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diff --git a/43075-0.txt b/43075-0.txt index 65c5dd9..5380d66 100644 --- a/43075-0.txt +++ b/43075-0.txt @@ -1,35 +1,4 @@ -Project Gutenberg's A Civil Servant in Burma, by Herbert Thirkel White - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Civil Servant in Burma - -Author: Herbert Thirkel White - -Release Date: July 1, 2013 [EBook #43075] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA *** - - - - -Produced by Jane Robins, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - Transcriber's Note: - - Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as - possible, including some inconsistent hyphenation and accents. The - erratum noted after the list of illustrations has been fixed. Some - other changes have been made. They are listed at the end of the - text. - - The sentence concerning the penalty for wrongly dividing a word at - the end of a line has been separated from the surrounding paragraph - to prevent re-wrapping. - - The sequence "[)y]" is y-combining-breve. - - Italic text has been marked with _underscores_. - - - - -A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA - - - - -[Illustration: BUDDHA'S FOOT.] - - - - - A CIVIL SERVANT - IN BURMA - - BY - SIR HERBERT THIRKELL WHITE, K.C.I.E. - - WITH ILLUSTRATIONS - - LONDON - EDWARD ARNOLD - 1913 - (_All rights reserved_) - - - - - TO - MY WIFE - WHO SHARED - MY LIFE IN BURMA - FOR MORE THAN THIRTY-TWO YEARS - - - - -PREFACE - - -This is not a guide-book, or a history, or a study of manners and -customs. It is a plain story of official life for more than thirty -years. It does not compete with any of the books already written about -Burma, except, perhaps, the monumental work of General Fytche. While -pursuing as a rule a track of chronological order, I have not hesitated -to wander into by-paths of dissertation and description. I could not -write without attempting to give fragmentary impressions of the people -and their character. As far as possible I have limited my narrative -to events within my own knowledge; my judgments are based on my own -observation. - -I have to express my acknowledgments to the friends who have given me -photographs to illustrate the book. My special thanks are due to Mr. -A. Leeds, I.C.S. (retired), for a large number of characteristic and -charming pictures. - - H. T. W. - -_September, 1913._ - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. INTRODUCTORY: A RETROSPECT AND SOME COMPARISONS 1 - - II. EARLY YEARS AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS 16 - - III. THE FIRST SUBDIVISION: THE SECRETARIAT 36 - - IV. SOME ASPECTS OF BURMESE LIFE AND CHARACTER 55 - - V. ON THE FRONTIER 73 - - VI. THE SECRETARIAT: THE LAST SUBDIVISION 90 - - VII. THE TAKING OF MANDALAY 99 - - VIII. EARLY DAYS AT MANDALAY 114 - - IX. LORD DUFFERIN'S VISIT--MANDALAY ONCE MORE 137 - - X. THE FIRST YEAR AFTER THE ANNEXATION 154 - - XI. A FEW WORDS ON BUDDHISM 183 - - XII. UNDER SIR CHARLES CROSTHWAITE, 1887-1890 201 - - XIII. A VISIT TO THE SHAN STATES 225 - - XIV. RANGOON--MANDALAY 235 - - XV. LOWER BURMA ONCE MORE 256 - - XVI. MANDALAY: THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION 266 - - XVII. THE CHIEF COURT--LAST YEARS IN BURMA 285 - - GLOSSARY 307 - - INDEX 309 - - - - -NOTE - - -Burmese words are spelt according to the Government system of -transliteration. Consonants have the same power as in English. _Y_ -after _g_ combines to form a sound approximating to _j_: _gyi_ = "jee"; -after every other consonant it is short--_m[)y]o_. _Yw_ is pronounced -"yu." Vowels and diphthongs have the sounds given below: - - _a_ = _a_ in "Ma." - _e_ = _a_ in "bane." - _è_ = _e_ in French "père," without any sound of _r_ following. - _i_ = _ee_ in "feet." - _o_ or _ô_ = _o_ in "bone." - _u_ = _oo_ in "fool." - _au_ = _ow_ in "cow." - _ai_ = _i_ in "line." - _ei_ = _ei_ in "vein." - _aw_ = _aw_ in "law." - -Every letter, except _y_ after _g_, is sounded separately, including -final vowels. Thus, _lu-gale_ is pronounced "loo-ga-lay." These -instructions are crude and unscientific, and may excite the derision of -purists. They will enable anyone to pronounce Burmese words with some -approach to correctness. In the case of Shan names I have as a rule -adopted the Burmese forms rather than the Shan forms in official use, -which no one who does not know the language can pretend to pronounce -properly. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - BUDDHA'S FOOT (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - BURMESE HOUSES (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 48 - - CHIN-LON (_Photograph by E. G. N. Kinch_) 58 - - THE POTTER (_Photograph by E. G. N. Kinch_) 64 - - THE M[)Y]O-ÔK-GADAW (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 64 - - SNAKE PAGODA (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 70 - - BURMESE GIRL WORSHIPPING (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 70 - - WHEN THE FLOODS ARE OUT (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 84 - - THE CITY WALL, MANDALAY (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 120 - - ROW OF BUDDHAS (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 128 - - RELEASING TURTLE (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 128 - - A BURMESE FAMILY (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 162 - - THE SAWBWA OF THIBAW (_Photograph by London - Stereoscopic Company_) 174 - - MONASTERY WITH CARVING (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 184 - - THE THATHA-NA-BAING (_Photograph by Watts and Skeen, Rangoon_) 190 - - A MONASTERY (_Photograph by E. G. N. Kinch_) 200 - - PAGODA AT MONE (_Photograph by Sir J. G. Scott, K.C.I.E._) 226 - - THE PAUNGDAWU FESTIVAL (_Photograph by Sir J. G. Scott, - K.C.I.E._) 232 - - BO CHO AND HIS SONS 260 - - - - -ERRATUM. - - -Page 12, footnote *, _for_ "Admiral," _read_ "General," and _delete_ -"naval." - - - - -A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA - - - - -CHAPTER I - -INTRODUCTORY: A RETROSPECT AND SOME COMPARISONS - - -Burma is a Province of the Indian Empire. It is not, as some suppose, -a Crown Colony administered directly under the Colonial Office. Nor -is it, as others do vainly talk, a foreign State where Britain is -represented by Consuls. It is the largest, yet the least populous, -of Indian Provinces, more extensive even than undivided Bengal. The -estimated area is over two hundred and thirty thousand square miles, -larger than either France or Germany. According to the last census -(1911), the population is about twelve millions. On the west, its -seaboard washed by the Bay of Bengal, Burma marches with Bengal, Assam, -and Manipur; on the east, with China, French Indo-China, and Siam. To -the north, it stretches, through tracts unadministered and unexplored, -to the confines of Tibet. The mass of the people are Burmans, a Mongol -race akin to Chinese and Siamese. Other races in Burma are Talaings, -scattered over the Irrawaddy Delta and the Tenasserim division; -Shans, who occupy the great plateau on the east and are also found -in the northern districts; Karens, whose home is Karenni, but who are -widely spread over Lower Burma; Kachins, people of the hills on the -north-east; and Chins, of many clans, inhabiting the hill-country on -the north-west border. - -From the middle of the eighteenth century Burma was ruled by the -dynasty of Alaungpaya, corruptly called Alompra. Alaungpaya seems to -have been a Dacoit chief who began his career at Shwebo,[1] and made -himself master of the whole country. In his time the Burmese were a -warlike people, withstanding the might of China, and carrying their -victorious standards into Siam. Ten Princes[2] of his House ruled over -the whole, or part, of his kingdom. In 1826, after the First Burmese -War, the Provinces of Tenasserim and Arakan were annexed by the East -India Company, the central block from the sea to Tibet remaining under -the Burmese King. In 1852 the Province of Pegu was conquered. In 1862 -Pegu, Tenasserim, and Arakan were combined to form the Province of -British Burma, and placed in charge of a Chief Commissioner directly -responsible to the Government of India. In 1885 occurred the Third -Burmese War. Early in 1886, Upper Burma, all that remained under -native rule, was incorporated in the British Empire. Burma continued -to be administered by a Chief Commissioner till 1897, when the first -Lieutenant-Governor was appointed. - -These elementary facts are recorded for the benefit of any who may be -thankful for geographical and historical information about distant -dependencies of the Crown. We all know the story of Cape Breton. Most -of us have met people who think that our connection with Burma began -in 1885; that Burma regiments are manned by Burman sepoys; that, to -cite an alien instance, Bengalis serve in the Indian Army. Even what -was long regarded as the mythical confusion of Burma with Bermuda was -seriously printed in a London weekly last year, and all the newspapers -told how an officer who entered the Army in 1886 served in the _Second_ -Burmese War. Errors like these justify the platitudes of the preceding -paragraphs. - -When I first became acquainted with Burma, the system of administration -was comparatively simple. The Province consisted of three divisions, -each under a Commissioner. Subordinate to the Commissioner were -Deputy Commissioners, each in charge of a district. Under the -Deputy-Commissioner were subdivisional and township officers, in -charge respectively of subdivisions and townships. These jurisdictions -still remain. In those distant days townships were further divided -into circles, the territorial unit of administration, constituted -primarily for revenue purposes. Each circle was in charge of a Taik -Thugyi,[3] a native official of position and dignity and often of -considerable wealth. The Taik Thugyi collected capitation tax and -land and fishery revenue, the main sources of the Provincial income, -and received a substantial commission on the returns. Except as a -tax-collector, he had no statutory powers. But he was the chief man in -his circle, and, if of strong character, exercised great influence. -Every village had its headman, called the Kye-dan-gyi,[4] with onerous -duties and incommensurate powers and emoluments. In recent years -circle and village organization has been reformed. Taik Thugyis have -been abolished or are in course of abolition. The village is now -the administrative unit. The Ywa Thugyi[5] is the local judge and -magistrate, with extensive powers and a respectable position. - -Except of purely Imperial offices, such as Post and Telegraphs, the -Commissioner was the head of all Departments in the division. As -Sessions Judge he was also the chief judicial officer. In like manner -the Deputy Commissioner controlled every branch of the administration -in his district. The bulk of petty revenue, criminal, and civil work -was done by Assistant Commissioners, Extra Assistant Commissioners,[6] -and M[)y]o-ôks,[7] in charge of subdivisions and townships. Most of the -Extra Assistants and all the M[)y]o-ôks were natives of Burma. I think it -is true that early in 1878 no Burmese officer exercised higher powers -than those of a third-class magistrate, and not one was in charge of a -subdivision. - -The judicial administration was controlled by a Judicial Commissioner, -who was the High Court for the whole country except Rangoon, and who -was always deputed from another Province. When I joined, the late Mr. -J. D. Sandford was Judicial Commissioner. In Rangoon the reins of -justice were in the strong hands of the Recorder (the late Mr. C. J. -Wilkinson). The Judicial Commissioner and the Recorder sat together in -a quaint tribunal called the Special Court, which heard appeals from -the decisions of each of its members. When the Judges of the Special -Court failed to agree, a difficult position occurred. The High Court at -Calcutta exercised anomalous jurisdiction in certain cases. Except the -Judicial Commissioner, the Recorder, the Judge of Moulmein, and a Small -Cause Court Judge or two, there were no officers occupied exclusively -with judicial work. All exercised judicial and executive functions. -Divisional, Sessions, District, Subdivisional, and Township Judges, who -now flourish in luxuriant abundance, were not even in the bud. - -The rank and file of the police were mostly Burmans, with some -admixture of Indians not of a very good class. The superior officers, -District and Assistant Superintendents, were men of experience, well -acquainted with the people. A few military officers still remained -in the civil police, Major T. Lowndes[8] being Inspector-General. -Perhaps the best-known of the British officers were Messrs. Perreau, -Fforde, Jameson, and Dixon, and Major C. A. Munro. The Burmese -officers--inspectors and head constables--were all men who had risen -from the ranks. Every one of them had to enlist as a constable and work -his way upward. The system was not without merit, and was well suited -to the idiosyncrasy of the Burmese race. One distinguished Talaing -officer held the rank of Superintendent of Police, though without a -district charge. This was Maung Shwe Kyi, who was a King on the Siamese -border at Kawkareik. One of the bravest and most resolute of men, his -good service was recognized by his inclusion in the first list of -Companions of the Order of the Indian Empire. His son carries on the -tradition of his family. - -The Forest Department was in its early lusty youth vigorously directed -by a single Conservator, Mr. B. Ribbentrop,[9] assisted by a small -but very able staff. Burmese teak had long been a staple product of -great value; its care and development were the main duties of forest -officers. The forest law was, and still remains, complex, logical, -meticulous. I venture the humble suggestion that its exceeding -obscurity may be due to the nationality of the pioneers of forest -administration in India. We were taught forestry by Germans of great -ability and high scientific attainments, who framed the statutes of -their department as if they were metaphysical treatises. They created -a great and efficient branch of the administration. But they enveloped -its principles in a mist which baffles the ordinary lay intelligence, -and can be pierced only by the philosophic mind, made, or at least -trained, in Germany. - -Supreme over all was the Chief Commissioner (then Mr. Rivers -Thompson[10]), assisted by a small but capable secretariat, which -worked for long hours in a small office on the Strand Road in Rangoon. -The Secretary, Major C. W. Street, was a military civilian of character -and ability. The Junior Secretary was Mr. R. H. Pilcher, C.S., who -had been Assistant Resident in Mandalay, and was most learned in -the Burmese and Shan tongues. My old friend, Mr. G. C. Kynoch, was -Assistant Secretary. None of these survives. - -The higher officers entrusted with the general administration, as -distinct from special branches, constituted the Commission. In the -Commission were included the Chief Commissioner, Judicial Commissioner, -Commissioners, Deputy Commissioners, and Assistant Commissioners. It -was composed of Indian civilians, officers of the Indian Staff Corps, -and uncovenanted[11] officers. Civilians were few in number. Burma -was not considered of sufficient importance to have men assigned to -it after the open competitions. Men were sent thither for their sins, -either permanently or for a term of years. A Chief Commissioner's wife -is said to have told one of these young men that other Provinces sent -their worst men to Burma. However this may be, no doubt Burma was -regarded as a place of banishment, a dismal rice-swamp (or, as was -once said, a howling paddy[12]-plain), where the sun never shone. I -remember, while still in London, the commiseration expressed with one -of our seniors whose deportation to this dreary land was announced. -All this was fiction, falser than the Roman's conception of Britain. -I found Burma a bright and pleasant land, green and forest-clad, with -a climate healthier on the whole than the average climate of Indian -plains; its people singularly human, cheerful, and sympathetic; its -officers of all ranks companionable and friendly. My own considered -opinion is that, in many respects, Burma was one of the best provinces -for a public servant. It is true that, at first, with only British -or Lower Burma open to us, with but little variety of climate, we -were rather cribbed and confined. The rains, lasting from May to -October, began to pall about the middle of August. Fungus growth on -boots was displeasing. The Province was (it still is) expensive, and -promotion was slow. It took Sir Harvey Adamson and myself, who were -contemporaries, over seven years to get a step of substantive rank. -But there were compensations in the lightness of the work (except in -the Secretariat), in the charm and attractiveness of the people, in -the excellent good-fellowship of our brother-officers, in the hope -that before long we should be in Mandalay, and that united Burma would -give ample scope and opportunity. Burmese cheroots, too, cost only -eightpence a hundred. - -Among the military civilians were men of conspicuous ability, trained -in the school of Sir Arthur Phayre, whose name is still reverenced -throughout Burma, and who stands in the first class of Indian statesmen -and administrators. Many of them had taken an active part in the -pacification of Pegu after the Second War, and were thoroughly familiar -with the Province and its people, their language and customs. I yield -to none in high appreciation of the men of my own Service. They have -done as good work in Burma, and have got as near to the people, as -any men in India. But military civilians also have maintained to this -day an honourable record, and have furnished to the Commission many -valuable officers. I was just too late to know Colonel David Brown -(Brown-gyi[13]), whose memory still lives in the Province. Colonel -Horace Browne,[14] Colonel A. G. Duff, Captain C. H. E. Adamson,[15] -Colonel W. C. Plant, are among the notable soldier-civilians of my -early service. Other officers, afterwards well-known, were Mr. de -Courcy Ireland, the first officer of his Service in India to become a -commissioner; Mr. A. H. Hildebrand,[16] the first Superintendent of the -Shan States; and Johnny Davis, of Papun, whose knowledge of Burma and -the Burmese was unique. When I joined, all the divisions were in charge -of military officers, and with one or two exceptions, military and -uncovenanted officers ruled every district. - -In 1878 there was one line of railway, 160 miles in length, from -Rangoon to Prome on the Irrawaddy. To and from Toungoo, a station on -the Burmese frontier, the journey had to be made by way of the Sittang -River, and occupied about a fortnight. Once upon a time, a man started -from Toungoo with a friend. They travelled in separate boats, in one of -which was stored all the provisions for the voyage. The commissariat -boat started first, and my man never saw his friend again till he -reached Rangoon. For a fortnight he had to subsist on such scanty fare -as he could pick up on the river-bank. When I saw him soon afterwards, -he was perceptibly thinner and still full of wrath. Toungoo is now on -the Mandalay line, and is reached in a few hours. There are 1,529 miles -of railways in Burma; lines to Mandalay, to Myit-kyi-na in the extreme -north, to Alôn on the Chindwin, to Moulmein, one of our ports, to -Lashio in the Northern Shan States, in mid-air on the way to China, to -Bassein and Henzada in the Delta. The sea-borne trade has made immense -progress. In 1878 it was valued at £15,684,920; in 1911 at nearly -£43,000,000. - -The garrison consisted of two battalions of British infantry, one of -which gave a detachment to the Andamans, five Madras regiments, and -five batteries of artillery. Troops were stationed at Rangoon, on the -frontier at Toungoo and Thayet-myo, and at Moulmein. There were no -troops in Arakan. There were no military police. The Province was in a -state of profound peace, though there were occasional dacoities on the -borders, and, as always, Tharrawaddy had a bad name. - -Of Rangoon in those early days, separate mention may be made. One -glory it had which still abides. The Shwe Dagôn Pagoda, most sacred -and most illustrious of pure Buddhist shrines, dominating the -landscape, rose golden to the sky. From far the traveller approaching -Rangoon from the sea caught sight of that amazing shaft of gold, and -instinctively did reverence. In the bright winter sunshine, in the blue -haze of summer heat, in the veiled mysteries of tropic moonlight, it -towered awe-inspiring, stupendous, divine. On feast days and sabbaths -the platform was thronged with worshippers, surely the brightest, -best-humoured, most laughter-loving of all pious crowds. Even now one -can imagine no scene more gracious, more mystically serene and lovely, -than the pagoda in the light of the full moon, when all that is tawdry -and unseemly is charmed away. But thirty years ago, before the platform -was covered with modern shrines not all in harmony with æsthetic -canons, it was still more gravely and austerely beautiful. - -In recent years the erection of new buildings on the pagoda platform, -already overcrowded, has been forbidden. This probably is wise and -right. Being in the centre of a fort, with an arsenal in close -proximity, the pagoda is in military custody. The presence of the -arsenal is a menace to the safety of this famous shrine. A serious -explosion would shatter the fabric and irreparably destroy one of the -wonders of the world. The pagoda would be the natural place of refuge -in time of serious disturbance. For this reason, among others, the -continuance of military control is essential. But the removal of the -arsenal to a distance is an urgent necessity. - -After its occupation in 1852, Rangoon was carefully laid out on a -systematic plan, with straight streets of varying width. The broadest -road, edged with shady trees, ran from Soolay Pagoda up to the -cantonment, as fine a thoroughfare as could be seen in East or West. -In the early fifties some far-seeing benefactor planted along Godwin -Road[17] a glorious avenue of padauk, and earned the blessings of men -later born. Three times, at the approach of the rains, these stately -trees burst forth for a day in petals as beautiful and as fleeting -as fairy gold. Then one drives under a canopy of gold, over a golden -carpet of fallen flowers, amidst a crowd each bearing a golden blossom. -To see this lovely sight you must live in Burma. It comes too late in -the season for the casual visitor. - -The main lines of the plan of Rangoon have been preserved, and are as -at first designed. But the past thirty years have seen many changes. -In 1878, though there were many strangers within its borders, Rangoon -was still a Burmese town. Now it is the third port in the Indian -Empire,[18] a vast city of over a quarter of a million of people, -speaking a pentecostal variety of tongues, among whom Burmans are a -dwindling minority. Then the cantonment, no doubt of needlessly vast -extent, occupying a wide space on every side of the pagoda, was like a -picturesque park, studded with little wooden houses, each surrounded -by an ample shady garden. Halpin Road, by some sentimentalists called -the Ladies' Mile, with a humble but select gymkhana[19] at one end, -was restricted to the use of the military and civil community. Now the -gymkhana has been quadrupled in size, and far more than quadrupled in -membership. Jehus of all races and classes raise the dust of Halpin -Road in dogcarts, landaus, and motor-cars. A great modern hotel -occupies a large space; houses of a decadent type, planted as close -together as suburban villas, have devastated the pretty cantonment; -natives of wealth and position live on sites once reserved for the -sovereign race. Doubtless all these are signs of progress. But they -shock the æsthetic sense. The Pegu Club was housed in Cheape Road, -in a wooden building not long ago dismantled. On the Royal Lake a -few boats afforded exercise and pastime. If your boat upset, you -were fined for illegal bathing; and if you scrambled back into your -boat, you were fined for embarking elsewhere than at the prescribed -jetty. Dalhousie Park, it may be gratefully admitted, has been much -improved, mainly by the devoted attention of the late Mr. John Short. -It is now beyond imagination the home of the picturesque, its lovely -lawns and winding paths fringing the lake, with the pagoda shining -in the middle distance. Except a few public offices, there were no -buildings of importance. Government House was of wood, with a small -masonry annexe, near the present imposing and luxurious, but hardly -beautiful structure. A neighbouring house was used as a guest-house, -to accommodate the overflow of visitors, till some years later it was -sold by a frugal Chief. The General Hospital, of wood saturated with -generations of microbes, was then, and for long after, a disgrace to -civilization. It has now been replaced by a magnificent pile, the -best-equipped hospital in the East, one of the best-equipped in the -world. The race-course, round the parade ground, was about two-thirds -of its present size. The little race-meetings twice a year, where one -knew all the ponies and riders, when lotteries were of small value -and attended by one's friends and acquaintances, when bookmakers -were unknown, and we did our mild gambling at the totalizator, were -more enjoyable and more truly sporting than the present-day monthly -meetings, where more than half the owners are Chinamen or Indians, -and almost all the riders professional jockeys. In wealth, in luxury, -in comfort, Rangoon has made great advances in the last thirty years. -Yet I doubt if it is quite as pleasant a place of abode as it was a -generation ago. - -The outskirts of Rangoon were rustic or, as we say, jungly. About this -time a tiger swam across the river from Dalla, then a mere village, -and was shot by Mr. G. G. Collins, an Inspector of Police,[20] under -a house in Godwin Road. Within the last ten years a similar incident -occurred. One morning an old woman, selling cheroots on the pagoda -platform, half asleep or half blind, opened her eyes, and saw in the -dim dawn moving near her stall what she took to be a large cat. She -waved it away, and it went off. It was a tiger which had strolled up -the grassy slope of the Pagoda Hill. The pagoda was being regilt, and -was encased in lattice-work. The tiger climbed half-way up the trellis -and there stopped, till, after some ineffectual attempts, it was shot -by an officer of the garrison. This strange event has an explanation. A -nat[21] came riding on the tiger to inspect the gilding of the pagoda. -He rode half-way up and then dismounted, pursuing his journey on foot. -On his return, he was much surprised and displeased to find that his -steed had been killed. Some say that he was unable to resume his -journey, and is still there. This story was current in Rangoon on the -evening of the occurrence. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -EARLY YEARS AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS - - -My personal acquaintance with Burma dates from January, 1878. I came -to India as a Bengal civilian, attached to the Upper Provinces, liable -to serve in the North-West Provinces, the Punjab and Oudh. It was -doubtless for that reason and because I had shown some aptitude for the -study of Persian that the Government of India were pleased to post me -to the Central Provinces, and then, before I had even joined at Nagpúr, -to order me to Burma. As in those days our covenants did not bind us to -serve elsewhere than in the Province of our choice, I think it likely -that, after a term in Burma, I might have obtained a transfer to the -North-West Provinces. However, I went to Burma and stayed there; and so -far as my official career is concerned, I do not suppose I should have -done as well in any other part of India. Certainly I should not have -had elsewhere so interesting a life, or found so congenial a people. - -On our arrival in Rangoon, my wife and I were hospitably received by -two residents, Mr. E. C. Morrieson, a man of my own year, and Mr. C. -F. Egerton Allen, then Government Advocate, afterwards acting Recorder -of Rangoon, and still later in the House as member for Pembroke -Boroughs. Their kindness was in accordance with the traditions of the -country, which, I am glad to say, are still maintained. A comparatively -new Province, in some respects it may be a little behind the times, -Burma has always cherished the primitive virtues, conspicuously that -of hospitality. Perhaps to some extent this is ascribable to the -influence of the _genius loci_. For in the world there are no kinder or -more hospitable people than the Burmese. The generous manner in which -strangers are received may be one reason why hotels in Burma have, if -possible, a worse repute than those of India.[22] - -Our first station was Bassein, one of the four ports of Burma, situated -on a fair river some sixty miles from the sea, in the midst of the -Delta of the Irrawaddy. It was then the headquarters of a district. -Not very long afterwards it became the headquarters of the Irrawaddy -division, carved out of the overworked division of Pegu. In those days -the only approach to Bassein was by river steamer. Even now, though -Bassein is linked with Rangoon by rail, the river journey is easier -and pleasanter. Our little vessel steamed now on the broad flood of -the main river, now through narrow winding channels, called locally -"creeks," which intersect the delta in countless profusion. Though -searchlights in the bows were then unknown, we ran on, by day and -night, between densely wooded banks. Now and again the passage was -so narrow that branches of trees crashed through our cabin window. -Here and there, on the mud of a bank left bare by the tide, we saw -crocodiles and bands of chattering monkeys. Except at the large -villages, where we halted to take up and set down passengers and cargo, -the solitude was perfect save for a few huts on the riverside, a casual -fisherman in his dugout, a boat full of men and women going to market, -or of monks (pôngyis) in their yellow robes. The hideous sampan and the -still more horrible lighter or barge had not yet invaded these sacred -recesses. Such larger craft as passed us were the stately Burmese -boats, built on graceful lines, propelled by sail and oar, with high -carved sterns on which the helmsman sat aloft. Such people as we saw -were all Burmans or Karens. The kala[23] was as rare as a black swan. - -My Deputy Commissioner was Mr. G. D. Burgess,[24] one of the first -civilians deputed to Burma, of the same year as the late Sir Denzil -Ibbetson, of lamented memory. Mr. C. U. Aitchison,[25] who succeeded -Mr. Rivers Thompson as Chief Commissioner early in 1878, visited -Bassein this year in the course of a tour in the old Government -steamer, the _Irrawaddy_. Recognizing Mr. Burgess's rare ability, he -called him to Rangoon soon afterwards to act as secretary in place -of Major Street, who went on leave. This was exceptional promotion -for a man of about eight years' service. Mr. Burgess was a man of -great capacity, of untiring industry, of immense power of work, of -exceptional mastery of detail, of singularly sane judgment, one whose -opinion, as Mr. Aitchison said, was always worthy of consideration. For -several years he worked in the secretariat, afterwards did excellent -service as Commissioner at Mandalay and elsewhere, and in due course -became Judicial Commissioner of Upper Burma. In that high office he -had full scope for his industry and sound judgment. His rulings, -especially on points of Buddhist law, illuminated many dark places, and -are still cited with respect. Mr. Burgess's health was undermined by -excessive work in the secretariat. In 1898 he had to take leave, and, -by a melancholy accident, died at sea on his way home. He was one of -the ablest officers who ever served in Burma, and, if his health had -not failed, must have risen to the highest posts. If he had a fault -officially, it was a tendency to interfere too much in detail and to do -the work of his subordinates. No doubt, as Mr. Aitchison used to say, -and as others have often said, the great administrator is he who does -his own duty and sees that those under him do theirs. But the defect I -have ventured to note is the defect of a generous quality. - -In those days the education of junior civilians was left to take care -of itself. There was no Land Records Department and there were no -elaborate circulars prescribing a course of training. What sort of -training a junior officer enjoyed, or whether he had any training at -all, depended entirely on the quality of his first Deputy Commissioner. -I need hardly say that I regard as preferable the present system, -under which every young officer is passed through a definite course -of practical instruction in all branches of his work. But even now -a great deal depends on the personality of the Deputy Commissioner. -It was my good fortune to begin my service under the guidance of an -excellent officer and a high-minded, great-hearted gentleman. Never -had green griffin a kindlier or abler mentor. And to the end of his -life Mr. Burgess treated me with the kindness of an elder brother. I -was placed in charge of the Treasury; given Third Class magisterial -powers, that is, power to imprison for one month, fine up to fifty -rupees, and, such was the barbaric darkness of that age, to whip; and -set to try petty criminal cases, learn Burmese, and prepare for the -departmental examinations. I confess that I had a charmingly idle time. -In those happy days life was not in the least strenuous. The busiest -time was when the head accountant went sick for about a month, and I -had to do his work as well as my own. In this way I did thoroughly -learn the Treasury system, even if I forgot it afterwards. The zeal -of youth betrayed me into a somewhat serious blunder, whereby I -incurred the formal censure of Government. This, though recorded, was -never officially communicated to me, and does not seem to have done -me any harm. I cannot call to mind anything amusing or interesting -in the court or office work. If there are tales, others must tell -them. It was not in Bassein that a Third Class Magistrate sentenced a -cattle-thief to imprisonment for one week, the normal sentence then, -and, I hope, now being one of two years' hard labour. Called upon for -justification, he gravely explained that he had to observe some measure -in his sentences. If he gave a man a whole month for cattle-theft, what -sentence could he pass if he convicted a man of murder? Nor was it here -that a young magistrate fined a woman Rs. 10, or in default rigorous -imprisonment for two years. It was elsewhere that an officer fined his -own servant judicially for "spoiling the Court's soup" by using an oily -cloth to wipe the plates withal. These stories, current in Burma long -ago, are possibly all invented. Similarly mythical, I suspect, are -the legends of the young civilian who gratefully accepted advice not -to try a long shot, lest he should strain the gun; of another who on -the voyage out kept under his pillow a revolver wrapped in paper and -labelled "Dangerous"; of a third who was persuaded to rise at mess, -as the representative of Government, and forestall the President in -announcing the toast of "The Queen." But many years later, with my own -ears, I heard the health of Her Majesty proposed, "coupled with the -name of General ----," and the gallant General respond on behalf of his -Sovereign. - -Bassein was a charming station, with that mingling of non-official -and official society which doth ever add pleasure. The great rice -firms, Messrs. Bulloch Bros., Messrs. Strang Steel and Co., Messrs. -Mohr Bros., and others, had mills on either side of the river, and the -presence of their representatives helped to form a festive and sociable -community. We were all young and all cheerful. Though there was no -club, we managed to meet and enjoy life. Besides an inchoate attempt -at polo, then just coming into vogue, riding in the fields and jungle, -and playing lawn tennis, were the principal amusements. Golf had not -been introduced. I am afraid ladies had rather a quiet time, for dances -were of very rare occurrence. But bachelor frolics were many, and the -spectacled Deputy Commissioner who looked grave enough on the Bench was -leader in every frivolity. His Saturday night whist dinners were often -more hilarious than the occasion indicates. I refrain from recording -instances of light-hearted jests perpetrated from time to time, partly -because they were too trivial for immortality, partly lest the serious -reader think us more childish-foolish than we were. The survivors of -those joyous days will call to mind many a noisy revel. No harm was -done. Mr. Kipling would have found no copy for the mildest of plain -tales. - -There were reminders of historic times. One of the Public Works -officers was a veteran who had fought at Chillianwallah. Another -resident had learnt his work under Brunel. Less pleasing relics of -the past were a few old men branded on the forehead and sent into -transportation from India. Some, but not all, were mutineers. They were -not in confinement, but eked out a wretched existence on two or three -pence a day. - -I saw something of district life. More than once the Deputy Commissioner -took me on tour with him, and I had opportunities of learning methods of -sound administration. The Deputy Commissioner was the head of the -district, and, as already stated, controlled all except the purely -Imperial departments. Even over Forests, Public Works, and Education -he exercised paternal sway. He was explicitly declared to be the head -of the police. And he was the chief executive officer, with as much -influence as his personality secured. He cherished his own District -Fund, his pet child, and had a fair amount of money to spend on minor -works. Often he was his own road-maker. As District Magistrate, with -power to try all but capital offences and impose substantial penalties, -and as District Judge, with unlimited original civil jurisdiction and -wide appellate powers, he directed the judicial administration. - -He constantly travelled slowly through the district, and was personally -known to all the people. In most districts the volume of work was not -beyond the capacity of an able and energetic officer. We in Bassein -were fortunate in possessing the ablest Deputy Commissioner in the -Province, and the district flourished under his benign and firm -rule. It was an invaluable object-lesson to accompany Mr. Burgess -on tour and mark his procedure. Always