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diff --git a/4322.txt b/4322.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9a59f3c --- /dev/null +++ b/4322.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1944 @@ +The Project Gutenberg Etext of My Three Days In Gilead, by Elmer U. Hoenshel + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before distributing this or any other +Project Gutenberg file. + +We encourage you to keep this file, exactly as it is, on your +own disk, thereby keeping an electronic path open for future +readers. Please do not remove this. + +This header should be the first thing seen when anyone starts to +view the etext. 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Hart +and may be reprinted only when these Etexts are free of all fees.] +[Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be used in any sales +of Project Gutenberg Etexts or other materials be they hardware or +software or any other related product without express permission.] + +*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.10/04/01*END* + + + + + + +Produced by Robert Rowe, Charles Franks +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + +My Three Days in Gilead + + + + + + I love to breathe where Gilead sheds her balm; + I love to walk on Jordan's banks of palm; + I love to wet my foot in Herman's dews; + I love the promptings of Isaiah's muse; + In Carmel's holy grots I'll court repose, + And deck my mossy couch with Sharon's deathless rose. + --J. PIERPONT. + + + + + +MY THREE DAYS IN GILEAD + +By Elmer U. Hoenshel, D. D., + +Principal of Shenandoah Collegiate Institute and School of Music + + + + + +In profound gratitude, this little volume is dedicated to the +memory of William Barakat of Jerusalem. + +My faithful, careful dragoman, who in manhood's prime, yet not +many months before his death, guided me in safety, not only during +my trying "Three Days in Gilead," but also throughout an extended +tour otherwhere in his native land--the Holy Land of my faith. + +THE AUTHOR + + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +At last, after waiting twenty leaden-winged years from the time in +which a fixed purpose was formed in me to visit the Orient, the +realization came. The year that saw the fulfillment of my +cherished ambition was definitely determined upon eight summers +before it took its place in the calendar of history. Fortune +smiled upon my plan. I was ready. My joy was akin to ecstasy. + +Imagine my disappointment when, in the month of May of my chosen +year, 1900, I learned that no agency would organize a tourist +party to move at a time in the summer or autumn that would suit +me! There was but one alternative--to travel independent of any +organization. This I would do. The decision to do so brought +instant and happy relief. + +At no time in my period of absence of five months did I meet a +single former acquaintance. I planned every move, and held myself +in every way responsible for results. The experience I thus gained +in the many countries visited I value highly. Not infrequently I +found myself in trying situations; but all ended well. To-day, in +my inventory of life's rich and helpful experiences, though it +were possible for me to do it, I would not eliminate one of these. +It was a kind Providence that denied me the luxury of a place in a +modern "personally conducted" tourist party. + +A few articles descriptive of certain experiences have been +written by me for publication. Some themes I have presented on the +lecture platform a few hundred times. My auditors, universally, +have been kind in their criticisms. Many have been the requests +that I write a volume reciting the story of my travels. In +response I have steadily refused. Many books on travel have +appeared in recent years, possibly too many; but I have seen very +little that has been written about the trans-Jordanic highlands. +And it is not strange, for, though multitudes of tourists annually +visit Palestine, not one person out of a thousand of them ever +goes east of the Jordan. And is it worth while? We shall see. + +On my trip I tried to identify no biblical site; I tried to locate +no city of antiquity; I dug into no mound; I disturbed no ruin. +All this I left to the geographer, the historian, and the +archaeologist who had preceded me, or who should come after me. +True, with the help of my Bible, map, guide-book, and guide, I +formed opinions, and was happy in the fitness of some of them; +but, in the main, I was content to rest in the conclusions reached +by those who had studied scientifically and reverently every hill +and valley and ruin in this neglected region. + +But my observation and experience no other has had. I know of no +other who mapped out or traveled the route chosen by me. I sought +and expected much; I found and experienced more. And though eight +years have passed since my journeyings in Gilead, yet so fresh is +the memory of those days that I need make but slight reference, as +I write, to the notes that were then written. Often, in recent +years, I have found myself lingering in thought on some high ridge +looking out over an extended panorama filled with sacred +associations, or silently gazing up into the strangely impressive +Oriental sky by night. Even as I write I seem to catch again a +perfume-laden breeze, bearing repose to my weary soul. And if the +memory of this land seen in its desolation is so refreshing to a +foreigner, what must not the possession of the real in the days of +its fatness have been to the weary, battle-scarred Israelites who +secured permission to abide here! + +So, in response to the call of my friends, and with the hope of +adding somewhat to the meager fund of information concerning a +once famous district, or, at least, to create additional interest +in the territory occupied by the tribe of Gad in the days of early +allotment, I undertake to tell the story of "My Three Days in +Gilead." + +Dayton, Virginia, February 20, 1909. + + + + + +Contents + + +Chapter I. "Waiting at Damascus" +Chapter II. "Through Bashan" +Chapter III. "Among Bedouins" +Chapter IV. "At Gerasa" +Chapter V. "Up Into the Mountains" +Chapter VI. "By the Watch-Tower" +Chapter VII. "Down to the Jordan" +Chapter VIII. "At the Bridge" + + + + + +"Waiting at Damascus" + +CHAPTER I. + + +Damascus! A city that numbers the years of its existence in +millenniums; that witnessed in the dawn of history the migration +of Abraham as he went out from Ur to a land not known to him, and +to whom she gave one of the best of her sons; that sent out the +leper, Naaman, to Palestine for healing and received him back +whole; that hailed with great preparations the coming of Elisha, +who had previously blinded her army at Dothan; that welcomed Saul +of Tarsus in his blindness, restored his sight, and sent him, +transformed in his life, to transform Asia Minor and classic +Europe. Damascus! A city surviving an age-long struggle with the +encroaching desert--a struggle that must go on through ages to +come; but, as long as the Abana and Pharpar continue to flow, the +sands that would bury her forever in oblivion will be changed into +a soil of life-giving and life-sustaining fertility sufficient to +support her thousands of inhabitants. Damascus! A city of the long +ago, practically unchanged, where the Occidental may look to-day +with unfeigned interest upon architecture, costumes, and customs +similar to those that prevailed in the East while Greece and Rome +were yet young. Damascus! A city celebrated for a thousand years +for its bazaars, work-shops, and roses; a city so beautiful +thirteen hundred years ago that Mohammed, viewing it for the first +time from a distance, is said to have exclaimed: "Man can have but +one paradise. My paradise is heaven; I cannot enter yonder city!" +a city to-day of unsurpassed beauty, when viewed from the +distance, with its white domes and slender minarets rising above +the shrubbery and trees of its thirty thousand gardens. Here in +this old city; in this historic city; in this beautiful city; in +Damascus, I greet you and extend to you an invitation to join me +in my proposed trip through Gilead. + +My party as yet consists of but two persons. My dragoman, William +Barakat, of Jerusalem, in response to a telegram sent from +Constantinople, met me several days ago at Beyrout. He is a native +Syrian, talks good English, dresses like an American, (save that +he wears a red fez,) and is a Christian in faith. Before reaching +this city he has already rendered me excellent service. He is +intelligent, having attended the American College at Beyrout. I +can trust him. + +My arrangements with my guide are simple. He is to take me over my +desired route by best possible methods of travel; to furnish the +best of fare and lodging obtainable; to guarantee me a safe +escort; and he is to do all this within a specified time and for a +stipulated price. I did not then know how little I was asking as +to fare and lodging, but when I knew that he was fulfilling his +part of the agreement I had little cause for just complaint. + +By early dawn, on October thirtieth, we had breakfasted and had +bidden good-by to all the servants about the hotel, (many of whom +I did not know to exist, but who, somehow, had learned of me, and +had risen thus early to witness my departure and to ask a fee for +services that I am quite sure some of them had had no part in +rendering,) and had ordered the driver to lose no time in reaching +the station of the Damascus-Hauran Railroad, about two miles +distant. But, notwithstanding the early hour, the streets were +already crowded with people, mules, donkeys, dogs, and other +things. It was only with great effort that we could make any +headway, and at times it seemed that the crowd, angered at our +persistence, would stop us entirely in our struggle to pass +through. We did the best we could, but we missed the train. Since +there were ONLY THREE TRAINS A WEEK on that road, it meant that I +must go back to that same hotel and spend two more days in +Damascus at the rate of ten dollars a day, and then, again, on +leaving, must fee those same servants for service that I did not +want, and, generally speaking, did not get. But, though the +disappointment was great, it brought additional opportunity to +study the wonders and ways of the wonderful city wherein I was +forced to remain. + +A second time my dragoman