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diff --git a/43589-8.txt b/43589-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bf18efd..0000000 --- a/43589-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17827 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Life of Isaac Ingalls Stevens, Volume I -(of 2), by Hazard Stevens - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: The Life of Isaac Ingalls Stevens, Volume I (of 2) - - -Author: Hazard Stevens - - - -Release Date: August 30, 2013 [eBook #43589] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS, -VOLUME I (OF 2)*** - - -E-text prepared by KD Weeks, Jana Srna, Bryan Ness, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by the Google Books Library Project -(http://books.google.com) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 43589-h.htm or 43589-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43589/43589-h/43589-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43589/43589-h.zip) - - - Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work. - Volume II: see http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/43590 - - - Images of the original pages are available through - the Google Books Library Project. See - http://books.google.com/books?id=oRdNv3xaMmMC - - -Transcriber's note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - A carat character is used to denote superscription. A - single character following the carat is superscripted - (example: y^e). Multiple superscripted characters are - enclosed by curly brackets (example: Coun^{clr}). - - The 'oe' ligature appears only in the words 'Coeur - d'Alene', and is rendered as 'C[oe]ur.' - - Words printed using "small capitals" are shifted to all - upper-case. - - Please consult the note at the end of this text for - details of corrections made. - - - - - -[Illustration: Isaac Stevens] - - -THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS - -By His Son - -HAZARD STEVENS - -With Maps and Illustrations - -In Two Volumes - -VOL. I - - - - - - - -[Illustration] - -Boston and New York -Houghton, Mifflin and Company -The Riverside Press, Cambridge -1900 - -Copyright, 1900, by Hazard Stevens -All Rights Reserved - - - - - THIS RECORD - OF - A NOBLE AND PATRIOTIC LIFE - IS DEDICATED - TO - THE YOUNG MEN OF AMERICA - - - - -PREFACE - - -For many years I have felt impelled to write this Life, not only in -justice to General Stevens's memory, but also as an act of duty to the -young men of the country, that the example of his noble and patriotic -career might not be lost to posterity. An only son, closely associated -from boyhood with him, his chief of staff in the Civil War, and always -the recipient of his counsel and confidence, the opportunities thus -given me to know his sentiments and characteristics, and to witness so -many of his actions, plainly augment the duty of making his record more -widely known. In these pages, setting aside, as far as possible, the -bias of filial respect and affection, I seek to simply narrate the -actual facts of his life. - -Since beginning this work in 1877, I have been greatly assisted by data -furnished by many of General Stevens's contemporaries, former brother -officers, and associates in the public service, many of whom have now -passed on. I render my grateful thanks to them for such aid, and for -their words of appreciation of General Stevens and encouragement to his -biographer, and especially to Generals Zealous B. Tower, Henry J. Hunt, -Benjamin Alvord, Edward D. Townsend, Rufus Ingalls, A.A. Humphreys, E.O. -C. Ord, Thomas W. Sherman, Joseph E. Johnston, G.T. Beauregard, William -H. French, Truman Seymour, Orlando M. Poe, Silas Casey, John G. Barnard, -M.C. Meiggs, Joseph Hooker, George W. Cullum, David Morrison, George E. -Randolph; Colonels Samuel N. Benjamin, Granville O. Haller, Henry C. -Hodges, John Hamilton, H.G. Heffron, Elijah Walker, Moses B. Lakeman; -Major Theodore J. Eckerson, Major George T. Clark; Captains William T. -Lusk, Robert Armour, C.H. Armstrong; Professors W.H. C. Bartlett, A.E. -Church, H.S. Kendrick, H.E. Hilgard, Spencer F. Baird; General Joseph -Lane, Senator James W. Nesmith; General Joel Palmer, Nathan W. Hazen, -Esq., Alexander S. Abernethy, C.P. Higgins; Judge James G. Swan, Arthur -A. Denny; Hon. Elwood Evans, General James Tilton. - -My thanks are also due, for facilities for examining and copying records -in their departments, to the Hon. J.Q. Smith, former Commissioner of -Indian Affairs, and Hon. A.C. Towner, Acting Commissioner; to General H. -C. Corbin, Adjutant-General; General John M. Wilson, Chief of Engineers; -Hon. John Hay, Secretary of State; Professor Henry L. Pritchett, -Superintendent of the Coast Survey; Lieutenant Paul Brodie, formerly -adjutant 79th Highlanders, for copying hundreds of pages of documents in -the Indian Office; Mr. R.F. Thompson, of the same office, for assistance -rendered; Professor F.G. Young, of Eugene, Oregon, for a copy of Colonel -Lawrence Kip's account of the Walla Walla Council, republished by him. - - - - -SOURCES OF INFORMATION - - -Savage's New England Genealogies. - -Abiel Abbott's History of Andover. - -Miss Sarah Loring Bailey's Historical Sketches of Andover. - -Church and town records of Andover. - -Massachusetts Colonial Records. - -Family records and correspondence. - -History of the Mexican War, by General C.M. Wilcox. - -Campaigns of the Rio Grande and of Mexico, by Major Isaac I. Stevens. - -General Stevens's diary and letters (unpublished). - -His reports in the Engineer Bureau of the Army (unpublished). - -Reports of the Coast Survey, Professor A.D. Bache, for 1850 to 1853. - -Boston Post newspaper, files for 1852. - -Pacific Railroad Routes Explorations, vols. i. and xii., two parts. - -General Stevens's reports to Commissioner of Indian Affairs, with -journals of Indian councils and proceedings in 1854-55 (unpublished). - -Reports of December 22, 1855, and January 29, 1856, in House Document -48, 1st session, 34th Congress. - -Reports of August 28, December 5, 1856, council at Fox Island; October -22, 1856, second council at Walla Walla; April 30, 1857, with map and -census of Indian tribes (unpublished). - -Reports to Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War, August 15, December 21, -1854; February 19, March 9 and 21, May 23 (two letters), June 8, July 7 -and 24, August 14, October 22, November 21 (three letters), 1856. See -documents of 34th and 35th Congresses. - -Reports and correspondence of General Wool, Colonel George Wright, and -Lieutenant-Colonel Silas Casey, in said documents. - -Governor Stevens's messages to legislature of Washington Territory, -February 28, December 5, 1854; January 20, December, 1856, the latter -accompanied by reports to the Secretary of War and correspondence with -military officers during the Indian war. See, also, above documents and -messages for proceedings relative to martial law. - -Governor Stevens's speeches in 35th and 36th Congresses, in -Congressional Globe. - -General Joseph Lane's speech in 35th Congress, May 13, 1858, on the -Indian war. - -Three Years' Residence in Washington Territory, by James G. Swan. - -The Walla Walla Council, by Colonel Lawrence Kip. - -Account of Colonel Wright's campaign against the Spokanes, by Colonel -Lawrence Kip. - -Report of J. Ross Browne, Special Agent, etc., on the Indian war, House -Document 58, 1st session, 35th Congress. - -History of the Pacific States, by H.H. Bancroft, vols. xxiv.-xxvi. - -Archives State Department. - -Records War Department. - -Circular Letter to Emigrants, The Northwest, Letter to the Vancouver -Railroad Convention, by Governor Stevens, published in pamphlet. - -The War between the States, by A.H. Stephens. - -War Records, vol. v., for Army of the Potomac in 1861; vol. vi., for -Port Royal Expedition; vol. xiv., for James Island campaign; vol. xii., -in three parts, for Pope's campaign. - -Military Historical Society of Massachusetts, vol. ii, entitled The -Virginia Campaign of 1862 under General Pope. - -History of the 79th Highlanders, by William Todd. - -History of the 21st Massachusetts, by General Charles F. Walcott. - -Biographical Register of West Point Graduates, by General George W. -Cullum. - -Defence of Charleston Harbor, by Major John Johnson. - -Southern Historical Society Papers, vol. xvi. - -Official dispatches of Admiral Dupont. - -Life of Charles Henry Davis, Rear Admiral. - -Letters and statements from gentlemen named in the Preface. - - * * * * * - -The author, having sought his information from original sources as far -as possible, deems it unnecessary to mention the great number of -histories, regimental histories, and biographies that he has perused, as -they throw little light on the subject, and much of that misleading. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER I - - ANCESTRY.--BIRTHPLACE - - Isaac Ingalls Stevens, seventh in descent from John Stevens, - 1, one of founders of Andover, Mass., 1640--Deacon Joseph, - 2--Captain James, 3, captor of Louisburg; deputy to General - Court--Lieutenant James, 4, raised company for French and - Indian war; died in service--Jonathan, 5, Revolutionary - soldier, Bunker Hill; other service; characteristics--His - brother James's diary of siege of Boston--Isaac, 6, - crippled by falling tree; marries Hannah Cummings,--her - ancestry; hires Bridges farm; untiring industry and thrift; - death of wife; second marriage; characteristics; children 1 - - - CHAPTER II - - BIRTH.--BOYHOOD - - Born, Marble Ridge farmhouse, North Andover, Mass., March 25, - 1818--Delicate child--Heroic treatment--Incidents showing - character--Devotion to mother--Her death irreparable - loss--Early schooling--Over-study--Evil effects--Insists on - leaving school--Works in factory a year--Strict treatment-- - No indulgence--Injudicious urging--Fever--Rupture from - over-exertion--Seeks Dr. Warren--Old Put's school, Franklin - Academy--Rigorous daily life of farmer's boy--Phillips - Academy--Appearance on entering--Earns board and lodgings - with Nathan W. Hazen, Esq.--Takes first rank in studies--Power - of concentration--Habits of study--Proficiency in mathematics-- - Protests against bigotry--Overcomes extreme diffidence-- - Appointed to West Point 13 - - - CHAPTER III - - WEST POINT - - Patriotic emotions on entering West Point--Determines to be - head of his class--Better prepared rivals, Biddle, Halleck, - and Butler--Distinguished classmates--Extra French lessons-- - Letters describe life and studies--Father and uncle William - disappointed at standing at first examination--Abominates - smoking and chewing--Early rising--Halleck and Biddle compare - notes--"Little Stevens is driving ahead like the Devil"--Gains - first place--Spends 4th of July in New York--Southern contempt - for Yankee farmers--Determined to resent it--Dialectic - Society--Second year encampment--Military ball--Contrasts his - situation with that on entering--Characteristics drawn by - Professors Bartlett and Church--Extra drawing lessons, great - gains--Admires General Miller's "I'll try, sir"--Generous - rivalry--Eleven good friends--Visit home 24 - - CHAPTER IV - - WEST POINT.--LAST TWO YEARS - - Appointed assistant professor of mathematics--Leading part in - Dialectic Society--Efforts at speaking--Reflections on - studies and authors--Long walks--Forbidden sweets-- - Horsemanship--Skating over thin ice--Saves companion from - freezing--Letters to father and sisters--Susan goes to - Missouri--Again head, third year--Patriotic indignation at - British aggression--Advises sending Oliver to college--Letters - to Hannah and Oliver--Avows abolition principles--Founds - "Talisman"--His own anonymous critic--His intimate friends-- - Graduates first in every branch--Parents attend graduation - exercises 48 - - CHAPTER V - - NEWPORT - - Ordered to Newport, R.I.--Phrenological chart--Lieutenants - Mason, Beauregard, Hunt--Ascendency over employees--Newport - society--Mr. Stevens welcomed--Personal appearance--Meets his - future wife--Benjamin Hazard--Horseback rides--Family - mansion--Charming Polly Wanton--Colonel Daniel Lyman--German - class--Marriage of Susan to David H. Bishop--Death of - grandmother--Urges additional fortifications--Proposes to - study law--Friendly letter from Halleck--Takes part of - Tilden; of H.L. Smith--Death of Hannah--Delivers address - before Newport Lyceum--Lecture on Oliver Cromwell--Visits - Washington--Fairhaven battery--Death of Susan--Death of - Benjamin Hazard--Marriage, September 8, 1841 60 - - - CHAPTER VI - - CHARGE OF WORKS: NEW BEDFORD, PORTSMOUTH, PORTLAND, BUCKSPORT - - Wedding journey to West Point--Returns to Newport--Charge of - works at New Bedford--Moves to Fairhaven--Halleck asks aid - for engineer corps--Journal--Thanksgiving in Andover--Hazard - born, June 9--Fugitive slave harbored in Andover--Elizabeth - marries L.M. Campbell in Tennessee--Moves his family to - Portsmouth, N.H.--Charge of works there and Portland, - Me.--Pleasant society--Examines old forts at Castine--Fort - Knox, on Penobscot, buys land for--Youthful appearance-- - Backwoods uncle, warm welcome--Overwork--Severe illness-- - Julia Virginia born, June 27, 1844--Visits Andover--Elizabeth - and Mr. Campbell--Moves to Bucksport tavern--Goes to - housekeeping--New friends--Assistants, Richard Kidder Randolph, - Isaac Osgood, A.W. Tinkham--Penobscot River--Barge--Pushes on - works--Fine ox-teams--Judge of men--Severe sickness in - winter--Visits Washington--Obtains large appropriations-- - Confidential inquiry if he desires promotion--Characteristic - reply--Delighted in dispensing hospitality--Daughter Julia - Virginia died, December 7, 1845--Beautiful tribute by Mr. - Brooks--Organizes course of lectures--Salmon weir--Advocates - engineer company--Enlists first soldier--Views on raising - standard of rank and file--Ordered to Mexican war--Speeds to - Boston by sleigh 78 - - - CHAPTER VII - - VOYAGE TO MEXICO - - Placed in charge of pontoon and engineer train--Delays in - embarking--Visits from relatives--Death of Elizabeth--Letters - to wife--Sails on barque Prompt, January 19, 1847--Diary of - voyage--Seasickness--Warm weather--Passes Bahamas, Great - Abaco, Hole in the Wall, Berry Island, Black Chief--Steward - commits suicide--The weather in the Gulf--Arrives at the - Brazos--Meets officers--Great confusion--Sails to Tampico, - beautiful, picturesque region--Landing at Vera Cruz, March 9 - and 10 96 - - - CHAPTER VIII - - VERA CRUZ.--CERRO GORDO - - Vera Cruz--Defenses--American army invests city--Lieutenant - Stevens's zeal in reconnoitring--Hands torn and poisoned-- - Horse bolts to enemy's lines--Throws himself from saddle-- - Looks out route for covered way--Put in charge with large - working parties--Volunteers--Independent ways--Diary of - siege--Capture of city--Damage by artillery fire--"Moonlight - magnificence and sunlight squalidity"--Secures fine horse-- - Appointed adjutant of engineer corps--Diary of march to - Cerro Gordo--National Bridge--Rancheros--Reconnoissances - of Cerro Gordo--Disabled by rupture--Compelled to remain in - camp--Description of battle--Letter to wife 110 - - - CHAPTER IX - - JALAPA.--PUEBLA - - Prisoners released on parole--March for Jalapa--Encerro, Santa - Anna's country seat--Reaches Jalapa, Eden of Mexico--Prepares - memoir on conducting war against guerrillas--Letters to - wife--Feeling address at burial of Sapper Carigan--March from - Jalapa to Puebla--Beautiful country--Soldado--Pass of La - Hora--Las Vegas--Perote, its plain and castle--Leaves Perote - with Colonel Clarke's brigade--San Antonio--Tepe Ahualeo with - General Worth and Garland's brigade--Hacienda of Virayes-- - Byzantium--Ojo de Agua--Hacienda Santa Annaced--Nopalucan--El - Pinal--Acajete--Amasoque--Column of lancers threaten attack-- - Sheer off at fire of Duncan's battery in two bodies-- - Lieutenants Stevens and McClellan pursue one for five - miles--Puebla occupied--Health improved--Reports for duty-- - Reconnoitres road to Tlascala--Examines position in city-- - Generals Scott and Twiggs arrive--Santa Anna renounces - power--His career and character--Attends church--Bull fight-- - Army recruiting strength--Drilling--Awaiting reinforcements-- - Engineers making maps--Collecting information--Wealthy - Mexican offers to act as spy--Dominguez, robber chief, with - some of his band, employed as spies and couriers--Submits - memoir on system of espionage and employing robbers--Rumors-- - Guerrillas invest El Pinal--Colonel Harney marches to disperse - them--Arrival of volunteers--Review--Sorry appearance--Good - material--Heavy defenses and eighteen thousand troops at City - of Mexico--Character of Mexican governing class--Letters to - wife--Description of Puebla--Climate--People--Confidence of - the troops--Character of General Scott--Arrival of General - Pierce 129 - - - CHAPTER X - - ADVANCE TO MEXICO, EL PEŅON, CONTRERAS, CHURUBUSCO - - Advance to valley of Mexico--Description of defenses--General - Scott and staff with Twiggs's division reach Ayotla--Daring - reconnoissances of El Peņon by Lieutenant Stevens--March - around Lakes Chalco and Xochimilco--Occupy San Augustin-- - Reconnoissances of enemy's positions--San Antonio road - strongly fortified--Pedregal--Intrenched camp at Contreras-- - Battle of Contreras--Lieutenant Stevens urges decisive movement - adopted by Twiggs--"Attack the enemy's left; you cut him off - from reinforcements and hurl him into the gorges of the - mountains"--Stormy night--Discouragement--Scene at Scott's - headquarters--Second day's battle--Reconnoitring from church - steeple at Coyoacan--Enemy in full retreat on San Antonio - road--Instant advance by Twiggs, led by Lieutenant Stevens, - who comes up against fortified convent and brings on battle - of Churubusco--Description of battle--Terrible scenes of - battlefield banished sleep--Letter to wife--Tacubaya occupied-- - Armistice 163 - - - CHAPTER XI - - MOLINO DEL REY.--CHAPULTEPEC.--CAPTURE OF CITY OF MEXICO.--RETURN TO - UNITED STATES - - General Scott and staff enter Tacubaya--Take quarters in - Bishop's Palace--Commissioners to negotiate peace--Mexican - treachery--Armistice terminated--Battle of Molino del - Rey--Useless attacks--Severe losses--Battle of - Chapultepec--Castle stormed--Quitman advances on Tacubaya - causeway--Worth on San Cosme causeway--Lieutenant Stevens, - with Worth, wounded--Enemy retreat in night--American troops - occupy city--Lieutenant Stevens's remarks on the - movements--His character sketches of Lee, Beauregard, Tower, - Smith, McClellan, Foster, Mason--Removed to city--quartered - in the Palace--Severe wound--Ups and downs--Mounts - crutches--Journeys in ambulance with Lieutenant Foster to - Puebla--Arrives at New Orleans 202 - - - CHAPTER XII - - HEROES HOME FROM THE WAR - - Proceeds to Washington--Flattering reception--Gives full - accounts to Colonel Totten--Joyful reunion with family in - Newport--Shoots mad dog--Ordered to Savannah--Letter to - brother--Character of Cromwell--Makes garden--Justice of - Mexican war--Savannah orders countermanded--Resumes works at - Bucksport--Purchases house, garden, poultry--Characteristic - reply to inquiry as to willingness to be sent to Pacific - coast--Brevetted captain and major--Efforts to secure justice - for brother officers--Opinion of General Taylor--Brevet - pay--McClellan asks assistance for engineer company-- - Lieutenant Stevens's views--Advocates reorganization - of the army 226 - - - CHAPTER XIII - - COAST SURVEY - - Professor A.D. Bache tenders charge of Coast Survey office-- - Accepts conditionally--Retains charge of works--Assumes new - duties--Estimate of General Taylor--Magnitude of Coast - Survey Office--Organizes the force--Reforms the office-- - Meets "men of Mexico"--General Shields--Approves - compromise measures--Puritan father condemns Webster-- - Visits Bucksport--Daughter Gertrude Maude born--Wound - breaks out afresh--Contemplates leaving Coast Survey--Moves - family to Newport--Pays $400 on house--Generous in money - matters--Spends summer in Washington--Letters to his wife-- - Ideals of woman, marriage, duty, ambition--Admiration for - Henry Clay, the master spirit--Compromise measures passed--Fine - health--Carries appropriation--Truth and directness superior - to low cunning--Office improving, duties more pleasant - daily--Publishes Campaigns of Rio Grande and of Mexico--General - Scott takes offense 241 - - - CHAPTER XIV - - LIFE IN WASHINGTON - - Moves family to Washington--Pleasant society--Takes hold Fourteen - Years' Bill--Reorganization of army--Urges brother officers to - do "their duty to their profession"--Army man, not a corps - man--Moves to Mrs. Janney's, on 8th Street--Takes family to - Newport for summer, 1851--Another phrenological chart--Rents - house on 3d Street and goes to housekeeping--George Watson - Stevens--Letters to wife--Responds to toast of Army and Navy - at banquet to Kossuth--Advocates coast defenses, and writes - articles--Appointed member of Lighthouse Board--Sells Bucksport - house--Advocates election of General Franklin Pierce as - President--Articles in "Boston Post"--Speeches in Andover, - Newport, and Portsmouth--Taken to task by Secretary of War - Conrad--Pungent reply--Leader among young officers--Numerous - calls--Friendship with Professor Bache--Continued improvement - of Coast Survey Office 257 - - - CHAPTER XV - - GOVERNOR, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.--EXPLORATION, NORTHERN ROUTE - - Washington Territory organized--Exploration of routes to Pacific - determined on--Appointed governor--Letter of resignation from - army--Colonel Totten's reply--Silver service presented by - friends on the Coast Survey--Obtains charge of exploration of - Northern route--Takes high ground--Impresses his views on the - administration--Applies for Captain McClellan--Letter to - him--Sends Lieutenant Donelson to Montreal to procure maps - and data from Hudson Bay Company--Prepares his own - instructions--Magnitude of task--Organizes the expedition-- - Gives McClellan charge of construction of the military road, - Steilacoom to Walla Walla--Declares independence of Hudson Bay - Company--Busy scenes in 3d Street house--Sends officers to San - Francisco, St. Louis, and St. Paul to hasten preparation-- - Selects territorial library--Exploration fully reported in - vols. i. and xii., Pacific Railroad Reports 280 - - - CHAPTER XVI - - THE PARTY.--THE START - - Leaves Washington--Expedites matters in St. Louis--Dispatches - party up Missouri--Up Mississippi to St. Paul--Rouses party - in camp before breakfast--Breaking mules--Incessant - rains--Roster of the party--General plan--March to Sauk - River--Winnebago Indians--Canadian voyageurs--Pierre - Boutineau--Camp regulations--Assimilated rank--All to stand - guard--Pembina train--Pushing on detached parties--March to - Pike lake--Swollen streams, bogs--Crossing Sauk and Crow - rivers--Lightning Lake--Fish and game--Relieves Lieutenant Du - Barry--Discharges inefficient men--White Bear Lake--Parties - reassemble at Pike Lake 302 - - - CHAPTER XVII - - PIKE LAKE TO FORT UNION - - General course W. 10° N.--Lieutenant Grover surveys separate - route--Country within forty miles examined by side - trips--Route passes near Breckinridge, Jamestown, Minot, and - Great Northern Railroad nearly to Rocky Mountains--Crosses - Chippewa River--Camp regulations--Bois de Sioux--Description - of country--Red River hunters--Sheyenne River--Lander's - adventure--False alarm of Indians--Myriads of buffalo--The - hunt--Lake Jessie--Buffalo threaten camp; stop train--Horse - and mules go off with buffalo--Governor Stevens disabled-- - Lander returns--Inveterate horse-killer--James River--Anxiety - at non-return of Tinkham--Guns fired--Parties sent back to - find him--Sioux reported approaching--Train arranged for - defense--Red River hunters--Tinkham returns safe--Governor - Wilkie and Red River hunters--Customs--Hunts--Government--Air - tainted by slaughtered buffalo--Maison du Chien--Coteau de - Missouri--Mouse River--More Red River hunters--Exchange - visits--Express dispatched to Fort Union--Assiniboine - Indians--Council--Distribution of presents--Arrives at Fort - Union 320 - - - CHAPTER XVIII - - FORT UNION TO FORT BENTON - - Description of Fort Union--Alexander Culbertson--The - Blackfeet--Making peace--Surveys by side parties--Bugbear - stories--Moving westward--Blackfoot war party--Big Muddy-- - Missouri bottom--Every one ordered to walk part way daily-- - Milk River--Field order--Abundant game--Gros Ventres--Feast - and council--Feud with Blackfeet--Peace made between them-- - Trading horses--Cypress Mountain--Stories of Indian - fights--Bear's Paw Mountains--Party sent to view them--Box - Elder Creek--The Three Buttes, favorite resort of Blackfeet-- - Crosses Marias and Teton rivers--Scene of bloody Indian - conflict--Fort Benton--Fort Campbell 347 - - - CHAPTER XIX - - WIDESPREAD EXPLORING PARTIES - - Gathering information--Lieutenant Grover to Bitter Root - valley--Lieutenant Mullan to Muscle Shell River--Lieutenant - Donelson to examine Cadotte's Pass--Mr. Lander to Marias - Pass--George W. Stevens describes outfitting war parties--Funds - fall short--Governor Stevens takes responsibility of incurring - deficiency--Starts to visit main Blackfoot camp--Chiefs join - the party--Culbertson's defense of Fort McKenzie--Death of - Rotten Belly--Reaches Marias River--Express brings report from - Lieutenant Saxton that mountains are impassable for wagons-- - Returns to Fort Benton--Lander ordered back--Want of harmony in - his party--Stanley proceeds to Piegan camp--Lieutenants Saxton - and Grover meet on summit of Rocky Mountains--Tinkham returns - from Three Buttes and Marias River--Outfitting with pack - animals--Lieutenant Saxton, with Culbertson and twenty-eight - men, descends Missouri in keelboat--Doty stationed at Fort - Benton--Lander's insubordination curbed--Stanley returns with - thirty chiefs--Talk with Blackfeet--Their dress--Peace - advocated--Chief Low Horn--His good faith 364 - - - CHAPTER XX - - EXPLORING THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS - - Lieutenants Saxton and Grover start down the Missouri--March up - the Teton via Sun and Dearborn rivers to Cadotte's Pass-- - Description of country; game--Governor Stevens proclaims - inauguration of civil government on summit of Rocky Mountains-- - Descending western slope--Big Blackfoot and Hell Gate rivers-- - Overtakes main party--Fine condition of animals--Bitter Root - valley and river--Fort Owen--Lieutenant Arnold here with train - and provisions--Nine passes examined--Lander's erratic course-- - Council with Flatheads--Chief Victor--Lieutenant Mullan - stationed at winter post in Bitter Root valley--Lieutenant - Donelson with main party sent via Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille - Lake--Dr. Suckley descends rivers in canoe--Tinkham to explore - Marias Pass--Proceed to Fort Benton--Cross mountains to Walla - Walla--Governor Stevens moves down the Bitter Root--Meets the - Nez Perces--Crosses the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mountains--C[oe]ur - d'Alene Mission--Indians--Lake--Falls--Spokane Indians--Spokane - Garry, head chief--Forced ride to Colville--Meeting with - McClellan--His explorations--Dilatoriness--Reports against - country and passes 375 - - - CHAPTER XXI - - UPPER COLUMBIA TO PUGET SOUND - - McDonald's Indian tales--Chemakan Mission--Settlements in Colville - valley--Visits Spokane House--Garry's Lodge--Arrival of main - party at Camp Washington--March to Walla Walla--Pelouse River-- - Crosses Snake River--Rides to old Fort Walla Walla--Visits Walla - Walla valley--Pu-pu-mox-mox--Lander ordered to survey Nahchess - Pass--Descends Columbia to Dallas, to Vancouver--Colonel - Bonneville--Ascends Cowlitz River in canoe--Four days in - drenching rains--Lander balks--Tinkham ordered to cross - Snoqualmie Pass--Officers reach Olympia--Captain McClellan - ordered to run line to Snoqualmie Pass--His failure--Tinkham - succeeds--McClellan aggrieved--Governor Stevens's opinion of - pioneers--McClellan's 396 - - - CHAPTER XXII - - ORGANIZING CIVIL GOVERNMENT.--THE INDIAN SERVICE - - Wild country--Scanty population--Character of settlers--Serious - problems--Governor Stevens arrives at Olympia--Issues - proclamation--Organizes Indian service--Appoints agents--Visits - all parts of Sound--Meets Governor Douglass at Victoria, - B.C.--Reports on Hudson Bay Company's claims--First message-- - Halleck exposes Southern political schemes--Purchases - homestead--Preparing exploration reports--Secretary Davis - stops further surveys--Drafts protested 411 - - - CHAPTER XXIII - - RETURN TO WASHINGTON.--REPORT OF EXPLORATION - - Warm welcome in San Francisco--Lectures on Northern route-- - Advocates three routes--Via Isthmus to New York--Joyful family - reunion in Newport--Proceeds to Washington--Complete report - of exploration--Deficiency provided for--General Hunt relates - incident--Secretary Davis disparages Northern route--General - Stevens's rejoinder--His final report--Severe labors--Sickness-- - Doing the work of the delegate--Appointed commissioner to - treat with Blackfeet and other tribes--Unimpaired influence 425 - - - CHAPTER XXIV - - CROSSING THE ISTHMUS - - Steamer from New York--Riotous scenes--Stops at Havana-- - Aspinwall--Forlorn place--Cars to the summit--Carusi's - pavilion--Scene at night--Proceeds on mule-back--Tropic - rainstorms--Crossing the Chagres River--Lost children-- - Panama--Embarks on Golden Age--Touches at Acapulco--Panama - fever--Reaches San Francisco--Welcomed by friends--Delayed - by sickness--Rebuke to General Wool--Steamer up the coast-- - Into Columbia--Lands at Vancouver--Canoe trip up Cowlitz - River--Muddy roads to Olympia--Disappointing appearance-- - Second message 433 - - - CHAPTER XXV - - INDIAN POLICY.--TREATIES ON PUGET SOUND - - Beneficent Indian policy--Intention to write account of his Indian - service frustrated by early death--Indians of Puget Sound, - helpless, ready to treat--Organizes treaty force--Decides on - policy and terms--Sends agents to assemble Indians--Great pains - to make them fully understand and to consult with them--Council - and treaty of She-nah-nam or Medicine Creek; of Point Elliott - or Mukilteo; of Point-no-Point; of Neah Bay--Speeches--Visits - Victoria, and calls on Governor Douglass to restrain Northern - Indians--Napoleonic campaign--What was accomplished--Present - condition of the Indians 448 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - PAGE - - General Isaac I. Stevens, at the age of 43, - from a photograph _Frontispiece_. - - Grave of John Stevens _to face page_ 2 - - Birthplace of General Stevens, Andover, Mass 14 - - Infant Jesus. Crayon drawing at West Point 44 - - Old Wanton Mansion in Newport 66 - - General Stevens at the age of 23, from a miniature by Staigg 74 - - Margaret Lyman Stevens, from a miniature by Staigg 76 - - Low Horn, Piegan Chief 374 - - Charles H. Mason, Secretary of the Territory, from a photograph 414 - - -MAPS AND PLANS - - Route, Vera Cruz to Mexico 118 - - Battle of Cerro Gordo 124 - - The Valley of Mexico 162 - - Battlefields in the Valley of Mexico--Contreras, Churubusco, - Chapultepec, Molino del Rey, Mexico 172 - - - - - THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS - - - - - CHAPTER I - - ANCESTRY.--BIRTHPLACE - - -About 1640 a mere handful of English colonists went out from Boston, and -made the first settlement in the town of Andover, Essex County, -Massachusetts. They laid out their homes on the Cochichewick, a stream -which flows out of the Great Pond in North Andover, and falls into the -Merrimac River on the south side a few miles below Lawrence. The infant -settlement was known as Cochichewick until 1646, when it was -incorporated as a town under its present name, after the Andover in -Hampshire, England, the birthplace of some of the settlers. - -Among the first who thus planted their hearthstones in the wilderness -was John Stevens. His name stands fifth in an old list in the town -records containing "the names of all the householders in order as they -came to town." The mists of the past still allow a few glimpses of this -sturdy Puritan settler. He was admitted a freeman of the colony, June 2, -1641 (Old Style). He was appointed by the General Court, May 15, 1654, -one of a committee of three to settle the boundary between the towns of -Haverhill and Salisbury, a duty satisfactorily performed. He was -sergeant in the military company of the town, a post then equivalent to -captain or commander. According to Savage, N.E. Genealogies, vol. i., p. -186, John Stevens lived at Caversham, County Oxford, England, and came -to America in the Confidence from Southampton in 1638. - -Large, substantial head and foot stones of slate, sculptured and -lettered in the quaint fashion of his day, still mark the resting-place -of John Stevens, after the storms of now two and a third centuries, in -the oldest graveyard of Cochichewick, situated opposite the Kittredge -mansion, and about half a mile north of the old parish meeting-house in -North Andover. He died April 11, 1662, in the fifty-seventh year of his -age, and was therefore thirty-five years old when he founded his future -home. John Stevens was evidently a man of note and substance, the worthy -progenitor of a prolific family, which has filled Andover with his -descendants, and put forth from time to time strong, flourishing -branches into all quarters of the country. It may indeed be safely said -that there is scarcely a State in the Union which does not contain -descendants of this sturdy Puritan. - -His son Nathan, the first male child born in Andover, lies buried near -him under a broad freestone slab with an inscription to "Coun^{clr} -Nathan Stevens, who deceased February y^e 19, 1717, in y^e 75 year of -his age." The memorials of many others of his descendants stand thickly -scattered through the quaint old burial-ground. Not the least -interesting of these relics is a stone "In memory of Primus, who was a -faithful servant of Mr. Benjamin Stevens, Jr., who died July 25, 1792, -aged 72 years, 5 months, and 16 days." - -A vigorous, long-lived race sprang from the loins of this first settler -John, a hardy, thrifty race of plain New England farmers, honest and -straightforward, with plenty of solid, shrewd good sense, bearing -manfully the toils and hardships of colonial days, and contributing its -quota of ministers and deacons to the church, and officers and -soldiers to the wars with the Indians and the French. In 1679 a grant of -land was made to Ephraim Stevens, son of the first settler, in -recompense of his losses by the Indians. In 1689 Lieutenant John -Stevens, another son, perished in the expedition against Louisburg. In -1698 Abiel Stevens, a grandson, was captured by the Indians, but made -his escape. In 1755 Captain Asa Stevens and Ensign James Stevens died in -the Lake George campaign. Upon the state muster-rolls appear the names -of twelve Stevenses of Andover as soldiers in the Revolution. - -[Illustration: GRAVE OF JOHN STEVENS] - -The subject of this work, Isaac Ingalls Stevens, was the seventh in -direct descent from John Stevens, the founder of Andover,--1 John -Stevens, 2 Joseph, 3 James, 4 James, 5 Jonathan, 6 Isaac, 7 Isaac -Ingalls Stevens. - -Joseph was the fourth son of the first settler John. He was deacon in -the church. He married Mary Ingalls May 20, 1679, and died February 25, -1743, aged 88. - -James was the second son of Joseph, married Dorothy Fry, March, 1712, -and died May 25, 1769, aged 84. He participated in the military affairs -and contests with the Indians and French of his times, commanded a -company at the capture of Louisburg, and for his services was granted a -tract of land in Maine. He was a deputy to the General Court. His -gravestone bears the title of captain. - -Captain James's eldest son was also named James. He was born in 1720, -and married Sarah Peabody in 1745. This James was an energetic, -promising young man, with a young wife and two boys, when in 1754 a -recruiting party with colors, drum, and fife went about Andover beating -up recruits for the French and Indian war then raging. The young men all -hung back. "Make me a captain," said James Stevens, "and I will raise a -company for the war." This remark led to his receiving the commission -of ensign. He raised a company of the young men of Andover, and marched -away at their head to the shores of Lake George, in New York, where, -November 28, 1755, he died of camp fever, with the rank of lieutenant. - -His eldest son, Jonathan, inherited a due share of his father's spirit, -for we find him hastening to Bunker Hill, and fighting manfully in the -battle. He served on other occasions during the Revolutionary war, and -after a successful dash upon the enemy writes the following interesting -letter to his sister:-- - - LOVING SISTER,--These will inform you that I am very well at - present, and have been so ever since I came from home, and I hope - you and all my friends enjoy the same state of health. - - We have been up to Ticonderoga and took almost four hundred - prisoners of the British Army, and relieved one hundred of our men - that were prisoners there. - - Our army have come from Ticonderoga down as far as Pawlet, about - sixty miles, and expect to march to Stillwater very soon. So no more - at present. - - I remain, Your Loving Brother, - JONATHAN STEVENS. - - PAWLET, October ye 1st, 1777. - -Jonathan married Susannah Bragg, December 15, 1773, and raised thirteen -children,--Jonathan, Susannah, James, Dolly, Jeremy, Hannah, Isaac, -Nathaniel, Dolly, Moses, Sarah, Oliver, and William. - -He united the business of a currier and tanner to his ancestral pursuit -of farming, and achieved the modest independence he so well merited. The -house that he occupied for many years stood on the old road that passed -along the western border of the Cochichewick meadows, that were long -since flooded and converted into a lake, the extension of the Great -Pond, for the water supply of the woolen mills of his son Nathaniel, and -the cellar is still visible on the west side of the road, some three -hundred yards from its junction with the road from the village of North -Andover to the mills. He afterwards built one of those large, square, -substantial mansions, once common in New England, on the crest of the -high ground east of the village, and commanding noble views of the -hamlet, the Great Pond, and the Cochichewick valley and the mills. This -house was unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1876. - -Jonathan Stevens purchased, for sixpence an acre, a large tract of land -in Maine, which he divided into three farms, and bestowed upon his sons -Jonathan, James, and Isaac. They settled, and named the place Andover, -after their native town, and the descendants of the two former still -reside there. - -Jonathan Stevens was a tall, large man of fresh, ruddy complexion and -fine appearance. He was fond of relating the incidents of the battle of -Bunker Hill, and used to recount the tale to his children and -grandchildren every Fourth of July,--how Putnam went along the line and -commanded them not to fire until they could see the whites of the -Redcoats' eyes; and how Abbot, the strongest man in town, bore a wounded -comrade off the field on his back. On the anniversary of the battle he -invariably invited his comrades in the fight to his house, and -entertained them with New England rum and hearty, old-fashioned -hospitality, while the veterans fought the battle o'er again. He sat -among the veterans of the battle at Webster's magnificent oration in -dedication of the Bunker Hill monument. On his eighty-fourth birthday he -worked with his men in the hay field, keeping up with the best all day, -and suffered no ill effect from the unwonted exertion. He died April 13, -1834, at the age of eighty-seven. In 1799 he gave the tract of land upon -which was erected Franklin Academy, on the hill north of the -meeting-house. - -Jonathan's brother James, Captain James's other son, also served in the -Revolutionary war, and left a diary of the siege of Boston, recently -discovered in the garret of an old mansion in Andover, which opens like -an epic:-- - - "April ye 19, 1775. This morning about seven o'clock we had a larum - that the Regulars were gone to Concord. We gathered to the meeting - house, and then started for Concord. We went through Tewksbury into - Billerica. We stopped at Pollard's, and ate some biscuits and cheese - on the common. We started and went on to Bedford, and we heard that - the Regulars had gone back to Boston. So we went through Bedford. As - we went into Lexington we went to the meeting house, and there we - came to the destruction of the Regulars. They killed eight of our - men, and shot a cannon ball through the meeting house. We went along - through Lexington, and we saw several Regulars dead on the road, and - some of our men, and three or four houses were burnt, and some - horses and hogs were killed. They plundered in every house they - could get into. They stove in windows and broke in tops of desks. We - met the men a coming back very fast," etc. - -Jonathan's fourth son was Isaac, born in 1785. On reaching manhood he -went before the mast on a voyage to China, and brought back, as a gift -to his mother, a beautiful china tea-set. After his return from sea he -went to Andover, Maine, to settle upon the lands bestowed by his father -upon himself and brothers, Jonathan and James. - -With characteristic energy, Isaac Stevens set to work clearing his land, -and reducing rebellious nature to orderly submission. While thus at work -in the woods one day, a heavy tree fell upon and crushed him to the -earth; his left leg was terribly mangled, the bones broken in two -places, and he received other serious injuries. The doctors insisted -that the leg must be taken off in order to save his life, but Isaac -Stevens with inflexible resolution refused to allow the amputation, and -after a long, painful illness finally recovered. The limb, however, in -the process of healing, became materially shorter and permanently -stiffened, so that he was unable to bend the knee joint, and during the -remainder of his life the wound broke out afresh periodically, and -caused him great suffering. As soon as he was sufficiently recovered to -bear the journey, he returned to his native Andover, where, under his -mother's careful nursing, he slowly recovered from the terrible injuries -he had received. - -It was at this time that he formed an attachment with Hannah Cummings, -the daughter of a sterling farmer family like his own, and who united to -a warm and affectionate heart, noble and elevated sentiments, strong -good sense, and untiring industry. Their marriage followed soon after, -on the 29th of September, 1814. He now relinquished the project of -settling in Maine, and hired an old farmhouse with some twenty acres of -land of Mr. Bridges. This house, one of the oldest in Andover, is -situated at the end of Marble Ridge, a short distance south of the Great -Pond, and at the point where the road from the village to Haverhill, -after crossing the Essex Railroad, forks, the left branch leading on to -Haverhill, while the other turns short to the right and conducts to -Marble Ridge Station. The solid timbers and stockaded sides of the rear -part of this old house--for the front is a later structure--were the -mute witnesses of a stratagem in early Indian troubles as novel as it -proved successful. The stout-hearted farmer settler was alone, with his -wife and little ones about him, one night, when he discovered a large -party of savages stealthily approaching, and spreading out so as to -encompass his house. Hastily barricading the doors, he seized his -trumpet, which he bore as trumpeter of the military company of the -settlement, stole unperceived out of the house, caught and mounted his -horse, and, making a circuit through the fields, gained the high road -between the Indians and the village. Then, putting spurs to his steed, -and pealing blast upon blast from his trumpet, he charged furiously down -upon the Indians, now in the very act of assailing his domicile, who, -thinking no doubt that the whole force of the country-side was upon -them, incontinently fled into the forest. - -Judged by the standard of these days, the young couple had an -unpromising future. They were very poor, the husband a cripple, and they -held as tenants a few barren acres from which to extract a livelihood. -But Isaac Stevens now toiled early and late with untiring energy; he -saved at every point, and turned everything to account with true Yankee -thrift. He built a malt-house, and after laboring on the farm from -earliest dawn until dark, would work at preparing the malt until late in -the evening. His farm embraced a large meadow lying on both sides of the -Cochichewick, just below where it issued from the Great Pond, but now -flooded by the milldams still lower down, where he cut vast quantities -of meadow hay, with which he filled his barns and fed a goodly number of -horned stock during the long, rigorous winters, realizing thereby a -handsome profit in the spring. His young wife joined her efforts to his, -and frequently cut and made clothing for the neighbors around, in -addition to the unceasing and arduous labors of a farmer's wife. Such -thrift and industry could not fail of success. The Bridges house and -land were purchased, largely on mortgage at first; then the wet meadow -was added; then a goodly tract of generous land was bought of the -father, Jonathan Stevens, and other fields and tracts were added from -time to time. During the thirteen years following their marriage, the -first scanty holding grew to a farm of one hundred and fifty acres of -their own, and free from debt. Seven children, too, came to bless their -union and increase their cares. Then the devoted wife and mother died, -November 3, 1827, leaving this helpless little flock, the oldest of whom -was but twelve and the youngest two years of age. Henceforth life was a -heavy and unceasing labor to Isaac Stevens. The little farm grew no -larger, and all his efforts were now required to maintain his family and -keep free from debt. Two years afterwards he married Ann Poor, of North -Andover, impelled by his situation and circumstances, with so many -helpless children about him and the household economy of the farm -unprovided for. The second wife failed to restore the happiness of home. -She had no children, and died in 1866, four years after her husband. - -Isaac Stevens was a man of deeply marked and noble characteristics. His -fortitude was severely tested by the misfortune which left him a -lifelong cripple. His cool courage and inflexible resolution are best -illustrated by his manner of dealing with a dangerous bull he once -owned. This animal grew daily more and more savage, until every one -stood in fear of it except the owner, who, as often happens in such -cases, persisted in thinking it quite harmless. At length, however, the -bull one day chased a neighbor, who had imprudently ventured to cross -the field in which it pastured, and overtaking him just as he reached -the fence, tossed him high in air, so that falling fortunately on the -farther side of the inclosure, he escaped with no more serious injuries -than some severe bruises and a broken nose. The bull, furious at the -escape of his prey, was bellowing and pawing the ground. "The bull must -be shot!" cried the man who helped off the injured neighbor. But Isaac -Stevens at once armed himself with a stout cudgel, coolly hobbled into -the field, disregarding all remonstrances and entreaties, fixed his eye -upon the enraged beast, backed him into a narrow corner where he could -not escape, and thrashed him over the head with the club with such -terrible severity that he was completely subdued, and ever after -remained perfectly gentle and submissive. - -Always strictly observing the Sabbath, he held liberal views of religion -and attended the Unitarian Church. He kept himself informed of the -current events of the day, taking the New York "Tribune" and Garrison's -"Liberator," and manifesting the greatest interest in education, -temperance, anti-slavery, and every cause that would make mankind better -or happier. "How he denied himself all comforts almost, and _quietly_ -sent money to free the slave and for the temperance cause! He was a -strong pillar of the foundation principles of right and justice that it -would be well for young men of this day to study," said one who knew him -well. - -He was, above all, a man of perfect integrity and truth, and of a strict -sense of justice. There was not a fibre of guile or indirection in his -moral nature. He held strong and ardent convictions, noble and lofty -ideals of duty and philanthropy, and an intense hatred and scorn of -wrong or oppression in any form. He strongly opposed and denounced the -use of liquors and tobacco, and became early in life a vehement and -outspoken abolitionist of slavery, at a period when the advocacy of such -doctrines demanded unusual moral courage as well as stern conviction of -right. At his decease, years afterwards, he bequeathed five hundred -dollars to the Anti-Slavery Society, requiring only that Wendell -Phillips should deliver a lecture in the parish church of North Andover. - -The untiring industry which, with his frugality and good management, -enabled him to achieve comparative independence so early in life, was -not the course of a drudge and miser, but of an ardent, resolute spirit -spurning poverty, debt, and dependence. All through life he manifested -an unconquerable aversion to debt. He loved a fast horse, and the old -mare which he kept until she died, over twenty-seven years old, was, in -her prime, the fastest in the town. After reading a newspaper or book, -he was in the habit of giving it to a neighbor, telling him to hand it -to another after perusing it. He took great pains with his orchards, and -planted apple-trees along the stone walls bordering his fields. He also -planted the noble elms now overhanging the old farmhouse, and the long -lines of this graceful tree now bordering the road from the house to the -crest of the hill overlooking the village and the road over Marble -Ridge, and the numerous clumps and rows in his fields wherever a sightly -eminence seemed to require such an adornment. - -His children were:-- - - HANNAH PEABODY, born September 24, 1815, died November 24, 1840. - SUSAN BRAGG, born February 14, 1817, died April 8, 1841. - ISAAC INGALLS, born March 25, 1818, died September 1, 1862. - ELIZABETH BARKER, born July 14, 1819, died December 10, 1846. - SARAH ANN, born January 13, 1822, died February 8, 1844. - MARY JANE, born August 5, 1823, died June 22, 1847. - OLIVER, born June 22, 1825. - -The following account of the ancestry of Hannah Cummings is given by her -nephew, Dr. George Mooar, D.D., of Oakland, California, who has -collected much information concerning the Cummings genealogy:-- - - "Hannah, wife of Isaac Stevens, was the third child of Deacon Asa - and Hannah (Peabody) Cummings, born October 23, 1785, married - September 29, 1814, and died November 3, 1827. - - "The line from her father to the first American ancestor runs thus: - Asa (6), Thomas (5), Joseph (4), Abraham (3), John (2), Isaac (1). - - "Deacon Asa was born in Andover, Massachusetts, but removed in 1798 - to Albany, Maine, a pioneer settler there, a trusted, intelligent, - and capable citizen, who in 1803 represented his district in the - General Court. - - "Captain Thomas (5) was born in Topsfield and died September 3, - 1765. He married Anna Kittell, the widow of Asa Johnson, of Andover. - - "Captain Joseph (4), of Topsfield, was quite a character. The - biographer of Dr. Manasseh Cutler says that he found among the - papers of that eminent person a notice of Captain Cummings in which - he is spoken of as a remarkable man, well versed in the politics of - the day, and he adds: 'From the interest Dr. Cutler felt in him, he - must have been a stanch patriot and Federalist.' In a notice which - appears in the 'Salem Gazette' we are told that when nearly a - hundred he would readily mount his horse from the ground. He died in - his one hundred and second year. - - "Abraham (3) was a resident of Woburn and of Dunstable. - - "John (2) was quite a large proprietor in Boxford, Massachusetts, - and later was one of the first fourteen proprietors of the town of - Dunstable. - - "Isaac (1) appears on a list of the 'Commoners of Ipswich in 1641, - but appears to have arrived in America three years before. No exact - knowledge of his previous residence in Great Britain has been - obtained. The prevailing tradition gives him a Scottish descent.' - - "An elder brother of Hannah Cummings was Dr. Asa Cummings, D.D., of - Portland, Maine, eminent for classical learning and piety, and - editor of the 'Christian Mirror' for many years." - - - - - CHAPTER II - - BIRTH.--BOYHOOD - - -ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS first saw the light at the old Marble Ridge -farmhouse, on the 25th of March, 1818. He was a delicate infant, and it -was impossible for his mother, with her other little ones and the -engrossing labors of the farmhouse, to bestow upon him the care his -condition required. His grandmother, one day visiting the farm, was -shocked to see him still in his cradle, though three years old, and, -remarking that unless he was taught soon he never would walk, insisted -upon taking him home with her, where, under her gentle and experienced -hands, he quickly learned to run about. After returning home his father -used to plunge him, fresh from bed, into a hogshead of cold water every -morning. - -Such heroic treatment would be sure to kill or cure, and perhaps no -better proof could be given of the native vigor of his constitution than -the fact that he lived, and became strong, active, and hardy. - -Even as a child he was active, daring, and adventurous. He used to climb -the lofty elms in front of his grandfather's house, and cling like a -squirrel to the topmost branches, laughing and chattering defiance to -his grandmother's commands and entreaties to come down. - -One afternoon Abiel Holt, the hired man on the farm, went a-fishing for -pickerel, and took Isaac, who was then a very little urchin just able to -run about cleverly. After catching a fine string of fish, they came to -the old causeway which crossed the water where now stands the dam under -the Essex Railroad, but which was then submerged several feet deep in -the water for some distance. - -A rude footway had been contrived here by driving down forked stakes at -suitable intervals along the causeway, and placing loose poles in the -crotches from stake to stake, forming one row for the feet and another a -little higher for the hands. - -The contrivance was rickety and unsafe to the last degree; the poles -swayed and bent at every step, and it required great care and the use of -both feet and hands to avoid a ducking. It was now time to drive up the -cows, which were pasturing beyond the water; so Holt, bidding the child -remain there, crossed over after them, taking with him the string of -fish, which he hung up on one of the stakes on the farther side, for he -wanted the pleasure of taking his spoils home in triumph, and feared, if -he left them with Isaac, the latter would take them and run home while -he was away. On returning he was struck with consternation to find no -trace of either the child or the fish. He carefully scrutinized the -water without result, and at length slowly returned to the farmhouse, -filled with misgivings, and was not a little relieved to find both his -charge and his fish safe at home. The child had worked his way across -the water by the poles, although, standing on the lower row, he could -hardly reach the upper one with extended arms, and had returned, holding -the string of fish in his teeth, in the same way. His father ever after -was particularly fond of relating this anecdote in proof of the daring -and adventurous spirit so early manifested. - -[Illustration: BIRTHPLACE OF GENERAL STEVENS, ANDOVER, MASS. - _From Historical Sketches of Andover, by Sarah Loring - Bailey_] - -He was a sensitive, earnest child, not demonstrative, but having great -affection and tenderness, which he lavished upon his mother. Her early -death was his first and greatest misfortune. When he was only seven -years old, his father, who always drove furiously, in driving with -his wife in his wagon rapidly around a corner, overset the vehicle. They -were thrown out violently upon the ground, and the unfortunate mother -struck upon her head. From this shock she never really recovered, and -died two years after the unhappy accident. During this period Isaac -attached himself closely to his mother, and acquired no slight influence -over her. The early death of this tender and devoted wife and mother -well-nigh destroyed the happiness of her family. Isaac ever cherished -her memory with the tenderest veneration. He thought that from her were -inherited great part of his talents, and that had she lived he would -have been spared the injudicious forcing of his mind in his childhood, -to which he always declared he owed a real mental injury. - -After the mother's death, a housekeeper was employed to provide for the -helpless little flock, and attend to the household duties; and two years -later the father married his second wife, Ann Poor. - -Isaac was sent to school before his fifth year, where from the first he -displayed great power of memory, close application, and devotion to -study. His teachers were astonished to find that he did not stop at the -end of the day's lesson, but habitually learned far beyond it, often -reciting page after page. It was said that there was no need of telling -Isaac how much to study; it was enough to show him where to begin, and -he would learn more than the teacher cared to hear. His first teacher, -Miss Susan Foster, said with astonishment one day, after hearing his -lesson in arithmetic, "There is no use for me to teach him arithmetic; -he is already far beyond me in that." - -After his tenth year he attended Franklin Academy, in North -Andover,--Old Put's school, as it was usually and more familiarly -styled,--kept by Mr. Simon Putnam, who attained great repute as a -teacher. This was situated on the hill north of the meeting-house, on -land given for the purpose by grandfather Jonathan. Here he studied the -usual English branches. Among his schoolmates were William Endicott, -Jr., the well-known philanthropist, Hon. Daniel Saunders, the late -George B. Loring, and Major George T. Clark. It appears that wrestling -was a favorite sport with the active and hardy boys at this school. - -His father, proud and ambitious on his account, kept him constantly at -school, and urged on to still greater efforts this earnest, ardent -nature, intense in everything he undertook. The evil effects of such -mistaken treatment soon made themselves felt. His mind became wearied -and dull from overtasking. The teacher advised rest. The boy, then but -ten years old, begged his father to take him out of school and let him -work on the farm, telling him that he could no longer study; that he -could not learn his lessons. But the father refused, not realizing the -son's condition, and bade him go back to school and study what he could. -Isaac then went to his uncle Nathaniel, who owned the Cochichewick -woolen mills, situated two miles below the farm, and obtained his -permission to work in the factory for a year. He prevailed upon his -grandmother to let him lodge at her house in order to be nearer the -factory; and having thus decided upon his course, went home and informed -his father of the arrangements he had made, who, astonished at the -judgment and resolution of the boy, acquiesced. So Isaac went to work in -the factory, lodging at his grandfather's, rising long before daylight -that he might eat a hurried breakfast, walk a mile to the factory, and -begin the day's work at five o'clock in the morning, and toiling ten to -twelve hours a day. He entered the weavers' room, where he soon learned -to manage a loom. The best weavers were women, it seems, and able to -run two looms apiece. Isaac at once determined to excel the most -capable; and before he left the factory, succeeded in reaching the goal -of his ambition, and managed four looms unassisted. - -After a year of this unremitting labor, he left the mills. As he was -returning home with the scanty sum he had earned in his pocket, taking -it to his father, he passed a shop where some tempting hot gingerbread -was displayed for sale, and felt an intense longing to buy a -penny-worth; but reflecting that his earnings belonged to his father, -and it would be wrong for him to spend any of them, he overcame the -desire and went home. But when he handed the money to his father, and -asked for a cent to buy the gingerbread with, he felt stung to the quick -by the latter's refusal. In truth, the father's hard struggle with -poverty and adverse circumstances had narrowed his noble nature. Too -much had life become to him nothing but hard work, self-sacrifice, and a -severe sense of duty. He did not appreciate the sensitive nature of a -child, and its needs of sympathy, recreation, and occasional indulgence. - -Directly across the road from the house was a small pool called the -frog-pond. Isaac selected a corner of this pond for his garden, filled -it up with stones, and covered them with rich earth brought from a -distance in his little cart with great pains and labor. He eagerly -seized every moment that could be spared from school and his unceasing -round of morning and evening chores to devote to this darling project. -At last the garden was prepared, and planted with his own favorite -seeds. But his father, fearing that it might distract and take up too -much time from his studies and duties about the farm, rudely uprooted -his tenderly cared-for plants, and put in potatoes instead. - -On another occasion his father's injudicious urging nearly proved -fatal. Isaac was helping in the hay-field, and was working with such -ardor and had accomplished so much that his father was actually -astonished. Instead of restraining, he praised him without stint. Under -this stimulus the ambitious boy redoubled his exertions until he was -prostrated by a sunstroke, resulting in a raging fever, from which he -barely escaped with life after a severe sickness. - -On another occasion, when twelve years old, he was working in the -hay-field, pitching hay upon the cart; he was badly ruptured, and had to -be carried to the house. As soon as he was able to travel he went alone -to Boston, and sought out Dr. Warren, a noted surgeon, and laid his case -before him. Dr. Warren was so much struck with the lad's courage and -intelligence that he refused to accept any fee. "If you do exactly what -I tell you, you will get well," he said, "and I know you will do so from -looking in your face." The surgeon had a truss made, and prescribed -treatment, but all the remainder of his life Isaac was obliged to wear -the truss, although he outgrew the injury in a measure until it broke -out afresh in Mexico from over-exertion. - -Measured by modern conditions, it was a severe and laborious home life -in which the farmer's boy grew up, but it was a wholesome one, and well -adapted to bring out all his powers. Morning and evening, throughout the -year, he had his round of duties, feeding and milking the cows, feeding -the pigs, cutting and bringing in wood, etc. During the winter he rose -long before daylight to attend to these chores and shovel snow from the -paths, then after a hasty breakfast trudged away to school, and on -returning again resumed the round of unending farm work. In summer there -was no school for three or four months, and then he worked on the farm, -hoeing corn, making hay, driving oxen, and performing all the hard and -varied labors of a New England farmer's son. But the New England farmers -of that day were the owners of the soil. They knew no superiors. The -Revolutionary struggle, as recent to them as the great Rebellion is to -us, was fresh and vivid in their minds, and stimulated noble ideas of -liberty and national independence. The standard of personal honesty, -manhood, and morals, bequeathed from their Puritan ancestry, was high. -Such was the moral atmosphere of Isaac Stevens's household, heightened -by his own earnest, philanthropic, and elevated sentiments. All his -children were intellectual and high-minded, and nothing can be more -touching than the constant ambition and striving of his five daughters -for education and self-improvement. All became teachers, but died young, -victims of consumption. - -Nor was the life of the youth nothing but a round of hard work and -privation. If he worked hard and studied hard, he enjoyed play with -equal zest, and shared the rougher sports of those days with his cousins -and other boys of his age. They were more pugnacious and rougher than -nowadays. Wrestling was a common sport, and boyish fights and scuffles -were usual. - -At the age of fifteen he entered Phillips Academy in Andover. Nathan W. -Hazen, Esq., a well-known and respected lawyer of the town, furnished -him board and lodgings, in return for which he took care of the garden, -and did the chores about the place. One of his schoolmates, describing -his first appearance at the academy, said: "The door opened, and there -quietly entered an insignificant, small boy, carrying in his arms a load -of books nearly as large as himself. But the impression of -insignificance vanished as soon as one regarded his large head, earnest -face, and firm, searching, and fearless dark hazel eye." - -He remained at the academy over a year. As usual, he took the front -rank from the beginning. His reputation as a scholar, especially in -mathematics, extended beyond the school. Besides his studies he took -sole care of Mr. Hazen's garden, a half acre in extent, groomed the -horse, milked the cow, and fed them, cut and brought in the wood, and -did many other jobs about the house, performing an amount of labor, as -Mr. Hazen declared, sufficient to dismay many a hired man. He studied -early in the morning and late at night. His power of concentrating his -mind upon any subject was extraordinary. His industry was untiring. The -impress this boy of fifteen made upon those with whom he came in contact -during his stay at this place is really remarkable. Mr. Hazen, who -proved a considerate friend and adviser to the struggling youth, relates -that every evening Isaac would bring his chair close to the office -table, at which the former was accustomed to read or write, in order to -avail himself of the light, and would work out mathematical problems on -his slate. He would remain quietly with his hand to his head in deep -thought for a little time, when suddenly he would shower a perfect -rainstorm of figures upon his slate without hesitation, or erasure, -oftentimes completely filling it. Generally the correct result was -reached; but when the solution was not found the first time, he would -rapidly wipe off every figure and begin again as before. His mind always -sought out and mastered the bottom principle. It was remarked that, -whenever he had once solved a problem, he could unhesitatingly solve all -others of the same character. - -On one occasion a mathematician of some note, who had just published a -new arithmetic, brought his work to the academy, and tested the -acquirements of the scholars by giving them his new problems to solve. -When Isaac was called to the blackboard, he astonished the author and -the teacher alike by the ease and rapidity with which he solved every -example. They plied him again and again with the most difficult -problems, but he mastered them in every instance. "Well, sir," exclaimed -the author, somewhat piqued, "I think you could make the key to this -book." Isaac took the book, and in three days returned it with every -example worked out. - -A very difficult problem was sent from Yale College to the academy. -While the teachers and scholars were puzzling over it, Isaac sat in -thought for half an hour with his hand to his head, then rapidly worked -out the problem on his slate and presented the solution. - -Young as he was, it seems that he had thought enough on religious -subjects to become a decided Universalist and Unitarian. A religious -revival took place while he was at the academy, and many of the scholars -were brought within its influence. Among others, one of the teachers -became "converted," and sought all means to promote a similar experience -among his pupils. In order to remove the stumbling-blocks of doubt and -ignorance, he offered to answer any questions they might propound on -religious topics. The first question Isaac put, "Can a sincere -Universalist be saved?" was met by a decided and uncompromising "No." -But the youth plied the unfortunate zealot with such queries that he was -forced to confess his inability to answer them, and to withdraw his -offer. Once, when he wanted the whole class to attend one of the revival -meetings, he put it to them that all who were willing to dispense with -the afternoon session and attend the meeting should rise. All promptly -stood up except Isaac, who resolutely kept his seat. "Every one in favor -except Stevens," exclaimed the teacher with some bitterness, realizing -the protest against his own bigotry. In truth, the youth's sense of -right had been shocked by the doctrines he heard advanced; he was -strongly opposed to such revival meetings, and his earnest nature would -not bend in a matter of principle. - -At one of these meetings his two sisters, Hannah and Susan, yielded to -the exhortations and influences of the occasion, and took their seats on -the converts' or mourners' bench, as it was called. Perceiving this, -Isaac immediately marched up to the front, and made them both leave the -church with him, no slight proof of his influence over them, older than -himself. In fact, while they felt great pride in his talents, his -sisters had come still more to respect and lean upon his sound judgment -and firm will. He lavished upon them all the great tenderness and -affection of his strong and earnest nature. - -During his boyhood he was affected with excessive diffidence, or -bashfulness. With characteristic resolution and good sense, he set -himself to overcome this weakness. He made it a point always to address -any one whose presence inspired this awkward feeling, but, he said, it -was years before he overcame it. - -After a year and four months of this severe application, Isaac completed -his course at Phillips Academy. He wished to study law with Mr. Hazen, -but that gentleman discouraged the idea. At this juncture his uncle, -William Stevens, suggested West Point, and wrote to Mr. Gayton P. -Osgood, the member of Congress for the North Essex District, in which -Andover was situated, inquiring if there was an appointment in his gift, -and suggesting Isaac's name. Mr. Osgood replied that there was no -vacancy. But uncle William was not satisfied; he wrote to William C. -Phillips, the member representing the South Essex District, by whom he -was informed that no cadet had been appointed from Mr. Osgood's -district. Accordingly he formally made application in behalf of his -nephew. A lawyer by profession, and cashier of the Andover bank, he was -a man of some influence. Mr. Hazen and other friends joined their -recommendations. Mr. Phillips exerted a favorable influence, and -although there were other candidates with more influential backing, Mr. -Osgood bestowed upon Isaac the desired appointment. Both uncle William -and Mr. Hazen declared that the recommendations had little weight, and -that Mr. Osgood selected him on account of his reputation for ability -and scholarship. - - - - - CHAPTER III - - WEST POINT - - -The following letter to his uncle William, written immediately after his -arrival at West Point, vividly portrays the mingled emotions that -stirred the heart of the raw but ambitious country youth on reaching the -goal of his boyish hopes,--his ardent patriotism, awakened by the -historic scenes about him; his ambition and determination to be first in -his class, "by unflinching resolution, indomitable perseverance, fixing -his whole soul upon the object he wishes to attain with concentrated and -undivided attention;" his gratitude to his uncle and friends for his -appointment, and his affectionate regard for his family. It is also -significant of his self-reliant character that he expresses no fears in -regard to the impending examination for admission, but remarks, with -well-grounded confidence, that "there can be no difficulty in sustaining -myself with honor and respectability." - - WEST POINT, June 13, 1835. - - DEAR UNCLE,--I now enjoy the long-anticipated happiness of - addressing you from West Point. And perhaps you may ask, does it - meet my expectations? I am not prepared to answer this question - fully at present, but will say that I like my situation, although - subject to very strict regulations, and fully believe there can be - no difficulty in obeying every regulation and sustaining myself with - honor and respectability. And be assured that I always shall - consider myself greatly indebted to you for your kind exertions in - my behalf, and it shall be my determination to demean myself in such - a manner as to convince you and all my friends that their exertions - have not been thrown away. Here I am surrounded by young men from - every State in the Union, who are eagerly endeavoring to arrive at - distinction, many of whom have determined, and, what is better - still, will make every exertion to carry their resolve into effect, - to be first in their class. - - Every one must buckle on his armor for the conflict: let him be - girded with unflinching resolution, indomitable perseverance, - decision and firmness of mind, singleness of purpose, integrity of - heart, let him fix his _whole_ soul upon the object he wishes to - attain with concentrated and undivided attention, and he will - undoubtedly, with scarcely the possibility of a doubt, obtain the - post of honor. - - The first class graduated yesterday. The whole number attached to - this class was 54, which is the greatest number that ever graduated - at any one time from this institution. There were splendid fireworks - last evening, which lasted until nine o'clock. All the cadets were - permitted to partake of the sport. It is said that the cadets who - leave here are so affected that they even shed tears. Is it to be - wondered at? Is there a spot in the whole United States which is - associated with so many hallowed and pleasing recollections of the - patriotism, of the struggles, and of the victories of our - Revolutionary fathers? We are as it were in the cradle of liberty, - in the stronghold of freedom, and may we be scions worthy of the - tears and of the blood of our Revolutionary sires: may I not - disgrace my country, my State, and that character of proud disdain - and patriotic valor which inspired the heroes of Andover on the morn - of Bunker's fight; and above all may I cherish that love of freedom - and sympathy for the sufferings of mankind which characterized the - life of Washington, of Kosciusko, and the other worthies of the - Revolution; and in fine may I cherish a heart full of gratitude for - those kind friends who by their exertions have assisted me to - procure my present situation. I shall be examined Monday, and the - encampment will be pitched on Tuesday. We shall have no uniforms - until the 4th of July, at which time the new cadets mount guard. As - soon as I have entered upon the active duties of the station, I - shall again write to Andover. Give my love to father, mother, - brother and sisters, to your own family, and all inquiring friends, - remembering me especially to grandmother. I remain your grateful - nephew, - - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - WM. STEVENS, ESQ. - - -He entered the academy resolved to place himself at the head of his -class, not in presumptuous or ignorant self-confidence, but fully -recognizing the arduous struggle before him. A boy of seventeen, with -scanty advantages of education, but inured to hard work and hard study, -he did not hesitate to contest the palm with youths older and far better -prepared than himself, of whom two at least had received a collegiate -education, and had publicly avowed their determination to attain the -first place. These were Henry W. Halleck, of New York, distinguished as -major-general, and at one time commanding the army in the war of the -Rebellion, and Henry J. Biddle, of Philadelphia, both of whom were older -in years, of assured social position and wealthy connections, -accomplished French scholars, and well up in mathematics; and one may -fancy the derision with which they regarded the rivalry of the -undersized farmer's boy from Andover. - - "One evening," says General E.D. Townsend, late adjutant-general of - the army, "a classmate of mine, who was very fond of mathematics, - General Israel Vogdes, came to my room, and told me there was a - 'Plebe' just entered from my State, who was a fine mathematician - already, and would stand 'head of his class in math.' This - interested me, and I went around to offer to assist my - fellow-statesman in entering on his career. This was previous to his - first encampment. I found Mr. Stevens a modest, straightforward - young man, who, in reply to my offer of any assistance I could give - him, informed me he wanted to stand head of his class,--that he was - not afraid of mathematics, but knew nothing whatever of French. I at - once suggested to him to do what was sometimes but not often done, - to apply for permission to take lessons during the encampment of one - of the professors, for which a small compensation would be allowed - to be deducted from Mr. Stevens's pay. He caught at this idea, and - subsequently carried it out. The result was he stood fourteenth in - French in the first January examination, and first in mathematics. - This did not satisfy him, as I found on congratulating him on what - I deemed a most creditable standing. The next June examination, by - his untiring application, he stood head both in mathematics and - French. There were some four young men in his class who were ripe - scholars when they entered West Point, and who were by no means - wanting in studious habits. - - "The following year, drawing was added to the course. Mr. Stevens - came to me for more advice, saying he had not the slightest notion - of drawing. I suggested to him, first, great care in his outlines to - get them accurate, and then, if he found on trial that he had no - talent for shading, that by using a very fine-pointed crayon, and - making with patience and care light, smooth marks, he might succeed - in producing a well-finished and pretty picture. He came to me - shortly after to say that he had improved upon my hint, for he first - filled in the outline with a fine pencil, and then traced over this - with a coarse one the prominent lines of the picture. Well, he stood - head in drawing, and this although at least one of his competitors - was quite expert with his pencil before he entered the academy. As - might be expected from the beginning, Mr. Stevens graduated at the - head of his class in every branch throughout the course." - -Among his classmates, who afterwards rose to be generals in the army, -will be recognized Henry W. Halleck; Henry J. Hunt, the distinguished -chief of artillery of the Army of the Potomac; George Thom; Edward O.C. -Ord; Edward R. S. Canby, who commanded the army against Mobile in 1865, -and was massacred by the Modocs in 1873, when in command of the -Department of the Columbia; and James B. Ricketts; and in the -Confederate army, Jeremy F. Gilmer. - -Among those in the three classes above him, distinguished as generals in -the army, were Montgomery C. Meiggs, quartermaster-general during the -war, Daniel P. Woodbury, James Lowry Donaldson, Thomas W. Sherman, Henry -H. Lockwood, John W. Phelps, Robert Allen, of the class of '36. - -Henry W. Benham, Alexander B. Dyer, S. Parker Scammon, Israel Vogdes, -Edward D. Townsend, William H. French, John Sedgwick, the soldierly and -steadfast commander of the Sixth Corps, beloved of his troops, Joseph -Hooker, John B.S. Todd, of the class of '37; and on the Confederate -side, Braxton Bragg, Jubal A. Early, Edmond Bradford, and John C. -Pemberton. - -William F. Barry, Irvin C. McDowell, Robert S. Granger, Justus -McKinstry, Charles F. Ruff, and Andrew J. Smith, of the class of '38, -and P.G. T. Beauregard, the distinguished Confederate leader, as also -William J. Hardee, Edward Johnson, and Alexander W. Reynolds. - -In the class of '40 were the distinguished W.T. Sherman, George H. -Thomas, George W. Getty, Stewart Van Vleit, and William Hays; and on the -Southern side, John P. McCawn, Richard S. Ewell, and Bushrod R. Johnson. - -In the class of '41 were Zealous B. Tower, Horatio G. Wright, Amiel W. -Whipple, Albion W. Howe, Nathaniel Lyon, John M. Brannon, and Schuyler -Hamilton. - -In the class of '42 were Henry L. Eustis, John Newton, William S. -Rosecrans, Barton S. Alexander, John Pope, Seth Williams, Abner -Doubleday, Napoleon J.T. Dana, Ralph W. Kirkham, and George Sykes; among -the Confederates, James Longstreet, D.H. Hill, Gustavus W. Smith, -Mansfield Lovell, Lafayette McLaws, and Earl Van Dorn. - -Now fairly entered upon the life and duties of a cadet, his intense and -ardent nature found full occupation. His ambition was aroused. Hard -study agreed with him. The days sped rapidly and pleasantly away. He -fell into companionship with the most talented and high-spirited young -men. Nor, time and attention all absorbed by severe application, did he -sink into a mere bookworm. Every morning before breakfast, rain or -shine, he walked around the post for exercise, a distance of two miles. -He shared, too, in the escapades natural to a free and spirited youth, -and did not always come off scot-free from these scrapes, for his name -stands forty-third on the conduct roll for the first year. - - "I have never been homesick for a single minute since I have been - here," he writes his sisters Hannah and Elizabeth, September 8, - 1835; "I never passed three months more pleasantly in my life, and - since I commenced my studies time never seemed more fleeting. We are - obliged to stand guard once a week, drill every day, have a dress - parade, with roll calls, etc. We study ten and a half hours a day, - two and a half of which are spent in the recitation room. I have - recited four lessons in algebra and three in French, and I think I - can get my maximum unless sick, or otherwise disabled, that is, miss - no questions in any of my studies the coming year. I can get both of - my lessons in half an hour, and I shall have much leisure time. If I - had some Greek books I think I could pass my time to better - advantage. - - "I like the military life very much. There is as fine a set of - fellows here as ever breathed the air. We study hard, eat hearty, - sleep sound, and play little. In camp every one was wide awake for a - scrape, or for any kind of fun. But in barracks we are as sober and - steady as Quakers. We go to the section room with long and solemn - faces. I assure you we know that by study and severe application - alone we can keep our places. I admire the spirit which pervades the - whole class. The common remark is, 'I intend to bone it with all my - might.' _To bone it_ means _to study hard_. Every one seems - determined to rise, or keep his present standing at any rate. We are - divided in four sections in mathematics, and seven in French, - arranged in alphabetical order. Consequently I stand in the last - section in each. A transfer will be made in the course of the week, - those who do best being put in the higher sections, and those who do - worst into the lower sections. I hope to rise in both. That I may do - so, I intend to get my lessons in the best possible manner. It shall - be my aim not only to understand my lessons, but to convince my - instructors that I understand them. To do this I must accustom - myself to collect my ideas readily, to be free from embarrassment - and trepidation, and always to be perfectly calm and - self-possessed." - - TO HANNAH. - - November 28. - - I am doing pretty well. My health is strong and vigorous. I am not - only contented with my situation, but like it very much indeed. We - are kept tremendously strict, I assure you. I was visiting last - Wednesday evening, and they arrested me for it, and did not release - me until this evening, and in addition to that they obliged me to - perform an extra tour of Sunday guard duty, which is very tough, I - assure you, this cold weather. - -Uncle William, it seems, was disappointed at his early standing in the -class, and wrote him rather a reproachful letter of exhortation and -advice, winding up with the wish that he should stand first in -mathematics by the end of the year. In reply he explains that his first -rating was low because his name came near the end of the alphabet. - - WEST POINT, December 5, 1835. - - DEAR UNCLE,--Your letter was received yesterday, and read with much - pleasure. I feel gratified that I still retain your confidence, and - that you expect me to sustain an honorable stand. It is also rather - flattering than otherwise to know that you feel disappointed because - I have nothing more than a respectable standing in my class, for it - shows that your estimate of my abilities is as high as, perhaps - higher than, it should be. I assure you that your wish shall be - gratified not only within the close of the first year, but within - the first six months, if it is within my power. Should my stand be - no higher than at present, you must not feel disappointed. For such - a stand is not only "_very respectable_," but very high in a class - like ours. I beg of you, however, to think no more of the - communication, because my stand even then was much higher than 19. - The sections since then have been rearranged, and I have risen very - much. You must also recollect that at first I was within seven of - the foot both in M. and F. In two weeks I rose 25 men in M. and 80 - in F. I then remained in the second section in mathematics till the - middle of November, when I was transferred to the first section. - - There are only two in our class who have got the maximum at every - recitation both in M. and F. since the commencement of our studies; - these are cadet Biddle from Penn. and a fellow from Mass., whose - birthplace, I believe, is Andover. I am now at the head of my - section in French. My present standing in M. _is_ as _high_ as the - _highest_, and it is considered so by every member of my class. - There are four of us in M. who have done equally well, that is, we - have each of us got the maximum, done all the extras, and - demonstrate equally as well. Their names are H.J. Biddle, of Penn., - I. Butler, of Va., H. W. Halleck, of N.Y., and ----, of Mass. I have - often thought of the advice you gave me, and I hope I have profited - by it. I have spent two hours in studying other authors, and in - learning to demonstrate eloquently and with perspicuity, to every - hour devoted to the text-book. In French I have risen more than any - other man in the class. My stand at first was 67th, now it is 22d. - When I came, I had scarcely looked into a French book for five - years, and could not pronounce a single syllable. And, believe me, - it is not egotism which prompts me to say this, but it is in order - to put to rest all your apprehensions on my account. I also wish to - assure you that I associate with none whom I ought not to respect. - - WEST POINT, December 20, 1835. - - DEAR FATHER,--You have probably received a communication from the - War Department giving my stand for the month of November, which I - hope will give you better satisfaction than the last return. I think - my general standing in January will be still better. I shall be - examined one fortnight from to-morrow, and I intend to do my best. - My standing will greatly depend upon it. At the examination, each - one has a demonstration to perform, besides some 20 or 30 questions - to answer. If my demonstration is good, and the answers to all my - questions are correct, my stand will remain in mathematics at least - as good as it was in November, which, I presume, is fourth. In - French I think I shall rise considerably, because my mark is as good - as any one's, and I think I have gained the good-will of my teacher. - Very much depends upon this. We can always secure their esteem by - being attentive and respectful, and, last though not least, by - paying considerable attention to our personal appearance. Lieutenant - Church, my professor in mathematics, and Mr. Molinard, my professor - in French, are both very fine men and accomplished teachers. The - latter is a Frenchman. - - I am acquainted with many Westerners, who generally are very fine - fellows. They are generally very generous and open-hearted, and it - is very easy to get acquainted with them. There have been two duels - fought between cadets since I have been here, though no ill - consequences followed. In each case the combatants were Westerners. - If they had been found out, they, together with the seconds, would - have been dismissed. - - Our State does the best of any in the fourth class. There are three - in the first section in mathematics, and two in the first section in - French. Penn. has two in each. Henry J. Biddle, of Penn., will - probably be head in mathematics in January. His name comes before - those who have an equal mark with him; he is a splendid - mathematician, and has graduated at a college, and was undoubtedly - better prepared than any other member of the class. He will also be - head in French. We have a splendid collection of Philosophical, - Mathematical, and Historical works in our library. There is no - difficulty in getting books, and I intend to avail myself of its - many advantages. There is a universal history of modern times, - consisting of 42 volumes. I am now reading Rollin's Ancient History. - Our evenings are very busy. We study from half past five till ten. - -It is noticeable in his letters that he finds the regular course of -studies very easy, owing undoubtedly not less to the remarkable native -powers of his mind than to his habits of study and faculty of intense -application. Yet, as in boyhood, not content with the prescribed -curriculum, and spurred on by his ambition to achieve the headship of -his class, he takes extra French lessons, spends "two hours in studying -other authors, and in learning to demonstrate eloquently and with -perspicuity, to every hour devoted to the text-book," and reads Rollin's -Ancient History. Such indomitable resolution and energy combined with -great ability could not fail. In six months he had gained a high place -in the first section, and had become the competitor with three others -for the leadership. He writes uncle William, who has congratulated him -on his standing, and now thinks it best to caution him against studying -too hard:-- - - WEST POINT, February 1, 1836. - - DEAR UNCLE,--It was very gratifying to learn that my standing was so - satisfactory to my friends. Since it has been attained by no extra - exertion, it is incumbent on me to _deserve_ to sustain it for the - future by strict and unwearied attention to all my academic studies. - - Your caution respecting hard study shall be observed, for the very - good reason that it is impossible to do otherwise. The regulations - in this respect are very good, and are such as to secure to each one - the privilege of studying as much as is necessary, while it - restrains all from over-exertion. We retire at ten and rise at six. - Of the remaining sixteen, four hours are devoted to recreation, - meals, etc., and twelve to study. Of these twelve hours, two and one - half are spent in the section room. The intercourse between the - cadets is so free and uninterrupted that it is impossible to study - except during study hours. Surely twelve hours' study per day ought - to injure no one of a sound constitution. - - Our class will have a society next fall. Every class, except the - fourth, has one or more societies, which meet every Saturday - evening. We have some very fine speakers in the corps, and many take - great pains to improve themselves. - - You wish to know our uniforms, rations, etc. Our uniform is gray. - Our pantaloons are made as usual, except a stripe of black velvet on - each leg. Cousin Charles can describe our coats, which are the same - both winter and summer. In summer we wear white pants made of Russia - drilling. - - Remember me to all inquiring friends, especially to grandmother and - your own family. - - Your nephew, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - N.B. Tell our folks to write soon. - -To his sister Susan:-- - - WEST POINT, February 23, 1836. - - DEAR SISTER,--Be assured that advice from _you_, and advice from - _all those_ whom I _know_ to be my _friends_, will afford me the - greatest pleasure, and will always be received with the most - respectful attention. The disgusting habits of chewing, smoking, - etc., I abominate, and therefore shall never indulge in them. As for - drinks, either distilled or fermented, I do not use them, because in - the first place they cannot be obtained, and, in the second place, I - have no desire for them. The fact of the case is, that in barracks - there are no temptations offered us but what every one who has any - mind could easily resist. In camp it is not the case; then many - temptations are offered us, to which we are in great danger of - yielding, since we have much leisure. When a person has his whole - time employed, there is little danger of falling into bad habits. - Last fall, when I commenced the Algebra, I had very little to do, - and came very near contracting some very bad habits, as sleeping in - the morning, etc., which at first required some little difficulty in - breaking; but now I do not think of such a thing, not even Sunday - mornings, and I often rise at four or five o'clock. This is owing to - having hard lessons to get. You mention that you are studying Latin - and like it very much. I have but one caution to give you on this - subject, which is, get your grammar perfectly. Everything depends - upon this. You can never make a good Latin scholar unless you know - everything about the grammar. Since you are studying French, I - intend next encampment to write you a letter in French, which you - must answer, and we will correct each other. We use Levisac's - Grammar, and at every lesson get about half a page of exercises, and - are obliged to get them so that we can write any sentence our Prof. - gives us upon the blackboard without referring to the books. We are - now writing sentences upon the pronomial verbs. We get for our - translation eight pages in Charles XII. per day. Our teacher, Mr. - Bevard (the author of the French Lessons), is a very good linguist, - and the most thorough teacher I ever was under. He is very - particular about our pronunciation, and corrects us very frequently. - I think by June I shall be able to pronounce French pretty well and - read it fluently, and shall endeavor to rise considerably. - - You must write whenever you can find it convenient, and your letters - shall always be punctually answered. I observe that you pay the - postage. I wish that you would allow me to pay it, as I think I am - better able to do it than you. Remember me to all inquiring friends. - - Your brother, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - Miss S.B. STEVENS. - -His letters show the maturity of the mind and judgment of the youth of -seventeen, and exhibit a slight formality and precision that indicates -that he was taking pains in the composition. His correspondence must -have taken no little time. His great, warm heart went out towards all -his relations, and he was frequently writing to his uncle William, and -his cousins in Andover and Salem, Mass., in Albany, Maine, and in -Nashville, Tenn. He wrote constantly to his father and sisters, keenly -alive to their welfare and happiness. The latter were beginning to -scatter widely from the paternal roof-tree. Hannah, the eldest, was at -Haverhill, earning her livelihood. Susan was attending the female -seminary at the South Parish (Andover); Mary was at Methuen, at Mr. -Stephen Barker's; and only Sarah and Elizabeth remained at home. Deeply -sympathizing with them, he comforts them, urges them to treat their -stepmother with respect, and touchingly alludes to their father's -unfortunate condition, his growing infirmities, and his sincere -affection for and devotion to his children. - -The first academic year rolled rapidly away. One day, as the examination -drew near, Halleck and Biddle were comparing notes as to the prospects. -"That little Stevens," said the former, "is driving ahead like the -devil, and he is sure to be first in mathematics. I don't think he can -beat me in French, at any rate." "And I am sure," rejoined Biddle, "that -he cannot touch me in drawing next year. One thing I have made up my -mind to,--if he gains the head of the class over me, I shall resign." -This dialogue was overheard, and repeated to "little Stevens," who -related it in after years with some amusement. - -He had pursued his object with unflagging zeal, energy, and -determination during the year, but, reflecting how heavily he was -handicapped in the race by men like Biddle, Butler, and Halleck, so much -older and farther advanced in their studies at the beginning, he might -well feel anxious. He entered the examination room, as he describes it, -cool and collected, with nerves high-strung yet under perfect control, -and fully determined to come out ahead. He was not disappointed. He rose -to the first place,--a place, once achieved, which no competitor was to -wrest from him. - - CAMP JONES, July 6, 1836. - - DEAR UNCLE,--I received your letter by Mr. Johnson, and although - short it was very acceptable.... We had a fine time on the Fourth - of July, an oration, dinner, etc. I had a great desire to spend the - Fourth at New York city. I applied and obtained a leave of two days, - commencing on Sunday noon and ending on Tuesday; had a very fine - time,--went to the Navy Yard, Brooklyn, got introduced to about half - a dozen midshipmen, etc. The military were out, as well as several - societies. In the evening I went to the theatre, where Celeste - danced _as usual_. - - Since we have been in camp we have had a very easy time, nothing to - do but go on guard two or three times per week, attend roll calls - and dress parades. Next week we will be drilled three times per day - as well as recite in infantry tactics, and attend the - dancing-school. I have come to the determination to study French - this encampment: shall commence next week. I cannot reasonably - expect to keep my present standing in that branch unless I exert - myself. I can translate quite readily, but I write quite - indifferently, and can speak it but very little, whereas there are - three immediately below me who can read, write, and speak the - language very well. Why the Board placed me above them is more than - I can conceive. Two of them have told me they _would rise me_, and I - have told them they _should not do it_. If they _do_ rise me, I - shall not complain; and if they do not, so much the better. As to - mathematics, I have no cause for fear,--both Biddle and Halleck - admit I ought to stand head, and my professor had no doubts about - who should be placed there. As soon as we reënter barracks, we - commence drawing. Success in this branch depends as much (and - perhaps even more) upon persevering application as on a natural - taste. I intend to do my very best, otherwise I shall fall very much - in general merit, even should I keep my standing in other branches. - Biddle will stand head, or near the head, in D., as he now draws - very well. If he was third in D. and I was twelfth, he would rise me - in general merit. Our merit rolls will be published in about two - weeks. I am entitled to five, and shall send one home. In this roll - the standing of every cadet, the class to which he belongs, and the - number of his demerits are published. Mass. stands better in my - class than any other State. Greene and Grafton, both from Boston, - stand ninth and tenth. But there was one from Salem found deficient - in French, although he passed well in M. I think he is a smart - fellow, and will stand high next year. His name is Humber. He had - been a sailor for six years, and French came very hard to him by - reason of the very limited knowledge he had of language. I suppose - that the farmers must have begun haying in good earnest. I should - much prefer working on a farm for two or three months to the life I - now lead. It is now thirteen months since I have done any work to - which I have hitherto been accustomed, and I shall probably _soon - get my hand out_. Many of the cadets, chiefly those who come from - the slavery States, have a great contempt for our Yankee farmers, - and even pretend to compare them with their slaves. They have the - greatest contempt for all those who gain a subsistence by the sweat - of their brows. For my own part I shall always respect every man who - is honest and industrious, and more particularly those who live in - the manner that has been ordained by God himself; and whenever any - man, in conversation with me or in my hearing, compares that class, - of which I am proud to be one, with slaves, I shall always consider - it as an insult offered to myself, and shall act accordingly. - Remember me to all inquiring friends. Write when convenient. - - Your nephew, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - WM. STEVENS, Esq. - - CAMP JONES, WEST POINT, August 16, 1836. - - DEAR UNCLE,--You probably have seen most of my letters that I have - written home this encampment; you will see that I have taken things - fair and easy, and have had quite a pleasant time. I can always get - a permission to walk into the country whenever I ask for it, so - that, between attending my military duties, dancing, rambling about - in the country, and reading novels, I could not do otherwise than - pass my time pleasantly. I cut rather a sorry figure dancing, as - might be expected, but there is a chance for improvement, which I - intend to make the best of. - - There is a standing society in the corps called the Dialectic - Society. Ten or fifteen persons are selected from each class except - the fourth class, so that it consists of forty or fifty members. The - society is continued by selecting the above number from every new - class after it has been here one year. I intend to get elected into - it, if possible. They have a fine collection of books to the amount - of several hundred volumes. There are also many fine speakers in it, - and many of them take great pains to improve themselves, even to the - neglect of their studies. This is unquestionably bad policy. It is - losing a dollar for the sake of saving a sixpence; but there is no - kind of difficulty in paying proper attention to our studies, and - improving ourselves in writing and speaking: by writing, I of course - mean composing. If you will examine our merit rolls, you will see - that Jennings and Halbert, of the second class, are among the - deficients. These men were decidedly the best writers in the class, - and the former was the orator on the Fourth of July. As it is always - better to _act_ than to _talk_, so they have missed it in neglecting - their studies in order to become good speakers. - - As I stand head in French, you may possibly suppose I can speak the - language. Such is not the case; but one thing _is_ certain, I am - determined to be able to speak it one year from this time. But how I - shall do it is another thing. I can write it some, but it will - require great pains to be able to write it correctly and speak it - fluently. Neither time nor patience shall be wanting on my part in - order to accomplish both the above objects. As soon as we commence - studying, I intend to have a talk with Mr. Bevard, the head teacher - in French, and a most estimable man, about it, and do as he directs - me. - - In return for this I shall expect a good long letter, telling me all - the news and giving me good advice. Remember me to all inquiring - friends, to Aunt Eliza, and cousins Eliza, William, Susan, and - George. - - I remain your nephew, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - WM. STEVENS, Esq. - - WEST POINT, September 1, 1836. - - DEAR FATHER,--In my letters you often have me write about my leave - next year. I look forward to this with a great deal of pleasure. As - you may well suppose, I want to see my friends very much. How long a - leave had I better get? I can have ten weeks if I choose, or a - shorter time. I am now a corporal, and shall probably be made a - sergeant next June. If I get a leave of ten weeks, I cannot keep my - office. But if I retain it, my leave will not exceed four or five - weeks; but to make up for this I could get as long a leave the year - after; whereas, if I resigned my office and took the ten weeks' - leave, I could get no leave the next encampment. The office now is - not worth much, but it is very well to have it when I am in the - first class, for then I shall be made a lieutenant, if my conduct is - good. What had I best do? If I continue to be head in mathematics, - there is a chance of my being made an assistant professor in M. next - year. Two of the cadet professors will then graduate, and their - places will have to be filled. I do not think, however, it is best - to place any dependence upon it. If there was an even chance of my - being made such, I would not hesitate about resigning my office, if - you should think it best to obtain a leave of ten weeks. - - Your son, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - Mr. ISAAC STEVENS. - - - WEST POINT, September 2, 1836. - - DEAR FATHER,--Yesterday we commenced our studies. We entered the - barracks the 30th of August. The ball on the 29th was a most - splendid one, and the hall was very full. We made use of the - mess-hall, which was decorated in fine style. Our band was present, - and their performances served to increase their reputation. The ball - was continued until after three o'clock, but I did not remain after - half past one. It was estimated that nearly six hundred visitors - were present. As this is the only thing of the kind we have during - the year, the corps take unusual pains to have everything done in - the best manner, and great care was taken that the whole should - present quite a military appearance. Many of the lamps were - encircled by brightly burnished bayonets, which served as - reflectors. Directly in front of the hall was a battery of cannon, - in rear of which sentinels were stationed to keep off those who had - no right to be present. I enjoyed myself very much, and took part in - several cotillions. - - We marched into barracks the day after the ball, and were allowed a - day or two to arrange things. My situation is much different now - from what it was one year since. Now I have attained a situation - which then I scarcely hoped for. Now I am surrounded with my - classmates and friends, when one year since I had no friends; for we - were strangers to each other, and consequently displayed that cold - civility, and uttered those unmeaning compliments, which distinguish - the intercourse of strangers. One year since I was unknown to the - officers of the institution; now I trust I have secured the - confidence and esteem of those with whom I have come in contact. - Then I was a _poor plebe_, who had not passed his January - examination; now I no longer bear that title, but possess the - privileges and the name of an _old cadet_. - - The fourth class is a very large one, upwards of a hundred. Next - June I do not believe upwards of sixty will be left, and it is - doubtful whether upwards of forty-five graduate, so many are found - deficient and discharged. My room-mates are the same as last year, - with the exception of Mr. Bacon. I think we shall always room - together, at least I hope so. Both Carpenter and Callender are hard - students and steady fellows. The former is a very smart man. The - latter you will find, by reference to some of my old letters, roomed - with me before January, resigned, and was reappointed this year. I - do not expect to stand first next January, but think my standing - will not be below second. Drawing will come hard to me, and I shall - stand quite low the first three or four months. No efforts of my own - shall be wanting to secure a good standing in this branch. We spend - six hours per week in the drawing academy, but I intend to practice - twelve hours per week in my own room. - - Your son, - ISAAC A. STEVENS. - - Mr. ISAAC STEVENS. - -From early boyhood General Stevens made a strong impression upon every -one he met. Undersized, and at first glance insignificant in appearance, -his intense individuality and intellect were always deeply felt. At once -he commanded the respect of the professors at the academy; and their -recollections of him, and of his characteristics, were still vivid after -the lapse of forty years, and the continual passing of an army of youth -before their eyes. Said Professor W.H.C. Bartlett, July 16, 1877, who -was professor of natural and experimental philosophy:-- - - "General Stevens was a small, undersized, young man when he entered - West Point, very modest in demeanor. He had the habit of speaking - carefully and distinctly, and of clearly and precisely expressing - the exact idea he wished to convey. His mind was comprehensive, - given to generalizations; he had the faculty of generalizing, of - always thinking out first principles. In solving a mathematical - problem, he would apply the principles which governed the class of - problems, and not simply seek a solution of the single one before - him. He was very early regarded by the faculty as a man of great - talent and promise, sure to take a high stand in his class and in - the world. He was popular with his class, but his popularity arose - more from their opinion of his abilities than from social qualities. - The professors soon felt that whatever he said was worthy of - attention. I recollect that he took an active part in the Dialectic - Society, and recollect his moving the books and busying himself in - the room. Biddle was his competitor for the headship of the class, - and after he left there was practically no one to contest the honors - with him. - - "Halleck's was an entirely different mind from Stevens's,--less - comprehensive, less devoted to original research, to principles. - Halleck was strong in history, in precedents. - - "I recollect Stevens's answer when a witness before a court of - inquiry,--how he knew that a party had done so and so,--if he had - said so. 'No,' replied he, 'he did not say so, but what he said and - his manner combined convinced me of the fact; and the manner is a - great part of any conversation.' When he graduated, he stood not - only at the head of his class, but among the highest that ever - graduated from the academy." - -Professor A.E. Church (of mathematics) writes July 27, 1877:-- - - "My recollection of your father as a cadet at West Point is very - vivid. I remember him as an earnest, industrious student, strictly - attentive to every duty. He possessed mathematical talents of the - highest order, standing in this branch, as in every other, at the - head of his class, notwithstanding rival classmates of great - abilities. A distinguishing trait which he possessed in a remarkable - degree, and, from what I know of his after life, continued ever - prominent, was an unhesitating readiness to apply and carry on - strictly and systematically every principle he had learned, never - failing to come to the right result. - - "While others were pondering over the intricacies of a mathematical - proposition, often in vain seeking some shorter way or more curious - result, he seemed at once to grasp the most practicable rule, and - straight onward to pursue it to an end which admitted of no doubt. - - "Though admirably adapted for a military commander and great - engineer, had he selected the profession of the law he would have - been prominent among the most distinguished lawyers of the age. His - early death was a serious loss to the army and country, and with his - many friends was sincerely mourned by myself." - -The grasp and thoroughness of his mind, his power of generalization, of -seeking and mastering first principles, which Mr. Hazen remarked in the -boy, impressed the West Point professors, too, as the prominent mental -characteristic of the youth. - -Says General Zealous B. Tower:-- - - "I roomed with Cadet Stevens for four months in one of the small - rooms in the south barracks. Stephen D. Carpenter was the other - occupant of that limited living and bed room. Each cadet was - provided with a small mattress, to be spread upon the floor when - needed, and when unoccupied to be rolled up in its canvas, well - strapped, and put into a corner of the room. Later, iron bedsteads - were introduced, but the mattresses were never unrolled and spread - until the hour for retiring. A cadet inspector visited the rooms - half an hour after reveille; the Officer of the day also inspected - them, and the company officers also went the rounds. Tattoo at 9.30 - P.M. was the signal for retiring, and taps at ten P.M. for putting - out all lights, when one of the officers again inspected each - 'stoup,' or floor, of the barracks. - - "Stevens's duties as assistant professor of mathematics occupied an - hour and a half each day, taking that portion of time from his study - hours; but it did not interfere with his studies, for he possessed - quick intelligence, and great concentration of his mental powers. - This faculty was very pronounced, and would have given him - distinction in any profession that he might have undertaken, and the - more so that it was allied to industrious habits and an enthusiastic - nature. He never plodded over his lessons, but often finished them - in half the time allotted to their acquisition. Stevens was a - pleasant room-mate, being very genial, kind, and considerate to - others. He never failed in his friendships, or in anything that - appeared a duty to his fellows. He was popular among those of his - associates who valued sterling, manly qualities, and among the most - prominent members of his corps. He spoke rapidly when a matter of - interest engaged his attention, for he thought rapidly. Though, - rather short in stature, his large head and very expressive, - intelligent eyes made him noticeable and attractive in conversation, - engaging the marked attention of his auditors. His enthusiasm and - strong convictions gave an energy to his manner of discussing - favorite topics that lent the charm of eloquence to his speech." - - WEST POINT, March 11, 1836. - - DEAR FATHER,--Last week we commenced Calculus. This is considered - the most difficult branch of mathematics. Our text-book is a - compilation from the most distinguished French mathematicians by - Professor Davies. We have about ten pages per lesson, and will be - about five weeks going through it. We next study surveying, which - ends our course in mathematics. - - Since the examination I have attended the drawing academy every day, - the regular attendance being every other day. Were I two files - higher in this branch, it would put me head in general merit. I am - now drawing our Saviour, represented as a child. I have been at work - on it for about four weeks. It will probably take me eight weeks - more to finish it. It is very slow work, I assure you, but as our - standing depends entirely upon the excellence and not upon the - number of pieces, I consider the time is not lost, provided what I - do is done well. - - It seems there is a very great excitement in Congress respecting the - slavery question. It must afford pleasure to every friend of free - discussion to learn that the South did not succeed in the - resolutions censuring Mr. Adams. At the same time, I think he is - unnecessarily agitating this dangerous question, and that his zeal - will tend to awaken only feelings and desires which should never be - cherished. Is not the dissolution of the Union a subject of fearful - foreboding? Ought then the sages of our land like Mr. Adams at this - time to agitate a question which in the opinion of the South - infringes upon their rights, and which, inflexible as we know them - to be in their maintenance, will cause them to look upon a secession - from the Union as the only means of preserving them? The South are - sensible of the evils of slavery. They deplore the existence of this - curse, entailed upon them against their consent by the arbitrary - decrees of England, and I believe that (if left to themselves) they - will adopt some measures to rid themselves of it. - - Your son, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - -[Illustration: INFANT JESUS - _Crayon drawing at West Point_] - - WEST POINT, March 5, 1836. - DEAR SISTER,--I received your letter this morning informing me of - aunt Eliza's death. She was certainly the finest woman I ever knew, - and the remembrance of her engaging qualities will long be - cherished. Uncle William is very much to be pitied. - - Have you any school in view now for next summer? You also appear to - be very much interested in Latin. I detested Latin when I first - commenced to study it, but I soon brought myself to like it. So it - is with drawing. I take more pleasure in drawing than in anything - else. I like it full as well as reading novels. In my last you will - recollect that I wrote of the piece I was then drawing. I have now - got it most half done. I was all last week (two hours per day) - drawing one eye, a part of another one, and one curl of hair. You - can see by this that I draw very slowly, much slower than any one in - my class. The time spent in the drawing academy seems shorter than - any other part of the day, and I have not yet felt any impatience at - my slowness in drawing since I have commenced my last piece, a sure - sign that I like it very much. - - Your brother, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - Miss SUSAN B. STEVENS. - - DEAR SISTER ELIZABETH,--You spoke of Mr. Maynard thinking I ought to - be content with my present standing, and ought not to expect to - stand higher. Be that as it may, one thing _is_ certain, that I will - _never_ cease to try for number one till I have got it again, and - were I convinced that it was almost an impossibility, I would still - _try_. I like the reply of General Miller to his superior officer in - the last war, when, being directed to attack and carry a battery of - cannon on an almost inaccessible eminence, the silencing of which - was indispensable, made this answer only, 'I will try,' and with the - most determined courage carried it in an almost incredibly short - space of time. I don't like _backing out_; it is contemptible. I - shall, however, be contented with whatever standing is given me, and - since I have been here I have always endeavored to prepare myself - for any contingency. This is absolutely necessary. It is the only - way to guard against envy, jealousy, and all those mean and - degrading passions to which the human heart is prone. Harry Biddle - and myself are now the only members of our class who are contending - for head, yet I don't believe there are two men in the class on - better terms. He is one of the finest young men I ever knew; and - although he was very much disappointed last June, he never uttered a - word showing he harbored the least ill-will against me. When the - result of the June examination was known, he came and congratulated - me, but told me he meant to rise me. In January it appeared he had - redeemed his word, and so I went and congratulated him, and balanced - the account. This is the only way to get along, for if we allow - those passions I have mentioned to obtain the least ascendency over - us, it will render us disagreeable and unhappy. There are eleven of - us in four rooms, which are contiguous to each other, who are all - good friends, and we enjoy ourselves as much as any other eleven men - in the corps. - -At the end of the second academic year he again stood head of his class, -and had the pleasure of announcing his success to his father. He stood -seventeen on the conduct roll, having eleven demerits. - - WEST POINT, June 18, 1836. - - DEAR FATHER,--I received a letter from Oliver a few days since. He - says he is "going a-gunning" on his birthday, and wishes me to be at - home to keep him company. I wish this could be the case, but under - present circumstances I shall not come home until the last of July, - and my leave will last but four weeks only. I did not know this till - about a week ago, and I have deferred writing to be able to give you - my standing. The examination was closed yesterday. My standing is - first in mathematics, first in French, and fourth in drawing, which - puts me head in general merit. Mr. Biddle is second in M., third in - F., and first in D. I presume you will be satisfied with this. You - recollect that Mr. Biddle rose me in French last January, and I - suppose that rising him again this June will make it all right - again. I had very good luck indeed, and my recitation in mathematics - was much better than at any previous examination. We march into camp - on Tuesday. It is to be called Camp Poinsett, as a compliment to the - Secretary of War. - -In July he returned home, after an absence of two years, to spend the -brief leave of a month. He had foregone one the previous year, partly on -the score of economy, at his father's suggestion, and it was with a -heart full of joy and glad anticipations that he hastened to visit the -loved ones at home, and the dear and familiar scenes of his childhood. - -Isaac must have keenly enjoyed this visit. His sisters were proud of -him, and overjoyed at his return. He had surpassed the most sanguine -hopes of his friends, and on every hand met with a warm welcome. His -success at the academy, his cadet uniform, and his erect, soldierly -bearing invested him in the eyes of the community with the new-found -respect and importance accorded to rising and promising young manhood. -His cousin Henry, writing after his return to the Point, says: "If you -look as dignified as you did when you were here, I do not wonder that -you are beyond suspicion. I should like very much to see one hundred -cadets playing at football. Do you run as erect as you walk?" West Point -drill and discipline, however, had not abated his adventurous spirit, or -love of the sports natural to his age. Sailing on the Great Pond with a -number of companions, and the wind having died out, for pastime he -climbed to the top of the mast, which suddenly broke and let him fall -headlong into the lake. On another occasion he was poling a boat with -his little brother up the Cochichewick towards the "Hatch," as the point -where the stream flowed out of the Great Pond was called, when the oar -stuck fast in the tenacious mud of the bottom, and, grasping it too -firmly, Isaac lost his foothold, and was dragged over the stern into the -mingled mud and water, to the sad defilement of his speckless white -cadet trousers. Exasperated at this ridiculous accident, he swore -lustily, calling upon Oliver in no gentle tones to bring back the boat. - - - - - CHAPTER IV - - WEST POINT.