accessible to the humblest -villager, yet strict in upholding the authority of his subordinates, -Myo-ôks and Thugyis; halting here and there to investigate disputes -in revenue matters, to hear complaints, to try cases; treating the -local officials with kindness and consideration, while preserving his -place and dignity; inspecting village records; checking capitation tax -returns and land revenue rolls; visiting fields on which remission of -revenue was claimed; taking a day off now and then to shoot snipe; the -Deputy Commissioner's progress tended to the happiness of the people -and the peace of the countryside. I have no doubt that this was the -best system of administration ever devised or practised. The separation -of judicial and executive functions, the curtailment of the Deputy -Commissioner's powers, the attempt, happily so far not successful in -Burma, to diminish his authority over the police and his responsibility -for peace and order, are all steps backward; to vary the metaphor, -they are solvents which will gradually destroy the vitality of the -administration and weaken the foundations of good government laid -by our predecessors. I have no right to speak of other provinces of -India. In Burma there is a comparatively simple social organization. -With a strong feeling of personal independence and a full measure of -self-respect, the people looked up to the officials and recognized -that they were better off under authority than if they attempted to -govern themselves. Above all, they knew that in the last resort they -could rely on the justice and firmness of British officers. Under this -system the moral and material welfare of the peasant and trader was -promoted far more surely than by the introduction of Western methods -unsuited to the idiosyncrasy of the race. Nor does this proposition -preclude Burmans from obtaining by degrees an ever-increasing share in -the offices of the administration. As qualified men become available, -by all means let them undertake higher duties. But do not let us try -prematurely to impose representative institutions on people who neither -demand nor understand them. Above all, let us avoid the pernicious cant -of thinking that our mission in Burma is the political education of -the masses. Our mission is to conserve, not to destroy, their social -organism; to preserve the best elements of their national life; by the -maintenance of peace and order to advance the well-being of the Burmese -people. - -At Bassein, in town and district, I first saw Burmans at home, and -laid the foundations of many lasting friendships. My first two clerks -were Maung Pe,[26] and Maung Aung Zan. One has long been the respected -Second Judge of the Small Cause Court in Rangoon, the Aristides of -his race; the other is the first Burman District Judge. A well-known -character was U Bya, the Judge of the Bassein Small Cause Court, an -officer of age and dignity, who, it was said, had raised himself to -his honourable rank from the humble position of peon in the Treasury. -Although contact with foreigners had to some extent begun to affect -the Burmese character, it must be remembered that the time of which I -write was only twenty-five years after the taking of Rangoon, a shorter -period than has now elapsed since the occupation of Mandalay. Even -in Pegu the Burman was far less sophisticated than he has become in -recent years. The great rice-plains of the delta were not nearly all -under cultivation. The farmer worked his own moderate holding with the -help of his family and of reapers who came down annually from Upper -Burma. The inroad of coolies and settlers from Madras and Bengal not -yet begun. The delta was sparsely peopled, and everyone was happy and -contented. - -After leaving Bassein, I spent a few weeks in Rangoon as personal -assistant to the Chief Commissioner. The personal assistant combined -the posts of private secretary and aide-de-camp, without the -emoluments, and with only part of the work of those offices. Under -Mr. Aitchison's tolerant régime, the duties were extremely light, and -consisted mainly in ciphering and deciphering telegrams. By him and by -Mrs. (now Lady) Aitchison, we were treated with unvarying kindness. -The days spent as members of their official family are days of happy -memory. Mr. Aitchison was one of the first batch of competition walas, -and was rightly regarded as a distinguished ornament of our service. -At a very early stage in his career he became Foreign Secretary to the -Government of India. That high office he exchanged for the comparative -obscurity of Burma, only because he differed from the Viceroy (Lord -Lytton) on points of frontier policy. He was a man of exceptional -ability, of resolute character, with the most delicate sense of honour, -a chief whom it was a pride and pleasure to serve. The Governor-General -being his own Foreign Minister, Mr. Aitchison had been brought into -close personal relations with every Viceroy[27] who, up to that time, -had held office. In his judgment, among these statesmen, the man -of genius, the one who got most quickly to the root of a difficult -problem, was Lord Lytton. As the two men were by no means sympathetic, -this opinion is of special value. - -We came to Rangoon early in 1879, at a time of great excitement. The -preceding October had seen the death of Mindôn Min, who ruled the -Burmese kingdom for more than five-and-twenty years. King Mindôn, or -Min-taya-gyi Paya, was an enlightened monarch, worthy to be placed -in the same class, though not side by side, with Solomon and Akbar. -He wrested the throne from his incapable brother, Pagan Min, whose -headstrong folly had involved his country in the Second Burmese War. -With rare magnanimity, he neither slew nor blinded the deposed King, -but allowed him to live in peace in his own house for the rest of his -days. Indeed, Pagan Min survived his successor. Mindôn Min was an -able administrator, and quite master of his kingdom. He held in his -own hands all the threads of government, and kept himself informed of -all that happened even in the remotest corners. Peace and order were -reasonably well maintained, and projects for developing the resources -of the country were initiated. The teak forests were opened out by -English firms. Many Europeans, principally French and Italian, were -attracted to his Court, and employed in various capacities. Among other -reforms may be mentioned the levy of regular taxation on land and -incomes, and the payment of salaries to officials. The practice had -been for an official to be placed in charge of a local area, which he -was expressively said to "eat." After paying his dues to Government, -he squeezed as much as possible for himself. In this reign, though the -custom was not abolished, its prevalence was restricted. The King was -a very pious Buddhist, a generous benefactor of the pagoda at Rangoon, -and a steadfast pillar of his religion. He discouraged the taking of -life, the use of opium, the consumption of intoxicating liquors. Like -Solomon in wisdom, he rivalled him in the number of his wives. Although -he declined to make a treaty ceding any part of his dominions to Great -Britain, he respected the frontier-line laid down by Lord Dalhousie, -he kept on good terms with our Government in Lower Burma, and he had -the good sense highly to appreciate Sir Arthur Phayre. So long as he -ruled in Mandalay, there was no likelihood of any expansion of British -territory at his cost. - -The death of Mindôn Min threw the whole of Upper Burma into confusion. -By a palace intrigue, in which the principal actors were Queen -Sinbyumashin and the Taingda Mingyi,[28] the Thebaw Mintha,[29] was -placed on the throne. King Thebaw was about eighteen years of age. He -seems to have been a dull youth, of no character, good or bad. The -beginning of his rule was stained by the murder of most of the sons of -Mindôn Min, a massacre as ruthless and almost as many-headed as the -slaughter of the sons of Ahab. Though the Princesses were not killed, -they were consigned to captivity. Of the massacre of the Princes, two -extreme views have been held. The young King has been represented -as a monster of cruelty, himself personally responsible for this -atrocity. The cynical suggestion is that, in Burma as in other Oriental -countries, it was a measure of ordinary precaution for the King to -remove possible rivals and pretenders; in so doing, Thebaw was no worse -than his predecessors. As a matter of fact, most likely neither the -King nor his much-maligned Queen had much to do with the massacre. It -was, no doubt, the work of his Ministers, chiefly of the blood-stained -Taingda Mingyi, a name to all succeeding ages cursed. But it is also -the case that this wholesale butchery, though not without precedent, -was not in accordance with the practice of Burman Kings, at least, in -recent years. Certainly no such deluge of blood sullied the opening -days of King Mindôn. The probable explanation is that the title of -the new King was felt to be precarious, while his personality did not -compensate the insecurity of his claim. He was not the eldest, nor the -ablest, nor the most popular, of Mindôn Min's sons. For these reasons, -I conjecture, some of the Ministers thought it desirable to remove -potential centres of revolt and disaffection. I cannot believe that my -learned and mild-tempered friend, the Kinwun Mingyi, though nominally -the head of the State Council, approved this savage measure. The -stories current at the time, of the King priming himself with drink, -and personally directing the slaughter, were certainly false. It is -true, however, that in the early days of his reign King Thebaw was much -under the influence of a titular Prince, Maung Tôk,[30] and that these -two boon companions did hold drunken orgies together. After Maung Tôk's -removal there is no record of intemperance in the Palace. - -The massacre of the sons of Mindôn Min sent a thrill of horror through -the civilized world. Our Resident at Mandalay, Mr. R. B. Shaw, entered -vehement protests. He also sheltered two Princes, the Nyaung-yan and -Nyaung-ôk Minthas, who were, I understand, brought to the Residency -by M. d'Avéra, and whose lives were saved by their despatch to Lower -Burma and thence to Calcutta. In Rangoon the Press and public were -loud in condemnation, and clamorous for action. In the interests of -humanity and civilization the Indian Government were urgently pressed -to intervene. They nearly did so. Preparations for the despatch of -troops were begun. One regiment, the 43rd Light Infantry, actually came -over from Madras, in hot haste and with the barest camp kit, and was -sent to the frontier. All its officers expected to be in Mandalay in -a fortnight, and sore was the indignation of the British regiment in -Rangoon that these new-comers should go to the front while it remained -in cantonments. The Rangoon Regiment had its consolation. For all their -term in Burma the 43rd stayed on the frontier, and never put a foot -across it. The Government of India were fully occupied with troubles -in Afghanistan, which some few months later culminated in the murder -of Sir Louis Cavagnari at Cabul. At home, Ministers were staggered by -the disaster of Isandhlwana in February of this year. Both Governments -had their hands too full to find leisure for upholding the cause of -humanity in Upper Burma. It was a very near thing. Had there not been -pressing affairs elsewhere, we should doubtless have occupied Mandalay, -and almost certainly set up a protected King. The time was ripe for -intervention, but not for annexation. - -At Government House we were kept moderately busy by telegrams with -Mandalay and Calcutta. One fine morning the Nyaung-yan Prince appeared, -with the design of attempting (to speak proleptically) a Jameson raid -on Upper Burma. The secret history of this incident I may not tell. -Let it suffice to say that the Prince was sent back to Calcutta with -all speed in a Government ship. To soothe public feeling in Rangoon -a Press _communiqué_ was issued from the Secretariat, informing the -world that in respect of Upper Burma the attitude of the Government of -India was one of "repose and defence," a phrase which was received with -mingled surprise and derision. The explanation I may perhaps disclose -after many years. The telegram of the Government of India authorizing -the announcement was signalled, or at any rate transcribed by me, in -the words given to the Press. But what the Government of India wrote -was that their attitude was one of "reserve and defence." Curiously and -perhaps somewhat ingenuously the Rangoon Volunteer Rifles adopted, and -for many years retained, as their motto the words "Repose and Defence." -Of late they have become more energetic, and this motto has been -discarded as inappropriate. - -Government House maintained the hospitable traditions of the Province. -All the officers of the 43rd were entertained and housed during their -very brief stay in Rangoon, and, though tourists were fewer than in -later years, we had some visitors. Of these the most distinguished -was General Ulysses Grant, ex-President of the United States, who in -his voyage round the world touched at Rangoon. With him came Mrs. -Grant, their son Colonel Grant, a Cabinet Minister, a doctor, and a -man of letters. General Grant seemed to me to talk, in moderation, as -much as other people. I had the honour of being instructed by him in -the mysteries of the constitution of the United States, and even of -discussing with him the possibility of a League of Anglo-Saxon Peoples -to impose peace on the world. He impressed us all as a man of strength, -dignity, and character. The growing port and city of Rangoon interested -him, and he foresaw and foretold its early and rapid increase. May I -tell here a trivial story? At a reception at Government House in honour -of General Grant, whereat all Rangoon was present, one of the highest -officers brought down the house by withdrawing a chair on which the -Commissioner of Pegu was about to sit. As the Commissioner weighed -about twenty stone, he was somewhat seriously annoyed by this frolic, -though not, I am glad to say, hurt. I record the incident, and refrain -from moralizing. - -Though wealth has increased and the standard of living has been raised, -there seems to have been more money to spend in Rangoon in those days. -The great merchants vied with Government House in their entertainments. -One at least left a lasting impression. More than twenty years after -I tried in vain for some time to explain to my old native coachman -where he was to drive. At last my meaning dawned on him. "You want to -go to Leishmann Sahib's house." Now, Leishmann Sahib had opened his -doors to General Grant, and about a year later had left Rangoon for -ever. Rice and teak were the sole sources of wealth. The oil-fields -were as yet unexplored. The price of rice had not risen to its recent -fictitious height. There were no limited companies with opportunities -for unlimited speculation. - -About this time the Diocese of Rangoon was constituted, and Dr. J. H. -Titcomb was consecrated the first Bishop. Coming straight from England, -with no knowledge of the East, Bishop Titcomb's inexperience betrayed -him into some pardonable mistakes. Very soon after his arrival, he -surprised some friends with words to this effect: "Though I have been -here such a short time, I regret to say that already sorrow has visited -my household. I have had to give my cook a week's leave to bury his -grandmother." For a cook to ask leave to attend his grandmother's -funeral is much the same as for an undergraduate to prefer a similar -request in Derby week. I mean no disrespect to a good man's memory by -telling this innocent story. The Bishop won all hearts by his kind -and gentle bearing, and was, I am sure, an excellent occupant of the -new See. He was the first Prelate with whom I was privileged to play -lawn-tennis. - -A little earlier had been tried the eccentric experiment of appointing -a Forest Officer to the charge of the Education Department in the -temporary absence of the Director. The acting Director played the part -of Balaam with a difference. In his first and last Annual Report, -instead of blessing, he freely cursed the Department and all its works. -Mr. Max Ferrars still flourishes. He has returned to his early love, -and professes literature at a German University. He will forgive me for -exhuming this early incident of his career. The Education Department, -from time to time, has incurred much obloquy, for the most part -undeserved. Its errors have been due to want of intimate knowledge of -the language and customs of the people. Certainly it has never merited -the cynical censure, perhaps unwittingly implied in a Government -Resolution which, in removing an officer as an incorrigible drunkard, -remarked that he might obtain employment in the Education Department. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -THE FIRST SUBDIVISION: THE SECRETARIAT - - -My first subdivision was Pantanaw in the Delta of the Irrawaddy. The -town from which it was named stands on a narrow creek through which -used to pass the steamers of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company plying -between Rangoon and Bassein. Long since the mouth of the creek has -silted up. When next I visited Pantanaw, as Commissioner, I had to -approach the town in a small boat of the shallowest draft. But, in '79, -the arrival of the Bassein steamer was the event of the week. Pantanaw -is said to be a Talaing (and portmanteau) word meaning "The abode -of the people who have to use mosquito nets." If the Burma Research -Society correct this statement, I must bear it. At any rate, if the -etymology is false, the connotation is true. Burma could show places -where mosquitoes were more numerous and more valiant, where even cattle -had to be put under nets at night and prisoners in jail protected by -iron gratings. But the mosquitoes of Pantanaw were plentiful and brave -enough. After a short time one seems to become more or less immune -against ordinary mosquito bites. The new-comer is more succulent and -more attractive to this friendly insect. It is the song of the creature -which is a persistent annoyance. But the mosquito of these parts has -no curious taste. To the last he bit me as well as sang in my ears. -In those days the local mosquito apparently was not of the kind which -carries malaria. Or perhaps, owing to the backward state of sanitary -education, he had not yet learned his trade. Cholera and smallpox -excepted, the delta was comparatively free from serious diseases. -Though swampy and water-logged, it was not beset by malignant fevers. - -Our house was humble. In accordance with the usage of the time, it was -built on piles, so that the rooms were 8 or 10 feet above the ground. -Thus we lived well out of the mud and out of reach of snakes. An open, -slippery, wooden stair ascended to the doorway. The walls were of -mat, and the roof was of thatch. I am willing to believe that there -was a plank floor, though I have a vague impression that we trod on -split bamboos. The house consisted of one fairly large room, divided -into two by a mat partition reaching nearly to the unceiled roof. -One part was the bedroom, with a bathroom attached, the other was a -combined dining- and drawing-room. Tacked on was one more room, about -the size of a three-berth cabin. This was the study or library. Having -mosquito netting over door and windows, it was habitable even after -sunset. During our sojourn, Government very kindly began to build a -nice new house for us. It was our Promised Land, of which we had but a -Pisgah-sight. We watched its progress with interest, often visiting -the work and suggesting small improvements. We were transferred about a -week before it was finished. I slept in it once, twenty years after. - -Pantanaw was a depot for Ngapi, that malodorous compound of decayed -fish in which Burmans delight. The public buildings were a courthouse -with a police-station hard by, a hospital, a schoolhouse, and a -bazaar, or market. The rest of the town consisted of native houses of -fishermen, traders, and brokers. In the dry weather, the foreshore -was covered with huts. Bitter and ceaseless were the disputes between -brokers and traders about claims to hut-sites on the sands. The streets -were causeways of loose bricks. Except through the town itself, we had -one walk, over one of these brick paths to the Burmese cemetery. The -whole subdivision supported one pony. He lived in ease and affluence, -as you could not ride for half a mile without coming upon an impassable -stream. We were the only European inhabitants. Two other people spoke -English, a Jew shopkeeper named Cohen, whom Burmans, not holding him -in high respect, preferred to call Maung Hein,[31] and an Arakanese -schoolmaster, with whom I maintained an intermittent acquaintance -to the end of my service. Our nearest English neighbours were the -subdivisional officer of Yandoon and his wife, who on one red-letter -day paid us a flying visit. Our medical attendant was an Indian -hospital assistant, or as now he would be called more appropriately, -Sub-assistant surgeon, a very capable, good man. The civil surgeon -lived at Maubin, the district headquarters, a day's journey off. To -young civilians of the present time, this would seem an impossible -place for a man with a wife and child. We enjoyed life and were happy. -The experience was of use to me, years afterwards, as secretary, when -young officers complained of their posting by the Chief Commissioner to -remote and unpopular stations. Even the young wife could not be played -with effect. But I believe I got myself disliked. - -My official colleague was the subdivisional police officer, Maung -Shwe O, Inspector, afterwards Assistant Superintendent. He was a very -smart, good-looking man, whose subsequent career was distinguished. -I maintained friendly relations with him as long as I stayed in -Burma. The clerks in my office were Burmans, who spoke and wrote only -Burmese. Very capable and efficient were many of these vernacular -clerks, thoroughly versed in office routine and management, and well -educated in their own language. My head clerk, Maung Shwe Tha, was a -man of presence and dignity, with, it was said, a trace of French blood -in his veins. The Circle Thugyi still, I hope, survives in honoured -retirement. His son became one of the most useful members of the -Provincial Service. - -The subdivision was of very large extent. Comprising the townships of -Pantanaw and Shwelaung, it stretched past Kyunpyathat to the sea. At -Shwelaung there was a Myo-ôk, but at Pantanaw I was my own township -officer. I had to try all civil and criminal cases, to copy English -correspondence, and to do the revenue and executive work of the -township. Though during my year at Pantanaw I had only second class -powers as a magistrate, still, without a Myo-ôk at headquarters, and -with all these various duties, it might be supposed that I was grossly -overworked. On the contrary, I had an easier time there than ever after -fell to my lot. Still young and zealous, I believe I did all there -was to be done. But I found time to be on tour about half of every -month, while in the cold weather I spent more than a solid month in the -jungle, walking over rice-fields, inspecting, measuring, and computing -the out-turn of every holding in respect of which remission of revenue -was claimed. As there had been a somewhat widespread failure of the -rice crop, this was a task of some magnitude. The development of the -country and the growth of work are impressed on me by nothing so much -as by a comparison between the Pantanaw subdivision in 1879-80 and -the same area in the present day. Then, with the help of one not very -efficient Burmese Myo-ôk, I did all the work of the subdivision with -ease. Now that area is a large part of the Ma-u-bin and Myaung-m[)y]a -districts. It occupies half the time of a Deputy Commissioner and -District Judge, and half the time of one or two subdivisional officers, -who break down in succession from overwork, four or five township -officers, and several judicial and additional Myo-ôks. The Shwelaung -Township is now the Wakèma Subdivision, one of the most laborious -charges in the Province. A very small, obscure, and swampy village was -Mawlamyainggyun, now the headquarters of a township, and one of the -most flourishing towns in the Delta. I have always cherished the belief -that I was the first European official to discover it. - -In those days and in that part of the country there was a remarkable -absence of serious crime. During my year at Pantanaw one murder was -committed and one dacoity was reported. Of the dacoity I made a full -meal. The report reached me when on tour in the middle of the rains. -Off I went in a small open dugout to make an investigation on the spot. -Arriving, drenched to the bones, with no kit, I held the inquiry, clad -in a bath towel, reclining in the balcony of a Burmese hut, partly -sheltered by a mat-wall. I fared sumptuously on boiled eggs, rice, and -jaggery (palm sugar), fare, which I commend, as, if not noble, yet -enough. A mat on a plank floor was a sufficient sleeping-place. I never -found any difficulty in sleeping on boards. The really hard bed is the -bosom of mother earth with too scanty an allowance of straw. The report -of the dacoity was false. - -At Pantanaw I learned to talk Burmese with fluency, if not with -accuracy, and to read it with ease. I had to talk it or be silent half -my days. And all office work had to be done in the vernacular. But -too early and too long a stay in the Secretariat and constitutional -indolence prevented me from acquiring a profound or scholarly -knowledge of the language. Up to a certain point Burmese does not -seem to me abnormally difficult. The written character, though at -first sight it looks impossible, is much easier than, for example, -Urdu script. But the attainment of real proficiency is a laborious -task. The want of good literature is a discouragement at the outset. -For, as a literary medium, Burmese is singularly defective. According -to one of the best authorities, the high-water mark of Burmese prose -is reached in the State papers of the Hlut-daw.[32] As if one should -seek for models of prose in Blue-Books. A wealth of idioms, a chaotic -grammar,[33] a variety of delicate accents, combine to bewilder the -student. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, most of our officers have -a good knowledge of the spoken and written language, and some are -finished scholars. One thing all can do: all can read petitions and -other vernacular papers, and are less in the hands of clerks than -officers are understood to be in other Provinces. - -Here, too, I had opportunities of learning in practice something -about two of the main sources of revenue, land and fisheries. Though -the Land and Revenue Act, recently brought into operation, is not -the most lucid of statutes, the land-revenue system is free from -complexity. Its chief merits were sweetness and simplicity,[34] as an -ingenious printer tried to make the Burma Government plead for its -transliteration scheme. The State was the landlord. It was, then, an -article of faith that there were no tenants in Burma, that every man -cultivated his own moderate holding. Though not literally, this was -for a long time approximately true. In the Delta land was to be had -in abundance, and Burmans and Karens for the most part cultivated -their own farms. A constant and sufficient rainfall and a fertile soil -combined to yield a rich harvest. Regular settlements were not begun -till a year or two later. Meanwhile the rates of land revenue were -absurdly low. Each holding was supposed to be measured yearly by the -Circle Thugyi, who had no training in surveying. The Thugyi gathered -in the revenue of his Circle and received a liberal commission on the -collections. If crops failed or were destroyed by drought, floods, or -rats, generous remissions of revenue were granted after inspection -by the subdivisional or township officer, or, where large sums were -involved, by the Deputy Commissioner himself. When I hear urged against -the proposed nationalization of land the consideration that the State -would be an austere landlord, requiring its dues each year without pity -or indulgence, I cannot help remembering that it was far otherwise in -Burma. It may be, however, that in other countries the system would not -be worked by a Service whose members from their youth up are trained -to sympathize with the people, to regard as their title to respect -the name of the cherisher of the poor. Besides land revenue, the only -tax paid by the cultivator was capitation tax. This was paid by all -sorts and conditions of men, except the aged and infirm, at the rate -of Rs. 5 for a married man, and Rs. 2/8 for a bachelor. It was a crude -and unscientific tax, falling equally on rich and poor. But it was a -light burden, and crushed no one. The standard of living among Burmans -and Karens in the Delta was moderately high. Luxuries were few, but -comforts were universal. Walking over miles of rice-fields in familiar -talk with Thugyis and farmers, I became acquainted with the conditions -of the cultivators, and I laid the foundation of lasting esteem and -affection for the people. - -My subdivision included many of the great fisheries of the Delta. All -the streams and creeks were divided into fisheries, which were sold -by auction once a year. The Court House would be filled with bidders, -all fishermen, and the bidding was often reckless. The large fisheries -sold for substantial sums, the total annual revenue being about five -lakhs of rupees. Inspection of fisheries and examination of the methods -of working were among the subdivisional officer's duties. Fishermen -destroy living creatures, and by good Buddhists are held to be children -of perdition. But they enjoy life, regardless of the doom in store. A -visit to one of the great fishing villages was an agreeable incident, -pleasantly varying the monotony of official routine. The whole village -turned out in boats to welcome us. Boats paddled by girls in bright -attire, carrying troupes of dancers gracefully posturing, crowded the -stream in picturesque profusion. Races between canoes filled with -crowds of shouting paddlers went on throughout the day. At night would -be presented a pwè, or many pwès. Pwè is one of the hardest worked of -Burmese words, and represents perhaps the most characteristic feature -of the country. In its best-known sense it means an entertainment, -usually dramatic, or of the nature of a ballet. But a race also is a -pwè, and so, singularly enough, is an examination or a Durbar. The -legitimate drama is a puppet-show, the dolls being cleverly worked by -strings from behind the stage, and the dialogue hoarsely recited by the -manipulator with hardly an attempt at ventriloquial effect. Less highly -esteemed by Burmese connoisseurs is a drama played by real actors and -actresses. The stock characters are the prince, the princess, and -the clown. The princess, unabashed, arranges her hair, makes up her -cheeks and eyebrows, and even manages to change her dress in view of -the assembly. The clown, by boisterous and often indecorous jest, -raises peals of merriment. The ballet pwè is a set of posture dances, -performed either by one, two, or three girls, or by groups, generally -of girls, sometimes of young boys. Dancing is accompanied by choric -songs, often topically composed for the occasion. If distinguished -visitors are present, the choral song is written to honour and welcome -them. The orchestra consists of drums, gongs, cymbals, and other -barbarous instruments placed in a circle round the agile executant. In -bygone days no charge was made for admission. That was an essential -condition. Now I hear with horror of so-called pwès played in -enclosures where money is taken at the door. A pwè lasted for hours. -Almost invariably it was performed in the open air, under the moonlit -sky, the spectators, men, women, children, and babies, sitting on mats, -smoking cheroots, enthralled from dusk to dawn. For my part I liked -best the ballet, danced by groups of young girls, daughters of the -town or village, and after that the drama played by human actors and -actresses. But I must admit that in a puppet-show the comic white horse -gaily prancing over the boards was a joy which never failed. During my -year at Pantanaw I was a welcome guest at many pwès, none of which I -attended with greater pleasure than a ballet danced by the girls of a -large fishing village. - -All our travelling was by water. There was not a steam-launch in -the Delta. Even the Deputy Commissioner did all his journeys in a -rice-boat. Such a luxury as a houseboat had not been designed even -in a vision. An officer going on tour hired a fairly large boat with -three or four rowers, and with a helmsman (pènin) perched aloft in the -stern. Often one had the same boat and crew for successive journeys. -My pet pènin was a man of authority (awza) and presence, traditionally -reputed to be an ex-dacoit. I hope he did not relapse in the troubles -which came a few years later. The forepart of the boat was for the crew -and servants. The after-deck, covered by an arched roof of bamboo, -formed a chamber sufficiently roomy wherein was space to sit or lie but -not to stand upright. Privacy was secured by arrangements of kalagas -(curtains). In such a boat I travelled for a week, a fortnight, a month -at a time, halting at infrequent villages, interviewing headmen and -Thugyis, trying cases, and doing revenue and executive work. As a rule -I travelled alone, always unarmed and without a guard. No precautions -were needed in that time of profound peace, when we felt, and were, -secure from danger. Propelled by long oars, the boat moved generally -with the tide. But I have known Burmans row with, and against, the -tide for hours at a stretch, a fact which may surprise people taught -to regard the Burman as an idle fellow. He is neither idle nor lazy. -When occasion demands, he will work as hard as anyone. The farmer and -fisherman each has seasons when he must rise up early and late take his -rest. What the Burman does not care to do is to make toil a pleasure; -to work merely for the sake of doing something or for the purpose of -amassing wealth beyond his needs. With a fertile country, with no -pressure of population on subsistence, with few wants, why should he -strive or cry? For him progress and the strenuous life in themselves -have no attraction. We are trying to teach him our ideals, to show him -how far superior is our civilization. When we shall have succeeded, -we shall have spoilt the pleasantest country and the most delightful -people in the world. - -But let us resume our tour. By day or night, as the tide serves, our -boat moves on the bosom of the wide river or threads the windings of -narrow creeks. In the rains I have been rowed against a storm of -wind, in a shroud of thick darkness. Again, I have skirted miles of -forest-clad banks, each bush alive with myriads of fireflies, an -amazing and memorable sight. When villages were scarce, a halt would -be called and breakfast taken under the shade of a mighty tree on the -grassy margin of the stream. If we stayed at a village for a day or -two, our temporary home was a zayat, one of the many rest-houses built -by pious hands for the comfort of wayfarers. Every village had on its -outskirts at least one zayat, where the traveller could rest as long -as he pleased. With the help of a few kalagas and mats lent by the -villagers, a zayat could be made quite comfortable. It was somewhat -startling to have a snake drop from the thatched roof on to one's -plate at chota haziri.[35] But such an unpleasing incident was rare. -Twice in the dry season I ventured to take my young family on tour, -and each time we were swamped by cataracts of abnormal rain. Once we -were putting up in a roomy zayat, when, soon after dark, a hurricane of -wind arose, and a deluge of rain began to fall. The kalagas were blown -in, and the baby almost blown out of his cot. We were rescued by the -headman, who came with a train of lantern-bearers, and hospitably bore -us off to his house. The rest of the night we spent under the family -mosquito-net, the family finding quarters elsewhere. The mosquito-net -was of stout opaque cloth, and covered the space of a fair-sized room. -My wife went no more on tour in the Delta. - -[Illustration: BURMESE HOUSES.] - -A pleasant interlude was an occasional visit to Father Bertrand at -his mission-station in a remote corner of the subdivision. It is a -common pose for the man of the world to profess to regard missionaries -with suspicion, if not dislike, and to hold native Christians in -abhorrence. My experience has led me far from these conclusions. The -longer I lived in the Province, the better I came to like, the more -to respect, missionaries, and the more esteem I felt for Burmese -and Karen Christians. The principal missionary bodies in Burma are -Anglicans, Roman Catholics, and American Baptists. Among all these I -have found valued friends. One of the most venerable personalities of -my early years was the saintly Bishop Bigandet, whose name will always -be held in reverence. Apart from the religious aspect, the educational -and civilizing value of mission-work cannot be overrated. Some of -the best schools and one of the only two colleges are maintained by -missions. Though Burmans generally adhere to their own creed, those -who have become Christians are for the most part men of good standing. -I do not think there are many bread-and-butter converts among them. -In an Upper Burman village I found a Christian headman, who told me -that his progenitors had been of the same faith. A mission, it was -said, had been established there in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and -the altar-fire had been kept alive for three centuries. It seemed a -creditable record. But the most abundant harvest of mission-work is -yielded by Karens. The heathen Karen, the missionaries call him, is -an uncouth, savage person. The Christian Karen, though lacking the -grace and charm of the Burman, is a law-abiding citizen, with many -sterling virtues. Even by Burmese officers it is recognized that -there is very little crime among Christian Karens. For this backward -race missionaries of all denominations have done a vast amount of -educating and civilizing work. Without wishing to make any invidious -distinction, I know nothing more praiseworthy than the devotion of -Catholic missionaries, who live ascetic lives in solitary places, -sacrificing the world to their vocation, subsisting on nothing a month, -and giving alms out of that wage. While on this subject, I may mention -the admirable work done among lepers by Catholic missions in Mandalay -and Rangoon. At each of these places is an asylum for these hapless -outcasts, where all the nursing and attendance are done by nuns and -sisters. The devotion of these gentle ladies is beyond all words of -reverence. Another excellent Catholic foundation is the Home of the -Little Sisters of the Poor in Rangoon. Here aged and helpless men and -women, without distinction of race or creed, are received and kept -in comfort. It is pleasant to record that the Home has been warmly -and liberally supported by a Burmese Buddhist, my worthy friend the -Honourable Maung Htoon Myat. - -The memory of Father Bertrand has led me far from Pantanaw. Our first -year in a subdivision was full of novelty and variety, not of an -exciting kind, and perhaps not of interest except to ourselves. Though -I learned something of the people, my stay was too short. I have no -claim to intimate knowledge of the Delta, such as that of my successor, -Mr. de la Courneuve, or my lamented friend Colonel F. D. Maxwell,[36] -who knew every creek and channel, and, apparently, every man, woman, -and child, and who was the leading authority on all questions relating -to fisheries. While at Pantanaw I made the acquaintance of the -remarkable man who planned and executed the Irrawaddy Embankments, -the late Mr. Robert Gordon. The mere financial value of this colossal -undertaking to the people and to Government may be reckoned by millions -of pounds. The work has stood the test of time, and still remains a -monument of skill and foresight, and a source of enormous revenue. - -In 1880 I spent a year in the Secretariat. After acting for a short -time as Assistant Secretary, I was retained as third man to prepare the -Annual Administration Report and see through the Press the departmental -Reports and Resolutions. My friend Mr. Burgess was acting as Secretary, -the Junior Secretary was Mr. E. S. Symes,[37] one of the most brilliant -men of his time. He became in succession Secretary, Chief Secretary, -and Commissioner. When the highest prizes of the Service were within -his grasp, a career of great distinction was prematurely ended in -melancholy circumstances early in the year 1901. _Sunt lacrimæ rerum._ -Whatever of Secretariat work I knew, I learned from Mr. Burgess and Mr. -Symes. The Chief Engineer and Public Works Secretary was Colonel Colin -Scott-Moncrieff.