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 <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere in Old France, by Sir John Alexander Hammerton</title>
     <style type="text/css">
 
@@ -155,26 +155,10 @@ td {padding-left: 1em;
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+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43209 ***</div>
 <h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere
 in Old France, by Sir John Alexander Hammerton</h1>
-<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at <a
-href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p>
-<p>Title: In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere in Old France</p>
-<p>Author: Sir John Alexander Hammerton</p>
-<p>Release Date: July 13, 2013  [eBook #43209]</p>
-<p>Language: English</p>
-<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
-<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE TRACK OF R. L. STEVENSON AND ELSEWHERE IN OLD FRANCE***</p>
 <p>&nbsp;</p>
-<h4 class="center">E-text prepared by Melissa McDaniel<br />
-    and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
-    (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
-    from page images generously made available by<br />
-    Internet Archive<br />
-    (<a href="http://archive.org">http://archive.org</a>)</h4>
 <p>&nbsp;</p>
 <table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
   <tr>
@@ -213,7 +197,7 @@ ELSEWHERE IN OLD FRANCE</h1>
 <p class="caption">THE SCHELDT AT ANTWERP<br />
 
 "We made a great stir in Antwerp Docks. In a stroke or two the canoes were away out in
-the middle of the Scheldt."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+the middle of the Scheldt."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p class="center p6">
@@ -277,7 +261,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_173">173</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>"LA F�TE DIEU"</td>
+<td>"LA FÊTE DIEU"</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_195">195</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -316,7 +300,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-021a">4</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>CH�TEAU NEUF, NEAR LE MONASTIER</td>
+<td>CHÂTEAU NEUF, NEAR LE MONASTIER</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-027a">8</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -324,7 +308,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-027b">8</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>CH�TEAU BEAUFORT AT GOUDET</td>
+<td>CHÂTEAU BEAUFORT AT GOUDET</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-034a">13</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -368,20 +352,20 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-069a">36</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>RUINS OF THE H�TEL DU LOT</td>
+<td>RUINS OF THE HÔTEL DU LOT</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-069b">36</a>
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_VIII" id="Page_VIII">viii</a></span></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>ON THE LOZ�RE</td>
+<td>ON THE LOZÈRE</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-075a">40</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>ON THE LOZ�RE</td>
+<td>ON THE LOZÈRE</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-082a">45</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>VILLAGE OF COCUR�S</td>
+<td>VILLAGE OF COCURÈS</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-087a">48</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -389,7 +373,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-087b">48</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>WATERFALL ON THE LOZ�RE</td>
+<td>WATERFALL ON THE LOZÈRE</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-094a">53</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -401,7 +385,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-099">56</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>THE TARN VALLEY AT LA VERN�DE</td>
+<td>THE TARN VALLEY AT LA VERNÈDE</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-105">60</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -425,7 +409,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-123b">72</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>THE ALL�E VERTE AT LAEKEN</td>
+<td>THE ALLÉE VERTE AT LAEKEN</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-130a">77</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -474,7 +458,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-165a">100</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>THE BAZINS' INN AT LA F�RE</td>
+<td>THE BAZINS' INN AT LA FÈRE</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-165b">100</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -482,7 +466,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-171a">104</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>H�TEL DU NORD, NOYON</td>
+<td>HÔTEL DU NORD, NOYON</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-171b">104</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -494,7 +478,7 @@ AUTHOR OF "STEVENSONIANA"</p>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-183">112</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>COMPI�GNE TOWN HALL</td>
+<td>COMPIÈGNE TOWN HALL</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-189">116</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -569,7 +553,7 @@ THE AUVERNGATS</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-265">161</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>THE CH�TEAU DE LA CAZE ON THE TARN</td>
+<td>THE CHÂTEAU DE LA CAZE ON THE TARN</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-271">164</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -610,7 +594,7 @@ THE RHONE TO TARASCON</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-316">193</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
-<td>PROCESSION OF LA F�TE DIEU</td>
+<td>PROCESSION OF LA FÊTE DIEU</td>
 <td class="tdr"><a href="#i-321">196</a></td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
@@ -669,7 +653,7 @@ of copy-hunting, and when the author went
 forth on them he had no intention of making
 a book about his experiences&mdash;at least, not
 one deriving its chief interest from association
-with the memory of R.�L.�S. He has been
+with the memory of R. L. S. He has been
 counselled, however, to bring together these
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_XII" id="Page_XII">xii</a></span>
 chapters and their accompanying photographs
@@ -694,7 +678,7 @@ scenes of infinite variety and charm.</p>
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-016a" id="i-016a"></a>
 <img src="images/i-016a.jpg" width="550" height="396" alt="" />
 <p class="caption">"In a little place called Le Monastier, in a pleasant Highland
-valley about fifteen miles from Le Puy, I spent a month of fine days."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+valley about fifteen miles from Le Puy, I spent a month of fine days."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-016b" id="i-016b"></a>
@@ -730,7 +714,7 @@ Hazlitt may be authority of sufficient weight
 to justify the thought that my own experience
 is not likely to be singular. To me the chief
 charm in reading a book of travel is this
-fanciful assumption of the r�le of the
+fanciful assumption of the rôle of the
 traveller; and so far does it condition my
 reading, that my readiest appetite is for a
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span>
@@ -784,8 +768,8 @@ rare spirit" had rested for a little while.</p>
 which, somewhat loosely, Stevenson applies
 the name Cevennes, lies along the western
 confines of Provence, and overlaps on several
-departments, chief of which are Ard�che,
-Loz�re, Gard, and Herault. In many parts
+departments, chief of which are Ardèche,
+Lozère, Gard, and Herault. In many parts
 the villages and the people have far less in
 common with France and the French than
 Normandy and the Normans have with provincial
@@ -803,7 +787,7 @@ for ever "off the beaten track."</p>
 beautiful town of Mende would be the best
 starting-place. But since my purpose was to
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span>
-strike the trail of R.�L.�S., after some wanderings
+strike the trail of R. L. S., after some wanderings
 awheel northward of Clermont Ferrand,
 I approached the district from Le Puy, a
 town which so excellent a judge as Mr. Joseph
@@ -831,14 +815,14 @@ the Cevennes.</p>
 <div>
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-021a" id="i-021a"></a>
 <img src="images/i-021a.jpg" width="386" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption"><i>Where R.�L.�S. bought Modestine</i></p>
+<p class="caption"><i>Where R. L. S. bought Modestine</i></p>
 <p class="caption">"Our first interview (with Father Adam) was
-in the Monastier market place."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+in the Monastier market place."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 <div class="figcenter">
 <img src="images/i-021b.jpg" width="391" height="550" alt="" />
 <p class="caption">"The bell of Monastier was just striking nine,
-as I descended the hill through the common."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+as I descended the hill through the common."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p class="caption">LE MONASTIER</p>
@@ -872,7 +856,7 @@ the rest they apply equally to scores of
 similar villages of the Cevennes. Certainly it
 is not notable for the variety or comfort of its
 hostelries, but I shall not regret our brief
-sojourn at the H�tel de Chabrier.</p>
+sojourn at the Hôtel de Chabrier.</p>
 
 <p>Mine host was a worthy who will always
 have a corner in my memory. Like his
@@ -884,7 +868,7 @@ the Scots describe with their untranslatable
 through his stockings, he was the living
 advertisement of his frowsy inn, the ground
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span>
-floor of which, still bearing the legend <i>Caf�</i>,
+floor of which, still bearing the legend <i>Café</i>,
 had been turned into a stable for oxen and
 lay open to the highway, a doubtful shelter
 for our bicycles. But withal, turning a shut
@@ -895,7 +879,7 @@ he sent to "all parts of Europe." The frank
 satisfaction with himself and his hotel
 he betrayed at every turn would have rejoiced
 the heart of so shrewd a student of
-character as R.�L.�S., and the chances are
+character as R. L. S., and the chances are
 considerable that in that month of fine days,
 six-and-twenty years before, Stevenson may
 have gossiped with my friend of the greasy
@@ -915,7 +899,7 @@ the noted village character Father Adam,
 who sold his donkey to this Scottish
 traveller?"</p>
 
-<p>"<i>P�re Adam&mdash;oui, oui, oui&mdash;ah, non, non,
+<p>"<i>Père Adam&mdash;oui, oui, oui&mdash;ah, non, non,
 je ne le connais pas</i>," thus shuffling when I
 asked for some further details.
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span></p>
@@ -929,7 +913,7 @@ temptation, I tested his evidence early in our
 talk by asking how many years had passed
 since he of whom we spoke had rested at
 Le Monastier, and whether he had patronised
-the H�tel de Chabrier. He sagely scratched
+the Hôtel de Chabrier. He sagely scratched
 his head and racked his memory for a
 moment, with the result that this Scotsman&mdash;oh,
 he was sure he was a Scotsman&mdash;had
@@ -975,7 +959,7 @@ to enclose the common sewer of the town,
 still lingering in our nostrils, we resumed our
 journey southward across the little river
 Gazeille, and headed uphill in the direction
-of St. Martin de Frug�res, noting as we
+of St. Martin de Frugères, noting as we
 mounted on the other side of the valley the
 straggling lane down which Modestine, loaded
 with that wonderful sleeping sack and the
@@ -989,7 +973,7 @@ donkey driver."
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-027a" id="i-027a"></a>
 <img src="images/i-027a.jpg" width="550" height="401" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">CH�TEAU NEUF, NEAR LE MONASTIER</p>
+<p class="caption">CHÂTEAU NEUF, NEAR LE MONASTIER</p>
 
 <p class="caption">A drawing of this castle by Stevenson has been published.</p>
 </div>
@@ -999,14 +983,14 @@ donkey driver."
 <p class="caption">GOUDET</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"I came down the hill to where Goudet stands in a green end of a
-valley."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+valley."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <h3>IV.</h3>
 
 <p>Along our road were several picturesque
 patches formed of rock and pine, and notably
-the romantic ruins of Ch�teau Neuf, with the
+the romantic ruins of Château Neuf, with the
 little village clustered at their roots, which
 furnished subjects for Stevenson's block and
 pencil. Among his efforts as a limner there
@@ -1015,7 +999,7 @@ gives with striking effect the far-reaching
 panorama of the volcanic mountain masses
 ranging westward from Le Monastier, a scene
 of wild and austere aspect. A little beyond
-Ch�teau Neuf we were wheeling on the same
+Château Neuf we were wheeling on the same
 road where he urged with sinking heart the
 unwilling ass, and while still within sight of
 his starting-place, showing now like a scar on
@@ -1027,7 +1011,7 @@ thrashing and the use of the magic word
 "Proot."</p>
 
 <p>The road grew wilder as we advanced
-towards St. Martin de Frug�res, to which
+towards St. Martin de Frugères, to which
 village the sentimental traveller came upon a
 Sabbath, and wrote of the "home feeling"
 the scene at the church brought over
@@ -1047,7 +1031,7 @@ was nothing that tempted us to tarry on our
 way.</p>
 
 <p>"Goudet stands in a green end of a valley,
-with Ch�teau Beaufort opposite upon a rocky
+with Château Beaufort opposite upon a rocky
 steep, and the stream, as clear as crystal, lying
 in a deep pool between them." The scene was
 indeed one of singular beauty, the fertile fields
@@ -1058,7 +1042,7 @@ the place, we foregathered with two peasants
 trudging uphill to St. Martin. I was glad to
 talk with them, as I desired to know which of
 the inns was the oldest. There were three, I
-was told, and the Caf� Rivet boasted the
+was told, and the Café Rivet boasted the
 greatest age, the others being of recent birth,
 and none were good, my informant added,
 supposing that we intended to lodge for the
@@ -1092,7 +1076,7 @@ changed in no essential feature, though I
 missed the portrait of the host's nephew,
 Regis Senac, "Professor of Fencing and
 Champion of the Two Americas," that had
-entertained R.�L.�S. In return for our hints
+entertained R. L. S. In return for our hints
 on tea-making, Madame Rivet charged us
 somewhat in excess of the usual tariff, and
 showed herself a veritable <i>grippe-sous</i> before
@@ -1125,7 +1109,7 @@ was common in the glens.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-034a" id="i-034a"></a>
 <img src="images/i-034a.jpg" width="456" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">CH�TEAU BEAUFORT AT GOUDET</p>
+<p class="caption">CHÂTEAU BEAUFORT AT GOUDET</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-034b" id="i-034b"></a>
@@ -1227,7 +1211,7 @@ vivid as steel by contrast.</p>
 