prepares food for our journey; and +again, on the morning of November first, we hurry to the station. +This time we do not miss the train--we wait for it--and we wait a +long time; but with the waiting there is contentment, for, if the +train move south, I, too, am sure of going. + + + + + +"Through Bashan" + +CHAPTER II. + + +At the time of this writing there is a railroad extending from +Damascus to Mecca, but at the time of my visit the terminus was at +Mezarib, a small town about fifty miles south of Damascus, near +the northern boundary-line of Gilead. It was in my plan to travel +that distance by rail; hence my presence at the city railroad +station. + +The ride to Mezarib, through Bashan, especially that part of it +now known as the Hauran, is one of more than ordinary interest. +For the first twenty-five miles the land is literally covered with +black basaltic rocks, as is also part of the remaining distance. +How it is cultivated I can scarcely understand, for I am sure that +the American horse could not be made to serve well here. But I was +told that the natives do cultivate it, and that they raise +excellent crops of grain. When I looked upon them at work with +their crude wooden plows and brush harrows, and then heard that +they raise excellent crops of grain, I was satisfied that the land +must be very fertile; and I was reminded of a certain humorist's +remark about the fertility of some land in Kansas, of which he +said, "All you need to do is to tickle the ground with a hoe, and +it will laugh with a big harvest." Farther on the rocks almost +entirely disappear, and there is spread out a beautiful valley, +extending far to the south, whose fertility and pasturage +attracted the Israelites on their march to Canaan, and which, ever +since, has caused the name "Bashan" to be a synonym for "plenty." +And, because of its abundant production of grain, which finds a +ready market in Damascus, it has been aptly called the "granary of +Damascus." + +The manner in which this grain is put on the market is quite novel +to me. I see hundreds of camels loaded with large sacks of grain +moving with slow, swinging tread toward Damascus, or returning +unloaded to the desert. The camels proceed in single file, usually +ten or more in a train, and each is led by means of a rope +fastened to the animal next in front--the rope of the foremost of +all being fastened to the saddle of a donkey, on which the owner, +or driver, usually rides. Many grindstones also are shipped from +this country, one large stone constituting a load for a camel. +This land is, also a great grazing region, and for more than three +thousand years Bashan has been celebrated for its fine breed of +cattle. + +Some distance south of Damascus I cross the headwaters of the +Pharpar River, whose clear, sparkling water Naaman considered much +more suitable for a general's bath than the muddy water of the +Jordan. At my place of crossing an athlete could clear the stream +at a single bound. + +The distant scenery deserves more than a passing notice, though +but little more can be given here. Off to the west, in plain view, +is Mount Hermon, whose towering, snow-capped summit in all +probability looked upon the transfigured person of the Son of Man. +To the east is the Lejah, in, or near which is Edrei, where Og, +the giant king of Bashan, was slain in the attempt to hold his +realm against the home-seeking Israelites under the leadership of +Moses. South of the Lejah are the Hauran Mountains, now occupied +by the Druses, a people of a peculiar religious faith--a faith +which is a mixture of Mohammedan, Christian, and Zoroastrian +elements. One of their beliefs is that the number of souls in +existence never varies. "Accordingly, all the souls now in life +have lived in some human form since the creation, and will +continue to live till the final destruction of the world." To them +prayer is thought to be an unwarrantable interference with the +Almighty. They, having colonized this mountain, are at present +causing the Turkish government much trouble. They number about +90,000, and are almost continuously at war with the neighboring +Bedouin tribes. And because of the feuds which prevail here, it is +expected, and I believe is a matter of law, that all visitors to +this region must have an escort either of soldiers or Bedouins. +Were not robbery and bloodshed so prevalent in the East-Jordan +country, its ruins and scenery would attract hundreds of tourists +where now but a few ever suffer their curiosity or interest in +Bible lands to turn them aside from the beaten paths of travel. In +my course I pass through a portion of the land of which we read in +Deut. 3:3-5, noted for its many "rock cities." I look upon the +ruins of a number of these, but have little opportunity for a +close examination. The most noted ruins that I see are at Sunamein +and at Mezarib. But those who have pressed farther east, and who +have made a careful study of the best preserved of these "rock +cities" of Bashan, tell us that everything about them is of stone- +doors, gates, windows, stairs, rafters, galleries, cupboards, +benches, and even candlesticks. So perfectly preserved are some of +these "dead cities," that of one, Salcah, Doctor Porter says that +some five hundred of the houses are still standing, and that "from +three hundred to four hundred families might settle in it at any +moment without laying a stone or expending an hour's labor on +repairs." Of Beth-gamul another traveler says in part: "The houses +were some of them very large, consisting usually of three rooms on +the ground floor, and two on the first story, the stairs being +formed of large stones built in the house walls, and leading up +outside. The doors were, as usual, of stone; sometimes folding +doors, and some of them highly ornamental. I wandered about quite +alone in the old streets of the town--entered one by one the old +houses, went up-stairs, visited the rooms, and, in short, made a +careful examination of the whole place; but so perfect was every +street, every house, every room, that I almost fancied I was in a +dream, wandering alone in this city of the dead, seeing all +perfect, yet not hearing a sound. "Much of the work in most of +these cities is on such a large scale as to indicate that the +houses were built by, and intended for a race of giants. When we +think of these fortresses of strength defended by their mighty +occupants, and remember that they were probably in existence at +the time of the exodus of the Israelites from Egyptian bondage, +the victories of Moses gained here become sublime. + +We are nearing Mezarib. All forenoon has been consumed in covering +a distance of only about fifty miles. But by twelve o'clock we +have passed almost completely across the land where Og was king, +especially that part of his kingdom which, not long after being +wrested from him and his giant followers, was assigned to the +eastern half-tribe of Manasseh for a permanent possession. + +Before leaving Beyrout my dragoman telegraphed to Jerusalem for a +muleteer and three horses to be sent to this railroad terminus. +Must we be disappointed in this! We are both solicitous. My guide +is leaning far out of the car window long before the train stops +to learn, if possible, whether or not his order has been obeyed. I +watch that dark, anxious, perplexed face with much solicitude. Ah, +he smiles! The sunshine of satisfaction chases the clouds of +anxiety and doubt from his countenance, and that dark face looks +beautiful to me. He is happy, and I share in his happiness. Our +muleteer and horses are awaiting us. + + + + + +"Among Bedouins" + +CHAPTER III. + + +At twelve o'clock our train stopped. I was quickly introduced to +him who had been awaiting us, and who was now to join our party-- +"Haleel," of Jerusalem. He was dressed in typical Eastern fashion, +wearing the wide pantaloons, flowing robe, and "kufiyeh"; he was +apparently twenty-five years old, dark-skinned, and blind in one +eye; he could not speak a word of English; and he was a devout +Mohammedan. "Haleel, of Jerusalem!" Notwithstanding his fantastic +appearance, the name and place of residence seemed to me a +blending of mystery and sacredness. I did not hesitate to extend a +cordial greeting, and his smile of confused interest as I tried to +shake hands with him while he tried to give me an Oriental +salutation won me to him. It was his only intelligible language to +me, but it was sufficient to give me assurance of his friendship, +and I was beginning to feel that from that hour I should need +friends. The salutation that Haleel offered to me was a quick, +graceful movement of his hand toward my feet, next to his lips, +and then lightly to his forehead. I had seen the natives do this +in exchanging salutations, and now that it had been offered to me +I sought an interpretation. My guide explained that Haleel meant +to tell me that he felt so honored in meeting me, that he "would +take the dust from my feet, would kiss it, and then place it on +his forehead." Beautiful sentiment! Had I ever previously in my +life been so honored in meeting any one! + +The greeting over, I noticed unusual movements about the station. +Many Turkish soldiers were there. They stood about in groups +engaged in animated conversation. Upon inquiry I learned that the +feuds so common in that region were again "on," and that the +soldiers were there to quell lawlessness. As I was the only +tourist there I became an object of special interest. Some of the +men came to my dragoman, and only a few words had passed until I +knew that I was the subject of their conversation. I could +occasionally catch the word "hawadje," which means "master," and I +knew they were referring to me. Then they would look at me and +shake their heads. I was anxious to know what it all meant, but +had to be content with what my guide was pleased to tell of it. He +seemed to have gained his point, but he told me nothing except to +prepare for a hard trip, as a day's distance must be covered, if +possible, before nightfall. As we had already lost two days in +Damascus, I was not averse to trying something strenuous in order +to make up in part for that loss. I felt quite equal to the task, +(though it proved to be a severe ordeal,) when it was explained to +me that it would require a ride of more than forty miles to reach +a safe halting-place for the night. My guide had planned