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diff --git a/43203-0.txt b/43203-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..adab565 --- /dev/null +++ b/43203-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1427 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Kensington, Notting Hill, and Paddington, by +An Old Inhabitant + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Kensington, Notting Hill, and Paddington + + +Author: An Old Inhabitant + + + +Release Date: July 12, 2013 [eBook #43203] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KENSINGTON, NOTTING HILL, AND +PADDINGTON*** + + +Transcribed from the 1882(?) Griffiths & Co. edition by David Price, +email ccx074@pglaf.org. Many thanks to the Royal Borough of Kensington +and Chelsea Libraries for allowing their copy to be used for this +transcription. + + + + + + KENSINGTON, NOTTING HILL, + AND + PADDINGTON: + + + WITH + + _Remembrances of the Locality_ + 38 _Years Ago_. + + * * * * * + + * * * * * + + BY AN OLD INHABITANT. + + * * * * * + + PROFITS OF THIS EDITION GIVEN TO THE BAZAAR FUND FOR THE + NEW ORGAN AT WESTBOURNE GROVE CHAPEL. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY GRIFFITHS & Co., “PADDINGTON MERCURY” OFFICE, + 58, PORCHESTER ROAD, W. + + + + +_Dedicated to my Young Friends_. + + +I have thought it would be interesting to you to know something about the +locality in which you live, as it was in times gone by. + +The changes have been marvellous, but not more than many others within my +recollection. + +I knew the time when gas was not used, but when streets and shops were +lighted with oil lamps. When no police guarded our streets, but watchmen +paid their half-hourly visits crying out “past 11 o’clock, &c., and a +starlight night, &c.” + +I remember when no omnibuses ran, and cabmen sat by the side of their +fares. + +When 4-horse coaches ran to Greenwich, Kensington, and other suburban +places. + +When the only way to obtain a light was to strike a flint on a piece of +steel, and catch the sparks on tinder, and to puff at the tinder till it +lighted a brimstone match. + +When the Great Reform Bill was passing, and I used to be let out of +school at 2 o’clock, because the men of Birmingham and Manchester, &c., +threatened to march to London—The Tower was fortified—Temple Bar guarded. + +I remember George the Fourth’s burial, and the people making a grand +holiday. + +I saw the procession at William the Fourth’s Coronation, and also at that +of Queen Victoria. + + “Long may she live.” + + + + +PART I. +“NOTES” OF KENSINGTON, NOTTING HILL, AND PADDINGTON. + + +Before entering upon my own remembrances of Kensington and Paddington, it +will be interesting to notice some things connected with the history of +these places. + +Kensington is mentioned in the Domesday Book as Chenesiton. Chenesi was +a proper name, and “Lyson” says that in the time of Edward the Confessor +a person of that name held a manor in Somersetshire. It may be that +Kensington was once a town belonging to a “Chenesi.” At the time of the +Romans this district comprised the northern boundary of the marshes +formed by the overflowing of the Thames, Chelsea and Fulham being liable +to inundation, but the higher elevation of a great portion of this parish +rendered it fit for cultivation. + +In 1218, in the reign of Henry III., it was disafforested. Before this +time it, with Paddington, had formed a portion of the Forest of +Middlesex. + +In Henry the Eighth’s time a great portion of Notting Hill and Paddington +was still forest as appears from records dated 1543. + +In 1610 Sir Walter Cope became possessed of the manor of St. Mary Abbot’s +by a grant from the Queen. It is recorded that he died possessed of the +manor called Earl’s Court, Kensyngton, with its appurtenances, in +Kensyngton, Chelsey, Hammersmith and St. Margaret’s, Westminster. Two +hundred acres belonging to the Ould House Kensyngton and all that wood +called Notting Wood or Knotting Wood, for which he paid as under:— + +Manor of Abbot’s £5 0 0 per ann. +Earl’s Court 2 0 0 ,, +Ould House and land 5 0 0 „ +Knotting wood 1 0 0 ,, +St. Margaret’s Westminster 1 0 0 ,, + +The Kensington division of the hundred of Ossulstan includes Fulham, +Hammersmith, Chiswick, Acton, part of Brentford, Ealing, Willesden and +Chelsea. + +The name of the hundred is probably derived from the German word Waassel +which signifies water. Others suggest Ousel, a bird, Ossultun, a town +noted for its birds. + + + +AGRICULTURE AND GARDENING. + + +Fifty years ago the greater portion of Kensington and Paddington was +under cultivation for corn, market gardening, nurseries and grass land. + +It would appear from ancient records that in past time the temperature of +England must have been much higher than at present, for we read of +vineyards and of wine being produced in very large quantities. Of those +vineyards, especially about Brompton, there are many records. + +“Bewick” writes of a spot of ground called Brompton Park as being famed +all over the kingdom for the growth of plants, and adds the stock is so +large that if reckoned only at a penny each plant the whole value would +be above £40,000. + +PADDINGTON in the time of Edgar was given to the monks of Westminster at +the cost of two hides of land. As the value of a hide of land in Henry +the First’s time was 3/-, the monks had a good bargain. + +The name is of doubtful derivation, Pad may mean a path or a robber. It +may also mean a saddle. The place may have been infested by robbers, or +it may have been a place where travellers stopped to bait their horses +and “re-padded.” + +Pope Nicolas IV. gave the whole proceeds of the manor of Paddington to +the poor. + +This manor at the reformation passed into the hands of the Established +Church. Much as I value the Reformation I cannot