 <h3>VI.</h3>
 
-<p>"I had been told," says R.�L.�S., "that the
+<p>"I had been told," says R. L. S., "that the
 neighbourhood of the lake was uninhabited
 except by trout." He travelled in the days
 before the <i>Syndicat d'Initiative du Velay</i>,
@@ -1387,7 +1371,7 @@ skipping-rope.</p>
 
 <h3>VIII.</h3>
 
-<p>We had again joined the track of R.�L.�S.,
+<p>We had again joined the track of R. L. S.,
 where, now armed with a goad, he drove his
 donkey. "The perverse little devil, since she
 would not be taken with kindness, must even
@@ -1411,8 +1395,8 @@ here at an altitude of 3,800 feet above sea-level.</p>
 <p class="caption">OLD BRIDGE AT LANGOGNE</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"Just at the bridge at Langogne a lassie of some seven or eight
-addressed me in the sacramental phrase, '<i>D'o� 'st-ce-que vous
-venez?</i>'"&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+addressed me in the sacramental phrase, '<i>D'où 'st-ce-que vous
+venez?</i>'"&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-045b" id="i-045b"></a>
@@ -1420,7 +1404,7 @@ venez?</i>'"&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
 <p class="caption">THE LOIRE NEAR GOUDET</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"An amiable stripling of a river, which it seems absurd to call
-the Loire."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+the Loire."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>More than any other place we saw in our
@@ -1435,7 +1419,7 @@ gateway from the top of which a village
 heroine killed some Huguenot heroes by throwing
 a stone at them while they were leading an
 assault against its walls. In the church of
-N�tre Dame this episode in the history of the
+Nôtre Dame this episode in the history of the
 town is commemorated by a mural painting in
 vivid colours, the stone which the devout
 Catholic maiden is hurling at the devoted
@@ -1468,10 +1452,10 @@ Scottish churches, occupied at the time of our
 visit by a group of women, members no doubt
 of some pious confraternity.</p>
 
-<p>R.�L.�S. has some picturesque notes on "The
-Beast of G�vaudan," whose trail he first
+<p>R. L. S. has some picturesque notes on "The
+Beast of Gévaudan," whose trail he first
 struck at Pradelles; for we were now in the
-wild and uncultivated country of G�vaudan,
+wild and uncultivated country of Gévaudan,
 "but recently disforested from terror of the
 wolves," whose grizzly exploits in the way of
 eating women and children seem to have engaged
@@ -1492,9 +1476,9 @@ a terrace near the road came forward to greet
 us, tripping unexpectedly over the tether of a
 goat, and landing softly and naturally on the
 ground, where after her moment's surprise
-she smilingly asked, "<i>O� allez vous promener?</i>"
+she smilingly asked, "<i>Où allez vous promener?</i>"
 more usually our bucolic greeting
-than "<i>D'o� 'st-ce-que vous venez?</i>" the latter
+than "<i>D'où 'st-ce-que vous venez?</i>" the latter
 "sacramental phrase," on which Stevenson
 remarks, being possibly suggested in his case
 by the odd appearance of the traveller and
@@ -1518,10 +1502,10 @@ summer resort, though one is at a loss to
 account for its attractions to holiday makers.
 Its church dates from the tenth century, and
 contains in a little chapel on the right, below
-the level of the nave, the image of N�tre
+the level of the nave, the image of Nôtre
 Dame de Tout-Pouvoir, which our landlady
-at the Cheval Blanc assured us was <i>tr�s
-v�n�r�e</i>, and the housemaid who conducted
+at the Cheval Blanc assured us was <i>très
+vénérée</i>, and the housemaid who conducted
 us thither took advantage of the occasion to
 tell her beads before the statue, keeping a
 roving eye on us as we wandered about the
@@ -1531,7 +1515,7 @@ church.</p>
 
 <p>Stevenson's track now lay somewhat to
 the west of the course of the Allier, as he made
-for the little village of Cheylard l'Ev�que, on
+for the little village of Cheylard l'Evêque, on
 the borders of the Forest of Mercoire, and
 in this stage of his journey he was more than
 usually faithful to his ideal of travel: "For
@@ -1574,7 +1558,7 @@ the hedges.</p>
 <img src="images/i-051a.jpg" width="550" height="398" alt="" />
 <p class="caption">VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF LUC</p>
 <p class="caption">"Why anyone should desire to visit Luc is more than my
-much-inventing spirit can suppose."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+much-inventing spirit can suppose."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-051b" id="i-051b"></a>
@@ -1582,7 +1566,7 @@ much-inventing spirit can suppose."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
 <p class="caption">LA BASTIDE</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"At a place called La Bastide I was directed to leave the
-river."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+river."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>"Why anyone should desire to visit either
@@ -1624,7 +1608,7 @@ Stevenson's visit.</p>
 <p>Here, he tells us, "I was directed to leave
 the river, and follow a road that mounted on
 the left among the hills of Vivarais, the modern
-Ard�che; for I was now come within a little
+Ardèche; for I was now come within a little
 way of my strange destination, the Trappist
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span>
 monastery of Our Lady of the Snows."
@@ -1635,7 +1619,7 @@ lies through a great forest of pines, but when
 the crest of the hill is gained a far-reaching
 prospect greets the eye. "The sun came out
 as I left the shelter of a pine wood," writes
-R.�L.�S., "and I beheld suddenly a fine wild
+R. L. S., "and I beheld suddenly a fine wild
 landscape to the south. High rocky hills,
 as blue as sapphire, closed the view, and between
 these lay ridge upon ridge, heathery,
@@ -1720,7 +1704,7 @@ that smote unpleasantly on the ear.</p>
 <p class="caption">THE MONASTERY</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"Modestine was led away by a layman to the stables, and I and my
-pack were received into Our Lady of the Snows."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+pack were received into Our Lady of the Snows."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>The buildings of Our Lady of the Snows
@@ -1752,7 +1736,7 @@ being asked to become part of the picture,
 and begged me to wait a moment while he
 fixed on his left arm his <i>plaque</i>, whereon I
 read in brazen letters, "Gardien de la
-Propri�t�." This aged and infirm defender
+Propriété." This aged and infirm defender
 of the monastic estates was as proud of his
 <i>plaque</i> as if it had been a medal won in war.
 There must be few attacks upon the property
@@ -1891,7 +1875,7 @@ by special indulgence, go so far towards
 temporising with the flesh as to eat twice in
 one day.</p>
 
-<p>R.�L.�S. was moved to a little disquisition
+<p>R. L. S. was moved to a little disquisition
 on the subject of over-eating when he contemplated
 the dietetic restraint of the Trappist
 brethren. "Their meals are scanty, but even
@@ -1939,7 +1923,7 @@ being in this respect less fanatical than other
 fraternities of the same order, who sleep in
 their coffins, and even in unduly ready
 graves. "By two in the morning," says
-R.�L.�S., "the clapper goes upon the bell, and
+R. L. S., "the clapper goes upon the bell, and
 so on, hour by hour, and sometimes quarter
 by quarter, till eight, the hour of rest; so
 infinitesimally is the day divided among
@@ -1973,19 +1957,19 @@ Lady of the Snows was clearly established
 by the information that in the winter months
 it is buried for weeks on end, and our young
 friend of the shiny eyes shivered as he spoke
-of the <i>neige �norme</i>, which he is doomed to see
+of the <i>neige énorme</i>, which he is doomed to see
 every winter that he lives.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-069a" id="i-069a"></a>
 <img src="images/i-069a.jpg" width="385" height="550" alt="" />
 <p class="caption">MAIN STREET, LE BLEYMARD</p>
 <p class="caption">"From Bleymard I set out to scale a portion of
-the Loz�re."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+the Lozère."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-069b" id="i-069b"></a>
 <img src="images/i-069b.jpg" width="390" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">RUINS OF THE H�TEL DU LOT</p>
+<p class="caption">RUINS OF THE HÔTEL DU LOT</p>
 <p class="caption"><i>On the Villefort-Mende road, at La Remise,
 near Le Bleymard</i></p>
 </div>
@@ -2005,8 +1989,8 @@ hung upon the walls, and to the right of the
 fireplace stood a little bookcase, containing,
 however, no works of interest. The meal
 served to us was well cooked and savoury, and
-as an excellent omelet formed its <i>pi�ce de
-r�sistance</i>, with soup, potato salad, walnuts,
+as an excellent omelet formed its <i>pièce de
+résistance</i>, with soup, potato salad, walnuts,
 figs and cheese included, it needed none of the
 profuse apologies for poverty of fare with
 which it was set before us.</p>
@@ -2026,7 +2010,7 @@ time by examining one's conscience, confessing
 one's sins, and making good resolutions. "To
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span>
 make good resolutions, indeed!" comments
-R.�L.�S. "You might talk as fruitfully of
+R. L. S. "You might talk as fruitfully of
 making the hair grow on your head." So far
 as we could judge, the south wing at the time of
 our visit sheltered no other strangers than ourselves;
@@ -2061,7 +2045,7 @@ chapel to hear the monks chanting the last
 service of the day, <i>Compline</i> and <i>Salve Regina</i>,
 we found that there was at least another
 visitor, in the person of a stout and blue-chinned
-<i>cur�</i>. The white-robed monks were
+<i>curé</i>. The white-robed monks were
 seated in their chairs in the choir, books upon
 their knees; while the organist in an elevated
 position on a level with the gallery played,
@@ -2137,10 +2121,10 @@ are meant to fight.</p>
 <p class="caption"><i>Scene of "A Night among the Pines"</i></p>
 
 <p class="caption">"Buckled into my sack, and smoking alone in the pine woods,
-between four and five thousand feet towards the stars."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+between four and five thousand feet towards the stars."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
-<p class="caption">ON THE LOZ�RE</p>
+<p class="caption">ON THE LOZÈRE</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>We slept the sleep of tired men in our room
@@ -2155,7 +2139,7 @@ the door until the pine woods enclosed us.</p>
 <h3>XV.</h3>
 
 <p>We made a swift descent to La Bastide, and
-by way of Chasserad�s, where Stevenson
+by way of Chasseradès, where Stevenson
 slept in the common bedroom of the inn,
 reached Le Bleymard late in the afternoon,
 passing through a country of bare hills and
@@ -2173,7 +2157,7 @@ and we must have passed it. We remounted
 our cycles and retraced our path across the
 river, a distance of perhaps three furlongs,
 and lo! there stood the charred remains of the
-H�tel du Lot, where we had hoped to rest
+Hôtel du Lot, where we had hoped to rest
 ourselves. We had passed the place without
 noticing it, and the view of its gaunt and
 smoky walls, now that they had acquired so
@@ -2183,7 +2167,7 @@ It was after sundown, and there lay between
 us and Pont de Montvert a mountain higher
 than Ben Nevis.</p>
 
