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diff --git a/4328.txt b/4328.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..822db1d --- /dev/null +++ b/4328.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8017 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Two Expeditions into the Interior of +Southern Australia, Volume I, by Charles Sturt + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Two Expeditions into the Interior of Southern Australia, Volume I + +Author: Charles Sturt + +Posting Date: June 29, 2009 [EBook #4328] +Release Date: August, 2003 +First Posted: January 8, 2002 +Last Updated: July 28, 2002 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO EXPEDITIONS--SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA *** + + + + +Produced by Col Choat. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + + + + + +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, + +VOLUME I + + +by + +CHARLES STURT + + + + + +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA DURING THE +YEARS 1828,1829,1830,1831 WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND +GENERAL RESOURCES OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES. + +IN TWO VOLUMES + + + + +VOLUME I. + + +"For though most men are contented only to see a river as it runs by +them, and talk of the changes in it as they happen; when it is +troubled, or when clear; when it drowns the country in a flood, or +forsakes it in a drought: yet he that would know the nature of the +water, and the causes of those accidents (so as to guess at their +continuance or return), must find out its source, and observe with what +strength it rises, what length it runs, and how many small streams fall +in, and feed it to such a height, as make it either delightful or +terrible to the eye, and useful or dangerous to the country about +it."...SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE'S NETHERLANDS. + + + +TO THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF RIPON, VISCOUNT GODERICH, Lord Privy Seal +&c. &c. &c. + + + +MY LORD, + +The completion of this Work affords me the opportunity I have long +desired of thanking your Lordship thus publicly, for the kindness with +which you acceded to my request to be permitted to dedicate it to you. + +The encouragement your Lordship was pleased to give me has served to +stimulate me in the prosecution of a task, which would, I fear, have +been too great for me to have accomplished in my present condition, +under any ordinary views of ambition. Indeed, labouring as I have been +for many months past, under an almost total deprivation of sight, (the +effect of exposure and anxiety of mind in the prosecution of +geographical researches,) I owe it to the casual assistance of some of +my friends, that I am at length enabled to lay these results before +your Lordship and the public. + +While I feel a painful conviction that many errors must necessarily +pervade a work produced under such unfavourable circumstances, it +affords me no small consolation to reflect that Your Lordship has been +aware of my situation, and will be disposed to grant me every +reasonable indulgence. + +I have the honor to be, With the highest respect, My Lord, Your +Lordship's Very obedient and humble servant, + +CHARLES STURT + London, June, 1833. + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME + + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +Purpose of this Chapter--Name of Australia--Impressions of its early +Visitors--Character of the Australian rivers--Author's first view of +Port Jackson--Extent of the Colony of New South Wales--its rapid +advances in prosperity--Erroneous impressions--Commercial importance of +Sydney--Growth of fine wool--Mr. M'Arthur's meritorious +exertions--Whale-fishery--Other exports--Geographical features--Causes +of the large proportion of bad soil--Connection between the geology and +vegetation--Geological features--Character of the soil connected with +the geological formation--County of Cumberland--Country westward of the +Blue Mountains--Disadvantages of the remote settlers--Character of the +Eastern coast--Rich tracts in the interior--Periodical droughts--The +seasons apparently affected by the interior +marshes--Temperature--Fruits--Emigrants: Causes of their success or +failure--Moral disadvantages--System of emigration recommended--Hints +to emigrants--Progress of inland discovery--Expeditions across the Blue +Mountains--Discoveries of Mr. Evans, Mr. Oxley, and others--Conjectures +respecting the interior. + + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MACQUARIE RIVER, AND INTO THE WESTERN INTERIOR IN +1828 AND 1829. + + +CHAPTER I. + + +State of the Colony in 1828-29--Objects of the Expedition--Departure +from Sydney--Wellington Valley--Progress down the Macquarie--Arrival at +Mount Harris--Stopped by the marshes--Encamp amidst reeds--Excursions +down the river--Its termination--Appearance of the marshes--Opthalmic +affection of the men--Mr. Hume's successful journey to the +northward--Journey across the plain--Second great +marsh--Perplexities--Situation of the exploring party--Consequent +resolutions. + + +CHAPTER II. + + +Prosecution of our course into the interior--Mosquito Brush--Aspect and +productions of the country--Hunting party of natives--Courageous +conduct of one of them--Mosquitoes--A man missing--Group of hills +called New-Year's Range--Journey down New-Year's Creek--Tormenting +attack of the kangaroo fly--Dreariness and desolation of the +country--Oxley's Table Land--D'Urban's Group--Continue our journey down +New-Year's Creek--Extreme Disappointment on finding it salt--Fall in +with a tribe of natives--Our course arrested by the want of fresh +water--Extraordinary sound--Retreat towards the Macquarie. + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Intercourse with the natives--Their appearance and condition--Remarks +on the Salt or Darling River--Appearance of the marshes on our +return--Alarm for safety of the provision party--Return to Mount +Harris--Miserable condition of the natives--Circumstances attending the +slaughter of two Irish runaways--Bend our course towards the +Castlereagh--Wallis's Ponds--Find the famished natives feeding on +gum--Channel of the Castlereagh--Character of the country in its +vicinity--Another tribe of natives--Amicable intercourse with +them--Morrisset's chain of Ponds--Again reach the Darling River ninety +miles higher up than where we first struck upon it. + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Perplexity--Trait of honesty in the natives--Excursion on horseback +across the Darling--Forced to return--Desolating effects of the +drought--Retreat towards the colony--Connection between the Macquarie +and the Darling--Return up the banks of the Macquarie--Starving +condition of the natives. + + +CHAPTER V. + + +General remarks--Result of the expedition--Previous anticipations--Mr. +Oxley's remarks--Character of the Rivers flowing westerly--Mr. +Cunningham's remarks--Fall of the Macquarie--Mr. Oxley's erroneous +conclusions respecting the character of the interior, naturally +inferred from the state in which he found the country--The marsh of the +Macquarie merely a marsh of the ordinary character--Captain King's +observations--Course of the Darling--Character of the low interior +plain--The convict Barber's report of rivers traversing the +interior--Surveyor-General Mitchell's Report of his recent expedition. + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Concluding Remarks--Obstacles that attend travelling into the interior +of Australia--Difficulty of carrying supplies--Importance of steady +intelligent subordinates--Danger from the natives--Number of men +requisite,--and of cattle and carriages--Provisions--Other +arrangements--Treatment of the natives--Dimensions of the boat used in +the second expedition. + + +APPENDIX. + + No. I. Letter of Instructions + No. II. List of Stores supplied for the Expedition + No. III. Sheep-farming Returns + No. IV. List of Geological Specimens + No. V. Official Report to the Colonial Government, (Jan. 1829.) + No. VI. Ditto (April 1829.) + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE FIRST VOLUME + +(Not included in this etext) + + Native Burial Place near Budda + Vice Admiral Arthur Phillip + Cataract of the Macquarie + A Selenite + Chrystallized Sulphate of Lime + + + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER + + +Purpose of this Chapter--Name of Australia--Impressions of its early +Visitors--Character of the Australian rivers--Author's first view of +Port Jackson--Extent of the Colony of New South Wales--its rapid +advances in prosperity--Erroneous impressions--Commercial importance of +Sydney--Growth of fine wool--Mr. M'Arthur's meritorious +exertions--Whale-fishery--Other exports--Geographical features--Causes +of the large proportion of bad soil--Connection between the geology and +vegetation--Geological features--Character of the soil connected with +the geological formation--County of Cumberland--Country westward of the +Blue Mountains--Disadvantages of the remote settlers--Character of the +Eastern coast--Rich tracts in the interior--Periodical droughts--The +seasons apparently affected by the interior +marshes--Temperature--Fruits--Emigrants: Causes of their success or +failure--Moral disadvantages--System of emigration recommended--Hints +to emigrants--Progress of inland discovery--Expeditions across the Blue +Mountains--Discoveries of Mr. Evans, Mr. Oxley, and others--Conjectures +respecting the interior. + + +PURPOSE OF THIS PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +When I first determined on committing to the press a detailed account +of the two expeditions, which I conducted into the interior of the +Australian continent, pursuant to the orders of Lieutenant General +Darling, the late Governor of the Colony of New South Wales, it was +simply with a view of laying their results before the geographical +world, and of correcting the opinions that prevailed with regard to the +unexplored country to the westward of the Blue Mountains. I did not +feel myself equal either to the task or the responsibility of venturing +any remarks on the Colony of New South Wales itself. I had had little +time for inquiry, amidst the various duties that fell to my lot in the +ordinary routine of the service to which I belonged, when unemployed by +the Colonial Government in the prosecution of inland discoveries. My +observations had been in a great measure confined to those points which +curiosity, or a desire of personal information, had prompted me to +investigate. I did not, therefore, venture to flatter myself that I had +collected materials of sufficient importance on general topics to +enable me to write for the information of others. Since my return to +England, however, I have been strenuously urged to give a short +description of the colony before entering upon my personal narrative; +and I have conversed with so many individuals whose ideas of Australia +are totally at variance with its actual state, that I am encouraged to +indulge the hope that my observations, desultory as they are, may be of +some interest to the public. I am strengthened in this hope by the +consideration that some kind friends have enabled me to add much +valuable matter to that which I had myself collected. It is not my +intention, however, to enter at any length on the commercial or +agricultural interests of New South Wales. It may be necessary for me +to touch lightly on those important subjects, but it is my wish to +connect this preliminary chapter, as much as possible with the subjects +treated of in the body of the work, and chiefly to notice the physical +structure, the soil, climate, and productions of the colony, in order +to convey to the reader general information on these points, before I +lead him into the remote interior. + +NAME OF AUSTRALIA. + +It may be worthy of remark that the name "Australia," has of late years +been affixed to that extensive tract of land which Great Britain +possesses in the Southern Seas, and which, having been a discovery of +the early Dutch navigators, was previously termed "New Holland." The +change of name was, I believe, introduced by the celebrated French +geographer, Malte Brun, who, in his division of the globe, gave the +appellation of Austral Asia and Polynesia to the new discovered lands +in the southern ocean; in which division he meant to include the +numerous insular groups scattered over the Pacific. + +IMPRESSIONS OF ITS EARLY VISITORS. + +Australia is properly speaking an island, but it is so much larger than +every other island on the face of the globe, that it is classed as a +continent in order to convey to the mind a just idea of its magnitude. +Stretching from the 115th to the 153rd degree of east longitude, and +from the 10th to the 37th of south latitude, it averages 2700 miles in +length by 1800 in breadth; and balanced, as it were, upon the tropic of +that hemisphere in which it is situated, it receives the fiery heat of +the equator at one extremity, while it enjoys the refreshing coolness +of the temperate zone at the other. On a first view we should be led to +expect that this extensive tract of land possessed more than ordinary +advantages; that its rivers would be in proportion to its size; and +that it would abound in the richest productions of the inter-tropical +and temperate regions. Such, indeed, was the impression of those who +first touched upon its southern shores, but who remained no longer than +to be dazzled by the splendour and variety of its botanical +productions, and to enjoy for a few days the delightful mildness of its +climate. But the very spot which had appeared to Captain Cook and Sir +Joseph Banks an earthly paradise, was abandoned by the early settlers +as unfit for occupation; nor has the country generally been fount to +realize the sanguine expectations of those distinguished individuals, +so far as it has hitherto been explored. + +CHARACTER OF AUSTRALIAN RIVERS. + +Rivers which have the widest mouths or the most practicable entrances, +are, in Europe or America, usually of impetuous current, or else +contain such a body of water as to bear down all opposition to their +free course; whilst on the other hand, rivers whose force is expended +ere they reach the sea, have almost invariably a bar at their +embouchure, or where they mingle their waters with those of the ocean. +This last feature unfortunately appears to characterize all rivers of +Australia, or such of them at least as are sufficiently known to us. +Falling rapidly from the mountains in which they originate into a level +and extremely depressed country; having weak and inconsiderable +sources, and being almost wholly unaided by tributaries of any kind; +they naturally fail before they reach the coast, and exhaust themselves +in marshes or lakes or reach it so weakened as to be unable to preserve +clear or navigable months, or to remove the sand banks that the tides +throw up before them. On the other hand the productions of this +singular region seem to be peculiar to it, and unlike those of any +other part of the world; nor have any indigenous fruits of any value as +yet been found either in its forests or on its plains. + +He who has never looked on any other than the well-cultured fields of +England, can have little idea of a country that Nature has covered with +an interminable forest. Still less can he estimate the feelings with +which the adventurer approaches a shore that has never (or perhaps only +lately) been trodden by civilized man. + +FIRST VIEW OF PORT JACKSON. + +It was with feelings peculiar to the occasion, that I gazed for the +first time on the bold cliffs at the entrance of Port Jackson, as our +vessel neared them, and speculated on the probable character of the +landscape they hid; and I am free to confess, that I did not anticipate +anything equal to the scene which presented itself both to my sight and +my judgment, as we sailed up the noble and extensive basin we had +entered, towards the seat of government. A single glance was sufficient +to tell me that the hills upon the southern shore of the port, the +outlines of which were broken by houses and spires, must once have been +covered with the same dense and gloomy wood which abounded every where +else. The contrast was indeed very great--the improvement singularly +striking. The labour and patience required, and the difficulties which +the first settlers encountered effecting these improvements, must have +been incalculable. But their success has been complete: it is the very +triumph of human skill and industry over Nature herself. The cornfield +and the orchard have supplanted the wild grass and the brush; a +flourishing town stands over the ruins of the forest; the lowing of +herds has succeeded the wild whoop of the savage; and the stillness of +that once desert shore is now broken by the sound of the bugle and the +busy hum of commerce. + +EXTENT OF NEW SOUTH WALES AND DIVISIONS OF THE COLONY. + +The Colony of New South Wales is situated upon the eastern coast of +Australia; and the districts within which land has been granted to +settlers, extends from the 36th parallel of latitude to the 32nd, that +is say, from the Moroyo River to the south of Sydney on the one hand, +and to the Manning River on the other, including Wellington Valley +within its limits to the westward. Thus it will appear that the +boundaries of the located parts of the colony have been considerably +enlarged, and some fine districts of country included within them. In +consequence of its extent and increasing population, it has been found +convenient to divide it into counties, parishes, and townships; and +indeed, every measure of the Colonial Government of late years, has had +for its object to assimilate its internal arrangements as nearly as +possible, to those of the mother country. Whether we are to attribute +the present flourishing state of the colony to the beneficial influence +of that system of government which has been exercised over it for the +last seven years it is not for me to say. That the prosperity of a +country depends, however, in a great measure, on the wisdom of its +legislature, is as undoubted, as that within the period I have +mentioned the colony of N. S. Wales has risen unprecedentedly in +importance and in wealth, and has advanced to a state of improvement at +which it could not have arrived had its energies been cramped or its +interests neglected. + +ITS ADVANCES IN PROSPERITY. + +There is a period in the history of every country, during which it will +appear to have been more prosperous than at any other. I allude not to +the period of great martial achievements, should any such adorn its +pages, but to that in which the enterprise of its merchants was roused +into action, and when all classes of its community seem to have put +forth their strength towards the attainment of wealth and power. + +ERRONEOUS IMPRESSIONS. + +In this eventful period the colony of New South Wales is already far +advanced. The conduct of its merchants is marked by the boldest +speculations and the most gigantic projects. Their storehouses are +built on the most magnificent scale, and with the best and most +substantial materials. Few persons in England have even a remote idea +of its present flourishing condition, or of the improvements that are +daily taking place both in its commerce and in its agriculture. I am +aware that many object to it as a place of residence, and I can easily +enter into their feelings from the recollection of what my own were +before I visited it. I cannot but remark, however, that I found my +prejudices had arisen from a natural objection to the character of a +part of its population; from the circumstance of its being a penal +colony, and from my total ignorance of its actual state, and not from +any substantial or permanent cause. On the contrary I speedily became +convinced of the exaggerated nature of the reports I had heard in +England, on some of the points just adverted to; nor did any thing fall +under my observation during a residence in it of more than six years to +justify the opinion I had been previously led to entertain of it. I +embarked for New South Wales, with strong prejudices against it: I left +it with strong feelings in its favour, and with a deep feeling of +interest in its prosperity. It is a pleasing task to me, therefore, to +write of it thus, and to have it in my power to contribute to the +removal of any erroneous impressions with regard to its condition at +the present moment. + +COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE OF SYDNEY. + +I have already remarked, that I was not prepared for the scene that met +my view when I first saw Sydney. The fact was, I had not pictured to +myself; nor conceived from any thing that I had ever read or heard in +England, that so extensive a town could have been reared in that remote +region, in so brief a period as that which had elapsed since its +foundation. It is not, however, a distant or cursory glance that will +give the observer a just idea of the mercantile importance of this busy +capital. In order to form an accurate estimate of it, he should take a +boat and proceed from Sydney Cove to Darling Harbour. He would then be +satisfied, that it is not upon the first alone that Australian commerce +has raised its storehouse and wharfs, but that the whole extent of the +eastern shore of the last more capacious basin, is equally crowded with +warehouses, stores, dockyards, mills, and wharfs, the appearance and +solidity of which would do credit even to Liverpool. Where, thirty +years ago, the people flocked to the beach to hail an arrival, it is +not now unusual to see from thirty to forty vessels riding at anchor at +one time, collected there from every quarter of the globe. In 1832, one +hundred and fifty vessels entered the harbour of Port Jackson, from +foreign parts, the amount of their tonnage being 31,259 tons. + +The increasing importance of Sydney must in some measure be attributed +to the flourishing condition of the colony itself, to the industry of +its farmers, to the successful enterprise of its merchants, and to +particular local causes. It is foreign to my purpose, however, to enter +largely into an investigation of these important points. To do so would +require more space than I can afford for the purpose, and might justly +be considered as irrelevant in a work of this kind. Without attempting +any lengthened detail, it may be considered sufficient if I endeavour +merely to point out the principal causes of the present prosperity +(and, as they may very probably prove) of the eventual progress of our +great southern colony to power and independence. + +STAPLE OF THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES. + +The staple of our Australian colonies, but more particularly of New +South Wales, the climate and the soil of which are peculiarly suited to +its production,--is fine wool. There can be no doubt that the growth of +this article has mainly contributed to the prosperity of the above +mentioned colony and of Van Diemen's Land. + +At the close of the last century, wool was imported into England from +Spain and Germany only, and but a few years previously from Spain +alone. Indeed, long after its introduction from the latter country, +German wool, obtained but little consideration in the London market; +and in like manner, it may be presumed that many years will not have +elapsed before the increased importation of wool from our own +possessions in the southern hemisphere, will render us, in respect to +this commodity, independent of every other part of the world. The great +improvements in modern navigation are such, that the expense of sending +the fleece to market from New South Wales is less than from any part of +Europe. The charges for instance on Spanish and German wool, are from +fourpence to fourpence three farthings per pound; whereas the entire +charge, after shipment from New South Wales, and Van Diemen's Land, +does not exceed threepence three farthings,--and in this the dock and +landing charges, freight, insurance, brokerage, and commission, are +included. + +GROWTH OF FINE WOOL. MR. M'ARTHUR'S EXERTIONS. + +As some particulars respecting the introduction of this source of +national wealth into Australia may prove interesting to the public, I +have put together the following details of it, upon the authenticity of +which they may rely. The person who foresaw the advantage to be derived +from the growth of fine wool in New South Wales, and who commenced the +culture of it in that colony, was Mr. John M'Arthur. So far back, I +believe, as the year 1793, not long after the establishment of the +first settlement at Sydney, this gentleman commenced sheep-farming, and +about two years afterwards he obtained a ram and two ewes from Captain +Kent, of the royal navy, who had brought them, with some other stock +for the supply of the settlement, from the Cape of Good Hope, to which +place a flock of these sheep had been originally sent by the Dutch +government. Sensible of the importance of the acquisition, Mr. M'Arthur +began to cross his coarse-fleeced sheep with Merino blood; and, +proceeding upon a system, he effected a considerable improvement in the +course of a few years. So prolific was the mixed breed, that in ten +years, a flock which originally consisted of not more than seventy +Bengal sheep, had increased in number to 4,000 head, although the +wethers had been killed as they became fit for slaughter. It appears, +however, that as the sheep approached to greater purity of blood, their +extreme fecundity diminished. + +TO REAR MERINO FLOCKS. + +In 1803, Mr. M'Arthur revisited England; and there happening at the +time to be a committee of manufacturers in London from the clothing +districts, he exhibited before them samples of his wool, which were so +much approved, that the committee represented to their constituents the +advantages which would result from the growth of fine wool, in one of +the southern dependencies of the empire. In consequence of this a +memorial was transmitted to His Majesty's government, and Mr. +M'Arthur's plans having been investigated by a Privy Council, at which +he was present, they were recommended to the government as worthy of +its protection. With such encouragement Mr. M'Arthur purchased two ewes +and three rams, from the Merino flock of His Majesty King George the +Third. He embarked with them on his return to New South Wales in 1806, +on board a vessel named by him "the Argo," in reference to the golden +treasure with which she was freighted. On reaching the colony he +removed his sheep to a grant of land which the Home Government had +directed he should receive in the Cow Pastures. To commemorate the +transaction, and to transmit to a grateful posterity the recollection +of the nobleman who then presided over the colonies, the estate, +together with the district in which it is situated, was honoured by the +name of Camden. + +EXPORT OF WOOL TO ENGLAND. + +Since that time the value of New South Wales wool has been constantly +on the increase, and the colony are indebted to Mr. M'Arthur for the +possession of an exportable commodity which has contributed very +materially to its present wealth and importance. Such general attention +is now paid to this interesting branch of rural economy, that the +importation of wool into England from our Australian colonies, +amounted, in 1832, to 10,633 bales, or 2,500,000 lbs. It has been sold +at as high a price as 10s. per lb.; but the average price of wool of +the best flocks vary from 1s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. at the present moment. The +number of sheep in New South Wales alone was calculated in the last +census at 536,891 head. The ordinary profits on this kind of stock may +be extracted from the Table given in the Appendix to the first volume +of this work. + +WHALE FISHERY. + +Among the various speculations undertaken by the merchants of Sydney, +there is not one into which they have entered with so much spirit as in +the South Sea Fishery. The local situation of Port Jackson gives them +an advantage over the English and the American merchants, since the +distance of both these from the field of their gains, must necessarily +impede them greatly; whereas the ships that leave Sydney on a whaling +excursion, arrive without loss of time upon their ground, and return +either for fresh supplies or to repair damages with equal facility. The +spirit with which the colonial youth have engaged in this adventurous +and hardy service, is highly to their credit. The profits arising from +it may not be (indeed I have every reason to think are not) so great as +might be supposed, or such as might reasonably be expected; but the +extensive scale on which it is conducted, speaks equally for the energy +and perseverance of the parties concerned, in the prosecution of their +commercial enterprises. It has enabled them to equip a creditable +colonial marine, and given great importance to their mercantile +interests in the mother country. + +In the year 1831, the quantity of sperm and black oil, the produce of +the fisheries exported from New South Wales, amounted to 2,307 tons, +and was estimated, together with skins and whalebone, to be worth +107,971 pounds sterling. The gross amount of all other exports during +that year, did not exceed 107,697 pounds sterling. Of these exports, +the following were the most considerable: + + Timber 7,410 pounds + Butter and Cheese 2,376 + Mimosa bark 40 + Hides 7,333 + Horses 7,302 + Salt provisions 5,184 + Wool 66,112 + + +The above is exclusive of 61,000 pounds value of British manufactures +re-exported to the various ports and islands in the Southern Seas. + +OTHER EXPORTS. + +In this scale, moreover, tobacco is not mentioned; but that plant is +now raised for the supply of every private establishment, and will +assuredly form an article of export, as soon as its manufacture shall +be well understood. Neither can it be doubted but that the vine and the +olive will, in a short time, be abundantly cultivated; and that a +greater knowledge of the climate and soil of the more northern parts of +the colony, will lead to the introduction of fresh sources of wealth. + +GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES. + +Having taken this hasty review of the commercial interests of the +colony, we may now turn to a brief examination of its internal +structure and principal natural features. + +I have already given a cursory sketch of the geographical features of +the whole continent. Of the vast area which its coasts embrace, the +east part alone has been fully explored. + +A range of hills runs along the eastern coast, from north to south, +which, in different quarters, vary in their distance from the sea; at +one place approaching it pretty nearly, at another, receding from it to +a distance of forty miles. It is a singular fact, that there is no pass +or break in these mountains, by which any of the rivers of the interior +can escape in an easterly direction. Their spine is unbroken. The +consequence is, that there is a complete division of the eastern and +western waters, and that streams, the heads of which are close to each +other, flow away in opposite directions; the one to pursue a short +course to the sea; the other to fall into a level and depressed +interior, the character of which will be noticed in its proper place. + +GREAT PROPORTION OF BAD SOIL. + +The proportion of bad soil to that which is good in New South Wales, is +certainly very great: I mean the proportion of inferior soil to such as +is fit for the higher purposes of agriculture. Mr. Dawson, the late +superintendent of the Australian Agricultural Company's possessions, +has observed, as a singular fact, that the best soil generally prevails +on the summits of the hills, more especially where they are at all +level. He accounts for so unusual a circumstance by the fact, that +elevated positions are less subject to the effects of fire or floods +than their valleys or flanks, and attributes the general want of +vegetable mould over the colony chiefly to the ravages of the former +element, whereby the growth of underwood, so favourable in other +countries to the formation of soil, is wholly prevented. Undoubtedly +this is a principal cause for the deficiency in question. There is no +part of the world in which fires create such havoc as in New South +Wales and indeed in Australia generally. The climate, on the one hand, +which dries up vegetation, and the wandering habits of the natives on +the other, which induce them to clear the country before them by +conflagration, operate equally against the growth of timber and +underwood. + +CAUSE OF THIS. + +But there is another circumstance that appears to have escaped Mr. +Dawson's observation; which is the actual property of the trees +themselves, as to the quantity of vegetable matter they produce in +decay. Being a military man, I cannot be supposed to have devoted much +of my time to agricultural pursuits; but it has been obvious to me, as +it must have been to many others, that in New South Wales, the fall of +leaves and the decay of timber, so far from adding to the richness of +its soil, actually destroy minor vegetation. This fact was brought more +home to me in consequence of its having been my lot to spend some +months upon Norfolk Island, a distant penal settlement attached to the +Government of Sydney. There the abundance of vegetable decay was as +remarkable as the want of it on the Australian Continent. I have +frequently sunk up to my knees in a bed of leaves when walking through +its woods; and, often when I placed my foot on what appeared externally +to be the solid trunk of a tree, I have found it yield to the pressure, +in consequence of its decomposition into absolute rottenness. But such +is not the case in New South Wales. There, no such accumulations of +vegetable matter are to be met with; but where the loftiest tree of the +forest falls to the ground, its figure and length are marked out by the +total want of vegetation within a certain distance of it, and a small +elevation of earth, resembling more the refuse or scoria of burnt +bricks than any thing else, is all that ultimately remains of the +immense body which time or accident had prostrated. Thus it would +appear, that it is not less to the character of its woods than to the +ravages of fire that New South Wales owes its general sterility. + +CONNECTION BETWEEN THE GEOLOGY AND VEGETATION. + +Whilst prosecuting my researches in the interior of the colony, I could +not but be struck with the apparent connection between its geology and +vegetation; so strong, indeed, was this connection, that I had little +difficulty, after a short experience, in judging of the rock that +formed the basis of the country over which I was travelling, from the +kind of tree or herbage that flourished in the soil above it. The +eucalyptus pulv., a species of eucalyptus having a glaucus-coloured +leaf, of dwarfish habits and growing mostly in scrub, betrayed the +sandstone formation, wherever it existed, This was the case in many +parts of the County of Cumberland, in some parts of Wombat Brush, at +the two passes on the great south road, over a great extent of country +to the N.W. of Yass Plains, and at Blackheath on the summit of the Blue +Mountains. On the other hand, those open grassy and park-like tracts, +of which so much has been said, characterise the secondary ranges of +granite and porphyry. The trees most usual on these tracts, were the +box, an unnamed species of eucalyptus, and the grass chiefly of that +kind, called the oat or forest grass, which grows in tufts at +considerable distances from each other, and which generally affords +good pasturage. On the richer grounds the angophora lanceolata, and the +eucalyptus mammifera more frequently point out the quality of the soil +on which they grow. The first are abundant on the alluvial flats of the +Nepean, the Hawkesbury and the Hunter; the latter on the limestone +formation of Wellington Valley and in the better portions of Argyle; +whilst the cupressus calytris seems to occupy sandy ridges with the +casuarina. It was impossible that these broad features should have +escaped observation: it was naturally inferred from this, that the +trees of New South Wales are gregarious; and in fact they may, in a +great measure, be considered so. The strong line that occasionally +separates different species, and the sudden manner in which several +species are lost at one point, to re-appear at another more distant, +without any visible cause for the break that has taken place, will +furnish a number of interesting facts in the botany of New South Wales. + +It was observed both on the Macquarie river and the Morumbidgee, that +the casuarinae ceased at a particular point. On the Macquarie +particularly, these trees which had often excited our admiration from +Wellington Valley downwards, ceased to occupy its banks below the +cataract, nor were they again noticed until we arrived on the banks of +the Castlereagh. The blue-gum trees, again, were never observed to +extend beyond the secondary embankments of the rivers, occupying that +ground alone which was subject to flood and covered with reeds. These +trees waved over the marshes of the Macquarie, but were not observed to +the westward of them for many miles; yet they re-appeared upon the +banks of New-Year's Creek as suddenly as they had disappeared after we +left the marshes, and grew along the line of the Darling to unusual +size. But it is remarkable, that, even in the midst of the marshes, the +blue-gum trees were strictly confined to the immediate flooded spaces +on which the reeds prevailed, or to the very beds of the water-courses. +Where the ground was elevated, or out of the reach of flood, the box +(unnamed) alone occupied it; and, though the branches of these trees +might be interwoven together, the one never left its wet and reedy bed, +the other never descended from its more elevated position. The same +singular distinction marked the acacia pendula, when it ceased to cover +the interior plains of light earth, and was succeeded by another shrub +of the same species. It continued to the banks of New-Year's Creek, a +part of which it thickly lined. To the westward of the creek, another +species of acacia was remarked for the first time. Both shrubs, like +the blue-gum and the box, mixed their branches together, but the creek +formed the line of separation between them. The acacia pendula was not +afterwards seen, but that which had taken its place, as it were, was +found to cover large tracts of country and to form extensive brushes. +Many other peculiarities in the vegetation of the interior are noticed +in the body of this work, but I have thought that these more striking +ones deserved to be particularly remarked upon. + +GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. + +If we strike a line to the N.W. from Sydney to Wellington Valley, we +shall find that little change takes place in the geological features of +the country. The sand-stone of which the first of the barrier ranges is +composed, terminates a little beyond Mount York, and at Cox's River is +succeeded by grey granite. The secondary ranges to the N.W. of +Bathurst, are wholly of that primitive rock; for although there are +partial changes of strata between Bathurst and Moulong Plains, granite +is undoubtedly the rock upon which the whole are based: but at Moulong +Plains, a military station intermediate between Bathurst and Wellington +Valley, limestone appears in the bed of a small clear stream, and with +little interruption continues to some distance below the last-mentioned +place. The accidental discovery of some caves at Moulong Plains, led to +the more critical examination of the whole formation, and cavities of +considerable size were subsequently found in various parts of it, but +more particularly in the neighbourhood of Wellington Valley. The local +interest which has of late years been taken in the prosecution of +geological investigations, led many gentlemen to examine the contents +of these caverns; and among the most forward, Major Mitchell, the +Surveyor-General, must justly be considered, to whose indefatigable +perseverance the scientific world is already so much indebted. + +The caves into which I penetrated, did not present anything particular +to my observation; they differed little from caves of a similar +description into which I had penetrated in Europe. Large masses of +stalactites hung from their roofs, and a corresponding formation +encrusted their floors. They comprised various chambers or +compartments, the most remote of which terminated at a deep chasm that +was full of water. A close examination of these caves has led to the +discovery of some organic remains, bones of various animals embedded in +a light red soil; but I am not aware that the remains of any extinct +species have been found, or that any fossils have been met with in the +limestone itself. There can, however, be little doubt but that the same +causes operated in depositing these mouldering remains in the caves of +Kirkdale and those of Wellington Valley. + +About twenty miles below the junction of the Bell with the Macquarie, +free-stone supersedes the limestone, but as the country falls rapidly +from that point, it soon disappears, and the traveller enters upon a +flat country of successive terraces. A schorl rock, of a blue colour +and fine grain, composed of tourmaline and quartz, forms the bed of the +Macquarie at the Cataract; and, in immediate contact with it, a mass of +mica slate of alternate rose, pink, and white, was observed, which must +have been covered by the waters of the river when Mr. Oxley descended +it. + +From the Cataract of the Macquarie, a flat extends to the marshes in +which that river exhausts itself. From the midst of this flat Mount +Foster and Mount Harris rise, both of which are porphyritic: but as I +have been particular in describing these heights in their proper place, +any minute notice of them here may be considered unnecessary. We will +rather extend our enquiries to those parts of the colony upon which we +shall not be called upon to remark in the succeeding pages. + +Returning to the coast, we may mark the geological changes in a line to +the S.W. of Sydney; and as my object is to extend the information of my +readers, I shall notice any particular district on either side of the +line I propose to touch upon, which may be worthy of notice. It would +appear that the first decided break in the sandstone formation which +penetrates into the county of Camden, is at Mittagong Range. It is +there traversed by a dike of whinstone, of which that range is wholly +composed. The change of soil and of vegetation are equally remarkable +at this place; the one being a rich, greasy, chocolate-coloured earth, +the other partaking greatly of the intertropical character. In +wandering over them, I noticed the wild fig and the cherry-tree, +growing to a much larger size than I had seen them in any other part of +the colony. Upon their branches, the satin bird, the gangan, and +various kinds of pigeons were feeding. Birds unknown to the eastward of +the Blue Mountains, were numerous in the valleys; and there was an +unusual appearance of freshness and moisture in the vegetation. + +These signs of improvement, however, vanish the moment Mittagong range +is crossed, and sand-stone again forms the basis of the country to a +considerable distance beyond Bong-bong. At a small farm called the +Ploughed Ground, it is again traversed by a dike of whinstone, and a +rich but isolated spot is thus passed over. With occasional and partial +interruption, however, the sand-stone formation continues to an abrupt +pass, from which the traveller descends to the county of Argyle. This +pass is extremely abrupt, and is covered with glaucus, the low scrub I +have noticed as common to the sand-stone formation. A small but lively +stream, called Paddy's River, runs at the bottom of this pass, and +immediately to the S.W. of it, an open forest country of granite base +extends for many miles, on which the eucalyptus manifera is prevalent, +and which affords the best grazing tracts in Argyle. At Goulburn +Plains, however, a vein of limestone occurs, which is evidently +connected with that forming the ShoalHaven Gully, which is perhaps the +most remarkable geological feature in the colony of New South Wales. It +is a deep chasm of about a quarter of a mile in breadth, and 1200 feet +in depth. The country on either side is perfectly level, so much so +that the traveller approaches almost to its very brink before he is +aware of his being near so singular an abyss. A small rivulet flows +through the Gully, and discharges itself into the sea at ShoalHaven; +but this river is hardly perceptible, from the summit of the cliffs +forming the sides of the Gully, which are of the boldest and most +precipitous character. The ground on the summit is full of caves of +great depth, but there has been a difficulty in examining them, in +consequence of the violent wind that rushes up them, and extinguishes +every torch. + +The open and grassy forests of Argyle are terminated by another of +those abrupt sand-stone passes I have just described, and the traveller +again falls considerably from his former level, previously to his +entering on Yass Plains, to which this pass is the only inlet. + +From Yass Plains the view to the S. and S.W. is over a lofty and broken +country: mountains with rounded summits, others with towering peaks, +and others again of lengthened form but sharp spine, characterise the +various rocks of which they are composed. The ranges decline rapidly +from east to west, and while on the one hand the country has all the +appearance of increasing height, on the other it sinks to a dead level; +nor on the distant horizon to the N. W. is there a hill or an +inequality to be seen. + +From Yass Plains to the very commencement of the level interior, every +range I crossed presented a new rock-formation; serpentine quartz in +huge white masses, granite, chlorite, micaceous schist, sandstone, +chalcedony, quartz, and red jasper, and conglomerate rocks. + +It was however, out of my power, in so hurried a journey as that which +I performed down the banks of the Morumbidgee River, to examine with +the accuracy I could have wished, either the immediate connection +between these rocks or their gradual change from the one to the other. +I was content to ascertain their actual succession, and to note the +general outlines of the ranges; but the defect of vision under which I +labour, prevents me from laying them before the public. + +CHARACTER OF THE SOIL CONNECTED WITH GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. + +From what has been advanced, however, it will appear that the physical +structure of the southern parts of the colony is as varied, as that of +the western interior is monotonous, and we may now pursue our original +observations on the soil of the colony with greater confidence. + +In endeavouring to account for the poverty of the soil in New South +Wales, and in attributing it in a great degree to the causes already +mentioned, it appears necessary to estimate more specifically the +influence which the geological formation of a country exercises on its +soil, and how much the quality of the latter partakes of the character +of the rock on which it reposes. And although I find it extremely +difficult to explain myself as I should wish to do, in the critical +discussion on which I have thus entered, yet as it is material to the +elucidation of an important subject in the body of the work, I feel it +incumbent on me to proceed to the best of my ability. + +I have said that the soil of a country depends much upon its geological +formation. This appears to be particularly the case in those parts of +the colony with which I am acquainted, or those lying between the +parallels of 30 degrees and 35 degrees south. Sandstone, porphyry, and +granite, succeed each other from the coast to a very considerable +distance into the interior, on a N. W. line. The light ferruginous dust +that is distributed over the county of Cumberland, and which annoys the +traveller by its extreme minuteness, to the eastward of the Blue +Mountains, is as different from the coarse gravelly soil on the +secondary ranges to the westward of them, as the barren scrubs and +thickly-wooded tracts of the former district are to the grassy and open +forests of the latter. + +As soon as I began to descend to the westward it became necessary to +pay strict and earnest attention to the features of the country through +which I passed, in order to determine more accurately the different +appearances which, as I was led to expect, the rivers would assume. In +the course of my examination I found, first, that the broken country +through which I travelled, was generally covered with a loose, coarse, +and sandy soil; and, secondly, that the ranges were wholly deficient in +that peat formation which fills the valleys, or covers the flat summits +of the hills or mountains, in the northern hemisphere. The peculiar +property of this formation is to retain water like a sponge; and to +this property the regular and constant flow of the rivers descending +from such hills, may, in a great measure, be attributed. In New South +Wales on the contrary, the rains that fall upon the mountains drain +rapidly through a coarse and superficial soil, and pour down their +sides without a moment's interruption. The consequence is that on such +occasions the rivers are subject to great and sudden rises, whereas +they have scarcely water enough to support a current in ordinary +seasons. At one time the traveller will find it impracticable to cross +them: at another he may do so with ease; and only from the remains of +debris in the branches of the trees high above, can he judge of the +furious torrent they must occasionally contain. + +This seeming deviation on the part of Nature from her usual laws will +no longer appear such, if we consider its results for a moment. The +very floods which swell the rivers to overflowing, are followed by the +most beneficent effects; and, rude and violent as the means are by +which she accomplishes her purpose, they form, no doubt, a part of that +process by which she preserves the balance of good and evil. Vast +quantities of the best soil have been thus washed down from the +mountains to accumulate in more accessible places. From frequent +depositions, a great extent of country along the banks of every river +and creek has risen high above the influence of the floods, and +constitutes the richest tracts in the colony. The alluvial flats of the +Nepean, the Hawkesbury, and the Hunter, are striking instances of the +truth of these observations; to which the plains of O'Connell and +Bathurst must be added. The only good soil upon the two latter, is in +the immediate neighbourhood of the Macquarie River: but, even close to +its banks, the depositions are of little depth, lying on a coarse +gravelly soil, the decomposition of the nearer ranges. The former is +found to diminish in thickness, according to the concavity of the +valley through which the Macquarie flows, and at length becomes mixed +with the coarser soil. This deposit is alone fit for agricultural +purposes; but it does not necessarily follow that the distant country +is unavailable since it is admitted, that the best grazing tracts are +upon the secondary ranges of granite and porphyry. These ranges +generally have the appearance of open forest, and are covered with +several kinds of grasses, among which the long oat-grass is the most +abundant. + +COUNTY OF CUMBERLAND. + +If we except the valley of the Nepean, the banks of the South Creek, +the Pennant Hills near Parramatta, and a few other places, the general +soil of the county of Cumberland, is of the poorest description. It is +superficial in most places, resting either upon a cold clay, or upon +sandstone; and is, as I have already remarked, a ferruginous compound +of the finest dust. Yet there are many places upon its surface, +(hollows for instance,) in which vegetable decay has accumulated, or +valleys, into which it has been washed, that are well adapted for the +usual purposes of agriculture, and would, if the country was more +generally cleared, be found to exist to a much greater extent than is +at present imagined. I have frequently observed the isolated patches of +better land, when wandering through the woods, both on the Parramatta +River, and at a greater distance from the coast. And I cannot but +think, that it would be highly advantageous to those who possess large +properties in the County of Cumberland to let Portions of them. The +concentration of people round their capital, promotes more than +anything else the prosperity of a colony, by creating a reciprocal +demand for the produce both of the country and the town, since the one +would necessarily stimulate the energy of the farmer, as the other +would rouse the enterprise of the merchant. The consideration, however, +of such a subject is foreign to my present purpose. + +It must not be supposed, that because I have given a somewhat +particular description of the County of Cumberland, I have done so with +a