[38] This year, Mr. Aitchison went to Council, and was -succeeded by Mr. C. E. Bernard.[39] One of the last civilians from -Haileybury, a nephew of John and Henry Lawrence, Mr. Bernard came to -Burma with a great reputation. After serving for a short time under Sir -John Lawrence in the Punjab, and later with unprecedented distinction -in the Central Provinces under Sir Richard Temple and in Bengal under -Sir George Campbell, he became Secretary to Sir Richard Temple's Famine -Commission, and then Secretary to Government in the Home Department. -He was much trusted by Lord Ripon, with whose political opinions he -sympathized. To him, I believe, is mainly due the wide extension -of Municipal Administration in India. This, perhaps, can hardly be -regarded as his title to fame. - -In the period covered by my recollections Mr. Bernard holds a foremost -place, and will be often in the story. He was one of those rare souls -who are the salt of the earth. Bearing, I believe, in appearance some -likeness to John, in character he was akin to Henry Lawrence. Deeply -and sincerely in sympathy with the people, despising the gaud and -glitter which some regard as essential in dealing with Orientals,[40] -hating the shadow of injustice or harshness, his sole desire was to -do his duty to the utmost of his strength. His kindly consideration -was no mark of weakness. On occasion he could be stern and unbending. -He exacted, as he yielded, obedience. Combining with the finest moral -and intellectual qualities eminence in all manly pursuits, he stands -forth as an ideal figure among the men who have built up the Indian -Empire. No more chivalrous, high-minded gentleman ever served the -Crown. As an administrator, his knowledge of detail, his extraordinary -memory, his power of rapid work, were almost unparalleled. It is -ungracious to suggest even minor defects in one to whom I owe so much -and who inspired in those privileged to be near him all reverence -and affection. It may be that impatience of delay and of any failure -from the best led him to do the work of his subordinates and that -sometimes his judgment erred. But what nobility of soul, what zeal for -righteousness, what effacement of self, what courage and resolution, -what fervent, unaffected piety! Twenty years later, when mourned by -all good men, Sir Charles Bernard had long gone to his rest, his widow -was again in Burma. On the eve of her departure, entirely of their own -initiative, representative Burmans of Rangoon brought her an address -and a piece of Burmese silver-work as a token of respect for her -husband's memory.[41] - -No one but Mr. Pepys could make interesting the record of daily -journeys to the Secretariat and the compilation of Blue-Books. Let -it suffice to say that we established a precedent by observing -the prescribed date for the issue of the Administration Report, a -gloomy volume which no one save the compiler of Moral and Material -Progress has ever been known to read. Mr. Regan, the indefatigable -Superintendent of the Government Press, who never once failed in any -undertaking, or in the fulfilment of a promise, risked his life in -a sampan and hurled the copies for India on to the mail-boat a few -minutes before she left her moorings at midnight. The Report was not -lightened by the statement that "a little tasteful carving relieves the -baldness of some of our police officers." That was not the fault of the -printer. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -SOME ASPECTS OF BURMESE LIFE AND CHARACTER - - -One of the odd jobs which fell to my lot in my first year was to -consult the Elders of Bassein on the opium question. They were -unanimous in their condemnation of opium in every shape. Some races -consume opium in moderation, as Englishmen drink beer, without visible -harm. Indians, Chinese, Shans, Kachins, may be consumers of opium, -and none the worse in health or morals. The Burman is differently -constituted. Perhaps by temperament he lacks restraint, doing nothing -without overdoing it. Whenever a Burman takes to opium, he drifts -into excess and becomes an outcast from decent society. The feeling -of the better classes is perfectly consistent on this point. The term -"bein-sa" (opium-eater) is among the most opprobrious epithets that -can be applied to anyone. Among other races people of decent standing -use opium as a relaxation without loss of caste. Among Burmans it is -not so. Throughout my service I knew only one man of position who was -reputed to be a bein-sa. Even in his case the reputation may have been -undeserved. In Upper Burma, in the King's time, the use of opium by -Burmans was strictly prohibited, and I believe the prohibition was -generally enforced. Exceptions were made in the case of Chinese and -others. But the suggestion that when we occupied Upper Burma we found -a flourishing though illicit opium traffic in full swing is quite -unsupported by facts. As a race, it may be said that Burmans are -singularly free from the opium vice. The more difficult it is made for -Burmans to procure this drug, the better it will be for the country. - -Similarly, but in a less marked degree, intoxicating drinks are avoided -by good Buddhists. I was many years in Burma before I saw a drunken -Burman. I am afraid that the habit of drinking is on the increase. The -most popular liquor is what is vulgarly called "toddy," no relation -to the concoction dear to Britons. It is not a spirit, but a juice -extracted from the tari palm, and should rightly be called tan-ye, -or tari. Unfermented, freshly drawn from the tree in the cool of the -morning, it is a pleasant and refreshing drink, if somewhat oversweet. -It ferments rapidly of its own accord. Fermented, it is a heady liquor, -stealing away men's brains. In dry tracts, where the tari palm abounds, -the consumption of tari is very common, though still, I think, not -among the better classes. The Burman has no head, and succumbs at -once to a comparatively small quantity of liquor. In his cups he is a -quarrelsome, truculent savage, one of the most dangerous of created -beings. Hence, in districts where palm-groves decorate the landscape, -violent crimes, murders, cuttings, stabbings, are lamentably frequent. -It has been suggested that if all tari and kindred palms were -destroyed, the golden age would come again. Besides tari, country-made -spirits are consumed in large quantities, and illicit distillation is -commonly practised, a lucrative trade which fine or imprisonment fails -to suppress. For European liquors, except, perhaps, bottled beer, as -yet little taste has been acquired. I should like to say that the habit -of drinking is confined to labourers and peasants; but it cannot be -denied that many people of position, who should set an example, indulge -in it. Yet, on the whole, to drink is the exception; to abstain is the -rule. - -Let us turn to pleasanter topics. The amusements of the people are -many and various. In the village street you will see men sitting over -a chess-board playing a game very much like the chess known in Europe. -The moves and rules are similar, though the shape of the pieces and -their names are different. A bad habit prevails of finishing each -move by thumping the piece loudly on the board. Card games are also -in high favour, the most esteemed being the game called "ko-mi," -literally, "catch the nine." Of course, cards are played for money. -The Burman is a born gambler, and indulges his propensity on every -available occasion. We have austerely set our faces against gambling -in every form, especially gambling with cards, and interfere not a -little with this fascinating pastime. Perhaps, contrary to the current -opinion derived from tales of travellers and legends from the hills, -the real defect of the Englishman in Burma is that he is too serious, -too little inclined to make allowances for a joyous, light-hearted -people. Public gambling is sternly discountenanced. For many years the -Legislature has been occupied in devising measures for its suppression, -meeting by fresh enactments the ingenious efforts of the Courts to find -means to rescue the gambler from the meshes of the law, of the gambler -to sail as near to the wind as possible without capsizing. To the -impartial observer these alternate struggles of the Legislature to make -its prohibitions effective, of the Courts to provide loopholes for the -gambler to escape, afford much healthy amusement. I have taken a hand -in the game on both sides in progressive stages of a varied career. Let -me not be thought too flippant. If Burmans would be content to have -quiet little ko-mi parties of friends in their own houses, I for one -should be the last to object. But it is a well-known fact that gambling -parties are not conducted on these principles. Practically it may be -said that in every gambling party someone makes a profit apart from -the chances or skill of the game. This is the essential distinction of -a common gaming-house, and the practice is properly discouraged. When -it is added that gaming parties constantly lead to brawls, affrays, -violent assaults, and indirectly to thefts and embezzlements, perhaps -the attitude of the earnest official may be regarded with sympathy. -Pitch-and-toss and other forms of gambling in public places are -prohibited, as in most civilized countries. Lotteries are exceedingly -popular; they are for the most part promoted by the intelligent -Chinaman, to the detriment of the guileless Burman. A pleasing form -is that known as the "thirty-six animal" lottery. The punter stakes -on any of the animals on the board; the winning animal, having been -previously secretly determined, is disclosed when the stakes have been -made. There is room here for deception. King Thebaw is supposed to have -ruined half Mandalay by State lotteries established for the purpose -of raising revenue. No one will be surprised to hear that lotteries -on races, to which the authorities are discreetly blind, are warmly -supported by Burmans of all classes; they are of a mild description, -tickets are cheap, and really hurt no one, like the capitation tax. -It is almost superfluous to record that cock-fighting is a favourite -pastime; this, too, is against the law, but it is hardly on this -account less popular. I have heard of, but never seen, fights between -buffaloes and even elephants. - -[Illustration: CHIN-LÔN.] - -An innocent game in which so far no one has found the taint of sin -is Burmese football (chin lôn). It is played in the village street -or any open space, with a light, open-worked bamboo ball, by any -number of players. Some Burmans attain great proficiency, kicking -the ball with toe or heel, catching it on their shoulders, making -it leap unexpectedly by mere exertion of the muscles. Real football -is, of course, an exotic, but has attained great popularity. It is -seldom that the introducer of a national game can be identified, but -in this case due credit can be given to the right person. British -football was introduced into Burma some forty years ago by Sir George -Scott. When his statue adorns Fytche Square, among other trophies -a football must be carved at his feet. The game is played with zeal -and enthusiasm by countless Burman boys and young men. To see Burmans -kicking a football with naked feet is a lesson in the hardness of the -human sole. Football matches attract great crowds of Burmans in Rangoon -and elsewhere. Mercifully the adoption of the Association form of the -game has been ordained. To think of hot-headed Burmans engaged in the -rough-and-tumble of Rugby excites lurid imaginings. As it is; the -referee has an arduous and anxious time. For the most part, however, -good-humour and a sporting spirit prevail. - -Pony-races, races of trotting bullocks drawing light carts, elephant- -races, boat-races, are among the most popular sports. These also, -here as elsewhere, give opportunities for gambling; but, apart from -this, great interest is taken in them. In one of my subdivisions on one -day of every week a local pony race-meeting was held, attended by the -whole population of the small headquarter town, and often graced by the -presence of the leading officials. In those parts of the country which -are comparatively or absolutely dry Burmans are good riders, accustomed -to ponies from their childhood. Their saddle is horribly uncomfortable -to a European, their stirrups short, their knees near their noses. The -favourite pace is a smooth amble, untiring, it is thought, both to -rider and to steed. I have seen a Burman, to avoid a soft place, ride -a pony for some yards along the parapet of a bridge with a good drop -below. - -As might be expected in a country where the waterways are many, Burmans -are an amphibious race, good swimmers, at home in the water, and expert -in the management of boats with oars and sails. Wherever there is a -stream, the whole population bathes either at dawn or dusk. Men, women, -and children swim about together, and perfect decorum is observed. -Of course, boat-races are a popular amusement. Long shallow canoes, -paddled by twenty or thirty men, all shouting a boastful song, contend -in these races. At the goal is a wand suspended through a hollow -bamboo. The man in the bow of the leading boat carries off the wand. -There is thus never any dispute as to the winner. The pace is pretty -good, but not nearly so fast as that of a good English four or eight. - -As strict Buddhists, Burmans are supposed to abstain from animal food, -or, at least, from taking life for the purpose of providing food. For -fishermen, who must break this precept daily, special uncomfortable -hells are reserved. Hunting and shooting are practised at grave risk -of future disaster, and usually by the younger men who think they have -time to make up for these derelictions, or are giddily thoughtless -of the hereafter. A pious friend of mine in Upper Burma used to be -much scandalized at the levity of his aged father, who persisted in -coursing hares when he ought to have been making his soul. But as -regards the consumption of flesh of birds, beasts, and fish, there -seems to be no practical restraint among any class. So long as you -are not instrumental in causing death, you may safely eat the flesh. -Beef and poultry are freely eaten when available. Often stolen cattle -are slaughtered and eaten. The flesh of no creature which has died a -natural death, except perhaps dogs and tigers, is despised. Things -which to our taste have weird scent and flavour are highly appreciated. -The most popular article of food is ngapi, a composition of fish -suffered to decompose and prepared in many ways, all equally malodorous -in result. This is universally used as seasoning of rice at all meals. -Then there is a dreadful fruit which grows in the south, called a -"durian," a large green fruit, bigger than an average cocoanut, with -a thick rind, containing big seeds embedded in a sort of custard. It -emits a disgusting odour, which cannot be described in polite language. -Of this fruit Burmans are inordinately fond. In the King's time, every -year as the season came round, His Majesty used to charter a steamer -solely to bring up a cargo of durians. When, in later years, I told -the Ministers that we were about to build a railway to Mandalay, the -Prime Minister's first remark was: "Excellent; then we shall be able to -get our durians fresh." To my mind the taste is worse than the smell. -Yet many Europeans regard this fruit as a delicacy, and eat it freely, -even greedily. My theory is that the taste was painfully acquired by -officers stationed in remote places where durians grow, and where there -is nothing to do. By these pioneers others were persuaded to essay the -high adventure. Of a habit so difficult of acquisition and so morbid, -the devotees are naturally a little proud. One might suppose that -the nostrils of people who love ngapi and durians were proof against -any smell. On the contrary, Burmans are very sensitive to the smell -of oil burnt in cooking, which they regard as _odor nervis inimicus_, -particularly hurtful to the sick, but grievous to anyone. The third -characteristic article of diet in Burma is let-pet (pickled tea). So -far as I know, this is the ordinary tea of commerce, grown almost -entirely in the Northern Shan State of Taungbaing. It is not used to -make an infusion; the leaf is prepared for use as a condiment. The -trade and cultivation are entirely in the hands of Shans and Palaungs. -Let-pet was brought down from the hills packed in long baskets borne -on bullocks, now more commonly by train. It was formerly an article -monopolized by the King. I have not heard of any European professing to -like the taste of let-pet. - -The Burman is first of all an agriculturist. He is only a moderately -good carpenter, though he can put the bamboo to many uses. As a -boat-builder he excels, fashioning large boats on lines of grace and -beauty. Also he can, of course, make his own flimsy house of mat and -thatch, or a more substantial dwelling of teak or jungle-wood. But the -few manual industries in which Burmans really shine are those which -have an artistic basis. Where the secret of a glaze is known, as at -Bassein in the delta, and at Kyaukmyaung, the port of Shwebo, pottery -is practised as an hereditary art, and many gracious shapes and designs -are fashioned out of ductile clay. Silk is grown by an obscure race -called Yabeins. But it is as dangerous to cultivate the silkworm as -to be a fisherman. More often, therefore, imported silk is used on -Burmese looms, where cloths of lovely mingled colours and delicious -wavy patterns are still produced. Alas! this charming domestic industry -is on the wane, and both silks and cottons are now as a rule imported -from Europe. The fine natural taste of the people is deteriorating. -One of the saddest signs of this degeneracy is the substitution of the -ugly gingham or silk umbrella for the darling, bright-coloured little -tis,[42] which used to preserve the complexions of Burmese maids. -This cruel sacrifice to economy and utility has almost succeeded in -spoiling the incomparable dazzling glory of mingled colour which used -to characterize a Burmese crowd. On the occasion of a royal visit to -Mandalay, when boat-races were being held on the Moat amid the most -picturesque surroundings, the delightful effect of rows upon rows of -gaily dressed Burmans lining the farther edge was marred by a forest of -imported umbrellas reared hideous to the sky. However, word was sent -along the line that it was disrespectful to raise an umbrella in the -presence of royalty. And as if at the touch of an enchanter's wand, the -horrible excrescences disappeared and light and beauty reigned once -more. - -[Illustration: THE POTTER.] - -[Illustration: THE MYO-ÔK-GADAW.] - -An extraordinarily effective art is the lacquer-work of Pagan. Bowls -of exquisite shape, boxes for sacred books or for carrying the -necessary betel, offer choice specimens of the artist's skill. The -designs in rich colouring on these lovely works are full of vigour -and originality. Lacquering is a laborious art. A really fine box or -bowl takes months to complete. The most elaborate work is based on a -foundation of horsehair, the finished product so flexible and supple -that a bowl can be bent till the opposite sides meet without the fabric -cracking. I confess that, as regards my own treasured specimens, I -am content to know that this can be done without putting them to the -test. Even at Pagan the hateful modern spirit has begun to shed baleful -influence. Mingled with bowls and boxes, consecrated by use and wont, -may be seen cigar cases of Western shapes and other signs of decadence. - -Burmese silver-work and wood-carving are world-renowned. These fine -arts are still flourishing. Besides fashioning portable articles, such -as figures of men and elephants, or ornamented boxes, wood-carvers show -their skill and taste in elaborate designs on monasteries and other -public buildings. Some of the carving on monasteries in Mandalay, the -Queen's Monastery in A Road, and others of earlier date, is of the -highest æsthetic merit. The specimens of wood-carving in the Palace -have never appealed to me so intensely. In the presentation of figures -the execution is bold and dignified. Wood-carving seems to me to have -preserved its native simplicity, to have been less affected than other -arts by devastating Western contact. Silver-workers still produce -fabrics of grace and beauty in the best indigenous fashion; but too -often degenerate teapots and decadent toilet-sets give evidence of -debasing utilitarian propaganda. I grieve to hear that electric light -has been installed on the Great Pagoda in Rangoon as well as in the -temple of the Yakaing Paya.[43] Much have we done for Burma. But it -is sad to think that we have sullied and smirched the tender bloom of -Burmese art and artistic ideals. - -Of the national character, indications will be found scattered over -these pages. It is a mass of apparent inconsistencies. Kindness -and compassion are noticeable virtues. Children are treated with -indulgence, not always according to discretion. You will see a -constable come off a long spell of sentry duty, and straightway -walk about with a child perched on his shoulder. No orphan is left -desolate. No stranger asks in vain for food and shelter. Yet these -good people have a full mixture of original sin. They produce dacoits -who perpetrate unspeakable barbarities on old men and women. Sudden -and quick in quarrel, the use of the knife is lamentably common. Gay, -careless, light-hearted, with a strong if uncultured sense of humour, -they can be cruel and revengeful. The statistics of the Courts reveal -a mass of criminality as shocking as it is surprising. Murders, -dacoities, robberies, violent assaults, are far too numerous. I can -understand the prevalence of crimes of passion and impulse; but in a -land flowing with milk and honey, a fair and fertile land where there -are work and food enough for everyone, I cannot understand why there -should be any such sordid crimes as theft and embezzlement. - -Two characteristics distinguish Burmans from most other Eastern races. -They have no caste, and there is no seclusion of women. Socially, -therefore, we can meet on equal terms. A Burman does not shrink from -eating and drinking in our company, or need to undergo elaborate and -expensive purification if by accident or design he is sullied by our -contact. If I go to visit a Burman, I am received by his wife and -daughters, and in turn when, often with the ladies of his house, he -comes to see me, he is welcome to associate on friendly terms with -my family. The absence of caste does much to facilitate the task of -administration. Partly owing to the intelligence and docility of the -people, but mainly on account of this lack of caste, we were able, -for instance, to carry out, with no serious trouble, measures for -suppressing plague. Our real difficulty, I may say parenthetically, was -to find the right measures to take. In the end what some people call -the disgusting practice of inoculation seems to have been found most -beneficial. In some places people were encouraged to be inoculated by -making the occasion a festival; pwès were held, small presents given -to children, prizes distributed by lotteries in which the chances were -free. In Sagaing last year, out of a population of ten thousand, eight -thousand were inoculated. The local officers and their wives underwent -the operation, often more than once, by way of inspiring confidence, -as for the same purpose my wife and I were vaccinated years before at -Pantanaw. Among those inoculated there were no cases of plague. The -ridiculous suggestion that inoculation tends to spread plague has -been, we might almost say, disproved by specific experiments in Burma -and, I doubt not, elsewhere. - -To resume. Burmese women hold a position as dignified and assured as -in any country of the world. Every Buddhist believes that women are -inferior to men, that a really good woman may have the luck to be born -a man in a future incarnation. Every Burman knows that a woman is as -good as a man, and often better. It was in my experience that occurred -the pleasing incident elsewhere told not quite correctly. A young woman -came to me for a reduction of her income-tax. She said she earned her -living by selling in the bazaar. - -"What does your husband do?" I asked. - -"He stays at home and minds the children." - -This was an exceptional case, but it illustrates the relative position. -Burmese women take an active part in the business of the country. Most -of the retail trade is in their hands; sometimes they manage more -important commercial affairs. The control of a stall in bazaar or -market is regarded as a very desirable occupation. Is it indiscreet -to suggest that opportunity for gossip is an attraction? Often a wife -takes great interest in her husband's official or private work. If one -has business with a police-sergeant or Thugyi, and finds him absent, -one does not seek a subordinate, but discusses and settles the matter -with the Sazin-gadaw or the Thugyi-gadaw.[44] It is on record that, -prisoners being brought to a police-station in the absence of any of -the force, the sergeant's wife put them in the cage, and, herself -shouldering a da, did sentry-go till relieved. After these instances -it need hardly be said that in her own household the Burmese woman is -supreme. Her position is equalled only by that of a French mother. - -Girls may not go to monasteries for instruction, so elementary -education is not universal among women as among men. But many girls, -especially of the richer classes, learn to read and write. I think more -women are literate than among other Eastern people. Practice in the -bazaar, at any rate, makes them ready at mental arithmetic. One day I -was holding an amateur examination of a monastic school. The mothers -sat round, admiring the academic gymnastics of their infant prodigies. -Presently I set in Burmese form a variation of the old theme of a -herring and a half. All the boys and all their teachers took slates -and began to figure laboriously. Almost before they had begun the -bazaar women in the circle laughed and gave the answer. One pleasing -characteristic of Burmese ladies, rare among people of warm climates, -may be mentioned. Those who have not lived roughly, but have been -properly housed and tended, preserve a youthful appearance in the most -surprising manner quite to mature age. Very rare among women of all -classes is the aged appearance of comparatively young women. - -An admirable trait is the remarkable absence of serious crime among -women. It is quite rare to find a woman in prison, and I remember no -instance of the execution of a woman. While gaols in Burma provide -quarters for 15,000 men, they can accommodate only 354 women. These -seem to me very remarkable figures. There is no crowding on the women's -side of the gaol. Indeed, if imprisonment of women were abolished in -Burma, no harm would be done. I suppose Burmese women produce fewer -criminals than any other civilized race. Not that they are all angels; -they are apt to be hasty and to offend with their tongues. Sometimes -the bazaar is the scene of actual conflict between angry fair ones. But -on the whole Burmese women are strikingly innocent and well-behaved. -Good mothers and honest wives, light-hearted and sociable, they are -justly held in high esteem. - -Burmese girls enjoy much freedom. You may see them laughing and talking -at the village well, sitting at the domestic loom, walking in the -roads, engaged on household duties. Infant marriage is unknown; no -Burmese girl marries except to please herself. Like other Orientals, -girls come early to maturity, and marriages at fourteen or fifteen are -not uncommon; but as often as not a Burmese maiden does not marry till -she is eighteen or nineteen, or even older. She must not wait too long, -or she will be laughed at as an old maid.[45] The relations between the -sexes are much the same as in Western countries. Boys and girls and men -and women fall in and out of love and break one another's hearts after -the best traditions of romance. Jealousy is a prevalent vice, and many -die for love. - -[Illustration: SNAKE PAGODA.] - -[Illustration: BURMESE GIRL WORSHIPPING.] - -Buddhism recognizes and allows polygamy, and it is incorrect to say -that plurality of wives is uncommon. Several different kinds of wives -are described in the Law of Manu, which contains even an account of the -popular modern character, the wife like a mother. But many, probably -most, men live happily with one wife all their lives. In any case, -the first or principal wife has a distinct and honoured place in the -household. No ceremony of marriage is necessary or, among the mass -of the people, usual. The high Buddhist theory, how different from -the practice of this joyous people, regards life as a mistake, this -world as a vale of tears, transitory existence as the supreme evil, -and bids us all aim at the goal of eternal rest. Therefore no Burmese -monk would bless a marriage; he is more at home at a funeral. Mutual -consent is the sole essential of a marriage. Similarly, divorce is -easy. No Court need intervene. Ordinarily, separation is effected by -arrangement between the parties, sometimes in the presence of the -village elders. Although the Courts have not, perhaps, said the last -word on the law of the subject, it is commonly accepted that, even -without fault on either side, one party to the marriage can insist -on divorce against the wish of the other party to the contract. In -this respect men and women are on equal terms. The safeguard against -capricious divorce is supplied by strict rules for the division of -property at the dissolution of a marriage. In the case mentioned above, -the one who insists on separation must abandon all property to the -reluctant partner. Though so easy, divorce is far less common than -might be expected. Most married people live together till death parts -them. It is not unusual for divorced people to come together again. An -appreciable proportion of the crimes of violence is due to the refusal -of a woman to rejoin her divorced husband. I do not suggest that the -Burmese law and practice of divorce would be suitable in communities of -a more complex type. The comparatively even distribution of wealth, the -fertility of the soil and the scantiness of the population, the absence -alike of great fortunes and of abject, pinching poverty, the kindly -disposition of the race, probably combine with more obscure elements to -render somewhat primitive conditions possible. It is quite certain that -in the stage which Burmese civilization has reached the simple marriage -law works well and produces no obviously ill-effects. It need hardly be -said that there is no bar to the marriage of widows. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -ON THE FRONTIER - - -Early in 1881 I went for a very short term to Myaung-m[)y]a, in the -Delta. The subdivisional officer having suddenly broken down, I was -sent to superintend the taking of the Census. At Myaung-m[)y]a, newly -constituted the headquarters of a subdivision, there was no house. I -lived in a zayat near the Court. Myaung-m[)y]a is now the chief town -of an important district, with a Deputy Commissioner as well as a -Divisional and District Judge. Having finished the Census, I went to -Bassein, riding most of the way over bare rice-fields. Everywhere -I was received with the generous hospitality characteristic of the -Burmese people, and I made many pleasant acquaintances among Thugyis -and villagers. One village headman lives in my memory, a stalwart Karen -who in his youth had been the champion boxer at the Court of Mandalay. -He said so, and he ought to know. Probably his position was not one of -high eminence; Burmese and Karen boxing is a mild game. The challenger -leaps into the ring; slapping his chest, he dances round, bidding all -come on. It is one of the rules of the game that the players should be -equally matched in size and weight. With much difficulty a competitor -is found to fulfil the requirements and accept the challenge. At last -preliminaries are arranged, and the boxers face each other in the ring. -They may kick, and they may slap with open hand, but not with closed -fist. As soon as a drop of blood is drawn from the slightest scratch, -the fight is at an end. Gloves are not worn. This may sound barbarous, -and should be exciting; as a matter of fact, it is very harmless and -extremely dull. In my experience, Karens are better at the game than -Burmans. - -For the rest of my time as subdivisional officer, I stayed at Bassein -as the guest of Colonel William Munro, the Deputy Commissioner, an -officer of the old school who had spent his life in Burma. Colonel -Munro made use of the aptitude presumed to have been acquired in the -Secretariat during the past year and set me to write all his annual -reports on the sole basis of the figures in the appended statements. - -My next charge was the frontier subdivision of Mye-dè in the -Tha-yet-m[)y]o district. The headquarter town was Allan-m[)y]o, called -after Major Allan who was Quartermaster-General when the frontier was -demarcated. Allan-m[)y]o lies on the Irrawaddy, just over five miles -north of Tha-yet-m[)y]o,[46] the district headquarters. The distance had -to be more than five miles, or travelling allowance for the journey -would have been inadmissible. Above Allan-m[)y]o were the villages -of Myedè and Mobôn. Long ago were two young Princes, blind. It was -foretold that if they went down the Irrawaddy they should recover their -sight. So they set out on a raft. Presently, at a place where they -landed, they perceived a glimmering of the sky and exclaimed: "Mo-bôn; -there is the sky above." A few miles farther on, landing again, they -saw the ground on which they stood, and cried: "Mye-dè; there is -the earth beneath." Thus was the prophecy fulfilled and the places -received their names. Six miles north of the flagstaff on the fort at -Myedè, then no longer a place of arms, was the starting-point of the -frontier-line laid down by Lord Dalhousie's personal direction. - -The subdivision was a compact area of about a thousand square miles. -A comparatively barren land, fringed by hills of no great height, -intersected by many watercourses, now beds of dry sand, anon rushing -torrents. These mountain-streams come down with sudden violence. -Often returning from a walk or ride, one sat awaiting the subsidence -of a river bubbling over a sandy bed where an hour or so before one -had passed dry-shod. Sad stories were told of travellers cut off -in mid-stream by a rapid flood and forced to spend the night on a -diminishing islet of sand. As a rule these chaungs[47] were not too -deep to ford on pony-back, though as often as not the pony created -a painful diversion by sitting down unexpectedly and wallowing in -the waves. In these northern wilds were no teeming rice-fields, no -fat fisheries. The people were poor and unsophisticated, raising -scanty rice-crops with the aid of primitive irrigation works, earning -a precarious livelihood by boiling cutch (catechu) or cultivating -taungya[48] on the hillsides. One valuable crop they had, sessamum -(hnan); but the farmer could not reckon on a good hnan season every -year. Scattered among the hills were villages of tame Chins who had -drifted down from their own land in the distant north-west of Upper -Burma. Here were to be seen women with faces tattoed in close blue -lines, according to legend a precaution against the too demonstrative -admiration of their Burmese neighbours. The effect was singularly -unbecoming, and already the younger women were organizing successful -resistance. Chins were excellent settlers, careful and frugal -cultivators, their villages models of neatness and cleanliness as -compared with Burmese villages similarly situate. Much as I love -Burmans, I cannot honestly commend the state of their villages. -Fenced in as a protection against dacoits, the houses closely jammed -together with no respect for order; the paths, especially at the -gateways, trodden into pulpy masses of mud by the trampling oxen; the -ground-floor of each hut a pen where cattle are installed each night; -a Burmese village is an insanitary though often picturesque abode. -Even the odours seem to me less fragrant and pleasing than to some more -enthusiastic votaries. In the simple agricultural conditions of this -primitive community, the revenue work was very light. The only trouble -arose from disputes about irrigation and rights to water. Bench work -in criminal matters was not excessive, and most of the civil cases -were tried by the M[)y]o-ôk (township officer). There was ample leisure -for travelling. All the touring was done on Burman ponies, strong and -willing little creatures, averaging about 12½ and never exceeding 13½ -hands. At that time it was an article of faith that horses, or even -ponies of Waler or Arab or country-bred classes, could not live in -Burma. We have learnt better in recent years. Most of the riding was -along jungle paths through _in_-tree forest on sandy soil, quite good -going even in the rains; but there were craggy bits in the hills and -quick-sands in the streams. Touring in Burma has always been less -luxurious than camp-life in India. We travelled at every season of the -year, carrying no tents, but finding abundant shelter in monasteries -and zayats, or in frequent police-stations. Everywhere monks and -villagers were hospitable and friendly. Circle Thugyis flourished, men -who held office in succession to a long line of forefathers. Save in -one respect, the people did not seem to have many criminal tendencies. -It was natural to see the stocks near the village gate; it would have -been surprising to see them occupied. - -We marched with Sinbaungwè in Upper Burma. The border was marked by -stone pillars at set intervals and by an actual line cut in the turf, -which had to be inspected periodically and kept in visible repair. -Along the frontier at intervals of four or five miles was a series of -police posts. Picture a quadrangular enclosure girt by a kya-hlan[49] -of stout bamboos interwoven with a bristling array of bamboo-spikes, -quite an efficient protection against a rush if the heavy wooden gate -was closed. Beside the gate stood a watch-tower. In the midst was a -station-house and office, with a barred wooden cage for prisoners. -Round this were grouped the small but sufficient houses of the -constables and native officers. The posts were garrisoned entirely by -local Burmans armed with das[50] and muskets. The policeman of those -days was a picturesque person, in Burmese dress, of a pattern to some -extent dependent on the taste of the Superintendent. A red-striped -paso or lôngyi[51] marked the servant of the Queen. He wore his hair -long, surmounted by a gaungbaung,[52] and was not expected to pose as -a Gurkha sepoy. With all his many and pleasing virtues and vices, one -quality his warmest admirers have never claimed for the average Burman, -respect for discipline. You may drill Burmans till they look as smart -as soldiers of the line, and you can teach them to shoot excellently. -But so far it has not been found possible successfully to train them in -habits of discipline and method. It was, therefore, never a surprise, -though it excited clamorous if unreasonable wrath, when, on reaching a -police post a few hundred yards from the frontier, one found the great -gate ajar, the watch-tower empty, and the sentry either absent on his -own more or less lawful occasions, or peacefully sleeping with his -musket by his side. This was well enough in quiet times, but when the -war came the result was seen in the desertion of the frontier posts, -and their destruction by roving bands of dacoits. - -The frontier-line started from a pillar on the bank of the Irrawaddy, -on a spot visited by the great Governor-General himself. Hard by, on -each side of the boundary, was a telegraph office. Though the wires -ran from Rangoon to the border, and from the border to Mandalay, there -was not sufficient comity between the Governments to allow the line -to be linked. Every message to and from Upper Burma had to be carried -by hand across the intervening space of a few yards and resignalled. -Our telegraph office was the place where the subdivisional officer -met the Wun[53] of Sinbaungwè for the discussion of frontier affairs. -With that official, who was of about the same standing as myself, -my relations were somewhat stiff, civil but hardly cordial. It is a -mistake to suppose that the relations between Europeans and Burmans are -less intimate now than in earlier days. Twenty years later, in similar -circumstances, I should certainly have asked the Wun to breakfast or -dinner. Then, our meetings were rigidly formal and official. The Wun -used to annoy me by coming into the room wearing Burmese shoes, a -studiously discourteous act.