-<p>Opposite the unlucky H�tel du Lot stood a
+<p>Opposite the unlucky Hôtel du Lot stood a
 small <i>auberge</i>, kept by one Teissier. Two men
 were drinking absinth at a table by the doorway.
 One was a thick-set fellow, wearing
@@ -2193,11 +2177,11 @@ familiar dark French type, thin of features,
 eyes bright as those of a consumptive, his
 beard ample and of a jet black, against which
 his ripe red lips showed noticeably. He was
-dressed like a clerk or <i>commer�ant</i>. They
+dressed like a clerk or <i>commerçant</i>. They
 made us welcome at their table, and we fell at
 once to discussing the situation, from which
 it was evident we could not hope to cross the
-Loz�re that night. Some tourists had experienced
+Lozère that night. Some tourists had experienced
 a bad time traversing the mountain
 the previous Sunday, and as we could not hope
 to do more than reach the Baraque de Secours
@@ -2272,13 +2256,13 @@ to be happy.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-082b" id="i-082b"></a>
 <img src="images/i-082b.jpg" width="550" height="394" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">"The Loz�re lies nearly east and west; its highest point, this Pic
+<p class="caption">"The Lozère lies nearly east and west; its highest point, this Pic
 de Finiels, on which I was then standing, rises upwards of 5,600 feet
-above the sea."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+above the sea."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
-<p class="caption">ON THE LOZ�RE</p>
+<p class="caption">ON THE LOZÈRE</p>
 </div>
-<p>M. l'Ing�nieur, although he spoke no
+<p>M. l'Ingénieur, although he spoke no
 English, had seen something of the world, and
 had even been to Klondyke. He could not
 understand why anyone should have wandered
@@ -2286,18 +2270,18 @@ understand why anyone should have wandered
 to such a hole as this&mdash;for pleasure!
 But he expected that next year's guide-books
 would describe Bleymard as notable for the
-ruins of the H�tel du Lot. A wag, obviously.
+ruins of the Hôtel du Lot. A wag, obviously.
 If we wanted to see places worth looking at,
-there was Nice and N�mes, said his friend
+there was Nice and Nîmes, said his friend
 M. Barbenoire. Together they extolled, with
 a rare gush of adjectives, the beauty of these
 places, and promised to show us picture postcards
 that would lure us into visiting them.
 Tourists did come sometimes to climb the
-Loz�re, from the top of which in clear weather
+Lozère, from the top of which in clear weather
 one might see the Alps. The engineer laughed
 merrily at this, and said the story was as much
-legend as the exploits of the beast of G�vaudan.
+legend as the exploits of the beast of Gévaudan.
 He discussed in a very practical mind
 the question of miners' wages, and thought
 that the Bleymard zinc workers were better
@@ -2394,7 +2378,7 @@ fools, money-grubbers all! Holding
 up a five-franc piece, he averred that for this
 they would sell mother, daughter, sister; and
 then similarly elevating a bundle of paper-money,
-he exclaimed: "<i>Voil�, le Grand
+he exclaimed: "<i>Voilà, le Grand
 Dieu.</i>"</p>
 
 <p>"This is a Catholic countryside?" I said.</p>
@@ -2409,13 +2393,13 @@ put in Barbenoire,&mdash;"myself!"</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-087a" id="i-087a"></a>
 <img src="images/i-087a.jpg" width="550" height="395" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">"A cluster of black roofs, the village of Cocur�s sitting among
-vineyards."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"A cluster of black roofs, the village of Cocurès sitting among
+vineyards."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-087b" id="i-087b"></a>
 <img src="images/i-087b.jpg" width="550" height="387" alt="" />
 <p class="caption"><i>Bridge over the Tarn at "Pont de Montvert of bloody memory,"
-and view of the H�tel des Cevennes where Stevenson stayed.</i></p>
+and view of the Hôtel des Cevennes where Stevenson stayed.</i></p>
 </div>
 
 <h3>XVII.</h3>
@@ -2519,14 +2503,14 @@ while we cycled arduously toward it.</p>
 with a rough stone wall and porch enclosing a
 muddy yard. It stands at a height of over five
 thousand feet, being thus fully five hundred feet
-higher than Ben Nevis. To the west the Loz�re
+higher than Ben Nevis. To the west the Lozère
 swells upward, a great treeless waste, to its
 highest point, the Pic de Finiels, 5,600 feet
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span>
 above sea-level; while a splendid mass of
 volcanic origin uprears its craggy head some
 little distance to the south-east. "The view,
-back upon the northern G�vaudan," says
+back upon the northern Gévaudan," says
 Stevenson, writing of what he saw as he passed
 near this point, "extended with every step;
 scarce a tree, scarce a house, appeared upon
@@ -2555,7 +2539,7 @@ the mud and knocked at the door.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-094a" id="i-094a"></a>
 <img src="images/i-094a.jpg" width="396" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption"><i>Waterfall on the Loz�re, on Stevenson's route
+<p class="caption"><i>Waterfall on the Lozère, on Stevenson's route
 between Finiels and Pont de Montvert</i></p>
 </div>
 
@@ -2643,7 +2627,7 @@ around us lay deep in snow, the roads being
 quite impassable. This shelter was only open
 from the beginning of June to the end of
 September, when its keepers retired downhill
-again to Malavieille. R.�L.�S. crossed the
+again to Malavieille. R. L. S. crossed the
 mountain on the second last day in September,
 so that the snows would soon be lying on his
 track. When we resumed our journey again
@@ -2695,12 +2679,12 @@ atmosphere."</p>
 <img src="images/i-099.jpg" width="419" height="550" alt="" />
 <p class="caption">"CLARISSE"</p>
 
-<p class="caption"><i>The Waitress at the H�tel des Cevennes, from a photograph supplied
+<p class="caption"><i>The Waitress at the Hôtel des Cevennes, from a photograph supplied
 by the Pasteur at Pont de Montvert</i></p>
 
 <p class="caption">"The features, although fleshy, were of an original and
 accurate design; her mouth had a curl; her nostril spoke
-of dainty pride."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+of dainty pride."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>If his descent was thus, how much more so
@@ -2736,7 +2720,7 @@ One of the first buildings that the
 traveller encounters is the little Protestant
 temple perched on the rocky bank of the river,
 and perhaps it was again the Protestant
-education of R.�L.�S. that led him to note a
+education of R. L. S. that led him to note a
 higher degree of intelligence among the inhabitants
 than he had found in the purely
 Catholic villages. For my part, with the best
@@ -2758,8 +2742,8 @@ no outward symbol of office, but dressed in an
 ordinary jacket suit and cloth cap, we found
 in his home in a building by the river-side near
 the bridge. Directly across the rock-strewn
-course was the H�tel des Cevennes, where
-Stevenson sat at the "roaring table d'h�te,"
+course was the Hôtel des Cevennes, where
+Stevenson sat at the "roaring table d'hôte,"
 and was pleased to find three of the women
 passably good-looking, that being more than
 an average for any town in the Highlands of
@@ -2797,7 +2781,7 @@ pastor was good enough to present me with a
 copy, as he possessed several which he had
 procured three years before when ordering one
 for an Englishman who had gone over the
-trail of R.�L.�S. The <i>carte</i> shows the table-maid
+trail of R. L. S. The <i>carte</i> shows the table-maid
 of the hotel as still possessing some of the
 featural charms so minutely and faithfully
 noted by our author.</p>
@@ -2831,10 +2815,10 @@ thought," has not been fulfilled.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-105" id="i-105"></a>
 <img src="images/i-105.jpg" width="550" height="358" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">THE TARN VALLEY AT LA VERN�DE</p>
+<p class="caption">THE TARN VALLEY AT LA VERNÈDE</p>
 
-<p class="caption">"It was but a humble place, called La Vern�de, with less than a dozen houses and a Protestant chapel
-on a knoll. There, at the inn, I ordered breakfast."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"It was but a humble place, called La Vernède, with less than a dozen houses and a Protestant chapel
+on a knoll. There, at the inn, I ordered breakfast."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>The pastor came with us to point out Du
@@ -2845,7 +2829,7 @@ it was only natural that he should look
 upon so familiar an object without any show
 of emotion, though my fellow-traveller set it
 down to the cold Christless teaching of the
-<i>Eglise lib�rale</i>, to which section of the French
+<i>Eglise libérale</i>, to which section of the French
 Reformed Church Pont de Montvert is attached.
 In that three-storied house, with
 its underground dungeons and stout-walled
@@ -2855,10 +2839,10 @@ carried on "the Propagation of the
 Faith" by such ungentle methods as plucking
 out the hairs of the beard, enclosing the hands
 of his Protestant prisoners upon live coal, "to
-convince them," as R.�L.�S. quaintly observes,
+convince them," as R. L. S. quaintly observes,
 "that they were deceived in their opinions."
 On the 24th July, 1702, led by their "prophet"
-S�guier, a band of some fifty Camisards
+Séguier, a band of some fifty Camisards
 attacked the house of the Archpriest, to which
 they at length set fire, and thus forced Du
 Chayla and his military guard to attempt
@@ -2905,7 +2889,7 @@ wheat, but to furnish ground for chestnut trees,
 that clothe the hills with rich and sombre
 foliage, and give forth "a faint, sweet perfume,"
 which tinctures the air with balsamic breath.
-R.�L.�S. goes into raptures over these chestnuts;&mdash;"I
+R. L. S. goes into raptures over these chestnuts;&mdash;"I
 wish I could convey a notion of the
 growth of these noble trees; of how they strike
 out boughs like the oak, and trail sprays of
@@ -2949,7 +2933,7 @@ of the country-folk. "Thus, talking like
 Christian and Faithful by the way, he and I
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span>
 came upon a hamlet by the Tarn. It was but
-a humble place, called La Vern�de, with less
+a humble place, called La Vernède, with less
 than a dozen houses, and a Protestant chapel
 on a knoll. Here he dwelt, and here at the
 inn I ordered my breakfast. The inn was kept
@@ -2979,7 +2963,7 @@ with a tall tower.</p>
 <p class="caption">IN THE VALLEY OF THE TARN</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"The road led me past the old Castle of Miral on
-a steep."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+a steep."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-112b" id="i-112b"></a>
@@ -2987,11 +2971,11 @@ a steep."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
 <p class="caption">NEAR FLORAC</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"Past a battlemented monastery long since broken
-up and turned into a church and parsonage."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+up and turned into a church and parsonage."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>The influence of a country on its people
-suggested to R.�L.�S. an interesting comparison
+suggested to R. L. S. an interesting comparison
 as he journeyed through "this landscape,
 smiling although wild." "Those who took to
 the hills for conscience sake in Scotland had all
@@ -3002,7 +2986,7 @@ they would be twice engaged with Satan;
 but the Camisards had only bright and supporting
 visions.... With a light conscience,
 they pursued their life in these rough times and
-circumstances. The soul of S�guier, let us not
+circumstances. The soul of Séguier, let us not
 forget, was like a garden. They knew they
 were on God's side, with a knowledge that has
 no parallel among the Scots; for the Scots, although
@@ -3015,8 +2999,8 @@ fought out their war with "His Most Christian
 Majesty Louis, King of France and Brittany,"
 but on the bare and rocky plateaus westward
 of the Cevennes, and on such mountain-tops
-as the Loz�re. Stevenson had never seen the
-Causse M�jan or the Causse du Larzac, to the
+as the Lozère. Stevenson had never seen the
+Causse Méjan or the Causse du Larzac, to the
 southward of the region through which he
 travelled, or he would have realised that their
 conditions were even less likely to foster
@@ -3030,7 +3014,7 @@ point of view.</p>
 <p>Florac is a small town of white houses,
 cuddled between the eastern front of the Causse
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span>
-M�jan and the western foothills of the
+Méjan and the western foothills of the
 Cevennes, with the river Tarnon, joined by
 the Mimente to the south, running northward
 on its outskirts. There are only two thousand
@@ -3042,7 +3026,7 @@ the outer world at the time of Stevenson's
 journey, are now admitted to possess the
 finest scenery in Europe. Our French guide-book
 frankly stated that Florac is a place "of
-few attractions," but R.�L.�S. makes the most
+few attractions," but R. L. S. makes the most
 of these in a sentence or two, describing the
 town as possessing "an old castle, an alley of
 planes, many quaint street-corners, and a live
@@ -3050,7 +3034,7 @@ fountain welling from the hill." The old
 castle is quite without interest, and is indeed
 the local prison, while the alley of planes,
 called the Esplanade, is a dusty open space,
-with many caf�s lining it, and the grey, featureless
+with many cafés lining it, and the grey, featureless
 Protestant Temple at its southern end.</p>
 