it; and I +was committed to the plan. + +After a hurried lunch, eaten in the tent of an Arab, I prepare +for,--I know not what. I put on my leggings and head-gear. Then I +give over my luggage, which consists of a suit-case, hand-grip, +umbrella, and alpenstock, to Haleel. I keep my overcoat, not +because the weather is cold,--it is hot,--but because I think I +may possibly need it as a kind of cushion for my saddle before the +day is over. The need was felt, and SORELY felt quite early in the +afternoon; but most of the time we rode too rapidly for my +overcoat to supply the need,--it just would not stay where I had +hoped it might serve me well. So it happened that I was destined +to experience on that ride such misery as I had scarcely thought +one could endure. But, I anticipate. + +We are ready. I am anxious to be going. I am delighted when my +horse, a beauty, indeed, and of pure Arabian stock, is led up by +two dusky sons of the desert. Surely my long trip to Jerusalem +will be one of pleasure when I am mounted on such a steed! At +half-past twelve o'clock we mount, and, facing to the south, we +set off at a brisk pace for Gerasa, (known to the Arabs as +Jerash,) where it has been planned that we shall spend the night. +Several of the natives accompany us a short distance on foot, one +running on either side of my horse and holding to the bridle; but +soon, with interesting and graceful salaams, they leave us to +pursue our hot and dusty way alone. + +There are just three of us, and we proceed in the following order: +my dragoman, who is guide and interpreter, leads the way; I follow +next after him; bringing up the rear is our muleteer, who takes +charge of all luggage, cares for the horses, and especially for,-- +me. Why should I not be happy? For the first time in my life I +have two men engaged to look after my wants. They did their duty +well,--were almost painfully attentive at times. But to-day I +thank them for their kind severity. + +Not having spent more than a few hours on horse-back in the +previous ten years, I found, after riding a few miles, that it +required more than a beautiful horse to make riding comfortable to +an inexperienced rider. But our way led through such a beautiful +valley, and on either hand were mountains so suggestive of Bible +narrative that there was much in the earlier part of the afternoon +to divert my attention from any physical discomfort. Where we were +riding there was no road,--simply bridle-paths, and frequently not +even a path. + +After we had been riding for an hour a young Arab on camel-back +joined us. I did not like his searching looks from a face almost +hidden in his head-garment. But he stayed with us for a half-hour, +and in that time had raced his camel with our horses; then he +suddenly turned from us toward the near mountains of Gilead. We +met a number of caravans in the earlier part of the afternoon, and +I noted that every man that I saw carried a gun, or some sort of +sword, or large knife. They were ready for defense, if occasion +should arise. + +About two o'clock we passed a "memorial heap," or cairn. Some +tragedy occurred there, and the custom of the region is that the +passer-by places reverently on the pile of rocks already formed an +additional stone. Elsewhere I had seen this done when it seemed to +me the actor was under the spell of a superstitious fear. + +About the middle of the afternoon a soldier, full armed, dashes up +to us in a mad gallop, hands a message to my dragoman, and then as +rapidly rides back again. I am a little alarmed at this until I +learn that he has entrusted a writing to us to be delivered in +Jerusalem. A little later I see another soldier leave the group in +which he is riding and gallop ahead across the open way to the +brow of a hill. There he dismounts, lays down his gun, takes the +robe, or blanket, on which he rode, spreads it upon the ground, +faces toward Mecca, and prostrates himself in prayer. The prayer +over, he dashes down to his party and they are off like the wind. + +About four o'clock we passed near a little village, the only place +where I saw a house on that long afternoon ride. It is not safe +for any one to live outside the villages; hence there are no +isolated dwellings in all this region. We did not halt for one +moment, but kept pressing steadily on. + +After five o'clock the plain was deserted; we saw from that time +neither man nor beast. I was cramped and painfully tired, and +feeling that if I could but walk for a few minutes it would be +quite a relief, I dismounted--quite a difficult thing to do and +keep from sprawling upon the ground. But I was no sooner off my +horse than Haleel was beside me, and my dragoman, who was at that +time nearly a hundred yards ahead of me, rode back and sternly +commanded: "You get right back on that horse; this is no time to +think of walking; you can do that some other time." Inwardly I +resented it; how could I stand it longer! I blamed it on the +saddle, then I thought that they must have given me the worst +horse of the three. But all this helped nothing. They assisted me +again into the saddle. Then my guide delivered a little speech in +Arabic to Haleel. I did not then understand it, but shortly after +I learned the essence of it; it was, "You keep your eye on him and +see that he keeps his horse moving." When I found myself again in +the saddle I determined that if I must ride there would be no more +trotting of my horse,--I would proceed as gently as possible. But, +alas! Haleel had his whip and my dream of controlling my horse was +over. After that I kept close to my dragoman. At that time I +thought it harsh treatment, but later I understood. + +We have reached the limit of level land and are now winding among +the eastern foot-hills of the mountains of Gilead. It is the hour +of sunset and the great orb of day sinks in sad beauty to me. In +the twilight I see here and there half-buried pillars of some +famous temple--a temple that surely never stood here. Our horses +are wet with sweat; we have not halted for lunch; not a drop of +water has been seen; night is coming on with its pale moon casting +weird shadows about us; we are alone in a land noted for its +lawlessness, and yet we are unarmed. We move on almost in silence. +There is silence about us, save for the cry now and then of some +night-bird. We see no lights save those above us. My guide seems +bewildered and uncertain as to the location of the town we seek. I +am faint from weariness, and so cramped that at times it is with +difficulty that I keep from falling to the ground. I am now quite +solicitous as to our safety and not a little alarmed when our way +leads through some rocky, narrow passage suggestive of a lurking- +place for men of evil intent. But at last, at half-past nine +o'clock, after being in the saddle for nine hours, I am aroused +from my stupor by a joyful exclamation from my dragoman. A few dim +lights are seen,--IT IS GERASA! + +My dragoman continued his exclamations of praise thus, "I thank my +God for saving my life once more." I said faintly, "Why such +words?" "Well," he said, "all natives are expected to be in their +villages by sundown, tourists at their destination earlier. It is +the custom of this region that tourists must have an escort of +soldiers or Bedouins, even in times of peace; and now THE FEUDS +ARE ON; and here we have come alone, at night, unarmed; and I am +responsible for these horses--they are not mine--and for your +life. The ride may have been hard for you, but the hours of +anxiety were more trying to me. I have now done it once, but I'll +never again assume such a risk--NOT EVEN FOR A MILLION POUNDS!" I +had no response that he heard, but mentally I said, "Never again +with ME, Mr. Barakat. NO, NEVER! + +Yet I think I never experienced greater joy on entering my own +home than on that night when entering and riding through the +crooked, narrow lanes of that miserable village of Gilead. + + + + + +"At Gerasa" + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Though in the village, and therefore relieved of the feeling of +special danger, yet we had much difficulty in securing lodging for +the night. Our arrival seemed to disturb the peace of dogdom in +what otherwise would have been a quiet resting-place. No people +were outside their houses. We picked our way to the nearest light; +the occupant of the house would not come out, but showed his face +at the window--a hole in the wall about a foot square. My dragoman +pleaded for lodging, but in vain. We sought the next house in +which there was a light, but neither would the people of that home +open to us. We tried several other places, but at all of them we +were refused admission. They seemed to look with suspicion upon +our visit to the village. But, finally, a good old Mohammedan +consented to let us spend the night in his rock hut, and gave us +the privilege of putting our horses in his little walled space by +the house. Haleel must spend the night in this yard--he always +slept with the horses. When my dragoman helps me over the stone +door-sill, and we enter the hut, we find that the part allotted to +men consists of but one small room, having a floor of earth on +which are spread a couple of mats. In this room there is no +furniture. Two persons are already asleep on the floor. We do not +disturb them. + +Not having eaten anything since noon, my dragoman begins at once +to prepare a light lunch for us. On a brazier that he finds here +he makes a little charcoal fire and quickly brews some of the tea +brought from Damascus; into this he squeezes lemon juice; then +finding some bread that he had stowed away in his saddle-bags, our +lunch is ready. I sit on the floor as comfortable as I can make +myself while he is getting supper. The flickering light, the +shifting shadows, the strange ones lying asleep, the almost as +strange dusky helpers, the sense of dangers just escaped, the +whining, wailing, barking dogs, my physical pain--all these things +beget within me a strange feeling of loneliness and a longing for +home. Again and again I ask myself the question, "Why did you +undertake this; why were you not content to go down from Damascus +to Galilee and all of West Palestine by the easy way?" But, again +and again I say to myself: "You would never have been satisfied +had you done so; this is part of the price to be paid for what you +wanted; consider what you get