view to bring it forward as a specimen of the other counties, or to +found upon it a general description of the colony. It is, in fact, +poorer in every respect than any tract of land of similar extent in the +interior, and is still covered with dense forests of heavy timber, +excepting when the trees have been felled by dint of manual labour, and +the ground cleared at an expense that nothing but its proximity to the +seat of government could have justified. But experience has proved, +that neither the labour nor the the expense have been thrown away. Many +valuable farms and extensive gardens chequer the face of the country, +from which the proprietors derive a very efficient income. + +COUNTRY WEST OF BLUE MOUNTAINS. + +To the westward of the Blue Mountains, the country differs in many +respects from that lying between those ranges and the coast; and +although, its aspect varies in different places, three principal +features appear more immediately to characterise it. These are, first, +plains of considerable extent wholly destitute of timber; secondly, +open undulating woodlands; and, thirdly, barren unprofitable tracts. +The first almost invariably occur in the immediate neighbourhood of +some river, as the Plains of Bathurst, which are divided by the +Macquarie; Goulburn Plains, through which the Wallandilly flows; and +Yass Plains, which are watered by a river of the same name. The open +forests, through which the horseman may gallop in perfect safety, seem +to prevail over the whole secondary ranges of granite, and are +generally considered as excellent grazing tracts. Such is the country +in Argyleshire on either side of the Lachlan, where that river crosses +the great southern road near Mr. Hume's station; such also are many +parts of Goulburn and the whole extent of country lying between +Underaliga and the Morumbidgee River. The barren tracts, on the other +hand, may be said to occupy the central spaces between all the +principal streams. With regard to the proportion that these different +kinds of country bear to each other, there can be no doubt of the undue +preponderance of the last over the first two; but there are +nevertheless many extensive available tracts in every part of the +colony. + +MEANS OF INLAND TRANSPORT. + +The greatest disadvantage under which New South Wales labours, is the +want of means for conveying inland produce to the market, or to the +coast. The Blue Mountains are in this respect a serious bar to the +internal prosperity of the colony. By this time, however, a magnificent +road will have been completed across them to the westward, over parts +of which I travelled in 1831. Indeed the efforts of the colonial +government have been wisely directed, not only to the construction of +this road, which the late Governor, General Darling commenced, but also +in facilitating the communication to the southern districts, by an +almost equally fine road over the Razor Back Range, near the Cow +Pastures; so that as far as it is possible for human efforts to +overcome natural obstacles, the wisdom and foresight of the executive +have ere this been successful. + +DISADVANTAGES OF DISTANT SETTLERS. + +The majority of the settlers in the Bathurst country, and in the more +remote interior, are woolgrowers; and as they send their produce to the +market only once a year, receiving supplies for home consumption, on +the return of their drays or carts from thence, the inconvenience of +bad roads is not so much felt by them. But to an agriculturist a +residence to the westward of the Blue Mountains is decidedly +objectionable, unless he possess the means with which to procure the +more immediate necessaries of life, otherwise than by the sale of his +grain or other produce, and can be satisfied to cultivate his property +for home consumption, or for the casual wants of his neighbours. Under +such circumstances, a man with a small private income would enjoy every +rational comfort. But of course, not only in consequence of the loss of +labour, but the chance of accidents during a long journey, the more the +distance is increased from Sydney, as the only place at which the +absolute necessaries of life can be purchased, the greater becomes the +objection to a residence in such a part of the country; and on this +account it is, that although some beautiful locations both as to extent +and richness, are to be found to the westward of Bathurst, equally on +the Bell, the Macquarie and the Lachlan, it is not probable they will +be taken up for many years, or will only be occupied as distant stock +stations. + +CHARACTER OF EASTERN COAST. + +Since, therefore, it appears from what has been advanced, that it is +not to the westward the views of any settlers should be directed, +excepting under particular circumstances, it remains for us to consider +what other parts of the colony hold out, or appear to hold out, greater +advantages. The eye naturally turns to the south on the one hand, and +to Port Macquarie northerly on the other. It is to be remarked that the +eastern shores of Australia partake of the same barren character that +marks the other three. It is generally bounded to a certain extent by a +sandy and sterile tract. There are, however, breaks in so prolonged a +line, as might have been expected, where, from particular local causes, +both the soil and vegetation are of a superior kind. At Illawarra for +instance, the contiguity of the mountains to the coast leaves no room +for the sandy belt we have noticed, but the debris from them reaches to +the very shore. Whether from reflected heat, or from some other +peculiarity of situation, the vegetation of Illawarra is of an +intertropical character, and birds that are strangers to the county of +Cumberland frequent its thickets. There is no part of Australia where +the feathered race are more beautiful, or more diversified. The most +splendid pigeon, perhaps, that the world produces, and the satin bird, +with its lovely eye, feed there upon the berries of the ficus (wild +fig,) and other trees: and a numerous tribe of the accipitrine class +soar over its dense and spacious forests. + +PORT MACQUARIE AND FIVE ISLANDS. + +We again see a break in the sandy line of the coast at Broken Bay, at +Newcastle, and still further north at Port Macquarie; at which places +the Hawkesbury, the Hunter, and the Hastings severally debouche. Of +Port Macquarie, as a place of settlement, I entertain a very high +opinion, in consequence of its being situated under a most favourable +parallel latitude. I am convinced it holds out many substantial +advantages. One of the most important of these is the circumstance of +its having been much improved when occupied as a penal settlement. And +since the shores of the colony are how navigated by steam-boats, the +facility of water communication would be proportionably great. + +I believe the Five Islands or Illawarr district is considered +peculiarly eligible for small settlers. The great drawback to this +place is the heavy character of its timber and the closeness of its +thickets, which vie almost with the American woods in those respects. +The return, however, is adequate to the labour required in clearing the +ground. Between the Five Islands and Sydney, a constant intercourse is +kept up by numerous small craft; and a communication with the interior, +by branch roads from the great southern line to the coast, would +necessarily be thrown open, if the more distant parts of it were +sufficiently peopled. + +RICH TRACTS IN THE INTERIOR. + +Recent surveys have discovered to us rich and extensive tracts in the +remote interior between Jervis Bay and Bateman's Bay, and southwards +upon the western slope of the dividing range. The account given by +Messrs. Hovel and Hume is sufficient to prove that every valley they +crossed was worthy of notice, and that the several rivers they forded +were flanked by rich and extensive flats. + +The distance of Moneroo Plains, and of the Doomot and Morumbidgee +Rivers from Sydney, alarms the settler, who knows not the value of +those localities; but men whose experience has taught them to set this +obstacle at nought, have long depastured their herds on the banks of +the last two. The fattest cattle that supply the Sydney market are fed +upon the rich flats, and in the grassy valleys of the Morumbidgee; and +there are several beautiful farms upon those of the Doomot. Generally +speaking, the persons who reside in those distant parts, pay little +attention to the comfort of their dwellings, or to the raising of more +grain than their establishments may require; but there can be no doubt +this part of the interior ought to be the granary of New South Wales; +its climate and greater humidity being more favourable than that of +Sydney for the production of wheat. + +PERIODICAL DROUGHTS; THE SEASONS AFFECTED BY THE MARSHES. + +The most serious disadvantages under which the colony of New South +Wales labours, is in the drought to which it is periodically subject. +Its climate may be said to be too dry; in other respects it is one of +the most delightful under heaven; and experience of the certainty of +the recurrence of the trying seasons to which I allude, should teach +men to provide against their effects. Those seasons, during which no +rain falls, appear, from the observations of former writers, to occur +every ten or twelve years; and it is somewhat singular that no cause +has been assigned for such periodical visitations. Whether the state of +the interior has anything to do with them, and whether the wet or dry +condition of the marshes at all regulate the seasons, is a question +upon which I will not venture to give my decisive opinion. But most +assuredly, when the interior is dry, the seasons are dry, and VICE +VERSA. Indeed, not only is this the case, but rains, from excessive +duration in the first year after a drought, decrease gradually year +after year, until they wholly cease for a time. It seems not +improbable, therefore, that the state of the interior does, in some +measure, regulate the fall of rain upon the eastern ranges, which +appears to decrease in quantity yearly as the marshes become exhausted, +and cease altogether, when they no longer contain any water. A drought +will naturally follow until such time as the air becomes surcharged +with clouds or vapour from the ocean, which being no longer able to +sustain their own weight, descend upon the mountains, and being +conveyed by hundreds of streams into the western lowlands, again fill +the marshes, and cause the recurrence of regular seasons. + +TEMPERATURE OF THE CLIMATE. + +The thermometer ranges during the summer months, that is, from +September to March, from 36 degrees to 106 degrees of Fahrenheit, but +the mean of the temperature during the above period is 70 degrees. The +instrument in the winter months ranges from 27 degrees to 98 degrees, +with a mean of 66 degrees. However great the summer heat may appear, it +is certain that the climate of New South Wales has not the relaxing and +enfeebling effect upon the constitution, which renders a residence in +India or other parts of the south so intolerable. Neither are any of +the ordinary occupations of business or of pleasure laid aside at noon, +or during the hottest part of the day. The traveller may cast himself +at length under the first tree that invites him, and repose there as +safely as if he were in a palace. Fearless of damps, and unmolested by +noxious insects, his sleep is as sound as it is refreshing, and he +rises with renewed spirits to pursue his journey. Equally so may the +ploughman or the labourer seek repose beside his team, and allow them +to graze quietly around him. The delicious coolness of the morning and +the mild temperature of the evening air, in that luxurious climate, are +beyond the power of description. It appears to have an influence on the +very animals, the horses and the cattle being particularly docile; and +I cannot but think it is is some degree the same happy effect upon some +of the hardened human beings who are sent thither from the old world. + +FRUITS. + +As I have before observed, it has not yet been discovered whether there +are any indigenous fruits of any value in Australia. In the colony of +New South Wales there certainly are none; yet the climate is peculiarly +adapted for the growth of every European and of many tropical +productions. The orange, the fig, the citron, the pomegranate, the +peach, the apple, the guava, the nectarine, the pear, and the loquette, +grow side by side together. The plantain throws its broad leaves over +the water, the vine encircles the cottages, and the market of Sydney is +abundantly supplied with every culinary vegetable. + +In a climate, therefore, so soft that man scarcely requires a dwelling, +and so enchanting that few have left it but with regret, the spirits +must necessarily be acted upon,--and the heart feel lighter. Such, +indeed, I have myself found to be the case; nor have I ever been +happier than when roving through the woods or wandering along one of +the silent and beautiful bays for which the harbour of Port Jackson is +so celebrated. I went to New South Wales as I have already remarked, +highly prejudiced against it, both from the nature of the service, and +the character of the great body of its inhabitants. My regiment has +since quitted its shores, but I am aware there are few of them who +would not gladly return. The feeling I have in its favour arises not, +therefore, from the services in which I was employed, but from +circumstances in the colony itself; and I yet hope to form one of its +community and to join a number of valuable and warm-hearted friends +whom I left in that distant part of the world. + +REMARKS ON EMIGRATION. + +On the subject of emigration, it is not my intention to dwell at any +length. My object in these preliminary remarks has been to give the +reader a general idea of the country, in the interior recesses of which +I am about to lead him. Still, however, it may be useful to offer a few +general observations on a topic which has, of late years, become so +interesting to the British public. + +The main consideration with those who, possessing some capital, propose +to emigrate as the means of improving their condition, is, the society +likely to be found in the land fixed on for their future residence. One +of the first questions I have been asked, when conversing on the +subject of emigration, has consequently related to this important +matter. I had only then to observe in reply, that the civil and +military establishments in New South Wales, form the elements of as +good society as it is the lot of the majority to command in Great +Britain. + +The houses of the settlers are not scattered over a greater surface +than the residences of country gentlemen here, and if they cannot vie +with them in size, they most assuredly do in many other more important +respects; and if a substantial cottage of brick or stone has any claim +to the rank of a tenantable mansion, there are few of them which do not +posses all the means of exercising that hospitality for which young +communities are remarkable. + +But to sever the links of kindred, and to abandon the homes of our +fathers after years of happy tranquillity, is a sacrifice the magnitude +of which is unquestionable. The feelings by which men are influenced +under such circumstances have a claim to our respect. Indeed, no class +of persons can have a stronger hold upon our sympathies than those whom +unmerited adverse fortune obliges to seek a home in a distant country. + +Far, therefore, be it from me to dispute a single expression of regret +to which they may give utterance. It must, however, he remembered that +the deepest feelings of anguish are providentially alleviated in time. +Our heaviest misfortunes are frequently repaired by industry and +caution. The sky clears up, as it were: new interests engage the +attention, and the cares of a family or the improvement of a newly +acquired property engross those moments which would otherwise be spent +in vain and unprofitable regrets. + +DESCRIPTION OF IMMIGRANTS; MOST LIKELY TO PROSPER. + +It cannot be doubted that persons such as I have described, whose +conduct has hitherto been regulated by prudence, and whose main object +is to provide for their children, are the most valuable members of +every community, whether young or old. To such men few countries hold +out greater prospects of success than New South Wales; for the more we +extend our enquiries, the more we shall find that the success of the +emigrant in that colony depends upon his prudence and foresight rather +than on any collateral circumstance of climate or soil; and to him who +can be satisfied with the gradual acquirement of competency, it is the +land of promise. Blessed with a climate of unparalleled serenity, and +of unusual freedom from disease, the settler has little external cause +of anxiety, little apprehension of sickness among his family or +domestics, and little else to do than to attend to his own immediate +interests. I should wish to illustrate the observations by two or three +instances of their practical bearing and tendency. + +CASES OF EMIGRANTS; CAUSES OF SUCCESS OR FAILURE. + +It was on my return from my second expedition, that I visited Lieut. +****** who resides in the southern parts of the colony. The day after +my arrival, he took me round his property, and explained the various +improvements he had made, considering the small means with which he had +commenced. At this part of our conversation, we came within view of his +house, a substantial weather-board cottage. "I trust," said I, turning +to him, "you will excuse the question I am about to ask; for your +frankness emboldens me to propose it, and on your answer much of the +effect of what you have been saying will depend. In effecting these +various improvements, and in the building of that house, have you been +obliged to embarrass yourself, or are they free from +incumbrance?"--"Your question," he said, "is a reasonable one, and I +will answer it with the frankness you are kind enough to ascribe to me. +I have ever made it a rule not to exceed my income. Mrs. ****** bore +our first trials with so much cheerfulness, and contributed so much to +my happiness and my prosperity, that I felt myself bound to build her a +good house with the first money I had to spare." I confess this answer +raised my host in my estimation, and it was a gratifying proof to me of +the success that attends industry and perseverance. + +But let us look at another case. Mr. *** had a property to the N.W. of +Sydney, and having considerable funded means when he arrived in the +colony, he soon put his property into a state of progressive +improvement, and being in truth an excellent practical farmer, it +assumed the appearance of regularity and order. Had Mr. *** stopped at +this moment, he would have been in the enjoyment of affluence and of +every rational comfort. But instead of exercising prudent rules of +hospitality, he gave way to the natural generosity of his disposition, +entered into expenses he could not afford, and was ultimately obliged +to part with his estate. Now it is deeply to be regretted, that one +whose energies and abilities particularly fitted him for the life he +had chosen, should have failed through such conduct; and it is more +than probable, that if he had commenced with smaller means, and had +gradually improved his property, his fate would have been very +different. + +I shall leave these cases without any further comment, convinced as I +am, that each of them furnishes matter for serious consideration, and +that they are practical illustrations of the causes of success or +failure of those who emigrate to the colony of New South Wales. And +although I do not mean to affirm, that the majority follow Mr. ***'s +example, I must venture to assert that thoughtlessness--useless +expenditure in the first instance--waste of time and other +circumstances, lead to equally ruinous consequences. + +MORAL OBJECTIONS TO THE COLONY. + +One of the greatest objections which families have to New South Wales, +is their apprehension of the moral effects that are likely to overwhelm +them by bad example, and for which no success in life could compensate. +In a colony constituted like that of New South Wales, the proportion of +crime must of course be great. Yet it falls less under the notice of +private families than one might at first sight have been led to +suppose. Drunkenness, as in the mother country, is the besetting sin; +but it is confined chiefly to the large towns in consequence of the +difficulty of procuring spirits in the country. There are, no doubt, +many incorrigible characters sent to settle in the interior, and it is +an evil to have these men, even for a single day, to break the harmony +of a previously well regulated establishment, or to injure its future +prospects by the influence of evil example. They are men who are sent +upon trial, from on board a newly arrived ship, and they generally +terminate their misconduct either on the roads or at a penal +settlement, being thus happily removed from the mass of the prisoners. +Frequently, however, men remain for years under the same master. They +become attached to their occupations, their hearts become softened by +kindness, and they atone as much as they possibly can for previous +error. + +SYSTEM OF IMMIGRATION RECOMMENDED; ENCOURAGEMENT FOR EMIGRATION. + +Still there can be no doubt, but that the evil complained of is +considerable. It is from this reason, and from my personal knowledge of +the southern parts of the colony, that I should rejoice to see its +flats and its valleys filled with an industrious population of a better +description of farmers. A hope might then be reasonably indulged, that +the Home Government would not be backward in recognising, and in acting +upon a principle, the soundness of which has been felt and acknowledged +in all ages, but the chief difficulty of which rests in its judicious +application. I allude to a system of emigration. Sure I am that if it +were well organized, and care were taken to profit by the experience of +the past in similar attempts, it could not fail to be attended with +ultimate success. The evils resulting from a surplus population in an +old community, were never more seriously felt than in Great Britain at +the present moment. Assuming that the amount of surplus population is +2,000,000, the excess of labour and competition thus occasioned by +diminishing profits and wages, creates, it has been said, an indirect +tax to the enormous extent of 20,000,000 pounds per annum. It has +appeared to many experienced persons, that it is in emigration, we +should best find the means of relief from this heavy pressure; +particularly if the individuals encouraged to go out to the colonies +were young persons of both sexes, from the industrious classes of the +community. Even if no more than three couples were induced to emigrate +from each parish in England in ten years, the relief to the springs of +industry would be very great. Besides, the funds necessary for this +purpose would revert to the country by a thousand indirect channels. +Persons unacquainted with our Australian colonies, whether Van Dieman's +Land or New South Wales, can form little idea of the increasing demand +for, and consumption in them of every species of British manufacture. +The liberal encouragement given by government to every practicable +scheme of emigration, and the sum advanced by it towards the expenses +of the voyage to the labouring classes, sufficiently indicate the light +in which the subject is viewed by the legislature; and the fact that no +private family taking out servants to Sydney, has in any one instance +been able to retain them, on account of offers more advantageous from +other quarters, shows clearly the great demand for labour in the +colony. If I might judge of the feelings of the majority of respectable +individuals there, from the assurances of the few, they would willingly +defray any parochial expenses attendant on the voyage, provided the +services of such individuals could be secured to them for a time +sufficiently long to remunerate them for such pavement. The tide of +emigration should be directed to Sydney, Van Dieman's Land, or Western +Australia, upon condition of the labourer's receiving a certain sum in +wages, and his daily subsistence from his employer, with an +understanding, however, that he must consider himself bound for two +years to such employer. Surely there are hundreds of our indigent +countrymen, who would gladly seek a land of such plenty, and cast away +the natural, but unavailing regret of leaving home to secure to +themselves and their families, the substantial comforts of life on such +easy conditions. + +COMMITTEE FOUND AT SYDNEY. + +It is not, perhaps, generally known that a committee has been formed in +Sydney, to advise settlers as to the best mode of proceeding on arrival +there. Such a plan is one of obvious utility; and if those who may find +themselves at a loss for information would apply to this committee for +advice, rather than to individuals with whom they may become casually +acquainted, they would further their own interests, and in all +probability ensure success. Still there are some broad rules upon which +every man ought to act, which I shall endeavour to point out, and it +will give me no ordinary satisfaction, if I should be the means of +directing any one to the road of prosperity and comfort. + +HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. + +It is to be feared that those who emigrate to New South Wales, +generally anticipate too great facility in their future operations and +certainty of success in conducting them; but they should recollect that +competency cannot be obtained without labour. Every trade--every +profession in this respect, is subject to the same law--the lawyer, the +physician, the tradesman, and the mechanic. This labour is required at +our hands, even in an old community; how much more then is it called +for in a new, where the ingenuity of men is put to trial to secure +those means of accomplishing their ends which here are abundant. Now, +it appears to me but consistent, that he who is obliged to leave his +native country from want of means to hold his station there, can hardly +expect to find, or rather to secure, abundance elsewhere without some +exertion. Every man who emigrates should proceed with a conviction on +his mind, that he is about to encounter years of labour and privation. +He will not then be disappointed at partial reverses, and will be more +thankful for unexpected prosperity. I feel persuaded the tone of mind +has a great deal to do with success, because it influences the conduct +of the individual. Supposing, however, that an emigrant has taken this +rational view of his situation, he should determine on his pursuits, +and allow nothing but absolute certainty of better fortune to turn him +aside. Men, however, landing at Sydney, in their eagerness for +information get bewildered, give up their original plans, adopt new and +uncertain speculations, trifle away both their time and their money, +and ultimately ruin themselves. An individual who goes to New South +Wales for the purpose of settling, should not remain in Sydney a day +longer than is necessary for the arrangement of his affairs. Every +shilling spent there is thrown away. The greatest facility is given by +the different departments of the Colonial Government to the settlers; +and it is entirely his own fault if he trifles away his time in search +of information elsewhere than at the fountainhead, or if he trusts to +any other opinion than his own, supposing him experienced as to the +quality of the land he may fix upon. Let him be speedy in his +selection, and fix himself upon his allotment as soon as possible. +Instead of overstocking his farm, or employing more labourers than he +can afford to keep, let him be satisfied with a gradual increase of his +stock, and wait patiently till he can better afford to employ labour; +above all, let him avoid embarrassing himself by the purchase of any +superfluous or unnecessary comfort. I consider that man has already +failed, who runs into debt in the first instance, or who exhausts his +means in the purchase of large herds, from the vain expectation that +their increase will clear him. The time was when those idle +speculations were occasionally attended with success, but such is not +now the case. The energies of the agriculturist are directed to their +proper channel, and if the few are unable to make rapid fortunes, the +many have escaped inevitable ruin. No farm in a state of nature can be +expected to yield any return of consequence for the first year. It is +incumbent on a settler to provide for his establishment, or to retain +the means of providing for it as circumstances may require. + +Farming implements are as cheap in Sydney as in England. Horses and +cattle are cheaper. It requires little, therefore, to stock a farm in a +reasonable manner. On the other hand, the climate is so mild that the +want of a house is scarcely felt, and a temporary residence easily +constructed. On the whole I am convinced, that a man who regulates his +conduct by prudence, and who perseveringly follows up his occupations, +who behaves with kindness to those around him, and performs his social +and moral duties with punctuality, will ultimately secure to himself a +home that will make up for the one he has quitted in the land of his +fathers, and place him in as respectable and as happy a situation as +that which he there enjoyed. + + +***** + + +PROGRESS OF INLAND DISCOVERY. + +Having thrown out the foregoing remarks for the information of the +general reader, and of persons who look to Australia with the more +earnest views of selecting a colonial home, I now return to the +immediate object of these volumes; but before entering on the narrative +of my own expeditions, I think it necessary to advert cursorily to the +discoveries previously accomplished. + +The journeys of Mr. Oxley, far into the western interior of Australia, +gave rise to various and conflicting opinions as to the character of +the more central parts of that extensive continent, of which the colony +of New South Wales forms but a small portion. I feel, therefore, called +upon briefly to advert to the conclusions which that able and +intelligent officer drew from his personal observation of the country +into which he penetrated, as an acquaintance with his opinions will not +only tend to throw a clearer light on the following details, but will, +also, convey much necessary information to those of my readers who may +not have perused his journals. It is necessary, however, in order to +divest the subject of all obscureness, to trace, in the first instance, +the progress of inland discovery, in New South Wales, from the first +foundation of the colony to the period when Mr. Oxley's exertions +attracted the public attention. + +In the year 1788, the British Government took formal possession of the +eastern coast of Australia, by the establishment of a penal colony at +Port Jackson. The first settlers, under Governor Phillips, had too many +difficulties to contend with to submit themselves to be thwarted from +pursuits essential to their immediate safety and comfort, by the +prospect of remote and uncertain advantages. It was by perseverance and +toil alone that they first established and ultimately spread themselves +over that part of the territory, which, flanked by the ocean on the one +hand, and embraced as it were by the Nepean River on the other, is now +entitled the County Of Cumberland. For many years, this single district +supplied the wants of the settlers. Upon it they found ample pasture +for their herds, and sufficient employment for themselves. Nor was it +until a succession of untoward seasons, and the rapid increase of their +stock pointed out to them the necessity of seeking for more extensive +pasturage, that they contemplated surmounting that dark and rugged +chain of mountains, which, like the natural ramparts of Spain and +Italy, rose high over the nether forest, and broke the line of the +western horizon. + +MR. CALEY'S ATTEMPT. + +A Mr. Caley is said to have been the first who attempted to scale the +Blue Mountains: but he did not long persevere in struggling with +difficulties too great for ordinary resolution to overcome. It appears +that he retraced his steps, after having penetrated about sixteen miles +into their dark and precipitous recesses; and a heap of stones, which +the traveller passes about that distance from Erne Ford, on the road to +Bathurst, marks the extreme point reached by the first expedition to +the westward of the Nepean river. + +LIEUT. LAWSON'S EXPEDITION. + +Shortly after the failure of this expedition, the sad effects of a long +protracted drought called forth a more general spirit of enterprise and +exertion among the settlers; and Mr. Oxley makes honorable mention of +the perseverance and resolution with which Lieut. Lawson, of the 104th +regiment, accompanied by Messrs. Blaxland and Wentworth, conducted an +expedition into the Blue Mountains. Their efforts were successful: and +the objects of their enterprise would have been completely attained, +but for the failure of their provisions at a moment when their view of +the distant interior was such as to convince them that they had +overcome the most formidable obstacles to their advance, and that in +their further progress few impediments would have presented themselves. + +MR. EVANS' DISCOVERIES. + +The success of this undertaking induced Governor Macquarie to further +the prosecution of inland discovery, and of attempts to ascertain the +nature of the country of which Mr. Lawson only obtained a glimpse. An +expedition was accordingly dispatched under Mr. Evans, the Deputy +Surveyor-General, to follow the route taken by the former one, and to +penetrate as far as practicable into the western interior. The result +was the discovery of the Macquarie river, and of Bathurst Plains. The +report of Mr. Evans was so favourable, that orders were immediately +issued for the construction of a line of road across the mountains. +When that was completed, the Governor went in person to fix the site of +a future town on Bathurst Plains. From thence Mr. Evans, who +accompanied the Governor on the occasion, was directed to proceed to +the southward and westward, to ascertain the nature of the country in +that direction. He discovered another considerable river, flowing, like +the Macquarie, to the west, to which he gave the name of the Lachlan. +The promising appearance of these two streams, and the expectation of +all parties that they would be found to water rich and extensive tracts +of country, led to the fitting out of a more important expedition than +any which had before been contemplated. + +MR. OXLEY'S DISCOVERIES. + +Mr. Oxley, the Surveyor-General of the Colony, was appointed chief of +this expedition, and was directed to trace the Lachlan and Macquarie +rivers, as far as practicable, with a view to ascertain their +capabilities and the nature of the country they watered. In 1817, Mr. +Oxley directed his attention to the former river, and continued to +follow its windings, until it appeared that its waters were lost in +successive marshes and it ceased to be a river. In the following year +he turned towards the Macquarie, and traced it, in like manner, until +he was checked by high reeds that covered an extensive plain before +him, amidst which the channel of the river was lost. + +From what he observed of the country, on both these occasions, he was +led to infer that beyond the limits of his advance the interior had a +uniform level, and was, for the most part, uninhabitable and under +water. Its features must have been strongly marked to have confirmed +such an opinion in the mind of the late Surveyor-General. It stands +recorded on the pages of his journal, that he travelled over a country +of many miles in extent, after clearing the mountains, which so far +from presenting any rise of ground to the eye, bore unequivocal marks +of frequent and extensive inundation. He traced two rivers of +considerable size, and found that, at a great distance from each other, +they apparently terminated in marshes, and that the country beyond them +was low and unbroken. In his progress eastward, he crossed a third +stream (the Castlereagh), about forty-five miles from the Macquarie, +seemingly not inferior to it in size, originating in the mountains for +which he was making, and flowing nearly parallel to the other rivers +into a level country like that which he had just quitted. + +DISCOVERIES OF MESSRS. MECHAN, HUME, HOVEL AND CUNNINGHAM. + +Mr. Evans, moreover, who accompanied Mr. Oxley on these journeys, and +who had been detached by his principal from Mount Harris, to ascertain +the nature of the country in the line which the expedition was next to +pursue, having crossed the Castlereagh considerably below the place at +which the party afterwards effected a passage, reported that the river +was then running through high reeds. The inference naturally drawn by +Mr. Oxley, was, that it terminated as the Lachlan and the Macquarie had +done; and that their united waters formed an inland sea or basin. It is +evident that Mr. Oxley had this impression on his mind, when he turned +towards the coast; but the wet state of the lowlands prevented him from +ascertaining its correctness or error. Doubt, consequently, still +existed as to the nature of the country he had left behind him; a +question in which the best interests of the colony were apparently +involved. Subsequently to these discoveries, Mr. Surveyor Mechan, +accompanied by Mr. Hamilton Hume, a colonist of considerable +experience, explored the country more to the southward and westward of +Sydney, and discovered most of the new country called Argyle, and also +Lake Bathurst. + +Mr. Hume was afterwards associated with a Mr. Hovel, in an excursion to +the south coast, under the auspices of Sir Thomas Brisbane. After a +most persevering and laborious journey, they reached the sea; but it is +uncertain whether they made Port Philips, or Western Port. Mr. Hume, +whose practical experience will yield to that of no man, entertains a +conviction that it was to the former they descended from the +neighbouring ranges; but Mr. Hovel, I believe supports a contrary +opinion. In the early stage of their journey, they passed over York or +Yass Plains; and, after crossing the Morumbidgee, were generally +entangled among mountain ranges that increased in height to the east +and south-east. They crossed three considerable rivers, falling +westerly, which they named the Goulburn, the Hume, and the Ovens; and +found a beautiful and well-watered country in the vicinity of the coast. + +In 1826, Mr. Allan Cunningham, Botanical Collector to his late Majesty, +traversed a considerable portion of the interior to the north of +Bathurst, and, with a laudable zeal, devoted his labours to the +acquisition of general information, as well as to his more immediate +professional pursuits. In 1827, this gentleman again bent his steps +towards the northward, and succeeded in gaining the 28th parallel of +latitude; and, on a subsequent occasion, having taken his departure +from Moreton Bay, he connected his former journey with that settlement, +and thus contributed largely to our knowledge of the mountain country +between it and the capital. Mr. Cunningham, who, independently of his +individual excursions, had not only circumnavigated the Australian +Continent with Capt. King, but had formed also one of the party with +Mr. Oxley, in the journeys before noticed, had adopted this gentleman's +opinion with regard to the swampy and inhospitable character of the +distant interior. Its depressed appearance from the high ground on +which Mr. Cunningham subsequently moved, tended to confirm this +opinion, which was moreover daily gaining strength from the reports of +the natives, who became more frequent in their intercourse with the +whites, and who reported that there were large waters to the westward, +on which the natives had canoes, and in which there were fish of great +size. + +It became, therefore, a current opinion, that the western interior of +New Holland comprehended an extensive basin, of which the ocean of +reeds which had proved so formidable to Mr. Oxley, formed most probably +the outskirts; and it was generally thought that an expedition +proceeding into the interior, would encounter marshes of vast extent, +which would be extremely difficult to turn, and no less dangerous to +enter. + +It remained to be proved, however, whether these conjectures were +founded in fact. The chief difficulty lay in the character of the +country, and in providing the necessary means to ensure success. Those +which were resorted to will be found in the succeeding chapter. Whether +they would have been found sufficient and applicable had the interior +been wholly under water, is doubtful; and my impression on this point +induced me to make more efficient arrangements on the second expedition. + + + + + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE BANKS OF THE MACQUARIE RIVER in 1828 and 1829. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +State of the Colony in 1828-29--Objects of the Expedition--Departure +from Sydney--Wellington Valley--Progress down the Macquarie--Arrival at +Mount Harris--Stopped by the marshes--Encamp amidst reeds--Excursions +down the river--Its termination--Appearance of the marshes--Opthalmic +affection of the men--Mr. Hume's successful journey to the +northward--Journey across the plain--Second great +marsh--Perplexities--Situation of the exploring party--Consequent +resolutions. + + +The year 1826 was remarkable for the commencement of one of those +fearful droughts to which we have reason to believe the climate of New +South Wales is periodically subject. It continued during the two +following years with unabated severity. The surface of the earth became +so parched up that minor vegetation ceased upon it. Culinary herbs were +raised with difficulty, and crops failed even in the most favourable +situations. Settlers drove their flocks and herds to distant tracts for +pasture and water, neither remaining for them in the located districts. +The interior suffered equally with the coast, and men, at length, began +to despond under so alarming a visitation. It almost appeared as if the +Australian sky were never again to be traversed by a cloud. + +OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +But, however severe for the colony the seasons had proved, or were +likely to prove, it was borne in mind at this critical moment, that the +wet and swampy state of the interior had alone prevented Mr. Oxley from +penetrating further into it, in 1818. Each successive report from +Wellington Valley, the most distant settlement to the N. W., confirmed +the news of the unusually dry state of the lowlands, and of the +exhausted appearance of the streams falling into them. It was, +consequently, hoped that an expedition, pursuing the line of the +Macquarie, would have a greater chance of success than the late +Surveyor General had; and that the difficulties he had to contend +against would be found to be greatly diminished, if not altogether +removed. The immediate fitting out of an expedition was therefore +decided upon, for the express purpose of ascertaining the nature and +extent of that basin into which the Macquarie was supposed to fall, and +whether any connection existed between it and the streams falling +westerly. As I had early taken a great interest in the geography of New +South Wales, the Governor was pleased to appoint me to the command of +this expedition. + +JOURNEY FROM SYDNEY TO EMU PLAINS. + +In the month of September, 1828, I received his Excellency's commands +to prepare for my journey; and by the commencement of November, had +organised my party, and completed the necessary arrangements. On the +9th of that month, I waited on the Governor, at Parramatta, to receive +his definitive instructions. As the establishments at Sydney had been +unable to supply me with the necessary number of horses and oxen, +instructions had been forwarded to Mr. Maxwell, the superintendent of +Wellington Valley, to train a certain number for my use; and I was now +directed to push for that settlement without loss of time. I returned +to Sydney in the afternoon of the 9th, and on the 10th took leave of my +brother officers, to commence a journey of very dubious issue; and, in +company with my friend, Staff-surgeon M'Leod, who had obtained +permission to accompany me to the limits of the colony, followed my men +along the great western road. We moved leisurely over the level +country, between the coast and the Nepean River, and availed ourselves +of the kind hospitality of those of our friends whose property lay +along that line of road, to secure more comfortable places of rest than +the inns would have afforded. + +We reached Sheane, the residence of Dr. Harris, on the 11th, and were +received by him with the characteristic kindness with which friends or +strangers are ever welcomed by that gentleman, He had accompanied Mr. +Oxley as a volunteer in 1818, and his name was then given to the mount +which formed the extreme point to which the main body of the first +expedition down the banks of the Macquarie penetrated, in a westerly +direction. + +The general appearance of the property of Dr. Harris, showed how much +perseverance and labour had effected towards its improvement. Many +acres of ground bore a promising crop, over which a gloomy forest had +once waved. The Doctor's farming establishment was as complete as his +husbandry seemed to be prosperous; but he did not appear to be +satisfied with the extent of his dwelling, to which he was making +considerable additions, although I should have thought it large enough +for all ordinary purposes of residence or hospitality. The rewards of +successful industry were everywhere visible. + +FROM EMU PLAINS TO WELLINGTON VALLEY. + +On the 13th, we gained Regent's Ville, the more splendid mansion of Sir +John Jamieson, which overlooks the Nepean River, and commands the most +beautiful and extensive views of the Blue Mountains. Crossing the ford +on the 14th, we overtook the men as they were toiling up the first +ascent of those rugged bulwarks, which certainly gave no favourable +earnest of the road before us; and, as we could scarcely hope to reach +the level country to the westward without the occurrence of some +accident, I determined to keep near the drays, that I might be on hand +should my presence be required. We gained O'Connell's plains on the +20th November, and arrived at Bathurst on the 22nd, with no other +damage than the loss of one of the props supporting the boat which +snapped in two as we descended Mount York. On examination, it was found +that the boat had also received a slight contusion, but it admitted of +easy repair. + +I was detained at Bathurst longer than I intended, in consequence of +indisposition, and during my stay there experienced many proofs of the +kind hospitality of the settlers of that promising district: nor was I +ever more impressed with the importance of the service upon which I was +employed, or more anxious as to the issue, than while contemplating the +rapid advance of agriculture upon its plains, and the formidable bar to +its prosperity which I had left behind me, in the dark and gloomy +ranges which I had crossed. + +On the 27th, Mr. Hamilton Hume, whose experience well qualified him for +the task, and who had been associated with me in the expedition, having +joined me, we proceeded on our journey, and reached Wellington Valley +about the end of the month. + +WELLINGTON VALLEY. + +I wished to push into the interior without any delay, or at least, so +soon as we should have completed our arrangements and organized the +party; but, although Mr. Maxwell had paid every attention to the +training of the cattle, he was of opinion that they could not yet be +wholly relied upon, and strongly recommended that they should be kept +at practice for another week. As we could not have left the settlement +under the most favourable circumstances in less than four days, the +further delay attendant on this measure was considered immaterial, and +it was, accordingly, determined upon. Mr. Hume undertook to superintend +the training of the animals, and this left me at leisure to gather such +information as would be of use to us in our progress down the river. + +In his description of Wellington Valley, Mr. Oxley has not done it more +than justice. It is certainly a beautiful and fertile spot, and it was +now abundant in pasturage, notwithstanding the unfavourable season that +had passed over it. + +The settlement stands upon the right bank of the Bell, about two miles +above the junction of that stream with the Macquarie. Its whitewashed +buildings bore outward testimony to the cleanliness and regularity of +the inhabitants; and the respectful conduct of the prisoners under his +charge, showed that Mr. Maxwell had maintained that discipline by which +alone he could have secured respect to himself and success to his +exertions, at such a distance from the seat of government. + +The weather was so exceedingly hot, during our stay, that it was +impossible to take exercise at noon; but in the evening, or at an early +hour in the morning, we were enabled to make short excursions in the +neighbourhood. + +Mr. Maxwell informed me that there were three stations below the +settlement, the first of which, called Gobawlin, belonging to Mr. +Wylde, was not more than five miles from it; the other two, occupied by +Mr. Palmer, were at a greater distance, one being nineteen, the other +thirty-four miles below the junction of the Bell. He was good enough to +send for the stockman (or chief herdsman), in charge of the last, to +give me such information of the nature of the country below him, as he +could furnish from personal knowledge or from the accounts of the +natives. + +LOW STATE OF THE MACQUARIE RIVER. + +Mr. Maxwell pointed out to me the spot on which Mr. Oxley's boats had +been built, close upon the bank of the Macquarie; and I could not but +reflect with some degree of apprehension on the singularly diminished +state of the river from what it must then have been to allow a boat to +pass down it. Instead of a broad stream and a rapid current, the stream +was confined to a narrow space in the centre of the channel, and it ran +so feebly amidst frequent shallows that it was often scarcely +perceptible. The Bell, also, which Mr. Oxley describes as dashing and +rippling along its pebbly bed, had ceased to flow, and consisted merely +of a chain of ponds. + +On the 3rd of Dec, the stockman from below arrived; but the only +information we gathered from him was the existence of a lake to the +left of the river, about three days' journey below the run of his +herds, on the banks of which he assured us, the native companions, a +species of stork, stood in rows like companies of soldiers. + +He brought up a nest of small paroquets of the most beautiful plumage, +as a present to Mr. Maxwell, and affirmed that they were common about +his part of the river. The peculiarity of the seasons had also brought +a parrot into the valley which had never before visited it. This +delicate bird was noticed by Captain Cook upon the coast, and is called +PSITTACUS NOVAE HOLLANDIAE, or New Holland Parrot, by Mr. Brown. It had +not, however, been subsequently seen until the summer of 1828, when it +made its appearance at Wellington Valley in considerable numbers, +together with a species of merops or mountain bee-eater. + +DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR. + +On the 5th, our preparations being wholly completed, and the loads +arranged, the party was mustered, and was found to consist of myself +and Mr. Hume, two soldiers and eight prisoners of the crown, two of +whom were to return with dispatches. Our animals numbered two riding, +and seven pack, horses, two draft, and eight pack, bullocks, exclusive +of two horses of my own, and two for the men to be sent back. + +BANKS OF THE MACQUARIE. + +The morning of the 7th December, the day upon which we were to leave +the valley, was ushered in by a cloudless sky, and that heated +appearance in the atmosphere which foretells an oppressively sultry +day. I therefore put off the moment of our departure to the evening, +and determined to proceed no further than Gobawlin. I was the more +readily induced to order this short journey because the animals had not +been practised to their full loads, and I thought they might have given +some trouble at starting with an unusual weight. They moved off however +very quietly, and as if they had been accustomed to their work by a +long course of training. We took our departure from the settlement at 3 +p.m. and, crossing to the right bank of the Macquarie, a little above +its junction with the Bell, reached Mr Wylde's station about half-past +five. Thus we commenced our journey under circumstances as favorable as +could have been wished. In disengaging ourselves on the following day +from the hills by which Wellington Valley is encompassed on the +westward, with a view to approach