. His mind became wearied +and dull from overtasking. The teacher advised rest. The boy, then but +ten years old, begged his father to take him out of school and let him +work on the farm, telling him that he could no longer study; that he +could not learn his lessons. But the father refused, not realizing the +son's condition, and bade him go back to school and study what he could. +Isaac then went to his uncle Nathaniel, who owned the Cochichewick +woolen mills, situated two miles below the farm, and obtained his +permission to work in the factory for a year. He prevailed upon his +grandmother to let him lodge at her house in order to be nearer the +factory; and having thus decided upon his course, went home and informed +his father of the arrangements he had made, who, astonished at the +judgment and resolution of the boy, acquiesced. So Isaac went to work in +the factory, lodging at his grandfather's, rising long before daylight +that he might eat a hurried breakfast, walk a mile to the factory, and +begin the day's work at five o'clock in the morning, and toiling ten to +twelve hours a day. He entered the weavers' room, where he soon learned +to manage a loom. The best weavers were women, it seems, and able to +run two looms apiece. Isaac at once determined to excel the most +capable; and before he left the factory, succeeded in reaching the goal +of his ambition, and managed four looms unassisted. + +After a year of this unremitting labor, he left the mills. As he was +returning home with the scanty sum he had earned in his pocket, taking +it to his father, he passed a shop where some tempting hot gingerbread +was displayed for sale, and felt an intense longing to buy a +penny-worth; but reflecting that his earnings belonged to his father, +and it would be wrong for him to spend any of them, he overcame the +desire and went home. But when he handed the money to his father, and +asked for a cent to buy the gingerbread with, he felt stung to the quick +by the latter's refusal. In truth, the father's hard struggle with +poverty and adverse circumstances had narrowed his noble nature. Too +much had life become to him nothing but hard work, self-sacrifice, and a +severe sense of duty. He did not appreciate the sensitive nature of a +child, and its needs of sympathy, recreation, and occasional indulgence. + +Directly across the road from the house was a small pool called the +frog-pond. Isaac selected a corner of this pond for his garden, filled +it up with stones, and covered them with rich earth brought from a +distance in his little cart with great pains and labor. He eagerly +seized every moment that could be spared from school and his unceasing +round of morning and evening chores to devote to this darling project. +At last the garden was prepared, and planted with his own favorite +seeds. But his father, fearing that it might distract and take up too +much time from his studies and duties about the farm, rudely uprooted +his tenderly cared-for plants, and put in potatoes instead. + +On another occasion his father's injudicious urging nearly proved +fatal. Isaac was helping in the hay-field, and was working with such +ardor and had accomplished so much that his father was actually +astonished. Instead of restraining, he praised him without stint. Under +this stimulus the ambitious boy redoubled his exertions until he was +prostrated by a sunstroke, resulting in a raging fever, from which he +barely escaped with life after a severe sickness. + +On another occasion, when twelve years old, he was working in the +hay-field, pitching hay upon the cart; he was badly ruptured, and had to +be carried to the house. As soon as he was able to travel he went alone +to Boston, and sought out Dr. Warren, a noted surgeon, and laid his case +before him. Dr. Warren was so much struck with the lad's courage and +intelligence that he refused to accept any fee. "If you do exactly what +I tell you, you will get well," he said, "and I know you will do so from +looking in your face." The surgeon had a truss made, and prescribed +treatment, but all the remainder of his life Isaac was obliged to wear +the truss, although he outgrew the injury in a measure until it broke +out afresh in Mexico from over-exertion. + +Measured by modern conditions, it was a severe and laborious home life +in which the farmer's boy grew up, but it was a wholesome one, and well +adapted to bring out all his powers. Morning and evening, throughout the +year, he had his round of duties, feeding and milking the cows, feeding +the pigs, cutting and bringing in wood, etc. During the winter he rose +long before daylight to attend to these chores and shovel snow from the +paths, then after a hasty breakfast trudged away to school, and on +returning again resumed the round of unending farm work. In summer there +was no school for three or four months, and then he worked on the farm, +hoeing corn, making hay, driving oxen, and performing all the hard and +varied labors of a New England farmer's son. But the New England farmers +of that day were the owners of the soil. They knew no superiors. The +Revolutionary struggle, as recent to them as the great Rebellion is to +us, was fresh and vivid in their minds, and stimulated noble ideas of +liberty and national independence. The standard of personal honesty, +manhood, and morals, bequeathed from their Puritan ancestry, was high. +Such was the moral atmosphere of Isaac Stevens's household, heightened +by his own earnest, philanthropic, and elevated sentiments. All his +children were intellectual and high-minded, and nothing can be more +touching than the constant ambition and striving of his five daughters +for education and self-improvement. All became teachers, but died young, +victims of consumption. + +Nor was the life of the youth nothing but a round of hard work and +privation. If he worked hard and studied hard, he enjoyed play with +equal zest, and shared the rougher sports of those days with his cousins +and other boys of his age. They were more pugnacious and rougher than +nowadays. Wrestling was a common sport, and boyish fights and scuffles +were usual. + +At the age of fifteen he entered Phillips Academy in Andover. Nathan W. +Hazen, Esq., a well-known and respected lawyer of the town, furnished +him board and lodgings, in return for which he took care of the garden, +and did the chores about the place. One of his schoolmates, describing +his first appearance at the academy, said: "The door opened, and there +quietly entered an insignificant, small boy, carrying in his arms a load +of books nearly as large as himself. But the impression of +insignificance vanished as soon as one regarded his large head, earnest +face, and firm, searching, and fearless dark hazel eye." + +He remained at the academy over a year. As usual, he took the front +rank from the beginning. His reputation as a scholar, especially in +mathematics, extended beyond the school. Besides his studies he took +sole care of Mr. Hazen's garden, a half acre in extent, groomed the +horse, milked the cow, and fed them, cut and brought in the wood, and +did many other jobs about the house, performing an amount of labor, as +Mr. Hazen declared, sufficient to dismay many a hired man. He studied +early in the morning and late at night. His power of concentrating his +mind upon any subject was extraordinary. His industry was untiring. The +impress this boy of fifteen made upon those with whom he came in contact +during his stay at this place is really remarkable. Mr. Hazen, who +proved a considerate friend and adviser to the struggling youth, relates +that every evening Isaac would bring his chair close to the office +table, at which the former was accustomed to read or write, in order to +avail himself of the light, and would work out mathematical problems on +his slate. He would remain quietly with his hand to his head in deep +thought for a little time, when suddenly he would shower a perfect +rainstorm of figures upon his slate without hesitation, or erasure, +oftentimes completely filling it. Generally the correct result was +reached; but when the solution was not found the first time, he would +rapidly wipe off every figure and begin again as before. His mind always +sought out and mastered the bottom principle. It was remarked that, +whenever he had once solved a problem, he could unhesitatingly solve all +others of the same character. + +On one occasion a mathematician of some note, who had just published a +new arithmetic, brought his work to the academy, and tested the +acquirements of the scholars by giving them his new problems to solve. +When Isaac was called to the blackboard, he astonished the author and +the teacher alike by the ease and rapidity with which he solved every +example. They plied him again and again with the most difficult +problems, but he mastered them in every instance. "Well, sir," exclaimed +the author, somewhat piqued, "I think you could make the key to this +book." Isaac took the book, and in three days returned it with every +example worked out. + +A very difficult problem was sent from Yale College to the academy. +While the teachers and scholars were puzzling over it, Isaac sat in +thought for half an hour with his hand to his head, then rapidly worked +out the problem on his slate and presented the solution. + +Young as he was, it seems that he had thought enough on religious +subjects to become a decided Universalist and Unitarian. A religious +revival took place while he was at the academy, and many of the scholars +were brought within its influence. Among others, one of the teachers +became "converted," and sought all means to promote a similar experience +among his pupils. In order to remove the stumbling-blocks of doubt and +ignorance, he offered to answer any questions they might propound on +religious topics. The first question Isaac put, "Can a sincere +Universalist be saved?" was met by a decided and uncompromising "No." +But the youth plied the unfortunate zealot with such queries that he was +forced to confess his inability to answer them, and to withdraw his +offer. Once, when he wanted the whole class to attend one of the revival +meetings, he put it to them that all who were willing to dispense with +the afternoon session and attend the meeting should rise. All promptly +stood up except Isaac, who resolutely kept his seat. "Every one in favor +except Stevens," exclaimed the teacher with some bitterness, realizing +the protest against his own bigotry. In truth, the youth's sense of +right had been shocked by the doctrines he heard advanced; he was +strongly opposed to such revival meetings, and his earnest nature would +not bend in a matter of principle. + +At one of these meetings his two sisters, Hannah and Susan, yielded to +the exhortations and influences of the occasion, and took their seats on +the converts' or mourners' bench, as it was called. Perceiving this, +Isaac immediately marched up to the front, and made them both leave the +church with him, no slight proof of his influence over them, older than +himself. In fact, while they felt great pride in his talents, his +sisters had come still more to respect and lean upon his sound judgment +and firm will. He lavished upon them all the great tenderness and +affection of his strong and earnest nature. + +During his boyhood he was affected with excessive diffidence, or +bashfulness. With characteristic resolution and good sense, he set +himself to overcome this weakness. He made it a point always to address +any one whose presence inspired this awkward feeling, but, he said, it +was years before he overcame it. + +After a year and four months of this severe application, Isaac completed +his course at Phillips Academy. He wished to study law with Mr. Hazen, +but that gentleman discouraged the idea. At this juncture his uncle, +William Stevens, suggested West Point, and wrote to Mr. Gayton P. +Osgood, the member of Congress for the North Essex District, in which +Andover was situated, inquiring if there was an appointment in his gift, +and suggesting Isaac's name. Mr. Osgood replied that there was no +vacancy. But uncle William was not satisfied; he wrote to William C. +Phillips, the member representing the South Essex District, by whom he +was informed that no cadet had been appointed from Mr. Osgood's +district. Accordingly he formally made application in behalf of his +nephew. A lawyer by profession, and cashier of the Andover bank, he was +a man of some influence. Mr. Hazen and other friends joined their +recommendations. Mr. Phillips exerted a favorable influence, and +although there were other candidates with more influential backing, Mr. +Osgood bestowed upon Isaac the desired appointment. Both uncle William +and Mr. Hazen declared that the recommendations had little weight, and +that Mr. Osgood selected him on account of his reputation for ability +and scholarship. + + + + + CHAPTER III + + WEST POINT + + +The following letter to his uncle William, written immediately after his +arrival at West Point, vividly portrays the mingled emotions that +stirred the heart of the raw but ambitious country youth on reaching the +goal of his boyish hopes,--his ardent patriotism, awakened by the +historic scenes about him; his ambition and determination to be first in +his class, "by unflinching resolution, indomitable perseverance, fixing +his whole soul upon the object he wishes to attain with concentrated and +undivided attention;" his gratitude to his uncle and friends for his +appointment, and his affectionate regard for his family. It is also +significant of his self-reliant character that he expresses no fears in +regard to the impending examination for admission, but remarks, with +well-grounded confidence, that "there can be no difficulty in sustaining +myself with honor and respectability." + + WEST POINT, June 13, 1835. + + DEAR UNCLE,--I now enjoy the long-anticipated happiness of + addressing you from West Point. And perhaps you may ask, does it + meet my expectations? I am not prepared to answer this question + fully at present, but will say that I like my situation, although + subject to very strict regulations, and fully believe there can be + no difficulty in obeying every regulation and sustaining myself with + honor and respectability. And be assured that I always shall + consider myself greatly indebted to you for your kind exertions in + my behalf, and it shall be my determination to demean myself in such + a manner as to convince you and all my friends that their exertions + have not been thrown away. Here I am surrounded by young men from + every State in the Union, who are eagerly endeavoring to arrive at + distinction, many of whom have determined, and, what is better + still, will make every exertion to carry their resolve into effect, + to be first in their class. + + Every one must buckle on his armor for the conflict: let him be + girded with unflinching resolution, indomitable perseverance, + decision and firmness of mind, singleness of purpose, integrity of + heart, let him fix his _whole_ soul upon the object he wishes to + attain with concentrated and undivided attention, and he will + undoubtedly, with scarcely the possibility of a doubt, obtain the + post of honor. + + The first class graduated yesterday. The whole number attached to + this class was 54, which is the greatest number that ever graduated + at any one time from this institution. There were splendid fireworks + last evening, which lasted until nine o'clock. All the cadets were + permitted to partake of the sport. It is said that the cadets who + leave here are so affected that they even shed tears. Is it to be + wondered at? Is there a spot in the whole United States which is + associated with so many hallowed and pleasing recollections of the + patriotism, of the struggles, and of the victories of our + Revolutionary fathers? We are as it were in the cradle of liberty, + in the stronghold of freedom, and may we be scions worthy of the + tears and of the blood of our Revolutionary sires: may I not + disgrace my country, my State, and that character of proud disdain + and patriotic valor which inspired the heroes of Andover on the morn + of Bunker's fight; and above all may I cherish that love of freedom + and sympathy for the sufferings of mankind which characterized the + life of Washington, of Kosciusko, and the other worthies of the + Revolution; and in fine may I cherish a heart full of gratitude for + those kind friends who by their exertions have assisted me to + procure my present situation. I shall be examined Monday, and the + encampment will be pitched on Tuesday. We shall have no uniforms + until the 4th of July, at which time the new cadets mount guard. As + soon as I have entered upon the active duties of the station, I + shall again write to Andover. Give my love to father, mother, + brother and sisters, to your own family, and all inquiring friends, + remembering me especially to grandmother. I remain your grateful + nephew, + + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + WM. STEVENS, ESQ. + + +He entered the academy resolved to place himself at the head of his +class, not in presumptuous or ignorant self-confidence, but fully +recognizing the arduous struggle before him. A boy of seventeen, with +scanty advantages of education, but inured to hard work and hard study, +he did not hesitate to contest the palm with youths older and far better +prepared than himself, of whom two at least had received a collegiate +education, and had publicly avowed their determination to attain the +first place. These were Henry W. Halleck, of New York, distinguished as +major-general, and at one time commanding the army in the war of the +Rebellion, and Henry J. Biddle, of Philadelphia, both of whom were older +in years, of assured social position and wealthy connections, +accomplished French scholars, and well up in mathematics; and one may +fancy the derision with which they regarded the rivalry of the +undersized farmer's boy from Andover. + + "One evening," says General E.D. Townsend, late adjutant-general of + the army, "a classmate of mine, who was very fond of mathematics, + General Israel Vogdes, came to my room, and told me there was a + 'Plebe' just entered from my State, who was a fine mathematician + already, and would stand 'head of his class in math.' This + interested me, and I went around to offer to assist my + fellow-statesman in entering on his career. This was previous to his + first encampment. I found Mr. Stevens a modest, straightforward + young man, who, in reply to my offer of any assistance I could give + him, informed me he wanted to stand head of his class,--that he was + not afraid of mathematics, but knew nothing whatever of French. I at + once suggested to him to do what was sometimes but not often done, + to apply for permission to take lessons during the encampment of one + of the professors, for which a small compensation would be allowed + to be deducted from Mr. Stevens's pay. He caught at this idea, and + subsequently carried it out. The result was he stood fourteenth in + French in the first January examination, and first in mathematics. + This did not satisfy him, as I found on congratulating him on what + I deemed a most creditable standing. The next June examination, by + his untiring application, he stood head both in mathematics and + French. There were some four young men in his class who were ripe + scholars when they entered West Point, and who were by no means + wanting in studious habits. + + "The following year, drawing was added to the course. Mr. Stevens + came to me for more advice, saying he had not the slightest notion + of drawing. I suggested to him, first, great care in his outlines to + get them accurate, and then, if he found on trial that he had no + talent for shading, that by using a very fine-pointed crayon, and + making with patience and care light, smooth marks, he might succeed + in producing a well-finished and pretty picture. He came to me + shortly after to say that he had improved upon my hint, for he first + filled in the outline with a fine pencil, and then traced over this + with a coarse one the prominent lines of the picture. Well, he stood + head in drawing, and this although at least one of his competitors + was quite expert with his pencil before he entered the academy. As + might be expected from the beginning, Mr. Stevens graduated at the + head of his class in every branch throughout the course." + +Among his classmates, who afterwards rose to be generals in the army, +will be recognized Henry W. Halleck; Henry J. Hunt, the distinguished +chief of artillery of the Army of the Potomac; George Thom; Edward O.C. +Ord; Edward R. S. Canby, who commanded the army against Mobile in 1865, +and was massacred by the Modocs in 1873, when in command of the +Department of the Columbia; and James B. Ricketts; and in the +Confederate army, Jeremy F. Gilmer. + +Among those in the three classes above him, distinguished as generals in +the army, were Montgomery C. Meiggs, quartermaster-general during the +war, Daniel P. Woodbury, James Lowry Donaldson, Thomas W. Sherman, Henry +H. Lockwood, John W. Phelps, Robert Allen, of the class of '36. + +Henry W. Benham, Alexander B. Dyer, S. Parker Scammon, Israel Vogdes, +Edward D. Townsend, William H. French, John Sedgwick, the soldierly and +steadfast commander of the Sixth Corps, beloved of his troops, Joseph +Hooker, John B.S. Todd, of the class of '37; and on the Confederate +side, Braxton Bragg, Jubal A. Early, Edmond Bradford, and John C. +Pemberton. + +William F. Barry, Irvin C. McDowell, Robert S. Granger, Justus +McKinstry, Charles F. Ruff, and Andrew J. Smith, of the class of '38, +and P.G. T. Beauregard, the distinguished Confederate leader, as also +William J. Hardee, Edward Johnson, and Alexander W. Reynolds. + +In the class of '40 were the distinguished W.T. Sherman, George H. +Thomas, George W. Getty, Stewart Van Vleit, and William Hays; and on the +Southern side, John P. McCawn, Richard S. Ewell, and Bushrod R. Johnson. + +In the class of '41 were Zealous B. Tower, Horatio G. Wright, Amiel W. +Whipple, Albion W. Howe, Nathaniel Lyon, John M. Brannon, and Schuyler +Hamilton. + +In the class of '42 were Henry L. Eustis, John Newton, William S. +Rosecrans, Barton S. Alexander, John Pope, Seth Williams, Abner +Doubleday, Napoleon J.T. Dana, Ralph W. Kirkham, and George Sykes; among +the Confederates, James Longstreet, D.H. Hill, Gustavus W. Smith, +Mansfield Lovell, Lafayette McLaws, and Earl Van Dorn. + +Now fairly entered upon the life and duties of a cadet, his intense and +ardent nature found full occupation. His ambition was aroused. Hard +study agreed with him. The days sped rapidly and pleasantly away. He +fell into companionship with the most talented and high-spirited young +men. Nor, time and attention all absorbed by severe application, did he +sink into a mere bookworm. Every morning before breakfast, rain or +shine, he walked around the post for exercise, a distance of two miles. +He shared, too, in the escapades natural to a free and spirited youth, +and did not always come off scot-free from these scrapes, for his name +stands forty-third on the conduct roll for the first year. + + "I have never been homesick for a single minute since I have been + here," he writes his sisters Hannah and Elizabeth, September 8, + 1835; "I never passed three months more pleasantly in my life, and + since I commenced my studies time never seemed more fleeting. We are + obliged to stand guard once a week, drill every day, have a dress + parade, with roll calls, etc. We study ten and a half hours a day, + two and a half of which are spent in the recitation room. I have + recited four lessons in algebra and three in French, and I think I + can get my maximum unless sick, or otherwise disabled, that is, miss + no questions in any of my studies the coming year. I can get both of + my lessons in half an hour, and I shall have much leisure time. If I + had some Greek books I think I could pass my time to better + advantage. + + "I like the military life very much. There is as fine a set of + fellows here as ever breathed the air. We study hard, eat hearty, + sleep sound, and play little. In camp every one was wide awake for a + scrape, or for any kind of fun. But in barracks we are as sober and + steady as Quakers. We go to the section room with long and solemn + faces. I assure you we know that by study and severe application + alone we can keep our places. I admire the spirit which pervades the + whole class. The common remark is, 'I intend to bone it with all my + might.' _To bone it_ means _to study hard_. Every one seems + determined to rise, or keep his present standing at any rate. We are + divided in four sections in mathematics, and seven in French, + arranged in alphabetical order. Consequently I stand in the last + section in each. A transfer will be made in the course of the week, + those who do best being put in the higher sections, and those who do + worst into the lower sections. I hope to rise in both. That I may do + so, I intend to get my lessons in the best possible manner. It shall + be my aim not only to understand my lessons, but to convince my + instructors that I understand them. To do this I must accustom + myself to collect my ideas readily, to be free from embarrassment + and trepidation, and always to be perfectly calm and + self-possessed." + + TO HANNAH. + + November 28. + + I am doing pretty well. My health is strong and vigorous. I am not + only contented with my situation, but like it very much indeed. We + are kept tremendously strict, I assure you. I was visiting last + Wednesday evening, and they arrested me for it, and did not release + me until this evening, and in addition to that they obliged me to + perform an extra tour of Sunday guard duty, which is very tough, I + assure you, this cold weather. + +Uncle William, it seems, was disappointed at his early standing in the +class, and wrote him rather a reproachful letter of exhortation and +advice, winding up with the wish that he should stand first in +mathematics by the end of the year. In reply he explains that his first +rating was low because his name came near the end of the alphabet. + + WEST POINT, December 5, 1835. + + DEAR UNCLE,--Your letter was received yesterday, and read with much + pleasure. I feel gratified that I still retain your confidence, and + that you expect me to sustain an honorable stand. It is also rather + flattering than otherwise to know that you feel disappointed because + I have nothing more than a respectable standing in my class, for it + shows that your estimate of my abilities is as high as, perhaps + higher than, it should be. I assure you that your wish shall be + gratified not only within the close of the first year, but within + the first six months, if it is within my power. Should my stand be + no higher than at present, you must not feel disappointed. For such + a stand is not only "_very respectable_," but very high in a class + like ours. I beg of you, however, to think no more of the + communication, because my stand even then was much higher than 19. + The sections since then have been rearranged, and I have risen very + much. You must also recollect that at first I was within seven of + the foot both in M. and F. In two weeks I rose 25 men in M. and 80 + in F. I then remained in the second section in mathematics till the + middle of November, when I was transferred to the first section. + + There are only two in our class who have got the maximum at every + recitation both in M. and F. since the commencement of our studies; + these are cadet Biddle from Penn. and a fellow from Mass., whose + birthplace, I believe, is Andover. I am now at the head of my + section in French. My present standing in M. _is_ as _high_ as the + _highest_, and it is considered so by every member of my class. + There are four of us in M. who have done equally well, that is, we + have each of us got the maximum, done all the extras, and + demonstrate equally as well. Their names are H.J. Biddle, of Penn., + I. Butler, of Va., H. W. Halleck, of N.Y., and ----, of Mass. I have + often thought of the advice you gave me, and I hope I have profited + by it. I have spent two hours in studying other authors, and in + learning to demonstrate eloquently and with perspicuity, to every + hour devoted to the text-book. In French I have risen more than any + other man in the class. My stand at first was 67th, now it is 22d. + When I came, I had scarcely looked into a French book for five + years, and could not pronounce a single syllable. And, believe me, + it is not egotism which prompts me to say this, but it is in order + to put to rest all your apprehensions on my account. I also wish to + assure you that I associate with none whom I ought not to respect. + + WEST POINT, December 20, 1835. + + DEAR FATHER,--You have probably received a communication from the + War Department giving my stand for the month of November, which I + hope will give you better satisfaction than the last return. I think + my general standing in January will be still better. I shall be + examined one fortnight from to-morrow, and I intend to do my best. + My standing will greatly depend upon it. At the examination, each + one has a demonstration to perform, besides some 20 or 30 questions + to answer. If my demonstration is good, and the answers to all my + questions are correct, my stand will remain in mathematics at least + as good as it was in November, which, I presume, is fourth. In + French I think I shall rise considerably, because my mark is as good + as any one's, and I think I have gained the good-will of my teacher. + Very much depends upon this. We can always secure their esteem by + being attentive and respectful, and, last though not least, by + paying considerable attention to our personal appearance. Lieutenant + Church, my professor in mathematics, and Mr. Molinard, my professor + in French, are both very fine men and accomplished teachers. The + latter is a Frenchman. + + I am acquainted with many Westerners, who generally are very fine + fellows. They are generally very generous and open-hearted, and it + is very easy to get acquainted with them. There have been two duels + fought between cadets since I have been here, though no ill + consequences followed. In each case the combatants were Westerners. + If they had been found out, they, together with the seconds, would + have been dismissed. + + Our State does the best of any in the fourth class. There are three + in the first section in mathematics, and two in the first section in + French. Penn. has two in each. Henry J. Biddle, of Penn., will + probably be head in mathematics in January. His name comes before + those who have an equal mark with him; he is a splendid + mathematician, and has graduated at a college, and was undoubtedly + better prepared than any other member of the class. He will also be + head in French. We have a splendid collection of Philosophical, + Mathematical, and Historical works in our library. There is no + difficulty in getting books, and I intend to avail myself of its + many advantages. There is a universal history of modern times, + consisting of 42 volumes. I am now reading Rollin's Ancient History. + Our evenings are very busy. We study from half past five till ten. + +It is noticeable in his letters that he finds the regular course of +studies very easy, owing undoubtedly not less to the remarkable native +powers of his mind than to his habits of study and faculty of intense +application. Yet, as in boyhood, not content with the prescribed +curriculum, and spurred on by his ambition to achieve the headship of +his class, he takes extra French lessons, spends "two hours in studying +other authors, and in learning to demonstrate eloquently and with +perspicuity, to every hour devoted to the text-book," and reads Rollin's +Ancient History. Such indomitable resolution and energy combined with +great ability could not fail. In six months he had gained a high place +in the first section, and had become the competitor with three others +for the leadership. He writes uncle William, who has congratulated him +on his standing, and now thinks it best to caution him against studying +too hard:-- + + WEST POINT, February 1, 1836. + + DEAR UNCLE,--It was very gratifying to learn that my standing was so + satisfactory to my friends. Since it has been attained by no extra + exertion, it is incumbent on me to _deserve_ to sustain it for the + future by strict and unwearied attention to all my academic studies. + + Your caution respecting hard study shall be observed, for the very + good reason that it is impossible to do otherwise. The regulations + in this respect are very good, and are such as to secure to each one + the privilege of studying as much as is necessary, while it + restrains all from over-exertion. We retire at ten and rise at six. + Of the remaining sixteen, four hours are devoted to recreation, + meals, etc., and twelve to study. Of these twelve hours, two and one + half are spent in the section room. The intercourse between the + cadets is so free and uninterrupted that it is impossible to study + except during study hours. Surely twelve hours' study per day ought + to injure no one of a sound constitution. + + Our class will have a society next fall. Every class, except the + fourth, has one or more societies, which meet every Saturday + evening. We have some very fine speakers in the corps, and many take + great pains to improve themselves. + + You wish to know our uniforms, rations, etc. Our uniform is gray. + Our pantaloons are made as usual, except a stripe of black velvet on + each leg. Cousin Charles can describe our coats, which are the same + both winter and summer. In summer we wear white pants made of Russia + drilling. + + Remember me to all inquiring friends, especially to grandmother and + your own family. + + Your nephew, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + N.B. Tell our folks to write soon. + +To his sister Susan:-- + + WEST POINT, February 23, 1836. + + DEAR SISTER,--Be assured that advice from _you_, and advice from + _all those_ whom I _know_ to be my _friends_, will afford me the + greatest pleasure, and will always be received with the most + respectful attention. The disgusting habits of chewing, smoking, + etc., I abominate, and therefore shall never indulge in them. As for + drinks, either distilled or fermented, I do not use them, because in + the first place they cannot be obtained, and, in the second place, I + have no desire for them. The fact of the case is, that in barracks + there are no temptations offered us but what every one who has any + mind could easily resist. In camp it is not the case; then many + temptations are offered us, to which we are in great danger of + yielding, since we have much leisure. When a person has his whole + time employed, there is little danger of falling into bad habits. + Last fall, when I commenced the Algebra, I had very little to do, + and came very near contracting some very bad habits, as sleeping in + the morning, etc., which at first required some little difficulty in + breaking; but now I do not think of such a thing, not even Sunday + mornings, and I often rise at four or five o'clock. This is owing to + having hard lessons to get. You mention that you are studying Latin + and like it very much. I have but one caution to give you on this + subject, which is, get your grammar perfectly. Everything depends + upon this. You can never make a good Latin scholar unless you know + everything about the grammar. Since you are studying French, I + intend next encampment to write you a letter in French, which you + must answer, and we will correct each other. We use Levisac's + Grammar, and at every lesson get about half a page of exercises, and + are obliged to get them so that we can write any sentence our Prof. + gives us upon the blackboard without referring to the books. We are + now writing sentences upon the pronomial verbs. We get for our + translation eight pages in Charles XII. per day. Our teacher, Mr. + Bevard (the author of the French Lessons), is a very good linguist, + and the most thorough teacher I ever was under. He is very + particular about our pronunciation, and corrects us very frequently. + I think by June I shall be able to pronounce French pretty well and + read it fluently, and shall endeavor to rise considerably. + + You must write whenever you can find it convenient, and your letters + shall always be punctually answered. I observe that you pay the + postage. I wish that you would allow me to pay it, as I think I am + better able to do it than you. Remember me to all inquiring friends. + + Your brother, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + Miss S.B. STEVENS. + +His letters show the maturity of the mind and judgment of the youth of +seventeen, and exhibit a slight formality and precision that indicates +that he was taking pains in the composition. His correspondence must +have taken no little time. His great, warm heart went out towards all +his relations, and he was frequently writing to his uncle William, and +his cousins in Andover and Salem, Mass., in Albany, Maine, and in +Nashville, Tenn. He wrote constantly to his father and sisters, keenly +alive to their welfare and happiness. The latter were beginning to +scatter widely from the paternal roof-tree. Hannah, the eldest, was at +Haverhill, earning her livelihood. Susan was attending the female +seminary at the South Parish (Andover); Mary was at Methuen, at Mr. +Stephen Barker's; and only Sarah and Elizabeth remained at home. Deeply +sympathizing with them, he comforts them, urges them to treat their +stepmother with respect, and touchingly alludes to their father's +unfortunate condition, his growing infirmities, and his sincere +affection for and devotion to his children. + +The first academic year rolled rapidly away. One day, as the examination +drew near, Halleck and Biddle were comparing notes as to the prospects. +"That little Stevens," said the former, "is driving ahead like the +devil, and he is sure to be first in mathematics. I don't think he can +beat me in French, at any rate." "And I am sure," rejoined Biddle, "that +he cannot touch me in drawing next year. One thing I have made up my +mind to,--if he gains the head of the class over me, I shall resign." +This dialogue was overheard, and repeated to "little Stevens," who +related it in after years with some amusement. + +He had pursued his object with unflagging zeal, energy, and +determination during the year, but, reflecting how heavily he was +handicapped in the race by men like Biddle, Butler, and Halleck, so much +older and farther advanced in their studies at the beginning, he might +well feel anxious. He entered the examination room, as he describes it, +cool and collected, with nerves high-strung yet under perfect control, +and fully determined to come out ahead. He was not disappointed. He rose +to the first place,--a place, once achieved, which no competitor was to +wrest from him. + + CAMP JONES, July 6, 1836. + + DEAR UNCLE,--I received your letter by Mr. Johnson, and although + short it was very acceptable.... We had a fine time on the Fourth + of July, an oration, dinner, etc. I had a great desire to spend the + Fourth at New York city. I applied and obtained a leave of two days, + commencing on Sunday noon and ending on Tuesday; had a very fine + time,--went to the Navy Yard, Brooklyn, got introduced to about half + a dozen midshipmen, etc. The military were out, as well as several + societies. In the evening I went to the theatre, where Celeste + danced _as usual_. + + Since we have been in camp we have had a very easy time, nothing to + do but go on guard two or three times per week, attend roll calls + and dress parades. Next week we will be drilled three times per day + as well as recite in infantry tactics, and attend the + dancing-school. I have come to the determination to study French + this encampment: shall commence next week. I cannot reasonably + expect to keep my present standing in that branch unless I exert + myself. I can translate quite readily, but I write quite + indifferently, and can speak it but very little, whereas there are + three immediately below me who can read, write, and speak the + language very well. Why the Board placed me above them is more than + I can conceive. Two of them have told me they _would rise me_, and I + have told them they _should not do it_. If they _do_ rise me, I + shall not complain; and if they do not, so much the better. As to + mathematics, I have no cause for fear,--both Biddle and Halleck + admit I ought to stand head, and my professor had no doubts about + who should be placed there. As soon as we reënter barracks, we + commence drawing. Success in this branch depends as much (and + perhaps even more) upon persevering application as on a natural + taste. I intend to do my very best, otherwise I shall fall very much + in general merit, even should I keep my standing in other branches. + Biddle will stand head, or near the head, in D., as he now draws + very well. If he was third in D. and I was twelfth, he would rise me + in general merit. Our merit rolls will be published in about two + weeks. I am entitled to five, and shall send one home. In this roll + the standing of every cadet, the class to which he belongs, and the + number of his demerits are published. Mass. stands better in my + class than any other State. Greene and Grafton, both from Boston, + stand ninth and tenth. But there was one from Salem found deficient + in French, although he passed well in M. I think he is a smart + fellow, and will stand high next year. His name is Humber. He had + been a sailor for six years, and French came very hard to him by + reason of the very limited knowledge he had of language. I suppose + that the farmers must have begun haying in good earnest. I should + much prefer working on a farm for two or three months to the life I + now lead. It is now thirteen months since I have done any work to + which I have hitherto been accustomed, and I shall probably _soon + get my hand out_. Many of the cadets, chiefly those who come from + the slavery States, have a great contempt for our Yankee farmers, + and even pretend to compare them with their slaves. They have the + greatest contempt for all those who gain a subsistence by the sweat + of their brows. For my own part I shall always respect every man who + is honest and industrious, and more particularly those who live in + the manner that has been ordained by God himself; and whenever any + man, in conversation with me or in my hearing, compares that class, + of which I am proud to be one, with slaves, I shall always consider + it as an insult offered to myself, and shall act accordingly. + Remember me to all inquiring friends. Write when convenient. + + Your nephew, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + WM. STEVENS, Esq. + + CAMP JONES, WEST POINT, August 16, 1836. + + DEAR UNCLE,--You probably have seen most of my letters that I have + written home this encampment; you will see that I have taken things + fair and easy, and have had quite a pleasant time. I can always get + a permission to walk into the country whenever I ask for it, so + that, between attending my military duties, dancing, rambling about + in the country, and reading novels, I could not do otherwise than + pass my time pleasantly. I cut rather a sorry figure dancing, as + might be expected, but there is a chance for improvement, which I + intend to make the best of. + + There is a standing society in the corps called the Dialectic + Society. Ten or fifteen persons are selected from each class except + the fourth class, so that it consists of forty or fifty members. The + society is continued by selecting the above number from every new + class after it has been here one year. I intend to get elected into + it, if possible. They have a fine collection of books to the amount + of several hundred volumes. There are also many fine speakers in it, + and many of them take great pains to improve themselves, even to the + neglect of their studies. This is unquestionably bad policy. It is + losing a dollar for the sake of saving a sixpence; but there is no + kind of difficulty in paying proper attention to our studies, and + improving ourselves in writing and speaking: by writing, I of course + mean composing. If you will examine our merit rolls, you will see + that Jennings and Halbert, of the second class, are among the + deficients. These men were decidedly the best writers in the class, + and the former was the orator on the Fourth of July. As it is always + better to _act_ than to _talk_, so they have missed it in neglecting + their studies in order to become good speakers. + + As I stand head in French, you may possibly suppose I can speak the + language. Such is not the case; but one thing _is_ certain, I am + determined to be able to speak it one year from this time. But how I + shall do it is another thing. I can write it some, but it will + require great pains to be able to write it correctly and speak it + fluently. Neither time nor patience shall be wanting on my part in + order to accomplish both the above objects. As soon as we commence + studying, I intend to have a talk with Mr. Bevard, the head teacher + in French, and a most estimable man, about it, and do as he directs + me. + + In return for this I shall expect a good long letter, telling me all + the news and giving me good advice. Remember me to all inquiring + friends, to Aunt Eliza, and cousins Eliza, William, Susan, and + George. + + I remain your nephew, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + WM. STEVENS, Esq. + + WEST POINT, September 1, 1836. + + DEAR FATHER,--In my letters you often have me write about my leave + next year. I look forward to this with a great deal of pleasure. As + you may well suppose, I want to see my friends very much. How long a + leave had I better get? I can have ten weeks if I choose, or a + shorter time. I am now a corporal, and shall probably be made a + sergeant next June. If I get a leave of ten weeks, I cannot keep my + office. But if I retain it, my leave will not exceed four or five + weeks; but to make up for this I could get as long a leave the year + after; whereas, if I resigned my office and took the ten weeks' + leave, I could get no leave the next encampment. The office now is + not worth much, but it is very well to have it when I am in the + first class, for then I shall be made a lieutenant, if my conduct is + good. What had I best do? If I continue to be head in mathematics, + there is a chance of my being made an assistant professor in M. next + year. Two of the cadet professors will then graduate, and their + places will have to be filled. I do not think, however, it is best + to place any dependence upon it. If there was an even chance of my + being made such, I would not hesitate about resigning my office, if + you should think it best to obtain a leave of ten weeks. + + Your son, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + Mr. ISAAC STEVENS. + + + WEST POINT, September 2, 1836. + + DEAR FATHER,--Yesterday we commenced our studies. We entered the + barracks the 30th of August. The ball on the 29th was a most + splendid one, and the hall was very full. We made use of the + mess-hall, which was decorated in fine style. Our band was present, + and their performances served to increase their reputation. The ball + was continued until after three o'clock, but I did not remain after + half past one. It was estimated that nearly six hundred visitors + were present. As this is the only thing of the kind we have during + the year, the corps take unusual pains to have everything done in + the best manner, and great care was taken that the whole should + present quite a military appearance. Many of the lamps were + encircled by brightly burnished bayonets, which served as + reflectors. Directly in front of the hall was a battery of cannon, + in rear of which sentinels were stationed to keep off those who had + no right to be present. I enjoyed myself very much, and took part in + several cotillions. + + We marched into barracks the day after the ball, and were allowed a + day or two to arrange things. My situation is much different now + from what it was one year since. Now I have attained a situation + which then I scarcely hoped for. Now I am surrounded with my + classmates and friends, when one year since I had no friends; for we + were strangers to each other, and consequently displayed that cold + civility, and uttered those unmeaning compliments, which distinguish + the intercourse of strangers. One year since I was unknown to the + officers of the institution; now I trust I have secured the + confidence and esteem of those with whom I have come in contact. + Then I was a _poor plebe_, who had not passed his January + examination; now I no longer bear that title, but possess the + privileges and the name of an _old cadet_. + + The fourth class is a very large one, upwards of a hundred. Next + June I do not believe upwards of sixty will be left, and it is + doubtful whether upwards of forty-five graduate, so many are found + deficient and discharged. My room-mates are the same as last year, + with the exception of Mr. Bacon. I think we shall always room + together, at least I hope so. Both Carpenter and Callender are hard + students and steady fellows. The former is a very smart man. The + latter you will find, by reference to some of my old letters, roomed + with me before January, resigned, and was reappointed this year. I + do not expect to stand first next January, but think my standing + will not be below second. Drawing will come hard to me, and I shall + stand quite low the first three or four months. No efforts of my own + shall be wanting to secure a good standing in this branch. We spend + six hours per week in the drawing academy, but I intend to practice + twelve hours per week in my own room. + + Your son, + ISAAC A. STEVENS. + + Mr. ISAAC STEVENS. + +From early boyhood General Stevens made a strong impression upon every +one he met. Undersized, and at first glance insignificant in appearance, +his intense individuality and intellect were always deeply felt. At once +he commanded the respect of the professors at the academy; and their +recollections of him, and of his characteristics, were still vivid after +the lapse of forty years, and the continual passing of an army of youth +before their eyes. Said Professor W.H.C. Bartlett, July 16, 1877, who +was professor of natural and experimental philosophy:-- + + "General Stevens was a small, undersized, young man when he entered + West Point, very modest in demeanor. He had the habit of speaking + carefully and distinctly, and of clearly and precisely expressing + the exact idea he wished to convey. His mind was comprehensive, + given to generalizations; he had the faculty of generalizing, of + always thinking out first principles. In solving a mathematical + problem, he would apply the principles which governed the class of + problems, and not simply seek a solution of the single one before + him. He was very early regarded by the faculty as a man of great + talent and promise, sure to take a high stand in his class and in + the world. He was popular with his class, but his popularity arose + more from their opinion of his abilities than from social qualities. + The professors soon felt that whatever he said was worthy of + attention. I recollect that he took an active part in the Dialectic + Society, and recollect his moving the books and busying himself in + the room. Biddle was his competitor for the headship of the class, + and after he left there was practically no one to contest the honors + with him. + + "Halleck's was an entirely different mind from Stevens's,--less + comprehensive, less devoted to original research, to principles. + Halleck was strong in history, in precedents. + + "I recollect Stevens's answer when a witness before a court of + inquiry,--how he knew that a party had done so and so,--if he had + said so. 'No,' replied he, 'he did not say so, but what he said and + his manner combined convinced me of the fact; and the manner is a + great part of any conversation.' When he graduated, he stood not + only at the head of his class, but among the highest that ever + graduated from the academy." + +Professor A.E. Church (of mathematics) writes July 27, 1877:-- + + "My recollection of your father as a cadet at West Point is very + vivid. I remember him as an earnest, industrious student, strictly + attentive to every duty. He possessed mathematical talents of the + highest order, standing in this branch, as in every other, at the + head of his class, notwithstanding rival classmates of great + abilities. A distinguishing trait which he possessed in a remarkable + degree, and, from what I know of his after life, continued ever + prominent, was an unhesitating readiness to apply and carry on + strictly and systematically every principle he had learned, never + failing to come to the right result. + + "While others were pondering over the intricacies of a mathematical + proposition, often in vain seeking some shorter way or more curious + result, he seemed at once to grasp the most practicable rule, and + straight onward to pursue it to an end which admitted of no doubt. + + "Though admirably adapted for a military commander and great + engineer, had he selected the profession of the law he would have + been prominent among the most distinguished lawyers of the age. His + early death was a serious loss to the army and country, and with his + many friends was sincerely mourned by myself." + +The grasp and thoroughness of his mind, his power of generalization, of +seeking and mastering first principles, which Mr. Hazen remarked in the +boy, impressed the West Point professors, too, as the prominent mental +characteristic of the youth. + +Says General Zealous B. Tower:-- + + "I roomed with Cadet Stevens for four months in one of the small + rooms in the south barracks. Stephen D. Carpenter was the other + occupant of that limited living and bed room. Each cadet was + provided with a small mattress, to be spread upon the floor when + needed, and when unoccupied to be rolled up in its canvas, well + strapped, and put into a corner of the room. Later, iron bedsteads + were introduced, but the mattresses were never unrolled and spread + until the hour for retiring. A cadet inspector visited the rooms + half an hour after reveille; the Officer of the day also inspected + them, and the company officers also went the rounds. Tattoo at 9.30 + P.M. was the signal for retiring, and taps at ten P.M. for putting + out all lights, when one of the officers again inspected each + 'stoup,' or floor, of the barracks. + + "Stevens's duties as assistant professor of mathematics occupied an + hour and a half each day, taking that portion of time from his study + hours; but it did not interfere with his studies, for he possessed + quick intelligence, and great concentration of his mental powers. + This faculty was very pronounced, and would have given him + distinction in any profession that he might have undertaken, and the + more so that it was allied to industrious habits and an enthusiastic + nature. He never plodded over his lessons, but often finished them + in half the time allotted to their acquisition. Stevens was a + pleasant room-mate, being very genial, kind, and considerate to + others. He never failed in his friendships, or in anything that + appeared a duty to his fellows. He was popular among those of his + associates who valued sterling, manly qualities, and among the most + prominent members of his corps. He spoke rapidly when a matter of + interest engaged his attention, for he thought rapidly. Though, + rather short in stature, his large head and very expressive, + intelligent eyes made him noticeable and attractive in conversation, + engaging the marked attention of his auditors. His enthusiasm and + strong convictions gave an energy to his manner of discussing + favorite topics that lent the charm of eloquence to his speech." + + WEST POINT, March 11, 1836. + + DEAR FATHER,--Last week we commenced Calculus. This is considered + the most difficult branch of mathematics. Our text-book is a + compilation from the most distinguished French mathematicians by + Professor Davies. We have about ten pages per lesson, and will be + about five weeks going through it. We next study surveying, which + ends our course in mathematics. + + Since the examination I have attended the drawing academy every day, + the regular attendance being every other day. Were I two files + higher in this branch, it would put me head in general merit. I am + now drawing our Saviour, represented as a child. I have been at work + on it for about four weeks. It will probably take me eight weeks + more to finish it. It is very slow work, I assure you, but as our + standing depends entirely upon the excellence and not upon the + number of pieces, I consider the time is not lost, provided what I + do is done well. + + It seems there is a very great excitement in Congress respecting the + slavery question. It must afford pleasure to every friend of free + discussion to learn that the South did not succeed in the + resolutions censuring Mr. Adams. At the same time, I think he is + unnecessarily agitating this dangerous question, and that his zeal + will tend to awaken only feelings and desires which should never be + cherished. Is not the dissolution of the Union a subject of fearful + foreboding? Ought then the sages of our land like Mr. Adams at this + time to agitate a question which in the opinion of the South + infringes upon their rights, and which, inflexible as we know them + to be in their maintenance, will cause them to look upon a secession + from the Union as the only means of preserving them? The South are + sensible of the evils of slavery. They deplore the existence of this + curse, entailed upon them against their consent by the arbitrary + decrees of England, and I believe that (if left to themselves) they + will adopt some measures to rid themselves of it. + + Your son, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + +[Illustration: INFANT JESUS + _Crayon drawing at West Point_] + + WEST POINT, March 5, 1836. + DEAR SISTER,--I received your letter this morning informing me of + aunt Eliza's death. She was certainly the finest woman I ever knew, + and the remembrance of her engaging qualities will long be + cherished. Uncle William is very much to be pitied. + + Have you any school in view now for next summer? You also appear to + be very much interested in Latin. I detested Latin when I first + commenced to study it, but I soon brought myself to like it. So it + is with drawing. I take more pleasure in drawing than in anything + else. I like it full as well as reading novels. In my last you will + recollect that I wrote of the piece I was then drawing. I have now + got it most half done. I was all last week (two hours per day) + drawing one eye, a part of another one, and one curl of hair. You + can see by this that I draw very slowly, much slower than any one in + my class. The time spent in the drawing academy seems shorter than + any other part of the day, and I have not yet felt any impatience at + my slowness in drawing since I have commenced my last piece, a sure + sign that I like it very much. + + Your brother, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + Miss SUSAN B. STEVENS. + + DEAR SISTER ELIZABETH,--You spoke of Mr. Maynard thinking I ought to + be content with my present standing, and ought not to expect to + stand higher. Be that as it may, one thing _is_ certain, that I will + _never_ cease to try for number one till I have got it again, and + were I convinced that it was almost an impossibility, I would still + _try_. I like the reply of General Miller to his superior officer in + the last war, when, being directed to attack and carry a battery of + cannon on an almost inaccessible eminence, the silencing of which + was indispensable, made this answer only, 'I will try,' and with the + most determined courage carried it in an almost incredibly short + space of time. I don't like _backing out_; it is contemptible. I + shall, however, be contented with whatever standing is given me, and + since I have been here I have always endeavored to prepare myself + for any contingency. This is absolutely necessary. It is the only + way to guard against envy, jealousy, and all those mean and + degrading passions to which the human heart is prone. Harry Biddle + and myself are now the only members of our class who are contending + for head, yet I don't believe there are two men in the class on + better terms. He is one of the finest young men I ever knew; and + although he was very much disappointed last June, he never uttered a + word showing he harbored the least ill-will against me. When the + result of the June examination was known, he came and congratulated + me, but told me he meant to rise me. In January it appeared he had + redeemed his word, and so I went and congratulated him, and balanced + the account. This is the only way to get along, for if we allow + those passions I have mentioned to obtain the least ascendency over + us, it will render us disagreeable and unhappy. There are eleven of + us in four rooms, which are contiguous to each other, who are all + good friends, and we enjoy ourselves as much as any other eleven men + in the corps. + +At the end of the second academic year he again stood head of his class, +and had the pleasure of announcing his success to his father. He stood +seventeen on the conduct roll, having eleven demerits. + + WEST POINT, June 18, 1836. + + DEAR FATHER,--I received a letter from Oliver a few days since. He + says he is "going a-gunning" on his birthday, and wishes me to be at + home to keep him company. I wish this could be the case, but under + present circumstances I shall not come home until the last of July, + and my leave will last but four weeks only. I did not know this till + about a week ago, and I have deferred writing to be able to give you + my standing. The examination was closed yesterday. My standing is + first in mathematics, first in French, and fourth in drawing, which + puts me head in general merit. Mr. Biddle is second in M., third in + F., and first in D. I presume you will be satisfied with this. You + recollect that Mr. Biddle rose me in French last January, and I + suppose that rising him again this June will make it all right + again. I had very good luck indeed, and my recitation in mathematics + was much better than at any previous examination. We march into camp + on Tuesday. It is to be called Camp Poinsett, as a compliment to the + Secretary of War. + +In July he returned home, after an absence of two years, to spend the +brief leave of a month. He had foregone one the previous year, partly on +the score of economy, at his father's suggestion, and it was with a +heart full of joy and glad anticipations that he hastened to visit the +loved ones at home, and the dear and familiar scenes of his childhood. + +Isaac must have keenly enjoyed this visit. His sisters were proud of +him, and overjoyed at his return. He had surpassed the most sanguine +hopes of his friends, and on every hand met with a warm welcome. His +success at the academy, his cadet uniform, and his erect, soldierly +bearing invested him in the eyes of the community with the new-found +respect and importance accorded to rising and promising young manhood. +His cousin Henry, writing after his return to the Point, says: "If you +look as dignified as you did when you were here, I do not wonder that +you are beyond suspicion. I should like very much to see one hundred +cadets playing at football. Do you run as erect as you walk?" West Point +drill and discipline, however, had not abated his adventurous spirit, or +love of the sports natural to his age. Sailing on the Great Pond with a +number of companions, and the wind having died out, for pastime he +climbed to the top of the mast, which suddenly broke and let him fall +headlong into the lake. On another occasion he was poling a boat with +his little brother up the Cochichewick towards the "Hatch," as the point +where the stream flowed out of the Great Pond was called, when the oar +stuck fast in the tenacious mud of the bottom, and, grasping it too +firmly, Isaac lost his foothold, and was dragged over the stern into the +mingled mud and water, to the sad defilement of his speckless white +cadet trousers. Exasperated at this ridiculous accident, he swore +lustily, calling upon Oliver in no gentle tones to bring back the boat. + + + + + CHAPTER IV + + WEST POINT.--LAST TWO YEARS + + +Returning to the Point after this brief respite, the young cadet resumed +his studies with his accustomed vigor. He was appointed assistant +professor of mathematics, a position of additional labor as well as +honor, which he retained to the end of his course. Moreover, he took an +active part in the Dialectic Society, which as a "plebe" he looked +forward to joining. In a letter to Mr. Hazen he recounts his early +efforts in debate:-- + + "You are probably aware that we have a debating society here, of + which I have the honor to be a member. Last evening (we hold our + meetings on Saturday evenings) we had an animated debate on the + expediency of studying the _dead languages_. It was the only + tolerable one we have had this fall. Some pretty good speeches were + made. One was particularly fine. Mr. Jennings, the person to whom I + allude, in my opinion was made for an orator. He is undoubtedly a + man of a large mind, and expresses himself admirably. His delivery + is very good, and his diction is choice and effective. Declamation + is one of the regular exercises; and as my turn came round, I had + the pleasure of unburdening myself of a short piece, and of being + most woefully used up by the critical, who are regularly appointed + for such performance. This is not very encouraging, to be sure. I + must, however, acquit myself better next time. + + "You are probably aware of the great defects in our course of study. + It is not calculated generally to strengthen and improve the mind as + much as a four years' course of study should. Some of the faculties + are developed in a high degree, whilst others are almost entirely + neglected; its effect is--if the expression can be used--to cast the + mind in a rough, strong mould, without embellishing or polishing it. + Its effect is also (perhaps no more than any other regular course + of study) to confine our attention to particular pursuits, and make + us neglect all that general information which is essential to a man + of liberal education, and in fact absolutely indispensable for any + one who engages in the actual pursuits of life. Don't you believe it + is of greater advantage to a person to have a good idea of political + economy, or a knowledge of the elementary principles of composition, + than to be able to solve some abstruse problem in mathematics? + + "I almost wish I could content myself with standing about fifth in + my class. I could then spend three or four hours a day in reading + and getting valuable information, and could improve myself in + composition. I might also cultivate a taste for the higher branches + of literature, my taste for all which at present, except novels, is + about at the zero point. As it is, I am obliged to work hard to get + an hour a day to devote to reading; and as I consider history and + solid works of that nature most valuable, I have been able to read + but one novel within the last three months. I have been reading some + of the speeches in 'British Eloquence' of late; also in the + 'Eloquence of the United States.' Do you think the characters of + Pitt, Fox, and Burke, as described by the author in the former work, + are correct? My former ideas of Chatham were somewhat different. The + author makes him out a more selfish man than I supposed him to be. A + few days since I picked up a volume of Phillips's Speeches, and read + most of them. Is not his speech in the case of Blake v. Wilkins + admirable? What do you think of them generally? It seems to me there + is more of the pomp of words than real, effective oratory in them. + He has too much pathos in some of his speeches. A little of it, and + sometimes much of it, produces a very good effect; but where it is + nothing but a pathetic appeal to the feelings, the effect is + destroyed, at least with people of sense." + +This letter shows that the youth was beginning to think for himself, and +to weigh things according to his own ideas. The arduous course of study +he was pursuing did not wholly engross his attention. He soon became the +leading member of the Dialectic, active in getting up lectures and +other literary exercises. Nor was he simply a bookworm. "The eleven of +us, in contiguous rooms, who are all good friends, and enjoy ourselves +as much as any other eleven men in the class," derived some of their +enjoyment from breaking the rigid rules of the institution, and in +hairbreadth escapes from detection. They used to run over to Benny's +without leave. They would bring pies and other edibles into barracks +buttoned up under their coats, and, after the post was wrapped in +slumber, would indulge in these forbidden sweets. His companions +ofttimes complained that Stevens would learn his lessons in a minute, +and then come about, making a racket, and disturbing them in their +studies. He used to take long walks and excursions about the neighboring +country. + +Naturally active and fearless, he became a fine horseman, and always +appeared to best advantage when mounted, where his erect figure and +soldierly bearing gave him the effect of higher stature than when on +foot. + +In winter the cadets were in the habit of skating on the river. Isaac, +light, active, and fearless, and exceedingly adventurous, delighted to +skim full speed over the thinnest ice he could find, which bent and +crackled under his skates. His companions kept remonstrating with and +forewarning him of a catastrophe, which in his case never occurred. One +extremely cold day, however, one of his associates broke through the ice +and fell into the river. They rescued him with some difficulty, and bore +him dripping wet to the barracks in all haste, but the unlucky youth was +nearly frozen when they carried him into his room. His mates at once set +to work making a hot fire, and bringing blankets, etc. But Isaac now +took the lead, as the commanding spirit always does in a real emergency. +He caused them to put out the fire, throw open all the windows, and to +vigorously rub the insensible youth with snow brought from the outside +until his circulation was restored, and the frost taken out of his +benumbed extremities, when he suffered them to rebuild the fire and +renew the warm comforts, both solid and liquid. + +His uncle Moses, a distinguished teacher, settled in Nashville, Tenn., +visited West Point this fall; and his father writes, "Your uncle Moses +speaks of your acquirements in rather extravagant terms." + +During the winter his father's health was poor, and he suffered much +from his injured leg. Oliver alone remained at home. Hannah was in +Haverhill, attending school, and supporting herself by her needle; Sarah +was in Lowell, working in a factory; Elizabeth was at Belfast, Maine, +visiting an aunt, and attending school; Mary was at Methuen; and Susan +was attending school at the South Parish. The latter, a girl of warm +heart and lively sensibilities, had not been satisfied with the sober +Unitarianism of her family, and had become attached to the "Orthodox," +or ancient Puritan faith, a sincere and somewhat enthusiastic convert. +The letters of these motherless girls, thus scattered about, reveal a +touching picture of their earnest desire and efforts for study and +self-improvement, their tender affection for their father, and their +endeavor to treat their stepmother with respect and affection. It was to +their brother Isaac that they resorted for comfort and guidance. They +confided to his warm and sympathetic heart all their troubles, +aspirations, and plans, and constantly sought his advice. The noble old +man at the farm, too, had come to rely upon the manly character and +sound judgment of the youth of nineteen at West Point. He writes of the +difficulty of making both ends meet, of his earnest desire to give more +schooling to his three younger daughters, and of preserving intact for +his children the little property he had accumulated so laboriously. He +asks Isaac to write and advise Susan, who he thinks lacks stability, +and Hannah. He entreats his son to come home every summer vacation. + + WEST POINT, December 17, 1836. + + DEAR FATHER,--It was with much concern I heard of your lameness, and + I am very much afraid it will prove more serious than you seem to be + aware of. You ought not to think yourself obliged to work, when it + is of manifest injury to you. You are now getting to be along in + years, and you have done hard work enough. You ought now to think of + making yourself comfortable. I _do_ hope you will be careful about + exposing yourself, and will endeavor to enjoy the little property + which you have accumulated with so much toil. Your children, you may + be assured, had much rather that it should all be consumed in making + your declining years pleasant and happy, than receive a single cent + of it themselves. I think you will do wrong to feel the least + anxiety about leaving property to your children. You have evinced + the greatest affection for us, and the utmost disinterestedness in + consulting the welfare of your children, and it is our duty to make + every return in our power. Believe me, we will endeavor to exert our + utmost in order to secure the happiness of the remaining period of + your life, and we ask of you, as a favor, no longer to undergo the + toil and exposure to which you have hitherto been accustomed. + + I wish I could have been at home Thanksgiving time. Three successive + Thanksgivings have seen my absence from home, and it is very + probable that three more will pass away without allowing me the + opportunity of spending them at home. As it is, I hope I shall be + enabled to pass two or three weeks at home next summer, but it is + very uncertain. The superintendent has come to the conclusion no + longer to permit the members of the first class to be absent on + leave during the encampment, and it will be very difficult to obtain + a leave unless the application is _backed_ by very urgent reasons. + +At last Susan decided to go to Missouri, encouraged by the favorable +reports of relatives who had moved thither, and hoping to find a more +promising field as a teacher. In May, 1838, her father accompanied her +to Port Labadie, situated on the Missouri River, some miles above St. +Louis. Here she found kind friends, and met with tolerable success in +her chosen vocation. + +At the June examination of 1838 Isaac again stood at the head of his +class. On the conduct roll he was number twenty-three, with twenty +demerits. He spent part of the summer leave at home. Returning to the +Point, he made a pedestrian trip to Philadelphia with a classmate, in +the course of which they were thoroughly drenched in a rainstorm. + +The following letter exhibits his patriotic indignation at the British +aggressions on the Maine frontier, a precursor of the spirit with which +he resisted and defeated similar aggressions on the extreme northwest in +after years:-- + + WEST POINT, August 21, 1838. + + DEAR FATHER,--You must have seen from the papers that the executive + of the State of Maine is making preparations to carry into effect + the resolutions of its legislature, and that the commissioners will + be supported in the running of the boundary line by the whole + military force of the State. Kent has pursued a course alike + honorable to himself and the State which he represents. If the + national government shows itself so regardless of the honor and + interests of a State as has been evinced by the cold indifference + with which negotiations for the last fifty years have been carried + on, it becomes the solemn duty of the sovereignty thus trampled upon + to rise and maintain its own rights. This fawning subserviency to + expediency in a matter of principle I despise. So does every + honorable man; better die in a just cause than live by an + abandonment of it. I have sufficient confidence in the virtue and + patriotism of the people of Maine to believe that they will + triumphantly sustain their executive in his energetic and honorable + measures. Should there be actual resistance and the difficulty + resolve itself into an open conflict, the government _dare_ not + withhold its prompt assistance. The whole Senate, without a single + dissentient voice, have borne witness to the fallacy and gross + injustice of the claim made by the British crown upon the lands in + question. Was this meant to vanish into thin air? The 4th regiment + of artillery are now in New York city. Why not send them to the + east? They are certainly wanted on the boundary. + +He had frequently remonstrated with his father for treating Oliver with +too exacting strictness, and he now urged him to send the boy to college +as soon as he became old enough. In reply the father declares:-- + + "As to Oliver's going to college, it is out of the question. A great + many boys are ruined by going to college that would have made useful + men if they had been put to some trade, or compelled to be + industrious. By the most rigid economy I can adopt, the income of + the farm will not pay my expenses. I am willing to rise early, work + late, live on simple fare, but dunning letters I detest; rather live + on two meals a day. I would advise every young man, who means to be + punctual, and honest, to keep out of debt." + +Oliver, however, in due time entered Bowdoin College, Maine, with the +consent and aid of his father; graduated well, and became a successful +lawyer in Boston, where he has held the position of district attorney +for nearly thirty years. + +He urges Oliver to cultivate a taste for solid reading, and assures him +that a taste for any subject can be acquired when the determination is +fixed upon it. + + "Let me advise you to get Plutarch's Lives, and read them. Plutarch, + you know, is a celebrated Roman author. His Lives of the + distinguished men of Greece and Rome has justly immortalized his + name, and it will live as long as the men whose actions he has + related are admired. The style is simple and unaffected. He has + seized upon the principal events in the life of each; relates to us + many, anecdotes of their efforts, of their disappointments and + failures; then he describes in bold and feeling language that + untiring industry, that patient and ceaseless thought, which + overcame every difficulty. Read the lives of Cicero and + Demosthenes, Nicias and Phocion. When you next write, tell me what + you think of them. Another work I want you to read; it is Sparks's + 'American Biography.' We should certainly be intimately acquainted + with the deeds and characters of our own great men. Have you ever + read any volumes of the 'Spectator'? There are, I think, ten + volumes of them, consisting of essays of four or five pages each + upon all subjects. The style is flowing and graceful, exceedingly + interesting; a vein of wit and sprightliness pervades them all. + + "For myself, things have gone smoothly on since I was at home. My + daily duties are all sources of pleasure. This renders me satisfied + with myself and with all around me. I am never afflicted with low + spirits, or with feelings of discontent,--all this for the simple + reason that all my time is interestingly employed. + + "Have you finished harvesting? Did you gather many walnuts? We have + a large number of chestnut-trees at West Point. I have gathered + quite an abundance of them." + + TO HIS FATHER. + + November 17. + + DEAR FATHER,--I have just come from the meeting of our society. Our + proceedings are quite good; and there is an evident improvement + every evening. It is indeed much better to employ Saturday evening + in listening to, and participating in, a debate on some interesting + subject than staying in one's room reading novels, or perhaps doing + nothing. We had quite an animated discussion the other evening on + the justice of lynch law. We got very warm; indeed, the debate came + very near merging into the discussion of abolition. This, you are + aware, is a very tender subject, and, for our society, a very + improper one. For my own part I got very much excited, and my free + avowal of abolition principles did not tend to allay the feeling + which existed among the members. + + You can well suppose that I am looking forward to graduating with + much interest. My entering this institution I consider my first + important step in life. I have succeeded better than I have ever had + any right to anticipate. I have endeavored to make it my rule never + to relinquish any undertaking, but always to _try_ till success + crowned my efforts. I have thus got along pretty well. I have not + the slightest doubt that I shall succeed well enough as long as my + efforts are carried on in a proper spirit, which is never to rely + too confidently on success, and to bear every disappointment with a + good grace. + + I feel much anxiety to see Oliver improve. These long winter + evenings should not be trifled away. Oliver might study, read to the + family, or otherwise improve his time, till half past nine o'clock. + If he should be disposed to read any longer, let him have a good + warm fire, and his reading will not be thrown away. You are, I know, + a great admirer of Franklin. He used to study until twelve at night + when obliged to work hard all day. How could Oliver and the girls, + if any are at home, pass the time better than reading or studying + till perhaps ten in the evening? + + TO HANNAH. + + January 27, 1839. + + DEAR SISTER,--It may be said that Scott and Addison are elegant + writers. Johnson, that intellectual giant, said that whoever wished + to become a perfect writer must give up his days and nights to + Addison. The style of Addison is peculiarly easy and harmonious, the + very music of composition; and although not so deep and original a + thinker as many whose styles are less attractive, his works will + always be admired for their sound views on moral and religious + subjects. Scott, you know, has been called the _magician_, and + excelled all his contemporaries in the ease, rapidity, and finish of + his performances. The last volume of his "Waverley" was written in + one week, and his novels were ushered into the reading community + with so rapid a succession as astonished every one. Some think that + Scott excelled as a poet, and, wonderful as he was as a writer of + romance, he was still more successful in verse. Some of his poetry + and a few of his novels are well worth reading. His "Lady of the + Lake" and "Ivanhoe" are much admired. The "Tales of my Landlord" and + "Guy Mannering" also are very fine. There is a little volume of + poetry, called "The Book of Pleasures," which I intend to read, the + first opportunity. It contains The Pleasures of Memory, of Hope, and + of the Imagination, all three beautiful poems. You had better read + them, if they are to be obtained. + + Our examinations are finished, and we are again under full sail for + the next, and, for myself, last examination. The result of the + present is, head in three branches and second in the fourth. The + last five months I spend at West Point should be employed to better + advantage than any other five months before. I have marked out for + myself a pretty severe course of study, by which I shall endeavor to + abide. When I graduate, it will be a satisfaction to look back upon + my four years' course, and feel a consciousness that I have improved + my opportunities. After graduating, where I shall be stationed is + uncertain. But I shall endeavor to get ordered to Boston under + Colonel Thayer. There are extensive fortifications now erecting in + Boston harbor on George's Island. It would be a capital chance to be + employed upon them, particularly when the superintendent of the + works is so distinguished a man as Colonel Thayer. There are + reasons, which you can well imagine, why I wish to be near home. + +He must have been an omnivorous and rapid reader to have mastered +Franklin, Plutarch, Addison, Scott, Rollin's Ancient History, besides +poetry, speeches, and novels; one wonders where he could have found the +time, but he was ever working at high pressure. In addition to the hard +work necessary to retain the headship of the class, and to discharge the +duties of assistant professor, he took the most active and leading part +in the Dialectic, and delivered the valedictory address at the +graduation of the class. He also founded "The Talisman," a journal for +the practice and improvement of the cadets in composition. In the +introductory address, which he wrote as editor, he presents his views of +the need for, and objects of, the paper in glowing language, +concluding:-- + + "We have thus announced our intention of establishing a paper. Its + character will be readily understood from the preceding exposition + of our views. We shall hoist the white flag, emblematic of our + motives and intentions. On it shall be inscribed in golden letters + _The Talisman_. This flag will we defend with our life's blood; and + when expiring nature is about to give up her last hold upon us, we + will wave it aloft in triumph and die beneath its shadow." + +In a letter to his uncle William he gives an amusing account of +anonymously criticising his own effusions:-- + + "Several of us have amused ourselves in writing a paper, which we + have called 'The Talisman,' and having it read at the meetings of + the Dialectic. Our motto is, The Human Intellect the Universal + Talisman. The best of the joke is, no one can divine who are + concerned in it. Indeed, once I wrote a most famous blowing up of + one of my own performances, and was extremely amused to have several + of my friends console me; in fact, one told me he would not give a + fig for these criticisms, to which I assented, asking him if he had + any idea who were the editors of the paper, to which he replied in + the negative. When we graduate next June, we wish to have an address + delivered before the society by some able man. Do you think we could + get Governor Everett?" + +As already stated, Cadet Stevens was put forward by his classmates to +deliver this address himself. + +He contributed to "The Talisman" a series of articles, written in a +simple, direct, and forcible style, and marked by an earnest tone and +elevated sentiments, among which were "Agency of Steam in Mechanical +Operations;" "In Jury Trials, ought the Twelve Jurors to be required to +be Unanimous?" "Has Man a Conscience?" "The Importance of a Good Style +of Writing to an Officer of the Army;" "History;" "The Proper Study of +Mankind is Man." + +His most intimate friends at the Point were Henry L. Smith, Jeremy F. +Gilmer, Zealous B. Tower, Henry W. Halleck, Stephen D. Carpenter, Bryant +P. Tilden, William B. Greene, Franklin D. Callender, John D. Bacon, Paul +O. Hebert. Among these high-spirited and intellectual young men he was +an acknowledged leader; and even after leaving the academy, they were +continually calling on him for advice in their own affairs, and for aid +in efforts to benefit the service, to secure increased rank and pay, +etc. + +Thus the last term sped rapidly away. At the examination he was first, +as usual. He stood thirty on the conduct roll, having sixteen demerits. +It will be observed that in "conduct" during the course he stood but +little above the average. Evidently, with his spirited and vigorous +nature, he did not mind infringing the rules at times. When the Academic +Board reviewed the standing of the members of the class to award to each +his proper grade, it was found that Cadet Stevens stood at the head, not +only generally, but in every one of the studies. Moreover, his standing, +as compared with all who had ever graduated from the institution, was +among the first. This remarkable achievement, together with his strong +personality, deeply impressed the officers of the academy. They were +proud of their pupil, they felt that he reflected honor upon the +institution, and they vied with each other in encomiums and attentions +which they deemed his due. + +He invited his father and stepmother to attend the graduation exercises, +and they came. When they arrived they were astonished to see the honors +heaped upon their son, and the high estimation in which he was held. +They, too, were overwhelmed with attentions on his account. Prominent +seats were found for them, and the professors came up to pay their +respects to the parents of the first graduate, and to congratulate them +upon his remarkable talents and promise. + + + + + CHAPTER V + + NEWPORT + + +Crowned with these well-earned honors, and promoted to be second +lieutenant of engineers, July 1, 1839, he accompanied his parents home, +expecting to enjoy a long and delightful vacation; but his anticipations +were speedily cut short by orders to proceed to Newport, R.I., to take +part in the building of Fort Adams, so that he was permitted to spend +only the Fourth of July in Andover. + +Phrenology was in vogue then, and the young man, on his way through +Boston, had his head examined by a professor of the new science, who, +much to his amusement, pronounced him a poet. He reached his station +early in July, and took quarters with Miss Castoff, who kept a +boarding-house on the corner of Spring and Ann streets. Lieutenant James +L. Mason, also of the engineer corps, boarded at the same place. The two +young men became warm friends and companions. Daily they rode over to +the fort together in the morning, and returned in the afternoon. +Lieutenant P.G. T. Beauregard, afterwards the well-known Confederate +general, was also on duty there as an engineer officer, and remained +several months after Stevens's arrival. Fort Adams was garrisoned by a +detachment of the 2d artillery, officered by Lieutenants Lewis G. +Arnold, Arthur B. Lansing, and Henry J. Hunt. + +Fort Adams, commenced twenty years previously, and now nearly completed +under the able superintendence of General Joseph G. Totten, was the +largest defensive work in the country, Fortress Monroe only excepted, +and, as General Cullum declares in his biographical sketch of General +Totten, "the first in its combination of the principles and details of +the art of fortification." It must have afforded a most gratifying field +for the energies of the ardent and accomplished young officer, fresh +from the military academy, and eager to test his acquirements and +abilities in real work. The redoubt, the inner and separate stronghold +in rear of the main work, was mostly built under his superintendence, +1839-42. Entering upon this duty with his accustomed zeal, his sound +judgment in laying out the work for the workmen, and energy and +diligence in pushing it, soon attracted attention. He took control with +the self-reliance and habit of command of a natural leader. He was +strict and exacting with the employees, but at the same time just and +considerate, and took a real interest in them. He soon won their respect +and goodwill. Even the man who groomed his horse, John A.C. Stacy, long +years afterwards, when he had himself become a wealthy contractor, spoke +of Lieutenant Stevens with the greatest admiration. His unconscious +success in this direction nearly led to a breach with Mason. The latter +became cold and distant in manner, and openly avoided him. Stevens +demanded an explanation, whereupon Mason burst forth indignantly with +the charge, "You are destroying all my influence with the men on the +work. When you appear, they hang upon every word you utter, and cannot +do enough for you, while they scarcely notice me, although I am the +senior, and have been longer on the work." But Mason was soon satisfied +by his friend's remonstrances, and his own good sense, that Stevens was +not to blame for that result. Mason was a man of remarkable talents, +brilliant in conversation, and fascinating in social intercourse. + +Newport at this time contained many old families, among which the +traditions of colonial grandeur, when the port was the largest and most +flourishing city in the colonies, mingled with the fresher recollections +of the Revolution, the British occupation, the battle of Rhode Island, +the romantic capture of General Prescott, the English commander, the +brilliant though brief sojourn of the French allies under Rochambeau, +and the visit of Washington. The town was celebrated for beautiful and +charming girls. It was the resort in summer of the cultivated, wealthy, +and fashionable from other parts of the country, especially from the +South. The Hazards, Lymans, Randolphs, Vernons, Lawtons, Hunters, Kings, +Turners, Gardiners, Fowlers, Gibbs, Tottens, Perrys, and others, all +more or less related, afforded a cultivated and high-toned, yet simple +and cordial society, free from the ostentation of wealth and the absurd +pride of caste. The army and naval officers stationed there, and the +families of Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, the hero of Lake Erie, of +General Totten, and of others who had served their country, added a +patriotic and military element. Into this charming society the young +officer entered with keen enjoyment, and his modest demeanor and +sensible conversation, not less than his reputation for ability and +scholarship, soon made him welcome. + +One of these Newport belles thus described him:-- + + "The first time I saw Mr. Stevens was in church. He sat in the pew + behind ours. He was very young, of small, alight figure, had a very + large head, with fine carriage,--a noble head, thick, bushy, black + hair, and dark complexion. He was considered very homely, but he had + a large, dark hazel eye, which looked one through and through, and + compelled one's attention." + +Notwithstanding that "he was considered very homely," young Stevens took +an active part in the social life and festivities of the town, calling +upon the old families, escorting with other young men bevies of young +ladies on delightful long walks to the beach, along the cliffs, the Blue +Rocks, Tammany Hill, and other resorts, and attending the numerous +parties. + +It was at one of these rather informal, but enjoyable gatherings that he +first met the young girl who was soon to become his wife. Mason had +warned him to "beware of Margaret Hazard," as the two young men were +setting out to attend a tea party at the Vernons' hospitable mansion, +two miles out of town. The young lady was a daughter of Benjamin Hazard, +for years recognized as the ablest lawyer and statesman in the State, +who had represented the town in the state legislature for thirty-one +years without a break, having been elected sixty-two times in +succession. Although very young, she possessed many attractions of +person and character, had many admirers, and was one of the acknowledged +belles. Notwithstanding the friendly or jocose warning, Mr. Stevens was +duly presented to Miss Hazard, and had the pleasure of escorting her +home, and improved the opportunity by inviting her to ride on horseback +the following afternoon. Miss Margaret lacked a suitable habit, it +seems; but an old cloak skillfully adapted served for the long sweeping +skirt then in vogue, a cousin furnished his new beaver for a riding-hat, +and another admirer contributed a handsome silver-mounted riding-whip, +so that when the cavalier presented himself on his gray charger with a +groom leading the "Indian Queen," the young lady was ready. The "Indian +Queen" was the name of a noted saddle-horse from the stable of Nicholas +Hassard, who for many years kept the livery stable on Spring, or Back +Street, corner of Touro. When asked if the "Indian Queen" was a safe +horse for the young lady, Mr. Hassard replied, "Miss Margaret Hazard can +ride any horse in my stable." + +This ride led to others, and it was not long before the two rode over +the beaches together nearly every pleasant afternoon. Mr. Stevens would +come with the horses about five o'clock, and the usual ride was over the +three beaches and around by the green End road; and a more romantic, +beautiful, and pleasant course it would be hard to find. + +A fearless horseman, he was fond of horses and of riding. He owned and +delighted to ride a fiery gray, which ofttimes taxed all his strength, +skill, and daring to master, and which occasionally ran away despite all +efforts. Once the steed, with the bit in his teeth, dashed headlong for +the stable. "Stevens is done for!" exclaimed Mason; "the stable door is +too low to ride under, and his brains will be knocked out." But the +rider threw himself along the side and neck of the furious animal just +in time to avoid this danger. + +Mason's warning was indeed in vain. Writes his intimate friend, H.L. +Smith, as early as April:-- + + "Not in love, Stevens; why, your description fired me. By heavens! + it is a glorious thing to see a girl with a large soul. Would there + were more such. 'Dark blue eyes;' 'Rides fearlessly;' 'Loves + Channing, Carlyle, Milton;' 'A sweet smile,' etc." + +He became a frequent caller upon, and intimate in the family of, +Benjamin Hazard. The latter was slowly sinking under the lingering +disease, consumption, which carried him off in 1841. The gifted and +sympathetic young man would have long talks and discussions with the +intellectual, learned, and experienced senior, and would read to him +from his favorite authors, Swift and Shakespeare. "I think our young +lieutenant is very handsome," remarked Mr. Hazard, doubtless alluding to +his fine head and sound, bright mind, and perhaps quietly rebuking the +disparaging term "homely." It was not long before he became an +acknowledged suitor for the hand of Miss Margaret, and they were +betrothed in the summer of 1840. + +The mansion occupied by this family, situated on Broad Street, on the +southern corner of Stone Street, and near the state house, is one of the +oldest in Newport, the timbers of which, according to tradition, were +cut and hewn in the woods between the harbor and the beach. By a curious +coincidence it has descended in the female line for three generations. +Before and during the Revolution it was the home of John G. Wanton, a +wealthy colonial merchant and the son of the colonial governor, Gideon +Wanton. + +It was a favorite resort of the brilliant French officers who landed in +Newport to aid the struggling patriots, one of whom cut with a diamond +upon a small, old-fashioned window-pane in the great parlor, "Charming +Polly Wanton, Oct. 17, 1780." But an American officer, Colonel Daniel +Lyman, afterwards chief justice of Rhode Island and president of the +Society of the Cincinnati in Rhode Island, married "Charming Polly" away +from her French admirers. + +Mary Wanton was an only daughter, and inherited the old mansion, where +she reared a family of thirteen children, and dispensed the gracious +hospitality to which she was accustomed. + +One of her daughters, Harriet Lyman, married Benjamin Hazard, and upon +the removal of Colonel Lyman and his family to Providence, succeeded to +the old Newport homestead, which thus for generations was the scene of +family happiness, worth, refinement, and hospitality. It is now owned +and occupied by two of Benjamin Hazard's daughters, Misses Emily Lyman +and Mary Wanton Hazard, who maintain the traditions of the old mansion +with charming grace. + +Now time speeds away rapidly and pleasantly with the young officer. He +has long talks and discussions with Mason, noted for his brilliant mind +and conversation. His official duties are congenial. He heartily enjoys +the social pleasures in which he takes part, and moreover he lays out a +stiff course of study for the winter. He writes uncle William, October +31, 1839:-- + + "My brother officer, Lieutenant Mason, is quite familiar with + politics. He is a Nullifier. I am a loco-foco Abolitionist. Though + we agree on many points, yet we have at times quite warm though very + friendly debates upon these points upon which we differ. I shall be + glad to spend most of the winter in study, and I think of giving + about half my time to my profession and its kindred branches of + physics and mathematics, and of the remaining portion a moiety to + politics and the political history of our country (which will + necessitate the careful reading and study of the Federalist and + Madison papers, and other documents illustrative of the peculiar + glories of our institutions), and the remainder to general reading." + + + TO HANNAH. + + My situation at Newport continues to please me as much as ever. We + are still pretty busy throughout the day, but are able to secure + considerable time for reading and study. + + I have been reading Byron's Poems of late. Although his verse is far + inferior (in my opinion) to Shakespeare and Milton, still it has + many and peculiar merits. Many of his productions are overflowing + with lofty and correct ideas. No sycophantic awe, or respect for + place and title, restrains his caustic and withering pen. He soars + upon his own pinions, and looks down upon them all. + +[Illustration: OLD WANTON MANSION IN NEWPORT] + +Thus his time was well occupied, yet he was also an indefatigable +correspondent, writing frequently to his West Point classmates and +friends, now beginning to scatter, and to his father, sisters, brother, +and cousins, but especially to his sisters, whose welfare and happiness +he had so much at heart. He is constantly sending them books and +papers, and advising them in regard to their studies and plans. Susan +was still in Missouri, doing well as a teacher. During the fall Hannah +was teaching school, or in Boston earning her livelihood in a store. +Elizabeth and Sarah were at school, and only Mary and Oliver remained at +home. The father, working too hard, had serious trouble with his injured +leg, and was unwell. But it was a joyous reunion when the elder brother +came home at Thanksgiving, and the scattered family were all assembled, +except Susan, in the great roomy kitchen in the old farmhouse, around +the well-filled board, loaded with the roast turkey and cranberry sauce, +snowy biscuits, mince, pumpkin, and apple pies, cake, preserves, and all +the good things of that generous and kindly season. + +Returning to Newport, Lieutenant Stevens made one of a class for the +study of German, although one may suspect that the language was not the +only attraction. Charles T. Brooks, the gifted poet, preacher, and +writer, and who has since translated so many poems and works from the +German, was then settled over the Unitarian Church in Newport, and a few +years previously had married Harriet Lyman Hazard, an elder sister of +Margaret. An accomplished and enthusiastic German scholar, Mr. Brooks +organized the class, and acted as their instructor. Mrs. Brooks, Mrs. +Shroder, Miss Margaret L. Hazard, Miss Julia Randolph, Stevens, and +Mason met regularly once a week at Mr. Brooks's house on Barney Street. +An incident is related showing the facility with which Mr. Stevens +acquired any subject which he undertook. Mr. Brooks one day asked him a +difficult question in grammar, which he answered promptly. Another +question was put with the same result. The teacher then plied him with +question upon question, all of which he answered without hesitation. +"Why," exclaimed Mr. Brooks, "you seem to know the whole grammar." "Oh, +yes," replied Stevens, "I've run it over." + +A long and affectionate letter from Susan informed him of her marriage +to David H. Bishop, a man of fine character, and engaged in the +profession of an educator, on December 26, 1839. Mr. Stevens at once +wrote to his new relative welcoming him in his hearty and warm-hearted +manner, and a friendly correspondence ensued between them, which +developed into a long and well-maintained political discussion, for Mr. +Bishop was a Whig, while Stevens was an uncompromising Democrat, of +Free-soil convictions,--"loco-foco Abolitionist," as he defines himself. + +In April the fostering and indulgent grandmother, the widow of the +Revolutionary soldier, Jonathan, died at an advanced age, attended +during her last illness by Sarah. Mary, early in the year, visited aunt +McFarland in Belfast, Maine. Elizabeth was in Lowell, and later also +went to aunt McFarland, and only Sarah and Oliver remained at home this +year. + +His father's letters reveal how much he was coming to lean upon the +self-reliant young man, and to feel the need of his support and +affection. "I was glad to hear you say in your last letter that in +matters relating to yourself you should be guided by your own judgment," +he writes. In every letter he urges him to come home, if only for a +short visit. + + DEAR SON,--In your letter to Oliver you mention not coming home + until Thanksgiving. I hope it will be convenient for you to come + home and spend a few days in the summer. Your visit in March was + very short, but short as it was, it was better than none. I learn + from you that you are far from being satisfied with your present + attainments. Why should young men talk of having finished their + education when in fact they have only commenced it, considering how + much more they might learn if they would only press forward! May all + you learn be sound and durable; one rotten piece of timber may wreck + a ship. Do not study too hard. My days of anticipating worldly + happiness are over (not so fast), I do anticipate seeing my children + useful and happy. + + Your father, + ISAAC STEVENS. + +Lieutenant Stevens was promoted first lieutenant, corps of engineers, +July 1, 1840. + +His active and thoroughgoing mind, looking beyond the duties assigned +him, saw the necessity of other works to complete the defenses at +Newport. He wrote urgent letters to the Engineer Department in +Washington, representing the need of a thorough survey of the harbor and +the surrounding ground, and especially of the fortifying of Rose Island, +which, situated in mid-channel between Rhode Island and Conanicut, and +three miles north of, or inside Fort Adams, would supplement and support +that work, and render the main entrance of Narragansett Bay impregnable +to a hostile fleet. He was ambitious to plan and carry out the +fortification of this point, but his recommendations were disregarded, +and he was informed that his views, though sound, were premature. Of +late years the importance of fortifying Rose Island has been recognized, +and the government has erected a powerful battery there. + +During the spring and summer his long-cherished idea of becoming a +lawyer took more definite shape in his mind, as will be seen from the +following letter to his uncle William, August 5, 1840:-- + + MY DEAR UNCLE,--You recollect that when last in Andover I was + revolving in my mind the expediency of studying law, with a view of + making it my permanent profession. Entering the West Point Academy + with no idea of remaining in the army, my present occupation cannot + be regarded as one that I have voluntarily and after mature + reflection selected, but as one which circumstances and good luck + have forced upon me. Therefore, in balancing the advantages and + disadvantages of the army and the law in order to a decision of the + question, Which shall I select as my occupation? I think I have + nothing to do with certain objections that many would advance, that + it would be changing my business,--it would betray a want of + fixedness of purpose,--it would be an act of inconsistency. To be + sure, some of the studies at West Point throw no light upon the law, + but most of them contribute, and contribute in an eminent degree, to + induce the habits and call out the faculties essential to the able + lawyer. Something more is wanted,--as a knowledge of the classics, + of ethics, of history. Three years' rigorous, systematic devotion of + my leisure moments to these pursuits would more than place me on a + level with the graduates of our colleges; by economy enough of my + pay could be laid up to defray my expenses, should I then resign and + go through a three years' study of the law. As the thing, therefore, + can be accomplished, as the law for many reasons would suit me + better than the army, as I have no false notions of delicacy on the + ground of consistency, etc., I have at length concluded to give up + the army for the law. As soon as I decided, I began to act. On that + very day, about three weeks since, I commenced Latin and a course of + reading in History. Greek I shall commence next November. As I do + not wish justly to render myself liable to the charge of hastiness + or obstinacy, I have determined to consult my friends. If they can + adduce reasons against my course, I should be very much obliged if + they would let me know them. The thought that one's course is + approved by his friends is consolatory,--it serves to strengthen his + confidence in his own judgment. It removes many cross currents that + would impede his course. _You_ it was that first suggested my + application to enter the military academy. Though the military + academy was not intended to make lawyers, yet in my case I hope it + may be an example that "the longest way round is the shortest way + home." I have been very fortunate in making the acquaintance of Mr. + Benjamin Hazard, whom (by report) you must know. He has the + reputation of being the first lawyer in the State, and is + unquestionably _au fait_ with his profession. He has been so kind as + to give me a great deal of information both with regard to law and + lawyers in this country, and the best method of studying law. Mr. + Hazard lent me some time since Warner's Law Studies. I read it + through twice very carefully, but much of what he said I thought + totally inapplicable to the profession in this country, much that + was contradictory, and some opinions I was confident were wrong. I + wish you would write me soon and give me your opinion of my course, + which is to remain in the army till the 1st of August, 1843, then to + resign and enter some office in Boston or Newport for three years. + From all I can learn, I think that Jeremiah Mason, of Boston, would + be the man for me. Whether he takes students I know not. Webster, + Mr. Hazard tells me, contends that Mason is the first lawyer in the + country,--superior to himself. Remember me to your own family, and + my friends generally. + + Your nephew, + I.I. STEVENS. + +He also wrote on this subject to his father, Mr. Hazen, and H.L. Smith. +All whom he consulted discouraged the project except his classmate, +Smith. Mr. Hazen judiciously advises:-- + + "It seems to me to be premature to determine quite so much at this + time. It occurs to me that you might enter upon a course of legal + reading, which would be useful to you in any station, uniting it + with attention to military duties, which would consist with + promotion in the army, and leave a little to the future to determine + between the professions." + +Although his increasing military duties, with his marriage and the +Mexican war, compelled him to defer carrying out this plan, it was never +definitely given up. The career open to him in the army did not satisfy +his ambition, and at last in 1852 he resigned, seeking a wider field. +Meantime he was keeping up his correspondence with his classmates and +friends. Halleck writes:-- + + UNITED STATES MILITARY ACADEMY, + WEST POINT, February 9, 1840. + + DEAR STEVENS,--It is now Sunday morning, and I know not that I can + better employ the time that will elapse before old Jasper commences + his oppression, than by writing an answer to your very kind letter + of last Sabbath. I am happy to renew with you our old friendly + intercourse. We have passed together four long years in mutual + goodwill and then parted, I believe, as warm friends, and why should + we now float away from each other towards the great ocean of + eternity without ever exchanging a friendly hail? My old associates + are still dear to me, and my lone heart sometimes softens when I + think of the past spent in their society. Indeed, I have here become + so disgusted with humbugs, toadeaters, and punsters, that my heart + gladdens at the receipt of a letter from an old friend whom I know + to be a reality and no sham. + + We have been co-workers in at least one thing, the Dialectic, and I + believe that to us as much or more than to any others, the society + owes its present prosperity. + + Sincerely yours, + H.W. HALLECK. + +Tilden, having become involved in a controversy with the authorities at +the Point, comes to Newport to consult with Stevens, who takes up his +case, advises him what to do, and writes Halleck, Smith, and others in +his behalf. "My visit to Newport," writes Tilden, "was of essential +service to me, and has served to strengthen the good resolutions +suggested by yourself and example." + +H.L. Smith, too, feeling aggrieved at the action of a court-martial +reflecting upon his evidence as a witness, has recourse to his friend +Stevens, who responds in such manner as to call forth Smith's grateful +and somewhat enthusiastic thanks:-- + + "I refer in part to your reply to Colonel Totten at table. Be + assured I _did_ anticipate your reply to my request. But, Stevens, + there are not many who would have taken the part of a friend as you + did with Colonel Totten. I shall never forget it as an act of + friendship, never cease to admire it as an act of generous + independence." + +Oliver visits him in September, and in his next letter speaks of "our +fine rides on horseback." Elizabeth has decided to go to Nashville, +Tenn., to visit her uncle Moses, principal of an academy there, in hopes +of finding employment as a teacher; and the father calls upon his son +in Newport for pecuniary assistance, and informs him that Hannah has +come home seriously ill. + +The next letter from his father contained the sad intelligence that +Hannah was sinking fast, and urged him to come home immediately. He +spent the last few days of life with the dying girl, doing all in his +power to comfort her. She died in November, 1840. + +On his journey back to Newport, Mr. Stevens stopped in Boston to hear a +lecture by John Quincy Adams, an account of which he gives his father:-- + + "His subject was the four stages of man in his progress from the + savage to the civilized state,--first, as a hunter; second, as a + shepherd; third, as a tiller of the soil; fourth, as a member of a + community in which all trades, occupations, arts, and professions + were confined to their appropriate spheres, each receiving the + protection and encouragement of all. His delivery was very + energetic, though uncouth. His fancy was exuberant, and his + speculations were not entirely, it seemed to me, supported by the + truth of history. + + "I wrote to Susan, as you desired, and gave her a detailed account + of Hannah's illness, with such other matters as I thought would be + interesting. Since I have been back to Newport, I have been reading + Blackstone pretty diligently. Thus far, I am much pleased with him." + +"It was a sad Thanksgiving at the homestead this year," Oliver writes, +"so different from the year before, when all were at home except Susan, +and death had not yet broken the family circle." Now all the children, +except Sarah and Oliver, were scattered far and wide,--Susan at Union, +Mo., Elizabeth at Nashville, Tenn., Mary in Belfast, Maine, and Isaac in +Newport. The father was again disabled with his leg, and unable to +attend the Thanksgiving sermon. Oliver concludes his pathetic letter +with a wish to go to West Point. + + NEWPORT, December 15, 1840. + + DEAR BROTHER OLIVER,--I have been very busily engaged since your + letter came to hand in preparing an address to be delivered before + the Newport Lyceum. As it was the introductory one, I felt very + desirous that it should be no discredit to myself, and that all + proper expectations should be fully realized. This is my apology for + not immediately answering your letter. As the address has been + delivered, I will now write you briefly