--LAST TWO YEARS - - -Returning to the Point after this brief respite, the young cadet resumed -his studies with his accustomed vigor. He was appointed assistant -professor of mathematics, a position of additional labor as well as -honor, which he retained to the end of his course. Moreover, he took an -active part in the Dialectic Society, which as a "plebe" he looked -forward to joining. In a letter to Mr. Hazen he recounts his early -efforts in debate:-- - - "You are probably aware that we have a debating society here, of - which I have the honor to be a member. Last evening (we hold our - meetings on Saturday evenings) we had an animated debate on the - expediency of studying the _dead languages_. It was the only - tolerable one we have had this fall. Some pretty good speeches were - made. One was particularly fine. Mr. Jennings, the person to whom I - allude, in my opinion was made for an orator. He is undoubtedly a - man of a large mind, and expresses himself admirably. His delivery - is very good, and his diction is choice and effective. Declamation - is one of the regular exercises; and as my turn came round, I had - the pleasure of unburdening myself of a short piece, and of being - most woefully used up by the critical, who are regularly appointed - for such performance. This is not very encouraging, to be sure. I - must, however, acquit myself better next time. - - "You are probably aware of the great defects in our course of study. - It is not calculated generally to strengthen and improve the mind as - much as a four years' course of study should. Some of the faculties - are developed in a high degree, whilst others are almost entirely - neglected; its effect is--if the expression can be used--to cast the - mind in a rough, strong mould, without embellishing or polishing it. - Its effect is also (perhaps no more than any other regular course - of study) to confine our attention to particular pursuits, and make - us neglect all that general information which is essential to a man - of liberal education, and in fact absolutely indispensable for any - one who engages in the actual pursuits of life. Don't you believe it - is of greater advantage to a person to have a good idea of political - economy, or a knowledge of the elementary principles of composition, - than to be able to solve some abstruse problem in mathematics? - - "I almost wish I could content myself with standing about fifth in - my class. I could then spend three or four hours a day in reading - and getting valuable information, and could improve myself in - composition. I might also cultivate a taste for the higher branches - of literature, my taste for all which at present, except novels, is - about at the zero point. As it is, I am obliged to work hard to get - an hour a day to devote to reading; and as I consider history and - solid works of that nature most valuable, I have been able to read - but one novel within the last three months. I have been reading some - of the speeches in 'British Eloquence' of late; also in the - 'Eloquence of the United States.' Do you think the characters of - Pitt, Fox, and Burke, as described by the author in the former work, - are correct? My former ideas of Chatham were somewhat different. The - author makes him out a more selfish man than I supposed him to be. A - few days since I picked up a volume of Phillips's Speeches, and read - most of them. Is not his speech in the case of Blake v. Wilkins - admirable? What do you think of them generally? It seems to me there - is more of the pomp of words than real, effective oratory in them. - He has too much pathos in some of his speeches. A little of it, and - sometimes much of it, produces a very good effect; but where it is - nothing but a pathetic appeal to the feelings, the effect is - destroyed, at least with people of sense." - -This letter shows that the youth was beginning to think for himself, and -to weigh things according to his own ideas. The arduous course of study -he was pursuing did not wholly engross his attention. He soon became the -leading member of the Dialectic, active in getting up lectures and -other literary exercises. Nor was he simply a bookworm. "The eleven of -us, in contiguous rooms, who are all good friends, and enjoy ourselves -as much as any other eleven men in the class," derived some of their -enjoyment from breaking the rigid rules of the institution, and in -hairbreadth escapes from detection. They used to run over to Benny's -without leave. They would bring pies and other edibles into barracks -buttoned up under their coats, and, after the post was wrapped in -slumber, would indulge in these forbidden sweets. His companions -ofttimes complained that Stevens would learn his lessons in a minute, -and then come about, making a racket, and disturbing them in their -studies. He used to take long walks and excursions about the neighboring -country. - -Naturally active and fearless, he became a fine horseman, and always -appeared to best advantage when mounted, where his erect figure and -soldierly bearing gave him the effect of higher stature than when on -foot. - -In winter the cadets were in the habit of skating on the river. Isaac, -light, active, and fearless, and exceedingly adventurous, delighted to -skim full speed over the thinnest ice he could find, which bent and -crackled under his skates. His companions kept remonstrating with and -forewarning him of a catastrophe, which in his case never occurred. One -extremely cold day, however, one of his associates broke through the ice -and fell into the river. They rescued him with some difficulty, and bore -him dripping wet to the barracks in all haste, but the unlucky youth was -nearly frozen when they carried him into his room. His mates at once set -to work making a hot fire, and bringing blankets, etc. But Isaac now -took the lead, as the commanding spirit always does in a real emergency. -He caused them to put out the fire, throw open all the windows, and to -vigorously rub the insensible youth with snow brought from the outside -until his circulation was restored, and the frost taken out of his -benumbed extremities, when he suffered them to rebuild the fire and -renew the warm comforts, both solid and liquid. - -His uncle Moses, a distinguished teacher, settled in Nashville, Tenn., -visited West Point this fall; and his father writes, "Your uncle Moses -speaks of your acquirements in rather extravagant terms." - -During the winter his father's health was poor, and he suffered much -from his injured leg. Oliver alone remained at home. Hannah was in -Haverhill, attending school, and supporting herself by her needle; Sarah -was in Lowell, working in a factory; Elizabeth was at Belfast, Maine, -visiting an aunt, and attending school; Mary was at Methuen; and Susan -was attending school at the South Parish. The latter, a girl of warm -heart and lively sensibilities, had not been satisfied with the sober -Unitarianism of her family, and had become attached to the "Orthodox," -or ancient Puritan faith, a sincere and somewhat enthusiastic convert. -The letters of these motherless girls, thus scattered about, reveal a -touching picture of their earnest desire and efforts for study and -self-improvement, their tender affection for their father, and their -endeavor to treat their stepmother with respect and affection. It was to -their brother Isaac that they resorted for comfort and guidance. They -confided to his warm and sympathetic heart all their troubles, -aspirations, and plans, and constantly sought his advice. The noble old -man at the farm, too, had come to rely upon the manly character and -sound judgment of the youth of nineteen at West Point. He writes of the -difficulty of making both ends meet, of his earnest desire to give more -schooling to his three younger daughters, and of preserving intact for -his children the little property he had accumulated so laboriously. He -asks Isaac to write and advise Susan, who he thinks lacks stability, -and Hannah. He entreats his son to come home every summer vacation. - - WEST POINT, December 17, 1836. - - DEAR FATHER,--It was with much concern I heard of your lameness, and - I am very much afraid it will prove more serious than you seem to be - aware of. You ought not to think yourself obliged to work, when it - is of manifest injury to you. You are now getting to be along in - years, and you have done hard work enough. You ought now to think of - making yourself comfortable. I _do_ hope you will be careful about - exposing yourself, and will endeavor to enjoy the little property - which you have accumulated with so much toil. Your children, you may - be assured, had much rather that it should all be consumed in making - your declining years pleasant and happy, than receive a single cent - of it themselves. I think you will do wrong to feel the least - anxiety about leaving property to your children. You have evinced - the greatest affection for us, and the utmost disinterestedness in - consulting the welfare of your children, and it is our duty to make - every return in our power. Believe me, we will endeavor to exert our - utmost in order to secure the happiness of the remaining period of - your life, and we ask of you, as a favor, no longer to undergo the - toil and exposure to which you have hitherto been accustomed. - - I wish I could have been at home Thanksgiving time. Three successive - Thanksgivings have seen my absence from home, and it is very - probable that three more will pass away without allowing me the - opportunity of spending them at home. As it is, I hope I shall be - enabled to pass two or three weeks at home next summer, but it is - very uncertain. The superintendent has come to the conclusion no - longer to permit the members of the first class to be absent on - leave during the encampment, and it will be very difficult to obtain - a leave unless the application is _backed_ by very urgent reasons. - -At last Susan decided to go to Missouri, encouraged by the favorable -reports of relatives who had moved thither, and hoping to find a more -promising field as a teacher. In May, 1838, her father accompanied her -to Port Labadie, situated on the Missouri River, some miles above St. -Louis. Here she found kind friends, and met with tolerable success in -her chosen vocation. - -At the June examination of 1838 Isaac again stood at the head of his -class. On the conduct roll he was number twenty-three, with twenty -demerits. He spent part of the summer leave at home. Returning to the -Point, he made a pedestrian trip to Philadelphia with a classmate, in -the course of which they were thoroughly drenched in a rainstorm. - -The following letter exhibits his patriotic indignation at the British -aggressions on the Maine frontier, a precursor of the spirit with which -he resisted and defeated similar aggressions on the extreme northwest in -after years:-- - - WEST POINT, August 21, 1838. - - DEAR FATHER,--You must have seen from the papers that the executive - of the State of Maine is making preparations to carry into effect - the resolutions of its legislature, and that the commissioners will - be supported in the running of the boundary line by the whole - military force of the State. Kent has pursued a course alike - honorable to himself and the State which he represents. If the - national government shows itself so regardless of the honor and - interests of a State as has been evinced by the cold indifference - with which negotiations for the last fifty years have been carried - on, it becomes the solemn duty of the sovereignty thus trampled upon - to rise and maintain its own rights. This fawning subserviency to - expediency in a matter of principle I despise. So does every - honorable man; better die in a just cause than live by an - abandonment of it. I have sufficient confidence in the virtue and - patriotism of the people of Maine to believe that they will - triumphantly sustain their executive in his energetic and honorable - measures. Should there be actual resistance and the difficulty - resolve itself into an open conflict, the government _dare_ not - withhold its prompt assistance. The whole Senate, without a single - dissentient voice, have borne witness to the fallacy and gross - injustice of the claim made by the British crown upon the lands in - question. Was this meant to vanish into thin air? The 4th regiment - of artillery are now in New York city. Why not send them to the - east? They are certainly wanted on the boundary. - -He had frequently remonstrated with his father for treating Oliver with -too exacting strictness, and he now urged him to send the boy to college -as soon as he became old enough. In reply the father declares:-- - - "As to Oliver's going to college, it is out of the question. A great - many boys are ruined by going to college that would have made useful - men if they had been put to some trade, or compelled to be - industrious. By the most rigid economy I can adopt, the income of - the farm will not pay my expenses. I am willing to rise early, work - late, live on simple fare, but dunning letters I detest; rather live - on two meals a day. I would advise every young man, who means to be - punctual, and honest, to keep out of debt." - -Oliver, however, in due time entered Bowdoin College, Maine, with the -consent and aid of his father; graduated well, and became a successful -lawyer in Boston, where he has held the position of district attorney -for nearly thirty years. - -He urges Oliver to cultivate a taste for solid reading, and assures him -that a taste for any subject can be acquired when the determination is -fixed upon it. - - "Let me advise you to get Plutarch's Lives, and read them. Plutarch, - you know, is a celebrated Roman author. His Lives of the - distinguished men of Greece and Rome has justly immortalized his - name, and it will live as long as the men whose actions he has - related are admired. The style is simple and unaffected. He has - seized upon the principal events in the life of each; relates to us - many, anecdotes of their efforts, of their disappointments and - failures; then he describes in bold and feeling language that - untiring industry, that patient and ceaseless thought, which - overcame every difficulty. Read the lives of Cicero and - Demosthenes, Nicias and Phocion. When you next write, tell me what - you think of them. Another work I want you to read; it is Sparks's - 'American Biography.' We should certainly be intimately acquainted - with the deeds and characters of our own great men. Have you ever - read any volumes of the 'Spectator'? There are, I think, ten - volumes of them, consisting of essays of four or five pages each - upon all subjects. The style is flowing and graceful, exceedingly - interesting; a vein of wit and sprightliness pervades them all. - - "For myself, things have gone smoothly on since I was at home. My - daily duties are all sources of pleasure. This renders me satisfied - with myself and with all around me. I am never afflicted with low - spirits, or with feelings of discontent,--all this for the simple - reason that all my time is interestingly employed. - - "Have you finished harvesting? Did you gather many walnuts? We have - a large number of chestnut-trees at West Point. I have gathered - quite an abundance of them." - - TO HIS FATHER. - - November 17. - - DEAR FATHER,--I have just come from the meeting of our society. Our - proceedings are quite good; and there is an evident improvement - every evening. It is indeed much better to employ Saturday evening - in listening to, and participating in, a debate on some interesting - subject than staying in one's room reading novels, or perhaps doing - nothing. We had quite an animated discussion the other evening on - the justice of lynch law. We got very warm; indeed, the debate came - very near merging into the discussion of abolition. This, you are - aware, is a very tender subject, and, for our society, a very - improper one. For my own part I got very much excited, and my free - avowal of abolition principles did not tend to allay the feeling - which existed among the members. - - You can well suppose that I am looking forward to graduating with - much interest. My entering this institution I consider my first - important step in life. I have succeeded better than I have ever had - any right to anticipate. I have endeavored to make it my rule never - to relinquish any undertaking, but always to _try_ till success - crowned my efforts. I have thus got along pretty well. I have not - the slightest doubt that I shall succeed well enough as long as my - efforts are carried on in a proper spirit, which is never to rely - too confidently on success, and to bear every disappointment with a - good grace. - - I feel much anxiety to see Oliver improve. These long winter - evenings should not be trifled away. Oliver might study, read to the - family, or otherwise improve his time, till half past nine o'clock. - If he should be disposed to read any longer, let him have a good - warm fire, and his reading will not be thrown away. You are, I know, - a great admirer of Franklin. He used to study until twelve at night - when obliged to work hard all day. How could Oliver and the girls, - if any are at home, pass the time better than reading or studying - till perhaps ten in the evening? - - TO HANNAH. - - January 27, 1839. - - DEAR SISTER,--It may be said that Scott and Addison are elegant - writers. Johnson, that intellectual giant, said that whoever wished - to become a perfect writer must give up his days and nights to - Addison. The style of Addison is peculiarly easy and harmonious, the - very music of composition; and although not so deep and original a - thinker as many whose styles are less attractive, his works will - always be admired for their sound views on moral and religious - subjects. Scott, you know, has been called the _magician_, and - excelled all his contemporaries in the ease, rapidity, and finish of - his performances. The last volume of his "Waverley" was written in - one week, and his novels were ushered into the reading community - with so rapid a succession as astonished every one. Some think that - Scott excelled as a poet, and, wonderful as he was as a writer of - romance, he was still more successful in verse. Some of his poetry - and a few of his novels are well worth reading. His "Lady of the - Lake" and "Ivanhoe" are much admired. The "Tales of my Landlord" and - "Guy Mannering" also are very fine. There is a little volume of - poetry, called "The Book of Pleasures," which I intend to read, the - first opportunity. It contains The Pleasures of Memory, of Hope, and - of the Imagination, all three beautiful poems. You had better read - them, if they are to be obtained. - - Our examinations are finished, and we are again under full sail for - the next, and, for myself, last examination. The result of the - present is, head in three branches and second in the fourth. The - last five months I spend at West Point should be employed to better - advantage than any other five months before. I have marked out for - myself a pretty severe course of study, by which I shall endeavor to - abide. When I graduate, it will be a satisfaction to look back upon - my four years' course, and feel a consciousness that I have improved - my opportunities. After graduating, where I shall be stationed is - uncertain. But I shall endeavor to get ordered to Boston under - Colonel Thayer. There are extensive fortifications now erecting in - Boston harbor on George's Island. It would be a capital chance to be - employed upon them, particularly when the superintendent of the - works is so distinguished a man as Colonel Thayer. There are - reasons, which you can well imagine, why I wish to be near home. - -He must have been an omnivorous and rapid reader to have mastered -Franklin, Plutarch, Addison, Scott, Rollin's Ancient History, besides -poetry, speeches, and novels; one wonders where he could have found the -time, but he was ever working at high pressure. In addition to the hard -work necessary to retain the headship of the class, and to discharge the -duties of assistant professor, he took the most active and leading part -in the Dialectic, and delivered the valedictory address at the -graduation of the class. He also founded "The Talisman," a journal for -the practice and improvement of the cadets in composition. In the -introductory address, which he wrote as editor, he presents his views of -the need for, and objects of, the paper in glowing language, -concluding:-- - - "We have thus announced our intention of establishing a paper. Its - character will be readily understood from the preceding exposition - of our views. We shall hoist the white flag, emblematic of our - motives and intentions. On it shall be inscribed in golden letters - _The Talisman_. This flag will we defend with our life's blood; and - when expiring nature is about to give up her last hold upon us, we - will wave it aloft in triumph and die beneath its shadow." - -In a letter to his uncle William he gives an amusing account of -anonymously criticising his own effusions:-- - - "Several of us have amused ourselves in writing a paper, which we - have called 'The Talisman,' and having it read at the meetings of - the Dialectic. Our motto is, The Human Intellect the Universal - Talisman. The best of the joke is, no one can divine who are - concerned in it. Indeed, once I wrote a most famous blowing up of - one of my own performances, and was extremely amused to have several - of my friends console me; in fact, one told me he would not give a - fig for these criticisms, to which I assented, asking him if he had - any idea who were the editors of the paper, to which he replied in - the negative. When we graduate next June, we wish to have an address - delivered before the society by some able man. Do you think we could - get Governor Everett?" - -As already stated, Cadet Stevens was put forward by his classmates to -deliver this address himself. - -He contributed to "The Talisman" a series of articles, written in a -simple, direct, and forcible style, and marked by an earnest tone and -elevated sentiments, among which were "Agency of Steam in Mechanical -Operations;" "In Jury Trials, ought the Twelve Jurors to be required to -be Unanimous?" "Has Man a Conscience?" "The Importance of a Good Style -of Writing to an Officer of the Army;" "History;" "The Proper Study of -Mankind is Man." - -His most intimate friends at the Point were Henry L. Smith, Jeremy F. -Gilmer, Zealous B. Tower, Henry W. Halleck, Stephen D. Carpenter, Bryant -P. Tilden, William B. Greene, Franklin D. Callender, John D. Bacon, Paul -O. Hebert. Among these high-spirited and intellectual young men he was -an acknowledged leader; and even after leaving the academy, they were -continually calling on him for advice in their own affairs, and for aid -in efforts to benefit the service, to secure increased rank and pay, -etc. - -Thus the last term sped rapidly away. At the examination he was first, -as usual. He stood thirty on the conduct roll, having sixteen demerits. -It will be observed that in "conduct" during the course he stood but -little above the average. Evidently, with his spirited and vigorous -nature, he did not mind infringing the rules at times. When the Academic -Board reviewed the standing of the members of the class to award to each -his proper grade, it was found that Cadet Stevens stood at the head, not -only generally, but in every one of the studies. Moreover, his standing, -as compared with all who had ever graduated from the institution, was -among the first. This remarkable achievement, together with his strong -personality, deeply impressed the officers of the academy. They were -proud of their pupil, they felt that he reflected honor upon the -institution, and they vied with each other in encomiums and attentions -which they deemed his due. - -He invited his father and stepmother to attend the graduation exercises, -and they came. When they arrived they were astonished to see the honors -heaped upon their son, and the high estimation in which he was held. -They, too, were overwhelmed with attentions on his account. Prominent -seats were found for them, and the professors came up to pay their -respects to the parents of the first graduate, and to congratulate them -upon his remarkable talents and promise. - - - - - CHAPTER V - - NEWPORT - - -Crowned with these well-earned honors, and promoted to be second -lieutenant of engineers, July 1, 1839, he accompanied his parents home, -expecting to enjoy a long and delightful vacation; but his anticipations -were speedily cut short by orders to proceed to Newport, R.I., to take -part in the building of Fort Adams, so that he was permitted to spend -only the Fourth of July in Andover. - -Phrenology was in vogue then, and the young man, on his way through -Boston, had his head examined by a professor of the new science, who, -much to his amusement, pronounced him a poet. He reached his station -early in July, and took quarters with Miss Castoff, who kept a -boarding-house on the corner of Spring and Ann streets. Lieutenant James -L. Mason, also of the engineer corps, boarded at the same place. The two -young men became warm friends and companions. Daily they rode over to -the fort together in the morning, and returned in the afternoon. -Lieutenant P.G. T. Beauregard, afterwards the well-known Confederate -general, was also on duty there as an engineer officer, and remained -several months after Stevens's arrival. Fort Adams was garrisoned by a -detachment of the 2d artillery, officered by Lieutenants Lewis G. -Arnold, Arthur B. Lansing, and Henry J. Hunt. - -Fort Adams, commenced twenty years previously, and now nearly completed -under the able superintendence of General Joseph G. Totten, was the -largest defensive work in the country, Fortress Monroe only excepted, -and, as General Cullum declares in his biographical sketch of General -Totten, "the first in its combination of the principles and details of -the art of fortification." It must have afforded a most gratifying field -for the energies of the ardent and accomplished young officer, fresh -from the military academy, and eager to test his acquirements and -abilities in real work. The redoubt, the inner and separate stronghold -in rear of the main work, was mostly built under his superintendence, -1839-42. Entering upon this duty with his accustomed zeal, his sound -judgment in laying out the work for the workmen, and energy and -diligence in pushing it, soon attracted attention. He took control with -the self-reliance and habit of command of a natural leader. He was -strict and exacting with the employees, but at the same time just and -considerate, and took a real interest in them. He soon won their respect -and goodwill. Even the man who groomed his horse, John A.C. Stacy, long -years afterwards, when he had himself become a wealthy contractor, spoke -of Lieutenant Stevens with the greatest admiration. His unconscious -success in this direction nearly led to a breach with Mason. The latter -became cold and distant in manner, and openly avoided him. Stevens -demanded an explanation, whereupon Mason burst forth indignantly with -the charge, "You are destroying all my influence with the men on the -work. When you appear, they hang upon every word you utter, and cannot -do enough for you, while they scarcely notice me, although I am the -senior, and have been longer on the work." But Mason was soon satisfied -by his friend's remonstrances, and his own good sense, that Stevens was -not to blame for that result. Mason was a man of remarkable talents, -brilliant in conversation, and fascinating in social intercourse. - -Newport at this time contained many old families, among which the -traditions of colonial grandeur, when the port was the largest and most -flourishing city in the colonies, mingled with the fresher recollections -of the Revolution, the British occupation, the battle of Rhode Island, -the romantic capture of General Prescott, the English commander, the -brilliant though brief sojourn of the French allies under Rochambeau, -and the visit of Washington. The town was celebrated for beautiful and -charming girls. It was the resort in summer of the cultivated, wealthy, -and fashionable from other parts of the country, especially from the -South. The Hazards, Lymans, Randolphs, Vernons, Lawtons, Hunters, Kings, -Turners, Gardiners, Fowlers, Gibbs, Tottens, Perrys, and others, all -more or less related, afforded a cultivated and high-toned, yet simple -and cordial society, free from the ostentation of wealth and the absurd -pride of caste. The army and naval officers stationed there, and the -families of Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, the hero of Lake Erie, of -General Totten, and of others who had served their country, added a -patriotic and military element. Into this charming society the young -officer entered with keen enjoyment, and his modest demeanor and -sensible conversation, not less than his reputation for ability and -scholarship, soon made him welcome. - -One of these Newport belles thus described him:-- - - "The first time I saw Mr. Stevens was in church. He sat in the pew - behind ours. He was very young, of small, alight figure, had a very - large head, with fine carriage,--a noble head, thick, bushy, black - hair, and dark complexion. He was considered very homely, but he had - a large, dark hazel eye, which looked one through and through, and - compelled one's attention." - -Notwithstanding that "he was considered very homely," young Stevens took -an active part in the social life and festivities of the town, calling -upon the old families, escorting with other young men bevies of young -ladies on delightful long walks to the beach, along the cliffs, the Blue -Rocks, Tammany Hill, and other resorts, and attending the numerous -parties. - -It was at one of these rather informal, but enjoyable gatherings that he -first met the young girl who was soon to become his wife. Mason had -warned him to "beware of Margaret Hazard," as the two young men were -setting out to attend a tea party at the Vernons' hospitable mansion, -two miles out of town. The young lady was a daughter of Benjamin Hazard, -for years recognized as the ablest lawyer and statesman in the State, -who had represented the town in the state legislature for thirty-one -years without a break, having been elected sixty-two times in -succession. Although very young, she possessed many attractions of -person and character, had many admirers, and was one of the acknowledged -belles. Notwithstanding the friendly or jocose warning, Mr. Stevens was -duly presented to Miss Hazard, and had the pleasure of escorting her -home, and improved the opportunity by inviting her to ride on horseback -the following afternoon. Miss Margaret lacked a suitable habit, it -seems; but an old cloak skillfully adapted served for the long sweeping -skirt then in vogue, a cousin furnished his new beaver for a riding-hat, -and another admirer contributed a handsome silver-mounted riding-whip, -so that when the cavalier presented himself on his gray charger with a -groom leading the "Indian Queen," the young lady was ready. The "Indian -Queen" was the name of a noted saddle-horse from the stable of Nicholas -Hassard, who for many years kept the livery stable on Spring, or Back -Street, corner of Touro. When asked if the "Indian Queen" was a safe -horse for the young lady, Mr. Hassard replied, "Miss Margaret Hazard can -ride any horse in my stable." - -This ride led to others, and it was not long before the two rode over -the beaches together nearly every pleasant afternoon. Mr. Stevens would -come with the horses about five o'clock, and the usual ride was over the -three beaches and around by the green End road; and a more romantic, -beautiful, and pleasant course it would be hard to find. - -A fearless horseman, he was fond of horses and of riding. He owned and -delighted to ride a fiery gray, which ofttimes taxed all his strength, -skill, and daring to master, and which occasionally ran away despite all -efforts. Once the steed, with the bit in his teeth, dashed headlong for -the stable. "Stevens is done for!" exclaimed Mason; "the stable door is -too low to ride under, and his brains will be knocked out." But the -rider threw himself along the side and neck of the furious animal just -in time to avoid this danger. - -Mason's warning was indeed in vain. Writes his intimate friend, H.L. -Smith, as early as April:-- - - "Not in love, Stevens; why, your description fired me. By heavens! - it is a glorious thing to see a girl with a large soul. Would there - were more such. 'Dark blue eyes;' 'Rides fearlessly;' 'Loves - Channing, Carlyle, Milton;' 'A sweet smile,' etc." - -He became a frequent caller upon, and intimate in the family of, -Benjamin Hazard. The latter was slowly sinking under the lingering -disease, consumption, which carried him off in 1841. The gifted and -sympathetic young man would have long talks and discussions with the -intellectual, learned, and experienced senior, and would read to him -from his favorite authors, Swift and Shakespeare. "I think our young -lieutenant is very handsome," remarked Mr. Hazard, doubtless alluding to -his fine head and sound, bright mind, and perhaps quietly rebuking the -disparaging term "homely." It was not long before he became an -acknowledged suitor for the hand of Miss Margaret, and they were -betrothed in the summer of 1840. - -The mansion occupied by this family, situated on Broad Street, on the -southern corner of Stone Street, and near the state house, is one of the -oldest in Newport, the timbers of which, according to tradition, were -cut and hewn in the woods between the harbor and the beach. By a curious -coincidence it has descended in the female line for three generations. -Before and during the Revolution it was the home of John G. Wanton, a -wealthy colonial merchant and the son of the colonial governor, Gideon -Wanton. - -It was a favorite resort of the brilliant French officers who landed in -Newport to aid the struggling patriots, one of whom cut with a diamond -upon a small, old-fashioned window-pane in the great parlor, "Charming -Polly Wanton, Oct. 17, 1780." But an American officer, Colonel Daniel -Lyman, afterwards chief justice of Rhode Island and president of the -Society of the Cincinnati in Rhode Island, married "Charming Polly" away -from her French admirers. - -Mary Wanton was an only daughter, and inherited the old mansion, where -she reared a family of thirteen children, and dispensed the gracious -hospitality to which she was accustomed. - -One of her daughters, Harriet Lyman, married Benjamin Hazard, and upon -the removal of Colonel Lyman and his family to Providence, succeeded to -the old Newport homestead, which thus for generations was the scene of -family happiness, worth, refinement, and hospitality. It is now owned -and occupied by two of Benjamin Hazard's daughters, Misses Emily Lyman -and Mary Wanton Hazard, who maintain the traditions of the old mansion -with charming grace. - -Now time speeds away rapidly and pleasantly with the young officer. He -has long talks and discussions with Mason, noted for his brilliant mind -and conversation. His official duties are congenial. He heartily enjoys -the social pleasures in which he takes part, and moreover he lays out a -stiff course of study for the winter. He writes uncle William, October -31, 1839:-- - - "My brother officer, Lieutenant Mason, is quite familiar with - politics. He is a Nullifier. I am a loco-foco Abolitionist. Though - we agree on many points, yet we have at times quite warm though very - friendly debates upon these points upon which we differ. I shall be - glad to spend most of the winter in study, and I think of giving - about half my time to my profession and its kindred branches of - physics and mathematics, and of the remaining portion a moiety to - politics and the political history of our country (which will - necessitate the careful reading and study of the Federalist and - Madison papers, and other documents illustrative of the peculiar - glories of our institutions), and the remainder to general reading." - - - TO HANNAH. - - My situation at Newport continues to please me as much as ever. We - are still pretty busy throughout the day, but are able to secure - considerable time for reading and study. - - I have been reading Byron's Poems of late. Although his verse is far - inferior (in my opinion) to Shakespeare and Milton, still it has - many and peculiar merits. Many of his productions are overflowing - with lofty and correct ideas. No sycophantic awe, or respect for - place and title, restrains his caustic and withering pen. He soars - upon his own pinions, and looks down upon them all. - -[Illustration: OLD WANTON MANSION IN NEWPORT] - -Thus his time was well occupied, yet he was also an indefatigable -correspondent, writing frequently to his West Point classmates and -friends, now beginning to scatter, and to his father, sisters, brother, -and cousins, but especially to his sisters, whose welfare and happiness -he had so much at heart. He is constantly sending them books and -papers, and advising them in regard to their studies and plans. Susan -was still in Missouri, doing well as a teacher. During the fall Hannah -was teaching school, or in Boston earning her livelihood in a store. -Elizabeth and Sarah were at school, and only Mary and Oliver remained at -home. The father, working too hard, had serious trouble with his injured -leg, and was unwell. But it was a joyous reunion when the elder brother -came home at Thanksgiving, and the scattered family were all assembled, -except Susan, in the great roomy kitchen in the old farmhouse, around -the well-filled board, loaded with the roast turkey and cranberry sauce, -snowy biscuits, mince, pumpkin, and apple pies, cake, preserves, and all -the good things of that generous and kindly season. - -Returning to Newport, Lieutenant Stevens made one of a class for the -study of German, although one may suspect that the language was not the -only attraction. Charles T. Brooks, the gifted poet, preacher, and -writer, and who has since translated so many poems and works from the -German, was then settled over the Unitarian Church in Newport, and a few -years previously had married Harriet Lyman Hazard, an elder sister of -Margaret. An accomplished and enthusiastic German scholar, Mr. Brooks -organized the class, and acted as their instructor. Mrs. Brooks, Mrs. -Shroder, Miss Margaret L. Hazard, Miss Julia Randolph, Stevens, and -Mason met regularly once a week at Mr. Brooks's house on Barney Street. -An incident is related showing the facility with which Mr. Stevens -acquired any subject which he undertook. Mr. Brooks one day asked him a -difficult question in grammar, which he answered promptly. Another -question was put with the same result. The teacher then plied him with -question upon question, all of which he answered without hesitation. -"Why," exclaimed Mr. Brooks, "you seem to know the whole grammar." "Oh, -yes," replied Stevens, "I've run it over." - -A long and affectionate letter from Susan informed him of her marriage -to David H. Bishop, a man of fine character, and engaged in the -profession of an educator, on December 26, 1839. Mr. Stevens at once -wrote to his new relative welcoming him in his hearty and warm-hearted -manner, and a friendly correspondence ensued between them, which -developed into a long and well-maintained political discussion, for Mr. -Bishop was a Whig, while Stevens was an uncompromising Democrat, of -Free-soil convictions,--"loco-foco Abolitionist," as he defines himself. - -In April the fostering and indulgent grandmother, the widow of the -Revolutionary soldier, Jonathan, died at an advanced age, attended -during her last illness by Sarah. Mary, early in the year, visited aunt -McFarland in Belfast, Maine. Elizabeth was in Lowell, and later also -went to aunt McFarland, and only Sarah and Oliver remained at home this -year. - -His father's letters reveal how much he was coming to lean upon the -self-reliant young man, and to feel the need of his support and -affection. "I was glad to hear you say in your last letter that in -matters relating to yourself you should be guided by your own judgment," -he writes. In every letter he urges him to come home, if only for a -short visit. - - DEAR SON,--In your letter to Oliver you mention not coming home - until Thanksgiving. I hope it will be convenient for you to come - home and spend a few days in the summer. Your visit in March was - very short, but short as it was, it was better than none. I learn - from you that you are far from being satisfied with your present - attainments. Why should young men talk of having finished their - education when in fact they have only commenced it, considering how - much more they might learn if they would only press forward! May all - you learn be sound and durable; one rotten piece of timber may wreck - a ship. Do not study too hard. My days of anticipating worldly - happiness are over (not so fast), I do anticipate seeing my children - useful and happy. - - Your father, - ISAAC STEVENS. - -Lieutenant Stevens was promoted first lieutenant, corps of engineers, -July 1, 1840. - -His active and thoroughgoing mind, looking beyond the duties assigned -him, saw the necessity of other works to complete the defenses at -Newport. He wrote urgent letters to the Engineer Department in -Washington, representing the need of a thorough survey of the harbor and -the surrounding ground, and especially of the fortifying of Rose Island, -which, situated in mid-channel between Rhode Island and Conanicut, and -three miles north of, or inside Fort Adams, would supplement and support -that work, and render the main entrance of Narragansett Bay impregnable -to a hostile fleet. He was ambitious to plan and carry out the -fortification of this point, but his recommendations were disregarded, -and he was informed that his views, though sound, were premature. Of -late years the importance of fortifying Rose Island has been recognized, -and the government has erected a powerful battery there. - -During the spring and summer his long-cherished idea of becoming a -lawyer took more definite shape in his mind, as will be seen from the -following letter to his uncle William, August 5, 1840:-- - - MY DEAR UNCLE,--You recollect that when last in Andover I was - revolving in my mind the expediency of studying law, with a view of - making it my permanent profession. Entering the West Point Academy - with no idea of remaining in the army, my present occupation cannot - be regarded as one that I have voluntarily and after mature - reflection selected, but as one which circumstances and good luck - have forced upon me. Therefore, in balancing the advantages and - disadvantages of the army and the law in order to a decision of the - question, Which shall I select as my occupation? I think I have - nothing to do with certain objections that many would advance, that - it would be changing my business,--it would betray a want of - fixedness of purpose,--it would be an act of inconsistency. To be - sure, some of the studies at West Point throw no light upon the law, - but most of them contribute, and contribute in an eminent degree, to - induce the habits and call out the faculties essential to the able - lawyer. Something more is wanted,--as a knowledge of the classics, - of ethics, of history. Three years' rigorous, systematic devotion of - my leisure moments to these pursuits would more than place me on a - level with the graduates of our colleges; by economy enough of my - pay could be laid up to defray my expenses, should I then resign and - go through a three years' study of the law. As the thing, therefore, - can be accomplished, as the law for many reasons would suit me - better than the army, as I have no false notions of delicacy on the - ground of consistency, etc., I have at length concluded to give up - the army for the law. As soon as I decided, I began to act. On that - very day, about three weeks since, I commenced Latin and a course of - reading in History. Greek I shall commence next November. As I do - not wish justly to render myself liable to the charge of hastiness - or obstinacy, I have determined to consult my friends. If they can - adduce reasons against my course, I should be very much obliged if - they would let me know them. The thought that one's course is - approved by his friends is consolatory,--it serves to strengthen his - confidence in his own judgment. It removes many cross currents that - would impede his course. _You_ it was that first suggested my - application to enter the military academy. Though the military - academy was not intended to make lawyers, yet in my case I hope it - may be an example that "the longest way round is the shortest way - home." I have been very fortunate in making the acquaintance of Mr. - Benjamin Hazard, whom (by report) you must know. He has the - reputation of being the first lawyer in the State, and is - unquestionably _au fait_ with his profession. He has been so kind as - to give me a great deal of information both with regard to law and - lawyers in this country, and the best method of studying law. Mr. - Hazard lent me some time since Warner's Law Studies. I read it - through twice very carefully, but much of what he said I thought - totally inapplicable to the profession in this country, much that - was contradictory, and some opinions I was confident were wrong. I - wish you would write me soon and give me your opinion of my course, - which is to remain in the army till the 1st of August, 1843, then to - resign and enter some office in Boston or Newport for three years. - From all I can learn, I think that Jeremiah Mason, of Boston, would - be the man for me. Whether he takes students I know not. Webster, - Mr. Hazard tells me, contends that Mason is the first lawyer in the - country,--superior to himself. Remember me to your own family, and - my friends generally. - - Your nephew, - I.I. STEVENS. - -He also wrote on this subject to his father, Mr. Hazen, and H.L. Smith. -All whom he consulted discouraged the project except his classmate, -Smith. Mr. Hazen judiciously advises:-- - - "It seems to me to be premature to determine quite so much at this - time. It occurs to me that you might enter upon a course of legal - reading, which would be useful to you in any station, uniting it - with attention to military duties, which would consist with - promotion in the army, and leave a little to the future to determine - between the professions." - -Although his increasing military duties, with his marriage and the -Mexican war, compelled him to defer carrying out this plan, it was never -definitely given up. The career open to him in the army did not satisfy -his ambition, and at last in 1852 he resigned, seeking a wider field. -Meantime he was keeping up his correspondence with his classmates and -friends. Halleck writes:-- - - UNITED STATES MILITARY ACADEMY, - WEST POINT, February 9, 1840. - - DEAR STEVENS,--It is now Sunday morning, and I know not that I can - better employ the time that will elapse before old Jasper commences - his oppression, than by writing an answer to your very kind letter - of last Sabbath. I am happy to renew with you our old friendly - intercourse. We have passed together four long years in mutual - goodwill and then parted, I believe, as warm friends, and why should - we now float away from each other towards the great ocean of - eternity without ever exchanging a friendly hail? My old associates - are still dear to me, and my lone heart sometimes softens when I - think of the past spent in their society. Indeed, I have here become - so disgusted with humbugs, toadeaters, and punsters, that my heart - gladdens at the receipt of a letter from an old friend whom I know - to be a reality and no sham. - - We have been co-workers in at least one thing, the Dialectic, and I - believe that to us as much or more than to any others, the society - owes its present prosperity. - - Sincerely yours, - H.W. HALLECK. - -Tilden, having become involved in a controversy with the authorities at -the Point, comes to Newport to consult with Stevens, who takes up his -case, advises him what to do, and writes Halleck, Smith, and others in -his behalf. "My visit to Newport," writes Tilden, "was of essential -service to me, and has served to strengthen the good resolutions -suggested by yourself and example." - -H.L. Smith, too, feeling aggrieved at the action of a court-martial -reflecting upon his evidence as a witness, has recourse to his friend -Stevens, who responds in such manner as to call forth Smith's grateful -and somewhat enthusiastic thanks:-- - - "I refer in part to your reply to Colonel Totten at table. Be - assured I _did_ anticipate your reply to my request. But, Stevens, - there are not many who would have taken the part of a friend as you - did with Colonel Totten. I shall never forget it as an act of - friendship, never cease to admire it as an act of generous - independence." - -Oliver visits him in September, and in his next letter speaks of "our -fine rides on horseback." Elizabeth has decided to go to Nashville, -Tenn., to visit her uncle Moses, principal of an academy there, in hopes -of finding employment as a teacher; and the father calls upon his son -in Newport for pecuniary assistance, and informs him that Hannah has -come home seriously ill. - -The next letter from his father contained the sad intelligence that -Hannah was sinking fast, and urged him to come home immediately. He -spent the last few days of life with the dying girl, doing all in his -power to comfort her. She died in November, 1840. - -On his journey back to Newport, Mr. Stevens stopped in Boston to hear a -lecture by John Quincy Adams, an account of which he gives his father:-- - - "His subject was the four stages of man in his progress from the - savage to the civilized state,--first, as a hunter; second, as a - shepherd; third, as a tiller of the soil; fourth, as a member of a - community in which all trades, occupations, arts, and professions - were confined to their appropriate spheres, each receiving the - protection and encouragement of all. His delivery was very - energetic, though uncouth. His fancy was exuberant, and his - speculations were not entirely, it seemed to me, supported by the - truth of history. - - "I wrote to Susan, as you desired, and gave her a detailed account - of Hannah's illness, with such other matters as I thought would be - interesting. Since I have been back to Newport, I have been reading - Blackstone pretty diligently. Thus far, I am much pleased with him." - -"It was a sad Thanksgiving at the homestead this year," Oliver writes, -"so different from the year before, when all were at home except Susan, -and death had not yet broken the family circle." Now all the children, -except Sarah and Oliver, were scattered far and wide,--Susan at Union, -Mo., Elizabeth at Nashville, Tenn., Mary in Belfast, Maine, and Isaac in -Newport. The father was again disabled with his leg, and unable to -attend the Thanksgiving sermon. Oliver concludes his pathetic letter -with a wish to go to West Point. - - NEWPORT, December 15, 1840. - - DEAR BROTHER OLIVER,--I have been very busily engaged since your - letter came to hand in preparing an address to be delivered before - the Newport Lyceum. As it was the introductory one, I felt very - desirous that it should be no discredit to myself, and that all - proper expectations should be fully realized. This is my apology for - not immediately answering your letter. As the address has been - delivered, I will now write you briefly respecting the - subject-matter of the latter part of your communication.... - - There is nothing new here. I am passing my time very pleasantly. We - have a debating club in successful operation, consisting of about - sixty members,--clergymen, lawyers, physicians, tradesmen, etc., - etc. We have a talk this evening on the French Revolution. I don't - know whether I shall say anything or not. Write as soon as you can - find it convenient. Remember me to father, mother, and Sarah, and - friends in general. I hope father will take every care of his - health. Is it vacation with John Loring now? One of his classmates, - young Dunn, is at home in Newport. - - Your brother, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - Mr. O. STEVENS. - - NEWPORT, R.I., January 17, 1840. - - MY DEAR FATHER,--As soon as I get to Washington I shall put Oliver's - application on file in the Department of War, and will obtain an - interview with Mr. Cushing to secure his interposition, of which I - think we may entertain some expectation, as no one has yet applied - for the vacancy in his district. One of my classmates, Lieutenant - Halleck, who is on duty at Washington, was kind enough to ascertain - and inform me of all cadets and applicants from Massachusetts, with - their districts, and in his list I perceive the 3d District is put - down vacant without any applications. I have never seen our - representative, for which reason some might deem it advisable to - procure a letter of introduction; but after some consideration I - have concluded to take none, but to introduce myself. It is better, - if successful, than the other mode; to be sure, the risk is - greater,--I will run it, however. If I make a good impression on - Mr. Cushing under the circumstances of a vacancy and no application, - it may go far towards getting his assistance. I will try it at all - events. - -[Illustration: ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS - _From Miniature by Staigg, 1841_] - - I shall leave on Wednesday and be absent three weeks. The Armisted - case comes up before the Supreme Court next Friday, and will - probably be in progress the ensuing week; this will enable me to - hear Mr. John Quincy Adams, of which I am very desirous. Mr. Clay's - resolution respecting the repeal of the Sub-Treasury will soon be - called up, and will probably cause that whole subject again to be - discussed. Should it call out the able men of the Senate while I am - in Washington, I could not desire a better opportunity to compare - them. I will write you on my arrival, and afterwards from time to - time. You must take good care of your health, and take things - easily. I know of no one that has a better right. We have nothing - new in Newport. My health is perfect both in body and mind; in other - words, I have never had better health in either respect. Give my - love to all friends and the family. - - Your son, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - -Writes Halleck, January 15, 1841:-- - - I hope to soon meet you here, and enter into a friendly interchange - of thoughts and feelings without the formality of paper and ink. I - am anxious to give you a hearty shake by the hand and welcome you to - Washington. If you are left to your leisure hours, you will - undoubtedly have much enjoyment both in society and in Congress. You - must not anticipate too much pleasure in the crowded parties of the - metropolis. To me they are perfect bores. - - Let me know when you are to come on, and if not immediately I will - write you a long letter. Read this if you can. - - Yours in the true bonds of friendship, - H. WAGER HALLECK. - -Although unable to procure the cadet appointment for Oliver, he greatly -enjoyed his first visit to the capital, especially the debates in the -Senate, where he listened to both Clay and Webster. The former impressed -him as more a leader of men and controller of measures than the latter. - -One would think that with his official duties, and all the studies and -pursuits he was carrying on, every minute of his time must have been -taken up; yet he organized a course of lectures for the winter, and -himself delivered an address on Oliver Cromwell, whose character and -achievements he greatly admired. In this lecture he presented with great -force and clearness a new and original conception of the great Puritan, -depicting him as a true patriot and a religious, God-fearing man, -obliged by the circumstances of the times to seize the helm of state in -order to save his country from despotism or anarchy. This was much the -view afterwards so ably set forth by Carlyle. This lecture excited no -little attention at the time; and when Carlyle's Cromwell appeared, not -long afterwards, it was said that the lecture would seem to have been -taken from that work, had it not been delivered before that was -published. He afterwards delivered this lecture in Andover and other -places. - -In the spring of 1841 he was placed in charge of Fairhaven Battery in -New Bedford, Mass., in addition to his duties in Newport. This required -frequent trips to the former place, which he usually made by stage, but -several times he traversed the intervening country on foot. On one of -these trips, in an economical mood he refrained from dinner in order to -save the cost of the meal. Soon afterwards a lean and friendless dog -attached himself to him, and followed his footsteps so persistently, and -looked so piteous and hungry, that the young man's sensibilities were -touched, and he stopped at a farmhouse and purchased a good dinner for -the half-starved animal, which, as he laughingly declared, cost all he -had saved by his self-denial. - -[Illustration: MARGARET LYMAN STEVENS - -_From Miniature by Staigg, 1841_] - -A letter from Mr. Bishop conveyed the afflicting and unlooked-for -intelligence of the death of Susan, April 8, 1841, from pulmonary -disease, after a brief illness. Thus unexpectedly passed away another -loved sister, and one whose sunny, affectionate disposition, fine mind, -and high principles had especially endeared her. - -Benjamin Hazard died March 10, 1841. During his lingering illness he -derived much comfort and pleasure from the society and attentions of the -talented and sympathetic young man. He gladly sanctioned his betrothal -with his daughter Margaret, and willingly intrusted the future of his -beloved child to one whom he both loved and respected, and in whose -character and ability he had the fullest confidence. - -The marriage was solemnized by Mr. Brooks, September 8, 1841, in the -great parlor of the old mansion, the same apartment which witnessed the -wedding of "Charming Polly" and her Revolutionary hero, and of their -daughter Harriet and Benjamin Hazard, the parents of the present bride. - -It was a quiet and simple ceremony, so soon after the death of Mr. -Hazard, but the ample room was well filled with beautiful young girls, -the sisters and cousins of the bride, officers in full uniform, the -companions of the groom, and old friends of the family. Hither came from -Andover the groom's brother Oliver, and cousin Henry H. Stevens, his -West Point friend, Lieutenant Jeremy F. Gilmer, from Washington, -Lieutenants James L. Mason, Henry J. Hunt, and Lewis G. Arnold, from -Newport, and a goodly number of Lymans and Dunnells from Providence, -uncles, aunts, and cousins of the bride. - - - - - CHAPTER VI - - CHARGE OF WORKS: NEW BEDFORD, PORTSMOUTH, PORTLAND, - BUCKSPORT - - -The wedding journey was to New York by Long Island Sound, and thence up -the Hudson to West Point, where they spent several days, and were -received with flattering attentions by his old friends. With great pride -and pleasure Mr. Stevens presented them to his lovely bride, and -revisited with her the romantic scenes of the Point, endeared by so many -pleasant associations. They returned by way of Springfield and Boston. - - NEW BEDFORD, September 24, 1841. - - MY DEAR FATHER,--I was very glad to see Oliver and my cousin Henry - at Newport on the occasion of my marriage, and, though your presence - would have afforded me much pleasure, yet, as I well knew that it - was a busy season with you, and that something very unusual only - could induce you to leave home, I was not much disappointed at your - not coming. You will certainly see us as early as next Thanksgiving. - We had a most pleasant trip, were favored with unusually fine - weather, and were disappointed in no one of our anticipations. - Margaret had never visited West Point before, and had always lived - in a country the scenery of which is very tame compared with the - alpine grandeur of the Highlands. I had said a great deal to her - about West Point, and I feared that her expectations were raised - high above the reality. I was, however, agreeably surprised by her - assertion that her ideas had scarcely approached the truth. The day - after our arrival at West Point she insisted upon climbing to the - Crow's Nest, which you recollect is two miles from West Point, and - commands the plain about twelve or fourteen hundred feet. Finding - that my dissuasion had little effect, I took her up one of the - roughest ways,--in many places we had to ascend almost perpendicular - rocks. In one hour and a half we were on the very topmost height of - the mountain. We came back by a rough, winding, long road, and got - to the hotel four hours after leaving it. I call that a pretty good - feat for a lady. From Hudson to Springfield the road was completed - except about two miles near Chester Factories. It passes through a - most wild and picturesque country, follows the valley of one of the - rivers that empties into the Connecticut for some thirty miles, - crossing it frequently and constantly changing direction, and is - constructed in a truly magnificent style. - - We got back to Newport just seven days after leaving it. There I - found orders had been awaiting me two days to repair to New Bedford, - to take charge of all the repairs of the old fort. You can judge of - the urgency of the orders from my going to New Bedford the next day, - and leaving Margaret at Newport, where she has been ever since. We - arrived at Newport about four o'clock on Thursday. I left the next - day at two o'clock, made an inspection of the fort on Saturday - forenoon, issued a hand-bill the same day for mechanics and - laborers, and on Monday morning had a gang of about twenty men at - work. I never was in New Bedford before, and knew not a single man - in the place. Monday morning I fell in with a real full-blooded - Yankee, whom I engaged as overseer, and immediately sent around the - country for stone-cutters and masons. I went on Monday into a ledge - of granite rock, and have already thrown out about two hundred tons - of stone, and got about a hundred feet cut. The people in New - Bedford are disposed to criticise my plans, but they will find out I - know what I am about, and that they had better save their sneers for - some other object. After I had been at work three days, I dismissed - three men for idleness, which had a very good effect. My plan is to - be rather familiar with every man, but at the same time to make - every one feel that he must do his duty. To-morrow I am going to - Newport after Margaret. I have been so busy that I have had no time - to miss her. In fact, this is the very first moment since I have - been in New Bedford that I have been able to write home. Now my - business has got into a regular course, and will require but little - time to attend to it. Whether I shall spend the winter in Newport, - or New Bedford, I don't know. I have at present only orders to get - in readiness platforms for nine guns. - - Your son, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - - Mr. ISAAC STEVENS. - -The young couple boarded in Fairhaven, a suburb of New Bedford, for -several months, and then removed to the town. They entered with lively -interest into the society of the place, at that time the abode of many -wealthy and somewhat aristocratic families. Mr. Stevens had already made -the favorable acquaintance of the first people before bringing his wife -there; her family and personal attractions were known, and they were -cordially received. Mrs. Hazard made them a short visit during the -winter. - -Halleck asks his assistance in starting an engineering journal for the -corps. - - I know too well your zeal for the profession to doubt for a moment - that the measure will receive your countenance, and the support of - your able pen. If we succeed in the undertaking, I am quite sure - that it will be of much advantage to us individually, and will - contribute greatly to the reputation of the corps. - - If the delights of married life have not entirely driven away the - recollection of old bachelor friends, I hope you will again favor me - with one of your old-fashioned letters. I have heard too much of the - attractions of your bride to scold you for so long neglecting me. - From all accounts, my dear Stevens, I must pronounce you a most - fortunate and happy man, and I shall embrace the first opportunity - to make the acquaintance of your lady, and most heartily welcome her - into our corps. - - Yours most truly, - H. WAGER HALLECK. - -The young couple spent Thanksgiving in Andover. The stern but -true-hearted father, deeply mourning the untimely loss of his two elder -daughters, was gladdened by the presence of five children,--Sarah, -Isaac, Oliver, Mary, and the new daughter, Margaret. The latter was -greatly admired, and was received with warm affection and kindness by -them, and by uncles William and Nathaniel and their families. She was -highly interested and pleased with the Thanksgiving festivities, a new -experience to her; for the Quakers and Come-outers of Rhode Island, many -of whom left Massachusetts to escape the tyranny of the "Lord Brethren," -never made much of that holiday, but kept Christmas instead. - -After a delightful visit of a week, they returned to New Bedford and the -pleasures of domestic life, and for the young husband what he always -enjoyed,--hard work. This seriously encroached upon his proposed course -of study and reading, yet with Mason he would run up to Providence to -hear Ralph Waldo Emerson's lectures. - -On June 9, 1842, their first child, a boy, was born in the old Newport -mansion, and named Hazard, after his maternal grandfather. - - NEWPORT, June 9, 1842. - - MY DEAR FATHER,--I came here last Friday with the intention of - returning to New Bedford on Monday, but I was seized with a very - violent bilious attack that kept me in the house for a day or two. - The physician that was called prescribed calomel, and I was fool - enough to take it, the consequence of which is that instead of being - perfectly well to-day, as I should otherwise have been, I have a - pain in my bones, and not half the elasticity that generally attends - my recovery. However, calomel or no calomel, I don't regret my - illness, for it has been the cause of my being in Newport at a most - interesting moment. Early this morning Margaret was safely delivered - of a fine, healthy boy, after an uncommonly short and easy labor. - She was fortunate in the attendance of a most judicious, skillful, - and experienced physician, a younger brother of her father, who has - been in an extensive practice for more than forty years. Now, - father, you may fairly say that you have a right to your gray hairs. - Gray hairs and grandfathers always go together. The little fellow - has been squalling most unmercifully this morning, and seems to take - it for granted that no one's convenience is to be consulted but his - own. If he will but show the same energy in the development of his - other faculties, we may expect great things of him. - - Your son, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - -During the greater part of this year Oliver pursues his studies at -Phillips Academy in South Andover; Sarah is teaching an unruly school in -Saugus, Mass., where she punishes a refractory boy, maintains order, and -overcomes the unreasonable anger of the boy's parents in a way that -proves her gifted with much firmness, decision, and good sense. Only -Mary remains at home. She writes: "We had a fugitive slave to spend the -night with us. He was as black a person as I ever saw." So it appears -that the old Abolitionist is doing his part towards the "underground -railroad," as harboring and forwarding fugitive slaves was termed. - -Elizabeth, in Tennessee, became engaged in the spring to Mr. L.M. -Campbell, a promising young lawyer, and they were married September 9. - -After the birth of the child, Mr. Stevens and his wife went to keeping -house in New Bedford. Sarah visited them in the winter, and on her -return home in March, 1843, they accompanied her as far as Boston, where -they remained a week while Mr. Stevens attended to some engineering -duties on one of the islands in the harbor. In April he was again in -Boston, while his young wife was visiting her mother in Newport for -election day in May, when the state government was to be inaugurated. - -Lieutenant Stevens received orders to assume charge of the -fortifications at Portsmouth, N.H., to which those at Portland, Maine, -were added soon afterwards. These consisted of Forts Constitution and -Scammell at the former, and Forts Preble and McClary at the latter -place. Breaking up housekeeping at New Bedford in 1843, and leaving his -wife and boy in Newport, and the little stock of furniture and -belongings stored in the old mansion temporarily, Lieutenant Stevens -proceeded to Portsmouth and took charge of the works. Having in his ever -prompt and energetic manner set everything under way, he returned to -Newport, and brought his little family to the new station. They boarded -for a short time, then he leased a spacious house, using a portion of it -as an office. They speedily found themselves among warm friends and -pleasant surroundings. Lieutenant Tom Breese, of the navy, a generous, -whole-souled gentleman, who had married Lucy Randolph, a cousin of Mrs. -Stevens, was stationed at the navy yard, and made them more than -welcome. Lieutenant A.W. Whipple, of the engineers, a fellow student at -West Point, was conducting a survey of the harbor. He became a -major-general, commanded the third division, third corps, Army of the -Potomac, and was mortally wounded at the battle of Chancellorsville. -There were also Colonel Crane, Captain Stanberry, and Lieutenants -William H. Fowler and Joseph Hooker, of the army, and Major Harris, of -the marines. Hooker afterwards rose to be major-general, and commanded -the Army of the Potomac at Chancellorsville. Portsmouth, like Newport, -had its old families and cultivated and agreeable society, which -cordially received the young engineer officer and his wife. Among the -first to call upon Mrs. Stevens were Mrs. John L. Hayes and Mrs. Samuel -Elliott Coues, two beautiful young women, the daughters of Mr. Alexander -Ladd, and a warm friendship grew up between the families, which -continued after all three moved to Washington in after years. - -In Portland, only a few miles distant, resided Rev. Asa Cummings, Mr. -Stevens's maternal uncle, the editor of the "Christian Mirror," and his -house was always open to the young couple like a second home. During the -winter Mrs. Stevens's sister Mary visited them. There was much social -visiting and many entertainments; they attended the marriage of -Lieutenant Whipple and Miss Sherburne. They were on board the frigate -Portsmouth when she was launched at the navy yard. - -Mr. Stevens found his hands full, with the two sets of works intrusted -to him, and was obliged to spend no little time in traveling between -them. At Fort Preble he planned and built the barracks, conceded to be -among the best arranged in the country. Having to cross the harbor -frequently in his visits to the fort, he had built at Newport one of the -catboats for which that town was famous, and had it brought to Portland. -He also brought on from New Bedford a faithful retainer, named Daniel -Murphy, and put him in charge of the boat. - -In addition to these onerous and responsible duties, he was placed in -sole charge of the fortification of the narrows of the Penobscot River, -where it was decided to build a regular, bastioned, casemated work for -forty guns on the right bank of the river, opposite Bucksport, to be -named Fort Knox. Mr. Stevens visited Bucksport in July, 1843, on this -new duty. The first thing to be done was to purchase the site for the -fort, and for this purpose he sought the owners of the land and made -arrangements with them. One of these, an old farmer, not deeming it -possible that the government could be represented in so important a -matter by so young, boyish-looking, and unassuming a man, refused to -talk with him, and soon afterwards, meeting an acquaintance, complained -to him about that young fellow, a mere boy, talking to him as to buying -his farm for the government, etc. To his astonishment, his friend -assured him that he had made a great mistake, that the young man was -Lieutenant Stevens, of the engineer corps, who had entire charge of -building the fort, and advised him to lose no time in seeking the young -officer and explaining his mistake, which he made haste to do. This -incident shows how youthful Mr. Stevens appeared at that time, although -twenty-five years old, a husband and a father. He was always quiet and -unobtrusive in manner, without a trace of self-assertion or -pretentiousness; and the marked impression he made upon all with whom he -came in contact was due to real superiority of mind and spirit, and not -to any adventitious advantages of stature or manner. - -He also, in July, visited Castine, and inspected and reported upon the -old works there, which had been fortified and held by the British during -the war of 1812. - -His sisters were again widely scattered from their father's house. -During the summer Sarah was staying with uncle Asa Cummings, and, being -attacked by a severe cough, Mary came there to wait upon her, and also -to attend school. Their brother Isaac constantly visited them, and -supplied them with books and comforts. He also freely aided Oliver with -funds. He was at North Yarmouth fitting for college, and helping himself -by teaching school. - -With all these calls upon him, Mr. Stevens was obliged to ask his father -to repay-- - - "as much, not exceeding one hundred dollars, as you can conveniently - raise. My expenses in the way of traveling have been very heavy this - year. Three journeys to Bangor already, and two more in - contemplation, besides quite a number between Portland and - Portsmouth. With this I send you the 'National Anti-Slavery - Standard,' the organ of the American Anti-Slavery Society. I have - just commenced taking the paper. I like its spirit and views much." - -In this letter he speaks of spending four days in Portland, and finding -Sarah improved and Mary well; gives a long account of the condition and -medical treatment of the former, and suggests means for her recovery and -plans for Mary's education. These sisters were very dear to him, and he -was very solicitous for their welfare. But Sarah rapidly grew worse with -quick consumption, and died February 8, 1844, only twenty-two years old. -After her death, Mary returned home. - -One day at Portsmouth, as Mr. Stevens was at work in his office and his -young wife was at the window, her attention was attracted by a unique -vehicle coming down the street, followed by a tail of small boys in high -glee. This was a rude sleigh fashioned out of poles, and drawn by a -rough-looking nag, whose coat was innocent of currycomb and brush. -Seated on a box in the bottom of the sleigh, and driving the horse with -entire unconcern at the attention he was attracting, was a large, tall -man, with light hair and fair, florid complexion, clad in homespun garb, -the very type of an independent backwoods farmer. Stopping at the door, -he inquired for _Leftenant_ Stevens, who ran down, and was surprised and -pleased to find in the rustic caller one of his mother's brothers, John -Cummings, from Albany, on his way to Andover. How uncle John received a -warm welcome, how he was brought in and given a hearty supper, while his -team was sent around to the nearest stable, and how he was loaded with -viands and supplies enough to last the remainder of his journey when he -resumed it, may be imagined. Such an opportunity to dispense hospitality -to one of his relatives was a source of unalloyed pleasure to the young -officer. - -The laying out and starting the fort at Bucksport engrossed most of his -attention in the spring of 1844. The care of important works at three -different places necessitated incessant traveling, besides which he had -to visit Boston periodically to obtain and bring down the public funds -required. With all these duties and cares he was more than fully -occupied, and was obliged to lay aside, for the present at least, his -projected law studies. He also sent abroad and purchased a number of -French works on fortifications and military history. He became deeply -interested in the forts under his charge, and was indefatigable in -urging upon the Engineer Bureau in Washington improvements and measures -which his active mind was quick to observe. Indeed, in his zeal he -overworked himself, and was prostrated with severe sickness in -consequence. "You work too hard," writes his sister Mary; "you will not -live five years unless you take business easier." During the summer he -was able to give Oliver employment on Fort Preble, and writes his father -that "Oliver has acquitted himself with credit; had to manage a gang of -twenty-five men." - -Mrs. Stevens spent part of the summer at her mother's house in Newport, -where, on June 27, their second child was born, a daughter, named Julia -Virginia. Early in August Mr. Stevens went to Newport to escort his -little family to Bucksport. They spent several days in Andover, -accompanied by Mrs. Stevens's sister Nancy, where they met Elizabeth and -her husband, just arrived from Tennessee on a visit. Mary was at home, -and there was a pleasant family reunion. After this agreeable little -visit they went to Boston and took the steamboat for Bucksport, Miss -Nancy Hazard returning to Newport. - -In the fall Elizabeth and Mr. Campbell returned to Tennessee, after a -round of visits to her relatives in Massachusetts and Maine. Mary -accompanied them. - -Arriving at Bucksport the last of August, they found quarters at an -old-fashioned country tavern, the only hotel in the place, where they -had comfortable though rustic accommodations. The principal people, with -the cordial hospitality characteristic of Maine, welcomed them to the -town. - -At first many, like the old farmer, were disposed to sneer at the young -stripling, but the energetic, thorough-going, and effective way in which -he organized and drove on the works, his decided, self-reliant -character, sound, sensible conversation, and simple, direct manners, -soon won their approval and admiration, and he became a great favorite, -and much respected and looked up to as well as liked. After a short -sojourn at the tavern, he leased a large, roomy house of Judge Pond, -half of which he set apart as an office, and made his residence in the -other half. Kidder Randolph, a cousin of Mrs. Stevens, was employed as -chief clerk, and with his wife, _née_ Isabella Updike, came on from -Newport. He also employed in the office Mr. Isaac Osgood, a -fellow-townsman from Andover, and on the works, as assistant, Mr. Abiel -W. Tinkham. - -The Penobscot at this point is some half a mile wide, with a strong -tidal current. For crossing the river he provided a four-oared barge, -over which Daniel Murphy was installed as coxswain. Every morning the -young engineer officer would cross the river to supervise the works, and -return to the town late in the afternoon or in the evening. A large -force was set to work. Soon deep excavations, great banks of earth, and -vast piles of granite and other materials attested the vigor with which -the construction was pushed. He visited many quarries far and near, and -examined and tested the granite. As this material was landed in great, -heavy blocks and masses on the river-bank, and had to be hauled thence -to the works up a considerable ascent, he bought many oxen for the -purpose, scouring the country for the largest and finest to be had. In -these teams he took great pride, and especially enjoyed taking friends -and visitors to see them. He was also quite proud of his ability to -select good workmen from their appearance. A well-shaped head, with a -full, high forehead, he used to say, denoted a good man, reliable, -intelligent, and industrious. - -The lonely old man in Andover writes a pathetic letter to Isaac in -December, urging him to make him a visit. Of his seven children, not one -was at home at Thanksgiving. Three daughters had died; the remaining two -were far distant in Tennessee; Isaac was in Bucksport, and Oliver in -North Yarmouth. With deep feeling the aged and lonely father writes: "My -children,--you may well suppose I thought of them." - -Mr. Stevens again had a severe sickness in the winter, the result -probably of overwork, although he used to say that the cold winter -climate of Maine did not agree with him, that it rendered his faculties -torpid or benumbed. In February, however, he visited Washington, and was -present at Polk's inauguration as President. He embraced this -opportunity to urge upon Colonel Totten, chief of engineers, the need of -increased appropriations for the works under his charge, and with such -success that the other engineer officers complained that Stevens had -left no funds for their works. - -During 1845 Mr. Stevens was vigorously pushing the building of Fort -Knox, as well as attending to the works at Portland and Portsmouth. In -May he received a confidential letter from Colonel Totten, asking if he -desired transfer to and promotion in one of the new regiments about to -be raised, which, with his characteristic reply, is given:-- - - [CONFIDENTIAL.] - - ENGINEER DEPARTMENT, - WASHINGTON, 28th May, 1845. - -LIEUTENANT ISAAC I. STEVENS, - _Corps of Engineers_, _Bucksport, Maine_: - -_Sir_,--In case of an increase of the military establishment at the next -session of Congress, I shall probably be called upon to know if any -officers of engineers desire a transfer to the new forces, with -promotion. - -Would you desire such a transfer? What is the lowest grade that you -would be willing to accept? And in what arm of the service? - - Very respectfully, your obt. svt., - JOSEPH G. TOTTEN, _Col. and Ch. Eng._ - -I have already been spoken to on this subject by one high in authority. - - BUCKSPORT, MAINE, June 24, 1845. - COLONEL JOSEPH G. TOTTEN, - _Chief Engineer_, _Washington_: - - _Sir_,--In answer to the confidential circular of the Department of - the 28th ultimo, asking if I should desire a transfer with promotion - to the new forces, in case of an increase of the military - establishment at the next session of Congress, I beg to say - generally and comprehensively that I hold myself in readiness to - discharge to the best of my ability the duties of any position which - shall enlarge my sphere of action and of usefulness, and with which, - in the judgment of those intrusted with the administration of public - affairs, I may be deemed worthy to be invested; promotion or no - promotion, in my own corps or in any other corps or department of - the public service, and whether the field of duty be in Oregon, - California, or at the North Pole. - - I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, - ISAAC I. STEVENS, _Lieut. of Eng'rs._ - -This reply evinces a certain impatience, or disapproval, at the idea of -consulting the personal wishes and preferences of an officer as to his -assignment to duty. Mr. Stevens always held high ideals of public -duty,--many would deem them quixotic and overstrained. He ever deemed -it the duty of appointing officers to select the ablest and best-fitted -man for any post or service that could be found, and that it was the -duty of every public officer to serve with complete self-abnegation and -patriotic zeal. His whole career proved the sincerity of his convictions -on this point. - -In consequence of the hostile attitude assumed by Mexico upon the -admission of Texas into the Union against her protests, Colonel Totten, -on June 8, writes the following confidential order:-- - - "In all the forts under your charge (including the narrows of the - Penobscot) you should, as soon as it can be done advantageously, - place all your batteries in a state of perfect readiness for guns, - leaving nothing to be done but the mounting of the guns when they - shall arrive. It is of infinite importance, should any exigency - arise, that the preparation of the country shall not be found - deficient in any manner depending on the Engineer Department." - -General Taylor with a small force was thrown into Texas to protect the -newly acquired State, and the increasing probabilities of war with -Mexico were eagerly discussed by the ambitious young army officers. In -September Mr. Stevens accompanied Colonel Totten on a tour of inspection -of all the works under his charge, and entertained him and Mrs. Totten -for several days at his house in Bucksport. - -Mr. Stevens was never so well pleased as when dispensing hospitality in -his own house. He was continually bringing friends home to dinner, often -on short notice, and always liked to have some of his relatives visiting -him. His wife's sister Nancy spent the summer with them. Brother Oliver, -uncle William's daughter Eliza and son William, Mrs. Hazard and her son -Thomas, and sister, Miss Eliza B. Lyman, and uncle Nathaniel, also -visited them, and, after much urging, his father, from Andover, was -induced to make a brief visit. He employed Oliver again this summer on -Fort Preble. Always ready and glad to serve any relative or friend, he -saw to the purchasing and shipping of several cargoes of hay for uncle -Nathaniel, declining to accept any recompense for his services. - -On December 7 the little girl, Julia Virginia, died of water on the -brain, after a brief illness. She was a beautiful, gentle child, and a -great pet of her father, who delighted to place her on his office table -when he was at work, oftentimes to the sad disarrangement of his plans -and drawings, and her death was a severe affliction. The following -beautiful lines were written by Mr. Brooks, in condolence upon the sad -loss:-- - - "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well - With that bright creature evermore, - Gone up, 'mid seraph bands to dwell - With God on yonder starry shore. - - "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well, - Though marble-cold that lily brow, - And though no sage nor seer can tell - Where soars the mind that beamed there now. - - "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well, - Though still in death that speaking eye; - A shadow o'er the spirit fell-- - 'T is past--a star is in the sky! - - "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well - With her, that sweet and guileless one; - Toll not for her the gloomy knell, - Though gilds her grave the morning sun. - - "Well with the child?" Ah, yes, 't is well, - And well with us who mourn, if we, - By penitence made pure, might dwell, - Sweet child of God! with Him and thee. - -During the winter Mr. Stevens organized a course of lectures for the -Bucksport Lyceum, delivering one lecture himself, and writing to -lecturers in different parts of the country, engaging their services, -and inviting them to his house. Among the lecturers and subjects were: -John A. Peters, on "The Profession of Politics;" William B. Merton, on -"American Literature;" J.A. Smith, on "The Present State of English -Poetry;" Henry Giles, George Shepard, and others, whose subjects are not -known. He also became interested in organizing a Unitarian Church in -Bucksport, and corresponded with Dr. A.P. Peabody in regard to a pastor, -etc., but it was found impracticable to do this. - -Mr. Stevens was never a sportsman or fisherman; indeed, he kept himself -so immersed in work as never to have time for field sports, yet he was -especially fond of the noble salmon which were taken in the Penobscot, -and delighted to send fine, handsome specimens of this noble fish to his -father, Mrs. Hazard, and other friends. He had a fish-weir built below -the fort, in which many fish were taken at times. - -Convinced of the desirability of organizing a body of engineer troops as -part of the army, for several years Mr. Stevens kept writing urgent -memorials and letters to the Engineer or War Department in advocacy of -the plan. In those days the rank and file were nearly all foreigners, -and far inferior in character to the regular soldiers of the present -day. For the engineer troops he advocated enlisting American young men -of intelligence, good character and physique, putting them under a -thorough course of instruction, with strict discipline, in order "to -raise them to the highest state of discipline and efficiency, a fair -representation of what an American army might and should be, so that -every man in the company can, if he chooses to study and do his duty, -become a good clerk, overseer, or practical engineer." Moreover, in case -of war, or an increase of the army, some of the best qualified and most -deserving men might be given commissions. He was deeply impressed with -and admired Cromwell's policy of raising his "ironsides" among men of -good family and substance, discarding "serving-men and tapsters," and -was full of the idea of making the American army as honorable for the -common soldier as for the officer. The soundness of these views is now -becoming recognized, and within the last few years steps have been taken -to raise the standard of regular soldiers by enlisting only the better -class of men, and giving them more instruction, advantages, and -opportunities, even to appointing officers from the ranks. - -At length the War Department decided to allow the raising of an engineer -company, and Lieutenant Stevens issued circulars calling for men, and -personally enlisted the first soldier in the new corps, private Lathrop. -The company formed part of Scott's army in Mexico, where it rendered -distinguished service under Captain G.W. Smith and Lieutenant George B. -McClellan, the former of whom became a Confederate major-general, and -the latter was the well-known commander of the Army of the Potomac. - -In July, 1846, Mr. Stevens was in Boston loading a vessel with material -for Fort Knox. During this summer Mrs. Stevens's eldest sister, Miss -Emily L. Hazard, with her little nephew, Charlie Brooks, made them a -visit, and two other sisters, Mary and Nancy, spent the summer and fall -with them. - -The Mexican war was now in full progress with Taylor's campaign on the -Rio Grande, and Lieutenant Stevens, ambitious for active service, but -unwilling to urge his personal wishes, writes the chief of engineers -that sedentary employment is prejudicial to his health,--needs exercise -in the open air,--would respond with alacrity to any call made upon him -for service in Mexico, adding that he makes no personal application, but -simply states facts, etc. At last, on December 25, he received his -orders, and in two hours was speeding by sleigh over snow-drifted roads -to Bangor, reaching Portland the next day, and Boston the 28th. Miss -Nancy Hazard went, under his escort, as far as Boston, returning home. -Miss Mary remained in Bucksport to spend the winter with her sister, who -needed her society and care, for on November 20, the second daughter, -Sue, was born. - - - - - CHAPTER VII - - VOYAGE TO MEXICO - - - BOSTON, MASS., December 29, 1846. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--We reached Boston yesterday at half past twelve, - after a very pleasant journey from Bangor. The weather was unusually - mild, and we experienced very little fatigue. Nancy took the - afternoon cars for Providence. This afternoon the steamer Perry runs - to Newport and will take her home. - - I shall not sail probably till Saturday. - - I have determined to take out a complete equipment, even to a - servant. I am causing inquiries to be made this morning, and in case - I find no one to my mind, I shall send for Daniel Murphy. Daniel - would be so devoted to me. If I were sick he would take care of me. - Daniel, too, would feel with me perfectly secure from all harm. The - quartermaster will furnish me here with a camp equipage. I shall - provide myself with a saddle, india-rubber leggings, and everything - complete, so that not for a single instant shall I be delayed on - reaching my destination. Immediately on my landing I wish to be - ready for service. I may take out a horse. I wish some of my good - friends would present me one. I should want a horse worth three - hundred dollars. - - I have sent for Oliver to spend the day with me to-morrow. I thought - it best not to send for father. It will be hard for him to part with - me, and he had better stay at home. - - Since leaving you my mind has dwelt much upon my little family. I - know you will look on the bright side. In all candor, I consider my - life as safe in Mexico as in Maine. I hope to get a sound - constitution, and to come back to you, my dear Margaret, in due - season, sound in body and none the worse for wear. You have a - treasure in your own mother and brothers and sisters. Mary is with - you. I feel grateful to her for giving up so promptly her own - wishes to stay with you. I hope you will have a pleasant winter. - Keep up your spirits, and have faith in the future and in the God of - the future. I go to Mexico without a single foreboding. I have - faith, almost implicit faith, that I shall come back. Have faith - with me. - - So long as I remain in Boston you shall hear from me every day. Love - to Mary and the chicks. - - Affectionately yours, - ISAAC. - - BOSTON, MASS., December 30, 1846. - -MY DEAR MARGARET,--Oliver has come down to pass the day with me. We are -hard at work preparing inventories and getting everything ready. We have -a fine vessel, and I look forward to a pleasant passage. - -Oliver brought me the sad intelligence of the death of Elizabeth on the -10th of December. Campbell wrote further a most feeling and excellent -letter. Elizabeth suffered but little, and everything was done for her -that could be suggested by the forethought of the most devoted of -husbands. - -Her child was very well. Mary, we expect, will return in the spring. I -shall try and send you a little note every day. Write me at Brazos -Santiago, and write often, commencing now. Write once a week, adding -something to your letters each day. - -Remember me to all. - - Affectionately, - ISAAC. - -Lieutenant Stevens's orders were to take charge of the pontoon and -engineer trains, then being loaded on shipboard in Boston, and accompany -the same to the headquarters of General Scott in Mexico, touching first -at Brazos Santiago, Texas. - -Notwithstanding the urgency of his orders, various delays occurred, and -it was not until the 19th of January that the vessel sailed. During this -period of waiting he had a visit from his father, and one from Oliver, -also. His cousins Charles and Henry also came down from Andover to bid -him good-by. He spent a day in New Bedford, calling upon his friends -there. Daniel Murphy, having fallen sick, had to be sent home. - - BOSTON, MASS., January 13, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--I wrote you a brief note yesterday, stating that I - should not probably sail for some days. Having nothing to do here, - yet obliged to remain to be in readiness to obey any new orders, I - shall endeavor to spend my time in some rational manner. There are - military matters to be looked into and old friends to visit. - - I hope I shall hear from you, before I leave Boston, and very much - in full. I wish once more to look into the little details of your - daily life, before I commit myself to the broad bosom of the great - waters. - - January 14. Yesterday I passed a portion of the day in Cambridge; - found Mrs. Breese and family all well. The children had grown much - since I last saw them. Mrs. Breese seemed very resigned, but she has - evidently been a great mourner. She was the same hospitable, - noble-hearted woman as of old. She expects to get to Newport about - May; will go to housekeeping in their old house. - - I saw the forty-eight Viennese dancers last evening. It was - splendid. They are young girls from four years to sixteen, all - handsome and perfectly trained. Everybody goes to see them. Last - evening there was a great turn-out of the beauty and fashion of - Boston. - - You shall hear from me again before I leave. There is no probability - of my sailing before Saturday. Love to Hazard and the babe. - Remembrances, and - - Yours affectionately, - ISAAC. - - BOSTON, MASS., January 15, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--There is now every prospect of my getting off - to-morrow. I may not reach the Brazos till the middle of February. - Colonel Totten left on the 12th for Mexico, and I shall without - doubt serve under his immediate direction. Eighteen officers of - engineers are either in Mexico, or on their way thither. - - I trust I shall get a few lines from you to-morrow before I sail, as - otherwise a month must pass before any tidings reach me. Do not fall - to write quite often to me at the Brazos. I shall not object, you - know, to find a dozen letters, more or less. - - To-day I dined at Mr. Eben Dale's, a nephew of aunt Cummings. Cousin - Charles Stevens dined there also. He designs going this evening to - see the Viennese dancers. I wish you could see them. Everybody is - charmed. Whole families go, children and all, and to-morrow there is - to be an afternoon exhibition for the particular benefit of the - children. - - I will write you again before I sail. - - Affectionately yours, - ISAAC STEVENS. - - BOSTON, MASS., January 19, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--It is now ten o'clock in the morning, and I shall - in an hour take my departure for Mexico. - - We have a fine vessel--good officers and crew--and it is a charming - day. - - I hoped to have heard from you before I left, but no letter has - reached me. - - God bless you and the little ones. - - Yours affectionately, - ISAAC. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--It is now January 27, and the eighth day of our - being at sea. I wrote you a brief note on the day I sailed, Tuesday, - January 19. We left the wharf at three P.M., with a strong westerly - wind, which drove our bark through the water at the rate of eight - knots per hour. The weather was very cold, but with my cloak around - me, I remained on deck several hours. Soon Boston and its suburbs - vanished in the distance, and we were fairly embarked on our - journey's way. As I think it will interest you, I will jot down the - occurrences of each day since our departure. And first of all, my - ocean home is in a beautifully modeled and fast-sailing bark of - about two hundred tons, called the Prompt. There are twelve souls on - board: Captain Wellman, first officer Gallicer, second officer - Stebbins, six men before the mast, one man acting as cook and - steward, my servant, a nice Irish lad, Owen Clarke, nineteen years - of age, and your humble servant. The officers of the bark are a fine - set of fellows, and the crew perfectly cheerful and attentive to - their duty. Tuesday evening I was not much troubled with - sea-sickness, and I enjoyed a good night's rest; but Wednesday, - January 20, was a hard day, nothing but sea-sickness. In pursuance - of the advice of Captain Wellman, I remained on deck as much of the - time as possible. The weather was somewhat cold, but the wind - moderate. We drifted along the greater portion of the day, not - faster than two or three knots an hour. After suffering from - sea-sickness till noon, I went to my berth. There is an - inexpressible lassitude accompanying sea-sickness, that is worse - than anything else. It requires an effort to make the least - exertion. - - Thursday, January 21. This day we had snow all the time. I remained - on deck twelve hours, and towards evening felt vigorous and well. - The weather begins to grow milder. I begin to relish food and to - enjoy sea fare. Our steward has been sick ever since we left port, - and we are in consequence obliged to do the best we can without a - cook. It is now evening, the breeze freshens, the bark dances along - merrily, and there are signs of a gale of wind. I remained up till - eight o'clock, and then retired for the night. As I awoke from time - to time, I could observe from the working of our vessel that it went - hard on deck. I took things quietly and remained in my berth, and - about sunrise of - - Friday, January 22, I went on deck. The scene was wild and exciting. - The ocean tossed in wild confusion, and our brave bark riding the - crests of the waves like a sea-bird. The gale had been a severe one, - and the captain told me that at one time he expected he should be - obliged to lay to under bare poles. We pursued our way before the - wind, making nine and ten knots per hour. - - Saturday, January 23. The sea has become much smoother and the - weather milder. Yesterday we were in the midst of the Gulf Stream, - and to-day we have passed it. - - Sunday, January 24, was a beautiful day. The weather mild and lazy. - I was on deck all day,--part of the time reading, and part dozing - and sleeping. It is comfortable on deck without a coat. We are - getting rapidly into southern latitudes. - - Monday, Tuesday, January 25, 26. Head wind and slow progress. Monday - we saw several sail. The weather exceedingly mild and soft. I never - enjoyed existence more than on these two days,--that is, mere - existence. I dreamed away many hours, and built and pulled down air - castles. The thought of home was uppermost. What a change in outward - things in six days. In Bucksport you wrap your cloaks and comforters - around you; at sea we pull off our coats. My health is perfect; - everything like sea-sickness has left me. - - Wednesday, January 27. This is likewise a mild, soft, somewhat damp - day. We make exceedingly slow progress; the wind is dead ahead. I - fear we shall be a month reaching the Brazos. Shall I hear from you - there, and how many letters will await me? I trust I shall be with - you again in the course of the summer. I dwell much on my probable - duties in Mexico. In case the contest should be of short duration, I - shall certainly return in the course of the year. I fear that you - will take things hard in my absence. When I reach the Brazos, I may - be able to speak with some certainty of my duties in Mexico. - - Thursday, January 28. Last evening we had a rough night. This - morning the sea is very rough, and our bark is pitching about in all - directions. I am fortunate in having no return of sea-sickness. My - boy, Owen, is not so fortunate. I observed his head over the - bulwarks a few moments since in no equivocal position. He is a nice, - willing lad. I picked him up in Boston, the very day we sailed. He - is now in the steward's hands learning to cook. On reaching the - Brazos, he will be quite accomplished in the culinary art. - - Friday, January 29. To-day we are making fine progress, about nine - miles per hour; shall reach the Abaco Island, one of the Bahamas, on - Saturday (to-morrow night) at this rate. The weather is charming. I - have most of the day read in my military works, sitting on the deck - of the vessel. The weather is, indeed, rather warm. - - Saturday, January 30. Last night there was a change of wind, and - to-day we are making little or no progress. The sea somewhat rough. - We shall not reach the Abaco this evening. - - Sunday, January 31. Last evening the wind died away, and to-day we - have not moved one mile per hour. The sun has been warm; I have worn - nothing about my neck to-day. Several of the men are barefoot, and - all of us are in our shirt-sleeves. We are in about latitude 27°, - and some one hundred miles from the Bahamas. This calm weather is - very tedious, but we must be patient; we have now been out twelve - days. - - Monday, February 1. This has been an exquisite day. Soon after - dinner our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of land, the first - since leaving Boston, thirteen days since. Our bark glides along - with scarcely any perceptible motion. Towards night we approached - the Great Abaco, and about seven saw the revolving light and the - Hole in the Wall, caused, according to the jolly sons of Neptune, by - the Devil's chasing a porpoise through the rock-bound shore of the - Great Abaco. The hole is, indeed, a small arched opening through the - rocks, admitting the passage of a small boat. - - Friday, February 2. Another splendid day. Early in the morning we - made the Berry Islands, inhabited by some fifty or sixty blacks - under a black chief. We saw one of their boats returning from - turtle-fishing. About seven we commenced crossing the Bahama Banks - in soundings, nearly all the way of one hundred miles, from twelve - to twenty-four feet. We had a clean run, and went into deep water - about seven o'clock, running the one hundred miles in about twelve - hours. The evening was surpassingly lovely. I remained on deck till - ten, looking at the stars and thinking of home. - - Wednesday, February 3. This day has fairly brought us into the - Mexican Gulf. In ten days, I trust, we shall reach the Brazos. - To-day I have been overhauling my clothes. My boy Owen has mended - some rents in my garments. He says he can wash like "fun." The - captain teases him a good deal about the bright Irish lass he left - in Ann Street. Owen wants me, when I reach Mexico, not only to buy a - mule for his use, but a little cart for the things; quite an idea. - To-day we are in latitude 24° 13'. The weather very warm. I have - found the heat quite oppressive. - - Thursday, February 4. Nothing of consequence has occurred to-day. We - are moving on quickly with prosperous though gentle winds. - - Friday, February 5. Everything has moved on lazily to-day. We have - seen several vessels. - - Saturday, February 6. Same as yesterday. A vessel is in sight, - apparently bound to the north. It is now nearly three o'clock, and - we have been out eighteen days. I shall seal up and send this letter - by the vessel, if she prove to be bound north, and I trust it will - find you well. We are now about five hundred and sixty miles from - the Brazos. Shall I hear from you there? Love to the children, to - Mary; remembrances to Mr. Osgood, Kidder, Mr. and Mrs. Tinkham. - - The vessel did not send her boat, and no opportunity was offered to - send this letter. We passed directly under her stern. She was a brig - of two hundred tons, and bound to New York. This letter must remain - on my hands till I reach the Brazos. - - Sunday, February 7. A most melancholy event occurred on board today. - As I was lying in my berth, about a quarter before twelve o'clock, - Captain Wellman came into the cabin, somewhat agitated, and said to - me, "Our steward is not to be found." All hands were on deck in a - moment, and a thorough search was made in all parts of the ship. The - steward was not to be found anywhere. The appearance of the galley - was conclusive as to his having thrown himself overboard. He was - seen at half past eleven, and yet little or no preparation had been - made for dinner. He had been observed to be moody and absent-minded - in the course of the morning. We could assign no cause for the act. - He had been treated well, and his duties were light. My servant had - assisted him throughout the passage. His sudden disappearance whilst - four men were on deck, in good smooth weather, caused us all to feel - melancholy. We ate very little dinner. Our thoughts were sad, and we - passed much of our time through the remainder of the day in - recalling every little incident of the voyage having any connection - with the unfortunate steward. The only thing which gave any light - was certain expressions he had made use of, showing a melancholy and - restless spirit. We found out, moreover, that he was suffering very - severely from the bad disorder, contracted some two months since in - Liverpool. This may have been the cause of his making way with - himself. - - Monday, February 8. We none of us passed a quiet night, in - consequence of the distressing event of yesterday. One of the crew - has been put into the galley, and things go on in the accustomed - manner. This evening the effects of the steward were disposed of to - the crew at auction; and so he has gone to his account, and our bark - is pursuing her destined course. Our vessel has gone on very quietly - the last two days. - - Tuesday, February 9. We still have quiet times, and are gradually - approaching the Brazos. With tolerable good luck we shall arrive - there in two or three days. It is now evening and seven o'clock. - There is every appearance of a norther. The captain has been - somewhat anxiously pacing the deck for the last hour. It is now - eight o'clock, and I will turn in for the night. - - Wednesday, February 10. A severe norther came up about nine last - evening, and is now sweeping over the Gulf. Our bark works - admirably. Occasionally she ships a sea. But her deck for the most - part is dry. The weather is very cold, and I have kept my berth - nearly all day. - - Thursday, February 11. The norther did not commence to abate till - noon to-day. It is now six P.M. The water is comparatively smooth. I - have been somewhat unwell for two or three days, but hope to become - well with smoother weather. - - Friday, February 12. We had a quiet night, and this morning we have - scarcely a breath of wind. Our estimated distance from the Brazos is - about sixty miles. We shall not arrive till to-morrow. I fear I - shall not hear from you. There is some, yes, great doubt, whether - letters to the army are forwarded by mail beyond New Orleans, in - which event all your letters to me will remain in the New Orleans - office; nor can they be forwarded till I can send for them by some - ship going there. - - Saturday, February 13. It is now about two P.M., and we are in - direct view of the Brazos, which is some six miles distant. We are - beating up against a head wind, and there is considerable doubt as - to whether we shall make our anchorage to-night. The wind has - gradually subsided, and it is now nearly a calm. Unless a fresh - breeze should spring up, we shall require another day. This is our - twenty-fifth day. - - Sunday, February 14, five P.M. I have just reached the Brazos, and - find General Worth, Colonel Totten, Lieutenants Mason and Tower, and - many other officers here. An opportunity offers to send this letter. - I will write again in a few days. I shall remain at the Brazos a few - days longer. Remember me to Kidder and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. - Tinkham, Mr. Osgood, and love of course to the children and Mary. - - Affectionately yours, - ISAAC. - - BRAZOS SANTIAGO, February 21, 1847. - - MY DEAREST MARGARET,--It is now Sunday, one week since I landed. - Your letter and Mary's have reached me, and I have had the - inexpressible pleasure of hearing from home. How happy it made me to - hear from you all! My little children are doing well, your health is - good, and you are passing a quiet and comfortable winter. It is the - greatest joy to me to learn all this. I knew you would find Mr. - Osgood a great addition to our little circle, and with Mary as your - companion, who has always sympathized with you entirely, I did not - anticipate a very tiresome winter. - - Since reaching here I have had little or nothing to do. It was - fortunate I reached the Brazos as early as I did. I saw and had some - conversation with Colonel Totten. On Monday, the day after my - arrival, General Scott and a portion of his staff departed for - Tampico. There were left behind four officers of engineers, of - General Scott's staff, with directions to follow by the first - opportunity. These officers are Lieutenants Mason, Trapier, Tower, - and myself. Mason is in fine health, full of animation and - conversation, and very popular with his brother officers. Tower is - the same as ever, a man of great native power, but entirely - unobtrusive. Trapier is an officer you have never seen, a man of - fine address and considerable ability. We all like him very much - indeed. - - The general left in excellent spirits. On taking leave of the - engineer officers he made some very complimentary remarks in - reference to the importance of our duties, and his expectations in - regard to us. He will remain in Tampico a few days and then proceed - to the Island of Lobos, where a large expedition is to concentrate - to land and attack Vera Cruz. It is expected that a force of - fourteen thousand men will effect a landing. General Worth is in - command of three thousand regulars at this point, most of whom have - embarked. General Worth and staff are still here. He is somewhat - delicate in health, but full of life and energy. He is thought to be - our great man to handle troops on a battlefield. - - I have seen a good deal of my old friend Hunt the last few days. He - is attached to Colonel Duncan's battery, and is now in my room - talking with Mason. He is a man I esteem very much, and he is as - worthy of it as ever. Colonel Duncan has just come in. He is a noble - fellow, not in the least elated by the enviable position he occupied - in the army and before the whole country. He is a man of - extraordinary energy of character, great decision, and great - sagacity. His name and his battery are a terror to the Mexicans, and - he is emphatically thus far the great man of the young officers. He - is modest, amiable, mild, as he is far-sighted, decisive, - indomitable. He is what his friends knew him to be years ago. Mason - and himself are great friends. - - Captain Saunders of the engineers is here on General Worth's staff, - and will probably be brevetted for distinguished services at - Monterey. - - I shall probably sail on Wednesday next for Tampico, and thence to - the island of Lobos. Lobos is about sixty miles south of Tampico, - and affords an ample protection against northers. At Tampico I shall - probably find General Scott and staff. There I hope to meet Tilden, - Carpenter, and other old friends. - - Everything is in the greatest confusion here; a thousand laborers - and teamsters are employed to manage teams, take care of animals and - stores, and load and discharge lighters. Ever since my arrival, - there has been the greatest hurry in embarking troops. There is - great want of system. Most of the men here in government employ are - not business men. Some of the quartermasters are inefficient. There - are some good men. The best business man in the quartermaster's - employ is Lawton, of Newport, brother-in-law of the Turners (Colonel - Robert R. Lawton). He is harbor master, and in receipt of one - hundred and fifty dollars per month. Everybody speaks of him in the - highest terms. He is energetic, intelligent, and perfectly - temperate. He looks in admirable condition. He has applied for, and - will probably receive, a captain's commission in one of the new - regiments. I have seen and conversed with him here. He is full of - hope, life, and energy. - - General Butler has just arrived from Monterey, on his return to the - States, and in consequence of his wound not healing. General Taylor - occupies a position in advance of Saltillo, with eighteen - field-pieces, a small body of regular infantry, and some six - thousand volunteers. - - My dearest girl, I know nothing certain of ulterior operations. - - We have great abundance of supplies and some seven thousand choice - regular troops. We cannot expect the same conduct from the - volunteers as from the regulars, but we hope they will gain laurels. - I shall endeavor to do my duty in whatever circumstances I may be - placed. I trust I shall have full strength to do my full duty. I - know this will accord with all the wishes of your own heart. I know - you would rather never see me than that I should return to your arms - with infamy on my brow. This latter would be terrible. The former - can be borne. - - As regards our dear children, I wish Hazard to go to school this - summer, and I am glad he continues to be so promising. Of all - things, I wish him to be obedient. Not the obedience of fear, but of - love and confidence. Our little Susan I know must be a bright, merry - child. Would that I could witness daily her youth, growth, and - development! - - Preserve a tranquil spirit; let hope at all times animate and - strengthen you. Have courage, have faith; we shall come together - again, all the better for the trials of separation. I shall write a - note to Mary to accompany this. The mail leaves to-morrow for New - Orleans. Write often, and continue to direct your letters to Brazos - Santiago. - - Remember me to all my Bucksport friends, to Kidder and his wife, - Osgood, Mr. and Mrs. Tinkham. Of course all the love in the world - for Hazard and Sue. - - Affectionately yours, - ISAAC. - - TAMPICO, Wednesday Evening, March 10, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--We left the Brazos this evening week, and shall - leave this place to-morrow morning. Our passage of only two hundred - and fifty miles thus occupied us seven days. We are somewhat - apprehensive that we shall not reach Vera Cruz till General Scott - shall have effected a landing. Mason, Tower, and three other - officers are with me. Our ship now lies three miles outside the bar. - Our passage up the river Tampico to this place (six miles above the - bar) was a fairy scene. Beautiful views met our eyes, and the - picturesque country about this place perfectly enchanted us. The - atmosphere is delightful. We see few but Mexicans about us. Every - one looks friendly. News has just reached Tampico that General - Taylor has had a hard-fought battle with Santa Anna. All the - accounts came through Mexican channels. Santa Anna claims a victory. - He states that Taylor is shut up in Monterey. But he admits that he - himself has not advanced. We infer and believe that Santa Anna has - been defeated, and will soon return to San Luis Potosi. I feel - sanguine that a decisive success on the part of General Scott may - terminate the war. I hope so. - - There is a chance to send this letter in the morning. I of course - write in haste. You shall hear from me again on my arrival at Vera - Cruz. - - Affectionately yours, - ISAAC. - - The landing took place on Tuesday and Wednesday last (March 9 and - 10), and the investment was completed on Thursday. The heavy - ordnance is still on board ship. The debarkation is said to have - been a most splendid affair. The first division landed in two hours. - General Worth was the first man to jump on shore. The city will - undoubtedly fall in a few days. No opposition whatever was made by - the Mexicans to the landing. There was a little skirmishing during - the investment. - - At the Brazos I lost my servant Owen. He found he could get much - better wages than I had agreed to give him, and in consequence - thereof he deserted me on the day I left, and I had not time to - recover him. I shall find some difficulty in procuring a good - servant here. - - I was very thankful that you wrote father and Mary. I wish you to - keep up some little correspondence with them during my absence. They - will always be glad to hear from you. My father has had his full - share of sorrow, and has suffered as much as most men I know. I have - never had so true and so disinterested a friend as he. He is - absorbed in his children, and, though he expresses little, he feels - much. His daughters have left him one by one, and but one is left. I - feel very sad when I think of him. I trust that Mary will be spared - to him for many years. - - We hope to get on shore to-morrow, but as a strong norther has been - blowing since last evening, and is not yet entirely abated, it is - possible we may not land till Tuesday. - - I shall keep this letter open till the last moment. The mail is - forwarded by vessels sailing to New Orleans, and is not very - regular. - - Thursday morning, March 18. We reached the anchorage off the island - of Sacrificios on Sunday, and did not get on shore till last evening - (Wednesday). We found the headquarters of General Scott some half a - mile from the place of landing. On our way thither we met Colonel - Totten and Captain Lee going out of camp on a reconnoissance. - - The camp occupies a circuit of some eight or ten miles. We find - every one in high spirits. The fact is considered unquestioned that - General Taylor has utterly defeated Santa Anna and driven him across - the desert. I meet many friends in camp. - - Sunday, March 21. I have now been on shore four days. We are busily - employed on the works preparatory to opening our fire on the place. - Everything is going on finely. My duties interest me much. The - climate is very fine. The colonel and his officers form one mess, - and we have a pleasant time. Don't believe the many idle reports in - regard to losses. Thus far we have lost only one man. The army is in - fine spirits. - - Love to every one of my friends, my dear children, and you, my dear - Margaret. I long to embrace you. I shall write again by next mail. - - Your affectionate - ISAAC. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - - VERA CRUZ.