Mr. Palmer's first station, we kept +rather wide of the river, and only occasionally touched on its more +projecting angles. The soil at a distance from the stream was by no +means so good as that in its immediate vicinity, nor was the timber of +the same description. On the rich and picturesque grounds near the +river the angophora prevailed with the flooded gum, and the scenery +upon its banks was improved by the casuarinae that overhung them. On +the latter, inferior eucalypti and cypresses were mixed together. The +country was broken and undulating, and the hills stony, notwithstanding +which, they appeared to have an abundance of pasture upon them. Mr. +Hume rode with me to the summit of a limestone elevation, from which I +thought it probable we might have obtained such a view as would have +enabled us to form some idea of the country into which we were about to +descend. But in following the river line, the eye wandered over a dark +and unbroken forest alone. The ranges from which we were fast receding +formed an irregular and beautiful landscape to the southward; and +contrasted strongly with the appearance of the country to the N. W., in +which direction it was rapidly assuming a level. + +We reached Mr. Palmer's at a late hour in the afternoon, in consequence +of a delay we experienced in crossing a gully, and encamped upon a high +bank immediately opposite to the mouth of Molle's rivulet which here +joins the Macquarie from the southward. The cattle had consumed all the +food, and the ground on both sides of the river looked bare and arid. + +No doubt, however, the face of the country in ordinary seasons wears a +very different appearance. Its general elevation continued high; nor +did the Macquarie assume any change of aspect. Mountain debris and +rounded pebbles of various kinds formed its bed, which was much +encumbered with timber. + +DIBILAMBLE. + +We had been unable to persuade any of the natives of Wellington Valley +to accompany us as guides, on our leaving that settlement. Even Mr. +Maxwell's influence failed; for, notwithstanding the promises of +several, when they saw that we were ready to depart, they either +feigned sickness or stated that they were afraid of the more distant +natives. The fact is, that they were too lazy to wander far from their +own district, and too fond of Maxwell's beef to leave it for a +precarious bush subsistence. Fortunately we found several natives with +Mr. Palmer's stockmen, who readily undertook to conduct us by the +nearest route to the cataract, which we considered to be midway between +Wellington Valley and Mount Harris. We started under their guidance for +Dibilamble, Mr. Palmer's second station, and reached it about half-past +4 p.m. The distance between the two is sixteen miles. The country for +some miles differs in no material point from that through which we had +already passed. The same rich tracts of soil near the river and the +same inferiority in the tracks remote from it. Near Dibilamble, +however, the limestone formation terminates, and gives place to barren +stony ridges, upon which the cypress callities is of close and stunted +growth. The ridges themselves were formed of a coarse kind of freestone +in a state of rapid decomposition. The Tabragar (the Erskine of Mr. +Oxley) falls into the Macquarie at Dibilamble. It had long ceased to +flow, being a small mountain torrent whose source, if we judge from the +shingly nature of its bed, cannot be very distant. Our descent was +considerable during the day; the rapids were frequent in the river, but +it underwent no change in its general appearance. Its waters were hard +and transparent, and its banks, in many places, extremely lofty; with a +red sandy loam and gravel under the alluvial deposits. It generally +happened that where the bank was high on the one side it was low and +subject to flood, to a limited extent at least, on the other. Upon +these low grounds the blue-gum trees were of lofty growth, but on the +upper levels box prevailed. + +SCENERY NEAR THE RIVER. + +The views upon the river were really beautiful, and varied at every +turn; nor is it possible for any tree to exceed the casuarina in the +graceful manner in which it bends over the stream, or clings to some +solitary rock in its centre. + +It here became necessary for us to cross to the left bank of the river, +not only to avoid its numerous windings, and thus to preserve as much +as possible the direct line to Mount Harris; but also, because the +travelling was much better on the south side. We therefore availed +ourselves of a ford opposite to the ground on which the tents had +stood; and then pursued our journey, in a south-westerly course, over a +country of a description very inferior to that of any we had previously +noticed. + +Iron-bark and cypresses generally prevailed along our line of route on +a poor and sandy soil, which improved after we passed Elizabeth Burn, a +small creek mentioned by Mr. Oxley. + +TAYLOR'S RIVULET. + +We approached the river again early in the day, and pitched our tent on +the summit of a sloping bank that overlooked one of its long still +reaches. We were protected from the sun by the angophora trees, which +formed a hanging wood around us, and, with its bright green foliage, +gave a cheerfulness to the scene that was altogether unusual. The +opposite side of the river was rather undulated, and the soil appeared +to be of the finest description. The grass, although growing in tufts, +afforded abundance of pasture for the cattle; and, on the whole, this +struck me as a most eligible spot for a station, and I found it +occupied as such on the return of the expedition. We had encamped about +a quarter of a mile from Taylor's Rivulet, which discharges itself into +the Macquarie from the N. E., and is the first stream, upon the right +bank, below the Wellington Valley. + +Immediately after receiving it the river sweeps away to the southward, +in consequence of which it became again necessary for us to cross it. +Our guides, who were intelligent lads, led the cattle to a ford, a +little below the junction of Taylor's Rivulet, at which we effected a +passage with some difficulty; the opposite bank being very steep, and +we were obliged to force our way up a gully for some eighty or a +hundred yards before we could extricate the team. Pursuing our journey, +in a N. W. direction, we soon left the rich and undulating grounds +bordering the river behind us. A poor, level, and open country, +succeeded them. The soil changed to a light red, sandy loam, on which +eucalypti, cypresses, and casuarinae, were intermixed with minor +shrubs; of which latter, the cherry tree (exocarpus cupressiformis) was +the most prevalent. + +At about seven miles from the river we passed some barren freestone +ridges, near which Mr. Hume killed the first kangaroo we had seen. At +mid-day we passed a small creek, at which the cattle were watered; and +afterwards continued our journey through a country similar to that over +which we had already made our way. + +As we neared the stream we noticed the acacia pendula for the first +time,--an indication of our approach to the marshes. The weather still +continued extremely hot. Our journey this day was unusually long, and +our cattle suffered so much, and moved so slowly, that it was late when +we struck upon the Macquarie, at a part where its banks were so high +that we had some difficulty in finding a good watering place. + +SURPRISE SOME NATIVES. + +Being considerably in front of the party, with one of our guides, when +we neared the river, I came suddenly upon a family of natives. They +were much terrified, and finding that they could not escape, called +vehemently to some of their companions, who were in the distance. By +the time Mr. Hume came up, they had in some measure recovered their +presence of mind, but availed themselves of the first favourable moment +to leave us. I was particular in not imposing any restraint on these +men, in consequence of which they afterwards mustered sufficient +resolution to visit us in our camp. We now judged that we were about +ten miles from the cataract, and that, according to the accounts of the +stockman, we could not be very distant from the lake he had mentioned. + +NATIVE BURIAL PLACE. + +As I was unwilling to pass any important feature of the country without +enquiry or examination, I requested Mr. Hume to interrogate the +strangers on the subject. They stated that they belonged to the lake +tribe, that the lake was a short day's journey to the eastward, and +that they would guide us to it if we wished. The matter was accordingly +arranged. They left us at dusk, but returned to the camp at the +earliest dawn; when we once more crossed the river, and, after +traversing a very level country for about nine miles, arrived at our +destination. We passed over the dried beds of lagoons, and through +coppices of cypresses and acacia pendula, or open forest, but did not +observe any of the barren stony ridges so common to the N.E. About a +mile, or a mile and a half, from the lake we examined a solitary grave +that had recently been constructed. It consisted of an oblong mound, +with three semicircular seats. A walk encompassed the whole, from which +three others branched off for a few yards only, into the forest. +Several cypresses, overhanging the grave, were fancifully carved on the +inner side, and on one the shape of a heart was deeply engraved. + +BUDDAH LAKE. + +We were sadly disappointed in the appearance of the lake, which the +natives call the Buddah. It is a serpentine sheet of fresh water, of +rather more than a mile in length, and from three to four hundred yards +in breadth. Its depth was four fathoms; but it seemed as if it were now +five or six feet below the ordinary level. No stream either runs into +it or flows from it; yet it abounds in fish; from which circumstance I +should imagine that it originally owed its supply to the river during +some extensive inundation. Notwithstanding that we had crossed some +rich tracts of land in our way to it, the neighbourhood of the lake was +by no means fertile. The trees around it were in rapid decay, and the +little vegetation to be seen appeared to derive but little advantage +from its proximity to water. + +EXTREME HEAT OF THE WEATHER. + +We had started at early dawn; and the heat had become intolerable long +ere the sun had gained the meridian. It was rendered still more +oppressive from the want of air in the dense bushes through which we +occasionally moved. At 2 p.m. the thermometer stood at 129 degrees of +Fahrenheit, in the shade; and at 149 degrees in the sun; the difference +being exactly 20 degrees. It is not to be wondered at that the cattle +suffered, although the journey was so short. The sun's rays were too +powerful even for the natives, who kept as much as possible in the +shade. In the evening, when the atmosphere was somewhat cooler, we +launched the boat upon the lake, in order to get some wild fowl and +fish; but although we were tolerably successful with our guns, we did +not take anything with our hooks. + +The natives had, in the course of the afternoon, been joined by the +rest of the tribe, and they now numbered about three and twenty. They +were rather distant in their manner, and gazed with apparent +astonishment at the scene that was passing before them. + +If there had been other proof wanting, of the lamentably parched and +exhausted state of the interior, we had on this occasion ample evidence +of it, and of the fearful severity of the drought under which the +country was suffering. As soon as the sun dipped under the horizon, +hundreds of birds came crowding to the border of the lake, to quench +the thirst they had been unable to allay in the forest. Some were +gasping, others almost too weak to avoid us, and all were indifferent +to the reports of our guns. + +CATARACT OF THE MACQUARIE. + +On leaving the Buddah, eleven only of the natives accompanied us. We +reached the river again about noon, on a north-half-east course, where +it had a rocky bed, and continued to journey along it, until we reached +the cataract at which we halted. We travelled over soil generally +inferior to that which we had seen on the preceding day, but rich in +many places. The same kind of timber was observed, but the acacia +pendula was more prevalent than any other, although near the river the +flooded gum and Australian apple-tree were of beautiful growth. + +It had appeared to me that the waters of the Macquarie had been +diminishing in volume since our departure from Wellington Valley, and I +had a favourable opportunity of judging as to the correctness of this +conclusion at the cataract, where its channel, at all times much +contracted, was particularly so on the present occasion. So little +force was there in the current, that I began to entertain doubts how +long it would continue, more especially when I reflected on the level +character of the country we had entered, and the fact of the Macquarie +not receiving any tributary between this point and the marshes. I was +in consequence led to infer that result, which, though not immediately, +eventually took place. + +As they were treated with kindness, the natives who accompanied us soon +threw off all reserve, and in the afternoon assembled at the pool below +the fall to take fish. They went very systematically to work, with +short spears in their hands that tapered gradually to a point, and sank +at once under water without splash or noise at a given signal from an +elderly man. In a short time, one or two rose with the fish they had +transfixed; the others remained about a minute under water, and then +made their appearance near the same rock into the crevices of which +they had driven their prey. Seven fine bream were taken, the whole of +which they insisted on giving to our men, although I am not aware that +any of themselves had broken their fast that day. They soon, however, +procured a quantity of muscles, with which they sat down very +contentedly at a fire. My barometrical admeasurement gave the cataract +an elevation of 680 feet above the level of the sea; and my +observations placed it in east longitude 148 degrees 3 minutes and in +latitude 31 degrees 50 minutes south. + +It became an object with us to gain the right bank of the Macquarie as +soon as possible; for it was evident that the country to the southward +of it was much more swampy than it was to the north: but for some +distance below the cataract, we found it impossible to effect our +purpose. The rocks composing the bed of the river at the cataract, +which are of trapp formation, disappeared at about eight miles below +it, when the river immediately assumed another character. Its banks +became of equal height, which had not before been the case, and +averaged from fifteen to eighteen feet. They were composed entirely of +alluvial soil, and were higher than the highest flood-marks. Its waters +appeared to be turbid and deep, and its bed was a mixture of sand and +clay. The casuarina, which had so often been admired by us, entirely +disappeared and the channel in many places became so narrow as to be +completely arched over by gum-trees. + +A TRIBE OF NATIVES. + +On the 16th, we fell in with a numerous tribe of natives who joined our +train after the very necessary ceremonies of an introduction had +passed, and when added to those who still accompanied us, amounted to +fifty-three. On this occasion I was riding somewhat in front of the +party, when I came upon them. They were very different in appearance +from those whom we had surprised at the river; and from the manner in +which I was received, I was led to infer that they had been informed of +our arrival, and had purposely assembled to meet us. I was saluted by +an old man, who had stationed himself in front of his tribe, and who +was their chief. Behind him the young men stood in a line, and behind +them the warriors were seated on the ground. + +CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. + +I had a young native with me who had attached himself to our party, and +who, from his extreme good nature and superior intelligence, was +considered by us as a first-rate kind of fellow. He explained who and +what we were, and I was glad to observe that the old chief seemed +perfectly reconciled to my presence, although he cast many an anxious +glance at the long train of animals that were approaching. The +warriors, I remarked, never lifted their eyes from the ground. They +were hideously painted with red and yellow ochre, and had their weapons +at their sides, while their countenances were fixed, sullen, and +determined. In order to overcome this mood, I rode up to them, and, +taking a spear from the nearest, gave him my gun to examine; a mark of +confidence that was not lost upon them, for they immediately relaxed +from their gravity, and as soon as my party arrived, rose up and +followed us. That which appeared most to excite their surprise, was the +motion of the wheels of the boat carriage. The young native whom I have +noticed above, acted as interpreter, and, by his facetious manner, +contrived to keep the whole of us in a fit of laughter as we moved +along. He had been named Botheri by some stockman. + + +In consequence of our wish to cross the river, we kept near it, and +experienced considerable delay from the frequent marshes that opposed +themselves to our progress. In one of these we saw a number of ibises +and spoonbills; and the natives succeeded in killing two or three +snakes. Our view to the westward was extremely limited; but to the +eastward the country appeared in some places to expand into plains. + +CROSSING OF THE RIVER. + +After travelling some miles down the banks of the river, finding that +they still retained their steep character, we turned back to a place +which Mr. Hume had observed, and at which he thought we might, with +some little trouble, cross to the opposite side. And, however +objectionable the attempt was, we found ourselves obliged to make it. +We descended, therefore, into the channel of the river, and unloaded +the animals and boat-carriage. In order to facilitate the ascent of the +right bank, some of the men were directed to cut steps up it. I was +amused to see the natives voluntarily assist them; and was surprised +when they took up bags of flour weighing 100 pounds each, and carried +them across the river. We were not long in getting the whole of the +stores over. The boat was then hoisted on the shoulders of the +strongest, and deposited on the top of the opposite bank; and ropes +being afterwards attached to the carriage, it was soon drawn up to a +place of safety. The natives worked as hard as our own people, and +that, too, with a cheerfulness for which I was altogether unprepared, +and which is certainly foreign to their natural habits. We pitched our +tents as soon as we had effected the passage of the river; after which, +the men went to bathe, and blacks and whites were mingled promiscuously +in the stream. I did not observe that the former differed in any +respect from the natives who frequent the located districts. They were +generally clean limbed and stout, and some of the young men had +pleasing intelligent countenances. They lacerate their bodies, +inflicting deep wounds to raise the flesh, and extract the front teeth +like the Bathurst tribes; and their weapons are precisely the same. +They are certainly a merry people, and sit up laughing and talking more +than half the night. + +BAROMETER BROKEN. + +During the removal of the stores my barometer was unfortunately broken, +and I had often, in the subsequent stages of the journey, occasion to +regret the accident. I apprehend that the corks in the instrument, +placed to steady the tube, are too distant from each other in most +cases; and indeed I fear that barometers as at present constructed, +will seldom be carried with safety in overland expeditions. + +DESERTED BY THE NATIVES. + +Nine only of the natives accompanied us on the morning succeeding the +day in which we crossed the river. Botheri was, however, at the head of +them; and, as we journeyed along, he informed me that he had been +promised a wife on his return from acting as our guide, by the chief of +the last tribe. The excessive heat of the weather obliged us to shorten +our journey, and we encamped about noon in some scrub after having +traversed a level country for about eleven miles. + +Several considerable plains were noticed to our right, stretching east +and west, which were generally rich in point of soil; but we passed +through much brushy land during the day. It was lamentable to see the +state of vegetation upon the plains from want of moisture. Although the +country had assumed a level character, and was more open than on the +higher branches of the Macquarie, the small freestone elevations, +backing the alluvial tracts near the river, still continued upon our +right, though much diminished in height, and at a great distance from +the banks. They seemed to be covered with cypresses and beef-wood, but +dwarf-box and the acacia pendula prevailed along the plains; while +flooded-gum alone occupied the lands in the immediate neighbourhood of +the stream, which was evidently fast diminishing, both in volume and +rapidity; its bed, however, still continuing to be a mixture of sand +and clay. + +The cattle found such poor feed around the camp that they strayed away +in search of better during the night. On such an occasion Botheri and +his fraternity would have been of real service; but he had decamped at +an early hour, and had carried off an axe, a tomahawk, and some bacon, +although I had made him several presents. I was not at all surprised at +this piece of roguery, since cunning is the natural attribute of a +savage; but I was provoked at their running away at a moment when I so +much required their assistance. + +Left to ourselves, I found Mr. Hume of the most essential service in +tracking the animals, and to his perseverance we were indebted for +their speedy recovery, They had managed to find tolerable feed near a +serpentine sheet of water, which Mr. Hume thought it would be advisable +to examine. We directed our course to it as soon as the cattle were +loaded, moving through bush, and found it to be a very considerable +creek that receives a part of the superfluous waters of the Macquarie, +and distributes them, most probably, over the level country to the +north. It was much wider than the river, being from fifty to sixty +yards across, and is resorted to by the natives, who procure muscles +from its bed in great abundance. We were obliged to traverse its +eastern bank to its junction with the river, at which it fortunately +happened to be dry. We had, however, to cut roads down both its banks +before we could cross it; and, consequently, made but a short day's +journey. The soil passed over was inferior to the generality of soil +near the river, but we encamped on a tongue of land on which both the +flooded-gum and the grass were of luxuriant height. We found a quantity +of a substance like pipe-clay in the bed of the river, similar to that +mentioned by Mr. Oxley. + +GREAT HEAT. + +The heat, which had been excessive at Wellington Valley, increased upon +us as we advanced into the interior. The thermometer was seldom under +114 degrees at noon, and rose still higher at 2 p.m. We had no dews at +night, and consequently the range of the instrument was trifling in the +twenty-four hours. The country looked bare and scorched, and the plains +over which we journeyed had large fissures traversing them, so that the +earth may literally be said to have gasped for moisture. The country, +which above the cataract had borne the character of open forest, +excepting on the immediate banks of the river, where its undulations +and openness gave it a park-like appearance, or where the barren stony +ridges prevailed below that point, generally exhibited alternately +plain and brush, the soil on both of which was good. On the former, +crested pigeons were numerous, several of which were shot. We had +likewise procured some of the rose-coloured and grey parrots, mentioned +by Mr. Oxley, and a small paroquet of beautiful plumage; but there was +less of variety in the feathered race than I expected to find, and most +of the other birds we had seen were recognised by me as similar to +specimens I had procured from Melville Island, and were, therefore, +most probably birds of passage. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE RIVER. + +As we neared Mount Harris, the Macquarie became more sluggish in its +flow, and fell off so much as scarcely to deserve the name of a river. +In breadth, it averaged from thirty-five to forty-five yards, and in +the height of its banks, from fifteen to eighteen. Mr. Hume had +succeeded in taking some fish at one of the stock stations; but if I +except those speared by the natives, we had since been altogether +unsuccessful with the hook, a circumstance which I attribute to the +lowness of the river itself. + +About thirty miles from the cataract the country declines to the north +as a medium point, and again changes somewhat in its general +appearance. To the S. and S.W. it appeared level and wooded, while to +the N. the plains became more frequent, but smaller, and travelling +over them was extremely dangerous, in consequence of the large fissures +by which they were traversed. The only trees to be observed were +dwarf-box and the acacia pendula, both of stunted growth, although +flooded-gum still prevailed upon the river. + +On the 20th we travelled on a N.W. course, and in the early part of the +day passed over tolerably good soil. It was succeeded by a barren +scrub, through which we penetrated in the direction of Welcome Rock, a +point we had seen from one of the Plains and had mistaken for Mount +Harris. + +ARRIVAL AT MOUNT HARRIS. + +On a nearer approach, however, we observed our error, and corrected it +by turning more to the left; and we ultimately encamped about a mile to +the W.S.W. of the latter eminence. On issuing from the scrub we found +ourselves among reeds and coarse water-grass; and, from the appearance +of the country, we were led to conclude that we had arrived at a part +of the interior more than ordinarily subject to overflow. + +As soon as the camp was fixed, Mr. Hume and I rode to Mount Harris, +over ground subject to flood and covered for the most part by the +polygonum, being too anxious to defer our examination of its +neighbourhood even for a few hours. + +VESTIGES OF MR. OXLEY'S ENCAMPMENT. + +Nearly ten years had elapsed since Mr. Oxley pitched his tents under +the smallest of the two hills into which Mount Harris is broken. There +was no difficulty in hitting upon his position. The trenches that had +been cut round the tents were still perfect, and the marks of the +fire-places distinguishable; while the trees in the neighbourhood had +been felled, and round about them the staves of some casks and a few +tent-pegs were scattered. Mr. Oxley had selected a place at some +distance from the river, in consequence of its then swollen state. I +looked upon it from the same ground, and could not discern the waters +in its channel; so much had they fallen below their ordinary level. He +saw the river when it was overflowing its banks; on the present +occasion it had scarcely sufficient water to support a current. On the +summit of the greater eminence, which we ascended, there remained the +half-burnt planks of a boat, some clenched and rusty nails, and an old +trunk; but my search for the bottle Mr. Oxley had left was unsuccessful. + +A reflection naturally arose to my mind on examining these decaying +vestiges of a former expedition, whether I should be more fortunate +than the leader of it, and how far I should be enabled to penetrate +beyond the point which had conquered his perseverance. Only a week +before I left Sydney I had followed Mr. Oxley to the tomb. A man of +uncommon quickness, and of great ability, the task of following up his +discoveries was not less enviable than arduous; but, arrived at that +point at which his journey may be said to have terminated and mine only +to commence, I knew not how soon I should be obliged, like him, to +retreat from the marshes and exhalations of so depressed a country. My +eye instinctively turned to the North-West, and the view extended over +an apparently endless forest. I could trace the river line of trees by +their superior height; but saw no appearance of reeds, save the few +that grew on the banks of the stream. + +Mount Foster, somewhat higher than Mount Harris, on the opposite side +of the river, alone broke the line of the horizon to the North N.W. at +a distance of five miles. From that point all round the compass, the +low lands spread, like a dark sea, before me; except where a large +plain stretching from E. to W., and lying to the S.E. broke their +monotony; and if there was nothing discouraging, there certainly was +nothing cheering, in the prospect. + +ILLNESS OF TWO OF THE MEN. + +On our return to the camp, I was vexed to find two of the men, Henwood +and Williams, with increased inflammation of the eyes, of which they +had previously been complaining, and I thought it advisable to bleed +the latter. + +In consequence of the indisposition of these men, we remained +stationary on the 21st, which enabled me to pay a second visit to Mount +Harris. On ascending the smaller hill, I was surprised to find similar +vestiges on its summit to those I had noticed on the larger one; in +addition to which, the rollers still continued on the side of the hill, +which had been used to get the boat up it. [Mr. Oxley had two boats; +one of which he dragged to the top of each of these hills, and left +them turned bottom upwards, burying a bottle under the head of the +larger boat, which was conveyed to the more distant hill.] + +Mount Harris is of basaltic formation, but I could not observe any +columnar regularity in it, although large blocks are exposed above the +ground. The rock is extremely hard and sonorous. + +MOUNT FOSTER AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. + +We moved leisurely towards Mount Foster, on the 22nd, and arrived +opposite to it a little before sunset. The country between the two is +mostly open, or covered only with the acacia pendula and dwarf-box. The +soil, although an alluvial deposit, is not of the best; nor was +vegetation either fresh or close upon it. As soon as the party stopped, +I crossed the river, and lost no time in ascending the hill, being +anxious to ascertain if any fresh object was visible from its summit, I +thought that from an eminence so much above the level of the +surrounding objects, I might obtain a view of the marshes, or of water; +but I was wholly disappointed. The view was certainly extensive, but it +was otherwise unsatisfactory. Again to the N.W. the lowlands spread in +darkness before me; there were some considerable plains beyond the near +wood; but the country at the foot of the hill appeared open and +promising. Although the river line was lost in the distance, it was as +truly pointed out by the fires of the natives, which rose in upright +columns into the sky, as if it had been marked by the trees upon its +banks. + +To the eastward, Arbuthnot's range rose high above the line of the +horizon, bearing nearly due East, distant seventy miles. The following +sketch of its outlines will convey a better idea of its appearance from +Mount Foster than any written description. + +[small sketch here--not shown in etext] + +I stayed on the mount until after sunset, but I could not make out any +space that at all resembled the formidable barrier I knew we were so +rapidly approaching. I saw nothing to check our advance, and I +therefore returned to the camp, to advise with Mr. Hume upon the +subject. Not having been with me on Mount Foster, he took the +opportunity to ascend it on the following morning; and on his return +concurred with me in opinion, that there was no apparent obstacle to +our moving onwards. As the men were considerably better, I had the less +hesitation in closing with the marshes. We left our position, intending +to travel slowly, and to halt early. + +The first part of our journey was over rich flats, timbered +sufficiently to afford a shade, on which the grass was luxuriant; but +we were obliged to seek more open ground, in consequence of the +frequent stumbling of the cattle. + +We issued, at length, upon a plain, the view across which was as dreary +as can be imagined; in many places without a tree, save a few old +stumps left by the natives when they fired the timber, some of which +were still smoking in different parts of it. Observing some lofty trees +at the extremity of the plain, we moved towards them, under an +impression that they indicated the river line. But on this exposed spot +the sun's rays fell with intense power upon us, and the dust was so +minute and penetrating, that I soon regretted having left the shady +banks of the river. + +About 2.p.m. we neared the trees for which we had been making, over +ground evidently formed by alluvial deposition, and were astonished to +find that reeds alone were growing under the trees as far as the eye +could penetrate. It appeared that we were still some distance from the +river, and it was very doubtful how far we might be from water, for +which the men were anxiously calling. I therefore halted, and sent +Fraser into the reeds towards some dead trees, on which a number of +spoonbills were sitting. He found that there was a small lake in the +centre of the reeds, the resort of numerous wild fowl; but although the +men were enabled to quench their thirst, we found it impossible to +water the animals. We were obliged, therefore, to continue our course +along the edge of the reeds; which in a short time appeared in large +masses in front of us, stretching into a vast plain upon our right; and +it became evident that the whole neighbourhood was subject to extensive +inundation. + +ENCAMP AMIDST REEDS. + +I was fearful that the reeds would have checked us; but there was a +passage between the patches, through which we managed to force our way +into a deep bight, and fortunately gained the river at the bottom of it +much sooner than we expected. We were obliged to clear away a space for +the tents; and thus, although there had been no such appearance from +Mount Foster, we found ourselves in less than seven hours after leaving +it, encamped pretty far in that marsh for which we had so anxiously +looked from its summit, and now trusting to circumstances for safety, +upon ground on which, in any ordinary state of the river, it would have +been dangerous to have ventured. Indeed, as it was, our situation was +sufficiently critical, and would not admit of hesitation on my part. + +NATURE OF THE COUNTRY. + +After the cattle had been turned out, Mr. Hume and I again mounted our +horses, and proceeded to the westward, with a view to examine the +nature of the country before us, and to ascertain if it was still +practicable to move along the river side. For, although it was evident +that we had arrived at what might strictly be called the marshes of the +Macquarie, I still thought we might be at some distance from the place +where Mr. Oxley terminated his journey. + +There was no indication in the river to encourage an idea that it would +speedily terminate; nor, although we were on ground subject to +extensive inundation, could we be said to have reached the heart of the +marshes, as the reeds still continued in detached bodies only. We +forced a path through various portions of them, and passed over ground +wholly subject to flood, to a distance of about six miles. We then +crossed a small rise of ground, sufficiently high to have afforded a +retreat, had necessity obliged us to seek for one; and we shortly +afterwards descended on the river, unaltered in its appearance, and +rather increased than diminished in size. A vast plain extended to the +N.W., the extremity of which we could not discern; though a thick +forest formed its northern boundary. + +It was evident that this plain had been frequently under water, but it +was difficult to judge from the marks on the trees to what height the +floods had risen. The soil was an alluvial deposit, superficially +sandy; and many shells were scattered over its surface. To the south, +the country appeared close and low; nor do I think we could have +approached the river from that side, by reason of the huge belts of +reeds that appeared to extend as far as the the eye could reach. + +MEN ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA. + +The approach of night obliged us to return to the camp. On our arrival, +we found that the state of Henwood and Williams would prevent our +stirring for a day or two. Not only had they a return of inflammation, +but several other of the men complained of a painful irritation of the +eyes, which were dreadfully blood-shot and weak. I was in some measure +prepared for a relapse in Henwood, as the exposure which he necessarily +underwent on the plain was sufficient to produce that effect; but I now +became apprehensive that the affection would run through the party. + +Considering our situation in its different bearings, it struck me that +the men who were to return to Wellington Valley with an account our our +proceedings for the Governor's information, had been brought as far as +prudence warranted. There was no fear of their going astray, as long as +they had the river to guide them; but in the open country which we were +to all appearance approaching, or amidst fields of reeds, they might +wander from the track, and irrecoverably lose themselves. I determined, +therefore, not to risk their safety, but to prepare my dispatches for +Sydney, and I hoped most anxiously, that ere they were closed, all +symptoms of disease would have terminated. + +In the course of the day, however, Spencer, who was to return with +Riley to Wellington Valley, became seriously indisposed, and I feared +that he was attacked with dysentery. Indeed, I should have attributed +his illness to our situation, but I did not notice any unusual moisture +in the atmosphere, nor did any fogs rise from the river. I therefore +the rather attributed it to exposure and change of diet, and treated +him accordingly. To my satisfaction, when I visited the men late in the +evening, I found a general improvement in the whole of them. Spencer +was considerably relieved, and those of the party who had inflammation +of the eyes no longer felt that painful irritation of which they had +before complained. I determined, therefore, unless untoward +circumstances should prevent it, to send Riley and his companion +homewards, and to move the party without loss of time. + +We had not seen any natives for many days, but a few passed the camp on +the opposite side of the river on the evening of the 25th. They would +not, however, come to us; but fled into the interior in great apparent +alarm. + +DEPARTURE OF TWO MEN FOR WELLINGTON. + +On the morning of the 26th, the men were sufficiently recovered to +pursue their journey. Riley and Spencer left us at an early hour; and +about 7 a.m. we pursued a N.N.W. course along the great plain I have +noticed, starting numberless quails, and many wild turkeys, by the way. +Leaving that part of the river on which Mr. Hume and I had touched +considerably to the left, we made for the point of a wood, projecting +from the river line of trees into the plain. The ground under us was an +alluvial deposit, and bore all the marks of frequent inundation. + +The soil was yielding, blistered, and uneven; and the claws of +cray-fish, together with numerous small shells, were every where +collected in the hollows made by the subsiding of the waters, between +broad belts of reeds and scrubs of polygonum. + +CONSULTATION. + +On gaining the point of the wood, we found an absolute check put to our +further progress. We had been moving directly on the great body of the +marsh, and from the wood it spread in boundless extent before us. It +was evidently lower than the ground on which we stood; we had +therefore, a complete view over the whole expanse; and there was a +dreariness and desolation pervading the scene that strengthened as we +gazed upon it. Under existing circumstances, it only remained for us +either to skirt the reeds to the northward, or to turn in again upon +the river; and as I considered it important to ascertain the direction +of the Macquarie at so critical and interesting a point, I thought it +better to adopt the latter measure. We, accordingly, made for the +river, and pitched our tents, as at the last station, in the midst of +reeds. + +There were two points at this time, upon which I was extremely anxious. +The first was as to the course of the river; the second, as to the +extent of the marshes by which we had been checked, and the +practicability of the country to the northward. + +In advising with Mr. Hume, I proposed launching the boat, as the surest +means of ascertaining the former, and he, on his part, most readily +volunteered to examine the marshes, in any direction I should point +out. It was therefore, arranged, that I should take two men, and a +week's provision with me in the boat down the river; and that he should +proceed with a like number of men on an excursion to the northward. + +After having given directions as to the regulations of camp during our +absence, we separated, on the morning of the 26th for the first time, +in furtherance of the objects each had in view. + +BOAT EXCURSION. + +In pulling down the river, I found that its channel was at first +extremely tortuous and irregular, but that it held a general N.W. +course, and bore much the same appearance as it had done since our +descent from Mount Foster. + +We had a laborious task in lifting the boat over the trunks of trees +that had fallen into the channel of the river or that had been left by +the floods, and at length we stove her in upon a sunken log. The injury +she received was too serious not to require immediate repair; and we, +therefore, patched her up with a tin plate. This accident occasioned +some delay, and the morning was consumed without our having made any +considerable progress. At length, however, we got into a more open +channel. + +The river suddenly increased in breadth to thirty-five or forty-five +yards, with a depth of from twelve to twenty feet of water. Its banks +shelved perpendicularly down, and were almost on a level with the +surface of the stream; and the flood mark was not more than two feet +high on the reeds by which they were lined. We had hitherto passed +under the shade of the flooded gum, which still continued on the +immediate banks of the river; but, the farther we advanced, the more +did we find these trees in a state of decay, until at length they +ceased, or were only rarely met with. + +TERMINATION OF THE RIVER. + +About 2 p.m. I brought up under a solitary tree, in consequence of +heavy rain: this was upon the left bank. In the afternoon, however, we +again pushed forward, and soon lost sight of every other object amidst +reeds of great height. The channel of the river continued as broad and +as deep as ever, but the flood mark did not show more than a foot above +the banks, which were now almost on a level with the water; and the +current was so sluggish as to be scarcely perceptible. These general +appearances continued for about three miles, when our course was +suddenly, and most unexpectedly, checked. The channel, which had +promised so well, without any change in its breadth or depth, ceased +altogether; and whilst we were yet lost in astonishment at so abrupt a +termination of it, the boat grounded. It only remained for us to +examine the banks, which we did with particular attention. Two creeks +were then discovered, so small as scarcely to deserve the name, and +which would, under ordinary circumstances, have been overlooked. The +one branched off to the north--the other to the west. We were obliged +to get out of the boat to push up the former, the leeches sticking in +numbers to our legs. The creek continued for about thirty yards, when +it was terminated; and, in order fully to satisfy myself of the fact, I +walked round the head of it by pushing through the reeds. Night coming +on, we returned to the tree at which we had stopped during the rain, +and slept under it. The men cut away the reeds, or we should not have +had room to move. At 2 a.m. it commenced raining, with a heavy storm of +thunder and lightning; the boat was consequently hauled ashore, and +turned over to afford us a temporary shelter. The lightning was +extremely vivid, and frequently played upon the ground, near the +firelocks, for more than a quarter of a minute at a time. + +It is singular, that Mr. Oxley should, under similar circumstances, +have experienced an equally stormy night, and most probably within a +few yards of the place on which I had posted myself. Notwithstanding +that the elements were raging around me, as if to warn me of the danger +of my situation, my mind turned solely on the singular failure of the +river. I could not but encourage hopes that this second channel that +remained to be explored would lead us into an open space again; and as +soon as the morning dawned we pursued our way to it. In passing some +dead trees upon the right bank, I stopped to ascend one, that, from an +elevation, I might survey the marsh, but I found it impossible to trace +the river through it. The country to the westward was covered with +reeds, apparently to the distance of seven miles; to the N.W. to a +still greater distance; and to the north they bounded the horizon. + +The whole expanse was level and unbroken, but here and there the reeds +were higher and darker than at other places, as if they grew near +constant moisture; but I could see no appearance of water in any body, +or of high lands beyond the distant forest. + +As soon as we arrived at the end of the main channel, we again got out +of the boat, and in pushing up the smaller one, soon found ourselves +under a dark arch of reeds. It did not, however, continue more than +twenty yards when it ceased, and I walked round the head of it as I had +done round that of the other. We then examined the space between the +creeks, where the bank receives the force of the current, which I did +not doubt had formed them by the separation of its eddies. Observing +water among the reeds, I pushed through them with infinite labour to a +considerable distance. The soil proved to be a stiff clay; the reeds +were closely embodied, and from ten to twelve feet high; the waters +were in some places ankle deep, and in others scarcely covered the +surface. They were flowing in different points, with greater speed than +those of the river, which at once convinced me that they were not +permanent, but must have lodged in the night during which so much rain +had fallen. They ultimately appeared to flow to the northward, but I +found it impossible to follow them, and it was not without difficulty +that, after having wandered about at every point of the compass, I +again reached the boat. + +CAUSES OF THE FAILURE OF THE RIVER. + +The care with which I had noted every change that took place in the +Macquarie, from Wellington Valley downwards, enabled me, in some +measure, to account for its present features. I was led to conclude +that the waters of the river being so small in body, excepting in times +of flood, and flowing for so many miles through a level country without +receiving any tributary to support their first impulse, became too +sluggish, long ere they reached the marshes, to cleave through so +formidable a barrier; and consequently spread over the surrounding +country--whether again to take up the character of a river, we had +still to determine. Unless, however, a decline of country should favour +its assuming its original shape, it was evident that the Macquarie +would not be found to exist beyond this marsh, of the nature and extent +of which we were still ignorant. The loss of my barometer was at this +time severely felt by me, since I could only guess at our probable +height above the ocean; and I found that my only course was to +endeavour to force my way to the northward, to ascertain, if I could, +from the bottom of the marshes; then penetrate in a westerly direction +beyond them, in order to commence my survey of the S.W. interior. I was +aware of Mr. Hume's perseverance, and determined, therefore, to wait +the result of his report ere I again moved the camp, to which we +returned late in the afternoon of the second day of our departure. We +found it unsufferably hot and suffocating in the reeds, and were +tormented by myriads of mosquitoes, but the waters were perfectly sweet +to the taste, nor did the slightest smell, as of stagnation, proceed +from them. I may add that the birds, whose sanctuary we had invaded, as +the bittern and various tribes of the galinule, together with the +frogs, made incessant noises around us, There were, however, but few +water-fowl on the river; which was an additional proof to me that we +were not near any very extensive lake. + +MR. HUME'S REPORT. + +Mr. Hume had returned before me to the camp, and had succeeded in +finding a serpentine sheet of water, about twelve miles to the +northward; which he did not doubt to be the channel of the river. He +had pushed on after this success, in the hope of gaining a further +knowledge of the country; but another still more extensive marsh +checked him, and obliged him to retrace his steps. He was no less +surprised at the account I gave of the termination of the river, than I +was at its so speedily re-forming, and it was determined to lose no +time in the further examination of so singular a region. + +FALSE CHANNEL; PERPLEXITIES. + +On the morning of the 28th therefore we broke up the camp, and +proceeded to the northward, under Mr. Hume's guidance, moving over +ground wholly subject to flood, and extensively covered with reeds; the +great body of the marsh lying upon our left. After passing the angle of +a wood, upon our right, from which Mount Foster was distant about +fourteen miles, we got upon a small plain, on which there was a new +species of tortuous box. This plain was clear of reeds, and the soil +upon it was very rich. Crossing in a westerly direction we arrived at +the channel found by Mr. Hume, who must naturally have concluded that +it was a continuation of the river. The boat was immediately prepared, +and I went up it in order to ascertain the nature of its formation. For +two miles it preserved a pretty general width of from twenty to thirty +yards; but at that distance began to narrow, and at length it became +quite shallow and covered with weeds. We were ultimately obliged to +abandon the boat, and to walk along a native path. The country to the +westward was more open than I had expected. About a quarter of a mile +from where we had left the boat, the channel separated into two +branches; to which I perceived it owed its formation, coming, as they +evidently did, direct from the heart of the marsh. The wood through +which I had entered it on the first occasion bore south of me, to which +one of the branches inclined; as the other did to the S.W. An almost +imperceptible rise of ground was before me, which, by giving an impetus +to the waters of the marsh, accounted to me for the formation of the +main channel. It was too late, on my return to the camp, to prosecute +any further examination of it downwards; but in the morning, Mr. Hume +accompanied me in the boat, to ascertain to what point it led; and we +found that at about a mile it began to diminish in breadth, until at +length it was completely lost in a second expanse of reeds. We passed a +singular scaffolding erected by the natives, on the side of the +channel, to take fish; and also found a weir at the termination of it +for the like purpose so that it was evident the natives occasionally +ventured into the marshes. + +There was a small wood to our left which Mr. Hume endeavoured to gain, +but he failed in the attempt. He did, however, reach a tree that was +sufficiently high to give him a full view of the marsh, which appeared +to extend in every direction, but more particularly to the north, for +many miles. We were, however, at fault, and I really felt at a loss +what step to take. I should have been led to believe from the extreme +flatness of the country, that the Macquarie would never assume its +natural shape, but from the direction of the marshes I could not but +indulge a hope that it would meet the Castlereagh, and that their +united waters might form a stream of some importance. Under this +impression I determined on again sending Mr. Hume to the N.E. in order +to ascertain the nature of the country in that direction. + +EXCURSION TO THE NORTH-WEST. + +The weather was excessively hot, and as my men were but slowly +recovering, I was anxious while those who were in health continued +active, to give the others a few days of rest. I proposed, therefore, +to cross the river, and to make an excursion into the interior, during +the probable time of Mr. Hume's absence; since if, as I imagined, the +Macquarie had taken a permanent northerly course, I should not have an +opportunity of examining the distant western country. Mr. Hume's +experience rendered it unnecessary for me to give him