 <p>"It is notable, besides," he adds, "for
@@ -3063,7 +3047,7 @@ was quite the prettiest French woman we saw
 in the Cevennes, and the Established Church
 pastor's wife perhaps the most cultured.
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span>
-R.�L.�S. found the townsfolk anxious to talk of
+R. L. S. found the townsfolk anxious to talk of
 the part played by Florac in the days of the
 Camisards, and was delighted to see Catholic
 and Protestant living together in peace and
@@ -3121,18 +3105,18 @@ was absent on a visit to Montpellier.</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"On a branch of the Tarn stands Florac. It
 is notable as one of the two capitals, Alais being
-the other, of the country of the Camisards."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+the other, of the country of the Camisards."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <h3>XXIII.</h3>
 
-<p>The route of R.�L.�S. now lay along the
+<p>The route of R. L. S. now lay along the
 valley of the Mimente, which branches eastward
 a little south of Florac, and penetrates
 a country very similar to that traversed
-between the Loz�re and this point. It was
+between the Lozère and this point. It was
 only a few miles from Florac that he spent his
-last night <i>� la belle �toile</i> in the valley of this
+last night <i>à la belle étoile</i> in the valley of this
 little river, noting in one of his finest sentences
 the coming of night: "A grey pearly evening
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span>
@@ -3178,7 +3162,7 @@ being alone with the stage driver and four
 or five agreeable young men, I did not
 hesitate to yield to my emotion."</p>
 
-<p>We are to imagine R.�L.�S. thus tearfully
+<p>We are to imagine R. L. S. thus tearfully
 occupied in the stage-coach bearing him east
 to Alais, an important industrial town on the
 main line northward through Le Puy, whither
@@ -3228,7 +3212,7 @@ alone in his frail canoe, as did his great exemplar
 John MacGregor, in the <i>Rob Roy</i>, it is
 doubtful if <i>An Inland Voyage</i>&mdash;not to say
 all that came after it&mdash;had ever been written.
-In a letter sent from Compi�gne during the
+In a letter sent from Compiègne during the
 voyage, he gives a very cheerless picture of
 the business: "We have had deplorable
 weather, quite steady ever since the start;
@@ -3257,7 +3241,7 @@ spirit is radiant on every page.</p>
 <img src="images/i-123a.jpg" width="550" height="410" alt="" />
 <p class="caption">BOOM ON THE RUPEL</p>
 
-<p class="caption">"Boom is not a nice place."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"Boom is not a nice place."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-123b" id="i-123b"></a>
@@ -3265,7 +3249,7 @@ spirit is radiant on every page.</p>
 <p class="caption">VILLEVORDE ON THE WILLEBROEK CANAL</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"The rest of the journey to Villevorde, we still spread our
-canvas to the unfavouring air."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+canvas to the unfavouring air."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>As it had been my pleasant fortune in the
@@ -3441,7 +3425,7 @@ richt on?" or "Watter, richt on?" he nodded
 brightly, and replied in Flemish, which was
 comically like the Scots.</p>
 
-<p>The H�tel de la Navigation, where the
+<p>The Hôtel de la Navigation, where the
 paddlers put up for the night, and of which
 Stevenson gives so bad an account, I found
 no trace of, nor did I tarry any length of time
@@ -3471,7 +3455,7 @@ window on either side of the rudder, and
 perhaps a jug or flowerpot in one of the
 windows; a dinghy following behind; a
 woman busied about the day's dinner, and a
-handful of children." Every day since R.�L.�S.
+handful of children." Every day since R. L. S.
 paddled in this same stretch of water
 the canal has presented the same picture of
 life, and thirty years hence, it is safe to
@@ -3554,7 +3538,7 @@ railway junction.</p>
 <img src="images/i-135.jpg" width="405" height="550" alt=""  />
 <p class="caption">THE GRAND CERF MAUBEUGE</p>
 
-<p class="caption">Where R.�L.�S. and his companion stayed for some days awaiting
+<p class="caption">Where R. L. S. and his companion stayed for some days awaiting
 the arrival of the canoes by rail from Brussels.</p>
 </div>
 
@@ -3570,7 +3554,7 @@ be mighty men of the paddle, led them into
 the most unwarranted boasting about the
 sport. "We are all employed in commerce
 during the day," said the Belgians, "but in
-the evening, <i>voyez-vous, nous sommes s�rieux</i>."
+the evening, <i>voyez-vous, nous sommes sérieux</i>."
 An admirable opening for a characteristic bit
 of Stevensonian philosophy: "For will anyone
 dare to tell me that business is more
@@ -3619,7 +3603,7 @@ real earnest their canoe voyage began. To
 the traveller who has wandered the highways
 of France south and west of Paris, such a town
 as this presents some uncommon features, and
-I cannot but think that R.�L.�S. gives a wrong
+I cannot but think that R. L. S. gives a wrong
 impression of it. "There was nothing to do,
 nothing to see," he tells us, and his only joy
 seems to have been that he got excellent meals
@@ -3662,7 +3646,7 @@ Black Country.</p>
 <p>Stevenson makes no mention of having
 visited the church, which is interesting in one
 respect at least. Beneath the stucco casts of
-the stations of the cross some <i>cur�</i> of an evangelical
+the stations of the cross some <i>curé</i> of an evangelical
 turn of mind has ventured on a series
 of little homilies unusual in my experience
 of French churches. Thus, under the representation
@@ -3679,7 +3663,7 @@ unto Him."</p>
 <p class="caption">THE CHURCH AT QUARTES</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"A miry lane led us up from Quartes with its church and
-bickering windmill."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+bickering windmill."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-141b" id="i-141b"></a>
@@ -3712,7 +3696,7 @@ two horses still makes its journey to and from
 the station, but the driver is a stout young
 fellow of florid face, who, I am sure, is perfectly
 contented with his lot, and enjoys his meals.
-"<i>C'est toujours la m�me ici</i>," said Veuve
+"<i>C'est toujours la même ici</i>," said Veuve
 Bonnaire, the landlady of the "Grand Cerf,"
 when I chatted with her in the bureau after
 luncheon. Yet not always the same, for
@@ -3804,7 +3788,7 @@ afford to take life so leisurely, and that the
 factory may whistle and the surburban train
 shriek laden to the town without causing them
 to turn a hair. "They seem stupefied with
-contentment," says R.�L.�S. in a fine passage,
+contentment," says R. L. S. in a fine passage,
 "and when we induced them to exchange a
 few words with us about the weather, their
 voices sounded quiet and far away."</p>
@@ -3849,7 +3833,7 @@ to the life, done by a real photographer.'"</p>
 <p class="caption">SCENE AT PONT-SUR-SAMBRE</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"Away on the left, a gaunt tower stood in the middle of
-the street."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+the street."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>I am sure they are a happy family at the
@@ -3922,7 +3906,7 @@ winding avenue of poplars and willows that
 marks the river's zigzag course through the
 rich and restful meadow-land we see the masts
 of other boats moving with consummate slowness.
-R.�L.�S. illustrates the erratic course
+R. L. S. illustrates the erratic course
 of the river by stating that while they could
 walk from Quartes to Pont in about ten
 minutes, the distance by river was six kilometres,
@@ -3965,7 +3949,7 @@ turns the occasion to profit thus:</p>
 <p class="caption">THE FOREST OF MORMAL FROM THE SAMBRE</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"We were skirting the Forest of Mormal, a sinister name to the ear, but a
-place most gratifying to sight and smell."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+place most gratifying to sight and smell."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>"There is nothing so much alive, and yet
@@ -4009,7 +3993,7 @@ and roads to ride which a little boy in a
 cart described eloquently by stretching his
 arm to its limit and then sweeping it down to
 the cart, and up and down half a dozen times!
-The forest has indeed, as R.�L.�S. observes,
+The forest has indeed, as R. L. S. observes,
 "a sinister name to the ear," and I felt&mdash;if I
 must speak the truth&mdash;a little quickening of
 the pulse when I had ridden about half an hour
@@ -4042,11 +4026,11 @@ named Bout du Monde.</p>
 in all the department of Le Nord, I
 have a great wish not to pass a night within
 its walls. It is changed times there since the
-passage of R.�L.�S., although it was <i>triste</i>
+passage of R. L. S., although it was <i>triste</i>
 enough when "Arethusa" and "Cigarette"
-spent two days at the roomy old H�tel de la
+spent two days at the roomy old Hôtel de la
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span>
-T�te d'Or. "Within the ramparts," he says,
+Tête d'Or. "Within the ramparts," he says,
 "a few blocks of houses, a long row of barracks
 and a church, figure, with what countenance
 they may, as the town. There seems to be
@@ -4055,7 +4039,7 @@ bought a sixpenny flint-and-steel, was so much
 affected that he filled my pockets with spare
 flints into the bargain. The only public
 buildings that had any interest for us were the
-hotel and the caf�. But we visited the church.
+hotel and the café. But we visited the church.
 There lies Marshal Clarke; but as neither of
 us had heard of that military hero, we bore
 the associations of the spot with fortitude."</p>
@@ -4065,7 +4049,7 @@ as though it had been set up yesterday, was
 one of Napoleon's generals, and, as his epitaph
 reminds us, sometime minister of war. Had
 he hailed from Scotland instead of Ireland he
-might have been more interesting to R.�L.�S.</p>
+might have been more interesting to R. L. S.</p>
 
 <p>If Landrecies was so dull thirty years ago,
 picture it to-day, with its barracks almost
@@ -4081,7 +4065,7 @@ day be ringed about with cannon smoke and
 thunder, and make itself a name among strong
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span>
 towns." Alas! the barking of a melancholy
-dog and the clock of the H�tel de Ville ringing
+dog and the clock of the Hôtel de Ville ringing
 out the lazy hours were the only sounds I
 heard that night, though just before dusk a
 wandering camelot selling in the street a sheet
@@ -4105,7 +4089,7 @@ north gate, whereon are recorded the sieges
 which Landrecies withstood, the last being in
 the Franco-German War. Also erected since
 Stevenson's time is a striking monument to
-the great Joseph Fran�ois Dupleix, whose
+the great Joseph François Dupleix, whose
 gallant effort to found an Indian empire for
 France was frustrated by Clive, and who, born
 in Landrecies, spent his substance for his
@@ -4115,14 +4099,14 @@ fatherland, only to die in poverty and neglect.</p>
 <img src="images/i-160a.jpg" width="550" height="413" alt=""  />
 <p class="caption">THE INN AT MOY</p>
 
-<p class="caption">"Sweet was our rest in the 'Golden Sheep' at Moy."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"Sweet was our rest in the 'Golden Sheep' at Moy."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-160b" id="i-160b"></a>
 <img src="images/i-160b.jpg" width="550" height="333" alt=""  />
 <p class="caption">THE VILLAGE STREET, MOY</p>
 
-<p class="caption">"Moy was a pleasant little village."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"Moy was a pleasant little village."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>The landlord of the hotel assured me that he
@@ -4164,7 +4148,7 @@ thickly-wooded fields and little hills. The
 hamlets by the way were surrounded by hop
 fields, the great poles with their fantastic
 coverings of the vine being the most noticeable
-feature of the wayside, just as R.�L.�S. had
+feature of the wayside, just as R. L. S. had
 observed them when the hop-growers of to-day
 were <i>bien jeune</i>, as the old gentleman at the
 play in Paris described Stevenson himself.
@@ -4194,7 +4178,7 @@ looked for there; but a river that runs wild
 and free is a possible highway to the enchanted
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>
 kingdom of Romance. We have the avowal
-of R.�L.�S. that on this sedgy stream, wriggling
+of R. L. S. that on this sedgy stream, wriggling
 its devious ways by field and woodland, he
 had some of the happiest moments of his life.</p>
 