--CERRO GORDO - - -Vera Cruz, an old Spanish walled town on the Gulf of Mexico, with a -population of 12,000, was situated on a sandy plain, which, extending -back from the town, was broken by many sand-hills and ridges, and -covered in great part with dense chapparal. On the land side a strong -line of masonry works encircled the city from Fort Conception on the -beach above, or north of, to Fort Santiago below it; while on the sea -side the castle of San Juan de Ulloa, seated on an island a thousand -yards in advance of the town, commanded all approaches with 128 heavy -guns, and made the sea front doubly secure. - -The American army landed unopposed on March 9, 1847, on the beach a few -miles south of the town; during the next four days extended lines of -investment completely around the doomed city on the land side, and, -having with great labor and some interruption from northers landed the -heavy siege-guns, mortars, and material for the bombardment, commenced -the batteries on the 18th, the second day after the young engineer -officers reached the scene of action. They were at once set to work -reconnoitring the ground and the enemy's works by day, and laying out -the batteries and superintending the working parties by night. - -Lieutenant Stevens threw himself into this work with even more than his -accustomed zeal. On one of his daring reconnoissances the horse he -rode--a powerful and headstrong animal loaned him by his friend, -Lieutenant Tower--took the bit in his teeth and bolted directly for the -enemy's lines. Finding it impossible to stop or control the frantic -steed, Lieutenant Stevens, throwing his whole strength on one rein, -managed to make him swerve towards the base of a sand-hill, where he -threw himself from the saddle, escaping injury on the soft ground, while -the runaway continued his course to the very walls of the city. - -The batteries were placed midway between the lines of investment and the -city, and about 900 yards from the walls. Lieutenant Stevens was -indefatigable in searching out the best routes for the boyaux, or -covered ways, to enable the troops to pass to and from the batteries -without loss from the enemy's fire. The broken sand-hills and dense -chapparal rendered this a difficult and laborious task; and in forcing -his way through these thorny and almost impenetrable thickets his hands -were so badly torn, and perhaps poisoned, that for several days he was -obliged to have them bandaged with poultices of prickly pear. The route -which he thus looked out was adopted, and the construction of the -covered way was placed under his charge, with large working parties, for -several nights, until completed. His experiences are best told in his -own words. The independence, almost insubordination, of the new -volunteers is simply the common experience with citizen soldiery fresh -from home, but which they soon outgrow under good officers in a few -months' campaigning. - -Friday, March 18. At two A.M. Lieutenants Mason, Stevens, and Tower -entered the trenches and relieved Captain Lee and Lieutenants Beauregard -and McClellan. No workers or guards present, save twelve sappers, till -four o'clock. Lieutenant Mason at Battery 2. Lieutenant Stevens at -Battery 1. Lieutenant Tower in communication leading to cemetery. -Colonel Scott in command of the working party. A company of the 8th -infantry, under command of Lieutenants Jordan and Pitcher, in Battery 1. -About seven o'clock Lieutenant Foster relieved Lieutenant Tower, who -returned to camp to supervise construction of powder magazines. At half -past twelve Lieutenant Stevens ordered to examine the infantry -communication, reconnoitred on the previous day, in order to commence -the trenches at night with a working party. - -At two P.M. Captain Sanders on the naval battery. Lieutenants Stevens -and Smith on the right were on duty. The naval battery laid out during -the day by Captain Lee. Lieutenant Smith took particular charge of -Batteries 3 and 4, and the remainder of the communication to Battery 1, -with a fatigue party under Major Graham; Lieutenant Stevens, of the -boyau of communication from camp to batteries with a fatigue party of -400 volunteers, New Yorkers and Pennsylvanians. Did not report at beach -till nine P.M. Arrived on the ground at ten P.M. Two hours occupied in -laying out the boyau with a cord and getting the whole force at work. -Whilst Lieutenant Stevens was absent in discharge of his duties of -supervision at the batteries and trenches under the particular charge of -Lieutenant Smith, the volunteers abandoned their work and returned to -camp, excepting a small force of fifty men on the left of the large -sand-hill, in rear of which the communication passed. - -Saturday, March 19. About dark a large force of 400 men reported at the -old cemetery as a fatigue party in the boyau under the charge of -Lieutenant Stevens,--four companies of regulars, Brooks and Shackleford, -2d artillery; Lieutenant Ernst, 6th infantry; Lieutenant Rodgers, 2d -dragoons,--the whole under the command of Captain De Hart,--and four -companies of volunteers, Pennsylvanians. - -The regulars employed on communication from Battery 1 to Battery 2, on -parapet to the right of Battery 2, and on the trench from the upper end -of the valley to the first hollow of the natural trench leading through -the long ridge in rear of the batteries, the volunteers on the remaining -part of the boyaux. The regulars made their trench practicable. The -volunteers could not be made to work with the most strenuous exertions -on the part of the officers. Some were drunk and all sleepy. They -complained of being tired and hungry. Some delay occurred throughout the -works in consequence of a musketry fire from the trenches. Lieutenant -Mason in charge of a working party at the batteries. - -Monday, March 22. The boyaux of communication made practicable and safe -to-day, although not sufficiently commodious; a fatigue party of 200 men -reporting to Lieutenant Stevens, and commencing work at five A.M.; two -companies regulars of 2d artillery, Captain McKensie and Lieutenant -Hardcastle, Captain Kendrick; and two of marines, Lieutenant Adams. - -This party worked with extraordinary vigor till three o'clock, all the -men in the trenches all the time, the officers giving their whole energy -to supervising the men; Captain McKensie, in command of the working -party, exhibiting great energy and efficiency. The day was quite warm, -and an immense amount of work done. Lieutenant Mason at the batteries -with fatigue party under the command of Captain Swartwout. - -Tuesday, March 23. A fatigue party of 200 men reported to Lieutenant -Stevens, and commenced work in the boyaux at 9-1/2 A.M., working with -great vigor till dark, all the men constantly at work, and made the -boyaux very safe and commodious,--two companies regulars, Captain E.W. -Smith and Lieutenant Bissel, 5th infantry, two companies marines. - -NOTE. More work is done by day than by night under fire. The working -parties by day did at least double the work per man of the working -parties by night. A severe sand-storm blowing all day and night. - -Lieutenant Stevens reported the completion of the boyaux to the chief -engineer at 8-1/2 P.M., and, after an hour's rest, at his request -returned to the trenches and assisted Lieutenant Mason till relieved at -four o'clock in the morning. - -Thursday, March 25. Lieutenants Mason and Stevens relieved the engineer -officers on the right at four A.M. Great exertions were made at Battery -No. 4, which opened its fire at eight A.M. The fatigue party in the -trenches, Alabama volunteers, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel -Earle, remarkably fearless and efficient. One sapper and two volunteers -placed at each embrasure to repair it after every discharge. By their -courage and exertions, the fire of the battery was not obstructed during -the day. Lieutenant Mason made three reconnoissances of the enemy's -works, accompanied twice by Lieutenant Stevens. Two companies of the 1st -artillery served the guns, Captain Magruder and Lieutenant Haskin; Major -L. Whitney in command of the force serving the batteries. - -At eleven A.M. Captain Lee commenced establishing a new mortar battery -on the left of No. 1. - -Saturday, March 27. A severe norther raging yesterday made great ravages -in the works that were repaired to-day. Lieutenants Mason and Stevens in -the trenches at four A.M. A new mortar battery commenced yesterday -nearly finished to-day, under the particular direction of Lieutenant -Stevens, with a working party of one company of the 4th infantry under -the command of Lieutenant Lincoln. - -Sunday, March 28. A partial survey of the trenches made by Lieutenants -Beauregard, Stevens, and Tower. - - CAMP WASHINGTON (three miles from VERA CRUZ), - March 27, 1847. - - MY DEAREST MARGARET,--I have now the unspeakable satisfaction of - telling you that both the city and the castle have capitulated after - a bombardment of rather less than four days, and from the ninth day - of opening the trenches, and with a loss on our side of less than - forty in killed and wounded. I will tell you what your poor - subaltern of a husband has had to do in this matter. On Thursday, - March 18, I made a reconnoissance with Mason to determine the - position of a road for wagons, and of a covered communication for - infantry. On Friday morning, March 19, I left camp at two in the - morning, and was kept hard at work till four the next morning in - constructing a battery and opening the communications thereto. - During the course of this operation the enemy hurled at us some two - hundred round-shot and shells. None came very near me. I had to - encourage the men at their work, and had no time to attend to my - fears. - - VERA CRUZ, April 3. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--It is now Saturday, and we have been in possession - of the city one week. Great destruction was spread throughout the - city by our shells. In the portion next to our batteries a shell - entered every house, and almost each room of every house, in - consequence of which many inoffensive people were killed. Vera Cruz - is a miserable, dirty place; the streets are full of filth, and - there are great numbers of poor people. Many families still keep - their doors closed, though scarcely an outrage has been committed in - the city. The people, though miserably poor, are very courteous and - mild in their general deportment. Ever since our entrance into the - city, the poor have been fed each day from our government stores, - and every exertion is made to protect the whole city in its rights. - - General Worth is governor of the city. The weather is rather warm, - and we find mosquitoes, fleas, etc., troublesome. The city, though - sorry in its sunlight aspect, is remarkably picturesque by - moonlight. The style of architecture is of the Moorish character, - abounding in domes and highly wrought work. I have several times - wandered through the deserted streets of the city by night, filled - with admiration of the gorgeous and Oriental aspect of the scene. It - surpasses anything I ever saw. My health is very fine. - - VERA CRUZ, April 10. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--We are now preparing to march into the interior, - and shall probably leave in a day or two. One half of the army are - already on their way. We hope to enter the City of Mexico, and to - contemplate the wonders of the capital, in one month. In the - reduction of the city we have had fortune on our side. The grossest - supineness prevailed in the Mexican ranks, though at times they - awoke from their slumbers and poured into our midst well-directed - fires of artillery. Our loss is very little. John R. Minton, a most - gallant soldier, was killed on the first day of opening our fires. - He was universally esteemed, and I had made his acquaintance on the - first day of landing. He died for his country, before his country's - gratitude for gallant services at Monterey had been communicated in - the shape of a brevet. - - The burden of the day came with great weight on the officers of - engineers. It is the universal sentiment of the army that they did - their duty. We see it in the individual deportment of every officer - with whom we are associated on duty. We had exciting times. Friends - whom I had not seen since I left West Point, I shook for the first - time warmly by the hand under the heavy fire of the enemy's - batteries. I met Haskin and Callender in such a conjuncture. There - was not the least shrinking from duty, but each one stood up - manfully to his task and did his whole duty; we all worked hard. The - engineers failed in no part of their duty, and the consequence was - that the loss of human life was comparatively trifling. I never - worked so hard in my life. It was our first experience in the field, - and I think we have fulfilled the expectations of the general and of - our immediate chief (Colonel Totten). - - I have already written you in relation to the city. We all long to - leave so much moonlight magnificence and sunlight squalidity, and - breathe the pure mountain air of Jalapa and Perote. Our troops are - yet comparatively healthy. The sickly season will not come upon us - for a month. Up in the mountains it is the most salubrious and - delightful climate of the New World. Our troops conduct themselves - with remarkable propriety. Very few cases have occurred of excesses - of any kind, and all such are punished with extreme severity. Mason - is in fine health, and is doing, as was to be expected, good - service. All our officers are superior men, and we stand by each - other like a band of brothers. - - I have secured a beautiful animal in the way of a horse, docile as a - kitten and very intelligent. He has a beautiful eye and head, and - will follow me wherever I go. I intend to bring him home with me. I - have also a very good servant. He is an old soldier. I have just - returned from a ride to our old camp. There is a fine hard beach all - the way, which reminds me of the beach at Newport. My little horse - is very fleet, and carried me over the beach in very rapid style. - How would Hazard be delighted to see him stretch out! You must tell - my little Hazard about my horse. When I come home he shall ride him - every day. They would soon be fast friends, I doubt not. - - Have I told you that we are living in the government palace? At - first we took our meals at the public house, but so much dirt and - filth was to be met with everywhere that we formed a mess, and live - in our own rooms. Our mess is now reduced to four, Major Smith, - Captain Lee, Mason, and myself. There is a fine vegetable market - close by, where we can provide ourselves; and as for meats, we have - a barrel of hams. This morning I went to the market and observed - quite a variety of tropical fruits; tomatoes, sweet potatoes, - pineapples, plantains, lettuce, the Mexican squash, are in great - abundance. - - VERA CRUZ, April 11. - - MY DEAR FATHER,--We are now in the midst of our arrangements to - march into the interior, two divisions of the army (Twiggs and - Patterson) having already marched. The greatest difficulty is on - account of transportation. Vera Cruz is still healthy, and there is - no natural reason why it should not be as salubrious as New Orleans. - Its filth and nastiness is almost beyond belief, and is the - efficient cause of its great sickliness in summer. Our authorities - are now making every exertion to cleanse the city. Our troops behave - well. Some few excesses have been committed, and these are punished - with exemplary severity. General Scott has instituted military - commissions to try a large class of offenses that, in an enemy's - country, cannot be reached under the articles of war, and martial - law has been proclaimed as a supplemental code. Yesterday a negro - was hanged outside the city walls for committing rape upon a Mexican - woman. - - We hope that peace will be established in the course of the summer. - At all events, General Scott will find no difficulty in entering the - City of Mexico. Our own troops, regulars and volunteers, are in a - high state of discipline, and pant for an opportunity to signalize - themselves. The Mexican troops have been demoralized by many - successive defeats, and cannot, man to man, cope with our own. They - are decidedly inferior, both in the men and the organization. In - such cases numbers are of little account. All experience shows that - resolution, courage, and enterprise, qualities possessed by our - troops in an eminent degree, will overcome any tumultuous rabble. I - verily believe that our little army of twelve thousand men is able - to defeat any body of Mexicans, however large. - - You know the papers have been full of the complaints of the sappers - and miners, or engineer soldiers. These men I am on duty with every - day. They are the pride of the whole army, confessedly the best - soldiers in the army. I never saw so superior a company of soldiers, - Americans all, young men, having character, zeal, and intelligence, - proud of their duties and of their position, perfectly subordinate, - and cheerful in their obedience. I personally know almost every man - of the sappers and miners. During the investment and siege of Vera - Cruz they exhibited an extraordinary gallantry, and were all placed - in the position of non-commissioned officers. Each man had direction - of a working party, and in the execution of that duty they retained - their arms and gave directions to the men. - -[Illustration: ROUTE, VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO] - -Lieutenant Stevens took great interest in the engineer company, so -largely the result of his recommendations and exertions. His diary of -the march inland commences the next day. - - March 29. The army made its entrance into the city this day at ten - o'clock, and the general headquarters were established in the main - plaza. General Worth was appointed governor of the city. The - engineer company, although it had preëminently distinguished itself - for gallantry and general conduct throughout the whole operation of - the investment and siege, had no place assigned to it in the - ceremonies of either the surrender or the entrance. - - Colonel Totten sailed on the Princeton to the States as bearer of - dispatches, and with the view of resuming his position at the head - of the department, leaving Major John L. Smith in command. - Lieutenant Stevens was this day directed to assume the duties of - adjutant, and a sapper was detailed to assist him. - - March 30. Lieutenants Stevens, Tower, and Foster, with a detachment - of twelve sappers, commenced the survey of the defenses of the city - and castle. Lieutenant Mason was temporarily assigned to duty with - General Quitman on an expedition to Alvarado. - - Monday, April 12. The engineers left Vera Cruz with the general - staff at five P.M., and reached Vigara, three miles distant, where - they encamped for the night. Here a little stream flows into the - sea, over which is an arched bridge of masonry, somewhat out of - repair. - - I found myself exceedingly exhausted in consequence of my exertions - before leaving the city in getting wagons for the baggage and train - of the engineer company, and in attending to turning in the baggage - of the engineer staff. - - Tuesday, April 13. We started early, and found the road as far as - Santa Fé exceedingly sandy and difficult for carriages. Santa Fé is - situated in the midst of a prairie affording tolerable pasture for - cattle, and has the honor of municipal regulation in the shape of - an alcalde. There are some twenty little houses of trelliswork at - this place. At the river San Juan, six miles from Santa Fé and - twelve from Vigara, over which is thrown a fine bridge of masonry - with a long causeway at its western extremity, we halted and dined. - Before leaving, Worth's advance, consisting of Duncan's battery and - Lieutenant-Colonel C.F. Smith's light companies, reached the San - Juan, where they encamped for the night. Resuming our march at three - P.M., we pushed forward over at times a somewhat rough and hilly - road, and at other points easy and practicable, till we reached our - camping ground for the night, the Talome River, having a one-arch - bridge. - - Wednesday, April 14. Resuming our march early in the morning, we - reached the National Bridge at about ten A.M., distant eight miles - from our encampment, after making a halt of an hour at Paso de - Obejas (distant two and one half miles from Talome), where we met a - wagon train. There is a considerable village at this river. - - On leaving the village, the road winds its way to the top of a very - high hill, where there is an inspiring view of the surrounding - country. Whilst the general was halting at the village, I rode to - the top of the hill to take a view. At some distance to the south I - could see a small band of rancheros watching the movements of our - party. The National Bridge is a model of the kind, possessing much - architectural beauty, and impressing the mind of the beholder that - an iron and a lofty race had done this work in the solitudes of the - mountain pass. The scenery is of the most picturesque and imposing - character. The road, previous to reaching the bridge, winds round a - bold tongue of land, on the edge and apex of which a little fort had - been built. From the first view of the pass, the road descends the - side of a steep hill, constructed originally with great care, due - attention having been paid to both curves and grades. On passing the - bridge, on the left is a bold promontory, and the little fort and - the open village at the other extremity of the bridge. On the right - and downward side the river flows through a deep ravine, on either - side of which perpendicular columns of rock rise hundreds of feet. - The current gently flowed over a rocky bed, and was at points - fordable. A thunderstorm in this mountain pass, the swollen stream - rushing impetuously to the sea, must be terrific. After halting two - hours at the National Bridge, we pushed on to the Plano del Rio, the - advance of the army. This was a difficult march of thirteen miles, - with no water on the road for our horses. At some four miles from - the bridge we reached a causeway, built with care, and which, - leading over a little depression at its foot, is conducted almost to - the top of a hill on the other side. On our way we met parties from - camp searching the country for beef. - - We reached the Plano del Rio at about five o'clock, and after - remaining about an hour with Major Smith and Captain Lee, I - accompanied Lieutenant Tower on a reconnoissance. We proceeded on - the Jalapa road some three miles and a half, until we came in view - of Battery 4 on the left of the road. Then, returning a short - distance, we proceeded some distance on a path leading from the road - till we came in view of the same battery, and one farther to the - left, No. 3. From an examination of a sketch of Lieutenant Tower, - exhibiting the results of all the reconnoissances since the arrival - of General Twiggs, there could be little doubt that the proper mode - of attack was to the right, so as to turn the enemy's works and - compel them to lay down their arms. The reconnoissances were not, - however, complete, and the general, after informing himself of the - position as far as it had been ascertained, determined that the - reconnoissances should be extended. I found a bath in the river most - delightful and refreshing after the severe labors of the day. - - Thursday, April 15. The reconnoissances of the whole position were - continued to-day; Captain Lee, with Mason, Beauregard, and myself, - escorted by Major Sumner on the right, Tower on the front. On - reaching the point of the road before coming in view of Battery 4, I - was informed by Bowman, a wagon-master of Twiggs's division, that on - the other side of the river there was a practicable trail leading to - the river some eight miles above the bridge, and where would - probably be found a practicable ford. After accompanying Captain Lee - in his reconnoissance to a high hill about seven hundred yards from - the Cerro Gordo, the key of the enemy's position, and getting a full - view of it and of the ravines, valleys, etc., to the right, I - returned home with a guide, and reported the statement of Bowman to - Major Smith. He was then starting with an escort to examine the - enemy's works from the left bank of the river, with the view of - establishing enfilading batteries against them. I also accompanied - him; and after he had made his examinations, I requested permission - to continue farther up, with a portion of the escort, till I could - get a better view of the enemy's rear. A body of four hundred - cavalry having been observed only about four miles up the river - bank, Major Smith felt constrained to refuse my request. On - returning from the reconnoissance I explained very fully my general - views in reference to the proper mode of conducting the - reconnoissances of the position, and that though thus far particular - points had been carefully examined, and the engineer officers had - been very industrious, yet the reconnoissances had been undertaken - on too limited a scale, and did not cover the whole of the position. - The dragoons are admirable for extensive reconnoissances, yet no - attempt has been made to determine the practicability and even the - existence of certain routes, on both the right and left, which are - said to obtain; that branching from the Jalapa road, a little this - side of the National Bridge, joined it again a short distance before - reaching Jalapa. Either of these routes, pursued by Worth's column, - would have effectually turned the position of the Cerro Gordo. - Moreover, the reconnoissance on the right bank of the river had not - been extended so as to get a view of the rear of the Cerro Gordo; - and from the circumstance that four hundred lancers were on the - right river bank, and in position about four miles above the bridge, - the inference was almost conclusive that there was a practicable - ford leading to the position in rear of the Cerro Gordo, and which - the lancers were thrown out to cover. It was also suggested that a - spirited reconnoissance in that direction would settle two essential - questions, essential to properly combining the plan of attack,--1, - Whether there was not a practicable ford, by means of which the - enemy could escape, and at which point a column of attack might be - directed against him; 2, Whether the main body, or a considerable - portion thereof, might not be _en masse_ in rear of the position of - the Cerro Gordo hill, and thus not be cut off by the flank movement - to the right, unless extended to a wider circuit than was intended. - This reconnoissance was pressed earnestly as essential, to get - correct information in regard to the intentions and position of the - enemy. - - Friday, April 16. The reconnoissance I had recommended was ordered - by General Scott on the requisition of Major Smith, and fifty - dragoons, under the command of Lieutenant Steele, were placed at my - disposal. With Bowman as guide, we started about half past eight - o'clock, and, after crossing both branches of the river and - ascending to the ranch on the hill, we struck into a broad trail, - perfectly practicable for horses and field artillery, and after - pursuing our way some two and three quarter miles, came to a trail - nearly at right angles, and which Bowman represented as six miles - distant. Leaving the escort here with Steele, Bowman, and a beef - contractor, we continued in a direct course nearly a mile to some - ranches, where we took a man and boy to get information. On our - return we proceeded with the whole escort on the perpendicular trail - to another ranch, about half a mile distant, and finally to the - river supposed by Bowman to be the main stream. We found it simply a - tributary to the stream flowing under the first bridge, and the - descent to the ravine through which it flowed was scarcely - practicable for a mounted horseman. Leaving a small escort at the - ravine, the main body returning to the ranch, with Bowman I pushed - forward up the other side of the ravine, and proceeded about half a - mile, and nearly to the foot of a spur that led obliquely to the - main branch and in a direction a little beyond the Cerro Gordo. - After examining the routes and the configuration of the country, I - became satisfied that the reconnoissance could not be pushed farther - in this direction to any practicable result, but that the best - course would be to cross the spur at a depression and extend the - reconnoissance down the other side to the river. On my return to the - ranch, whilst proceeding at an easy pace, I found that an old - rupture which had been cured fifteen years had broken out, and - before I reached the ranch I began to suffer the most excruciating - pain. The further continuance of the reconnoissance was abandoned, - and I returned to camp, a distance of four miles, suffering very - great pain. First Dr. Brown attended me, and I was soon relieved of - pain by applying cold water. Dr. Tripler applied a very fine truss, - and in the course of the evening I felt perfectly comfortable. - [Illustration: BATTLE OF CERRO GORDO] - - Saturday, April 17. This day I remained in camp, able to move about - only a little and with great care. In the movement of General Twiggs - to his position in order of battle, he was discovered, and a - spirited combat ensued, which resulted in dislodging the enemy from - a hill seven hundred yards from the Cerro Gordo, and upon which a - battery of one 24-pounder and two 26-pounder howitzers was put in - position during the night. - - Sunday, April 18. As determined on yesterday, the position of the - enemy was attacked to-day and, after a most brilliant conflict, the - Cerro Gordo was stormed by the brigade of Colonel Harney, the - enemy's line of retreat on the Jalapa cut off by Shields's brigade - of volunteers and Riley's brigade of regulars. A large portion of - the enemy made their escape on the Jalapa road, and across the river - at the ford before alluded to. Pillow made an attack in front, but - failed in consequence of its being made prematurely, with great - precipitation, without order in the assaulting columns, and before - the supporting columns were in position, and at the wrong point, - viz., in a ravine swept by the fire of two batteries, and with - serious impediments in the way of abattis and felled trees. This - attack, both as to time and as to direction, was earnestly - remonstrated against by the engineer officer directing the attack, - by the personal staff of the general, and by Colonel Campbell, - second in command. Had the attack been made on the enemy's extreme - right, the true point of attack, and which was supposed to be the - point determined upon by the general until he announced a different - intention on arriving on the ground, it would have succeeded. It was - fortunate the attack failed. It kept the garrisons of the batteries - in their places and increased the number of prisoners. Shields - behaved most gallantly in his advance to the Jalapa road, and was - severely--supposed at the time mortally--wounded by a grapeshot - that passed through his body. His advance captured Santa Anna's - carriage. Worth's division was not engaged, acting simply as a - reserve. - - The storming of the Cerro Gordo was one of the most brilliant things - on record. Whilst it was in progress, four thousand of the enemy - were put in motion to turn their flanks, but the Cerro Gordo falling - into our hands before they became engaged, they took ignominiously - to flight. So certain was Harney that such would be the effect, when - two thousand troops were reported to him as threatening each flank, - he simply gave the order to extend to the right and left, and kept - pushing up, and after a sharp conflict drove the enemy from the - breastworks and down the hill. - - The retreat of the enemy was a perfect rout. A portion in small - bodies retreated on the Jalapa road. Many troops fled to the - chapparal, making their escape through almost impracticable paths. - Santa Anna himself made his escape with a few attendants across the - river and at the ford, whose existence was not verified till after - the battle in consequence of the serious injury that occurred to me, - preventing my extending the reconnoissance as I contemplated. - Ampudia with a few officers retreated on the Jalapa road, and very - nearly fell into our hands. - - Twiggs's division was pushed forward hotly in pursuit, and encamped - at Encerro, fourteen miles distant, the night of the battle, and - reached Jalapa the next day. He was closely followed by the - volunteer division, General Patterson assuming command of the whole. - - Worth returned to camp with the general and his staff. - - I was on my back a portion of the day, and was just able to drag - about camp. - - CAMP NEAR CERRO GORDO, Sunday, - April 15, 1847, 5 P.M. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--I have glorious news to tell you. This day we had - a hard-fought battle at this place, the first great mountain pass on - the highway from Vera Cruz to Mexico. The result is a most decisive - victory, resulting in the capture of six thousand Mexicans, and the - loss on our part of about three hundred killed and wounded. General - Twiggs is now in hot pursuit of Santa Anna, who was present in - command, and his remnant of five or six thousand men. He will, we - trust, enter Jalapa to-night, fifteen miles distant. His division of - somewhat less than three thousand men did the hard work, and will of - course have the highest award of praise. - - As for your poor husband, his was the part to stay in camp. Two days - since I conducted a reconnoissance on the left of the enemy's line - over very difficult ground, with fifty dragoons to support me. I - rode hard through the morning, and about three in the afternoon an - old rupture in the groin, which troubled me when a boy from ten to - fourteen years of age, broke out again after a perfect cure of - fifteen years. So excruciating was the pain that it required the - greatest exertion to get to camp, four miles distant, on my horse. - Fortunately one of the best physicians in the army, Dr. Tripler, was - able to attend upon me, and most fortunate of all he had a solitary - truss of the best workmanship, which just fitted me. Dr. Tripler has - prescribed the utmost quietude, has forbidden all excitement, and - especially all riding on horseback. I had already received the - appointment of adjutant of engineers, and my staff duties I can - still attend to. All my friends express great sympathy for my - misfortune. General Scott expressed himself in terms that won my - heart. He remarked, "You engineers are too daring. You require to be - held back. My young friend, I almost cried when I heard of your - mishap." I have made a great many friends since I joined the army. - It may be well that I have received this check. Ever since I joined - the army, I have been too impetuous, too headstrong. I have made - great physical exertion. Now I am obliged to rein in the power of - muscles, in which I do not excell, and have equal opportunities to - develop the mental as before I became incapacitated. I shall have - charge of the train of the engineers, which is carried in quite a - number of wagons, and shall therefore be always able to ride in a - wagon. My horse is one of the finest animals in the army, and is a - most fast, easy, and beautiful walker, and he will therefore be no - impediment to my riding on horseback. - - All my friends of the engineers did well. Captain Lee has won golden - opinions. Mason is rising rapidly in the esteem of all. He is one of - the most disinterested as well as one of the most talented men in - the army. If I have a perfectly devoted friend in the whole army, it - is Mason. He makes no professions; he is always true to himself and - his views of right, but I have his friendship and he has mine. My - old chum Tower did splendidly. He is a man of great powers of mind - and determined energy of character. He will probably be brevetted - for his services at this place and at Vera Cruz. - - To-morrow the whole army resumes its onward march. In one day we - shall enter Jalapa. General Scott is winning golden opinions. He is - prodigiously popular with the volunteers, and the whole army has - confidence in him. During the whole continuance of the battle to-day - he was much exposed. - - The movement which resulted in the great victory of to-day was to - the right and rear of the enemy, and the success of it hinged on the - taking of a little work on the top of an almost inaccessible hill. - The famous Colonel Harney of the dragoons led the forlorn hope in - the attack of this position, and was closely followed by the 3d and - 7th infantry. Up rushed our troops, amidst the most deafening cheers - from the whole line. Steadily advanced the stars and stripes to the - very Mexican standard floating from the Mexican work. For one moment - in the most difficult point our flag disappeared; again it rose, and - was immediately planted in triumph on the top of the hill. In four - weeks we shall most certainly be in the City of Mexico, unless - previously the Mexicans make overtures of peace. - - My dear wife, do not feel anxious for me. I have the means, and - shall take care of my health. My hopes of distinction have in a - measure vanished, but still I have the satisfaction that I can be - highly useful. My general health is very good. Remember me to Mary - and my dear children, to Judge Peabody, and all my friends. - - Your affectionate husband, - ISAAC. - - - - - CHAPTER IX - - JALAPA.--PUEBLA - - -Monday, April 19. This was a lazy day in camp, the general and his staff -being occupied with the charge of the prisoners, and preparing the -proper dispatches. It was determined to release all the prisoners and -officers on parole. Thus 2700 men (and 200 having escaped the previous -day whilst coming into camp, and before they had reached the charge of -General Worth) were sent, with rations to subsist them on their way -home, to and beyond Jalapa. La Vega, one of the prisoners, announced his -intention not to accept his parole, but to go to the United States. The -surgeons, moreover, were most actively engaged in caring for the -wounded. The wounds of the men generally were slight, and all the -disabled were cheerful and in high spirits. The wounds of the Mexicans -were bad, and many of their dead were shot in the head. General Shields, -to the surprise of all, still survived, was in excellent spirits, and -did not doubt that he would get well. - -At half past one the general-in-chief and his staff, with an escort of -dragoons, started for Jalapa, and passed the night at Encerro, the -residence of Santa Anna. Worth, who marched from the Plano del Rio in -the morning, reached Jalapa the same night. On the road I saw several -dead, disfigured with horrible wounds. I was obliged to ride in a wagon, -the surgeon having forbidden my riding on horseback. The country seat of -Santa Anna is delightfully situated in the midst of a rolling country, -abounding in herds of cattle, and all the fruits of both tropics. His -house is of two stories, the first being appropriated to kitchens, -store-rooms, etc., and the second to the family. Several rooms were well -furnished, and were garnished with paintings on historical subjects, for -the most part Mexican and Spanish. We saw several of his wooden legs. - -Tuesday, April 20. The general and staff reached Jalapa about eleven -A.M., after a most beautiful ride of eight miles. Along the road were to -be observed the Mexican troops in little groups of two or three, -accompanied by their women, of whom there were many at their camp at the -Cerro Gordo. I ventured to try my horse, and found for the time being -less inconvenience than in the wagon. The appearance of the country, -rolling and green, was very inviting. As we approached the city, the -rear of Worth's wagons was in the road, the men and mules almost -entirely exhausted by the long march of yesterday. Major Smith, in -consequence of injuries resulting from riding on horseback, was obliged -to ride, and accompanied Major Sumner (wounded in the conflict of the -17th inst.) in the carriage of Santa Anna. On reaching the city I had -the pleasure of meeting Captain Lee, Lieutenant Beauregard, and -Lieutenants Smith and McClellan of the engineer company, who were in the -advance with Twiggs. Quarters were assigned Major Smith and myself in -the governor's house, the headquarters of General Scott. - -The same afternoon General Worth was pushed forward in the advance, -Captain Lee, Lieutenants Mason and Tower, and the engineer company -accompanying him. It was reported that La Hoya and Perote had been -abandoned, and that a body of three or four thousand lancers was on the -route to Puebla. - -Wednesday, April 21. I was busily engaged to-day in organizing the -train of the engineer company, the mules having proved very poor on the -route from Plano del Rio, and many of the animals being entirely -unserviceable. On requisition from the senior engineer, the general -directed that a train of eight wagons should be furnished by the -quartermaster at Vera Cruz to bring up the engineer train that remained, -and as many of the engineer implements as practicable. Lieutenant -Foster, in the afternoon, with the engineer train that had come up from -the Plano del Rio, started to join his company at Perote. Sapper Noyes -went to Vera Cruz in the train of Friday morning to point out to the -quartermaster the articles that were needed. - -Thursday to Saturday, April 22-24. Nothing especial occurred on these -days. I have been principally engaged whilst at my leisure in going -about the town, observing the people and their customs. - -Sunday, April 25. This day I attended high mass in the cathedral. The -church was decorated considerably, though with little taste. There were -several figures of the Virgin Mary. The people seemed attentive to the -various ceremonies, and were scrupulous in observing the prescribed -forms. Not many of the higher classes were present. Some few elegant and -well-dressed ladies were to be seen. - -Monday to Thursday, April 26-29. During these days I have been -collecting facts in relation to the battle of Cerro Gordo, with the view -of making a general map and digesting a connected military narrative. In -consequence of all the officers, except Lieutenant Beauregard and -myself, having gone to Perote, there were no means of making an accurate -survey of the positions, or of getting sketches of the various -reconnoissances, to form a general plan. The only sketch forwarded from -Perote was one by Lieutenant Tower. I have met during these days -several old friends, particularly Tilden and Haskin. Canby I have seen -much of. - -April 30. This day I was busily occupied in preparing a memoir on the -proper mode of conducting the war, in case Mexico shall pursue the -guerrilla system, and obstinately refuse to listen to terms of -accommodation. I find great difficulty in procuring information as to -routes, etc. The weather in Jalapa is delightful. For the past four days -copious showers towards evening have exercised the most healthful and -invigorating influence upon the troops here. Since the arrival of -headquarters on Tuesday, April 20, there has been a remarkable -equableness of temperature. Jalapa is the very Eden of Mexico, and its -picturesque situation in the very bosom of the mountains is nowhere -surpassed. Such is the perfect amenity and smiling aspect of nature at -this favored spot, that all the seasons of the year meet together. All -the days of the year are both seedtime and harvest. The place is -singularly beautiful in its perennial bloom, and in the flowers and -gardens of its people. They seem to be a happy, easy race, and many of -the people are of refinement and intelligence. - -There are indications in the suburbs of Jalapa of more populousness and -wealth than now obtain, as in the wells of masonry to be seen, fifty -feet and more in depth, etc. The snowy peak of Orizaba, fifteen thousand -feet above the sea, is to be seen far above the clouds, which at times -hang over its base. - - JALAPA, Thursday, April 22, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--We entered this beautiful city, fragrant with - flowers and shrubbery, at eleven o'clock Tuesday morning. Jalapa and - the surrounding country is the Eden of Mexico. For many miles the - country is in the highest state of cultivation. There is a perennial - bloom. At this very moment all the fruits and every species of - vegetation are to be seen in all their stages. On the same tree are - seen blossoms and fruit. In the same field we observe grain and - corn just springing from the seed, and we see it ready for the - sickle. The market abounds in oranges, bananas, peppers, lettuce, - cabbages, cauliflower, onions, lemons, peas (green), beans, - tomatoes, etc. The refinement and cultivation of the people are to - be seen in their taste for flowers. At all points the most beautiful - flowers strike your eye. All the houses of the lower classes, as - well as of the higher, have gardens of flowers in rear. As you pass - through the street you every moment get glimpses of fountains and - shrubbery. Jalapa is more than Capua of old. It is Capua with all - its beauty and serenity, but without its _abandon_. The people are - refined, courteous, intelligent, and upright. Here we shall remain - for some ten days or a fortnight, to organize the campaign, and - prepare for the march to Mexico. Jalapa will be the great base of - operations. - - We left the Plano del Rio on Monday. I rode on a wagon, and reached - Encerro, the hacienda of Santa Anna, a distance of fourteen miles, - the same evening. The general and his staff passed the night here. - It is beautifully situated on a commanding hill, with ample - outbuildings, an artificial pond for bathing, etc., and a paved road - branching from the main Jalapa road. The hacienda of two stories was - elegantly furnished on the second floor, the first floor being - appropriated to kitchens, store-rooms, etc. We saw several of Santa - Anna's wooden legs. General Scott gave us in the evening a nice - supper with wine. - - I rode on Tuesday from Encerro to Jalapa on my horse, and found it - about as comfortable as a wagon. The distance was about eight miles. - The morning was beautiful and the scenery enchanting. On reaching - the city we found some seven or eight thousand of our troops under - arms. For the first time since Cortez the hostile feet of a foreign - race trod its pavements. The most perfect tranquillity prevailed. - The people are well treated, receive good prices for all they wish - to sell, and do not feel the weight of a foreign yoke. - - Last evening we received intelligence that General Taylor entered - the city of San Luis Potosi on the 13th of this month. Well done, - indomitable old hero! It is somewhat doubtful whether I shall go on - with the army. The surgeon advises me to remain here for the - present. With care he thinks I may rely on a permanent cure. Care, - however, is required. - - JALAPA, May 1, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--I am glad to be able to assure you that my health - is improving. It is not yet safe for me to ride my horse, and I - think that my ride from Encerro, the country seat of Santa Anna, to - Jalapa put me back some days. I can walk without any inconvenience - by being careful as to my gait, and avoiding all sudden steps. I am - not in the least incapacitated for office duty, and am, excepting my - injury, in very vigorous health. It is hard, I assure you, in this - beautiful region to be detained from enjoying my fine horse. As it - is, he stands in the stable doing nothing. On Monday, May 3, I shall - move on with General Patterson's advance, in charge of the engineer - train, to join the engineer corps with Worth. - - The brilliant conflict of Cerro Gordo came upon the Mexicans like a - thunderbolt, and is the most decisive blow of the war. The road is - free to the City of Mexico, and I have no doubt General Scott will - be there in six weeks. It is said the Mexicans will resort to the - guerrilla mode of warfare. It will be found worse than useless. It - will be found of assistance to our arms. General Scott will enforce - the strictest discipline, and the people of the country will remain - undisturbed in their houses. A fair price will be paid for - everything that is consumed. The war will be made to bear with a - heavy hand upon all connected with the government, and upon the - property of all disaffected persons. Don't feel alarmed about the - observation in the papers in reference to the terrible and atrocious - character of guerrilla warfare. No one here feels the least alarm. - Twelve resolute men can disperse a hundred rancheros. As guerrilla - troops our volunteers are infinitely superior to the Mexicans. The - Mexicans as guerrilla troops are poor. They are generally very - inferior troops. They are best behind breastworks, yet our men find - no difficulty in storming them. - - You may be sure that this city is a most charming place. We do not - find the upper classes disposed to associate with us. Jalapa is said - to be one of the most exclusive places in Mexico, the society being - broken up into cliques, and families living among themselves as in - New Bedford. The upper classes are indeed said to be very hostile - to us. We are now about building a battery to overawe the city, - where a ten-inch mortar will be mounted. The terrible destruction at - Vera Cruz from our shells has been spread over all Mexico, and with - all the exaggeration of the Spanish character. All the cities have - the greatest fear of our shells. - - The last few days I have been busily occupied in preparing a - narrative of the brilliant conflict of the Cerro Gordo, illustrated - with a sketch, and for the Engineer Department at Washington, and - also in writing a memoir on the best mode of opposing the guerrilla - warfare. The latter I have done chiefly for my own instruction. It - is possible, if I can finish it to my mind, I may have it published. - I have some thoughts of sending it to General Scott at once. The - general, however, is a very great talker and writer himself, and I - doubt whether he could find time to read the memoir. - - Sunday, May 2. The train does not go till to-morrow, so I can tell - you something of the occurrences of this day. Sunday is the great - market day of Jalapa, and this morning I saw the greatest profusion - of vegetables, watermelons in abundance, the finest oranges, - bananas, plantains, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, celery, beans, - peas, squashes, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, green - corn, rare-ripe onions, tomatoes. The onions are the finest I ever - saw. They are far superior to our own. Many well-dressed ladies were - to be seen in the market with their servants. I went to the - cathedral, but remained only a short time. - - I consulted to-day Dr. Wright, the hospital surgeon of Jalapa, in - reference to my difficulty, and he speaks in the most encouraging - manner. He says there is no objection to my riding a portion of the - distance on horseback, and that with care there is not the least - danger in advancing with the army. - - May 3. In the expectation that the march would take place to-morrow, - I was busily engaged preparing for my departure. The sappers - remaining in this place made all their arrangements, and the - engineer train of eight wagons was put in perfect order, a wagon - master and two extra men having been provided for. General - Patterson's advance brigade, that would serve as our escort, was - the brigade of Quitman. In the evening, about eight o'clock, an - express came up from Vera Cruz. - - May 4. I rose early, having decided to start at half past six - o'clock. Some delays occurred, and when in readiness to start, at - half past seven, I was informed that the order to march had been - countermanded. Consequently everything was put back in its place. - - About eleven A.M. Carigan, a sick sapper, died at the hospital. He - had been sick almost from the first day he came into the country. - His case was not considered incurable at Vera Cruz, but the journey - to Jalapa, riding in a wagon over a rough road, proved too much for - his strength. He was buried in the afternoon in a convent - churchyard, his remains having been accompanied by myself and five - sappers. When his body was lowered into its final resting-place, I - made a few remarks on the peculiar circumstances of his case, - dwelling upon the fact that his short service had not been in vain, - and that he had served his country, and as much died for his country - as though he had fallen at Vera Cruz or at Cerro Gordo. Sergeant - Clark and A.M. Noyes, on my calling on them, made a few very - appropriate remarks in reference to his case, and bore cheerful - testimony to his excellent character and the esteem in which he was - held by his associates. Regan, a sapper who had enlisted with him, - and who had known him for a long time, was a most sincere mourner. - He seemed to reproach himself as the cause of Carigan's death, in - consequence of his own example having been the cause of Carigan's - enlistment. I stated to Regan that he had no cause to reproach - himself, and that in writing to Carigan's friends he could dwell - upon the circumstances of Carigan's having received every attention, - and finally having been buried in one of the most beautiful regions - of the earth, and in ground consecrated by the religious solemnities - of his faith. - - May 5. There are reports that Santa Anna intends cutting off the - large train coming from Vera Cruz in a few days, in consequence of - which Captain Bainbridge with a battalion of infantry proceeded - downward yesterday, to be followed by Colonel Riley and a portion of - his brigade to-morrow, the whole to take a position at the National - Bridge. I now hold myself in readiness to move forward at any - moment. But in the present aspect of affairs, three regiments of - volunteers returning home, much sickness amongst the troops, and no - certainty as to the arrival of new levies, it is not certain that it - will be possible to move beyond Puebla. - - May 7. Left Jalapa this morning at 7.30 in charge of the second - section of the engineer train, to join the advance of General Worth, - and under the escort of General Quitman's brigade, to whom I - reported on my arrival at his encampment. He did not get under way - till towards noon, and, after marching two hours through a - cultivated and beautiful country, we reached the village of El - Soldado, about eight miles from Jalapa. After halting an hour at - this place the command pursued its march through a most picturesque - and beautiful country, presenting at the different points a varied - view of the valley, dotted all over with villages, and with fields - of corn and barley, and parties of laborers by the roadside - peacefully pursuing the cultivation of the soil. At La Hoya, - defended with some care at a pass between two high hills, with a - succession of barriers in the road, two arranged with a single - embrasure for guns, was to be seen the apple-tree in blossom, and - also the pine-tree. We halted at Las Vegas for the night, the road - hither ascending all the way, and the character of the trees rapidly - changing to the fir, the black birch, and the mountain oak. Las - Vegas is a somewhat straggling village of perhaps about two thousand - people, situated in a depression or valley in the hills, which to - the northeast expand into a most fertile and agreeable plain, highly - cultivated along the west side. Most inviting fields of barley and - corn had remained untouched, though the horses of our troops had - subsisted on the former. Jalapa to El Soldado, seven miles; to La - Hoya, three miles (large); to tank on left, nine miles; to Las - Vegas, three miles; Jalapa to Las Vegas, twenty-two miles. - - May 8. Left Las Vegas about eight A.M. and reached Perote about - twelve P.M., a distance of ten miles, or about. This route for the - first three miles is quite rough and uneven. At the end of the third - mile is a very long and difficult descent, at the foot of which is a - beautiful stream of ice-cold water, flowing directly from the Coffre - de Perote. Here the whole command were refreshed. After ascending a - considerable hill we again, after a gentle descent, gained a little - village at another, quite sluggish stream about a mile from the Rio - Frio. A slight ascent brought us to the extended plain of Perote, - ten or twelve miles in width and extending generally in a westerly - direction as far as El Pinal. Perote, with its castle in the middle - of the plain and towards its eastern extremity, was almost - depopulated, and presented a very uninviting appearance. General - Worth had collected here large stores of forage and flour, much - rice, and some sugar and coffee. On reporting to General Worth, and - stating my object (to join Captain Lee), I was directed to attach - myself to Colonel Clarke's brigade, the last battalion of which was - to march at seven A.M. on the 9th. I found Mason quite sick, and - doubtful as to his ability to move on. Though somewhat fatigued with - my day's march, I suffered no inconvenience from my rupture, though - the entire distance from Jalapa was made on horseback. - - May 9. I left Perote this morning with Colonel Clarke at seven A.M., - and arrived at San Antonio, a distance of seven miles, about - eleven. A slight halt was made three miles from Perote. At one - o'clock, after resting the mules, I proceeded with the train to Tepe - Ahualco, which I reached after a distance of nine miles. Here I - found the engineer company, and Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower of - the engineers. Captain Lee, unfortunately, was suffering from chills - and fever. - - May 10. The brigade of Colonel Garland, with General Worth and - staff, left Tepe Ahualco (a very mean village, with bad water) at - eight o'clock, and after a march of ten miles through the plain - reached the hacienda of Vireyes, where we encamped for the night. - This hacienda, like most of the haciendas of the country, was a good - substantial building on the four sides of a square, and arranged - with reference to the defense of the interior space. The peons lived - in mean habitations of mud and trellis-work, not equal to the - dwellings of swine in New England. - - May 11. The march commenced at seven A.M., and after two halts,--one - of about half an hour at Byzantium, distant eight miles, a village - having its cathedral, one or two stores with pulque for sale, and - pretty good houses for the peons; one of about two hours at Ojo de - Agua, distant ten miles, a village not so considerable as the - former, but noted for its clear water gushing in quite a large - stream from the roadside,--we reached the hacienda Santa Annaced as - a violent windstorm came on. Large stacks of barley straw in front - of the hacienda afforded sustenance for many domestic animals. As we - approached the village of Byzantium, a gently ascending and somewhat - considerable hill on the left, cultivated to its very top with the - maguey plant, and the green grass of the flowing stream at the base - relieved the dryness of the plain, and afforded a most pleasing - prospect. The road on the 10th and 11th was level; and for the most - part good. Distance this day, about twelve miles. - - May 12. The march commenced at six A.M., the rear brigade of Colonel - Clarke joining the advance brigade of Colonel Garland in its first - movement, its encampment having been only two miles in rear. After - proceeding some miles we entered Nopalucan, a considerable town of - three churches, several fondas, and some substantial houses. The - padre furnished the general and his officers an entertainment of - spirits and cakes. The best people had shut up their houses and left - the place. Before approaching Nopalucan, the road for some two miles - passes through a highly cultivated tract of country, with some dozen - haciendas on the right and left. An elevation on entering this tract - affords a very charming prospect. - - After remaining two hours at Nopalucan the division moved forward, - over in some portions a rough road, and encamped for the night one - league this side of the Pass of El Pinal. - - May 13. At Nopalucan information was given that Santa Anna, with - some fifteen hundred or two thousand lancers, had passed through - that place on the 10th for Puebla, and at the camp of the 12th and - 13th there were rumors that he had prepared mines in the road at El - Pinal. In consequence the engineer company, Duncan's battery, and - some other troops moved early to examine the pass. A false alarm - during the night left many of the troops much harassed. El Pinal is - no pass whatever, and the mines, of which rumor was so big, were - little excavations commenced under the road in two places, but - abandoned. El Pinal derives its name from the pine-trees, which are - found to the very top of the mountains. At this point the road - commences a rapid descent, and soon brings us to Acajete, a smaller - place than Nopalucan, yet having its church and its fonda. Here the - alcalde provided a collation for the general and his officers. - After halting an hour and a half, we moved forward, and reached - Amasoque about two o'clock. This is a village having a large public - square and three fine churches. It is larger than Nopalucan, and - must contain nearly four thousand inhabitants. - - It was determined to remain at Amasoque one entire day to enable - General Quitman's command to come up, and accordingly General - Worth's division was in expectation of a day's rest, but about nine - o'clock. - - May 14, word was brought that five thousand lancers were marching - down upon us. A reconnoissance by Captain Lee reduced the numbers to - less than two thousand, and the movement seemed to look to the - cutting of our communication with Quitman's column. It was so illy - concerted that seventy shots from Duncan's battery and a few from - Steptoe's turned the enemy from their apparent purpose, and caused - them to turn to their left and make good their retreat. A column of - about six hundred, however, continued their course, veering a little - to the left to keep out of the reach of Quitman, who, on hearing our - guns, hastened the march of his troops, and effected a junction with - Worth with great celerity. This column was followed by myself, - Lieutenant McClellan, and three dragoons as far as the hacienda San - Miguel, some five miles from Amasoque. On the way thither we crossed - a very deep arroyo, along a very good though very steep mule-path. - At the hacienda, having ascertained from the people and from their - trail that the column had continued their eccentric course, we - returned in a somewhat different direction, and having crossed an - arroyo by an almost impracticable path, and fallen on and nearly - captured a Mexican officer and his servant, we came to where the - arroyos met, and were obliged to retrace our steps. We reached - headquarters about three o'clock. I was exceedingly exhausted by my - exertions. Lieutenant McClellan was very gallant and prompt in - pursuing the Mexican, and lost him in consequence of the chapparal. - A pony that was led by the servant was given to the men. - - NOTE. The occurrences of this day show two things: 1st. Troops - should be quartered or encamped in reference to the attack of an - enemy, and the site should always be determined by officers of - engineers. - - 2d. On the arrival of troops at the place of encampment, an - examination should be made to determine the principal circumstances - in reference to the roads and the general features of the topography - of the country, so that, in case of an attack or demonstration, we - should have the necessary information to strike a vigorous blow at - the enemy, and push him into a precipitate retreat. At Amasoque - nothing was known in the morning in reference to the roads of the - village itself leading to the direction where the enemy was known to - be, until the reconnoissance was made after the presence of the - enemy was reported. Still less was anything known in regard to the - existence of the arroyos, which cut up the surface of the plain, and - rendered it entirely impracticable for cavalry and artillery to - operate, till the crossings (used by the people of the country and - known by their troops) were carefully ascertained. During the whole - march from Tepe Ahualco, these things had been entirely _neglected_. - - Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower made a reconnoissance of the - country towards Puebla, and discovered that the main body of the - enemy had retrograded to a village some eight miles from and off the - main road to Puebla. Colonel Garland's brigade was pushed forward - about two miles and bivouacked for the night. The troops were - ordered to march, first at nine P.M., then at three A.M., and - finally at five A.M., in order to concentrate near Puebla in the - course of the morning. In consequence of these continual changes, - the troops were exceedingly and needlessly harassed. - - May 15. The army moved at five A.M., and at a village three miles - from Amasoque, commissioners were found in waiting to treat for the - occupation of the city. The assurances of the general were - satisfactory to them. They were simply a recognition that Puebla - should be no exception to the general course our army has pursued in - this country as regards the inviolability of the rights, persons, - religion, and authority of the city, so far as not incompatible with - its military occupation. The troops in the course of the day were - all got into quarters, although it was accomplished in a very - undignified manner, the general, at the head of his staff, - personally superintending the breaking open of the doors of the - barracks whenever they were not opened by the keys in season to - satisfy his impatient spirit. - - May 16-22. The army continued in the peaceful occupation of Puebla, - and nothing occurred to disturb the general tranquillity except two - or three cases of broils, occasioned by the imprudence of our own - people, and one report of the march of Santa Anna to attack the - city. Some changes were made in the distribution of troops, much - attention paid to the rumors of the streets, and no general system - of measures adopted in relation to the defenses of the city, or to - the dispositions to be made in case of the attack of an enemy. The - people were decidedly hostile to Santa Anna, and our respect for - their rights was making a decided change in our favor. On the 20th - and 21st the city was rife with rumors of the approach of General - Taylor to San Luis Potosi, and at length it was said that General - Taylor had been taken prisoner and hanged. Information came on the - 21st that General Scott was still at Jalapa, and would not leave - till the 23d. - - May 23, 24. Affairs continue tranquil. Information has come that - General Twiggs left Jalapa Saturday, May 22, and was followed by - General Scott on Sunday. My own health is improving very rapidly, - and on the 24th I reported to Captain Lee my readiness for duty. - - May 25. Engaged on a reconnoissance of the road to Tlascala. There - are two roads, one for carriages and one for mules, which continue - separate the whole distance to Tlascala. This reconnoissance - occupied seven hours, and was supported by twelve sappers. - - May 26. Accompanied Captain Lee and Lieutenants Mason and Tower in - an examination of the hill and the adjacent parts of the city, to - determine a position for our troops in case of the attack of the - enemy. The occupation of the hill, the Cuartel San José, and some - buildings on the right and left, fulfilled the conditions quite - well. It commanded the city, and the approaches to it in the - direction of the hill afforded room for stores, wagons, and animals. - This examination was suggested to General Worth by Captain Lee on - the first occupation of the city, but was deferred in consequence of - press of business, and was ordered to-day in consequence of a report - that a strong force of the enemy was marching upon the city from - Mexico. - - May 27. A fatigue party with some sappers, and all under the - direction of Lieutenant Smith, were employed to-day in repairing the - parapet of Fort Guadalupe, on the summit of the hill. The engineer - officers were engaged generally in examining roads entering the - city, and plotting the same. - - May 28. General Scott and staff arrived to-day. Engineers employed - as yesterday. - - May 29. General Twiggs arrived with his division to-day at three - P.M., and at one o'clock the long roll beat in consequence of a - report of the approach of the enemy, twenty thousand strong. This - proved to be unfounded. - - May 30, 31. The only occurrence of interest is Santa Anna's solemn - renunciation of power, and return to private life. He declares in - his manifest that he has labored with a single eye to the good of - his country, and can review with satisfaction and without reproach - his whole public career. I cannot but entertain the opinion that - Santa Anna's renouncing all authority is in consequence of a fixed - determination on his part to be "Aut Cæsar aut nihil." It may be the - deliberate act of a great statesman and patriot, more firmly to - maintain the authority necessary to save his country. He may act - from the conviction that his country, seeing that he would not - continue in authority in this crisis unless he were cordially - supported by all parties, would with one voice recall him to public - life and invest him with full powers. So far as I am able to judge, - Santa Anna's career, since his return to Mexico, has been most - glorious and remarkable. Without resources, and in the midst of - internal discord, he has organized two large armies, and made one of - the most extraordinary marches in all history. He has been defeated, - but throughout has shown an admirable constancy, and exhibited high - military qualities. In strategic operations he has shown marked - ability. At Buena Vista he came within an ace of utterly defeating - General Taylor, and had he succeeded (and the probabilities were in - his favor), he would have been able to excite to the highest pitch - of enthusiasm the whole nation. A large army might have been raised, - and our advance into the interior effectually checked. On the field - of battle he has not proved equal to us. But it is probably due to - the nature of his troops, who in the shock of the conflict are - inferior to us, three or four to one. At Angostura, and at the Cerro - Gordo, he exhibited courage and an indefatigable spirit. He did not - leave the height of the Cerro Gordo till the very moment of its - falling into our hands, and he was obliged to make his escape on one - of the wheel mules of his carriage. Nor were his spirits depressed - by this overwhelming defeat. He immediately rallied his troops at - Orizaba, a strategic position in reference to the whole route of - Jalapa from Vera Cruz to Puebla. Here he was able to threaten our - lines of communication, and, without moving a step, he compelled us - to protect our trains with large escorts as they came up from Vera - Cruz to Jalapa. When nearly a whole brigade (Riley's) was sent down - to protect the large train supposed to be the last of five hundred - wagons, and it became evident that nothing more would be gained in - this direction, he anticipated our advance, and threw himself - between us and the City of Mexico. He has now renounced all - authority. We must wait until his real object in taking this great - step shall have become developed. - - June 3. We have rumors to-day that a reinforcement of 3000 men has - landed at Antigua, and is on the march to Jalapa. It has been - determined to break up Jalapa, place the sick in hospital in Perote, - and bring up the whole disposable force to Puebla. At Perote and - Jalapa are 800 sick and 1700 men in garrison. Leaving a garrison of - 400 men in Perote, the remaining 1300 men, with 900 recruits, will - increase the troops now at Puebla, 6000 effectives including - officers (there are 700 sick), to 8200; of the 900 recruits, at - least 200 will be left behind sick. So that 8000 men will be the - extent of our force. We shall probably remain in Puebla till about - the 1st of July, and then advance to the city with our whole force. - - I write this evening to my wife by a train going down to-morrow. It - is doubtful whether the letter will reach the States. - - This is Corpus Christi Day. I attended church in the morning, and - was anything but pleased with the idle ceremonies of the occasion. - The Catholicism of this country is a great corruption of that of the - United States. It is chiefly a religion of observances, and of the - most burdensome and elaborate kind. Excepting human sacrifices, it - is on a par with the religion of the Aztecs. - - A bull-fight having been advertised, I attended it with many other - officers, but the performance was a very tame one. The bulls were - barbarously butchered after having been lassoed and thrown down. - Every one returned home disgusted. - - June 4. The news from Mexico to-day is less favorable to peace. The - congress, it is said, has refused to accept the resignation of Santa - Anna, and the latter has left Mexico to take command of the troops. - The landing of Cadwallader with three thousand troops has been - confirmed. Half a million of money is also on its way. Everything - bears a favorable aspect now. The arrival of funds is of great - consequence, in order that no necessity may arise to live by forced - contributions. We ought to apply to the support of the war the - revenues that formerly went to the central government, but in our - dealings with individuals scrupulously to pay for every supply and - service. To-day I was employed on the journal of last month. The - officers were generally employed on the drawings. - - June 6. A mail arrived to-day with cheering news from the States. - The government was exerting its energies to increase both columns of - invasion, and, from the success which had already attended the - recruiting service, there was little doubt that in the course of the - season there would be thirty thousand troops in the field. Six - regiments of volunteers for the war were also to be called out. - - June 7-21. The army has continued recruiting its strength and - awaiting reinforcements. Daily drills in companies, battalions, - brigades, and divisions have tended to give tone and efficiency to - the command, though a counteracting influence has been found in the - troops not being paid. Great discontent exists in consequence of - this. Many of the troops are quartered in damp basements, and all - live on fresh provisions, prolific causes of disease. The sickness - has been as high as twenty-five per cent. of the whole number - present, and even at this time is not much below this. In some - regiments the company officers do not attend to their men, and - particularly to their food. The use of the chili, or Mexican pepper, - supplies the place of salt, and contributes essentially to the - health of the troops. - - There have been occasional rumors of rising in the city, to be - assisted by guerrillas. A small force is with the governor at - Athsio, and all the roads are infested to some extent by this - description of troops. There have been several attempts to induce - our men to desert, and now a German is being tried for the offense, - and will probably be put to death. - - The engineers have been employed in drawing a map of the city and - its environs, completing the drawings of the siege of Vera Cruz, and - collecting information in relation to the roads and localities in - the valley of Mexico. - - The general-in-chief reached Puebla on the 28th, and on the - following day all the engineer officers and the engineer company - were relieved from duty with particular divisions, and placed under - the direction of the senior engineer at general headquarters. - General Twiggs arrived with his division on the 29th of June. - - Information was derived from Americans, residents of the City of - Mexico, who joined the army as it penetrated into the country, and - from Mexicans (robbers and contrabandists), etc. In consequence of - these inquiries, Captain Lee was enabled to prepare a map of all the - routes from Puebla to the City of Mexico and in its valley, and - exhibiting generally the topography of the country, its hills, - rivers, marshes, etc. Much information was also obtained in - reference to the fixed means of defense of the enemy,--particularly - the position and character of field-works and batteries, and the - character of the obstructions from cuts in the causeways of approach - to the city, and from inundations from the lakes. In the - investigation of this matter, one circumstance transpired affording - convincing proof that no difficulty would be found to bribe men of - rank and influence. A merchant of Puebla, of some wealth, extensive - connection, and large practical knowledge of localities in all parts - of Mexico, for the sum of five thousand dollars proposed going to - the City of Mexico and procuring accurate information in reference - to the roads and localities in the valley of Mexico, the fixed means - of defense of the enemy, the force, composition, distribution, and - _morale_ of the troops, the state of public feeling in the city, - etc. He professed a sufficient acquaintance with military matters to - furnish the information with entire fullness and accuracy. Nor did - he ask the least compensation for his services till the information - furnished should be pronounced perfectly satisfactory. This - proposition was finally declined by General Scott. - - It having been ascertained that Dominguez, the chief of the robbers - from Vera Cruz to Mexico and a resident of Puebla, was willing to - enter into the American service with at least a portion of the - robbers, Major Smith proposed to the general-in-chief that they - should be received, and employed as spies, guides, and couriers. - This suggestion met with his approbation, and the inspector-general, - Colonel Hitchcock, was associated with Major Smith in arranging a - proper organization. Thus far the robbers have proved useful as - spies and couriers. - - General Cadwallader is known to be on his way from Perote, and will - probably reach Puebla with his command to-day or to-morrow. It is to - be feared that the large number of sick will render it necessary to - leave a garrison in Puebla, reducing, if the advance to Mexico - obtain within ten days, the efficient fighting force to six thousand - men. - - June 22-24. Information reached General Scott on the evening of the - 23d that General Cadwallader was at Perote, and that he would leave - next day and reach Puebla on Monday, the 29th. He met with serious - resistance between Jalapa and Perote, particularly at the Pass of La - Hoya. The 24th was St. John's Day, and was celebrated generally - throughout the city. Some patriotic feeling was exhibited in the - military dresses and flags of the boys. The engineer company - obtained authority to change their quarters to the convent San - Antonio. The subject of an engineer drill was under discussion by - Lieutenants Mason, Stevens, and G.W. Smith, and it was decided that - the manual of the miner should be translated. On the 24th I - submitted to Major Smith a brief memoir on a system of espionage, - and involving the employment of the robbers of the country. - - June 25-28. During these days information has reached headquarters - of the landing of General Pillow at Vera Cruz, and of his order to - General Cadwallader to await his arrival in Perote. The whole - command, probably amounting to five thousand men, will arrive as - early as the 5th of July. - - Rumors for several days have been rife in Puebla of negotiations for - a treaty of peace being commenced. Several messengers are known to - have arrived from Mexico, and the Mexican president has been - notified by General Scott that a commissioner with powers to treat - has arrived from the United States. I see no indication of the least - disposition to treat on the part of the Mexican nation, and nothing - can stay the advance of our army to the valley of Mexico. Even then, - in consequence of the rainy season and the smallness of our force, - we shall restrict ourselves to the narrowest limits; but a small - portion of the heart of the country will feel our presence, and the - spirit of the people will not be subdued. They will flatter - themselves with the hope of soon driving from their capital and - their soil the _infamous invader_. New armies will be raised, and we - again in the fall obliged to take the field. North to Zacatecas let - our arms extend! - - July 1. The Mexican congress, agreeably to the proclamation of the - president, assembled on the 28th of June, but, wanting five of a - quorum, adjourned to the 5th of July, the special subject of their - consideration being the appointing of commissioners to treat of - peace. Pillow reached Perote yesterday (probably), and will probably - be in Puebla on the 7th or 8th inst. It is also supposed that Pierce - has arrived in Vera Cruz with additional troops. It is a doubtful - matter whether the Mexican congress will take a decided course in - initiating negotiations, or whether the commissioners whom they - appoint will agree upon the terms. I have every confidence that - General Scott, whilst showing every disposition to respond to any - desire for peace which the Mexican nation may express, and exerting - his whole strength to accomplish that great object, will not permit - it to be made a pretext to gain time, and a cover to the complete - organization of the enemy's force. The enemy may treat at this time. - They stickle on points of honor, and will have the greatest - repugnance to the occupation of their capital. They see our force - daily increasing. They have felt our prowess at the Cerro Gordo. - They know we desire peace. Our terms are not hard. If we advance - and enter the City of Mexico, their government will be in a measure - dissolved, and the favorable moment for negotiations have gone. All - these considerations must incline the candid and intelligent portion - of the nation to arrange all matters in dispute before we advance - from Puebla. Yet the Castilian obstinacy and pride may overrule all - these considerations, and determine them to try the issue of a - protracted contest. It is possible they may consider our terms, if - agreed to, as the step fatal and inevitable towards the final - occupation of the whole country, and, considering the present - conflict as one for national independence, they may conclude to - fight as long as a man remains to bear arms. For one, I cannot but - consider the issue doubtful, and am inclined to the belief that - nothing will come from the present movement, and that we shall - advance to and enter the City of Mexico. - - July 4. The anniversary of our national independence has dawned upon - the Americans in Puebla most auspiciously. News came last evening - that General Pierce, with two thousand men, left Vera Cruz on June - 28, and that in a week he would be followed by six thousand more - troops. If this be true, we shall be able to launch a column of - fifteen thousand men against the capital. It must fall into our - hands with but little resistance. The rainy season should be devoted - to the disciplining and reorganization of the whole army, new levies - and old troops. Thus in October, based in the valley of Mexico, we - shall be in condition to move in any direction, and doubtless, - northward, our columns will march as far as Zacatecas, unless - previously peace be agreed upon. - - A war fever has broken out afresh in the capital, and energetic - measures are being taken to add to their means of defense. Church - bells are being cast into cannon, and field-works and fortifications - put in good condition. - - The engineer staff called on the general officers in the morning and - dined together afterwards. We passed a pleasant day. - - July 6. A courier came in this morning with information that El - Pinal was occupied by a guerrilla force of one thousand men, and - that the train had been at Ojo de Agua two days, resting from the - fatigues of the march from Perote. The roads were bad, and many of - the teams had given out. Colonel Harney, with a force of seven - hundred men and a relief train of forty wagons, started at eight - o'clock, - - July 7, to disperse the assemblage at El Pinal, and meet the exposed - train at Nopalucan. The troops still continue sick. About noon the - arrival of General Pillow at Amasoque was announced; about five - o'clock the dragoons arrived, bringing with them the long-expected - mail. - - July 8. The troops reached Puebla about noon to-day, and as they - passed General Scott in review, they made a sorry appearance. In - some respects composed of good material, they have come in all haste - to the seat of war without a single day's drill, and after a march - of one hundred and sixty-one miles it is not surprising they were - much worn down. The day in the city was by all devoted to reading - letters and papers. I had the extreme felicity of getting five - letters from my dear wife, announcing her comfortable settlement for - the season in Newport. In a distant land, the pleasure of receiving - intelligence from our dear friends at home is above and beyond all - other pleasures. My latest dates were to the 31st of May. - - July 9. A general order of to-day assigned Pillow to the command of - the third regular division, composed of Cadwallader's and Pierce's - brigades, General Quitman continuing in command of the volunteer - division till it shall become practicable to join his proper regular - division with General Taylor. General Shields was assigned to the - command of the volunteer brigade now in Puebla. We learned to-day - that there was a movement to the north against Santa Anna in which - eight states joined. The prospect of peace is very small. - - July 10. News from Mexico more unfavorable to peace. Congress wants - eleven of a quorum. There are now eighteen thousand troops in the - valley of Mexico, provided with arms and sixty pieces of cannon. - Four thousand troops from San Luis Potosi are said to be daily - expected. All the causeways are armed with cannon, protected by - field-works with wet ditches. Important advantages will result from - deferring the advance to Mexico till the close of the rainy season. - Time will be gained to put the new levies in shape, instructing both - officers and men in their duty, and making them more reliable before - an enemy. The large number of sick will be much reduced, and - sickness will be prevented by the march in dry weather. - Reinforcements will come up. The disposition of the Mexicans for - peace will be thoroughly tested, and ulterior operations after - conquering the city and valley can be arranged. The war can be - vigorously pushed in the dry season, with ample supplies of - transportation. The new levies are utterly unreliable, and the main - dependence is in the old troops, scarcely six thousand effective - men. Not the least doubt is felt at our ability at this time to - enter the capital, and it is not to be disguised that every day's - delay increases the strength of the enemy's force and affords the - means to perfect his works. I believe, however, that our own - strength will increase in a greater ratio. The dry season will give - important advantages in our own counter-works, greater in proportion - than in those possessed by the enemy. Our victory will also be more - decisive, and will have greater results. - - July 11, 12. The city has assumed its usual quietude, and it is to - be hoped that effective measures will be at once taken to put the - new levies in some state of efficiency. This morning (12th) a - squadron of dragoons under the command of Captain Kearny set forth - for Mexico with a flag in reference to an exchange of prisoners. A - general order has just been published announcing an early and - vigorous movement, directing reviews of the several divisions, and - the utmost attention to tactical instruction, etc. It is understood - the movement will commence on Tuesday, July 20. - - July 18. It has been ascertained that Pierce will not reach Puebla - until about the first of August (he left Vera Cruz July 15 or 16), - and consequently the advance movement has been deferred. I trust it - will be deferred till the rainy season is over, and that in the mean - time a train will go down and bring up additional supplies. The flag - which went out on the 12th returned on the 14th. Captain Kearny went - as far as Rio Frio, and made the distance, about forty miles, in ten - hours. The flag is understood to have had reference to an exchange - of prisoners. No answer has yet been returned. - - The review of the troops has been going on. General Twiggs has - unquestionably the best division in the service. - - In conformity with instructions from the general-in-chief, Major - Smith made a report on the 13th in reference to the garrison and - munitions to be left in Puebla on the advance of the army to Mexico, - and the position to be occupied by the garrison. On the 15th - authority was given by the general to enlarge the engineer train. - - July 25. It is now considered hopeless to negotiate with the Mexican - government until another blow is struck, and accordingly it has been - intimated from headquarters that the advance division shall move as - soon as the brigade of Pierce shall be within one day's march. As it - is almost certain that Pierce has taken the Orizaba road, he cannot - reach Puebla much before Thursday of next week, August 4, so that - the advance cannot be made till about Wednesday, August 3. - - During the past week the conversations of the streets in reference - to the probabilities of peace or war have been constantly - fluctuating from one extreme to the other. Taking counsel of their - desires, people have eagerly caught at straws to convince themselves - that peace was certain. At no time, judging from actual facts, has - there been much probability that the difficulties between the two - governments would be adjusted at this stage of the business. - - The governing class of Mexico are easily elated; are characterized - by remarkable tenacity of purpose and indomitable pride, which is - not disposed to submit to humiliation; and they have at their head a - fit representative in all respects, a man of extensive capacity both - for peace and war, and who possesses in an eminent degree genius for - command. In consequence of the long and necessary delay at Puebla, - the enemy have been able to organize quite a formidable force in the - City of Mexico, and to strengthen their position by batteries and - artificial obstacles, till now, with the spirit of hopefulness so - indigenous to the Spanish character, they believe themselves in - condition successfully to oppose us. - - August 1. Last evening a courier brought notes from General Pierce - and Colonel Wyncoop of the 29th ult. The former was at La Hoya with - two thousand men, and no enemy on the road. General Smith, July 28, - with the 1st artillery, 3d infantry, rifle regiment of New York - volunteers, and one squadron of dragoons, went down to meet him, and - at the last accounts was at Ojo de Agua. - - It is exceedingly difficult to push couriers through to Vera Cruz. - They are sure to be searched, and shot if papers are found on them. - Dispatches are made very short, on thin, small pieces of paper, and - concealed in the garments of the couriers. It is believed that the - enemy have relays of horses along the road from Vera Cruz to Mexico, - and that intelligence is transmitted at the rate of six miles an - hour. Every important transaction in Puebla is known at headquarters - in the City of Mexico in ten to twelve hours. With our limited - number of troops, it is impracticable to organize the line from - Puebla to Vera Cruz so that our couriers could travel in safety with - the same rapidity. Besides considerable garrisons in both Perote and - Jalapa, there would have to be a strong force at Orizaba, and - garrisons with stockade defenses on both the Orizaba and national - roads every day's journey, say fifteen to twenty miles apart. I say - it is impracticable so to organize our rear and have left a force - adequate to the reduction of the City of Mexico. In my judgment it - would be our true military policy immediately thus to organize our - rear, and remain in Puebla till a well-disciplined army could be - collected from the States. - - On Thursday, July 29, a court of inquiry asked for by Colonel Riley - commenced its sittings, Pillow, Quitman, and Colonel Clarke, - members. That gallant veteran and most excellent officer, Colonel - Riley, has demanded an inquiry into his operations at the Cerro - Gordo, on the ground that the services of his brigade have not - received justice at the hands of General Twiggs and the - commander-in-chief in their official reports. Riley was a daring and - successful officer of the last war, and has been in more battles and - combats than any other officer in the army. Though advanced in - years, he is intrepid, decided, and of sound judgment. I doubt not - the court of inquiry will make a report that will soothe the - injured feelings of the gallant and good old man. - - PUEBLA, MEXICO, July 8, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--I feel and know that here I can do some service - for my country. So long as my services shall be needed here, I would - not feel at liberty to ask to go home. I fear that peace cannot be - brought about till some great blow is struck, and another signal - victory won. Such is the wretched misgovernment of this people, and - so discordant are their public counsels, so corrupt and selfish - their public men, that I sometimes fear that the strong arm of - military power alone can pacificate the nation. No nation on the - face of the earth is a stronger exemplification of the strong - governing the weak. Wherever our army has gone, the people have been - benefited. You can hardly realize how conciliatory has been the - deportment of our people throughout. All along the road from Vera - Cruz to Puebla, beautiful fields of corn and grain were left - untouched, when our horses were suffering for food. Any aggression - on the property of the people is promptly punished and redressed. - The Mexican army ravage their own people, and leave a sad wreck - behind them. We pay for everything, and protect the people in their - rights. I believe the entrance of our army will give a fresh impulse - to this people. They are now but half civilized, taking the whole - population together. An impulse will be given to the arts of peace, - and the nation will be wiser and better for our coming among them. - - You may be sure that I take great satisfaction in your writing - frequently to father. It will be a great comfort to him. I wish you - so far as you can to occupy my place as regards my own relatives. - Besides my father, Oliver, and Mary, I think many of them are much - attached to me, and that they have a very high regard for you. I - fear their expectations are much too high as to my prospects here. I - aspire to no higher distinction than to do my entire duty. Our - military establishment is so wretchedly organized that it is - difficult for a man of acknowledged merit to rise. In organizing the - ten new regiments very few promotions were made from the existing - organizations, in consequence of which some of the ablest military - men in our army see placed above them men totally devoid of capacity - or zeal for the public service. One of the colonels of the new - regiments is a dismissed cadet from West Point, and since I - graduated. One of the majors of the volunteer regiments is a - dismissed cadet of my own class, a very stupid and ignorant fellow. - The men of capacity and of merit have this satisfaction: in - difficult straits their counsels are sought and followed. The advice - of lieutenants, even, is taken when that of general officers is - disregarded. - - Sunday, July 18. It is ten days since I wrote the above, nor is - there much prospect that what has been written, and what I am - writing now, will reach you for months. It is a great pleasure to - write, and I know that whatever I write you will be glad to read. - Pierce will not arrive in Puebla with his brigade before the 1st of - August, nor can we advance to Mexico till after his arrival. We - shall be detained here at least three weeks, a length of time - invaluable to get well our sick and put in good shape our new - levies. You can hardly realize either the scenery or the climate of - this place. To the west are the two snowy mountains of Popocatepetl - and Iztaccihuatl, their crests far above the clouds, to the north, - Malinche, hoar with occasional frosts, and in every other direction - gentle elevations, the whole inclosing one of the most beautiful and - fertile valleys in the world. Though in the nineteenth degree of - latitude and in midsummer, the climate corresponds with Newport in - the month of April. This is due to the snowy mountains, our high - elevation above the sea (at least 7500 feet), and the daily rains. - Every afternoon regularly, we have a copious shower, and frequently - a deluge of rain. I find four blankets and my woolen drawers - necessary to keep me warm. We need as much bedclothing as in - Bucksport in midwinter. I wear thick clothes all the time, and - sometimes an overcoat. The gentlemen of Puebla are accustomed to - wear their cloaks habitually. For one I could not dispense with - flannel underclothes. Yet we never have frosts, and all the fruits - and vegetables come to maturity at all seasons of the year. It is a - very trying climate. The extreme rarity of the atmosphere is trying - to all of us. It checks the insensible perspiration, and we have to - be careful to keep well. At the present time my health is perfect. - I was never better in my life, and this is the result of an - abstemiousness in both eating and drinking which I have practiced - ever since my arrival. We have an engineer mess of five officers. - For breakfast and supper we scarcely ever have anything but dry - toasted bread without butter and hard-boiled eggs. For dinner, meats - plainly but thoroughly cooked, and a variety of vegetables without - fruit or pastry. Fruit is considered unhealthy. In one of your - letters you inquire if my servant is not in my way. You must - recollect that our servants do our washing as well as take care of - our horses and attend upon us. My servant's part is to wait upon - table and clean the dishes. He has to take care of my room, make up - my bed, mend my clothes, see that they are washed and in good - condition, and take care of my horse. He is expected to spend much - time in cleaning my horse, and he has to ride him every day for - exercise when I have no occasion to use him myself. My servant's - name is Michael Cunningham, a native of New York, and a very - good-hearted and attentive fellow. Michael's only fault is that - occasionally he indulges in an extra glass. This I hope to correct. - My old soldier in Vera Cruz I was obliged to discharge for - drunkenness. Michael I found in Puebla. He was a soldier whose term - of enlistment had expired. I like this kind of life very much. But - you need not fear that I shall look back to it with regret, when I - find myself in the midst of my little family and by my own fireside. - Wherever we are, it is wise to be content. It makes one's duties - pleasanter, and our lives more profitable. - - You may inquire how I spend my time. We breakfast at eight, dine at - two, and sup at seven. I generally rise in season for breakfast, and - go to bed about twelve at night. After breakfast I take a walk and - call on my friends. From ten to five o'clock I pass in my room in - attending to my official duties, which are now entirely sedentary, - and consist in preparing returns, reports, making drawings, etc., or - in studying my profession as found in the books which I brought out - with me, and which are a perfect treasure. Five to nine is spent in - visiting, talking, receiving visits, etc. Nine to twelve I pass - generally in reading. Thus my time is well filled, and I am being in - some degree useful and preparing myself for future usefulness. - Mason spends his time very much in the same way. I am studying daily - the Spanish language, and hope before leaving this country to be - able to speak it. - - Captain Pitman, of Providence, now senior captain of the 9th - infantry, I see frequently. He came up with Cadwallader, and is - spoken of highly by those who have had opportunities to witness his - deportment as an officer. I have no doubt he will do good service, - though unfortunately his company is small, some thirty odd effective - men. He is determined to learn his profession, and will soon get his - company in good condition. - - Sunday, August 1. My dear wife, since I have been an observer in - this country, I have been more and more convinced that the hero age - has not yet gone. This country, so highly favored by nature, a land - emphatically of sun and flowers, so abject in the slavishness and - brutality of its people, needs a hero spirit for its regeneration. - Cortez and his devoted band did a great work, a work fit for heroes - and prophets. His iron will and great soul planted Castilian - civilization and enterprise in the midst of a contracted and - superstitious people; and cities of fine proportions, magnificent - works of art, cathedrals to the worship of the Most High, gardens in - the arid plain and the dense chapparal and the wild forest field - soon greeted the eyes of men in attestation of his genius. But with - the decline of Castilian grandeur, Mexico ceased to be governed by a - race of heroes, and her governors and her priests have degenerated - into mere cumberers of the earth, having zeal only for their own - aggrandizement. Is not here a work for a Moses or an Alfred? Is he - not needed? And must he not arise? With the times must come the man. - - But enough of this. We are still in Puebla, our army eleven thousand - strong, daily improving in health, discipline, and efficiency, - General Pierce some five days behind with that eagerly looked-for - mail that is to bring us tidings from our homes, and all eyes turned - to Mexico, ready for either alternative of peace or war. We all hope - that this vexed question may be settled here on terms honorable to - both countries. But if this is not to be, no man fears the ultimate - result. Every private in the ranks has a solid and well-grounded - conviction that our flag is never destined to retire, that no effort - of the enemy can pull it down. If we move onward, no mortal arm can - prevent the valley of Mexico from falling into our hands. General - Scott is a remarkable man. I will acknowledge that I was under wrong - impressions as to his character. Of a strong and comprehensive mind, - he has extraordinary tenacity of purpose, great self-reliance, and a - power of labor equaled by few men. He is emphatically the leader of - our army, and has its confidence. None of our general officers are - to be compared with him. He has his weak points, which I will not - mention now. No man in this army doubts his fitness to command. - - August 7. Since writing the above General Pierce has arrived with a - mail from the States, bringing to me the melancholy tidings that my - sister Mary was in Cincinnati in the last stages of consumption, - unable to proceed farther on her way home. Oliver went on to bring - her home, and wrote me the very day of his arrival. I wrote you - yesterday by a courier employed at great expense to go down to Vera - Cruz, but it is very uncertain whether he will get through. All the - letters that have been sent to the States for months have been by - couriers, who carry 80 to 100 letters, each a very small package, at - two dollars per letter, and for the sake of the gain run the - gauntlet of the guerrillas and robbers that infest the road. About - one half get through. I trust that letter will reach you, as it - would, I think, serve to remove much doubt in reference to the - movement of our army upon the City of Mexico. Twiggs's division - commenced its movement to-day. To-morrow General Scott and staff - will leave Puebla, and reach Twiggs the same evening at San Martin. - Every one is in fine spirits, and no doubt is felt as to the result. - This letter I must now bring to a close, and get ready for the - march. I shall not be able to add to it till we enter the City of - Mexico, and go again into quarters. At that time not far distant, I - trust not more than fourteen days, I trust I shall be able to inform - you of a glorious victory and of my own personal safety. I for one - have not the least presentiment of coming personal danger. I simply - fear that my strength may not hold out to the last. But with - prudence I have little apprehension as to my strength proving - inadequate for my share of duty. I must now, with all hope and - confidence in the future, bid you good-night and my sweet babes, - commending you all to the care of that great Being who does not - permit a sparrow to fall to the ground without his knowledge. - -[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF MEXICO] - - - - - CHAPTER X - - ADVANCE TO MEXICO, EL PEŅON, CONTRERAS, - CHURUBUSCO - - -The City of Mexico is situated in the centre of an irregular basin some -thirty-five miles from north to south and twenty-five miles from east to -west, and is separated from the great plain of Puebla by the eastern -branch of the great Cordillera of Anahuac, interposing an elevation of -nineteen hundred feet at the Pass of the Rio Frio. - -It was known from information collected by the engineers that the city -was entirely surrounded either by an inundation or by marshy ground, and -was approached by eight causeways, flanked with wet ditches, and -provided with numerous cuts; that the whole city was protected by a -double and in some quarters by a triple line of defensive works, well -armed with cannon, and defended by an army of some thirty thousand men. -The direct approach along the great national road was defended by the -strong position of the Peņon, seven miles from the city. Chapultepec -stood boldly out on the southwest, and on the north there were said to -be formidable works at Guadalupe. - -After entering the valley along the national road, there were three -general modes of approaching the city,--the direct along the national -road, around Lake Tezcuco on the north, Chalco and Xochimilco on the -south. - -All the information collected pointed to the south and west as the -proper quarter from whence to attack the city; the south presented an -extended front with four of the eight causeways of entrance nearly -parallel to each other, and was necessarily weak. On the west the suburb -of San Cosme, a single street lined with houses on either side, extended -well into the country, and afforded a vulnerable point. Chapultepec, not -deemed a very formidable obstacle, required to be swept away to be free -to select the point of attack. Hence Tacubaya, a strong village -overawing Chapultepec, became the key point of the whole operation. In -the particular operation against the southern front, the occupancy of -the church and village of Piedad was of the last importance, in view of -all the southern gates, communicating directly with all the villages in -rear from Tacubaya to San Augustine, and by a good cross road -controlling the three causeways of San Antonio, Nino Perdido, and -Piedad. - -Before ultimately deciding upon the strategic line, General Scott -determined to enter the valley at the head of the column, and whilst the -rear was closing up, to employ spies and push forward reconnoissances to -get accurate information of all the material facts bearing on the plan -of operations. - -Accordingly, on the 7th of August the division of Twiggs, with the -engineer company at its head, led the advance, followed on successive -days by Quitman, Worth, and Pillow. General Scott and staff joined the -advance on the 8th. On the 11th Twiggs reached Ayotla, fifteen miles -from Mexico, Quitman Buena Vista, Worth Rio Frio, Pillow Tesmaluca, -respectively 3-1/2 miles, 11-1/2 miles, and 20-1/2 miles in rear. - -On the 12th a reconnoissance of the Peņon was made by Captains Lee and -Mason and Lieutenant Stevens, the escort consisting of a squadron of the -dragoons, Captain Thornton, a section of Taylor's battery, and the 4th -artillery,--the whole under the command of Major Gardner. The Peņon was -found to be an extensive and commanding position, entirely surrounded -by water,--Lake Tezcuco stretching miles to the north. The base of the -hill, four hundred feet high, was surrounded by a continuous parallel -armed with batteries, and the defenses rose in amphitheatre to the top, -which was crowned by a small work. The only causeway of approach was -swept by two lines of works, and the defenses of the whole position were -formidable. A road branching off from the main road, two miles from the -Peņon, and leading to Mexicalcingo, was pursued some two miles, and -found to be exceedingly good. The Indians in the neighborhood reported -that the road was equally good throughout its whole extent, but that the -bridge at Mexicalcingo was broken down. - -An amusing incident occurred in the progress of this reconnoissance. -Three officers--Major Gaines, of the Kentucky volunteers, Captain Mason -and Lieutenant Stevens, of the engineers--approached the causeway some -three quarters of a mile in advance of the escort, and advanced towards -a group of Mexican officers, some eight or ten in number, who were -flourishing their lances and curveting their horses as if to frighten -the American officers away. The latter, well mounted, continued their -course in a deliberate walk; and when they arrived within about three -hundred yards, the valiant Mexicans discharged their pistols, and, -finding no effect had been produced upon the American officers, who -still continued to advance, they immediately took to flight along the -causeway. - -In the afternoon Captain Lee and Lieutenant Beauregard reconnoitred the -road on the northern shore of Lake Chalco, as far as the causeway -between Lakes Chalco and Xochimilco. The causeway was knee-deep in -water. The object of the reconnoissance (to get boats) was not effected. -During the progress of the reconnoissance of the Peņon the Mexican -troops, in expectation of an attack, were brought out from the city in -large numbers. Major Smith and Lieutenant Tower, from a hill one -thousand feet high, in advance of Ayotla, observed the passage of troops -from the city to the Peņon during the progress of this reconnoissance. - -On the 3d a minute reconnoissance of the ground between the lakes was -made by the engineers, supported by Shields's brigade, who at nine -o'clock left camp to block up the Peņon. - -Captain Mason, supported by Sibley's dragoons and the rifles, and -accompanied by Lieutenants Beauregard and McClellan, examined the -position of Mexicalcingo, seven miles from the Peņon, pursuing the road -that was partially examined yesterday. This bold movement, almost under -the guns of the Peņon, and extremely hazardous in presence of an -enterprising enemy, was accomplished in the most successful manner. -After arriving at Mexicalcingo the party was joined by Captain Lee and -Lieutenant Tower, who, with a squadron of dragoons, had taken the route -of the lakes to examine the roads. - -Mexicalcingo was found to be a strong position, defended by seven -batteries, and entirely surrounded by water and marshy ground. - -The Peņon was minutely examined by Lieutenant Stevens, who entered the -inundation at several points, and succeeded in examining the whole -position, excepting a very inconsiderable portion on the western slope. -He entered the lake, and for a whole mile the water did not rise above -the fetlocks of his horse. South of the causeway the water was carefully -examined to determine the best crossing-place. Two were found where -water was not over two feet in depth, and the bottom very hard. The -positions of the several batteries and the paths of approach were -discovered. The position was even more formidable than it seemed -yesterday. Over thirty guns were in position. New batteries were being -erected, and stockades on the hill. The whole inundation was swept by -powerful batteries. Lieutenant Stevens was engaged seven hours in this -reconnoissance, most of the time within twelve hundred yards of the -enemy's guns. - -We all returned late, much fatigued with our day's work. The general -expressed much gratification at the information furnished by the several -reconnoissances. - -The general has not yet entirely decided upon his course. He listens to -everything, weighs everything, and, when he sees his way clear, will act -with promptitude. Pillow arrived to-day, and immediately proceeded to -Chalco. - -August 14. Little was done to-day in the way of reconnoissances. Captain -Mason and Lieutenant Beauregard were assigned to duty with the division -of General Worth, and joined him at Chalco. Lieutenant Tower commenced a -reconnoissance of the lakes, to determine the practicability of -transport by water to Mexicalcingo, but did not succeed in getting into -the canal of Chalco. In the afternoon Colonel Duncan arrived at general -headquarters with the information that the road south of the lakes was -practicable. (He had explored ten miles of the road with a column.) -Accordingly, the plan of the general to attack Mexicalcingo in front, -sending Worth's division around to attack in rear, was abandoned, and it -was determined to move the whole army around the lakes. - -August 15. Headquarters left Ayotla at eleven, and proceeded to Chalco, -Worth pushing from Chalco the same evening, and Quitman entering Chalco. -Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower were assigned to the brigade of Harney -for temporary duty with the advance. The engineer company also joined -the advance of Worth. - -August 16. All the divisions in motion this morning. The road around the -lakes was narrow and rough, in many cases passing through a narrow -defile on the very edge of the lake, on one side abrupt acclivities, and -on the other a quagmire, into which the least false step would plunge -one several feet deep. - -Headquarters, before reaching the camping-ground of Worth of the -previous night, had to pass Quitman's and Pillow's train. On arriving at -Chimalpa, headquarters remained some hours for authentic intelligence -from Twiggs, it having been reported that in marching out from Ayotla, -early in the morning, he had encountered a large force of the enemy -under Alvarez. On learning that Taylor's battery, in firing seven -rounds, dispersed the large body of enemy's lancers which made a -demonstration against Twiggs at the point where the route left the -national road to wind round Chalco, headquarters moved forward to -Tulancingo, where we passed the night. This village is remarkable for -its large and ancient olive groves. The olive-trees on either side of -the road, stretching out their arms, form an arch above like the elms of -New England. - -August 17. Headquarters reached Xochimilco this day with Pillow's and -Quitman's divisions, Worth advancing as far as San Augustin, and Twiggs -reaching Pillow's camping-ground of last evening. The road to-day was -extremely difficult, and required some working to fill up cuts, and -remove stones and other obstructions placed in the road. The march was -very laborious in consequence of the continual halts. - -Early on the morning of the 18th General Scott reached San Augustin, -called the engineers, observed, "To-day the enemy may feel us, to-morrow -we must feel him," and ordered reconnoissances to determine the best -mode of reaching the position of Tacubaya. There were two roads,--the -direct by San Antonio, which was already ascertained to be occupied in -strength by the enemy, and one to the west passing through Contreras and -San Angel, known, however, for a portion of the distance to be simply a -mule-path. - -Major Smith directed in person the examination of the San Antonio route, -assisted by Captain Mason, Lieutenants Stevens and Tower, and Captain -Lee that to the west, assisted by Lieutenant Beauregard. The -instructions of the general as to reconnoissances had been already -anticipated by General Worth as regards the Contreras route, who had -pushed his division forward, and dispatched Captain Mason, escorted by -Thornton's dragoons, to reconnoitre the enemy's position at San Antonio. -Whilst in the discharge of this duty two shots from a battery of the -enemy were fired, killing Captain Thornton outright and severely -wounding Fitzwater, an interpreter. - -General Worth immediately placed his division in the occupancy of the -Hacienda Cuapa, thus affording the most ample protection to the escorts -of the engineers. Major Smith now ordered Captain Mason and Lieutenant -Tower to examine the enemy's right, and Lieutenant Stevens his left. - -Captain Mason first went to the steeple of a church near by to determine -the best mode of conducting his reconnoissance, and then with Colonel -C.F. Smith's light battalion he passed over a field of pedregal to our -left, till he got a full view of the rear of the enemy. He traced paths -leading to Mexicalcingo, interrogated the peons, and came to the -conclusion that the whole position might be turned and the enemy made to -abandon it, by crossing an infantry force on the line he had just -pursued, and falling upon the enemy at daylight with the bayonet. - -Lieutenant Stevens was twice recalled whilst pushing his reconnoissance, -first, by order of Colonel Garland in consequence of an apprehended -attack from the enemy, and second, by direction of Major Smith, the -senior engineer. This officer did not deem it necessary to do anything -further, observing to General Worth that he had examined the whole -vicinity from the top of the hacienda, and had also interrogated the -residents, and was satisfied that the ground was firm on our right, and -afforded a route to turn the enemy's position. Lieutenant Stevens -expressed doubts as to this, and was permitted to go on with his -examination. He persevered until night, and found that the ground was -marshy, intersected with canals, and that operations in this direction -were not practicable. - -In the mean time Captain Lee, with Kearny's dragoons and Graham's 11th -infantry, reconnoitred the route by Contreras. At about a mile and a -half it became a mule-path, requiring to be worked to be practicable for -artillery, and on ascending a hill a mile and a half farther on, a large -intrenched camp opened to view at a mile's distance, occupied in -strength by the enemy, and completely closing the Contreras route, which -for the intervening distance passed through a bed of pedregal, a lava -rock of honeycomb projection. After passing the intrenched camp, the -road was known to be good. At the hill the party had a successful -skirmish with the enemy's pickets, and then returned to San Augustin. - -In the afternoon General Scott examined in person the San Antonio front, -and at his quarters that evening, after hearing the reports of the -engineers, he decided to mask San Antonio, and force the intrenched camp -at Contreras. Captain Mason alone of the engineers advocated the forcing -of San Antonio. - -On the 19th Twiggs's division, on coming up from Xochimilco, was pushed -forward to the support of General Pillow, already on his way to furnish -parties to work the road. The engineer company, with its tools on the -backs of mules, was ordered back from Worth early that morning and -assigned to Captain Lee, who, assisted by Lieutenants Beauregard and -Tower, located the road and superintended the working parties. - -Major Smith, assisted by Lieutenant Stevens, designated the positions to -be occupied by the trains and the division of Quitman at San Augustin, -now become the general depot and key of operations. Captain Mason -continued on duty with Worth in front of San Antonio. - -General Twiggs passed the division of Pillow just as the tools of his -working parties were being packed away, they being no longer able to -work the way in consequence of having come within range of the enemy's -batteries; and the engineers, now joined by Major Smith and Lieutenant -Stevens from San Augustin, advanced to and entered the pedregal to -examine the enemy's position. As observed yesterday by Captain Lee, he -was found to be in a strong intrenched camp on the opposite side of a -deep ravine, which, with the almost impracticable bed of pedregal that -intervened, completely separated the two armies. All the efforts of the -engineers, who advanced close to the enemy's pickets, Lieutenant -McClellan having his horse shot under him, could discover no other route -than the mule-path, completely commanded by the long guns of the -intrenched camp. This path wound through the rocks, and afforded at -points some little cover for men and guns. The pickets of the enemy were -in large force and well pushed forward. In the mean time a heavy -cannonade, shells and round-shot, opened from the camp. At this -juncture, with the rifles thrown forward as skirmishers, the howitzer -battery of Callender and the field battery of Magruder were brought -forward to a position indicated by Captain Lee to drive in the pickets -and make a bold demonstration, to cover the true and very different -movement, indicated by Lieutenant Stevens on returning from the advanced -position gained by the engineers under cover of the rifles to -communicate Captain Lee's request for the batteries, and before the -order to move forward the batteries had been given. This officer -(Lieutenant Stevens) observed to Twiggs, the senior officer in front, -"The true point of attack is the enemy's left. Attack his left, you cut -him off from his reserves and hurl him into the gorges of the -mountains." Major Smith expressed similar opinions. Riley was now sent -against the enemy's left, and the whole brigade of Smith to cover the -demonstration in front. Callender brought his battery into action with -extraordinary promptness and efficiency, and pushed it rapidly forward. -The heavier guns of Magruder could not be so easily handled, and great -delay occurred in getting them into battery; a position was found -partially sheltering them, and they were brought into action. Callender -was soon severely, and T. Preston Johnston of Magruder's battery -mortally wounded. Lieutenant McClellan, who assisted to carry Callender -to the rear, now took command of his battery, Lieutenant Reno being at -the time detached with the rockets. Lieutenant Foster also, at Captain -Magruder's request, took charge of one of his pieces, and when Johnston -fell, carried him to the rear. Both these officers distinguished -themselves by their exertions in pushing forward the two batteries as -well as in serving them. - -[Illustration: BATTLEFIELDS IN THE VALLEY OF MEXICO - _Contreras, Churubusco, Molino del Rey, Chapultepec, - Capture of City_] - -Riley was still struggling through the pedregal, Lieutenant Tower -guiding his brigade, and Cadwallader was sent in the same direction. -Smith's brigade, closely followed by Pierce, now came to the front, and -entered a cornfield to the left, three companies of the 3d infantry, -Captain Craig, being detailed as a guard to the batteries, and -Lieutenant Haskin with twenty men to make good Magruder's losses. The -fire from the camp--shot, shells, and small-arms--on the front was -terrible, and the enemy's pickets advanced in force, threatening the -batteries. The leading regiment of Pierce, the 9th infantry, Colonel -Ransom, conducted by Lieutenant Stevens, now gallantly dashed forward -through the fire that swept the path, crossed a cleared cornfield in -direct view of the enemy's battery, pressed from cover to cover, driving -clouds of the enemy's skirmishers before them, crossed the rapid stream -that ran in the ravine, and gained the opposite bank, within three or -four hundred yards of the camp. This important position it maintained -till dark, forming with the 12th infantry, the detachments of Craig and -Haskin, and scattered bodies of the rifles, the sole force in front; the -15th infantry, Colonel Morgan, having been sent in the trail of -Cadwallader immediately on the arrival of the general-in-chief on the -ground, and Smith with his brigade following at a later period. - -Riley on emerging from the pedregal came upon the village of San -Geronimo, through which he swept, and continued to advance in the -direction of a ravine that was found to extend to the rear of the camp. -In this isolated position he had two successful encounters with the -enemy's lancers, killing their general, Frontera, and awaited only the -coming up of reinforcements to order the assault. But Cadwallader, not -put in motion till Riley was well on his way, had barely time to reach -the village and hold it against the reserves of the enemy, estimated at -ten thousand men, foot and horse, which now came up from the city under -Santa Anna in person. The village, the key to the position, was to be -maintained at all hazards. Cadwallader presented a bold front and kept -the enemy in check. The arrival of Morgan an hour later, and of Smith -towards night, made the position impregnable against an infantry attack. - -About sunset Riley returned to the village, and Smith, now senior in -command, resolved to attack the reserves, but, dark coming on before his -dispositions were made, an attack upon the intrenched camp was resorted -to as an alternative. - -A dark and stormy night now closed in upon the scene, and the soldiers -in their dreary bivouac were placed in readiness for the morrow's work. -All thus far had gone on well. Worth in front of San Antonio maintained -the front