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diff --git a/43323.txt b/43323.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 03a3f86..0000000 --- a/43323.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4339 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hints on cheese-making, by Thomas Day Curtis - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Hints on cheese-making - for the dairyman, the factoryman, and the manufacturer - -Author: Thomas Day Curtis - -Release Date: July 27, 2013 [EBook #43323] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HINTS ON CHEESE-MAKING *** - - - - -Produced by Mark C. Orton, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -HINTS ON CHEESE-MAKING, - -FOR THE - -DAIRYMAN, THE FACTORYMAN, - -AND THE MANUFACTURER. - -BY T. D. CURTIS. - -UTICA, N. Y. - -ROBERTS, PRINTER, MORNING HERALD ESTABLISHMENT. - -1870. - - -Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by - -THOMAS DAY CURTIS, - -In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Northern District of -New York. - - - - -INTRODUCTORY. - - -The following pages comprise the series of articles which appeared, -during the last season, in the columns of the UTICA MORNING and WEEKLY -HERALD. It is not claimed that they exhaust the several questions -discussed; but it is believed that they constitute the most practical -treatise on cheese-making that has yet appeared, and that they embrace -the leading features and indicate the more advanced methods of the art -as practiced by the best manufacturers. Every experienced cheese-maker -may find something in them to object to and criticise, as there is -diversity of opinion on many, as yet, not definitely settled questions. -The writer would not check honest and intelligent criticism, if he -could, but, on the contrary, encourage it. Nor would he have others -adopt any of the suggestions, methods or practices herein mentioned, if -they think they have better of their own. He would rather stimulate -independent thought and action, and urge each to observe closely, -experiment thoroughly, and be guided by his own experience. Beginners, -without a complete knowledge of all the branches of cheese-making, it is -believed, will be able to glean from these pages what will afford -valuable assistance to them; but they should accept nothing as -conclusive. There is much to be discovered and learned about -cheese-making. Those who have worked at the business for years, without -material progress, are not as likely to make important discoveries or -improvements as those who now or may hereafter come to a knowledge of -the subject with fresh minds and faculties newly stimulated. They will -begin where the old cheese-makers leave off, and ought to be able to -make advances in the work thus far developed by their predecessors. That -each may keep his wits about him and add something valuable to our -present stock of knowledge in regard to cheese-making, is the earnest -wish of - -THE AUTHOR. - -UTICA, January, 1870. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - PAGE. -INTRODUCTORY, 5 - -BUILDING CHEESE FACTORIES, 9 - -PRODUCTION OF MILK, 14 - -COMPOSITION OF MILK, 18 - -TAINTS AND ODORS, 23 - -COOLING MILK, 27 - -DELIVERING MILK, 31 - -RECEIVING MILK, 36 - -BIG AVERAGES, 40 - -CONDUCTORS, STRAINERS, &C., 45 - -COLOR, 49 - -RENNETS, 55 - -PREPARING RENNET, 60 - -SETTING, 64 - -CUTTING CURDS, 68 - -HEAT, 73 - -ACID, 79 - -DIPPING CURDS, 84 - -SALTING CURDS, 87 - -TAINTED MILK, 91 - -CURING, 93 - -GREASING CHEESE, 95 - -SKIPPERS, 99 - -CHEDDAR PROCESS, 102 - - - - -HINTS ON CHEESE-MAKING. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -BUILDING CHEESE-FACTORIES. - - -We frequently receive inquiries from parties who contemplate building -cheese-factories, regarding certain details which none but those who -have actual experience can readily carry out. For the benefit of all -needing such information, we have taken pains to prepare the following: - -Small or medium-sized factories now seem to be in order. People do not -like to carry milk long distances, and this fact undoubtedly accounts -for the tendency to small factories, conveniently located. We will give -the size of a building suitable for a dairy of 300 to 500 cows. Let it -be 80 by 26 feet, with 16 feet posts and two floors. From one end of the -lower story take 24 feet for a make room, leaving the remainder for a -curing room. Should more than one vat be used, the make room will need -to be about six feet larger one way. It may be made so by taking the -space off from the curing room, or by putting a projection on the side. -The upper story will be used for curing, but should be partitioned off -the same as the lower story. The room over the make room should be -lathed and plastered, and provided with heating apparatus, so as to make -a suitable place for curing early and late made cheese. The building may -be cheap, or as expensive as desired. - -Either setters and ranges, or the old style tables, may be used. The -latter, since small-sized cheeses have come in fashion, are the more -common. They are quite as cheap and convenient, and by using them, -factorymen avoid the annoyance consequent upon the pretended patent -right which is claimed on the rails and turners. - -We shall not recommend any particular style of vat, since by doing so we -should seem to condemn others. But we will mention the fact that for -small factories, vats with self-heaters are preferable and the more -economical. A self-heater can be set up and run anywhere, with a piece -of stove-pipe to conduct off the smoke, and the expense of boilers, -mason-work, etc., is avoided. Five or six cords of maple stove-wood, -split fine and well seasoned, will run a good self-heater through the -season. - -The appearance of a dairy depends very much on the trueness, as well as -uniformity in hight, of the cheeses. Good presses and hoops are -therefore essential, and save a great deal of trouble as well as give a -great deal of satisfaction. The press, therefore, needs to be made heavy -and strong, so as not to spring or warp. Let the sill be 14 by 4 inches; -the beam, 10 by 6 inches; posts, 4 by 14 inches, slanted from the sill -upward to 10, the width of the beam. The sill and beam should be boxed -into the posts three-fourths of an inch, and the posts should extend -above the beam some 4 inches or more. The top of the sill should stand -about 2 feet from the floor. The space between the sill and beam should -be 2 feet 4 inches. The lateral space allowed for each hoop should be 2 -feet; and in each space between the hoops the sill and beam should be -held in place by seven-eighths inch rods of iron. In the first space -from either end, a single rod is sufficient; the next should have two -rods, and so on, alternately. The single rod should extend through the -middle of the sill and beam, and have heavy washers attached to each -end, to prevent the head or nut from settling into the wood. The double -rods should go through the edges of the beam and sill, and through heavy -washers of iron on the bottom of the sill, and through strong straps -extending across the top of the beam. The presses should be made for -pressing four or six cheeses, and be made of hard, seasoned timber. The -screws should be 1-3/4 inch. Of the various kinds of screws introduced, we -know of none better than the old-fashioned ones, with holes through them -to receive the bar. - -The curd-sink is an important thing in a factory. Its construction is -always a matter of considerable speculation and perplexity. We will give -dimensions for one suitable for a factory of the size we have indicated. -It should be 16 feet long, 2 feet 10 inches in width inside, and 1 foot -deep. The bottom should be 1-1/2 inch thick, and the sides 1 inch thick. -The legs should be 3 feet high, extending up the sides, so that the top -of the sink will be 3 feet from the floor. The sink should be made of -clear, seasoned pine, and the legs be well braced, with cross and side -pieces connecting them about 6 inches from the floor. Backs and a cloth -strainer may be used, or a false bottom with perforated tin strainers -may be substituted. - -The proper hight of the weighing can, of the dumping window from the -ground, and the best apparatus for unloading, are generally matters -quite perplexing. The proper hight of the receiving can is that which -gives a gentle slope to the conductor, as too much current not only -causes the milk to slop over the sides of the strainer, but drives the -dirt through the strainer. With vats 3 feet 2 inches high, the platform -for the scales should be 3 feet 8 inches from the floor. - -Of the many appliances used for unloading, none is simpler, cheaper or -more satisfactory than the crane. Make it of scantling 4 by 4 inches, -the upright 8 feet long, and the arm 7 feet. Hang it as you would a -barn-door. Fasten one end of a strong half or three-quarter inch rope to -the end of the arm; run it through a pully to which is attached the -tongs; then over a 4 inch pully above, near the end of the arm; run it -back over a similar pully next to the upright, then down to a 3 inch -roller, with a crank, at a convenient hight for turning. One end of the -crank must be sustained by a strong iron strap, bowing outward, in the -direction of the arm, to admit the roller (about 6 inches long) -lengthwise, and fastened to the upright above and below. - -The window-sill should be not more than two or three inches above the -edge of the receiving-can, which should stand close to the window, just -clearing the sill. The road should be eighteen inches below the platform -on which stand the scales and weighing can. Then the can, when raised -just enough to clear the wagon-box and wheels, will be of the right -hight for dumping when swung round to the window. Many make the mistake -of getting the road too low, which causes the unnecessary work of -raising the milk 3 or 4 feet by hand before it can be dumped, and wastes -strength and time, both in raising the can and lowering it back again -into the wagon after it is emptied. - -In building a factory, every provision should be made for cleanliness. -It should be located near a living spring of water, ranging in -temperature somewhere between 45 deg. and 55 deg.. There should be sufficient -water to fill, at all times, an inch pipe, and care should be taken to -secure a fair head--enough to carry the water above the vats, at least. -The water should be carried in pipes under the building, along by the -ends of the vats where it is wanted, with penstocks rising from the -pipe, to furnish water for each vat. The faucets in the penstocks should -be all of the same hight--if any difference is made, the one farthest -from the head might be a quarter or half an inch the lowest. Outside -should be a penstock, to carry off the superfluous water. The outlet to -this should be a few inches higher than the faucets in the penstocks for -supplying the vats with water. This is necessary to secure a flow of -water in the factory. In freezing weather, and during the winter, the -penstocks in the factory can be removed, until needed for use, and the -holes in the pipe beneath plugged up. An extra faucet in one of the -penstocks at the ends of the vats, inserted high enough from the floor -to set a pail under, will supply all the necessary water for cleaning -and other purposes. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -PRODUCTION OF MILK. - - -The requisites of good milk have been so frequently and fully discussed, -that we need not more than briefly advert to them now. The importance of -good milk, for either cheese or butter, will be conceded, and therefore -the question need not be argued. - -The first requisites of good milk are good cows. But these will -disappoint their owners if they have not good keep. Plenty of good clean -hay and pure water, with warm quarters, are indispensable. The -old-fashioned method of allowing cows, or other cattle, to weather all -kinds of storms, with a snow-bank for a bed at night, we believe is -pretty effectually done away with. It has been found that it does not -pay. It is not yet quite so universally admitted that generous feeding -is equally advantageous, nor that a warm stable is as much an advance on -an open, cold one, where the cows stand and shiver throughout the -twenty-four hours, as a common shelter is an improvement on no shelter. -Yet, a warm stable, which may be had for a small expense, is decided -economy, in the saving of food, as well as a comfort to the cows; and -generous feeding will be found a profitable investment, both by the -increased flow of milk and by its increased richness. A poorly-kept cow -will give less milk than a well-kept one, and its poorer quality will be -more manifest than the diminution in quantity. When turned out to grass, -if the feed should prove good, it will take the cow weeks to build up -her system and get in the condition she should have been in at the -start; and though the quantity and quality of her milk will improve, -she will reach the time when the mess naturally begins to shrink before -she will have thoroughly recuperated. After this, the richness of the -milk will probably be satisfactory. But in case the season should open -dry and cold, so that the grass starts slowly, and is then followed by -the hot dry weather of July and August, as is not unfrequently the case, -a cow that starts "spring poor" will scarcely get in good condition -before the grass is nipped by the fall frosts and it becomes necessary -to begin to fodder. - -There is a marked difference in the quality of the messes of milk -delivered at a cheese-factory. The use of the lactometer and -cream-gauges will show this. It will be an interesting experiment, for -cheese-makers who never tried it, to test in this way the quality of the -milk delivered by the different patrons, and then ascertain the style in -which each keeps his cows, the character of the pastures of each, the -kind of water which the pastures afford--whether brook, river, swamp or -spring--and to note any other facts and conditions which may be apparent -or may suggest themselves. It will be found, we think, that bad -wintering and poor pastures have as much or more to do than anything -else with the production of poor milk. No breed of cows nor selection of -a dairy can wholly counteract these evils. The yield of milk will -undoubtedly be greater and better with some cows than with others; and -so with naturally good cows, good wintering and pasturing will show -quite as marked improvements. - -We have in our mind an instance where, at the opening of a -cheese-factory, only a few of the farmers, having the largest dairies, -delivered milk. They were all men who fed their cows well during the -winter, and gave them meal before and after coming in. The result was -an astonishingly large yield of cheese from milk at that season of the -year. But as the messes increased, and milk from dairies poorly-kept -came in, the yield of cheese in proportion to the number of pounds of -milk steadily diminished. The lactometer and cream-gauges showed that -the poorest milk came from the poorest-kept cows. - -The forepart of the season proved a cold and wet one, which made the -grass more juicy and less nutritious. This, with the accidental or -intentional watering which the milk got from the rain falling in the -cans, either at home or on the road, was also believed to decrease the -yield of cheese. It appeared that milk coming long distances through the -rain, other things being equal, showed more water than that brought -short distances. Manifestly, some sort of shelter to the cans should be -devised, to be used both at home and on the road, during rainy -weather--and the same for keeping off the rays of the sun, in fair -weather, is equally desirable. - -All through the season, in the instance referred to, there was a marked -difference in the quality of the milk of the well-kept and of the -poorly-kept dairies. Swampy pastures also seemed to impoverish the milk. -Those pastures that were dry, with pure water accessible, appeared to -produce the richest milk. While the milk of the best dairies, on being -tested, would indicate a yield of a pound of cheese to eight or nine -pounds of milk, the milk of others would not yield a pound of cheese to -less than eleven or twelve pounds of milk. The average number of pounds -of milk for a pound of cheese, during the season, was about 9.9. - -In the foregoing, will be seen a manifest objection to the factory -system, as at present conducted. The quality of the milk delivered is -nowhere taken into consideration. The man who has a well-selected dairy, -keeps it well, and delivers milk that will turn out, for the season, a -hundred pounds of cheese for every nine hundred pounds of milk, gets no -more returns for a given number of pounds of milk than the man who -delivers milk so poor that twelve hundred pounds of it will not make -more than a hundred pounds of cheese, or the same as the former's nine -hundred pounds. There is a difference of about twenty-five per cent, in -the quality of the milk turned out by the good and the poor dairies, -one-half of which the owner of the former loses, and the other half of -which the owner of the latter gains, by getting his milk made up at the -factory. Some means should be devised for remedying this piece of -injustice, if the better class of dairies is to be retained by the -factories. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -COMPOSITION OF MILK. - - -The composition of milk, though frequently discussed, is not generally -well understood. It is quite variable, not only in the milk from -different cows, but in that from the same cow at different times, and in -different conditions, but especially at different seasons of the year. -It is more buttery in winter, and more cheesy in summer. A cow milked -three times a day would give more in quantity but poorer in quality, -than if milked twice; while one milked twice a day will yield more milk -than if milked once a day, but one milking a day would be the richer. -The first milk drawn from the udder is more watery than what follows; -the last is the richest. The accumulation of milk in the cow's bag is -influenced by the law of gravitation. The water being the heaviest -ingredient, settles to the bottom, and is the first milked; the cream, -which is the lightest, rises, and is the last milked. That is to say, a -partial separation takes place in the udder, sufficient to make the -"strippings" some ten or twelve times as rich in butter as the first -milk drawn. We would, therefore, infer that the first third contains the -most water, the second third the most cheese, and the last third the -most butter. There is said to be a difference in the milk drawn from the -compartments of the udder of the same cow, or from different teats. - -The variation in the composition of milk, of course, is indicated by -different chemical analyses, no two of which can be found to exactly -agree. We give an analysis by HAIDLEN. He found that the specimen -contained, in 1,000 parts, 873 parts of water, 30 of butter, 48.2 of -cheese, 43.9 of sugar of milk, 2.31 of phosphate of lime, .42 of -magnesia, .47 of iron, 1.04 of chloride of potassium, and .66 of sodium -and soda. Other chemists have found albumen among the constituents of -milk, and this ingredient is believed, by many, to be the one that first -commences decaying, in hot weather, and produces, "tainted" milk, -"floating" curds, and "huffy" cheese. Skimmed milk has been found, in -some instances, to contain as high as 97 parts of water in 100, and only -3 per cent. of solids, or cheesy matter. "Swill milk" has been found to -contain as low as 1-1/2 per cent. of butter. An analysis of the first milk -taken from a cow's bag after calving, showed it to consist of 15.1 per -cent. of caseine, or cheese, 2.6 of butter, 2 of mucous matter, and 80.3 -of water. Ordinary pure milk will average about 12-1/2 per cent. of cream. -But it is not unfrequently found to yield 15 to 20 per cent., and even -as high as 25 per cent. of cream has been obtained. If milk yields less -than 10 per cent. of cream, it is below the average, and unprofitable -for butter-making. - -We know of no single instrument that will at once indicate the quality -of milk. What is called the lactometer, but is properly a hydrometer, -will indicate the density of milk, and if its specific gravity in a pure -state be known, it will show the amount of water added, if any. On an -average, milk is about 4 per cent. heavier than water. That is, a -hydrometer with a scale graded at 100 for milk at 60 deg. Farenheit, ought -to sink to 96 in water. The variation in the density of milk will be -shown by an experiment given by CHARLES L. FLINT, in his "Milch Cows and -Dairy Farming." He says: - -"For the purpose of showing the difference in the specific gravity of -different specimens of pure milk, taken from the cows in the morning, -and allowed to cool down to about 60 deg., I used an instrument graduated -with the pure milk mark at 100, with the following results: The first -pint drawn from a native cow stood at 101. The last pint of the same -milking, being the strippings of the same cow, stood at 86. The mixture -of the two pints stood at about 93-1/2. The milk of a pure bred Jersey -stood at 95, that of an Ayrshire at 100, that of a Hereford at 106, that -of a Devon at 111, while a thin cream stood at 66. All these specimens -of milk were pure, and milked at the same time in the morning, carefully -labeled in separate vessels, and set upon the same shelf to cool off; -and yet the variations of specific gravity amounted to 25, or, taking -the average quality of the native cow's milk at 93-1/2, the variations -amounted to 17-1/2." - -It will be seen, by these experiments, that the richer the milk in -butter, the less the specific gravity, thin cream being 30 deg. below the -water mark. The richer the milk in caseine, or cheese, the greater the -specific gravity, the milk of the Devon indicating 15 deg. above the water -mark. Watering milk will of course reduce the specific gravity of milk -rich in cheese, and by this means it can be made to indicate the average -density of pure milk. In the same way, milk rich in butter may have its -specific gravity increased until it nearly reaches that of water, but no -amount of watering can make it indicate over 96 deg., which is the figure -given for pure water. A little salt, or other ingredient, may be added -to bring the density up to the pure milk mark. So the blueness of milk, -produced by either skimming or watering, may be removed by the use of -burnt sugar, which will give it a rich color. Or annotto may be used -for the same purpose. Many expedients have been resorted to, from time -to time, by the dishonest, for the purpose of disguising the -impoverishment of milk by skimming and watering. - -"But," says some one, "why tell dishonest men how they can skim and -adulterate their milk?" We have not done so. We have told honest men -some of the practices of the dishonest, with the view of enabling them -to detect the fraud. True, the hydrometer is not an accurate or legal -test; but it shows the exact density of the milk tried, and this is a -very important point. When you have decided this, by the use of the -cream-gauges, you can determine the amount of cream; and if you let the -milk stand until it coagulates, and the cheese separates from the whey, -you can tell the relative proportion of water and cheese. This may be a -somewhat slow and clumsy process, but it is nevertheless decisive, and -often repays the trouble. Foreign substances, so far as not held in -solution by the water, or not entangled in the cheese or cream, will -settle at the bottom of the glasses. Besides, with these evidences to -start on, the ways of a suspected person can be watched, and he often be -caught in the very act of violating the law, which we quote below: - - - Sec. 1. Whoever shall knowingly sell, supply, or bring to be - manufactured to any cheese manufactory in this State, any milk - diluted with water, or in any way adulterated, or milk from which - any cream has been taken, or milk commonly known as skimmed milk; - or whoever shall keep back any part of the milk known as - "strippings;" or whoever shall knowingly bring or supply milk to - any cheese manufactory that is tainted or partly sour from want of - proper care in keeping pails, strainers, or any vessel in which - said milk is kept, clean and sweet, after being notified of such - taint or carelessness; or any cheese manufacturer who shall - knowingly use, or direct any of his employes to use, for his or - their individual benefit, any cream from the milk brought to said - cheese manufacturer, without the consent of all the owners thereof, - shall, for each and every offense, forfeit and pay a sum not less - than twenty-five dollars, nor more than one hundred dollars, with - costs of suit, to be sued for in any court of competent - jurisdiction, for the benefit of the person or persons, firm or - association or corporation, or their assigns, upon whom such fraud - be committed. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -TAINTS AND ODORS. - - -Whatever be the grade of cows and the quality of milk, much depends upon -its management. A good deal of care and attention are requisite for the -attainment of the best possible results with such milk as we may have to -work up. But before we come to the process of milking, let us look a -moment at the effect of food in regard to taints and the flavor of milk. - -It is now universally conceded, that the flavor as well as the quality -of the milk depends very materially upon the food of the cow. Coarse -swamp-grasses and weeds do not produce as rich or sweet milk as clover, -timothy and red-top, grown on dry upland soil; while swamp-water gives a -ranker flavor than the sweet spring and brook-water of hilly regions. -Leeks are not the only weeds which taint the milk before it is taken -from the cow. All rank vegetable growths lend a similar influence to -injure flavor. Indeed, that which the cow eats is what she makes the -milk of, and if these offensive things are taken into her system, she -cannot be expected to turn out milk that will not partake of their -qualities, any more than a man can be expected to make sweet cider of -sour apples by running them through the mill and press. Even the -atmosphere which the cows breathe affects the flavor of the milk. -Carrion in the lot where the cows feed has been known to impart its odor -to the milk of the dairy. Dirty stables and barnyards, the odor of which -is breathed by the cows, makes the milk "taste of the barnyard," as the -common expression goes. - -It becomes of the greatest importance, therefore, that cows should have -clean, sweet pastures to feed in, and clear spring or brook-water to -drink; also, that they should have clean, well-ventilated stables to -stand in, and be milked in clean yards or stables, as free from all -taints and bad odors as possible. The cows should not be heated by -hurried driving with a dog, or by a man or boy on horseback, as this -fevers the milk, giving it an unwholesome quality, leading to rapid -decay as well as producing bad flavor. - -And, if quantity as well as quality is to be attained, pastures must -contain plenty of feed, so that the cow can soon fill her stomach and -then lie down or stand in the shade and ruminate at ease, instead of -working constantly from morning to night to gather food enough to -satisfy her. She must have water handy, instead of away back in some -retired corner of a large pasture, as she naturally wants to drink a few -swallows quite often, in warm weather, but will go until she gets -excessively dry and feverish before she will travel a long distance to -get water. When thus very dry, she drinks an inordinate quantity, which -makes her feel heavy and uncomfortable--and whatever annoys a cow -lessens the flow and reduces the quality of the milk. - -A little reflection must make these things apparent to every reasoning -mind. Cows must have plenty of clean, wholesome food and pure water, and -must be every way made comfortable and contented, if the largest flow -and best quality of milk is expected. The cow is sure to show, not only -her own naturally good or bad qualities, but her keep and care, in the -milk pail. There is no cheating her. She will make a corresponding -discount or dividend on every iota of ill or good treatment she -receives. In this, she is an exact accountant, and she will insist upon -keeping the account square. - -Milk requires not only favorable conditions for its production, as above -indicated, but needs great care and cleanliness after it is drawn from -the cows. A foul yard or stable will impart its odors to the milk. -Uncleanliness in milking not only gets filth into the milk, but taints -and injures its flavor. Some, for this reason, recommend washing the -cow's bag before milking. But if this washing is done with cold water by -the milker, it is quite likely to consume time, cool the bag and cause -the cow to hold up a portion of the mess. Experience shows that the -quicker the milk can be drawn, after the operation is commenced, the -better the yield. If washing is done, it should be with warm or tepid -water, and be the work of one person, who should go through the whole -dairy in advance of the milkers. But, in our opinion, where the stable -or yard is kept clean, a careful brushing of the bag with the hands -before beginning, and care in holding the pail a little toward you from -under the teats, will obviate all the evils of uncleanliness from -milking; and, certain it is, where all the surroundings are dirty, no -amount of washing the cow's bag will get rid of the bad effects of the -odors arising from the filth. Clean quarters for milking are -indispensable to the furnishing of sweet, nice-flavored milk. - -Cleanliness in all the pails, cans, strainers, and whatever comes in -contact with the milk, is equally necessary. Thorough washing, not -omitting the use of soap, scalding and airing, are the only things that -will keep them sweet and free from taint. All implements and utensils -should be as free from sharp corners as possible, as these are difficult -to clean, and taints are apt to be left in them to come in contact with -the new milk and infect it, as a small quantity of yeast leavens a batch -of bread. The milk will, therefore, soon begin to ferment, producing one -of the worst conditions which the cheese-maker has to contend with, and -rendering it impossible for him to make firm, clean-flavored cheese of -the milk. In no case should wooden vessels be used for milk. The wood -will absorb the milk, and no amount of washing and scalding will get it -entirely out. What remains will get frowy and impart its infection to -the warm milk and cause it to rapidly taint. Tin vessels are the best of -anything yet devised, and are recommended universally by the best -dairymen and by the American Dairymen's Association. Those with pressed -or round bottoms, having no inside angles for ferments to collect in, -are preferable. These can be obtained for a trifle if any more money -than common tin pails cost, and should receive the preference of -dairymen when purchasing. - -In short, the greatest care should be taken to have all things strictly -clean--not only those that come in contact with the milk, but those -surrounding it. The milkers should be as clean, careful and expeditious -as possible, avoiding all unnecessary or unusual motions, and everything -calculated to alarm or excite the cows. Then, if the cows have had -proper food, drink, care and treatment, there is little reason to -apprehend anything objectionable in either the quantity or quality of -the milk. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -COOLING MILK. - - -The management of milk, when once obtained, is the great practical -consideration with the farmer and cheese-maker. But the first handling -and care devolve upon the farmer; the cheese-maker's duties begin with -the delivery of the milk at the factory. Much, very much, depends upon -the treatment of the milk after milking, and the consequent condition in -which it is delivered. We will therefore begin at the stable or yard and -follow the milk through all its stages, until it is run into the -weighing-can. - -Previous suggestions as to cleanliness, etc., being adopted, we find the -hot milk in the pails ready to be strained into the can standing on the -platform or in the wagon. We say "strained," because this is necessary -to absolute cleanliness, which affects the flavor, though at some -factories the patrons are directed not to strain the milk, for the -reason that poor care is so often taken of the strainer, and the keeping -of the strainer drawn tight over the top of the can prevents cooling and -hastens taint. For this reason, we would recommend the use of -strainer-pails, unless the cloth strainer can be stretched above the can -so as to allow the heat to escape and the cool air to come in. These -precautions should be observed, most certainly, if no means is adopted -for cooling the milk before starting for the factory. - -The subject of cooling and airing milk has long been earnestly -discussed, and the importance of cooling, at least, we believe is -universally conceded. But how is this end to be attained, with the -thermometer indicating an average temperature of 80 deg., and perhaps -higher? The first and simplest suggestion is to set the can in a tub of -cold water--cold spring or well-water, or iced water--and to give the -milk frequent agitation with a dipper or other convenient article, care -being taken to stir it from the bottom, as the cold milk naturally -settles, and of course the hot milk lies on the top. Gentle agitation -secures the advantage, also, of preventing the cream from rising. This -makes trouble, and consumes a little time, but we believe the result -will well repay both. - -The milk-can should, by all means, be kept out of the sun's rays, and in -a clean airy place. As to the importance of airing milk, there is a -difference of opinion. Some assert that the airing is beneficial only so -far as it assists in cooling, and that if we can succeed in cooling the -milk down to 60 deg., or thereabouts, immediately after milking, we shall -attain all the good results apparent from exposure to the air. All the -"animal odors," they say, disappear. Be that as it may, it is scarcely -possible to cool milk without more or less exposure to the atmosphere, -and we have never heard it claimed that any bad consequences follow this -exposure. It is possible, however, that it may more rapidly absorb -oxygen, and thus sooner sour. The probability is, that any process which -will secure the proper cooling will also afford the necessary exposure -for the escape of all animal or other odors likely to pass off in the -form of gas. Therefore, practically, it is of very little importance -whether we consider the question of airing milk, in any of the stages of -its management. So we will first look after the processes which secure -known advantages. - -Several inventions for the purpose of cooling milk have made their -appearance within the past year or two. Some for the use of factories, -which seem to work quite satisfactorily, and others for the use of -farmers, none of which, we believe, have yet been received with much -favor. They are mostly too complicated, if not too expensive, and too -difficult to keep clean, to ever become generally adopted. Yet, enough -has already been developed to convince us that the desideratum, of a -satisfactory apparatus for cooling milk as fast as, or soon after, it is -taken from the cow, can be realized. The great trouble is, to make -farmers use it faithfully, if at all. - -The cooling of milk as fast as milked, or very soon afterward, is the -great question now presented to farmers and cheese-makers. It is of -quite as much and more consequence, than keeping it cool at the -factory--for milk is often so far advanced in decomposition, if not -actually sour or tainted, when received, that it is impossible to work -it up satisfactorily. Some Yankee must give us a simple and cheap -apparatus that will effect the desired result. Such an invention will -greatly improve the quality and increase the consumption and price of -American cheese. But, in the absence of anything better, the can set in -a tub of water and the milk frequently stirred, would be a great -improvement on starting for the factory with hot milk. If the water can -be made to constantly run into the tub, fresh and cool, as the warm -water runs out, so much the better. Another improvement would be some -kind of wagon-cover, permitting the air to pass under it, to keep off -the sun in clear weather and keep out the rain in wet weather. The hot -rays of the sun, pouring on a can of milk for the distance of two or -three miles, perhaps--especially if the milk is not cooled before -starting--cannot fail to do it serious injury. Milk thus exposed often -has a very offensive smell when it reaches the factory-door. This shows -that it is already tainted and in a condition to injure the good milk in -the vat into which it is run, and cause a porous or "huffy" curd. - -The question as to the effect of suddenly cooling milk has been somewhat -discussed; also as to how low a temperature is beneficial. Experiments -are necessary to definitely and satisfactorily settle these questions. -Our impression is that, if ice is not used, there is no danger of -cooling milk too suddenly or of getting it too cool. But where ice is -used, especially if permitted to come in contact with the milk, or even -to be separated from it only by a thickness of tin, there is danger of -chilling the particles of milk in immediate contact with the cold -surface, and causing them to prematurely decay. This would, of course, -injure the keeping qualities of the rest of the batch. So far as the -suddenness of the operation is concerned, we doubt if it would have any -material effect, one way or the other. But where any portion of the milk -is chilled, whether the whole batch of milk be slowly or suddenly -reduced in temperature, we should expect it to injure the flavor and -keeping qualities of the cheese. Some experiments, like the one made and -related by Mr. FARRINGTON, of Canada, at the last Convention of the -American Dairymen's Association, would seem to favor the conclusion, -that suddenly reducing the milk to a low temperature is unfavorable to -the production of the best quality of cheese. More experiments, as we -have previously suggested, are necessary to finally settle these -questions. But of the importance of cooling milk down to as low a -temperature as 60 deg. to 65 deg., there can be no doubt; and there need be no -fear of milk being cooled rapidly enough to injure it where only water -is used in the process of cooling. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -DELIVERING MILK. - - -Very little attention is usually paid to carrying milk to the factory. -Too many pour the hot milk into a can standing on a wagon or platform, -in the broiling sun, put on the cover, which fits almost air-tight, as -soon as through, and then haul it in this condition, without any shelter -or protection from the sun's rays, to the factory. It is sometimes drawn -two or three miles in this way. Or, as is often the case, it is left -standing on the platform, covered air-tight, until the milk-wagon comes -along. Whether taken on the wagon at the beginning of the route, or left -standing on the platform at the last end of the route, it broils in the -sun an hour or two, with the animal heat all in it. If drawn a long -distance, it is pretty well churned, in addition, and thus a separation -of the butter takes place which no ingenuity of the cheese-maker can -remedy; but when the result is seen in the cream rising on the whey-vat, -anathemas are heaped on his head. Where the milk stands quiet on the -platform, the cream rises and forms an air-tight covering over the top -of the milk, which soon taints next to the cream. And whether standing -still or riding in a tight can, exposed to the sun's rays, without the -animal heat having been expelled, it is scarcely possible to avoid -taint. - -In this way, the manufacturer is furnished with perhaps fifty or -seventy-five messes of milk, all more or less tainted, or at least -progressed in decomposition, whether any offensive odor is perceptible -or not. He has these to cool off and keep over night--often with poor -facilities for cooling--for proprietors of factories are too often -ignorant of the importance of providing ample means for cooling, or are -too eager for large profits on small investments, to furnish them. So -the operator dips and stirs away at the decomposing mass until ten or -eleven o'clock, if not later, and finally yields to "tired nature's -sweet restorer, balmy sleep," to rest his weary muscles and care-worn -brain--exhausted, perhaps, by months of incessant toil seven days every -week. By five the next morning he must be on hand, to receive the -scattering messes of milk. At seven or eight o'clock comes the rush. -Then the messes begin to drop off, and by half-past nine or ten o'clock -the last steaming batch, with an unmistakable rotten-egg smell, makes -its appearance. - -Now, what has the cheese-maker got on his hands, some sweltering -morning, during the season when it is "too hot to make butter," and -people kindly draw their dairy liquids to the cheese-factory? Why, on -rising in the morning and rubbing open his eyes, he breaks the cream on -his milk. The under surface has a sickish, sour smell, which tells him -very plainly that it cannot be worked up too soon. But what is he to do? -The answer is plain enough: Run into this fermenting mass an equal -quantity of the same hot stuff which he received the night before! What -will be its condition by the time he gets through? No matter! It is his -business to make cheese of it. He is employed for that purpose. If the -cheese does not prove of the first quality, every patron who furnishes -him stinking milk will have strong suspicions that he does not -understand his business! And some even insist that the cheese-maker -shall pay for all the poor cheese! But any man who is fool enough to -make such an agreement, ought to suffer, at least one season. The -thought of it, however, is almost "enough to make a minister swear." -And, by the way, we have been told of one instance where a minister left -the pulpit and took to the cheese-factory--probably for the purpose of -practically learning a lesson of patience. He was simple-minded enough -to agree to pay for all the poor cheese. He soon found his salary was -not equal to such a demand. So he set himself about watching the -weighing-can, to keep out the bad milk. This was a Herculean task he had -not counted on. We are not informed whether he swore or not; but he -actually took his station outside, with a heavy rod of iron, which he -was compelled to use, on one or two occasions, to keep the patrons from -running rotten milk into the weighing-can! His experience was an -instructive one, and ought to be a warning to all ambitious clergymen, -as well as to innocent-minded cheese-makers! - -We do not mean to say, that the patrons of all factories are as bad as -above indicated, nor that they are no better on an average. But we do -mean to say, that too many are very careless, and that almost every -factory has a few patrons whose milk is apt to be in a bad condition -when delivered. Besides, while we hear frequent complaints about bad -milk, we never hear of any one's delivering milk in too good a -condition. Patrons need have no fears of this, and may take it for -granted that they cannot take too much pains with milk, both in point of -cleanliness and of keeping it out of the hot sun and expelling the -animal heat. We should expect to find, if a careful investigation were -made, that the most unsuccessful factories are those where milk is -delivered in the worst condition, while the successful ones are those -where patrons are more careful and the milk received is generally good. -More often depends on the milk than on the cheese-maker. We have heard -it remarked, that "almost anybody can make good cheese of perfectly -sweet milk;" but it is a smart chap indeed who can make good cheese of -poor milk. Every cheese-maker will appreciate our remarks, and we hope -they may not be altogether lost on some patrons. - -It will not, as a general thing, pay to draw milk over two or two and a -half miles, for two reasons: First, it consumes too much valuable time, -and next, it churns the milk too much and keeps it too long shut up -tight and exposed to the hot atmosphere, if not the sun. If milk, -however, were thoroughly cooled as soon as milked, and then carried on -easy springs over a smooth road, there is little doubt that it might be -drawn four or five miles without much injury, but the expense would be a -serious objection to going so long a distance. - -Cans that hold over a barrel will be found inconvenient. It is better to -use two smaller ones, that can be easily handled, than one very large -one. They will cost but little more, and will last considerably longer, -as the strain on them will be less. A large can is made of the same -material, and is but little if any stronger from additional bracing and -staying, and is liable to spring aleak. - -As to the use of faucets, it is generally objected to by cheese-makers, -as too little pains is taken by many to keep them clean. Their use is, -therefore, discarded as far as possible, and we believe cans are -generally made without them. Yet, some factories still continue -receiving milk through conductors, where, of course, faucets are -necessary. They are also a convenience to the patron, in many instances, -where the can may be used for other purposes than holding milk. It is, -therefore, not likely that their use will ever be entirely done away -with. But, if neatly and smoothly put in, and care is observed in -cleaning them, there can be no serious objection to them. Small faucets, -however, should never be tolerated. Nothing smaller than inch-and-a-half -or two-inch faucets should be put in. These are easy to clean, and -greatly facilitate emptying. A small spiteful stream is a nuisance, and -causes a waste of time at the factory door where expedition is what -everybody wants, and is what is needed. If you use a faucet, use a large -one, and keep it scrupulously clean. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -RECEIVING MILK. - - -Most factories now unload milk by the use of cranes or some other kind -of tipping apparatus. Some of the older factories--there are no very old -ones--continue the use of conductors for transferring the milk to the -weighing-can. This is the easier but the slower way, and necessitates -the use of at least double the number of weighing-cans that are required -by the crane. Besides, in the use of conductors, there is the constant -inconvenience of standing out in the rain, in wet weather, to hold the -conductor, while there is more or less liability to accident from the -backing up or starting of the team. Conductors are mean, even -impossible, things to clean; and their use, when there is a rush of -teams, requires a second man or boy to hold them, while the first does -the weighing and makes the necessary entries on the milk-book. If sixty -to eighty messes are to be received, at least two weighing cans will be -necessary. But by the use of a crane, one weighing-can will do the same -work--always provided it has a faucet of not less than three inches in -diameter, so that the can may be emptied while a team is driving up and -the patron's can is being grappled and elevated ready for tipping. A -large faucet is of equal advantage when conductors are used, and, in -that case, every patron's can should be furnished with at least a -two-inch faucet, to facilitate the transfer of milk to the weighing-can. - -The use of the crane is, of course, not entirely free from accident. The -strain on the can, when full, is very great, and it is liable to spring -aleak, unless well made. But cans made with reference to this use are -now furnished with crowning or with patent bottoms, and are so well -hooped and braced that no serious accidents of this kind are likely to -occur. A can-ear, or a rope long in use, may break. There may be -carelessness in hooking on to the can, and the milk may be slopped or -spilled by letting a full can turn over too soon, or by too suddenly -letting the milk dash into the weighing-can. All these operations -require care and experience; but, with proper management, the loss from -accident, during a season, will be very slight--perhaps nothing at all. - -Great care should be taken in weighing milk, to not only weigh it right, -but to make the patron feel that his milk is honestly weighed, and that -he is likewise honestly credited on the milk-book. Much suspicion and -hard feeling are liable to spring up, if the man who weighs the milk has -the appearance of being hasty and careless--especially if he should be -ill-natured and disagreeable in his manners. And it may not be out of -place here to remark, that good manners and a spirit of accommodation -are no more out of place in a cheese-factory than anywhere else. Among a -large number of patrons, it would be strange if there were not -disagreeable, ill-mannerly men; but a man who retains his -self-possession and always acts fairly and talks reasonably, will seldom -fail to get along tolerably well and retain the good will of all. It is -the right of the patron to know that his milk is correctly weighed and -credited, and every reasonable facility should be afforded him to -satisfy himself that he is fairly dealt with. - -It becomes the duty of one receiving milk to see that it is delivered in -proper condition. Experience, a good eye and a good nose, are all -useful assistants. Even with the use of all these, messes will sometimes -get into the vat that never ought to be there. But when a patron's milk -is found not to be right, it is not necessary to insult or abuse him, -nor to make a general exposure of him. Neither law nor duty requires -this. He should be kindly informed of the fact, told what the matter is -with his milk and what he had better do to remove the evil. If you do -not wish to take the mess, you can express your regrets at his -misfortune, and show him that it would cause great damage, some of which -must necessarily fall on himself. If the mess is objectionable, but will -pass, give him notice that you will be obliged to refuse it in future, -if not in a better condition. When you have done this, more words with -him are unnecessary, and you have all the advantage, for the law and the -community are on your side. But, with a reasonable man, it will not be -necessary to more than call his attention to the fact that his milk is -bad. The cause may be the result of accident or oversight on the part of -his help, and he will at once set himself to work to apply the remedy. -The importance of delivering milk in good condition is more and more -acknowledged every year, and not a few patrons pride themselves on -delivering as good milk as any of their neighbors. It is well to -encourage this feeling by giving every man credit who takes pains with -his milk. Nothing is worse than wholesale denunciation and fault -finding. It only discourages many, creates bad feeling, and makes an -up-hill road a rough one as well. A cheese-maker needs friends, if -anybody does; and if he does not get them among his patrons, he is not -likely to get them at all. In that case, his seven days a week of hard, -thankless toil and care are likely to weigh heavily on body and mind. - -The greatest difficulty is usually experienced in old factories, where -the conveniences are not generally up to the more modern mark, and -patrons fell into bad habits before experience had developed a better -knowledge of the requirements of cheese-making. New patrons will submit -to be trained, and a sensible cheese-maker, who knows what he wants, can -generally get them to do almost anything at the opening of a new -factory. In this way, he can discipline them and get them in the habit -of taking good care of their milk. But, in an old factory, where -everything started off badly, the old adage, that "it is hard to learn -old dogs new tricks," is apt to be exemplified. They dislike -innovations, think a new man, who wants to be particular, wishes to put -them to useless trouble, and they are not disposed to gratify him, but -rather to growl at him, and feel that what was good enough for others is -good enough for him. Such conduct is all wrong, and those who are guilty -of it stand in their own light. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -BIG AVERAGES. - - -It is the custom in many factories to balance the scales so that a pound -or so is taken out of each mess, in order to help make "a big average" -for the season. That is, every mess is made to weigh a pound or so less -than its actual weight, and is so entered on the book. In this way, if -sixty or seventy messes are received, the cheese-maker has that number -of pounds of milk more to make up than is charged against him. This -amount twice a day would enable him to turn out some twelve or fourteen -pounds of cheese more than he ought to if he received no more pounds of -milk than he gives credit for on the milk-book. Thus he makes it appear -to the patrons, and publishes it ultimately to the world, that he uses -less pounds of milk in making a pound of cheese than is the actual fact. -In common phrase, he "makes a big average." - -Let us illustrate a little. Suppose ten hundred and ten pounds of milk -are delivered in ten messes. The entry on the book is one thousand -pounds. Out of this he makes one hundred and one pounds of cured cheese. -If the milk had been correctly weighed, the fact would appear that he -made one pound of marketable cheese for every ten pounds of milk. But it -really appears that it took a fraction less than ten pounds of milk, or -9.9 pounds, for a pound of cheese. This is the advantage which he has, -in the eyes of the community, over the maker who gives honest weight. -This is the reward of his petty dishonesty. - -In justification of this, it is argued that it keeps up not only the -reputation of the maker but the reputation of the factory, while it -wrongs no one, since the patrons get all the cheese, or its equivalent -in money, and all are served alike. We admit that the patrons get all -the products of the milk, but let us see for a moment whether all are -treated fairly. Every patron has a pound of milk deducted from each -mess. SMITH brings a hundred pound mess, and is therefore docked one -hundredth part of it. JONES, with only one cow, delivers a ten pound -mess, and is docked one-tenth of it. Thus, at the end of thirty days, -each has delivered sixty messes. SMITH has delivered 6,000 pounds and -been credited for 5,940. JONES has delivered 600 pounds, and got credit -for 540. If ten pounds of milk make one pound of cheese, the account -ought to stand thus: - - - Smith, 6000 lbs. milk, 600 lbs. cheese. - Jones, 600 lbs. milk, 60 lbs. cheese. - --- - Total, 660 - - -But, under the system of deducting a pound from each mess, in order to -show a "big average," the account really stands thus: - - - Smith, 5,940 lbs. milk, 605 lbs. cheese. - Jones, 540 lbs. milk, 55 lbs. cheese. - --- - Total, 660 - - -At twenty cents a pound for cheese, JONES, because he is poor and -delivers a small mess, loses just one dollar on his month's milk, and -SMITH, because he is better off and has a bigger mess, gets the dollar -added to his profits. This, in plain figures, is the result of deducting -weight in order to show a "big average." Let no one who reads this do it -again. He can no longer plead ignorance, and continue to rob PETER for -the benefit of PAUL, under the supposition that he is treating all alike -and fairly. - -Unquestionably, something should be allowed for the difference between a -dry and a wet can. The amount is trifling, and can be got at by -balancing the scales immediately after running out a can of milk. But, -when the scales are balanced with a wet can, they will not balance -exactly when the can is dry; and whoever delivers the first mess and -wets the can will suffer a slight loss, unless care is taken to give -good weight. The variation will generally not be more than a quarter of -a pound or so, and can be nearly enough approximated by attention to the -fractions of a pound denoted by the scales. - -Of course, in weighing milk, only the full pounds can be counted and -credited, the fractions going to make up full weight. As quick weight is -demanded in selling cheese, milk when received should be weighed in the -same way. This is fair, and ought to be satisfactory to all. But whether -quick or slow weight is given, let it be honest. In the long run, -"honesty is the best policy" in weighing milk as well as in other -transactions; and, in this case, it is absolutely essential to justice. -A little deduction or variation on a single mess, is of small -consequence; but "many mickles make a muckle," and when the variation -from a correct standard is constantly in one direction, after a while it -amounts to a noticeable quantity. - -Occasionally a mess of milk will get run into the vat without weighing, -by the weigher forgetting to close the gate or faucet. When an accident -of this kind happens, there is no fairer way than to give credit for an -average mess as compared with the messes at the same time of day -previously. If the patron is a fair man, there will be little trouble in -hitting upon a satisfactory figure. If disposed to make the most of a -mistake, he will be likely to tell you that he thought he had a larger -mess than usual, and crowd you up to as high a figure as possible. But -one has to exercise his best judgment, and give such credit as he thinks -will wrong no one. Such mistakes, though almost unavoidable, are -unpleasant to one who is sensitive and wishes to keep the good side of -all; and not only care should be taken, but every precaution should be -used, to prevent them. The handle or lever for closing the gate should -be in full sight, and one should acquire the habit of working -systematically, so that he may instinctively do what is necessary, even -though his attention be for the moment diverted from his business. - -Great care is required, too, in making the entries in the milk book. A -mess, by carelessness, may be credited to the wrong man; but when the -man to whom the credit is wrongfully given presents himself, the mistake -is likely to be discovered, though you may not be able to determine at -once to whom the credit belongs. In such case, preserve the figures, and -when your messes are all in, turn over the leaves of the book and see -who is without credit. The size of the mess is generally some -indication. One is liable, too, to make a mistake of fifty or a hundred -pounds in looking at the scales. But the habit of comparing every entry -with the previous ones as you make it, will show the discrepancy. Where -such variation is noticed, of course another glance at the weight will -determine whether it is a mistake or not. It is a very good practice to -call out the weight of each mess. This affords satisfaction to the -patron as well as guards against allowing errors to pass. But, under -all circumstances, too much attention cannot be paid to keeping the -milk-book correctly. It is the only guide to the distribution of the -proceeds of the factory, and the thought of even a possible mistake -ought to give an honest man a strong sense of responsibility. No bank -book is of more importance. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -CONDUCTORS, STRAINERS, ETC. - - -When treating of receiving milk, we spake of conductors as difficult to -clean. We consider them an abomination in a cheese factory; yet almost -every factory uses them. We believe there are some, however, arranged -for delivering and receiving milk by driving through one end of the -factory. The milk is brought in small cans, out of which it is poured -into the weighing-can by hand. The weighing-can is on a truck running on -a railway along the sides or ends of the vats, into which the milk is -readily emptied by tipping. This does away with both faucets and -conductors, and the idea is worthy the attention of all factorymen. - -When cranes are used in receiving milk, the outside conductors are not -needed, but there are two or three long conductors, inside the factory, -used for running the milk from the weighing-can into the vats. Sometimes -we see one of these tin tubes ten or fifteen feet long. It is impossible -to keep such a thing clean. A peep into this, or shorter ones, will show -that they are not kept clean. Take as much pains as the hands may to -clean them with a swab on a long stick, they will soon get coated over -inside by the milk drying on; and, unless extra pains is taken, they -will be lined with a beautiful coating of green and gold! They are used -at night, and, unless the weather is very bad--and many pay no attention -to the weather--they are allowed to stand over night where used, ready -for the next morning. The milk and cream get dried on the inside -surface, and nobody has the time, if the disposition, to soak it off. -Further, tin conductors will get dents in them. The milk will collect -and dry in the angles made by these dents. How, in the name of common -sense, can any one get at them to clean them, in a tube ten or even four -feet long? It is an impossibility. The milk collects, from day to day, -until the conductor is full of foul ferments, through which all the milk -of the factory is run and tainted. It is no fault of the cheese-maker, -because he can't help it, if he employs a hand constantly on these -abominable tubes. He may use a swab with strong ley, or salt and water, -or both, and run hot water through the tubes till the patrons begin to -come with their milk, but the "damned spots" will not "out." Of course, -he will somewhat neutralize their active properties as ferments, but he -does not altogether get rid of them. The only way in which he can do it, -is to pitch the nasty things out of the window. - -If conductors must be used--and their use seems to be a foregone -conclusion--let them be made in the form of open spouts. A foot or so -next to the head, is all the tube that is needed--and this should be -large enough to readily admit the hand for the purpose of washing. The -rest should be an open spout, which can be easily and speedily cleaned -and scalded. Many owners of factories, however, are too penurious to -spend a few dollars in order to get rid of this nuisance of long tin -conductors. They would rather lose--or, at least, run the risk of -losing--five hundred dollars on the sale of their cheese, than spend -five dollars for the purpose of avoiding this fruitful source of taint. -If the cheese is poor, the blame can be laid on the cheese-maker; or, if -the taint is too manifest in the vat of milk or curd, it can be charged -upon the carelessness of the patrons. - -There is another source of trouble, which lies entirely with the -cheese-maker, or with the hands under him whom he trusts. This is the -strainer. In cool weather, perhaps there will be no difficulty, if the -strainer is properly washed, scalded and dried each morning after the -milk is all in. But in hot weather, especially if the atmosphere is damp -and steamy, if a strainer is left over night without rinsing, it is sure -to sour. Yet, the strainer, like the conductor, is often left at night -just as used, ready for the reception of the next morning's milk. Both -are likely to be sour. The milk in the vat is "old," especially next the -cream, which acts as an air-tight covering. Now, run hot milk through -the sour can, conductor and strainer, into this mess of changed milk, -and any one, with even but a modicum of brains, can see what is likely -to be the consequence. It will be a batch of sour, leaky cheese. - -Where an agitator is used, the trouble of milk souring or tainting -beneath an air-tight covering of cream, is obviated. Washing cans, -conductors and strainers at night, gets rid of the difficulty from these -sources--that is, as far as the can and strainer are concerned, and -partially as regards the conductor. A thorough rinsing in cold water, -immediately after the last mess is run in, will be found to answer the -purpose. It is usually late, and there is no hot water for regular -washing and scalding. But a few moments' work will complete the rinsing -in cold water, and this will not be found a very hard task for even the -jaded hands of a cheese-factory. During all the hot weather, this should -be strictly attended to. It will pay in a double sense--it will prevent -sourness, and make the can, conductor and strainer easier to wash the -next day. - -The old-fashioned thermometer is also a source of annoyance, if care is -not taken in cleaning it. It will fill up with ferments between the face -and back, in an astonishingly short space of time, during hot weather. -In short, there is no way of keeping it perfectly clean, except by -slipping the thermometer out of the back or case, and carefully washing -and scalding it--and in doing this, it is exceedingly liable to get -broken. We are therefore glad to notice the introduction of a new -thermometer for dairy purposes. It is simply constructed, plain, easy to -clean, and no more expensive than the common kind now in use. Those in -need of thermometers will find this style much better adapted to their -uses. The glass is fastened to a plain plate of metal, the two edges of -which are bent forward to give it the requisite stiffness. - -Of course, agitators, dippers, rakes, &c., need to be carefully cleaned. -But we have before spoken of the importance of the most scrupulous -attention to cleanliness throughout, on the part of the cheese-maker as -well as of the patron. Cleanliness is an indispensable virtue in all -departments of dairying. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -COLOR. - - -One would hardly think of associating cheese-making with the fine arts; -yet, in what other light can we view the subject of color? It adds -nothing to the quality of the cheese, but rather detracts from it. It is -expensive and troublesome, and grows more so every year, as the demand -for annotto runs up the price and leads to adulteration. But as long as -we make cheese for a foreign market, we must adapt our goods to the -tastes of that market, whether they be physical or mental. Our home -market would, perhaps, not suffer from the omission of color; but the -English market demands, to a large extent, highly-colored cheese. The -Liverpool market will take a small quantity of pale cheese, but it does -not equal more than one-fifth of the demand of the English market. A few -factories, which sell exclusively to buyers who supply the Liverpool -demand for pale cheese, may safely omit the color; but all which depend -on the general market cannot safely do so. The London market specially -demands a high color, and it is no less exacting now than it has been -heretofore. The cry of buyers generally is, "Keep up the color!" The -exceptions to this are few, and are confined to those who have special -orders for pale cheese to supply the demand above indicated. - -The English consumer acquired his taste for golden-hued cheese before -the American make found any considerable market abroad--indeed, before -we had much cheese to sell. The first object in coloring seems to have -been to give a rich butter color. In this way, cheese was made to -appear rich whether it really was so or not. But the shade has been -considerably intensified and the English eye is best pleased with the -color produced by the use of prime annotto, with which it has become -familiar. This may be a prejudice, but it is a comparatively harmless -one; and since our customer is willing to pay for it, there seems to be -no good reason why it should not be gratified. It is for our interest to -please the eye as well as the appetite of so large a buyer of our -products as England. She wants about four-fifths of her cheese highly -but nicely colored. - -The complaint among buyers generally is, that color is too low. In reply -to suggestions about the fact, makers often say that they never used -more coloring, but it does not produce the desired effect. They have -paid a high price for what was supposed to be prime annotto, but it -proves to be extensively adulterated, and therefore weak. This is not -the complaint of all, but of many. Some have adopted the use of prepared -annotto, and find it cheaper and more satisfactory. When prime annotto -could readily be had, it was cheaper to buy the basket and prepare it -themselves. But now, one poor basket, during a season, imposes a loss -greater than the difference in price between the prepared and the -unprepared. - -There is another evil about the use of poor annotto. It is not only -expensive and does not give the desired color, but what color it does -give fades out with age, and leaves the cheese with a cloudy, mottled -appearance, which is very offensive to the eye of our best customers. -Again, where poor annotto is bought in the basket and prepared at the -factory, it contains a large amount of sediment, and this sediment, -often containing deleterious substances, too frequently gets into the -cheese. The liquid is not properly settled and racked off. This affords -another argument in favor of buying prepared annotto, which, if properly -put up, is free from sediment. - -Those who prefer to buy the basket annotto and prepare it themselves, -should buy only on the warrant of the dealer that it is what it is -recommended to be. The dealer should test a sample of his annotto, -before offering it for sale, and know precisely what he is selling. -Buyers by thus purchasing only of well-known dealers, who sell upon -honor, will discourage rascality. This is the only method we see for -keeping the spurious article out of market, and securing satisfactory -results in coloring. - -We would suggest to those who prepare their own annotto, that they use -concentrated ley or potash. By doing so, they will secure just as good a -shade as they can by using ley from wood-ashes, and not only save the -trouble of bothering with a leach, but secure uniform strength. Two -leaches will seldom turn out ley of the same strength. Sometimes it will -be strong and satisfactory. But if you happen to get a lot of soft wood -ashes in your leach, the ley will be weak, imperfectly dissolve the -annotto, and materially injure the liquid. - -In fact, it is difficult to get your coloring twice alike by the use of -a common leach. But with concentrated ley or potash, the same quantities -or proportions of materials, mixed in the same way, will produce the -same result. You can therefore keep your color even, and will not be -called upon to experiment and change your hand every time you prepare a -new batch of annotto. The difference in expense will be trifling, and -rather in favor of the use of potash, if time and trouble are counted of -any value. - -The prepared annotto ought to be kept in a stone jar, as the ley -operates injuriously upon wood, and is liable to leave a tub in a leaky -condition as the liquid is used out and the tub dries. Where annotto is -purchased already prepared, of course it comes in vessels suitable to -keep it in; but when prepared at the factory, a receptacle has to be -provided, and nothing is better than stone or earthen-ware. In hot -weather, the liquid is liable to smell badly from the action of the heat -on it. A little salt stirred in will be found useful as a preventive -against this. - -It is not necessary to discuss at length the question of the effect of -coloring on the quality of the cheese. The introduction of a strong -alkaline preparation cannot be without some effect; and when that -happens to be