respecting the + subject-matter of the latter part of your communication.... + + There is nothing new here. I am passing my time very pleasantly. We + have a debating club in successful operation, consisting of about + sixty members,--clergymen, lawyers, physicians, tradesmen, etc., + etc. We have a talk this evening on the French Revolution. I don't + know whether I shall say anything or not. Write as soon as you can + find it convenient. Remember me to father, mother, and Sarah, and + friends in general. I hope father will take every care of his + health. Is it vacation with John Loring now? One of his classmates, + young Dunn, is at home in Newport. + + Your brother, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + Mr. O. STEVENS. + + NEWPORT, R.I., January 17, 1840. + + MY DEAR FATHER,--As soon as I get to Washington I shall put Oliver's + application on file in the Department of War, and will obtain an + interview with Mr. Cushing to secure his interposition, of which I + think we may entertain some expectation, as no one has yet applied + for the vacancy in his district. One of my classmates, Lieutenant + Halleck, who is on duty at Washington, was kind enough to ascertain + and inform me of all cadets and applicants from Massachusetts, with + their districts, and in his list I perceive the 3d District is put + down vacant without any applications. I have never seen our + representative, for which reason some might deem it advisable to + procure a letter of introduction; but after some consideration I + have concluded to take none, but to introduce myself. It is better, + if successful, than the other mode; to be sure, the risk is + greater,--I will run it, however. If I make a good impression on + Mr. Cushing under the circumstances of a vacancy and no application, + it may go far towards getting his assistance. I will try it at all + events. + +[Illustration: ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS + _From Miniature by Staigg, 1841_] + + I shall leave on Wednesday and be absent three weeks. The Armisted + case comes up before the Supreme Court next Friday, and will + probably be in progress the ensuing week; this will enable me to + hear Mr. John Quincy Adams, of which I am very desirous. Mr. Clay's + resolution respecting the repeal of the Sub-Treasury will soon be + called up, and will probably cause that whole subject again to be + discussed. Should it call out the able men of the Senate while I am + in Washington, I could not desire a better opportunity to compare + them. I will write you on my arrival, and afterwards from time to + time. You must take good care of your health, and take things + easily. I know of no one that has a better right. We have nothing + new in Newport. My health is perfect both in body and mind; in other + words, I have never had better health in either respect. Give my + love to all friends and the family. + + Your son, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + +Writes Halleck, January 15, 1841:-- + + I hope to soon meet you here, and enter into a friendly interchange + of thoughts and feelings without the formality of paper and ink. I + am anxious to give you a hearty shake by the hand and welcome you to + Washington. If you are left to your leisure hours, you will + undoubtedly have much enjoyment both in society and in Congress. You + must not anticipate too much pleasure in the crowded parties of the + metropolis. To me they are perfect bores. + + Let me know when you are to come on, and if not immediately I will + write you a long letter. Read this if you can. + + Yours in the true bonds of friendship, + H. WAGER HALLECK. + +Although unable to procure the cadet appointment for Oliver, he greatly +enjoyed his first visit to the capital, especially the debates in the +Senate, where he listened to both Clay and Webster. The former impressed +him as more a leader of men and controller of measures than the latter. + +One would think that with his official duties, and all the studies and +pursuits he was carrying on, every minute of his time must have been +taken up; yet he organized a course of lectures for the winter, and +himself delivered an address on Oliver Cromwell, whose character and +achievements he greatly admired. In this lecture he presented with great +force and clearness a new and original conception of the great Puritan, +depicting him as a true patriot and a religious, God-fearing man, +obliged by the circumstances of the times to seize the helm of state in +order to save his country from despotism or anarchy. This was much the +view afterwards so ably set forth by Carlyle. This lecture excited no +little attention at the time; and when Carlyle's Cromwell appeared, not +long afterwards, it was said that the lecture would seem to have been +taken from that work, had it not been delivered before that was +published. He afterwards delivered this lecture in Andover and other +places. + +In the spring of 1841 he was placed in charge of Fairhaven Battery in +New Bedford, Mass., in addition to his duties in Newport. This required +frequent trips to the former place, which he usually made by stage, but +several times he traversed the intervening country on foot. On one of +these trips, in an economical mood he refrained from dinner in order to +save the cost of the meal. Soon afterwards a lean and friendless dog +attached himself to him, and followed his footsteps so persistently, and +looked so piteous and hungry, that the young man's sensibilities were +touched, and he stopped at a farmhouse and purchased a good dinner for +the half-starved animal, which, as he laughingly declared, cost all he +had saved by his self-denial. + +[Illustration: MARGARET LYMAN STEVENS + +_From Miniature by Staigg, 1841_] + +A letter from Mr. Bishop conveyed the afflicting and unlooked-for +intelligence of the death of Susan, April 8, 1841, from pulmonary +disease, after a brief illness. Thus unexpectedly passed away another +loved sister, and one whose sunny, affectionate disposition, fine mind, +and high principles had especially endeared her. + +Benjamin Hazard died March 10, 1841. During his lingering illness he +derived much comfort and pleasure from the society and attentions of the +talented and sympathetic young man. He gladly sanctioned his betrothal +with his daughter Margaret, and willingly intrusted the future of his +beloved child to one whom he both loved and respected, and in whose +character and ability he had the fullest confidence. + +The marriage was solemnized by Mr. Brooks, September 8, 1841, in the +great parlor of the old mansion, the same apartment which witnessed the +wedding of "Charming Polly" and her Revolutionary hero, and of their +daughter Harriet and Benjamin Hazard, the parents of the present bride. + +It was a quiet and simple ceremony, so soon after the death of Mr. +Hazard, but the ample room was well filled with beautiful young girls, +the sisters and cousins of the bride, officers in full uniform, the +companions of the groom, and old friends of the family. Hither came from +Andover the groom's brother Oliver, and cousin Henry H. Stevens, his +West Point friend, Lieutenant Jeremy F. Gilmer, from Washington, +Lieutenants James L. Mason, Henry J. Hunt, and Lewis G. Arnold, from +Newport, and a goodly number of Lymans and Dunnells from Providence, +uncles, aunts, and cousins of the bride. + + + + + CHAPTER VI + + CHARGE OF WORKS: NEW BEDFORD, PORTSMOUTH, PORTLAND, + BUCKSPORT + + +The wedding journey was to New York by Long Island Sound, and thence up +the Hudson to West Point, where they spent several days, and were +received with flattering attentions by his old friends. With great pride +and pleasure Mr. Stevens presented them to his lovely bride, and +revisited with her the romantic scenes of the Point, endeared by so many +pleasant associations. They returned by way of Springfield and Boston. + + NEW BEDFORD, September 24, 1841. + + MY DEAR FATHER,--I was very glad to see Oliver and my cousin Henry + at Newport on the occasion of my marriage, and, though your presence + would have afforded me much pleasure, yet, as I well knew that it + was a busy season with you, and that something very unusual only + could induce you to leave home, I was not much disappointed at your + not coming. You will certainly see us as early as next Thanksgiving. + We had a most pleasant trip, were favored with unusually fine + weather, and were disappointed in no one of our anticipations. + Margaret had never visited West Point before, and had always lived + in a country the scenery of which is very tame compared with the + alpine grandeur of the Highlands. I had said a great deal to her + about West Point, and I feared that her expectations were raised + high above the reality. I was, however, agreeably surprised by her + assertion that her ideas had scarcely approached the truth. The day + after our arrival at West Point she insisted upon climbing to the + Crow's Nest, which you recollect is two miles from West Point, and + commands the plain about twelve or fourteen hundred feet. Finding + that my dissuasion had little effect, I took her up one of the + roughest ways,--in many places we had to ascend almost perpendicular + rocks. In one hour and a half we were on the very topmost height of + the mountain. We came back by a rough, winding, long road, and got + to the hotel four hours after leaving it. I call that a pretty good + feat for a lady. From Hudson to Springfield the road was completed + except about two miles near Chester Factories. It passes through a + most wild and picturesque country, follows the valley of one of the + rivers that empties into the Connecticut for some thirty miles, + crossing it frequently and constantly changing direction, and is + constructed in a truly magnificent style. + + We got back to Newport just seven days after leaving it. There I + found orders had been awaiting me two days to repair to New Bedford, + to take charge of all the repairs of the old fort. You can judge of + the urgency of the orders from my going to New Bedford the next day, + and leaving Margaret at Newport, where she has been ever since. We + arrived at Newport about four o'clock on Thursday. I left the next + day at two o'clock, made an inspection of the fort on Saturday + forenoon, issued a hand-bill the same day for mechanics and + laborers, and on Monday morning had a gang of about twenty men at + work. I never was in New Bedford before, and knew not a single man + in the place. Monday morning I fell in with a real full-blooded + Yankee, whom I engaged as overseer, and immediately sent around the + country for stone-cutters and masons. I went on Monday into a ledge + of granite rock, and have already thrown out about two hundred tons + of stone, and got about a hundred feet cut. The people in New + Bedford are disposed to criticise my plans, but they will find out I + know what I am about, and that they had better save their sneers for + some other object. After I had been at work three days, I dismissed + three men for idleness, which had a very good effect. My plan is to + be rather familiar with every man, but at the same time to make + every one feel that he must do his duty. To-morrow I am going to + Newport after Margaret. I have been so busy that I have had no time + to miss her. In fact, this is the very first moment since I have + been in New Bedford that I have been able to write home. Now my + business has got into a regular course, and will require but little + time to attend to it. Whether I shall spend the winter in Newport, + or New Bedford, I don't know. I have at present only orders to get + in readiness platforms for nine guns. + + Your son, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + + Mr. ISAAC STEVENS. + +The young couple boarded in Fairhaven, a suburb of New Bedford, for +several months, and then removed to the town. They entered with lively +interest into the society of the place, at that time the abode of many +wealthy and somewhat aristocratic families. Mr. Stevens had already made +the favorable acquaintance of the first people before bringing his wife +there; her family and personal attractions were known, and they were +cordially received. Mrs. Hazard made them a short visit during the +winter. + +Halleck asks his assistance in starting an engineering journal for the +corps. + + I know too well your zeal for the profession to doubt for a moment + that the measure will receive your countenance, and the support of + your able pen. If we succeed in the undertaking, I am quite sure + that it will be of much advantage to us individually, and will + contribute greatly to the reputation of the corps. + + If the delights of married life have not entirely driven away the + recollection of old bachelor friends, I hope you will again favor me + with one of your old-fashioned letters. I have heard too much of the + attractions of your bride to scold you for so long neglecting me. + From all accounts, my dear Stevens, I must pronounce you a most + fortunate and happy man, and I shall embrace the first opportunity + to make the acquaintance of your lady, and most heartily welcome her + into our corps. + + Yours most truly, + H. WAGER HALLECK. + +The young couple spent Thanksgiving in Andover. The stern but +true-hearted father, deeply mourning the untimely loss of his two elder +daughters, was gladdened by the presence of five children,--Sarah, +Isaac, Oliver, Mary, and the new daughter, Margaret. The latter was +greatly admired, and was received with warm affection and kindness by +them, and by uncles William and Nathaniel and their families. She was +highly interested and pleased with the Thanksgiving festivities, a new +experience to her; for the Quakers and Come-outers of Rhode Island, many +of whom left Massachusetts to escape the tyranny of the "Lord Brethren," +never made much of that holiday, but kept Christmas instead. + +After a delightful visit of a week, they returned to New Bedford and the +pleasures of domestic life, and for the young husband what he always +enjoyed,--hard work. This seriously encroached upon his proposed course +of study and reading, yet with Mason he would run up to Providence to +hear Ralph Waldo Emerson's lectures. + +On June 9, 1842, their first child, a boy, was born in the old Newport +mansion, and named Hazard, after his maternal grandfather. + + NEWPORT, June 9, 1842. + + MY DEAR FATHER,--I came here last Friday with the intention of + returning to New Bedford on Monday, but I was seized with a very + violent bilious attack that kept me in the house for a day or two. + The physician that was called prescribed calomel, and I was fool + enough to take it, the consequence of which is that instead of being + perfectly well to-day, as I should otherwise have been, I have a + pain in my bones, and not half the elasticity that generally attends + my recovery. However, calomel or no calomel, I don't regret my + illness, for it has been the cause of my being in Newport at a most + interesting moment. Early this morning Margaret was safely delivered + of a fine, healthy boy, after an uncommonly short and easy labor. + She was fortunate in the attendance of a most judicious, skillful, + and experienced physician, a younger brother of her father, who has + been in an extensive practice for more than forty years. Now, + father, you may fairly say that you have a right to your gray hairs. + Gray hairs and grandfathers always go together. The little fellow + has been squalling most unmercifully this morning, and seems to take + it for granted that no one's convenience is to be consulted but his + own. If he will but show the same energy in the development of his + other faculties, we may expect great things of him. + + Your son, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + +During the greater part of this year Oliver pursues his studies at +Phillips Academy in South Andover; Sarah is teaching an unruly school in +Saugus, Mass., where she punishes a refractory boy, maintains order, and +overcomes the unreasonable anger of the boy's parents in a way that +proves her gifted with much firmness, decision, and good sense. Only +Mary remains at home. She writes: "We had a fugitive slave to spend the +night with us. He was as black a person as I ever saw." So it appears +that the old Abolitionist is doing his part towards the "underground +railroad," as harboring and forwarding fugitive slaves was termed. + +Elizabeth, in Tennessee, became engaged in the spring to Mr. L.M. +Campbell, a promising young lawyer, and they were married September 9. + +After the birth of the child, Mr. Stevens and his wife went to keeping +house in New Bedford. Sarah visited them in the winter, and on her +return home in March, 1843, they accompanied her as far as Boston, where +they remained a week while Mr. Stevens attended to some engineering +duties on one of the islands in the harbor. In April he was again in +Boston, while his young wife was visiting her mother in Newport for +election day in May, when the state government was to be inaugurated. + +Lieutenant Stevens received orders to assume charge of the +fortifications at Portsmouth, N.H., to which those at Portland, Maine, +were added soon afterwards. These consisted of Forts Constitution and +Scammell at the former, and Forts Preble and McClary at the latter +place. Breaking up housekeeping at New Bedford in 1843, and leaving his +wife and boy in Newport, and the little stock of furniture and +belongings stored in the old mansion temporarily, Lieutenant Stevens +proceeded to Portsmouth and took charge of the works. Having in his ever +prompt and energetic manner set everything under way, he returned to +Newport, and brought his little family to the new station. They boarded +for a short time, then he leased a spacious house, using a portion of it +as an office. They speedily found themselves among warm friends and +pleasant surroundings. Lieutenant Tom Breese, of the navy, a generous, +whole-souled gentleman, who had married Lucy Randolph, a cousin of Mrs. +Stevens, was stationed at the navy yard, and made them more than +welcome. Lieutenant A.W. Whipple, of the engineers, a fellow student at +West Point, was conducting a survey of the harbor. He became a +major-general, commanded the third division, third corps, Army of the +Potomac, and was mortally wounded at the battle of Chancellorsville. +There were also Colonel Crane, Captain Stanberry, and Lieutenants +William H. Fowler and Joseph Hooker, of the army, and Major Harris, of +the marines. Hooker afterwards rose to be major-general, and commanded +the Army of the Potomac at Chancellorsville. Portsmouth, like Newport, +had its old families and cultivated and agreeable society, which +cordially received the young engineer officer and his wife. Among the +first to call upon Mrs. Stevens were Mrs. John L. Hayes and Mrs. Samuel +Elliott Coues, two beautiful young women, the daughters of Mr. Alexander +Ladd, and a warm friendship grew up between the families, which +continued after all three moved to Washington in after years. + +In Portland, only a few miles distant, resided Rev. Asa Cummings, Mr. +Stevens's maternal uncle, the editor of the "Christian Mirror," and his +house was always open to the young couple like a second home. During the +winter Mrs. Stevens's sister Mary visited them. There was much social +visiting and many entertainments; they attended the marriage of +Lieutenant Whipple and Miss Sherburne. They were on board the frigate +Portsmouth when she was launched at the navy yard. + +Mr. Stevens found his hands full, with the two sets of works intrusted +to him, and was obliged to spend no little time in traveling between +them. At Fort Preble he planned and built the barracks, conceded to be +among the best arranged in the country. Having to cross the harbor +frequently in his visits to the fort, he had built at Newport one of the +catboats for which that town was famous, and had it brought to Portland. +He also brought on from New Bedford a faithful retainer, named Daniel +Murphy, and put him in charge of the boat. + +In addition to these onerous and responsible duties, he was placed in +sole charge of the fortification of the narrows of the Penobscot River, +where it was decided to build a regular, bastioned, casemated work for +forty guns on the right bank of the river, opposite Bucksport, to be +named Fort Knox. Mr. Stevens visited Bucksport in July, 1843, on this +new duty. The first thing to be done was to purchase the site for the +fort, and for this purpose he sought the owners of the land and made +arrangements with them. One of these, an old farmer, not deeming it +possible that the government could be represented in so important a +matter by so young, boyish-looking, and unassuming a man, refused to +talk with him, and soon afterwards, meeting an acquaintance, complained +to him about that young fellow, a mere boy, talking to him as to buying +his farm for the government, etc. To his astonishment, his friend +assured him that he had made a great mistake, that the young man was +Lieutenant Stevens, of the engineer corps, who had entire charge of +building the fort, and advised him to lose no time in seeking the young +officer and explaining his mistake, which he made haste to do. This +incident shows how youthful Mr. Stevens appeared at that time, although +twenty-five years old, a husband and a father. He was always quiet and +unobtrusive in manner, without a trace of self-assertion or +pretentiousness; and the marked impression he made upon all with whom he +came in contact was due to real superiority of mind and spirit, and not +to any adventitious advantages of stature or manner. + +He also, in July, visited Castine, and inspected and reported upon the +old works there, which had been fortified and held by the British during +the war of 1812. + +His sisters were again widely scattered from their father's house. +During the summer Sarah was staying with uncle Asa Cummings, and, being +attacked by a severe cough, Mary came there to wait upon her, and also +to attend school. Their brother Isaac constantly visited them, and +supplied them with books and comforts. He also freely aided Oliver with +funds. He was at North Yarmouth fitting for college, and helping himself +by teaching school. + +With all these calls upon him, Mr. Stevens was obliged to ask his father +to repay-- + + "as much, not exceeding one hundred dollars, as you can conveniently + raise. My expenses in the way of traveling have been very heavy this + year. Three journeys to Bangor already, and two more in + contemplation, besides quite a number between Portland and + Portsmouth. With this I send you the 'National Anti-Slavery + Standard,' the organ of the American Anti-Slavery Society. I have + just commenced taking the paper. I like its spirit and views much." + +In this letter he speaks of spending four days in Portland, and finding +Sarah improved and Mary well; gives a long account of the condition and +medical treatment of the former, and suggests means for her recovery and +plans for Mary's education. These sisters were very dear to him, and he +was very solicitous for their welfare. But Sarah rapidly grew worse with +quick consumption, and died February 8, 1844, only twenty-two years old. +After her death, Mary returned home. + +One day at Portsmouth, as Mr. Stevens was at work in his office and his +young wife was at the window, her attention was attracted by a unique +vehicle coming down the street, followed by a tail of small boys in high +glee. This was a rude sleigh fashioned out of poles, and drawn by a +rough-looking nag, whose coat was innocent of currycomb and brush. +Seated on a box in the bottom of the sleigh, and driving the horse with +entire unconcern at the attention he was attracting, was a large, tall +man, with light hair and fair, florid complexion, clad in homespun garb, +the very type of an independent backwoods farmer. Stopping at the door, +he inquired for _Leftenant_ Stevens, who ran down, and was surprised and +pleased to find in the rustic caller one of his mother's brothers, John +Cummings, from Albany, on his way to Andover. How uncle John received a +warm welcome, how he was brought in and given a hearty supper, while his +team was sent around to the nearest stable, and how he was loaded with +viands and supplies enough to last the remainder of his journey when he +resumed it, may be imagined. Such an opportunity to dispense hospitality +to one of his relatives was a source of unalloyed pleasure to the young +officer. + +The laying out and starting the fort at Bucksport engrossed most of his +attention in the spring of 1844. The care of important works at three +different places necessitated incessant traveling, besides which he had +to visit Boston periodically to obtain and bring down the public funds +required. With all these duties and cares he was more than fully +occupied, and was obliged to lay aside, for the present at least, his +projected law studies. He also sent abroad and purchased a number of +French works on fortifications and military history. He became deeply +interested in the forts under his charge, and was indefatigable in +urging upon the Engineer Bureau in Washington improvements and measures +which his active mind was quick to observe. Indeed, in his zeal he +overworked himself, and was prostrated with severe sickness in +consequence. "You work too hard," writes his sister Mary; "you will not +live five years unless you take business easier." During the summer he +was able to give Oliver employment on Fort Preble, and writes his father +that "Oliver has acquitted himself with credit; had to manage a gang of +twenty-five men." + +Mrs. Stevens spent part of the summer at her mother's house in Newport, +where, on June 27, their second child was born, a daughter, named Julia +Virginia. Early in August Mr. Stevens went to Newport to escort his +little family to Bucksport. They spent several days in Andover, +accompanied by Mrs. Stevens's sister Nancy, where they met Elizabeth and +her husband, just arrived from Tennessee on a visit. Mary was at home, +and there was a pleasant family reunion. After this agreeable little +visit they went to Boston and took the steamboat for Bucksport, Miss +Nancy Hazard returning to Newport. + +In the fall Elizabeth and Mr. Campbell returned to Tennessee, after a +round of visits to her relatives in Massachusetts and Maine. Mary +accompanied them. + +Arriving at Bucksport the last of August, they found quarters at an +old-fashioned country tavern, the only hotel in the place, where they +had comfortable though rustic accommodations. The principal people, with +the cordial hospitality characteristic of Maine, welcomed them to the +town. + +At first many, like the old farmer, were disposed to sneer at the young +stripling, but the energetic, thorough-going, and effective way in which +he organized and drove on the works, his decided, self-reliant +character, sound, sensible conversation, and simple, direct manners, +soon won their approval and admiration, and he became a great favorite, +and much respected and looked up to as well as liked. After a short +sojourn at the tavern, he leased a large, roomy house of Judge Pond, +half of which he set apart as an office, and made his residence in the +other half. Kidder Randolph, a cousin of Mrs. Stevens, was employed as +chief clerk, and with his wife, _née_ Isabella Updike, came on from +Newport. He also employed in the office Mr. Isaac Osgood, a +fellow-townsman from Andover, and on the works, as assistant, Mr. Abiel +W. Tinkham. + +The Penobscot at this point is some half a mile wide, with a strong +tidal current. For crossing the river he provided a four-oared barge, +over which Daniel Murphy was installed as coxswain. Every morning the +young engineer officer would cross the river to supervise the works, and +return to the town late in the afternoon or in the evening. A large +force was set to work. Soon deep excavations, great banks of earth, and +vast piles of granite and other materials attested the vigor with which +the construction was pushed. He visited many quarries far and near, and +examined and tested the granite. As this material was landed in great, +heavy blocks and masses on the river-bank, and had to be hauled thence +to the works up a considerable ascent, he bought many oxen for the +purpose, scouring the country for the largest and finest to be had. In +these teams he took great pride, and especially enjoyed taking friends +and visitors to see them. He was also quite proud of his ability to +select good workmen from their appearance. A well-shaped head, with a +full, high forehead, he used to say, denoted a good man, reliable, +intelligent, and industrious. + +The lonely old man in Andover writes a pathetic letter to Isaac in +December, urging him to make him a visit. Of his seven children, not one +was at home at Thanksgiving. Three daughters had died; the remaining two +were far distant in Tennessee; Isaac was in Bucksport, and Oliver in +North Yarmouth. With deep feeling the aged and lonely father writes: "My +children,--you may well suppose I thought of them." + +Mr. Stevens again had a severe sickness in the winter, the result +probably of overwork, although he used to say that the cold winter +climate of Maine did not agree with him, that it rendered his faculties +torpid or benumbed. In February, however, he visited Washington, and was +present at Polk's inauguration as President. He embraced this +opportunity to urge upon Colonel Totten, chief of engineers, the need of +increased appropriations for the works under his charge, and with such +success that the other engineer officers complained that Stevens had +left no funds for their works. + +During 1845 Mr. Stevens was vigorously pushing the building of Fort +Knox, as well as attending to the works at Portland and Portsmouth. In +May he received a confidential letter from Colonel Totten, asking if he +desired transfer to and promotion in one of the new regiments about to +be raised, which, with his characteristic reply, is given:-- + + [CONFIDENTIAL.] + + ENGINEER DEPARTMENT, + WASHINGTON, 28th May, 1845. + +LIEUTENANT ISAAC I. STEVENS, + _Corps of Engineers_, _Bucksport, Maine_: + +_Sir_,--In case of an increase of the military establishment at the next +session of Congress, I shall probably be called upon to know if any +officers of engineers desire a transfer to the new forces, with +promotion. + +Would you desire such a transfer? What is the lowest grade that you +would be willing to accept? And in what arm of the service? + + Very respectfully, your obt. svt., + JOSEPH G. TOTTEN, _Col. and Ch. Eng._ + +I have already been spoken to on this subject by one high in authority. + + BUCKSPORT, MAINE, June 24, 1845. + COLONEL JOSEPH G. TOTTEN, + _Chief Engineer_, _Washington_: + + _Sir_,--In answer to the confidential circular of the Department of + the 28th ultimo, asking if I should desire a transfer with promotion + to the new forces, in case of an increase of the military + establishment at the next session of Congress, I beg to say + generally and comprehensively that I hold myself in readiness to + discharge to the best of my ability the duties of any position which + shall enlarge my sphere of action and of usefulness, and with which, + in the judgment of those intrusted with the administration of public + affairs, I may be deemed worthy to be invested; promotion or no + promotion, in my own corps or in any other corps or department of + the public service, and whether the field of duty be in Oregon, + California, or at the North Pole. + + I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, + ISAAC I. STEVENS, _Lieut. of Eng'rs._ + +This reply evinces a certain impatience, or disapproval, at the idea of +consulting the personal wishes and preferences of an officer as to his +assignment to duty. Mr. Stevens always held high ideals of public +duty,--many would deem them quixotic and overstrained. He ever deemed +it the duty of appointing officers to select the ablest and best-fitted +man for any post or service that could be found, and that it was the +duty of every public officer to serve with complete self-abnegation and +patriotic zeal. His whole career proved the sincerity of his convictions +on this point. + +In consequence of the hostile attitude assumed by Mexico upon the +admission of Texas into the Union against her protests, Colonel Totten, +on June 8, writes the following confidential order:-- + + "In all the forts under your charge (including the narrows of the + Penobscot) you should, as soon as it can be done advantageously, + place all your batteries in a state of perfect readiness for guns, + leaving nothing to be done but the mounting of the guns when they + shall arrive. It is of infinite importance, should any exigency + arise, that the preparation of the country shall not be found + deficient in any manner depending on the Engineer Department." + +General Taylor with a small force was thrown into Texas to protect the +newly acquired State, and the increasing probabilities of war with +Mexico were eagerly discussed by the ambitious young army officers. In +September Mr. Stevens accompanied Colonel Totten on a tour of inspection +of all the works under his charge, and entertained him and Mrs. Totten +for several days at his house in Bucksport. + +Mr. Stevens was never so well pleased as when dispensing hospitality in +his own house. He was continually bringing friends home to dinner, often +on short notice, and always liked to have some of his relatives visiting +him. His wife's sister Nancy spent the summer with them. Brother Oliver, +uncle William's daughter Eliza and son William, Mrs. Hazard and her son +Thomas, and sister, Miss Eliza B. Lyman, and uncle Nathaniel, also +visited them, and, after much urging, his father, from Andover, was +induced to make a brief visit. He employed Oliver again this summer on +Fort Preble. Always ready and glad to serve any relative or friend, he +saw to the purchasing and shipping of several cargoes of hay for uncle +Nathaniel, declining to accept any recompense for his services. + +On December 7 the little girl, Julia Virginia, died of water on the +brain, after a brief illness. She was a beautiful, gentle child, and a +great pet of her father, who delighted to place her on his office table +when he was at work, oftentimes to the sad disarrangement of his plans +and drawings, and her death was a severe affliction. The following +beautiful lines were written by Mr. Brooks, in condolence upon the sad +loss:-- + + "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well + With that bright creature evermore, + Gone up, 'mid seraph bands to dwell + With God on yonder starry shore. + + "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well, + Though marble-cold that lily brow, + And though no sage nor seer can tell + Where soars the mind that beamed there now. + + "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well, + Though still in death that speaking eye; + A shadow o'er the spirit fell-- + 'T is past--a star is in the sky! + + "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well + With her, that sweet and guileless one; + Toll not for her the gloomy knell, + Though gilds her grave the morning sun. + + "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well, + And well with us who mourn, if we, + By penitence made pure, might dwell, + Sweet child of God! with Him and thee. + +During the winter Mr. Stevens organized a course of lectures for the +Bucksport Lyceum, delivering one lecture himself, and writing to +lecturers in different parts of the country, engaging their services, +and inviting them to his house. Among the lecturers and subjects were: +John A. Peters, on "The Profession of Politics;" William B. Merton, on +"American Literature;" J.A. Smith, on "The Present State of English +Poetry;" Henry Giles, George Shepard, and others, whose subjects are not +known. He also became interested in organizing a Unitarian Church in +Bucksport, and corresponded with Dr. A.P. Peabody in regard to a pastor, +etc., but it was found impracticable to do this. + +Mr. Stevens was never a sportsman or fisherman; indeed, he kept himself +so immersed in work as never to have time for field sports, yet he was +especially fond of the noble salmon which were taken in the Penobscot, +and delighted to send fine, handsome specimens of this noble fish to his +father, Mrs. Hazard, and other friends. He had a fish-weir built below +the fort, in which many fish were taken at times. + +Convinced of the desirability of organizing a body of engineer troops as +part of the army, for several years Mr. Stevens kept writing urgent +memorials and letters to the Engineer or War Department in advocacy of +the plan. In those days the rank and file were nearly all foreigners, +and far inferior in character to the regular soldiers of the present +day. For the engineer troops he advocated enlisting American young men +of intelligence, good character and physique, putting them under a +thorough course of instruction, with strict discipline, in order "to +raise them to the highest state of discipline and efficiency, a fair +representation of what an American army might and should be, so that +every man in the company can, if he chooses to study and do his duty, +become a good clerk, overseer, or practical engineer." Moreover, in case +of war, or an increase of the army, some of the best qualified and most +deserving men might be given commissions. He was deeply impressed with +and admired Cromwell's policy of raising his "ironsides" among men of +good family and substance, discarding "serving-men and tapsters," and +was full of the idea of making the American army as honorable for the +common soldier as for the officer. The soundness of these views is now +becoming recognized, and within the last few years steps have been taken +to raise the standard of regular soldiers by enlisting only the better +class of men, and giving them more instruction, advantages, and +opportunities, even to appointing officers from the ranks. + +At length the War Department decided to allow the raising of an engineer +company, and Lieutenant Stevens issued circulars calling for men, and +personally enlisted the first soldier in the new corps, private Lathrop. +The company formed part of Scott's army in Mexico, where it rendered +distinguished service under Captain G.W. Smith and Lieutenant George B. +McClellan, the former of whom became a Confederate major-general, and +the latter was the well-known commander of the Army of the Potomac. + +In July, 1846, Mr. Stevens was in Boston loading a vessel with material +for Fort Knox. During this summer Mrs. Stevens's eldest sister, Miss +Emily L. Hazard, with her little nephew, Charlie Brooks, made them a +visit, and two other sisters, Mary and Nancy, spent the summer and fall +with them. + +The Mexican war was now in full progress with Taylor's campaign on the +Rio Grande, and Lieutenant Stevens, ambitious for active service, but +unwilling to urge his personal wishes, writes the chief of engineers +that sedentary employment is prejudicial to his health,--needs exercise +in the open air,--would respond with alacrity to any call made upon him +for service in Mexico, adding that he makes no personal application, but +simply states facts, etc. At last, on December 25, he received his +orders, and in two hours was speeding by sleigh over snow-drifted roads +to Bangor, reaching Portland the next day, and Boston the 28th. Miss +Nancy Hazard went, under his escort, as far as Boston, returning home. +Miss Mary remained in Bucksport to spend the winter with her sister, who +needed her society and care, for on November 20, the second daughter, +Sue, was born. + + + + + CHAPTER VII + + VOYAGE TO MEXICO + + + BOSTON, MASS., December 29, 1846. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--We reached Boston yesterday at half past twelve, + after a very pleasant journey from Bangor. The weather was unusually + mild, and we experienced very little fatigue. Nancy took the + afternoon cars for Providence. This afternoon the steamer Perry runs + to Newport and will take her home. + + I shall not sail probably till Saturday. + + I have determined to take out a complete equipment, even to a + servant. I am causing inquiries to be made this morning, and in case + I find no one to my mind, I shall send for Daniel Murphy. Daniel + would be so devoted to me. If I were sick he would take care of me. + Daniel, too, would feel with me perfectly secure from all harm. The + quartermaster will furnish me here with a camp equipage. I shall + provide myself with a saddle, india-rubber leggings, and everything + complete, so that not for a single instant shall I be delayed on + reaching my destination. Immediately on my landing I wish to be + ready for service. I may take out a horse. I wish some of my good + friends would present me one. I should want a horse worth three + hundred dollars. + + I have sent for Oliver to spend the day with me to-morrow. I thought + it best not to send for father. It will be hard for him to part with + me, and he had better stay at home. + + Since leaving you my mind has dwelt much upon my little family. I + know you will look on the bright side. In all candor, I consider my + life as safe in Mexico as in Maine. I hope to get a sound + constitution, and to come back to you, my dear Margaret, in due + season, sound in body and none the worse for wear. You have a + treasure in your own mother and brothers and sisters. Mary is with + you. I feel grateful to her for giving up so promptly her own + wishes to stay with you. I hope you will have a pleasant winter. + Keep up your spirits, and have faith in the future and in the God of + the future. I go to Mexico without a single foreboding. I have + faith, almost implicit faith, that I shall come back. Have faith + with me. + + So long as I remain in Boston you shall hear from me every day. Love + to Mary and the chicks. + + Affectionately yours, + ISAAC. + + BOSTON, MASS., December 30, 1846. + +MY DEAR MARGARET,--Oliver has come down to pass the day with me. We are +hard at work preparing inventories and getting everything ready. We have +a fine vessel, and I look forward to a pleasant passage. + +Oliver brought me the sad intelligence of the death of Elizabeth on the +10th of December. Campbell wrote further a most feeling and excellent +letter. Elizabeth suffered but little, and everything was done for her +that could be suggested by the forethought of the most devoted of +husbands. + +Her child was very well. Mary, we expect, will return in the spring. I +shall try and send you a little note every day. Write me at Brazos +Santiago, and write often, commencing now. Write once a week, adding +something to your letters each day. + +Remember me to all. + + Affectionately, + ISAAC. + +Lieutenant Stevens's orders were to take charge of the pontoon and +engineer trains, then being loaded on shipboard in Boston, and accompany +the same to the headquarters of General Scott in Mexico, touching first +at Brazos Santiago, Texas. + +Notwithstanding the urgency of his orders, various delays occurred, and +it was not until the 19th of January that the vessel sailed. During this +period of waiting he had a visit from his father, and one from Oliver, +also. His cousins Charles and Henry also came down from Andover to bid +him good-by. He spent a day in New Bedford, calling upon his friends +there. Daniel Murphy, having fallen sick, had to be sent home. + + BOSTON, MASS., January 13, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--I wrote you a brief note yesterday, stating that I + should not probably sail for some days. Having nothing to do here, + yet obliged to remain to be in readiness to obey any new orders, I + shall endeavor to spend my time in some rational manner. There are + military matters to be looked into and old friends to visit. + + I hope I shall hear from you, before I leave Boston, and very much + in full. I wish once more to look into the little details of your + daily life, before I commit myself to the broad bosom of the great + waters. + + January 14. Yesterday I passed a portion of the day in Cambridge; + found Mrs. Breese and family all well. The children had grown much + since I last saw them. Mrs. Breese seemed very resigned, but she has + evidently been a great mourner. She was the same hospitable, + noble-hearted woman as of old. She expects to get to Newport about + May; will go to housekeeping in their old house. + + I saw the forty-eight Viennese dancers last evening. It was + splendid. They are young girls from four years to sixteen, all + handsome and perfectly trained. Everybody goes to see them. Last + evening there was a great turn-out of the beauty and fashion of + Boston. + + You shall hear from me again before I leave. There is no probability + of my sailing before Saturday. Love to Hazard and the babe. + Remembrances, and + + Yours affectionately, + ISAAC. + + BOSTON, MASS., January 15, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--There is now every prospect of my getting off + to-morrow. I may not reach the Brazos till the middle of February. + Colonel Totten left on the 12th for Mexico, and I shall without + doubt serve under his immediate direction. Eighteen officers of + engineers are either in Mexico, or on their way thither. + + I trust I shall get a few lines from you to-morrow before I sail, as + otherwise a month must pass before any tidings reach me. Do not fall + to write quite often to me at the Brazos. I shall not object, you + know, to find a dozen letters, more or less. + + To-day I dined at Mr. Eben Dale's, a nephew of aunt Cummings. Cousin + Charles Stevens dined there also. He designs going this evening to + see the Viennese dancers. I wish you could see them. Everybody is + charmed. Whole families go, children and all, and to-morrow there is + to be an afternoon exhibition for the particular benefit of the + children. + + I will write you again before I sail. + + Affectionately yours, + ISAAC STEVENS. + + BOSTON, MASS., January 19, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--It is now ten o'clock in the morning, and I shall + in an hour take my departure for Mexico. + + We have a fine vessel--good officers and crew--and it is a charming + day. + + I hoped to have heard from you before I left, but no letter has + reached me. + + God bless you and the little ones. + + Yours affectionately, + ISAAC. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--It is now January 27, and the eighth day of our + being at sea. I wrote you a brief note on the day I sailed, Tuesday, + January 19. We left the wharf at three P.M., with a strong westerly + wind, which drove our bark through the water at the rate of eight + knots per hour. The weather was very cold, but with my cloak around + me, I remained on deck several hours. Soon Boston and its suburbs + vanished in the distance, and we were fairly embarked on our + journey's way. As I think it will interest you, I will jot down the + occurrences of each day since our departure. And first of all, my + ocean home is in a beautifully modeled and fast-sailing bark of + about two hundred tons, called the Prompt. There are twelve souls on + board: Captain Wellman, first officer Gallicer, second officer + Stebbins, six men before the mast, one man acting as cook and + steward, my servant, a nice Irish lad, Owen Clarke, nineteen years + of age, and your humble servant. The officers of the bark are a fine + set of fellows, and the crew perfectly cheerful and attentive to + their duty. Tuesday evening I was not much troubled with + sea-sickness, and I enjoyed a good night's rest; but Wednesday, + January 20, was a hard day, nothing but sea-sickness. In pursuance + of the advice of Captain Wellman, I remained on deck as much of the + time as possible. The weather was somewhat cold, but the wind + moderate. We drifted along the greater portion of the day, not + faster than two or three knots an hour. After suffering from + sea-sickness till noon, I went to my berth. There is an + inexpressible lassitude accompanying sea-sickness, that is worse + than anything else. It requires an effort to make the least + exertion. + + Thursday, January 21. This day we had snow all the time. I remained + on deck twelve hours, and towards evening felt vigorous and well. + The weather begins to grow milder. I begin to relish food and to + enjoy sea fare. Our steward has been sick ever since we left port, + and we are in consequence obliged to do the best we can without a + cook. It is now evening, the breeze freshens, the bark dances along + merrily, and there are signs of a gale of wind. I remained up till + eight o'clock, and then retired for the night. As I awoke from time + to time, I could observe from the working of our vessel that it went + hard on deck. I took things quietly and remained in my berth, and + about sunrise of + + Friday, January 22, I went on deck. The scene was wild and exciting. + The ocean tossed in wild confusion, and our brave bark riding the + crests of the waves like a sea-bird. The gale had been a severe one, + and the captain told me that at one time he expected he should be + obliged to lay to under bare poles. We pursued our way before the + wind, making nine and ten knots per hour. + + Saturday, January 23. The sea has become much smoother and the + weather milder. Yesterday we were in the midst of the Gulf Stream, + and to-day we have passed it. + + Sunday, January 24, was a beautiful day. The weather mild and lazy. + I was on deck all day,--part of the time reading, and part dozing + and sleeping. It is comfortable on deck without a coat. We are + getting rapidly into southern latitudes. + + Monday, Tuesday, January 25, 26. Head wind and slow progress. Monday + we saw several sail. The weather exceedingly mild and soft. I never + enjoyed existence more than on these two days,--that is, mere + existence. I dreamed away many hours, and built and pulled down air + castles. The thought of home was uppermost. What a change in outward + things in six days. In Bucksport you wrap your cloaks and comforters + around you; at sea we pull off our coats. My health is perfect; + everything like sea-sickness has left me. + + Wednesday, January 27. This is likewise a mild, soft, somewhat damp + day. We make exceedingly slow progress; the wind is dead ahead. I + fear we shall be a month reaching the Brazos. Shall I hear from you + there, and how many letters will await me? I trust I shall be with + you again in the course of the summer. I dwell much on my probable + duties in Mexico. In case the contest should be of short duration, I + shall certainly return in the course of the year. I fear that you + will take things hard in my absence. When I reach the Brazos, I may + be able to speak with some certainty of my duties in Mexico. + + Thursday, January 28. Last evening we had a rough night. This + morning the sea is very rough, and our bark is pitching about in all + directions. I am fortunate in having no return of sea-sickness. My + boy, Owen, is not so fortunate. I observed his head over the + bulwarks a few moments since in no equivocal position. He is a nice, + willing lad. I picked him up in Boston, the very day we sailed. He + is now in the steward's hands learning to cook. On reaching the + Brazos, he will be quite accomplished in the culinary art. + + Friday, January 29. To-day we are making fine progress, about nine + miles per hour; shall reach the Abaco Island, one of the Bahamas, on + Saturday (to-morrow night) at this rate. The weather is charming. I + have most of the day read in my military works, sitting on the deck + of the vessel. The weather is, indeed, rather warm. + + Saturday, January 30. Last night there was a change of wind, and + to-day we are making little or no progress. The sea somewhat rough. + We shall not reach the Abaco this evening. + + Sunday, January 31. Last evening the wind died away, and to-day we + have not moved one mile per hour. The sun has been warm; I have worn + nothing about my neck to-day. Several of the men are barefoot, and + all of us are in our shirt-sleeves. We are in about latitude 27°, + and some one hundred miles from the Bahamas. This calm weather is + very tedious, but we must be patient; we have now been out twelve + days. + + Monday, February 1. This has been an exquisite day. Soon after + dinner our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of land, the first + since leaving Boston, thirteen days since. Our bark glides along + with scarcely any perceptible motion. Towards night we approached + the Great Abaco, and about seven saw the revolving light and the + Hole in the Wall, caused, according to the jolly sons of Neptune, by + the Devil's chasing a porpoise through the rock-bound shore of the + Great Abaco. The hole is, indeed, a small arched opening through the + rocks, admitting the passage of a small boat. + + Friday, February 2. Another splendid day. Early in the morning we + made the Berry Islands, inhabited by some fifty or sixty blacks + under a black chief. We saw one of their boats returning from + turtle-fishing. About seven we commenced crossing the Bahama Banks + in soundings, nearly all the way of one hundred miles, from twelve + to twenty-four feet. We had a clean run, and went into deep water + about seven o'clock, running the one hundred miles in about twelve + hours. The evening was surpassingly lovely. I remained on deck till + ten, looking at the stars and thinking of home. + + Wednesday, February 3. This day has fairly brought us into the + Mexican Gulf. In ten days, I trust, we shall reach the Brazos. + To-day I have been overhauling my clothes. My boy Owen has mended + some rents in my garments. He says he can wash like "fun." The + captain teases him a good deal about the bright Irish lass he left + in Ann Street. Owen wants me, when I reach Mexico, not only to buy a + mule for his use, but a little cart for the things; quite an idea. + To-day we are in latitude 24° 13'. The weather very warm. I have + found the heat quite oppressive. + + Thursday, February 4. Nothing of consequence has occurred to-day. We + are moving on quickly with prosperous though gentle winds. + + Friday, February 5. Everything has moved on lazily to-day. We have + seen several vessels. + + Saturday, February 6. Same as yesterday. A vessel is in sight, + apparently bound to the north. It is now nearly three o'clock, and + we have been out eighteen days. I shall seal up and send this letter + by the vessel, if she prove to be bound north, and I trust it will + find you well. We are now about five hundred and sixty miles from + the Brazos. Shall I hear from you there? Love to the children, to + Mary; remembrances to Mr. Osgood, Kidder, Mr. and Mrs. Tinkham. + + The vessel did not send her boat, and no opportunity was offered to + send this letter. We passed directly under her stern. She was a brig + of two hundred tons, and bound to New York. This letter must remain + on my hands till I reach the Brazos. + + Sunday, February 7. A most melancholy event occurred on board today. + As I was lying in my berth, about a quarter before twelve o'clock, + Captain Wellman came into the cabin, somewhat agitated, and said to + me, "Our steward is not to be found." All hands were on deck in a + moment, and a thorough search was made in all parts of the ship. The + steward was not to be found anywhere. The appearance of the galley + was conclusive as to his having thrown himself overboard. He was + seen at half past eleven, and yet little or no preparation had been + made for dinner. He had been observed to be moody and absent-minded + in the course of the morning. We could assign no cause for the act. + He had been treated well, and his duties were light. My servant had + assisted him throughout the passage. His sudden disappearance whilst + four men were on deck, in good smooth weather, caused us all to feel + melancholy. We ate very little dinner. Our thoughts were sad, and we + passed much of our time through the remainder of the day in + recalling every little incident of the voyage having any connection + with the unfortunate steward. The only thing which gave any light + was certain expressions he had made use of, showing a melancholy and + restless spirit. We found out, moreover, that he was suffering very + severely from the bad disorder, contracted some two months since in + Liverpool. This may have been the cause of his making way with + himself. + + Monday, February 8. We none of us passed a quiet night, in + consequence of the distressing event of yesterday. One of the crew + has been put into the galley, and things go on in the accustomed + manner. This evening the effects of the steward were disposed of to + the crew at auction; and so he has gone to his account, and our bark + is pursuing her destined course. Our vessel has gone on very quietly + the last two days. + + Tuesday, February 9. We still have quiet times, and are gradually + approaching the Brazos. With tolerable good luck we shall arrive + there in two or three days. It is now evening and seven o'clock. + There is every appearance of a norther. The captain has been + somewhat anxiously pacing the deck for the last hour. It is now + eight o'clock, and I will turn in for the night. + + Wednesday, February 10. A severe norther came up about nine last + evening, and is now sweeping over the Gulf. Our bark works + admirably. Occasionally she ships a sea. But her deck for the most + part is dry. The weather is very cold, and I have kept my berth + nearly all day. + + Thursday, February 11. The norther did not commence to abate till + noon to-day. It is now six P.M. The water is comparatively smooth. I + have been somewhat unwell for two or three days, but hope to become + well with smoother weather. + + Friday, February 12. We had a quiet night, and this morning we have + scarcely a breath of wind. Our estimated distance from the Brazos is + about sixty miles. We shall not arrive till to-morrow. I fear I + shall not hear from you. There is some, yes, great doubt, whether + letters to the army are forwarded by mail beyond New Orleans, in + which event all your letters to me will remain in the New Orleans + office; nor can they be forwarded till I can send for them by some + ship going there. + + Saturday, February 13. It is now about two P.M., and we are in + direct view of the Brazos, which is some six miles distant. We are + beating up against a head wind, and there is considerable doubt as + to whether we shall make our anchorage to-night. The wind has + gradually subsided, and it is now nearly a calm. Unless a fresh + breeze should spring up, we shall require another day. This is our + twenty-fifth day. + + Sunday, February 14, five P.M. I have just reached the Brazos, and + find General Worth, Colonel Totten, Lieutenants Mason and Tower, and + many other officers here. An opportunity offers to send this letter. + I will write again in a few days. I shall remain at the Brazos a few + days longer. Remember me to Kidder and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. + Tinkham, Mr. Osgood, and love of course to the children and Mary. + + Affectionately yours, + ISAAC. + + BRAZOS SANTIAGO, February 21, 1847. + + MY DEAREST MARGARET,--It is now Sunday, one week since I landed. + Your letter and Mary's have reached me, and I have had the + inexpressible pleasure of hearing from home. How happy it made me to + hear from you all! My little children are doing well, your health is + good, and you are passing a quiet and comfortable winter. It is the + greatest joy to me to learn all this. I knew you would find Mr. + Osgood a great addition to our little circle, and with Mary as your + companion, who has always sympathized with you entirely, I did not + anticipate a very tiresome winter. + + Since reaching here I have had little or nothing to do. It was + fortunate I reached the Brazos as early as I did. I saw and had some + conversation with Colonel Totten. On Monday, the day after my + arrival, General Scott and a portion of his staff departed for + Tampico. There were left behind four officers of engineers, of + General Scott's staff, with directions to follow by the first + opportunity. These officers are Lieutenants Mason, Trapier, Tower, + and myself. Mason is in fine health, full of animation and + conversation, and very popular with his brother officers. Tower is + the same as ever, a man of great native power, but entirely + unobtrusive. Trapier is an officer you have never seen, a man of + fine address and considerable ability. We all like him very much + indeed. + + The general left in excellent spirits. On taking leave of the + engineer officers he made some very complimentary remarks in + reference to the importance of our duties, and his expectations in + regard to us. He will remain in Tampico a few days and then proceed + to the Island of Lobos, where a large expedition is to concentrate + to land and attack Vera Cruz. It is expected that a force of + fourteen thousand men will effect a landing. General Worth is in + command of three thousand regulars at this point, most of whom have + embarked. General Worth and staff are still here. He is somewhat + delicate in health, but full of life and energy. He is thought to be + our great man to handle troops on a battlefield. + + I have seen a good deal of my old friend Hunt the last few days. He + is attached to Colonel Duncan's battery, and is now in my room + talking with Mason. He is a man I esteem very much, and he is as + worthy of it as ever. Colonel Duncan has just come in. He is a noble + fellow, not in the least elated by the enviable position he occupied + in the army and before the whole country. He is a man of + extraordinary energy of character, great decision, and great + sagacity. His name and his battery are a terror to the Mexicans, and + he is emphatically thus far the great man of the young officers. He + is modest, amiable, mild, as he is far-sighted, decisive, + indomitable. He is what his friends knew him to be years ago. Mason + and himself are great friends. + + Captain Saunders of the engineers is here on General Worth's staff, + and will probably be brevetted for distinguished services at + Monterey. + + I shall probably sail on Wednesday next for Tampico, and thence to + the island of Lobos. Lobos is about sixty miles south of Tampico, + and affords an ample protection against northers. At Tampico I shall + probably find General Scott and staff. There I hope to meet Tilden, + Carpenter, and other old friends. + + Everything is in the greatest confusion here; a thousand laborers + and teamsters are employed to manage teams, take care of animals and + stores, and load and discharge lighters. Ever since my arrival, + there has been the greatest hurry in embarking troops. There is + great want of system. Most of the men here in government employ are + not business men. Some of the quartermasters are inefficient. There + are some good men. The best business man in the quartermaster's + employ is Lawton, of Newport, brother-in-law of the Turners (Colonel + Robert R. Lawton). He is harbor master, and in receipt of one + hundred and fifty dollars per month. Everybody speaks of him in the + highest terms. He is energetic, intelligent, and perfectly + temperate. He looks in admirable condition. He has applied for, and + will probably receive, a captain's commission in one of the new + regiments. I have seen and conversed with him here. He is full of + hope, life, and energy. + + General Butler has just arrived from Monterey, on his return to the + States, and in consequence of his wound not healing. General Taylor + occupies a position in advance of Saltillo, with eighteen + field-pieces, a small body of regular infantry, and some six + thousand volunteers. + + My dearest girl, I know nothing certain of ulterior operations. + + We have great abundance of supplies and some seven thousand choice + regular troops. We cannot expect the same conduct from the + volunteers as from the regulars, but we hope they will gain laurels. + I shall endeavor to do my duty in whatever circumstances I may be + placed. I trust I shall have full strength to do my full duty. I + know this will accord with all the wishes of your own heart. I know + you would rather never see me than that I should return to your arms + with infamy on my brow. This latter would be terrible. The former + can be borne. + + As regards our dear children, I wish Hazard to go to school this + summer, and I am glad he continues to be so promising. Of all + things, I wish him to be obedient. Not the obedience of fear, but of + love and confidence. Our little Susan I know must be a bright, merry + child. Would that I could witness daily her youth, growth, and + development! + + Preserve a tranquil spirit; let hope at all times animate and + strengthen you. Have courage, have faith; we shall come together + again, all the better for the trials of separation. I shall write a + note to Mary to accompany this. The mail leaves to-morrow for New + Orleans. Write often, and continue to direct your letters to Brazos + Santiago. + + Remember me to all my Bucksport friends, to Kidder and his wife, + Osgood, Mr. and Mrs. Tinkham. Of course all the love in the world + for Hazard and Sue. + + Affectionately yours, + ISAAC. + + TAMPICO, Wednesday Evening, March 10, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--We left the Brazos this evening week, and shall + leave this place to-morrow morning. Our passage of only two hundred + and fifty miles thus occupied us seven days. We are somewhat + apprehensive that we shall not reach Vera Cruz till General Scott + shall have effected a landing. Mason, Tower, and three other + officers are with me. Our ship now lies three miles outside the bar. + Our passage up the river Tampico to this place (six miles above the + bar) was a fairy scene. Beautiful views met our eyes, and the + picturesque country about this place perfectly enchanted us. The + atmosphere is delightful. We see few but Mexicans about us. Every + one looks friendly. News has just reached Tampico that General + Taylor has had a hard-fought battle with Santa Anna. All the + accounts came through Mexican channels. Santa Anna claims a victory. + He states that Taylor is shut up in Monterey. But he admits that he + himself has not advanced. We infer and believe that Santa Anna has + been defeated, and will soon return to San Luis Potosi. I feel + sanguine that a decisive success on the part of General Scott may + terminate the war. I hope so. + + There is a chance to send this letter in the morning. I of course + write in haste. You shall hear from me again on my arrival at Vera + Cruz. + + Affectionately yours, + ISAAC. + + The landing took place on Tuesday and Wednesday last (March 9 and + 10), and the investment was completed on Thursday. The heavy + ordnance is still on board ship. The debarkation is said to have + been a most splendid affair. The first division landed in two hours. + General Worth was the first man to jump on shore. The city will + undoubtedly fall in a few days. No opposition whatever was made by + the Mexicans to the landing. There was a little skirmishing during + the investment. + + At the Brazos I lost my servant Owen. He found he could get much + better wages than I had agreed to give him, and in consequence + thereof he deserted me on the day I left, and I had not time to + recover him. I shall find some difficulty in procuring a good + servant here. + + I was very thankful that you wrote father and Mary. I wish you to + keep up some little correspondence with them during my absence. They + will always be glad to hear from you. My father has had his full + share of sorrow, and has suffered as much as most men I know. I have + never had so true and so disinterested a friend as he. He is + absorbed in his children, and, though he expresses little, he feels + much. His daughters have left him one by one, and but one is left. I + feel very sad when I think of him. I trust that Mary will be spared + to him for many years. + + We hope to get on shore to-morrow, but as a strong norther has been + blowing since last evening, and is not yet entirely abated, it is + possible we may not land till Tuesday. + + I shall keep this letter open till the last moment. The mail is + forwarded by vessels sailing to New Orleans, and is not very + regular. + + Thursday morning, March 18. We reached the anchorage off the island + of Sacrificios on Sunday, and did not get on shore till last evening + (Wednesday). We found the headquarters of General Scott some half a + mile from the place of landing. On our way thither we met Colonel + Totten and Captain Lee going out of camp on a reconnoissance. + + The camp occupies a circuit of some eight or ten miles. We find + every one in high spirits. The fact is considered unquestioned that + General Taylor has utterly defeated Santa Anna and driven him across + the desert. I meet many friends in camp. + + Sunday, March 21. I have now been on shore four days. We are busily + employed on the works preparatory to opening our fire on the place. + Everything is going on finely. My duties interest me much. The + climate is very fine. The colonel and his officers form one mess, + and we have a pleasant time. Don't believe the many idle reports in + regard to losses. Thus far we have lost only one man. The army is in + fine spirits. + + Love to every one of my friends, my dear children, and you, my dear + Margaret. I long to embrace you. I shall write again by next mail. + + Your affectionate + ISAAC. + + + + + CHAPTER VIII + + VERA CRUZ.--CERRO GORDO + + +Vera Cruz, an old Spanish walled town on the Gulf of Mexico, with a +population of 12,000, was situated on a sandy plain, which, extending +back from the town, was broken by many sand-hills and ridges, and +covered in great part with dense chapparal. On the land side a strong +line of masonry works encircled the city from Fort Conception on the +beach above, or north of, to Fort Santiago below it; while on the sea +side the castle of San Juan de Ulloa, seated on an island a thousand +yards in advance of the town, commanded all approaches with 128 heavy +guns, and made the sea front doubly secure. + +The American army landed unopposed on March 9, 1847, on the beach a few +miles south of the town; during the next four days extended lines of +investment completely around the doomed city on the land side, and, +having with great labor and some interruption from northers landed the +heavy siege-guns, mortars, and material for the bombardment, commenced +the batteries on the 18th, the second day after the young engineer +officers reached the scene of action. They were at once set to work +reconnoitring the ground and the enemy's works by day, and laying out +the batteries and superintending the working parties by night. + +Lieutenant Stevens threw himself into this work with even more than his +accustomed zeal. On one of his daring reconnoissances the horse he +rode--a powerful and headstrong animal loaned him by his friend, +Lieutenant Tower--took the bit in his teeth and bolted directly for the +enemy's lines. Finding it impossible to stop or control the frantic +steed, Lieutenant Stevens, throwing his whole strength on one rein, +managed to make him swerve towards the base of a sand-hill, where he +threw himself from the saddle, escaping injury on the soft ground, while +the runaway continued his course to the very walls of the city. + +The batteries were placed midway between the lines of investment and the +city, and about 900 yards from the walls. Lieutenant Stevens was +indefatigable in searching out the best routes for the boyaux, or +covered ways, to enable the troops to pass to and from the batteries +without loss from the enemy's fire. The broken sand-hills and dense +chapparal rendered this a difficult and laborious task; and in forcing +his way through these thorny and almost impenetrable thickets his hands +were so badly torn, and perhaps poisoned, that for several days he was +obliged to have them bandaged with poultices of prickly pear. The route +which he thus looked out was adopted, and the construction of the +covered way was placed under his charge, with large working parties, for +several nights, until completed. His experiences are best told in his +own words. The independence, almost insubordination, of the new +volunteers is simply the common experience with citizen soldiery fresh +from home, but which they soon outgrow under good officers in a few +months' campaigning. + +Friday, March 18. At two A.M. Lieutenants Mason, Stevens, and Tower +entered the trenches and relieved Captain Lee and Lieutenants Beauregard +and McClellan. No workers or guards present, save twelve sappers, till +four o'clock. Lieutenant Mason at Battery 2. Lieutenant Stevens at +Battery 1. Lieutenant Tower in communication leading to cemetery. +Colonel Scott in command of the working party. A company of the 8th +infantry, under command of Lieutenants Jordan and Pitcher, in Battery 1. +About seven o'clock Lieutenant Foster relieved Lieutenant Tower, who +returned to camp to supervise construction of powder magazines. At half +past twelve Lieutenant Stevens ordered to examine the infantry +communication, reconnoitred on the previous day, in order to commence +the trenches at night with a working party. + +At two P.M. Captain Sanders on the naval battery. Lieutenants Stevens +and Smith on the right were on duty. The naval battery laid out during +the day by Captain Lee. Lieutenant Smith took particular charge of +Batteries 3 and 4, and the remainder of the communication to Battery 1, +with a fatigue party under Major Graham; Lieutenant Stevens, of the +boyau of communication from camp to batteries with a fatigue party of +400 volunteers, New Yorkers and Pennsylvanians. Did not report at beach +till nine P.M. Arrived on the ground at ten P.M. Two hours occupied in +laying out the boyau with a cord and getting the whole force at work. +Whilst Lieutenant Stevens was absent in discharge of his duties of +supervision at the batteries and trenches under the particular charge of +Lieutenant Smith, the volunteers abandoned their work and returned to +camp, excepting a small force of fifty men on the left of the large +sand-hill, in rear of which the communication passed. + +Saturday, March 19. About dark a large force of 400 men reported at the +old cemetery as a fatigue party in the boyau under the charge of +Lieutenant Stevens,--four companies of regulars, Brooks and Shackleford, +2d artillery; Lieutenant Ernst, 6th infantry; Lieutenant Rodgers, 2d +dragoons,--the whole under the command of Captain De Hart,--and four +companies of volunteers, Pennsylvanians. + +The regulars employed on communication from Battery 1 to Battery 2, on +parapet to the right of Battery 2, and on the trench from the upper end +of the valley to the first hollow of the natural trench leading through +the long ridge in rear of the batteries, the volunteers on the remaining +part of the boyaux. The regulars made their trench practicable. The +volunteers could not be made to work with the most strenuous exertions +on the part of the officers. Some were drunk and all sleepy. They +complained of being tired and hungry. Some delay occurred throughout the +works in consequence of a musketry fire from the trenches. Lieutenant +Mason in charge of a working party at the batteries. + +Monday, March 22. The boyaux of communication made practicable and safe +to-day, although not sufficiently commodious; a fatigue party of 200 men +reporting to Lieutenant Stevens, and commencing work at five A.M.; two +companies regulars of 2d artillery, Captain McKensie and Lieutenant +Hardcastle, Captain Kendrick; and two of marines, Lieutenant Adams. + +This party worked with extraordinary vigor till three o'clock, all the +men in the trenches all the time, the officers giving their whole energy +to supervising the men; Captain McKensie, in command of the working +party, exhibiting great energy and efficiency. The day was quite warm, +and an immense amount of work done. Lieutenant Mason at the batteries +with fatigue party under the command of Captain Swartwout. + +Tuesday, March 23. A fatigue party of 200 men reported to Lieutenant +Stevens, and commenced work in the boyaux at 9-1/2 A.M., working with +great vigor till dark, all the men constantly at work, and made the +boyaux very safe and commodious,--two companies regulars, Captain E.W. +Smith and Lieutenant Bissel, 5th infantry, two companies marines. + +NOTE. More work is done by day than by night under fire. The working +parties by day did at least double the work per man of the working +parties by night. A severe sand-storm blowing all day and night. + +Lieutenant Stevens reported the completion of the boyaux to the chief +engineer at 8-1/2 P.M., and, after an hour's rest, at his request +returned to the trenches and assisted Lieutenant Mason till relieved at +four o'clock in the morning. + +Thursday, March 25. Lieutenants Mason and Stevens relieved the engineer +officers on the right at four A.M. Great exertions were made at Battery +No. 4, which opened its fire at eight A.M. The fatigue party in the +trenches, Alabama volunteers, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel +Earle, remarkably fearless and efficient. One sapper and two volunteers +placed at each embrasure to repair it after every discharge. By their +courage and exertions, the fire of the battery was not obstructed during +the day. Lieutenant Mason made three reconnoissances of the enemy's +works, accompanied twice by Lieutenant Stevens. Two companies of the 1st +artillery served the guns, Captain Magruder and Lieutenant Haskin; Major +L. Whitney in command of the force serving the batteries. + +At eleven A.M. Captain Lee commenced establishing a new mortar battery +on the left of No. 1. + +Saturday, March 27. A severe norther raging yesterday made great ravages +in the works that were repaired to-day. Lieutenants Mason and Stevens in +the trenches at four A.M. A new mortar battery commenced yesterday +nearly finished to-day, under the particular direction of Lieutenant +Stevens, with a working party of one company of the 4th infantry under +the command of Lieutenant Lincoln. + +Sunday, March 28. A partial survey of the trenches made by Lieutenants +Beauregard, Stevens, and Tower. + + CAMP WASHINGTON (three miles from VERA CRUZ), + March 27, 1847. + + MY DEAREST MARGARET,--I have now the unspeakable satisfaction of + telling you that both the city and the castle have capitulated after + a bombardment of rather less than four days, and from the ninth day + of opening the trenches, and with a loss on our side of less than + forty in killed and wounded. I will tell you what your poor + subaltern of a husband has had to do in this matter. On Thursday, + March 18, I made a reconnoissance with Mason to determine the + position of a road for wagons, and of a covered communication for + infantry. On Friday morning, March 19, I left camp at two in the + morning, and was kept hard at work till four the next morning in + constructing a battery and opening the communications thereto. + During the course of this operation the enemy hurled at us some two + hundred round-shot and shells. None came very near me. I had to + encourage the men at their work, and had no time to attend to my + fears. + + VERA CRUZ, April 3. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--It is now Saturday, and we have been in possession + of the city one week. Great destruction was spread throughout the + city by our shells. In the portion next to our batteries a shell + entered every house, and almost each room of every house, in + consequence of which many inoffensive people were killed. Vera Cruz + is a miserable, dirty place; the streets are full of filth, and + there are great numbers of poor people. Many families still keep + their doors closed, though scarcely an outrage has been committed in + the city. The people, though miserably poor, are very courteous and + mild in their general deportment. Ever since our entrance into the + city, the poor have been fed each day from our government stores, + and every exertion is made to protect the whole city in its rights. + + General Worth is governor of the city. The weather is rather warm, + and we find mosquitoes, fleas, etc., troublesome. The city, though + sorry in its sunlight aspect, is remarkably picturesque by + moonlight. The style of architecture is of the Moorish character, + abounding in domes and highly wrought work. I have several times + wandered through the deserted streets of the city by night, filled + with admiration of the gorgeous and Oriental aspect of the scene. It + surpasses anything I ever saw. My health is very fine. + + VERA CRUZ, April 10. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--We are now preparing to march into the interior, + and shall probably leave in a day or two. One half of the army are + already on their way. We hope to enter the City of Mexico, and to + contemplate the wonders of the capital, in one month. In the + reduction of the city we have had fortune on our side. The grossest + supineness prevailed in the Mexican ranks, though at times they + awoke from their slumbers and poured into our midst well-directed + fires of artillery. Our loss is very little. John R. Minton, a most + gallant soldier, was killed on the first day of opening our fires. + He was universally esteemed, and I had made his acquaintance on the + first day of landing. He died for his country, before his country's + gratitude for gallant services at Monterey had been communicated in + the shape of a brevet. + + The burden of the day came with great weight on the officers of + engineers. It is the universal sentiment of the army that they did + their duty. We see it in the individual deportment of every officer + with whom we are associated on duty. We had exciting times. Friends + whom I had not seen since I left West Point, I shook for the first + time warmly by the hand under the heavy fire of the enemy's + batteries. I met Haskin and Callender in such a conjuncture. There + was not the least shrinking from duty, but each one stood up + manfully to his task and did his whole duty; we all worked hard. The + engineers failed in no part of their duty, and the consequence was + that the loss of human life was comparatively trifling. I never + worked so hard in my life. It was our first experience in the field, + and I think we have fulfilled the expectations of the general and of + our immediate chief (Colonel Totten). + + I have already written you in relation to the city. We all long to + leave so much moonlight magnificence and sunlight squalidity, and + breathe the pure mountain air of Jalapa and Perote. Our troops are + yet comparatively healthy. The sickly season will not come upon us + for a month. Up in the mountains it is the most salubrious and + delightful climate of the New World. Our troops conduct themselves + with remarkable propriety. Very few cases have occurred of excesses + of any kind, and all such are punished with extreme severity. Mason + is in fine health, and is doing, as was to be expected, good + service. All our officers are superior men, and we stand by each + other like a band of brothers. + + I have secured a beautiful animal in the way of a horse, docile as a + kitten and very intelligent. He has a beautiful eye and head, and + will follow me wherever I go. I intend to bring him home with me. I + have also a very good servant. He is an old soldier. I have just + returned from a ride to our old camp. There is a fine hard beach all + the way, which reminds me of the beach at Newport. My little horse + is very fleet, and carried me over the beach in very rapid style. + How would Hazard be delighted to see him stretch out! You must tell + my little Hazard about my horse. When I come home he shall ride him + every day. They would soon be fast friends, I doubt not. + + Have I told you that we are living in the government palace? At + first we took our meals at the public house, but so much dirt and + filth was to be met with everywhere that we formed a mess, and live + in our own rooms. Our mess is now reduced to four, Major Smith, + Captain Lee, Mason, and myself. There is a fine vegetable market + close by, where we can provide ourselves; and as for meats, we have + a barrel of hams. This morning I went to the market and observed + quite a variety of tropical fruits; tomatoes, sweet potatoes, + pineapples, plantains, lettuce, the Mexican squash, are in great + abundance. + + VERA CRUZ, April 11. + + MY DEAR FATHER,--We are now in the midst of our arrangements to + march into the interior, two divisions of the army (Twiggs and + Patterson) having already marched. The greatest difficulty is on + account of transportation. Vera Cruz is still healthy, and there is + no natural reason why it should not be as salubrious as New Orleans. + Its filth and nastiness is almost beyond belief, and is the + efficient cause of its great sickliness in summer. Our authorities + are now making every exertion to cleanse the city. Our troops behave + well. Some few excesses have been committed, and these are punished + with exemplary severity. General Scott has instituted military + commissions to try a large class of offenses that, in an enemy's + country, cannot be reached under the articles of war, and martial + law has been proclaimed as a supplemental code. Yesterday a negro + was hanged outside the city walls for committing rape upon a Mexican + woman. + + We hope that peace will be established in the course of the summer. + At all events, General Scott will find no difficulty in entering the + City of Mexico. Our own troops, regulars and volunteers, are in a + high state of discipline, and pant for an opportunity to signalize + themselves. The Mexican troops have been demoralized by many + successive defeats, and cannot, man to man, cope with our own. They + are decidedly inferior, both in the men and the organization. In + such cases numbers are of little account. All experience shows that + resolution, courage, and enterprise, qualities possessed by our + troops in an eminent degree, will overcome any tumultuous rabble. I + verily believe that our little army of twelve thousand men is able + to defeat any body of Mexicans, however large. + + You know the papers have been full of the complaints of the sappers + and miners, or engineer soldiers. These men I am on duty with every + day. They are the pride of the whole army, confessedly the best + soldiers in the army. I never saw so superior a company of soldiers, + Americans all, young men, having character, zeal, and intelligence, + proud of their duties and of their position, perfectly subordinate, + and cheerful in their obedience. I personally know almost every man + of the sappers and miners. During the investment and siege of Vera + Cruz they exhibited an extraordinary gallantry, and were all placed + in the position of non-commissioned officers. Each man had direction + of a working party, and in the execution of that duty they retained + their arms and gave directions to the men. + +[Illustration: ROUTE, VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO] + +Lieutenant Stevens took great interest in the engineer company, so +largely the result of his recommendations and exertions. His diary of +the march inland commences the next day. + + March 29. The army made its entrance into the city this day at ten + o'clock, and the general headquarters were established in the main + plaza. General Worth was appointed governor of the city. The + engineer company, although it had preëminently distinguished itself + for gallantry and general conduct throughout the whole operation of + the investment and siege, had no place assigned to it in the + ceremonies of either the surrender or the entrance. + + Colonel Totten sailed on the Princeton to the States as bearer of + dispatches, and with the view of resuming his position at the head + of the department, leaving Major John L. Smith in command. + Lieutenant Stevens was this day directed to assume the duties of + adjutant, and a sapper was detailed to assist him. + + March 30. Lieutenants Stevens, Tower, and Foster, with a detachment + of twelve sappers, commenced the survey of the defenses of the city + and castle. Lieutenant Mason was temporarily assigned to duty with + General Quitman on an expedition to Alvarado. + + Monday, April 12. The engineers left Vera Cruz with the general + staff at five P.M., and reached Vigara, three miles distant, where + they encamped for the night. Here a little stream flows into the + sea, over which is an arched bridge of masonry, somewhat out of + repair. + + I found myself exceedingly exhausted in consequence of my exertions + before leaving the city in getting wagons for the baggage and train + of the engineer company, and in attending to turning in the baggage + of the engineer staff. + + Tuesday, April 13. We started early, and found the road as far as + Santa Fé exceedingly sandy and difficult for carriages. Santa Fé is + situated in the midst of a prairie affording tolerable pasture for + cattle, and has the honor of municipal regulation in the shape of + an alcalde. There are some twenty little houses of trelliswork at + this place. At the river San Juan, six miles from Santa Fé and + twelve from Vigara, over which is thrown a fine bridge of masonry + with a long causeway at its western extremity, we halted and dined. + Before leaving, Worth's advance, consisting of Duncan's battery and + Lieutenant-Colonel C.F. Smith's light companies, reached the San + Juan, where they encamped for the night. Resuming our march at three + P.M., we pushed forward over at times a somewhat rough and hilly + road, and at other points easy and practicable, till we reached our + camping ground for the night, the Talome River, having a one-arch + bridge. + + Wednesday, April 14. Resuming our march early in the morning, we + reached the National Bridge at about ten A.M., distant eight miles + from our encampment, after making a halt of an hour at Paso de + Obejas (distant two and one half miles from Talome), where we met a + wagon train. There is a considerable village at this river. + + On leaving the village, the road winds its way to the top of a very + high hill, where there is an inspiring view of the surrounding + country. Whilst the general was halting at the village, I rode to + the top of the hill to take a view. At some distance to the south I + could see a small band of rancheros watching the movements of our + party. The National Bridge is a model of the kind, possessing much + architectural beauty, and impressing the mind of the beholder that + an iron and a lofty race had done this work in the solitudes of the + mountain pass. The scenery is of the most picturesque and imposing + character. The road, previous to reaching the bridge, winds round a + bold tongue of land, on the edge and apex of which a little fort had + been built. From the first view of the pass, the road descends the + side of a steep hill, constructed originally with great care, due + attention having been paid to both curves and grades. On passing the + bridge, on the left is a bold promontory, and the little fort and + the open village at the other extremity of the bridge. On the right + and downward side the river flows through a deep ravine, on either + side of which perpendicular columns of rock rise hundreds of feet. + The current gently flowed over a rocky bed, and was at points + fordable. A thunderstorm in this mountain pass, the swollen stream + rushing impetuously to the sea, must be terrific. After halting two + hours at the National Bridge, we pushed on to the Plano del Rio, the + advance of the army. This was a difficult march of thirteen miles, + with no water on the road for our horses. At some four miles from + the bridge we reached a causeway, built with care, and which, + leading over a little depression at its foot, is conducted almost to + the top of a hill on the other side. On our way we met parties from + camp searching the country for beef. + + We reached the Plano del Rio at about five o'clock, and after + remaining about an hour with Major Smith and Captain Lee, I + accompanied Lieutenant Tower on a reconnoissance. We proceeded on + the Jalapa road some three miles and a half, until we came in view + of Battery 4 on the left of the road. Then, returning a short + distance, we proceeded some distance on a path leading from the road + till we came in view of the same battery, and one farther to the + left, No. 3. From an examination of a sketch of Lieutenant Tower, + exhibiting the results of all the reconnoissances since the arrival + of General Twiggs, there could be little doubt that the proper mode + of attack was to the right, so as to turn the enemy's works and + compel them to lay down their arms. The reconnoissances were not, + however, complete, and the general, after informing himself of the + position as far as it had been ascertained, determined that the + reconnoissances should be extended. I found a bath in the river most + delightful and refreshing after the severe labors of the day. + + Thursday, April 15. The reconnoissances of the whole position were + continued to-day; Captain Lee, with Mason, Beauregard, and myself, + escorted by Major Sumner on the right, Tower on the front. On + reaching the point of the road before coming in view of Battery 4, I + was informed by Bowman, a wagon-master of Twiggs's division, that on + the other side of the river there was a practicable trail leading to + the river some eight miles above the bridge, and where would + probably be found a practicable ford. After accompanying Captain Lee + in his reconnoissance to a high hill about seven hundred yards from + the Cerro Gordo, the key of the enemy's position, and getting a full + view of it and of the ravines, valleys, etc., to the right, I + returned home with a guide, and reported the statement of Bowman to + Major Smith. He was then starting with an escort to examine the + enemy's works from the left bank of the river, with the view of + establishing enfilading batteries against them. I also accompanied + him; and after he had made his examinations, I requested permission + to continue farther up, with a portion of the escort, till I could + get a better view of the enemy's rear. A body of four hundred + cavalry having been observed only about four miles up the river + bank, Major Smith felt constrained to refuse my request. On + returning from the reconnoissance I explained very fully my general + views in reference to the proper mode of conducting the + reconnoissances of the position, and that though thus far particular + points had been carefully examined, and the engineer officers had + been very industrious, yet the reconnoissances had been undertaken + on too limited a scale, and did not cover the whole of the position. + The dragoons are admirable for extensive reconnoissances, yet no + attempt has been made to determine the practicability and even the + existence of certain routes, on both the right and left, which are + said to obtain; that branching from the Jalapa road, a little this + side of the National Bridge, joined it again a short distance before + reaching Jalapa. Either of these routes, pursued by Worth's column, + would have effectually turned the position of the Cerro Gordo. + Moreover, the reconnoissance on the right bank of the river had not + been extended so as to get a view of the rear of the Cerro Gordo; + and from the circumstance that four hundred lancers were on the + right river bank, and in position about four miles above the bridge, + the inference was almost conclusive that there was a practicable + ford leading to the position in rear of the Cerro Gordo, and which + the lancers were thrown out to cover. It was also suggested that a + spirited reconnoissance in that direction would settle two essential + questions, essential to properly combining the plan of attack,--1, + Whether there was not a practicable ford, by means of which the + enemy could escape, and at which point a column of attack might be + directed against him; 2, Whether the main body, or a considerable + portion thereof, might not be _en masse_ in rear of the position of + the Cerro Gordo hill, and thus not be cut off by the flank movement + to the right, unless extended to a wider circuit than was intended. + This reconnoissance was pressed earnestly as essential, to get + correct information in regard to the intentions and position of the + enemy. + + Friday, April 16. The reconnoissance I had recommended was ordered + by General Scott on the requisition of Major Smith, and fifty + dragoons, under the command of Lieutenant Steele, were placed at my + disposal. With Bowman as guide, we started about half past eight + o'clock, and, after crossing both branches of the river and + ascending to the ranch on the hill, we struck into a broad trail, + perfectly practicable for horses and field artillery, and after + pursuing our way some two and three quarter miles, came to a trail + nearly at right angles, and which Bowman represented as six miles + distant. Leaving the escort here with Steele, Bowman, and a beef + contractor, we continued in a direct course nearly a mile to some + ranches, where we took a man and boy to get information. On our + return we proceeded with the whole escort on the perpendicular trail + to another ranch, about half a mile distant, and finally to the + river supposed by Bowman to be the main stream. We found it simply a + tributary to the stream flowing under the first bridge, and the + descent to the ravine through which it flowed was scarcely + practicable for a mounted horseman. Leaving a small escort at the + ravine, the main body returning to the ranch, with Bowman I pushed + forward up the other side of the ravine, and proceeded about half a + mile, and nearly to the foot of a spur that led obliquely to the + main branch and in a direction a little beyond the Cerro Gordo. + After examining the routes and the configuration of the country, I + became satisfied that the reconnoissance could not be pushed farther + in this direction to any practicable result, but that the best + course would be to cross the spur at a depression and extend the + reconnoissance down the other side to the river. On my return to the + ranch, whilst proceeding at an easy pace, I found that an old + rupture which had been cured fifteen years had broken out, and + before I reached the ranch I began to suffer the most excruciating + pain. The further continuance of the reconnoissance was abandoned, + and I returned to camp, a distance of four miles, suffering very + great pain. First Dr. Brown attended me, and I was soon relieved of + pain by applying cold water. Dr. Tripler applied a very fine truss, + and in the course of the evening I felt perfectly comfortable. + [Illustration: BATTLE OF CERRO GORDO] + + Saturday, April 17. This day I remained in camp, able to move about + only a little and with great care. In the movement of General Twiggs + to his position in order of battle, he was discovered, and a + spirited combat ensued, which resulted in dislodging the enemy from + a hill seven hundred yards from the Cerro Gordo, and upon which a + battery of one 24-pounder and two 26-pounder howitzers was put in + position during the night. + + Sunday, April 18. As determined on yesterday, the position of the + enemy was attacked to-day and, after a most brilliant conflict, the + Cerro Gordo was stormed by the brigade of Colonel Harney, the + enemy's line of retreat on the Jalapa cut off by Shields's brigade + of volunteers and Riley's brigade of regulars. A large portion of + the enemy made their escape on the Jalapa road, and across the river + at the ford before alluded to. Pillow made an attack in front, but + failed in consequence of its being made prematurely, with great + precipitation, without order in the assaulting columns, and before + the supporting columns were in position, and at the wrong point, + viz., in a ravine swept by the fire of two batteries, and with + serious impediments in the way of abattis and felled trees. This + attack, both as to time and as to direction, was earnestly + remonstrated against by the engineer officer directing the attack, + by the personal staff of the general, and by Colonel Campbell, + second in command. Had the attack been made on the enemy's extreme + right, the true point of attack, and which was supposed to be the + point determined upon by the general until he announced a different + intention on arriving on the ground, it would have succeeded. It was + fortunate the attack failed. It kept the garrisons of the batteries + in their places and increased the number of prisoners. Shields + behaved most gallantly in his advance to the Jalapa road, and was + severely--supposed at the time mortally--wounded by a grapeshot + that passed through his body. His advance captured Santa Anna's + carriage. Worth's division was not engaged, acting simply as a + reserve. + + The storming of the Cerro Gordo was one of the most brilliant things + on record. Whilst it was in progress, four thousand of the enemy + were put in motion to turn their flanks, but the Cerro Gordo falling + into our hands before they became engaged, they took ignominiously + to flight. So certain was Harney that such would be the effect, when + two thousand troops were reported to him as threatening each flank, + he simply gave the order to extend to the right and left, and kept + pushing up, and after a sharp conflict drove the enemy from the + breastworks and down the hill. + + The retreat of the enemy was a perfect rout. A portion in small + bodies retreated on the Jalapa road. Many troops fled to the + chapparal, making their escape through almost impracticable paths. + Santa Anna himself made his escape with a few attendants across the + river and at the ford, whose existence was not verified till after + the battle in consequence of the serious injury that occurred to me, + preventing my extending the reconnoissance as I contemplated. + Ampudia with a few officers retreated on the Jalapa road, and very + nearly fell into our hands. + + Twiggs's division was pushed forward hotly in pursuit, and encamped + at Encerro, fourteen miles distant, the night of the battle, and + reached Jalapa the next day. He was closely followed by the + volunteer division, General Patterson assuming command of the whole. + + Worth returned to camp with the general and his staff. + + I was on my back a portion of the day, and was just able to drag + about camp. + + CAMP NEAR CERRO GORDO, Sunday, + April 15, 1847, 5 P.M. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--I have glorious news to tell you. This day we had + a hard-fought battle at this place, the first great mountain pass on + the highway from Vera Cruz to Mexico. The result is a most decisive + victory, resulting in the capture of six thousand Mexicans, and the + loss on our part of about three hundred killed and wounded. General + Twiggs is now in hot pursuit of Santa Anna, who was present in + command, and his remnant of five or six thousand men. He will, we + trust, enter Jalapa to-night, fifteen miles distant. His division of + somewhat less than three thousand men did the hard work, and will of + course have the highest award of praise. + + As for your poor husband, his was the part to stay in camp. Two days + since I conducted a reconnoissance on the left of the enemy's line + over very difficult ground, with fifty dragoons to support me. I + rode hard through the morning, and about three in the afternoon an + old rupture in the groin, which troubled me when a boy from ten to + fourteen years of age, broke out again after a perfect cure of + fifteen years. So excruciating was the pain that it required the + greatest exertion to get to camp, four miles distant, on my horse. + Fortunately one of the best physicians in the army, Dr. Tripler, was + able to attend upon me, and most fortunate of all he had a solitary + truss of the best workmanship, which just fitted me. Dr. Tripler has + prescribed the utmost quietude, has forbidden all excitement, and + especially all riding on horseback. I had already received the + appointment of adjutant of engineers, and my staff duties I can + still attend to. All my friends express great sympathy for my + misfortune. General Scott expressed himself in terms that won my + heart. He remarked, "You engineers are too daring. You require to be + held back. My young friend, I almost cried when I heard of your + mishap." I have made a great many friends since I joined the army. + It may be well that I have received this check. Ever since I joined + the army, I have been too impetuous, too headstrong. I have made + great physical exertion. Now I am obliged to rein in the power of + muscles, in which I do not excell, and have equal opportunities to + develop the mental as before I became incapacitated. I shall have + charge of the train of the engineers, which is carried in quite a + number of wagons, and shall therefore be always able to ride in a + wagon. My horse is one of the finest animals in the army, and is a + most fast, easy, and beautiful walker, and he will therefore be no + impediment to my riding on horseback. + + All my friends of the engineers did well. Captain Lee has won golden + opinions. Mason is rising rapidly in the esteem of all. He is one of + the most disinterested as well as one of the most talented men in + the army. If I have a perfectly devoted friend in the whole army, it + is Mason. He makes no professions; he is always true to himself and + his views of right, but I have his friendship and he has mine. My + old chum Tower did splendidly. He is a man of great powers of mind + and determined energy of character. He will probably be brevetted + for his services at this place and at Vera Cruz. + + To-morrow the whole army resumes its onward march. In one day we + shall enter Jalapa. General Scott is winning golden opinions. He is + prodigiously popular with the volunteers, and the whole army has + confidence in him. During the whole continuance of the battle to-day + he was much exposed. + + The movement which resulted in the great victory of to-day was to + the right and rear of the enemy, and the success of it hinged on the + taking of a little work on the top of an almost inaccessible hill. + The famous Colonel Harney of the dragoons led the forlorn hope in + the attack of this position, and was closely followed by the 3d and + 7th infantry. Up rushed our troops, amidst the most deafening cheers + from the whole line. Steadily advanced the stars and stripes to the + very Mexican standard floating from the Mexican work. For one moment + in the most difficult point our flag disappeared; again it rose, and + was immediately planted in triumph on the top of the hill. In four + weeks we shall most certainly be in the City of Mexico, unless + previously the Mexicans make overtures of peace. + + My dear wife, do not feel anxious for me. I have the means, and + shall take care of my health. My hopes of distinction have in a + measure vanished, but still I have the satisfaction that I can be + highly useful. My general health is very good. Remember me to Mary + and my dear children, to Judge Peabody, and all my friends. + + Your affectionate husband, + ISAAC. + + + + + CHAPTER IX + + JALAPA.