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diff --git a/43246.txt b/43246.txt deleted file mode 100644 index fe51b8c..0000000 --- a/43246.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10318 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Motor Routes of England, by Gordon Home - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Motor Routes of England - Western Section - -Author: Gordon Home - -Release Date: July 18, 2013 [EBook #43246] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_, bold text by =equal - signs=, and spaced text by ~tildes~. - - Four advertisements originally at the front of this book were moved to - join the rest of the advertisements at the back. - - - - - THE MOTOR ROUTES - OF ENGLAND - - WESTERN SECTION - - - - - ALREADY PUBLISHED - IN THE SAME SERIES - - MOTOR ROUTES - OF ENGLAND - - _SOUTHERN SECTION_ - (South of the Thames) - - With 24 Illustrations in Colour - - 'The touring motorist ... will find Mr. Home exactly the - sort of companion who will add sensibly to the pleasures of - the day's run. All along the main roads he gossips brightly - of history, architecture, and archaeology, and manages to - convey a large amount of information without being - unpleasantly didactic.' - - _Pall Mall Gazette._ - - - THE MOTOR ROUTES - OF FRANCE - - _TO THE CHATEAUX COUNTRY, - BIARRITZ, THE PYRENEES, - THE RIVIERA, AND THE - RHONE VALLEY_ - - Containing 16 full-page Illustrations in Colour, 16 in Black - and White, and 63 Maps and Plans - - 'A guide-book of a modern and very superior kind; eminently - practical, admirably concise, sufficiently detailed and - comprehensive, and, in addition, beautifully illustrated - and bound.'--_Standard._ - - 'The traveller who has this work for a companion may feel - assured that he will miss little of interest or importance - along the way.'--_Westminster Gazette._ - - A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON - - - AGENTS - - AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK - - AUSTRALASIA OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS - 205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE - - CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. - ST. MARTIN'S HOUSE, 70 BOND STREET, TORONTO - - INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. - MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY - 309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA - - GERMANY, AUSTRIA-HUNGARY, } - RUSSIA, SCANDINAVIA, AND } BROCKHAUS AND PEHRSSON - GERMAN SWITZERLAND } 16 QUERSTRASSE, LEIPZIG - - - - - [Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF BETTWS-Y-COED.] - - - - - THE - MOTOR ROUTES - OF ENGLAND - - BY - GORDON HOME - - (_ASSISTED BY CHARLES H. ASHDOWN_) - - WESTERN SECTION - WITH - 16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR, AND - 16 TOWN PLANS AND 26 ROUTE MAPS - - ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - SOHO SQUARE, LONDON . MCMXI - - - - -PREFACE - - -There have been many inquiries for this new volume of the 'Motor -Routes of England,' which I should have been glad to publish a year -ago had the necessary time been at my disposal. Finding that there was -little chance of getting the book out even this year, I obtained the -help of Mr. Charles H. Ashdown, who has written a considerable portion -of the letterpress under my supervision. We motored over a great part -of the routes together last year, and part of North Wales, which I had -no time to visit, Mr. Ashdown motored through in my car without me. -Although he knew the country intimately, I thought it better, from the -motorist's point of view, that he should go through the district -afresh. I hope, therefore, that, having taken great pains to give the -latest available information, this book will prove of use to all who -take their cars into Wales and those parts of England which are -included. - -As in the previous volumes of this series, I am greatly indebted to -the Secretary of the Touring Department of the Royal Automobile Club -for his exceedingly kind assistance in working out the routes. They -are planned on the accumulated experience of a great many members of -the club, who have placed their knowledge at the disposal of their -fellow-members. - -My experience of the Daimler 38 h.-p. car in which we toured through -the greater part of Wales and the adjoining English counties was, as -before, entirely satisfactory. We never had to give a thought to the -running of the car in the hundreds of miles of mountainous roads we -traversed. - -Although the route maps accompanying the text are generally sufficient -for all the ordinary needs of the touring motorist, I do not think it -desirable to travel without the sheets of Bartholomew's -half-an-inch-to-the-mile reduced survey maps. The coloured contours -are of such service in showing the chief features of the surrounding -country that I always feel happier with them. The sheets required for -this book are numbered 8, 11, 12, 16, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 28, -29, 30. - -I have been asked by those who have used the previous volumes of this -series to give a list of hotels, and in that printed at the end of -this book I give the names of those hotels I can recommend. I shall be -exceedingly grateful to any reader who discovers any inaccuracies in -this book if he will be kind enough to let me hear of them. - - GORDON HOME. - - 43, GLOUCESTER STREET, - WARWICK SQUARE, - LONDON, S.W. - _May 1, 1911._ - - - - -CONTENTS - - - TRUNK ROUTE - - SECTION PAGE - - I. LONDON TO DUNSTABLE, 32 MILES 1 - II. DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE, 721/2 MILES 18 - III. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY, 59 MILES 29 - - - LOOP No. 1 - - (a) SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 391/2 MILES 38 - (b) CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 351/2 MILES 52 - (c) RHYL TO SHREWSBURY, 861/2 MILES 61 - - - TRUNK ROUTE - - IV. SHREWSBURY TO LLANDUDNO, 811/2 MILES 75 - V. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 183/4 MILES 89 - - - LOOP No. 2 - - BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 201/4 MILES 98 - - - TRUNK ROUTE - - VI. Bangor to Dolgelley, 653/4 Miles 103 - - - LOOP No. 3 - - DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES 119 - - - LOOP No. 4 - - CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 493/4 MILES 127 - - - TRUNK ROUTE - - VII. DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG, 481/4 MILES 134 - - - LOOP No. 5 - - (a) TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S, 1171/4 MILES 142 - (b) ST. DAVID'S TO HEREFORD, 1321/4 MILES 162 - - - TRUNK ROUTE - - VIII. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY, 68 MILES 180 - IX. ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER, 841/4 MILES 189 - - - LOOP No. 6 - - (a) HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 543/4 MILES 219 - (b) SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 811/4 MILES 232 - - - LOOP No. 7 - - GLOUCESTER TO BATH, MALMESBURY, EVESHAM, - TEWKESBURY, AND GLOUCESTER, 153 MILES 243 - - - TRUNK ROUTE - - X. GLOUCESTER TO OXFORD, 50 MILES 269 - - - LOOP No. 8 - - OXFORD TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON, COVENTRY, BANBURY, - AND OXFORD, 110 MILES 280 - - - TRUNK ROUTE - - XI. OXFORD TO LONDON, 671/2 MILES 305 - - - TABLE OF THE SOVEREIGNS OF ENGLAND, THE CHIEF - EVENTS OF THEIR REIGNS, AND THE ARCHITECTURAL - PERIODS 320 - - A LIST OF MOTOR-CAR SIGNS 323 - - A LIST OF HOTELS 326 - - INDEX 327 - - -NOTE.--Anyone wishing to plan a tour including the West of England and -Wales will find that this book joins with the Southern Section volume -at Bath and Windsor, and the large maps at the end of the books will -show other points between those places where the motorist can run from -one book into the other with only the slightest gap. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - 1. Distant View of Bettws-y-Coed. _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - 2. Lichfield Cathedral 32 - - 3. Shrewsbury House, Chester 65 - - 4. Swallow Falls, near Bettws-y-Coed 72 - - 5. Conway from Benarth 89 - - 6. Conway Valley 96 - - 7. Distant View of Penmaenmawr 113 - - 8. Snowdon from Traeth Mawr 120 - - 9. Hereford Cathedral from the Banks of the Wye 176 - - 10. The Wye, Symond's Yat, near Monmouth, Herefordshire 185 - - 11. Coming Night, near Beddgelert 201 - - 12. Tintern Abbey 208 - - 13. Church Porch at Northleach 281 - - 14. Stratford-on-Avon 288 - - 15. Ford's Hospital, Coventry 297 - - 16. Magdalen Tower and Bridge, Oxford 304 - - _Map showing the whole of the routes at the end of volume._ - - - - -LIST OF PLANS - - - PAGE - - 1. St. Albans 7 - - 2. Dunstable 16 - - 3. Shrewsbury 77 - - 4. Chester 44 - - 5. Conway 91 - - 6. Carnarvon 106 - - 7. Hereford 177 - - 8. Worcester 237 - - 9. Gloucester 212 - - 10. Tewkesbury 265 - - 11. Cheltenham 271 - - 12. Oxford 307 - - 13. Warwick 291 - - 14. Leamington 294 - - 15. Coventry 299 - - 16. Bath 251 - - - Chester Cathedral 46 - - Valle Crucis Abbey 72 - - Carnarvon Castle 107 - - St. David's Cathedral 159 - - Gloucester Cathedral 215 - - - - -THE - -MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND - -WESTERN SECTION - -SECTION I - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -THE HOLYHEAD ROAD - -LONDON TO DUNSTABLE, 32 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - - =London-Marble Arch= to Elstree 111/2 - =Elstree= to St. Albans 8 - =St. Albans= to Dunstable 121/2 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -From the =Marble Arch= to =Elstree= the surface is very good, in spite -of trams for part of the way. - -=Elstree= to =St. Albans=.--A hilly but good road. - -=St. Albans.=--Speed limit, 10 miles per hour; dangerous cross-roads -in centre of town. - -=St. Albans= to =Dunstable=.--Excellent surface, almost level. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Edgware.=--An old-fashioned village. - -=Elstree.=--A charmingly situated village, overlooking Aldenham Park. - -The road through Highgate, Finchley, and Barnet passes the following -places on the way to St. Albans: - - =Chipping Barnet.=--A growing town, much modernized; church, - Perpendicular style, but recently almost entirely rebuilt. - - =Monken Hadley.=--A pretty village; interesting church with cradle - beacon affixed to tower; obelisk of Battle of Barnet. - - =South Mimms.=--Small village; Perpendicular church, with traces of - Early English; the Frowyke Chapel, with effigy. - - =Salisbury Hall.=--A sixteenth-century moated grange. - -=St. Albans.=--Cathedral, Early Norman (1077) to Decorated, of -exceptional interest; great gateway of the monastery; Roman walls of -_Verulamium_ and British causeway; medieval clock-tower; sites of the -two battles; St. Michael's Church, Saxon, with monument of Bacon; old -timbered houses. - -=Redbourne.=--Small village; church, Norman and Early English; fine -chancel screen. - -=Dunstable.=--Ancient town, with earthworks; Priory Church, Transition -Norman, impressive west front. - - -THE STARTING-POINT - -The best and most direct route from London to the finest scenery in -Wales, as well as to many of the most picturesque towns and districts -in the western half of the central or midland portion of England, is -the Holyhead Road. The older route books invariably give the General -Post Office as the best starting-point, and this has been indicated -on the route map on this page, and that road beyond Barnet is -described, but as the Edgware Road is so much preferable in many ways, -the distances by that way are given at the head of this section. From -the Marble Arch the road goes as straight as an arrow, passing through -Maida Vale, Brondesbury, and Cricklewood. The Welsh Harp Reservoir is -crossed, and the villages of Edgware and Elstree passed through, and -the road from Barnet is joined at St. Albans. - -[Map: (TRUNK) No. 1. LONDON TO DUNSTABLE.] - -By the older route shown in the map the first open country is not -reached until Barnet is passed. Barnet itself is now a suburban town -without any interest. - - -MONKEN HADLEY - -Upon leaving Barnet, a slight detour to the right, occupying a few -minutes, leads to Monken Hadley Church, of varied styles of -architecture. It stands upon high ground near the road, and is -picturesquely surrounded by trees and pleasantly situated old houses -on a village green. The iron cradle beacon affixed to the tower is an -object of great rarity. It was used in past times to signal the -approach of disturbers of the peace. A tall obelisk near the church -was erected early in the eighteenth century to mark the site of the -battlefield of Barnet, 1471, immortalized in Bulwer Lytton's 'Last of -the Barons,' and memorable for the death of the great King-maker. A -road with a few easy turns in it leads back to the main route. It -passes ~Wrotham Park~, the seat of the Rev. the Earl of Strafford, whose -family name is Byng. Within one of the rooms the oak cabin of the -flag-ship once occupied by Admiral Byng has been erected, conveyed -thither when the vessel was broken up. Since 1757, when the Admiral -was shot upon his own quarter-deck, _pour encourager les autres_, no -Byng has entered the navy, the family having transferred its -allegiance to the army as a mild protest. - - -SOUTH MIMMS - -The church contains traces of Early English architecture, but the main -features are Perpendicular. In the Frowyke Chapel, separated from the -church by a Perpendicular parclose screen, is a well-preserved effigy -of the Transition period and an interesting brass let in the floor. -The door to the vanished rood-loft is in good condition, and a -low-side window may be found in the chancel. Thomas de Frowyke, died -1448, is buried under the tower; the inscription states that six sons -and twelve daughters furnished the matrimonial quiver. The -ecclesiologist with time upon his hands will find an interesting -church at North Mimms, about two miles across country (see map), -standing in the grounds of an Elizabethan mansion. From South Mimms a -long and easy ascent leads to the summit of Ridge Hill, where the -massive tower of St. Alban's fane comes into view in the midst of a -beautiful landscape. An equally long and easy descent leads to a turn, -where a cottage stands upon the left, at some white gates. This is the -entrance to ~Salisbury Hall~, a picturesque moated grange of exceptional -interest, with quaint gables, twisted chimneys, and beautiful -surroundings. Originally built in the time of Henry VIII. by Sir John -Cutts, Treasurer of England, it subsequently was occupied by the -well-known Sir Jeremy Snow. Nell Gwynn was often here, recouping from -Court revels, and tradition asserts that Prince Charles sought refuge -within its walls after the Battle of Worcester. Visitors are generally -permitted to walk up to the farmyard to see the front of the house. At -~London Colney~ a piece of water is crossed. ~Tyttenhanger~ lies to the -right, at a distance of about two miles; it was the country house of -the Abbots of St. Albans, and has been adapted to modern requirements. -The road from here to St. Albans is easy, but care should be exercised -at the cross-roads in the centre of the town, where a policeman -generally regulates traffic. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 1--ST. ALBANS.] - -ST. ALBANS - -A walk through the cloisters opposite the Great Red Lion Hotel affords -a striking view of a considerable part of the vast Abbey Church, the -most ancient of the great churches in England. It stands upon higher -ground than any other cathedral in the British Isles, and is the -longest next to Winchester. It possesses, moreover, the longest Gothic -nave in the world. The Norman tower, dating from 1077, is composed of -Roman bricks from the neighbouring _Verulamium_, and flints, bricks, -and stone from the same site may be detected in the walls. The walk -leads round to the southern part of the church, through the ancient -sumpter-yard, with its fine old cedar, and thence to the west front, -the site of the demolished monastery showing in irregular heaps upon -the left. - -_The nave is open to the public free of charge. Sixpence is charged -for entrance to the eastern portions (threepence each for a party of -ten). Open from_-- - - _November 1 to February 28_ _10 a.m. to 4 p.m._ - _March 1 to April 30_ } _10 a.m. to 5 p.m._ - _September 16 to October 31_ } - _May 1 to September 15_ _10 a.m. to 6 p.m._ - - -_Building Dates._ - -_Roman Period._--St. Alban was executed upon this spot, presumably in -the amphitheatre, in 303, and a church was erected to his memory by -the Christians of Verulam in 313, which was still standing in Bede's -time. - -793. Offa the Great, King of Mercia, founded the monastery, and either -repaired and enlarged the Romano-British church or built a new one. - -1077. Shortly after the Conquest, Paul de Caen, a relative of -Lanfranc, was appointed the first Norman abbot, and proceeded to -demolish the church, subsequently erecting a great Norman building in -its place, the remains of which--viz., the tower, transepts, parts of -the nave and the presbytery--still remain. - -On entering by the west front, which has been rebuilt by Lord -Grimthorpe, the first part of the nave is Early English, dating from -_c._ 1214, and one of the best examples in England. Farther on Norman -bays, dating from 1077, are upon the north, while opposite them are -Decorated Gothic bays, built _c._ 1323 to replace the Norman work -which had fallen. The screen has been despoiled; it was erected in -1350. Passing through the door, the abbot's entrance from the -cloisters is seen upon the right, and the south transept is reached, -having a curious feature, the slype of Transition Norman work at the -south end. The tower dates from 1077, and is the largest and heaviest -of the Norman towers now remaining in England. Eight of the baluster -columns round the triforia are from the former Saxon church, and date -from 793. The choir-stalls are new, and above them is a remarkable -ceiling, the panels dating from 1368 to 1450. The north transept is -the reputed site of St. Alban's martyrdom. In the presbytery is the -high-altar screen, only rivalled by that at Winchester, and dating -from 1484. It is the work of Abbot Wallingford, was despoiled at the -Reformation, and recently restored by the late Lord Aldenham. South of -it lies the chantry tomb of Abbot Wheathampstead, and north that of -Abbot Ramryge. Leaving by the north door, the presbytery aisle is -reached, partly Norman and partly Early English. The old doors from -the west front preserved here date from the time of Henry VI. -Proceeding eastwards, the entrance to the Saint's Chapel is on the -right. Here is the far-famed shrine of St. Alban, or rather the -pedestal of the shrine, since the shrine itself was portable, and -rested upon the top of the structure. It dates from 1306, was -demolished in 1539, and built up in the three lancets at the east end -of the chapel. When the arches were opened some time since, the -fragments were recovered and put together. The tomb of Humphrey, Duke -of Gloucester (died, or murdered, 1447; see Shakespeare, _Henry VI._, -Part II.), stands on the south of the chapel; the coffin may be seen -by raising the trap-door. On the north side is the Watching Gallery, -where a monk sat to guard the shrine and its treasures. It dates from -_c._ 1400. There is only one other in England. - -Leaving by the north door again, the shrine of St. Amphibalus, dating -from 1350, is seen. It was likewise demolished at the Reformation. The -Lady Chapel and its ante-chapel were erected between 1260 and 1320, -and exhibit Early English and Decorated architecture. They have been -restored under Lord Grimthorpe. Forty nobles who fell in the first -Battle of St. Albans are interred here. At the Reformation the chapels -were converted into school premises for St. Albans Grammar School, and -used as such for 300 years. The stone carving is particularly -beautiful. Passing out by the south door, an altar slab is seen, with -its five crosses; a grille, dating from _c._ 1270, which is the only -trellis screen in England; and upon the south the openings to former -external chapels. In the Wheathampstead Chapel may be seen the brass -of Abbot de la Mare (1349 to 1396), reputed to be the finest -ecclesiastical brass in existence. - -The ~Great Gateway of the Monastery~, opposite to the west front of the -Abbey Church, dates from 1361, and now forms part of St. Albans -Grammar School, one of the oldest, if not _the_ oldest, scholastic -foundations in the kingdom. It was probably founded in the reign of -King Edred, about 948, and among the eminent personages attending it -have been Alexander Nequam, foster-brother of Richard I.; Matthew -Paris, who left the school in 1217 and entered the monastery; Sir John -Mandeville, the famous writer of his supposed travels, who lies buried -in the abbey; and Nicholas Breakspere, born in 1090, who subsequently -became Pope of Rome, the only Englishman who has attained to that -dignity. In 1195 the school was the largest in England. In 1381 the -gates were forced by the rioters in Wat Tyler's rebellion and the -precincts of the monastery invaded; and in 1480 the third -printing-press in England was set up in the building. Among -post-Reformation scholars one of the most distinguished was Francis -Bacon. - -At the bottom of the lane leading from the monastery gateway is the -well-known Fighting Cocks Inn, reputed to be the oldest inhabited -house in Britain, and a few steps from it the River Ver. Crossing the -stream, the British causeway is reached, one of the most ancient -earthworks in Great Britain, and the Roman walls lie just beyond. The -visitor here stands upon soil which recalls memories of the earliest -period in the chronology of English history. - -~Verulamium.~--At the time of Caesar's invasion, 54 B.C., Cassivelaunus -was ruling over a great tract of country, with his capital at -_Verulamium_, the home of a long line of ancestors. The Roman general -captured the city and exacted tribute. In A.D. 42 the town submitted -to the Romans under Aulus Plautius, but was sacked and burnt by -Boadicea and her followers in A.D. 61. Rebuilt and fortified with -walls and towers, it was the first Roman city built in Britain. Its -area is 203 acres. In A.D. 58 Nero made it a _municipium_, or free -city, York being the only other town so honoured. It was essentially a -trading and residential city, and became the capital of Southern -Britain. In 303 St. Alban was led out of the gates and martyred upon -Holmhurst, where the Abbey Church was subsequently erected. By 436 the -Roman occupation had ceased, and swarms of Picts and Scots, Irish -pirates, and Northmen overran the district. Many battles were fought, -and in 516 _Verulamium_ was sacked and burnt. It served as a quarry -for many hundreds of years, yielding building materials for the -monastery and town. The only Roman theatre as yet discovered in -Britain came to light about fifty years since, and the foundations of -the largest building as yet unearthed in our islands were revealed a -few years ago. The thorough excavation of the whole site is being -mooted at the present time. - -~St. Michael's Church~ is of Saxon architecture, dating from 948. It -contains an Elizabethan pulpit with hour-glass stand, and the tomb and -statue of Francis Bacon, Viscount St. Albans. - -The ~Two Battles of St. Albans~ were fought in 1455 and 1461, the first -chiefly in St. Peter's Street and its byways, and the second upon -Bernard's Heath, lying to the north of St. Peter's Church, in whose -churchyard many thousands of the slain were interred. - -The ~Clock Tower~ in the High Street dates from 1410, and contains a -medieval bell of beautiful workmanship, _c._ 1403, the curfew bell. - -Other objects of interest in St. Albans are Sopwell Ruins, St. -Stephen's Church, and Gorhambury, two miles distant, the house of the -Bacons. - - * * * * * - -Shortly after leaving St. Albans by the Redbourn road, the River Ver -is crossed at Bow Bridge, and here the Watling Street from London, -which has passed through the centre of Verulam, joins the road, and -from this point until Chester is reached the way lies almost entirely -upon this great Roman artery. It is intact from London to St. -Stephen's Church, St. Albans, and, with a few gaps, from near Bow -Bridge to Chester. - -At ~Redbourn~ a few quaint old houses still linger in the long, narrow -street. To reach the church, which is Norman and Early English, a turn -to the left is taken at the entrance to the village. It contains a -very fine chancel screen. - -Flamstead lies half a mile off the main road, at the summit of a steep -hill. The church has recently been restored--a restoration in the true -sense of the word. - -A long, steady rise through beautiful country eventually leads to - - -DUNSTABLE - -The modern town is successor to the ancient station of _Durocobrivae_ -and a great Roman market, the _Forum Dianae_. - -[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 2--DUNSTABLE.] - -The district is remarkably rich in British and Roman remains: Maiden -Bower, a circular British earthwork, and Totternhoe, a combined -British and Roman fort, lie at short distances from the town (see -Map). The Watling Street is crossed here in the centre of the town by -the Icknield Way, and a piece of the Roman road was exposed near this -spot, which was 9 inches thick and intensely hard, of cemented flints -and sandstone. - -Turning to the right, along Church Street (part of the Icknield Way), -the priory church, with its beautiful west front, is seen upon the -right. - -~Dunstable Priory Church.~--Founded 1131, the church is but a fragment -of that which formerly stood here. Tower, transepts, chancel, and Lady -Chapel have disappeared, and even the nave, which remains, has been -curtailed. The body of Queen Eleanor rested here in 1290 upon its -progress to London; and in 1533 Archbishop Cranmer held his court in -the church, and formally divorced Queen Catherine of Aragon from the -King. The priory was dissolved in 1534. The greater part of the -building is Transition Norman, the chevron and billet ornamentation -being of excellent workmanship. The north aisle is Perpendicular. In -the chancel are ten balusters of Flemish design and execution. -Undoubtedly the great feature of the building is the exquisite west -front, which, though suffering in parts from recent restoration, still -delights the ecclesiologist. It contains four orders of architecture, -which effectually harmonize with one another. - -Mr. Worthington G. Smith, the eminent local antiquary, has written a -most admirable handbook to the town, which will supplement these brief -particulars. - - - - -SECTION II - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE, 721/2 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Dunstable= to Hockliffe 41/2 - =Hockliffe= to Fenny Stratford 71/4 - =Fenny Stratford= to Stony Stratford 7 - =Stony Stratford= to Towcester 8 - =Towcester= to Daventry 121/4 - =Daventry= to Kilsby 51/2 - =Kilsby= to Lutterworth 93/4 - =Lutterworth= to Cross-in-Hand 21/2 - =Cross-in-Hand= to High Cross 33/4 - =High Cross= to Atherstone 12 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Dunstable to Daventry.=--Undulating in places, but with good surface -to Daventry. - -=Daventry to Lutterworth.=--Poor road to Kilsby; 4 miles from Kilsby -an ascent of 1 in 14, followed by a descent of 1 in 12; then a -gradually improving road to Lutterworth. - -=Kilsby to Atherstone.=--Undulating road, with good surface. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Fenny Stratford.=--A small town with a Georgian church. - -=Stony Stratford.=--A small town with no great interest. - -=Towcester.=--Easton Neston House and Park. - -=Daventry.=--Small town; historic inn. - -=Lutterworth.=--Quiet country town; associations with Wycliffe, -especially in the Perpendicular church, where the great Protestant's -pulpit is still to be seen. - -=Cross-in-Hand.=--Roman centre for roads. - - =Nuneaton.=--Two miles off the main road to the south-west; the - George Eliot country. - - =Hartshill.=--Two miles off route; remains of Norman castle. - -=Mancetter.=--Church, Roman camp, and manor-house. - -=Atherstone.=--A small manufacturing town on the Watling Street, -without any interesting features. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 2. DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE.] - -Shortly after leaving Dunstable a long, easy descent of the northern -slope of the Dunstable Downs occurs, these hills being part of the -Chilterns. A fine view over a large part of Bucks and Beds is seen in -front, and an interesting sweep of the Downs behind. A number of -sleepy little villages occur, each presenting rural features of its -own in harmony with the surroundings. At Hockliffe a side-road leads -to the beautiful Woburn Park and Abbey. At ~Fenny Stratford~, a small -town chiefly consisting of one street, the Roman station of -_Magiovintum_ was situated, and coins and other remains are -frequently found; the only modern association appears to be connected -with Browne Willis, the antiquary, who is buried here. The church is -early Georgian, dating from 1724. Seven miles farther on, ~Stony -Stratford~, a small uninteresting town, is reached, known chiefly in -history through having had an Eleanor Cross, which disappeared in -Puritan days, and also from the capture of Edward V. by his uncle, the -Duke of Gloucester. ~Bradwell Abbey~, founded in 1155, now a farmhouse, -lies about three miles away to the right. - -From Stony Stratford to Towcester the route runs as straight as an -arrow, and one can imagine the metalled track of the road the legions -tramped lying but a few feet beneath the surface. ~Towcester~ is the -ancient _Lactodorum_, and the later Tove Castra, or Camp on the River -Tove, which flows through the town. Few, if any, Roman remains are now -visible, and Easton Neston House with its picturesque park is the only -feature of interest in the neighbourhood. - -The road to Weedon is somewhat undulating, and rises in places to 500 -feet above sea-level, an altitude which has not been reached since -leaving Dunstable. At Weedon it is necessary to make a detour to the -left, as the Watling Street for some considerable distance has been -allowed to fall into disrepair; in fact, it is merely in some cases a -trackway through grassy fields, with farmers' gates across the -vanished road. The restoration of this part of the Roman way has been -proposed at times, but never carried out, the considerable cost and -the paucity of towns and villages probably accounting for it. This gap -in continuity is to be deplored for sentimental reasons, but not for -practical utility, as the track is at times more than undulating. - - -DAVENTRY - -~Daventry~ is a small town possessing but few attractions beyond its -historic hotel, the Wheat Sheaf, built in 1610, and known in the -annals of Warwickshire as the resting-place of Charles I. (after the -taking of Leicester) for six consecutive days in 1645, the Royal -troops, both horse and foot, in considerable numbers occupying the -surrounding fields. The regal bedchamber may be seen and even -occupied, while the courtyard, famous in duelling days, is visible -from its window. In one encounter in 1696 a young ensign, named -Gardner, gasped out his life after a duel to the death with his -lieutenant. Near Daventry lies Althorp Park, the seat of Earl Spencer. -In this medieval house, not greatly altered since, James I. and -William III. were entertained. - -On leaving Daventry the road turns sharply to the right to ~Kilsby~, -with a poor surface most of the way. It passes through a well-wooded -country, and a short distance beyond Kilsby joins the Watling Street -at an acute angle. Upon looking backwards, the line of the ancient -highway may be distinctly traced through the fields. From this point -until Atherstone is reached, a distance of nearly twenty-three miles, -Leicestershire lies upon the right-hand side of the road and -Warwickshire upon the left. - -~Dunsmore Heath~ is then crossed, and shortly afterwards two lines of -railway are passed, the source of the Warwickshire Avon being near the -first at Dove Bridge. At Churchover is the birthplace of Cave, of -_Gentleman's Magazine_ fame. The main road from Rugby to Lutterworth -branches off to the right. Near this point, on the brow of the hill, -just north-west of Cave's Inn and on both sides of the Watling Street, -is the site of the great Roman station _Tripontium_. The remains have -almost disappeared, but pieces of pottery are plentiful, and coins are -now and then unearthed. - - -RUGBY - -lies a few miles to the west of the main route, and is famous for its -great school, founded in 1567, being one of the four great public -schools in England. The buildings are chiefly in the Tudor style, and -date from 1808, with many subsequent additions. Besides the school, -there are practically no objects of interest in the town. The road to -Lutterworth is slightly undulating, with a good surface. - - -LUTTERWORTH - -is a quiet little country town of about 2,000 inhabitants, lying in a -pastoral district fissured occasionally with wooded valleys. It is a -typical foxhunting centre. The main street descends a hill somewhat -abruptly, and crosses a small bridge over the River Swift, from which -point the ashes of Wycliffe were scattered. The church is endeared to -the champions of Protestantism by its associations with Wycliffe, and -by the tangible relics which are preserved in it of his residence here -from 1375 to 1384. The architecture of the church is chiefly of the -fourteenth century. The nave is early Perpendicular, but a Decorated -window occupies the end of the south aisle, where there was formerly a -Lady Chapel. The chancel also is Perpendicular, with an Early English -window and door. It is thus somewhat difficult to point out work which -belongs to that period when Wycliffe ministered in the building. The -greater part of the nave, however, may be thus assigned, and also the -fresco over the north doorway, showing a queen between two kings. Over -the chancel arch is another fresco. The nave roof is Perpendicular, -but the pulpit, from which the reformer preached, is the great object -of interest, dating as it does from a period anterior to Wycliffe's -incumbency, and is thus over 500 years old. A fragment of a cope or -chasuble is interesting as an undoubted relic, but the chair, table, -and wooden candlesticks must be regarded with suspicion--the chair -more than the others. The 'Morning Star of the Reformation' was buried -in the chancel, where his remains rested for thirty years; they were -then dug up, burnt, and cast into the river. - -The road from Lutterworth, rejoining the Watling Street, emerges at -the ~Cross-in-Hand~, where care must be taken in the selection of the -right road. From Cross-in-Hand to High Cross there is nothing of -particular moment, but at the latter place, where five roads meet, was -one of the most important junctions of Roman highways for the Watling -Street. It is crossed here by the Foss Way coming from Gloucester, and -leading through Leicester to Lincoln. The great station of _Venonae_ or -_Benones_ was situated here, but has entirely disappeared. Taking the -road marked 'To Holyhead,' the road leads over Smockington Hill, and a -few miles farther on a turning on the left to Nuneaton (two miles off -the main road) is reached. - -~Nuneaton~ lies in the centre of the 'George Eliot' country, and is the -Milverton of the novelist, while Chilvers Coton near it figures in -'Scenes of Clerical Life,' and 'Oldinport' may be traced in -'Newdegate,' the family name of the residents at Arbury Hall, a -delightfully situated country-seat a few miles to the south-west of -the town. Beyond this Nuneaton possesses no special features, except a -church built in the Decorated period, and another--St. Mary's--a -modern replica of the Abbey Church which formerly occupied the site. - -The spire of ~Hinckley Church~ is now seen upon the right, six miles to -the north of which lies the ~Battlefield of Bosworth~. The North -Warwickshire Coalfield has now been reached, and in the high ground -upon the left there is an interesting geological district. The stone -quarries worked there were formerly supposed to produce Millstone -Grit of the Carboniferous formation, but which has recently been -proved to be pre-Cambrian, and necessarily the most ancient of rocks. -~Hartshill~ is in this district; it is the birthplace of Michael -Drayton, and contains a few ruins of a Norman castle dating from 1125. -To the right of the Watling Street lies Fenny Drayton, where George -Fox, the founder of the sect of Quakers, was born. Before entering -Atherstone the small village of ~Witherley~ is passed upon the right, -and the River Anker here divides the site of the great Roman station -of _Manduessedum_ into two parts. The name has been anglicized into -~Mancetter~. The oblong earthwork yet remains, about 630 feet long and -440 feet broad. The church stands on the ruins of the western side of -the camp. Many coins have been found here, and great masses of Roman -masonry lie beneath the soil. The summer camps lie upon the adjacent -hills. The first turning on the left, after passing the bridge, leads -in a few minutes to Mancetter Manor House, originally built in 1135, -and presenting a quaint Edwardian appearance at the present day. In -1432 the Glovers occupied it, one of whom suffered martyrdom in the -Marian persecution. - - -ATHERSTONE, - -a singularly uninteresting looking town, whose staple manufacture is -felt hats, has a long, straggling street, a portion of the Watling -Street, and during sewage operations about fifty years ago the remains -of the original Roman road came to light, at some depth below the -present surface; some of the paving-stones, grooved by chariot wheels, -were in places cemented together. Henry of Richmond slept at the Three -Tuns Inn, now demolished, the night before Bosworth Battle, and heard -Mass in the church, which is not of great archaeological interest. - - - - -SECTION III - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY, 59 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - - =Atherstone= to Fazeley 7 - =Fazeley= to Tamworth 11/2 - =Tamworth= to Lichfield 7 - =Lichfield= to Muckley Corner 23/4 - =Muckley Corner= to Four Crosses Inn 83/4 - =Four Crosses Inn= to Gailey Station 23/4 - =Gailey Station= to Shifnal 113/4 - =Shifnal= to Oakengates 43/4 - =Oakengates= to Shrewsbury 123/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Atherstone to Lichfield.=--Undulating road with fine surface. - -=Lichfield to Shifnal.=--Almost level; surface fairly good, but the -direct road (Watling Street) is rough and has some steep hills near -Oakengates. The =Shifnal Loop= is, therefore, recommended. (See Route -Map 3.) - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Tamworth.=--An ancient town; historic castle; Perpendicular church. - -=Lichfield.=--Cathedral; statue of, and associations with, Samuel -Johnson. - -=Shifnal.=--Pretty town, with quaint timbered houses; church Norman, -Early English, and Decorated. - -=Wroxeter.=--The Roman _Uriconium_; Roman remains. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 3. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY.] - - -At ~Atherstone~ the railway is passed by a bridge, superseding a former -level-crossing. Immediately to the left a road leads to the site of -the almost demolished ~Merevale Abbey~, the chapel of which is still -used as a parish church, and contains recumbent effigies of the -Ferrers family. The road to Fazeley is undulating and uninteresting. -To the south of the town lies ~Drayton Manor~, the seat of the great Sir -Robert Peel. Here one is forcibly reminded by ocular evidence that -this is a mining district. A turning to the right leads to - - -TAMWORTH, - -one of the most ancient towns in Warwickshire and Staffordshire, for -it stands in both counties. It was a royal residence in the time of -the Heptarchy, and from that remote period to the present time the -castle has been of more or less importance--in fact, it is one of the -most ancient buildings in Central England. The mound upon which it -stands is of British origin; Queen Ethelfleda (died 918) erected the -castle which, with many alterations and additions, meets the view at -the present day. It has recently been acquired by the Corporation, and -is open to visitors. The ancient causeway leading to the entrance -presents the finest example of Saxon 'herring-bone' masonry to be -found in the kingdom. The circular keep is of picturesque red -sandstone, which does much to mitigate the effect of the Perpendicular -windows. The venerable building was the home of the Marmions, the -Frevilles, and the Ferrers, and in 'Marmion' we find: - - 'They hailed him lord of Fontenaye, - Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye, - Of Tamworth Tower and Town.' - -The last of the Marmions died in 1291. The bases of the dungeon walls -are four yards thick, and a visit to the castle interior gives the -impression of massive solidity. - -Tamworth Church, founded in the eighth century, was destroyed by the -Danes in 874, and rebuilt by King Edgar. In 1345 it was burnt, but -rebuilt. The crypt and two Norman transept arches remain of the early -building. The late Perpendicular tower contains a curious double -staircase, and is a prominent feature for many miles round. - - -LICHFIELD - -The road to Lichfield lies by the side of the River Tame for some -distance, but it passes through a colliery district; some finely -wooded knolls, however, occur on either side of the road. About three -miles before reaching the city the barracks are seen upon the right, -with an extensive common for training purposes; at the same time the -three Cathedral spires, 'The Ladies of the Vale,' form an attractive -feature in the landscape. The road leads directly to the ~Cathedral~, -which is one of those exquisitely pretty ecclesiastical edifices which -one wishes to put under a glass case for preservation from the -elements. It has been the seat of a bishopric since the seventh -century, and is connected with St. Chad. A Norman church succeeded the -Saxon edifice, but has entirely disappeared. The earliest part of -the present building, the west choir, dates from _c._ 1200; the south -and north transepts followed, and the nave and west front date from -about 1275. The eastern parts were finished in 1325. The central spire -was destroyed during the Civil War, and rebuilt by Sir Christopher -Wren. - -_The Cathedral is open to the public from 9.30 to 5 on weekdays._ - - [Illustration: LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL. - It is one of the smaller cathedrals, but its workmanship is of - an exquisite richness.] - -Upon entering the west front, which is one of the most beautiful in -England in the Decorated style, the Early English nave with dog-tooth -mouldings, the clustered pillars, and the fine vaulting, impress one -by their beauty and gracefulness. In the north transept one finds five -lancet windows, with Perpendicular examples on either side. In the -south transept the vaulted roof, with its huge bosses, and the large -Perpendicular window are special features, and here the rich stained -glass and the warm appearance of the red sandstone produce an effect -upon which the eye delights to dwell. The choir, with its side aisles, -richly vaulted roof, and huge windows springing from the triforium, at -once attract the visitor's attention. The early Decorated blank -arcading of the aisles is interesting, as is also the peep afforded -into a building upon the south side. In the south aisle of the -retro-choir a celebrated monument, the 'Sleeping Children,' touches a -chord that vibrates in the nature of all who possess the tenderness of -human sympathy. The Lady Chapel has rich Decorated arcading upon its -walls, from above which spring nine windows with trefoil tracery. In -seven of these is the stained glass that once adorned the great -Cistercian nunnery of Herckenrode, in the Bishopric of Liege. It dates -from 1530, and was brought to England after the suppression of the -nunnery in 1802. Although one of the smallest of English cathedrals, -Lichfield is singularly impressive by reason of beautiful details and -graceful proportions. Although actually situated in a valley, its site -is the highest in England, with the exception of St. Albans. - -In the Market Square stands the statue of Samuel Johnson, opposite -the house in which the great lexicographer first saw the light. - - * * * * * - -In order to rejoin the Watling Street, the road marked 'To Cannock' -should be taken, and about one and a half miles from the city a -turning to the right leads to that place. Continue, however, in the -same straight line for another one and a half miles, and the Watling -Street will be struck, leading off to the right at Muckley Corner. The -Roman station of _Eteocetum_ lies about one mile to the south-east at -Wall, where the Rycknield Street starts for the North. This is missed -by the detour to Tamworth and Lichfield. - -Near Brownhills Common a large piece of water--Cannock Chase -reservoir--lies to the right, and farther on another reservoir is -passed. Two miles beyond Gailey railway-bridge is the site of the -Roman station of _Pennocrucium_, near a roadside inn, and immediately -afterwards the Shropshire Union Canal crosses the road by an aqueduct. -Boscobel House and Park lie about a mile towards the south, with the -famous oak in which Charles hid himself after Worcester. A straight -run of seven miles passes by Weston Park, renowned for its beauty, and -brings one to a turning on the left, the main road to Shifnal. It is -advisable to pass through Shifnal and regain the Watling Street -farther on, and thus avoid the extremely bad road between Redhill and -Oakengates. - -~Shifnal~ is an interesting little town, possessing many quaint old -timbered houses, with overhanging upper stories, often enriched by -carving. A turning to the right in the middle of the town leads to the -~Church~. It possesses many curious remains of Norman architecture, -among which are the chancel arch and a portion of the south transept. -The main structure is Early English and Decorated, the tower arches -being of the former period. The tomb and effigy of the Prior of -Wombridge, 1526, and some Elizabethan monuments are in the chancel. -Over the south porch is a parvise, which projects in a novel manner -into the church, and is supported there upon two pillars. - -From Shifnal to Oakengates, the reputed site of _Uxaconium_, is mainly -downhill, and through a colliery district, with all the usual -concomitants pertaining to it. After a run of about six miles, during -which the Wrekin, 1,335 feet high, lies to the left, a turning at an -inn is reached leading to - - -WROXETER - -This is the ancient _Uriconium_, destroyed by fire in the fifth -century, and the imposing Roman remains form one of the chief -attractions for visitors in the immediate vicinity of Shrewsbury. To -the archaeologist it is of supreme interest, as an immense variety of -Roman remains have come to light, including many parts of the massive -walls, the basilica and public baths. There are also exposed to view -well-preserved examples of the hypocausts of villas. Should a detour -be made to the site of this important Roman town, the largest -encountered since leaving _Verulamium_, a good road will be found -leading back to the main route, and thence to Shrewsbury. Continuing -on the main road, one crosses the Severn, and keeps it for some time -upon the right hand. Entering Shrewsbury, the centre of the town is -approached by a steep hill, 1 in 10, where caution must be exercised -on account of the traffic. - -(_For town plan of Shrewsbury, see p. 77._) - - - - -LOOP No. 1 - -=FIRST PORTION=: SHREWSBURY, WHITCHURCH, CHESTER--=SECOND PORTION=: -CHESTER, MOLD, ST. ASAPH, RHYL--=THIRD PORTION=: RHYL, DENBIGH, -RUTHIN, CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, RUABON, WREXHAM, ELLESMERE, SHREWSBURY - - -SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 391/2 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Shrewsbury= to Wem Church 103/4 - =Wem Church= to Whitchurch 83/4 - =Whitchurch= to Broxton 10 - =Broxton= to Chester 10 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -On leaving =Shrewsbury=, descent of 1 in 10 in the town; dangerous. - -Road to =Chester= usually in good condition; surface splendid; no -steep gradients. - -Between =Shrewsbury= and =Wem=, undulating. - -From =Whitchurch=, general fall from about 400 feet to sea-level at -=Chester=. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Battlefield of Shrewsbury, 1403.=--About 3 miles from Shrewsbury; -Battlefield Church, Perpendicular. - -=Wem.=--Obelisk to Rowland Hill. - -=Whitchurch.=--Busy country town; church dating from 1711. - -=Rowton Moor.=--Three miles from Chester; battlefield, 1645. - -=Chester.=--One of the most picturesque walled towns in England; -Cathedral; town walls; the 'Rows' and other old houses. - - - [Map: Loop 1. SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER.] - -Leaving Shrewsbury by the Battlefield Road, and passing through the -unprepossessing parts of the old town, the church standing upon the -site of the battle becomes a conspicuous object when the higher ground -is reached, about a mile from the town. This remarkable memorial of -the terrible slaughter which took place in 1403 is necessarily of the -Perpendicular period, and at the present time is a simple parish -church, to which flocks a congregation eminently agricultural. -Restorations have taken place at various periods, but sufficient -remains of the original to make it of great interest. The site is that -upon which the fiercest part of the battle occurred, and where, after -the fight, the dead were crowded by hundreds into vast pits; for the -slaughter upon that fatal day was tremendous, numbering probably 8,000 -men. The army of Glendower, the Mortimers, and the Percies lost 5,000 -men by the most moderate estimate, and that of the victor, Henry of -Bolingbroke, was but little less, chiefly owing to the deadly accuracy -of the Cheshire bowmen of Percy's army, who at first almost -succeeded in winning the fray. But the King's army was double the -number of his opponents, and that always told in a civil war. For -three hours before sunset the struggle waged round the site of the -church, and when at last Percy's army broke and fled, they made for -Wem to the north, or the higher, wooded ground to the east. The road -to Whitchurch passes through Wem, from which Hawkstone Park may be -seen towards the west upon high ground, and the obelisk to Rowland -Hill. The scenery upon the route is eminently characteristic of -English pastoral life, with farmsteads and cottages nestling in -charming seclusion amid a wealth of foliage, or upon the summits of -the small undulations which diversify the Shropshire plain. At -intervals stretches of heath alternate with the cultivation, while -along the whole route the Welsh mountains form a broken sky-line to -the west. - -~Whitchurch~ is a busy country town with a market, and forms a centre -for the trade of the district. The remains of the castle which once -existed here were visible down to 1760, but now no traces can be seen. - -~The Church.~--The old church of Whitchurch fell in 1711, and the -edifice built upon the site is in heavy Romanesque architecture. There -are monuments in it to the Earls of Shrewsbury, one in armour being -representative of John, the first Earl, who was killed at Bordeaux in -1453, and whose remains were brought from France to be interred here. - -Soon after leaving Whitchurch, Overton Scar forms a conspicuous -feature in the landscape, lying to the left near the vale of the Dee. - -~Cholmondeley Castle~, three miles to the west of Malpas Station, is the -seat of the Marquis of Cholmondeley, and is situated in the Peckforton -Hills. The younger son of David le Clare settled here in Norman times. -The present castle is a modern building erected in the Norman style, -while the old hall, of Elizabethan foundation, was, unfortunately, -placed in the hands of Vanbrugh for restoration, and became so -completely altered in appearance that one would hardly guess its -origin. The district lying around these hills was the scene of many -encounters between the Royalists and Parliamentarians. Near Broxton -Station stands ~Carden Hall~, one of the most beautiful examples of -timbered mansions in the country. It was built in the time of -Elizabeth, but the Cardens were here in the reign of Henry VIII. The -Hall was garrisoned by the Royalists, but after being captured by the -other side was plundered, like most of the mansions in this county. -About a mile farther on ~Aldersey Hall~ stands to the left, about ten -furlongs from the road. It is asserted that it has been occupied by -the family of that name since the Norman Conquest. - -In ~Handley Church~ a good brass may be seen of the Venables family, and -~Calveley Hall~, once a manor-house and now converted into a farmhouse, -has a good oak staircase and some excellent wainscotting in the rooms. - -~Rowton Moor~ is reached next, where the Royalists suffered a defeat in -1645. The road passes through the battlefield. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 4--CHESTER.] - -CHESTER - -From Shrewsbury the road into Chester leads into Foregate Street, and -presently, after passing through a street of uninteresting suburban -character, the city proper is entered by the east gate in the walls, -the archway of which passes over the road. Upon the left is the -Grosvenor, a comfortable and well-managed hotel, conveniently situated -as a centre for seeing the many features of interest in Chester. The -journey from London along the Watling Street has been upon the track -of the Roman legions, and here at Chester--the ancient Deva--is found -the ultimate object of their journey, for this was the headquarters of -the famous Twentieth Legion, which occupied the town shortly before -the Boadicean Rebellion in A.D. 61, and remained there until the -evacuation of Britain in the early part of the fifth century. The old -town is suggestive of Rome's imperial power, for the ichnography of -the city to-day resembles in a remarkable fashion the great military -castra of the conquerors of the world. - - [Map: PLAN OF CHESTER CATHEDRAL. - _Based on that published by the late Dean Howson._] - -One of the first objects of interest is the ~Cathedral~, situated about -two minutes from the hotel by passing up Werburgh Street. It is one of -the red cathedrals, and owing to the sandstone of which it is composed -being of a friable nature, the veneering of the edifice with new stone -unfortunately deprives it of that aspect of age so characteristic of -the majority of the great churches of England. The earliest building -standing on the site is said to have been put up in the second -century, but of that no traces exist. The present structure dates from -the twelfth century, and has architecture as recent as the sixteenth. -Upon entering by the west door some Norman work is apparent at the end -of the nave, but its general style is Perpendicular; there is no -triforium, and the fenestration springs directly above the arches, -where an unornamental balustrading breaks the junction. The huge -Perpendicular window at the west end is not of any particular merit. -The large south transept was until recently used as a parish church, -and is remarkably spacious; it is late Decorated, and possesses -beautiful tracery in the window of the west aisle. Passing into the -choir, which is early Decorated, and has been completely restored, one -finds some exquisite work in the canopies of the stalls, which are -undoubtedly the finest in the kingdom. Especially interesting are the -quaint misereres; the Bishop's throne and pulpit are, however, modern. -A characteristic feature of architecture occurs in the triforium, -where four arches are superposed upon each of the bays below them. In -the north aisle wall are preserved some magnificent mosaics, -presented to the cathedral in 1886. The screen across the choir is -Perpendicular, and of singular beauty, but it prevents the eye from -perceiving the full length of the church, making it appear shorter -than is actually the case. The north transept is small, with Norman -work below and Perpendicular above. It will readily be seen that there -are two periods in the Norman work. The large tomb on the floor of -this transept is the resting-place of Bishop Pearson, who died in -1696. He is well known for his work on the Creed. The cloisters are -entered through a Norman doorway at the east end of the north wall of -the nave; the style throughout is Perpendicular, and the work on three -sides of the square is picturesque; the south side, which had -perished, has been rebuilt. An early Norman passage lies along the -west side of the cloister. The chapter-house, which may be entered -from this spot, is exceptionally worthy of a visit. It is of Early -English architecture and a beautiful example of the style; the -vestibule is, perhaps, more chaste than the chapter-house, and the -manner in which the mouldings of the pillars run up unbroken into the -vaulting is a striking feature. - -Upon leaving the cathedral by the same door at the west front and -turning to the right, the imposing Town Hall is seen in Northgate -Street, and opposite to it is the abbey gateway, a fine example of -Norman and Early English work, deserving more than a passing glance. -Continuing up Northgate Street, the ~Town Walls~ are reached, and can be -climbed by steps; the masonry here is probably of Roman origin. A few -paces to the right lead to the Phoenix Tower (_entrance 1d._), from -the summit of which Charles I. witnessed the defeat of his troops on -Rowton Moor, September 27, 1645, and not September 24, as stated on -the tablet. Retracing one's steps, the Shropshire Union Canal lies -below, occupying a portion of the ancient moat. The raised platform -upon the right which is now encountered affords a very fine view of -the surrounding country, and beyond is the Half-moon Tower, called -'Pemberton's Parlour.' From here the battlements lead to -Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, now used as a museum, and upon the level -sward below the visitor may perceive a number of Roman remains, -including a hypocaust, or warming apparatus, altars, and other -remains. The projecting isolated defence at this point is known as the -Water Tower. Continuing the walk, the well-known racecourse, called -the 'Roodee,' or 'Isle of the Cross,' is seen upon the right, -enclosed by a loop in the river, and presently the group of buildings, -consisting of the assize courts, gaol, and barracks, appear upon the -left, the whole being classified under the name of 'the Castle.' The -picturesque old bridge is next encountered, and here it is advisable -to leave the walls, as the remainder of the route is devoid of -interest. - -Passing up Bridge Street, the third turning upon the right is Pepper -Street, and after traversing this strangely named thoroughfare, the -~Church of St. John the Baptist~ is soon reached, one of the most -interesting buildings in the city. It was originally intended to be -the cathedral for the former diocese, which embraced practically the -whole of Mercia, but the dignity was conferred upon Coventry. The -ruins consist of very picturesque Norman work, with Norman and Early -English flanking arches. By applying to the sexton, who is usually in -the church, the Norman crypt may be visited. The nave of the church -has Norman cylindrical pillars, dating from about 1090; the triforium -arches are Early English of about a century later. A very fine lancet -window is at the west end. The central tower fell in 1574, and crushed -the east end of the church, which has never been rebuilt. The base of -the tower shows rich Norman arches, with clustered columns supporting -them. Traces of frescoes may be seen here. There are many displaced -monuments now resting at the west end; one, a knight, dates from _c._ -1240, and a lady from _c._ 1400. - -Retracing one's steps through Pepper Street, and passing up Bridge -Street, ~St. Peter's Church~ is reached. It was built on the site of the -Roman Praetorium, and in A.D. 907 the Church of SS. Peter and Paul was -removed here by Ethelfleda from the site of St. Werburgh's. The -edifice is mentioned in Domesday as the Church of St. Peter. The -rectors' names are preserved from 1195. The church is square in plan, -and consists only of four aisles; the architecture is Perpendicular, -and rude Georgian galleries disfigure two of the aisles. The far-famed -~Rows~ of Chester may be visited from this point; they are found in -Eastgate Street and Bridge Street in particular, but Watergate Row -should on no account be missed, because two houses of the south side -are striking specimens of seventeenth-century architecture. One bears -the inscription 'God's Providence is mine inheritance,' which is -supposed to allude to the preservation of the family occupying it from -the plague. On the same side, No. 11, is a remarkable medieval crypt, -now occupied by Quellyn Roberts and Co., wine merchants, who readily -allow visitors to descend into the vaulted chamber. - -This list of interesting sights of Chester is by no means exhaustive; -an exploration of the streets in almost any direction will afford -glimpses of old-time quaintnesses nestling in unsuspected byways, and -the eye can dwell with pleasure upon many architectural details and -rich colour schemes. - - - - -LOOP No. 1--SECOND PORTION - -CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 351/2 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Chester= to Broughton 5 - =Broughton= to Mold 7 - =Mold= to Caerwys 91/2 - =Caerwys= to St. Asaph 8 - =St. Asaph= to Rhuddlan 31/4 - =Rhuddlan= to Rhyl 23/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Chester to Mold.=--Tramcar-lines to Saltney, flat; then splendid -surface. - -=Broughton.=--Ascent 1 in 21; then level to Mold. - -=Mold.=--Fairly long hills to Caerwys; then level to Rhyl, except a -descent near Trefnant. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Mold.=--Small county town; church of florid Henry VII. architecture; -Bailey Hill, site of a British fortress; scene of the 'Alleluia -Victory.' - -=Cilcain.=--Church with magnificent oak roof. - -=Caerwys.=--Pretty scenery; the residence of Llewelyn. - -=Bodfari.=--Roman station. - -=St. Asaph.=--Small town, with cathedral, smallest in England and -Wales. - -=Rhuddlan.=--Edwardian castle, ruins. - -=Morfa Rhuddlan.=--Scene of a great battle between Offa of Mercia and -Caradoc. - -=Rhyl.=--Watering-place; splendid sands. - - - [Map: CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL. LOOP 1 (SECOND PORTION). - NOTE.--Denbigh is omitted on the way from Mold to Rhyl.] - -On leaving Chester the Grosvenor Bridge is crossed, and as far as -Saltney the road is occupied by tram-lines, while on looking backwards -a fine view of the city walls is obtained. After Saltney an excellent -road through the marshes enables one to see the wide estuary of the -river; but at Broughton, where the left-hand road should be taken, a -stiff rise of two miles leads to a plateau with an average elevation -of nearly 500 feet above sea-level, upon which the road remains for -the next twelve miles. The country here is well wooded, and Halkin -Mountain presents a fine appearance in front. The outskirts of a small -colliery district, with its centre at Buckley, are passed near -Padeswood, and presently Mold, the county town of Flint, is reached. - - -MOLD - -The town, which is rather sleepy and depressing, contains a church at -the summit of a steep hill to the right, thoroughly rebuilt in the -florid Tudor period early in the sixteenth century. The nave has some -ornate four-centred arches, and in the chancel some reputed -eighth-century work has been incorporated. - -Behind the church is the commencement of the ascent to Bailey Hill, an -eminence partly natural and partly artificial. It was once a British -fortress, and was subsequently occupied by a medieval castle, now -entirely vanished, and pleasure-grounds occupy the site. In the -immediate neighbourhood of Mold there are many objects of considerable -interest to the antiquary and geologist, such as the site of the -'Alleluia Victory,' won by an army of Christian converts under -Germanus, and who, by shouting 'Alleluia!' struck the Picts and Scots, -to whom they were opposed, with panic. In 1833 a gold breastplate of -Celtic workmanship was unearthed near the town, and is now a treasured -object in the British Museum. The ascent of Moel Fammau, 1,823 feet, -the highest peak in the Clwydian range, from which a magnificent -panorama is obtained, is easily accomplished from this town. - -Mold was once a flourishing place, with mines and smelting-works in -its vicinity, but they have now become unprofitable, with the -inevitable result of lowering the vitality of the town. The road -leading to St. Asaph passes a few coalpits near Mold, but presently -winds about in a valley between the Clwydian Range and the Halkin -Mountain. The village of ~Cilcain~ lies to the left of the route, at a -distance of two miles, on the lower slopes of Moel Fammau, and is -noted for the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought from -Basingwerke Abbey, near Holywell. Nature is now in her pleasantest -mood, and as the road winds with many a sharp turn down the long slope -towards ~Caerwys~, the mountains on both sides become softened and -rounded, and clothed in many parts with trees to their summits. Upon -the hills to the left lie a succession of interesting British camps, -the strongest and most extensive being Moel Arthur, 1,494 feet, -reached just before Nannerch appears by a road which branches off -close to a stone circle. ~Caerwys~ is believed to have been a Roman -station. It was at one time celebrated for its meetings of the bards, -or Eisteddfodau, and also as being the residence of the last native -Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Gruffydd. The whole of this district is rich -in memories of the past, and abounds in interest. After passing -Bodfari, where the railway crosses the road, a bridge over the River -Clwyd is reached, and directly afterwards the turn to the right should -be taken. (That to the left leads to Denbigh.) - -At this point one says good-bye to the track of the Roman legions, -~Bodfari~ (_Vara_) being the last of the stations to be passed. The -Roman road went straight ahead towards the west, and finished at -_Segontium_, which will be seen when passing through Carnarvon. Thus, -nearly all the way, from St. Albans through Shrewsbury to Chester, the -Watling Street has been followed. - - -ST. ASAPH - -This small village-city of 2,000 inhabitants is of consequence only on -account of its cathedral, conspicuously placed upon high ground, and a -prominent feature for many miles. To reach the time when this ancient -see did not exist, one must travel back before the sixth century. The -first building, of wood, was destroyed by fire in 1282, and the -edifice which succeeded it was nearly razed to the ground during the -wars under Owen Glendower. The present church practically dates from -1482; the choir, however, was not completed until 1770. It was -restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. St. Asaph is the smallest British -cathedral, being 182 feet long and 68 feet across the nave. The -interior presents the aspect of a spacious parish church, and -possesses only a few objects of interest. The east window is -Decorated, and the tracery of the side-windows based upon traces of -Early English work. The effigy of an Abbot in Episcopal robes, and -probably dating from the fifteenth century, lies in the south -transept. The road out of St. Asaph descends a steep hill, requiring -caution, and a run of about three miles along a level road, with a -sharp turning to the right over a bridge, leads to - - -RHUDDLAN CASTLE - -The entrance to the Vale of Clwyd is one of the chief strategic points -in Wales, and the elevated knob upon which the castle stands has, from -the most remote antiquity, been a place of strength. The early Welsh -fortress had additions early in the tenth century; it was taken by the -nephew of the Earl of Chester in 1098, and enlarged about sixty years -afterwards. The Welsh, however, captured it from the English in 1167, -and Llewelyn subsequently held it; but Edward I. gained possession, -and built the whole castle anew in 1277 upon an adjacent site. The -enormous walls, impressively grand in their massive proportions, are -his work. The castle appears to have remained in an efficient -condition to the time of the Civil War, when it was held by the -Royalists; but General Mytton captured it in 1646, and not long -afterwards it was dismantled. As one stands on the site, one -endeavours to visualize some of the many scenes of desperate warfare -which have happened upon and around this bold sandstone bluff, and the -cattle standing knee-deep in the translucent waters of the Clwyd, and -lazily brushing aside the clouds of flies, seem strangely out of -harmony with the memory of the wild hordes that have dashed against -these frowning walls. Within its easily traced fosse, and enclosing a -large area, there was formerly a priory of Dominicans, which has now -disappeared, but relics of it are preserved in Rhuddlan Church. From -the grassy strath within the walls the level plain reaching to Rhyl is -spread out very distinctly, and if the eye is allowed to wander to -Morfa Rhuddlan, which lies like a great alluvial marsh within the -triangle of Rhyl, Abergele, and Rhuddlan, the most desolate stretch in -Cambria, the site of that great battle in 795 is seen, when Offa, the -great king of Mercia, defeated the hordes of Caradoc, the king of -North Wales, with terrific slaughter. There probably exists no more -pathetic wail--the death-sob of a great nation--than that of 'Morfa -Rhuddlan,' which, next to the 'Men of Harlech,' is the most sung of -Welsh airs. - -The road to Rhyl is gained by passing through the village and taking -the first road to the left. This takes one directly to the esplanade -opposite the pier, where the Belvoir, a comfortable hotel, stands in a -convenient position. - - -RHYL - -Rhyl is essentially a watering-place, a watering-place pure and -simple, and it does not pretend to be anything else. Its bathing -facilities are magnificent, its sands are excellent for a gallop, and -the _beau ideal_ of parents with families, who fear that their -offspring may meet disaster unless a smooth sweep of sand is -available. It is healthy, bracing, peaceful, an excellent -'brain-emptier'--and that means much to the jaded man. He may be -exasperated by the pier entrance, which can only be termed doubly -debased Scottish architecture, but architecture by the sea is seldom -free from glaring faults. As a jumping-off ground for the Vale of the -Clwyd, and for the sea-gate of Wales at Abergele, it is convenient -both by road and rail. - - - - -LOOP No. 1--THIRD PORTION - -RHYL TO CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, WREXHAM, AND SHREWSBURY, 861/2 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Rhyl= to Denbigh 15 - =Denbigh= to Ruthin 73/4 - =Ruthin= to Corwen 121/2 - =Corwen= to Llangollen 10 - =Llangollen= to Wrexham 121/4 - =Wrexham= to Ellesmere 161/2 - =Ellesmere= to Shrewsbury 121/2 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Rhyl to Trefnant.=--A good road. - -=Trefnant.=--Ascent 1 in 14, then good to Denbigh. - -=Denbigh to Ruthin.=--Undulating; steep ascent in Ruthin, 1 in 11, -then good road until 2 miles from Corwen, when there is a descent of 1 -in 13. - -=Corwen to Llangollen.=--Slightly hilly; first-class surface. - -=Llangollen to Wrexham.=--Llangollen to Trevor excellent; Trevor to -Ruabon bumpy, then fairly good to Wrexham. - -=Wrexham to Ellesmere.=--Steep hill 1 mile from Wrexham, then -exceptionally good to Ellesmere; afterwards undulating to Shrewsbury. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Bodelwyddan Church.=--Two miles from Rhuddlan, _off the road_; -excellent example of modern architecture. - -=Cefn Caves.=--Three miles from St. Asaph, or 21/2 miles from Trefnant, -off the road. - -=Denbigh.=--The castle; ruins of the garrison church. - -=Llanrhaiadr.=--Church, with fifteenth century 'Jesse' window. - -=Ruthin.=--Castle, with beautiful surroundings; church, Perpendicular, -with splendid roof. - -=Corwen.=--Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard. - -=Llangollen.=--Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg Pillar; Dinas Bran castle; -Plas Newydd, the Bridge. - -=Ruabon.=--Church; Wynnstay Park and Monument. - -=Wrexham.=--Church, one of the Seven Wonders of Wales, Perpendicular -architecture. - -=Ellesmere.=--Church, with hatchet-work screen; old timbered houses; -picturesque lakes. - - - [Map: LOOP 1 (THIRD PORTION). DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY. - For the route from Rhyl to Denbigh see previous map.] - -For the first part of this section of the route the road is retraced -through Rhuddlan, and here, if the traveller be interested in a grand -example of modern ecclesiastical architecture, Bodelwyddan Church may -be visited. It lies two miles from Rhuddlan, to the right of the road; -was erected by Lady Willoughby de Broke; cost L60,000; and is called -the 'Marble Church,' from the whiteness of the local limestone of -which it is built. The spire and exterior are extremely pleasing, -while the richness of the interior, with its marbles, wood-carving, -stained glass, and excess of structural adornments, make it well -worth a visit. A good road leads back to the trunk route. - - -THE CEFN CAVES, - -reached by a side-road about two and a half miles from Trefnant. These -lie in the grounds of Cefn Hall, and are _open on Tuesday and Friday -afternoons_. They are deep cavities in the limestone rock, at one time -inhabited by primeval man, whose bones and many interesting relics of -his existence have been found by careful excavation of the floors. A -very fine view of the Vale of the Clwyd, which has been rather -overpraised, is obtained at this spot. - - [Illustration: SHREWSBURY HOUSE, CHESTER. - One of the many picturesque frontages for which the town is famous.] - - - [Map: DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.] - -DENBIGH - -In Denbigh a long, broad street leads up to the centre of the town, -and here the chief attraction, the castle, may be visited. Passing up -through a Norman gateway, which once formed part of the boundary of -the ancient town, and was called Burgess's Tower, the ruins of the -long-abandoned parish church, or garrison church of St. Hilary, are -seen on the spacious castle green. The old parish church of the town -is at ~Whitchurch~, on the road to Ruthin. The stately ruins of the -great Norman fortress, which kept watch and ward over this portion of -the Vale of the Clwyd for so many centuries, crowns the summit of this -conical hill, and is perched nearly 500 feet above sea-level. Long -before the Norman invasion this vantage-point had been seized upon for -a stronghold, but the great epoch for Denbigh happened when Edward I. -sat down in Rhuddlan and gathered into his conquering hands the fair -lands of Wales, consolidating his power by building a castle in each. -Denbigh and Ruthin, ruled by the Laceys and the Greys respectively, -formed the nuclei of two counties. Here Henry Percy, in the wars with -Glendower, tried to stem the tide of insurrection; and later, in -the Wars of the Roses, it was a centre of that desolation and -destruction which overwhelmed the valley under Jasper Tudor and the -Earl of Pembroke, and reduced it to a land of smouldering embers. But -one of the most stirring episodes in the history of the castle was the -grand defence made by Colonel William Salusbury, the stout old -Royalist, who, in the summer of 1646, valiantly held the walls against -the Parliamentarians. From April until November it was assaulted in -vain, for Salusbury had sworn that he would not surrender it except at -the bidding of his King. This was eventually obtained, and the -garrison marched out with, if possible, more than the honours of war. -Soon afterwards the castle was completely dismantled, and now chiefly -serves as a place of assembly for the townspeople, a recreation-ground, -and a coign of vantage, under favourable circumstances, for a splendid -view over the Vale. - -The road to Ruthin leads out of the busy market-place, and a mile -beyond the town one reaches the fine old church of ~Whitchurch~, now -only used for burial services. It belongs to the Perpendicular period, -and in it parts of the rood-screen may be seen, converted into a -reredos, and a screen at the west end of the north aisle. An -interesting brass to Richard Myddelton, who died 1575, is preserved -here; he was the Governor of Denbigh Castle, and is represented with -his wife and a small family of sixteen. The Myddeltons, like the -Salusburys, have left indelible traces upon this part of Wales, and of -the sons represented on the brass, one became a Lord Mayor of London, -and another, the sixth, is perhaps the best known to Englishmen, as he -was the celebrated Sir Hugh Myddelton who brought the New River to the -metropolis. The ancestral home of this family, Chirk Castle, will be -visited _en route_. - -After another one and a half miles, ~Llanrhaiadr Church~ is seen, whose -interior is interesting on account of the 'Jesse' window, of fine -fifteenth-century glass, purchased with the offerings of pilgrims to -the holy well in the wooded glen above the church. It is in a -remarkably good state of preservation, with the colours rich and -brilliant. Outside the east window are the graves of five soldiers who -fell in the famous siege of Denbigh; under one lies Captain Wynne, of -the great house of Gwydir, near Llanrwst. He died from wounds in the -castle, and by mutual arrangement the cortege was permitted to pass -through the lines of the beleaguers, the Parliamentarians firing the -last salute over the grave of the hero. - -Between Llanrhaiadr and Ruthin the highest points of the Clwydian -Range come prominently into view, the huge ruin on Moel Fammau, to -which reference has been made in connection with Mold, being plainly -visible. - - -RUTHIN (_RED CASTLE_) - -The road leads into the central square of the town, from the south -side of which issues Castle Street. The modern Ruthin Castle is -occupied by Colonel W. Cornwallis West, Lord-Lieutenant of -Denbighshire, and the ruins stand in the Park. (_Permission to enter -may be obtained at the lodge._) The remains consist of a dungeon, a -'Beheading Tower,' an armoury, and some curious passages. A -whipping-post is also preserved. The ruins, deep red in hue, and -mantled by the rich green of the clinging foliage, with a setting -beyond of the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd, form a picture rich -in colour. Reginald de Grey owned the castle shortly after its -erection in 1280, and it remained in the possession of his family -until about 1480. Owen Glendower attempted its capture in 1400, but -the Parliamentarians were more successful, for it fell in 1646, after -a siege of three months, from which time it has been a ruin. Sir -Thomas Myddelton of Chirk became owner, and the present possessor has -inherited it from him in the female line. The castle was partially -rebuilt in 1826, and brought to its present condition in 1852. - -The Church of St. Peter is an imposing edifice, chiefly Perpendicular, -and contains a finely decorated roof of Henry VII.'s period, -beautifully carved in black oak and divided into 500 small panels. The -old building adjacent and the church are the remains of a Priory of -White Friars, and form a very picturesque addition; near them are the -former buildings of the Grammar School, founded in 1574. The -foundation is now accommodated in better surroundings. - -The natural environs of Ruthin are of great beauty, and this part of -the Clwyd Valley is a favourite place of residence. Upon Moel Feulli -are the remains of a fortified British camp, enlarged by the Romans, -and from it and Moel Fammau magnificent views may be obtained. - -Leaving Ruthin, the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd is traversed, -and the watershed between the latter river and the Dee crossed at a -height of 600 feet. After passing through the narrow Vale of -Nantclwyd, with its towering limestone rocks, the small church of -~Derwen~, lying off the road to the right of Derwen Station, is seen. It -contains a handsome fifteenth-century screen and rood-loft, with a -time-honoured thirteenth-century cross in the churchyard. - - -CORWEN - -is a centre for the railway system of Wales, but possesses no special -attractions, unless the mark of Owen Glendower's dagger upon the -lintel of the south door of the church, inflicted, so it is said, when -in a pet, be deemed one, though probably the tradition had its origin -in the dagger carved on the shaft of an eighth-century cross in the -same churchyard. The summit of the rock behind the town, whereon -stands a cairn, was the point whence Glendower reviewed his troops -previous to the Battle of Shrewsbury. The short climb is rewarded by a -pleasing view. - - -LLANGOLLEN - -is reached by a part of the Telford-Holyhead road, which is generally -in magnificent condition. Pretty views of the Dee, the Berwyn -Mountains on the right, the Llantysilio Mountains on the left, and the -Eglwyseg rocks in front, are obtained, and the most beautiful part of -the hill country of Wales, as contrasted with the mountain scenery, is -presented to the eye. The loveliest views are those lying round the -town, rivalling in beauty, and perhaps surpassing, any found elsewhere -in Britain. ~The Bridge~ is one of the "Wonders of Wales," dating from -1345, and ~Plas Newydd~, lying about half a mile from the bridge, the -residence of the famed ladies of Llangollen, should on no account be -missed. The romance of their lives is too lengthy for inclusion here, -but may be readily learnt on the spot. The house is an aggregation of -carved oak within and without. No one should visit Llangollen without -ascending ~Castell Dinas Bran~, which towers to a height of 1,000 feet -above the village. The origin of the quaint ruins upon the summit is -lost in antiquity, but is attributed to one of the early Princes of -Powis. The tide of war has raged scores of times round the hoary -fragments upon the crest, which look like the eyrie of a robber baron -or the fantastic imaginings of a Dore. When the castle emerges into -the light of history we find that Griffith, the son of Madoc, occupied -it in the thirteenth century, and that about a hundred years -afterwards it fell into ruin. - - - [Map: VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY: GROUND PLAN.] - -VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY - -(_admission 6d._) lies two miles by road from Llangollen. Founded by -the above-named Griffith in A.D. 1200, it is necessarily in the Early -English style, and dog-tooth ornamentation may be discovered in the -west end. The beautiful ruin appeals to artist and antiquary alike, -and is considered the most picturesque in Wales. A little way off to -the north is ~Eliseg's Pillar~, a most astonishing early monument put up -by Concenn ap Cadell ap Brochmail to the memory of his great-grandfather, -Eliseg, who lived as far back as the beginning of the seventh century. -It is no longer possible to read the Latin inscription giving these -facts, and the remarkable monument itself has suffered much -mutilation. Llangollen is a town in which a week can be spent with -profit and pleasure, so numerous are the places of interest in the -immediate neighbourhood. The fine escarpment of the limestone rocks, -the Eglwyseg, lying above the village, are conspicuous on the left for -some distance on leaving for Ruabon through the Vale of Llangollen, -where the famed Wynnstay Park is situated, the residence of Sir H. -Watkin Williams-Wynn, Bart. The house is not on view, but admission to -the park is freely given by application at the lodge gates, close to -the town. The associations of the park are, however, the chief -point in connection with it, for the Wynns go back into remote -antiquity, and the history of North Wales and the members of this -family are inseparable. The pillar standing above the swiftly rushing -Dee is a cenotaph perpetuating the names of those who fell in the -Irish rebellion of '98, when a Wynn took his company of yeomanry over -the water to help in the suppression. - - [Illustration: THE SWALLOW FALLS, BETTWS-Y-COED. - The finest waterfall in Wales.] - - -WREXHAM - -From Ruabon to Wrexham tram-lines run by the side of the road, but -they do not cause much inconvenience, and the road is good. The chief -object for visiting the town is to view the church, which is one of -the finest, if not _the_ finest, in the Principality, and enumerated -among the "Seven Wonders of Wales." It was erected in 1472 to replace -a former structure destroyed by fire. It is a splendid example of -Perpendicular architecture, the tower of six stages and 135 feet in -height being probably unsurpassed, and the rich peal of ten bells it -contains are celebrated far and wide--they were made in 1726. The -church contains monuments to the Myddelton and other families, and in -the churchyard the Elihu Yale tomb is of exceptional interest to -Americans. - - -ELLESMERE - -At Wrexham one turns towards the south to Shrewsbury, and Ellesmere is -the first town calling for comment. There are many old carved timber -houses to be seen, a beautiful contrast to the modern box-of-bricks -erections which now so frequently serve for dwellings. No trace of the -castle now remains; its site is occupied by a bowling-green, whence a -view into nine counties is obtained. The church is chiefly of -Perpendicular architecture, and is worth visiting. The chancel screen -is of hatchet-work, and over the door may be seen the groove in which -the rood formerly stood. The Oteley Chapel has a quaint figure, -_temp._ Edward IV., on the north-west pier, and also an altar-tomb -with recumbent figures. The mere from which the town gained its name -lies close at hand; four other meres are in the vicinity, and these, -with other pleasant concomitants, help to make very pretty and -charming scenery for some distance on the road to Shrewsbury. Shortly -after leaving the town the Ellesmere Canal--one of Telford's great -works--is crossed. - - - - -SECTION IV (TRUNK ROUTE) - -SHREWSBURY TO LLANDUDNO, 811/2 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Shrewsbury= to Oswestry 17 - =Oswestry= to Chirk 53/4 - =Chirk= to Llangollen 63/4 - =Llangollen= to Corwen 10 - =Corwen= to Cerrig-y-Druidon 93/4 - =Cerrig-y-Druidon= to Pentre Voelas 51/2 - =Pentre Voelas= to Bettws-y-Coed 63/4 - =Bettws-y-Coed= to Llanrwst 41/2 - =Llanrwst= to Tal-y-Cafn 63/4 - =Tal-y-Cafn= to Glan Conway 33/4 - =Glan Conway= to Llandudno 5 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=The Holyhead Road=.--Splendid surface; perfect condition generally. - -Dangerous hill in =Shrewsbury=. - -A fairly stiff ascent at =Chirk=, 1 in 18. - -Road ascends from =Corwen to Cerrig-y-Druidon=. - -Last 9 miles into =Bettws-y-Coed= downhill. - -=Bettws-y-Coed to Tal-y-Cafn.=--Level, then a hill, up and down, 1 in -12. - -=Near Llandudno Junction.=--Steep ascent, 1 in 10. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Shrewsbury.=--Castle; free library and museum; market-house; -churches; public gardens; town walls. - -=Montford Bridge.=--Pretty road. - -=Oswestry.=--Castle mound; church, with a fine tower. - -=Chirk.=--Castle of great interest; viaduct; aqueduct. - -=Llangollen.=--Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg's Pillar; bridge. The really -fine scenery lies beyond Llangollen. - -=Corwen.=--Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard. - -=Conway Falls.=--Pandy Mill and Falls, Swallow Falls, all about 2 -miles short of Bettws-y-Coed, upon the left, where the Conway Falls -Inn will be seen. - -=Bettws-y-Coed.=--Waterloo Bridge (Dolwyddelan Castle). - -=Llanrwst.=--Bridge; Gwydir Castle and Chapel. - -=Conway.=--Castle; bridge; walls of the town; church. - -=Llandudno.=--Watering-place; Great Orme's Head; St. Tudno's Church. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 4. SHREWSBURY TO CORWEN.] - -~Shrewsbury.