adulterated with some vile substance, the effect cannot be -otherwise than injurious. The annotto itself is generally conceded to be -harmless; and the ley is, at most, but a neutralizer of the lactic acid, -but the quantity is not sufficient, perhaps, to produce any perceptible -result. At all events, color is demanded; annotto, prepared with ley or -potash, is the accepted material; so we have only to color with annotto -to suit the taste of our customer. - -We are assured that nicely colored cheese will bring from a cent to a -cent and a half a pound more than the same quality of cheese will bring -when pale. Buyers in some instances advise the making of pale cheese -because they have a special order for it; but they usually expect to get -it a little under the highest market quotations, and factorymen who -allow themselves to drop the color on the advice of an interested buyer, -because it is easy and costs nothing directly to do so, run the risk of -being caught and of losing a great deal more than they can save by -omitting the coloring. We never heard of a lot of cheese being condemned -because it was too nicely colored; but we frequently hear of complaints -and losses because cheese is too pale. The chances are at least four to -one in favor of high-colored cheese; and even the fifth chance is not -positively against color, though the other four are strongly against -_lack_ of color. He who wishes to have the widest range of markets, and -to command the best markets, must pay strict attention to color--not -only must he color, but color well and evenly. - -We have an objection to color, for reasons satisfactory to ourselves; -and buyers can have no interest in inducing makers to color their -cheese, beyond the fact that it makes it more marketable--and in this, -patrons and factorymen have a much greater interest than dealers can -have. The market demands a rich, even color, and will not be satisfied -without it. We say, therefore, _as a matter of dollars and cents_--not -of taste, choice or convenience--_keep up the color_. - -We will give two recipes for preparing annotto: 1. To five pounds of -prime annotto put five gallons of strong ley, made from wood ashes; -gradually heat up and dissolve the annotto, care being taken to not -scorch it on the bottom of the kettle. Of course thorough stirring is -essential. When the annotto is all dissolved, add five pounds of sal -soda and five gallons of soft water. Then gently boil the whole for -twenty or thirty minutes. This makes about ten gallons of prepared -coloring. If boiled away to less, add sufficient ley and soft water, in -equal quantities, to make that amount. Some omit the sal soda; but it is -generally believed that it not only adds strength to the preparation, -but improves the color by giving it more of a rich, buttery hue, instead -of a red. The whole, when sufficiently cooled to handle safely, should -be set in a tub, with a faucet two or three inches from the bottom, to -settle. When settled, it can be drawn off, and is ready for use. - -2. Mix in the proportion of five quarts of water to half a pound of -concentrated ley, and one pound of prime annotto. First dissolve the ley -in the water, by heating and stirring, and then add the annotto, and -dissolve it. Boil gently for half an hour. Care, as with the other -preparation, should be taken not to burn it. Settle and rack off. Then -your liquid is ready for use. - -The second recipe is the one most used, and is easiest to prepare, as it -avoids the labor, perplexity and risk of making the ley, which may not -always be of the desired strength, as the ashes may not be the same. But -if ashes are used, hot water is best to leech through them. A quart of -salt to ten gallons of preparation will improve its keeping qualities. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -RENNET. - - -An indispensable requisite in making cheese is good rennet. Nothing else -will answer the purpose. Different substitutes have from time to time -been tried, but all have met with indifferent success, or absolutely -failed. Acids will produce coagulation, but they spoil the quality of -the cheese. It was once supposed that the gastric juice of the calve's -stomach was acid, and produced coagulation by souring. But it has been -demonstrated that good curd can be produced from sweet new milk, by the -use of rennet, without the development of acid in either the curd or the -whey. How or why the principle obtained by soaking the calve's stomach -produces coagulation has not yet been discovered. What the principle -_is_, is not even known. It appears to be contained in the gastric juice -secreted by the inner membranes of the stomach, and a small quantity of -rennet, stirred into a vat of milk, seems to coagulate it in the same -manner that milk taken into the calve's stomach is coagulated. We all -know the fact that by the use of rennet we can make cheese. Beyond this, -we have little knowledge; so far as we are aware, scientific men are -just as much in the dark as the cheese-maker. - -As the stomach of the calf is bifold, we have seen the mistake -frequently made of saving the wrong one. But we presume patrons are -generally well informed on this point now, after so many years' -experience. Where the stomach is not entirely empty, the presence of -curd is a sure guide. Always save the stomach that contains the curd, -and no mistake will be made. If the stomach is empty, save the one that -has a smooth inside surface. The one that has a rough, honey-comb-like -inside surface is worthless for cheese-making, and should, of course, be -rejected. - -There are three or four ways of preserving the rennet or stomach, for -future use. Only two, we believe, are generally practiced in America. In -all cases, the rennet is to be turned wrong side out, all its contents -being thrown away, and the inner surface carefully cleaned by picking -off all hairs and bits of grass, hay or other substance which the calf -may have taken into its stomach. But the rennet should never be washed, -and great care should be taken not to remove any of the inner membrane -of the rennet, as in this membrane resides all its strength. Washing -would rinse out the gastric juice, and weaken the rennet; and much -washing would render it nearly or quite worthless. - -When properly cleaned, the rennet should be thoroughly rubbed with salt, -outside and in, turned the right side out, stretched on a crotched stick -or on a hoop, and hung up in a cool, dry place, to cure. In private -dairies, the farmer's wife, after salting the rennet, sometimes spreads -it on an earthen plate and sets it away to dry, frequently turning it on -the plate. Rennets dried in this way are nice, but it is too much work -to tend to them for a general adoption of this method of drying. Drying -on a stick or a hoop is the common way, and answers the purpose very -well. The only trouble is to find a place both dry and cool. It is -generally conceded, we believe, that heat injures the strength of the -rennet. Hence the importance of curing it in a cool place. Freezing is -thought by many to add to or develop the strength of the rennet. Be this -as it may, old rennets, that have hang up in the dry-house or some -other convenient place through the winter, will go much further in -cheese-making than new rennets. - -Another method of preserving rennets is by packing them into salt. This -is quite common, and is practiced by some of our best factories. It is -less troublesome than drying them, and is a sure preventive against -moths, which are apt to get into dried rennets. By salting them down, -there is less trouble to find a cool place in which to keep them during -the summer. But care should be taken to use only the purest salt in -packing rennets. Salt not fit to salt curd with is not fit to pack -rennets in, for when the rennets are used, the salt will be in the -liquid and find its way into the mass of curd. Besides, pure salt is -much the better preservative, and will keep either meat or rennets -sweeter than impure salt. - -Some think rennets preserved in this way are not as strong as those that -are dried. We do not quite see the philosophy of this, since by packing -in salt, none of the virtues of the rennet can escape by evaporation, -and must be retained either in the rennet or in the salt. It may be said -that the salt injures the strength of the rennet. If so, why does it not -prove equally injurious when the rennet is dried? In both methods of -preserving, salt is freely used--generally all that the rennet will -absorb. A batch of dried rennets may go farther than the same number -packed in salt, and _vice versa_; but this does not prove that the -_same_ rennets would not have equal virtues preserved by either method. - -The German method of preserving rennets is by blowing them up like a -bladder, and drying them. This is the way in which the Bavarian rennets, -which reach this country, are preserved. We believe no salt is used. -The method is simple, and if it answers the purpose equally well, we see -not why it may not be adopted in this country. We understand that the -Bavarian rennets give very good satisfaction. But, as we have never used -them, nor seen them used, we cannot speak from positive knowledge. - -Veal rennets are generally supposed to be better than deacon rennets. -Certain it is that the stomach of a calf that never sucked the cow is -not worth much in cheese-making. It is both small and weak. It seems to -be necessary that the process of digestion should go on for a while, at -least, that all the functions of the animal may become active and a full -secretion of gastric juice take place. Some are of the opinion that the -rennet is best when the calf is from three to five days old, as at that -age it is not likely to have taken anything but milk into its stomach, -which is best prepared for digesting that kind of food, the first -process of which is coagulation. Veal calves are apt to get hold of -other food, and the stomach is therefore less exclusively adapted to a -milk diet. Hence, it is argued, if the veal rennet is better than the -deacon, the stomach of the cow or ox ought to be better than that of the -veal calf. Whatever may be the conclusion, we have, and shall probably -continue to have, both deacon and veal rennets, both kinds of which have -been found to work satisfactorily. - -Much seems to depend on the condition of the calf when killed. If it -goes too long without food, the stomach gets inflamed and is not only -deprived of its strength, but is partially diseased, and, therefore, -unfit for cheese-making. This is the condition of most of the rennets -taken from calves killed in our larger cities, the calves going without -food sometimes two or three days. On the other hand, when the calf has a -full stomach, the juices seem to be absorbed in the food, and the rennet -is, therefore, weak. The best time for killing the calf appears to be -just after the stomach has emptied itself, when the appetite of the calf -begins to be sharp and the secretions of gastric juice are copious. This -will generally be found from twelve to eighteen hours after eating. If -fed at night, it may be killed any time the next forenoon. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -PREPARING RENNET. - - -The process of preparing rennet for use is very simple, and so generally -understood that we need not more than give a few hints on the subject. -In putting rennets to soak, care should be taken not to allow any -tainted ones to get into the batch. When they are packed in salt, it is -not difficult to make a selection. If the poor rennet does not smell, it -will be pretty likely to be discolored and unhealthful looking, instead -of having a whitish, wholesome appearance. All rennets thus discolored -should be thrown away as worse than useless--as positively injurious. If -the rennets are dried, it may not be so easy to detect the poor ones -before putting them to soak. After soaking, their quality will be quite -apparent; but much of their injurious effect may be avoided by promptly -rejecting them without rubbing. It is generally, and we believe -correctly, understood that diseased or tainted rennets produce both -huffy and bad-keeping cheese, by the introduction of decayed animal -substances. It certainly cannot improve the quality of the cheese to mix -with it the broth of carrion. - -Clear whey is the common and best liquid for soaking rennets. Water was -once and is now sometimes used, but it needs to be very soft and pure, -and is improved by boiling. We have never tried water, but it is -asserted by those who have used it for soaking rennets that a batch -prepared with it will not keep sweet as long as one prepared with whey, -but that boiling the water keeps it sweet longer than it will keep if -not boiled. We think the purer the whey the better, and therefore -prefer that which first separates from the curd after setting. Some are -not particular, and some prefer the salt whey that runs from the -presses. There is a saving of salt in this, but we think this liquid -cannot be as good to introduce into milk as that containing less cheesy -and buttery particles. Boiling the whey and skimming it, afterward -allowing it to cool and settle, that the sediment may also be excluded, -is said to be a great improvement, and we can easily believe this to be -true. It is not only free from impurities, but it forms a sharp acid -that acts readily upon the rennets and extracts more completely the -pepsin, gastric juice, or whatever it may be that coagulates the milk. -It is said that quite a saving in rennets can be effected by using -scalded whey for soaking them. - -Twenty or twenty-five prime rennets put into a half barrel of whey will -make a good preparation. It can be made stronger, of course, by the -addition of more rennets, or pouring in a less amount of whey; but it is -questionable if the entire strength can be extracted by using a less -quantity of whey in proportion to the number of rennets. They need to be -rubbed at least three times, each time in a new batch of whey. The -second time the preparation will be found about as strong as the first. -The third rubbing and rinsing may be in fresh whey to be used for -soaking a new batch of rennets. We like to have two tubs or jars for -soaking the rennets, one for the first and the other for the second -rubbing, alternately. After rubbing the second time, put the rennets in -a sack made of strainer cloth, to keep them separate, and soak them with -the batch intended for the next second rubbing. In this way the strength -of the preparation from the batch may be kept equal to that from the -first. Rub the third time, and rinse in fresh whey, as before indicated, -when the strength will be found pretty completely extracted. If dried -rennets are used, it will be necessary to add salt to the whey when the -batch is put to soak. Every time new whey is added, more salt will be -required. Where the rennets are packed in salt there will usually be -salt enough for the first soaking adhering to them; if not, it may be -increased in quantity by a few handfuls of that loose in the barrel in -which they have been packed. As the rennets will float on the whey, they -should be thoroughly stirred up as often as night and morning, and a -little salt sprinkled over those left on the top. - -We prefer stone jars, both for soaking rennets and to keep the prepared -rennet in, because they are so much more easily kept sweet than wooden -tubs can be. Of all things, we detest a stinking rennet tub or jar. -Frequent scalding, when emptied, is necessary. When the preparation is -kept in a tub, it will be advantageous to rub a little salt, each -morning, on the sides of the tub left exposed to the air, after setting -the milk, by the lowering of the liquid. By all means, do anything and -everything that may be necessary to keep the rennet tubs or jars from -stinking so badly that the stench will nearly suffocate one on -uncovering them. A sweet rennet tub is the evidence of important -qualities in a cheese-maker--care and cleanliness. - -Of course, there are various ways of managing, as regards quantity, -convenience's sake, and so on, but we do not believe the principles -involved in the process of selecting and preparing rennets for use, as -we have given it, can be violated or neglected without loss in some -manner. The importance of properly-prepared rennet, and of keeping it -sweet and clean, cannot be too highly estimated. "Bad luck" in -cheese-making might not infrequently be traced to the rennet tub; while -"good luck" may be as often traced to the same source. Look out for your -rennets and take care of your rennet-tubs or jars. They may make or mar -your fortune. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -SETTING. - - -The temperature of 82 deg. to 86 deg. is generally considered the best for -setting--the former in hot and the latter in cold weather. This gives an -average of 84 deg. for mild weather. Perhaps this point is as good as any -for setting. But it is worth bearing in mind that the milk will -coagulate sooner, after adding the rennet, at a high than at a low -temperature. The same milk will set quicker at 86 deg. than at 82 deg., and at -the points in the vat where the heat is greatest, or the milk cools -least by radiation, the curd will become tough and difficult to cut, -while other parts of the mass will remain tender and cut easily. This -not only demonstrates the greater activity of the rennet at a higher -heat, but the importance of an even heat throughout, and of keeping it -from falling. Some throw a cloth over the vat, after the milk begins to -thicken and agitation is no longer necessary to keep the cream from -rising. This is a good practice, we believe, as it retards the reduction -of temperature by radiation, and keeps the heat more equalized. This -will secure a more uniform action of the rennet, and render the cutting -less difficult and less liable to cause waste. - -When the rennet is once added and thoroughly incorporated with the milk, -we believe it would be better if the mass could have perfect rest until -the curd is ready to cut. We think the curd is more likely to be spongy -in consequence of the continued or frequent agitation kept up to prevent -the cream from rising. All know that a stir too much after the milk -begins to look thick, and roll heavily, prevents the formation of a -solid curd. It refuses to unite in one uniform mass, and remains in -small, separate particles. But, when the milk is all right, observation -will show that such a curd makes fine cheese, though there is great -waste from the fine particles floating off with the whey. And why will -it make fine cheese? Because it is in small particles, gets thoroughly -and evenly cooked, and the butter is equally distributed through it. - -But the difficulty of preventing the cream from rising and forming a -cream-curd, that will float on the whey, if it does not waste, needs to -be overcome before we can allow the milk perfect rest after -incorporating the rennet. We are not aware of any method for -accomplishing this. Agitation of the surface, at least, seems necessary -to retain the cream; but if the surface only is agitated, manifestly the -cream will escape from the bottom of the mass and impoverish it while -enriching the top. A thorough stirring of the whole mass, therefore, -will keep the cream more equally distributed, and it will also secure a -greater uniformity of temperature. The cheese must be of evener texture -than if made of curd of different degrees of richness mixed together. - -It is a question for debate as to whether the cream which rises on milk -is thoroughly incorporated with it by stirring. That butter is wasted in -making cheese, is a fact that cannot be denied. Some think that nearly -all the cream that rises on the vat during the night is floated off in -the whey. We cannot indorse this conclusion, although it is asserted -that where agitators are used, and the cream is thus prevented from -rising, there is a great saving of the butter. But one fact is worth a -thousand fictions in the practical affairs of life, whatever it be in -romance. Cream will mix with the milk by stirring, and go to enrich the -cheese, as is proved in the manufacture of the English Stilton cheese. -In the manufacture of this, the cream of the night's milk is taken off -and added to the morning's milk, which is worked up separately. The -cheese is greatly enriched thereby. How much the waste of butter is -increased, we are unable to say. We know from our own experience, that -skimming the night's milk, instead of stirring in the cream, makes a -marked difference in the yield and quality of the make. - -The first thing in setting, when a vat of milk is raised to the proper -temperature, is to add the coloring. This is a strong alkaline -preparation, and must have a tendency to retard the development of the -lactic acid, if it does not combine with it in forming a neutral salt. -If no effect is perceptible, beyond the color it imparts, it is simply -because the quantity is so small. Probably the effect of the alkali in -the annotto is more than counteracted by the acid in the rennet. - -Nothing as good as clear whey has been found for soaking rennets. Some -think the acid an advantage in the working of the milk, and others go so -far as to add, in cold weather, a quantity of sharp whey to the milk -along with that in the prepared rennet. This, of course, hastens the -development of acid throughout the mass. But we cannot say that we -approve of doing anything to change the milk, and thus sour the curd -before cooking. We prefer to have the milk as sweet as possible when -set, and to keep the curd sweet until it is cooked. Then we would -develop the acid in the whey. For this reason, if sour whey is to be -added, we should add it after the curd is cooked, for the purpose of -hastening the development of the lactic acid in the whey. This seems to -us to be the most rational course, from what our experience has taught -us. If fair experiment should demonstrate that we are in error as to -when and where the development of the acid should take place, we shall -be willing to yield the point. - -The amount of prepared rennet that it is necessary to add to the milk, -depends upon its strength, which can be determined only by experiment. -Sufficient should be used to coagulate the milk in ten or fifteen -minutes, and render it fit to cut in thirty or forty minutes. If the -milk is "old," the same quantity of rennet will cause it to work sooner, -as it should. Some would add less rennet. We would not. The milk needs -to work faster, and the acid, although it coagulates the milk, will not -supply the place of the rennet. The rennet ought to be strong enough to -require not more than a quart to a thousand pounds of milk. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -CUTTING CURDS. - - -Cheese-making was once carried on without cutting the curd; and even -since the introduction of the factory system, there have been those who -denounced the idea of using a cutting instrument. Breaking up the curd -with the hands was considered the better method as incurring less waste, -both of butter and cheese. Such ideas, though entertained but a few -years ago, are obsolete. Cutting curds is now universal, certainly in -America. The only questions are as to the time, manner and extent of -cutting. - -When should the curd be cut? Practically, there is little difference of -opinion on this question. Some may cut a little sooner or later than -others, and even the same person may not always be precise as to the -time of cutting. But all will agree that a curd should not be cut before -it is firm enough to break square and smooth over the finger without -whitening the whey; and they will also agree that it should be cut -before it gets tough enough to drive along ahead of the knife. We would -cut it as soon as it can be done without waste, while the curd is -tender; and we would do all the cutting at once. There is no sense in -running the knife through the curd one way, and then letting the curd -stand and toughen before cross-cutting and completing the operation. If -it is fit to partly cut, it is fit to wholly cut; and the sooner the -cutting is done with, the better. Time for the separation of the whey -can be given after the cutting is done, and before the heat is further -raised. - -The cutting should be done as carefully as possible and as evenly as -possible. The fewer the motions, the better. If it could be done -instantaneously and uniformly, without agitation, it would be an -advantage. At the right time, we would like to have the entire vat of -curd instantaneously separated into pieces of uniform size. This is the -end to be aimed at. We are far from reaching it with present appliances. -We can only approximate it as nearly as possible. A knife, therefore, -with blades near together is preferable to one with blades farther -apart. - -As to the extent of the cutting, there is more difference of opinion, -though the difference has much diminished since the mania for coarse -curds ran its course. A few yet cling to this exploded notion; but the -great majority choose a medium degree of fineness. It has been found -that the large pieces do not sufficiently cook, especially if the milk -is old enough to work quick. The consequence is an uneven texture, and a -deteriorated flavor. Sufficient whey remains in the centers of the large -lumps to ferment and give the cheese the smell of the whey-vat, if it -does not sour and cause the cheese to become leaky and dry. Possibly, if -the weather be favorable for curing, the whey may collect in pungent -drops throughout the cheese, showing themselves when cut somewhat as -they do in the Limburger. Such cheese, we think, is likely to ultimately -approximate the Limburger in both odor and flavor. It will please some -tastes, but will not answer for the best markets. - -Medium curds are now the rule. As cheese-makers have approximated fine -curds, they have improved the quality of their cheese. We believe still -finer cutting will prove a further advantage. We will give our reasons -for thinking so, and will add that our experience, as far as it goes, -corroborates the idea. It secures a more uniform action of the heat and -separation of the whey, and therefore an evener texture and better -flavor, with correspondingly improved keeping qualities. - -What is the object and advantage of cutting at all? Why not let the curd -remain in one unbroken mass? We cut the curd for the purpose of -facilitating the separation of the fluids from the solids by the -combined action of the rennet and heat. Is it not desirable that this -action should be uniform on every particle of curd? We think this -question will be generally answered in the affirmative. If so, then it -must be conceded that the finer the curd is cut the more nearly the -desired result will be attained. If it could be separated particle from -particle, without waste, would not the action of the heat and rennet be -more perfect still? When in lumps, the externals of them must -necessarily be cooked more than the centers, and the evil of -over-cooking--if there is such an evil with a blood heat temperature--is -illy counteracted by the mixture of curd cooked to different -degrees--some overdone and some underdone. It should all be cooked -alike, to whatever degree the cooking may be carried. This will secure -uniformity of texture and quality, and also clean flavor, if the cooking -is complete. - -But, of course, in cutting a curd fine there is danger of waste--waste -of curd, but not necessarily waste of butter, unless the curd is sour. -Then it is impossible to avoid waste of butter by any process that we -are aware of--and with a sour curd there is all the more necessity for -cutting fine and cooking rapidly and thoroughly. With proper care, the -evil of sour milk can be avoided. With good sweet milk and proper -management, there is very little danger of waste of any kind, cut as -fine as we can with the common knife. - -We would cut so that the pieces when cooked should not be larger than -kernels of corn; and though many object to it, we should not, if the -pieces were as small as buckwheat--and as regular in size. We would not -use a knife with the blades more than a quarter of an inch apart. Though -we have never used a knife for cutting horizontally, the idea commends -itself to our judgment. We would carefully cut first with the horizontal -knife, leaving the thin slabs of curd lying one upon the other. Then, -without waiting for the whey to rise or the curd to sink, we would use -the perpendicular blades lengthwise of the vat, reducing the slabs to -long square strips, and follow this with the cross-cutting until the -pieces were at least as small as beechnuts. After this, the curd may be -allowed to stand a few minutes, for the whey to separate, before -starting the heat--provided the milk is sweet enough to permit of delay. -But if the milk should give any indication of being old, we would begin -at once to gradually raise the heat; if quite old and changed, we would -crowd the heat as fast as practicable. - -To sum up in brief, we would cut a curd and complete the cutting as soon -as it can be done without waste; we would cut it as expeditiously as -possible and with as few motions; we would cut it as fine as care -against waste would warrant; we would raise the heat as gradually and -evenly as circumstances would permit; we would cook as thoroughly and as -evenly as possible; we would keep up the heat until the curd is done; we -would then let the acid develop in the whey until it is plainly changed; -we would dip as warm as convenient, drain and salt, cool to at least -80 deg., and then put to press. With good milk, good rennet and a good -place to cure the cheese in, we should expect in this way to turn out a -tip-top article. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -HEAT. - - -One of the most important elements in cheese-making is heat; but we do -not believe the importance of its proper regulation is sufficiently -understood by our cheese-makers. We are aware that cheese can be made -without the use of artificial heat. It is not such an article, however, -as would meet with a ready sale, or be likely to increase the -consumptive demand for cheese. A good-keeping, mild and nutty-flavored -cheese cannot readily be produced, if at all, with a temperature lower -than 96 deg.; nor can a rich, buttery article be made with a temperature -over 102 deg.. We consider 6 deg. the widest allowable range of heat, and think -98 deg. to 100 deg., or full blood-heat, the best temperature. - -Evenness and steadiness of temperature are two important points. That -apparatus is best which heats the milk throughout the vat the most -evenly--leaves it the freest from hot places and cold places, at the -sides, ends, or on the bottom. A perfect apparatus would raise the -temperature of every particle of milk at the same time and at the same -rate; and retain this perfectly even heat at the desired point until the -cooking is completed. - -The difficulty, with most or all heating apparatus, is to raise the heat -of the entire mass to the required temperature, without submitting some -particles to a greater degree of heat than is necessary, or heating them -in advance of the rest, to be stirred in and partially cooled again. - -We believe that an even cook or scald is of the utmost importance, and -that everything that can be should be done to secure that end. If -thoroughly accomplished, with sweet milk to begin with, we have no fears -as to the richness, fine flavor and good keeping qualities of the -cheese. There is no other thing, in our opinion, which will go so far -toward securing these three desirable qualities. - -Another thing, as before indicated, we consider of great importance in -securing a thorough cooking and proper separation of the whey from the -curd. We refer to steadiness of temperature. It seems to us a great -mistake, when the temperature is once up, to not keep it there, without -rising or lowering. It seems a misapplication of terms to speak of -cooking or scalding at a temperature of 98 or 100 degrees; yet, we all -know that blood-heat is all that is required for cheese-making. This -heat seems necessary. Perhaps it is because nature designed the gastric -juice from the rennet to operate at the temperature. It is a well -established fact that digestion will not go on when the temperature of -the stomach is below that of blood-heat. We presume a much higher -temperature is equally detrimental. This may account for the fact that -blood-heat is the best for cheese-making, as at that temperature the -rennet is most active. Be this as it may, we are satisfied that the -process is retarded and the curd deteriorated by allowing the -temperature to fall during the time it is in the scald. Instead of -cooking, and condensing, as it should, in order to expel the whey, it is -only soaking and souring. The moment the acid is sufficiently developed, -though the curd be yet soft and raw, the whey is drawn, the curd is -further cooled and soaked, and then dipped, drained, salted and put to -press. A leaky cheese is the result. If the weather is cool and bad for -curing, a sour cheese follows. But whatever the weather may be, we doubt -if a leaky cheese ever yet turned out all right in flavor and quality. -It can never have that nutty, new-milk flavor which belongs to cheese -properly cooked. We presume there are those who will differ with us in -opinion, but we should demand the positive evidence of at least four -senses before believing we are wrong. - -We say, therefore, raise your temperature gradually and evenly, to full -blood-heat, and there retain it until your curd is ready to dip. Then we -believe it would be an advantage to dip and drain, without cooling more -than what cannot be avoided, and salt warm. But of salting, we will -speak more at length some other time. We are now discussing the question -of heat. Let us give a little every-day illustration. Suppose the -housewife were to put her potatoes for dinner in a kettle of water, run -the heat up to 212 deg., and then allow it to cool by radiation until the -potatoes are done. What kind of a dish would they make? Or, after she -had cooked her potatoes, suppose she should let them stand and soak -until they are cool enough to handle without danger of burning or -scalding any one. Who would want to eat the watery things? The truth is, -212 deg. is the proper temperature for boiling potatoes, and the sooner and -hotter you can get them out of the water, the better. So, in our -opinion, blood-heat, or 98 deg. to 100 deg., is the proper temperature for -cooking cheese curd, and that after the curd is done, the sooner and -warmer it is dipped, the better for the curd--the sweeter, -richer-flavored and better grained (not pasty, but more of the -consistency of hard, well-made butter, which shows the batter globules -whole) will be the cheese, and its keeping qualities will be -correspondingly improved. It may be a little more work to cool the curd -in the air, and harder keeping it from packing; but if dipped warm, the -whey will the sooner drain off, and the salt can be the sooner thrown -on, when it will penetrate quicker, season the mass more evenly, and -form a coating to the particles of curd, which will keep them from -packing together. - -But whether the curd is cooled before dipping or not, we maintain that -it is a great advantage to keep the temperature up to blood-heat during -the entire process after the heat is once raised. With self-heating -apparatus, this can be done by keeping a very little fire going--just -enough to supply the loss of heat from radiation. Where the heating is -done by running warm water around the milk-vat, a current of the proper -temperature can be kept up. If steam is used, perhaps a small jet can be -kept pouring into the space around the vat. But in all these cases, the -danger is that too high a temperature will have to be kept up at the -point of applying the heat, in order to prevent the temperature of the -whole mass from falling. This is a decided objection, and necessitates a -great deal of stirring, which is only a palliative of and not a remedy -for the evil. - -Of course we write with reference to the management of heat with milk -that is sweet and in proper condition for cheese-making. Where it is -"old," or tainted, to begin with, it is necessary to hurry the heat, and -every operation connected with the process of making it up. A higher -temperature and less time will be found to produce a very similar effect -to a lower temperature and more time. But, in all cases, an even, steady -heat should be aimed at and maintained to the end. - -We never could quite understand the philosophy of cooking less in the -spring and fall than in the summer. The idea that it makes the cheese -more buttery to dip the curd raw, seems to us very absurd. If there is -any time when a curd needs to be thoroughly cooked, it is when the -weather is cool and unfavorable for curing. If the whey is not properly -expelled by the action of heat, it has got to either dry out or leak -out, or both. If there is too much left in the curd to dry out, long -before it can leak out, your cheese will be sour, with a puckered face, -and sundry ugly cracks. Even when the cheese does not absolutely drip, -if the curd is dipped while underdone, it will sour, the face will have -a corrugated appearance, and the cheese will "try" crumbly and sour. The -color will also be paler than in those that are properly cooked, the -general look will be clammy, and no rind will form that will be -satisfactory. Even when well-cooked and well-made, if a cheese does not -have sufficient warmth, it will sour on the ranges and spoil; and it -stands to reason that cheese made from a curd insufficiently cooked must -work a great deal worse under unfavorable conditions for curing. Our -experience is, that a curd needs more cooking in the spring and fall -than will answer in hot, dry weather. If we must have a curd dipped soft -at any season of the year, we say let it be at that season when the -weather is best for drying and curing. A cheese that would become -worthless on the ranges in cold, wet weather, may turn out pretty fair -in "dog days." But we do not believe in undercooking at any time. Food, -of all kinds, needs as much cooking one season of the year as another. -It is quite likely, however, that a degree or two lower heat will answer -in cool weather, for the reason that milk keeps better then, and the -curd remains longer in the scald before taking on acid. In this case, we -have a lower heat for a longer time, which will produce the same result -as a higher heat for a shorter time. But in both cases the curd ought to -be cooked the same. Whatever degree of heat is decided upon, let it be -kept up, steady and uniform throughout the mass, and at all seasons of -the year let the curd be cooked done. This is specially important when -the conditions for curing are unfavorable. You must do, then, in the vat -part of the work which can be done on the ranges when the weather is -favorable. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -ACID. - - -Another important agent in cheese-making is acid. This you are pretty -sure to have, at some stage of the process, and the chief question seems -to be as to _when_ you will have it. It is said that milk fresh from the -cow manifests the presence of lactic acid. The quantity is very slight, -however, and under favorable circumstances the development is slow. -Where milk is properly cooled immediately after being taken from the -cow, and the factoryman has good facilities for keeping it cool, it will -be found, when the time comes to begin the process of working up, what -is called "sweet." It will not taste as fresh and clean as when first -cooled after milking; but no acid will be perceptible to either taste or -smell--not even enough to make it what is termed "old." - -Some think age makes the milk all the better for cheese-making, and we -believe it is generally understood that milk fresh from the cow does not -work quite satisfactorily. However, we place no great stress on this -opinion. Old milk will work quicker than new milk; the acid will develop -sooner to the point desired by the cheese-maker, and this saving of time -doubtless has something to do with the decision in favor of age in milk -for the purpose of cheese-making. - -Our impression is, that milk cannot be too sweet when the rennet is -added, and that if sufficient time is taken to develop the acid in the -whey before dipping, the fresh milk will be found to turn out the -finest-flavored and best-keeping cheese. The acid is not wanted in the -_curd_, but in the _whey_. If the milk is sour, to begin with, or quite -advanced toward sourness, the lactic acid must pervade every particle of -the whole mass. Now, it strikes us that the correct idea is to expel the -whey from the curd, as far as possible, before the acid makes its -appearance, and let the acid develop in the whey afterward, so as to -furnish a sort of pickle. The acid will develop sharply at some stage in -the process; and, as we have before said, the question to be decided -seems to be as to what point it is best to have it develop at. - -We say, with the light we at present have before us, we think the acid -should never be allowed to develop much before the curd is cooked and -the whey is properly expelled; then let the whey take on acid to quite a -perceptible degree before dipping the curd. We doubt if it makes much -difference whether the acidulation takes place while the curd is -floating in the whey, or after the whey is drawn off and while the curd -stands and drains. There is rather more convenience in handling to leave -the whey on and stir the curd sufficiently to keep it from packing; but -the "cheddar" cheese, which is generally considered the best of any, is -made by stacking the curd, after cooking, and allowing the whey that -clings to it to take on acid. But where the milk is all right, to begin -with, and the curd is properly managed and cooked, we doubt if it makes -any material difference which process is adopted for allowing the acid -to develop. With such a curd, there is little danger of its being -injured by the acid, as any one can demonstrate by allowing curd to -stand unpressed over night, as is often done with small remnants, when -the pieces will be found covered with an almost vinegar-sour acid. Grind -this curd and put it to press, and there will be no signs of sour -cheese. - -The development of the acid is absolutely necessary to secure good -keeping qualities and a mild, clean flavor. Dip a curd before the whey -has become perceptibly acid, or is on the verge of "changing," and we -think that a rank, bitter flavor will be sure to follow. The absence of -sufficient lactic acid leaves the albumen in a condition likely to -decompose, while the butyric acid develops itself, as in rancid butter, -and the two combine to make a very unpalatable flavor to one nice about -the taste of his cheese. Some prefer strong cheese. To such, the nearer -the flavor approaches that of smoked herring and tobacco, the greater -the gustatory gratification. - -The principal difficulty in working up sour milk is to get sufficient -action of the rennet and heat on the curd to properly condense it and -expel the whey. It is a mistake, therefore, to dip a curd soft because -it is sour. Run your heat up to 104 deg. or even 106 deg., as soon as possible, -and keep it there until your curd is cooked. It is sour, and nothing but -cooking will save it, if anything will. The whey must and will come out. -If you do not expel it from the particles of curd in the vat, you will -not be able to press it out sufficiently to keep it from working and -leaking out while the cheese stands on the ranges. - -If anything will prevent sour milk from making leaky cheese, it is -thorough cooking. This process you should hurry up as much as -possible--always having an eye to keeping the heat even, and preventing -waste of butter. The acid, acting on the butter globules, makes their -coatings tender. Therefore, handle the curd as carefully as possible, -cool well before putting to press, and press gently, increasing the -pressure gradually. But, if you have succeeded in getting your curd -properly cooked, you have done one of the best things possible to -retain the butter. If, when you put the curd to press, you find you have -more than the usual bulk of curd, filling the hoops fuller and refusing -to yield readily to the pressure of the screw--as is generally the case -with sour milk, as managed in most factories--you may know that you have -not done your work thoroughly, and therefore look out for leaky, sour, -poor cheese. On the other hand, if you have condensed the curd to the -usual bulk, so that it works well under the screw, you may hope for a -fair cheese, that may pass muster when the buyer comes along. - -We often hear the remark, when anything is said about developing the -acid, "No sour cheese for me; I prefer to dip my curd sweet." People who -talk in this way either make bitter, bad-flavored cheese, or else get on -more acid than they are aware of, in consequence of having dull taste -and smell. They judge by the _appearance_ and _feel_ of the curd when it -is in condition to dip, and may succeed in hitting the right point. In -hot weather, it is hardly possible not to develop the acid sufficiently. -But if they really dip the curd sweet, we do not believe it possible -that their cheese can be up to the standard demanded by the best -markets, though they may succeed in getting a fair price for it. Not all -buyers are really good judges, and fewer still know what the matter is -with a cheese that is imperfectly made. They know, perhaps, that there -is something wrong about it; but what, they are unable to say. Further, -we believe the average price of American cheese lower than it should be, -in consequence of so little really prime cheese, and of the large amount -of second-rate; and that, as yet, our buyers are not sufficiently -discriminating in their purchases and prices, though they are yearly -growing more so. Both buyers and cheese-makers need more experience and -a better understanding of what is requisite in the manufacture of a -prime article. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -DIPPING CURDS. - - -There is nothing so difficult in cheese-making as to determine the exact -point when a curd ought to be taken out of the vat and salted. A slight -variation either way from this point makes an uneven lot of cheese, and -much variation spoils the batch, so that it will not pass for "prime." -Every cheese-maker has felt the want of some test whereby the exact -point, when a curd is sufficiently "done" to dip, can be determined with -certainty. Neither the sense of smell, the sense of taste, nor the sense -of touch is infallible. The evidence of this fact can be seen in any -factory during the season of cheese-making. A simple test of acidity, -which is claimed to be conclusive, is the application of a hot iron to a -lump of curd. The iron wants to be searing hot--not red hot, but hot -enough to toast cheese. Take up a small handful of curd, squeeze the -whey out of it, and touch the hot iron to it, holding it there for a -moment, or until it adheres and begins to melt or toast the cheese. Then -pull the iron gently away from the curd. If the curd is raw and sweet, -it will break short off from the iron and appear crumbly. If slightly -acid, it will slightly pull out in threads, but not very long ones. As -the acid develops, the stringiness increases. At a certain point, the -curd will cling to the iron and pull out in numerous fine threads an -inch or two long. Beyond this point, the threads grow longer but fewer, -until there will be only one, which will draw out a foot or so, and then -break, recoiling somewhat like India-rubber. Indeed, the curd grows -tougher and more stringy from the time it begins to take on acid -perceptibly, until it finally ends in stringing indefinitely, like wax, -having passed the point of breaking and flying back. The successive -stages of development are gradual, but very marked, and cannot fail to -be recognized after a few experiments. - -Thus having obtained a means of telling the degree of acid developed, it -only remains to be decided at what point to dip the curd. It is claimed -that the proper one is where the threads are the finest and most -numerous. Beyond this point, the threads diminish in number but increase -in length, which is an indication of too much acid. It is asserted that -the hot iron test is uniform and reliable, besides being easy of -application. Cheese-makers can make their own experiments, and we advise -them to try the hot iron to their own satisfaction. If it should prove -as conclusive as good judges think it will, it will be of immense value -to our dairymen. - -This test reminds us of the test used by maple-sugar makers to determine -when the batch has reached the point where it will "grain" and "cake" -well. They make a small bow of a twig, dip it into the sugar, which -adheres to and fills it, and then they blow through the bow. If no -bubble forms and floats off like a soap-bubble, the batch is not done. -But if they can blow a string of bubbles, or one long bubble, it is time -to remove the heat. The stringing of the cheese-curd, on the application -of the hot iron, seems to afford a very similar test for the -cheese-maker. - -It is not claimed that the use of the hot iron will necessarily insure -the making of good cheese. It only determines the degree of acidity, -which is one very important point. Other things are requisite to the -manufacture of a prime article, and the same care, attention, and -labor, in other matters, will remain just as essential. By using the hot -iron, however, it is claimed that the cheese-maker can tell, every time, -just how sour his curd is. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -SALTING CURDS. - - -We believe there is not much controversy on the question of salting -curd. One says, salt it hot, and another says, cool it first. But the -variation in temperature is but a few degrees, and can hardly be -supposed to have much effect. On the whole, we prefer salting as warm as -practicable, as the curd then takes the salt better and the seasoning is -likely to be evener. But the sooner the salt is thrown on, the greater -the waste will be from running off in the whey. If the curd were -thoroughly drained, or pressed out, as it is by the English in the -manufacture of cheddar cheese, before the salt is added, considerable -less would be needed. Some salt the curd in the vat, while it is yet -covered with whey, and think this the better way. We opine, however, it -matters but little when the salt is added, if it be distributed evenly -throughout the mass of curd and is used in the proper quantity. The -common method is to salt in the curd-sink, while the curd is -draining--generally as soon after it is dipped as it can be stirred into -a loose condition suitable for evenly mixing the salt. - -We have heard the opinion expressed that it matters not whether the curd -is well separated after salting, or left in coarse chunks with the salt -adhering to their surfaces when put to press, as salt is very -penetrating and the pressing drives the salt whey all through the -cheese. But the common practice is not based on such a conclusion, and -we think it well that it is not. Even salting we consider as essential -in cheese-making as in butter-making. - -The amount of salt used at the different factories varies from four -ounces to five ounces for a hundred pounds of milk, or from two pounds -and a half to three pounds and an eighth for a thousand pounds of milk, -or a hundred pounds of curd. The higher rate of salting is thought to -somewhat retard the curing, but it will help the keeping qualities of -the cheese. - -For convenience sake, and to save time and the liability to mistakes -when in a hurry, we would recommend the making of a scale or table, -based on the rate of salting adopted, ranging from twenty or twenty-five -pounds up to a hundred, and then for the hundreds up to the capacity of -the vat. It takes but a little while, during some leisure hour, to make -such a tabular scale. When made and stuck up in some convenient -place--say, over the salt barrel, or over the balances--it will enable -any one not familiar with or quick in figures to see at a glance how -much salt is needed for the curd of a given amount of milk. It is a -convenience, too, that will last as long as the factory, if taken care -of. - - -For the benefit of whom it may concern, we give the following tables: - - -TABLE - -FOR SALTING AT THE RATE OF 2 LBS. 8 OZS. TO 1,000 LBS. OF MILK. - - - -----------+---------------++---------+--------------- - MILK. | SALT. || MILK. | SALT. - -----------+-------+-------++---------+-------+------- - lbs. | lbs. | ozs. || lbs. | lbs. | ozs. - 25 | 0 | 1 || 1,000 | 2 | 8 - 50 | 0 | 2 || 2,000 | 5 | 0 - 75 | 0 | 3 || 3,000 | 7 | 8 - 100 | 0 | 4 || 4,000 | 10 | 0 - 200 | 0 | 8 || 5,000 | 12 | 8 - 300 | 0 | 12 || 6,000 | 15 | 0 - 400 | 1 | 0 || 7,000 | 17 | 8 - 500 | 1 | 4 || 8,000 | 20 | 0 - 600 | 1 | 8 || 9,000 | 22 | 8 - 700 | 1 | 12 || | | - 800 | 2 | 0 || | | - 900 | 2 | 4 || | | - -----------+-------+-------++---------+-------+------- - - -TABLE - -FOR SALTING AT THE RATE OF 3 LBS. 2 OZS. TO 1,000 LBS. OF MILK. - - - -----------+---------------++---------+--------------- - MILK. | SALT. || MILK. | SALT. - -----------+-------+-------++---------+-------+------- - lbs. | lbs. | ozs. || lbs. | lbs. | ozs. - 20 | 0 | 1 || 1,000 | 3 | 2 - 40 | 0 | 2 || 2,000 | 6 | 4 - 60 | 0 | 3 || 3,000 | 9 | 6 - 80 | 0 | 4 || 4,000 | 12 | 8 - 100 | 0 | 5 || 5,000 | 15 | 10 - 200 | 0 | 10 || 6,000 | 18 | 12 - 300 | 0 | 15 || 7,000 | 21 | 14 - 400 | 1 | 4 || 8,000 | 25 | 0 - 500 | 1 | 9 || 9,000 | 28 | 2 - 600 | 1 | 14 || | | - 700 | 2 | 3 || | | - 800 | 2 | 8 || | | - 900 | 2 | 13 || | | - -----------+-------+-------++---------+-------+------- - - -We presume the method of using these tables will be plain enough to -most cheese-makers. But we will give a single illustration. Supposing -the batch of milk to be 4,640 pounds, if we wish to salt at the rate of -3 lbs. 2 ozs. to the 1,000 pounds of milk, we look at the column -indicating the quantity of salt for a given number of thousands, and -find that 4,000 pounds of milk require 12 lbs. 8 ozs. of salt. Referring -to the other column, we find 400 pounds of milk require 1 lb. 4 ozs. -salt, and 40 pounds, 2 ozs. Add these together, and we have 13 lbs. 14 -ozs. as the quantity of salt required for 4,640 lbs. of milk. If -desired, a table can be made out, with little trouble, that will show -the quantity of salt required for any given number of hundreds of pounds -of milk likely to be contained in a single vat. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -TAINTED MILK. - - -The most abominable of all things in a cheese-factory is tainted milk. -It means floating curds, "huffy" cheese, bad flavor and poor prices. -Yet, as milk is now managed, most factories will, in hot weather, get -occasionally caught with a mess of tainted milk. There are hard work, -anxiety and unsatisfactory results in it for the cheese-maker, and -dissatisfaction and small profits for the patron. Such things never -ought to be; but, when such a catastrophe happens, like other -disagreeable things, it has to be borne and the best made of it that -circumstances will permit. - -We know of no way to make good cheese out of tainted milk, and have had -comparatively little experience with it--though quite as much as we -desire. But from our own knowledge and what we can learn from the -experience of others, if we had a tainted mess of milk to work up, we -should heat it up as soon as possible, cut the curd fine, cook it -thoroughly and develop the acid as much as we thought the curd would -bear and stick together so as to bandage well. If we had another batch, -in which the whey was all right, we would draw off the whey from the -tainted batch as early as possible and add whey from the sweet batch to -the tainted curd, to cook it in. If not, as soon as cooked, we would -draw off the whey and allow the acid to develop in the curd. We presume -sour whey added to the batch would be an advantage in developing the -acid, and acid is what seems to be needed to check the decomposition and -further tainting of the curd. An extra quantity of salt would doubtless -be an advantage in stopping further taint. The curd should be cooled to -the temperature of the atmosphere, and well aired before being put to -press, and the pressing should be thorough. - -Old cheese-makers have told us that they thought they found an advantage -in washing and cooling a tainted curd with ice water--that is, by -chilling it. It seems to us that, though this might check taint for the -time being, it would hasten it when the cheese warmed up in curing, as -butter or meat will spoil rapidly after having come in contact with ice, -if exposed to the atmosphere. - -Prime cheese never can be made of bad milk. But, if milk is not too -badly tainted, a mess managed on the principles we have indicated will -make a fair cheese--one that will suit many palates. A curd made of sour -milk may be improved by washing out some of the acid by the use of warm -water. With such a curd, extra cooking is an important point; but -generally there is less cooking, owing to the hurry to get the curd out -of the sour whey. It is in almost the opposite condition, so far as acid -is concerned, of curd made from tainted milk. The latter has too little -acid; the former too much. We therefore want to develop the acid in a -tainted curd, and to retard or diminish it in a sour one. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -CURING. - - -There is no part of the process of making up milk and getting the -product ready for market which requires more care and judgment, as well -as some hard work, than curing. Few rooms are properly prepared for the -purpose. They are left too open and barn-like, with no means of -controlling the temperature. Factorymen generally seem to think that if -the cheese is only made and put on the ranges, there is little or no -need of making any further provision. We have seen cheese, which we -believe had deteriorated from one to two cents a pound in value, because -the curing process had not gone on properly. The curing rooms were full -of cracks which let in the wind, cold or hot, dry or damp, as it might -be, and the cheese stood on the ranges in the cold, damp atmosphere, -turning to swill--to hog feed, instead of human food. The faces were -cracked; the flavor was bad; "too much acid," the buyers said; the -makers were perplexed, and quite sure they had not changed their hands -from what they were when they made a good reputation; the patrons were -dissatisfied, and the committeemen grumbled. There might have been other -failings; but we are quite sure that no one has a right to expect prime -cheese where there are not the proper facilities for curing. If the -weather happens to be right, a barn may answer the purpose. But no one -has a right to presume on always having favorable weather; and it is the -part of wisdom to make preparations for all sorts of contingencies. - -A curing-room should be made with a wind-proof wall. This would guard -against sudden changes of weather, by keeping out both heat and cold. -Sufficient air can be introduced through the windows, which should be -made to open easily, and be provided with blinds. There should also be -provision for supplying artificial heat, equally distributed throughout -the building, and not from a red-hot stove set in the middle, or in one -end or corner, where it will toast the cheeses near it, and leave those -farther off to chill in the cold weather of spring and fall. If steam is -used, the heating apparatus may be made to do the double work of cooking -the curd, and warming the drying-room. This may be done by means of -hot-air tubes, or by the use of steam-pipes running round the room. Of -course it would cost a little at the beginning; but a curing room once -properly fitted up would soon pay the extra expense in the saving of -time, labor, care, vexation and money. A thousand and one annoyances -would be guarded against, and the proprietor would have the satisfaction -of knowing that he had got a good thing, which would insure the most -that could be expected from the product of the cheese-vat, and build up -a first-class reputation and a permanent business. - -A curing-room should not only be kept at an equable temperature of 70 deg. -to 80 deg., but be well ventilated. The gases constantly emitted by the -curing process should have a chance to freely escape and leave the -atmosphere as pure and sweet as possible. There is no more sense in -supposing that a cheese can cure properly and have a clean, wholesome -flavor, if kept in a close, unventilated room, than that a human being -can retain his health in impure air. The curing-room must be kept clean -and sweet, dry and airy--not by allowing the wind to whistle through it -as it listeth, but by a judicious system of heating and ventilating, -which will allow the hot and chill blasts to blow harmlessly by. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -GREASING CHEESE. - - -When a cheese is first removed from the hoops, care should be taken that -its face be not allowed to dry and crack before it is greased with hot -whey-butter. Nothing has been found so good as whey-butter for the -purpose of greasing cheese, and it should be applied hot, and as soon -after the cheese is set on the range as possible. If it dries at all, we -think it injurious to the formation of a smooth, glassy face; and if it -dries much, the face is sure to check and present an unsatisfactory -appearance, besides furnishing convenient places for the cheese-fly to -deposit its eggs. - -A very convenient thing for applying the hot butter is a paint-brush. It -is much handier and better every way than a swab. But care must be -taken, or the bristles of the brush will get scorched. This can be -avoided by removing the brush from the dish when through using it, and -not putting it in the grease again until you are ready to grease the -faces of your cheeses. - -A pressed iron dish with a handle riveted on, is handy for melting the -grease. There is no danger of melting out the bottom, or melting off the -handle, and you are less liable to burn yourself or spill your grease -than you are if you melt the whey butter in an old basin, which very -soon gets burnt and leaky. - -Little conveniences, like the iron dish and brush we have mentioned, -help a great deal, in the course of a season, about cheese-making; and a -cheese-maker had better furnish them at his own expense, if his -employers are too stingy to do it, than not to have them. There are -many such little things that greatly assist in doing work easily and in -keeping neat and tidy. One can do without them, on the principle that a -farmer can hoe his corn without a cultivator, but it does not pay. - -If a cheese cannot be greased as soon as taken out, spread a cloth or -put a turner over it, or both. This will keep the moisture from escaping -and the air from immediate contact with the face of the cheese. - -As whey-butter is the best and nearly the only material used for -greasing the faces of cheeses, it will not be amiss and may be of use to -inexperienced cheese-makers, to say a few words on the mode of trying -out the whey-butter. Prepare a skimmer with a long handle, which may be -cheaply made by punching the bottom of an old tin-pan full of holes and -fastening a wooden handle to it with bits of wire. A shrub five or six -feet long and of suitable size, with a short crook at the larger end, is -convenient. It can be split at the crooked end, slipped on the edge of -the pan and wired there without much trouble. - -Hang a large kettle--a cauldron is best--in a convenient place, and fill -it about two-thirds fall of the grease and scum which you skim off from -the vat. It is yeasty stuff, and requires a good deal of room, at first, -to swell in when the heat is started. Keep up a moderate fire, so as to -boil it gently without scorching, and continue the boiling until the -cheesy portion is sufficiently cooked to sink to the bottom. Then allow -the batch to rest and cool down. Dip off the butter, while still warm -and oily, and carefully strain it into a clean tub. When cooled -sufficiently to begin to thicken somewhat, a little salt sprinkled on -the surface and thoroughly stirred in, as the farmers' wives sometimes -salt their lard, will help prevent it from getting rancid and stinking. -Set it in a cool place, and keep it covered tightly. Near the close of -the fall's operations, a nice tub of whey butter should be thus prepared -and set by for use the next spring--for, in the cold spring weather, -when cheese-making first commences, very little cream will rise on the -whey-vat, and it will take some time before a batch can be procured. - -In applying the whey-butter to the face of the cheese, no more should be -used than the surface of the cheese will absorb and leave it moist and -shiny. If enough is put on so that it will cool in streaks and stick to -whatever it touches, it should be wiped off, or it will daub the turner -or bench, and not only make unnecessary work in cleaning, but prevent a -hard, smooth rind from forming. Many give themselves a good deal of -annoyance by putting on too much grease. - -The next morning after the cheese has been set on the range, and had its -upper face greased with hot whey-butter, it should be turned over, when -a similar application of hot butter should be made to the other face. If -the cheese is well made and of good milk, and properly greased, as we -have indicated, more greasing will seldom be needed. A little care will -determine when more is needed, if at all. If the face begins to look dry -and feel harsh, in spite of thorough rubbing with the hands, call the -grease-brush into requisition again. In hot, dry weather--especially if -the air is allowed to strike the face of the cheese--a timely -application of more whey-butter may keep the face from cracking and save -considerable trouble. - -The cheeses should be regularly turned, for the first fortnight, every -day, and have their faces thoroughly rubbed and polished with the naked -hand. Nothing else will do so much to help form a satisfactory rind. A -cloth carried along should be used to wipe off any surplus grease on the -bench or turner, so as to prevent its daubing the next cheese and making -additional work. This same cloth, thus made greasy, will answer the -additional use of wiping off any mould that may be found collecting on -the bandage. - -In this way, a lot of cheese, with comparatively little additional work -and trouble, but a trifle more attention, can be kept looking clean and -wholesome; and if this neatness does not actually help improve the -quality of the cheese--we think it does--it will so much improve the -appearance, that you will not only be rewarded by the satisfaction -afforded, but can safely count on a fraction more from the buyer--enough -to more than pay for all the labor bestowed in curing. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -SKIPPERS. - - -One of the most annoying things in the drying-room is the cheese-fly. It -is very small but very effective in its way; and as it has the power to -so rapidly increase its numbers, it sometimes gives a good deal of -trouble. To a beginner, its ways seem almost past finding out, yet its -path often becomes disgustingly visible. - -We know of no sovereign remedy for these pests of the drying-room. The -best preventive is perfect cleanliness in all the surroundings. No pools -of whey or slops of any kind in, under or around the building, should be -allowed to furnish the first broods. But few factories are so arranged -as to leave no putrid whey-spouts or other receptacles for the eggs of -the fly. When hot weather comes on, the flies, therefore, swarm all -around the building; and most curing-rooms are so open as to afford them -easy access. Once in the room, the trouble and warfare begin, and cease -not until the dog-star no longer rages. - -The cheese-fly is not very particular where it deposits its -eggs--whether in the cracks in the benches or turners, in wrinkles in -the bandage, in the checks in the rind of the cheese, or on the smooth -face. If the weather is warm enough and there is the least bit of -moisture, the eggs will hatch anywhere around the cheese. As soon as -hatched, instinct leads the skipper to burrow in the cheese at once. It -is a mistaken idea, we think, that the fly inserts the eggs. It drops -them in clusters, wherever it is convenient. It may be on a turner, -which is standing idle. It is taken up thoughtlessly, clapped over a -cheese, which is turned on it, nicely covering the eggs, which hatch -between it and the rind, and the brood is soon found thriving nicely in -the cheese. Perhaps the eggs are laid on the smooth face of the cheese, -in plain sight, if one looks carefully enough for them. The next time -the cheese is turned, the eggs are in the same situation as those laid -on the turner. They may be laid on the bench, and the cheese set on -them. A careful hand, who is used to hunting eggs as well as skippers, -will look closely for them everywhere, and be sure that the face of no -cheese that has them on is turned down, and that no turner is used -containing them. In all these cases, care and neatness have their -advantages, and pay. - -If a cheese is leaky, look out for it. We have seen the eggs of the -cheese-fly deposited on the best cheeses; but sour, stinking, leaky -cheeses attract them most. Here they are in their natural element. The -eggs dropped on the moist cheese anywhere, even on the bandage, will do -remarkably well. They no sooner hatch, than the tiny worm works its way -through the bandage or rind into the cheese, and there he feasts, -fattens and grows. - -It is almost traditional that a skippery cheese is invariably a good -one. We admit that good cheese may be skippery--it is so, sometimes; but -the leaky, greasy, rank smelling and strong-tasting cheese, is the -skipper's delight. In such a cheese, he luxuriates in all his disgusting -glory. - -When skippers get into a cheese, we know of no better way than to dig or -cut them out as soon as possible. Their presence is at once indicated by -a moist spot, when the bottom face of the cheese is first turned up. -Greasing a piece of paper over the hole in the cheese, which is the -entrance of the skipper, will bring him to the surface after air, but it -does not kill him nor free the cheese from skippers. We say, cut them -out. Cut freely, and make sure work. If the spot is near the edge, a -wedge-shaped piece may be cut out, and a piece of another cheese--there -is usually one cut for patrons of a factory--can be fitted in, a second -bandage drawn over, and the cheese slipped into a hoop, when a little -pressing will smooth down all roughness and heal all scars. - -Some put cayenne pepper in whey-butter used for greasing cheeses. But, -though it may help keep flies off, it will not prevent trouble. They -will work their way wherever there is a chance for them. Dryness, -cleanliness and watchful care, are the only sure preventives of -skippers, in hot weather. To one who has had experience, it is not so -very difficult to guard against serious loss from skippery cheese. But -beginners need to be put on their guard--and for their benefit we have -penned this article on skippers. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - -CHEDDAR PROCESS. - - -During the summer of 1869, we had the pleasure of visiting the Spring -Creek and Slate Hill factories, in Montgomery county, under the charge -of Mr. ALEXANDER MACADAM. Mr. MACADAM'S father is an old cheese-maker, -who learned the Cheddar process from the celebrated English dairyman, -Mr. JOSEPH HARDING, of Somerset, about 1855. The son has had all the -advantages of the father's experience, and, in addition to an active, -inquiring and practical turn of mind, has had experience in one of the -heaviest cheese houses in London. If any one knows what good cheese is, -and what is required by the English taste, as well as by the American -market, we think Mr. ALEXANDER MACADAM does. He is, besides, -intelligent, free and communicative--ready to impart any information -within his knowledge. We propose to give as intelligible an account of -his process as we were able to pick up in our brief visit. But, as he -adopts in part the American method, and humors considerably American -ideas, we will first give a brief description of the real Cheddar -process, as explained in a pamphlet written by Mr. ROBERT MACADAM, of -Gorsty Hill Dairy, Crewe, who is the father of our host: - - - In describing the process of cheese-making, it is necessary to keep - in view some definite size of dairy; and for this reason, we will - allude in the present section to one making cheese from the milk of - 60 cows. - - As detailed in the paragraph on the morning's operations, the - evening's milk having cooled down to 62 deg., is lifted and sieved into - the cheese tub, and the morning's milk added to it, as it comes - from the cow-house. If the temperature of the milk, when thus - mixed, be under 78 deg., it must be raised to that degree of warmth, as - from 78 deg. to 80 deg. is the best temperature at which milk can be set - for coagulation. This may be effected either by warming a portion - of the milk among hot water to any temperature not above 150 deg., or, - when the cheese-tub is double-bottomed, by introducing a jet of - steam, or allowing the hot water to circulate. The quantity of milk - in the cheese-tub being one hundred and sixty-five gallons, the - requisite quantity of annotto is now added, and carefully mixed, to - produce a rich straw or cowslip color. Five quarts of sour whey - being added, and a quantity of rennet sufficient to coagulate the - mass of milk in sixty minutes, the whole is gently stirred and - completely mixed, covered over with a clean cloth, and allowed to - stand for coagulation. After the milk has stood for fifteen - minutes, the top or surface should be gently stirred, to prevent - the cream from ascending, and this must be repeated if the curd is - long in beginning to form. Hence it is preferable that the - coagulation should be completed in from fifty to sixty minutes, as - otherwise a waste of richness is likely to ensue. When the cream - shows a decided tendency to rise to the surface, it is advisable to - skim it off, previous to lifting the evening's milk, and warm it to - a temperature of 95 deg., as this prevents it from ascending, and - causes it to amalgamate more completely with the mass of milk set - for coagulation. In stirring the milk to prevent the cream from - ascending, the strictest attention should be observed to abstain - from doing so if the slightest degree of coagulation is perceived. - As soon as the curd has acquired a moderate degree of firmness, the - operation of breaking-up should be at once commenced, and must be - performed carefully, gently and minutely. This may be accomplished - by one person in about thirty minutes, when the revolving knife - breaker is employed, or by two persons in about the same time, when - the shovel or wire-breakers are used. Before this operation is - finished, a quantity of whey must be taken from the cheese-tub, - heated to 150 deg., and again poured upon the mass, stirring being - actively kept up beneath the stream, to prevent any portion of the - curd from being scalded. The quantity thus heated must be - sufficient to raise the temperature of the contents of the - cheese-tub to 80 deg., and the whole must be carefully and completely - mixed. The addition of warm whey raises the temperature, and - consequently hastens the separation of the whey from the curd, and - assists in promoting the necessary acidity. [If, however, the - presence of acidity can be detected by the smell or taste, no warm - whey should be used at this stage of the process.] The curd being - broken to a sufficient degree of fineness, it is allowed to remain - undisturbed for one hour, except when the acid exists in too great - a degree, in which case it should only stand during the time - occupied by warming the whey for scalding. The whey-separator is - then inserted, and the liquid allowed to run off until the surface - of the curd appears among the whey, after which the separator is - taken out, and the curd properly broken up with the shovel-breaker. - But before breaking up the curd, a quantity of whey should be - heated to 150 deg., for the purpose of scalding it. One person pours a - portion of this hot whey over the curd, while another stirs - actively beneath the stream with a shovel-breaker. The hot whey is - poured cautiously over the mass at intervals, and the stirring is - kept up gently but briskly, until the temperature is raised - gradually to 98 deg. or 100 deg. Fah. The stirring is continued, and the - temperature maintained, until the curd acquires a certain degree of - firmness and consistency, which it is difficult to describe, but - which the intelligent cheese-maker soon learns to recognize by its - appearance, and by its peculiarly elastic feel when handled. It is - therefore of the utmost importance to possess the discrimination - and tact necessary for discerning when the proper degree of - firmness and consistency has been attained. When the curd is - sufficiently "cooked," it is in small granular particles, firm and - elastic to the touch, and when a portion is taken in the hand and - squeezed, it does not readily adhere, but separates into particles. - The stirring must be continued till this peculiar consistency is - attained, without any regard to the length of time, but should on - no account be farther prolonged, because the cheese will then have - a tendency to be hard and stiff, and will require a longer time to - mature in the cheese-room. The length of time required for stirring - varies according to the previous condition of the milk, being from - twenty to thirty minutes when the acid exists in a sufficient - degree, or even double that time when the natural process of change - in the milk has been slow. This process of saturating the curd with - heated whey has the effect of completely separating the solid and - fluid parts, the only moisture left being that which adheres to the - particles, and which comes away under pressure. But when the - temperature is raised in this manner, or by heat from the bottom of - the cheese-tub, the utmost care is necessary to keep the curd from - being over-scalded, as, when the temperature is too suddenly - raised, part of buttraceous matter may be lost, and the small pulpy - particles get skinned over, inclosing a quantity of the whey, which - it is extremely difficult again to separate. If the milk has been - in proper condition to begin with, and the process carried on in - the manner thus detailed, the curd will retain all the natural - richness of the milk, and the cheese produced will have that rich - creamy taste and sweet milky flavor, something like the odor of new - milk, known as the _Cheddar flavor_. When the curd is raised (in - the manner described above) to the natural heat of the milk (98 deg.,) - or only one or two degrees above it, all the butter is retained and - fixed in the curd; for although subjected even at first to a - pressure of half a ton, little or no trace of butter will appear. - This is unquestionably a more rational and far superior method of - separating the whey from the curd than that of heating beside a - fire or in a furnace, with its attendant skewerings and changings. - - The next step in the continuation of the process is to insert the - separator, after the curd has been allowed to remain undisturbed in - the scald for the space of thirty minutes. After the whey is run - off, the curd is thrown up into a heap in the center of the - cheese-tub, covered over with a clean cheese-cloth, and the whey - allowed to drain away from it for another half-hour. At the end of - that time the curd is cut across, turned over in square lumps, - heaped up, covered as before, and then allowed to lie for half an - hour longer. The curd is then taken from the cheese-tub, laid upon - a cooler, split by the hand into thin flakes, and spread out to - cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly acid smell; it is - slightly sour, and by no means palatable; and its taste and - appearance are such as would lead a novice to think it unlikely to - produce a fine cheese. When the curd has been exposed on the cooler - for fifteen minutes, it is turned over, and allowed to lie for the - same length of time. It is then packed into a cheese-vat, having a - clean cloth under it, placed under the press for the space of ten - minutes, and subjected to a pressure of half a ton. When taken out, - it is ground in the mill, weighed, and returned to the cooler, and - if the acid is sufficiently developed, it should be at once salted, - cooled down to about 65 deg., and placed under pressure. The purest - refined salt should be used, and should be weighed and carefully - mixed with the mass, one pound of salt being sufficient for - fifty-six pounds of curd. - - When the acid is found to be insufficiently developed in the - previous stages of the process, the curd is allowed to lie - unsalted, and is stirred up occasionally, until the necessary - degree of acidity is acquired. The curd is then finally put into - the cheese-vat, and at once put under pressure, at first under a - weight of five or six cwt. The cheese is taken out of the press in - the evening, and a clean cloth put upon it, and being turned in the - vat, is subjected to a pressure of half a ton. Next morning, it is - again taken out, wrapped in a dry cloth, reversed in the vat, and - returned into the press with four cwt. additional pressure placed - upon it. On the following morning it receives its third and last - cloth, and when placed in the press, is now subjected to the - pressure of 18 cwt. In the evening, it is once more removed from - the press, gets a calico cap neatly stitched upon it, is reversed - in the vat, placed under a pressure of one ton till the following - morning, and is then finally taken from the press. The cheese is - then tightly bandaged to preserve its proper shape, and being - ticketed with its date and number, is carried to the cheese-room, - where it must be turned every day until fully ripe for market. - Cheeses may always be in the store-room in seventy-two hours after - they are first put into the press, and, indeed, they might be - placed there much earlier; only to insure consolidation, it is - preferable to maintain the pressure during the time specified. - - A diary or register should be kept, into which the date and number - of each cheese should be formally entered, together with such - remarks as may be needful and proper concerning the condition of - the milk, and the peculiarities of the curd, &c. The cheese-maker, - when testing the quality of any cheese after it is ripe, may learn - from the register the precise conditions of its manufacture, and - will thus be assisted in attaining that degree of excellence which - was laid down in the beginning of this work as a proper standard or - quality.[A] It will also be found highly useful to note down many - similar facts, such as the various yields of milk at particular - seasons, and from different kinds of pasture or house-feeding, as - the practice will not only give wide views of the subject, and - correct information regarding it, but will also tend greatly to - foster accurate and business-like habits. - - It is necessary to state distinctly the mode of procedure best - adapted for this contingency because the over-acidity of milk when - not detected and duly attended to in the process, produces a - corresponding blemish in the cheese. - - In very warm weather, when the temperature of the evening's milk - stands in the morning as high as 70 deg. or upwards, every part of the - process described in the previous section must be hastened. The - curd is broken more speedily than usual, and whey is taken off as - soon as possible, and quickly warmed for scalding. When the - operation of breaking is concluded, an interval of only five - minutes is allowed before the whey is run off. Scalding is then - proceeded with, but, under these circumstances, the curd and whey - should only be raised to the temperature of 98 deg.. When the proper - degree of firmness has been attained by stirring, the rest of the - whey is run off after another interval of five minutes, and when - the curd is heaped up, ten minutes only are allowed to elapse - before it is cut across and turned over. At the end of other ten - minutes, it is laid upon the cooler, in five minutes more it is - turned over, and at the end of other five it is put into the vat - and under the press. Having been subjected to pressure for five - minutes, the curd is taken out, ground in the mill, put back into - the cooler, and salted. It is then stirred up to cool, until the - temperature of the mass is reduced to 65 deg., when it is placed in the - vat, and subjected to the ordinary routine of pressure. It may be - stated, in illustration of the time occupied by these operations, - that if the curd be ready for breaking at eight o'clock, it may be - milled and salted by eleven. By expeditiously conducting every - stage of the process, excellent cheeses may be produced, even at - the above temperature; but when the ordinary time is allowed to - elapse before the curd is "cooked" and salted, the cheeses will - likely be sour. These rules and statements are based on the safe - ground of personal experience, for in a very warm season we have - made upwards of forty tons of cheese without one being sour. - - In these days of dispatch and outward display, when men seek so - eagerly for the shortest and easiest ways of doing things, some - will doubtless be found to carp at the minuteness and extent of the - foregoing details, and at the repeated injunction to strive after a - clear and intelligent conception of the principles on which this - branch of industry is founded. And many more, whose past experience - has been little else than a slothful compliance with false rules - and prejudices, may, perhaps, censure the system as too abstruse - and complicated. But all such objections are refuted by the simple - fact that no common product, made from raw material universally the - same, varies more in quality and value than cheese, from the one - cause of difference in the skill with which it is made. To attain - to excellence in cheese-making, it is absolutely necessary that the - hand and the head should work together. - - -The Cheddar process, as carried on at Spring Creek factory, is an -adaptation of the foregoing to American apparatus and implements, with -other variations. The milk is set in the usual manner, and at the usual -temperature--say, 82 deg. to 84 deg.. It is cut in the usual manner, and -gradually heated up to 98 deg.. Then the whole is allowed to stand, with -occasional stirring, until the whey is perceptibly acid. The day we were -there, we found the curd in the whey, and as much changed as is -generally considered by Americans sufficient for dipping and salting. -But as soon as a slight change is perceptible--indeed, as soon as any -one of the hands fancies it is changed--the whey is drawn off. If the -whey should still be sweet and the curd soft, there is no harm in -drawing off the whey. Then one end of the vat is raised, the curd is -poked away from the lower end, and the whey is allowed to drain out. If -the curd is quite soft, the further separation of the whey is -facilitated by cross-cuttings with a large butcher or groceryman's -cheese-knife. If it is well "cooked," this is not necessary. - -At the expiration of half an hour or so--provided the whey is not -rapidly taking on acid, in which case, at the expiration of five, ten, -or fifteen minutes, according to condition--the curd is cut into pieces -six or eight inches square, with the knife just mentioned; these pieces -are split laterally through the middle with the knife; the top and -bottom surfaces are put together, and the whole piled up along the sides -of the vat. The object of this operation is to get the cool surfaces -into the middle, to be influenced by the heat, and to give the already -heated center contact with the atmosphere. In a little while, the bottom -pieces are piled on top. The cutting and splitting operation may be -repeated at intervals of twenty or thirty minutes until the whey that -runs from the curd has much the taste of sour milk just before it begins -to lopper. - -The whey looks white and rich, and is really so; but it is claimed, that -there is not as much waste as is caused by keeping the curd in the whey -and stirring it, when the butter and cheese that escape are so diluted -as not to be noticed. - -When the whey draining from the curd has a decided sour-milk taste, the -accumulation is removed, the curd mill is set on the end of the vat, and -the large square pieces of curd thrown into the hopper and run through. -The mill tears them into pieces varying in size from that of a kernel of -corn to a butternut. When ground, two pounds and an eighth of salt are -sprinkled over the curd and stirred in. (Considering the dry state of -curd, this is really heavy salting--heavier than three pounds thrown on -the dripping curd, in the usual manner.) The salting done, the curd is -allowed to stand, with occasional stirring, as long as -convenient--indeed, the longer the better. It will take no harm after -being salted; and if a curd is at all tainted, or is made of sour-milk, -and is rather soft, it should be allowed to stand as long as possible, -and permit the hands to get it to press and ready to bandage the same -afternoon or evening. - -This is the simple process, as we saw it at Spring Creek factory. The -pressing and curing are not essentially different from the common -methods. Thorough pressing, however, is considered essential; and so is -an equable temperature in the drying room--which, by the way, Mr. -MACADAM did not have the advantage of, as the building was erected on -economical principles, with a very primitive but thorough system of -ventilation--not under his direction or supervision, however. - -With sour-milk, Mr. MACADAM hastens every stage of the process, up to -the time of salting. When the requisite degree of acid is developed, -even though the heat may not have gone above 90 deg., and the curd is very -soft, the whey is drawn off, and the curd repeatedly cut into small -squares with a knife, to facilitate the separation of the whey. The curd -is ground, and the salt thrown on--in less quantity--when the whey that -drains off has the proper sour milk taste. It is then allowed to stand -in the vat, and drain and harden, as long as the work of the factory -will permit. If it can remain a couple of days in the press, it is an -advantage. - -The curds prepared in the manner we have been describing for good milk, -does not have a very promising look to an American cheese-maker. It is -tough and stringy, and quite elastic. At least, such was the appearance -of the curd which we saw. It is proper to state, however, that it was -made of tainted milk, and the taint was quite marked in the curd. This, -Mr. MACADAM told us, was the condition of most of the milk and curds for -some weeks past in that factory; yet, the taint did not show in the -cheese on the ranges, except in a few instances where the curd had been -salted a little too sweet, as he thought. - -The great secret of his success, he seemed to think, was in getting rid -of the whey early, in allowing a good deal of acid to develop, -especially in tainted curds, in airing the curds and allowing the gases -to escape, and in salting well. - -Mr. MACADAM'S cheese, as a general thing, tried splendidly. It was firm, -flaky, buttery and fine-flavored. His opinion is, that American cheese -is, as a general rule, salted too sweet and too low, for the purpose of -having it cure quick for market; but it lacks good keeping qualities, -and verifies the old adage, "Soon ripe, soon rotten." It is hard to -overcome this desire for quick returns; but he would recommend those who -wish to improve American cheese, to sour rather more, salt a little -more, and color a little less--as little as the market will allow--as -coloring is believed to be positively injurious to quality. The -_tendency_ should be in these directions, in order to make a slower -curing, better keeping and better flavored article. - -But, it must be borne in mind, that Mr. MACADAM has in view his own -process of manufacture, and that allowances must be made for different -modes. Let each be ready to receive hints, make his own experiments, and -abide by his own decisions. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[A] "A good cheese is rich, without being greasy, with a sweet, nutty -flavor; clear, equal color throughout; of a compact, solid texture, -without being waxy; firm, yet melting easily in the mouth, and leaving -no rough flavor on the palate." - - - - -ADVERTISEMENTS - - -Utica Morning Herald - -BOOK AND JOB PRINTING - -ESTABLISHMENT, - -No. 60 Genesee St., Utica, N. Y., - -Possesses EXTENSIVE MODERN FACILITIES for all kinds of - -LETTER PRESS PRINTING, - -And increased attention will be paid to this department, under the -direction of - -R. W. ROBERTS. - -NEW STYLES OF TYPE, BORDERS, &C., - -are provided as they appear in the Eastern cities, and the - -Long Established Reputation - -of the office will be maintained, for - -THE BEST WORK AT THE LOWEST PRICES. - -MANUFACTURERS, -LAWYERS, -AND BUSINESS MEN, - -Will have their orders carefully and intelligently filled. - -ELLIS H. ROBERTS, Proprietor. - - -Utica Morning Herald - -AND DAILY GAZETTE, - -NINE DOLLARS A YEAR IN ADVANCE, contains more reading matter than any -other daily published in Central New York, including the Fullest and -Latest - -TELEGRAPHIC REPORTS, - -CORRESPONDENCE - -From the State and National Capitals, - -and elsewhere, while especial attention is bestowed on - -LOCAL AND GENERAL NEWS, - -and a high Literary Standard is aimed at. An - -AGRICULTURAL DEPARTMENT - -is well maintained especially designed for the - -Dairymen and Farmers - -of the Central and Northern Counties. - -The UTICA HERALD has by far the largest circulation in the City, and its - -AGGREGATE CIRCULATION IS OVER 12,000. - -ADVERTISE IN IT. - - -THE DAIRYMEN'S PAPER! - -THE UTICA WEEKLY HERALD - -has, since the first organization of the Dairymen's Association, -reported promptly and fully all of its proceedings and never more fully -and satisfactorily than the addresses and debates before the Convention -held in Utica in January, 1870. - -The UTICA HERALD also devotes especial attention to everything connected -with the dairy interest; to - -Diseases of Cattle and their Cure; The Manufacture of Butter and Cheese, -and to all Improved Processes and Apparatus. - -The weekly edition every Tuesday contains the report of the - -LITTLE FALLS MARKET OF THE PREVIOUS DAY. - -The UTICA HERALD has made the dairy interest a specialty, and in its -weekly edition devotes to it - -More Space and Attention than any other Paper in the Country. - -At the same time, the UTICA WEEKLY HERALD aims to be in all respects a - -FIRST-CLASS FAMILY PAPER. - -Its Editorial Articles - -are accepted and recognized as fitly speaking the Union sentiment, the -intelligent convictions, and the thoughtful aspirations of the million -of people which it represents. - -The UTICA HERALD, in its weekly as well as its morning edition, is -pre-eminently - -A NEWSPAPER. - -By thorough classification and elaborate condensation it presents the -gist of all the news in the briefest space, and the person who reads no -other journal, will not be ignorant of the current of events, and the -movement of men and principles. - -THE CORRESPONDENCE - -weekly published in our columns, from Washington, New York, Albany and -elsewhere, is not inferior in literary or political interest to that of -any other journal in the country. - -THE LITERARY DEPARTMENT - -will receive during the coming year, increased attention, and we trust -will deserve in even a higher degree than heretofore the encomiums which -have been bestowed upon it. - -ADVERTISE IN IT. - -Manufacturers and merchants wishing to reach dairymen and producers of -butter and cheese, can do so in no other way so readily and so cheaply, -as through the columns of the UTICA WEEKLY HERALD. - -THE TERMS. - -The UTICA WEEKLY HERALD is published at the low price of - -TWO DOLLARS A YEAR. - -Payment is required in advance. Taking into account the size and -character of the paper--its political, news, literary and agricultural -merits--it is believed that this is - -THE CHEAPEST PAPER PUBLISHED. - -Now is the time to form clubs. Let the circulation be doubled during the -current year. - -_Address, UTICA HERALD_, -60 Genesee Street, Utica, N. Y. - - -BOOK BINDING! - -THE OLD ESTABLISHED - -BOOK BINDERY, - -No. 60 GENESEE ST., UTICA, N. Y., - -(_Morning Herald Block_,) - -Has all the facilities for BINDING BOOKS, new and old, in as good style, -and at as low prices as can be obtained anywhere in New York or -elsewhere. - -Many families may gather a respectable library by gathering up their - -Magazines, Newspapers, and other Serials, - -And we are prepared to bind in any desirable style - -ATLANTIC MAGAZINE, -HARPER'S MAGAZINE, -KNICKERBOCKER MAGAZINE, -GRAHAM'S MAGAZINE, -PETERSON'S MAGAZINE, -HOME MAGAZINE, -LESLIE'S MAGAZINE, -BALLOU'S MAGAZINE, -LADY'S BOOK, -MUSIC, -LIBRARY BOOKS, -LAW BOOKS, -LESLIE'S PICTORIAL, -HARPER'S PICTORIAL, -BALLOU'S PICTORIAL, -ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWS, -SPENCER'S HISTORY OF UNITED STATES, -TALLIS'S SHAKESPEARE, -JOHNSON'S SHAKESPEARE, -BOYDELL'S SHAKESPEARE, -IRVING'S WASHINGTON, -LOSSING'S WASHINGTON, -SCRIPTURE HISTORY, -LIFE OF CHRIST, -HARPER'S BIBLE, -BROWN'S BIBLE, -FLETCHER'S BIBLE, -VIRTUE'S BIBLE, -DOUAY BIBLE, -ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ARTS AND SCIENCES, -SCIENTIFIC AMERICAN, -HINTON'S HISTORY OF UNITED STATES, - -And all newspapers, whether great or small, as well as collections of -Pamphlets, Manuscripts, or whatever else is worthy of preservation. - -Books will be bound in any style to suit the taste of our customers in - -Full Turkey Gilt, -Full Calf, Antique Finished, -Half Calf, or Half Turkey, - -or in Full Sheep, Full or Half Cloth, with Edges Gilt, Marbled, or -Sprinkled, as may be desired. - -Books sent by express or otherwise, will receive prompt -attention. Good Workmanship and Reasonable Prices warranted. - - -The Largest Fancy Goods House - -IN CENTRAL NEW YORK, - -W. M. STORRS, - -71 Genesee Street, Utica, - ---DEALER IN-- - -FOREIGN & DOMESTIC - -FANCY GOODS, - -Shot Guns, Rifles, Revolvers, Cartridges, -Ammunition, Fishing Tackle and -Sporting Apparatus of every -Description. - -Wooden & Willow Ware, - -HOUSE-KEEPING GOODS, - -Farm Baskets, Pails, Churns, &c., &c. - -CALL AND SEE MY IMMENSE STOCK. - -W. M. STORRS, -UTICA, N. Y. - - -READY-MADE CLOTHING! - -Every farmer in this and adjoining counties will find it to his -advantage to purchase his Clothing of - -C. A. YATES & CO., - -AT THE - -MARBLE BLOCK - -CLOTHING STORE. - -We pay particular attention to the quality of the Cloth, have every -garment substantially made, and guarantee durability. We also keep the - -LARGEST STOCK OF CLOTHING - -in this section of the country, and can therefore give the advantage of -an immense variety. Our prices will at all times be the lowest in the -market, and goods will be freely shown, whether for the purpose of -buying at the time or at some future time. We therefore _invite all to -call and see our store and stock, and to learn our prices_. - -Particular attention paid to - -Youth's and Boys' Clothing. - -The most extensive assortment in the county can be found at our store. - -When in search of Clothing, _Look for the Marble Block_, - -No. 54 Genesee St., Utica, N. Y. - -C. A. YATES & CO. - - -AMERICAN BUTTON HOLE, - -OVERSEAMING AND SEWING MACHINE. - -The cheapest as well as the best, since it combines a Button Hole, -Overseaming and Sewing Machine, in one simple form, making either the -Lock Stitch or Button Hole Stitch, as occasion may require; doing every -variety of sewing in a SUPERIOR MANNER, and in addition works a most -perfect Button Hole and Overseams nicely. - -Received a _First Premium_ at the New York State Fair, and numerous -other Fairs throughout the United States and Canada. - -[Illustration: LAMB KNITTING MACHINE] - -Knits Hosiery of all sizes. _Sets up its own work._ Knits the Heel and -narrows off the Toe, and knits a pair of socks in thirty minutes. - -The _only_ Knitting Machine in the world that can shape a stocking the -same as can be done when knit by hand. - -Will make four distinct webs, thus enabling the operator to do a great -variety of FANCY WORK. - -For samples of work, and circulars of both Sewing Machine and Knitting -Machine, address, - -H. J. HILLIARD, - -(BUTTERFIELD HOUSE.) 205 Genesee St., Utica. - - -HOWES & CLARK, - -Real Estate Brokers, - -178 GENESEE STREET, - -Z. M. HOWES,} UTICA, N. Y. -B. A. CLARK.} - -Agents for Sale, Purchase, Leasing, Care, and Management of Real Estate. - -Mortgages Negotiated and Investments Made. - -FIRE, LIFE AND ACCIDENTAL INSURANCE IN FIRST CLASS COMPANIES. - -_Deeds, Mortgages and Leases Drawn and Executed._ - - -The Best Dairy Paper! - -At a recent meeting of the Farmers' Club, of the American Institute, in -New York City, a correspondent asked for - -"The Best Paper - -IN THIS COUNTRY - -DEVOTED TO THE DAIRY INTEREST?" - -Mr. F. D. CURTIS, Vice President of the STATE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY, -answered, and it went on record as the - -SENTIMENT OF THE CLUB: - -"THE UTICA HERALD." - -THE UTICA WEEKLY HERALD - -IS ONLY - -TWO DOLLARS A YEAR, IN ADVANCE. - - -[Illustration: WOOD & MANN - -STEAM ENGINE CO.,] - -PORTABLE STEAM ENGINES, - -From 4 to 20 Horse Power. - -STATIONARY ENGINES, - -From 4 to 500 Horse Power. - -BOILERS OF ALL KINDS, - -CIRCULAR SAW MILLS, &C. - -Boilers Especially Adapted to Cheese Factories - -On Hand or Furnished on Short Notice. - -Having one of the Oldest, Largest and Most Complete Works in the United -States, especially adapted to the manufacture of Engines, Boilers, Saw -Mills, &c., we are able to furnish them, built of the very best -materials, and at the lowest prices at which work in any way equal, can -be obtained. - -Prices furnished on application. - -Wood & Mann Steam Engine Co., -UTICA, N. Y. - - -WILLIAM RALPH & CO., - -173 & 175 Genesee St., - -WM. RALPH, } UTICA, N. Y. -JOHN CARTON.} - -MANUFACTURERS OF AND DEALERS IN - -CHEESE-FACTORY AND FARM - -Dairy Apparatus, - -TOOLS, IMPLEMENTS - -AND - -FURNISHING GOODS, - -SUCH AS - -CHEESE VATS FOR FACTORIES, -CHEESE VATS FOR DAIRIES, -FACTORY WARMING AND -VENTILATING APPARATUS, WATER-HEATERS, -WEIGHING CANS, CARRYING CANS, -CHEESE PRESSES, PRESS SCREWS, - -WOOD PRESS HOOPS, METALLIC PRESS HOOPS, -MILK AGITATORS, "AMERICAN" CURD MILL, -CURD AGITATORS, LACTOMETERS, -MILK TEST GLASSES, CREAM GAUGES, -THERMOMETERS, STEEL CURD KNIVES, - -DRAINING SINKS, MILK CONDUCTORS, -PLATFORM SCALES, IMPROVED TIN MILK PAILS, -DAIRY PAILS, DAIRY DIPPERS, -CURD SCOOPS, WHEY STRAINERS, -RENNET JARS, -PATENT MILK CAN HANDLES, - -STENCIL PLATES, FACTORY MILK BOOKS, -ANNOTTA, SCALE BOARDS, -CHEESE BANDAGE, RENNETS, -MILK, WATER AND WHEY FAUCETS, -SINK CASTORS, CHEESE HOOPS, -HANDLES, &c., &c. - -All articles in our line are of the best kinds and most -approved patterns, and our prices as low as first class goods can be -furnished. - -Plans, Estimates, &c., for Cheese-Factories and Dairies, -together with other information pertaining thereto, will be cheerfully -furnished to parties interested, on application. - - -RALPH'S ONEIDA CHEESE VATS - -For Cheese Factories & Farm Dairies. - -ADAPTED TO ALL CLASSES, HOWEVER LARGE OR SMALL. - -(_See cut of 600 gallon, factory size, on cover._) - -This Cheese Vat is constantly growing in favor as its merits become -known; it is now used in about 500 Cheese Factories and 1400 Dairies. -From its construction and principle of operation--differing essentially -from all others,--a larger amount of cheese from a given amount of milk -can be made with it, with a much less consumption of fuel and labor. By -it _the heat is perfectly controllable, and distributed absolutely equal -in every part_, except that there is a slightly less amount at the -bottom of the Milk Vat; this is effected by the "EQUALIZER"--which is -not used in any other apparatus,--and is an advantage duly appreciated -by all good cheese-makers. - -These Vats are complete and ready for use on attaching smoke pipe, -involving the use of _no steam-boiler or pipes, brick arches or other -expensive appertenance_; are quite simple in arrangement, strong and -durable in construction. - -_Send for Descriptive Circular and Price List._ - -WM. RALPH & CO., - -UTICA, N. Y. - - -CHEESE FACTORY - -WARMING & VENTILATING APPARATUS. - -WE WOULD INVITE ATTENTION TO THIS ARTICLE: - -It is admirably adapted to securing a proper condition of the atmosphere -in the curing-room to facilitate the curing of the cheese, particularly -in cool and damp weather, in spring and fall, giving - -A Soft Genial Temperature Throughout the Building, - -favorable to a rapid and proper ripening of the cheese; there being no -more heat near the heater than in remote parts of the room. By a -suitable inlet and ventiducts, air from the outside may be conducted to -the heater and from thence distributed to all parts of the curing-room, -expelling the old and perhaps tainted air from the building. For further -information address, - -WM. RALPH & CO., - -UTICA, N. Y. - - -JONES & FAULKNER'S - -Dairy Furnishing Store, - -No. 141 GENESEE STREET, - -UTICA, N. Y. - -We beg leave to call your attention to our stock of Dairy Furnishing -Goods, being the only complete assortment in this line to be found in -the United States. Believing we can make it an object for you to -purchase of us, we earnestly solicit your patronage. - -We shall issue our Price List about the 1st of March. Those sending -their names to us, will receive a copy of the same by mail. - - -CHEESE VATS. - -WE SELL - -Ralph's and O'Neil's Patent Vats, Bagg's, Miller's, and Schermerhorn's -Patent Heaters, at Manufacturers' prices. - -HOOPS. - -ALL SIZES. - -Improved Hard Wood, Extra Hooped with Iron, Welded and Riveted Bands, -and Malleable Handles, also Galvanized Hoops. - -SCREWS. - -ALL STYLES AND SIZES. - -Wrought Iron, and of superior manufacture. - -BANDAGE. - -ALL WIDTHS. - -26, 28, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inch, Bleached and Unbleached. - -Linen Strainer and Linen and Cotton Press and Cap Cloth, also Bleached -and Brown Sheetings. - -STONE RENNET JARS. - -Sizes 8, 10, 12, 15 and 20 gallons. - -WEIGH and CARRYING CANS. - -ALL SIZES. - -With Patent Bottoms, and extra heavy Tin. - -Burnap's Concave Can Bottoms and Convex Tops, best thing made. - -DAIRY KNIVES. - -Young's celebrated Two Edged, Cast Steel, best in use, all sizes, with -Perpendicular and Horizontal Blades. - -ANNOTTO. - -Common, Medium, and Extra Fine, also Liquid Annato. - -RENNETS. - -_American and Imported, of superior quality and strength._ - -MISCELLANEOUS. - -Factory Account Books, all Sizes. - Curd Scoops, wood and tin. - Rubber and Tin Syphons and Strainers. - Rubber Mops and Aprons. - Improved Per Cent. Lactometers. - Alkali and Spirit Meters. -Legal Instruments for detecting impurities in Milk. - Glass Test Tubes. Cheese and Butter Tryers. - Indelible Marking Paste, red, blue and black. - Stencil Plates and Brushes. - Factory Brands. Factory Slates. - Factory Soldering Irons. -Weigh Can Gates, 3 in. Dairy Dippers. - Milk and Hot Water Faucets, all sizes. Conductor Heads. - Scale Boards, all sizes. - Wood, Iron and Lead Water Pipes - and Steam Pipes. -Curd Sink Castors. McAdams' English Curd Mills. - Platform Scales. Potash and Concentrated Lye. - New Style Brass Thermometers. - -Finally, every article used by Cheese Factory and Dairymen, pertaining -to the manufacture of Cheese. - -We also sell the Annual Reports of the American Dairymen's Association, -and McAdams' explanation of the Cheddar System. - -Factorymen wishing Cheese-Makers, will do well to apply to us, as we -have a list of First Class Makers desiring situations. - -Cheese-Makers who are competent, and can give satisfactory references, -may do well to make application to us. - -Goods ordered from us will be carefully packed and shipped as -directed to any part of the World. - -JONES & FAULKNER, - -No. 141 GENESEE STREET, - -UTICA, N. Y. - - -GREAT REDUCTION IN THE PRICE OF CLOTHING! - -Some of the BARGAINS to be found at the -GREAT WARDROBE. -CALL AND INSPECT THEM. - -BLACK BROADCLOTH FROCKCOATS, Only Seven Dollars. -HEAVY BLACK DOESKIN PANTS, Only Four Dollars. -FINE BLACK DOESKIN VESTS, Only Two Dollars and Fifty Cents. -HEAVY STOUT PANTS, (BLACK OR MIXED,) Only Three Dollars. -HEAVY MOSCOW BEAVER OVERCOATS, Only Fifteen Dollars. -HEAVY AND WARM OVERCOATS, Only Six Dollars and Fifty Cents. -GOOD ALL WOOL OVERCOATS, Only Seven Dollars. -HEAVY ALL WOOL SACKCOATS, Only Six Dollars. - -A LARGE STOCK OF BOYS' CLOTHING, - -A Good Share at Cost, and part Less than Cost. - -A Splendid Assortment of -FURNISHING GOODS, -Cheaper than at any other Store. - -The New and Elegant "IRVING" PAPER COLLAR, Only Ten Cents per Box. -FINE LINEN COLLARS, Only One Dollar and Fifty Cents per Dozen. -GOOD WHITE SHIRTS, Only One Dollar Each. -QUAKER CITY FINE SHIRTS, the Best Shirts in the United States. - Those Made from New York Mills Muslin, Only Three Dollars Each. - From Wamsutta Muslin, Only Two Dollars and Seventy-five Cents. - Lower Grades of the same make, at Two Dollars and Fifty Cents and - Two Dollars Each. - -Don't Fail to Examine these Shirts--It may be an Advantage to You. - -FINE WHITE WRAPPERS AND DRAWERS, Only One Dollar Each. -HEAVY MIXED WRAPPERS AND DRAWERS, Only Fifty Cents Each. - -CALL AT THE -GREAT WARDROBE -THE MODEL CLOTHING STORE, -110 & 112 Genesee St., Utica, N. Y. - -CHARLES C. KINGSLEY. - -Agents for the Double Warp Royal Standard Alpacas. -We Make a Specialty of Flannels and Blankets. - -[Illustration] - -AGENTS FOR MATIER & CO., OF BELFAST, LINEN MANUFACTURERS. -Agents for Williston's Combed Sea Island Machine Thread. - -V. B. STEWART & CO., -Manufacturers of and Dealers in -CLOAKS, -DRY & FANCY GOODS, -Silks, Shawls, Dress Goods, Cloakings, -CARPETS, OIL CLOTHS, MATS, &c., -Nos. 166 & 168 Genesee Street, Utica, N. Y. - - -CHAMBERLAIN & CUSHMAN, ---GENERAL AGENTS FOR THE-- -Singer's Sewing Machines ---AND-- -BICKFORD FAMILY KNITTING MACHINE, - -FOR THE COUNTIES OF - -Chenango, Herkimer, Jefferson, Lewis, Oneida, Otsego -and St. Lawrence. - -113 GENESEE ST., UTICA, N. Y. - -The Celebrated Singer Family Sewing Machine, one of the oldest and most -reliable Sewing Machines in use. It has been very much improved in the -past year, making it the most quiet and easiest running shuttle machine -now in use. It is adapted to a greater range of work than any other one -machine, sewing from the finest tuck in Tarliton to a heavy Beaver coat. -Its Attachments for Hemming, Braiding, Cording, Tucking, Quilting, -Felling, Trimming, Binding, Ruffling and Embroidering, are novel and -practical, and have been invented and adjusted especially for this -Machine. There is now nearly 400,000 in use. There is now being made and -sold over 4,000 machines each week, which is one of its best -recommendations over other machines. It is perfectly simple and easy to -learn. Don't fail to see one before purchasing a machine. - -THE BICKFORD KNITTING MACHINE - -Will Knit 15,000 stitches or 18 inches of Perfect Work in a Minute. - -Socks complete and whole with double heel and toe. Strips from 1 to 12 -inches wide, with selvedge on each edge. Fringe of any length, Cord of -any size, and Tufting of any style. - -PRICE 30 DOLLARS. - - -TAYLOR & CO.'S -Jewelry Establishment, -70 GENESEE ST., UTICA, N. Y. - -AMERICAN WATCHES, -COMPRISING THE - -[Illustration] - -HOWARD WATCH, -WALTHAM WATCH, - -ELGIN WATCH, -UNITED STATES WATCH, - -ALL AT FACTORY PRICES, -In Gold and Silver Cases. - -In SOLID SILVER WARE, of Gorham Manufacture, and in FINE SILVER PLATED -WARE, of Rogers & Bros. make, we have a great variety of the very best -patterns. - -In ELEGANT JEWELRY we have the newest and most desirable patterns, -consisting of - -Gold Chains, Sets--Pins and Ear-Rings, Finger-Rings, -Lockets, Bracelets, Sleeve-Buttons, -Studs, &c., &c. - -Purchasers of any articles in our line are invited to give us a call. -All goods warranted. - -W. S. TAYLOR & CO., 70 Genesee St. - - -THE GENUINE - -OR, - -Elias Howe Sewing Machine. - -[Illustration: THIS MEDALLION IS EMBEDDED IN EVERY GENUINE HOWE SEWING -MACHINE] - -Hemmer, - Feller, - Binder, -Braider, - Quilter, - Self-Baster, -Corder, - (adjustable foot,) - Embroidery - Attachment, - and Gage. - -SOLD ONLY AT -87 GENESEE ST., UTICA. - -OVERTON & BUCKINGHAM, Agents. - -N. B.--None genuine without the Trade Mark, (Medallion Profile of ELIAS -HOWE, Jr.,) is imbedded in the Machine. This is the GENUINE HOWE. Prof. -"ELIAS HOWE, Jr., the inventor, has - -+The Exclusive Right to Make and Sell this Machine+." - -Decision, Judge INGRAHAM--May, 1867. - -_Awarded the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honor, the Grand Gold Medal -and a Silver Medal, Paris Exposition, 1867; the Grand Gold Medal, -London, 1862; Six First Premiums, N. Y. State Fair, 1867, on Machine and -Samples of Work._ - -Also, the following STATE FAIRS of 1868, have awarded this Machine the - -FIRST PREMIUM: - -New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts. -Vermont, New Hampshire, Wisconsin, Indiana. - -At the County Fairs of Madison, Onondaga, Oswego, Wayne, Orleans, -Tompkins, Seneca, Monroe, Herkimer, Schuyler, Livingston and a host of -others, and Town Fairs too numerous to mention. - -_Agents for the NEW WILLISTON THREAD, made of Combed Sea Island Cotton._ - - -PECKHAM'S POPULAR COOKING STOVE. - -[Illustration: P.P.C.] - -A New Strictly First Class Cooking Stove, - -_FOR COAL AND WOOD_. - -Unequalled and Warranted - -IN EVERY RESPECT. - -The Success and Superiority of this new Stove is Established beyond a -doubt. - -For its Economy of Fuel, Spacious Ovens, Splendid Baking Qualities, -Facilities for Keeping Fire for great length of time, Extra Weight and -Quality of Castings, and Superior Fitting of the Joints. - -New Patent Movable Reservoir, New Patent Sectional Fire-Plate, New -Patent Sad Iron Heater, New Patent Roaster. _All Valuable Improvements._ -Call and Examine the Stoves and get Circulars with Testimonials. - -MANUFACTURED AND SOLD BY -J. S. & M. PECKHAM, -20 Catharine St., Utica, N. Y. - - -PECKHAM'S - -NEW PATTERN - -Agricultural Furnace & Boiler, - -[Illustration] - -Warranted to Boil with Less Fuel and in Less Time than any Boiler Made. - -This Furnace is used to great advantage by _Cheese-Makers, Farmers, -Butchers, Bakers and Hotel Keepers_, and for various other Manufacturing -and Mechanical purposes. - -The Flues of this Boiler are so constructed that the whole surface of -the Caldron is heated at the same time. They are portable, and require -only a few lengths of pipe to fit them for use, and possess great -advantages over Caldron Kettles set in brick. - -J. S. & M. PECKHAM, -Sole Manufacturers, Utica, N. Y. - - -THE PREMIUM HARVESTER - -OF AMERICA. - -[Illustration: ON THE ROAD.] - -THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY PREMIUM - -BUCKEYE MOWER - -AND COMBINED - -SELF-RAKING REAPER. - -Awarded the _Highest_ Premium both in _Mowing and Self-Raking_, at the -most important field trials ever held in _any_ country. - -Over 125,000 now in use. - -30,000 sold in a single season. - -MANUFACTURED BY - -ADRIANCE, PLATT & CO., - -FOR - -J. M. CHILDS & CO., UTICA, N. Y. - -Office, 121 Genesee Street. - -Circulars forwarded by mail. - - -HINTS - -ON - -CHEESE-MAKING, - -FOR THE - -Dairyman, the Factoryman, - -AND THE - -MANUFACTURER. - -BY T. D. CURTIS. - -UTICA, N. Y. - -ROBERTS, PRINTER, MORNING HERALD ESTABLISHMENT. - -1870. - - -THE BEST DAIRY PAPER! - -At a recent meeting of the Farmers' Club, of the American Institute, in -New York City, a correspondent asked for "THE BEST PAPER IN THIS COUNTRY - -DEVOTED TO THE DAIRY INTEREST?" - -Mr. F. D. CURTIS, Vice-President of the _State Agricultural Society_, -answered, and it went on record as the SENTIMENT OF THE CLUB: - -"THE UTICA HERALD." - -THE UTICA WEEKLY HERALD - -Is Only Two Dollars a Year, in advance. - - -THE DAIRYMEN'S PAPER! - -THE UTICA WEEKLY HERALD - -has, since the first organization of the Dairymen's Association, -reported promptly and fully all of its proceedings and never more fully -and satisfactorily than the addresses and debates before the Convention -held in Utica in January, 1870. - -The UTICA HERALD also devotes especial attention to everything connected -with the dairy interest; to - -Diseases of Cattle and their Cure; The Manufacture of Butter and Cheese, -and to all Improved Processes and Apparatus. - -The weekly edition every Tuesday contains the report of the - -LITTLE FALLS MARKET OF THE PREVIOUS DAY. - -The UTICA HERALD has made the dairy interest a specialty, and in its -weekly edition devotes to it - -More Space and Attention than any other Paper in the Country. - -At the same time, the UTICA WEEKLY HERALD aims to be in all respects a - -FIRST-CLASS FAMILY PAPER. - -Its Editorial Articles - -are accepted and recognized as fitly speaking the Union sentiment, the -intelligent convictions, and the thoughtful aspirations of the million -of people which it represents. - -The UTICA HERALD, in its weekly as well as its morning edition, is -pre-eminently - -A NEWSPAPER. - -By thorough classification and elaborate condensation it presents the -gist of all the news in the briefest space, and the person who reads no -other journal, will not be ignorant of the current of events, and the -movement of men and principles. - -THE CORRESPONDENCE - -weekly published in our columns, from Washington, New York, Albany and -elsewhere, is not inferior in literary or political interest to that of -any other journal in the country. - -THE LITERARY DEPARTMENT - -will receive during the coming year, increased attention, and we trust -will deserve in even a higher degree than heretofore the encomiums which -have been bestowed upon it. - -ADVERTISE IN IT. - -Manufacturers and merchants wishing to reach dairymen and producers of -butter and cheese, can do so in no other way so readily and so cheaply, -as through the columns of the UTICA WEEKLY HERALD. - -THE TERMS. - -The UTICA WEEKLY HERALD is published at the low price of - -TWO DOLLARS A YEAR. - -Payment is required in advance. Taking into account the size and -character of the paper--its political, news, literary and agricultural -merits--it is believed that this is - -THE CHEAPEST PAPER PUBLISHED. - -Now is the time to form clubs. Let the circulation be doubled during the -current year. - -_Address_, _UTICA HERALD_, -60 Genesee Street, Utica, N. Y. - - -WILLIAM RALPH & CO., - -MANUFACTURERS OF - -ONEIDA CHEESE VATS, - -FOR CHEESE-FACTORIES AND DAIRIES. - -(See Advertisements Inside.) - -[Illustration] - -Address, WILLIAM RALPH & CO., 173 and 175 Genesee St., Utica, N. Y. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Hints on cheese-making, by Thomas Day Curtis - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HINTS ON CHEESE-MAKING *** - -***** This file should be named 43323.txt or 43323.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/3/2/43323/ - -Produced by Mark C. 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