[54] I could think of no better retort than -to keep my hat on during the interview. I dare say it was unworthy, but -I think it was human to feel a thrill of satisfaction when, four or -five years later, my old friend Maung Lat came to me in my office in -Mandalay crouching on the ground in the Burmese attitude of respect. -Maung Lat was a handsome man, of the usual type of Burmese district -officials. After the annexation he took service under our Government -and became a M[)y]o-ôk. He did good work, and _felix opportunitate -mortis_, died before he was found out. At our meetings at Myedè, -cattle-driving raids across the frontier were among the most frequent -subjects of discussion. This was the darling sin of adventurous -spirits on each side of the border. In a country where cattle are the -most valuable of the farmer's possessions, cattle theft is one of the -crimes which most sorely vexes the magistrate's righteous soul, and is -most rigorously punished. All possible steps were taken to suppress -it, and offenders were visited with stripes and imprisonment. Yet one -could not help recognizing that to drive whole herds of oxen across -the border, to evade police posts, to carry the spoil by unfrequented -paths through the heart of our districts till it could be sold many -miles away, perhaps in a cattle-market under the eyes of officials, -was an attractive and exciting adventure. On the whole, our men had -the worst of the game. If they were caught driving cattle from across -the frontier, they were punished as if they had committed the offence -in British territory, while cattle-thieves from Upper Burma who got -over the line with their plunder were seldom brought to justice. Hence -many wrangles with Maung Lat. Once only I really had the best of the -encounter. I bluffed him into handing back to me on the spot a man who -had been seized on our side and carried off to Sinbaungwè. At the time -the incident seemed to me of international importance. - -The man who had set his stamp on the subdivision was my friend Mr. -Burgess, who spent there the first seven years of his service, greatly -to the benefit of himself and of the people. He made roads, kept the -peace, and impressed the countryside by his zeal for justice and good -order. Even in those dark days, before the light of a Decentralization -Commissions had shone, needless transfers seem to have been avoided. -The township officer, my old and valued friend and colleague, Maung -Tet P[)y]o, held his charge for many years. He was an official of the -very oldest school, not very learned, with only a working knowledge of -codes, but thoroughly acquainted with every inch of his township, and -with every man, woman, and child of his people. He had, of course, -no English. I doubt if he was ever required to pass a departmental -examination. His handwriting was so bad that my Burmese clerks often -had to come to me to decipher it. Maung Tet P[)y]o was a man of courage -and energy, who somewhat shocked the straighter sect of Buddhists by -being an ardent sportsman. Burmans told with admiration that he shot -birds on the wing. He filled the measure of his days, was decorated, -and many years after his retirement died honoured and lamented. -Curiously enough, though so nearly illiterate, he will probably be -remembered as the compiler of a book on the "Customary Laws of the -Chins," a treatise which attracted the attention of Mr. Jardine,[55] -the Judicial Commissioner, and was translated under his direction. -The manuscript was beautifully written out by my clerk, Maung Po, -afterwards a M[)y]o-ôk, one of my many Burmese friends, who, I suspect, -was responsible for more than the transcription. - -At Tha-yet-m[)y]o, then a military station of some importance, were -half the 43rd Regiment, still on this side of the frontier, the 44th -Regiment, two battalions of Madras Infantry, and guns. The fort, north -of the town, was duly garrisoned. At Allan-m[)y]o we had a detachment -of British infantry in barracks on the hills east of the station. The -civil officers were the Assistant Superintendent of Police, the late -Mr. B. K. S. MacDermott, afterwards in the Commission, best of comrades -and good fellows, and the Assistant Engineer, Mr. H. W. James, now -Superintending Engineer. A small Customs Office was maintained for the -registration of inland trade. The subdivisional officer was Collector -of Customs, without fee or reward. In that capacity he had the use of -the Customs boat, a stout English gig, very convenient for crossing the -river, here about two miles wide. I have often seen, by the way, an -elephant swim across with just enough of his head above water to seat -the mahout.[56] At Allan-m[)y]o there was a decent little house, close to -the river-bank. When the Irrawaddy rose, the room on the ground-floor -was generally flooded. At the beginning of the rains this room used to -be invaded by swarms of tiny land-crabs, more pleasing visitors than -scorpions. Sometimes for a few days the whole town was under water, and -we went about in boats. - -Myedè, traversed by the Pegu Yoma, was pleasanter, but less healthy, -than the Delta. Here I had an attack of malarial fever, of no great -severity, which left me subject to a recurrence for the next fourteen -years or so. After that it seemed to be worn out. We had also in -my time a dreadful outbreak of cholera throughout the subdivision. -Deaths were reckoned by scores, and villages were almost depopulated. -Riding to visit the infected parts, we expected to find the dead -lying unburied in streets and houses; happily the expectation was not -literally fulfilled. - -Speaking from my personal experience, I regard Burma as a healthy -country as compared with other regions of the tropics. Much depends -on the comfort in which one lives. The very bad name which Burma no -doubt has acquired is due to a great extent to the rapid succession -of the three Burmese Wars. After each of these wars, troops, military -and civil officers, and police suffered many hardships and privations, -bivouacking under the stars, and often irregularly fed. In these -conditions sickness ensued, and much mortality and invaliding. For -people properly housed and assured of a square meal at the right time, -Burma is healthy enough. For those who work all the year round in the -jungles of Upper Burma, it is rather sickly. On the whole, Lower Burma, -except Arakan and the tracts bordering on the Yomas, is healthier than -Upper Burma. Cholera and plague are not peculiar to Burma, and are not -more deadly than in other parts of India. - -[Illustration: WHEN THE FLOODS ARE OUT.] - -Of the wealth of insect-life much has been written. Besides mosquitoes, -ants, white, red, and black, flying and merely creeping, abound in -copious variety. Once at least they stopped a ball at Government House, -flying in hosts, dropping their wings and therewith their bodies, and -reducing the floor to a mucous mass. For me, at Allan-m[)y]o, others of -their species eviscerated all my books during my brief absence. At the -beginning of the rains strange creeping, crawling, flying things, slimy -things with legs, appear in swarms. The centipede makes his nest in -your sponge; the scorpion lurks in your boot. Snakes, too, are fairly -numerous and of many kinds, from the hamadryad who chases the wayfarer, -to the Russell's viper who lies dormant in his path, and when trodden -on turns like any worm. Apart from these disadvantages, I have no -complaint to make of Burma as a country to live in. - -While discussing these generalities, I may say a few words about the -climate. Naturally, in so large an extent of country, this is subject -to considerable variations. The Delta is hot and steamy with an -abundant never-failing rainfall, and no cold weather to speak of. Much -of Upper Burma is an arid plain, with frequent hills, hot and dry, but -relieved by a pleasant cold season. Even here we do not seem to get the -constant stifling heat, day and night, of which we hear in the plains -of Northern India. I suppose some people find the heat trying. An old -friend of mine had the habit after dinner of calling his neighbour's -attention to a picture on the wall, while he surreptitiously emptied -his finger-bowl down his (own) neck. In Mandalay for some months of -the wet season (not so very wet) a tearing wind rages, and is apt -to shatter one's nerves. In Lower Burma the persistent rainfall is -impressive. People who have lived there hardly notice that it ever -rains in England. But it seldom pours both morning and evening. -Generally it is possible to get out for exercise either at dawn or at -close of day. - -To return to my subdivision. By an arrangement which seems anomalous, -but which worked well enough, for a substantial part of my sojourn in -Myedè I was also Cantonment Magistrate at Tha-yet-m[)y]o. The Commanding -Officer most kindly supervised the establishment which dealt with -hedges and ditches. My duty was to try civil and criminal cases, keep -the accounts, and attend the periodical meetings of the Cantonment -Committee. These were friendly gatherings where, unless the secretary -officiously intervened, many pleasant stories whiled away the tedious -hours. If I worked very hard, my duties on an average occupied about -five or six hours a week, for which I drew an allowance of Rs. 200 a -month. I spoil no one's market by revealing the existence of this fat -sinecure; the stipend was reduced by an economical Commission in 1887, -and has since been abolished. My Deputy Commissioners were Colonel -Horatio Nelson Davies, who had been Sir Arthur Phayre's secretary, my -friend R. H. Pilcher, and Captain (now Colonel) W. F. H. Grey, from -all of whom I received much kindness. Nor can I forbear to mention the -hospitality of Captain William Cooke,[57] whose house was always open -to me, and with whom the friendship begun in those distant days still -flourishes. The chaplain, the Rev. J. D. Briscoe, one of the best of -men, was also among my allies. He died, most sincerely mourned, in the -flower of his age, I believe from the effects of asceticism practised -from no doctrinal motives, but for the sake of example to the soldiers -among whom he worked. - -Some excitement was caused by the coming of a Burmese embassy -accredited to the Viceroy. Among them was the Kyaukmyaung Atwin- -Wun,[58] son-in-law, of the Taingda Mingyi, whom afterwards I -knew well at Mandalay. Mr. Pilcher, who was deputed to accompany them -to Simla, had met them all frequently when Assistant Resident at the -Burmese Court. But though he was distinguished from his fellows by -a flowing beard, they declined to recognize him, professing that in -their eyes all kalas were alike. Robert Pilcher had other attributes -besides his beard which might have commended him to Burmese officials. -His knowledge of their language was scholarly and profound, while his -sympathy with the people was infinite. Nothing that concerned them -was alien from him. An instance may be given. Once in after-years he -was with a column on march. Halting the column, he sat down by the -wayside to get some information from a Burman passer-by. Presently the -patient Commanding Officer asked gently if the information had been -extracted. "I am so sorry," was the reply; "I forgot all about it. He -was telling me such an interesting story about his aunt." The Mission -was hospitably received and entertained at Simla, but returned without -having effected any useful purpose. Which reminds me of the Burman -schoolboy who, asked to translate _mortuus est re infectâ_, ventured to -reply: "He died of an infectious disease." - -But by far the most thrilling incident of my stay at Allan-m[)y]o was -the visit of Sir Frederick Roberts. He came as Commander-in-Chief of -the Madras Army, the troops in Burma being in the Madras command.[59] -Attended by his staff, among whom were General Godfrey Clerk,[60] -Captain Neville Chamberlain,[61] and Captain G. Pretyman.[62] His -Excellency came to inspect the frontier stations, and marched from -Allan-m[)y]o to Toungoo across the Yôma,[63] which parts the Tha-yet-m[)y]o -and Toungoo districts. Fresh from the glories of Afghanistan and the -march to Kandahar, though then but midway in his illustrious career, -Sir Frederick Roberts was a hero in all men's eyes. It was my happy -lot to make arrangements for his march and to accompany him through my -subdivision. Thus as a young man I had the privilege of experiencing -the unrivalled charm and personal attraction or this great soldier. -To the end of my days in the East I have seen the eyes of old native -officers light up at the mention of Lord Roberts Sahib. Not Nelson -himself inspired more affection and enthusiasm in officers and men who -served and followed him. - -At the close of this year, being sent to represent the Tha-yet-m[)y]o -District, I saw the first of many Viceroys who visited Burma, Lord -Ripon. I need hardly say that I was too junior to be brought into -immediate contact with His Excellency or his staff. Mr. Primrose[64] -was private secretary, and Major Evelyn Baring,[65] Finance Member, -was of the Viceroy's party. The most obvious result of Major Baring's -visit was the stoppage of most of our remunerative jail industries. -The order for discontinuance was of general application throughout -India; Burma, still an unsophisticated place, under a ruler who had -learned to obey, was the only Province which made a serious effort -to carry the order into effect. The usual festivities were held in -honour of the Viceroy's visit, a ball, a levée, and a garden-party. -The most picturesque incident that lingers in my mind is the posting -of venerable Burmese officers, in fur coats, clasping to their -breasts silver-mounted das, in the corridors of Government House, as -a-thet-daw-saung[66] to Their Excellencies. - -At Tha-yet-m[)y]o, for the first and last time, and only for a few days, -I held charge of a district as acting Deputy Commissioner. For various -reasons there was a temporary lack of senior officers in the district. -For a short period I was not only Deputy Commissioner, but also -Cantonment Magistrate, Superintendent of Police, and Superintendent of -the Jail. I did not succeed in drawing the pay of all these offices. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -THE SECRETARIAT: THE LAST SUBDIVISION - - -Early in 1883 the acting Chief Commissioner, Mr. Crosthwaite,[67] -very considerately gave me the option of coming to Rangoon as Junior -Secretary. In those days it was usual for officers, especially young -officers, to go where they were sent, without previous reference and -without room for remonstrance. Nearly twenty years passed before I was -again consulted as to my posting. Recently a different practice seems -to have developed. Although from a financial point of view the move to -Rangoon was ruinous, we decided to risk it and went down. Except for -two brief intervals, I stayed in the Secretariat till early in 1891. -Altogether I spent in the office eleven years, a period surpassed -only, I think, by my friend Mr. C. G. Bayne.[68] In 1883 Mr. Symes was -Secretary, Mr. Burgess being on leave. - -Life was much the same as when we were here two years before. Rangoon -was still a pleasant social place. We rode in the mornings, and played -polo or tennis in the afternoons, gave a good many hours to dancing and -whist, went to the races twice a year, and in the rains to hunts once a -week. Some were even so energetic as to play tennis two or three times -a week before breakfast, a practice which our less hardy successors -have abandoned. We drove to office and out to dinner in dogcarts. Not -in those days did the Junior Secretary or his wife regard a brougham -as indispensable. Among the pleasantest meetings were hunt finishes, -hospitable gatherings where, at the end of the run, riders and their -friends were rewarded with pegs and encouraged to dance. Jests and -laughter filled the air. The cheerful subaltern leant over the veranda, -encouraging a reluctant rider at the last show-jump: "Give him his -head, sir; can't you see the pony wants to jump?" Poor Cockeram; one -of the first to fall in the guerilla warfare in Upper Burma. The -lotteries on the races were still fairly select meetings of friends and -acquaintances. In 1885 I attended them for the last time, and bandied -quips with a famous special correspondent. In reply to his remark that -we were making history, I made the obvious and unluckily too true -reply that we left that to him. I am still somewhat surprised that he, -an Irishman, should have thought it necessary gravely to explain the -origin and meaning of his observation. - -The work in the Secretariat was hard enough, but not so overwhelming -as in later times. There was a staff of good old-fashioned clerks, -most of whom had been in the office many years, whose experience -compensated the somewhat primitive methods inherited from days when -Sir Arthur Phayre himself went daily to the Secretariat in Godwin -Road. The office was quite efficient, bearing the impress of three -excellent Secretaries, Major Street, Mr. Burgess, and Mr. Symes, each -of the finest quality in his own way. Mr. Crosthwaite, whose name is -associated with Burma more intensely than that of anyone save Sir -Arthur Phayre, acted as Chief Commissioner for a year in 1883-84, -during Mr. Bernard's absence on leave. - -About this time India was violently agitated by the Ilbert Bill. In -all parts of India the bulk of the magisterial work is done by native -officers. Living in places more or less remote were many Europeans, -planters and others, whom it was thought undesirable to subject to -the jurisdiction of Indians. The law therefore ordained that only -magistrates themselves Europeans and of proved experience should -exercise powers in criminal cases over persons classed as European -British subjects. This was, I venture to say, a wise and necessary -provision. By the Ilbert Bill it was proposed to abolish this -distinction and to place Europeans and natives on the same footing in -respect of criminal procedure. It was a doctrinaire proposal of the -worst kind, subversive of the prestige of the ruling race, and quite -uncalled for by the circumstances and exigencies of the time. One -thing only can be said in its favour. It was offered as a voluntary -boon, not as a concession to seditious clamour and agitation. By all -classes of Europeans the proposal was vehemently opposed. In many -parts, especially in Bengal, passionate excitement was stirred up. -The Viceroy, believed to have been the only begetter of the Bill, -seated on the Olympian heights of Simla, failed to realize the extent -and force of the opposition to his project. Not till he came down to -Calcutta did he understand the situation. In the capital there was -enough visible ferment to indicate the seething passions beneath. Wild -stories are told of the intentions of the European community, had the -Bill been pressed. If Lord Ripon had not come to Calcutta, he would -have continued in ignorance, surrounded only by officials, unblest -by the saving grace of contact with living public opinion. In Burma -alone among the Provinces of India, the subject failed to kindle a -spark of vital interest. There were few Europeans scattered through -the country likely to be affected by the proposed change in the law. -And, for reasons which it would not be difficult to analyze, Europeans -in Burma have seldom been very clamorous in expression. By some of the -more ardent spirits, however, it was felt that Rangoon ought not to -be left entirely out of the movement. After much delay, a meeting to -demonstrate and protest against the Bill was convened at Mr. Fowle's -new Town Hall for one fine Saturday afternoon. On the morning of the -appointed day, the _Rangoon Gazette_ published in advance an account of -the meeting, with the names of the speakers very thinly disguised, and -with parodies of the speeches they were expected to deliver. The plot -was hatched in the Secretariat. Though I was _pars exigua_, the account -was mainly written by Mr. Bayne. The secret was never disclosed, and -the incident has no doubt long ago been forgotten. At the time our -_jeu d'esprit_ had a _succès fou_. This we knew by the wealth of abuse -heaped on our unknown heads by correspondents of the rival newspaper, -the _Rangoon Times_. Further ill-luck attended the meeting. Just before -it opened, news came that a compromise had been effected, and that -substantial modifications were to be made in the Bill. The meeting was -held, and speeches, much as we had foretold, were delivered, but as the -measure was already dead the demonstration fell rather flat. - -For two or three months in 1884 I acted as Revenue Secretary and -Director of Agriculture. In that capacity I signed and issued the first -of the annual forecasts of the exportable surplus of the rice-crop. -Candour compels me to confess that the signature was all that I -contributed to this or any later forecast. For the first Mr. Bernard -was entirely responsible. With some misgiving he raised the figure to -975,000 tons. These forecasts have been issued year by year ever since, -and on the average have been so close to the actuals as to evoke the -expressed admiration of the mercantile community. The latest forecast -predicted a surplus of over 2,600,000 tons, a remarkable increase in -less than thirty years. - -By another stroke of luck I acted as Secretary for three months early -in 1885 in place of Mr. Symes on privilege leave. Later in the year, -owing to Mr. Burgess's return for a short time to the Secretariat, I -had my last experience of subdivisional work. M[)y]anaung, just above -the Delta, but not in the dry tract, was one of the most charming -subdivisions. The Deputy-Commissioner, Mr. A. M. B. Irwin,[69] was most -able and genial, an admirable chief whose knowledge of district work -has never been surpassed. These months were pleasant and restful after -the somewhat strenuous life of the Secretariat. The duties were light, -the house comfortable, the riding good. Now a railway runs through the -subdivision, but till recently all travelling was by unmetalled roads, -jungle paths, and along the embankment which restrained the river. Two -township officers, one at Kanaung, one at Kyangin, shared the ordinary -work. - -Among the reforms introduced by Mr. Bernard was the selection of a -certain proportion of M[)y]o-ôks by competitive examination. M[)y]o-ôks, it -will be remembered, are officers, generally natives of the Province, -who have charge of townships. Previously they had been appointed by -Government solely on the recommendation of Commissioners and other -high officers. Mr. Bernard devised a system combining nomination and -competition. But a great many direct appointments were still made. The -system is still in force except that recently I threw the competitive -examination open to all young men of good health and character. On the -whole the plan has worked well. A great many of the M[)y]o-ôks appointed -after examination have proved themselves very valuable officers. I -agree that many of our best M[)y]o-ôks and Extra Assistant Commissioners -have been men of character and integrity, well educated in their own -language, but hardly likely to secure appointments by open competition. -No one appreciates these men more highly than I do. But the scheme -of administration becomes yearly more complex. And in an increasing -number of offices a good knowledge of English is essential. By the -competitive system, if a high standard is maintained, some of the best -among the educated youth are attracted to Government service, while -the reservation of a number of posts for direct appointment keeps -open the door for those who are distinguished by birth and character -rather than by academic aptitude. The objection that under the open -competitive system we have no guarantee of candidates' social standing -has very little weight in Burma. It is a country where fraternity and -equality are realities, where class distinctions are of little value. -One of my M[)y]o-ôks was of the old school. Formerly a pleader, he had -earned his appointment by being instrumental in the capture of the -Myingun Prince.[70] The other was a competitioner, and not perhaps -a good example of my thesis. A man of good education who had been -a schoolmaster, he seems to have missed his vocation by becoming a -Judge and magistrate. His wife, a clever bustling woman, was thought -to supply some of her husband's deficiencies. It was said, probably -untruly, that on occasion she would come into Court and stir up the -peons[71] and punka-pullers. The M[)y]o-ôk's house was a pleasant place -to visit. He had two charming little daughters of tender years, who, -in a most engaging way, used to stand up and recite to visitors "Lord -Ullin's Daughter," and other English verses. My friend afterwards -resumed his original profession, which no doubt suited him better. His -son is an officer of great ability and distinction. - -Recalling my quiet life at M[)y]anaung, I am reminded of some instances -of Burmese superstition. Some fishermen of that place before starting -work made the customary offerings to nats. One of them placed his -offering of rice in a dish from which the dogs were fed. His companions -exclaimed at this impious act and warned him of the consequences. -That day, when they were all in their boats, a monstrous crocodile -appeared. "See," said the fishermen, "the result of your wickedness." -The offender took no heed of the warning, but next day repeated his -insult to the nats. So he filled the cup of his iniquity. That morning, -in the midst of the fishing, the crocodile again appeared. This time -the contemner of nats was knocked out of his boat and perished in the -waters. - -Burmans are firm believers in ghosts, know well the danger of passing -graveyards after dark, and are convinced of the existence of good and -evil spirits. I remember one curious case in which superstitious terror -had a lamentable issue. In the middle of the rains a man was cutting -grass in a field. The rain pattered noisily on his kamauk.[72] Suddenly -he heard close behind him what sounded like an unearthly voice. In a -panic he turned hastily and made a cut with his sickle-shaped knife, -unhappily with fatal effect. The speaker was a harmless villager, whose -voice, by evil chance, was singularly gruff. In a moment, recognizing -the catastrophe, the grass-cutter gave his best attention to the victim -of his fear, but in vain. The police quaintly reported that the man -had cut in the direction of the sound, "thinking it was a devil, but -admitted that he was mistaken." I am glad to say that we were not so -pedantic as to bring the grass-cutter to trial for his misadventure -which he sincerely regretted. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE TAKING OF MANDALAY - - -Mr. Burgess having gone to act as Commissioner, I was recalled to the -Secretariat in some haste, in my former capacity as Junior Secretary. -It was in the midst of the excitement of a probable rupture with Upper -Burma. Our relations with the Court of Mandalay had long ceased to be -cordial. So long ago as 1879 our representative had been withdrawn, -and such communications as were necessary with the Burmese Government -had been conducted by letter. In the absence of the Resident matters -gradually drifted from bad to worse. British subjects, travellers -and traders from Lower Burma, were subjected to insult and violence -by local officials, and representations to the central authority -demanding redress were generally fruitless. In contravention of the -express terms of the Treaty of 1867, monopolies were created to -the detriment of trade both in Upper and Lower Burma. Owing to the -weakness and corruption of the Burmese Government, society became -thoroughly disorganized, so that turbulent tracts on the frontier -became a standing menace to the peace of our districts. At the same -time, the Burmese Government showed a marked and persistent anxiety -to enter into alliances with foreign Powers, in such a manner and to -such an extent as to give ground for apprehension that grave political -trouble might result. While the Indian Government was unrepresented in -Mandalay, representatives of France and Italy were welcomed, and two -separate embassies were sent to Europe, one under the guise of a merely -commercial mission, for the purpose of contracting new and if possible -close alliances with European Powers. Neither of these missions visited -England or showed any desire to win the friendship of representatives -of the British Government at the Courts to which the Burmese envoys -were accredited. Throughout the reign of King Mindôn, young scions of -families of leading men about the Court were sent to England, France, -and Italy to study the language and manners of European countries. In -the reign of his successor this policy was continued, with the studied -omission of England.[73] - -Having no Resident, we had to find means of keeping ourselves informed -of events in Mandalay. One of our correspondents was Mr. A. E. -Rawlings, the Postmaster, who for a moderate subsidy wrote periodical -news-letters to the Secretary. He sent much useful and interesting -matter. There was also another correspondent whose reports were -extraordinarily accurate and instructive, and from whose keen vision no -secret transaction was hidden. - -It has always seemed to me that the proximate cause of the annexation -of Upper Burma was the patriotic and enlightened Minister known as -the Kinwun Mingyi. Some years before, this gentleman had travelled -in Europe as head of a commercial mission, and had been received -with great distinction. His progress was a triumph; insignia of -Continental orders, illuminated addresses of English manufacturing -towns, were showered upon him as if he had been Minister of the Great -Mogul. To us who realize the insignificance of the King of Burma as -a potentate, these proceedings savour of the ridiculous. During this -visit the Kinwun Mingyi obtained some superficial knowledge of European -politics and of the relations between the Great Powers. Many years -later, when there was no longer a British Resident at Mandalay, and -when the path seemed clear of obstacles, the Mingyi conceived the -ingenious plan of contracting political relations and making treaties -with several States, such as France, Germany, and Italy. The subtle -intention was to play off one against another, so that, while none -would have predominant influence, all would be interested in opposing -and thwarting the ambitious designs of Great Britain. There was some -statesmanship in the project, but not quite enough; and with the best -intentions the Mingyi compassed the downfall of the dynasty of which he -was a devoted servant. By the autumn of 1885 negotiations with France -had made good progress. A French Consul was appointed to Mandalay, and -plans for the foundation of a French bank were initiated. A treaty was -provisionally concluded, though never formally ratified. The ostensible -cause of the rupture with the Burmese Court was the imposition of -an enormous fine on the Bombay Burma Trading Corporation, a British -company carrying on extensive operations in Upper Burma forests. -Probably in any case the British Government would have intervened, on -account of the treatment received by the Corporation. But the ultimate -cause of intervention was the apprehension lest France or some other -European Power should establish a preponderant influence in Upper -Burma, and create a situation which would render our position in Lower -Burma intolerable. - -When I got back to Rangoon, the preliminary correspondence with India -and Mandalay was starting. It was all desperately urgent and deadly -secret, and the Chief Commissioner and his Secretary were more than -fully occupied. The Burmese answer to our first representation was -deliberately curt and discourteous. Under the orders of the Government -of India an ultimatum was therefore sent to the King of Burma. He -was required to suspend the execution of the decree against the -Corporation, to receive at Mandalay an envoy from the Viceroy with -a view to the settlement of the matter in issue, and for the future -to permit the residence at the capital of an agent of the Indian -Government, who should be received and treated with the respect due -to the Government which he represented. It was further intimated that -the Burmese Government would be required to regulate its external -relations in accordance with advice of the Government of India, and to -afford facilities for opening up British trade with China.[74] - -The ultimatum was despatched on the 22nd of October, 1885. It was taken -by Captain Cooper, of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, on the steamer -_Ashley Eden_, which went specially to Mandalay for the purpose. An -answer was required by the 10th of November. In default of receiving a -reply Captain Cooper was instructed to leave Mandalay on a fixed date. -The mission was of a hazardous nature. Captain Cooper discharged it -with intrepidity and skill. He remained with his steamer fires banked, -and he returned bearing the haughty and uncompromising answer of the -Burmese Government. As he passed down the river he ran the gauntlet -of the fire of forts on the bank. Such was the Burmese notion of the -courtesy due to envoys. The answer was received in Rangoon on the 9th -of November. Two days earlier the King of Burma issued a proclamation -calling on his subjects to rally round him to resist the unjust demands -of the British Government, and expressing his determination to efface -these heretic foreigners and conquer and annex their country.