in exchange, value received." + +But my reverie is cut short by a groan from my dragoman; he sank +back trembling and said, "Call Haleel!" Together we worked with +him for a half-hour or more until a chill, the result of drinking +too much water on reaching the village, had been overcome. I was +much alarmed at the possible outcome of his sudden illness, for +had he left me thus the situation for me would have been one of +extreme perplexity. In my anxiety for him I forgot for the moment +my own condition. But now I am again a conscious sufferer. So +tired am I that I can scarcely wait until I have sipped a little +tea and eaten a little bread before I have removed hat and shoes +and am stretched out upon the floor to sleep. The horses seem +restless in their stamping; the dogs keep up their barking; the +room is dark; I hear the heavy breathing of those about me; a lone +star peeps in through the small window; and I try to compose +myself for the rest that I so much need. "Is there no balm in +Gilead?" Yes. I thought that I was lying down to a night of +restlessness and fever, but never on couch of down has my rest +been sweeter. + +I am awakened at dawn by some one moving about in the room, and I +see a man pick up a gun and pass quickly out. The dogs are barking +savagely throughout the village. Then I look about me. Imagine my +surprise when I discover that I have had five bed-fellows, or +rather FLOOR-FELLOWS! There we lay stretched out in all sorts of +angles and curves--American, Syrian, Circassian; Christian and +Mohammedan--forming a kind of crazy patch-work on the earthen +floor. And imagine my supreme disgust when I discover a big, +dirty, odorous, unshod human foot, erect on the heel and with toes +spread out like a fan, within a few inches of my face! Bah! How +was it that I slept! I turn my face to the wall and soon lose +thought of the disturbing vision in slumber. + +It is quite late when again I wake. The host is sitting on his mat +near me fumbling beads and chanting prayers. Without moving I +watch him for a while and note that he is also interested in me, +and that he now knows that I am awake. I begin an investigation of +myself, and find, to my glad surprise, that while I am stiff and +sore I feel quite refreshed. I dress myself--a simple matter this +morning, simply putting on my shoes--and while my dragoman +prepares our breakfast I exercise myself somewhat by walking down +to an old Roman bridge spanning the small stream flowing through +the village. In this half-hour I get a good general knowledge of +the location of the town, its outline, its magnificent ruins, etc. +But I am not ready yet for sight-seeing. I prefer to listen to the +brook singing its happy way almost hidden among the pink oleanders +that grow in such profusion along its sides. The running water, +the perfume of the flowers, the flood of sunlight--these are like +balm to me after my awful yesterday. Certainly I shall be ready +early to study the ruins of this wonderful, mysterious, ancient +city. + +Breakfast is ready. It consists of boiled eggs, bread, cheese, and +tea. Our table is the floor on which we slept. The male members of +the house-hold join us as we sit on mats around the simple meal. +Our host sends one of the men (a visitor to a Mohammedan home +never meets, and frequently never sees a woman) to bring a little +of his own bread. It does not look at all tempting to me, but I am +told that if I wish to secure my host's friendship I must eat of +it. This I do, but only once, and now he would be almost willing +to die for me should occasion arise. + +After breakfast he shows me some antique coins that he had found, +and when my guide explains that I am an American schoolmaster, he +manifests exceedingly his delight. He almost pulls me out into his +little yard where he had been digging, and where he had unearthed +an inscribed cylindrical block of marble about two feet in +diameter and four feet in length. The lettering is in Greek. He +thinks it must tell of hidden treasure. And so it does to me, but +not of the kind for which he is looking. The inscription is +partially effaced, but I see enough to conclude that it was likely +at one time the pedestal of a statue. + +I next proceed to take a further general view of this celebrated +locality--celebrated, for here are the most noted ruins east of +the Jordan. My first observation is that the present inhabitants, +Circassians, are rapidly despoiling the treasures of antiquity +found here. They take the rocks and pillars of temples that were +once the admiration of a great region and pile them roughly +together, forming a small enclosure; then, in many instances, they +place poles and brush across the top, throw ground on the brush,-- +and their houses are ready for occupancy. There is no regularity +whatever in the plan of the alleys, or lanes, of the present +village. We mount our horses for a further study of these +interesting ruins. + +Gerasa was one of the chief cities of the Decapolis, (the other +nine were Damascus, Hippos, Scythopolis, Dion, Pella, Kanatha, +Raphana, Gadara, and Philadelphia,) and was situated twenty miles +east of the Jordan on one of the northern tributaries of the +Jabbok, and within five miles of the place where the famous +"Moabite Stone" was found. Tristam considers it to-day as +"PROBABLY THE MOST PERFECT ROMAN CITY LEFT ABOVE GROUND." The +present ruins seem to date back to the second century of the +Christian era. A Christian bishop from Gerasa attended the Council +of Seleucia in 359 A.D., and another that of Chalcedon in 451 A.D. +In the thirteenth century this city was in ruins. It was then for +five centuries lost to the eyes of the civilized world. In the +beginning of the thirteenth century a German traveler visited it; +the magnificent ruins of the place amazed him. The same ruins to- +day, or some of them, strike the comparatively few visitors with +awe at the thought of the riches, the gayety, and the power that +once reigned here on the border of the desert. + +The walls of the ancient city are plainly traceable, and formed an +enclosure about a mile square. Three of its gates are fairly well +preserved. On the south side of the city ruins, less than a half +mile distant, stands a triumphal arch forty feet high. Between +this arch and the city wall are the ruins of a great stone pool +and of a circus. The main street lies on the west side of the +stream. It was paved; yet shows ruts worn into the stones by +chariot wheels; and was lined on each side with a row of rock +columns above twenty feet in height, some of which have capitals +representing a high degree of artistic skill in their planning and +execution. Part of this street was arcaded behind the columns +where was the sidewalk. Fronting upon this street were vast +temples and baths, which, though fallen, are yet grand in their +ruins. All along this way lie great blocks of stone and marble and +fallen columns, so numerous that at times our progress is almost +barred. But not all of the columns are fallen; more than two +hundred yet stand on their original bases. About mid-way along the +street it is crossed at right angles by another which is also +lined with columns. Farther on toward the south it widens into an +oval-shaped forum a hundred yards long, surrounded with Ionic +pillars in their original positions. + +Just beyond the forum, elevated somewhat, is a large, well- +preserved temple; and immediately to the right of the temple is a +theater built in the hill-side with seats, stage, and other parts +plainly distinguishable. It is easy to sit in one of these empty +benches and see, as a shadow out of the past, a lively scene +presented on the now deserted stage--the voice of eloquence rings +clear out of the dead centuries, the play-house resounds with the +applause of the shades that fill the seats about me--and, then, +the curtain of mystery is dispelled by the bright sunlight that +floods all the landscape, and I see nothing but ruins everywhere. +The play is over. The shades have gone again to their long home. + +On a commanding position in the north-west quarter stood temples +of vast proportions whose spacious courts, tottering walls, and +forsaken altars speak in eloquent terms of a glory long since +departed. Evidently this was a populous city, for it possessed two +theaters capable of seating many thousands of people. That it was +a religious city, and much given to idolatry, its temples and +altars declare. + +While Josephus speaks of the capture of this city by Alexander +Jannaeus, about 85 B.C., we look in vain for a mention of it in +the Bible. But some recent investigators, notably Dr. Merrill, +(with whom I had the pleasure and honor of conversing,) incline to +the opinion that Gerasa was the original Ramoth-gilead. Dr. +Merrill gives six arguments in favor of his position, which, after +my observations made in the place itself, I feel like accepting. + +If this were Ramoth-gilead, then how much of Bible story clusters +about the spot! It was a "city of refuge"; and over these hills or +up and down this valley rushed the accidental man-slayer to seek +refuge within its gates from the blood-thirsty pursuer. Here Ahab +was slain (I. Kings 22:34-37), here Ahaziah and Jehoram defeated +Hazael (II. Kings 8:28, 29; 9:14), and here Jehu was anointed king +of Israel and rode forth in a chariot to execute his terrible +commission concerning the house of Ahab (II. Kings 9:4-26). + +Gerasa! Beautiful, though in ruins. What glory must once have been +thine! But where are the warriors who passed in triumph through +thy gates? Where are the builders of thy temples? Where are the +the priests who ministered at thy altars? Where are the devotees +who bowed at thy shrines? Where are the people who thronged thy +theaters and trod thy beautiful streets? The hills over which man +walked are still here; the rocks that he quarried, carved, +polished, and fitted into place are here; the stone coffin in +which he lay down to his last resting-place is here--but where is +HE? Gone! gone forever! Surely, how frail is man! How fleeting his +glory! As the waters of thy stream flow on to the Sea of Death, so +has the tide of life which swept through thy streets passed on to +the grave and oblivion. + + + + + +"Up Into the Mountains" + +CHAPTER V. + + +Passing out over the fallen western wall of Gerasa we are +immediately in the ancient cemetery, which extends