pass on without asking +what the people to whom this manor of Paddington was given have done for +the poor. If the poor had that which others have taken from them we +should not have the sad spectacle of old couples driven into a workhouse +in which no provision is made for them to end their days together. +Married by a church which says “What God has joined together let no man +put asunder.” That very church has become possessed of the means which +would have enabled them to end their days in peace and comfort. + +In Henry the Eighth’s time the manor of Paddington was valued at £41 16s. +8d. Edward the Sixth granted the manor and rectory to Bishop Ridley, +then Bishop of London, and to his heirs and successors. + +KENSINGTON church lands were also very extensive, as much property was +given in the reign of Henry the First to the monastery of Abingdon. St. +Mary Abbot’s district of Kensington will indicate the ground which was +thus handed over to the abbots. + +In 1527 a curate of Kensington (Sebastian Harris) was charged with having +in his possession a New Testament and a Lutheran book. + +He was ordered to leave Kensington within 2 days and not to return within +4 miles of the place for 2 years. + +Tyndale’s New Testament was published 1525. + +In 1612, in the reign of James I., the Archdeacon and other officials of +churches were commanded to make answer to certain questions which threw +some light upon the condition of the church and people of Kensington. +From those answers I gather— + +1. That all the parishioners receive Communion at Easter. + +2. That the ministers are very careful about baptizing children at the +font. + +3. There is no stranger preacher, only men of worth. + +4. That they intend to have a new Bible shortly. + +5. That two poor men teach the children—sometimes they have a few, +sometimes none. They are men of honest behaviour and sound of religion. + +6. That there was a woman—Alice Maybanke—who did not go to church, but +frequented an ale house. + +7. That certain strangers were excommunicated for not attending +Communion at Easter. + +8. Also one honest man, who had been tried by the Archdeacon, and not +satisfying him, he, the honest man, was excommunicated. + +Non-Communicants, none. Communicants (both sexes), 400. + +As the authorized version of the Bible was printed in 1611 it is probable +the churchwardens wished to substitute that for the Bishops’ Bible which +was published 1568. + +And as James I. had stated that “he would make all men conform or harry +them out of the land, or else worse,” perhaps the strangers and honest +man were Baptists, Independents, or Puritans. + +A happier time, however, came with William III. + +The old church, which was taken down a few years since, was built in +1696, King William III. giving £300 and Princess Ann £100 towards the +cost, the whole charge of which was £1,800. + +In 1811 it was repaired and improved at a cost to the ratepayers of +£3,000. + +The first organ cost £500. + +Some financial extracts from the old parish books may be interesting and +amusing— + + £ s. d. +1698 Paid the ringers for the King’s 00 06 08 + coming home +1703 Paid for prayer books at general 00 3 06 + thanksgiving +1704 Paid Mr. Jackson for a barrel of 00 15 00 + beer for victory over French and + Bavarians +1709 Paid ringers for forcing the French 00 13 04 + lines +1712 Paid ringers when the Queen made 00 6 08 + her speech for peace (N.B.) +1713 Paid ringers when the Peace came 00 6 08 + over +1714 Paid ringers for the pious memory 00 13 04 + of Queen Ann +1716 Ditto, when King George went 00 6 08 + through the town +Aug. 1 For a bonfire and Ringers 00 5 08 +1683 Collection by order of the Bishop 03 12 06 + for relief of poor of London +1693 Paid for a truss of straw for a 00 00 04 + poor soldier + Paid for maimed soldiers 00 06 00 +1694 1 bushel of coals for a poor family 00 01 00 +1711 Paid for French prisoners and a 00 01 00 + woman at Wingsdale Barn +1727 Paid charity boys for blowing organ 00 16 00 + bellows and ringing the saint’s + bell for one whole year + Paid Theef Ketchers enquiring who 00 09 00 + robbed the Church + +Kensington was not at all a noted place until William III. ennobled it +with his court and residence. + +Noel House, Kensington Goar, was built 1804. + +Kensington House about William Third’s time. + +Kensington Square in James Second’s reign, 1698. + +Church Street probably took its name from the church at the end, or from +the house called Church House, which was occupied by the “poore of the +sufferance.” + +Camden House was built by Sir Baptist Hickes, who possessed considerable +property in the parish in 1612. + +Phillamore Place was built 1787, and in 1811 David Wilkie, Esq., R.A., +resided here. His works the “Blind Fiddler,” “Rent Day,” “Village +Holiday,” &c., will be remembered by all. + +Sir Isaac Newton, who by the way was never married, lived on Camden Hill. +Here he died, March 20th, 1726–7, at the age of 84. + +His nephew wrote of him. “His whole life was one continued series of +labour, patience, charity, generosity, temperance, piety, goodness and +all other virtues without any mixture of vice whatever.” + +The Royal Palace of Kensington is situated in the parish of St. +Margaret’s, Westminster. + +The original mansion was built by a person named Finch, one of whose +descendants was promoted to the Peerage. The house was then called +Nottingham House. + +The 2nd Earl of Nottingham sold it to King William III., 1691, for 18,000 +guineas, and here, December 28, 1694, Queen Mary died of small pox. + +William, who was much attached to this palace, divided his time between +Hampton Court and Kensington. + +In the month of February, 1702, he was thrown from his horse and brought +back to Kensington, where he died March 8, 1702, in the 52nd year of his +age. + +Queen Ann and Prince George of Denmark were the next inhabitants of the +palace. The Queen died here August 1, 1714. + +In the reign of George I. the palace was much altered and improved. +George II. died in this palace 25th October, 1760, aged 77. + +The State Apartments were not occupied afterwards. + +The lower apartments, in the south-east portion of the palace, were for +some years occupied by the late Duke and Duchess of Kent, and on the 24th +May, 1819, an infant princess was born here, who is now our beloved + + QUEEN VICTORIA. + +KENSINGTON GARDENS.