[75] - -When the ultimatum was considered by the Burmese Court and Government, -there seems to have been a division of counsel. The two highest -officers of State were two Mingyis, the virtuous and temperate Kinwun, -the corrupt and blood-thirsty Taingda. The Queen, Sûpaya-lât, was -certainly present when the situation was discussed. The Kinwun advised -moderation and diplomacy; the Taingda was for blood and fury. The -Queen's voice was for resistance. She had the unexampled impertinence -to tell the Kinwun Mingyi, a man of mature and reverend years, her -father's trusted Councillor, that when she had beaten the English she -would dress him in a tamein[76] and send him to live among the women. -The counsels of unreason prevailed. The proclamation was issued, and -futile resistance was undertaken. - -Meanwhile, in anticipation of an unfavourable reply to the ultimatum, -preparations for the advance on Mandalay had been rapidly made. The -speed with which the expedition was organized and set in motion was -almost incredible. The first orders for the mobilization of troops -were issued by Government of India on or about the 19th of October; -the expeditionary force crossed the frontier on the 14th of November, -1885. The force was of all arms, including some Madras Cavalry and -some mounted infantry. Except the detachment of the Rangoon Volunteer -Rifles, which patriotically volunteered for active service, all the -troops were sent from India. For the promptitude of the despatch from -Rangoon, the chief credit is due to Mr. Bernard himself, who placed -all the resources of his position and all his personal energy and -experience at the disposal of the military authorities. Every day saw -him on the river-bank supervising and urging on the preparations. -Much praise is due also to the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, which -made every vessel of their fleet available and carried the whole -expedition. Of course, this was not all pure patriotism on the part -of the Company; but the service rendered by them was of inestimable -value, and contributed largely to the brilliant success of the -operations. The command of the force was entrusted to Major-General -Harry Prendergast, V.C.,[77] a most gallant and distinguished officer, -who had already served in Burma, and was thus specially qualified for -the appointment. Already, in the pursuit of intelligence, he had even -penetrated into Upper Burma in peaceful guise. In command of brigades -were Brigadier-General G. S. White, V.C.,[78] Brigadier-General Norman, -and Brigadier-General Forde; while the staff included Major W. P. -Symons,[79] then at the beginning of a glorious career. The troops were -specially enjoined to treat the people of the country with kindness -and consideration. One precept directed that in addressing a Burman -the soldier should say "Kinbya," not "Hey, Johnny!" A book of Burmese -phrases, laboriously compiled by a gentleman unacquainted with the -language, was profusely distributed. It is pleasant to be able to -record, with perfect honesty, that never did army of occupation behave -with more restraint and moderation, or more readily win the esteem and -respect of a subject people. - -The Chief Civil and Political Officer with the expedition was Colonel -E. B. Sladen[80] of the Burma Commission. Four young officers Mr. -R. Phayre, C.S.,[81] Mr. A. S. Fleming, C.S., Captain G. S. Eyre, -of the Commission, and Mr. G. G. Collins accompanied the force as -civil officers. Mr. R. C. Stevenson, also of the police, one of the -foremost Burmese scholars, was attached to General Prendergast as chief -interpreter. - -On the 14th November the frontier was crossed, on the 17th Minhla, -on the 23rd Pagan, on the 25th Myingyan were successively occupied. -Except at Minhla, where the fort which still stands on the river-bank -was not taken without a brisk fight, scarcely any resistance was -encountered. And as the flotilla moved up the river, even in Mandalay -the determination to resist began to fail. Just before the expedition -reached Ava the Kinwun Mingyi arrived, and after some negotiation -arranged the unconditional surrender of the capital and of the Royal -Family. On the 26th and 27th November the forts at Ava and Sagaing -were given up, and the troops at Ava laid down their arms. On the -28th the flotilla moored off the town, and General Prendergast -occupied Mandalay. The city and the palace were surrounded, while -Colonel Sladen, with the cool courage which was his best distinction, -entered the palace alone, and remained there for a day and a night, -settling the details of the King's surrender. Next day, in a little -summer-house in the palace garden, King Thebaw gave himself up to the -victorious General, and the dynasty of Alaungpayá ruled no more. After -all, it was a mushroom growth, having held sway for little more than -130 years.[82] The King and his two Queens, with their mother and her -eldest daughter, were driven through the streets of Mandalay in little -bullock-drawn carriages, the only vehicles available. They were placed -on board the steamer _Thooreah_, and conveyed to Rangoon. The flimsy -little summer-house fell into decay, and no longer exists. The tablet -which marks its site, and commemorates the most striking event in its -history, will doubtless remain as long as the British flag flies over -Mandalay. - -The first report of the King's surrender reached Rangoon in a -non-official telegram. By luck or good management we were enabled to -telegraph the tidings simultaneously to the Secretary of State, and to -save his Lordship from the shock of receiving the first intimation of -the fall of Mandalay from his morning paper. Of course, the telegraph -line was interrupted. This message came from Tha-yet-m[)y]o, brought -thither by the King's steamer. - -As the junior officer in the Secretariat, I was told off to board the -_Thooreah_ on her arrival. I was thus the first officer in Rangoon to -see the ex-King and his Queens. King Thebaw was in appearance a Burman -of very ordinary type. He looked neither dissipated nor cruel; nor did -he show any emotion or feeling of his melancholy position. His somewhat -heavy features were unmistakably those of the House of Alaungpayá. -Both he and his elder sister (who died not long ago) closely resembled -the familiar picture of Mindôn Min. Queen Supayá-lat's features were -more finely marked than is usual with Burmese ladies. She bore no -appearance of special depravity, but she certainly looked a little -shrew. The legend of Supayá-lat is that she was a monster of cruelty -and wickedness, and that she was mainly responsible for all acts of -State during her husband's reign. From all that I heard in Mandalay, -where I had many sources of information, for the most part unfriendly -to the ex-Queen, I believe that both her wickedness and her influence -have been much exaggerated. She seems to have been of a jealous -temper, and to have checked any inclination on the part of her husband -to follow the footsteps of Mindôn Min. Doubtless it went hard with any -maid who attracted the King's attention. On one of the golden doors of -the palace used to be shown bloodstains, marks of a little hand, signs -of the tragic end of a Princess who had incurred the Queen's wrath. -(I am aware of the learned explanation of these marks, but the legend -is far more interesting.) Beyond this there is no credible evidence -of her cruelty, nor is it well established that she ruled the State. -Clearly she wielded some influence; but apart from the story of her -speech to the Kinwun Mingyi, the most arrogant action imputed to her -was that she used to have her meals before the King. Of course, this -was very unusual and unseemly for a Burmese woman of any class. It -hardly shows that she was paramount in the direction of the kingdom. -The royal exiles were transferred to the R.I.M.S. _Clive_, and, after -remaining for a few days in Rangoon, were taken to Madras. They were -finally transferred to Ratnagiri in the Bombay Presidency, where -King Thebaw and Supayá-lat still live. The poor little second Queen, -of whom nothing, good or bad, has ever been heard, died last year. -An irresponsible journalist lately suggested that Ratnagiri was an -unsuitable place of abode for these fallen dignitaries. It is one of -the best places that could be chosen. They and their family have been -quite healthy. As they cannot be allowed to return to Burma, they are -likely to be as contented there as elsewhere. Two of the Ministers -and a few retainers were with difficulty persuaded to accompany their -fallen master. The Ministers speedily returned to Mandalay. So did most -of the retainers after one little Chin maid had given some trouble by -running up a tree and declining to come down, because Supayá-lat, whose -temper misfortune may have sharpened, had smacked her. - -The rapidity with which the conquest of the Burmese King was effected -must always be a subject of astonishment. Many times in the previous -wars Burmese soldiers had offered stout resistance, fighting fiercely -behind stockades. That the martial spirit still survived was abundantly -shown afterwards in the years of desultory fighting described in Sir -Charles Crosthwaite's classic history of the pacification of Burma. -The truth is, the central Government was rotten at the core, corrupt -and inefficient and singularly impecunious. The balance found in the -Treasury at Mandalay was about £5,000, not a very large sum to finance -a war. There was no organized Burmese army, with captains versed in the -art of war, capable of meeting in the field disciplined troops under -trained leaders. But the main cause of the downfall of the Burmese -kingdom, with hardly a blow struck in its defence, was no doubt the -speed with which preparations for the advance were made, and the skill, -swiftness, and resolution with which General Prendergast directed the -progress to Mandalay. If a little more time had been allowed to the -Burmese, the ascent would have been more arduous, though not less -effectual. The celerity with which the operations were carried out is -probably paralleled in history only by the advance of the Balkan armies -towards Constantinople. - -While opposition to the main force was feeble and faint-hearted, at the -outset of hostilities reprisals were taken on Englishmen employed in -the forests or on the river. It was, indeed, only by the humanity or -prudence of some local officials that any of these isolated Englishmen -escaped. A Thandawzin[83] was sent to deal with Bombay-Burma men on -the Chindwin. Four of them were barbarously murdered. The murderer -was Thandawzin So Bôn, who disappeared immediately. I sought him -diligently, but in vain, for nearly twenty-five years. If he still -lives, this record of his name may yet bring to him the reward of his -crime. Four other forest men were saved by the intervention of the -Wun[84] of Mingin. - -Upper Burma had long been the refuge of persons who had pressing -reasons for leaving Lower Burma; in fact, as one departmental Report -said, it was a "perfect Arcadia." Not only thieves, robbers, dacoits, -and murderers, but the bailiff who had lost at Komi the proceeds of -Court sales, the Postmaster who was short in his collections, the clerk -who had stolen witnesses' subsistence money, all found an asylum across -the border. Demands for extradition were made, but practically never -with any effect. The Wun of Mingin was among many who felt it necessary -to take measures for their security if, as seemed likely, Upper -Burma came under British rule. Long years ago, this astute man had -been Akunwun[85] of the rich district of Rangoon or Hanthawaddy. One -morning, having packed on elephants the contents of the Treasury, some -lakhs of rupees, he fled with his plunder across the frontier. There, -with his wicked prize, he was a man of importance, obtained office, -and in process of time was placed in charge of Mingin on the Chindwin -River. Partly moved by humanity, for he was as kindly a man as ever -scooped a Treasury, partly, I surmise, because he was shrewd enough -to foresee the downfall of the Burmese Government, he protected the -Bombay-Burma men who fell into his hands, saved them from ill-usage and -death, and made them over to a small British force which early visited -the Chindwin. The Wun's humanity was suitably rewarded. His delinquency -was condoned and he became a M[)y]o-ôk. Though he was believed always -to be tainted with the corrupt habits of Upper Burma, he served us -moderately well. The fact that he had saved the lives of our countrymen -was never forgotten and would have covered many sins. Finally, he died -in his bed, up to the day of his death in receipt of a pension from -Government. I knew very well both him and his wife, who had accompanied -him in his flight from Rangoon. Naturally, we did not in plain words -discuss that incident. But reference to early days was sometimes -made, and the old lady admitted that the Wun had been frivolous and -light-hearted in his youth. When I knew him, he was grave and reverend. -This is not the only instance in which persons guilty of past offences -in Lower Burma purged their guilt by good service in troubled times and -were received back into Government employ. I found it convenient to -keep in mind their histories. - -Another case of the cruel treatment of Europeans was the seizure -of a Flotilla steamer at Moda, between Mandalay and Bhamo, and the -imprisonment and ill-treatment of crew and officers. Daily was Captain -Redman led out as if to execution. He, too, escaped by some friendly -intervention, or the hesitation of his captors to proceed to the last -extremity. He was, however, very badly used. The two local officers -responsible for these barbarities were brought down to Mandalay, fined -and imprisoned, and publicly whipped by the Chief Commissioner's order. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -EARLY DAYS AT MANDALAY - - -As speedily as possible, Mr. Bernard went up to Mandalay, leaving -Lower Burma practically under the administration of the Secretary, Mr. -Symes. He went up in the old R.I.M.S. _Irrawaddy_, embarking at Prome. -With him were a few civil and police officers, destined with those -who had accompanied the expedition to form the nucleus of the Civil -Administration. Colonel T. Lowndes,[86] Inspector-General of Police, -Captain C. H. E. Adamson,[87] of the Commission, Mr. G. M. S. Carter, -and Mr. M. J. Chisholm, of the Police, were on board, and I had the -luck to go as Junior Secretary. We landed at Minhla and inspected the -fort, now garrisoned by Bengal Infantry, and the scene of the fight; -at Myingyan, where we saw marks of our cannonade; at Pakôkku, where -the Chief Commissioner was received by the M[)y]othugyi-gadaw,[88] a -lady of large bulk, of high spirit, and of cheerful humour, who was -administering the town and district in the name of her son. The -old lady was extremely affable, and professed loyalty to the new -Government. To the best of her ability, I believe she carried out her -engagement. Her position was quite in accordance with the practice in -Burma, where, as already stated, women take a prominent part in public -affairs. She survived for some years, and was always our good friend. - -On the 15th of December, 1885, Mr. Bernard arrived at Mandalay, and, -with his staff, took up his quarters in the Palace where Sir Harry -Prendergast and his officers were already installed. Mr. Bernard -occupied a set of rooms behind the Eastern Audience Hall. Colonel -Lowndes and I shook down in some good masonry buildings hard by, which -had been used as waiting-rooms by the Ministers coming to transact -business with the King. My abode was immediately under the wooden -tower in the south-east corner of the palace, whence Queen Supayá-lat -is said, the legend is apocryphal, to have viewed the march of the -British force from the shore to the city. Behind me was the shed of -the White Elephant, which had died a few days after the occupation, -feeling, no doubt, that his use was at an end. Opposite, fronted by -a pillared terrace, in the midst of which played a fountain, was -a charming pavilion faced with white stucco, of modern design and -construction, used by the King as a morning-room. Mr. Bernard adopted -it for the same purpose. We were all most kindly made honorary members -of the Headquarter Mess, established in spacious rooms adjacent to the -Royal Theatre. There, with the chief military officers, we dined every -night, and often played a quiet rubber. For breakfast and luncheon, -during his stay in Mandalay, Mr. Bernard kept open house for his staff. -Mr. Bernard's breakfasts were refreshing interludes in the busy round -of official work. Round that hospitable board often sat welcome guests, -visitors of distinction, officers passing through Mandalay bringing a -breath of the old world to our new heritage. From time to time every -member of the Viceroy's Council came to see the latest kingdom added to -the Empire. Perhaps the visitor who made the deepest impression was Sir -George Chesney, Military Member of Council, a man of wide culture and -literary distinction, moving on a higher plane than the ordinary Indian -official. (No offence to the ordinary official, honest man, whose stock -of late years has unjustly depreciated.) Sir George Chesney seemed -to have a wider range, a more extensive outlook; his premature death -deprived the world of a statesman. In very early days came to Mandalay, -as the Chief Commissioner's guests, some charming Americans, among -them a lady of exceptional grace and beauty. Warned by secretaries -and aides-de-camp that she could not possibly go to Mandalay, where -conditions of war still obtained, she is said to have gone pouting to -the great Lord Sahib, by whom she was assured that she should certainly -go, and that her path should be strewn with roses. 'Twere churlish not -to believe this pretty story. My impression is that the men of the -party tried to buy the Palace as it stood, and succeeded in acquiring -a gilded sentry-box. I may wrong them. - -Most strange and almost incredible it seemed to range at will the -halls and corridors, where hardly a fortnight before the Lord of many -White Elephants had kept his State. The Palace was in exactly the -same condition as when occupied by the Burmese Court. As a Burman -official said, in another place, the scene was the same, the actors -only were changed. Barbarous Byzantine mirrors of colossal size still -lined the walls; a motley heap of modern toys, French clocks and -fans, mechanical singing birds, and the like, mingled with lovely -specimens of Burmese carving, gold and silver and lacquered trays and -boxes, forming a heterogeneous collection characteristic of degenerate -taste. Rooms so lately tenanted by King, Queens, and their butterfly -attendants, aglow with light and colour, were now occupied as sober -offices and quarters. Khaki uniforms, boots, and the ringing of spurs -replaced gay pasos and tameins and soft pattering of naked feet. The -Palace, it must be confessed, was a mass of somewhat tawdry buildings, -mostly of wood and of no great antiquity, desecrated by corrugated -iron roofs, yet of interest as a unique specimen of Burmese domestic -architecture. Perhaps the most striking features were the great halls -of audience, supported by mighty pillars of teak, red and golden, the -several Royal thrones often described, and the P[)y]athat, the graceful -terraced spire surmounting the eastern throne-room, which travellers -have been taught to call the Centre of the Universe. The title was -invented by an enterprising journalist, but will, no doubt, always be -cited as a mark of Burmese arrogance. Besides the rooms reserved for -the King, then occupied by Sir Harry Prendergast, the Palace afforded -accommodation for the Queens and for Ambassadors, attendants, pages, -maids of honour, and the usual entourage of an Eastern Court. For some -years the Palace continued to be inhabited. The King's audience-hall -was used as a church; the corresponding hall on the west, the Queen's, -as a club house. A few of the buildings on the Palace platform were of -masonry work, built for the King by some of the foreigners who swarmed -at the Burmese Court. Like the famous A-tu-ma-shi[89] monastery, these -made no pretence of being in Burmese style, and were grievous to the -æsthetic eye. In the Palace enclosure was the Council Chamber where the -Hlutdaw[90] deliberated. Opposite was a model of the Kyaung,[91] where -King Thebaw spent his novitiate. This also was for some time used as -a church. All round the Palace were charming gardens, intersected by -watercourses, with many a grotto and pavilion, where gay young Princes -and Princesses, pages and maids of honour, idled away the pleasant -hours. Girdling and protecting the Palace and its precincts was an -inner wall of masonry, and round this again a palisade of stout teak -logs. The main gates of the palace corresponded with those of the city. -Just within the eastern gate stood a white tower, the Bohozin, whereon -was a mighty drum, the Bohozi, struck by hereditary beaters to record -the hour and to assure the world that the King was in his palace. -After the occupation, the beaters fled. We were gravely warned that -the silence of the Bohozi would be interpreted as a sign that anarchy -prevailed and that there was no Government. The beaters were sought -out and reinstated. As soon as the periodical sound of the drum was -heard once more, we were solemnly advised that this would never do. The -beating of the Bohozi indicated that the _Burmese_ Government still -existed, and that we were merely temporary sojourners. So the beaters -were retired on suitable terms, and the Bohozi was sent to the Phayre -Museum. I need hardly say that it did not matter a brass farthing -whether the drum was beaten or not. - -The Palace stood in the middle of what we came to call the city. -Built on somewhat high ground about three miles from the shore, the -city (myo) was a perfect square, surrounded by a rampart of earth, -battlemented walls, and a moat on which water-lilies floated in lovely -profusion. Each face of the walls measured one mile and a quarter. -Between the walls and the moat was a stretch of turf, as if expressly -provided for a morning gallop, but somewhat spoilt by sudden holes. -Five great gates, two on the west, one on each other side, opened -through the wall, each approached by a bridge over the moat. At every -gate was a red wooden pillar, with an inscription recording the date -and circumstances of its erection. Stories, which we need not believe, -are told of the burial of living victims beneath these pillars. Within -the city walls, all round the palace, the space was closely packed -with Burmese houses. Here were the dwellings of Ministers and other -high officers, each surrounded by an ample compound (win) where lived -a whole village of relations and retainers. Here also were the humbler -dwellings of minor officials, soldiers, and the miscellaneous rabble -collected about an Eastern Court. - -Now all is changed. The Palace remains a melancholy memento of Burmese -sovereignty. The halls are tenantless, and the footstep of the -infrequent visitor rings hollow on its floors. A fragment of the teak -stockade is preserved. The rest is replaced by a neat post and rail -fence. All the native houses have disappeared. The space within the -walls is occupied by barracks, mess-houses, dwellings, polo-ground, and -the like. The last Burmese house, now removed, was that of the Kinwun -Mingyi. - -[Illustration: THE CITY WALL, MANDALAY.] - -The town, as distinguished from the city, extended to the river on the -west and to Amarapura on the south, peopled mostly by non-officials -living in wooden houses and bamboo huts, with here and there a white -masonry building, the dwelling of an Indian trader. In the midst was -the great bazaar, the Zegyo. An embankment protected the low-lying land -from the river in flood. Through the town crept the Shwe-ta-chaung, a -malodorous stream, on whose banks still stood the old British Residency -in a grove of tamarind-trees. While in the city the roads were straight -and hard, the streets of the town were unmetalled, alternately dust -and mud. The first work undertaken by the army of occupation was the -construction of four roads to the shore. With military simplicity, but -perhaps with some want of imagination, these were called A, B, C, and -D Roads, names which still cling to them. To the south was the Yakaing -Paya, commonly called the Arakan Pagoda, the shrine of the great image -of Gaudama Buddha, brought across the hills from Arakan. Second only in -interest to the Shwe Dagôn Pagoda, it attracted throngs of pilgrims. -In one of the courtyards reclined battered bronze statues of magic -virtue. If you had a pain, you rubbed the correspondent part of one of -these statues, and obtained relief. In a neighbouring pond were sacred -turtles, who came at call to be fed. - -East of the city rose the Shan Hills, with the little hill of -Yankintaung[92] alone in the middle distance. The evening glow -reflected on the Eastern Hills misled the unobservant to rhapsodize on -the beautiful effect of the sun setting behind Yankintaung. North stood -Mandalay Hill, a cool and pleasant height, ascended by stone steps or -by a winding bridle-path; near its pagoda-covered summit towered a -stately upright statue of the Buddha, his right arm extended towards -the city, as it were the palladium of the capital. At the foot lay -the A-tu-ma-shi (the Incomparable Monastery), a large white masonry -structure of modern design, built by an Italian. Here sat another -colossal image of the Buddha, in whose forehead sparkled a diamond of -unequalled size and lustre.[93] Hard by stood the Ku-tho-daw Paya,[94] -surrounded by a multitude of small shrines covering alabaster slabs, on -which was inscribed the Law of the Buddha. This pious work commemorated -its founder, the Einshemin, Mindôn Min's brother, who lost his life -in the rebellion of the Myingun Mintha in 1867. Gone now are the -Incomparable Monastery and the statue on the hill, both accidentally -destroyed by fire some years later. - -In December, 1885, the situation in Mandalay, and, indeed, in Upper -Burma generally, was very curious. Sir Harry Prendergast was in supreme -military command. Colonel Sladen was the chief civil authority. The -future of Upper Burma was still under discussion between the Chief -Commissioner, the Government of India, and the Secretary of State -(Lord Randolph Churchill). It might be decided to annex the country, -or it might be thought better to set up a new King, and to make Upper -Burma a protected State. Pending the decision, an attempt was made -provisionally to carry on the Government on the same lines as before -the occupation. Although the King of Burma was an absolute, not a -constitutional, monarch, there was a Council of State (the Hlutdaw), an -advisory and executive body with no legislative powers. It consisted -of the Wungyis, or Mingyis, the four highest officers of State; -four Atwin Wuns, high officers of the Palace; and four Wundauks, -props or assistants of the Wungyis. Under their orders was a crowd of -secretaries or clerks (Sayedawgyi). The country was governed by Wuns, -each of whom administered a local area, and received orders from the -Hlutdaw collectively, or from individual members thereof. Mandalay was -in charge of two Myowuns (town magistrates), the Myowun U Pe Si,[95] -and the Shwehlan Myowun. Temporarily, the Hlutdaw was maintained in -its powers and functions, the place of the King being taken by Colonel -Sladen. There was one important innovation. Over all was the Chief -Commissioner. The Hlutdaw issued a proclamation to all Wuns and local -officers, directing them to carry on their duties as before under -the command of the Central Government. British officers in charge of -districts Captain Eyre at Pagan, Mr. Robert Phayre at Minhla, Mr. -Collins at Myingyan, Mr. Fleming at Shwebo were not subordinated to the -control of the Hlutdaw. Mandalay also was removed from their control. -At first Mr. Fforde[96] as District Superintendent of Police, then -Captain Adamson as Deputy Commissioner, with Mr. Fforde as his chief -aid, were in charge. These officers received most valuable help from -U Pe Si, who threw in his lot with the new Government, and served it -loyally and well for the rest of his life. U Pe Si was one of the most -interesting characters of the annexation period. Of an established -official family, his grandfather having been one of the signatories of -the Treaty of Yandabo in 1826, he was a man of courage and resource, -well fitted to be the colleague of British officers. His knowledge -of Mandalay and the surrounding district was intimate and extensive. -His mind was acute and his judgment sound. At sixty, so old and frail -in appearance that he was once introduced to a high officer as "the -Yenangyaung Mingyi over ninety years of age," that fragile frame was -informed with dauntless will and resolution. He maintained the closest -relations with a succession of Deputy Commissioners and Commissioners -of Mandalay. His practice was to drop in to breakfast and consume vast -quantities of jam, to the detriment of his poor digestion, as an aid to -the delivery of wise discourse on men and things. Without him the task -of governing Mandalay, difficult at the best, would have been still -more arduous. - -Our early sway was of a patriarchal type. The theory that the penalty -should be made to fit the offence was adopted by an ingenious -magistrate who knew his Burman. An instance recurs to me worthy of -Shahpesh, the Persian. Some gamblers were brought up for judgment. - -"So you like cards. Will you play a game with me?" said the magistrate -genially. "Please draw three cards." - -Two aces and a two were shown. - -"What a lucky man! Take four stripes." - -The next man drew two kings and a five. - -"Your luck is not so good. Receive twenty-five stripes." - -And so on, to the delight of the public, and, we may hope, of the -players. Another accused in the same case, hung about with cards and -dice and other instruments of gaming, was paraded through the streets -with his face to the tail of the pony on which he sat. - -Colonel Sladen had the royal temperament, and was prepared to set right -all the wrongs done by his predecessor. In pursuance of this policy he -restored to the Yenangyaung Mingyi and the Pintha Mintha respectively -all their property which had been confiscated by the King. As soon -as these orders came to his notice, Mr. Bernard imperatively forbade -any further similar restitutions, rightly holding it impossible to -investigate the acts of the Burmese Government in exercise of its -sovereign powers. The Yenangyaung Mingyi, then verging on ninety, -was a valued Minister of King Mindôn, and had been wounded in the -Myingun Prince's rebellion. On that occasion, as I heard from the lips -of an eyewitness, King Mindôn was attacked by his disloyal son in a -summer palace near Mandalay Hill, and escaped borne on the back of -a faithful attendant. The Mingyi had fallen into disgrace with King -Thebaw, doubtless because he was father of the Kyimyin Mipaya,[97] -one of Mindôn Min's lesser wives, who had borne the King a son, the -Pyinmana Mintha.[98] In the massacre of 1879 this child's life was -spared, probably on account of his extreme youth; but he and his mother -and her family all remained objects of suspicion, and were kept in -confinement by the Burmese Government. Soon after our arrival the boy -was discovered, and sent to India and educated at an English school. -After 1905 he returned to Burma and settled in Rangoon, where he still -lives on excellent terms with our officers. Restored to favour and -fortune, the Mingyi often came to see me, walking sturdily in spite of -his years, and usually accompanied by two small sons of about eight -or nine. The Pintha Mintha was the brother of Yanaung Maung Tôk,[99] -already mentioned as the roystering companion of King Thebaw. These two -titular Princes were sons of another Yenangyaung Mingyi, of romantic -history. Sprung from humble stock, as a small boy he attracted the -notice of a Princess. She adopted and educated him, and made him one -of the royal pages. Conspicuous for grace and courtesy of manner, -and, probably also for ability, he went on from rank to rank till he -became successively Atwin Wun, and, on his death-bed, Mingyi. Though -not of royal blood, his sons were given the title of Mintha, as it -might be Prince Bismarck or Prince von Bülow. Yanaung Maung Tôk had -the repute of being a blustering, truculent ruffian. If that was so, -Pintha Maung Byaung alone inherited his father's gracious qualities. I -knew him well. A pleasanter, more courteous, more polished gentleman -could not be found. His wife, who, I regret to say, died last year, -was of a good official family, and a lady of exceptional charm. Their -sons are doing well in Government service. Their daughters, delightful -young girls in their early teens, glittering with diamonds and rubies, -created a sensation at the celebration of Queen Victoria's Jubilee in -1887. All three married well, but only one survives, the happy wife of -a very distinguished Burmese officer. - -It was natural that for some time after the occupation there should -be much confusion. But at the very outset means might have been taken -for the preservation of the State Records; instead of which, in the -time-honoured phrase, soldiers were allowed to play havoc with these -documents; many of them were burnt, many more were torn and spoilt. -The loss was irreparable. Immediately after the Chief Commissioner's -arrival further destruction was stopped, and the surviving records were -collected and deposited in the Council Chamber. Much of interest was -thus preserved, but many State papers of priceless value, historically -and administratively, were irretrievably lost. - -The Burmese of Mandalay did not in the least recognize that they -had been conquered. They were as free and easy and unconcerned and -bumptious as if the King was still seated on the throne. The first -task set me in Mandalay, the day after our arrival, was to find a -Mohammedan doctor who was believed to have arrived lately from Bhamo. -This was literally all the direction or clue given to aid me in a -search among nearly 200,000 strange people. Not even the man's name was -known. Colonel Sladen kindly placed at my disposal a small Burmese -official, and as we rode out of the South Gate my companion was hailed -by a friend and asked where he was going with the young barbarian -(kala). My Burmese was fluent and vigorous. However, though I liked -not the manners of his friend, my man was an intelligent, willing -fellow, and before the winter sun had set we found and brought back the -object of our mission. Later on, when much distress had been caused -by fires, incendiary and accidental, the Burmans of Mandalay grew -rather sulky. But nothing cured them of their _insouciance_. When fires -were destroying their dwellings, they looked on quite calmly without -offering to lend a hand, while British officers took extreme risks to -save life and property in burning houses. - -"There is a very valuable box in that house" (in a blaze). "Would -you mind bringing it out for me?" I heard a Burman say to a British -officer, who complied with the cool request. - -At this time we were almost completely cut off from Lower Burma and -Rangoon. The telegraph line was interrupted, while letters came slowly -by steamer once a week. Postal arrangements were necessarily of a -primitive kind. The post-office was a flat, or barge, high and dry -on the river-bank. When a steamer came from Rangoon, the mail-bags -were opened and their contents cast on the deck of the flat. We who -had hastened down on hearing of the steamer's approach were allowed, -even invited, to search the pile and take what belonged to us. In -spite of this apparently hazardous procedure, I heard of no letters -going astray. I quarrelled quite seriously with a high officer of the -post-office because I said in his hearing, incautiously and, I confess, -unjustly, that I was sending letters to Rangoon by messenger rather -than trust them to the post. For some months, if not years, we were -unfriends; but I am glad to say that, in the course of time, we were -reconciled. - -[Illustration: ROW OF BUDDHAS.] - -[Illustration: RELEASING A TURTLE; A WORK OF MERIT.] - -I was soon taken from Secretariat work and sent as civil officer with a -column. A detachment of Madras Cavalry without support had been sent to -repair the telegraph line between Ava and Myingyan. They had met with -resistance and been forced to return. The task was then entrusted to an -adequate force. Two guns, British infantry, Madras Cavalry, and Madras -Pioneers were placed under the command of Major Fenwick, I.S.C. Captain -R. A. P. Clements[100] was staff officer; Mr. H. d'U. Keary[101] and -Mr. Rainey[102] were of our party. At Ava, where we halted before -starting on our march, Maung Hlwa, the local Wun, came in and made his -submission, among the first-fruits of Burmese loyalty in that part of -the country. Maung Hlwa, I am glad to say, still survives and draws -his pension. He was an official of the good old Upper Burman type. Not -over-educated, without very delicate scruples, of proved courage, with -boundless personal influence (awza), wherever he was sent he was a -loyal and useful servant of Government. No better man than he to bring -a troublesome township into order. He was one of the Burmese officers -who went to the Coronation Durbar at Delhi in 1903, where he was deeply -impressed by the pomp and splendour of the occasion. On this march he -was of the utmost service, though I am not quite sure that he did not -take advantage of the opportunity to pay off some old scores. So quiet -seemed the country and so little did we expect attack that I used to -ride for miles along the river-bank and through the jungle at Ava with -no other companion but Maung Hlwa. Yet within a month, at Sagaing on -the opposite bank, four officers were attacked within sight of the -Government steamer _Irrawaddy_, and three of their number slain by -dacoits who issued from ambush, cut down their victims, and disappeared -before the rest of the party, walking not a couple of hundred yards -behind, were aware of what had happened. The fall of Mandalay had been -so sudden that it had not yet been realized in rural places, and the -forces of opposition had not yet been organized. Very soon the turmoil -began. It was then long before officers were able to travel without -escort in Upper Burma. - -This was one of the first daurs, or small expeditions, undertaken. -Keeping close to the telegraph line which it was our primary duty to -restore to working order, we marched through the midst of the Ava -subdivision. In fine open country we rode daily over sessamum fields -or through tall growths of millet, making our first acquaintance with -the land where so much of our lives was to be spent. The climate was -cool and pleasant, so that we were able to march far into the morning. -At the village where the cavalry had been routed we were so hospitably -received that, to the best of my recollection, no punishment for past -misdeeds was inflicted. We were particularly touched to find here two -Madrasi sayces,[103] cavalry followers who had been missing since the -engagement, and who had, in fact, been wounded and disabled. They had -been plastered and nursed by the villagers, and were restored to us -none the worse for their adventure. Not much farther on we found a -crucified man falling to pieces after long exposure to sun and wind. I -believe it was customary to kill the victim before affixing his body to -a St. Andrew's cross. In early days, after a successful skirmish with -dacoits, a Burman assistant approached the civil officer, saying as a -matter of course: "I suppose it is time now to crucify the prisoners!" -Incidents like these illustrate the charming inconsistency of the -Burmese character already noted. - -Later on in our march we were resisted at two villages and had two -little fights without, I think, any casualties on our side. After -all the people had been cleared out, the first village was burnt for -reasons of military necessity. Rightly enough, the burning of villages -has always been discouraged, indeed, strictly forbidden, save as an -extreme measure or for military reasons. But, when occasion arises, it -is very interesting to put a match to a thatched roof and see it blaze -to the sky. The second village had to be shelled. Clements and I, -who had ridden round to examine one of the farther approaches, found -ourselves in the unpleasant position of being shelled by our own side. -There I saw an instance of the stoical resolution with which Burmans -meet death. A man torn to pieces by a shell asked only for an umbrella -to shield him from the sun and a cheroot to smoke while he awaited the -end. Both were supplied while our surgeon afforded such relief as might -be. Here is another inconsistency. By a shout and the explosion of a -cracker, a band of dacoits[104] will put to flight all the men of a -village, who stampede, leaving the women and children at the mercy of -the assailants. Dacoits themselves go to work with trembling knees and -hearts of water, ready to fly at the first sign of resistance. Yet men -of the same race and class face a firing party with a smile or walk to -the gallows with unfaltering step. Once, at a military execution, some -half a dozen dacoits were put up, one by one, against the city wall to -be shot. The first man had the top of his head blown off by the volley. -His companions awaiting their turn burst into a laugh at his grotesque -appearance. - -A day or two after Christmas we halted at M[)y]otha in the middle of the -Ava subdivision and there held the first gymkhana in the jungle of -Upper Burma. Pony races and other sporting events for officers and men -and for local Burmans made up the programme. It was a characteristic -episode. The people of M[)y]otha were very friendly and joined with -enthusiasm in the proceedings. Here I confirmed in his office the -M[)y]othugyi.