@@ -4245,7 +4229,7 @@ in truth but a humorous phrasing of the
 stately requiem on the stone upon Vaea Top.</p>
 
 <p>It was a dripping "Arethusa" that got into
-Origny Sainte-Beno�te that night, and but
+Origny Sainte-Benoîte that night, and but
 for the ready and resourceful "Cigarette"
 the adventure might have ended less happily.
 Although Origny is a dusty little village, as
@@ -4270,9 +4254,9 @@ photographed at her door.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-165b" id="i-165b"></a>
 <img src="images/i-165b.jpg" width="550" height="395" alt=""  />
-<p class="caption">THE BAZINS' INN AT LA F�RE</p>
+<p class="caption">THE BAZINS' INN AT LA FÈRE</p>
 
-<p class="caption">"Little did the Bazins know how much they served us."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"Little did the Bazins know how much they served us."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <h3>XIV.</h3>
@@ -4304,14 +4288,14 @@ he had caught an unbelievable number of trout.
 Anglers are the same in all lands, I suspect.</p>
 
 <p>"Moy (pronounced Moy) was a pleasant
-little village, gathered round a ch�teau in a
+little village, gathered round a château in a
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span>
 moat," as our author records. "The air was
 perfumed with hemp from neighbouring fields.
 At the 'Golden Sheep' we found excellent
 entertainment." I asked for the "Golden
 Sheep," and was directed to an establishment
-that was named the H�tel de la Poste. I
+that was named the Hôtel de la Poste. I
 passed on and asked another villager, but he
 sent me back, as I found on following his
 instructions, to the same hotel. The postman
@@ -4325,13 +4309,13 @@ hotel, who might pass in every particular,
 save the myopia, for the "stout, plain, short-sighted,
 motherly body, with something not
 far short of a genius for cookery," described
-by R.�L.�S., agreed with me that her husband
+by R. L. S., agreed with me that her husband
 had made a sad mistake in dropping the old
 sign of the "Collier d'Or," "but he would
 have his own way, and there you are!" If I
 could have got the fellow&mdash;a fat, jolly mortal&mdash;to
 understand that to have the name of his
-hotel in a book by R.�L.�S. was an honour
+hotel in a book by R. L. S. was an honour
 worth living up to, perhaps the old sign would
 have been fished out, regilded and placed in
 its old position. But he had not been the
@@ -4356,7 +4340,7 @@ fillet of beef with mushrooms, green haricots
 of white herbs with a suspicion of garlic, a
 sweet omelet, pears, grapes, cheese, bread
 and butter, and, if I had cared, a whole bottle
-of red wine. An excellent <i>caf� noir</i> followed,
+of red wine. An excellent <i>café noir</i> followed,
 in the <i>estaminet</i>, where my hostess apologised
 for lighting only one electric lamp "<i>pour
 l'economie, vous savez</i>." My bedroom was
@@ -4370,11 +4354,11 @@ a visit more profitable to you.
 
 <h3>XV.</h3>
 
-<p>From Moy to La F�re is a very short journey
+<p>From Moy to La Fère is a very short journey
 even by the river, but the canoeists had
 lingered till late afternoon before leaving
 the former place, which "invited to repose,"
-and it was dark when they got to La F�re in
+and it was dark when they got to La Fère in
 their chronic state of dampness. "It was a
 fine night to be within doors over dinner, and
 hear the rain upon the windows." They had
@@ -4414,12 +4398,12 @@ exit to the straggling suburbs.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-171b" id="i-171b"></a>
 <img src="images/i-171b.jpg" width="550" height="399" alt=""  />
-<p class="caption">H�TEL DU NORD, NOYON</p>
+<p class="caption">HÔTEL DU NORD, NOYON</p>
 
 <p class="caption"><i>Where the travellers stayed</i></p>
 
 <p class="caption">"The Hotel du Nord lights its secular tapers within a stone-cast
-of the church."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+of the church."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <h3>XVI.</h3>
@@ -4431,7 +4415,7 @@ sets down in his own inimitable way his impressions
 of the humble folk who kept this
 inn. Scarcely hoping that I might be so
 fortunate as to find either of the Bazins alive,
-I asked at one of the numerous caf�s opposite
+I asked at one of the numerous cafés opposite
 the great barracks, whence crashed forth the
 indescribable noise of a brass band practising
 for the first time together, if there was an inn
@@ -4440,12 +4424,12 @@ I was told there was, and you may be
 sure I made haste to be there. I found the
 place precisely as Stevenson pictures it, noting
 by the way a tiny new Protestant chapel with
-the legend "Culte Evang�lique" over its door,
+the legend "Culte Evangélique" over its door,
 a cheering sight to Protestant eyes in so
 Catholic a country as the north of France.
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span></p>
 
-<p>"Bazin, Restaurateur Loge � pied,"&mdash;there
+<p>"Bazin, Restaurateur Loge à pied,"&mdash;there
 was the altered sign on the cream-coloured
 walls of the house. In the common room of
 the little inn, which was full of noisy reservists
@@ -4475,7 +4459,7 @@ charmingly about Madame and Monsieur
 Bazin. In an instant the old lady and the
 younger folk were agitated with pleasure,
 and, to my surprise, they knew all about the
-long-ago visit of R.�L.�S. and his friend.
+long-ago visit of R. L. S. and his friend.
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span>
 "Perhaps he was your papa," Madame suggested
 as the likeliest reason for my having
@@ -4507,7 +4491,7 @@ youth. He had delighted in the museums
 in his youth, 'One sees there little miracles of
 work,' he said; 'that is what makes a good
 workman; it kindles a spark.' We asked him
-how he managed in La F�re. 'I am married,'
+how he managed in La Fère. 'I am married,'
 he said, 'I have my pretty children. But,
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span>
 frankly, it is no life at all. From morning to
@@ -4546,7 +4530,7 @@ thanks that I gave them in my manner?"</p>
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-178" id="i-178"></a>
 <img src="images/i-178.jpg" width="550" height="360" alt=""  />
 <p class="caption">NOYON CATHEDRAL FROM THE EAST</p>
-<p class="caption">"We had the superb east end before our eyes all morning from the window of our bedroom."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"We had the superb east end before our eyes all morning from the window of our bedroom."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>Is that not a lovely monument to have?
@@ -4555,7 +4539,7 @@ Many of us who have made a greater clatter
 in the world than old Bazin will be less fortunate
 than he in this respect. And you see
 that although he had little affection for La
-F�re, he lived five-and-twenty quiet years
+Fère, he lived five-and-twenty quiet years
 there after Stevenson came his way. Yet not,
 in one sense, quiet, as the bugles are for ever
 braying, and even the street boys whistle
@@ -4601,7 +4585,7 @@ Samoa.</p>
 <h3>XVII.</h3>
 
 <p>The Oise runs through a stretch of pastoral
-country south of La F�re, known as "the
+country south of La Fère, known as "the
 Golden Valley," but a strath rather than a
 valley in character. It was a grey day on
 which I journeyed, and little that was golden
@@ -4616,10 +4600,10 @@ in atmosphere, I imagine, rather than in any
 outward resemblance, since I would be at a
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span>
 loss to point to the likeness if I were asked.
-R.�L.�S. had no more agreeable resting-place
+R. L. S. had no more agreeable resting-place
 on all his voyage than at Noyon. The travellers
 put up at a very prosperous-looking
-hostelry, the H�tel du Nord, which stands
+hostelry, the Hôtel du Nord, which stands
 withdrawn a little way from the east end of
 the grand old cathedral&mdash;the glory of Noyon,
 and one of the gems of early French Gothic,
@@ -4701,7 +4685,7 @@ Oise."</p>
 <p class="caption">NOYON CATHEDRAL: WEST FRONT</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"The Sacristan took us to the top of one of the towers, and
-showed us the five bells hanging in their loft."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+showed us the five bells hanging in their loft."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 <p>This pretty fancy of his need lose none of
 its prettiness when we know that Noyon has
@@ -4709,7 +4693,7 @@ not had a bishop since the Revolution, when
 the cathedral became a dependency of the
 Bishop of Beauvais, though it had been a
 bishopric so long ago as the year 531. But I
-am sorry R.�L.�S. was evidently not aware that
+am sorry R. L. S. was evidently not aware that
 when at Noyon he was in the town where
 John Calvin was born in 1709, his father being
 procurator-fiscal and secretary of the diocese;
@@ -4737,13 +4721,13 @@ Another wet day, it was determined, and we
 put the boats into the train." Happily,
 "the weather took the hint," and they paddled
 and sailed the rest of the voyage under clear
-skies. At Compi�gne they "put up at a big,
+skies. At Compiègne they "put up at a big,
 bustling hotel, where nobody observed our
 presence." My impression of the famous
 town scarcely justified this, as in the day
 that I lingered there I seemed to meet
 everybody a dozen times over, and the
-company at a little caf� chantant in the evening
+company at a little café chantant in the evening
 was like a gathering of old friends, so
 many of the faces were familiar. Yet the
 town is populous, having some 17,000 inhabitants
@@ -4759,8 +4743,8 @@ barge-traffic, and spanned by an elegant
 bridge. The older town lies south of the
 river in a sort of amphitheatre; its streets
 are narrow and tortuous, but with bright shops
-and caf�s in the neighbourhood of the Place
-de l'H�tel de Ville, while the fashionable
+and cafés in the neighbourhood of the Place
+de l'Hôtel de Ville, while the fashionable
 suburbs extend, in splendid quiet avenues,
 eastward and south from the centre of the
 town, by the historic palace built in Louis
@@ -4770,18 +4754,18 @@ English residents have chosen the town for
 the same reason that my hostess at Moy put
 on one electric light&mdash;<i>pour l'economie, vous
 savez</i>&mdash;together with its healthy and beautiful
-surroundings in the great forest of Compi�gne,
+surroundings in the great forest of Compiègne,
 many more are there for the employment
 afforded by the important felt hat factory of
 Messrs. Moore, Johnson &amp; Co., whose commodious
 works stand near the station on the north
 of the river. Despite its shops, its business
 prosperity, its red-legged soldiers, its visitors,
-Compi�gne is dull enough of an evening, and
-the brightly lighted but almost empty caf�s
+Compiègne is dull enough of an evening, and
+the brightly lighted but almost empty cafés
 leave one wondering how the business pays.</p>
 
-<p>"My great delight in Compi�gne," says
+<p>"My great delight in Compiègne," says
 inland voyager, "was the town-hall. I doted
 upon the town-hall. It is a monument of
 Gothic insecurity, all turreted and gargoyled,
@@ -4807,7 +4791,7 @@ above that, three little mechanical figures,
 each one with a hammer in his hand, whose
 business it is to chime out the hours and
 halves and quarters for the burgesses of
-Compi�gne. The centre figure has a gilt
+Compiègne. The centre figure has a gilt
 breast-plate; the two others wear gilt trunk-hose;
 and they all three have elegant, flapping
 hats like cavaliers. As the quarter approaches,
@@ -4828,7 +4812,7 @@ a devotee himself. There is something highly
 absurd in the exposition of such toys to the
 outrages of winter on a housetop. They
 would be more in keeping in a glass case
-before a N�rnberg clock. Above all, at night,
+before a Nürnberg clock. Above all, at night,
 when the children are abed, and even grown
 people are snoring under quilts, does it not
 seem impertinent to leave these ginger-bread
@@ -4844,9 +4828,9 @@ be amused."</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-189" id="i-189"></a>
 <img src="images/i-189.jpg" width="353" height="550" alt=""  />
-<p class="caption">COMPI�GNE TOWN HALL</p>
+<p class="caption">COMPIÈGNE TOWN HALL</p>
 