for a mile, or +nearly so, from the city. Many stone sarcophagi, some of which are +artistically carved, lie scattered about in almost every +conceivable position--some even lying across the tops of others. +But these windowless rock-palaces are all empty. + +Leaving Gerasa, my way leads in a general direction westward over +the mountains of Gilead. The reader must remember that in all this +region there is not a road over which a carriage can be driven, +save that quite recently a few trips have been made from Mezarib +to Gerasa. What are called roads are simply bridle-paths, and, in +many cases, the paths are so indistinct that the guide is more +likely to take you forward with reference to a general direction +than to attempt to lead you by a recognized trail. + +The Mountains of Gilead present a rugged appearance, but, in the +main, are clothed with vegetation; hence they are beautiful in +their majesty. The olive and the prickly oak are abundant. The +villages are not numerous, and are situated far up the slopes, or +even on the tops of the ridges. These villages are clusters of +squalid huts constructed of stone and mud, and can afford no +accommodation such as an American might desire. But, in many +instances, they occupy sites identified with places and events +noted in Bible story. + +These mountains were given to Gad in the allotment of Joshua and +Eleazar. Surely at that time the prospect must have been much more +pleasing than at present, or the Gadites would not have been so +anxious to receive this district as a permanent possession. True, +even now, a few narrow valleys, or wadies, show signs of great +fertility, but the greater part is quite uninviting. Yet to the +tourist there is much of interest in this region. + +My way to the Jordan lay over these mountains, especially that +part known as the Jebel Ajlun. Sometimes it seemed impossible to +proceed because of rocks and underbrush. The mountain sides were +so steep in some places that we were barely able to climb them; +many of the wadies, washed by winter torrents, were next to being +impassable; and when our way led along the sides of precipitous +slopes I shuddered to think of the consequences of a misstep upon +the part of my horse. The course I had chosen through this East- +Jordan country was an unusual one (as already noted)--one over +which my dragoman had never gone, and one over which, he said, not +one in a thousand tourists to Palestine ever asked to go,--a +statement corroborated by the United States Consul at Jerusalem, +who has written extensively on the trans-Jordanic highlands. This +statement was not very encouraging to me, but I had set my heart +on reaching the Jordan by this route, so simply said, "Lead on." +Several times I feared I had made a serious mistake, but having +come thus far I could not go back. After we had passed through the +old cemetery our ascent was gradual until we reached the modern +village of Suf, three miles northwest of Gerasa. Here we see "two +women grinding at the mill." The mill consists of two circular +stones about fourteen inches in diameter, the one stone rests upon +the other, and the grain to be crushed between them is supplied by +one of the women while the other turns the upper stone round and +round, thus grinding the meal for the uninviting bread of their +less inviting floor-table. + +This place has been suggested by Major Condor as the probable site +of Mizpah in Gilead. A group of fine stone monuments, in ruins, is +yet to be seen here. If this be the location of Mizpah then here +is the place where Jacob and Laban made their covenant of lasting +peace, and erected the "heap of witness" (Gen. 31:44-52), saying, +"The Lord watch between me and thee when we are absent one from +another." Then they parted, Laban going back to Mesopotamia and +Jacob pressing on with anxious heart toward the near Jabbok and +the farther lands of his estranged brother Esau. + +Inspired by the covenant at Mizpah, and with a desire to help +others to establish covenants of peace, and to accept with +cheerful resignation enforced separation from loved ones, a recent +writer, Julia A. Baker, has written beautifully the following poem +entitled "Mizpah": + + Go thou thy way and I go mine; + Apart, yet ever near; + Only a veil hangs thin between + The pathways where we are; + And "God keep watch 'tween thee and me," + This is my prayer; + He looks thy way, he looketh mine, + And keeps us near. + + I know not where thy road may lie, + Or which way mine may be; + If mine will lead through parching sands, + And thine beside the sea; + Yet "God keeps watch 'tween thee and me," + So, never fear. + He holds thy hand, he claspeth mine, + And keeps us near. + + Should wealth and fame perchance be thine, + And my lot lowly be, + Or thou be sad or sorrowful, + And glory be for me; + Yet "God keeps watch 'tween thee and me," + Both be his care; + One arm 'round thee and one 'round me + Will keep us near. + + I'll sigh sometimes to see thy face, + But since this cannot be, + I'll leave thee to the care of Him + Who cares for thee and me. + "I'll keep thee both beneath my wings"-- + This comfort dear-- + One wing o'er thee and one o'er me; + So we are near. + + And tho' our paths be separate, + And thy way be not mine, + Yet coming to the mercy-seat, + My soul will meet with thine; + And "God keep watch 'tween thee and me," + I'll whisper there; + He blesseth thee, he blesseth me, + And we are near. + +If this place were Mizpah, then here Jephthah lived; and here, +when he went out to fight against the Ammonites, he made the vow +to sacrifice whatsoever should come forth out of the doors of his +house to meet him on his return from the battle, if the Lord would +only give him the victory. The battle was fought, and Jephthah +triumphed. The glad news reached his home; and out from his house +rushed his daughter, his only child, with timbrels and with +dances, to meet her hero-father, not knowing the nature of his vow +made on the eve of the battle. Her presence caused the brave +warrior to tremble with horror and rend his clothes when he +remembered his vow. The daughter was dismayed--instead of a smile +of joy from her father she read her doom in his blanched and +contorted face. And somewhere on these hills round about the voice +of wailing arose for two months from many maidens because Jephthah +must fulfill his rash vow by sacrificing his only child. But he +did unto her according to his word; and annually thereafter for a +period of four days these hills resounded with the voice of +weeping--the weeping of the maidens of Mizpah over the sad fate of +Jephthah's daughter. (Judges 11.) + +Farther on we ascend a high ridge and then begin our descent into +the southern branch of the wady of Ajlun. After winding about for +some time among the rocks and brush in the dry bed of this wady we +finally halt at Ain Jenneh, a good, strong fountain issuing from +under a great rock. We are yet in the upper reaches of the wady +and near the present village of Ajlun. Here we lunch and rest an +hour. + +Some authorities identify this region as the place where was the +"wood of Ephraim." That being true, it is the place where Absalom +lost his life. Certain it is, even to-day, that to leave the +little path that we are following would mean to become hopelessly +entangled in jungles of prickly oak and other growth. Even in the +path it is with difficulty that I keep my garments from being torn +from me. + +If this be the location of the "wood of Ephraim," then here the +forces of Absalom under Amasa and the armies of David under Joab +fought in those trying days of David's exile. Only a few miles +away, at Mahanaim, David sent out his men, commanding that they +touch not the young man. Then he waited for the news of the +conflict. In the thickets of Gilead the first "battle of the +wilderness" was fought. It was a decisive engagement. Joab's +veterans of many wars were too strong for the rebel's army. +Absalom sought safety in flight, but in trying to ride hurriedly +through the wild tangle his head caught in the branches of a great +oak, and before he could extricate himself, Joab had found him and +thrust him through the heart; then Joab's ten armor-bearers +encompassed the unfortunate victim and finished the deadly work. +And then, though Absalom had reared for himself a beautiful +monument in the king's dale at Jerusalem, they took his body from +the tree and threw it into a pit near by and made a great heap of +stones over it. There was no weeping at the grave of Absalom. + +With the death of Absalom the rebellion was at an end; but David's +heart was broken. He waited at the gate of the city, more +interested in the welfare of his son than in the success of his +army. Swift runners approach! In answer to his question, "Is the +young man safe?" he hears reply that pierces his heart like a +dagger. Up to his chamber over the gate the king slowly passed +weeping and bent with grief, and as he went he said, "O my son +Absalom! my son, my son Absalom! Would God I had died for thee, O +Absalom, my son, my son!" + +A poet's conception of David's great grief on hearing of the death +of his son is portrayed in the following lines of N. P. Willis: + + Alas! my noble boy! that thou shouldst die! + Thou, who wert made so beautifully fair! + That Death should settle in thy glorious eye, + And leave his stillness in thy clustering hair! + How could he mark thee for the silent tomb? + My proud boy, Absalom! + + Cold is thy brow, my son! and I am chill, + As to my bosom I have tried to press thee + How was I wont to feel my pulses thrill, + + Like a rich harp-string, yearning to caress thee, + And hear thy sweet "MY FATHER!" from these dumb + And cold lips, Absalom! + + But death is on thee. I shall hear the gush + Of music, and the voices of the young; + And life will pass me in the mantling blush, + And the dark tresses to the soft winds flung; + But thou no more, with thy sweet voice, shalt come + To meet me, Absalom! + + And oh! when I am stricken, and my heart, + Like a bruised reed, is waiting to be broken. + How will its love for thee, as I depart, + Yearn for thine ear to drink its last deep token! + It were so sweet, amid death's gathering gloom, + To see thee, Absalom! + + And now, farewell! 