[105] I am told that he still holds the appointment. After -leaving M[)y]otha, we had our third and last encounter with dacoits. -Captain Clements and Mr. Rainey took a few sowárs[106] to escort a -telegraph working-party a few miles from our camp. So unexciting -seemed the prospect that the rest of us stayed behind. Some of us -walked unattended to a neighbouring village and sat for a long time -talking with the headman and his people. The working-party and the -escort were met by a hostile line of Burmans armed with muskets. -Followed by the sowárs, the officers charged and routed the enemy, -but Clements fell with two holes in his chest. No wonder the surgeon -looked grave. A bullet in each lung, God shield us, is a most dreadful -thing. However, a fortnight afterwards I found Clements quite active -at mess at Tha-yet-m[)y]o. I infer that his pony swerved at the volley -and that the two holes were made by the same bullet. In Burma Clements -got another wound and two brevets. He served with great distinction -in South Africa, and after passing through many campaigns was cut off -by appendicitis at Quetta in the midst of a brilliant career. A fine -officer, a perfect horseman, with a frame of iron, even in youth he -gave promise of future eminence. - -Another unfortunate incident was an outbreak of cholera in our camp, -which brought us to a halt for some days and cost valuable lives. -A stalwart young sergeant of gunners was specially regretted. A -halt on account of cholera is one of the most gloomy and depressing -experiences, particularly for the men. It was with somewhat chastened -feelings that we marched into Myingyan. Our one consolation was that -we had accomplished our purpose and reopened telegraphic communication -with Rangoon. - -Meanwhile the Kinwun Mingyi, who had gone with the ex-King, had -returned to Mandalay, and the Taingda Mingyi, the evil genius of the -dynasty, had been sent to Hazaribagh. Mr. Bernard was convinced of -the Taingda Mingyi's active disloyalty. It was notorious that, in the -King's time, he fomented disorder and shared the spoils of dacoity. -There were reasonable grounds for believing that he continued these -practices and that his power was exerted against the Government. To -retain this man in a leading position on Colonel Sladen's Council, or -even to allow him to stay in Burma, deprived of office, in a private -station, was fraught with grave risk. In Mandalay his influence was -supreme. His speedy removal without previous warning seemed clearly -desirable. This was dramatically effected. As the Mingyi sat in the -midst of the Hlutdaw, Mr. Pilcher entered and summoned him to the Chief -Commissioner's presence. Arriving there, he was told that he was to be -sent to India. His request for permission to go to his house before -leaving was refused. Seated with Mr. Pilcher in a bullock-carriage, he -was driven to the shore. As he passed out of the West, the Traitors', -Gate, there was a block, and the carriage halted. "Is this where you -are going to kill me?" asked the old man. Under the provisions of -the beneficent Regulation III. of 1818, the Mingyi was detained for -several years. Long after the country had been at peace, he was allowed -to return and end his days in Burma in receipt of an allowance from -Government. He was a man of much force of character, comparatively -uneducated, and, unless his face and common fame belied him, of harsh -and cruel nature. That protruding under-lip and that glance, stern even -in old age, were signs of a fiery and turbulent soul. After his return -he did no harm, and, having lost his wealth in foolish speculations, -he died a poor man. I helped to get a small pension for his widow, an -innocent old lady, who was, I believe, sincerely grateful. The pension -was granted as an act of grace, not out of respect for the Mingyi's -memory. - -About this time I went on one more little daur, perhaps hardly worth -mentioning. Dacoits were entrenched in the Kaung-hmu-daw Pagoda, -not very far from Sagaing. A column, with Colonel Lowndes as civil -officer, was sent against them. Another column, which I accompanied, -started at the same time and went up the river. We were to hold a -defile in the hills and cut off the retreat of the dacoits dislodged -from Kaung-hmu-daw. The arrival of the main body at Sagaing was marked -by the lamentable incident already narrated.[107] Next morning, -as arranged, the pagoda was attacked and the defenders driven out. -The rest of the plan miscarried. Our intelligence was grievously at -fault. The only pass in the hills, we found, ran from east to west. -Through it we marched at the mercy of any hostile force which might be -crowning the heights. Emerging scathless from this gorge, as no one -took advantage of so fair a chance, we reached a wide champaign over -which an army corps might have scattered without coming near us. That -Sunday morning we had a pleasant picnic on a breezy down, and towards -nightfall we marched back, having seen no one worse than ourselves. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -LORD DUFFERIN'S VISIT: MANDALAY ONCE MORE - - -Early in 1886 Mr. Bernard returned to Rangoon. As I was not in Lower -Burma for any length of time from December, 1885, to March, 1887, it -does not fall within the scope of this book to attempt a description -of events in that part of the Province in the months following -the occupation of Mandalay. It was a time of stress and anxiety. -Insurrections, excited no doubt by emissaries from the Burmese Court -and headed in more than one case by monks, broke out all over the -country. For a time Lower Burma was a seething mass of disorder. With -inadequate military and police forces, Commissioners and district -officers bravely faced the situation, and by strenuous efforts -suppressed rebellion and gradually restored peace. In the early months, -in the Chief Commissioner's absence from Rangoon, the general direction -of operations was in the hands of Mr. Symes, then an officer of ten -years' service. With what nerve, resolution, and judgment he discharged -this great responsibility only those who served in Lower Burma at that -time can properly appreciate. No one could have done better and more -valuable work in a very serious crisis. Those early months showed Mr. -Symes to be an administrator of the highest class, and won for him the -reputation which he enjoyed to the day of his lamented death. - -At the beginning of 1886 Lord Dufferin came to study on the spot the -problem of Upper Burma and practically to decide its destiny. At -the same time came Sir Frederick Roberts, then Commander-in-Chief -in India. With the Viceroy were Mr. Durand,[108] Foreign Secretary; -Mr. Mackenzie,[109] Home Secretary; Mr. Mackenzie Wallace,[110] -Private Secretary; and Lord William Beresford, Military Secretary, -a galaxy of talent. Lord Clandeboye, afterwards Earl of Ava, in the -flower of his youth and beauty, was among the aides-de-camp. Sir -Frederick Roberts's staff was hardly less brilliant. It included -Major W. G. Nicholson,[111] Major Ian Hamilton,[112] Captain Neville -Chamberlain,[113] and Colonel Pole-Carew.[114] Besides being the -best-known man of his time in India, Beresford was probably the best -Military Secretary in history. He was thoroughly conversant with every -detail of his office. Equally at home in the direction of a Durbar or -the management of a social gathering, with singular charm of manner, -he had the delightful gift of being all things to all men. At a garden -party he might be seen in close converse with a pillar of the Church, -or hanging on the lips of an American Missionary, as if this idyllic -communion was the one thing for which he lived. After this visit, the -Bishop of Rangoon confided his opinion to a friend: "I am glad to -see that the tone of the Viceregal Court is so good. Do you know? I -think this high standard is in a great measure due to the influence of -Beresford." In Rangoon the usual festivities were held. At a ball I -was deputed to interpret between His Excellency and Burmese ladies and -gentlemen. Lord Dufferin's embroidered compliments, addressed to some -fair ladies, severely taxed my homespun vernacular. - -After a short stay in Rangoon Lord Dufferin and Sir Frederick Roberts -went up to Mandalay in the steamer _Mindoon_, fitted out and placed -at the Viceroy's disposal by the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company. Stopping -at various places on the way, the Viceroy made the acquaintance of -the local military and civil officers. The visit to Mandalay was an -unqualified success. Their Excellencies, for Lady Dufferin lent her -gracious presence to the occasion, were welcomed by the military and -civil officers and all the Burmese notables. They were installed in -the finest rooms in the Palace, visited all scenes of interest in the -town and city, and received the members of the royal house and the most -eminent Burmese officers and their families. On the eastern terrace of -the Palace the Viceroy held a levée, the first and only instance of -that ceremony being held in the Nandaw.[115] Just before his departure, -in a mandat[116] erected on the shore, he addressed a meeting of -Burmese Ministers and high officials. His speech was interpreted by an -Extra Assistant Commissioner, Maung Pyi. Failing to catch one sentence, -the interpreter vainly tried to induce his Excellency to repeat it. -Nothing daunted, Maung Pyi, with perfect assurance, evolved and uttered -an elaborate sentence of his own. The incident passed unnoticed. Lord -Dufferin's name will always be associated with Upper Burma. From Ava -he took one of his titles, and he acceded to the request that the -cantonment of Mandalay, embracing the city as well as an area without -the walls, should bear his name. - -On the voyage and after his arrival in Mandalay the Viceroy and his -advisers conferred with Mr. Bernard concerning the future of the newly -acquired dominion. With the sanction of the Secretary of State, his -Excellency, at a dinner given on the eve of his departure, announced -the decision that the country was to be administered as part of -British India. It was on this occasion, and by Mr. Bernard, that the -familiar term "annexation" was first publicly used. Then, having -accomplished the purpose of his visit, the Viceroy re-embarked for -Prome. Just opposite Pagan, whereat the state of the district did not -invite a landing, the _Mindoon_ stuck fast on a sandbank for nearly -twelve hours, a really characteristic incident on the Irrawaddy. Lord -Dufferin was not in the least disconcerted or annoyed; he professed to -be pleased to have one day's entire rest. Towards evening the whole -party were on the point of being transferred to some small craft in -attendance, but luckily the steamer floated off in time, and this -inconvenience was avoided. The return to Rangoon was saddened by the -tidings of the death of Mr. H. L. St. Barbe, one of the most rising men -in the Province, whose very remarkable personality gave every promise -of distinction.[117] He was killed in the Bassein District, one of the -first victims of the dacoit bands which harassed Lower Burma for three -or four years. - -By their charm and courtesy Lord and Lady Dufferin won all hearts, -and left the happiest impression on the people of the Province. Still -a junior officer, naturally I was not brought into close or frequent -contact with them; but on the voyage to and from Mandalay I was near -enough to come under the spell. Lord Dufferin was no doubt an admirable -Viceroy. His dignity and presence, as well as his brilliant gifts, -were specially fitted to adorn that illustrious office. He did not -condescend to detail or profess to be industrious in small things. -Industry, it has been said, is the tribute which mediocrity pays to -genius. Often, I have heard, it was difficult to induce him to attend -to matters of routine. But a really important case inspired him with -enthusiasm, and on it he shed the rays of an illuminating mind; to its -polished completion he devoted infinite pains. His visit in the early -years of his Viceroyalty was greatly to the benefit of the Province. -During the rest of his life in India his warm and friendly interest in -Burma never failed. - -The annexation of Upper Burma has been criticized not only by those -who regard with disapproval every extension of the Empire. A very -distinguished officer, whose best years had been passed in Burma, and -who was familiar with both parts of the Province, suggested to me as -one grave objection that the annexation extinguished a nationality, a -thing which had not before been done in India. I have no doubt that, -especially from the point of view of the good of the Burmese race, -the annexation was an unmixed advantage. So far from extinguishing a -nationality, we reintegrated it. Up to 1885 Burma was in a state of -disunion. Part flourished under British rule; part languished under -native tyranny. Some Burmans were British subjects; some served their -own King. The conquest of Upper Burma reunited the severed fragments. -Once more Burma became a solid country, the Burmese a nation under one -undivided control; and as such it began a career of almost unexampled -prosperity. Although there are differences and distinctions between -the two sections, due to the varied course of their past history, -Burma now forms one Province, and every part shares in the fortunes -of the whole. The annexation did far more than this. It restored -peace and order to a distracted people, and secured to every man the -free enjoyment of the fruits of his labours. To all men were given the -protection of equal laws and the assurance of even-handed justice. The -grasping avarice of officials was restrained, and corrupt practices -were discountenanced. Burmans are not excluded from a due share in -the administration. To aspiring youths, promising careers have been -thrown open. The second Burman as yet enlisted in the higher branch -of the Accounts Department is an Upper Burman, the first to take the -degree of Bachelor of Arts. On those Burmans who loyally accepted the -new Government, office and honours were freely bestowed. The Kinwun -Mingyi became a Companion of the Star of India, U Pe Si of the Indian -Empire. The real patriots were those who recognized that the new order -meant peace and prosperity, with no suppression of native religion or -customs, and who risked obloquy, and often life and property, in loyal -service to the State. These were truer friends of their people than men -who, by ineffectual revolt and resistance, plunged their country for -years into bloodshed and misery. - -In March, 1886, Sir Charles Bernard returned to Mandalay. On April -1 the provisional administration of the Hlutdaw came to an end. Sir -Edward Sladen retired, and the Chief Commissioner assumed direct -control of Upper Burma. At the same time the Burma Field Force was -broken up, Sir Harry Prendergast returned to India, and Sir George -White took command of the troops. While retaining general control -of the whole Province, Sir Charles Bernard left Lower Burma under -the immediate direction of Mr. G. J. S. Hodgkinson[118] as Special -Commissioner, devoting his own energies mainly to the settlement of -the new Province and the modelling of its administration. An entirely -separate Secretariat was formed, of which, as Secretary for Upper -Burma, I was in sole charge. My office was in the Hlutdaw building, -within the Palace enclosure. We had our own little printing-press, -modestly but efficiently equipped by Mr. Regan, and we published -our own _Gazette_. My only qualified assistant was Mr. Taw Sein -Ko,[119] then in his early youth, to whom I am indebted for invaluable -assistance during those busy months as well as in later years. Of the -clerical staff, the less said the better. It was, perhaps, a unique -Secretariat, with no records of previous years and no precedents. -Whatever the Secretary might forget, the Chief Commissioner remembered. -Besides myself, the only member of Sir Charles Bernard's immediate -staff was the Personal Assistant. This office was filled first by -Andrew Thomson, C.S., a man of brilliant ability and exceptional gifts. -Later came Sir Charles Bernard's elder son, J. H. Bernard, C.S., -endowed with many of the qualities of his family. Andrew Thomson died -in the flower of his youth, _multis bonis flebilis_. James Bernard died -in Bengal, in tragic circumstances, midway in a career of promise. -Never were two pleasanter or more helpful comrades. - -Though the Hlutdaw was dissolved, seven or eight of the principal -Ministers were retained on moderate salaries as a consultative body. -They had their own office in the Hlutdaw building, with a few clerks, -and were in charge of the old State records. The handwriting of these -clerks was most elaborate and beautiful. Such writing is now, I fear, a -lost art. In the King's time Court writers were kept up to the mark by -fear of heavy penalties. - - For wrongly dividing a word at the end of a line (like thi- - s) the punishment was amputation of the right hand. - -It seems almost excessive. The Sayedawgyi were of a higher class than -ordinary clerks in Government offices. Some of them were related -to Ministers, or even to members of the royal family. And often -enough they blossomed into Wuns or Ministers. Among them were men of -ability and character. I instance my friend Maung Tin, A.T.M., Extra -Assistant Commissioner, long resident at Pagan as township officer, now -subdivisional officer, a recognized authority on the antiquities of -that historic city. Another, also Maung Tin, A.T.M., Extra Assistant -Commissioner and subdivisional officer, has written a learned history -of Burma. Both are men of good family and have attained responsible -positions under our Government. The Ministers had no powers, but were -often consulted on matters of which they had special knowledge or -means of information. Punctually at noon every day, a chaprási[120] -came into my office and announced the Minister's approach.[121] At the -ensuing conference public affairs were discussed and the opinions of -Ministers invited. If the stock of references was low, the conversation -turned to Burmese history and family affairs, of which their knowledge -was extensive and accurate. One day we were all bidden to the wedding -of the late Shwepyi Mingyi's daughter. A peculiar custom prevailed -among the wealthier classes of having marriages celebrated by Pônnas, -Hindu descendants of captives from Assam or Manipúr. It has already -been explained that Buddhism, as understood in Burma, provides no -ceremony of marriage. The custom of inviting Pônnas to celebrate -marriages of Buddhists with some sort of Hindu rite, the binding with -a thread and the eating out of the same dish, is a curious anomaly for -which I can find no parallel. This was a wedding of the Pônna type. -All Mandalay attended, including many European officers. To complete -the quaint mixture of foreign ceremonies, the health of bride and -bridegroom was drunk in champagne by those of the company who allowed -themselves that indulgence. Late in the morning, as I was about to -leave, one of the Ministers said with a sigh: "Well, I suppose we must -be getting away to office too." The suggestion that such a festal day -might be spent as a holiday was accepted with effusion. There was -something pathetic in the thought of these men, all of mature and -some of advanced years, who had exercised almost absolute sway over -a kingdom, regarding themselves as under the orders of an officer so -much their junior in age. I did my best to make the position as little -irksome as might be. As I retained the friendship of every one of them -as long as he lived, I hope my efforts had some measure of success. - -With the Kinwun Mingyi I contracted a close and intimate friendship, -which ended only with his death at an advanced age. In early days -Andrew Thomson and I were often at his house, playing with his charming -grandchildren, small boys and girls of four or five years of age; -sometimes on Sunday mornings we went to his garden beyond the walls -for an early picnic. The Mingyi was a man of amiable disposition and -courtly manners, of great learning, a delightful companion. To have had -the privilege of discussing with him the doctrine of Neikban (Nirvana) -is a pleasant memory. Although he could have no real love for our -Government, he loyally accepted it, and did his best to support and -strengthen the new order. I believe him to have been a man of high -character, incapable of any base or treacherous act. His personal -record was unimpeachable; he lived and died in honourable disregard of -wealth. He had no children except two sons by adoption. - -Another house where I was always welcome was that of the widow of the -Pagan Min. She was his principal Queen, and occupied the house where -the deposed King and herself had lived since the accession of Mindôn -Min.[122] It was interesting to meet in such conditions one who had sat -on the throne and was sprung from the race of Burma's Kings. She was a -charming lady, advanced in years, with the fine manners of her rank and -people. In the house of the Pintha Mintha[123] I was also received on -cordial terms. My friendship with his family subsists to this day. - -The description already given[124] of the position of women in Burma -may help to render intelligible the sketch of our life in Mandalay in -early days. For some months European ladies were not encouraged to come -to Mandalay. Most of us were extremely busy, and lived an austere life -in the Palace. For companionship we were dependent on one another and -on our Burmese friends. The people of whom I saw most in rare intervals -of relaxation were officials and their families and members of the -royal house. Queens and Princesses were many. For a melancholy reason -Princes were few. Except the Myingun Prince in Pondicherry, and the -Nyaung-yan and Nyaung-ôk Princes in Calcutta, only two of Mindôn Min's -sons survived--the Kawlin and Pyinmana[125] Princes.[126] Educated in -India, these two have now for some years lived in charming domesticity -in Rangoon; each happily married to a lady of his House. Both are -honorary magistrates, and duly take their turn as members of a Bench -for the trial of petty cases. There were a few other Minthas, sons of -the Einshemin[127] and other Princes, besides more distant relations of -the King. Several of the Minthas have taken service under Government, -and occupy responsible positions as Assistant Commissioners, M[)y]o-ôks, -and in other departments. Almost all the ladies of the Royal House, -widows and daughters of Mindôn Min, or otherwise nearly related to -the King, were in great distress and poverty. For the most part -they had subsisted on meagre allowances, many of them being kept in -confinement or under restraint. All these ladies received pensions -from the British Government, but on so minute a scale that Sir Charles -Bernard's proposals for their maintenance excited by their moderation -the surprise even of the Government of India. Yet when income-tax was, -as some think illegally, levied in Upper Burma on incomes derived -from Government, I am ashamed to say that these paltry stipends were -subjected to deduction. From time to time the scale of pensions was -raised, but it was not till many years later that I had the good -fortune to enlist Lord Minto's active sympathy with these ladies, and -to secure for them allowances not utterly inadequate. Most prominent of -the royal ladies in Mandalay were two full sisters of King Thebaw, the -Pakangyi and Meiktila Supaya.[128] Meiktila Supaya married a commoner, -and died some years ago, leaving two charming daughters, of whom one -is the wife of a Government officer. The Amá-daw-gyi[129] brought up -her nieces, and lived quietly in Mandalay till recent days. Only one -of Mindôn Min's wives of royal stock survived till our time. Wives of -inferior rank were not of royal blood, but for the most part daughters -of officials or chiefs. The three whom I knew best were three sisters, -the Limban, Thetpan, and Thayazein Queens, daughters of a Talaing -M[)y]o-thugyi in Lower Burma. They were ladies of dignity and refinement, -with whom my family and I were long on terms of intimacy. Only the -Thayazein Queen survives, living happily with her daughters and -grandchildren in Rangoon. The pension list included over one hundred -persons. At first the Princesses shrank from marrying commoners, but -clearly most of them must condescend or remain unwed. Many of them, -therefore, in the course of time took husbands of inferior rank. In -the quarter of a century which has passed since the annexation, not -one of the ladies of the Burmese royal family has given the slightest -trouble to Government from a political point of view; none of them has -intrigued or shared in any conspiracy or seditious movement. When the -prominent part taken by Burmese women in public and private affairs is -remembered, it will be admitted that, if for this reason alone, these -ladies merit gentle treatment at our hands. I think they might at least -be excused from paying income-tax on their pensions. - -It may be appropriate here to notice the theory and practice of class -distinctions in Burma. The King and the royal family were placed on -a lone and lofty pedestal, and regarded with exaggerated reverence. -In respect of royalty there was almost, not quite, a distinction of -caste. An instance of respect for the sacredness of the blood royal -came under my own notice. A granddaughter of Mindôn Min, daughter -of his son by a minor Queen, a charming and attractive girl, eloped -with the Queen's nephew, a very presentable youth. The boy was one of -the Queen's household, son of the Queen's own brother, a commoner. -The Mipaya's[130] distress and indignation were extreme. To console -her, I suggested that, after all, the lover was of her own family. "I -would as soon she had married a coolie out of the street," was the -uncompromising reply. The old lady had no rest till she had worried -these young people to divorce, and married the girl to a Princeling. -Anomalies were necessarily recognized. Though the King took as his -chief Queen one of his half-sisters, Kings and Princes might marry -commoners; royal ladies might not do so. Of late, as we have seen, -this rule has become less strict. But genuine respect for the royal -family still abounds. To this day, whether in Upper or Lower Burma, -any upstart who pretends to royal origin secures a following.[131] The -very sensible plan of employing them as M[)y]o-ôks and Extra Assistant -Commissioners has done much to keep real sons of Princes out of -mischief. - -Apart from the royal family and monks, the only distinct class among -Burmans is that of officials. There is no landed gentry; there are -no county families. In most cases, especially in the higher grades, -official rank was not hereditary. The Mingyi's son did not become a -Mingyi, or the Wun's son a Wun, by succession. Occasionally one came -across officers, like my friend U Pe Si,[132] sprung from official -families. This was the result of nepotism, not heredity. As a rule -an official obtained his position by luck or by favour or by family -influence, by repute for learning, or by distinction as a soldier or -administrator. The royal family and officials excluded, the rest of the -people were on the same social plane. False pride and snobbishness were -unknown. One of the Ministers, of eminent learning, who came clad in -silks and glittering with golden chains, brought his brother to see me. -The brother was an old peasant out of the fields, who sat on the floor, -wearing the scanty dress of the working farmer. We had a pleasant -talk about crops and seasons, while the Minister sat on a chair and -discussed what Prince Hassan[133] used to call "country business." It -is, perhaps, to this absence of false pride, to genuine kindness of -heart, and to traditional respect for elders, that the fine manners -of Burmans are due. Good manners and self-respect are marks of all -ranks. I have received perfect civility and courtesy from Princes and -Ministers, from peasants and labouring men; always a kind word and a -smile and thought for a guest's comfort and convenience. Even contact -with Western civilization has not yet spoilt the grace of manner which -adorns the Burmese race. - -The lack of class distinctions imports a certain want of cohesion, -which does not facilitate the task of administration. Burmans are rank -individualists, and so, I suppose, far behind the times. Each family is -a separate entity, bound by no ties to any overlord. It is true that -the hereditary principle is strong in the case of minor offices, such -as those of M[)y]o-thugyi[134] or Ywa-thugyi.[135] These comparatively -small but important offices passed from father to son for generations. -In Lower Burma we have practically abolished the circle, and in Upper -Burma the M[)y]o is likewise in process of decay. I for one agree that -the village is the better unit. Yet some tribute of respect must be -paid to the old M[)y]o-thugyi, a courtly country gentleman of dignity and -presence, possibly more ornamental than useful. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -THE FIRST YEAR AFTER THE ANNEXATION - - -The task of constituting the new Administration and of reducing the -country to order was rendered especially difficult by the rigid economy -at first contemplated by the Government of India. In the discussions -during the Viceroy's visit it is understood that frugality was declared -essential. With the loyalty which in him, as in Sir Arthur Phayre, -rose almost to a passion, Sir Charles Bernard did his utmost to carry -out the wishes of Government. Beyond doubt or dispute, a burden far -greater than any man should be asked to bear was placed upon the -Chief Commissioner's shoulders. Yet the Titan never showed signs of -weariness. There were to be no Divisional Commissioners; district -officers were to work under the Chief Commissioner's orders. The -provision for police, especially military police, was quite inadequate. -The Secretariat staff was plainly insufficient. No one but Sir Charles -Bernard, with his immense power of work, his loyal enthusiasm, his -marvellous memory and mastery of detail, could have attempted the -task. And the effort was beyond even those exceptional powers. In -the first year of the occupation Sir Charles Bernard, for some time -single-handed, organized and directed the administration of the new -Province, doing the work of three ordinary men, dealing as far as -possible immediately in police matters with the Inspector-General, in -forest matters with the Conservator, keeping close touch and on the -most friendly terms with the military authorities, keeping also in -personal contact with every district officer, guiding, encouraging, -seldom admonishing. Throughout this year of labour and anxiety he was -hardly a week free from severe and painful illness. Almost from the -beginning he was the target of malicious and venomous attack. With an -inadequate though loyal and efficient staff in the districts; with -scanty funds doled out by the Imperial Government, which then, as -ever, treated Burma with unsympathetic parsimony; under the depressing -effects of illness, the object of ignorant and unscrupulous detraction, -the work done by Sir Charles Bernard in that first year, when order -began to be evolved out of chaos, has never been properly appreciated -in public. But no civil officer who served in Upper Burma in that year -fails to recognize the heroic work done by his Chief, or to remember -the support and encouragement received from him in times of trouble, -doubt, and confusion. No military officer of standing forgets the -loyal co-operation of the civil power as represented by the Chief -Commissioner. Sir Charles Bernard could not remain in Burma to complete -his work. He laid a sound basis for the restoration of order and -the building up of the fabric of settled government. The report of -the year's work issued at the end of 1886 was a record of which no -Administration need have been ashamed. - -As might have been foreseen from the first, it was soon found -impossible for the Chief Commissioner directly to control the -affairs of every District. Upper Burma was therefore partitioned -into Divisions, and Commissioners were appointed. In June, Mr. H. -St. G. Tucker, C.S., became Commissioner of the Eastern Division, -with headquarters at Ningyan (Pyinmana). This division was more -remote from Mandalay than any part of the Province as yet sought to -be administered; there was no communication with it by water, and -neither road nor rail was yet in being. In August and September three -other divisions were constituted. Mr. G. D. Burgess, C.S., became -Commissioner of the Northern Division; Mr. F. W. R. Fryer,[136] C.S., -with a great reputation from the Punjab, assumed charge of the Central -Division, both for a time residing at Mandalay; Mr. J. J. Digges La -Touche,[137] C.S., from the North-West Provinces, was posted to the -Southern Division, with headquarters at Minbu. With some adjustment -of local limits, these Divisions still subsist. Their names have -been changed, not, I think, for the better, and in most cases the -headquarters have been shifted. The appointment of these officers -afforded the Chief Commissioner appreciable relief. - -Having taken over an area twice as large as Lower Burma, Sir Charles -Bernard was confronted with the task of finding officers to administer -it. Obviously the existing staff could not be stretched to cover the -new Province and provide equipment for the old Province as well. For -the Commission civilians were sent from other provinces, military -civilians were recruited, and appointments were offered to men in -various departments or not yet in Government service. In each of these -alternatives there were advantages and disadvantages. Civilians from -other provinces, though versed in the art of administration, were -ignorant of the language and customs of Burma. Military civilians, -excellent material, needed some training in civil work. Officers of -other departments and non-officials recruited in the Province knew the -language and the people, but had no acquaintance with administrative -methods. The last-mentioned defect is probably regarded by many as -imaginary. While for other arts and professions a laborious education -is necessary, we all know that government and administration are gifts -of the gods and come by nature. We are all familiar with brilliant -amateurs in administration, who know their work far better than those -trained to the business from their youth. The Commission was thus a -composite body, probably not so supremely excellent as that which -undertook the settlement of the Punjab under John and Henry Lawrence, -but full of ability and zeal. The Civil Service, the Army, and what -were then called the Uncovenanted Services, furnished officers of -conspicuous merit, who in the years immediately succeeding the -annexation and in later times did invaluable work. Without making -invidious distinctions or offering presumptuous criticisms, I may -mention of the early new-comers Mr. H. P. Todd-Naylor,[138] Mr. J. -George Scott,[139] Mr. H. A. Browning,[140] Mr. B. S. Carey,[141] and -Mr. H. M. S. Matthews.