--PUEBLA + + +Monday, April 19. This was a lazy day in camp, the general and his staff +being occupied with the charge of the prisoners, and preparing the +proper dispatches. It was determined to release all the prisoners and +officers on parole. Thus 2700 men (and 200 having escaped the previous +day whilst coming into camp, and before they had reached the charge of +General Worth) were sent, with rations to subsist them on their way +home, to and beyond Jalapa. La Vega, one of the prisoners, announced his +intention not to accept his parole, but to go to the United States. The +surgeons, moreover, were most actively engaged in caring for the +wounded. The wounds of the men generally were slight, and all the +disabled were cheerful and in high spirits. The wounds of the Mexicans +were bad, and many of their dead were shot in the head. General Shields, +to the surprise of all, still survived, was in excellent spirits, and +did not doubt that he would get well. + +At half past one the general-in-chief and his staff, with an escort of +dragoons, started for Jalapa, and passed the night at Encerro, the +residence of Santa Anna. Worth, who marched from the Plano del Rio in +the morning, reached Jalapa the same night. On the road I saw several +dead, disfigured with horrible wounds. I was obliged to ride in a wagon, +the surgeon having forbidden my riding on horseback. The country seat of +Santa Anna is delightfully situated in the midst of a rolling country, +abounding in herds of cattle, and all the fruits of both tropics. His +house is of two stories, the first being appropriated to kitchens, +store-rooms, etc., and the second to the family. Several rooms were well +furnished, and were garnished with paintings on historical subjects, for +the most part Mexican and Spanish. We saw several of his wooden legs. + +Tuesday, April 20. The general and staff reached Jalapa about eleven +A.M., after a most beautiful ride of eight miles. Along the road were to +be observed the Mexican troops in little groups of two or three, +accompanied by their women, of whom there were many at their camp at the +Cerro Gordo. I ventured to try my horse, and found for the time being +less inconvenience than in the wagon. The appearance of the country, +rolling and green, was very inviting. As we approached the city, the +rear of Worth's wagons was in the road, the men and mules almost +entirely exhausted by the long march of yesterday. Major Smith, in +consequence of injuries resulting from riding on horseback, was obliged +to ride, and accompanied Major Sumner (wounded in the conflict of the +17th inst.) in the carriage of Santa Anna. On reaching the city I had +the pleasure of meeting Captain Lee, Lieutenant Beauregard, and +Lieutenants Smith and McClellan of the engineer company, who were in the +advance with Twiggs. Quarters were assigned Major Smith and myself in +the governor's house, the headquarters of General Scott. + +The same afternoon General Worth was pushed forward in the advance, +Captain Lee, Lieutenants Mason and Tower, and the engineer company +accompanying him. It was reported that La Hoya and Perote had been +abandoned, and that a body of three or four thousand lancers was on the +route to Puebla. + +Wednesday, April 21. I was busily engaged to-day in organizing the +train of the engineer company, the mules having proved very poor on the +route from Plano del Rio, and many of the animals being entirely +unserviceable. On requisition from the senior engineer, the general +directed that a train of eight wagons should be furnished by the +quartermaster at Vera Cruz to bring up the engineer train that remained, +and as many of the engineer implements as practicable. Lieutenant +Foster, in the afternoon, with the engineer train that had come up from +the Plano del Rio, started to join his company at Perote. Sapper Noyes +went to Vera Cruz in the train of Friday morning to point out to the +quartermaster the articles that were needed. + +Thursday to Saturday, April 22-24. Nothing especial occurred on these +days. I have been principally engaged whilst at my leisure in going +about the town, observing the people and their customs. + +Sunday, April 25. This day I attended high mass in the cathedral. The +church was decorated considerably, though with little taste. There were +several figures of the Virgin Mary. The people seemed attentive to the +various ceremonies, and were scrupulous in observing the prescribed +forms. Not many of the higher classes were present. Some few elegant and +well-dressed ladies were to be seen. + +Monday to Thursday, April 26-29. During these days I have been +collecting facts in relation to the battle of Cerro Gordo, with the view +of making a general map and digesting a connected military narrative. In +consequence of all the officers, except Lieutenant Beauregard and +myself, having gone to Perote, there were no means of making an accurate +survey of the positions, or of getting sketches of the various +reconnoissances, to form a general plan. The only sketch forwarded from +Perote was one by Lieutenant Tower. I have met during these days +several old friends, particularly Tilden and Haskin. Canby I have seen +much of. + +April 30. This day I was busily occupied in preparing a memoir on the +proper mode of conducting the war, in case Mexico shall pursue the +guerrilla system, and obstinately refuse to listen to terms of +accommodation. I find great difficulty in procuring information as to +routes, etc. The weather in Jalapa is delightful. For the past four days +copious showers towards evening have exercised the most healthful and +invigorating influence upon the troops here. Since the arrival of +headquarters on Tuesday, April 20, there has been a remarkable +equableness of temperature. Jalapa is the very Eden of Mexico, and its +picturesque situation in the very bosom of the mountains is nowhere +surpassed. Such is the perfect amenity and smiling aspect of nature at +this favored spot, that all the seasons of the year meet together. All +the days of the year are both seedtime and harvest. The place is +singularly beautiful in its perennial bloom, and in the flowers and +gardens of its people. They seem to be a happy, easy race, and many of +the people are of refinement and intelligence. + +There are indications in the suburbs of Jalapa of more populousness and +wealth than now obtain, as in the wells of masonry to be seen, fifty +feet and more in depth, etc. The snowy peak of Orizaba, fifteen thousand +feet above the sea, is to be seen far above the clouds, which at times +hang over its base. + + JALAPA, Thursday, April 22, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--We entered this beautiful city, fragrant with + flowers and shrubbery, at eleven o'clock Tuesday morning. Jalapa and + the surrounding country is the Eden of Mexico. For many miles the + country is in the highest state of cultivation. There is a perennial + bloom. At this very moment all the fruits and every species of + vegetation are to be seen in all their stages. On the same tree are + seen blossoms and fruit. In the same field we observe grain and + corn just springing from the seed, and we see it ready for the + sickle. The market abounds in oranges, bananas, peppers, lettuce, + cabbages, cauliflower, onions, lemons, peas (green), beans, + tomatoes, etc. The refinement and cultivation of the people are to + be seen in their taste for flowers. At all points the most beautiful + flowers strike your eye. All the houses of the lower classes, as + well as of the higher, have gardens of flowers in rear. As you pass + through the street you every moment get glimpses of fountains and + shrubbery. Jalapa is more than Capua of old. It is Capua with all + its beauty and serenity, but without its _abandon_. The people are + refined, courteous, intelligent, and upright. Here we shall remain + for some ten days or a fortnight, to organize the campaign, and + prepare for the march to Mexico. Jalapa will be the great base of + operations. + + We left the Plano del Rio on Monday. I rode on a wagon, and reached + Encerro, the hacienda of Santa Anna, a distance of fourteen miles, + the same evening. The general and his staff passed the night here. + It is beautifully situated on a commanding hill, with ample + outbuildings, an artificial pond for bathing, etc., and a paved road + branching from the main Jalapa road. The hacienda of two stories was + elegantly furnished on the second floor, the first floor being + appropriated to kitchens, store-rooms, etc. We saw several of Santa + Anna's wooden legs. General Scott gave us in the evening a nice + supper with wine. + + I rode on Tuesday from Encerro to Jalapa on my horse, and found it + about as comfortable as a wagon. The distance was about eight miles. + The morning was beautiful and the scenery enchanting. On reaching + the city we found some seven or eight thousand of our troops under + arms. For the first time since Cortez the hostile feet of a foreign + race trod its pavements. The most perfect tranquillity prevailed. + The people are well treated, receive good prices for all they wish + to sell, and do not feel the weight of a foreign yoke. + + Last evening we received intelligence that General Taylor entered + the city of San Luis Potosi on the 13th of this month. Well done, + indomitable old hero! It is somewhat doubtful whether I shall go on + with the army. The surgeon advises me to remain here for the + present. With care he thinks I may rely on a permanent cure. Care, + however, is required. + + JALAPA, May 1, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--I am glad to be able to assure you that my health + is improving. It is not yet safe for me to ride my horse, and I + think that my ride from Encerro, the country seat of Santa Anna, to + Jalapa put me back some days. I can walk without any inconvenience + by being careful as to my gait, and avoiding all sudden steps. I am + not in the least incapacitated for office duty, and am, excepting my + injury, in very vigorous health. It is hard, I assure you, in this + beautiful region to be detained from enjoying my fine horse. As it + is, he stands in the stable doing nothing. On Monday, May 3, I shall + move on with General Patterson's advance, in charge of the engineer + train, to join the engineer corps with Worth. + + The brilliant conflict of Cerro Gordo came upon the Mexicans like a + thunderbolt, and is the most decisive blow of the war. The road is + free to the City of Mexico, and I have no doubt General Scott will + be there in six weeks. It is said the Mexicans will resort to the + guerrilla mode of warfare. It will be found worse than useless. It + will be found of assistance to our arms. General Scott will enforce + the strictest discipline, and the people of the country will remain + undisturbed in their houses. A fair price will be paid for + everything that is consumed. The war will be made to bear with a + heavy hand upon all connected with the government, and upon the + property of all disaffected persons. Don't feel alarmed about the + observation in the papers in reference to the terrible and atrocious + character of guerrilla warfare. No one here feels the least alarm. + Twelve resolute men can disperse a hundred rancheros. As guerrilla + troops our volunteers are infinitely superior to the Mexicans. The + Mexicans as guerrilla troops are poor. They are generally very + inferior troops. They are best behind breastworks, yet our men find + no difficulty in storming them. + + You may be sure that this city is a most charming place. We do not + find the upper classes disposed to associate with us. Jalapa is said + to be one of the most exclusive places in Mexico, the society being + broken up into cliques, and families living among themselves as in + New Bedford. The upper classes are indeed said to be very hostile + to us. We are now about building a battery to overawe the city, + where a ten-inch mortar will be mounted. The terrible destruction at + Vera Cruz from our shells has been spread over all Mexico, and with + all the exaggeration of the Spanish character. All the cities have + the greatest fear of our shells. + + The last few days I have been busily occupied in preparing a + narrative of the brilliant conflict of the Cerro Gordo, illustrated + with a sketch, and for the Engineer Department at Washington, and + also in writing a memoir on the best mode of opposing the guerrilla + warfare. The latter I have done chiefly for my own instruction. It + is possible, if I can finish it to my mind, I may have it published. + I have some thoughts of sending it to General Scott at once. The + general, however, is a very great talker and writer himself, and I + doubt whether he could find time to read the memoir. + + Sunday, May 2. The train does not go till to-morrow, so I can tell + you something of the occurrences of this day. Sunday is the great + market day of Jalapa, and this morning I saw the greatest profusion + of vegetables, watermelons in abundance, the finest oranges, + bananas, plantains, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, celery, beans, + peas, squashes, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, green + corn, rare-ripe onions, tomatoes. The onions are the finest I ever + saw. They are far superior to our own. Many well-dressed ladies were + to be seen in the market with their servants. I went to the + cathedral, but remained only a short time. + + I consulted to-day Dr. Wright, the hospital surgeon of Jalapa, in + reference to my difficulty, and he speaks in the most encouraging + manner. He says there is no objection to my riding a portion of the + distance on horseback, and that with care there is not the least + danger in advancing with the army. + + May 3. In the expectation that the march would take place to-morrow, + I was busily engaged preparing for my departure. The sappers + remaining in this place made all their arrangements, and the + engineer train of eight wagons was put in perfect order, a wagon + master and two extra men having been provided for. General + Patterson's advance brigade, that would serve as our escort, was + the brigade of Quitman. In the evening, about eight o'clock, an + express came up from Vera Cruz. + + May 4. I rose early, having decided to start at half past six + o'clock. Some delays occurred, and when in readiness to start, at + half past seven, I was informed that the order to march had been + countermanded. Consequently everything was put back in its place. + + About eleven A.M. Carigan, a sick sapper, died at the hospital. He + had been sick almost from the first day he came into the country. + His case was not considered incurable at Vera Cruz, but the journey + to Jalapa, riding in a wagon over a rough road, proved too much for + his strength. He was buried in the afternoon in a convent + churchyard, his remains having been accompanied by myself and five + sappers. When his body was lowered into its final resting-place, I + made a few remarks on the peculiar circumstances of his case, + dwelling upon the fact that his short service had not been in vain, + and that he had served his country, and as much died for his country + as though he had fallen at Vera Cruz or at Cerro Gordo. Sergeant + Clark and A.M. Noyes, on my calling on them, made a few very + appropriate remarks in reference to his case, and bore cheerful + testimony to his excellent character and the esteem in which he was + held by his associates. Regan, a sapper who had enlisted with him, + and who had known him for a long time, was a most sincere mourner. + He seemed to reproach himself as the cause of Carigan's death, in + consequence of his own example having been the cause of Carigan's + enlistment. I stated to Regan that he had no cause to reproach + himself, and that in writing to Carigan's friends he could dwell + upon the circumstances of Carigan's having received every attention, + and finally having been buried in one of the most beautiful regions + of the earth, and in ground consecrated by the religious solemnities + of his faith. + + May 5. There are reports that Santa Anna intends cutting off the + large train coming from Vera Cruz in a few days, in consequence of + which Captain Bainbridge with a battalion of infantry proceeded + downward yesterday, to be followed by Colonel Riley and a portion of + his brigade to-morrow, the whole to take a position at the National + Bridge. I now hold myself in readiness to move forward at any + moment. But in the present aspect of affairs, three regiments of + volunteers returning home, much sickness amongst the troops, and no + certainty as to the arrival of new levies, it is not certain that it + will be possible to move beyond Puebla. + + May 7. Left Jalapa this morning at 7.30 in charge of the second + section of the engineer train, to join the advance of General Worth, + and under the escort of General Quitman's brigade, to whom I + reported on my arrival at his encampment. He did not get under way + till towards noon, and, after marching two hours through a + cultivated and beautiful country, we reached the village of El + Soldado, about eight miles from Jalapa. After halting an hour at + this place the command pursued its march through a most picturesque + and beautiful country, presenting at the different points a varied + view of the valley, dotted all over with villages, and with fields + of corn and barley, and parties of laborers by the roadside + peacefully pursuing the cultivation of the soil. At La Hoya, + defended with some care at a pass between two high hills, with a + succession of barriers in the road, two arranged with a single + embrasure for guns, was to be seen the apple-tree in blossom, and + also the pine-tree. We halted at Las Vegas for the night, the road + hither ascending all the way, and the character of the trees rapidly + changing to the fir, the black birch, and the mountain oak. Las + Vegas is a somewhat straggling village of perhaps about two thousand + people, situated in a depression or valley in the hills, which to + the northeast expand into a most fertile and agreeable plain, highly + cultivated along the west side. Most inviting fields of barley and + corn had remained untouched, though the horses of our troops had + subsisted on the former. Jalapa to El Soldado, seven miles; to La + Hoya, three miles (large); to tank on left, nine miles; to Las + Vegas, three miles; Jalapa to Las Vegas, twenty-two miles. + + May 8. Left Las Vegas about eight A.M. and reached Perote about + twelve P.M., a distance of ten miles, or about. This route for the + first three miles is quite rough and uneven. At the end of the third + mile is a very long and difficult descent, at the foot of which is a + beautiful stream of ice-cold water, flowing directly from the Coffre + de Perote. Here the whole command were refreshed. After ascending a + considerable hill we again, after a gentle descent, gained a little + village at another, quite sluggish stream about a mile from the Rio + Frio. A slight ascent brought us to the extended plain of Perote, + ten or twelve miles in width and extending generally in a westerly + direction as far as El Pinal. Perote, with its castle in the middle + of the plain and towards its eastern extremity, was almost + depopulated, and presented a very uninviting appearance. General + Worth had collected here large stores of forage and flour, much + rice, and some sugar and coffee. On reporting to General Worth, and + stating my object (to join Captain Lee), I was directed to attach + myself to Colonel Clarke's brigade, the last battalion of which was + to march at seven A.M. on the 9th. I found Mason quite sick, and + doubtful as to his ability to move on. Though somewhat fatigued with + my day's march, I suffered no inconvenience from my rupture, though + the entire distance from Jalapa was made on horseback. + + May 9. I left Perote this morning with Colonel Clarke at seven A.M., + and arrived at San Antonio, a distance of seven miles, about + eleven. A slight halt was made three miles from Perote. At one + o'clock, after resting the mules, I proceeded with the train to Tepe + Ahualco, which I reached after a distance of nine miles. Here I + found the engineer company, and Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower of + the engineers. Captain Lee, unfortunately, was suffering from chills + and fever. + + May 10. The brigade of Colonel Garland, with General Worth and + staff, left Tepe Ahualco (a very mean village, with bad water) at + eight o'clock, and after a march of ten miles through the plain + reached the hacienda of Vireyes, where we encamped for the night. + This hacienda, like most of the haciendas of the country, was a good + substantial building on the four sides of a square, and arranged + with reference to the defense of the interior space. The peons lived + in mean habitations of mud and trellis-work, not equal to the + dwellings of swine in New England. + + May 11. The march commenced at seven A.M., and after two halts,--one + of about half an hour at Byzantium, distant eight miles, a village + having its cathedral, one or two stores with pulque for sale, and + pretty good houses for the peons; one of about two hours at Ojo de + Agua, distant ten miles, a village not so considerable as the + former, but noted for its clear water gushing in quite a large + stream from the roadside,--we reached the hacienda Santa Annaced as + a violent windstorm came on. Large stacks of barley straw in front + of the hacienda afforded sustenance for many domestic animals. As we + approached the village of Byzantium, a gently ascending and somewhat + considerable hill on the left, cultivated to its very top with the + maguey plant, and the green grass of the flowing stream at the base + relieved the dryness of the plain, and afforded a most pleasing + prospect. The road on the 10th and 11th was level; and for the most + part good. Distance this day, about twelve miles. + + May 12. The march commenced at six A.M., the rear brigade of Colonel + Clarke joining the advance brigade of Colonel Garland in its first + movement, its encampment having been only two miles in rear. After + proceeding some miles we entered Nopalucan, a considerable town of + three churches, several fondas, and some substantial houses. The + padre furnished the general and his officers an entertainment of + spirits and cakes. The best people had shut up their houses and left + the place. Before approaching Nopalucan, the road for some two miles + passes through a highly cultivated tract of country, with some dozen + haciendas on the right and left. An elevation on entering this tract + affords a very charming prospect. + + After remaining two hours at Nopalucan the division moved forward, + over in some portions a rough road, and encamped for the night one + league this side of the Pass of El Pinal. + + May 13. At Nopalucan information was given that Santa Anna, with + some fifteen hundred or two thousand lancers, had passed through + that place on the 10th for Puebla, and at the camp of the 12th and + 13th there were rumors that he had prepared mines in the road at El + Pinal. In consequence the engineer company, Duncan's battery, and + some other troops moved early to examine the pass. A false alarm + during the night left many of the troops much harassed. El Pinal is + no pass whatever, and the mines, of which rumor was so big, were + little excavations commenced under the road in two places, but + abandoned. El Pinal derives its name from the pine-trees, which are + found to the very top of the mountains. At this point the road + commences a rapid descent, and soon brings us to Acajete, a smaller + place than Nopalucan, yet having its church and its fonda. Here the + alcalde provided a collation for the general and his officers. + After halting an hour and a half, we moved forward, and reached + Amasoque about two o'clock. This is a village having a large public + square and three fine churches. It is larger than Nopalucan, and + must contain nearly four thousand inhabitants. + + It was determined to remain at Amasoque one entire day to enable + General Quitman's command to come up, and accordingly General + Worth's division was in expectation of a day's rest, but about nine + o'clock. + + May 14, word was brought that five thousand lancers were marching + down upon us. A reconnoissance by Captain Lee reduced the numbers to + less than two thousand, and the movement seemed to look to the + cutting of our communication with Quitman's column. It was so illy + concerted that seventy shots from Duncan's battery and a few from + Steptoe's turned the enemy from their apparent purpose, and caused + them to turn to their left and make good their retreat. A column of + about six hundred, however, continued their course, veering a little + to the left to keep out of the reach of Quitman, who, on hearing our + guns, hastened the march of his troops, and effected a junction with + Worth with great celerity. This column was followed by myself, + Lieutenant McClellan, and three dragoons as far as the hacienda San + Miguel, some five miles from Amasoque. On the way thither we crossed + a very deep arroyo, along a very good though very steep mule-path. + At the hacienda, having ascertained from the people and from their + trail that the column had continued their eccentric course, we + returned in a somewhat different direction, and having crossed an + arroyo by an almost impracticable path, and fallen on and nearly + captured a Mexican officer and his servant, we came to where the + arroyos met, and were obliged to retrace our steps. We reached + headquarters about three o'clock. I was exceedingly exhausted by my + exertions. Lieutenant McClellan was very gallant and prompt in + pursuing the Mexican, and lost him in consequence of the chapparal. + A pony that was led by the servant was given to the men. + + NOTE. The occurrences of this day show two things: 1st. Troops + should be quartered or encamped in reference to the attack of an + enemy, and the site should always be determined by officers of + engineers. + + 2d. On the arrival of troops at the place of encampment, an + examination should be made to determine the principal circumstances + in reference to the roads and the general features of the topography + of the country, so that, in case of an attack or demonstration, we + should have the necessary information to strike a vigorous blow at + the enemy, and push him into a precipitate retreat. At Amasoque + nothing was known in the morning in reference to the roads of the + village itself leading to the direction where the enemy was known to + be, until the reconnoissance was made after the presence of the + enemy was reported. Still less was anything known in regard to the + existence of the arroyos, which cut up the surface of the plain, and + rendered it entirely impracticable for cavalry and artillery to + operate, till the crossings (used by the people of the country and + known by their troops) were carefully ascertained. During the whole + march from Tepe Ahualco, these things had been entirely _neglected_. + + Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower made a reconnoissance of the + country towards Puebla, and discovered that the main body of the + enemy had retrograded to a village some eight miles from and off the + main road to Puebla. Colonel Garland's brigade was pushed forward + about two miles and bivouacked for the night. The troops were + ordered to march, first at nine P.M., then at three A.M., and + finally at five A.M., in order to concentrate near Puebla in the + course of the morning. In consequence of these continual changes, + the troops were exceedingly and needlessly harassed. + + May 15. The army moved at five A.M., and at a village three miles + from Amasoque, commissioners were found in waiting to treat for the + occupation of the city. The assurances of the general were + satisfactory to them. They were simply a recognition that Puebla + should be no exception to the general course our army has pursued in + this country as regards the inviolability of the rights, persons, + religion, and authority of the city, so far as not incompatible with + its military occupation. The troops in the course of the day were + all got into quarters, although it was accomplished in a very + undignified manner, the general, at the head of his staff, + personally superintending the breaking open of the doors of the + barracks whenever they were not opened by the keys in season to + satisfy his impatient spirit. + + May 16-22. The army continued in the peaceful occupation of Puebla, + and nothing occurred to disturb the general tranquillity except two + or three cases of broils, occasioned by the imprudence of our own + people, and one report of the march of Santa Anna to attack the + city. Some changes were made in the distribution of troops, much + attention paid to the rumors of the streets, and no general system + of measures adopted in relation to the defenses of the city, or to + the dispositions to be made in case of the attack of an enemy. The + people were decidedly hostile to Santa Anna, and our respect for + their rights was making a decided change in our favor. On the 20th + and 21st the city was rife with rumors of the approach of General + Taylor to San Luis Potosi, and at length it was said that General + Taylor had been taken prisoner and hanged. Information came on the + 21st that General Scott was still at Jalapa, and would not leave + till the 23d. + + May 23, 24. Affairs continue tranquil. Information has come that + General Twiggs left Jalapa Saturday, May 22, and was followed by + General Scott on Sunday. My own health is improving very rapidly, + and on the 24th I reported to Captain Lee my readiness for duty. + + May 25. Engaged on a reconnoissance of the road to Tlascala. There + are two roads, one for carriages and one for mules, which continue + separate the whole distance to Tlascala. This reconnoissance + occupied seven hours, and was supported by twelve sappers. + + May 26. Accompanied Captain Lee and Lieutenants Mason and Tower in + an examination of the hill and the adjacent parts of the city, to + determine a position for our troops in case of the attack of the + enemy. The occupation of the hill, the Cuartel San José, and some + buildings on the right and left, fulfilled the conditions quite + well. It commanded the city, and the approaches to it in the + direction of the hill afforded room for stores, wagons, and animals. + This examination was suggested to General Worth by Captain Lee on + the first occupation of the city, but was deferred in consequence of + press of business, and was ordered to-day in consequence of a report + that a strong force of the enemy was marching upon the city from + Mexico. + + May 27. A fatigue party with some sappers, and all under the + direction of Lieutenant Smith, were employed to-day in repairing the + parapet of Fort Guadalupe, on the summit of the hill. The engineer + officers were engaged generally in examining roads entering the + city, and plotting the same. + + May 28. General Scott and staff arrived to-day. Engineers employed + as yesterday. + + May 29. General Twiggs arrived with his division to-day at three + P.M., and at one o'clock the long roll beat in consequence of a + report of the approach of the enemy, twenty thousand strong. This + proved to be unfounded. + + May 30, 31. The only occurrence of interest is Santa Anna's solemn + renunciation of power, and return to private life. He declares in + his manifest that he has labored with a single eye to the good of + his country, and can review with satisfaction and without reproach + his whole public career. I cannot but entertain the opinion that + Santa Anna's renouncing all authority is in consequence of a fixed + determination on his part to be "Aut Cæsar aut nihil." It may be the + deliberate act of a great statesman and patriot, more firmly to + maintain the authority necessary to save his country. He may act + from the conviction that his country, seeing that he would not + continue in authority in this crisis unless he were cordially + supported by all parties, would with one voice recall him to public + life and invest him with full powers. So far as I am able to judge, + Santa Anna's career, since his return to Mexico, has been most + glorious and remarkable. Without resources, and in the midst of + internal discord, he has organized two large armies, and made one of + the most extraordinary marches in all history. He has been defeated, + but throughout has shown an admirable constancy, and exhibited high + military qualities. In strategic operations he has shown marked + ability. At Buena Vista he came within an ace of utterly defeating + General Taylor, and had he succeeded (and the probabilities were in + his favor), he would have been able to excite to the highest pitch + of enthusiasm the whole nation. A large army might have been raised, + and our advance into the interior effectually checked. On the field + of battle he has not proved equal to us. But it is probably due to + the nature of his troops, who in the shock of the conflict are + inferior to us, three or four to one. At Angostura, and at the Cerro + Gordo, he exhibited courage and an indefatigable spirit. He did not + leave the height of the Cerro Gordo till the very moment of its + falling into our hands, and he was obliged to make his escape on one + of the wheel mules of his carriage. Nor were his spirits depressed + by this overwhelming defeat. He immediately rallied his troops at + Orizaba, a strategic position in reference to the whole route of + Jalapa from Vera Cruz to Puebla. Here he was able to threaten our + lines of communication, and, without moving a step, he compelled us + to protect our trains with large escorts as they came up from Vera + Cruz to Jalapa. When nearly a whole brigade (Riley's) was sent down + to protect the large train supposed to be the last of five hundred + wagons, and it became evident that nothing more would be gained in + this direction, he anticipated our advance, and threw himself + between us and the City of Mexico. He has now renounced all + authority. We must wait until his real object in taking this great + step shall have become developed. + + June 3. We have rumors to-day that a reinforcement of 3000 men has + landed at Antigua, and is on the march to Jalapa. It has been + determined to break up Jalapa, place the sick in hospital in Perote, + and bring up the whole disposable force to Puebla. At Perote and + Jalapa are 800 sick and 1700 men in garrison. Leaving a garrison of + 400 men in Perote, the remaining 1300 men, with 900 recruits, will + increase the troops now at Puebla, 6000 effectives including + officers (there are 700 sick), to 8200; of the 900 recruits, at + least 200 will be left behind sick. So that 8000 men will be the + extent of our force. We shall probably remain in Puebla till about + the 1st of July, and then advance to the city with our whole force. + + I write this evening to my wife by a train going down to-morrow. It + is doubtful whether the letter will reach the States. + + This is Corpus Christi Day. I attended church in the morning, and + was anything but pleased with the idle ceremonies of the occasion. + The Catholicism of this country is a great corruption of that of the + United States. It is chiefly a religion of observances, and of the + most burdensome and elaborate kind. Excepting human sacrifices, it + is on a par with the religion of the Aztecs. + + A bull-fight having been advertised, I attended it with many other + officers, but the performance was a very tame one. The bulls were + barbarously butchered after having been lassoed and thrown down. + Every one returned home disgusted. + + June 4. The news from Mexico to-day is less favorable to peace. The + congress, it is said, has refused to accept the resignation of Santa + Anna, and the latter has left Mexico to take command of the troops. + The landing of Cadwallader with three thousand troops has been + confirmed. Half a million of money is also on its way. Everything + bears a favorable aspect now. The arrival of funds is of great + consequence, in order that no necessity may arise to live by forced + contributions. We ought to apply to the support of the war the + revenues that formerly went to the central government, but in our + dealings with individuals scrupulously to pay for every supply and + service. To-day I was employed on the journal of last month. The + officers were generally employed on the drawings. + + June 6. A mail arrived to-day with cheering news from the States. + The government was exerting its energies to increase both columns of + invasion, and, from the success which had already attended the + recruiting service, there was little doubt that in the course of the + season there would be thirty thousand troops in the field. Six + regiments of volunteers for the war were also to be called out. + + June 7-21. The army has continued recruiting its strength and + awaiting reinforcements. Daily drills in companies, battalions, + brigades, and divisions have tended to give tone and efficiency to + the command, though a counteracting influence has been found in the + troops not being paid. Great discontent exists in consequence of + this. Many of the troops are quartered in damp basements, and all + live on fresh provisions, prolific causes of disease. The sickness + has been as high as twenty-five per cent. of the whole number + present, and even at this time is not much below this. In some + regiments the company officers do not attend to their men, and + particularly to their food. The use of the chili, or Mexican pepper, + supplies the place of salt, and contributes essentially to the + health of the troops. + + There have been occasional rumors of rising in the city, to be + assisted by guerrillas. A small force is with the governor at + Athsio, and all the roads are infested to some extent by this + description of troops. There have been several attempts to induce + our men to desert, and now a German is being tried for the offense, + and will probably be put to death. + + The engineers have been employed in drawing a map of the city and + its environs, completing the drawings of the siege of Vera Cruz, and + collecting information in relation to the roads and localities in + the valley of Mexico. + + The general-in-chief reached Puebla on the 28th, and on the + following day all the engineer officers and the engineer company + were relieved from duty with particular divisions, and placed under + the direction of the senior engineer at general headquarters. + General Twiggs arrived with his division on the 29th of June. + + Information was derived from Americans, residents of the City of + Mexico, who joined the army as it penetrated into the country, and + from Mexicans (robbers and contrabandists), etc. In consequence of + these inquiries, Captain Lee was enabled to prepare a map of all the + routes from Puebla to the City of Mexico and in its valley, and + exhibiting generally the topography of the country, its hills, + rivers, marshes, etc. Much information was also obtained in + reference to the fixed means of defense of the enemy,--particularly + the position and character of field-works and batteries, and the + character of the obstructions from cuts in the causeways of approach + to the city, and from inundations from the lakes. In the + investigation of this matter, one circumstance transpired affording + convincing proof that no difficulty would be found to bribe men of + rank and influence. A merchant of Puebla, of some wealth, extensive + connection, and large practical knowledge of localities in all parts + of Mexico, for the sum of five thousand dollars proposed going to + the City of Mexico and procuring accurate information in reference + to the roads and localities in the valley of Mexico, the fixed means + of defense of the enemy, the force, composition, distribution, and + _morale_ of the troops, the state of public feeling in the city, + etc. He professed a sufficient acquaintance with military matters to + furnish the information with entire fullness and accuracy. Nor did + he ask the least compensation for his services till the information + furnished should be pronounced perfectly satisfactory. This + proposition was finally declined by General Scott. + + It having been ascertained that Dominguez, the chief of the robbers + from Vera Cruz to Mexico and a resident of Puebla, was willing to + enter into the American service with at least a portion of the + robbers, Major Smith proposed to the general-in-chief that they + should be received, and employed as spies, guides, and couriers. + This suggestion met with his approbation, and the inspector-general, + Colonel Hitchcock, was associated with Major Smith in arranging a + proper organization. Thus far the robbers have proved useful as + spies and couriers. + + General Cadwallader is known to be on his way from Perote, and will + probably reach Puebla with his command to-day or to-morrow. It is to + be feared that the large number of sick will render it necessary to + leave a garrison in Puebla, reducing, if the advance to Mexico + obtain within ten days, the efficient fighting force to six thousand + men. + + June 22-24. Information reached General Scott on the evening of the + 23d that General Cadwallader was at Perote, and that he would leave + next day and reach Puebla on Monday, the 29th. He met with serious + resistance between Jalapa and Perote, particularly at the Pass of La + Hoya. The 24th was St. John's Day, and was celebrated generally + throughout the city. Some patriotic feeling was exhibited in the + military dresses and flags of the boys. The engineer company + obtained authority to change their quarters to the convent San + Antonio. The subject of an engineer drill was under discussion by + Lieutenants Mason, Stevens, and G.W. Smith, and it was decided that + the manual of the miner should be translated. On the 24th I + submitted to Major Smith a brief memoir on a system of espionage, + and involving the employment of the robbers of the country. + + June 25-28. During these days information has reached headquarters + of the landing of General Pillow at Vera Cruz, and of his order to + General Cadwallader to await his arrival in Perote. The whole + command, probably amounting to five thousand men, will arrive as + early as the 5th of July. + + Rumors for several days have been rife in Puebla of negotiations for + a treaty of peace being commenced. Several messengers are known to + have arrived from Mexico, and the Mexican president has been + notified by General Scott that a commissioner with powers to treat + has arrived from the United States. I see no indication of the least + disposition to treat on the part of the Mexican nation, and nothing + can stay the advance of our army to the valley of Mexico. Even then, + in consequence of the rainy season and the smallness of our force, + we shall restrict ourselves to the narrowest limits; but a small + portion of the heart of the country will feel our presence, and the + spirit of the people will not be subdued. They will flatter + themselves with the hope of soon driving from their capital and + their soil the _infamous invader_. New armies will be raised, and we + again in the fall obliged to take the field. North to Zacatecas let + our arms extend! + + July 1. The Mexican congress, agreeably to the proclamation of the + president, assembled on the 28th of June, but, wanting five of a + quorum, adjourned to the 5th of July, the special subject of their + consideration being the appointing of commissioners to treat of + peace. Pillow reached Perote yesterday (probably), and will probably + be in Puebla on the 7th or 8th inst. It is also supposed that Pierce + has arrived in Vera Cruz with additional troops. It is a doubtful + matter whether the Mexican congress will take a decided course in + initiating negotiations, or whether the commissioners whom they + appoint will agree upon the terms. I have every confidence that + General Scott, whilst showing every disposition to respond to any + desire for peace which the Mexican nation may express, and exerting + his whole strength to accomplish that great object, will not permit + it to be made a pretext to gain time, and a cover to the complete + organization of the enemy's force. The enemy may treat at this time. + They stickle on points of honor, and will have the greatest + repugnance to the occupation of their capital. They see our force + daily increasing. They have felt our prowess at the Cerro Gordo. + They know we desire peace. Our terms are not hard. If we advance + and enter the City of Mexico, their government will be in a measure + dissolved, and the favorable moment for negotiations have gone. All + these considerations must incline the candid and intelligent portion + of the nation to arrange all matters in dispute before we advance + from Puebla. Yet the Castilian obstinacy and pride may overrule all + these considerations, and determine them to try the issue of a + protracted contest. It is possible they may consider our terms, if + agreed to, as the step fatal and inevitable towards the final + occupation of the whole country, and, considering the present + conflict as one for national independence, they may conclude to + fight as long as a man remains to bear arms. For one, I cannot but + consider the issue doubtful, and am inclined to the belief that + nothing will come from the present movement, and that we shall + advance to and enter the City of Mexico. + + July 4. The anniversary of our national independence has dawned upon + the Americans in Puebla most auspiciously. News came last evening + that General Pierce, with two thousand men, left Vera Cruz on June + 28, and that in a week he would be followed by six thousand more + troops. If this be true, we shall be able to launch a column of + fifteen thousand men against the capital. It must fall into our + hands with but little resistance. The rainy season should be devoted + to the disciplining and reorganization of the whole army, new levies + and old troops. Thus in October, based in the valley of Mexico, we + shall be in condition to move in any direction, and doubtless, + northward, our columns will march as far as Zacatecas, unless + previously peace be agreed upon. + + A war fever has broken out afresh in the capital, and energetic + measures are being taken to add to their means of defense. Church + bells are being cast into cannon, and field-works and fortifications + put in good condition. + + The engineer staff called on the general officers in the morning and + dined together afterwards. We passed a pleasant day. + + July 6. A courier came in this morning with information that El + Pinal was occupied by a guerrilla force of one thousand men, and + that the train had been at Ojo de Agua two days, resting from the + fatigues of the march from Perote. The roads were bad, and many of + the teams had given out. Colonel Harney, with a force of seven + hundred men and a relief train of forty wagons, started at eight + o'clock, + + July 7, to disperse the assemblage at El Pinal, and meet the exposed + train at Nopalucan. The troops still continue sick. About noon the + arrival of General Pillow at Amasoque was announced; about five + o'clock the dragoons arrived, bringing with them the long-expected + mail. + + July 8. The troops reached Puebla about noon to-day, and as they + passed General Scott in review, they made a sorry appearance. In + some respects composed of good material, they have come in all haste + to the seat of war without a single day's drill, and after a march + of one hundred and sixty-one miles it is not surprising they were + much worn down. The day in the city was by all devoted to reading + letters and papers. I had the extreme felicity of getting five + letters from my dear wife, announcing her comfortable settlement for + the season in Newport. In a distant land, the pleasure of receiving + intelligence from our dear friends at home is above and beyond all + other pleasures. My latest dates were to the 31st of May. + + July 9. A general order of to-day assigned Pillow to the command of + the third regular division, composed of Cadwallader's and Pierce's + brigades, General Quitman continuing in command of the volunteer + division till it shall become practicable to join his proper regular + division with General Taylor. General Shields was assigned to the + command of the volunteer brigade now in Puebla. We learned to-day + that there was a movement to the north against Santa Anna in which + eight states joined. The prospect of peace is very small. + + July 10. News from Mexico more unfavorable to peace. Congress wants + eleven of a quorum. There are now eighteen thousand troops in the + valley of Mexico, provided with arms and sixty pieces of cannon. + Four thousand troops from San Luis Potosi are said to be daily + expected. All the causeways are armed with cannon, protected by + field-works with wet ditches. Important advantages will result from + deferring the advance to Mexico till the close of the rainy season. + Time will be gained to put the new levies in shape, instructing both + officers and men in their duty, and making them more reliable before + an enemy. The large number of sick will be much reduced, and + sickness will be prevented by the march in dry weather. + Reinforcements will come up. The disposition of the Mexicans for + peace will be thoroughly tested, and ulterior operations after + conquering the city and valley can be arranged. The war can be + vigorously pushed in the dry season, with ample supplies of + transportation. The new levies are utterly unreliable, and the main + dependence is in the old troops, scarcely six thousand effective + men. Not the least doubt is felt at our ability at this time to + enter the capital, and it is not to be disguised that every day's + delay increases the strength of the enemy's force and affords the + means to perfect his works. I believe, however, that our own + strength will increase in a greater ratio. The dry season will give + important advantages in our own counter-works, greater in proportion + than in those possessed by the enemy. Our victory will also be more + decisive, and will have greater results. + + July 11, 12. The city has assumed its usual quietude, and it is to + be hoped that effective measures will be at once taken to put the + new levies in some state of efficiency. This morning (12th) a + squadron of dragoons under the command of Captain Kearny set forth + for Mexico with a flag in reference to an exchange of prisoners. A + general order has just been published announcing an early and + vigorous movement, directing reviews of the several divisions, and + the utmost attention to tactical instruction, etc. It is understood + the movement will commence on Tuesday, July 20. + + July 18. It has been ascertained that Pierce will not reach Puebla + until about the first of August (he left Vera Cruz July 15 or 16), + and consequently the advance movement has been deferred. I trust it + will be deferred till the rainy season is over, and that in the mean + time a train will go down and bring up additional supplies. The flag + which went out on the 12th returned on the 14th. Captain Kearny went + as far as Rio Frio, and made the distance, about forty miles, in ten + hours. The flag is understood to have had reference to an exchange + of prisoners. No answer has yet been returned. + + The review of the troops has been going on. General Twiggs has + unquestionably the best division in the service. + + In conformity with instructions from the general-in-chief, Major + Smith made a report on the 13th in reference to the garrison and + munitions to be left in Puebla on the advance of the army to Mexico, + and the position to be occupied by the garrison. On the 15th + authority was given by the general to enlarge the engineer train. + + July 25. It is now considered hopeless to negotiate with the Mexican + government until another blow is struck, and accordingly it has been + intimated from headquarters that the advance division shall move as + soon as the brigade of Pierce shall be within one day's march. As it + is almost certain that Pierce has taken the Orizaba road, he cannot + reach Puebla much before Thursday of next week, August 4, so that + the advance cannot be made till about Wednesday, August 3. + + During the past week the conversations of the streets in reference + to the probabilities of peace or war have been constantly + fluctuating from one extreme to the other. Taking counsel of their + desires, people have eagerly caught at straws to convince themselves + that peace was certain. At no time, judging from actual facts, has + there been much probability that the difficulties between the two + governments would be adjusted at this stage of the business. + + The governing class of Mexico are easily elated; are characterized + by remarkable tenacity of purpose and indomitable pride, which is + not disposed to submit to humiliation; and they have at their head a + fit representative in all respects, a man of extensive capacity both + for peace and war, and who possesses in an eminent degree genius for + command. In consequence of the long and necessary delay at Puebla, + the enemy have been able to organize quite a formidable force in the + City of Mexico, and to strengthen their position by batteries and + artificial obstacles, till now, with the spirit of hopefulness so + indigenous to the Spanish character, they believe themselves in + condition successfully to oppose us. + + August 1. Last evening a courier brought notes from General Pierce + and Colonel Wyncoop of the 29th ult. The former was at La Hoya with + two thousand men, and no enemy on the road. General Smith, July 28, + with the 1st artillery, 3d infantry, rifle regiment of New York + volunteers, and one squadron of dragoons, went down to meet him, and + at the last accounts was at Ojo de Agua. + + It is exceedingly difficult to push couriers through to Vera Cruz. + They are sure to be searched, and shot if papers are found on them. + Dispatches are made very short, on thin, small pieces of paper, and + concealed in the garments of the couriers. It is believed that the + enemy have relays of horses along the road from Vera Cruz to Mexico, + and that intelligence is transmitted at the rate of six miles an + hour. Every important transaction in Puebla is known at headquarters + in the City of Mexico in ten to twelve hours. With our limited + number of troops, it is impracticable to organize the line from + Puebla to Vera Cruz so that our couriers could travel in safety with + the same rapidity. Besides considerable garrisons in both Perote and + Jalapa, there would have to be a strong force at Orizaba, and + garrisons with stockade defenses on both the Orizaba and national + roads every day's journey, say fifteen to twenty miles apart. I say + it is impracticable so to organize our rear and have left a force + adequate to the reduction of the City of Mexico. In my judgment it + would be our true military policy immediately thus to organize our + rear, and remain in Puebla till a well-disciplined army could be + collected from the States. + + On Thursday, July 29, a court of inquiry asked for by Colonel Riley + commenced its sittings, Pillow, Quitman, and Colonel Clarke, + members. That gallant veteran and most excellent officer, Colonel + Riley, has demanded an inquiry into his operations at the Cerro + Gordo, on the ground that the services of his brigade have not + received justice at the hands of General Twiggs and the + commander-in-chief in their official reports. Riley was a daring and + successful officer of the last war, and has been in more battles and + combats than any other officer in the army. Though advanced in + years, he is intrepid, decided, and of sound judgment. I doubt not + the court of inquiry will make a report that will soothe the + injured feelings of the gallant and good old man. + + PUEBLA, MEXICO, July 8, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--I feel and know that here I can do some service + for my country. So long as my services shall be needed here, I would + not feel at liberty to ask to go home. I fear that peace cannot be + brought about till some great blow is struck, and another signal + victory won. Such is the wretched misgovernment of this people, and + so discordant are their public counsels, so corrupt and selfish + their public men, that I sometimes fear that the strong arm of + military power alone can pacificate the nation. No nation on the + face of the earth is a stronger exemplification of the strong + governing the weak. Wherever our army has gone, the people have been + benefited. You can hardly realize how conciliatory has been the + deportment of our people throughout. All along the road from Vera + Cruz to Puebla, beautiful fields of corn and grain were left + untouched, when our horses were suffering for food. Any aggression + on the property of the people is promptly punished and redressed. + The Mexican army ravage their own people, and leave a sad wreck + behind them. We pay for everything, and protect the people in their + rights. I believe the entrance of our army will give a fresh impulse + to this people. They are now but half civilized, taking the whole + population together. An impulse will be given to the arts of peace, + and the nation will be wiser and better for our coming among them. + + You may be sure that I take great satisfaction in your writing + frequently to father. It will be a great comfort to him. I wish you + so far as you can to occupy my place as regards my own relatives. + Besides my father, Oliver, and Mary, I think many of them are much + attached to me, and that they have a very high regard for you. I + fear their expectations are much too high as to my prospects here. I + aspire to no higher distinction than to do my entire duty. Our + military establishment is so wretchedly organized that it is + difficult for a man of acknowledged merit to rise. In organizing the + ten new regiments very few promotions were made from the existing + organizations, in consequence of which some of the ablest military + men in our army see placed above them men totally devoid of capacity + or zeal for the public service. One of the colonels of the new + regiments is a dismissed cadet from West Point, and since I + graduated. One of the majors of the volunteer regiments is a + dismissed cadet of my own class, a very stupid and ignorant fellow. + The men of capacity and of merit have this satisfaction: in + difficult straits their counsels are sought and followed. The advice + of lieutenants, even, is taken when that of general officers is + disregarded. + + Sunday, July 18. It is ten days since I wrote the above, nor is + there much prospect that what has been written, and what I am + writing now, will reach you for months. It is a great pleasure to + write, and I know that whatever I write you will be glad to read. + Pierce will not arrive in Puebla with his brigade before the 1st of + August, nor can we advance to Mexico till after his arrival. We + shall be detained here at least three weeks, a length of time + invaluable to get well our sick and put in good shape our new + levies. You can hardly realize either the scenery or the climate of + this place. To the west are the two snowy mountains of Popocatepetl + and Iztaccihuatl, their crests far above the clouds, to the north, + Malinche, hoar with occasional frosts, and in every other direction + gentle elevations, the whole inclosing one of the most beautiful and + fertile valleys in the world. Though in the nineteenth degree of + latitude and in midsummer, the climate corresponds with Newport in + the month of April. This is due to the snowy mountains, our high + elevation above the sea (at least 7500 feet), and the daily rains. + Every afternoon regularly, we have a copious shower, and frequently + a deluge of rain. I find four blankets and my woolen drawers + necessary to keep me warm. We need as much bedclothing as in + Bucksport in midwinter. I wear thick clothes all the time, and + sometimes an overcoat. The gentlemen of Puebla are accustomed to + wear their cloaks habitually. For one I could not dispense with + flannel underclothes. Yet we never have frosts, and all the fruits + and vegetables come to maturity at all seasons of the year. It is a + very trying climate. The extreme rarity of the atmosphere is trying + to all of us. It checks the insensible perspiration, and we have to + be careful to keep well. At the present time my health is perfect. + I was never better in my life, and this is the result of an + abstemiousness in both eating and drinking which I have practiced + ever since my arrival. We have an engineer mess of five officers. + For breakfast and supper we scarcely ever have anything but dry + toasted bread without butter and hard-boiled eggs. For dinner, meats + plainly but thoroughly cooked, and a variety of vegetables without + fruit or pastry. Fruit is considered unhealthy. In one of your + letters you inquire if my servant is not in my way. You must + recollect that our servants do our washing as well as take care of + our horses and attend upon us. My servant's part is to wait upon + table and clean the dishes. He has to take care of my room, make up + my bed, mend my clothes, see that they are washed and in good + condition, and take care of my horse. He is expected to spend much + time in cleaning my horse, and he has to ride him every day for + exercise when I have no occasion to use him myself. My servant's + name is Michael Cunningham, a native of New York, and a very + good-hearted and attentive fellow. Michael's only fault is that + occasionally he indulges in an extra glass. This I hope to correct. + My old soldier in Vera Cruz I was obliged to discharge for + drunkenness. Michael I found in Puebla. He was a soldier whose term + of enlistment had expired. I like this kind of life very much. But + you need not fear that I shall look back to it with regret, when I + find myself in the midst of my little family and by my own fireside. + Wherever we are, it is wise to be content. It makes one's duties + pleasanter, and our lives more profitable. + + You may inquire how I spend my time. We breakfast at eight, dine at + two, and sup at seven. I generally rise in season for breakfast, and + go to bed about twelve at night. After breakfast I take a walk and + call on my friends. From ten to five o'clock I pass in my room in + attending to my official duties, which are now entirely sedentary, + and consist in preparing returns, reports, making drawings, etc., or + in studying my profession as found in the books which I brought out + with me, and which are a perfect treasure. Five to nine is spent in + visiting, talking, receiving visits, etc. Nine to twelve I pass + generally in reading. Thus my time is well filled, and I am being in + some degree useful and preparing myself for future usefulness. + Mason spends his time very much in the same way. I am studying daily + the Spanish language, and hope before leaving this country to be + able to speak it. + + Captain Pitman, of Providence, now senior captain of the 9th + infantry, I see frequently. He came up with Cadwallader, and is + spoken of highly by those who have had opportunities to witness his + deportment as an officer. I have no doubt he will do good service, + though unfortunately his company is small, some thirty odd effective + men. He is determined to learn his profession, and will soon get his + company in good condition. + + Sunday, August 1. My dear wife, since I have been an observer in + this country, I have been more and more convinced that the hero age + has not yet gone. This country, so highly favored by nature, a land + emphatically of sun and flowers, so abject in the slavishness and + brutality of its people, needs a hero spirit for its regeneration. + Cortez and his devoted band did a great work, a work fit for heroes + and prophets. His iron will and great soul planted Castilian + civilization and enterprise in the midst of a contracted and + superstitious people; and cities of fine proportions, magnificent + works of art, cathedrals to the worship of the Most High, gardens in + the arid plain and the dense chapparal and the wild forest field + soon greeted the eyes of men in attestation of his genius. But with + the decline of Castilian grandeur, Mexico ceased to be governed by a + race of heroes, and her governors and her priests have degenerated + into mere cumberers of the earth, having zeal only for their own + aggrandizement. Is not here a work for a Moses or an Alfred? Is he + not needed? And must he not arise? With the times must come the man. + + But enough of this. We are still in Puebla, our army eleven thousand + strong, daily improving in health, discipline, and efficiency, + General Pierce some five days behind with that eagerly looked-for + mail that is to bring us tidings from our homes, and all eyes turned + to Mexico, ready for either alternative of peace or war. We all hope + that this vexed question may be settled here on terms honorable to + both countries. But if this is not to be, no man fears the ultimate + result. Every private in the ranks has a solid and well-grounded + conviction that our flag is never destined to retire, that no effort + of the enemy can pull it down. If we move onward, no mortal arm can + prevent the valley of Mexico from falling into our hands. General + Scott is a remarkable man. I will acknowledge that I was under wrong + impressions as to his character. Of a strong and comprehensive mind, + he has extraordinary tenacity of purpose, great self-reliance, and a + power of labor equaled by few men. He is emphatically the leader of + our army, and has its confidence. None of our general officers are + to be compared with him. He has his weak points, which I will not + mention now. No man in this army doubts his fitness to command. + + August 7. Since writing the above General Pierce has arrived with a + mail from the States, bringing to me the melancholy tidings that my + sister Mary was in Cincinnati in the last stages of consumption, + unable to proceed farther on her way home. Oliver went on to bring + her home, and wrote me the very day of his arrival. I wrote you + yesterday by a courier employed at great expense to go down to Vera + Cruz, but it is very uncertain whether he will get through. All the + letters that have been sent to the States for months have been by + couriers, who carry 80 to 100 letters, each a very small package, at + two dollars per letter, and for the sake of the gain run the + gauntlet of the guerrillas and robbers that infest the road. About + one half get through. I trust that letter will reach you, as it + would, I think, serve to remove much doubt in reference to the + movement of our army upon the City of Mexico. Twiggs's division + commenced its movement to-day. To-morrow General Scott and staff + will leave Puebla, and reach Twiggs the same evening at San Martin. + Every one is in fine spirits, and no doubt is felt as to the result. + This letter I must now bring to a close, and get ready for the + march. I shall not be able to add to it till we enter the City of + Mexico, and go again into quarters. At that time not far distant, I + trust not more than fourteen days, I trust I shall be able to inform + you of a glorious victory and of my own personal safety. I for one + have not the least presentiment of coming personal danger. I simply + fear that my strength may not hold out to the last. But with + prudence I have little apprehension as to my strength proving + inadequate for my share of duty. I must now, with all hope and + confidence in the future, bid you good-night and my sweet babes, + commending you all to the care of that great Being who does not + permit a sparrow to fall to the ground without his knowledge. + +[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF MEXICO] + + + + + CHAPTER X + + ADVANCE TO MEXICO, EL PEÑON, CONTRERAS, + CHURUBUSCO + + +The City of Mexico is situated in the centre of an irregular basin some +thirty-five miles from north to south and twenty-five miles from east to +west, and is separated from the great plain of Puebla by the eastern +branch of the great Cordillera of Anahuac, interposing an elevation of +nineteen hundred feet at the Pass of the Rio Frio. + +It was known from information collected by the engineers that the city +was entirely surrounded either by an inundation or by marshy ground, and +was approached by eight causeways, flanked with wet ditches, and +provided with numerous cuts; that the whole city was protected by a +double and in some quarters by a triple line of defensive works, well +armed with cannon, and defended by an army of some thirty thousand men. +The direct approach along the great national road was defended by the +strong position of the Peñon, seven miles from the city. Chapultepec +stood boldly out on the southwest, and on the north there were said to +be formidable works at Guadalupe. + +After entering the valley along the national road, there were three +general modes of approaching the city,--the direct along the national +road, around Lake Tezcuco on the north, Chalco and Xochimilco on the +south. + +All the information collected pointed to the south and west as the +proper quarter from whence to attack the city; the south presented an +extended front with four of the eight causeways of entrance nearly +parallel to each other, and was necessarily weak. On the west the suburb +of San Cosme, a single street lined with houses on either side, extended +well into the country, and afforded a vulnerable point. Chapultepec, not +deemed a very formidable obstacle, required to be swept away to be free +to select the point of attack. Hence Tacubaya, a strong village +overawing Chapultepec, became the key point of the whole operation. In +the particular operation against the southern front, the occupancy of +the church and village of Piedad was of the last importance, in view of +all the southern gates, communicating directly with all the villages in +rear from Tacubaya to San Augustine, and by a good cross road +controlling the three causeways of San Antonio, Nino Perdido, and +Piedad. + +Before ultimately deciding upon the strategic line, General Scott +determined to enter the valley at the head of the column, and whilst the +rear was closing up, to employ spies and push forward reconnoissances to +get accurate information of all the material facts bearing on the plan +of operations. + +Accordingly, on the 7th of August the division of Twiggs, with the +engineer company at its head, led the advance, followed on successive +days by Quitman, Worth, and Pillow. General Scott and staff joined the +advance on the 8th. On the 11th Twiggs reached Ayotla, fifteen miles +from Mexico, Quitman Buena Vista, Worth Rio Frio, Pillow Tesmaluca, +respectively 3-1/2 miles, 11-1/2 miles, and 20-1/2 miles in rear. + +On the 12th a reconnoissance of the Peñon was made by Captains Lee and +Mason and Lieutenant Stevens, the escort consisting of a squadron of the +dragoons, Captain Thornton, a section of Taylor's battery, and the 4th +artillery,--the whole under the command of Major Gardner. The Peñon was +found to be an extensive and commanding position, entirely surrounded +by water,--Lake Tezcuco stretching miles to the north. The base of the +hill, four hundred feet high, was surrounded by a continuous parallel +armed with batteries, and the defenses rose in amphitheatre to the top, +which was crowned by a small work. The only causeway of approach was +swept by two lines of works, and the defenses of the whole position were +formidable. A road branching off from the main road, two miles from the +Peñon, and leading to Mexicalcingo, was pursued some two miles, and +found to be exceedingly good. The Indians in the neighborhood reported +that the road was equally good throughout its whole extent, but that the +bridge at Mexicalcingo was broken down. + +An amusing incident occurred in the progress of this reconnoissance. +Three officers--Major Gaines, of the Kentucky volunteers, Captain Mason +and Lieutenant Stevens, of the engineers--approached the causeway some +three quarters of a mile in advance of the escort, and advanced towards +a group of Mexican officers, some eight or ten in number, who were +flourishing their lances and curveting their horses as if to frighten +the American officers away. The latter, well mounted, continued their +course in a deliberate walk; and when they arrived within about three +hundred yards, the valiant Mexicans discharged their pistols, and, +finding no effect had been produced upon the American officers, who +still continued to advance, they immediately took to flight along the +causeway. + +In the afternoon Captain Lee and Lieutenant Beauregard reconnoitred the +road on the northern shore of Lake Chalco, as far as the causeway +between Lakes Chalco and Xochimilco. The causeway was knee-deep in +water. The object of the reconnoissance (to get boats) was not effected. +During the progress of the reconnoissance of the Peñon the Mexican +troops, in expectation of an attack, were brought out from the city in +large numbers. Major Smith and Lieutenant Tower, from a hill one +thousand feet high, in advance of Ayotla, observed the passage of troops +from the city to the Peñon during the progress of this reconnoissance. + +On the 3d a minute reconnoissance of the ground between the lakes was +made by the engineers, supported by Shields's brigade, who at nine +o'clock left camp to block up the Peñon. + +Captain Mason, supported by Sibley's dragoons and the rifles, and +accompanied by Lieutenants Beauregard and McClellan, examined the +position of Mexicalcingo, seven miles from the Peñon, pursuing the road +that was partially examined yesterday. This bold movement, almost under +the guns of the Peñon, and extremely hazardous in presence of an +enterprising enemy, was accomplished in the most successful manner. +After arriving at Mexicalcingo the party was joined by Captain Lee and +Lieutenant Tower, who, with a squadron of dragoons, had taken the route +of the lakes to examine the roads. + +Mexicalcingo was found to be a strong position, defended by seven +batteries, and entirely surrounded by water and marshy ground. + +The Peñon was minutely examined by Lieutenant Stevens, who entered the +inundation at several points, and succeeded in examining the whole +position, excepting a very inconsiderable portion on the western slope. +He entered the lake, and for a whole mile the water did not rise above +the fetlocks of his horse. South of the causeway the water was carefully +examined to determine the best crossing-place. Two were found where +water was not over two feet in depth, and the bottom very hard. The +positions of the several batteries and the paths of approach were +discovered. The position was even more formidable than it seemed +yesterday. Over thirty guns were in position. New batteries were being +erected, and stockades on the hill. The whole inundation was swept by +powerful batteries. Lieutenant Stevens was engaged seven hours in this +reconnoissance, most of the time within twelve hundred yards of the +enemy's guns. + +We all returned late, much fatigued with our day's work. The general +expressed much gratification at the information furnished by the several +reconnoissances. + +The general has not yet entirely decided upon his course. He listens to +everything, weighs everything, and, when he sees his way clear, will act +with promptitude. Pillow arrived to-day, and immediately proceeded to +Chalco. + +August 14. Little was done to-day in the way of reconnoissances. Captain +Mason and Lieutenant Beauregard were assigned to duty with the division +of General Worth, and joined him at Chalco. Lieutenant Tower commenced a +reconnoissance of the lakes, to determine the practicability of +transport by water to Mexicalcingo, but did not succeed in getting into +the canal of Chalco. In the afternoon Colonel Duncan arrived at general +headquarters with the information that the road south of the lakes was +practicable. (He had explored ten miles of the road with a column.) +Accordingly, the plan of the general to attack Mexicalcingo in front, +sending Worth's division around to attack in rear, was abandoned, and it +was determined to move the whole army around the lakes. + +August 15. Headquarters left Ayotla at eleven, and proceeded to Chalco, +Worth pushing from Chalco the same evening, and Quitman entering Chalco. +Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower were assigned to the brigade of Harney +for temporary duty with the advance. The engineer company also joined +the advance of Worth. + +August 16. All the divisions in motion this morning. The road around the +lakes was narrow and rough, in many cases passing through a narrow +defile on the very edge of the lake, on one side abrupt acclivities, and +on the other a quagmire, into which the least false step would plunge +one several feet deep. + +Headquarters, before reaching the camping-ground of Worth of the +previous night, had to pass Quitman's and Pillow's train. On arriving at +Chimalpa, headquarters remained some hours for authentic intelligence +from Twiggs, it having been reported that in marching out from Ayotla, +early in the morning, he had encountered a large force of the enemy +under Alvarez. On learning that Taylor's battery, in firing seven +rounds, dispersed the large body of enemy's lancers which made a +demonstration against Twiggs at the point where the route left the +national road to wind round Chalco, headquarters moved forward to +Tulancingo, where we passed the night. This village is remarkable for +its large and ancient olive groves. The olive-trees on either side of +the road, stretching out their arms, form an arch above like the elms of +New England. + +August 17. Headquarters reached Xochimilco this day with Pillow's and +Quitman's divisions, Worth advancing as far as San Augustin, and Twiggs +reaching Pillow's camping-ground of last evening. The road to-day was +extremely difficult, and required some working to fill up cuts, and +remove stones and other obstructions placed in the road. The march was +very laborious in consequence of the continual halts. + +Early on the morning of the 18th General Scott reached San Augustin, +called the engineers, observed, "To-day the enemy may feel us, to-morrow +we must feel him," and ordered reconnoissances to determine the best +mode of reaching the position of Tacubaya. There were two roads,--the +direct by San Antonio, which was already ascertained to be occupied in +strength by the enemy, and one to the west passing through Contreras and +San Angel, known, however, for a portion of the distance to be simply a +mule-path. + +Major Smith directed in person the examination of the San Antonio route, +assisted by Captain Mason, Lieutenants Stevens and Tower, and Captain +Lee that to the west, assisted by Lieutenant Beauregard. The +instructions of the general as to reconnoissances had been already +anticipated by General Worth as regards the Contreras route, who had +pushed his division forward, and dispatched Captain Mason, escorted by +Thornton's dragoons, to reconnoitre the enemy's position at San Antonio. +Whilst in the discharge of this duty two shots from a battery of the +enemy were fired, killing Captain Thornton outright and severely +wounding Fitzwater, an interpreter. + +General Worth immediately placed his division in the occupancy of the +Hacienda Cuapa, thus affording the most ample protection to the escorts +of the engineers. Major Smith now ordered Captain Mason and Lieutenant +Tower to examine the enemy's right, and Lieutenant Stevens his left. + +Captain Mason first went to the steeple of a church near by to determine +the best mode of conducting his reconnoissance, and then with Colonel +C.F. Smith's light battalion he passed over a field of pedregal to our +left, till he got a full view of the rear of the enemy. He traced paths +leading to Mexicalcingo, interrogated the peons, and came to the +conclusion that the whole position might be turned and the enemy made to +abandon it, by crossing an infantry force on the line he had just +pursued, and falling upon the enemy at daylight with the bayonet. + +Lieutenant Stevens was twice recalled whilst pushing his reconnoissance, +first, by order of Colonel Garland in consequence of an apprehended +attack from the enemy, and second, by direction of Major Smith, the +senior engineer. This officer did not deem it necessary to do anything +further, observing to General Worth that he had examined the whole +vicinity from the top of the hacienda, and had also interrogated the +residents, and was satisfied that the ground was firm on our right, and +afforded a route to turn the enemy's position. Lieutenant Stevens +expressed doubts as to this, and was permitted to go on with his +examination. He persevered until night, and found that the ground was +marshy, intersected with canals, and that operations in this direction +were not practicable. + +In the mean time Captain Lee, with Kearny's dragoons and Graham's 11th +infantry, reconnoitred the route by Contreras. At about a mile and a +half it became a mule-path, requiring to be worked to be practicable for +artillery, and on ascending a hill a mile and a half farther on, a large +intrenched camp opened to view at a mile's distance, occupied in +strength by the enemy, and completely closing the Contreras route, which +for the intervening distance passed through a bed of pedregal, a lava +rock of honeycomb projection. After passing the intrenched camp, the +road was known to be good. At the hill the party had a successful +skirmish with the enemy's pickets, and then returned to San Augustin. + +In the afternoon General Scott examined in person the San Antonio front, +and at his quarters that evening, after hearing the reports of the +engineers, he decided to mask San Antonio, and force the intrenched camp +at Contreras. Captain Mason alone of the engineers advocated the forcing +of San Antonio. + +On the 19th Twiggs's division, on coming up from Xochimilco, was pushed +forward to the support of General Pillow, already on his way to furnish +parties to work the road. The engineer company, with its tools on the +backs of mules, was ordered back from Worth early that morning and +assigned to Captain Lee, who, assisted by Lieutenants Beauregard and +Tower, located the road and superintended the working parties. + +Major Smith, assisted by Lieutenant Stevens, designated the positions to +be occupied by the trains and the division of Quitman at San Augustin, +now become the general depot and key of operations. Captain Mason +continued on duty with Worth in front of San Antonio. + +General Twiggs passed the division of Pillow just as the tools of his +working parties were being packed away, they being no longer able to +work the way in consequence of having come within range of the enemy's +batteries; and the engineers, now joined by Major Smith and Lieutenant +Stevens from San Augustin, advanced to and entered the pedregal to +examine the enemy's position. As observed yesterday by Captain Lee, he +was found to be in a strong intrenched camp on the opposite side of a +deep ravine, which, with the almost impracticable bed of pedregal that +intervened, completely separated the two armies. All the efforts of the +engineers, who advanced close to the enemy's pickets, Lieutenant +McClellan having his horse shot under him, could discover no other route +than the mule-path, completely commanded by the long guns of the +intrenched camp. This path wound through the rocks, and afforded at +points some little cover for men and guns. The pickets of the enemy were +in large force and well pushed forward. In the mean time a heavy +cannonade, shells and round-shot, opened from the camp. At this +juncture, with the rifles thrown forward as skirmishers, the howitzer +battery of Callender and the field battery of Magruder were brought +forward to a position indicated by Captain Lee to drive in the pickets +and make a bold demonstration, to cover the true and very different +movement, indicated by Lieutenant Stevens on returning from the advanced +position gained by the engineers under cover of the rifles to +communicate Captain Lee's request for the batteries, and before the +order to move forward the batteries had been given. This officer +(Lieutenant Stevens) observed to Twiggs, the senior officer in front, +"The true point of attack is the enemy's left. Attack his left, you cut +him off from his reserves and hurl him into the gorges of the +mountains." Major Smith expressed similar opinions. Riley was now sent +against the enemy's left, and the whole brigade of Smith to cover the +demonstration in front. Callender brought his battery into action with +extraordinary promptness and efficiency, and pushed it rapidly forward. +The heavier guns of Magruder could not be so easily handled, and great +delay occurred in getting them into battery; a position was found +partially sheltering them, and they were brought into action. Callender +was soon severely, and T. Preston Johnston of Magruder's battery +mortally wounded. Lieutenant McClellan, who assisted to carry Callender +to the rear, now took command of his battery, Lieutenant Reno being at +the time detached with the rockets. Lieutenant Foster also, at Captain +Magruder's request, took charge of one of his pieces, and when Johnston +fell, carried him to the rear. Both these officers distinguished +themselves by their exertions in pushing forward the two batteries as +well as in serving them. + +[Illustration: BATTLEFIELDS IN THE VALLEY OF MEXICO + _Contreras, Churubusco, Molino del Rey, Chapultepec, + Capture of City_] + +Riley was still struggling through the pedregal, Lieutenant Tower +guiding his brigade, and Cadwallader was sent in the same direction. +Smith's brigade, closely followed by Pierce, now came to the front, and +entered a cornfield to the left, three companies of the 3d infantry, +Captain Craig, being detailed as a guard to the batteries, and +Lieutenant Haskin with twenty men to make good Magruder's losses. The +fire from the camp--shot, shells, and small-arms--on the front was +terrible, and the enemy's pickets advanced in force, threatening the +batteries. The leading regiment of Pierce, the 9th infantry, Colonel +Ransom, conducted by Lieutenant Stevens, now gallantly dashed forward +through the fire that swept the path, crossed a cleared cornfield in +direct view of the enemy's battery, pressed from cover to cover, driving +clouds of the enemy's skirmishers before them, crossed the rapid stream +that ran in the ravine, and gained the opposite bank, within three or +four hundred yards of the camp. This important position it maintained +till dark, forming with the 12th infantry, the detachments of Craig and +Haskin, and scattered bodies of the rifles, the sole force in front; the +15th infantry, Colonel Morgan, having been sent in the trail of +Cadwallader immediately on the arrival of the general-in-chief on the +ground, and Smith with his brigade following at a later period. + +Riley on emerging from the pedregal came upon the village of San +Geronimo, through which he swept, and continued to advance in the +direction of a ravine that was found to extend to the rear of the camp. +In this isolated position he had two successful encounters with the +enemy's lancers, killing their general, Frontera, and awaited only the +coming up of reinforcements to order the assault. But Cadwallader, not +put in motion till Riley was well on his way, had barely time to reach +the village and hold it against the reserves of the enemy, estimated at +ten thousand men, foot and horse, which now came up from the city under +Santa Anna in person. The village, the key to the position, was to be +maintained at all hazards. Cadwallader presented a bold front and kept +the enemy in check. The arrival of Morgan an hour later, and of Smith +towards night, made the position impregnable against an infantry attack. + +About sunset Riley returned to the village, and Smith, now senior in +command, resolved to attack the reserves, but, dark coming on before his +dispositions were made, an attack upon the intrenched camp was resorted +to as an alternative. + +A dark and stormy night now closed in upon the scene, and the soldiers +in their dreary bivouac were placed in readiness for the morrow's work. +All thus far had gone on well. Worth in front of San Antonio maintained +the front and rear. Smith in the village of San Geronimo held the key of +the offensive movement to the enemy's left; his rear, thanks to the +pedregal and Pierce, still held in front of the intrenched camp, being +safe against attack. + +The general-in-chief returned at nightfall to San Augustin. Many bodies +of stragglers were to be seen on the field. Even the two commanders of +divisions, Pillow and Twiggs, failed in reaching the village, where +their commands were in position, and within reach of an overwhelming +force. As the fire of our batteries died away and they were withdrawn, +cheer on cheer rose from the enemy's extended line. Rain coming on, many +bodies of stragglers not being able to find their commands, the +principal force hemmed up in a little village within reach of the +enemy's heavy batteries and within striking distance of his large force, +for the first time a feeling of despondency seized upon the minds of our +men. Happily, General Smith, the officer in command at the village, was +equal to the emergency, and extricated our force from its perilous +situation. + +He determined upon a night attack, and sent Captain Lee to San Augustin +to confer with the general-in-chief in reference to supporting it by a +diversion in front. In consequence of the lateness of the hour, the +general deemed it impracticable to get any portion of Worth's command +upon the ground in season, but gave full powers to Captain Lee to +collect all the stragglers in front to operate as a diversion to the +main attack projected by General Smith. + +In the course of this interview General Pillow and General Twiggs came +in, stating that, in consequence of the darkness and having no guide, +they had found it impracticable to reach the village, and were obliged +to retrace their steps; Pillow adding that they fell upon one of the +enemy's pickets while thus groping their way, or came so near as plainly +to hear their voices. Twiggs, a heavy man advanced in years, fell into +one of the hollows of which the formation was full, and injured himself +considerably. + +I was present during almost the entire interview, having entered the +room shortly after the arrival of Captain Lee, and everything I +witnessed increased, if it were possible, my confidence in General +Scott. Himself on the ground till dark came on, he had grasped the whole +field of operations, and had determined to adhere to his original plan. +He listened with perfect composure and complacency to Captain Lee's +statement of the field, occasionally introducing a pertinent question, +and with the utmost patience weighed the various suggestions of the +officers, and particularly General Smith's plan of a night attack. +Neither General Pillow nor General Twiggs made any suggestions as to +what should be done. Captain Lee, having been in all parts of the field, +and having full information on almost every point, was, as it were, the +only person whom it was necessary to listen to. + +The general listened with equal patience to what I had observed on the +front attack. In the very commencement, and before the batteries had +been ordered forward, I stated with much emphasis to General Twiggs that +the attack should be against the enemy's left. "Attack his left, you cut +him off from his reserves and hurl him into the gorges of the +mountains." I, however, conducted the batteries forward, and with the +assistance of Lieutenants McClellan and Foster, placed them in position. +After reconnoitring towards the right in the attempt to find a better +path for our guns and troops, and without success, I returned to the +batteries, which in the mean time had been considerably advanced, and +were exposed to a tremendous fire of grape. The howitzer battery was +being served with great effect, and had almost cleared the ground in +front of the ravine of the enemy. But very great delay occurred in +bringing forward Magruder's battery and opening its fire. Everything +seemed to go wrong with him. The enemy's grape, within point-blank +range, in a measure disabled the howitzer battery, wounding many of the +gunners and finally disabling Callender, who was wounded in both legs, +and at this moment some little delay occurred in getting a supply of +spherical case-shot. The supporting party was reduced to some eight +rifles, and the enemy's skirmishers advanced. General Smith's brigade +came up, and entered the cornfield to the left of the battery. At my +request, two or three companies of the 3d infantry advanced to the front +and right to protect the batteries. Soon the 9th infantry came up, with +general orders to support the batteries, and were conducted by me over a +cut and open cornfield, under a shower of the enemy's grape, to the +cover of a ledge, from which, passing from cover to cover, driving the +enemy's skirmishers before them, they reached the ravine, and crossing +which they sheltered themselves on the opposite bluff on the edge of a +cornfield. Colonel Ransom showed great gallantry and force in the +management of his command, and to show the promptness of his command in +following him, this anecdote is related. Only some eight or ten men were +seen lagging behind, and these an officer of the regiment was cursing +most lustily to urge them forward. + +Just as the regiment had reached its position I met General Twiggs, and +we both ascended to a little ridge, where we had a full view of the +enemy's intrenched camp. Soon a shower of grape came in our direction. +General Twiggs remained in his exposed position without moving a muscle, +till I suggested the propriety of his stepping down to a little +depression which afforded cover. + +He informed me that Riley had been moving against the enemy's right for +more than an hour. I remarked, "I will go and find him, and bring you +back word of where he is," to which General Twiggs assented, and I +immediately started in search of Riley. I was, however, much exhausted +by my previous exertions, and the ground was of the difficult and almost +impracticable honeycomb lava rock, and I was obliged to abandon the +attempt, and returned to the advanced position of the 9th infantry. + +On an elevated ridge just on the edge of the ravine, and partly +sheltered by a cedar-tree, I had a distinct view of the whole position. +I observed the encounter of the lancers with our own troops (which I +afterwards ascertained to be Riley's command), and after an interval the +enemy's reserves advancing in great force. They continued to advance in +two lines of lancers and infantry, with clouds of skirmishers in front, +and halted, their right nearly opposite the village of San Geronimo. + +Whilst these reserves were advancing, there was an evident slackening, +and at length a total cessation, of our return fire in front to the +almost continual fire of grape and escopettes of the enemy. This led me +to suppose that a change had taken place in our dispositions, involving +great exposure perhaps to the 9th, and I returned for information. On my +return I met many bodies of stragglers, who could afford no information +as to the state of the field, heard the triumphal shouts from the +Mexican lines, and finally fell upon General Pillow and General Twiggs. +General Pillow was in much perplexity, was intent upon finding the +village of San Geronimo, and wished me to conduct the 9th to that place. +Not having been to the village, and dark coming on, I confessed my +inability to conduct the regiment as he desired, and after considerable +hesitation he directed me to bring back the regiment to the position of +Magruder's battery. I accordingly went in the direction of the ravine, +my chief guide being the discharge of the enemy's guns from the position +of the reserve; but that failing, and the night becoming quite dark, I +lost my way and wandered about, until finally I heard voices approaching +in my direction, which I soon discovered to be from our own troops. +Calling out to them, I was answered by Lieutenant Foster, of my own +corps, who informed me that he was retiring with a party of about thirty +rifles and 9th infantry men, having just been driven out from a small +building, higher up and on the same stream with the position of the 9th +infantry, by a large force of the enemy. At this time I was so exhausted +that I could walk only with great difficulty, and was obliged to abandon +going in quest of the 9th, and returned with Foster, who gave me the +support of his arm till we reached Sibley's troop of dragoons, near the +foot of the hill from which General Scott had overlooked the field. As +we wended our way along the rain fell, small bodies of troops were to be +seen from time to time, and everything had the appearance of a broken +and dispirited army. It, was perhaps the only desponding moment our +troops had seen since the opening of the campaign. + +After resting about half an hour, I returned with Sibley, and reported +what I had observed as above. + +During the whole of this memorable evening, not only was General Scott +perfectly composed and assured, but, in his intercourse with those +present, neglected none of the courtesies due to guests. All those who +came in tired and wet from the field he made sit down at his table and +break their fast. + +About twelve o'clock General Twiggs and Captain Lee set out on their way +back to the field, Pillow remaining in town to sleep; and on arriving on +the ground of the front attack Twiggs, entirely exhausted by his +exertions, sought a little rest, and Lee collected the 9th and 12th, +with some sappers and rifles, to make a diversion in front. + +This note-book is not the place for a detailed account of the brilliant +conflict planned by General Smith. Suffice it to say that, in +consequence of the darkness and constant rain of the night, the attack +projected to be made at three was not actually made till daylight. It +was eminently successful, and without doubt was the most brilliant +affair of the war. The principal charge was made by Riley on their +reverse and rear, led by Tower, and supported by Smith's and +Cadwallader's brigades, respectively commanded by Dimick and +Cadwallader, Ransom in front making a diversion with the troops that had +been collected in that quarter. The position was carried with little +loss on our part, and the whole force of the enemy either killed, +wounded, taken prisoners, or driven solitary fugitives from the field. +General Valencia made his escape with the lancers in an eccentric +direction, and was afterwards heard of at Toluca. + +Our troops pushed on in pursuit and soon entered the town of San Angel, +through which Santa Anna had passed that very morning with his reserves +of fifteen thousand men. After a short halt at San Angel, Pillow in +command ordered the column to move on Coyoacan, where an unimportant +skirmish took place. + +Here General Scott joined the column, and ordered a halt to reconnoitre +and bring up the captured guns. Captain Lee went towards San Antonio +with a dragoon escort to communicate with Worth, and I to the steeple of +the church to use my glass. Turning it on the San Antonio road, I +observed the enemy in full retreat, the whole road from San Antonio for +more than a mile towards the city being filled with troops, pack-mules, +and wagons. On reporting this to General Scott, he ordered Twiggs to +advance to cut off their retreat, and assigned me to duty as the senior +engineer officer of his division. + + + CHURUBUSCO. + +On the head of the column reaching the fork of a road, whither a party +of one hundred lancers had been driven by the mounted rifles, it was +halted and a very rapid reconnoissance made of the roads in advance. +Lieutenant McClellan taking the left-hand road and I the right, they +were found to lead respectively to, and directly in front of, a church, +which was observed to be occupied in strength. McClellan observed one +gun, and a prisoner taken on the ground reported there were two guns. +The engineer company was advanced in front of the building to support +and continue the reconnoissance. Whilst on this duty it became engaged +with the enemy, and the 1st artillery was ordered up in support. + +Thus the action, on the part of Twiggs's division, commenced. It having +been entered on, it was determined to make a bold and quick matter of +it. Taylor's battery was ordered up, and took a position in the open +space in front of the church. It was expected it would drive the enemy +from the roof,[1] and enable the division--Smith in front, Riley on the +left, and perhaps a regiment along the direct road--to carry the work by +a _coup de main_. This course, recommended by myself to Twiggs, was +taken. Some delay, however, occurred before Riley got in position and +opened his fire. Meantime Taylor, serving his battery with extraordinary +coolness and energy, was met by a terrific return from the enemy, who +poured upon him an unceasing deluge of grape, his whole battery +consisting of eight guns, one a 16-pounder. Taylor breasted it manfully +for an hour and a half, when, two of his officers wounded and many of +his men and horses killed and disabled, he was compelled most +reluctantly to retire. + +Soon after this Riley got in position and opened a sharp fire, producing +an immediate and evident abatement in the enemy's fire. The 1st +artillery had been in position from the commencement of the attack, and +was now followed by the 3d infantry. The work attacked in front and rear +by our infantry, all retreat cut off by Shields and Pierce occupying the +causeway in rear, Worth in possession of the _tête-de-pont_, Duncan +opening two guns on one of the long faces of the work, and Larkin Smith +directing a 4-pounder against the convent, the white flag was hung out +at the very moment the 2d and 3d infantry from the rear and front +carried the work at the point of the bayonet. Immediately the flag of +the 3d infantry was planted on the roof of the building; and over one +thousand prisoners, including three general officers, surrendered to +Twiggs. + +The battle of Contreras and the subsequent advance upon San Angel and +Coyoacan led to the evacuation of San Antonio. Whilst this was in +progress, Clarke's brigade, conducted by Captain Mason, of the +engineers, made a flank movement to the left, and cut the enemy's +retreating column of three thousand in two, dispersing the rear portion +and preventing its reaching the main body and entering into the +subsequent fight. Worth, with both brigades, now pushed forward with +great energy upon the heels of the other portion, till the column was +arrested by a fire of grape from a strong bastioned field-work of +fourteen feet relief and wet ditches in front, covering the passage of a +canal, and somewhat in rear of the work attacked by Twiggs, and which, +like the latter work, had not been noticed in the previous +reconnoissances. Both brigades were formed in the cornfields on the +right; the charge was ordered, Clarke in advance; and after a desperate +but short conflict the work was carried at the point of the bayonet, the +6th infantry and 2d artillery particularly distinguishing themselves. + +In the mean time Shields, in command of Shields's and Pierce's brigades, +conducted by Captain Lee, the Palmetto regiment in advance, pursued a +route to the left, and finally came in contact with the enemy near the +hacienda on the great San Antonio causeway, a mile from the +_tête-de-pont_. The enemy were in great force lining the causeway, and +the lancers advancing towards the canal. The Palmettoes advanced most +gallantly, led by their gallant colonel, Butler; but some hesitancy was +manifested by the other commands, who retired under cover of the +hacienda or crowded behind the Palmettoes. Notwithstanding the utmost +exertions of the officers, a pause took place at good escopette range, +and a considerable loss was experienced. The Palmettoes lost their +colonel, shot dead, their lieutenant-colonel, wounded, four successive +color-bearers, shot down, and nearly half their rank and file killed +and wounded. Finally the movement was commenced, the enemy was charged +through, and the causeway was filled with fugitives to the city. + +The dragoons, who thus far had continued inactive, now took the causeway +in pursuit, and the most gallant feat of the war was enacted. Captain +Kearny, in advance with a squadron, pursued the fugitives to the very +garita, where he charged directly up to a battery under a fire of grape, +dismounted, calling upon his men to follow him, and entered the gorge of +the work to take it by assault. Looking around, he found himself alone, +the few men immediately following him having been shot down, and the +remainder having retired in obedience to the return call from the rear, +which for Kearny's safety had just at this moment been inauspiciously +sounded. Surrounded by a crowd of fugitives, who pressed too closely +upon him to use their weapons, he retreated, making a passage with his +sword, mounted a jaded Mexican horse, and commenced to retire. Finding +that the sorry speed of the brute would long time expose him to the +enemy's grape, he dismounted and sought a better steed. Scarcely was he +mounted when his arm was carried away by a grape; but he succeeded in +making good his retreat. His first lieutenant, Ewell, had two horses +shot under him, and his second lieutenant, Graham, was wounded in the +hand. + +This was the terrible and decisive conflict of the war, and was a case +of a combined movement of all the divisions. The enemy's intrenched +works were carried at the point of the bayonet. Surrounded on all sides, +the strong defensive building attacked by Twiggs was obliged to +surrender; the reserves, vigorously pushed, fled from the field; and the +army, which in the morning was estimated to be 27,000 strong, scarcely +presented in the evening a sorry array of 4000. We could have entered +the city the same day had we chosen. But our troops had made +extraordinary exertions, our casualties were great, and the general +determined to operate against the city after deliberately weighing its +capacity for defense. + +After this disastrous defeat of the enemy General Scott rode through his +lines, addressing with terseness, brevity, and feeling the troops as he +passed them, who received him with great enthusiasm, and exhibiting all +that moderation and equanimity which has eminently characterized his +course throughout this campaign. Towards night he returned to his +quarters at San Augustin. + +All the divisions suffered in nearly equal proportion, the casualties +amounting to 1066, of which about one fourth were killed or permanently +disabled. + +The 1st artillery suffered most severely in officers, losing in all the +battles five gallant officers, Captains Capron and Burke, Lieutenants +Irons, Johnson, and Hoffman. + +It is probable the same and perhaps more decisive results could have +been effected, and with far less loss, had Twiggs and Worth stopped in +mid-career, and an hour been taken to reconnoitre the enemy's position. +Pillow and Shields with Garland's brigade and Duncan's battery +demonstrating in front, Twiggs's whole division with Taylor and the +howitzer battery on the enemy's right, Clarke's brigade on their left, +both making considerable detours, Clarke as a demonstration, Twiggs the +great attack, the causeway might have been gained; Taylor's battery sent +thundering on the enemy's rear, with Harney's horse and Riley's brigade +cutting off all hope of succor, the enemy's works and the reserves +inclosed by our troops must have immediately surrendered. Then, the +prisoners and their works left in charge of Pillow, all the other +divisions united could have been pushed forward in support of Riley, and +the city could have been stormed with little or no loss. + +This is expecting impossibilities. We knew nothing of the enemy's works, +but we saw them in full retreat, we pushed forward to cut off their +retreat, and, coming upon the enemy's intrenched position, we became +engaged in the very act of reconnoitring it. The result was most +glorious to our arms, and will, we trust, conclude the war. + +Major Smith, the chief engineer, was present during the battle of +Churubusco, and was distinguished for gallantry. He is suffering with +the same disability as myself. + +We were both exceedingly fatigued with our exertions, and were glad to +get a night's rest at our quarters at San Augustin. Shortly after our +return Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower came in. + +Captain Lee had made the most extraordinary exertions, having been on +foot for two days and a night without a moment's rest. It was almost the +only instance in this war I have seen him fatigued. His services were of +the most important character, not second to those of any individual in +this army. Lieutenant Tower, in his night reconnoissance and subsequent +services in leading Riley's brigade against Valencia's intrenched camp, +exhibited great resolution and high military qualities. + +It seemed to be conceded by the whole army that the engineers in these +important operations had done their duty, and that every individual +officer had shown a readiness to participate in the perils incident to +their service. In truth, the whole army, officers and men, were gallant, +and in several instances exhibited all the terrible energy of the +Anglo-Saxon race. + +The night attack by Smith, and the storming of the works at Churubusco +by Worth and Twiggs, are unsurpassed in war. The former was a rare +combination of science and force, the latter an instance of desperate +valor. + +I slept little that night. The picture was mingled sunshine and clouds. +The mangled forms of Capron, Burke, Johnston, and others whom I +personally knew and respected, I could not keep from my mind. The +experience of war is saddening. The terrible scenes of the battlefield +cannot be effaced from the memory. We realize the observation of +Franklin, "I scarcely ever knew a good war or a bad peace." + +Lieutenant Stevens gained great reputation, both at headquarters and in +the army generally, by the part he took in these brilliant operations. +His reconnoissance of El Peñon was considered one of the most daring and +complete of the war, and, as he modestly remarks, "General Scott was +very much pleased with my reconnoissance, and I got more credit for it +than I deserved." General William H. French (commander of the third +corps, Army of the Potomac, in 1863) writes of this reconnoissance, in +which he participated as one of the covering party: "It brought +Lieutenant Stevens conspicuously before the army. That night the reports +of the different officers of engineers were made to the general-in-chief +in person; that of Lieutenant Stevens was so full and clear, it in a +great measure decided General Scott to take the route around Lake +Chalco, and attack the City of Mexico in reverse. From this time the +general-in-chief recognized his ability and talents." + +His exertions at El Peñon overtasked his strength, however, and in +consequence he was obliged to ride for three days in an ambulance on the +march around Lake Chalco as far as Rochimilco. + +In the movement on the intrenched camp at Contreras, Lieutenant Stevens, +advancing with the skirmishers to reconnoitre the position, saw at once +that the decisive movement would be to turn the enemy's left, and seize +the road between the camp and the city, thus isolating the former and +cutting it off from reinforcements. Hastening to General Twiggs, he +urged this movement upon that officer in his earnest and forcible +manner, saying, "The true point of attack is the enemy's left. Attack +his left, you cut him off from his reserves, and hurl him into the +gorges of the mountains." The movement was at once decided upon. Riley's +brigade was directed to the right (enemy's left) over the pedregal, +followed by Cadwallader, and later by Shields and Smith; San Geronimo +was seized, and the dashing victory of Contreras was the result. +Lieutenant Stevens was the first to see and urge this decisive movement, +and his advice was immediately adopted by the veteran Twiggs. + +The terrific conflict of Churubusco, which followed hard on Contreras, +was brought on, or perhaps it may be said precipitated, by Lieutenant +Stevens. From the church steeple in Coyoacan he discovered the enemy in +full retreat down the San Antonio causeway, and on his report to that +effect, General Scott at once ordered Twiggs forward, and Lieutenant +Stevens to accompany him as his senior engineer officer. Leading the +division with the engineer company, he discovered the fortified church, +or convent, barring the road; the company became engaged, and, the +action having thus commenced, General Twiggs adopted almost implicitly +the suggestions of the ardent young officer, and gave free rein to his +efforts "to make a bold and quick matter of it." Lieutenant Stevens +personally led and placed in position Taylor's battery, the 1st +artillery (infantry), and other troops, greatly exposing himself during +the action. The position, however, proved much stronger than was +expected, a strong earthwork and breastwork being screened and partially +concealed by tall, waving corn, which covered the fields in front, and +cost the bloody and protracted fight before it fell. Lieutenant Stevens +did not altogether escape criticism for putting the battery where it +was so badly cut up; indeed, seems to have reproached himself; but his +superiors, the veteran Twiggs and Scott, found no fault, knowing full +well that great boldness and exertion are the price of great +achievements in war. General H.J. Hunt relates that, after entering the +city, a party of wounded officers were talking over matters, and +Lieutenant Stevens reproached himself for having too severely criticised +Magruder at Contreras, and remarked: "The very next day at Churubusco I +did worse myself, acting on my judgment and eyesight, which deceived me, +for I had not a knowledge of all the facts bearing on the situation. It +was therefore my fault that Taylor's battery was knocked to pieces." + +"Here, again," remarks General Hunt, "is his characteristic frankness +and honesty, and _sense of justice_ to others, breaking out, and +carrying him further than was necessary, and into doing injustice to +himself." + + ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE, 3-1/2 MILES FROM THE MAIN PLAZA + OF THE CITY OF MEXICO, Sunday, August 22, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--The great battle of Mexico has been fought, and + our arms have achieved a glorious triumph. Commissions are now + sitting to treat of an armistice that will terminate, as we all + trust, in a permanent and honorable peace to both countries. Mexico + is again without an army, and the gates of the capital are open to + us. Terrible was the conflict, severe our loss, particularly in + efficient and gallant officers; the whole army was engaged, and the + whole public force of Mexico struck down, large numbers of prisoners + and a great amount of material of war falling into our hands. + + My heart is filled with gratitude to the Most High that I had the + strength to do my duty with the other officers of my corps, and + that, although much exposed in three different reconnoissances and + two hard-fought battles, I have escaped without a wound, and without + any abatement of my health and strength. I cannot feel exultation. + We have lost many brave officers and men, some my personal friends; + streams of blood have in reality flowed over the battlefield. The + hearts of the whole Mexican nation are thrilling with anguish and + dismay. Such is war, so glittering and imposing on parade and in + anticipation, so terrible in reality. + + Puebla is about seventy-five miles from Mexico. On referring to the + map, you will find that the direct road passes between lakes Tezcuco + on the north, Chalco and Xochimilco on the south. At the Venta de + Chalco, about twenty miles from Mexico, the road turns off to pass + southward of the lakes. El Peñon, about eight miles from Mexico, is + a high hill entirely surrounded with water, along the edge of which + the great direct road to Mexico passes, consisting of a causeway for + about a mile and a half approaching it, and also of a causeway the + whole distance after leaving it, till we reach the City of Mexico. + + General Twiggs with his splendid division was in the advance, + followed on successive days by Quitman, Worth, and Pillow. In five + days Twiggs was pushed up to Ayotla, fifteen or sixteen miles from + Mexico, General Scott continuing with him in the advance, and the + other divisions five, fifteen, and twenty-five miles in rear. As + they came up (it required two days), they were held in reserve at + the head of Lake Chalco, whilst the proper reconnoissances and + examinations were made to determine the general plan of attack. The + first day, a reconnoissance was made of the Peñon, supported by a + squadron of dragoons, a regiment of infantry, and two pieces of + artillery. The Peñon was found to be fortified and occupied in + force. Captain Mason, of the engineers (my friend Mason), Major + Gaines, of the Kentucky volunteers (taken prisoner just before the + great battle of Buena Vista, and who made his escape only one or two + days before the march of the army from Puebla), and myself rode some + distance in the advance, and observed near the causeway some eight + or ten Mexican officers. We were at least three quarters of a mile + from the rest of our force. We advanced upon them, they curveting + their horses and advancing upon us. When within about three hundred + yards they discharged their pistols, but we continuing our advance, + they all turned their horses and returned full speed across the + causeway, carrying with them a troop of lancers. The whole affair + was very amusing and afforded much sport. It did not diminish our + contempt of Mexican prowess. + + The second day a splendid reconnoissance was made of the whole + country between the lakes, including the Peñon and Mexicalcingo at + the head of Lake Xochimilco. The particular reconnoissance of the + Peñon was intrusted to me. On my little horse, one of the most + enduring, spirited, and beautiful animals in the service, with two + dragoons, I went half way round the Peñon, and was for seven hours + within almost point-blank range of its guns, examining the different + batteries, determining the various approaches, and particularly the + character of the inundation. Frequently I was in the water up to the + belly of my horse. General Scott was very much pleased with my + reconnoissance, and I got more credit for it than I deserved. The + same day Mason made an admirable reconnoissance of Mexicalcingo. + + Our spies had given information that the road around Chalco was + impracticable for our trains, and in consequence thereof the general + almost made up his mind to force Mexicalcingo, and at that point and + westward, fight the great battle of the war. He, however, determined + to wait one day for additional information. + + Worth, who had now come up, was sent to Chalco, and a column under + the orders of Colonel Duncan reconnoitred the road around the lakes. + Our spies were found to have given wrong information, and the road, + though bad, was found to be practicable. That same evening General + Scott, with the whole field before him, determined to move around + Chalco, and ordered the movement to commence on the morrow. + + The prompt advance of Twiggs to Ayotla, the brigade of dragoons of + the famous Colonel Harney two miles farther in advance, and the + brilliant reconnoissances of the two succeeding days impressed the + enemy with the belief that the Peñon was to be attacked, and they + lost no time in filling the place with troops, and putting in + position formidable batteries of nearly forty guns. + + In the movement around the lakes Worth was in the advance, followed + by Pillow, Quitman, and Twiggs. The road was exceedingly bad and + narrow, in many places a perfect defile, obstructed by cuts, stones + from the hills in some cases formed into walls, and requiring great + patience, energy, and perseverance for the passage of the trains. + + The third day Worth reached San Augustin, General Scott and staff + resting at Xochimilco with the divisions of Pillow, Quitman, and + Twiggs respectively some five and ten miles in rear; no obstruction + of moment occurring either in front or rear, unless we except a + demonstration of a large force of lancers on the movement of General + Twiggs's division from Ayotla, a demonstration brought speedily to a + close by the opening of Taylor's battery. + + Early the next morning, Wednesday, August 18, Scott joined Worth; + developed his general plan of attack, and ordered the engineers + immediately to make vigorous reconnoissances of the position and + force of the enemy. He remarked, "To-day the enemy may feel us, + to-morrow we must feel him." + + Accordingly two reconnoissances were made,--one, of the position of + San Antonio, three miles from San Augustin, on the great southern + road to Mexico, conducted by Major Smith; the other, of the road to + San Angel, turning the position of San Antonio, and bringing us to + the next great and adjacent causeway to the west. This latter + reconnoissance was conducted by Captain Lee. + + The first reconnoissance was supported by the whole of Worth's + division. Captain Mason had charge of one party, I had charge of the + other. Whilst the whole party of engineer officers with a portion of + the escort were examining the position of San Antonio within twelve + hundred yards of its guns, and in the causeway itself, the enemy + discharged his battery of two large brass 16-pounders, blowing to + pieces the body of the gallant Captain Thornton, commanding the + escort, and severely wounding an interpreter. The second + reconnoitring party (that of Captain Lee) were brought into pretty + close contact with a body of the enemy, whom they completely + dispersed without any loss. Thus, the enemy felt us the first day. + Pillow and Quitman had now come up to San Augustin (ten miles from + Mexico), and Twiggs to Xochimilco, four miles in rear. + + It was determined to move the main body on San Angel, Worth + remaining in front of San Antonio, and by a vigorous combined + movement forcing this position and advancing upon Tacubaya. + + Accordingly, on Thursday Pillow and Twiggs were pushed forward over + a most difficult road, requiring much labor to make it practicable + for field-guns, and in full view of a large force of the enemy, who, + divining our intentions from the reconnoissance of Wednesday, had + intrenched himself in a strong position, barring our passage. As our + troops approached, they were brought gallantly into action. + Callender's howitzer battery was advanced to a very exposed position + for the temporary purpose of driving in a picket, was not withdrawn + in time, and, exposed to a formidable battery of twelve guns, was + entirely cut up, its gallant commander receiving severe wounds in + both legs. Magruder's battery of 12-pounders was in like manner + advanced and cut up. These batteries were supported by Smith's + brigade on the left, and the 9th infantry on the right. The 9th + infantry I led across an open field, exposed to the enemy's grape, + without the loss of a man. They advanced to a strong position in a + ravine, which they maintained till dark. + + Riley's brigade and the greater portion of Pillow's division were + pushed forward against the enemy's right to cut him off from his + reserves, and by a vigorous charge take him in flank and hurl him + into the gorges of the mountains. + + The whole field of approach was a perfect honeycomb of lava + projections, entirely impracticable for horse and difficult for + foot. Nothing was known of the ground. All the troops advanced with + difficulty. That intrepid veteran, Riley, with his gallant brigade, + pushed forward and encountered the enemy's lancers in large force, + repulsing them in successive charges. He organized his brigade to + charge the battery, but felt it his duty to await orders and + support. + + Smith, somewhat late in the day withdrawn from the right, reached a + village on the left of the enemy's position, to which Riley had + withdrawn, and was reinforced by the greater portion of Shields's + and a portion of Pierce's brigade. An attack under the direction of + Smith was organized, but could not be executed in consequence of the + gathering shadows of the night. + + At this moment, all offensive operations on our side having ceased + and no impression made on the enemy's line, their reserves coming up + in great force and bringing with them additional guns, cheer on + cheer rose from their whole line, whilst on our part there was much + gloom and despondency. Our