'Tis hard to give thee up + With death so like a gentle slumber on thee-- + And thy dark sin! Oh! I could drink the cup, + If from this woe its bitterness had won thee. + May God have called thee, like a wanderer, home, + My lost boy, Absalom! + +But this fountain! What birds and beasts here drank undisturbed +before man came to assert his lordship! What multitudes of people +here have drunk from the days before Israel down to the present +time--the hunter, the tiller of the soil, the grape-gatherer, the +shepherd with his flocks, the warrior and his chief,--all rejoiced +and rested here, and were refreshed and strengthened by the water. + +Almost with reverence we drink again; then we remount our horses +and proceed along the wady past the village of Ajlun where an Arab +joins us and guides us on over fertile patches of ground and +through olive groves until we reach the modern town of Coefrinje, +a town that probably contains several thousand inhabitants. It is +in the midst of an olive grove well up on the side of the +mountains. Here, although it is scarcely past the middle of the +afternoon, we stop for the night. It is too far to the next +village to risk going ahead--the way is none too safe, even by +day. + +Several times to-day I could clearly distinguish the remains of +old Roman roads, well paved, and with curbing arrangement +excellently preserved. What vast sums of money and what great +amount of labor must have been expended on these old high-ways of +the time when this territory was occupied by the Romans! And where +Rome walked she left her path well made, and she left the impress +of her thought in rock-paved road, or in the lasting marble of +her pillared temples and carven tombs. + + + + + +"By the Watch-Tower" + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Soon after entering the village of Coefrinje my dragoman had the +rare good fortune to find a former acquaintance, but whom he did +not know to be in those mountains. His name was Elias Mitry, who, +with his wife, had come up from Jerusalem to do missionary work +under the auspices of the Church of England. Although he was a +native of Palestine and talked very poor English, yet he offered +us a welcome to his humble home than which no more royal was +accorded us anywhere. The meeting with my dragoman was an +exhibition of genuine joy, and he seemed equally pleased to have +me in his home; especially did he consider it an honor to be my +host when my dragoman told him that he was escorting a "school- +master" through the land. In that land it seems that the teacher +is almost reverenced because of his profession, while, it may be +said by way of contrast, in some sections of my home land he is +scarcely respected because of his profession. Indeed, I was +treated as a guest of honor; the best that the home afforded was +at my service. Stuffed cucumbers, figs, olives, pomegranates, and +what, for want of a better name, I call "congealed grape-juice," +--all these were placed before me when in the early evening they +aided my guide in serving supper. + +We spent little over four hours in the saddle to-day, so I am not +wearied, and I can give interested attention to the surroundings. +And there is much to interest me here. For, while the name +"Coefrinje" is not mentioned in the Bible, nor is its site +definitely identified with the location of any biblical city, yet +there is much of Bible story centered at points within five miles +of this town. + +Just across the narrow valley, only a few hundred yards distant, +is the height, Kulat er Rubad. It is crowned with the ruins of an +old castle-fortress called (together with the peak on which it +stands) the "watch-tower of Gilead." The view from the dismantled +ramparts is not excelled in this part of the world. It, indeed, +rivals the view from the celebrated peak south of the Jabbok, +Jebel Osha. Dr. Thomson says, "In reality this prospect includes +more points of biblical and historical interest than any other on +the face of the earth." And Dr. Merrill, after enumerating many of +the famous characters of history that moved under the gaze of this +mount of out-look, adds, "The view is more than a picture. It is a +panorama of great variety, beauty, and significance." To me it is +wonderfully impressive. + +As the evening wore on I first gave attention to the large olive- +press close to the mission-house. The press was simple in +construction, consisting of a large bowl-shaped rock from the +center of whose depression rose an upright post of wood; to this +post was fastened a long nearly-horizontal beam, not unlike what +might be seen in the old-time cider-mill or cane-mill; slipped +onto this beam by means of a large hole in its center was a large +stone shaped like a grind-stone; this rock, pushed well up to the +post, rested in the bowl of the other rock. When the natives +pushed or pulled the beam around in tread-mill fashion the +circular stone turned on the beam, and at the same time moved +round and round in the hollow of the other rock. Thus the olives +placed in the bowl-shaped rock were thoroughly crushed and the oil +was caught in vessels. + +Then I watch the shepherds leading their large flocks of sheep and +goats in from the mountain pastures to their folds for the night. +All day these faithful guardians have been with their flocks +seeking good pasture and water for them,--no easy task in the fall +of the year near the end of the dry season. They have guarded the +sheep from the danger of beast, or precipice, or pit; have +released those caught in the under-brush; have ministered to the +needs of the sick; and now as night approaches they come leading-- +not driving--their flocks in quiet movement from out the mountain- +paths to the sheltering fold in the village for the night, again +to lead them forth on to-morrow, and to do likewise day after day. +To see the tender solicitude of the Oriental shepherd for his +sheep adds much to one's appreciation of the beauty and fitness of +the teaching of the Master in his parable of the Good Shepherd. + +But it is near the sunset hour of my only evening in these sacred +mountains. I seek a vantage-ground and watch the King of Day sink +slowly down to his couch of rest behind the western mountains and +the farther sea. Oh, how beautiful! The sky is ablaze with a glory +indescribable by mortal tongue. All space seems vocal with praise +to the God of love and beauty. + +In the strange and peaceful quiet of that evening I felt the +presence of a mysterious, subtle influence stirring within me. In +the shower of gold flung out as a good-night to me, and as the +star of evening smiled down upon me in the purpling twilight and +began calling her myriads of companions to their sentry-posts to +keep watch over me through the hours of the night in that strange +land, I felt, I think, the spirit of the poetry, + + "Sunset and evening star, + And one clear call for me," etc., + +in its fullness. Indeed, the air seemed vibrant with a living +personality, which, without undue stretching of the imagination, I +recognized as the SPIRIT OF HISTORY come to tell me the wonderful +story of those wonderful mountains. Enraptured I listened. + +SAID THE SPIRIT: "Long before Gad was attracted by these heights +and valleys, tribes of people lived here in their simplicity, yet +in sin. The land seemed not different from other lands. Here were +towering wooded mountain, rocky ravine, and strong-flowing +fountain; here the beast prowled among the rocks, the bird nested +in the trees, and the sweet-scented flowers graced all the +landscape. The storms beat upon the mountains and the waters +rushed in madness to the valley in the rainy season, and the sun +scorched the vegetation and dried up the fountains in the dry +season. Thus in monotony centuries passed. + +"But one day the God of heaven sent messengers to encamp here, and +from that time these mountains on which you now stand have been +considered sacred--because pressed by the feet of angels. Yonder +to the northeast, only a little way, is where that event took +place. Jacob, rich in herds and flocks, was on his way home from +far-off Euphrates, but he was much troubled at the thought of +meeting his brother who had sought to take his life about twenty +years previously. He was picking his way slowly over these +mountains leading his company and cattle when there appeared in +his way a host of angels. He was not frightened, but in gladness +of heart he cried out, 'Mahanaim,'--God's host. And although the +wise people of your day are not quite sure as to the exact +location of this meeting, yet be happy in the thought that you are +now only a few miles from the sacred spot, if, indeed, you are not +just where it occurred. Had you then stood here you could have +seen the glorious light of their presence, and could almost have +heard the rustle of their heaven-plumed pinions. + +"After this meeting Jacob wandered a little farther to the south, +and just over yonder, on the Jabbok, he spent a whole night in +prayer and in wrestling with the Angel Jehovah, thinking it was a +mere man. There he gained a great victory over self, and he +received the new name, 'Israel.' And on the next day, a little +farther to the south, he met his erst-while angry and murderous +brother in peace and happy reconciliation. + +"A few centuries pass. Then the mighty Moses conquers all this +region; and a little later these Ajlun Mountains were given to the +tribe of Gad as a permanent home. But, in the course of time, the +native tribes prove troublesome; and then the great Gideon, having +gained a decisive victory down in the valley, followed the fleeing +enemy, 'faint, yet pursuing,' right through this very district. +"Later the Ammonites were punished in a great battle by Israel's +'out-cast,' and mighty warrior, Jephthah. + +"But look again at Mahanaim where Jacob met the angels. The place +in later centuries became a center of other events of interest. +There, after the death of Saul, Ish-bosheth established his +capital, and forth from its gates he sent his armies under Abner +to fight that he might secure the scepter of all Israel to +himself. But after two years of struggle he was treacherously +slain and his cause was hopelessly lost. There, too, David sought +refuge from Absalom; and out from those same gates through which +Ish-bosheth had sent armies against him, David sent armies against +his own son. And there above one of the gates of Mahanaim the +voice of his weeping arose when he heard the news of the death of +his strange misguided boy. + +"Time