-<p class="caption">"My great delight in Compi�gne was the Town Hall."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+<p class="caption">"My great delight in Compiègne was the Town Hall."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <h3>XIX.</h3>
@@ -4856,7 +4840,7 @@ stages of Stevenson's journey; not because
 the towns through which the canoeists now
 passed are less worthy of note than any
 already described, but for the ample reason
-that R.�L.�S. had, in some measure, lost his
+that R. L. S. had, in some measure, lost his
 earlier delight in the voyage. He pretends
 that on the broading bosom of the Oise the
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span>
@@ -4870,7 +4854,7 @@ the <i>Cigarette</i> had set out with high hopes of
 adventure a fortnight before. The towns are
 quaint and sleepy. The voyagers were nearing
 the end, the river ran smooth, the sky was
-bright, and a packet of letters at Compi�gne
+bright, and a packet of letters at Compiègne
 had set them dreaming of home. Here was the
 secret; the spell was broken; their appetite
 for adventure had been slaked; every mile
@@ -4879,10 +4863,10 @@ away to unknown things, but homeward to
 familiar ones.</p>
 
 <p>Pont Sainte Maxence, the end of their first
-stage below Compi�gne, is a featureless little
+stage below Compiègne, is a featureless little
 town, the Oise making a brave show through
 the centre of it, and I do not suspect its
-church of any stirring history. R.�L.�S. found
+church of any stirring history. R. L. S. found
 its interior "positively arctic to the eye."
 It was here he noticed the withered old woman
 making her orisons before all the shrines;
@@ -4890,7 +4874,7 @@ making her orisons before all the shrines;
 cynical view of the commercial prospect, she
 desired to place her supplications in a great
 variety of heavenly securities." I passed
-through Creil and Pr�cy in the afternoon,
+through Creil and Précy in the afternoon,
 following close to the river, which now skirts
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span>
 a country of gentle hills on the east, but
@@ -4901,7 +4885,7 @@ of the distant horizon.</p>
 <h3>XX.</h3>
 
 <p>In the gloaming I arrived at Pontoise,
-where I was told a f�te was in progress;
+where I was told a fête was in progress;
 but the only signs of hilarity were two booths
 for the sale of pastries and sweet stuffs on the
 square in front of the station, and one small
@@ -4925,7 +4909,7 @@ piloted them, through rain and sunshine, for
 so long." He has not a word for the twelfth-century
 church of St. Maclou, his "brither
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span>
-Scot," or the tomb of St. Gautier at N�tre
+Scot," or the tomb of St. Gautier at Nôtre
 Dame de Pontoise.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-195" id="i-195"></a>
@@ -4938,7 +4922,7 @@ Dame de Pontoise.</p>
 <p class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF LE PUY</p>
 
 <p class="caption">"At Pontoise we drew up our keels for the last time out of that river of Oise that had faithfully
-piloted them through rain and sunshine so long."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+piloted them through rain and sunshine so long."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <p>"You may paddle all day long," he
@@ -5062,9 +5046,9 @@ we go, wary of the electric trams, to our hotel
 opposite the spacious Place du Breuil, where
 spouts a handsome fountain to the memory
 of a local metal-worker who furnished the
-town with its beautiful Mus�e Crozatier, and
+town with its beautiful Musée Crozatier, and
 where the elegant architecture of the Municipal
-Theatre, the Palais de Justice and the Pr�fecture
+Theatre, the Palais de Justice and the Préfecture
 supply a touch of modern dignity that
 contrasts not unpleasantly with the
 ancient and natural grandeur of the town.</p>
@@ -5286,7 +5270,7 @@ by the sacristan cheap at a franc.</p>
 <p>Enough, perhaps, has been indicated to give
 some idea of the superstitious character of the
 people of Le Puy. Nowhere in France have
-I found so many evidences of medi�val superstition;
+I found so many evidences of mediæval superstition;
 the Black Virgin is throned supreme
 in the minds of the people, and, unlike most
 French communities&mdash;if we except the priest-ridden
@@ -5389,7 +5373,7 @@ was an "object of aversion" to his own
 parents&mdash;was buried at St. Denis, but my
 excellent M. Joanne assures me that this
 statue is an authentic likeness of the hero;
-and the <i>Encyclop�dia Britannica</i> (which in
+and the <i>Encyclopædia Britannica</i> (which in
 another place mentions St. Denis as the place
 of burial) says that the church of St. Laurence
 "contains the remains of Du Guesclin."
@@ -5492,7 +5476,7 @@ the city of the Black Virgin.
 
 <p class="caption">"Du Chayla's house still stands, with a new roof, beside one of the
 bridges of the town; and if you are curious you may see the terrace-garden
-into which he dropped."&mdash;R.�L.�S.</p>
+into which he dropped."&mdash;R. L. S.</p>
 </div>
 
 <h2>The Country of the Camisards</h2>
@@ -5601,7 +5585,7 @@ of an irregular kind between the Camisards
 and the leagued officials of Pope and King
 in the closing years of the seventeenth
 century, it was not until that weird figure,
-Spirit S�guier, who has been called the
+Spirit Séguier, who has been called the
 "Danton of the Cevennes," planned the murder
 of the Archpriest du Chayla at the little
 town of Pont de Montvert, on the 23rd of
@@ -5622,7 +5606,7 @@ Protestant."</p>
 
 <p>On the 12th of August, nineteen days after
 the murder of the Archpriest, the right hand
-of S�guier was stricken from his body, and he
+of Séguier was stricken from his body, and he
 was burned alive at the spot where he had
 driven home the first knife into the oppressor
 of his people.
@@ -5744,9 +5728,9 @@ plateaux is the Causse de Sauveterre, which
 extends south-west from the town of Mende
 for upwards of forty miles, and is in parts
 at least twenty miles wide. It is divided
-from the Causse M�jan on the south by the
+from the Causse Méjan on the south by the
 splendid gorges of the river Tarn, and due
-south of the M�jan, with the beautiful valley
+south of the Méjan, with the beautiful valley
 of the Jonte between, lies the Causse Noir,
 some twenty miles east and west, and ten
 from the Jonte on its north to the no less
@@ -5756,7 +5740,7 @@ only this waterway dividing, extends the
 splendid mass of the Causse du Larzac, some
 thirty miles in length, from the neighbourhood
 of Millau to the ancient Roman town of
-Lod�ve, which boasted a continuous bishopric
+Lodève, which boasted a continuous bishopric
 from the year 323 to the Revolution, and is
 now a bright and populous industrial centre.
 These are the more notable of the Causses,
@@ -5879,7 +5863,7 @@ which it leaves the valley until it disappears
 over the edge of the table-land, the entire
 length of it being in view at one stroke of the
 eye. The task of ascending is laborious in
-the extreme, and much sitting at caf�s,
+the extreme, and much sitting at cafés,
 which is the habit of the townsfolk, does not
 equip them for the undertaking. Few wayfarers
 are encountered, and when the summit
@@ -5961,7 +5945,7 @@ importance in these mountain towns, but I
 have visited no <i>auberge</i> that would compare,
 in romantic situation, with that so
 graphically described by Mr. Crockett under
-the style of "le Bon Chr�tien" at La
+the style of "le Bon Chrétien" at La
 Cavalerie:</p>
 
 <p>"To those unacquainted with the plan of
@@ -6097,13 +6081,13 @@ truly in this little-known corner of southern
 France nature has performed some of her
 maddest, most fantastic freaks. Here she is
 seen in a mood more sensational than the
-weird imaginings of a Gustave Dor�; there
+weird imaginings of a Gustave Doré; there
 is no scenery that I have looked upon or read
 about in any other part of Europe comparable
 with this of the Tarn. In the old world at
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span>
 least it is unique, and we have to go for
-comparison to the renowned ca�ons of the
+comparison to the renowned cañons of the
 Colorado.</p>
 
 <p>Not the least curious feature of the story of
@@ -6111,7 +6095,7 @@ the Tarn, its awesome gorges and wondrous
 caverns, is the fact that less than thirty
 years ago the region was "discovered" to
 France by M. E. A. Martel, the celebrated
-grottologist, with as much �clat as it had been
+grottologist, with as much éclat as it had been
 an island in an unknown sea. Of course, the
 whole district, like every other part of France,
 had long ago taken its place in history and
@@ -6145,7 +6129,7 @@ little-known corner of France, but the best is
 undoubtedly by way of Mende, a fine town
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span>
 434 miles south of Paris, "chief place" of the
-Department of the Loz�re. Mende, although
+Department of the Lozère. Mende, although
 one of the cleanest and brightest of the French
 towns, with a population of less than 10,000,
 and pleasantly situated in a wide green valley,
@@ -6180,7 +6164,7 @@ any part of the journey. In company with
 another friend of the wheel, I struck eastward
 from Mende along the lovely valley of the Lot,
 and crossing the great mountain range that
-gives its name to the Department of the Loz�re
+gives its name to the Department of the Lozère
 we first came upon the Tarn at Pont de Montvert,
 some fourteen miles north-east of Florac,
 at which point R. L. Stevenson began his
@@ -6254,14 +6238,14 @@ sensational enough.</p>
 
 <p>The only place of habitation through which
 we passed was the little village of Prades,
-where the lighted window of a caf� with noise
+where the lighted window of a café with noise
 of merriment within, and the solemn gruntling
 of oxen in an open stable, gave one a little
 human encouragement though the street lay
 void and black. As you may suppose, it was
 with no small satisfaction that we at length
 wheeled into Ste. Enimie at half-past nine
-o'clock, and found mine host of the H�tel de
+o'clock, and found mine host of the Hôtel de
 Paris delighted to welcome two belated
 voyagers.</p>
 
@@ -6276,14 +6260,14 @@ meeting-place of three important highways:
 that by which we had come, and the road
 across the Sauveterre from La Canourgue,
 and that across the other mighty plateau, the
-Causse M�jan. The town is of great antiquity,
+Causse Méjan. The town is of great antiquity,
 and is said to owe its origin to a certain princess
 named Enimie, daughter of Clotaire II.,
 who, being tainted with leprosy, was cured by
 some waters at this place, and founded a
 monastery here at the close of the sixth
 century. This religious house became one of
-the richest in all G�vaudan, but was suppressed,
+the richest in all Gévaudan, but was suppressed,
 like so many of its kind, at the time
 of the great Revolution. The remains of the
 building are still an interesting feature of the
@@ -6298,7 +6282,7 @@ improving at the time of our visit.</p>
 <img src="images/i-264.jpg" width="360" height="550" alt=""  />
 <p class="caption">A ROCKY DEFILE ON THE TARN</p>
 
-<p class="caption"><i>Showing the mass of the Causse M�jan rising on the left</i></p>
+<p class="caption"><i>Showing the mass of the Causse Méjan rising on the left</i></p>
 </div>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-265" id="i-265"></a>
@@ -6336,7 +6320,7 @@ to Le Rozier is in a barque."</p>
 anything a hotel-keeper in a tourist resort will
 tell you about boats and coaches, for you never
 know to what extent he is financially interested
-in the matter, and he of the H�tel de Paris was
+in the matter, and he of the Hôtel de Paris was
 avowedly the agent of the company to whom
 belong the boats used for the descent of the
 river. Although his hotel had a modern and
@@ -6435,7 +6419,7 @@ the hairy wine-bibber at the stern are no
 creatures of fairyland, but the very serviceable
 mortals without whose aid the wonders of the
 Tarn would have remained to this day as
-distant as the realms of fa�ry.</p>
+distant as the realms of faëry.</p>
 
 <p>The panorama, which seems to pass us
 slowly on both sides of the river&mdash;for the
@@ -6470,7 +6454,7 @@ and rotundities, illustrating how in the unknown
 ages the water has eaten its way down
 from the upper level to its present bed.</p>
 