other than +general directions. + +A PLAIN ON FIRE. + +On the last day of the year we left the camp, each accompanied by two +men. I had the evening previously ordered the horses I intended taking +with me across the channel, and at an early hour of the morning I +followed them. Getting on a plain, immediately after I had disengaged +myself from the reeds on the opposite side of the river, which was full +of holes and exceedingly treacherous for the animals, I pushed on for a +part of the wood Mr. Hume had endeavoured to gain from the boat, with +the intention of keeping near the marsh. On entering it, I found myself +in a thick brush of eucalypti, casuarinae and minor trees; the soil +under them being mixed with sand. I kept a N.N.W. course through it, +and at the distance of three miles from its commencement, ascended a +tree, to ascertain if I was near the marshes; when I found that I was +fast receding from them. I concluded, therefore, that my conjecture as +to their direction was right, and altered my course to N.W., a +direction in which I had observed a dense smoke arising, which I +supposed had been made by some natives near water. At the termination +of the brush I crossed a barren sandy plain, and from it saw the smoke +ascending at a few miles' distance from me. Passing through a wood, at +the extremity of the plain, I found myself at the outskirts of an open +space of great extent, almost wholly enveloped in flames. The fire was +running with incredible rapidity through the rhagodia shrubs with which +it was covered. Passing quickly over it, I continued my journey to the +N.W. over barren plains of red sandy loam of even surface, and bushes +of cypresses skirted by acacia pendula. It was not until after sunset +that we struck upon a creek, in which the water was excellent; and we +halted on its banks for the night, calculating our distance at +twenty-nine miles from the camp. The creek was of considerable size, +leading northerly. Several huts were observed by us, and from the heaps +of muscle-shells that were scattered about, there could be no doubt of +its being much frequented by the natives. The grass being fairly burnt +up, our animals found but little to eat, but they had a tolerable +journey, and did not attempt to wander in search of better food. I shot +a snipe near the creek, much resembling the painted snipe of India; but +I had not the means with me of preserving it. + +A TRIBE OF NATIVES. + +Continuing our journey on the following morning, we at first kept on +the banks of the creek, and at about a quarter of a mile from where we +had slept, came upon a numerous tribe of natives. A young girl sitting +by the fire was the first to observe us as we were slowly approaching +her. She was so excessively alarmed, that she had not the power to run +away; but threw herself on the ground and screamed violently. We now +observed a number of huts, out of which the natives issued, little +dreaming of the spectacle they were to behold. But the moment they saw +us, they started back; their huts were in a moment in flames, and each +with a fire-brand ran to and fro with hideous yells, thrusting them +into every bush they passed. I walked my horse quietly towards an old +man who stood more forward than the rest, as if he intended to devote +himself for the preservation of his tribe. I had intended speaking to +him, but on a nearer approach I remarked that he trembled so violently +that it was impossible to expect that I could obtain any information +from him, and as I had not time for explanations, I left him to form +his own conjectures as to what we were, and continued to move towards a +thick brush, into which they did not venture to follow us. + +CONTINUE OUR JOURNEY. + +After a ride of about eighteen miles, through a country of alternate +plain and brush, we struck upon a second creek leading like the first +to the northward. The water in it was very bitter and muddy, and it was +much inferior in appearance to that at which we had slept. After +stopping for half-an-hour upon its banks, to rest our animals, we again +pushed forward. We had not as yet risen any perceptible height above +the level of the marshes, but had left the country subject to overflow +for a considerable space behind us. The brushes through which we had +passed were too sandy to retain water long, but the plains were of such +an even surface, that they could not but continue wet for a +considerable period after any fall of rain. They were covered with +salsolaceous plants, without a blade of grass; and their soil was +generally a red sandy loam. There were occasional patches that appeared +moist, in which the calystemma was abundant, and these patches must, I +should imagine, form quagmires in the wet season. + +On leaving the last-mentioned creek, we found a gently rising country +before us; and about three or four miles from it we crossed some stony +ridges, covered with a new species of acacia so thickly as to prevent +our obtaining any view from them. As the sun declined, we got into open +forest ground; and travelled forwards in momentary expectation, from +appearances, of coming in sight of water; but we were obliged to pull +up at sunset on the outskirts of a larger plain without having our +expectation realized. The day had been extremely warm, and our animals +were as thirsty as ourselves. Hope never forsakes the human breast; and +thence it was that, after we had secured the horses, we began to wander +round our lonely bivouac. It was almost dark, when one of my men came +to inform me that he had found a small puddle of water, to which he had +been led by a pigeon. + +It was, indeed, small enough, probably the remains of a passing shower; +it was, however, sufficient for our necessities, and I thanked +Providence for its bounty to us. We were now about sixty miles from the +Macquarie, in a N.W. by W. direction, and the country had proved so +extremely discouraging, that I intimated to my men my intention of +retracing my steps, should I not discover any change in it before noon +on the morrow. A dense brush of acacia succeeded to the plain on which +we had slept, which we entered, and shortly afterwards found ourselves +in an open space, of oblong shape, at the extremity of which there was +a shallow lake. The brush completely encircled it, and a few huts were +upon its banks. About 10 p.m. we got into an open forest track of +better appearance than any over which we had recently travelled. + +ISOLATED HILL. + +There was a visible change in the country, and the soil, although red, +was extremely rich and free from sand. A short time afterwards we rose +to the summit of a round hill, from which we obtained an extensive view +on most points of the compass. We had imperceptibly risen considerably +above the general level of the interior. + +VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. + +Beneath us, to the westward, I observed a broad and thinly wooded +valley; and W. by S., distant apparently about twenty miles, an +isolated mountain, whose sides seemed almost perpendicular, broke the +otherwise even line of the horizon; but the country in every other +direction looked as if it was darkly wooded. Anticipating that I should +find a stream in the valley, I did not for a moment hesitate in +striking down into it. Disappointed, however, in this expectation, I +continued onwards to the mountain, which I reached just before the sun +set. Indeed, he was barely visible when I gained its summit; but my +eyes, from exposure to his glare, became so weak, my face was so +blistered, and my lips cracked in so many places, that I was unable to +look towards the west, and was actually obliged to sit down behind a +rock until he had set. + +Perhaps no time is so favourable for a view along the horizon as the +sunset hour; and here, at an elevation of from five to six hundred feet +above the plain, the visible line of it could not have been less than +from thirty-five to forty-five miles. The hill upon which I stood was +broken into two points; the one was a bold rocky elevation; the other +had its rear face also perpendicular, but gradually declined to the +north, and at a distance of from four to five miles was lost in an +extensive and open plain in that direction. In the S.E. quarter, two +wooded hills were visible, which before had appeared to be nothing more +than swells in the general level of the country. A small hill, similar +to the above, bore N.E. by compass; and again, to the west, a more +considerable mountain than that I had ascended, and evidently much +higher, reflected the last beams of the sun as he sunk behind them. I +looked, however, in vain for water. I could not trace either the +windings of a stream, or the course of a mountain torrent; and, as we +had passed a swamp about a mile from the hill, we descended to it for +the night, during which we were grievously tormented by the mosquitoes. + +RESULTS OF THE EXCURSION. + +I had no inducement to proceed further into the interior. I had been +sufficiently disappointed in the termination of this excursion, and the +track before me was still less inviting. Nothing but a dense forest, +and a level country, existed between me and the distant hill. I had +learnt, by experience, that it was impossible to form any opinion of +the probable features of so singular a region as that in which I was +wandering, from previous appearances, or to expect the same result, as +in other countries, from similar causes. In a geographical point of +view, my journey had been more successful, and had enabled me to put to +rest for ever a question of much previous doubt. Of whatever extent the +marshes of the Macquarie might be, it was evident they were not +connected with those of the Lachlan. I had gained knowledge of more +than 100 miles of the western interior, and had ascertained that no +sea, indeed that little water, existed on its surface; and that, +although it is generally flat, it still has elevations of considerable +magnitude upon it. + +Although I had passed over much barren ground, I had likewise noticed +soil that was far from poor, and the vegetation upon which in ordinary +seasons would, I am convinced, have borne a very different aspect. + +Yet, upon the whole, the space I traversed is unlikely to become the +haunt of civilized man, or will only become so in isolated spots, as a +chain of connection to a more fertile country; if such a country exist +to the westward. + +The hill which thus became the extreme of my journey, is of sandstone +formation, and is bold and precipitous. Its summit is level and lightly +timbered. As a tribute of respect to the late Surveyor-General, I +called it Oxley's Table Land, and I named the distant hills D'Urban's +Group, after Sir Benjamin D'Urban, in compliance with a previous +request of my friend Lieut. De la Condamine, that I would so name any +prominent feature of the interior that I might happen to come upon. + +RETURN TO THE CAMP. + +In returning to the camp, I made a circuit to the N.E., and reached the +Macquarie late on the evening of the 5th of January; having been absent +six days, during which we could not have ridden less than 200 miles. +Yet the horses were not so fatigued as it was natural to expect they +would have been. + +My servant informed me that a party of natives had visited the camp on +the 3rd, but that they retired precipitately on seeing the animals. I +regretted to find the men but little better than when I left them. +Several still complained of a painful irritation of the eyes, and of +great weakness of sight. Attributing their continued indisposition in +some measure to our situation, I was anxious to have moved from it; but +as Mr. Hume was still absent, I could not decide upon the measure. He +made his appearance, however, on the 6th, having ridden the greater +part of the day through rain, which commenced to fall in the morning. +Soon after his arrival, Dawber, my overseer of animals, who had +accompanied him, was taken suddenly ill. During the night he became +much worse, with shivering and spasms, and on the following morning he +was extremely weak and feverish. To add to my anxiety, Mr. Hume also +complained of indisposition. His state of health made me the more +anxious to quit a position which I fancied unwholesome, and in which, +if there was no apparent, there was certainly some secret, exciting +cause; and as Mr. Hume reported having crossed a chain of ponds about +four miles to the eastward, and out of the immediate precincts of the +marshes, I ordered the tents to be struck, and placing Dawber on my +horse, we all moved quietly over to them. + +MR. HUME'S EXCURSION. + +The result of Mr. Hume's journey perplexed me exceedingly. He stated, +that on setting out from the Macquarie his intention was to have +proceeded to the N.E., to ascertain how far the reeds existed in that +direction, and, if at all practicable, to reach the Castlereagh; but in +case of failure, to regain the Macquarie by a westerly course. At first +he travelled nearly four miles east, to clear the marshes, when he came +on the chain of ponds to which we had removed. + +He travelled over good soil for two miles after crossing this chain of +ponds, but afterwards got on a red sandy loam, and found it difficult +to proceed, by reason of the thickness of the brush, and the swampy +state of the ground in consequence of the late rain. + +The timber in the brushes was of various kinds, and he saw numerous +kangaroos and emus. On issuing from this brush, he crossed a creek, +leading northerly, the banks of which were from ten to twelve feet +high. Whatever the body of water usually in it is, it now only afforded +a few shallow puddles. Mr. Hume travelled through brushes until he came +upon a third creek, similar to the one he had left behind him, at which +he halted for the night. The water in it was bad, and the feed for the +animals extremely poor. The brush lined the creek thickly, and +consisted chiefly of acacia pendula and box. The country preserved an +uniform level, nor did Mr. Hume, from the highest trees, observe any +break on the horizon. + +On the 2nd of January, Mr. Hume kept more northerly, being unable to +penetrate the brushes he encountered. At two miles he crossed a creek +leading to the N.W., between which and the place at which he had slept, +he passed a native burial ground, containing eight graves. The earth +was piled up in a conical shape, but the trees were not carved over as +he had seen them in most other places. + +The country became more open after he had passed the last mentioned +creek, which he again struck upon at the distance of eight miles, and +as it was then leading to the N.N.E. he followed it down for eighteen +or twenty miles, and crossed it frequently during the day. The creek +was dry in most places, and where he stopped for the night the water +was bad, and the cattle feed indifferent. + +Mr. Hume saw many huts, but none of them had been recently occupied, +although large quantities of muscle-shells were scattered about. He +computed that he had travelled about thirty miles, in a N.N.W. +direction, and the whole of the land he passed over was, generally +speaking, bad, nor did it appear to be subject to overflow. + +On the 3rd, Mr. Hume proceeded down the creek on which he had slept, on +a northern course, under an impression that it would have joined the +Castlereagh, but it took a N.W. direction after he had ridden about +four miles, and then turned again to the eastward of north. In +consequence of this, he left it, and proceeded to the westward, being +of opinion that the river just mentioned must have taken a more +northerly course than Mr. Oxley supposed it to have done. + +A short time after Mr. Hume turned towards the Macquarie, the country +assumed a more pleasing appearance. He soon cleared the brushes, and at +two miles came upon a chain of ponds, again running northerly in times +of flood. Shortly after crossing these, he found himself on an +extensive plain, apparently subject to overflow. The timber on it was +chiefly of the blue-gum kind, and the ground was covered with shells. +He then thought he was approaching the Macquarie, and proceeded due +west across the flat for about two miles. At the extremity of it there +was a hollow, which he searched in vain for water. Ascending about +thirty feet, he entered a thick brush of box and acacia pendula, which +continued for fourteen miles, when it terminated abruptly, and +extensive plains of good soil commenced, stretching from N. to S. as +far as the eye could reach, on which there were many kangaroos. +Continuing to journey over them, he reached a creek at 5 p.m. on which +the wild fowl were numerous, running nearly north and south, and he +rested on its banks for the night. The timber consisted both of blue +and rough gum, and the soil was a light earth. + +Mr. Hume expected in the course of the day to have reached the +Macquarie, but on arriving at the creek, he began to doubt whether it +any longer existed, or whether it had not taken a more westerly +direction. On the following morning, therefore, he crossed the creek, +and travelled W.S.W., for about two miles over good plains; then +through light brushes of swamp-oak, cypress, box, and acacia pendula, +for about twelve miles, to another creek leading northerly. He shortly +afterwards ascended a range of hills stretching W.N.W. to which he gave +the name of New Year's Range. From these hills, he had an extensive +view, although not upon the highest part, but the only break he could +see in the horizon was caused by some hills bearing by compass W. by S. +distant about twenty-five miles. There was, however, an appearance as +of high land to the northward, although Mr. Hume thought it might have +been an atmospheric deception. From the range he looked in vain for the +Macquarie, or other waters, and, as his provisions were nearly +consumed, he was obliged to give up all further pursuit, and to retrace +his steps. He fell in with two parties of natives, which, taken +collectively, amounted to thirty-five in number, but had no +communication with them. + +It was evident, from the above account, that supposing a line to have +been drawn from the camp northerly, Mr. Hume must have travelled +considerably to the westward of it, and as I had run on a N.W. course +from the marshes, it necessarily followed that our lines of route must +have intersected each other, or that want of extension could alone have +prevented them from having done so; but that, under any circumstances, +they could not have been very far apart. This was too important a point +to be left undecided, as upon it the question of the Macquarie's +termination seemed to depend. + +Both Mr. Hume and myself were of opinion, that a medium course would be +the most satisfactory for us to pursue, to decide this point; and it +appeared that we could not do better than, by availing ourselves of the +creek on which we were, and skirting the reeds, to take the first +opportunity of dashing through them in a westerly direction. + +DOUBTS OF THE FURTHER EXTENSION OF THE RIVER. + +I entertained great doubts as to the longer existence of the river, and +as I foresaw that, in the event of its having terminated we should +strike at once into the heart of the interior, I became anxious for the +arrival of supplies at Mount Harris; and although I could hardly expect +that they had yet reached it, I determined to proceed thither. Mr. Hume +was too unwell for me to think of imposing additional fatigue upon him; +I left him, therefore, to conduct the party, by easy stages, to the +northward, until such time as I should overtake them. Even in one day +there was a visible improvement in the men, and Dawber's attack seemed +to be rather the effects of cold than of any thing else. A death, +however, under our circumstances, would have been so truly deplorable +an event, that the least illness was sufficient to create alarm. + +I can hardly say that I was disappointed on my arrival at Mount Harris, +to find its neighbourhood silent and deserted. I remained, however, +under it for the greater part of the next day, and, prior to leaving +it, placed a sheet of paper with written instructions against a tree, +though almost without a hope that it would remain untouched. + +PERPLEXING SITUATION. + +A little after sun-set we reached the first small marsh, at which we +slept; and on the following morning I crossed the plains of the +Macquarie, and joined the party at about fifteen miles from the creek +at which I had left it. I found it in a condition that was as unlooked +for by Mr. Hume as it was unexpected by me, and really in a most +perplexing situation. + +On the day I left him, Mr. Hume only advanced about two miles, in +consequence of some derangement in the loads. Having crossed the creek, +he, the next morning, proceeded down its right bank, until it entered +the marshes and was lost. He then continued to move on the outskirts of +the latter, and having performed a journey or about eight miles, was +anxious to have stopped, but there was no water at hand. The men, +however, were so fatigued, in consequence of previous illness, that he +felt it necessary to halt after travelling about eleven miles. + +No water could be procured even here, notwithstanding that Mr. Hume, +who was quite unfit for great exertion, underwent considerable bodily +fatigue in his anxiety to find some. He was, therefore, obliged to move +early on the following morning, but neither men nor animals were in a +condition to travel; and he had scarcely made three miles' progress, +when he stopped and endeavoured to obtain a supply or water by digging +pits among the reeds. From these he had drawn sufficient for the wants +of the people when I arrived. Some rain had fallen on the 6th and 7th +of the month, or it is more than probable the expedient to which he +resorted would have failed of success. Mr. Hume, I was sorry to +observe, looked very unwell; but nothing could prevent him from further +endeavours to extricate the party from its present embarrassment. + +JOURNEY CONTINUED. + +As soon as I had taken a little refreshment, therefore, I mounted a +fresh horse; and he accompanied me across a small plain, immediately in +front of the camp, which was subject to overflow and covered with +polygonum, having a considerable extent of reeds to its right. + +From the plain we entered a wood of blue-gum, in which reeds, grass, +and brush formed a thick coppice. We at length passed into an open +space, surrounded on every side by weeds in dense bodies. The great +marsh bore south of us, and was clear and open, but behind us the +blue-gum trees formed a thick wood above the weeds. + +About two hundred yards from the outskirts of the marsh there was a +line of saplings that had perished, and round about them a number of +the tern tribe (sea swallow) were flying, one of which Mr. Hume had +followed a considerable way into the reeds the evening before, in the +hope that it would have led him to water. The circumstance of their +being in such numbers led us to penetrate towards them, when we found a +serpentine sheet of water of some length, over which they were playing. +We had scarcely time to examine it before night closed in upon us, and +it was after nine when we returned to the tents. + +From the general appearance of the country to the northward, and from +the circumstance of our having got to the bottom of the great marsh, +which but a few days before had threatened to be so formidable, I +thought it probable that the reeds would not again prove so extensive +as they had been, and I determined, if I could do so, to push through +them in a westerly direction from our position. + +SECOND GREAT MARSH. + +The pits yielded us so abundant a supply during the night, that in the +morning we found it unnecessary to take the animals to water at the +channel we had succeeded in finding the evening before; but pursuing a +westerly course we passed it, and struck deep into the reeds. At +mid-day we were hemmed in by them on every side, and had crossed over +numerous channels, by means of which the waters of the marshes are +equally and generally distributed over the space subject to their +influence. Coming to a second sheet of water, narrower, but longer, as +well as we could judge, than the first, we stopped to dine at it; and, +while the men were resting themselves, Mr. Hume rode with me in a +westerly direction, to ascertain what obstacles we still had to contend +with. Forcing our way through bodies of reeds, we at length got on a +plain, stretching from S.E. to N.W., bounded on the right by a wood of +blue-gum, under which the reeds still extended, and on the left by a +wood in which they did not appear to exist. Certain that there was no +serious obstacle in our way, we returned to the men; and as soon as +they had finished their meal, led them over the plain in a N.W. by W. +direction. It was covered with shells, and was full of holes from the +effects of flood. + +CONCLUSIONS IN REGARD TO THE MACQUARIE. + +As we were journeying over it, I requested Mr. Hume to ride into the +wood upon our left, to ascertain if it concealed any channel. On his +return he informed me that he descended from the plain into a hollow, +the bottom of which was covered with small shells and bulrushes. He +observed a new species of eucalypti, on the trunks of which the +water-mark was three feet high. After crossing this hollow, which was +about a quarter of a mile in breadth, he gained an open forest of box, +having good grass under it; and, judging from the appearance of the +country that no other channel could exist beyond him, and that he had +ascertained sufficient for the object I had in view, he turned back to +the plain. We stopped for the night under a wood of box, where the +grass, which had been burnt down, was then springing up most +beautifully green, and was relished exceedingly by the animals. + +It was in consequence of our not having crossed any channel, while +penetrating through the reeds, that could by any possible exaggeration +have been laid down as the bed of the river, that I detached Mr. Hume; +and the account he brought me at once confirmed my opinion in regard to +the Macquarie, and I thenceforth gave up every hope of ever seeing it +in its characteristic shape again. + +Independently however of all circumstantial evidence, it was clear that +the river had not re-formed at a distance of twenty-five miles to the +north of us, since Mr. Hume had gone to the westward of that point, at +about the same distance on his late journey, without having observed +the least appearance of reeds or of a river. He had, indeed, noticed a +hollow, which occasionally contained water, but he saw nothing like the +bed of a permanent stream. I became convinced, also, from observation +of the country through which we had passed, that the sources of the +Macquarie could not be of such magnitude as to give a constant flow to +it as a river, and at the same time to supply with water the vast +concavity into which it falls. In very heavy rains only could the +marshes and adjacent lands be laid wholly under water, since the +evaporation alone would be equal to the supply. + +The great plains stretching for so many miles to the westward of Mount +Harris, even where they were clear of reeds, were covered with shells +and the claws of cray-fish and their soil, although an alluvial +deposit, was superficially sandy. They bore the appearance not only of +frequent inundation, but of the floods having eventually subsided upon +them. This was particularly observable at the bottom of the marshes. We +did not find any accumulation of rubbish to indicate a rush of water to +any one point; but numerous minor channels existed to distribute the +floods equally and generally over every part of the area subject to +them, and the marks of inundation and subsidence were everywhere the +same. The plain we had last crossed, was, in like manner, covered with +shells, so that we could not yet be said to be out of the influence of +the marshes; besides which we had not crossed the hollow noticed by Mr. +Hume, which it was clear we should do, sooner or later. + +SITUATION OF THE PARTY. + +To have remained in our position would have been impossible, as there +was no water either for ourselves or the animals; to have descended +into the reeds again, for the purpose of carrying on a minute survey, +would, under existing circumstances, have been imprudent. Our +provisions were running short, and if a knowledge of the distant +interior was to be gained, we had no time to lose. It was determined, +therefore, to defer our further examination of the marshes to the +period of our return; and to pursue such a course as would soonest and +most effectually enable us to determine the character of the western +interior. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +Prosecution of our course into the interior--Mosquito Brush--Aspect and +productions of the country--Hunting party of natives--Courageous +conduct of one of them--Mosquitoes--A man missing--Group of hills +called New-Year's Range--Journey down New-Year's Creek--Tormenting +attack of the kangaroo fly--Dreariness and desolation of the +country--Oxley's Table Land--D'Urban's Group--Continue our journey down +New-Year's Creek--Extreme Disappointment on finding it salt--Fall in +with a tribe of natives--Our course arrested by the want of fresh +water--Extraordinary sound--Retreat towards the Macquarie. + + +We left our position at the head of the plain early on the 13th of +January, and, ere the sun dipped, had entered a very different country +from that in which we had been labouring for the last three weeks. We +had, as yet, passed over little other than an alluvial soil, but found +that it changed to a red loam in the brushes immediately backing the +camp. An open forest track succeeded this, over which the vegetation +had an unusual freshness, indicating that the waters had not long +subsided from its surface. We shortly afterwards crossed a hollow, +similar to that Mr. Hume had described, in which bulrushes had taken +the place of reeds. Flooded-gum trees, of large size, were also growing +in it, but on either side box alone prevailed, under which the forest +grass grew to a considerable height. We crossed the hollow two or three +times, and as often remarked the line of separation between those +trees. The last time we crossed it the country rose a few feet, and we +journeyed for the remainder of the day, at one time over good plains, +at another through brushes, until we found water and feed, at which we +stopped for the night, after having travelling about thirteen miles on +a W. by N. course. The mosquitoes were so extremely troublesome at this +place that we called it Mosquito Brush. At this time my men were +improving rapidly, and Mr. Hume complained less, and looked better. I +hoped, therefore, that our progress would be rapid into the interior. + +CREEK LEADING NORTHERLY; PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY. + +On the 14th we took up a westerly course, and in the first instance +traversed a plain of great extent; the soil of which was for the most +part a red sandy loam, but having patches of light earth upon it. The +former was covered with plants of the chenopedia kind; the latter had +evidently been quagmires, and bore even then the appearance of +moisture. At about seven miles from Mosquito Brush we struck upon a +creek of excellent water, upon which the wild fowl were numerous. Some +natives was seen, but they were only women, and seemed so alarmed that +I purposely avoided them. As the creek was leading northerly, we traced +it down on that course for about seven miles, and then halted upon its +banks, which were composed of a light tenacious earth. Brushes of +casuarina existed near it, but a tortuous box was the prevailing tree, +which, excepting for the knees of small vessels, could not have been +applied to any use, while the flooded-gum had entirely disappeared. +Some ducks were shot in the afternoon, which proved a great treat, as +we had been living for some time on salt provisions. Our animals fared +worse than ourselves, as the bed of the creek was occupied by coarse +rushes, and but little vegetation was elsewhere to be seen. I here +killed a beautiful snake, of about four feet in length, and of a bright +yellow colour: I had not, however, the means of preserving it. Fraser +collected numerous botanical specimens, and among them two kinds of +caparis. Indeed a great alteration had taken place in the minor shrubs, +and few of those now prevalent had been observed to the eastward of the +marshes. + +From the creek, which both I and Mr. Hume must have crossed on our +respective journeys, we held a westerly course for about fifteen miles, +through a country of alternate plain and brush, the latter +predominating, and in its general character differing but little from +that we had traversed the day previous. + +The acacia pendula still continued to exist on the plains backed by +dark rows of cypresses (Cupressus callitris). In the brushes, box and +casuarina (Casuarina tortuosa), with several other kinds of eucalypti, +prevailed; but none of them were sufficiently large to be of use. The +plains were so extremely level that a meridian altitude could have been +taken without any material error; and I doubt much whether it would +have been possible to have traversed them had the season been wet. + +HUNTING PARTY OF NATIVES. + +As we were travelling through a forest we surprised a hunting party of +natives. Mr. Hume and I were considerably in front of our party at the +time, and he only had his gun with him. We had been moving along so +quietly that we were not for some time observed by them. Three were +seated on the ground, under a tree, and two others were busily employed +on one of the lower branches cutting out honey. As soon as they saw us, +four of them ran away; but the fifth, who wore a cap of emu feathers, +stood for a moment looking at us, and then very deliberately dropped +out of the tree to the ground. I then advanced towards him, but before +I got round a bush that intervened, he had darted away. I was fearful +that he was gone to collect his tribe, and, under this impression, rode +quickly back for my gun to support Mr. Hume. On my arrival I found the +native was before me. He stood about twenty paces from Mr. Hume, who +was endeavouring to explain what he was; but seeing me approach he +immediately poised his spear at him, as being the nearest. Mr. Hume +then unslung his carbine, and presented it; but, as it was evident my +re-appearance had startled the savage, I pulled up; and he immediately +lowered his weapon. His coolness and courage surprised me, and +increased my desire to communicate with him. He had evidently taken +both man and horse for one animal, and as long as Mr. Hume kept his +seat, the native remained upon his guard; but when he saw him dismount, +after the first astonishment had subsided, he stuck his spear into the +ground, and walked fearlessly up to him. We easily made him comprehend +that we were in search of water; when he pointed to the west, as +indicating that we should supply our wants there. He gave his +information in a frank and manly way, without the least embarrassment, +and when the party passed, he stepped back to avoid the animals, +without the smallest confusion. I am sure he was a very brave man; and +I left him with the most favourable impressions, and not without hope +that he would follow us. + +From a more open forest, we entered a dense scrub, the soil in which +was of a bright-red colour and extremely sandy, and the timber of +various kinds. A leafless species of stenochylus aphylta, which, from +the resemblance, I at first thought one of the polygonum tribe, was +very abundant in the open spaces, and the young cypresses were +occasionally so close as to turn us from the direction in which we had +been moving. In the scrub we crossed Mr. Hume's tract, and, from the +appearance of the ground, I was led to believe mine could not be very +distant. + +FATE OF THE MACQUARIE. + +We struck upon a creek late in the afternoon, at which we stopped; New +Year's Range bearing nearly due west at about four miles' distance. Had +we struck upon my track, the question about which we were so anxious +would still have been undecided; but the circumstance of our having +crossed Mr. Hume's, which, from its direction, could not be mistaken, +convinced me of the fate of the Macquarie, and I felt assured that, +whatever channels it might have for the distribution of its waters, to +the north of our line of route, the equality of surface of the interior +would never permit it again to form a river; and that it only required +an examination of the lower parts of the marshes to confirm the theory +of the ultimate evaporation and absorption of its waters, instead of +their contributing to the permanence of an inland sea, as Mr. Oxley had +supposed. + +NEW YEAR'S RANGE. + +On the 17th of January we encamped under New Year's Range, which is the +first elevation in the interior of Eastern Australia to the westward of +Mount Harris. Yet when at its base, I do not think that we had ascended +above forty feet higher than the plains in the neighbourhood of that +last mentioned eminence. There certainly is a partial rise of country, +where the change of soil takes place from the alluvial deposits of the +marshes, to the sandy loam so prevalent on the plains we had lately +traversed; but I had to regret that I was unable to decide so +interesting a question by other than bare conjecture. + +Notwithstanding that Mr. Hume had already been on them, I encouraged +hopes that a second survey of the country from the highest point of New +Year's Range would enable us to form some opinion of it, by which to +direct our future movements; but I was disappointed. + +The two wooded hills I had seen from Oxley's Table Land were visible +from the range, bearing south; and other eminences bore by compass S.W. +and W. by S.; but in every other direction the horizon was unbroken. To +the westward, there appeared to be a valley of considerable extent, +stretching N. and S., in which latter direction there was a long strip +of cleared ground, that looked very like the sandy bed of a broad and +rapid river. The bare possibility of the reality determined me to +ascertain by inspection, whether my conjecture was right, and Mr. Hume +accompanied me on this excursion. After we left the camp we crossed a +part of the range, and travelled for some time through open forest land +that would afford excellent grazing in most seasons. We passed some +hollows, and noticed many huts that had been occupied near them; but +the hollows were now quite dry, and the huts had been long deserted. +After about ten miles' ride we reached a plain of white sand, from +which New Year's Range was distinctly visible; and this no doubt was +the spot that had attracted my attention. Pools of water continued on +it, from which circumstance it would appear that the sand had a +substratum of clay or marl. From this plain we proceeded southerly +through acacia scrub, bounding gently undulating forest land, and at +length ascended some small elevations that scarcely deserved the name +of hills. They had fragments of quartz profusely scattered over them; +and the soil, which was sandy, contained particles of mica. + +MOSQUITOES. + +The view from them was confused, nor did any fresh object meet our +observation. We had, however, considerably neared the two wooded hills, +and the elevations that from the range were to the S.W., now bore N.W. +of us. We had wandered too far from the camp to admit of our returning +to it to sleep; we therefore commenced a search for water, and having +found some, we tethered our horses near it for the night, and should +have been tolerably comfortable, had not the mosquitoes been so +extremely troublesome. They defied the power of smoke, and annoyed me +so much, that, hot as it was, I rolled myself in my boat cloak, and +perspired in consequence to such a degree, that my clothes were wet +through, and I had to stand at the fire in the morning to dry them. Mr. +Hume, who could not bear such confinement, suffered the penalty, and +was most unmercifully bitten. + +A MAN MISSING. + +We reached the camp about noon the following day, and learnt, to our +vexation, that one of the men, Norman, had lost himself shortly after +we started, and had not since been heard of. Dawber, my overseer, was +out in search of him. I awaited his return, therefore, before I took +any measures for the man's recovery; nor was I without hopes that +Dawber would have found him, as it appeared he had taken one of the +horses with him, and Dawber, by keeping his tracks, might eventually +have overtaken him. He returned, however, about 3 p.m. unsuccessful, +when Mr. Hume and I mounted our horses, and proceeded in different +directions in quest of him, but were equally disappointed. + +We met at the creek in the dark, and returned to the camp together, +when I ordered the cypresses on the range to be set on fire, and thus +illuminated the country round for many miles. In the morning, however, +as Norman had not made his appearance, we again started in search of +the poor fellow, on whose account I was now most uneasy; for his horse, +it appeared, had escaped him, and was found with the others at watering +time. + +I did not return to the camp until after sunset, more fatigued than I +recollect ever having been before. I was, however, rejoiced on being +informed that the object of my anxiety was safe in his tent; that he +had caught sight of the hill the evening before, and that he had +reached the camp shortly after I left it. He had been absent three +nights and two days, and had not tasted water or food of any kind +during that time. + +To my enquiries he replied, that, being on horseback, he thought he +could have overtaken a kangaroo, which passed him whilst waiting at the +creek for the cattle, and that in the attempt, he lost himself. It +would appear that he crossed the creek in the dark, and his horse +escaped from him on the first night. He complained more of thirst than +of hunger, although he had drunk at the watering-place to such an +excess, on his return, as to make him vomit; but, though not a little +exhausted, he had escaped better than I should have expected. + +COUNTRY AROUND NEW YEAR'S RANGE. + +New Year's Range consists of a principal group of five hills, the +loftiest of which does not measure 300 feet in height. It has lateral +ridges, extending to the N.N.W. on the one hand, and bending in to the +creek on the other. The former have a few cypresses, sterculia, and +iron bark upon them; the latter are generally covered with brush, under +box; the brush for the most part consisting of two distinct species of +stenochylus, and a new acacia. The whole range is of quartz formation, +small fragments of which are profusely scattered over the ridges, and +are abundantly incrusted with oxide of iron. The soil in the +neighbourhood of New Year's Range is a red loam, with a slight mixture +of sand. An open forest country lies between it and the creek, and it +is not at all deficient in pasture. + +NEW YEAR'S CREEK. + +That a change of soil takes place to the westward of the creek, is +obvious, from the change of vegetation, the most remarkable feature of +which is the sudden check given to the further extension of the acacia +pendula, which is not to be found beyond it, it being succeeded by +another acacia of the same species and habits; neither do the plants of +the chenopedia class exist in the immediate vicinity of the range. + +I place these hills, as far as my observations will allow, in east lon. +146 degrees 32 minutes 15 seconds, and in lat. 30 degrees 21 minutes +south; the variation of the compass being 6 degrees 40 minutes easterly. + +As New Year's Creek was leading northerly, it had been determined to +trace it down as long as it should keep that course, or one to the +westward of it. We broke up the camp, therefore, under the range, on +the evening of the 18th, and moved to the creek, about two miles north +of the place at which we had before crossed it, with the intention of +prosecuting our journey on the morrow. But both Mr. Hume and I were so +fatigued that we were glad of an opportunity to rest, even for a single +day. We remained stationary, therefore, on the 19th; nor was I without +hope that the natives whom we had surprised in the woods, would have +paid us a visit, since Mr. Hume had met them in his search for Norman, +and they had promised not only to come to us, but to do all in their +power to find the man, whose footsteps some of them had crossed. They +did not, however, venture near us; and I rather attribute their having +kept aloof, to the circumstance of Mr. Hume's having fired a shot, +shortly after he left them, as a signal to Norman, in the event of his +being within hearing of the report. They must have been alarmed at so +unusual a sound; but I am sure nothing was further from Mr. Hume's +intention than to intimidate them; his knowledge of their manners and +customs, as well as his partiality to the natives, being equally +remarkable. The circumstance is, however, a proof of the great caution +that is necessary in communicating with them. + +ANNOYED BY KANGAROO FLIES. + +I have said that we remained stationary the day after we left the +range, with a view to enjoy a little rest; it would, however, have been +infinitely better if we had moved forward. Our camp was infested by the +kangaroo fly, which settled upon us in thousands. They appeared to rise +from the ground, and as fast as they were swept off were succeeded by +fresh numbers. It was utterly impossible to avoid their persecution, +penetrating as they did into the very tents. + +The men were obliged to put handkerchiefs over their faces, and +stockings upon their hands; but they bit through every thing. It was to +no purpose that I myself shifted from place to place; they still +followed, or were equally numerous everywhere. To add to our +discomfort, the animals were driven almost to madness, and galloped to +and fro in so furious a manner that I was apprehensive some of them +would have been lost. I never experienced such a day of torment; and +only when the sun set, did these little creatures cease from their +attacks. + +SUDDENLY RELIEVED. + +It will be supposed that we did not stay to subject ourselves to +another trial; indeed it was with some degree of horror that the men +saw the first light of morning streak the horizon. They got up +immediately, and we moved down the creek, on a northerly course, +without breakfasting as usual. We found that dense brushes of casuarina +lined the creek on both sides, beyond which, to our left, there was +open rising ground, on which eucalypti, cypresses, and the acacia +longifolia, prevailed; whilst to the east, plains seemed to predominate. + +Although we had left the immediate spot at which the kangaroo flies +(cabarus) seemed to be collected, I did not expect that we should have +got rid of them so completely as we did. None of them were seen during +the day; a proof that they were entirely local. They were about half +the size of a common house fly, had flat brown bodies, and their bite, +although sharp and piercing, left no irritation after it. + +About noon we stopped at the creek side to take some refreshment. The +country bore an improved appearance around us, and the cattle found +abundance of pasture. It was evident that the creek had been numerously +frequented by the natives, although no recent traces of them could be +found. It had a bed of coarse red granite, of the fragments of which +the natives had constructed a weir for the purpose of taking fish. The +appearance of this rock in so isolated a situation, is worthy of the +consideration of geologists. + +DESOLATION OF THE COUNTRY. + +The promise of improvement I have noticed, gradually disappeared as we +proceeded on our day's journey, and we at length found ourselves once +more among brushes, and on the edge of plains, over which the rhagodia +prevailed. Nothing could exceed in dreariness the appearance of the +tracks through which we journeyed, on this and the two following days. +The creek on which we depended for a supply of water, gave such +alarming indications of a total failure, that I at one time, had +serious thoughts of abandoning my pursuit of it. We passed hollow after +hollow that had successively dried up, although originally of +considerable depth; and, when we at length found water, it was doubtful +how far we could make use of it. Sometimes in boiling it left a +sediment nearly equal to half its body; at other times it was so bitter +as to be quite unpalatable. That on which we subsisted was scraped up +from small puddles, heated by the sun's rays; and so uncertain were we +of finding water at the end of the day's journey, that we were obliged +to carry a supply on one of the bullocks. There was scarcely a living +creature, even of the feathered race, to be seen to break the stillness +of the forest. The native dogs alone wandered about, though they had +scarcely strength to avoid us; and their melancholy howl, breaking in +upon the ear at the dead of the night, only served to impress more +fully on the mind the absolute loneliness of the desert. + +It appeared, from their traces that the natives had lingered on this +ground, on which they had perhaps been born, as long as it continued to +afford them a scanty though precarious subsistence; but that they had +at length been forced from it. Neither fish nor muscles remained in the +creek, nor emus nor kangaroos on the plains. How then could an European +expect to find food in deserts through which the savage wandered in +vain? There is no doubt of the fate that would have overtaken any one +of the party who might have strayed away, and I was happy to find that +Norman's narrow escape had made a due impression on the minds of his +comrades. + +SANDY PLAINS; LEAVE THE CREEK. + +We passed some considerable plains, lying to the eastward of the creek, +on parts of which the grass, though growing in tufts, was of luxuriant +growth. They were, however, more generally covered with salsola and +rhagodia, and totally destitute of other vegetation, the soil upon them +being a red sandy loam. The paths across the plains, which varied in +breadth from three to eight miles, were numerous; but they had not been +recently trodden. The creek continued to have a thick brush of +casuarina and acacia near it, to the westward of which there was a +rising open forest track; the timber upon it being chiefly box, +cypress, and the acacia longifolia. It was most probably connected with +New Year's Range, those elevations being about thirty miles distant. It +terminated in some gentle hills which, though covered in places with +acacia shrub, were sufficiently open to afford an extensive view. From +their summit Oxley's Table Land, towards which we had been gradually +working our way, was distinctly visible, distant about twenty miles, +and bearing by compass W. by S. On descending from these hills (called +the Pink Hills, from the colour of a flower upon them) which were +scattered over with fragments of slaty quartz, we traversed a box flat, +apparently subject to overflow, having a barren sandy scrub to its +left. I had desired the men to preserve a W.N.W. direction, on leaving +them, supposing that that course would have kept them near the creek; +but, on overtaking the party, I found that they had wandered completely +away from it. The fact was, that the creek had taken a sudden bend to +the eastward of N. and had thus thrown them out. It was with some +difficulty that we regained it before sunset; and we were at length +obliged to stop for the night at a small plain, about a quarter of a +mile short of it, but we had the satisfaction of having excellent feed +for the animals. + +OXLEY'S TABLE LAND. + +Fearful that New Year's Creek would take us too far to the eastward, +and being anxious to keep westward as much as possible, it struck me +that we could not, under existing circumstances, do better than make +for Oxley's Table Land. Water, I knew, we should find in a swamp at +it's base, and we might discover some more encouraging feature than I +had observed on my hasty visit to it. We left the creek, therefore on +the 23rd, and once more took up a westerly course. Passing through a +generally open country, we stopped at noon to rest the animals; and +afterwards got on an excellent grazing forest track, which continued to +the brush, through another part of which I had penetrated to the marsh +more to the south. While making our way through it, we came upon a +small pond of water, and must have alarmed some natives, as there was a +fresh made fire close to it. Our journey had been unusually long, and +the cattle had felt the heat so much, that the moment they saw water +they rushed into it; and, as this created some confusion, I thought it +best to stop where we were for the night. + +In the morning, Mr. Hume walked with me to the hill, a distance of +about a mile. It is not high enough to deserve the name of a mountain, +although a beautiful feature in the country, and showing well from any +point of view. We ascended it with an anxiety that may well be +imagined, but were wholly disappointed in our