—“Bewick” writes, 1705: “Whatever is deficient in the +house is made up in the gardens. There is a noble collection of foreign +plants—every inch is well improved—the whole, with the house, not being +above 26 acres. Her Majesty (Queen Ann) has been pleased to add near 30 +acres more toward the north. Upon this spot nearly 100 men work daily.” + +In George Second’s reign Queen Caroline threw a string of ponds in Hyde +Park into one, so as to form what is called the Serpentine River. + +Her Majesty also added 300 acres from Hyde Park. + +At this time the gardens were only opened on Saturday, whilst His Majesty +and Court went to Richmond, and company appeared only in full dress on +this day. + +Hyde Park was originally Hyde Farm, and belonged to the Monastery of +Westminster. At the Reformation it became vested in the Crown. + +During the Commonwealth the Park was sold in 3 lots. 112 acres on +Bayswater side were bought by Richard Wilcox for £4,141, and John Tracey +bought 177 acres on the Kensington side for £3,906 7s. 6d. + +Anthony Deane, of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, bought Tyburn Meadow, a +banqueting house at Park Corner, Bayard’s watering, a fortification, a +barn and stable, and land down to Park Corner, for £9,020 8s. 2d. + +The fortification was opposite St. George’s Hospital, and another was in +Mount Street, Park Lane. + +These fortifications were hurriedly put up by the inhabitants to prevent +the royalist army reaching London. + +Hudibras writes: + + “Marched rank and file, with drum and ensign. + T’entrench the city for defence in; + Raised rampiers with their own soft hands, + To put the enemy to stands. + + “From ladies down to oyster wenches + Laboured like pioneers in trenches, + Fal’n to their pick axes and tools, + And helped the men to dig like moles.” + + + +HORTON STREET CHAPEL, + + +Formerly a Congregational Chapel, now a Baptist, was erected principally +by Mr. Forsyth, head gardener to George III.; Mr. Thomas Broadwood, of +Pulteney Street, and Mr. Saunders, body coachman to George III., with +whom he was a great favourite. The King was much accustomed to converse +with the latter upon religious subjects. The first minister who +officiated was the Rev. Mr. Hall, of Edinburgh. The first stated +minister was Dr. Lake, who left to take a curacy in the Established +Church. He was succeeded by Rev. John Clayton, who was afterwards +minister of Poultry Chapel. + +Dr. Liefchild succeeded him, then Dr. Vaughan, then Dr. Stoughton, for +whom, after many years, a new chapel was built in Allen Street. + + +SILVER STREET CHAPEL, + + +Now Westbourne Grove Baptist Chapel, was erected 1823 by several humble +Christian men, who were soon joined by Mr. Baxter, editor of the Polyglot +Bible. The names of Mr. Farmer, Mr. Worger and Mr. Baxter ought to be +remembered by the Church. + +The first pastor was Rev. W. Southwood 1826–1830 +The second Rev. John Broad 1831–1841 +The third Rev. John Berg 1841–1843 +The fourth Rev. Frances Wills 1843–1847 +The fifth Rev. W. G. Lewis 1847–1881 + +Under Mr. Lewis the church increased so much that it was felt necessary +to take ground to build a larger chapel. + + + +WESTBOURNE GROVE BAPTIST CHAPEL + + +Was erected 1853. The first cost was £5,500. Galleries had soon to be +erected at cost of £579, and in 1866 it was thought necessary to enlarge +the building by adding 16 feet on each side at cost of £5,895; total, +£11,974, the whole of which was raised by voluntary subscriptions, under +the pastorate of the Rev. W. G. Lewis. In 1881 Rev. J. Tuckwell, of +Luton, accepted the pastorate, and under his ministry the church and +congregation have largely increased. On the 20th of April, 1882, one of +the finest organs in London was opened here, which has added much to the +beauty of the building. It was built by Brindley and Foster, of +Sheffield, at a cost of £820. + +Horbury chapel was a sister church of Hornton Street, and was erected +about 1846. The present honoured pastor, Rev. W. Roberts, being the +first minister. + +In 1831 the populate of Kensington was 20,945 +1881 ,, ,, 162,924 + +1831 there were 3 Sunday Schools with 263 children. + +In 1801 the populate of Paddington was 1,881 +In 1831 ,, ,, 14,540 +1881 ,, ,, 107,098 + +In 1811 I see the inhabitants of Kensington were very unequally divided. + +Males 4,244 +Females 6,642 + +I cannot say if this inequality still exists. + + + + +PART II. +“REMEMBRANCES” OF KENSINGTON, NOTTING HILL & PADDINGTON, 38 YEARS AGO. + + +The first time I heard of Notting Hill was many years since. I was asked +to sign a petition, the prayer of which pleaded for Parliamentary +interference to stop the action of the Proprietors of the Hippodrome at +Notting Hill from running horses on Sundays. I have heard since that +races were not run upon that day, but horses were tried as a preliminary +step to the races during the week. + +In 1844, when I first became acquainted with the neighbourhood, I +enquired what had become of the race-course and was shown an open +country,—the place now occupied by St. John’s Church, Notting Hill, being +the spot on which the grand stand had been erected, and the course as +nearly as I can describe is now covered by Clarendon Road, Cornwall Road, +Portobello Road, Horbury