and rear. Smith in the village of San Geronimo held the key of -the offensive movement to the enemy's left; his rear, thanks to the -pedregal and Pierce, still held in front of the intrenched camp, being -safe against attack. - -The general-in-chief returned at nightfall to San Augustin. Many bodies -of stragglers were to be seen on the field. Even the two commanders of -divisions, Pillow and Twiggs, failed in reaching the village, where -their commands were in position, and within reach of an overwhelming -force. As the fire of our batteries died away and they were withdrawn, -cheer on cheer rose from the enemy's extended line. Rain coming on, many -bodies of stragglers not being able to find their commands, the -principal force hemmed up in a little village within reach of the -enemy's heavy batteries and within striking distance of his large force, -for the first time a feeling of despondency seized upon the minds of our -men. Happily, General Smith, the officer in command at the village, was -equal to the emergency, and extricated our force from its perilous -situation. - -He determined upon a night attack, and sent Captain Lee to San Augustin -to confer with the general-in-chief in reference to supporting it by a -diversion in front. In consequence of the lateness of the hour, the -general deemed it impracticable to get any portion of Worth's command -upon the ground in season, but gave full powers to Captain Lee to -collect all the stragglers in front to operate as a diversion to the -main attack projected by General Smith. - -In the course of this interview General Pillow and General Twiggs came -in, stating that, in consequence of the darkness and having no guide, -they had found it impracticable to reach the village, and were obliged -to retrace their steps; Pillow adding that they fell upon one of the -enemy's pickets while thus groping their way, or came so near as plainly -to hear their voices. Twiggs, a heavy man advanced in years, fell into -one of the hollows of which the formation was full, and injured himself -considerably. - -I was present during almost the entire interview, having entered the -room shortly after the arrival of Captain Lee, and everything I -witnessed increased, if it were possible, my confidence in General -Scott. Himself on the ground till dark came on, he had grasped the whole -field of operations, and had determined to adhere to his original plan. -He listened with perfect composure and complacency to Captain Lee's -statement of the field, occasionally introducing a pertinent question, -and with the utmost patience weighed the various suggestions of the -officers, and particularly General Smith's plan of a night attack. -Neither General Pillow nor General Twiggs made any suggestions as to -what should be done. Captain Lee, having been in all parts of the field, -and having full information on almost every point, was, as it were, the -only person whom it was necessary to listen to. - -The general listened with equal patience to what I had observed on the -front attack. In the very commencement, and before the batteries had -been ordered forward, I stated with much emphasis to General Twiggs that -the attack should be against the enemy's left. "Attack his left, you cut -him off from his reserves and hurl him into the gorges of the -mountains." I, however, conducted the batteries forward, and with the -assistance of Lieutenants McClellan and Foster, placed them in position. -After reconnoitring towards the right in the attempt to find a better -path for our guns and troops, and without success, I returned to the -batteries, which in the mean time had been considerably advanced, and -were exposed to a tremendous fire of grape. The howitzer battery was -being served with great effect, and had almost cleared the ground in -front of the ravine of the enemy. But very great delay occurred in -bringing forward Magruder's battery and opening its fire. Everything -seemed to go wrong with him. The enemy's grape, within point-blank -range, in a measure disabled the howitzer battery, wounding many of the -gunners and finally disabling Callender, who was wounded in both legs, -and at this moment some little delay occurred in getting a supply of -spherical case-shot. The supporting party was reduced to some eight -rifles, and the enemy's skirmishers advanced. General Smith's brigade -came up, and entered the cornfield to the left of the battery. At my -request, two or three companies of the 3d infantry advanced to the front -and right to protect the batteries. Soon the 9th infantry came up, with -general orders to support the batteries, and were conducted by me over a -cut and open cornfield, under a shower of the enemy's grape, to the -cover of a ledge, from which, passing from cover to cover, driving the -enemy's skirmishers before them, they reached the ravine, and crossing -which they sheltered themselves on the opposite bluff on the edge of a -cornfield. Colonel Ransom showed great gallantry and force in the -management of his command, and to show the promptness of his command in -following him, this anecdote is related. Only some eight or ten men were -seen lagging behind, and these an officer of the regiment was cursing -most lustily to urge them forward. - -Just as the regiment had reached its position I met General Twiggs, and -we both ascended to a little ridge, where we had a full view of the -enemy's intrenched camp. Soon a shower of grape came in our direction. -General Twiggs remained in his exposed position without moving a muscle, -till I suggested the propriety of his stepping down to a little -depression which afforded cover. - -He informed me that Riley had been moving against the enemy's right for -more than an hour. I remarked, "I will go and find him, and bring you -back word of where he is," to which General Twiggs assented, and I -immediately started in search of Riley. I was, however, much exhausted -by my previous exertions, and the ground was of the difficult and almost -impracticable honeycomb lava rock, and I was obliged to abandon the -attempt, and returned to the advanced position of the 9th infantry. - -On an elevated ridge just on the edge of the ravine, and partly -sheltered by a cedar-tree, I had a distinct view of the whole position. -I observed the encounter of the lancers with our own troops (which I -afterwards ascertained to be Riley's command), and after an interval the -enemy's reserves advancing in great force. They continued to advance in -two lines of lancers and infantry, with clouds of skirmishers in front, -and halted, their right nearly opposite the village of San Geronimo. - -Whilst these reserves were advancing, there was an evident slackening, -and at length a total cessation, of our return fire in front to the -almost continual fire of grape and escopettes of the enemy. This led me -to suppose that a change had taken place in our dispositions, involving -great exposure perhaps to the 9th, and I returned for information. On my -return I met many bodies of stragglers, who could afford no information -as to the state of the field, heard the triumphal shouts from the -Mexican lines, and finally fell upon General Pillow and General Twiggs. -General Pillow was in much perplexity, was intent upon finding the -village of San Geronimo, and wished me to conduct the 9th to that place. -Not having been to the village, and dark coming on, I confessed my -inability to conduct the regiment as he desired, and after considerable -hesitation he directed me to bring back the regiment to the position of -Magruder's battery. I accordingly went in the direction of the ravine, -my chief guide being the discharge of the enemy's guns from the position -of the reserve; but that failing, and the night becoming quite dark, I -lost my way and wandered about, until finally I heard voices approaching -in my direction, which I soon discovered to be from our own troops. -Calling out to them, I was answered by Lieutenant Foster, of my own -corps, who informed me that he was retiring with a party of about thirty -rifles and 9th infantry men, having just been driven out from a small -building, higher up and on the same stream with the position of the 9th -infantry, by a large force of the enemy. At this time I was so exhausted -that I could walk only with great difficulty, and was obliged to abandon -going in quest of the 9th, and returned with Foster, who gave me the -support of his arm till we reached Sibley's troop of dragoons, near the -foot of the hill from which General Scott had overlooked the field. As -we wended our way along the rain fell, small bodies of troops were to be -seen from time to time, and everything had the appearance of a broken -and dispirited army. It, was perhaps the only desponding moment our -troops had seen since the opening of the campaign. - -After resting about half an hour, I returned with Sibley, and reported -what I had observed as above. - -During the whole of this memorable evening, not only was General Scott -perfectly composed and assured, but, in his intercourse with those -present, neglected none of the courtesies due to guests. All those who -came in tired and wet from the field he made sit down at his table and -break their fast. - -About twelve o'clock General Twiggs and Captain Lee set out on their way -back to the field, Pillow remaining in town to sleep; and on arriving on -the ground of the front attack Twiggs, entirely exhausted by his -exertions, sought a little rest, and Lee collected the 9th and 12th, -with some sappers and rifles, to make a diversion in front. - -This note-book is not the place for a detailed account of the brilliant -conflict planned by General Smith. Suffice it to say that, in -consequence of the darkness and constant rain of the night, the attack -projected to be made at three was not actually made till daylight. It -was eminently successful, and without doubt was the most brilliant -affair of the war. The principal charge was made by Riley on their -reverse and rear, led by Tower, and supported by Smith's and -Cadwallader's brigades, respectively commanded by Dimick and -Cadwallader, Ransom in front making a diversion with the troops that had -been collected in that quarter. The position was carried with little -loss on our part, and the whole force of the enemy either killed, -wounded, taken prisoners, or driven solitary fugitives from the field. -General Valencia made his escape with the lancers in an eccentric -direction, and was afterwards heard of at Toluca. - -Our troops pushed on in pursuit and soon entered the town of San Angel, -through which Santa Anna had passed that very morning with his reserves -of fifteen thousand men. After a short halt at San Angel, Pillow in -command ordered the column to move on Coyoacan, where an unimportant -skirmish took place. - -Here General Scott joined the column, and ordered a halt to reconnoitre -and bring up the captured guns. Captain Lee went towards San Antonio -with a dragoon escort to communicate with Worth, and I to the steeple of -the church to use my glass. Turning it on the San Antonio road, I -observed the enemy in full retreat, the whole road from San Antonio for -more than a mile towards the city being filled with troops, pack-mules, -and wagons. On reporting this to General Scott, he ordered Twiggs to -advance to cut off their retreat, and assigned me to duty as the senior -engineer officer of his division. - - - CHURUBUSCO. - -On the head of the column reaching the fork of a road, whither a party -of one hundred lancers had been driven by the mounted rifles, it was -halted and a very rapid reconnoissance made of the roads in advance. -Lieutenant McClellan taking the left-hand road and I the right, they -were found to lead respectively to, and directly in front of, a church, -which was observed to be occupied in strength. McClellan observed one -gun, and a prisoner taken on the ground reported there were two guns. -The engineer company was advanced in front of the building to support -and continue the reconnoissance. Whilst on this duty it became engaged -with the enemy, and the 1st artillery was ordered up in support. - -Thus the action, on the part of Twiggs's division, commenced. It having -been entered on, it was determined to make a bold and quick matter of -it. Taylor's battery was ordered up, and took a position in the open -space in front of the church. It was expected it would drive the enemy -from the roof,[1] and enable the division--Smith in front, Riley on the -left, and perhaps a regiment along the direct road--to carry the work by -a _coup de main_. This course, recommended by myself to Twiggs, was -taken. Some delay, however, occurred before Riley got in position and -opened his fire. Meantime Taylor, serving his battery with extraordinary -coolness and energy, was met by a terrific return from the enemy, who -poured upon him an unceasing deluge of grape, his whole battery -consisting of eight guns, one a 16-pounder. Taylor breasted it manfully -for an hour and a half, when, two of his officers wounded and many of -his men and horses killed and disabled, he was compelled most -reluctantly to retire. - -Soon after this Riley got in position and opened a sharp fire, producing -an immediate and evident abatement in the enemy's fire. The 1st -artillery had been in position from the commencement of the attack, and -was now followed by the 3d infantry. The work attacked in front and rear -by our infantry, all retreat cut off by Shields and Pierce occupying the -causeway in rear, Worth in possession of the _tęte-de-pont_, Duncan -opening two guns on one of the long faces of the work, and Larkin Smith -directing a 4-pounder against the convent, the white flag was hung out -at the very moment the 2d and 3d infantry from the rear and front -carried the work at the point of the bayonet. Immediately the flag of -the 3d infantry was planted on the roof of the building; and over one -thousand prisoners, including three general officers, surrendered to -Twiggs. - -The battle of Contreras and the subsequent advance upon San Angel and -Coyoacan led to the evacuation of San Antonio. Whilst this was in -progress, Clarke's brigade, conducted by Captain Mason, of the -engineers, made a flank movement to the left, and cut the enemy's -retreating column of three thousand in two, dispersing the rear portion -and preventing its reaching the main body and entering into the -subsequent fight. Worth, with both brigades, now pushed forward with -great energy upon the heels of the other portion, till the column was -arrested by a fire of grape from a strong bastioned field-work of -fourteen feet relief and wet ditches in front, covering the passage of a -canal, and somewhat in rear of the work attacked by Twiggs, and which, -like the latter work, had not been noticed in the previous -reconnoissances. Both brigades were formed in the cornfields on the -right; the charge was ordered, Clarke in advance; and after a desperate -but short conflict the work was carried at the point of the bayonet, the -6th infantry and 2d artillery particularly distinguishing themselves. - -In the mean time Shields, in command of Shields's and Pierce's brigades, -conducted by Captain Lee, the Palmetto regiment in advance, pursued a -route to the left, and finally came in contact with the enemy near the -hacienda on the great San Antonio causeway, a mile from the -_tęte-de-pont_. The enemy were in great force lining the causeway, and -the lancers advancing towards the canal. The Palmettoes advanced most -gallantly, led by their gallant colonel, Butler; but some hesitancy was -manifested by the other commands, who retired under cover of the -hacienda or crowded behind the Palmettoes. Notwithstanding the utmost -exertions of the officers, a pause took place at good escopette range, -and a considerable loss was experienced. The Palmettoes lost their -colonel, shot dead, their lieutenant-colonel, wounded, four successive -color-bearers, shot down, and nearly half their rank and file killed -and wounded. Finally the movement was commenced, the enemy was charged -through, and the causeway was filled with fugitives to the city. - -The dragoons, who thus far had continued inactive, now took the causeway -in pursuit, and the most gallant feat of the war was enacted. Captain -Kearny, in advance with a squadron, pursued the fugitives to the very -garita, where he charged directly up to a battery under a fire of grape, -dismounted, calling upon his men to follow him, and entered the gorge of -the work to take it by assault. Looking around, he found himself alone, -the few men immediately following him having been shot down, and the -remainder having retired in obedience to the return call from the rear, -which for Kearny's safety had just at this moment been inauspiciously -sounded. Surrounded by a crowd of fugitives, who pressed too closely -upon him to use their weapons, he retreated, making a passage with his -sword, mounted a jaded Mexican horse, and commenced to retire. Finding -that the sorry speed of the brute would long time expose him to the -enemy's grape, he dismounted and sought a better steed. Scarcely was he -mounted when his arm was carried away by a grape; but he succeeded in -making good his retreat. His first lieutenant, Ewell, had two horses -shot under him, and his second lieutenant, Graham, was wounded in the -hand. - -This was the terrible and decisive conflict of the war, and was a case -of a combined movement of all the divisions. The enemy's intrenched -works were carried at the point of the bayonet. Surrounded on all sides, -the strong defensive building attacked by Twiggs was obliged to -surrender; the reserves, vigorously pushed, fled from the field; and the -army, which in the morning was estimated to be 27,000 strong, scarcely -presented in the evening a sorry array of 4000. We could have entered -the city the same day had we chosen. But our troops had made -extraordinary exertions, our casualties were great, and the general -determined to operate against the city after deliberately weighing its -capacity for defense. - -After this disastrous defeat of the enemy General Scott rode through his -lines, addressing with terseness, brevity, and feeling the troops as he -passed them, who received him with great enthusiasm, and exhibiting all -that moderation and equanimity which has eminently characterized his -course throughout this campaign. Towards night he returned to his -quarters at San Augustin. - -All the divisions suffered in nearly equal proportion, the casualties -amounting to 1066, of which about one fourth were killed or permanently -disabled. - -The 1st artillery suffered most severely in officers, losing in all the -battles five gallant officers, Captains Capron and Burke, Lieutenants -Irons, Johnson, and Hoffman. - -It is probable the same and perhaps more decisive results could have -been effected, and with far less loss, had Twiggs and Worth stopped in -mid-career, and an hour been taken to reconnoitre the enemy's position. -Pillow and Shields with Garland's brigade and Duncan's battery -demonstrating in front, Twiggs's whole division with Taylor and the -howitzer battery on the enemy's right, Clarke's brigade on their left, -both making considerable detours, Clarke as a demonstration, Twiggs the -great attack, the causeway might have been gained; Taylor's battery sent -thundering on the enemy's rear, with Harney's horse and Riley's brigade -cutting off all hope of succor, the enemy's works and the reserves -inclosed by our troops must have immediately surrendered. Then, the -prisoners and their works left in charge of Pillow, all the other -divisions united could have been pushed forward in support of Riley, and -the city could have been stormed with little or no loss. - -This is expecting impossibilities. We knew nothing of the enemy's works, -but we saw them in full retreat, we pushed forward to cut off their -retreat, and, coming upon the enemy's intrenched position, we became -engaged in the very act of reconnoitring it. The result was most -glorious to our arms, and will, we trust, conclude the war. - -Major Smith, the chief engineer, was present during the battle of -Churubusco, and was distinguished for gallantry. He is suffering with -the same disability as myself. - -We were both exceedingly fatigued with our exertions, and were glad to -get a night's rest at our quarters at San Augustin. Shortly after our -return Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower came in. - -Captain Lee had made the most extraordinary exertions, having been on -foot for two days and a night without a moment's rest. It was almost the -only instance in this war I have seen him fatigued. His services were of -the most important character, not second to those of any individual in -this army. Lieutenant Tower, in his night reconnoissance and subsequent -services in leading Riley's brigade against Valencia's intrenched camp, -exhibited great resolution and high military qualities. - -It seemed to be conceded by the whole army that the engineers in these -important operations had done their duty, and that every individual -officer had shown a readiness to participate in the perils incident to -their service. In truth, the whole army, officers and men, were gallant, -and in several instances exhibited all the terrible energy of the -Anglo-Saxon race. - -The night attack by Smith, and the storming of the works at Churubusco -by Worth and Twiggs, are unsurpassed in war. The former was a rare -combination of science and force, the latter an instance of desperate -valor. - -I slept little that night. The picture was mingled sunshine and clouds. -The mangled forms of Capron, Burke, Johnston, and others whom I -personally knew and respected, I could not keep from my mind. The -experience of war is saddening. The terrible scenes of the battlefield -cannot be effaced from the memory. We realize the observation of -Franklin, "I scarcely ever knew a good war or a bad peace." - -Lieutenant Stevens gained great reputation, both at headquarters and in -the army generally, by the part he took in these brilliant operations. -His reconnoissance of El Peņon was considered one of the most daring and -complete of the war, and, as he modestly remarks, "General Scott was -very much pleased with my reconnoissance, and I got more credit for it -than I deserved." General William H. French (commander of the third -corps, Army of the Potomac, in 1863) writes of this reconnoissance, in -which he participated as one of the covering party: "It brought -Lieutenant Stevens conspicuously before the army. That night the reports -of the different officers of engineers were made to the general-in-chief -in person; that of Lieutenant Stevens was so full and clear, it in a -great measure decided General Scott to take the route around Lake -Chalco, and attack the City of Mexico in reverse. From this time the -general-in-chief recognized his ability and talents." - -His exertions at El Peņon overtasked his strength, however, and in -consequence he was obliged to ride for three days in an ambulance on the -march around Lake Chalco as far as Rochimilco. - -In the movement on the intrenched camp at Contreras, Lieutenant Stevens, -advancing with the skirmishers to reconnoitre the position, saw at once -that the decisive movement would be to turn the enemy's left, and seize -the road between the camp and the city, thus isolating the former and -cutting it off from reinforcements. Hastening to General Twiggs, he -urged this movement upon that officer in his earnest and forcible -manner, saying, "The true point of attack is the enemy's left. Attack -his left, you cut him off from his reserves, and hurl him into the -gorges of the mountains." The movement was at once decided upon. Riley's -brigade was directed to the right (enemy's left) over the pedregal, -followed by Cadwallader, and later by Shields and Smith; San Geronimo -was seized, and the dashing victory of Contreras was the result. -Lieutenant Stevens was the first to see and urge this decisive movement, -and his advice was immediately adopted by the veteran Twiggs. - -The terrific conflict of Churubusco, which followed hard on Contreras, -was brought on, or perhaps it may be said precipitated, by Lieutenant -Stevens. From the church steeple in Coyoacan he discovered the enemy in -full retreat down the San Antonio causeway, and on his report to that -effect, General Scott at once ordered Twiggs forward, and Lieutenant -Stevens to accompany him as his senior engineer officer. Leading the -division with the engineer company, he discovered the fortified church, -or convent, barring the road; the company became engaged, and, the -action having thus commenced, General Twiggs adopted almost implicitly -the suggestions of the ardent young officer, and gave free rein to his -efforts "to make a bold and quick matter of it." Lieutenant Stevens -personally led and placed in position Taylor's battery, the 1st -artillery (infantry), and other troops, greatly exposing himself during -the action. The position, however, proved much stronger than was -expected, a strong earthwork and breastwork being screened and partially -concealed by tall, waving corn, which covered the fields in front, and -cost the bloody and protracted fight before it fell. Lieutenant Stevens -did not altogether escape criticism for putting the battery where it -was so badly cut up; indeed, seems to have reproached himself; but his -superiors, the veteran Twiggs and Scott, found no fault, knowing full -well that great boldness and exertion are the price of great -achievements in war. General H.J. Hunt relates that, after entering the -city, a party of wounded officers were talking over matters, and -Lieutenant Stevens reproached himself for having too severely criticised -Magruder at Contreras, and remarked: "The very next day at Churubusco I -did worse myself, acting on my judgment and eyesight, which deceived me, -for I had not a knowledge of all the facts bearing on the situation. It -was therefore my fault that Taylor's battery was knocked to pieces." - -"Here, again," remarks General Hunt, "is his characteristic frankness -and honesty, and _sense of justice_ to others, breaking out, and -carrying him further than was necessary, and into doing injustice to -himself." - - ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE, 3-1/2 MILES FROM THE MAIN PLAZA - OF THE CITY OF MEXICO, Sunday, August 22, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--The great battle of Mexico has been fought, and - our arms have achieved a glorious triumph. Commissions are now - sitting to treat of an armistice that will terminate, as we all - trust, in a permanent and honorable peace to both countries. Mexico - is again without an army, and the gates of the capital are open to - us. Terrible was the conflict, severe our loss, particularly in - efficient and gallant officers; the whole army was engaged, and the - whole public force of Mexico struck down, large numbers of prisoners - and a great amount of material of war falling into our hands. - - My heart is filled with gratitude to the Most High that I had the - strength to do my duty with the other officers of my corps, and - that, although much exposed in three different reconnoissances and - two hard-fought battles, I have escaped without a wound, and without - any abatement of my health and strength. I cannot feel exultation. - We have lost many brave officers and men, some my personal friends; - streams of blood have in reality flowed over the battlefield. The - hearts of the whole Mexican nation are thrilling with anguish and - dismay. Such is war, so glittering and imposing on parade and in - anticipation, so terrible in reality. - - Puebla is about seventy-five miles from Mexico. On referring to the - map, you will find that the direct road passes between lakes Tezcuco - on the north, Chalco and Xochimilco on the south. At the Venta de - Chalco, about twenty miles from Mexico, the road turns off to pass - southward of the lakes. El Peņon, about eight miles from Mexico, is - a high hill entirely surrounded with water, along the edge of which - the great direct road to Mexico passes, consisting of a causeway for - about a mile and a half approaching it, and also of a causeway the - whole distance after leaving it, till we reach the City of Mexico. - - General Twiggs with his splendid division was in the advance, - followed on successive days by Quitman, Worth, and Pillow. In five - days Twiggs was pushed up to Ayotla, fifteen or sixteen miles from - Mexico, General Scott continuing with him in the advance, and the - other divisions five, fifteen, and twenty-five miles in rear. As - they came up (it required two days), they were held in reserve at - the head of Lake Chalco, whilst the proper reconnoissances and - examinations were made to determine the general plan of attack. The - first day, a reconnoissance was made of the Peņon, supported by a - squadron of dragoons, a regiment of infantry, and two pieces of - artillery. The Peņon was found to be fortified and occupied in - force. Captain Mason, of the engineers (my friend Mason), Major - Gaines, of the Kentucky volunteers (taken prisoner just before the - great battle of Buena Vista, and who made his escape only one or two - days before the march of the army from Puebla), and myself rode some - distance in the advance, and observed near the causeway some eight - or ten Mexican officers. We were at least three quarters of a mile - from the rest of our force. We advanced upon them, they curveting - their horses and advancing upon us. When within about three hundred - yards they discharged their pistols, but we continuing our advance, - they all turned their horses and returned full speed across the - causeway, carrying with them a troop of lancers. The whole affair - was very amusing and afforded much sport. It did not diminish our - contempt of Mexican prowess. - - The second day a splendid reconnoissance was made of the whole - country between the lakes, including the Peņon and Mexicalcingo at - the head of Lake Xochimilco. The particular reconnoissance of the - Peņon was intrusted to me. On my little horse, one of the most - enduring, spirited, and beautiful animals in the service, with two - dragoons, I went half way round the Peņon, and was for seven hours - within almost point-blank range of its guns, examining the different - batteries, determining the various approaches, and particularly the - character of the inundation. Frequently I was in the water up to the - belly of my horse. General Scott was very much pleased with my - reconnoissance, and I got more credit for it than I deserved. The - same day Mason made an admirable reconnoissance of Mexicalcingo. - - Our spies had given information that the road around Chalco was - impracticable for our trains, and in consequence thereof the general - almost made up his mind to force Mexicalcingo, and at that point and - westward, fight the great battle of the war. He, however, determined - to wait one day for additional information. - - Worth, who had now come up, was sent to Chalco, and a column under - the orders of Colonel Duncan reconnoitred the road around the lakes. - Our spies were found to have given wrong information, and the road, - though bad, was found to be practicable. That same evening General - Scott, with the whole field before him, determined to move around - Chalco, and ordered the movement to commence on the morrow. - - The prompt advance of Twiggs to Ayotla, the brigade of dragoons of - the famous Colonel Harney two miles farther in advance, and the - brilliant reconnoissances of the two succeeding days impressed the - enemy with the belief that the Peņon was to be attacked, and they - lost no time in filling the place with troops, and putting in - position formidable batteries of nearly forty guns. - - In the movement around the lakes Worth was in the advance, followed - by Pillow, Quitman, and Twiggs. The road was exceedingly bad and - narrow, in many places a perfect defile, obstructed by cuts, stones - from the hills in some cases formed into walls, and requiring great - patience, energy, and perseverance for the passage of the trains. - - The third day Worth reached San Augustin, General Scott and staff - resting at Xochimilco with the divisions of Pillow, Quitman, and - Twiggs respectively some five and ten miles in rear; no obstruction - of moment occurring either in front or rear, unless we except a - demonstration of a large force of lancers on the movement of General - Twiggs's division from Ayotla, a demonstration brought speedily to a - close by the opening of Taylor's battery. - - Early the next morning, Wednesday, August 18, Scott joined Worth; - developed his general plan of attack, and ordered the engineers - immediately to make vigorous reconnoissances of the position and - force of the enemy. He remarked, "To-day the enemy may feel us, - to-morrow we must feel him." - - Accordingly two reconnoissances were made,--one, of the position of - San Antonio, three miles from San Augustin, on the great southern - road to Mexico, conducted by Major Smith; the other, of the road to - San Angel, turning the position of San Antonio, and bringing us to - the next great and adjacent causeway to the west. This latter - reconnoissance was conducted by Captain Lee. - - The first reconnoissance was supported by the whole of Worth's - division. Captain Mason had charge of one party, I had charge of the - other. Whilst the whole party of engineer officers with a portion of - the escort were examining the position of San Antonio within twelve - hundred yards of its guns, and in the causeway itself, the enemy - discharged his battery of two large brass 16-pounders, blowing to - pieces the body of the gallant Captain Thornton, commanding the - escort, and severely wounding an interpreter. The second - reconnoitring party (that of Captain Lee) were brought into pretty - close contact with a body of the enemy, whom they completely - dispersed without any loss. Thus, the enemy felt us the first day. - Pillow and Quitman had now come up to San Augustin (ten miles from - Mexico), and Twiggs to Xochimilco, four miles in rear. - - It was determined to move the main body on San Angel, Worth - remaining in front of San Antonio, and by a vigorous combined - movement forcing this position and advancing upon Tacubaya. - - Accordingly, on Thursday Pillow and Twiggs were pushed forward over - a most difficult road, requiring much labor to make it practicable - for field-guns, and in full view of a large force of the enemy, who, - divining our intentions from the reconnoissance of Wednesday, had - intrenched himself in a strong position, barring our passage. As our - troops approached, they were brought gallantly into action. - Callender's howitzer battery was advanced to a very exposed position - for the temporary purpose of driving in a picket, was not withdrawn - in time, and, exposed to a formidable battery of twelve guns, was - entirely cut up, its gallant commander receiving severe wounds in - both legs. Magruder's battery of 12-pounders was in like manner - advanced and cut up. These batteries were supported by Smith's - brigade on the left, and the 9th infantry on the right. The 9th - infantry I led across an open field, exposed to the enemy's grape, - without the loss of a man. They advanced to a strong position in a - ravine, which they maintained till dark. - - Riley's brigade and the greater portion of Pillow's division were - pushed forward against the enemy's right to cut him off from his - reserves, and by a vigorous charge take him in flank and hurl him - into the gorges of the mountains. - - The whole field of approach was a perfect honeycomb of lava - projections, entirely impracticable for horse and difficult for - foot. Nothing was known of the ground. All the troops advanced with - difficulty. That intrepid veteran, Riley, with his gallant brigade, - pushed forward and encountered the enemy's lancers in large force, - repulsing them in successive charges. He organized his brigade to - charge the battery, but felt it his duty to await orders and - support. - - Smith, somewhat late in the day withdrawn from the right, reached a - village on the left of the enemy's position, to which Riley had - withdrawn, and was reinforced by the greater portion of Shields's - and a portion of Pierce's brigade. An attack under the direction of - Smith was organized, but could not be executed in consequence of the - gathering shadows of the night. - - At this moment, all offensive operations on our side having ceased - and no impression made on the enemy's line, their reserves coming up - in great force and bringing with them additional guns, cheer on - cheer rose from their whole line, whilst on our part there was much - gloom and despondency. Our commands were much scattered, our - batteries had become disabled, and every one was overcome with the - fatigues of the day. During the latter part of the day I was - reconnoitring in the advanced position of the 9th infantry, and, not - knowing the progress of the day in other parts of the field, - returned to the rear for orders. I found General Pillow, who seemed - somewhat perplexed with the posture of affairs, and gave me no - orders till dark was coming on. I endeavored to find my way back, - but could not succeed. I was so entirely exhausted that it was with - the greatest difficulty that I could drag one foot after the other. - Finally I fell upon a small party of rifles and 9th infantry, led by - Lieutenant Foster, of the engineers, who were making good their - retreat from a house somewhat higher up on the same stream with the - position of the 9th infantry, and from which they had been expelled - by a whole regiment of the enemy. On hailing the party, Foster - recognized my voice, and I concluded to return with him, but so - entirely worn down that I required his support. We made our way with - great difficulty, occasionally meeting little parties of soldiers - seeking their commands. It had already commenced raining. On passing - near the place where I left my horse, I could not find him, and was - obliged to pursue my way on foot. At length we reached some dragoons - near the foot of a hill, where General Scott had placed himself to - observe the field, and there learned that he had left half an hour - before for San Augustin, three miles distant. I inquired for my - horse, but could not find him. Foster kindly lent me his, and after - waiting some half an hour I set out on my return to San Augustin in - company with Captain Sibley's troop of dragoons. - - On my way back my feelings were not desponding, but I was sad. The - 9th infantry, called the New England regiment, who had gallantly - followed my lead, and had occupied for hours an exposed position, I - had not succeeded in bringing back to the place indicated by the - general. I felt deeply my physical inability to support - long-continued exertion. It seemed to me that I had abandoned a - body of men who were relying on me. The regiment had acted nobly, - and none more so than Pitman, acting as major. He was cool and - intrepid throughout. - - On my way home the rain poured in torrents much of the time. I - overtook my intrepid friend Callender, whom some men of his company - were carrying home on a litter. He seemed to be comfortable, and is - now rapidly recovering from his wound. - - On reaching my quarters, getting some supper, and changing my - clothes, I went to see General Scott. He was surrounded by his - personal staff, and was attentively listening to Captain Lee's - account of the state of the field. Soon after, General Pillow and - General Twiggs entered the room. Twiggs is a gray-haired veteran of - sixty, large in person, of rather blunt address, and of little - advantages of education, but possessing in an eminent degree - decision of character, great sagacity as to men and events, and an - aptitude for labor. He has the most splendid division in the - service, the fruit in great measure of his own unwearied exertions. - Captain Lee is an officer of engineers to whom I have before - alluded, and one of my mess-mates. He is one of the most - extraordinary men in the service. In the very prime of manhood, of - remarkable presence and address, perhaps the most manly and striking - officer in the service, of great grace of manner and great personal - beauty, he has established an enduring reputation. His power of - enduring fatigue is extraordinary, and his strength of judgment and - perfect balance are conspicuous. For counsel, General Scott relies - more upon him than any other man in the service. - - I never shall forget that evening,--Captain Lee in calm, even, - well-weighed words, giving a full view of the state of our force, - suggesting the various methods of reëstablishing affairs, and - proffering his own services and exertions to carry out the views of - the general; Scott, composed, complacent, weighing every word he - said, finding fault with no one's blunders, and taking in all cases - the best view of things, indulging in no apprehensions, and - exhibiting entire confidence in the ultimate event. At length - General Twiggs and Captain Lee returned to the battlefield with full - powers to retrieve affairs as their best judgment should dictate. It - had been proposed by General Smith, one of Twiggs's brigadiers, to - make a night attack upon the enemy's position, defended by twelve - guns and five thousand of their best troops. Captain Lee's principal - object in seeing the general was to procure his sanction. It was not - denied. On returning to the field, all arrangements were made to - carry it into execution. - - My dear wife, I am spinning out a long letter, and I must be more - brief. This night attack, in consequence of rain and the difficult - nature of the ground, was not carried into execution till dawn of - day. It was organized by General Smith. The reconnoissance of the - route was made in the night by my friend Tower, of the engineers. - The principal column of attack consisted of Riley's brigade led by - Tower. Two other columns were pushed in the same general direction, - one of which was commanded by our friend Major Dimick. In front a - column was formed of the scattered commands, mostly new levies. - - Riley's column pursued its way over slippery and uneven ground, - crossing two deep ravines, halting from time to time to keep the - command together. Finally it reached the brow of a hill in rear of - the enemy's position, and was formed in two columns, just as the - coming day disclosed them to the enemy. Immediately the charge was - ordered, and the gallant brigade made its terrible charge, ably - supported by the other columns. The contest was brief but decisive. - In fifteen minutes one thousand dead and wounded of the enemy lay on - the field, nearly a thousand more were taken prisoners, and the - remainder were flying in all directions. Every one speaks in the - most exalted terms of the conduct of Tower. Some say he led the - brigade and did the whole work. - - As for myself, broken down the evening before, greatly in need of - rest, I complied with the advice of Major Smith and Captain Lee and - remained in town, giving directions to my servant to be called at - three, in order that I might return to the field to be in season for - the fight. My servant did not wake me till five. One delay after - another occurred, and I was finally detained by General Scott to - conduct to the field a brigade of General Worth's command. We - started and had got half way out, when information came of the - brilliant success of the night attack, and the brigade was ordered - back. I continued my way, and finally came across Tower very - quietly eating his breakfast in company with Lieutenant Beauregard - of our corps, who was also conspicuous in the same attack. I rode - on, passed over the battlefield, reached the advance, and exchanged - greetings with my friends of the 9th regiment, who had felt as - anxious for me as I had for them. They informed me that they had - withdrawn to a safe place about nine in the evening, and were - engaged in the night attack. My friends of the 1st artillery, Major - Dimick, Captains Capron, Burke, etc., I also shook warmly by the - hand, and finally rode up to General Twiggs. I congratulated him on - the brilliant victory achieved by his command. "General Smith - deserves the whole credit, but it was my division," was his reply. - - The order was soon given to advance upon the San Antonio road, - General Twiggs in advance, the object being to cause the enemy to - evacuate it and open the way for the advance of Worth. I accompanied - the advance. We soon reached the village of Coyoacan, from which a - picket of about two hundred lancers was expelled. There we halted - till General Scott rode up. He proposed to wait half an hour to - reconnoitre, determine the position of the enemy, and the proper - mode of attack. General Worth had previously received orders not to - attack the enemy till he heard the fire on the other line. - - Calling for the engineer officers, Captain Lee was directed, after - examining a prisoner, to communicate with General Worth at San - Antonio, and I went to the steeple of the church to use my glass. I - turned it upon the San Antonio road, and observed the enemy in full - retreat, the causeway for more than a mile being filled with troops, - pack-mules, and baggage-wagons. I immediately reported the fact to - General Scott, who ordered Twiggs to advance, and directed me to - accompany his division. Twiggs pushed on, and I went forward with - the officers of the engineer company to reconnoitre. We came to a - fork of a road. I took to the right, Lieutenant McClellan to the - left. Mine passed directly in front of a strong building (a church), - occupied in force by the enemy; his led directly to the building. At - a little distance before me I saw the enemy in retreat, and we took - one prisoner, who informed us that the place was defended by two - guns. - - My dear wife, perhaps I had not better at this time go into the - details of the most terrible fight of the war, which now commenced. - General Twiggs has said publicly that by my reconnoissance and - efforts it was brought on, as regards his division. We all felt the - strongest determination to fight the enemy, and put him to a perfect - rout. At all events, it so happened that I was extremely active in - pushing forward columns of attack, etc. Our friend Major Dimick's - regiment I directed to its position. So with Taylor's battery. - General Twiggs, in almost every case, agreed to my suggestions. By - my efforts and those of the junior engineer officers, the troops - were brought under fire and the battle commenced. - - The veteran division of Twiggs, already engaged in two hard-fought - battles, the desultory and galling conflict of the day before and - the brilliant victory of the morning, exposed to the rains of the - night, and the whole without the least rest from the wearisome march - around Lake Chalco, came gallantly into action against the enemy, - intrenched in a position of remarkable strength,--a bastioned - field-work of high relief, wet ditches, armed with eight guns, some - of large calibre, and protected by a church converted into a - defensive building of great strength. Taylor, whom you knew in - Newport, came into action in most gallant style, and opened his fire - upon the enemy, driving him from the roof of the building. But so - destructive was the return fire of the enemy behind his earthen - breastworks that in a short time his battery was cut up, and he was - obliged to withdraw, losing many men and horses, and two of his - officers were wounded. Lieutenant Martin, formerly stationed in - Newport, lost his arm. Riley opened his fire with great spirit and - effect against the left; Smith's brigade, headed by our gallant - engineer company, against the right. Worth, hearing our fire, - hastened up his command, and attacked a strong bastioned field-work - on the great San Antonio causeway, and a little in rear of the work - attacked by Twiggs. The 6th infantry and Duncan's battery were - conducted directly up the causeway. A terrible fire of grape - temporarily checked the advance of the 6th, and compelled Duncan to - put his battery under cover. An attack was directed, headed by the - 2d artillery, to turn the left of the position. The whole command - of Worth was rushed to the attack, not in the most orderly manner, - and the greatest gallantry was displayed by both officers and men. A - continued blaze of fire proceeded from the extended line of the - enemy, resting on the two field-works, and was returned with great - spirit by both Twiggs and Worth. The roar of battle did not for a - moment cease, and at times the stoutest hearts would quail. - - In the mean time the brigades of Shields and Pierce, conducted by - the intrepid Captain Lee, were directed around the enemy's right to - get into his rear and cut off his retreat. The enemy appeared in - such great force that it was with the greatest difficulty that the - command could be brought to the attack. The gallant Colonel Butler, - leading most nobly the Palmetto regiment, was shot dead, and - Lieutenant-Colonel Dickinson was wounded. After exceeding effort - they were made to charge the enemy, the causeway was gained, and his - retreat cut off. In this action both Shields and Pierce were - conspicuous for their gallantry, and the latter was wounded. - - Previous to the attack of Worth, the work attacked by Twiggs had - been nearly silenced by the destructive fire of his two gallant - brigades, the gunners were shot down, and the guns were served only - at intervals. Still the church held out, and the line in rear was - not touched. Worth, after one repulse and at heavy loss, took by - assault the work on the causeway, the guns of which, together with - two from Duncan's battery, were opened upon the work attacked by - Twiggs. Shields and Pierce had now cut the causeway. Seeing no hope - of escape, the white flag was hung out, and immediately the division - of Twiggs occupied the work, taking over one thousand prisoners, of - whom three were general officers. - - The panic was now universal. Our troops pushed forward on the great - causeway, the dragoons in hot pursuit, sabring the enemy in their - path. They fled in all directions. The gallant Captain Kearny - charged up almost to the very walls of the city, receiving a severe - wound in the arm, which rendered its amputation necessary. - - This is a meagre account of this terrible fight, more protracted and - severe than anything seen at the Resaca, at Monterey, or the Cerro - Gordo. Our loss is great, some forty officers in killed and - wounded, and over seven hundred rank and file; nearly half the - officers of the 1st artillery were killed or wounded. Major Dimick - commanded the regiment in three battles and escaped without a wound. - - As I have before said, I was on duty with the division of Twiggs. - This veteran was greatly exposed during the whole contest, and was - conspicuous for his coolness and judgment. General Scott himself was - wounded. The chief engineer, Major Smith, was also conspicuous for - gallantry and good conduct. Our gallant engineer company nobly - sustained its reputation as the first company in the service. At the - close of the action General Scott rode over the whole field, - speaking words of encouragement to the wounded, and addressing the - several regiments as he passed them. On all sides he was received - with the greatest enthusiasm. His words were the eloquence of the - heart, and told with great effect. - - General Scott and staff returned to San Augustin, some five miles - from the battlefield, to pass the night. We were all greatly in need - of rest. To our great satisfaction, on comparing notes it was found - that not a single engineer officer had been touched, and only three - soldiers of the company wounded. - - Notwithstanding the great fatigues of the day, I slept little that - night. The battlefield was before me with its scenes of terror and - of blood. The gallant officers who fell haunted me. The loss of - human life was appalling. I reflected that with less precipitation - the works could have been carried with much less loss. I was - precipitate like the rest, and felt in a measure culpable. - - The next morning, after issuing the proper orders for the movements - of the troops,--orders given verbally from his horse to his aides, - and with admirable precision,--General Scott proceeded to the - village of Coyoacan, and there met a white flag from the city. We - then learned that consternation sat on that devoted place, and that - her army of twenty-six thousand to thirty-two thousand men had - become reduced to four thousand indifferent troops. The result of - the white flag was the appointment of commissioners to treat of an - armistice. This morning (Monday) the articles were duly signed, and - there is now every prospect that the war has come to a close. The - armistice is made by authority of the supreme government, and its - avowed object is to negotiate a treaty of peace. This armistice - provides generally that the two parties shall remain as they are. - Hostilities are to cease within a circuit of twenty-eight leagues of - the city, the guerrillas are to be withdrawn from the national road, - and our communications are to be free with Vera Cruz. - - Monday evening. I have sad news to-day. The first day of the - armistice the Mexicans have commenced trifling with us. The - armistice provided that our army should draw supplies from the city, - and in consequence we commenced drawing specie in exchange for - drafts. The Mexicans denied this construction of the article, and in - consequence, at three o'clock, General Scott gave notice of the - termination of the armistice (the articles guarantee forty-eight - hours' notice). The Mexicans dare not again invoke the power of our - arms, and will yield the point. But it looks bad. - - Tuesday, August 24. The commissioners have met again to-day, and the - articles have been modified to meet General Scott's views. - - Thursday, August 26. Yesterday Santa Anna issued a proclamation - referring to his great exertions to defend his country, and to the - circumstances of the present crisis, and stating his conviction that - an honorable peace would promote the best interests of his country. - Accordingly to-day commissioners to negotiate a treaty of peace were - appointed on his part, who are to meet our commissioner, Mr. Trist, - to-morrow. - - Friday, August 27. This has been a white day for me. The - archbishop's palace is a very good place for the general and his - personal staff. It has a splendid view from its top. But since our - arrival it has been crowded with the general staff and with a - company of dragoons. The courtyard was filled with horses, and the - whole place was becoming filthy in the extreme. The chief engineer, - Major Smith, and myself occupied a small, dirty room, which we used - for a sleeping-room, an eating-room, and an office. Accordingly we - determined to seek other quarters. After much inquiry, I fell to-day - upon a splendid suite of apartments belonging to a judge in the City - of Mexico, which I have secured, and am now occupying with Major - Smith. We have a large parlor, dining-room, two large - sleeping-rooms, a spacious kitchen, stable, and flower garden. As - throughout all Mexico, our apartments extend to the rear, looking - upon an open court, with one apartment only on the street. The house - is of one story, and each window extends to the floor and opens upon - the court. We feel quite comfortable in our new home. The - corresponding suite of apartments on the opposite side of the court - is occupied by the judge's clerks and law students. We have been - much indebted in securing these apartments to the good offices of - Mr. Jameson, a Scotch merchant of wealth in the City of Mexico, who - resides in Tacubaya. He is our next-door neighbor, and will make a - most pleasant acquaintance. Just opposite us, he is now building a - most elegant mansion in the midst of a garden laid out in the - English style. Last evening Mason and myself took a walk to the top - of an eminence in rear of the palace, where we had a most beautiful - view of the City of Mexico and its neighboring lakes. We both - thought of Newport, and of the thousand delightful recollections - that cluster around it. Mason is in fine health, and has greatly - distinguished himself in the recent operations. We both hope to see - Newport before the close of the year. - - Saturday, August 28. To-day I have for once felt entirely recovered - from the fatigues of the recent operations in the valley, and have - twice mounted my horse, and to-morrow I think of going to the - village of Mixcoac, some two and a half miles from this place, where - Pillow's division is quartered. Captain Pitman is there with the 9th - infantry. The colonel of this regiment, Ransom, is a very fine - officer. I saw General Pierce to-day. He was not recovered from the - effects of a fall from his horse on the battle-ground of the 19th - instant, but was able to be about. He was not wounded, as I have - before written. He is making a fine impression upon the whole - service. - - The casualties are much higher than any one anticipated,--over one - thousand killed and wounded (about 1060). General Pierce's command - suffered to the extent of about 160; General Cadwallader's, about - 100; General Shields's, 200; General Worth's, 336; General Twiggs's, - 260. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] The flat roof on the convent and most of the buildings in Mexico - afforded strong positions for defense, being surrounded by parapets, - known as azoteas, formed by carrying the walls some four feet above - the roofs. The convent azotea was lined with infantry. - - - - - - CHAPTER XI - - MOLINO DEL REY.--CHAPULTEPEC.--CAPTURE OF CITY OF MEXICO.--RETURN TO - UNITED STATES. - - -The diary continues as follows:-- - - Saturday, August 21. General Scott and staff left San Augustin at - eight o'clock; on his way to Coyoacan, he gave orders that Worth - should move on Tacubaya, Pillow on Mixcoac, and Twiggs on San Angel; - and at Coyoacan, he was met by commissioners from the city asking - for a suspension of arms. It was granted as preliminary to an - armistice to be concluded for the express purpose of negotiating a - peace, and commissioners were to meet and adjust the terms of the - armistice. The general proceeded with his staff, and took up - quarters in the bishop's palace, on the slope ascending westward - from Tacubaya, and about a mile and a half from Chapultepec. This - palace is a favorite resort of Santa Anna, and affords an extended - view of the whole valley of Mexico. - - Sunday, August 22. Generals Quitman, Smith, and Pierce, American - commissioners, met the Mexican commissioners, Villamil and Quijano, - to adjust the terms of the armistice. After sitting through the - night of the 22d and 23d, the instrument was perfected, and signed - by General Scott and President Santa Anna. It provided generally - that the belligerents should remain as they were; that hostilities - should cease within a circuit of thirty leagues; that reinforcements - to the American army should stop at Puebla; that there should be no - interruption to supplies coming to the army from the city; and that - the American army should remain without the city. - - This armistice during the two or three subsequent days occasioned - considerable discussion. The army generally felt a strong desire to - enter the city as conquerors, and the foreigners of the city, - somewhat numerous, fostered this feeling. It was generally agreed, - however, by the most intelligent and reflecting, that General Scott - had pursued a wise course. Our object was not to make a conquest, - but to adjust the questions in dispute by a definite treaty of - peace. We ought, therefore, to do nothing needlessly to humiliate - them. Moreover, our entering the city would disperse the government, - and there would be danger that the country would become the prey of - factions, and that no party would have sufficient power to enter - into treaty with. Such were the views of our commissioner, Mr. - Trist. - - August 23-September 1. During these thirteen days Commissioners - Herrera and Mora, on the part of the Mexican government, have met - Mr. Trist several times to negotiate the treaty. Thus far nothing - has transpired to afford reasonable apprehension that hostilities - will again be resumed. The appointment of the principal men of the - peace party, Santa Anna's opponents, strengthens this belief. His - own proclamation announcing the armistice strongly advocates peace. - It is believed that, were Santa Anna firmly seated in power, the - whole thing could be arranged in thirty days. Unfortunately, he - depends almost entirely upon his army. At this very moment clouds - are overshadowing the heavens in all directions: Almonte and - Valencia have formed a coalition to the west; Paredes has returned - from exile, and is now said to be in the neighborhood of Puebla; - Alvarez is somewhere to the north; and a fourth faction is making - head towards the south. - - The Mexicans are great sticklers for forms, and, since the - conclusion of the armistice, they have sent back our trains several - times in consequence of some little ceremony having been omitted. - The first train that entered the city was stoned by the populace, - and there was some little difficulty experienced in getting the - train out in safety. An apology was immediately made for the - affront. But it was made the ground for suggesting that, for the - safety of our people, the wagons should be loaded outside, and that - our people should not enter the city. At this very moment there is - no communication between the city and the residents of the villages - occupied by our army. - - I believe that with patience and firmness on our part, and the being - content with the cession of New Mexico and New California, paying - therefor an ample indemnity in money, we shall get peace. We may - consider the relinquishment of the Mexican claims to the territory - east of the Rio Grande as the indemnity for the expenses of the war. - - September 6, 7. All our hopes have been doomed to disappointment. - General Scott, in consequence of the violation of the third and - seventh articles of the armistice on the part of the Mexicans, - terminated the armistice to-day at twelve o'clock, and the ball is - to be reopened. God grant that a similar sacrifice may not be - required of us as at Churubusco! - - - MOLINO DEL REY.[2] - - September 8. At daybreak an attack was made on the enemy's position - at the foundry, and after a most terrific engagement of two hours - the position was carried, but with a loss of six hundred killed and - wounded in Worth's division alone. In addition to his command, - Cadwallader's brigade was engaged. The enemy was in a position of - immense strength, their left resting on Chapultepec and the foundry, - their right on a ravine, a continuous breastwork covering their - front. - - The attack was opened by two 24-pounders on the walls of the - foundry, upon which an assaulting column of five hundred men picked - from Worth's division, organized in companies of one hundred men and - commanded by Major Wright, deployed and advanced upon the enemy's - line. The right, led by Lieutenant Foster with ten sappers and ten - pioneers carrying crowbars and axes, moved on the foundry; the left, - led by Captain Mason, on the enemy's battery of four guns. The enemy - were driven from their lines, but immediately retook them, every - officer of the assaulting column being killed or wounded save two. - Captain Mason had a flesh wound in the thigh; Lieutenant Foster one - in the leg, breaking the bone. The right of the assaulting column - having maintained its position under cover of the foundry, the - reserves of Garland and Clarke were promptly brought up, and after a - desperate conflict the enemy was driven to the rear of Chapultepec, - and the whole position fell into our hands. - - Drum's battery of two 6-pounders supported Garland on the right, and - with two rounds of canister drove the enemy from his battery. It was - then pushed forward three hundred yards beyond support, opening its - fire and driving the enemy before it, but was finally recalled. - Duncan on the left supported Clarke's brigade, and drove the enemy, - who was advancing, back to and out of the right of his lines. The - dragoons under Major Sumner turned the right flank, causing a large - body of lancers to retire under cover of a village to the left. - - I reconnoitred the ground to our left, and estimated the lancers to - be from one to two thousand. - - The attack had simply for its object the destruction of the foundry - (which did not exist; at least, no boring apparatus or furnaces - could be found), and the position was finally abandoned. The battle - was entirely without results; two or three additional victories of - the same kind would annihilate our army. It has filled all hearts - with sadness. Colonel Scott, Captain Merrill, Captain Ayres, Captain - Armstrong, and others have fallen. Among those most lamented is the - gallant Colonel Graham, who fell gallantly leading the 11th regiment - to the charge. Lieutenant Burwell, wounded in the assault, was - barbarously murdered by the enemy by a lance in the head. - - Duncan's efficiency was diminished in consequence of the precipitate - charge of Clarke's brigade on the Casa Mata, masking his fire. A - well-directed fire of round-shot from his battery would have driven - the enemy from that strong position, and thus saved us many valuable - lives sacrificed in taking it by the bayonet. There was great - difficulty in reconnoitring the position without bringing on a - general action. More guns should have been brought into action. It - was more a case for artillery than for the bayonet. An attempt - should have been made to reconnoitre the enemy's right, with a view - of sending round a column and taking his line in flank and rear. - - The loss to Worth's division was greater in this action than the - English loss at the assault of Badajos. - - On the 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th, in consequence of the occupation - of the church of Piedad by our troops, and the pushing of the - reconnoissances in that direction, the enemy was exceedingly active - in fortifying that front of the city from the gate of Belen to that - of Las Vegas, and even prepared cuts in the road leading to - Istacalco on the canal. On the 10th they had a very respectable - battery in position, and were in expectation that the attack would - be made in that direction. - - - CHAPULTEPEC. - - At a council of war at La Piedad on the 11th, it was determined to - establish batteries against Chapultepec, and carry it by assault, - then to operate against the city as circumstances should dictate. - This was General Scott's proposition, and was concurred in generally - by the officers present at the council. Accordingly, on the night of - the 11th-12th batteries were commenced, one for two 18-pounders and - one 8-inch howitzer on the road leading to Chapultepec, and one for - one 24-pounder and one 8-inch howitzer near the foundry. These - batteries opened their fire about eight A.M. on the 12th, Quitman's - division supporting on the right, Pillow's on the left. About 2.30 - P.M. a third battery, one 18-pounder, one 8-inch howitzer, and one - mortar, was prepared also near the foundry. - - The fire was returned with some spirit, and about eight A.M. on the - 13th the order was given to commence the assault. - - Chapultepec stands boldly out two miles from the City of Mexico, an - eminence two hundred feet high, having on its summit an irregular - work with a stone scarp ten feet high, the whole defended by the - strong stone building used as a military college. - - At the southwestern foot of the height is the venerable cypress - grove of the age of Montezuma, extending to within four hundred - yards of the mill whence Pillow was to direct the assault of his - command. At its eastern base was a formidable battery sweeping the - causeway of approach in the direction of Quitman's command, the - aqueduct and stone buildings affording cover to troops. - - It was known, from a daring reconnoissance made by General Quitman - on the afternoon of the 12th, that the enemy were in the occupancy - of this base of Chapultepec, five thousand strong. - - Quitman, with a select storming party from Twiggs's division two - hundred and fifty strong, commanded by Captain Casey and supported - by Smith's brigade, was to attack on the right, carrying the - formidable position reconnoitred by him on the 12th, and thence - sweeping up the hill to enter the citadel itself. Pillow, supported - by Worth's whole division with a select storming party from that - division, headed by the gallant Captain McKensie, 2d artillery, was - to break through the cypress grove, charge up the hill, and pour his - men into the work in conjunction with Quitman. - - At eight o'clock the commands advanced. In Pillow's attack, the - Voltigeurs, with Callender's howitzer battery, ran forward, and, - charging the wood, soon cleared it of the enemy's skirmishers. His - whole command now pushed forward with such unexpected vigor that, - before the storming party could pass them to take the lead, the - whole brow of the hill was covered by a dense body of men, who, - finding cover behind rocks and in the inequalities of the ground, - steadfastly maintained its position, swaying slightly in the effort - to get better cover whilst endeavoring to advance. There they hung, - like a cluster of bees, whilst a tremendous fire of artillery opened - upon them from the work. The storming party with their ladders now - pressed forward; soon they were planted, the gallant McKensie, with - his hat on his sword, pressed forward, drawing after as by strings - the whole command, who in a moment overleaped the work and drove the - gunners down the eastern slope, where a fierce conflict still raged - on the part of Quitman. - - Quitman, at the preconcerted signal, moved forward the select - storming party from Twiggs's division, a light battalion under the - gallant Major Twiggs, and a select storming party of forty marines - under Captain Reynolds in the advance, followed by the Maine - battalion, the South Carolina, New York, and Pennsylvania - volunteers. - - The brigade of Smith was in the adjoining field on the right, and - had assigned to it the duty of breaking through the aqueduct and - taking the enemy in flank and rear. The command moved up the - causeway, under a tremendous fire of artillery and musketry, till - they reached some old buildings of adobe, where they were obliged to - get a momentary shelter. From this position, a company of the rifles - and portions of the storming parties being still further in advance, - they opened an effective fire in return. As the volunteer regiments - came up, they were turned off into the open field on the left, - intersected with ditches, to the assault of Chapultepec. - - The New Yorkers and Pennsylvanians made a detour to the left, and - entering the cypress grove at an abandoned breastwork where some - fifteen minutes previously portions of Pillow's command had entered, - pressed forward and became intermingled with Pillow's command as it - poured into the work, as did the Palmettoes, who pierced the stone - wall at a partial breach made by a cannon-ball without scarcely - varying from their direction. - - Smith in his advance, finding two wide and deep ditches in his front - without any adequate means to cross them, and his force too small to - force the passage in presence of the immense force of the enemy, - veered to the left, and sheltering his troops partially by maguey - plants, opened a well-directed fire upon the enemy in conjunction - with the storming parties and marines on the causeway. - - Meanwhile Drum's battery, a 9-pounder and a 16-pounder, came up and - opened on the enemy, as did Hunt's section of Drum's battery. - - For half an hour the contest was of unparalleled severity. Our - troops, however, pressed forward, and, Chapultepec having fallen, - the enemy fled to the city along the Tacubaya causeway, and a - causeway entering the San Cosme causeway at the English cemetery, - some six hundred yards outside the garita, yet not till some of the - most resolute of their troops had maintained their posts even to the - interlocking of bayonets and clubbing of rifles. - - Quitman on the Tacubaya causeway, the rifles and 1st artillery of - Smith's brigade in advance, Worth on the San Cosme causeway, pressed - forward in pursuit of the enemy. - - Aqueducts supplying the city with water extended along both these - causeways, resting on arches that afforded partial shelter to - troops. The causeway of Tacubaya led directly into the city, and - with a strong field-work midway was defended at the gate by another - formidable battery, by the strong work of the citadel three hundred - yards distant, and by cross-fires from a formidable battery on the - paseo leading from the San Cosme to the Belen suburb, and on both - sides were almost impassable ditches filled with water. - - The San Cosme suburb extended even beyond the English cemetery, - where there was a formidable field-work sweeping the main Cosme - causeway and the causeway from Chapultepec. At the gate, and two - hundred yards without, were two batteries for two guns each. - - Quitman pushed forward his command with unexampled vigor. The - rifles and 1st artillery in advance, closely followed by the - Palmettoes, marines, and the remainder of the volunteer division, - were in close contact with the enemy till possession was effected of - the garita at twenty minutes past one. In this contest Drum's - battery, assisted by Captain Winder's company of the 1st artillery - as a fatigue party, was served with a vigor and enthusiasm - unparalleled in this war. The iron men of Drum pushed it into the - very teeth of the enemy's fire, and made it send forth an iron hail - that drove the enemy from all his positions, even the garita itself. - Drum paused not at the garita. With a sublime devotion, he marched - boldly up to the very citadel itself, and fell mortally wounded, - together with his gallant lieutenant, Benjamin, two thirds of his - company being disabled. In command of a battery only three weeks, he - fell universally lamented, the first artillerist of the army. - - The temporary pause in the pursuit on the capture of the garita, - considered indispensable to get the command in hand in order to - proceed against the enemy, who was still in force, gave time to - reassure the troops at the citadel, who were at one moment struck - with a panic, and on the eve of evacuating the position. - Notwithstanding the heroic conduct of Drum and the gallantry of the - rifles and Palmettoes, the terrible fire which was soon opened from - that work and the battery on the paseo compelled Quitman to withdraw - his troops to the shelter of the garita, where they sustained the - tremendous fire of the enemy till nightfall. - - The command of Worth, on the fall of Chapultepec, boldly pushed - forward to the San Cosme suburb, Garland's brigade and Magruder's - battery in front. A smart encounter was had with a considerable body - of the enemy's lancers, who were charging down the causeway. - Magruder was vigorously pushing forward his guns, ably supported by - the troops, and the battery at the English cemetery was about to - fall into our hands, when the whole command was halted. Worth, on - arriving at a cross-road leading to the Tacubaya cemetery, was - attracted by the tremendous contest going on there, and in - consequence halted his command to be in condition to lend a hand to - Quitman in case of his being sorely pressed. Timely assistance was - rendered by Duncan's battery, which contributed materially to - Quitman's success. Meanwhile a reconnoissance by the engineers - showed that the enemy had no artillery in position at the cemetery, - that the infantry force there was not formidable, and the lancers - hanging on the flanks were not worthy of regard. Soon the order was - given to charge the works. Our troops pressed in, driving the enemy - before them and with little loss, and pressed forward to the - batteries at the garita and in advance. Worth, on his arrival at the - suburb about half past twelve o'clock, finding that a continuous row - of stone buildings put it in our power to make a permanent lodgment, - and reduce the contest to the crowbar and pickaxe without exposing - the lives of the men, recalled the troops, and awaited the arrival - of the ordnance and engineer trains. - - A reconnoissance having shown that the first battery could easily be - carried and with little loss, the enemy was driven from it, and - Hunt's section was put in position behind it, and made to open on - the enemy's battery of two guns at the garita. But he was soon - compelled to put his battery under cover in consequence of the - superior metal of the enemy. - - At four the trains arrived, and immediately the troops, armed with - the proper tools, commenced making their way from house to house. - One party, headed by the engineer company, reaching the top of a - high building, forty yards from the garita, opened fire upon the - enemy at the guns at the very moment a similar fire was opened from - a party on the other side of the street led by the gallant McKensie. - The enemy was driven from the garita, but took away one of their - guns. At nightfall Worth's whole command was lodged in the suburb, - his advance within twelve hundred yards of the Alameda. - - During the night Quitman, in the erection of batteries and infantry - covers, was making every preparation to renew the contest in the - morning and to carry his attack into the heart of the city. - - The enemy, however, withdrew their troops, and at seven o'clock - Quitman's command entered the citadel, and, pushing forward to the - main plaza, the marines cleared the palace of the leperos, or - thieves, who were infesting it, and hoisted the star-spangled banner - from its summit. - - General Scott, who had been the master spirit of the whole - operations, originating the plan of attacking Chapultepec, giving - the order when the time had come to make the assault, from the - extended position of Chapultepec ordering the movements upon the - causeways, supporting each by an adequate force, and on a lodgment - being effected in the Cosme suburb ordering the resort to the - crowbar and the refraining from the bayonet,--General Scott at eight - o'clock issued his orders from the national palace announcing his - occupation of the capital of Mexico. - - Still, a desultory contest was kept up throughout the day from the - houses of the city by an intermingled body of soldiers and leperos - led on by officers of the army. Scott took the most decided means to - stop it, and ordered every house to be blown up from which a hostile - shot should be fired. At night the city was tranquil and in the - undisturbed possession of our troops. - - Thus the crowning glories of Chapultepec and of the gates of San - Cosme and Belen placed us in the undisputed possession of the City - and valley of Mexico. The public force of the enemy, dispirited and - demoralized, paused two or three days at Guadalupe and divided: - Santa Anna with a portion repairing to Puebla to try his fortunes - against Childs, the governor of that place, and to watch his - opportunity to fall upon our reinforcements coming up from Vera - Cruz; the remainder, a disorderly rabble, repairing to Queretaro, - where the government was to be temporarily established. - - The casualties to the American arms in this valley have been - immense,--2703 out of a force of 10,737, over one fourth, equal to - the English loss at the siege of Badajos. - - General Scott's movement against Chapultepec was masterly, and in - his plans he was well seconded by his generals. The removal of the - depot to Mixcoac, the concentration of the troops at La Piedad, and - the reconnoissances in that direction, impressed the enemy with the - belief that that point of the city was to be attacked; nor were they - undeceived till the very last moment, fully believing that the - operations against Chapultepec were only a feint. - - In the attack upon Chapultepec General Quitman's arrangements are - open to criticism. His select storming party intended for the - assault of Chapultepec, and armed with ladders to scale and - implements to break through the walls, were kept on the causeway; - whereas the whole volunteer force was sent in that direction, wholly - unprovided in every particular, and that, too, at too late a period - to be of much essential assistance, and in a direction which made it - necessary to fall in with Pillow's command, already supported in - great strength by the whole of Worth's division. The consequence was - that General Smith found himself too weak to break through the - enemy's force at the aqueduct and take him in flank and rear. Had - Smith been preceded by the storming party provided with plank to - cross the ditches, and supported by two of the volunteer regiments, - the slaughter of the enemy must have been immense, and large numbers - must have been taken prisoners. The marines with their storming - party, the light battalion, and one of the volunteer regiments with - Drum's battery would have been in place to encounter the enemy on - the causeway. - - At the garita Drum's battery and the Palmettoes were pushed forward - under the guns of the citadel, and large numbers were uselessly - sacrificed. - - On the whole, however, General Quitman exercised good judgment, and - gave proof of extraordinary vigor, intrepidity, and firmness. And he - deserves the greatest credit for his perfect mastery of his command. - - General Pillow's dispositions were good and well executed, excepting - that the storming party did not move in season, in consequence of - which the supporting force, pressing onward, gained the brow of the - hill in dense masses, and were there detained some little time - awaiting the storming party with their ladders, who in their turn - found great difficulty in pushing their way through to the front, - which only a small portion succeeded perfectly in doing. - - General Worth, in his attack upon the city, unnecessarily delayed - his advance to succor Quitman. Quitman was to be most effectually - relieved by the vigorous attack of Worth on his own line. On the - arrival of the trains, however, he proceeded with great judgment and - efficiency, and his attack alone, in consequence of being able to - work from house to house, must have of itself put the city into our - hands. Had it not been for Worth's vigorous movement towards - nightfall, bringing him well into the city, the enemy would not have - abandoned the citadel to Quitman without a severe struggle. - - Twiggs's command did not have the prominence as a division that it - had at Contreras and Churubusco in consequence of the brigades being - separated. Smith's brigade did good service in conjunction with - Quitman, and Riley at La Piedad kept the enemy in check during the - storming of Chapultepec, and, afterwards joining Worth, did good - service in the streets on the 14th. - - The engineers did good service during all their operations at Molino - del Rey. Captain Mason made a most daring and successful examination - of the front of the enemy's position, and in the attack on the 8th - was signally gallant, but the result showed that the right of the - enemy should have been more particularly examined. The character of - his defenses at this point was never known till our troops, in the - full tide of battle, were hurled against them, to be repulsed with - the loss of nearly half their number. - - Without shining talents, and without any remarkable decision or - independence of character, Captain Lee has rendered signal service - on this line. Laborious, constant, firm, of good judgment, patient, - and guarded in his conduct, of popular manners and address, he has - been a safe counselor, and always efficient in the discharge of - duty. Distinguished at Vera Cruz, the Cerro Gordo, and in this - valley, both before and subsequent to the armistice, he continued at - his post to the last moment, even when oppressed with illness and - great physical fatigue. After the storm of Chapultepec he received a - severe contusion in the thigh, which disabled him for the day. - - Lieutenant Beauregard is one of the finest soldiers in our corps. Of - great strength, accomplished in all manly exercises, well read in - his profession, and of forcible and independent character, much - self-reliance and confidence, he has established a good reputation - throughout the service. On the day of the storm of Chapultepec, - although struck several times and twice severely, he maintained his - post, and in the night supervised the erection of the batteries and - infantry covers, from which Quitman was to open his fires upon the - citadel in case the enemy had continued the conflict on the - following day. - - Lieutenant Tower, for judgment, for an assured and natural - self-reliance, great force of character, and great decision and - intrepidity in emergencies, has no superior in our corps. - Indefatigable at Vera Cruz and the Cerro Gordo, he was eminently - distinguished at Contreras. Subsequent to the armistice he was - efficient in the discharge of his duties, and the engineer officer - of Quitman on the day of the storm of Chapultepec; he was remarkably - intrepid under the fire of the enemy, and was at his post till a - severe wound in the head compelled him to withdraw. - - Lieutenant Smith, in command of the engineer company, has rendered - the most distinguished service. He has shown great power of command. - The engineer company has rendered the most distinguished service. - The engineer company devolved upon him in a state of great - despondency and discontent on the part of the men. By his judicious - management he breathed into it the breath of life, raised the - spirits of the men, and inspired them with hope and confidence. In - his hands the company has acquired a great reputation in the - service. - - His lieutenants, McClellan and Foster, are both brave, intrepid, - efficient, and devoted to duty. At Molino, Foster was dangerously - wounded in the leg. - - But perhaps no officer of engineers has rendered more brilliant - service than Captain Mason. Of remarkable intellectual force, great - quickness of apprehension, highly cultivated, an ambitious student, - and frank and honest in his life, on the field of battle, in a - reconnoissance of the enemy's position, indeed in every emergency, - he has been conspicuous for force, rapid decision, and the most - daring intrepidity. - - In my own case, delicate health has much diminished my efficiency. - Our long rest in Puebla did something towards restoring my strength, - and I entertained the hope that it would prove equal to any - emergency. I rode in an ambulance to Buena Vista, and subsequently - from Ayotla to San Augustin. My reconnoissance of the Peņon, in - which I was employed seven hours in mud and water, and within almost - point-blank range of the enemy's guns, was highly satisfactory to - General Scott. On the 19th, at Contreras, I was too much exhausted - and in too delicate health to remain on the field exposed to the - rain. I in consequence returned to San Augustin, and was not present - in the splendid attack of General Smith on Valencia's intrenched - camp. At Churubusco I was the senior engineer officer of Twiggs's - division. At the close of that day I was almost wholly prostrated by - my exertions, and I had not renewed the strength with which I left - Puebla on the termination of the armistice. At Molino del Rey I - accompanied the reserves to the field, and on Mason and Foster - becoming disabled from wounds, did duty during the remainder of the - action. Subsequently, in conjunction with Beauregard and Tower, I - reconnoitred the southern front of the city. In consequence of - physical exhaustion I was not assigned to duty in the establishing - of batteries against Chapultepec, but on the day of the 13th was on - duty till I was wounded, in the San Cosme suburb, about half past - one o'clock. - - September 13. At half past one o'clock I was wounded in the foot, - whilst posting a picket at a little work at a village some five - hundred yards beyond the English cemetery. Dr. De Lein cut out the - ball. It struck close to the little toe, and crossing over a little - obliquely to the rear, was cut out just in front of the instep. The - bones are fractured and the tendons lacerated. About half past - three o'clock I was taken to Tacubaya in an ambulance, and in the - evening Dr. Barnes dressed my wound. - - September 14. I was removed to the city this day, and placed in - comfortable quarters in the palace. I suffered some little pain last - night and through the day. I owe many thanks to Major Smith for his - unwearied kindness. - - September 15. To-day I am relieved of pain, though last night I got - but indifferent rest. Dr. Barnes attends me, and has commenced - applying poultices. - - September 17. Dr. Barnes, on examining my wound this morning, - observed, in a manner that showed he was relieved of much anxiety, - "I can save the foot." - - September 18-30. During this period my wound has done famously. I - have been in no pain whatever. News has come of large reinforcements - pouring in from below, and many expect them to reach Mexico as early - as the 10th proximo. It seems to me we cannot reasonably expect - their arrival till the 20th or 30th proximo. - - Santa Anna, some few days after our entrance, abdicated the - presidency in favor of the chief justice, Peņa y Peņa, and announced - his intention to go to Puebla, organize a force, and operate against - Childs and reinforcements coming up from below. No one here is much - apprehensive of the result. - - The general has found it necessary to issue stringent orders in - regard to assassinations of men, and to enforce the utmost vigilance - on the part of our guards. In some of the regiments the police is - bad, and the guards totally neglectful of their duty. - - A large city is ruinous to the _morale_ of troops. The officers in - our army spend the nights at the gambling-houses (tigers), and the - men indulge in women and drink as long as their money lasts. - - A camp of instruction alone affords the means of putting troops in a - high state of discipline and efficiency. Yet the occupation of - cities has great advantages. The residents become familiar with our - character and customs, and friendly relations grow up. - - October 1. This day I have sat up the first time,--a most agreeable - change from the recumbent posture. We hear news from below that - Childs has been severely pressed. Here, we are firmly of opinion - that he cannot be driven from his post. It is hoped and believed - that no troops will march up from below except in a strong column, - four to six thousand men. A small body might tempt the enemy. He - might fall upon it with a large force and gain some success. - - October 2-11. Rumors accumulate in reference to Santa Anna's attack - on Puebla. From all accounts, his troops are of poor quality, and he - is not on the best terms with his subordinates. My wound is doing - exceedingly well, and I have at length found an opportunity to write - to my wife and father by way of Tampico. - - October 12-24. My wound has been doing badly, and my general health - has been poor. For several days the foot became much inflamed, and - poultices had to be applied. The new flesh has sloughed off, and the - process of granulation has to be gone over again. At the present - time my wound is doing well, and the fever or flux, which has - threatened me for many days, I have nearly driven off. - - November 1. A train of six hundred wagons departed for Vera Cruz - with a large number of wounded officers and men, on their return to - the States; Generals Quitman and Shields, Colonels Garland, Andrews, - and Morgan, Major Smith, and other distinguished officers being of - the number. - - General Quitman leaves behind him the most enviable reputation. - Courteous in deportment, just in conduct, a man of business devoted - to his duty, he is second to no commander of division in this army. - As a military man he is said to be well informed, and to understand - well the principles of his profession. He has extraordinary vigor, - courage, and coolness, and he has exhibited great ability in the - management of the volunteer division. - - General Shields has all the dashing and enthusiastic bravery - peculiar to the Irish race. There is no braver man in our army. - Since entering the military service he has assiduously studied his - profession, and is fast rising as a military man. - - November 2. Yesterday and to-day have been festival (All Saints') - days. Word came from Colonel Childs that General Lane on the 29th - set out from Puebla with a column to meet the train, and that - General Patterson left Vera Cruz with five thousand men. There is - still an impression that General Patterson will assume the command, - and that General Scott will be recalled. But I discredit it - entirely. Very few cases of stabbing now occur. - - On the departure of Major Smith, with whom I have messed nearly the - whole time I have been in the country, I find myself entirely alone. - Colonel Watson (in command of Shields's brigade) and staff occupied - adjoining rooms, and we made a very pleasant little circle. Colonel - Watson is a candid, sensible, and good man. I esteem him highly. - Lieutenant Baker is a gentleman of much intelligence, considerable - acuteness, and of the most friendly feelings. They are now all gone, - and I am now installed in Colonel Watson's apartment. I am in a - spacious room, with three large windows hung in damask looking on - the street, and having at one extremity a raised platform, carpeted, - and canopied with damask. Here I have my bed, my table, and my - armchair, as comfortable as all the world. Indeed, I now very much - feel as if I were in the halls of the Montezumas. My brother - officers have most kindly offered to do all they can for me. - - November 3. Since the departure of the train the weather has been - beautiful. Captain Naylor this morning very summarily dispelled my - dreams of luxuriating in the halls of the Montezumas by saying that - the room I now occupied was needed for a commission, and that he - must ask me to remove to my old quarters. As they were exceedingly - damp and uncomfortable, and totally unfit for an invalid, Captain - Lee referred the matter to General Smith, the governor of the city, - who decided that I should not be moved till a suitable room could be - provided. - - Captain Naylor is an enthusiast on the subject of the regeneration - of Mexico through American intervention. As superintendent of the - archives, he avails himself of his opportunities to understand this - people. They are undoubtedly degenerating. The cities are falling - into decay; the mechanic arts do not improve; misrule and anarchy - have long been the every-day experience of this unfortunate people. - In the City of Mexico not a new house has been built for years, and - many structures are crumbling into ruins. - - November 4. My friends, Captains Lee, Power, and Hardcastle, give - glowing accounts of the scenic representations at the Santa Anna - theatre,--more perfect in the mechanical contrivances, and more - splendid in effect, than anything to be seen in our own country. I - regretted to learn that Captain Lee's man Peter was murdered in - Ayotla after the arrival of the train on the evening of the 1st - instant. - - The officers are hard at work at their drawings, and hope to finish - them against my going down in the next train. - - November 11. During the past few days I have been ill and well - again,--a bad cold and the wound inflamed. The doctor, however, - still confines me to my room. He considers that rest is necessary to - prevent my foot's inflaming. - - Information has come that General Patterson, on the 27th ultimo, - left Vera Cruz. He will probably require twenty days to reach - Puebla, and some twelve days more to make his arrangements there and - his journey to Mexico. I shall not, therefore, look for a mail - before the 17th instant. - - November 14. Nothing of interest has occurred in the city. Anaya is - said to have been elected provisional president. A piece of leather - of the size of half a tlaco came from my wound to-day. It was cut - out of my shoe by the ball and carried into my foot. - - November 15. A general order was published to-day announcing the - determination of the general to bring to trial and punishment all - officers who shall, contrary to regulations, furnish for publication - accounts of operations in the field, and censuring in the severest - terms the authors of "Leonidas" and of the Tampico letter in the - "North American." - - November 16. Colonel Duncan, in a letter breathing defiance to the - general, announced himself as the author of the Tampico letter, and - exonerated General Worth from all knowledge even of its having been - written till it was well on its way. It was not written for - publication, Colonel Duncan avers. Colonel Duncan was arrested in - consequence of these matters. - - November 18. The long-expected train arrived to-day, bringing me - three letters from my dear wife, and news of my little family being - in excellent health. Mr. Trist has been recalled, and it seems to be - the determination of the government to abandon all attempts to - negotiate a peace, and to prosecute the war unto the occupation of - the whole country. - - November 20. Much to my delight, I mounted my crutches to-day and - moved about my room. - - November 21. I made a call on my friend Major Kirby, and met several - of my acquaintances. - - November 22. To-day I got as far as the engineer office. General - Pillow is in arrest. - - December 4. Went into the streets to-day and was much rejoiced to be - relieved from confinement. Called to see my friend Foster, and found - him doing nicely. - - December 5. Went to the theatre, and was charmed with Caņete. My - friends had spoken of her in glowing terms, and I went prepared to - find her overrated. She is remarkably natural, chaste, and graceful - in all her impersonations, and I do not wonder that she is so very - popular with the whole world of theatre-going people. - - December 9. The train finally got off to-day, and proceeded as far - as Venta Nueva. Foster and myself have a tolerable ambulance - assigned to us. We got off late, the last wagons not leaving the - city till towards noon. The mules were a good deal fagged, and the - train will not probably get down so soon by two days in consequence - of the length of this day's march. Distance, main plaza to Ayotla, - fourteen miles. - - December 10. Proceeded to Rio Frio. Here I met my classmate, Colonel - Irvin, in command of the 5th Ohio regiment. The night was quite - cold, and, not finding a room, we were obliged to sleep in an - ambulance. - - December 11. This day went to San Martin, where we found some - excellent pulque. Distance, fifteen miles. - - December 12. Reached Puebla. Distance, twenty miles. - -1847. The diary ends here. - -Lieutenant Stevens's wound was far more serious than he, in his cheerful -way of making the best of everything, admitted. The ball ploughed across -the bridge of the foot, breaking nearly all the bones. At first the -surgeons were extremely doubtful of saving the foot. The wound was slow -in healing, and the foot never fully recovered its strength and -usefulness. Three times, at intervals of one or two years, the wound -opened and expelled pieces of bone. For many years he had to wear a -special shoe with extra-thick sole. - -The chief of the robbers who served as spies for General Scott, a man of -striking presence and romantic though blood-stained career, known as Don -Juan el Diablo (Don John the Devil), formed a strong attachment to -Lieutenant Stevens, and took care of him during a great part of his -sickness, and was devoted and unwearied in his attentions to the wounded -officer. - - ST. CHARLES, NEW ORLEANS, December 28, 1847. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--I have just reached this city after a four days' - passage from Vera Cruz, and a twenty days' journey in all from the - City of Mexico. I am in splendid health, although my wound still - keeps me on crutches. We are all going up the river to-morrow, and I - am full of the most blissful anticipations at the idea of seeing - you, the children, and friends. You will not see me for eight or ten - days after the receipt of this. I shall be obliged to stay in - Washington some days. Love to friends, and to Hazard and Sue. I hope - to see you soon. - - Yours affectionately, - ISAAC. - -FOOTNOTES: - - [2] The hill of Chapultepec, famed as the ancient country-seat of - the Montezumas, rose some two miles outside the city, and was - crowned by a strong castle. An extensive grove of huge and hoary - cypresses clothed its slopes and stretched half a mile westward, - the whole surrounded by a solid wall of masonry. Molino del Rey, - the King's Mill, a group of stone buildings, stood at the foot - of the grove, and the Mexican line of defenses extended thence - to a strong work, the Casa Mata, and far beyond it. It was - reported that the enemy had a gun foundry in Molino, and General - Scott determined to capture it. - - - - - CHAPTER XII - - HEROES HOME FROM THE WAR - - - WASHINGTON, January 23, 1848. - - MY DEAREST MARGARET,--At the strong desire of the colonel, I must - remain here a few days longer. He wishes me to go with him over all - the reports in order to get at all the facts in relation to the - services of the engineer officers in the recent campaign of Mexico. - I am able to afford many explanations of the reports, presenting in - a stronger light the services of our officers, which will enable the - colonel to present a strong case to the Secretary in matters of - brevets. - - The colonel and his family have been very cordial to me, and nothing - could be more grateful than the high appreciation they have for the - services of our officers. The colonel takes great pride in the - distinction which our corps has acquired. Indeed, the services of - the engineers have been so conspicuous that the corps has become - popular. Every one knows that the engineers have important functions - in the field. - - I have paid my respects to the President and Secretary, and was - highly gratified with my interview. The Secretary had a half hour's - leisure, and I took the opportunity to express my sense of the great - ability, wisdom, and patriotism of General Scott. The Secretary has - the highest admiration for his military achievements, and is indeed - a just and judicious friend to the service. - - I am boarding at Mrs. Janney's with my old friends, Gilmer and - Woodbury. Woodbury married Miss Childs, a very pleasant lady. Her - mother is also boarding at the same place, a highly intelligent - person, and the wife of Colonel Childs, distinguished for his - defense of Puebla. - - You may be sure I am very impatient to see you and my little ones. - Nothing but a sense of duty to my brother officers, who are absent - in the field, could have induced me to remain. I hope to reach - Newport within the week, certainly by next Sunday morning. - - Affectionate remembrances to friends, and love, much love, to my - Hazard and Susan. - - Yours most affectionately, - ISAAC. - - My health is splendid, my wound improving. - -The enforced visit to Washington was not without pleasant features. He -was received with the gratifying attentions due an officer just from the -seat of war, who had distinguished himself for gallantry and conduct, -and enjoyed the congenial duty of explaining the military operations to -his chief, and aiding in securing for his absent comrades the honors and -rewards they had so well earned. A letter of February 6 from his friend, -Captain Foster, is of interest in this connection:-- - - "On arriving at Washington I went immediately to Mrs. Janney's. - There I heard of you. They all spoke very highly of you, - particularly Mr. Robbins, who was very much interested in you. I - dined at Colonel Totten's on Wednesday, and Mrs. T. told me all - about your being here. They all paid you some very fine compliments. - Mrs. T. said she gained more information from Mr. Stevens than from - _all_ the other officers who had come from Mexico, your manner of - speaking of men and things was so frank and just. Miss Kate said she - was _delighted_ with Mr. Stevens; he was correct and reliable in all - he said. The colonel seemed glad to see me, and proud of the - reputation of his corps. The result of all this, I hope, will be - that he will give us two brevets, make you a major in charge of a - work, and send me as your assistant.... It made me right jealous to - hear the flatteries that the ladies at Mrs. Burr's bestowed on the - 'gallant Mr. Stevens.'" - -It was a joyful reunion when he reached Newport, and enfolded his dearly -loved wife and little ones in his arms. A fortnight later he visited -Andover, and one may imagine how his father, brother Oliver, and cousins -and fellow townsmen received the soldier, returned on crutches, with -open arms, and lionized him to the full. The country had been at peace -for thirty years, and the returning soldiers from Mexico, especially the -wounded officers, were received with mingled feelings of awe and -admiration. Writes a brother officer, "The boys look at me around the -corner, remarking, 'I see him.' 'There he goes.' 