commands were much scattered, our + batteries had become disabled, and every one was overcome with the + fatigues of the day. During the latter part of the day I was + reconnoitring in the advanced position of the 9th infantry, and, not + knowing the progress of the day in other parts of the field, + returned to the rear for orders. I found General Pillow, who seemed + somewhat perplexed with the posture of affairs, and gave me no + orders till dark was coming on. I endeavored to find my way back, + but could not succeed. I was so entirely exhausted that it was with + the greatest difficulty that I could drag one foot after the other. + Finally I fell upon a small party of rifles and 9th infantry, led by + Lieutenant Foster, of the engineers, who were making good their + retreat from a house somewhat higher up on the same stream with the + position of the 9th infantry, and from which they had been expelled + by a whole regiment of the enemy. On hailing the party, Foster + recognized my voice, and I concluded to return with him, but so + entirely worn down that I required his support. We made our way with + great difficulty, occasionally meeting little parties of soldiers + seeking their commands. It had already commenced raining. On passing + near the place where I left my horse, I could not find him, and was + obliged to pursue my way on foot. At length we reached some dragoons + near the foot of a hill, where General Scott had placed himself to + observe the field, and there learned that he had left half an hour + before for San Augustin, three miles distant. I inquired for my + horse, but could not find him. Foster kindly lent me his, and after + waiting some half an hour I set out on my return to San Augustin in + company with Captain Sibley's troop of dragoons. + + On my way back my feelings were not desponding, but I was sad. The + 9th infantry, called the New England regiment, who had gallantly + followed my lead, and had occupied for hours an exposed position, I + had not succeeded in bringing back to the place indicated by the + general. I felt deeply my physical inability to support + long-continued exertion. It seemed to me that I had abandoned a + body of men who were relying on me. The regiment had acted nobly, + and none more so than Pitman, acting as major. He was cool and + intrepid throughout. + + On my way home the rain poured in torrents much of the time. I + overtook my intrepid friend Callender, whom some men of his company + were carrying home on a litter. He seemed to be comfortable, and is + now rapidly recovering from his wound. + + On reaching my quarters, getting some supper, and changing my + clothes, I went to see General Scott. He was surrounded by his + personal staff, and was attentively listening to Captain Lee's + account of the state of the field. Soon after, General Pillow and + General Twiggs entered the room. Twiggs is a gray-haired veteran of + sixty, large in person, of rather blunt address, and of little + advantages of education, but possessing in an eminent degree + decision of character, great sagacity as to men and events, and an + aptitude for labor. He has the most splendid division in the + service, the fruit in great measure of his own unwearied exertions. + Captain Lee is an officer of engineers to whom I have before + alluded, and one of my mess-mates. He is one of the most + extraordinary men in the service. In the very prime of manhood, of + remarkable presence and address, perhaps the most manly and striking + officer in the service, of great grace of manner and great personal + beauty, he has established an enduring reputation. His power of + enduring fatigue is extraordinary, and his strength of judgment and + perfect balance are conspicuous. For counsel, General Scott relies + more upon him than any other man in the service. + + I never shall forget that evening,--Captain Lee in calm, even, + well-weighed words, giving a full view of the state of our force, + suggesting the various methods of reëstablishing affairs, and + proffering his own services and exertions to carry out the views of + the general; Scott, composed, complacent, weighing every word he + said, finding fault with no one's blunders, and taking in all cases + the best view of things, indulging in no apprehensions, and + exhibiting entire confidence in the ultimate event. At length + General Twiggs and Captain Lee returned to the battlefield with full + powers to retrieve affairs as their best judgment should dictate. It + had been proposed by General Smith, one of Twiggs's brigadiers, to + make a night attack upon the enemy's position, defended by twelve + guns and five thousand of their best troops. Captain Lee's principal + object in seeing the general was to procure his sanction. It was not + denied. On returning to the field, all arrangements were made to + carry it into execution. + + My dear wife, I am spinning out a long letter, and I must be more + brief. This night attack, in consequence of rain and the difficult + nature of the ground, was not carried into execution till dawn of + day. It was organized by General Smith. The reconnoissance of the + route was made in the night by my friend Tower, of the engineers. + The principal column of attack consisted of Riley's brigade led by + Tower. Two other columns were pushed in the same general direction, + one of which was commanded by our friend Major Dimick. In front a + column was formed of the scattered commands, mostly new levies. + + Riley's column pursued its way over slippery and uneven ground, + crossing two deep ravines, halting from time to time to keep the + command together. Finally it reached the brow of a hill in rear of + the enemy's position, and was formed in two columns, just as the + coming day disclosed them to the enemy. Immediately the charge was + ordered, and the gallant brigade made its terrible charge, ably + supported by the other columns. The contest was brief but decisive. + In fifteen minutes one thousand dead and wounded of the enemy lay on + the field, nearly a thousand more were taken prisoners, and the + remainder were flying in all directions. Every one speaks in the + most exalted terms of the conduct of Tower. Some say he led the + brigade and did the whole work. + + As for myself, broken down the evening before, greatly in need of + rest, I complied with the advice of Major Smith and Captain Lee and + remained in town, giving directions to my servant to be called at + three, in order that I might return to the field to be in season for + the fight. My servant did not wake me till five. One delay after + another occurred, and I was finally detained by General Scott to + conduct to the field a brigade of General Worth's command. We + started and had got half way out, when information came of the + brilliant success of the night attack, and the brigade was ordered + back. I continued my way, and finally came across Tower very + quietly eating his breakfast in company with Lieutenant Beauregard + of our corps, who was also conspicuous in the same attack. I rode + on, passed over the battlefield, reached the advance, and exchanged + greetings with my friends of the 9th regiment, who had felt as + anxious for me as I had for them. They informed me that they had + withdrawn to a safe place about nine in the evening, and were + engaged in the night attack. My friends of the 1st artillery, Major + Dimick, Captains Capron, Burke, etc., I also shook warmly by the + hand, and finally rode up to General Twiggs. I congratulated him on + the brilliant victory achieved by his command. "General Smith + deserves the whole credit, but it was my division," was his reply. + + The order was soon given to advance upon the San Antonio road, + General Twiggs in advance, the object being to cause the enemy to + evacuate it and open the way for the advance of Worth. I accompanied + the advance. We soon reached the village of Coyoacan, from which a + picket of about two hundred lancers was expelled. There we halted + till General Scott rode up. He proposed to wait half an hour to + reconnoitre, determine the position of the enemy, and the proper + mode of attack. General Worth had previously received orders not to + attack the enemy till he heard the fire on the other line. + + Calling for the engineer officers, Captain Lee was directed, after + examining a prisoner, to communicate with General Worth at San + Antonio, and I went to the steeple of the church to use my glass. I + turned it upon the San Antonio road, and observed the enemy in full + retreat, the causeway for more than a mile being filled with troops, + pack-mules, and baggage-wagons. I immediately reported the fact to + General Scott, who ordered Twiggs to advance, and directed me to + accompany his division. Twiggs pushed on, and I went forward with + the officers of the engineer company to reconnoitre. We came to a + fork of a road. I took to the right, Lieutenant McClellan to the + left. Mine passed directly in front of a strong building (a church), + occupied in force by the enemy; his led directly to the building. At + a little distance before me I saw the enemy in retreat, and we took + one prisoner, who informed us that the place was defended by two + guns. + + My dear wife, perhaps I had not better at this time go into the + details of the most terrible fight of the war, which now commenced. + General Twiggs has said publicly that by my reconnoissance and + efforts it was brought on, as regards his division. We all felt the + strongest determination to fight the enemy, and put him to a perfect + rout. At all events, it so happened that I was extremely active in + pushing forward columns of attack, etc. Our friend Major Dimick's + regiment I directed to its position. So with Taylor's battery. + General Twiggs, in almost every case, agreed to my suggestions. By + my efforts and those of the junior engineer officers, the troops + were brought under fire and the battle commenced. + + The veteran division of Twiggs, already engaged in two hard-fought + battles, the desultory and galling conflict of the day before and + the brilliant victory of the morning, exposed to the rains of the + night, and the whole without the least rest from the wearisome march + around Lake Chalco, came gallantly into action against the enemy, + intrenched in a position of remarkable strength,--a bastioned + field-work of high relief, wet ditches, armed with eight guns, some + of large calibre, and protected by a church converted into a + defensive building of great strength. Taylor, whom you knew in + Newport, came into action in most gallant style, and opened his fire + upon the enemy, driving him from the roof of the building. But so + destructive was the return fire of the enemy behind his earthen + breastworks that in a short time his battery was cut up, and he was + obliged to withdraw, losing many men and horses, and two of his + officers were wounded. Lieutenant Martin, formerly stationed in + Newport, lost his arm. Riley opened his fire with great spirit and + effect against the left; Smith's brigade, headed by our gallant + engineer company, against the right. Worth, hearing our fire, + hastened up his command, and attacked a strong bastioned field-work + on the great San Antonio causeway, and a little in rear of the work + attacked by Twiggs. The 6th infantry and Duncan's battery were + conducted directly up the causeway. A terrible fire of grape + temporarily checked the advance of the 6th, and compelled Duncan to + put his battery under cover. An attack was directed, headed by the + 2d artillery, to turn the left of the position. The whole command + of Worth was rushed to the attack, not in the most orderly manner, + and the greatest gallantry was displayed by both officers and men. A + continued blaze of fire proceeded from the extended line of the + enemy, resting on the two field-works, and was returned with great + spirit by both Twiggs and Worth. The roar of battle did not for a + moment cease, and at times the stoutest hearts would quail. + + In the mean time the brigades of Shields and Pierce, conducted by + the intrepid Captain Lee, were directed around the enemy's right to + get into his rear and cut off his retreat. The enemy appeared in + such great force that it was with the greatest difficulty that the + command could be brought to the attack. The gallant Colonel Butler, + leading most nobly the Palmetto regiment, was shot dead, and + Lieutenant-Colonel Dickinson was wounded. After exceeding effort + they were made to charge the enemy, the causeway was gained, and his + retreat cut off. In this action both Shields and Pierce were + conspicuous for their gallantry, and the latter was wounded. + + Previous to the attack of Worth, the work attacked by Twiggs had + been nearly silenced by the destructive fire of his two gallant + brigades, the gunners were shot down, and the guns were served only + at intervals. Still the church held out, and the line in rear was + not touched. Worth, after one repulse and at heavy loss, took by + assault the work on the causeway, the guns of which, together with + two from Duncan's battery, were opened upon the work attacked by + Twiggs. Shields and Pierce had now cut the causeway. Seeing no hope + of escape, the white flag was hung out, and immediately the division + of Twiggs occupied the work, taking over one thousand prisoners, of + whom three were general officers. + + The panic was now universal. Our troops pushed forward on the great + causeway, the dragoons in hot pursuit, sabring the enemy in their + path. They fled in all directions. The gallant Captain Kearny + charged up almost to the very walls of the city, receiving a severe + wound in the arm, which rendered its amputation necessary. + + This is a meagre account of this terrible fight, more protracted and + severe than anything seen at the Resaca, at Monterey, or the Cerro + Gordo. Our loss is great, some forty officers in killed and + wounded, and over seven hundred rank and file; nearly half the + officers of the 1st artillery were killed or wounded. Major Dimick + commanded the regiment in three battles and escaped without a wound. + + As I have before said, I was on duty with the division of Twiggs. + This veteran was greatly exposed during the whole contest, and was + conspicuous for his coolness and judgment. General Scott himself was + wounded. The chief engineer, Major Smith, was also conspicuous for + gallantry and good conduct. Our gallant engineer company nobly + sustained its reputation as the first company in the service. At the + close of the action General Scott rode over the whole field, + speaking words of encouragement to the wounded, and addressing the + several regiments as he passed them. On all sides he was received + with the greatest enthusiasm. His words were the eloquence of the + heart, and told with great effect. + + General Scott and staff returned to San Augustin, some five miles + from the battlefield, to pass the night. We were all greatly in need + of rest. To our great satisfaction, on comparing notes it was found + that not a single engineer officer had been touched, and only three + soldiers of the company wounded. + + Notwithstanding the great fatigues of the day, I slept little that + night. The battlefield was before me with its scenes of terror and + of blood. The gallant officers who fell haunted me. The loss of + human life was appalling. I reflected that with less precipitation + the works could have been carried with much less loss. I was + precipitate like the rest, and felt in a measure culpable. + + The next morning, after issuing the proper orders for the movements + of the troops,--orders given verbally from his horse to his aides, + and with admirable precision,--General Scott proceeded to the + village of Coyoacan, and there met a white flag from the city. We + then learned that consternation sat on that devoted place, and that + her army of twenty-six thousand to thirty-two thousand men had + become reduced to four thousand indifferent troops. The result of + the white flag was the appointment of commissioners to treat of an + armistice. This morning (Monday) the articles were duly signed, and + there is now every prospect that the war has come to a close. The + armistice is made by authority of the supreme government, and its + avowed object is to negotiate a treaty of peace. This armistice + provides generally that the two parties shall remain as they are. + Hostilities are to cease within a circuit of twenty-eight leagues of + the city, the guerrillas are to be withdrawn from the national road, + and our communications are to be free with Vera Cruz. + + Monday evening. I have sad news to-day. The first day of the + armistice the Mexicans have commenced trifling with us. The + armistice provided that our army should draw supplies from the city, + and in consequence we commenced drawing specie in exchange for + drafts. The Mexicans denied this construction of the article, and in + consequence, at three o'clock, General Scott gave notice of the + termination of the armistice (the articles guarantee forty-eight + hours' notice). The Mexicans dare not again invoke the power of our + arms, and will yield the point. But it looks bad. + + Tuesday, August 24. The commissioners have met again to-day, and the + articles have been modified to meet General Scott's views. + + Thursday, August 26. Yesterday Santa Anna issued a proclamation + referring to his great exertions to defend his country, and to the + circumstances of the present crisis, and stating his conviction that + an honorable peace would promote the best interests of his country. + Accordingly to-day commissioners to negotiate a treaty of peace were + appointed on his part, who are to meet our commissioner, Mr. Trist, + to-morrow. + + Friday, August 27. This has been a white day for me. The + archbishop's palace is a very good place for the general and his + personal staff. It has a splendid view from its top. But since our + arrival it has been crowded with the general staff and with a + company of dragoons. The courtyard was filled with horses, and the + whole place was becoming filthy in the extreme. The chief engineer, + Major Smith, and myself occupied a small, dirty room, which we used + for a sleeping-room, an eating-room, and an office. Accordingly we + determined to seek other quarters. After much inquiry, I fell to-day + upon a splendid suite of apartments belonging to a judge in the City + of Mexico, which I have secured, and am now occupying with Major + Smith. We have a large parlor, dining-room, two large + sleeping-rooms, a spacious kitchen, stable, and flower garden. As + throughout all Mexico, our apartments extend to the rear, looking + upon an open court, with one apartment only on the street. The house + is of one story, and each window extends to the floor and opens upon + the court. We feel quite comfortable in our new home. The + corresponding suite of apartments on the opposite side of the court + is occupied by the judge's clerks and law students. We have been + much indebted in securing these apartments to the good offices of + Mr. Jameson, a Scotch merchant of wealth in the City of Mexico, who + resides in Tacubaya. He is our next-door neighbor, and will make a + most pleasant acquaintance. Just opposite us, he is now building a + most elegant mansion in the midst of a garden laid out in the + English style. Last evening Mason and myself took a walk to the top + of an eminence in rear of the palace, where we had a most beautiful + view of the City of Mexico and its neighboring lakes. We both + thought of Newport, and of the thousand delightful recollections + that cluster around it. Mason is in fine health, and has greatly + distinguished himself in the recent operations. We both hope to see + Newport before the close of the year. + + Saturday, August 28. To-day I have for once felt entirely recovered + from the fatigues of the recent operations in the valley, and have + twice mounted my horse, and to-morrow I think of going to the + village of Mixcoac, some two and a half miles from this place, where + Pillow's division is quartered. Captain Pitman is there with the 9th + infantry. The colonel of this regiment, Ransom, is a very fine + officer. I saw General Pierce to-day. He was not recovered from the + effects of a fall from his horse on the battle-ground of the 19th + instant, but was able to be about. He was not wounded, as I have + before written. He is making a fine impression upon the whole + service. + + The casualties are much higher than any one anticipated,--over one + thousand killed and wounded (about 1060). General Pierce's command + suffered to the extent of about 160; General Cadwallader's, about + 100; General Shields's, 200; General Worth's, 336; General Twiggs's, + 260. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The flat roof on the convent and most of the buildings in Mexico + afforded strong positions for defense, being surrounded by parapets, + known as azoteas, formed by carrying the walls some four feet above + the roofs. The convent azotea was lined with infantry. + + + + + + CHAPTER XI + + MOLINO DEL REY.--CHAPULTEPEC.--CAPTURE OF CITY OF MEXICO.--RETURN TO + UNITED STATES. + + +The diary continues as follows:-- + + Saturday, August 21. General Scott and staff left San Augustin at + eight o'clock; on his way to Coyoacan, he gave orders that Worth + should move on Tacubaya, Pillow on Mixcoac, and Twiggs on San Angel; + and at Coyoacan, he was met by commissioners from the city asking + for a suspension of arms. It was granted as preliminary to an + armistice to be concluded for the express purpose of negotiating a + peace, and commissioners were to meet and adjust the terms of the + armistice. The general proceeded with his staff, and took up + quarters in the bishop's palace, on the slope ascending westward + from Tacubaya, and about a mile and a half from Chapultepec. This + palace is a favorite resort of Santa Anna, and affords an extended + view of the whole valley of Mexico. + + Sunday, August 22. Generals Quitman, Smith, and Pierce, American + commissioners, met the Mexican commissioners, Villamil and Quijano, + to adjust the terms of the armistice. After sitting through the + night of the 22d and 23d, the instrument was perfected, and signed + by General Scott and President Santa Anna. It provided generally + that the belligerents should remain as they were; that hostilities + should cease within a circuit of thirty leagues; that reinforcements + to the American army should stop at Puebla; that there should be no + interruption to supplies coming to the army from the city; and that + the American army should remain without the city. + + This armistice during the two or three subsequent days occasioned + considerable discussion. The army generally felt a strong desire to + enter the city as conquerors, and the foreigners of the city, + somewhat numerous, fostered this feeling. It was generally agreed, + however, by the most intelligent and reflecting, that General Scott + had pursued a wise course. Our object was not to make a conquest, + but to adjust the questions in dispute by a definite treaty of + peace. We ought, therefore, to do nothing needlessly to humiliate + them. Moreover, our entering the city would disperse the government, + and there would be danger that the country would become the prey of + factions, and that no party would have sufficient power to enter + into treaty with. Such were the views of our commissioner, Mr. + Trist. + + August 23-September 1. During these thirteen days Commissioners + Herrera and Mora, on the part of the Mexican government, have met + Mr. Trist several times to negotiate the treaty. Thus far nothing + has transpired to afford reasonable apprehension that hostilities + will again be resumed. The appointment of the principal men of the + peace party, Santa Anna's opponents, strengthens this belief. His + own proclamation announcing the armistice strongly advocates peace. + It is believed that, were Santa Anna firmly seated in power, the + whole thing could be arranged in thirty days. Unfortunately, he + depends almost entirely upon his army. At this very moment clouds + are overshadowing the heavens in all directions: Almonte and + Valencia have formed a coalition to the west; Paredes has returned + from exile, and is now said to be in the neighborhood of Puebla; + Alvarez is somewhere to the north; and a fourth faction is making + head towards the south. + + The Mexicans are great sticklers for forms, and, since the + conclusion of the armistice, they have sent back our trains several + times in consequence of some little ceremony having been omitted. + The first train that entered the city was stoned by the populace, + and there was some little difficulty experienced in getting the + train out in safety. An apology was immediately made for the + affront. But it was made the ground for suggesting that, for the + safety of our people, the wagons should be loaded outside, and that + our people should not enter the city. At this very moment there is + no communication between the city and the residents of the villages + occupied by our army. + + I believe that with patience and firmness on our part, and the being + content with the cession of New Mexico and New California, paying + therefor an ample indemnity in money, we shall get peace. We may + consider the relinquishment of the Mexican claims to the territory + east of the Rio Grande as the indemnity for the expenses of the war. + + September 6, 7. All our hopes have been doomed to disappointment. + General Scott, in consequence of the violation of the third and + seventh articles of the armistice on the part of the Mexicans, + terminated the armistice to-day at twelve o'clock, and the ball is + to be reopened. God grant that a similar sacrifice may not be + required of us as at Churubusco! + + + MOLINO DEL REY.[2] + + September 8. At daybreak an attack was made on the enemy's position + at the foundry, and after a most terrific engagement of two hours + the position was carried, but with a loss of six hundred killed and + wounded in Worth's division alone. In addition to his command, + Cadwallader's brigade was engaged. The enemy was in a position of + immense strength, their left resting on Chapultepec and the foundry, + their right on a ravine, a continuous breastwork covering their + front. + + The attack was opened by two 24-pounders on the walls of the + foundry, upon which an assaulting column of five hundred men picked + from Worth's division, organized in companies of one hundred men and + commanded by Major Wright, deployed and advanced upon the enemy's + line. The right, led by Lieutenant Foster with ten sappers and ten + pioneers carrying crowbars and axes, moved on the foundry; the left, + led by Captain Mason, on the enemy's battery of four guns. The enemy + were driven from their lines, but immediately retook them, every + officer of the assaulting column being killed or wounded save two. + Captain Mason had a flesh wound in the thigh; Lieutenant Foster one + in the leg, breaking the bone. The right of the assaulting column + having maintained its position under cover of the foundry, the + reserves of Garland and Clarke were promptly brought up, and after a + desperate conflict the enemy was driven to the rear of Chapultepec, + and the whole position fell into our hands. + + Drum's battery of two 6-pounders supported Garland on the right, and + with two rounds of canister drove the enemy from his battery. It was + then pushed forward three hundred yards beyond support, opening its + fire and driving the enemy before it, but was finally recalled. + Duncan on the left supported Clarke's brigade, and drove the enemy, + who was advancing, back to and out of the right of his lines. The + dragoons under Major Sumner turned the right flank, causing a large + body of lancers to retire under cover of a village to the left. + + I reconnoitred the ground to our left, and estimated the lancers to + be from one to two thousand. + + The attack had simply for its object the destruction of the foundry + (which did not exist; at least, no boring apparatus or furnaces + could be found), and the position was finally abandoned. The battle + was entirely without results; two or three additional victories of + the same kind would annihilate our army. It has filled all hearts + with sadness. Colonel Scott, Captain Merrill, Captain Ayres, Captain + Armstrong, and others have fallen. Among those most lamented is the + gallant Colonel Graham, who fell gallantly leading the 11th regiment + to the charge. Lieutenant Burwell, wounded in the assault, was + barbarously murdered by the enemy by a lance in the head. + + Duncan's efficiency was diminished in consequence of the precipitate + charge of Clarke's brigade on the Casa Mata, masking his fire. A + well-directed fire of round-shot from his battery would have driven + the enemy from that strong position, and thus saved us many valuable + lives sacrificed in taking it by the bayonet. There was great + difficulty in reconnoitring the position without bringing on a + general action. More guns should have been brought into action. It + was more a case for artillery than for the bayonet. An attempt + should have been made to reconnoitre the enemy's right, with a view + of sending round a column and taking his line in flank and rear. + + The loss to Worth's division was greater in this action than the + English loss at the assault of Badajos. + + On the 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th, in consequence of the occupation + of the church of Piedad by our troops, and the pushing of the + reconnoissances in that direction, the enemy was exceedingly active + in fortifying that front of the city from the gate of Belen to that + of Las Vegas, and even prepared cuts in the road leading to + Istacalco on the canal. On the 10th they had a very respectable + battery in position, and were in expectation that the attack would + be made in that direction. + + + CHAPULTEPEC. + + At a council of war at La Piedad on the 11th, it was determined to + establish batteries against Chapultepec, and carry it by assault, + then to operate against the city as circumstances should dictate. + This was General Scott's proposition, and was concurred in generally + by the officers present at the council. Accordingly, on the night of + the 11th-12th batteries were commenced, one for two 18-pounders and + one 8-inch howitzer on the road leading to Chapultepec, and one for + one 24-pounder and one 8-inch howitzer near the foundry. These + batteries opened their fire about eight A.M. on the 12th, Quitman's + division supporting on the right, Pillow's on the left. About 2.30 + P.M. a third battery, one 18-pounder, one 8-inch howitzer, and one + mortar, was prepared also near the foundry. + + The fire was returned with some spirit, and about eight A.M. on the + 13th the order was given to commence the assault. + + Chapultepec stands boldly out two miles from the City of Mexico, an + eminence two hundred feet high, having on its summit an irregular + work with a stone scarp ten feet high, the whole defended by the + strong stone building used as a military college. + + At the southwestern foot of the height is the venerable cypress + grove of the age of Montezuma, extending to within four hundred + yards of the mill whence Pillow was to direct the assault of his + command. At its eastern base was a formidable battery sweeping the + causeway of approach in the direction of Quitman's command, the + aqueduct and stone buildings affording cover to troops. + + It was known, from a daring reconnoissance made by General Quitman + on the afternoon of the 12th, that the enemy were in the occupancy + of this base of Chapultepec, five thousand strong. + + Quitman, with a select storming party from Twiggs's division two + hundred and fifty strong, commanded by Captain Casey and supported + by Smith's brigade, was to attack on the right, carrying the + formidable position reconnoitred by him on the 12th, and thence + sweeping up the hill to enter the citadel itself. Pillow, supported + by Worth's whole division with a select storming party from that + division, headed by the gallant Captain McKensie, 2d artillery, was + to break through the cypress grove, charge up the hill, and pour his + men into the work in conjunction with Quitman. + + At eight o'clock the commands advanced. In Pillow's attack, the + Voltigeurs, with Callender's howitzer battery, ran forward, and, + charging the wood, soon cleared it of the enemy's skirmishers. His + whole command now pushed forward with such unexpected vigor that, + before the storming party could pass them to take the lead, the + whole brow of the hill was covered by a dense body of men, who, + finding cover behind rocks and in the inequalities of the ground, + steadfastly maintained its position, swaying slightly in the effort + to get better cover whilst endeavoring to advance. There they hung, + like a cluster of bees, whilst a tremendous fire of artillery opened + upon them from the work. The storming party with their ladders now + pressed forward; soon they were planted, the gallant McKensie, with + his hat on his sword, pressed forward, drawing after as by strings + the whole command, who in a moment overleaped the work and drove the + gunners down the eastern slope, where a fierce conflict still raged + on the part of Quitman. + + Quitman, at the preconcerted signal, moved forward the select + storming party from Twiggs's division, a light battalion under the + gallant Major Twiggs, and a select storming party of forty marines + under Captain Reynolds in the advance, followed by the Maine + battalion, the South Carolina, New York, and Pennsylvania + volunteers. + + The brigade of Smith was in the adjoining field on the right, and + had assigned to it the duty of breaking through the aqueduct and + taking the enemy in flank and rear. The command moved up the + causeway, under a tremendous fire of artillery and musketry, till + they reached some old buildings of adobe, where they were obliged to + get a momentary shelter. From this position, a company of the rifles + and portions of the storming parties being still further in advance, + they opened an effective fire in return. As the volunteer regiments + came up, they were turned off into the open field on the left, + intersected with ditches, to the assault of Chapultepec. + + The New Yorkers and Pennsylvanians made a detour to the left, and + entering the cypress grove at an abandoned breastwork where some + fifteen minutes previously portions of Pillow's command had entered, + pressed forward and became intermingled with Pillow's command as it + poured into the work, as did the Palmettoes, who pierced the stone + wall at a partial breach made by a cannon-ball without scarcely + varying from their direction. + + Smith in his advance, finding two wide and deep ditches in his front + without any adequate means to cross them, and his force too small to + force the passage in presence of the immense force of the enemy, + veered to the left, and sheltering his troops partially by maguey + plants, opened a well-directed fire upon the enemy in conjunction + with the storming parties and marines on the causeway. + + Meanwhile Drum's battery, a 9-pounder and a 16-pounder, came up and + opened on the enemy, as did Hunt's section of Drum's battery. + + For half an hour the contest was of unparalleled severity. Our + troops, however, pressed forward, and, Chapultepec having fallen, + the enemy fled to the city along the Tacubaya causeway, and a + causeway entering the San Cosme causeway at the English cemetery, + some six hundred yards outside the garita, yet not till some of the + most resolute of their troops had maintained their posts even to the + interlocking of bayonets and clubbing of rifles. + + Quitman on the Tacubaya causeway, the rifles and 1st artillery of + Smith's brigade in advance, Worth on the San Cosme causeway, pressed + forward in pursuit of the enemy. + + Aqueducts supplying the city with water extended along both these + causeways, resting on arches that afforded partial shelter to + troops. The causeway of Tacubaya led directly into the city, and + with a strong field-work midway was defended at the gate by another + formidable battery, by the strong work of the citadel three hundred + yards distant, and by cross-fires from a formidable battery on the + paseo leading from the San Cosme to the Belen suburb, and on both + sides were almost impassable ditches filled with water. + + The San Cosme suburb extended even beyond the English cemetery, + where there was a formidable field-work sweeping the main Cosme + causeway and the causeway from Chapultepec. At the gate, and two + hundred yards without, were two batteries for two guns each. + + Quitman pushed forward his command with unexampled vigor. The + rifles and 1st artillery in advance, closely followed by the + Palmettoes, marines, and the remainder of the volunteer division, + were in close contact with the enemy till possession was effected of + the garita at twenty minutes past one. In this contest Drum's + battery, assisted by Captain Winder's company of the 1st artillery + as a fatigue party, was served with a vigor and enthusiasm + unparalleled in this war. The iron men of Drum pushed it into the + very teeth of the enemy's fire, and made it send forth an iron hail + that drove the enemy from all his positions, even the garita itself. + Drum paused not at the garita. With a sublime devotion, he marched + boldly up to the very citadel itself, and fell mortally wounded, + together with his gallant lieutenant, Benjamin, two thirds of his + company being disabled. In command of a battery only three weeks, he + fell universally lamented, the first artillerist of the army. + + The temporary pause in the pursuit on the capture of the garita, + considered indispensable to get the command in hand in order to + proceed against the enemy, who was still in force, gave time to + reassure the troops at the citadel, who were at one moment struck + with a panic, and on the eve of evacuating the position. + Notwithstanding the heroic conduct of Drum and the gallantry of the + rifles and Palmettoes, the terrible fire which was soon opened from + that work and the battery on the paseo compelled Quitman to withdraw + his troops to the shelter of the garita, where they sustained the + tremendous fire of the enemy till nightfall. + + The command of Worth, on the fall of Chapultepec, boldly pushed + forward to the San Cosme suburb, Garland's brigade and Magruder's + battery in front. A smart encounter was had with a considerable body + of the enemy's lancers, who were charging down the causeway. + Magruder was vigorously pushing forward his guns, ably supported by + the troops, and the battery at the English cemetery was about to + fall into our hands, when the whole command was halted. Worth, on + arriving at a cross-road leading to the Tacubaya cemetery, was + attracted by the tremendous contest going on there, and in + consequence halted his command to be in condition to lend a hand to + Quitman in case of his being sorely pressed. Timely assistance was + rendered by Duncan's battery, which contributed materially to + Quitman's success. Meanwhile a reconnoissance by the engineers + showed that the enemy had no artillery in position at the cemetery, + that the infantry force there was not formidable, and the lancers + hanging on the flanks were not worthy of regard. Soon the order was + given to charge the works. Our troops pressed in, driving the enemy + before them and with little loss, and pressed forward to the + batteries at the garita and in advance. Worth, on his arrival at the + suburb about half past twelve o'clock, finding that a continuous row + of stone buildings put it in our power to make a permanent lodgment, + and reduce the contest to the crowbar and pickaxe without exposing + the lives of the men, recalled the troops, and awaited the arrival + of the ordnance and engineer trains. + + A reconnoissance having shown that the first battery could easily be + carried and with little loss, the enemy was driven from it, and + Hunt's section was put in position behind it, and made to open on + the enemy's battery of two guns at the garita. But he was soon + compelled to put his battery under cover in consequence of the + superior metal of the enemy. + + At four the trains arrived, and immediately the troops, armed with + the proper tools, commenced making their way from house to house. + One party, headed by the engineer company, reaching the top of a + high building, forty yards from the garita, opened fire upon the + enemy at the guns at the very moment a similar fire was opened from + a party on the other side of the street led by the gallant McKensie. + The enemy was driven from the garita, but took away one of their + guns. At nightfall Worth's whole command was lodged in the suburb, + his advance within twelve hundred yards of the Alameda. + + During the night Quitman, in the erection of batteries and infantry + covers, was making every preparation to renew the contest in the + morning and to carry his attack into the heart of the city. + + The enemy, however, withdrew their troops, and at seven o'clock + Quitman's command entered the citadel, and, pushing forward to the + main plaza, the marines cleared the palace of the leperos, or + thieves, who were infesting it, and hoisted the star-spangled banner + from its summit. + + General Scott, who had been the master spirit of the whole + operations, originating the plan of attacking Chapultepec, giving + the order when the time had come to make the assault, from the + extended position of Chapultepec ordering the movements upon the + causeways, supporting each by an adequate force, and on a lodgment + being effected in the Cosme suburb ordering the resort to the + crowbar and the refraining from the bayonet,--General Scott at eight + o'clock issued his orders from the national palace announcing his + occupation of the capital of Mexico. + + Still, a desultory contest was kept up throughout the day from the + houses of the city by an intermingled body of soldiers and leperos + led on by officers of the army. Scott took the most decided means to + stop it, and ordered every house to be blown up from which a hostile + shot should be fired. At night the city was tranquil and in the + undisturbed possession of our troops. + + Thus the crowning glories of Chapultepec and of the gates of San + Cosme and Belen placed us in the undisputed possession of the City + and valley of Mexico. The public force of the enemy, dispirited and + demoralized, paused two or three days at Guadalupe and divided: + Santa Anna with a portion repairing to Puebla to try his fortunes + against Childs, the governor of that place, and to watch his + opportunity to fall upon our reinforcements coming up from Vera + Cruz; the remainder, a disorderly rabble, repairing to Queretaro, + where the government was to be temporarily established. + + The casualties to the American arms in this valley have been + immense,--2703 out of a force of 10,737, over one fourth, equal to + the English loss at the siege of Badajos. + + General Scott's movement against Chapultepec was masterly, and in + his plans he was well seconded by his generals. The removal of the + depot to Mixcoac, the concentration of the troops at La Piedad, and + the reconnoissances in that direction, impressed the enemy with the + belief that that point of the city was to be attacked; nor were they + undeceived till the very last moment, fully believing that the + operations against Chapultepec were only a feint. + + In the attack upon Chapultepec General Quitman's arrangements are + open to criticism. His select storming party intended for the + assault of Chapultepec, and armed with ladders to scale and + implements to break through the walls, were kept on the causeway; + whereas the whole volunteer force was sent in that direction, wholly + unprovided in every particular, and that, too, at too late a period + to be of much essential assistance, and in a direction which made it + necessary to fall in with Pillow's command, already supported in + great strength by the whole of Worth's division. The consequence was + that General Smith found himself too weak to break through the + enemy's force at the aqueduct and take him in flank and rear. Had + Smith been preceded by the storming party provided with plank to + cross the ditches, and supported by two of the volunteer regiments, + the slaughter of the enemy must have been immense, and large numbers + must have been taken prisoners. The marines with their storming + party, the light battalion, and one of the volunteer regiments with + Drum's battery would have been in place to encounter the enemy on + the causeway. + + At the garita Drum's battery and the Palmettoes were pushed forward + under the guns of the citadel, and large numbers were uselessly + sacrificed. + + On the whole, however, General Quitman exercised good judgment, and + gave proof of extraordinary vigor, intrepidity, and firmness. And he + deserves the greatest credit for his perfect mastery of his command. + + General Pillow's dispositions were good and well executed, excepting + that the storming party did not move in season, in consequence of + which the supporting force, pressing onward, gained the brow of the + hill in dense masses, and were there detained some little time + awaiting the storming party with their ladders, who in their turn + found great difficulty in pushing their way through to the front, + which only a small portion succeeded perfectly in doing. + + General Worth, in his attack upon the city, unnecessarily delayed + his advance to succor Quitman. Quitman was to be most effectually + relieved by the vigorous attack of Worth on his own line. On the + arrival of the trains, however, he proceeded with great judgment and + efficiency, and his attack alone, in consequence of being able to + work from house to house, must have of itself put the city into our + hands. Had it not been for Worth's vigorous movement towards + nightfall, bringing him well into the city, the enemy would not have + abandoned the citadel to Quitman without a severe struggle. + + Twiggs's command did not have the prominence as a division that it + had at Contreras and Churubusco in consequence of the brigades being + separated. Smith's brigade did good service in conjunction with + Quitman, and Riley at La Piedad kept the enemy in check during the + storming of Chapultepec, and, afterwards joining Worth, did good + service in the streets on the 14th. + + The engineers did good service during all their operations at Molino + del Rey. Captain Mason made a most daring and successful examination + of the front of the enemy's position, and in the attack on the 8th + was signally gallant, but the result showed that the right of the + enemy should have been more particularly examined. The character of + his defenses at this point was never known till our troops, in the + full tide of battle, were hurled against them, to be repulsed with + the loss of nearly half their number. + + Without shining talents, and without any remarkable decision or + independence of character, Captain Lee has rendered signal service + on this line. Laborious, constant, firm, of good judgment, patient, + and guarded in his conduct, of popular manners and address, he has + been a safe counselor, and always efficient in the discharge of + duty. Distinguished at Vera Cruz, the Cerro Gordo, and in this + valley, both before and subsequent to the armistice, he continued at + his post to the last moment, even when oppressed with illness and + great physical fatigue. After the storm of Chapultepec he received a + severe contusion in the thigh, which disabled him for the day. + + Lieutenant Beauregard is one of the finest soldiers in our corps. Of + great strength, accomplished in all manly exercises, well read in + his profession, and of forcible and independent character, much + self-reliance and confidence, he has established a good reputation + throughout the service. On the day of the storm of Chapultepec, + although struck several times and twice severely, he maintained his + post, and in the night supervised the erection of the batteries and + infantry covers, from which Quitman was to open his fires upon the + citadel in case the enemy had continued the conflict on the + following day. + + Lieutenant Tower, for judgment, for an assured and natural + self-reliance, great force of character, and great decision and + intrepidity in emergencies, has no superior in our corps. + Indefatigable at Vera Cruz and the Cerro Gordo, he was eminently + distinguished at Contreras. Subsequent to the armistice he was + efficient in the discharge of his duties, and the engineer officer + of Quitman on the day of the storm of Chapultepec; he was remarkably + intrepid under the fire of the enemy, and was at his post till a + severe wound in the head compelled him to withdraw. + + Lieutenant Smith, in command of the engineer company, has rendered + the most distinguished service. He has shown great power of command. + The engineer company has rendered the most distinguished service. + The engineer company devolved upon him in a state of great + despondency and discontent on the part of the men. By his judicious + management he breathed into it the breath of life, raised the + spirits of the men, and inspired them with hope and confidence. In + his hands the company has acquired a great reputation in the + service. + + His lieutenants, McClellan and Foster, are both brave, intrepid, + efficient, and devoted to duty. At Molino, Foster was dangerously + wounded in the leg. + + But perhaps no officer of engineers has rendered more brilliant + service than Captain Mason. Of remarkable intellectual force, great + quickness of apprehension, highly cultivated, an ambitious student, + and frank and honest in his life, on the field of battle, in a + reconnoissance of the enemy's position, indeed in every emergency, + he has been conspicuous for force, rapid decision, and the most + daring intrepidity. + + In my own case, delicate health has much diminished my efficiency. + Our long rest in Puebla did something towards restoring my strength, + and I entertained the hope that it would prove equal to any + emergency. I rode in an ambulance to Buena Vista, and subsequently + from Ayotla to San Augustin. My reconnoissance of the Peñon, in + which I was employed seven hours in mud and water, and within almost + point-blank range of the enemy's guns, was highly satisfactory to + General Scott. On the 19th, at Contreras, I was too much exhausted + and in too delicate health to remain on the field exposed to the + rain. I in consequence returned to San Augustin, and was not present + in the splendid attack of General Smith on Valencia's intrenched + camp. At Churubusco I was the senior engineer officer of Twiggs's + division. At the close of that day I was almost wholly prostrated by + my exertions, and I had not renewed the strength with which I left + Puebla on the termination of the armistice. At Molino del Rey I + accompanied the reserves to the field, and on Mason and Foster + becoming disabled from wounds, did duty during the remainder of the + action. Subsequently, in conjunction with Beauregard and Tower, I + reconnoitred the southern front of the city. In consequence of + physical exhaustion I was not assigned to duty in the establishing + of batteries against Chapultepec, but on the day of the 13th was on + duty till I was wounded, in the San Cosme suburb, about half past + one o'clock. + + September 13. At half past one o'clock I was wounded in the foot, + whilst posting a picket at a little work at a village some five + hundred yards beyond the English cemetery. Dr. De Lein cut out the + ball. It struck close to the little toe, and crossing over a little + obliquely to the rear, was cut out just in front of the instep. The + bones are fractured and the tendons lacerated. About half past + three o'clock I was taken to Tacubaya in an ambulance, and in the + evening Dr. Barnes dressed my wound. + + September 14. I was removed to the city this day, and placed in + comfortable quarters in the palace. I suffered some little pain last + night and through the day. I owe many thanks to Major Smith for his + unwearied kindness. + + September 15. To-day I am relieved of pain, though last night I got + but indifferent rest. Dr. Barnes attends me, and has commenced + applying poultices. + + September 17. Dr. Barnes, on examining my wound this morning, + observed, in a manner that showed he was relieved of much anxiety, + "I can save the foot." + + September 18-30. During this period my wound has done famously. I + have been in no pain whatever. News has come of large reinforcements + pouring in from below, and many expect them to reach Mexico as early + as the 10th proximo. It seems to me we cannot reasonably expect + their arrival till the 20th or 30th proximo. + + Santa Anna, some few days after our entrance, abdicated the + presidency in favor of the chief justice, Peña y Peña, and announced + his intention to go to Puebla, organize a force, and operate against + Childs and reinforcements coming up from below. No one here is much + apprehensive of the result. + + The general has found it necessary to issue stringent orders in + regard to assassinations of men, and to enforce the utmost vigilance + on the part of our guards. In some of the regiments the police is + bad, and the guards totally neglectful of their duty. + + A large city is ruinous to the _morale_ of troops. The officers in + our army spend the nights at the gambling-houses (tigers), and the + men indulge in women and drink as long as their money lasts. + + A camp of instruction alone affords the means of putting troops in a + high state of discipline and efficiency. Yet the occupation of + cities has great advantages. The residents become familiar with our + character and customs, and friendly relations grow up. + + October 1. This day I have sat up the first time,--a most agreeable + change from the recumbent posture. We hear news from below that + Childs has been severely pressed. Here, we are firmly of opinion + that he cannot be driven from his post. It is hoped and believed + that no troops will march up from below except in a strong column, + four to six thousand men. A small body might tempt the enemy. He + might fall upon it with a large force and gain some success. + + October 2-11. Rumors accumulate in reference to Santa Anna's attack + on Puebla. From all accounts, his troops are of poor quality, and he + is not on the best terms with his subordinates. My wound is doing + exceedingly well, and I have at length found an opportunity to write + to my wife and father by way of Tampico. + + October 12-24. My wound has been doing badly, and my general health + has been poor. For several days the foot became much inflamed, and + poultices had to be applied. The new flesh has sloughed off, and the + process of granulation has to be gone over again. At the present + time my wound is doing well, and the fever or flux, which has + threatened me for many days, I have nearly driven off. + + November 1. A train of six hundred wagons departed for Vera Cruz + with a large number of wounded officers and men, on their return to + the States; Generals Quitman and Shields, Colonels Garland, Andrews, + and Morgan, Major Smith, and other distinguished officers being of + the number. + + General Quitman leaves behind him the most enviable reputation. + Courteous in deportment, just in conduct, a man of business devoted + to his duty, he is second to no commander of division in this army. + As a military man he is said to be well informed, and to understand + well the principles of his profession. He has extraordinary vigor, + courage, and coolness, and he has exhibited great ability in the + management of the volunteer division. + + General Shields has all the dashing and enthusiastic bravery + peculiar to the Irish race. There is no braver man in our army. + Since entering the military service he has assiduously studied his + profession, and is fast rising as a military man. + + November 2. Yesterday and to-day have been festival (All Saints') + days. Word came from Colonel Childs that General Lane on the 29th + set out from Puebla with a column to meet the train, and that + General Patterson left Vera Cruz with five thousand men. There is + still an impression that General Patterson will assume the command, + and that General Scott will be recalled. But I discredit it + entirely. Very few cases of stabbing now occur. + + On the departure of Major Smith, with whom I have messed nearly the + whole time I have been in the country, I find myself entirely alone. + Colonel Watson (in command of Shields's brigade) and staff occupied + adjoining rooms, and we made a very pleasant little circle. Colonel + Watson is a candid, sensible, and good man. I esteem him highly. + Lieutenant Baker is a gentleman of much intelligence, considerable + acuteness, and of the most friendly feelings. They are now all gone, + and I am now installed in Colonel Watson's apartment. I am in a + spacious room, with three large windows hung in damask looking on + the street, and having at one extremity a raised platform, carpeted, + and canopied with damask. Here I have my bed, my table, and my + armchair, as comfortable as all the world. Indeed, I now very much + feel as if I were in the halls of the Montezumas. My brother + officers have most kindly offered to do all they can for me. + + November 3. Since the departure of the train the weather has been + beautiful. Captain Naylor this morning very summarily dispelled my + dreams of luxuriating in the halls of the Montezumas by saying that + the room I now occupied was needed for a commission, and that he + must ask me to remove to my old quarters. As they were exceedingly + damp and uncomfortable, and totally unfit for an invalid, Captain + Lee referred the matter to General Smith, the governor of the city, + who decided that I should not be moved till a suitable room could be + provided. + + Captain Naylor is an enthusiast on the subject of the regeneration + of Mexico through American intervention. As superintendent of the + archives, he avails himself of his opportunities to understand this + people. They are undoubtedly degenerating. The cities are falling + into decay; the mechanic arts do not improve; misrule and anarchy + have long been the every-day experience of this unfortunate people. + In the City of Mexico not a new house has been built for years, and + many structures are crumbling into ruins. + + November 4. My friends, Captains Lee, Power, and Hardcastle, give + glowing accounts of the scenic representations at the Santa Anna + theatre,--more perfect in the mechanical contrivances, and more + splendid in effect, than anything to be seen in our own country. I + regretted to learn that Captain Lee's man Peter was murdered in + Ayotla after the arrival of the train on the evening of the 1st + instant. + + The officers are hard at work at their drawings, and hope to finish + them against my going down in the next train. + + November 11. During the past few days I have been ill and well + again,--a bad cold and the wound inflamed. The doctor, however, + still confines me to my room. He considers that rest is necessary to + prevent my foot's inflaming. + + Information has come that General Patterson, on the 27th ultimo, + left Vera Cruz. He will probably require twenty days to reach + Puebla, and some twelve days more to make his arrangements there and + his journey to Mexico. I shall not, therefore, look for a mail + before the 17th instant. + + November 14. Nothing of interest has occurred in the city. Anaya is + said to have been elected provisional president. A piece of leather + of the size of half a tlaco came from my wound to-day. It was cut + out of my shoe by the ball and carried into my foot. + + November 15. A general order was published to-day announcing the + determination of the general to bring to trial and punishment all + officers who shall, contrary to regulations, furnish for publication + accounts of operations in the field, and censuring in the severest + terms the authors of "Leonidas" and of the Tampico letter in the + "North American." + + November 16. Colonel Duncan, in a letter breathing defiance to the + general, announced himself as the author of the Tampico letter, and + exonerated General Worth from all knowledge even of its having been + written till it was well on its way. It was not written for + publication, Colonel Duncan avers. Colonel Duncan was arrested in + consequence of these matters. + + November 18. The long-expected train arrived to-day, bringing me + three letters from my dear wife, and news of my little family being + in excellent health. Mr. Trist has been recalled, and it seems to be + the determination of the government to abandon all attempts to + negotiate a peace, and to prosecute the war unto the occupation of + the whole country. + + November 20. Much to my delight, I mounted my crutches to-day and + moved about my room. + + November 21. I made a call on my friend Major Kirby, and met several + of my acquaintances. + + November 22. To-day I got as far as the engineer office. General + Pillow is in arrest. + + December 4. Went into the streets to-day and was much rejoiced to be + relieved from confinement. Called to see my friend Foster, and found + him doing nicely. + + December 5. Went to the theatre, and was charmed with Cañete. My + friends had spoken of her in glowing terms, and I went prepared to + find her overrated. She is remarkably natural, chaste, and graceful + in all her impersonations, and I do not wonder that she is so very + popular with the whole world of theatre-going people. + + December 9. The train finally got off to-day, and proceeded as far + as Venta Nueva. Foster and myself have a tolerable ambulance + assigned to us. We got off late, the last wagons not leaving the + city till towards noon. The mules were a good deal fagged, and the + train will not probably get down so soon by two days in consequence + of the length of this day's march. Distance, main plaza to Ayotla, + fourteen miles. + + December 10. Proceeded to Rio Frio. Here I met my classmate, Colonel + Irvin, in command of the 5th Ohio regiment. The night was quite + cold, and, not finding a room, we were obliged to sleep in an + ambulance. + + December 11. This day went to San Martin, where we found some + excellent pulque. Distance, fifteen miles. + + December 12. Reached Puebla. Distance, twenty miles. + +1847. The diary ends here. + +Lieutenant Stevens's wound was far more serious than he, in his cheerful +way of making the best of everything, admitted. The ball ploughed across +the bridge of the foot, breaking nearly all the bones. At first the +surgeons were extremely doubtful of saving the foot. The wound was slow +in healing, and the foot never fully recovered its strength and +usefulness. Three times, at intervals of one or two years, the wound +opened and expelled pieces of bone. For many years he had to wear a +special shoe with extra-thick sole. + +The chief of the robbers who served as spies for General Scott, a man of +striking presence and romantic though blood-stained career, known as Don +Juan el Diablo (Don John the Devil), formed a strong attachment to +Lieutenant Stevens, and took care of him during a great part of his +sickness, and was devoted and unwearied in his attentions to the wounded +officer. + + ST. CHARLES, NEW ORLEANS, December 28, 1847. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--I have just reached this city after a four days' + passage from Vera Cruz, and a twenty days' journey in all from the + City of Mexico. I am in splendid health, although my wound still + keeps me on crutches. We are all going up the river to-morrow, and I + am full of the most blissful anticipations at the idea of seeing + you, the children, and friends. You will not see me for eight or ten + days after the receipt of this. I shall be obliged to stay in + Washington some days. Love to friends, and to Hazard and Sue. I hope + to see you soon. + + Yours affectionately, + ISAAC. + +FOOTNOTES: + + [2] The hill of Chapultepec, famed as the ancient country-seat of + the Montezumas, rose some two miles outside the city, and was + crowned by a strong castle. An extensive grove of huge and hoary + cypresses clothed its slopes and stretched half a mile westward, + the whole surrounded by a solid wall of masonry. Molino del Rey, + the King's Mill, a group of stone buildings, stood at the foot + of the grove, and the Mexican line of defenses extended thence + to a strong work, the Casa Mata, and far beyond it. It was + reported that the enemy had a gun foundry in Molino, and General + Scott determined to capture it. + + + + + CHAPTER XII + + HEROES HOME FROM THE WAR + + + WASHINGTON, January 23, 1848. + + MY DEAREST MARGARET,--At the strong desire of the colonel, I must + remain here a few days longer. He wishes me to go with him over all + the reports in order to get at all the facts in relation to the + services of the engineer officers in the recent campaign of Mexico. + I am able to afford many explanations of the reports, presenting in + a stronger light the services of our officers, which will enable the + colonel to present a strong case to the Secretary in matters of + brevets. + + The colonel and his family have been very cordial to me, and nothing + could be more grateful than the high appreciation they have for the + services of our officers. The colonel takes great pride in the + distinction which our corps has acquired. Indeed, the services of + the engineers have been so conspicuous that the corps has become + popular. Every one knows that the engineers have important functions + in the field. + + I have paid my respects to the President and Secretary, and was + highly gratified with my interview. The Secretary had a half hour's + leisure, and I took the opportunity to express my sense of the great + ability, wisdom, and patriotism of General Scott. The Secretary has + the highest admiration for his military achievements, and is indeed + a just and judicious friend to the service. + + I am boarding at Mrs. Janney's with my old friends, Gilmer and + Woodbury. Woodbury married Miss Childs, a very pleasant lady. Her + mother is also boarding at the same place, a highly intelligent + person, and the wife of Colonel Childs, distinguished for his + defense of Puebla. + + You may be sure I am very impatient to see you and my little ones. + Nothing but a sense of duty to my brother officers, who are absent + in the field, could have induced me to remain. I hope to reach + Newport within the week, certainly by next Sunday morning. + + Affectionate remembrances to friends, and love, much love, to my + Hazard and Susan. + + Yours most affectionately, + ISAAC. + + My health is splendid, my wound improving. + +The enforced visit to Washington was not without pleasant features. He +was received with the gratifying attentions due an officer just from the +seat of war, who had distinguished himself for gallantry and conduct, +and enjoyed the congenial duty of explaining the military operations to +his chief, and aiding in securing for his absent comrades the honors and +rewards they had so well earned. A letter of February 6 from his friend, +Captain Foster, is of interest in this connection:-- + + "On arriving at Washington I went immediately to Mrs. Janney's. + There I heard of you. They all spoke very highly of you, + particularly Mr. Robbins, who was very much interested in you. I + dined at Colonel Totten's on Wednesday, and Mrs. T. told me all + about your being here. They all paid you some very fine compliments. + Mrs. T. said she gained more information from Mr. Stevens than from + _all_ the other officers who had come from Mexico, your manner of + speaking of men and things was so frank and just. Miss Kate said she + was _delighted_ with Mr. Stevens; he was correct and reliable in all + he said. The colonel seemed glad to see me, and proud of the + reputation of his corps. The result of all this, I hope, will be + that he will give us two brevets, make you a major in charge of a + work, and send me as your assistant.... It made me right jealous to + hear the flatteries that the ladies at Mrs. Burr's bestowed on the + 'gallant Mr. Stevens.'" + +It was a joyful reunion when he reached Newport, and enfolded his dearly +loved wife and little ones in his arms. A fortnight later he visited +Andover, and one may imagine how his father, brother Oliver, and cousins +and fellow townsmen received the soldier, returned on crutches, with +open arms, and lionized him to the full. The country had been at peace +for thirty years, and the returning soldiers from Mexico, especially the +wounded officers, were received with mingled feelings of awe and +admiration. Writes a brother officer, "The boys look at me around the +corner, remarking, 'I see him.' 'There he goes.' 'The man that's been to +Mexico.'" + + NEWPORT, R.I., February 28, 1848. + + MY DEAR FATHER,--We reached Newport about half past eight o'clock in + the evening the same day we left Andover. I am now in my office, and + am devoting some six hours each day to official matters. My wound is + improving; I go about the house with a cane simply, and through the + streets with one crutch and a cane. In one month, or at least in two + months, I hope to be able to dismiss my crutches entirely. + + I hope in all sincerity that our difficulties with Mexico are in the + way of a permanent adjustment. The general opinion is that the + Senate will ratify the treaty. The only difficulty (and one which in + my opinion is much to be apprehended) is that Mexico, in consequence + of a pronunciamiento, may disavow her own act. I trust, however, + that such will not be the case, though I think it incumbent upon our + government to continue to raise and push out troops till the thing + is settled. Should there be want of faith on the part of the + Mexicans, we should be in condition to punish it with most exemplary + severity. Let our war measures be all pushed through without delay, + and let there be the greatest activity in raising troops. This + course of procedure, whilst ratifying the treaty, will make the + treaty an effective thing. + + Remember me to friends. Margaret wishes to be affectionately + remembered to you. Hazard has not forgotten your stories of King + George and the Redcoats. + +At this time he was being considered for the colonelcy of one of the new +regiments, which, if the war continued, would have to be raised. A +prominent member of Congress from Maine, Hezekiah Williams, writes him, +"I think our delegation would unite in recommending you. It certainly +would give me pleasure to aid in obtaining your appointment." Mr. +Stevens writes Oliver:-- + + "My policy is to get elected to the command of a volunteer regiment, + and get a leave of absence, so as to hold on to my present + commission. I should like to command a Massachusetts regiment and + put it through some good service in Mexico, should we be obliged to + resort to the alternative of renewing the contest." + +An incident occurred one day, when a light rifle that Mr. Stevens had +taken to Mexico, but had never used in action there, stood in good +stead. A mad dog ran amuck down Broad Street, frothing at the mouth and +snapping at all he met. The people on all sides rushed into the shops +and houses for refuge, with loud outcries of alarm and warning. Mr. +Stevens, apprised of the danger, seized the light rifle, hobbled out on +his crutches to the sidewalk, followed up the maddened beast, which had +now dashed into the hall of a neighboring house, and shot him through +the head, killing him on the spot. + +He might now reasonably expect a little rest until he could recover from +his severe wound and injury. He writes Oliver, March 15:-- + + "I am taking things very quietly in this most quiet of all places. + There is no danger from dissipation or over-excitement, and I need + not, therefore, be apprehensive of anything like inflammation in my + wounded part. My wound is doing exceedingly well. I can now move a + little about the house with a cane." + +That very day he received orders to proceed to Savannah, Ga., with the +view of taking charge of the fortifications on the Savannah River. After +his arrival there he writes Oliver, March 27:-- + + "I am here on temporary duty for a few days, and shall return home + next week. This is to be my permanent station in the fall. The + summer I shall spend in amusing myself. A portion of it will be + passed in Andover. + + "Savannah is an old-looking, handsomely laid out, and pretty + well-built place, the most important town in the State, and the only + one having much trade. + + "Colonel Mansfield will relieve me in Bucksport during the latter + part of April, at which time I shall bid adieu to my friends in + Maine. + + "I am tolerably well pleased with my new station. It is healthy + throughout the year, and I have no doubt the change will prove + highly advantageous so far as health is concerned. + + "The duties are trifling. The large work, Fort Pulaski, is finished, + and nothing remains to be done but to prepare a bridge-head of + timber, and secure the island from overflow by the construction of + dikes. The small work, Fort Jackson, will require an expenditure of + something less than one hundred thousand dollars in the way of + enlargement and repair. + + "My duties will therefore be comparatively light. Nothing will be + doing from June to October; so I shall be able to go North + occasionally to pass the summer. + + "The people are very hospitable, and I shall make many acquaintances + before I leave. I have an old classmate just rising at the bar here, + and many officers' families reside here." + +His next letter to Oliver, from Newport, April 6, is interesting as +presenting his view of Cromwell:-- + + "I am just back from Savannah after an absence of twenty days, and + return thither to commence operations in November next. The + intermediate time will enable me to get well of my game foot, and to + pass some little time among my friends. I go down to Bucksport week + after next to turn over the public property to Colonel Mansfield, + and I shall probably be in Portland on Friday, April 21. + + "I am rather late to answer the principal thing in your letter of + the 25th ultimo. Both subjects are good. I should think that + 'Individuality of Character' would be preferable, because its + handling does not require so much reading as Cromwell. With ample + leisure for investigation, I should prefer the latter. I do not know + of a single unprejudiced authority. Foster's Statesmen of the + Commonwealth and Clarendon's History are the best I have seen. + Russell's Biography is poor and inaccurate. Hume is very + superficial. Catherine Macaulay is a great bigot. Carlyle's Cromwell + is good, because it consists principally of Cromwell's letters and + speeches. Babington Macaulay's essays on the various statesmen of + the rebellion are good. + + "I like your idea of treating the subject of individuality. The + greatest example of the influence of a strong, original character in + moulding a great people in our own history is Franklin. It was the + strong, original characters of our Revolution that achieved our + independence. The many are always ruled by a few, frequently by one, + the wise, the strong man, or men. I have found in this view many + fine ideas in Carlyle's Heroes. + + "As regards Cromwell: he and he alone achieved the overthrow of the + Stuarts. Without him there would have been no glorious restoration, + as Burke calls the expulsion of James. The French monarchy would + have still been absolute, and the French people would have still + been in chains. Cromwell was bold, direct, far-seeing, a great + governor of men. Cromwell was vastly superior in the elements of a + great man to Hampden, to Pym, to Strafford, to Vane. A bold sketch + of Cromwell's actual part in the greatest drama of English history + would be highly interesting. Dwell on his great foresight, grasp, + directness, sincerity; his boisterous youth, his religious fervor in + after years, his unswerving advocacy of the rights of his neighbors, + which caused him to be called the Lord of the Fens; his unshrinking + avowal of his opinions in his early parliamentary career; his + extraordinary sagacity in organizing his Ironsides, the greatest + soldiers of ancient or modern times; his self-denying ordinance, in + which by a bold stroke he threw half-way, indecisive men from the + army, and sent it forth to victory; his earnest efforts to settle + matters with Charles after the forces of the latter were dispersed, + and he a prisoner; his invincible opposition to all ecclesiastical + tyranny, whether presbyterian or prelatical; his part in the + execution of the king; his great Irish and Scotch campaigns, + particularly the battle of Dunbar, where his famous rallying cry, + as the sun shone through the morning clouds, 'Let God arise, and + let his enemies be scattered!' spread dismay through the ranks of + his enemies, and brought a glorious victory to his arms." + +Now he enjoyed a month of the rest he so much needed. With his wife and +little ones he occupied rooms in the old family mansion, a welcome guest +to Mrs. Benjamin Hazard and her daughters, who always regarded him with +the greatest affection and admiration. As spring opened, he took great +pleasure in making a famous garden in the spacious yard behind the +mansion, having the ground manured and cultivated in the most thorough +manner, and planting the greatest profusion of vegetables. His friend +Mason was also in Newport, recovering from his wound, and many were the +accounts and discussions had with him and Mr. Brooks and other congenial +spirits of the stirring scenes of the war. + +Major Stevens was fully convinced of the justice and necessity of the +Mexican war. The repeated depredations by Mexico upon Americans, and her +long-continued refusal or evasion of all redress; her publicly declared +purpose of conquering the republic of Texas after its independence had +been established and acknowledged for ten years; her arrogant demand +that the United States should not admit Texas to the Union, and her +still more arrogant threat that she would regard such admission as an +act of war; the departure of her minister from Washington; and the +breaking off of all friendly relations instantly upon the passage by +Congress of the resolution admitting the Lone Star State,--left no +alternative but to bring the inflated and treacherous pronunciamientos +to terms by force of arms, since they were amenable neither to justice +nor reason, and to "conquer a peace" which even they would have to +respect. And, glorious as were her arms, not less creditable were the +moderation and magnanimity of the Great Republic, when Mexico, her +armies destroyed, her capital taken, lay prostrate, in paying a large +indemnity for the far-distant and almost tenantless regions of New +Mexico and California, which, while ready to fall from Mexico's feeble +grasp, were essential to the expansion of the populous and fast-growing +Republic of the North. + +In the latter part of May he visited Boston and Andover with his little +son. + +The following month the Savannah orders were countermanded, the Engineer +Department deeming it best that he should continue in charge of Fort +Knox, and the other works in Maine and New Hampshire. + +After a preliminary visit, he moved his family again to Bucksport, in +June, and occupied a cottage at the fort opposite the town. + +He gathered about him his former assistants, A.W. Tinkham and John Lee, +and continued in charge of the works for upwards of five years. + +Having a strong desire to own a home of his own, he purchased a house, +with a generous lot of half an acre, overlooking the river. The house +was of two stories, seven rooms, with a barn in the rear connected by a +woodshed. The principal wharf was at the foot of the street, and here +Major Stevens kept his boat. The house had an ill repute as being +unhealthy, some of the former inmates having died from consumption. When +cautioned on this score, he replied: "It is high time some one took the +house who can give it a good reputation." He had the cellar and grounds +thoroughly drained, sunk a well, blasting through a ledge of rock, and +put the grounds and garden in fine order. He took great pains with, and +pleasure in, the garden, raising all kinds of vegetables. They kept +poultry also, and among them was a flock of twelve ducklings that every +day solemnly waddled down to the river in single file, and as solemnly +waddled up the hill again after their daily bath and paddling in the +river, an unceasing source of interest and pleasure to the children. + +The government was contemplating the fortification of the more important +points on the Pacific coast, and to an inquiry as to his willingness to +be sent to that distant field, he writes the following characteristic +reply:-- + + "As regards engineer duty on the Pacific coast for a year or two, I + should be well pleased with it did I feel certain that I was + physically in condition to undertake it. If the passage thither + should be an easy one, as mostly by sea, I have little doubt that on + my arrival at the scene of my duties my lameness would be + essentially gone. If the journey should be overland, I should hardly + be able to bear the fatigues of it in less than two or three months. + If ordered, I should go _without hesitation_, and do the best I + could. I must leave this matter entirely with you. No officer should + feel at liberty to decline a distant duty of this kind, and in this + case, as in all others, let the public interests alone have weight." + +Ambitious he was, but with a lofty ambition, not to aggrandize himself, +but to serve his country, ever ready to sacrifice personal interests and +feelings to the public service. In this and other letters he displays a +certain impatience that personal convenience or interests should be +consulted at all in matters of public duty. + +When the brevets were announced, Lieutenant Stevens was brevetted +"Captain, August 20, 1847, for gallant and meritorious conduct in the +battles of Contreras and Churubusco," and "Major, September 13, 1847, +for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battle of Chapultepec." + +He took great pains to secure justice to all the engineer officers in +the way of brevets, conceiving that he was in a measure responsible +therefor because, as adjutant of the corps in Mexico, the engineer +reports had been made through him; he had had charge of the records, and +had been closely consulted by the chief, General Totten, and spent no +little time and effort in behalf of those who had been overlooked. + +The engineers felt themselves treated with injustice in the matter of +brevet pay, for while the officers of artillery, cavalry, and infantry +were allowed full pay when assigned to duty according to their brevet +rank, the former were denied the same right, although frequently placed +in charge of works and assigned to duties above their nominal rank. They +had other grievances, too, in the allowances for rations, horses, etc. +One so disinterested and indefatigable in behalf of his corps and +brother officers as Major Stevens would be sure to be often called upon. +He took great interest in these matters, and even more in the general +reorganization of the army, upon which he corresponded and consulted +largely with able and public-spirited young officers of other corps as +well as his own. + +It was not until November that his friend and classmate, Lieutenant J.F. +Gilmer, relieved him of the vouchers and papers relating to Savannah +forts. Writing from Washington, November 6, Gilmer says: "Captain Fred. +A. Smith would like much to have you here this winter. It is possible +you may do the corps a great service by being in Washington this +winter." + +A call for service in any direction always appealed strongly to him, and +accordingly he determined to visit Washington, as he writes his brother +Oliver, under date of Bucksport, December 8, 1848. This letter displays +a humorous vein not usual with him, and gives his view of the character +and public policy of General Taylor, then just elected President:-- + + MY DEAR BROTHER,--I rejoice to learn that you are still in the land + of the living, and that that severe and noble pursuit, the law, does + not prevent your seeing the lions of the town. But you are very + cruel to triumph over us benighted creatures in this region of + frosts and snows. In truth we lead a quiet, rational, country life, + perhaps as much to be envied as the more attractive life of the + great city. I wish you, however, distinctly to understand that we do + not suck our paws during the winter, and I feel bound to disabuse + you of this misapprehension. That is done still farther down East, I + believe. We do not sleep more than twelve or at most fourteen hours + a day. We manage to eat three meals per day. But it is hard work; + they approximate rather too closely. We drink tea nights, and eat + apples mornings. We get the newspapers generally every day, and + expect to read the Message to-morrow. By way of diversion, we slide + down hill on a moonlight evening. Then there are prayer and + conference meetings _ad libitum_. What a consolation these latter + privileges would be to one of your serious turn of mind! I can + almost see your grave countenance lighted up with heavenly radiance + on such an occasion. + + By the bye, I hope to see you in about four weeks, as I pass on to + Washington. There I shall probably remain till after the + inauguration. I find in the election of General Taylor the great + fact indicated that we poor devils in the army are citizens of the + country, and eligible to civil offices of trust. I should have voted + most cordially for General Cass, had I a vote to throw. His election + I vastly preferred. But there has been in this canvass a vast deal + of nonsense about the camp not being the place to find our + Presidents, and I am much mistaken if General Taylor, in his own + person, does not prove a happy instance of the mingling of military + and administrative ability. And those miserable hacks of party, who + have sought to depreciate his military services and talents, have + now the consolation to reflect that their efforts at detraction + served to promote his election, as it did that of General Harrison. + + "I unhesitatingly believe that General Taylor will administer the + government in an able, impartial, and patriotic manner, and if + during his presidency an emergency arises, he will prove a + hero-President as he has proved a hero-soldier. The Democratic party + ought not to prejudge him. Let them maintain a firm attitude in + Congress, and keep well organized everywhere. The Whigs cannot carry + any of their favorite measures through Congress for two years at + least. We may then have a Democratic Congress, and, my word for it, + there will be no collision between such a Congress and General + Taylor. On that great cluster of questions, the public lands, the + encouragement and protection of distant settlements, the development + of the great Pacific coast, the old man will be right. If the + Democratic party will show candor and liberality towards General + Taylor, he may be their nominee four years from this time." + +As one result of his visit to Washington, Major Stevens took hold of the +brevet pay question in his usual thoroughgoing and indefatigable manner. +He first corresponded with every brevetted officer of the corps whom he +had not already consulted personally. Having thus learned their views, +he prepared a strong memorial on the subject, which, after being +submitted to, and warmly approved by, Colonels Thayer and Mansfield and +Major Tower, was sent to all the officers for their signatures. And in +July he transmitted the memorial to General Totten, signed by every +brevetted officer of the corps save one, with an urgent letter asking +his interposition with the War Department in their behalf. + +It was the intention, in case the department denied the application, to +appeal to Congress, but the manifest justice of the cause as presented +was unanswerable. The department, after some doubts, concluded that it +had the necessary authority under the law regulating brevet pay, and at +length the engineers were placed on an equality with the other arms in +this respect. His brother officers conceded that the gratifying triumph +was due to the well-directed and persistent efforts of Major Stevens, +and showered upon him their warm thanks and applause. This success, +however, was followed by more and more frequent applications from them +and others for assistance and advice in their own personal matters. He +never failed to expend his thought, energy, and time in every deserving +case as promptly and freely as, ay, far more than, if he was working for +himself, and he never shunned, nor complained of, these gratuitous +tasks, which in the next few years became a great burden, but always +seemed to take real pleasure and satisfaction in helping others, even +many who had little or no claim upon him. + +In April writes Captain George B. McClellan, who was stationed at West +Point with the engineer company, an urgent appeal to Major Stevens to +use his influence to have the company ordered away from the Point, and +to Fort Schuyler:-- + + MY DEAR STEVENS,--The detachment of artillery (laborers) stationed + here are to be transferred to the engineer company,--at least so + many as may be necessary to fill up the company. On our company then + will it devolve to do all the police of the Point, to make the + roads, drive the carts, feed the oxen, work in the blacksmith and + carpenter shops, etc., etc.,--in plain terms, the engineer company + is destroyed; it has become a company of mud-diggers; it will no + longer be an engineer company, for it will be impossible to do + military duty, and no instruction in the duties of engineer troops + can be given them. The object of the whole business is to get + Shover's company of light artillery ordered on here, and we are + sacrificed to attain that object. + + This is a matter that concerns equally all the officers of our + corps. We are disgraced if this order is allowed to remain in force, + and I beg of you to use whatever influence you may possess in + Washington to have the order rescinded, and the company ordered away + from here. I am in haste, + + Truly your friend, + GEORGE B. MCCLELLAN. + +Partly in response to this letter, but more to express his own views as +to the true policy in regard to engineer troops, Major Stevens writes at +length to General Totten. It is characteristic that he does not treat +the matter from McClellan's narrow, personal standpoint, but at once +elevates the whole subject to a discussion of the requirements of the +service. After referring to his intimate association with the engineer +company in its organization and in Mexico, he continues:-- + + "I think every one owes something to his profession. Something is + due to my profession, not inferior certainly in dignity to any + other. I would endeavor to discharge it according to my ability. It + will be in this spirit that I shall submit the following + observations. In this spirit will I from time to time communicate + with the department on this and other topics appertaining to the + noble profession of arms, not doubting that my suggestions will be + kindly received. + + "By law, the engineer company is restricted to one hundred men, a + number entirely inadequate even to the duties of peace.... The + remedy I would propose is this: Let the utmost care be exercised in + enlisting men. Let no man be enlisted who cannot in due course of + time be made a non-commissioned officer. Let there be in no case + transfers from other branches of the service. Let the whole strength + of the officers of the company be applied to discipline and instruct + the men, so that in time of need we shall have a band of splendid + non-commissioned officers, the peers of Everett and Hastings and + Starr,--men who have received commissions for their gallant services + in Mexico, and each of whom, had Smith and McClellan and Foster + fallen, could have gloriously led on the company to its duty. + + "I would propose a complete system of practical instruction six or + seven months of the year, sapping, mining, and pontooneering, and + the whole subject of field-works, at some suitable place, say Fort + Schuyler, and a course of theoretical instruction the remaining five + months, embracing an elementary course of mathematics (including + drawing, surveying, and the use of instruments) and of engineering. + There should also be a good general and military library. As regards + the library, the corps could be applied to for aid, if necessary. I + will for one, and I doubt not many officers would, liberally make + donations. + + "Even if the engineer arm were increased to four companies, which I + trust will be done the next session of Congress, I would recommend + this course. The fine practical education which would thus be + secured would induce men to enlist. And we shall have the + satisfaction that in the next war with England, and when the + question is to besiege Montreal, Quebec, and Halifax, our four + companies can be soon converted into twenty companies." + +Ever since his return from Mexico, Major Stevens was deeply interested +in the reorganization of the army. Even while so vigorously fighting for +his corps in the matter of brevet pay, in discussions and correspondence +with Mansfield, Mason, Tower, G.W. Smith, F.A. Smith, Beauregard, Hunt, +and others, after disposing of this particular grievance he would +enlarge upon the reorganization of the whole army, giving his own ideas, +and urging them as a patriotic duty, not as members of any corps, but +from the standpoint of the whole army, to prepare memoirs, or letters, +giving their views. + +He advocated an organization that would admit of fourfold extension in +case of war; the keeping of at least one third of the troops in camps of +drill and instruction in order to maintain the highest degree of +military knowledge and discipline; and the raising of the standard of +the rank and file, attracting thereby American-born young men as +soldiers by increased pay, better instruction, and greater opportunities +for advancement, even to conferring commissions in meritorious cases. +These letters and replies, particularly a memoir by Hunt (afterwards the +distinguished general, Henry J. Hunt, chief of artillery of the Army of +the Potomac), are full of interest and instruction. The army, with all +the improvements adopted in recent years, has not yet reached the +standard set by these patriotic and able young officers fifty years ago. +How Major Stevens followed up these preliminary efforts will appear +hereafter. + + + + + CHAPTER XIII + + COAST SURVEY + + +During the summer Professor A.D. Bache, the distinguished scientist, +chief of the United States Coast Survey, found himself obliged to obtain +a new "assistant in charge of the Coast Survey Office," the second +position on the survey, in place of Captain A.A. Humphreys, of the +topographical engineers, who under the labors of that office had become +broken down in health and was obliged to relinquish it. It was no light +tribute to the rising reputation of Major Stevens that so wise and +sagacious a man as Professor Bache, and so excellent a judge of men, +should have selected him out of the whole army as his right-hand +assistant and executive officer. He tendered the position, August 7, in +a letter well calculated to appeal to a patriotic and ambitious young +man, dwelling upon the important character of the duties of the office, +and the opportunities it afforded "to build up a name for executive +ability," and "to reflect credit upon the corps," etc., and stating that +the chief engineer (General Totten was an intimate friend of Professor +Bache) would look favorably upon his acceptance. + +At first Major Stevens was disposed to decline the post; but after +several interviews with Professor Bache in Cambridge and Boston, he +reluctantly decided to accept it, but upon condition that he should +retain charge of the Bucksport works in addition to the new position for +a year longer, with the right then to retain either the Coast Survey or +Fort Knox, as he might prefer, and relinquish the other. This unique +condition, by which an officer about to undertake new and arduous duties +stipulated to retain also his former ones, thus voluntarily adding to +his labors instead of diminishing them, was at once accepted by +Professor Bache and agreed to by the engineer department, a convincing +proof of the esteem in which he was held by both. + +The concluding part of the following letter to his brother Oliver shows +that it was the wider field for his energies and ambition, the better +opportunities for service and for putting in force his ideas of +reorganizing the army, of performing his "duty to his profession," that +really caused him to accept the onerous position:-- + + MY DEAR BROTHER,--I am ready at once to give you a decided opinion + as to the course you should pursue, and I know it will be in + accordance with your own judgment. + + Remain in Cambridge a year and a half longer. Then go to Boston. + Throw yourself into the arena of the strongest men in the State. + Contend with strong men, the stronger the better, and rise above + them all. + + I have watched your progress with the anxiety and tender solicitude + which an older brother must feel in a younger and only brother. This + is one of the turning-points of your life. + + I have not the slightest doubt, in one year from being admitted to + the bar, you will be able to marry and have a home of your own. + + Don't trouble yourself about the cost. If things go right with me + here, I have no doubt I shall be able to let you have, from July, + '50, to July, '51, all you will require. + + I write with the earnestness of deep conviction. I am proud of your + talents, but you have a weight of character which gives to talent + its force. Let me hear from you soon. I beg of you not to give way + to despondency, and the least as to the bold course I have + indicated. + + You and I both do best by taking bold, self-relying courses. I never + once failed in my life from the boldness of my course. You will not. + + I feel I have come to Washington at the right time. The Coast Survey + _needs me_ to overhaul it. I feel that the army has a representative + in me which it has not had in Washington in years. I know my + position,--my strength,--and I swear by the Eternal, to use + Jackson's expression, I will put it forth. + +In the following he gives his views on Coast Survey and other matters. + + WASHINGTON, D.C., October 22, 1849. + + MY DEAR BROTHER,--To-day I enter upon my duties. I see no particular + difficulty. There is no need of being a mere office drudge. All the + work can be done without any one's breaking down. The Coast Survey + is a large operation, and the charge of the office here can be made + an agreeable duty. The responsibility will be considerable. But all + details can be thrown upon subordinates. The fact is, the work in + the world has got to be done. But it can be done by proper + distribution and arrangement in an easy, quiet manner. This will be + my study in my new duties. + + We shall have a great session of Congress the coming winter. The + whole subject of our communications with the Pacific will be + discussed, railroad and ship canal across the Isthmus,--railroad + through our own border. I have no doubt Congress will direct the + necessary explorations and surveys to determine the practicability + of the various schemes. + + I am now boarding at a private house. But in a few days I shall + occupy rooms, and take my meals at one of the public houses. This is + the favorite mode with gentlemen that can afford it. A good parlor + with sleeping-room adjoining, in a good situation, will cost me + twenty-five dollars per month, the rooms being furnished, and + provided with fuel, light, and attendance. And board simply, at the + best public houses, will cost about twenty dollars more. This mode + of living is free and easy. You go into retiracy when you choose, + and can again at any moment mingle with the crowd. + + I am becoming acquainted with our Maine and Massachusetts + congressmen. Duncan, of Haverhill, I find quite an agreeable + gentleman. Hamlin, one of the Maine senators, seems to be quite a + clever fellow. Maine, however, has a mediocre representation in both + branches. I was present last evening at a reception at the White + House. The President looks hardy, and as though he would survive the + attacks that are being made upon him. His nonchalance is by many + mistaken for vacuity. The old man has an iron will and most + inflexible resolution, and I assure my Democratic friends, who say + that he is in the keeping of others, that before his four years are + through they will be convinced of it. Take my opinion for what it is + worth, brother Oliver. + + The Democrats, as regards General Taylor, are pursuing the very + course to reëlect him. What did the Whigs gain by representing + General Jackson to be in leading-strings? Can't we learn from our + enemies? + +The Coast Survey Office was indeed "a large operation." All the maps, +charts, computations, drawings, printing, engravings, instrument-making, +and business administration of the survey were done here under the +management and supervision of the assistant in charge. The force +immediately under him comprised from sixty to seventy persons, including +several army officers. The office occupied a large brick block of houses +on New Jersey Avenue, corner of B Street, the house at the northeast end +being the residence of the professor. The Coast Survey now occupies the +other end of the same square. + +The first step taken by the new chief was to organize the force into +separate bureaus, each under a responsible head, and performing a +particular branch of the work. This had not yet been done, although the +difficulty, or impossibility, of the head of the office personally +directing and supervising so many employees singly, and the details of +such multifarious and complicated work, was daily becoming more evident, +and doubtless was the prime cause of Captain Humphreys's breakdown. + + "On entering on my duties," he remarks in his first report, "I saw + at once that my only hope of filling the situation, with + satisfaction to the survey and to myself, was in at once applying my + exertions to enlarging and adapting the organization of the office + to the increasing wants of the survey. The office work would + necessarily increase for two or three years without any increase of + field work. But it was manifest that the field work of the survey + itself must increase, and thus involve a still greater increase of + office work." + +Accordingly he established the Departments of Engraving, Drawing, +Computing, Publication and Distribution of Maps, Archives and Library, +and Correspondence. To these were soon added Electro-plating, Printing, +and Instrument-making. The best-fitted men were selected from the force, +or new assistants were employed and put in charge of the departments. +The arrears of work were rapidly brought up; the geographical data were +collected and indexed; the registry of land work was improved; volumes +of observations were bound; and the register, two years behind, was +brought up to date. In his first report, the new assistant in charge +announced that the Drawing Department would be up to the wants of the +survey in one year, and made many useful recommendations for the +improvement of the service. + +Professor Bache warmly acknowledged the efficiency of his young +assistant in his reports. December 5, 1851, he declares:-- + + "For the development of the plans of office work, the urging to + completion the list of geographical positions, and the increased + rapidity of publication, the Coast Survey is indebted mainly to the + zeal and industry, guided by knowledge and intelligence, of + Brevet-Major Isaac I. Stevens, of the corps of engineers, in + acknowledging which, in connection with the remarks on the speedy + completion of the results of the survey, I feel that I am doing + simply an act of justice. + + "Every department of the office has, under his able supervision, + continued to improve, and has filled the full measure required by + the increasing number, amount, and variety of results returned by + the field work of the coast. It is due to Major Stevens to + acknowledge the promptness which is secured in the publication of + results, and the maturing of a system by which sketches and + preliminary work of charts are made in every case to precede the + more finished work, furnishing valuable results to the navigator as + soon as obtained by the survey. + + "The rapid execution of the engraved charts of the Western coast + reconnoissance is a proof of the perfection of this organization, + and of the zeal of those who administer it. Three well-executed + sheets of reconnoissance were engraved and ready for publication + within twenty working days after the beginning of the engraving." + +During Captain Humphreys's illness the work had fallen greatly in +arrears; many of the employees had become careless and idle, some of +them dissipated; and great disorder and confusion prevailed. It was +common report that the Coast Survey was the worst-conducted office in +Washington. Major Stevens set himself to correct this state of things +with a vigor, at times a severity, that admitted no delay and brooked no +opposition. Strict punctuality, prompt compliance with orders, and +complete and exact performance of duty, he required and exacted with +military discipline. There was great discontent and indignation among +the old officers and employees, and no little ridicule at the idea of +the young major enforcing army rule in a scientific institution. Even +the professor feared he was carrying it too far, and rather pettishly +remarked, "Since Major Stevens took hold, there has been a continual +jingling of bells all over the building, but I suppose it won't do to +interfere with these army officers." It seems that Major Stevens had +caused bells to be placed in the various offices with wires running to +his own room, so that he could summon his subordinates without delay +when he wished to see them. + +But the new assistant pursued the course he had marked out unswervingly, +without fear and without favor. He summarily dismissed several of the +worst offenders. Others he degraded in pay or position. He made himself +master of every branch and detail of that great institution. The old +computers, engravers, draughtsmen, topographers, and others, who had +passed years in the office, were astonished to find that the new chief +fully understood their technical work, and was watching, criticising, +and directing it with expert skill and judgment. As usual, he took a +warm interest in the men under his charge, ever ready to encourage and +reward the deserving, and to assist them in their personal affairs. He +caused one of the messengers, who had lost both arms in an explosion, to +learn to write with his foot, and gave him copying to do to eke out his +scanty pay. One of the higher employees was addicted to periodical +attacks of intemperance utterly beyond his power to resist, but +otherwise was a respectable and useful man. Major Stevens quietly told +this gentleman to come to him whenever he felt one of these attacks +coming on too strong for him to withstand, and he should have a leave of +absence for a few days, enough to have, and recover from, his spree, and +on this footing he continued on the survey for years. + +Under his firm, masterful, and exacting but generous treatment the +outraged feelings of the office soon changed. They could not but respect +a chief who, if he required good and full work, appreciated and +acknowledged it; and their respect changed to admiration, and finally to +affection, when they saw how he was building up the efficiency and +reputation of the office, and realized that his strict rule was +characterized by justice and impartiality, and tempered by the kindness +of a warm-hearted and generous man. Professor Bache found in his new +assistant not only relief from the cares of the office and of +administration, but one whose ideas in most subjects agreed with his +own, and whose strong, bright, and well-instructed mind could travel +with his own through other fields. A warm and generous friendship grew +up between them, which lasted unbroken during life. + +The task he had undertaken at the Coast Survey made this a very +laborious winter for Major Stevens, but one that gratified his ambition +for public service. He met many of his brother officers, "the men of +Mexico," and discussed with them the questions of army reorganization, +fortifications, etc. He also made the acquaintance of members of +Congress, and freely impressed upon them his views of these measures. +General Shields was now a senator from Illinois, and was always ready to +adopt and advocate the ideas of the young major of engineers, and was +glad of his aid in preparing his reports and bills. Always and +emphatically a national man, believing that the preservation of the +Union was essential to liberty and national existence, Major Stevens +took great interest in the compromise measures so ably carried through +by Henry Clay, in support of which Webster delivered his noted 7th of +March speech, and fully approved the measures of these great statesmen +to allay sectional strife and preserve the Union. + +The plans and hopes of the Southern leaders were cruelly disappointed by +the action of California, which adopted a free constitution, and knocked +at the doors of Congress for admission as a free State. Consequently +they refused her admission unless additional safeguards were thrown +around the "peculiar institution," as slavery was termed; and many of +the fire-eaters openly advocated disunion as the only means of +preserving it against the free ideas of the North, and the +preponderating increase of free States. For a time the difference seemed +irreconcilable, and disunion and civil war imminent; but at length, by +the wise counsels of Clay, Webster, and the more broad-minded men of +both sides, a compromise was effected, and California entered the Union +a free State. + +The old Puritan in Andover, in his abhorrence of slavery, condemned all +compromise, and writes the son he so much loved and admired a pathetic +and reproachful letter, marked, too, by a sublime faith in the ultimate +triumph of right:-- + + DEAR SON,--I have been confined to the house since the 22d of last + November, but am now very well, excepting a weak leg. I have thought + much of my daughters during my sickness, especially of the two + youngest, who were ever ready to wait upon me by night or day.... I + was sorry you should so much commend D. Webster's speech, and + thought no man could commend it who was opposed to slavery. I do + think Webster to be a demagogue; that he is so lost to every good + principle as to court slaveholders' approbation, and vote shame on + the descendants of the men of '75. + + I believe the great Being who rules the destinies of nations has + ordained that we remain united, that we extend the area of freedom, + not slavery, that other nations may copy our example,--too late in + the day for Liberty to take a backward march in our country, however + much she may swing to and fro in the old country. + + ISAAC STEVENS. + +His wife and family remained in Bucksport during the winter, not wishing +to break up the comfortable home until he decided to remain on the Coast +Survey permanently. Early in April he visited Bucksport, where, on the +28th of that month, a daughter was born to them, named Gertrude Maude. + +This winter Major Stevens's wound broke out afresh, and discharged +several small fragments of bone, causing considerable suffering and much +inconvenience. This recurred several times during his stay in +Washington, and it was over four years before the wound permanently +healed. Sometimes, when walking, his foot would give out entirely, and +he would have to hail the nearest omnibus or carriage. He used to wear a +shoe with very thick soles, which best protected and served the injured +member. + +A letter to Professor Bache, written from Newport while on his way to +Bucksport, shows that he had decided at this time to relinquish the +Coast Survey, a decision which he afterwards reconsidered:-- + + ... "In Baltimore I met Colonel Lee and Captain Foster. Colonel Lee + was kind enough to go over my article on the Mexican war. His + suggestions and criticisms will very much improve the article. The + colonel thinks I have made a mistake in determining not to remain on + the survey. + + "I saw General Scott in New York. He went over many of the + operations in the valley, and you may be assured it was a great + pleasure for me to meet my old chief. + + "I need not say to you how very gratifying to me was your letter in + reply to mine communicating my intention to retire from the survey; + and in answer to the concluding paragraph, you may rely upon me to + do all in my power to respond to your wishes. I have been growing + stronger every day since I left Washington. I hope to return in + condition to do more satisfactory service than was in my power for + some weeks previous to my leaving." + +So it would seem that his hard work and close application were telling +upon his health and strength. + +In the spring he moved his family to Newport for the summer. In August +he paid off four hundred dollars of the debt on the Bucksport house. +Plain, simple, and even frugal in personal habits and expenses, and +careful in money matters, he saved this sum from his pay. Yet he never +cared for money-making; and notwithstanding the straitened circumstances +of early life, and the lessons of economy so diligently inculcated by +his father, he was very generous, a free giver, a great provider, and +inclined to spend money freely. + +He was obliged to spend most of the summer in Washington, making +occasional visits North to look after the Bucksport works and see his +family. He now definitely decided to stay on the Coast Survey. After a +short visit at Newport in August, he returned to Washington, and spent +no little time during the next month in hunting up suitable quarters. +How thoroughly sick and tired he was of being separated from his wife +and children; how he longed to live united with them; how lofty and +noble were his ideals of woman, of marriage, of duty, of ambition; and +what success he was gaining on the survey,--are graphically depicted in +his letters to his wife:-- + + WASHINGTON, September 5, 1850. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--I began to-day seeking for a boarding-house. I + find great objection is made to children coming to table. I think a + great deal of our children taking their meals with us, and I think I + had rather go to the second table myself than to be deprived of the + pleasure.... + + I regret I did not remain a week longer. I found on reaching + Washington that there was no necessity for my hurrying back. We + should all of us have enjoyed the bathing. It is mighty lonesome + here, particularly from sundown till about eight in the morning. It + spoils a man on some accounts to be married, particularly if he gets + a good, lovable wife. He is not good for much away from her. I + assure you I will never be separated from you again another winter + unless it is an absolute impossibility for us to be together. We are + young, and let us not renounce the comfort and support of each + other's society unless the necessity is imperative. I know you will + say amen to this.... + + + WASHINGTON, Saturday, September 6, 1850. + + MY DEAR WIFE,--... A devoted, loving, tender, sympathizing wife is + the greatest element of my success in life. It adds to my strength + in all respects. Think of this, Margaret. If I achieve what may be + truly called success, it will be due mainly to you. I have no desire + for place, or wealth, or station. But should I do something for my + kind, should it be said of me when I am gone that the world owes + something to my memory, that my fellow-men are happier and better + for my labors, this is what I call success. It can be achieved only + by constancy, by nobility of purpose, by a self-sacrificing spirit. + Your example and your affection for me will help me to cultivate + these virtues. + + Yesterday the House passed by ten votes the Texas Boundary and the + New Mexico Territorial Bill. You cannot imagine the gratulation + which was shown by all persons, both in and out of Congress, when + the result was announced. The feeling was that all the danger which + had menaced us had been averted. If necessary, a great many members + would have changed their votes. On Wednesday the measure was + defeated by a majority of forty-six votes; on Thursday by a majority + of eight votes; and yesterday it passed by a majority of ten. All + the other measures will be rapidly pushed through, and Congress will + rise early next month. + + In my judgment the most dangerous crisis that has occurred since the + foundation of the government has been happily passed. Henry Clay has + been throughout the master spirit of the times. His services the + present session are enough to immortalize his name. It is the + crowning triumph of his civic life, and he will descend to posterity + as one of the heroes and benefactors of his age and generation. He + has not his peer in Congress. No man that combines his intrepid + soul, his extended views, his large American heart, his admirable + tact and presence of mind, and that quality of leadership which + enables him through doubt and defection, in spite of unexpected + difficulties and notwithstanding repeated defeats, to undauntedly + pursue his course and finally achieve the ultimate triumph. This is + Henry Clay in his seventy-fifth year. He has not his peer in our + whole parliamentary history. + + Sunday, September 8. Yesterday the California and Utah bills passed + the House. Last evening a salute of one hundred guns was fired, and + a large multitude assembled in front of the National to listen to a + serenade to Henry Clay. But the glorious old man had gone out to + enjoy a quiet Sunday in the country, and was not to be seen. + + Little Sue must, I know, miss me very much. She is a great pet of + mine. I never feel as if I could be put out with her, let her be + ever so whimsical. Tell Sue she shall see her papa in a few weeks, + and then we shall keep together for many months. Our long + separation, dearest wife, is drawing to a close, and we shall be + again united. My last visit was an oasis in the desert. + + I saw the doctor in relation to my sore throat. He says it has very + much improved. The only precaution I must take is not to expose + myself to the night air. My general health is quite good, and is + still growing even better. My foot gives me very little trouble. It + has not been so strong for eight months as for the last ten days. I + now am not obliged to make much use of the crutches. You may be sure + I feel very much encouraged about my health, and I have no fears as + to its being perfectly reëstablished. I eat well, sleep well, and am + not worried by work. Remember me, my dear wife, to all the friends. + Kiss the little Sue and Maude. + + Your ever affectionate husband. + + + WASHINGTON, September 29, 1850. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--You must not think I have forgotten you. I have + been very much occupied the last few days. Our appropriations were + in danger, and both Professor Bache and myself have been hard at + work to save them. We have carried everything,--secured no less than + one hundred and ninety thousand dollars for the Western coast. + + A portion of this appropriation we carried in the House in the teeth + of the Committee of Ways and Means. They opposed it vehemently, yet + we went to work on Friday, worked hard all day, and carried it two + to one nearly against them. + + The professor is in one respect a most skillful manager, but his + skill consists in his perfect directness, truthfulness, + disinterestedness, and good temper. He is perfectly frank and open. + Margaret, such men have most influence with all men of sense, + whether members of Congress, or men in official station, or in + private life. This is the secret of his getting along so well. You + know I have always insisted that such a course was the most sure and + reliable. You stand on the solid rock, and nothing can move you when + you cast aside all intrigue and low cunning, and pursue an open, + truthful, manly course. Cunning men cannot cope with you. This is my + experience. + + My duties in the office are becoming more and more pleasant. The + office is becoming systematized, the back work is all coming up, and + in the spring I have no doubt everything will be in the best + possible condition. + + Every department is improving, and a very fine spirit pervades all + the employees. I am bringing to bear upon the men my personal + weight, and you know I rarely ever fail whenever I am brought into + direct personal contact with men. All the men are beginning to know + me. They know I am firm and steadfast, but that I am as true to them + as I am to the work itself. Every man will find that he can have + entire confidence in my justice, and in my judgment of his merits. I + am determined to be deserving of their confidence, and, if so, I + shall most assuredly gain it. + + The professor's confidence in me seems to be greater every day. This + makes my position pleasant. It makes me more efficient. My judgment + is all the clearer for it. The truth is, I take the same general + view of things that he does, and my judgment almost invariably + brings me to the same conclusions. Thus, in operating to secure our + appropriations, we agreed perfectly in the mode of proceeding. + Indeed, the professor left the management entirely to me in the + first instance. When things were prepared for him, I sent an express + to his camp to bring him in. All my arrangements entered admirably + into his plans. This was pleasant. My part was, of course, a + subordinate one, but it was in harmony with all that was done. + +In the latter part of 1849 appeared the "History of the Mexican War," by +Major Roswell S. Ripley, of the 1st artillery, who had served in Scott's +campaign, and who had been given a year's leave of absence to enable him +to write the work. The history is fairly well written, and accurate for +the most part, but marred by the constant effort to depreciate the +character and services of General Scott, and to extol Generals Worth and +Pillow at his expense. The former of these officers, a fine soldier, and +deservedly of high standing in the army and before the people, needed no +encomiums; the latter was unworthy of them. Some of Ripley's statements, +too, were deemed erroneous by many of the ablest officers who +participated in the contest, and there was a strong sentiment among them +that these errors ought to be exposed, and the truth vindicated before +the public. None felt this sentiment more strongly than Major Stevens. +An admirer of Scott's military talents, and a member of his staff during +the famous campaign, his sense of justice and truth outraged by the +attempt to disparage the general's great services, and to heap unearned +honors upon Pillow, he deemed it his duty, even in the midst of his +arduous labors at the Coast Survey, to give to the world a tame and just +account of these events, thus defending his former chief, and +vindicating the truth of history. + +He labored upon this work with his usual energy and thoroughness, +submitted it in manuscript to Mason, Mansfield, Robert E. Lee, and other +officers, by whom it was highly approved, and early in 1851 published +his "Campaigns of the Rio Grande and of Mexico." In the preface he +says:-- + + "His object in appearing before the public was to testify to the + services of those heroic officers and soldiers who were in his + judgment depreciated in the work of Major Ripley. He felt impelled + to this course by a sense of duty, and he appeals to all the actors + in those scenes to bear testimony in vindication of the truth." + +It is a strange instance of the foibles of a really great man that this +work, inspired by the noblest and most disinterested motives, and the +ablest defense of Scott's course in Mexico, was the cause of an +estrangement for years between the writer and the commander he so well +vindicated. Immediately on the publication of the book, Major Stevens +presented General Scott with a copy with his compliments, fully +expecting the warm thanks and appreciation of his former chief. To his +astonishment, a few days later General Scott returned the book by the +hands of General Totten, with the message that Major Stevens was to +observe that the leaves were still uncut, thus implying that he +disdained even to read it. This affront he offered to the officer whom +for bravery and services in Mexico he had highly commended and +recommended for brevets, whose advice he had listened to in councils of +war and followed on the battlefield, whom, hand upon his shoulder, he +had presented to the shouting multitude in Washington as 'My young +friend, Major Stevens, to whose courage and ability I owe much of my +success in Mexico,' and who was his warmest and ablest defender against +the aspersions of his enemies. + +Whether General Scott, whose overweening vanity could ill brook the +least criticism, was inflamed by some remark in the work, which seems +incredible, or whether his mind was poisoned by one of those parasites +that ever hang upon the great, is uncertain. In truth, his movements and +entire course are highly commended, and in only a few instances is he +criticised. Major Stevens pronounced his attack of Molino del Rey a +mistake, and also the not insisting upon the surrender of Chapultepec +when the armistice was granted after the battle of Churubusco. Major +Stevens was not in the least cast down by this unwarranted rebuff. He +simply pitied the foibles of the man, while he retained his admiration +for the general's military talents. He always made it a point to call +upon him on New Year's, and to show him the respect due the head of the +army. But the cordial personal relations were broken forever. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV + + LIFE IN WASHINGTON + + +In October, 1850, Major Stevens moved his wife and little ones to +Washington, and took quarters at Mrs. Kelley's on Eighteenth Street, +opposite Lafayette Square, in a large, spacious brick house, known as +the club-house. Here also lived General Talcott, of the ordnance, +Colonel Ethan Allen Hitchcock, Senator McWillie, of Mississippi, and +Representative Burt, of South Carolina, with their families, and +Commodore Matthew C. Perry, soon to become famous for opening Japan to +the commerce and intercourse of the world. The latter took a great fancy +to the little Sue, a sprightly, graceful child, and used to keep a store +of candy in his room for her especial benefit. They were all cultivated +and agreeable people, who lived together harmoniously and pleasantly, +and with social calls, receptions, and parties the winter passed off +rapidly. They enjoyed, too, the pleasant intimacy and cordial sympathy +of their Portsmouth friends, Mr. and Mrs. Hayes, and Mr. and Mrs. Coues, +who were now living in Washington. + +During this winter Major Stevens took up the fourteen years' bill, a +measure to promote lieutenants of engineers, topographical engineers, +and ordnance to the rank of captain after fourteen years' service, with +the same energy and thoroughness that characterized his efforts to +procure for officers on duty according to brevet rank the full pay of +such rank. He first induced the officers of these corps in Washington to +agree upon the proposed bill, and to unite in actively supporting it, +no small task, for there was much jealousy between them, and different +schemes for benefiting one or another corps. How he enlisted the +coöperation of officers at other stations will be seen from the +following letter to Lieutenant M.C. Meiggs, afterwards major-general and +quartermaster-general of the army:-- + + DEAR MEIGGS,--The inclosed memorial, asking that lieutenants of + engineers, topographical engineers, and ordnance be promoted to the + rank of captain after fourteen years' service, was introduced into + the Senate yesterday and referred to the Military Committee. + + We are all of us determined to do our best to get this measure + through. We are all acting with great unanimity. The idea is not to + touch the question of the increase of either corps, or the + equalization of the third corps. It is simply a measure of relief + for the old lieutenants, and we ask for it for the reasons stated in + the memorial. + + We must urge the measure especially on the ground that there is no + characteristic duty for the particular grades, but that with the + proposed promotion not only will all our captains, but many of the + lieutenants, have the same duties essentially as field officers. + + The chiefs of our three corps have been consulted and approve our + course. The Secretary of War is also favorable and advises us to + this action. General Shields will strongly support it. + + Every man must help in this business, if he approves of it. The + committee desires each officer to correspond without delay with such + members of Congress as he personally knows, and lay before them at + length the grounds why this measure of relief should become a law. + + Let me hear from you soon, and let us all put our shoulders to the + wheel. If each officer can carry conviction to the understanding of + one member of Congress, the measure will prevail. + +His friend, General Shields, then senator from Illinois, presented the +memorial and advocated the bill in the Senate with hearty goodwill. The +young major of engineers lost no suitable opportunity of impressing +other members with the justice of the measure, and his earnest and +forcible language, straightforward sincerity, and rising reputation for +character and ability made him always listened to with attention and +respect. He enjoyed the satisfaction of seeing the bill become a law in +1853, and of receiving the well-earned thanks and plaudits of his +brother officers. + +The subject of the reorganization of the army, which ever since the +Mexican war held first place in his thoughts and correspondence, now +engrossed his attention more than ever. His enlarged views, patriotic +spirit, and generous nature abhorred the personal and corps jealousies +too rife among army officers. He was emphatically an army man, not a +corps man, seeking the best for the whole army and the country, and not +the advancement of his corps or himself. Accordingly he corresponded on +this subject with officers of every branch of the service, and +especially with those who had served on the frontier; for he rightly +foresaw that the most important duties devolving upon the army would be +the exploration of the vast regions acquired by the Mexican war, and the +protection of the settlers thereon. By this correspondence he sought to +draw out and gather the views of the ablest and most experienced +officers, in order to unite them upon, and to formulate, a sound scheme +of army reorganization, and to impress it upon the country and Congress. +He wrote very many letters setting forth his own views, and urging other +officers to treat upon one or another branch of the subject, or to +pursue some line of inquiry, and called upon them freely to look up +authorities and collect information. Thus he induced Major H.J. Hunt to +prepare valuable papers upon artillery and army reorganization in +general. He begs Captain Kendrick to prepare a memoir on the New Mexico +military problem; Lieutenant-Colonel W.J. Hardee, on the defense of the +frontier; Captain G.W. Smith, on "General Camp of Discipline, where all +the army come together to learn the military art;" Captain George B. +McClellan, on engineer troops; Captain G.W. Cullum, subject of military +instruction; and others. Most of these officers responded readily and +favorably to his appeals. In the following letters his ideas are clearly +stated:-- + + MY DEAR HUNT,--We must move quietly as well as firmly in this matter + [army reorganization]. We must make up our minds to encounter a + violent opposition. The bureaucracy of Washington will probably be + against us. We should first endeavor to get their aid, at least + their neutrality in whole or in part. If they combine against + reform, we must resolve to accomplish reform in spite of them. But + time is necessary. A right direction to public opinion is necessary. + Many men in Congress, the able men, must understand the question and + be ready to act. We must first, then, enlighten public opinion, and + enlighten members of Congress. We must bide our time, and, when it + comes, act. + + Let it first, then, be stirred quietly in the army. Let a great many + officers in all good time, all discreet and sensible men, be + interested, and let them write for the papers.... + + We must work to get public men informed. I would not have the + movement partake in the slightest degree of a party character. But + we must act on the known fact that the Democratic party is the only + party that can govern the country. The Whig party is totally + incompetent. We must throw our strength chiefly on Democrats. + Douglas would be a tower of strength in the Senate. Would it not be + a good idea to address a series of letters to him, and request + _him_, if he approves of their general spirit, to publish them in + the "Washington Union"? This he could do without pledging himself to + the particular views of the letters. In the House is Fuller, of + Maine, a new member but a rising man, a particular friend of mine. + There is Bissel, of Illinois. There is Rusk, of Texas. General + Bayly, Stanton, of Tennessee, and others I might mention, are + strong, reliable men. The Southern _disunion_ men will look coldly + on all attempts to improve the army. Mr. Burt will be lukewarm. I am + somewhat fearful of Jefferson Davis. But they are both strong, good + men, and we should act on the presumption that sectional views will + not sway them from their duty. + + Yours, etc., + I.I. STEVENS. + +He urged the elevating of the _personnel_ of the army by-- + + "enlisting none but intelligent, respectable men, a fair + representation of our people, attracted by increase of pay, and by + opportunity of promotion to the grade of commissioned officer; that + by care in selecting men, by schools, by libraries, and by camps of + instruction, we can actually make of the common soldier a pretty + good military man, so that going into civil life he may do good + service in the militia, and in time of war be an important element + in rapidly organizing armies. In this way the influence of West + Point can be felt throughout the length and breadth of the land, in + peace as well as on the breaking out of a war. It should be a + settled principle to officer the infantry and mounted regiments in + part from the rank and file. I know of no measure which is so + calculated to elevate the service, and impart to it a greater + efficiency. Young men of character would enter it, and our own + citizens would fill up the ranks. + + "Commanding officers on the frontiers should have entire discretion + in matters of clothing, subsistence, and transportation. Officers of + the administrative departments would in this case make their usual + returns and reports to their chiefs in Washington. But the + directions from Washington should be to the commander, and should be + of the most general character; else there will be divided, + discordant government, there will be a want of unity of purpose, + there will be feebleness and delays in action. It may be said that + this involves great judgment, energy, and foresight on the part of + the commanding officer. Undoubtedly, and none but officers of high + qualities should be placed in command. This is one of the most + important duties in the direction of affairs at Washington. Send the + most competent man to take command. Throw the responsibility upon + him. _Build him up_, or _break him down_. In the latter case, + promptly supply his place by another officer." + +He also suggested planting military colonies:-- + + "Farmers and artisans to be enlisted, heads of families as well as + young men, all intelligent, sober, moral men, at advanced rates of + pay, and with their families be located at important points in the + Indian country, the whole to be organized in a military manner; + heads of families as the stationary infantry force, and the young + men as the dragoon force, always in the saddle, and making up in + mobility for paucity of numbers. + + "I know well some of the prominent members of the Military + Committee. My opinion is sometimes asked, and I wish to communicate + sound, practical views. Here I am, and in my intercourse with + members of Congress I intend to be, an _army_ man and not a _corps_ + man. Let me tell you that truthful, intelligent officers have weight + with Congress. The prominent members will give heed to their + suggestions, and will be apt to adopt their views. There is a strong + feeling in Congress that things are not managed rightly. Officers + here must not only show what things are managed well; they must also + show wherein things are _mis_managed, and they must suggest the + remedy. It is time for officers having a common purpose to act + together, and do something for their profession. I am at all events + determined to do my duty. If we will act in concert, compare views + in a fraternal and generous spirit, merging the _arm_ in the _army_, + and taking views as large as our country, and occupying the whole + ground of the public defense, and thus come to conclusions, we shall + be right, and Congress will act accordingly, I care not what + opposition be made in interested quarters." + +In a letter to Captain G.W. Smith, he declares-- + + "that the experience of our corps is too confined in time of peace, + and that a portion ought to serve with troops in the West. This has + always been my opinion, and the first year I entered the army I + corresponded with Halleck in relation to it, and was in favor of a + strong effort being made by our officers to get a change in our + duties.... Were I not tied up on the Coast Survey as I am, I would + make a great effort to get ordered to New Mexico or Texas. There is + a field for such of us as will go there with a determination to + carve one out, if it is not, in consequence of the stupidity of + superiors, offered us." + +Major Stevens followed up this subject with great diligence, expending a +vast amount of thought and work upon it for three years, and until the +engrossing duties of the exploration of the Northern route to the +Pacific in 1853, and of the governorship of Washington Territory, the +making of Indian treaties, and the conduct of the Indian war in the +Pacific Northwest occupied his whole time and energies. Some of his +ideas bore fruit, and have since been adopted, notably the raising of +the standard of the rank and file by increasing the pay of the private +soldier, improving his opportunities, and allowing him to compete for a +commission. And the thoroughgoing and comprehensive plan he suggested of +deciding upon the best system of national defense by the study and +conferring together of the ablest military men, the appeal to patriotic +and intelligent citizens, and the enlightening of public opinion, is as +wise and practical now as then, and as necessary. For the dear-bought +experience of our four great wars is entirely unheeded, indeed almost +unknown to the mass of the people; and the army to-day, in organization +as in numbers, in its influence upon the military ideas and aptitudes of +the nation in peace as in its capacity for expansion in time of war, is +inadequate to our needs as a great nation. + +Upon this subject the following characteristic letter of McClellan is of +interest:-- + + Friday. + + MY DEAR STEVENS,--The inclosed are the result of a search through + the libraries of the War and Eng'r Dep'ts. I hardly feel satisfied + that they are precisely what you need. + + If they do not suit you, inform me of it, and I will gladly renew + the research. + + I had another conversation with the general this morning about the + sappers. It's of no use whatever,--his mind is made up to detail + fifty men on the Coast Survey. He says the duty I propose for them + in Texas is not legitimate and belongs not to them. Amen! I have + said my say. I've done what I could. Some one of more influence than + I possess must convince him,--my words are idle breath and of no + avail. + + Truly your friend, + GEORGE B. MCCLELLAN. + +It should be remembered that he was undertaking this great task of +reorganizing the army, expending so much thought, labor, and time upon +it, in addition to the incessant labors of the Coast Survey and the +cares of the fortifications in Maine. It was his lofty and patriotic +ideals, his noble ambition to do his duty by his profession and his +country, that spurred him on, and his untiring energy and power of +concentration that enabled him to throw off work so rapidly and +effectively. His great ambition was to accomplish results, and he was +careless and indifferent as to claiming credit for himself, or pushing +himself in any way. + +Notwithstanding all these engrossing labors, he responded as promptly +and generously as ever to the personal calls of his friends and others. +He writes and interviews the War Department and Generals Scott and +Totten in behalf of another brevet for Captain G.W. Smith, aids +McClellan in regard to the engineer company, obtains information for +H.L. Smith, has the accounts of Sergeant Lathrop, of the engineer +company, passed, and is ever ready to lend a helping hand to any +deserving man or cause. + +Early in 1851 Major Stevens moved to Mrs. Janney's, an excellent and +well-known boarding-house on Eighth Street, next the Avenue. Here lived +several members of Congress and government officials, and also the +Turkish ambassador, a grave, quiet man in a dark red fez, with whom +Major Stevens occasionally played checkers in the evening. At this +establishment breakfast was served at eight, dinner at four, with a +lunch at noon, and at nine in the evening tea and thin sandwiches were +handed around in the parlor. + +In June Major Stevens carried his family to Newport for the summer, +where leaving them, he visited Bucksport to look after the works at Fort +Knox, which still remained under his charge. He hastened back to +Washington before the month was out. Passing through New York, he again +sat to Professor Fowler for his "phrenological character," but this time +was not accused of being a poet. Whether informed by the bumps or other +means, the phrenologist seems to have drawn his characteristics pretty +accurately, with some glaring exceptions. + +Desirous of keeping house, Major Stevens now leased a roomy brick house, +one in a block of two, on the west side of Third Street, and only a +block north of the Avenue. This house had a large garden fronting on the +street, and in the rear of it was a stable opening on an alley behind. +Having obtained a position on the Coast Survey for his cousin, George +Watson Stevens, a son of uncle William, a young man of nineteen, Major +Stevens invited the youth to become a member of his family. + + WASHINGTON, July 27, 1851. + +MY DEAR, GOOD WIFE,--I have read your last letter over three times, and +it has done me a world of good. I love to have you write so from your +heart. You know that in marriage, in my wife and children, are centred +all my hopes of earthly happiness. I am conscious it occupies too large +a space in my youthful longings. It seems to me, with a devoted, loving, +and lovely wife and lovely children, I might shut out the cares of life, +and give myself up to happiness and joy. But we have duties to perform, +trials to encounter, victories to achieve. Life is a warfare. We must +contend with evil. We must accomplish good. I feel that I have done +something, but that I have just begun; that I am entering upon the great +field of useful exertion. I feel that the past has simply given me the +experience and the knowledge to wisely conquer the present, and thus +achieve a future. I feel there is something heroic and noble in this +view of life. I feel that the greatest support, next to the +consciousness of well-doing, is the sympathy and support of you, my dear +companion and friend, and the confiding, tender helplessness of our dear +babes. + +I like George in the house very much, and, so far as I am concerned, I +should like to have him a member of our family. I think, moreover, it +would be to his advantage. Charging him simply the actual outlay to us, +it will diminish his expenditures. Moreover, I shall be absent on +inspections more or less, and you will thus have some one to call on. + +He is studious, attentive to his duties, is impressing every one +favorably with whom he is brought in contact, and is advancing steadily +and quite rapidly. I feel highly pleased with his progress. With economy +his pay will, the first year, pay his expenses. + +I fear, if I am off in August, it will embarrass me very seriously in +the fall. Our reports are still coming in, and now is the time to put +things in a successful train. I do not wish, by inaction or delay now, +to make trouble hereafter. My health is remarkably good. I have never +had a better appetite, or more ability to work, than I have now. I am +surprised at my vigor. I don't care how hot the weather is. The +perspiration will drop from my face and hands, and I will feel neither +languor nor fatigue. The other men in the office complain and have to +slacken in their exertions, whilst I seem to have, with every hot day, +fresh strength and force. + +Give my love to the bairns. I want very much to see them. + + Yours affectionately, + ISAAC. + + + WASHINGTON, July 28, 1851. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--I was very glad to learn that you were so well, + and that the visit to Tom's was so pleasant. The farm is the place + for children. On their account I wish I could pass four months every + summer in that way. Hazard should go to school seven or eight + months. I am delighted with his doings,--learning to swim, and do + all kinds of work. Maude, too, learning to walk,--yes, actually + walking, little darling. She must have forgotten me, but she will + soon recollect me on seeing me again. And Sue learning to ride on + horseback! Why, verily, Margaret, you have a hopeful family, one of + which you may well be proud. Whether I go on to Tom's farm this + summer is doubtful. I am glad they are doing so well. Daniel is a + first-rate business man, and, as he likes farming, why not make it + his business? I believe he could in a few years clear from debt a + large farm, going upon it without a cent in his pocket. This is my + opinion, and in a pecuniary point of view it is much better than a + salaried place,--far better. + + You may be assured my health is remarkably firm and good. I never + knew it better. This warm weather does not affect me in the least. I + bear labor better than any man in the office. Not a man in the + office can do as much as I can. + + Well, as to the book. It is said to sell pretty well. Most of the + copies have been disposed of. Very good notices have appeared both + in the "Intelligencer" and "Republic." The notice of the + "Intelligencer" I sent you. The notice in the "Republic" was short, + but very good. Some of my friends think it will excite a + controversy. Others think it will be found a very hard thing to + reply to. The fact is, whilst I have endeavored to clearly discern + errors, I have sought to look charitably on all that was done. This + seemed to me the only true wisdom. Some of my friends think I have + carried this spirit too far, and that I have not censured enough. + The general criticism is that I am too favorable towards Ripley. I + think I have simply done him justice. + + + WASHINGTON, August 8, 1851. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--My health is remarkably good, my duties + multifarious, and I must not spend time in recreation which my + health does not require. I have not had such health for years, and + have enjoyed this summer. + + We are getting on famously with our housekeeping. The woman is a + neat, respectable, honest person, who tries to do her duty, a very + respectable washer and ironer as well as cook. I think you will be + pleased with her. I shall send a boy whom we have had for a month + away in the morning. One of the messengers comes to the house every + evening to attend to the garden. So we are getting along. To-day we + put six chickens into our coop, and to-morrow eight hens will be + admitted. You will find us getting on swimmingly when you come on in + October. + + Friday morning. I have just received two very gratifying letters, + one from General Shields, which I send you. Don't show it to any + one, for he is very extravagant in praise of my book, and his + suggestions are made in a corresponding spirit. But I value what he + says very much, because he writes from his heart and in the spirit + of friendship. I feel, too, there are many points of sympathy + between him and me, and I value his friendship and words of + encouragement. + + The other letter is from Major Pitman. His article on my book in the + "Providence Journal" of August 6 is altogether the best that has + appeared. He has presented his own views with clearness and force on + certain points of difference. This is what I want. I don't want + eulogies, but discriminating notices. I want to see my errors + exposed, otherwise I shall not learn to correct them. + + Taylor & Maury have sold out all the copies of my book, and in + consequence I loaned them half a dozen that I still had on hand. + They think they will sell a great many more. + + I am pushed exceedingly, and can write no more to-day. Love to the + children. + + Affectionately. + +In the latter part of September Major Stevens made a hasty visit North, +spent a few days at Andover and Newport, and brought his family back to +Washington. His wife's youngest sister, Miss Nancy Hazard, accompanied +them and spent the winter with them. He still retained charge of the +works at Bucksport, although the second year of duty on the Coast Survey +was near its close, and writes full and explicit instructions to Mr. +A.W. Tinkham, C.E., concerning it. At a later date he obtained a good +position for Mr. Tinkham on the Coast Survey, and also secured a +situation in the same service for Mr. John E. Lee, whom he had employed +in Bucksport as clerk. + +The family this winter was increased by George W. Stevens and Miss Nancy +L. Hazard. There was the colored cook, and Bridget Sullivan, the +children's nurse, and Sampson Ingraham, a most faithful, capable, and +respectable colored man and a free man. Sampson had one cross to bear +which sorely tried his devotion to the family, and that was milking the +cow and taking care of it, which Major Stevens compelled him daily to +do; for Sampson, never having done any farm work, regarded this as +derogatory, and was much distressed and mortified thereby. But finally +Major Stevens, perceiving his trouble, relieved him from this duty. In +the next house, on the south side, lived the family of Captain Simon F. +Blount, of the navy. Nearly across the street Senator William Gwin, of +California, and family occupied a roomy mansion, where they dispensed a +generous hospitality. After breakfast, at eight, Major Stevens usually +walked down to the Coast Survey Office, and walked back in time for +dinner at four in the afternoon. In the evening there was tea at eight +o'clock. + +Louis Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot, visited Washington this winter, +and attracted the greatest attention and admiration. He was a man of +noble presence, a finished orator, speaking English with great purity +and ease. The Democratic Jackson Club gave a banquet on January 8 in +honor of Kossuth, which was attended by Webster and many of the first +men of the country. Major Stevens was called upon to respond to the +toast of "The Army and Navy," and spoke as follows:-- + + GENTLEMEN,--In the name of the army I return my thanks for the honor + of this toast. I speak in behalf of the American army,--that army + which presents its breast to the enemy, which pours out its blood, + which lays down its life. A weighty significance already attaches + to these words, "the American army." For, first, it achieved the + independence of these States against the most powerful nation of + modern times; second, it waged against the same power the second war + of independence to maintain the freedom of the seas, the war the + culminating glories of which we this evening celebrate; and, third, + when a contiguous republic interfered with the domestic concerns of + one of our States, the vindication of the law of nations, thus + trampled under foot, was placed in its hands, and the stars and + stripes soon waved over the ancient seats of the Montezumas. The + American army will never forget what is due to its past renown and + its future glory. We feel that, citizens alike with you, we are the + army of a free people. We know, too, that our country possesses + elements of military strength scarcely appreciated by the + inattentive observer of events,--elements that have been nurtured by + the wonderful growth, the trials and vicissitudes, of our young + nation struggling into manhood. No other people so combines command + and obedience, is so subordinate to law, yet is so much a law unto + itself. No other people of ancient or modern times possesses such + elements of military power. It is the profound conviction of my + heart that in a just cause we could meet the world with a million + armed men, each man a tried and true soldier, surpassing even the + iron men of Cromwell, those men who feared God but not man; those + men stern in fight yet merciful in victory; those men who achieved + the great triumph of English independence, and transmitted to us its + glorious recollections. + + The members of both services, which you have honored to-night, see + that the American people are marching forward to mighty destinies, + and that upon them heavy responsibilities will rest. We mean to do + our whole duty. We mean at all times to be in harness and at our + posts. We know not when the time may come,--probably in our + lifetime, and perhaps to-morrow. We feel no despondency, but are + filled with joy and hope. When our beloved nation, "a power on + earth," shall determine to measure its strength with other powers in + the maintenance of right, and in vindication of violated law and + outraged humanity, the army and navy will carry their country's flag + in triumph over all seas and through all lands. + +Congress was disposed then as now to starve the coast defenses, +appropriating scarcely enough to maintain the works already built. Major +Stevens, deeply interested in the proper fortification of the coast, +both from his professional knowledge and experience and his enlarged and +patriotic views, with his accustomed zeal and energy undertook the task +of inculcating upon the country and Congress sound ideas in regard to +this important subject, and of obtaining the appropriations necessary to +keep up and complete existing works. In this, as in everything he +undertook, was evinced his prominent characteristic of going to the +bottom of a subject, of basing his action upon broad principles; and so, +instead of being satisfied with simply securing the needed +appropriations for the time being, he treats of the whole system of +fortifications required for national defense, both present and future. +He had repeated conferences with General Shields on this subject, who in +March, as chairman of the Military Committee, brought into the Senate a +favorable report and bill. In support of this, and advocating a proper +system of coast defenses, Major Stevens wrote a number of articles, +which were published in the "National Intelligencer" of Washington, the +"Boston Post," Portland "Eastern Argus," "Bangor Democrat," and papers +in New York, Richmond, New Orleans, and other places. He caused these +articles, with Shields's report, to be sent to many officers and +influential men in different parts of the country, urging them to +advocate the matter on patriotic grounds. These articles were much +commended, especially by his brother officers of the engineers. + +He also at this time published in the "Boston Post" an article on the +lighthouse system. + +In April, 1852, Major Stevens was appointed a member of the Lighthouse +Board, which was considered no slight honor, and which added much to his +responsibilities and his duties. His colleagues on the board were all +men of talent and reputation, the association with whom was congenial +and gratifying. In May he visited Wilmington on this duty. + +The Bucksport house had remained on his hands all this time, a source of +more care than income; but in April a purchaser was found in Mr. Knox +for $1350, evidently quite a sacrifice. + +He took his two elder children, Hazard and Sue, to Newport for the +summer; but his wife and Maude, the youngest child, remained in +Washington. + +General Franklin Pierce, having been nominated for the presidency by the +Democratic party, was outrageously assailed by the unscrupulous press +and partisans of the other side on account of his services in Mexico, +and even his personal courage was impugned. Major Stevens, having met +Pierce in Mexico, and having been favorably impressed by him, was +indignant at these slanders, and felt called upon to aid in refuting +them. Accordingly he published six letters in the "Boston Post" and two +in the "Republic," a Washington paper, warmly, but in a temperate and +courteous style, vindicating the unjustly assailed public man. He takes +pains in these articles to eulogize the military talents of General +Scott, the rival candidate nominated by the Whig party, quotes his +favorable mention of Pierce in his reports of operations in Mexico, and +shows that the rival candidates entertained warm feelings of esteem for +each other, thus ingeniously making Scott a witness to refute his own +reckless partisans. He concludes the last article as follows:-- + + "You well know, Mr. Editor, my exalted appreciation of the conduct + and services of General Scott in Mexico. It has been a pleasing + reflection that the standard-bearers of the two great parties were + warm personal friends, each possessing in an eminent degree the + respect and confidence of the other. The friends of General Pierce + have never claimed that he was a great military man. They concede + with pride and gratification that General Scott is, and that he is a + judge of military qualities. They simply claim that General Pierce + in his service in Mexico did his whole duty as a son of the + Republic, that he was eminently patriotic, disinterested, and + gallant, and that it has added a laurel to his beautiful civic + wreath: as a citizen he has been ready to make sacrifices for his + country; as a soldier and commander, he has shown gallantry before + the enemy, and was eminently the friend and father of his command." + +Colonel Charles G. Greene, editor of the "Post," writes that General +Pierce was much pleased with, and highly commended, these letters. + +Major Stevens always took great interest in public affairs. He was +emphatically a national man. He held the Union as the noblest work of +our Revolutionary patriots, and as indispensable to liberty and national +greatness. An ardent Democrat from boyhood, he regarded the Democratic +party as preëminently the national party, the party of progress. He +fully justified the Mexican war, the great Democratic measure, and +believed with full faith in the future growth and destiny of the Great +Republic. The slavery question, destined in a few brief years to wreck +that party and so nearly destroy the nation, was still in abeyance, and +it was almost universally believed that the compromise of 1850 had +averted all danger from that quarter. + +Not content with vindicating Pierce in the papers, Major Stevens now +concluded to support him on the stump. He wrote Gayton P. Osgood, and +other friends in Massachusetts, as to the advisability of this step, but +received rather discouraging replies, one correspondent even taking him +to task for speaking so highly of General Scott in his articles, and +recommending him to become a thoroughgoing partisan if he took the +stump. But as usual he held to his own opinion, and in August addressed +a large public meeting in Hillsborough, N.H., in support of the +Democratic principles and candidate, and later, in October, spoke in +Andover, Newport, and Portsmouth. His brother officer and friend, +Colonel James L. Mason, also addressed the meeting in Newport, and Hon. +Charles Levi Woodbury spoke with him in Portsmouth. In his speeches +Major Stevens took pains to do full justice to General Scott as a +military man, without disparaging him as a statesman or otherwise. His +arguments were drawn from the ideas and objects of the two parties,--a +contest of principles, not men. + +It appears that the course of the young army officer in stumping for +Pierce, and as in Mason's case even stirring up other officers to do +likewise, excited no little commotion in the War Department, for it was +a Whig administration. On his return, the Secretary of War, Charles M. +Conrad, undertook to take him to task for it, and wrote Major Stevens a +severe letter, demanding an explanation of his conduct. This was soon +bruited about Washington, and many of his friends and brother officers +came anxiously to advise with him about it. They felt that he was in an +embarrassing position, and one from which he could hardly hope to +extricate himself with credit, and they were not a little troubled as to +the outcome. + +At length Major Stevens prepared his answer to the Secretary, and, +before sending it, read it to a group of his anxious brother officers. +In a direct, forcible, but courteous style, he reminded the Secretary +that, in becoming an officer of the army, he had not forfeited his +rights as a citizen, nor become relieved from his duties as such; that, +while he had never failed in the respect due his superior officers, he +had the right of an American citizen to advocate such public measures as +he deemed best for the country, and to vote for the public servants best +fitted to carry them out; and he concluded in a somewhat sarcastic but +perfectly respectful way by calling the Secretary's attention to the +fact that General Scott himself was a candidate for the presidency, and +was setting the example of that participation in politics which the +Secretary so severely reprobated, and suggested that his animadversions +would have greater weight with the service, and be more worthy the +dignity of the War Department, if launched against the senior +major-general of the army instead of a simple lieutenant and brevet +major; that they were more applicable to the former than the latter, and +might well be deemed an attempt to scourge General Scott over his back. + +As Major Stevens read aloud this letter, the faces of his friends +cleared up; soon they began to applaud it, and as he finished they +crowded around him with cheers and laughter and exclamations,--"That's +good! that covers the ground!" "You are right, Stevens. You are +perfectly right." "He can't answer it," etc. Sure enough, the Secretary +did not answer it, and attempted no further action. + +In fact, Major Stevens had now become quite a leader among the able +young officers. They were constantly calling at his house, and +discussing with him the measures he was pushing forward for the +improvement of the army, fortifications, etc. He was always ready to +assist any of them, too, and it was known that his aid was frequently +effective. He obtained a detail on the Coast Survey for his friend, +Captain J.C. Foster, and secured for several others lighthouse +inspectorships. He also had a number of the engineer company detailed on +the Coast Survey, although his friends Cullum, G.W. Smith, and McClellan +strenuously opposed it. + +Writes a young man on the survey, whose pay Major Stevens had tried to +increase but without success:-- + + + "Having been informed to-day that you did not succeed in your + efforts to make my compensation $1500 per annum from October 1, + 1851, and consequently was obliged to pay out of your own pocket $50 + to make your word good, I believe it unbecoming a gentleman to + remain a moment longer in possession of said money. The inclosed + check will indemnify you for your loss sustained for my sake, and + joyfully I return my heartfelt thanks for the efforts you have made + in my behalf." + +Writes Cullum from West Point:-- + + "Your feeling and commendatory remarks on the death of private Logan + were read to the company [engineer], and will doubtless produce an + excellent impression." + +In truth, these personal demands grew to be a grievous burden upon his +time and energies, yet he never refused his aid to any claim of +friendship or desert. Among others a lady, who had long prosecuted a +claim before Congress in vain, was introduced by his corps chief, +General Totten, to Major Stevens, as the only man who could win her +cause. Although the latter felt that this was a task altogether outside +of his sphere of duty, and one which should not have been thrust upon +him, he cheerfully undertook it, and succeeded in having it allowed by +Congress. + +The friendship between Major Stevens and Professor Bache grew stronger +the longer they were associated together. They appreciated and admired +each other. Both were gifted with uncommon powers of mind, uprightness +and purity of character, and disinterestedness. Bache was more the +philosopher, the student; Stevens, the man of action. Major Stevens also +saw much of Professors Henry and Baird, of the Smithsonian. He took +pains to meet the able men in Congress, and other men of talent and +reputation who visited Washington. Occasionally of an evening he would +take his little boy by the hand, and make the rounds of Willard's and +other hotels, meeting and chatting with old army and other friends and +acquaintances. + +With but little intermission, Major Stevens was an indefatigable worker, +and never so well content as when driving his work at high pressure; and +his sound judgment guided his energy so well that he would throw off an +enormous load with astonishing rapidity. He had the faculty of getting a +great deal of work out of his subordinates. But, not realizing that +others lacked equal ability and power of labor, he was at times too +exacting and severe. He was also inclined to overrate both the good +qualities and the ability of others, and too often had cause to regret +having done so from the ingratitude of many whom he befriended. + +The two elder children, Hazard and Sue, returned to Washington in +October, and Miss Mary W. Hazard, Mrs. Stevens's sister, also came on +and spent the winter with them. + +The youngest daughter, Kate, was born in the Third Street house on +November 17, 1852. + +In September Major Stevens with Professor Bache was appointed on a +commission for the improvement of the James, Appomattox, and Cape Fear +rivers, and in November visited Richmond and Wilmington on this duty. + +But all these additional duties and pursuits made no impairment of his +vigorous hold upon, and improvement of, the Coast Survey. The character +and standing of the office was steadily rising, and able young officers +were glad to accept details in it under Major Stevens. Lieutenant John +G. Foster became his principal assistant. Professor H.E. Hilgard, who +afterwards rose to be chief of the Coast Survey, had charge of the +computing; Lieutenant Richard C. Rush, and afterwards Lieutenant A. A. +Gibson, of drawing; and Lieutenant E.B. Hunt, of engraving. The field +work, as fast as it came in, was given to the public in preliminary +sketches, or charts, which served as a great incentive both to parties +in the field, who saw at once the fruits of their labors, and to the +office force in affording a better opportunity to train the younger +members, and prepare them for the finished charts; and for the first +time the annual report was illustrated by these sketches, giving all the +field work done to date. He greatly facilitated the sale and +distribution of Coast Survey maps, declaring that "they should be +carried to every man's door having an interest in commerce, navigation, +geography, or science." He took every means to encourage and reward the +deserving, and opened the office to young men to learn the art of +engraving, for there was a scarcity of skillful engravers, most of whom +were foreigners. He reports:-- + + "The system of teaching the art of engraving to youths of promise is + succeeding admirably. By combining lessons in drawing, instructions + at night schools, with engraving, the best spirit is excited, and + the greatest excellence attained. There are now six lads in the + office, whose terms vary from two to nineteen months. + + "During the past year there has been a visible improvement of the + office in all its branches, and it is my pleasure and duty to bear + unqualified testimony to the zeal and efficiency of the several + assistants in charge of the departments, and of the numerous + employees under them. Each man has shown an honest purpose to do his + duty, and I have been much oftener obliged to moderate exertion than + to rebuke indifference and neglect." + +And Professor Bache in his reports declared:-- + + "The office under the charge of Major Stevens has improved in the + system and order of every one of its divisions; and the zeal and + ability of the assistant in charge has been reflected in the spirit + of the officers under him, and in the general diligence of the + employees. The office is characterized by a very marked spirit of + industry, of working to results, and of progress. Every + encouragement, as it should be, is afforded to those who endeavor to + advance in their several occupations. + + "The office work has, by great diligence on the part of the persons + employed, and by the excellent administrative arrangements of Major + Stevens, been kept close to the field work. In no former year have + so many preliminary sketches been promptly issued, and so much + information of various kinds been published, or furnished to the + officers of government or to individuals." + + + + + CHAPTER XV + + GOVERNOR, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.--EXPLORATION, NORTHERN ROUTE + + +The triumph of the Democratic party in November, 1853, and the election +of General Franklin Pierce as the next President insured a more vigorous +policy of exploration and settlement of the vast domain stretching from +the Mississippi to the Pacific. Major Stevens was strongly attracted to +this field. It appealed to his ambition. It afforded a greater +opportunity for public service and achievement. Prominent and gratifying +as was the position and standing he held in Washington, he realized its +limitations. He knew, too, that with the army on a peace footing and +filled with young officers, no promotion in his corps could be expected +for years. In brief, feeling the powers and ambition of a leader, he was +not content to remain longer a subordinate. + +In March Congress formed the new Territory of Washington out of the +northern half of what was then Oregon, being the territory extending +from the Columbia River and the 46th parallel northward two hundred and +fifty miles to the British Possessions and the 49th parallel, and from +the crest of the Rocky Mountains westward six hundred miles to the +Pacific, an area larger than New England and New York combined. Save a +handful of settlers on the lower Columbia and the shores of Puget Sound, +and a few missionary and trading posts in the interior, the whole vast +region was unsettled, and much of it unexplored by civilized man. It +contained many thousands of Indians, some of whom had lately been at +war with the whites, and regarded their approach with jealous and +hostile eyes; the Indian title to the land had not been extinguished; +and there were troublesome questions with the Hudson Bay Company, which +still held its posts in the Territory, and claimed extensive rights as +guaranteed by treaty. + +On March 3 Congress appropriated $150,000 for the exploration and survey +of railroad routes from the Mississippi to the Pacific, to be expended +by the Secretary of War under the direction of the President. Jefferson +Davis entered the new cabinet as Secretary of War, and it was early +determined to survey four principal routes to the Pacific. + +Early in the year Major Stevens applied for the governorship of the new +Territory, to which was attached, _ex officio_, the superintendency of +Indian affairs, and also for the charge of the exploration of the +Northern route. Either of these fields was enough to fully task the most +able and energetic man, but his ambition reached for both. Equally +characteristic was the high ground upon which he based his application. +He asked the appointment, not as the reward of political services, nor +for the sake of personal or political friendship, but because he was the +fittest man for the place, the one who could best serve the public +interests. He told General Pierce that if he could find any one else +better qualified for the position, who would accept it, it was his duty +to appoint him. There was no question on that score. But his wife and +many of his friends thought that he was making a great personal +sacrifice in relinquishing the enviable position he had attained in +Washington for the toils, hardships, and dangers of the Western +exploration and governorship. Professor Bache was of this opinion, and +deeply regretted to lose his efficient assistant and friend. + +One of the first acts of the new President was to send the name of Isaac +I. Stevens to the Senate as governor of Washington Territory; he was +confirmed, and his commission was issued March 17. He was just +thirty-four years old, in the prime of life and of mental and physical +powers. + +Major Stevens's letter of resignation from the army and General Totten's +reply show the cordial and appreciative feelings of both. + + WASHINGTON, D.C., March 21, 1853. + BRIGADIER-GENERAL JOSEPH G. TOTTEN, + _Chief Engineer._ + + _Sir_,--I herewith resign my commission of lieutenant of engineers + and brevet major United States army, to take effect on Wednesday, + the 16th instant. + + This resignation is tendered with a profound sense of the high + honor, intelligence, and sentiment of duty which is characteristic + of the officers with whom I have been associated the best years of + my life, whom I have known and honored in peace and war, in sunshine + and in storm, and whose equals I can scarcely expect to find in the + new career upon which I have entered. I shall carry into civil life + the conviction that the country owes the army a debt of gratitude, + and is yet to receive signal benefits at its hands. + + This conviction, rest assured, will show itself both in words and + deeds whenever the service has to be vindicated or maintained. + + To yourself, both personally and officially, as a friend and as a + superior officer, permit me to acknowledge the kindness and + confidence which I have received at your hands. It has had no + hindrance or interruption during the period of nearly fourteen + years, many of them years of weighty responsibilities and perplexing + cares, during which I have served under your command. + + And to me, sir, not only my commanding officer, but my honored + friend, it is the completest of satisfactions to be able to say that + during my service in the army I have not had a serious difficulty + with a brother officer, and that I am not aware that between me and + any officer in or out of the service there is the slightest feeling + of unkindness. + + Very truly and respectfully, + Your friend and obedient servant, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + +Writes General Totten in reply:-- + + While regretting that the corps of engineers are thus deprived of + the future services of an officer whose high traits of character + have, both in peace and war, so fully vindicated its position, I + anticipate the more unhesitatingly that these characteristic + qualities will continue to procure for you, in the new and wider + scenes on which you have now entered, all the rewards which they so + justly merit.... + + For myself, I have to make acknowledgment for great assistance + rendered in every form, and under all the circumstances that your + military duties admitted,--at all times fulfilling my wishes, + abridging my cares, and exalting the usefulness and reputation of + the corps. And in all our personal relations you have observed a + kind consideration which I have fully appreciated. These things have + created a warm interest in your welfare, and make me feel that, + while the service is losing a most valuable officer, I am parting + from a friend. + + I remain with high respect, + J.G. TOTTEN, + _Bvt. Brig.-Gen. and Col. Engineers._ + +Major Stevens turned over the charge of Fort Knox to Colonel John L. +Smith, and was succeeded on the Coast Survey by Captain H.W. Benham. +Major Stevens had long since overcome the ill feelings excited by the +vigorous and drastic way in which he had reformed the office, and had +long since won the confidence of the force, and their admiration as +well. They deeply regretted his departure, and in token of their esteem +presented him with a beautiful service of plate, consisting of a large +silver pitcher and salver, with two goblets, in _repoussé_ work. + + PRESENTED TO + ISAAC I. STEVENS, + GOVERNOR + OF THE TERRITORY OF WASHINGTON, + LATE BREVET MAJOR, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, U.S. A., + AND ASSISTANT IN CHARGE OF THE OFFICE OF THE + U.S. COAST SURVEY, + AS A TOKEN OF ESTEEM, BY HIS + FRIENDS ON THE SURVEY, + WASHINGTON, D.C., + MARCH, 1853. + +In his next annual report after Major Stevens had left the Coast Survey, +Professor Bache remarks:-- + + "The gain to the country in his appointment, and especially to that + new region to which he has been called, will no doubt be great, but + our loss is proportionably great. An administrative ability of a + high order was joined to unceasing activity and great force of + character; varied general and professional knowledge to great + clearness in discerning ends, and fixedness of purpose in pursuing + them; remarkable knowledge of men, and easy control of those + connected in business with him, to personal qualities which rendered + official intercourse agreeable to those about him. The system with + which he followed up plans, complicated as well as simple, insured + success in his administration, and was felt in every department of + the office, of which he had thoroughly mastered the details as well + as the general working. The experience acquired by such an officer + is invaluable to the work, and not soon to be replaced, whatever may + be the resources of his successor." + +A remark of Benham's, soon after he assumed charge, well illustrates his +egotistic and assuming character: "Major Stevens grew up with the office +from its infancy, but I grappled the lion when full-grown." Benham did +not long remain on the survey. + +Scarcely was the ink dry on his commission, when Governor Stevens set to +work to obtain charge of the exploration of the Northern route, and the +rapid and masterly way in which he effected it, and planned the survey +and increased its magnitude and importance, must have astonished the red +tape officials of Washington. As usual, all his recommendations were +based upon the highest grounds of public welfare and public service. On +March 21 he writes the Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, a strong +letter, proposing to conduct an exploration to determine the emigrant +route, and the route for a railroad from the sources of the Mississippi +to Puget Sound, and submits a memoir for accomplishing it by means of +three parties, with estimates of organization and cost in detail, and +concludes, "Should an expedition be intrusted to my charge, I pledge the +devotion of all my force, energy, and judgment to its accomplishment." + +The following day he addresses the Secretary of State, William L. Marcy, +submitting his project, and showing that he could best promote the +interests of the new Territory by exploring the route to it, obtaining a +large amount of useful information in relation to the agricultural, +mineral, commercial, and manufacturing resources, and publishing the +information thus obtained, thereby inviting emigrants, filling up the +Territory, and developing its resources. He shows that this duty need +not greatly delay the organization of territorial government, and calls +attention to-- + + "the great influence which this exploration will exercise over the + Indian tribes, the exceeding efficiency which it will give to me in + discharge of my duties as Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and the + interesting information which it will enable me to collect in regard + to their numbers, customs, locations, history, and traditions. This + I design making the subject of a special communication to the + Department of the Interior. Should my views meet the approbation of + the department, I will earnestly request that the necessary + communication be had with the War Department to arrange the + exploration in conformity with the plan which I have thus rapidly + sketched. I ask that it be done with the least possible delay, so as + to insure its complete success. I think it important that my + arrangements here should be brought to a close in sixteen days, that + previous to that time competent men be dispatched to the Mississippi + River to assure the expedition, and thus we shall all be hard at + work in the field the first week of May." + +As governor he was under the jurisdiction of the State Department. On +the same day he addresses a similar letter to the Secretary of the +Interior, Robert McClelland, for, as Superintendent of Indian Affairs, +he came under that department. Governor Stevens enforced his views by +personal interviews with the secretaries and the President; and his +earnestness, zeal for the public service, sound judgment, and strong, +convincing way of expressing his views, carried all before him. Within +four days his proposal to lead the expedition was accepted, and all his +suggestions adopted. The administration were only too glad to find such +a man to head the most important of the explorations and insure its +success. Perhaps no part of his career more clearly stamped Governor +Stevens as a born leader of men than this. At a time when the new +President and cabinet were overwhelmed with the pressing questions and +personal claims ever engrossing the incoming administration, a mere +subordinate, not content to simply await the instructions of his +superiors, surveys the whole field of Western exploration intrusted to +him, and its attendant problems of white settlement, Indians, etc., with +comprehensive and far-sighted vision, decides upon the measures and +action required by the needs of the country and the public service, and +then so impresses his views upon the President and three great +departments by sheer force of character, earnest patriotism, and sound, +good sense, that all his recommendations are adopted without delay, and +he is given _carte blanche_ to carry them out. The bare conception, if +broached in March, when the new administration assumed charge, of +obtaining both the governorship of Washington Territory and the charge +of the Northern Pacific exploration, of inducing three secretaries to +adopt his measures, of completely organizing and outfitting and starting +in the field a great expedition for the survey of two thousand miles of +wilderness, and all to be accomplished within two months, would have +seemed not merely bold, but visionary and presumptuous, and nothing +could have relieved Governor Stevens from such reproach but the fact +that all this he actually accomplished. + +The following letter to Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War, shows how +energetically Governor Stevens was already gathering information and +assistance for the exploration. The last part touches upon a delicate +question, the placing army officers under the command of a civilian, as +Governor Stevens now was, a thing repugnant to all military ideas and +usages, and almost without precedent. But Governor Stevens held that his +case was altogether exceptional, and found no difficulty in securing the +voluntary services of as many able officers as he needed. It is believed +that there is no similar instance in our history where twelve army +officers came under the command of a civilian:-- + + WASHINGTON, March 25, 1853. + + HON. JEFFERSON DAVIS, _Secretary of War_. + + _Sir_,--I am now quite certain that a sufficient number of army + officers will volunteer to go with me on the proposed exploration + from the headwaters of the Mississippi to Puget Sound, as will much + reduce the force of civilians to be employed. Several accomplished + officers would be glad to be detailed, and would do effective + service as astronomers, engineers, artists, naturalists, + draughtsmen, etc. I can make arrangements both with the American Fur + and Hudson Bay Company for active coöperation and assistance. The + distinguished geologist, Dr. J. Evans, who has gone over the + greater portion of the country between the Mississippi and the + Pacific, has explored two of the passes in the Rocky Mountains north + of the South Pass, and has received much information of the + topography of the country, has kindly given me much valuable + information, and is ready to coöperate with all his energy in a plan + whereby each shall render to the other every possible facility, and + best promote the public service without an unnecessary expenditure + of means. + + I think it exceedingly important that the whole exploration from the + Mississippi River to Puget Sound, including a thorough examination + of the passes of the Cascade Range, should be placed under the + charge of the same person, he, under general instructions from the + department, giving the necessary direction to the several parties, + thus securing united and energetic action, and guarding against the + almost certain failure of the expedition should it be divided into + two independent commands. As soon as the department shall decide + upon the scale of the operations, and shall issue its orders + assigning me to the duty, which I presume from the correspondence + with the Department of State to be definitely decided upon, I will + at once submit a more detailed plan of operations, and make the + necessary requisition for the detail of officers, and for the + various facilities which may be extended by the administrative + branches of the service. As in the Coast Survey, I propose no + assignment of officers except by their own desire, and of officers + who have especial adaptation to the particular duty. + + Very respectfully your obedient servant, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + +Among his first acts Governor Stevens, on March 31, applied for Brevet +Captain George B. McClellan, then in Texas, to be "at once assigned to +duty with me as my principal officer. I design to put him in charge of +the exploration of the Cascade Range, and I can not only speak with +confidence of his great ability for the particular duty, but as his +friend can say that the duty will be in the highest degree agreeable to +him." + + WASHINGTON, April 5, 1853. + + MY DEAR MCCLELLAN,--I have succeeded in securing your detail to take + charge of the Western party in the Northern Pacific Railroad survey. + + You will get the orders to-day, and be directed probably to repair + to New Orleans, and there await instructions. The route is from St. + Paul, Minn., to Puget Sound by the great bend of the Missouri River + through a pass in the Rocky Mountains near the 49th parallel. A + strong party will operate westward from St. Paul; a second but + smaller party will go up the Missouri to the Yellowstone, and there + make arrangements, reconnoitre the country, etc., and on the + junction of the main party they will push through the Blackfoot + country, and, reaching the Rocky Mountains, will keep at work there + during the summer months. The third party, under your command, will + be organized in the Puget Sound region, you and your scientific + corps going over the Isthmus, and will operate in the Cascade Range, + and meet the party coming from the Rocky Mountains. + + As soon as my force is at work in these mountains, I shall push + forward with a small reconnoitring force and find you, and, after + conference with you, arrange the entire plan of operations. + + Your scientific corps will consist of a physician and naturalist, an + astronomer, a draughtsman and barometer man, and an officer of the + artillery, Johnson K. Duncan, who, I am informed by Foster, is a + strong friend of yours, and will work under you. You will have + authority to call upon the officers and troops stationed in the + Territories of Oregon and Washington, and I have no doubt you will + be able to secure valuable assistance. At the same time funds will + be placed in your hands to hire suitable guides, hunters, etc. A + complete set of instruments and appliances will be sent with the + necessary instructions. + + Your friend, Professor Baird, is arranging the natural history part + of the business. The expedition will be altogether the most complete + that has ever set out in this country, and if we are true to it, the + results will be satisfactory to the country. The amount of work in + the Cascade Range and eastward, say to the probable junction of the + parties at the great bend of the north fork of the Columbia River, + will be immense. Recollect, the main object is a railroad survey + from the headwaters of the Mississippi River to Puget Sound. + + We must rely upon the ordinary astronomical observations in the + field, upon the odometer and barometer and the compass, for getting + the direction, length, and profiles of routes. With the sextant for + determining height along the route, and with a good sketcher and + draughtsman, you will be able to get good results. I may get for you + a small detachment of sappers, and I shall try to get you assigned + to duty according to your brevet rank. + + I telegraphed you some days since, asking your views, but in + consequence of your great distance from Washington it was essential + to act at once. Knowing your views so intimately in relation to such + service, and venturing on our long acquaintance and mutual + friendship, I have in the strongest terms pressed your case, on the + ground that, could you be consulted, the duty would be sought by + you. In my telegraphic message I informed you that I was put in + charge of the duty in consequence of my civil position. It has been + done at the joint desire of the War Department, of the Department of + State, and of the Department of the Interior. Officers have + volunteered for the service, and I shall receive the services of + several very valuable and experienced men. I have in the strongest + terms taken the ground that my having left the army and standing in + a civil position would not, under the circumstances of the case, be + any objection on your part to acting under my direction. + + As your friend, and knowing the opportunity for distinction it would + give you, I would not hesitate for a moment. + + One word more as to the railroad survey. We must not be frightened + with long tunnels or enormous snows, but set ourselves to work to + overcome them. When you reach New Orleans you will find your + instructions. + + Truly your friend, + ISAAC I. STEVENS. + +The warning in the last paragraph seems almost prophetic; for, as will +be seen hereafter, McClellan's fear of deep snows caused him to fail in +an important part of his survey of the Cascade passes, viz., the +determining the depth of winter snow. + +Governor Stevens also obtained the detail for his survey of Lieutenant +A.J. Donelson, of the engineer corps, and ten non-commissioned officers +and men, of the engineer company, also known as sappers and miners, and +of Lieutenant Beekman Du Barry, of the 3d artillery. He also obtained +from the War Department authority to call upon the several army +administrative departments for transportation, subsistence, and arms, +and even the pay of two civilian surgeons and naturalists, thus +providing for all the expenses of the expedition except those pertaining +to civilians employed as a scientific corps and their assistants, which +were to be defrayed by the funds allotted to the Northern route out of +the civil appropriation, viz., $40,000 out of the $150,000 thus +appropriated. By these arrangements he vastly increased the extent, +thoroughness, and value of his exploration. + +On April 7 Governor Stevens sent Lieutenant Donelson to Montreal armed +with letters from the British Minister in Washington to Sir George +Simpson, governor of the Hudson Bay Company, to obtain all the +information possible relative to the country from the Great Lakes to the +Pacific, the location of the trading-posts, the amount of supplies +obtainable from them for the exploration party in case of emergency, the +names of hunters and half-breeds who might serve as guides and +interpreters, and to learn all possible about the geography, and examine +all books and maps, making copies of the latter if necessary, etc. + + "The information we already have of this region," he writes + Donelson, "is based upon the following works: Lewis and Clarke's + Travels; Irving's Astoria and Rocky Mountains; Travels by the + Missionary De Smet, Nicollet, and Pope; Governor Simpson's Journey + around the World; and some information, not yet published, obtained + from Dr. Evans on his geological survey of those regions. A book + recommended by the British Minister, 'Hudson Bay Company,' by + Montgomery Martin, I wish you to obtain. He suggested it might be + obtained from Governor Simpson. As soon as you have finished your + inquiries at Montreal, which I think you can do in a week, return to + Washington, and report to me in person. + + "In reference to the detachment (sappers), it is necessary that the + men be selected with great care. None should be taken who cannot + assist the scientific corps as sketchers, draughtsmen, or + collectors, etc. It is necessary that they should be put under + special training. Captain Seymour, perhaps, might be willing to take + charge of one, and Lieutenant Du Barry of another, giving them + instructions in the use of the barometer and astronomical + instruments used in the field." + +This is interesting as showing how little was then known of the region +to be explored, and how few and meagre were the works describing it. + +Governor Stevens had thus been driving the work of preparation and +organization for a fortnight, when, on April 8, the formal order placing +him in charge and giving full instructions was issued by the War +Department. These instructions exactly embody his own suggestions, much +of them in the very language of his letters and memoir to Secretary +Davis. In fact, he really prepared his own instructions. The following +brief synopsis will give some idea of the scope and magnitude of the +exploration, of the task Governor Stevens had set himself:-- + +1. The exploration and survey of a route for a railroad from the sources +of the Mississippi River to Puget Sound is placed in charge of Isaac I. +Stevens, governor of the Territory of Washington, to whom all officers +detailed for the same will report for instructions. + +2. To operate from St. Paul, or some eligible point on the Upper +Mississippi, towards the great bend of the Missouri River, and thence +on the table-land between the tributaries of the Missouri and the +Saskatchewan to some eligible pass in the Rocky Mountains. A depot to be +established at Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone, with a +subsidiary party to await the coming of the main party. A second party +to proceed to Puget Sound and explore the passes of the Cascade Range, +meeting the eastern party between that range and the Rocky Mountains, as +may be arranged by Governor Stevens. + +3. To explore the passes of the Cascade Range and Rocky Mountains from +the 49th parallel to the headwaters of the Missouri River, and to +determine the capacity of the adjacent country to supply, and of the +Columbia and Missouri rivers and their tributaries to transport, +materials for the construction of the road, great attention to be given +geography and meteorology of the whole intermediate region, to the +seasons and character of freshets; the quantities and continuance of its +rains and snows, especially in the mountain ranges; to its geology; in +arid regions the use of artesian wells; its botany, natural history, +agricultural and mineral resources; the location, numbers, history, +traditions, and customs of its Indian tribes; and such other facts as +shall tend to develop the character of that portion of our national +domain, and supply all the facts that enter into the solution of the +particular problem of a railroad. + +4-7. Assigns to survey, in addition to those already assigned, Captain +John W.T. Gardiner, 1st dragoons; Second Lieutenant Johnson K. Duncan, +3d artillery; Second Lieutenant Rufus Saxton, 4th artillery; Second +Lieutenant Cuvier Grover, 4th artillery; and Brevet Second Lieutenant +John Mullan, 1st artillery; and twenty picked men of the 1st dragoons +and two officers and thirty men to Captain McClellan's party. + +8. The administrative branches of the army, on requisition approved by +Governor Stevens, to supply the officers, soldiers, and civil employees +of the expedition (except the scientific corps and their assistants), +with transportation, subsistence, medical stores, and arms, and to +furnish funds for the same when not supplied in kind. + +9-10. After completion of field work, the expedition to rendezvous at +some suitable point in Washington Territory to be designated by Governor +Stevens, and reports to be prepared. Officers and enlisted men to be +sent to their stations and employees to be discharged. + +11. $40,000 set apart from the appropriation for the survey thus +intrusted to Governor Stevens. + +It is difficult to realize the magnitude of the task here outlined. It +was to traverse and explore a domain two thousand miles in length by two +hundred and fifty in breadth, stretching from the Mississippi River to +the Pacific Ocean, across a thousand miles of arid plains and two great +mountain ranges, a region almost unexplored, and infested by powerful +tribes of predatory and warlike savages; to determine the navigability +of the two great rivers, the Missouri and the Columbia, which intersect +the region; to locate by reconnoissance and to survey a practicable +railroad route; to examine the mountain passes and determine the depth +of winter snows in them; to collect all possible information on the +geology, climate, flora and fauna, as well as the topography, of the +region traversed; and finally to treat with the Indians on the route, +cultivate their friendship, and collect information as to their +languages, numbers, customs, traditions, and history; and all this, +including the work of preparation and organization, to be accomplished +in a single season. + +It was Governor Stevens's plan to effect this vast work by means of two +parties operating simultaneously from both ends of the route, the +principal one starting from St. Paul at the eastern end, under his own +immediate charge; and the other, starting from the western end, under +McClellan, to meet on the upper Columbia plains between the two great +mountain ranges; and two subsidiary parties,--one, under Lieutenant +Donelson, to ascend the Missouri to Fort Union with a stock of supplies, +and there await the coming of the main party; and the other, under +Lieutenant Saxton, to proceed from the lower Columbia to the Bitter Root +valley, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, with an additional stock of +supplies for the main party. The subsidiary parties were also to examine +the country traversed by them, and collect all the information possible +bearing on the various objects of the expedition. By this plan McClellan +was required simply to explore the Cascade Range, or about 200 miles of +the route; while Governor Stevens allotted all the remainder, some 1800 +miles, including the great plains, the Rocky and Bitter Root Mountains, +to the parties under his immediate charge. + +During the next four weeks Governor Stevens drove forward the work of +preparing and organizing the expedition with tremendous energy. He +applied for and obtained the assignments of officers and men from the +army; made requisitions upon the administrative branches for supplies +and funds for the several parties; obtained $6000 from the Interior +Department for the purchase of Indian goods and for treating with them; +employed A. W. Tinkham, his former assistant at Fort Knox, and Fred. W. +Lander, afterwards the Brigadier-General Lander who was wounded at +Ball's Bluff and died of his wounds, as civil engineers; appointed +George W. Stevens as secretary and astronomer; placed Professor Baird, +of the Smithsonian, in charge of the zoölogical and botanical +collections, and of preparing the outfits and instructions for field +work; made Isaac Osgood, his former clerk at Bucksport, disbursing +officer; Dr. John Evans, geologist; Drs. George Suckley and J.G. +Cooper, surgeons and naturalists; J.M. Stanley, artist, and engaged a +number of other subordinates, including six young gentlemen who went as +aides. + +Early in April Lieutenant Saxton and Lieutenant Duncan started for the +Columbia via the Isthmus and San Francisco, with detailed instructions, +that no time might be lost in organizing the western parties, and were +followed by McClellan as soon as he reached Washington from Texas and +received his instructions. He was also furnished by Governor Stevens +with letters from Sir George Simpson to the officers of the Hudson Bay +Company's posts, and with letters from the governor to many of the +prominent American settlers in Washington and Oregon, and also a +circular letter bespeaking their goodwill and support for Captain +McClellan. + +Governor Stevens also placed under McClellan's charge the construction +of a military wagon-road from Fort Steilacoom, on Puget Sound, to Fort +Walla Walla on the Columbia, for which Congress had appropriated +$20,000, and which the Secretary of War had placed in Governor Stevens's +hands, with authority to assign an officer or a civil engineer to its +construction, as he deemed best. The governor gave very full +instructions in regard to this road; furnished the names of prominent +citizens and advised McClellan to consult with them as to the best +location for the road, and gave him full notes of his correspondence +with them bearing on the matter. + +Sir George Simpson having proposed to forward an extra stock of supplies +to his posts in the interior for the expedition, Governor Stevens made +haste to decline the proffered assistance, not wishing to incur such an +obligation to a foreign company, assuring Sir George that his own +government would provide ample supplies, and that he merely wished to +know what the company's posts could spare from their usual stock in +case of emergency. On this point he is emphatic in his instructions to +Saxton and McClellan:-- + + "I am exceedingly desirous no exertion should be spared to have + means of our own for our expedition, and shall much prefer to be in + condition to extend aid than to be obliged to receive aid from + others. Whilst we will gratefully receive aid from the company in + case of necessity, let it be our determination to have within + ourselves the means of the most complete efficacy. I am more and + more convinced that in our operations we should be self-dependent, + and whilst we exchange courtesies and hospitalities with the Hudson + Bay Company, the people and the Indians of the Territory should see + that we have all the elements of success in our hands. The Indians + must look to us for protection and counsel. They must see that we + are their true friends, and be taught not to look, as they have been + accustomed to, to the Hudson Bay Company. I am so impressed with + this fact that I wish no Indian presents to be procured from British + posts. I am determined, in my intercourse with the Indians, to break + up the ascendency of the Hudson Bay Company, and permit no authority + or sanction to come between the Indians and the officers of this + government." + +The Hudson Bay Company still held trading-posts in the new Territory at +Steilacoom, Vancouver, Walla Walla, and Colville, and claimed extensive +but ill-defined rights and possessions, and its officers lost no +opportunity to cultivate the goodwill of Governor Stevens, hoping to win +his favoring view, if not support, of their claims. + +Lieutenants Donelson and Mullan, with part of the sappers, were sent to +St. Louis to prepare the supplies, etc., for ascending the Missouri to +Fort Union. Governor Stevens had already ascertained by correspondence +the character of the river boats at St. Louis and at Pittsburg, and the +cost of purchasing or chartering them, but was unable to find one of +sufficiently light draught and power, and therefore decided to send the +party by the American Fur Company's boat. + +Captain Gardiner was dispatched to St. Paul to select the dragoon +detachment, establish a camp, and make preliminary arrangements for +starting the main party afield as early as possible. The civil +engineers, Lander and Tinkham, were also sent to the same point to +examine the crossings of the Mississippi and their approaches. + +Lieutenant Grover, as assistant quartermaster and commissary of the +expedition, was also sent to St. Louis, assisted by a civilian employee, +to procure supplies and forward them to St. Paul. Lieutenant Du Barry +was directed to push on beyond St. Paul to Pembina to procure guides. + +The most detailed and careful instructions were furnished all these +officers; requisitions and arrangements made with the officers of the +army administrative branches in Washington, St. Louis, St. Paul, San +Francisco, and Vancouver for the outfit and supply of the different +parties; all existing information in the way of maps, reports, etc., was +copied and furnished, and full instructions for the making and +preservation of natural history collections, and for the astronomical +and meteorological observations were prepared and printed, and placed in +the hands of all those having charge of those branches. + +The very full, carefully considered, and complete instructions given +these various officers by Governor Stevens would fill two hundred pages. +They are not only a remarkable monument of industry, but show a complete +grasp and mastery of the whole field, great foresight of the conditions +and difficulties to be encountered, and are remarkably clear and precise +in stating the objects to be obtained, but leave much to the judgment of +the officer addressed in the ways and means of attaining them. + +Not content with omnivorously devouring all the books, reports, and +maps upon the field of operations, and seeking information by +correspondence with the officers of the Hudson Bay Company and citizens +of Oregon and Washington, Governor Stevens procured and studied all the +available works on the steppes of Russia and Asia, as throwing light +upon the formation and characteristics of the great plains. + +During these four weeks the Third Street house was filled with clerks +and draughtsmen, hard at work on instructions, requisitions, maps, etc., +with officers and civil employees conferring as to their duties and +making preparations, and with many others anxious to accompany the +expedition and seeking positions upon it; and was crammed from garret to +cellar with books, maps, papers, instruments, arms, and other +paraphernalia incident to such an undertaking. Professor Baird took the +greatest interest in the scientific collections, preparing rules, and +getting up panniers and apparatus, and made that feature so important +that Governor Stevens was impelled to say, "I want you to understand, +Professor Baird, that my exploration is something more than a +natural-history expedition." The fitting out of the expedition attracted +much attention in Washington, and the parlors were filled every evening +with gentlemen connected with or interested in it. Among them was Fred. +W. Lander, a tall, athletic young man, confident in bearing, frank and +ready in conversation, and fond of relating the adventurous experiences +and escapes, especially with horses, into which his daring not to say +reckless disposition often led him. Lieutenant George B. McClellan, +afterwards the well-known commander of the Army of the Potomac, was of +charming manners and personality. On being asked how he liked being +under Governor Stevens, he replied, "At any rate, I shall serve under a +man of brains." Lieutenants Saxton and Grover rose to be major-generals +in the Civil War. General Joseph Lane, who represented Oregon in +Congress, was a frequent caller. He was a man of native grace and +dignity of manner and fine character,--one of nature's noblemen. + +The energy and capacity for effective work displayed by Governor Stevens +during this time astonished his friends. His labors with the pen alone +were enough to fully occupy any man. Besides this, he was incessantly +engaged in consultations, conferences, and interviews with the +subordinates and others, and was embracing every opportunity of talking +with men who had experience on the plains or the Pacific coast. George +Stevens declared that no human being could stand such a strain, and on +another occasion exclaimed, "The major is crazy, actually crazy, or he +never could work as he does!" + +In just a month from the date of the order placing him in charge, +Governor Stevens had effected the whole work of organization and +outfitting, and on May 9 left Washington for St. Paul to start the +expedition. During the same month he also broke up housekeeping, +disposed of his furniture, and moved his family into private lodgings. +His wife was seriously ill, and was obliged to remain in Washington with +her young child and her sister Mary until sufficiently recovered to +stand the journey to Newport. + +He also at this time selected and purchased of D. Appleton & Co., of New +York, the Territorial Library,--for which $5000 had been appropriated by +Congress,--and had the books sent out by sea around Cape Horn. This was +no small task, for he went over the lists of books and made the +selection with great pains. He stated in his first message to the +legislature that he had taken care to get the best books in each +department of learning, and had applied to the executive of every State +and Territory and to many learned societies to donate their +publications. + +This work is not the place to narrate the progress and results of that +great exploration and survey. They are ably and fully recorded by +Governor Stevens himself in three large volumes, comprising 1500 pages, +with many views and illustrations, published by Congress, being the +first and twelfth volumes (the latter in two parts) of "Reports of the +Explorations and Surveys for a Railroad Route from the Mississippi River +to the Pacific Ocean." And it is only from these pages that one can +learn and appreciate with what thoroughness and completeness Governor +Stevens executed the vast work intrusted to him. For years these volumes +were the great storehouse of information relating to the region treated +by them, the source of innumerable reports and articles, and are to-day +full of interest and valuable information. These reports really embody +the results of three years' labors. And it will be related farther on +how Governor Stevens, not content with having most successfully +conducted his exploration across the continent in one season and fully +performed his instructions, did, of his own patriotic devotion to the +public interests, carry on that great work for two years longer, using +the Indian service and the volunteer forces under his command, and gave +the full and final results of his labors in vol. xii., published in +1860. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI + + THE PARTY.--THE START + + +Leaving Washington May 9, and, after spending a day in New York to +complete arrangements, going by way of Detroit and Chicago, Governor +Stevens reached St. Louis on the 15th. Here he was disappointed in +finding the outfits not so far advanced as he expected, and was even +seriously alarmed at the mules furnished by the St. Louis quartermaster, +which were only three or four years old, and perfectly wild and +unbroken. This was the more inexcusable from the fact that he had +previously sent Mr. Charles Taplin to St. Louis with instructions that +only well-broken and serviceable animals were to be procured. +Consequently he remained there a week hastening the necessary outfits, +during which time he started Lieutenant Donelson's party up the Missouri +on the American Fur Company's steamboat with Lieutenant Mullan, Mr. +William H. Graham, and six sappers, and 10,000 rations. Dr. John Evans +and Mr. Alexander Culbertson also accompanied them. The latter, having +spent twenty years on the upper Missouri as a fur-trader and married a +Blackfoot squaw, had great influence over that warlike tribe. He was +appointed by Governor Stevens as special agent for these predatory and +intractable savages, and sent forward to prepare the way for the +expedition through their country by securing guides and hunters and +arranging for a council. + +Leaving St. Louis on the 23d and proceeding up the Mississippi, Governor +Stevens, in order to repair the neglect of the quartermaster, purchased +at the several landings and at Galena a number of teams of strong, +well-broken mules and horses, in some instances taking them off the +wagons where they were at work. Four days were spent on the Father of +Waters. + + "Leaving Galena on the 25th," says the governor, "on the steamer + Nominee, we proceeded up the river, and were enabled to make short + stops at Dubuque, Prairie du Chien, Lansing, La Crosse, and other + places. Intervals of leisure were employed in reporting fully to the + War and Interior Departments my proceedings thus far, and the + arrangements in contemplation for the execution of my several + trusts. The scenery on the Mississippi is bold and at times + beautiful, though but little variety is presented. Bluff banks on + both sides, topped with trees, line its banks, and occasionally + marked views occur, among which I might mention as most prominent + Lake Pepin, Maiden Rock, Barn Bluffs, etc. + + "St. Paul is beautifully situated upon a high bluff on the east bank + of the river, and is rapidly growing in size and importance." + +St. Paul is said in the report to have then had a population of 1200. + +While on the Nominee, Governor Stevens writes a letter of eight pages to +his wife's brother, Mr. Daniel L. Hazard, who had had much experience +with Mississippi boats,--but was then at Newport recovering from +malarial illness,--on the draught, power, and size of steamboats +suitable for the navigation of the upper Missouri, and suggests to him +the opportunity for steamboating on Puget Sound, concluding with the +following remarks, showing his own feelings towards the new country, and +how completely he was adopting it:-- + + "I have no doubt that it is one of the most delightful and + salubrious regions in the whole country, with all the health of + Newport, but with a grandeur and largeness of scenery far surpassing + it. It is just such a place as I have for many years proposed to + myself, one of these days, to carve out a home. I am satisfied my + family will all be pleased with their new home, and that we will be + willing to settle down there for life." + +Long before daylight the next morning after reaching St. Paul, Governor +Stevens was in the saddle, riding to the camp established by Captain +Gardiner two days before, and had the pleasure of rousing the gentlemen +of the expedition from their sleep. The camp was situated on the borders +of Lake Amelia, about nine miles from St. Paul and about three northwest +from Fort Snelling, and, in honor of the President, the governor named +it Camp Pierce. + + "About a quarter of a mile to the eastward lay another lake, + connected with Lake Amelia by a creek, which was very convenient for + watering our animals, and formed a fine meadow on which they grazed. + These lakes furnished us with fish in abundance, consisting of bass, + pickerel, and sunfish. + + "The mules presented a fine appearance, and were apparently strong + and healthy, though young, and even more unbroken and unserviceable + than I had feared. Not a single full team of broken animals could be + selected, and well-broken riding animals were essential, for most of + the gentlemen of the scientific corps were unaccustomed to riding. I + felt that time was precious and a great difficulty to be overcome, + so at once resolved that the whole force should set to work to break + them. Fortunately, my purchase of mules along the river enabled me + to break in the animals rapidly to the teams, by which they were + started several days earlier than otherwise could have been done." + +A letter of George W. Stevens gives the following amusing account of the +scenes which occurred when every man, by the governor's order, set to +work to break his own mule:-- + + "Of the 200 mules received, much to the chagrin and disappointment + of the major, not ten of them were broken. But though the unbroken + and unqualified age of our young mules presented a hindrance, the + major has the more vigorously cut out his plans. In a week's time, + of very hard labor on the part of the men, we were able to move. + Even the members of the scientific corps put their shoulders to the + wheel, and each gentleman broke his own riding animal. The operation + of breaking these most stubborn of creatures was highly exciting and + interesting. First they were tolled into a corral by leading in the + bell mare, which they follow with the most laughable devotion. Then + lassos were thrown over their necks, and after a long process of + choking and hauling they were sufficiently exhausted to allow + themselves to be led out and tied to a long picket rope stretched + across stakes some four feet high. They did not at all relish the + feeling of the rope about their necks, and such capers as they cut + up, turning summersets 'both before and behind,' throwing themselves + upon the ground, and jumping and doubling themselves with all the + agility of the cat. At length nearly all of the 200 were tied to the + picket rope, and, after a sufficiently elapsed interval to regain + their minds and strength, the same antics were gone through with + again. Some leaped over the ropes, some tangled themselves with + their lariats. Breaking them to the saddle proved highly + interesting. After breakfast each morning we all went out and + saddled our own animals, and spent an hour or two in a _pleasant + drive_. Behold some fifteen or twenty of us mounted; off we start, + and in a moment all sorts of scenes are being enacted. Here one is + thrown headforemost; here one is borne through the air with + lightning speed, fortunate if not brushed off beneath the scrubby + oaks. Some of the mules lie down, and some persist in running among + a number of picketed animals, and tangling themselves in the + lariats; the riders--however good--are sent 'bounding through the + air.' I had a truly tough job in breaking my animal. Every time I + mounted her I was sure to be thrown, and it was not until some + weeks' march that she became well trained, but afterwards there was + not a better-broken mule in the train. Many were badly beaten and + bruised in the breaking operation, and certainly a whole month's + delay in our arrival at Fort Union was the result of the selection + of these young, unbroken animals by the St. Louis quartermaster." + +The next few days the rains were almost incessant; but, says the +governor, June 1:-- + + "Although it rained heavily all day, every one in camp was engaged + in breaking mules, causing many an amusing scene. Several of the + party were thrown repeatedly, but the determination they evince must + overcome all obstacles; and I feel not only pleased to see their + spirit, but to congratulate myself and them that no accident has + occurred worthy of mention. Much hilarity was produced by the + efforts of different persons, and each fall occasioned a laugh. Thus + what I had seriously expected to prove a great difficulty was, in + the midst of heavy rains and gloomy weather, a source of mirthful + enjoyment." + +The main party here organized, including a few members who joined soon +after starting, consisted of Governor Isaac I. Stevens; Lieutenant +Cuvier Grover, 4th artillery; Lieutenant Beekman Du Barry, 3d artillery; +detachment of four sappers; detachment of twenty men, 1st dragoons; +Fred. W. Lander, A.W. Tinkham, civil engineers; Dr. George Suckley, +surgeon and naturalist; Isaac F. Osgood, disbursing agent; J.M. Stanley, +artist; John Lambert, topographer; George W. Stevens, secretary and +astronomer; James Doty, A. Remenyi, astronomical and magnetic +observations; Joseph F. Moffett, meteorologist; T.S. Everett, +quartermaster and commissary clerk; Elwood Evans, Thomas Adams, F.H. +Burr, Max Strobel, A. Jekelfaluzy, B.F. Kendall, ---- Evelyn, aides; +C.P. Higgins, wagon-master; William Simpson, pack-master; Pierre +Boutineau, Le Frambois, Belland, Henry Boulieau, Paul Boulieau, guides; +Menoc, hunter; and sixty teamsters, packers, and voyageurs, numbering +altogether one hundred and eleven members. Captain Gardiner was relieved +from duty in consequence of illness, and did not accompany the +expedition. + +The pay was certainly moderate: $125 for Mr. Stanley, the artist; $100 +to the civil engineers, Lander and Tinkham; and $25 to each aide, per +month. + +The subsidiary party, ascending the Missouri to Fort Union, where it was +to join the main party, consisted of Lieutenant A.J. Donelson, engineer +corps; Lieutenant John Mullan, 1st artillery; six sappers; William M. +Graham, astronomer; Dr. John Evans, geologist; Alexander Culbertson, +special Indian agent. + +The other subsidiary party, which met the main party in the Rocky +Mountains, consisted of Lieutenant Rufus Saxton, 4th artillery; +Lieutenant Robert Macfeely, 4th infantry; Lieutenant Richard Arnold, 3d +artillery; Mr. D.L. Arnold; Mr. D.S. Hoyt; detachment of eighteen +soldiers; twenty-nine packers, herders, etc.,--in all, fifty-two. + +The western party consisted of Lieutenant George B. McClellan; +Lieutenant Johnson K. Duncan, 3d artillery, astronomer, etc.; Lieutenant +Henry C. Hodges, 4th infantry, quartermaster and commissary; Lieutenant +Sylvester Mowry, 3d artillery, meteorologist; George Gibbs, geologist +and ethnologist; J.F. Minter, civil engineer; Dr. J.C. Cooper, surgeon +and naturalist; Mr. Lewis, interpreter; detachment of twenty-eight +soldiers; thirty civil employees,--in all, sixty-six in number. + +The entire force under Governor Stevens's command for the exploration +comprised eleven officers and seventy-six enlisted men of the army, +thirty-three members of the scientific corps, and one hundred and twenty +civilian employees, teamsters, packers, guides, herders, voyageurs, +etc.,--altogether, some two hundred and forty. + +Governor Stevens's general plan was, while surveying a continuous +compass and odometer line with the principal train, to keep detached +parties far out on the sides of the route, examining the topography of +the country, and gathering all possible information concerning it, and +thus to embrace the widest possible field in the exploration. The +following pages will give simply the governor's personal experiences on +the expedition, and largely in his own language, referring the reader to +his reports, especially the final report in vol. xii., for the details +of this most interesting exploration. + + "As rapidly as the breaking-in of the mules and heavy rains for half + the time allowed, the expedition moved seventy miles up the + Mississippi in detachments, crossed to the west bank, and on June 10 + were again assembled on the Sauk River, two miles above its mouth, + in Camp Davis, so named in honor of the Secretary of War. In this + first movement of the expedition on the 31st, Lander was sent ahead + to explore, and Tinkham to run the survey line. Doty on June 3, and + Simpson on 4th, took the route with small trains, with such animals + as were sufficiently broken in to be worked, and on the 6th Camp + Pierce was broken up, and the remainder of the force followed in + three parties, Grover with the scientific men and instruments by + steamboat, Du Barry with Stanley, Dr. Suckley and sixteen dragoons, + and Everett with the train, both these by land up the east bank of + the river. Thus, despite the mules and the weather, the least + possible time was lost in starting afield, and the young + subordinates were being taught to command and operate detachments, + which the governor regarded as of great importance, 'in order to + infuse hope into the whole party, and avail myself of the present + high spirit of the camp.'" + +Having seen the several parties started off, and the camp broken up, the +governor continues:-- + + I remained at St. Anthony until noon of June 7 to secure the + services of several voyageurs, and particularly of the guide Pierre + Boutineau and the hunter Menoc, in which I was successful, and + starting about noon, and taking a rapid conveyance, I pushed forward + the same day forty miles, overtaking at Rum River Lieutenant Du + Barry, and, some miles beyond, both Doty and Simpson, and reaching + Sauk Rapids, a distance of thirty miles farther, by eleven A.M., + found Mr. Tinkham actively engaged in the survey of that portion of + the river. The crossing at St. Anthony is by a rope ferry, its + motive power being the action of the current, having a short rope at + the bow and a longer or slack rope astern. On the west side of the + Mississippi, about three miles above Rum River, there was a large + encampment of Winnebago Indians, consisting of about one hundred + lodges. These are constructed of oak bark, fastened by strips of + buckskin over arched poles, resembling in shape the cover of a + wagon; they are about eight feet high, and from ten to thirty feet + long, according to the number of families to be accommodated. The + chief's lodge in the centre is much larger, and distinguished by the + flags upon it, two British and two American colors. The shores are + lined with canoes, and the village extends an eighth of a mile along + the river. The country, for the first seven miles after leaving camp + and striking the St. Anthony road, is a wet prairie. After leaving + St. Anthony the country appears to rise towards the north; the road + lies on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, along the plateau, + which is generally timbered with the smaller varieties of oak, in + some places forming beautiful groves. On the road, and at Sauk + Rapids, several additional men were engaged, among them some + Canadian voyageurs. These men, being sometimes half-breeds, speak a + jargon of patois French, Chippewa, and other Indian dialects. They + are a hardy, willing, enduring class, and used to encounter all + sorts of difficulties in their journey between different posts of + the fur companies. They must be treated with kindness and a certain + degree of familiarity, and, their confidence and affections being + secured, they are the most obedient and hard-working fellows in the + world. This morning I learned that Lieutenant Grover and his + steamboat party had landed late last evening about five miles below + Sauk River, and had there encamped. In the afternoon, accompanied by + Boutineau, I crossed the Mississippi to find him, and went three + miles in a drenching rain without reaching his position. + + I dispatched Henry Boulieau in search of Lander, and he returned + with the information that Lander was about eighteen miles ahead at + Cold Spring, and that he had made there a good crossing for wagons. + + June 9. I went to Mr. Lander's camp, and examined the crossing, + which I find to be practicable, and the work well done. + + June 10. I returned to Lieutenant Grover's camp, which was + beautifully situated on the north bank of the Osakis or Sauk River, + about two miles from its mouth. The grass was indifferent and + backward, but, with half rations of oats, abundant for the animals; + water excellent. In honor of the Secretary of War, we named it Camp + Davis. Lieutenant Du Barry arrived this afternoon with his party, as + did the small trains of Doty and Simpson. A very severe + thunderstorm, with heavy rain for about five hours, occurred at + night, amounting in the rain-gauge to 6.1 inches. + + My acquaintance with the voyageurs, thus far, has impressed me + favorably. They are thorough woodsmen, and just the men for prairie + life also, going into the water as pleasantly as a spaniel, and + remaining there as long as needed; stout, able-bodied, and willing + to put their shoulders to the wheel whenever necessary; no slough or + bog deters them. + + Camp Davis, two miles west of the Mississippi River, + June 10, 1853. + + MY DEAREST WIFE,--We are getting on finely. Camp Pierce was broken + up on Monday, and in five days we have gone up the river seventy + miles, and the bulk of the party is now west of the Mississippi. + Yesterday I rode forward twenty-six miles to the crossing of the + Sauk River to make arrangements for the advance of the civil + engineer party. I had previously traveled rapidly from St. Anthony + to Sauk Rapids in a carriage, passing all the parties on the road. + It was a beautiful ride all the way, and I had a most interesting + companion in Pierre Boutineau, the great guide and voyageur of + Minnesota. He is famous as a buffalo-hunter, is a Chippewa + half-breed, and surpasses all of his class in truthfulness and great + intelligence. Not only is he experienced in all the vicissitudes of + travel and frontier life, being the hero of many interesting events, + but he has the broadness of view of an engineer, and I am confident + he will be of the greatest service to us in finding our way. At the + Falls of St. Anthony, where he resides, he is greatly esteemed, and + is known throughout the Territory. I breakfasted with him Monday + morning, and was delighted with the affection and respect with which + he inspired his whole household. There was his old Indian mother; + his four children by his first wife, a half-breed; his second wife + and babe; his sister; his brother and wife; and the wife of an + absent brother. We all sat down to a breakfast of two roasted + sucking-pigs, eggs, beefsteak, etc. He is a natural gentleman, and + in his family I saw exhibited the most refined and courteous + manners. + + He drove a pair of very spirited horses, and on the road, seeing + some plover, he called them to him and shot one. He understands, as + Mr. Sibley in Washington told me, everything from shooting a bird or + paddling a canoe to hunting buffalo, and conducting a large party + through a long extent of difficult country. I have also secured + Menoc, the best hunter of the Territory. He joins the party + to-morrow, and will in ten days be able to supply us with deer and + elk. + + June 12. Messrs. Osgood and Kendall reached camp this morning with + the barometers