Terrace and Ladbroke Square. I found that the +inhabitants had insisted upon a right of way across the grounds, and +taking the law into their own hands, with hatchets and saws had removed +the barriers and thus by maintaining their right to cross the ground when +they pleased caused the racing men to abandon it. + +The changes which have taken place in the parishes are to my mind so +marvellous that I think it will not be uninteresting to those whose +acquaintance is of a later date to record what I remember of the locality +38 years ago. + +Starting from Edgware Road and passing down what was then called the +Uxbridge Road, now known as the Bayswater Road. On the south side Hyde +Park was enclosed by the old iron railings which were pulled down by the +mob a few years since. Kensington Gardens were enclosed by an old wall +which I esteemed to be a disgrace to London. + +The narrow pathway outside the wall was used by the parish authorities as +a suitable place to keep reserved heaps of broken granite for repairing +the road. + +The spot now occupied by Palace Gardens was also enclosed and formed a +kitchen garden to the Kensington Palace. + +On the north side from Edgware Road, Connaught Terrace and a few houses +on either side of the Burial Ground were existing, but Hyde Park Gardens +were not. A little further on however was an old public house standing +at the corner of a road known as Elm Grove and beyond that several wooden +shops, one occupied as an oyster and ginger beer dealer and the other by +a coach maker, beyond this was the Parish Ground known as “Bread and +Cheese” land, occupied by a Mr. Cheese as Tea Gardens and by Mr. Hopwood +as a Nursery Ground. Passing some villas we arrived at the “Black Lion” +standing at the corner of Queen’s Road, then known as “Black Lion Lane,” +then on to Bark Place and Orme Square, which was built by a Mr. Orme, +formerly a print-seller in Bond Street, who also erected Bayswater +Chapel, in St. Petersburgh Place. Behind these were Moscow Road and +Coburgh Place, erected in 1814. + +Beyond Petersburg Place was Victoria Place, which led to a field upon +which are now built Leinster and Princes Squares and Kensington Gardens +Square. + +A footpath across this field led to Westbourne Grove. This footpath was +the only way except Black Lion Lane by which Westbourne Grove could be +reached. So much was this field in the country that I have several times +seen Sunday School children taken there for their annual excursions. + +A little farther down the road was Camden Street, a perfect rookery. +Dirty men, women and children infested this place. Beyond this was +Stourmont House, at that time a ladies’ school but it had been occupied +by the Earl of Craven and let by him to Queen Ann as a nursery for the +Duke of Gloucester. Dean Swift lodged here in 1712. + +By the side of Stourmont House was Linden Grove—at that time a quiet +grove in which resided several noted artists, including the celebrated +Mr. Mulready, R.A. + +Opposite Linden Grove was the Mall, another favourite residence of +artists, and here lived at this time the celebrated Mr. Calcott, R.A., +and Mr. Webster. + +The Mall had in former time been made notorious by Thurtell, the murderer +of Mr. Ware, in whose garden in the Mall the body of the murdered man was +found. + +At the corner of Linden Grove was situated the first shop in the village +of Notting Hill, it was occupied by Mr. Fenn, tailor, who still has a +business at Notting Hill and is the oldest tradesman there. + +Notting Hill at this time was a little country place with few shops and +those very small. It was however beginning to put on an appearance of +life, for four large shops were being erected opposite Silver Street on +the garden ground fronting a mansion which had been a large academy. +This old house and others which have since had shops built in their +forecourts may still be seen. Mr. King’s Italian Warehouse was the first +London shop opened, and a crowd of people nightly assembled to see the +place lighted with gas. + +Shortly afterwards other shops were built before the next mansion which +had been the residence of Madame Vestris. + +In the front of this mansion was the turnpike and the toll-taker’s house. +This was the first turnpike out of London. + +At the corner of Portobello Road, now called Devonshire Terrace, was a +mansion enclosed by a wall, then the residence of the Rev. Mr. Holloway, +minister of Percy Chapel, Fitzroy Square. + +Upon the death of Mr. Holloway this mansion was occupied by Rev. Mr. +Gordon, a Presbyterian minister and the author of a pocket commentary on +the Bible. Mr. Gordon conducted public services for some years on +Sundays in a building attached to his house. + +This mansion was afterwards demolished and shops built upon the site, +which are now occupied by Messrs. Swain, Fenn, Leverett & Fry, Shirley, +and the Devonshire Arms, also the houses by the side, Pembridge Gardens +and Devonshire Terrace. + +I have traced the main road as it appeared in 1844, from Edgware Road to +the house now known as Devonshire Arms. At this point commenced a +country lane, leading partly between hedges and afterwards through fields +to Kensal Green. + +It was a most delightful walk; from certain portions of the lane charming +views could be obtained. This can hardly be understood by the present +inhabitants; it will be made more clear if I say that looking from the +back of either mansion I have mentioned from Stormont House to Portobello +Lane the whole country was open, and only a few farms here and there. +Hampstead, on the north, was visible, and from the hill by the side of +Porto Bello farm, then occupied by Mr. Wise; on the east, London; and on +the north-west, Harrow-on-the-Hill were clearly visible. No wonder that +this pleasant lane was the favourite