passed on and the Israelites turned from the God of heaven +to worship at the shrines of other gods. Then, to punish them for +their sin God sent a strange invader into these mountains who +carried away the people by thousands into cruel captivity in a +land far toward the sun-rising. + +"Later the Romans came and planted olive trees and built fine +cities and established enduring roads. But Rome is fallen, and +where she moved in power and splendor ruin only remains, and the +unambitious, ignorant Bedouin feeds his flock and lives in +idleness amidst broken down terraces and thorn-covered fertile +soil. Desolate! Yes, dark is the picture. But, what of the night? +Take your place again on the 'watch-tower of Gilead' and scan well +the horizon. Yes, it is well; the morning cometh!" + +Having given myself up to reverie and to communing with the SPIRIT +OF HISTORY, as it were, I was for a time forgetful of my +surroundings. The twilight had deepened when I again turned my +thoughts to the village and its people. I look up at some of the +houses near me and see a number of the natives in their dark robes +standing like statues on the flat roofs of their homes, yet +watching every movement of the stranger that has so unexpectedly +appeared in their midst. I do not fear them, but somehow a feeling +of unrest steals over me; they seem like shades of departed +Israelites back again from their long sleep. In the gathering +gloom I pass quickly into the mission-house near by. + +This proves to be an evening full of interest to me. I learn that +a mission-service is soon to begin, and that a number of the +villagers will be here for the service. I am impressed with the +quiet (save for the barking of dogs) that prevails in these Arab +villages. I see no drunkenness, and there is no boisterous +rudeness of other sort. + +In a little while a score or more of men come quietly to the +mission-house, remove their sandals, pass into the room, and seat +themselves on the earthen floor against the walls. Mrs. Mitry +beckons to me to come to the door; she wanted me to see that row +of forty sandals. She said in her broken way that it was +interesting to her, and she thought it would interest me. + +It is only a little while until Mr. Mitry enters and takes his +place at a small table in the center of the room. A half hour or +more is spent in smoking cigarettes--almost every native smokes. +Here it seems that the habit is in no sense considered a vice. +Indeed, the missionary himself, not only smokes, but assists in +making cigarettes for the others. They smoke and smoke until the +room is so darkened that we see each other but dimly through the +haze. I am surprised that I can endure it. The tobacco must be +different from that used in America, for ordinarily a single +cigarette is more offensive to me than was the smoke of nearly +fifty on that evening--for some of the men smoked two or three +apiece in that close room. + +After the smoking was over black coffee was served in small cups +holding about one-fourth as much as the average teacup. They sip +this slowly and talk. I note that frequently they are saying +something about "hawadje," and then they fix their eyes upon me. +My dragoman tells me that he has been explaining our hard trip to +Gerasa, that they were skeptical about it, but that he has +convinced them of its verity. + +But now it is time for the service. Mr. Mitry opens his Bible and +reads in Arabic the story of Moses' invitation to Hobab. Then he +expounds the Scripture for some time while the men listen with +rapt attention. There are some questions and answers. I understand +only a word now and then, but it is a picture of more than +ordinary interest to me to look upon the expectant, and then the +satisfied faces of these natives. + +When the lesson was over a request came from the men for me to +speak to them. Through my dragoman as interpreter I spoke a little +while on the theme of the evening, which meant much to me there +where the migration of Moses was in a measure felt by the early +inhabitants. They listened attentively, and when I had finished +they told my guide to say to "hawadje" that they wanted him to +stay and make his home with them. Then, the meeting over, they +moved out into the darkness with graceful "salaams," and with the +promise of one of their number to accompany us on the morrow. They +said we must not go on alone. + +The service-room is now to be my bed-room. A pallet is brought to +me, and on it I am soon trying to sleep. But the beautiful sun- +set, the vision of the past of this region, the mission-service, +the stillness of the night--so still that the very silence seems +audible--keep me awake for some time. I am lying by the "watch- +tower of Gilead." I seem to see the Spirit of Prophecy standing on +its broken battlements, wrapped in the shadows of the night, +looking hopefully toward the place of sun-rising. I call to him, +"Watchman, what of the night?" In sweet tones of assurance comes +the answer, "The morning cometh! The story of the Christ will yet +transform the darkness that rests here into the brightness of +noonday." Then a sweet peace seemed wafted into my soul from out +the unseen somewhere,--but certainly from Him who "giveth his +beloved sleep." + + + + + +"Down to the Jordan" + +CHAPTER VII. + + +It was early on the following morning when our horses were led +around to the door of the mission-house, but notwithstanding the +early hour a dozen or more of the natives were standing in line to +receive medical attention from the missionary. A few were there +who seemed to have come to witness our departure. Our guide, +promised the night before, was on hand, mounted, ready to lead the +way over what proved to be by far the roughest part of my trip. +For that day my party consisted of four persons. Our new leader, +whose name I did not learn, was a man of about fifty years, and +was a genuine Arab in appearance and dress. But he wore nothing on +his feet--not even sandals. I felt better satisfied, knowing that +he would lead the way on that day, for my dragoman was not +familiar with that part of Gilead. However, when toward the middle +of the afternoon we descended into the Jordan Valley, he was quite +at home again. + +Single file we proceed from Coefrinje along a narrow path with the +bushes and briars brushing the sides of our horses and wetting us +with dew. It is not long until we begin to ascend a high ridge. +Here there are no paths whatever, and at times our horses can +scarcely move on because of the steepness of the ascent. But a few +minutes before nine o'clock, after a toilsome struggle, we reach +the summit of the ridge, and here I get my first panoramic view of +the west-Jordan country. It is entrancingly beautiful. + +When we had reined up our horses I said to my dragoman, "Tell our +attendants to be still until I have finished speaking; I want to +explain the scene before us." And then while he listened, and +looked as I directed, I said: "That towering height far to the +north is Mount Hermon; the sheet of water some miles on this side +is the Sea of Galilee; to the west of the Sea of Galilee is +Hattin, the Mount of Beatitudes; that white spot southwest of +Hattin is Nazareth; that great plain south of Nazareth is +Esdraelon, the 'battle-field of Palestine'; these rounded +mountains here in the eastern part of the Valley of Esdraelon are +Tabor, Little Hermon, and Gilboa;--on the north is Tabor, at whose +base Napoleon fought; the next is Little Hermon, where lived the +witch of Endor; and the one south of Little Hermon is Gilboa, +where Saul and his sons were slain; that range of mountains +forming the southern wall of Esdraelon is Carmel, where Elijah +held his trial with the priests of Baal; here below us, winding in +its serpentine course, is the Jordan in its great trough or Ghor; +in the center of the picture are the mountains of Samaria, with +Ebal and Gerizim; to the south are the mountains of Judea, where +lies Jerusalem; and that broad expanse of water beyond all these +is the Mediterranean, the 'great sea toward the going down of the +sun.'" + +Then I waited for his criticism. He said, "You are right in every +point, but how did you know?" I said, "It is just like the +Palestine of my childhood's fancy that I located in the field back +of the barn on my father's little farm in western Pennsylvania, +and with that picture I have been familiar from the days of my +early youth." It is impossible for me to express what were my +feelings at this supreme moment of my life, as I viewed for the +first time what is distinctively known as the land of Patriarch, +Prophet, Priest, and King--the land of my Redeemer's earthly +pilgrimage--the world's best Holy Land! After some time spent in +viewing that almost matchless scene, and in gathering mountain +lilies, we began our descent into the most remarkable depression +in the world--the great Ghor of the Jordan. The next few hours +afforded little of pleasure. Careful attention had to be given to +our horses as we wound about among the rocks. The horses of both +my dragoman and muleteer fell on this trip, but without serious +results to either horses or riders. It was quite wearying to +proceed thus, so when we finally reached a large sloping rock +under which was a kind of stagnant pool--the only water we had +seen since leaving Coefrinje--I was glad to know that there we +would lunch, even though I could not drink of the water. + +This rocky wady is like a prison-house to me. But while eating I +hear sweet strains of music somewhere on the mountains--it is from +a shepherd's pipe. Scanning the heights I see far above me +shepherds with their flocks of sheep and goats, and the music that +I hear is from their reed-harps which they play as they lead the +way over rugged mountain paths to find greener pastures and better +waters. + +We tarry here only a little while. Not long after lunch we pass a +grotto of small size in the hill-side. Evidently the carven ruins +are the remains of an ancient temple that stood here in the days +when a pagan people held possession of the land; and I feel sure +that a fountain must exist here a good part of the year, though +now it is dry. + +A little farther on is Jabesh-gilead. The story of Jabesh-gilead +is a touching one. The people of the city were besieged by the +Ammonites under their king, Nahash. The men of the city were +willing to make a covenant