and india-rubber boats. At St. Louis I was + telegraphed that many of the barometers had been broken, and they + could not be supplied short of New York. They were absolutely + indispensable. I sent Mr. Kendall there immediately, and in thirty + days the boats and instruments were made and brought to my camp, + eighty miles on our way. Mr. Everett also arrived about noon to-day. + I regretted to observe that many of his animals were in very bad + condition. Of our whole number some forty were disabled, and eight + or ten so much so as to give very little hope that they could do any + further service. I refused, however, to sell even these to the many + applicants who expressed a willingness to take them off our hands + below the cost of purchase. Assembling both officers and men to-day, + I caused to be read the camp regulations, which I had prepared for + the government of the party, and made a short address, in which I + informed them that every man would be expected to look to the safety + of his comrades; that all alike, whether soldier or civilian, would + be expected to stand guard, and in case of difficulties to meet them + promptly. I exaggerated the difficulties which lay before us, and + represented that the country through which they would pass was + intersected by bogs, marshes, and deep morasses; that rivers were to + be forded and bridged, mountains and valleys to be crossed; that the + first one hundred and eighty miles of the journey was reported to + be through a continuous marsh, barely practicable, where every man + would have to go through mud and water and apply his shoulders to + the wheel; that in ten days we would reach the Indian country, where + heavy guard duty would have to be performed to protect property and + preserve lives; that still farther on we would probably be compelled + to force our way through the country of the Blackfoot Indians, a + tribe proverbially treacherous and warlike, that then the snows of + the mountains would have to be overcome, and that every man would be + expected to follow wherever he might be led; that no one would be + sacrificed, nor would any one be subjected to any risk which I would + not freely incur; and that whoever was not willing to coöperate with + us had better at once retire. After these remarks the camp + regulations were read by Mr. Kendall, and my views were cordially + approved. I dispatched Lieutenant Grover with a picked party of + fifteen men, with instructions to reconnoitre the country north, and + in the vicinity of White Bear Lake. + + June 13. Continuing the project of sending off the train in detached + parties, and thus gradually breaking up the camp, much of the day + was spent in preparing a party to be placed in charge of Dr. + Suckley. All was effected by four P.M., when his party, consisting + of Belland the guide, Menoc the hunter, a cook, Corporal Coster, and + two dragoons, with two led horses and two led mules, two men in + charge of them, Belland's riding horse, and a Pembina cart in charge + of Henry Boulieau, started from camp. He was instructed to follow + Lieutenant Grover's trail in easy marches, looking carefully to his + animals, and paying particular attention to the collections in + natural history. + + To-day I issued an order creating assimilated rank in the + expedition, by which certain gentlemen of the party were appointed + to the grade of lieutenant, and others to the grade of + non-commissioned officer, for convenience in detailing guard. By + this course the relative position of each man was fixed; and, + whether in the main or detached parties, it was known whose duty it + was to give orders in case of necessity. Military organization is in + some degree indispensable, and the idea of an escort has been + entirely abandoned. All are soldiers in the performance of guard + duty, and the soldiers accompanying us are on fatigue duty, and not + merely to escort us by day and to stand guard at night. Several of + the Pembina carts purchased by Dr. Borup arrived in camp to-day. + They are made entirely of wood, having no iron at all about them, + very roughly constructed, and the wheels usually wrapped with + rawhide or buffalo skin in place of an iron tire, to prevent their + cutting through the marshy ground so extensive between here and + Pembina. They are drawn by horses, oxen, or mules, one person + usually driving from two to six carts, and when loaded they will + carry from six to eight hundred pounds. They look as if made for + only one trip, and the creaking of the wheels on the wooden axle + does not give the idea of their standing much service. Their first + appearance, to those of the party unaccustomed to the sight, with + the oxen harnessed in them, caused much merriment, and as they moved + over the prairie, the singular noise produced by their wheels + assured us that, with such an accompaniment, no need existed for any + musical instrument or players, for these discoursed most sweetly. + +"There is no such thing as an escort to this expedition. Each man is +escorted by every other man," begins this order. It required each man +habitually to go armed; arms to be inspected morning and evening; no +march on Sundays, on which days thorough inspection of persons and +things to be made, and each man to bathe his whole person; each member +of the scientific corps to take care of his own horse, and to take from +and place in the wagons his own personal baggage; no firing on the +march; personal baggage reduced to twenty-five pounds per man. By the +strict enforcement of these stringent but salutary regulations, and the +extreme care with which all were required to treat the animals, Governor +Stevens conducted the entire expedition without the loss of a man, save +one who shot himself by accident, and the animals actually improved on +the march. + + June 14. Spent the day in making the necessary arrangements to push + forward the whole camp, to be organized for the present in detached + parties under separate heads, and all under my general direction. + Lieutenant Du Barry was placed in general charge of the + meteorological observations and of the train, as executive officer. + Everything now presents a favorable aspect, and all will be ready to + move off to-morrow morning. Procured several more Pembina carts. + Engaged to-day Paul Boulieau, a half-breed Chippewa of collegiate + education, who has filled a seat in the territorial legislature with + credit, and also been long in the service of the fur company. He was + placed in charge of the Pembina train, so called, which, consisting + at first of five carts, each drawn by an ox, was this day increased + by a very superior wagon team, drawn by two yoke of very large and + serviceable oxen. It may here be observed that the Pembina train, + managed entirely by the voyageurs, invariably moved by itself, + crossed all the streams without additional assistance, gave us the + least trouble in supervision, and was altogether the most economical + and effective transportation we had. A pioneer wagon containing + rations for the advance party and the india-rubber boats, loaded + lightly in order in case of necessity to be pushed rapidly forward + to the advance parties, and a wagon of Indian goods, were with the + train. The arrangements thus made left me free to be either with the + advance parties or with the train, or to make personal examinations + of important features of the country off the lines of the trail. + +Again sending on detached parties, under Lieutenant Grover, Dr. Suckley, +Lander, and Tinkham, the march was resumed to Pike Lake, a distance of +eighty-one miles. The season was unusually backward, the rains frequent +and heavy, and great labor was required in crossing the swollen +streams,--some by bridging, others by means of the india-rubber floats +for ferrying over the goods while the animals swam across. The wagons, +bogged in the miry ground, had to be frequently unloaded and loaded +again; but many soft and marshy places were made passable by covering +the road deep with cut grass, for which purpose the governor, with his +usual foresight, had provided scythes. The country, with its beautiful +prairies, groves, and lakes, and many streams and bogs to be crossed, +and the incidents of the march are graphically described in Governor +Stevens's report, with many views taken along the route. The following +extracts will show the character of the country and the difficulties +overcome:-- + + June 16. Three miles from Camp Davis we passed through a belt of + woods for two miles, where the flies were excessively annoying, + persecuting our animals so that it was hard to keep them in the + road, as they constantly attempted to rush into the bushes. The + country to Cold Spring has a rich alluvial soil, with scattered + groves of timber. It is mostly level prairie, occasionally broken by + a small stream, and is excellent for agricultural purposes. Passing + through Lieutenant Du Barry's camp, I went on to Dr. Suckley's, on + the west side of the Sauk. Sauk River at our ford is about one + hundred and twenty feet wide, though, owing to the obliquity of the + banks and rapidity of current, the ford is near three hundred feet + wide and the water five feet deep. + + June 17. This morning I started with Dr. Suckley and went on to Lake + Henry, nineteen and a half miles. The country was a rolling prairie, + interspersed with small sloughs filled by the recent rains; the soil + is rich and black, grass good, and occasionally gravelly hillocks. + In the crossing of the Sauk by the main train, the india-rubber + boats were for the first time used. The larger one is about twelve + feet long and four wide, weighing seventy-five pounds, the other + about one fifth smaller. A rope was stretched across the stream, and + the boats ferried across by means of a ring attached to their bows, + and sliding along the rope. They succeeded admirably, and a birch + canoe, managed by one of the voyageurs, was also used in crossing. + Some of the men were in the water for hours, but worked faithfully + and efficiently. Lieutenant Du Barry effected the crossing in one + day, and encamped on the west side of the river, six miles from Cold + Spring. + + June 18. Left camp about seven o'clock, and in about three quarters + of a mile crossed a bad place, requiring some grass. The water was + two feet deep, and the bottom miry. Our road lay through a beautiful + prairie. The shores of Lake Henry are heavily wooded. In two and a + half miles farther we found two very wet places, one hundred yards + apart. In two miles farther we came to a long marsh, where the + ground was very soft, and where our wagons stalled. Three quarters + of a mile beyond we encountered a very deep, muddy slough, to cross + which we had recourse to a long rope, and all our force pulled on + it. A branch of Crow River is then reached in a mile, or a little + more. It is about twelve feet wide and two deep; both sides are + overflown marsh, making the place very difficult to cross. To avoid + breaking bulk, we again used the long rope, and attaching three + pairs of mules to it, all our men pulling on it at the same time, we + got the wagon through. We arrived about noon at Crow Wing River, + nine miles from camp. It was four or five feet deep and twenty feet + wide, and at this time overflowing its usual banks. Broke bulk here, + the men packing our stuff across. Passing Crow River, we find a + continuous grove of oak-trees on our left, and in five miles a + series of small lakes on our right, not wooded but abounding in + game. Arrived at camp on Lightning Lake about half past eight P.M. + Distance traveled, eighteen miles and three quarters. The frequent + sloughs and bad crossings in our march to-day added much to the + labors of the men and animals. After the hard day's march we enjoyed + our supper of game, cooked in hunter's style on sticks before the + fire, although it was midnight before we could have it ready. + + June 19, Sunday. Lightning Lake is a very beautiful sheet of water, + so called from the fact that during Captain Pope's expedition, while + encamped here, one of those storms so fearfully violent in this + country occurred, during which one of his party was instantly killed + by a stroke of lightning. Its northern shore is thickly studded with + timber, and the southern side, upon which we are encamped, affords + an ample supply for all camping purposes. Pickerel, pike, and bass + fill the lake, numbers of which our parties caught; and ducks, + geese, swans, plover, and prairie chicken abound in the vicinity. + The day of rest was enjoyed by the whole party; some fishing, + washing and mending their clothes, others trying various modes of + cooking the game and fish which abounded. Evans succeeded admirably + in roasting a fish in the ashes, first rolling it up in brown paper + dampened, which, when removed, brought off the scales with it, + leaving the meat clean and well done. Early after dinner Mr. Osgood + arrived, informing me that Lieutenant Du Barry, misconstruing my + instructions, had declined to allow him to bring forward the two + wagons which I had ordered for the use of the advanced parties. + + June 20. Started at 3.30 A.M. to go back to the main train, which I + met five miles west of Lake Henry. Taking charge of the train + myself, I directed Boutineau to explore in advance for the most + practicable route. The bad crossing referred to in the narrative of + the 18th was, by great exertion and the united force of the whole + party, effected without accident, and the whole train reached + Lightning Lake by 4.30 P.M. + +Lieutenant Du Barry appears to have felt affronted at the action of the +governor in taking the personal charge of the train, and indeed the +latter was apt to be pretty severe and decided if anything went wrong. +It will be observed how summarily he weeded out and sent back +inefficient men:-- + + June 21. In compliance with his own request, I relieved Lieutenant + Du Barry from duty with the expedition, and ordered him to report in + person to the Adjutant-General in Washington. He was desired to call + upon the Secretary of War and acquaint him with the whole history of + the expedition up to this point; and, to enable him to reach the + settlements with some degree of comfort and expedition, I dispatched + Mr. Kendall and two of the voyageurs to accompany him as far as Long + Prairie on his return, whence there would be no difficulty in his + procuring transportation to Sauk Rapids. + + Captain Remenyi and his assistant, Mr. Jekelfaluzy, were discharged + to-day, as they did not perform their duties to my satisfaction. + + All these matters detained us until 4.30 P.M., when I pushed forward + with Dr. Suckley's and the scientific parties. The clouds were + gathering and indicated a severe gust. We reached a beautiful lake + about three miles distant, called by us Lake Stanley, in honor of + the artist of the expedition, and had just time to get into camp to + save ourselves from a very severe storm, which continued with great + violence till near seven P.M. + + June 22. My party, leaving Dr. Suckley, got off about six A.M. We + arrived at White Bear Lake, about nine and a half miles from the + morning's camp, at 10.15 A.M. Leaving Lightning Lake the country + seems to change its character, and is no longer a flat, + undiversified surface, with occasionally a gentle undulation + scarcely attracting attention. It has gradually changed to a heavy, + rolling prairie, which, before approaching White Bear Lake, becomes + broken up into hills, valleys, and basins varying from thirty to + fifty feet in depth. Boulders and stones, from the size of pebbles + to paving-stones, are very numerous. Our route to-day appears to be + gradually ascending at a probable rate of eight or ten feet per + mile. White Bear Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, bordered with + timber, about fourteen miles long and two wide, with high, swelling + banks, running back a mile or so, and rising to the height of about + one hundred and fifty feet. As the animals looked so fresh, and the + day was cool and good for traveling, we halted only for a rest. + About five miles from the lake we came to a stream, apparently + running into it. Other bad places occurred; soft bogs, marshes, and + brooks impeded our progress so much that we did not get into camp + until three P.M., making nine and one third miles from our + halting-place, and eighteen and three fourths for our day's march. + Our camp was on a very rapid stream, with steep, high banks. We + called it Lambert River, in honor of our topographer, who received a + sad overturn as he crossed it with Lieutenant Grover's command. + + The main train in charge of Mr. Osgood moved from camp on Lightning + Lake at seven o'clock, after settling a difficulty of a very serious + aspect growing out of a strike of all the teamsters, in consequence + of a discharge by him of six of their number, according to my + directions, because their services were not required. They + threatened to shoot the first driver who moved out of camp. Mr. + Osgood declared that he would drive out each wagon himself. Finally, + after some discussion, the discharged men moved off cheerfully, and + the main train pushed forward to White Bear Lake. + + June 23. Our first labor this morning was to cross the stream at a + point half a mile from our camp, from which we moved about six. This + crossing delayed our little party some two hours. Grass had to be + cut and placed on both sides of the stream. The banks were steep and + soft, and it required the presence of a man or two at each wheel to + keep the wagons in motion and prevent their being stuck in the mire. + The country to-day appears admirably adapted to grazing purposes, + and the bottoms, of frequent occurrence, are of a very rich + character. Marshes and little streams, bordered by soft places, + occur frequently. In one of these places, fully one hundred feet in + length, one of our wagons got mired, making it necessary to remove + part of its load to get it through. + + About ten A.M. I left the train in charge of Mr. G.W. Stevens, and, + pushing on, reached Lieutenant Grover's camp about twelve. The train + arrived at half past one, crossed a marsh and a small stream, and + encamped opposite the camps of Messrs. Grover, Lander, and Tinkham. + Lieutenant Grover's camp is beautifully situated on the shores of + Pike Lake. The main train and Dr. Suckley's party arrived about half + past eight, and the whole expedition was again brought together. + This I consider the real starting-point of the expedition, and named + our camp here Camp Marcy, in honor of the Secretary of State. We + remained here a day in order to give the animals a chance to rest. + They appear to be in very good condition, and the grazing is fine. + Received of the various scientific chiefs reports of their labors to + this point. + + + + + CHAPTER XVII + + PIKE LAKE TO FORT UNION + + +From Pike Lake the expedition pursued a general course westerly by ten +degrees northerly in order to clear the great northeastern bend of the +Missouri, and reached Fort Union in thirty-eight days, traversing a +distance of five hundred and fifty miles. A compass and odometer line +was run with the main party. Pursuing his system of exploring a wide +scope of country by means of detached parties, Governor Stevens +dispatched Lieutenant Grover with a picked party to survey a separate +route south of that of the main body as far as Fort Union, and kept +Lander, Tinkham, Dr. Suckley, Lambert, Doty, and Adams, with small +parties of the voyageurs, examining the country within forty miles of +the route by frequent side trips. The main train crossed the Red River +near the town of Breckenridge, the James River some distance north of +Jamestown, and skirted the Mouse River near Minot, on the Great Northern +Railroad, from which point to Fort Union, and for hundreds of miles +beyond, that railroad follows Governor Stevens's route. It is +characteristic of the governor that in sending officers on the detached +trips he always furnished them the best men and animals of the party, +frequently allowing them to select them themselves. On July 12 he +overstrained himself in his exertions to prevent a herd of buffalo from +stampeding the train, and the old rupture, which had given him so much +trouble in Mexico, broke out afresh, and obliged him to ride in an +ambulance for many hundreds of miles. But his spirit and energy were +no-wise quelled by this grievous physical disability. The graphic +descriptions of the country, the incidents of the march, the encounter +with countless herds of buffalo, and the meetings with the Red River +hunters and Assiniboine Indians are given in the final report with a +fullness of detail which cannot be attempted here, but the following +extracts will give a fair idea of this stage of the exploration:-- + + June 24. I directed Lieutenant Grover to select a party of twenty + picked men, twenty-six mules, three horses, and twenty-five days' + provisions, including an ox, with which to go forward on the Dead + Colt Hillock line. In thus giving to Lieutenant Grover his own + selection of animals and men, my purpose was to make him in the + highest degree effective in the means at his disposal, and to + demonstrate by the success of his undertaking the entire feasibility + of operating in detached parties. Messrs. Lander and Tinkham moved + forward this afternoon to Chippewa River. + + On counting rations, it was found that for the main party there was + a supply for twenty days, while it might take forty-five to reach + Fort Union. But with the eight oxen in the carts, and the known + abundance of game, I feared no scarcity. The men showed some + anxiety, and talked of a strike, but, seeing the confidence of the + officers, abandoned any open demonstration. I had ordered a reducing + of rations whenever the quantity of game would justify it, and + henceforward I gave the most particular attention to it, so that, + although we did not reach the Yellowstone for thirty-eight days, + there was at no time a scarcity of provisions. + + June 25. To-day the expedition may be considered fairly under way. + Lieutenant Grover started at 7.30 A.M. The main party, under my own + direction, moved forward at about the same time. In ten miles + reached the Chippewa River. The india-rubber boats did good service, + carrying over each time more than half a wagon-load. The whole train + was all well encamped two miles further on at a fine lake by sunset. + + June 26. The main party moved to-day to the camp of Mr. Tinkham of + last night, and the whole command was over the river and in camp by + six o'clock. As we were now approaching the Indian country, I + systematized all the arrangements of camp and guards, and the + details of duty on the march. The dragoons were distributed as + follows: two for the pack-train; two with a led horse each for + reconnoitring duty; two to strike and pitch tents; two to catch + fish; two with the howitzer; Sergeant Lindner and seven men with the + main column. The sergeant was, moreover, charged with the duty of + laying out the encampment under my direction. For the care of the + camp, an officer of the guard, who also served as officer of the + day, two non-commissioned officers, and six privates were detailed. + + Cook-fires to be made at two A.M.; the cooks and teamsters called at + three, and the animals to be put in good grass; reveille to be + sounded at four, and all the officers to be called by name; the + whole camp to breakfast about four, and the teamsters immediately to + commence harnessing up; tents struck by half past four, and camp in + motion by five; the sentinels instructed to fire upon any prowling + Indians. + + June 27. Camp roused at four A.M. While at breakfast, Lieutenant + Moffett gave me notice that we had but four minutes left to eat in, + and, as we failed to get through, he had the tents struck over our + heads. The train moved at five o'clock. About eight miles from camp + passed Elbow Lake, fourteen miles reached Rabbit River, followed the + stream to where it empties into Bell's Lake, and, going along the + beach through water eight inches deep with a pebbly bottom, we found + a good crossing, though a ridge has to be ascended before getting + upon the plain where our camp is placed. The grass is most + excellent, and the animals, accustomed to each other, are visibly + improving. + + Tuesday, June 28. At half past ten A.M. the advance had crossed + Rabbit River, fifteen miles from camp, and halted until the arrival + of the main train. Leaving the train to rest, the advance started at + two. In three miles met Mr. Lander, whose camp was with Mr. + Tinkham's, and went into camp at five on the Bois de Sioux, and were + joined by the whole party at nine o'clock, after a march of + twenty-seven miles over a country that had been invariably reported + the very worst of the whole route. Our animals, though somewhat + tired, immediately went to feeding. There were some soft places + between the Rabbit River and the Bois de Sioux, in which the animals + were mired and wagons stalled; but we were agreeably disappointed in + having comparatively a very comfortable day's journey. + + Numerous large catfish were caught this afternoon, some weighing + from twelve to twenty pounds. At half past eleven P.M. we sat down + to a supper of ducks, catfish, and coffee, and all the men were in + fine spirits. The Bois de Sioux had been a great point to + reach,--the end of bad roads and the commencement of the buffalo + country. Here we may take a general review of the country since + leaving St. Paul. + + Between Camp Pierce and Sauk Rapids, seventy-nine miles, the road + passes through beautiful prairies and oak openings, with occasional + meadows, wet at this early season, and, at some distance to the + right, groves of tamarack, varying the landscape with their light + and feathery foliage. + + From the crossing at Sauk Rapids to Lightning Lake most of the + country is rolling prairie, with the wooded banks of Sauk River on + the south, and numerous small ponds and lakes with trees on their + banks, abundant and excellent pasture, and swarms of water-fowl, + supplying plenty of fresh provisions. + + A similar delightful country continues to the Bois de Sioux River, + with some decrease in the amount of timber, until the banks of that + river are reached. + + After leaving Lightning Lake the country seems to change its + character; no longer a flat, undiversified surface, or with gentle + undulations scarcely attracting notice, it has gradually changed to + a heavy, rolling prairie, and at White Bear Lake becomes broken up + into hills, valleys, and basins. Boulders and smaller stones are + numerous. + + This whole dividing ridge, then, separating the waters of the + Mississippi from those of the Red River, which flow into Hudson Bay, + is not the lofty range of mountains which might be supposed to + separate the sources of two such great bodies of water flowing in + opposite directions and to outlets so widely distant, but is a + gently undulating and exceedingly rich prairie country, abundantly + wooded and watered, having a width of one hundred miles, and an + elevation not exceeding six hundred feet above the river and about + sixteen hundred above the sea. There is a very slight rise in the + general level in going westward, the Bois de Sioux being at the + crossing only thirty-one feet higher than the Mississippi at Sauk + Rapids. Undulating and level prairies, skirted by woods of various + growth, and clothed everywhere with rich verdure; numerous and rapid + streams, with innumerable small but limpid lakes, frequented by + multitudes of wild fowl, most conspicuous among which appears the + stately swan,--these, in ever-recurring succession, make up the + panorama of this extensive district, which may be said to be + everywhere fertile, beautiful, and inviting. + + The most remarkable features of this region are the intervals of + level prairie, especially that near the bend of the branches of Red + River, where the horizon is as unbroken as that of a calm sea. Nor + are other points of resemblance wanting: the long grass, which in + such places is unusually rank, bending gracefully to the passing + breeze as it sweeps along the plain, gives the idea of waves (as + indeed they are); and the solitary horseman on the horizon is so + indistinctly seen as to complete the picture by the suggestion of a + sail, raising the first feelings of novelty to a character of wonder + and delight. The flowing outlines of the rolling prairies are broken + only by the small lakes and patches of timber, which relieve them of + monotony and enhance their beauty; and though marshes and sloughs + occur, they are too small and infrequent to affect the generally + attractive character of the country. The elevation of the rolling + prairie is generally so uniform that even the summits between + streams flowing in opposite directions exhibit no peculiar features + to distinguish them from the ordinary valley slopes. + + Wednesday, June 29. The advance parties crossed the river before + seven o'clock, but the train was not started till eleven, so as to + give the animals rest. The ford, very good for a small train, became + very muddy towards the last, and though we unloaded all the wagons + and carried the loads over in boats, the wagons and animals were + badly stalled at the edges and on the soft and steep banks of the + river. The country from the Bois de Sioux to the Wild Rice River is + a broad, level prairie, covered with luxuriant grass eighteen inches + high; the distance eleven miles, with occasional sloughs. The heat + to-day was excessive, and the mosquitoes very annoying to men and + animals. At four o'clock, profiting by our experience in crossing + the Bois de Sioux, I sent Mr. Lander with a select force of axemen + to cut timber to bridge the Wild Rice. The train came up slowly, the + last wagons not reaching camp till midnight. + + Thursday, June 30. Part of the men were employed in carefully + currying and washing the animals, and in catching fish; the + remainder were detailed to build the bridge, which was completed by + one P.M. It was made of heavy logs, filled in with cut willow-brush + and mown grass. Moved at two o'clock; in three miles came to a small + creek, which was quite marshy, and caused delay to cross. Moving a + mile and a half farther we again struck the same stream, and + encamped at half past four P.M. During our march we encountered a + very severe storm, accompanied with thunder and lightning. Boutineau + brought in an elk, which furnished about two pounds of excellent + fresh meat to each man, and was much enjoyed. Kendall and the two + Boulieaus overtook us to-day, bringing supplies and five Indian + ponies. + + July 1. I determined to push forward with the engineer party to the + Sheyenne, and, if I found it necessary, have it bridged. Smooth + prairie extended all the way, road good, and the distance twenty-six + and a half miles. A very severe thunderstorm occurred this morning, + lasting an hour, and wetting us thoroughly. At eleven A.M. we met + the train of the Red River traders, and visited their camp, six + miles distant. We were very hospitably received, purchased some + pemmican, common moccasins, and articles of dress worked with + porcupine quills. Bought also some carts and oxen, being very + deficient in transportation. + + The main train only proceeded thirteen miles, and I returned to them + about three P.M., accompanied by Kittson, Father Delacour, Roulet, + and Cavilaer. Kittson and Roulet were members of the territorial + legislature from Pembina; Cavilaer, the collector of customs; and + Delacour is a very clever, shrewd priest. They are on their annual + trip to St. Paul with robes, skins, pemmican, and dried meat of the + buffalo, collected by trading with the half-breeds of the Red River + settlements. We found that they had bridged the Sheyenne, saving us + considerable trouble and delay. Their company proved very agreeable, + and we were glad that a heavy thunderstorm coming on obliged them to + be our guests for the night. + + July 2. Struck camp at seven o'clock and parted with our new + friends, sending back with them Strobel and two teamsters, who + proved inefficient. The whole train crossed the Sheyenne bridge + safely by noon, and camped on the other side. We had apprehended + that possibly the heavy rain of last night would swell the river and + carry away the bridge, but hurrying up the wagons, we made the + crossing just before the water had risen sufficiently to flow over + the bridge. I called this camp McClelland, intending to halt here + over Sunday and make up dispatches for Washington. I sent Lander and + Tinkham to reconnoitre both up and down the river. + + July 3, Sunday. Lander came back from his reconnoissance, having + been as far south as Dead Colt Hillock. He met with a singular + adventure, which afforded us a great deal of amusement. Riding along + with his four voyageurs, whom he used to call his "men of iron," at + some distance ahead they saw a skunk moving leisurely through the + grass, with tail erect and defying their approach. Lander leveled + his glass at it, and, satisfying himself that it was an Indian + watching their movements and trying to hide himself, gave the order + for his gallant band to "charge." They did charge, and at the same + time firing their revolvers, the poor skunk fell, riddled with balls + and weltering in his blood; when coming up, they discovered the + extent of their bold exploit. Joking in camp is one of the pastimes + to relieve the annoyances of the march, and every little thing is + seized upon to feed the disposition. + + Fourth of July. The train started at six A.M. I remained behind to + get off a mail. Started about ten and followed the Red River trail + some twelve miles, when we left it altogether. Crossed Maple River, + and camped on its banks. About dusk we raised the American flag, + made of red and white shirts, contributed by the party and sewed + together by Boulieau. As it went up, the assembled command gave it + three hearty cheers, and then indulged in some refreshments in honor + of the day, ending the evening with songs and story-telling. + + July 5. Traveled twenty miles over a high, firm, and almost level + prairie, camping on a small branch of Maple River without any wood + near it. The pack-train requiring more attention and care of the + animals than has been given by the man in charge, who does not take + sufficient pains with the disabled animals, I to-day directed Mr. + Kendall to oversee them and have them properly attended to. + + July 6. Went twenty miles farther, making a noon halt of two hours, + when Mr. Tinkham returned from a long and rapid reconnoissance + ahead. Prairie more rolling, but road good. A high butte to the left + of our course enabled me to get a fine view of the surrounding + country. Two Indians were seen by Boutineau, who was out after + buffalo, which he did not find; but abundance of ducks continue to + supply the camp with fresh meat. + + July 7. About 8.30 we struck the Sheyenne six miles from camp, and + rested an hour. Keeping the Sheyenne on our left, we moved forward + ten miles and camped about a mile and a half from the river on the + banks of a fine lake. To-day Le Frambois and Menoc killed an old + buffalo bull, and also brought in some dozen geese. Several of the + messes supplied themselves with frogs, which have been most abundant + on our march for the past two days. The whole command took supper + off of buffalo, and the meat, though old and tough, tasted very + good, and saved us an ox which had been destined for the slaughter. + Several antelopes and wolves were seen to-day. + + July 8. Started this morning at 6.30, and arrived at the crossing of + the Sheyenne River after a march of fifteen miles. Buttes in + considerable number are seen ahead, among which the Horse Butte and + the Butte Micheau are plainly visible. Mr. Tinkham, Paul, and Henry + were out again to-day, making a reconnoissance on the Sheyenne. We + went into camp about one o'clock on the east and south side of the + Sheyenne, and a party was at once detailed to cut wood and prepare + charcoal. The magnetic tent was put up, and the astronomical and + meteorological parties went immediately to work. I called our camp + Camp Guthrie, in honor of the Secretary of the Treasury, and + determined to remain here all day to-morrow. + + Boutineau and Henry Boulieau went out this afternoon, and returned + with the choice pieces of a fine, fat, young buffalo bull, and we + made a delightful meal, around the fire, of the ribs, marrow-bones, + etc., cooked hunter's fashion. Towards evening, on the coteau on the + other side of the river, a herd of some twenty elks made their + appearance. Numerous wolves were also seen, which, during the night, + kept up a constant howling. We planted flags on high hills in the + vicinity as signals to Lander, who may follow the Sheyenne River to + find our crossing-place. + + July 9. An accurate return was made of the provisions on hand, so as + to regulate its weekly distribution. Our flour is fast diminishing, + and the issue was reduced to half a pound per day to each man. This + state of affairs caused considerable grumbling in camp. We are fast + approaching the buffalo country, and then shall be expected to do + with much less. About 2.30 P.M. the main train under Mr. Osgood + crossed the river, and moved forward to a good camping-place. The + astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological parties, with the detail + of three men attending to the coal-pit, and Mr. Evans and myself, + remained at Camp Guthrie, intending to join them before they moved + in the morning. + + July 10. After partaking of a cup of coffee at three o'clock, our + little train, consisting of an ambulance and spring wagon with a + cart loaded with charcoal, had crossed the Sheyenne by sunrise. + About seven o'clock we reached the main train, encamped some seven + miles off. The train was preparing to move, and soon after we came + up it started; at eight o'clock we followed and passed them. About + five miles from camp we ascended to the top of a high hill, and for + a great distance ahead every square mile seemed to have a herd of + buffalo on it. Their number was variously estimated by the members + of the party, some as high as half a million. I do not think it is + any exaggeration to set it down at 200,000. I had heard of the + myriads of these animals inhabiting these plains, but I could not + realize the truth of these accounts till to-day, when they surpassed + anything I could have imagined from the accounts which I had + received. + + The timber bordering on Lake Jessie was distinctly visible ahead, + and between us and it were countless herds of buffalo, through + which we were compelled to pass. The train moved on till eleven + o'clock, when we all halted, drew up in line, and picketed the loose + animals. Six of the hunters, Boutineau, Menoc, Le Frambois, the two + Boulieaus, and Rummell, were mounted upon the best horses in the + command, some of which were specially reserved, and rode off in fine + style, keeping together till ready to dash in among the herd. The + immense sea of flesh remained quiet until their approach, and then, + separating, they rode in among them, selected the fat cows, and, + riding around until the proper time to do execution, the quick + succession of shots announced the fact that our supplies of meat + were fast being added to. In less than an hour a wagon was called + into requisition to collect the choice pieces of nine buffalo cows. + While we were resting, several small bands came within firing + distance of our train. One or two dragoons on foot gave one a chase, + but the buffalo, of course, distanced them. The most amusing scene + was the dog Zack, of the dragoon detachment, dashing into a whole + herd, and following them a considerable distance. Paul Boulieau and + Rummell were both thrown by their horses stumbling in one of the + numerous holes with which the prairie abounds. They were + considerably, though not seriously, hurt. + + We arrived at Lake Jessie at three P.M., the bluff shore on which we + encamped being sixty-four feet above the level of the lake. The + water of Lake Jessie is considerably saline in its character; but + about three quarters of a mile from camp, an excellent spring of + good, fresh water was found by Henry Boulieau and myself while out + on a reconnoitring trip. + + Between one and two o'clock at night a herd of buffalo approached + our camp, and it required all the exertions of the guard, assisted + by many of the men, to prevent an entire stampede of all our + animals. As it was, some got loose, though none were lost. The + buffalo were followed a considerable distance, and some ten or a + dozen shots were fired before the animals without were entirely + driven off. + + July 11. Having proceeded about four miles, a small band of buffalo + started off ahead of us. Le Frambois's horse and four loose mules + near the head of the column started in pursuit, the horse taking the + lead. Boutineau, Le Frambois, Menoc, Guy, Lindner, and Paul + Boulieau, all well mounted, gave chase in hopes of recovering them. + By this time they had mixed up in the herd, and, though they were + followed some twelve or fifteen miles, all efforts to secure them + were unavailing. About a mile farther we encountered a very severe + slough, the approach to which was marked by a very great curiosity + in the form of a buffalo trail; at least 100,000 must have crossed + here by the footprints and marks visible, and I determined on + crossing the slough at the same point which the instinct of these + animals had selected. + + July 12. In company with Tinkham and some of the guides, I started + from camp this morning at five o'clock, designing to be in advance + of the train some miles, to reconnoitre and pick out a good road, + our route lying over high hills. + + At about eight o'clock I sent off Mr. Tinkham, accompanied by the + two Boulieaus, well mounted, with instructions to go southward, + determining the position of the headwaters of Bald Hillock Creek, + and thus connecting his work with Mr. Lander's reconnoissance; + thence westward in a line nearly parallel with our route of to-day, + making a reconnoissance of the tributaries of the Jacques River + (James), leaving it to his discretion whether to join our camp + to-night or the next day. By this we would secure the reconnoissance + of a belt of country forty miles wide, lying between the Sheyenne + and Jacques (James) rivers. + + About eleven miles from camp we crossed a deep slough. About a mile + farther on we crossed a fine little stream which I took to be Beaver + Lodge Creek. Shortly afterwards Boutineau killed a fine buffalo cow, + not twenty feet from the compass line. The dispatch and dexterity + with which these men cut up buffalo is truly astonishing. Before the + cart came up, the animal was entirely butchered, and had only to be + thrown into the cart. We moved forward to-day some sixteen miles, + and camped on the side of a small lake. We had scarcely got into + camp before we were visited by a very severe storm, accompanied by + thunder and lightning. Our fires were put out by the rain, and + during a temporary cessation were built up again; but it soon came + on with increased violence, and our fires were again washed out. + About six o'clock two of Mr. Lander's party who left us on the 4th + arrived in camp, announcing that Mr. Lander and the rest of his men + were only some three or four miles behind, with considerable + difficulty bringing in the horses, which were giving out.[3] I + dispatched two men with led horses to meet them, and about sundown + they came up. We found great difficulty in keeping up our fires so + as to get our supper cooked. The rain fell in torrents, our supply + of wood was limited, and the buffalo chips were so wet as to be + entirely useless. + + Towards the close of the day's march I became disabled from my + exertions in endeavoring to keep off a herd of buffalo from the + train, causing an old wound to break out, which compelled me to ride + many hundred miles in the ambulance. + + July 13. A very heavy fog this morning delayed our getting off as + early as expected, and the hope of Tinkham and his small party + joining us made me less hurried about starting. Sixteen miles from + camp we struck James River, and crossed over a good ford, from which + point I sent Mr. Lander down the river to examine it. Noticing that + the river ran very nearly in the course of our compass, we followed + it, and again crossing it some five miles above, we encamped. I had + a large amount of rushes collected, with a view of building as large + a camp-fire as practicable, in order to give notice to Tinkham of + our position, he not having returned. + + July 14. The missing party not having arrived, three rounds of the + howitzer were fired at sunrise, and we started later than usual. It + was evident that the whole camp was in a great state of anxiety for + the safety of our comrades. Many believed that they had fallen in + with Indians, and were deprived of their horses and their lives. + Taking everything into consideration, I deemed it best to leave a + party at this point so equipped as to combine great energy and force + with promptness of movement, so as to be able to overtake the main + train without difficulty. Accordingly Mr. Lander was left in charge + of the engineer wagon and the wagon belonging to the mountain + howitzer, which was made light enough to be moved with ease forty + miles in a single day. The howitzer was also left with him for the + purpose of making signals. Mr. Doty, with three voyageurs and three + men to manage the howitzer, together with the teamsters of the + ammunition wagon, remained with Mr. Lander, having abundance of + arms, provisions, animals, etc., to supply any emergency. This party + was instructed to keep up fires, to fire three rounds with the + howitzer at noon and at sunset should the party not arrive, and to + communicate with us if any casualty occurred. + + A party of four brave and thorough woodsmen, whose knowledge of the + prairie life was derived from experience in many expeditions, and + who well understood the Indian character, were sent out on the route + traveled yesterday, and were directed, after traveling some eight or + ten miles, to leave the road, and, going in different directions, to + plant signals and scour the country. I felt certain that Mr. Tinkham + would be found by these men, if found at all. + + The remainder of the train left about seven o'clock, pursuing the + same course as yesterday. The first ten miles was over a level + plateau. We encamped about 4.30 o'clock at the bank of a fine lake, + having made to-day a distance of little over twenty miles. The + mosquitoes were exceedingly annoying, flying against the sides of + the tents with a noise like the pattering of rain, while the inside + was perfectly black with them. Their constant humming drove the men + out into the open air, and rendered it almost impossible to sleep. + + July 15. At daybreak Broadwell went back to Lander's camp, and I + dispatched Osgood and Kendall to a high hill to reconnoitre and look + for a new camp. The guides and hunters were also sent on to the + Sheyenne to ascertain the distance, and if not too far we would go + to it. Being very unwell, I laid by all the morning, and the delay + of the train was employed in shoeing the animals, equalizing loads, + and arranging them in such a manner as to give about nine hundred + pounds to each wagon, and so distributed in bulk that a portion of + each wagon could be appropriated to the conveyance of wood and the + meat killed each day. + + The men are much interested in the labors of Dr. Suckley, the + naturalist. It is amusing to see each one making his contribution of + snakes, reptiles, birds, bugs, etc. + + Near noon Osgood and his party returned, having been to the + Sheyenne, where they found no wood, poor grass, and swarms of + mosquitoes. Soon after the guides returned, announcing that they had + seen a party of Sioux of a thousand lodges, not more than nine miles + in advance of us. Boutineau's manner was full of fear, and his + public announcement spread alarm through the whole camp. I at once + gave orders to make ready, with the intention of visiting their + camp; and, calling Boutineau to my tent, asked him whether they were + not the Red River hunting party. He assured me indignantly that "he + knew half-breeds from Indians, and that they were certainly Sioux." + + I suggested that they might be friendly Sioux, who, being engaged in + the hunt and hearing of our approach, were coming forward to meet + us, to receive the usual presents and gratify their curiosity. He + still insisted that they were hostile Sioux, and saw in their + presence the explanation of the cause of the absence of the missing + party. We were, in his opinion, to be surrounded and cut off. + + After dinner, as the alarm was spreading throughout the command, the + arms were inspected and ammunition distributed, and orders given to + have the train in readiness to move at once. I sent Boutineau, Le + Frambois, and Menoc to the top of a high ridge as a lookout, while a + flag was prepared to be sent forward if necessary. Word soon came + that the country was alive with Indians, who were fast surrounding + us; and I sent scouts to hills on the right and left, having the + lake to protect our rear. Mounting my horse, I rode to the hill in + front, and saw two horsemen rapidly approaching. Our flag-bearers + rode forward to meet them, and soon discovered that they were two of + the Red River hunters, and that their camp was three miles beyond + the Sheyenne. Having discerned our party, they came to invite us to + visit them, and expressed their kindly feelings for us. The train, + which before this was in motion, arranged in a double line, with the + pack and loose animals between, proceeded two miles, where there was + better water, and encamped. + + The agreeable disappointment established a fine feeling throughout + camp; and, half an hour after, Boulieau and Lindner arrived in camp + with news of Tinkham's safety, which was received with three cheers. + The men to-day showed a good spirit, and although there was + naturally some anxiety, they obeyed every order with alacrity. Thus + ended the apprehensions of the command concerning Indians. + + + RED RIVER HUNTERS. + + July 16. Awaited the coming up of the back parties, and during the + morning Tinkham arrived and was received with nine cheers, being + followed soon after by the rest of the rear guard. About two P.M. + the whole Red River train came in sight, and as they approached, + fired a succession of volleys of firearms as a salute, which we + returned with three rounds from the howitzer. The train consisted of + 824 carts, about 1200 animals, and 1300 persons, men, women, and + children, the whole presenting a very fine appearance. + + They encamped near by, and the close yard which they formed + presented quite a contrast to the open camp adopted by us. They made + a circular or square yard of the carts, placed side by side, with + the hubs adjoining, presenting a barrier impassable either to man or + beast. The tents or lodges were arranged within at a distance of + about twenty feet from the carts, and were of a conical shape, built + of poles covered with skins, with an opening at the top for the + passage of smoke and for ventilation. They were one hundred and four + in number, being occupied generally by two families, averaging about + ten persons to the lodge. Skins were spread over the tops of the + carts, and underneath many of the train found comfortable + lodging-places. The animals were allowed to run loose during the day + to feed, but were driven into the corral at dark. Thirty-six of the + men were posted as sentinels, remaining on guard all night. We had + but twelve guards, three reliefs, not more than four men being on + guard at one time. + + As our camps were only about two hundred yards apart, there was much + visiting between them. I was struck with the good conduct and + hospitable kindness of these people. A small band of prairie + Chippewa Indians, who accompanied this party, visited our camp + during the evening, and entertained us with one of their national + dances. + + I was much pleased with Governor Wilkie, who is the head of the + expedition. He is a man about sixty years of age, of fine + appearance and pleasant manners. This party are residents of Pembina + and its vicinity. When at home they are engaged in agriculture, + raising wheat, corn, potatoes, and barley. The land yields about + twenty-five bushels of wheat to the acre, their farms averaging + about fifteen acres each. They are industrious and frugal in their + habits, and are mostly of the Romish persuasion, leading a virtuous + and pious life. They are generally accompanied by their priests, and + attend strictly to their devotions, having exercises every Sabbath, + on which day they neither march nor hunt. + + Their municipal government is of a parochial character, being + divided into five parishes, each one presided over by an officer + called the captain of the parish. On departing for the hunt, they + select a man from the whole number, who is styled governor of the + hunt, who takes charge of the party, regulates its movements, acts + as referee in all cases where any differences arise between the + members in regard to game or other matters, and takes command in + case of difficulty with the Indians. + + In the early part of the year, till the middle of June, these people + work at agriculture, when they set out on their first hunt, leaving + some thirty at the settlements in charge of their farms, houses, + stock, etc. They start out to the southward in search after buffalo, + taking with them their families, carts, and animals. These carts, + when loaded, contain about eight hundred pounds, and are used in + common. There were three hundred and thirty-six men in the present + train, of whom three hundred were hunters. Each hunt, of which there + are two every year, continues about two months, the first starting + in June, the second about the middle of October. Their carts were + already half full, and they expected to return to their homes in the + latter part of August. On their first trip the buffalo are hunted + for the purpose of procuring pemmican, dried meat, tongues, etc.; + the skins, being useless for robes, are dressed for lodge-skins, + moccasins, etc. In October the meat is still better and fatter, and + they procure a like quantity of dried meat, reserving sufficient for + a year's provisions, which is about one half of the whole amount + procured; they dispose of the rest at the trading-posts of the + Hudson Bay Company. The meat which they carry home finds its way, + through the Red River traders of the Fur Company, to Fort Snelling, + where it is exchanged for goods, sugar, coffee, etc., at the rate of + fifteen cents a pound. + + The trade of this country is all in dry-goods, sugar, tea, + ammunition, etc. Notes are also issued by the Hudson Bay Company, + which are currency among them. Several of these, of the denomination + of five shillings, payable at York Factory and bearing the signature + of Sir George Simpson, were offered in change to various members of + the expedition on purchasing articles. The skins collected in the + summer hunt are usually retained by the hunters for their own use, + while the robes collected in the fall hunt are a staple of trade + with the Fur Company, and also with the Hudson Bay Company, which + latter company do a large business in this portion of the country, + supplying the settlers with most of their clothes, groceries, etc. + + The Red River settlements are made up of a population of + half-breeds, traders of the Hudson Bay and Fur Companies, discharged + employees of these companies, and Indians, representatives of every + nation of Europe,--Scotch, Irish, English, Canadians,--and speaking + a jargon made up of these dialects, intermingled with Chippewa and + Sioux, patois French being the prevailing tongue. These settlements, + started some twenty-five years since, now number, in the vicinity of + Pembina Mountain, some four thousand people. The men are generally + much finer looking than the women. On the latter depend all the + drudgery of camp duties, pitching the tents, attending to animals, + cooking, etc. The men dress usually in woolens of various colors. + The coat generally worn, called the Hudson Bay coat, has a capote + attached to it. The belts are finely knit, of differently colored + wool or worsted yarn, and are worn after the manner of sashes. Their + powder-horn and shot-bag, attached to bands finely embroidered with + beads or worked with porcupine quills, are worn across each + shoulder, making an X before and behind. Many also have a + tobacco-pouch strung to their sashes, in which is tobacco mixed with + kinnickinnick (dried bark of the osier willow scraped fine), a + fire-steel, punk, and several flints. Add to these paraphernalia a + gun, and a good idea will be formed of the costume of the Red River + hunter. The women are industrious, dress in gaudy calicoes, are + fond of beads and finery, and are remarkably apt at making + bead-work, moccasins, and sewing. + + We purchased from the train a supply of pemmican, dried meat, sugar, + and other things, some of the men buying moccasins, whips, and other + necessaries. + + I engaged the services of Alexis Le Bombard, who was in company with + this encampment, as guide to the Yellowstone. He came from the + Yellowstone this season, and the impression gathered from my + interview with him, as well as the representations of others, + satisfied me that he will be extremely valuable as a guide. + + July 18. Started a few minutes before seven, still following the + trail of the Red River train. About eight o'clock we crossed a + branch of the Sheyenne, flowing through a deep valley with an + extended plateau, bounded on both sides by the high coteau. This + stream appears to take its rise in a number of small lakes, and the + branch crossed this morning is slightly brackish. Many of the lakes + are very salt. These appear to have no outlet, and their saline + qualities are accounted for by the fact that they are never washed + out, and consequently retain the salt deposits and incrustations. We + often notice in this region lakes lying very close to each other, in + some cases not more than twenty yards apart; one will be so saline + as to be offensive, while the water of the other will be excellent + to the taste. We passed to-day a narrow lake, some three miles in + length, somewhat resembling a canal. It lay at the foot of a high + hill, called the Butte de Morale. Here occurred an engagement + between some half-breeds and Sioux, in which one of the former, by + the name of Morale, was killed; hence its name. The altitude of this + butte, as determined by barometric measurement, is 281.8 feet above + the level of the Sheyenne River. + + Our way was strewn with the carcasses of many buffaloes killed by + the Red River hunting party. At times the air was very much tainted. + One of our men reported having ridden through a section of land, a + quarter of a mile square, on which were strewn the remains of some + three hundred buffaloes. In killing these animals, only the choice + bits and hides are taken, and the remainder is left as a prey to + wolves, or to rot on the ground. + + We had wood to-day, for the first time since leaving Lake Jessie, + our fuel in the mean time consisting of greasewood and buffalo + chips. The sight of a camp-fire of wood is quite a treat to us. Our + camp is beautifully located on a range of hills, nearly surrounded + with salt lakes, called the White Wood Lakes. An excellent spring + near by furnishes us an abundant supply of cold, fresh water. The + odometer line measured to-day was twenty and a half miles. That + pursued by the train was probably two miles longer. + + July 19. Our course lay over a level country. After proceeding ten + miles we crossed a branch of the Sheyenne River, at this time very + shallow, but the high banks on each side, together with the grass + and deposits, gave evidence of its size during the freshets in the + spring. After traveling sixteen and one half miles, we encamped near + a small lake in sight of the Maison du Chien, which by bearings and + calculation Mr. Tinkham estimated to be about twenty-one miles + distant. We passed on the march several salt-marshes abounding with + tadpoles, from which the effluvia was very offensive. In some places + the ground was covered with deposits of salt to the depth of a + quarter of an inch. I am much pleased with our new guide, Le + Bombard, who appears to have a very accurate knowledge of the + country, although his ideas of distance are not found to be very + reliable, which is generally the case with voyageurs. + + July 20. Fitted out Lander's party, consisting of himself, Le + Frambois, Guy, and Rummell, to make a reconnoissance of Butte Maison + du Chien and the Coteau du Missouri, to connect our work with + Lieutenant Grover's survey, and join us on the Mouse River in four + days. We moved off about half past six, and after traveling five + miles reached the first tributary of the Mouse River. The crossing + occupied nearly three hours, the water being shoulder deep; half the + wagon-loads were removed and carried across in the india-rubber + boat. The road was generally very good, passing over a level prairie + intersected with lakes and sloughs. About twelve miles from camp we + struck a beautiful ridge, resembling a railroad embankment, which + lay directly in our compass course; on the top of this the train + moved for some miles. We passed around the first coulee of the Mouse + River, and after a march of some seventeen miles (odometer + measurement, 15.7), encamped on the bank of a small lake. + + July 21. Left camp at six A.M. It commenced raining about nine, and + lasted an hour or more. About eight miles from camp we saw the + tracks of Grover's train in a slough, by which we judged that he had + passed some days previous. Soon after this we crossed one of the + coulees making into Mouse River. These coulees are very severe on + the animals, in some places being very steep. We traveled to-day + sixteen miles. Our camp is located on the top of a ridge, which + descends into a coulee. We are about one hundred and fifty feet + above the valley of Mouse River. There is plenty of timber in the + coulee which we are to cross to-morrow in starting. + + July 22. Left camp about 6.30 o'clock, and found the crossing of the + coulee, about half a mile to our left. On the other side of the + coulee we have a fine level plateau ahead. The grand Coteau du + Missouri was in sight all day. The depth of the first coulee, as + indicated by the barometer, was eighty-two feet below our camp. + About four miles out we crossed another severe coulee one hundred + and eight feet below the level of our camp. The third coulee was a + depression of fifty-four feet, the prairie level being some + forty-two feet lower than the level of our last camp. + + While making our usual midday halt we were overtaken by two hunters + of the Red River train from the vicinity of the Selkirk settlements, + who were encamped some eight miles distant. They invited me to visit + them, which I determined upon doing, and, placing the train in + charge of Dr. Suckley, I gave him directions to move on some eight + miles, find a good camping place, and await my return. + + July 23. During my absence this morning Dr. Suckley sent Le Bombard + and Sergeant Lindner ahead some twelve miles to reconnoitre for a + good road for the train; Messrs. Tinkham and Burr went to the Mouse + River, and Mr. Moffett, accompanied by Broadwell, went to the Grand + Coteau. + + I sent Guy and Rummell ahead to Dr. Suckley's camp to apprise him of + our coming. At about four o'clock, accompanied by Governor de L'Orme + and seven of his principal men, we started towards Dr. Suckley's + camp. The whole force of the survey, headed by Dr. Suckley, + Sergeant Lindner bearing an American flag, met us about a mile out + of camp, and saluted us with a volley from their guns, the mountain + howitzer being fired three times. A large tent was put up for the + accommodation of our guests, and Governor de L'Orme was invited to + share my tent. The guard tent was made use of as a banqueting-room, + and several of the men were detailed to collect buffalo chips. The + cooks of the various messes assisted each other, and the meal was + ready for us about nine o'clock. Tinkham and Burr got in just in + time to partake of it with us, as also did Moffett and Broadwell. + Mr. Moffett reported the height of the bluff or Coteau range as + seven hundred and two feet above the level of Mouse River, and + distant twenty miles from it; the height of the hill seven miles + from the camp of to-day is two hundred and fifty-six feet. + + Seated around the camp-fire, we had a very pleasant conference with + our friends. I was very favorably impressed with Governor de L'Orme, + and with his opinion in regard to their right to hunt on our + territory, they being residents of the country north of our boundary + line. They claim the protection of both governments, and the doubt + as to the position of the boundary line makes them ignorant as to + which one they have the most claim upon. During the hunting season + they carry with them their families and their property, and they + consider that this territory is open to them, that the right to hunt + on it belongs to them, and that their children born during this + transit over our soil possess the heritage of American citizens. + With but little care, our government could obtain the whole of these + people as citizens, thus protecting and building up our frontier, + and having in this vicinity always a controlling check upon the + Indians. Already is the salutary effect of their presence visible in + the entire safety, now, with which single white men and small + parties can go through this country. Their virtuous mode of life, + their industry and frugality, their adaptation to frontier life, all + combine to render them a valuable class of people, and well worthy + the attention of our government. They expressed a desire that I + should represent these things to the government, and I assured them + that I would do so with pleasure. Governor de L'Orme, before + retiring to rest, attended to his devotions, and I have been struck + with his piety and real goodness, manifested in his conduct and + conversation. + + July 24. We took a late breakfast this morning, and after parting + with our guests we got off at nine A.M. We halted for two hours at + noon, during which time the hunters went out and drove a herd of + buffalo towards us, and right on the line killed two fine cows. I + sent Mr. Tinkham and Paul Boulieau out to the Mouse River, which + they followed some distance, as also the River of the Lakes, joining + us at camp at eight P.M. We made fifteen miles and a quarter to-day, + and the grazing is excellent. + + July 25. The express started this morning at six for Fort Union, + which I think cannot be over one hundred and fifty miles distant. It + consists of Mr. Osgood, Boutineau, Henry Boulieau, and Gray. They + are to procure additional wagons or carts at Fort Union, and carry + letters to Lieutenants Grover and Donelson. Messrs. Tinkham, Lander, + and Paul Boulieau went to-day to make an examination of the Mouse + River valley and the River of the Lakes. We had but one coulee to + cross, and that was shallow, and offered no impediment. We made + to-day twenty-one miles, and found fine grass and excellent water at + our camp. + + July 26. We started this morning about six o'clock, and, traveling + eleven and one half miles, we halted on the bank of a lake. A herd + of buffalo approached on the south side of this lake to drink, and + crossed within gunshot on the opposite side. Some of our party fired + at them, and Le Bombard followed, and killed a fine, fat cow. About + seven miles farther on I received a letter from Mr. Osgood by the + hands of an Assiniboine Indian. The express party camped last night + about ten miles ahead of this place at a large encampment of + Assiniboine Indians, numbering some one hundred and fifty lodges and + twelve hundred persons. The Indians built for them a lodge in the + centre of their camp, and treated them with great hospitality. One + of them offered to act as Mr. Osgood's express, and he told them + that on my arrival I would have a talk with them and make them some + presents. By this note I also learned that Lieutenant Grover had + passed some eight miles to the east of our line about four days ago. + + + July 27. Reaching camp a little after noon, fifteen miles from last + night's camp, and about a quarter of a mile from that of the + Assiniboines, numbers of Indians rode out to welcome us. We found + them to be under the command of the chiefs Blue Thunder and Little + Thunder, the latter probably thirty-six years of age. As soon as we + were encamped, they informed me that they had reserved a present of + skins for me, and were making preparations to have a talk. While + dinner was being prepared, many seated themselves in squads around + the tents, smoking with the men. One large pipe served a dozen, and + the custom adopted is to smoke it a little and pass it to their + neighbor, and thus go round. It is the first signal of welcome or + friendship after the hand is offered, and they will have no business + or other transaction previous to it. + + After dinner, accompanied by Dr. Suckley, Messrs. Stanley, Lander, + Tinkham, Everett, Evans, Adams, Menoc, with Paul Boulieau, Le + Bombard, and Le Frambois as interpreters, I went to their camp, + which was irregularly arranged in a sort of corral, consisting of + about one hundred and fifty lodges, averaging ten persons to each + lodge. + + Our approach was hailed by the barking of an immense number of dogs. + These dogs are a prominent feature in every Indian camp, being used + for drawing lodges, provisions, and property from place to + place,--indeed, furnishing the entire transportation of the Indians + in winter. A sledge drawn by four dogs will carry two hundred pounds + over the snow with great ease. They appeared also to be abundantly + supplied with horses, many of which were of good quality. All the + women and children turned out of the lodges as we passed, curious to + see us. Frames of poles stood around, upon which skins and meat were + drying. Yet, in spite of the appearance of plenty, all had a look of + poverty, judging from the meagreness of clothing and the length of + time it appeared to have been worn, while all appeared very filthy + and miserable. + + A very large lodge, about fifty feet in diameter, had been erected + for our reception in the centre of the inclosure, within which we + found seated two circles of chiefs, braves, warriors, and others. At + the back of the lodge was arranged a long seat for us, consisting of + a pile of skins, which were afterwards presented to me. + + There were about eighty persons present, including our own party. + During the preparation for the ceremonial reception, there was a + general smoking among all present, during which an old man, one of + the dignitaries of the tribe, prepared the pipe of reception, only + smoked on great occasions. The stem was decked with ribbons of + various colors, and when it stood obliquely, feathers would drop + down like the wing of a bird. At the lower end of this pipe, where + it enters the bowl, was a duck's head. The pipe-stem was supported + against a small stick stuck in the ground and crotched at the end. + The pipe was turned towards the sun, the invariable practice in such + cases. Some sweet grass, platted, was then set on fire and used in + the manner of incense, both to the bowl and the stem. After lighting + the pipe with the scented grass, it was planted near by in a small + hole and burned. + + During the smoking the bearer of the pipe shook hands with each + member of our party, handing the pipe after this ceremony was over. + Then a bowl of water was handed around by a second individual, who + also shook hands with each one of us before we drank of the contents + of the bowl. Next came the eating of soup, made of buffalo and + typsina, a species of turnip, which was rich and greasy but quite + palatable. Soon after this ceremony, which completed the reception, + an old man advanced to me and shook hands, after which he shook the + hand of each member of our company. His appearance was much in his + favor, carrying himself with great dignity. With considerable + fluency, and at times with many gestures, he addressed me + substantially as follows: + + "My father, you see us now as we are. We are poor. We have but few + blankets and little clothing. The Great Father of Life, who made + us and gave us these lands to live upon, made the buffalo and + other game to afford us subsistence; their meat is our only food; + with their skins we clothe ourselves and build our lodges. They + are our only means of life, food, fuel, and clothing. But I fear + we shall soon be deprived of these; starvation and cold will + destroy us. The buffalo are fast disappearing, and before many + years will be destroyed. As the white man advances, our means of + life will grow less. We will soon have to seek protection in our + poverty from the Great Father, who can so well supply it. + + "My father, we hear that a great road is to be made through our + country. We do not know what this is for, we do not understand it, + but we think it will drive away the buffalo. We like to see our + white brothers; we like to give them the hand of friendship; but + we know that, as they come, our game goes back. What are we to + do?" + + After shaking hands with all of us he sat down, and after a short + interval of silence the chief, through his interpreter, signified a + desire to hear me reply. + + I explained that the road to be made from the Mississippi to the + Pacific would not injure the Indians, nor deprive them of comforts; + that whites would settle along the line, and, though they would + drive off the buffalo, they would also supply other articles in + place of them. They would receive from the President implements of + agriculture, and learn to till the soil, so as to obtain food with + less labor than now. + + I told them that I would go through the lands of the Blackfeet and + other Indians beyond the Yellowstone, carrying the friendly messages + of the Great Father, and insisting on peace among all, to secure the + safety of the whites. My remarks seemed to make a very favorable + impression, and were received with every mark of respect. Their + approbation was shown, as each paragraph was interpreted, by the + ejaculation "How!" a common word, answering every purpose of + salutation, approval, or concurrence. + + The present they gave me consisted of thirty-two dressed skins and + two robes. + + We spent about half an hour in going around among the various + lodges, and then returned to our camp, being followed by the whole + encampment. During the time we were engaged in inspecting their + camp, they became aware of the profession of Dr. Suckley, and there + was scarcely a lodge that did not contain some patient for his + medical attention. The doctor vaccinated some eight or nine, and + through Le Frambois explained its object. It was near dusk when the + party arrived at our camp and were arranged to receive their + presents. They were seated around in the form of three sides of a + square, the open side being opposite the places occupied by our + party, the chief, and higher order of the Indians. At each of the + four corners was posted a brave or chief. These men never receive a + gift, considering it a degradation to receive anything but what + their own prowess acquires for them. Their hearts are so good and + strong that they scorn to take anything, and self-denial and the + power to resist temptation to luxury, or easily acquired property, + is a boast with them. On these men in time of peace, when + difficulties occur among themselves, the tribe relies, and in time + of war they are their leaders to the scene of action. To two old men + of the tribe was assigned the duty of making the distribution, and + the presents were placed in the centre of the area. During the whole + distribution the Indians sat in perfect silence. All seemed + satisfied with the articles they received, and not a grumble escaped + one of them. After this was over they returned to their camp, the + chiefs and braves remaining. At half past eight we had a collation + of coffee and bread in our mess tent, and remained till a late hour, + smoking and conversing. Soon after this our friends left, myself and + the interpreters escorting them outside the sentinels. I was much + pleased with these Indians, and they seemed to be very favorably + inclined towards the whites, and sincere in their professions of + friendship. Nothing to-day of the slightest value has been missed, + as far as I can learn. + + July 28. It was very late this morning before we started, being + occupied in fitting out a party, consisting of Mr. Lander, Dr. + Suckley, Mr. Burr, and Corporal Rummell, with instructions to strike + the Pierced Rock on Mouse River, and make a careful examination for + coal and iron. They were to explore the White Earth River, examine + the Coteau du Missouri, and, reaching the 49th parallel, make a + detour to the northwest, and arrive at the Yellowstone in some three + or four days. + +Four days later, on August 1, after a march of eighty miles along the +Mouse River and the River of the Lakes, they reached Fort Union. As the +broad Missouri and its beautiful bluff banks dotted with timber came +into view, the whole party gave three cheers. Lieutenants Donelson and +Grover, who had already arrived at the fort, and Mr. Denig, the trader +in charge, came out to meet them. The governor mounted his horse, for +the first time since the false alarm about the Sioux, and received them +with a salute of a volley of small-arms, which was answered by thirteen +guns from the fort. News was brought of the death of sapper White, of +Donelson's party, by the accidental discharge of a gun in his own hands. +Camp was soon pitched, and the whole party assembled at the governor's +tent. + + "I congratulated them on the zealous performance of their duty, gave + them a cordial invitation to go on, and whatever their + determination, even should they leave us here, promised them an + honorable discharge. All seemed desirous of going on, and not one + availed himself of the opportunity to leave the expedition. + + "By the great vigilance exercised on the march, the animals had been + constantly improving, gaining flesh and becoming cured of sores, so + that, though we started from the Mississippi with forty disabled + animals, all but one were serviceable on our arrival at Fort Union. + + "The whole distance from St. Paul to Fort Union is by odometer + measurement 715.5 miles, and we had accomplished it in 55 days, and, + excluding halts from time to time, in 48 traveling days. The rate of + traveling was therefore about 15 miles a day, most of the way over a + country almost unknown, without roads, and with such an imperfect + knowledge of the distances to be made between camps as to cramp our + movements much more than if the route had been measured and + itineraries constructed for our use." + +FOOTNOTES: + + [3] Lander, it seems, was an inveterate horse-killer, and almost + always returned from his trips with his animal badly used up. + Buffalo chips are the dried dung frequently used on the plains + as a substitute for fuel where there is no wood. + + + + + CHAPTER XVIII + + FORT UNION TO FORT BENTON + + + "Fort Union is situated on the eastern bank of the Missouri, about + two miles and three quarters above the mouth of the Yellowstone. It + was built by the American Fur Company in 1830, and has from that + time been the principal depot of that company. It is framed of + pickets of hewn timber, about sixteen feet high, and has two + bastions, one at the northwest and one at the southeast corner. The + main or front entrance is on the side opposite the river. The fort + is 250 feet square. The main buildings, comprising the residence of + the superintendent and the store, are on the front or eastern side. + They are two stories high, and built of wood. The shops and + dwellings of the blacksmith, the gunsmith, the carpenter, the + shoemaker, the tailor, and others are of adobe or of wood, and + occupy the other sides. These mechanics are mostly French + half-breeds, and have half-breed or Indian wives and many children. + There is a grassy plain around the fort, extending to the base of + the rising ground, which is a full mile distant on the eastern side. + The Assiniboines, the Gros Ventres, the Crows, and other migratory + bands of Indians trade at this fort, exchanging the skins of the + buffalo, deer, and other animals for such commodities as they + require. Mr. Culbertson, who has occupied the position of chief + agent of the company during the past twenty years, has under his + supervision not only Fort Union, but Forts Pierre and Benton also. + He is a man of great energy, intelligence, and fidelity, and + possesses the entire confidence of the Indians. His wife, a + full-blooded Indian of the Blood band of the Blackfoot tribe, is + also deservedly held in high estimation. Though she appears to have + made little or no progress in our language, she has acquired the + manners and adapted herself to the usages of the white race with + singular facility. Their children have been sent to the States to + be educated in our best schools." + +Fort Union was long since abandoned. + +Agreeably to instructions, Mr. Culbertson, immediately on reaching Fort +Union, dispatched expresses to the chiefs of the Blackfoot nation with +presents of tobacco and goods, and Governor Stevens's message:-- + + "I desire to meet you on the way, and assure you of the fatherly + care and beneficence of the government. I wish to meet the Blackfeet + in a general council at Fort Benton. Do not make war upon your + neighbors. Remain at peace, and the Great Father will see that you + do not lose by it." + +The Blackfeet at this time numbered 12,000, divided into four great +bands,--Blackfeet proper, Bloods, Piegans, and Gros Ventres. Pressing +down from the north over a century before, they drove back the Crows, +Shoshones, and Flatheads, and took possession of all the country about +the headwaters of the Missouri from above the boundary line to the +Yellowstone, and from the Rocky Mountains eastward to Fort Union. True +Ishmaelites, they waged perpetual war upon all other tribes, and +cherished special and inveterate hostility against the whites ever since +one of their number was slain by Captain Lewis, of Lewis and Clark's +expedition, in 1807. They suffered, indeed, two rival trading-posts on +the upper Missouri, three hundred miles above Fort Union, namely, Fort +Benton and Fort Campbell, for it was indispensable for them to exchange +their peltries for arms, ammunition, blankets, and goods; but the +traders never dared admit them within the forts. + +War was their sole business, the only means by which the young braves +acquired influence, gained wealth, and found favor in the eyes of the +maidens. Their war parties invariably started out on foot, each warrior +trailing a long lariat, and bearing a bundle of moccasins with rawhide +soles. It was a point of honor never to return unless mounted, and war +parties were sometimes absent over a year before they succeeded in +capturing their steeds. Penetrating thus on foot from three hundred to a +thousand miles into the country of their foes, they would patiently lurk +in the mountains, or some hidden resort, until an opportunity offered, +when, running off the horses, and perhaps lifting a few scalps, they +would retreat home at full speed, mounted and triumphant. Thus they +raided the Crows and Assiniboines on the east and south, the Shoshones, +Snakes, and Flatheads on the west, and even beset the emigrant trail of +the Platte and South Pass, eight hundred miles distant; and many a +lonely trapper and emigrant had fallen victim to their cunning and +ferocity. Yet the chiefs and elders plainly saw that this incessant +warfare was slowly but surely cutting off their warriors in detail, and +threatened the ultimate extinction of the tribe, and were not unwilling +to relinquish it for a more peaceful mode of life, but ever found it +impossible to restrain the young braves. + +With these powerful and intractable savages Governor Stevens undertook +to make a lasting peace, not only between them and the whites, but also +between them and their hereditary enemies, the other Indian tribes. He +early realized that the establishment of peace and the cessation of +Blackfoot war parties were indispensable to the exploration and +settlement of the country, and the passage of emigrants through it, and +characteristically set to work to effect it, without waiting for orders. +He took every opportunity to meet and confer with the chiefs and parties +of the Blackfeet, urging them to make peace, and proposing a great +council for the next year, at which they and the whites and the other +Indian tribes were to meet together and unite in bonds of lasting +friendship. From Fort Benton the governor reported his views and action +to the government, and in the strongest manner recommended the holding +of the council. He sent Mr. Culbertson expressly to carry his report to +Washington, and impress his policy upon the government. It is remarkable +how Governor Stevens, although eminently loyal and subordinate to +authority, always impressed his own views upon the government, and +caused them to be adopted, instead of waiting for instructions to be +given him. With his sagacious foresight and ardent patriotism, he was +quick to discern needed measures, which always appeared to him as duties +to be undertaken, and moreover he had such courage and force of +character that he never hesitated to take the responsibility of any +action that he deemed necessary for the public welfare. + +Thus far the expedition had met with most gratifying success. Lieutenant +Donelson made a satisfactory examination of the Missouri to a point one +hundred and twenty-five miles above Fort Union, and an extended +reconnoissance of the country north of that point. The main party +surveyed two routes westward from Pike Lake, and ascertained the +topographical features on both flanks for a wide scope, while Lander, +during the stay at Fort Union, examined the Mouse River country +northward to the 49th parallel. Dr. Evans was at work geologizing in the +Bad Lands on the other side of the Missouri. The force was now hardened +to field work and in fine spirits, and the animals were toughened, +thoroughly broken, and in fine condition. + + "From the 2d to the 9th of August we were closely occupied in + preparing for the continuation of the survey. The men were engaged + in making Pembina carts, and additional transportation was purchased + of the fur companies. Our experience thus far had shown how well + adapted ox-trains were to transportation, and accordingly two + additional teams were added at Fort Union. In all these + arrangements both the fur companies zealously coöperated, placing at + my disposal not only all the animals they could spare, but guides, + hunters, and their information in regard to the country. We were + much pleased and benefited by the good offices of the Indian women + at the two posts, the wives of the officers, who fitted us out with + a good assortment of moccasins, gloves, and other guards against the + severity of the weather in the fall and winter. + + "The voyageurs belonging to the fur companies' posts thought it a + good practical joke to spread bugbear stories about the immense + snows to be expected early in the season, and many of the men got to + believe that they would find snow knee-deep before they reached Fort + Benton, and that it would be twenty feet deep in the passes of the + Rocky Mountains in October, and the men became exceedingly alarmed. + Fortunately I had with me some books of travel in that country, + particularly De Smet's 'Oregon Missions,' and had carefully + investigated the climates of the country west of the Rocky + Mountains. Mr. Culbertson and the officers of the companies also + gave me reliable information in reference to the lightness and + lateness of the snow this side of the mountains, and therefore + little difficulty was found in satisfying the men that they had been + trifled with in this matter." + +Advancing the expedition westward again in two parties under Lieutenants +Grover and Donelson on the 9th of August, the governor, to quote from +his final report, + + started on the 10th from Fort Union at about twelve o'clock, + followed by a war party of the Blackfeet, consisting of twenty Blood + Indians and forty Piegan Indians, who arrived at Fort Union on the + 8th on a visit to my party, and with whom I had had the most + friendly interchange of civilities. I desired their company for two + or three days in order to impress them fully with the beneficent + policy of our government towards the Indians, and with the peaceable + character of my own duties and objects, intending then to dispatch + them on their way to their several tribes, and to make generally + known to the Blackfoot nation our objects in passing through their + country. I camped that evening with Lieutenant Grover on the Little + Muddy River, when, towards night, a serious difficulty came near + happening between them and our party. Mr. Culbertson and myself, + however, succeeded in arranging the matter, and we spent a most + interesting evening with the principal men in conversing about the + Blackfeet and the Indian policy of our government. On this occasion + I presented the subject of a general council to be held at Fort + Benton the ensuing year, to make peace between the Blackfoot Indians + and the hunting tribes west of the mountains, and to preserve peace + with the white children of the Great Father. On this as on previous + occasions, Mrs. Culbertson, a native of the Blood tribe of the + Blackfeet, was unwearied and efficient in her good offices. + + The next day we reached the Big Muddy River. The crossing was at a + difficult ford, and we were all highly gratified at the zeal and + efficiency of one of the Blackfeet, who pulled as steadily at the + rope as any man of my party. + + Before leaving the Big Muddy I had a long conversation with the + White Man's Horse, the chief of the war party of Blackfeet. He had + frequently visited the Bitter Root valley, and stolen horses from + the Flatheads. He observed, "I take the first Flathead horse I come + to; it is sure to be a good one." He and one of his men had just + returned from the Flathead country, and they gave a very favorable + description of the route, assuring me, pointing to my wagons and + Pembina carts, that there would be no difficulty in taking them + through the mountains. The country between Fort Union and this point + is broken and rolling, with occasional formations of the _mauvaise + terre_ and outcroppings of sandstone. On the Big Muddy there is + quite a large and open valley of a very good soil and excellent + grass, with a very heavy growth of cottonwood near its junction with + the Missouri. + + On starting from the Big Muddy on the 14th of August, the command + was in most excellent condition and spirits. Two of the mule teams + were strengthened by an additional pair of mules, and the wagons + were somewhat overloaded; for I determined to take nearly all my + provisions along, so there should be no possibility of suffering for + want of food, even though the depot of provisions in the Bitter Root + valley had not been established by Lieutenant Saxton. We made eleven + and a half miles, and encamped at a most beautiful point in the + midst of luxuriant grass. The day was very sultry, some rain fell, + and one ox died from the heat. + + August 15. Excellent road all day. Crossed Poplar River and encamped + on the west side, distance eighteen miles. I now felt the importance + of renovating my health in order to prepare for the mountain work. + It had been my custom thus far to continue at work till midnight, + and to be up with the first in the morning. + + August, 16. The road to-day was over the level river-bottom of the + Missouri. Timber in sight all day, the route running through timber + for about a mile. Reached a camp where there was excellent water, + grass, and abundance of timber at five o'clock, making twenty three + and two thirds miles. I issued this evening an order directing every + person in the expedition, so far as it was consistent with his + duties, to walk a portion of the way each day; for in approaching + the mountains my effort was that the animals should be increasing + rather than diminishing in flesh, and our experience had taught us + that, by care in all these particulars, long marches could be made + and the animals improved each day. + + August 17. Made fifteen miles to-day, and camped on the Missouri at + two o'clock. The road was over the level river-bottom. Much side + work has been done since leaving the Big Muddy by Lieutenant Grover, + Mr. Lander, and Mr. Tinkham, and the meteorological observations + have been as numerous as they were on the route up to Fort Union. We + organized to-day a day guard for the care of the animals, the object + being to keep them in the best grazing without picketing as long as + possible. + + August 18. Passed through to-day villages of prairie dogs. Crossed + the Porcupine River about five miles from camp. Encamped on Milk + River, sixteen miles being the day's march. Here we determined to + remain a day to prepare charcoal for the blacksmith, and to make + observations for the geographical position of its mouth, which is + considered a very important point in the survey. Our camp was + surrounded by a large grove of cottonwood, and near it was a + delightful spring of water. The valley of Milk River is wide and + open, with a heavy growth of cottonwood as far as the eye can reach, + which is also to be found along the adjacent shores of the Missouri. + + At this camp, which I named Camp Atchison, in honor of the acting + Vice-President, I reduced to writing, and issued in an order, the + instructions for the government of the expedition and the + distribution of duties, under which we had been moving by my verbal + instructions from the Big Muddy River. I availed myself of this + opportunity to express my sense of the services of the several + members of my party. On the 19th there was some little alarm in camp + in consequence of false reports about the vicinity of a war party of + Blackfeet. + + We left Camp Atchison on the 20th, and after moving fifteen miles + reached a very pleasant camp, with excellent grass, wood, and water. + In the evening there was a very heavy thunder-storm. My order was + read to the gentlemen of the party this evening, and was the subject + of general congratulation, and not a little mischievous by-play or + joking. + + August 21. This morning was clear, cool, pleasant, and delightful + for moving. Engineer parties, both yesterday and to-day, have been + actively at work getting in the country bordering the route of the + main party. I dispatched a small party across Milk River to Panther + Hill to observe the country. Game was very abundant; plenty of + buffalo, antelope, and beaver. A heavy rain and thunder-storm + occurred about noon. Wild horses were reported as having been seen + to-day by the reconnoitring parties. A fine eagle was shot and + brought in to Dr. Buckley, our naturalist. To my exceeding regret, I + found that there were points arising regarding the relations of army + officers and civilians, and I concluded that the only way to + overcome all difficulty was to pursue a firm, steady course, + according to the terms of my written order. The distance to-day was + seventeen and two thirds miles. + + August 22. We crossed Milk River five miles from camp, and took a + cut off to the south. We made our camp, after moving nineteen and a + half miles, a quarter of a mile from the river, in the vicinity of a + very heavy growth of cottonwood, there being a high bluff between us + and the river. As usual, the evening was spent in considering the + question of the proposed Blackfoot council, and in examining the + work of the parties, and preparing for the work ahead. We passed + through large herds of buffalo to-day. + + August 23. We left camp late in consequence of the oxen straying, + and about a mile from camp crossed Milk River. The order to walk + some miles each day has been carefully observed, and the effect was + to be seen upon our animals. On reaching our camping-ground, we + found a deputation of Gros Ventres, consisting of seven of their + chiefs, five of whom were accompanied by their wives. Among these + was the Eagle Chief and his son, White Eagle, and the Little + Soldier. The wife of the son of Eagle Chief was a very pretty woman. + Her name was the White Antelope. They welcomed us in the most + cordial manner, and were dignified in their deportment, which was + marked by the strictest propriety. We were invited to visit their + camp, about thirty miles farther on. After smoking and talking for + some time, lunch was served up about dusk, consisting of coffee, + rice, etc., after which they made us presents of horses, giving one + to myself and two to Mr. Culbertson, to whom they seemed to be much + attached. There was a large tent put up for their accommodation, and + supper was provided about ten o'clock. + + As my health had now been rapidly improving for some days, I + determined to push ahead as rapidly as possible with two advance + parties in order to examine the approaches to the mountains. + Accordingly I organized two parties, under Lieutenant Grover and Mr. + Lander, for the above purpose. To Mr. Lander I assigned four and to + Lieutenant Grover five members of the party. Each was provided with + reserve horses, and with fifty days' rations of flour, sugar, and + coffee. These arrangements delayed me, so that on the following + morning, + + August 24, I got off somewhat late, and was obliged to go into camp + seven and a half miles this side of the Indian camp. Our Indian + friends were again with us to-night, and we treated them with bread + and coffee. + + I learned to-day that a feud has lately broken out between the Gros + Ventres and the Blackfoot tribes. A Gros Ventre was married to a + Blackfoot woman. Traveling along, he was attacked, killed, and a + fleet horse of his stolen. His wife was with him at the time, and + the assassin proposed that she should marry him, go northward, and + the Gros Ventres would never learn of the death of one of their + tribe. She assented. He gave her the slow animal, upon which he had + ridden himself, mounting the fast horse, which had been taken from + her murdered husband. They soon arrived at water; she went off to + get some, and on her return pressed him to go, as the water was very + good. He did so, leaving his horse with the squaw. After he had gone + some two or three hundred yards she mounted the fast steed, and, + pursuing a contrary direction, joined the tribe of her deceased + husband, and gave such information as would lead to the revenge of + his untimely death. I find these Indians determined to revenge this + outrage, and they are now fitting out war parties for the purpose of + cutting off straggling Blackfeet, and stealing their horses. + + August 25. Took an early breakfast, making to-day twenty-two and a + half miles, when we reached the camp of Gros Ventres on the bank of + Milk River, at half past three o'clock. This camp consisted of three + hundred lodges, at least one thousand horses, and over two thousand + Indians. We were soon waited on by others of the tribe, dressed in + their finest costumes, among whom I would name the Cloudy Robe, who + presented me with a horse; the Eagle, Big Top, the Discoverer or + Ball in the Nose, the Man who goes on Horseback, the White Tail + Deer, the Running Fisher, the Two Elks, the Wolf Talker, the Bear's + Coat, White Bear, the Clay Pipestem Carrier, the Old Horse, the + Sitting Squaw, the Little White Calf. Accompanied by the gentlemen + of the party, I visited their camp and the lodges of the principal + chiefs, at all of which we were treated with the utmost kindness and + hospitality. They first received us in a large lodge prepared for + the occasion, some twenty-five feet in diameter, within which some + sixty were seated. We here smoked, drank, and ate, talked some time, + and then visited the lodges. I was much struck with the prominent + characteristics of this tribe. Polygamy is universal; several of the + chiefs above named having four, five, and even six wives, one of + whom is the especial favorite and mistress of the household. The + husband will appropriate any of them to purposes of prostitution + when he can profit by so doing. They are filthy in the extreme in + their habits, many of the women actually eating the vermin out of + each other's heads, and out of the robes in which they sleep. Being + improvident, it is always feast or famine. Returned to camp about + eight o'clock, and fixed the next day for a council. + + August 26. The Pembina train arrived shortly after breakfast, and + the main train about noon. The necessary preparations were made for + the feast, and about one o'clock the Indians were seated around in + squads of twenty or thirty to the number of two hundred. Before the + feast the Indians seemed to be in high glee, passing the time in + singing their songs, accompanying them with rattles made of the + hoofs of antelopes strung very fancifully upon a piece of wood about + a foot long, with which they marked time. + + Shortly after the feast was over we had a council, at which the + chiefs and many of the principal men were present. Mr. Culbertson + acted as interpreter. When I first commenced talking with them, I + found they were deeply enraged against the Blackfeet for the cause + alluded to in the journal of the 24th; that they were determined to + wage war against that tribe. I determined to put an end to this, and + at once made a proposition to them to settle with that tribe on + their delivery of the offender, or making a suitable reparation. I + then explained the folly of going to war; how much they would suffer + from it and how little was to be gained; that it was the desire of + the Great Father that all his children should be at peace with each + other; that while war parties of both tribes were scouring the + country, the road was dangerous to the whites who should go there; + and it was my duty to demand that they should not so act as to + endanger the life of a single man of my own party, or any white man + who should hereafter travel through this region. + + I then proceeded to explain the objects of the expedition in passing + through their country. I wished to make a treaty of peace between + the Gros Ventres, Blackfeet, Piegans, and Bloods, and between these + and the Indians west of the mountains who resort to the plains of + the Missouri to hunt the buffalo. I then proceeded to explain the + advantages which would arise to the Indians from entering into such + a treaty, and receiving from the government directly what they now + get from other Indians. They would then obtain goods, provisions, + etc., in the way of annuities; could keep their horses, instead of + being obliged to go with their horses and purchase of other Indians + at an increased price, what the liberality and benevolence of the + Great Father, in his fostering care over his children, would at once + freely and abundantly supply them. "Think well of the matter. + Suspend for the present your difficulty with the Blackfoot Indians. + Let some of your chiefs come with me to Fort Benton, and we will try + to settle the difficulty between the tribes. If it cannot be settled + there, let it be referred to a commissioner sent here by the Great + Father, who will settle all your differences at a council of the + tribes to be held next year, where the grievances of both parties + will be fully heard. But I must insist on the safe conduct of every + white man through this country." + + They then held a consultation with their braves and principal men. + In about an hour we met again. They assented to every proposition + made. Some of their chiefs consented to accompany me to Fort Benton, + and the whole tribe announced their willingness to wait until some + time next year, and refer their difficulties to such a council. We + continued the talk for some time, after which the Indians were + invited to come over to the camp of the main party and witness the + firing of the howitzer, which seemed to give them much pleasure. + About five o'clock we made a distribution of the presents and + provisions designed for this tribe, consisting of blankets, shirts, + calico, knives, beads, paint, powder, shot, tobacco, hard bread, + etc. They received them with the greatest satisfaction; no grumbling + or envy was manifested. They continued about our camp, loitering, + smoking, and talking, all the afternoon and evening. + + August 27. Busy this morning in the purchase and exchange of horses + with the Indians. We secured several very good horses in place of + six very indifferent mules. Several members of the expedition bought + horses for clothing, guns, etc., their private property, thus + relieving for the use of the expedition their present riding + animals. By the distribution of presents and provisions, and + consumption at camp, we lightened our loads some two thousand + pounds, apart from the issue to the detached parties, and have + received twelve serviceable animals in place of unserviceable ones, + besides four new ones purchased by members of the party, two + presented to me, and two purchased by Mr. Culbertson. + + August 28. I made to-day twenty-four and a half miles with the + advance parties. I was very much pleased with the good offices of + the Running Fisher, who brought into camp two of our missing horses. + By my invitation he will accompany us to Fort Benton. + + August 29. The road to-day was not as good as usual: the + river-bottom was much dried up, with deep cracks in the soil, and + the numerous holes made by the prairie dogs were even, at times, a + worse obstacle to our progress. Made our halt about twelve miles + from camp, where we dined. By an accident, the wind being high, the + prairie took fire, which extended over considerable surface. Our + dining-place was on a branch of Milk River, flowing from Cypress + Mountain. Parallel to this, and some three miles farther on, crossed + a second branch, issuing also from the Cypress Mountain. By a bend, + the two branches nearly meet, forming what is called the junction. + + Mr. Culbertson estimates the number of the Gros Ventres at about + three hundred lodges, ten persons to the lodge, of which the + proportion of men to women is one to two, the number of men being + about six hundred. On his arrival in the country twenty-three years + ago, they numbered four hundred lodges. In 1838-39, by a junction of + the Crees and Assiniboines, some sixty lodges were entirely + destroyed at Julius Mountain. A few years subsequently another + attack was made at Cypress Mountain, in which sixty more lodges were + exterminated, three men only escaping on this occasion, one of whom + was the Sitting Squaw, father of the one already mentioned. Soon + after Mr. Culbertson's arrival in the country, he and four or five + other whites, with a party of Blackfoot Indians, were attacked by a + war party of Assiniboines, numbering some seven or eight hundred. + The field was contested all day, night only ending the conflict. In + the morning the Assiniboines did not resume the attack, and + abandoned many of their dead on the field. A considerable number of + the Blackfeet were also killed, but none of the whites. + + August 30. Yesterday we were in sight of the Bear's Paw, quite a + broad and rugged mountain upheaval, stretching from Milk River to + the Missouri. I sent off Lieutenant Grover, Mr. Lander, and Mr. + Stanley, to make an examination of the Bear's Paw, so far as it + could be done by ascending one of its highest peaks, estimated to be + about seventeen or eighteen miles distant. I moved on myself with + the remainder of the party, having determined that I would no longer + ride in the ambulance, but would make the effort to push forward + either on horseback or on foot. After moving seven or eight miles I + suffered so exceedingly from riding that I walked some five or six + miles with great difficulty, until, coming to a good camp on our + second crossing of Milk River, and the point where we were to leave + it on our way to Fort Benton, I halted the party and rested for two + hours. This gave me strength enough to mount my horse and ride to + camp, eighteen miles farther on, on a tributary of the Box Elder + Creek. We crossed several branches of this creek, which is a + tributary of Milk River, that has its source very near the Missouri + and is on our general line to Fort Benton. The ascent is very + gradual from Milk River to our camp; the soil generally is very + good. The view this afternoon was delightful. Bear's Paw itself + presents a rugged, grotesque appearance, and it requires no great + stretch of the imagination to see in it the paw of a grizzly bear, + ready to spring upon the plain. + + The Three Buttes, or the Sweet Grass Hills, some sixty miles to the + northward of us, are a favorite resort of the Blackfeet, who say + that Providence created these hills for the tribe to ascend and look + out for buffalo. Southward we have a view of mountains on the other + side of the Missouri. Our distance to-day was twenty-nine and a half + miles. + + August 31. We made an early start this morning, and in twelve miles + came to the upper waters of the Box Elder Creek, which is a clear, + limpid stream, affording an unfailing supply of water. We then + pushed on five miles over a fine rolling prairie to a coulee in the + hills, where there was a spring, and here we halted to dine. This + spring is a great resort for buffalo. Considerable water flows from + it, but the ordure of the buffalo was in such great quantities about + it that it infected the water, and moreover they had trampled all + the ground, and had stirred up the water of the spring with their + feet. We however thought it would be well enough for us to make + coffee, and we managed to get up a very respectable meal. After + stopping three hours, we continued on over a very good road. There + was a shower of rain and hail about four P.M. At five the Missouri + was in sight, the Belt Mountains looming up beyond it at a distance + of not less than fifty miles. After a march of thirty-three miles + from our morning camp, we came to a place called the Springs; here + the water was dried up, and there was no wood, but excellent grass. + We pitched our camp in a coulee surrounded by high hills, and went + to work to dig wells for water, in hopes to procure some for our + animals. We succeeded in getting only a small quantity for each. + There was a very high wind and a heavy thunder-shower until near + midnight. Our Indian friends assisted us very much in the night in + looking out for our animals. Grover, Stanley, and Lander have not + come in, which gives me a good deal of apprehension. The Running + Fisher told me a story to-day illustrating one of the phases of + Indian life. The Bear's Paw, as one would infer from its wild and + stern appearance, has been a scene of Indian fight and massacre. + Seven years ago a fight occurred in the Bear's Paw between their + tribe, allied with the Blackfeet, and the Crows, in which he killed + one of the latter. The Crows occupied an impregnable post, from + whence they could shoot down all who approached within twenty paces. + A Blackfoot was shot in the head through a fissure in the rocks. The + Gros Ventres then determined to surround and starve them out; at + night the Crows got off with the loss of one man, killed by Running + Fisher. + + September 1. This morning we made an early start, and, crossing over + a high, rolling prairie, in eleven miles and three quarters came to + the Marias River. The descent to this river on the trail is somewhat + steep, the prairie plateau being over two hundred feet above the + river-bottom. The river itself here presents a beautiful view. It is + a clear, limpid stream, flowing over a pebbly and sandy bed, the + bottoms lined with cottonwood of heavy growth, with thickets of the + service and other berries. The Belt Mountains are very distinctly + visible in the distance, as is also Citadel Hill, called so because + its base rests upon the Missouri, and it rises perpendicularly like + a bastion some two hundred feet high. Near by is Square Hill, so + called from its supposed resemblance to that geometrical figure. + + At our noon halt, or near by, was the scene of a sanguinary conflict + between the Gros Ventres and the Crows in 1849, in which the latter + were all killed. Several of those traveling in our company figured + in the action. A party of Crows to the number of twenty-two were + concealed in the hollow just in advance of where we dined, for the + purpose of stealing horses from the Gros Ventres' camp, consisting + of two hundred lodges. Being discovered, the Gros Ventres surrounded + them, and threw up dust in the air, which was carried by a strong + wind in the faces of the Crows, blinding them, when the Gros Ventres + rushed in upon them, and killed the whole number without losing a + man. None were left to carry home the news. + + We were off about noon; passed over the prairie, and descended in + the valley of the Teton, where we met Mr. Clarke, in charge of Fort + Benton, who came out to meet us. We arrived at Fort Benton at 3.30 + o'clock, where we were received with a salute of fifteen guns. + + Fort Benton stands on the eastern bank of the Missouri, near the + Great Bend, and three hundred and seventy-seven miles by the trail + taken by me above Fort Union. The river is here perfectly + transparent at most seasons of the year. The Teton River empties + into the Missouri six miles below Fort Benton, the Marias twelve + miles below, and the Milk two hundred miles below. The falls of the + Missouri are seventy miles above this fort. The muddy character of + the Missouri has its commencement at the mouth of Milk River, which + takes its name from the whitish muddiness of its waters. The ascent + from the wide, grassy plain in which the fort is located to the high + table-land is somewhat abrupt, the only passage on a level with the + plain being close to the river on the south and very narrow. Fort + Benton is smaller than Fort Union. Its front is made of wood, and + the other sides of adobe, or unburned brick. It usually contains + about a dozen men, and the families of several of them. The + Blackfoot Indians are the principal traders here. It is the custom + of the several bands of this tribe to locate in sheltered and + otherwise eligible places in the vicinity of wood, water, and grass + in the early winter, where they remain as inert as possible until + the melting of the snow. At such times the half-breeds of the fort + visit them with goods upon horses and mules, and exchange their + merchandise for the skins and furs captured by the Indians. + + Fort Campbell is situated on the same plateau with Fort Benton, + about half a mile above it, and is built in very much the same way + as the latter place. + + I was agreeably relieved by the missing gentlemen coming into the + fort September 3. They were in fine spirits, although they had eaten + but little food since they left me on Milk River, had traveled a + very long distance, partly on foot, and had been a good deal annoyed + at the loss of