most sanguine +expectations. Our chief object, in this second visit to Oxley's Table +Land, had been to examine, more at leisure, the face of the country +around it, and to discover, if possible, some fixed point on which to +move. + +If the rivers of the interior had already exhausted themselves, what +had we to expect from a creek whose diminished appearance where we left +it made us apprehend its speedy termination, and whose banks we +traversed under constant apprehension? In any other country I should +have followed such a water course, in hopes of its ultimately leading +to some reservoir; but here I could encourage no such favourable +anticipation. + +The only new object that struck our sight was a remarkable and distant +hill of conical shape, bearing by compass S. 10 E. To the southward and +westward, in the direction of D'Urban's Group, a dense and apparently +low brush extended; but to the N. and N.W., there was a regular +alternation of wood and plain. I left Mr. Hume upon the hill, that he +might the more readily notice any smoke made by the natives; and +returned myself to the camp about one o'clock, to move the party to the +swamp. Mr. Hume's perseverance was of little avail. The region he had +been overlooking was, to all appearance, uninhabited, nor did a single +fire indicate that there was even a solitary wanderer upon its surface. + +EXCURSION TO D'URBAN'S GROUP. + +Our situation, at this time, was extremely embarrassing, and the only +circumstance on which we had to congratulate ourselves was, the +improved condition of our men; for several of the cattle and horses +were in a sad plight. The weather had been so extremely oppressive, +that we had found it impossible to keep them free from eruptions. I +proposed to Mr. Hume, therefore, to give them a few days' rest, and to +make an excursion, with such of them as were serviceable, to D'Urban's +Group. We were both of us unwilling to return to the creek, but we +foresaw that a blind reliance upon fortune, in our next movements, +might involve us in inextricable difficulty. + +On the other hand, there was a very great risk in delay. It was more +than probable, from the continued drought, that our retreat would be +cut off from the want of water, or that we should only be enabled to +effect our retreat with loss of most of the animals. The hope, however, +of our intersecting some stream, or of falling upon a better country, +prevailed over other considerations; and the excursion was, +consequently, determined upon. + +DISTRESS FROM WANT OF WATER. + +We left the camp on the 25th, accompanied by Hopkinson and the tinker; +and, almost immediately after, entered an acacia scrub of the most +sterile description, and one, through which it would have been +impossible to have found a passage for the boat carriage. The soil was +almost a pure sand, and the lower branches of the trees were decayed so +generally as to give the whole an indescribable appearance of +desolation. About mid-day, we crossed a light sandy plain, on which +there were some dirty puddles of water. They were so shallow as to +leave the backs of the frogs in them exposed, and they had, in +consequence, been destroyed by solar heat, and were in a state of +putrefaction. Our horses refused to drink, but it was evident that some +natives must have partaken of this sickening beverage only a few hours +before our arrival. Indeed, it was clear that a wandering family must +have slept near this spot, as we observed a fresh made gunneah (or +native hut), and their foot-prints were so fresh along the line we were +pursuing, that we momentarily expected to have overtaken them. It was +late in the evening when we got out of this brush into better and more +open ground, where, in ordinary seasons we should, no doubt, have found +abundance of water. But we now searched in vain for it, and were +contented to be enabled to give our wearied animals better food than +they had tasted for many days, the forest grass, though in tufts, being +abundant. + +We brought up for the night at the edge of a scrub, having travelled +from thirty-two to thirty-five miles, judging the distance from the +mountains still to be about twelve. + +BEARINGS FROM OXLEY'S TABLE LAND. + +In the morning we started at an early hour, and immediately entered the +brush, beneath which we had slept; pursuing a westerly course through +it. After a short ride, we found ourselves upon a plain, that was +crowded with flocks of cockatoos. Here we got a supply of water, such +as it was--so mixed with slime as to hang in strings between the +fingers; and, after a hasty breakfast, we proceeded on our journey, +mostly through a barren sandy scrub that was a perfect burrow from the +number of wombats in it, to within a mile of the hill group, where the +country appeared like one continuous meadow to the very base of them. I +never saw anything like the luxuriance of the grass on this tract of +country, waving as it did higher than our horses' middles as we rode +through it. We ascended the S.W. face of the mountain to an elevation +of at least 800 feet above the level of the plain, and had some +difficulty in scaling the masses of rock that opposed themselves to our +progress. But on gaining the summit, we were amply repaid for our +trouble. The view extended far and wide, but we were again disappointed +in the main object that had induced us to undertake the journey. I took +the following bearings by compass. Oxley's Table Land bore N. 40 E. +distant forty-five miles; small and distant hill due E.; conical peak +seen from Oxley's Table Land S. 60 E., very distant; long ridge of high +land, S.E., distant thirty-five miles; high land, S. 30 E., distant +thirty miles; long range, S. 25 W. + +To the westward, as a medium point, the horizon was unbroken, and the +eye wandered over an apparently endless succession of wood and plain. A +brighter green than usual marked the course of the mountain torrents in +several places, but there was no glittering light among the trees, no +smoke to betray a water hole, or to tell that a single inhabitant was +traversing the extensive region we were overlooking. We were obliged to +return to the plain on which we had breakfasted, and to sleep upon it. + +D'URBAN'S GROUP. + +D'Urban's Group is of compact sandstone formation. Its extreme length +is from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and cannot be more than from seven to nine +miles, whilst its breadth is from two to four. The central space forms +a large basin, in which there are stunted pines and eucalyptus scrub, +amid huge fragments of rocks. It rises like an island from the midst of +the ocean, and as I looked upon it from the plains below, I could +without any great stretch of the imagination, picture to myself that it +really was such. Bold and precipitous, it only wanted the sea to lave +its base; and I cannot but think that such must at no very remote +period have been the case, and that the immense flat we had been +traversing, is of comparatively recent formation. + +We reached the camp on the 28th of the month, by nearly the same route; +and were happy to find that, after the few days' rest they had enjoyed, +there was a considerable improvement in the animals. + +Our experience of the nature of the country to the southward, and the +westward, was such as to deter us from risking anything, by taking such +a direction as was most agreeable to our views. Nothing remained to us +but to follow the creek, or to retreat; and as we could only be induced +to adopt the last measure when every other expedient should have +failed, we determined on pursuing our original plan, of tracing New +Year's Creek as far as practicable. + +DESCRIPTION OF OXLEY'S TABLE LAND. + +Oxley's Table Land is situated in lat. 29 degrees 57 minutes 30 +seconds, and in E. long. 145 degrees 43 minutes 30 seconds, the mean +variation being 6.32 easterly. It consists of two hills that appear to +have been rent asunder by some convulsion of nature, since the passage +between them is narrow and their inner faces are equally perpendicular. +The hill which I have named after the late Surveyor-general, is steep +on all sides; but the other gradually declines from the south, and at +length loses itself in a large plain that extends to the north. It is +from four to five miles in length, and is picturesque in appearance, +and lightly wooded. A few cypresses were growing on Oxley's Table Land; +but it had, otherwise, very little timber upon its summit. Both hills +are of sandstone formation, and there are some hollows upon the last +that deserve particular notice. They have the appearance of having been +formed by eddies of water, being deeper in the centre than at any other +part, and contain fragments and slabs of sandstone of various size and +breadth, without a particle of soil or of sand between them. It is to +be observed that the edges of these slabs, which were perfect +parallelograms, were unbroken, and that they were as clean as if they +had only just been turned out of the hand of the mason. We counted +thirteen of these hollows in one spot about twenty-five feet in +diameter, but they are without doubt of periodical formation, since a +single hollow was observed lower than the summit of the hill upon its +south extremity, that had evidently long been exposed to the action of +the atmosphere, and had a general coating of moss over it. + +CONTINUE THE JOURNEY; DOWN NEW YEAR'S CREEK. + +We left Oxley's Table Land on the morning of the 31st of January, +pursuing a northern course through the brush and across a large plain, +moving parallel to the smaller hill, and keeping it upon our left. The +soil upon this plain differed in character from that on the plains to +the eastward, and was much freer from sand. We stopped to dine at a +spot, whence Oxley's Table Land bore by compass, S. by W., distant +about twelve miles. Continuing our journey, at 2 p.m. we cleared the +plain, and entered a tract covered with the polygonum junceum, on a +soil evidently the deposit of floods. Box-trees were thinly scattered +over it, and among the polygonum, the crested pigeons were numerous. +These general appearances, together with a dip of country to the +N.N.W., made us conclude that we were approaching the creek, and we +accordingly intersected it on a N.N.E. course, at about three miles' +distance from where we had dined. It had, however, undergone so +complete a change, and had increased so much in size and in the height +of its banks, that we were at a loss to recognize it. Still, with all +these favourable symptoms, there was not a drop of water in it. But +small shells lay in heaps in its bed, or were abundantly scattered over +it; and we remarked that they differed from those on the plains of the +Macquarie. A circumstance that surprised us much, was the re-appearance +of the flooded-gum upon its banks, and that too of a large size. We had +not seen any to the westward of the marshes, and we were, consequently, +led to indulge in more sanguine expectation as to our ultimate success +than we had ever ventured to do before. + +The party crossed to the right bank of the creek, and then moved in a +westerly direction along it in search of water. A brush extended to our +right, and some broken stony ground, rather elevated, was visible, to +which Mr. Hume rode; nor did he join me again until after I had halted +the party for the night. + +DISTRESSED FOR WATER. + +My search for water had been unsuccessful, and the sun had set, when I +came upon a broad part of the creek that appeared very favourable for +an encampment, as it was encompassed by high banks, and would afford +the men a greater facility of watching the cattle, that I knew would +stray away if they could. + +My anxiety for them led me to wander down the bed of the creek, when, +to my joy, I found a pond of water within a hundred yards of the tents. +It is impossible for me to describe the relief I felt at this success, +or the gladness it spread among the men. Mr. Hume joined me at dusk, +and informed me that he had made a circuit, and had struck upon the +creek about three miles below us but that, in tracing it up, he had not +found a drop of water until he came to the pond near which we had so +providentially encamped. On the following morning, we held a westerly +course over an open country for about eight miles and a half. The +prevailing timber appeared to be a species of eucalypti, with rough +bark, of small size, and evidently languishing from the want of +moisture. The soil over which we travelled was far from bad, but there +was a total absence of water upon it. At 6 p.m. Oxley's Table Land was +distant from us about fifteen miles, bearing S. 20 E. by compass. + +We had not touched upon the creek from the time we left it in the +morning, having wandered from it in a northerly direction, along a +native path that we intersected, and that seemed to have been recently +trodden, since footsteps were fresh upon it. At sunset, we crossed a +broad dry creek that puzzled us extremely, and were shortly afterwards +obliged to stop for the night upon a plain beyond it. We had, during +the afternoon, bent down to the S.W. in hopes that we should again have +struck upon New Year's Creek; and, under an impression that we could +not be far from it, Mr. Hume and I walked across the plain, to +ascertain if it was sufficiently near to be of any service to us. We +came upon a creek, but could not decide whether it was the one for +which we had been searching, or another. + +Its bed was so perfectly even that it was impossible to say to what +point it flowed, more especially as all remains of debris had mouldered +away. It was, however, extremely broad, and evidently, at times, held a +furious torrent. In the centre of it, at one of the angles, we +discovered a pole erected, and at first thought, from the manner in +which it was propped up, that some unfortunate European must have +placed it there as a mark to tell of his wanderings, but we afterwards +concluded that it might be some superstitious rite of the natives, in +consequence of the untowardness of the season, as it seemed almost +inconceivable that an European could have wandered to such a distance +from the located districts in safety. + +REACH A LARGE RIVER. + +The creek had flooded-gum growing upon its banks, and, on places +apparently subject to flood, a number of tall straight saplings were +observed by us. We returned to the camp, after a vain search for water, +and were really at a loss what direction next to pursue. The men kept +the cattle pretty well together, and, as we were not delayed by any +preparations for breakfast, they were saddled and loaded at an early +hour. The circumstance of there having been natives in the +neighbourhood, of whom we had seen so few traces of late, assured me +that water was at hand, but in what direction it was impossible to +guess. As the path we had observed was leading northerly, we took up +that course, and had not proceeded more than a mile upon it, when we +suddenly found ourselves on the banks of a noble river. Such it might +in truth be called, where water was scarcely to be found. The party +drew up upon a bank that was from forty to forty-five feet above the +level of the stream. The channel of the river was front seventy to +eighty yards broad, and enclosed an unbroken sheet of water, evidently +very deep, and literally covered with pelicans and other wild fowl. Our +surprise and delight may better be imagined than described. Our +difficulties seemed to be at an end, for here was a river that promised +to reward all our exertions, and which appeared every moment to +increase in importance to our imagination. Coming from the N.E., and +flowing to the S.W., it had a capacity of channel that proved that we +were as far from its source as from its termination. The paths of the +natives on either side of it were like well trodden roads; and the +trees that overhung it were of beautiful and gigantic growth. + +DISAPPOINTMENT ON FINDING THE RIVER SALT. + +Its banks were too precipitous to allow of our watering the cattle, but +the men eagerly descended to quench their thirst, which a powerful sun +had contributed to increase; nor shall I ever forget the cry of +amazement that followed their doing so, or the looks of terror and +disappointment with which they called out to inform me that the water +was so salt as to be unfit to drink! This was, indeed, too true: on +tasting it, I found it extremely nauseous, and strongly impregnated +with salt, being apparently a mixture of sea and fresh water. Whence +this arose, whether from local causes, or from a communication with +some inland sea, I knew not, but the discovery was certainly a blow for +which I was not prepared. Our hopes were annihilated at the moment of +their apparent realization. The cup of joy was dashed out of our hands +before we had time to raise it to our lips. Notwithstanding this +disappointment, we proceeded down the river, and halted at about five +miles, being influenced by the goodness of the feed to provide for the +cattle as well as circumstances would permit. They would not drink of +the river water, but stood covered in it for many hours, having their +noses alone exposed above the stream. Their condition gave me great +uneasiness. It was evident they could not long hold out under their +excessive thirst, and unless we should procure some fresh water, it +would impossible for us to continue our journey. On a closer +examination, the river appeared to me much below its ordinary level, +and its current was scarcely perceptible. We placed sticks to ascertain +if there was a rise or fall of tide, but could arrive at no +satisfactory conclusion, although there was undoubtedly a current in +it. Yet, as I stood upon its banks at sunset, when not a breath of air +existed to break the stillness of the waters below me, and saw their +surface kept in constant agitation by the leaping of fish, I doubted +whether the river could supply itself so abundantly, and the rather +imagined, that it owed such abundance, which the pelicans seemed to +indicate was constant, to some mediterranean sea or other. Where, +however, were the human inhabitants of this distant and singular +region? The signs of a numerous population were around us, but we had +not seen even a solitary wanderer. The water of the river was not, by +any means, so salt as that of the ocean, but its taste was precisely +similar. Could it be that its unnatural state had driven its +inhabitants from its banks? + +One would have imagined that our perplexities would have been +sufficient for one day, but ere night closed, they increased upon us, +although our anxiety, with regard to the cattle, was happily removed. +Mr. Hume with his usual perseverance, walked out when the camp was +formed; and, at a little distance from it, ascended a ridge of pure +sand, crowned with cypresses. From this, he descended to the westward, +and, at length, struck upon the river, where a reef of rocks creased +its channel, and formed a dry passage from one side to the other; but +the bend, which the river must have taken, appeared to him so singular, +that he doubted whether it was the same beside which we had been +travelling during the day. Curiosity led him to cross it, when he found +a small pond of fresh water on a tongue of land, and, immediately +afterwards, returned to acquaint me with the welcome tidings. It was +too late to move, but we had, at least, the prospect of a comfortable +breakfast in the morning. + +JUNCTION OF NEW YEAR'S CREEK. + +In consequence of the doubts that hung upon Mr. Hume's mind, as to the +course of the river, we arranged that the animals should precede us to +the fresh water; and that we should keep close in upon the stream, to +ascertain that point. After traversing a deep bight, we arrived nearly +as soon as the party, at the appointed rendezvous. The rocks composing +the channel of the river at the crossing place, were of indurated clay. +In the course of an hour, the animals appearing quite refreshed, we +proceeded on our journey, and at about four miles crossed New Year's +Creek, at its junction with the salt river. We passed several parts of +the main channel that were perfectly dry, and were altogether at a loss +to account for the current we undoubtedly had observed in the river +when we first came upon it. At midday D'Urban's Group bore S. 65 E. +distant about 32 miles. We made a little westing in the afternoon. The +river continued to maintain its character and appearance, its lofty +banks, and its long still reaches: while, however, the blue-gum trees +upon its banks were of magnificent size, the soil had but little +vegetation upon it, although an alluvial deposit. + +We passed over vast spaces covered with the polygonum junceum, that +bore all the appearance of the flooded tracks in the neighbourhood of +the marshes, and on which the travelling was equally distressing to the +animals. Indeed, it had been sufficiently evident to us that the waters +of this river were not always confined to its channel, capacious as it +was, but that they inundated a belt of barren land, that varied in +width from a quarter of a mile to a mile, when they were checked by an +outer embankment that prevented them from spreading generally over the +country, and upon the neighbouring plains. At our halting place, the +cattle drank sparingly of the water, but it acted as a violent +purgative both on them and the men who partook of it. + +NATIVE VILLAGE. + +On the 5th, the river led us to the southward and westward. Early in +the day, we passed a group of seventy huts, capable of holding from +twelve to fifteen men each. They appeared to be permanent habitations, +and all of them fronted the same point of the compass. In searching +amongst them we observed two beautifully made nets, of about ninety +yards in length. The one had much larger meshes than the other, and +was, most probably, intended to take kangaroos; but the other was +evidently a fishing net. + +In one hut, the floor of which was swept with particular care, a number +of white balls, as of pulverised shells or lime, had been +deposited--the use of which we could not divine. A trench was formed +round the hut to prevent the rain from running under it, and the whole +was arranged with more than ordinary attention. + +TERROR OF THE NATIVES. + +We had not proceeded very far when we came suddenly upon the tribe to +which this village, as it might be called, belonged. + +In breaking through some brush to an open space that was bounded on one +side by the river, we observed three or four natives, seated on a bank +at a considerable distance from us; and directly in the line on which +we were moving. The nature of the ground so completely favoured our +approach, that they did not become aware of it until we were within a +few yards of them, and had ascended a little ridge, which, as we +afterwards discovered, ended in an abrupt precipice upon the river, not +more than thirty yards to our right. The crack of the drayman's whip +was the first thing that aroused their attention. They gazed upon us +for a moment, and then started up and assumed an attitude of horror and +amazement; their terror apparently increasing upon them. We stood +perfectly immovable, until at length they gave a fearful yell, and +darted out of sight. + +THEY FIRE THE BUSH. + +Their cry brought about a dozen more natives from the river, whom we +had not before observed, but who now ran after their comrades with +surprising activity, and without once venturing to look behind them. As +our position was a good one, we determined to remain upon it, until we +should ascertain the number and disposition of the natives. We had not +been long stationary, when we heard a crackling noise in the distance, +and it soon became evident that the bush had been fired. It was, +however, impossible that we could receive any injury on the narrow +ridge upon which we stood, so that we waited very patiently to see the +end of this affair. + +REMARKS ON THE NATIVES; DISEASE AMONG THEM. + +In a short time the fire approached pretty near to us, and dense +columns of smoke rose into the air over our heads. One of the natives, +who had been on the bank, now came out of the bush, exactly from the +spot into which he had retreated. He advanced a few paces towards us, +and bending his body so that his hands rested on his knees, he fixed +his gaze upon us for some time; but, seeing that we remained immovable, +he began to throw himself into the most extravagant attitudes, shaking +his foot from time to time. When he found that all his violence had no +effect, he turned his rear to us in a most laughable manner, and +absolutely groaned in spirit when he found that this last insult failed +of success. + +He stood perplexed and not knowing what next to do, which gave Mr. Hume +an opportunity to call out to him, and with considerable address he at +length got the savage to approach close up to him; Mr. Hume himself +having advanced a short distance from the animals in the first +instance. As soon as I thought the savage had sufficiently recovered +from his alarm, I went up to him with a tomahawk, the use of which he +immediately guessed. We now observed that the natives who had fled from +the river, had been employed in setting a net. They had placed it in a +semicircle, with either end to the shore, and rude pieces of wood were +attached to it to keep the upper part perpendicular. It was in fact a +sein, only that the materials, with the exception of the net-work, were +simpler and rougher than cork or lead--for which last, we afterwards +discovered stones had been substituted. + +We had on this occasion a remarkable instance of the docility of the +natives of the interior, or of the power they have of subduing their +apprehensions; manifesting the opposite extremes of fear and +confidence. These men whom we had thus surprised, and who, no doubt, +imagined that we were about to destroy them, having apparently never +seen nor heard of white men before, must have taken us for something +preternatural; yet from the extremity of fear that had prompted them to +set their woods in flames, they in a brief space so completely subdued +those fears as to approach the very beings who had so strongly excited +their alarm. The savage who had been the principal actor in the scene, +was an elderly man, rather descending to the vale of years than what +might be strictly called aged. I know not how it was, but I regarded +him with peculiar interest. Mr. Hume's manners had in a great measure +contributed to allay his evident agitation; but, from the moment I +approached him, I thought there was a shade of anxiety upon his brow, +and an expression of sorrow over his features, the cause of which did +not originate with us. I could see in a moment, that his bosom was full +even to bursting, and he seemed to claim at once our sympathy and our +protection, although we were ignorant of that which oppressed him. We +had not long been seated together, when some of his tribe mustered +sufficient courage to join him. Both Mr. Hume and I were desirous of +seeing the net drawn, but the old man raised some objection, by +pointing to the heavens and towards the sun. After a little more +solicitation, however, he gave a whistle, and, four or five natives +having obeyed the summons, he directed them to draw the net, but they +were unfortunate, and our wish to ascertain the kind of fish contained +in the river was disappointed. As his tribe gathered round him, the old +chief threw a melancholy glance upon them, and endeavoured, as much as +he could, to explain the cause of that affliction which, as I had +rightly judged, weighed heavily upon him. It appeared, then, that a +violent cutaneous disease raged throughout the tribe, that was sweeping +them off in great numbers. He called several young men to Mr. Hume and +myself, who had been attacked by this singular malady. Nothing could +exceed the anxiety of his explanations, or the mild and soothing tone +in which he addressed his people, and it really pained me that I could +not assist him in his distress. We now discovered the use to which the +conical substance that had been deposited with such unusual care in one +of the huts, was applied. There were few of the natives present who +were not more or less marked with it, and it was no doubt, indicative +of mourning. + +DEPARTURE OF THE NATIVES. + +Some of the men, however, were painted with red and yellow ochre, with +which it was evident to me they had besmeared themselves since our +appearance, most likely in preparing for the combat in which they +fancied they would be engaged. We distributed such presents as we had +to those around us, and when we pursued our journey, the majority +accompanied us, nor did they wholly leave us until we had passed the +place to which their women had retired. They might have left us when +they pleased, for we intended them no harm; as it was, however, they +struck into the brushes to join their families, and we pushed on to +make up for lost time. + +The travelling near the river had been so bad, not only in consequence +of the nature of the soil and brush, but from the numerous gullies that +had been formed by torrents, as they poured into its channel after +heavy rains and floods, that it was thought advisable to keep at a +greater distance from it. We turned away, therefore, to the plains, and +found them of much firmer surface. They partook, however, of the same +general character as the plains we had traversed more to the eastward. +Their soil was a light sandy loam, and the same succulent plants still +continued to prevail upon them, which we have already noticed as +existing upon the other plains. Both emus and kangaroos were seen, +though not in any considerable numbers, but our dogs were not in a +condition to run, and were all but killed by the extreme heat of the +weather. We had fallen on a small pool of water shortly after we +started in the morning, but we could do no more than refresh ourselves +and the animals at it. In the afternoon, we again turned towards the +river, and found it unaltered. Its water was still salt, and from the +increased number of wild fowl and pelicans upon it, as well as from the +general flatness of the country, I certainly thought we were rapidly +approaching some inland sea. It was, however, uncertain how long we +should be enabled to continue on the river. The animals were all of +them extremely weak, and every day increased the probable difficulty of +our return. There was not the least appearance of a break-up of the +drought, the heavens were without a cloud, and the atmosphere was so +clear that the outline of the moon could be distinctly seen, although +she was far in her wane. + +BRINE SPRINGS IN THE RIVER. + +On the 6th, we journeyed again through a barren scrub, although on +firmer ground, and passed numerous groups of huts. At about eight miles +from our last encampment, we came upon the river, where its banks were +of considerable height. In riding along them, Mr. Hume thought he +observed a current running, and he called to inform me of the +circumstance. On a closer examination, we discovered some springs in +the very bed of the river, from which a considerable stream was +gushing, and from the incrustation around them, we had no difficulty in +guessing at their nature: in fact, they were brine springs, and I +collected a quantity of salt from the brink of them. + +DISTRESS FOR WANT OF FRESH WATER. + +After such a discovery, we could not hope to keep our position. No +doubt the current we had observed on first reaching the river, was +caused by springs that had either escaped our notice or were under +water. Here was at length a local cause for its saltness that destroyed +at once the anticipation and hope of our being near its termination, +and, consequently, the ardour with which we should have pressed on to +decide so interesting a point. + +Our retreat would have been a measure of absolute necessity ere this, +had we not found occasional supplies of fresh water, the last pond of +which was now about eighteen miles behind us. + +OUR COURSE ARRESTED. + +Whether we should again find any, was a doubtful question, and I +hesitated to run the risk. The animals were already, from bad food, and +from the effects of the river water, so weak, that they could scarcely +carry their loads, and I was aware, if any of the bullocks once fell, +he would never rise again. Under such circumstances, I thought it +better to halt the party at the edge of the scrub, though the feed was +poor, and the water not drinkable. Our situation required most serious +consideration. It was necessary that we should move either backward or +forward in the morning. Yet we could not adopt either measure with +satisfaction to ourselves, under such unfavorable circumstances. I +determined to relieve my own mind by getting the animals into a place +of safety, as soon as possible; and, as the only effectual way of doing +this was to retire upon the nearest fresh water, I resolved at once to +do so. The party turned back on the morning of the 6th; nor do I think +the cattle would ever have reached their destination had we not found a +few buckets of rain water in the cleft of a rock, to refresh them. Thus +it will appear that under our most trying circumstances, we received +aid from Providence, and that the bounty of Heaven was extended towards +us, when we had least reason to expect it. + +Notwithstanding we had been thus forced to a partial retreat, both Mr. +Hume and myself were unwilling to quit the pursuit of the river, in so +unsatisfactory a manner. There was no difference in the appearance of +the country to the westward of it; but a seeming interminable flat +stretched away in that direction. A journey across it was not likely, +therefore, to be attended with any favorable results, since it was +improbable that any other leading feature was within our reach. I +proposed, therefore, to take the most serviceable of the horses with me +down the river, that, in the event of our finding fresh water, we might +again push forward. Mr. Hume requesting to be permitted to accompany +me, it was arranged that we should start on the 8th, thereby giving the +animals a day's rest. We had not seen any natives since our parting +with the chief horde; and as we were stationed at some little distance +from the river, I hoped that they would not visit the camp during my +absence. This was the only circumstance that gave me uneasiness, but +the men had generally been behaving so well that I relied a great deal +upon them. + +EXTRAORDINARY SOUND. + +About 3 p.m. on the 7th, Mr. Hume and I were occupied tracing the chart +upon the ground. The day had been remarkably fine, not a cloud was +there in the heavens, nor a breath of air to be felt. On a sudden we +heard what seemed to be the report of a gun fired at the distance of +between five and six miles. It was not the hollow sound of an earthly +explosion, or the sharp cracking noise of falling timber, but in every +way resembled a discharge of a heavy piece of ordnance. On this all +were agreed, but no one was certain whence the sound proceeded. Both +Mr. Hume and myself had been too attentive to our occupation to form a +satisfactory opinion; but we both thought it came from the N.W. I sent +one of the men immediately up a tree, but he could observe nothing +unusual. The country around him appeared to be equally flat on all +sides, and to be thickly wooded: whatever occasioned the report, it +made a strong impression on all of us; and to this day, the singularity +of such a sound, in such a situation, is a matter of mystery to me. + +FURTHER ATTEMPT TO EXPLORE THE RIVER. + +On the 8th, we commenced our journey down the river, accompanied by two +men, and a pack-horse, carrying our provisions on one side and a bucket +of water on the other. Keeping in general near the stream, but making +occasional turns into the plains, we got to the brush from which the +party had turned back, about 3 p.m. Passing through, we crossed a small +plain, of better soil and vegetation than usual; but it soon gave place +to the sandy loam of the interior; nor did we observe any material +alteration, either in the country or the river, as we rode along. The +flooded-gum trees on the banks of the latter, were of beautiful growth, +but in the brushes dividing the plains, box and other eucalypti, with +cypresses and many minor shrubs, prevailed. We slept on the river side, +and calculated our distance from the camp at about twenty-six or +twenty-eight miles. + +The horses would not drink the river water, so that we were obliged to +give them a pint each from our own supply. On the following morning we +continued our journey. The country was generally open to the eastward, +and we had fine views of D'Urban's Group, distant from twenty to +twenty-five miles. About noon, turning towards the river to rest, both +ourselves and the horses, we passed through brush land for about a mile +and a half. When we came upon its banks, we found them composed of a +red loam with sandy superficies. We had, in the course of the day, +crossed several creeks, but in none of them could we find water, +although their channels were of great depth. + +The day had been extremely warm, and from shaking in the barrel our +supply of water had diminished to a little more than a pint; it +consequently became a matter of serious consideration, how far it would +be prudent to proceed farther; for, however capable we were of bearing +additional fatigue, it was evident our animals would soon fail, since +they trembled exceedingly, and had the look of total exhaustion. We +calculated that we were forty miles from the camp, in a S.W. direction, +a fearful distance under our circumstances, since we could not hope to +obtain relief for two days. Independently however, of the state of the +animals, our spirits were damped by the nature of the country, and the +change which had taken place on the soil, upon which it was impossible +that water could rest; while the general appearance of the interior +showed how much it had suffered from drought. On the other hand, +although the waters of the river had become worse to the taste, the +river itself had increased in size, and stretched away to the westward, +with all the uniformity of a magnificent canal, and gave every promise +of increasing importance; while the pelicans were in such numbers upon +it as to be quite dazzling to the eye. Considering, however, that +perseverance would only involve us in inextricable difficulties, and +that it would also be useless to risk the horses, since we had gained a +distance to which the bullocks could not have been brought, I intimated +my intention of giving up the further pursuit of the river, though it +was with extreme reluctance that I did so. + +CALLED IT THE "DARLING". + +As soon as we had bathed and finished our scanty meal, I took the +bearings of D'Urban's Group, and found them to be S. 58 E. about +thirty-three miles distant; and as we mounted our horses, I named the +river the "Darling," as a lasting memorial of the respect I bear the +governor. + +ABANDON THE ATTEMPT. + +I should be doing injustice to Mr. Hume and my men, if I did not +express my conviction that they were extremely unwilling to yield to +circumstances, and that, had I determined on continuing the journey, +they would have followed me with cheerfulness, whatever the +consequences might have been. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Intercourse with the natives--Their appearance and condition--Remarks +on the Salt or Darling River--Appearance of the marshes on our +return--Alarm for safety of the provision party--Return to Mount +Harris--Miserable condition of the natives--Circumstances attending the +slaughter of two Irish runaways--Bend our course towards the +Castlereagh--Wallis's Ponds--Find the famished natives feeding on +gum--Channel of the Castlereagh--Character of the country in its +vicinity--Another tribe of natives--Amicable intercourse with +them--Morrisset's chain of Ponds--Again reach the Darling River ninety +miles higher up than where we first struck upon it. + + +We kept near the river as we journeyed homewards, and in striking +across a plain, found an isolated rock of quartz and jasper, just +showing itself partially above the surface of the ground. + +We were anxious to get to the small plain I have mentioned, if +possible, for the sake of the animals, and pushed on rapidly for it. +About 4 p.m. we had reached our sleeping place of the previous evening, +and being overpowered by thirst, we stopped in hopes that by making our +tea strong we might destroy, in some measure, the nauseous taste of the +water. The horses were spancelled and a fire lit. Whilst we were +sitting patiently for the boiling of the tins, Mr. Hume observed at a +considerable distance above us, a large body of natives under some gum +trees. They were not near enough for us to observe them distinctly, but +it was evident that they were watching our motions. We did not take any +notice of them for some time, but at last I thought it better to call +out to them, and accordingly requested Mr. Hume to do so. In a moment +the whole of them ran forward and dashed into the river, having been on +the opposite side, with an uproar I had never witnessed on any former +occasion. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +Mr. Hume thought they intended an attack, and the horses had taken +fright and galloped away. I determined, therefore, to fire at once upon +them if they pressed up the bank on which we were posted. Mr. Hume went +with me to the crest of it, and we rather angrily beckoned to the +foremost of the natives to stop. They mistook our meaning, but laid all +their spears in a heap as they came up. We then sat down on the bank +and they immediately did the same; nor did they stir until we beckoned +to them after the horses had been secured. + +As they conducted themselves so inoffensively, we gave them everything +we had to spare. My gun seemed to excite their curiosity, as they had +seen Mr. Hume shoot a cockatoo with it; they must consequently have +been close to us for the greater part of the day, as the bird was +killed in the morning. It was of a species new to me, being smaller +than the common white cockatoo, and having a large scarlet-and-yellow +instead of a pine-yellow top-knot. + +Having stayed about half an hour with them, we remounted our horses, +and struck away from the river into the plains, while the natives went +up its banks to join their hordes. Those whom we saw were about +twenty-seven in number and the most of them were strangers. + +DISTRESS FROM THIRST. + +It was some time after sunset before we reached the little plain on +which we had arranged to sleep, and when we dismounted we were in a +truly pitiable state. I had been unable to refrain from drinking +copiously at the river, and now became extremely sick. Mr. Hume had +been scarcely more prudent than myself, but on him the water had a +contrary effect, as well as upon Hopkinson. The tinker was the only man +fit for duty, and it was well for us that such was the case, as the +horses made frequent attempts to stray, and would have left us in a +pretty plight had they succeeded. We reached the camp on the following +day a little before sunset, nor was I more rejoiced to dismount from my +wearied horse than to learn that everything in the camp had been +regular during our absence and that the men had kept on the best terms +with the natives who had paid them frequent visits. + +The bullocks had improved, but were still extremely weak, and as the +horses we had employed on the last journey required a day or two's +rest, it was arranged that we should not break up our camp until the +12th, beyond which period we could not stop, in consequence of the low +state of our salt provisions, we having barely sufficient to last to +Mount Harris, at the rate of two pounds per week. + +REMARKS ON THE NATIVES. + +The morning after we returned from our excursion, a large party of +natives, about seventy in number, visited the camp. On this occasion, +the women and children passed behind the tents, but did not venture to +stop. Most of the men had spears, and were unusually inquisitive and +forward. Several of them carried fire-sticks under the influence of the +disease I have already noticed, whilst others were remarked to have +violent cutaneous eruptions all over the body. We were pretty well on +the alert; notwithstanding which, every minor article was seized with a +quickness that would have done credit to a most finished juggler. One +of the natives thus picked up my comb and toothbrush, but as he did not +attempt to conceal them, they were fortunately recovered. After staying +with us a short time the men followed the women. They appeared to be +strangers who had come from a distance. + +CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. + +The natives of the Darling are a clean-limbed, well-conditioned race, +generally speaking. They seemingly occupy permanent huts, but their +tribe did not bear any proportion to the size or number of their +habitations. It was evident their population had been thinned. The +customs of these distant tribes, as far as we could judge, were similar +to those of the mountain blacks, and they are essentially the same +people, although their language differs. They lacerate their bodies, +but do not extract the front teeth. We saw but few cloaks among them, +since the opossum does not inhabit the interior. Those that were +noticed, were made of the red kangaroo skin. In appearance, these men +are stouter in the bust than at the lower extremities; they have broad +noses, sunken eyes, overhanging eyebrows, and thick lips. The men are +much better looking than the women. Both go perfectly naked, if I +except the former, who wear nets over the loins and across the +forehead, and bones through the cartilages of the nose. Their chief +food is fish, of which they have great supplies in the river; still +they have their seasons for hunting their emus and kangaroos. The nets +they use for this purpose, as well as for fishing, are of great length, +and are made upon large frames. These people do not appear to have +warlike habits nor do they take any pride in their arms, which differ +little from those used by the inland tribes, and are assimilated to +them as far as the materials will allow. One powerful man, however, had +a regular trident, for which Mr. Hume offered many things without +success. He plainly intimated to us that he had a use for it, but +whether against an enemy or to secure prey, we could not understand. I +was most anxious to have ascertained if any religious ceremonies +obtained among them, but the difficulty of making them comprehend our +meaning was insurmountable; and to the same cause may be attributed the +circumstance of my being unable to collect any satisfactory vocabulary +of their language. They evinced a strange perversity, or obstinacy +rather, in repeating words, although it was evident that they knew they +were meant as questions. The pole we observed in the creek, on the +evening previously to our making the Darling, was not the only one that +fell under our notice; our impression therefore, that they were fixed +by the natives to propitiate some deity, was confirmed. It would appear +that the white pigment was an indication of mourning. Whether these +people have an idea of a superintending Providence I doubt, but they +evidently dread evil agency. On the whole I should say they are a +people, at present, at the very bottom of the scale of humanity. + +REMARKS ON THE DARLING RIVER. + +We struck the Darling River in lat. 29 degrees 37 minutes S. and in E. +long. 145 degrees 33 minutes, and traced it down for about sixty-six +miles in a direct line to the S.W. If I might hazard an opinion from +appearance, to whatever part of the interior it leads, its source must +be far to the N.E. or N. The capacity of its channel, and the terrific +floods that must sometimes rage in it, would argue that it is +influenced by tropical rains, which alone would cause such floods. It +is likely that it seldom arrives at so reduced a state as that in which +we found it, and that, generally speaking, it has a sufficient depth of +water for the purposes of inland navigation: in such case its future +importance cannot be questioned, since it most probably receives the +chief streams falling westerly from the coast ranges. But, with every +anticipation of the benefit that may at some time or other be derived +from this remarkable and central stream, it is incumbent on me to state +that the country, through which it flows, holds out but little prospect +of advantage. Certainly the portion we know of it, is far from +encouraging. The extent of alluvial soil, between the inner and outer +banks of the river, is extremely limited, and, instead of being covered +with sward, is in most places over-run by the polygonum. Beyond this +the plains of the interior stretch away, whose character and soil must +change, ere they can be available to any good purpose. But there is a +singular want of vegetable decay in the interior of New Holland, and +that powerfully argues its recent origin. + +REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY. + +There is no life upon its surface, if I may so express myself; but the +stillness of death reigns in its brushes, and over its plains. It +cannot, however, be doubted that we visited the interior during a most +unfavorable season. Probably in ordinary ones it wears a different +appearance, but its deserts are of great extent, and its productions +are of little value. + +Agreeably to our arrangements, we broke up our camp at an early hour on +the morning of the 12th, and proceeded up the river to the junction of +New Year's Creek. We then struck away in an easterly direction from it, +detaching a man to trace the creek up, lest we should pass any water; +and we should certainly have been without it had we not taken this +precaution. + +On the following day, we again passed to the eastward, through an open +country, having picturesque views of Oxley's Table Land. We crossed our +track about noon, and struck on the creek at about five miles beyond +it, and we were fortunate enough to procure both water and grass. The +timber upon the plains, between us and the Darling, we found to be a +rough gum, but box prevailed in the neighbourhood of the creek at this +part of it. + +On the 14th, we changed our direction more to the southward, but made a +short journey, in consequence of being obliged to make some slight +repairs on the boat carriage. + +REGAIN OUR OLD ROUTE. + +On the 15th, we kept an E.S.E. course, and, crossing the creek at an +early hour, got upon our old track, which we kept. We had the lateral +ridge of the Pink Hills upon our right, and travelled through a good +deal of brush. Four or five natives joined us, and two followed us to +the end of our day's journey. In the course of the evening, they +endeavoured to pilfer whatever was in their reach, but were detected +putting a tin into a bush, and soon took to their heels. This was the +first instance we had of open theft among the natives of the interior. + +We passed Mosquito Brush on the 18th, but found the ponds quite dry, we +were, therefore, under the necessity of pushing on, to shorten the next +day's journey, as we could not expect to get water nearer than the +marshes. At noon, on the 19th, we entered the plain, and once more saw +them spreading in dreariness before us. While the party was crossing to +the first channel, I rode to the left, in order to examine the +appearance of the country in the direction of the wood, and as far as I +skirted the reeds had my impressions confirmed as to their partial +extension. I was obliged, however, to join the men without completing +the circuit of the marshes. They had found the first channel dry, and +had passed on to the other, in which, fortunately, a small quantity of +water still remained. It was, however, so shallow as to expose the +backs of the fish in it, and a number of crows had congregated, and +were pecking at them. Wishing to satisfy my mind as to the distance to +which the river extended to the northward, Mr. Hume rode with me on the +following day, to examine the country in that direction, leaving the +men stationary. We found that the reeds gradually decreased in body, +until, at length, they ceased, or gave place to bulrushes. There were +general appearances of inundation, and of the subsidence of waters, but +none that led us to suppose that any channel existed beyond the flooded +lands. + +ALARM FOR THE SAFETY OF THE PROVISION PARTY. + +On our return to the camp, we observed dense masses of smoke rising at +the head of the marshes, and immediately under Mount Foster. This +excited our alarm for the safety of the party we hoped to find at Mount +Harris, and obliged us to make forced marches, to relieve it if +threatened by the natives. + +On the 22nd, we crossed the plains of the Macquarie, and surprised a +numerous tribe on the banks of the river; and the difficulty we found +in getting any of them to approach us, their evident timidity, and the +circumstance of one of them having on a jacket, tended to increase our +apprehensions. When two or three came to us, they intimated that white +men either had been or were under Mount Harris, but we were left in +uncertainty and passed a most anxious night. + +The body of reeds was still on fire; and the light embers were carried +to an amazing distance by the wind, falling like a black-shower around +us. As we knew that the natives never made such extensive +conflagration, unless they had some mischievous object in view, our +apprehension for the safety of Riley, with his supplies, was increased. + +At the earliest dawn, we pushed for the hill. In passing that part of +the meadows under Mount Foster, we observed that the grass had also +been consumed, and we scarcely recognized the ground from its altered +appearance. As we approached Mount Harris, we saw recent traces of +cattle, but none were visible on the plains. Under the hill, however, +we could distinctly see that a hut of some kind had been erected, and +it is impossible for me to describe the relief we felt when a soldier +came forward to reconnoitre us. I could no longer doubt the safety of +the party, and this was confirmed by the rest of the men turning out to +welcome us. It appeared that our suspicions with regard to the natives +had not been without foundation, since they attempted to surprise the +camp, and it was supposed the firing of the marshes was done with a +view to collect the distant tribes, to make a second attack; so that +our arrival was most opportune. + +The party I found awaiting our arrival at Mount Harris consisted of one +soldier, Riley, who had the charge of the supplies, and a drayman. They +had found the paper I had fixed against the tree, and also the letters +I had hid, and had forwarded them to Sydney, by another soldier and a +prisoner; which had weakened their party a good deal. Riley informed +me, that he had been between a month and three weeks at the station, +and that knowing our provisions must have run short he had expected us +much earlier than we had made our appearance. + +My dispatches stated, that additional supplies had been forwarded for +my use, together with horses and bullocks, in the event of my requiring +them. On examination, the former were found to be in excellent order; +and, as it would take some time to carry any changes I might +contemplate, or find it necessary to make, into effect, I determined to +give the men who had been with me a week's rest. + +ENCAMP AT MOUNT HARRIS. + +The camp was made snug; and as the weather had become much cooler I +thought it a good opportunity to slaughter one of the bullocks, in +order to guard against any bad effects of our having been living for +some weeks exclusively on salt provisions. I was also induced to this +measure, from a wish to preserve my supplies as much as possible. + +These matters having been arranged, I had a temporary awning erected +near the river, and was for three or four days busily employed writing +an account of our journey for the Governor's information. + +Having closed my despatches, and answered the numerous friendly letters +I had received, my attention was next turned to the changes that had +taken place at Mount Harris during our absence. The Macquarie, I found, +had wholly ceased to flow, and now consisted of a chain of ponds. Such +of the minor vegetation as had escaped the fires of the natives, had +perished under the extreme heat of the season. The acacia pendula stood +leafless upon the plains, and the polygonum junceum appeared to be the +only plant that had withstood the effects of the drought. Yet, +notwithstanding this general depression of the vegetable kingdom, the +animals that had been brought from Wellington Valley were in the best +condition, and were, indeed, too fat for effective labour; it might, +therefore, be reasonably presumed, that herbage affording such +nourishment in so unfavourable a season, would be of the richest +quality, if fresh and vigorous under the influence of seasonable, and +not excessive, rains. + +FIRING OF THE GREAT MARSHES. + +The appearance of the country was, however, truly melancholy; there was +not a flower in bloom, nor a green object to be seen. Whether our +arrival had increased their alarm, is uncertain, but the natives +continued to fire the great marshes, and as the element raged amongst +them, large bodies of smoke rose over the horizon like storm clouds, +and had the effect of giving additional dreariness to the scene. I am +inclined to think that they made these conflagrations to procure food, +by seizing whatsoever might issue from the flames, as snakes, birds, or +other animals; for they had taken every fish in the river, and the low +state of its waters had enabled them to procure an abundance of muscles +from its bed, which they had consumed with their characteristic +improvidence. They were, consequently, in a starving condition, and so +pitiable were their indications of it, that I was induced to feed such +of them as visited the camp, notwithstanding their late misconduct; +being likewise anxious to bring about a good understanding, as the best +means of ensuring the safety of the smaller party when we should +separate, of which I had reason to be doubtful. These people had killed +two white men not long before my arrival among them, and as the +circumstances attending the slaughter are singular, I shall relate them. + +SLAUGHTER OF TWO IRISH RUNAWAYS. + +The parties were two Irish runaways, who thought they could make their +way to Timor. They escaped from Wellington Valley with a fortnight's +provision each, and a couple of dogs, and proceeded down the Macquarie. +About the cataract, they fell in with the Mount Harris tribe, and +remained with them for some days, when they determined on pursuing +their journey. The blacks, however, wanted to get possession of their +dogs, and a resistance on the part of the Europeans brought on a +quarrel. It appears, that before the blacks proceeded to extremities, +they furnished the Irishmen, who were unarmed, with weapons, and then +told them to defend themselves, but whether against equal or inferior +numbers, I am uninformed. One of them soon fell, which the other +observing, he took his knife out, and cut the throats of both the dogs +before the blacks had time to put him to death. He was, however, +sacrificed; and both the men were eaten by the tribe generally. I +questioned several on the subject, but they preserved the most sullen +silence, neither acknowledging nor denying the fact. + +ARBUTHNOT'S RANGE. + +Mr. Hume had been one day on Mount Harris, and while there, had laid +his compass on a large rock, near to which Mr. Oxley's boat had been +burnt. To his surprise, he found the needle affected; and his bearings +were all wrong. I subsequently went up to ascertain the extent of the +error produced, and found it precisely the same as Mr. Hume noticed. +When I placed the compass on the rock, Mount Foster bore from me N. by +W., the true bearing of the one hill from the other being N.N.W. My +placing my notebook under the compass did not alter the effect, nor did +the card move until I raised the instrument a couple of feet above the +stone, when it first became violently agitated, and then settled +correctly; and my bearings of the highest parts of Arbuthnot's Range, +and of its centre, were as follows: + + Mount Exmouth to the N ...... N. 86 E. + Centre....................... N. 85 E. + Vernon's Peak................ N. 89 E. + Distance 70 miles. + +Having finished my reports and letters, it became necessary to consider +the best point on which to move, and to fix a day for our departure +from Mount Harris. It struck me that having found so important a +feature as the Darling River, the Governor would approve my +endeavouring to regain it more to the southward, in order to trace it +down. I, therefore, detached Mr. Hume to survey the country in that +direction, and to ascertain if a descent upon the Bogen district would +be practicable, through which I had been informed a considerable river +forced itself. The report he made on his return was such as to deter me +from that attempt, but he stated that the country for 30 miles from the +Macquarie was well watered, and superior to any he had passed over +during the journey; beyond that distance, it took up the character of +the remote interior, and alternated with plains and brush, the soil +being too sandy to retain water on its surface. He saw some hills from +the extremity of his journey, bearing by compass W.S.W. We consequently +determined to make for the Castlereagh, agreeably to our instructions. +Preparations were made for breaking up the camp, all the various +arrangements in the change of animals were completed, the boat carriage +was exchanged for a dray, and I took Boyle in the place of Norman, +whose timidity in the bush rendered him unfit for service. + +CIRCUIT OF THE GREAT MARSHES. + +There is a small hill on the opposite side of the river, and +immediately facing Mount Harris, and to the S.E. of it there is a small +lagoon, the head of a creek, by means of which its superfluous waters +are carried off. This creek runs parallel to the river for about ten +miles, and enters the marshes at the S.E. angle. This I ascertained one +day in riding to carry on my survey of the southern extremity of the +marshes, and to join my line of route by making the circuit of that +part of them. I found that the river was turned to its northerly course +by a rising ground of forest land, which checks its further progress +westerly. I proceeded round the S.W. angle, and then, taking a +northerly course, got down to the bottom of the first great marsh, thus +completing the circuit of them. I did not return to the camp until +after 10 p.m., having crossed the river at day-light, nor did we +procure any water from the time we left the stream to the moment of our +recrossing it. + +WALLIS'S PONDS. + +Having completed our various arrangements, and closed our letters, we +struck our tents on the morning of the 7th March; we remained, however, +to witness the departure of Riley's party for Wellington Valley, and +then left the Macquarie on an E.N.E. course for Wallis's Ponds, and +made them at about 14 miles. They undoubtedly empty themselves into the +marshes, and are a continuation of that chain of ponds on which I left +the party in Mr. Hume's charge. About a mile from Mount Harris, we +passed a small dry creek, that evidently lays the country under water +in the wet seasons. There was a blue-gum flat to the eastward of it, +which we crossed, and then entered a brush of acacia pendula and box. +The soil upon the plain was an alluvial deposit; that in the brushes +was sandy. From the extremity of the plain, Mount Harris bore, by +compass, S.W. by W.; Mount Foster due west. The scrub through which we +were penetrating, at length became so dense, that we found it +impossible to travel in a direct line through it, and frequent ridges +of cypresses growing closely together, turned us repeatedly from our +course. The country at length became clearer, and we travelled over +open forest of box, casuarina, and cypresses, on a sandy soil; the +first predominating. For about two miles before we made the creek, the +country was not heavily timbered, the acacia pendula succeeding the +larger trees. The ground had a good covering of grass upon it, and +there were few of the salsolaceous plants, so abundant on the western +plains, to be found. The rough-gum abounded near the creek, with a +small tree bearing a hard round nut, and we had the luxury of plenty of +water. + +We remained stationary on the 8th, in hopes that Riley would have met +the soldier who had been sent back to Wellington Valley, and that he +would have forwarded any letters to us, of which he might have been the +bearer. The day, however, passed over without realizing our +expectations; and we started once more for the interior, and cut +ourselves off from all communication with society. + +MORRISSET'S PONDS. + +We made for Morrisset's chain of ponds, and travelled over rich and +extensive plains, divided by plantations of cypress, box, and +casuarina, in the early and latter period of the day. About noon we +entered a dense forest of cypresses, which continued for three miles, +when the cypresses became mixed with casuarina, box, and mountain-gum, +a tree we had not remarked before in so low a situation. We struck upon +the creek after a journey of about 15 miles. It had a sandy bed, and +was extremely tortuous in its course, nor was it until after a +considerable search, that we at length succeeded in finding water, at +which a party of natives were encamped. The moment they saw us, they +fled, and left all their utensils, &c. behind them. Among other things, +we found a number of bark troughs, filled with the gum of the mimosa, +and vast quantities of gum made into cakes upon the ground. From this +it would appear these unfortunate creatures were reduced to the last +extremity, and, being unable to procure any other nourishment, had been +obliged to collect this mucilaginous food. + +The plains we traversed, were of uniform equality of surface. Water +evidently lodges and continues on them long after a fall of rain, and +in wet seasons they must, I should imagine, be full of quagmires, and +almost impassable. + +On the 10th, we passed through a country that differed in no material +point from that already described. We stopped at 10 a.m. under some +brush, in the centre of a large plain, from which Arbuthnot's range +bore S. 84 E. distant from 50 to 55 miles, and afterwards traversed or +rather crossed, those extensive tracts described by Mr. Evans as being +under water and covered with reeds, in 1817. They now bore a very +different appearance, being firm and dry. The soil was in general good, +and covered with forest grass and a species of oxalia. We did not +observe any reeds, or the signs of inundation, but, as is invariably +the case with plains in the interior, they were of too even surface, as +I have so lately remarked, to admit of the waters running quickly off +them; and no doubt, when they became saturated, many quagmires are +formed, that would very much impede the movements of an expedition. + +REACH THE CASTLEREAGH RIVER. + +We reached the Castlereagh about 4 p.m., and although its channel could +not have been less than 130 yards in breadth, there was apparently not +a drop of water in it. Its bed consisted of pure sand and reeds; amid +the latter, we found a small pond of 15 yards circumference, after a +long search. There is a considerable dip in the country towards the +river, at about two miles from it; and the intervening brush was full +of kangaroo, which, I fancy, had congregated to a spot where there was +abundance of food for them. The soil covering the space was of the +richest quality, and the timber upon it consisted of box, mountain gum, +and the angophora lanceolata, a tree that is never found except on rich +ground. + +WANT OF WATER; CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + +It appeared that our troubles were to recommence, and that in order to +continue on the Castlereagh, it would be necessary for Mr. Hume and +myself to undertake those fatiguing journeys in search of water that +had so exhausted us already: and after all, it was doubtful how soon we +might be forced back. I had certainly expected that, on our gaining the +banks of the river, we should have had a constant supply of water, but +the circumstance of the Castlereagh having not only ceased to flow, but +being absolutely dry, while it afforded the best and clearest proof of +the severity and continuance of the drought in the interior, at the +same time damped the spirits and ardour of the men. We kept the left +bank of the river as we proceeded down it, and passed two or three +larger ponds about a mile below where we had slept, but there they +ceased. The bed of the river became one of pure sand, nor did there +appear to be any chance of our finding any water in it. I stopped the +party at about eight miles, and desired the men to get their dinners, +to give Mr. Hume and myself time to search for a supply upon the +plains. Disappointed to the left, we crossed the channel of the +Castlereagh, and struck over a small plain upon the right bank, and at +the extremity of it, came upon a swamp, from which we immediately +returned for the cattle, and got them unloaded by seven o'clock. As +there was sufficient pasture around us, I proposed to Mr. Hume on the +following day, to leave the party stationary, and to ride down the +river to see how far its present appearances continued. Like the +generality of rivers of the interior, it had, where we struck upon it, +outer banks to confine its waters during floods, and to prevent them +from spreading generally over the country; the space between the two +banks being of the richest soil, and the timber chiefly of the +angophora kind. Flooded-gum overhung the inner banks of the river, or +grew upon the many islands, with casuarina. It became evident, however, +that the outer banks declined in height as we proceeded down the river, +nor was it long before they ceased altogether. As we rode along, we +found that the inner ones were fast decreasing in height also. Riding +under a hanging wood of the angophora, which had ceased for a time, we +were induced to break off to our right, to examine some large +flooded-gum trees about a couple of miles to the N.W. of us. On +arriving near them, we were astonished to find that they concealed a +serpentine lagoon that had a belt of reeds round it. Keeping this +lagoon upon our right, we at length came to the head of it, past which +the river sweeps. Crossing the channel of the river, we continued to +ride in an easterly direction to examine the country. In doing this, +we struck on a second branch of the Castlereagh, leading W. by N. into +a plain, which it of course inundates at times, and running up it, we +found its bed at the point of separation, to be considerably higher +than that of the main channel, which still continued of pure sand--and +was stamped all over with the prints of the feet of natives, kangaroos, +emus, and wild dogs, We then turned again to the head of the lagoon, +and took the following bearings of Arbuthnot's range: + + Mount Exmouth .......... E. 90 S. + Centre Range ........... E. 35 E. + Vernon's Peak .......... E. 20 S. + +From the head of the lagoon, the river appeared to enter a reedy +hollow, shaded by a long line of flooded gum trees, and on proceeding +to it, we found the banks ceased here altogether; and that a very +considerable plain extended both to the right and the left, which +cannot fail of being frequently laid under water. + +LAGOONS AND CREEKS OF THE CASTLEREAGH. + +On the following morning we moved the party to the lagoon, and, passing +its head, encamped to the north of it; after which we again rode down +the river in search of water. It continued to hold a straight and +northerly course for about five miles, having a plain on either side. +The reeds that had previously covered the channel then suddenly ceased, +and the channel, contracting in breadth, gained in depth: it became +extremely serpentine, and at length lost all the character and +appearance of a river. It had many back channels, as large as the main +one, serving to overflow the neighbouring country. We succeeded in +finding a small pond of water in one of the former, hardly large enough +to supply our necessities, but as it enabled us to push so much further +on, we turned towards the lagoon, making a circuitous journey to the +right, across a large plain, bounded to the north by low acacia brush +and box. We struck upon a creek at the further extremity of the plain, +in which there was a tolerably sized pond. It appeared from the traces +of men, that some natives had been there the day before; but we did not +see any of them. The water was extremely muddy and unfit for use. The +lagoon at which we had encamped, was of less importance than we had +imagined. + +JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER. + +Whilst Mr. Hume led the party down the river, I rode up its northward +bank, to examine it more closely. I found it to be a serpentine sheet +of about three miles in length, gradually decreasing in depth until it +separated into two small creeks. In following one of them up, I +observed that they re-united at the distance of about two miles, and +that the lagoon was filled from the eastward, and not by the river as I +had at first supposed. The waters at the head of the lagoon were +putrid, nor was there a fish in, or a wild fowl upon it. The only bird +we saw was a beautiful eagle, of the osprey kind, with plumage like a +sea gull, which had a nest in the tree over the tents. + +In turning to overtake the party I rode through a great deal of acacia +scrub, and on arriving at the place at which I expected to have +overtaken them, I found they had pushed on. + +The Castlereagh, as I rode down it, diminished in size considerably, +and became quite choked up with rushes and brambles. Rough-gum again +made its appearance, with swamp-oak and a miserable acacia scrub +outside. The country on both sides of the river seemed to be an +interminable flat, and the soil of an inferior description. + +WRETCHED APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. + +I came up with with Mr. Hume about 1 o'clock and we again pushed +forward at 3, and halted for the night without water, the want of which +the cattle did not feel. The river held a general westerly course, and +the country in its neighbourhood became extremely depressed and low. On +the following day we moved forward a distance of not more than nine +miles, through a country on which, at first, the acacia pendula alone +was growing on a light alluvial soil. The river had many back drains, +by means of which, in wet seasons, it inundates the adjacent plains. It +was evident, however, that they had not been flooded for many years; +and, notwithstanding that the country was low, the line of inundation +did not appear to be very extensive, nor were there any reeds growing +beyond the immediate banks of the river. Swamp-oak and rough-gum again +prevailed near the stream at our halting place, and the improvement +that had taken place, both in the country and in the Castlereagh, had +induced us to make so short a journey; for not only was there abundance +of the grass for the animals, but large ponds of water in the river. +Some natives had only just preceded us down it: we came upon their +fires that were still smoking; and upon them were the remains of some +fish they had taken, near which they had left a cumbrous spear. The +circumstances cheered us with hopes that an improvement would take +place in the country, and that some new feature would soon open upon +us. In the course of the following day, however, every favorable +change, both in the river and in the country, disappeared. The latter +continued extremely depressed, and in general open, or lightly covered +with acacia pendula; the former dwindled into a mere ditch, choked up +with brambles and reeds, and having only here and there a stagnant pool +of water. We travelled on a N.W. 1/2 W. course for about ten miles, and +again stopped for the night without water. In the course of the +afternoon, we traversed several flats, on which the rough-gum alone was +growing. These flats were evidently subject to flood; and contained an +alluvial soil. + +They became more frequent as we travelled down the river, and the work +was so heavy for the animals, that I was obliged to keep wide of them, +in doing which we struck upon a creek of large size, coming from the +N.E. and, having crossed, we traversed its right bank to its junction +with the Castlereagh, and stopped close to it at a pond of water, +though the feed for the animals was bad. The country to the left of the +river, though somewhat high, was the same, in essential points, as that +to the right. + +The Castlereagh seemed to have increased in size below the creek, but +still it had no resemblance to a river. We had not proceeded very far +down its banks, on the 18th, when we crossed a broad footpath leading +to it from the interior. I turned my horse to the left, and struck upon +a long sheet of water, from which I startled a number of pelicans. It +was evident that the natives had recently been in the neighbourhood, +but we thought it probable they might have been a hunting party, who +had returned again to the plains. The whole track we passed over during +the day was miserably poor and bare of vegetation, nor did the +appearance of the country to the N.E. indicate any improvement. We lost +the traces of the natives immediately after crossing their path or +beat, and again found the bed of the river dry, after we had passed the +sheet of water to which it led. The soil was so rotten and yielding, +that the team knocked up early; indeed, it was a matter of surprise to +me that they should not have failed before. The river made somewhat to +the westward with little promise of improvement. The wretched +appearance of the country as we penetrated into it, damped our spirits; +we pressed on, however, with difficulty, over ground that was totally +destitute of vegetation. Instead of lofty timber and a living stream, +we wandered along the banks of an insignificant watercourse, and under +trees of stunted size and scanty foliage. We stopped on the 20th at the +angle of a creek, in which there was some dry grass, in consequence of +the animals being almost in a starving state, but even here they had +but little to eat. + +A violent thunder-storm passed over us in the afternoon, but it made no +change in the temperature of the air. The weather, although it had been +hot and sultry, had fallen far short of the intense heat we experienced +in crossing the marshes of the Macquarie, when it was such as to melt +the sugar in the canisters, and to destroy all our dogs; and our nights +were now become agreeably cool. + +A PARTY OF NATIVES. + +We still, however, continued to travel over a dead level, nor was a +height or break visible from the loftiest trees we ascended. A little +before we stopped at the creek, we surprised a party of natives; old +men, women, and children. They were preparing dinners of fish in much +larger quantities than they could have devoured--probably for a part of +the tribe that were absent; but the moment they saw us they fled, and +left every thing at our mercy. On examining the fish, we found them +totally different from any in the Macquarie, and took two of the most +perfect to preserve. In the afternoon one of the men came to inform me +that the tribe was coming down upon us. + +Mr. Hume and I, therefore, went to meet them. They were at this time +about 150 yards from the tent, but seeing us advance, they stopped, and +forming two deep, they marched to and fro, to a war song I suppose, +crouching with their spears. We had not, however, any difficulty in +communicating with them, and I shall detail the manner in which this +was brought about, in hopes that it may help to guide others. When the +natives saw us advance, they stopped, and we did the same. Mr. Hume +then walked to a tree, and broke off a short branch. It is singular +that this should, even with these rude people, be a token of peace. As +soon as they saw the branch, the natives laid aside their spears, and +two of them advanced about twenty paces in front of the rest, who sat +down. Mr. Hume then went forward and sat down, when the two natives +again advanced and seated themselves close to him. + +Now it is evident that a little insight into the customs of every +people is necessary to insure a kindly communication; this, joined with +patience and kindness, will seldom fail with the natives of the +interior. It is not to avoid alarming their natural timidity that a +gradual approach is so necessary. They preserve the same ceremony among +themselves. These men, who were eighteen in number, came with us to the +tents, and received such presents as we had for them. They conducted +themselves very quietly, and, after a short time, left us with every +token of friendship. + +LARGE CREEK. + +On the 21st we proceeded down the river on a N.N.W. course, and at +about five miles struck upon a very large creek, apparently coming from +the E.N.E. + +Although the Castlereagh had increased in size, this creek was +infinitely larger; it was, however, perfectly dry. Lofty flooded-gum +trees were upon its banks, and it appeared so much superior to the +river that I was induced to halt the party at the junction, in order to +examine it more closely. Mr. Hume, therefore, rode with me up the right +bank. We had not proceeded very far, when some natives called out to us +from the opposite scrub. Thinking that they belonged to the tribe we +had left behind us, we pointed to the junction, and motioned them to go +there, but one of the party continued to follow and call to us for some +time. On our return to the men, we found that the natives had joined +them, and they now gave us to understand that we were going away from +water. This had indeed been apparent to us. The creek was perfectly +dry, as far as we traced it up; and seemed to have been totally +deserted by the natives. + +We were about to proceed on our journey, when from twenty to thirty +natives approached us from down the river. We sent two of those who had +been with us to them, and the whole accompanied us for some miles, +talking incessantly to the men, but keeping at a very respectful +distance from the animals. We at length got opposite to their camp, +near which there was a very fine pool of water, and they were earnest +in persuading us to stop at it. We were, however, too anxious to get +forward to comply; under the improved appearance of the river since it +had received the creeks from the eastward, little anticipating what was +before us. + +NATIVE ARMOURY. + +The natives did not follow us beyond their own encampment. Within sight +of it, we came upon their armoury, if I may so term it. Numerous spears +were reared against the trees, and heaps of boomerangs were lying on +the ground. The spears were very heavy, and half barbed; and it is +singular that three of them were marked with a broad arrow. We saw the +natives watching us, fearful, I imagine, that we should help ourselves; +but I would not permit any of their weapons to be touched. + +EXAMINATION OF CREEKS NEAR THE CASTLEREAGH. + +Pursuing our journey, we reached another creek, at about five miles, +similar to the last in appearance and size, and we crossed it +repeatedly during the afternoon. We had been induced to keep along a +native path in the hope that it would have led us to the river by a +short cut; but it eventually led us to this creek, and away from the +Castlereagh; for, notwithstanding that we subsequently changed our +course to the S.W., we failed, as we supposed, again to strike upon the +latter, and were obliged to stop for the night on the banks of what +appeared to be a third large dry creek, which we intersected nearly at +right angles. + +We travelled through a good deal of brush during the day, nor did the +country change from the miserable and barren character it had assumed +for the last thirty or forty miles. The Castlereagh had so frequently +changed, that both Mr. Hume and myself were puzzled as to the identity +of the creek upon which we had halted. We searched its bed in vain for +water, although it was most capacious. Under an impression that the +river was still to the south, and that we were at a point to which many +watercourses from the high lands tended, I crossed the creek early in +the morning, and held a S.W. course, over an open forest country. At +about eight miles, we came upon a large space over-run by the polygonum +junceum, a certain indication of flooded ground, and of our consequent +proximity to some stream. Accordingly, after pushing through it, we +struck upon a small creek with abundance of water in it. Whether this +creek was the Castlereagh, which it resembled much more than the one we +had left in the morning, was doubtful; but it was a great source of +comfort to us to have so unexpected a supply of water as that which was +now at our disposal. Whatever channel this was, whether a river or a +creek, our tracing it down would lead us in the direction we wished to +go, and probably to some junction. + +The neighbourhood of the creek was well clothed with vegetation, and +the cattle found good feed; but the only trees near it were rough-gum +and casuarinae; the flooded-gum had again disappeared. The soil of the +forest land over which we journeyed was a light sandy loam; and its +timber consisted chiefly of eucalypti, acacia pendula, and the +angophora. + +Some natives visited us in the afternoon, and among them, both Mr. Hume +and I recognized one of those we had seen on the Darling. He also knew +us again, but we could not make out from him how far we were from that +river. They stayed with us till sunset, and then went down the creek, +leaving their spears against a tree, for which they said they would +return. + +On the 23rd we took up a W.N.W. course, and when we again touched on +the creek it was dry. This was at a distance of about five miles from +where we had slept. As the animals had not recovered from their late +privations, I deemed it better to halt the party and to examine the +creek for a few miles below us, that in case it should prove destitute +of water, we might return to that we had left. Mr. Hume accordingly +rode down it for about three miles, without success; and on his +rejoining the men, we returned with them to our last camp, or to within +a short distance of it. Wishing to examine the creek above our +position, I requested Mr. Hume to take two men with him, and to trace +it down in search of water, while I should proceed in the opposite +direction. I went from the camp at an early hour, and as I wandered +along the creek, I passed a regular chain of ponds. The country on both +sides of the creek was evidently subject to flood, but more extensively +to the south than to the north. From the creek, I struck away to my +left, and after penetrating through a belt of swamp-oak and minor +shrubs, got on a small plain, which I crossed N.E. and, to my +annoyance, found it covered with rhagodia and salsolae. As I had not +started with the intention of sleeping, I turned to the S.W. a little +before sunset, and reached the tents between ten and eleven. I found +Mr. Hume awaiting me. He informed me that at about nine miles from +where we had turned back with the party, he had struck upon a junction; +and that as the junction was much larger than the channel he had been +tracing, he thought it better to follow it up for a few miles. He found +that it narrowed in width, and that its banks became steep, with a fine +avenue of flooded-gum trees overhanging them. At four miles, he came +upon another junction, and at four miles more, found himself opposite +to the ground on which we had slept on the previous Saturday. From this +point he retraced the channel, but not finding any water for three +miles below the lower junction, he returned to the camp, with a view of +prosecuting a longer journey on the morrow. Mr. Hume had become +impressed with an opinion, that the junction up which we had slept was +no other than the Castlereagh itself; and that our position was on a +creek, probably Morrisset's chain of ponds, flowing into it. As the +cattle wanted a few days' rest, Mr. Hume and I determined to ride, +unattended, along our track to our camp of the 21st, and then to follow +the channel upwards, until we should arrive at the station of the +natives, or until we should have ridden to such a distance as would set +our conjectures at rest. In the morning, however, instead of running +upon our old track, we followed that of Mr. Hume to the junction, +giving up our first intention, with a view to ascertain if there +existed any water which we could, by an effort, gain, below where Mr. +Hume had been. The channel was very broad, with a considerable fall in +its bed, and, in appearance, more resembled the slope of a lawn than +the bed of a river. It had two gum-trees in the centre of its channel, +in one of which the floods had left the trunk of a large tree. We could +discover where it narrowed and its banks rose, but, as we intended to +make a closer examination before we left the neighbourhood, we +continued our journey down the principal channel. The ground exhibited +an abundance of pasture in its immediate neighbourhood, but the distant +country was miserably poor and bare. At about three miles, we came upon +the fresh traces of some natives, which led us to the channel again, +from which we had wandered unintentionally. In it we found there had +been water very lately, and it appeared that the natives had dug holes +at the bottom to insure a longer supply. These were now exhausted, but +still retained the appearance of moisture. At a mile and a half beyond +these, we were led to some similar holes, by observing a number of +birds flying about them. The water was too muddy for us to drink, but +the horses emptied them successively. We now kept sufficiently near the +channel to insure our seeing any pool that might still remain in it, +but rode for about seven miles before we again saw water, and even +here, although it was a spring, we were obliged to dig holes, and await +their filling, before we could get sufficient for our use. Having +dined, we again pursued our journey, and almost immediately came upon a +long narrow ditch, full of water, and lined by bulrushes. The creek or +river had for some time kept the centre of a deep alluvial valley, in +which there was plenty of food for the cattle, and which, at this +place, was apparently broader than anywhere else. The situation being +favourable, we returned to the camp, and reached it late. + +DEPRESSION OF THE MEN. + +I do not know whether I was wrong in my conjecture, but I fancied, +about this time, that the men generally were desponding. Whether it was +that the constant fatigue entailed on myself and Mr. Hume, and that our +constant absence, or the consequent exhaustion it produced, had any +effect on their minds, or that they feared the result of our +perseverance, is difficult to say; but certainly, they all had a +depression of spirits, and looked, I thought, altered in appearance; +nor did they evince any satisfaction at our success--at least, not the +satisfaction they would have shown at an earlier period of our journey. + +Before moving forward, it remained for us to ascertain if the channel +from the junction was the Castlereagh, or only a creek. The +intersection of so many channels in this neighbourhood, most of them so +much alike, made it essentially necessary that we should satisfy +ourselves on this point. Mr. Hume, therefore, accompanied me, as had at +first been intended the morning of our return to the place at which we +had slept. We took fresh horses, but dispensed with any other +attendants, and indeed went wholly unarmed. + +CAMP OF NATIVES. + +After following our old track to its termination, we kept up the right +bank of the channel, and at length arrived at the camp of the natives; +thus satisfying ourselves that we had been journeying on the +Castlereagh, and that we were still following it down. By this ride we +ascertained that there was a distance of five-and-forty miles in its +bed without a drop of water. Few of the natives were in the camp. The +women avoided us, but not as if they were under any apprehension. +Crossing at the head of the pool, we again got on our old track, but +seeing two or three men coming towards us we alighted, and, tying our +horses to a tree, went to meet them. One poor fellow had two ducks in +his hand, which he had just taken off the fire; these he offered to us, +and on our declining to accept of them, he called to a boy, who soon +appeared with a large trough of honey, of which we partook. One of the +men had an ulcer in the arm, and asked me what he should do to heal it; +indeed, I believe Fraser had promised him some ointment, but not having +any with me, I signified to him that he should wash it often, and +stooping down, made as if I was taking up water in my hand. The poor +fellow mistook me, and, also stooping down, took up a handful of dust +which he threw over the sore. This gave me the trouble of explaining +matters again, and by pointing to the water, I believe I at length made +him understand me. + +DRY CHANNEL OF THE RIVER. + +These good natured people asked us where we had slept the day we +passed, and when informed of the direction, shook their heads, +motioning at the same time, that we must have been without water. We +informed them where the party was, and asked them to come and see us, +but I fancy the distance was too great, or else we were in the beat of +another tribe. On mentioning these facts to the men, they said that two +of the natives had followed us for some miles, calling out loudly to +us, but Mr. Hume and I both being in front, we did not hear them, +although, evidently, they wished to save us distress. + +Since the result of our excursion proved that the channel, about which +I had been so doubtful, was the Castlereagh, it necessarily followed, +that the creek at which we were encamped was one of those (most +probably Morrisset's chain of ponds,) which we had already crossed +nearer its source, and which Mr. Hume must have struck upon when +endeavouring to gain the Castlereagh from the marshes of the Macquarie. + +A perusal of these sheets will ere this have impressed on the reader's +mind, the peculiarity of that fortune which led us from the Castlereagh +to the creek, at which alone our wants could have been supplied. Had we +wandered down the river, as we undoubtedly should have done had we +recognised it as such, the loss of many of our animals would have been +the inevitable consequence, and very probably a final issue would have +been put to our journey. It is only to those who are placed in +situations that baffle their own exertions or foresight, that the +singular guidance of Providence becomes fully apparent. + +NATIVES PERISHING FROM FAMINE. + +It would appear that the natives were dying fast, not from any disease, +but from the scarcity of food; and, should the drought continue, it +seemed probable they may became extinct. + +The men found the body of a woman covered with leaves near the tents, +and very properly buried it. We made Friday a day of rest for +ourselves, as indeed was necessary; and on the following morning +proceeded down the river, and encamped on a high bank above it, at the +base of which, our cattle both fed and watered. + +At this spot one of the largest gum-trees I had ever seen had fallen, +having died for want of moisture; indeed, the state of the vegetable +kingdom was such as to threaten its total extinction, unless a change +of seasons should take place. + +It may be worthy of remark that, from our first arrival on the banks of +the Castlereagh, to our arrival at the present camp, we never picked up +a stone, or a pebble, in its bed. + +JUNCTION OF THE CASTLEREAGH WITH THE DARLING. + +In the hope that we should fall on some detached pond, we pursued our +journey on the 29th. The Castlereagh gave singular proofs of its +violence, as if its waters, confined in the valley, had a difficulty in +escaping from it. We had not travelled two miles, when in crossing, as +we imagined, one of its bights, we found ourselves checked by a broad +river. A single glimpse of it was sufficient to tell us it was the +Darling. At a distance of more than ninety miles nearer its source, +this singular river still preserved its character, so strikingly, that +it was impossible not to have recognised it in a moment. The same steep +banks and lofty timber, the same deep reaches, alive with fish, were +here visible as when we left it. A hope naturally arose to our minds, +that if it was unchanged in other respects, it might have lost the +saltness that rendered its waters unfit for use; but in this we were +disappointed--even its waters continued the same. As it was impossible +for us to cross the Darling, I determined on falling back upon our last +encampment, which was at a most Convenient distance, and of concerting +measures there for our future movements. Prior to doing so, however, I +rode to the junction of the Castlereagh with the Darling, accompanied +by Mr. Hume, a distance of about half a mile. Upon the point formed by +the two streams, there were a number of huts, and on the opposite bank +of the Darling, about twenty natives had collected. We called out to +them, but they would not join us. + +At the junction, the Castlereagh, with whatever impetuosity it rushes +from its confinement, makes not apparently the least impression on the +Darling River. The latter seemed to loll on, totally heedless of such a +tributary. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Perplexity--Trait of honesty in the natives--Excursion on horseback +across the Darling--Forced to return--Desolating effects of the +drought--Retreat towards the colony--Connection between the Macquarie +and the Darling--Return up the banks of the Macquarie--Starving +condition of the natives. + + +On our return to the party, we found them surrounded by the natives, +who were looking with an eye of wonder on the cattle and horses. We +pointed out to them the direction in which we were going, and invited +them to visit us; and nothing appeared to astonish them so much as the +management of the team by a single man. We got back to our position +early, and again fixed ourselves upon it. + +It now only remained for us to consider what we should do under +circumstances of certainly more than ordinary perplexity. We had +nothing to hope for from travelling in a southerly direction, while to +the E. and N.E., the state of the country was worse than that by which +we had penetrated to the Darling. It was evident, that the large creeks +joining the Castlereagh in that direction were dry, since the natives +not only intimated this to us, but it was unquestionable that they +themselves had deserted them, and had crowded to such places as still +contained a supply of water. Even in retreating, we could not hope to +retrace our steps. Experience had proved to us, that the dry state of +the interior was as injurious to the movements of an expedition as a +too wet season would have been. Taking everything, therefore, into +consideration, I determined on leaving the party stationary, and on +crossing the Darling to the N.W., and, if any encouraging feature +presented itself, to return for the party, and persevere in an +examination of the distant interior. Such, at least, appeared to me the +most judicious plan: indeed, an attempt to have moved in any other +direction would have been fruitless. And, as the result of this journey +would be decisive, and would either fix or determine our advance or +retreat, I was anxious for Mr. Hume's attendance. + +The natives followed to the camp, and in the course of the afternoon, +were joined by their women. The latter however, would not approach +nearer than the top of a little hillock on which they sat. The men did +not come round the tents, but stood in a row at a short distance. At +sunset, they gained a little courage, and wandered about a little more; +at length they went off to the Darling. + +HONESTY OF A NATIVE. + +It was quite dark, when I heard a native call from the hill on which +the women had been, and I desired Hopkinson to take his firelock and +ascertain what the man wanted. He soon after returned, and brought a +blanket, which he said the man had returned to him. The native was +alone, and when he offered the blanket, kept his spear poised in his +right hand; but, seeing that no violence was intended him, he lowered +his weapon, and walked away. + +REWARD THE MAN FOR HIS CONDUCT. + +I was extremely pleased at this trait of honesty, and determined to +reward it. On inquiry, I found that the men had availed themselves of +the day to wash their blankets and that one of them had been flung over +a bush hanging over the bank of the river, and it was supposed that one +of the natives must have pulled it down with him. In the morning, the +tribe went away from their encampment before day-light as we judged +from the cry of their dogs, than which nothing could be more +melancholy; but about eight, the men made their appearance on the hill +occupied by the women the evening previously, and seemed to be doubtful +whether to approach nearer. I went out to them, and, with a downward +motion of my hand, beckoned for them to come to me: they mistook the +signal, but laid all their spears on the ground, and it was not until +after the sign had been reversed that they stirred or moved towards me. +I then got them in a row, and desired Hopkinson to single out the man +who had given him the blanket. It was, however, with great difficulty +that he recognised him, as the man stood firm and motionless. At +length, after walking two or three times along the line, he stopped +before one man, and put his hand on his shoulder, upon which the manner +of the native testified as to the correctness of his guess. + +The blanket being produced, I explained to the savage, with Mr. Hume's +assistance, that I was highly pleased with him, and forthwith presented +him with a tomahawk and a clasp-knife. The tribe were perfectly aware +of the reason of my conduct, and all of them seemed highly delighted. + +I was happy in having such an opportunity of showing the natives of the +interior that I came among them with a determination to maintain +justice in my communication with them, and to impress them, at the same +time, with a sense of our love of it in them. That they appreciated my +apparent lenity in not calling for the defaulter, I am sure, and I feel +perfectly conscious that I should have failed in my duty had I acted +otherwise than I did. + +EFFECT OF FIRING A GUN. + +Although the natives had shown so good a disposition, as they were +numerous, I thought it as well, since I was about to leave the camp, to +show them that I had a power they little dreamt of about me. I +therefore called for my gun and fired a ball into a tree. The effect of +the report upon the natives, was truly ridiculous. Some stood and +stared at me, others fell down, and others ran away; and it was with +some difficulty we collected them again. At last, however, we did so, +and, leaving them to pick out the ball, mounted our horses and struck +away for the Darling. We crossed the river a little above where we +struck it, and then proceeded N.W. into the interior. + +EXCURSION ACROSS THE DARLING. + +It is impossible for me to describe the nature of the country over +which we passed, for the first eight miles. We rode through brushes of +polygonum, under rough-gum, without a blade of vegetation, the whole +space being subject to inundation. We then got on small plains of +firmer surface, and red soil, but these soon changed again for the +former; and at 4 p.m. we found ourselves advanced about two miles on a +plain that stretched away before us, and bounded the horizon. It was +dismally brown; a few trees only served to mark the distance. Up one of +the highest I sent Hopkinson, who reported that he could not see the +end of it, and that all around looked blank and desolate. It is a +singular fact, that during the whole day, we had not seen a drop of +water or a blade of grass. + +DESOLATING EFFECTS OF THE DROUGHT. + +To have stopped where we were, would, therefore, have been impossible; +to have advanced, would probably have been ruin. Had there been one +favorable circumstance to have encouraged me with the hope of success, +I would have proceeded. Had we picked up a stone as indicating our +approach to high land, I would have gone on; or had there been a break +in the level of the country, or even a change in the vegetation. But we +had left all traces of the natives far behind us; and this seemed a +desert they never entered--that not even a bird inhabited. I could not +encourage a hope of success, and, therefore, gave up the point; not +from want of means, but a conviction of the inutility of any further +efforts. If there is any blame to be attached to the measure, it is I +who am in fault, but none who had not like me traversed the interior at +such a season, would believe the state of the country over which I had +wandered. During the short interval I had been out, I had seen rivers +cease to flow before me, and sheets of water disappear; and had it not +been for a merciful Providence, should, ere reaching the Darling, have +been overwhelmed by misfortune. + +I am giving no false picture of the reality. So long had the drought +continued, that the vegetable kingdom was almost annihilated, and minor +vegetation had disappeared. In the creeks, weeds had grown and +withered, and grown again; and young saplings were now rising in their +beds, nourished by the moisture that still remained; but the largest +forest trees were drooping, and many were dead. The emus, with +outstretched necks, gasping for breath, searched the channels of the +rivers for water, in vain; and the native dog, so thin that it could +hardly walk, seemed to implore some merciful hand to despatch it. How +the natives subsisted it was difficult to say, but there was no doubt +of the scarcity of food among them. + +We arrived in camp at a late hour, and having nothing