to serve the Ammonites. But Nahash told +them that the only condition on which he would make a covenant +with them would be to thrust out all their right eyes and lay it +as a reproach upon Israel. The elders of Jabesh asked a respite of +seven days in which to get help, which request was granted. The +situation was critical in the extreme. Messengers left the +besieged city and hurried to the new king of Israel. Saul heard +the story of their distresses. Immediately he gathered an army of +three hundred and thirty thousand men, and, marching rapidly up +the Jordan Valley, crossed the river and attacked the Ammonites +and completely routed them with great slaughter. And thus he saved +the city. + +The men of Jabesh-gilead never forgot Saul and his kindness to +them. Forty years later the disastrous battle of Gilboa was +fought. In this battle both Saul and Jonathan were slain. The next +day when the Philistines searched for spoils among the dead they +found Saul and his three sons, and they cut off his head to carry +it as a trophy to Philistia; but they took the headless trunks of +the king and his sons to Beth-shan and fastened them against its +walls as a terrible warning to the Israelites. But, "when the +inhabitants of Jabesh-gilead heard of that which the Philistines +had done to Saul, all the valiant men arose and went all night and +took the body of Saul and the bodies of his sons from the wall of +Bethshan and came to Jabesh and burnt them there. And they took +their bones and buried them under a tree at Jabesh, and fasted +seven days." (II. Samuel 31:11-13.) + +Off to the left a little way I see Tabakat Fahil, identified as +Pella, the place to which the Christians of Jerusalem fled just +before the siege of Titus in obedience to the prophetic warning of +Christ. + +It is two o'clock when we reach the Jordan Valley, at a point a +little south of Beth-shan, which is on the west side of the river. +We now turn northward and pursue our way steadily near the +mountains until after five o'clock; then we turn toward the river, +which we reach at sun-down. + +The Jordan Valley is covered with a growth of thorn said to be +like that used in the crowning of Christ at the time of his mock- +trial. We eat of a delicious yellow berry now ripening on these +thorns. We pass two or three small villages, the names of which I +could not learn. We cross a number of small streams this +afternoon, the largest of which is the Tayibeh. All of these +streams are thickly lined with reeds and pink oleander; so thick +is this growth in some places that the streams are completely +hidden. Our Arab guide springs down into each of these water- +brooks and hands drink to us, but he drinks, I think, after the +manner of the drinking of "Gideon's three hundred," in the time of +their being tested; that is, by a quick movement of the hand +throwing water into his mouth. + +Pushing rapidly across the open valley we startle gazelles from +their hiding-places among the reeds. Then, near the river, we pass +several encampments of Bedouins whose tents are black as those of +Kedar. At last, after being in the saddle all of ten hours, just +at sun-set, we reach the Jordan at the bridge of Jisr el Mejamia, +six miles south of the Sea of Galilee. Just across on the other +side of the river we shall tarry through the night. + +The way has been long and trying. I am very weary. But, now, just +before me the Jordan--sacred stream! And then, on the other side, +rest! Happy, soul-cheering thought! + + + + + +"At the Bridge" + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +The bridge of Jisr el Mejamia was at the time of my visit the only +available one for travel between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead +Sea. It is a stone bridge and was built by the Romans nearly, or +quite, two thousand years ago. It could scarcely be crossed by +carriages at present as the ascent to the highest point is by a +kind of step arrangement. It even seemed a wise precaution for us +not to attempt to ride over on horse-back--the stones were very +smooth and slippery. The present name of the structure means +"bridge of the messengers," and it was so named because here +messengers from various points in the land used to meet to +exchange messages. + +I am glad to reach this place, for again I am very tired. The +distance traveled to-day is said to be fifty miles. But when we +arrive here the road and bridge are crowded with sheep and goats +being brought in from the valley for safety in the night. My first +sight of the Jordan, which at this place is clear and sparkling, +does not particularly impress me. I long for rest, and so we do +not tarry, but pass directly into the village lying just at the +west end of the bridge. + +Oh, the wretchedness of this place! I wonder what kind of +entertainment I can find here. There is little choice as to a +place of lodging. The best and only accommodation that the +miserable village affords is what was formerly used by robbers as +a prison-house for their victims, but which is now used as a kind +of store-room. There is but one room, and its earthen floor is +littered over with filth of almost every description, while dust +and cob-webs everywhere abound. This is the RECEPTION-ROOM for our +party of four. + +While my dragoman busied himself in getting supper, I sat on a box +making notes of what I had seen and experienced that day. Just +then the place served as KITCHEN and WRITING-ROOM. I wrote +rapidly, and as I wrote the thought that somewhere that day I had +crossed the path of the Master in his Perean ministry thrilled me. +I said, "Mr. Barakat, I am going down to the Jordan for a while +after supper." He replied, "All right, and I'll go with you'." +"No," said I, "I want to be alone down at the bridge." He simply +said, "I'll go with you." + +Our supper was a light affair, but our host brought a platter of +something that looked like dark beeswax, but which proved to be a +palatable food called "halawa." We ate from the floor of this +room, which then became our DINING-ROOM. + +After supper I was ready to go down to the river, not more than a +hundred yards from our lodging-place. When we started, our host +stepped to a corner of the room, picked up a gun, and prepared to +go with us. I told my dragoman to tell him not to go with us. The +reply was, "He will go with us." "Well," I said, "if he must go +make him put down that gun; it will spoil my evening of quiet +thought at the sacred river." The answer was: "Make no further +objection. Have you not noticed that everybody here carries a gun? +He knows what he is doing. This is the most disreputable place +along the river. Those Bedouins of the black tents that we passed +over yonder would want no better opportunity than to find you, who +are expected to have money, alone at the bridge." I accepted the +situation, and said, "All right, but I shall expect you both to be +obedient to the extent of giving me a period of quiet as long as I +wish to remain." + +But, before we go to the bridge, let me tell of that night in that +miserable place of filth. At the time of retiring my host said to +me through my interpreter that I could have choice of beds--that I +could either sleep on the counter, which consisted of a couple of +boards laid carelessly across boxes, or that I could sleep behind +the counter on the floor! After looking at the boards, and +thinking what would likely be the result should I attempt to sleep +there, I made choice of the floor. The room then became my +BEDROOM. + +Oh, that night! I did not sleep a half-hour. The place seemed +alive with vermin. My host slept on the counter. He did not seem +to be annoyed in the least. True, he scratched, but he snored an +accompaniment to his scratching throughout the night. I could only +scratch and listen to him; there was no snoring for me. After that +night it required frequent bathing and much searching for a week +or ten days before I felt free from the awful pests of that filthy +den. Thus it was that my first crossing of the Jordan did not +bring me to a "land of rest," but to an experience akin to +distraction. + +But now to the bridge. We pass quietly among the curious gazers +down to the river. Just south of the bridge I go down to the +river's edge and bathe my hands, face, and feet in water that only +a few hours ago was in the lake where the waves were once stilled +by His quiet command of power--"Peace, be still," and where He at +another time walked amidst the billows to meet his own; in water +that will hurry on down the valley to the place where He was +baptized; and then it will pass on into oblivion in the Salt Sea +of Death. Then I try, with surprising success, to drink of the +water like our Arab guide drank to-day. Then we walk to the +bridge, at the approach of which I ask my men to tarry while I go +out on it alone to meditate. + +I have reached this place by the expenditure of much physical +energy. I am very weary over my hard day in the saddle. But when I +seat myself on the highest point of the bridge, and give myself up +to reverie, I feel the flood of sentiment and rejoice. The moon is +about one-half hour above the mountains of Gilead; a halo seems to +gild the heights to the east and to the west. I am just above the +Jordan; its rippling waters tell me of Abraham, of Jacob, of +Joshua, of Saul, of David, of Elijah, of Elisha, of Naaman, of +John the Baptist, and of Jesus of Nazareth. How sweet and musical +is the story! How impressive its truths as I hear it to-night? +Then I watch the play of the moon-light on the water,--the +glittering sheen on the smooth surface above the bridge, and the +flashes of light on the rapids below. It is all so beautiful! + +And this is the Jordan! For many years I have heard of it; I have +read of it; I have sung of it. It has been to me for many years a +type of death. Again I look upon the calm blue depths on the +north, and then again on the rapids below--I see the peace here, +and hear the rush there. Then I turn my eyes again to the +mountains, and upward to the moon, and past the moon to the stars +--and by faith beyond the stars to search for Him of this land, +because of whose earth-life I am here, and upon whom I rely for +support in the hour of my approach to the shore of that river of +which this is the type. + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's My Three Days In Gilead, by Elmer U. Hoenshel + |