-<p>The Ch�teau de La Caze is set about by
+<p>The Château de La Caze is set about by
 many tall and leafy trees, and one could
 imagine no holiday more enjoyable than a few
 days passed here, for&mdash;Oh, ye romantic and
@@ -6481,7 +6465,7 @@ servants recall the Middle Ages in which it was
 built. As we approached, one of our boatmen
 took up a large conch and, blowing into it, set
 the gorge echoing as from a foghorn; but we
-had decided not to visit the ch�teau, as it was
+had decided not to visit the château, as it was
 our purpose to lunch farther down at La
 Malene, and the sounding of the conch was
 meant only to attract the attention of some
@@ -6492,22 +6476,22 @@ loaves for its inmates.</p>
 
 <h3>V.</h3>
 
-<p>Between Ste. Enimie and La Mal�ne there
+<p>Between Ste. Enimie and La Malène there
 are four or five points at which we have to
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span>
 change our barque, where the river leaps over
 dangerous weirs, and several changes are
 necessary on the lower beach. It is due to
 this man&oelig;uvring and to a wait of nearly two
-hours at La Mal�ne, while the bateliers lunch
+hours at La Malène, while the bateliers lunch
 and gossip boisterously at one of the hotels&mdash;the
 voyageurs also being not unmindful of
 refreshment&mdash;that Le Rozier is not reached
 until six o'clock, despite the rapid course of
 the river.</p>
 
-<p>La Mal�ne is one of the three places south
-of Ste. Enimie, and still in the real ca�on of
+<p>La Malène is one of the three places south
+of Ste. Enimie, and still in the real cañon of
 the Tarn, where the river is crossed by bridges;
 all splendid structures, designed to withstand
 the spring floods when the current carries with
@@ -6515,7 +6499,7 @@ it many a mighty block of ice and all sorts of
 debris from the hills. The first and newest of
 the bridges is passed at St. Chely, a small and
 dirty, but extremely picturesque, hamlet half-way
-between Ste. Enimie and La Mal�ne,
+between Ste. Enimie and La Malène,
 where we explored a wonderful series of
 ancient cave dwellings, and where, by the way,
 an enterprising photographer has joined the
@@ -6524,13 +6508,13 @@ advertisement of his wares on the face of the
 cliff overlooking the former haunts of the
 Troglodites.</p>
 
-<p>La Mal�ne is, to my thinking, one of the
+<p>La Malène is, to my thinking, one of the
 most beautiful points on the route. The little
 town sits in the mouth of a great ravine that
 reaches far into the Causse de Sauveterre,
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span>
 and on the opposite side the majestic mass of
-the Causse M�jan climbs to well-nigh 1,800
+the Causse Méjan climbs to well-nigh 1,800
 feet above the river, the mountain road
 wriggling upward from the bridge in a series
 of wonderful twists and turns, "exactly like
@@ -6545,8 +6529,8 @@ will convey some idea of the barrenness of the
 mountain-side, where cattle and sheep crop
 a scanty herbage on fields that slope like the
 roof of a house and are thickly strewn with
-stones and boulders. At La Mal�ne also
-there is a medi�val castle, which, like La Caze,
+stones and boulders. At La Malène also
+there is a mediæval castle, which, like La Caze,
 is the property of that great tourist agency,
 "La France Pittoresque," and now serves as a
 hotel; but we were more interested in the old
@@ -6554,7 +6538,7 @@ church of Romanesque design, where we saw
 the common grave of the thirty-nine villagers
 who were slain by the Republican troops during
 the Terror, and are remembered throughout
-the Cevennes as "the Martyrs of La Mal�ne."
+the Cevennes as "the Martyrs of La Malène."
 It is striking proof of the terrible thoroughness
 of that bloody regime that even to this remote
 and sequestered nook the gory hand of the
@@ -6571,12 +6555,12 @@ more than any of the Latin peoples they have
 retained and fostered this gift of their Roman
 forebears. The highway they are now constructing
 along the Tarn was almost completed
-between St. Enimie and La Mal�ne,
+between St. Enimie and La Malène,
 at the time of our passing, and a splendid
 road it promised to be, here running like
 a gallery along the face of a cliff and there
 tunnelling some mighty bluff that juts out
-into the ca�on. But the river will always
+into the cañon. But the river will always
 remain the real highway, as the scenery can
 only be viewed to full advantage from a seat
 in a barque, and the bateliers need not fear the
@@ -6590,10 +6574,10 @@ would be difficult to know which part of the
 Tarn is the most beautiful. At St. Enimie
 you would be assured, in the event of your
 being undecided as to the whole trip, that the
-stretch between that town and La Mal�ne was
-by far the best; while at La Mal�ne you would
+stretch between that town and La Malène was
+by far the best; while at La Malène you would
 find the local boatmen emphatic as to the
-unrivalled beauty of the ca�on between that
+unrivalled beauty of the cañon between that
 point and Les Vignes, where the third bridge
 stands; and as surely when you arrived there
 you would be told the Tarn was only beginning
@@ -6617,7 +6601,7 @@ which only a small charge is made.</p>
 
 <p>My own impression, if one can distinguish
 among scenes so differently beautiful, is
-that the ca�on between La Mal�ne and Les
+that the cañon between La Malène and Les
 Vignes presents its most surprising aspect.
 At Les Detroits the giant walls lean forward
 in a bold and menacing way, and further on,
@@ -6658,7 +6642,7 @@ broadening into a smiling and fruitful valley,
 with the great impregnable wall of the Causse
 Noir frowning along its eastern length, is full
 of beautiful vistas; but the wild and rugged
-grandeur of the ca�on has given place to scenes
+grandeur of the cañon has given place to scenes
 of pleasant pastoral life, and we cycle along
 a highway fringed with cherry trees in fruit,
 passing many a populous little town before we
@@ -6703,7 +6687,7 @@ through Tarascon, with its wide and open
 station perched high on a viaduct, and the
 porter bawling in his rich, southern tongue,
 "Tarascon, stop five minutes. Change for
-N�mes, Montpellier, Cette." And if he has&mdash;as
+Nîmes, Montpellier, Cette." And if he has&mdash;as
 he cannot fail to have&mdash;delightful memories
 of the incomparable Tartarin, his feet will itch
 to be out and wander the dusty streets in the
@@ -6724,7 +6708,7 @@ immortality.</p>
 <p>I had been wandering a-wheel over many a
 league of these fair southern roads one summer
 before I found myself at the ancient Roman
-city of N�mes, the rarest treasure of France,
+city of Nîmes, the rarest treasure of France,
 and it was a visit to Daudet's birthplace there
 that suggested the idea of going on to Tarascon
 a desire intensified by the ardour of a gentleman
@@ -6764,7 +6748,7 @@ with him to-day. Of medium height, stout
 of body, scant of hair on his head, but bushy-whiskered
 and jovial-faced, you will see his
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span>
-like sipping absinth at any caf� on the
+like sipping absinth at any café on the
 promenade of the sleepy old town, or playing
 a game of billiards with the grand manner of
 a Napoleon figuring out a campaign.</p>
@@ -6876,7 +6860,7 @@ beast, with whom he had disputed the
 sovereignty of the desert. To all of which,
 as Daudet remarks of the member of the
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span>
-Jockey Club travelling <i>avec sa ni�ce</i>, "Hum!
+Jockey Club travelling <i>avec sa nièce</i>, "Hum!
 hum!"</p>
 
 <p>One may note here that the author did first
@@ -6912,7 +6896,7 @@ eye of kindly caricature.
 
 <p>Tartarin was, in a word, an epitomy of
 innocent vanities; large-hearted, generous,
-he had the C�sarian ambition to be the first
+he had the Cæsarian ambition to be the first
 man in his town; he was imbued with the
 national hunger for "<i>la Gloire</i>," and many
 were the amusing ways in which he sought to
@@ -7021,7 +7005,7 @@ them any nearer. This bridge is never crossed&mdash;in
 the first place, because it's very dangerous.
 The people of Beaucaire no more go
 to Tarascon than those of Tarascon go to
-Beaucaire." As the gentleman I met at N�mes
+Beaucaire." As the gentleman I met at Nîmes
 would have said, "Zut! It is not true."
 But that is neither here nor there.</p>
 
@@ -7075,7 +7059,7 @@ opposite the picturesque mass of Bellicardo,
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span>
 are the massive walls of the ancient castle of
 Tarascon, founded by Count Louis II. in the
-fourteenth century and finished by King R�n�
+fourteenth century and finished by King Réné
 of Anjou in the fifteenth, and at one time
 tenanted by Pope Urbain II., but now, like
 many another palace of kings, fallen to the
@@ -7128,7 +7112,7 @@ the bridge is the "Hotel of the Emperors,"
 close by the Hospice at the opening of the
 Promenade. This title is worthy of Daudet
 himself! Along the south side of the
-Promenade stand the chief caf�s and shops;
+Promenade stand the chief cafés and shops;
 as one sits by a table at a door watching the
 passers-by, the scene is entirely agreeable.
 Everybody seems to have walked out of
@@ -7153,7 +7137,7 @@ possesses. There go a pair of comfortable-looking
 priests in their long black gowns,
 their good fat fingers twined behind them;
 but nowhere do we see the white habit of the
-friars, whose monastery of Pamp�rigouste the
+friars, whose monastery of Pampérigouste the
 gallant Tartarin and his crusaders defended
 from the Government troops so long ago!
 The women-folk whom one sees about are nearly
@@ -7265,8 +7249,8 @@ account of the strange ceremony from a writer
 on old customs (William S. Walsh), who informs
 us that "the famous Miracle Play of
 'Sainte Marthe et la Tarasque,' instituted, it
-was said, by King R�n� in 1400, was one of
-the last Proven�al <i>coronlas</i> to disappear, as in
+was said, by King Réné in 1400, was one of
+the last Provençal <i>coronlas</i> to disappear, as in
 its day it was one of the most popular. Even
 after the Mystery Play was itself abandoned,
 a remnant of it lingered on until the middle of
@@ -7366,7 +7350,7 @@ southern twilight.
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a></span>
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span></p>
 
-<h2>"La F�te Dieu"</h2>
+<h2>"La Fête Dieu"</h2>
 
 <hr class="l15" />
 
@@ -7378,7 +7362,7 @@ No one who has happened to be travelling in
 Normandy or Brittany&mdash;or indeed in almost
 any of the French provinces&mdash;about this time
 of the year can have failed to notice the
-celebration of the F�te Dieu, and many may
+celebration of the Fête Dieu, and many may
 have wondered what it was all about. It
 has existed so long as one of the national
 customs, varying in its observance in different
@@ -7396,7 +7380,7 @@ of fair France, and following hard upon
 the upsetting of monastic peace, came the
 prohibition of religious processions in public.
 The effect of this order was to limit the
-f�te in many places to a mere perambulation
+fête in many places to a mere perambulation
 of the exterior of the church, and in others
 the procession was confined entirely to the
 interior, though here and there, it would seem,
@@ -7421,38 +7405,38 @@ to stir up a new crusade on behalf
 of his former diocese of Jerusalem, that
 officially recognised and instituted as regular
 offices of the church in 1264 the ceremonies
-connected with the F�te Dieu. But, despite
+connected with the Fête Dieu. But, despite
 this papal ordinance, the festival did not
 become one of general observance until, some
 generations later, there had grown around the
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span>
 purely religious part of it a mass of painfully
-secular tomfoolery, which turned the f�te into
+secular tomfoolery, which turned the fête into
 a great saturnalia. In the days of that merry
-monarch, King R�n�, it had assumed such
+monarch, King Réné, it had assumed such
 proportions that an entire week was devoted
 to the celebration, "courts of love," tournaments,
 jousts, mystery plays, and many other
 amusements being associated with the solemn
 procession of the sacred sacrament. Flourishing
-more or less, the f�te continued annually,
+more or less, the fête continued annually,
 without interruption until the great Revolution,
 which gave short shrift to the old taste
 for processions; but under Louis XVIII. it
 was re-established, and the State even furnished
 troops as escorts for those taking part
 in the processions. Times are changed indeed
-when we find <i>Le P�lerin</i>, an illustrated weekly
+when we find <i>Le Pèlerin</i>, an illustrated weekly
 newspaper devoted entirely to the interests
 of pilgrimages, publishing cartoons which
 show the police dispersing the pious participants
-in the procession of the F�te Dieu,
+in the procession of the Fête Dieu,
 while rowdy socialists are permitted to wave
 their red rags in the highway.</p>
 