to detain us +longer, prepared for our retreat in the morning. The natives had +remained with the party during the greater part of the day, and had +only left them a short time prior to our arrival. + +When examining the creek on which we had been encamped for some days, +Mr. Hume observed a small junction; and as we knew we were almost due +N. of the marshes of the Macquarie, both of us were anxious to +ascertain whence it originated. To return to Mount Harris, by retracing +our steps up the Castlereagh, would have entailed the severest distress +upon us; we the rather preferred proceeding up this creek, and taking +our chance for a supply of water. We therefore crossed Morrisset's +chain of ponds, and encamped in the angle formed by the junction of the +two creeks. + +Before we left this position, we were visited by a party of natives, +twelve in number, but not of the Darling tribe. They accompanied us a +short way, and then struck off to the right. At about a mile and a +half, we crossed Mr. Hume's track, leading westerly, which still +remained observable. The creek was, no doubt, the hollow he stated that +he crossed on that excursion, and its appearance certainly justified +his opinion of it. Its bed was choked up with bulrushes or the +polygonum, and its banks were level with the country on either side, or +nearly so. We passed over extremely rich soil the whole day, on a S.W. +and by W. course, though the timber upon it was dwarfish, and +principally of the rough-gum kind. + +On the 2nd of April, we stopped in order to make some repairs upon the +dray; the wheels of which had failed us. Clayton put in four new +spokes, and we heated the tyres over again, by which means we got it +once more serviceable. + +WILD MELON. + +The soil in the creek was of the richest quality, and was found to +produce a dwarf melon, having all the habits and character of the +cucumber. The fruit was not larger than a pigeon's egg, but was +extremely sweet. There were not, however, many ripe, although the +runners were covered with flowers, and had an abundance of fruit upon +them. In the morning, we sent the tinker on horseback up the creek, to +ascertain how far the next water was from us, desiring him to keep the +creek upon his right, and to follow his own track back again. He +thought fit, however, considering himself a good bushman, to wander +away to his left, and the consequence was, that he soon lost himself. +It would appear that he doubled and passed through some thick brush at +the back of the camp, and at length found himself at dark on the banks +of a considerable creek. In wandering along it, he luckily struck upon +the natives we had last seen, who, good-naturedly, led him to the track +of the dray, which his horse would not afterwards desert, and the +tinker sneaked into the tent about 3 o'clock in the morning, having +failed in his errand, and made himself the butt of the whole party. + +RETURN UP THE CREEK. + +The day succeeding this adventure, we moved up the creek, which was, +for the most part, even with the plain. The country continued the same +as that we had passed over from the junction, being subject to flood, +and having patches of bulrushes and reeds upon it. No change took place +in the timber, but the line of acacia pendula, which forms the line of +inundation, approached neater to us; nor was the mark of flood so high +on the trunks of trees as below. We halted, with abominable water, but +excellent food for the animals in the plains behind us. In continuing +our journey, we found several changes take place in the appearance of +the creek and its neighbourhood. The former diminished in size, and at +length separated into two distinct channels, choked up, for the most +part, with dead bulrushes, but having a few green reeds in patches +along it. The flats on either side became slightly timbered, and blue +gum was the prevailing tree. Crossing one of the channels, we observed +every appearance of our near approach to the marshes, the flats being +intersected by many little water-runs, such as we had noticed at the +bottom of them. About noon we struck upon a body of reeds under the +wood of eucalypti, below the second great morass, and keeping a little +to our right to avoid them, fell shortly afterwards into our old track +on the plain, upon which we continued to move, making the best of our +way to the channel which had supplied our wants on our first return +from the Darling. It was now, however, quite dry, and we were obliged +to push on further, to shorten the journey of the morrow. + +CONNECTION OF MACQUARIE AND DARLING. + +The result of our journey up the creek was particularly satisfactory, +both to myself and Mr. Hume; since it cleared up every doubt that might +have existed regarding the actual termination of the Macquarie, and +enabled us to connect the flow of waters at so interesting and +particular a point. It will be seen by a reference to the chart, that +the waters of the marshes, after trickling through the reeds, form a +small creek, which carries off the superfluous part of them into +Morrisset's chain of ponds, which latter again falls into the +Castlereagh, at about eight miles to the W.N.W. and all three join the +Darling in a W. by N. direction, in lat. 30 degrees 52 minutes south +and E. lon. 147 degrees 8 minutes at about 90 miles to the N.N.W. of +Mount Harris, and about an equal distance to the E.S.E. of where we +struck upon the last-mentioned river. Thus it is evident that the +Darling had considerably neared the eastern ranges, although it was +still more than 150 miles from their base. It was apparently coming +from the N.E., and whether it has its sources in the mountains behind +our distant settlements, or still farther to the northwards, is a +question of curious speculation, although, as I have already stated, I +am of opinion that none but tropical rains could supply the furious +torrent that must sometimes rage in it. + +It would be presumptuous to hazard any opinion as to the nature of the +interior to the westward of that remarkable river. Its course is +involved in equal mystery, and it is a matter of equal doubt whether it +makes its way to the south coast, or ultimately exhausts itself in +feeding a succession of swamps, or falls into a large reservoir in the +centre of the island. + +RETURN TO MOUNT HARRIS. + +We reached Mount Harris on the 7th of the month, and moving leisurely +up the banks of the Macquarie, gained Mr. Palmer's first station on the +14th, and Wellington Valley on the 21st, having been absent from that +settlement four months and two weeks. The waters of the Macquarie had +diminished so much, that its bed was dry for more than half a mile at a +stretch, nor did we observe the least appearance of a current in it, +until after we had ascended the ranges. The lower tribes were actually +starving, and brought their children to us to implore something to eat. +The men attempted to surprise the camp, but I believe they were urged +from absolute necessity to procure subsistence for themselves, and that +they intended robbery rather than personal violence. + +DEPLORABLE STATE OF THE COUNTRY. + +We left the interior in a still more deplorable state than that in +which we found it; but it is more than probable that under other +circumstances, we should have found it impossible to traverse its +distant plains, as it is certain that unless rain fell in less than +three weeks, all communication with the Darling would have been cut off: + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +General remarks--Result of the expedition--Previous anticipations--Mr. +Oxley's remarks--Character of the Rivers flowing westerly--Mr. +Cunningham's remarks--Fall of the Macquarie--Mr. Oxley's erroneous +conclusions respecting the character of the interior, naturally +inferred from the state in which he found the country--The marsh of the +Macquarie merely a marsh of the ordinary character--Captain King's +observations--Course of the Darling--Character of the low interior +plain--The convict Barber's report of rivers traversing the +interior--Surveyor-General Mitchell's Report of his recent expedition. + +RESULT OF THE EXPEDITION. + +Whether the discoveries that have been made during this expedition, +will ultimately prove of advantage to the colony of New South Wales, is +a question that time alone can answer. We have in the meanwhile to +regret that no beneficial consequences will immediately follow them. +The further knowledge that has been gained of the interior is but as a +gleam of sunshine over an extensive landscape. A stronger light has +fallen upon the nearer ground, but the distant horizon is still +enveloped in clouds. The veil has only as it were been withdrawn from +the marshes of the Macquarie to be spread over the channel of the +Darling. Unsatisfactory, however, as the discoveries may as yet be +considered in a commercial point of view, the objects for which the +expedition had been fitted out were happily attained. The marsh it had +been directed to examine, was traversed on every side, and the rivers +it had been ordered to trace, were followed down to their terminations +to a distance far beyond where they had ceased to exist as living +streams. To many who may cast their eyes over the accompanying chart, +the extent of newly discovered country may appear trifling; but when +they are told, that there is not a mile of that ground that was not +traversed over and over again, either by Mr. Hume or by myself, that we +wandered over upwards of 600 miles more than the main body of the +expedition, on different occasions, in our constant and anxious search +for water, and that we seldom dismounted from our horses, until long +after sunset, they will acknowledge the difficulties with which we had +to contend, and will make a generous allowance for them; for, however +unsuccessful in some respects the expedition may have been, it +accomplished as much, it is to be hoped, as under such trying +circumstances could have been accomplished. It now only remains for me +to sum up the result of my own observations, and to point out to the +reader, how far the actual state of the interior, has been found to +correspond with the opinions that were entertained of it. + +MR. OXLEY'S REMARKS. + +I have already stated, in the introduction to this work, that the +general impression on the minds of those best qualified to judge was, +that the western streams discharged themselves into a central shoal +sea. Mr. Oxley thus expresses himself on the subject:-- + + +"July 3rd. Towards morning the storm abated, and at day-light, we +proceeded on our voyage. The main bed of the river was much contracted, +but very deep; the waters spreading to the depth of a foot or eighteen +inches over the banks, but all running on the same point of bearing. We +met with considerable interruptions from fallen timber, which in places +nearly choked up the channel. After going about twenty miles, we lost +the land and trees; the channel of the river, which lay through reeds, +and was from one to three feet deep, ran northerly.--This continued for +three or four miles farther, when, although there had been no previous +change in the breadth, depth, or rapidity of the stream for several +miles, and I was sanguine in my expectations of soon entering the +long-sought-for Australian sea, it all at once eluded our farther +pursuit, by spreading on every point from N.W. to N.E. among the ocean +of reeds which surrounded us, still running with the same rapidity as +before. There was no channel whatever among those reeds, and the depth +varied from three to five feet. This astonishing change (for I cannot +call it a termination of the river) of course left me no alternative +but to endeavour to return to some spot on which we could effect a +landing before dark. I estimated, that during the day, we had gone +about twenty-four miles, on nearly the same point of bearing as +yesterday. To assert, positively, that we were on the margin of the +lake, or sea, into which this great body of water is discharged, might +reasonably be deemed a conclusion, which has nothing but conjecture for +its basis. But if an opinion may be permitted to be hazarded from +actual appearances, mine is decidedly in favour of our being in the +immediate vicinity of an inland sea, or lake, most probably a shoal +one, and gradually filling up by numerous depositions from the high +lands, left by the waters which flow into it. It is most singular, that +the high lands on this continent seem to be confined to the sea-coast, +and not to extend to any distance from it." + +MR. CUNNINGHAM'S REMARKS. + +In a work published at Sydney, containing an account of Mr. Allan +Cunningham's journey towards Moreton Bay, in 1828, the following +remarks occur, from which it is evident Mr. Cunningham entertained Mr. +Oxley's views of the character and nature of the Western interior. +Towards the conclusion of the narrative, the author thus observes:-- + + +"Of the probable character of the distant unexplored interior, into +which it has been ascertained ALL the rivers falling westerly from the +dividing ranges flow, some inference may be drawn from the following +data. + +"Viewing, between the parallels of 34 degrees and 27 degrees, a vast +area of depressed interior, subjected in seasons of prolonged rains to +partial inundation, by a dispersion of the several waters that flow +upon it from the eastern mountains whence they originate; and bearing +in mind at the same time, that the declension of the country within the +above parallels, as most decidedly shown by the dip of its several +rivers, is uniformly to the N.N.W. and N.W., it would appear very +conclusive, that either a portion of our distant interior is occupied +by a lake of considerable magnitude, or that the confluence of those +large streams, the Macquarie, Castlereagh, Gwydir, and the Dumaresq, +with the many minor interfluent waters, which doubtless takes place +upon those low levels, forms one or more noble rivers, which may flow +across the continent by an almost imperceptible declivity of country to +the north of north-west coasts, on certain parts of which, recent +surveys have discovered to us extensive openings, by which the largest +accumulations of waters might escape to the sea." + +CHARACTER OF THE RIVERS. + +It is the characteristic of the streams falling westerly from the +eastern, or coast ranges, to maintain a breadth of channel and a +rapidity of current more immediately near their sources, that ill +accords with their diminished size, and the sluggish flow of their +waters in the more depressed interior. In truth, neither the Macquarie +nor the Castlereagh can strictly be considered as permanent rivers. The +last particularly is nothing more than a mountain torrent. The +Macquarie, although it at length ceased to run, kept up the appearance +of a river to the very marshes; but the bed of the Castlereagh might +have been crossed in many places without being noticed, nor did its +channel contain so much water as was to be found on the neighbouring +plains. + +There are two circumstances upon which the magnitude, and velocity of a +river, more immediately depend. The first is the abundance of its +sources, the other the dip of its bed. If a stream has constant +fountains at its head, and numerous tributaries joining it in its +course, and flows withal through a country of gradual descent, such a +stream will never fail; but if the supplies do not exceed the +evaporation and absorption, to which every river is subject, if a river +dependant on its head alone, falls rapidly into a level country, +without receiving a single addition to its waters to assist the first +impulse acquired in their descent, it must necessarily cease to flow at +one point or other. Such is the case with the Lachlan, the Macquarie, +the Castlereagh, and the Darling. Whence the latter originates, still +remains to be ascertained; but most undoubtedly its sources have been +influenced by the same drought that has exhausted the fountains of the +three first mentioned streams. + +In supporting his opinion of the probable discharge of the interior +waters of Australia upon its north-west coast, Mr. Cunningham thus +remarks in the publication from which I have already made an extract. + + +"To those remarkable parts of the north-west coast above referred to in +the parallel of 16 degrees south, the Macquarie river, which rises in +lat. 33 degrees, and under the meridian of 150 degrees east, would have +a course of 2045 statute miles throughout, while the elevation of its +source, being 3500 feet above the level of the sea as shown by the +barometer, would give its waters an average descent of twenty inches to +the mile, supposing the bed of the river to be an inclined plane. + +"The Gwydir originating in elevated land, lying in 31 degrees south, +and long. 151 degrees east, at a mean height of 3000 feet, would have +to flow 2020 miles, its elevated sources giving to each a mean fall of +seventeen inches. + +"Dumaresq's river falling 2970 feet from granite mountains, in 28 1/4 +degrees under the meridian of 152 degrees, would have to pursue its +course for 2969 miles, its average fall being eighteen inches to a +mile." + +As I have never been upon the banks either of the Gwydir or the +Dumaresq, I cannot speak of those two rivers; but in estimating the +sources of the Macquarie at 3500 feet above the level of the sea, Mr. +Cunningham has lost sight of, or overlooked the fact, that the fall of +its bed in the first two hundred miles, is more than 2800 feet, since +the cataract, which is midway between Wellington Valley and the +marshes, was ascertained by barometrical admeasurement, to be 680 feet +only above the ocean. The country, therefore, through which the +Macquarie would have to flow during the remainder of its course of 1700 +miles, in order to gain the N.W. coast, would not be a gradually +inclined plain, but for the most part a dead level, and the fact of its +failure is a sufficient proof in itself how short the course of a river +so circumstanced must necessarily be. + +MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS. + +Having conversed frequently with Mr. Oxley on the subject of his +expeditions, I went into the interior prepossessed in favour of his +opinions, nor do I think he could have drawn any other conclusion than +that which he did, from his experience of the terminations of the +rivers whose courses he explored. Had Mr. Oxley advanced forty, or even +thirty miles, farther than he did, to the westward of Mount Harris; +nay, had he proceeded eight miles in the above direction beyond the +actual spot from which he turned back, he would have formed other and +very different opinions of the probable character of the distant +interior. But I am aware that Mr. Oxley performed all that enterprise, +and perseverance, and talent could have performed, and that it would +have been impracticable in him to have attempted to force its marshes +in the state in which he found them. It was from his want of knowledge +of their nature and extent, that he inferred the swampy and +inhospitable character of the more remote country, a state in which +subsequent investigation has found it not to be. The marsh of the +Macquarie is nothing more than an ordinary marsh or swamp in another +country. However large a space it covers, it is no more than a +concavity or basin for the reception of the waters of the river itself, +nor has it any influence whatever on the country to the westward of it, +in respect to inundation; the general features of the latter being a +regular alternation of plain and brush. These facts are in themselves +sufficient to give a fresh interest to the interior of the Australian +continent, and to increase its importance. + +CAPT. KING'S OPINIONS. + +With respect to that part of its coast at which the rivers falling from +the eastern mountains, discharge themselves, it is a question of very +great doubt. It seems that Capt. King, in consequence of some +peculiarities in the currents at its N.W. angle, supports Mr. +Cunningham's opinion as to their probable discharge in that quarter. +But I fear the internal structure of the continent is so low, as to +preclude the hopes of any river reaching from one extremity of it to +the other. A variety of local circumstances, as the contraction of a +channel, a shoal sea, or numerous islands, influence currents +generally, but more especially round so extensive a continent as that +of which we are treating; nor does it strike me that any observations +made by Capt. King during his survey, can be held to bear any +connection with the eastern ranges, or their western waters. It may, +however, be said, that as the course of the Darling is still involved +in uncertainty, the question remains undecided; but it appears to me, +the discovery of that river has set aside every conjecture (founded on +previous observation) respecting the main features of the interior +lying to the westward of the Blue Mountains. Both Mr. Oxley and Mr. +Cunningham drew their conclusions from the appearances of the country +they severally explored. The ground on which those theories were built, +has been travelled over, and has not been found to realise them, but +subsequent investigation has discovered to us a river, the dip of whose +bed is to the S.W. We have every reason to believe that the sources of +this river must be far to the northward of the most distant northerly +point to which any survey has been made, as we are certain that it is +far beyond the stretch of vision from the loftiest and most westerly of +the barrier ranges; from which circumstance, it is evident that +whatever disposition the streams descending from those ranges to the +westward may show to hold a N.W. course more immediately at the base, +the whole of the interior streams, from the Macquarie to the Dumaresq, +are tributaries to the principal channel which conveys their united +waters at right angles, if not still more opposite to the direction +they were supposed to take, as far as is yet known. + +COURSE OF THE DARLING. + +The Darling River must be considered as the boundary line to all inland +discoveries from the eastward. Any judgment or opinion of the interior +to the westward of that stream, would be extremely premature and +uncertain. There is not a single feature over it to guide or to +strengthen either the one or the other. + +CHARACTER OF THE WESTERN INTERIOR. + +My impression, when travelling the country to the west and N.W. of the +marshes of the Macquarie, was, that I was traversing a country of +comparatively recent formation. The sandy nature of its soil, the great +want of vegetable decay, the salsolaceous character of its plants, the +appearance of its isolated hills and flooded tracts, and its trifling +elevations above the sea, severally contributed to strengthen these +impressions on my mind. My knowledge of the interior is, however, too +limited to justify me in any conclusion with regard to the central +parts of Australia. An ample field is open to enterprise and to +ambition, and it is to be hoped that some more decisive measures will +be carried into effect, both for the sake of the colony and of +geography, to fill up the blank upon the face of the chart of +Australia, and remove from us the reproach of indifference and inaction. + +BARBER'S STATEMENT. + +Since the above pages were written, an expedition was undertaken by +Major Mitchell, the Surveyor-General, to ascertain the truth of a +report brought in by a runaway convict of the name of Barber, or +Clarke, who had been at large for five years, at different times, among +the natives to the northward of Port Macquarie. This man stated that a +large river, originating in the high lands near Liverpool Plains, and +the mountains to the north of them, pursued a N.W. course to the sea. +His story ran thus: Having learnt from the natives the existence of +this river, he determined to follow it down, in hopes that he might +ultimately be enabled to make his escape from the colony. He +accordingly started from Liverpool Plains, and kept on a river called +the Gnamoi, for some time, which took him N.W. After a few days' +journey, he left this river, traversed the country northwards, and +crossed some lofty ranges. Descending to the N.E. he came to another +large river, the Keindur, which again took him N.W. He travelled 400 +miles down it, when he observed a large stream joining it upon its left +bank, which he supposed to be the Gnamoi. The river he was upon was +broad and navigable. It flowed through a level country with a dead +current and muddy water, and spread into frequent lakes. He found that +it ultimately discharged itself into the sea, but was uncertain at what +distance from its sources. He was positive he never travelled to the +SOUTHWARD OF WEST. He ascended a hill near the sea, and observed an +island in the distance, from which, the natives informed him, a race of +light-coloured men came in large canoes for a scented wood; but having +failed in the immediate object of his journey, he was eventually +obliged to return. + +MAJOR MITCHELL'S REPORT. + +The following official report of Major Mitchell will sufficiently point +out the incorrectness of the preceding statement. It is most probable +that Barber merely told that which he had heard from the natives, and +that having a more than ordinary share of cunning, he made up a story +upon their vague and uncertain accounts, in hopes that it would benefit +him, as in truth it did. + + +* * * * * + + + Bullabalakit, on the River Nammoy, + in lat. 30 degrees 38 minutes 21 seconds S., + long. 149 degrees 30 minutes 20 seconds E. + 23d December, 1831. + +SIR, + +I have the honour to state, for the information of His Excellency the +Governor, the progress I have made in exploring the course of the +interior waters to the northward of the Colony, with reference to the +letter which I had the honour to address to Col. Lindesay, on this +subject, on the 19th ult. + +On crossing Liverpool Range my object was to proceed northward, so as +to avoid the plains and head the streams which water them, and avoiding +also the mountain ranges on the east. + +I arrived accordingly, by a tolerably straight and level line, at +Walamoul, on Peel's River; this place (a cattle station of Mr. Brown) +being nearly due north from the common pass across Liverpool Range, and +about a mile-and-a-half above the spot where Mr. Oxley crossed this +river. + +PEEL'S RIVER. + +I found the general course of the Peel below Walamoul to be nearly +west; and after tracing this river downwards twenty-two miles (in +direct distance), I crossed it at an excellent ford, named Wallamburra. +I then traversed the extensive plain of Mulluba; and leaving that of +Coonil on the right, extending far to the north-east, we passed through +a favourable interval of what I considered Hardwicke's Range, the +general direction of this range being two points west of north. + +On passing through this gorge, which, from the name of a hill on the +south side, may be named Ydire, I crossed a very extensive tract of +flat country, on which the wood consisted of iron-bark and acacia +pendula; this tract being part of a valley evidently declining to the +north-west, which is bounded on the south by the Liverpool Range, and +on the south-west by the extremities from the same. On the west, at a +distance of twenty-two miles from Hardwicke's Range, there stands a +remarkable isolated hill named Bounalla; and towards the lowest part of +the country, and in the direction in which all the waters tend, there +is a rocky peak named Tangulda. On the north, a low range (named Wowa), +branching westerly from Hardwicke's Range, bounds on that side this +extensive basin, which includes Liverpool Plains. Peel's River is the +principal stream, and receives, in its course, all the waters of these +plains below the junction of Connadilly,--which I take to be York's +River, of Oxley. + +THE RIVER NAMMOY. + +The stream is well known to the natives by the name Nammoy; and six +miles below Tangulda, the low extremities from the surrounding ranges +close on the river, and separate this extensive vale from the +unexplored country which extends beyond to an horizon which is unbroken +between W.N.W. and N.N.W. + + +The impracticable appearance of the mountains to the northward, induced +me to proceed thus far to the west; and on examining the country thirty +miles N.E. by N. from Tangulda, I ascended a lofty range extending +westward from the coast chain, and on which the perpendicular sides of +masses of trachyte (a volcanic rock) were opposed to my further +progress even with horses: it was therefore evident that the river +supposed to rise about the latitude of 28 degrees would not be +accessible, or at least available to the Colony, in that direction, and +that in the event of the discovery of a river beyond that range flowing +to the northern or north-western shores, it would become of importance +to ascertain whether it was joined by the Nammoy, the head of this +river being so accessible that I have brought my heavily laden drays to +where it is navigable for boats, my present encampment being on its +banks six miles below Tangulda. From this station I can perceive the +western termination of the Trachytic range, and I am now about to +explore the country between it and the Nammoy, and the further course +of this river; and in the event of its continuance in a favourable +direction, I shall fix my depot on its right bank, whence I now write, +and descend the stream in the portable boats. + + I have the honour to be, Sir, + Your most obedient servant, + T. L. MITCHELL, + SURVEYOR-GENERAL + +The Hon. The Colonial Secretary. + + +* * * * * + + +Peel's River, 29th February, 1832. + +SIR, + +I have the honour to inform you, for the information of His Excellency +the Governor, that I have reached the left bank of this River with my +whole party on my return from the northern interior, having explored +the course of the river referred to in my letter of 22nd December last, +and others within the 29th parallel of latitude. + +There was so much fallen timber in the Nammoy, and its waters were so +low, that the portable boats could not be used on that river with +advantage, and I proceeded by land in a north-west direction, until +convinced by its course turning more to the westward that this river +joined the river Darling. I therefore quitted its banks with the +intention of exploring the country further northward, by moving round +the western extremities of the mountains mentioned in my former letter, +and which I have since distinguished in my map by the name of the +Lindesay Range. These mountains terminate abruptly on the west, and I +entered a fine open country at their base, from whence plains (or +rather open ground of gentle undulation) extended westward as far as +could be seen. On turning these mountains I directed my course +northward, and to the eastward of north, into the country beyond them, +in search of the river KINDUR; and I reached a river flowing westward, +the bed of which was deep, broad, and permanent, but in which there was +not then much water. + +THE RIVER KARAULA. + +The marks of inundation on trees, and on the adjoining high ground, +proved that its floods rose to an extraordinary height; and from the +latitude, and also from the general direction of its course, I +considered this to be the river which Mr. Cunningham named the Gwydir, +on crossing it sixty miles higher, on his route to Moreton Bay. I +descended this river, and explored the country on its left bank for +about eighty miles to the westward, when I found that its general +course was somewhat to the southward of west. This river received no +addition from the mountains over that part of its left bank traversed +by me; and the heat being intense, the stream was at length so reduced +that I could step across it. The banks had become low, and the bed much +contracted, being no longer gravelly, but muddy. I therefore crossed +this river and travelled northward, on a meridian line, until, in the +latitude of 29 degrees 2 minutes, I came upon the largest river I had +yet seen. The banks were earthy and broken, the soil being loose, and +the water of a white muddy colour. Trees, washed out by the roots from +the soft soil, filled the bed of this river in many places. There was +abundance of cod-fish of a small size, as well as of the two other +kinds of fish which we had caught in the Peel, the Nammoy, and the +Gwydir. The name of this river, as well as we could make it out from +the natives, was Karaula. Having made fast one tree to top of another +tall tree, I obtained a view of the horizon, which appeared perfectly +level, and I was in hopes that we had at length found a river which +would flow to the northward and avoid the Darling. I accordingly +ordered the boat to be put together, and sent Mr. White with a party +some miles down to clear away any trees in the way. Mr. White came upon +a rocky fall, and found besides the channel so much obstructed by +trees, and the course so tortuous, that I determined to ascertain +before embarking upon it, whether the general course was in the desired +direction. Leaving Mr. White with half the party, I accordingly traced +the Karaula downwards, and found that its course changed to south, a +few miles below where I had made it, and that it was joined by the +Gwydir only eight miles below where I had crossed that river. +Immediately below the junction of the Gwydir (which is in latitude 29 +degrees 30 minutes 27 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 13 minutes 20 +seconds) the course of the river continues southward of west, directly +towards where Captain Sturt discovered the River Darling; and I could +no longer doubt that this was the same river. I therefore returned to +the party, determined to explore the country further northward. + +The results of my progress thus far were sufficient, I considered, to +prove that the division of the waters falling towards the northern and +southern shores of Australia is not, as has been supposed, in the +direction of the Liverpool and Warrabangle range, but extends between +Cape Byron on the eastern shore, towards Dick Hartog's Island on the +west; the greater elongation of this country being between these +points, and intermediate between the lines of its northern and southern +coasts. The basin of the streams I have been upon must be bounded on +the north by this dividing ground or water-shed, and although no rise +was perceptible in the northern horizon, the river was traversed by +several rocky dykes, over which it fell southward; their direction +being oblique to the course, and nearly parallel to this division of +the waters. I beg leave to state, that I should not feel certain on +this point without having seen more, were it not evident from Mr. +Cunningham's observations, made on crossing this division on his way to +Moreton Bay. Mr. Cunningham, on crossing the head of this river, nearly +in the same latitude, but much nearer its sources, found the height of +its bed above the sea to be 840 feet; at about forty-five miles further +northward the ground rose to upwards of 1700 feet, but immediately +beyond, he reached a river flowing north-west, the height of which was +only 1400 feet above the sea. He had thus crossed this dividing higher +ground, between the parallels of 29 degrees and 28 degrees. It appears, +therefore, that all the interior rivers we know of to the northward of +the Morumbidgee, belong to the basin of the Karaula; this stream +flowing southward, and hence the disappearance of the Macquarie and +other lower rivers may be understood, for all along the banks of the +Karaula, the Gwydir, and the Nammoy, the country, though not swampy, +bears marks of frequent inundation; thus the floods occasioned by these +rivers united, cover the low country, and receive the Macquarie so that +no channel marks its further course. + +That a basin may be found to the northward receiving the waters of the +northern part of the coast range in a similar manner is extremely +probable, and that they form a better river, because the angle is more +acute between the high ground, which must bound it on the N.E. and the +watershed on the south. I therefore prepared to cross the Karaula, in +hopes of seeing the head at least of such a river, and to explore the +country two degrees further northward, but moving in a N.W. direction. +My tent was struck, and I had just launched my portable boat for the +purpose of crossing the river, when Mr. Surveyor Finch, whom I had +instructed to bring up a supply of flour, arrived with the distressing +intelligence, that two of his men had been killed by the natives, who +had taken the flour, and were in possession of everything he had +brought--all the cattle, including his horse, being also dispersed or +lost. I therefore determined not to extend my excursion further, as the +party were already on reduced rations, and on the 8th instant I retired +from the Karaula, returning by the marked line, which being cut through +thick scrubs in various places, is now open, forming a tolerably direct +line of communication in a N.W. direction from Sydney, to a river, +beyond which the survey may be extended whenever His Excellency the +Governor thinks fit. + +The natives had never troubled my party on our advance; indeed I only +saw them when I came upon them by surprise, and then they always ran +off. Their first visit was received at my camp on the Karaula, during +my absence down that river, when they were very friendly, but much +disposed to steal. Various tribes followed us on coming back, but never +with any show of hostility, although moving in tribes of a hundred or +more parallel to our marked line, or in our rear; it was necessary to +be ever on our guard, and to encamp in strong positions only, arranging +the drays for defence during the night: three men were always under +arms, and I have much pleasure in stating, that throughout the whole +excursion, and under circumstances of hardship and privation, the +conduct of the men was very good. I took an armed party to the scene of +pillage, and buried the bodies of the two men, who appeared to have +been treacherously murdered while asleep by the blacks during the +absence of Mr. Finch: no natives were to be found when I visited the +spot, although it appeared from columns of smoke on hills which +overlooked if, that they were watching our movements. + +The party has now arrived within a day's journey of Brown's station, +and I have instructed Assistant-Surveyor White (from whom I have +received great assistance during the whole journey) to conduct it +homewards, being desirous to proceed without delay to Sydney, and to +receive the instructions of His Excellency the Governor. + + I have the honour to be, Sir, + Your most obedient Servant, + T. L. MITCHELL, + SURVEYOR-GENERAL. + +THE HON. THE COLONIAL SECRETARY, "&c. &c. &c." + + + + +Chapter VI. + + +CONCLUDING REMARKS + + +Obstacles that attend travelling into the interior of +Australia--Difficulty of carrying supplies--Importance of steady +intelligent subordinates--Danger from the natives--Number of men +requisite,--and of cattle and carriages--Provisions--Other +arrangements--Treatment of the natives--Dimensions of the boat used in +the second expedition. + + +Having now had considerable experience in the fitting out and +management of expeditions in New South Wales, I cannot refrain from +making some few observations on the subject. And without presuming to +lay dawn any fixed rules, I shall only refer to those by which I have +best succeeded, in hopes that some of my remarks may prove of use to +future travellers who may venture to penetrate into the trackless +deserts over so small a portion of which I wandered. + +DIFFICULTIES OF EXPLORING AUSTRALIA. + +The great difficulty of examining the interior of Australia, is that of +carrying supplies; for increasing the number of individuals composing +an expedition is of no avail, since an additional number of men must +necessarily increase the consumption of food. In order to meet this +difficulty it has been proposed to establish depots upon which an +expedition could fall back to recruit its supplies, and in ordinary +cases this plan might answer; but I am decidedly of opinion that no +party could long remain stationary in the distant interior without some +fatal collision with the natives, which would be attended with the most +deplorable consequences; and I do think, considering all things, that +the experiment is too dangerous to be tried; for when I reached Mount +Harris, on my first retreat from the Darling, I found the party who +were awaiting me, with a supply of provisions, under very great alarm, +in consequence of the hostile proceedings of the Mount Harris tribe. +The men had been obliged to put the camp into a state of defence. The +blacks had attempted to surprise them, and would, had I not returned, +have combined in some general attack. It appears to me that the most +judicious plan would be to send a supply of provisions, with an +expedition, to a distant point, under the charge of a minor party. +These provisions could replace those already expended, and the animals +that carried them could be taken back. + +SELECTION OF SUBORDINATES. + +The number of individuals of which the expedition down the banks of the +Macquarie was composed, was fourteen: that is to say, myself, Mr. Hume, +two soldiers, one free man, and seven prisoners of the crown. The +latter behaved, on all occasions, as steadily as it was possible for +men to do. Yet the circumstance of the two soldiers being with me +increased my confidence in the whole, for I was aware that their +example would influence the rest. However well disposed the prisoners +of the crown may be, (as in this instance they certainly were,) the +beneficial example of steady discipline cannot be denied. I should not +have considered myself justified in leaving the camp as I did for a +week, and in detaching Mr. Hume at the same time when at the bottom of +the marshes, or in making the last effort to maintain our position on +the banks of the Darling, if I had not reposed every confidence in the +man to whom I entrusted the safety of the camp during my absence. + +Experience, therefore, of the value of the two soldiers, whom General +Darling was good enough to permit me to take on the strength of the +party, fully bears me out in recommending that one man, at least, of +general responsibility shall be attached to all future expeditions. The +success of an expedition depends so much on the conduct of the persons +of whom it is composed, that too much attention cannot be given to the +selection even of the most subordinate. Men of active intelligent +minds, of persevering habits, and of even temper, should be preferred +to mechanics who do not possess these most requisite qualities. On the +other hand, it is impossible to do without a good carpenter, however +defective he may be in other respects. I was indebted to Mr. Maxwell, +the superintendent of Wellington Valley, for some excellent men, both +on my first and on my second journey, because he understood the nature +of the service for which they were required, and the characters of +those whom he recommended. But however well selected the party, or the +men rather, might be, I still consider a man of general responsibility +necessary for its complete organisation. I would have him somewhat +superior to the rest in his station in life. Him I would hold +answerable for the immediate discipline of the camp, whilst I was +present, and for its safety when absent. The assistant to the leader I +would put entirely out of the question. He has other and most important +duties to perform. I would rate this man wholly independent of him. + +DANGER OF COLLISION WITH THE NATIVES. + +In reference to what I have already said with regard to the natives, it +was supposed that they were so little to be apprehended, that when I +went on the first occasion into the interior, I applied for a limited +number of men only, under an impression that with a few men I could +carry provisions equal to a consumption of a greater number, and by +this means be enabled to keep the field for a greater length of time. +But I do not think it would be safe to penetrate into the distant +country with fewer than fifteen men, for although, happily, no rupture +has as yet taken place with the natives, yet, there is no security +against their treachery, and it is very certain that a slight cause +might involve an expedition in inextricable difficulty, and oblige the +leader to throw himself on the defensive, when far away from other +resources than those with which he should have provided himself, and +that, perhaps, when navigating a close and intricate river, with all +the dangers and perplexities attendant on such a situation. It is +absolutely necessary to establish nightly guards, not only for the +security of the camp, but of the cattle, and at the same time to have a +force strong enough to maintain an obstinate resistance against any +number of savages, where no mercy is to be expected. It will be borne +in mind, that there is a wide difference between penetrating into a +country in the midst of its population, and landing from ships for the +purpose of communication or traffic. Yet, how few voyages of discovery +have terminated without bloodshed! Boats while landing are covered by +their ships, and have succour within view; but not so parties that go +into unknown tracts. They must depend on their immediate resources and +individual courage alone. + +PACK-OXEN, HORSES, WHEEL-CARRIAGES. + +With regard to the animals, I should recommend an equal number of +horses as of bullocks; since it has been found that the latter, though +slow, travel better over swampy ground than horses, which, on the other +hand, are preferable for expeditious journeys, to which bullocks would +never be equal. One of the colonial pack-saddles weighs fifty pounds +complete, and is preferable to those sent out from England. This, with +a load of 250 lbs. is sufficient for any animal, since it enables the +men to place a part of their provisions with the general loads. The +difficulty of keeping the backs of the animals free from injury, more +especially where any blemish has before existed, is exceedingly great. +They should undergo an examination twice a-day, that is, in the morning +prior to moving off, and in the afternoon before they are turned out to +feed; and measures should then be taken to ease them as circumstances +require. I never suffered the saddles to be removed from the backs of +the animals under my charge for twenty minutes after the termination of +the journey for the day, in order to guard against the effects of the +sun; and where the least swelling appeared the saddle was altered and +the place dressed. Yet, notwithstanding all this care and attention, +several both of the horses and bullocks were at one time in a sad +condition, during the first journey,--so much so as almost to paralyse +our efforts. It would be advisable that such animals as are entirely +free from blemish should be chosen for the service of expeditions, for, +with proper management they might be kept in order. The anxiety of mind +attendant on a bad state of the animals is really quite embarrassing, +for it not only causes a delay in the movements, but a derangement in +the loads. Other animals are overburdened, and there is no knowing +where the evil will stop. + +In addition to the pack-animals, I would recommend the employment of a +dray or cart under any practicable circumstances. It serves to carry +necessary comforts, gives an expedition greater facility for securing +its collections, and is of inconceivable advantage in many other +respects. + +ISSUE OF PROVISIONS. + +Constant and most earnest attention should be paid to the issue of +provisions, on the discreet management of which so much depends, and +the charge of them should be committed to the second in command. The +most important articles are flour, tea, sugar, and tobacco. All should +be husbanded with extreme care, and weighed from time to time. The +flour is best carried in canvass bags, containing 100 pounds each, and +should at the termination of each day's journey, be regularly piled up +and covered with a tarpaulin. Tea, sugar and tobacco lose considerably +in weight, so that it is necessary to estimate for somewhat more than +the bare supply. With regard to the salt meat, the best mode of +conveying it appears to be in small barrels of equal weight with the +bags of flour. Salt pork is better than beef. It should be deprived of +all bones and be of the very best quality. I have heard spirits +recommended, but I do not approve their use. Tea is much more relished +by the men; indeed they could not do well without it. A small quantity +of spirits would, however, of course be necessary in the event of its +being required. + +LIVE STOCK. + +Mr. Cornelius O'Brien, an enterprising and long-established settler, +who has pushed his flocks and herds to the banks of the Morumbidgee, +was good enough to present me with eight wethers as I passed his +station. It may be some gratification to Mr. O'Brien to know, that they +contributed very materially to our comforts, and he will, perhaps, +accept my acknowledgements in this place, not only for so liberal a +present to myself, but for his attention and kindness to my men as long +as they remained in his neighbourhood. It was found that the sheep gave +but little additional trouble, requiring only to be penned at night, as +much to secure them from the native dogs as to prevent them from +straying away. They followed the other animals very quietly, and soon +became accustomed to daily movements. They proved a most available +stock; no waste attended their slaughter, and they admitted of a +necessary and wholesome change of fresh food from the general salt +diet, on which the men would otherwise have had to subsist. + +The provisions should, if possible, be issued weekly, and their +diminution should be so regulated as to give an equal relief to the +animals. + +For general information I have annexed a list of the supplies I took +with me on my first expedition. It may appear long, but the articles +were packed in a small compass, and their value immaterial. + +As a precautionary measure I should advise, that one of the pack +animals be kept apart for the purpose of carrying water. Two casks of +equal weight are the best for such a purpose. In long and hot marches, +the men experience great relief from having water at hand. + +INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES. + +In reference to the natives, I hope sufficient has been said of the +manner of communicating with them to prevent the necessity of a +repetition here. The great point is not to alarm their natural +timidity: to exercise patience in your intercourse with them; to treat +them kindly; and to watch them with suspicion, especially at night. +Never permit the men to steal away from the camp, but keep them as +compact as possible; and at every station so arrange your drays and +provisions that they may serve as a defence in case of your being +attacked. + +The natives appeared to me to be indifferent to our presents, in most +cases. Tomahawks, knives, pieces of iron, and different coloured +ribbons for the forehead, were most esteemed by them. They will barter +and exchange their fish for articles, and readily acquire confidence. + +I believe I have now touched on all the more important points: on minor +ones no observation I can make will be of use; men must, in many +things, be guided by circumstances. + +* * * * * + +WHALE BOAT EMPLOYED ON THE SECOND EXPEDITION. + +I may here notice that, in my second expedition, as it was anticipated +that I should require adequate provision for water conveyance, at one +stage or other of my journey down the Morumbidgee, I was furnished with +a whale-boat, the dimensions of which are given below. She was built by +Mr. Egan, the master builder of the dock-yard and a native of the +colony, and did great credit to his judgment. She carried two tons and +a half of provisions, independently of a locker, which I appropriated +for the security of the arms, occupying the space between the +after-seat and the stern. She was in the first instance put together +loosely, her planks and timbers marked, and her ring bolts, &c. fitted. +She was then taken to pieces, carefully packed up, and thus conveyed in +plank into the interior, to a distance of four hundred and forty miles, +without injury. She was admirably adapted for the service, and rose as +well as could have been expected over the seas in the lake. It was +evident, however, that she would have been much safer if she had had +another plank, for she was undoubtedly too low. The following were her +dimensions:-- + + Breadth across 7th timber aft, 5 ft. 1/2 an inch outside. + Across 12th timber, 5 ft. 11 1/4 in. + Across 17th timber forward, 5 ft. + 25 ft. 8 in. in length inside. + Curve of the keel No. 1, from the after side of each apron, 3 ft. 3 3/4in. + No. 2, from head to head of the dead wood, 13 1/2 in. + No. 3, from one end of keel to the other inner side, 3 in. + No. 4, round of keel from the toe of each dead wood, 7/8 1/16th. + The timbers were marked, beginning from the stern