'The man that's been to -Mexico.'" - - NEWPORT, R.I., February 28, 1848. - - MY DEAR FATHER,--We reached Newport about half past eight o'clock in - the evening the same day we left Andover. I am now in my office, and - am devoting some six hours each day to official matters. My wound is - improving; I go about the house with a cane simply, and through the - streets with one crutch and a cane. In one month, or at least in two - months, I hope to be able to dismiss my crutches entirely. - - I hope in all sincerity that our difficulties with Mexico are in the - way of a permanent adjustment. The general opinion is that the - Senate will ratify the treaty. The only difficulty (and one which in - my opinion is much to be apprehended) is that Mexico, in consequence - of a pronunciamiento, may disavow her own act. I trust, however, - that such will not be the case, though I think it incumbent upon our - government to continue to raise and push out troops till the thing - is settled. Should there be want of faith on the part of the - Mexicans, we should be in condition to punish it with most exemplary - severity. Let our war measures be all pushed through without delay, - and let there be the greatest activity in raising troops. This - course of procedure, whilst ratifying the treaty, will make the - treaty an effective thing. - - Remember me to friends. Margaret wishes to be affectionately - remembered to you. Hazard has not forgotten your stories of King - George and the Redcoats. - -At this time he was being considered for the colonelcy of one of the new -regiments, which, if the war continued, would have to be raised. A -prominent member of Congress from Maine, Hezekiah Williams, writes him, -"I think our delegation would unite in recommending you. It certainly -would give me pleasure to aid in obtaining your appointment." Mr. -Stevens writes Oliver:-- - - "My policy is to get elected to the command of a volunteer regiment, - and get a leave of absence, so as to hold on to my present - commission. I should like to command a Massachusetts regiment and - put it through some good service in Mexico, should we be obliged to - resort to the alternative of renewing the contest." - -An incident occurred one day, when a light rifle that Mr. Stevens had -taken to Mexico, but had never used in action there, stood in good -stead. A mad dog ran amuck down Broad Street, frothing at the mouth and -snapping at all he met. The people on all sides rushed into the shops -and houses for refuge, with loud outcries of alarm and warning. Mr. -Stevens, apprised of the danger, seized the light rifle, hobbled out on -his crutches to the sidewalk, followed up the maddened beast, which had -now dashed into the hall of a neighboring house, and shot him through -the head, killing him on the spot. - -He might now reasonably expect a little rest until he could recover from -his severe wound and injury. He writes Oliver, March 15:-- - - "I am taking things very quietly in this most quiet of all places. - There is no danger from dissipation or over-excitement, and I need - not, therefore, be apprehensive of anything like inflammation in my - wounded part. My wound is doing exceedingly well. I can now move a - little about the house with a cane." - -That very day he received orders to proceed to Savannah, Ga., with the -view of taking charge of the fortifications on the Savannah River. After -his arrival there he writes Oliver, March 27:-- - - "I am here on temporary duty for a few days, and shall return home - next week. This is to be my permanent station in the fall. The - summer I shall spend in amusing myself. A portion of it will be - passed in Andover. - - "Savannah is an old-looking, handsomely laid out, and pretty - well-built place, the most important town in the State, and the only - one having much trade. - - "Colonel Mansfield will relieve me in Bucksport during the latter - part of April, at which time I shall bid adieu to my friends in - Maine. - - "I am tolerably well pleased with my new station. It is healthy - throughout the year, and I have no doubt the change will prove - highly advantageous so far as health is concerned. - - "The duties are trifling. The large work, Fort Pulaski, is finished, - and nothing remains to be done but to prepare a bridge-head of - timber, and secure the island from overflow by the construction of - dikes. The small work, Fort Jackson, will require an expenditure of - something less than one hundred thousand dollars in the way of - enlargement and repair. - - "My duties will therefore be comparatively light. Nothing will be - doing from June to October; so I shall be able to go North - occasionally to pass the summer. - - "The people are very hospitable, and I shall make many acquaintances - before I leave. I have an old classmate just rising at the bar here, - and many officers' families reside here." - -His next letter to Oliver, from Newport, April 6, is interesting as -presenting his view of Cromwell:-- - - "I am just back from Savannah after an absence of twenty days, and - return thither to commence operations in November next. The - intermediate time will enable me to get well of my game foot, and to - pass some little time among my friends. I go down to Bucksport week - after next to turn over the public property to Colonel Mansfield, - and I shall probably be in Portland on Friday, April 21. - - "I am rather late to answer the principal thing in your letter of - the 25th ultimo. Both subjects are good. I should think that - 'Individuality of Character' would be preferable, because its - handling does not require so much reading as Cromwell. With ample - leisure for investigation, I should prefer the latter. I do not know - of a single unprejudiced authority. Foster's Statesmen of the - Commonwealth and Clarendon's History are the best I have seen. - Russell's Biography is poor and inaccurate. Hume is very - superficial. Catherine Macaulay is a great bigot. Carlyle's Cromwell - is good, because it consists principally of Cromwell's letters and - speeches. Babington Macaulay's essays on the various statesmen of - the rebellion are good. - - "I like your idea of treating the subject of individuality. The - greatest example of the influence of a strong, original character in - moulding a great people in our own history is Franklin. It was the - strong, original characters of our Revolution that achieved our - independence. The many are always ruled by a few, frequently by one, - the wise, the strong man, or men. I have found in this view many - fine ideas in Carlyle's Heroes. - - "As regards Cromwell: he and he alone achieved the overthrow of the - Stuarts. Without him there would have been no glorious restoration, - as Burke calls the expulsion of James. The French monarchy would - have still been absolute, and the French people would have still - been in chains. Cromwell was bold, direct, far-seeing, a great - governor of men. Cromwell was vastly superior in the elements of a - great man to Hampden, to Pym, to Strafford, to Vane. A bold sketch - of Cromwell's actual part in the greatest drama of English history - would be highly interesting. Dwell on his great foresight, grasp, - directness, sincerity; his boisterous youth, his religious fervor in - after years, his unswerving advocacy of the rights of his neighbors, - which caused him to be called the Lord of the Fens; his unshrinking - avowal of his opinions in his early parliamentary career; his - extraordinary sagacity in organizing his Ironsides, the greatest - soldiers of ancient or modern times; his self-denying ordinance, in - which by a bold stroke he threw half-way, indecisive men from the - army, and sent it forth to victory; his earnest efforts to settle - matters with Charles after the forces of the latter were dispersed, - and he a prisoner; his invincible opposition to all ecclesiastical - tyranny, whether presbyterian or prelatical; his part in the - execution of the king; his great Irish and Scotch campaigns, - particularly the battle of Dunbar, where his famous rallying cry, - as the sun shone through the morning clouds, 'Let God arise, and - let his enemies be scattered!' spread dismay through the ranks of - his enemies, and brought a glorious victory to his arms." - -Now he enjoyed a month of the rest he so much needed. With his wife and -little ones he occupied rooms in the old family mansion, a welcome guest -to Mrs. Benjamin Hazard and her daughters, who always regarded him with -the greatest affection and admiration. As spring opened, he took great -pleasure in making a famous garden in the spacious yard behind the -mansion, having the ground manured and cultivated in the most thorough -manner, and planting the greatest profusion of vegetables. His friend -Mason was also in Newport, recovering from his wound, and many were the -accounts and discussions had with him and Mr. Brooks and other congenial -spirits of the stirring scenes of the war. - -Major Stevens was fully convinced of the justice and necessity of the -Mexican war. The repeated depredations by Mexico upon Americans, and her -long-continued refusal or evasion of all redress; her publicly declared -purpose of conquering the republic of Texas after its independence had -been established and acknowledged for ten years; her arrogant demand -that the United States should not admit Texas to the Union, and her -still more arrogant threat that she would regard such admission as an -act of war; the departure of her minister from Washington; and the -breaking off of all friendly relations instantly upon the passage by -Congress of the resolution admitting the Lone Star State,--left no -alternative but to bring the inflated and treacherous pronunciamientos -to terms by force of arms, since they were amenable neither to justice -nor reason, and to "conquer a peace" which even they would have to -respect. And, glorious as were her arms, not less creditable were the -moderation and magnanimity of the Great Republic, when Mexico, her -armies destroyed, her capital taken, lay prostrate, in paying a large -indemnity for the far-distant and almost tenantless regions of New -Mexico and California, which, while ready to fall from Mexico's feeble -grasp, were essential to the expansion of the populous and fast-growing -Republic of the North. - -In the latter part of May he visited Boston and Andover with his little -son. - -The following month the Savannah orders were countermanded, the Engineer -Department deeming it best that he should continue in charge of Fort -Knox, and the other works in Maine and New Hampshire. - -After a preliminary visit, he moved his family again to Bucksport, in -June, and occupied a cottage at the fort opposite the town. - -He gathered about him his former assistants, A.W. Tinkham and John Lee, -and continued in charge of the works for upwards of five years. - -Having a strong desire to own a home of his own, he purchased a house, -with a generous lot of half an acre, overlooking the river. The house -was of two stories, seven rooms, with a barn in the rear connected by a -woodshed. The principal wharf was at the foot of the street, and here -Major Stevens kept his boat. The house had an ill repute as being -unhealthy, some of the former inmates having died from consumption. When -cautioned on this score, he replied: "It is high time some one took the -house who can give it a good reputation." He had the cellar and grounds -thoroughly drained, sunk a well, blasting through a ledge of rock, and -put the grounds and garden in fine order. He took great pains with, and -pleasure in, the garden, raising all kinds of vegetables. They kept -poultry also, and among them was a flock of twelve ducklings that every -day solemnly waddled down to the river in single file, and as solemnly -waddled up the hill again after their daily bath and paddling in the -river, an unceasing source of interest and pleasure to the children. - -The government was contemplating the fortification of the more important -points on the Pacific coast, and to an inquiry as to his willingness to -be sent to that distant field, he writes the following characteristic -reply:-- - - "As regards engineer duty on the Pacific coast for a year or two, I - should be well pleased with it did I feel certain that I was - physically in condition to undertake it. If the passage thither - should be an easy one, as mostly by sea, I have little doubt that on - my arrival at the scene of my duties my lameness would be - essentially gone. If the journey should be overland, I should hardly - be able to bear the fatigues of it in less than two or three months. - If ordered, I should go _without hesitation_, and do the best I - could. I must leave this matter entirely with you. No officer should - feel at liberty to decline a distant duty of this kind, and in this - case, as in all others, let the public interests alone have weight." - -Ambitious he was, but with a lofty ambition, not to aggrandize himself, -but to serve his country, ever ready to sacrifice personal interests and -feelings to the public service. In this and other letters he displays a -certain impatience that personal convenience or interests should be -consulted at all in matters of public duty. - -When the brevets were announced, Lieutenant Stevens was brevetted -"Captain, August 20, 1847, for gallant and meritorious conduct in the -battles of Contreras and Churubusco," and "Major, September 13, 1847, -for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battle of Chapultepec." - -He took great pains to secure justice to all the engineer officers in -the way of brevets, conceiving that he was in a measure responsible -therefor because, as adjutant of the corps in Mexico, the engineer -reports had been made through him; he had had charge of the records, and -had been closely consulted by the chief, General Totten, and spent no -little time and effort in behalf of those who had been overlooked. - -The engineers felt themselves treated with injustice in the matter of -brevet pay, for while the officers of artillery, cavalry, and infantry -were allowed full pay when assigned to duty according to their brevet -rank, the former were denied the same right, although frequently placed -in charge of works and assigned to duties above their nominal rank. They -had other grievances, too, in the allowances for rations, horses, etc. -One so disinterested and indefatigable in behalf of his corps and -brother officers as Major Stevens would be sure to be often called upon. -He took great interest in these matters, and even more in the general -reorganization of the army, upon which he corresponded and consulted -largely with able and public-spirited young officers of other corps as -well as his own. - -It was not until November that his friend and classmate, Lieutenant J.F. -Gilmer, relieved him of the vouchers and papers relating to Savannah -forts. Writing from Washington, November 6, Gilmer says: "Captain Fred. -A. Smith would like much to have you here this winter. It is possible -you may do the corps a great service by being in Washington this -winter." - -A call for service in any direction always appealed strongly to him, and -accordingly he determined to visit Washington, as he writes his brother -Oliver, under date of Bucksport, December 8, 1848. This letter displays -a humorous vein not usual with him, and gives his view of the character -and public policy of General Taylor, then just elected President:-- - - MY DEAR BROTHER,--I rejoice to learn that you are still in the land - of the living, and that that severe and noble pursuit, the law, does - not prevent your seeing the lions of the town. But you are very - cruel to triumph over us benighted creatures in this region of - frosts and snows. In truth we lead a quiet, rational, country life, - perhaps as much to be envied as the more attractive life of the - great city. I wish you, however, distinctly to understand that we do - not suck our paws during the winter, and I feel bound to disabuse - you of this misapprehension. That is done still farther down East, I - believe. We do not sleep more than twelve or at most fourteen hours - a day. We manage to eat three meals per day. But it is hard work; - they approximate rather too closely. We drink tea nights, and eat - apples mornings. We get the newspapers generally every day, and - expect to read the Message to-morrow. By way of diversion, we slide - down hill on a moonlight evening. Then there are prayer and - conference meetings _ad libitum_. What a consolation these latter - privileges would be to one of your serious turn of mind! I can - almost see your grave countenance lighted up with heavenly radiance - on such an occasion. - - By the bye, I hope to see you in about four weeks, as I pass on to - Washington. There I shall probably remain till after the - inauguration. I find in the election of General Taylor the great - fact indicated that we poor devils in the army are citizens of the - country, and eligible to civil offices of trust. I should have voted - most cordially for General Cass, had I a vote to throw. His election - I vastly preferred. But there has been in this canvass a vast deal - of nonsense about the camp not being the place to find our - Presidents, and I am much mistaken if General Taylor, in his own - person, does not prove a happy instance of the mingling of military - and administrative ability. And those miserable hacks of party, who - have sought to depreciate his military services and talents, have - now the consolation to reflect that their efforts at detraction - served to promote his election, as it did that of General Harrison. - - "I unhesitatingly believe that General Taylor will administer the - government in an able, impartial, and patriotic manner, and if - during his presidency an emergency arises, he will prove a - hero-President as he has proved a hero-soldier. The Democratic party - ought not to prejudge him. Let them maintain a firm attitude in - Congress, and keep well organized everywhere. The Whigs cannot carry - any of their favorite measures through Congress for two years at - least. We may then have a Democratic Congress, and, my word for it, - there will be no collision between such a Congress and General - Taylor. On that great cluster of questions, the public lands, the - encouragement and protection of distant settlements, the development - of the great Pacific coast, the old man will be right. If the - Democratic party will show candor and liberality towards General - Taylor, he may be their nominee four years from this time." - -As one result of his visit to Washington, Major Stevens took hold of the -brevet pay question in his usual thoroughgoing and indefatigable manner. -He first corresponded with every brevetted officer of the corps whom he -had not already consulted personally. Having thus learned their views, -he prepared a strong memorial on the subject, which, after being -submitted to, and warmly approved by, Colonels Thayer and Mansfield and -Major Tower, was sent to all the officers for their signatures. And in -July he transmitted the memorial to General Totten, signed by every -brevetted officer of the corps save one, with an urgent letter asking -his interposition with the War Department in their behalf. - -It was the intention, in case the department denied the application, to -appeal to Congress, but the manifest justice of the cause as presented -was unanswerable. The department, after some doubts, concluded that it -had the necessary authority under the law regulating brevet pay, and at -length the engineers were placed on an equality with the other arms in -this respect. His brother officers conceded that the gratifying triumph -was due to the well-directed and persistent efforts of Major Stevens, -and showered upon him their warm thanks and applause. This success, -however, was followed by more and more frequent applications from them -and others for assistance and advice in their own personal matters. He -never failed to expend his thought, energy, and time in every deserving -case as promptly and freely as, ay, far more than, if he was working for -himself, and he never shunned, nor complained of, these gratuitous -tasks, which in the next few years became a great burden, but always -seemed to take real pleasure and satisfaction in helping others, even -many who had little or no claim upon him. - -In April writes Captain George B. McClellan, who was stationed at West -Point with the engineer company, an urgent appeal to Major Stevens to -use his influence to have the company ordered away from the Point, and -to Fort Schuyler:-- - - MY DEAR STEVENS,--The detachment of artillery (laborers) stationed - here are to be transferred to the engineer company,--at least so - many as may be necessary to fill up the company. On our company then - will it devolve to do all the police of the Point, to make the - roads, drive the carts, feed the oxen, work in the blacksmith and - carpenter shops, etc., etc.,--in plain terms, the engineer company - is destroyed; it has become a company of mud-diggers; it will no - longer be an engineer company, for it will be impossible to do - military duty, and no instruction in the duties of engineer troops - can be given them. The object of the whole business is to get - Shover's company of light artillery ordered on here, and we are - sacrificed to attain that object. - - This is a matter that concerns equally all the officers of our - corps. We are disgraced if this order is allowed to remain in force, - and I beg of you to use whatever influence you may possess in - Washington to have the order rescinded, and the company ordered away - from here. I am in haste, - - Truly your friend, - GEORGE B. MCCLELLAN. - -Partly in response to this letter, but more to express his own views as -to the true policy in regard to engineer troops, Major Stevens writes at -length to General Totten. It is characteristic that he does not treat -the matter from McClellan's narrow, personal standpoint, but at once -elevates the whole subject to a discussion of the requirements of the -service. After referring to his intimate association with the engineer -company in its organization and in Mexico, he continues:-- - - "I think every one owes something to his profession. Something is - due to my profession, not inferior certainly in dignity to any - other. I would endeavor to discharge it according to my ability. It - will be in this spirit that I shall submit the following - observations. In this spirit will I from time to time communicate - with the department on this and other topics appertaining to the - noble profession of arms, not doubting that my suggestions will be - kindly received. - - "By law, the engineer company is restricted to one hundred men, a - number entirely inadequate even to the duties of peace.... The - remedy I would propose is this: Let the utmost care be exercised in - enlisting men. Let no man be enlisted who cannot in due course of - time be made a non-commissioned officer. Let there be in no case - transfers from other branches of the service. Let the whole strength - of the officers of the company be applied to discipline and instruct - the men, so that in time of need we shall have a band of splendid - non-commissioned officers, the peers of Everett and Hastings and - Starr,--men who have received commissions for their gallant services - in Mexico, and each of whom, had Smith and McClellan and Foster - fallen, could have gloriously led on the company to its duty. - - "I would propose a complete system of practical instruction six or - seven months of the year, sapping, mining, and pontooneering, and - the whole subject of field-works, at some suitable place, say Fort - Schuyler, and a course of theoretical instruction the remaining five - months, embracing an elementary course of mathematics (including - drawing, surveying, and the use of instruments) and of engineering. - There should also be a good general and military library. As regards - the library, the corps could be applied to for aid, if necessary. I - will for one, and I doubt not many officers would, liberally make - donations. - - "Even if the engineer arm were increased to four companies, which I - trust will be done the next session of Congress, I would recommend - this course. The fine practical education which would thus be - secured would induce men to enlist. And we shall have the - satisfaction that in the next war with England, and when the - question is to besiege Montreal, Quebec, and Halifax, our four - companies can be soon converted into twenty companies." - -Ever since his return from Mexico, Major Stevens was deeply interested -in the reorganization of the army. Even while so vigorously fighting for -his corps in the matter of brevet pay, in discussions and correspondence -with Mansfield, Mason, Tower, G.W. Smith, F.A. Smith, Beauregard, Hunt, -and others, after disposing of this particular grievance he would -enlarge upon the reorganization of the whole army, giving his own ideas, -and urging them as a patriotic duty, not as members of any corps, but -from the standpoint of the whole army, to prepare memoirs, or letters, -giving their views. - -He advocated an organization that would admit of fourfold extension in -case of war; the keeping of at least one third of the troops in camps of -drill and instruction in order to maintain the highest degree of -military knowledge and discipline; and the raising of the standard of -the rank and file, attracting thereby American-born young men as -soldiers by increased pay, better instruction, and greater opportunities -for advancement, even to conferring commissions in meritorious cases. -These letters and replies, particularly a memoir by Hunt (afterwards the -distinguished general, Henry J. Hunt, chief of artillery of the Army of -the Potomac), are full of interest and instruction. The army, with all -the improvements adopted in recent years, has not yet reached the -standard set by these patriotic and able young officers fifty years ago. -How Major Stevens followed up these preliminary efforts will appear -hereafter. - - - - - CHAPTER XIII - - COAST SURVEY - - -During the summer Professor A.D. Bache, the distinguished scientist, -chief of the United States Coast Survey, found himself obliged to obtain -a new "assistant in charge of the Coast Survey Office," the second -position on the survey, in place of Captain A.A. Humphreys, of the -topographical engineers, who under the labors of that office had become -broken down in health and was obliged to relinquish it. It was no light -tribute to the rising reputation of Major Stevens that so wise and -sagacious a man as Professor Bache, and so excellent a judge of men, -should have selected him out of the whole army as his right-hand -assistant and executive officer. He tendered the position, August 7, in -a letter well calculated to appeal to a patriotic and ambitious young -man, dwelling upon the important character of the duties of the office, -and the opportunities it afforded "to build up a name for executive -ability," and "to reflect credit upon the corps," etc., and stating that -the chief engineer (General Totten was an intimate friend of Professor -Bache) would look favorably upon his acceptance. - -At first Major Stevens was disposed to decline the post; but after -several interviews with Professor Bache in Cambridge and Boston, he -reluctantly decided to accept it, but upon condition that he should -retain charge of the Bucksport works in addition to the new position for -a year longer, with the right then to retain either the Coast Survey or -Fort Knox, as he might prefer, and relinquish the other. This unique -condition, by which an officer about to undertake new and arduous duties -stipulated to retain also his former ones, thus voluntarily adding to -his labors instead of diminishing them, was at once accepted by -Professor Bache and agreed to by the engineer department, a convincing -proof of the esteem in which he was held by both. - -The concluding part of the following letter to his brother Oliver shows -that it was the wider field for his energies and ambition, the better -opportunities for service and for putting in force his ideas of -reorganizing the army, of performing his "duty to his profession," that -really caused him to accept the onerous position:-- - - MY DEAR BROTHER,--I am ready at once to give you a decided opinion - as to the course you should pursue, and I know it will be in - accordance with your own judgment. - - Remain in Cambridge a year and a half longer. Then go to Boston. - Throw yourself into the arena of the strongest men in the State. - Contend with strong men, the stronger the better, and rise above - them all. - - I have watched your progress with the anxiety and tender solicitude - which an older brother must feel in a younger and only brother. This - is one of the turning-points of your life. - - I have not the slightest doubt, in one year from being admitted to - the bar, you will be able to marry and have a home of your own. - - Don't trouble yourself about the cost. If things go right with me - here, I have no doubt I shall be able to let you have, from July, - '50, to July, '51, all you will require. - - I write with the earnestness of deep conviction. I am proud of your - talents, but you have a weight of character which gives to talent - its force. Let me hear from you soon. I beg of you not to give way - to despondency, and the least as to the bold course I have - indicated. - - You and I both do best by taking bold, self-relying courses. I never - once failed in my life from the boldness of my course. You will not. - - I feel I have come to Washington at the right time. The Coast Survey - _needs me_ to overhaul it. I feel that the army has a representative - in me which it has not had in Washington in years. I know my - position,--my strength,--and I swear by the Eternal, to use - Jackson's expression, I will put it forth. - -In the following he gives his views on Coast Survey and other matters. - - WASHINGTON, D.C., October 22, 1849. - - MY DEAR BROTHER,--To-day I enter upon my duties. I see no particular - difficulty. There is no need of being a mere office drudge. All the - work can be done without any one's breaking down. The Coast Survey - is a large operation, and the charge of the office here can be made - an agreeable duty. The responsibility will be considerable. But all - details can be thrown upon subordinates. The fact is, the work in - the world has got to be done. But it can be done by proper - distribution and arrangement in an easy, quiet manner. This will be - my study in my new duties. - - We shall have a great session of Congress the coming winter. The - whole subject of our communications with the Pacific will be - discussed, railroad and ship canal across the Isthmus,--railroad - through our own border. I have no doubt Congress will direct the - necessary explorations and surveys to determine the practicability - of the various schemes. - - I am now boarding at a private house. But in a few days I shall - occupy rooms, and take my meals at one of the public houses. This is - the favorite mode with gentlemen that can afford it. A good parlor - with sleeping-room adjoining, in a good situation, will cost me - twenty-five dollars per month, the rooms being furnished, and - provided with fuel, light, and attendance. And board simply, at the - best public houses, will cost about twenty dollars more. This mode - of living is free and easy. You go into retiracy when you choose, - and can again at any moment mingle with the crowd. - - I am becoming acquainted with our Maine and Massachusetts - congressmen. Duncan, of Haverhill, I find quite an agreeable - gentleman. Hamlin, one of the Maine senators, seems to be quite a - clever fellow. Maine, however, has a mediocre representation in both - branches. I was present last evening at a reception at the White - House. The President looks hardy, and as though he would survive the - attacks that are being made upon him. His nonchalance is by many - mistaken for vacuity. The old man has an iron will and most - inflexible resolution, and I assure my Democratic friends, who say - that he is in the keeping of others, that before his four years are - through they will be convinced of it. Take my opinion for what it is - worth, brother Oliver. - - The Democrats, as regards General Taylor, are pursuing the very - course to reëlect him. What did the Whigs gain by representing - General Jackson to be in leading-strings? Can't we learn from our - enemies? - -The Coast Survey Office was indeed "a large operation." All the maps, -charts, computations, drawings, printing, engravings, instrument-making, -and business administration of the survey were done here under the -management and supervision of the assistant in charge. The force -immediately under him comprised from sixty to seventy persons, including -several army officers. The office occupied a large brick block of houses -on New Jersey Avenue, corner of B Street, the house at the northeast end -being the residence of the professor. The Coast Survey now occupies the -other end of the same square. - -The first step taken by the new chief was to organize the force into -separate bureaus, each under a responsible head, and performing a -particular branch of the work. This had not yet been done, although the -difficulty, or impossibility, of the head of the office personally -directing and supervising so many employees singly, and the details of -such multifarious and complicated work, was daily becoming more evident, -and doubtless was the prime cause of Captain Humphreys's breakdown. - - "On entering on my duties," he remarks in his first report, "I saw - at once that my only hope of filling the situation, with - satisfaction to the survey and to myself, was in at once applying my - exertions to enlarging and adapting the organization of the office - to the increasing wants of the survey. The office work would - necessarily increase for two or three years without any increase of - field work. But it was manifest that the field work of the survey - itself must increase, and thus involve a still greater increase of - office work." - -Accordingly he established the Departments of Engraving, Drawing, -Computing, Publication and Distribution of Maps, Archives and Library, -and Correspondence. To these were soon added Electro-plating, Printing, -and Instrument-making. The best-fitted men were selected from the force, -or new assistants were employed and put in charge of the departments. -The arrears of work were rapidly brought up; the geographical data were -collected and indexed; the registry of land work was improved; volumes -of observations were bound; and the register, two years behind, was -brought up to date. In his first report, the new assistant in charge -announced that the Drawing Department would be up to the wants of the -survey in one year, and made many useful recommendations for the -improvement of the service. - -Professor Bache warmly acknowledged the efficiency of his young -assistant in his reports. December 5, 1851, he declares:-- - - "For the development of the plans of office work, the urging to - completion the list of geographical positions, and the increased - rapidity of publication, the Coast Survey is indebted mainly to the - zeal and industry, guided by knowledge and intelligence, of - Brevet-Major Isaac I. Stevens, of the corps of engineers, in - acknowledging which, in connection with the remarks on the speedy - completion of the results of the survey, I feel that I am doing - simply an act of justice. - - "Every department of the office has, under his able supervision, - continued to improve, and has filled the full measure required by - the increasing number, amount, and variety of results returned by - the field work of the coast. It is due to Major Stevens to - acknowledge the promptness which is secured in the publication of - results, and the maturing of a system by which sketches and - preliminary work of charts are made in every case to precede the - more finished work, furnishing valuable results to the navigator as - soon as obtained by the survey. - - "The rapid execution of the engraved charts of the Western coast - reconnoissance is a proof of the perfection of this organization, - and of the zeal of those who administer it. Three well-executed - sheets of reconnoissance were engraved and ready for publication - within twenty working days after the beginning of the engraving." - -During Captain Humphreys's illness the work had fallen greatly in -arrears; many of the employees had become careless and idle, some of -them dissipated; and great disorder and confusion prevailed. It was -common report that the Coast Survey was the worst-conducted office in -Washington. Major Stevens set himself to correct this state of things -with a vigor, at times a severity, that admitted no delay and brooked no -opposition. Strict punctuality, prompt compliance with orders, and -complete and exact performance of duty, he required and exacted with -military discipline. There was great discontent and indignation among -the old officers and employees, and no little ridicule at the idea of -the young major enforcing army rule in a scientific institution. Even -the professor feared he was carrying it too far, and rather pettishly -remarked, "Since Major Stevens took hold, there has been a continual -jingling of bells all over the building, but I suppose it won't do to -interfere with these army officers." It seems that Major Stevens had -caused bells to be placed in the various offices with wires running to -his own room, so that he could summon his subordinates without delay -when he wished to see them. - -But the new assistant pursued the course he had marked out unswervingly, -without fear and without favor. He summarily dismissed several of the -worst offenders. Others he degraded in pay or position. He made himself -master of every branch and detail of that great institution. The old -computers, engravers, draughtsmen, topographers, and others, who had -passed years in the office, were astonished to find that the new chief -fully understood their technical work, and was watching, criticising, -and directing it with expert skill and judgment. As usual, he took a -warm interest in the men under his charge, ever ready to encourage and -reward the deserving, and to assist them in their personal affairs. He -caused one of the messengers, who had lost both arms in an explosion, to -learn to write with his foot, and gave him copying to do to eke out his -scanty pay. One of the higher employees was addicted to periodical -attacks of intemperance utterly beyond his power to resist, but -otherwise was a respectable and useful man. Major Stevens quietly told -this gentleman to come to him whenever he felt one of these attacks -coming on too strong for him to withstand, and he should have a leave of -absence for a few days, enough to have, and recover from, his spree, and -on this footing he continued on the survey for years. - -Under his firm, masterful, and exacting but generous treatment the -outraged feelings of the office soon changed. They could not but respect -a chief who, if he required good and full work, appreciated and -acknowledged it; and their respect changed to admiration, and finally to -affection, when they saw how he was building up the efficiency and -reputation of the office, and realized that his strict rule was -characterized by justice and impartiality, and tempered by the kindness -of a warm-hearted and generous man. Professor Bache found in his new -assistant not only relief from the cares of the office and of -administration, but one whose ideas in most subjects agreed with his -own, and whose strong, bright, and well-instructed mind could travel -with his own through other fields. A warm and generous friendship grew -up between them, which lasted unbroken during life. - -The task he had undertaken at the Coast Survey made this a very -laborious winter for Major Stevens, but one that gratified his ambition -for public service. He met many of his brother officers, "the men of -Mexico," and discussed with them the questions of army reorganization, -fortifications, etc. He also made the acquaintance of members of -Congress, and freely impressed upon them his views of these measures. -General Shields was now a senator from Illinois, and was always ready to -adopt and advocate the ideas of the young major of engineers, and was -glad of his aid in preparing his reports and bills. Always and -emphatically a national man, believing that the preservation of the -Union was essential to liberty and national existence, Major Stevens -took great interest in the compromise measures so ably carried through -by Henry Clay, in support of which Webster delivered his noted 7th of -March speech, and fully approved the measures of these great statesmen -to allay sectional strife and preserve the Union. - -The plans and hopes of the Southern leaders were cruelly disappointed by -the action of California, which adopted a free constitution, and knocked -at the doors of Congress for admission as a free State. Consequently -they refused her admission unless additional safeguards were thrown -around the "peculiar institution," as slavery was termed; and many of -the fire-eaters openly advocated disunion as the only means of -preserving it against the free ideas of the North, and the -preponderating increase of free States. For a time the difference seemed -irreconcilable, and disunion and civil war imminent; but at length, by -the wise counsels of Clay, Webster, and the more broad-minded men of -both sides, a compromise was effected, and California entered the Union -a free State. - -The old Puritan in Andover, in his abhorrence of slavery, condemned all -compromise, and writes the son he so much loved and admired a pathetic -and reproachful letter, marked, too, by a sublime faith in the ultimate -triumph of right:-- - - DEAR SON,--I have been confined to the house since the 22d of last - November, but am now very well, excepting a weak leg. I have thought - much of my daughters during my sickness, especially of the two - youngest, who were ever ready to wait upon me by night or day.... I - was sorry you should so much commend D. Webster's speech, and - thought no man could commend it who was opposed to slavery. I do - think Webster to be a demagogue; that he is so lost to every good - principle as to court slaveholders' approbation, and vote shame on - the descendants of the men of '75. - - I believe the great Being who rules the destinies of nations has - ordained that we remain united, that we extend the area of freedom, - not slavery, that other nations may copy our example,--too late in - the day for Liberty to take a backward march in our country, however - much she may swing to and fro in the old country. - - ISAAC STEVENS. - -His wife and family remained in Bucksport during the winter, not wishing -to break up the comfortable home until he decided to remain on the Coast -Survey permanently. Early in April he visited Bucksport, where, on the -28th of that month, a daughter was born to them, named Gertrude Maude. - -This winter Major Stevens's wound broke out afresh, and discharged -several small fragments of bone, causing considerable suffering and much -inconvenience. This recurred several times during his stay in -Washington, and it was over four years before the wound permanently -healed. Sometimes, when walking, his foot would give out entirely, and -he would have to hail the nearest omnibus or carriage. He used to wear a -shoe with very thick soles, which best protected and served the injured -member. - -A letter to Professor Bache, written from Newport while on his way to -Bucksport, shows that he had decided at this time to relinquish the -Coast Survey, a decision which he afterwards reconsidered:-- - - ... "In Baltimore I met Colonel Lee and Captain Foster. Colonel Lee - was kind enough to go over my article on the Mexican war. His - suggestions and criticisms will very much improve the article. The - colonel thinks I have made a mistake in determining not to remain on - the survey. - - "I saw General Scott in New York. He went over many of the - operations in the valley, and you may be assured it was a great - pleasure for me to meet my old chief. - - "I need not say to you how very gratifying to me was your letter in - reply to mine communicating my intention to retire from the survey; - and in answer to the concluding paragraph, you may rely upon me to - do all in my power to respond to your wishes. I have been growing - stronger every day since I left Washington. I hope to return in - condition to do more satisfactory service than was in my power for - some weeks previous to my leaving." - -So it would seem that his hard work and close application were telling -upon his health and strength. - -In the spring he moved his family to Newport for the summer. In August -he paid off four hundred dollars of the debt on the Bucksport house. -Plain, simple, and even frugal in personal habits and expenses, and -careful in money matters, he saved this sum from his pay. Yet he never -cared for money-making; and notwithstanding the straitened circumstances -of early life, and the lessons of economy so diligently inculcated by -his father, he was very generous, a free giver, a great provider, and -inclined to spend money freely. - -He was obliged to spend most of the summer in Washington, making -occasional visits North to look after the Bucksport works and see his -family. He now definitely decided to stay on the Coast Survey. After a -short visit at Newport in August, he returned to Washington, and spent -no little time during the next month in hunting up suitable quarters. -How thoroughly sick and tired he was of being separated from his wife -and children; how he longed to live united with them; how lofty and -noble were his ideals of woman, of marriage, of duty, of ambition; and -what success he was gaining on the survey,--are graphically depicted in -his letters to his wife:-- - - WASHINGTON, September 5, 1850. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--I began to-day seeking for a boarding-house. I - find great objection is made to children coming to table. I think a - great deal of our children taking their meals with us, and I think I - had rather go to the second table myself than to be deprived of the - pleasure.... - - I regret I did not remain a week longer. I found on reaching - Washington that there was no necessity for my hurrying back. We - should all of us have enjoyed the bathing. It is mighty lonesome - here, particularly from sundown till about eight in the morning. It - spoils a man on some accounts to be married, particularly if he gets - a good, lovable wife. He is not good for much away from her. I - assure you I will never be separated from you again another winter - unless it is an absolute impossibility for us to be together. We are - young, and let us not renounce the comfort and support of each - other's society unless the necessity is imperative. I know you will - say amen to this.... - - - WASHINGTON, Saturday, September 6, 1850. - - MY DEAR WIFE,--... A devoted, loving, tender, sympathizing wife is - the greatest element of my success in life. It adds to my strength - in all respects. Think of this, Margaret. If I achieve what may be - truly called success, it will be due mainly to you. I have no desire - for place, or wealth, or station. But should I do something for my - kind, should it be said of me when I am gone that the world owes - something to my memory, that my fellow-men are happier and better - for my labors, this is what I call success. It can be achieved only - by constancy, by nobility of purpose, by a self-sacrificing spirit. - Your example and your affection for me will help me to cultivate - these virtues. - - Yesterday the House passed by ten votes the Texas Boundary and the - New Mexico Territorial Bill. You cannot imagine the gratulation - which was shown by all persons, both in and out of Congress, when - the result was announced. The feeling was that all the danger which - had menaced us had been averted. If necessary, a great many members - would have changed their votes. On Wednesday the measure was - defeated by a majority of forty-six votes; on Thursday by a majority - of eight votes; and yesterday it passed by a majority of ten. All - the other measures will be rapidly pushed through, and Congress will - rise early next month. - - In my judgment the most dangerous crisis that has occurred since the - foundation of the government has been happily passed. Henry Clay has - been throughout the master spirit of the times. His services the - present session are enough to immortalize his name. It is the - crowning triumph of his civic life, and he will descend to posterity - as one of the heroes and benefactors of his age and generation. He - has not his peer in Congress. No man that combines his intrepid - soul, his extended views, his large American heart, his admirable - tact and presence of mind, and that quality of leadership which - enables him through doubt and defection, in spite of unexpected - difficulties and notwithstanding repeated defeats, to undauntedly - pursue his course and finally achieve the ultimate triumph. This is - Henry Clay in his seventy-fifth year. He has not his peer in our - whole parliamentary history. - - Sunday, September 8. Yesterday the California and Utah bills passed - the House. Last evening a salute of one hundred guns was fired, and - a large multitude assembled in front of the National to listen to a - serenade to Henry Clay. But the glorious old man had gone out to - enjoy a quiet Sunday in the country, and was not to be seen. - - Little Sue must, I know, miss me very much. She is a great pet of - mine. I never feel as if I could be put out with her, let her be - ever so whimsical. Tell Sue she shall see her papa in a few weeks, - and then we shall keep together for many months. Our long - separation, dearest wife, is drawing to a close, and we shall be - again united. My last visit was an oasis in the desert. - - I saw the doctor in relation to my sore throat. He says it has very - much improved. The only precaution I must take is not to expose - myself to the night air. My general health is quite good, and is - still growing even better. My foot gives me very little trouble. It - has not been so strong for eight months as for the last ten days. I - now am not obliged to make much use of the crutches. You may be sure - I feel very much encouraged about my health, and I have no fears as - to its being perfectly reëstablished. I eat well, sleep well, and am - not worried by work. Remember me, my dear wife, to all the friends. - Kiss the little Sue and Maude. - - Your ever affectionate husband. - - - WASHINGTON, September 29, 1850. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--You must not think I have forgotten you. I have - been very much occupied the last few days. Our appropriations were - in danger, and both Professor Bache and myself have been hard at - work to save them. We have carried everything,--secured no less than - one hundred and ninety thousand dollars for the Western coast. - - A portion of this appropriation we carried in the House in the teeth - of the Committee of Ways and Means. They opposed it vehemently, yet - we went to work on Friday, worked hard all day, and carried it two - to one nearly against them. - - The professor is in one respect a most skillful manager, but his - skill consists in his perfect directness, truthfulness, - disinterestedness, and good temper. He is perfectly frank and open. - Margaret, such men have most influence with all men of sense, - whether members of Congress, or men in official station, or in - private life. This is the secret of his getting along so well. You - know I have always insisted that such a course was the most sure and - reliable. You stand on the solid rock, and nothing can move you when - you cast aside all intrigue and low cunning, and pursue an open, - truthful, manly course. Cunning men cannot cope with you. This is my - experience. - - My duties in the office are becoming more and more pleasant. The - office is becoming systematized, the back work is all coming up, and - in the spring I have no doubt everything will be in the best - possible condition. - - Every department is improving, and a very fine spirit pervades all - the employees. I am bringing to bear upon the men my personal - weight, and you know I rarely ever fail whenever I am brought into - direct personal contact with men. All the men are beginning to know - me. They know I am firm and steadfast, but that I am as true to them - as I am to the work itself. Every man will find that he can have - entire confidence in my justice, and in my judgment of his merits. I - am determined to be deserving of their confidence, and, if so, I - shall most assuredly gain it. - - The professor's confidence in me seems to be greater every day. This - makes my position pleasant. It makes me more efficient. My judgment - is all the clearer for it. The truth is, I take the same general - view of things that he does, and my judgment almost invariably - brings me to the same conclusions. Thus, in operating to secure our - appropriations, we agreed perfectly in the mode of proceeding. - Indeed, the professor left the management entirely to me in the - first instance. When things were prepared for him, I sent an express - to his camp to bring him in. All my arrangements entered admirably - into his plans. This was pleasant. My part was, of course, a - subordinate one, but it was in harmony with all that was done. - -In the latter part of 1849 appeared the "History of the Mexican War," by -Major Roswell S. Ripley, of the 1st artillery, who had served in Scott's -campaign, and who had been given a year's leave of absence to enable him -to write the work. The history is fairly well written, and accurate for -the most part, but marred by the constant effort to depreciate the -character and services of General Scott, and to extol Generals Worth and -Pillow at his expense. The former of these officers, a fine soldier, and -deservedly of high standing in the army and before the people, needed no -encomiums; the latter was unworthy of them. Some of Ripley's statements, -too, were deemed erroneous by many of the ablest officers who -participated in the contest, and there was a strong sentiment among them -that these errors ought to be exposed, and the truth vindicated before -the public. None felt this sentiment more strongly than Major Stevens. -An admirer of Scott's military talents, and a member of his staff during -the famous campaign, his sense of justice and truth outraged by the -attempt to disparage the general's great services, and to heap unearned -honors upon Pillow, he deemed it his duty, even in the midst of his -arduous labors at the Coast Survey, to give to the world a tame and just -account of these events, thus defending his former chief, and -vindicating the truth of history. - -He labored upon this work with his usual energy and thoroughness, -submitted it in manuscript to Mason, Mansfield, Robert E. Lee, and other -officers, by whom it was highly approved, and early in 1851 published -his "Campaigns of the Rio Grande and of Mexico." In the preface he -says:-- - - "His object in appearing before the public was to testify to the - services of those heroic officers and soldiers who were in his - judgment depreciated in the work of Major Ripley. He felt impelled - to this course by a sense of duty, and he appeals to all the actors - in those scenes to bear testimony in vindication of the truth." - -It is a strange instance of the foibles of a really great man that this -work, inspired by the noblest and most disinterested motives, and the -ablest defense of Scott's course in Mexico, was the cause of an -estrangement for years between the writer and the commander he so well -vindicated. Immediately on the publication of the book, Major Stevens -presented General Scott with a copy with his compliments, fully -expecting the warm thanks and appreciation of his former chief. To his -astonishment, a few days later General Scott returned the book by the -hands of General Totten, with the message that Major Stevens was to -observe that the leaves were still uncut, thus implying that he -disdained even to read it. This affront he offered to the officer whom -for bravery and services in Mexico he had highly commended and -recommended for brevets, whose advice he had listened to in councils of -war and followed on the battlefield, whom, hand upon his shoulder, he -had presented to the shouting multitude in Washington as 'My young -friend, Major Stevens, to whose courage and ability I owe much of my -success in Mexico,' and who was his warmest and ablest defender against -the aspersions of his enemies. - -Whether General Scott, whose overweening vanity could ill brook the -least criticism, was inflamed by some remark in the work, which seems -incredible, or whether his mind was poisoned by one of those parasites -that ever hang upon the great, is uncertain. In truth, his movements and -entire course are highly commended, and in only a few instances is he -criticised. Major Stevens pronounced his attack of Molino del Rey a -mistake, and also the not insisting upon the surrender of Chapultepec -when the armistice was granted after the battle of Churubusco. Major -Stevens was not in the least cast down by this unwarranted rebuff. He -simply pitied the foibles of the man, while he retained his admiration -for the general's military talents. He always made it a point to call -upon him on New Year's, and to show him the respect due the head of the -army. But the cordial personal relations were broken forever. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV - - LIFE IN WASHINGTON - - -In October, 1850, Major Stevens moved his wife and little ones to -Washington, and took quarters at Mrs. Kelley's on Eighteenth Street, -opposite Lafayette Square, in a large, spacious brick house, known as -the club-house. Here also lived General Talcott, of the ordnance, -Colonel Ethan Allen Hitchcock, Senator McWillie, of Mississippi, and -Representative Burt, of South Carolina, with their families, and -Commodore Matthew C. Perry, soon to become famous for opening Japan to -the commerce and intercourse of the world. The latter took a great fancy -to the little Sue, a sprightly, graceful child, and used to keep a store -of candy in his room for her especial benefit. They were all cultivated -and agreeable people, who lived together harmoniously and pleasantly, -and with social calls, receptions, and parties the winter passed off -rapidly. They enjoyed, too, the pleasant intimacy and cordial sympathy -of their Portsmouth friends, Mr. and Mrs. Hayes, and Mr. and Mrs. Coues, -who were now living in Washington. - -During this winter Major Stevens took up the fourteen years' bill, a -measure to promote lieutenants of engineers, topographical engineers, -and ordnance to the rank of captain after fourteen years' service, with -the same energy and thoroughness that characterized his efforts to -procure for officers on duty according to brevet rank the full pay of -such rank. He first induced the officers of these corps in Washington to -agree upon the proposed bill, and to unite in actively supporting it, -no small task, for there was much jealousy between them, and different -schemes for benefiting one or another corps. How he enlisted the -coöperation of officers at other stations will be seen from the -following letter to Lieutenant M.C. Meiggs, afterwards major-general and -quartermaster-general of the army:-- - - DEAR MEIGGS,--The inclosed memorial, asking that lieutenants of - engineers, topographical engineers, and ordnance be promoted to the - rank of captain after fourteen years' service, was introduced into - the Senate yesterday and referred to the Military Committee. - - We are all of us determined to do our best to get this measure - through. We are all acting with great unanimity. The idea is not to - touch the question of the increase of either corps, or the - equalization of the third corps. It is simply a measure of relief - for the old lieutenants, and we ask for it for the reasons stated in - the memorial. - - We must urge the measure especially on the ground that there is no - characteristic duty for the particular grades, but that with the - proposed promotion not only will all our captains, but many of the - lieutenants, have the same duties essentially as field officers. - - The chiefs of our three corps have been consulted and approve our - course. The Secretary of War is also favorable and advises us to - this action. General Shields will strongly support it. - - Every man must help in this business, if he approves of it. The - committee desires each officer to correspond without delay with such - members of Congress as he personally knows, and lay before them at - length the grounds why this measure of relief should become a law. - - Let me hear from you soon, and let us all put our shoulders to the - wheel. If each officer can carry conviction to the understanding of - one member of Congress, the measure will prevail. - -His friend, General Shields, then senator from Illinois, presented the -memorial and advocated the bill in the Senate with hearty goodwill. The -young major of engineers lost no suitable opportunity of impressing -other members with the justice of the measure, and his earnest and -forcible language, straightforward sincerity, and rising reputation for -character and ability made him always listened to with attention and -respect. He enjoyed the satisfaction of seeing the bill become a law in -1853, and of receiving the well-earned thanks and plaudits of his -brother officers. - -The subject of the reorganization of the army, which ever since the -Mexican war held first place in his thoughts and correspondence, now -engrossed his attention more than ever. His enlarged views, patriotic -spirit, and generous nature abhorred the personal and corps jealousies -too rife among army officers. He was emphatically an army man, not a -corps man, seeking the best for the whole army and the country, and not -the advancement of his corps or himself. Accordingly he corresponded on -this subject with officers of every branch of the service, and -especially with those who had served on the frontier; for he rightly -foresaw that the most important duties devolving upon the army would be -the exploration of the vast regions acquired by the Mexican war, and the -protection of the settlers thereon. By this correspondence he sought to -draw out and gather the views of the ablest and most experienced -officers, in order to unite them upon, and to formulate, a sound scheme -of army reorganization, and to impress it upon the country and Congress. -He wrote very many letters setting forth his own views, and urging other -officers to treat upon one or another branch of the subject, or to -pursue some line of inquiry, and called upon them freely to look up -authorities and collect information. Thus he induced Major H.J. Hunt to -prepare valuable papers upon artillery and army reorganization in -general. He begs Captain Kendrick to prepare a memoir on the New Mexico -military problem; Lieutenant-Colonel W.J. Hardee, on the defense of the -frontier; Captain G.W. Smith, on "General Camp of Discipline, where all -the army come together to learn the military art;" Captain George B. -McClellan, on engineer troops; Captain G.W. Cullum, subject of military -instruction; and others. Most of these officers responded readily and -favorably to his appeals. In the following letters his ideas are clearly -stated:-- - - MY DEAR HUNT,--We must move quietly as well as firmly in this matter - [army reorganization]. We must make up our minds to encounter a - violent opposition. The bureaucracy of Washington will probably be - against us. We should first endeavor to get their aid, at least - their neutrality in whole or in part. If they combine against - reform, we must resolve to accomplish reform in spite of them. But - time is necessary. A right direction to public opinion is necessary. - Many men in Congress, the able men, must understand the question and - be ready to act. We must first, then, enlighten public opinion, and - enlighten members of Congress. We must bide our time, and, when it - comes, act. - - Let it first, then, be stirred quietly in the army. Let a great many - officers in all good time, all discreet and sensible men, be - interested, and let them write for the papers.... - - We must work to get public men informed. I would not have the - movement partake in the slightest degree of a party character. But - we must act on the known fact that the Democratic party is the only - party that can govern the country. The Whig party is totally - incompetent. We must throw our strength chiefly on Democrats. - Douglas would be a tower of strength in the Senate. Would it not be - a good idea to address a series of letters to him, and request - _him_, if he approves of their general spirit, to publish them in - the "Washington Union"? This he could do without pledging himself to - the particular views of the letters. In the House is Fuller, of - Maine, a new member but a rising man, a particular friend of mine. - There is Bissel, of Illinois. There is Rusk, of Texas. General - Bayly, Stanton, of Tennessee, and others I might mention, are - strong, reliable men. The Southern _disunion_ men will look coldly - on all attempts to improve the army. Mr. Burt will be lukewarm. I am - somewhat fearful of Jefferson Davis. But they are both strong, good - men, and we should act on the presumption that sectional views will - not sway them from their duty. - - Yours, etc., - I.I. STEVENS. - -He urged the elevating of the _personnel_ of the army by-- - - "enlisting none but intelligent, respectable men, a fair - representation of our people, attracted by increase of pay, and by - opportunity of promotion to the grade of commissioned officer; that - by care in selecting men, by schools, by libraries, and by camps of - instruction, we can actually make of the common soldier a pretty - good military man, so that going into civil life he may do good - service in the militia, and in time of war be an important element - in rapidly organizing armies. In this way the influence of West - Point can be felt throughout the length and breadth of the land, in - peace as well as on the breaking out of a war. It should be a - settled principle to officer the infantry and mounted regiments in - part from the rank and file. I know of no measure which is so - calculated to elevate the service, and impart to it a greater - efficiency. Young men of character would enter it, and our own - citizens would fill up the ranks. - - "Commanding officers on the frontiers should have entire discretion - in matters of clothing, subsistence, and transportation. Officers of - the administrative departments would in this case make their usual - returns and reports to their chiefs in Washington. But the - directions from Washington should be to the commander, and should be - of the most general character; else there will be divided, - discordant government, there will be a want of unity of purpose, - there will be feebleness and delays in action. It may be said that - this involves great judgment, energy, and foresight on the part of - the commanding officer. Undoubtedly, and none but officers of high - qualities should be placed in command. This is one of the most - important duties in the direction of affairs at Washington. Send the - most competent man to take command. Throw the responsibility upon - him. _Build him up_, or _break him down_. In the latter case, - promptly supply his place by another officer." - -He also suggested planting military colonies:-- - - "Farmers and artisans to be enlisted, heads of families as well as - young men, all intelligent, sober, moral men, at advanced rates of - pay, and with their families be located at important points in the - Indian country, the whole to be organized in a military manner; - heads of families as the stationary infantry force, and the young - men as the dragoon force, always in the saddle, and making up in - mobility for paucity of numbers. - - "I know well some of the prominent members of the Military - Committee. My opinion is sometimes asked, and I wish to communicate - sound, practical views. Here I am, and in my intercourse with - members of Congress I intend to be, an _army_ man and not a _corps_ - man. Let me tell you that truthful, intelligent officers have weight - with Congress. The prominent members will give heed to their - suggestions, and will be apt to adopt their views. There is a strong - feeling in Congress that things are not managed rightly. Officers - here must not only show what things are managed well; they must also - show wherein things are _mis_managed, and they must suggest the - remedy. It is time for officers having a common purpose to act - together, and do something for their profession. I am at all events - determined to do my duty. If we will act in concert, compare views - in a fraternal and generous spirit, merging the _arm_ in the _army_, - and taking views as large as our country, and occupying the whole - ground of the public defense, and thus come to conclusions, we shall - be right, and Congress will act accordingly, I care not what - opposition be made in interested quarters." - -In a letter to Captain G.W. Smith, he declares-- - - "that the experience of our corps is too confined in time of peace, - and that a portion ought to serve with troops in the West. This has - always been my opinion, and the first year I entered the army I - corresponded with Halleck in relation to it, and was in favor of a - strong effort being made by our officers to get a change in our - duties.... Were I not tied up on the Coast Survey as I am, I would - make a great effort to get ordered to New Mexico or Texas. There is - a field for such of us as will go there with a determination to - carve one out, if it is not, in consequence of the stupidity of - superiors, offered us." - -Major Stevens followed up this subject with great diligence, expending a -vast amount of thought and work upon it for three years, and until the -engrossing duties of the exploration of the Northern route to the -Pacific in 1853, and of the governorship of Washington Territory, the -making of Indian treaties, and the conduct of the Indian war in the -Pacific Northwest occupied his whole time and energies. Some of his -ideas bore fruit, and have since been adopted, notably the raising of -the standard of the rank and file by increasing the pay of the private -soldier, improving his opportunities, and allowing him to compete for a -commission. And the thoroughgoing and comprehensive plan he suggested of -deciding upon the best system of national defense by the study and -conferring together of the ablest military men, the appeal to patriotic -and intelligent citizens, and the enlightening of public opinion, is as -wise and practical now as then, and as necessary. For the dear-bought -experience of our four great wars is entirely unheeded, indeed almost -unknown to the mass of the people; and the army to-day, in organization -as in numbers, in its influence upon the military ideas and aptitudes of -the nation in peace as in its capacity for expansion in time of war, is -inadequate to our needs as a great nation. - -Upon this subject the following characteristic letter of McClellan is of -interest:-- - - Friday. - - MY DEAR STEVENS,--The inclosed are the result of a search through - the libraries of the War and Eng'r Dep'ts. I hardly feel satisfied - that they are precisely what you need. - - If they do not suit you, inform me of it, and I will gladly renew - the research. - - I had another conversation with the general this morning about the - sappers. It's of no use whatever,--his mind is made up to detail - fifty men on the Coast Survey. He says the duty I propose for them - in Texas is not legitimate and belongs not to them. Amen! I have - said my say. I've done what I could. Some one of more influence than - I possess must convince him,--my words are idle breath and of no - avail. - - Truly your friend, - GEORGE B. MCCLELLAN. - -It should be remembered that he was undertaking this great task of -reorganizing the army, expending so much thought, labor, and time upon -it, in addition to the incessant labors of the Coast Survey and the -cares of the fortifications in Maine. It was his lofty and patriotic -ideals, his noble ambition to do his duty by his profession and his -country, that spurred him on, and his untiring energy and power of -concentration that enabled him to throw off work so rapidly and -effectively. His great ambition was to accomplish results, and he was -careless and indifferent as to claiming credit for himself, or pushing -himself in any way. - -Notwithstanding all these engrossing labors, he responded as promptly -and generously as ever to the personal calls of his friends and others. -He writes and interviews the War Department and Generals Scott and -Totten in behalf of another brevet for Captain G.W. Smith, aids -McClellan in regard to the engineer company, obtains information for -H.L. Smith, has the accounts of Sergeant Lathrop, of the engineer -company, passed, and is ever ready to lend a helping hand to any -deserving man or cause. - -Early in 1851 Major Stevens moved to Mrs. Janney's, an excellent and -well-known boarding-house on Eighth Street, next the Avenue. Here lived -several members of Congress and government officials, and also the -Turkish ambassador, a grave, quiet man in a dark red fez, with whom -Major Stevens occasionally played checkers in the evening. At this -establishment breakfast was served at eight, dinner at four, with a -lunch at noon, and at nine in the evening tea and thin sandwiches were -handed around in the parlor. - -In June Major Stevens carried his family to Newport for the summer, -where leaving them, he visited Bucksport to look after the works at Fort -Knox, which still remained under his charge. He hastened back to -Washington before the month was out. Passing through New York, he again -sat to Professor Fowler for his "phrenological character," but this time -was not accused of being a poet. Whether informed by the bumps or other -means, the phrenologist seems to have drawn his characteristics pretty -accurately, with some glaring exceptions. - -Desirous of keeping house, Major Stevens now leased a roomy brick house, -one in a block of two, on the west side of Third Street, and only a -block north of the Avenue. This house had a large garden fronting on the -street, and in the rear of it was a stable opening on an alley behind. -Having obtained a position on the Coast Survey for his cousin, George -Watson Stevens, a son of uncle William, a young man of nineteen, Major -Stevens invited the youth to become a member of his family. - - WASHINGTON, July 27, 1851. - -MY DEAR, GOOD WIFE,--I have read your last letter over three times, and -it has done me a world of good. I love to have you write so from your -heart. You know that in marriage, in my wife and children, are centred -all my hopes of earthly happiness. I am conscious it occupies too large -a space in my youthful longings. It seems to me, with a devoted, loving, -and lovely wife and lovely children, I might shut out the cares of life, -and give myself up to happiness and joy. But we have duties to perform, -trials to encounter, victories to achieve. Life is a warfare. We must -contend with evil. We must accomplish good. I feel that I have done -something, but that I have just begun; that I am entering upon the great -field of useful exertion. I feel that the past has simply given me the -experience and the knowledge to wisely conquer the present, and thus -achieve a future. I feel there is something heroic and noble in this -view of life. I feel that the greatest support, next to the -consciousness of well-doing, is the sympathy and support of you, my dear -companion and friend, and the confiding, tender helplessness of our dear -babes. - -I like George in the house very much, and, so far as I am concerned, I -should like to have him a member of our family. I think, moreover, it -would be to his advantage. Charging him simply the actual outlay to us, -it will diminish his expenditures. Moreover, I shall be absent on -inspections more or less, and you will thus have some one to call on. - -He is studious, attentive to his duties, is impressing every one -favorably with whom he is brought in contact, and is advancing steadily -and quite rapidly. I feel highly pleased with his progress. With economy -his pay will, the first year, pay his expenses. - -I fear, if I am off in August, it will embarrass me very seriously in -the fall. Our reports are still coming in, and now is the time to put -things in a successful train. I do not wish, by inaction or delay now, -to make trouble hereafter. My health is remarkably good. I have never -had a better appetite, or more ability to work, than I have now. I am -surprised at my vigor. I don't care how hot the weather is. The -perspiration will drop from my face and hands, and I will feel neither -languor nor fatigue. The other men in the office complain and have to -slacken in their exertions, whilst I seem to have, with every hot day, -fresh strength and force. - -Give my love to the bairns. I want very much to see them. - - Yours affectionately, - ISAAC. - - - WASHINGTON, July 28, 1851. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--I was very glad to learn that you were so well, - and that the visit to Tom's was so pleasant. The farm is the place - for children. On their account I wish I could pass four months every - summer in that way. Hazard should go to school seven or eight - months. I am delighted with his doings,--learning to swim, and do - all kinds of work. Maude, too, learning to walk,--yes, actually - walking, little darling. She must have forgotten me, but she will - soon recollect me on seeing me again. And Sue learning to ride on - horseback! Why, verily, Margaret, you have a hopeful family, one of - which you may well be proud. Whether I go on to Tom's farm this - summer is doubtful. I am glad they are doing so well. Daniel is a - first-rate business man, and, as he likes farming, why not make it - his business? I believe he could in a few years clear from debt a - large farm, going upon it without a cent in his pocket. This is my - opinion, and in a pecuniary point of view it is much better than a - salaried place,--far better. - - You may be assured my health is remarkably firm and good. I never - knew it better. This warm weather does not affect me in the least. I - bear labor better than any man in the office. Not a man in the - office can do as much as I can. - - Well, as to the book. It is said to sell pretty well. Most of the - copies have been disposed of. Very good notices have appeared both - in the "Intelligencer" and "Republic." The notice of the - "Intelligencer" I sent you. The notice in the "Republic" was short, - but very good. Some of my friends think it will excite a - controversy. Others think it will be found a very hard thing to - reply to. The fact is, whilst I have endeavored to clearly discern - errors, I have sought to look charitably on all that was done. This - seemed to me the only true wisdom. Some of my friends think I have - carried this spirit too far, and that I have not censured enough. - The general criticism is that I am too favorable towards Ripley. I - think I have simply done him justice. - - - WASHINGTON, August 8, 1851. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--My health is remarkably good, my duties - multifarious, and I must not spend time in recreation which my - health does not require. I have not had such health for years, and - have enjoyed this summer. - - We are getting on famously with our housekeeping. The woman is a - neat, respectable, honest person, who tries to do her duty, a very - respectable washer and ironer as well as cook. I think you will be - pleased with her. I shall send a boy whom we have had for a month - away in the morning. One of the messengers comes to the house every - evening to attend to the garden. So we are getting along. To-day we - put six chickens into our coop, and to-morrow eight hens will be - admitted. You will find us getting on swimmingly when you come on in - October. - - Friday morning. I have just received two very gratifying letters, - one from General Shields, which I send you. Don't show it to any - one, for he is very extravagant in praise of my book, and his - suggestions are made in a corresponding spirit. But I value what he - says very much, because he writes from his heart and in the spirit - of friendship. I feel, too, there are many points of sympathy - between him and me, and I value his friendship and words of - encouragement. - - The other letter is from Major Pitman. His article on my book in the - "Providence Journal" of August 6 is altogether the best that has - appeared. He has presented his own views with clearness and force on - certain points of difference. This is what I want. I don't want - eulogies, but discriminating notices. I want to see my errors - exposed, otherwise I shall not learn to correct them. - - Taylor & Maury have sold out all the copies of my book, and in - consequence I loaned them half a dozen that I still had on hand. - They think they will sell a great many more. - - I am pushed exceedingly, and can write no more to-day. Love to the - children. - - Affectionately. - -In the latter part of September Major Stevens made a hasty visit North, -spent a few days at Andover and Newport, and brought his family back to -Washington. His wife's youngest sister, Miss Nancy Hazard, accompanied -them and spent the winter with them. He still retained charge of the -works at Bucksport, although the second year of duty on the Coast Survey -was near its close, and writes full and explicit instructions to Mr. -A.W. Tinkham, C.E., concerning it. At a later date he obtained a good -position for Mr. Tinkham on the Coast Survey, and also secured a -situation in the same service for Mr. John E. Lee, whom he had employed -in Bucksport as clerk. - -The family this winter was increased by George W. Stevens and Miss Nancy -L. Hazard. There was the colored cook, and Bridget Sullivan, the -children's nurse, and Sampson Ingraham, a most faithful, capable, and -respectable colored man and a free man. Sampson had one cross to bear -which sorely tried his devotion to the family, and that was milking the -cow and taking care of it, which Major Stevens compelled him daily to -do; for Sampson, never having done any farm work, regarded this as -derogatory, and was much distressed and mortified thereby. But finally -Major Stevens, perceiving his trouble, relieved him from this duty. In -the next house, on the south side, lived the family of Captain Simon F. -Blount, of the navy. Nearly across the street Senator William Gwin, of -California, and family occupied a roomy mansion, where they dispensed a -generous hospitality. After breakfast, at eight, Major Stevens usually -walked down to the Coast Survey Office, and walked back in time for -dinner at four in the afternoon. In the evening there was tea at eight -o'clock. - -Louis Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot, visited Washington this winter, -and attracted the greatest attention and admiration. He was a man of -noble presence, a finished orator, speaking English with great purity -and ease. The Democratic Jackson Club gave a banquet on January 8 in -honor of Kossuth, which was attended by Webster and many of the first -men of the country. Major Stevens was called upon to respond to the -toast of "The Army and Navy," and spoke as follows:-- - - GENTLEMEN,--In the name of the army I return my thanks for the honor - of this toast. I speak in behalf of the American army,--that army - which presents its breast to the enemy, which pours out its blood, - which lays down its life. A weighty significance already attaches - to these words, "the American army." For, first, it achieved the - independence of these States against the most powerful nation of - modern times; second, it waged against the same power the second war - of independence to maintain the freedom of the seas, the war the - culminating glories of which we this evening celebrate; and, third, - when a contiguous republic interfered with the domestic concerns of - one of our States, the vindication of the law of nations, thus - trampled under foot, was placed in its hands, and the stars and - stripes soon waved over the ancient seats of the Montezumas. The - American army will never forget what is due to its past renown and - its future glory. We feel that, citizens alike with you, we are the - army of a free people. We know, too, that our country possesses - elements of military strength scarcely appreciated by the - inattentive observer of events,--elements that have been nurtured by - the wonderful growth, the trials and vicissitudes, of our young - nation struggling into manhood. No other people so combines command - and obedience, is so subordinate to law, yet is so much a law unto - itself. No other people of ancient or modern times possesses such - elements of military power. It is the profound conviction of my - heart that in a just cause we could meet the world with a million - armed men, each man a tried and true soldier, surpassing even the - iron men of Cromwell, those men who feared God but not man; those - men stern in fight yet merciful in victory; those men who achieved - the great triumph of English independence, and transmitted to us its - glorious recollections. - - The members of both services, which you have honored to-night, see - that the American people are marching forward to mighty destinies, - and that upon them heavy responsibilities will rest. We mean to do - our whole duty. We mean at all times to be in harness and at our - posts. We know not when the time may come,--probably in our - lifetime, and perhaps to-morrow. We feel no despondency, but are - filled with joy and hope. When our beloved nation, "a power on - earth," shall determine to measure its strength with other powers in - the maintenance of right, and in vindication of violated law and - outraged humanity, the army and navy will carry their country's flag - in triumph over all seas and through all lands. - -Congress was disposed then as now to starve the coast defenses, -appropriating scarcely enough to maintain the works already built. Major -Stevens, deeply interested in the proper fortification of the coast, -both from his professional knowledge and experience and his enlarged and -patriotic views, with his accustomed zeal and energy undertook the task -of inculcating upon the country and Congress sound ideas in regard to -this important subject, and of obtaining the appropriations necessary to -keep up and complete existing works. In this, as in everything he -undertook, was evinced his prominent characteristic of going to the -bottom of a subject, of basing his action upon broad principles; and so, -instead of being satisfied with simply securing the needed -appropriations for the time being, he treats of the whole system of -fortifications required for national defense, both present and future. -He had repeated conferences with General Shields on this subject, who in -March, as chairman of the Military Committee, brought into the Senate a -favorable report and bill. In support of this, and advocating a proper -system of coast defenses, Major Stevens wrote a number of articles, -which were published in the "National Intelligencer" of Washington, the -"Boston Post," Portland "Eastern Argus," "Bangor Democrat," and papers -in New York, Richmond, New Orleans, and other places. He caused these -articles, with Shields's report, to be sent to many officers and -influential men in different parts of the country, urging them to -advocate the matter on patriotic grounds. These articles were much -commended, especially by his brother officers of the engineers. - -He also at this time published in the "Boston Post" an article on the -lighthouse system. - -In April, 1852, Major Stevens was appointed a member of the Lighthouse -Board, which was considered no slight honor, and which added much to his -responsibilities and his duties. His colleagues on the board were all -men of talent and reputation, the association with whom was congenial -and gratifying. In May he visited Wilmington on this duty. - -The Bucksport house had remained on his hands all this time, a source of -more care than income; but in April a purchaser was found in Mr. Knox -for $1350, evidently quite a sacrifice. - -He took his two elder children, Hazard and Sue, to Newport for the -summer; but his wife and Maude, the youngest child, remained in -Washington. - -General Franklin Pierce, having been nominated for the presidency by the -Democratic party, was outrageously assailed by the unscrupulous press -and partisans of the other side on account of his services in Mexico, -and even his personal courage was impugned. Major Stevens, having met -Pierce in Mexico, and having been favorably impressed by him, was -indignant at these slanders, and felt called upon to aid in refuting -them. Accordingly he published six letters in the "Boston Post" and two -in the "Republic," a Washington paper, warmly, but in a temperate and -courteous style, vindicating the unjustly assailed public man. He takes -pains in these articles to eulogize the military talents of General -Scott, the rival candidate nominated by the Whig party, quotes his -favorable mention of Pierce in his reports of operations in Mexico, and -shows that the rival candidates entertained warm feelings of esteem for -each other, thus ingeniously making Scott a witness to refute his own -reckless partisans. He concludes the last article as follows:-- - - "You well know, Mr. Editor, my exalted appreciation of the conduct - and services of General Scott in Mexico. It has been a pleasing - reflection that the standard-bearers of the two great parties were - warm personal friends, each possessing in an eminent degree the - respect and confidence of the other. The friends of General Pierce - have never claimed that he was a great military man. They concede - with pride and gratification that General Scott is, and that he is a - judge of military qualities. They simply claim that General Pierce - in his service in Mexico did his whole duty as a son of the - Republic, that he was eminently patriotic, disinterested, and - gallant, and that it has added a laurel to his beautiful civic - wreath: as a citizen he has been ready to make sacrifices for his - country; as a soldier and commander, he has shown gallantry before - the enemy, and was eminently the friend and father of his command." - -Colonel Charles G. Greene, editor of the "Post," writes that General -Pierce was much pleased with, and highly commended, these letters. - -Major Stevens always took great interest in public affairs. He was -emphatically a national man. He held the Union as the noblest work of -our Revolutionary patriots, and as indispensable to liberty and national -greatness. An ardent Democrat from boyhood, he regarded the Democratic -party as preëminently the national party, the party of progress. He -fully justified the Mexican war, the great Democratic measure, and -believed with full faith in the future growth and destiny of the Great -Republic. The slavery question, destined in a few brief years to wreck -that party and so nearly destroy the nation, was still in abeyance, and -it was almost universally believed that the compromise of 1850 had -averted all danger from that quarter. - -Not content with vindicating Pierce in the papers, Major Stevens now -concluded to support him on the stump. He wrote Gayton P. Osgood, and -other friends in Massachusetts, as to the advisability of this step, but -received rather discouraging replies, one correspondent even taking him -to task for speaking so highly of General Scott in his articles, and -recommending him to become a thoroughgoing partisan if he took the -stump. But as usual he held to his own opinion, and in August addressed -a large public meeting in Hillsborough, N.H., in support of the -Democratic principles and candidate, and later, in October, spoke in -Andover, Newport, and Portsmouth. His brother officer and friend, -Colonel James L. Mason, also addressed the meeting in Newport, and Hon. -Charles Levi Woodbury spoke with him in Portsmouth. In his speeches -Major Stevens took pains to do full justice to General Scott as a -military man, without disparaging him as a statesman or otherwise. His -arguments were drawn from the ideas and objects of the two parties,--a -contest of principles, not men. - -It appears that the course of the young army officer in stumping for -Pierce, and as in Mason's case even stirring up other officers to do -likewise, excited no little commotion in the War Department, for it was -a Whig administration. On his return, the Secretary of War, Charles M. -Conrad, undertook to take him to task for it, and wrote Major Stevens a -severe letter, demanding an explanation of his conduct. This was soon -bruited about Washington, and many of his friends and brother officers -came anxiously to advise with him about it. They felt that he was in an -embarrassing position, and one from which he could hardly hope to -extricate himself with credit, and they were not a little troubled as to -the outcome. - -At length Major Stevens prepared his answer to the Secretary, and, -before sending it, read it to a group of his anxious brother officers. -In a direct, forcible, but courteous style, he reminded the Secretary -that, in becoming an officer of the army, he had not forfeited his -rights as a citizen, nor become relieved from his duties as such; that, -while he had never failed in the respect due his superior officers, he -had the right of an American citizen to advocate such public measures as -he deemed best for the country, and to vote for the public servants best -fitted to carry them out; and he concluded in a somewhat sarcastic but -perfectly respectful way by calling the Secretary's attention to the -fact that General Scott himself was a candidate for the presidency, and -was setting the example of that participation in politics which the -Secretary so severely reprobated, and suggested that his animadversions -would have greater weight with the service, and be more worthy the -dignity of the War Department, if launched against the senior -major-general of the army instead of a simple lieutenant and brevet -major; that they were more applicable to the former than the latter, and -might well be deemed an attempt to scourge General Scott over his back. - -As Major Stevens read aloud this letter, the faces of his friends -cleared up; soon they began to applaud it, and as he finished they -crowded around him with cheers and laughter and exclamations,--"That's -good! that covers the ground!" "You are right, Stevens. You are -perfectly right." "He can't answer it," etc. Sure enough, the Secretary -did not answer it, and attempted no further action. - -In fact, Major Stevens had now become quite a leader among the able -young officers. They were constantly calling at his house, and -discussing with him the measures he was pushing forward for the -improvement of the army, fortifications, etc. He was always ready to -assist any of them, too, and it was known that his aid was frequently -effective. He obtained a detail on the Coast Survey for his friend, -Captain J.C. Foster, and secured for several others lighthouse -inspectorships. He also had a number of the engineer company detailed on -the Coast Survey, although his friends Cullum, G.W. Smith, and McClellan -strenuously opposed it. - -Writes a young man on the survey, whose pay Major Stevens had tried to -increase but without success:-- - - - "Having been informed to-day that you did not succeed in your - efforts to make my compensation $1500 per annum from October 1, - 1851, and consequently was obliged to pay out of your own pocket $50 - to make your word good, I believe it unbecoming a gentleman to - remain a moment longer in possession of said money. The inclosed - check will indemnify you for your loss sustained for my sake, and - joyfully I return my heartfelt thanks for the efforts you have made - in my behalf." - -Writes Cullum from West Point:-- - - "Your feeling and commendatory remarks on the death of private Logan - were read to the company [engineer], and will doubtless produce an - excellent impression." - -In truth, these personal demands grew to be a grievous burden upon his -time and energies, yet he never refused his aid to any claim of -friendship or desert. Among others a lady, who had long prosecuted a -claim before Congress in vain, was introduced by his corps chief, -General Totten, to Major Stevens, as the only man who could win her -cause. Although the latter felt that this was a task altogether outside -of his sphere of duty, and one which should not have been thrust upon -him, he cheerfully undertook it, and succeeded in having it allowed by -Congress. - -The friendship between Major Stevens and Professor Bache grew stronger -the longer they were associated together. They appreciated and admired -each other. Both were gifted with uncommon powers of mind, uprightness -and purity of character, and disinterestedness. Bache was more the -philosopher, the student; Stevens, the man of action. Major Stevens also -saw much of Professors Henry and Baird, of the Smithsonian. He took -pains to meet the able men in Congress, and other men of talent and -reputation who visited Washington. Occasionally of an evening he would -take his little boy by the hand, and make the rounds of Willard's and -other hotels, meeting and chatting with old army and other friends and -acquaintances. - -With but little intermission, Major Stevens was an indefatigable worker, -and never so well content as when driving his work at high pressure; and -his sound judgment guided his energy so well that he would throw off an -enormous load with astonishing rapidity. He had the faculty of getting a -great deal of work out of his subordinates. But, not realizing that -others lacked equal ability and power of labor, he was at times too -exacting and severe. He was also inclined to overrate both the good -qualities and the ability of others, and too often had cause to regret -having done so from the ingratitude of many whom he befriended. - -The two elder children, Hazard and Sue, returned to Washington in -October, and Miss Mary W. Hazard, Mrs. Stevens's sister, also came on -and spent the winter with them. - -The youngest daughter, Kate, was born in the Third Street house on -November 17, 1852. - -In September Major Stevens with Professor Bache was appointed on a -commission for the improvement of the James, Appomattox, and Cape Fear -rivers, and in November visited Richmond and Wilmington on this duty. - -But all these additional duties and pursuits made no impairment of his -vigorous hold upon, and improvement of, the Coast Survey. The character -and standing of the office was steadily rising, and able young officers -were glad to accept details in it under Major Stevens. Lieutenant John -G. Foster became his principal assistant. Professor H.E. Hilgard, who -afterwards rose to be chief of the Coast Survey, had charge of the -computing; Lieutenant Richard C. Rush, and afterwards Lieutenant A. A. -Gibson, of drawing; and Lieutenant E.B. Hunt, of engraving. The field -work, as fast as it came in, was given to the public in preliminary -sketches, or charts, which served as a great incentive both to parties -in the field, who saw at once the fruits of their labors, and to the -office force in affording a better opportunity to train the younger -members, and prepare them for the finished charts; and for the first -time the annual report was illustrated by these sketches, giving all the -field work done to date. He greatly facilitated the sale and -distribution of Coast Survey maps, declaring that "they should be -carried to every man's door having an interest in commerce, navigation, -geography, or science." He took every means to encourage and reward the -deserving, and opened the office to young men to learn the art of -engraving, for there was a scarcity of skillful engravers, most of whom -were foreigners. He reports:-- - - "The system of teaching the art of engraving to youths of promise is - succeeding admirably. By combining lessons in drawing, instructions - at night schools, with engraving, the best spirit is excited, and - the greatest excellence attained. There are now six lads in the - office, whose terms vary from two to nineteen months. - - "During the past year there has been a visible improvement of the - office in all its branches, and it is my pleasure and duty to bear - unqualified testimony to the zeal and efficiency of the several - assistants in charge of the departments, and of the numerous - employees under them. Each man has shown an honest purpose to do his - duty, and I have been much oftener obliged to moderate exertion than - to rebuke indifference and neglect." - -And Professor Bache in his reports declared:-- - - "The office under the charge of Major Stevens has improved in the - system and order of every one of its divisions; and the zeal and - ability of the assistant in charge has been reflected in the spirit - of the officers under him, and in the general diligence of the - employees. The office is characterized by a very marked spirit of - industry, of working to results, and of progress. Every - encouragement, as it should be, is afforded to those who endeavor to - advance in their several occupations. - - "The office work has, by great diligence on the part of the persons - employed, and by the excellent administrative arrangements of Major - Stevens, been kept close to the field work. In no former year have - so many preliminary sketches been promptly issued, and so much - information of various kinds been published, or furnished to the - officers of government or to individuals." - - - - - CHAPTER XV - - GOVERNOR, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.--EXPLORATION, NORTHERN ROUTE - - -The triumph of the Democratic party in November, 1853, and the election -of General Franklin Pierce as the next President insured a more vigorous -policy of exploration and settlement of the vast domain stretching from -the Mississippi to the Pacific. Major Stevens was strongly attracted to -this field. It appealed to his ambition. It afforded a greater -opportunity for public service and achievement. Prominent and gratifying -as was the position and standing he held in Washington, he realized its -limitations. He knew, too, that with the army on a peace footing and -filled with young officers, no promotion in his corps could be expected -for years. In brief, feeling the powers and ambition of a leader, he was -not content to remain longer a subordinate. - -In March Congress formed the new Territory of Washington out of the -northern half of what was then Oregon, being the territory extending -from the Columbia River and the 46th parallel northward two hundred and -fifty miles to the British Possessions and the 49th parallel, and from -the crest of the Rocky Mountains westward six hundred miles to the -Pacific, an area larger than New England and New York combined. Save a -handful of settlers on the lower Columbia and the shores of Puget Sound, -and a few missionary and trading posts in the interior, the whole vast -region was unsettled, and much of it unexplored by civilized man. It -contained many thousands of Indians, some of whom had lately been at -war with the whites, and regarded their approach with jealous and -hostile eyes; the Indian title to the land had not been extinguished; -and there were troublesome questions with the Hudson Bay Company, which -still held its posts in the Territory, and claimed extensive rights as -guaranteed by treaty. - -On March 3 Congress appropriated $150,000 for the exploration and survey -of railroad routes from the Mississippi to the Pacific, to be expended -by the Secretary of War under the direction of the President. Jefferson -Davis entered the new cabinet as Secretary of War, and it was early -determined to survey four principal routes to the Pacific. - -Early in the year Major Stevens applied for the governorship of the new -Territory, to which was attached, _ex officio_, the superintendency of -Indian affairs, and also for the charge of the exploration of the -Northern route. Either of these fields was enough to fully task the most -able and energetic man, but his ambition reached for both. Equally -characteristic was the high ground upon which he based his application. -He asked the appointment, not as the reward of political services, nor -for the sake of personal or political friendship, but because he was the -fittest man for the place, the one who could best serve the public -interests. He told General Pierce that if he could find any one else -better qualified for the position, who would accept it, it was his duty -to appoint him. There was no question on that score. But his wife and -many of his friends thought that he was making a great personal -sacrifice in relinquishing the enviable position he had attained in -Washington for the toils, hardships, and dangers of the Western -exploration and governorship. Professor Bache was of this opinion, and -deeply regretted to lose his efficient assistant and friend. - -One of the first acts of the new President was to send the name of Isaac -I. Stevens to the Senate as governor of Washington Territory; he was -confirmed, and his commission was issued March 17. He was just -thirty-four years old, in the prime of life and of mental and physical -powers. - -Major Stevens's letter of resignation from the army and General Totten's -reply show the cordial and appreciative feelings of both. - - WASHINGTON, D.C., March 21, 1853. - BRIGADIER-GENERAL JOSEPH G. TOTTEN, - _Chief Engineer._ - - _Sir_,--I herewith resign my commission of lieutenant of engineers - and brevet major United States army, to take effect on Wednesday, - the 16th instant. - - This resignation is tendered with a profound sense of the high - honor, intelligence, and sentiment of duty which is characteristic - of the officers with whom I have been associated the best years of - my life, whom I have known and honored in peace and war, in sunshine - and in storm, and whose equals I can scarcely expect to find in the - new career upon which I have entered. I shall carry into civil life - the conviction that the country owes the army a debt of gratitude, - and is yet to receive signal benefits at its hands. - - This conviction, rest assured, will show itself both in words and - deeds whenever the service has to be vindicated or maintained. - - To yourself, both personally and officially, as a friend and as a - superior officer, permit me to acknowledge the kindness and - confidence which I have received at your hands. It has had no - hindrance or interruption during the period of nearly fourteen - years, many of them years of weighty responsibilities and perplexing - cares, during which I have served under your command. - - And to me, sir, not only my commanding officer, but my honored - friend, it is the completest of satisfactions to be able to say that - during my service in the army I have not had a serious difficulty - with a brother officer, and that I am not aware that between me and - any officer in or out of the service there is the slightest feeling - of unkindness. - - Very truly and respectfully, - Your friend and obedient servant, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - -Writes General Totten in reply:-- - - While regretting that the corps of engineers are thus deprived of - the future services of an officer whose high traits of character - have, both in peace and war, so fully vindicated its position, I - anticipate the more unhesitatingly that these characteristic - qualities will continue to procure for you, in the new and wider - scenes on which you have now entered, all the rewards which they so - justly merit.... - - For myself, I have to make acknowledgment for great assistance - rendered in every form, and under all the circumstances that your - military duties admitted,--at all times fulfilling my wishes, - abridging my cares, and exalting the usefulness and reputation of - the corps. And in all our personal relations you have observed a - kind consideration which I have fully appreciated. These things have - created a warm interest in your welfare, and make me feel that, - while the service is losing a most valuable officer, I am parting - from a friend. - - I remain with high respect, - J.G. TOTTEN, - _Bvt. Brig.-Gen. and Col. Engineers._ - -Major Stevens turned over the charge of Fort Knox to Colonel John L. -Smith, and was succeeded on the Coast Survey by Captain H.W. Benham. -Major Stevens had long since overcome the ill feelings excited by the -vigorous and drastic way in which he had reformed the office, and had -long since won the confidence of the force, and their admiration as -well. They deeply regretted his departure, and in token of their esteem -presented him with a beautiful service of plate, consisting of a large -silver pitcher and salver, with two goblets, in _repoussé_ work. - - PRESENTED TO - ISAAC I. STEVENS, - GOVERNOR - OF THE TERRITORY OF WASHINGTON, - LATE BREVET MAJOR, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, U.S. A., - AND ASSISTANT IN CHARGE OF THE OFFICE OF THE - U.S. COAST SURVEY, - AS A TOKEN OF ESTEEM, BY HIS - FRIENDS ON THE SURVEY, - WASHINGTON, D.C., - MARCH, 1853. - -In his next annual report after Major Stevens had left the Coast Survey, -Professor Bache remarks:-- - - "The gain to the country in his appointment, and especially to that - new region to which he has been called, will no doubt be great, but - our loss is proportionably great. An administrative ability of a - high order was joined to unceasing activity and great force of - character; varied general and professional knowledge to great - clearness in discerning ends, and fixedness of purpose in pursuing - them; remarkable knowledge of men, and easy control of those - connected in business with him, to personal qualities which rendered - official intercourse agreeable to those about him. The system with - which he followed up plans, complicated as well as simple, insured - success in his administration, and was felt in every department of - the office, of which he had thoroughly mastered the details as well - as the general working. The experience acquired by such an officer - is invaluable to the work, and not soon to be replaced, whatever may - be the resources of his successor." - -A remark of Benham's, soon after he assumed charge, well illustrates his -egotistic and assuming character: "Major Stevens grew up with the office -from its infancy, but I grappled the lion when full-grown." Benham did -not long remain on the survey. - -Scarcely was the ink dry on his commission, when Governor Stevens set to -work to obtain charge of the exploration of the Northern route, and the -rapid and masterly way in which he effected it, and planned the survey -and increased its magnitude and importance, must have astonished the red -tape officials of Washington. As usual, all his recommendations were -based upon the highest grounds of public welfare and public service. On -March 21 he writes the Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, a strong -letter, proposing to conduct an exploration to determine the emigrant -route, and the route for a railroad from the sources of the Mississippi -to Puget Sound, and submits a memoir for accomplishing it by means of -three parties, with estimates of organization and cost in detail, and -concludes, "Should an expedition be intrusted to my charge, I pledge the -devotion of all my force, energy, and judgment to its accomplishment." - -The following day he addresses the Secretary of State, William L. Marcy, -submitting his project, and showing that he could best promote the -interests of the new Territory by exploring the route to it, obtaining a -large amount of useful information in relation to the agricultural, -mineral, commercial, and manufacturing resources, and publishing the -information thus obtained, thereby inviting emigrants, filling up the -Territory, and developing its resources. He shows that this duty need -not greatly delay the organization of territorial government, and calls -attention to-- - - "the great influence which this exploration will exercise over the - Indian tribes, the exceeding efficiency which it will give to me in - discharge of my duties as Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and the - interesting information which it will enable me to collect in regard - to their numbers, customs, locations, history, and traditions. This - I design making the subject of a special communication to the - Department of the Interior. Should my views meet the approbation of - the department, I will earnestly request that the necessary - communication be had with the War Department to arrange the - exploration in conformity with the plan which I have thus rapidly - sketched. I ask that it be done with the least possible delay, so as - to insure its complete success. I think it important that my - arrangements here should be brought to a close in sixteen days, that - previous to that time competent men be dispatched to the Mississippi - River to assure the expedition, and thus we shall all be hard at - work in the field the first week of May." - -As governor he was under the jurisdiction of the State Department. On -the same day he addresses a similar letter to the Secretary of the -Interior, Robert McClelland, for, as Superintendent of Indian Affairs, -he came under that department. Governor Stevens enforced his views by -personal interviews with the secretaries and the President; and his -earnestness, zeal for the public service, sound judgment, and strong, -convincing way of expressing his views, carried all before him. Within -four days his proposal to lead the expedition was accepted, and all his -suggestions adopted. The administration were only too glad to find such -a man to head the most important of the explorations and insure its -success. Perhaps no part of his career more clearly stamped Governor -Stevens as a born leader of men than this. At a time when the new -President and cabinet were overwhelmed with the pressing questions and -personal claims ever engrossing the incoming administration, a mere -subordinate, not content to simply await the instructions of his -superiors, surveys the whole field of Western exploration intrusted to -him, and its attendant problems of white settlement, Indians, etc., with -comprehensive and far-sighted vision, decides upon the measures and -action required by the needs of the country and the public service, and -then so impresses his views upon the President and three great -departments by sheer force of character, earnest patriotism, and sound, -good sense, that all his recommendations are adopted without delay, and -he is given _carte blanche_ to carry them out. The bare conception, if -broached in March, when the new administration assumed charge, of -obtaining both the governorship of Washington Territory and the charge -of the Northern Pacific exploration, of inducing three secretaries to -adopt his measures, of completely organizing and outfitting and starting -in the field a great expedition for the survey of two thousand miles of -wilderness, and all to be accomplished within two months, would have -seemed not merely bold, but visionary and presumptuous, and nothing -could have relieved Governor Stevens from such reproach but the fact -that all this he actually accomplished. - -The following letter to Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War, shows how -energetically Governor Stevens was already gathering information and -assistance for the exploration. The last part touches upon a delicate -question, the placing army officers under the command of a civilian, as -Governor Stevens now was, a thing repugnant to all military ideas and -usages, and almost without precedent. But Governor Stevens held that his -case was altogether exceptional, and found no difficulty in securing the -voluntary services of as many able officers as he needed. It is believed -that there is no similar instance in our history where twelve army -officers came under the command of a civilian:-- - - WASHINGTON, March 25, 1853. - - HON. JEFFERSON DAVIS, _Secretary of War_. - - _Sir_,--I am now quite certain that a sufficient number of army - officers will volunteer to go with me on the proposed exploration - from the headwaters of the Mississippi to Puget Sound, as will much - reduce the force of civilians to be employed. Several accomplished - officers would be glad to be detailed, and would do effective - service as astronomers, engineers, artists, naturalists, - draughtsmen, etc. I can make arrangements both with the American Fur - and Hudson Bay Company for active coöperation and assistance. The - distinguished geologist, Dr. J. Evans, who has gone over the - greater portion of the country between the Mississippi and the - Pacific, has explored two of the passes in the Rocky Mountains north - of the South Pass, and has received much information of the - topography of the country, has kindly given me much valuable - information, and is ready to coöperate with all his energy in a plan - whereby each shall render to the other every possible facility, and - best promote the public service without an unnecessary expenditure - of means. - - I think it exceedingly important that the whole exploration from the - Mississippi River to Puget Sound, including a thorough examination - of the passes of the Cascade Range, should be placed under the - charge of the same person, he, under general instructions from the - department, giving the necessary direction to the several parties, - thus securing united and energetic action, and guarding against the - almost certain failure of the expedition should it be divided into - two independent commands. As soon as the department shall decide - upon the scale of the operations, and shall issue its orders - assigning me to the duty, which I presume from the correspondence - with the Department of State to be definitely decided upon, I will - at once submit a more detailed plan of operations, and make the - necessary requisition for the detail of officers, and for the - various facilities which may be extended by the administrative - branches of the service. As in the Coast Survey, I propose no - assignment of officers except by their own desire, and of officers - who have especial adaptation to the particular duty. - - Very respectfully your obedient servant, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - -Among his first acts Governor Stevens, on March 31, applied for Brevet -Captain George B. McClellan, then in Texas, to be "at once assigned to -duty with me as my principal officer. I design to put him in charge of -the exploration of the Cascade Range, and I can not only speak with -confidence of his great ability for the particular duty, but as his -friend can say that the duty will be in the highest degree agreeable to -him." - - WASHINGTON, April 5, 1853. - - MY DEAR MCCLELLAN,--I have succeeded in securing your detail to take - charge of the Western party in the Northern Pacific Railroad survey. - - You will get the orders to-day, and be directed probably to repair - to New Orleans, and there await instructions. The route is from St. - Paul, Minn., to Puget Sound by the great bend of the Missouri River - through a pass in the Rocky Mountains near the 49th parallel. A - strong party will operate westward from St. Paul; a second but - smaller party will go up the Missouri to the Yellowstone, and there - make arrangements, reconnoitre the country, etc., and on the - junction of the main party they will push through the Blackfoot - country, and, reaching the Rocky Mountains, will keep at work there - during the summer months. The third party, under your command, will - be organized in the Puget Sound region, you and your scientific - corps going over the Isthmus, and will operate in the Cascade Range, - and meet the party coming from the Rocky Mountains. - - As soon as my force is at work in these mountains, I shall push - forward with a small reconnoitring force and find you, and, after - conference with you, arrange the entire plan of operations. - - Your scientific corps will consist of a physician and naturalist, an - astronomer, a draughtsman and barometer man, and an officer of the - artillery, Johnson K. Duncan, who, I am informed by Foster, is a - strong friend of yours, and will work under you. You will have - authority to call upon the officers and troops stationed in the - Territories of Oregon and Washington, and I have no doubt you will - be able to secure valuable assistance. At the same time funds will - be placed in your hands to hire suitable guides, hunters, etc. A - complete set of instruments and appliances will be sent with the - necessary instructions. - - Your friend, Professor Baird, is arranging the natural history part - of the business. The expedition will be altogether the most complete - that has ever set out in this country, and if we are true to it, the - results will be satisfactory to the country. The amount of work in - the Cascade Range and eastward, say to the probable junction of the - parties at the great bend of the north fork of the Columbia River, - will be immense. Recollect, the main object is a railroad survey - from the headwaters of the Mississippi River to Puget Sound. - - We must rely upon the ordinary astronomical observations in the - field, upon the odometer and barometer and the compass, for getting - the direction, length, and profiles of routes. With the sextant for - determining height along the route, and with a good sketcher and - draughtsman, you will be able to get good results. I may get for you - a small detachment of sappers, and I shall try to get you assigned - to duty according to your brevet rank. - - I telegraphed you some days since, asking your views, but in - consequence of your great distance from Washington it was essential - to act at once. Knowing your views so intimately in relation to such - service, and venturing on our long acquaintance and mutual - friendship, I have in the strongest terms pressed your case, on the - ground that, could you be consulted, the duty would be sought by - you. In my telegraphic message I informed you that I was put in - charge of the duty in consequence of my civil position. It has been - done at the joint desire of the War Department, of the Department of - State, and of the Department of the Interior. Officers have - volunteered for the service, and I shall receive the services of - several very valuable and experienced men. I have in the strongest - terms taken the ground that my having left the army and standing in - a civil position would not, under the circumstances of the case, be - any objection on your part to acting under my direction. - - As your friend, and knowing the opportunity for distinction it would - give you, I would not hesitate for a moment. - - One word more as to the railroad survey. We must not be frightened - with long tunnels or enormous snows, but set ourselves to work to - overcome them. When you reach New Orleans you will find your - instructions. - - Truly your friend, - ISAAC I. STEVENS. - -The warning in the last paragraph seems almost prophetic; for, as will -be seen hereafter, McClellan's fear of deep snows caused him to fail in -an important part of his survey of the Cascade passes, viz., the -determining the depth of winter snow. - -Governor Stevens also obtained the detail for his survey of Lieutenant -A.J. Donelson, of the engineer corps, and ten non-commissioned officers -and men, of the engineer company, also known as sappers and miners, and -of Lieutenant Beekman Du Barry, of the 3d artillery. He also obtained -from the War Department authority to call upon the several army -administrative departments for transportation, subsistence, and arms, -and even the pay of two civilian surgeons and naturalists, thus -providing for all the expenses of the expedition except those pertaining -to civilians employed as a scientific corps and their assistants, which -were to be defrayed by the funds allotted to the Northern route out of -the civil appropriation, viz., $40,000 out of the $150,000 thus -appropriated. By these arrangements he vastly increased the extent, -thoroughness, and value of his exploration. - -On April 7 Governor Stevens sent Lieutenant Donelson to Montreal armed -with letters from the British Minister in Washington to Sir George -Simpson, governor of the Hudson Bay Company, to obtain all the -information possible relative to the country from the Great Lakes to the -Pacific, the location of the trading-posts, the amount of supplies -obtainable from them for the exploration party in case of emergency, the -names of hunters and half-breeds who might serve as guides and -interpreters, and to learn all possible about the geography, and examine -all books and maps, making copies of the latter if necessary, etc. - - "The information we already have of this region," he writes - Donelson, "is based upon the following works: Lewis and Clarke's - Travels; Irving's Astoria and Rocky Mountains; Travels by the - Missionary De Smet, Nicollet, and Pope; Governor Simpson's Journey - around the World; and some information, not yet published, obtained - from Dr. Evans on his geological survey of those regions. A book - recommended by the British Minister, 'Hudson Bay Company,' by - Montgomery Martin, I wish you to obtain. He suggested it might be - obtained from Governor Simpson. As soon as you have finished your - inquiries at Montreal, which I think you can do in a week, return to - Washington, and report to me in person. - - "In reference to the detachment (sappers), it is necessary that the - men be selected with great care. None should be taken who cannot - assist the scientific corps as sketchers, draughtsmen, or - collectors, etc. It is necessary that they should be put under - special training. Captain Seymour, perhaps, might be willing to take - charge of one, and Lieutenant Du Barry of another, giving them - instructions in the use of the barometer and astronomical - instruments used in the field." - -This is interesting as showing how little was then known of the region -to be explored, and how few and meagre were the works describing it. - -Governor Stevens had thus been driving the work of preparation and -organization for a fortnight, when, on April 8, the formal order placing -him in charge and giving full instructions was issued by the War -Department. These instructions exactly embody his own suggestions, much -of them in the very language of his letters and memoir to Secretary -Davis. In fact, he really prepared his own instructions. The following -brief synopsis will give some idea of the scope and magnitude of the -exploration, of the task Governor Stevens had set himself:-- - -1. The exploration and survey of a route for a railroad from the sources -of the Mississippi River to Puget Sound is placed in charge of Isaac I. -Stevens, governor of the Territory of Washington, to whom all officers -detailed for the same will report for instructions. - -2. To operate from St. Paul, or some eligible point on the Upper -Mississippi, towards the great bend of the Missouri River, and thence -on the table-land between the tributaries of the Missouri and the -Saskatchewan to some eligible pass in the Rocky Mountains. A depot to be -established at Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone, with a -subsidiary party to await the coming of the main party. A second party -to proceed to Puget Sound and explore the passes of the Cascade Range, -meeting the eastern party between that range and the Rocky Mountains, as -may be arranged by Governor Stevens. - -3. To explore the passes of the Cascade Range and Rocky Mountains from -the 49th parallel to the headwaters of the Missouri River, and to -determine the capacity of the adjacent country to supply, and of the -Columbia and Missouri rivers and their tributaries to transport, -materials for the construction of the road, great attention to be given -geography and meteorology of the whole intermediate region, to the -seasons and character of freshets; the quantities and continuance of its -rains and snows, especially in the mountain ranges; to its geology; in -arid regions the use of artesian wells; its botany, natural history, -agricultural and mineral resources; the location, numbers, history, -traditions, and customs of its Indian tribes; and such other facts as -shall tend to develop the character of that portion of our national -domain, and supply all the facts that enter into the solution of the -particular problem of a railroad. - -4-7. Assigns to survey, in addition to those already assigned, Captain -John W.T. Gardiner, 1st dragoons; Second Lieutenant Johnson K. Duncan, -3d artillery; Second Lieutenant Rufus Saxton, 4th artillery; Second -Lieutenant Cuvier Grover, 4th artillery; and Brevet Second Lieutenant -John Mullan, 1st artillery; and twenty picked men of the 1st dragoons -and two officers and thirty men to Captain McClellan's party. - -8. The administrative branches of the army, on requisition approved by -Governor Stevens, to supply the officers, soldiers, and civil employees -of the expedition (except the scientific corps and their assistants), -with transportation, subsistence, medical stores, and arms, and to -furnish funds for the same when not supplied in kind. - -9-10. After completion of field work, the expedition to rendezvous at -some suitable point in Washington Territory to be designated by Governor -Stevens, and reports to be prepared. Officers and enlisted men to be -sent to their stations and employees to be discharged. - -11. $40,000 set apart from the appropriation for the survey thus -intrusted to Governor Stevens. - -It is difficult to realize the magnitude of the task here outlined. It -was to traverse and explore a domain two thousand miles in length by two -hundred and fifty in breadth, stretching from the Mississippi River to -the Pacific Ocean, across a thousand miles of arid plains and two great -mountain ranges, a region almost unexplored, and infested by powerful -tribes of predatory and warlike savages; to determine the navigability -of the two great rivers, the Missouri and the Columbia, which intersect -the region; to locate by reconnoissance and to survey a practicable -railroad route; to examine the mountain passes and determine the depth -of winter snows in them; to collect all possible information on the -geology, climate, flora and fauna, as well as the topography, of the -region traversed; and finally to treat with the Indians on the route, -cultivate their friendship, and collect information as to their -languages, numbers, customs, traditions, and history; and all this, -including the work of preparation and organization, to be accomplished -in a single season. - -It was Governor Stevens's plan to effect this vast work by means of two -parties operating simultaneously from both ends of the route, the -principal one starting from St. Paul at the eastern end, under his own -immediate charge; and the other, starting from the western end, under -McClellan, to meet on the upper Columbia plains between the two great -mountain ranges; and two subsidiary parties,--one, under Lieutenant -Donelson, to ascend the Missouri to Fort Union with a stock of supplies, -and there await the coming of the main party; and the other, under -Lieutenant Saxton, to proceed from the lower Columbia to the Bitter Root -valley, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, with an additional stock of -supplies for the main party. The subsidiary parties were also to examine -the country traversed by them, and collect all the information possible -bearing on the various objects of the expedition. By this plan McClellan -was required simply to explore the Cascade Range, or about 200 miles of -the route; while Governor Stevens allotted all the remainder, some 1800 -miles, including the great plains, the Rocky and Bitter Root Mountains, -to the parties under his immediate charge. - -During the next four weeks Governor Stevens drove forward the work of -preparing and organizing the expedition with tremendous energy. He -applied for and obtained the assignments of officers and men from the -army; made requisitions upon the administrative branches for supplies -and funds for the several parties; obtained $6000 from the Interior -Department for the purchase of Indian goods and for treating with them; -employed A. W. Tinkham, his former assistant at Fort Knox, and Fred. W. -Lander, afterwards the Brigadier-General Lander who was wounded at -Ball's Bluff and died of his wounds, as civil engineers; appointed -George W. Stevens as secretary and astronomer; placed Professor Baird, -of the Smithsonian, in charge of the zoölogical and botanical -collections, and of preparing the outfits and instructions for field -work; made Isaac Osgood, his former clerk at Bucksport, disbursing -officer; Dr. John Evans, geologist; Drs. George Suckley and J.G. -Cooper, surgeons and naturalists; J.M. Stanley, artist, and engaged a -number of other subordinates, including six young gentlemen who went as -aides. - -Early in April Lieutenant Saxton and Lieutenant Duncan started for the -Columbia via the Isthmus and San Francisco, with detailed instructions, -that no time might be lost in organizing the western parties, and were -followed by McClellan as soon as he reached Washington from Texas and -received his instructions. He was also furnished by Governor Stevens -with letters from Sir George Simpson to the officers of the Hudson Bay -Company's posts, and with letters from the governor to many of the -prominent American settlers in Washington and Oregon, and also a -circular letter bespeaking their goodwill and support for Captain -McClellan. - -Governor Stevens also placed under McClellan's charge the construction -of a military wagon-road from Fort Steilacoom, on Puget Sound, to Fort -Walla Walla on the Columbia, for which Congress had appropriated -$20,000, and which the Secretary of War had placed in Governor Stevens's -hands, with authority to assign an officer or a civil engineer to its -construction, as he deemed best. The governor gave very full -instructions in regard to this road; furnished the names of prominent -citizens and advised McClellan to consult with them as to the best -location for the road, and gave him full notes of his correspondence -with them bearing on the matter. - -Sir George Simpson having proposed to forward an extra stock of supplies -to his posts in the interior for the expedition, Governor Stevens made -haste to decline the proffered assistance, not wishing to incur such an -obligation to a foreign company, assuring Sir George that his own -government would provide ample supplies, and that he merely wished to -know what the company's posts could spare from their usual stock in -case of emergency. On this point he is emphatic in his instructions to -Saxton and McClellan:-- - - "I am exceedingly desirous no exertion should be spared to have - means of our own for our expedition, and shall much prefer to be in - condition to extend aid than to be obliged to receive aid from - others. Whilst we will gratefully receive aid from the company in - case of necessity, let it be our determination to have within - ourselves the means of the most complete efficacy. I am more and - more convinced that in our operations we should be self-dependent, - and whilst we exchange courtesies and hospitalities with the Hudson - Bay Company, the people and the Indians of the Territory should see - that we have all the elements of success in our hands. The Indians - must look to us for protection and counsel. They must see that we - are their true friends, and be taught not to look, as they have been - accustomed to, to the Hudson Bay Company. I am so impressed with - this fact that I wish no Indian presents to be procured from British - posts. I am determined, in my intercourse with the Indians, to break - up the ascendency of the Hudson Bay Company, and permit no authority - or sanction to come between the Indians and the officers of this - government." - -The Hudson Bay Company still held trading-posts in the new Territory at -Steilacoom, Vancouver, Walla Walla, and Colville, and claimed extensive -but ill-defined rights and possessions, and its officers lost no -opportunity to cultivate the goodwill of Governor Stevens, hoping to win -his favoring view, if not support, of their claims. - -Lieutenants Donelson and Mullan, with part of the sappers, were sent to -St. Louis to prepare the supplies, etc., for ascending the Missouri to -Fort Union. Governor Stevens had already ascertained by correspondence -the character of the river boats at St. Louis and at Pittsburg, and the -cost of purchasing or chartering them, but was unable to find one of -sufficiently light draught and power, and therefore decided to send the -party by the American Fur Company's boat. - -Captain Gardiner was dispatched to St. Paul to select the dragoon -detachment, establish a camp, and make preliminary arrangements for -starting the main party afield as early as possible. The civil -engineers, Lander and Tinkham, were also sent to the same point to -examine the crossings of the Mississippi and their approaches. - -Lieutenant Grover, as assistant quartermaster and commissary of the -expedition, was also sent to St. Louis, assisted by a civilian employee, -to procure supplies and forward them to St. Paul. Lieutenant Du Barry -was directed to push on beyond St. Paul to Pembina to procure guides. - -The most detailed and careful instructions were furnished all these -officers; requisitions and arrangements made with the officers of the -army administrative branches in Washington, St. Louis, St. Paul, San -Francisco, and Vancouver for the outfit and supply of the different -parties; all existing information in the way of maps, reports, etc., was -copied and furnished, and full instructions for the making and -preservation of natural history collections, and for the astronomical -and meteorological observations were prepared and printed, and placed in -the hands of all those having charge of those branches. - -The very full, carefully considered, and complete instructions given -these various officers by Governor Stevens would fill two hundred pages. -They are not only a remarkable monument of industry, but show a complete -grasp and mastery of the whole field, great foresight of the conditions -and difficulties to be encountered, and are remarkably clear and precise -in stating the objects to be obtained, but leave much to the judgment of -the officer addressed in the ways and means of attaining them. - -Not content with omnivorously devouring all the books, reports, and -maps upon the field of operations, and seeking information by -correspondence with the officers of the Hudson Bay Company and citizens -of Oregon and Washington, Governor Stevens procured and studied all the -available works on the steppes of Russia and Asia, as throwing light -upon the formation and characteristics of the great plains. - -During these four weeks the Third Street house was filled with clerks -and draughtsmen, hard at work on instructions, requisitions, maps, etc., -with officers and civil employees conferring as to their duties and -making preparations, and with many others anxious to accompany the -expedition and seeking positions upon it; and was crammed from garret to -cellar with books, maps, papers, instruments, arms, and other -paraphernalia incident to such an undertaking. Professor Baird took the -greatest interest in the scientific collections, preparing rules, and -getting up panniers and apparatus, and made that feature so important -that Governor Stevens was impelled to say, "I want you to understand, -Professor Baird, that my exploration is something more than a -natural-history expedition." The fitting out of the expedition attracted -much attention in Washington, and the parlors were filled every evening -with gentlemen connected with or interested in it. Among them was Fred. -W. Lander, a tall, athletic young man, confident in bearing, frank and -ready in conversation, and fond of relating the adventurous experiences -and escapes, especially with horses, into which his daring not to say -reckless disposition often led him. Lieutenant George B. McClellan, -afterwards the well-known commander of the Army of the Potomac, was of -charming manners and personality. On being asked how he liked being -under Governor Stevens, he replied, "At any rate, I shall serve under a -man of brains." Lieutenants Saxton and Grover rose to be major-generals -in the Civil War. General Joseph Lane, who represented Oregon in -Congress, was a frequent caller. He was a man of native grace and -dignity of manner and fine character,--one of nature's noblemen. - -The energy and capacity for effective work displayed by Governor Stevens -during this time astonished his friends. His labors with the pen alone -were enough to fully occupy any man. Besides this, he was incessantly -engaged in consultations, conferences, and interviews with the -subordinates and others, and was embracing every opportunity of talking -with men who had experience on the plains or the Pacific coast. George -Stevens declared that no human being could stand such a strain, and on -another occasion exclaimed, "The major is crazy, actually crazy, or he -never could work as he does!" - -In just a month from the date of the order placing him in charge, -Governor Stevens had effected the whole work of organization and -outfitting, and on May 9 left Washington for St. Paul to start the -expedition. During the same month he also broke up housekeeping, -disposed of his furniture, and moved his family into private lodgings. -His wife was seriously ill, and was obliged to remain in Washington with -her young child and her sister Mary until sufficiently recovered to -stand the journey to Newport. - -He also at this time selected and purchased of D. Appleton & Co., of New -York, the Territorial Library,--for which $5000 had been appropriated by -Congress,--and had the books sent out by sea around Cape Horn. This was -no small task, for he went over the lists of books and made the -selection with great pains. He stated in his first message to the -legislature that he had taken care to get the best books in each -department of learning, and had applied to the executive of every State -and Territory and to many learned societies to donate their -publications. - -This work is not the place to narrate the progress and results of that -great exploration and survey. They are ably and fully recorded by -Governor Stevens himself in three large volumes, comprising 1500 pages, -with many views and illustrations, published by Congress, being the -first and twelfth volumes (the latter in two parts) of "Reports of the -Explorations and Surveys for a Railroad Route from the Mississippi River -to the Pacific Ocean." And it is only from these pages that one can -learn and appreciate with what thoroughness and completeness Governor -Stevens executed the vast work intrusted to him. For years these volumes -were the great storehouse of information relating to the region treated -by them, the source of innumerable reports and articles, and are to-day -full of interest and valuable information. These reports really embody -the results of three years' labors. And it will be related farther on -how Governor Stevens, not content with having most successfully -conducted his exploration across the continent in one season and fully -performed his instructions, did, of his own patriotic devotion to the -public interests, carry on that great work for two years longer, using -the Indian service and the volunteer forces under his command, and gave -the full and final results of his labors in vol. xii., published in -1860. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI - - THE PARTY.--THE START - - -Leaving Washington May 9, and, after spending a day in New York to -complete arrangements, going by way of Detroit and Chicago, Governor -Stevens reached St. Louis on the 15th. Here he was disappointed in -finding the outfits not so far advanced as he expected, and was even -seriously alarmed at the mules furnished by the St. Louis quartermaster, -which were only three or four years old, and perfectly wild and -unbroken. This was the more inexcusable from the fact that he had -previously sent Mr. Charles Taplin to St. Louis with instructions that -only well-broken and serviceable animals were to be procured. -Consequently he remained there a week hastening the necessary outfits, -during which time he started Lieutenant Donelson's party up the Missouri -on the American Fur Company's steamboat with Lieutenant Mullan, Mr. -William H. Graham, and six sappers, and 10,000 rations. Dr. John Evans -and Mr. Alexander Culbertson also accompanied them. The latter, having -spent twenty years on the upper Missouri as a fur-trader and married a -Blackfoot squaw, had great influence over that warlike tribe. He was -appointed by Governor Stevens as special agent for these predatory and -intractable savages, and sent forward to prepare the way for the -expedition through their country by securing guides and hunters and -arranging for a council. - -Leaving St. Louis on the 23d and proceeding up the Mississippi, Governor -Stevens, in order to repair the neglect of the quartermaster, purchased -at the several landings and at Galena a number of teams of strong, -well-broken mules and horses, in some instances taking them off the -wagons where they were at work. Four days were spent on the Father of -Waters. - - "Leaving Galena on the 25th," says the governor, "on the steamer - Nominee, we proceeded up the river, and were enabled to make short - stops at Dubuque, Prairie du Chien, Lansing, La Crosse, and other - places. Intervals of leisure were employed in reporting fully to the - War and Interior Departments my proceedings thus far, and the - arrangements in contemplation for the execution of my several - trusts. The scenery on the Mississippi is bold and at times - beautiful, though but little variety is presented. Bluff banks on - both sides, topped with trees, line its banks, and occasionally - marked views occur, among which I might mention as most prominent - Lake Pepin, Maiden Rock, Barn Bluffs, etc. - - "St. Paul is beautifully situated upon a high bluff on the east bank - of the river, and is rapidly growing in size and importance." - -St. Paul is said in the report to have then had a population of 1200. - -While on the Nominee, Governor Stevens writes a letter of eight pages to -his wife's brother, Mr. Daniel L. Hazard, who had had much experience -with Mississippi boats,--but was then at Newport recovering from -malarial illness,--on the draught, power, and size of steamboats -suitable for the navigation of the upper Missouri, and suggests to him -the opportunity for steamboating on Puget Sound, concluding with the -following remarks, showing his own feelings towards the new country, and -how completely he was adopting it:-- - - "I have no doubt that it is one of the most delightful and - salubrious regions in the whole country, with all the health of - Newport, but with a grandeur and largeness of scenery far surpassing - it. It is just such a place as I have for many years proposed to - myself, one of these days, to carve out a home. I am satisfied my - family will all be pleased with their new home, and that we will be - willing to settle down there for life." - -Long before daylight the next morning after reaching St. Paul, Governor -Stevens was in the saddle, riding to the camp established by Captain -Gardiner two days before, and had the pleasure of rousing the gentlemen -of the expedition from their sleep. The camp was situated on the borders -of Lake Amelia, about nine miles from St. Paul and about three northwest -from Fort Snelling, and, in honor of the President, the governor named -it Camp Pierce. - - "About a quarter of a mile to the eastward lay another lake, - connected with Lake Amelia by a creek, which was very convenient for - watering our animals, and formed a fine meadow on which they grazed. - These lakes furnished us with fish in abundance, consisting of bass, - pickerel, and sunfish. - - "The mules presented a fine appearance, and were apparently strong - and healthy, though young, and even more unbroken and unserviceable - than I had feared. Not a single full team of broken animals could be - selected, and well-broken riding animals were essential, for most of - the gentlemen of the scientific corps were unaccustomed to riding. I - felt that time was precious and a great difficulty to be overcome, - so at once resolved that the whole force should set to work to break - them. Fortunately, my purchase of mules along the river enabled me - to break in the animals rapidly to the teams, by which they were - started several days earlier than otherwise could have been done." - -A letter of George W. Stevens gives the following amusing account of the -scenes which occurred when every man, by the governor's order, set to -work to break his own mule:-- - - "Of the 200 mules received, much to the chagrin and disappointment - of the major, not ten of them were broken. But though the unbroken - and unqualified age of our young mules presented a hindrance, the - major has the more vigorously cut out his plans. In a week's time, - of very hard labor on the part of the men, we were able to move. - Even the members of the scientific corps put their shoulders to the - wheel, and each gentleman broke his own riding animal. The operation - of breaking these most stubborn of creatures was highly exciting and - interesting. First they were tolled into a corral by leading in the - bell mare, which they follow with the most laughable devotion. Then - lassos were thrown over their necks, and after a long process of - choking and hauling they were sufficiently exhausted to allow - themselves to be led out and tied to a long picket rope stretched - across stakes some four feet high. They did not at all relish the - feeling of the rope about their necks, and such capers as they cut - up, turning summersets 'both before and behind,' throwing themselves - upon the ground, and jumping and doubling themselves with all the - agility of the cat. At length nearly all of the 200 were tied to the - picket rope, and, after a sufficiently elapsed interval to regain - their minds and strength, the same antics were gone through with - again. Some leaped over the ropes, some tangled themselves with - their lariats. Breaking them to the saddle proved highly - interesting. After breakfast each morning we all went out and - saddled our own animals, and spent an hour or two in a _pleasant - drive_. Behold some fifteen or twenty of us mounted; off we start, - and in a moment all sorts of scenes are being enacted. Here one is - thrown headforemost; here one is borne through the air with - lightning speed, fortunate if not brushed off beneath the scrubby - oaks. Some of the mules lie down, and some persist in running among - a number of picketed animals, and tangling themselves in the - lariats; the riders--however good--are sent 'bounding through the - air.' I had a truly tough job in breaking my animal. Every time I - mounted her I was sure to be thrown, and it was not until some - weeks' march that she became well trained, but afterwards there was - not a better-broken mule in the train. Many were badly beaten and - bruised in the breaking operation, and certainly a whole month's - delay in our arrival at Fort Union was the result of the selection - of these young, unbroken animals by the St. Louis quartermaster." - -The next few days the rains were almost incessant; but, says the -governor, June 1:-- - - "Although it rained heavily all day, every one in camp was engaged - in breaking mules, causing many an amusing scene. Several of the - party were thrown repeatedly, but the determination they evince must - overcome all obstacles; and I feel not only pleased to see their - spirit, but to congratulate myself and them that no accident has - occurred worthy of mention. Much hilarity was produced by the - efforts of different persons, and each fall occasioned a laugh. Thus - what I had seriously expected to prove a great difficulty was, in - the midst of heavy rains and gloomy weather, a source of mirthful - enjoyment." - -The main party here organized, including a few members who joined soon -after starting, consisted of Governor Isaac I. Stevens; Lieutenant -Cuvier Grover, 4th artillery; Lieutenant Beekman Du Barry, 3d artillery; -detachment of four sappers; detachment of twenty men, 1st dragoons; -Fred. W. Lander, A.W. Tinkham, civil engineers; Dr. George Suckley, -surgeon and naturalist; Isaac F. Osgood, disbursing agent; J.M. Stanley, -artist; John Lambert, topographer; George W. Stevens, secretary and -astronomer; James Doty, A. Remenyi, astronomical and magnetic -observations; Joseph F. Moffett, meteorologist; T.S. Everett, -quartermaster and commissary clerk; Elwood Evans, Thomas Adams, F.H. -Burr, Max Strobel, A. Jekelfaluzy, B.F. Kendall, ---- Evelyn, aides; -C.P. Higgins, wagon-master; William Simpson, pack-master; Pierre -Boutineau, Le Frambois, Belland, Henry Boulieau, Paul Boulieau, guides; -Menoc, hunter; and sixty teamsters, packers, and voyageurs, numbering -altogether one hundred and eleven members. Captain Gardiner was relieved -from duty in consequence of illness, and did not accompany the -expedition. - -The pay was certainly moderate: $125 for Mr. Stanley, the artist; $100 -to the civil engineers, Lander and Tinkham; and $25 to each aide, per -month. - -The subsidiary party, ascending the Missouri to Fort Union, where it was -to join the main party, consisted of Lieutenant A.J. Donelson, engineer -corps; Lieutenant John Mullan, 1st artillery; six sappers; William M. -Graham, astronomer; Dr. John Evans, geologist; Alexander Culbertson, -special Indian agent. - -The other subsidiary party, which met the main party in the Rocky -Mountains, consisted of Lieutenant Rufus Saxton, 4th artillery; -Lieutenant Robert Macfeely, 4th infantry; Lieutenant Richard Arnold, 3d -artillery; Mr. D.L. Arnold; Mr. D.S. Hoyt; detachment of eighteen -soldiers; twenty-nine packers, herders, etc.,--in all, fifty-two. - -The western party consisted of Lieutenant George B. McClellan; -Lieutenant Johnson K. Duncan, 3d artillery, astronomer, etc.; Lieutenant -Henry C. Hodges, 4th infantry, quartermaster and commissary; Lieutenant -Sylvester Mowry, 3d artillery, meteorologist; George Gibbs, geologist -and ethnologist; J.F. Minter, civil engineer; Dr. J.C. Cooper, surgeon -and naturalist; Mr. Lewis, interpreter; detachment of twenty-eight -soldiers; thirty civil employees,--in all, sixty-six in number. - -The entire force under Governor Stevens's command for the exploration -comprised eleven officers and seventy-six enlisted men of the army, -thirty-three members of the scientific corps, and one hundred and twenty -civilian employees, teamsters, packers, guides, herders, voyageurs, -etc.,--altogether, some two hundred and forty. - -Governor Stevens's general plan was, while surveying a continuous -compass and odometer line with the principal train, to keep detached -parties far out on the sides of the route, examining the topography of -the country, and gathering all possible information concerning it, and -thus to embrace the widest possible field in the exploration. The -following pages will give simply the governor's personal experiences on -the expedition, and largely in his own language, referring the reader to -his reports, especially the final report in vol. xii., for the details -of this most interesting exploration. - - "As rapidly as the breaking-in of the mules and heavy rains for half - the time allowed, the expedition moved seventy miles up the - Mississippi in detachments, crossed to the west bank, and on June 10 - were again assembled on the Sauk River, two miles above its mouth, - in Camp Davis, so named in honor of the Secretary of War. In this - first movement of the expedition on the 31st, Lander was sent ahead - to explore, and Tinkham to run the survey line. Doty on June 3, and - Simpson on 4th, took the route with small trains, with such animals - as were sufficiently broken in to be worked, and on the 6th Camp - Pierce was broken up, and the remainder of the force followed in - three parties, Grover with the scientific men and instruments by - steamboat, Du Barry with Stanley, Dr. Suckley and sixteen dragoons, - and Everett with the train, both these by land up the east bank of - the river. Thus, despite the mules and the weather, the least - possible time was lost in starting afield, and the young - subordinates were being taught to command and operate detachments, - which the governor regarded as of great importance, 'in order to - infuse hope into the whole party, and avail myself of the present - high spirit of the camp.'" - -Having seen the several parties started off, and the camp broken up, the -governor continues:-- - - I remained at St. Anthony until noon of June 7 to secure the - services of several voyageurs, and particularly of the guide Pierre - Boutineau and the hunter Menoc, in which I was successful, and - starting about noon, and taking a rapid conveyance, I pushed forward - the same day forty miles, overtaking at Rum River Lieutenant Du - Barry, and, some miles beyond, both Doty and Simpson, and reaching - Sauk Rapids, a distance of thirty miles farther, by eleven A.M., - found Mr. Tinkham actively engaged in the survey of that portion of - the river. The crossing at St. Anthony is by a rope ferry, its - motive power being the action of the current, having a short rope at - the bow and a longer or slack rope astern. On the west side of the - Mississippi, about three miles above Rum River, there was a large - encampment of Winnebago Indians, consisting of about one hundred - lodges. These are constructed of oak bark, fastened by strips of - buckskin over arched poles, resembling in shape the cover of a - wagon; they are about eight feet high, and from ten to thirty feet - long, according to the number of families to be accommodated. The - chief's lodge in the centre is much larger, and distinguished by the - flags upon it, two British and two American colors. The shores are - lined with canoes, and the village extends an eighth of a mile along - the river. The country, for the first seven miles after leaving camp - and striking the St. Anthony road, is a wet prairie. After leaving - St. Anthony the country appears to rise towards the north; the road - lies on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, along the plateau, - which is generally timbered with the smaller varieties of oak, in - some places forming beautiful groves. On the road, and at Sauk - Rapids, several additional men were engaged, among them some - Canadian voyageurs. These men, being sometimes half-breeds, speak a - jargon of patois French, Chippewa, and other Indian dialects. They - are a hardy, willing, enduring class, and used to encounter all - sorts of difficulties in their journey between different posts of - the fur companies. They must be treated with kindness and a certain - degree of familiarity, and, their confidence and affections being - secured, they are the most obedient and hard-working fellows in the - world. This morning I learned that Lieutenant Grover and his - steamboat party had landed late last evening about five miles below - Sauk River, and had there encamped. In the afternoon, accompanied by - Boutineau, I crossed the Mississippi to find him, and went three - miles in a drenching rain without reaching his position. - - I dispatched Henry Boulieau in search of Lander, and he returned - with the information that Lander was about eighteen miles ahead at - Cold Spring, and that he had made there a good crossing for wagons. - - June 9. I went to Mr. Lander's camp, and examined the crossing, - which I find to be practicable, and the work well done. - - June 10. I returned to Lieutenant Grover's camp, which was - beautifully situated on the north bank of the Osakis or Sauk River, - about two miles from its mouth. The grass was indifferent and - backward, but, with half rations of oats, abundant for the animals; - water excellent. In honor of the Secretary of War, we named it Camp - Davis. Lieutenant Du Barry arrived this afternoon with his party, as - did the small trains of Doty and Simpson. A very severe - thunderstorm, with heavy rain for about five hours, occurred at - night, amounting in the rain-gauge to 6.1 inches. - - My acquaintance with the voyageurs, thus far, has impressed me - favorably. They are thorough woodsmen, and just the men for prairie - life also, going into the water as pleasantly as a spaniel, and - remaining there as long as needed; stout, able-bodied, and willing - to put their shoulders to the wheel whenever necessary; no slough or - bog deters them. - - Camp Davis, two miles west of the Mississippi River, - June 10, 1853. - - MY DEAREST WIFE,--We are getting on finely. Camp Pierce was broken - up on Monday, and in five days we have gone up the river seventy - miles, and the bulk of the party is now west of the Mississippi. - Yesterday I rode forward twenty-six miles to the crossing of the - Sauk River to make arrangements for the advance of the civil - engineer party. I had previously traveled rapidly from St. Anthony - to Sauk Rapids in a carriage, passing all the parties on the road. - It was a beautiful ride all the way, and I had a most interesting - companion in Pierre Boutineau, the great guide and voyageur of - Minnesota. He is famous as a buffalo-hunter, is a Chippewa - half-breed, and surpasses all of his class in truthfulness and great - intelligence. Not only is he experienced in all the vicissitudes of - travel and frontier life, being the hero of many interesting events, - but he has the broadness of view of an engineer, and I am confident - he will be of the greatest service to us in finding our way. At the - Falls of St. Anthony, where he resides, he is greatly esteemed, and - is known throughout the Territory. I breakfasted with him Monday - morning, and was delighted with the affection and respect with which - he inspired his whole household. There was his old Indian mother; - his four children by his first wife, a half-breed; his second wife - and babe; his sister; his brother and wife; and the wife of an - absent brother. We all sat down to a breakfast of two roasted - sucking-pigs, eggs, beefsteak, etc. He is a natural gentleman, and - in his family I saw exhibited the most refined and courteous - manners. - - He drove a pair of very spirited horses, and on the road, seeing - some plover, he called them to him and shot one. He understands, as - Mr. Sibley in Washington told me, everything from shooting a bird or - paddling a canoe to hunting buffalo, and conducting a large party - through a long extent of difficult country. I have also secured - Menoc, the best hunter of the Territory. He joins the party - to-morrow, and will in ten days be able to supply us with deer and - elk. - - June 12. Messrs. Osgood and Kendall reached camp this morning with - the barometers and india-rubber boats. At St. Louis I was - telegraphed that many of the barometers had been broken, and they - could not be supplied short of New York. They were absolutely - indispensable. I sent Mr. Kendall there immediately, and in thirty - days the boats and instruments were made and brought to my camp, - eighty miles on our way. Mr. Everett also arrived about noon to-day. - I regretted to observe that many of his animals were in very bad - condition. Of our whole number some forty were disabled, and eight - or ten so much so as to give very little hope that they could do any - further service. I refused, however, to sell even these to the many - applicants who expressed a willingness to take them off our hands - below the cost of purchase. Assembling both officers and men to-day, - I caused to be read the camp regulations, which I had prepared for - the government of the party, and made a short address, in which I - informed them that every man would be expected to look to the safety - of his comrades; that all alike, whether soldier or civilian, would - be expected to stand guard, and in case of difficulties to meet them - promptly. I exaggerated the difficulties which lay before us, and - represented that the country through which they would pass was - intersected by bogs, marshes, and deep morasses; that rivers were to - be forded and bridged, mountains and valleys to be crossed; that the - first one hundred and eighty miles of the journey was reported to - be through a continuous marsh, barely practicable, where every man - would have to go through mud and water and apply his shoulders to - the wheel; that in ten days we would reach the Indian country, where - heavy guard duty would have to be performed to protect property and - preserve lives; that still farther on we would probably be compelled - to force our way through the country of the Blackfoot Indians, a - tribe proverbially treacherous and warlike, that then the snows of - the mountains would have to be overcome, and that every man would be - expected to follow wherever he might be led; that no one would be - sacrificed, nor would any one be subjected to any risk which I would - not freely incur; and that whoever was not willing to coöperate with - us had better at once retire. After these remarks the camp - regulations were read by Mr. Kendall, and my views were cordially - approved. I dispatched Lieutenant Grover with a picked party of - fifteen men, with instructions to reconnoitre the country north, and - in the vicinity of White Bear Lake. - - June 13. Continuing the project of sending off the train in detached - parties, and thus gradually breaking up the camp, much of the day - was spent in preparing a party to be placed in charge of Dr. - Suckley. All was effected by four P.M., when his party, consisting - of Belland the guide, Menoc the hunter, a cook, Corporal Coster, and - two dragoons, with two led horses and two led mules, two men in - charge of them, Belland's riding horse, and a Pembina cart in charge - of Henry Boulieau, started from camp. He was instructed to follow - Lieutenant Grover's trail in easy marches, looking carefully to his - animals, and paying particular attention to the collections in - natural history. - - To-day I issued an order creating assimilated rank in the - expedition, by which certain gentlemen of the party were appointed - to the grade of lieutenant, and others to the grade of - non-commissioned officer, for convenience in detailing guard. By - this course the relative position of each man was fixed; and, - whether in the main or detached parties, it was known whose duty it - was to give orders in case of necessity. Military organization is in - some degree indispensable, and the idea of an escort has been - entirely abandoned. All are soldiers in the performance of guard - duty, and the soldiers accompanying us are on fatigue duty, and not - merely to escort us by day and to stand guard at night. Several of - the Pembina carts purchased by Dr. Borup arrived in camp to-day. - They are made entirely of wood, having no iron at all about them, - very roughly constructed, and the wheels usually wrapped with - rawhide or buffalo skin in place of an iron tire, to prevent their - cutting through the marshy ground so extensive between here and - Pembina. They are drawn by horses, oxen, or mules, one person - usually driving from two to six carts, and when loaded they will - carry from six to eight hundred pounds. They look as if made for - only one trip, and the creaking of the wheels on the wooden axle - does not give the idea of their standing much service. Their first - appearance, to those of the party unaccustomed to the sight, with - the oxen harnessed in them, caused much merriment, and as they moved - over the prairie, the singular noise produced by their wheels - assured us that, with such an accompaniment, no need existed for any - musical instrument or players, for these discoursed most sweetly. - -"There is no such thing as an escort to this expedition. Each man is -escorted by every other man," begins this order. It required each man -habitually to go armed; arms to be inspected morning and evening; no -march on Sundays, on which days thorough inspection of persons and -things to be made, and each man to bathe his whole person; each member -of the scientific corps to take care of his own horse, and to take from -and place in the wagons his own personal baggage; no firing on the -march; personal baggage reduced to twenty-five pounds per man. By the -strict enforcement of these stringent but salutary regulations, and the -extreme care with which all were required to treat the animals, Governor -Stevens conducted the entire expedition without the loss of a man, save -one who shot himself by accident, and the animals actually improved on -the march. - - June 14. Spent the day in making the necessary arrangements to push - forward the whole camp, to be organized for the present in detached - parties under separate heads, and all under my general direction. - Lieutenant Du Barry was placed in general charge of the - meteorological observations and of the train, as executive officer. - Everything now presents a favorable aspect, and all will be ready to - move off to-morrow morning. Procured several more Pembina carts. - Engaged to-day Paul Boulieau, a half-breed Chippewa of collegiate - education, who has filled a seat in the territorial legislature with - credit, and also been long in the service of the fur company. He was - placed in charge of the Pembina train, so called, which, consisting - at first of five carts, each drawn by an ox, was this day increased - by a very superior wagon team, drawn by two yoke of very large and - serviceable oxen. It may here be observed that the Pembina train, - managed entirely by the voyageurs, invariably moved by itself, - crossed all the streams without additional assistance, gave us the - least trouble in supervision, and was altogether the most economical - and effective transportation we had. A pioneer wagon containing - rations for the advance party and the india-rubber boats, loaded - lightly in order in case of necessity to be pushed rapidly forward - to the advance parties, and a wagon of Indian goods, were with the - train. The arrangements thus made left me free to be either with the - advance parties or with the train, or to make personal examinations - of important features of the country off the lines of the trail. - -Again sending on detached parties, under Lieutenant Grover, Dr. Suckley, -Lander, and Tinkham, the march was resumed to Pike Lake, a distance of -eighty-one miles. The season was unusually backward, the rains frequent -and heavy, and great labor was required in crossing the swollen -streams,--some by bridging, others by means of the india-rubber floats -for ferrying over the goods while the animals swam across. The wagons, -bogged in the miry ground, had to be frequently unloaded and loaded -again; but many soft and marshy places were made passable by covering -the road deep with cut grass, for which purpose the governor, with his -usual foresight, had provided scythes. The country, with its beautiful -prairies, groves, and lakes, and many streams and bogs to be crossed, -and the incidents of the march are graphically described in Governor -Stevens's report, with many views taken along the route. The following -extracts will show the character of the country and the difficulties -overcome:-- - - June 16. Three miles from Camp Davis we passed through a belt of - woods for two miles, where the flies were excessively annoying, - persecuting our animals so that it was hard to keep them in the - road, as they constantly attempted to rush into the bushes. The - country to Cold Spring has a rich alluvial soil, with scattered - groves of timber. It is mostly level prairie, occasionally broken by - a small stream, and is excellent for agricultural purposes. Passing - through Lieutenant Du Barry's camp, I went on to Dr. Suckley's, on - the west side of the Sauk. Sauk River at our ford is about one - hundred and twenty feet wide, though, owing to the obliquity of the - banks and rapidity of current, the ford is near three hundred feet - wide and the water five feet deep. - - June 17. This morning I started with Dr. Suckley and went on to Lake - Henry, nineteen and a half miles. The country was a rolling prairie, - interspersed with small sloughs filled by the recent rains; the soil - is rich and black, grass good, and occasionally gravelly hillocks. - In the crossing of the Sauk by the main train, the india-rubber - boats were for the first time used. The larger one is about twelve - feet long and four wide, weighing seventy-five pounds, the other - about one fifth smaller. A rope was stretched across the stream, and - the boats ferried across by means of a ring attached to their bows, - and sliding along the rope. They succeeded admirably, and a birch - canoe, managed by one of the voyageurs, was also used in crossing. - Some of the men were in the water for hours, but worked faithfully - and efficiently. Lieutenant Du Barry effected the crossing in one - day, and encamped on the west side of the river, six miles from Cold - Spring. - - June 18. Left camp about seven o'clock, and in about three quarters - of a mile crossed a bad place, requiring some grass. The water was - two feet deep, and the bottom miry. Our road lay through a beautiful - prairie. The shores of Lake Henry are heavily wooded. In two and a - half miles farther we found two very wet places, one hundred yards - apart. In two miles farther we came to a long marsh, where the - ground was very soft, and where our wagons stalled. Three quarters - of a mile beyond we encountered a very deep, muddy slough, to cross - which we had recourse to a long rope, and all our force pulled on - it. A branch of Crow River is then reached in a mile, or a little - more. It is about twelve feet wide and two deep; both sides are - overflown marsh, making the place very difficult to cross. To avoid - breaking bulk, we again used the long rope, and attaching three - pairs of mules to it, all our men pulling on it at the same time, we - got the wagon through. We arrived about noon at Crow Wing River, - nine miles from camp. It was four or five feet deep and twenty feet - wide, and at this time overflowing its usual banks. Broke bulk here, - the men packing our stuff across. Passing Crow River, we find a - continuous grove of oak-trees on our left, and in five miles a - series of small lakes on our right, not wooded but abounding in - game. Arrived at camp on Lightning Lake about half past eight P.M. - Distance traveled, eighteen miles and three quarters. The frequent - sloughs and bad crossings in our march to-day added much to the - labors of the men and animals. After the hard day's march we enjoyed - our supper of game, cooked in hunter's style on sticks before the - fire, although it was midnight before we could have it ready. - - June 19, Sunday. Lightning Lake is a very beautiful sheet of water, - so called from the fact that during Captain Pope's expedition, while - encamped here, one of those storms so fearfully violent in this - country occurred, during which one of his party was instantly killed - by a stroke of lightning. Its northern shore is thickly studded with - timber, and the southern side, upon which we are encamped, affords - an ample supply for all camping purposes. Pickerel, pike, and bass - fill the lake, numbers of which our parties caught; and ducks, - geese, swans, plover, and prairie chicken abound in the vicinity. - The day of rest was enjoyed by the whole party; some fishing, - washing and mending their clothes, others trying various modes of - cooking the game and fish which abounded. Evans succeeded admirably - in roasting a fish in the ashes, first rolling it up in brown paper - dampened, which, when removed, brought off the scales with it, - leaving the meat clean and well done. Early after dinner Mr. Osgood - arrived, informing me that Lieutenant Du Barry, misconstruing my - instructions, had declined to allow him to bring forward the two - wagons which I had ordered for the use of the advanced parties. - - June 20. Started at 3.30 A.M. to go back to the main train, which I - met five miles west of Lake Henry. Taking charge of the train - myself, I directed Boutineau to explore in advance for the most - practicable route. The bad crossing referred to in the narrative of - the 18th was, by great exertion and the united force of the whole - party, effected without accident, and the whole train reached - Lightning Lake by 4.30 P.M. - -Lieutenant Du Barry appears to have felt affronted at the action of the -governor in taking the personal charge of the train, and indeed the -latter was apt to be pretty severe and decided if anything went wrong. -It will be observed how summarily he weeded out and sent back -inefficient men:-- - - June 21. In compliance with his own request, I relieved Lieutenant - Du Barry from duty with the expedition, and ordered him to report in - person to the Adjutant-General in Washington. He was desired to call - upon the Secretary of War and acquaint him with the whole history of - the expedition up to this point; and, to enable him to reach the - settlements with some degree of comfort and expedition, I dispatched - Mr. Kendall and two of the voyageurs to accompany him as far as Long - Prairie on his return, whence there would be no difficulty in his - procuring transportation to Sauk Rapids. - - Captain Remenyi and his assistant, Mr. Jekelfaluzy, were discharged - to-day, as they did not perform their duties to my satisfaction. - - All these matters detained us until 4.30 P.M., when I pushed forward - with Dr. Suckley's and the scientific parties. The clouds were - gathering and indicated a severe gust. We reached a beautiful lake - about three miles distant, called by us Lake Stanley, in honor of - the artist of the expedition, and had just time to get into camp to - save ourselves from a very severe storm, which continued with great - violence till near seven P.M. - - June 22. My party, leaving Dr. Suckley, got off about six A.M. We - arrived at White Bear Lake, about nine and a half miles from the - morning's camp, at 10.15 A.M. Leaving Lightning Lake the country - seems to change its character, and is no longer a flat, - undiversified surface, with occasionally a gentle undulation - scarcely attracting attention. It has gradually changed to a heavy, - rolling prairie, which, before approaching White Bear Lake, becomes - broken up into hills, valleys, and basins varying from thirty to - fifty feet in depth. Boulders and stones, from the size of pebbles - to paving-stones, are very numerous. Our route to-day appears to be - gradually ascending at a probable rate of eight or ten feet per - mile. White Bear Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, bordered with - timber, about fourteen miles long and two wide, with high, swelling - banks, running back a mile or so, and rising to the height of about - one hundred and fifty feet. As the animals looked so fresh, and the - day was cool and good for traveling, we halted only for a rest. - About five miles from the lake we came to a stream, apparently - running into it. Other bad places occurred; soft bogs, marshes, and - brooks impeded our progress so much that we did not get into camp - until three P.M., making nine and one third miles from our - halting-place, and eighteen and three fourths for our day's march. - Our camp was on a very rapid stream, with steep, high banks. We - called it Lambert River, in honor of our topographer, who received a - sad overturn as he crossed it with Lieutenant Grover's command. - - The main train in charge of Mr. Osgood moved from camp on Lightning - Lake at seven o'clock, after settling a difficulty of a very serious - aspect growing out of a strike of all the teamsters, in consequence - of a discharge by him of six of their number, according to my - directions, because their services were not required. They - threatened to shoot the first driver who moved out of camp. Mr. - Osgood declared that he would drive out each wagon himself. Finally, - after some discussion, the discharged men moved off cheerfully, and - the main train pushed forward to White Bear Lake. - - June 23. Our first labor this morning was to cross the stream at a - point half a mile from our camp, from which we moved about six. This - crossing delayed our little party some two hours. Grass had to be - cut and placed on both sides of the stream. The banks were steep and - soft, and it required the presence of a man or two at each wheel to - keep the wagons in motion and prevent their being stuck in the mire. - The country to-day appears admirably adapted to grazing purposes, - and the bottoms, of frequent occurrence, are of a very rich - character. Marshes and little streams, bordered by soft places, - occur frequently. In one of these places, fully one hundred feet in - length, one of our wagons got mired, making it necessary to remove - part of its load to get it through. - - About ten A.M. I left the train in charge of Mr. G.W. Stevens, and, - pushing on, reached Lieutenant Grover's camp about twelve. The train - arrived at half past one, crossed a marsh and a small stream, and - encamped opposite the camps of Messrs. Grover, Lander, and Tinkham. - Lieutenant Grover's camp is beautifully situated on the shores of - Pike Lake. The main train and Dr. Suckley's party arrived about half - past eight, and the whole expedition was again brought together. - This I consider the real starting-point of the expedition, and named - our camp here Camp Marcy, in honor of the Secretary of State. We - remained here a day in order to give the animals a chance to rest. - They appear to be in very good condition, and the grazing is fine. - Received of the various scientific chiefs reports of their labors to - this point. - - - - - CHAPTER XVII - - PIKE LAKE TO FORT UNION - - -From Pike Lake the expedition pursued a general course westerly by ten -degrees northerly in order to clear the great northeastern bend of the -Missouri, and reached Fort Union in thirty-eight days, traversing a -distance of five hundred and fifty miles. A compass and odometer line -was run with the main party. Pursuing his system of exploring a wide -scope of country by means of detached parties, Governor Stevens -dispatched Lieutenant Grover with a picked party to survey a separate -route south of that of the main body as far as Fort Union, and kept -Lander, Tinkham, Dr. Suckley, Lambert, Doty, and Adams, with small -parties of the voyageurs, examining the country within forty miles of -the route by frequent side trips. The main train crossed the Red River -near the town of Breckenridge, the James River some distance north of -Jamestown, and skirted the Mouse River near Minot, on the Great Northern -Railroad, from which point to Fort Union, and for hundreds of miles -beyond, that railroad follows Governor Stevens's route. It is -characteristic of the governor that in sending officers on the detached -trips he always furnished them the best men and animals of the party, -frequently allowing them to select them themselves. On July 12 he -overstrained himself in his exertions to prevent a herd of buffalo from -stampeding the train, and the old rupture, which had given him so much -trouble in Mexico, broke out afresh, and obliged him to ride in an -ambulance for many hundreds of miles. But his spirit and energy were -no-wise quelled by this grievous physical disability. The graphic -descriptions of the country, the incidents of the march, the encounter -with countless herds of buffalo, and the meetings with the Red River -hunters and Assiniboine Indians are given in the final report with a -fullness of detail which cannot be attempted here, but the following -extracts will give a fair idea of this stage of the exploration:-- - - June 24. I directed Lieutenant Grover to select a party of twenty - picked men, twenty-six mules, three horses, and twenty-five days' - provisions, including an ox, with which to go forward on the Dead - Colt Hillock line. In thus giving to Lieutenant Grover his own - selection of animals and men, my purpose was to make him in the - highest degree effective in the means at his disposal, and to - demonstrate by the success of his undertaking the entire feasibility - of operating in detached parties. Messrs. Lander and Tinkham moved - forward this afternoon to Chippewa River. - - On counting rations, it was found that for the main party there was - a supply for twenty days, while it might take forty-five to reach - Fort Union. But with the eight oxen in the carts, and the known - abundance of game, I feared no scarcity. The men showed some - anxiety, and talked of a strike, but, seeing the confidence of the - officers, abandoned any open demonstration. I had ordered a reducing - of rations whenever the quantity of game would justify it, and - henceforward I gave the most particular attention to it, so that, - although we did not reach the Yellowstone for thirty-eight days, - there was at no time a scarcity of provisions. - - June 25. To-day the expedition may be considered fairly under way. - Lieutenant Grover started at 7.30 A.M. The main party, under my own - direction, moved forward at about the same time. In ten miles - reached the Chippewa River. The india-rubber boats did good service, - carrying over each time more than half a wagon-load. The whole train - was all well encamped two miles further on at a fine lake by sunset. - - June 26. The main party moved to-day to the camp of Mr. Tinkham of - last night, and the whole command was over the river and in camp by - six o'clock. As we were now approaching the Indian country, I - systematized all the arrangements of camp and guards, and the - details of duty on the march. The dragoons were distributed as - follows: two for the pack-train; two with a led horse each for - reconnoitring duty; two to strike and pitch tents; two to catch - fish; two with the howitzer; Sergeant Lindner and seven men with the - main column. The sergeant was, moreover, charged with the duty of - laying out the encampment under my direction. For the care of the - camp, an officer of the guard, who also served as officer of the - day, two non-commissioned officers, and six privates were detailed. - - Cook-fires to be made at two A.M.; the cooks and teamsters called at - three, and the animals to be put in good grass; reveille to be - sounded at four, and all the officers to be called by name; the - whole camp to breakfast about four, and the teamsters immediately to - commence harnessing up; tents struck by half past four, and camp in - motion by five; the sentinels instructed to fire upon any prowling - Indians. - - June 27. Camp roused at four A.M. While at breakfast, Lieutenant - Moffett gave me notice that we had but four minutes left to eat in, - and, as we failed to get through, he had the tents struck over our - heads. The train moved at five o'clock. About eight miles from camp - passed Elbow Lake, fourteen miles reached Rabbit River, followed the - stream to where it empties into Bell's Lake, and, going along the - beach through water eight inches deep with a pebbly bottom, we found - a good crossing, though a ridge has to be ascended before getting - upon the plain where our camp is placed. The grass is most - excellent, and the animals, accustomed to each other, are visibly - improving. - - Tuesday, June 28. At half past ten A.M. the advance had crossed - Rabbit River, fifteen miles from camp, and halted until the arrival - of the main train. Leaving the train to rest, the advance started at - two. In three miles met Mr. Lander, whose camp was with Mr. - Tinkham's, and went into camp at five on the Bois de Sioux, and were - joined by the whole party at nine o'clock, after a march of - twenty-seven miles over a country that had been invariably reported - the very worst of the whole route. Our animals, though somewhat - tired, immediately went to feeding. There were some soft places - between the Rabbit River and the Bois de Sioux, in which the animals - were mired and wagons stalled; but we were agreeably disappointed in - having comparatively a very comfortable day's journey. - - Numerous large catfish were caught this afternoon, some weighing - from twelve to twenty pounds. At half past eleven P.M. we sat down - to a supper of ducks, catfish, and coffee, and all the men were in - fine spirits. The Bois de Sioux had been a great point to - reach,--the end of bad roads and the commencement of the buffalo - country. Here we may take a general review of the country since - leaving St. Paul. - - Between Camp Pierce and Sauk Rapids, seventy-nine miles, the road - passes through beautiful prairies and oak openings, with occasional - meadows, wet at this early season, and, at some distance to the - right, groves of tamarack, varying the landscape with their light - and feathery foliage. - - From the crossing at Sauk Rapids to Lightning Lake most of the - country is rolling prairie, with the wooded banks of Sauk River on - the south, and numerous small ponds and lakes with trees on their - banks, abundant and excellent pasture, and swarms of water-fowl, - supplying plenty of fresh provisions. - - A similar delightful country continues to the Bois de Sioux River, - with some decrease in the amount of timber, until the banks of that - river are reached. - - After leaving Lightning Lake the country seems to change its - character; no longer a flat, undiversified surface, or with gentle - undulations scarcely attracting notice, it has gradually changed to - a heavy, rolling prairie, and at White Bear Lake becomes broken up - into hills, valleys, and basins. Boulders and smaller stones are - numerous. - - This whole dividing ridge, then, separating the waters of the - Mississippi from those of the Red River, which flow into Hudson Bay, - is not the lofty range of mountains which might be supposed to - separate the sources of two such great bodies of water flowing in - opposite directions and to outlets so widely distant, but is a - gently undulating and exceedingly rich prairie country, abundantly - wooded and watered, having a width of one hundred miles, and an - elevation not exceeding six hundred feet above the river and about - sixteen hundred above the sea. There is a very slight rise in the - general level in going westward, the Bois de Sioux being at the - crossing only thirty-one feet higher than the Mississippi at Sauk - Rapids. Undulating and level prairies, skirted by woods of various - growth, and clothed everywhere with rich verdure; numerous and rapid - streams, with innumerable small but limpid lakes, frequented by - multitudes of wild fowl, most conspicuous among which appears the - stately swan,--these, in ever-recurring succession, make up the - panorama of this extensive district, which may be said to be - everywhere fertile, beautiful, and inviting. - - The most remarkable features of this region are the intervals of - level prairie, especially that near the bend of the branches of Red - River, where the horizon is as unbroken as that of a calm sea. Nor - are other points of resemblance wanting: the long grass, which in - such places is unusually rank, bending gracefully to the passing - breeze as it sweeps along the plain, gives the idea of waves (as - indeed they are); and the solitary horseman on the horizon is so - indistinctly seen as to complete the picture by the suggestion of a - sail, raising the first feelings of novelty to a character of wonder - and delight. The flowing outlines of the rolling prairies are broken - only by the small lakes and patches of timber, which relieve them of - monotony and enhance their beauty; and though marshes and sloughs - occur, they are too small and infrequent to affect the generally - attractive character of the country. The elevation of the rolling - prairie is generally so uniform that even the summits between - streams flowing in opposite directions exhibit no peculiar features - to distinguish them from the ordinary valley slopes. - - Wednesday, June 29. The advance parties crossed the river before - seven o'clock, but the train was not started till eleven, so as to - give the animals rest. The ford, very good for a small train, became - very muddy towards the last, and though we unloaded all the wagons - and carried the loads over in boats, the wagons and animals were - badly stalled at the edges and on the soft and steep banks of the - river. The country from the Bois de Sioux to the Wild Rice River is - a broad, level prairie, covered with luxuriant grass eighteen inches - high; the distance eleven miles, with occasional sloughs. The heat - to-day was excessive, and the mosquitoes very annoying to men and - animals. At four o'clock, profiting by our experience in crossing - the Bois de Sioux, I sent Mr. Lander with a select force of axemen - to cut timber to bridge the Wild Rice. The train came up slowly, the - last wagons not reaching camp till midnight. - - Thursday, June 30. Part of the men were employed in carefully - currying and washing the animals, and in catching fish; the - remainder were detailed to build the bridge, which was completed by - one P.M. It was made of heavy logs, filled in with cut willow-brush - and mown grass. Moved at two o'clock; in three miles came to a small - creek, which was quite marshy, and caused delay to cross. Moving a - mile and a half farther we again struck the same stream, and - encamped at half past four P.M. During our march we encountered a - very severe storm, accompanied with thunder and lightning. Boutineau - brought in an elk, which furnished about two pounds of excellent - fresh meat to each man, and was much enjoyed. Kendall and the two - Boulieaus overtook us to-day, bringing supplies and five Indian - ponies. - - July 1. I determined to push forward with the engineer party to the - Sheyenne, and, if I found it necessary, have it bridged. Smooth - prairie extended all the way, road good, and the distance twenty-six - and a half miles. A very severe thunderstorm occurred this morning, - lasting an hour, and wetting us thoroughly. At eleven A.M. we met - the train of the Red River traders, and visited their camp, six - miles distant. We were very hospitably received, purchased some - pemmican, common moccasins, and articles of dress worked with - porcupine quills. Bought also some carts and oxen, being very - deficient in transportation. - - The main train only proceeded thirteen miles, and I returned to them - about three P.M., accompanied by Kittson, Father Delacour, Roulet, - and Cavilaer. Kittson and Roulet were members of the territorial - legislature from Pembina; Cavilaer, the collector of customs; and - Delacour is a very clever, shrewd priest. They are on their annual - trip to St. Paul with robes, skins, pemmican, and dried meat of the - buffalo, collected by trading with the half-breeds of the Red River - settlements. We found that they had bridged the Sheyenne, saving us - considerable trouble and delay. Their company proved very agreeable, - and we were glad that a heavy thunderstorm coming on obliged them to - be our guests for the night. - - July 2. Struck camp at seven o'clock and parted with our new - friends, sending back with them Strobel and two teamsters, who - proved inefficient. The whole train crossed the Sheyenne bridge - safely by noon, and camped on the other side. We had apprehended - that possibly the heavy rain of last night would swell the river and - carry away the bridge, but hurrying up the wagons, we made the - crossing just before the water had risen sufficiently to flow over - the bridge. I called this camp McClelland, intending to halt here - over Sunday and make up dispatches for Washington. I sent Lander and - Tinkham to reconnoitre both up and down the river. - - July 3, Sunday. Lander came back from his reconnoissance, having - been as far south as Dead Colt Hillock. He met with a singular - adventure, which afforded us a great deal of amusement. Riding along - with his four voyageurs, whom he used to call his "men of iron," at - some distance ahead they saw a skunk moving leisurely through the - grass, with tail erect and defying their approach. Lander leveled - his glass at it, and, satisfying himself that it was an Indian - watching their movements and trying to hide himself, gave the order - for his gallant band to "charge." They did charge, and at the same - time firing their revolvers, the poor skunk fell, riddled with balls - and weltering in his blood; when coming up, they discovered the - extent of their bold exploit. Joking in camp is one of the pastimes - to relieve the annoyances of the march, and every little thing is - seized upon to feed the disposition. - - Fourth of July. The train started at six A.M. I remained behind to - get off a mail. Started about ten and followed the Red River trail - some twelve miles, when we left it altogether. Crossed Maple River, - and camped on its banks. About dusk we raised the American flag, - made of red and white shirts, contributed by the party and sewed - together by Boulieau. As it went up, the assembled command gave it - three hearty cheers, and then indulged in some refreshments in honor - of the day, ending the evening with songs and story-telling. - - July 5. Traveled twenty miles over a high, firm, and almost level - prairie, camping on a small branch of Maple River without any wood - near it. The pack-train requiring more attention and care of the - animals than has been given by the man in charge, who does not take - sufficient pains with the disabled animals, I to-day directed Mr. - Kendall to oversee them and have them properly attended to. - - July 6. Went twenty miles farther, making a noon halt of two hours, - when Mr. Tinkham returned from a long and rapid reconnoissance - ahead. Prairie more rolling, but road good. A high butte to the left - of our course enabled me to get a fine view of the surrounding - country. Two Indians were seen by Boutineau, who was out after - buffalo, which he did not find; but abundance of ducks continue to - supply the camp with fresh meat. - - July 7. About 8.30 we struck the Sheyenne six miles from camp, and - rested an hour. Keeping the Sheyenne on our left, we moved forward - ten miles and camped about a mile and a half from the river on the - banks of a fine lake. To-day Le Frambois and Menoc killed an old - buffalo bull, and also brought in some dozen geese. Several of the - messes supplied themselves with frogs, which have been most abundant - on our march for the past two days. The whole command took supper - off of buffalo, and the meat, though old and tough, tasted very - good, and saved us an ox which had been destined for the slaughter. - Several antelopes and wolves were seen to-day. - - July 8. Started this morning at 6.30, and arrived at the crossing of - the Sheyenne River after a march of fifteen miles. Buttes in - considerable number are seen ahead, among which the Horse Butte and - the Butte Micheau are plainly visible. Mr. Tinkham, Paul, and Henry - were out again to-day, making a reconnoissance on the Sheyenne. We - went into camp about one o'clock on the east and south side of the - Sheyenne, and a party was at once detailed to cut wood and prepare - charcoal. The magnetic tent was put up, and the astronomical and - meteorological parties went immediately to work. I called our camp - Camp Guthrie, in honor of the Secretary of the Treasury, and - determined to remain here all day to-morrow. - - Boutineau and Henry Boulieau went out this afternoon, and returned - with the choice pieces of a fine, fat, young buffalo bull, and we - made a delightful meal, around the fire, of the ribs, marrow-bones, - etc., cooked hunter's fashion. Towards evening, on the coteau on the - other side of the river, a herd of some twenty elks made their - appearance. Numerous wolves were also seen, which, during the night, - kept up a constant howling. We planted flags on high hills in the - vicinity as signals to Lander, who may follow the Sheyenne River to - find our crossing-place. - - July 9. An accurate return was made of the provisions on hand, so as - to regulate its weekly distribution. Our flour is fast diminishing, - and the issue was reduced to half a pound per day to each man. This - state of affairs caused considerable grumbling in camp. We are fast - approaching the buffalo country, and then shall be expected to do - with much less. About 2.30 P.M. the main train under Mr. Osgood - crossed the river, and moved forward to a good camping-place. The - astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological parties, with the detail - of three men attending to the coal-pit, and Mr. Evans and myself, - remained at Camp Guthrie, intending to join them before they moved - in the morning. - - July 10. After partaking of a cup of coffee at three o'clock, our - little train, consisting of an ambulance and spring wagon with a - cart loaded with charcoal, had crossed the Sheyenne by sunrise. - About seven o'clock we reached the main train, encamped some seven - miles off. The train was preparing to move, and soon after we came - up it started; at eight o'clock we followed and passed them. About - five miles from camp we ascended to the top of a high hill, and for - a great distance ahead every square mile seemed to have a herd of - buffalo on it. Their number was variously estimated by the members - of the party, some as high as half a million. I do not think it is - any exaggeration to set it down at 200,000. I had heard of the - myriads of these animals inhabiting these plains, but I could not - realize the truth of these accounts till to-day, when they surpassed - anything I could have imagined from the accounts which I had - received. - - The timber bordering on Lake Jessie was distinctly visible ahead, - and between us and it were countless herds of buffalo, through - which we were compelled to pass. The train moved on till eleven - o'clock, when we all halted, drew up in line, and picketed the loose - animals. Six of the hunters, Boutineau, Menoc, Le Frambois, the two - Boulieaus, and Rummell, were mounted upon the best horses in the - command, some of which were specially reserved, and rode off in fine - style, keeping together till ready to dash in among the herd. The - immense sea of flesh remained quiet until their approach, and then, - separating, they rode in among them, selected the fat cows, and, - riding around until the proper time to do execution, the quick - succession of shots announced the fact that our supplies of meat - were fast being added to. In less than an hour a wagon was called - into requisition to collect the choice pieces of nine buffalo cows. - While we were resting, several small bands came within firing - distance of our train. One or two dragoons on foot gave one a chase, - but the buffalo, of course, distanced them. The most amusing scene - was the dog Zack, of the dragoon detachment, dashing into a whole - herd, and following them a considerable distance. Paul Boulieau and - Rummell were both thrown by their horses stumbling in one of the - numerous holes with which the prairie abounds. They were - considerably, though not seriously, hurt. - - We arrived at Lake Jessie at three P.M., the bluff shore on which we - encamped being sixty-four feet above the level of the lake. The - water of Lake Jessie is considerably saline in its character; but - about three quarters of a mile from camp, an excellent spring of - good, fresh water was found by Henry Boulieau and myself while out - on a reconnoitring trip. - - Between one and two o'clock at night a herd of buffalo approached - our camp, and it required all the exertions of the guard, assisted - by many of the men, to prevent an entire stampede of all our - animals. As it was, some got loose, though none were lost. The - buffalo were followed a considerable distance, and some ten or a - dozen shots were fired before the animals without were entirely - driven off. - - July 11. Having proceeded about four miles, a small band of buffalo - started off ahead of us. Le Frambois's horse and four loose mules - near the head of the column started in pursuit, the horse taking the - lead. Boutineau, Le Frambois, Menoc, Guy, Lindner, and Paul - Boulieau, all well mounted, gave chase in hopes of recovering them. - By this time they had mixed up in the herd, and, though they were - followed some twelve or fifteen miles, all efforts to secure them - were unavailing. About a mile farther we encountered a very severe - slough, the approach to which was marked by a very great curiosity - in the form of a buffalo trail; at least 100,000 must have crossed - here by the footprints and marks visible, and I determined on - crossing the slough at the same point which the instinct of these - animals had selected. - - July 12. In company with Tinkham and some of the guides, I started - from camp this morning at five o'clock, designing to be in advance - of the train some miles, to reconnoitre and pick out a good road, - our route lying over high hills. - - At about eight o'clock I sent off Mr. Tinkham, accompanied by the - two Boulieaus, well mounted, with instructions to go southward, - determining the position of the headwaters of Bald Hillock Creek, - and thus connecting his work with Mr. Lander's reconnoissance; - thence westward in a line nearly parallel with our route of to-day, - making a reconnoissance of the tributaries of the Jacques River - (James), leaving it to his discretion whether to join our camp - to-night or the next day. By this we would secure the reconnoissance - of a belt of country forty miles wide, lying between the Sheyenne - and Jacques (James) rivers. - - About eleven miles from camp we crossed a deep slough. About a mile - farther on we crossed a fine little stream which I took to be Beaver - Lodge Creek. Shortly afterwards Boutineau killed a fine buffalo cow, - not twenty feet from the compass line. The dispatch and dexterity - with which these men cut up buffalo is truly astonishing. Before the - cart came up, the animal was entirely butchered, and had only to be - thrown into the cart. We moved forward to-day some sixteen miles, - and camped on the side of a small lake. We had scarcely got into - camp before we were visited by a very severe storm, accompanied by - thunder and lightning. Our fires were put out by the rain, and - during a temporary cessation were built up again; but it soon came - on with increased violence, and our fires were again washed out. - About six o'clock two of Mr. Lander's party who left us on the 4th - arrived in camp, announcing that Mr. Lander and the rest of his men - were only some three or four miles behind, with considerable - difficulty bringing in the horses, which were giving out.[3] I - dispatched two men with led horses to meet them, and about sundown - they came up. We found great difficulty in keeping up our fires so - as to get our supper cooked. The rain fell in torrents, our supply - of wood was limited, and the buffalo chips were so wet as to be - entirely useless. - - Towards the close of the day's march I became disabled from my - exertions in endeavoring to keep off a herd of buffalo from the - train, causing an old wound to break out, which compelled me to ride - many hundred miles in the ambulance. - - July 13. A very heavy fog this morning delayed our getting off as - early as expected, and the hope of Tinkham and his small party - joining us made me less hurried about starting. Sixteen miles from - camp we struck James River, and crossed over a good ford, from which - point I sent Mr. Lander down the river to examine it. Noticing that - the river ran very nearly in the course of our compass, we followed - it, and again crossing it some five miles above, we encamped. I had - a large amount of rushes collected, with a view of building as large - a camp-fire as practicable, in order to give notice to Tinkham of - our position, he not having returned. - - July 14. The missing party not having arrived, three rounds of the - howitzer were fired at sunrise, and we started later than usual. It - was evident that the whole camp was in a great state of anxiety for - the safety of our comrades. Many believed that they had fallen in - with Indians, and were deprived of their horses and their lives. - Taking everything into consideration, I deemed it best to leave a - party at this point so equipped as to combine great energy and force - with promptness of movement, so as to be able to overtake the main - train without difficulty. Accordingly Mr. Lander was left in charge - of the engineer wagon and the wagon belonging to the mountain - howitzer, which was made light enough to be moved with ease forty - miles in a single day. The howitzer was also left with him for the - purpose of making signals. Mr. Doty, with three voyageurs and three - men to manage the howitzer, together with the teamsters of the - ammunition wagon, remained with Mr. Lander, having abundance of - arms, provisions, animals, etc., to supply any emergency. This party - was instructed to keep up fires, to fire three rounds with the - howitzer at noon and at sunset should the party not arrive, and to - communicate with us if any casualty occurred. - - A party of four brave and thorough woodsmen, whose knowledge of the - prairie life was derived from experience in many expeditions, and - who well understood the Indian character, were sent out on the route - traveled yesterday, and were directed, after traveling some eight or - ten miles, to leave the road, and, going in different directions, to - plant signals and scour the country. I felt certain that Mr. Tinkham - would be found by these men, if found at all. - - The remainder of the train left about seven o'clock, pursuing the - same course as yesterday. The first ten miles was over a level - plateau. We encamped about 4.30 o'clock at the bank of a fine lake, - having made to-day a distance of little over twenty miles. The - mosquitoes were exceedingly annoying, flying against the sides of - the tents with a noise like the pattering of rain, while the inside - was perfectly black with them. Their constant humming drove the men - out into the open air, and rendered it almost impossible to sleep. - - July 15. At daybreak Broadwell went back to Lander's camp, and I - dispatched Osgood and Kendall to a high hill to reconnoitre and look - for a new camp. The guides and hunters were also sent on to the - Sheyenne to ascertain the distance, and if not too far we would go - to it. Being very unwell, I laid by all the morning, and the delay - of the train was employed in shoeing the animals, equalizing loads, - and arranging them in such a manner as to give about nine hundred - pounds to each wagon, and so distributed in bulk that a portion of - each wagon could be appropriated to the conveyance of wood and the - meat killed each day. - - The men are much interested in the labors of Dr. Suckley, the - naturalist. It is amusing to see each one making his contribution of - snakes, reptiles, birds, bugs, etc. - - Near noon Osgood and his party returned, having been to the - Sheyenne, where they found no wood, poor grass, and swarms of - mosquitoes. Soon after the guides returned, announcing that they had - seen a party of Sioux of a thousand lodges, not more than nine miles - in advance of us. Boutineau's manner was full of fear, and his - public announcement spread alarm through the whole camp. I at once - gave orders to make ready, with the intention of visiting their - camp; and, calling Boutineau to my tent, asked him whether they were - not the Red River hunting party. He assured me indignantly that "he - knew half-breeds from Indians, and that they were certainly Sioux." - - I suggested that they might be friendly Sioux, who, being engaged in - the hunt and hearing of our approach, were coming forward to meet - us, to receive the usual presents and gratify their curiosity. He - still insisted that they were hostile Sioux, and saw in their - presence the explanation of the cause of the absence of the missing - party. We were, in his opinion, to be surrounded and cut off. - - After dinner, as the alarm was spreading throughout the command, the - arms were inspected and ammunition distributed, and orders given to - have the train in readiness to move at once. I sent Boutineau, Le - Frambois, and Menoc to the top of a high ridge as a lookout, while a - flag was prepared to be sent forward if necessary. Word soon came - that the country was alive with Indians, who were fast surrounding - us; and I sent scouts to hills on the right and left, having the - lake to protect our rear. Mounting my horse, I rode to the hill in - front, and saw two horsemen rapidly approaching. Our flag-bearers - rode forward to meet them, and soon discovered that they were two of - the Red River hunters, and that their camp was three miles beyond - the Sheyenne. Having discerned our party, they came to invite us to - visit them, and expressed their kindly feelings for us. The train, - which before this was in motion, arranged in a double line, with the - pack and loose animals between, proceeded two miles, where there was - better water, and encamped. - - The agreeable disappointment established a fine feeling throughout - camp; and, half an hour after, Boulieau and Lindner arrived in camp - with news of Tinkham's safety, which was received with three cheers. - The men to-day showed a good spirit, and although there was - naturally some anxiety, they obeyed every order with alacrity. Thus - ended the apprehensions of the command concerning Indians. - - - RED RIVER HUNTERS. - - July 16. Awaited the coming up of the back parties, and during the - morning Tinkham arrived and was received with nine cheers, being - followed soon after by the rest of the rear guard. About two P.M. - the whole Red River train came in sight, and as they approached, - fired a succession of volleys of firearms as a salute, which we - returned with three rounds from the howitzer. The train consisted of - 824 carts, about 1200 animals, and 1300 persons, men, women, and - children, the whole presenting a very fine appearance. - - They encamped near by, and the close yard which they formed - presented quite a contrast to the open camp adopted by us. They made - a circular or square yard of the carts, placed side by side, with - the hubs adjoining, presenting a barrier impassable either to man or - beast. The tents or lodges were arranged within at a distance of - about twenty feet from the carts, and were of a conical shape, built - of poles covered with skins, with an opening at the top for the - passage of smoke and for ventilation. They were one hundred and four - in number, being occupied generally by two families, averaging about - ten persons to the lodge. Skins were spread over the tops of the - carts, and underneath many of the train found comfortable - lodging-places. The animals were allowed to run loose during the day - to feed, but were driven into the corral at dark. Thirty-six of the - men were posted as sentinels, remaining on guard all night. We had - but twelve guards, three reliefs, not more than four men being on - guard at one time. - - As our camps were only about two hundred yards apart, there was much - visiting between them. I was struck with the good conduct and - hospitable kindness of these people. A small band of prairie - Chippewa Indians, who accompanied this party, visited our camp - during the evening, and entertained us with one of their national - dances. - - I was much pleased with Governor Wilkie, who is the head of the - expedition. He is a man about sixty years of age, of fine - appearance and pleasant manners. This party are residents of Pembina - and its vicinity. When at home they are engaged in agriculture, - raising wheat, corn, potatoes, and barley. The land yields about - twenty-five bushels of wheat to the acre, their farms averaging - about fifteen acres each. They are industrious and frugal in their - habits, and are mostly of the Romish persuasion, leading a virtuous - and pious life. They are generally accompanied by their priests, and - attend strictly to their devotions, having exercises every Sabbath, - on which day they neither march nor hunt. - - Their municipal government is of a parochial character, being - divided into five parishes, each one presided over by an officer - called the captain of the parish. On departing for the hunt, they - select a man from the whole number, who is styled governor of the - hunt, who takes charge of the party, regulates its movements, acts - as referee in all cases where any differences arise between the - members in regard to game or other matters, and takes command in - case of difficulty with the Indians. - - In the early part of the year, till the middle of June, these people - work at agriculture, when they set out on their first hunt, leaving - some thirty at the settlements in charge of their farms, houses, - stock, etc. They start out to the southward in search after buffalo, - taking with them their families, carts, and animals. These carts, - when loaded, contain about eight hundred pounds, and are used in - common. There were three hundred and thirty-six men in the present - train, of whom three hundred were hunters. Each hunt, of which there - are two every year, continues about two months, the first starting - in June, the second about the middle of October. Their carts were - already half full, and they expected to return to their homes in the - latter part of August. On their first trip the buffalo are hunted - for the purpose of procuring pemmican, dried meat, tongues, etc.; - the skins, being useless for robes, are dressed for lodge-skins, - moccasins, etc. In October the meat is still better and fatter, and - they procure a like quantity of dried meat, reserving sufficient for - a year's provisions, which is about one half of the whole amount - procured; they dispose of the rest at the trading-posts of the - Hudson Bay Company. The meat which they carry home finds its way, - through the Red River traders of the Fur Company, to Fort Snelling, - where it is exchanged for goods, sugar, coffee, etc., at the rate of - fifteen cents a pound. - - The trade of this country is all in dry-goods, sugar, tea, - ammunition, etc. Notes are also issued by the Hudson Bay Company, - which are currency among them. Several of these, of the denomination - of five shillings, payable at York Factory and bearing the signature - of Sir George Simpson, were offered in change to various members of - the expedition on purchasing articles. The skins collected in the - summer hunt are usually retained by the hunters for their own use, - while the robes collected in the fall hunt are a staple of trade - with the Fur Company, and also with the Hudson Bay Company, which - latter company do a large business in this portion of the country, - supplying the settlers with most of their clothes, groceries, etc. - - The Red River settlements are made up of a population of - half-breeds, traders of the Hudson Bay and Fur Companies, discharged - employees of these companies, and Indians, representatives of every - nation of Europe,--Scotch, Irish, English, Canadians,--and speaking - a jargon made up of these dialects, intermingled with Chippewa and - Sioux, patois French being the prevailing tongue. These settlements, - started some twenty-five years since, now number, in the vicinity of - Pembina Mountain, some four thousand people. The men are generally - much finer looking than the women. On the latter depend all the - drudgery of camp duties, pitching the tents, attending to animals, - cooking, etc. The men dress usually in woolens of various colors. - The coat generally worn, called the Hudson Bay coat, has a capote - attached to it. The belts are finely knit, of differently colored - wool or worsted yarn, and are worn after the manner of sashes. Their - powder-horn and shot-bag, attached to bands finely embroidered with - beads or worked with porcupine quills, are worn across each - shoulder, making an X before and behind. Many also have a - tobacco-pouch strung to their sashes, in which is tobacco mixed with - kinnickinnick (dried bark of the osier willow scraped fine), a - fire-steel, punk, and several flints. Add to these paraphernalia a - gun, and a good idea will be formed of the costume of the Red River - hunter. The women are industrious, dress in gaudy calicoes, are - fond of beads and finery, and are remarkably apt at making - bead-work, moccasins, and sewing. - - We purchased from the train a supply of pemmican, dried meat, sugar, - and other things, some of the men buying moccasins, whips, and other - necessaries. - - I engaged the services of Alexis Le Bombard, who was in company with - this encampment, as guide to the Yellowstone. He came from the - Yellowstone this season, and the impression gathered from my - interview with him, as well as the representations of others, - satisfied me that he will be extremely valuable as a guide. - - July 18. Started a few minutes before seven, still following the - trail of the Red River train. About eight o'clock we crossed a - branch of the Sheyenne, flowing through a deep valley with an - extended plateau, bounded on both sides by the high coteau. This - stream appears to take its rise in a number of small lakes, and the - branch crossed this morning is slightly brackish. Many of the lakes - are very salt. These appear to have no outlet, and their saline - qualities are accounted for by the fact that they are never washed - out, and consequently retain the salt deposits and incrustations. We - often notice in this region lakes lying very close to each other, in - some cases not more than twenty yards apart; one will be so saline - as to be offensive, while the water of the other will be excellent - to the taste. We passed to-day a narrow lake, some three miles in - length, somewhat resembling a canal. It lay at the foot of a high - hill, called the Butte de Morale. Here occurred an engagement - between some half-breeds and Sioux, in which one of the former, by - the name of Morale, was killed; hence its name. The altitude of this - butte, as determined by barometric measurement, is 281.8 feet above - the level of the Sheyenne River. - - Our way was strewn with the carcasses of many buffaloes killed by - the Red River hunting party. At times the air was very much tainted. - One of our men reported having ridden through a section of land, a - quarter of a mile square, on which were strewn the remains of some - three hundred buffaloes. In killing these animals, only the choice - bits and hides are taken, and the remainder is left as a prey to - wolves, or to rot on the ground. - - We had wood to-day, for the first time since leaving Lake Jessie, - our fuel in the mean time consisting of greasewood and buffalo - chips. The sight of a camp-fire of wood is quite a treat to us. Our - camp is beautifully located on a range of hills, nearly surrounded - with salt lakes, called the White Wood Lakes. An excellent spring - near by furnishes us an abundant supply of cold, fresh water. The - odometer line measured to-day was twenty and a half miles. That - pursued by the train was probably two miles longer. - - July 19. Our course lay over a level country. After proceeding ten - miles we crossed a branch of the Sheyenne River, at this time very - shallow, but the high banks on each side, together with the grass - and deposits, gave evidence of its size during the freshets in the - spring. After traveling sixteen and one half miles, we encamped near - a small lake in sight of the Maison du Chien, which by bearings and - calculation Mr. Tinkham estimated to be about twenty-one miles - distant. We passed on the march several salt-marshes abounding with - tadpoles, from which the effluvia was very offensive. In some places - the ground was covered with deposits of salt to the depth of a - quarter of an inch. I am much pleased with our new guide, Le - Bombard, who appears to have a very accurate knowledge of the - country, although his ideas of distance are not found to be very - reliable, which is generally the case with voyageurs. - - July 20. Fitted out Lander's party, consisting of himself, Le - Frambois, Guy, and Rummell, to make a reconnoissance of Butte Maison - du Chien and the Coteau du Missouri, to connect our work with - Lieutenant Grover's survey, and join us on the Mouse River in four - days. We moved off about half past six, and after traveling five - miles reached the first tributary of the Mouse River. The crossing - occupied nearly three hours, the water being shoulder deep; half the - wagon-loads were removed and carried across in the india-rubber - boat. The road was generally very good, passing over a level prairie - intersected with lakes and sloughs. About twelve miles from camp we - struck a beautiful ridge, resembling a railroad embankment, which - lay directly in our compass course; on the top of this the train - moved for some miles. We passed around the first coulee of the Mouse - River, and after a march of some seventeen miles (odometer - measurement, 15.7), encamped on the bank of a small lake. - - July 21. Left camp at six A.M. It commenced raining about nine, and - lasted an hour or more. About eight miles from camp we saw the - tracks of Grover's train in a slough, by which we judged that he had - passed some days previous. Soon after this we crossed one of the - coulees making into Mouse River. These coulees are very severe on - the animals, in some places being very steep. We traveled to-day - sixteen miles. Our camp is located on the top of a ridge, which - descends into a coulee. We are about one hundred and fifty feet - above the valley of Mouse River. There is plenty of timber in the - coulee which we are to cross to-morrow in starting. - - July 22. Left camp about 6.30 o'clock, and found the crossing of the - coulee, about half a mile to our left. On the other side of the - coulee we have a fine level plateau ahead. The grand Coteau du - Missouri was in sight all day. The depth of the first coulee, as - indicated by the barometer, was eighty-two feet below our camp. - About four miles out we crossed another severe coulee one hundred - and eight feet below the level of our camp. The third coulee was a - depression of fifty-four feet, the prairie level being some - forty-two feet lower than the level of our last camp. - - While making our usual midday halt we were overtaken by two hunters - of the Red River train from the vicinity of the Selkirk settlements, - who were encamped some eight miles distant. They invited me to visit - them, which I determined upon doing, and, placing the train in - charge of Dr. Suckley, I gave him directions to move on some eight - miles, find a good camping place, and await my return. - - July 23. During my absence this morning Dr. Suckley sent Le Bombard - and Sergeant Lindner ahead some twelve miles to reconnoitre for a - good road for the train; Messrs. Tinkham and Burr went to the Mouse - River, and Mr. Moffett, accompanied by Broadwell, went to the Grand - Coteau. - - I sent Guy and Rummell ahead to Dr. Suckley's camp to apprise him of - our coming. At about four o'clock, accompanied by Governor de L'Orme - and seven of his principal men, we started towards Dr. Suckley's - camp. The whole force of the survey, headed by Dr. Suckley, - Sergeant Lindner bearing an American flag, met us about a mile out - of camp, and saluted us with a volley from their guns, the mountain - howitzer being fired three times. A large tent was put up for the - accommodation of our guests, and Governor de L'Orme was invited to - share my tent. The guard tent was made use of as a banqueting-room, - and several of the men were detailed to collect buffalo chips. The - cooks of the various messes assisted each other, and the meal was - ready for us about nine o'clock. Tinkham and Burr got in just in - time to partake of it with us, as also did Moffett and Broadwell. - Mr. Moffett reported the height of the bluff or Coteau range as - seven hundred and two feet above the level of Mouse River, and - distant twenty miles from it; the height of the hill seven miles - from the camp of to-day is two hundred and fifty-six feet. - - Seated around the camp-fire, we had a very pleasant conference with - our friends. I was very favorably impressed with Governor de L'Orme, - and with his opinion in regard to their right to hunt on our - territory, they being residents of the country north of our boundary - line. They claim the protection of both governments, and the doubt - as to the position of the boundary line makes them ignorant as to - which one they have the most claim upon. During the hunting season - they carry with them their families and their property, and they - consider that this territory is open to them, that the right to hunt - on it belongs to them, and that their children born during this - transit over our soil possess the heritage of American citizens. - With but little care, our government could obtain the whole of these - people as citizens, thus protecting and building up our frontier, - and having in this vicinity always a controlling check upon the - Indians. Already is the salutary effect of their presence visible in - the entire safety, now, with which single white men and small - parties can go through this country. Their virtuous mode of life, - their industry and frugality, their adaptation to frontier life, all - combine to render them a valuable class of people, and well worthy - the attention of our government. They expressed a desire that I - should represent these things to the government, and I assured them - that I would do so with pleasure. Governor de L'Orme, before - retiring to rest, attended to his devotions, and I have been struck - with his piety and real goodness, manifested in his conduct and - conversation. - - July 24. We took a late breakfast this morning, and after parting - with our guests we got off at nine A.M. We halted for two hours at - noon, during which time the hunters went out and drove a herd of - buffalo towards us, and right on the line killed two fine cows. I - sent Mr. Tinkham and Paul Boulieau out to the Mouse River, which - they followed some distance, as also the River of the Lakes, joining - us at camp at eight P.M. We made fifteen miles and a quarter to-day, - and the grazing is excellent. - - July 25. The express started this morning at six for Fort Union, - which I think cannot be over one hundred and fifty miles distant. It - consists of Mr. Osgood, Boutineau, Henry Boulieau, and Gray. They - are to procure additional wagons or carts at Fort Union, and carry - letters to Lieutenants Grover and Donelson. Messrs. Tinkham, Lander, - and Paul Boulieau went to-day to make an examination of the Mouse - River valley and the River of the Lakes. We had but one coulee to - cross, and that was shallow, and offered no impediment. We made - to-day twenty-one miles, and found fine grass and excellent water at - our camp. - - July 26. We started this morning about six o'clock, and, traveling - eleven and one half miles, we halted on the bank of a lake. A herd - of buffalo approached on the south side of this lake to drink, and - crossed within gunshot on the opposite side. Some of our party fired - at them, and Le Bombard followed, and killed a fine, fat cow. About - seven miles farther on I received a letter from Mr. Osgood by the - hands of an Assiniboine Indian. The express party camped last night - about ten miles ahead of this place at a large encampment of - Assiniboine Indians, numbering some one hundred and fifty lodges and - twelve hundred persons. The Indians built for them a lodge in the - centre of their camp, and treated them with great hospitality. One - of them offered to act as Mr. Osgood's express, and he told them - that on my arrival I would have a talk with them and make them some - presents. By this note I also learned that Lieutenant Grover had - passed some eight miles to the east of our line about four days ago. - - - July 27. Reaching camp a little after noon, fifteen miles from last - night's camp, and about a quarter of a mile from that of the - Assiniboines, numbers of Indians rode out to welcome us. We found - them to be under the command of the chiefs Blue Thunder and Little - Thunder, the latter probably thirty-six years of age. As soon as we - were encamped, they informed me that they had reserved a present of - skins for me, and were making preparations to have a talk. While - dinner was being prepared, many seated themselves in squads around - the tents, smoking with the men. One large pipe served a dozen, and - the custom adopted is to smoke it a little and pass it to their - neighbor, and thus go round. It is the first signal of welcome or - friendship after the hand is offered, and they will have no business - or other transaction previous to it. - - After dinner, accompanied by Dr. Suckley, Messrs. Stanley, Lander, - Tinkham, Everett, Evans, Adams, Menoc, with Paul Boulieau, Le - Bombard, and Le Frambois as interpreters, I went to their camp, - which was irregularly arranged in a sort of corral, consisting of - about one hundred and fifty lodges, averaging ten persons to each - lodge. - - Our approach was hailed by the barking of an immense number of dogs. - These dogs are a prominent feature in every Indian camp, being used - for drawing lodges, provisions, and property from place to - place,--indeed, furnishing the entire transportation of the Indians - in winter. A sledge drawn by four dogs will carry two hundred pounds - over the snow with great ease. They appeared also to be abundantly - supplied with horses, many of which were of good quality. All the - women and children turned out of the lodges as we passed, curious to - see us. Frames of poles stood around, upon which skins and meat were - drying. Yet, in spite of the appearance of plenty, all had a look of - poverty, judging from the meagreness of clothing and the length of - time it appeared to have been worn, while all appeared very filthy - and miserable. - - A very large lodge, about fifty feet in diameter, had been erected - for our reception in the centre of the inclosure, within which we - found seated two circles of chiefs, braves, warriors, and others. At - the back of the lodge was arranged a long seat for us, consisting of - a pile of skins, which were afterwards presented to me. - - There were about eighty persons present, including our own party. - During the preparation for the ceremonial reception, there was a - general smoking among all present, during which an old man, one of - the dignitaries of the tribe, prepared the pipe of reception, only - smoked on great occasions. The stem was decked with ribbons of - various colors, and when it stood obliquely, feathers would drop - down like the wing of a bird. At the lower end of this pipe, where - it enters the bowl, was a duck's head. The pipe-stem was supported - against a small stick stuck in the ground and crotched at the end. - The pipe was turned towards the sun, the invariable practice in such - cases. Some sweet grass, platted, was then set on fire and used in - the manner of incense, both to the bowl and the stem. After lighting - the pipe with the scented grass, it was planted near by in a small - hole and burned. - - During the smoking the bearer of the pipe shook hands with each - member of our party, handing the pipe after this ceremony was over. - Then a bowl of water was handed around by a second individual, who - also shook hands with each one of us before we drank of the contents - of the bowl. Next came the eating of soup, made of buffalo and - typsina, a species of turnip, which was rich and greasy but quite - palatable. Soon after this ceremony, which completed the reception, - an old man advanced to me and shook hands, after which he shook the - hand of each member of our company. His appearance was much in his - favor, carrying himself with great dignity. With considerable - fluency, and at times with many gestures, he addressed me - substantially as follows: - - "My father, you see us now as we are. We are poor. We have but few - blankets and little clothing. The Great Father of Life, who made - us and gave us these lands to live upon, made the buffalo and - other game to afford us subsistence; their meat is our only food; - with their skins we clothe ourselves and build our lodges. They - are our only means of life, food, fuel, and clothing. But I fear - we shall soon be deprived of these; starvation and cold will - destroy us. The buffalo are fast disappearing, and before many - years will be destroyed. As the white man advances, our means of - life will grow less. We will soon have to seek protection in our - poverty from the Great Father, who can so well supply it. - - "My father, we hear that a great road is to be made through our - country. We do not know what this is for, we do not understand it, - but we think it will drive away the buffalo. We like to see our - white brothers; we like to give them the hand of friendship; but - we know that, as they come, our game goes back. What are we to - do?" - - After shaking hands with all of us he sat down, and after a short - interval of silence the chief, through his interpreter, signified a - desire to hear me reply. - - I explained that the road to be made from the Mississippi to the - Pacific would not injure the Indians, nor deprive them of comforts; - that whites would settle along the line, and, though they would - drive off the buffalo, they would also supply other articles in - place of them. They would receive from the President implements of - agriculture, and learn to till the soil, so as to obtain food with - less labor than now. - - I told them that I would go through the lands of the Blackfeet and - other Indians beyond the Yellowstone, carrying the friendly messages - of the Great Father, and insisting on peace among all, to secure the - safety of the whites. My remarks seemed to make a very favorable - impression, and were received with every mark of respect. Their - approbation was shown, as each paragraph was interpreted, by the - ejaculation "How!" a common word, answering every purpose of - salutation, approval, or concurrence. - - The present they gave me consisted of thirty-two dressed skins and - two robes. - - We spent about half an hour in going around among the various - lodges, and then returned to our camp, being followed by the whole - encampment. During the time we were engaged in inspecting their - camp, they became aware of the profession of Dr. Suckley, and there - was scarcely a lodge that did not contain some patient for his - medical attention. The doctor vaccinated some eight or nine, and - through Le Frambois explained its object. It was near dusk when the - party arrived at our camp and were arranged to receive their - presents. They were seated around in the form of three sides of a - square, the open side being opposite the places occupied by our - party, the chief, and higher order of the Indians. At each of the - four corners was posted a brave or chief. These men never receive a - gift, considering it a degradation to receive anything but what - their own prowess acquires for them. Their hearts are so good and - strong that they scorn to take anything, and self-denial and the - power to resist temptation to luxury, or easily acquired property, - is a boast with them. On these men in time of peace, when - difficulties occur among themselves, the tribe relies, and in time - of war they are their leaders to the scene of action. To two old men - of the tribe was assigned the duty of making the distribution, and - the presents were placed in the centre of the area. During the whole - distribution the Indians sat in perfect silence. All seemed - satisfied with the articles they received, and not a grumble escaped - one of them. After this was over they returned to their camp, the - chiefs and braves remaining. At half past eight we had a collation - of coffee and bread in our mess tent, and remained till a late hour, - smoking and conversing. Soon after this our friends left, myself and - the interpreters escorting them outside the sentinels. I was much - pleased with these Indians, and they seemed to be very favorably - inclined towards the whites, and sincere in their professions of - friendship. Nothing to-day of the slightest value has been missed, - as far as I can learn. - - July 28. It was very late this morning before we started, being - occupied in fitting out a party, consisting of Mr. Lander, Dr. - Suckley, Mr. Burr, and Corporal Rummell, with instructions to strike - the Pierced Rock on Mouse River, and make a careful examination for - coal and iron. They were to explore the White Earth River, examine - the Coteau du Missouri, and, reaching the 49th parallel, make a - detour to the northwest, and arrive at the Yellowstone in some three - or four days. - -Four days later, on August 1, after a march of eighty miles along the -Mouse River and the River of the Lakes, they reached Fort Union. As the -broad Missouri and its beautiful bluff banks dotted with timber came -into view, the whole party gave three cheers. Lieutenants Donelson and -Grover, who had already arrived at the fort, and Mr. Denig, the trader -in charge, came out to meet them. The governor mounted his horse, for -the first time since the false alarm about the Sioux, and received them -with a salute of a volley of small-arms, which was answered by thirteen -guns from the fort. News was brought of the death of sapper White, of -Donelson's party, by the accidental discharge of a gun in his own hands. -Camp was soon pitched, and the whole party assembled at the governor's -tent. - - "I congratulated them on the zealous performance of their duty, gave - them a cordial invitation to go on, and whatever their - determination, even should they leave us here, promised them an - honorable discharge. All seemed desirous of going on, and not one - availed himself of the opportunity to leave the expedition. - - "By the great vigilance exercised on the march, the animals had been - constantly improving, gaining flesh and becoming cured of sores, so - that, though we started from the Mississippi with forty disabled - animals, all but one were serviceable on our arrival at Fort Union. - - "The whole distance from St. Paul to Fort Union is by odometer - measurement 715.5 miles, and we had accomplished it in 55 days, and, - excluding halts from time to time, in 48 traveling days. The rate of - traveling was therefore about 15 miles a day, most of the way over a - country almost unknown, without roads, and with such an imperfect - knowledge of the distances to be made between camps as to cramp our - movements much more than if the route had been measured and - itineraries constructed for our use." - -FOOTNOTES: - - [3] Lander, it seems, was an inveterate horse-killer, and almost - always returned from his trips with his animal badly used up. - Buffalo chips are the dried dung frequently used on the plains - as a substitute for fuel where there is no wood. - - - - - CHAPTER XVIII - - FORT UNION TO FORT BENTON - - - "Fort Union is situated on the eastern bank of the Missouri, about - two miles and three quarters above the mouth of the Yellowstone. It - was built by the American Fur Company in 1830, and has from that - time been the principal depot of that company. It is framed of - pickets of hewn timber, about sixteen feet high, and has two - bastions, one at the northwest and one at the southeast corner. The - main or front entrance is on the side opposite the river. The fort - is 250 feet square. The main buildings, comprising the residence of - the superintendent and the store, are on the front or eastern side. - They are two stories high, and built of wood. The shops and - dwellings of the blacksmith, the gunsmith, the carpenter, the - shoemaker, the tailor, and others are of adobe or of wood, and - occupy the other sides. These mechanics are mostly French - half-breeds, and have half-breed or Indian wives and many children. - There is a grassy plain around the fort, extending to the base of - the rising ground, which is a full mile distant on the eastern side. - The Assiniboines, the Gros Ventres, the Crows, and other migratory - bands of Indians trade at this fort, exchanging the skins of the - buffalo, deer, and other animals for such commodities as they - require. Mr. Culbertson, who has occupied the position of chief - agent of the company during the past twenty years, has under his - supervision not only Fort Union, but Forts Pierre and Benton also. - He is a man of great energy, intelligence, and fidelity, and - possesses the entire confidence of the Indians. His wife, a - full-blooded Indian of the Blood band of the Blackfoot tribe, is - also deservedly held in high estimation. Though she appears to have - made little or no progress in our language, she has acquired the - manners and adapted herself to the usages of the white race with - singular facility. Their children have been sent to the States to - be educated in our best schools." - -Fort Union was long since abandoned. - -Agreeably to instructions, Mr. Culbertson, immediately on reaching Fort -Union, dispatched expresses to the chiefs of the Blackfoot nation with -presents of tobacco and goods, and Governor Stevens's message:-- - - "I desire to meet you on the way, and assure you of the fatherly - care and beneficence of the government. I wish to meet the Blackfeet - in a general council at Fort Benton. Do not make war upon your - neighbors. Remain at peace, and the Great Father will see that you - do not lose by it." - -The Blackfeet at this time numbered 12,000, divided into four great -bands,--Blackfeet proper, Bloods, Piegans, and Gros Ventres. Pressing -down from the north over a century before, they drove back the Crows, -Shoshones, and Flatheads, and took possession of all the country about -the headwaters of the Missouri from above the boundary line to the -Yellowstone, and from the Rocky Mountains eastward to Fort Union. True -Ishmaelites, they waged perpetual war upon all other tribes, and -cherished special and inveterate hostility against the whites ever since -one of their number was slain by Captain Lewis, of Lewis and Clark's -expedition, in 1807. They suffered, indeed, two rival trading-posts on -the upper Missouri, three hundred miles above Fort Union, namely, Fort -Benton and Fort Campbell, for it was indispensable for them to exchange -their peltries for arms, ammunition, blankets, and goods; but the -traders never dared admit them within the forts. - -War was their sole business, the only means by which the young braves -acquired influence, gained wealth, and found favor in the eyes of the -maidens. Their war parties invariably started out on foot, each warrior -trailing a long lariat, and bearing a bundle of moccasins with rawhide -soles. It was a point of honor never to return unless mounted, and war -parties were sometimes absent over a year before they succeeded in -capturing their steeds. Penetrating thus on foot from three hundred to a -thousand miles into the country of their foes, they would patiently lurk -in the mountains, or some hidden resort, until an opportunity offered, -when, running off the horses, and perhaps lifting a few scalps, they -would retreat home at full speed, mounted and triumphant. Thus they -raided the Crows and Assiniboines on the east and south, the Shoshones, -Snakes, and Flatheads on the west, and even beset the emigrant trail of -the Platte and South Pass, eight hundred miles distant; and many a -lonely trapper and emigrant had fallen victim to their cunning and -ferocity. Yet the chiefs and elders plainly saw that this incessant -warfare was slowly but surely cutting off their warriors in detail, and -threatened the ultimate extinction of the tribe, and were not unwilling -to relinquish it for a more peaceful mode of life, but ever found it -impossible to restrain the young braves. - -With these powerful and intractable savages Governor Stevens undertook -to make a lasting peace, not only between them and the whites, but also -between them and their hereditary enemies, the other Indian tribes. He -early realized that the establishment of peace and the cessation of -Blackfoot war parties were indispensable to the exploration and -settlement of the country, and the passage of emigrants through it, and -characteristically set to work to effect it, without waiting for orders. -He took every opportunity to meet and confer with the chiefs and parties -of the Blackfeet, urging them to make peace, and proposing a great -council for the next year, at which they and the whites and the other -Indian tribes were to meet together and unite in bonds of lasting -friendship. From Fort Benton the governor reported his views and action -to the government, and in the strongest manner recommended the holding -of the council. He sent Mr. Culbertson expressly to carry his report to -Washington, and impress his policy upon the government. It is remarkable -how Governor Stevens, although eminently loyal and subordinate to -authority, always impressed his own views upon the government, and -caused them to be adopted, instead of waiting for instructions to be -given him. With his sagacious foresight and ardent patriotism, he was -quick to discern needed measures, which always appeared to him as duties -to be undertaken, and moreover he had such courage and force of -character that he never hesitated to take the responsibility of any -action that he deemed necessary for the public welfare. - -Thus far the expedition had met with most gratifying success. Lieutenant -Donelson made a satisfactory examination of the Missouri to a point one -hundred and twenty-five miles above Fort Union, and an extended -reconnoissance of the country north of that point. The main party -surveyed two routes westward from Pike Lake, and ascertained the -topographical features on both flanks for a wide scope, while Lander, -during the stay at Fort Union, examined the Mouse River country -northward to the 49th parallel. Dr. Evans was at work geologizing in the -Bad Lands on the other side of the Missouri. The force was now hardened -to field work and in fine spirits, and the animals were toughened, -thoroughly broken, and in fine condition. - - "From the 2d to the 9th of August we were closely occupied in - preparing for the continuation of the survey. The men were engaged - in making Pembina carts, and additional transportation was purchased - of the fur companies. Our experience thus far had shown how well - adapted ox-trains were to transportation, and accordingly two - additional teams were added at Fort Union. In all these - arrangements both the fur companies zealously coöperated, placing at - my disposal not only all the animals they could spare, but guides, - hunters, and their information in regard to the country. We were - much pleased and benefited by the good offices of the Indian women - at the two posts, the wives of the officers, who fitted us out with - a good assortment of moccasins, gloves, and other guards against the - severity of the weather in the fall and winter. - - "The voyageurs belonging to the fur companies' posts thought it a - good practical joke to spread bugbear stories about the immense - snows to be expected early in the season, and many of the men got to - believe that they would find snow knee-deep before they reached Fort - Benton, and that it would be twenty feet deep in the passes of the - Rocky Mountains in October, and the men became exceedingly alarmed. - Fortunately I had with me some books of travel in that country, - particularly De Smet's 'Oregon Missions,' and had carefully - investigated the climates of the country west of the Rocky - Mountains. Mr. Culbertson and the officers of the companies also - gave me reliable information in reference to the lightness and - lateness of the snow this side of the mountains, and therefore - little difficulty was found in satisfying the men that they had been - trifled with in this matter." - -Advancing the expedition westward again in two parties under Lieutenants -Grover and Donelson on the 9th of August, the governor, to quote from -his final report, - - started on the 10th from Fort Union at about twelve o'clock, - followed by a war party of the Blackfeet, consisting of twenty Blood - Indians and forty Piegan Indians, who arrived at Fort Union on the - 8th on a visit to my party, and with whom I had had the most - friendly interchange of civilities. I desired their company for two - or three days in order to impress them fully with the beneficent - policy of our government towards the Indians, and with the peaceable - character of my own duties and objects, intending then to dispatch - them on their way to their several tribes, and to make generally - known to the Blackfoot nation our objects in passing through their - country. I camped that evening with Lieutenant Grover on the Little - Muddy River, when, towards night, a serious difficulty came near - happening between them and our party. Mr. Culbertson and myself, - however, succeeded in arranging the matter, and we spent a most - interesting evening with the principal men in conversing about the - Blackfeet and the Indian policy of our government. On this occasion - I presented the subject of a general council to be held at Fort - Benton the ensuing year, to make peace between the Blackfoot Indians - and the hunting tribes west of the mountains, and to preserve peace - with the white children of the Great Father. On this as on previous - occasions, Mrs. Culbertson, a native of the Blood tribe of the - Blackfeet, was unwearied and efficient in her good offices. - - The next day we reached the Big Muddy River. The crossing was at a - difficult ford, and we were all highly gratified at the zeal and - efficiency of one of the Blackfeet, who pulled as steadily at the - rope as any man of my party. - - Before leaving the Big Muddy I had a long conversation with the - White Man's Horse, the chief of the war party of Blackfeet. He had - frequently visited the Bitter Root valley, and stolen horses from - the Flatheads. He observed, "I take the first Flathead horse I come - to; it is sure to be a good one." He and one of his men had just - returned from the Flathead country, and they gave a very favorable - description of the route, assuring me, pointing to my wagons and - Pembina carts, that there would be no difficulty in taking them - through the mountains. The country between Fort Union and this point - is broken and rolling, with occasional formations of the _mauvaise - terre_ and outcroppings of sandstone. On the Big Muddy there is - quite a large and open valley of a very good soil and excellent - grass, with a very heavy growth of cottonwood near its junction with - the Missouri. - - On starting from the Big Muddy on the 14th of August, the command - was in most excellent condition and spirits. Two of the mule teams - were strengthened by an additional pair of mules, and the wagons - were somewhat overloaded; for I determined to take nearly all my - provisions along, so there should be no possibility of suffering for - want of food, even though the depot of provisions in the Bitter Root - valley had not been established by Lieutenant Saxton. We made eleven - and a half miles, and encamped at a most beautiful point in the - midst of luxuriant grass. The day was very sultry, some rain fell, - and one ox died from the heat. - - August 15. Excellent road all day. Crossed Poplar River and encamped - on the west side, distance eighteen miles. I now felt the importance - of renovating my health in order to prepare for the mountain work. - It had been my custom thus far to continue at work till midnight, - and to be up with the first in the morning. - - August, 16. The road to-day was over the level river-bottom of the - Missouri. Timber in sight all day, the route running through timber - for about a mile. Reached a camp where there was excellent water, - grass, and abundance of timber at five o'clock, making twenty three - and two thirds miles. I issued this evening an order directing every - person in the expedition, so far as it was consistent with his - duties, to walk a portion of the way each day; for in approaching - the mountains my effort was that the animals should be increasing - rather than diminishing in flesh, and our experience had taught us - that, by care in all these particulars, long marches could be made - and the animals improved each day. - - August 17. Made fifteen miles to-day, and camped on the Missouri at - two o'clock. The road was over the level river-bottom. Much side - work has been done since leaving the Big Muddy by Lieutenant Grover, - Mr. Lander, and Mr. Tinkham, and the meteorological observations - have been as numerous as they were on the route up to Fort Union. We - organized to-day a day guard for the care of the animals, the object - being to keep them in the best grazing without picketing as long as - possible. - - August 18. Passed through to-day villages of prairie dogs. Crossed - the Porcupine River about five miles from camp. Encamped on Milk - River, sixteen miles being the day's march. Here we determined to - remain a day to prepare charcoal for the blacksmith, and to make - observations for the geographical position of its mouth, which is - considered a very important point in the survey. Our camp was - surrounded by a large grove of cottonwood, and near it was a - delightful spring of water. The valley of Milk River is wide and - open, with a heavy growth of cottonwood as far as the eye can reach, - which is also to be found along the adjacent shores of the Missouri. - - At this camp, which I named Camp Atchison, in honor of the acting - Vice-President, I reduced to writing, and issued in an order, the - instructions for the government of the expedition and the - distribution of duties, under which we had been moving by my verbal - instructions from the Big Muddy River. I availed myself of this - opportunity to express my sense of the services of the several - members of my party. On the 19th there was some little alarm in camp - in consequence of false reports about the vicinity of a war party of - Blackfeet. - - We left Camp Atchison on the 20th, and after moving fifteen miles - reached a very pleasant camp, with excellent grass, wood, and water. - In the evening there was a very heavy thunder-storm. My order was - read to the gentlemen of the party this evening, and was the subject - of general congratulation, and not a little mischievous by-play or - joking. - - August 21. This morning was clear, cool, pleasant, and delightful - for moving. Engineer parties, both yesterday and to-day, have been - actively at work getting in the country bordering the route of the - main party. I dispatched a small party across Milk River to Panther - Hill to observe the country. Game was very abundant; plenty of - buffalo, antelope, and beaver. A heavy rain and thunder-storm - occurred about noon. Wild horses were reported as having been seen - to-day by the reconnoitring parties. A fine eagle was shot and - brought in to Dr. Buckley, our naturalist. To my exceeding regret, I - found that there were points arising regarding the relations of army - officers and civilians, and I concluded that the only way to - overcome all difficulty was to pursue a firm, steady course, - according to the terms of my written order. The distance to-day was - seventeen and two thirds miles. - - August 22. We crossed Milk River five miles from camp, and took a - cut off to the south. We made our camp, after moving nineteen and a - half miles, a quarter of a mile from the river, in the vicinity of a - very heavy growth of cottonwood, there being a high bluff between us - and the river. As usual, the evening was spent in considering the - question of the proposed Blackfoot council, and in examining the - work of the parties, and preparing for the work ahead. We passed - through large herds of buffalo to-day. - - August 23. We left camp late in consequence of the oxen straying, - and about a mile from camp crossed Milk River. The order to walk - some miles each day has been carefully observed, and the effect was - to be seen upon our animals. On reaching our camping-ground, we - found a deputation of Gros Ventres, consisting of seven of their - chiefs, five of whom were accompanied by their wives. Among these - was the Eagle Chief and his son, White Eagle, and the Little - Soldier. The wife of the son of Eagle Chief was a very pretty woman. - Her name was the White Antelope. They welcomed us in the most - cordial manner, and were dignified in their deportment, which was - marked by the strictest propriety. We were invited to visit their - camp, about thirty miles farther on. After smoking and talking for - some time, lunch was served up about dusk, consisting of coffee, - rice, etc., after which they made us presents of horses, giving one - to myself and two to Mr. Culbertson, to whom they seemed to be much - attached. There was a large tent put up for their accommodation, and - supper was provided about ten o'clock. - - As my health had now been rapidly improving for some days, I - determined to push ahead as rapidly as possible with two advance - parties in order to examine the approaches to the mountains. - Accordingly I organized two parties, under Lieutenant Grover and Mr. - Lander, for the above purpose. To Mr. Lander I assigned four and to - Lieutenant Grover five members of the party. Each was provided with - reserve horses, and with fifty days' rations of flour, sugar, and - coffee. These arrangements delayed me, so that on the following - morning, - - August 24, I got off somewhat late, and was obliged to go into camp - seven and a half miles this side of the Indian camp. Our Indian - friends were again with us to-night, and we treated them with bread - and coffee. - - I learned to-day that a feud has lately broken out between the Gros - Ventres and the Blackfoot tribes. A Gros Ventre was married to a - Blackfoot woman. Traveling along, he was attacked, killed, and a - fleet horse of his stolen. His wife was with him at the time, and - the assassin proposed that she should marry him, go northward, and - the Gros Ventres would never learn of the death of one of their - tribe. She assented. He gave her the slow animal, upon which he had - ridden himself, mounting the fast horse, which had been taken from - her murdered husband. They soon arrived at water; she went off to - get some, and on her return pressed him to go, as the water was very - good. He did so, leaving his horse with the squaw. After he had gone - some two or three hundred yards she mounted the fast steed, and, - pursuing a contrary direction, joined the tribe of her deceased - husband, and gave such information as would lead to the revenge of - his untimely death. I find these Indians determined to revenge this - outrage, and they are now fitting out war parties for the purpose of - cutting off straggling Blackfeet, and stealing their horses. - - August 25. Took an early breakfast, making to-day twenty-two and a - half miles, when we reached the camp of Gros Ventres on the bank of - Milk River, at half past three o'clock. This camp consisted of three - hundred lodges, at least one thousand horses, and over two thousand - Indians. We were soon waited on by others of the tribe, dressed in - their finest costumes, among whom I would name the Cloudy Robe, who - presented me with a horse; the Eagle, Big Top, the Discoverer or - Ball in the Nose, the Man who goes on Horseback, the White Tail - Deer, the Running Fisher, the Two Elks, the Wolf Talker, the Bear's - Coat, White Bear, the Clay Pipestem Carrier, the Old Horse, the - Sitting Squaw, the Little White Calf. Accompanied by the gentlemen - of the party, I visited their camp and the lodges of the principal - chiefs, at all of which we were treated with the utmost kindness and - hospitality. They first received us in a large lodge prepared for - the occasion, some twenty-five feet in diameter, within which some - sixty were seated. We here smoked, drank, and ate, talked some time, - and then visited the lodges. I was much struck with the prominent - characteristics of this tribe. Polygamy is universal; several of the - chiefs above named having four, five, and even six wives, one of - whom is the especial favorite and mistress of the household. The - husband will appropriate any of them to purposes of prostitution - when he can profit by so doing. They are filthy in the extreme in - their habits, many of the women actually eating the vermin out of - each other's heads, and out of the robes in which they sleep. Being - improvident, it is always feast or famine. Returned to camp about - eight o'clock, and fixed the next day for a council. - - August 26. The Pembina train arrived shortly after breakfast, and - the main train about noon. The necessary preparations were made for - the feast, and about one o'clock the Indians were seated around in - squads of twenty or thirty to the number of two hundred. Before the - feast the Indians seemed to be in high glee, passing the time in - singing their songs, accompanying them with rattles made of the - hoofs of antelopes strung very fancifully upon a piece of wood about - a foot long, with which they marked time. - - Shortly after the feast was over we had a council, at which the - chiefs and many of the principal men were present. Mr. Culbertson - acted as interpreter. When I first commenced talking with them, I - found they were deeply enraged against the Blackfeet for the cause - alluded to in the journal of the 24th; that they were determined to - wage war against that tribe. I determined to put an end to this, and - at once made a proposition to them to settle with that tribe on - their delivery of the offender, or making a suitable reparation. I - then explained the folly of going to war; how much they would suffer - from it and how little was to be gained; that it was the desire of - the Great Father that all his children should be at peace with each - other; that while war parties of both tribes were scouring the - country, the road was dangerous to the whites who should go there; - and it was my duty to demand that they should not so act as to - endanger the life of a single man of my own party, or any white man - who should hereafter travel through this region. - - I then proceeded to explain the objects of the expedition in passing - through their country. I wished to make a treaty of peace between - the Gros Ventres, Blackfeet, Piegans, and Bloods, and between these - and the Indians west of the mountains who resort to the plains of - the Missouri to hunt the buffalo. I then proceeded to explain the - advantages which would arise to the Indians from entering into such - a treaty, and receiving from the government directly what they now - get from other Indians. They would then obtain goods, provisions, - etc., in the way of annuities; could keep their horses, instead of - being obliged to go with their horses and purchase of other Indians - at an increased price, what the liberality and benevolence of the - Great Father, in his fostering care over his children, would at once - freely and abundantly supply them. "Think well of the matter. - Suspend for the present your difficulty with the Blackfoot Indians. - Let some of your chiefs come with me to Fort Benton, and we will try - to settle the difficulty between the tribes. If it cannot be settled - there, let it be referred to a commissioner sent here by the Great - Father, who will settle all your differences at a council of the - tribes to be held next year, where the grievances of both parties - will be fully heard. But I must insist on the safe conduct of every - white man through this country." - - They then held a consultation with their braves and principal men. - In about an hour we met again. They assented to every proposition - made. Some of their chiefs consented to accompany me to Fort Benton, - and the whole tribe announced their willingness to wait until some - time next year, and refer their difficulties to such a council. We - continued the talk for some time, after which the Indians were - invited to come over to the camp of the main party and witness the - firing of the howitzer, which seemed to give them much pleasure. - About five o'clock we made a distribution of the presents and - provisions designed for this tribe, consisting of blankets, shirts, - calico, knives, beads, paint, powder, shot, tobacco, hard bread, - etc. They received them with the greatest satisfaction; no grumbling - or envy was manifested. They continued about our camp, loitering, - smoking, and talking, all the afternoon and evening. - - August 27. Busy this morning in the purchase and exchange of horses - with the Indians. We secured several very good horses in place of - six very indifferent mules. Several members of the expedition bought - horses for clothing, guns, etc., their private property, thus - relieving for the use of the expedition their present riding - animals. By the distribution of presents and provisions, and - consumption at camp, we lightened our loads some two thousand - pounds, apart from the issue to the detached parties, and have - received twelve serviceable animals in place of unserviceable ones, - besides four new ones purchased by members of the party, two - presented to me, and two purchased by Mr. Culbertson. - - August 28. I made to-day twenty-four and a half miles with the - advance parties. I was very much pleased with the good offices of - the Running Fisher, who brought into camp two of our missing horses. - By my invitation he will accompany us to Fort Benton. - - August 29. The road to-day was not as good as usual: the - river-bottom was much dried up, with deep cracks in the soil, and - the numerous holes made by the prairie dogs were even, at times, a - worse obstacle to our progress. Made our halt about twelve miles - from camp, where we dined. By an accident, the wind being high, the - prairie took fire, which extended over considerable surface. Our - dining-place was on a branch of Milk River, flowing from Cypress - Mountain. Parallel to this, and some three miles farther on, crossed - a second branch, issuing also from the Cypress Mountain. By a bend, - the two branches nearly meet, forming what is called the junction. - - Mr. Culbertson estimates the number of the Gros Ventres at about - three hundred lodges, ten persons to the lodge, of which the - proportion of men to women is one to two, the number of men being - about six hundred. On his arrival in the country twenty-three years - ago, they numbered four hundred lodges. In 1838-39, by a junction of - the Crees and Assiniboines, some sixty lodges were entirely - destroyed at Julius Mountain. A few years subsequently another - attack was made at Cypress Mountain, in which sixty more lodges were - exterminated, three men only escaping on this occasion, one of whom - was the Sitting Squaw, father of the one already mentioned. Soon - after Mr. Culbertson's arrival in the country, he and four or five - other whites, with a party of Blackfoot Indians, were attacked by a - war party of Assiniboines, numbering some seven or eight hundred. - The field was contested all day, night only ending the conflict. In - the morning the Assiniboines did not resume the attack, and - abandoned many of their dead on the field. A considerable number of - the Blackfeet were also killed, but none of the whites. - - August 30. Yesterday we were in sight of the Bear's Paw, quite a - broad and rugged mountain upheaval, stretching from Milk River to - the Missouri. I sent off Lieutenant Grover, Mr. Lander, and Mr. - Stanley, to make an examination of the Bear's Paw, so far as it - could be done by ascending one of its highest peaks, estimated to be - about seventeen or eighteen miles distant. I moved on myself with - the remainder of the party, having determined that I would no longer - ride in the ambulance, but would make the effort to push forward - either on horseback or on foot. After moving seven or eight miles I - suffered so exceedingly from riding that I walked some five or six - miles with great difficulty, until, coming to a good camp on our - second crossing of Milk River, and the point where we were to leave - it on our way to Fort Benton, I halted the party and rested for two - hours. This gave me strength enough to mount my horse and ride to - camp, eighteen miles farther on, on a tributary of the Box Elder - Creek. We crossed several branches of this creek, which is a - tributary of Milk River, that has its source very near the Missouri - and is on our general line to Fort Benton. The ascent is very - gradual from Milk River to our camp; the soil generally is very - good. The view this afternoon was delightful. Bear's Paw itself - presents a rugged, grotesque appearance, and it requires no great - stretch of the imagination to see in it the paw of a grizzly bear, - ready to spring upon the plain. - - The Three Buttes, or the Sweet Grass Hills, some sixty miles to the - northward of us, are a favorite resort of the Blackfeet, who say - that Providence created these hills for the tribe to ascend and look - out for buffalo. Southward we have a view of mountains on the other - side of the Missouri. Our distance to-day was twenty-nine and a half - miles. - - August 31. We made an early start this morning, and in twelve miles - came to the upper waters of the Box Elder Creek, which is a clear, - limpid stream, affording an unfailing supply of water. We then - pushed on five miles over a fine rolling prairie to a coulee in the - hills, where there was a spring, and here we halted to dine. This - spring is a great resort for buffalo. Considerable water flows from - it, but the ordure of the buffalo was in such great quantities about - it that it infected the water, and moreover they had trampled all - the ground, and had stirred up the water of the spring with their - feet. We however thought it would be well enough for us to make - coffee, and we managed to get up a very respectable meal. After - stopping three hours, we continued on over a very good road. There - was a shower of rain and hail about four P.M. At five the Missouri - was in sight, the Belt Mountains looming up beyond it at a distance - of not less than fifty miles. After a march of thirty-three miles - from our morning camp, we came to a place called the Springs; here - the water was dried up, and there was no wood, but excellent grass. - We pitched our camp in a coulee surrounded by high hills, and went - to work to dig wells for water, in hopes to procure some for our - animals. We succeeded in getting only a small quantity for each. - There was a very high wind and a heavy thunder-shower until near - midnight. Our Indian friends assisted us very much in the night in - looking out for our animals. Grover, Stanley, and Lander have not - come in, which gives me a good deal of apprehension. The Running - Fisher told me a story to-day illustrating one of the phases of - Indian life. The Bear's Paw, as one would infer from its wild and - stern appearance, has been a scene of Indian fight and massacre. - Seven years ago a fight occurred in the Bear's Paw between their - tribe, allied with the Blackfeet, and the Crows, in which he killed - one of the latter. The Crows occupied an impregnable post, from - whence they could shoot down all who approached within twenty paces. - A Blackfoot was shot in the head through a fissure in the rocks. The - Gros Ventres then determined to surround and starve them out; at - night the Crows got off with the loss of one man, killed by Running - Fisher. - - September 1. This morning we made an early start, and, crossing over - a high, rolling prairie, in eleven miles and three quarters came to - the Marias River. The descent to this river on the trail is somewhat - steep, the prairie plateau being over two hundred feet above the - river-bottom. The river itself here presents a beautiful view. It is - a clear, limpid stream, flowing over a pebbly and sandy bed, the - bottoms lined with cottonwood of heavy growth, with thickets of the - service and other berries. The Belt Mountains are very distinctly - visible in the distance, as is also Citadel Hill, called so because - its base rests upon the Missouri, and it rises perpendicularly like - a bastion some two hundred feet high. Near by is Square Hill, so - called from its supposed resemblance to that geometrical figure. - - At our noon halt, or near by, was the scene of a sanguinary conflict - between the Gros Ventres and the Crows in 1849, in which the latter - were all killed. Several of those traveling in our company figured - in the action. A party of Crows to the number of twenty-two were - concealed in the hollow just in advance of where we dined, for the - purpose of stealing horses from the Gros Ventres' camp, consisting - of two hundred lodges. Being discovered, the Gros Ventres surrounded - them, and threw up dust in the air, which was carried by a strong - wind in the faces of the Crows, blinding them, when the Gros Ventres - rushed in upon them, and killed the whole number without losing a - man. None were left to carry home the news. - - We were off about noon; passed over the prairie, and descended in - the valley of the Teton, where we met Mr. Clarke, in charge of Fort - Benton, who came out to meet us. We arrived at Fort Benton at 3.30 - o'clock, where we were received with a salute of fifteen guns. - - Fort Benton stands on the eastern bank of the Missouri, near the - Great Bend, and three hundred and seventy-seven miles by the trail - taken by me above Fort Union. The river is here perfectly - transparent at most seasons of the year. The Teton River empties - into the Missouri six miles below Fort Benton, the Marias twelve - miles below, and the Milk two hundred miles below. The falls of the - Missouri are seventy miles above this fort. The muddy character of - the Missouri has its commencement at the mouth of Milk River, which - takes its name from the whitish muddiness of its waters. The ascent - from the wide, grassy plain in which the fort is located to the high - table-land is somewhat abrupt, the only passage on a level with the - plain being close to the river on the south and very narrow. Fort - Benton is smaller than Fort Union. Its front is made of wood, and - the other sides of adobe, or unburned brick. It usually contains - about a dozen men, and the families of several of them. The - Blackfoot Indians are the principal traders here. It is the custom - of the several bands of this tribe to locate in sheltered and - otherwise eligible places in the vicinity of wood, water, and grass - in the early winter, where they remain as inert as possible until - the melting of the snow. At such times the half-breeds of the fort - visit them with goods upon horses and mules, and exchange their - merchandise for the skins and furs captured by the Indians. - - Fort Campbell is situated on the same plateau with Fort Benton, - about half a mile above it, and is built in very much the same way - as the latter place. - - I was agreeably relieved by the missing gentlemen coming into the - fort September 3. They were in fine spirits, although they had eaten - but little food since they left me on Milk River, had traveled a - very long distance, partly on foot, and had been a good deal annoyed - at the loss of so much time. - - - - - CHAPTER XIX - - WIDESPREAD EXPLORING PARTIES - - -For several days Governor Stevens was busily engaged in examining -voyageurs and Indians in regard to the mountain passes and the general -character of the country. Additional horses were procured, and -arrangements made for sending out parties to explore in advance and both -north and south of the route. Lieutenant Donelson with the main train -reached the fort on the 6th. Dr. Evans arrived on the 5th, after an -extended trip through the Bad Lands, where he made a large collection of -geological specimens. The same day Lieutenant Grover was sent forward -with a small party to the Bitter Root valley, crossing the main divide -of the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of ascertaining if Lieutenant -Saxton had established his depot of provisions at that point. Thence he -was directed to forward an express to Captain McClellan and return to -Fort Benton. - -Lieutenant John Mullan, with a party of six men, was sent southward to -the Muscle Shell River, not only to examine the country, but also to -convey to a band of Flathead Indians supposed to be in that region "a -message of peace and goodwill, to express my desire to make a permanent -peace between them and the Blackfeet, and to build up anew their -beautiful St. Mary's village." Thence he was to cross the mountains by a -more southerly pass and rejoin the main party in the Bitter Root valley. - -The governor decided to send Lieutenant Donelson ahead with a party of -twenty-five men to examine the approaches to Cadotte's Pass, the main -train to follow more slowly in charge of Mr. Osgood, and to dispatch -Lander to examine a pass at the head of the Marias River, considerably -north of Cadotte's. "I gave Mr. Lander," says the governor, "authority, -with certain exceptions, to select his animals from my whole train, -deeming it important that he should be exceedingly well fitted out, as -he would probably have a long distance to make before he joined the main -party in the valley of Clark's Fork." The governor was exceedingly -desirous of taking his wagons across the mountains as the most striking -demonstration of the practicability of the passes. - -The following from a letter of George W. Stevens, of September 10, shows -the high spirits and fine condition of the party:-- - - "We have reached this point with our full number of scalp-locks, and - now are preparing to cross the mountains. Up to this point we have - proceeded with wonderful success, and have done what no American - expedition has done before us. We have not felt the slightest - hardship, but the journey of over one thousand miles has been made - with as much ease and comfort as we could possibly have experienced - in traveling at home fully equipped. Our train, of forty wagons and - carts, over two hundred animals, and more than one hundred men, has - safely arrived. Not a man has died (except one who accidentally shot - himself), nor has there been a single case of serious illness. Not - more than a dozen or fifteen animals have been lost, and as a - general thing they are now in as good condition as when we left the - Mississippi. We are now eighty miles from the Rocky Mountains. On - Monday we leave with a train of twelve wagons, with which we hope to - make a comfortable crossing of the mountains in twenty days. - Yesterday the fort was the scene of the greatest confusion, growing - out of the preparations making to fit out four 'war parties,' as we - term them. The first, under Mr. Lander, explores the Marias Pass, - the most northern and nearly in the latitude of the boundary line. - The second, under Lieutenant Mullan, goes to the Muscle Shell. The - third war party is under the direction of Lieutenant Donelson, and - is to survey the approaches to Cadotte's Pass, the one which will be - taken by the main train. A fourth war party is the major's own to a - camp of Piegan Indians. Lieutenant Grover is already in the - mountains. The major's health is excellent, and though the labor is - enormous, he is the only man who could have carried the expedition - through in so glorious a manner. If he succeeds in getting the - wagons through, he will have opened a good emigrant road from the - Mississippi to the Pacific, and you may be sure the attempt will be - most vigorously made. If fortune continues with us, within two - months we shall reach Puget Sound, that looked-for garden-spot. We - have met the Assiniboine and Gros Ventre bands of Indians, and by - both were hospitably received. Upon the Sheyenne River we first came - upon buffalo, and from that point until a week's journey back we - have met them in the greatest abundance. Buffalo meat has, - therefore, been our principal article of food, and we ask nothing - better." - -A very serious difficulty of another kind now confronted Governor -Stevens. He found that the funds allotted to his exploration would not -suffice to carry on the work so far and so thoroughly as he deemed -necessary, and he was forced to the alternative of cutting it short or -incurring a deficiency. He decided to continue the work, notwithstanding -the great pecuniary risk to himself, and the risk, too, of incurring the -serious displeasure of the government:-- - - "I very frankly and explicitly stated that to continue the survey, - and to carry out the instructions with regard to the work to be - accomplished, it was absolutely necessary to incur a deficiency: - believing that, if the facts as they existed were known to Congress - and the department, their instructions would be for me to continue - the exploration, I determined to incur the deficiency and make the - survey. My instructions required me to examine into the question of - the snows on the route, into the freshets of the streams, and the - period of time they were locked up by the ice, to do which it was - indispensable that there should be winter posts established at Fort - Benton, and in the Bitter Root valley; and it was desirable, in - connection with these posts, to have such arrangements made, and - such facilities afforded, as would enable the gentlemen in charge of - them to continue the explorations of the passes and the adjacent - country." - -In a letter to Professor Bache the governor gives the reasons for his -incurring the deficiency, which were, briefly stated, the delay in the -start, owing to the young and unbroken animals furnished by the -quartermaster's department, notwithstanding that the governor had sent -an agent especially to St. Louis to insure the securing of seasoned and -broken animals, and to the unusually late and rainy season; the distance -across the continent, which turned out to be greater than the best -estimates previously obtainable; the fact that in consequence of the -great number of Indians on the route, and the warlike and treacherous -character of some of them, particularly the Sioux and Blackfeet, it was -necessary to make the expedition strong, especially in guides, -interpreters, and hunters; and that to carry out the instructions and -objects of the exploration it was indispensable to make extended -examinations, and to leave parties to continue the work throughout the -winter, in order to determine the questions of snow and climate. - -It is perfectly apparent that the $40,000 allotted to the Northern -route, even though eked out by the details and supplies furnished by the -War Department, were altogether inadequate to the task intrusted to -Governor Stevens. His management was marked by strict economy and good -judgment; he was simply not given sufficient funds for the work. And it -is most creditable alike to his judgment and moral courage that he -shouldered the responsibility of the deficiency, and made his complete -and exhaustive exploration. - -Having completed all these arrangements, made his reports to the War and -Indian departments, and started off the several detached parties, the -governor decided to visit personally the main camp of the Blackfeet, -near the Cypress Mountain, about one hundred miles north of Fort Benton, -and just above the 49th parallel, in order to confer with their chiefs -in regard to the contemplated council at Fort Benton next year, and -secure guides for the survey of the Marias Pass. He desired, also, -personally to examine the approaches to the several passes of the -mountains from the boundary southward, expecting to overtake the main -party before it reached the Bitter Root valley. Says he in the final -report:-- - - I gave my instructions to Lieutenant Donelson on the 9th instant, - inspected the train, found everything in good order, the men - cheerful, satisfied, and confident as to going on, and the means of - transportation ample, and set off towards night, having been - preceded a few hours by Mr. Lander, on the way to Cypress Mountain. - I encamped that night on the Teton, fourteen miles from Fort Benton. - Besides the party of Mr. Lander, I was accompanied by Mr. - Culbertson, special agent; Mr. Stanley, artist; Augustus Hammell, - interpreter; and three voyageurs. - - September 10. We had been joined last evening by a considerable - party of the Blackfeet, who accompanied us to-day, the principal men - being the Little Dog, the Three Bears, and the Wolf that Climbs. - Started before seven, and after traveling three hours reached a fine - spring, with excellent grass, at a celebrated landmark known by the - name of the Rotten Belly Rocks. It is a formation of sandstone, and - has the characteristic of _Les Mauvaises Terres_. Columns with - capitals, resemblances to the human figure, etc., etc., abound. - Beneath, in the coulee, passes the broad Indian trail leading to the - Piegan camp. Here was killed Rotten Belly, the Crow chief, in an - encounter between one hundred of his braves and eleven well-armed - Gros Ventres of the prairie. This celebrated chief, urged on by his - people, had previously beleaguered Fort McKenzie. He captured all - the animals of the fort,--thirty-five horses. The place was in - charge of Mr. Culbertson, and there were but nineteen men to defend - it. For a month this little force baffled all the attempts of the - Crows to get possession of the fort. Being, however, in a starving - condition, and it being apparent that it could not hold out much - longer, resort was had to stratagem. All the squaws, twenty-nine in - number, were dressed in men's clothes, and with arms in their hands - were distributed around the fort in sight of the Crows, who, thus - deceived in reference to the force defending the place, became - disheartened, drew off, and separated. Rotten Belly, with a portion, - mortified at his failure, declared that he would go north and seek - death in battle. On reaching the rocks, and seeing the Gros Ventres, - he said: "Here I will die to-day; you have brought me to this!" And, - rushing upon his enemies, he killed two, and then received his death - wound. Before his death he advised his people to be the friends of - the whites, saying it was their only chance to escape defeat and - utter ruin. - - Kept on through the afternoon, passing over a rolling country, and - reached the Marias about half past four o'clock, where we camped. - This stream at our crossing was about fifty yards wide, one foot - deep, and of somewhat rapid current, and the river valley was about - a mile wide. There was plenty of cottonwood, and we had a most - excellent camp. Spent the evening in conversing with the Indians who - accompanied us. - - September 11. We were off about seven o'clock, and after traveling - until near noon halted at a spring, where we procured a small supply - of water. Continuing on without unsaddling, in less than an hour I - was overtaken by Baptiste Champagne with an express from Lieutenant - Donelson, inclosing a brief report from Lieutenant Grover, to the - effect that he met Lieutenant Saxton near the dividing ridge, and - that they were returning together to Fort Benton. Lieutenant Grover - intimated in his brief letter that Lieutenant Saxton reported the - route could not be traversed by wagons. This changed the aspect of - affairs, and I determined to send Mr. Stanley to the Piegan camp - with the interpreter Hammell, and to return immediately with Mr. - Culbertson to Fort Benton. I determined, also, to defer the - examination of the Marias Pass to another season. There was not that - harmony in Mr. Lander's party which I deemed indispensable to - making the examination which I had intrusted to him. Accordingly I - ordered him to return with me. Stanley continued on to the Piegan - camp, and I started back on my way to Fort Benton. It made a long - march for us, for to get a good camp it was necessary to reach the - Marias. Our Indian guide made his way pretty directly to the camp: - one hour and a half we traveled in the dark. The descent to the - river was steep and difficult. We succeeded in getting into a good - camp about eight o'clock. Before starting on my return, I dispatched - an express to Lieutenant Donelson to push on with his advanced - party, but to keep the main train till my arrival. - - September 12. Started early, and, pushing rapidly, reached the fort - by three o'clock. - - Lieutenants Saxton and Grover also reached Fort Benton the same day. - The former successfully led the western subsidiary party by way of - Pend Oreille Lake to the Bitter Root valley, from which point - Lieutenant R. Macfeely, with twenty-six men and sixty animals, no - longer needed, returned to the Dalles, crossing the Bitter Roots by - the southern Nez Perces trail, a more direct but vastly more - difficult route than that of the lake. Lieutenant Richard Arnold, - with his brother, Mr. Daniel Lyman Arnold, and four men, remained - with the supplies at Fort Owen in the valley; while Lieutenant - Saxton, with seventeen men, pushed on across the mountains, and was - met by Lieutenant Grover at the summit on September 8; and, as the - governor remarks, "He felt rejoiced that the plan of our operations - had been successful and the object of the expedition accomplished, - as a party from the Atlantic and one from the Pacific, each in - search of the other, had met by appointment, after traversing - thousands of miles of unknown country, at the foot of the dividing - ridge between the oceans." - -The same evening Mr. Tinkham arrived, after an extensive and successful -trip of exploration up the Milk River to the Three Buttes, across -country to Marias River, and thence to Fort Benton. - -In consequence of Lieutenant Saxton's positive representation that it -was impracticable to take the wagons across the mountains, Governor -Stevens reluctantly decided to leave them at Fort Benton, a decision he -afterwards regretted, for after traversing the route he was satisfied -that he could have taken them at least across the main range to the -Bitter Root valley without difficulty. The whole train was now outfitted -with pack animals, and was pushed forward on the 16th under Lieutenant -Donelson. Lieutenant Saxton, with all but three of the dragoon -detachment and some discharged men, and accompanied by Mr. Culbertson, -making a party of twenty-eight all told, was sent down the Missouri by -keelboat with instructions to examine the river, especially as to the -navigability for steamboats of its upper waters, disband his party at -Fort Leavenworth or St. Louis, thence proceed to Washington, and make a -full report, in which he was to urge the necessity of holding the -proposed Blackfoot council, and of continuing the surveys of the -mountain section of the route. The governor also instructed him to -advise with Professor Bache in relation to the continuation of the -survey, and to providing for the deficiency, necessarily incurred, in -the next deficiency bill; giving him letters to the professor, and to -Judge Stephen A. Douglas, Hannibal Hamlin, Dr. Gwin, H.M. Rice, then -delegate from Minnesota, and other prominent senators and members of -Congress. Mr. Culbertson carried the governor's reports to the Indian -Department, and was charged also to urge upon that department the -importance of the council. - -Mr. Doty, with three men, was stationed at Fort Benton for the winter to -make meteorological observations, and such examinations of the country -as he could, and more especially to collect information about, and take -a census of, the Blackfeet, and improve every opportunity to impress -upon them the benefits of the proposed council and peace with the -western Indians. As already stated, Lieutenant Grover was directed to -examine the Missouri for two hundred and fifty miles below the fort, -and the country between it and Milk River, and afterwards to cross the -mountains in midwinter with dog-sledges, and study the depth of snow and -winter climate. - -Lander, with a detached party, was directed to examine along the base of -the mountains from the Marias Pass to Cadotte's Pass. As already stated, -the governor had countermanded the survey of the former by Lander in -consequence of the lack of harmony in that engineer's party. After -leaving Fort Union, Lander developed a fractious, almost insubordinate -disposition. He chafed at the presence and authority of the army -officers. At Fort Benton Governor Stevens had to curb his insubordinate -spirit with some severity, and even told him that he would shoot him -down like a dog if he disobeyed his orders. Lander, realizing that -Governor Stevens would enforce discipline at whatever cost, yielded, -professing his readiness to obey instructions, but thereafter he did so -according to the letter, not the spirit. Yet the governor, both before -and after this occurrence, gave him the best opportunities for -distinction, intrusting to him the most important side explorations, and -in the reports gave him full and generous commendation for all he -accomplished, passing lightly over his shortcomings. A bold, energetic, -high-strung man, Lander could ill brook any authority. He afterwards -conducted an independent government survey with credit, and but for his -early death would undoubtedly have achieved distinction as a soldier. -This appears to have been the only instance of lack of due -subordination, or harmony, shown during the whole expedition, and -certainly some of the governor's orders had been rigorous enough to -cause restiveness, as, for instance, requiring the scientific gentlemen -to break their own mules, to stand guard, and to walk a part of each -day's march. Remarks the governor:-- - - - "I was exceedingly gratified at this time by the spirit of the men. - Several men, who I was afraid had not strength to make the trip, and - whom I had ordered to accompany Lieutenant Saxton down the Missouri, - were so anxious to go on that they brought me a certificate from the - surgeon, Dr. Suckley, stating that in his opinion they were strong - enough for the journey, and accordingly I allowed them to go on. We - had now been together some three months, and there was great - confidence between the several members of the exploration." - -On the 20th Mr. Stanley returned from his trip to the Blackfoot camp, -having traveled on horseback three hundred and twenty miles in eleven -days. A thousand Indians accompanied him back as far as Milk River, -where the main body remained to hunt, while thirty of their chiefs, with -their families, came with him to Fort Benton to hold council with the -great white chief, who remained for that purpose. - - "On the 21st we held our talk with the Blackfeet. The chiefs and - warriors were all richly caparisoned. Their dresses of softly - prepared skins of deer, elk, or antelope were elegantly ornamented - with bead-work. These are made by their women, and some must have - occupied many months in making. The other articles of their costume - were leggings made of buffalo skins, and moccasins, also - embroidered, and a breech-cloth of blue cloth. Their arms were the - Northwest guns, and bows and arrows. On all solemn occasions, when I - met the Indians on my route, they were arrayed with the utmost care. - My duties in the field did not allow the same attention on my part, - and the Indians sometimes complained of this, saying, 'We dress up - to receive you, and why do you not wear the dress of a chief?' - - "The governor addressed them in the same strain as the Gros Ventres: - 'Your Great Father has sent me to bear a message to you and all his - other children. It is that he wishes you to live at peace with each - other and the whites. He desires that you should be under his - protection, and partake equally with the Crows and Assiniboines of - his bounty. Live in peace with all the neighboring tribes, protect - all the whites passing through your country, and the Great Father - will be your fast friend.'" - -Low Horn, the principal Piegan chief, replied favorably in behalf of the -Indians, but spoke of the difficulty of restraining their young men, who -were wild, and ambitious in their turn to be braves and chiefs. They -wanted by some act to win the favor of their young women, and bring -scalps and horses to show their prowess. To this the governor -rejoined:-- - - "'Why is it that you have two or three women to one man? Is it not - because your young men go out on war parties, and thus the flower of - your tribe is cut down? And you will go on diminishing every year - until your tribes are extinct. Is it not better that your young men - should have wives and children, and that your numbers should - increase? Won't your women prefer husbands to scalps and horses? The - Gros Ventres desire to meet you in council, and have the - difficulties between you arranged. Will you meet them in council?' - - "While in the council, Low Horn, the principal chief and speaker, - made all his replies without rising from his seat, and in a quiet, - conversational tone. After the council he assembled his braves, and - resumed the lofty bearing of a chief. He addressed them with great - fervor and eloquence, commanded them henceforth to cease sending out - war parties, and threatened them with severe punishment if they - disobeyed. It will not be uninteresting here to state that Low Horn, - the quiet spokesman of the council and the trumpet-toned chief in - the presence of his men, crossed the Missouri in 1855 with his whole - band, moved up the Judith, and camped on the Muscle Shell,--the - first man who extended the hand of welcome and friendship to the - western Indians as they crossed the mountains on their way to the - council, showing most conclusively that faith can be put in Indians; - for it must be remembered that two years intervened between my - conference with the Indians at Fort Benton in 1853 and their - reassembling in 1855 at the council appointed at that time." - -[Illustration: LOW HORN - _Piegan Chief_] - - - - - CHAPTER XX - - EXPLORING THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS - - - September 22. This morning we bade adieu to Fort Benton, and - separated from the portions of the expedition who were assigned to - duty east of the mountains. Before sunrise we saw Lieutenant Saxton - off in his keelboat, drawing eighteen inches of water, accompanied - by Mr. Culbertson, who was directed by me to report to the - department at Washington, and to urge the importance of the - Blackfoot council. Lieutenant Grover, on a smaller craft, commenced - his minute examination of the Missouri. Mr. Doty, who had won very - much upon me by his intelligence, his fidelity, his promptitude, and - energy of character, parted from me with feelings of hope and pride - at the idea that now a field was opening to him where he could be - useful to his country, and make a reputation for himself. - - In order to make a long march this day, the evening before I - dispatched my train to a point well up on the Teton, some twelve - miles from Fort Benton; and there Mr. Osgood and Mr. Stanley, who - had remained behind with me at Fort Benton, and myself, breakfasted - with the rest of our party. Dr. Suckley and Messrs. Evans and - Kendall, who had assisted me in my correspondence, were the - additional members of my party. - - The whole party moved off at nine o'clock, continuing for some - distance up the valley of the Teton, when we ascended a hill to the - prairie, and in twenty-one miles reached a coulee, where there were - springs of water sufficient for our animals. Large bands of - antelopes were seen on the road. We struck the Prairie Lake at five - P.M. Our guide, the voyageur Baptiste Champagne, took us to the - nearest point of Sun River, hoping to get in before dark, but we did - not reach camp till some time after. The view at almost any point of - the plateau between the Teton and Sun rivers is exceedingly - picturesque and suggestive. The various minor upheavals and swales - of ground, which here and there dot the surface of the country, - have connected with them some story of Indian war, wrong, or - suffering. This whole country was once occupied by the Snakes, and - in later times by some of the tribes of the Flathead nation. It - belongs now to the Blackfeet by conquest. - - September 23. Moved up the valley of the Sun River, having made an - early start this morning. The Sun has a wide, open valley, grazing - exceedingly good and soil excellent. We continued up in the - direction of the pass between the Crown Butte and the Rattlers, - prominent landmarks west of the river, and visible at a great - distance. This is a favorite resort of deer, antelope, and bighorn. - They were present to-day in very large numbers. Continuing on, we - came in view of the Bird Tail Rock, and immediately to the west, in - a line near it, is another landmark, known as the Piegan's Tear. - After making forty miles we found a camp a little off our route, in - a most delightful valley, a spring of water gushing out near by, and - the remains of an old camp of the Blackfeet at hand, furnishing us - with fuel already prepared to our hands. - - September 24. Started as usual very early this morning, and in four - miles came to Beaver Creek, a very beautiful stream of water. The - stream is now full of beaver, and is much obstructed by their dams. - The country is somewhat more broken to-day than it was yesterday; - timber comes in view on the tops of the mountains, and the scenery - becomes more grand with each mile as we proceed. Three miles beyond - Beaver Creek, a high peak, called the Goose's Neck, comes in view to - the south of us; at the southern foot of which equally as good a - road is found, though some two days longer, as the one now being - traveled by us. It is a branch of the present trail, and is usually - pursued by the Flatheads on their way to buffalo. That is called the - Flathead and our own the Blackfoot trail. - - We now crossed several mountain streams in the course of a few - miles, and in sixteen miles we struck the Dearborn River. At noon we - moved forward to the dividing ridge, which was reached at four - o'clock. To this point our road from near the Dearborn lay over - sideling hills and through timber. As we ascended the divide, a - severe pelting hail and rain storm, accompanied with high wind, - thunder, and lightning, suddenly came upon us, and did not abate - until we had reached the summit. The wind blew very violently, and - the mist resulting from the storm prevented our getting a very clear - view of the country before us. It was with great gratification that - we now left the plains of the Missouri to enter upon the country - watered by the Columbia; and it was the more especially gratifying - to me as, looking to my future duties in the Territory, I felt that - I could welcome to my future home and the scene of my future labors - the gentlemen of the party, which I did very cordially and heartily. - The scenery throughout the day's march, up to the divide, has been - picturesque in the extreme; and the latter portion of it, from the - entrance proper to the pass, our road passed between hills on every - side covered with timber, on the sides of which we were constantly - traveling; while many feet below are to be seen the small upper - tributaries of the Missouri, flowing from their source in a valley - that is very wide for so small a channel, and lined with verdure and - the foliage in yellow leaf. All this made a combination full of - interest to the eye of one who could appreciate the beauties of - nature. - - The ascent from the eastern base by the Indian trail is somewhat - steep, though in 1855 I gained the summit by a large, wide, open - ravine north of the Indian trail by a very gradual ascent, and - without much increase of distance; I was a good deal surprised to - find how small an obstacle this divide was to the movement of a - wagon-train. Had we gone on with our wagons, there would not have - been the slightest interruption, up to the entrance of the pass, to - making the usual journeys each day. - - We were twenty minutes simply descending on the western side, which - was somewhat more steep than the eastern. Continuing on, we followed - the valley of the Blackfoot River some ten miles, and camped in good - grass, with excellent water and abundance of wood. Shortly after - getting into camp it commenced raining, and continued steadily all - night, the weather being raw and cold. - -Immediately on crossing the divide, on the summit of the Rocky -Mountains, Governor Stevens issued his proclamation, declaring the civil -territorial government extended and inaugurated over the new Territory -of Washington. And then, as related in the narrative, he heartily -welcomed the members of the party to his new home. - -It was on the summit of Cadotte's Pass that this dramatic and -interesting scene occurred. As originally outlined, the main divide of -the Rocky Mountains formed the eastern boundary of Washington, but -subsequently the mountain section was joined to Idaho and Montana. - - September 25. Raining hard this morning. The animals having strayed - some distance, we were detained until eight A.M. The first fourteen - miles was through an open, wide, and beautiful prairie, after which - much of our way was through wood, where fallen timber offered - serious impediment to our rapid progress. At one o'clock Stanley and - myself, having gone rapidly ahead, had a big fire built to receive - our party as they came up. Here we lunched. By three o'clock the - clouds were breaking away, and the rain had ceased. Crossed several - hills to-day, traveling on the sides of some of them. Just before we - came out on the prairie on which we found Lieutenant Donelson and - the main train encamped, we were three hundred feet above the level - of the river. On the sides of the hill below us was growing the - mountain pine; in the valley beneath, right at the base of this - hill, was the clear, rapid stream; beyond was the foliage of the - trees growing in the bottom. The tops looked like a rich, green - carpet; further on were wide prairies, all bounded by a high ridge - of beautiful hills, altogether forming a scene of surpassing beauty. - At five P.M. we reached Lieutenant Donelson's camp, and found we had - traveled one hundred and forty-four miles since leaving Fort Benton. - - September 26. The gentlemen not required by my rapid trip to the - westward, namely, Dr. Suckley, Mr. Evans, and Mr. Kendall, now - joined the main party, and we pushed on over the Blackfoot prairie - (called, in Lewis and Clark's narrative, the Prairie of the Knobs), - and after a march of thirty-odd miles came to a beautiful camp, near - what is known in the country as the caņon. To show the condition of - the animals of the expedition, I will observe that as I passed by - the mules of the train (for I remained somewhat late in camp this - morning to confer with Lieutenant Donelson, the whole party being - several miles on the march before I started), I observed that their - rate of travel on a fast walk was from four to four and a half miles - per hour, and the advance of the train moved thirty miles that day, - getting into camp early, the animals being apparently not fatigued. - We had hardly made up our camp-fire, when seeing a black bear and - two cubs near by, we felt sure that we should have bear-meat for - supper, but although all the voyageurs were on their track, they - made their escape. - - September 27. We started about seven o'clock, and soon entered the - caņon, not, properly speaking, a caņon, for throughout its extent, - until you reach the debouch of Hell Gate, there is no special - difficulty on the trail, nor would there be excessive work to open a - good wagon-road. But a good many sharp spurs come down close to the - river, throwing the trail well back, or involving a crossing of the - stream to avail one's self of the prairies invariably found opposite - each of these spurs. Much of the country was of a very excellent - description, abounding in timber, well watered, and with soil of an - excellent quality. Emerging from the caņon, we came into a wide, - open valley, commencing half a mile before reaching the mouth of the - Blackfoot, continuing down the valley of the Hell Gate until we - enter the Hell Gate Ronde, a large, extensive tract of many miles in - circuit, and where the Hell Gate joins its waters to the Bitter - Root. Crossing the Bitter Root at a good ford, we continued up its - valley and reached a most excellent camp on the west side of the - Bitter Root, some twenty miles from Fort Owen.[4] - - September 28. Keeping up the west bank of the Bitter Root River we - crossed two streams, one being the Traveler's Rest Creek of Lewis - and Clark, and, passing through a grove of pine timber, in twelve - and one half miles crossed the Bitter Root River, just before - reaching which we met some Indians from Fort Owen. Lieutenant - Arnold, whom we met after crossing the river, on his way to - Victor's camp, returned with us. We reached Fort Owen[5] about noon, - where we met the other gentlemen of Lieutenant Arnold's party. I - found Mr. Lander in camp near Fort Owen, and learned that he arrived - the day before yesterday. - - Fort Owen is situated on the Scattering Creek of Lewis and Clark. It - was a matter of the greatest gratification, with their narrative in - hand, to pass through this valley and realize the fidelity and - graphic character of their descriptions. Lieutenant Arnold had been - jerking beef against our arrival, and making all arrangements to - enable us without delay to push on westward. I examined very - carefully into the condition of the train left by Lieutenant Saxton, - and of the provisions brought to this point, and had every reason to - congratulate myself for having assigned to him this undertaking. We - found there nearly two thousand rations, but the animals were very - few of them serviceable, yet from their appearance it was obvious - that none of them would continue unserviceable for any considerable - time, and I believed they would be entirely equal to any service - which Lieutenant Mullan's duties might require of them. - - September 29-October 3. During these days we were all occupied in - making arrangements for the movement of the parties westward, and to - establish Lieutenant Mullan's winter post. Lieutenant Donelson - arrived on the 29th with the main party, and Lieutenant Mullan on - the 30th with a delegation of chiefs from the Flathead nation. - -It will not be attempted here to give any extended account of the -explorations made by the detached parties, which is very fully done in -the final report by Governor Stevens. No less than nine passes across -the main chain, covering the range from the 49th parallel to the -Yellowstone, and four passes across the Bitter Root Range, were -examined. The most northerly of these, the Marias Pass, is now traversed -by the Great Northern Railroad, and one of the more southerly ones, the -Mullan Pass, situated some fifty miles south of Cadotte's Pass, is -crossed by the Northern Pacific Railroad. - -Mr. Lander ran a line from the Marias River via the Teton, Sun, and -Dearborn rivers to Lewis and Clark's Pass, being the one crossed by -Captain Lewis on his return trip, and situated twelve miles north of -Cadotte's Pass, and made an examination of the pass. After traveling -some distance down the valley of the Blackfoot, he left it, and went -across country to the Hell Gate River, and moved up the valley of this -stream, mistaking it for the Bitter Root. Finally, realizing his -mistake, he turned from it, and, crossing over a number of divides and -streams, he followed an Indian trail which led him to Fort Owen. In -consequence of this eccentric route, and his animals having been much -pushed, they came in exceedingly jaded, although he started with the -best train of the whole party. He made no observations bearing upon the -railroad line except for seven miles of the pass, a short distance -thence down the Blackfoot valley, and a small portion of the Hell Gate -valley. - -Lieutenant Mullan's trip to the Muscle Shell was a very extended one, -four hundred and fifteen miles in length. He returned by the pass which -now bears his name, accompanied by a delegation of the Flathead Indians. - -Mr. Tinkham, after examining the approaches to Cadotte's Pass from the -Sun River, on a more northern route than that taken by the main party, -had left it at the camp of the 26th on the Blackfoot to explore a route -westward to the Jocko and Clark's Fork, which it was expected might -prove a cut-off, and had not yet rejoined the main party. - -On September 30 and October 1 Governor Stevens had conferences with the -chiefs of the Flatheads, and broached to them his great idea of a -Blackfoot peace council. They were very doubtful at first, having too -recent and bitter experience of Blackfoot depredations. What should they -do, they asked, in case the Blackfeet came near their camp at night? In -reply the governor advised them not to attack unless it was evident they -intended to do mischief. Still they must not remain quiet and see their -men killed or horses stolen. "I would leave Lieutenant Mullan with ten -or fifteen men to protect you from the Blackfeet, but they have promised -not to disturb you, and I believe they mean to abide by it," etc. After -considering the matter for a day among themselves, the Indians promised -to attend the council. - -The governor decided to establish a post in the Bitter Root valley for -the winter, under the charge of Lieutenant Mullan, in order to determine -the winter regimen of the mountains, the depth and duration of snow, the -climate, etc. Thirteen men were left with Lieutenant Mullan, and a large -band of animals and ample supplies, and he was instructed to make -careful meteorological observations during the winter, to continue the -exploration of the mountain section, extending it to Fort Hall on the -south, and as far as Flathead Lake or Clark's Fork on the north, and to -keep a watchful and protective eye over the Flathead Indians. - -The governor directed Lieutenant Donelson to proceed with the main party -by way of Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille Lake, and assigned Lander to -duty with him for side examinations, while the governor himself took the -more direct but rugged C[oe]ur d'Alene route over the Bitter Roots. To -Dr. Suckley was intrusted the adventurous duty of descending the Bitter -Root River, Clark's Fork, Pend Oreille Lake, and the Columbia River by -canoe to the Dalles, then the frontier settlement. Lieutenant Arnold was -to proceed from Pend Oreille Lake, separating from the main party at -that point, in a direct westerly course to Colville, and thence to -explore the plains of the great bend of the Columbia, east of that -river. - -Mr. Tinkham, who came in a few days later, was directed to explore the -Marias Pass from the west side, and, crossing the mountains by it, to -proceed to Fort Benton, confer with and take letters of instruction to -Lieutenant Grover and Mr. Doty, and return to the Bitter Root valley by -one of the southerly passes. Thence he was to cross the Bitter Root -Mountains by one of the Nez Perces trails, and proceed to Walla Walla -valley and Olympia. - -Thus by the establishment of the two stations at Fort Benton and in the -Bitter Root valley, under Mr. Doty and Lieutenant Mullan, respectively, -and by the explorations of the detached parties, Governor Stevens kept -the whole mountain region under observation and solved the questions of -climate and snows. Indeed, he had the range crossed at every month in -the year by one or other of these parties. - -Continues the personal narrative:-- - - Accordingly, on the 2d Mr. Lander went down the valley to make some - examinations of Hell Gate, and on the 3d Lieutenant Donelson was - under way with the main party. I left on the 4th and overtook and - camped with the main party in my old camp of the 27th and 28th of - September. Continuing on, on the 5th we both moved down the valley, - and encamped on the Bitter Root, some three or four miles below the - mouth of Hell Gate. Here I ascertained that Mr. Lander, instead of - waiting for the arrival of Lieutenant Donelson to receive the - instructions which I had directed to be issued to him, to go down - the Bitter Root to its mouth and join the main party at the Horse - Plain, had preceded him on the main trail, and must be somewhere - near the divide between the Bitter Root and the Jocko. Accordingly - instructions were sent directing him to return in order to proceed - on the duty which had been assigned to him. - - This same day I visited Victor at his camp on the Hell Gate, three - miles above its junction with the Bitter Root, and in return was - visited by him at our camp, where we had much interesting - conversation in regard to the Indians, the character of the country, - and the passes, particularly in the winter. I determined to remain - here until Mr. Tinkham returned, who had not yet been heard from. - - October 6. Lieutenant Donelson moved off this morning on the route - of the Jocko River and Clark's Fork. Mr. Lander, who had returned to - my camp in compliance with instructions, moved down the Bitter Root - this afternoon. I sent up to Fort Owen for Lieutenant Mullan, and we - remained in camp, passing the time as pleasantly as we could, - awaiting the arrival of Mr. Tinkham. Meanwhile a huge joint of beef - was placed upon the spit, to be in readiness when the explorers - should come in, and honest Sergeant Simpson undertook to act as - cook. Bending over the fire, with huge drops of perspiration rolling - from his glowing red face, a picture was presented which Mr. Stanley - thought not unworthy a trial of his pencil, while Osgood jokingly - told Simpson he was working then for "two dollars a day and roast - beef." The meat was cooked in the nicest manner, and at half past - five o'clock we sat down to it, having as guests Mr. Tinkham and his - party, the returned "lost sheep of the house of Israel," also - Lieutenant Mullan, who had arrived in season to join in our meal. - -Having no guide, Mr. Tinkham had not succeeded in finding a direct -route, but after a circuitous trip got through to the Jocko, and, moving -back on Lieutenant Donelson's trail, joined the governor, who now gave -him the instructions to examine the Marias Pass, etc. The narrative -continues:-- - - It is extraordinary how easy of passage the mountains are in this - latitude. A favorite time of the return of the Flathead Indians from - the buffalo hunt is between Christmas and New Year's; it is only in - winters of unusual severity that they are unable to cross during any - month. - - We have to-day seen at our camp a good deal of Victor, the Flathead - chief, celebrated in the book of De Smet. He appears to be - simple-minded, but rather wanting in energy, which might, however, - be developed in an emergency. I secured a Flathead guide to go with - Mr. Tinkham through the Marias Pass, returning with him by the - Flathead Pass. He was at first reluctant to go, but afterwards - consented. In the course of the evening he came to me to decline - going, and one or two of the men wished to back out. On tracing the - cause to its source, I found they had been alarmed by some remarks - of the guide Monroe, who told them he was afraid they would fall in - with parties of Blackfoot young men. I will here remark that the - Indian agent, Dr. Lansdale, in 1856 went over the route from the - Jocko to the Big Blackfoot, sought by Mr. Tinkham in 1853. It is - much used by the upper Pend Oreille Indians in going to hunt buffalo - east of the mountains. - - October 7. At 8.30 o'clock we were on the road, the party consisting - of Mr. Stanley, Mr. Osgood, and four voyageurs, with Antoine Plante, - the half-breed guide. Mr. Lander, who had preceded us, we overtook - in twenty-seven miles, when continuing on eight miles over a rolling - country, we came to a good camp on a small stream of water; wood and - grass most excellent. The valley of the Bitter Root is generally a - wide valley, with occasional spurs running sharp down to the banks - of the stream, but having opposite to such spurs an open prairie on - the other side of the river. - - October 8. We started at 7.30 o'clock, passing over a hilly, wooded, - and at times difficult country, with several patches of prairie, one - of which, two and a half miles long and containing probably 1000 - acres, was covered with an excellent growth of grass. Here we met a - band of fifty Nez Perces Indians going to hunt. They have from 250 - to 300 horses, most of them splendid animals, in fine condition, and - with perfectly sound backs. Women and children helped to compose the - band, and babies of fifteen months old, packed in a sitting posture, - rode along without fear, grasping the reins with their tiny hands. - We met them in the entrance to a narrow place, a mile in length, - leading along the water's edge; and wishing to have a talk with - them, but unwilling to lose time in returning to the open ground, I - invited them to turn around to the first prairie, which Antoine - assured me was not more than a mile or two beyond. The prairie we - found to be well grassed, open, and wooded. We now made our halt, - and, while preparing for our talk, a band of C[oe]ur d'Alenes - joined us. They, too, were on their way to the hunt, and numbered - about sixty, men, women, and children, and had about 200 horses. We - had a long talk. I told them about the steps taken to meet in - council at Fort Benton; dwelt particularly upon the prospect of the - Blackfeet making peace with all the Indian tribes,--upon the promise - they had given that their war parties should be stopped; and told - them that at Fort Benton and at St. Mary's I had left men who would - interfere unless these war parties ceased. This intelligence was - most gratefully received. They tell me that they return from the - hunt in March, going home by the Pend Oreille route. We parted with - them at two o'clock, and at six made a good camp near the ford by - which we mean to cross to the left bank of the Bitter Root River. - Two miles from camp we met two Pend Oreilles, who turned around with - us. At the camp we found a mother and daughter who had just crossed - the river and pitched their lodge. They had eight pack and as many - spare animals, and were on their way to join the Indians we met this - morning. We gave all the Indians coffee, and the women in return - gave us some cooked kamas root. It is of a dark color, small, - between the pear and onion in shape, and of a sweet, agreeable - flavor. - - October 9. We started at eight, and crossed the ford. The ride of - to-day has been rather tedious. We left the valley to get rid of the - undergrowth of bushes, and took a trail over the side-hill, which - carried us up and down hill successively, and in some instances - through woods, occasionally obstructed by fallen timber. At noon we - halted at a creek, where we found a single Indian family drying - venison. For a little tobacco they gave us some fresh meat and - trout, which we roasted before the fire, and which made us a - substantial lunch; after which, pursuing our course, we fell upon a - stream flowing from the dividing ridge, and, continuing up it six - miles, made a camp where we found an abundance of grass. Distance - to-day nineteen miles. - - October 10. We continued in the valley about ten miles, the road - leading through wood. Larch and spruce, and inexhaustible supplies - of limestone and marble, were met with, and the latter we afterwards - found in large quantities all through the mountains. At this point - the trail forks, one keeping to the right along the stream, and the - other turning to the left, and passing over a high, overhanging - mountain spur. Our guide, Antoine, informed us that the mountain - trail was more easy for the animals, the one to the right being much - obstructed by fallen timber. After commencing the ascent we heard - the voices of our men driving the animals in the valley beneath us, - and waited until we had turned them upon the trail we had concluded - to take. We ascended the dividing ridge, and reached a camp with - good grass upon a small lake, within a mile of its top. The lake, to - which we were obliged to descend for water, is twelve hundred feet - below the camp. - - - C[OE]UR D'ALENE OR STEVENS PASS. - - October 11. The pass beneath us was made by two rivers flowing from - the dividing ridge in opposite directions, having their sources in - lakes not more than half a mile apart; the general direction of the - valleys being east and west. We estimated our camp to be two - thousand feet above the eastern base of the mountain, and two - thousand five hundred feet above the western base. The lake upon the - eastern side was about twelve hundred feet below us, and that upon - the western side about seven hundred feet higher. After pitching - camp last night a drizzling rain commenced falling, which we - supposed would turn into snow before morning. Upon awakening this - morning we were surprised to greeted with one of the loveliest days - imaginable. The sky was clear, and the air as soft and balmy as a - morn in summer. After striking camp we ascended to the highest point - of the ridge, about a mile and a half from camp. Here we made a long - halt, enjoying the magnificent view spread open to us, which, I - venture to say, can scarcely be surpassed in any country. Far - distant in the east the peaks of the Rocky Mountains loomed up into - view, stretched out to a great length, while the Flathead Lake and - the valley thence to the Blackfoot Pass were plainly visible. Nearly - the entire range of the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mountains, clothed with - evergreen forests, with here and there an open summit covered with - grass; numerous valleys intersecting the country for miles around; - courses of many streams marked by the ascending fog,--all conduced - to render the view fascinating in the greatest degree to the - beholder. The mountains were covered with luxuriant, coarse grass. - Seated on this point, Mr. Stanley was enabled to transfer this - beautiful panorama to his sketch-book. Descending the peak to the - general level of the ridge, we continued on for six miles, when the - descent commenced, and in less than three miles we passed down a - very steep descent and gained the base of the mountains, which we - estimated rose thirty-five hundred feet above us. This brought us - into a valley filled with gigantic cedars. The larch, spruce, and - vine-maple were found in to-day's march in large quantities, the - latter giving a pleasing variety to the forest growth. About four - o'clock we encamped upon the bank of a stream, which here grows much - wider. A C[oe]ur d'Alene accompanied us to this point from the - eastern base of the dividing ridge, and at to-night's encampment we - found a C[oe]ur d'Alene and his wife on their way to hunt. - - October 12. The scarcity of grass last night caused our animals to - wander, and three of them were found at the base of the mountains - six miles back. It was not until half past ten o'clock that our men - had them all collected, and we were prepared to move. We rode until - half past three, when we halted at a beautiful camp, although the - day's march had been but twelve miles. Learning from Antoine that - the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mission was only eleven miles beyond, I - determined on going in to-night. Antoine and I accordingly mounted, - and rode to the Mission in an hour and three quarters. - - - C[OE]UR D'ALENE MISSION. - - The Mission is beautifully located upon a hill overlooking extensive - prairies stretching to the east and west towards the C[oe]ur d'Alene - Mountains and the Columbia River. About a hundred acres of the - eastern prairie adjoining the Mission are inclosed and under - cultivation, furnishing employment to thirty or forty Indians, men, - women, and children. I observed two ploughing, which they executed - skillfully; others were sowing wheat, and others digging potatoes. - Pčre Gazzoli received me with the most pleasing hospitality. - Associated with him are Pčre Ravalli, now absent to procure - supplies, and Brothers Charles Huet and Maginn. Towards evening I - witnessed the burial of an Indian chief. The funeral ceremonies were - conducted after the Catholic form, and I was struck with the - harmonious voices of the Indian choristers, and with their solemn - observance of the ceremonies. - - The Mission is composed of buildings inclosing a square. Some of - them are quite old, but the barn is large and new. The church stands - a little distance from the rest, and does much credit to those who - erected it. It is constructed upon a plan designed by Pčre Ravalli, - and is of the Roman demi-style of architecture. Pulleys and ropes - were the only mechanical aids in the construction. The interior is - prettily arranged. The altar is supported by two massive timbers of - pine which are four feet in diameter. The priests live in a - self-denying manner, and the good effect of their influence over the - Indians around them is plainly manifest. There is quite a village of - Indians near the Mission. They have some half dozen log-houses, but - most of them live in lodges. - - October 13. While awaiting the arrival of the train, I was enabled - more particularly to observe the manner in which the affairs of the - Mission are conducted. Brother Charles has charge of the buildings, - and attends to the indoor work, cooks, makes butter and cheese, - issues provisions, and pays the Indians for their work, which - payment is made in tickets bearing a certain value, "good for so - many potatoes, or so much wheat," etc. By this arrangement the - Indians are able to procure their subsistence in the summer by - hunting and fishing, and have tickets in store for living during the - winter. They are well contented, and I was pleased to observe habits - of industry growing upon them. In the barn we saw their operations - of threshing: four boys rode as many mules abreast in a circle, - being followed by two girls with flails, who appeared to be - perfectly at home in their business. One half of the barn is - reserved for their crops, while the other is arranged for cattle. - Their stock at present consists of twenty cows, eight pairs of oxen, - and ninety pigs, which are driven to pasture upon the prairie by - Indian boys daily. I noticed an Indian woman milking, and was - surprised to see her use both hands, something rarely seen amongst - the Indians. We afterwards visited the field; a large fire was - burning, and around it sat Indians roasting and eating potatoes. - There appeared to be a great scarcity of proper implements, and in - digging potatoes many had nothing better than sharpened sticks. The - train arrived about one o'clock, and Pčre Gazzoli allowed us to turn - our animals into the inclosure. - - I have heard of an ingenious method of hunting deer which is - practiced by the Indians. When the C[oe]ur d'Alenes, Pend Oreilles, - Spokanes, and Nez Perces meet together to fish and hunt, they form a - large circle, and upon the trees, around its circumference, attach - pieces of cloth made to resemble the human figure as much as - possible. Then the hunters enter the area and start up the deer. - Each cloth having the effect of a man, the deer, being afraid to - pass them, are kept within the circle and easily killed. Last year - the Pend Oreilles killed eight hundred in one hunt; the C[oe]ur - d'Alenes, more than four hundred. - - When the Indians returned from the field I addressed them as - follows:-- - - "I am glad to see you and find that you are under such good - direction. I have come four times as far as you go to hunt - buffalo, and have come with directions from the Great Father to - see you, to talk to you, and do all I can for your welfare. I see - cultivated fields, a church, houses, cattle, and the fruits of the - earth, the work of your own hands. The Great Father will be - delighted to hear this, and will certainly assist you. Go on, and - every family will have a house and a patch of ground, and every - one will be well clothed. I have had talks with the Blackfeet, who - promise to make peace with all the Indian tribes. Listen to the - good Father and to the good brothers, who labor for your good." - - October 15. We started at eight o'clock, after having given Brother - Charles as many lariats for raising the timbers of the church as we - could spare, and made eighteen miles and a quarter, meeting on the - way some forty Indians, C[oe]ur d'Alenes, Nez Perces, and Spokanes, - on their way to buffalo. We camped to-day in a beautiful prairie, - called the Wolf's Lodge, with good grass. Here we found nearly a - hundred Spokanes, with some three hundred horses, on their way to - the hunt. Towards sundown this evening I was greatly interested in - observing the Spokanes at their devotions. A bell rang, and the - whole band gathered in and around a large lodge for evening prayers. - There was something solemn and pathetic in the evening psalm - resounding through the forests around us. This shows what good - results can flow from the labors of devoted missionaries, for the - Spokanes have had no religious instruction for the last five years. - As I went down the river and met band after band of the Spokanes, I - invariably found the same regard for religious services. - - Afterwards they came around to my camp-fire, and we had a talk. - Garry, they say, is at his farm, four miles from the Spokane House. - - October 16. We started at eight o'clock, our route being through an - open wooded prairie. Soon after leaving camp the C[oe]ur d'Alene - Lake came in view to the south of us, and eleven miles from camp we - struck it near its western extremity. It is a beautiful sheet of - water, surrounded by picturesque hills, mostly covered with wood. - Its shape is irregular, unlike that given it upon the maps. Its - waters are received from the C[oe]ur d'Alene River, which runs - through it. Below the lake the river is not easily navigable, there - being many rapids, and in numerous places it widens greatly, and - runs sluggishly through a shallow channel. Above the lake I am - informed by the missionaries that it is navigable nearly to the - Mission. Leaving the lake, we followed the river on its northern - bank, passing a camp of C[oe]ur d'Alenes, occupied with their trout - fisheries. Here we witnessed a touching sight, a daughter - administering to her dying father. Still keeping through open woods - on a most excellent road, in two miles farther we came to the - C[oe]ur d'Alene prairie, a beautiful tract of land containing - several hundred square miles. After crossing the prairie, a distance - of some eighteen miles, we continued on and encamped at a spring - with sparse grass. Had we gone two miles farther, we should have - found an excellent camp on the river, and the next morning some of - our animals were found in this very spot. The horses of the Spokanes - roam over this prairie in herds of from twelve to twenty. Towards - the latter portion of the march the river runs over a rocky bed of - trap. - - October 17. Leaving camp, Antoine, Osgood, Stanley, and myself - turned from the trail to visit the falls of the C[oe]ur d'Alene - River, while Lavatte took the train ahead on the trail to the - Spokane House. There are two principal falls, one of twenty feet and - the other of from ten to twelve feet, in the latter there being a - perpendicular fall of seven or eight feet; for a quarter of a mile - the descent is rapid, over a rough bed of rocks, and in this - distance we estimated a fall of ninety or one hundred feet. One mile - below this point we came to the ferry crossed by Saxton. Here there - is a small Indian village, and the inhabitants were engaged in - catching salmon. I noticed one large woman who seemed to pride - herself upon her person, which she took pains to set off in the most - becoming manner by means of a blanket wrapped around her. The road - to the Spokane House was over a sandy prairie, interspersed with - groves of pine. Crossing a dividing ridge with high and steep banks, - we came into the prairie in which the Spokane House is situated, in - which were two Spokane villages. We inquired for Garry, and I sent - him a request that he would visit me at my camp. The train we found - a mile below the junction, across the Spokane. The Indians - indicating a good camp some distance beyond, we moved on eight and a - half miles to it, which we reached half an hour before sundown. Here - there was good grass and plenty of water, and we soon made up a - large campfire. After arranging matters in camp, I observed about - nightfall a fire down the river, and, strolling down to the place, - came upon a little camp of Spokane Indians, and found them engaged - in religious services, which I was glad of an opportunity to - witness. There were three or four men, the same number of women, and - half a dozen children. Their exercises were, 1, address; 2, Lord's - prayer; 3, Psalms; 4, benediction, and were conducted with great - solemnity. - - In the evening Garry visited us with some of his tribe. They gave - rumors of a large party having arrived opposite Colville, also of a - small party having gone from Walla Walla to Colville. - - Garry was educated by the Hudson Bay Company at Red River, where he - lived four years with six other Indians from this vicinity, all of - whom are now dead. He speaks English and French well, and we have - had a long conversation this evening; but he is not frank, and I do - not understand him. He has an extensive field, where he raises a - large quantity of wheat. To-morrow he is going to Colville to get - some of it ground. Garry promises to send me to-morrow the Indian - who has just arrived from the Yakima country, and who is posted up - concerning the news of that place. - - October 18. A Spokane breakfasted with us this morning, and we - started at 8.30 o'clock. After riding till ten o'clock we were - joined by the old Indian referred to yesterday, and Antoine's - services were immediately put into requisition to obtain - information. At twelve o'clock we lunched. The old man stated that a - large party reached the bank of the river opposite Colville - yesterday, and that they would cross to-day. I was satisfied from - his accounts that the party was McClellan's, and accordingly - determined on going to Colville to-night. Antoine has horses half - way. We rested until two o'clock and then set out, Antoine and - myself pushing ahead of the train. We met Antoine's family encamped - on a fine prairie, with whom Antoine remained, sending his - brother-in-law with us as a guide. At 4.15 we reached the ferry, - where we were detained fifteen minutes. At 4.45 we met Jack - (Lieutenant Macfeely's guide), who informed me that Macfeely reached - Walla Walla three weeks ago, being twenty-two days coming from St. - Mary's. He lost twenty animals, and was detained two days in an - unsuccessful search for a man who had strayed from the trail. The - road was bad, and they got off the trail, having struck too high up. - Jack told us it was twenty-eight miles to Colville, and that we - could not reach there to-night, but, being determined to do so, we - pushed on and reached Brown's at 5.45, who informed us that the - distance to Colville was eighteen miles. After partaking of some - bread and milk, we resumed the road with the same animals, dashing - off at full speed, going eight or nine miles an hour most of the - way, and reached Colville at nine o'clock. Mr. McDonald, the trader - in charge, gave me a most hospitable reception, and addressed a note - to McClellan, who had just gone to his camp near by, informing him - of my arrival. McClellan came up immediately, and, though I was - fairly worn out with the severeness of the ride, we sat up till one - o'clock. At eleven we sat down to a nice supper, prepared by Mrs. - McDonald, and regaled ourselves with steaks cooked in buffalo fat, - giving them the flavor of buffalo meat. I retired exhausted with the - fatigues of the day. - - - CAPTAIN MCCLELLAN'S EXPLORATIONS. - -It took Captain McClellan a month to fit out his train after he reached -Vancouver, on the lower Columbia, so that he did not start on his survey -until the last of July. Crossing the Cascade Range by a pass south of -Mount Adams, he proceeded northward over the plains on the eastern side -of the range to the Yakima valley, moving one hundred and eighty miles -in thirty days, and remained there a month longer, during which Mr. -Gibbs examined the lower and Lieutenant Duncan the upper valley. Captain -McClellan himself, leaving his party in camp, made a hasty examination -of the Snoqualmie Pass, at the head of the main Yakima. Then he crossed -over a dividing ridge to the Columbia River, and continued up its right -or western bank to the Okinakane (Okanogan) River, a distance of ninety -miles, spent several days in exploring that and neighboring streams, -then ascended the Okinakane (Okanogan) River some fifty miles to Lake -Osoyoos, and moved eastward from this point eighty-two miles to the -Columbia, opposite Colville, and crossed on the 18th, the very day of -Governor Stevens's arrival at the same point. - -McClellan, as appears from his report, took a decidedly unfavorable view -of the country, and of a railroad route across the Cascades. He declared -in substance that the Columbia River Pass was the only one worth -considering, that there was no pass whatever north of it except the -Snoqualmie Pass, and gave it as his firm and settled opinion that the -snow in winter was from twenty to twenty-five feet deep in that pass. - -His examination of the pass was a very hasty and cursory one, with no -other instruments than a compass and a barometer, and extended only -three miles across the summit. His only information as to the depth of -winter snow was the reports of Indians, and the marks of snow on the -trees, or what he took to be such. Thus the most important point, the -real problem of the field of exploration intrusted to him, namely, the -existence and character of the Cascade passes, he failed to determine. -He failed utterly to respond to Governor Stevens's earnest and manly -exhortation, "We must not be frightened with long tunnels, or enormous -snows, but set ourselves to work to overcome them." He manifested the -same dilatoriness in preparation and moving, the same timidity in -action, the same magnifying of difficulties, that later marked and -ruined his career as an army commander. - -Two railroads now cross the range which he examined,--the Northern -Pacific, by a pass just south of the Snoqualmie and north of the -Nahchess, the very place of which McClellan reported that "there -certainly is none between this (the Snoqualmie) and the Nahchess Pass;" -and the Great Northern, by a pass at the head of the Wenachee or -Pisquouse River, of which stream he declared, "It appears certain that -there can be no pass at its head for a road." The snows he so much -exaggerated have proved no obstacle, and in fact have actually caused -less trouble and obstruction in these passes than in the Columbia Pass -itself.[6] - -FOOTNOTES: - - [4] The town of Missoula is seated at the entrance to Hell Gate. The - Bitter Root River is now known as the Missoula, the name Bitter - Root being transferred to a branch of Clark's Fork. The Bitter - Root or St. Mary valley is likewise now known as the Missoula - valley. - - [5] Fort Owen occupied the site of the Flathead village and Catholic - mission of St. Mary, which had been recently abandoned in - consequence of the incessant forays of the Blackfeet. - - [6] One of the lines of the Northern Pacific Railroad now crosses - the C[oe]ur d'Alene Pass on Governor Stevens's route, to the - vicinity of the Mission, running thence south of the C[oe]ur - d'Alene Lake to Spokane. - - - - - CHAPTER XXI - - UPPER COLUMBIA TO PUGET SOUND - - -Upon learning the results of McClellan's explorations, Governor Stevens -proposed to send him up the Yakima again to carry the survey clear -across the Cascades to Puget Sound, and at first that officer seemed -willing to undertake the duty. After spending two days at Colville the -governor, accompanied by McClellan and his party, moved south in three -marches to a camp six miles south of the Spokane River, named Camp -Washington, where on October 28 arrived Lieutenant Donelson with the -main party. During these days there was a fall of snow covering the -ground, which, however, soon melted and disappeared. But it was enough -to dismay McClellan. He now demurred to crossing the Cascades, claiming -it to be impracticable so late in the fall. It was indeed late; snow had -already fallen on the plains, and presumably would be deeper in the -mountains; and the Cascades were McClellan's own particular field, of -which he ought to be the best judge. The governor therefore reluctantly, -and rather against his better judgment, relinquished the plan of -crossing the Snoqualmie Pass that fall, and gave orders for both parties -to move by way of Walla Walla and the Dalles to Vancouver, and thence to -Olympia, at the head of Puget Sound. - - "Had I possessed at Camp Washington," says the governor, - "information which I gained in six days afterwards at Walla Walla, I - should have pushed the party over the Cascades in the present - condition of the animals; but Captain McClellan was entitled to - weight in his judgment of the route, it being upon the special field - of his examination." - -The incidents of the march to Camp Washington are thus narrated:-- - - During our stay at Colville, we visited McDonald's camp. Near it - there is a mission, under the charge of Pčre Lewis, whom we visited. - The Indians about the mission are well disposed and religious. As we - returned to the fort, Mr. Stanley was just going into camp, having - made a march of thirty-five miles. In the evening we listened to the - thrilling stories and exciting legends of McDonald, with which his - memory seems to be well stored. He says intelligence had reached him - through the Blackfeet of the coming of my party; that the Blackfeet - gave most singular accounts of everything connected with us. For - instance, they said that our horses had claws like the grizzly bear; - they climbed up the steep rocks and held on by their claws; that - their necks were like the new moon; and that their neighing was like - the sound of distant thunder. McDonald has, of course, given a free - translation of the reports made by Indians. We listened to his - accounts of his own thrilling adventures of his mountain life, and a - description of an encounter with a party of Blackfeet is well worth - relating. At the head of a party of three or four men he was met by - a band of these Indians, who showed evidences of hostility. By signs - he requested the chief of the Blackfeet to advance and meet him, - both being unarmed. When the chief assented, and met him half way - between the two parties, McDonald caught him by the hair of the - head, and, holding him firmly, exacted from the remaining Indians - promises to give up their arms, which they accordingly did, and - passed on peaceably. He has lived here many years, and is an - upright, intelligent, manly, and energetic man. - - October 21. We moved off. McDonald presented us with a keg filled - with cognac to cheer the hearts of the members of all the parties, - and obliged us also to take a supply of port wine. We passed his - gristmill on Mill River, the only one in the neighborhood. A march - of twelve miles brought us into camp, McDonald accompanying us. We - had a glorious supper of smoking steaks and hot cakes, and the - stories added to the relish with which it was eaten. McDonald again - charmed us with a recital of his thrilling adventures. - - October 22. We got off early, and at Brown's we stopped to purchase - horses, and succeeded in obtaining two, one for McClellan and the - other for myself. McDonald accompanied me some distance farther, - when, bidding each other adieu, I pushed ahead, and, reaching a - small stream, I found that McClellan's party had taken the left - bank, and that the captain had gone on to join them. We took the - right, and thus avoided a bad crossing in which McClellan's party - became involved. We encamped upon the borders of the stream. Our - train is larger and more heavily laden than heretofore, in - consequence of the increased supplies. To-day we have thirteen - packs. At night we killed a cow purchased of Brown, and we still - have an ox in reserve, to be killed when we meet Donelson. The air - is cool and fresh, and our appetites keen. I may say here that two - pounds of beef and half a pound of flour per man are not too much - for a day's allowance. - - October 23. Snow is falling this morning, and it has cleaned our - beef admirably. We journeyed but ten miles, encamping near where we - had seen Antoine's family in going to Colville. The snow ceased - falling about noon, with five inches upon the ground. It is light, - and we think it will disappear in a few days. The Indians inform me - that we shall not probably find it south of the C[oe]ur d'Alene, and - from their statements it would seem that this river is a dividing - line as regards climate. - - October 24. We started this morning with the intention of reaching - the appointed place of meeting to-night. McClellan, Minter, Osgood, - Stanley, and myself pushed ahead, and at noon we reached the old - Chemakane Mission, so called from a spring of that name near by. The - mission was occupied by Messrs. Walker and Eells, but in 1849, in - consequence of the Cuyuse difficulties, it was abandoned. These - gentlemen labored ardently for the good of the Indians. Walker was a - good farmer and taught them agriculture, and by them his name is now - mentioned with great respect. The house occupied by Walker is still - standing, but Eells's has been burned down. The site of the mission - is five miles from the Spokane River, in an extensive open valley, - well watered and very rich. Here we met Garry and two hundred - Spokanes. Garry has forwarded the letter to Donelson, but has - received no intelligence of his arrival in the C[oe]ur d'Alene - plain. We therefore concluded to encamp here, and to-morrow - McClellan and myself are to accompany Garry to the Spokane House. - The Colville or Slawntebus and Chemakane valleys have a productive - soil, and are from one to three miles wide, and bordered by low - hills, covered with larch, pine, and spruce, and having also a - productive soil. In the evening the Indians clustered around our - fire, and manifested much pleasure in our treatment of them. I have - now seen a great deal of Garry, and am much pleased with him. - Beneath a quiet exterior he shows himself to be a man of judgment, - forecast, and great reliability, and I could see in my interview - with his band the ascendency he possesses over them. - - In the Colville valley there is a line of settlements twenty-eight - miles long. The settlers are persons formerly connected with the - Hudson Bay Company, and they are anxious to become naturalized, and - have the lands they now occupy transferred to themselves. I informed - them that I could only express my hopes that their case would be met - by the passage of a special act. They are extensive farmers, and - raise a great deal of wheat. - - October 25. Having left the necessary directions for moving camp to - the place of meeting with Donelson, Captain McClellan and myself - accompanied Garry to the Spokane House. The road was slippery in - consequence of the melting of the snow, and we were obliged - frequently to dismount. We found Garry's family in a comfortable - lodge, and he informed us that he always had on hand flour, sugar, - and coffee, with which to make his friends comfortable. We then went - to our new camp south of the Spokane, which had been established - whilst we were visiting Garry's place. From the Chemakane Mission - the train left the river, and, passing through a rolling country - covered with open pine woods, in five miles reached the Spokane, and - crossing it by a good and winding ford, ascended the plain, and in - six miles, the first two of which was through open pine, reached - Camp Washington. - - October 26, 27, 28, and 29. During these days I was occupied at our - camp (Camp Washington) in making the arrangements for moving - westward. Lieutenant Donelson arrived on the 28th, and we all sat - down to a fine supper prepared for the occasion. All the members of - the exploration were in fine spirits; our table was spread under a - canopy, and upon it a great variety of dishes appeared, roasted - beef, bouillon, steaks, and abundance of hot bread, coffee, sugar, - and our friend McDonald's good cheer. But the best dish was a beef's - head cooked by friend Minter in Texas fashion. It was placed in a - hole in the ground on a layer of hot coals, with moss and leaves - around it to protect it from the dirt, and then covered up. There it - remained for some five or six hours, when, removing it, the skin - came off without difficulty, and it presented a very tempting dish, - and was enjoyed by every member of the party. - -Having given the necessary instructions to McClellan and Donelson to -proceed with their parties to the Walla Walla, thence to the Dalles, -Vancouver, and Olympia, making careful survey of the country on the -route, the governor, with his small party, pushed on ahead, having Garry -and his brother as guides. Starting late in the afternoon of the 29th, -they journeyed thirteen miles over undulating hills and a high -table-land, and encamped upon a small stream called Se-cule-eel-qua, -with fine grass and fertile soil. - - October 30. We commenced to move at sunrise, and at three P.M. - encamped on a small lake twenty-two miles from our place of - departure in the morning. In view of this camp were the graves of a - number of Spokane Indians, indicated by mounds of stones, designed - to protect the bodies from the wolves, and by poles supported in an - upright position by the stones. It was the usage until within a few - years past, for the Spokanes and other northern tribes towards the - Pacific to slay the horses and cattle of the deceased at his grave, - and also to sacrifice his other property, but they are gradually - relinquishing this pernicious practice, under the influence of the - counsels and example of the white man. - - October 31. We continued to follow the general course of the stream - upon whose banks we were encamped, and after riding eight miles we - crossed another small stream, rising in a chain of small lakes south - of our last camp. These lakes abound in wild fowl, which at this - season are very plentiful, and they are therefore much resorted to - by the Spokanes and other Indians. We saw in one of these lakes, - surrounded by ducks and geese, a pair of white swans, which remained - to challenge our admiration after their companions had been - frightened away by our approach. - - Garry assures us that there is a remarkable lake called - En-chush-chesh-she-luxum, or Never Freezing Water, about thirty - miles to the east of this place. It is much larger than any of the - lakes just mentioned, and so completely surrounded by high and - precipitous rocks that it is impossible to descend to the water. It - is said never to freeze, even in the most severe winter. The Indians - believe that it is inhabited by buffalo, elk, deer, and all other - kinds of game, which, they say, may be seen in the clear, - transparent element. He also narrates the story of a superstition - respecting a point of painted rock in Pend Oreille Lake, situated - near the place now occupied by Michal Ogden. The Indians, he says, - do not venture to pass this point, fearing that the Great Spirit - may, as related in the legends, create a commotion in the water and - cause them to be swallowed up in the waves. The painted rocks are - very high, and bear effigies of men and beasts and other characters, - made, as the Indians believe, by a race of men who preceded them as - inhabitants of the land. - - Our route to-day has been through a rocky and broken country, and - after a march of thirty-two miles we encamped on a small stream - called En-cha-rae-nae, flowing from the lake where we last halted, - near a number of natural mounds. - - November 1. Our course lay down the valley of the En-cha-rae-nae, a - rugged way, beset with deep clefts in the volcanic rocks. We crossed - the Pelouse River near the mouth of the former, and near the stream - flowing from the never freezing lake, and twelve miles from the - mouth of the Pelouse. Four miles from our place of crossing the - Pelouse runs through a deep caņon, surrounded by isolated volcanic - buttes, to its junction with Snake River. At two P.M. we arrived at - the mouth of the Pelouse, and, crossing Snake River, we encamped on - its southern bank, several Pelouse Indians accompanying us, and - among them a chief from a band but a few miles distant from our - camp, Wi-ti-my-hoy-she. He exhibited a medal of Thomas Jefferson, - dated 1801, given to his grandfather, as he alleges, by Lewis and - Clark. - - November 2. I have referred in an early stage of this narrative to - the condition of my health, and will state that not a day was I on - the road from Fort Benton to this point that I did not suffer much. - The day I made my long ride to Colville, I was so feeble and - exhausted that, on making my noon halt after moving fifteen miles, I - was obliged to have my bed spread in order to rest; but the idea of - meeting gentlemen so soon, from whom I had been so long separated, - enabled me to bear the fatigue of my afternoon fifty miles' ride to - Colville. Although in great suffering, I determined to move with - Garry from Snake River to Fort Walla Walla to-day, leaving Mr. - Stanley to come on with my party and train in two days. I desired to - save a day in order to collect information at Walla Walla, and to - visit the Walla Walla valley. Accordingly we set off. It required me - three hours to get my courage up to the sticking-point, so that I - could bear the pain growing out of traveling at a gait faster than a - walk; but, getting warm in the saddle, we increased our speed, and - on reaching the Touchet we dismounted for a slight halt. Pushing on - a little before two o'clock, we reached Fort Walla Walla at sundown, - moving the last twenty-five miles at the rate of about eight miles - an hour, and were there hospitably received by Mr. Pembrum, the - factor in charge, and after a little conversation I refreshed myself - with reading some late papers. On the road my time was much occupied - with studying the deportment of the mountain ranges in view, and all - the peculiarities of the country about me, to judge something of its - winter climate and the probable fall of snow; and on reaching Walla - Walla I became satisfied from these things, and especially from a - view of the highest spur of the Blue Mountains in sight, that the - snows of the Cascades could not be so formidable as they had been - represented. I accordingly determined to search thoroughly into this - matter at Walla Walla. - - November 3-8. I remained in the Walla Walla country during these - days, spending two days up the valley and the remainder at the fort. - Mr. Stanley, with the train, reached the fort on the 3d, and, - - November 4, we started upon the trip through the valley, riding upon - our horses. Arriving at the Hudson Bay farm, we exchanged them for - fresh ones. This farm is eighteen miles from Walla Walla, and is a - fine tract of land, well adapted to grazing or cultivation. It is - naturally bounded by streams, and is equivalent to a mile square. - There is the richest grass here that we have seen since leaving St. - Mary's. From this we went to McBane's house, a retired factor of the - company, from whence we had a fine view of the southern portion of - the valley, which is watered by many tributaries from the Blue - Mountains. Thirty miles from Walla Walla, and near McBane's, lives - Father Chirouse, a missionary of the Catholic order, who with two - laymen exercises his influence among the surrounding tribes. - - November 5. We remained with Mr. McBane overnight, and returned to - the fort to-day by way of the Whitman Mission, now occupied by - Bumford and Brooke. They were harvesting, and I saw as fine potatoes - as ever I beheld, many weighing two pounds, and one five and a half. - Their carrots and beets, too, were of extraordinary size. Mr. - Whitman must have done a great deal of good for the Indians. His - mission was situated upon a fine tract of land, and he had erected a - saw and grist mill. From Bumford's to the mouth of the Touchet are - many farms, mostly occupied by the retired employees of the Hudson - Bay Company. On our return we met Pu-pu-mox-mox, the Walla Walla - chief, known and respected far and wide. He possesses not so much - intelligence and energy as Garry, but he has some gifts of which the - latter is deprived. He is of dignified manner, and well qualified to - manage men. He owns over two thousand horses, besides many cattle, - and has a farm near that of the Hudson Bay Company. On the - occurrence of the Cuyuse war, he was invited to join them, but - steadily refused. After their destruction of the mission, he was - asked to share the spoils, and again refused. They then taunted him - with being afraid of the whites, to which he replied: "I am not - afraid of the whites, nor am I afraid of the Cuyuses. I defy your - whole band. I will plant my three lodges on the border of my own - territory at the mouth of the Touchet, and there I will meet you if - you dare to attack me." He accordingly moved his lodges to this - point, and remained there three or four weeks. Stanley was on his - way from Walker and Eells's Mission to Whitman's Mission, and indeed - was actually within three miles of the latter, when he heard of the - terrible tragedy which had been enacted there, and the information - was brought to him by an Indian of Pu-pu-mox-mox's band. - Pu-pu-mox-mox has saved up a large amount of money (probably as much - as $5000); still he is generous, and frequently gives an ox and - other articles of value to the neighbors. Some of his people having - made a contract to ferry the emigrants across the river, who crossed - the Cascades this year, and then having refused to execute it, he - compelled them to carry it out faithfully, and, mounting his horse, - he thrashed them until they complied. He has the air of a - substantial farmer. - -On the 6th Lieutenant Donelson and on the 7th Captain McClellan reached -old Fort Walla Walla with the main parties. Governor Stevens was now -satisfied, both from his own observations and from information furnished -by Pembrum, Pu-pu-mox-mox, and others, among them a voyageur who had -actually crossed the Cascades in the month of December, that it was not -yet too late to send a party across these mountains. Accordingly he -directed Mr. Lander to proceed up the Yakima and over the Nahchess Pass -in order to run the line to the Sound. - -The governor had a remarkable faculty for getting information from -people of every kind and condition, Hudson Bay Company men, settlers, -voyageurs, and Indians, and always took great pains to learn all they -could impart, while his keen and sound judgment enabled him to -distinguish the chaff from the wheat in their reports. - -Having provided fresh animals for Mr. Lander, given him his written -instructions, and in conversation urged upon him the entire feasibility -of the survey intrusted to him, the governor, with Mr. Stanley, on -November 8 started down the Columbia in a canoe managed by voyageurs, -and reached the Dalles on the 12th. Says the governor:-- - - "We took with us two days' provisions, and were four days in - reaching the Dalles, having been detained nearly two days in camp by - a high wind which blew up the river, but we eked out our scanty - stores by the salmon generously furnished us by the Indian bands - near us. At the principal rapids I got out and observed the - movements of the canoe through them, and, from the best examination - which I was able to make, I became at once convinced that the river - was probably navigable for steamers. I remained at the Dalles on the - 13th to make arrangements for the moving forward of the parties and - for herding the animals, looking to a resumption of the survey, - where I was the guest of Major Rains, and had a most pleasant time, - meeting old acquaintances and making new ones with the gentlemen of - the post. On the 14th I reached the Cascades, where I passed the - night. Here I met several gentlemen--men who had crossed the plains, - and who had made farms in several States and in Oregon or - Washington--who had carefully examined the Yakima country for new - locations, and who impressed me with the importance of it as an - agricultural and grazing country. November 15 we went down the river - in a canoe, and on the 16th reached Vancouver, where I remained the - 17th, 18th, and 19th as the guest of Colonel Bonneville, and where I - also became acquainted with the officers of the Hudson Bay Company. - - "Leaving Vancouver on the 20th, I reached Olympia on the 25th, where - for the first time I saw the waters of Puget Sound. No special - incident worthy of remark occurred on the journey, except that I was - four days going up the Cowlitz in drenching rains, and two nights - had the pleasure of camping out. I will now advise voyageurs in the - interior, when they get suddenly into the rains west of the - Cascades, to take off their buckskin underclothing. I neglected to - do this, and among the many agreeabilities of this trip up the - Cowlitz was to have the underclothing of buckskin wet entirely - through. I was enabled to examine the country pretty carefully all - the way to Olympia, and had with me a very intelligent man, who - could point out localities and inform me about the country not in - view of the road; and I saw that not only was it entirely - practicable for a railroad line to the Sound, but that the work was - light, and the material for construction of all kinds entirely - inexhaustible. - - "After considerable delays at Vancouver, the gentlemen of the - parties under Captain McClellan and Lieutenant Donelson arrived at - Olympia for office duty, being preceded a few days by Mr. Lander, - who for reasons not conclusive to my mind did not persevere in the - examination of the Nahchess Pass. One of his reasons for not - continuing his examination was that it was not on the railroad line, - which did not apply, because that fact was well known to him - previously, having been announced to him positively in my written - instructions. I did not censure Mr. Lander for not continuing on - this duty, as I know the perplexity of mind in which one is placed - by the contradictory character of the information gained; but I - resolved to get my line to the Sound, and accordingly dispatched an - express to the Walla Walla, directing Mr. Tinkham on his arrival at - that point to cross to Puget Sound by the Snoqualmie Pass, my object - being twofold,--to get at some facts which would decisively settle - the question of the depth of snow, in regard to which Captain - McClellan and myself differed, as well as really to connect our work - with the Sound itself." - -Thus Lander purposely balked the task intrusted to him, and threw away -another fine opportunity of achieving credit for himself. - -Upon McClellan's arrival at Olympia, Governor Stevens directed him to -take up from the Sound the reconnoissance for a railroad line to the -Snoqualmie Pass, connecting with his examination on the eastern side, -which had extended three miles across the summit. But again McClellan -failed to accomplish the task, deterred as usual by the reports of -Indians, and magnified difficulties. Leaving Olympia December 23, with -Mr Minter, civil engineer, and four men, he spent five days at -Steilacoom in a vain attempt to procure horses and guides for the -Snoqualmie Falls, intending to proceed thence on snowshoes. Then he went -by canoe down the Sound and up the Snohomish River to the falls, and -pushed forward on foot four miles to the prairie just above the falls. - - "I found," he reports, "the prairie to be about as represented,--in - places bare, but in others with three or four inches of snow. - Leaving my companions at the Indian bivouac to make the best - preparations they could for passing the night (for we had neither - tent, blanket, nor overcoat), I went forward on the trail with two - Indians. - - "As soon as we left the prairie the ground became entirely covered - with snow; it soon became a foot deep in the shallowest spots, and - was constantly increasing. All signs of a trail were - obliterated,--the underbrush very thick and loaded with snow,--the - snow unfit for snowshoes, according to the Indians. I now turned - back to our bivouac, and there awaited the arrival of an Indian who - was out hunting, and who was said to possess much information about - the country. He soon arrived, and proved to be a very intelligent - Yakima, whom I had seen on the other side of the mountains in the - summer. He had been hunting in the direction I wished to go, and - stated that the snow soon increased to 'waist-deep' long before - reaching the Nooksai-Nooksai, and that it was positively - impracticable to use snowshoes. He also said that the Indians did - not pretend to cross over the mountains at this season, but waited - till about the end of March, and then took their horses over. - - "Next morning, after again questioning the Indian, I reluctantly - determined to return, being forced to the conclusion that, if the - attempt to reach the pass was not wholly impracticable, it was at - least inexpedient under all the circumstances in which I was - placed."[7] - -Could any man but McClellan have seriously asserted that "it was -positively impracticable to use snowshoes" on snow, and that, too, on -the authority of Indians, who were notoriously unreliable, and who, in -their jealousy of white exploration, habitually exaggerated the -difficulties of the country? This seems the very acme of imaginary -obstacles. It was January 10 that McClellan turned back. Had he manfully -taken to his snowshoes, he could have reached the summit in three or -four days, and connected with his reconnoissance on the eastern side, -and this was soon demonstrated to his deep disgust. - -Far different was the action and spirit of Tinkham. He had just arrived -at Walla Walla from a remarkable and arduous trip, during which he -crossed the Rocky Mountains by the Marias Pass, proceeded to Fort -Benton, recrossed the mountains by a more southern pass to the Bitter -Root valley, and thence crossed the Bitter Root Range on snowshoes by -the rugged southern Nez Perces trail, when he received Governor -Stevens's instructions to push to the Sound by way of the Snoqualmie -Pass. Starting from Walla Walla on January 7 with two Indians, he -proceeded up the Yakima to its head on horseback, and there leaving his -animals, he crossed the mountains on snowshoes, and reached Seattle on -January 26, seven days after leaving the eastern base of the divide, and -twenty days from Walla Walla. He carefully measured the depth of snow -and reported:-- - - "From Lake Kitchelus to the summit, some five miles, and where - occurs the deepest snow, the average measurement was about six feet, - but frequently running as high as seven feet. Passing on to the west - side of the Cascades, the snow rapidly disappears; fourteen miles - from the summit there was but eight inches of snow, and thence it - gradually faded away as approach was made to the shores of the - Sound: for only a few miles was the snow six feet deep; the whole - breadth over twelve inches deep was somewhat less than sixty miles - in extent." - -Thus Tinkham actually crossed the range and reached the Sound, making -the very trip that McClellan pronounced "impracticable" and would not -even try, only ten days after the latter's failure. - -But McClellan's pride was hurt by this incident. He took Governor -Stevens's opinion as to the snow question, and his action in sending -Tinkham across the pass, in high dudgeon as a reflection on himself, -and, regardless of the true friendship shown him and benefits conferred -upon him by the governor, treated him with marked coldness. In his usual -generous and magnanimous way, Governor Stevens took no notice of this -changed attitude of McClellan, but gave him all possible credit in his -reports. Some years afterwards, when Governor Stevens was in Congress, -their mutual friend, Captain J.G. Foster, came to him, and said that -McClellan wished to meet him again and renew their old friendship. -Accordingly they met at Willard's, and McClellan appeared as cordial and -agreeable as of old. - -Captain McClellan had been instructed, after completing his -reconnoissance of the Snoqualmie Pass, to examine the harbors on the -eastern shore of the Sound as far as Bellingham Bay. But he gave up this -duty also, after proceeding a single day's trip in canoes about twenty -miles north of the mouth of the Snohomish River to the northern -extremity of McDonough or Camano Island, where he encamped for the -night, alleging as usual the inclemency of the weather: "During that -night six inches of snow fell and a violent gale arose, so that on the -next day we were unable to proceed. On the next day (14th), the wind -still continuing dead ahead and very violent, I turned back," etc. - -Yet at this very time Governor Stevens was making a complete tour of the -Sound in a small open sailboat, regardless of wind and weather. - -McClellan also failed to do anything towards opening the military road -across the Cascades between Steilacoom and Fort Walla Walla; and -Lieutenant Richard Arnold, under the governor's general supervision, -relieved him of the charge of the road, and completed it in 1854. - -It will be remembered how Governor Stevens had placed this road in -McClellan's hands, had furnished him with information and correspondence -relating to it, and had advised him to consult with the prominent -settlers in regard to the best location of it. Of these people the -governor remarks in his report:-- - - "They have crossed the mountains, and made the long distance from - the valley of the Mississippi to their homes on the Pacific; they - have done so frequently, having to cut out roads as they went, and - knowing little of the difficulties before them. They are therefore - men of observation, of experience, of enterprise, and men who at - home had by industry and frugality secured a competency and the - respect of their neighbors; for it must be known that our emigrants - travel in parties, and those go together who were acquaintances at - home, because they mutually confide in each other. I was struck with - the high qualities of the frontier people, and soon learned how to - confide in them and gather information from them." - -Contrast with this McClellan's assertions in his letter to Secretary of -War Davis, of September 18, 1853:-- - - "But the result of my short experience in this country has been that - not the slightest faith or confidence is to be placed in information - derived from the employees of the Hudson Bay Company, or from the - inhabitants of the Territory; in every instance, when I have acted - upon information thus obtained, I have been altogether deceived and - misled." - -But he was ready enough to adopt the reports of Indians in support of -obstacles which existed chiefly in his own imagination. - -FOOTNOTES: - - [7] Pacific R.R. Reports, vol. i. pp. 622-624. - - - - - CHAPTER XXII - - ORGANIZING CIVIL GOVERNMENT.