 <div class="figcenter"><a name="i-321" id="i-321"></a>
 <img src="images/i-321.jpg" width="355" height="550" alt=""  />
-<p class="caption">PROCESSION OF LA F�TE DIEU</p>
+<p class="caption">PROCESSION OF LA FÊTE DIEU</p>
 
 <p class="caption"><i>Photographed at Morlaix, in Brittany</i></p>
 </div>
@@ -7472,7 +7456,7 @@ officials. Throughout Normandy it was a
 rare thing to see men taking part; but in
 Brittany, and especially at the quaint old
 town of Morlaix, which is famed for its high
-railway bridge and its F�te Dieu, and holds
+railway bridge and its Fête Dieu, and holds
 an extremely jolly kermesse, with dancing
 and the selling of cheap rubbish, immediately
 after the holy sacrament has been carried
@@ -7480,11 +7464,11 @@ through the streets, a larger proportion of
 men were to be seen engaging in the ceremony;
 while in the far south, among the peasants of
 Provence and Aveyron, the men have long
-been as attached to this and similar f�tes of
+been as attached to this and similar fêtes of
 the church as the women, taking part with a
 comic gravity of demeanour absurdly out of
 keeping with their usually gay and careless
-behaviour. Generally speaking, the F�te
+behaviour. Generally speaking, the Fête
 Dieu, as celebrated during modern years, has
 been a picturesque, but brief and inoffensive
 ceremonial, that did not greatly disturb
@@ -7500,7 +7484,7 @@ find that it has, by its very prohibition,
 reawakened interest in this ancient and
 decrepid institution of the church.</p>
 
-<p>As for the familiar procession of the F�te
+<p>As for the familiar procession of the Fête
 Dieu, there is not very much to describe: a
 brief notice of one may be taken as typical of
 all. The first indication that the visitor would
@@ -7575,7 +7559,7 @@ meant them to last for ever," was Ruskin's
 advice. "Proceed as if your procession had
 started at the Flood and was going on till
 Doomsday," would seem to be the motto that
-inspires the demonstrators in the F�te Dieu.</p>
+inspires the demonstrators in the Fête Dieu.</p>
 
 <p>In the distance the sound of music is heard,
 and after a time at the far end of the road
@@ -7631,7 +7615,7 @@ in some parts of the country assist in the
 procession. In the past many unseemly disturbances
 arose out of the rivalry of these
 brotherhoods as to their respective privileges
-in the F�te Dieu, and the sacred function was
+in the Fête Dieu, and the sacred function was
 often marred by the most disgraceful scenes of
 rowdyism as the rivals fought for precedence,
 and especially for the right of bearing the
@@ -7771,7 +7755,7 @@ of many a story and poem by French writers.</p>
 along the main road, I noticed a small,
 plain building, almost the last of the few
 straggling houses in that direction, bearing in
-bold letters the legend "Mus�e Miln." The
+bold letters the legend "Musée Miln." The
 name had a pleasant suggestion of my ain
 countree, and in a trice I was knocking at
 the door, curious to know what lay behind. A
@@ -7783,7 +7767,7 @@ in his shirt sleeves, and wearing a pair
 of carpet slippers; certainly presenting no
 aspect of the antiquary or the scholar, although
 it was not long before I found that he was a
-man of remarkable attainments in arch�ology.
+man of remarkable attainments in archæology.
 As far as I remember, the charge for admission
 was one franc, and although at first it seemed
 a large price to pay for looking at a roomful
@@ -7822,7 +7806,7 @@ very ordinary oil painting of his old friend and
 master, which disclosed him as a fresh-complexioned,
 white-haired gentleman of unmistakable
 Scottish type, and assured me that he
-was "<i>un homme tr�s interessant et tr�s aimable</i>."
+was "<i>un homme très interessant et très aimable</i>."
 I could readily believe the eulogy, as it was a
 kindly old Scotch face that looked out of the
 canvas at me.</p>
@@ -7856,7 +7840,7 @@ except in the place of their birth.</p>
 Scotsman and his work is gleaned from the
 scholarly little brochure written by M. Zacharie
 le Rouzic, the slippered custodian of the
-"Mus�e Miln." It appears that James Miln
+"Musée Miln." It appears that James Miln
 was born at Woodhill in 1819, and while still
 young travelled in India, China, and spent
 some years in other parts of the far east. On
@@ -7886,7 +7870,7 @@ collection of photographs of ancient sculptures
 in the east of Scotland. An accomplished
 linguist and something of an artist, he illustrated
 with his own pencil all his works on
-arch�ology, which M. Le Rouzic assures us
+archæology, which M. Le Rouzic assures us
 was always his favourite study.</p>
 
 <p>It was during the summer of 1873 that Miln
@@ -7953,11 +7937,11 @@ at twelve minutes to eleven, as the faithful
 M. le Rouzic records.</p>
 
 <p>James Miln was a member of the Scottish
-Society of Antiquaries, la Soci�t� royale des
+Society of Antiquaries, la Société royale des
 Antiquaries du Nord, the Academy of Copenhagen,
 and several learned societies in England
 and the Continent. "<i>C'est avec une douloureuse
-�motion que l'on apprit, � Carnac, la
+émotion que l'on apprit, à Carnac, la
 nouvelle de sa mort</i>," to quote again his faithful
 henchman. The museum with its precious
 contents was secured to Carnac through the
@@ -8092,7 +8076,7 @@ and in the course of wide wanderings
 through the highways and by-ways of the
 most delightful land in Europe I have witnessed
 many fairs in towns so far apart as
-Morlaix and Montlu�on, Orleans and Beaucaire,
+Morlaix and Montluçon, Orleans and Beaucaire,
 Rennes and Lisieux. Nowhere does
 the distinctive character of a people show
 itself more strongly than in its public fairs and
@@ -8271,7 +8255,7 @@ symbols of Catholic worship.</p>
 
 <p>But the real interest of the fair, and, of
 course, its most picturesque part, lies in the
-great Boulevard Alexandr� Martin, which
+great Boulevard Alexandré Martin, which
 stretches eastward from the railway station.
 Here are congregated most of the places
 of entertainment. These, no less than the
@@ -8315,7 +8299,7 @@ electricity generated by an excellent portable
 plant, the performers better dressed. But
 curiously enough, the finest travelling circus I
 have ever seen in any land was Anderson's
-"Cirque F�erique," which I came upon during
+"Cirque Féerique," which I came upon during
 a flying visit to the industrial town of Vierzon,
 some hundred and twenty-five miles south of
 Paris. The proprietor was a Scotsman!
@@ -8360,7 +8344,7 @@ type of "strolling-players."</p>
 <p>One of the most detestable features of an
 English fair is the appalling noise created by
 mechanical organs. This is happily absent
-from the French f�te, and of the few contrivances
+from the French fête, and of the few contrivances
 of the kind which I remember at
 Orleans there was only one designed solely
 for the sake of noise. Perhaps the most
@@ -8371,16 +8355,16 @@ lighted wooden building, whirled an
 endless chain of fairy coaches, hobby horses,
 swan boats, and other fantastic vehicles,
 eminently contrived for the purpose of producing
-giddiness. This was truly the <i>pi�ce
+giddiness. This was truly the <i>pièce
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span>
-de r�sistance</i> of the Orleans Fair, and it would
+de résistance</i> of the Orleans Fair, and it would
 be impossible to conceive a more striking
 contrast than that between this really magnificent
 construction and the familiar English
 merry-go-round. Externally the building
 would have borne favourable comparison with
 a "Palace of Electricity" at some of our
-international exhibitions. The fa�ade was of
+international exhibitions. The façade was of
 Byzantine style, and myriads of beautifully-coloured
 electric lamps picked out the design,
 two huge peacocks with outspread tails, also
@@ -8394,7 +8378,7 @@ making up a veritable feast of light that
 must dazzle and fascinate the simple country-folk
 wherever this wonderful merry-go-round
 is set up. At a moderate estimate, I should
-name �10,000 as the cost of this single show,
+name £10,000 as the cost of this single show,
 and perhaps that will indicate the lavish way
 in which the French are catered for by their
 travelling showmen.</p>
@@ -8530,7 +8514,7 @@ to the children every Thursday."
 So ran the circular, which also contained the
 information (mendacious, I doubt not) that
 the entertainment was the property of a
-limited company with a capital of �20,000.
+limited company with a capital of £20,000.
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span></p>
 
 <p>When the signal to begin was given the
@@ -8556,7 +8540,7 @@ and so on through the whole series.</p>
 <p>It must be confessed that the performance
 was carried out with no small dramatic ability,
 and M. Chaumont gave a wonderfully realistic
-interpretation of the r�le of Christ, some
+interpretation of the rôle of Christ, some
 of the tableaux being strikingly conceived,
 as, for examples, the kiss of Judas and Christ
 before Pilate, the latter character being admirably
@@ -8625,7 +8609,7 @@ gathered together a collection of incredible
 horrors which men and women, and even
 young people, were allowed to inspect on the
 payment of one franc. The same exhibition,
-which is probably not over-valued at �20,000,
+which is probably not over-valued at £20,000,
 was actually brought to London some few
 years ago, but the police speedily cleared it
 out of our country.
@@ -8937,7 +8921,7 @@ the Cellar, the Salle des Chevaliers, and
 above the latter the open Cloister, the most
 perfect example of its kind in the world.
 The eastern part begins with the Almonry,
-above which is the Salle des H�tes, and on
+above which is the Salle des Hôtes, and on
 the top of that the Refectory.</p>
 
 <p>The whole effect of the Merveille is superb,
@@ -8997,9 +8981,9 @@ south.
 <p>Having completed the tour around the
 Mount, the visitor should proceed along the
 ramparts, and reach the entrance to the Abbey
-by the staircase known as the Grand Degr�,
+by the staircase known as the Grand Degré,
 which leads into the Barbican, and through
-the massive and beautiful Ch�telet into the
+the massive and beautiful Châtelet into the
 more ancient entrance of the Abbey, known
 as Belle-Chaise, where are situated the Guard
 Room and the Government Room. Here the
@@ -9068,7 +9052,7 @@ way that is a model to present-day builders,
 the monks wrote and illuminated the manuscripts
 which earned for the abbey the title of
 "The City of Books." Reached from this
-room is the Salle des H�tes, wherein the grand
+room is the Salle des Hôtes, wherein the grand
 visitors were entertained by the abbot in a
 style befitting their rank, as under the rule
 of St. Benedict it was forbidden for laymen to
@@ -9178,13 +9162,13 @@ ages past. Then if rain should keep us
 prisoner for an hour or two at times, we need
 not weary sitting at our window, watching
 the carriages and bicycles arriving at the
-entrance to the Cour de l'Avanc�e, where
+entrance to the Cour de l'Avancée, where
 they are immediately besieged by representatives
 of each of the hotels, and probably a
 simple Briton, innocent of French or the ways
 of this curious community, will find himself
 divided into three, his luggage being captured
-by the representative of Poulard <i>a�n�</i>, his
+by the representative of Poulard <i>aîné</i>, his
 <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span>
 bicycle being taken by the tout for Poulard
 <i>jeune</i>, and he himself led captive by the
@@ -9257,360 +9241,6 @@ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original
 document have been preserved.</p>
 </div>
 
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author	nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>	2025-03-07 18:35:12 -0800
committer	nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>	2025-03-07 18:35:12 -0800
commit	c6536cf3cfe825dd285f67e28e799602a0ad4846 (patch)
tree	bed0303604abf206e36bbc86497f673b58bc5ba8 /43209-h
parent	88ac9187e321e6b89e1f25ce975007f09386e246 (diff)