to the bow on the + starboard side, and from bow to stern on the larboard. + + + + +APPENDIX No. I. + +LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS. + + +By His Excellency Lieutenant General Ralph Darling, Commanding His +Majesty's Forces, Captain-General and Governor-in-Chief of the +Territory of New South Wales, and its dependencies, and Vice Admiral of +the same, &c. &c. &c. + +TO CHARLES STURT, ESQ. CAPTAIN IN THE 39TH REGIMENT OF FOOT. + +Whereas it has been judged expedient to fit out an expedition for the +purpose of exploring the interior of New Holland, and the present dry +season affords a reasonable prospect of an opportunity of ascertaining +the nature and extent of the large marsh or marshes which stopped the +progress of the late John Oxley Esq, Surveyor General, in following the +courses of the rivers Lachlan and Macquarie in the years 1817 and 1818. +And whereas I repose full confidence in your abilities and zeal for +conducting such an expedition, I do hereby constitute and appoint you +to command and take charge of the expedition now preparing for the +purpose of exploring the interior of the country, and for ascertaining, +if practicable, the nature and extent of the marsh or marshes above +mentioned. + +In the prosecution of this service, you will be guided generally by the +following instructions. + +1. You will be accompanied on this expedition by Mr. Hamilton Hume, +whose great experience in travelling through the remote parts of the +Colony, cannot fail to be highly useful to you. You will also be +attended by two soldiers and six convicts, of whom one is to understand +the shoeing of horses, one to be a carpenter, one a harness-maker and +three stock-men, and you will be provided with six horses and twelve +bullocks. + +2. A small boat has been built here for the use of the expedition, and +for its conveyance, there is provided a light four-wheeled carriage to +be drawn by two bullocks. + +The deputy Commissary General has received orders for supplying the +expedition with provisions of the best quality sufficient for six +months' consumption, together with tents, blankets, clothing, +pack-saddles, utensils, instruments, tools, and necessaries of all +kinds of which you are likely to stand in need. Orders are also given +for providing you with arms and ammunition, with rockets for signals, +and an ample supply of simple medicines--You are to consider it an +important duty to attend to the providing of all these supplies, and to +take care that not only every article is of the best quality that can +be procured, but also that no article be wanting with which you may +desire to be provided. + +3. Orders are given for forwarding without delay all your provisions, +stores and supplies of every kind to Wellington Valley, at which place, +you, Mr. Hume, and all your men are to rendezvous as soon as possible. +Mr Maxwell, the superintendent, will furnish you with well-trained +bullocks, and afford you all the assistance you may require in +arranging every thing for your departure from that station. + +4. After you shall have completed all your arrangements, you are to +lose no time in finally departing from Wellington Valley in prosecution +of the immediate objects of the expedition. + +5. You are first to proceed to Mount Harris, where you are to form a +temporary depot, by means of which you will have an opportunity of more +readily communicating with Mr. Maxwell. + +6. You are then to endeavour to determine the fate of the Macquarie +River, by tracing it as far as possible beyond the point to which Mr. +Oxley went, and by pushing westward, you are to ascertain if there be +any high lands in that direction, or if the country be, as it is +supposed, an unbroken level and under water. If you should fail in +these objects, you will traverse the plains lying behind our north-west +boundaries, with a view to skirt any waters by which you may have been +checked to the westward; and if you should succeed in skirting them, +you are to explore the country westward and southward as far as +possible, endeavouring to discover the Macquarie beyond the marsh of +Mr. Oxley, and following it to its mouth if at all practicable. + +7. There is some reason to believe that the over-flowing of the +Macquarie when visited by Mr. Oxley, was occasioned by heavy rains +falling in the mountains to the eastward, and that as you are to visit +the same spot at a different season of the year, you may escape such +embarrassment; but although you should get beyond the point at which +Mr. Oxley stopped, it would not be prudent to risk your own health or +that of your men, by continuing long in a swampy country. Therefore it +may be advisable for you in the first instance to leave the greater +part of your men, bullocks, and baggage, at Mount Harris, and if you +should see a probability of your being able to cross into the interior, +you will then return to Mount Harris for such additional supplies as +you may judge necessary. You can there communicate with Mr. Maxwell +respecting any ulterior arrangements which you may be desirous of +making. + +8. The success of the expedition is so desirable an object, that I +cannot too strongly impress upon you the importance of perseverance in +endeavouring to skirt any waters or marshes which may check your course +as long as you have provisions sufficient for your return; but you must +be cautious not to proceed a single day's journey further than where +you find that your provisions will be barely sufficient to enable you +to reach the nearest place at which you can depend upon getting +supplies. + +9. If after every endeavour you should find it totally impracticable to +get to the westward, you are still to proceed northward, keeping as +westerly a direction as possible; and when the state of your provisions +will oblige you to retreat, you will be guided by your latitude, as to +the place to which you are to make the best of your way, but you are +not to make for any place on the coast, if Wellington valley should +still be nearer. + +10. You must be aware that the success of the expedition will greatly +depend upon the time for which your provisions will hold out, and +therefore you will see the great importance of observing every possible +economy in the expenditure of provisions, and preventing waste of every +kind. + +11. You are to keep a detailed account of your proceedings in a +journal, in which all observations and occurrences of every kind, with +all their circumstances, however minute, are to be carefully noted +down. You are to be particular in describing the general face of all +the country through which you pass, the direction and shape of the +mountains, whether detached or in ranges, together with the bearings +and estimated distances of the several mountains, hills, or eminences +from each other. You are likewise to note the nature of the climate, as +to heat, cold, moisture, winds, rains, &c., and to keep a register of +the temperature from Fahrenheit's thermometer, as observed at two or +three periods of each day. The rivers, with their several branches, +their direction, velocity, breadth, and depth, are carefully to be +noted. It is further expected that you will, as far as may be in your +power, attend to the animal, vegetable, and mineral productions of the +country, noting down every thing that may occur to you, and preserving +specimens as far as your means will admit, especially some of all the +ripe seeds which you may discover; when the preservation of specimens +is impossible, drawings or detailed accounts of them, are very +desirable. + +12. You will note the description of the several people whom you may +meet, the extent of the population, their means of subsistence, their +genius and disposition, the nature of their amusements, their diseases +and remedies, their objects of worship, religious ceremonies, and a +vocabulary of their language. + +Lastly. On your return from your journey, you are to cause all the +journals or other written documents belonging to, and curiosities +collected by the several individuals composing the expedition, to be +carefully sealed up with your own seal and kept in that state until you +shall have made your report to me in writing of the result of the +expedition. + +Given at Sydney, this eighteenth day of November, 1828. By Command of +His Excellency the Governor, ALEXANDER M'LEAY. + + + + +APPENDIX No. II. + +LIST OF STORES SUPPLIED FOR THE EXPEDITION. + + +List of Articles delivered from His Majesty's Stores, in charge of D. +A. C. Goodsir, to Captain Sturt, viz.-- + + 1 Hack saddle. 9 Harness casks. + 1 Bridle. 23 Canvas bags. + 2 Tents. 4 Tin cases. + 14 Pack saddles. 16 Padlocks. + 14 Pair hobbles. 6 Tarpaulens. + 24 Sets horse shoes. 10 Haversacks. + 2000 Horse nails. 113 Fathom one-inch rope. + 113 Fathoms 1 1/2 inch rope. 1 Boat compass. + 1 Hammer, (Blacksmith's) 1 Telescope. + 1 Paring knife. 1 Spare glass for ditto. + 2 Chipping do. 1 Tin case (for charts.) + 2 Rasps. 100 Fish-hooks, (large.) + 1 Pair pincers. 12 Fishing-lines. + 1 Cutter. 10 Knives. + 2lb. Pack thread. 10 Forks. + 24 Needles. 10 Spoons. + 1/4lb. Bristles. 2 Frying-pans. + 7lbs. Leather. 2 Tinder-boxes. + 1/2lb. Thread. 1 Tea-kettle, (tin.) + 1 Pair of steelyards. 10 Tin dishes. + 10 Tin pots. 8 Jackets. + 1 Flour seive. 8 Duck frocks. + 2 Felling-axes. 8 Shirts. + 4 Tomahawks. 16 Trousers. + 2 Hammers. 24 Pair shoes. + 1 Hand-saw. 16 Blankets. + 3 Bill-hooks. 16 Pair stockings. + 3 Awls. 2 Bullock collars. + 3 Broad hoes. 2 Do. back-bands and pipes. + 4 Razors. 2 Leading cruppers. + 4 Brushes. 1 Boat with sail and oars. + 4 Combs. 1 Do. carriage. + 3 Iron pots, (camp kettles.) 1 Canvass boat-cover. + 1 Pair scissors. 3 Water breaker. + + COMMISSARIAT OFFICE, SYDNEY, NOV. 10TH, 1828. + + P.S.--l Tarpaulin. + Large Fish-hook. + 1 Tin tea-kettle. + 1 Camp kettle. + Pitch and oil. + Hemp or twine. + + + + +APPENDIX No. III. + +SHEEP-FARMING RETURNS, SHOWING THE INCREASE IN FOUR YEARS, from two +Breeding Flocks, consisting of 670 Ewes in Lamb. + + + (A.)--1st JUNE, 1828. + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Flocks. Breeding Ewes. Lambs. Total. Remarks. + + 2 yrs. old. 3 yrs. old. Male.-Female. + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Lambs. + No. 1 330 148 149 627 Deaths 6. Incr.297 + No. 2 330 154 154 638 4 308 + ---- -- --- + * 1265 10 605 + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + * The increase throughout these returns is calculated at from 270 to 290 + Lambs, to 300 Ewes, which is the usual average in N.S.W. + + + ABSTRACT. + + Purchased two Flocks of Ewes, at 84s.............................670 Ewes. + Increase of Lambs.......................................... 605 + Casual Deaths............................................... 10 + 595 + --- + Total as per Return............................................ 1265 + + + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + (B.)--1st JUNE, 1829. + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks. + | Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.| + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + No. Lambs. + 1 3-yr. 327 154 154 635 Deaths 3 Incr.308 + 2 4-yr. 326 155 155 636 4 310 + 3 1-yr. 302 302 1 --- + 4 1-yr. 302 18 320 -- 618 + ---- 8 + 1893 + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + +ABSTRACT. + + Return (A) Total...............................................1265 + Increase by Lambing....................................618 + Ditto Rams purchased....................................18 + --- + 636 + Casual Deaths......................................... 8 628 + ---- + Total as per return............................................1893 + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + (C.)--1st JUNE, 1830. + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks. + | Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.| + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + No. Lambs. + 1 2-yr. 296 133 154 562 Deaths 6 Incr.266 + 2 4-yr. 325 150 155 625 2 300 + 3 5-yr. 326 160 646 320 + 4 2-yr. 302 27 329 --- + 5 1-yr. 309 309 886 + 6 1-yr. 309 309 --- + ---- 3 Rams died + 2780 12 ditto purchased + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + ABSTRACT. + + Return (B) Total............................................ 1893 + Increase by Lambing....................................886 + Ditto Rams purchased....................................12 + --- + 898 + Deaths............................................... 11 887 + ---- + Total as per return......................................... 2780 + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + (D.)--1st JUNE, 1831. + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks. + | Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.| + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + No. Lambs. + 1 2-yr. 304 136 136 576 Deaths 5 Incr.272 + 2 3-yr. 293 135 136 564 3 271 + 3 5-yr. 324 156 156 636 1 312 + 4 6-yr. 320 156 156 632 2 312 + Killed 4 --- + 5 3-yr. 300 300 Deaths 2 1167 + 6 2-yr. 308 308 1 + 7 1-yr 443 443 + 8 1-yr 442 442 1 + 9 40 40 5 + ---- -- + 3941 20 + Purchased 12 + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + ABSTRACT. + + Return (C) Total............................................ 2780 + Increase by Lambing...................................1167 + Ditto Rams purchased....................................18 + --- + 1185 + Casual deaths 20 ...Killed for use 4 ................. 24 1161 + ---- + Total as per return.......................................... 3941 + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + (E.)--1st JUNE, 1832. + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks. + | Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.| + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + No. Lambs. + 1 2-yr. 344 154 154 652 Deaths 6 Incr.308 + 2 3-yr. 344 162 161 667 4 323 + 4 3-yr. 342 164 165 671 3 329 + 5 6-yr. 320 155 155 630 2 310 + 6 7-yr. 300 145 145 590 2 290 + 7 4-yr. 300 300 ---- + 1560 + 8 3-yr 302 302 2 + 9 2-yr 440 440 1 + 10 1-yr 583 583 + 11 1-yr 584 584 + 12 45 45 5 Purch. 10 + ---- ---- ---- --- --- --- ---- + 1650 584 1625 45 780 780 5464 + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + ABSTRACT. + + Return (D) Total............................................ 3941 + Increase by Lambing...................................1560 + Ditto Rams purchased....................................10 + --- + 1570 + Decrease by casual death .............................. 25 + Decrease by slaughter for use ......................... 22 + --- + 1523 + ---- + Grand Total .............................. 5464 as above + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + MEMORANDUM,--The deaths have been calculated at the lowest rate under the + best management. It may be safer to assume a rate of four or five per + cent. per annum. + + + + Account of Expenditure and Income upon Sheep Stock in Australia, + appended to Returns A. B. C. D. and E. + 1st YEAR, (RETURN A.) JUNE, 1829. + + INCOME. + By 11265 fleeces, average weight 2 1/4 lbs. 284 lbs + wool at 1s. 6d. per lb. 213 9 0 + EXPENDITURE. + To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0 + To 1 Watchman at 20 20 0 O PROFIT. + To Hurdles, &c. 10 0 0 + -------- 90 0 0 + -------- 123 9 0 + + 2nd YEAR, (B.) JUNE, 1830. + + INCOME. + By 1893 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 4259lbs. wool at + 1s. 6d. 319 8 6 + EXPENDITURE. + To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0 + To 2 Ditto 20 40 0 0 + To 1 Watchman 20 0 0 + To Hurdles &c. 5 0 0 + --------- + 125 0 0 + To 18 Rams at 10 pounds* 180 0 0 + --------- + 305 0 0 + --------- + 14 8 6 + *The price of rams will probably fall to 5 pounds + + 3rd YEAR, (C.) JUNE, 1831. + + INCOME. + By 2780 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 6255lbs. wool at + 1s. 6d. 469 2 6 + EXPENDITURE. + To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0 + To 2 Ditto 25 25 0 0 + To 3 Ditto 20 60 0 0 + To 2 Watchman 20 40 0 0 + To Hurdles &c. 10 0 0 + --------- + 195 0 0 + To 12 Rams at 10 pounds 120 0 0 + --------- + 315 0 0 + --------- + 154 2 6 + + 4th YEAR, (D.) JUNE, 1832. + + INCOME. + By 3941 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 8867lbs. wool at + 1s. 6d. 665 0 0 + EXPENDITURE. + To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0 + To 2 Ditto 25 50 0 0 + To 4 Ditto 20 80 0 0 + To 3 Watchman &c. 60 0 0 + (one to take charge of rams) + To Hurdles &c. 10 0 0 + --------- + 260 0 0 + To 18 Rams at 10 pounds 180 0 0 + --------- + 440 0 0 + --------- + 225 0 0 + + 5th YEAR, (E.) JUNE, 1833.* + + INCOME. + By 5464 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 12,294 lbs. wool at + 1s. 6d. 922 0 0 + EXPENDITURE. + To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0 + To 3 Ditto 25 75 0 0 + To 5 Ditto 20 100 0 0 + To 3 Watchman 20 60 0 0 + To Hurdles &c. 20 0 0 + --------- + 315 0 0 + To 10 Rams at 10 pounds 100 0 0 + --------- + 415 0 0 + --------- + 507 0 0 + ---------- + Net profit by sales of wool in 5 years 1024 0 0 + + 1024 0 0 divided by 5 gives 204 8 0 for annual interest on the + original capital of 2814 0 0, (about 7 1/4 percent per annum) + in addition to the accumulation of capital itself, shown by the + valuation of stock. + + *These accounts are a year in advance of the sheep returns, in order to + bring them to the time at which the wool would be sold. + + + VALUATION OF SHEEP, JUNE, 1832----(RETURN E.) + + 1614 Ewes from 1 to 4 years old at 3 pounds each 4842 0 O + 620 Do. 4 to 7 years old 2 1240 0 0 + 780 Female Lambs 2 1560 0 0 + 2405 Wethers and Male Lambs 15s. 1803 0 0 + 45 Rams (original cost, 450l.) 400 0 0 + ---------- + 9845 0 0 + + + +Note.--About 500 pounds would be added to the Income on the fifth year, +by the sale of wethers of 3 and 4 years old. + +The cost of rams ought, strictly speaking, to be added to capital, and +not deducted from Income; but these returns were made out in their +present form at the request of a gentleman proceeding to the Colony +with a limited capital, and who wished to know how much he might safely +invest in sheep. + + + + +APPENDIX No. IV. + +LIST OF GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED IN THE DISTANT INTERIOR DURING +THE FIRST EXPEDITION, WITH THEIR LOCALITIES AND THEIR RELATIVE +DISTANCES FROM EACH OTHER. + + +It may be necessary to observe that the height of the Cataract of the +Macquarie River above the sea, was ascertained by barometrical +admeasurement to be 650 feet. The country subsequently traversed is +considerably lower. The specimens refer only to the geological +formation of the distant interior. + +Schorl Rock.--Colour blueish grey, fine grained, extremely hard. +Composed of Tourmaline and Quartz. Forms the bed of the Macquarie at +the Cataract, 75 miles to the N.W. of Wellington Valley. + +Decomposed Mica Slate.--Colour white; yields to the knife; adheres +strongly to the tongue. + +Decomposed Feldspar.--Colour pale rose-pink; very fine grained; easily +scratched with the knife; adheres strongly to the tongue. + +Both specimens immediately succeed the Schorl rock at the Cataract, in +large smooth-sided masses. + +This formation may be said to terminate the rocks connected with the +dividing ranges, since it is the last that occurs at their western base. + +A little below the Cataract, the county undergoes a remarkable change, +and becomes extremely depressed. + +Porphyry with Feldspar.--Colour dull red, with white spots, or grey +with red spots; very hard, compact, sonorous, magnetic. [See pp. 27 and +115.] Composition of Mount Harris, a hill called by Mr. Oxley, elevated +about 170 feet above the level of the plains. It lies 65 miles to the +N.N.W. of the Cataract, and is about 16 miles distant from the first of +the marshes of the Macquarie. + +Porphyry with Feldspar.--Colour grey with red spots, similar to the +last. Was not observed to affect the needle. Formation of Mount Foster. +Mount Foster is more than 200 feet in height, and lies about 5 miles to +the N.N.W. of Mount Harris. From the summit of both, Arbuthnot's range +is visible, bearing nearly due east, distant 70 miles. [See page 28.] + +Quartz Rock varieties--Slaty Quartz varieties.--Composition of the +first elevations to the Westward of the marshes of the Macquarie, +called New Year's Range, a group of five hills. The loftiest about 200 +feet in elevation; distant about 80 miles to the N.W. of Mount Harris. + +Granite.--Colour red, coarse-grained. Composed of Quartz, Feldspar, and +Mica. + + Granite, Porphyritic.--Colour light red. Both occurring in the bed of +New Year's Creek, traversing it obliquely, and are visible for a few +hundred yards only. This granite occurs about 16 miles from the Range +in a N. by E. direction. + +Old Red Sandstone.--Composition of Oxley's Table Land, 500 feet above +the level of the plains. It is broken into two hills, that appear to +have been separated by some convulsion. [See page 81.] It bears N.W. by +W. from New Year's Range, distant 50 miles. + +Old Red Sandstone.--Composition of D'Urban's group. The highest +elevation ascended during the expedition, being nearly 600 feet above +the level of the plain in which it rises. It lies to the S.S.W. of +Oxley's Table Land, distant 40 miles, and the rock of which it is +composed is much harder and closer. + +Breccia.--Colour pale yellow, silicious cement. Composition of some +trifling elevations to the North of New-Year's range, with which it is +doubtful whether they are connected. + +Crystallized Sulphate of Lime.--Found imbedded in the alluvial soil +forming the banks of the Darling river. Occurring in a regular vein. +Soft, yielding to the nail; not acted on by acids.--See Plate. + +Breccia.--Pale ochre colour, silicious cement, extremely hard. +Cellular, and sharp edges to the fractured pebbles. Has apparently +undergone fusion. Occurs in the bed of the Darling in one place only. + +Sandstone Varieties.--Colour dull red and muddy white; appears like +burnt bricks; light, easily frangible; adheres to the tongue; occurs in +large masses in the bed of the Darling; probably in connection with the +rock-salt of the neighbourhood, which, from the number of brine springs +discovered feeding the river, must necessarily exist. + +Variety of the same description of rock. + +Jasper and Quartz.--Showing itself above the surface of a plain, from +which D'Urban's group bore S. 40 E. distant 33 miles. + +It is a remarkable fact, that not a pebble or a stone was picked up +during the progress of the expedition, on any one of the plains; and +that after it again left Mount Harris for the Castlereagh, the only +rock-formation discovered was a small Freestone tract near the Darling +river. There was not a pebble of any kind either in the bed of the +Castlereagh, or in the creeks falling into it. + + + + +APPENDIX No. V. + +OFFICIAL REPORTS TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT. + + +* * * * * + + +GOVERNMENT ORDER + +COLONIAL SECRETARY'S OFFICE, 23RD JANUARY, 1829. + +His Excellency the Governor has been pleased to order, that the +following communication, dated the 25th of December last, from Captain +Sturt, of the 39th Regiment, who is employed in an exploring expedition +into the interior of the country, be published for general information. + +By his Excellency's Command, + ALEXANDER M'LEAY. + + +* * * * * + + +WESTERN MARSHES, 25TH DECEMBER, 1828. + +SIR,--I do myself the honor to forward, for the Governor's perusal, a +copy of my journal up to the date of my arrival at Mount Harris. I +should not have directed the messenger to return so soon, had I not +subsequently advanced to Mount Foster, and surveyed the country from +that eminence. I could distinctly see Arbuthnot's Range to the +eastward. From that point the horizon appeared to me unbroken, but the +country to the northward and westward seemed to favour an attempt to +penetrate into it. I did not observe any sheet of water, and the course +of the Macquarie was lost in the woodlands below. + +Mr. Hume ascended the hill at sun-rise, and thought he could see +mountains to the north east, but at such a distance as to make it quite +a matter of uncertainty. Agreeing, however, in the prudence of an +immediate descent, we left our encampment on the morning of the 23rd, +under Mount Foster, to which we had removed from Mount Harris, and +pursued a north-north-west course to the spot on which we rest at +present. We passed some fine meadow land near the river, and were +obliged to keep wide of it in consequence of fissures in the ground. +Traversing a large and blasted plain, on which the sun's rays fell with +intense heat, and on which there was but little vegetation, we skirted +the first great morass, and made the river immediately beyond it. It is +of very considerable extent, the channel of the river passing through +it. We are encompassed on every side by high reeds, which exist in the +woods as well as in the plains. Mr. Hume and myself rode forward +yesterday through the second morass, and made the river on slightly +elevated ground, at a distance of about five miles; the country beyond +appeared to favour our object, and we, to-morrow, proceed with the +party to the north-west. The river seems to bend to the north-east; but +in this level country it is impossible to speak with certainty, or to +give any decided opinion of the nature of it, beyond the flats on which +we are travelling. The reeds to the north-east and northward extend +over a circumference of fifty miles; but if Mr. Hume really saw +mountains or rising ground in the former point, the apparent course of +the Macquarie is at once accounted for. The country, however, seems to +dip to the north, though generally speaking it is level, and I am +inclined to think that the state of the atmosphere caused a deception +in this appearance. + +I regret to add, that the effects of the sun on the plain over which we +passed on the 23rd produced a return of inflammation in the eyes of the +men, I have named in my journals, and caused the same in the eyes of +several others of my party. I halted, therefore, to expedite their +recovery. They are doing well now, and we can proceed in the cool of +the morning without any fear of their receiving injury by it. One of +the men, who were to return to Wellington Valley, was attacked slightly +with dysentery, but the medicines I gave him carried it off in the +course of a day or two. I have taken every precaution with regard to +the health of the men, in preparing them for the country into which +they are going; and I have to request that you will inform the governor +that the conduct of the whole party merits my approbation, and that I +have no fault to find. The men from Sydney are not so sharp as those +from Wellington Valley, but are equally well disposed. The animals, +both horses and bullocks, are in good order, and I find the two +soldiers of infinite service to me. The boat has received some damage +from exposure to intense heat, but is otherwise uninjured. We still +retain the carriage and have every prospect of dragging it on with us. + +His Excellency, having been good enough to order a fresh supply of +provisions to Wellington Valley, I have to beg they may be forwarded to +Mount Harris, and that the person in charge thereof be instructed to +remain at that station for one month. We shall, during the interval, +have examined the country to the north-west; and, in case we are forced +back, shall require a supply to enable us to proceed to the northward, +in furtherance of the views I have already had the honor to submit for +the Governor's approval. + +I have the honor to be, Sir, + Your most obedient and humble Servant, + CHARLES STURT, + Captain, 39th Regt. + + +THE HONOURABLE THE COLONIAL SECRETARY + + +* * * * * + + +GOVERNMENT ORDER. + +COLONIAL SECRETARY'S OFFICE, 6TH APRIL, 1829. + +His Excellency the Governor is pleased to direct that the following +interesting Report which has been received from Captain Sturt, 39th +Regiment, who has been employed for some months past, (as will be seen +on reference to the Government Order, No. 4, published with Captain +Sturt's First Report in the Sydney Gazette, of the 24th of January +last) in exploring the interior, be communicated for the information of +the public. + +It appears that the river Macquarie ceases to exist near the spot where +the expedition under the late Mr. Oxley terminated, which, from the +state of country at the time, being then flooded, could not be +ascertained; and that another river of no inconsiderable magnitude, fed +by salt springs, was discovered by Captain Sturt on the 2nd February +last, about 100 miles to the westward of the Macquarie, running to the +southward and westward. + +By His Excellency's Command, + ALEXANDER M'LEAY. + + +* * * * * + + +MOUNT HARRIS, 4TH MARCH, 1829. + +SIR,--I do myself the honor to acquaint you, for the information of His +Excellency the Governor, that I returned to this eminence on Monday, +the 23rd ult. having been driven from the interior, in consequence of +the extreme drought which prevails there. + +I am to state, in reference to my former communication, that agreeably +to what I then reported, I moved, on the 26th December last, lower down +the plains of the Macquarie, but encountered a barrier of reeds, formed +by the marshes of that river, through which we in vain endeavoured to +force our way. I was in consequence obliged to make the nearest part of +the river to my left, and to take such measures as the nature of my +situation required. Here, for the first time, I set the boat afloat, +deeming it essential to trace the river, as I could not move upon its +banks, and wishing also to ascertain where it again issued from the +marshes, I requested Mr. Hume to proceed northerly, with a view to +skirt them, and to descend westerly, wherever he saw an open space. He +was fortunate enough to strike upon the channel about twelve miles +north of our position, but was obstructed in his further progress by +another marsh, in consequence of which he returned to the camp the next +day; in the mean time, I had taken the boat, and proceeded down the +Macquarie, my way being at first considerably obstructed by fallen +timber: clearing this obstacle, however, I got into a deeper channel, +with fine broad reaches, and a depth of from twelve to fifteen feet +water. I had a short time previously cleared all woods and trees, and +was now in the midst of reeds of great height. After proceeding onwards +for about eight miles from the place whence I started, my course was +suddenly and unexpectedly checked; I saw reeds before me, and expected +I was about to turn an angle of the river, but I found that I had got +to the end of the channel, and that the river itself had ceased to +exist. Confounded at such a termination to a stream, whose appearance +justified the expectation that it would have led me through the heart +of the marsh to join Mr. Hume, I commenced a most minute examination of +the place, and discovered two creeks, if they deserve the name, +branching, the one to the north-west, and the other to the north-east; +after tracing the former a short distance, I reached its termination, +and in order to assure myself that such was the case, I walked round +the head of it by pushing through the reeds; it being then too dark to +continue where I was, I returned to a place on the river, at which I +had rested during a shower, and slept there. In the morning I again +went to the spot to examine the north-eastern branch, when I was +equally disappointed. I then examined the space between the two creeks, +opposite to the main channel of the river, and where the bank receives +the force of the current. Here I saw water in the reeds, but it was +scarcely ankle deep, and was running off to the north-west quicker than +the waters of the river, which had almost an imperceptible motion, I +was therefore at once convinced that it was not permanent, but had +lodged there in the night, during which much rain had fallen. I next +pushed my way through the reeds into the marsh, and at length clearly +perceived that the waters which were perfectly sweet, after running +several courses, flowed off to the north, towards which point there was +an apparent declination or dip. Finding it impossible to proceed +further, I regained the boat, and thence returned to the camp, under a +conviction that I had reached the very spot, at which Mr. Oxley lost +the channel of the river in 1818. + +The next day I moved to the place where Mr. Hume had struck upon the +channel of the river, but was again doubtful in what direction to +proceed. + +The marsh, at the commencement of which we now found ourselves, being +the third from Mount Foster, but the second great one, seemed to extend +beyond us to the north for many miles, but varying in breadth. In the +evening I went in the boat up the channel, and found it at first, deep +and sullen, as that of the river above. It soon however, narrowed, and +the weeds formed over its surface, so that I abandoned the boat and +walked along a path up it. I had not gone far when the channel divided; +two smaller channels came, the one from the southern, and the other +from the western parts of the marsh into it. There was an evident +declination where they were, and it was at their junction the river +again rallied and formed. On my return to the camp, Mr. Hume and I went +down the river, but found that about a mile it lost itself, and spread +its waters ever the extensive marsh before it. + +In this extremity, I knew not what movement to make, as Mr. Hume had +been checked in his progress north. I therefore determined to ascertain +the nature of the country to the eastward and to the westward, that I +might move accordingly; I proposed to Mr. Hume, to take a week's +provisions, with two attendants, and go to the north-east, in order +again to turn the marsh, but with the expectation that the angle formed +by the junction of the Castlereagh with the Macquarie would arrest its +progress, as the last was fast approaching the former. + +I myself determined to cross the river, and to skirt the marshes on the +left, and in case they turned off to the north east, as they appeared +to do, it was my intention to pursue a N.W. course into the interior, +to learn the nature of it. With these views I left the camp on the 31st +of December, and did not return until the 5th of January. Having found +early in my journey, from the change of soil and of timber, that I was +leaving the neighbourhood of the Macquarie, I followed a N.W. course, +from a more northerly one, and struck at once across the country, under +an impression that Mr. Hume would have made the river again long before +my return. I found, after travelling between twenty and thirty miles, +the country began to rise; and at the end of my journey, I made a hill +of considerable elevation, from the summit of which I had a view of +other high lands; one to the S.W. being a very fine mountain. As I had +not found any water excepting in two creeks, which I had left far +behind me, and as I had got on a soil which appeared incapable of +holding it, I made this the termination of my journey, having exceeded +100 miles in distance from the camp, on my return to which I found Mr. +Hume still absent. When he joined, he stated to me, that not making the +Castlereagh as soon as he expected, he had bent down westerly for the +Macquarie, and that he ended his journey at some gentle hills he had +made; so that it appeared we must either have crossed each other's line +of route, or that they were very near, and that want of length must +alone have prevented them from crossing; but as such all assumption led +to the conclusion that the Macquarie no longer existed, I determined to +pursue a middle course round the swamps, to ascertain the point; as in +case the river had ended, a westerly course was the one which my +instructions directed me to pursue. + +In the immediate neighbourhood of the marshes we were obliged to sink +wells for water, and it was thus early that we began to feel the want +of a regular supply. + +Having made a creek about four miles from our position by cutting +through the reeds where there was a narrow space, we pursued a westerly +course over a plain, having every appearance of frequent inundation, +and for four or five days held nearly the same direction; in the course +of which we crossed both our tracks on the excursions we had made, +which had intersected each other in a dense oak brush; thus renewing +the few doubts, or rather the doubt we had as to the fate of the +Macquarie, whose course we had been sent to trace. Indeed, had I not +felt convinced that that river had ceased, I should not have moved +westward without further examination, but we had passed through a very +narrow part of the marshes, and round the greater part of them, and had +not seen any hollow that could by any possible exaggeration be +construed into or mistaken for the channel of a river. + +It appears, then, that the Macquarie, flowing as it does for so many +miles, through a bed, and not a declining country, and having little +water in it, except in times of flood, loses its impetus long ere it +reaches the formidable barrier that opposes its progress northwards; +the soil in which the reeds grow being a stiff clay. Its waters +consequently spread, until a slight declivity giving them fresh +impulse, they form a channel again, but soon gaining a level, they lose +their force and their motion together, and spread not only over the +second great marsh, but over a vast extent of the surrounding country, +the breadth of ground thus subject to inundation being more than twenty +miles, and its length considerably greater; around this space there is +a gentle rise which confines the waters, while small hollows in various +directions lead them out of the marshes over the adjacent plains, on +which they eventually subside. On my return from the interior, I +examined those parts round which I had not been, with particular +attention, partly in company with Mr. Hume, and this statement was +confirmed by what we saw. Thus, at a distance of about twenty-five +miles from Mount Foster to the N.N.W. the river Macquarie ceases to +exist, in any shape as a river, and at a distance of between fifty and +sixty, the marshes terminate, though the country subject to inundation +from the river is of a very considerable extent, as shown by the +withered bulrushes, wet reeds, and shells, that are scattered over its +surface. + +Having executed the first part of the instructions with which I had +been honoured, I determined on pursuing a west, or north-west course +into the interior, to ascertain the nature of it, in fulfilment of the +second, but in doing this I was obliged to follow creeks, and even on +their banks had to carry a supply of water, so uncertain was it that we +should meet with any at the termination of our day's journey, and that +what we did find would be fit to drink. Our course led us over plains +immediately bordering the lower lands of the Macquarie, alternating +with swamp oak, acacia pendula, pine, box, eucalyptus, and many other +trees of minor growth, the soil being inclined to a red loam, while the +plains were generally covered with a black scrub, though in some places +they had good grass upon them. We crossed two creeks before we made the +hills Mr. Hume had ascended, and which he called New Year's Range. +Around these hills the country appeared better--they are gentle, +picturesque elevations, and are for the most part, covered with +verdure, and have, I fancy, a whinstone base, the rock of which they +are composed being of various substances. I place New Year's Range in +lat. 30 degrees 21 minutes, long. 146 degrees 3 minutes 30 seconds. Our +course next lying north-west along a creek, led us to within twenty +miles of the hill that had terminated my excursion, and as I hoped that +a more leisurely survey of the country from its summit would open +something favourable to our view, I struck over for it, though +eventually obliged to return. From it Mr. Hume and I rode to the S.W. +mountain, a distance of about forty miles, without crossing a brook or +a creek, our way leading through dense acacia brushes, and for the most +part over a desert. We saw high lands from this mountain, which exceeds +1,300 feet in elevation, and is of sandstone formation, and thickly +covered with stunted pine, in eight different points--the bearings of +which are as follows:-- + + Oxley's Table Land, N. 40 E., distant 40 miles. + Kengall Hill, due E. very distant. + Conical Hill, S. 60 E. + Highland, S.E. distance 30 miles. + Highland, S. 30 E. distance 25 miles. + Long Range, S. 16 E. distance 60 miles. + Long Range, S. 72 W. distance 60 miles. + Distant Range, S. 25 W. supposed. + +It was in vain, however, that we looked for water. The country to the +north-west, was low and unbroken, and alternated with wood and plain. + +The country from New Year's Range to the hill I had made, and which I +called Oxley's Table Land, had been very fair, with good soil in many +places, but with a total want of water, except in the creeks, wherein +the supply was both bad and uncertain; on our second day's journey from +the former, we came to the creek on which we were moving, where it had +a coarse granite bottom. The country around it improved very much in +appearance, and there was abundance of good grass on the surface of it, +in spite of the drought. On the right of this creek, a large plain +stretches parallel to it for many miles, varying in quality of soil. +Near Oxley's Table Land, we passed over open forest, the prevailing +timber of which was box. I have placed Oxley's Table Land in latitude +29 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 43 minutes 30 +seconds. + +Finding it impracticable to move westward from the hill I again +descended on the creek, whose general course was to the north-west, in +which direction we at length struck upon a river whose appearance +raised our most sanguine expectations. It flowed round an angle from +the north-east to the north-west, and extended in longitude five +reaches as far as we could see. At that place it was about sixty yards +broad, with banks of from thirty to forty feet high, and it had +numerous wild fowl and many pelicans on its bosom, and seemed to be +full of fish, while the paths of the natives on both sides, like +well-trodden roads, showed how numerous they were about it. On tasting +its waters, however, we found them perfectly salt, and useless to us, +and as our animals had been without water the night before, this +circumstance distressed us much; our first day's journey led us past +between sixty and seventy huts in one place, and on our second we fell +in with a numerous tribe of natives, having previously seen some +between two creeks before we made New-Year's Range. At some places the +water proved less salt than at others; our animals drank of it +sparingly: we found two small fresh-water holes, which served us as we +passed. After tracing the river for a considerable distance, we came on +brine springs in the bed of it, the banks having been encrusted with +salt from the first; and as the difficulty of getting fresh water was +so great, I here foresaw an end to our wanderings. And as I was +resolved not to involve my party in greater distress, I halted it, on +overtaking the animals, and the next morning turned back to the nearest +fresh-water, at a distance of eighteen miles from us. Unwilling, +however, to give up our pursuit, Mr. Hume and I started with two men on +horseback, to trace the river as far as we could, and to ascertain what +course it took; in the hopes also that we should fall on some creek, or +get a more certain supply of drinkable water. We went a distance to +which the bullocks could not have been brought, and then got on a red +sandy soil, which at once destroyed our hopes; and on tasting the river +water we found it salter than ever, our supply being diminished to two +pints. Our animals being weak and purged, and having proceeded at least +forty miles from the camp, I thought it best to yield to circumstances, +and to return, though I trust I shall be believed when I add, it was +with extreme reluctance I did so; and had I followed the wishes of my +party, should still have continued onwards. Making a part of the river +where we had slept, we stayed to refresh, and in consequence of the +heat of the weather were obliged to drink the water in it, which made +us sick. While here, a tribe of blacks came to us and behaved +remarkably well. At night we slept on a plain without water, and the +next day we regained the camp, which had been visited by the natives +during our absence. + +We found the river held a south-west course, and appeared to be making +for the central space between a high land, which I called Dunlop's +Range, at Mr. Hume's request, and a lofty range to the westward. It +still continued its important appearance, having gained in breadth and +in the height of its banks, while there were hundreds of pelicans and +wild-fowl on it. Flowing through a level country with such a channel, +it may be presumed that this river ultimately assumes either a greater +character, or that it adds considerably to the importance of some other +stream. It had a clay bottom, generally speaking, in many places +semi-indurated and fast forming into sandstone, while there was +crystallized sulphate of lime running in veins through the soil which +composed the bank. + +This river differs from most in the colony, in having a belt of barren +land of from a quarter of a mile to two miles in breadth in its +immediate neighbourhood, and which is subject to overflow. This belt +runs to the inland plains, where a small elevation checks the further +progress of the flood. There is magnificent blue gum on both sides the +river, but the right bank is evidently the most fertile, and I am +mistaken greatly if there is not a beautiful country north of it. + +Of the country over which we have passed, it is impossible for me to +have formed a correct opinion under its present melancholy +circumstances. It has borne the appearance of barrenness, where in even +moderate rain, it might have shown very differently, though no doubt we +passed over much of both good and bad land; our animals on the whole, +have thrived on the food they have had, which would argue favourably +for the herbage. Generally speaking, I fear the timber is bad--the +rough-gum may be used for knees, and such purposes, and we may have +seen wood for the wheelwright and cabinet-maker, specimens of which I +have procured, but none for general or household purposes. + +The creeks we have traced are different in character from those in the +settled districts, inasmuch as that, like the river, they have a belt +of barren land near then and but little grass--they have all of them +been numerously frequented by the natives, as appeared from the number +of muscle-shells on their banks, but now having scarcely any water in +them, the fish having either been taken, or are dead, and the tribes +gone elsewhere for food, while the badness of the river water has +introduced a cutaneous disease among the natives of that district, +which is fast carrying them off. Our intercourse with these people was +incessant from the time we first met them, and on all occasions they +behaved remarkably well, nor could we have seen less than than two +hundred and fifty of them. + +Our return is to be attributable to the want of water alone, and it is +impossible for me to describe the effects of the drought on animal as +well as vegetable nature. The natives are wandering in the desert, and +it is melancholy to reflect on the necessity which obliges them to +drink the stinking and loathsome water they do--birds sit gasping in +the trees and are quite thin--the wild dog prowls about in the day-time +unable to avoid us, and is as lean as he can be in a living state, +while minor vegetation is dead, and the very trees are drooping. I have +noticed all these things in my Journal I shall have the honour of +submitting through you, for the Governor's perusal and information, on +my return. Finally, I fear our expedition will not pave the way to any +ultimate benefit; although it has been the means by which two very +doubtful questions,--the course of the Macquarie, and the nature of the +interior, have been solved; for it is beyond doubt, that the interior +for 250 miles beyond its former known limits to the W.N.W., so far from +being a shoal sea, has been ascertained not only to have considerable +elevations upon it, but is in itself a table land to all intents and +purposes, and has scarcely water on its surface to support its +inhabitants. + +I beg you will inform His Excellency the Governor, that I have on all +occasions received the most ready and valuable assistance from Mr. +Hume. His intimate acquaintance with the manners and customs of the +natives, enabled him to enter into intercourse with them, and chiefly +contributed to the peaceable manner in which we have journeyed, while +his previous experience put it in his power to be of real use to me. I +cannot but say he has done an essential service to future travellers, +and to the colony at large, by his conduct on all occasions since he +has been with me; nor should I be doing him justice, if I did not avail +myself of the first opportunity of laying my sentiments before the +Governor, through you. I am happy to add that every individual of the +party deserves my warmest approbation, and that they have, one and all, +borne their distresses, trifling certainly, but still unusual, with +cheerfulness, and that they have at all times been attentive to their +duty, and obedient to their orders. The whole are in good health, and +are eager again to start. + +I have the honor to be, + Sir + Your most obedient and most humble servant, + CHARLES STURT, + Capt. 39th Regt. + +THE HONORABLE THE COLONIAL SECRETARY. + + +* * * * * + + +MOUNT HARRIS, 5TH MARCH, 1829. + +SIR,--It having appeared to me, that after discovering such a river as +the one I have described in my letter of yesterday, His Excellency the +Governor would approve of my endeavouring to regain it. There being a +probability that it ultimately joins the Southern Waters, I thought of +turning my steps to the southward and westward; and with a view to +learn the nature of the country, I despatched Mr. Hume in that +direction on Saturday last. He returned in three days, after having +gone above forty miles from the river, and states, that he crossed two +creeks, the one about twenty-five miles, the other about thirty-two +distance, evidently the heads of the creeks we passed westward of the +marshes of the Macquarie. He adds, that, to the second creek the land +was excellent, but that on crossing it, he got onto red soil, on which +he travelled some miles further, until he saw a range of high land, +bearing from him S.W.. by W., when, knowing from the nature of the +country around him, and from the experience of our late journey, that +he could not hope to find a regular supply of water in advance, and +that in the present dry state of the low lands, a movement such as I +had contemplated would be impracticable, he returned home. I do myself +the honour, therefore, to report to you, for His Excellency's +information, that I shall proceed on Saturday next in a N.E. direction +towards the Castlereagh, intending to trace that river down, and +afterwards to penetrate as far to the northward and westward as +possible; it being my wish to get into the country north of the more +distant river, where I have expectations that there is an extensive and +valuable track of country, but that in failure of the above, I shall +examine the low country behind our N.W. boundaries, if I can find a +sufficiency of water to enable me to do so. + +I am to inform you that in this neighbourhood the Macquarie has ceased +to flow, and that it is now a chain of shallow ponds. The water is fast +diminishing in it, and unless rain descends in a few weeks it will be +perfectly dry. + +I am also to report, that the natives attempted the camp with the +supplies before my arrival at Mount Harris, but that on the soldier +with the party firing a shot, after they had thrown a stone and other +of the weapons, they fled. It was in consequence of their fires, which +I saw at a distance of forty miles, and which they never make on so +extensive a scale, except as signals when they want to collect, and are +inclined to be mischievous, that I made forced marches up, and I am led +to believe my arrival was very opportune. The natives have visited us +since, and I do not think they will now attempt to molest either party +when we separate. + +I have the honour to be, + Sir, + Your most obedient and most humble servant, + CHARLES STURT, + Capt. 39th Regt. + +THE HON. THE COLONIAL SECRETARY. + + + +END OF VOLUME I + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Two Expeditions into the Interior of +Southern Australia, Volume I, by Charles Sturt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO EXPEDITIONS--SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA *** + +***** This file should be named 4328.txt or 4328.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/2/4328/ + +Produced by Col Choat. HTML version by Al Haines. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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