so much time. + + + + + CHAPTER XIX + + WIDESPREAD EXPLORING PARTIES + + +For several days Governor Stevens was busily engaged in examining +voyageurs and Indians in regard to the mountain passes and the general +character of the country. Additional horses were procured, and +arrangements made for sending out parties to explore in advance and both +north and south of the route. Lieutenant Donelson with the main train +reached the fort on the 6th. Dr. Evans arrived on the 5th, after an +extended trip through the Bad Lands, where he made a large collection of +geological specimens. The same day Lieutenant Grover was sent forward +with a small party to the Bitter Root valley, crossing the main divide +of the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of ascertaining if Lieutenant +Saxton had established his depot of provisions at that point. Thence he +was directed to forward an express to Captain McClellan and return to +Fort Benton. + +Lieutenant John Mullan, with a party of six men, was sent southward to +the Muscle Shell River, not only to examine the country, but also to +convey to a band of Flathead Indians supposed to be in that region "a +message of peace and goodwill, to express my desire to make a permanent +peace between them and the Blackfeet, and to build up anew their +beautiful St. Mary's village." Thence he was to cross the mountains by a +more southerly pass and rejoin the main party in the Bitter Root valley. + +The governor decided to send Lieutenant Donelson ahead with a party of +twenty-five men to examine the approaches to Cadotte's Pass, the main +train to follow more slowly in charge of Mr. Osgood, and to dispatch +Lander to examine a pass at the head of the Marias River, considerably +north of Cadotte's. "I gave Mr. Lander," says the governor, "authority, +with certain exceptions, to select his animals from my whole train, +deeming it important that he should be exceedingly well fitted out, as +he would probably have a long distance to make before he joined the main +party in the valley of Clark's Fork." The governor was exceedingly +desirous of taking his wagons across the mountains as the most striking +demonstration of the practicability of the passes. + +The following from a letter of George W. Stevens, of September 10, shows +the high spirits and fine condition of the party:-- + + "We have reached this point with our full number of scalp-locks, and + now are preparing to cross the mountains. Up to this point we have + proceeded with wonderful success, and have done what no American + expedition has done before us. We have not felt the slightest + hardship, but the journey of over one thousand miles has been made + with as much ease and comfort as we could possibly have experienced + in traveling at home fully equipped. Our train, of forty wagons and + carts, over two hundred animals, and more than one hundred men, has + safely arrived. Not a man has died (except one who accidentally shot + himself), nor has there been a single case of serious illness. Not + more than a dozen or fifteen animals have been lost, and as a + general thing they are now in as good condition as when we left the + Mississippi. We are now eighty miles from the Rocky Mountains. On + Monday we leave with a train of twelve wagons, with which we hope to + make a comfortable crossing of the mountains in twenty days. + Yesterday the fort was the scene of the greatest confusion, growing + out of the preparations making to fit out four 'war parties,' as we + term them. The first, under Mr. Lander, explores the Marias Pass, + the most northern and nearly in the latitude of the boundary line. + The second, under Lieutenant Mullan, goes to the Muscle Shell. The + third war party is under the direction of Lieutenant Donelson, and + is to survey the approaches to Cadotte's Pass, the one which will be + taken by the main train. A fourth war party is the major's own to a + camp of Piegan Indians. Lieutenant Grover is already in the + mountains. The major's health is excellent, and though the labor is + enormous, he is the only man who could have carried the expedition + through in so glorious a manner. If he succeeds in getting the + wagons through, he will have opened a good emigrant road from the + Mississippi to the Pacific, and you may be sure the attempt will be + most vigorously made. If fortune continues with us, within two + months we shall reach Puget Sound, that looked-for garden-spot. We + have met the Assiniboine and Gros Ventre bands of Indians, and by + both were hospitably received. Upon the Sheyenne River we first came + upon buffalo, and from that point until a week's journey back we + have met them in the greatest abundance. Buffalo meat has, + therefore, been our principal article of food, and we ask nothing + better." + +A very serious difficulty of another kind now confronted Governor +Stevens. He found that the funds allotted to his exploration would not +suffice to carry on the work so far and so thoroughly as he deemed +necessary, and he was forced to the alternative of cutting it short or +incurring a deficiency. He decided to continue the work, notwithstanding +the great pecuniary risk to himself, and the risk, too, of incurring the +serious displeasure of the government:-- + + "I very frankly and explicitly stated that to continue the survey, + and to carry out the instructions with regard to the work to be + accomplished, it was absolutely necessary to incur a deficiency: + believing that, if the facts as they existed were known to Congress + and the department, their instructions would be for me to continue + the exploration, I determined to incur the deficiency and make the + survey. My instructions required me to examine into the question of + the snows on the route, into the freshets of the streams, and the + period of time they were locked up by the ice, to do which it was + indispensable that there should be winter posts established at Fort + Benton, and in the Bitter Root valley; and it was desirable, in + connection with these posts, to have such arrangements made, and + such facilities afforded, as would enable the gentlemen in charge of + them to continue the explorations of the passes and the adjacent + country." + +In a letter to Professor Bache the governor gives the reasons for his +incurring the deficiency, which were, briefly stated, the delay in the +start, owing to the young and unbroken animals furnished by the +quartermaster's department, notwithstanding that the governor had sent +an agent especially to St. Louis to insure the securing of seasoned and +broken animals, and to the unusually late and rainy season; the distance +across the continent, which turned out to be greater than the best +estimates previously obtainable; the fact that in consequence of the +great number of Indians on the route, and the warlike and treacherous +character of some of them, particularly the Sioux and Blackfeet, it was +necessary to make the expedition strong, especially in guides, +interpreters, and hunters; and that to carry out the instructions and +objects of the exploration it was indispensable to make extended +examinations, and to leave parties to continue the work throughout the +winter, in order to determine the questions of snow and climate. + +It is perfectly apparent that the $40,000 allotted to the Northern +route, even though eked out by the details and supplies furnished by the +War Department, were altogether inadequate to the task intrusted to +Governor Stevens. His management was marked by strict economy and good +judgment; he was simply not given sufficient funds for the work. And it +is most creditable alike to his judgment and moral courage that he +shouldered the responsibility of the deficiency, and made his complete +and exhaustive exploration. + +Having completed all these arrangements, made his reports to the War and +Indian departments, and started off the several detached parties, the +governor decided to visit personally the main camp of the Blackfeet, +near the Cypress Mountain, about one hundred miles north of Fort Benton, +and just above the 49th parallel, in order to confer with their chiefs +in regard to the contemplated council at Fort Benton next year, and +secure guides for the survey of the Marias Pass. He desired, also, +personally to examine the approaches to the several passes of the +mountains from the boundary southward, expecting to overtake the main +party before it reached the Bitter Root valley. Says he in the final +report:-- + + I gave my instructions to Lieutenant Donelson on the 9th instant, + inspected the train, found everything in good order, the men + cheerful, satisfied, and confident as to going on, and the means of + transportation ample, and set off towards night, having been + preceded a few hours by Mr. Lander, on the way to Cypress Mountain. + I encamped that night on the Teton, fourteen miles from Fort Benton. + Besides the party of Mr. Lander, I was accompanied by Mr. + Culbertson, special agent; Mr. Stanley, artist; Augustus Hammell, + interpreter; and three voyageurs. + + September 10. We had been joined last evening by a considerable + party of the Blackfeet, who accompanied us to-day, the principal men + being the Little Dog, the Three Bears, and the Wolf that Climbs. + Started before seven, and after traveling three hours reached a fine + spring, with excellent grass, at a celebrated landmark known by the + name of the Rotten Belly Rocks. It is a formation of sandstone, and + has the characteristic of _Les Mauvaises Terres_. Columns with + capitals, resemblances to the human figure, etc., etc., abound. + Beneath, in the coulee, passes the broad Indian trail leading to the + Piegan camp. Here was killed Rotten Belly, the Crow chief, in an + encounter between one hundred of his braves and eleven well-armed + Gros Ventres of the prairie. This celebrated chief, urged on by his + people, had previously beleaguered Fort McKenzie. He captured all + the animals of the fort,--thirty-five horses. The place was in + charge of Mr. Culbertson, and there were but nineteen men to defend + it. For a month this little force baffled all the attempts of the + Crows to get possession of the fort. Being, however, in a starving + condition, and it being apparent that it could not hold out much + longer, resort was had to stratagem. All the squaws, twenty-nine in + number, were dressed in men's clothes, and with arms in their hands + were distributed around the fort in sight of the Crows, who, thus + deceived in reference to the force defending the place, became + disheartened, drew off, and separated. Rotten Belly, with a portion, + mortified at his failure, declared that he would go north and seek + death in battle. On reaching the rocks, and seeing the Gros Ventres, + he said: "Here I will die to-day; you have brought me to this!" And, + rushing upon his enemies, he killed two, and then received his death + wound. Before his death he advised his people to be the friends of + the whites, saying it was their only chance to escape defeat and + utter ruin. + + Kept on through the afternoon, passing over a rolling country, and + reached the Marias about half past four o'clock, where we camped. + This stream at our crossing was about fifty yards wide, one foot + deep, and of somewhat rapid current, and the river valley was about + a mile wide. There was plenty of cottonwood, and we had a most + excellent camp. Spent the evening in conversing with the Indians who + accompanied us. + + September 11. We were off about seven o'clock, and after traveling + until near noon halted at a spring, where we procured a small supply + of water. Continuing on without unsaddling, in less than an hour I + was overtaken by Baptiste Champagne with an express from Lieutenant + Donelson, inclosing a brief report from Lieutenant Grover, to the + effect that he met Lieutenant Saxton near the dividing ridge, and + that they were returning together to Fort Benton. Lieutenant Grover + intimated in his brief letter that Lieutenant Saxton reported the + route could not be traversed by wagons. This changed the aspect of + affairs, and I determined to send Mr. Stanley to the Piegan camp + with the interpreter Hammell, and to return immediately with Mr. + Culbertson to Fort Benton. I determined, also, to defer the + examination of the Marias Pass to another season. There was not that + harmony in Mr. Lander's party which I deemed indispensable to + making the examination which I had intrusted to him. Accordingly I + ordered him to return with me. Stanley continued on to the Piegan + camp, and I started back on my way to Fort Benton. It made a long + march for us, for to get a good camp it was necessary to reach the + Marias. Our Indian guide made his way pretty directly to the camp: + one hour and a half we traveled in the dark. The descent to the + river was steep and difficult. We succeeded in getting into a good + camp about eight o'clock. Before starting on my return, I dispatched + an express to Lieutenant Donelson to push on with his advanced + party, but to keep the main train till my arrival. + + September 12. Started early, and, pushing rapidly, reached the fort + by three o'clock. + + Lieutenants Saxton and Grover also reached Fort Benton the same day. + The former successfully led the western subsidiary party by way of + Pend Oreille Lake to the Bitter Root valley, from which point + Lieutenant R. Macfeely, with twenty-six men and sixty animals, no + longer needed, returned to the Dalles, crossing the Bitter Roots by + the southern Nez Perces trail, a more direct but vastly more + difficult route than that of the lake. Lieutenant Richard Arnold, + with his brother, Mr. Daniel Lyman Arnold, and four men, remained + with the supplies at Fort Owen in the valley; while Lieutenant + Saxton, with seventeen men, pushed on across the mountains, and was + met by Lieutenant Grover at the summit on September 8; and, as the + governor remarks, "He felt rejoiced that the plan of our operations + had been successful and the object of the expedition accomplished, + as a party from the Atlantic and one from the Pacific, each in + search of the other, had met by appointment, after traversing + thousands of miles of unknown country, at the foot of the dividing + ridge between the oceans." + +The same evening Mr. Tinkham arrived, after an extensive and successful +trip of exploration up the Milk River to the Three Buttes, across +country to Marias River, and thence to Fort Benton. + +In consequence of Lieutenant Saxton's positive representation that it +was impracticable to take the wagons across the mountains, Governor +Stevens reluctantly decided to leave them at Fort Benton, a decision he +afterwards regretted, for after traversing the route he was satisfied +that he could have taken them at least across the main range to the +Bitter Root valley without difficulty. The whole train was now outfitted +with pack animals, and was pushed forward on the 16th under Lieutenant +Donelson. Lieutenant Saxton, with all but three of the dragoon +detachment and some discharged men, and accompanied by Mr. Culbertson, +making a party of twenty-eight all told, was sent down the Missouri by +keelboat with instructions to examine the river, especially as to the +navigability for steamboats of its upper waters, disband his party at +Fort Leavenworth or St. Louis, thence proceed to Washington, and make a +full report, in which he was to urge the necessity of holding the +proposed Blackfoot council, and of continuing the surveys of the +mountain section of the route. The governor also instructed him to +advise with Professor Bache in relation to the continuation of the +survey, and to providing for the deficiency, necessarily incurred, in +the next deficiency bill; giving him letters to the professor, and to +Judge Stephen A. Douglas, Hannibal Hamlin, Dr. Gwin, H.M. Rice, then +delegate from Minnesota, and other prominent senators and members of +Congress. Mr. Culbertson carried the governor's reports to the Indian +Department, and was charged also to urge upon that department the +importance of the council. + +Mr. Doty, with three men, was stationed at Fort Benton for the winter to +make meteorological observations, and such examinations of the country +as he could, and more especially to collect information about, and take +a census of, the Blackfeet, and improve every opportunity to impress +upon them the benefits of the proposed council and peace with the +western Indians. As already stated, Lieutenant Grover was directed to +examine the Missouri for two hundred and fifty miles below the fort, +and the country between it and Milk River, and afterwards to cross the +mountains in midwinter with dog-sledges, and study the depth of snow and +winter climate. + +Lander, with a detached party, was directed to examine along the base of +the mountains from the Marias Pass to Cadotte's Pass. As already stated, +the governor had countermanded the survey of the former by Lander in +consequence of the lack of harmony in that engineer's party. After +leaving Fort Union, Lander developed a fractious, almost insubordinate +disposition. He chafed at the presence and authority of the army +officers. At Fort Benton Governor Stevens had to curb his insubordinate +spirit with some severity, and even told him that he would shoot him +down like a dog if he disobeyed his orders. Lander, realizing that +Governor Stevens would enforce discipline at whatever cost, yielded, +professing his readiness to obey instructions, but thereafter he did so +according to the letter, not the spirit. Yet the governor, both before +and after this occurrence, gave him the best opportunities for +distinction, intrusting to him the most important side explorations, and +in the reports gave him full and generous commendation for all he +accomplished, passing lightly over his shortcomings. A bold, energetic, +high-strung man, Lander could ill brook any authority. He afterwards +conducted an independent government survey with credit, and but for his +early death would undoubtedly have achieved distinction as a soldier. +This appears to have been the only instance of lack of due +subordination, or harmony, shown during the whole expedition, and +certainly some of the governor's orders had been rigorous enough to +cause restiveness, as, for instance, requiring the scientific gentlemen +to break their own mules, to stand guard, and to walk a part of each +day's march. Remarks the governor:-- + + + "I was exceedingly gratified at this time by the spirit of the men. + Several men, who I was afraid had not strength to make the trip, and + whom I had ordered to accompany Lieutenant Saxton down the Missouri, + were so anxious to go on that they brought me a certificate from the + surgeon, Dr. Suckley, stating that in his opinion they were strong + enough for the journey, and accordingly I allowed them to go on. We + had now been together some three months, and there was great + confidence between the several members of the exploration." + +On the 20th Mr. Stanley returned from his trip to the Blackfoot camp, +having traveled on horseback three hundred and twenty miles in eleven +days. A thousand Indians accompanied him back as far as Milk River, +where the main body remained to hunt, while thirty of their chiefs, with +their families, came with him to Fort Benton to hold council with the +great white chief, who remained for that purpose. + + "On the 21st we held our talk with the Blackfeet. The chiefs and + warriors were all richly caparisoned. Their dresses of softly + prepared skins of deer, elk, or antelope were elegantly ornamented + with bead-work. These are made by their women, and some must have + occupied many months in making. The other articles of their costume + were leggings made of buffalo skins, and moccasins, also + embroidered, and a breech-cloth of blue cloth. Their arms were the + Northwest guns, and bows and arrows. On all solemn occasions, when I + met the Indians on my route, they were arrayed with the utmost care. + My duties in the field did not allow the same attention on my part, + and the Indians sometimes complained of this, saying, 'We dress up + to receive you, and why do you not wear the dress of a chief?' + + "The governor addressed them in the same strain as the Gros Ventres: + 'Your Great Father has sent me to bear a message to you and all his + other children. It is that he wishes you to live at peace with each + other and the whites. He desires that you should be under his + protection, and partake equally with the Crows and Assiniboines of + his bounty. Live in peace with all the neighboring tribes, protect + all the whites passing through your country, and the Great Father + will be your fast friend.'" + +Low Horn, the principal Piegan chief, replied favorably in behalf of the +Indians, but spoke of the difficulty of restraining their young men, who +were wild, and ambitious in their turn to be braves and chiefs. They +wanted by some act to win the favor of their young women, and bring +scalps and horses to show their prowess. To this the governor +rejoined:-- + + "'Why is it that you have two or three women to one man? Is it not + because your young men go out on war parties, and thus the flower of + your tribe is cut down? And you will go on diminishing every year + until your tribes are extinct. Is it not better that your young men + should have wives and children, and that your numbers should + increase? Won't your women prefer husbands to scalps and horses? The + Gros Ventres desire to meet you in council, and have the + difficulties between you arranged. Will you meet them in council?' + + "While in the council, Low Horn, the principal chief and speaker, + made all his replies without rising from his seat, and in a quiet, + conversational tone. After the council he assembled his braves, and + resumed the lofty bearing of a chief. He addressed them with great + fervor and eloquence, commanded them henceforth to cease sending out + war parties, and threatened them with severe punishment if they + disobeyed. It will not be uninteresting here to state that Low Horn, + the quiet spokesman of the council and the trumpet-toned chief in + the presence of his men, crossed the Missouri in 1855 with his whole + band, moved up the Judith, and camped on the Muscle Shell,--the + first man who extended the hand of welcome and friendship to the + western Indians as they crossed the mountains on their way to the + council, showing most conclusively that faith can be put in Indians; + for it must be remembered that two years intervened between my + conference with the Indians at Fort Benton in 1853 and their + reassembling in 1855 at the council appointed at that time." + +[Illustration: LOW HORN + _Piegan Chief_] + + + + + CHAPTER XX + + EXPLORING THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS + + + September 22. This morning we bade adieu to Fort Benton, and + separated from the portions of the expedition who were assigned to + duty east of the mountains. Before sunrise we saw Lieutenant Saxton + off in his keelboat, drawing eighteen inches of water, accompanied + by Mr. Culbertson, who was directed by me to report to the + department at Washington, and to urge the importance of the + Blackfoot council. Lieutenant Grover, on a smaller craft, commenced + his minute examination of the Missouri. Mr. Doty, who had won very + much upon me by his intelligence, his fidelity, his promptitude, and + energy of character, parted from me with feelings of hope and pride + at the idea that now a field was opening to him where he could be + useful to his country, and make a reputation for himself. + + In order to make a long march this day, the evening before I + dispatched my train to a point well up on the Teton, some twelve + miles from Fort Benton; and there Mr. Osgood and Mr. Stanley, who + had remained behind with me at Fort Benton, and myself, breakfasted + with the rest of our party. Dr. Suckley and Messrs. Evans and + Kendall, who had assisted me in my correspondence, were the + additional members of my party. + + The whole party moved off at nine o'clock, continuing for some + distance up the valley of the Teton, when we ascended a hill to the + prairie, and in twenty-one miles reached a coulee, where there were + springs of water sufficient for our animals. Large bands of + antelopes were seen on the road. We struck the Prairie Lake at five + P.M. Our guide, the voyageur Baptiste Champagne, took us to the + nearest point of Sun River, hoping to get in before dark, but we did + not reach camp till some time after. The view at almost any point of + the plateau between the Teton and Sun rivers is exceedingly + picturesque and suggestive. The various minor upheavals and swales + of ground, which here and there dot the surface of the country, + have connected with them some story of Indian war, wrong, or + suffering. This whole country was once occupied by the Snakes, and + in later times by some of the tribes of the Flathead nation. It + belongs now to the Blackfeet by conquest. + + September 23. Moved up the valley of the Sun River, having made an + early start this morning. The Sun has a wide, open valley, grazing + exceedingly good and soil excellent. We continued up in the + direction of the pass between the Crown Butte and the Rattlers, + prominent landmarks west of the river, and visible at a great + distance. This is a favorite resort of deer, antelope, and bighorn. + They were present to-day in very large numbers. Continuing on, we + came in view of the Bird Tail Rock, and immediately to the west, in + a line near it, is another landmark, known as the Piegan's Tear. + After making forty miles we found a camp a little off our route, in + a most delightful valley, a spring of water gushing out near by, and + the remains of an old camp of the Blackfeet at hand, furnishing us + with fuel already prepared to our hands. + + September 24. Started as usual very early this morning, and in four + miles came to Beaver Creek, a very beautiful stream of water. The + stream is now full of beaver, and is much obstructed by their dams. + The country is somewhat more broken to-day than it was yesterday; + timber comes in view on the tops of the mountains, and the scenery + becomes more grand with each mile as we proceed. Three miles beyond + Beaver Creek, a high peak, called the Goose's Neck, comes in view to + the south of us; at the southern foot of which equally as good a + road is found, though some two days longer, as the one now being + traveled by us. It is a branch of the present trail, and is usually + pursued by the Flatheads on their way to buffalo. That is called the + Flathead and our own the Blackfoot trail. + + We now crossed several mountain streams in the course of a few + miles, and in sixteen miles we struck the Dearborn River. At noon we + moved forward to the dividing ridge, which was reached at four + o'clock. To this point our road from near the Dearborn lay over + sideling hills and through timber. As we ascended the divide, a + severe pelting hail and rain storm, accompanied with high wind, + thunder, and lightning, suddenly came upon us, and did not abate + until we had reached the summit. The wind blew very violently, and + the mist resulting from the storm prevented our getting a very clear + view of the country before us. It was with great gratification that + we now left the plains of the Missouri to enter upon the country + watered by the Columbia; and it was the more especially gratifying + to me as, looking to my future duties in the Territory, I felt that + I could welcome to my future home and the scene of my future labors + the gentlemen of the party, which I did very cordially and heartily. + The scenery throughout the day's march, up to the divide, has been + picturesque in the extreme; and the latter portion of it, from the + entrance proper to the pass, our road passed between hills on every + side covered with timber, on the sides of which we were constantly + traveling; while many feet below are to be seen the small upper + tributaries of the Missouri, flowing from their source in a valley + that is very wide for so small a channel, and lined with verdure and + the foliage in yellow leaf. All this made a combination full of + interest to the eye of one who could appreciate the beauties of + nature. + + The ascent from the eastern base by the Indian trail is somewhat + steep, though in 1855 I gained the summit by a large, wide, open + ravine north of the Indian trail by a very gradual ascent, and + without much increase of distance; I was a good deal surprised to + find how small an obstacle this divide was to the movement of a + wagon-train. Had we gone on with our wagons, there would not have + been the slightest interruption, up to the entrance of the pass, to + making the usual journeys each day. + + We were twenty minutes simply descending on the western side, which + was somewhat more steep than the eastern. Continuing on, we followed + the valley of the Blackfoot River some ten miles, and camped in good + grass, with excellent water and abundance of wood. Shortly after + getting into camp it commenced raining, and continued steadily all + night, the weather being raw and cold. + +Immediately on crossing the divide, on the summit of the Rocky +Mountains, Governor Stevens issued his proclamation, declaring the civil +territorial government extended and inaugurated over the new Territory +of Washington. And then, as related in the narrative, he heartily +welcomed the members of the party to his new home. + +It was on the summit of Cadotte's Pass that this dramatic and +interesting scene occurred. As originally outlined, the main divide of +the Rocky Mountains formed the eastern boundary of Washington, but +subsequently the mountain section was joined to Idaho and Montana. + + September 25. Raining hard this morning. The animals having strayed + some distance, we were detained until eight A.M. The first fourteen + miles was through an open, wide, and beautiful prairie, after which + much of our way was through wood, where fallen timber offered + serious impediment to our rapid progress. At one o'clock Stanley and + myself, having gone rapidly ahead, had a big fire built to receive + our party as they came up. Here we lunched. By three o'clock the + clouds were breaking away, and the rain had ceased. Crossed several + hills to-day, traveling on the sides of some of them. Just before we + came out on the prairie on which we found Lieutenant Donelson and + the main train encamped, we were three hundred feet above the level + of the river. On the sides of the hill below us was growing the + mountain pine; in the valley beneath, right at the base of this + hill, was the clear, rapid stream; beyond was the foliage of the + trees growing in the bottom. The tops looked like a rich, green + carpet; further on were wide prairies, all bounded by a high ridge + of beautiful hills, altogether forming a scene of surpassing beauty. + At five P.M. we reached Lieutenant Donelson's camp, and found we had + traveled one hundred and forty-four miles since leaving Fort Benton. + + September 26. The gentlemen not required by my rapid trip to the + westward, namely, Dr. Suckley, Mr. Evans, and Mr. Kendall, now + joined the main party, and we pushed on over the Blackfoot prairie + (called, in Lewis and Clark's narrative, the Prairie of the Knobs), + and after a march of thirty-odd miles came to a beautiful camp, near + what is known in the country as the cañon. To show the condition of + the animals of the expedition, I will observe that as I passed by + the mules of the train (for I remained somewhat late in camp this + morning to confer with Lieutenant Donelson, the whole party being + several miles on the march before I started), I observed that their + rate of travel on a fast walk was from four to four and a half miles + per hour, and the advance of the train moved thirty miles that day, + getting into camp early, the animals being apparently not fatigued. + We had hardly made up our camp-fire, when seeing a black bear and + two cubs near by, we felt sure that we should have bear-meat for + supper, but although all the voyageurs were on their track, they + made their escape. + + September 27. We started about seven o'clock, and soon entered the + cañon, not, properly speaking, a cañon, for throughout its extent, + until you reach the debouch of Hell Gate, there is no special + difficulty on the trail, nor would there be excessive work to open a + good wagon-road. But a good many sharp spurs come down close to the + river, throwing the trail well back, or involving a crossing of the + stream to avail one's self of the prairies invariably found opposite + each of these spurs. Much of the country was of a very excellent + description, abounding in timber, well watered, and with soil of an + excellent quality. Emerging from the cañon, we came into a wide, + open valley, commencing half a mile before reaching the mouth of the + Blackfoot, continuing down the valley of the Hell Gate until we + enter the Hell Gate Ronde, a large, extensive tract of many miles in + circuit, and where the Hell Gate joins its waters to the Bitter + Root. Crossing the Bitter Root at a good ford, we continued up its + valley and reached a most excellent camp on the west side of the + Bitter Root, some twenty miles from Fort Owen.[4] + + September 28. Keeping up the west bank of the Bitter Root River we + crossed two streams, one being the Traveler's Rest Creek of Lewis + and Clark, and, passing through a grove of pine timber, in twelve + and one half miles crossed the Bitter Root River, just before + reaching which we met some Indians from Fort Owen. Lieutenant + Arnold, whom we met after crossing the river, on his way to + Victor's camp, returned with us. We reached Fort Owen[5] about noon, + where we met the other gentlemen of Lieutenant Arnold's party. I + found Mr. Lander in camp near Fort Owen, and learned that he arrived + the day before yesterday. + + Fort Owen is situated on the Scattering Creek of Lewis and Clark. It + was a matter of the greatest gratification, with their narrative in + hand, to pass through this valley and realize the fidelity and + graphic character of their descriptions. Lieutenant Arnold had been + jerking beef against our arrival, and making all arrangements to + enable us without delay to push on westward. I examined very + carefully into the condition of the train left by Lieutenant Saxton, + and of the provisions brought to this point, and had every reason to + congratulate myself for having assigned to him this undertaking. We + found there nearly two thousand rations, but the animals were very + few of them serviceable, yet from their appearance it was obvious + that none of them would continue unserviceable for any considerable + time, and I believed they would be entirely equal to any service + which Lieutenant Mullan's duties might require of them. + + September 29-October 3. During these days we were all occupied in + making arrangements for the movement of the parties westward, and to + establish Lieutenant Mullan's winter post. Lieutenant Donelson + arrived on the 29th with the main party, and Lieutenant Mullan on + the 30th with a delegation of chiefs from the Flathead nation. + +It will not be attempted here to give any extended account of the +explorations made by the detached parties, which is very fully done in +the final report by Governor Stevens. No less than nine passes across +the main chain, covering the range from the 49th parallel to the +Yellowstone, and four passes across the Bitter Root Range, were +examined. The most northerly of these, the Marias Pass, is now traversed +by the Great Northern Railroad, and one of the more southerly ones, the +Mullan Pass, situated some fifty miles south of Cadotte's Pass, is +crossed by the Northern Pacific Railroad. + +Mr. Lander ran a line from the Marias River via the Teton, Sun, and +Dearborn rivers to Lewis and Clark's Pass, being the one crossed by +Captain Lewis on his return trip, and situated twelve miles north of +Cadotte's Pass, and made an examination of the pass. After traveling +some distance down the valley of the Blackfoot, he left it, and went +across country to the Hell Gate River, and moved up the valley of this +stream, mistaking it for the Bitter Root. Finally, realizing his +mistake, he turned from it, and, crossing over a number of divides and +streams, he followed an Indian trail which led him to Fort Owen. In +consequence of this eccentric route, and his animals having been much +pushed, they came in exceedingly jaded, although he started with the +best train of the whole party. He made no observations bearing upon the +railroad line except for seven miles of the pass, a short distance +thence down the Blackfoot valley, and a small portion of the Hell Gate +valley. + +Lieutenant Mullan's trip to the Muscle Shell was a very extended one, +four hundred and fifteen miles in length. He returned by the pass which +now bears his name, accompanied by a delegation of the Flathead Indians. + +Mr. Tinkham, after examining the approaches to Cadotte's Pass from the +Sun River, on a more northern route than that taken by the main party, +had left it at the camp of the 26th on the Blackfoot to explore a route +westward to the Jocko and Clark's Fork, which it was expected might +prove a cut-off, and had not yet rejoined the main party. + +On September 30 and October 1 Governor Stevens had conferences with the +chiefs of the Flatheads, and broached to them his great idea of a +Blackfoot peace council. They were very doubtful at first, having too +recent and bitter experience of Blackfoot depredations. What should they +do, they asked, in case the Blackfeet came near their camp at night? In +reply the governor advised them not to attack unless it was evident they +intended to do mischief. Still they must not remain quiet and see their +men killed or horses stolen. "I would leave Lieutenant Mullan with ten +or fifteen men to protect you from the Blackfeet, but they have promised +not to disturb you, and I believe they mean to abide by it," etc. After +considering the matter for a day among themselves, the Indians promised +to attend the council. + +The governor decided to establish a post in the Bitter Root valley for +the winter, under the charge of Lieutenant Mullan, in order to determine +the winter regimen of the mountains, the depth and duration of snow, the +climate, etc. Thirteen men were left with Lieutenant Mullan, and a large +band of animals and ample supplies, and he was instructed to make +careful meteorological observations during the winter, to continue the +exploration of the mountain section, extending it to Fort Hall on the +south, and as far as Flathead Lake or Clark's Fork on the north, and to +keep a watchful and protective eye over the Flathead Indians. + +The governor directed Lieutenant Donelson to proceed with the main party +by way of Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille Lake, and assigned Lander to +duty with him for side examinations, while the governor himself took the +more direct but rugged C[oe]ur d'Alene route over the Bitter Roots. To +Dr. Suckley was intrusted the adventurous duty of descending the Bitter +Root River, Clark's Fork, Pend Oreille Lake, and the Columbia River by +canoe to the Dalles, then the frontier settlement. Lieutenant Arnold was +to proceed from Pend Oreille Lake, separating from the main party at +that point, in a direct westerly course to Colville, and thence to +explore the plains of the great bend of the Columbia, east of that +river. + +Mr. Tinkham, who came in a few days later, was directed to explore the +Marias Pass from the west side, and, crossing the mountains by it, to +proceed to Fort Benton, confer with and take letters of instruction to +Lieutenant Grover and Mr. Doty, and return to the Bitter Root valley by +one of the southerly passes. Thence he was to cross the Bitter Root +Mountains by one of the Nez Perces trails, and proceed to Walla Walla +valley and Olympia. + +Thus by the establishment of the two stations at Fort Benton and in the +Bitter Root valley, under Mr. Doty and Lieutenant Mullan, respectively, +and by the explorations of the detached parties, Governor Stevens kept +the whole mountain region under observation and solved the questions of +climate and snows. Indeed, he had the range crossed at every month in +the year by one or other of these parties. + +Continues the personal narrative:-- + + Accordingly, on the 2d Mr. Lander went down the valley to make some + examinations of Hell Gate, and on the 3d Lieutenant Donelson was + under way with the main party. I left on the 4th and overtook and + camped with the main party in my old camp of the 27th and 28th of + September. Continuing on, on the 5th we both moved down the valley, + and encamped on the Bitter Root, some three or four miles below the + mouth of Hell Gate. Here I ascertained that Mr. Lander, instead of + waiting for the arrival of Lieutenant Donelson to receive the + instructions which I had directed to be issued to him, to go down + the Bitter Root to its mouth and join the main party at the Horse + Plain, had preceded him on the main trail, and must be somewhere + near the divide between the Bitter Root and the Jocko. Accordingly + instructions were sent directing him to return in order to proceed + on the duty which had been assigned to him. + + This same day I visited Victor at his camp on the Hell Gate, three + miles above its junction with the Bitter Root, and in return was + visited by him at our camp, where we had much interesting + conversation in regard to the Indians, the character of the country, + and the passes, particularly in the winter. I determined to remain + here until Mr. Tinkham returned, who had not yet been heard from. + + October 6. Lieutenant Donelson moved off this morning on the route + of the Jocko River and Clark's Fork. Mr. Lander, who had returned to + my camp in compliance with instructions, moved down the Bitter Root + this afternoon. I sent up to Fort Owen for Lieutenant Mullan, and we + remained in camp, passing the time as pleasantly as we could, + awaiting the arrival of Mr. Tinkham. Meanwhile a huge joint of beef + was placed upon the spit, to be in readiness when the explorers + should come in, and honest Sergeant Simpson undertook to act as + cook. Bending over the fire, with huge drops of perspiration rolling + from his glowing red face, a picture was presented which Mr. Stanley + thought not unworthy a trial of his pencil, while Osgood jokingly + told Simpson he was working then for "two dollars a day and roast + beef." The meat was cooked in the nicest manner, and at half past + five o'clock we sat down to it, having as guests Mr. Tinkham and his + party, the returned "lost sheep of the house of Israel," also + Lieutenant Mullan, who had arrived in season to join in our meal. + +Having no guide, Mr. Tinkham had not succeeded in finding a direct +route, but after a circuitous trip got through to the Jocko, and, moving +back on Lieutenant Donelson's trail, joined the governor, who now gave +him the instructions to examine the Marias Pass, etc. The narrative +continues:-- + + It is extraordinary how easy of passage the mountains are in this + latitude. A favorite time of the return of the Flathead Indians from + the buffalo hunt is between Christmas and New Year's; it is only in + winters of unusual severity that they are unable to cross during any + month. + + We have to-day seen at our camp a good deal of Victor, the Flathead + chief, celebrated in the book of De Smet. He appears to be + simple-minded, but rather wanting in energy, which might, however, + be developed in an emergency. I secured a Flathead guide to go with + Mr. Tinkham through the Marias Pass, returning with him by the + Flathead Pass. He was at first reluctant to go, but afterwards + consented. In the course of the evening he came to me to decline + going, and one or two of the men wished to back out. On tracing the + cause to its source, I found they had been alarmed by some remarks + of the guide Monroe, who told them he was afraid they would fall in + with parties of Blackfoot young men. I will here remark that the + Indian agent, Dr. Lansdale, in 1856 went over the route from the + Jocko to the Big Blackfoot, sought by Mr. Tinkham in 1853. It is + much used by the upper Pend Oreille Indians in going to hunt buffalo + east of the mountains. + + October 7. At 8.30 o'clock we were on the road, the party consisting + of Mr. Stanley, Mr. Osgood, and four voyageurs, with Antoine Plante, + the half-breed guide. Mr. Lander, who had preceded us, we overtook + in twenty-seven miles, when continuing on eight miles over a rolling + country, we came to a good camp on a small stream of water; wood and + grass most excellent. The valley of the Bitter Root is generally a + wide valley, with occasional spurs running sharp down to the banks + of the stream, but having opposite to such spurs an open prairie on + the other side of the river. + + October 8. We started at 7.30 o'clock, passing over a hilly, wooded, + and at times difficult country, with several patches of prairie, one + of which, two and a half miles long and containing probably 1000 + acres, was covered with an excellent growth of grass. Here we met a + band of fifty Nez Perces Indians going to hunt. They have from 250 + to 300 horses, most of them splendid animals, in fine condition, and + with perfectly sound backs. Women and children helped to compose the + band, and babies of fifteen months old, packed in a sitting posture, + rode along without fear, grasping the reins with their tiny hands. + We met them in the entrance to a narrow place, a mile in length, + leading along the water's edge; and wishing to have a talk with + them, but unwilling to lose time in returning to the open ground, I + invited them to turn around to the first prairie, which Antoine + assured me was not more than a mile or two beyond. The prairie we + found to be well grassed, open, and wooded. We now made our halt, + and, while preparing for our talk, a band of C[oe]ur d'Alenes + joined us. They, too, were on their way to the hunt, and numbered + about sixty, men, women, and children, and had about 200 horses. We + had a long talk. I told them about the steps taken to meet in + council at Fort Benton; dwelt particularly upon the prospect of the + Blackfeet making peace with all the Indian tribes,--upon the promise + they had given that their war parties should be stopped; and told + them that at Fort Benton and at St. Mary's I had left men who would + interfere unless these war parties ceased. This intelligence was + most gratefully received. They tell me that they return from the + hunt in March, going home by the Pend Oreille route. We parted with + them at two o'clock, and at six made a good camp near the ford by + which we mean to cross to the left bank of the Bitter Root River. + Two miles from camp we met two Pend Oreilles, who turned around with + us. At the camp we found a mother and daughter who had just crossed + the river and pitched their lodge. They had eight pack and as many + spare animals, and were on their way to join the Indians we met this + morning. We gave all the Indians coffee, and the women in return + gave us some cooked kamas root. It is of a dark color, small, + between the pear and onion in shape, and of a sweet, agreeable + flavor. + + October 9. We started at eight, and crossed the ford. The ride of + to-day has been rather tedious. We left the valley to get rid of the + undergrowth of bushes, and took a trail over the side-hill, which + carried us up and down hill successively, and in some instances + through woods, occasionally obstructed by fallen timber. At noon we + halted at a creek, where we found a single Indian family drying + venison. For a little tobacco they gave us some fresh meat and + trout, which we roasted before the fire, and which made us a + substantial lunch; after which, pursuing our course, we fell upon a + stream flowing from the dividing ridge, and, continuing up it six + miles, made a camp where we found an abundance of grass. Distance + to-day nineteen miles. + + October 10. We continued in the valley about ten miles, the road + leading through wood. Larch and spruce, and inexhaustible supplies + of limestone and marble, were met with, and the latter we afterwards + found in large quantities all through the mountains. At this point + the trail forks, one keeping to the right along the stream, and the + other turning to the left, and passing over a high, overhanging + mountain spur. Our guide, Antoine, informed us that the mountain + trail was more easy for the animals, the one to the right being much + obstructed by fallen timber. After commencing the ascent we heard + the voices of our men driving the animals in the valley beneath us, + and waited until we had turned them upon the trail we had concluded + to take. We ascended the dividing ridge, and reached a camp with + good grass upon a small lake, within a mile of its top. The lake, to + which we were obliged to descend for water, is twelve hundred feet + below the camp. + + + C[OE]UR D'ALENE OR STEVENS PASS. + + October 11. The pass beneath us was made by two rivers flowing from + the dividing ridge in opposite directions, having their sources in + lakes not more than half a mile apart; the general direction of the + valleys being east and west. We estimated our camp to be two + thousand feet above the eastern base of the mountain, and two + thousand five hundred feet above the western base. The lake upon the + eastern side was about twelve hundred feet below us, and that upon + the western side about seven hundred feet higher. After pitching + camp last night a drizzling rain commenced falling, which we + supposed would turn into snow before morning. Upon awakening this + morning we were surprised to greeted with one of the loveliest days + imaginable. The sky was clear, and the air as soft and balmy as a + morn in summer. After striking camp we ascended to the highest point + of the ridge, about a mile and a half from camp. Here we made a long + halt, enjoying the magnificent view spread open to us, which, I + venture to say, can scarcely be surpassed in any country. Far + distant in the east the peaks of the Rocky Mountains loomed up into + view, stretched out to a great length, while the Flathead Lake and + the valley thence to the Blackfoot Pass were plainly visible. Nearly + the entire range of the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mountains, clothed with + evergreen forests, with here and there an open summit covered with + grass; numerous valleys intersecting the country for miles around; + courses of many streams marked by the ascending fog,--all conduced + to render the view fascinating in the greatest degree to the + beholder. The mountains were covered with luxuriant, coarse grass. + Seated on this point, Mr. Stanley was enabled to transfer this + beautiful panorama to his sketch-book. Descending the peak to the + general level of the ridge, we continued on for six miles, when the + descent commenced, and in less than three miles we passed down a + very steep descent and gained the base of the mountains, which we + estimated rose thirty-five hundred feet above us. This brought us + into a valley filled with gigantic cedars. The larch, spruce, and + vine-maple were found in to-day's march in large quantities, the + latter giving a pleasing variety to the forest growth. About four + o'clock we encamped upon the bank of a stream, which here grows much + wider. A C[oe]ur d'Alene accompanied us to this point from the + eastern base of the dividing ridge, and at to-night's encampment we + found a C[oe]ur d'Alene and his wife on their way to hunt. + + October 12. The scarcity of grass last night caused our animals to + wander, and three of them were found at the base of the mountains + six miles back. It was not until half past ten o'clock that our men + had them all collected, and we were prepared to move. We rode until + half past three, when we halted at a beautiful camp, although the + day's march had been but twelve miles. Learning from Antoine that + the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mission was only eleven miles beyond, I + determined on going in to-night. Antoine and I accordingly mounted, + and rode to the Mission in an hour and three quarters. + + + C[OE]UR D'ALENE MISSION. + + The Mission is beautifully located upon a hill overlooking extensive + prairies stretching to the east and west towards the C[oe]ur d'Alene + Mountains and the Columbia River. About a hundred acres of the + eastern prairie adjoining the Mission are inclosed and under + cultivation, furnishing employment to thirty or forty Indians, men, + women, and children. I observed two ploughing, which they executed + skillfully; others were sowing wheat, and others digging potatoes. + Père Gazzoli received me with the most pleasing hospitality. + Associated with him are Père Ravalli, now absent to procure + supplies, and Brothers Charles Huet and Maginn. Towards evening I + witnessed the burial of an Indian chief. The funeral ceremonies were + conducted after the Catholic form, and I was struck with the + harmonious voices of the Indian choristers, and with their solemn + observance of the ceremonies. + + The Mission is composed of buildings inclosing a square. Some of + them are quite old, but the barn is large and new. The church stands + a little distance from the rest, and does much credit to those who + erected it. It is constructed upon a plan designed by Père Ravalli, + and is of the Roman demi-style of architecture. Pulleys and ropes + were the only mechanical aids in the construction. The interior is + prettily arranged. The altar is supported by two massive timbers of + pine which are four feet in diameter. The priests live in a + self-denying manner, and the good effect of their influence over the + Indians around them is plainly manifest. There is quite a village of + Indians near the Mission. They have some half dozen log-houses, but + most of them live in lodges. + + October 13. While awaiting the arrival of the train, I was enabled + more particularly to observe the manner in which the affairs of the + Mission are conducted. Brother Charles has charge of the buildings, + and attends to the indoor work, cooks, makes butter and cheese, + issues provisions, and pays the Indians for their work, which + payment is made in tickets bearing a certain value, "good for so + many potatoes, or so much wheat," etc. By this arrangement the + Indians are able to procure their subsistence in the summer by + hunting and fishing, and have tickets in store for living during the + winter. They are well contented, and I was pleased to observe habits + of industry growing upon them. In the barn we saw their operations + of threshing: four boys rode as many mules abreast in a circle, + being followed by two girls with flails, who appeared to be + perfectly at home in their business. One half of the barn is + reserved for their crops, while the other is arranged for cattle. + Their stock at present consists of twenty cows, eight pairs of oxen, + and ninety pigs, which are driven to pasture upon the prairie by + Indian boys daily. I noticed an Indian woman milking, and was + surprised to see her use both hands, something rarely seen amongst + the Indians. We afterwards visited the field; a large fire was + burning, and around it sat Indians roasting and eating potatoes. + There appeared to be a great scarcity of proper implements, and in + digging potatoes many had nothing better than sharpened sticks. The + train arrived about one o'clock, and Père Gazzoli allowed us to turn + our animals into the inclosure. + + I have heard of an ingenious method of hunting deer which is + practiced by the Indians. When the C[oe]ur d'Alenes, Pend Oreilles, + Spokanes, and Nez Perces meet together to fish and hunt, they form a + large circle, and upon the trees, around its circumference, attach + pieces of cloth made to resemble the human figure as much as + possible. Then the hunters enter the area and start up the deer. + Each cloth having the effect of a man, the deer, being afraid to + pass them, are kept within the circle and easily killed. Last year + the Pend Oreilles killed eight hundred in one hunt; the C[oe]ur + d'Alenes, more than four hundred. + + When the Indians returned from the field I addressed them as + follows:-- + + "I am glad to see you and find that you are under such good + direction. I have come four times as far as you go to hunt + buffalo, and have come with directions from the Great Father to + see you, to talk to you, and do all I can for your welfare. I see + cultivated fields, a church, houses, cattle, and the fruits of the + earth, the work of your own hands. The Great Father will be + delighted to hear this, and will certainly assist you. Go on, and + every family will have a house and a patch of ground, and every + one will be well clothed. I have had talks with the Blackfeet, who + promise to make peace with all the Indian tribes. Listen to the + good Father and to the good brothers, who labor for your good." + + October 15. We started at eight o'clock, after having given Brother + Charles as many lariats for raising the timbers of the church as we + could spare, and made eighteen miles and a quarter, meeting on the + way some forty Indians, C[oe]ur d'Alenes, Nez Perces, and Spokanes, + on their way to buffalo. We camped to-day in a beautiful prairie, + called the Wolf's Lodge, with good grass. Here we found nearly a + hundred Spokanes, with some three hundred horses, on their way to + the hunt. Towards sundown this evening I was greatly interested in + observing the Spokanes at their devotions. A bell rang, and the + whole band gathered in and around a large lodge for evening prayers. + There was something solemn and pathetic in the evening psalm + resounding through the forests around us. This shows what good + results can flow from the labors of devoted missionaries, for the + Spokanes have had no religious instruction for the last five years. + As I went down the river and met band after band of the Spokanes, I + invariably found the same regard for religious services. + + Afterwards they came around to my camp-fire, and we had a talk. + Garry, they say, is at his farm, four miles from the Spokane House. + + October 16. We started at eight o'clock, our route being through an + open wooded prairie. Soon after leaving camp the C[oe]ur d'Alene + Lake came in view to the south of us, and eleven miles from camp we + struck it near its western extremity. It is a beautiful sheet of + water, surrounded by picturesque hills, mostly covered with wood. + Its shape is irregular, unlike that given it upon the maps. Its + waters are received from the C[oe]ur d'Alene River, which runs + through it. Below the lake the river is not easily navigable, there + being many rapids, and in numerous places it widens greatly, and + runs sluggishly through a shallow channel. Above the lake I am + informed by the missionaries that it is navigable nearly to the + Mission. Leaving the lake, we followed the river on its northern + bank, passing a camp of C[oe]ur d'Alenes, occupied with their trout + fisheries. Here we witnessed a touching sight, a daughter + administering to her dying father. Still keeping through open woods + on a most excellent road, in two miles farther we came to the + C[oe]ur d'Alene prairie, a beautiful tract of land containing + several hundred square miles. After crossing the prairie, a distance + of some eighteen miles, we continued on and encamped at a spring + with sparse grass. Had we gone two miles farther, we should have + found an excellent camp on the river, and the next morning some of + our animals were found in this very spot. The horses of the Spokanes + roam over this prairie in herds of from twelve to twenty. Towards + the latter portion of the march the river runs over a rocky bed of + trap. + + October 17. Leaving camp, Antoine, Osgood, Stanley, and myself + turned from the trail to visit the falls of the C[oe]ur d'Alene + River, while Lavatte took the train ahead on the trail to the + Spokane House. There are two principal falls, one of twenty feet and + the other of from ten to twelve feet, in the latter there being a + perpendicular fall of seven or eight feet; for a quarter of a mile + the descent is rapid, over a rough bed of rocks, and in this + distance we estimated a fall of ninety or one hundred feet. One mile + below this point we came to the ferry crossed by Saxton. Here there + is a small Indian village, and the inhabitants were engaged in + catching salmon. I noticed one large woman who seemed to pride + herself upon her person, which she took pains to set off in the most + becoming manner by means of a blanket wrapped around her. The road + to the Spokane House was over a sandy prairie, interspersed with + groves of pine. Crossing a dividing ridge with high and steep banks, + we came into the prairie in which the Spokane House is situated, in + which were two Spokane villages. We inquired for Garry, and I sent + him a request that he would visit me at my camp. The train we found + a mile below the junction, across the Spokane. The Indians + indicating a good camp some distance beyond, we moved on eight and a + half miles to it, which we reached half an hour before sundown. Here + there was good grass and plenty of water, and we soon made up a + large campfire. After arranging matters in camp, I observed about + nightfall a fire down the river, and, strolling down to the place, + came upon a little camp of Spokane Indians, and found them engaged + in religious services, which I was glad of an opportunity to + witness. There were three or four men, the same number of women, and + half a dozen children. Their exercises were, 1, address; 2, Lord's + prayer; 3, Psalms; 4, benediction, and were conducted with great + solemnity. + + In the evening Garry visited us with some of his tribe. They gave + rumors of a large party having arrived opposite Colville, also of a + small party having gone from Walla Walla to Colville. + + Garry was educated by the Hudson Bay Company at Red River, where he + lived four years with six other Indians from this vicinity, all of + whom are now dead. He speaks English and French well, and we have + had a long conversation this evening; but he is not frank, and I do + not understand him. He has an extensive field, where he raises a + large quantity of wheat. To-morrow he is going to Colville to get + some of it ground. Garry promises to send me to-morrow the Indian + who has just arrived from the Yakima country, and who is posted up + concerning the news of that place. + + October 18. A Spokane breakfasted with us this morning, and we + started at 8.30 o'clock. After riding till ten o'clock we were + joined by the old Indian referred to yesterday, and Antoine's + services were immediately put into requisition to obtain + information. At twelve o'clock we lunched. The old man stated that a + large party reached the bank of the river opposite Colville + yesterday, and that they would cross to-day. I was satisfied from + his accounts that the party was McClellan's, and accordingly + determined on going to Colville to-night. Antoine has horses half + way. We rested until two o'clock and then set out, Antoine and + myself pushing ahead of the train. We met Antoine's family encamped + on a fine prairie, with whom Antoine remained, sending his + brother-in-law with us as a guide. At 4.15 we reached the ferry, + where we were detained fifteen minutes. At 4.45 we met Jack + (Lieutenant Macfeely's guide), who informed me that Macfeely reached + Walla Walla three weeks ago, being twenty-two days coming from St. + Mary's. He lost twenty animals, and was detained two days in an + unsuccessful search for a man who had strayed from the trail. The + road was bad, and they got off the trail, having struck too high up. + Jack told us it was twenty-eight miles to Colville, and that we + could not reach there to-night, but, being determined to do so, we + pushed on and reached Brown's at 5.45, who informed us that the + distance to Colville was eighteen miles. After partaking of some + bread and milk, we resumed the road with the same animals, dashing + off at full speed, going eight or nine miles an hour most of the + way, and reached Colville at nine o'clock. Mr. McDonald, the trader + in charge, gave me a most hospitable reception, and addressed a note + to McClellan, who had just gone to his camp near by, informing him + of my arrival. McClellan came up immediately, and, though I was + fairly worn out with the severeness of the ride, we sat up till one + o'clock. At eleven we sat down to a nice supper, prepared by Mrs. + McDonald, and regaled ourselves with steaks cooked in buffalo fat, + giving them the flavor of buffalo meat. I retired exhausted with the + fatigues of the day. + + + CAPTAIN MCCLELLAN'S EXPLORATIONS. + +It took Captain McClellan a month to fit out his train after he reached +Vancouver, on the lower Columbia, so that he did not start on his survey +until the last of July. Crossing the Cascade Range by a pass south of +Mount Adams, he proceeded northward over the plains on the eastern side +of the range to the Yakima valley, moving one hundred and eighty miles +in thirty days, and remained there a month longer, during which Mr. +Gibbs examined the lower and Lieutenant Duncan the upper valley. Captain +McClellan himself, leaving his party in camp, made a hasty examination +of the Snoqualmie Pass, at the head of the main Yakima. Then he crossed +over a dividing ridge to the Columbia River, and continued up its right +or western bank to the Okinakane (Okanogan) River, a distance of ninety +miles, spent several days in exploring that and neighboring streams, +then ascended the Okinakane (Okanogan) River some fifty miles to Lake +Osoyoos, and moved eastward from this point eighty-two miles to the +Columbia, opposite Colville, and crossed on the 18th, the very day of +Governor Stevens's arrival at the same point. + +McClellan, as appears from his report, took a decidedly unfavorable view +of the country, and of a railroad route across the Cascades. He declared +in substance that the Columbia River Pass was the only one worth +considering, that there was no pass whatever north of it except the +Snoqualmie Pass, and gave it as his firm and settled opinion that the +snow in winter was from twenty to twenty-five feet deep in that pass. + +His examination of the pass was a very hasty and cursory one, with no +other instruments than a compass and a barometer, and extended only +three miles across the summit. His only information as to the depth of +winter snow was the reports of Indians, and the marks of snow on the +trees, or what he took to be such. Thus the most important point, the +real problem of the field of exploration intrusted to him, namely, the +existence and character of the Cascade passes, he failed to determine. +He failed utterly to respond to Governor Stevens's earnest and manly +exhortation, "We must not be frightened with long tunnels, or enormous +snows, but set ourselves to work to overcome them." He manifested the +same dilatoriness in preparation and moving, the same timidity in +action, the same magnifying of difficulties, that later marked and +ruined his career as an army commander. + +Two railroads now cross the range which he examined,--the Northern +Pacific, by a pass just south of the Snoqualmie and north of the +Nahchess, the very place of which McClellan reported that "there +certainly is none between this (the Snoqualmie) and the Nahchess Pass;" +and the Great Northern, by a pass at the head of the Wenachee or +Pisquouse River, of which stream he declared, "It appears certain that +there can be no pass at its head for a road." The snows he so much +exaggerated have proved no obstacle, and in fact have actually caused +less trouble and obstruction in these passes than in the Columbia Pass +itself.[6] + +FOOTNOTES: + + [4] The town of Missoula is seated at the entrance to Hell Gate. The + Bitter Root River is now known as the Missoula, the name Bitter + Root being transferred to a branch of Clark's Fork. The Bitter + Root or St. Mary valley is likewise now known as the Missoula + valley. + + [5] Fort Owen occupied the site of the Flathead village and Catholic + mission of St. Mary, which had been recently abandoned in + consequence of the incessant forays of the Blackfeet. + + [6] One of the lines of the Northern Pacific Railroad now crosses + the C[oe]ur d'Alene Pass on Governor Stevens's route, to the + vicinity of the Mission, running thence south of the C[oe]ur + d'Alene Lake to Spokane. + + + + + CHAPTER XXI + + UPPER COLUMBIA TO PUGET SOUND + + +Upon learning the results of McClellan's explorations, Governor Stevens +proposed to send him up the Yakima again to carry the survey clear +across the Cascades to Puget Sound, and at first that officer seemed +willing to undertake the duty. After spending two days at Colville the +governor, accompanied by McClellan and his party, moved south in three +marches to a camp six miles south of the Spokane River, named Camp +Washington, where on October 28 arrived Lieutenant Donelson with the +main party. During these days there was a fall of snow covering the +ground, which, however, soon melted and disappeared. But it was enough +to dismay McClellan. He now demurred to crossing the Cascades, claiming +it to be impracticable so late in the fall. It was indeed late; snow had +already fallen on the plains, and presumably would be deeper in the +mountains; and the Cascades were McClellan's own particular field, of +which he ought to be the best judge. The governor therefore reluctantly, +and rather against his better judgment, relinquished the plan of +crossing the Snoqualmie Pass that fall, and gave orders for both parties +to move by way of Walla Walla and the Dalles to Vancouver, and thence to +Olympia, at the head of Puget Sound. + + "Had I possessed at Camp Washington," says the governor, + "information which I gained in six days afterwards at Walla Walla, I + should have pushed the party over the Cascades in the present + condition of the animals; but Captain McClellan was entitled to + weight in his judgment of the route, it being upon the special field + of his examination." + +The incidents of the march to Camp Washington are thus narrated:-- + + During our stay at Colville, we visited McDonald's camp. Near it + there is a mission, under the charge of Père Lewis, whom we visited. + The Indians about the mission are well disposed and religious. As we + returned to the fort, Mr. Stanley was just going into camp, having + made a march of thirty-five miles. In the evening we listened to the + thrilling stories and exciting legends of McDonald, with which his + memory seems to be well stored. He says intelligence had reached him + through the Blackfeet of the coming of my party; that the Blackfeet + gave most singular accounts of everything connected with us. For + instance, they said that our horses had claws like the grizzly bear; + they climbed up the steep rocks and held on by their claws; that + their necks were like the new moon; and that their neighing was like + the sound of distant thunder. McDonald has, of course, given a free + translation of the reports made by Indians. We listened to his + accounts of his own thrilling adventures of his mountain life, and a + description of an encounter with a party of Blackfeet is well worth + relating. At the head of a party of three or four men he was met by + a band of these Indians, who showed evidences of hostility. By signs + he requested the chief of the Blackfeet to advance and meet him, + both being unarmed. When the chief assented, and met him half way + between the two parties, McDonald caught him by the hair of the + head, and, holding him firmly, exacted from the remaining Indians + promises to give up their arms, which they accordingly did, and + passed on peaceably. He has lived here many years, and is an + upright, intelligent, manly, and energetic man. + + October 21. We moved off. McDonald presented us with a keg filled + with cognac to cheer the hearts of the members of all the parties, + and obliged us also to take a supply of port wine. We passed his + gristmill on Mill River, the only one in the neighborhood. A march + of twelve miles brought us into camp, McDonald accompanying us. We + had a glorious supper of smoking steaks and hot cakes, and the + stories added to the relish with which it was eaten. McDonald again + charmed us with a recital of his thrilling adventures. + + October 22. We got off early, and at Brown's we stopped to purchase + horses, and succeeded in obtaining two, one for McClellan and the + other for myself. McDonald accompanied me some distance farther, + when, bidding each other adieu, I pushed ahead, and, reaching a + small stream, I found that McClellan's party had taken the left + bank, and that the captain had gone on to join them. We took the + right, and thus avoided a bad crossing in which McClellan's party + became involved. We encamped upon the borders of the stream. Our + train is larger and more heavily laden than heretofore, in + consequence of the increased supplies. To-day we have thirteen + packs. At night we killed a cow purchased of Brown, and we still + have an ox in reserve, to be killed when we meet Donelson. The air + is cool and fresh, and our appetites keen. I may say here that two + pounds of beef and half a pound of flour per man are not too much + for a day's allowance. + + October 23. Snow is falling this morning, and it has cleaned our + beef admirably. We journeyed but ten miles, encamping near where we + had seen Antoine's family in going to Colville. The snow ceased + falling about noon, with five inches upon the ground. It is light, + and we think it will disappear in a few days. The Indians inform me + that we shall not probably find it south of the C[oe]ur d'Alene, and + from their statements it would seem that this river is a dividing + line as regards climate. + + October 24. We started this morning with the intention of reaching + the appointed place of meeting to-night. McClellan, Minter, Osgood, + Stanley, and myself pushed ahead, and at noon we reached the old + Chemakane Mission, so called from a spring of that name near by. The + mission was occupied by Messrs. Walker and Eells, but in 1849, in + consequence of the Cuyuse difficulties, it was abandoned. These + gentlemen labored ardently for the good of the Indians. Walker was a + good farmer and taught them agriculture, and by them his name is now + mentioned with great respect. The house occupied by Walker is still + standing, but Eells's has been burned down. The site of the mission + is five miles from the Spokane River, in an extensive open valley, + well watered and very rich. Here we met Garry and two hundred + Spokanes. Garry has forwarded the letter to Donelson, but has + received no intelligence of his arrival in the C[oe]ur d'Alene + plain. We therefore concluded to encamp here, and to-morrow + McClellan and myself are to accompany Garry to the Spokane House. + The Colville or Slawntebus and Chemakane valleys have a productive + soil, and are from one to three miles wide, and bordered by low + hills, covered with larch, pine, and spruce, and having also a + productive soil. In the evening the Indians clustered around our + fire, and manifested much pleasure in our treatment of them. I have + now seen a great deal of Garry, and am much pleased with him. + Beneath a quiet exterior he shows himself to be a man of judgment, + forecast, and great reliability, and I could see in my interview + with his band the ascendency he possesses over them. + + In the Colville valley there is a line of settlements twenty-eight + miles long. The settlers are persons formerly connected with the + Hudson Bay Company, and they are anxious to become naturalized, and + have the lands they now occupy transferred to themselves. I informed + them that I could only express my hopes that their case would be met + by the passage of a special act. They are extensive farmers, and + raise a great deal of wheat. + + October 25. Having left the necessary directions for moving camp to + the place of meeting with Donelson, Captain McClellan and myself + accompanied Garry to the Spokane House. The road was slippery in + consequence of the melting of the snow, and we were obliged + frequently to dismount. We found Garry's family in a comfortable + lodge, and he informed us that he always had on hand flour, sugar, + and coffee, with which to make his friends comfortable. We then went + to our new camp south of the Spokane, which had been established + whilst we were visiting Garry's place. From the Chemakane Mission + the train left the river, and, passing through a rolling country + covered with open pine woods, in five miles reached the Spokane, and + crossing it by a good and winding ford, ascended the plain, and in + six miles, the first two of which was through open pine, reached + Camp Washington. + + October 26, 27, 28, and 29. During these days I was occupied at our + camp (Camp Washington) in making the arrangements for moving + westward. Lieutenant Donelson arrived on the 28th, and we all sat + down to a fine supper prepared for the occasion. All the members of + the exploration were in fine spirits; our table was spread under a + canopy, and upon it a great variety of dishes appeared, roasted + beef, bouillon, steaks, and abundance of hot bread, coffee, sugar, + and our friend McDonald's good cheer. But the best dish was a beef's + head cooked by friend Minter in Texas fashion. It was placed in a + hole in the ground on a layer of hot coals, with moss and leaves + around it to protect it from the dirt, and then covered up. There it + remained for some five or six hours, when, removing it, the skin + came off without difficulty, and it presented a very tempting dish, + and was enjoyed by every member of the party. + +Having given the necessary instructions to McClellan and Donelson to +proceed with their parties to the Walla Walla, thence to the Dalles, +Vancouver, and Olympia, making careful survey of the country on the +route, the governor, with his small party, pushed on ahead, having Garry +and his brother as guides. Starting late in the afternoon of the 29th, +they journeyed thirteen miles over undulating hills and a high +table-land, and encamped upon a small stream called Se-cule-eel-qua, +with fine grass and fertile soil. + + October 30. We commenced to move at sunrise, and at three P.M. + encamped on a small lake twenty-two miles from our place of + departure in the morning. In view of this camp were the graves of a + number of Spokane Indians, indicated by mounds of stones, designed + to protect the bodies from the wolves, and by poles supported in an + upright position by the stones. It was the usage until within a few + years past, for the Spokanes and other northern tribes towards the + Pacific to slay the horses and cattle of the deceased at his grave, + and also to sacrifice his other property, but they are gradually + relinquishing this pernicious practice, under the influence of the + counsels and example of the white man. + + October 31. We continued to follow the general course of the stream + upon whose banks we were encamped, and after riding eight miles we + crossed another small stream, rising in a chain of small lakes south + of our last camp. These lakes abound in wild fowl, which at this + season are very plentiful, and they are therefore much resorted to + by the Spokanes and other Indians. We saw in one of these lakes, + surrounded by ducks and geese, a pair of white swans, which remained + to challenge our admiration after their companions had been + frightened away by our approach. + + Garry assures us that there is a remarkable lake called + En-chush-chesh-she-luxum, or Never Freezing Water, about thirty + miles to the east of this place. It is much larger than any of the + lakes just mentioned, and so completely surrounded by high and + precipitous rocks that it is impossible to descend to the water. It + is said never to freeze, even in the most severe winter. The Indians + believe that it is inhabited by buffalo, elk, deer, and all other + kinds of game, which, they say, may be seen in the clear, + transparent element. He also narrates the story of a superstition + respecting a point of painted rock in Pend Oreille Lake, situated + near the place now occupied by Michal Ogden. The Indians, he says, + do not venture to pass this point, fearing that the Great Spirit + may, as related in the legends, create a commotion in the water and + cause them to be swallowed up in the waves. The painted rocks are + very high, and bear effigies of men and beasts and other characters, + made, as the Indians believe, by a race of men who preceded them as + inhabitants of the land. + + Our route to-day has been through a rocky and broken country, and + after a march of thirty-two miles we encamped on a small stream + called En-cha-rae-nae, flowing from the lake where we last halted, + near a number of natural mounds. + + November 1. Our course lay down the valley of the En-cha-rae-nae, a + rugged way, beset with deep clefts in the volcanic rocks. We crossed + the Pelouse River near the mouth of the former, and near the stream + flowing from the never freezing lake, and twelve miles from the + mouth of the Pelouse. Four miles from our place of crossing the + Pelouse runs through a deep cañon, surrounded by isolated volcanic + buttes, to its junction with Snake River. At two P.M. we arrived at + the mouth of the Pelouse, and, crossing Snake River, we encamped on + its southern bank, several Pelouse Indians accompanying us, and + among them a chief from a band but a few miles distant from our + camp, Wi-ti-my-hoy-she. He exhibited a medal of Thomas Jefferson, + dated 1801, given to his grandfather, as he alleges, by Lewis and + Clark. + + November 2. I have referred in an early stage of this narrative to + the condition of my health, and will state that not a day was I on + the road from Fort Benton to this point that I did not suffer much. + The day I made my long ride to Colville, I was so feeble and + exhausted that, on making my noon halt after moving fifteen miles, I + was obliged to have my bed spread in order to rest; but the idea of + meeting gentlemen so soon, from whom I had been so long separated, + enabled me to bear the fatigue of my afternoon fifty miles' ride to + Colville. Although in great suffering, I determined to move with + Garry from Snake River to Fort Walla Walla to-day, leaving Mr. + Stanley to come on with my party and train in two days. I desired to + save a day in order to collect information at Walla Walla, and to + visit the Walla Walla valley. Accordingly we set off. It required me + three hours to get my courage up to the sticking-point, so that I + could bear the pain growing out of traveling at a gait faster than a + walk; but, getting warm in the saddle, we increased our speed, and + on reaching the Touchet we dismounted for a slight halt. Pushing on + a little before two o'clock, we reached Fort Walla Walla at sundown, + moving the last twenty-five miles at the rate of about eight miles + an hour, and were there hospitably received by Mr. Pembrum, the + factor in charge, and after a little conversation I refreshed myself + with reading some late papers. On the road my time was much occupied + with studying the deportment of the mountain ranges in view, and all + the peculiarities of the country about me, to judge something of its + winter climate and the probable fall of snow; and on reaching Walla + Walla I became satisfied from these things, and especially from a + view of the highest spur of the Blue Mountains in sight, that the + snows of the Cascades could not be so formidable as they had been + represented. I accordingly determined to search thoroughly into this + matter at Walla Walla. + + November 3-8. I remained in the Walla Walla country during these + days, spending two days up the valley and the remainder at the fort. + Mr. Stanley, with the train, reached the fort on the 3d, and, + + November 4, we started upon the trip through the valley, riding upon + our horses. Arriving at the Hudson Bay farm, we exchanged them for + fresh ones. This farm is eighteen miles from Walla Walla, and is a + fine tract of land, well adapted to grazing or cultivation. It is + naturally bounded by streams, and is equivalent to a mile square. + There is the richest grass here that we have seen since leaving St. + Mary's. From this we went to McBane's house, a retired factor of the + company, from whence we had a fine view of the southern portion of + the valley, which is watered by many tributaries from the Blue + Mountains. Thirty miles from Walla Walla, and near McBane's, lives + Father Chirouse, a missionary of the Catholic order, who with two + laymen exercises his influence among the surrounding tribes. + + November 5. We remained with Mr. McBane overnight, and returned to + the fort to-day by way of the Whitman Mission, now occupied by + Bumford and Brooke. They were harvesting, and I saw as fine potatoes + as ever I beheld, many weighing two pounds, and one five and a half. + Their carrots and beets, too, were of extraordinary size. Mr. + Whitman must have done a great deal of good for the Indians. His + mission was situated upon a fine tract of land, and he had erected a + saw and grist mill. From Bumford's to the mouth of the Touchet are + many farms, mostly occupied by the retired employees of the Hudson + Bay Company. On our return we met Pu-pu-mox-mox, the Walla Walla + chief, known and respected far and wide. He possesses not so much + intelligence and energy as Garry, but he has some gifts of which the + latter is deprived. He is of dignified manner, and well qualified to + manage men. He owns over two thousand horses, besides many cattle, + and has a farm near that of the Hudson Bay Company. On the + occurrence of the Cuyuse war, he was invited to join them, but + steadily refused. After their destruction of the mission, he was + asked to share the spoils, and again refused. They then taunted him + with being afraid of the whites, to which he replied: "I am not + afraid of the whites, nor am I afraid of the Cuyuses. I defy your + whole band. I will plant my three lodges on the border of my own + territory at the mouth of the Touchet, and there I will meet you if + you dare to attack me." He accordingly moved his lodges to this + point, and remained there three or four weeks. Stanley was on his + way from Walker and Eells's Mission to Whitman's Mission, and indeed + was actually within three miles of the latter, when he heard of the + terrible tragedy which had been enacted there, and the information + was brought to him by an Indian of Pu-pu-mox-mox's band. + Pu-pu-mox-mox has saved up a large amount of money (probably as much + as $5000); still he is generous, and frequently gives an ox and + other articles of value to the neighbors. Some of his people having + made a contract to ferry the emigrants across the river, who crossed + the Cascades this year, and then having refused to execute it, he + compelled them to carry it out faithfully, and, mounting his horse, + he thrashed them until they complied. He has the air of a + substantial farmer. + +On the 6th Lieutenant Donelson and on the 7th Captain McClellan reached +old Fort Walla Walla with the main parties. Governor Stevens was now +satisfied, both from his own observations and from information furnished +by Pembrum, Pu-pu-mox-mox, and others, among them a voyageur who had +actually crossed the Cascades in the month of December, that it was not +yet too late to send a party across these mountains. Accordingly he +directed Mr. Lander to proceed up the Yakima and over the Nahchess Pass +in order to run the line to the Sound. + +The governor had a remarkable faculty for getting information from +people of every kind and condition, Hudson Bay Company men, settlers, +voyageurs, and Indians, and always took great pains to learn all they +could impart, while his keen and sound judgment enabled him to +distinguish the chaff from the wheat in their reports. + +Having provided fresh animals for Mr. Lander, given him his written +instructions, and in conversation urged upon him the entire feasibility +of the survey intrusted to him, the governor, with Mr. Stanley, on +November 8 started down the Columbia in a canoe managed by voyageurs, +and reached the Dalles on the 12th. Says the governor:-- + + "We took with us two days' provisions, and were four days in + reaching the Dalles, having been detained nearly two days in camp by + a high wind which blew up the river, but we eked out our scanty + stores by the salmon generously furnished us by the Indian bands + near us. At the principal rapids I got out and observed the + movements of the canoe through them, and, from the best examination + which I was able to make, I became at once convinced that the river + was probably navigable for steamers. I remained at the Dalles on the + 13th to make arrangements for the moving forward of the parties and + for herding the animals, looking to a resumption of the survey, + where I was the guest of Major Rains, and had a most pleasant time, + meeting old acquaintances and making new ones with the gentlemen of + the post. On the 14th I reached the Cascades, where I passed the + night. Here I met several gentlemen--men who had crossed the plains, + and who had made farms in several States and in Oregon or + Washington--who had carefully examined the Yakima country for new + locations, and who impressed me with the importance of it as an + agricultural and grazing country. November 15 we went down the river + in a canoe, and on the 16th reached Vancouver, where I remained the + 17th, 18th, and 19th as the guest of Colonel Bonneville, and where I + also became acquainted with the officers of the Hudson Bay Company. + + "Leaving Vancouver on the 20th, I reached Olympia on the 25th, where + for the first time I saw the waters of Puget Sound. No special + incident worthy of remark occurred on the journey, except that I was + four days going up the Cowlitz in drenching rains, and two nights + had the pleasure of camping out. I will now advise voyageurs in the + interior, when they get suddenly into the rains west of the + Cascades, to take off their buckskin underclothing. I neglected to + do this, and among the many agreeabilities of this trip up the + Cowlitz was to have the underclothing of buckskin wet entirely + through. I was enabled to examine the country pretty carefully all + the way to Olympia, and had with me a very intelligent man, who + could point out localities and inform me about the country not in + view of the road; and I saw that not only was it entirely + practicable for a railroad line to the Sound, but that the work was + light, and the material for construction of all kinds entirely + inexhaustible. + + "After considerable delays at Vancouver, the gentlemen of the + parties under Captain McClellan and Lieutenant Donelson arrived at + Olympia for office duty, being preceded a few days by Mr. Lander, + who for reasons not conclusive to my mind did not persevere in the + examination of the Nahchess Pass. One of his reasons for not + continuing his examination was that it was not on the railroad line, + which did not apply, because that fact was well known to him + previously, having been announced to him positively in my written + instructions. I did not censure Mr. Lander for not continuing on + this duty, as I know the perplexity of mind in which one is placed + by the contradictory character of the information gained; but I + resolved to get my line to the Sound, and accordingly dispatched an + express to the Walla Walla, directing Mr. Tinkham on his arrival at + that point to cross to Puget Sound by the Snoqualmie Pass, my object + being twofold,--to get at some facts which would decisively settle + the question of the depth of snow, in regard to which Captain + McClellan and myself differed, as well as really to connect our work + with the Sound itself." + +Thus Lander purposely balked the task intrusted to him, and threw away +another fine opportunity of achieving credit for himself. + +Upon McClellan's arrival at Olympia, Governor Stevens directed him to +take up from the Sound the reconnoissance for a railroad line to the +Snoqualmie Pass, connecting with his examination on the eastern side, +which had extended three miles across the summit. But again McClellan +failed to accomplish the task, deterred as usual by the reports of +Indians, and magnified difficulties. Leaving Olympia December 23, with +Mr Minter, civil engineer, and four men, he spent five days at +Steilacoom in a vain attempt to procure horses and guides for the +Snoqualmie Falls, intending to proceed thence on snowshoes. Then he went +by canoe down the Sound and up the Snohomish River to the falls, and +pushed forward on foot four miles to the prairie just above the falls. + + "I found," he reports, "the prairie to be about as represented,--in + places bare, but in others with three or four inches of snow. + Leaving my companions at the Indian bivouac to make the best + preparations they could for passing the night (for we had neither + tent, blanket, nor overcoat), I went forward on the trail with two + Indians. + + "As soon as we left the prairie the ground became entirely covered + with snow; it soon became a foot deep in the shallowest spots, and + was constantly increasing. All signs of a trail were + obliterated,--the underbrush very thick and loaded with snow,--the + snow unfit for snowshoes, according to the Indians. I now turned + back to our bivouac, and there awaited the arrival of an Indian who + was out hunting, and who was said to possess much information about + the country. He soon arrived, and proved to be a very intelligent + Yakima, whom I had seen on the other side of the mountains in the + summer. He had been hunting in the direction I wished to go, and + stated that the snow soon increased to 'waist-deep' long before + reaching the Nooksai-Nooksai, and that it was positively + impracticable to use snowshoes. He also said that the Indians did + not pretend to cross over the mountains at this season, but waited + till about the end of March, and then took their horses over. + + "Next morning, after again questioning the Indian, I reluctantly + determined to return, being forced to the conclusion that, if the + attempt to reach the pass was not wholly impracticable, it was at + least inexpedient under all the circumstances in which I was + placed."[7] + +Could any man but McClellan have seriously asserted that "it was +positively impracticable to use snowshoes" on snow, and that, too, on +the authority of Indians, who were notoriously unreliable, and who, in +their jealousy of white exploration, habitually exaggerated the +difficulties of the country? This seems the very acme of imaginary +obstacles. It was January 10 that McClellan turned back. Had he manfully +taken to his snowshoes, he could have reached the summit in three or +four days, and connected with his reconnoissance on the eastern side, +and this was soon demonstrated to his deep disgust. + +Far different was the action and spirit of Tinkham. He had just arrived +at Walla Walla from a remarkable and arduous trip, during which he +crossed the Rocky Mountains by the Marias Pass, proceeded to Fort +Benton, recrossed the mountains by a more southern pass to the Bitter +Root valley, and thence crossed the Bitter Root Range on snowshoes by +the rugged southern Nez Perces trail, when he received Governor +Stevens's instructions to push to the Sound by way of the Snoqualmie +Pass. Starting from Walla Walla on January 7 with two Indians, he +proceeded up the Yakima to its head on horseback, and there leaving his +animals, he crossed the mountains on snowshoes, and reached Seattle on +January 26, seven days after leaving the eastern base of the divide, and +twenty days from Walla Walla. He carefully measured the depth of snow +and reported:-- + + "From Lake Kitchelus to the summit, some five miles, and where + occurs the deepest snow, the average measurement was about six feet, + but frequently running as high as seven feet. Passing on to the west + side of the Cascades, the snow rapidly disappears; fourteen miles + from the summit there was but eight inches of snow, and thence it + gradually faded away as approach was made to the shores of the + Sound: for only a few miles was the snow six feet deep; the whole + breadth over twelve inches deep was somewhat less than sixty miles + in extent." + +Thus Tinkham actually crossed the range and reached the Sound, making +the very trip that McClellan pronounced "impracticable" and would not +even try, only ten days after the latter's failure. + +But McClellan's pride was hurt by this incident. He took Governor +Stevens's opinion as to the snow question, and his action in sending +Tinkham across the pass, in high dudgeon as a reflection on himself, +and, regardless of the true friendship shown him and benefits conferred +upon him by the governor, treated him with marked coldness. In his usual +generous and magnanimous way, Governor Stevens took no notice of this +changed attitude of McClellan, but gave him all possible credit in his +reports. Some years afterwards, when Governor Stevens was in Congress, +their mutual friend, Captain J.G. Foster, came to him, and said that +McClellan wished to meet him again and renew their old friendship. +Accordingly they met at Willard's, and McClellan appeared as cordial and +agreeable as of old. + +Captain McClellan had been instructed, after completing his +reconnoissance of the Snoqualmie Pass, to examine the harbors on the +eastern shore of the Sound as far as Bellingham Bay. But he gave up this +duty also, after proceeding a single day's trip in canoes about twenty +miles north of the mouth of the Snohomish River to the northern +extremity of McDonough or Camano Island, where he encamped for the +night, alleging as usual the inclemency of the weather: "During that +night six inches of snow fell and a violent gale arose, so that on the +next day we were unable to proceed. On the next day (14th), the wind +still continuing dead ahead and very violent, I turned back," etc. + +Yet at this very time Governor Stevens was making a complete tour of the +Sound in a small open sailboat, regardless of wind and weather. + +McClellan also failed to do anything towards opening the military road +across the Cascades between Steilacoom and Fort Walla Walla; and +Lieutenant Richard Arnold, under the governor's general supervision, +relieved him of the charge of the road, and completed it in 1854. + +It will be remembered how Governor Stevens had placed this road in +McClellan's hands, had furnished him with information and correspondence +relating to it, and had advised him to consult with the prominent +settlers in regard to the best location of it. Of these people the +governor remarks in his report:-- + + "They have crossed the mountains, and made the long distance from + the valley of the Mississippi to their homes on the Pacific; they + have done so frequently, having to cut out roads as they went, and + knowing little of the difficulties before them. They are therefore + men of observation, of experience, of enterprise, and men who at + home had by industry and frugality secured a competency and the + respect of their neighbors; for it must be known that our emigrants + travel in parties, and those go together who were acquaintances at + home, because they mutually confide in each other. I was struck with + the high qualities of the frontier people, and soon learned how to + confide in them and gather information from them." + +Contrast with this McClellan's assertions in his letter to Secretary of +War Davis, of September 18, 1853:-- + + "But the result of my short experience in this country has been that + not the slightest faith or confidence is to be placed in information + derived from the employees of the Hudson Bay Company, or from the + inhabitants of the Territory; in every instance, when I have acted + upon information thus obtained, I have been altogether deceived and + misled." + +But he was ready enough to adopt the reports of Indians in support of +obstacles which existed chiefly in his own imagination. + +FOOTNOTES: + + [7] Pacific R.R. Reports, vol. i. pp. 622-624. + + + + + CHAPTER XXII + + ORGANIZING CIVIL GOVERNMENT.--THE INDIAN SERVICE + + +It was indeed a wild country, untouched by civilization, and a scanty +white population sparsely sprinkled over the immense area that were +awaiting the arrival of Governor Stevens to organize civil government, +and shape the destinies of the future. A mere handful of settlers, 3965 +all told, were widely scattered over western Washington, between the +lower Columbia and the Strait of Fuca. A small hamlet clustered around +the military post at Vancouver. A few settlers were spread wide apart +along the Columbia, among whom were Columbia Lancaster on Lewis River; +Seth Catlin, Dr. Nathaniel Ostrander, and the Huntingtons about the +mouth of the Cowlitz; Alexander S. Abernethy at Oak Point; and Judge +William Strong at Cathlamet. Some oystermen in Shoalwater Bay were +taking shellfish for the San Francisco market. At Cowlitz Landing, +thirty miles up that river, were extensive prairies, where farms had +been cultivated by the Hudson Bay Company, under the name of the Puget +Sound Agricultural Company, for fifteen years; and here were a few +Americans and a number of Scotch and Canadians, former employees of that +company, and now looking forward to becoming American citizens, and +settling down upon their own "claims" under the Donation Act, which gave +320 acres to every settler, and as much more to his wife. A score of +hardy pioneers had settled upon the scattered prairies between the +Cowlitz Farms and the Sound; among them were John R. Jackson, typical +English yeoman, on his prairie, ten miles from the Cowlitz; S.S. +Saunders, on Saunders's Bottom, where now stands the town of Chehalis; +George Washington, a colored man, on the next prairie, the site of +Centralia; Judge Sidney S. Ford on his prairie on the Chehalis River, +below the mouth of the Skookumchuck Creek; W.B. Goodell, B.L. Henness, +and Stephen Hodgdon on Grand Mound Prairie; A.B. Rabbeson and W.W. Plumb +on Mound Prairie. A number of settlers had taken up the prairies about +Olympia, the principal of whom were W.O. Bush, Gabriel Jones, William +Rutledge, and David Kendrick on Bush Prairie; J.N. Low, Andrew J. +Chambers, Nathan Eaton, Stephen D. Ruddell, and Urban E. Hicks on +Chambers's Prairie; David J. Chambers on the prairie of his name. James +McAlister and William Packwood were on the Nisqually Bottom, at the +mouth of the river, just north of which, on the verge of the Nisqually +plains, was situated the Hudson Bay Company post, Fort Nisqually, a +parallelogram of log buildings and stockade, under charge of Dr. W.F. +Tolmie, a warm-hearted and true Scot. Great herds of Spanish cattle, the +property of this company, roamed over the Nisqually plains, little cared +for and more than half wild, and, it is to be feared, occasionally fell +prey to the rifles of the hungry American emigrants. Two miles below +Olympia, on the east side of the bay, was located a Catholic mission +under Fathers Ricard and Blanchet, where were a large building, an +orchard, and a garden. They had made a number of converts among the +Indians. + +Towns, each as yet little more than a "claim" and a name, but each in +the hope and firm belief of its founders destined to future greatness, +were just started at Steilacoom, by Lafayette Balch; at Seattle, by Dr. +D. S. Maynard, H.L. Yesler, and the Dennys; at Port Townsend, by F.W. +Pettygrove and L.B. Hastings; and at Bellingham Bay, by Henry Roder and +Edward Eldridge. + +Save the muddy track from the Cowlitz to Olympia and thence to +Steilacoom, and a few local trails, roads there were none. Communication +was chiefly by water, almost wholly in canoes manned by Indians. The +monthly steamer from San Francisco and a little river steamboat plying +daily between Vancouver and Portland alone vexed with their keels the +mighty Columbia; while it was not until the next year that reckless, +harum-scarum Captain Jack Scranton ran the Major Tompkins, a small black +steamer, once a week around the Sound, and had no rival. Here was this +great wooded country without roads, the unrivaled waterways without +steamers, the adventurous, vigorous white population without laws, +numerous tribes of Indians without treaties, and the Hudson Bay +Company's rights and possessions without settlement. To add to the +difficulties and confusion of the situation, Congress, by the Donation +Acts, held out a standing invitation to the American settlers to seize +and settle upon any land, surveyed or unsurveyed, without waiting to +extinguish the Indian title, or define the lands guaranteed by solemn +treaty to the foreign company, and already the Indians and the Hudson +Bay Company were growing daily more and more restless and indignant at +the encroachments of the pushing settlers upon their choicest spots. +Truly a situation fraught with difficulties and dangers, where +everything was to be done and nothing yet begun. + +It is a great but common mistake to suppose that the early American +settlers of Washington were a set of lawless, rough, and ignorant +borderers. In fact they compare favorably with the early settlers of any +of the States. As a rule they were men of more than average force of +character, vigorous, honest, intelligent, law-abiding, and +patriotic,--men who had brought their families to carve out homes in +the wilderness, and many of them men of education and of standing in +their former abodes. Among them could be found the best blood of New +England, the sturdy and kindly yeomanry of Virginia and Kentucky, and +men from all the States of the Middle West from Ohio to Arkansas. Most +of them had slowly wended their way across the great plains, overcoming +every obstacle, and suffering untold privations; others had come by sea +around Cape Horn, or across the Isthmus. They were all true Americans, +patriotic and brave, and filled with sanguine hopes of, and firm faith +in, the future growth and greatness of the new country which they had +come to make blossom like the rose. Governor Stevens, as has been shown, +at once appreciated the character of these people. + +After the arduous and exposed journey up the Cowlitz by canoe,--where +the Indian crew had to gain foot by foot against the furious current of +the flooded river, oftentimes pulling the frail craft along by the +overhanging bushes,--and over the muddy trail by horseback, Governor +Stevens reached Olympia on November 25, 1853, just five months and +nineteen days since starting from St. Paul. He found here awaiting his +arrival the new territorial secretary, Charles M. Mason, brother to his +old friend Colonel James Mason, of the engineers, who had just come out +by the Isthmus route. Mason was of distinguished appearance and bearing, +with fine dark eyes and hair, fair, frank face, and charming but +unobtrusive manner. He was highly educated, gifted with unusual ability, +and a noble and amiable disposition, and was beloved by all who knew +him. The other territorial officers on the ground were: Edward Lander, +chief justice, and Victor Monroe, associate justice; J.V. Clendenin, +district attorney; J. Patten Anderson, marshal; and Simpson P. Moses, +collector of customs. + +[Illustration: CHARLES H. MASON + _Secretary of Washington Territory_] + +Among the settlers welcoming their new governor were: Edmund Sylvester, +the founder of Olympia; Colonel William Cock, Shirley Ensign, D.R. +Bigelow, George A. Barnes, H.A. Goldsborough, John M. Swan, C.H. Hale, +Judge B.F. Yantis, Judge Gilmore Hayes, John G. Parker, Quincy A. +Brooks, Dr. G.K. Willard, Colonel M. T. Simmons, Captain Clanrick +Crosby, Ira Ward, James Biles, Joseph Cushman, S.W. Percival, Edwin +Marsh, R.M. Walker, Levi and James Offut, J.C. Head, W. Dobbins, Isaac +Hawk, Rev. G.F. Whitworth, Jared S. Hurd, H.R. Woodward, B.F. Brown, and +M. Hurd. + +The arrival of the governor and his party was the great event for the +little town, as well as for the new Territory generally, and warm and +hearty was his greeting by the pioneers. And when shortly afterwards, +December 19, the governor delivered a lecture, giving a description of +his exploration and an exposition of the Northern route, their hopes and +expectations were raised to the highest point, and they already saw in +the mind's eye the iron horse speeding across the plains and through the +mighty forests, and the full-flowing tide of immigration following its +advent. + +Without delay the governor issued his proclamation, as empowered by the +organic act marking out and establishing election districts, appointing +time (January 30) and places for holding the elections, for a delegate +in Congress and members of the legislature, and summoning that body to +meet in Olympia on the 28th of February. + +The Indian service next engaged his attention. He appointed Colonel M.T. +Simmons Indian agent for the Puget Sound Indians, with B.F. Shaw and O. +Cushman as interpreters and assistants, and sent them to visit the +different tribes and bands, to assure them of the protection and +guidance of the Great Father in Washington, to urge them to cultivate +the soil and "follow the white man's road," that is, to adopt the +habits of civilized life; and to impress upon them the necessity of +making treaties, in order to prevent future trouble and secure them +peace and safety. He also appointed A.J. Bolon agent for the Indians +east of the Cascades, and William H. Tappan agent for the coast and +river Indians on the Chehalis and Columbia rivers, Gray's Harbor, and +Shoalwater Bay. + +Governor Stevens deeply commiserated the condition and probable future +of the Indians under his charge, and felt the greatest interest and +concern in their welfare and improvement. How wise, generous, and +beneficent a policy he established in his treaties, with what great +kindness, justice, and firmness he uniformly treated them, will be shown +later in this work. It is enough to say now that the Indians came to +know him as their friend and protector, and to this day hold his memory +in reverence; that the treaties he made and the policy he inaugurated +have remained in force to the present time, and that under them the +Indians of Washington have more fully preserved their rights and +improved their condition than the aborigines of any other State. + +Having thus started the civil government and Indian service, and set the +young men of the exploration hard at work preparing the reports, and, as +already related, dispatched McClellan to run the line from the Sound to +the Snoqualmie Pass, the governor took the Sarah Stone, a small +sailboat, or "plunger," and, accompanied by Mr. George Gibbs, went down +the Sound in person, in order, as he states, "to visit and take a census +of the Indian tribes, learn something of the general character of the +Sound and its harbors, and to visit Vancouver Island and its principal +port, Victoria. + + "In this trip I visited Steilacoom, Seattle, Skagit Head, Penn's + Cove, the mouths of the Skagit and Samish rivers, Bellingham Bay, + passed up the channel De Rosario and down the channel De Haro to + Victoria, and on my return made Port Townsend and several other + points on the western shore of the Sound. We examined the coal mines + back of Seattle and Bellingham Bay, and saw a large body of Indians + of nearly all the tribes. I became greatly impressed with the + important advantages of Seattle, and also with the importance of the + disputed islands." + +In a report to the Secretary of War, written immediately after this +trip, he remarks:-- + + "I was agreeably impressed with Elliott's Bay, on which are the + flourishing towns of Seattle and Alki, and I agree entirely in the + opinion of Captain McClellan that it is the best harbor on the + Sound, and unless the approach to it from the pass should, on a more + minute examination, prove less favorable than to some other point, + which is hardly to be expected, that it is the proper terminus of + the railroad." + +In his reports Seattle is assumed as the terminus on the Sound, and all +the distances measured and calculations of cost, etc., are made with +reference to that point as the western end of the route. + +The above is a provokingly brief and meagre record of this trip, which +occupied the whole month of January, the same month that McClellan, +after balking the Snoqualmie survey, turned back from Camano Island and +abandoned the examination of the lower Sound in consequence of the +inclemency of the weather. The governor's trip could have been no +holiday excursion, in an open sailboat in that stormy, rainy season, and +among the swift tides and fierce gales of the lower Sound. But it was +fruitful in results. He grasped with the acute and discriminating eye of +an engineer the whole system of waters and the several harbors and +points of importance, talked with the principal men of each place and +gleaned all the information they could furnish, and gained a +comprehensive and correct idea of the numbers, distribution, and +character of the Indians. + +Moreover, he met at Victoria Governor Sir James Douglass and the other +officers there of the Hudson Bay Company, and discussed with them their +claims within our borders. He had now visited and personally examined +all but one (Fort Okanogan) of that company's posts within his +territory, Colville, Walla Walla, Vancouver, Cowlitz Farms, and +Nisqually, and had discussed their claims with the officers in charge of +them, and with the chief factor, Sir James Douglass. As the result of +this investigation he made, on his return to Olympia, an exhaustive +report to the Secretary of State, setting forth in detail the actual +holdings and improvements of the company at each point. He estimated +that their value could not exceed $300,000, and recommended that a +commission be appointed to adjudicate the claims, and that such sum be +appropriated by Congress to extinguish them. Secretary Marcy adopted his +views and recommendations, and transmitted them to Congress, and a bill +appointing the commission and making the appropriation passed the Senate +the following session, but failed in the House. These claims remained a +bone of contention between the countries for many years, until finally +Great Britain, by means of a joint commission, and by sticking to the +most extravagant demands with true bulldog tenacity, succeeded in +wringing nearly a million dollars from the United States. + +At the election Columbia Lancaster was chosen delegate in Congress. He +was a lawyer by profession, and a man of ability and education. + +The legislature assembled on the appointed day, and Governor Stevens +delivered his first message. Briefly reviewing the great natural +resources of the Territory and its commercial advantages, with its +unrivaled harbors and location to control in due time the trade of China +and Japan, he recommended the adoption of a code of laws, the +organization of the country east of the Cascades into counties, a +school system with military training in the higher schools, and the +organization of the militia. The latter he declared necessary in view of +their remote situation, compelling them to rely upon themselves in case +of war, for a time at least, and to enable them to draw arms and +ammunition from the general government, which could be issued only to an +organized militia force. He dwelt on the importance of extinguishing the +Indian title and the claims of the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound +Agricultural Companies, and settling the boundary line on British +territory, and recommended them to memorialize Congress in behalf of +these measures. He informed them that, under instructions from the +Secretary of State, he had already notified the foreign Fur Company that +it could not be allowed to trade with Indians within the Territory, and +would be given until July to wind up their affairs. He also urged them +to ask Congress for a surveyor-general and a land office, for more rapid +surveys of public land, so that they might be kept in advance of +settlement; to amend the land laws by facilitating the acquisition of +title, and by placing single women on the same footing with married +women; for a grant of lands for a university; for improved mail service; +for roads to Walla Walla, to Vancouver, and to Bellingham Bay along the +eastern shore of the Sound; and for continuing the geographical and +geological surveys already begun. He boldly advocated the construction +of three railroads across the continent, undoubtedly the first to +foresee the necessity of more than a single line. From this time he +always advocated three transcontinental roads. + +All these recommendations were promptly adopted by the legislature, +except as regarded the militia, concerning which no action was taken; an +unfortunate neglect, which left the people almost defenseless when the +Indian war broke out less than two years later. + +Soon after arriving at Olympia, Governor Stevens writes his friend +Halleck announcing his arrival and the successful achievement of the +exploration. In this letter he expresses the opinion that the waters of +San Francisco Bay and Puget Sound should both have their connections +with the States by railroad. + +He asks Halleck how lands should be donated and managed for the +establishment of a university in Washington Territory, and his views as +to a plan, etc. + +January 9 he writes Joseph Grinnell & Co., of New York, a great +mercantile and shipping and whaling firm, suggesting to them the +establishing of a whaling and fishing depot on one of the harbors of the +lower Sound. + +Halleck writes a cordial letter in reply to the governor's, and gives +him a glimpse "behind the curtain" of California and Southern Democratic +politics, which throws light on Jefferson Davis's action in shutting off +the further exploration of the Northern route. + + "I have by no means lost my interest in the Democratic party, or the + great public questions of the day. The first and most important of + these is the great continental railroad. Present examinations would + seem almost conclusive against Benton's central project. If so, this + road must run from some point in New Mexico to some pass near Los + Angeles, and thence to San Francisco (and San Diego, perhaps). + + "If this southern route should be selected, it would lead to another + northern route, perhaps the one explored by yourself to Puget Sound. + Even if a single road should be adopted on the central line, it must + fork to San Francisco and Puget Sound, the two great termini of the + Pacific coast. + + "The pro-slavery extension party will work very hard against the + North Pacific States, which must of necessity remain free. The first + branch of this project was to call a new convention in California + dividing it into two States, making the southern one a slave State, + with San Diego as the port and terminus of a railroad through Texas. + Circulars and letters to that effect were sent to pro-slavery men in + California, and the attempt made to divide the State, but it + failed. The next move was to acquire Lower California and part of + Sonora and Chihuahua, making Guaymas the terminus, and the newly + acquired territory slave States. Two separate plans were set on foot + for the same object, the Walker 'filibustering' expedition against + Lower California and Sonora, and Gadsden's treaty with Santa Anna. + The former is thus far a most complete and contemptible failure, but + rumor says the latter is likely to be successful, and will be + undoubtedly, if backed with sufficient money. If the territory is + acquired, it will be slave territory, and a most tremendous effort + will be made to run _a_ railroad if not _the_ railroad from Texas to + Guaymas, with a _branch_ to San Francisco." + +Amid all these pressing and engrossing official duties the governor +found time to purchase his future homestead in Olympia, Block 84, and +also a tract of ten acres a little farther back, where Maple Park is now +situated. He also contracted for the purchase of the north half of the +Walker Donation claim, a tract of three hundred and twenty acres +situated a mile and a half south of the town and half way to Tumwater. +All these tracts were then buried in the dense and tall fir forest; but +when the country was cleared, it appeared that the governor had selected +them with unerring judgment, for they are the finest sites in the town +or vicinity. + +During all this time the governor and the officers and scientific men of +the exploration were hard at work on the reports of their operations, +working up the observations, and classifying the collections. As +McClellan, Donelson, Lander, Suckley, Gibbs, Arnold, Tinkham, and Grover +successively reached Olympia, bringing fresh contributions of +information gathered in their trips, each took hold of the work. The +offices of the survey were in two small, one-storied buildings on the +west side of Main Street, between Second and Third, hired of Father +Ricard, and presented a busy scene, filled with desks, tables, +instruments, collections, maps, and papers, among which the young men +were writing and working for dear life. + +Lieutenant Arnold and Dr. Suckley executed the reconnoissances intrusted +to them most satisfactorily. Lieutenant Grover, starting from Fort +Benton in January with his dog-train, crossed the main range to the +Bitter Root valley, finding only eight inches of snow, and thence +continued with horses down Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille Lake and to the +Dalles. On reaching Vancouver the governor dispatched an express to +Lieutenant Mullan by Spokane Garry, who had accompanied him to that +point, and in January he sent wagonmaster Higgins with a second express +to the same point. Thus, by these expresses going and returning, he had +the route between the Bitter Root valley and Olympia traversed four +times in addition to Grover's trip. Lieutenant Mullan crossed the main +continental divide six times that winter, extending his trips to Fort +Hall, on the upper Snake River, and traveling nearly a thousand miles. +The explorations made by the young officers, including Tinkham and Doty, +were very remarkable and valuable, and were attended at times with great +exertions and privations, and full accounts of them are given in the +final report. + +Thus, by his winter posts and parties, the governor was solving, in the +most complete and satisfactory manner, the questions of mountain snows +and climates. From Olympia he reported to Secretary of War Davis the +results of the explorations, and particularly on these points. He urged +that the posts be continued, and a closer examination made of the more +favorable mountain passes, and that lines be surveyed from the Northern +route to Great Salt Lake and to San Francisco. + +At this juncture Governor Stevens received a curt and peremptory order +from Secretary Davis, disapproving his arrangements, and ordering him to +disband the winter parties and bring his operations to a close. +Acknowledging the receipt of the order, February 13, he declares that it +shall be promptly obeyed, and continues:-- + + "But I earnestly submit to the department the importance of the + continuation of these surveys, and indulge the hope that Congress + will make liberal appropriations, both in a deficiency bill and in + the general appropriation bill, in order that the field now so well + entered upon may be fully occupied. + + "I will respectfully call the attention of the department to the + peculiar circumstances of my exploration, which will, it seems to + me, explain the exceeding of the appropriation, with every desire + and effort on my part so to arrange the scale and conduct it as not + to involve a deficiency. The field was almost totally new, rendering + it impossible to form an estimate. Much work of reconnoissance had + to be done, which had previously been done for all the other routes, + before a direction could be given to the railroad examinations and + estimates proper. Unforeseen expenses in the way of presents, etc., + had to be incurred to conciliate the Indian tribes, for our route + was the only one, so far as I was informed, that at the time was + deemed particularly dangerous; and the investigation of the question + of snow was a vital and fundamental one, essential to making any + reliable report at all, and included within the express requirements + of the original instructions. I deeply regretted the deficiency + which I found impending at Fort Benton, and I took at that place + that course which I believed Congress and the department would have + taken under the circumstances." + +Moreover, to provide funds indispensable for the immediate needs of the +survey, the governor had drawn on Corcoran and Riggs, government bankers +in Washington, to the amount of $16,000, and these drafts all went to +protest. + +But the Secretary's order arrived too late to frustrate Governor +Stevens's thoroughgoing measures for determining the snow question. The +problem was solved before the work of the winter parties could be +arrested, and this most important point was clearly and satisfactorily +set forth in the report. The much-feared mountain snows were found to be +greatly exaggerated, and to present no real obstacle to the operation of +railroads. In this respect the report has been fully confirmed by +subsequent experience, and in fact less difficulty has been encountered +from snow in the mountains than on the plains of Dakota. + +He decided, therefore, to hasten to Washington the earliest moment his +threefold duties of the governorship, Indian service, and the +exploration would admit of, filled with the fixed determination to +prevent the discontinuance of the exploration, to secure the payment of +the protested drafts, and to enlighten the government as to the +necessity of the Blackfoot council, and of extinguishing the Indian +title within his own Territory. + +To justify his going without leave first obtained, the legislature +passed a joint resolution that "no disadvantage would result to the +Territory should the governor visit Washington, if, in his judgment, the +interests of the Northern Pacific Railroad survey could thereby be +promoted." + + + + + CHAPTER XXIII + + RETURN TO WASHINGTON.