walk not only of the inhabitants of +Notting Hill but also of many from the great city. + +From west to north, from north to east scarcely a house was to be seen. +Corn fields and meadow land on every side, the quiet only broken by the +occasional passing of a train on the Great Western Railway at Kensal +Green. It seems almost impossible to realize the fact, but it is a fact +that during this 38 years the thousands of houses which are now to be +seen from Ealing to Hampstead, Hampstead to Edgware Road have been built. +Returning to the High Street, in the village of Notting Hill, the little +shops from the Mall on the south side of the street were occupied by some +of the principal tradesmen of that far off day. + +There lived Mr. Burden, who kept a rag and bottle shop, and who was an +orator and a great man on the Kensington Vestry, also a proprietor of +Bayswater omnibuses, whose wife kept a greengrocer’s shop. Poor woman, +she was of such proportions that when she died I saw the coffin lowered +from the bedroom window into the street by ropes. + +There also lived Mr. Brewer, who transacted the largest business of the +village in the grocery, cheesemongery, and corn-dealing line; also a real +candle maker, whose shop was reached up four stone steps. Then came the +first village Inn, the “Swan” at the corner of Silver Street, which, like +the “Hoop” a few doors past Silver Street, stood back from the street and +had a horse trough in front. Of course these inns have been rebuilt, as +also has the more important inn further up on the North side, the “Coach +and Horses.” + +At the corner of Silver Street was a little butcher’s shop, and next door +a brush shop, the proprietor of which was a most intelligent man, but a +“Chartist,” and a great friend of Fergus O’Connor. He was the principal +mover in erecting a monument at Kensal Green over the remains of that +gentleman, who seems, by the present condition of that monument, to have +been forgotten by this generation, although he tried hard to get every +working man a small portion of the land of his birth as a means of +acquiring independency. Many tried it, but they found they could earn +more by labour than they could grow in an acre of the best soil. Close +by where the Notting Hill Gate Station now is stood in those days the +_Village Pump_, concerning the removal of which sundry indignation +meetings were held and fierce threats made of law proceedings. It was +said at these meetings that no such pure water could be obtained any +where else, but as I once lived near _Aldgate Pump_ and used to hear the +same, and drank of that water with relish until the horrid chemists +analized it and said it was full of organic matter, percolating from +Aldgate Churchyard, where the bodies of hundreds had been buried at the +time of the plague, I had ceased to have faith in city or village pumps, +and rejoiced to see an arrangement made by which pure water could be +supplied from the Water Companies’ pipes through a tap. For years this +tap existed in front of No. 71 or 73, High Street, but I find it has been +removed. + +I think, however, there should have been an inscription there— + + “Here stood the Village Pump.” + +There should likewise be another Tablet by Farm Street, stating— + + “Here stood the Village Pound.” + +In which pound I have seen many a disconsolate donkey, horse, or goat. I +never saw the Village Stocks, perhaps the villagers of Notting Hill were +always a sober, law-abiding people, and had no need of such civilizing +structures. + +I remember, however, seeing a man in the stocks at Lewisham, placed there +for being drunk. As he was being well supplied with beer by his +companions, I think it probable the result of the punishment was that he +was more drunken after than before. + +In 1844 there were only two shops in the village above one story high. +The exceptions are now numbered 150, 152; the latter house was then, as +now, a cheesemonger’s. + +The shop windows were principally common glass. Plate glass had not come +into fashion. Some of the shops were lighted with oil lamps, and, I +think, some with candles. + +I cannot speak for the intelligence of all the tradesmen of that time, +but remember a serious conversation with one who, at the conclusion, very +gravely remarked, “I suppose publicans in the time of the Saviour were a +bad sort of people. I go every night to the ‘Coach and Horses’ to have +one glass and a pipe, and the landlord is not a bad sort of a man, but in +old times publicans seem always somehow mixed up with sinners.” + +Behind the south side of High Street, where a number of small houses are +now built, was a large brickfield, owned by a Mr. Clutterbuck. A single +street only was then built, called New Street. The proper name, however, +was Newcombe Street. At the south end of this street was + + + +SILVER STREET BAPTIST CHAPEL AND SCHOOL ROOM. + + +The Church and Congregation of this little chapel afterwards built the +large + + + +WESTBOURNE GROVE CHAPEL. + + +The names of a few of the old church members are still to be found on the +register of the church books at Westbourne Grove Chapel, but the majority +have found a better, more enduring home. “They rest from their labours, +and their works do follow them.” + +Campden Hill Road, at this time called “Plough Lane,” was a private road +leading to large houses, one of which had been occupied by Sir I. Newton. +The high Water Tower which may now be seen as a land mark for many miles +was not then erected. + +At the corner of Plough Lane (the east side now covered with houses and +the north side by shops) stood a mansion surrounded by a wall. This was +occupied by a Captain Coote, a German. I believe both he and his wife +had in former time had something to do with the trial of Queen Caroline +as witnesses for the