--THE INDIAN SERVICE - - -It was indeed a wild country, untouched by civilization, and a scanty -white population sparsely sprinkled over the immense area that were -awaiting the arrival of Governor Stevens to organize civil government, -and shape the destinies of the future. A mere handful of settlers, 3965 -all told, were widely scattered over western Washington, between the -lower Columbia and the Strait of Fuca. A small hamlet clustered around -the military post at Vancouver. A few settlers were spread wide apart -along the Columbia, among whom were Columbia Lancaster on Lewis River; -Seth Catlin, Dr. Nathaniel Ostrander, and the Huntingtons about the -mouth of the Cowlitz; Alexander S. Abernethy at Oak Point; and Judge -William Strong at Cathlamet. Some oystermen in Shoalwater Bay were -taking shellfish for the San Francisco market. At Cowlitz Landing, -thirty miles up that river, were extensive prairies, where farms had -been cultivated by the Hudson Bay Company, under the name of the Puget -Sound Agricultural Company, for fifteen years; and here were a few -Americans and a number of Scotch and Canadians, former employees of that -company, and now looking forward to becoming American citizens, and -settling down upon their own "claims" under the Donation Act, which gave -320 acres to every settler, and as much more to his wife. A score of -hardy pioneers had settled upon the scattered prairies between the -Cowlitz Farms and the Sound; among them were John R. Jackson, typical -English yeoman, on his prairie, ten miles from the Cowlitz; S.S. -Saunders, on Saunders's Bottom, where now stands the town of Chehalis; -George Washington, a colored man, on the next prairie, the site of -Centralia; Judge Sidney S. Ford on his prairie on the Chehalis River, -below the mouth of the Skookumchuck Creek; W.B. Goodell, B.L. Henness, -and Stephen Hodgdon on Grand Mound Prairie; A.B. Rabbeson and W.W. Plumb -on Mound Prairie. A number of settlers had taken up the prairies about -Olympia, the principal of whom were W.O. Bush, Gabriel Jones, William -Rutledge, and David Kendrick on Bush Prairie; J.N. Low, Andrew J. -Chambers, Nathan Eaton, Stephen D. Ruddell, and Urban E. Hicks on -Chambers's Prairie; David J. Chambers on the prairie of his name. James -McAlister and William Packwood were on the Nisqually Bottom, at the -mouth of the river, just north of which, on the verge of the Nisqually -plains, was situated the Hudson Bay Company post, Fort Nisqually, a -parallelogram of log buildings and stockade, under charge of Dr. W.F. -Tolmie, a warm-hearted and true Scot. Great herds of Spanish cattle, the -property of this company, roamed over the Nisqually plains, little cared -for and more than half wild, and, it is to be feared, occasionally fell -prey to the rifles of the hungry American emigrants. Two miles below -Olympia, on the east side of the bay, was located a Catholic mission -under Fathers Ricard and Blanchet, where were a large building, an -orchard, and a garden. They had made a number of converts among the -Indians. - -Towns, each as yet little more than a "claim" and a name, but each in -the hope and firm belief of its founders destined to future greatness, -were just started at Steilacoom, by Lafayette Balch; at Seattle, by Dr. -D. S. Maynard, H.L. Yesler, and the Dennys; at Port Townsend, by F.W. -Pettygrove and L.B. Hastings; and at Bellingham Bay, by Henry Roder and -Edward Eldridge. - -Save the muddy track from the Cowlitz to Olympia and thence to -Steilacoom, and a few local trails, roads there were none. Communication -was chiefly by water, almost wholly in canoes manned by Indians. The -monthly steamer from San Francisco and a little river steamboat plying -daily between Vancouver and Portland alone vexed with their keels the -mighty Columbia; while it was not until the next year that reckless, -harum-scarum Captain Jack Scranton ran the Major Tompkins, a small black -steamer, once a week around the Sound, and had no rival. Here was this -great wooded country without roads, the unrivaled waterways without -steamers, the adventurous, vigorous white population without laws, -numerous tribes of Indians without treaties, and the Hudson Bay -Company's rights and possessions without settlement. To add to the -difficulties and confusion of the situation, Congress, by the Donation -Acts, held out a standing invitation to the American settlers to seize -and settle upon any land, surveyed or unsurveyed, without waiting to -extinguish the Indian title, or define the lands guaranteed by solemn -treaty to the foreign company, and already the Indians and the Hudson -Bay Company were growing daily more and more restless and indignant at -the encroachments of the pushing settlers upon their choicest spots. -Truly a situation fraught with difficulties and dangers, where -everything was to be done and nothing yet begun. - -It is a great but common mistake to suppose that the early American -settlers of Washington were a set of lawless, rough, and ignorant -borderers. In fact they compare favorably with the early settlers of any -of the States. As a rule they were men of more than average force of -character, vigorous, honest, intelligent, law-abiding, and -patriotic,--men who had brought their families to carve out homes in -the wilderness, and many of them men of education and of standing in -their former abodes. Among them could be found the best blood of New -England, the sturdy and kindly yeomanry of Virginia and Kentucky, and -men from all the States of the Middle West from Ohio to Arkansas. Most -of them had slowly wended their way across the great plains, overcoming -every obstacle, and suffering untold privations; others had come by sea -around Cape Horn, or across the Isthmus. They were all true Americans, -patriotic and brave, and filled with sanguine hopes of, and firm faith -in, the future growth and greatness of the new country which they had -come to make blossom like the rose. Governor Stevens, as has been shown, -at once appreciated the character of these people. - -After the arduous and exposed journey up the Cowlitz by canoe,--where -the Indian crew had to gain foot by foot against the furious current of -the flooded river, oftentimes pulling the frail craft along by the -overhanging bushes,--and over the muddy trail by horseback, Governor -Stevens reached Olympia on November 25, 1853, just five months and -nineteen days since starting from St. Paul. He found here awaiting his -arrival the new territorial secretary, Charles M. Mason, brother to his -old friend Colonel James Mason, of the engineers, who had just come out -by the Isthmus route. Mason was of distinguished appearance and bearing, -with fine dark eyes and hair, fair, frank face, and charming but -unobtrusive manner. He was highly educated, gifted with unusual ability, -and a noble and amiable disposition, and was beloved by all who knew -him. The other territorial officers on the ground were: Edward Lander, -chief justice, and Victor Monroe, associate justice; J.V. Clendenin, -district attorney; J. Patten Anderson, marshal; and Simpson P. Moses, -collector of customs. - -[Illustration: CHARLES H. MASON - _Secretary of Washington Territory_] - -Among the settlers welcoming their new governor were: Edmund Sylvester, -the founder of Olympia; Colonel William Cock, Shirley Ensign, D.R. -Bigelow, George A. Barnes, H.A. Goldsborough, John M. Swan, C.H. Hale, -Judge B.F. Yantis, Judge Gilmore Hayes, John G. Parker, Quincy A. -Brooks, Dr. G.K. Willard, Colonel M. T. Simmons, Captain Clanrick -Crosby, Ira Ward, James Biles, Joseph Cushman, S.W. Percival, Edwin -Marsh, R.M. Walker, Levi and James Offut, J.C. Head, W. Dobbins, Isaac -Hawk, Rev. G.F. Whitworth, Jared S. Hurd, H.R. Woodward, B.F. Brown, and -M. Hurd. - -The arrival of the governor and his party was the great event for the -little town, as well as for the new Territory generally, and warm and -hearty was his greeting by the pioneers. And when shortly afterwards, -December 19, the governor delivered a lecture, giving a description of -his exploration and an exposition of the Northern route, their hopes and -expectations were raised to the highest point, and they already saw in -the mind's eye the iron horse speeding across the plains and through the -mighty forests, and the full-flowing tide of immigration following its -advent. - -Without delay the governor issued his proclamation, as empowered by the -organic act marking out and establishing election districts, appointing -time (January 30) and places for holding the elections, for a delegate -in Congress and members of the legislature, and summoning that body to -meet in Olympia on the 28th of February. - -The Indian service next engaged his attention. He appointed Colonel M.T. -Simmons Indian agent for the Puget Sound Indians, with B.F. Shaw and O. -Cushman as interpreters and assistants, and sent them to visit the -different tribes and bands, to assure them of the protection and -guidance of the Great Father in Washington, to urge them to cultivate -the soil and "follow the white man's road," that is, to adopt the -habits of civilized life; and to impress upon them the necessity of -making treaties, in order to prevent future trouble and secure them -peace and safety. He also appointed A.J. Bolon agent for the Indians -east of the Cascades, and William H. Tappan agent for the coast and -river Indians on the Chehalis and Columbia rivers, Gray's Harbor, and -Shoalwater Bay. - -Governor Stevens deeply commiserated the condition and probable future -of the Indians under his charge, and felt the greatest interest and -concern in their welfare and improvement. How wise, generous, and -beneficent a policy he established in his treaties, with what great -kindness, justice, and firmness he uniformly treated them, will be shown -later in this work. It is enough to say now that the Indians came to -know him as their friend and protector, and to this day hold his memory -in reverence; that the treaties he made and the policy he inaugurated -have remained in force to the present time, and that under them the -Indians of Washington have more fully preserved their rights and -improved their condition than the aborigines of any other State. - -Having thus started the civil government and Indian service, and set the -young men of the exploration hard at work preparing the reports, and, as -already related, dispatched McClellan to run the line from the Sound to -the Snoqualmie Pass, the governor took the Sarah Stone, a small -sailboat, or "plunger," and, accompanied by Mr. George Gibbs, went down -the Sound in person, in order, as he states, "to visit and take a census -of the Indian tribes, learn something of the general character of the -Sound and its harbors, and to visit Vancouver Island and its principal -port, Victoria. - - "In this trip I visited Steilacoom, Seattle, Skagit Head, Penn's - Cove, the mouths of the Skagit and Samish rivers, Bellingham Bay, - passed up the channel De Rosario and down the channel De Haro to - Victoria, and on my return made Port Townsend and several other - points on the western shore of the Sound. We examined the coal mines - back of Seattle and Bellingham Bay, and saw a large body of Indians - of nearly all the tribes. I became greatly impressed with the - important advantages of Seattle, and also with the importance of the - disputed islands." - -In a report to the Secretary of War, written immediately after this -trip, he remarks:-- - - "I was agreeably impressed with Elliott's Bay, on which are the - flourishing towns of Seattle and Alki, and I agree entirely in the - opinion of Captain McClellan that it is the best harbor on the - Sound, and unless the approach to it from the pass should, on a more - minute examination, prove less favorable than to some other point, - which is hardly to be expected, that it is the proper terminus of - the railroad." - -In his reports Seattle is assumed as the terminus on the Sound, and all -the distances measured and calculations of cost, etc., are made with -reference to that point as the western end of the route. - -The above is a provokingly brief and meagre record of this trip, which -occupied the whole month of January, the same month that McClellan, -after balking the Snoqualmie survey, turned back from Camano Island and -abandoned the examination of the lower Sound in consequence of the -inclemency of the weather. The governor's trip could have been no -holiday excursion, in an open sailboat in that stormy, rainy season, and -among the swift tides and fierce gales of the lower Sound. But it was -fruitful in results. He grasped with the acute and discriminating eye of -an engineer the whole system of waters and the several harbors and -points of importance, talked with the principal men of each place and -gleaned all the information they could furnish, and gained a -comprehensive and correct idea of the numbers, distribution, and -character of the Indians. - -Moreover, he met at Victoria Governor Sir James Douglass and the other -officers there of the Hudson Bay Company, and discussed with them their -claims within our borders. He had now visited and personally examined -all but one (Fort Okanogan) of that company's posts within his -territory, Colville, Walla Walla, Vancouver, Cowlitz Farms, and -Nisqually, and had discussed their claims with the officers in charge of -them, and with the chief factor, Sir James Douglass. As the result of -this investigation he made, on his return to Olympia, an exhaustive -report to the Secretary of State, setting forth in detail the actual -holdings and improvements of the company at each point. He estimated -that their value could not exceed $300,000, and recommended that a -commission be appointed to adjudicate the claims, and that such sum be -appropriated by Congress to extinguish them. Secretary Marcy adopted his -views and recommendations, and transmitted them to Congress, and a bill -appointing the commission and making the appropriation passed the Senate -the following session, but failed in the House. These claims remained a -bone of contention between the countries for many years, until finally -Great Britain, by means of a joint commission, and by sticking to the -most extravagant demands with true bulldog tenacity, succeeded in -wringing nearly a million dollars from the United States. - -At the election Columbia Lancaster was chosen delegate in Congress. He -was a lawyer by profession, and a man of ability and education. - -The legislature assembled on the appointed day, and Governor Stevens -delivered his first message. Briefly reviewing the great natural -resources of the Territory and its commercial advantages, with its -unrivaled harbors and location to control in due time the trade of China -and Japan, he recommended the adoption of a code of laws, the -organization of the country east of the Cascades into counties, a -school system with military training in the higher schools, and the -organization of the militia. The latter he declared necessary in view of -their remote situation, compelling them to rely upon themselves in case -of war, for a time at least, and to enable them to draw arms and -ammunition from the general government, which could be issued only to an -organized militia force. He dwelt on the importance of extinguishing the -Indian title and the claims of the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound -Agricultural Companies, and settling the boundary line on British -territory, and recommended them to memorialize Congress in behalf of -these measures. He informed them that, under instructions from the -Secretary of State, he had already notified the foreign Fur Company that -it could not be allowed to trade with Indians within the Territory, and -would be given until July to wind up their affairs. He also urged them -to ask Congress for a surveyor-general and a land office, for more rapid -surveys of public land, so that they might be kept in advance of -settlement; to amend the land laws by facilitating the acquisition of -title, and by placing single women on the same footing with married -women; for a grant of lands for a university; for improved mail service; -for roads to Walla Walla, to Vancouver, and to Bellingham Bay along the -eastern shore of the Sound; and for continuing the geographical and -geological surveys already begun. He boldly advocated the construction -of three railroads across the continent, undoubtedly the first to -foresee the necessity of more than a single line. From this time he -always advocated three transcontinental roads. - -All these recommendations were promptly adopted by the legislature, -except as regarded the militia, concerning which no action was taken; an -unfortunate neglect, which left the people almost defenseless when the -Indian war broke out less than two years later. - -Soon after arriving at Olympia, Governor Stevens writes his friend -Halleck announcing his arrival and the successful achievement of the -exploration. In this letter he expresses the opinion that the waters of -San Francisco Bay and Puget Sound should both have their connections -with the States by railroad. - -He asks Halleck how lands should be donated and managed for the -establishment of a university in Washington Territory, and his views as -to a plan, etc. - -January 9 he writes Joseph Grinnell & Co., of New York, a great -mercantile and shipping and whaling firm, suggesting to them the -establishing of a whaling and fishing depot on one of the harbors of the -lower Sound. - -Halleck writes a cordial letter in reply to the governor's, and gives -him a glimpse "behind the curtain" of California and Southern Democratic -politics, which throws light on Jefferson Davis's action in shutting off -the further exploration of the Northern route. - - "I have by no means lost my interest in the Democratic party, or the - great public questions of the day. The first and most important of - these is the great continental railroad. Present examinations would - seem almost conclusive against Benton's central project. If so, this - road must run from some point in New Mexico to some pass near Los - Angeles, and thence to San Francisco (and San Diego, perhaps). - - "If this southern route should be selected, it would lead to another - northern route, perhaps the one explored by yourself to Puget Sound. - Even if a single road should be adopted on the central line, it must - fork to San Francisco and Puget Sound, the two great termini of the - Pacific coast. - - "The pro-slavery extension party will work very hard against the - North Pacific States, which must of necessity remain free. The first - branch of this project was to call a new convention in California - dividing it into two States, making the southern one a slave State, - with San Diego as the port and terminus of a railroad through Texas. - Circulars and letters to that effect were sent to pro-slavery men in - California, and the attempt made to divide the State, but it - failed. The next move was to acquire Lower California and part of - Sonora and Chihuahua, making Guaymas the terminus, and the newly - acquired territory slave States. Two separate plans were set on foot - for the same object, the Walker 'filibustering' expedition against - Lower California and Sonora, and Gadsden's treaty with Santa Anna. - The former is thus far a most complete and contemptible failure, but - rumor says the latter is likely to be successful, and will be - undoubtedly, if backed with sufficient money. If the territory is - acquired, it will be slave territory, and a most tremendous effort - will be made to run _a_ railroad if not _the_ railroad from Texas to - Guaymas, with a _branch_ to San Francisco." - -Amid all these pressing and engrossing official duties the governor -found time to purchase his future homestead in Olympia, Block 84, and -also a tract of ten acres a little farther back, where Maple Park is now -situated. He also contracted for the purchase of the north half of the -Walker Donation claim, a tract of three hundred and twenty acres -situated a mile and a half south of the town and half way to Tumwater. -All these tracts were then buried in the dense and tall fir forest; but -when the country was cleared, it appeared that the governor had selected -them with unerring judgment, for they are the finest sites in the town -or vicinity. - -During all this time the governor and the officers and scientific men of -the exploration were hard at work on the reports of their operations, -working up the observations, and classifying the collections. As -McClellan, Donelson, Lander, Suckley, Gibbs, Arnold, Tinkham, and Grover -successively reached Olympia, bringing fresh contributions of -information gathered in their trips, each took hold of the work. The -offices of the survey were in two small, one-storied buildings on the -west side of Main Street, between Second and Third, hired of Father -Ricard, and presented a busy scene, filled with desks, tables, -instruments, collections, maps, and papers, among which the young men -were writing and working for dear life. - -Lieutenant Arnold and Dr. Suckley executed the reconnoissances intrusted -to them most satisfactorily. Lieutenant Grover, starting from Fort -Benton in January with his dog-train, crossed the main range to the -Bitter Root valley, finding only eight inches of snow, and thence -continued with horses down Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille Lake and to the -Dalles. On reaching Vancouver the governor dispatched an express to -Lieutenant Mullan by Spokane Garry, who had accompanied him to that -point, and in January he sent wagonmaster Higgins with a second express -to the same point. Thus, by these expresses going and returning, he had -the route between the Bitter Root valley and Olympia traversed four -times in addition to Grover's trip. Lieutenant Mullan crossed the main -continental divide six times that winter, extending his trips to Fort -Hall, on the upper Snake River, and traveling nearly a thousand miles. -The explorations made by the young officers, including Tinkham and Doty, -were very remarkable and valuable, and were attended at times with great -exertions and privations, and full accounts of them are given in the -final report. - -Thus, by his winter posts and parties, the governor was solving, in the -most complete and satisfactory manner, the questions of mountain snows -and climates. From Olympia he reported to Secretary of War Davis the -results of the explorations, and particularly on these points. He urged -that the posts be continued, and a closer examination made of the more -favorable mountain passes, and that lines be surveyed from the Northern -route to Great Salt Lake and to San Francisco. - -At this juncture Governor Stevens received a curt and peremptory order -from Secretary Davis, disapproving his arrangements, and ordering him to -disband the winter parties and bring his operations to a close. -Acknowledging the receipt of the order, February 13, he declares that it -shall be promptly obeyed, and continues:-- - - "But I earnestly submit to the department the importance of the - continuation of these surveys, and indulge the hope that Congress - will make liberal appropriations, both in a deficiency bill and in - the general appropriation bill, in order that the field now so well - entered upon may be fully occupied. - - "I will respectfully call the attention of the department to the - peculiar circumstances of my exploration, which will, it seems to - me, explain the exceeding of the appropriation, with every desire - and effort on my part so to arrange the scale and conduct it as not - to involve a deficiency. The field was almost totally new, rendering - it impossible to form an estimate. Much work of reconnoissance had - to be done, which had previously been done for all the other routes, - before a direction could be given to the railroad examinations and - estimates proper. Unforeseen expenses in the way of presents, etc., - had to be incurred to conciliate the Indian tribes, for our route - was the only one, so far as I was informed, that at the time was - deemed particularly dangerous; and the investigation of the question - of snow was a vital and fundamental one, essential to making any - reliable report at all, and included within the express requirements - of the original instructions. I deeply regretted the deficiency - which I found impending at Fort Benton, and I took at that place - that course which I believed Congress and the department would have - taken under the circumstances." - -Moreover, to provide funds indispensable for the immediate needs of the -survey, the governor had drawn on Corcoran and Riggs, government bankers -in Washington, to the amount of $16,000, and these drafts all went to -protest. - -But the Secretary's order arrived too late to frustrate Governor -Stevens's thoroughgoing measures for determining the snow question. The -problem was solved before the work of the winter parties could be -arrested, and this most important point was clearly and satisfactorily -set forth in the report. The much-feared mountain snows were found to be -greatly exaggerated, and to present no real obstacle to the operation of -railroads. In this respect the report has been fully confirmed by -subsequent experience, and in fact less difficulty has been encountered -from snow in the mountains than on the plains of Dakota. - -He decided, therefore, to hasten to Washington the earliest moment his -threefold duties of the governorship, Indian service, and the -exploration would admit of, filled with the fixed determination to -prevent the discontinuance of the exploration, to secure the payment of -the protested drafts, and to enlighten the government as to the -necessity of the Blackfoot council, and of extinguishing the Indian -title within his own Territory. - -To justify his going without leave first obtained, the legislature -passed a joint resolution that "no disadvantage would result to the -Territory should the governor visit Washington, if, in his judgment, the -interests of the Northern Pacific Railroad survey could thereby be -promoted." - - - - - CHAPTER XXIII - - RETURN TO WASHINGTON.--REPORT OF EXPLORATION - - -Governor Stevens left Olympia on March 26, and, proceeding by way of the -Cowlitz to the Columbia, and by steamer down the coast, reached San -Francisco early in April. Here he found a group of his old friends and -brother officers, including Mason, Halleck, and Folsom, and how warmly -he was received by them, and how interesting they found his accounts of -the exploration, the Indians, and the many wild and new scenes he had -passed through, may be imagined. His arrival attracted much public -attention; his exploration was deemed a very important and remarkable -one, and one conducted with remarkable ability and success; and in Music -Hall, on Bush Street, April 13, before a crowded audience, and -introduced by Mayor Garrison, he gave an able address upon the Northern -route. In this address he boldly advocated three railroads across the -continent, declaring that the subject of internal communications was too -great to be treated from a sectional point of view. He demonstrated the -favorable character of the route and country he had explored, the -navigability of the upper Columbia and Missouri, and the little -obstruction from snows. The impression made by this address is reflected -in the editorial of the San Francisco "Herald:"-- - - "Of all the surveys ordered by the general government at Washington - with a view to the selection of a route for a railroad across the - continent, that intrusted to Governor Stevens is by far the most - satisfactory. He took the field in June last, having left the - Mississippi River on the 15th of that month, and, moving steadily - westward,--throwing out parties on the right and left of his line, - surveying every stream of any consequence, exploring every pass - again and again,--he has accomplished in that time the survey of a - belt extending two thousand miles from east to west, and from one - hundred and fifty to two hundred miles from north to south. In the - Rocky Mountains his explorations have extended over four hundred - miles from north to south, and in the Cascade Mountains over two - hundred and fifty miles. While the main work of reconnoissance was - going on, the auxiliary departments of geology, natural history, - botany, etc., were prosecuted with vigor and success. The results - obtained in so short a space of time are, as far as we are aware, - unparalleled. - - "The route thus occupied by Governor Stevens and his party is the - route of the two great rivers across the continent, the Missouri and - Columbia. Their tributaries interlock; the whole mountain range is - broken down into spurs and valleys, and no obstruction exists from - snow. The whole route is eminently practicable. The highest grade - will be fifty feet to the mile. The summit level of the road will be - about five thousand feet above the sea. There will be but one - tunnel. The snows will be less than in the New England States. The - Missouri River has been surveyed, and found to be navigable for - steamers to the Falls, about seven hundred miles from Puget Sound, - and five hundred miles to the point where the main Columbia is first - reached by railroad from the East. This five hundred miles is in - part along Clark's Fork, affording one hundred miles navigable for - steamers. - - "The results of the survey may be summed up as follows: Three lines - run from the Mississippi River to the Rocky Mountains; nine passes - explored in the Rocky Mountains; three lines run from the Rocky - Mountains to the Columbia River and Puget Sound; the Cascades - explored from the Columbia to the 49th parallel; Puget Sound - examined with reference to a railroad depot; the fact that not the - slightest obstruction will occur from snow established beyond - controversy." - -After a short stay in San Francisco, Governor Stevens took the steamer -for the Isthmus, and reached New York in May, and the next morning had -a joyful reunion with his wife and little girls in Newport. After his -severe and long-continued labors, the sea voyage compelled him to a -much-needed rest. On such voyages he threw off his wonted intense, high -pressure mood of work, and, with mind relaxed, enjoyed the soothing -influence of old Neptune. - -He proceeded immediately to Washington with his family, except his son, -who was at school at Phillips Academy in Andover, and who joined him -later at the summer vacation, and took rooms at the National Hotel on -Pennsylvania Avenue. A great deal was still to be done to complete the -report of the exploration, and with Tinkham, Osgood, and other -assistants he drove it with his accustomed vigor. On June 30 he -submitted it to the department, the first report of all the routes, -although it covered the greatest field, and was by far the most -comprehensive and exhaustive. - -Secretary Davis, recognizing that in his measures for prosecuting the -survey Governor Stevens was actuated solely by zeal for the public -service, submitted an estimate to cover the deficiency, which was duly -appropriated, and the protested drafts were honored. General Hunt gives -the following incident, which shows the confidence Governor Stevens's -old friends had in his ability to carry his points:-- - - "I followed him in the thorough work he made of the Northern Pacific - Railway survey,--of his row with Jeff Davis for overrunning in his - expenditures the amount assigned him, and so preventing Jeff's - designs of defeating that road. In 1854 I had, at Fort Monroe, - occasion to describe your father to old Major Holmes, a classmate of - Jeff. He went to Washington, and on his return told me, 'Your friend - Stevens is ruined. Davis refuses to recommend to Congress to make - good the expenditures as contrary to orders. It will ruin Stevens.' - 'Wait awhile,' said I; 'I see by the last "Union" that Stevens has - just arrived en route to Washington at Panama. He will leave Jeff - _nowhere!_' Soon after he arrived in Washington, was followed by an - appropriation covering all his bills, and so Jeff failed all round." - -Secretary Davis was in fact astonished and deeply disappointed at the -results of the survey, and the very favorable picture of the Northern -route and country given in Governor Stevens's report. A leader among the -Southern public men, who were so soon to bring on the great rebellion, -of which he was to be the official head, he had set his heart upon the -Southern route, and was anxious to establish its superiority to all -others and secure its adoption as the national route, in order to -aggrandize his own section. He could ill brook, therefore, Governor -Stevens's clear and vivid description of the Northern route, showing its -great superiority in soil and climate, the easy grades, absence of snow, -and accessibility by inland river navigation. He chose to consider the -accounts overdrawn as the best way of sustaining his chosen route. In -his report to Congress, transmitting the surveys of the several routes, -he took great pains to belittle the results of Governor Stevens's labors -and disparage the Northern route. In his comparison of routes, he -arbitrarily increased the governor's estimate of cost from $117,121,000 -to $150,871,000, or nearly $38,000,000; magnified the physical -difficulties; condemned the agricultural resources; declared that "the -country west of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific slope may likewise be -described as one of general sterility," and that "the severely cold -character of the climate throughout the whole route, except the portion -west of the Cascade Mountains, is one of its unfavorable features." He -ignored the governor's statements, and Tinkham's reconnoissance as to -the snow in the Snoqualmie Pass, and the practicability of the latter, -and, quoting McClellan with approval, declared that "the snow is twenty -feet deep, the pass barely practicable, and the information now -possessed is sufficient to decide against this route." It is significant -that he pays a warm compliment to McClellan, remarking that "his -examination presents a reconnoissance of great value, and, though -performed under adverse circumstances, exhibits all the information -necessary to determine the practicability of this portion of the route." -And this of an officer who had consumed a whole month in moving one -hundred and eighty miles; lay another month in camp in the Yakima -valley, making only the most cursory examinations; found the passes -non-existent, or "impracticable;" reported the snow twenty to -twenty-five feet deep on the credit of Indians; ignobly quailed at -inclement weather and snows, which other men bravely faced and overcame; -and generally condemned the country, and vilified the hardy pioneers. In -sober truth McClellan found credit in the eyes of the Secretary, not for -what he accomplished, but for what he failed to accomplish, for his -unfavorable and condemnatory report on the route and the country, which -was precisely the kind of testimony the Secretary wanted. The country, -stigmatized as one of "general sterility," and which Governor Stevens -pronounced a fine, arable region of great fertility, is now one of the -great wheat-fields of the country, yielding twenty to thirty million -bushels a year. - -Moreover, Mr. Davis manifested a dissatisfied and fault-finding spirit -towards the governor. On one occasion, when the latter was calling on -him, and asking his attention to some matter of importance connected -with the survey, Davis interrupted him with marked impatience, and -intimated that he had no time to hear him. "I do not come here to talk -with Jefferson Davis," exclaimed the governor with dignity, "but to -confer with the Secretary of War upon the public business intrusted to -my charge, and I demand his attention." The Secretary at once gave him -full and considerate hearing until the matter was fully gone into, and -as the governor took his leave, followed him to the door, and frankly -apologized for his momentary rudeness. Jefferson Davis was not without -generous and magnanimous traits, and appreciated the earnest and sincere -character of his caller. But he put a stop to further work on the -Northern route, prevented any more appropriations for it, and kept up -his fight against it. Some time afterwards, in speaking of the route to -a mutual friend,[8] he declared: "Governor Stevens is a man of great -ability, and of upright and high-toned character, but he has entirely -misconceived and exaggerated the agricultural resources of the Northern -route. The fact is, he has no knowledge of agricultural soils or -conditions." When this was repeated to the governor he remarked: -"Indeed, perhaps Mr. Davis does not know that I was brought up on a farm -until my seventeenth year." - -But Governor Stevens indulged in no complaints at this unworthy -treatment. He knew that the information given in his report was too well -founded and abundant to be refuted by mere official rancor. Despite the -deprivation of funds, he continued the work of exploration, survey, and -observation for the next three years, making free use of the Indian -agents and volunteer troops under his command, and unsparing in his own -personal exertions, and on February 7, 1859, submitted to the War -Department "My final report of the explorations made by me and under my -direction in the years 1853, 1854, and 1855, to determine the -practicability of the Northern route for a railroad to the Pacific." -This report, published by order of Congress in two large quarto volumes, -as Parts I. and II., vol. xii., Pacific Railroad Reports, contains over -eight hundred pages, with plates, tables, and views, and most fully -sustains the earlier report, besides adding an immense amount of new -information. And this was Governor Stevens's answer to Secretary Davis. - -But the governor found the sultry summer in Washington a very trying -one, in cramped quarters, overburdened with the voluminous data and -details of the report, and subject to many annoyances. Unfortunately, -the meteorological and astronomical observations, while in care of -Lieutenant Donelson, were lost, presumably on the Isthmus, by the -carelessness of the express company, and could not be recovered, -although that officer returned to San Francisco expressly in search of -them, and this loss caused serious embarrassment. The governor found, -too, that some of the scientific corps were proposing to publish as -their own separate work the materials gathered as members of the -exploration, and had to adopt decided and severe measures to prevent the -barefaced attempt. During great part of July he was seriously ill, and -incapacitated from work. - -In addition to all these labors and cares, he obtained the sanction of -the government for holding the Blackfoot council he had so much at -heart, for which he was appointed a commissioner, and allotted $10,000 -for assembling and bringing the western Indians to Fort Benton. His -views and recommendations in regard to treating with the Indians of -Washington Territory, and purchasing their lands, were also adopted, and -he was appointed the commissioner to make such treaties. As already -stated, his recommendations in regard to the claims of the Hudson Bay -Company were adopted by the Secretary of State. Congress appropriated -$30,000 for a wagon-road from Fort Benton to Walla Walla, a matter which -the governor strenuously urged; and also amended the land laws, created -the office of surveyor-general, and made appropriations for universal -surveys and mail service. To all these matters "Governor Stevens -addressed himself with the energy, ability, and straightforwardness -which were his characteristics, supplementing the feebler efforts of -Lancaster, and, with Lane of Oregon, coming to the rescue of the most -important bills for Washington, and really doing the work of the -delegate."[9] Notwithstanding Secretary Davis's attitude on the Northern -route, Governor Stevens seems to have lost none of his influence with -the administration. When about to return to the Pacific coast, President -Pierce invited him to write him personally and frequently. - -FOOTNOTES: - - [8] Major George T. Clark. - - [9] Bancroft's _Pacific States_, vol. xxvi. p. 88. - - - - - CHAPTER XXIV - - CROSSING THE ISTHMUS - - -Governor Stevens, with his family, consisting of his wife, four -children, the two youngest being only two and four years old -respectively, and the nurse Ellen, a bonny young Irish woman, sailed -from New York, September 20, 1854, en route for his far Western home. -The vessel was packed full, with thirteen hundred passengers. The food -was execrable, meats and poultry tainted and almost uneatable. Ice was -charged extra, twenty-five cents a pound. The second cabin table rivaled -at times a scene from Bedlam. The hungry passengers would often hurl the -spoiled chickens overboard amid loud complaints, laughter, and the -imitated crowing and cackle of cocks and hens. Christy's minstrels were -on board, bound to San Francisco,--a reckless, noisy, drinking crew, but -fine performers, both instrumental and vocal, and always ready and -willing to entertain the passengers with their pleasing melodies. The -best state-rooms were allotted the governor and family, with seats next -the captain at table, but the younger children had to sit at the second -table. The ship put in at Havana for a day, where the family enjoyed a -delicious repast of broiled birds on toast and guava jelly at the -Dominica restaurant, and viewed the cathedral and tomb of Columbus. -Crossing the Caribbean sea in hot and sultry weather, they arrived at -Aspinwall on the 29th. - -This place was squalid, dreary, and repulsive. Low, flat, swampy morass, -some filled-in land; great pools of dirty, green, stagnant water; a -frail, rickety wharf, which the ship hardly dared touch lest it fall -over; a railroad track along the shore; a hundred yards back, a number -of large, cheap-built wooden houses, like overgrown tenement houses, -unpainted and dilapidated; the street a bed of mud, littered with broken -boards and refuse lumber and piles of rubbish; black pigs roaming and -rooting about; many rascally and worthless-looking natives, in whom the -negro predominated,--the whole thoroughly wet down by heavy, drenching, -tropical showers,--such was Aspinwall, as the disappointed passengers -landed, and sought the shelter of the buildings supposed to be hotels, -but where almost everything was lacking except extortionate charges. - -After a comfortless night and miserable breakfast, the party embarked on -the cars, and proceeded about twenty miles to the "Summit," which was -half way to Panama, and as far as the road then extended, and which was -reached about noon, and learned that the rest of the way across had to -be made on horse or mule back. There were no animals ready, but it was -announced that the party would have to wait until the next morning, when -plenty of mules would be provided. Some railroad sheds, a few native -huts, and a huge pavilion, consisting of an immense pyramidal thatched -roof surmounting low sides mostly open, comprised the only shelters, and -into them the passengers flocked. - -The great pavilion belonged to a huge, jet black Jamaica negro, named -Carusi, and was not partitioned off, consisting of nothing indeed but -the earthen floor and the roof above it, with the low sides. At night -this rude structure was thronged with the weary passengers. Delicate -ladies and children, rough men, and people of every kind and condition -fairly covered the floor, or rather ground, seeking rest as best they -could; while in the centre of the apartment, in a big, old-fashioned, -four-poster bed, lay the gigantic Carusi side by side with his fat wife, -their ebony faces contrasting with the white pillows and sheets. The -minstrels improved the occasion with banjo and song until late at night, -when some of them, becoming drunk, began disturbing the company with -oaths and obscene language, but Governor Stevens rebuked them in such -stern and minatory manner that they were cowed, and relapsed into -silence. - -The expected mules began arriving in small bands under charge of natives -about noon the next day, and with much bargaining and contention the -passengers secured their mounts, and started off in groups. The governor -employed two natives to carry the two youngest children, who were mere -babies, on their backs in chairs, and set off followed by the rest of -the family mounted each on a mule. It soon began to rain in torrents. In -an hour it as suddenly ceased, and the sun came out, hot and sultry, -soon to be followed by another downpour, and so deluge and sunshine -alternated all day. After riding two hours over narrow, muddy trails, -and up and down steep though short hills, where the mules had trodden -the clay into regular steps, they reached the Chagres River, and found -all the passengers who had preceded them collected on the bank, gazing -in dismay on the raging yellow flood, for the stream was up under the -tremendous rains, and fearing to essay its passage. After viewing the -river carefully, the governor forced his mule into it, and, guiding him -diagonally across, safely made the opposite bank. Then, returning, he -led the way across again, his little daughter Sue, only eight years old, -close behind on her mule, then the rest of the family, and after them -followed all the waiting crowd. It was dark when they reached Panama, -and found shelter in an old cloistered stone convent, now used as a -hotel, exchanged their wet clothes for dry purchased at the nearest -shop, and obtained much-needed food and rest. But nothing was seen or -heard of the natives with the two babies, since they stole off on a -footpath soon after starting, and late in the evening the governor -mounted a fresh animal, and with a guide went back to find them, -spending the greater part of the night in a vain search. At breakfast -the next morning the natives brought in the children, safe and well and -perfectly contented. They had taken the little ones to their huts on -account of the heavy rains, where the native women fed them and put them -to bed, dried their clothes, and sent them in the next morning, safe and -sound. - -During the day the passengers were taken out in boats to the steamer -Golden Age, which was anchored in the bay three miles from the town. She -was a larger and more commodious ship than the other. The voyage up the -coast began the next morning. A stop of several hours was made in the -land-locked harbor of Acapulco, which the governor improved by taking -his family ashore, and treating them to a dinner of fried chicken at a -small posada on the old and quaint paved main street. The Panama fever -soon made its dreaded appearance among the passengers, owing to their -exposure on the Isthmus; many fell sick, and a considerable number died -and were buried at sea. The weather was fine, the sea calm and smooth -save for the long rollers of the Pacific, and the voyage would have been -an enjoyable one had it not been for the fearful fever and the crowded -condition of the vessel. On the fourteenth day she entered the Golden -Gate, and rested in the welcome port of San Francisco. - -The governor took rooms at the Oriental Hotel. His wife and the three -little girls were all seized with the fever on the ship, and their -condition was serious when they landed. Doctors Hitchcock and Hammond, -old army friends of the governor, were unremitting in their attentions, -and after several weeks' care brought the sufferers past the danger -point, all except the little four-year-old Maude. Her case they at -length pronounced hopeless. But her father would not give her up. He had -a hot bath administered as a last resort, and sat by her bedside hour -after hour, giving liquid nourishment drop by drop, and at last she -passed the crisis and began to recover. By all this sickness they were -forced to remain in the city over a month; but in the society of his old -friends, and amid the bright, vigorous men and bustling scenes of the -new-born metropolis, the time passed rapidly and well improved. Folsom, -a man of wealth, placed his fine carriage and horses at Mrs. Stevens's -disposal. Halleck would have long talks with the governor. Dr. Gwin and -his family, old friends and neighbors, met them with real Southern -cordiality. - -One incident is worth relating, because it materially affected -subsequent events, as the governor believed. A number of officers and -other gentlemen were conversing together at the hotel one evening, among -whom was General John E. Wool, then commanding the United States forces -on the Pacific coast. The talk turned on the battle of Buena Vista, and -General Wool loudly claimed for himself all the credit for that battle, -disparaging in an offensive manner General Taylor and the part he took -in it. At length Governor Stevens, whose strong sense of justice was -outraged by the boastful and unfair tirade, spoke up and said: "General -Wool, we all know the brilliant part you bore in the battle, but we all -know and history will record that General Taylor fought and won the -battle of Buena Vista."[10] Wool, although visibly offended, made no -reply to this rebuke, but it rankled and caused a bitter animosity, -which subsequently found vent in hostile speech and action. - -The voyage up the coast was made without special incident; they crossed -the bar, steamed up the Columbia, and landed at Vancouver early in -November. Here they remained a fortnight, the guests of Captain Brent, -the quartermaster, in order to enable the sick members to gain strength -sufficiently to stand the hard trip to the Sound. After this brief stay -the governor took his family on a little steamboat to Portland, where -they spent the night. The town then consisted only of a string of small -wooden buildings along the river-bank. The street, or road, was a -perfect quagmire of mud-holes. Single planks laid along irregularly, -with many intervals, furnished the only sidewalks. The next morning they -embarked on a steamer and went down the river to Rainier, where they -landed. This place consisted of a wharf and a sawmill. It was called -Rainier, it was said, by way of a joke, because it rained here all the -time; but doubtless it was named after Mount Rainier, which was named by -Admiral Vancouver after a lord of the British admiralty. The party took -canoes, manned by Indians, the same afternoon, crossed the Columbia, and -paddled a few miles up the Cowlitz to Monticello, where they spent the -night. At daylight the next morning the governor and family embarked in -one large canoe, while the trunks and baggage followed in another, and -pushed upstream against a swift current. There were in the canoe the -governor, his wife and four children, the nurse, and a crew of four -Indians, two at each end. It was a dark, drizzling day, with frequent -showers. The passengers sat upon the bottom of the canoe upon plenty of -Indian mats, and well wrapped in blankets, and, except for the -constrained and irksome position, were fairly comfortable. The Indians, -urged by promise of extra pay, paddled vigorously. At the rapids (and -it seemed that nearly all the stream was in rapids) they laid aside -their paddles, and, standing up, forced the canoe ahead with poles, -which they wielded with great skill and vigor. All day long they paddled -and poled with unabated energy, now paddling where they could take -advantage of an eddy or stretch of back water, now forcing the canoe up -swift rapids, gaining inch by inch. It was after dark when they reached -Cowlitz Landing, thirty miles above Monticello, and found shelter for -the night at the hospitable inn kept by Dr. and Mrs. U.G. Warbass. - -Writes Mrs. Stevens of this trip:-- - - "We were placed in the canoe with great care, so as to balance it - evenly, as it was frail and upset easily. At first the novelty, - motion, and watching our Indians paddle so deftly, then seize their - poles and push along over shallow places, keeping up a low, sweet - singing as they glided along, was amusing. As we were sitting flat - on the bottom of the canoe, the position became irksome and painful. - We were all day long on this Cowlitz River. At night I could not - stand on my feet for some time after landing. We walked ankle-deep - in the mud to a small log-house, where we had a good meal. Here we - found a number of rough, dirty-looking men, with pantaloons tucked - inside their boots, and so much hair upon their heads and faces they - all looked alike. After tea we were shown a room to sleep in, full - of beds, which were for the women. I was so worn out with this novel - way of traveling that I laid down on a narrow strip of bed, not - undressed, all my family alongside on the same bed. The governor sat - on a stool near by, and, strange to say, slept sound through the - long, dismal night. He had been shown his bed up through a hole on - top of the shanty. He said one look was sufficient. Men were strewn - as thick as possible on the floor in their blankets. The steam - generated from their wet clothes, boots, and blankets was stifling. - One small hole cut through the roof was the only ventilation. - - "As soon as breakfast was over the next morning, we mounted into a - wagon without springs and proceeded on our journey. The governor - took M. in his arms to keep her from being jolted. There surely were - no worse roads to be found anywhere in the world than this. The - horses went deep in the mud every step; the wheels sank to the hub, - and often had to be pried up. We forded rivers, the water coming - above our ankles in the wagon. Many big, deep holes they would jump - over, making the horses run quick, when the wagon would jump across, - shaking us up fearfully. In one of these holes our horses fell down, - and we stuck fast in the mud. We were taken from the wagon by men of - our party plunging up to their knees in the mud, and carrying us out - by sheer force of their strength. After seating us upon a fallen - log, the horses were with difficulty extricated from the mud. After - another long day's tiresome travel we stopped at a log-house for the - night. Upon entering from the porch we found a big room, with a wood - fire filling up one side, blazing and crackling, low chairs in - front; in the centre of the room was a table with a clean cloth on - it, and a repast of well-cooked food, relishing and abundant, was - placed upon it, to which we did ample justice. Our host was an - Englishman, a farmer, who was getting on well, a genial, hospitable - man. His wife was a superior woman. She had crossed the plains with - her first husband. On the journey they were surrounded by Indians. - He was killed. She was taken prisoner by these savages, and after - passing through untold suffering she managed to make her escape, and - after walking hundreds of miles, living upon berries by the way, she - came into the Dalles, a forlorn, starved woman, almost destitute of - clothing, with her boy ten years of age. It was here our host met - her and offered shelter to her child and herself, which she gladly - accepted, and finally became his wife. She was a fine-looking woman - and a thorough housekeeper, but had the saddest expression on her - face. At night she took us across the yard into another log-house, - where we found a bright fire burning on the hearth, and nice, clean - beds. I felt like staying in this comfortable shelter, hearing the - rain patter on the roof, until the rainy season was over, at least." - -The host referred to was John R. Jackson. His farm was only ten miles -from Cowlitz Landing, but the roads were in such wretched state that a -whole day was consumed in traveling this short distance. - -After a cheerful breakfast the next morning, the journey was resumed. -George W. Stevens and several other gentlemen came out to meet the -governor and family, and escorted them to Olympia. The governor mounted -his horse Charlie, which he purchased of the Red River half-breeds, and -which was brought out to him. This was a great, powerful gray charger, -of high spirit, and able to cover twelve miles an hour in a swinging -trot without distress. It was another rainy, drizzling day. The road was -almost impassable. At Saunders's Bottom, where the town of Chehalis now -stands, the mud was knee-deep for two miles, terribly wearing on the -animals. At length, after fording the Skookumchuck at its mouth, and -traversing an extensive prairie, the wet, tired, and bedraggled party -reached the log-house of Judge Sidney S. Ford, and found hospitable -shelter for the night, having traveled about twenty-five miles that day. - -The next day the party reached Olympia late in the afternoon, after a -thirty miles' journey over much better and pleasanter roads, traversing -prairies over half the distance, including Grand Mound, Little Mound, -and Bush's prairies. It was a dreary, dark, December day. It had rained -considerably. The road from Tumwater to Olympia was ankle-deep in mud, -and thridded a dense forest with a narrow track. With expectations -raised at the idea of seeing the capital and chief town of the -Territory, the weary travelers toiled up a small hill in the edge of the -timber, reached the summit, and eagerly looked to see the future -metropolis. Their hearts sank with bitter disappointment as they -surveyed the dismal and forlorn scene before them. A low, flat neck of -land, running into the bay, down it stretched the narrow, muddy track, -winding among the stumps which stood thickly on either side; twenty -small wooden houses bordered the road, while back of them on the left -and next the shore were a number of Indian lodges, with canoes drawn up -on the beach, and Indians and dogs lounging about. The little hill -mentioned is where now stands the Masonic Building, opposite the Olympia -Hotel. The site of the Indian camp is now Columbia Street, between Third -and Fourth. There were only one or two buildings above, or south of, -Sixth Street. The public square was a tangle of fallen timber. Main -Street terminated in Giddings's Wharf, which was left high and dry at -low tide. - -Mrs. Stevens continues her account as follows:-- - - "At night we were told, on ascending a hill, 'There is Olympia.' - Below us, in the deep mud, were a few low, wooden houses, at the - head of Puget Sound. My heart sank, for the first time in my life, - at the prospect. After ploughing through the mud, we stopped at the - principal hotel, to stay until our house was ready for us. As we - went upstairs there were a number of people standing about to see - the governor and his family. I was very much annoyed at their - staring and their remarks, which they made audibly, and hastened to - get in some private room, where I could make myself better prepared - for an inspection. Being out in rains for many days had not improved - our appearance or clothes. But there seemed no rest for the weary. - Upon being ushered into the public parlor I found people from far - and near had been invited to inspect us. The room was full. The sick - child was cross, and took no notice of anything that was said to - her. One of the women saying aloud, 'What a cross brat that is!' I - could stand it no longer, but opened a door and went into a large - dancing-hall, and soon after, when the governor came to look me up, - I was breaking my heart over the forlorn situation I found myself - in,--cold, wet, uncomfortable, no fire, shaking with chills. What a - prospect! How I longed to find myself back in my childhood's home, - among good friends and relatives! Just then we were told we were - expected across the street. The governor had his office there, and - had us taken directly there. It was a happy change. We went into a - large, cheerful room, with the beds on the floor, a bright fire - burning, book-cases filled with books smiling upon us. We soon had a - good repast, and felt comfortable at last. In a few days we were at - housekeeping, very pleasant indeed, all picking up in health, and - good friends around us. - - "Many of the people called on me. I found them pleasant and - agreeable people; many of them were well-educated and interesting - young ladies who had come here with their husbands, government - officials, and who had given up their city homes to live in this - unknown land, surrounded by Indians and dense forests. - - "I remained three years at Olympia, a great part of the time living - alone with the children, the governor being away in all parts of the - Territory, making treaties with the Indians, planning and arranging - the settlement of the country. There was a pleasant company of - officers, with their wives, stationed at Steilacoom, twenty miles - from Olympia, with whom I became acquainted, and had visits from and - visited. Naval ships came up Puget Sound with agreeable officers on - board. I had a horse to ride on horseback across the lovely - prairies. Almost daily I took a ride about the picturesque, - beautiful country, with the rich, dense forests and snowy mountains, - green little prairies skirted by timber, lakes of deep, clear water, - all of which was new to me, affording great pleasure in exploring - Indian trails and country, which was completely new. I also had a - boat built, in which I made excursions down the Sound. About two - miles down there was a Catholic mission, a large, dark house or - monastery, surrounded by cultivated land, a fine garden in front - filled with flowers, bordered on one side, next the water, with - immense bushes of wall-flowers in bloom; the fragrance, resembling - the sweet English violet, filling the air with its delicious odor. - Father Ricard, the venerable head of this house, was from Paris. He - had lived in this place more than twenty years. He had with him - Father Blanchet, a short, thickset man, who managed everything - pertaining to the temporal comfort of the mission. Under him were - servants who were employed in various ways, baking, cooking, - digging, and planting. Their fruit was excellent and a great rarity, - as there was but one more orchard in the whole country. There was a - large number of Flatheads settled about them, who had been taught to - count their beads, say prayers, and were good Catholics in all - outward observances; chanted the morning and evening prayers, which - they sang in their own language in a low, sweet strain, which, the - first time I heard it, sitting in my boat at sunset, was impressive - and solemn. We went often to visit Father Ricard, who was a highly - educated man, who seemed to enjoy having some one to converse with - in his own language. He said the Canadians used such bad French." - -Mrs. Stevens was still suffering from the Panama fever, and it was a -year before she and little Maude recovered from it. The new quarters -consisted of two long, one-story wooden buildings, one room wide, little -more than sheds, hired of Father Ricard at $900 a year. They were -cheaply built, without plastering, but lined inside with cotton cloth. -There was a narrow passageway between them, from which doors gave access -to the different rooms. In rear was a large yard, extending to the -beach, upon which a gate in the rear fence opened, and where a boat was -kept. The Indian camp began at the corner of the yard. The governor had -secured two men servants, Agnew as cook, and W.F. Seely, man of all -work. The latter was a lusty young Irishman, strong as a bull and quick -as a cat, witty, boastful, brave, and devoted to the governor and his -family. He was a member of the exploring party, where he had fought and -beaten all the pugilistic heroes up to the wagon-master, C.P. Higgins, -by whom he had been handsomely vanquished, and whom he regarded ever -after with great admiration and esteem. - -The family soon felt at home in the new abode, amid the novel scenes and -experiences, and cheered by new and old friends. George Stevens, Mason, -and Lieutenant Arnold came in and out like brothers. There were Evans -and Kendall, who came with the exploration; Major H. A. Goldsborough, -George Gibbs, Colonel Simmons, Frank Shaw, and Orrington Cushman, known -as "Old Cush," with his great red beard, a great favorite with children, -and liked and trusted by both whites and Indians. Major James Tilton, -the surveyor-general, arrived with his family after a voyage around the -Horn,--a man of soldierly bearing and aristocratic tastes, who was to -render valuable service. Captain J. Cain also arrived, as Indian -agent,--a typical Indiana politician, but a man of parts and integrity -and public spirit, and a true friend. - -The second legislature met on December 4, and the governor on the 5th -delivered his message in person. - -After acknowledging the consideration shown him as their executive, and -congratulating them on the flattering prospects of the Territory, he -recommended them to memorialize Congress for roads, mail service, -steamer lines, etc., and other needs, and mentioned with regret the -failure of Congress to provide for objects for which he had earnestly -striven, viz., the extinction of the Hudson Bay Company's claims, the -running of the northern boundary line, and a geological survey of the -coal measures. He urged the organization of an effective militia, -referring to the danger of Indian hostilities, his recommendation to the -first legislature, and to the fact that the government had refused his -recent applications for arms because the militia was not organized. He -summed up the results of his exploration in saying: "Beautiful prairies -and delightful valleys, easy passes practicable at all seasons of the -year, have taken the place of savage deserts and mountain defiles -impracticable half the year from snow.... The more the country is -examined, the better it develops." - -In closing he invoked their support of his efforts in behalf of the -Indians:-- - - "I will indulge the hope that the same spirit of concord and exalted - patriotism, which has thus far marked our political existence, will - continue to the end. Particularly do I invoke that spirit in - reference to our Indian relations. I believe the time has now come - for their final settlement. In view of the important duties which - have been assigned to me, I throw myself unreservedly upon the - people of the Territory, not doubting that they will extend to me a - hearty and generous support in my efforts to arrange on a permanent - basis the future of the Indians of this Territory." - -Referring to the military road across the Nahchess Pass, he said:-- - - "It would be a great benefit to those traveling this road should the - legislature take some step toward sowing with grass-seed the small - prairie known as the Bare Prairie, situated a little below the mouth - of Green River, as also the sides of the mountain known as La Tęte. - These points are intermediate in a long distance destitute of grass, - and are almost necessarily stopping-places on the march. A very - small sum would cover the expense of planting them, and the - advantage would be incalculable." - -This humane and sensible suggestion was turned into ridicule and -defeated by one of those wiseacres, strong in their own conceit and -ignorance, that infest most assemblies, who cried out, "Governor Stevens -needn't try to make grass grow where God Almighty didn't make it grow." - -There was great jealousy on the part of the settlers of the far-reaching -claims of the Hudson Bay Company, and under the influence of this -feeling the council requested the governor to communicate any -information he had as to the manner in which Congress arrived at the -estimated amount of $300,000 as the value of such claims. The attentions -paid him by the officers of that company, in their open efforts to gain -his goodwill and support, were well known, and, with the fact that an -appropriation of the above amount for extinguishing the claims had -passed the Senate, had excited some mistrust as to the governor's action -and attitude on that important question. In reply he simply gave a -synopsis of his report to the State Department, which set all doubts at -rest. - -FOOTNOTES: - - [10] Governor Stevens's own statement. See Bancroft's _Pacific - States_, vol. xxvi. p. 117, note. - - - - - CHAPTER XXV - - INDIAN POLICY.--TREATIES ON PUGET SOUND - - -Governor Stevens regarded his Indian treaties and Indian policy, and his -management of the Indians of the Northwest, as among the most important, -beneficial, and successful services he rendered the country. By ten -treaties and many councils and talks, he extinguished the Indian title -to a domain larger than New England; and by the Blackfoot council and -treaty he made peace between those fierce savages and the whites and all -the surrounding tribes, and permanently pacified a region equally -extensive, embracing the greater part of Montana and northern Idaho; and -during the four years, 1853-56, he treated and dealt with over thirty -thousand Indians, divided into very numerous and independent tribes and -bands, and occupying the whole vast region from the Pacific to and -including the plains of the upper Missouri, and now comprising the -States of Washington, part of Oregon, northern Idaho, and the greater -part of Montana. Moreover, by gaining the wavering friendship and -fidelity of doubtful tribes, and even many members of the disaffected, -he frustrated the well-planned efforts of the hostile Indians to bring -about a universal outbreak, and saved the infant settlements from -complete annihilation at the hands of the treacherous savages. - -His Indian policy was one of great beneficence to the Indians, jealously -protected their interests, and provided for their improvement and -eventual civilization, while at the same time it opened the country for -settlement by the whites. The wisdom with which it was planned, and the -ability and energy with which it was carried out, during this brief -period, are attested by the remarkable success which attended it, and by -the fact that many of these tribes are to-day living under those very -treaties, and have made substantial progress towards civilized habits. -It is believed that in their extent and magnitude, in their difficulties -and dangers, and in the permanence and beneficence of their results, -these operations are without parallel in the history of the country. Yet -for several years Governor Stevens's Indian treaties were bitterly -assailed and misrepresented both by hostile Indians and by officers high -in authority; their confirmation was refused by the United States -Senate, and he himself was made the target for virulent abuse. It was -his intention to write the history of these operations, an intention -which the pressure of public duties during the few remaining years of -his life, and his early death, prevented. In his final report on the -Northern route he remarks, in words of manly fortitude and confidence:-- - - "I trust the time will come when my treaty operations of 1855,--the - most extensive operations ever undertaken and carried out in these - latter days of our history,--I repeat, I trust the time will come - when I shall be able to vindicate them, and show that they were wise - and proper, and that they accomplished a great end. They have been - very much criticised and very much abused; but I have always felt - that history will do those operations justice. I have not been - impatient as to time, but have been willing that my vindication - should come at the end of a term of years. Let short-minded men - denounce and criticise ignorantly and injuriously, and let time show - that the government made no mistake in the man whom it placed in the - great field of duty as its commissioner to make treaties with the - Indian tribes." - -And in another place he adds:-- - - - "I intend at some future day to give a very full account of these - large operations in the Indian service." - -In his journey across the plains, amid all the cares and labors of the -great exploration, Governor Stevens took the utmost pains, by messages, -talks, and councils to and with the Blackfeet and other tribes, to -prepare them for the great council and peace treaty which he saw was -necessary for the opening and settlement of the country, and on arriving -in his own Territory was equally indefatigable in impressing upon the -Indians there the advantages of living at peace with the white man, of -adopting his better mode of livelihood, and of securing the aid and -protection of the Great Father in Washington. Among his first acts was -the appointment of Indian agents, and sending them to urge these views -upon the tribes. It was high time for judicious and prompt action; for -the Indians, especially the powerful and warlike tribes of the upper -Columbia, were becoming alarmed at the way the whites were pouring into -the country, and, under the invitation of Congress given by the Donation -Acts, were taking up their choicest lands without asking their consent. -On his recent visit in Washington he had impressed his views upon the -government, obtained its sanction and authorization for the Blackfoot -council, and the necessary authority and funds for treating with the -Indians of his own superintendency. He now planned treating first with -the tribes on Puget Sound and west of the Cascades for the cession of -their lands, then with the great tribes occupying the country between -the Cascades and Rocky Mountains for their lands, and then, crossing the -Rockies, to proceed to Fort Benton, accompanied by delegations from the -hunting tribes of Washington and Oregon, and there hold the great -pre-arranged peace council with the Blackfeet, Crows, and Assiniboines -of the plains east of the mountains, and the Nez Perces, Flatheads, Pend -Oreilles, etc., of the western slope. - -Immediately on his return to Olympia the governor sent out the agents -and messengers to assemble the Sound Indians at designated points for -council and treaty making, and early in January dispatched Mr. Doty with -a small party east of the Cascades to make the preliminary arrangements -for bringing together in council the Indians of that region. - -The Indians on the Sound, including those on the Strait of Fuca, -numbered some eight thousand five hundred, and were divided into a great -many tribes and bands. They were canoe Indians, and drew most of their -food from the waters, chiefly salmon and shell-fish, eked out with game, -roots, and berries. Those about the upper Sound had bands of ponies, -with which they roamed the prairies in summer. They lived in large -lodges, several families together, constructed of planks split from the -cedar, with nearly flat roofs, and often thirty or forty feet long and -twenty wide. They showed no little artistic skill in their canoes, -paddles, spears, fish-hooks, basket-work impervious to water, and mats -of rushes. Out of a single cedar-tree, with infinite pains and labor, -they hewed and burned the most graceful and beautiful and finest canoe -ever seen, the very model, in lines and run, of a clipper ship. These -varied in size from the little fishing-craft, holding but two persons, -to a great canoe carrying thirty. They held as slaves the captives taken -in war and their descendants, and, singularly enough, the heads of the -slaves were left in their natural state, while the skulls of the -free-born were flattened by pressure during infancy into the shape of a -shovel. Many of the bands were remnants of former large tribes, for they -had been greatly diminished in numbers by the ravages of smallpox and -venereal disease. They lacked the energy and courage of the Indians of -the upper country, and lived in perpetual dread of the gigantic and -savage northern Indians,--the Hydahs and other bands of Tlinkits of -British Columbia and Alaska,--who would periodically swoop down the -coast in their great war canoes and raid these feebler folk, ruthlessly -slaughtering the men, and enslaving the women and children. They -suffered also, but to a less degree, from incursions of bands of Yakimas -across the mountains, equally on trade and plunder bent, whom they -designated "Klikitats," or robbers, a term which has been taken as a -tribal name. To these dangers were now added the fear of the -all-powerful and ever-increasing whites. Thus situated and thus -apprehensive, the messages and exhortations of the governor promising -them protection, pointing out the way of bettering their condition, and -of even imitating the envied superior race, broke upon them like a -lighthouse in a dark night upon the storm-tossed mariner, relieved their -fears and anxieties, and gave them hope. They hastened to assemble at -the appointed council grounds, eager to listen to the new white chief, -and to learn what he offered from the Great Father for their benefit. - -On December 7, only two days after delivering his message to the -legislature, Governor Stevens organized his treaty-making force by -appointing James Doty secretary, George Gibbs surveyor, H.A. -Goldsborough commissary, and B.F. Shaw interpreter, Colonel M.T. Simmons -having already been appointed agent. The governor assembled these -gentlemen to confer upon the projected treaties. After giving his views, -and showing the necessity of speedily treating with the Indians and -placing them on reservations, he had Mr. Doty read certain treaties with -the Missouri and Omaha tribes, which contained provisions he deemed -worthy of adoption, and invited a general and thorough discussion of the -whole subject. So many points were settled by this frank and free -interchange of views that Mr. Gibbs was directed to draw up a programme, -or outline of a treaty, which on the next meeting on the 10th, after -discussion and some changes, was adopted as the basis of the treaties to -be made with the tribes on the Sound, coast, and lower Columbia. - -No better advisers could have been found than the men with whom he thus -took counsel; and one is struck by the clever and considerate way in -which he secured the best fruits of their knowledge and experience, and -enlisted their best efforts in carrying out the work. Simmons and Shaw -were old frontiersmen, among the earliest settlers, and had dealt much -with, and thoroughly understood, the Indians, and were respected and -trusted by them. Simmons has been justly termed the Daniel Boone of -Washington Territory. Shaw was said to be the only man who could make or -translate a speech in Chinook jargon offhand, as fast as a man could -talk in his own vernacular. The Chinook jargon was a mongrel lingo, made -up for trading purposes by the fur-traders from English, French, and -Indian words, and had become the common speech between whites and -Indians, and between Indians of different tribes and tongues. He greatly -distinguished himself afterwards in the Indian war as lieutenant-colonel -of volunteers. Gibbs and Goldsborough were men of education, and had -lived in the country long enough to know the general situation and -conditions, and to learn much about the Indians. Gibbs, indeed, made a -study of the different tribes, and rendered an able report upon them as -part of the Northern Pacific Railroad exploration. Doty, a son of -ex-Governor Doty, of Wisconsin, was a young man of uncommon ability and -energy, who had spent the preceding winter at Fort Benton, and had -studied and made a census of the Blackfeet. - -The salient features of the policy outlined were as follows:-- - -1. To concentrate the Indians upon a few reservations, and encourage -them to cultivate the soil and adopt settled and civilized habits. - -2. To pay for their lands not in money, but in annuities of blankets, -clothing, and useful articles during a long term of years. - -3. To furnish them with schools, teachers, farmers and farming -implements, blacksmiths, and carpenters, with shops of those trades. - -4. To prohibit wars and disputes among them. - -5. To abolish slavery. - -6. To stop as far as possible the use of liquor. - -7. As the change from savage to civilized habits must necessarily be -gradual, they were to retain the right of fishing at their accustomed -fishing-places, and of hunting, gathering berries and roots, and -pasturing stock on unoccupied land as long as it remained vacant. - -8. At some future time, when they should have become fitted for it, the -lands of the reservations were to be allotted to them in severalty. - -"It was proposed," reported the governor, "to remove all the Indians on -the east side of the Sound as far as the Snohomish, as also the -S'Klallams, to Hood's Canal, and generally to admit as few reservations -as possible, with a view of finally concentrating them in one." It was -found necessary, however, in consequence of the mutual jealousies of so -many independent tribes, to allow more reservations than he first -intended, but some of them were established temporarily, with the right -reserved in the President to remove the Indians to the larger -reservations in the future. - -The schooner R.B. Potter, Captain E.S. Fowler, was chartered at $700 per -month, manned and victualed by the owner, to transport the _personnel_ -and treaty goods from point to point on the Sound. Orrington Cushman, -Sidney S. Ford, Jr., and Henry D. Cock, with several assistants, were -employed as quartermasters, to prepare camps and council grounds, make -surveys, etc. - -In all his councils Governor Stevens took the greatest pains to make the -Indians understand what was said to them. To insure this he always had -several interpreters, to check each other and prevent mistakes in -translation, and was accustomed to consult the chiefs as to whom they -wanted as interpreters. - - "It was my invariable custom," he states in the introduction to his - final railroad report, page 18, "whenever I assembled a tribe in - council, to procure from them their own rude sketches of the - country, and a map was invariably prepared on a large scale and - shown to them, exhibiting not only the region occupied by them, but - the reservations that were proposed to be secured to them. At the - Blackfoot council, the map there exhibited of the Blackfoot - country--of the hunting-ground common to the Blackfeet and the - Assiniboines, of the hunting-ground common to the Blackfeet and the - tribes of Washington Territory, and of the passes of the Rocky - Mountains by which this hunting-ground was reached--was the - effective agent in guaranteeing to the Indians the exact facts as to - what the treaty did propose, and to give them absolute and entire - confidence in the government." - -He always urged and encouraged the Indians to make known their own -views, wishes, and objections, and gave them time to talk matters over -among themselves and make up their minds. Between the sessions of the -council he would have the agents and interpreters explain the terms and -point out the benefits of the proposed treaty, and would frequently -summon the chiefs to his tent, and personally explain matters to them, -and draw out their ideas. He also frequently invited public officers, -and citizens of standing, to attend the councils, and would make use of -them also to talk with and satisfy the Indians. All the proceedings of -these councils, the deliberations and speeches as well as the treaties, -were every word carefully taken down in writing, and transmitted to the -Indian Bureau in Washington, where they are now on file. No one can read -these records without being impressed with Governor Stevens's great -benevolence towards the Indians, and the absolute fairness, candor, and -patience, as well as the judgment and tact, he manifested in dealing -with them. One is also likely to be enlightened as to the native -intelligence, ability, and shrewdness of the Indians themselves. - -The first council was held on She-nah-nam, or Medicine Creek, now known -as McAlister's Creek, a mile above its mouth on the right bank, just -below the house of Hartman, on a rising and wooded spot a few acres in -extent, like an island with the creek on the one side (south) and the -tide-marsh on the other. This stream flows along the south side of the -Nisqually bottom, parallel to and half a mile from the river. The -governor and his party, including Mason, Lieutenant W.A. Slaughter, of -the 4th infantry, Doty, Gibbs, Edward Giddings, and the governor's son, -Hazard, a boy of twelve, went down to the treaty ground by canoes on -December 24, and found a large space cleared of underbrush, the tents -pitched, and everything made ready for the council by Simmons, Shaw, -Cock, Cushman, and others, who had been sent ahead for that purpose. -Seven hundred Indians of the tribes dwelling upon the upper Sound and as -far down as the Puyallup River, including the Nisqually, Puyallup, and -Squaxon tribes, were encamped near by. It rained nearly all day. In the -afternoon the Indians drove a large band of ponies across the creek, -forcing them to swim. Provisions were issued to the chiefs to distribute -among their people. - -On the following day the Indians assembled, taking seats on the ground -in front of the council tent in semi-circular rows, and the objects and -points of the proposed treaty were fully explained to them. The governor -would utter a sentence in simple and clear language, and Colonel Shaw -would interpret it in the Chinook jargon, which nearly all the Indians -understood. The governor was extremely careful to make the Indians -comprehend every sentence. Colonel Simmons, Gibbs, Cushman, and the -citizens present, all knew the Chinook, and attentively followed Shaw as -he interpreted, so that no mistake or omission could occur. It was slow -and fatiguing work, this going over the ground sentence by sentence, and -after several hours the Indians were dismissed for the day, told to -think over what they had heard, and to assemble again the next morning. -The governor wished to give them time to fully understand and reflect -upon the proposed treaty, and encouraged them to talk freely to himself -or any of his assistants in regard to it. - -On the 26th the Indians assembled about nine o'clock to the number of -650, and Governor Stevens addressed them as follows:-- - - "This is a great day for you and for us, a day of peace and - friendship between you and the whites for all time to come. You are - about to be paid for your lands, and the Great Father has sent me - to-day to treat with you concerning the payment. The Great Father - lives far off. He has many children. Some of those children came - here when he knew but little of them, or of the Indians, and he sent - me to inquire about these things. We went through this country this - last year, learned your numbers and saw your wants. We felt much for - you, and went to the Great Father to tell him what we had seen. The - Great Father felt for his children. He pitied them, and he has sent - me here to-day to express these feelings, and to make a treaty for - your benefit. The Great Father has many white children who come - here, some to build mills, some to make farms, and some to fish; - and the Great Father wishes you to learn to farm, and your children - to go to a good school; and he now wants me to make a bargain with - you, in which you will sell your lands, and in return be provided - with all these things. You will have certain lands set apart for - your homes, and receive yearly payments of blankets, axes, etc. All - this is written down in this paper, which will be read to you. If it - is good you will sign it, and I will then send it to the Great - Father. I think he will be pleased with it and say it is good, but - if not, if he wishes it different, he will say so and send it back; - and then, if you agree to it, it is a fixed bargain, and payments - will be made." - -The treaty was then read section by section and explained to the -Indians, and every opportunity given them to discuss it. - -Governor Stevens then said:-- - - "The paper has been read to you. Is it good? If it is good, we will - sign it; but if you dislike it in any point, say so now. After - signing we have some goods to give you, and next summer will give - you some more; and after that you must wait until the paper comes - back from the Great Father. The goods now given are not in payment - for your lands; they are merely a friendly present." - -The Indians had some discussion, and Governor Stevens then put the -question: "Are you ready? If so, I will sign it." There were no -objections, and the treaty was then signed by Governor I.I. Stevens, and -the chiefs, delegates, and headmen on the part of the Indians, and duly -witnessed by the secretary, special agent, and seventeen citizens -present. - -The presents and provisions were then given to the chiefs, who -distributed them among their people. Towards evening Mr. Swan arrived -with twenty-nine Indians of the Puyallup tribe, and reported twenty more -on the way. They had started three days before, but had been detained by -bad weather. The governor decided to send them presents from Olympia. - -Thus it will be seen that the governor first explained the objects and -terms of the treaty generally, and the next day had the text of it read -to them and also explained. The idea of selling their lands and being -paid for them was not new to the Indians, for the settlers were in the -habit of assuring them, when they objected and complained at the -appropriation and fencing up of their choicest camping, root, and berry -grounds, that the Great Father would soon pay them well for their -country. - -The scope and policy of the treaty will best appear by the following -abstract of its thirteen articles:-- - -1. The Indians cede their land to the United States, comprising the -present counties of Thurston, Pierce, and parts of Mason and King. - -2. Sets off and describes the reservations, viz., Klah-she-min Island, -known as Squaxon Island, situated opposite the mouths of Hammersley's -and Totten's inlets, and separated from Hartstene Island by Pearl -Passage, containing about two sections of land, or 1280 acres, a square -tract of two sections near and south of the mouth of McAlister's Creek, -and another equal tract on the south side of Commencement Bay, now -covered by the city of Tacoma. Provision is made for the Indians to -remove to these reservations, and for roads through them and from them -to the nearest public highways. - -3. Gives the Indians the right of fishing at their accustomed grounds, -except the right of taking shell-fish from beds staked out or cultivated -by citizens, and the rights of hunting, gathering berries and roots, and -pasturing herds on unclaimed land. - -4. $32,500 to be paid in annuities of goods, clothing, and useful -articles during the next twenty years. - -5. And $3250 to be expended in aiding the Indians to settle on their -reservations. - -6. Empowers the President to remove the Indians to other reservations, -when the interests of the Territory require it, by remunerating them for -their improvements. - -7. Prohibits the use of annuities to pay the debts of individuals. - -8. Prohibits war or depredations, and the Indians agree to submit all -grievances to the government for settlement. - -9. Excludes ardent spirits from the reservations on penalty of -withholding annuities. - -10. Provides at a central or general agency a free school, a blacksmith -shop, and a carpenter shop, and to furnish a blacksmith, a carpenter, a -farmer, and teachers, all to give instructions for twenty years. - -11. Frees all slaves and abolishes slavery. - -12. Prohibits the Indians from trading outside the dominions of the -United States, and forbids foreign Indians to reside on the reservations -without the permission of the superintendent or agent. - -13. The treaty to go into effect as soon as ratified by the President -and Senate. - -The twelfth article was aimed against the liquor traffic, and also to -counteract the undue influence of the Hudson Bay Company. It carried out -the idea expressed in the governor's instructions to McClellan and -Saxton at the outset of the exploration, already quoted. "The Indians -must look to us for protection and counsel.... I am determined, in my -intercourse with the Indians, to break up the ascendency of the Hudson -Bay Company, and permit no authority or sanction to come between the -Indians and the officers of this government." - -Sixty-two Indians signed this treaty, "chiefs, headmen, and delegates of -the Nisqually, Puyallup, Steilacoom, Squawksin, S'Homamish, Steh-chass, -T'Peek-sin, Squiaitl, and Sa-ha-wamish tribes and bands of Indians, -occupying the lands lying around the head of Puget Sound and the -adjacent inlets, who, for the purpose of this treaty, are to be regarded -as one nation." The Indians all made their marks to their names as -written out in full by the secretary. They were: Qui-ee-metl, -Sno-ho-dum-set, Lesh-high, Slip-o-elm, Kwi-ats, Sta-hi, Di-a-keh, -Hi-ten, Squa-ta-hun, Kahk-tse-min, So-nan-o-youtl, Kl-tehp, Sahl-ko-min, -T'Bet-ste-heh-bit, Tcha-hoos-tan, Ke-cha-hat, Spee-peh, Swe-yah-tum, -Chah-achsh, Pich-kehd, S'Klah-o-sum, Sah-le-tatl, See-lup, E-la-kah-ka, -Slug-yeh, Hi-nuk, Ma-mo-nish, Cheels, Knut-ca-nu, Bats-ta-ko-be, -Win-ne-ya, Klo-out, Se-uch-ka-nam, Ske-mah-han, Wuts-un-a-pum, -Quuts-a-tadm, Quut-a-heh-mtsn, Yah-leh-chn, To-tahl-kut, Yul-lout, -See-ahts-oot-soot, Ye-tah-ko, We-po-it-ee, Kah-sld, La'h-hom-kan, -Pah-how-at-ish, Swe-yehm, Sah-hwill, Se-kwaht, Kah-hum-kit, Yah-kwo-bah, -Wut-sah-le-wun, Sah-ba-hat, Tel-e-kish, Swe-keh-nam, Sit-oo-ah, -Ko-quel-a-cut, Jack, Keh-kise-be-lo, Go-yeh-hn, Sah-putsh, William. - -Lesh-high, the third signer, was the principal chief and instigator of -the Indian war that broke out the following year, and, after the -outbreak was suppressed, was tried and executed for the murder of -settlers, after an excited controversy and strenuous efforts to save him -on the part of some of the regular officers. Born of a Yakima mother, he -was a chief of unusual intelligence and energy, had much to do with the -Hudson Bay Company's people at Fort Nisqually, by whom he was much -trusted as a guide and hunter, and was supposed to be well affected -towards the whites. The first signer, Qui-ee-muth, was Lesh-high's -brother, and met with a more tragic fate, being slain by a revengeful -settler after he was captured. Sta-hi, the fifth signer, was killed -during the Indian war. - -The witnesses who signed the treaty, nineteen in number, including -well-known public men and pioneers, were the following: M.T. Simmons, -Indian agent; James Doty, secretary; C.H. Mason, secretary of the -Territory; W.A. Slaughter, 1st lieutenant, 4th infantry, U.S. A.; James -McAlister, E. Giddings, Jr., George Shazer, Henry D. Cock, Orrington -Cushman, S.S. Ford, Jr., John W. McAlister, Peter Anderson, Samuel -Klady, W.H. Pullen, F.O. Hough, E.R. Tyerall, George Gibbs, Benjamin F. -Shaw, interpreter, Hazard Stevens. - -The governor became satisfied at a later date that the reservations set -off for the Nisquallies and Puyallups were inadequate for their future -needs, being of inferior soil and heavily timbered, and in 1856 caused -them to be exchanged for two larger tracts of fine, fertile bottom -land,--one on the Nisqually, a few miles above its mouth, and the other -at the mouth of the Puyallup River, directly opposite the city of -Tacoma, which the Indians still occupy. - -In the evening, after the council broke up, the governor had another -long conference with his advisory board, and settled the points and -programme for other treaties. The next morning, directing Gibbs to -survey the lines of the two reservations on Nisqually and Commencement -bays, and dispatching Simmons and Shaw with the rest of the party in the -schooner to the lower Sound to assemble the Indians for the remaining -treaties, he returned to Olympia with Mason and Doty. The treaty was -immediately forwarded to Washington, and was ratified by the Senate, -March 3, 1855, but little over two months after the council. - - - THE TREATY OF POINT ELLIOTT. - -The next council was held at Mukilteo, or Point Elliott, where, between -January 12 and 21, the Indians of the east side of the Sound assembled -to the number of 2300. On the latter date Governor Stevens arrived on -the Major Tompkins, accompanied by Secretary Mason, and by his friend, -Dr. C.M. Hitchcock, of San Francisco, who was visiting the country. -After a long conference with his assistants in regard to the most -suitable points for reservations, and the views and feelings of the -Indians, he appointed Gibbs secretary, in place of Doty, who had -departed on his mission east of the mountains, and directed him to -prepare the draft of a treaty embodying the points decided upon, and in -terms similar to the one recently concluded. - -The next morning the Indians all assembled; the four head -chiefs--Seattle, chief of the Duwhamish and other bands on White River -and the Sound within twenty miles of Seattle; Pat-ka-nim, chief of the -Snohomish; Goliah, chief of the Skagits; and Chow-its-hoot, chief of the -Bellingham Bay and island Indians--took seats in front on the ground; -the sub-chiefs occupied a second row, and the various tribes took places -behind them in separated groups. The governor then addressed them as -follows, Colonel Shaw interpreting:-- - - "My children, you are not my children because you are the fruit of - my loins, but because you are children for whom I have the same - feeling as if you were the fruit of my loins. You are my children - for whom I will strenuously labor all the days of my life until I - shall be taken hence. What will a man do for his own children? He - will see that they are well cared for; that they have clothes to - protect them against the cold and rain; that they have food to guard - them against hunger; and as for thirst, you have your own glorious - streams in which to quench it. I want you as my children to be fed - and clothed, and made comfortable and happy. I find that many of you - are Christians, and I saw among you yesterday the sign of the cross, - which I think the most holy of all signs. I address you therefore - mainly as Christians, who know that this life is a preparation for - the life to come. - - "You understand well my purpose, and you want now to know the - special things we propose to do for you. We want to place you in - homes where you can cultivate the soil, raising potatoes and other - articles of food, and where you may be able to pass in canoes over - the waters of the Sound and catch fish, and back to the mountains to - get roots and berries. The Great Father desires this, and why am I - able to say this? Here are two thousand men, women, and children, - who have always treated white men well. Did I not come through your - country one year since? Were not many of you now present witnesses - of the fact? [All said Governor Stevens came.] Did I then make - promises to you? [All said he did not.] I am glad to hear this, - because I came through your country, not to make promises, but to - know what you were, to know what you wanted, to know your - grievances, and to report to the Great Father about you. I have been - to the Great Father and told him your condition. Here on this Sound - you make journeys of three and four days, but I made a journey of - fifty days on your behalf. I told the Great Father I had traveled - six moons in reaching this country, and had never found an Indian - who would not give me food, raiment, and animals to forward me and - mine to the great country of the West. I told him that I was among - ten thousand Indians, and they took me to their lodges and offered - me all they had, and here I will pause and ask you again if you do - not know that I have been absent several months on this business? - [All shout, 'Yes.'] I went away, but I left a good and strong man in - my place. I call upon Governor Mason to speak to you." - -Mr. Mason then addressed them, and then the governor called upon Colonel -Simmons, who made them a speech in Chinook, at the conclusion of which -the Indians cheered. - -The governor then resumed:-- - - "The Great Father thinks you ought to have homes, and he wants you - to have a school where your children can learn to read, and can be - made farmers and be taught trades. He is willing you should catch - fish in the waters, and get roots and berries back in the mountains. - He wishes you all to be virtuous and industrious, and to become a - happy and prosperous community. Is this good, and do you want this? - If not, we will talk further. [All answer, 'We do.'] - - - "My children, I have simply told you the heart of the Great Father. - But the lands are yours, and we mean to pay you for them. We thank - you that you have been so kind to all the white children of the - Great Father who have come here from the East. Those white children - have always told you you would be paid for your lands, and we are - now here to buy them. - - "The white children of the Great Father, but no more his children - than you are, have come here, some to build mills, some to till the - land, and others to build and sail ships. My children, I believe - that I have got your hearts. You have my heart. We will put our - hearts down on paper, and then we will sign our names. I will send - that paper to the Great Father, and if he says it is good, it will - stand forever. I will now have the paper read to you, and all I ask - of you two thousand Indians is that you will say just what you - think, and, if you find it good, that your chiefs and headmen will - sign the same." - -Before the treaty was read, the Indians sung a mass, after the Roman -Catholic form, and recited a prayer. - - Governor Stevens: "Does any one object to what I have said? Does my - venerable friend Seattle object? I want Seattle to give his heart to - me and to his people." - - Seattle: "I look upon you as my father. All the Indians have the - same good feeling toward you, and will send it on the paper to the - Great Father. All of them--men, old men, women, and - children--rejoice that he has sent you to take care of them. My mind - is like yours; I don't want to say more. My heart is very good - towards Dr. Maynard [a physician who was present]; I want always to - get medicine from him." - - Governor Stevens: "My friend Seattle has put me in mind of one thing - which I had forgotten. You shall have a doctor to cure your bodies. - Now, my friends, I want you, if Seattle has spoken well, to say so - by three cheers. [Three cheers were given.] Now we call upon - Pat-ka-nim to speak his mind." - - Pat-ka-nim: "To-day I understood your heart as soon as you spoke. I - understood your talk plainly. God made my heart and those of my - people good and strong. It is good that we should give you our real - feelings today. We want everything as you have said, the doctor and - all. Such is the feeling of all the Indians. Our hearts are with the - whites. God makes them good towards the Americans." [Three cheers - were given for Pat-ka-nim.] - - Chow-its-hoot: "I do not want to say much. My heart is good. God has - made it good towards you. I work on the ground, raise potatoes, and - build houses. I have some houses at home. But I will stop building - if you wish, and will move to Cha-chu-sa. Now I have given you my - opinion, and that of my friends. Their feelings are all good, and - they will do as you say hereafter. My mind is the same as Seattle's. - I love him, and send my friends to him if they are sick. I go to Dr. - Maynard at Seattle if I am sick." [Cheers for Chow-its-hoot.] - - Goliah: "My mind is the same as the governor's. God has made it so. - I have no wish to say much. I am happy at heart. I am happy to hear - the governor talk of God. My heart is good and that of all my - friends. I give it to the governor. I shall be glad to have a doctor - for the Indians. We are all glad to hear you, and to be taken care - of by you. I do not want to say more." [Cheers were given for - Goliah.] - -The treaty was then read and interpreted to them, and the governor asked -them if they were satisfied with it. If they were, he would sign it -first, and then they should sign it. If not, he wished them to state in -what they desired it to be altered. All having signified their -approbation, it was signed first by Governor Stevens, and afterwards by -the chiefs and headmen. - -The hour being late when the signing was finished, the distribution of -the presents was deferred to the next day. - -Tuesday, January 23. The Indians having reassembled, Governor Stevens -informed them that he was about to distribute some presents. They were -not intended as payment for their lands, but merely as a friendly token -of regard. He gave them but few things at this time, but the next summer -he should again give them a larger present, when the goods intended for -them arrived. - -Seattle then brought a white flag, and presented it, saying: - - "Now, by this we make friends, and put away all bad feelings, if we - ever had any. We are the friends of the Americans. All the Indians - are of the same mind. We look upon you as our father. We will never - change our minds, but, since you have been to see us, we will always - be the same. Now! now! do you send this paper of our hearts to the - Great Chief. That is all I have to say." - -The presents were then given to the chiefs to distribute among their -people, the camp was struck, and the party embarked on board the -steamer, which had been chartered for the purpose of expediting the -preparations for the next council, that with the S'Klallams and -Sko-ko-mish, but, a heavy blow coming on, she lay at anchor till -morning. An Indian express arrived with news that the Indians were -collected at Fort Gamble, awaiting the arrival of the governor. - -The tribes, as enumerated in the treaty, furnish a long list of -unpronounceable Indian names, as follows: Dwamish, Suquamish, -Sk-tahl-mish, Sa-mah-mish, Smalh-ka-mish, Skope-ah-mish, Sno-qual-moo, -Skai-wha-mish, N'Quentl-ma-mish, Sk-tah-le-jum, Sto-luck-wha-mish, -Sno-ho-mish, Skagit, Kik-i-all-us, Swin-a-mish, Squin-a-mish, -Sah-ku-me-hu, Noo-wha-ha, Nook-wa-chah-mish, Me-see-qua-guilch, -Cho-bah-ah-bish, and others. - -The fifteen articles of this treaty contain the same general provisions -as that of She-nah-nam Creek. The territory ceded by Article 1 extends -from the summit of the Cascades to the middle of the Sound, and from the -49th parallel as far south as the Puyallup River, very nearly, and -comprises the present counties of King, part of Kitsap, Snohomish, -Skagit, Whatcom, Island, and San Juan. - -The reservations, Articles 2 and 3, included 1280 acres at Port Madison, -1280 acres on the east side of Fidalgo Island, and the island called -Chah-chu-sa in the Lummi River. An entire township on the northeast side -of Port Gardner, embracing Tulalip Bay, was made the principal -reservation, to which the Indians might be removed from the smaller -ones; $150,000 in annuities in goods, etc., for twenty years, and -$15,000 for improvements on the reservation were provided. The rights of -fishing, hunting, gathering berries and roots, and pasturage on vacant -land were secured to the Indians. Slavery was abolished, liquor -prohibited on the reservations, wars and depredations forbidden, and -trading in foreign dominions prohibited. A free school, teachers, -doctor, blacksmith and carpenter with shops, and a farmer were provided -for, and provision made for eventually allotting the reservations to -them in severalty. - -The first chief to sign the treaty was Seattle, after whom was named the -metropolis of the Sound; the next was Pat-ka-nim, then Chow-its-hoot, -then Goliah, and then follows the long list of guttural and sibillant -native names, unspeakable by white lips, some of which were accompanied -by an alias, as the Smoke, the Priest, General Washington, General -Pierce, Davy Crockett, etc. - -The treaty was witnessed by M.T. Simmons, C.H. Mason, Charles M. -Hitchcock, H.A. Goldsborough, George Gibbs, John H. Scranton, Henry D. -Cock, S.S. Ford, Jr., Orrington Cushman, Ellis Barnes, P. Bailey, S.M. -Collins, Lafayette Balch, E.S. Fowler, J.H. Hall, Robert Davis, and -Benjamin F. Shaw,--seventeen in number. - -The ratification of this and all Governor Stevens's subsequent Indian -treaties was delayed some four years in consequence of the Indian war -which broke out in the fall of 1855, and the misrepresentations made -concerning them, and the charges that they were the cause of the -war,--misrepresentations and charges originally started by the hostile -Indians, and taken up by prejudiced army officers and political and -personal enemies; and it was not until he entered Congress, and -personally vindicated his treaties before the government and Senate, -that they were ratified, on March 8, 1859. - - - TREATY OF HAHD-SKUS OR POINT-NO-POINT. - -The next council was held at Point-no-Point, on the west side of the -Sound, opposite the southern end of Whitby Island. The weather was very -stormy on the 24th and 25th, but twelve hundred Indians assembled here, -comprising the S'Klallams or Clallams, who occupied the shores from half -way down the Strait of Fuca to the council ground; the Chim-a-kums, of -Port Townsend Bay and the lower end of Hood's Canal; and the Skokomish -or Too-an-hooch, from Hood's Canal and the country about its southern -extremity. The Major Tompkins reached Point-no-Point on the 24th, and, -leaving the schooner at anchor, and the men on shore to form camp, ran -down to Port Townsend to bring up additional provisions, and returned in -the afternoon. On the 25th, notwithstanding the storm, the Indians -gathered at the council ground, and, having seated themselves in a -circular row under their chiefs, Governor Stevens addressed them as -follows:-- - - "My children, you call me your father. I, too, have a father, who is - your Great Father. That Great Father has sent me here to-day to pay - you for your lands, to provide for your children, to see that you - are fed, and that you are cared for. Your Great Father wishes you to - be happy, to be friends to each other. The Great Father wants you - and the whites to be friends; he wants you to have a house of your - own, to have a school where your children can learn. He wants you to - learn to farm, to learn to use tools, and also to have a doctor. - Now, all these things shall be written down in a paper; that paper - shall be read to you. If the paper is good, you will sign it and I - will sign it. I will then send the paper to the Great Father. If - the Great Father finds that paper good, he will send me word, and I - will let you know. The Great Father lives a long way off, and some - time will be required to hear from him. I want you to wait patiently - till you hear from him. In the mean time the Great Father has sent - to you some presents simply as a free gift. Some of these presents I - will give you to-day, but I shall give you more in the course of the - summer. You will also have your agent, Mr. Simmons, to take care of - you. This you will have all the time; and, when the paper comes from - the Great Father, then you will have your own houses and homes and - schools. Now, what have you to say? If good, give your assent; if - not, say so. Now, sit quiet a moment, and the paper will be read." - -After the treaty had been read and interpreted, Governor Stevens again -asked them if they had anything to say. - -Che-lan-teh-tat, an old Skokomish, then rose and said:-- - - "I wish to speak my mind as to selling the land. Great Chief, what - shall we eat if we do so? Our only food is berries, deer, and - salmon. Where, then, shall we find these? I don't want to sign away - all my land. Take half of it, and let us keep the rest. I am afraid - that I shall become destitute and perish for want of food. I don't - like the place you have chosen for us to live on. I am not ready to - sign that paper." - -S'Haie-at-seha-uk, a To-an-hooch, next spoke:-- - - "I do not want to leave the mouth of the river. I do not want to - leave my old home and my burying-ground. I am afraid I shall die if - I do." - -Dah-whil-luk, the Skokomish head chief, an old man, rose and said:-- - - "I do not want to sell my land, because it is valuable. The whites - pay a great deal for a small piece, and they get money by selling - the sticks [timber]. Formerly the Indians slept, but the whites came - among them and woke them up, and we now know that the lands are - worth much." - -Hool-hole-tan or Jim said:-- - - "I want to speak. I do not like the offers you make in the treaty to - us. You say you will give us land, but why should you give us the - mouth of the river? I don't like to go on a reservation with the - S'Klallams; and, in case of trouble, there are more of them than of - us, and they will charge us with it. Before the whites came among - us, we had no idea who made the land; but some time ago the priests - told us that the Great Chief above made it, and also made the - Indians. Since then the Americans have told us that the Great Father - always bought the land, and that it was not right to take it for - nothing. They waked the Indians up by this, and they now know their - land was worth much. I don't want to sign away my right to the land. - If it was myself alone I signed for, I would do it; but we have - women and children. Let us keep half of it, and take the rest. Why - should we sell all? We may become destitute. Why not let us live - together with you? I want you to hear what I have to say. All the - Indians have been afraid to talk, but I wish to speak and be - listened to." - -Chits-a-mah-han or the Duke of York, the head chief of the Clallams:-- - - "My heart is good. I am happy since I have heard the paper read, and - since I have understood Governor Stevens, particularly since I have - been told I could look for food where I pleased, and not in one - place only. Formerly the Indians were bad towards each other, but - Governor Stevens has made them agree to be friends. Before the - whites came we were always poor; since then we have earned money, - and got blankets and clothing. I hope the governor will tell the - whites not to abuse the Indians, as many are in the habit of doing, - ordering them to go away, and knocking them down." - -Other chiefs of the Clallams and of the Chem-a-cums followed in the same -strain as the Duke of York, approving the treaty. After further -explaining its provisions the governor adjourned the council to the -morrow at the request of the Skokomish chief, in order that they might -talk it over and understand it thoroughly. - -It will be observed that this treaty encountered considerable opposition -on the part of the Skokomish, who were, however, the most benefited by -it, as the reservation was located in their country. They were largely -influenced by the example of the other tribes, and after much discussion -among themselves, and talks between sessions with the governor and his -assistants, concluded to accept it. - -The next morning was a fine, pleasant one, and the Indians came to the -council bearing white flags. The governor addressed them, pointing out -that the treaty gave them all those things that a father would give his -children, as homes, schools, mechanics, and a doctor; the right to fish, -hunt, and gather roots and berries. Besides, it prohibited fire-water, -and does not a father prevent his children from drinking fire-water? The -Great Father was good to his children, and did not wish to steal their -lands. It was for them to say what they thought right. If they had -anything to say, say it now. - -The Duke of York then presented a white flag, saying: - - "My heart is white, so are those of my people, and we will never - stain it with blood." - -Dah-kwil-luk, the Skokomish chief, said:-- - - "My heart, too, has become white, and I give it to the chief. I put - away all bad feelings. I will be as a good man, not stealing or - shedding blood. We have thrown away the feelings of yesterday and - are now satisfied." - -He also presented a flag to the governor. - -Kul-kah-han, the Chem-a-cum chief, then presented his flag, saying:-- - - "We can say nothing but what this flag tells. We give our hearts to - you with it in return for what you do for us. We were once wretched, - but since you came you have made us right. Formerly other Indians - did wrong us, but since the whites came we are free and have not - been killed." - -Then all signed the treaty, and at a signal a salute was fired from the -steamer in honor of the event. - -Some hostile feelings having previously existed between the tribes, -Governor Stevens now declared that they must drop them forever, and that -their hearts towards each other should be good as well as towards the -whites. Accordingly the three head chiefs, in behalf of their people, -then shook hands. Then the presents were distributed to them. In the -afternoon the party reëmbarked, Mr. Mason returning to Olympia on the -steamer, and Governor Stevens with the remainder proceeding to Port -Townsend in the schooner, on his way to Cape Flattery, the next point of -meeting. - -The tribes mentioned in the treaty as parties thereto are the Skokomish, -To-an-hooch, Chem-a-cum, and S'Klallam, and the sub-bands of the last, -viz., Kah-tie, Squah-quaihtl, Tch-queen, Ste-teht-lum, Tsohkw, Yennis, -Elh-wa, Pishtst, Hun-nint, Klat-la-wash, and O-ke-ho, occupying lands on -the Strait of Fuca and Hood's Canal. - -A reservation was set off at the mouth of the Skokomish River, of 3840 -acres. $60,000 in the usual annuities, and $6000 for the improvement of -the reservation, were provided, and the other provisions were the same -as in the Tulalip and She-nah-nam Creek treaties. This treaty was -witnessed by the same gentlemen who witnessed the preceding. - - - COUNCIL OF NEAH BAY, AND MAKAH TREATY. - -From Port Townsend the schooner sped rapidly down the Strait of Fuca, -running one hundred and twenty miles in two days,--no holiday voyage, in -a small vessel in midwinter, along that exposed and shelterless -coast,--and reached Neah Bay on the evening of the 28th. At this point, -just inside Cape Flattery, the Makah Indians had their principal -village. Messengers were immediately dispatched to call in the Indians -of the other Makah villages, and of tribes farther south on the coast. -The tents, goods, and men were landed on the 29th, and camp established. -The following day the governor, accompanied by Mr. Gibbs, crossed the -Cape Flattery peninsula to the Pacific coast, and examined the country -for the purpose of selecting a suitable reservation. In the evening he -called a meeting of the Makah chiefs on board the schooner, the other -villages having come in during the day, and explained the principal -features of the proposed treaty. The Great Father had sent him here to -watch over the Indians. He had talked with the other tribes on the -Sound, and they had promised to be good friends with their neighbors, -and he had now come to talk with the Makahs. When he had done here, he -was going to the Indians down the coast, and would make them friends to -the Makahs. He had treated with the other Sound Indians for their lands, -setting aside reserves for them, giving them a school, farmer, -physician, etc., etc. When he concluded, Kal-chote, a Makah chief, -spoke: "Before the big chiefs Klehsitt, the White Chief, Yall-a-coon or -Flattery Jack, and Heh-iks died, he was not the head chief himself, he -was only the small chief, but though there were many Indians then, he -was not the least of them. He knew the country all around, and therefore -he had a right to speak. He thought he ought to have the right to fish, -and take whales, and get food where he liked. He was afraid that if he -could not take halibut where he wanted, he would become poor." - -Keh-tchook, of the stone house: "What Kal-chote had said was his wish. -He did not want to leave the salt water." - -Governor Stevens informed them that, so far from wishing to stop their -fisheries, he wished to send them oil-kettles and fishing apparatus. - -Klah-pr-at-loo: "He was willing to sell his land. All he wanted was the -right of fishing." - -Tse-kan-wootl: "He wanted the sea. That was his country. If whales were -killed and floated ashore, he wanted, for his people, the exclusive -right of taking them, and if their slaves ran away, he wanted to get -them back." - -Governor Stevens replied that he wanted them to fish, but the whites -should fish also. Whoever killed the whales was to have them if they -came ashore. Many white men were coming into the country, and he did not -want the Indians to be crowded out. - - Kal-chote: "I want always to live on my old ground, and to die on - it. I only want a small piece for a house, and will live as a friend - to the whites, and they should fish together." - - Ke-bach-sat: "My heart is not bad, but I do not wish to leave all my - land. I am willing you should have half, but I want the other half - myself." - - It-an-da-ha: "My father! my father! I now give you my heart. When - any ships come and the whites injure me, I will apply to my father, - and tell him of my trouble, and look to him for help, and if any - Indians wish to kill me, I shall still call on my father. I do not - wish to leave the salt water. I want to fish in common with the - whites. I don't want to sell all my land. I want a part in common - with the whites to plant potatoes on. I want the place where my - house is." - -Governor Stevens asked them whether, if the right of drying fish -wherever they pleased was left them, they could not agree to live at one -place for a winter residence and potato ground, explaining the idea of -subdivision of lands, and he desired them to think the matter over -during the night. They were asked to consult among themselves upon the -choice of a head chief. As they declined doing this, on the ground that -they were all of equal rank, the governor selected Tse-kan-wootl, the -Osett chief, as the head, a choice in which they all acquiesced with -satisfaction. Temporary papers in lieu of commissions were then issued -to a number of the sub-chiefs. - -The Indians assembled in council on the morning of January 31. The -number of the tribe was found to be six hundred. Governor Stevens -explained the provisions of the treaty:-- - - "The Great Father sent me to see you, and give you his mind. The - whites are crowding in upon you. The Great Father wishes to give you - your homes, to buy your land, and give a fair price for it, leaving - you land enough to live on and raise potatoes. He knows what whalers - you are, how far you go to sea to take whales. He will send you - barrels in which to put your oil, kettles to try it out, lines and - implements to fish with. The Great Father wants your children to go - to school, to learn trades." - -The treaty was then read and interpreted and explained, clause by -clause. - -Governor Stevens then asked them if they were satisfied. If they were, -to say so. If not, to answer freely and state their objections. - -Tse-kan-wootl brought up a white flag and presented it, saying: "Look at -this flag. See if there are any spots on it. There are none, and there -are none on our hearts." - -Kal-chote then presented another flag and said, "What you have said is -good, and what you have written is good." - -The Indians gave three cheers or shouts as each concluded. The governor -then signed the treaty, and was followed by the Indian chiefs and -principal men, forty-one in number, of the Neah, Waatch, Tsoo-yess, and -Osett villages, or bands of the Makahs. Among the names are -Klah-pe-an-hie or Andrew Jackson, Tchoo-quut-lah or Yes Sir, and Swell -or Jeff Davis. - -The witnesses were M.T. Simmons, Indian agent; George Gibbs, secretary; -B.F. Shaw, interpreter; C.M. Hitchcock, M.D.; E.S. Fowler, Orrington -Cushman, and Robert Davis. - -The provisions of this treaty are the same as in the others. The -annuities in goods, etc., amounted to $30,000, and $3000 were provided -to improve the reservation, which embraced Neah Bay and Cape Flattery -and their principal village. It was intended only for a place of -residence, with enough cultivable land for potatoes and vegetables, and, -what was more important, to prevent their being crowded off by fishing -establishments. The locality is unfit for agriculture, being rocky and -sterile, with an annual rainfall of 122 inches. And the reserve was all -they needed, for the Makahs are bold and skillful fishermen and sailors, -accustomed to venture thirty to fifty miles out to sea in their large -canoes, and take the whale and halibut, while inshore they hunt the seal -and sea-otter, and catch the salmon. They are a more sturdy, brave, and -enterprising race than the natives of the Sound, more resembling the -northern Indians. In their remote, rocky stronghold, protected by the -strong arm of the government extended over them by this treaty, but -depending upon the sea and their own efforts for a livelihood, they have -prospered greatly, putting up vast quantities of fish, furs, and oil for -market; and there are few white communities that have so much wealth per -capita, or wealth so evenly distributed, as these industrious and manly -Indians. - -Immediately after the signing the presents were distributed, the camp -was broken up, and in the evening the party reëmbarked. The little -vessel at once hoisted sail for Port Townsend, where, after a three -days' trip, being delayed by head winds, she arrived February 3. The -next day the governor, with some of the party, took the Major Tompkins -for Victoria, in order to confer with Governor Douglass upon the means -of preventing the piratical incursions of the northern Indians upon the -Sound. On the 5th he returned to Port Townsend, and reached Olympia on -the night of the 6th. - -This brief campaign was Napoleonic, in rapidity and success. In six -weeks Governor Stevens met and treated with five thousand Indians, of -numerous independent and jealous tribes and bands, and in four separate -councils carefully and indefatigably made clear to them the new policy, -convinced them of its benefits to them, and concluded with them four -separate treaties, by which the Indian title to the whole Puget Sound -basin was extinguished forever, and the great source and danger of -collision between the races was removed. For the eight thousand five -hundred Indians hitherto ignored by Congress and treated by the settlers -as mere vagrants, to be shoved aside at the whim or self-interest of any -white man, he established nine reservations, containing over 60,000 -acres, for their permanent homes and exclusive possessions; provided -annuities of clothing, goods, and useful articles for twenty years, -aggregating $300,000; abolished slavery and war among them; excluded -liquor from the reservations; extended over them the protection of the -government, with agents, schools, teachers, farmers, and mechanics to -instruct them; and, in a word, set their feet fairly on "the white man's -road." To accomplish this astonishing work in such brief time, he -traveled eight hundred miles upon the Sound and Strait in the most -inclement season of the year, half the distance, and that the most -dangerous, in a small sailing-craft. He disregarded the storms and rains -of that inclement season, and spared neither himself nor his assistants. -It is not easy to say who had the hardest task, the agents and -messengers who traveled all over the Sound in canoes in the tempestuous -rainy season to call the scattered bands together, or the unfortunate -secretary, who had to catch and set down on paper the jaw-breaking -native names. - -The success and rapidity with which he carried through these treaties -were due to the careful and thorough manner in which he planned them, -and prepared the minds of the Indians by his tour among and talks to -them a year previous, and by the messages and agents he had sent among -them. Besides, the Indians realized their own feebleness and uncertain -future, divided into so many bands, exposed to the depredations of the -northern Indians, and dreading the advent and encroachments of the -whites. Their minds consequently were well attuned for treating; and -when they understood the wise and beneficent policy and liberal terms -offered by the governor, they gladly accepted them, and put their trust -in him as their friend and protector, a trust never withdrawn and never -forsaken. - -The Indian war which occurred soon after, and the delay in the -ratification of the treaties, seriously militated against carrying out -the beneficent policy so well inaugurated, and later the occasional -appointment of inefficient and dishonest agents has proved even more -detrimental; but notwithstanding all these drawbacks the Indians have -made substantial advances in civilization, and it is interesting to -compare their present condition, as given in the last reports of the -Commissioner of Indian Affairs, and from local sources. - -Their numbers have diminished only about one half. No one seeing their -debased condition in 1850 to 1860 (except the Makahs) would have deemed -it possible for them to hold their own so well. - - Makahs 750 - Tulalip Agency, lower Sound Indians 1700 - Puyallup Agency, upper Sound Indians 1850 - ---- - 4300 - -All now wear civilized dress, and live in houses. Many can read and -write, and many of their children attend the reservation schools. - - "Among the Makahs, many of the younger Indians are turning their - attention to farming and raising stock, and many of them have fine - gardens. They still catch a great many fish, sending them to market - in Seattle by steamer, and have caught and shipped as high as 10,000 - pounds in one day. There are few places with so large a population - where so little crime is committed." - -All the reservations on the Sound have now been allotted, and the -Indians are living on their respective allotments. A considerable number -have taken up farms under the homestead laws, or purchased lands from -the whites, and are farming successfully. Such Indians are frequently -seen driving into the towns with good wagons and teams, as well dressed -as the average white rancher, and accompanied ofttimes by their wives -and children. - - "Practically all these Indians dress as civilized men and women, and - live in houses, some of which are good, comfortable, and roomy, - fully equal to the average farm dwellings in prosperous communities - of whites, and from these they grade down to the most squalid shacks - imaginable. Under the influence of the teachers, and the example of - the more advanced Indians and the better class of white neighbors, - there is slow but sure improvement in this particular." - -During the fall hundreds of them congregate on the hop-fields, where -they supply the most reliable hop-pickers, whole families--men, women, -and children--diligently working together. After this harvest crowds of -them flock into the towns, and lay in stores of clothing and provisions -for the winter before returning home.[11] - - [11] Commissioner of Indian Affairs' Report for 1899, pp. - 301-303, 612. - - - The Riverside Press - - _Electrotyped and printed by H.O. Houghton & Co._ - - _Cambridge, Mass, U.S.A._ - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Some compound words (e.g., 'wagon-master') appeared both with and -without a hyphen. They are given as printed. Where a word is hyphenated -on a line break, the hyphen is retained if the preponderance of other -appearances indicate it was intended. - -Illlustrations cannot be reproduced here, but the approximate position -of each is indicated as: [Illustration: <caption>]. - -Footnotes are repositioned at the end of each chapter. They have been -re-numbered consecutively. - -The following minor issues are noted and corrected. - - The name 'Boulineau' was likely misprinted based on that of another - member of Steven's party, Pierre Boutineau. The instance on p. 330 - refers to Paul Boulieau. - - p. 2 there is scar[c]ely a State in the Union Added 'c'. - - p. 28 and Schuyler Hamilton[.] Added full stop - - p. 97 ponto[o]n Added. - - p. 99 Do not fa[l/i]l to Corrected. - - p. 137 about twelve [P.] M. Supplied missing 'P'. - - p. 141 but about nine o'clock[,/.] Corrected. - - p. 182 at good esc[a/o]pette range Corrected. - - p. 210 formid[id]able Removed. - - p. 216 the Cerro [C/G]ordo Corrected. - - p. 330 Bouli[n]eau Removed spurious 'n'. - - p. 373 dress of a chief?["/'] Corrected. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS, -VOLUME I (OF 2)*** - - -******* This file should be named 43589-8.txt or 43589-8.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/3/5/8/43589 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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