--REPORT OF EXPLORATION + + +Governor Stevens left Olympia on March 26, and, proceeding by way of the +Cowlitz to the Columbia, and by steamer down the coast, reached San +Francisco early in April. Here he found a group of his old friends and +brother officers, including Mason, Halleck, and Folsom, and how warmly +he was received by them, and how interesting they found his accounts of +the exploration, the Indians, and the many wild and new scenes he had +passed through, may be imagined. His arrival attracted much public +attention; his exploration was deemed a very important and remarkable +one, and one conducted with remarkable ability and success; and in Music +Hall, on Bush Street, April 13, before a crowded audience, and +introduced by Mayor Garrison, he gave an able address upon the Northern +route. In this address he boldly advocated three railroads across the +continent, declaring that the subject of internal communications was too +great to be treated from a sectional point of view. He demonstrated the +favorable character of the route and country he had explored, the +navigability of the upper Columbia and Missouri, and the little +obstruction from snows. The impression made by this address is reflected +in the editorial of the San Francisco "Herald:"-- + + "Of all the surveys ordered by the general government at Washington + with a view to the selection of a route for a railroad across the + continent, that intrusted to Governor Stevens is by far the most + satisfactory. He took the field in June last, having left the + Mississippi River on the 15th of that month, and, moving steadily + westward,--throwing out parties on the right and left of his line, + surveying every stream of any consequence, exploring every pass + again and again,--he has accomplished in that time the survey of a + belt extending two thousand miles from east to west, and from one + hundred and fifty to two hundred miles from north to south. In the + Rocky Mountains his explorations have extended over four hundred + miles from north to south, and in the Cascade Mountains over two + hundred and fifty miles. While the main work of reconnoissance was + going on, the auxiliary departments of geology, natural history, + botany, etc., were prosecuted with vigor and success. The results + obtained in so short a space of time are, as far as we are aware, + unparalleled. + + "The route thus occupied by Governor Stevens and his party is the + route of the two great rivers across the continent, the Missouri and + Columbia. Their tributaries interlock; the whole mountain range is + broken down into spurs and valleys, and no obstruction exists from + snow. The whole route is eminently practicable. The highest grade + will be fifty feet to the mile. The summit level of the road will be + about five thousand feet above the sea. There will be but one + tunnel. The snows will be less than in the New England States. The + Missouri River has been surveyed, and found to be navigable for + steamers to the Falls, about seven hundred miles from Puget Sound, + and five hundred miles to the point where the main Columbia is first + reached by railroad from the East. This five hundred miles is in + part along Clark's Fork, affording one hundred miles navigable for + steamers. + + "The results of the survey may be summed up as follows: Three lines + run from the Mississippi River to the Rocky Mountains; nine passes + explored in the Rocky Mountains; three lines run from the Rocky + Mountains to the Columbia River and Puget Sound; the Cascades + explored from the Columbia to the 49th parallel; Puget Sound + examined with reference to a railroad depot; the fact that not the + slightest obstruction will occur from snow established beyond + controversy." + +After a short stay in San Francisco, Governor Stevens took the steamer +for the Isthmus, and reached New York in May, and the next morning had +a joyful reunion with his wife and little girls in Newport. After his +severe and long-continued labors, the sea voyage compelled him to a +much-needed rest. On such voyages he threw off his wonted intense, high +pressure mood of work, and, with mind relaxed, enjoyed the soothing +influence of old Neptune. + +He proceeded immediately to Washington with his family, except his son, +who was at school at Phillips Academy in Andover, and who joined him +later at the summer vacation, and took rooms at the National Hotel on +Pennsylvania Avenue. A great deal was still to be done to complete the +report of the exploration, and with Tinkham, Osgood, and other +assistants he drove it with his accustomed vigor. On June 30 he +submitted it to the department, the first report of all the routes, +although it covered the greatest field, and was by far the most +comprehensive and exhaustive. + +Secretary Davis, recognizing that in his measures for prosecuting the +survey Governor Stevens was actuated solely by zeal for the public +service, submitted an estimate to cover the deficiency, which was duly +appropriated, and the protested drafts were honored. General Hunt gives +the following incident, which shows the confidence Governor Stevens's +old friends had in his ability to carry his points:-- + + "I followed him in the thorough work he made of the Northern Pacific + Railway survey,--of his row with Jeff Davis for overrunning in his + expenditures the amount assigned him, and so preventing Jeff's + designs of defeating that road. In 1854 I had, at Fort Monroe, + occasion to describe your father to old Major Holmes, a classmate of + Jeff. He went to Washington, and on his return told me, 'Your friend + Stevens is ruined. Davis refuses to recommend to Congress to make + good the expenditures as contrary to orders. It will ruin Stevens.' + 'Wait awhile,' said I; 'I see by the last "Union" that Stevens has + just arrived en route to Washington at Panama. He will leave Jeff + _nowhere!_' Soon after he arrived in Washington, was followed by an + appropriation covering all his bills, and so Jeff failed all round." + +Secretary Davis was in fact astonished and deeply disappointed at the +results of the survey, and the very favorable picture of the Northern +route and country given in Governor Stevens's report. A leader among the +Southern public men, who were so soon to bring on the great rebellion, +of which he was to be the official head, he had set his heart upon the +Southern route, and was anxious to establish its superiority to all +others and secure its adoption as the national route, in order to +aggrandize his own section. He could ill brook, therefore, Governor +Stevens's clear and vivid description of the Northern route, showing its +great superiority in soil and climate, the easy grades, absence of snow, +and accessibility by inland river navigation. He chose to consider the +accounts overdrawn as the best way of sustaining his chosen route. In +his report to Congress, transmitting the surveys of the several routes, +he took great pains to belittle the results of Governor Stevens's labors +and disparage the Northern route. In his comparison of routes, he +arbitrarily increased the governor's estimate of cost from $117,121,000 +to $150,871,000, or nearly $38,000,000; magnified the physical +difficulties; condemned the agricultural resources; declared that "the +country west of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific slope may likewise be +described as one of general sterility," and that "the severely cold +character of the climate throughout the whole route, except the portion +west of the Cascade Mountains, is one of its unfavorable features." He +ignored the governor's statements, and Tinkham's reconnoissance as to +the snow in the Snoqualmie Pass, and the practicability of the latter, +and, quoting McClellan with approval, declared that "the snow is twenty +feet deep, the pass barely practicable, and the information now +possessed is sufficient to decide against this route." It is significant +that he pays a warm compliment to McClellan, remarking that "his +examination presents a reconnoissance of great value, and, though +performed under adverse circumstances, exhibits all the information +necessary to determine the practicability of this portion of the route." +And this of an officer who had consumed a whole month in moving one +hundred and eighty miles; lay another month in camp in the Yakima +valley, making only the most cursory examinations; found the passes +non-existent, or "impracticable;" reported the snow twenty to +twenty-five feet deep on the credit of Indians; ignobly quailed at +inclement weather and snows, which other men bravely faced and overcame; +and generally condemned the country, and vilified the hardy pioneers. In +sober truth McClellan found credit in the eyes of the Secretary, not for +what he accomplished, but for what he failed to accomplish, for his +unfavorable and condemnatory report on the route and the country, which +was precisely the kind of testimony the Secretary wanted. The country, +stigmatized as one of "general sterility," and which Governor Stevens +pronounced a fine, arable region of great fertility, is now one of the +great wheat-fields of the country, yielding twenty to thirty million +bushels a year. + +Moreover, Mr. Davis manifested a dissatisfied and fault-finding spirit +towards the governor. On one occasion, when the latter was calling on +him, and asking his attention to some matter of importance connected +with the survey, Davis interrupted him with marked impatience, and +intimated that he had no time to hear him. "I do not come here to talk +with Jefferson Davis," exclaimed the governor with dignity, "but to +confer with the Secretary of War upon the public business intrusted to +my charge, and I demand his attention." The Secretary at once gave him +full and considerate hearing until the matter was fully gone into, and +as the governor took his leave, followed him to the door, and frankly +apologized for his momentary rudeness. Jefferson Davis was not without +generous and magnanimous traits, and appreciated the earnest and sincere +character of his caller. But he put a stop to further work on the +Northern route, prevented any more appropriations for it, and kept up +his fight against it. Some time afterwards, in speaking of the route to +a mutual friend,[8] he declared: "Governor Stevens is a man of great +ability, and of upright and high-toned character, but he has entirely +misconceived and exaggerated the agricultural resources of the Northern +route. The fact is, he has no knowledge of agricultural soils or +conditions." When this was repeated to the governor he remarked: +"Indeed, perhaps Mr. Davis does not know that I was brought up on a farm +until my seventeenth year." + +But Governor Stevens indulged in no complaints at this unworthy +treatment. He knew that the information given in his report was too well +founded and abundant to be refuted by mere official rancor. Despite the +deprivation of funds, he continued the work of exploration, survey, and +observation for the next three years, making free use of the Indian +agents and volunteer troops under his command, and unsparing in his own +personal exertions, and on February 7, 1859, submitted to the War +Department "My final report of the explorations made by me and under my +direction in the years 1853, 1854, and 1855, to determine the +practicability of the Northern route for a railroad to the Pacific." +This report, published by order of Congress in two large quarto volumes, +as Parts I. and II., vol. xii., Pacific Railroad Reports, contains over +eight hundred pages, with plates, tables, and views, and most fully +sustains the earlier report, besides adding an immense amount of new +information. And this was Governor Stevens's answer to Secretary Davis. + +But the governor found the sultry summer in Washington a very trying +one, in cramped quarters, overburdened with the voluminous data and +details of the report, and subject to many annoyances. Unfortunately, +the meteorological and astronomical observations, while in care of +Lieutenant Donelson, were lost, presumably on the Isthmus, by the +carelessness of the express company, and could not be recovered, +although that officer returned to San Francisco expressly in search of +them, and this loss caused serious embarrassment. The governor found, +too, that some of the scientific corps were proposing to publish as +their own separate work the materials gathered as members of the +exploration, and had to adopt decided and severe measures to prevent the +barefaced attempt. During great part of July he was seriously ill, and +incapacitated from work. + +In addition to all these labors and cares, he obtained the sanction of +the government for holding the Blackfoot council he had so much at +heart, for which he was appointed a commissioner, and allotted $10,000 +for assembling and bringing the western Indians to Fort Benton. His +views and recommendations in regard to treating with the Indians of +Washington Territory, and purchasing their lands, were also adopted, and +he was appointed the commissioner to make such treaties. As already +stated, his recommendations in regard to the claims of the Hudson Bay +Company were adopted by the Secretary of State. Congress appropriated +$30,000 for a wagon-road from Fort Benton to Walla Walla, a matter which +the governor strenuously urged; and also amended the land laws, created +the office of surveyor-general, and made appropriations for universal +surveys and mail service. To all these matters "Governor Stevens +addressed himself with the energy, ability, and straightforwardness +which were his characteristics, supplementing the feebler efforts of +Lancaster, and, with Lane of Oregon, coming to the rescue of the most +important bills for Washington, and really doing the work of the +delegate."[9] Notwithstanding Secretary Davis's attitude on the Northern +route, Governor Stevens seems to have lost none of his influence with +the administration. When about to return to the Pacific coast, President +Pierce invited him to write him personally and frequently. + +FOOTNOTES: + + [8] Major George T. Clark. + + [9] Bancroft's _Pacific States_, vol. xxvi. p. 88. + + + + + CHAPTER XXIV + + CROSSING THE ISTHMUS + + +Governor Stevens, with his family, consisting of his wife, four +children, the two youngest being only two and four years old +respectively, and the nurse Ellen, a bonny young Irish woman, sailed +from New York, September 20, 1854, en route for his far Western home. +The vessel was packed full, with thirteen hundred passengers. The food +was execrable, meats and poultry tainted and almost uneatable. Ice was +charged extra, twenty-five cents a pound. The second cabin table rivaled +at times a scene from Bedlam. The hungry passengers would often hurl the +spoiled chickens overboard amid loud complaints, laughter, and the +imitated crowing and cackle of cocks and hens. Christy's minstrels were +on board, bound to San Francisco,--a reckless, noisy, drinking crew, but +fine performers, both instrumental and vocal, and always ready and +willing to entertain the passengers with their pleasing melodies. The +best state-rooms were allotted the governor and family, with seats next +the captain at table, but the younger children had to sit at the second +table. The ship put in at Havana for a day, where the family enjoyed a +delicious repast of broiled birds on toast and guava jelly at the +Dominica restaurant, and viewed the cathedral and tomb of Columbus. +Crossing the Caribbean sea in hot and sultry weather, they arrived at +Aspinwall on the 29th. + +This place was squalid, dreary, and repulsive. Low, flat, swampy morass, +some filled-in land; great pools of dirty, green, stagnant water; a +frail, rickety wharf, which the ship hardly dared touch lest it fall +over; a railroad track along the shore; a hundred yards back, a number +of large, cheap-built wooden houses, like overgrown tenement houses, +unpainted and dilapidated; the street a bed of mud, littered with broken +boards and refuse lumber and piles of rubbish; black pigs roaming and +rooting about; many rascally and worthless-looking natives, in whom the +negro predominated,--the whole thoroughly wet down by heavy, drenching, +tropical showers,--such was Aspinwall, as the disappointed passengers +landed, and sought the shelter of the buildings supposed to be hotels, +but where almost everything was lacking except extortionate charges. + +After a comfortless night and miserable breakfast, the party embarked on +the cars, and proceeded about twenty miles to the "Summit," which was +half way to Panama, and as far as the road then extended, and which was +reached about noon, and learned that the rest of the way across had to +be made on horse or mule back. There were no animals ready, but it was +announced that the party would have to wait until the next morning, when +plenty of mules would be provided. Some railroad sheds, a few native +huts, and a huge pavilion, consisting of an immense pyramidal thatched +roof surmounting low sides mostly open, comprised the only shelters, and +into them the passengers flocked. + +The great pavilion belonged to a huge, jet black Jamaica negro, named +Carusi, and was not partitioned off, consisting of nothing indeed but +the earthen floor and the roof above it, with the low sides. At night +this rude structure was thronged with the weary passengers. Delicate +ladies and children, rough men, and people of every kind and condition +fairly covered the floor, or rather ground, seeking rest as best they +could; while in the centre of the apartment, in a big, old-fashioned, +four-poster bed, lay the gigantic Carusi side by side with his fat wife, +their ebony faces contrasting with the white pillows and sheets. The +minstrels improved the occasion with banjo and song until late at night, +when some of them, becoming drunk, began disturbing the company with +oaths and obscene language, but Governor Stevens rebuked them in such +stern and minatory manner that they were cowed, and relapsed into +silence. + +The expected mules began arriving in small bands under charge of natives +about noon the next day, and with much bargaining and contention the +passengers secured their mounts, and started off in groups. The governor +employed two natives to carry the two youngest children, who were mere +babies, on their backs in chairs, and set off followed by the rest of +the family mounted each on a mule. It soon began to rain in torrents. In +an hour it as suddenly ceased, and the sun came out, hot and sultry, +soon to be followed by another downpour, and so deluge and sunshine +alternated all day. After riding two hours over narrow, muddy trails, +and up and down steep though short hills, where the mules had trodden +the clay into regular steps, they reached the Chagres River, and found +all the passengers who had preceded them collected on the bank, gazing +in dismay on the raging yellow flood, for the stream was up under the +tremendous rains, and fearing to essay its passage. After viewing the +river carefully, the governor forced his mule into it, and, guiding him +diagonally across, safely made the opposite bank. Then, returning, he +led the way across again, his little daughter Sue, only eight years old, +close behind on her mule, then the rest of the family, and after them +followed all the waiting crowd. It was dark when they reached Panama, +and found shelter in an old cloistered stone convent, now used as a +hotel, exchanged their wet clothes for dry purchased at the nearest +shop, and obtained much-needed food and rest. But nothing was seen or +heard of the natives with the two babies, since they stole off on a +footpath soon after starting, and late in the evening the governor +mounted a fresh animal, and with a guide went back to find them, +spending the greater part of the night in a vain search. At breakfast +the next morning the natives brought in the children, safe and well and +perfectly contented. They had taken the little ones to their huts on +account of the heavy rains, where the native women fed them and put them +to bed, dried their clothes, and sent them in the next morning, safe and +sound. + +During the day the passengers were taken out in boats to the steamer +Golden Age, which was anchored in the bay three miles from the town. She +was a larger and more commodious ship than the other. The voyage up the +coast began the next morning. A stop of several hours was made in the +land-locked harbor of Acapulco, which the governor improved by taking +his family ashore, and treating them to a dinner of fried chicken at a +small posada on the old and quaint paved main street. The Panama fever +soon made its dreaded appearance among the passengers, owing to their +exposure on the Isthmus; many fell sick, and a considerable number died +and were buried at sea. The weather was fine, the sea calm and smooth +save for the long rollers of the Pacific, and the voyage would have been +an enjoyable one had it not been for the fearful fever and the crowded +condition of the vessel. On the fourteenth day she entered the Golden +Gate, and rested in the welcome port of San Francisco. + +The governor took rooms at the Oriental Hotel. His wife and the three +little girls were all seized with the fever on the ship, and their +condition was serious when they landed. Doctors Hitchcock and Hammond, +old army friends of the governor, were unremitting in their attentions, +and after several weeks' care brought the sufferers past the danger +point, all except the little four-year-old Maude. Her case they at +length pronounced hopeless. But her father would not give her up. He had +a hot bath administered as a last resort, and sat by her bedside hour +after hour, giving liquid nourishment drop by drop, and at last she +passed the crisis and began to recover. By all this sickness they were +forced to remain in the city over a month; but in the society of his old +friends, and amid the bright, vigorous men and bustling scenes of the +new-born metropolis, the time passed rapidly and well improved. Folsom, +a man of wealth, placed his fine carriage and horses at Mrs. Stevens's +disposal. Halleck would have long talks with the governor. Dr. Gwin and +his family, old friends and neighbors, met them with real Southern +cordiality. + +One incident is worth relating, because it materially affected +subsequent events, as the governor believed. A number of officers and +other gentlemen were conversing together at the hotel one evening, among +whom was General John E. Wool, then commanding the United States forces +on the Pacific coast. The talk turned on the battle of Buena Vista, and +General Wool loudly claimed for himself all the credit for that battle, +disparaging in an offensive manner General Taylor and the part he took +in it. At length Governor Stevens, whose strong sense of justice was +outraged by the boastful and unfair tirade, spoke up and said: "General +Wool, we all know the brilliant part you bore in the battle, but we all +know and history will record that General Taylor fought and won the +battle of Buena Vista."[10] Wool, although visibly offended, made no +reply to this rebuke, but it rankled and caused a bitter animosity, +which subsequently found vent in hostile speech and action. + +The voyage up the coast was made without special incident; they crossed +the bar, steamed up the Columbia, and landed at Vancouver early in +November. Here they remained a fortnight, the guests of Captain Brent, +the quartermaster, in order to enable the sick members to gain strength +sufficiently to stand the hard trip to the Sound. After this brief stay +the governor took his family on a little steamboat to Portland, where +they spent the night. The town then consisted only of a string of small +wooden buildings along the river-bank. The street, or road, was a +perfect quagmire of mud-holes. Single planks laid along irregularly, +with many intervals, furnished the only sidewalks. The next morning they +embarked on a steamer and went down the river to Rainier, where they +landed. This place consisted of a wharf and a sawmill. It was called +Rainier, it was said, by way of a joke, because it rained here all the +time; but doubtless it was named after Mount Rainier, which was named by +Admiral Vancouver after a lord of the British admiralty. The party took +canoes, manned by Indians, the same afternoon, crossed the Columbia, and +paddled a few miles up the Cowlitz to Monticello, where they spent the +night. At daylight the next morning the governor and family embarked in +one large canoe, while the trunks and baggage followed in another, and +pushed upstream against a swift current. There were in the canoe the +governor, his wife and four children, the nurse, and a crew of four +Indians, two at each end. It was a dark, drizzling day, with frequent +showers. The passengers sat upon the bottom of the canoe upon plenty of +Indian mats, and well wrapped in blankets, and, except for the +constrained and irksome position, were fairly comfortable. The Indians, +urged by promise of extra pay, paddled vigorously. At the rapids (and +it seemed that nearly all the stream was in rapids) they laid aside +their paddles, and, standing up, forced the canoe ahead with poles, +which they wielded with great skill and vigor. All day long they paddled +and poled with unabated energy, now paddling where they could take +advantage of an eddy or stretch of back water, now forcing the canoe up +swift rapids, gaining inch by inch. It was after dark when they reached +Cowlitz Landing, thirty miles above Monticello, and found shelter for +the night at the hospitable inn kept by Dr. and Mrs. U.G. Warbass. + +Writes Mrs. Stevens of this trip:-- + + "We were placed in the canoe with great care, so as to balance it + evenly, as it was frail and upset easily. At first the novelty, + motion, and watching our Indians paddle so deftly, then seize their + poles and push along over shallow places, keeping up a low, sweet + singing as they glided along, was amusing. As we were sitting flat + on the bottom of the canoe, the position became irksome and painful. + We were all day long on this Cowlitz River. At night I could not + stand on my feet for some time after landing. We walked ankle-deep + in the mud to a small log-house, where we had a good meal. Here we + found a number of rough, dirty-looking men, with pantaloons tucked + inside their boots, and so much hair upon their heads and faces they + all looked alike. After tea we were shown a room to sleep in, full + of beds, which were for the women. I was so worn out with this novel + way of traveling that I laid down on a narrow strip of bed, not + undressed, all my family alongside on the same bed. The governor sat + on a stool near by, and, strange to say, slept sound through the + long, dismal night. He had been shown his bed up through a hole on + top of the shanty. He said one look was sufficient. Men were strewn + as thick as possible on the floor in their blankets. The steam + generated from their wet clothes, boots, and blankets was stifling. + One small hole cut through the roof was the only ventilation. + + "As soon as breakfast was over the next morning, we mounted into a + wagon without springs and proceeded on our journey. The governor + took M. in his arms to keep her from being jolted. There surely were + no worse roads to be found anywhere in the world than this. The + horses went deep in the mud every step; the wheels sank to the hub, + and often had to be pried up. We forded rivers, the water coming + above our ankles in the wagon. Many big, deep holes they would jump + over, making the horses run quick, when the wagon would jump across, + shaking us up fearfully. In one of these holes our horses fell down, + and we stuck fast in the mud. We were taken from the wagon by men of + our party plunging up to their knees in the mud, and carrying us out + by sheer force of their strength. After seating us upon a fallen + log, the horses were with difficulty extricated from the mud. After + another long day's tiresome travel we stopped at a log-house for the + night. Upon entering from the porch we found a big room, with a wood + fire filling up one side, blazing and crackling, low chairs in + front; in the centre of the room was a table with a clean cloth on + it, and a repast of well-cooked food, relishing and abundant, was + placed upon it, to which we did ample justice. Our host was an + Englishman, a farmer, who was getting on well, a genial, hospitable + man. His wife was a superior woman. She had crossed the plains with + her first husband. On the journey they were surrounded by Indians. + He was killed. She was taken prisoner by these savages, and after + passing through untold suffering she managed to make her escape, and + after walking hundreds of miles, living upon berries by the way, she + came into the Dalles, a forlorn, starved woman, almost destitute of + clothing, with her boy ten years of age. It was here our host met + her and offered shelter to her child and herself, which she gladly + accepted, and finally became his wife. She was a fine-looking woman + and a thorough housekeeper, but had the saddest expression on her + face. At night she took us across the yard into another log-house, + where we found a bright fire burning on the hearth, and nice, clean + beds. I felt like staying in this comfortable shelter, hearing the + rain patter on the roof, until the rainy season was over, at least." + +The host referred to was John R. Jackson. His farm was only ten miles +from Cowlitz Landing, but the roads were in such wretched state that a +whole day was consumed in traveling this short distance. + +After a cheerful breakfast the next morning, the journey was resumed. +George W. Stevens and several other gentlemen came out to meet the +governor and family, and escorted them to Olympia. The governor mounted +his horse Charlie, which he purchased of the Red River half-breeds, and +which was brought out to him. This was a great, powerful gray charger, +of high spirit, and able to cover twelve miles an hour in a swinging +trot without distress. It was another rainy, drizzling day. The road was +almost impassable. At Saunders's Bottom, where the town of Chehalis now +stands, the mud was knee-deep for two miles, terribly wearing on the +animals. At length, after fording the Skookumchuck at its mouth, and +traversing an extensive prairie, the wet, tired, and bedraggled party +reached the log-house of Judge Sidney S. Ford, and found hospitable +shelter for the night, having traveled about twenty-five miles that day. + +The next day the party reached Olympia late in the afternoon, after a +thirty miles' journey over much better and pleasanter roads, traversing +prairies over half the distance, including Grand Mound, Little Mound, +and Bush's prairies. It was a dreary, dark, December day. It had rained +considerably. The road from Tumwater to Olympia was ankle-deep in mud, +and thridded a dense forest with a narrow track. With expectations +raised at the idea of seeing the capital and chief town of the +Territory, the weary travelers toiled up a small hill in the edge of the +timber, reached the summit, and eagerly looked to see the future +metropolis. Their hearts sank with bitter disappointment as they +surveyed the dismal and forlorn scene before them. A low, flat neck of +land, running into the bay, down it stretched the narrow, muddy track, +winding among the stumps which stood thickly on either side; twenty +small wooden houses bordered the road, while back of them on the left +and next the shore were a number of Indian lodges, with canoes drawn up +on the beach, and Indians and dogs lounging about. The little hill +mentioned is where now stands the Masonic Building, opposite the Olympia +Hotel. The site of the Indian camp is now Columbia Street, between Third +and Fourth. There were only one or two buildings above, or south of, +Sixth Street. The public square was a tangle of fallen timber. Main +Street terminated in Giddings's Wharf, which was left high and dry at +low tide. + +Mrs. Stevens continues her account as follows:-- + + "At night we were told, on ascending a hill, 'There is Olympia.' + Below us, in the deep mud, were a few low, wooden houses, at the + head of Puget Sound. My heart sank, for the first time in my life, + at the prospect. After ploughing through the mud, we stopped at the + principal hotel, to stay until our house was ready for us. As we + went upstairs there were a number of people standing about to see + the governor and his family. I was very much annoyed at their + staring and their remarks, which they made audibly, and hastened to + get in some private room, where I could make myself better prepared + for an inspection. Being out in rains for many days had not improved + our appearance or clothes. But there seemed no rest for the weary. + Upon being ushered into the public parlor I found people from far + and near had been invited to inspect us. The room was full. The sick + child was cross, and took no notice of anything that was said to + her. One of the women saying aloud, 'What a cross brat that is!' I + could stand it no longer, but opened a door and went into a large + dancing-hall, and soon after, when the governor came to look me up, + I was breaking my heart over the forlorn situation I found myself + in,--cold, wet, uncomfortable, no fire, shaking with chills. What a + prospect! How I longed to find myself back in my childhood's home, + among good friends and relatives! Just then we were told we were + expected across the street. The governor had his office there, and + had us taken directly there. It was a happy change. We went into a + large, cheerful room, with the beds on the floor, a bright fire + burning, book-cases filled with books smiling upon us. We soon had a + good repast, and felt comfortable at last. In a few days we were at + housekeeping, very pleasant indeed, all picking up in health, and + good friends around us. + + "Many of the people called on me. I found them pleasant and + agreeable people; many of them were well-educated and interesting + young ladies who had come here with their husbands, government + officials, and who had given up their city homes to live in this + unknown land, surrounded by Indians and dense forests. + + "I remained three years at Olympia, a great part of the time living + alone with the children, the governor being away in all parts of the + Territory, making treaties with the Indians, planning and arranging + the settlement of the country. There was a pleasant company of + officers, with their wives, stationed at Steilacoom, twenty miles + from Olympia, with whom I became acquainted, and had visits from and + visited. Naval ships came up Puget Sound with agreeable officers on + board. I had a horse to ride on horseback across the lovely + prairies. Almost daily I took a ride about the picturesque, + beautiful country, with the rich, dense forests and snowy mountains, + green little prairies skirted by timber, lakes of deep, clear water, + all of which was new to me, affording great pleasure in exploring + Indian trails and country, which was completely new. I also had a + boat built, in which I made excursions down the Sound. About two + miles down there was a Catholic mission, a large, dark house or + monastery, surrounded by cultivated land, a fine garden in front + filled with flowers, bordered on one side, next the water, with + immense bushes of wall-flowers in bloom; the fragrance, resembling + the sweet English violet, filling the air with its delicious odor. + Father Ricard, the venerable head of this house, was from Paris. He + had lived in this place more than twenty years. He had with him + Father Blanchet, a short, thickset man, who managed everything + pertaining to the temporal comfort of the mission. Under him were + servants who were employed in various ways, baking, cooking, + digging, and planting. Their fruit was excellent and a great rarity, + as there was but one more orchard in the whole country. There was a + large number of Flatheads settled about them, who had been taught to + count their beads, say prayers, and were good Catholics in all + outward observances; chanted the morning and evening prayers, which + they sang in their own language in a low, sweet strain, which, the + first time I heard it, sitting in my boat at sunset, was impressive + and solemn. We went often to visit Father Ricard, who was a highly + educated man, who seemed to enjoy having some one to converse with + in his own language. He said the Canadians used such bad French." + +Mrs. Stevens was still suffering from the Panama fever, and it was a +year before she and little Maude recovered from it. The new quarters +consisted of two long, one-story wooden buildings, one room wide, little +more than sheds, hired of Father Ricard at $900 a year. They were +cheaply built, without plastering, but lined inside with cotton cloth. +There was a narrow passageway between them, from which doors gave access +to the different rooms. In rear was a large yard, extending to the +beach, upon which a gate in the rear fence opened, and where a boat was +kept. The Indian camp began at the corner of the yard. The governor had +secured two men servants, Agnew as cook, and W.F. Seely, man of all +work. The latter was a lusty young Irishman, strong as a bull and quick +as a cat, witty, boastful, brave, and devoted to the governor and his +family. He was a member of the exploring party, where he had fought and +beaten all the pugilistic heroes up to the wagon-master, C.P. Higgins, +by whom he had been handsomely vanquished, and whom he regarded ever +after with great admiration and esteem. + +The family soon felt at home in the new abode, amid the novel scenes and +experiences, and cheered by new and old friends. George Stevens, Mason, +and Lieutenant Arnold came in and out like brothers. There were Evans +and Kendall, who came with the exploration; Major H. A. Goldsborough, +George Gibbs, Colonel Simmons, Frank Shaw, and Orrington Cushman, known +as "Old Cush," with his great red beard, a great favorite with children, +and liked and trusted by both whites and Indians. Major James Tilton, +the surveyor-general, arrived with his family after a voyage around the +Horn,--a man of soldierly bearing and aristocratic tastes, who was to +render valuable service. Captain J. Cain also arrived, as Indian +agent,--a typical Indiana politician, but a man of parts and integrity +and public spirit, and a true friend. + +The second legislature met on December 4, and the governor on the 5th +delivered his message in person. + +After acknowledging the consideration shown him as their executive, and +congratulating them on the flattering prospects of the Territory, he +recommended them to memorialize Congress for roads, mail service, +steamer lines, etc., and other needs, and mentioned with regret the +failure of Congress to provide for objects for which he had earnestly +striven, viz., the extinction of the Hudson Bay Company's claims, the +running of the northern boundary line, and a geological survey of the +coal measures. He urged the organization of an effective militia, +referring to the danger of Indian hostilities, his recommendation to the +first legislature, and to the fact that the government had refused his +recent applications for arms because the militia was not organized. He +summed up the results of his exploration in saying: "Beautiful prairies +and delightful valleys, easy passes practicable at all seasons of the +year, have taken the place of savage deserts and mountain defiles +impracticable half the year from snow.... The more the country is +examined, the better it develops." + +In closing he invoked their support of his efforts in behalf of the +Indians:-- + + "I will indulge the hope that the same spirit of concord and exalted + patriotism, which has thus far marked our political existence, will + continue to the end. Particularly do I invoke that spirit in + reference to our Indian relations. I believe the time has now come + for their final settlement. In view of the important duties which + have been assigned to me, I throw myself unreservedly upon the + people of the Territory, not doubting that they will extend to me a + hearty and generous support in my efforts to arrange on a permanent + basis the future of the Indians of this Territory." + +Referring to the military road across the Nahchess Pass, he said:-- + + "It would be a great benefit to those traveling this road should the + legislature take some step toward sowing with grass-seed the small + prairie known as the Bare Prairie, situated a little below the mouth + of Green River, as also the sides of the mountain known as La Tête. + These points are intermediate in a long distance destitute of grass, + and are almost necessarily stopping-places on the march. A very + small sum would cover the expense of planting them, and the + advantage would be incalculable." + +This humane and sensible suggestion was turned into ridicule and +defeated by one of those wiseacres, strong in their own conceit and +ignorance, that infest most assemblies, who cried out, "Governor Stevens +needn't try to make grass grow where God Almighty didn't make it grow." + +There was great jealousy on the part of the settlers of the far-reaching +claims of the Hudson Bay Company, and under the influence of this +feeling the council requested the governor to communicate any +information he had as to the manner in which Congress arrived at the +estimated amount of $300,000 as the value of such claims. The attentions +paid him by the officers of that company, in their open efforts to gain +his goodwill and support, were well known, and, with the fact that an +appropriation of the above amount for extinguishing the claims had +passed the Senate, had excited some mistrust as to the governor's action +and attitude on that important question. In reply he simply gave a +synopsis of his report to the State Department, which set all doubts at +rest. + +FOOTNOTES: + + [10] Governor Stevens's own statement. See Bancroft's _Pacific + States_, vol. xxvi. p. 117, note. + + + + + CHAPTER XXV + + INDIAN POLICY.--TREATIES ON PUGET SOUND + + +Governor Stevens regarded his Indian treaties and Indian policy, and his +management of the Indians of the Northwest, as among the most important, +beneficial, and successful services he rendered the country. By ten +treaties and many councils and talks, he extinguished the Indian title +to a domain larger than New England; and by the Blackfoot council and +treaty he made peace between those fierce savages and the whites and all +the surrounding tribes, and permanently pacified a region equally +extensive, embracing the greater part of Montana and northern Idaho; and +during the four years, 1853-56, he treated and dealt with over thirty +thousand Indians, divided into very numerous and independent tribes and +bands, and occupying the whole vast region from the Pacific to and +including the plains of the upper Missouri, and now comprising the +States of Washington, part of Oregon, northern Idaho, and the greater +part of Montana. Moreover, by gaining the wavering friendship and +fidelity of doubtful tribes, and even many members of the disaffected, +he frustrated the well-planned efforts of the hostile Indians to bring +about a universal outbreak, and saved the infant settlements from +complete annihilation at the hands of the treacherous savages. + +His Indian policy was one of great beneficence to the Indians, jealously +protected their interests, and provided for their improvement and +eventual civilization, while at the same time it opened the country for +settlement by the whites. The wisdom with which it was planned, and the +ability and energy with which it was carried out, during this brief +period, are attested by the remarkable success which attended it, and by +the fact that many of these tribes are to-day living under those very +treaties, and have made substantial progress towards civilized habits. +It is believed that in their extent and magnitude, in their difficulties +and dangers, and in the permanence and beneficence of their results, +these operations are without parallel in the history of the country. Yet +for several years Governor Stevens's Indian treaties were bitterly +assailed and misrepresented both by hostile Indians and by officers high +in authority; their confirmation was refused by the United States +Senate, and he himself was made the target for virulent abuse. It was +his intention to write the history of these operations, an intention +which the pressure of public duties during the few remaining years of +his life, and his early death, prevented. In his final report on the +Northern route he remarks, in words of manly fortitude and confidence:-- + + "I trust the time will come when my treaty operations of 1855,--the + most extensive operations ever undertaken and carried out in these + latter days of our history,--I repeat, I trust the time will come + when I shall be able to vindicate them, and show that they were wise + and proper, and that they accomplished a great end. They have been + very much criticised and very much abused; but I have always felt + that history will do those operations justice. I have not been + impatient as to time, but have been willing that my vindication + should come at the end of a term of years. Let short-minded men + denounce and criticise ignorantly and injuriously, and let time show + that the government made no mistake in the man whom it placed in the + great field of duty as its commissioner to make treaties with the + Indian tribes." + +And in another place he adds:-- + + + "I intend at some future day to give a very full account of these + large operations in the Indian service." + +In his journey across the plains, amid all the cares and labors of the +great exploration, Governor Stevens took the utmost pains, by messages, +talks, and councils to and with the Blackfeet and other tribes, to +prepare them for the great council and peace treaty which he saw was +necessary for the opening and settlement of the country, and on arriving +in his own Territory was equally indefatigable in impressing upon the +Indians there the advantages of living at peace with the white man, of +adopting his better mode of livelihood, and of securing the aid and +protection of the Great Father in Washington. Among his first acts was +the appointment of Indian agents, and sending them to urge these views +upon the tribes. It was high time for judicious and prompt action; for +the Indians, especially the powerful and warlike tribes of the upper +Columbia, were becoming alarmed at the way the whites were pouring into +the country, and, under the invitation of Congress given by the Donation +Acts, were taking up their choicest lands without asking their consent. +On his recent visit in Washington he had impressed his views upon the +government, obtained its sanction and authorization for the Blackfoot +council, and the necessary authority and funds for treating with the +Indians of his own superintendency. He now planned treating first with +the tribes on Puget Sound and west of the Cascades for the cession of +their lands, then with the great tribes occupying the country between +the Cascades and Rocky Mountains for their lands, and then, crossing the +Rockies, to proceed to Fort Benton, accompanied by delegations from the +hunting tribes of Washington and Oregon, and there hold the great +pre-arranged peace council with the Blackfeet, Crows, and Assiniboines +of the plains east of the mountains, and the Nez Perces, Flatheads, Pend +Oreilles, etc., of the western slope. + +Immediately on his return to Olympia the governor sent out the agents +and messengers to assemble the Sound Indians at designated points for +council and treaty making, and early in January dispatched Mr. Doty with +a small party east of the Cascades to make the preliminary arrangements +for bringing together in council the Indians of that region. + +The Indians on the Sound, including those on the Strait of Fuca, +numbered some eight thousand five hundred, and were divided into a great +many tribes and bands. They were canoe Indians, and drew most of their +food from the waters, chiefly salmon and shell-fish, eked out with game, +roots, and berries. Those about the upper Sound had bands of ponies, +with which they roamed the prairies in summer. They lived in large +lodges, several families together, constructed of planks split from the +cedar, with nearly flat roofs, and often thirty or forty feet long and +twenty wide. They showed no little artistic skill in their canoes, +paddles, spears, fish-hooks, basket-work impervious to water, and mats +of rushes. Out of a single cedar-tree, with infinite pains and labor, +they hewed and burned the most graceful and beautiful and finest canoe +ever seen, the very model, in lines and run, of a clipper ship. These +varied in size from the little fishing-craft, holding but two persons, +to a great canoe carrying thirty. They held as slaves the captives taken +in war and their descendants, and, singularly enough, the heads of the +slaves were left in their natural state, while the skulls of the +free-born were flattened by pressure during infancy into the shape of a +shovel. Many of the bands were remnants of former large tribes, for they +had been greatly diminished in numbers by the ravages of smallpox and +venereal disease. They lacked the energy and courage of the Indians of +the upper country, and lived in perpetual dread of the gigantic and +savage northern Indians,--the Hydahs and other bands of Tlinkits of +British Columbia and Alaska,--who would periodically swoop down the +coast in their great war canoes and raid these feebler folk, ruthlessly +slaughtering the men, and enslaving the women and children. They +suffered also, but to a less degree, from incursions of bands of Yakimas +across the mountains, equally on trade and plunder bent, whom they +designated "Klikitats," or robbers, a term which has been taken as a +tribal name. To these dangers were now added the fear of the +all-powerful and ever-increasing whites. Thus situated and thus +apprehensive, the messages and exhortations of the governor promising +them protection, pointing out the way of bettering their condition, and +of even imitating the envied superior race, broke upon them like a +lighthouse in a dark night upon the storm-tossed mariner, relieved their +fears and anxieties, and gave them hope. They hastened to assemble at +the appointed council grounds, eager to listen to the new white chief, +and to learn what he offered from the Great Father for their benefit. + +On December 7, only two days after delivering his message to the +legislature, Governor Stevens organized his treaty-making force by +appointing James Doty secretary, George Gibbs surveyor, H.A. +Goldsborough commissary, and B.F. Shaw interpreter, Colonel M.T. Simmons +having already been appointed agent. The governor assembled these +gentlemen to confer upon the projected treaties. After giving his views, +and showing the necessity of speedily treating with the Indians and +placing them on reservations, he had Mr. Doty read certain treaties with +the Missouri and Omaha tribes, which contained provisions he deemed +worthy of adoption, and invited a general and thorough discussion of the +whole subject. So many points were settled by this frank and free +interchange of views that Mr. Gibbs was directed to draw up a programme, +or outline of a treaty, which on the next meeting on the 10th, after +discussion and some changes, was adopted as the basis of the treaties to +be made with the tribes on the Sound, coast, and lower Columbia. + +No better advisers could have been found than the men with whom he thus +took counsel; and one is struck by the clever and considerate way in +which he secured the best fruits of their knowledge and experience, and +enlisted their best efforts in carrying out the work. Simmons and Shaw +were old frontiersmen, among the earliest settlers, and had dealt much +with, and thoroughly understood, the Indians, and were respected and +trusted by them. Simmons has been justly termed the Daniel Boone of +Washington Territory. Shaw was said to be the only man who could make or +translate a speech in Chinook jargon offhand, as fast as a man could +talk in his own vernacular. The Chinook jargon was a mongrel lingo, made +up for trading purposes by the fur-traders from English, French, and +Indian words, and had become the common speech between whites and +Indians, and between Indians of different tribes and tongues. He greatly +distinguished himself afterwards in the Indian war as lieutenant-colonel +of volunteers. Gibbs and Goldsborough were men of education, and had +lived in the country long enough to know the general situation and +conditions, and to learn much about the Indians. Gibbs, indeed, made a +study of the different tribes, and rendered an able report upon them as +part of the Northern Pacific Railroad exploration. Doty, a son of +ex-Governor Doty, of Wisconsin, was a young man of uncommon ability and +energy, who had spent the preceding winter at Fort Benton, and had +studied and made a census of the Blackfeet. + +The salient features of the policy outlined were as follows:-- + +1. To concentrate the Indians upon a few reservations, and encourage +them to cultivate the soil and adopt settled and civilized habits. + +2. To pay for their lands not in money, but in annuities of blankets, +clothing, and useful articles during a long term of years. + +3. To furnish them with schools, teachers, farmers and farming +implements, blacksmiths, and carpenters, with shops of those trades. + +4. To prohibit wars and disputes among them. + +5. To abolish slavery. + +6. To stop as far as possible the use of liquor. + +7. As the change from savage to civilized habits must necessarily be +gradual, they were to retain the right of fishing at their accustomed +fishing-places, and of hunting, gathering berries and roots, and +pasturing stock on unoccupied land as long as it remained vacant. + +8. At some future time, when they should have become fitted for it, the +lands of the reservations were to be allotted to them in severalty. + +"It was proposed," reported the governor, "to remove all the Indians on +the east side of the Sound as far as the Snohomish, as also the +S'Klallams, to Hood's Canal, and generally to admit as few reservations +as possible, with a view of finally concentrating them in one." It was +found necessary, however, in consequence of the mutual jealousies of so +many independent tribes, to allow more reservations than he first +intended, but some of them were established temporarily, with the right +reserved in the President to remove the Indians to the larger +reservations in the future. + +The schooner R.B. Potter, Captain E.S. Fowler, was chartered at $700 per +month, manned and victualed by the owner, to transport the _personnel_ +and treaty goods from point to point on the Sound. Orrington Cushman, +Sidney S. Ford, Jr., and Henry D. Cock, with several assistants, were +employed as quartermasters, to prepare camps and council grounds, make +surveys, etc. + +In all his councils Governor Stevens took the greatest pains to make the +Indians understand what was said to them. To insure this he always had +several interpreters, to check each other and prevent mistakes in +translation, and was accustomed to consult the chiefs as to whom they +wanted as interpreters. + + "It was my invariable custom," he states in the introduction to his + final railroad report, page 18, "whenever I assembled a tribe in + council, to procure from them their own rude sketches of the + country, and a map was invariably prepared on a large scale and + shown to them, exhibiting not only the region occupied by them, but + the reservations that were proposed to be secured to them. At the + Blackfoot council, the map there exhibited of the Blackfoot + country--of the hunting-ground common to the Blackfeet and the + Assiniboines, of the hunting-ground common to the Blackfeet and the + tribes of Washington Territory, and of the passes of the Rocky + Mountains by which this hunting-ground was reached--was the + effective agent in guaranteeing to the Indians the exact facts as to + what the treaty did propose, and to give them absolute and entire + confidence in the government." + +He always urged and encouraged the Indians to make known their own +views, wishes, and objections, and gave them time to talk matters over +among themselves and make up their minds. Between the sessions of the +council he would have the agents and interpreters explain the terms and +point out the benefits of the proposed treaty, and would frequently +summon the chiefs to his tent, and personally explain matters to them, +and draw out their ideas. He also frequently invited public officers, +and citizens of standing, to attend the councils, and would make use of +them also to talk with and satisfy the Indians. All the proceedings of +these councils, the deliberations and speeches as well as the treaties, +were every word carefully taken down in writing, and transmitted to the +Indian Bureau in Washington, where they are now on file. No one can read +these records without being impressed with Governor Stevens's great +benevolence towards the Indians, and the absolute fairness, candor, and +patience, as well as the judgment and tact, he manifested in dealing +with them. One is also likely to be enlightened as to the native +intelligence, ability, and shrewdness of the Indians themselves. + +The first council was held on She-nah-nam, or Medicine Creek, now known +as McAlister's Creek, a mile above its mouth on the right bank, just +below the house of Hartman, on a rising and wooded spot a few acres in +extent, like an island with the creek on the one side (south) and the +tide-marsh on the other. This stream flows along the south side of the +Nisqually bottom, parallel to and half a mile from the river. The +governor and his party, including Mason, Lieutenant W.A. Slaughter, of +the 4th infantry, Doty, Gibbs, Edward Giddings, and the governor's son, +Hazard, a boy of twelve, went down to the treaty ground by canoes on +December 24, and found a large space cleared of underbrush, the tents +pitched, and everything made ready for the council by Simmons, Shaw, +Cock, Cushman, and others, who had been sent ahead for that purpose. +Seven hundred Indians of the tribes dwelling upon the upper Sound and as +far down as the Puyallup River, including the Nisqually, Puyallup, and +Squaxon tribes, were encamped near by. It rained nearly all day. In the +afternoon the Indians drove a large band of ponies across the creek, +forcing them to swim. Provisions were issued to the chiefs to distribute +among their people. + +On the following day the Indians assembled, taking seats on the ground +in front of the council tent in semi-circular rows, and the objects and +points of the proposed treaty were fully explained to them. The governor +would utter a sentence in simple and clear language, and Colonel Shaw +would interpret it in the Chinook jargon, which nearly all the Indians +understood. The governor was extremely careful to make the Indians +comprehend every sentence. Colonel Simmons, Gibbs, Cushman, and the +citizens present, all knew the Chinook, and attentively followed Shaw as +he interpreted, so that no mistake or omission could occur. It was slow +and fatiguing work, this going over the ground sentence by sentence, and +after several hours the Indians were dismissed for the day, told to +think over what they had heard, and to assemble again the next morning. +The governor wished to give them time to fully understand and reflect +upon the proposed treaty, and encouraged them to talk freely to himself +or any of his assistants in regard to it. + +On the 26th the Indians assembled about nine o'clock to the number of +650, and Governor Stevens addressed them as follows:-- + + "This is a great day for you and for us, a day of peace and + friendship between you and the whites for all time to come. You are + about to be paid for your lands, and the Great Father has sent me + to-day to treat with you concerning the payment. The Great Father + lives far off. He has many children. Some of those children came + here when he knew but little of them, or of the Indians, and he sent + me to inquire about these things. We went through this country this + last year, learned your numbers and saw your wants. We felt much for + you, and went to the Great Father to tell him what we had seen. The + Great Father felt for his children. He pitied them, and he has sent + me here to-day to express these feelings, and to make a treaty for + your benefit. The Great Father has many white children who come + here, some to build mills, some to make farms, and some to fish; + and the Great Father wishes you to learn to farm, and your children + to go to a good school; and he now wants me to make a bargain with + you, in which you will sell your lands, and in return be provided + with all these things. You will have certain lands set apart for + your homes, and receive yearly payments of blankets, axes, etc. All + this is written down in this paper, which will be read to you. If it + is good you will sign it, and I will then send it to the Great + Father. I think he will be pleased with it and say it is good, but + if not, if he wishes it different, he will say so and send it back; + and then, if you agree to it, it is a fixed bargain, and payments + will be made." + +The treaty was then read section by section and explained to the +Indians, and every opportunity given them to discuss it. + +Governor Stevens then said:-- + + "The paper has been read to you. Is it good? If it is good, we will + sign it; but if you dislike it in any point, say so now. After + signing we have some goods to give you, and next summer will give + you some more; and after that you must wait until the paper comes + back from the Great Father. The goods now given are not in payment + for your lands; they are merely a friendly present." + +The Indians had some discussion, and Governor Stevens then put the +question: "Are you ready? If so, I will sign it." There were no +objections, and the treaty was then signed by Governor I.I. Stevens, and +the chiefs, delegates, and headmen on the part of the Indians, and duly +witnessed by the secretary, special agent, and seventeen citizens +present. + +The presents and provisions were then given to the chiefs, who +distributed them among their people. Towards evening Mr. Swan arrived +with twenty-nine Indians of the Puyallup tribe, and reported twenty more +on the way. They had started three days before, but had been detained by +bad weather. The governor decided to send them presents from Olympia. + +Thus it will be seen that the governor first explained the objects and +terms of the treaty generally, and the next day had the text of it read +to them and also explained. The idea of selling their lands and being +paid for them was not new to the Indians, for the settlers were in the +habit of assuring them, when they objected and complained at the +appropriation and fencing up of their choicest camping, root, and berry +grounds, that the Great Father would soon pay them well for their +country. + +The scope and policy of the treaty will best appear by the following +abstract of its thirteen articles:-- + +1. The Indians cede their land to the United States, comprising the +present counties of Thurston, Pierce, and parts of Mason and King. + +2. Sets off and describes the reservations, viz., Klah-she-min Island, +known as Squaxon Island, situated opposite the mouths of Hammersley's +and Totten's inlets, and separated from Hartstene Island by Pearl +Passage, containing about two sections of land, or 1280 acres, a square +tract of two sections near and south of the mouth of McAlister's Creek, +and another equal tract on the south side of Commencement Bay, now +covered by the city of Tacoma. Provision is made for the Indians to +remove to these reservations, and for roads through them and from them +to the nearest public highways. + +3. Gives the Indians the right of fishing at their accustomed grounds, +except the right of taking shell-fish from beds staked out or cultivated +by citizens, and the rights of hunting, gathering berries and roots, and +pasturing herds on unclaimed land. + +4. $32,500 to be paid in annuities of goods, clothing, and useful +articles during the next twenty years. + +5. And $3250 to be expended in aiding the Indians to settle on their +reservations. + +6. Empowers the President to remove the Indians to other reservations, +when the interests of the Territory require it, by remunerating them for +their improvements. + +7. Prohibits the use of annuities to pay the debts of individuals. + +8. Prohibits war or depredations, and the Indians agree to submit all +grievances to the government for settlement. + +9. Excludes ardent spirits from the reservations on penalty of +withholding annuities. + +10. Provides at a central or general agency a free school, a blacksmith +shop, and a carpenter shop, and to furnish a blacksmith, a carpenter, a +farmer, and teachers, all to give instructions for twenty years. + +11. Frees all slaves and abolishes slavery. + +12. Prohibits the Indians from trading outside the dominions of the +United States, and forbids foreign Indians to reside on the reservations +without the permission of the superintendent or agent. + +13. The treaty to go into effect as soon as ratified by the President +and Senate. + +The twelfth article was aimed against the liquor traffic, and also to +counteract the undue influence of the Hudson Bay Company. It carried out +the idea expressed in the governor's instructions to McClellan and +Saxton at the outset of the exploration, already quoted. "The Indians +must look to us for protection and counsel.... I am determined, in my +intercourse with the Indians, to break up the ascendency of the Hudson +Bay Company, and permit no authority or sanction to come between the +Indians and the officers of this government." + +Sixty-two Indians signed this treaty, "chiefs, headmen, and delegates of +the Nisqually, Puyallup, Steilacoom, Squawksin, S'Homamish, Steh-chass, +T'Peek-sin, Squiaitl, and Sa-ha-wamish tribes and bands of Indians, +occupying the lands lying around the head of Puget Sound and the +adjacent inlets, who, for the purpose of this treaty, are to be regarded +as one nation." The Indians all made their marks to their names as +written out in full by the secretary. They were: Qui-ee-metl, +Sno-ho-dum-set, Lesh-high, Slip-o-elm, Kwi-ats, Sta-hi, Di-a-keh, +Hi-ten, Squa-ta-hun, Kahk-tse-min, So-nan-o-youtl, Kl-tehp, Sahl-ko-min, +T'Bet-ste-heh-bit, Tcha-hoos-tan, Ke-cha-hat, Spee-peh, Swe-yah-tum, +Chah-achsh, Pich-kehd, S'Klah-o-sum, Sah-le-tatl, See-lup, E-la-kah-ka, +Slug-yeh, Hi-nuk, Ma-mo-nish, Cheels, Knut-ca-nu, Bats-ta-ko-be, +Win-ne-ya, Klo-out, Se-uch-ka-nam, Ske-mah-han, Wuts-un-a-pum, +Quuts-a-tadm, Quut-a-heh-mtsn, Yah-leh-chn, To-tahl-kut, Yul-lout, +See-ahts-oot-soot, Ye-tah-ko, We-po-it-ee, Kah-sld, La'h-hom-kan, +Pah-how-at-ish, Swe-yehm, Sah-hwill, Se-kwaht, Kah-hum-kit, Yah-kwo-bah, +Wut-sah-le-wun, Sah-ba-hat, Tel-e-kish, Swe-keh-nam, Sit-oo-ah, +Ko-quel-a-cut, Jack, Keh-kise-be-lo, Go-yeh-hn, Sah-putsh, William. + +Lesh-high, the third signer, was the principal chief and instigator of +the Indian war that broke out the following year, and, after the +outbreak was suppressed, was tried and executed for the murder of +settlers, after an excited controversy and strenuous efforts to save him +on the part of some of the regular officers. Born of a Yakima mother, he +was a chief of unusual intelligence and energy, had much to do with the +Hudson Bay Company's people at Fort Nisqually, by whom he was much +trusted as a guide and hunter, and was supposed to be well affected +towards the whites. The first signer, Qui-ee-muth, was Lesh-high's +brother, and met with a more tragic fate, being slain by a revengeful +settler after he was captured. Sta-hi, the fifth signer, was killed +during the Indian war. + +The witnesses who signed the treaty, nineteen in number, including +well-known public men and pioneers, were the following: M.T. Simmons, +Indian agent; James Doty, secretary; C.H. Mason, secretary of the +Territory; W.A. Slaughter, 1st lieutenant, 4th infantry, U.S. A.; James +McAlister, E. Giddings, Jr., George Shazer, Henry D. Cock, Orrington +Cushman, S.S. Ford, Jr., John W. McAlister, Peter Anderson, Samuel +Klady, W.H. Pullen, F.O. Hough, E.R. Tyerall, George Gibbs, Benjamin F. +Shaw, interpreter, Hazard Stevens. + +The governor became satisfied at a later date that the reservations set +off for the Nisquallies and Puyallups were inadequate for their future +needs, being of inferior soil and heavily timbered, and in 1856 caused +them to be exchanged for two larger tracts of fine, fertile bottom +land,--one on the Nisqually, a few miles above its mouth, and the other +at the mouth of the Puyallup River, directly opposite the city of +Tacoma, which the Indians still occupy. + +In the evening, after the council broke up, the governor had another +long conference with his advisory board, and settled the points and +programme for other treaties. The next morning, directing Gibbs to +survey the lines of the two reservations on Nisqually and Commencement +bays, and dispatching Simmons and Shaw with the rest of the party in the +schooner to the lower Sound to assemble the Indians for the remaining +treaties, he returned to Olympia with Mason and Doty. The treaty was +immediately forwarded to Washington, and was ratified by the Senate, +March 3, 1855, but little over two months after the council. + + + THE TREATY OF POINT ELLIOTT. + +The next council was held at Mukilteo, or Point Elliott, where, between +January 12 and 21, the Indians of the east side of the Sound assembled +to the number of 2300. On the latter date Governor Stevens arrived on +the Major Tompkins, accompanied by Secretary Mason, and by his friend, +Dr. C.M. Hitchcock, of San Francisco, who was visiting the country. +After a long conference with his assistants in regard to the most +suitable points for reservations, and the views and feelings of the +Indians, he appointed Gibbs secretary, in place of Doty, who had +departed on his mission east of the mountains, and directed him to +prepare the draft of a treaty embodying the points decided upon, and in +terms similar to the one recently concluded. + +The next morning the Indians all assembled; the four head +chiefs--Seattle, chief of the Duwhamish and other bands on White River +and the Sound within twenty miles of Seattle; Pat-ka-nim, chief of the +Snohomish; Goliah, chief of the Skagits; and Chow-its-hoot, chief of the +Bellingham Bay and island Indians--took seats in front on the ground; +the sub-chiefs occupied a second row, and the various tribes took places +behind them in separated groups. The governor then addressed them as +follows, Colonel Shaw interpreting:-- + + "My children, you are not my children because you are the fruit of + my loins, but because you are children for whom I have the same + feeling as if you were the fruit of my loins. You are my children + for whom I will strenuously labor all the days of my life until I + shall be taken hence. What will a man do for his own children? He + will see that they are well cared for; that they have clothes to + protect them against the cold and rain; that they have food to guard + them against hunger; and as for thirst, you have your own glorious + streams in which to quench it. I want you as my children to be fed + and clothed, and made comfortable and happy. I find that many of you + are Christians, and I saw among you yesterday the sign of the cross, + which I think the most holy of all signs. I address you therefore + mainly as Christians, who know that this life is a preparation for + the life to come. + + "You understand well my purpose, and you want now to know the + special things we propose to do for you. We want to place you in + homes where you can cultivate the soil, raising potatoes and other + articles of food, and where you may be able to pass in canoes over + the waters of the Sound and catch fish, and back to the mountains to + get roots and berries. The Great Father desires this, and why am I + able to say this? Here are two thousand men, women, and children, + who have always treated white men well. Did I not come through your + country one year since? Were not many of you now present witnesses + of the fact? [All said Governor Stevens came.] Did I then make + promises to you? [All said he did not.] I am glad to hear this, + because I came through your country, not to make promises, but to + know what you were, to know what you wanted, to know your + grievances, and to report to the Great Father about you. I have been + to the Great Father and told him your condition. Here on this Sound + you make journeys of three and four days, but I made a journey of + fifty days on your behalf. I told the Great Father I had traveled + six moons in reaching this country, and had never found an Indian + who would not give me food, raiment, and animals to forward me and + mine to the great country of the West. I told him that I was among + ten thousand Indians, and they took me to their lodges and offered + me all they had, and here I will pause and ask you again if you do + not know that I have been absent several months on this business? + [All shout, 'Yes.'] I went away, but I left a good and strong man in + my place. I call upon Governor Mason to speak to you." + +Mr. Mason then addressed them, and then the governor called upon Colonel +Simmons, who made them a speech in Chinook, at the conclusion of which +the Indians cheered. + +The governor then resumed:-- + + "The Great Father thinks you ought to have homes, and he wants you + to have a school where your children can learn to read, and can be + made farmers and be taught trades. He is willing you should catch + fish in the waters, and get roots and berries back in the mountains. + He wishes you all to be virtuous and industrious, and to become a + happy and prosperous community. Is this good, and do you want this? + If not, we will talk further. [All answer, 'We do.'] + + + "My children, I have simply told you the heart of the Great Father. + But the lands are yours, and we mean to pay you for them. We thank + you that you have been so kind to all the white children of the + Great Father who have come here from the East. Those white children + have always told you you would be paid for your lands, and we are + now here to buy them. + + "The white children of the Great Father, but no more his children + than you are, have come here, some to build mills, some to till the + land, and others to build and sail ships. My children, I believe + that I have got your hearts. You have my heart. We will put our + hearts down on paper, and then we will sign our names. I will send + that paper to the Great Father, and if he says it is good, it will + stand forever. I will now have the paper read to you, and all I ask + of you two thousand Indians is that you will say just what you + think, and, if you find it good, that your chiefs and headmen will + sign the same." + +Before the treaty was read, the Indians sung a mass, after the Roman +Catholic form, and recited a prayer. + + Governor Stevens: "Does any one object to what I have said? Does my + venerable friend Seattle object? I want Seattle to give his heart to + me and to his people." + + Seattle: "I look upon you as my father. All the Indians have the + same good feeling toward you, and will send it on the paper to the + Great Father. All of them--men, old men, women, and + children--rejoice that he has sent you to take care of them. My mind + is like yours; I don't want to say more. My heart is very good + towards Dr. Maynard [a physician who was present]; I want always to + get medicine from him." + + Governor Stevens: "My friend Seattle has put me in mind of one thing + which I had forgotten. You shall have a doctor to cure your bodies. + Now, my friends, I want you, if Seattle has spoken well, to say so + by three cheers. [Three cheers were given.] Now we call upon + Pat-ka-nim to speak his mind." + + Pat-ka-nim: "To-day I understood your heart as soon as you spoke. I + understood your talk plainly. God made my heart and those of my + people good and strong. It is good that we should give you our real + feelings today. We want everything as you have said, the doctor and + all. Such is the feeling of all the Indians. Our hearts are with the + whites. God makes them good towards the Americans." [Three cheers + were given for Pat-ka-nim.] + + Chow-its-hoot: "I do not want to say much. My heart is good. God has + made it good towards you. I work on the ground, raise potatoes, and + build houses. I have some houses at home. But I will stop building + if you wish, and will move to Cha-chu-sa. Now I have given you my + opinion, and that of my friends. Their feelings are all good, and + they will do as you say hereafter. My mind is the same as Seattle's. + I love him, and send my friends to him if they are sick. I go to Dr. + Maynard at Seattle if I am sick." [Cheers for Chow-its-hoot.] + + Goliah: "My mind is the same as the governor's. God has made it so. + I have no wish to say much. I am happy at heart. I am happy to hear + the governor talk of God. My heart is good and that of all my + friends. I give it to the governor. I shall be glad to have a doctor + for the Indians. We are all glad to hear you, and to be taken care + of by you. I do not want to say more." [Cheers were given for + Goliah.] + +The treaty was then read and interpreted to them, and the governor asked +them if they were satisfied with it. If they were, he would sign it +first, and then they should sign it. If not, he wished them to state in +what they desired it to be altered. All having signified their +approbation, it was signed first by Governor Stevens, and afterwards by +the chiefs and headmen. + +The hour being late when the signing was finished, the distribution of +the presents was deferred to the next day. + +Tuesday, January 23. The Indians having reassembled, Governor Stevens +informed them that he was about to distribute some presents. They were +not intended as payment for their lands, but merely as a friendly token +of regard. He gave them but few things at this time, but the next summer +he should again give them a larger present, when the goods intended for +them arrived. + +Seattle then brought a white flag, and presented it, saying: + + "Now, by this we make friends, and put away all bad feelings, if we + ever had any. We are the friends of the Americans. All the Indians + are of the same mind. We look upon you as our father. We will never + change our minds, but, since you have been to see us, we will always + be the same. Now! now! do you send this paper of our hearts to the + Great Chief. That is all I have to say." + +The presents were then given to the chiefs to distribute among their +people, the camp was struck, and the party embarked on board the +steamer, which had been chartered for the purpose of expediting the +preparations for the next council, that with the S'Klallams and +Sko-ko-mish, but, a heavy blow coming on, she lay at anchor till +morning. An Indian express arrived with news that the Indians were +collected at Fort Gamble, awaiting the arrival of the governor. + +The tribes, as enumerated in the treaty, furnish a long list of +unpronounceable Indian names, as follows: Dwamish, Suquamish, +Sk-tahl-mish, Sa-mah-mish, Smalh-ka-mish, Skope-ah-mish, Sno-qual-moo, +Skai-wha-mish, N'Quentl-ma-mish, Sk-tah-le-jum, Sto-luck-wha-mish, +Sno-ho-mish, Skagit, Kik-i-all-us, Swin-a-mish, Squin-a-mish, +Sah-ku-me-hu, Noo-wha-ha, Nook-wa-chah-mish, Me-see-qua-guilch, +Cho-bah-ah-bish, and others. + +The fifteen articles of this treaty contain the same general provisions +as that of She-nah-nam Creek. The territory ceded by Article 1 extends +from the summit of the Cascades to the middle of the Sound, and from the +49th parallel as far south as the Puyallup River, very nearly, and +comprises the present counties of King, part of Kitsap, Snohomish, +Skagit, Whatcom, Island, and San Juan. + +The reservations, Articles 2 and 3, included 1280 acres at Port Madison, +1280 acres on the east side of Fidalgo Island, and the island called +Chah-chu-sa in the Lummi River. An entire township on the northeast side +of Port Gardner, embracing Tulalip Bay, was made the principal +reservation, to which the Indians might be removed from the smaller +ones; $150,000 in annuities in goods, etc., for twenty years, and +$15,000 for improvements on the reservation were provided. The rights of +fishing, hunting, gathering berries and roots, and pasturage on vacant +land were secured to the Indians. Slavery was abolished, liquor +prohibited on the reservations, wars and depredations forbidden, and +trading in foreign dominions prohibited. A free school, teachers, +doctor, blacksmith and carpenter with shops, and a farmer were provided +for, and provision made for eventually allotting the reservations to +them in severalty. + +The first chief to sign the treaty was Seattle, after whom was named the +metropolis of the Sound; the next was Pat-ka-nim, then Chow-its-hoot, +then Goliah, and then follows the long list of guttural and sibillant +native names, unspeakable by white lips, some of which were accompanied +by an alias, as the Smoke, the Priest, General Washington, General +Pierce, Davy Crockett, etc. + +The treaty was witnessed by M.T. Simmons, C.H. Mason, Charles M. +Hitchcock, H.A. Goldsborough, George Gibbs, John H. Scranton, Henry D. +Cock, S.S. Ford, Jr., Orrington Cushman, Ellis Barnes, P. Bailey, S.M. +Collins, Lafayette Balch, E.S. Fowler, J.H. Hall, Robert Davis, and +Benjamin F. Shaw,--seventeen in number. + +The ratification of this and all Governor Stevens's subsequent Indian +treaties was delayed some four years in consequence of the Indian war +which broke out in the fall of 1855, and the misrepresentations made +concerning them, and the charges that they were the cause of the +war,--misrepresentations and charges originally started by the hostile +Indians, and taken up by prejudiced army officers and political and +personal enemies; and it was not until he entered Congress, and +personally vindicated his treaties before the government and Senate, +that they were ratified, on March 8, 1859. + + + TREATY OF HAHD-SKUS OR POINT-NO-POINT. + +The next council was held at Point-no-Point, on the west side of the +Sound, opposite the southern end of Whitby Island. The weather was very +stormy on the 24th and 25th, but twelve hundred Indians assembled here, +comprising the S'Klallams or Clallams, who occupied the shores from half +way down the Strait of Fuca to the council ground; the Chim-a-kums, of +Port Townsend Bay and the lower end of Hood's Canal; and the Skokomish +or Too-an-hooch, from Hood's Canal and the country about its southern +extremity. The Major Tompkins reached Point-no-Point on the 24th, and, +leaving the schooner at anchor, and the men on shore to form camp, ran +down to Port Townsend to bring up additional provisions, and returned in +the afternoon. On the 25th, notwithstanding the storm, the Indians +gathered at the council ground, and, having seated themselves in a +circular row under their chiefs, Governor Stevens addressed them as +follows:-- + + "My children, you call me your father. I, too, have a father, who is + your Great Father. That Great Father has sent me here to-day to pay + you for your lands, to provide for your children, to see that you + are fed, and that you are cared for. Your Great Father wishes you to + be happy, to be friends to each other. The Great Father wants you + and the whites to be friends; he wants you to have a house of your + own, to have a school where your children can learn. He wants you to + learn to farm, to learn to use tools, and also to have a doctor. + Now, all these things shall be written down in a paper; that paper + shall be read to you. If the paper is good, you will sign it and I + will sign it. I will then send the paper to the Great Father. If + the Great Father finds that paper good, he will send me word, and I + will let you know. The Great Father lives a long way off, and some + time will be required to hear from him. I want you to wait patiently + till you hear from him. In the mean time the Great Father has sent + to you some presents simply as a free gift. Some of these presents I + will give you to-day, but I shall give you more in the course of the + summer. You will also have your agent, Mr. Simmons, to take care of + you. This you will have all the time; and, when the paper comes from + the Great Father, then you will have your own houses and homes and + schools. Now, what have you to say? If good, give your assent; if + not, say so. Now, sit quiet a moment, and the paper will be read." + +After the treaty had been read and interpreted, Governor Stevens again +asked them if they had anything to say. + +Che-lan-teh-tat, an old Skokomish, then rose and said:-- + + "I wish to speak my mind as to selling the land. Great Chief, what + shall we eat if we do so? Our only food is berries, deer, and + salmon. Where, then, shall we find these? I don't want to sign away + all my land. Take half of it, and let us keep the rest. I am afraid + that I shall become destitute and perish for want of food. I don't + like the place you have chosen for us to live on. I am not ready to + sign that paper." + +S'Haie-at-seha-uk, a To-an-hooch, next spoke:-- + + "I do not want to leave the mouth of the river. I do not want to + leave my old home and my burying-ground. I am afraid I shall die if + I do." + +Dah-whil-luk, the Skokomish head chief, an old man, rose and said:-- + + "I do not want to sell my land, because it is valuable. The whites + pay a great deal for a small piece, and they get money by selling + the sticks [timber]. Formerly the Indians slept, but the whites came + among them and woke them up, and we now know that the lands are + worth much." + +Hool-hole-tan or Jim said:-- + + "I want to speak. I do not like the offers you make in the treaty to + us. You say you will give us land, but why should you give us the + mouth of the river? I don't like to go on a reservation with the + S'Klallams; and, in case of trouble, there are more of them than of + us, and they will charge us with it. Before the whites came among + us, we had no idea who made the land; but some time ago the priests + told us that the Great Chief above made it, and also made the + Indians. Since then the Americans have told us that the Great Father + always bought the land, and that it was not right to take it for + nothing. They waked the Indians up by this, and they now know their + land was worth much. I don't want to sign away my right to the land. + If it was myself alone I signed for, I would do it; but we have + women and children. Let us keep half of it, and take the rest. Why + should we sell all? We may become destitute. Why not let us live + together with you? I want you to hear what I have to say. All the + Indians have been afraid to talk, but I wish to speak and be + listened to." + +Chits-a-mah-han or the Duke of York, the head chief of the Clallams:-- + + "My heart is good. I am happy since I have heard the paper read, and + since I have understood Governor Stevens, particularly since I have + been told I could look for food where I pleased, and not in one + place only. Formerly the Indians were bad towards each other, but + Governor Stevens has made them agree to be friends. Before the + whites came we were always poor; since then we have earned money, + and got blankets and clothing. I hope the governor will tell the + whites not to abuse the Indians, as many are in the habit of doing, + ordering them to go away, and knocking them down." + +Other chiefs of the Clallams and of the Chem-a-cums followed in the same +strain as the Duke of York, approving the treaty. After further +explaining its provisions the governor adjourned the council to the +morrow at the request of the Skokomish chief, in order that they might +talk it over and understand it thoroughly. + +It will be observed that this treaty encountered considerable opposition +on the part of the Skokomish, who were, however, the most benefited by +it, as the reservation was located in their country. They were largely +influenced by the example of the other tribes, and after much discussion +among themselves, and talks between sessions with the governor and his +assistants, concluded to accept it. + +The next morning was a fine, pleasant one, and the Indians came to the +council bearing white flags. The governor addressed them, pointing out +that the treaty gave them all those things that a father would give his +children, as homes, schools, mechanics, and a doctor; the right to fish, +hunt, and gather roots and berries. Besides, it prohibited fire-water, +and does not a father prevent his children from drinking fire-water? The +Great Father was good to his children, and did not wish to steal their +lands. It was for them to say what they thought right. If they had +anything to say, say it now. + +The Duke of York then presented a white flag, saying: + + "My heart is white, so are those of my people, and we will never + stain it with blood." + +Dah-kwil-luk, the Skokomish chief, said:-- + + "My heart, too, has become white, and I give it to the chief. I put + away all bad feelings. I will be as a good man, not stealing or + shedding blood. We have thrown away the feelings of yesterday and + are now satisfied." + +He also presented a flag to the governor. + +Kul-kah-han, the Chem-a-cum chief, then presented his flag, saying:-- + + "We can say nothing but what this flag tells. We give our hearts to + you with it in return for what you do for us. We were once wretched, + but since you came you have made us right. Formerly other Indians + did wrong us, but since the whites came we are free and have not + been killed." + +Then all signed the treaty, and at a signal a salute was fired from the +steamer in honor of the event. + +Some hostile feelings having previously existed between the tribes, +Governor Stevens now declared that they must drop them forever, and that +their hearts towards each other should be good as well as towards the +whites. Accordingly the three head chiefs, in behalf of their people, +then shook hands. Then the presents were distributed to them. In the +afternoon the party reëmbarked, Mr. Mason returning to Olympia on the +steamer, and Governor Stevens with the remainder proceeding to Port +Townsend in the schooner, on his way to Cape Flattery, the next point of +meeting. + +The tribes mentioned in the treaty as parties thereto are the Skokomish, +To-an-hooch, Chem-a-cum, and S'Klallam, and the sub-bands of the last, +viz., Kah-tie, Squah-quaihtl, Tch-queen, Ste-teht-lum, Tsohkw, Yennis, +Elh-wa, Pishtst, Hun-nint, Klat-la-wash, and O-ke-ho, occupying lands on +the Strait of Fuca and Hood's Canal. + +A reservation was set off at the mouth of the Skokomish River, of 3840 +acres. $60,000 in the usual annuities, and $6000 for the improvement of +the reservation, were provided, and the other provisions were the same +as in the Tulalip and She-nah-nam Creek treaties. This treaty was +witnessed by the same gentlemen who witnessed the preceding. + + + COUNCIL OF NEAH BAY, AND MAKAH TREATY. + +From Port Townsend the schooner sped rapidly down the Strait of Fuca, +running one hundred and twenty miles in two days,--no holiday voyage, in +a small vessel in midwinter, along that exposed and shelterless +coast,--and reached Neah Bay on the evening of the 28th. At this point, +just inside Cape Flattery, the Makah Indians had their principal +village. Messengers were immediately dispatched to call in the Indians +of the other Makah villages, and of tribes farther south on the coast. +The tents, goods, and men were landed on the 29th, and camp established. +The following day the governor, accompanied by Mr. Gibbs, crossed the +Cape Flattery peninsula to the Pacific coast, and examined the country +for the purpose of selecting a suitable reservation. In the evening he +called a meeting of the Makah chiefs on board the schooner, the other +villages having come in during the day, and explained the principal +features of the proposed treaty. The Great Father had sent him here to +watch over the Indians. He had talked with the other tribes on the +Sound, and they had promised to be good friends with their neighbors, +and he had now come to talk with the Makahs. When he had done here, he +was going to the Indians down the coast, and would make them friends to +the Makahs. He had treated with the other Sound Indians for their lands, +setting aside reserves for them, giving them a school, farmer, +physician, etc., etc. When he concluded, Kal-chote, a Makah chief, +spoke: "Before the big chiefs Klehsitt, the White Chief, Yall-a-coon or +Flattery Jack, and Heh-iks died, he was not the head chief himself, he +was only the small chief, but though there were many Indians then, he +was not the least of them. He knew the country all around, and therefore +he had a right to speak. He thought he ought to have the right to fish, +and take whales, and get food where he liked. He was afraid that if he +could not take halibut where he wanted, he would become poor." + +Keh-tchook, of the stone house: "What Kal-chote had said was his wish. +He did not want to leave the salt water." + +Governor Stevens informed them that, so far from wishing to stop their +fisheries, he wished to send them oil-kettles and fishing apparatus. + +Klah-pr-at-loo: "He was willing to sell his land. All he wanted was the +right of fishing." + +Tse-kan-wootl: "He wanted the sea. That was his country. If whales were +killed and floated ashore, he wanted, for his people, the exclusive +right of taking them, and if their slaves ran away, he wanted to get +them back." + +Governor Stevens replied that he wanted them to fish, but the whites +should fish also. Whoever killed the whales was to have them if they +came ashore. Many white men were coming into the country, and he did not +want the Indians to be crowded out. + + Kal-chote: "I want always to live on my old ground, and to die on + it. I only want a small piece for a house, and will live as a friend + to the whites, and they should fish together." + + Ke-bach-sat: "My heart is not bad, but I do not wish to leave all my + land. I am willing you should have half, but I want the other half + myself." + + It-an-da-ha: "My father! my father! I now give you my heart. When + any ships come and the whites injure me, I will apply to my father, + and tell him of my trouble, and look to him for help, and if any + Indians wish to kill me, I shall still call on my father. I do not + wish to leave the salt water. I want to fish in common with the + whites. I don't want to sell all my land. I want a part in common + with the whites to plant potatoes on. I want the place where my + house is." + +Governor Stevens asked them whether, if the right of drying fish +wherever they pleased was left them, they could not agree to live at one +place for a winter residence and potato ground, explaining the idea of +subdivision of lands, and he desired them to think the matter over +during the night. They were asked to consult among themselves upon the +choice of a head chief. As they declined doing this, on the ground that +they were all of equal rank, the governor selected Tse-kan-wootl, the +Osett chief, as the head, a choice in which they all acquiesced with +satisfaction. Temporary papers in lieu of commissions were then issued +to a number of the sub-chiefs. + +The Indians assembled in council on the morning of January 31. The +number of the tribe was found to be six hundred. Governor Stevens +explained the provisions of the treaty:-- + + "The Great Father sent me to see you, and give you his mind. The + whites are crowding in upon you. The Great Father wishes to give you + your homes, to buy your land, and give a fair price for it, leaving + you land enough to live on and raise potatoes. He knows what whalers + you are, how far you go to sea to take whales. He will send you + barrels in which to put your oil, kettles to try it out, lines and + implements to fish with. The Great Father wants your children to go + to school, to learn trades." + +The treaty was then read and interpreted and explained, clause by +clause. + +Governor Stevens then asked them if they were satisfied. If they were, +to say so. If not, to answer freely and state their objections. + +Tse-kan-wootl brought up a white flag and presented it, saying: "Look at +this flag. See if there are any spots on it. There are none, and there +are none on our hearts." + +Kal-chote then presented another flag and said, "What you have said is +good, and what you have written is good." + +The Indians gave three cheers or shouts as each concluded. The governor +then signed the treaty, and was followed by the Indian chiefs and +principal men, forty-one in number, of the Neah, Waatch, Tsoo-yess, and +Osett villages, or bands of the Makahs. Among the names are +Klah-pe-an-hie or Andrew Jackson, Tchoo-quut-lah or Yes Sir, and Swell +or Jeff Davis. + +The witnesses were M.T. Simmons, Indian agent; George Gibbs, secretary; +B.F. Shaw, interpreter; C.M. Hitchcock, M.D.; E.S. Fowler, Orrington +Cushman, and Robert Davis. + +The provisions of this treaty are the same as in the others. The +annuities in goods, etc., amounted to $30,000, and $3000 were provided +to improve the reservation, which embraced Neah Bay and Cape Flattery +and their principal village. It was intended only for a place of +residence, with enough cultivable land for potatoes and vegetables, and, +what was more important, to prevent their being crowded off by fishing +establishments. The locality is unfit for agriculture, being rocky and +sterile, with an annual rainfall of 122 inches. And the reserve was all +they needed, for the Makahs are bold and skillful fishermen and sailors, +accustomed to venture thirty to fifty miles out to sea in their large +canoes, and take the whale and halibut, while inshore they hunt the seal +and sea-otter, and catch the salmon. They are a more sturdy, brave, and +enterprising race than the natives of the Sound, more resembling the +northern Indians. In their remote, rocky stronghold, protected by the +strong arm of the government extended over them by this treaty, but +depending upon the sea and their own efforts for a livelihood, they have +prospered greatly, putting up vast quantities of fish, furs, and oil for +market; and there are few white communities that have so much wealth per +capita, or wealth so evenly distributed, as these industrious and manly +Indians. + +Immediately after the signing the presents were distributed, the camp +was broken up, and in the evening the party reëmbarked. The little +vessel at once hoisted sail for Port Townsend, where, after a three +days' trip, being delayed by head winds, she arrived February 3. The +next day the governor, with some of the party, took the Major Tompkins +for Victoria, in order to confer with Governor Douglass upon the means +of preventing the piratical incursions of the northern Indians upon the +Sound. On the 5th he returned to Port Townsend, and reached Olympia on +the night of the 6th. + +This brief campaign was Napoleonic, in rapidity and success. In six +weeks Governor Stevens met and treated with five thousand Indians, of +numerous independent and jealous tribes and bands, and in four separate +councils carefully and indefatigably made clear to them the new policy, +convinced them of its benefits to them, and concluded with them four +separate treaties, by which the Indian title to the whole Puget Sound +basin was extinguished forever, and the great source and danger of +collision between the races was removed. For the eight thousand five +hundred Indians hitherto ignored by Congress and treated by the settlers +as mere vagrants, to be shoved aside at the whim or self-interest of any +white man, he established nine reservations, containing over 60,000 +acres, for their permanent homes and exclusive possessions; provided +annuities of clothing, goods, and useful articles for twenty years, +aggregating $300,000; abolished slavery and war among them; excluded +liquor from the reservations; extended over them the protection of the +government, with agents, schools, teachers, farmers, and mechanics to +instruct them; and, in a word, set their feet fairly on "the white man's +road." To accomplish this astonishing work in such brief time, he +traveled eight hundred miles upon the Sound and Strait in the most +inclement season of the year, half the distance, and that the most +dangerous, in a small sailing-craft. He disregarded the storms and rains +of that inclement season, and spared neither himself nor his assistants. +It is not easy to say who had the hardest task, the agents and +messengers who traveled all over the Sound in canoes in the tempestuous +rainy season to call the scattered bands together, or the unfortunate +secretary, who had to catch and set down on paper the jaw-breaking +native names. + +The success and rapidity with which he carried through these treaties +were due to the careful and thorough manner in which he planned them, +and prepared the minds of the Indians by his tour among and talks to +them a year previous, and by the messages and agents he had sent among +them. Besides, the Indians realized their own feebleness and uncertain +future, divided into so many bands, exposed to the depredations of the +northern Indians, and dreading the advent and encroachments of the +whites. Their minds consequently were well attuned for treating; and +when they understood the wise and beneficent policy and liberal terms +offered by the governor, they gladly accepted them, and put their trust +in him as their friend and protector, a trust never withdrawn and never +forsaken. + +The Indian war which occurred soon after, and the delay in the +ratification of the treaties, seriously militated against carrying out +the beneficent policy so well inaugurated, and later the occasional +appointment of inefficient and dishonest agents has proved even more +detrimental; but notwithstanding all these drawbacks the Indians have +made substantial advances in civilization, and it is interesting to +compare their present condition, as given in the last reports of the +Commissioner of Indian Affairs, and from local sources. + +Their numbers have diminished only about one half. No one seeing their +debased condition in 1850 to 1860 (except the Makahs) would have deemed +it possible for them to hold their own so well. + + Makahs 750 + Tulalip Agency, lower Sound Indians 1700 + Puyallup Agency, upper Sound Indians 1850 + ---- + 4300 + +All now wear civilized dress, and live in houses. Many can read and +write, and many of their children attend the reservation schools. + + "Among the Makahs, many of the younger Indians are turning their + attention to farming and raising stock, and many of them have fine + gardens. They still catch a great many fish, sending them to market + in Seattle by steamer, and have caught and shipped as high as 10,000 + pounds in one day. There are few places with so large a population + where so little crime is committed." + +All the reservations on the Sound have now been allotted, and the +Indians are living on their respective allotments. A considerable number +have taken up farms under the homestead laws, or purchased lands from +the whites, and are farming successfully. Such Indians are frequently +seen driving into the towns with good wagons and teams, as well dressed +as the average white rancher, and accompanied ofttimes by their wives +and children. + + "Practically all these Indians dress as civilized men and women, and + live in houses, some of which are good, comfortable, and roomy, + fully equal to the average farm dwellings in prosperous communities + of whites, and from these they grade down to the most squalid shacks + imaginable. Under the influence of the teachers, and the example of + the more advanced Indians and the better class of white neighbors, + there is slow but sure improvement in this particular." + +During the fall hundreds of them congregate on the hop-fields, where +they supply the most reliable hop-pickers, whole families--men, women, +and children--diligently working together. After this harvest crowds of +them flock into the towns, and lay in stores of clothing and provisions +for the winter before returning home.[11] + + [11] Commissioner of Indian Affairs' Report for 1899, pp. + 301-303, 612. + + + The Riverside Press + + _Electrotyped and printed by H.O. Houghton & Co._ + + _Cambridge, Mass, U.S.A._ + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Some compound words (e.g., 'wagon-master') appeared both with and +without a hyphen. They are given as printed. Where a word is hyphenated +on a line break, the hyphen is retained if the preponderance of other +appearances indicate it was intended. + +Illlustrations cannot be reproduced here, but the approximate position +of each is indicated as: [Illustration: <caption>]. + +Footnotes are repositioned at the end of each chapter. They have been +re-numbered consecutively. + +The following minor issues are noted and corrected. + + The name 'Boulineau' was likely misprinted based on that of another + member of Steven's party, Pierre Boutineau. The instance on p. 330 + refers to Paul Boulieau. + + p. 2 there is scar[c]ely a State in the Union Added 'c'. + + p. 28 and Schuyler Hamilton[.] Added full stop + + p. 97 ponto[o]n Added. + + p. 99 Do not fa[l/i]l to Corrected. + + p. 137 about twelve [P.] M. Supplied missing 'P'. + + p. 141 but about nine o'clock[,/.] Corrected. + + p. 182 at good esc[a/o]pette range Corrected. + + p. 210 formid[id]able Removed. + + p. 216 the Cerro [C/G]ordo Corrected. + + p. 330 Bouli[n]eau Removed spurious 'n'. + + p. 373 dress of a chief?["/'] Corrected. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43589 *** |