Queen. + +About 1846 building commenced in earnest. The beautiful Portobello Lane +was denuded of its hedges near Notting Hill, and a roadway cut through to +where Horbury Chapel now stands. Beyond this, in that which is now +Kensington Park Road the first new buildings were erected known at that +time as the Swiss and Italian Villas. Ladbroke Square and other houses +in that locality soon followed. + +On the top of the hill, where once stood Notting Hill Farm and the grand +stand of the Hippodrome Race Ground, the foundation stone of a new +church, St. John’s, was laid about 1846. The last owner of this farm +seems to have been a man highly respected. A tablet was erected to his +memory in the old church at Kensington, from which I make a short +extract: + + “IN MEMORY + + Of John Hall, &c., &c., and of Notting Hill. For those who remember + him that name were his best epitaph. To others it may be useful to + record that John Hall was one who in life, by his good works, and by + fervent faith in death proved that the source of virtue is in the + love of God. + + &c., &c. + + He died August 10, 1816, aged 54.” + +The first minister of St. John’s Church was not so highly esteemed as the +old owner of the Hill had been. It was stated that in asking for +signatures to a petition that the Church should be a District Church, he +misled those who were asked to sign by saying it would make no +difference, but directly the object was attained a church rate was called +for. He became very unpopular, and the last I heard of him was that he +headed a strange procession. Walking through the street he was met by a +crowd following a broker, who had seized a large clock for church rates. +He was immediately surrounded, and compelled to follow the broker to his +house. Some hundreds of people joined in the procession. He soon after +obtained a fresh living, and the church has always since had ministers +who were respected. + + + +PORTOBELLO LANE. + + +The name was given by a Mr. Adams, who was then occupier of the farm at +the end of the lane. It was named at the time Porto Bello was captured. +In 1844 the farm was called Wise’s Farm, Mr. Wise being the owner. + +The lane ended outside the Farm, and a gate opened to a pathway which +lead over a bridge on the canal to Kensal Green. + +To the west of this Farm lay the old Farm of Knotting Barns, an ancient +brick building surrounded by spacious barns and outhouses. A road to +Kensal Green passed through the farm yard. + +In 1844 this was known as Salter’s Farm, Mr. Salter being the proprietor. + +In 1524 it is recorded in the will of Robert Fenrother, Alderman of +London, that Knotting Barns Farm consisted of 40 acres of land, 140 acres +of meadow, 200 acres of wood, 20 acres of moor, 20 acres of furze and +heath. + +In 1543 Henry VIII. took this farm and land in exchange for some he had +held (in the _county of Southampton_). In 1675 it had decreased in size +and was reckoned as 130 acres. How many acres were connected with in +1844 I cannot record, but I have said that on all sides nothing but corn +or meadow land was visible. The site of Portobello Farm may be known as +upon that spot is erected a Roman Catholic building, a home for the aged. + +Notting Barn Farm was at the lower part of St. Mark’s Road. Norland +House, where Norland Square was built in 1850 to 1856, was noted for its +artesian well which was sunk in 1794 by Mr. Vulliamy to the depth of 260 +feet, when the water rose and overflowed at the rate of 46 gallons a +minute. The water was leased to 3 persons at 7/- each per week and sold +in the neighbourhood at 2/6 per ton, or ½d a pailful. + +Thirty-eight years ago there were no houses from Notting Hill Terrace to +Acton with the exception of a few small houses opposite Shepherd’s Bush +Common. This Common had been notorious some years before as a place of +execution for highwaymen, and for years gibbets were standing there with +the remains of some of the fraternity dangling in the wind. I never saw +them, but when a boy I have seen the remains of pirates hanging by chains +by the river side past Greenwich. The Common was even till late years +claimed as the property of the inhabitants, some of whom claimed to the +last the right to turn out their horses or goats upon its scanty grass. + +Behind the road of Notting Hill there was a lane called Pottery Lane. In +this lane was a place where tiles were made and at the end of the lane a +colony of pigkeepers. Every house here had a colony of the porcine +family in its yard. A number of carts filled with tubs passed daily to +London gathering refuse from hotels and mansions to feed the large +families of pigs gathered here. + +It was not a savoury place and at the time of the cholera the inhabitants +suffered severely. + +Rough looking people they appeared, but upon closer acquaintance it was +seen they looked more uncouth than they really were. The only religious +or secular education the people and children received was provided by the +members of the Baptist chapel at Silver Street, and the congregation at +Hornton Street. Their place of meeting for some years, was in an +unfinished house with its unplastered walls on two floors not divided +into separate rooms. + +Their teachers were poor but they had love to God in their hearts and +proved it by their love to their neighbours. + +Their names unrecorded on earth will never be forgotten by Him who said +“Inasmuch as ye did it to the least of these my brethren ye did it to +me.” + +Beyond this colony I discovered another in Latimer Road where there was +no Sabbath teaching or secular education. In looking back I feel +grateful to God for the numbers I was enabled to gather together on the +Sabbath, both of adults and children and also for the many children who +received instruction in a day school I established. It