~--To pass through Shropshire without seeing Shrewsbury -would be tantamount to journeying through Italy without visiting Rome. -Its physical features are strikingly picturesque, and it has almost as -many antiquities as Chester. Fortunately, too, the objects of interest -are grouped together. - -[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 3--SHREWSBURY.] - -The town lies in a loop of the Severn, with the castle protecting the -opening. It is of red sandstone, and dates in part from the time of -Edward I. The grounds are open, but the building is private. The free -library and museum, opposite the castle, occupy the old buildings of -Shrewsbury School, founded in the reign of Edward VI. The museum -contains many 'finds' from _Uriconium_. The school now occupies -magnificent buildings south of the town. Passing up Castle Street, the -old Council House gateway is upon the left, and soon after a turn to -the left at the post office brings one to ~St. Mary's Church~, a noble -building, of which the base of the tower and the nave are Norman, the -transept Early English, and the aisles Perpendicular, and other -portions late Perpendicular. The tower, with its spire 222 feet high, -is the third loftiest in the kingdom. The general appearance of the -interior is very beautiful, and the Jesse window of fourteenth-century -glass should be especially noticed; it was originally in the Grey -Friars' monastery. The glass as a whole excels that of any other -English parish church; the St. Bernard window, for example, on the -north side of the altar, attributed to Albert Duerer, came from a -church at Cologne. ~St. Alkmund's Church~ can be seen from St. Mary's, -and passing that, and also St. Julian's Church, the old Wyle Cop may -be reached. Among the ancient timbered houses there is one in which -Henry VII. stayed prior to Bosworth in 1485. Passing over the English -Bridge, the ~Abbey Church~ is reached, with its imposing west front and -great Perpendicular window, and the tower, the base of which is -Norman, rising from the west end of the nave. Internally the latter -possesses three massive Norman bays, and two of the Early English -period, a fine arch in the latter style dividing it from the tower. -The chancel and clerestory have been rebuilt recently in good taste. -There are some interesting monumental effigies; one in the south -aisle is supposed to represent the founder, Roger, Earl of Shrewsbury, -died 1094. In this church, then the Chapel of the Monastery of the -Holy Cross, Richard II. held the 'great Parliament' in 1377. - -Returning to the town, the road by Beeches Lane will lead by way of -the old walls to Murivance Tower, the only one remaining of the twenty -which once guarded the town. A short distance farther on, the -'Quarry,' with its beautiful avenues of lime-trees by the river, is -reached, one of the spots of which Shrewsbury is justly proud. - -Having safely negotiated the dangerous hill in Shrewsbury, the road -to Oswestry is easily found, and, as nothing of supreme importance is -encountered before that town appears, the beauties of the Holyhead -Road may be appreciated. - - -OSWESTRY - -The Church possesses a remarkably fine tower, which presents a -venerable appearance by reason of the growth of vegetation upon it. A -portion was pulled down during the Civil War, and rebuilt some time -after the Restoration. The interior should be visited, although there -are no special features upon which to dilate. About a mile to the -north of the town lies Old Oswestry, a very fine and well-preserved -earthwork, consisting of three concentric circles of defences. A -portion of Wat's Dyke lies adjacent. This was the first ditch made by -Offa, King of Mercia, in the eighth century to prevent Welsh -incursions; the second, called Offa's Dyke, was dug a few miles nearer -the Welsh border, and generally parallel to the first. - -A stiff rise in the road announces that ~Chirk~ is at hand, and the -celebrated castle is the first point of interest. - - -CHIRK CASTLE, - -anciently, Castel-y-Waen, is the only example of the thirty great -fortalices in Shropshire erected to control the Welsh border which -remains in complete repair and is occupied at the present time. It is -indelibly associated with the Myddeltons, an ancient Denbigh family -who have been identified with every popular movement in that part of -the country for centuries past. The present owner is Mr. Richard -Myddelton. - - (_The Castle is open Mondays and Tuesdays 2 to 5 p.m., 1s. - each person; other days special orders, Estate Office, - Chirk, 5s. for three persons._) - -The builder of the existing fortress was Roger Mortimer, Lord of -Chirk, who in 1310 commenced work upon the site of Castell Crogen, -which dated from 1011. In 1595 it came into the possession of Sir -Thomas Myddelton, subsequently Lord Mayor of London. Sir Hugh -Myddelton, of New River fame, was his brother. The Royalists seized -the castle in the absence of the second Sir Thomas Myddelton, a -Parliamentarian, who had the pleasant experience of battering his own -property in the endeavour to retake it. Becoming disgusted with -Parliamentarian excesses, he became Royalist again, and was besieged. -So much damage was done by the artillery of Cromwell that L30,000 were -spent subsequently on repairs. - -It is a quadrangular structure, with embattled walls, four towers of -great strength at the angles, and another defending the gateway. A -court of considerable area occupies the centre. Some very interesting -pictures form part of the treasures of the house, and among them is -the exquisite cabinet given to Sir Thomas by Charles II. The exterior -aspect is extremely pleasing, with ivy-covered walls and red-grey -stonework forming a background to the old-world gardens. Traces of -Offa's Dyke occur near the farmhouse at the foot of the castle. The -beautiful Ceriog Valley is an attractive feature of this -neighbourhood. - -The road to Llangollen from Chirk commands a fine view of the vale, -and a sight of one of the most striking features of the Dee Valley, -the great aqueduct conveying the canal across it at a height of 120 -feet above the river. An iron trough in the stonework contains the -water. There are nineteen arches, and the length is over 1,000 feet. -It is one of Telford's masterpieces. - - (_For a description of the route from Llangollen to Corwen, - see pp. 69-71._) - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 4. CORWEN TO LLANDUDNO.] - -Leaving Corwen, the river is passed by a bridge, and a glimpse -afforded up the Vale of Edeyrnion to the left, at the end of which -lies Bala Lake and the source of the Dee. There are many glimpses of -charming scenery and nestling homesteads to be seen between Corwen and -Cerrig-y-Druidon, although the latter lies upon a somewhat bare -tableland perched nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. The British camp -of Pen-y-Gaer lies to the right of it. Pentre Voelas is situated at -the beginning of the long descent into Bettws, and this part of the -road commands as beautiful scenery as one could wish to see. A little -more than four miles beyond Pentre Voelas is a turning on the left to -Penmachno, and a few yards farther on the Conway Falls are seen at the -bottom of a deep ravine. The celebrated Fairy Glen may be reached by -means of a broad green path, which leaves the main road at the same -place as that leading to the Conway Falls. The wicket-gate, beyond -which the glen is reached, is nearly three-quarters of a mile down -this track. The beauty of the glen is so conspicuously appealing that -it has won for itself an almost world-wide renown. The road from this -point descends rapidly, crosses the Waterloo Bridge, and enters -Bettws-y-Coed. - - -BETTWS Y COED. - -The charm of this delightful locality is felt by everyone who comes -within its influence. From the village itself not a mountain is -visible, but all around are beautiful glades and the profuse richness -of vegetation flourishing in subtle, harmonious accord with rocks and -dashing waters. The Miner's Bridge lies about a mile along the Capel -Curig Road, with the Swallow Falls a mile farther. To Capel Garmon a -footpath ascends, and also a zigzag road. It affords a magnificent -panoramic view of the chief heights of the Snowdonian Range, with the -exception of Snowdon itself, which is hidden by the grand mass of -Moel Siabod. An interesting cromlech lies near Capel Garmon. - -Resuming the journey, the road to Llanrwst passes over the Waterloo -Bridge and turns sharply to the left. Llyn-y-Parc is seen across the -Conway, lying at the base of spurs projecting from the mountains -beyond, and Gwydir Castle appears at the farther end of it. - - -LLANRWST - -This ancient market town contains a church dating from the fifteenth -century, when it replaced a much older one. It contains several -interesting monuments and an elaborate screen. The beautiful Gwydir -Chapel was designed by Inigo Jones; it dates from 1633, and contains -five brasses of members of the Wynne family. The large stone coffin of -Llewellyn the Great, son-in-law of King John, is preserved here, -having been removed from Conway Abbey. The effigy in armour represents -Howel Coetmore, who led a hundred Denbighshire men at Poitiers. - -~Gwydir Castle~ was built in 1555, and partly rebuilt in 1816. In the -absence of the family (Lord Carrington is the owner) it is possible -that the interesting interior may be seen. The park contains much -natural beauty, one conspicuous feature being the lofty Falcon Rock -behind the house. Llanrwst Bridge, built by Inigo Jones in 1636, is -said to tremble if sudden pressure be placed on one of the parapets. - -Two miles out of Llanrwst the village of ~Trefriew~ is seen across the -river, a summer resort and inland watering-place. Presently the site -of Maenan Abbey, which disappeared at the Reformation, is passed, -before reaching Maenan House. The mountains lying between the Conway -Valley and Nant Ffrancon now present a fine spectacle. Shortly after -Tal-y-Cafn a dangerous hill is encountered, and from its summit the -Roman station of _Canovium_, situated near Caerhun on the -Carnarvonshire side, may be discerned. As the fishing at this part of -the estuary is noted, some coracles may perhaps be seen. The road -between Glan Conway and Llandudno reveals grand views of Conway -Castle and Mountain, and all the varied scenery which makes the -estuary so famous. - - -LLANDUDNO - -The 'Biarritz of Britain' is not an inappropriate name for this -favoured town, which possesses every advantage of splendid climate, -beautiful scenery, and perfect bathing. - -Great Orme's Head is generally the object of the first excursion. In -the early morning it looks very imposing, with the exquisite effect of -moving mist lying upon the placid waters of the bay at its base, and -the summit of the great limestone mass reddened by the hues of the -rising sun. It may be seen from the carriage-road which circles it, -and affords splendid views of mountain and sea, probably unsurpassed -in the kingdom; but the best way is to ascend to the summit by a -well-marked road north of the town leading from Church Street, and to -visit St. Tudno's Church, with its quaint entrance, 41/2 feet in height, -of rugged stones, and its general aspect of antiquity. The church is -seen from Telegraph Point, which dominates the peninsula. A cromlech -lies to the left of the road leading to it, and the remains of a stone -circle are above the church. There is plenty of rough scrambling to be -obtained. - -The carriage-drive is best entered near the pier (_motors one shilling -toll; pedestrians one penny_). The way rises and falls like the -Corniche Road; red rocks alternate with white or grey limestone; at -times the track is at a giddy height, and presently near the surface -of the water. The view up the Menai Straits, with the coasts of -Anglesey and Carnarvon nearing each other at the bridges, is very -fine, but when the farthest point of the headland is reached, that -which leads back to the town is no less beautiful, affording as it -does one of the finest prospects of the noble outline of the -Carnarvonshire Mountains. - -The visitor should not fail to visit the Little Orme, where the sheer -cliffs and grassy summit often offer a seclusion much appreciated -after the boisterous exuberances of an August crowd. There are many -coigns of vantage around Llandudno from which the appreciative -traveller can gaze over mountain, sea, and strath, and also a number -of interesting edifices that may be visited if sufficient time is -allowed. - -Unlike Aberystwyth, there is a considerable choice of hotels at -Llandudno. The Queen's is recommended for its fine position on the -front and for its general excellence. - - [Illustration: CONWAY FROM BENARTH. - On the left is the famous Edwardian castle and leading to it is - Telford's tubular bridge. Great Orme's Head appears in the distance.] - - - - -SECTION V - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 183/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Llandudno= to Conway 33/4 - =Conway= to Penmaenmawr 41/2 - =Penmaenmawr= to Llanfairfechan 23/4 - =Llanfairfechan= to Bangor 73/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -At =Penmaenmawr= a gradient of 1 in 14. - -Before reaching =Llanfairfechan= 1 in 12. Surface good. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Conway.=--The suspension bridge by Telford; castle; church; the -medieval town walls and bastions; Plas Mawr, a sixteenth-century -house. - -=Penmaenmawr.=--Fine cliff scenery; large British fort above quarries. - -=Llanfairfechan.=--A typical Welsh watering-place. - -=Aber.=--Falls. - -=Bangor.=--Model village of Llandegai; Penrhyn Castle; cathedral; -University buildings. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 5. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR.] - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 5--CONWAY.] - -The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by -Telford, the harmony of the towers with the adjacent castle being a -subject of general congratulation. The entrance to ~the Castle~ -(_admission 3d._) is close to the end of the bridge. The structure -possesses the characteristics of Edwardian castles, with more -ornamentation than usual, and was undoubtedly, when perfect, one of -the most magnificent fortresses in the kingdom. It commands, as usual, -one of the roads through the passes leading from Wales--that from the -Snowdon district and Anglesey. The chief points of interest are the -Queen's Tower, with its oratory, the Great Hall, the King's Tower, and -the Broken Tower. It is a matter for surprise that so much remains of -interest in the castle to the present day, which, like nearly all the -castles in Wales, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The soft -grey colour of the stone, and the warm, rich greens and browns of the -foliage which creeps over them, is exceptionally pleasing; the -delightful views of the surrounding country, and the wonderful -position occupied by the massive walls, all conduce to render Conway -Castle a conspicuous landmark in the recollection of the traveller. - -In passing down Castle Street, a late Perpendicular carved stone on -the front of a house on the south side is of interest, and so also is -a quaint building, now a temperance hall, dating from the year 1400. - -One of the entrances ~to the Church~ lies in this street. The building -is of the Decorated period, and is of great interest, as it contains a -Perpendicular rood-loft, richly carved, with priests' entrance in -perfect preservation, and a fine screen; a lace humeral and corporal -400 years old, preserved behind glass in the vestry; and a curious -post-Reformation arched tomb on the south side of the chancel. - -~The Walls~ of Conway are unique, and form the best example in Europe of -thirteenth-century scientific fortification. The Saracenic influence -engendered by the Crusades is strongly exemplified in their -construction; they are one mile in circuit, about 12 feet thick, with -four gates and many semicircular towers. The feature of piercing the -merlons of the battlements for the discharge of arrows is exemplified -here, as in the castle. This undulating, encircling wall, clothed with -creepers in parts, and presenting picturesque features at every turn, -is a dream of medievalism not often encountered. Upon the quay stands -the reputed smallest house in Great Britain, squeezed into a corner of -the fortifications; one can stand in the road and shake hands with a -person in the upper story. - -~Plas Mawr~, or Queen Elizabeth's Palace (_admission 6d._), dates from -1585, and has its chief frontage in Crown Lane. It is a perfectly -preserved example of the architecture of that period, and abounds in -archaeological objects of interest. The 365 windows and 52 doors are -not merely a coincidence. - - * * * * * - -Leaving Conway, the ~Sychnant Pass~ may be traversed if desired; it is a -steep road leading over the mountains to Penmaenmawr, revealing fine -views over the whole district. - -The main road leads round the coast via Penmaenbach Point, near Conway -Mountain (upon which are traces of an ancient fort). At ~Penmaenmawr~ -one finds a cluster of modern villas, of every size and design, -nestling at the foot of an enormous mass of stone towering up to a -height of 1,550 feet--the well-known Penmaenmawr Mountain. Upon the -summit, which affords a magnificent view for many miles round, are the -ruins of one of the strongest of the early British forts, said to -have accommodated 20,000 men. It is a matter for infinite regret that -this important link with primitive Wales should be doomed to disappear -through the steady advance of the huge quarries now eating into the -hill. These quarries, and the steep tramway-lines up to them, also -very seriously detract from the beauty of the spot. After leaving the -village, the great round hump upon the summit of the mountain can be -plainly seen from the road. - -At ~Llanfairfechan~, a small seaside resort, one reaches a typical Welsh -resort--bathing-machines and sands combined with incipient -mountain-climbing. - -~The Falls at Aber~ are two miles from the road, and can only be reached -by footpath. The effect of the falls varies greatly with the season; -but the climb up the valley towards Foel Fras is very fine. The road -now passes inland somewhat, and the views of the Straits, of -Beaumaris, and of Puffin Island, hitherto enjoyed, become obscured by -trees. Near Bangor one of the entrances to the park surrounding -Penrhyn Castle is seen upon the right, and here is the Model Village -of Llandegai, interesting to those engaged in the social problems of -the day. Workmen on the Penrhyn estate are housed in pretty cottages -grouped in twos or threes, and placed in gardens. Avenues of trees -shade the village roads, in the middle of which is Llandegai Church -(_the key generally hangs up in the porch_). A tomb with two recumbent -effigies of interest lies within: it came from Llanfaes Priory, but -whom it represents is not known; the armour of the knight and the -costume of the lady point to _c._ 1470. The church is charmingly clean -and well kept. In the village no public-house is allowed, a state of -things which has been productive of the very best results. - -The road runs some distance by the park, and at times affords a view -of ~Penrhyn Castle~, the entrance to which is seen upon taking a sharp -turn to the right, when Penrhyn Port is perceived; the bridge leads up -to the gateway. (_Open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 10 to 5; 2s. -for one person; 1s. extra for each additional one. Half the proceeds -goes to local hospitals._) The castle is an impressive modern -reproduction of a Norman fortress; the keep reminds one of Rochester, -and is really fine. The interior is worth a visit, if only to see how -Lord Penrhyn has adapted modern luxury to the rough Norman -architecture. - - -BANGOR - -Upon leaving the castle, University College is passed upon the right, -and a drive through the street leads to an open triangular space, -where the cathedral comes into sight. Although the cathedral site has -a rich history, having been occupied by the first church about 525, -yet the present edifice is singularly uninteresting and unimpressive. -This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the Saxon church was -destroyed in 1071, the Norman successor in 1211, and the Early English -building in 1407, when it was reduced to ruins, and remained so for -nearly a century. Consequently, the main part of the present edifice -only dates from Henry VII.'s reign, and the tower from 1532. There is -nothing of interest in the cathedral and but little outside. The -clock, however, upon the occasion of the writer's recent visit, was -worth noting, as the hands, the striking parts, and Greenwich time, -were all at variance. Thus, when the hands pointed to 9.54, Greenwich -time was 9.49, and the clock struck 10. - - [Illustration: CONWAY VALLEY. - A peep of the River Conway between Bettws-y-Coed and Conway.] - -From the road leading downwards by the cathedral there is a view of -the new University buildings, placed upon a commanding site -overlooking the town. Lower Bangor lies in an amphitheatre of -hills, upon which Upper Bangor is being built, the latter embracing -the fashionable part of the town, and also the goal of pleasure-seekers, -who patronize the sands and the pier. - - - - -LOOP No. 2 - -BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 201/4 MILES - -(The scenery of these twenty miles is so remarkably impressive that -this short run is strongly recommended. The return journey can be made -via Conway (as described in Section V.), a distance of thirty miles, -or a return by the same road need not be shirked, for the scenery -unfolds fresh glories when travelling in the opposite direction.) - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Bangor= to Bethesda 51/4 - =Bethesda= to Llyn Ogwen 41/2 - =Llyn Ogwen= to Capel Curig 5 - =Capel Curig= to Bettws-y-Coed 51/2 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -A steady rise from =Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen=, then level for 2 miles. - -A long descent to =Bettws-y-Coed=, steep at times. Surface good. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Penrhyn Castle.=--Modern Norman structure (open to public). - -=Llandegai Model Village.=--Church, with interesting tomb. - -=Bethesda Slate Quarries.= - -=Nant Ffrancon.=--Scenery wild and grand. - -=Llyn Idwal and the Devil's Kitchen.=--Stern rock and lake scenery. - -=Llyn Ogwen.=--A wild lake among the mountains. - -=Capel Curig.=--The Cyfyng Falls; grand view of Snowdon. - -=Bettws-y-Coed= (see p. 84).--A charming village in a steep leafy -valley. - - - [Map: LOOP 2. BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED.] - -Those who wish to see Wales in all its aspects should on no account -miss the twenty-mile run from Bangor to Bettws. It has been termed the -most impressive pass in North Wales, and poetically referred to as -'Beauty sleeping in the lap of Horror.' To fully grasp the feeling of -the place a walk through it on a mild winter's day is desirable, and -on January 1 of last year one of the writers experienced that -sensation, when flying scud and wild lashing torrents of occasional -rain from whirling masses of black clouds upon the sombre peaks added -a realistic force to the wildness of the scene. - -The road leading to Penrhyn Castle and Llandegai is that which should -be taken. At Bethesda a typical slate-quarrying town is reached, with -great 'tips' of refuse encircling it; the continual roar and rattle of -engines, dragging tramloads of slate, high above the roadway, is -punctuated with the occasional boom of the blastings. The quarries may -be visited if desired, when a memorable sight will be witnessed. - -There is nothing in this centre of Welsh Nonconformity of antiquarian -interest, and soon a steady ascent leads from it into the Nant -Ffrancon Pass, presumably the Valley of Beavers. Upon the right lies a -range of mountains, each over 3,000 feet in height, and well known to -climbers--Elidyr Fawr, Y Garn, and Glyder Fawr, with Glyder Fach -straight in front, and the giant mass of Moel Siabod behind it. On the -left, Carnedd Llewelyn, 3,484 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet, -send down great shoulders into the pass, where the winding road, ever -ascending, climbs above the grassy valley lying between the encircling -giants. At Benglog Bridge, where the foaming Afon Ogwen leaps down the -boulders in a torrent, one is nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. Here -the lonely Llyn Ogwen comes into view, but before passing it the short -clamber over rocks to Llyn Idwal should on no account be omitted. The -path begins behind the little inn, and winds by the side of the stream -draining from the lake which abruptly comes into view. This lonely -tarn, with its waters reflecting the black scarp of Glyder Fawr, -seldom or never lit up by the sun's rays, and often lashed into foam -by the fierce eddies sweeping down from the mountains, is the very -embodiment of awe-inspiring impressiveness. Even if the day be -beautiful there is a wild loneliness, which is accentuated by the -legend of Prince Idwal being brutally murdered here by Dunawt at the -instigation of his father, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his -parents. - -The terrific black chasm seen in the rocks overshadowing the pool is -named ~Twll Du~, or ~the Black Cleft~, but popularly 'The Devil's -Kitchen.' It is 450 feet high and 100 feet deep, narrowing in places -to 6 feet wide. A foaming cataract of troubled waters pours down, -forming in its fall the hollows at the base termed 'The Devil's Pots.' -Many fatal accidents to climbers have occurred here in ascending to -Llyn Bochlwyd, lying nearly 700 feet higher, on Glyder Fach, last year -(1910) being by no means immune. - -South of Lake Ogwen, ~Tryfaen~, the three-headed mountain, is remarkably -impressive. Soon after the lake is passed a descent commences to Capel -Curig, where a magnificent view of the eastern slopes of Snowdon is -obtained between Moel Siabod and Glyder Fawr. The combined waters of -the Llugwy and Nant-y-Gwryd accompany the road as it leads downwards -to Bettws-y-Coed, with the Swallow Falls and Miners' Bridge, as -previously noticed (see p. 84). - - - - -SECTION VI - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY, 653/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Bangor= to Carnarvon 9 - =Carnarvon= to Llanberis 71/2 - =Llanberis= to Pen-y-Gwryd 61/2 - =Pen-y-Gwryd= to Beddgelert 73/4 - =Beddgelert= to Penrhyn Deudraeth 71/2 - =Penrhyn Deudraeth= to Harlech 61/2 - =Harlech= to Barmouth 11 - =Barmouth= to Dolgelley 10 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Bangor to Carnarvon.=--Nearly level and splendid surface. - -=Carnarvon to Llanberis.=--Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy -gradients and good surface. - -Steady rise through =Pass of Llanberis=. - -Remainder of the route splendid surface, with occasional moderate -hills. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Carnarvon.=--The Roman town of _Segontium_; magnificent -thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church. - -Splendid views of the =Snowdon precipices=. - -=Llanberis.=--A popular resort consisting of old and new villages; -Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway. - -=Pass of Llanberis.=--Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery. - -=Beddgelert.=--A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church; -prettiest part of route. - -=Aberglaslyn.=--Pass and bridge; delightful scenery. - -=Penrhyn.=--Ffestiniog Toy Railway; Deudraeth Castle, of modern -construction. - -=Harlech.=--County town (small) of Merioneth; castle in commanding -position. - -=Llanbedr.=--A village; Llyn Cwm Bychan, a wild lake; Roman steps. - -=Llanddwywe.=--Church; Cors-y-Gedol cromlechs. - -=Llanaber.=--Church, Early English architecture; interesting stone -relic. - -=Barmouth.=--Modern watering-place; bridge; panorama walk; magnificent -views of the estuary of the Mawddach. - -=Bontddu.=--Water-fall. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.] - - [Map: No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.] - -The road from Bangor leads past the ~Menai Suspension Bridge~ over the -Straits, once a wonder of the world, but now overshadowed by the Forth -Bridge and others. It was opened in 1826. The total length of the -roadway is 1,000 feet, which is suspended over the water at a height -of 100 feet above the highest spring-tide. The view from the bridge is -most picturesque, but it is hardly worth while to take a car over. -(_Motor-car 2s. toll; foot passengers 1d. each._) The bridge has a -very distinct swing in a high wind. Farther on one sees the ~Britannia -Tubular Bridge~, opened in 1850, and carrying the railway across in two -hollow tubes of enormous strength. No one can accuse this engineering -feat of being beautiful, but it has thoroughly proved its efficiency. -The Anglesey Column forms a prominent landmark at the farther end of -the bridge; it was erected as a memorial of the Marquis of Anglesey -who distinguished himself at Waterloo. The well-known Plas Newydd, the -residence of the present peer, lies adjacent, and there also is the -village of ~Llanfair~, sometimes Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, and a full name -of fifty-four letters if one is still more respectful. At Port -Dinorwic vessels load up with slates from Bethesda. The view of the -Anglesey coast is fine at first, but the shores gradually deteriorate -as one reaches Carnarvon, eventually spreading out in mud flats. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 6--CARNARVON.] - -CARNARVON - -As the great Roman town and fortress of _Segontium_, the reputed -birthplace of Constantine the Great, the site of a famous feudal -fortress, and the birthplace of the first Prince of Wales, Carnarvon -undoubtedly occupies a unique position in British history, and, as it -still possesses tangible evidences of most of its past record, the -traveller is unwise who passes by without a stay of at least a few -hours' duration, though a few days would be more appropriate. - - [Map: GROUND PLAN OF CARNARVON CASTLE. - - A. Eagle Tower. - B. Queen's Tower. - C. Chamberlain's Tower. - D. Black Tower. - E. Granary Tower. - F. Well Tower. - G. Banqueting Hall.] - -Behind the Royal Hotel, which is passed on entering the town, is a -small rocky knob, easily climbed, called Twt Hill, a coign of vantage -for viewing the Carnarvon mountains, the Straits, Anglesey, and -Carnarvon itself. On a clear day the mountains of Wicklow can be seen, -and as a practical exponent of the ichnography of the town the hill is -of great use. The approach to the castle by a narrow road suddenly -reveals a view of ~Carnarvon Castle~, the vast dimensions of which may -probably be best gleaned by walking down to the slate wharf on the -River Seoint, laving the walls. Here the great height of the walls, -the quality of the excellent stonework, and the general effect of -impregnability, are realized. Returning to the main entrance, the -great arch known as the ~Queen's Doorway~ is passed high up in the -wall; it is the traditional spot whence the infant Edward was shown to -the Welsh chieftains by his father. The drawbridge at one time crossed -the street at this point; an inn now occupies the sight of the -barbican. Within the castle (_admission 4d._) the visitor is at once -struck with the idea that a medieval fortress in its entirety is -presented to the view; there are no crumbling ruins or ivy-clad masses -of fallen masonry, as in the majority of structures of this nature. -This is accounted for by the fact that it belongs to the Crown, and -every stone as it becomes weathered is carefully replaced. The castle -is, in fact, a most interesting study for the archaeologist, as -illustrating medieval methods of defence. The Eagle Tower, the reputed -apartment where Edward II. was born, the Queen's Gateway, and other -interesting parts, are pointed out by the keeper. It should be -remembered that the castle is the finest in Europe except one; that it -was built by Edward I. in 1283, heightened by Edward II., garrisoned -by the Royalists in the Civil War under Lord Byron, and after an able -defence surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who ordered its -demolition in 1660, which was fortunately not carried out. ~The Town -Walls~ of Carnarvon are interesting objects to the visitor, as is also -St. Mary's Church, built into the walls, a tower forming the vestry -and the walls two sides of the church. - -Of _Segontium_, the great Roman station, but little remains. A portion -of the wall, in bad condition, lies in a narrow lane at the top of the -hill, gained by ascending Pool Street and Tithebarn Street and passing -round to the right, at the back of the Rectory, before reaching -Llanbeblig Church. There are other and better sections to be seen by -making inquiries. In one instance, in the front-garden of a house, it -is some 20 feet in height, formed of beautifully squared stones, and -can be seen from the roadway; by the courtesy of the occupiers it is -quite possible for a nearer view to be obtained. This wall undoubtedly -extended to the river. - - * * * * * - -The road to ~Llanberis~ leads from Castle Square up Pool Street for a -short distance, when Llanberis Road is entered. The route is to a -certain extent spoilt at first by intrusive chimneys and other -industrial manifestations. Llyn Padarn has also been ruined by -quarries, and probably was never celebrated for scenery. The peak of -Snowdon is seen intermittently upon the right, but the chief mountain -features are Elidyr Fawr (the other side of which has been seen from -Nant Ffrancon) and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet. - -~Llanberis~ is a favourite tourists' resort for fishing and -mountain-climbing, and a headquarters for excursions to neighbouring -points. - -~Dolbadarn Castle~ is of remote antiquity, and probably existed in the -sixth century, its position making it a fortress of importance. It has -probably seen as much wild work as any castle in Wales, especially -during the Glendower period, being the master-key to the Snowdon -region. - -~Old Llanberis~, beyond Llyn Peris, is more picturesque than the new, -and contains a church, which is chiefly interesting on account of the -graves in the churchyard of those who have lost their lives on -Snowdon. The entrance to the famous ~Pass of Llanberis~, between Glyder -Fawr and Snowdon, is very impressive, and the narrowness of the valley -gives it a distinct character compared with Nant Ffrancon. It is -probably the finest mountain defile traversed by a carriage-road in -the Principality. A huge mass of rock, which in falling has produced a -natural cromlech, is to be seen on the left. The summit of Glyder Fawr -appears before the end of the pass is reached, but that of Snowdon is -still hidden. The highest point of the pass is 1,179 feet above -sea-level. The views obtained upon reaching Pen-y-Gwryd are a relief -after the wildness of the route traversed. Moel Siabod to the left -front, with the sugar-loaf height of Cynicht, are prominent features, -while the view down the Gwynant Valley is one of the sweetest -prospects in Wales. At the hotel occurs an abrupt turning to the -right, and a sharp descent leads to Llyn Gwynant, a picturesque lake, -from which a grand view of the rugged slopes of Snowdon is obtained. -Llyn-y-Ddinas, farther on, is scarcely less pleasing. Soon afterwards - - -BEDDGELERT - -is entered, the most romantically situated village in Wales, standing -at the junction of three valleys, leading respectively to Carnarvon, -Portmadoc, and Capel Curig, and surrounded by a grand array of -mountain peaks. It derives its name from the story of Llewellyn's -hound, and means 'the grave of Gelert.' The rude monument said to -have been erected by the Prince in his repentance for the hasty act -may be reached in a few hundred yards from the village. Moel Habog, -2,566 feet, is an easy climb from here. The road to Penrhyn Deudraeth -leads through the romantic Pass of Aberglaslyn, and emerges upon the -far-famed bridge, where the rich colouring of the rocks, full of -exquisite contrasts with the foliage, delights the eye at every -glance. There are many parts of Switzerland that afford similar -visions of beauty and grandeur, but what Pont Aberglaslyn loses in -size it gains in the beauty of its colour. The junction of two roads -occurs here--one to Tremadoc, the other to Penrhyn. The latter drops -to an extensive and dreary plain, Traeth Mawr, across which the road -winds with many a sharp turn. The views of the distant mountains are -very effective, while straight in front the Castle of Harlech becomes -a prominent feature, with the waters of Cardigan Bay to right and -left. - - [Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF PENMAENMAWR. - Between Conway and Bangor.] - -~Penrhyn Deudraeth~ is a mining village of no interest, except as the -starting-point of the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway. Here the river -draining the Vale of Ffestiniog enters a large sheet of water called -Traeth Bach, and, crossing it by a bridge, the Morfa Harlech, an -uninteresting flat, is entered, with the modern Castle of Deudraeth to -the right. Here the road runs between the Morfa and the high country -to the left, until it reaches the little town of - - -HARLECH - -Unless the visitor should happen to be a golfer and a frequenter of -the famous St. David's Club Links, there is practically nothing of -interest in the neighbourhood except the castle, famous in history and -song, which occupies a precipitous elevation in the front of the town. -The entry is opposite the Castle Hotel. (_Admission 4d._) A fortress -of some sort existed as early as the third century, when Bronwen, or -White-Bosomed, the daughter of Bran the Blessed, lived here. About 550 -a more substantial pile was raised, but this in turn was replaced by -the present castle, built by Edward I. in 1280, who, however, -incorporated much of the older building in his new fortress. In 1404 -it was seized by Glendower, but retaken by the King's troops in 1408. -Margaret of Anjou took refuge in it after Northampton in 1460. Edward -IV., after a long siege, captured it in 1468, and the 'March of the -Men of Harlech' dates from that period. During the Civil War the -castle was alternately in possession of both parties. It is now Crown -property. The magnificent view from the battlements should be seen. -Across the bay, seven miles, is the sister castle of Criccieth, while -the long promontory of Carnarvon, termed Lleyn, forms a bold feature -on the north-western horizon. The two highest elevations on the -promontory are The Rivals, and Bardsey Island is the detached -fragment. To the right there is a line of mountain peaks to Moel Hebod -and the Snowdon heights. Two and a half miles to the south of Harlech -the Island of Mochras lies off the shore, joined at low tide by an -isthmus. It is chiefly visited for its beautiful shells. Near it is -the commencement of the Sarn Badrig, a curious ledge of rocks, bare at -low tide, which runs far out into the waters of the bay. A similar -formation, though of less extent, lies off Aberystwyth. To the -antiquary the country to the east of Harlech is of the greatest -interest; it teems with relics, chiefly prehistoric, such as -cromlechs, stone circles, and dolmens. The far-famed Roman Steps, the -Lake of Cwm Bychan, with its abnormally savage surroundings, the Drws -Ardudwy, all lie in this interesting hinterland, mostly far away from -the main road. Near Llanbedr, however, between the road and the river, -and just short of the village, are two long stones, and another -bearing an Ogham inscription. ~Llanddwywe Church~ is not of any -particular interest, but two cromlechs stand nearly opposite the -King's Head Inn, about eighty yards from the road. The large cromlech -known as Arthur's Quoit is at some distance, near Cors-y-Gedol, the -old seat of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Cors-y-Gedol. The church at -~Llanaber~ is of Early English architecture, and should be visited. An -inscribed stone of much interest and with various decipherings stands -near the north-west door; it was found below low-water mark on the -beach near the church. - - -BARMOUTH - -This rather overbuilt watering-place is situated in a romantic -position at the mouth of the Mawddach, and is remarkable for its -genial winter climate, the town being protected by the high hills -surrounding it. Apart from the visitors who crowd into the town during -the summer season, there are a great number who utilize it as a centre -for mountaineering, antiquarian, geological, and fishing excursions. -The houses are built up the face of the cliff, so that the -chimney-pots of one house are opposite the front-door of the house -behind, and it is possible to diagnose a neighbour's dinner by the -odours thus conveyed. The church is new, but some interesting -geological contortions occur near it. The view from the railway bridge -is one of the most remarkable in Wales. (_The toll is 2d., and one of -the best times for seeing the estuary and its mountainous setting is -at sunset._) High tide helps the scene enormously. A rich and sombre -purple, partly clothing the mountains, melts into exquisite gradations -of green and velvety browns. Cader Idris, upon the right, fills all -that side of the picture; the Arrans furnish the centre distance; -while the outliers of Llawr Lech and Y Garn occupy the left. A -well-known projection on the flanks of Cader is the Giant's Nose. - -The Panorama Walk is a favourite stroll from Barmouth; it is commenced -at a terrace bearing the curious name of Porkington, and -direction-boards indicate the route. The path truly deserves the name -it has been given, although the labelling of scenery in this way is -exceedingly distasteful. - - -THE ESTUARY OF THE MAWDDACH - -The road to Dolgelley lies upon the northern shore of this famous -estuary, and for beauty and impressiveness cannot easily be -overpraised. The many windings in the road accentuate its charm, -glimpses, sometimes of entrancing beauty, being frequently presented -to the traveller. Besides the scenery there are no special objects to -be indicated upon the road; just beyond Brintirion, however, a stream -descends which has passed through the gold-field of St. David's, lying -upon the slopes of the mountain above. The ruins of ~Cymmer Abbey~, near -Llanelltyd, remind one forcibly of Valle Crucis Abbey, so charming and -reposeful are the surroundings. It was founded _c._ 1200 by the -Cistercians, and dissolved at the Reformation. The adjoining farmhouse -contains parts of the refectory and abbot's lodging. The eastern -portion of the church is in the best preservation, and upon the south -are a few Early English arches and pillars. The road here turns -sharply to the right to Dolgelley, and, entering this quaintly-situated -little town, the Golden Lion Hotel is found in the market-place near the -church. - - - - -LOOP No. 3 - -DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Dolgelley= to Penmaenpool 21/2 - =Penmaenpool= to Arthog 41/2 - =Arthog= to Llwyngwril 5 - =Llwyngwril= to Llanegryn 4 - =Llanegryn= to Abergynolwyn 6 - =Abergynolwyn= to Tal-y-llyn 3 - =Tal-y-llyn= to Corris 4 - =Corris= to Machynlleth 5 - =Machynlleth= to Cemmaes 6 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -Surface to =Llwyngwril= excellent. - -Near =Arthog= gradient of 1 in 10. - -Near =Friog= gradient of 1 in 14. - -Ascent of 1 in 9 near =Abergynolwyn=, and descent of 1 in 6 into the -village. - -After =Tal-y-llyn= ascent of 1 in 7, and descent to =Corris= 1 in 16. - -Surface generally good to =Machynlleth=. - -Then excellent road, but hilly, to =Cemmaes=. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Arthog.=--Waterfalls. - -=Llwyngwril.=--A village; remains of Castell-y-Gaer. - -=Llanegryn.=--Church with magnificent rood-loft; Bird Rock in -distance. - -=Tal-y-llyn.=--A lake near Cader Idris. - -=Corris.=--Toy railway; slate district. - -=Machynlleth.=--Market town; remains of old Senate-house. - - - [Map: LOOP 3. DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN.] - -The road from Dolgelley passes, with many windings, from the town to -the estuary at Penmaenpool, to which place excursion steamers run -during the summer from Barmouth. Although the scenery upon the south -bank of the Mawddach is not so fine as that upon the north, yet the -mountains of Ardudwy, as the hinterland of Barmouth was anciently -called, present an imposing aspect, and sometimes compose a pretty -picture when seen through the umbrageous foliage which lines the road -on both sides. If the tide be high, the view is accentuated by the -reflections in the broad expanse of water, and singularly beautiful -glimpses are at times displayed. The undulating road, flanked at times -by the universal whitewashed cottages, reaches ~Arthog~, a small village -situated at the base of a finely wooded, diversified ground, about a -mile from which are the Arthog Lakes, and at a short distance from the -hotel a waterfall, of considerable beauty after a heavy fall of -rain, but much attenuated in dry weather. At Friog the slate quarries -are apparent on the left of the road, and a steady rise begins, -leading to an excellent retrospective view of Barmouth, Harlech -Castle, and the Lleyn Peninsula to Bardsey. - - [Illustration: SNOWDON FROM TRAETH MAWR.] - - -LLWYNGWRIL - -is a small village, with the Dyffryn River passing through it under a -bridge. Castell-y-Gaer lies upon its banks at a short distance up the -stream, consisting of small masses of broken ivy-clad masonry, of an -unknown fortress so far as history is concerned. Upon the bridge -before mentioned on Sunday evenings after church or chapel the youths -and maidens of the village congregate to sing the sweet Welsh refrains -handed down through long generations, and harmonized with a beauty of -feeling which only a music-loving nation can express. Among the men -singularly rich basses prevail; north of Barmouth, strange to say, -tenors predominate. The route turns abruptly inland beyond -Llangelynin, and the village of - - -LLANEGRYN, - -lying off the main road, but approached by a lane, appears on the -left. It contains a church well worth visiting, inasmuch as the superb -rood-screen is among the finest in the British Isles. It is of early -Perpendicular work, and the loft above is quite perfect except for the -actual rood and the figures of saints. A good roof and an interesting -Norman font should also be noticed. - - -THE BIRD ROCK - -may be seen from this point, an isolated crag of peculiar shape -standing up black and dour against the mountains beyond. The weird -beauty of the landscape can hardly be overpraised. The road leading -straight onwards passes almost underneath the rock, but the main route -to the right descends to the bridge over the river, draining the -Dysynni Valley, and Tal-y-llyn. Here are some sharp turns, but -presently the very narrow road is reached, leading directly to the -lake. Passing another vehicle is not an easy matter. The scenery -increases in beauty as one progresses, the little railway to the right -having scarcely the smallest deteriorating effect upon the valley. The -ruins of Castell-y-Bere, formerly one of the largest in Wales, and -once visited by Edward I., lie in the adjacent valley to the left, to -which the narrow road leads, coming into Abergynolwyn on the left. - - -TAL-Y-LLYN - -Tal-y-llyn is a quarter of a mile in width, and a little over a mile -in length. It lies under Cader Idris, although the summit is not -visible from it; two great craters, however, carved in its rocky -flanks, form a fitting background on the left. In front lies a valley, -by ascending which the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ is reached, and subsequently -Dolgelley. Extravagant praise has been lavished upon the lake by many -travellers, but one misses some essentials to claims of exceptional -beauty. No quality of mystery appeals to the imagination; the lake -does not lie in an appalling neighbourhood of black riven rocks or in -a glen of surpassing beauty. All is open, and the whole is seen at one -vision. Anglers, however, find Tal-y-llyn an ideal spot. At the -farther end of the lake the road, after a branch track to the right by -a cottage has been passed, turns to the right up a steep ascent, from -whose summit a retrospective view of the lake is perhaps the best -obtainable. The road to Corris through Nant Gwgan is pretty, with -occasional waterfalls and stone slides from the shoulders of mountains -towering hundreds of feet above the pass. The rich browns and greens -and subtler shades of grey form charming contrasts of colour. -Unfortunately, the lower end of the pass is disfigured by many slate -quarries. Upper Corris is strongly reminiscent of Bethesda. A monument -is erected here on the left side of the road to Alfred W. Hughes, -F.R.C.S., who died in 1900 of fever during the war in South Africa. A -quarry railway, with a miniature station and a gauge of 2 feet 3 -inches, runs by the side of the road. At Corris, which is a -slate-mining town pure and simple, the road trends to the right, and -the view becomes less circumscribed as the vale of Afon Dulas widens -out. When the Dovey Valley is reached a wide expanse of alluvial land -comes into view, through which the river meanders westwards towards -its estuary. - - -MACHYNLLETH - -Machynlleth is a spacious and well-built market town and borough with -two main streets, wide and pleasant, with well-kept shops, thus -forming a marked contrast in that respect to the majority of Welsh -towns. It forms one of the centres of the woollen industry of the -county, and indulges somewhat in the tanning business as well. The -clock-tower is a prominent object; the church has no features of -interest worth recording; the Market-house dates only from 1783, and -of antiquarian curiosities there are but few. An old black-and-white -cottage at the end of Maengwyn Street, which branches off to the left -at the chief main street, has 'OWEN PUGH O VXOR 1628' for 'Owen Pugh -and wife.' The 'O,' however, is baffling as a conjunction. Opposite -are portions of the old Senate-house, the reputed building in which -Owen Glendower succeeded in persuading the nobles and commons to -acknowledge him Prince of Wales in 1402. Upon the hills surrounding -Machynlleth remains occur which appear to indicate that the town was a -Roman station, and coins have occasionally been found to confirm -this. A good road up the Valley of the Dovey leads to Cemmaes, where -the trunk route is again reached. - -(_For a description of the road from Cemmaes to Dolgelley, see Section -VII._) - - - - -LOOP No. 4 - - -CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 493/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Cemmaes= to Machynlleth 51/2 - =Machynlleth= to Talybont 103/4 - =Talybont= to Aberystwyth 91/4 - =Aberystwyth= to Goginan 71/2 - =Goginan= to Ponterwyd 41/4 - =Ponterwyd= to Dyffryn Castell Hotel 2 - =Dyffryn Castell Hotel= to Llangurig 101/2 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Cemmaes to Aberystwyth.=--Good surface all the way, but hilly; worst -gradients before and after Talybont, 1 in 13 and 1 in 11. - -First 12 miles after =Aberystwyth= splendid surface, then becomes a -little rough and bumpy to =Llangurig=. - -There are some steep hills in the neighbourhood of the =Devil's -Bridge=. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Glandovey= (or =Glan Dyfi=).--Entrance for the beautiful Lyfnant -Valley; view over the estuary. - -=Aberystwyth.=--A considerable town, with ruins of an Edwardian castle -and the University buildings. - -=The Devil's Bridge.