is many years ago +but I meet with some now who thank God that in the Sabbath teaching there +they received that acquaintance with Jesus which has proved a blessing to +them and their children to the present time. But what a place it was +when I first discovered it—comparatively out of the world—a rough road +cut across the field, the only approach. Brickfields and pits on either +side, making it dangerous to leave on dark nights. + +A safe place for many people who did not wish everybody to know what they +were doing. I am afraid that there were more _spirits_ about there than +there were either bodies or bottles to contain. + +I could tell a great deal about Latimer Road in 1844 to 1850, but other +Pharoahs have arisen there who know not Joseph and they are doing a good +work in that which by the opening of a railway station has become a +well-known place. + +Westbourne Grove was a pleasant Grove of small villas with gardens in +front and behind. Newton Road was a similar place. + +The only road by which they could be approached was Black Lion Lane, now +Queen’s Road and a footpath across the field where Princes Square now +stands. + +The Royal Oak was a country inn. + +There were no houses of business then in the Grove, but where the Redan +and about twelve shops down the Grove stand, there was a nursery ground, +which in former times was a favourite resort of Queen Ann. + +The inhabitants of the Grove were principally City or West-end men of +business, who reached their habitation by the Bayswater or Paddington +omnibuses. + +These omnibuses belonged to two companies, the principal proprietors +were:—Messrs. Melliship, Treadaway, Carpenter and Grant. + +The General Omnibus Company afterwards bought up all their vehicles. + +There was also one omnibus, the “Eagle,” which ran from Kensington +Church, through Church Street, Bayswater Road, New Road, Islington to the +Bank. + +There were no cab stands but a stray cab might often be found at the +Black Lion in the Bayswater Road or outside one of the other country +inns. + +Queen’s Road (Black Lion Lane) was only partly built on and the houses +were small. A Wesleyan Chapel and Orphanage stood then on the site of +the Queen’s Road Chapel, and in 1846, a high house (about No. 153, since +taken by Mr. Whiteley) was erected for a Chartist Club House. It +afterwards became the Queen’s Hotel. The houses opposite the baths were +also built about 1846. + +Porchester Terrace was only partially built, but on the west side resided +Mr. Linnel, an artist, whose paintings of corn fields, &c., are so much +admired by all who see them. + +The reader may judge what sort of house the Royal Oak was by looking at +the newspaper shop a few doors away. Beyond this to the railway on both +sides of that which is now Bishop’s Road was a waste wilderness. I only +remember one house and that a wooden one which had an inscription “The +Cottage of Content.” It was a large basin-like piece of land and upon +this Westbourne Terrace, Gloucester Gardens, Bishop’s Road, the north end +of Porchester Terrace, and Craven Hill Road were built. + +The Bishop of that day gave the deepest hole to the parishioners to build +a church—about the worst part of what was then his large estate. It cost +about £2,000 to fill up the hole to its present level before Trinity +Church could be built. This church, like others, the ratepayers paid for +with Church Rates. I had the pleasure of seconding a resolution to make +the _last Church rate in Paddington_. + +St. Mary’s Hospital was commenced about 1845 and under its excellent +management has proved to be a great blessing to Paddington. + +On the site of the Trinity Schools in the Harrow Road was a public Maze, +a great resort for holiday people as it was then completely in the +country. Here too was a magic mirror, in which for twopence any young +lady might behold (?) her future husband. + +In the Harrow Road, opposite the Vestry Hall, stood until 1860, the +oldest charitable buildings in the parish, a block of small almshouses. +They afforded shelter for about 16 poor old women. No doubt they felt +more independent in their actions than they would have done in the +Workhouse. It is doubtful if they were so well cared for as they would +have been in the larger house with its excellent Master and Matron, who +take a great interest in the comfort of all the inmates. + +They are not answerable for the separation of old married couples, +against which separation I strongly protest. + +It is not, however, every married couple who wish to live together; of +this I had a proof once when I asked a man if he would not be more happy +with his aged wife? After a moment’s consideration he answered “Thank +you sir, I have had enough of her.” This I think must have been a rare +exception. + +Kensal Green Cemetery had in 1844 already received not a few bodies but +the majority have been interred since. + +Members of Silver Street Chapel used to look with deep interest at the +tomb of John Colston, a much-loved Superintendent of their Sabbath +School. With the same deep interest many look upon the grave of a later +Superintendent of the School at Westbourne Grove Chapel, the highly +esteemed Thomas Faulkes, whose memory is still dear. How many a member +of the old and also of the new Westbourne Grove Chapel have gone with sad +hearts to that God’s acre. To mention names would be painful to both +reader and writer; I only add “Till He come.” + +A few names of public men and women buried here will, perhaps not, be out +of place:— + +Duke of Sussex, Sydney Smith, Anne Scott and Sophia Lockhart, daughters +of Sir Walter Scott, John Hugh Lockhart his grandson, Thomas Hood, +Thackeray, Calcott, Mulready, John Leach, John Cassel, The Princess +Sophia of Gloucester, Statesmen, Poets, Actors, Artists, Physicians and +Quacks. The rich and the poor have all found here one common resting +place, but amongst those unmentioned names how many an one whom the world +has not esteemed will be found in the end to be among the number of whom +the “world was not worthy.” + +In writing the history of the transformation of Notting Hill from country +to its present condition I must mention a gentleman, the Rev. Mr. Walker, +who it was said came to the neighbourhood with half a million sterling to +invest. Who were his advisers I do not know; but he was not long in +causing hundreds of carcases of houses to be built. If he had commenced +his operations on the London side of the estate no doubt the houses would +have sold and a fine investment made, but as he preferred building from +Clarendon Road (where roads were not made) towards London the land was +covered with unfinished houses which continued in a ruinous condition for +years and the consequence was the investor was almost ruined. + +This gentleman built All Saints Church and intended to put upon it a +spire as high as that on Salisbury Cathedral. Sad tales could be told of +not a few who sank their all in bricks and mortar. Lawyers and +money-lenders have in time past reaped a rich harvest at Notting Hill, +but many a hard working man falling into their hands has been ruined. + +Between Richmond Road and Ledbury Road is a road called Artesian Road. +This is in remembrance of an artesian well which was sunk there. The +water was very pure and cold and houses in Ledbury Road and in its +neighbourhood were supplied with water from this well until the water +companies bought it up. + +The Richmond Road was built about 1848. Mr. Plimley, fruiterer, and Mr. +Anderson, confectioner, are the oldest inhabitants. Sutherland Place, +Courtnell Street, Archer Street, were built about 1850. The first two +houses built in Portobello Road stood for many years unfinished and were +called “_The Folly_.” + +The house now occupied by the London Photographic Co’s studio at the +corner of Norfolk Terrace was built in the middle of a field, and for +some time seemed likely also to be called _The Folly_, and certainly in +its solitary position it looked for some time very foolish, but the +builders knew what was likely to follow better than those who were not in +the secret. + +But even they could not have thought that the quiet Westbourne Grove of +their day would ever become the busy place it is now with its +enterprizing men of business and its crowded thoroughfares. + + + +CHURCHES + + +In Paddington 38 years ago were very few. There was the old church on +Paddington Green, and no other except the chapel in St. Petersburgh +Place, the minister, the Rev. Mr. Smalley, was rightly highly esteemed; +his curate, Rev. Mr. Buckmaster, and the Scripture reader, Mr. Leask, +were also powers for good in their day. + +How well this church has been honoured by the late lamented Archdeacon +Hunter his large congregation will long remember. It seems sad that he +should not have lived to see the new church which he commenced completed, +but the Great Disposer of all events knew best, and he worships now in a +better sanctuary. + +Kensington had its parish church, St. Mary Abbot’s, and a chapel in +Addison Road. At the former was a man beloved by all who knew him, the +Venerable Archdeacon Sinclair, a man whose memory will be still dear to +some old inhabitants of Kensington. + +In Hornton Street, Kensington, was the chapel formerly under the +pastorate of Dr. Vaughan, and here the Queen’s mother often listened to +the Gospel. + +The Wesleyans had their chapel behind the High Street, and the Baptists +in Silver Street Kensington Gravel Pits. This church now worships as +Westbourne Grove Chapel. + +Old Silver Street chapel would hold about 200 people, it had one gallery +in front of the pulpit, and behind the pulpit sliding doors opened on to +the Sunday School Room. On great occasions the minister could have a +congregation both in front and behind him. This however did not often +happen. + +In 1844 the minister was Rev. F. Wills, and the Deacons Messrs. Saunders, +Farmer, Worger and Wood. All these honoured brethren “have ceased from +their labours.” + +Nonconformity was not allowed much room in Paddington, the land there +mainly belonged to the Bishop and the friends of the Established church. + +The Baptists had a chapel in Praed Street, from which has sprung the +Westbourne Park Chapel under the pastorate of Rev. J. Clifford. The +Wesleyans had a chapel in Queen’s Road since rebuilt. + +In 1844 In 1882. +Paddington had 2 churches 18. +,, ,, 2 Nonconformist Chapels 17. +Kensington had 2 churches 23. +,, ,, 3 Nonconformist chapels 24. + +All honour to the men and women who have been instrumental not only in +erecting buildings but in maintaining the great and important work +connected with these places of worship. + +The churches and the country look to the young to follow in the steps of +those who through good report and evil have worked on for the promotion +of Christ’s kingdom and the welfare of their neighbours. + +The past generation have done much. Let every Christian see to it not +only to hold the ground acquired, but to use all their influence to do +even more than those who have gone before. + +I conclude with the desire that one more used to literary composition had +written the facts. I hope all discrepancies will be overlooked and that +it may not be uninteresting to read + + The Remembrances of + + AN OLD INHABITANT. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KENSINGTON, NOTTING HILL, AND +PADDINGTON*** + + +******* This file should be named 43203-0.txt or 43203-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/3/2/0/43203 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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