=--Grand scenery; the Parson's Bridge; the Punch -Bowl. - - - [Map: Loop 4. CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG.] - -The road down the Valley of the Dovey presents a pretty panorama, but -possesses no particular feature to arrest attention--it is merely a -pleasant drive. - - -GLANDOVEY - -This small place stands at the entrance to the Lyfnant Valley, one of -the most distractingly beautiful little glens in the whole of Wales, -with waterfalls, torrents, and utter wildness of vegetation, and -stern, bleak splendour at the farther end, where Pistyll-y-Llyn -showers its two foaming torrents headlong into the black caldron -beneath. The first cataract met, the Glaspwll Cascade, is a fine one, -but it cannot vie with the more remote example. There is a prettily -situated small castle on the left of the road. The estuary of the -Dovey now appears, and if the tide be at the flood, presents a very -fine prospect. Aberdovey generally has a brig or two lying off the -quay. An extensive salt marsh now comes into view, between which and -the high land the road runs. ~Borth~ lies on the coast of this plain; -its hydro, links, and beautiful sands attract visitors during the -summer. At Tre-Taliesin we are reminded of the grave of Taliesin, the -'King of the Bards' during the sixth century; the pilgrimage to his -grave, which lies about a mile to the left of the road, is a favourite -one from Aberystwyth. Two miles farther on the remains of a British -camp or fort crown the summit of Moel-y-Gaer, close to the road upon -the right; they are remarkably well preserved, and in the -neighbourhood are some Druidical circles. In this district the open -country around is quite park-like in many places; at times, however, -it reminds one of parts of Devonshire. About two miles from -Aberystwyth there is a beautiful vista of Cardigan Bay and the coast -laved by its waters, with the town lying below at the termination of a -long and rather trying hill. - - -ABERYSTWYTH - -Aberystwyth not only boasts of a high antiquity, but also of having -been the commercial centre for the Mid-Welsh counties. The trade has -now dwindled, but as a watering-place it easily holds its own as one -of the most frequented in Wales. The chief points of interest are: - -~The Castle~, the ruins of which occupy a position of prominence in the -centre of the town, was built by Gilbert de Strongbow in the reign of -Henry I. It was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, and rebuilt by Edward I.; -in the Civil War it was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The -grounds are now laid out in pleasant walks, affording fine views of -the coast. - -~The University Buildings~ adjoin the castle, and may be termed one of -the finest examples of recent architecture in the Principality. The -general effect of the modern buildings in the town is depressing, -probably owing to the use of the dark Silurian stone, covered with the -universal slate roof. - -The town is happy in having an immediate neighbourhood of great -interest to the antiquary and to the ordinary tourist, inasmuch as -many pleasant excursions may be indulged in, such, for example, as the -visits to Strata Florida Abbey, the Monk's Cave, Lyfnant Valley, and -the Devil's Bridge. - -The route to Llangurig commences in Aberystwyth, in Northgate Street, -and runs through Llanbadarn. At Pont Erwydd a road leads south to the -Devil's Bridge, fifteen miles, a feature which should not on any -account be missed. - -An alternative route, eleven and three-quarter miles to the bridge, is -a part of the direct road to Rhayader. - -(_a_) ~First Route, the Pont Erwydd.~--Road level for first six miles, -then rise to 1,027 feet; hilly. - -~Llanbadarn.~--Church much restored. - -~Bangor~ to ~Goginan~.--Lead-mines have destroyed scenery. A wild country -around Pont Erwydd, where the route turns to the right. - -(_b_) ~Alternative Route.~--The direct road to Devil's Bridge commences -in Bridge Street, crosses the harbour, and passes under the railway. - -About five miles out Cader Idris appears, twenty miles away to the -left. The view afterwards into the Rheidol Valley is very fine. The -highest point of the road, 989 feet above sea-level, commands a fine -view of the two peaks of Plynlimmon. Castell-fan-Crach is a -prehistoric earthwork. - -~The Devil's Bridge~ is situated in what is probably the finest and most -picturesque glen in the British Isles; the approach to it by either of -the roads described gives only a slight idea of its merits. The monks -of Strata Florida Abbey are supposed to have built the arch in the -time of Rufus; the second bridge dates from 1814. The Devil's Punch -Bowl, the Robbers' Cave, and the Falls of the Rheidol, should be seen. - -The road to Llangurig from Pont Erwydd leads through a bare valley -containing a large number of abandoned lead-mines--the dead hopes of -thousands of sanguine speculators. The highest point of the road, -1,368 feet, is only two and a half miles from the summit of Plynlimmon -(2,469 feet high), about two miles from the source of the Wye, and -four miles from that of the Severn. The mountain is dull and -uninteresting, being more of a flat spreading lump than a peak, and -has extensive tracts of bog-land and marsh. Descending towards -Llangurig, the Wye is crossed near an inn, and accompanies the road -down the valley, which is cultivated to a certain extent in its lower -portion. At Llangurig the main route is reached between Llanidloes and -Rhayader. - -(_For a description of the 301/2 miles between Llangurig and Cemmaes, -see Section VII._) - - - - -SECTION VII - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG, 481/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Dolgelley= to Cross Foxes 31/2 - =Cross Foxes= to Dinas Mawddwy 7 - =Dinas Mawddwy= to Cemmaes 71/4 - =Cemmaes= to Llanbrynmair 53/4 - =Llanbrynmair= to Carno 6 - =Carno= to Caersws 51/4 - =Caersws= to Llandinam 21/2 - =Llandinam= to Llanidloes 6 - =Llanidloes= to Llangurig 5 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -Steady rise to =Cross Foxes=, then very steep ascent to top of =Cold -Door Pass= (1 in 8), 988 feet high. - -Easy descent to =Dinas Mawddwy=. - -=Dinas Mawddwy to Carno.=--Undulating, but a rise just before Carno, 1 -in 12. - -=Carno to Caersws.=--Steady descent, occasionally sharp. - -After =Caersws= undulating, with a few stiff hills to =Llangurig=. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Dolgelley.=--Small town possessing little interest in itself. -Surroundings include Torrent Walk, Precipice Walk, Cader Idris, and -innumerable spots to which excursions on foot may be taken. - -=Cross Foxes.=--Splendid view from near this inn. - -=Dinas Mawddwy.=--A little town, prettily situated; grand view of Aran -Mawddwy, 2,970 feet. - -=Talerddig.=--A natural rock arch. - -=Caersws.=--Small village on site of Roman station, with visible -earthworks. - -=Llanidloes.=--A typical Welsh market town; the church; Van Mines. - -=Llangurig.=--The highest village in Wales. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 7. DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG.] - -DOLGELLEY, - -the capital town of Merionethshire, is situated in a wide and fertile -valley of singular beauty at the foot of Cader Idris. The streets are -exceptionally short and irregular. The parish church of St. Mary has -no particular merits; in it is preserved a fourteenth-century effigy -of one of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Nannau. From Dolgelley various -excursions may be made to such places of rare beauty as the ~Precipice -Walk~, cut high up on the face of Moel Cynwch, with views over the -Gaullwyd Valley. ~The Torrent Walk~ is beautified by the rich greens and -browns lavished by Nature on the rocks by the foaming torrent of the -Clywedog. Three fine waterfalls are also to be found in the -neighbourhood, one the well-known Pistyll-y-Cain, while the ascent of -Cader from this town is a very desirable one. - -The road from Dolgelley to Dinas Mawddwy is an interesting one, both -by reason of the stiff climbs and also the fine views that accompany -it. The surface is generally inclined to be rough, and upon the -occasion of the writer's recent visit the portion leading down into -Dolgelley was appallingly bad. No doubt this state of things does not -exist now. At the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ the road turns sharply to the left -and mounts to ~Cold Door Pass~, situated upon a bleak moor, with a -splendid view of Cader Idris standing in grand isolation and beauty. -Many mountains suffer by the proximity of other heights, but Cader is -an exception. From the pass the road gradually descends through a -valley, increasing in beauty of verdure and foliage, to Dinas Mawddwy. - - -DINAS MAWDDWY - -This sequestered little town lies in a deep hollow formed by the -junction of two valleys, which discharge the streams they respectively -contain into the Dovey, occupying the main valley. The town consists -of one long street, with the grounds and house of Plas at the -termination. The church is chiefly known for its enormous yews, one in -particular being of really vast dimensions. Dinas Mawddwy is a centre -for anglers, sportsmen, and artists, and, during the season, for -excursionists. From the road a waterfall is a prominent feature. - -The road from Dinas Mawddwy follows the course of the Dovey, and lies -in a valley of singular beauty; although the mountains on either side -seldom approach 1,500 feet, yet they possess a beauty of form which -seems characteristic of the district, and are, as a rule, well wooded. - - -CEMMAES - -is a fairly large village lying off the main road, and nestling for -shelter under an outlying crag of the mountains to the west. Shortly -after, at Cemmaes Road, the route turns sharply to the left (by going -straight on one approaches Machynlleth), and looking backwards a fine -array of familiar peaks are seen up the broad valley just traversed. -The road to Caersws is at first very winding, with occasional sharp -dips; pleasant glimpses are obtained into well-wooded glens, where -tributaries of the river flow over their troubled course to join the -Afon Garno, or Carno, and before reaching Carno an extraordinary -stratification of the rocks is revealed, chiefly in the railway -cutting. A natural arch of anticlinal stratification occurs at -Talerddig, with every appearance of being built of masonry. At Carno -the valley becomes open and pastoral. - - -CAERSWS - -stands at the confluence of the River Carno and the Severn, and was a -place of considerable importance in the Roman period. Their influence -is still seen in the straight piece of road just traversed, and in -other sections still to be passed. In the centre of the village the -winter camp is seen, a rampart about 150 yards square, with the road -cutting across the centre. The vallum and accompanying fosse are at -some points well preserved. Several summer camps occupy the -surrounding heights, and many traces of the great Roman road going -east and west are to be discovered. At Moat Lane Junction, which lies -at a short distance to the left of the route, is a rectangular earthen -fort, with a moat adjacent surrounding a high mound, now covered with -firs. At ~Llandinam~ a statue to a certain David Davies stands -prominently by the roadside. The Severn Valley here is wide and open, -with many plantations of firs; the railway runs close beside the river -for miles. In the distance upon the right may be seen the rounded -summits of Plynlimmon, often dark and sombre against the sky. - - -LLANIDLOES - -This is a typical Welsh market town, extremely uninteresting and -remarkably dull, with the depressing style of architecture so -characteristic of the majority of houses in the Principality. -Externally dreary, too, are the places of worship, and one longs for a -board of architects and artists who will supervise new building plans -and save the land from further ugliness, so conspicuous where Nature -is so full of artistry. The town is devoted to the Welsh flannel -industry, and is well known to climbers as the jumping-off point for -the ascent of Plynlimmon, about ten miles to the west as the crow -flies. In the deeply furrowed shoulders of this mountain are the -birthplaces of two famous rivers, the Wye and the Severn. About two -miles north of the town are the Van Lead Mines, once so important; and -upon Van Hill, close to them, occurs a large hill-fort, of which so -many are scattered about this district. - -The Market-house is of wood, and decidedly quaint; the church -possesses a ceiling of carved oak, reputed to have been transported -from the suppressed Abbey of Cwm Hir, in Radnorshire; it stands near -the bridge, and is dedicated to St. Idloes. From this point a rather -pretty view is obtained of the Severn uniting with a tributary, the -Clywedog. - -The five miles between Llanidloes and Llangurig present occasionally -landscapes reminding one forcibly of English pastorals, if the -mountains can possibly be kept out of sight. The village of ~Llangurig~ -possesses a small church of no very great interest; perhaps the chief -fact connected with the place is that the village is the highest in -Wales, for it stands at an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet above the -level of the sea. - -(_For the road between Llangurig and Talgarth, see pp. 180-185._) - - - - -=LOOP= No. 5 - -=FIRST PORTION=: TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S--=SECOND PORTION=: ST. DAVID'S TO -HEREFORD - -TALGARTH TO CARDIGAN AND ST. DAVID'S, 1171/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Talgarth (Bronllys)= to Brecon 81/4 - =Brecon= to Llandovery 203/4 - =Llandovery= to Llanwrda 41/4 - =Llanwrda= to Pumpsaint 8 - =Pumpsaint= to Lampeter 81/4 - =Lampeter= to Newcastle 23 - =Newcastle= to Cardigan 101/2 - =Cardigan= to Newport 12 - =Newport= to Fishguard 63/4 - =Fishguard= to St. David's 151/2 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -To =Brecon= good road, and thence to =Llandovery= splendid. - -=Llandovery to Lampeter.=--Very good; to =Cardigan=, steep hills at -times. - -=Cardigan to Fishguard.=--A succession of steep hills, mostly 1 in 11 -or 12; at =Fishguard= descent and ascent of 1 in 7, dangerous turns; -dangerous hairpin turn on the hill into =Nevern=. - -=Fishguard to St. David's.=--Undulating, but good. - - -=PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE= - -=Brecon.=--Very pleasant town; the Priory Church, a massive structure, -chiefly Early English and Decorated; fragments of town walls. - -=Llandovery.=--A small and not unpicturesque town; ruins of the -castle. - -=Llanwrda.=--A pretty village in fine mountain scenery. - -=Lampeter.=--A small town famous as a fishing centre. The college is -the chief building. - -=Newcastle Emlyn.=--Small town with beautiful ruins of the castle. - -=Cardigan.=--A considerable town; the bridge over the Teifi; the -remains of the castle; church not interesting. Within three miles -are--(1) St. Dogmael's Priory ruins; (2) the beautifully-situated -Kilgerran Castle. - -=Nevern.=--Castle ruins; a very interesting church with early -inscribed crosses. - -=Newport.=--A small fishing town; the castle. - -=Fishguard.=--Goodwick Sands; the harbour; the Pen Caer Peninsula; -fine coast scenery. - -=St. David's.=--A small scattered place, scarcely more than a village; -beautiful cathedral; picturesque ruins of the palace. Grand -coast-line, deeply indented. - - - [Map: LOOP 5 (FIRST PORTION). TALGARTH TO LLANDILO.] - - [Map: LOOP 5. TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S AND HAVERFORDWEST.] - -The road from Talgarth to Brecon presents no special features except -those of picturesque hill and dale, with various streams crossing the -road at intervals. - - -BRECON - -Brecon, the county town of Brecknockshire, lies upon the River Usk, -and was formerly defended by walls and gates. Of the castle, -destroyed as usual during the Civil War, only a few fragments near -the Castle Hotel have survived, and one restored section facing the -river. - -~St. Mary's Church~ has suffered so much from bad restoration that -practically nothing of archaeological interest remains in it. - -~The Priory Church.~--This building is only excelled in Wales by the -Cathedrals of St. David's and Llandaff. It is a massive cruciform -structure, with a central tower, high roof and gables, and an -external aspect almost devoid of ornamentation. The eastern portions -are of Early English work, and the nave was gradually transformed -during the fourteenth century into a Decorated building, with great -octagonal piers, broad arches, and a lofty clerestory. The carved -Norman font should be noticed, and also a number of effigies, one -dating from 1359. An interesting feature are the chapels on either -side of the presbytery, called respectively the Chapel of the Normans -and the Chapel of the Men of Battle, the priory being a cell of Battle -Abbey. The guilds of the town had chapels in the nave, those of the -tailors, weavers, tuckers, and courvisors, or shoemakers, being at the -west end. The domestic buildings still remain, and are attached to the -southern side of the west end of the nave; the building has been -restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. The town is a pleasant one by reason of -the many public walks in and about it, and fine views may be obtained -of the well-known Beacons, some of them approaching 3,000 feet in -height. - - * * * * * - -The district round Brecon abounds in prehistoric camps and various -remains of the British, Roman, and Saxon occupations. On the road to -Llandovery, for instance, near Llanspyddyd, there is a Roman fort, -and another of unknown origin adjoining, with a Roman road passing -round them. Senny Bridge merely consists of a long street of -uninteresting houses. At ~Trecastle~ there is an important mound, at one -time crowned with a fortalice. From the centre of this village there -is a steep ascent. The River Usk accompanies the road, and appears -under various surroundings--now as a placid stream winding through -meadowlands, and again as a foaming torrent in a deep, tree-shaded -glen. This road through the outliers of the Beacons abounds in -picturesque views of a well-wooded country, backed by the great -swarthy slopes of the hills, called the Black Mountains, although the -dark brown sandstone of which they are composed is the same colour as -the brown heath upon them. - - -LLANDOVERY - -Llandovery consists chiefly of two streets, which converge at the -market-place, and a welcome change is the red wash with which many of -the houses are covered, as a relief from the ubiquitous whitewash of -the rest of Wales. - -~The Castle.~--This has nearly disappeared, and only two dismantled -circular towers, with a curtain wall between, remain. They may be -found standing on a grassy knoll near the Castle Hotel. The River Bran -is fairly wide at this point, and passes under a fine bridge. - -Upon leaving Llandovery a level crossing has to be negotiated; the -road crosses the River Towy, and then turns sharply to the left. - -~Llanwrda~ is a pretty village situated amid lovely pastoral scenery, -and with a fine prospect over the valley. The road here turns at right -angles towards the north, and between this point and the Hafod Bridge -Inn, nearly four miles, the scenery is distinctly and strikingly -beautiful. The small stream, the Dulais, accompanies the route, -passing and repassing under the road. Near Pumpsaint lies a gold-mine, -the Ogofan, and here the River Cothi, beloved of piscators, comes down -from the mountains on its way to the Towy. Between Pumpsaint and -Lampeter high ground is crossed, and a portion of the Sarn Helen Roman -road appears near an inn beyond Pont-ar-Twch. Near Lampeter a village -occurs bearing the ominous name of Rain. - - -LAMPETER - -is one of the best-known fishing centres in Wales, the River Teifi -affording exceedingly good sport. It is a well-built town, situated -in a fertile valley. The bridge over the stream is said to have been -erected in the time of King Stephen, from which the town claims the -name of Lampeter Pont Stephen. The chief building is St. David's -College, theological, designed for those who cannot afford Oxford or -Cambridge. To gain the road for Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan the river -at Lampeter must be recrossed, and the turning taken to the right at -'Gwar Gate' Inn. The route gives a striking view over the valley of -the Teifi, whose extraordinary meanderings and loopings appear as a -huge serpent of silver lying in the broad landscape. The road for a -considerable distance is of Roman construction--the Sarn Helen, but -even those conquerors of the world could not conquer Nature in Wales -and make their roads straight. - -~Llanbyther~ is a small and prettily-situated village, with one of the -numerous 'Pen-y-Gaer' camps lying close to the road. The New Quay Road -Station of Llanfihangel-ar-Arth turns off to the right soon after the -Aber-Iar Inn; it is of a second-class character, but saves a -considerable distance and some hills on the way to Llandyssil. - -~Llandyssil~ is a romantically-situated village upon the banks of the -Teifi, which here assume a rocky character. Its church is dedicated to -St. Tyssul, who lived in the early part of the sixth century. From -Llandyssil the road south of the river should be taken to Newcastle -Emlyn; it has many awkward turns. - - -NEWCASTLE EMLYN - -is a well-situated town with a long street running at right angles to -the coach-road. - -~The Castle~ is a beautifully-placed ruin, with grand views over the -surrounding country. The position of the fortress for natural defence -is most remarkable, for the Teifi here forms a reversed S, and in one -of the loops so made the ruins are situated, the moat thus naturally -formed being one of the most remarkable in existence. The most ancient -building upon the site is reputed to have had a Roman origin; the -second was erected by Sir Rhys ap Thomas (who built Dynevor Castle) in -the time of Henry VII., who frequently resided here, and from it the -town was termed 'New-castle.' The Royalists held it throughout the -Civil War, but after that period it appears to have lapsed into ruin. -Two octagonal towers supporting an arch give entrance to the ruins. - -Three miles out from Newcastle Emlyn is ~Cenarth~, a most picturesque -and pleasantly-situated little village upon the border between -Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire. There is a fine salmon-leap close -to the hamlet which is worth seeing. The road thence to Cardigan -traverses a plain, becoming more and more open as the town is -approached, presenting a broad sweep of smiling woods and pasture. - - -CARDIGAN - -The chief centre of interest in Cardigan is undoubtedly the bridge -over the Teifi. It probably dates from the Early English Period, and -has been widened. From this point there is a good view up and down the -river, with the castle and church as prominent features. - -~The Castle.~--The small portion hidden away in the ivy at the present -time affords no clue to the former size and importance of this -stronghold. It was founded in the time of Henry II. by the Prince of -South Wales, and after a chequered career was dismantled at the -Commonwealth. The keep is now occupied by private houses. - -~The Church~ (_key obtained at one of the cottages in the road_).--The -tower is a fine one, but so far as the whole interior is concerned it -must be confessed that all ecclesiological features of interest have -been obliterated by paint, plaster, and incongruous additions. The -chancel arch, of the Perpendicular period, has a fearful and wonderful -'skew,' which may or may not have been acquired by age. - -The town contains a number of old houses, nooks, and byways, but they -are only moderately interesting to the artist, who finds his best -subjects by the bridge and along the river, where sailing-boats and -small steamers reveal the picturesque qualities generally to be found -in small ports. One feature of the town soon attracts attention--namely, -the strong reluctance of the majority of chimneys in Cardigan to keep -to the perpendicular. - -~St. Dogmael's Priory~, less than two miles from Cardigan, lies upon the -left of the estuary. The remains are of the Early English period, and -are still considerable. Martin de Tours, who came over with the -Conqueror (not St. Martin), was the founder. - -~Kilgerran Castle~, three miles south of the town, and easily reached by -road, stands upon a vast bare rock uplifted above the foaming, eddying -stream rushing round its base, through a narrow channel in the rocks. -Many eulogistic statements have been made concerning this -beauty-spot, but none have overpraised it. The ruins consist of two -towers, with part of a gateway and curtain wall, together with -fragments of massive bastions. It was erected about 1223, when -Marshall, Earl of Chepstow, subdued the Welsh in these districts. - - * * * * * - -~On leaving for Newport~, the long rise of the road affords, in about -two miles, a remarkably fine view towards the left. With Mynydd -Prescelly for a background, the composition of the foreground and -middle distance by a beautiful vale is singularly impressive, and this -view, with panoramic changes, accompanies the road to Nevern. - -The hills seen in the front have massive rocky crags penetrating their -otherwise smooth outline. - -~Nevern.~--A very dangerous turn in the road ushers the traveller into -this beautiful little village, embowered in the midst of rich meadows, -orchards, and gardens in a situation which is eminently picturesque -and pleasing. The River Nevern flows through the village, and an -amphitheatre of well-wooded hills encloses it. - -~The Castle~ consists of some slight remains of a Norman building, -apparently of a square plan, with bastions at the angles. - -~The Church~ is one of the largest in the county, and of very great -interest. It is of Early English architecture, with a Perpendicular -recess forming a chapel upon the south side. In the window-sill of the -south window of this chapel is inserted a long granite stone, with an -Ogham inscription upon it, together with a slab bearing an excellent -example of an early interlaced cross. The church stands in a quite -ideal sloping churchyard, containing a stone cross about 13 feet in -height, with Celtic ornamentation and two inscriptions, not yet -satisfactorily deciphered, as far as the writer is aware. Near the -south porch is a menhir with an inscription. - -~The Pentre Evan~ cromlech, one of the finest known, lies about three -miles from Nevern by road, but less than two as the crow flies. A car -may be taken by a third-class road for the greater part of the -distance, but a local guide is necessary. - - -NEWPORT - -Newport is a small fishing town, and also a seaport, upon the estuary -of the Nevern. It is a quiet watering-place, the sea-bathing being -very good, while the surrounding country is of enticing interest. - -~The Castle~ was built in 1215, and used by the lords of Cemmaes for -their courts. It was destroyed by Llewelyn, but restored recently by a -descendant of the first baron, but in such strong contrast to the -original Norman architecture that it is very disappointing externally. - -~The Church~ has been built near the castle, and partakes somewhat of -its character, being stern and massive in its proportions. The -interior contains nothing of particular interest. - -A small cromlech lies within a few hundred yards of the centre of the -town, to which any inhabitant will direct one. Occasional glimpses of -the estuary, with its sands gleaming in the sun, are obtained from the -main streets of the town. - -The road between Newport and Fishguard reveals a wide view of the -Prescelly Mountains, the highest in Pembrokeshire, and a favourite -climb for visitors. A most attractive view of Goodwick Harbour, now -generally known as Fishguard, is obtained from the road, or, better -still, from one of the steep meadows on either hand. The great -importance of this harbour in connection with the Atlantic mail and -passenger service has suddenly brought a remote district into -prominence. It is now a familiar sight for the natives to see a huge -liner in this natural harbour take on passengers and cargo, while a -few years ago the waters of the deep inlet had never been churned by -propellers. - -The descent into Fishguard of 1 in 7 must be taken with extreme -caution; at the foot of the curving descent a bridge crosses the Afon -Gwaen, and from this the road climbs with equal suddenness and at an -equally trying angle. It is a hill calculated to test to the last -fraction of its horsepower the capacity a car possesses in -hill-climbing. At the top of the ascent the whole bay is spread out in -panoramic fashion, and one can see the new breakwater, still -incomplete, protecting the anchorage. - -The road from Fishguard to St. David's passes first across the isthmus -of the Pen Caer Peninsula, whose northern part terminates in Strumble -Head. This district is the happy hunting-ground for the archaeologist, -as it literally teems with prehistoric remains--castles, camps, stone -circles, cromlechs, and menhirs, are encountered almost at every step. -Two miles out of Fishguard the turning to the right should be taken at -a puzzling junction of roads. At Mathry some cromlechs occur near the -road, and two miles farther on a wayside cross may be seen. The hills -in this neighbourhood generally have the formation noticed previously -at Cardigan--namely the projection of high tors from their summits, -breaking through otherwise smooth elevations. Nearing St. David's Head -it is obvious that the face of the landscape is gradually changing: -the hedgerows become less in height, and are often mere mounds of turf -or stone; the few trees met with are dwarfed and attenuated, and -invariably lean away from the south-west. As St. David's comes nearer -these characteristics become accentuated, and a barren, wind-swept -moorland appears, almost unrelieved by a single tree. - - -[Map: PLAN OF ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL.] - -ST. DAVID'S - -The modern town of St. David's has a sad and desolate air, arising -from the number of abandoned houses to be seen on every hand. - -~The Cathedral~ (_nave open free on weekdays, 9 to 1 and 2 to 6; a -charge of 6d. is made for admission to the eastern chapels_) is in a -remarkable situation at the farther end of the town, and practically -bursts upon the view when the edge of the deep hollow it occupies is -reached. In such an exposed corner of Britain it is not surprising -that everything should take what shelter it can find, but to walk -through a rather dreary and wind-swept Welsh village, and to -_discover_ a magnificent cathedral cowering almost out of sight at -one's very feet, is not an everyday occurrence even with the touring -motorist. A score of abbeys planted in sequestered valleys will come -to the mind of anyone who has explored this island, but a -well-preserved cathedral built in a deep and narrow hollow in a rocky -promontory almost takes away what little breath the blustering wind -has left to the exploring stranger. To the left is the old tower -gateway, a weather-worn remnant of the embattled fortifications which -once encircled the monastery. Down below, and approached by a long and -steep flight of stone steps, stands the church, with the square tower -of rather unsatisfactory outline dominating the nave, transept, and -eastern portions of the buildings. Beyond appears one of the most -beautiful ruins that ever gladdened the eye--the remains of one of the -finest episcopal palaces to be seen in the British Isles. Near the -church are also grouped ruins of the conventual buildings, and the -whole forms a scene that indelibly impresses itself upon the memory. -Descending the thirty-nine steps, one reaches the south porch of the -nave. Whatever preconceived ideas one may hold of the beauty of this -part of the church, the sight of the original far surpasses them. The -beautiful Norman pillars and graceful arches, ornamented with the most -elaborate chevron and zigzag mouldings of the Transitional period; the -clerestory springing directly from the dwarfed triforium with which it -is incorporated; and the whole surmounted by a finely-wrought timber -roof, make a picture of the rarest perfection. The colouring is full -of subtle richness, the stonework being of a soft dove-grey combined -with a bluish tinge. The building dates from 1180, the previous church -having been burnt down by pirates. The tower fell in 1220, and was -rebuilt at different periods. The choir and transepts are Early -English, but were added to in the Decorated period. The eastern -chapels are Decorated, as is also the beautiful rood-screen. The -ceiling in the nave dates from _c._ 1500. Many objects of interest are -contained in the building; the shrines of St. David and St. Caradoc, -the tomb of Edmund Tudor, father of Henry VII., the monument of Bishop -Gower, the chapel of St. Thomas a Becket, and the fan tracery of the -roof in Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, are all worthy of careful inspection. -Outside the north wall of the nave gigantic and ill-proportioned -buttresses are seen, built in 1248 to strengthen the nave, which had -suffered from an earthquake; on the opposite side are the remains of -the cloisters of St. Mary's College, begun in 1362. - -The exploration of the ruins of the Bishop's Palace should on no -account be omitted, as the lower chambers, the row of clerestory -arches, the beautiful doorways, and the general composition of the -whole ruin, are worthy of the closest attention. - -Upon the return to the main street the ancient cross is seen, no less -than 28 feet in height; the steps were restored by Bishop Thirlwall in -1873. - -The coast scenery at St. David's is remarkably wild, and the subjects -for the painter in oils or water-colours, or for the less ambitious -who carry a sketch-book and a good soft pencil, are full of particular -attractiveness. To those who are without the desire or capacity to -carry away any permanent impressions of the scenery it will be enough -to lie in a sheltered spot and watch the white waves burst into -columns of spray on the northern end of Ramsey Island. - - - - -LOOP No. 5--SECOND PORTION - -ST. DAVIDS TO HEREFORD, 1321/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =St. David's= to Haverfordwest 153/4 - =Haverfordwest= to Narberth 101/4 - =Narberth= to Red Roses 7 - =Red Roses= to Carmarthen 143/4 - =Carmarthen= to Pontacothi 61/4 - =Pontacothi= to Llandilo 83/4 - =Llandilo= to Llangadock 63/4 - =Llangadock= to Llandovery 51/2 - =Llandovery= to Trecastle 9 - =Trecastle= to Devynock 31/4 - =Devynock= to Brecon 83/4 - =Brecon= to Talgarth (Bronllys) 81/4 - =Bronllys= to Three Cocks Inn 21/2 - =Three Cocks Inn= to Hay 43/4 - =Hay= to Clifford 21/2 - =Clifford= to Hereford 181/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=St. David's to Haverfordwest.=--This road has a fine surface, but -hills are frequent and all dangerous. They range from 1 in 8 to 1 in -12. - -=Haverfordwest to Carmarthen.=--This also has a good surface, but the -hills are numerous. Near Narberth is a hill 1 in 9. - -=Carmarthen to Brecon.=--Splendid surface and easy gradients. - -=Brecon to Hereford.=--An excellent road without dangerous hills. - -=Hay.=--A toll of 9d. must be paid for crossing the river. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Solva.=--A village in pretty scenery. - -=Pointz Castle.=--An earthwork. - -=Roche Castle.=--Very conspicuous. - -=Haverfordwest.=--A pleasant town; the castle, now a gaol; St. Mary's -Church, with ancient wooden carving; the Priory Ruins. - -=Narberth.=--A little town with ruins of its castle. - -=St. Clears.=--A small port. - -=Carmarthen.=--A busy county town; the castle, now the gaol; the -Guildhall; the church; Picton Monument; interesting market. - -=Llandilo.=--Small town on high ground; Dynevor Castle; Careg Cennen -Castle. - -=Llandilo to Talgarth.=--See Loop 6, Part I. - -=Hay.=--A little town on English border; the castle, an interesting -structure (not open). - -=Clifford Castle=, birthplace of Fair Rosamond. - -=Whitney.=--Beautiful scenery on the Wye; old timbered houses. - -=Hereford.=--The cathedral, Norman to Perpendicular; the Shire Hall; -the castle green; interesting old houses. - - - [Map: LOOP 5 (EASTERN END). TALGARTH TO HEREFORD.] - -The distance from St. David's to Haverfordwest is sixteen miles, or, -as the natives naively express it, 'sixteen miles and seventeen -hills.' For the switchback contour, however, one is compensated by -the wide views generally obtained when the tops of the hills are -reached, before plunging downwards into the next sudden hollow. The -same characteristics of wild moorland and storm-swept down prevail as -noticed upon the road to St. David's, and it is very interesting to -note how gradually the vegetation develops as the route progresses. -About two miles out the little village of ~Solva~ is passed, lying upon -a romantic inlet in this iron-bound coast, and recalling, to some -extent, the fishing village of Staithes, in Yorkshire. The view over -St. Bride's Bay, with Skomer Island as the farthest point, is -exceedingly fine on a crisp, sunny morning, and shortly after leaving -Solva, Pointz Castle, an earthwork, appears upon the right hand, at a -short distance from the road. The sharp descent to ~Newgate~ brings one -almost within reach of the salt spray at high tide, and the road runs -for a few hundred yards by the sands of that name, giving a glimpse of -some fine coast scenery. There is an example here of a 'rolling -beach,' an accumulation of pebbles being washed over and over upon the -flat land beyond. The road now climbs to the uplands, upon which -stands ~Roche Castle~, a conspicuous landmark for many miles. It was -built in the reign of Henry III., but has later windows inserted. -Garrisoned for the King during the time of the Civil War, it was -captured by the Parliamentarians, but subsequently retaken. Lord St. -Davids, the present owner, has adapted it for modern habitation. Its -position upon a rocky scar, in the midst of a treeless plain, is -peculiarly imposing. - -As the road approaches Haverfordwest trees of respectable proportions -begin to appear, no longer leaning towards the north-east. - - -HAVERFORDWEST - -The town of Haverfordwest occupies an important position among those -of South Wales, and is the centre of commerce for a large district. -The streets are narrow and steep, with sharp turnings, probably caused -by the confinement of the ancient fortifications which once protected -the town. Of these practically nothing remains but the shell of a -strong castle, now converted into the county gaol, standing upon a -rocky eminence overlooking the town. Although very impressive when -viewed from a distance or from the River Cleddau in the town, it -hardly repays minute inspection. Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, -is said to have built it about 1120, and it became, with that of -Pembroke, one of the most important fortresses in 'Little England,' as -the southern part of Pembroke was termed. It was demolished by order -of Oliver Cromwell. - -~St. Mary's Church~ is of great interest, the exterior showing some -fantastic gargoyles, and the nave some fine clustered columns of Early -English work, with a Perpendicular clerestory above. The ceilings -should be noticed, and also the early lancets at the west end. It is a -beautiful church, full of light, with no gloomy corners. There is an -ancient wooden carving of St. Michael the Archangel and the Dragon, -dating from the fifteenth century. - -~The Priory Ruins~ are situated a short distance from the southern part -of the town, and are quite picturesque. They are the remains of a -priory of Austin Canons erected in the twelfth century. The very -liberal grants of Robert de Hwlffordd, lord of this town, were -confirmed by Edward III. The remains of the minster are of Early -English work. - -The road from Haverfordwest takes a sharp turn to the right upon -leaving the town, and passes over the railway-lines. An isolated -church stands upon a hill to the right, and soon afterwards the woods -surrounding ~Picton Castle~, two miles away, come into view. It is one -of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having been built by a -De Picton in the reign of Rufus. From that time it has been inhabited -by an unbroken line of proprietors, never deserted, never vacant. The -alterations have not very much affected the baronial style of the -building, and until quite recently it presented the appearance of a -medieval fortress. - -At Canaston Bridge the road crosses the eastern Cleddau, which -discharges into Milford Haven, and here, upon the left, at about a -mile, lies the picturesque ruin of ~Llawhaden Castle~, once a residence -of the Bishops of St. David's. The gateway, flanked by two -demi-bastions, forms a very effective picture. - -Approaching Narberth, the right-hand road should be taken at Robeston -Wathen. Fir-trees near this point begin to make their appearance, -having been conspicuously absent from St. David's to this point. - - -NARBERTH - -There is a very steep hill in this town, leading to the ruins of a -Norman castle crowning the summit. They are picturesquely covered with -ivy, but the remains now apparent are small when compared with those -visible in the eighteenth century. The roads in the neighbourhood of -Narberth are rather misleading, as so many by-roads enter. Care should -be taken to decipher the sign-boards in many cases before proceeding. -Between Narberth and St. Clears, for instance, there are three roads -at Tavernspite near an inn, and the centre one should be taken. - -~St. Clears~ is a long and straggling village at the head of an estuary -of the Taff, and vessels of small tonnage can reach it at high tide. -It formerly possessed a castle and a priory, but both have -disappeared. The town itself is uninteresting. Between St. Clears and -Carmarthen the small hamlet of Banc-y-Felin is particularly pleasing, -with a tributary of the Taff flowing through it. - - -CARMARTHEN - -Carmarthen, the capital of the shire, stands upon the site of the -Roman _Maridunum_, and is the point of convergence of two roads, Via -Maritima and Via Montana. Some parts of the town stand at a -considerable elevation, and present an imposing picture from a -distance. It is an excellent example of an old Welsh town, retaining a -great deal of its primeval quaintness. Upon market-days, when it -swarms with people from the surrounding districts, one seldom hears a -word of English spoken, and the busy scenes witnessed in the bustling -market are mainly transacted in the mother-tongue. Upon entering the -town the Picton Monument is seen, raised in honour of the Peninsula -hero, who fell at Waterloo. - -~The Church of St. Peter~ is a large building chiefly in the -Perpendicular style, with a lofty square tower. The interior has been -very carefully plastered so as to hide everything of interest. A Roman -altar, however, may be seen below the tower. - -Sir Richard Steele, who died in 1729, the friend of Addison, and the -well-known man of letters, lies buried in this church. In his old age -he came to reside at Llangunnor, near Carmarthen. - -~The Castle~, which at one time made Carmarthen a place of strength, was -demolished by the Parliamentarians, and the small portion remaining -has been converted into the county gaol. On leaving Carmarthen the -route towards Llandilo lies upon the Roman road, the Via Montana. It -includes some of the finest scenery in South Wales. There are two -roads running in the valley, with the railway separating them; the -north one is the more picturesque. - -At a loop in the road about ten miles out, Middleton Hall, lying due -south, and erected by Sir William Paxton, may be recognized by the -tall tower which forms such a conspicuous landmark. It is known as -~Paxton's Tower~, but was raised by him in memory of Nelson. Almost -directly afterwards, ~Dryslwyn Castle~ comes in sight, a most -picturesque ruin, consisting of one tower and many fragments of walls. -It was besieged in the time of Edward I., when Lord Stafford and other -leaders lost their lives, in undermining the fortress, by the sudden -collapse of the walls beneath which they were operating. - -On Grongar Hill, a few hundred yards away to the right, the poet Dyer -composed his poem 'Grongar Hill.' The view from the summit is -charming. On the farther side of the valley can be seen Golden Grove, -the residence of Viscount Emlyn. ~Dynevor Park and Castle~ come into -view upon the right front on reaching the neighbourhood of Llandilo. -The ruins stand upon a lofty mound a short distance from the road, in -the most attractive portion of the park. The first castle was built in -877, and almost rebuilt in the time of William the Conqueror. For -some centuries it was the residence of the Princes of South Wales. -Henry VII. granted it to Sir Rhys ap Thomas, a descendant of the -Princes, and ancestor of the present owner, Lord Dynevor. It was -occupied until 1760. The remains consist of a round keep and a square -tower, commanding a magnificent prospect. (_The ruins are open for -inspection to the bona-fide visitor upon application._) - - -LLANDILO - -Llandilo is a small town perched upon two or three steep hills to the -north of the River Towy, crossed here by a stone bridge of one span. -The streets are narrow, with the public buildings grouped together in -the centre of the town. The church was thoroughly rebuilt in 1848, and -everything of interest then disappeared. If a stay can be arranged at -Llandilo, one of the most remarkable edifices in the kingdom, ~Careg -Cennen~, should be seen. It is a castle almost without a history, -standing upon a rocky height with inaccessible precipices on three -sides, the foremost one over 300 feet in height. Two square towers -guard the sloping ground upon the fourth side, and the main portion of -the castle occupies the summits of the precipices. The situation is -superb and the scenery delightful. The spirit of romance is free from -any of the handicaps usually suffered by the historian, for in this -castle among the clouds, in connection with which history is silent -(except a reputed origin in the thirteenth century at the hands of -Rhys of Wales), the wings of imagination may soar to any height. This -is a site awaiting the novelist in search of a romantic setting for a -story of the Middle Ages. It stands about five miles to the south-east -of Llandilo, overlooking the Vale of the Towy. - -Between Llandilo and Llanwrda a large Roman camp can be seen lying -upon Carn Goch, and at the inn where the road turns to Llangadock a -large tributary joins the Towy. In a few miles Llanwrda is reached, -and the loop for St. David's is thus completed. For the road between -Llanwrda and Talgarth, see pp. 143-148. - -The route from Talgarth to Hay is winding, and care should be taken to -avoid the numerous roads leading away from the main road, which lies -on the south side of the River Wye, and for a considerable distance is -parallel to the railway. - -~Glasbury~, beyond the Three Cocks, is a small village much frequented -by the fishing fraternity; a fine prospect of the Black Mountains is -obtained, and the views generally are among the best to be found in -the district. - -The entry into Hay is very pretty, with shady hedgerows and many of -the attributes of English scenery. - - -HAY - -This little town lies upon the borders of England and Wales, at the -junction of the shires of Radnor, Hereford, and Brecon. The word 'Hay' -is allied to 'hedge,' meaning a boundary. It was at one time the main -entry into Wales from England, and naturally, from its position, it -has seen stirring times in the past. - -~The Castle~ dominates the town, and is easily reached from the main -street; the entrance is at the back. The architecture now appears to -be a mixture of all kinds, including Tudor, for numerous additions -have been made. A residence constructed out of the old materials -occupies part of the site. Sir Philip Walwyn is supposed to have built -the first castle in 1090, and at the end of the twelfth century -extensive additions were made. Henry III. almost rebuilt it, and in -1233 Llewelyn ap Jorweth stormed it. Thirty years later it was taken -twice, and in the time of Glendower it was burnt. Many other minor -happenings have occurred to lend variety to its existence. James I. -made large additions to the building. The fortifying walls once -enclosing the town have nearly disappeared. The road upon the town -side traverses the former moat. A view across the river gives a -glimpse of a Roman camp near the stream, while to the north-west -stands Clyro, reached by a main road, and enclosed by beautiful woods. -A mound of earth and a moat are now the sole remains of the proud and -lordly Clyro Castle mentioned by Leland. - -The ruins of Cusop Castle and Mouse Castle lie at a short distance -from the town, and a favourite excursion is that to the far-famed -~Llanthony~ ~Abbey~, lying amid romantic wilds some ten miles to the -south. - -The route to Whitney crosses the river at Hay, passes through Clyro, -and in two miles affords a view of ~Clifford Castle~, standing upon a -bold eminence by the side of the river; it was the birthplace of Jane -de Clifford, the Fair Rosamond of Henry II., and the former residence -of the Lords de Clifford. The scenery in the environment of these -beautiful ruins is most charming. The route from Hay may be taken in -this direction if desired. (_A toll of 9d. has to be paid to cross the -river._) - - -WHITNEY - -The village of Whitney is surrounded by a rich belt of pasture-land -interspersed with clumps of trees, and exceedingly beautiful scenery -is to be found upon the river-banks. There is no ancient church, for -it was washed away in a flood in the early part of the eighteenth -century. The beautiful views seen at Whitney unfold themselves more -and more as one reaches Letton, Merbach Hill upon the right, rising -high out of the ground like a hog's back, giving a characteristic -touch to the scenery. At Letton a particularly beautiful group of -black-and-white timbered cottages stand by the side of the road, and -remind one that English soil has been reached, and that the -never-ending monotony of the Welsh whitewashed cottages has at last -been left behind. At ~Staunton~, on the Wye, a little Early English -church is perched above the village. On the right there formerly stood -a castle, and near it is Moccas Park, the residence of Royalty in -Saxon times. The present owners are descended from Richard, the second -son of King John. After passing Byford a portion of ~Offa's Dyke~ occurs -upon the left, crossing over Mansell Hill. Some quaintly-cut yew-trees -may be seen near the Kite's Nest Inn, and just before entering -Hereford, at White Cross, an interesting cross is noticeable. It was -put up in 1347 by Bishop Charlton to commemorate the disappearance of -the Black Plague, and was restored by Archdeacon Lord Saye and Sele. - - [Illustration: HEREFORD CATHEDRAL FROM THE BANKS OF THE WYE. - It belongs mainly to the Early English period, and is built of a - reddish stone.] - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 7--HEREFORD.] - -HEREFORD - -is a pleasantly-situated town, but if it were not for the possession -of a cathedral the place would not offer any particular attractions -for visitors beyond the charming river scenery common to the Wye -Valley. - -Hereford became a separate see in 673, and Putta was the first -Bishop. The first church was rebuilt in a better fashion when the -remains of the murdered Ethelbert were brought to Hereford, but this -pre-Norman structure was burnt by the Welsh in 1055. In 1079 Robert of -Lorraine, the first Norman Bishop, began the cathedral of which much -exists at the present day, using dark red sandstone. The choir up to -the clerestory, the arcades of the nave, and the south transept, are -Norman work of this early date. - -The beautiful Lady Chapel, and the clerestory of the choir are Early -English. The north and both the eastern transepts, part of tower, and -the chapter-house, are Decorated. The chantries, sacristy, and a few -other parts, are Perpendicular. The western tower fell in 1786, and -brought down with it the west front and the first bay of the nave. -This disaster accounts for the modern west front. Upon entering the -nave the Norman bays are singularly impressive, especially the carved -capitals. The choir is entered through a metal chancel screen; the -stalls are richly carved, and 'the chair of King Stephen' is preserved -in it. Scattered about in the great building there are probably more -monumental tombs and effigies than in any other cathedral, and this is -especially true with regard to ecclesiastics. Two notable monuments -are those of Bishop Aquablanca (1245-1268), and the shrine of St. -Thomas of Cantilupe in the north transept. A famous archaeological -treasure, the _Mappa Mundi_, a map of the world, drawn on one large -sheet of parchment in the thirteenth century by Richard de -Haldingham, is preserved in this building, and may be seen upon -application. The Bishop's Palace is close to the Wye, on the south -side of the cathedral. - -~The Shire Hall~, a Grecian Doric building, standing in St. Peter's -Square, was erected in the early part of the last century. - -~The Castle Green~ is the site of the vanished Castle of Hereford; it is -one of the prettiest parts of the town. Hereford contains some -interesting houses, and three of them, now used as a bank, may be seen -in the High Town. It was at one time the Butchers' Guildhall, and the -carving upon the outside, as well as the inside, is extremely ornate. - - - - -SECTION VIII (TRUNK ROUTE) - -LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY, 68 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Llangurig= to Rhayader 91/4 - =Rhayader= to Newbridge-on-Wye 8 - =Newbridge-on-Wye= to Builth 51/2 - =Builth= to Hay 19 - =Hay= to Bronllys 71/4 - =Bronllys= to Talgarth 1 - =Talgarth= to Castle Inn 31/2 - =Castle Inn= to Crickhowell 81/4 - =Crickhowell= to Abergavenny 61/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -The road is splendidly engineered, and as a rule has an excellent -surface. There are no really stiff gradients. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Rhayader.=--A small and uninteresting town; Birmingham reservoirs. - -=Builth.=--Another small town, possessing no interest besides the site -of the castle and the wells. - -=Talgarth= (1 mile distant).--Remains of Bronllys Castle; Llangorse -Pool. - -=Crickhowell.=--The church; the castle ruins. - -=Abergavenny.=--A market town; castle, now a recreation-ground; -church, with fine carved oak; earliest wooden effigy; the Blorenge. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 8. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY.] - -The road to Rhayader traverses part of the Upper Wye Valley, and gives -frequent glimpses of troubled, foam-flecked water, alternating with -long reaches where the river slides smoothly along its rocky bed. The -setting is one of pastoral scenery, bounded by the rounded uplands, -which help to form the catchment basin for the great lakes which now -supply Birmingham with water. This gigantic undertaking, to be -extended altogether over fifty years, will eventually be the means of -constructing a chain of lakes in the vale of the Elan, effectually -providing for the future needs of the great manufacturing metropolis -so far as water is concerned. - - -RHAYADER - -The chief attraction at Rhayader is the scenery, as nothing of -particular importance meets the eye in the town. It is a good -sketching-ground for artists, many excellent subjects being -discoverable in the surrounding country. To the angler it is a -paradise. Although it possesses two churches, they are not worthy of -the time required for inspecting them. The ~Wye~ here is an impetuous -mountain stream, plunging amid the rocks strewn along its course; to -this point the salmon reach the upper waters at the spawning season. -Between Rhayader and Builth there are several very sharp turnings in -the road, requiring considerable care if risks are to be avoided. The -~Wye~ is close to the road at many parts of its course, and forms the -boundary between the counties of Brecon and Radnor. Farther on the -stream begins to lose its torrential character, and, traversing this -well-wooded valley, assumes more of the calm and placid character with -which one generally associates it. It receives the superfluous water -from the great lakes of the Birmingham Corporation Reservoirs by the -Afon Elan soon after passing Rhayader. To the west of Newbridge-on-Wye, -Lysdinam Hall, the ancestral home of the Venables, is seen upon an -eminence. - - -BUILTH WELLS - -This ancient town, the _Bullaeum_ of the Romans, is the centre of trade -for the neighbouring districts, and derives much importance from its -wells--saline, sulphurous, and chalybeate. The population is less -than 2,000, but probably a regiment might be raised locally all -bearing the surname of Price or Powell. - -~The Castle~, or rather the site of it, is near the town, close to the -Wye Bridge. It possesses a double fosse, a rampart of earth, and a -keep, which, judging from the foundation, must have been of great -size. It was besieged and captured by Llewelyn in 1260. - -The scene of Llewelyn's death in 1282 lies near the Radnor road at -Cefn-y-Bedd, a few miles from the town. The Prince was refused a -refuge in Builth (hence 'The Traitors of Builth'), and, reversing his -horse's shoes, fled in the deep snow for safety, but was overtaken and -slain. - -The church of Builth is a modern erection, and the town is -uninteresting. - -The road from Builth to Talgarth passes through Erwood, at some five -miles' distance, and Garth Hill, crowned by an earthwork, lies to the -left; it is also the place where the English troops in quest of -Llewelyn forded the river in 1282. Two miles away to the left are the -celebrated Falls of Craig-pwl-du, a fall of 40 feet into a weird -ravine. The neighbourhood is full of interest to the antiquary and the -geologist. About three miles beyond Erwood the castle and woods of -Llangoed are passed, and Boughrood Castle appears on the left. ~Lyswen~ -is reputed to have been an early residence of the Welsh Princes. The -general character of the road between Builth and Talgarth may be -stated as not wildly grand, but an exquisite combination of river -scenery with eminently beautiful surroundings, where the ruggedness of -the rocks is softened by a covering of verdure, and foliage in subtle -gradations of beauty appears on every hand. It is probably one of the -most splendid roads for scenery of this character in the Principality. - - [Illustration: THE WYE, SYMOND'S YAT, NEAR MONMOUTH, HEREFORDSHIRE. - At this point the view embraces some of the finest river scenery in - Britain.] - - -TALGARTH - -This quiet little town, nestling under the shadow of the Black -Mountain, is chiefly noted for the proximity of ~Bronllys Castle~, one -mile distant, of Early English and reputed Norman architecture. It is -a round tower, 70 feet high, standing upon a mound, and its history -appears to have been lost. The Black Forest now lies upon the left -hand, and upon the right, at a few miles' distance, is Llangorse Lake, -a large but shallow sheet of water 500 feet above sea-level, and much -referred to as a probable source for the future supply of water to -London. The scheme is considered a feasible one, and the water would -flow to the metropolis by gravitation. According to tradition, the -lake covers the site of a large city which perished in some terrible -catastrophe--a similar type of legend to that of Semmerwater in -Wensleydale. As the road nears Crickhowell the great Sugar Loaf (1,955 -feet) becomes prominent, with a number of small villages, farmsteads, -and cottages dotting the slopes of the lower hills. The River Usk now -appears descending a valley from Brecon, together with the main road -from that place. - - -CRICKHOWELL - -~The Church~ is a building of some dignity, with nave, chancel, aisles, -and spire standing near the bridge. - -~The Castle~ remains consist of a square tower in fair preservation, -flanked by a round one, together with tumbled mounds of masonry and -earth. Several beautifully-situated seats are near the village. From -Crickhowell to Abergavenny two roads run, one on either side of the -valley, that upon the right being slightly longer, but it is more -picturesque. The Sugar Loaf Mountain lies to the left across the -valley, while an opening in the hills to the right reveals a glimpse -into the Black Country of the South Wales Coalfield. Near Llangrwyne -there is a most romantic stretch of country, with many beautiful -features. - - -ABERGAVENNY - -This flourishing market town claims a high antiquity in history as -being the direct descendant of the Roman _Gobannium_. Its quaint -narrow streets contain some houses of interest, while the splendid -country lying around tempts the tourist to stay. - -~The Castle~, standing upon an eminence overlooking the Usk, was an -important Norman stronghold. William de Braose, in the twelfth -century, invited many Welsh chieftains to a Christmas feast in the -castle, and then foully murdered them; in retaliation their relatives -burnt the castle. It, however, rose again, and came after a time into -the Warwick family, passing eventually to the Nevilles, represented -now by the Marquis of Abergavenny, who lives at Neville Court, up the -river. As a ruin, now laid out as something between a tea-garden and a -recreation-ground, the castle is exceedingly disappointing. The steeps -of the Blorenge are well seen from the terrace. - -~The Church~ is near the post office and market hall. The Herbert and -Lewes Chapels are the chief points of interest in it, but attention -should be drawn to the ancient carved-oak seats in the choir, and also -to the font. A colossal recumbent figure of what must at one time have -been a 'Jesse tree' is preserved here; it is 10 feet long, and the -stump of the tree remains, springing from the side of Jesse. When -complete it must have formed a splendid screen, standing behind the -high-altar. The wooden effigy of George de Cantelupe in the Herbert -Chapel (1273) is the finest example of early wood-carving extant in -these islands. - -Near the church stands Priory Mansion, with a good garden, and -splendid oak panelling in the interior. - -Abergavenny is an ideal place for the budding mountain-climber, who -can have excellent practice upon the Blorenge, the great Skyrrid, and -the Sugar Loaf. - - - - -SECTION IX - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER VIA NEWPORT AND MONMOUTH, 841/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Abergavenny= to Raglan Castle 9 - =Raglan Castle= to Usk 51/4 - =Usk= to Caerleon 73/4 - =Caerleon= to Newport 31/4 - =Newport= to Caerwent 11 - =Caerwent= to Chepstow 5 - =Chepstow= to Tintern 51/4 - =Tintern= to Monmouth 11 - =Monmouth= to Whitchurch 41/2 - =Whitchurch= to Ross 6 - =Ross= to Lea 41/2 - =Lea= to Dursley Cross 3 - =Dursley Cross= to Gloucester 83/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -Abergavenny to Newport.=--No steep hills, fine surface. - -Newport to Ross.=--A splendid road; at Chepstow a hill 1 in 12. - -At =Whitchurch= a dangerous hill, 1 in 10, with poor surface. - -After passing =Goodrich= the Wye is crossed by Kerne Bridge, where a -toll is charged for motor-cars. - -=Ross to Gloucester.=--Very good; no stiff gradients. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Raglan.=--Village and church; beautiful ruins of the castle; -picturesque scenery. - -=Usk.=--A village, with ruins of castle and a Norman church. - -=Caerleon.=--A village, with museum of Roman antiquities; the -amphitheatre. - -=Newport.=--A busy port; ruins of the castle; interesting church of -St. Woollos; the docks. - -=Caerwent.=--Small village with Roman remains; Caldicott Castle is a -little to south of route. - -=Chepstow.=--A market town; the castle, a fine example of a Norman -fortress; the church, chiefly of Norman architecture. - -=Tintern Abbey.=--One of the most beautiful ruins in England. - -=Tintern Parva.=--Hamlet, with small Early English church. - -=Monmouth.=--A pleasant county town; the county buildings; Monnow -Bridge or Western Gate; church, modern except tower. - -=Symond's Yat.=--Beautiful scenery on the Wye. - -=Goodrich Castle.=--On the Wye; beautiful ruins of one of the earliest -castles built in England. - -=Ross.=--Picturesque little town; Wilton Castle and bridge; the market -hall; the 'Man of Ross'; the church, good Early English work, with -interesting monuments; the castle remains. - -=Dursley Cross.=--The Long Hope; very fine views. - -=Gloucester.=--Old-fashioned county town; a grand cathedral, with tomb -of Edward II.; the Guildhall; the museum; Llanthony Abbey; the -churches of St. Catherine, St. Mary de Lode, St. Mary de Crypt, and -others; many old timbered houses; the New Inn. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 9. ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER.] - - [Map: ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER.] - -Soon after leaving Abergavenny the classic portico of Coldbrook House, -in its large park, is passed upon the left. Looking backwards over the -route, the picturesque situation of Abergavenny is seen, with the -Sugar Loaf, nearly 2,000 feet in height, towering up beyond. Upon the -right Blorenge Hill stands out boldly, a great rounded mass clothed -with plantations to the summit. It is a prominent feature in the -landscape for some time. - -Between Abergavenny and Llanvihangel-on-Usk the road follows the -railway-line and the river, and at the latter place a pretty stretch -of Usk scenery is met, while the fine church of Llangattock-juxta-Usk, -where there are some awkward turnings in the road, is well worth a -visit. Just beyond Llanvihangel the road to Raglan branches off to the -left, and a glance backwards shows the great mass of the Brecknock -Beacons silhouetted against the western sky. Clytha Castle, a building -dating from 1790, stands near this parting of the ways. Although so -near the border-line between England and Wales, the stereotyped -whitewashed cottages of Wales are still to be seen. - - -RAGLAN - -The road to the castle turns to the left in the middle of the village, -and stops abruptly at a meadow in which are the entrance-gates. -(_Admission to the castle 6d. at any reasonable time on weekdays; on -Sundays from 2.30 to 5._) - -A description of Raglan Castle that will give an approximate idea of -the exquisite beauty of this ruin has yet to be written; many have -attempted it, but all have fallen short of the charming reality. It is -a poem in stone; a crystallized ideal of all that was beautiful in -medieval architecture; the embodiment of centuries of progressive -emulation in castle-building, now mellowed by the hand of time, and -with its corners and rough edges covered by clinging masses of -creepers. It is eminently the most beautiful ruin to be met with in -this western tour. The chief characteristic is undoubtedly the -detached keep, which was built after the main structure; the element -of romance and mystery haunts one while looking down upon the dark -waters of the moat encircling this keep, and one feels a -disinclination to leave the place, although other castles await one. -No part of the building is of a date anterior to Henry V., and it was -chiefly erected by Sir William ap Thomas and his son, William, Earl of -Pembroke, who was beheaded in 1469. - -Subsequent architecture, however, may be traced down to the time of -Charles I. It came into the possession of the Beaufort family (the -present owner is the Duke of that name) by the marriage of an -ancestor. The Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII., was a prisoner -here for a time, and Charles I. sought refuge within these walls after -Naseby, in 1645. It was besieged by Fairfax in 1646, and dismantled by -Act of Parliament. - -Raglan Church is not worthy of much attention if time is short. The -tower was rebuilt, it is said, after having been demolished for -strategic purposes by Cromwell's orders. - - -USK - -Usk was formerly a Roman station, and in the immediate vicinity there -are several encampments, both Roman and British, where excellent -views are obtainable over the surrounding country, reaching to the -mountains near Abergavenny and to the wooded summits about Monmouth. - -~The Castle~, now dismantled and covered with ivy, stands upon a -prominent hill to the north; the Parliamentarians were responsible for -its destruction. - -~The Church~ is of Norman origin, with a tower rebuilt in recent years. - - -CAERLEON - - 'For Arthur on the Whitsuntide before - Held court at old Caerleon upon Usk.' - _Idylls of the King._ - -The name of Caerleon brings vivid recollections to the mind of the -Round Table and King Arthur, but its history commenced before the -sixth century, when the great Pendragon flourished. The name Caerleon -means 'The Camp of the Legion,' the Roman _Isca Silurum_, the capital -city of the province of _Britannia Secunda_. After the Roman -occupation it became a seat of learning. Remains of villas, Roman -walls, and other traces of the conquerors of the world, abound, and -the local museum is rich in treasures--chiefly of that period, but by -no means confined to it. The building is upon the farther side of the -churchyard. (_There is no fixed charge, but a box for contributions. -Key at the schoolhouse opposite._) The church is Early English, with -traces of Norman work in it. To the right of the schoolhouse a lane -leads for about a hundred yards to a field on the left, opposite a -racecourse, where the amphitheatre, 220 feet by 190 feet, may be seen. -Excavations have revealed the stone seats surrounding this concave -site, known locally as 'King Arthur's Round Table.' In the main street -of the sleepy little town some old timbered houses are found, and of -the once famous castle nothing now remains except a small tower, which -once protected the bridge over the river, behind the Hanbury Arms Inn. -The few houses upon the other bank of the Usk are known as 'Ultra -Pontem,' a most remarkable instance of persistence and survival. It is -difficult when walking through the streets of Caerleon to realize that -London, York, and this little place were once the three chief cities -of Britain. - - -NEWPORT - -Newport is an example of rapid growth from a small market town into a -flourishing port, with extensive docks, wharves, and jetties. It, -however, may claim a high antiquity, for it formed a post during the -Roman period. - -~The Castle.~--This was at one time an extensive building, and the river -face of it is still of impressive proportions. For many years the ruin -was occupied by a brewery, but the town has lately gained possession -of the sadly-diminished fortress. A deep moat, filled at high tide, -defended the walls of the bailey on the north, west, and south sides, -but all this has vanished, leaving only the eastern side, with three -imposing towers, washed by the muddy waters of the Usk. The Norman -Fitzharon, who conquered Glamorgan, built a castle at Newport towards -the close of the eleventh century; but the existing structure is three -centuries later, and was, to some extent, remodelled in the fifteenth -century. The town was protected by a wall as late as Leland's time, -and he speaks of three gates. One of these was close to the inn, -called the West Gate to this day. Conspicuous in the High Street is -the house of the _murringer_, a person whose duties were in connection -with the guarding of the wall. - -~The Church of St. Woollos~ has been restored, but preserves many of its -Norman features, and contains interesting memorials, some of them of -considerable antiquity. A remarkable feature is the separation of the -tower from the church by a small building, the Chapel of St. Mary, -believed by some ecclesiologists to be the primitive church founded -_c._ 550, and, if so, the most ancient building still used for -Christian worship in the United Kingdom. The two structures are -divided by a good Norman arch, the columns of which appear to be of -Roman origin, and were possibly brought from Caerleon. - -During the Chartist riots the Mayor of Newport, backed by some -soldiers, defended himself from a mob headed by Jack Frost. Bullet -marks may be seen upon a wooden pillar in the West Gate Hotel, where -the Mayor concentrated his defence, many of the rioters being killed -and wounded. - - * * * * * - -The road from Newport to Caerwent gives wide views over the alluvial -flats between it and the Estuary of the Severn, protected from -inundations by extensive embankments, while to the north the great -woods lying upon high land are a pleasing contrast. At first the road -is nearly flat, but it becomes undulating near Caerwent. This road is -part of the _Via Julia_, which commenced near the mouth of the Severn, -passed through Caerwent and Caerleon, and terminated at Neath in -Glamorganshire. - -~Cencoed Castle~ lies upon the right hand; the remains are not very -extensive, consisting chiefly of a gateway flanked with turrets. A -mansion was at one time incorporated with the main portion of the -castle, but was subsequently abandoned, and now the whole of the -buildings form a farmhouse. - -~Penhow Castle~ lies by the side of the road, near the village of the -same name. A short time after the Norman Conquest this fortress was in -the possession of the Seymours. It seems to have been at one period -fairly extensive, but only an old square tower with battlements -remains, and this also has been converted into a farmhouse. - - -CAERWENT - -is a small village with no pretensions of importance, although the -descendant of a strong Roman town. The walls stand from 10 to 12 feet -thick, are well preserved, and are similar in many respects to those -at Carnarvon. A good facing of stone is backed up by a solid mass of -concrete, and then a supporting bank of earth is raised behind them. -The church occupies a prominent position, but does not possess any -noteworthy feature. ~Caldicott~ ~Castle~, lying to the south of the -route, has extensive remains of the foundation of the twelfth century, -and at the same time some indications of Saxon work belonging to the -previous fortalice built upon the site. Passing Crick, Mathern is -perceived upon the right. The Bishops of Llandaff had a palace here in -medieval times, and portions of it are still in existence, -incorporated with the modern farm-buildings. - - -CHEPSTOW - -is a market town and river port occupying a slope on the western bank -of the Wye, and surrounded by beautiful and sometimes imposing -scenery. - - [Illustration: COMING NIGHT, NEAR BEDDGELERT. - Beddgelert is one of the most romantically situated villages in North - Wales.] - -~The Castle~ is the dominating feature in the town, and is one of the -finest examples of a Norman fortress that has been preserved. It -stands upon a rocky eminence, and occupies nearly three acres. Founded -by Fitz-Osborn, Earl of Hereford, in the eleventh century, it was -almost rebuilt in the thirteenth. It was garrisoned by the King during -the Civil War, but surrendered in 1645 to the Parliamentarians. The -castle was divided into four great courts, and a number of round -towers defended the exterior walls, while a deep ditch upon the -land side, now used as a public resort, completed the defences. - -~The Church of St. Mary~ is built near the river, and is coeval with the -castle. A priory stood here in the time of King Stephen, and the nave -of the present church is the nave of the priory chapel. The larger -part of the building is Norman, while the western doorway is an -exceptionally fine example of the period. The tombs of Somerset, -second Earl of Worcester, and Elizabeth, his Countess, are worthy of -special notice. - -The road to Tintern gives at first a view of the remains of an ancient -bridge opposite Chepstow Castle, which, when in use, rose and fell -with the tide. Piercefield Park lies upon the right hand, with an -early camp amongst the trees. At St. Arvans the road bears to the -right, and a number of S turns are met. Near here is the well-known -'Lovers' Leap.' Moss Cottage stands by the road farther on, with the -Windcliff, famous for its glorious view of the Wye, above it. Upon the -opposite bank of the river, and beyond the railway, is a lengthy -section of Offa's Dyke, and probably a glimpse may be obtained from -the road of the Devil's Pulpit. - - -TINTERN ABBEY - -Tintern Abbey occupies a beautiful site upon one of the loveliest -rivers in England, and the ruins have been claimed by many as the most -picturesque in existence; but many other roofless abbey churches, -placed in the same exquisite surroundings, would appear to equal -advantage, and one is inclined to attribute Tintern's fame to its -scenery rather than to its architecture. The abbey owes much to Roger -Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, and a descendant of the De Clares, who, -according to the records, provided for extensive building in the -middle of the thirteenth century; but much of the architecture, -especially that in the south wall of the chapter-house, speaks of an -earlier date. The cloisters are late Perpendicular (1469), and were -undoubtedly of great magnificence. The abbey was dissolved in 1537, -and since then the buildings have gradually fallen into decay. The -structural parts which may be recognized are: the church, with north -and south transepts; cloisters, on the north side of the nave; -sacristy and monks' library, adjoining the north wall of the north -transept; chapter-house and monks' parlour, monks' dayroom, parlour, -refectory and almoner's room, all to the north; together with the -kitchen, buttery, lavatory, and other small rooms. - -The road from Tintern accompanies the Wye in conjunction with the -railway-line, and beautiful hanging woods, broken up with grey cliffs, -form lovely backgrounds to every view. - -~Tintern Parva~ is a small hamlet with a church erected in the Early -English period, but not of great interest. At Bigsweir Bridge the -river is crossed and the turning to the left taken. Offa's Dyke now -lies upon the right hand. - -~Redbrook~ is a village placed in a small combe of great beauty. The -church, with its Perpendicular tower, is worth seeing. The monuments -to John Joce and his wife, _temp._ Edward III., are preserved there, -together with two priests and a brass showing a 'free miner.' - - -MONMOUTH - -The situation of Monmouth is an ideal one, as it is surrounded by -hills, through which the Wye, the Monnow, and the Trothy flow. It was -at one time fortified by a surrounding wall pierced by four gates; but -the Monnow, or Western Gate, dating from 1270, is regarded by some -writers as a toll-gate rather than one of those belonging to the wall. -This gate stands upon the Monnow Bridge, and is a strikingly -picturesque feature of the town. Of the Roman origin of Monmouth (the -_Blestium_ of Antoninus) there are at present no traces, but it was a -fortified station as early as the Saxon period. - -~The Church of St. Mary~ was rebuilt from the designs of Street in 1881, -with the exception of the tower and the tall and very slender spire. -Near it, in Priory Street, is a building called 'Geoffrey's Study,' -possessing a Perpendicular window corbelled out on brackets. It cannot -possibly have been used by Geoffrey of Monmouth, after whom it is -named, as he died in 1154. The building, or, more correctly, the old -portion of it, is a remnant of the domestic buildings of the -Benedictine Priory. - -~St. Thomas's Church~, in Overmonnow, contains some Norman architecture. -Near the door of the church stands an elaborate cross. - -~The Shire Hall~, built in 1724, has a solemn facade bearing in the -centre a niche filled with a metal statue of Henry V., the hero of -Agincourt. One cannot be long in Monmouth without being reminded of -Harry of that ilk, for the square in front of the Shire Hall, formerly -the bull-ring, is now called Agincourt Square. Many quaint old houses -and inns still exist in the town, the Robin Hood in Monnow Street and -the Queen's Head in Wyebridge Street being good examples of the -picturesque hostelry, so attractive after journeying for many miles in -Wales, where every town is uniformly dreary in its architecture. -Monmouth Castle stood on a raised site close to the church. It was a -ruin at the beginning of the seventeenth century, and where the keep -stood there is a house of that period. There are still, however, some -sections of walls, and one window of the great hall survives. - - * * * * * - -On leaving Monmouth by the Ross Road, the little parish church of -~Dixton~ is soon encountered, and farther on the beautiful level height -called King Arthur's Plain is seen across the river. At times it -presents the appearance of towers belonging to a castle. - - (It is advisable not to take cars down the road marked 'To - Symond's Yat and the Hotel,' between Kerne Bridge and - Whitchurch, as it is very narrow and rough. The road from - Whitchurch is better.) - -~Symond's Yat~ is a rock which towers up to 800 feet above the surface -of the river. The ascent is quite easy, and from the upper part a -magnificent view is to be obtained. The scenery at this part of the -Wye is of quite exceptional beauty. Between the road and Symond's Yat -two hills--the Great and Little Dowards--occur. Upon the top of the -latter is a fine British camp, reputed to have once been occupied by -Caractacus. - -~Whitchurch~ is a pretty little village possessing an Early English -church dedicated to St. Dubricius, Archbishop of Caerleon in the sixth -century. The remains of a stone cross have been restored. After -leaving Whitchurch, the roads become somewhat confusing, and care -should be taken at the turns. At the foot of the bridge carrying the -main road over the river stands Flanesford Priory, which was erected -in 1347. From Kerne Bridge a magnificent prospect of the Wye is -obtained. - -~Goodrich Castle~ was an early residence of the Earls of Shrewsbury (the -Talbots) and there is little doubt that the ruins now seen upon these -rocky heights are all that is left of one of the first castles built -in England, dating well back into the Saxon period. The keep was built -in the time of Stephen, and it will be noticed that no windows look -away from the castle. In the Civil War it was taken by the -Parliamentarians, with the inevitable result. It is a noble and -imposing ruin, and a journey up the Wye Valley should not omit a visit -to Goodrich Castle. - -~Goodrich Court~ lies half a mile north of the castle. It was built in -the early part of the last century by Sir Samuel Meyrick, the -well-known authority upon, and collector of, ancient arms and armour, -and also the author of valuable works upon the same subject. The fine -collection was sold some time since, and the house purchased in 1870 -by Mr. George Moffatt. - -~Goodrich Church~ stands in the little village of that name near the -Court, and should be visited, as the stained-glass windows are good. -The ancestors of Dean Swift resided in the parish, and one of them was -the Vicar and a notable Royalist. - -The main road to Ross now leaves the Wye, but in order to see Wilton -Castle, that passing near the river should be taken. - -~Wilton Castle~ was built soon after the Norman Conquest. It stands near -the river upon ground which is not elevated, and was erected to -protect the Welsh marches. It has been held by various families--the -Longchamps, the De Greys, and that of Chandos. It suffered from the -Parliamentary army in 1645. The remains consist of the outer walls -only. A footpath will be found running between the walls and the -river. - -Wilton Bridge is a well-known landmark near Ross. It was built in the -reign of Elizabeth, and consists of six arches. One of them--that near -Wilton--is more recent than the others, having been rebuilt since its -destruction by the Roundheads during the Civil War. - - -ROSS, - -a picturesque little town with the steepest of streets, is perched -upon uneven rocky ground high above the left bank of the Wye, and is -surrounded by hills on three sides. It was a town at the time of -Domesday. - -~The Market Hall~ stands prominently in the centre of the town, and its -quaintness adds much to the attractiveness of the place. It was built -in the time of Charles II., and the upper part is now used for the -County Court and Petty Sessions. On the exterior of the south wall one -notices a curious carving of the letters F and C, with a heart, -reputed to be 'faithful to Charles in heart.' The 'Man of Ross,' who -was famed for his good deeds, and is alluded to by Pope, lived -opposite the Market Hall. The lower part of the house is now a -stationer's shop. The good man's name was John Kyrle, and his -portrait, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, can be seen in the upper room of the -Market Hall, together with his will and an autograph letter, dated -1695. - - [Illustration: TINTERN ABBEY. - Showing the beautiful reach of the Wye which flows between steep - wooded scarps.] - -~The Church~ stands on higher ground than the rest of the town, on the -south-west side. It is chiefly Early English, and has a nave with -aisles, chancel, and three chapels. One of the chapels on the south -side has a parvise over it. Probably the feature which the average -visitor finds most interesting is the presence of two elm-trees -growing out of the wall inside the church. Both saplings are now dead, -but some creepers running over them afford sufficient foliage to -simulate vitality. - -There is an Easter sepulchre in the chancel, and a tablet opposite the -organ contains sage reflections upon man's life and destiny. Of the -monuments remaining in the church, one, dated 1637, of a knight and -lady, is probably one of the most perfect memorials of contemporary -costume to be found in any church. The 'Man of Ross,' who follows the -visitor wherever he goes in this town, lies interred under a flat -slab, and against the wall is preserved a splendid marble monument to -his memory, erected in 1766 by a relative. A door leading to the -vanished rood-loft is on the north side of the chancel arch. The loft -apparently contained a piscina similar to Eastbourne Old Church. - -~Of Ross Castle~ but little remains at the present time to give an idea -of its former importance and extent. A tower, which may be entered, -stands near the church, and in the High Street another portion is -seen. From the first-mentioned there is a beautiful view, including -Symond's Yat, the Great and Little Dowards, with a fine range of hills -upon the horizon, and a splendid loop of the Wye lying at one's feet, -with Wilton Castle and the bridge in the foreground. Ross is in many -ways a capital centre for exploring the Wye Valley. - - * * * * * - -The road between Ross and Gloucester for about half the distance lies -in a picturesque piece of country on the northern confines of the -Forest of Dean, chiefly covered with coppices, grown for the sale of -the bark, the manufacture of charcoal, and the distillation of -wood-spirit. It is one of the wildest portions of Gloucestershire. - -~Weston-under-Penyard~ is a small village near the ruins of ~Penyard -Castle~ and the conspicuous hill of that name. The church was restored -in 1870, and is not of great interest. Near this village is the site -of the ancient _Ariconium_. The rise to Lea affords a view of -considerable interest backwards, extending as far as Graig Serrerthin -in Monmouthshire. - -~Lea Church~ stands beside the road, and possesses a remarkable font of -Indian workmanship inlaid with mosaic. The base represents an -elephant, from which springs a twisted, snake-like column supporting -the basin. Nearly two miles to the south of the road lies the village -of Mitcheldean. The Early English spire of the church is occasionally -seen through the trees, as it stands upon high ground. - -A number of sharp turns now occur, and the rise to Dursley Cross is a -steady one. The road is good, and a splendid view may be obtained from -the summit, which is 500 feet above sea-level. A long descent -eventually leads to Huntley, lying upon the lowlands which surround -Gloucester. After crossing the Severn, the ruins of ~Llanthony Abbey~ -can be seen to the south. The whole of this comparatively level -country is of the most beautiful description, covered with English -homesteads nestling among orchards, which are quite exquisite in -spring-time. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 9--GLOUCESTER.] - -GLOUCESTER - -~Gloucester~, the _Glevum_ of the Romans and the _Glow Ceaster_ of the -Saxons, lies in the centre of a broad valley, and possesses a history -of no mean order. The Saxon kings made the place their residence, and -in 681 founded a nunnery, which subsequently became a monastery and -the nucleus of the present cathedral. Parliaments have been summoned -in this city, and its connection with the Empress Matilda in the time -of Stephen is well known. In the Civil War, Gloucester was on the side -of the Parliament, and resisted a Royalist army in 1643--a regrettable -fact, to which must be attributed the demolition of the city walls at -the Restoration. - -~The Cathedral~ has dignified surroundings, and velvety turf runs up to -the weather-stained masonry. The most prominent architecture to arrest -the eye is the Perpendicular, of which, from the exterior, the -cathedral appears mainly to consist, although Norman, Early English, -and Decorated are all represented. The Perpendicular south porch is -richly decorated, and possesses a parvise. Upon entering, the enormous -Norman columns of the nave, standing closely together and towering -upwards, at once fix the attention. The semicircular arches upon them -appear small when compared with other cathedrals, while the triforium -and clerestory are dwarfed and rendered comparatively unimportant. The -zigzag and chevron work in the bays is of excellent character. The -choir is pure Perpendicular and probably unsurpassed, and the glass in -the large window is old and a grand example of medieval work. The bold -and original idea of ornamenting comparatively plain Norman work with -the delicate beauty of the Perpendicular has been carried out to the -fullest perfection. The vaulting of the roof should be especially -noted. The monument on the north of the choir, of Osric, King of -Mercia, 729, was probably made about 1520. Next to it is the splendid -monument of the unhappy Edward II., whose wasted career was terminated -at Berkeley Castle, where he was murdered in 1377. Above the -altar-tomb is a beautifully sculptured effigy of the King in -alabaster, resting under a gorgeously elaborate canopy. It is -interesting to remember that this tomb--one of the finest of the royal -monuments in England--was put up to a vain and worthless King by his -son and successor, whose reign helped to make the country prosperous, -while the man whose memory is perpetuated in richly carved alabaster -allowed his father (Edward I.), a great and courageous King, to rest -under the five plain slabs of marble to be seen in Westminster Abbey. -The recumbent effigy of Abbot Parker, last Abbot of Gloucester, should -be noticed. The chantry, however, is a cenotaph. - -~The North and South Transepts~ are Norman, enriched with Perpendicular -work. From these points the flying arches, added to relieve the strain -on the piers supporting the central tower arches, are features of -grace and beauty. The north and south choir aisles each possess a -side-chapel, in one of which Robert, Duke of Normandy, lies. He died -in 1134 in Cardiff Castle, after an imprisonment of twenty-six years. -~The Lady Chapel~ is of magnificent Perpendicular work. There are -chapels also leading from the choir triforium, superimposed upon those -below. ~The Crypt~ is Early Norman work. ~The Cloisters~ are the finest -in England, the roof being vaulted with fan-tracery, said to be the -earliest example. In the north walk of the cloisters is the lavatory, -with a long trough at which the monks washed, still in a perfect -state, while in the wall opposite is a place for the towels. In the -south walk are twenty recesses where the monks studied or wrote. The -whole of the windows in these cloisters are filled with stained glass. -~The Chapter-house~ is of plain Norman work, with the exception of one -small portion. By its side is the abbot's cloister, over which is the -chapter library, containing some manuscripts of great value. - - [Map: PLAN OF GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL. - - _Monuments._ - - 1. Dr. Jenner. - 2. Alderman Jones. - 3. Abbot Seabroke. - 4. Brydges. - 5. Sarah Morley (by Flaxman). - 6. Alderman Machen. - 7. Bower. - 8. Alderman Blackleech. - 9. Abbot Foliot. - 10. Osric. - 11. Edward II. - 12. Bishop Parker. - 13. Courtehouse. - 14. Bishop Godfrey. - 15. Thomas Fitzwilliams. - - _Parts of Building._ - - A. West door. - B. South porch. - C. Monks' door to Cloisters. - D. Abbot's door to Cloisters. - E. Reliquary. - F. Chapel. - G. Doorway to Crypt. - H. Chapel of St. Andrew. - I. Sedilia. - K. Chapel of Duke of Normandy. - L. Abbot Hanley's Chantry. - M. Abbot Farley's Chantry. - N. Chapel. - O. Lavatory. - P. Passage to Cloisters. - Q. Slype and Sacristy.] - -The cathedral has a number of interesting ruins on the northern side. -These include the remains of a Dominican monastery, founded in the -ninth century and rebuilt in 1115, of which some arches and pillars -remain. There are other buildings partially adapted for modern -purposes. - -Gloucester also possesses some churches of considerable interest, such -as ~St. Mary de Lode~, said to be the oldest in the city, with the -Norman chancel and tower of the original building. In the churchyard -stands a monument to Bishop Hooper, burnt alive on the spot in 1555. -~St. Mary de Crypt~ is of Early English workmanship, and derives its -name from two large crypts beneath it. It stands in Southgate Street, -and has a beautiful and lofty tower. ~St. Michael the Cross~ was rebuilt -in 1815, but incorporates original Decorated work. It is said to have -a connection with the ancient Abbey of St. Peter. The curfew bell is -still rung from the tower every evening. ~St. Nicholas~, in Westgate -Street, also contains Norman and Early English work. - -One of the greatest charms of Gloucester lies in the multiplicity of -houses to be found which range in date from the fourteenth to the -seventeenth century, and a ramble through the streets will disclose -many besides those seen with a hurried glance. The New Inn, for -example, despite its unpromising name, possesses a courtyard with -surrounding gallery eminently medieval in every respect, and the -feeling is not lessened by a descent into the adjoining vaults. It was -built in 1450 by John Twining, a monk, for the accommodation of -pilgrims to the shrine of Edward II. It may be of interest to note -that the wood employed is chestnut. A fine old timbered house stands -in Northgate Street, but has been refronted. A passage, however, -affords a view at the side. There are many other examples of old -domestic architecture to be found at the junctions of the four -principal streets in the centre of the town, where, it may be -mentioned, the Town Hall stands upon the site of the ancient Courts of -Justice. - - * * * * * - -In selecting a motoring centre in this part of England, the writer has -found Gloucester to be a very suitable one in every way. The Bell and -County Hotel has a large garage, and combines in a very exceptional -manner the charm of the old-fashioned English hostelry with the needs -of the present day. Apart from the long routes described in these -pages, there are many short runs from Gloucester to pretty villages in -the Cotswolds and to historic spots, such as Berkeley Castle, -Llanthony Abbey, Deerhurst Priory, and a dozen other places, which a -local handbook will point out. Nearly all the important places in the -neighbourhood are described in this book. - - - - -LOOP No. 6 - -=FIRST PORTION=: HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY--=SECOND PORTION=: SHREWSBURY -TO WORCESTER, LEDBURY, AND HEREFORD - -HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 543/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Hereford= to Moreton-on-Lug 4 - =Moreton-on-Lug= to Bodenham Moor 33/4 - =Bodenham Moor= to Leominster 7 - =Leominster= to Wooferton 71/4 - =Wooferton= to Ludlow 4 - =Ludlow= to Craven Arms 73/4 - =Craven Arms= to Church Stretton 73/4 - =Church Stretton= to Dorrington 61/2 - =Dorrington= to Shrewsbury 63/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -To =Shrewsbury= a first-class road; a hill of 1 in 12 at =Ludlow= and -1 in 15 at =Bodenham Hill=. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Sutton Walls.=--Remains of Offa's castle. - -=Bodenham.=--A village with a large and handsome church. - -=Hampton Court.=--A house dating from the time of Henry IV. - -=Leominster.=--A very picturesque town; the Town Hall; the church, -with the nave of a former Priory; the Butter Cross. - -=Ludlow.=--An old and very interesting town; the church, one of the -finest in England; the Guildhall; an excellent museum; Richard's -Castle near the town. - -=Stokesay Castle.=--One of the most perfect fortified houses of the -thirteenth century in the kingdom; strikingly picturesque. - -=Craven Arms.=--The camp of Caer Caradoc; the Long Mynd district; -extremely picturesque hills of exceptional interest to geologists. - -=Church Stretton.=--A pretty village in charming surroundings of -wooded hills and valleys; Norman and Transitional cruciform church. - - - [Map: LOOP 6 (FIRST PORTION). HEREFORD TO CHURCH STRETTON. - _Continued on p. 230._] - -(_For description and plan of_ ~Hereford~, _see pp. 176-179_.) - -The road to Leominster passes due north out of Hereford by, or rather -through, the racecourse, and directly afterwards ~Holmer Church~ is seen -upon the left side of the road. It belongs to Early English times, and -has a detached tower. - -~Moreton-on-Lug~ has a church which has recently been restored, but it -contains some altar-tombs of the Dauncer family. From this point -onwards Robin Hood's Butts and the Sugar Loaf Hills become prominent -objects in the landscape on the left, their rugged summits of -sandstone resisting the action of the weather better than the soft -marls through which they protrude. - -~Sutton Walls~ lie to the right upon a wooded hill, and are of great -historical interest. Offa, king of Mercia, had a palace there, and to -it Ethelbert, king of the East Angles, was invited, the ostensible -object being his marriage to the daughter of the Mercian king. The -young prince was foully murdered by the connivance of Quendrida, -Offa's queen, and East Anglia annexed to Mercia in A.D. 782. In -expiation of this deed Offa founded the great monastery at St. Albans. -There is a large encampment upon the hill, with four entrances, -apparently of Roman origin, and containing an area of about thirty -acres. - -Entering a low-lying district, upon which stands Wellington Marsh, -~Marden Church~ is seen upon the right, the place of Ethelbert's first -interment, the original building having been erected by Offa. -~Wellington Church~, lying to the left of the road, is chiefly of modern -construction. Two miles farther on a bifurcation occurs, and the road -to the right may be taken if one wishes to avoid the rather steep way -leading over Dinmore Hill. ~Bodenham~ is the next village on the route. -It possesses a large church of the Early English and Decorated -Periods, containing an alabaster tomb of Sir Walter Devereux, 1401. In -the village will be seen the remains of a large cross and a well. A -sharp turn to the left at England's Gate leads back in a few miles to -the junction with the main road near ~Hope-under-Dinmore~, crossing the -River Lug just before the junction. Hope Church, standing on the -hill-side, contains many tablets to the Coningsby family. About two -miles to the right of Ford lies Risbury Camp, of an oval form, with -deep ditches surrounding it, and containing an area of about eight -acres. ~Hampton Court~ was built by Sir Roland Lenthall in the time of -Henry IV., and much enlarged by ransoms subsequently obtained from -prisoners at the Battle of Agincourt. It was once the home of the Earl -of Coningsby. Mr. J. H. Arkwright, a descendant of Richard Arkwright, -is now the owner. The Court has been partially rebuilt. - - -LEOMINSTER - -This town presents an exceedingly picturesque aspect, a number of -medieval or Renaissance buildings having survived. It was a place of -importance in the days of the Heptarchy, and a monastery was -instituted by Merewald, king of the West Mercians, in the seventh -century, which, however, disappeared subsequently in the Danish -invasions. A residence of the Saxon kings, together with a stronghold, -was also raised here, only to be destroyed in a Welsh raid in 1088. In -1125 Henry I. established a Benedictine cell under the rule of Reading -Priory, and the buildings now form part of the workhouse! - -~The Church~ includes examples of almost every style of architecture. -The nave is Norman, and originally formed part of the Priory Church -standing upon this site. The monuments are very numerous, and some of -the finest window tracery in any ecclesiastical building in the -British Isles exists here. A fire in the eastern parts of the church -in 1699 led to a restoration in a very debased style. The Butter Cross -is an object of interest, and in the Bargates are Georgian almshouses -dating back to 1736. They have an effigy with an inscription -containing an admonition against the exercise of charity without -discrimination. The road to Ludlow lies upon the eastern side of the -railway, and a sharp turn to the right occurs in the town. ~Ivington -Camp~ is a British earthwork, but was considerably strengthened by Owen -Glendower when he retreated from Leominster and was vigorously pursued -by Prince Henry. One mile to the right lies Eaton Hall, now a -farmhouse. It was erected in the time of Henry V., and was once -occupied by the old family of Hakluyt.[1] - -~Eye~ lies to the left of the road, and has a church with some fine -alabaster monuments in it--one figure with the collar of SS. -Berrington Hall and Park, the seat of Lord Rodney, are close by. The -country passed through for some miles past is a cider district, and -numerous orchards can be seen on every side. Near Woofferton is a fine -open stretch of country, in which the highlands upon the left, wooded -to their summits, form a welcome break. ~Richard's Castle~, of the motte -and bailey type, lies under the hills. It was erected in the reign of -Edward the Confessor, and stands upon a mound 60 feet in height, with -some peculiar earthworks adjoining. It is a matter for remark that -this stronghold was erected and occupied by a Norman, Richard, the son -of Scrop, _before_ the Conquest, and thus is one of a little group of -castles of peculiar interest. An old church at the town of Richard's -Castle has a detached belfry. - - -LUDLOW - -This is an ancient British town lying in an amphitheatre of high -ground, but no reliable history relating to the place is extant until -after the Conquest, when Roger de Montgomery founded the ~Castle~, which -for a considerable time was the residence of Royalty, more -particularly of Edward IV. and his children. Ludlow was also the seat -of the Grand Council entrusted with the jurisdiction of the Marches. -The keep of the castle was erected between 1086 and 1096. In the Civil -War the castle surrendered to the Parliamentary forces in 1646, at the -same time as Bridgnorth. The appearance of the dismantled fortress on -an eminence above the River Teme is imposing and impressive, as the -Norman towers and bastions, together with a considerable portion of -the curtain walls, are still standing. - -~The Church~ stands upon elevated ground near the castle, and is of -Decorated Gothic, dating from the time of Edward III., although -originally built in the twelfth century. It is dedicated to St. -Lawrence, and is a cruciform building with a lofty tower, and one of -the finest churches in England. There is also a guildhall, a -town-hall, and the museum, chiefly confined to natural history, has a -grand collection of Silurian fossils. A very fine timbered house, the -Lane Asylum, dates from 1672. - -From the district round Bromfield a fine view is obtained of Clee -Hill lying to the right, with Titterstone Camp, 1,749 feet above the -sea, on it. Farther to the north is Brown Clee Hill, 1,792 feet high, -with Corne Dale to the left. Near Onibury the route is well wooded, -and the valley becomes contracted as the road leads through a break in -Wenlock Edge. Upon the right Norton Camp, a horseshoe-shaped -entrenchment, occupies the summit of a knoll. - - -STOKESAY CASTLE - -is reached just before coming to Craven Arms Station. It is, without -exaggeration, one of the most picturesque and also one of the earliest -fortified houses in the kingdom. From almost any point of view it -thrills the artist, the architect, the archaeologist, and the ordinary -visitor who has any capacity to read sermons in stones. The very name -'Stokesay' tells the story of Norman owner superseding Saxon, the Says -or Sayes being descendants of Picot de Sai, who came over with the -Conqueror, a similar instance being found in Stoke d'Abernon in -Surrey, where the Saxon 'Stoke' is again tacked on to the name of the -new Norman owner. The gatehouse of the castle, although a highly -picturesque timber-framed building of Elizabethan times, with a -carving of Adam and Eve and the Serpent over the door, is not the -most interesting feature, for the rest of the building belongs to the -thirteenth century, and is quite one of the best examples of a -fortified house of the Early English period. The moat is now dry, but -otherwise one can see in Stokesay the type of house close to the Welsh -Marches which was occupied by a lesser feudal lord in the days when -Wales was still the home of unconquered tribesmen, who might at any -time make a sudden descent into English territory. Facing the gateway -is the hall, 51 feet by 31 feet (internal measurements), lighted with -four tall lancet windows looking on to the moat on the west side. The -open timber roof is blackened with smoke, for there was no fireplace, -and the smoke from the central brazier escaped through an outlet in -the roof. The builder of this hall is given by the late Mr. Augustus -Hare as John de Verdun, who died in 1279, while the curious and -picturesque polygonal tower at the south corner was no doubt built by -Verdun's successor, that Lawrence de Ludlow who received permission -from Edward I. to fortify his house of Stokesay. It would be a -pleasant task to describe every room and every architectural detail of -this fascinating castle, but space unfortunately does not permit. - -~The Church~ at Stokesay was rebuilt after the Civil War. Beautiful -views of the Long Mynd, of Wenlock Edge, and the ridge lying between -them, now open up. The church at the little village of ~Wistanstow~ has -been restored, and during the alterations a carved oak roof of the -Perpendicular period came to light. - - -CHURCH STRETTON - -is a village in an exceedingly pleasant situation, with the Long Mynd -ridge of hills to the west, and with Hope Bowdler, Caer Caradoc, and -the Lawley nearly opposite. The name Stretton, like Streatham, -indicates the presence of a Roman road--one of those leading -southwards from the great Roman city of _Uriconium_. - -The interesting cruciform church has a Norman nave with Transitional -central tower and transepts. Several Perpendicular windows have been -inserted. Mr. Hare mentions a stone in the churchyard, near the -sundial, bearing this inscription to Ann Cook, who died in 1814: - - 'On a Thursday she was born, - On a Thursday made a bride, - On a Thursday broke her leg, - And on a Thursday died.' - -'Hesba Stretton,' the novelist, took her pen-name from this village, -where she lived for many years. - -Near Church Stretton the site of Brockhurst Castle is passed over. -Bodbury Ring, to the left beyond Church Stretton, is said to have been -occupied by Ostorius Scapula previous to his great battle with -Caractacus. The site of the engagement is on the right, and a mile -farther on the road leads under Caer Caradoc Hill, 1,506 feet high, -with a perfect camp, vallum, and ditches upon the summit, wherein -Caradoc entrenched himself previous to the fight. The district under -the Long Mynd is extremely picturesque, with deep gullies and cross -valleys running into the great ridge, whose elevation in places -reaches to 1,600 feet. It is a paradise for geologists, deposits -emerging from underneath the Silurian which are of more than ordinary -interest. The Caradoc Range is an old volcanic outburst. The line of -the Roman road traversing the valley already mentioned may be noted -running parallel with the railway. - -(_For description and plan of ~Shrewsbury~, see pp. 76-79._) - -FOOTNOTE: - -[Footnote 1: A Welsh family, of whom Richard Hakluyt (1552?-1616), the -famous geographer, is the best known.] - - - - -LOOP No. 6--SECOND PORTION - -SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 811/4 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Shrewsbury= to Buildwas 113/4 - =Buildwas= to Ironbridge 2 - =Ironbridge= to Bridgnorth 73/4 - =Bridgnorth= to Birdsgreen 7 - =Birdsgreen= to Kidderminster 71/4 - =Kidderminster= to Worcester 141/2 - =Worcester= to Malvern 81/4 - =Malvern= to Ledbury 8 - =Ledbury= to Hereford 143/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Shrewsbury to Worcester.=--A few hills only to Bridgnorth; thence to -Kidderminster some steep hills, but otherwise an excellent road. One -of the hills is 1 in 12 after Shatterford; after that good. - -=Worcester to Hereford.=--To Malvern splendid; between Malvern and -Ledbury ascent 1 in 9, descent 1 in 11 in crossing the Malvern Hills, -then very good road to Hereford, with only trifling hills. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Buildwas Abbey.=--A beautiful ruin. - -=Bridgnorth.=--A picturesque town, with a church and the remains of a -castle; the bridge. - -=Kidderminster.=--A town famed for its manufacture of carpets; church, -Perpendicular. - -=Stourport.=--An uninteresting town. - -=Ombersley.=--A picturesque village; The Court, the residence of Lord -Sandys. - -=Worcester.=--A busy city; the cathedral and tomb of King John; the -Edgar Tower; the Guildhall; the famous porcelain works. - -=Great Malvern.=--A finely-situated watering-place; the abbey gateway; -a Norman church, originally a priory church. - -=Ledbury.=--Picturesque market town, with old market hall and several -quaint houses; church, Norman, Early English, and Perpendicular; tower -detached. - -=Hereford.=--(See p. 176.) - - - [Map: LOOP 6. (NORTHERN PART INCLUDING SHREWSBURY). - _Continued on p. 239._] - -The route from Shrewsbury follows that to _Uriconium_ for nearly a -mile, when a bifurcation occurs, and the road to the right is chosen, -passing through Sutton and Cound. The church at the latter place is -chiefly of Early English architecture; it contains a carved early -Norman font of great interest. The Wrekin, with Heaven's Gate Camp -upon it, is a prominent feature in the distance, while the Severn -indulges in sinuous windings by the side of the road. ~Buildwas Abbey~ -is quite close to the road; it presents a beautiful aspect, and is -one of the finest ruins in the county. The abbey was founded by Roger -de Clinton, Bishop of Chester, in 1135, for Cistercians. Parts of it -still remain roofed. Coalbrookdale is historically interesting as the -cradle of the iron trade. It sprang into prominence when the Sussex -ironfields had to be abandoned, owing to the shrinkage of the forests -there. In 1700 members of the Darby family experimented upon iron ore -smelted with coal and coke, and since then it has been a centre of the -iron industry. - -~Ironbridge~ contains nothing of any particular interest. It is a town -of foundries, forges, and furnaces, while hideous tiers of dirty -cottages cluster on the steep hill-side. In the town is the iron -bridge from which the place gains its name; it is a bridge of a single -span, stretching 120 feet, and is the first on record. Its presence is -due to the energy of Abraham Darby, of the Coalbrookdale Works, in -1779. From Ironbridge the road trends away from the Severn, passing -through a well-wooded country, and eventually reaches - - -BRIDGNORTH - -This picturesque town is reputed to have been founded by a daughter of -Alfred the Great, and was fortified with walls and a castle by Robert -de Belesme, Earl of Shrewsbury. Henry I. besieged it in 1102, and in -the time of Henry II. it was dismantled. The walls suffered the same -fate at the hands of the Parliamentary forces after a long siege in -1646. The upper town is built upon a steep rocky plateau, which rises -abruptly from the river, crowned by the remains of the old castle, -which deviate remarkably from the vertical. A bridge of fine design -joins the upper to the lower town. - -~At Quatford~ a fortress was built by Ethelfleda, and subsequently a -college by the wife of Roger de Montgomery, from a romantic -remembrance of having first met her husband upon that spot. Slight -indications of a keep still remain upon a rock overlooking the Severn. -The church has the chancel arch and font of the Norman period, and the -remainder is Decorated work of the fourteenth century. - -The Forest of Morfe at one time covered the whole of this district. -Dudmaston Castle is passed immediately before Quatt is reached, and -then an undulating run eventually leads to - - -KIDDERMINSTER - -The name of the town means the 'minster on the brow of the hill.' From -the time of William the Conqueror down to _c._ 1135 it was a manor in -possession of the Crown. - -~The Church.~--This is dedicated to St. Mary, and is chiefly of the -Perpendicular period. It contains a number of ancient monuments, and -has recently undergone a restoration. The town is celebrated for its -manufacture of carpets; a peculiar property of the River Stour is -reputed to add to the brilliancy of the colouring. Dyeing, -worsted-spinning, together with iron manufactures, are carried on in -the town. - -On leaving Kidderminster the road lies almost due south to ~Stourport~, -a rather uninteresting town, possessing, however, an iron bridge over -the Severn. The church is of modern construction. - -~Ombersley~ is a village of uncommonly neat appearance, with many -timbered houses effectively rendered in black and white. The Court was -erected in the time of Queen Anne, and is the country residence of -Lord Sandys. The church in the village is new. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 8--WORCESTER.] - -WORCESTER - -is sheltered by the Malvern Hills on the south-west, and by other -picturesque eminences. A Roman road originally traversed the city, and -as early as the year 680 Worcester was surrounded by lofty walls and -fortifications, which, by existing records, appear to have compared -favourably with other towns. - -~The Cathedral.~--(_Open on weekdays 9.30 to 6, but closed at 5.30 -between October and March 31 [or dusk]. 6d. each charged for entering -the Choir, Lady Chapel, and other special portions._) When Mercia -became an independent kingdom a church was raised, and subsequently -another built by Oswald in the tenth century a little north-east of -the present building. Wulfstan found Oswald's church in ruins, the -handiwork of Hardicanute's soldiers. He began a new cathedral in 1084, -but two fires subsequently ruined it. Re-erected, it was reconsecrated -in 1218. The cathedral suffered but little at the Reformation, but -very much during the Civil War. It is not a grand building so far as -massiveness is concerned, but possesses a variety of styles which -harmonize in a remarkable degree, and a sense of unity pervades the -whole building. The tower is a beautiful specimen of Perpendicular -work, and has recently been thoroughly renovated. The chief objects of -interest in the interior are the stalls, with their miserere seats, -dating from 1397, formerly in Worcester Priory; the cloisters, -chapterhouse, and remarkable Norman crypt, with King John's tomb in -the choir. There are picturesque remains of the old Guesten Hall, the -refectory and dormitory. - -~The Edgar Tower~ stands near the entrance to the cathedral cloisters. -It was originally the entrance to Worcester Castle, but the monks -converted it into a monastery gateway. - -~The Guildhall~ dates from 1721, and is an impressive building, -containing some objects of interest from the battlefield of Worcester. - -~The Commandery.~--This is a hospital founded in 1085; the great -refectory and Guesten Hall, with beautiful roofs and stained glass, -should be seen. - -There are a number of old timbered houses remaining in the city, -especially in Friar Street, near the city gaol, and in Lich Street. In -the Corn Market is King Charles's House, built 1577, in which Charles -II. took refuge in 1651 after the Battle of Worcester. It has the -inscription, 'Fear God; honour the King,' over the doorway. In the -Trinity, not far off, is an interesting Elizabethan house with an open -gallery. The Royal Porcelain Works, founded in 1751, are in Severn -Street, near the cathedral. (_Open 9.30 to 12.30, 2.15 to 5. Admission -6d._) - - - [Map: LOOP 6 (PART OF SECOND PORTION). SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD. - _Continued from p. 230._ - _Continued on p: 241._] - -GREAT MALVERN - -Malvern is a watering-place, situated in a beautiful district on the -eastern slope of the hills of the same name, and is much frequented by -reason of its fine air, its healthy surroundings, and its mineral -springs. A Benedictine priory was founded here shortly after the -Conquest, and one of the buildings, the ~Abbey Gateway~, dating from -1083, still remains. - -~The Church~ is of Norman work, with Perpendicular additions, dating -from the time of Henry VII.; it originally formed the Priory Church, -and was purchased by the inhabitants at the Dissolution, and made -parochial. The recumbent effigies in it are of considerable interest. - -Between Malvern and Ledbury lie the Malvern Hills; in crossing them -one has to negotiate a hill of 1 in 11. One is reminded of Touraine in -the quantities of mistletoe growing on the trees as the quaint old -town of Ledbury is neared. - - - [Map: LOOP 6 (LAST PORTION). LEDBURY TO HEREFORD. - _Continued from p. 239._] - -LEDBURY - -The main street is full of charm in its possession of several old -houses and a market-house standing on chestnut pillars. The upper -portion has been much restored, but the wooden supports are those of -the building believed to have been put up by John Abell in Elizabethan -times. - -The most notable feature of the church is the detached Early English -tower, now crowned with a modern spire. Of the original Norman church -the western doorway remains in the Perpendicular nave. Besides the -tombs of the Biddulphs the stained glass in the north chapel should be -examined. These windows are of the Decorated period, and the chapel is -dedicated to the local St. Catherine, who lived at the beginning of -the fourteenth century. During the Civil War there was a hot fight in -Ledbury in the year 1645 between Prince Rupert and a body of -Roundheads. Marks of bullets can be seen on the church doors and -elsewhere in the town. - -(_For_ ~Hereford~, _see p. 176_.) - - - - -LOOP No. 7 - -GLOUCESTER TO BATH, MALMESBURY, EVESHAM, TEWKESBURY, AND GLOUCESTER, -153 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Gloucester= to Stroud 121/4 - =Stroud= to Nailsworth 41/4 - =Nailsworth= to Old Sodbury 131/4 - =Old Sodbury= to Bath 11 - =Bath= to Chippenham 13 - =Chippenham= to Malmesbury 10 - =Malmesbury= to Minety 71/4 - =Minety= to Cricklade 43/4 - =Cricklade= to Highworth 71/2 - =Highworth= to Lechlade 41/2 - =Lechlade= to Burford 83/4 - =Burford= to Shipton-under-Wychwood 41/4 - =Shipton= to Chipping Norton 63/4 - =Chipping Norton= to Moreton-in-the-Marsh 8 - =Moreton= to Broadway 81/2 - =Broadway= to Evesham 53/4 - =Evesham= to Tewkesbury 131/4 - =Tewkesbury= to Gloucester 10 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Gloucester to Nailsworth.=--The road is fairly level, with a good -surface. - -=Nailsworth to Bath.=--The road climbs for the first 2 miles (1 in -15), and then is undulating along a ridge of downs until about 3 miles -from Bath, where the long descent is 1 in 15. - -=Bath to Highworth.=--An excellent road, with a steep hill soon after -Cricklade (1 in 12), and an abrupt descent after Highworth (1 in 12). - -The road becomes hilly near =Chipping Norton=, with a very stiff -descent at Fish Hill (1 in 11), after which the road is excellent all -the way to =Tewkesbury= and =Gloucester=. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Painswick.=--Exceptionally picturesque little Cotswold town. Fine -church and churchyard, with clipped yews; Painswick Court, a fine old -Tudor house near the church. - -=Stroud.=--A small town with cloth manufactures. Town Hall of -fifteenth century; church modern, except tower. - -=Nailsworth.=--A cloth manufacturing place scattered in the valley -south of Stroud. - -=Bath.=--The famous Georgian watering-place. A large stone town. Roman -baths in splendid preservation; the Abbey Church, Perpendicular; -Pulteney Bridge lined with shops; good eighteenth-century houses. - -=Bradford-on-Avon.=--An old village with a famous Saxon church. (On a -short loop from Bath. See Map.) - -=Box.=--A small village near long tunnel on G.W.R. Church of various -periods. - -=Corsham= (_just off the road to the right_).--An old village with -interesting Norman church. Corsham Court, partially Elizabethan house, -the seat of Lord Methuen. - -=Chippenham.=--Old town on Avon with manufactures. Church spoiled by -restoration; Maud Heath's Causeway. - -=Malmesbury.=--Picturesque old town on the Avon. Abbey Church -Trans-Norman; tower of old parish church; Elizabethan houses; fine -market cross; old almshouses. - -=Cricklade.=--A pleasant little town on the uppermost windings of the -Thames. St. Sampson's Church, with fine Perpendicular tower; St. -Mary's, Norman; early crosses in both churchyards. - -=Lechlade.=--Another little town on the Thames. Old bridge; -Perpendicular church. - -=Shipton-under-Wychwood.=--Village with a fine church, close to -Wychwood Forest. - -=Chipping Norton.=--Highest town in Oxfordshire; picturesque street. - -=Moreton-in-the-Marsh.=--A pleasant little market town. - -=Bourton-on-the-Hill.=--A very picturesque Cotswold village. - -=Broadway.=--A beautifully-situated and strikingly attractive Cotswold -village. Many old houses, including manor-house of Abbots of Pershore -Abbey. Old church 1 mile from village, interesting. - -=Evesham.=--A small town on Avon; picturesque. Booth Hall, Bell Tower, -and various remains of the extensive abbey. Churches of (1) St. -Lawrence, not very interesting; (2) All Saints, Early English and -later. Battle fought in 1265. - -=Tewkesbury.=--Very picturesque old town on Avon and Severn. Abbey -Church, splendid Norman; many old timber-framed houses. Battle of -Tewkesbury, 1471. - -=Deerhurst Priory= (_off road to west_).--Pre-Norman buildings lately -well restored. - - - [Map: LOOP 7. GLOUCESTER TO BATH.] - - [Map: LOOP 7. GLOUCESTER TO BATH AND EVESHAM.] - -The extensive loop described briefly in this chapter takes one to many -interesting towns in Gloucestershire and the neighbouring counties, -and as there is much to see, it is advisable to break the journey at -Bath, and possibly again at Broadway or Evesham, in order not to be -obliged to hurry through beautiful scenery and romantic towns. - -Although the level road from Gloucester to Stroud by Hardwicke is to -be recommended to those who would avoid a long, stiff climb, the way -through the Cotswolds is so much more interesting and so vastly more -picturesque that it should by all means be taken if the hill is of no -consequence. - -The easiest ascent of the face of the Cotswolds is by the road through -the village of Brookthorpe, descending into the Painswick valley near -the secluded and quite typical Cotswold hamlet of Pitchcombe. - -A still more beautiful road goes through Sneedham's Green, near Upton -St. Leonards, and winds up a long steady ascent among beeches. This -road is well engineered, and the views from it, first over the Vale -of Severn and then into the Painswick and Sheepscombe valleys, are -full of exquisite charm at all times of the year. - - -PAINSWICK - -is one of those little stone towns with that peculiarly foreign -flavour so frequently experienced in the Cotswolds. Perched on a steep -hill-side and dominated by the tall tower and spire of its stately -church, the place is the centre of the life of a lovely valley. Every -other house in the town is a picture by itself, and when grouped with -others and backed by the emeralds and blues of the opposite side of -the valley, the stranger can hardly be prevented from exclaiming aloud -as each corner brings some new composition before him. - -In the centre of the town stands the fine church, with a unique -churchyard, wherein a wonderful array of richly carved altar-tombs of -delicate classic design are scattered in picturesque irregularity -under the sombre shade of rows of closely trimmed yews. The stems of -these trees are kept clear of twigs and branches, and the masses of -green are shaped into great round-topped cylindrical forms. Just below -the church, beyond a group of magnificent elms, stands Painswick -Court, a stone, many-gabled house of such reposeful dignity that one -seems to find in it as nearly as possible the ideal English -manor-house of modest proportions. The title 'Court' came to the -house, not in connection with the manor, but through a visit paid to -it by Charles I. in 1643. The King slept in the house, and issued a -proclamation 'given at our Court at Paynewicke.' - -Whether one decides to go through Painswick or Pitchcombe, or even if -one keeps below the hills, all the roads meet at - - -STROUD - -This is a hilly town abounding in very steep streets, and possessing, -as all Cotswold towns do, a number of good old stone houses of the -sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries. It is, nevertheless, -a place without much appeal to the passing motorist, for the church -has been rebuilt in recent times, with the exception of the tower, -which is Early English. The Town Hall, formerly the market-house, was -built in the fifteenth century by John Throckmorton of Lypiatt. - -Stroud still maintains its woollen industry, and thousands of people -are employed in the mills in the town and in the valley to the east. - -Leaving Stroud for Bath, one ascends the valley towards ~Nailsworth~, a -busy locality, where the weaving of broadcloth is the chief industry. -There are also flock factories and workshops where beech--'the weed of -the oolite'--is used in making beds, gunstocks, and umbrella-sticks. - -A little beyond Nailsworth the road comes out on the ridge of -wind-swept hills, and continues a slightly undulating course -southwards to Bath, a distance of over twenty miles, without a village -and scarcely a hamlet on the whole journey. There are wide views in -both directions, and some grand panoramas across the Severn. - -After dropping down from the level of the downs, one turns to the -right and enters the ancient city of - - -BATH - -This wealthy, picturesque, and still popular watering-place, is -described at some length in another volume of this series--the -Southern Section of England--and it must therefore be dealt with in -the briefest fashion here. The thermal springs attracted the Romans to -the spot, and of their city _Aquae Solis_ there are probably very -considerable remains beneath the present city. ~The Baths~ themselves -have been excavated, and several feet below the street-level one can -now see the Roman tanks filled, as they were some sixteen centuries -ago, with the steaming waters which still bring many ailing folk to -the town. Besides the baths there is the ~Abbey Church~, a magnificent -example of late Perpendicular work, crowded with memorials to -distinguished visitors and residents of Bath, whose virtues and -achievements are not overlooked on the marble tablets. - -[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 16--BATH.] - -~Pulteney Bridge~, like the Ponte Vecchio, is lined with shops, but the -famous bridge at Florence quite eclipses this structure of a much -later and less artistic age. In walking through the streets of Bath -one cannot fail to be struck by several of the Georgian facades, whose -dignity and classic perfection reflect the formal manners of the -latter part of the eighteenth century, when Beau Nash drew admiring -and envious eyes upon his elaborately-attired person as he passed -along the stone-built streets of the great centre of smart society -when George was King. - - * * * * * - -From Bath to Chippenham the road goes through Batheaston, and keeping -to the north side of the railway for a couple of miles, passes under -it to reach the village of ~Box~, which has given its name to one of the -longest tunnels on the Great Western Railway. It is one and -three-quarter miles in length, and cost more than half a million -pounds to build. Box village has a church belonging to the three great -periods of Gothic, with a Perpendicular tower. - -Going to the left in the village, the road to Chippenham rises from -the valley of the By Brook, crosses the ridge of oolite and fuller's -earth pierced by the famous tunnel, and drops down to - - -CORSHAM - -The little town lies chiefly to the right, towards the railway and -Corsham Court, Lord Methuen's stately Elizabethan house. It is quite -desirable to run through the place, returning to the Chippenham road -by the road that skirts the park, north of the church. There are some -old houses in the street, and among them one dating back as far as the -fifteenth century. Corsham Court contains a magnificent collection of -paintings, mostly brought here by Sir Paul Methuen, who was at one -time Ambassador to Madrid, and died in 1757. - -The beautiful cruciform church was shorn of its central tower during -the restoration by Street, who built a new tower and spire in a rather -unusual position south of the south transept. The Norman nave and a -north door of the same period are the earliest portions of the -building, and the Methuen Chapel, built in 1879, is the most recent. - -From Corsham the road falls continuously to - - -CHIPPENHAM, - -an old manufacturing town on the Avon. As its name suggests, it has -been a market town from a very remote age. It was a place of -importance in Saxon times, and one or two events are recorded as -happening there before the year 878, when the Danes took the place and -made it their headquarters, while, with fire and sword, they spread -ruin and desolation over the neighbourhood. After Alfred reappeared -from his hiding-place in marsh-bordered Athelney to the south-west, -and gained his famous victory over the marauding Danes at Ethandune, -he regained possession of Chippenham, and gave it to his daughter -AElfrith for life. For objects to connect the Chippenham of to-day with -these thrilling times of half-civilized Britain one looks in vain, for -the church, the most hopeful link, reveals no Saxon work, and what is -Norman has been so cruelly handled that its interest has vanished. -The richly-carved Norman chancel arch, dating from about half a -century after the Conquest, has been recut and removed to the north -side of the chancel. - -The modern church of St. Paul was built in 1853 by Sir Gilbert Scott. -A new Town Hall belongs to this period, but the old one is still -standing. - - -MAUD HEATH'S CAUSEWAY - -A very remarkable feature of Chippenham is a paved track some four and -a half miles in length, and still bearing curious inscriptions, -leading northeastwards from the town to the ridge of Bremhill Wick. -This path owes its existence to a bequest made by a certain Maud -Heath, who lived as long ago as the fifteenth century, and the cost of -the maintenance of the path at the present day is defrayed by the -property she bequeathed for the purpose. Tradition says that Maud -Heath was a market-woman of Langley Burrell, a village on the -causeway; and if this is correct one imagines that the good dame left -her money to save those that came after her the toil and discomfort of -trudging with a heavy basket in the deep mire of the heavy clay of the -valley. On the ridge where the path terminates stands a column -bearing a statue of the woman, put up in 1838 by the Lord Lansdowne of -that time--Bowood, the ancestral home of the Lansdownes, from which -Rembrandt's 'Mill' has lately been sold and removed to America, being -only two miles distant. - -An undulating road goes almost due north to Malmesbury, passing -through the hamlet of ~Corston~, which has a small church with a curious -Perpendicular bell-turret at the west end. - - -MALMESBURY - -This interesting and historic town is comparatively unknown to the -ordinary tourist. Its situation on a spur of raised ground, with two -branches of the Avon almost surrounding it with a natural moat, made -the place of importance in early days, when such things were eagerly -sought after. One is not surprised, therefore, to find that the site -was a stronghold of the British, known as _Caer Bladon_, and in Saxon -times was a frontier town of Wessex. According to Murray, the present -name is derived from Maidulph or Maldulph, an Irish missionary who, -about the beginning of the seventh century, established a hermitage -under the protecting proximity of the castle, and there began -educational work among the semi-barbarous Saxons. One of his scholars -was the learned Ealdhelm, who became the first abbot of the monastery -of Malmesbury, founded in 680. Of the great religious house which -eventually grew up at Malmesbury only the church remains, now, alas! -sadly diminished and curtailed. Both the central and the western -towers collapsed somewhere about the sixteenth century, crushing the -adjoining parts of the nave and chancel in their fall. The existing -church is therefore only a portion of the nave of the magnificent -abbey church which dominated the little town in pre-Reformation times. -The arcades are Transitional Norman with massive cylindrical pillars, -but above the arches rises a Decorated clerestory, supporting a richly -vaulted roof of the same period. If it had not been for Master Humpe, -whom Leland describes as 'an exceeding riche Clothiar,' there would -quite possibly have been nothing left at all of the abbey church after -the suppression of the monasteries; but this worthy man bought the -buildings from the Crown and presented the church to the parish. The -old parish church was utilized as a town hall, but nothing remains of -that structure except the tower, with a spire. - -The beautiful Elizabethan house to the north-east of the abbey church -is built on a portion of the monastic buildings in which Master Humpe -had set up his looms. The famous historian, William of Malmesbury, who -lived in the twelfth century, was librarian and precentor of the -abbey. Before leaving the town the lovely Perpendicular market cross -should be seen, and also the almshouses near St. John's Bridge. - - * * * * * - -Leaving Malmesbury by the Cirencester road, one soon goes to the right -for Cricklade, skirting Charlton Park, with its dignified Jacobean -house built by Sir Thomas Knyvet, with a west front designed, it is -said, by Inigo Jones. It is the seat of the Earls of Suffolk and -Berkshire. The present holder of the title was extra A.D.C. to Lord -Curzon of Kedleston, and married, in 1904, a sister of the late Lady -Curzon. The interior of the house has been modernized, but it contains -a remarkably fine collection of old masters. - - -CRICKLADE - -This prettily-situated little town is on the Thames, about ten miles -from Thames Head, close to the Foss Way, St. Sampson's Church, with -its pinnacled tower, rising picturesquely over the roofs half hidden -among trees. It is a cruciform building, and the interior of the -tower, which is enriched with armorial shields, contains a clock -possessing no face on the exterior! In the churchyard there is a fine -cross with niches in the head, and another is to be found in the -churchyard of the little St. Mary's. Cricklade is one of those really -ancient places whose beginnings are far off in British times, the -origin of the name being the two British words _cerrig_ (stone) and -_lad_ (ford). - -From Cricklade one goes south-west as straight as an arrow for about -four miles on the Roman Ermine Way leading from Cirencester -(_Corinium_) to Speen (_Spinae_), near Newbury. Then one goes to the -left to ~Highworth~, where the route turns due north and meets the -Thames again at - - -LECHLADE - -The Lech and the Coln meet the Thames at the town, and the united -streams suddenly assume an air of dignity, having reached a width of -some 20 yards and a depth sufficient for vessels of 80 tons. Across -the 'stripling Thames' there stands the first stone bridge, whose core -is the medieval structure built somewhere about the beginning of the -thirteenth century, or possibly earlier, in the days when -bridge-building was regarded as a pious enterprise. In its prosperous -days Lechlade sent great quantities of cheese down the river to -London. The church is mainly Perpendicular, dating, according to -Bigland, from about 1470. - -Continuing northwards, the road climbs among the eastern slopes of the -Cotswolds, and reaches picturesque old ~Burford~ (see p. 276). The next -place to the north is - - -SHIPTON-UNDER-WYCHWOOD, - -an interesting and attractive old village on the east side of Wychwood -Forest. The spacious church is chiefly an Early English building, with -alterations in Perpendicular times, and no indications at all of -Decorated work. The spire, like that of Witney, is Early English, -while the font and stone pulpit are Perpendicular. Adding immensely to -the picturesqueness of the church, there is on the east side a group -of timeworn buildings of ecclesiastical origin dating back to the time -when Shipton was a prebend of Salisbury Cathedral. One should also -notice the sixteenth-century work of the Crown Inn, standing near the -centre of the village. - -Going on towards Chipping Norton, one comes after two miles to some -tumuli, called Lyneham Barrows, and not far beyond these there is a -standing stone about 6 feet high. - - -CHIPPING NORTON, - -another of the towns with the distinctive term revealing an old-time -importance as a market, is the highest town in Oxfordshire, being -nearly 700 feet above the sea. The place consists chiefly of one long -and picturesque street, and what there is to tell of its history is -almost exclusively in relation to its cloth manufactures, its -breweries, or its glove factories. The conspicuous church is mainly -Decorated and Perpendicular, with the tower above the obviously Early -English work, rebuilt in 1825. - -There is a story of Bishop Juxon having been the cause of a complaint -to Cromwell because once, when the prelate was hunting, the hare, -closely followed by the hounds, ran through the churchyard. The -Protector's reply, however, took the form of a question: 'Do you think -the Bishop prevailed on the hare to run through the churchyard?' - -Nothing whatever is left of the castle formerly standing to the east -of the church, but the almshouses, built in 1640, still survive. - -Chipping Norton is left by the road to Evesham, and a run of eight -miles brings one into the long, wide street of ~Moreton-in-the-Marsh~, a -little market town without any exceptional features needing special -reference here. The next place, however, is ~Bourton-on-the-Hill~, a -lovely village, with its old cottages perched either above or below -the steeply ascending road. Of the gardens gaily decked with flowers -one could write many pages; but not far off is ~Broadway~, one of those -delightful villages of the always lovely Cotswolds, full of pleasing -stone architecture, in spite of the evil tendencies which have marred, -if not destroyed, the beauty of so many pleasant old-world haunts. At -the picturesque Lygon Arms, at the lower end of the village, Charles -I. is said to have stayed on more than one occasion, and near it is a -house called the 'Abbot's Grange,' where Mr. Millet, the artist, has -his studio. This was the manor-house of the Abbots of Pershore, a -Benedictine abbey possessing much property at Broadway. There is a -large hall open to the roof, a solar, and a small chapel chiefly -dating from Decorated times. The old church of Broadway, dedicated to -St. Eadburgh, is three-quarters of a mile away, in the Snowshill -Valley. It contains a plain Norman font, a painted wooden pulpit of -the fourteenth century, and some good brasses. From the tower, built -in 1797, above the village one can see a wide panoramic view over the -beautiful rounded hills, broken up by belts of beech and larch. - -If there is no need to economize time, it would certainly be unwise to -pass so near the picturesque old town of ~Chipping Camden~ without -having a peep at its fine market hall, its church, and beautiful array -of stone-built houses. After this the hills are left behind, and -Evesham, on the river which flows past Shakespeare's birthplace, is -reached. - - -EVESHAM - -This picturesque little town owed its importance to the great -Benedictine abbey, which up to the Dissolution had, according to -Grose, such a great assemblage of religious buildings that its equal -was not to be found out of Oxford and Cambridge. Of these, however, -there remain to-day only the beautiful Perpendicular bell-tower, the -almonry, the mutilated Norman gatehouse, and the archway leading to -the chapter-house, now the entrance to allotments. Many houses in the -town are built of stones from the destroyed abbey. The Booth Hall, in -the market-place, is a charming old building, and in the High Street -and in Bridge Street there are many fine old houses. - -The two churches of Evesham stand in one churchyard, and both were -founded by the monks of the abbey as secular chapels for the town. The -Church of St. Lawrence was practically rebuilt a century ago, but All -Saints, which existed in 1223, has an Early English north aisle and -chancel, and examples of the succeeding periods in the other parts of -the building. The Battle of Evesham was fought on August 4, 1265, -rather less than a mile from the town, on high ground to the north, -marked by an obelisk. Simon de Montfort, who held Henry III. prisoner, -was crushingly defeated by Prince Edward, and both he and his son -Henry were killed, their bodies being buried in Evesham Abbey Church -before the high-altar. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 10--TEWKESBURY.] - -TEWKESBURY - -is the last place passed through on this extensive loop, and going in -this direction one finds the best wine reserved to the last, for this -exceptionally picturesque old town, with its solemn abbey church, -surrounded by tall ancient trees, and the sweet green meadows, where -Severn and Avon are only separated by a belt of level greensward, is -one of those places that have a way of fixing themselves in the -memory, even if one has never read Miss Mulock's 'John Halifax, -Gentleman.' If one has done so, and remembers the descriptions of -'Norton Bury,' the old town will never be forgotten. One can hardly -think of Tewkesbury without the dominating presence of its great -Norman abbey church, but even without it the long street contains so -many delightful sixteenth-century houses, each possessing individual -charms, that the town would still make an irresistible appeal to all -for whom the architecture of the vanished centuries has some message. - -The founder of the present abbey was Robert FitzHamon, who was related -to William the Conqueror, and received the Honour of Gloucester from -Rufus. Having decided to rebuild the modest Saxon abbey, FitzHamon -soon removed all traces of the early buildings when, in 1102, the work -was begun. Five years later the founder died of a wound received -during a siege of the impregnable castle of Falaise in Normandy, and -was buried in the chapter-house. The consecration took place in 1123, -and in 1178 a fire occurred, which was fortunately restricted to the -conventual buildings. - -Gilbert de Clare, one of the barons who had signed Magna Charta, was -buried in the abbey, and after him, for two and a half centuries, -every one of his successors was laid to rest in the same building. - -When Tewkesbury Abbey was suppressed, the nave, which had always been -secular, continued to be a possession of the town, and the other -portions of the great fabric were bought from the Crown for the sum of -L453. - -It is often stated that the great Norman tower is the most perfect in -this country, but the people of St. Albans would no doubt question -this claim. The tall wooden spire, covered with lead, fell during -service on Easter Sunday in 1559, and was never replaced. Inside the -church one sees little that is not pure Norman, and for solemnity and -vast, imposing dignity it would be difficult to find any building able -to overshadow Tewkesbury. It may be compared with Durham, Selby, and -Christchurch. The west end has a wonderfully fine recessed window of -immense proportions. In 1661 the window was blown in during a gale, -and was replaced in 1686. Surely those who were attached to the -Commonwealth must have thought there was something significant in this -parallel to the rending of the veil of the Temple, for the seventeenth -century was a superstitious age. - -The Battle of Tewkesbury, one of the decisive encounters of the Wars -of the Roses, was fought, in 1471, on the south side of the town (its -position is shown in the accompanying plan). Edward IV. crushingly -defeated the Lancastrians under Edward, the youthful Prince of Wales, -whose army fought with Tewkesbury in their rear. The defeated army -took refuge in the town, and the slaughter continued in the abbey -church in hideous fashion, until the abbot, bearing in his hands the -consecrated elements, brought the fighting to a close. Prince Edward, -who had been struck in the mouth by the gauntleted hand of the King, -was killed in a house in Church Street. - -With the rooks cawing high overhead in the tree-tops, and a sweet -solemnity pervading the whole abbey precincts, it is almost impossible -to picture the ghastly scene of civil war which, four and a half -centuries ago, soaked the meadows in human blood and turned the noble -church into a shambles. For a month no services were held in the -building while every blood-stain was removed. - -On the way back to Gloucester one could make a very profitable detour -of a few miles to Deerhurst Priory, a highly interesting pre-Norman -building, until recently used as part of a farm, but lately restored -in a most efficient manner. - - - - -SECTION X - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -GLOUCESTER TO OXFORD, 50 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Gloucester= to Cheltenham 83/4 - =Cheltenham= to Andoversford 6 - =Andoversford= to Northleach 7 - =Northleach= to Burford 9 - =Burford= to Witney 71/2 - =Witney= to Eynsham 53/4 - =Eynsham= to Oxford 6 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Gloucester to Cheltenham.=--Level; excellent surface. - -There are no hills of any importance all the way to Oxford, but the -surface is rather rough between =Andoversford= and =Burford=. The road -falls nearly all the way from =Northleach to Oxford=. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Cheltenham.=--A watering-place dating from the eighteenth century. -Spa; promenades; St. Mary's Church, Decorated. - -=Northleach.=--Picturesque Cotswold village-town. Perpendicular -church, with famous brasses of wool-merchants and remarkably fine -porch. - -=Burford.=--A very interesting and picturesque old town; several old -houses; market hall; church, large and irregular, Norman, Early -English, and Perpendicular; Priory ruins. - -=Asthall Barrow.=--A prominent prehistoric mound. - -=Witney.=--A pleasant and unusually charming old town, famous for -blankets. Church very picturesque, chiefly Early English; old market -house. - -=Eynsham.=--A quaint old village with old market house, church, and -picturesque houses. Red Lion Inn with quaint sign. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 10. GLOUCESTER TO OXFORD.] - -At ~Wotton St. Mary~, Churchdown Hill is a prominent feature on the -right. Some picturesque old cottages stand beside the road, while the -general aspect of the country is pastoral, broken up by large -orchards, a delightful feature of the county. The road rises slightly -as Cheltenham is approached. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 11--CHELTENHAM.] - -CHELTENHAM - -Cheltenham stands close to the steep, north-west face of the Cotswold -Hills, and until the springs were discovered in 1716 it was but a -struggling hamlet. It is now an aggregation of imposing squares, -crescents, promenades, and villas, interspersed with beautiful parks. -As may be expected, there are few antiquities to be found in a town -of such mushroom growth, the only exception being the ~Parish Church -of St. Mary~, standing just off the High Street. The prevailing style -of the building is early Decorated, and it contains a piscina believed -to be one of the largest and most perfect in England. To those -interested in modern architecture the ~Church of St. Stephen~ may be -mentioned, but ~All Saints'~, the parish church of Pittville, is the -best modern expression of architectural ideals in Cheltenham, although -the ~Roman Catholic Church of St. Gregory~ is a formidable rival. The -public buildings are on a level with the importance of the town. The -merits and uses of the chalybeate and other waters are easily -discovered locally, and no one who remembers the oft-repeated epitaph -of the individual who with three daughters 'died from drinking the -Cheltenham waters' should be prejudiced against their good properties, -which for certain ailments are not to be despised. Cheltenham is a -famous educational centre for girls, and Gloucestershire, as a whole, -has been in the van in educational matters from quite early times. - -Cheltenham is the 'Coltham' in 'John Halifax, Gentleman,' where John -and Phineas saw Mrs. Siddons act. - - * * * * * - -The road to Oxford from Cheltenham crosses the beautiful Cotswolds, -climbing up to 800 feet at the Puesdown Inn. From this point there are -wide expanses visible in nearly every direction; but such views do -not give one the real charm of the Cotswolds. To become intimate with -the exquisite valleys and secluded upland villages, one must be in a -mood to potter and loiter, and be content to desert the car at -intervals in order to plunge into some beautiful beech-wood, falling -steeply down a declivity, and revealing glimpses between the tall -smooth trunks of the Vale of Severn, or some sleepy hollow wherein a -silver-grey village nestles. The beautiful architecture of the -Cotswolds, in conjunction with its lovely scenery, is a joy to all who -know these oolite hills. Cottages, farms, mills, and manor-houses, all -with steep roofs of grey stone like the walls, stately gables, -mullioned windows, and picturesque chimneys, are all one can desire. - -Even if there is no time to wander from the direct road, one cannot -avoid seeing an exceedingly pleasing little Cotswold town. This is - - -NORTHLEACH, - -a place of some importance when the woollen industry of these hills -was flourishing. There is a subtle charm in the greyness of the old -houses, relieved by the dark green of yew and the lighter tones of -deciduous trees and grass banks here and there. The quaint little -shops add other touches of colour, and wherever one turns there are -pictures of simple Cotswold life, not much altered by the rapid -changes of recent years. The old fellow standing meditatively by the -churchyard gate may talk of the great changes since his youth, when -the cloth industry had not ebbed away from the hills, but to outward -appearances Northleach is, one suspects, little altered since the days -of our great-grandparents, if, indeed, anything has materially changed -the town since the beautiful Perpendicular church was put up. The date -of its building was about the year 1489, when Cotswold wool was one of -the chief industries of England. One may admire the embattled spire -and the graceful delicacy of the whole building, but it is by its -porch that one remembers Northleach Church. It is illustrated here; -but, good as the drawing is, it does not do justice to the wonderful -beauty of that noble piece of Perpendicular craftsmanship surmounted -by its parvise. - -On the floor of the nave are a series of brasses to the memory of some -of the most successful of the wool-merchants of the town. They belong -to the fifteenth century, and are exceptionally fine examples of -brasses of the period, giving the details of costume with the greatest -faithfulness. It is pleasant to find that the wealthy men of the -Cotswold wool industry seem to have devoted their surplus riches to -such public works as schools, almshouses, and churches. - -At Northleach the Roman Foss Way is crossed coming from Cirencester in -a north-easterly direction. - -A few miles beyond Northleach, ~Sherborne Park~, the residence of Lord -Sherborne, is passed on the left. It is a dignified house, situated in -open country, many portions of which are well wooded. - -From this point all the way to Witney the road falls steadily, with -the shallow, but always pleasing, valley of the Windrush just below on -the left. This pretty stream coming out of the heart of the Cotswolds -is one of the chief feeders of the Thames, which it meets a dozen -miles above Oxford. Actually on the road there are no villages except -Little Minster between Northleach and Witney, but just below the -highway, on the banks of the little river, there are several. The -first three--Windrush and Great and Little Barrington--are in -Gloucestershire, and the rest are in Oxfordshire. It is tempting to -describe all these places, but one must be content with pointing out -the particular charm of - - -BURFORD, - -one of the most delightful of the old-world towns of the county. There -is a town hall, probably of the fifteenth century, and adjoining it -are some of the best of the old houses in the town. Close to the -stream stands the splendid cruciform church, with its tower and west -door dating back to the Norman period. In Early English times nearly -the whole building appears to have been changed into the Gothic style, -and another transformation took place in the fifteenth century, when -the Perpendicular phase had set in. Owing to the Sylvester aisle and -several chapels, the church is of curious shape, and this helps to -give that indescribable atmosphere of pre-Reformation days entirely -vanished from so many old churches in this country. - -Both the school and the almshouses are old foundations, and the -Priory, now a partial ruin, although preserving no ecclesiastical -remains, is a picturesque Elizabethan building to some extent rebuilt -in 1808. - -A mile or two beyond Burford one passes Asthall Barrow on the -right-hand side of the road, and only a few yards away across a field. -It is a prehistoric mound of earth, now kept in position by a circular -retaining wall of stone, thus preventing degradation. The trees -surmounting it form a prominent landmark. About three miles farther on -is the fine old manor-house of ~Minster Lovell~, about a mile to the -left, on the Windrush. - - -WITNEY - -Soon after turning to the right the road enters the main street of -picturesque old Witney at right angles. Extending away some distance -to the right is the pleasant elongated belt of green, giving much -charm and distinction to the place, and at the end of the grassy -perspective, rising in stately dignity from old trees, appears the -tower and spire of the cruciform church. This is one of those -peculiarly fascinating buildings one finds it hard to leave. It is -mainly an Early English church, but there are features of other -periods, and among them a Decorated window on the north side, which is -the finest in the whole county. The spire is an Early English -masterpiece. In the middle of the little town stands the quaint Butter -Cross, dated 1683. On the west side of the green is the Grammar School -(1663), with an avenue of elms. - -The blanket industry is still in existence, for in spite of modern -competition the little place holds its own on account of some -particular benefit the wool derives from the water of the -neighbourhood. - - -EYNSHAM - -is the last village passed on the way to Oxford. It is a sleepy and -picturesque little place with a small market hall, the shaft of a -fifteenth-century cross, and an inn-sign of the drollest order. This -sign hangs outside the Red Lion, and the King of Beasts is painted on -one side, but the draughtsman had difficulty in accommodating the -tail, and he solved it by the original plan of painting the caudal -appendage on the opposite face of the sign! - -Just below Eynsham the road crosses the Thames at Swinford Bridge, -where the beautiful hanging woods of Wytham Hill are on the left, and -a couple of miles farther on the spires and towers of Oxford are in -sight. - - [Illustration: THE CHURCH PORCH AT NORTHLEACH. - A rare example of the stateliness of Perpendicular architecture in - a village church.] - - - - -LOOP No. 8 - -OXFORD TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON, COVENTRY, BANBURY, AND OXFORD, 110 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Oxford= to Woodstock 8 - =Woodstock= to Enstone 63/4 - =Enstone= to Long Compton 8 - =Long Compton= to Shipstone-on-Stour 53/4 - =Shipstone-on-Stour= to Stratford-on-Avon 101/2 - =Stratford-on-Avon= to Leamington 101/2 - =Leamington= to Warwick 21/4 - =Warwick= to Kenilworth 43/4 - =Kenilworth= to Coventry 53/4 - =Coventry= to Princethorpe 7 - =Princethorpe= to Southam 6 - =Southam= to Fenny Compton 51/2 - =Fenny Compton= to Banbury 81/4 - =Banbury= to Deddington 6 - =Deddington= to Sturdy's Castle Inn 73/4 - =Sturdy's Castle Inn= to Kidlington 2 - =Kidlington= to Oxford, Carfax 51/4 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -=Oxford to Stratford.=--Splendid surface; steep drop down to Long -Compton. - -=Stratford to Coventry.=--Surface on the whole excellent; not so good -near Stratford. - -=Coventry to Banbury.=--An excellent road, but a few rather steep -hills are encountered. - -=Banbury to Oxford.=--Excellent. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Woodstock.=--A little town, with a church containing several styles -of architecture; Blenheim, the residence of the Dukes of Marlborough; -the Column of Victory. - -=Long Compton.=--The Rollright Stones, a prehistoric circle of -importance. - -=Stratford-on-Avon.=--Shakespeare's birthplace; the memorial; the -church and its interesting monuments; New Place, the residence of the -poet; the Grammar School; Guild Chapel; and Anne Hathaway's Cottage, 1 -mile west. - -=Warwick.=--A picturesque town, famous for its castle; St. Mary's -Church and the Beauchamp Chapel and monuments; Lord Leycester's -Hospital; the West Gate and various old houses. - -=Leamington.=--A beautiful spa; the Jephson Gardens. - -=Guy's Cliffe.=--An exquisitely-situated country house. - -=Kenilworth.=--A little town, containing half-timbered houses; the -ruins of the famous castle; the church, chiefly Decorated; the remains -of the Priory. - -=Coventry.=--A fairly large town; St. Michael's, an exceedingly fine -parish church; Holy Trinity Church; St. Mary's Hall, a fourteenth-century -guild-hall; St. John's Church; the Bablake Hospital; Peeping Tom; -Ford's Hospital. - -=Long Itchington.=--Interesting fourteenth-century church. - -=Southam.=--A town without much interest. - -=Banbury.=--A little Oxfordshire town, famed for its cross and its -cakes; but the cross is modern, and so is the church. - - - [Map: LOOP 8. OXFORD TO COVENTRY.] - -There are two main roads running to Woodstock from Oxford, lying -parallel to each other; the western one should be selected. It passes -through a well-wooded country, part of the valleys of the Thames and -Evenlode rivers. Upon reaching Woodstock, ~Blenheim Palace~ claims -attention, with the entrance to the park lying upon the left. The -house was built at the public expense in 1715 as a national -recognition of the services of the Duke of Marlborough. It was -designed by Vanbrugh, and is of a heavy Renaissance character. The -interior decorations and the treasures preserved in it are of an -exceedingly interesting nature. (_It is open to the public every day, -except Saturdays and Sundays, between 11 and 1, and the gardens from -11 to 2. Tickets 1s. each._) The park contains the site of the old -Manor-house of Woodstock, which is supposed to have stood upon the -foundations of a Roman villa; it was a royal residence of the Saxon -kings. Here Alfred the Great translated Boethius, and King Ethelred -published his code of laws. Woodstock was the scene of the courtship -of Henry II. and Rosamund Clifford, whose birthplace was Clifford -Castle (see p. 175). Queen Elizabeth was a prisoner for a time in the -old manor-house, and it endured a siege from the Parliamentarians, -finally disappearing in 1723. - - -WOODSTOCK - -This little town sprang into existence solely in consequence of the -proximity of the royal seat. ~The Church of St. Mary Magdalene~ is of -Norman date, but much restoration has taken place. The south aisle is -Early English, and contains part of a Norman doorway. The chancel and -north aisle are Decorated, while the west porch and west tower are -Perpendicular. There are many monuments of interest in the church. - -Soon after leaving Woodstock the Column of Victory is prominent on the -left, where the ancient course of the Akeman Street, coming from -Cirencester, is crossed, and shortly afterwards Grim's Dyke occurs, -one of the many Grim's Dykes that are found in England. - -Near ~Enstone~ is a cromlech, called the 'Hoarstone,' and soon -afterwards a turning to the left leads to - - -CHIPPING NORTON - -This is a quiet little town, devoted to the manufacture of woollen -goods, and especially horse-cloths. The 'Chipping' is derived from -the same root as 'Chepe,' a market. In the church the chief objects of -interest are some fourteenth-century brasses, which, however, suffered -very much in a restoration some forty years since, when they were -wrenched from their matrices and thrown into the parvise. Of the -castle which once stood here nothing remains. - -Between Chipping Norton and Long Compton, at Great Rollright, are the -well-known ~Rollright Stones~, consisting of a prehistoric circle of -standing stones and a cromlech. They are sixty in number, and lie -about 500 yards to the left of the main road. After passing the stiff -descent into Long Compton, a good surface is found to Shipstone-on-Stour, -although the road is second class; but beyond that town a first-class -road lies up the valley of the Stour to Stratford-on-Avon. At -Alderminster tram-lines commence, which reach to Stratford, and a -short distance beyond, Atherstone-on-Stour is passed, where formerly -stood a monastery of mendicant friars. The scenery, meanwhile, has -been gradually assuming the characteristics which distinguish the -beautiful county of Warwick--luxurious hedgerows, gently-flowing -streams, red loam in the fields contrasting with the varying shades -of green. The half-timbered houses and cottages introduce another -pleasant feature into the landscape. - - -STRATFORD-ON-AVON - -This far-famed country town on the banks of the Avon presents a -general appearance of prosperity, the well-built houses, wide streets, -and prevailing aspect of cleanliness giving this impression. -Everything in the town, however, lapses into insignificance in face of -the paramount interest attaching to the town as the birthplace of -Shakespeare. Whether the 'Bard of Avon' was nothing more than an -Elizabethan play-actor or the author of the plays now so widely -attributed to the great scholar and statesman, Francis Bacon, is a -question which now cools the spirit of devotion of many a pilgrim; but -however keen a Baconian may be the visitor to Stratford, he cannot -fail to appreciate the charm of the carefully-restored Elizabethan -houses associated with Shakespeare. - -~Shakespeare's Birthplace~ is in Henley Street, a half-timbered, -unpretentious house of two rooms and a kitchen on the ground-floor, -with the room overhead in which he was born. The adjoining cottage has -been converted into a museum, in which documents and relics bearing -in a direct or remote manner with the poet--and some, it must be -confessed, are very remote--are preserved. The birthplace was in -possession of the members of the family for two centuries after the -death of Shakespeare in 1616; in 1847 it was purchased by subscription -for L3,000 and carefully restored. (_Admission 1s.--6d. for the -birthroom and 6d. for the museum._) - -~The Town Hall~ is in the High Street; on the front is a statue of -Shakespeare, presented by Garrick. - -~New Place~ stood close by, but of the house occupied by the poet during -the last nineteen years of his life there is nothing left but the -site. In it lived Dr. Hall, who married Shakespeare's daughter -Susannah. The house was pulled down in 1702 by Sir John Clopton, and -the new building on its site, together with the famous mulberry-tree, -were destroyed by the Rev. Francis Gastrell in 1759, 'because he was -pestered by visitors'! In 1861 the site of New Place and its gardens -were purchased by public subscription. A Shakespeare Library and -Museum have been established there, _open daily except Saturday and -Sunday; admission 6d. On Saturday the Gardens are free_. - - [Illustration: STRATFORD-ON-AVON. - Holy Trinity Church contains the tomb of Shakespeare.] - -At the opposite corner, Chapel Lane, stands the ~Grammar School~, -founded in 1553, where the poet is reputed to have been educated. It -is a delightful old timber-framed house standing near the Guild -Chapel, a Perpendicular building which is conspicuous in the High -Street. - -~The Shakespeare Memorial Theatre~ occupies a pleasant position on the -banks of the Avon. The old theatre was demolished in 1872, and the -present building erected at a cost of L30,000. - -~The Parish Church~, of Early English and Perpendicular architecture, is -a fine cruciform building standing on the site of an early Saxon -monastery. In Edward III.'s reign John de Stratford rebuilt the south -aisle and erected a chantry for priests. In 1351 Ralph de Stratford -built a chapel for the latter, now known as the College. The beautiful -choir dates from the time of Dean Balshall (1465). Shakespeare's -monument is on the left side of the chancel; the door there formerly -led to the charnel-house, and the grave is near the monument under a -flat stone, upon which is the oft-quoted verse said to have been -written by Shakespeare. Between this spot and the north wall is buried -his widow, who died in 1623, while those of relatives lie near, such -as Susannah, the eldest daughter, and her husband, Dr. Hall, and -Thomas Nashe, who married Shakespeare's only granddaughter. -(_Admission to the church 6d._) - -~Anne Hathaway's Cottage~ is at Shottery, a mile west of Stratford, -divided since the poet's time into three tenements. The room where -Anne was born is shown. - -~Charlecote Park~ lies about four miles north-east of Stratford. It is -famous for its hall, erected in 1547 by Sir Thomas Lucy upon the -capital E plan, and was visited by Queen Elizabeth. Here also is the -reputed site of Shakespeare's deer-shooting escapades. - -The main road to Warwick lies through a beautifully-wooded country, -rich in pleasant views of hill and dale. Clopton Tower is on the left -shortly after leaving. - -The tower of Barford Church can be seen two miles off to the right of -the main road; it was rebuilt in the last century, except the tower, -which retains the marks of Cromwellian cannon-balls. - -~Sherbourne~ is near at hand. The church is modern, and of fine design. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 13--WARWICK.] - -WARWICK - -It has been asserted that the history of Warwick is the history of -England, and certain it is that the ancient town has been involved in -the majority of the great events which have helped to make the -national record. In those stirring events ~Warwick Castle~ has played no -mean part, and is still the glory of the town and county. It is -undoubtedly the most magnificent of the ancient feudal mansions still -used as a residence, and its grand position upon a crag overlooking -the Avon has accentuated its imposing grandeur in no mean degree. Its -chief features are Caesar's Tower and Guy's Tower, of the fourteenth -century, and the Gateway Tower in the centre. The residential -apartments and the Great Hall suffered in the fire of 1871, but have -been rebuilt. Both the castle and the contents teem with interest. -(_Open to visitors as a rule; no fixed fee. Tickets obtained at small -cottage opposite Castle Lodge, Castle Hill._) - -~St. Mary's Church~ is one of the most interesting ecclesiastical -buildings in the country. A Saxon church stood upon the site, and a -later building was made collegiate by Earl Roger de Newburgh. It was -granted to the town as a parish church at the Dissolution. The central -object of interest is the famous Beauchamp Chapel, 1443 to 1464, one -of the best examples extant of Perpendicular architecture bordering -upon the Tudor, and showing occasionally traces of incipient -Renaissance. Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, Regent of France, and -guardian of Edward VI., lies buried here, and his effigy in bronze, -the finest in existence of that nature, lies in the centre of the -chapel. Against the north wall is the magnificent monument of the -famous Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester--splendid in life and -sumptuous in death. Two small ante-chapels are seen--one is probably a -chantry. In the chancel lie Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and his -second Countess, both of whom died in 1370; their effigies of white -marble, with many 'weepers' round the pedestal, are of great interest. - -~Lord Leycester's Hospital.~--There are but few places in England where -such a picturesque and impressive grouping of old timbered houses may -be seen; antique gables and eaves, richly-carved beams and mysterious -recesses; overhanging stories and twisted chimneys, with an old -gateway and a church tower thrown in--it forms a gem of which any city -might be proud. The Hospital was originally a hall of the Guilds; in -1571 the Earl founded it for the reception of twelve poor men, who -still wear the bear and ragged staff as a cognizance. Many -half-timbered houses and quaint old-world nooks remain in Warwick to -delight the eye of the artist and the antiquary, especially near the -castle. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 14--LEAMINGTON.] - -LEAMINGTON - -A little over a mile separates Warwick from the Royal Leamington Spa, -a beautiful garden city, which has sprung into existence by reason of -the discovery of the efficacy possessed by the mineral waters in 1784. -Until that period it was a small village called Leamington Priors. The -chief springs are saline and sulphuretted saline. - -The ~Jephson Gardens~ are beautifully placed on the north bank of the -River Leam, and form one of the chief centres of attraction, and the -Royal Pump Room Gardens face the river on the other side of the -bridge. As might be expected from such a modern town, there are no -objects of antiquity to describe. Returning to Warwick, the road to -Guy's Cliff is taken, running due north, and the entrance-lodge occurs -in about a mile. A fine view of the house is obtained from this point -on looking up the avenue of majestic firs; it was built in 1822, -succeeding a small country mansion, and is in the possession of Lord -Algernon Percy. Situated upon a cliff with a wide part of the river -beneath, it forms a singularly beautiful picture. (_It is only shown -to visitors when the family is absent._) - -~The Chapel~ adjoins the mansion on the east, and contains a figure of -Guy, Earl of Warwick, dating from the fourteenth century. Guy's Lane -is near the chapel. - -~The Mill~ was built in 1821, and occupies the site of one dating as far -back as Saxon times. - -Guy of Warwick is a mythical personage, and the romance mentioning his -deeds dates from the thirteenth century. In the fifteenth century, -when the age of chivalry and romance was at its zenith, Guy was -treated in the same manner as King Arthur, and all kinds of doughty -deeds were attributed to him by the romancers. - -~Blacklow Hill~ stands half a mile farther on to the left of the road. -It is surmounted by a cross, erected in 1821 to commemorate the -execution in 1312 of Piers Gaveston. At Gloucester, the tomb of Edward -II., who, like his favourite, came to a tragic end, has been -mentioned. - - -KENILWORTH - -~The Castle~ is the centre of attraction, although there are some good -examples of half-timbered cottages to be seen in the long street of -the little town. The fortress was in ancient times one of the -strongest in England, as it afforded accommodation for a large -garrison, and by reason of the lake and broad moats filled with -water--now disappeared--it was almost impregnable. Numerous roads -converged towards it as the centre of England, and for many years it -was a royal residence. ~The Keep~ was built about 1170, and is a -splendid example of military architecture of the late Norman period. -It is square, with a projecting rectangle, and turrets at the corners. -The walls at the base are 14 feet thick. ~The Garden~, celebrated in -Scott's novel, lay upon the north side of the keep. South of the keep -occur Leicester's Buildings, with fourteenth-century kitchens and -other offices between. By the side of the Great Hall was the Strong -Tower, called Mervyn's Tower by Scott. Mortimer's Tower is isolated to -the south-east; the cutting through the great dam which restrained the -waters of the lake occurred here. The tilt-yard lay upon the top of -the dam. Beyond the Great Lake was the ~Chase~, and the circuit of -the castle, manor, parks and other lands, was about twenty miles. Many -historical names are associated with Kenilworth--the Clintons, Simon -de Montfort, John of Gaunt, and Robert Dudley, who entertained Queen -Elizabeth for seventeen days, and spent a fortune in doing so. The -castle was dismantled and the lake drained in the time of the -Commonwealth. - - [Illustration: FORD'S HOSPITAL, COVENTRY. - A late fifteenth century almshouse enriched with much elaborate - carving.] - -~The Church~ lies east of the castle. The tower and nave are of -Decorated work, but a Norman doorway has been inserted in the west -side of the tower, taken, probably, from the Priory. - -~The Priory~ stood close to the church; it was founded about 1122 by -Geoffrey de Clinton, and richly endowed. The remains of a gatehouse -may be seen, and also some exposed foundations of the walls of the -church. - - * * * * * - -On leaving Kenilworth for Coventry a stretch of moorland extends upon -the right hand, on which are two mounds with the usual fosses around -the summits, denoting British hill-forts. Beyond this the road begins -to assume that characteristic which has made the way from Kenilworth -to Coventry renowned as 'one of the two finest roads in -England'--needless to say, the other road is from Coventry to -Kenilworth--a magnificent avenue with broad strips of greensward lying -on either side, and glimpses of splendid Warwickshire scenery between -the boles, justify the foregoing descriptions. - -Two miles from Kenilworth is Gibbet Hill, the erection upon which has -now gone, but was used last in 1765 for the execution of two -murderers. Crossing Stivichall Common, with its triple array of -oak-trees on either side the road, the Coventry Grammar School -buildings are passed upon the left, and the 'City of the Three Spires' -is entered. - - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 15--COVENTRY.] - -COVENTRY - -The city derives its name from Conventre, or Convent Town, in -recognition of the Benedictine monastery erected by Leofric and Godiva -in 1043. The well-known legend connected with these famous personages -need only be referred to here. ~Gosford Green~, outside the town, was -the scene of the historical encounter between the Dukes of Hereford -and Norfolk in the reign of Richard II., which had such momentous -results. Many Parliaments have been held in the town, and it was -famous for the great number of religious communities which during the -medieval period were lodged in the town. The ancient fortifications -were dismantled in the time of Charles II. as a punishment for the -Commonwealth tendencies of the citizens. - -~St. Michael's Church~, a 'masterpiece of art,' and one of the finest -parish churches in England, stands in the centre of the city. It is in -the Perpendicular style, and has been recently restored. The spire is -303 feet high, and was begun in 1372; flying buttresses of great -elegance support the tower. The oldest part of the church is the -south porch, with a parvise over it. The chapels belonging to the -various guilds in the town still retain their old names. There are -many effigies, but none of great antiquity. - -~Holy Trinity Church~ is adjacent to St. Michael's. The date of -foundation is unknown; the style is late Early English, and the work -by the north porch dates from _c._ 1259. The porch has a domus, or -priest's chamber, over it. There are several chapels in the church -devoted to the city guilds. The foundations and remains noticed on the -north side of the church are those of the west front of the cathedral, -built about 1260 upon a preceding Norman foundation. It was the Priory -Church of the monastery founded by Leofric, and was demolished at the -Reformation. - -~St. Mary's Hall~, near St. Michael's, was begun in 1394, and belonged -to three guilds. It is of very great interest, and should on no -account be passed by. The great hall, crypt, tapestry, ancient glass -windows, and knaves' post, are all objects worthy of attention, while -the building generally is a vivid reminder of medieval life and -feeling. - -~Bablake Hospital~, founded in 1560, is close to St. John's Church, and -presents some picturesque examples of half-timber construction with -quaint gables. - -~Peeping Tom~ is a prominent feature of the King's Head Hotel in -Smithford Street, and ~Ford's Hospital~, down Greyfriar's Lane, -possesses an extremely fine facade and a charming timbered court rich -in carved oak and diamond-paned windows. - - * * * * * - -The road to Southam and Banbury leaves Coventry as the London Road, -and about two miles to the south ~Whitley Abbey~ is reached, formerly -the seat of Lord Hood, son of the famous Admiral. In Whitley Abbey -Charles I. resided while conducting operations against Coventry in -1622. On Whitley Common are traces of earthworks thrown up by the -Royalists. Baginton, lying about two miles to the right, contains the -remains of an ancient castle. Shortly after Whitley the road divides, -the one going to Southam being that upon the right. A turning shortly -afterwards at the cross-roads leads to the well-known ~Stoneleigh -Abbey~, lying five miles to the west, the site of a former castle and -of a subsequent foundation for Cistercian monks, which was -dispossessed at the Reformation. Some remains of the castle exist, -but the present building is an imposing range of buildings in the -classic style, and forms, with the grounds, one of the most splendid -country homes in the kingdom. It is the seat of Lord Leigh. - -~Long Itchington~ has some fine half-timbered houses, and is a -picturesque village. ~The Church~ was rebuilt in the fourteenth century -by the Priors of Maxstoke. In the eighteenth century the spire was -damaged by lightning; hence its present truncated appearance. The -aisle is part of the original church, and is Early English except the -doorway, which dates from the Norman period. There are some very -interesting details to be found in the interior, notably the chancel -screen, which is an extremely rare example of early fourteenth-century -woodwork. St. Wolstan, the last of the Saxon Bishops, was a native of -this place. Long Itchington was honoured by two visits from Queen -Elizabeth during her progresses to Kenilworth. Two miles farther on is -~Southam~, of no particular interest, although the church may perhaps -repay a casual inspection. The road lies through a pleasant district, -essentially Midland in its general aspects, but near the road turning -off to Fenny Compton higher ground is reached. ~Cropredy~, where the -battle was fought in 1644, is one and a half miles to the east by the -turning close to Mollington. - - -BANBURY - -Banbury is chiefly known by reason of its cross and its cakes. The -former has been destroyed, but a replica exists upon the site. It is a -small borough of about 4,000 inhabitants, and was formerly a notable -place for the manufacture of plush, but now produces agricultural -implements and portable engines. A castle was built here in 1125, but -it was entirely destroyed in the ~Civil War~. The moat, however, may -still be traced. In 1469 the common men of Yorkshire, to the number of -about 16,000, marched to Banbury under the leadership of 'Robin of -Redesdale,' and captured the Earl of Pembroke, after inflicting a -defeat upon him on the borders of Oxford. A college and hospital -formerly existed in the town. The church is of comparatively modern -construction, having been thoroughly rebuilt about a century ago. - -Leaving Banbury, the little village of ~Adderbury~ possesses a church -the chancel of which was built by William of Wykeham. Passing the -Astons, North, Mid, and Steeple, we come to the junction of roads -leading respectively to Woodstock and Oxford, and at this point a -Roman road--the Akeman Street--crosses the route, running between -Cirencester and Bicester. In the course of a few miles the outlying -portions of Oxford appear in view. - - [Illustration: MAGDALEN TOWER AND BRIDGE, OXFORD.] - - - - -SECTION XII - -(TRUNK ROUTE) - -OXFORD TO LONDON, 671/2 MILES - - -DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE - - Miles. - =Oxford= to Dorchester 91/4 - =Dorchester= to Nettlebed 91/2 - =Nettlebed= to Henley 41/2 - =Henley= to Maidenhead 91/4 - =Maidenhead= to Windsor 61/2 - =Windsor= to Staines 61/4 - =Staines= to Hampton 7 - =Hampton= to Hampton Court 1 - =Hampton Court= to Kingston 13/4 - =Kingston= to the G.P.O., London 121/2 - - -NOTES FOR DRIVERS - -Between =Oxford and Maidenhead= the road is somewhat hilly, but the -surface is generally good; there is a steep hill (1 in 13) =after -leaving Henley=. - -From =Maidenhead to London= the road is level, with an excellent -surface, except =between Maidenhead and Windsor=, where the road is -sometimes flooded. - - -PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE - -=Sandford-on-Thames.=--Small village; church not interesting; remains -of preceptory of Knights Templars. - -=Nuneham Courtney.=--Eighteenth-century village, very unusual; -Manor-house of Harcourts. - -=Dorchester.=--Old village, with many picturesque cottages; Abbey -Church of considerable interest. - -=Henley.=--Picturesque little town; the church, Early English and -Tudor; splendid river views; the Town Hall. - -=Maidenhead.=--Large modern town; fine boating centre. - -=Eton.=--The college and War Memorial Hall. - -=Windsor.=--The castle, dating from the Norman period, with many -subsequent additions; Town Hall, finished by Wren; a few old houses. - -=Hampton.=--Hampton Court, magnificent palace of Henry VIII. - -=Kingston.=--The church and Coronation Stone; almshouses and Lovekyn -Chapel. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 11. OXFORD TO WINDSOR.] - - [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 12--OXFORD.] - -OXFORD - -The entrance to the 'city of palaces' is through suburbs of a -commonplace, uninteresting, or even ugly character, the builders -having apparently gained no inspiration from the magnificent examples -of architecture which they are gradually hemming in. That such -squalid, or, at the best, perky and meretricious streets of houses -should have been allowed to encompass the architectural splendours of -the great University is a public scandal, and it is to be hoped that -before many years have passed some steps will be taken to wipe out the -worst of these new abominations. To adequately describe Oxford within -the limits of this work is impossible, and it will be sufficient to -indicate the salient features which should not be passed over. The -city lies upon a low ridge between the Thames and the Cherwell, and is -surrounded by a fine range of hills. The imposing array of towers and -spires, the many colleges with their historic quadrangles, the avenues -and groves and secluded college gardens, the marvellous profusion of -carved stonework, all combine to render the nucleus of this ancient -seat of learning one of the most beautiful in the British Empire. ~The -Bodleian Library~ is the hub round which the colleges cluster, and -after it has been seen the church of ~St. Mary the Virgin~ should be -visited, from its long connection with the seat of learning. Near it -are the New Schools, the Botanic Garden, and the Clarendon Press, -while the Taylor building contains many interesting pictures. Of the -colleges, All Souls, Balliol, Brasenose, Christ Church, Magdalen, -Merton, and New College, are among the most interesting. - -~The Cathedral~ belonging to Christ Church dates from 1160, and is a -noble example of Norman architecture. ~The nave~ is pure Norman, ~the -chancel~ Transitional, ~the chapter-house~ Early English. ~The shrine of -St. Frideswide~, ~the Bishop's throne~, and the grand modern reredos, are -particularly notable. - - * * * * * - -The first village passed after leaving Oxford is ~Sandford-on-Thames~, -but the flatness of the country and the presence of a paper-mill with -a tall chimney deprive the place of any particular charm beyond what -is found in the quietest reaches of the Upper Thames. Sandford Church -is not interesting, but there are remains of a preceptory of Knights -Templars at the farm by the brook a little to the north-west. - -The road continues parallel with the river, and soon passes through -the curiously uniform village of ~Nuneham Courtney~. The two lines of -picturesque cottages facing one another across the road were built by -the first Earl Harcourt, who, disliking the proximity of the village -to the manor-house, razed the cottages to the ground after -constructing the new ones, which have now been sufficiently toned down -by the weather to give a pleasing effect. This same building Earl -demolished the old church and erected another near the house, now -abandoned for a new one lately put up near the village. He also -rebuilt the house (_not shown to visitors_) in the severely classic -style in vogue at the close of the eighteenth century. The grounds and -gardens were laid out in part by the popular 'Capability' Brown, and -these may be seen on Tuesdays and Thursdays in the summer. _It is -advisable, however, if one particularly wishes to see them, to write -in advance to Mr. H. Gale, Nuneham Courtney._ - -About a mile beyond the village, at the cross-roads, there formerly -stood a little hostelry called the Golden Ball. It acquired a bad -reputation through the murder of a guest by his servant. The landlord, -having been found with a knife in his hand in the dead man's bedroom, -was condemned to death and hanged, but later on the servant confessed -that he had committed the murder which the landlord had intended. - - -DORCHESTER - -is a dreamy old village, beautifully placed upon the River Thames. It -contains many quaint timbered houses, some with thatched roofs, and -nearly all with some attractive features which make it hard to tear -oneself away from the place. The chief object of interest, apart from -the cottage architecture, is the huge church, so strangely out of -place in such a hamlet. Dorchester, however, has a history stretching -right back to the British period. During the Roman occupation the -camp here was supposed to be called _Dourcastrum_, altered into -Dorchester in the Saxon period, but this Roman name is uncertain. When -Dorchester was the seat of the Saxon bishopric of Wessex, the see -included about twenty English counties, but Remigius, the first Norman -Bishop, transferred it to Lincoln in 1085. The Saxon church, built in -1036, was occupied as a monastic church in 1140, when a monastery of -the Augustinians was founded. In 1200, and also in 1350, extensive -additions were made. In the church the Jesse window on the north side -is unique, for the figures are carved in stone. The east window is a -remarkable example of Decorated work; there is a massive buttress in -the centre, and the whole of the spaces are occupied by reticulated -tracery. The recumbent effigies, dating from 1200 to 1410, are very -interesting, while a brass of the Henry V. period lies in the floor. -The furnishing of the interior savours so much of the Roman church -that one might easily imagine oneself on the other side of the -Channel. One notices a bell conspicuous on the altar steps, and -'sacred' pictures, with candles and half-withered floral offerings in -front of them, are placed on the pillars and elsewhere! Is the Bishop -of Oxford aware of these strange reversions to the practices -condemned by the Protestant Church of England for the last four -centuries? The leaden font is of Norman workmanship, and is a -comparatively rare object. In the churchyard stands a cross with a -restored head. - -The ascent of the Chilterns is very gradual, becoming steeper, -however, in places, and delightful views are obtained over the -surrounding country. The quaint little village of Nettlebed stands -upon the summit (1,650 feet above sea-level), and thence the descent -to Henley commences. Near Nettlebed many cultivated downs are to be -seen, their rounded summits crowned as a rule with plantations--a -contrast in this respect with the bare South Downs. These rounded -knolls are all that denudation has left of the tertiary sand deposits -on the chalk. In many parts beeches flourish, and occasionally brick -and timber cottages of quaint aspect are passed. - - -HENLEY-ON-THAMES - -is a charming old town, apart altogether from the prominent position -it holds in the boating world, owing to the magnificent reach of the -Thames which occurs here. There are many picturesque old houses in -the wide, sunny street, and, as at Dorchester, the artist and -architect will find much to attract their attention. ~The Church~, -standing out boldly near the bridge, possesses an Early English -chancel, and the oldest part of the nave is of the same date. Nearly -everything else, including the flint tower, is Tudor. A monument to -Lady Elizabeth Periam, a sister of Lord Bacon and the mistress of -Greenlands (died 1621), is under the tower. There are two hagioscopes -and a priest's entrance to the vanished rood-loft. The bridge, with -open stone parapets, was built in 1786, after the old one had been -carried away by a flood. It is, therefore, much older than the -regatta, which was first held in 1839. - -The road between Henley-on-Thames and Maidenhead crosses the ground -lying in a loop of the Thames, gradually rising from Henley and -falling towards Maidenhead. The numerous turnings should be taken with -care. About two miles before reaching Maidenhead the Bath road is -joined. - - -MAIDENHEAD - -is more a centre for river excursions and boating-parties than a place -of any attractiveness in itself. It might easily be mistaken for one -of the better suburbs of London, and contains practically nothing of -interest. The great railway-bridge, with spans of 128 feet, was -designed by Brunel. - - -ETON - -On the left of the High Street, leading to the bridge facing Windsor, -are the picturesque Tudor buildings and the huge chapel of Eton -College. The great courtyard, surrounded by beautifully mellowed -ranges of red-brick buildings on three sides and the chapel on the -south, is delightfully picturesque; and the chapel itself, with its -enormous buttresses and lovely Perpendicular details, is a noble work -within and without. A statue of Henry VI., the founder, stands in the -centre of the large courtyard. The famous playing-fields, where it is -generally understood that those qualities which won the Battle of -Waterloo were developed, extend down to the Thames. - - -WINDSOR - -As one crosses the bridge, the long, imposing line of the castle walls -and towers frowns above the red roofs of the little town, generally -described as the Royal Borough of Windsor. A steep street winds up to -the castle gateway, and as one approaches nearer, the work of -Wyatville on the huge pile becomes painfully apparent. In vain does -one look for the slightest indication that the whole of the great -fortress, including the conspicuous Round Tower, was not built -yesterday. This is the tragedy of Windsor, and after the first general -glance one learns to expect nothing that tells its age by its masonry -or its weathering. Everything, except the timber and brick Horseshoe -Cloisters, is encased in harsh grey stone of a drearily uniform grey. - - - [Map: (TRUNK) No. 11. WINDSOR TO LONDON. - -The way into London from Kingston-on-Thames is over Putney Heath and -across Putney Bridge, where it is only necessary to follow the motor -omnibuses to reach Hyde Park Corner or any other central point.] - -It was probably William the Conqueror who built the first fortress on -the wonderfully defensive site raised above the Thames, but Henry -III., the builder of Westminster Abbey and much of the Tower of -London, who planned the castle on its present vast scale. Edward III., -having instituted the Order of the Garter, gave up the lower ward to -that distinguished body of knights, and it was he who employed William -of Wykeham as his architect or surveyor. The third, and practically -the last, great builder was George IV., who gave up the historic -buildings, then in bad repair, to the tender mercies of Sir Jeffry -Wyatville, with the results already deplored. - -(_The State apartments may be seen during the absence of the Court, -but about a week elapses after the Royal departure before the public -are admitted._) - -The magnificent Chapel of St. George--one of the three finest -Perpendicular chapels in the kingdom--was mainly built by Edward IV., -and finished by Henry VII. and VIII. In the choir are the stalls of -the Knights of the Garter, twenty-six in number, with their banners -above. Edward IV., Henry VI., Henry VIII., and Jane Seymour and -Charles I., were all buried in the chapel. - -~Windsor Park~ is famous for the Long Walk--three straight miles of -elms, planted by Charles II.; for the beautiful artificial lake, known -as Virginia Water; and for the mausoleum in the grounds of Frogmore -House, where Queen Victoria and the good Prince Consort lie buried. -(_On one day only--December 14--every year is this open to the -public._) - -The road keeps near the river, and passes close to historic Magna -Charta Island, where the unwilling John Lackland signed the great -charter of English liberty in 1215. - - -STAINES - -possesses an important bridge, the descendant of a wooden one which -stood there in 1262. The stone bridge, put up in 1792, gave way, and -its successor, built in 1803, was a bold engineering feat in the form -of a single iron span of 180 feet; but this, too, had to be replaced, -and in 1829 the present stone bridge was planned. It was opened in -1832 by William IV. and Queen Adelaide. - -After passing the picturesque Hampton Court Green, one reaches -Wolsey's magnificent red-brick palace-- - - -HAMPTON COURT - -The site had been in the possession of the Knights of St. John of -Jerusalem, and it was from the Prior that Cardinal Wolsey obtained a -lease in 1514. He demolished the manor-house, then standing, and in -its place planned the stately palace, with its several courtyards -entered by great gateways of red brick and stone. Here the princely -ecclesiastic entertained in a manner so sumptuous that the Court of -Henry VIII. was outshone by its brilliance. In 1526, the King having -commented on this fact, Wolsey promptly handed over his palace to his -royal master, who did not hesitate to accept a gift so pleasing. After -Wolsey's death, Henry spent much time at Hampton Court, and rebuilt a -large part of the palace. - -To chronicle a bare summary of historic events which took place in the -castle is not possible here, but in the early period of its existence -Edward VI. was born there, and within these old red walls Jane Seymour -died, Catherine Howard was disgraced, and Catherine Parr was married. -Here, too, Charles I. spent his honeymoon, and afterwards was confined -as a prisoner for three months. - - -KINGSTON-ON-THAMES - -on the other side of the river, is a busy little town of some -picturesqueness, possessing at one end of its narrowing market-place -the famous ~Coronation~ ~Stone~ from which the place derives its name. -The Perpendicular church, which is large and contains a monument by -Chantrey, used to have a quaint custom of cracking nuts during the -services on the Sunday preceding Michaelmas Eve. So great was the -noise of crunching nuts that it was almost impossible to hear the -voice of the clergyman. - - * * * * * - -After ascending Kingston Hill the road crosses Putney Heath, and -enters the Metropolis through the now uninteresting suburb of Putney. -After crossing Putney Bridge, the motor omnibuses are the best guide -to follow. - - - - -A SHORT TABLE, SHOWING THE KINGS AND QUEENS OF ENGLAND SINCE ALFRED -THE GREAT, THE CHIEF EVENTS OF THEIR REIGNS, AND THE STYLE OF -ARCHITECTURE PREVAILING IN EACH PERIOD - - - ARCHITECTURAL - PERIOD. SOVEREIGNS. IMPORTANT EVENTS. - - { _Saxon Kings from_ - { _Alfred the Great._ - { Alfred, 871 Danish invasions - { Edward the Elder, 901 - { Athelstane, 925 - { Edmund, 941 - { Edred, 946 - { Edwy, 955 - { Edgar, 959 - { Edward the Martyr, 975 - Saxon or { Ethelred the Unready, 978 - Pre-Norman { Edmund Ironside, 1016 - { - { _Danish Kings._ - { Cnut, 1017 - { Harold Harefoot, 1036 - { Hardicanute, 1040 - { - { _Saxon Kings._ - { Edward the Confessor, 1042 - { Harold II. 1066 Norman Conquest - - { William I., 1066 Domesday compilation - Norman and { William II., 1087 First Crusade, 1096 - Transitional, { Henry I., 1100 - 1066-1190 { Stephen, 1135 Civil war with Matilda - { throughout reign - { Henry II., 1154 Murder of Becket, 1170 - - { Richard I., 1189 Third Crusade, 1189 - { John, 1199 The Interdict, 1208 - { Magna Charta, 1215 - Early { Invasion of Louis the - English, { Dauphin, 1215 - 1190-1280 { Henry III., 1216 Battle of Lewes, 1264 - { First Parliament, 1265 - - Decorated, { Edward I., 1272 War with Scotland - 1280-1360 { Edward II., 1307 - { Edward III., 1327 The Black Death, 1349 - - { Richard II., 1377 Wat Tyler's Rebellion - { Henry IV., 1399 - { Henry V., 1413 Battle of Agincourt - Perpendicular,{ Henry VI., 1422 Wars of the Roses - 1360-1500 { Edward IV., 1461 Wars of the Roses - { Printing introduced - { Edward V., 1483 Murdered in the Tower - { Richard III., 1483 Killed at Bosworth - - { Henry VII., 1485 Discovery of America, 1492 - { Henry VIII., 1509 Field of the Cloth of - { Gold, 1520 - { Cardinal Wolsey, 1471-1530 - { Dissolution of the - { Monasteries, 1536 - Tudor, { Edward VI., 1547 Copy of the Bible ordered - 1500-1600 { to be placed in every - { church - { Mary, 1553 Persecution of Protestants - { Elizabeth, 1558 Execution of Mary Queen - { of Scots, 1587 - { Spanish Armada, 1588 - - { James I., 1603 Gunpowder Plot, 1605 - { Charles I., 1625 Civil War began, 1642 - { The Commonwealth, 1649 - Jacobean { Charles II., 1660 The Great Plague, 1665 - { James II., 1685 Monmouth's Rebellion, 1685 - { Revolution and landing of - { William of Orange, 1688 - - { William and Mary, 1689 - Queen Anne { Anne, 1702 Union of England and - { Scotland - - { George I., 1714 South Sea Bubble, 1720 - { George II., 1727 Rebellion of 1745 - { Taking of Canada, 1759 - { George III., 1760 American War of - Georgian { Independence, 1775 - { French Revolution, 1789 - { George IV., 1820 - { William IV., 1830 The first railway opened - { Reform Act, 1832 - - { Victoria, 1837 The Chartists, 1848 - Victorian { Great Exhibition, 1851 - { Crimean War, 1854 - { Indian Mutiny, 1857 - - Edward VII., 1901 - George V., 1910 - - - - -MOTOR-CAR SIGNS - - - A London - AA Southampton (C.C.) - AB Worcestershire - AC Warwickshire - AD Gloucestershire - AE Bristol - AF Cornwall - AH Norfolk - AI Meath - AJ Yorkshire (N.R.) - AK Bradford (Yorks) - AL Nottinghamshire - AM Wiltshire - AN West Ham - AO Cumberland - AP Sussex, East - AR Hertfordshire - AS Nairn - AT Kingston-on-Hull - AU Nottingham - AW Salop - AX Monmouthshire - AY Leicestershire - - B Lancashire - BA Salford - BB Newcastle-on-Tyne - BC Leicester - BD Northamptonshire - BE Lindsey, Lincs - BF Dorsetshire - BH Buckinghamshire - BI Monaghan - BJ Suffolk, East - BK Portsmouth - BL Berkshire - BM Bedfordshire - BN Bolton - BO Cardiff - BP Sussex, West - BR Sunderland - BS Orkney - BT Yorkshire (E.R.) - BU Oldham - BW Oxfordshire - BX Carmarthenshire - BY Croydon - - C Yorkshire (W.R.) - CA Denbighshire - CB Blackburn - CC Carnarvonshire - CD Brighton - CE Cambridgeshire - CF Suffolk, West - CH Derby - CI Queen's County - CJ Herefordshire - CK Preston - CL Norwich - CM Birkenhead - CN Gateshead - CO Plymouth - CP Halifax - CR Southampton - CT Kesteven, Lincs - CU South Shields - CW Burney - CX Huddersfield - CY Swansea - - D Kent - DA Wolverhampton - DB Stockport - DC Middlesbrough - DE Pembrokeshire - DF Northampton - DH Walsall - DI Roscommon - DJ St. Helens - DK Rochdale - DL Isle of Wight - DM Flintshire - DN York - DO Holland, Lincs - DP Reading - DR Devonport - DS Peebles - DU Coventry - DW Newport (Mon.) - DX Ipswich - DY Hastings - - E Staffordshire - EA West Bromwich - EB Isle of Ely - EC Westmorland - ED Warrington - EE Grimsby - EF West Hartlepool - EH Hanley - EI Sligo - EJ Cardiganshire - EK Wigan - EL Bournemouth - EM Bootle - EN Bury - EO Barrow-in-Furness - EP Montgomeryshire - ES Perth - ET Rotherham - EU Breconshire - EW Huntingdonshire - EX Great Yarmouth - EY Anglesea - - F Essex - FA Burton-on-Trent - FB Bath - FC Oxford - FD Dudley - FE Lincoln - FF Merionethshire - FH Gloucester - FI Tipperary (N.R.) - FJ Exeter - FK Worcester - FL Peterborough - FM Chester - FN Canterbury - FO Radnorshire - FP Rutlandshire - - G Glasgow - - H Middlesex - HI Tipperary - HS Renfrew - - IA Antrim - IB Armagh - IC Carlow - ID Cavan - IE Clare - IF Cork (County) - IH Donegal - IJ Down - IK Dublin - IL Fermanagh - IM Galway - IN Kerry - IO Kildare - IP Kilkenny - IR King's County - IT Leitrim - IU Limerick - IW Londonderry - IX Longford - IY Louth - IZ Mayo - - J Durham - JI Tyrone - JS Ross and Cromarty - - K Liverpool - KI Waterford - KS Roxburgh - - L Glamorganshire - LB London - LC London - LI West Meath - LN London - LS Selkirk - - M Cheshire - MI Wexford - MS Stirling - - N Manchester - NI Wicklow - NS Sutherland - - O Birmingham - OI Belfast - OS Wigtown - - P Surrey - PI Cork - PS Shetland - - R Derbyshire - RI Dublin - RS Aberdeen - - S Edinburgh - SA Aberdeen (County) - SB Argyll - SD Ayr - SE Banff - SH Berwick - SJ Bute - SK Caithness - SL Clackmannan - SM Dumfries - SN Dumbarton - SO Elgin - SP Fife - SR Forfar - SS Haddington - ST Inverness - SU Kincardine - SV Kinross - SW Kirkcudbright - SX Linlithgow - SY Midlothian - - T Devonshire - TI Limerick - TS Dundee - - U Leeds - UI Londonderry - US Govan - - V Lanark - VS Greenock - - W Sheffield - WI Waterford - WS Leith - - X Northumberland - XS Paisley - - Y Somersetshire - YS Partick - - - - -HOTELS ON THE ROUTE - -The following hotels are recommended, having been lately visited by -the authors: - - - DAVENTRY: The Wheatsheaf Hotel. - CHESTER: The Grosvenor Hotel. - RHYL: The Belvoir Hotel. - LLANDUDNO: The Queen's Hotel. - DOLGELLEY: The Golden Lion Hotel. - ST. DAVID'S: The City Hotel. - GLOUCESTER: The Bell and County Hotel. - LEAMINGTON SPA: The Regent Hotel. - - - - -INDEX - - - Aber, falls at, 94 - - Aberdovey, 128 - - Abergavenny, 187 - - Abergavenny, Marquis of, 187 - - Abergele, 60 - - Aberglaslyn, Pass of, 113 - - Abergynolwyn, 123 - - Aberystwyth, 130, 131 - - Adderbury, 303 - - Adelaide, Queen of William IV., 317 - - AElfrith, daughter of Alfred, 254 - - Afon Dulas, 124 - - Afon Gwaen, 156 - - Agincourt, Battle of, 222 - - Akeman Street, 283, 304 - - Aldenham, Lord, 9 - - Alderminster, 286 - - Aldersey Hall, 43 - - Alfred the Great, 234, 254, 282 - - 'Alleluia Victory,' 55 - - Althorp Park, 22 - - Anglesey, 88 - - Anglesey Column, 105 - - Anglesey, Marquis of, 105 - - Anker, River, 27 - - Ap Cadell ap Brochmail, Concenn, 71 - - Aquablanca, Bishop, 178 - - Aragon, Catherine of, 16 - - Arbury Hall, 26 - - Ardudwy, Mountains of, 120 - - Arkwright, Richard, 222 - - Arthog, 120 - - Arthur, King, 195 - - Arthur's Quoit, 116 - - Asthall Barrow, 277 - - Aston, North, Mid, and Steeple, 303 - - Athelney, 254 - - Atherstone, 28, 30 - - Avon, Warwickshire, 23 - - - Bacon, Sir Francis, Lord Verulam, 12, 13, 287, 313 - - Bala Lake, 83 - - Balshall, Dean, 289 - - Banbury, 303 - - Bangor, 96 - - Bardsey Island, 115 - - Barford, 290 - - Barmouth, 116, 120, 121 - - Barnet, 3, 4 - - Barrington, Great and Little, 276 - - Basingwerke Abbey, 56 - - Bath, 250-252 - - Batheaston, 242 - - Battle Abbey, a cell of, 146 - - Beaufort family, the, 194 - - Beaumaris, 94 - - Beavers, Valley of, 100 - - Beddgelert, 113 - - Bede, the Venerable, 8 - - Belesme, Robert de, 235 - - Benglog Bridge, 101 - - Berkeley Castle, 213 - - Berrington Hall, 225 - - Berwyn Mountains, 70 - - Bethesda, 99, 105 - - Bettws-y-Coed, 83, 84 - - Bigsweir Bridge, 203 - - Bird Rock, the, 122 - - Birmingham reservoirs, 181, 183 - - Black Forest, the, 185 - - Black Mountains, the, 147, 173, 185 - - Black Plague, 176 - - Blacklow Hill, 295 - - Blenheim Palace, 282 - - Blorenge Hill, 188, 191 - - Boadicea, 13, 44 - - Bodbury Ring, 230 - - Bodelwyddan Church, 62 - - Bodenham, 221 - - Bodfari, 57 - - Bordeaux, 42 - - Borth, 128 - - Boscobel House, 35 - - Bosworth, Battle of, 26, 28, 78 - - Boughrood Castle, 185 - - Bourton-on-the-Hill, 262 - - Bowood, 256 - - Box, 253 - - Bradwell Abbey, 20 - - Bran, River, 148 - - Bran the Blessed, 114 - - Braose, William de, 187 - - Breakspere, Nicholas, 12 - - Brecknock Beacons, 146, 147, 191 - - Brecon or Brecknock, 143-146 - - Bremhill Wick, 255 - - Bridgnorth, 226, 234-235 - - Brintirion, 118 - - Britannia Tubular Bridge, 105 - - British remains, 69, 83, 94, 129, 146 - - Broadway, 262 - - Brockhurst Castle, 230 - - Bromfield, 226 - - Bronllys Castle, 185 - - Bronwen, 114 - - Brookthorpe, 246 - - Broughton, 53 - - Brown, 'Capability,' 310 - - Brown Clee Hill, 226 - - Brownhills Common, 35 - - Brunel, 314 - - Buckley, 53 - - Buildwas Abbey, 233-234 - - Builth Wells, 183, 184 - - Burford, 260, 276-277 - - By Brook, the, 253 - - Byford, 176 - - Byng, Admiral, 4 - - Byron, Lord, 108 - - - Cader Idris, 117, 123, 132, 135, 137 - - Caen, Paul de, 8 - - Caer Caradoc Hill, 230 - - Caerleon, 206 - - Caerwent, 198, 199 - - Caerwys, 56 - - Caesar, Julius, 12 - - Caldicott Castle, 200 - - Calveley Hall, 43 - - Cannock Chase reservoir, 35 - - Cantelupe, George de, 188 - - Cantilupe, Sir Thomas, 178 - - Capel Curig, 102 - - Capel Garmon, 84, 85 - - Caractacus, 230 - - Caradoc, King of North Wales, 60 - - Caradoc Range, 231 - - Carden Hall, 42 - - Cardiff Castle, 214 - - Cardigan, 151 - - Cardigan Bay, 130 - - Careg Cennen, 171 - - Carmarthen, 168, 169 - - Carnarvon, 57, 105-109 - - Carnarvon Castle, 107 - - Carnarvonshire Mountains, 88 - - Carnedd Dafydd, 100, 110 - - Carnedd Llewelyn, 100 - - Carno, River, 138, 139 - - Castell Crogen, 81 - - Castell Dinas Bran, 70 - - Castell-fan-Crach, 132 - - Castell-y-Bere, 123 - - Castell-y-Gaer, 121 - - Cave, 23 - - Cefn Caves, the, 63 - - Cefn Hall, 63 - - Cefn-y-Bedd, 184 - - Cemmaes, 138, 155 - - Cenarth, 151 - - Cencoed Castle, 199 - - Ceriog Valley, 82 - - Cerrig-y-Druidon, 83 - - Chandos family, 207 - - Chantrey, 319 - - Charlecote Park, 290 - - Charles I., 22, 194, 248, 262, 316, 318 - - Charles II., 35, 299, 317 - - Charlton, Bishop, 176 - - Charlton Park, 258 - - Chartist riots, 198 - - Cheltenham, 270-272 - - Chepstow, 200, 201 - - Chepstow, Marshall, Earl of, 153 - - Cheshire bowmen, 41 - - Chester, 14, 45-51 - - Chester, Bishop of, 234 - - Chiltern Hills, 19, 312 - - Chippenham, 254-255 - - Chipping Norton, 261, 283 - - Chirk Castle, 66, 81 - - Cholmondeley Castle, 42 - - Churchdown Hill, 270 - - Churchover, 23 - - Church Stretton, 229 - - Cirencester, 259 - - Civil War, 42, 43, 48, 59, 65, 80, 81, 90, 108, 130, 144, 150, - 165, 194, 200, 206, 208, 212, 226, 229, 235, 242, 283, 290, - 299, 303 - - Clare, David le, 42 - - Clare, Gilbert de, 165, 266 - - Cleddau, River, 165 - - Clifford Castle, 175 - - Clifford, Jane de, 175 - - Clinton, Geoffrey de, 297 - - Clinton, Roger de, 234 - - Clintons, the, 297 - - Clopton, Sir John, 288 - - Clopton Tower, 290 - - Clwyd, Vale of, 57, 58, 59, 60, 63, 64, 68, 69 - - Clwydian Hills, 56, 67 - - Clyro, 175 - - Clyro Castle, 174 - - Clytha Castle, 191 - - Clywedog, the, 135 - - Coalbrookdale, 234 - - Coetmore, Howel, 86 - - Coldbrook House, 191 - - Cold Door Pass, 137 - - Coningsby family, 222 - - Conway, 85, 90-93 - - Conway Abbey, 86 - - Conway Castle, 90, 92 - - Conway Falls, 83 - - Conway Valley, 86 - - Corne Dale, 227 - - Cornwallis West, Colonel W., 67 - - Corris, 124 - - Cors-y-Gedol, 116 - - Corsham, 253-254 - - Corston, 258 - - Corwen, 69 - - Cothi, River, 148 - - Cotswolds, the, 246, 247, 262, 272-273 - - Cound, 233 - - Coventry, 49, 298-301 - - Cranmer, Archbishop, 16 - - Criccieth, Castle of, 115 - - Crick, 200 - - Crickhowell, 186 - - Cricklade, 258-259 - - Cromwell, Oliver, 261 - - Cropredy, 302 - - Cross Foxes Inn, 123, 137 - - Cross-in-Hand, 25 - - Curzon of Kedleston, Lord, 258 - - Cusop Castle, 174 - - Cutts, Sir John, 6 - - Cwm Bychan, Lake of, 115 - - Cwm Hir, Abbey of, 140 - - Cymmer Abbey, 118 - - - Darby, Abraham, 234 - - Darby Family, the, 234 - - Dauncer Family, 220 - - Daventry, 22 - - Dean, Forest of, 210 - - Dee, River, 69, 70, 73, 83 - - Dee Valley, 82 - - Deerhurst Priory, 268 - - Denbigh, 63, 67 - - Denbigh Castle, 66 - - Derwen, 69 - - Deudraeth, Castle of, 114 - - Devil's Bridge, 131, 132 - - Devil's Kitchen, the, 101 - - Devil's Pots, the, 102 - - Devil's Punch Bowl, 132 - - Dinas Mawddwy, 136, 137 - - Dinmore Hill, 221 - - Dixton, 205 - - Dolbadarn Castle, 110 - - Dolgelley, 118, 120, 135 - - Dorchester, 310-311 - - Dovey, the, 124, 126, 128, 138 - - Dowards, the Great and Little, 206, 210 - - Drayton, Fenny, 27 - - Drayton Manor, 30 - - Drayton, Michael, 27 - - Druidical Circles, 130, 286 - - Drws Ardudwy, 115 - - Dryslwyn Castle, 170 - - Dudley, Robert, 297 - - Dudmaston Castle, 235 - - Dulais, River, 148 - - Dunsmore Heath, 23 - - Dunstable, 15-17 - - Dunstable Downs, 19 - - Duerer, Albrecht, 78 - - Dursley Cross, 211 - - Dyffryn River, 121 - - Dynevor Castle, 150 - - Dynevor, Lord, 171 - - Dynevor Park, 170 - - Dysynni Valley, 123 - - - Ealdhelm, 257 - - Easton Neston House, 20 - - Eaton Hall, 224 - - Edeyrnion, Vale of, 83 - - Edgar, King, 31 - - Edgware, 3 - - Edred, King, 11 - - Edward I., 58, 64, 76, 108, 114, 123, 130, 170, 214, 228 - - Edward II., 108, 213, 214, 217 - - Edward III., 167, 316 - - Edward IV., 114, 226, 268, 316, 326 - - Edward V., 20 - - Edward VI., 318 - - Eglwyseg, the, 72 - - Eglwyseg Rocks, 70 - - Eisteddfodau, the, 56 - - Elan, Vale of the, 181 - - Eleanor of Castile, 16 - - Eleanor Cross at Stony Stratford, 20 - - Elidyr Fawr, 100, 110 - - Eliot, George, 26 - - Eliseg's Pillar, 71 - - Elizabeth, Queen, 282, 290, 297-302 - - Ellesmere, 74 - - Elstree, 3 - - Emlyn, Viscount, 170 - - Enstone, 283 - - Ermine Way, 259 - - Erwood, 184 - - Ethandune, Battle of, 254 - - Ethelbert, 177, 221 - - Ethelfleda, Queen, 30, 50, 235 - - Ethelred, King, 282 - - Eton, 314 - - Evesham, 262-264 - - Evesham, Battle of, 264 - - Eye, 225 - - Eynsham, 278 - - - Fairy Glen, the, 83 - - Falaise, 266 - - Fenny Compton, 302 - - Fenny Stratford, 19 - - Ferrers Family, 30, 31 - - Ffestiniog Railway, 113 - - Ffestiniog, Vale of, 113 - - Fishguard, 155, 156 - - Fitz-Hamon, Robert, 266 - - Fitzharon of Glamorgan, 197 - - Fitz-Osborn, Earl of Hereford, 200 - - Flamstead, 15 - - Flanesford Priory, 206 - - Foel Fras, 94 - - Ford, 222 - - Foss Way, 26, 258, 275 - - Fox, George, 27 - - Frevilles, the, 31 - - Friog, 121 - - Frost, Jack, 198 - - Frowyke, Thomas de, 5 - - - Garter, Order of the, 316 - - Garth Hill, 184 - - Gastrell, Rev. Francis, 288 - - Gaullwyd Valley, 135 - - Gaunt, John of, 297 - - Gaveston, Piers, 295 - - Geoffrey of Monmouth, 204 - - George IV., 316 - - Germanus, 55 - - Giant's Nose, 117 - - Gibbet Hill, 298 - - Glandovey, 128 - - Glasbury, 172 - - Glaspwll Cascade, 128 - - Glendower, Owen, 39, 57, 64, 68, 69, 70, 114, 125, 174, 224 - - Gloucester, 211-218, 246 - - Gloucester Cathedral, 212-216 - - Gloucester, Humphrey, Duke of, 10 - - Glyder Fach, 100, 102 - - Glyder Fawr, 100, 101, 102, 111 - - Godiva, Lady, 298 - - Goodrich Castle, 206 - - Goodrich Court, 207 - - Goodwick Harbour, 155 - - Gorhambury, 14 - - Gower, Bishop, 160 - - Graig Serrerthin, 210 - - Great Orme's Head, 87 - - Greenlands, Henley, 313 - - Grey, Reginald de, 68 - - Greys, the De, 207 - - Griffith, the son of Madoc, 71 - - Grim's Dyke, 283 - - Grimthorpe, Lord, 9, 11 - - Grongar Hill, 170 - - Guy's Cliff, 294, 295 - - Gwydir Castle, 85, 86 - - Gwynedd, Owen, 130 - - Gwynn, Nell, 6 - - - Hafod Bridge Inn, 148 - - Hakluyt, family of, 225 - - Haldingham, Richard de, 179 - - Halkin Mountain, 53, 56 - - Hall, Dr., 288 - - Hampton Court, Herefordshire, 222 - - Hampton Court, Middlesex, 317 - - Handley Church, 43 - - Harcourt family, 309 - - Hardicanute, 238 - - Hardwicke, 246 - - Hare, Mr. Augustus, 228, 229 - - Harlech, 113, 114, 121 - - Hartshill, 27 - - Hathaway, Anne, cottage of, 290 - - Haverfordwest, 163, 165, 166 - - Hawkstone Park, 41 - - Hay, 173 - - Heaven's Gate Camp, 233 - - Henley-on-Thames, 312-313 - - Henry of Bolingbroke. See Henry IV. - - Henry I., 224 - - Henry II., 175, 235, 282 - - Henry III., 165, 173, 264, 316 - - Henry IV., 39 - - Henry V., 204, 224 - - Henry VI., 10, 314, 316 - - Henry VII., 78, 171, 194, 316 - - Henry VIII., 5, 316, 318 - - Herckenrode, nunnery of, 34 - - Hereford, 176-179 - - Hereford, Dukes of, 298 - - Hill, Rowland, 41 - - Hinckley, 26 - - Holmer Church, 220 - - Hood, Lord, 301 - - Hooper, Bishop, 216 - - Hope Bowdler, 229 - - Hope Church, 222 - - Hope-under-Dinmore, 222 - - Howard, Catherine, 318 - - Humpe, Master, 257 - - Huntley, 211 - - Hwlffordd, Robert de, 166 - - - Icknield Way, 15 - - Idwal, Prince, 101 - - Ironbridge, 234 - - Itchington, Lord, 302 - - Ivington Camp, 224 - - - James I., 23, 174 - - 'Jesse Tree,' 188 - - 'John Halifax, Gentleman,' 272 - - John, King, 176, 317 - - Johnson, Samuel, 35 - - Jones, Inigo, 85, 86, 258 - - Juxon, Bishop, 261 - - - Kenilworth, 296-297 - - Kerne Bridge, 206 - - Kidderminster, 235-236 - - Kilgerran Castle, 152 - - Kilsby, 23 - - Kingston-on-Thames, 318 - - Kite's Nest Inn, 176 - - Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 208 - - Knyvet, Sir Thomas, 258 - - Kyrle, John, 208-209 - - - Laceys, the, 64 - - Lampeter, 148 - - Langley Burrell, 255 - - Lansdowne, Lord, 256 - - Lawley, the, 229 - - Lea, 210 - - Leamington, 293-294 - - Lechlade, 259 - - Ledbury, 241-242 - - Leicester, 22, 26 - - Leicester, Earls of, 292, 297 - - Leigh, Lord, 302 - - Leland, 174, 197, 257 - - Lenthall, Sir Roland, 222 - - Leofric, 298 - - Leominster, 222-224 - - Letton, 175 - - Leycester's Hospital, Warwick, 293 - - Lichfield, 32, 33 - - Little Minster, 276 - - Little Orme, the, 88 - - Llanbadarn, 131 - - Llanbeblig Church, 109 - - Llanbedr, 115 - - Llanberis, 110 - - Llanberis, Old, 111 - - Llanberis, Pass of, 111 - - Llanbyther, 149 - - Llanddwywe Church, 116 - - Llandegai, 99 - - Llandegai, Model Village of, 94 - - Llandilo, 171 - - Llandinam, 139 - - Llandovery, 148 - - Llandudno, 87, 88 - - Llandyssil, 149 - - Llanegryn, 122 - - Llanelltyd, 118 - - Llanfairfechan, 94 - - Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, etc., 105 - - Llanfihangel-ar-Arth, 149 - - Llangattock-juxta-Usk, 191 - - Llangelynin, 122 - - Llangoed, 185 - - Llangollen, 70-72 - - Llangollen Bridge, 70 - - Llangollen, Ladies of, 70 - - Llangollen, the Vale of, 72 - - Llangorse Lake, 185 - - Llangunnor, 169 - - Llangurig, 131, 141 - - Llanidloes, 140 - - Llanrhaiadr Church, 66 - - Llanrwst, 85, 86 - - Llanthony Abbey, 175, 211 - - Llanvihangel-on-Usk, 191 - - Llanwrda, 148, 172 - - Llawhaden Castle, 167 - - Llawr Lech, 117 - - Llewelyn, 58, 85, 155, 184 - - Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, 56 - - Lleyn Peninsula, 121 - - Llwyngwril, 121 - - Llyn Bochlwyd, 102 - - Llyn Ogwen, 101 - - Llyn Padarn, 109 - - Llyn Peris, 111 - - London Colney, 6 - - Longchamps, the, 207 - - Long Compton, 286 - - Long Mynd, 229, 231 - - Lorraine, Robert, 177 - - Lovers' Leap, 201, 203 - - Lucy, Sir Thomas, 290 - - Ludlow, 225-226 - - Ludlow, Lawrence de, 228 - - Lug, River, 222 - - Lutterworth, 24, 25 - - Lyfnant Valley, 128 - - Lyneham Barrows, 261 - - Lysdinam Hall, 183 - - Lyswen, 185 - - - Machynlleth, 125 - - Maenan Abbey, 86 - - Maenan House, 86 - - Magna Charta, 266 - - Magna Charta Island, 317 - - Maiden Bower, 15 - - Maidenhead, 313-314 - - Maldulph, 256 - - Malmesbury, 256-258 - - Malvern, Great, 240, 241 - - Malvern Hills, 236 - - Mancetter, 27 - - Mancetter Manor House, 27 - - Mandeville, Sir John, 11 - - Mansell Hill, 176 - - _Mappa Mundi_, 178 - - Marden Church, 221 - - Margaret of Anjou, 114 - - Marlborough, Duke of, 282 - - Marmions, the, 31 - - Martin de Tours, 152 - - Mathern, 200 - - Matilda, the Empress, 212 - - Maud Heath's Causeway, 255 - - Mawddach, the, 116, 117, 120 - - Maxstoke, Priors of, 302 - - Menai Straits, the, 88, 107 - - Menai Suspension Bridge, 104 - - Merbach Hill, 175 - - Merevale Abbey, 30 - - Merewald, King of the West Mercians, 222 - - Methuen, Lord, 253 - - Methuen, Sir Paul, 253 - - Meyrick, Sir Samuel, 207 - - Mimms, North, 5 - - Mimms, South, 5 - - Miner's Bridge, the, 84 - - Minster Lovell, 277 - - Mistletoe, 241 - - Mitcheldean, 211 - - Moccas Park, 176 - - Mochras, Island of, 115 - - Moel Arthur, 56 - - Moel Fammau, 55, 56, 67, 69 - - Moel Feulli, 69 - - Moel Habog, 113 - - Moel Hebod, 115 - - Moel Siabod, 85, 100, 102 - - Moel-y-Gaer, 129 - - Mold, 53-56 - - Mollington, 303 - - Monken Hadley, 4 - - Monmouth, 203-205 - - Monnow, River, 203 - - Montfort, Simon de, 264, 297 - - Montgomery, Roger de, 226, 235 - - Moreton-in-the-Marsh, 262 - - Moreton-on-Lug, 220 - - Morfa Harlech, 114 - - Morfa Rhuddlan, 59 - - Morfe, Forest of, 235 - - Mortimer, Roger, 81 - - Mortimers, the, 39 - - Mouse Castle, 174 - - Muckley Corner, 35 - - Mulock's, Miss, 'John Halifax, Gentleman,' 265 - - Myddelton, Richard, 66 - - Myddelton, Sir Hugh, 66, 73, 81 - - Myddelton, Sir Thomas, 68, 81, 82 - - Mynydd Prescelly, 153 - - Mytton, General, 59 - - - Nailsworth, 250 - - Nant Ffrancon, 86, 100, 110, 111 - - Nant Gwgan, 124 - - Nantclwyd, Vale of, 69 - - Narberth, 167, 168 - - Naseby, Battle of, 194 - - Nash, Beau, 252 - - Nelson, Lord, 170 - - Nequam, Alexander, 11 - - Nero, 13 - - Nevern, 153 - - New River, the, 66, 81 - - Newbridge-on-Wye, 183 - - Newburgh, Earl Roger de, 292 - - Newcastle Emlyn, 150 - - Newgate, 164 - - Newport, Mon., 196-199 - - Norfolk, Dukes of, 298 - - Norfolk, Roger Bigod, Earl of, 202 - - Northleach, 274 - - Nuneaton, 26 - - Nuneham Courtney, 309 - - - Oakengates, 36 - - Offa's Dyke, 80, 82, 176, 201 - - Offa, King of Mercia, 8, 59, 80, 221 - - Ogham Stones, 116 - - Ogofan, the, 148 - - Ombersley, 236 - - Onibury, 227 - - Osric, King of Mercia, 213 - - Oswald, 238 - - Oswestry, 80 - - Overton Scar, 42 - - Oxford, 306-308 - - - Painswick, 246-248 - - Panorama Walk, 117 - - Paris, Matthew, 11 - - Parker, Abbot, 214 - - Parr, Catherine, 318 - - Paxton, Sir William, 170 - - Pearson, Bishop, 47 - - Peel, Sir Robert, 30 - - Pembroke, William, Earl of, 65, 194, 303 - - Pen Caer Peninsula, 156 - - Pendragon, 195 - - Penhow Castle, 199 - - Penmachno, 83 - - Penmaenpool, 120 - - Penrhyn Castle, 94, 95, 99 - - Pentre Evan Cromlech, 154 - - Pentre Voelas, 83 - - Pen-y-Gaer, 83 - - Penyard Castle, 210 - - Percies, the, 39 - - Percy, Henry, 64 - - Percy, Lord Algernon, 295 - - Periam, Lady Elizabeth, 313 - - Pershore, Abbots of, 262 - - Picton Castle, 167 - - Picton monument, 169 - - Piercefield Park, 201 - - Pistyll-y-Cain, 136 - - Pistyll-y-Llyn, 128 - - Pitchcombe, 246, 248 - - Plas Mawr, Conway, 92 - - Plas Newydd, 70 - - Plautius, Aulus, 12 - - Plynlimmon, 132, 139, 140 - - Pointz Castle, 164 - - Poitiers, Battle of, 86 - - Pont Erwydd, 131, 132 - - Port Dinorwic, 105 - - Powis, Princes of, 71 - - Precipice Walk, the, 135 - - Prehistoric remains, 116, 156, 286 - - Prescelly Mountains, 155 - - Puesdown Inn, 272 - - Puffin Island, 94 - - Putney Heath, 319 - - Putta, Bishop, 177 - - - Quatt, 235 - - Quendrida, Offa's Queen, 221 - - - Raglan Castle, 192-194 - - Rain, 148 - - Ramryge, Abbot, 10 - - Reading Priory, 224 - - Redbourne, 14 - - Redbrook, 203 - - Redesdale, Robin of, 303 - - Redhill, 36 - - Ramsey Island, 161 - - Rembrandt's (?) 'Mill,' 256 - - Remigius, Bishop, 311 - - Rheidol, Falls of the, 132 - - Rheidol Valley, 132 - - Rhuddlan, 62, 64 - - Rhuddlan Church, 59 - - Rhyl, 60 - - Rhys of Wales, 172 - - Richard II., 79 - - Richard's Castle, 225 - - Richard of Scrop, 225 - - Ridge Hill, 5 - - Risbury Camp, 222 - - Rivals, the, 115 - - Robbers' Cave, 132 - - Robert, Duke of Normandy, 214 - - Robeston Wathen, 167 - - Robin Hood's Butts, 220 - - Roche Castle, 164 - - Rodney, Lord, 225 - - Rollright Stones, 286 - - Roman roads, 198, 211, 229, 231, 237, 251, 258, 259, 282, 283, 304 - - Roman sites, 15, 19, 23, 35, 36, 37, 44, 56, 57, 69, 77, 86, 105, - 109, 125, 139, 146, 147, 150, 168, 169, 172, 174, 183, 187, - 195, 199, 204, 230, 259, 275, 311 - - Roman steps, 115 - - Rosamond, Fair, 175, 282 - - Ross, 208-210 - - Rowton Moor, 43 - - Rugby, 24 - - Rupert, Prince, 242 - - Ruthin, 67-69 - - - Sai, Picot de, 227 - - St. Albans, 5, 6-14, 221, 267 - - St. Amphibalus, 10 - - St. Arvans, 201 - - St. Asaph, 57-58 - - St. Bride's Bay, 164 - - St. Caradoc, 160 - - St. Chad, 32 - - St. Clears, 168 - - St. David's, 157-161 - - St. David's, Bishops of, 167 - - St. David's Head, 157 - - St. David's, Lord, 165 - - St. Dogmael's Priory, 152 - - St. Idloes, 140 - - St. Thomas a Becket, Chapel of, 160 - - St. Tudno's Church, 87 - - St. Tyssul, 150 - - St. Werburgh, 51 - - St. Wolstan, 302 - - Salisbury Cathedral, 259 - - Salisbury Hall, 5 - - Saltney, 53 - - Salusbury, Colonel William, 65 - - Sandford-on-Thames, 308 - - Sandys, Lord, 236 - - Sarn Badrig, 115 - - Sarn Helen Roman road, 148, 149 - - Saxon Architecture, 31 - - Scott, Sir Gilbert, 58, 146 - - Scott, Sir Walter, 296 - - Senny Bridge, 147 - - Seoint, River, 107 - - Severn, River, 37, 76, 132, 139, 141, 236, 247, 250 - - Seymour, Jane, 316 - - Shakespeare, Susannah, 288 - - Shakespeare, William, 287-290 - - Sherborne Park, 275 - - Sherbourne, 290 - - Shifnal, 36 - - Shipstone-on-Stour, 286 - - Shipton-under-Wychwood, 260 - - Shottery, 290 - - Shrewsbury, 37, 39, 76-80 - - Shrewsbury, Battle of, 39, 41 - - Shrewsbury, Earls of, 42, 206 - - Shrewsbury, Roger, Earl of, 79 - - Shropshire Union, 35 - - Silurian fossils, 226, 231 - - Skomer Island, 165 - - Skyrrid, Great, 188 - - Slate quarries, 99 - - Smith, Worthington G., 17 - - Smockington, 26 - - Snow, Sir Jeremy, 6 - - Snowdon, 84, 102, 109, 111, 115 - - Snowshill Valley, 262 - - Solva, 164 - - Sopwell, 14 - - Southam, 302 - - Speen, 259 - - Spencer, Earl, 22 - - Stafford, Lord, 170 - - Staines, 317 - - Staunton, 176 - - Stephen, King, 149, 178, 201 - - Stivichall Common, 298 - - Stoke d'Abernon, 227 - - Stokesay Castle, 227-228 - - Stoneleigh Abbey, 301 - - Stony Stratford, 20 - - Stour, River, 236 - - Stourport, 236 - - Strafford, Earl of, 4 - - Strata Florida Abbey, 132 - - Stratford, John de, 289 - - Stratford-on-Avon, 287-290 - - Stratford, Ralph de, 289 - - Stretton, Hesba, 230 - - Strongbow, Gilbert de, 130 - - Stroud, 248-250 - - Strumble Head, 156 - - Sugar Loaf, the, 186, 188, 191 - - Sugar Loaf Hills, 220 - - Sutton Walls, 221 - - Swift, Dean, 207 - - Swift, River, 24 - - Swinford Bridge, 279 - - Sychnant Pass, 93 - - Symond's Yat, 205, 206, 210 - - - Taff, River, 168 - - Teifi, River, 148, 149, 150, 161 - - Talgarth, 185 - - Taliesin, 129 - - Tal-y-Cafn, 86 - - Tal-y-llyn, 123, 124 - - Tamworth, 31 - - Telford, 74, 82 - - Teme, River, 226 - - Tewkesbury, 264-268 - - Tewkesbury Abbey, 267 - - Tewkesbury, Battle of, 267 - - Thirlwall, Bishop, 161 - - Thomas, Sir William ap, 19 - - Three Cocks, the, 172 - - Throckmorton, John, 250 - - Tintern Abbey, 202 - - Titterstone Camp, 227 - - Torrent Walk, the, 135 - - Totternhoe, 15 - - Towcester, 20 - - Towy, River, 148, 171, 172 - - Traeth Mawr, 113 - - Trecastle, 147 - - Trefnant, 63 - - Trefriew, 86 - - Tre-Taliesin, 129 - - Trothy, River, 203 - - Tryfaen, 102 - - Tudor, Edmund, 160 - - Tudor, Jasper, 65 - - Twining, John, 217 - - Twll Du, 101 - - Tyler, Wat, 12 - - Tyttenhanger, 6 - - - Usk, River, 143, 147, 186, 194, 197 - - - Valle Crucis Abbey, 71, 118 - - Vanbrugh, Sir John, 42, 282 - - Van Lead Mines, 140 - - Vaughan, Bishop, 160 - - Vaughans, the, 116 - - Vaughans of Nannau, 135 - - Venables family, 43, 183 - - Ver, River, 12, 14 - - Verdun, John de, 228 - - Verulamium, 7, 12, 13 - - Victoria, Queen, 317 - - Virginia Water, 317 - - - Wallingford, Abbot, 9 - - Warwick, 290-293 - - Warwick, Earls of, 187, 292, 295 - - Warwick, Guy of, 295 - - Warwick, the King-maker, 4 - - Waterloo, Battle of, 105, 169 - - Watling Street, 14, 15, 20, 23, 25, 28, 35, 36, 44 - - Wat's Dyke, 80 - - Weedon, 20 - - Wellington Church, 221 - - Welsh Architecture, 140 - - Wem, 41 - - Weston Park, 35 - - Weston-under-Penyard, 210 - - Wheathampstead, Abbot, 9 - - Whitchurch, 41, 63, 66, 206 - - White Cross, 176 - - Whitley Abbey, 301 - - Whitney, 175 - - Wicklow, Mountains of, 107 - - William the Conqueror, 171, 236, 266, 315 - - William Rufus, 167 - - William III., 23 - - William IV., 317 - - Williams-Wynn, Bart., Sir H. Watkin, 72 - - Willoughby de Broke, Lady, 62 - - Wilton Bridge, 207 - - Wilton Castle, 207, 210 - - Windrush, River, 275, 276 - - Windsor, 314-315 - - Wistanstow, 229 - - Witherley, 27 - - Witney, 275, 277-278 - - Woburn Park and Abbey, 19 - - Wolsey, Cardinal, 318 - - Wombridge, Prior of, 36 - - Woodstock, 283 - - Woofferton, 225 - - Worcester, 236-240 - - Worcester, Battle of, 6, 35, 240 - - Worcester Priory, 238 - - Wotton St. Mary, 270 - - Wrekin, the, 36, 233 - - Wren, Sir Christopher, 33 - - Wrexham, 73 - - Wrotham Park, 4 - - Wroxeter, 37 - - Wulfstan, 238 - - Wyatville, Sir J., 315 - - Wychwood Forest, 259 - - Wycliffe, 24, 25 - - Wye, River, 132, 133, 140, 172, 176, 181, 183, 203, 205, 206, 210 - - Wykeham, William of, 303, 316 - - Wynne, Captain, 67 - - Wynne family, the, 85 - - Wynnstay Park, 72 - - Wytham Hill, 279 - - - Y Garn, 100 - - -BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD. - - - - - [Map: MAP ACCOMPANYING "THE MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND" (WESTERN SECTION) - BY GORDON HOME - - _NOTE_ - THE MAIN OR TRUNK ROUTE IS MARKED "_TRUNK_". - LOOPS FROM THE TRUNK ROUTE ARE MARKED "_LOOP 1_" AND SO ON. - ALTERNATIVE ROUTES ARE INDICATED WITH DOTTED LINES - - W. I. A. K. Johnston Limited. Lithographers, Edinburgh & London - PUBLISHED BY A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON] - - - - - DINNEFORD'S - MAGNESIA - -Approved by the Medical Profession for over SEVENTY Years as the BEST -REMEDY FOR - - ACIDITY of the STOMACH, - HEARTBURN, - HEADACHE, - GOUT and - INDIGESTION - -SAFEST AND MOST EFFECTIVE APERIENT FOR REGULAR USE - - - - - GAUTIER'S - _TWENTY YEARS OLD_ - LIQUEUR BRANDY. - -This Celebrated Liqueur Brandy (guaranteed 20 years old) is now put up -in Patent Flasks, with pure Aluminium Cup Attachment, especially -suitable for Railway, Motor, and Steamship Travelling, Hunting, -Shooting, Fishing, Cycling, and in all cases where a small quantity of -an undoubtedly Fine Spirit in the pocket is a desirability. - -GUARANTEED PURE GRAPE. - -_Obtainable at most Railway and Hotel Bars._ - -GAUTIER FRERES, COGNAC. - -ESTABLISHED 1755. - - _Wholesale Agents only_: BROWN, GORE & CO., - TOWER HOUSE, 40, TRINITY SQUARE, E.C. - - - - - SALSBURY - _'Anti-Dazlo'_ - MOTOR LAMP. - -THE PATENT DUBLITO INTENSIFIER _GIVES OVER 50% MORE LIGHT_ AND -ELIMINATES =DANGEROUS DAZZLING=. - - The New Gas Generator is the - MOST SIMPLE. - It has only One Loose Part. - -_Show Rooms_: =124 LONG ACRE, LONDON, W.C.= - -_Special Repair Department for all Makes: 1, 2 & 3, Mercer Street -(adjoining Show Rooms)._ - - - - - ACCIDENTS WILL HAPPEN - _HOWEVER CAREFUL OR EXPERIENCED A DRIVER MAY BE_ - AND THESE DO NOT ALWAYS HAPPEN WHERE A DOCTOR IS AVAILABLE - A VALUABLE COMPANION TO HAVE IN A CAR IS - BLACK'S MEDICAL DICTIONARY - (_Fourth Edition, Completing 21,000_) - -which contains clearly written articles dealing with Sprains, Cuts, -Bruises, Fractures, Haemorrhage, etc., and Illustrated Articles on -Bandaging, Slings, etc. - - _Large Crown 8vo., 870 pages, 388 illustrations._ - PRICE =7s. 6d.= NET - (_or by post, 7s. 11d._) - -'The descriptions are marvellously clear and detailed as well as -discriminating as to the importance of the subject described. The -Dictionary is altogether admirable, and will prove itself useful alike -to the junior student, the nurse, the ship captain, or such as cannot -command expert attention in time of sickness or accident.'--_Glasgow -Herald._ - -_CAN BE HAD OF ANY BOOKSELLER._ - -PUBLISHED BY A. & C. BLACK, 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. - - - - -Awarded Silver Medal, Automobile Club Show, Richmond, 1899. - - CARLESS' STANDARD PETROL, - THE BEST MOTOR SPIRIT MANUFACTURED. - MOVRIL for all Pleasure Cars. - CARBUS for Taxicabs, Commercial Vehicles, Etc. - -_Either in Round or Square Cans._ _First English Manufacturers._ - -LUBRICATING OILS AND GREASES. - - CARLESS, CAPEL & LEONARD, - HACKNEY WICK, LONDON, N.E. - -Telegrams: 'Carless, Hackney Wick.' -Telephone: East 1310. - - - - -_Applications for Advertisements in subsequent issues of the 'Motor -Routes' Series should be addressed to the Sole Agents_-- - -G. Street & Co., Ltd., - - 8, SERLE STREET, - LINCOLN'S INN, LONDON, W.C. - _or_ 30, CORNHILL, E.C. - - - - -BLACK'S GUIDE BOOKS - - -=Bath and Bristol.= 6d. net. - -=Belfast and the North of Ireland.= 1s. net. - -=Bournemouth.= 6d. net. - -=Brighton and Environs.= 6d. net. - -=Buckinghamshire.= 1s. net. - -=Buxton and the Peak Country.= 1s. net. - -=Canterbury and East Kent.= 1s. net. - -=Channel Islands.= 1s. net. - - Cloth, with extra Maps, 2s. 6d. net. - -=Cornwall and Scilly Islands.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Derbyshire.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Devonshire.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Dorsetshire.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Dublin and the East of Ireland.= 1s. net. - -=Edinburgh.= 6d. net. - -=English Lakes.= 3s. 6d. net. - -=English Lakes.= Cheap Edition, 1s. net. - -=Exeter and East Devon.= 1s. net. - -=Galway and West of Ireland.= 1s. net. - -=Glasgow and the Clyde.= 6d. net. - -=Guernsey, Herm, Sark, and Alderney.= 6d. net. - -=Hampshire.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Harrogate.= 1s. net. - -=Ilfracombe, Lynton, Bideford, etc.= 6d. net. - -=Ireland.= 5s. net. - -=Ireland.= Cheap Edition. 1s. net. - -=Isle of Man.= 1s. net. - -=Isle of Wight.= 1s. net. - -=Jersey.= 6d. net. - -=Kent.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Kent, East (Canterbury, Margate, Ramsgate, etc.).= 1s. net. - -=Kent, West (Tunbridge Wells, Maidstone, etc.).= 1s. net. - -=Killarney and the South of Ireland.= 1s. net. - -=Leamington, Stratford, etc.= 1s. net. - -=Liverpool and District.= 1s. net. - -=London and Environs.= 1s. net. - -=Around London, Complete.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Around London, North.= 6d. net. - -=Around London, West.= 6d. net. - -=Around London, South.= 6d. net. - -=Manchester and Salford.= 1s. net. - -=Margate and the East of Kent.= 1s. net. - -=Matlock, Dovedale and Central Derbyshire.= 1s. net. - -=Moffat.= 1s. net. - -=Plymouth and South Devon.= 1s. net. - -=Scotland.= 7s. 6d. net. - -=Scotland.= Cheap Edition. 1s. net. - -=Scotland, East Central.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Scotland, North.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Scotland, West and South-West.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Scotland, South-East.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Sherwood Forest.= 6d. net. - -=Somerset.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Surrey.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Sussex.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Torquay and the South Hams.= 6d. net. - -=Trossachs and Loch Lomond.= 1s. net. - -=Tunbridge Wells and West Kent.= 1s. net. - -=Wales, North.= 3s. 6d. net. - -=Wales, South.= 3s. 6d. net. - -=Wales.= Cheap Edition, 1s. net. - -=What to see in England.= Illustrated. 2s. 6d. net. - -=Wye, The.= 1s. net. - - -Black's Foreign Guide Books - -=Belgium=: Its Churches, Chimes, and Battlefields. 2s. 6d. net. - -=Brittany with Touraine.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Cairo of To-day.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Constantinople.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Holland.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Jerusalem.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Normandy:= Its Castles and Churches. 2s. 6d. net. - -=Paris.= 1s. net. - -=Riviera,= or the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn. 2s. 6d. -net. - -=Rome.= 2s. 6d. net. - -=South France, East Half.= PART I. The Riviera. 2s. 6d. net. - -=South France, West Half (the Pyrenees).= 2s. 6d. net. - -=Spain and Portugal (O'Shea).= 10s. 6d. net. - -=Switzerland= (with Cycling Supplement). 3s. 6d. net. - -_These Guide Books may be obtained through any bookseller at home or -abroad._ - - -The Pilgrimage Series - -_Large Crown 8vo., cloth, price_ =3s. 6d.= _net each. Containing 32 or -more Illustrations._ - -=The Blackmore Country.= By F. J. SNELL. - -=The Burns Country.= By C. S. DOUGALL. - -=The Dickens Country.= By F. G. KITTON. - -=The Hardy Country.= By C. G. HARPER. - -=The Ingoldsby Country.= By C. G. HARPER. - -=The Scott Country.= By the Rev. W. S. CROCKETT. - -=The Thackeray Country.= By LEWIS MELVILLE. - -PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK . SOHO SQUARE . LONDON, W. - - - - -Daimler - - -Since the introduction of the New Daimler Engine the Company have been -honoured with orders for more than =_4,200_= Cars, among the Purchasers -being:-- - - H.M. THE KING - H.M. THE QUEEN - H.M. QUEEN ALEXANDRA - H.I.M. THE CZAR - H.I.M. THE DOWAGER EMPRESS OF RUSSIA - H.M. THE KING OF SPAIN - H.R.H. THE DUKE OF SPARTA - H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCESS OF SWEDEN - H.R.H. PRINCESS HENRY OF BATTENBERG - H.R.H. THE GRAND DUCHESS VLADIMIR - H.R.H. THE DUKE OF CONNAUGHT - H.R.H. PRINCE ARTHUR OF CONNAUGHT - THE AMEER OF AFGHANISTAN - -THE DAIMLER COMPANY LTD. - -COVENTRY - - - - - A 'JONES' SPEEDOMETER - on your Car GUARANTEES - an =ACCURATE READING= of your =SPEED= and =MILEAGE=. - -(_Vide_ the Royal Auto. Club's Award in their only Official Speed -Trials.) - -For =Accuracy=, =Reliability=, and =Durability=. - -=_Prices from 4 Guineas upwards._= - -WRITE FOR BROCHURE TO SOLE IMPORTERS: - - MARKT & CO. (LONDON) LTD., - 6, CITY ROAD, LONDON, E.C. - - - - - LLANGOLLEN. - THE HAND HOTEL - On the Banks of the Dee. - -One of the most convenient in this 'Lovely Vale,' and second to none -for comfort, catering, and situation. - -=60 BEDROOMS.= - -=LARGE PRIVATE SITTING-ROOMS.= - -ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. GOLF. - -=_EXTENSIVE MOTOR GARAGE FOR 40 CARS._= - -FAVOURITE STOPPING-PLACE BETWEEN LONDON AND HOLYHEAD. - -=_Posting in all its Branches._= - -Address--JAMES S. SHAW, Resident Proprietor, - -HAND HOTEL, LLANGOLLEN. - -_National Telephone No. 7._ - - - - - Clerical, Medical & General - Life Assurance Society. - _Established 1824._ - - -DEATH DUTIES. - -For the cheapest and most effective method of providing for these, see -the Society's - -Death Duties Leaflet. - - -CHIEF OFFICE: - -15, ST. 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