[142] - -The officering of the civil police was one of even greater difficulty, -the pay and prospects being far less attractive. Some officers were -drafted from other Provinces. Many adventurous young gentlemen flocked -to Mandalay, eager to take part in the settlement of a new Province. -Of these some were appointed to be inspectors, some to be even head -constables, with a prospect of obtaining gazetted rank in the course -of time. Most of them did excellent work, fully justifying their -selection. From time to time some were transferred to the Commission. -The majority had a hard and disappointing life, waiting long for the -realization of their dreams. The story of the Burma Civil Police is one -of hope deferred, and of weary plodding through many dismal years. It -is greatly to the credit of its officers that they did well under such -depressing conditions. - -In the first year, at least, the bulk of the actual work of pacification -was done by the army of occupation. Sir George White was in command, -brave among the brave, cheeriest of companions, loyalest of friends, -the warrior whom every man in arms should wish to be. Chief of his -Staff was Colonel Prothero,[143] who worked all day and night without -turning a hair, whose gay serenity nothing could ruffle, whose motto -might have been: - - "Still to be neat, still to be dressed - As always going to a feast." - -In the course of the summer, Sir Herbert Macpherson, V.C.,[144] came -over to exercise general control. After his lamented death, the -Commander-in-Chief in India himself, Sir Frederick Roberts, spent some -months in Burma, occupying the summer-house in the Palace garden where -the King surrendered, giving to civil and military administration the -support of his authority, the strength of his wise counsel. Gradually, -as the area of settled government extended, the country was covered -with a network of small military posts, more than a hundred being in -existence at the end of the year. - -In these months came the first two military police battalions, raised -by Mr. Loch and Mr. Gastrell.[145] The Mandalay battalion, which I -knew best, attracted the flower of the Punjab. Under Mr. Gastrell's -excellent command it became a thoroughly efficient force, conspicuous -among the large body of military police which garrisoned the country -in subsequent years. These military police played an important part -in the pacification. Their behaviour was most praiseworthy. Several -battalions later on were converted into regular regiments of the Indian -Army, called at first Burma Regiments. - -For civil administration the Province was parcelled out into Districts, -at first twelve, afterwards seventeen in number, each in charge of a -Deputy Commissioner, with such Assistants as could be provided. In -some cases military commandants of outposts were invested with civil -powers, and did much useful work in a civil capacity. Every effort -was made to enlist local Burman officials under Government, and many -became M[)y]o-ôks and rendered valuable service. But it was impossible -to induce higher officials to leave Mandalay, and to take part in the -settlement of out-districts. The effort was made and failed. One of -Sir Charles Bernard's first acts was the preparation and promulgation -of a set of instructions to civil officers, an admirable compilation -embracing in a small compass all the rules necessary at the outset -for the guidance of his subordinates. That was all the law we had in -Upper Burma till the end of November, 1886. As an instance of the care -taken to prevent hasty and harsh measures, it may be mentioned that -all capital sentences had to be referred to the Chief Commissioner for -confirmation. When Commissioners were appointed, the duty of confirming -these sentences was delegated to them. - -The chaos to which the country was reduced, and the confusion which -prevailed under the Burmese Government, rendered the task of -settlement extraordinarily difficult. The country was overrun with -dacoit bands, ranging in numbers from five to five hundred. The names -of the leaders, Hla U, Bo[146] Cho, Bo Swè, Ôktama, Shwe Yan, became -household words. For some of the dacoit movements there was no doubt a -slight political move. A few scions of the royal stock who had escaped -the massacres of 1879 set up as pretenders to sovereignty, while here -and there men of humble origin assumed the style of royalty and raised -the standard of revolt. But as a rule, from the deeds and aspirations -of these robber bands genuine patriotism was conspicuously absent. -Most of the gangs consisted of dacoits pure and simple, whose sole -object was plunder and rapine, who held the countryside in terror, and -committed indescribable atrocities on their own people. Where-ever -there was an appearance of organized resistance, Buddhist monks were -among the chiefs. No political movement of importance has been without -a monk as the leading spirit. - -The story of the pacification has been told fully, vividly, and -accurately by Sir Charles Crosthwaite.[147] It is not my purpose to -attempt to tell the story again. In the first year the work proceeded -slowly, but within limits effectually. Many dacoit leaders were killed -or captured, and the elements of regular administration were introduced -into several districts. Revenue, of no enormous amount, it is true, -was collected; the country was covered with telegraph lines; useful -public works were undertaken. The early months were clouded by the loss -in action of Robert Phayre, a promising civilian;[148] the autumn was -saddened, for me most of all, by the death from fever, in Kyauksè, of -Robert Pilcher. A master of their language, and sincerely in sympathy -with them, Pilcher was exceedingly popular with the Burmese. The first -time I ever saw a man literally beat his breast for grief was when I -told the good old Taungtaya-ngasè Bo[149] the sad tidings of his death. -Since then I have seen men and boys beat their breasts and shed real -tears at the recital of the tale of Hassan and Hussein[150] at the -Mohurram. Pilcher was a scholar with a touch of genius; his early death -was a loss to the State. - -[Illustration: A BURMESE FAMILY.] - -Among the homely virtues of the Burmese must be counted respect -for parents. This is inculcated in the Sacred Books, and forms a -really pleasing phase of family life. Two nephews of the Taung-gwin -Mingyi, one of the Council of Ministers, were giving trouble in the -Ava district. It was suggested to the Mingyi that he should use his -influence to induce them to surrender and make peace with Government. -"Certainly," said the Mingyi; "I will send for their parents and put -them in my dungeon and afflict them till their sons come in." It was -not possible to approve this crude proposal, but the Mingyi was told -that he might ask the parents to stay with him, and talk kindly to them -about their erring children. The young men submitted in a week, and -gave no further trouble. In Sagaing a famous Bo, Min O, was captured. -His life was forfeit for many crimes; but he was an old man, and two -of his sons were at large, leading dacoit bands. Word was sent to them -that if they did not surrender, their father would be hanged; but if -they gave themselves up, his life would be spared. Both came in. It -will no doubt surprise some people to learn that the promise to spare -Min O's life was kept. - -In the early days of April, 1886, there seemed to be a lull in the -storm. The time of the Burmese New Year approached, always a time of -some anxiety, when, if ever, disturbance may be expected. Perhaps this -had not yet been realized. The exact moment on which the New Year -began was calculated by the Pônnas,[151] who, besides officiating -at weddings, were also the royal astrologers.[152] The time was to -be announced by the firing of a cannon from the Palace enclosure. -On that April morning the astrologers assembled in the courtyard of -the Palace. The head seer drew a line in the dust, planted a small -stick, and declared that when the shadow of the stick reached the -line the auspicious moment would have come. At the precise instant I -made a preconcerted sign, and the cannon was fired. It might have -been arranged as the signal of revolt throughout the country. On that -day all the principal military posts in Upper Burma were attacked, -doubtless in pursuance of a definite plan. Next morning my servant -woke me rather early with the intimation that "the enemy were at the -gate." At dawn there had been a serious attack on the city of Mandalay, -swarming with troops, by a band of some twenty or thirty rebels -acting in concert with a few confederates within the walls. Inside -the city two unlucky medical subordinates were killed, and within and -without incendiary fires were lighted. The fire spread even to the -Palace enclosure, and we were in some anxiety for the main buildings, -which, once alight, would have burned like matchwood. To the roof of -the Hlutdaw mounted the faithful Thwethaukgyi[153] Tun Baw and his -subordinates, with chatties[154] of water and bamboo poles, to quench -and beat out flying sparks. Luckily the fire in the enclosure was -mastered, and we returned, grimy and thirsty, relieved to find our -quarters still standing. As the Palace was crowded with military and -civil officers and their establishments, and contained all the records, -its destruction would have been very inconvenient. - -The fortnight which followed was the longest fortnight of my life. It -was crowded with incident, attacks and risings, above all, incendiary -fires. Since those days I have ceased to take interest in fires. On the -Queen's Tower[155] stood a sentinel, day and night, to sound the alarm. -The easiest way to the tower was through my bedroom. Nightly I went to -sleep in expectation of being aroused by the fire-bugle and the tramp -of men, and I was hardly ever disappointed. Every night we climbed -the wooden tower, and saw the blaze of conflagration in town or city. -Once I asked the sentry if he had heard any sound of firing. "Well, -sir, I thought I did hear one of them there brinjals,"[156] was the -unexpected answer. Once, again, fire broke out within the Palace fence, -but did not spread. This also was well, as close to our quarters were -considerable quantities of gunpowder and dynamite. With the early rains -at the end of April fires ceased, and Mandalay enjoyed comparative rest. - -It was certain that some of the Burmese officials in Mandalay were -fomenting seditious movements in the country. Suspicion fell upon the -Shwehlan Myowun[157] and the Hlethin Atwinwun.[158] The Myowun was -removed to India in virtue of a warrant issued under the invaluable -Regulation III. of 1818. He was taken from his house by Mr. J. G. -Scott,[159] who had joined the Commission and was on general duty in -Mandalay. Their next meeting was at a pwè in Mandalay, on a memorable -night in 1897, long after the Myowun had been allowed to return.[160] -The Hlethin Atwinwun, most plausible and bland of miscreants, believed -to have been deeply involved in the massacre of Princes, from whose -hands one expected to see blood still dripping, was moved to visit -Calcutta of his own accord in response to a general invitation given -to Burmese Ministers by Lord Dufferin. He stayed in Calcutta for some -years, much against his will, but solely under pressure of peaceful -persuasion. He returned much chastened, and lived on good terms with -the officers of Government till his death early last year. - -In accordance with precedent not always observed, King Mindôn had -moved his capital from Amarapura to Mandalay in the late fifties, -transferring thither many of the inhabitants and all the entourage of -the Court. The site was not in all respects well chosen. Much of the -town was below the level of the river in high flood, and had to be -protected by an embankment. In the rains of 1886 the Irrawaddy rose -to an abnormal height, causing grave anxiety for the safety of the -bund.[161] One night in August the disaster came. The embankment was -breached, and the low-lying parts of the town, as far as the great -bazaar (zegyo), were inundated. It was a night of peril and excitement, -which taxed to the utmost the energies of the officers in charge of -Mandalay, Captain Adamson, Mr. Carter, and Mr. Fforde. Till the river -began to fall the town remained under water, and we all went about the -streets in boats and launches. As the Burman is an amphibious being, -and the people in the area menaced by the flood had ample warning, the -loss of life was comparatively small. Searching inquiry established the -conclusion that twelve persons were drowned. An even more melancholy -loss of life occurred in connection with the distribution of rice to -people rendered destitute by the flood. In a crowd in a narrow passage -someone fell; the throng pushed forward unknowing, and many people were -trampled to death before the press could be stayed. - -One of the objects to which from the beginning the Chief Commissioner -devoted the full force of his energy and influence was the continuation -of the railway from Toungoo to Mandalay. By dint of constant and -indefatigable pressure on the higher powers, and by steadfast -resistance to the suggestion that a trunk road should first be made, -he succeeded in obtaining sanction for this essential work. The survey -was actually begun in the rains of 1886; construction was started -early in November of that year; and in February, 1889, less than three -years after the proclamation of annexation, the line was opened to -traffic throughout its whole length. To those who have experienced the -delay usually attending the grant of sanction to important and costly -proposals, the most remarkable feature of this record is that leave -should have been obtained in less than a year from the occupation of -Mandalay. The construction of the line afforded work to great numbers -of Burmans and others, and proved one of the most pacifying influences -in the eastern districts. There were no engineering difficulties, and -the climate enabled work to be carried on continuously throughout the -year. The opening of the railway was hailed with joy by the Burmans, -who expressed their appreciation in characteristic fashion, greeting -passing trains with shouts of delight and crowding to travel in the -mi-yahta.[162] It should never be forgotten that to Sir Charles -Bernard alone the Province owes the inception of this work, as indeed -in earlier days to his far-seeing policy it owed the construction of -the railway from Rangoon to Pegu, and thence to Toungoo. Apparently -Sir Charles Bernard furnished an exception to the rule that Indian -civilians are persons of narrow horizon. - -Among the measures taken at an early stage to facilitate the -pacification of Upper Burma was the disarmament of the people. Orders -to effect this were issued by Sir Charles Bernard, and some progress -was made. It was, however, under Sir Charles Crosthwaite's rule that, -in the face of much opposition, the whole Province was effectually -disarmed. No measure has had more excellent results in the prevention -of serious disturbances. Though from time to time dacoits and robbers -have become possessed of firearms, the thoroughness of the disarmament -is proved by the inability of rebels in recent years to obtain guns -and powder. The Arms Act has been very strictly enforced in Burma, the -number of firearms in each district being strictly limited, with the -most beneficial effect. - -In the time of King Mindôn and King Thebaw many foreigners, mostly -French and Italian, flocked to Mandalay and obtained various -appointments in the King's service. The downfall of the Burmese -kingdom deprived these gentlemen of their employment. All had claims -against the Burmese Government for arrears of pay, for goods sold, or -for work done. Our Government naturally accepted responsibility for -the lawful debts of its predecessor. The claims of foreign creditors -were investigated as quickly as possible, and those established were -discharged. Besides these, there were literally hundreds of other -demands for payment of sums alleged to be due from the late Government. -These claims were laboriously investigated and reinvestigated, and -finally adjudicated upon by the Government of India. Substantial -payments were made in settlement of debts sufficiently proved. - -In those early days for most officers, military and civil, in Mandalay -life was a ceaseless round of strenuous labour. For me it was intensely -exciting. All day and often far into the night my time was fully -occupied. The enthralling interest of seeing from within and from -the centre the making of a new Province, of taking a humble share in -the work, was a privilege which falls to few men in a generation. -The receipt of reports from districts, the issue of the Chief -Commissioner's orders, daily contact with men of distinction in arms or -civil affairs, the early morning ride with my Chief or with a comrade, -sometimes even with the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Frederick Roberts, of -whose kindness I have the pleasantest recollection, opportunities for -the study of Burmese life and character, filled to overflowing the -swiftly passing weeks. Bustle and excitement and good fellowship formed -an exhilarating combination. All the holiday I had that year was a run -down to Rangoon for a day to see my wife and family off to England. -But who wanted holidays at such a time, when his work was far more -interesting and stimulating than other people's play? With Stevenson we -might say that we had "the profit of industry with the pleasures of a -pastime." - -It should hardly be necessary to say that in those early months the -outskirts and fringes, the Shan States and the Chin and Kachin Hills, -were untouched. It has been suggested that in dealing with the Shan -country there was undue delay. Anyone who realizes how much there was -to do in the plains, and how impossible it was to do everything at -once, recognizes the futility of the suggestion. The Chins were left -severely alone. The only attempt made this year to penetrate into the -Kachin Hills was the luckless expedition to Pônkan,[163] which returned -to Bhamo _re infecta_, to the extreme wrath of Sir Charles Bernard and -Sir George White. - -The Shan States occupied the whole of the east of Burma, stretching -even beyond the Mèkong River. They constituted an integral part of the -Burmese Empire, but were administered by their own hereditary chiefs, -puny folk who grovelled before the pinchbeck Majesty of Burma, and -were on a footing quite inferior to that of native rulers in India. -The first of the Shan chiefs to open communication with us was the -Sawbwa[164] of Hsipaw, or, as the Burmese called it, Thibaw, the State -from which the late King derived his title. This enlightened chief had -a romantic history which will bear retelling. Some years before, having -quarrelled with the King, he fled for his life to Lower Burma. With -a few attendants he took up his residence in Kemmendine, a suburb of -Rangoon. Presently he came to believe, very likely with good reason, -that at the King's instigation two of his servants were plotting his -death. Accustomed in his State to exercise the power of life and death, -he tried them in his own mind, found them guilty, and executed them -with his own hand, shooting them both. He was tried by the Recorder -of Rangoon (Mr. C. F. Egerton Allen[165]) and a jury, convicted, -and sentenced to death. The capital sentence was at once commuted -to transportation for life, and the chief began to serve his term -in the Rangoon jail, where he was at first set to do the usual hard -labour required of prisoners. Mr. Crosthwaite, who was acting as Chief -Commissioner, found him in this sad condition, and ordered material -alleviation of his lot. The Sawbwa's faithful Mahadevi,[166] who had -accompanied her husband, besieged the Chief Commissioner with petitions -for his release. Before long Mr. Crosthwaite yielded to her importunity -and set free the Sawbwa on condition that he never returned to British -territory. He went to the independent State of Karenni. At or about the -time of the occupation of Mandalay he made his way back to Thibaw, and -after a brief struggle regained possession of his State. - -Quite early in 1886 the Sawbwa wrote to me, as Secretary to the -Administration, saying that he had received much kindness from the -British Government, and desired to be on terms of friendship with us. -It has always seemed to me that this was a very magnanimous act. I -agree that it also showed much wisdom. The Sawbwa was a man of great -intelligence. He had seen and experienced the power of the British -Government. No doubt he realized that he was dealing with a Government -immeasurably stronger than that which it had displaced, and he saw -his interest in being on good terms with it. I think, too, that he -had a shining vision of becoming an independent Sovereign in alliance -with India. After all these deductions are made, it implied true -greatness of soul for a semi-civilized chief to remember the clemency -which had spared his life, to forget the dock and the prison cell and -work-yard. The correspondence begun by the Sawbwa was continued on -cordial terms. Early in 1887, in spite of the passionate entreaties -of his advisers, who were filled with gloomy forebodings, Kun Saing -came down to Mandalay. This again showed courage and foresight. There -was not a British officer or soldier in the length and breadth of the -Shan States. Mandalay was full of troops. Though he brought a fairly -large retinue, the Sawbwa knew that he was placing himself entirely -in our power. His confidence was more than justified. He was received -with some ceremony, Mr. J. E. Bridges, C.S., and I, as representatives -of Government, meeting him at Aung-bin-le with a squadron of cavalry -and a military band. Under this escort the Sawbwa made a triumphant -entry into Mandalay, and was allowed even to ride through the Palace -grounds. In the King's time he might sooner have hoped to fly over -them. Sir Frederick Roberts and Sir Charles Bernard were among the many -spectators of the procession. Accompanied by the Mahadevi, the Sawbwa -was suitably lodged in a Win[167] outside the city walls. The ladies -in his train were somewhat scandalized at being photographed by an -enthusiastic amateur before they had time to change out of riding kit. -The Sawbwa's amáts[168] continued in a state of alarm all the time they -were in Mandalay. Their terror rose almost to frenzy when one day the -Chief was taken for a picnic on the river in an Indian Marine vessel. -Even the Chief was somewhat relieved when he landed safe and sound on -the Hard. - -The Sawbwa had the luck to be in Mandalay at the celebration of Queen -Victoria's first Jubilee. Partly in honour of that auspicious occasion, -partly in recognition of his confidence and loyalty, the tribute of -Thibaw was remitted for ten years, and three small adjacent States, -Maing-lôn, Thônzè, and Maing-tôn, to which very shadowy claims had been -preferred, were added to the Sawbwa's territory. Sir Charles Bernard's -action in making over these States has been criticized. Viewing the -case calmly after the lapse of years, I humbly think that his decision -was wise. The suggestion of the risk of creating a powerful Shan State -strong enough to be a menace to Government was plainly ridiculous. If -all the Shan States were united under one Chief, he would not have as -much power as the ruler of a second-class native State in India. Thibaw -with its added sub-States could never be in a position to cause the -Government of Burma a moment's anxiety. On the other hand, a large and -comparatively wealthy State is more easily managed and likely to be -administered better than a lot of small tracts. - -[Illustration: THE SAWBWA OF THIBAW.] - -Although Kun Saing was not an ideal ruler; although from time to time -complaints were made against him; although, I believe unjustly, even -his loyalty was doubted, he was an enlightened and intelligent chief of -some subtlety. Twice in later years he visited England, where he had -the honour of being received by Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The story, -from first to last, has a ring of the Old Testament. The place most -of all admired by the Sawbwa was the Crystal Palace (hman-nan-daw). -Towards the end of his life, when the first signs of unrest in the East -became dimly apparent, he is said to have contracted a secret marriage -with the Pakangyi Supaya,[169] King Thebaw's sister. Not that he -meditated treason; but if anything should happen, he meant to be on the -right side. - -Two of Kun Saing's sons were partly educated in England. The elder, -Saw Hkè, succeeded his father, and is now the polished, courtly Chief -of Thibaw. The story of Saw Lu, the younger son, is pathetic and -instructive. When still a boy he was sent to England, and was for a -time at Rugby. He was a studious and ambitious youth, whose desire -was to be, not a King, but a doctor. Most unwisely, merely to see how -he was getting on, his father recalled him, and he was turned loose -in Thibaw at the age of about sixteen. The temptations besetting the -Chief's young son in his father's capital were too strong for him, -and he fell from grace. The cup of his iniquity brimmed over when he -eloped with a young girl who had been selected as the Sawbwa's Abishag. -The fugitives were brought back, and the boy was cast into prison. -"Is this your British justice?" he indignantly asked the political -officer who came to condole with him. Presently he was released, and -came to see me in Rangoon. "I don't know what to do," he said; "I -have apologized to the governor, but he won't forgive me." He was an -exceedingly good-looking, nice-mannered youth, like a pleasant English -public-school boy. He was not allowed to return to England. Over his -subsequent history it is kinder to draw a veil. The moral of this story -is that if a Burman or Shan, especially a Chief's son, is to come to -England, he should be sent while still young, and should be kept at a -good public school and at the University until his character has been -formed. He should on no account be brought back midway in the course of -his education. - -Even more deeply learned in Shan than in Burmese, Pilcher would have -been the first civil officer in the Shan States. After his death, I -was designated by Sir Charles Bernard for that post. When the time -came, another officer was selected. Speaking seriously and without -reserve, I have no doubt that this was for the advantage of the Shan -country. No one could have been more conspicuously successful than -Mr. Hildebrand[170] and Mr. Scott;[171] no one is likely to have -done nearly so well. In view of the original intention, in the cold -weather of 1886 I was given a holiday from office-work, and sent as -civil officer with a column under Colonel E. Stedman[172] to Thônzè. -Through this State ran the trade route to the Northern Shan States, -Thibaw, Theinni, and Taungbaing. Along this road came caravans of -bullocks laden with letpet.[173] Owing to dissensions in Thônzè, the -trade was stopped. The object of our expedition, the first sent into -the Shan country, was to obtain information and to open the road for -traders. Early in November, when the season should have been settled, -on a fine Sunday afternoon, I rode out to join the rearguard at Tônbo. -Next morning we were to catch up the main column at Zibingale. From -Tônbo to Zibingale we climbed the hill in a torrent of rain, letting -our ponies loose to scramble up the steep and rocky ascent, while the -Gurkhas chaffed one another and laughed at the weather. At Zibingale -we stayed under canvas in the rain for three days and three nights, -quite comfortable in our tents, but rather aggrieved at having to wade -knee-deep in mud to mess. - -The Madrasi garrison of the post was prostrate with fever almost to a -man; of our own small force about a quarter fell sick. By judicious -doses of quinine, I saved my servants and myself, so that we all came -through unscathed. After three days the rain ceased and we began our -march in cool November sunshine. On that delightful plateau, some three -thousand feet above the sea, the winter climate is perfect. We rode -through forest paths and fairy glades, wild roses clustering in the -hedges. At Pyintha and Singaing, we first saw the bazaar, held every -five days, a custom peculiar to the Shan States and Further East. -Buyers and sellers came from all the countryside, often from distant -places. It is much like market-day in a country town in England. The -market at Singaing and at Pyinulwin was of some interest, and attracted -strange folk from the hills. It was not to be compared with the great -bazaars held at Kengtung, Namkham, or even Mogôk, thronged with many -varieties of races in rich diversities of attire. To us, the people -most novel and attractive were the Shans, men swaggering in baggy -trousers and large flapping straw hats brigand-like, but formidable -only in appearance; girls with russet-rosy cheeks, shy and gentle. -Pyin-u-lwin, a charmingly situated village of some five-and-twenty -houses, with a market-place and a gambling ring, won our hearts. Though -we did not actually discover Pyin-u-lwin, we were among its earliest -visitors. We were received with all kindness and hospitality. Several -of us were housed in the village monastery, where we were heartily -welcomed by the monk. He was still there when I left Burma twenty-four -years later. With Captain E. W. Dun, our Intelligence Officer, I -inspected a curious magnetic rock in the neighbouring jungle. Some -years afterwards it was described as a new discovery by a geologist of -note. It has been lost again, but will doubtless be found some day. -Soon after our return, on Colonel Stedman's recommendation, a military -post was established at Pyin-u-lwin, and called May-m[)y]o, after Colonel -May, of the Bengal army, a Mutiny veteran, the first Commandant. -May-m[)y]o is now the summer residence of the Burma Government and the -headquarters of the Burma division, a flourishing hill-station with a -population of about 12,000. Without pretension to the picturesque, it -is a place of great charm and quiet beauty, with no palm-trees and few -pagodas, conspicuously un-Oriental, more like a corner of Surrey than -of Burma.[174] - -From Pyin-u-lwin we marched to Thônzè, through a desolate country, -overgrown with elephant-grass, but with many signs of past prosperity. -At the ruined town of Thônzè, now no more than a straggling village, -we halted and tried to open communication with Hein Sè,[175] a bandit -who claimed to be Chief of the State. I promised him a safe-conduct and -liberty to depart if we could not come to terms, and to encourage him, -I offered to let him keep my messenger as a hostage for his safety. -This offer was made with the knowledge and consent of the messenger, -a little Shan chiefling known as the Tabet Myosa. Him we had found, -practically destitute, in Mandalay, where he had been detained by the -King. As a matter of grace, he was given an allowance of Rs. 10[176] a -month. He accompanied me on this tour, and pluckily undertook to carry -my letter to Hein Sè. As he was leaving, he turned at the tent-door, -and said: "But you will let him come back, won't you?" Accepting my -assurance, he went off. I know that he discharged his mission, as I -received a reply. But his courage was not put to the extreme test. Hein -Sè behaved like a gentleman, treated the envoy kindly, and sent him -back in safety. He himself declined my invitation. The future history -of Tabet may be told here. A few months later, when Mr. Hildebrand -and Mr. Scott went to the Shan States, I sent the Myosa with them. He -made himself useful, and showed nerve and ability. When, owing to the -persistent recalcitrance of its ruler, who fled across the Salween -and stayed there, the large State of Yatsauk was in need of a chief, -Tabet was chosen. He ruled Yatsauk with loyalty and intelligence, and -handed down the succession to his son. His fortune, probably his merit, -was better than that of another Shan chiefling of similar status, the -Maingkaing Myosa, who also received from Government 13s. 4d. a month, -and received no more. - -The rest of this tour was without incident. We explained to the people -of Thônzè the beneficent intentions of Government, and gave a practical -example of the good manners of a British military force. The Gurkhas -of the column, then as ever, were specially popular with the people to -whom doubtless they are akin. - -In February, 1887, Mandalay was not behind the rest of India in -celebrating the Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The ceremonies -were designedly arranged so as to give the people an opportunity of -demonstrating their loyalty and devotion to the Crown by revels which -they themselves appreciated. For a week pwès[177] and other Burmese -festivities went on day and night. On the first day came all the -members of the royal family, all the high officials, and a crowd of -others, in their gayest and richest attire. In the principal ballet -appeared, probably for the last time, the famous singer and dancer, -Yindaw Ma Le, the favourite of Princes, undisputed _prima donna_ of the -Burmese operatic stage, who ten years before had been sent to Rangoon -by Mindôn Min to dance at the Proclamation rejoicings. Twenty years -later her successor, Ma Twe Le, also a lady of supreme grace and -serpentine charm,[178] had the honour of dancing before Their Royal -Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales. - -One of the relaxations of those early days was to see the working of -the Elephant Kheddah at Amarapura. The Kheddah establishment, inherited -from the King and maintained for some time, consisted of a number -of tame elephants, thoroughly well trained, with Burmese riders and -hunters. The tame elephants, some with riders, some guided only by -their own sagacity, plunged into a jungle teeming with herds of their -wild brethren. By artful strategy a wild elephant would be detached -from his fellows, lured into the midst of the tame herd, and gradually -drawn to the Kheddah enclosure. This was a quadrangle, entered only by -a funnel-shaped passage, surrounded by a strong outer wall of brick -and by an inner stockade of stout teak posts set at intervals, with -a space between the stockade and the wall. By his clever, perfidious -friends, the captive was cunningly edged and hustled towards the -passage till finally he was thrust into its mouth. Then the gate was -securely fastened and the quarry was alone at the mercy of his captors. -The hunters teased him with blunt spears and sticks, not doing him any -real harm, but annoying him exceedingly, escaping his charge by darting -between the posts of the palisade, set wide enough apart to admit a -man but not an elephant. This was a sport of some danger, requiring -nerve and agility. When the poor beast was thoroughly tired, he was -noosed and tied up in the Kheddah, and the process of training began. -Spectators sat in crowds on the wall to watch this pastime. I do not -think it occurred to any of us that it was somewhat cruel. - -In March, 1887, Sir Charles Bernard left Burma. He was entertained by -the Headquarters Mess at a farewell dinner, where Sir George White[179] -proposed his health in moving and eloquent terms, quoting most -appropriately the famous lines: - - "Him who cares not to be great, - But as he saves or serves the State. - Not once or twice in our rough island story, - The path of duty was the way to glory: - He that walks it, only thirsting - For the right, and learns to deaden - Love of self, before his journey closes, - He shall find the stubborn thistle bursting - Into glossy purples, which outredden - All voluptuous garden-roses." - -We escorted our guest to the steamer, and there bade farewell to our -Chief and our friend. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -A FEW WORDS ON BUDDHISM - - -Buddhist monks are the most influential and most respected class of -the community. In passing it may be mentioned that there is no such -person as a Buddhist priest. No one exercises any sacerdotal function -or celebrates any Sacrament. The religious are not priests, but monks, -a numerous and well-organized body, wielding indefinite but real -authority. In every village at least one monk is found. In Mandalay, -the typical Burmese city, they were numbered by thousands. Professed -monks are bound by vows of chastity and poverty, and are subject to -strict discipline. Wearing the yellow robe, the distinctive mark of -their order, as morning comes round monks and novices from every -monastery walk slowly through the streets, each bearing a bowl for -the receipt of the offerings of the faithful. We must not call this -vessel a "begging-bowl." One of the many acts from which a monk is -bound to abstain is asking for anything. Voluntary gifts are freely -offered, and are received as a matter of course. The lives of monks -are devoted to meditation, the practice of austerities, the study and -exposition of the law, the instruction of youth. Every Burmese boy -enters a monastery, stays for a longer or shorter period, and receives -there the elements of secular learning. Also, much to his profit, he -is instructed in religious and moral duties. Thus it happens that -in Burma elementary education is widely spread. The proportion of -literate persons is greater than in any country where education is -not compulsory. It is rare to find a man who cannot at least read and -write. Sometimes men profess to have forgotten these arts, but as a -rule this is mere laziness. The influence of monks having remained -undisturbed by foreign contact, five-and-twenty years ago sound -education in the vernacular was more common in Upper Burma than in the -rest of the Province. In my own Court in Mandalay, in comparatively -early days, a Lower Burman clerk was stumbling over the reading of a -document. A bystander, apparently a plain man, offered his services. -Borrowing a pair of spectacles from his neighbour, he read the crabbed -text with fluency and accuracy. The incident does not prove, but it -illustrates, my argument. - -[Illustration: MONASTERY WITH CARVING.] - -Apart from the instruction of youth and the exposition of the law, -monks are not supposed to take an interest in mundane affairs. Their -aloofness has been exaggerated. In a country village, for example, the -monk was obviously the most learned and disinterested, very likely the -most intelligent, person. Inevitably he was sought as the arbitrator -of disputes. That monks often acted in that capacity, I have found -abundant evidence in old documents produced before me in court. Some -of these went back a hundred years, when the country was quite free -from foreign influence, and cannot be regarded as indicating degeneracy -of the monastic order. Again, it has been said that the authority -of monks depended solely on their personal qualities and religious -character, that it had no secular sanction. As regards Upper Burma -in the King's time, nothing can be farther from the truth. Buddhist -ecclesiastics relied on the arm of flesh. The King and his officers -promptly and effectually enforced the commands of the hierarchy. Laymen -were severely punished for ecclesiastical offences, and recalcitrant -monks were imprisoned within the precincts of a pagoda, or compelled to -do acts of penance. In early days in Mandalay one Deputy Commissioner -essayed to maintain the ancient rule, and to give effect to monastic -sentences. Unfortunately this good practice could not last. Now the -hierarchy complain that, as Government will not enforce discipline, -authority is waning, with disastrous results. The most that the Courts -have found possible is to give effect to decisions of duly constituted -religious tribunals in disputes of a civil nature between members of -the order. Another instance of the interference of monks in worldly -affairs, their almost invariable complicity in political intrigues, -has been already mentioned. The Kinwun Mingyi himself emerged from a -monastery to take part in the rebellion which placed Mindôn Min on the -throne. - -On the whole, in Upper Burma as we found it, the monks constituted a -respectable body, including many learned and devout persons. I do -not pretend that all were immaculate. Doubtless there were idle and -dissolute monks. One hears from Burmans themselves of some who were -monks by day and who at night threw off the yellow robe and ranged -the town. Some of them dabbled in magic and alchemy. A really pious -monk could hardly become a dacoit chief. But the great majority -honestly lived up to their profession. The fact that the vows were not -irrevocable tended to prevent the occurrence of scandals sometimes -incident to monastic life. Complete liberty of renunciation lessened -temptation to break the vows. It was always open to a monk to return -to the world and, as it was phrased, again to become a man. Even if -a shadow of discredit attached to a monk who had come out (twet), -it was faint and transitory. In a land where life is simple and -much concealment impossible, no body of men who lived unworthily -could retain the respect of all classes. Every layman, from the -King downwards, treated monks as superior beings. I have seen the -Kinwun Mingyi lean out of his carriage and pay the graceful Burmese -reverence[180] to a humble passing monk. - -In Upper Burma the fine flower of Buddhism flourished. The monastic -system was elaborately organized. At the head was the Thathanabaing; -under him were Gaing-ôks, Gaingdauks, and Taik-ôks,[181] in due -succession and subordination. The Thathanabaing was not, as some -suppose, elected; he was appointed by the King. In former days his -authority prevailed throughout Burma. As by degrees fragments of the -country became British territory, the Thathanabaing's jurisdiction -naturally shrank, being restricted to the King's dominions. Even if for -no other reason, it was impossible for British officers to recognize in -Lower Burma the authority of a monk who lived in Ava or Mandalay, and -owed his power and appointment to a foreign monarch. Consequently the -bonds of discipline were relaxed. Monks and laity in Lower Burma were -as sheep without a shepherd. Heresies and schisms rent the Buddhist -Church. The influence of monks waned perceptibly. Buddhism was and is -still a living creed in Lower Burma. But it cannot be pretended that it -is so vital and beneficent a force as even now in the Upper districts. -Similarly, as already indicated, monastic education declined. The -absence of ecclesiastical control has caused some deterioration of -character in Lower Burma. - -The policy of the Government of India has always been to observe strict -neutrality in religious matters, to interest itself in no form of -creed. All education directed by Government has been rigidly secular. -It is now felt by many that this policy, however well-intentioned, -was mistaken, that in allowing, or even encouraging education to be -exclusively secular, Government has done much to sap the foundations of -morality and loyalty, to undermine the basis of character. Probably the -right course would have been not to stand aloof from the divers creeds -of the Empire, but to take an active interest in all, and to see that -each had fair play and encouragement. For a Christian Government to do -this would have been difficult; most likely the attempt would not have -been tolerated by public opinion at home. So far as India is concerned, -the tiresome thing about public opinion in England is that, where -interest might be beneficial, it cannot be roused; while in some vital -matter in which only the man on the spot has materials for judging, the -British public, or its spokesmen, insist on interfering. (How pleasant -would it be, for instance, to see on newspaper posters such legends -as-- - - ANOTHER WRONG TO BURMA. - - BURMA'S SAD FINANCIAL STATE. - -How unlikely we are to see them!) Perhaps of the two mistakes lack -of interest is the less mischievous. Recently we have made a step in -advance. Religious teaching in State schools has been permitted; all -pupils may receive instruction in the creeds which they profess. - -Sir Charles Bernard recognized the value of monastic influence, -and did his best to enlist it on the side of law and order. It was -particularly desirable that monks should be discouraged from taking -part in political agitation. It was also hoped that the monastic -system of education might be maintained and strengthened in sympathy -with our own Education Department. At the time of the annexation the -Thathanabaing was a weak but well-meaning person who had been King -Thebaw's tutor. The Chief Commissioner interviewed him in person and -essayed to excite his enthusiasm for the new Government. In recognition -of the part taken by monks in secular education, monthly gifts of rice -were sent to the Thathanabaing and his trusted counsellors, the Pa-kán -and Hladwe Sadaws. The Thathanabaing was induced to visit Rangoon with -a view to the extension of his authority over Lower Burma. Government -provided for his journey, which was made in some state with a long -train of monks. He was received with rapture at Prome and in Rangoon; -and a rest-house (zayat) for him and his successors was built on the -slope of the Shwe Dagôn Pagoda. The effort was ineffectual. Neither -that Thathanabaing nor his successors have exercised any power in Lower -Burma, which still remains in a state of reprobation. Another attempt -was made to conciliate Buddhist sympathy. Many monasteries and other -religious buildings had been used by troops and others for Government -purposes, and some damage had been done. All over the country monks -had hospitably received and entertained our officers, and had raised -no objection to the necessary temporary use of sacred buildings. As a -compensation for disturbance and damage, a substantial sum of money -was disbursed to a large number of monks. As monks may not touch gold -or silver, the actual coins were placed in the hands of lay followers. -These well-meant efforts had, I fear, no appreciable effect. The -Thathanabaing had not the authority, even if he had the will, to -control and direct his monks by moral force alone. Monks were civil -to British officers, often glad to have the protection of a military -post; but they did not go out of their way to preach submission to an -heretical Government. It is hardly to be expected that they would do so. - -[Illustration: THE THATHA-NA-BAING.] - -After this Thathanabaing had condescended to return, as runs the -Burmese euphemism for the death of a monk, it was some years before -Government made up its mind as to the appointment of a successor. No -one could lawfully be Thathanabaing unless appointed by the ruling -power. But it was contrary to established principle for Government -to appoint a Buddhist ecclesiastic. For some years the monastic -world was given up to anarchy. At last it was decided that, though -Government could not appoint, it might recognize; and though it could -not give material aid, it might lend moral support. To ascertain the -monk who would be generally acceptable, an election was held. This -device has now been adopted on two or three occasions, so that people -have begun to believe that it was always customary. The last two -holders of the office have been formally recognized by the Government -of Burma; the present Thathanabaing received a sanad[182] from the -Lieutenant-Governor. He is a monk of learning, and particular suavity -of manner and disposition. While maintaining due reserve and dignity, -he has always been on excellent terms with Government and its officers. -He has loyally exercised his influence on the side of law and order, -and has tried to smooth the path of the Education Department, anxious -to link the monastic with the Government system. Without posing as -liberal or progressive, he has been wise and conciliatory. In later -years my personal relations with the Thathanabaing were extremely -cordial. Once he honoured me by his presence at a garden-party in -Mandalay. This was, I think, an unprecedented occasion. On the lovely -lawn fringing the moat he sat, surrounded by yellow-robed counsellors, -the centre of a picturesque circle, watched with reverence by Burmese, -with respectful interest by European and Indian, guests. Among my most -treasured possessions is a rosary which he sent me, with a charming -farewell letter, when I left the Province. - -The order of Buddhist nuns must not be forgotten. They are comparatively -few in number, and, though regarded with respect, do not seem to -exercise special influence. Living sometimes in seclusion, sometimes in -communities, they occupy no prominent place. Their lives are spent in -meditation and devotion, free from secular cares. Often when stricken -by a great sorrow a woman becomes a nun, and adheres to her profession -for the rest of her life. Innocent, harmless ladies, if they are not -active in good works their passive piety is a gracious example. A nun -whom you meet in the road has a pleasing habit of invoking a blessing -as you pass. - -Buddhism as professed by the Burmese is of a high and pure type. In -Burma, and in Burma alone throughout India,[183] Buddhism is a vital -force. The suggestion that religion is in danger, or that monks have -been ill-used, is the surest way to rouse popular feeling. The ethics -of Buddhism are as lofty and inspiring as those of any faith in the -world. Obviously Burmans do not invariably shape their lives in strict -accordance with the precepts of the law. But in spite of failings and -shortcomings, the spiritual and moral force of their religion sheds a -penetrating influence on national life and character. Though its every -rule may be daily violated, Buddhism does tend to make Burmans humane, -tolerant, kind-hearted, charitable. All Burmans are well-grounded in -the mysteries of their faith. When they sin, they sin against light -and conscience. In all but the most abandoned, traces of the good -influence of their religion are evident. One very pleasing effect -is extension of benevolence in theory always, in practice often, to -every sentient being. Consider, for instance, the kindly attitude -of Burmans to lower animals. From the plump bullocks which draw the -primitive, creaking[184] carts of the country to the pariah dogs -which swarm in every village, or the pigs which used to scavenge the -streets of Mandalay (whose chase, not by the Burmese, was the only form -of pig-sticking known in Burma), all are objects of compassion and -care. The Burman's robust bullocks, nourished on their mothers' milk, -contrast pleasingly with the lean kine of the Indian. You will even -see a pious Burman save a deadly snake from destruction, and set it -loose in a place of security. This, perhaps, is an extreme instance of -logical regard for principle. - -Signs of the extent to which religion forms part of everyday life -strike the most casual observer. The country is full of pagodas, -monasteries, theins,[185] images of the Buddha, zayats. Pagodas vary in -size from the stately Shwe Dagôn to the humble fane on the outskirts -of a village. It may be worth while to explain that a pagoda is not -a temple in which worshippers pay their devotions. It is a solid -structure, often built over sacred relics, of varying type, the most -prevalent being that of the great pagoda at Rangoon. Some pagodas are -richly gilded, others merely whitewashed. Each is crowned with a ti, -if possible studded with jewels. The very topmost pinnacle is often -an inverted soda-water bottle, a primitive shield against lightning. -Monks must have monasteries. These also differ in glory, from the great -buildings, richly ornamented with carving covered with gold, founded by -the King or Queen or some high official, which adorn the royal city, -to the mat and thatched hut which shelters the poor village monk. A -Burman who amasses wealth, the farmer who has an abundant harvest -and good prices, the merchant whose venture has been successful, the -rich broker or money-lender, does not hoard his gains. He spends them -on jewels for his wife and daughters, on silks for these ladies and -himself, on building a monastery, or a pagoda, a zayat, incidentally on -a pwè[186] or an ahlu.[187] The builder of a pagoda is a Paya-taga, of -a monastery a Kyaung-taga, honorific titles in familiar use, as common -as the title of Colonel is said to be in the United States. Laymen are -associated in religious observances. A monastery has a lay attendant, -a Kappiya-taga, who makes it his business to see that the building is -maintained and duly swept and garnished. Every eighth day is set apart -by the pious for religious observances, for meditation, for visiting -a pagoda, for attendance at a monastery to hear the Law expounded. -Each year there is a long Lenten period (Wa), when abstinence and -religious practices are enjoined on the faithful, when good Buddhists -refrain from marrying, when monks remain secluded in their monasteries, -undertaking no journeys. A monk reckons his monastic life by the -number of Lents he has observed. All this sounds rather gloomy, and -in theory Buddhism ought to have a depressing effect. It teaches the -transitoriness and mutability of this world and of all human things. -No personal God smiles on his worshippers or listens to their prayers. -This life is an evil in itself, a period to be spent in the acquisition -of merit, in preparation for the ascent to a higher plane. The goal -of every man's striving is the blessed rest of Nirvana (Neikban), a -state, not of annihilation, but of rest for many ages from passion -and all transitory disturbance. For even the rest of Nirvana is not -eternal. After many æons, it may be, the unceasing round begins again. -The practical effect of this austere creed is quite different. Nowhere -is there a more gay and light-hearted people. To balance the days and -months of abstinence, religious festivals are of frequent occurrence. -Then the roads are crowded with cart-loads of merry holiday-makers. -Pagoda platforms are filled with bright-clad, laughing throngs. Pwès -and all national sports are celebrated. On every side are gaiety and -good-humour, the basis of religion underlying all. It is not for me to -attempt to explain these apparent inconsistencies. - -The people in general soon made up their minds that there was no -intention of interfering with their religion. And, in spite of isolated -instances, the monks accepted the new order with resignation, if not -with enthusiasm. The tolerant spirit of Buddhism pervades all classes. -Strangers wander unmolested and without meeting scowling looks in the -precincts of pagodas and holy places; they are welcome to explore the -recesses of monasteries, observing only common politeness and decorum. -You are not expected to take off your shoes on reaching the sacred -limits of a pagoda or monastery. Ordinary courtesy doubtless impels you -to remove your hat in a sacred building. It is not really correct to -walk across the sleeping mat of a Sadaw,[188] as I saw done by a lady -who should have known better. The Sadaw only laughed, recognizing that -no offence was meant. - -Pagodas and sacred images are left to the care of the people -themselves, tempered by the benevolent patronage of the Archæological -Survey. In too many cases these buildings and objects are left to the -process of natural decay. It seems to be somewhat more meritorious to -build a new shrine than to keep in repair an existing fabric. Probably -the builder of a new pagoda, for instance, earns all the merit for -himself, while a restorer shares it with the original founder. In the -case of edifices of special sanctity or conspicuous antiquarian or -architectural interest, arrangements have been made, at the instigation -of Government, to vest the property and management in legally appointed -trustees. The care and maintenance of sacred buildings and the due -appropriation of pious offerings are thus assured. Not only for the -Shwe Dagôn Pagoda and the Arakan Pagoda at Rangoon and Mandalay -respectively, but for many shrines of less fame, trustees have been -appointed. This is the best way of securing the preservation of -religious buildings of inestimable interest. - -One of the most striking personalities in modern Burmese Buddhism is -the Ledi Sadaw. This remarkable man devoted some years of his life to -travelling through the country preaching and exhorting. His passionate -eloquence drew immense congregations. Wherever he went he was greeted -by enraptured throngs. Men and women vied in adoration of this saintly -personage, women loosing their hair and spreading it as a carpet for -his holy feet. His fervour and fiery zeal effected real revivals, -whether lasting or transitory I dare not say. Besides addressing public -assemblies, he obtained leave to enter jails and preach reformation -to the prisoners, apparently with good results.[189] In spite of the -extraordinary enthusiasm which he inspired and the honours thrust -upon him in his triumphal progress, he preserved unstained and -flawless, simplicity and humility of character. We are not wont to -regard with favour errant monks preaching here and there. Too often -their exhortations have tended to sedition, their liberty has been a -cloak for licence. Never for a moment did the Ledi Sadaw fall under a -shadow of suspicion as to the purity of his motives and conduct, or -the good intention of his pilgrimage. The ethical part of his sermons -consisted of fervent denunciations of intemperance, drinking, gambling, -opium-smoking, the pleasant vices most devastating among Burmans. In -no way inspired by any Government officer, he did not hold aloof from -the authorities, but desired to be on good terms with them. Speaking -to Colonel Maxwell,[190] who more than most of us won the intimate -confidence of Burmans, in all simplicity he said: - -"I am not sure that Government will approve my preaching. There will be -much loss of revenue; for when I have finished, all liquor and opium -shops will be closed for want of custom." - -With a clear conscience the Commissioner bade him go on and prosper, -assuring him that Government would be well pleased if so desirable -a result could be attained. The promised millennium has not yet -arrived. While heartily approving the Sadaw, we did not think it -expedient to make our approval conspicuous, lest plausibly, though -falsely, the suggestion might be made that he was an agent of the -Asoya.[191] A travelling set of the Buddhist scriptures was the only -mark of Government's appreciation. I had the privilege of one interview -with this extraordinary man. What chiefly impressed me was his weary -expression, as though the working of the fiery spirit had worn out the -frail tenement of the body. I am glad to hear that the Sadaw still -lives, and that his preaching days are not over. - -One of the last incidents of my residence in Burma may fitly conclude -this discursive chapter. Early in 1910 we were privileged to -receive what are believed to be genuine relics of the Buddha. They -were discovered by the Archæological Survey near Peshawar. Their -authenticity has, I believe, been doubted. I hope I am not, to use the -happy phrase of an Irish friend, more prone than most men to swallow -mares'-nests. But to me the evidence of the genuine character of the -relics seems reasonably convincing. It was my fortunate lot to be -instrumental in securing the despatch of these precious remains to -Burma, where alone, as I have said, the pure spirit of Buddhism still -reigns; and to be present when, with due solemnity, at Government -House in Calcutta, the Viceroy graciously entrusted the casket and its -priceless contents to a deputation sent from Burma to receive them. -The relics were welcomed in Rangoon with demonstrations of pious -enthusiasm, and brought by a long procession to the Shwe Dagôn Pagoda, -where, for some days, they were exhibited for the edification of the -faithful. Thence they were taken to Mandalay and placed in the care of -the elders of the Arakan Pagoda till a separate suitable shrine can be -erected in custody of a duly constituted trust. - -[Illustration: A MONASTERY.] - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -UNDER SIR CHARLES CROSTHWAITE, 1887-1890 - - -Mr. C. H. T. Crosthwaite, soon afterwards Sir Charles Crosthwaite, -K.C.S.I., succeeded Sir Charles Bernard. He came enjoying the -confidence of the Viceroy, and in just expectation of the support -of the Government of India. Taking in hand at once the settlement -of the country, in the next four years he devoted his remarkable -administrative genius to the completion of the task. I cannot -becomingly express in full my humble appreciation and admiration of Sir -Charles Crosthwaite and the great work which he accomplished in Burma. -I hope it is not presumptuous of me to say that as an administrator -he ranks in the very highest class of Indian Statesmen, and is at -this moment by far the most distinguished member of our Service. -Never sparing himself, in those eventful years he initiated, guided, -directed, controlled. In his officers he inspired enthusiasm; we would -have fallen in harness to serve him or win his approval. We were always -sure of strong and efficient support, and had no fear, if things went -wrong, of being thrown to the dogs. Sir Charles Crosthwaite came to -a land still torn by internal strife; he left it a peaceful and -prosperous Province. I speak of what I know, for from first to last it -was my privilege to work immediately under him, to see the pulse of the -machine. Let those who wish to understand turn to the book[192] wherein -the story of the pacification is modestly told by the chief actor in -the drama. - -Early in March, 1887, the Chief Commissioner came to Mandalay, -retaining for a short time the separate Secretariat for Upper Burma. -Wisely distrusting the sanitary conditions of the palace, he took up -his quarters in a small house built on the city wall, intended as the -residence of a military police officer. It consisted of two or three -rooms under one of the pyathats.[193] On the first evening after the -Chief Commissioner's arrival we waited some time for dinner, as the -roof of the cook-room was blown off by a sudden gale. Since those days -the building has expanded, and has become a respectable Government -House. Thanks to the good taste of the Chief Engineer, Mr. H. J. -Richard, Burmese style has been preserved. The pyathat is the centre -of a range of buildings which might be a monastery or a section of the -Palace. Thus the house is a picturesque feature in the landscape, not -an outrage. With the moat and a stretch of green lawn on one side, and -pretty gardens on the other, commanding a fine view of Mandalay Hill -and the rugged western hillocks, it has every æsthetic quality. It -may be whispered that it is more beautiful to see than comfortable to -inhabit. - -Sir Charles Crosthwaite's first tour was undertaken for the purpose of -visiting the Ruby Mines district, then recently occupied. A military -station had been established on a lofty, somewhat bleak plateau, and -honoured with the name of Bernardm[)y]o. The civil headquarters were at -Mogôk, the centre of the ruby mines. Reaching K[)y]an-hn[)y]at by steamer, -we rode to Sagadaung, at the foot of the hills, breakfasting midway -with Mr. R. C. Stevenson,[194] the subdivisional officer. The Chief -Commissioner's party consisted of the Personal Assistant[195] and -myself. At Sagadaung it was found that all the servants, panic-stricken -at the thought of plunging into savage wilds, had refused to leave the -steamer. The kit and stores had come on, but the only servants with us -were my Madrasi boy and a few chapràsis.[196] The Personal Assistant -was equal to the occasion. He invited all the officers of the Station -to dine with the Chief Commissioner, from whom the state of affairs -was concealed. "And," said he, "as our men are rather tired, will you -let your cooks help to get dinner ready?" These assistants he supplied -with stores and necessaries, and dinner was successfully achieved. -Next morning we rode up the hill to Bernardm[)y]o, where we were kindly -made honorary members of the mess and lodged as handsomely as Service -conditions allowed. I slept in a commissariat godown,[197] with the -wind, cold even in April, whistling through the openings in the boarded -floor. After a day or two we rode on to Mogôk, through lovely evergreen -forest which still shades the bridle-path. There we were guests of the -Deputy Commissioner, the late Mr. G. M. S. Carter, who cherished us -till we reached the river and our steamer once more. Never, I ween, not -even in the Spartan days of Sir Arthur Phayre, did a Chief Commissioner -make an official tour in his Province with only a third of a boy and a -stray chapràsi or two as bearer,[198] khitmagar,[199] and cook. - -The Ruby Mines Company was still in embryo, but the syndicate out of -which it was evolved had established a footing, and Mr. F. Atlay, who -still manages its affairs, was already installed. The quest for rubies -was prosecuted by the hereditary miners, who worked by primitive native -methods. In the King's time rubies were, naturally, a royal monopoly, -and any stone of exceptional value was a royal perquisite. The most -illustrious stone on record was called, after its finder, Chin Nga -Mauk. The lucky man himself took it to the Palace, and was privileged -to lay it at the King's feet. As a reward he was allowed to take -away a cart-load of whatever he liked from the Palace. The legend of -the discovery of the mines may be told. Passing through a desolate, -unpeopled land, a wayfarer saw a vulture swoop from a solitary rock -and pick up a piece of, as it seemed to wayfarer and apparently to -vulture, raw red flesh. Surprised at such a phenomenon in a waste -place, the traveller investigated, and found the earth strewn with -lovely glittering red stones, thenceforth known as the rubies of -commerce. The truth of the story is proved by the existence to this -day of the rock on which the vulture perched. Times have changed, and -rubies are no longer picked up on the surface. Nor are they found -embedded in the stone walls of Aladdin's caves. They are extracted by -washing from ruby-bearing earth (b[)y]ôn), which is borne in trucks to -the Company's washing sheds. Each truck contains, I suppose, about -twelve cubic feet of earth; the average value is about one shilling. -But any load may produce a stone worth a King's ransom. Besides the -scientific operations of the company, mining by native methods is -still practised. The rights of hereditary miners are preserved. They -pursue the quest after the manner of their fathers, on payment of a -moderate licence-fee. The very poor, mostly women, may glean in the -beds of streams without any restriction. Ruby-mining was a profitable -business, with a pleasing element of chance. Some lucky miners amassed -large fortunes. Even the common people were affluent. The smallest coin -current in the bazaar was a silver two-anna (2d.) piece. Coppers were -unknown. In later days the Chief Commissioner or Lieutenant-Governor's -receptions at Mogôk were ceremonies of much splendour. Followed by -scores of mounted men who came to meet him, he rode through the town -under triumphal arches gleaming with silken banners, past lines of -cheering spectators, groups of dancers, and cymbal-clashing musickers, -while pretty, shy Shan girls peeped from the casements. An incident -of one of these visits, though it has nothing to do with rubies or -ceremonious receptions, may be recorded by way of comic relief. The -scene was the parade-ground; the occasion, an inspection of the -Military Police Battalion; the time, the end of summer. The ground was -wet and slippery from an early unexpected shower. After the accustomed -evolutions, the Commandant, an exceptionally smart, well-turned-out -officer, came galloping up to the Lieutenant-Governor, and as he -essayed to pull up within a yard of that august personage his pony -slipped and deposited him in the mud at his feet. Nowise abashed, he -rose, gravely saluted: "Would you like to see anything else, sir?" "No, -thank you," was the equally grave reply. And the incident closed, to -their credit, be it told, not one of the staff moving a muscle. As the -story goes, they waited to laugh till they got home. - -On our return from the first visit, our baggage borne on mules, we -rode to Thabeik-kyin along a mule-track following approximately the -line of the present road. The narrow path wound through and about the -hills, often with a yawning precipice on one hand, a wall of rock on -the other. But that the road is broad and smooth, in many respects it -resembles the old path. Ponies have still a horrid habit of hugging -the cliff's edge, and one rides with a leg suspended over the abyss. -To meet a train of pack-bullocks charging down the pass is a trying -experience. So, too, is the ascent in a motor-car with a driver -learning his work. Green forest covers the hillsides and luxuriates in -the valleys, brilliant with many-coloured blooms. The cicala fills the -open spaces with sound, so great a noise by so small a body. It was -then all new and full of interest. The beauty of the landscape charmed -every step of the march. Our guide was a handsome ruffian, Bo Aw, as -picturesque as the scene, who rode ahead in Shan dress, his flapping -straw hat decked with gay streamers. Afterwards he returned to the life -of a dacoit, and, I fear, came to a bad end. - -Soon after this, the Mandalay Secretariat ceased to exist as a separate -branch, one Secretariat, with a Chief Secretary, Secretary, Junior -Secretary, and Assistant Secretary, being constituted in Rangoon for -the whole Province. Mr. Symes became Chief Secretary, but, worn out -by many labours, went on leave, Mr. Donald Smeaton[200] coming from -India to act for him. I became Secretary, and Mr. C. G. Bayne, Junior -Secretary. The anomalous post of Special Commissioner was abolished, -Mr. Hodgkinson going to Moulmein as Commissioner. Mr. Smeaton was not -new to the Province. Some years before he had come to Burma to fill the -newly created office of Revenue Secretary and Director of Agriculture. -In that capacity he had devised and organized the Supplementary Survey -system, afterwards called the Land Records Department. This was, I -believe, an entirely original scheme, of which the design was to keep -land records and maps up to date, year by year, so as to obviate the -labour of re-survey whenever a Settlement had to be revised. In theory -the plan was admirable; its practical success has not been perfect, -partly, I think, because the establishment was inadequate. Mr. Smeaton -also organized and set to work the first regular Settlement Parties in -Burma. From 1887 onwards he served as Chief Secretary, Commissioner, -and Financial Commissioner, failing, however, in the end to attain the -high office for which his rare abilities seemed to designate him. The -Chief Secretary took over the political department, and for a time my -association with the most interesting part of the administration was -severed. I had plenty to do in my own branches. - -The Secretary was in charge of State prisoners, a few of whom, -members of the late reigning family of Delhi, still survived. The -ex-King, Bahadur Shah, who had been tried and sentenced to death for -his share in the massacre of English men and women, had been spared -the extreme penalty and sent to Rangoon, where he died in exile. -His widow, the Begam Zinath Mahal, was in Rangoon in my charge. She -and her daughter-in-law were of such exalted rank that they were -not parda-nashín[201] to English officers. More than once I saw -the old Begam who, thirty years before, had played so lurid a part -in the Mutiny. Though now of advanced age, she retained traces of -great beauty and was specially proud of her finely shaped, delicate -hands. Her beauty was of the Pit, aquiline, dark, menacing. Her son, -Prince Jawán Bakht (P. J. Bakht, as he used quaintly to style himself -on his visiting cards), the direct representative of the Moguls, -lived in Rangoon with his wife, Shah Zamani Begam, of the race of -Nadir Shah, the Persian Conqueror. Jawán Bakht was not of specially -marked character, amiable and harmless. His wife was a lady of charm -and dignity, worthy of her lofty lineage. In her youth beautiful -exceedingly, time had but little marred that lovely face. Poor lady, -she was totally blind, but the disease which had darkened her sight -left no disfigurement and hardly dimmed the lustre of her radiant eyes. -She spoke the purest Urdu, in liquid tones sweeter than any I have ever -heard in that graceful tongue. Beyond words pathetic it was to see and -converse with this lady of a great family, keeping to the last the -pride of her race and station, with every mark of a gentle and gracious -disposition, reduced to comparative poverty, and sharing without a -murmur the hard lot of the last scion of a fallen dynasty. Jawán Bakht -and Shah Zamani Begam have long been gathered to their fathers. Their -son and daughter, Mirza Jamshíd Bakht and Ronak Begam, last of the line -of Babar and Akbar and Aurangzíb, still live in Rangoon in receipt -of miserable stipends. It is true that the decadent Moguls did not -deserve well at our hands. Bahadur Shah and Zinath Mahal were treated -even more leniently than they merited. But their surviving descendants -are innocent of complicity in their crimes. Politically, they have -never given the slightest trouble; Mohammedans seem hardly aware of -their existence. Somewhat more generous treatment might be accorded -them. Their pensions might be made sufficient to enable them to live in -reasonable comfort. - -Another interesting State pensioner, not a prisoner, was Prince Hassan, -adopted son of Sultan Suleiman, leader of the Panthay[202] rebellion -in Yunnan. When, finally overthrown, Suleiman died by his own hand -to avoid capture, Hassan luckily was in Rangoon. There he stayed for -the rest of his life, in receipt of an allowance from the Indian -Government. Precisely on what grounds the grant to Hassan of a pension -from Indian revenues was justified, I have never clearly understood. -But all who knew him must be glad that any technical difficulties -were overcome. Most charming and courteous of men, Hassan was in some -respects the most attractive of the native notables of my acquaintance. -He spent his time quietly in study, occasionally paying the Secretary -a friendly visit. Ronak Begam became his wife. Some years later, after -many wanderings and much tribulation, the Panthay wife of his youth, -whom he had believed to be dead, appeared and resumed her natural -position in his house. Ronak Begam, who could hardly be expected to -take the second place, returned to her family. Hassan died some years -ago. There are a good many Panthays in Upper Burma, principally in -Mandalay, Bhamo, Mogôk, and the Shan States, sturdy men of stalwart -stature and agreeable manners, assiduous traders, and good citizens. -With several I was on friendly terms. My best friend among them one -day brought his very aged and wrinkled mother to see me and bade her -shake hands. The old dame obeyed, but pudically covered her hand with a -kerchief before clasping mine. - -For a few months in 1888 I acted as Commissioner of the Northern -Division, the second officer to hold that appointment. Including the -royal city, the Katha district on the borders of Wuntho, the Ruby -Mines, the Kachin Hills, the China frontier, the division has always -seemed the most interesting in the Province. To me who had been -associated with Mandalay from the beginning, the position was specially -attractive. The place was full of my Burmese friends by whom I was -cordially welcomed. The appointment was temporary, though at first this -was not the Chief Commissioner's intention. As a somewhat maladroit -acquaintance, meeting me at the club on my arrival, frankly said: "Of -course, you will be here only till a senior man can be sent." It was -true, but he need not have rubbed it in. - -Unlike most other officers, Commissioners draw a fixed monthly -travelling allowance. It is therefore a point of honour with them to -spend a good deal of time away from headquarters. In the Northern -Division the cost of travelling was high, and the monthly allowance -was never a source of profit. An early tour brought me to Bhamo, after -being nearly swamped by a sudden squall. Signs of violence were still -common. The Captain of the steamer assured me that quite lately he -had seen corpses floating down the river "dreadfully emancipated." At -Bhamo I was shocked to find that the day before my arrival Bo Ti, one -of the rebel leaders of Mogaung, had escaped from the primitive wooden -jail. He was never recaptured. With him went a young Indian who was -under trial for attempting to murder the Colonel of a native regiment. -The Colonel I found convalescent. He was a hard man, and sepoys had -often threatened to shoot him. As he was shaving one morning he felt -a shock, and knew that he was wounded. Thinking that the threat had -been carried out, the stout old man said to himself, "They shan't know -they have hit me," and went on shaving. It was really his own servant, -who from behind had slashed him with a sword. Owing to the Colonel's -grim determination not to let the sepoy know that he had scored, his -assailant got in another blow. This is the story as I heard it. The -Colonel, a bulky, muscular man, recovered from wounds which would -probably have killed one of slighter build. It was doubtless by the -agency of this young Indian that the guard of the jail was corrupted -and the prisoner's escape facilitated. He, too, made his way to the -Kachin country, and was never caught. Vague rumours of his presence in -the frontier fights of the next few years were current. I hope he did -not have a very good time in the hills. - -A story of Bhamo of later years may be told here. A military police -sepoy ran "amuck," as they say. Armed with a rifle and well supplied -with ammunition, he took possession of a masonry house, and from a -casement amused himself by shooting at anyone who came in sight. The -house was duly surrounded by police, and the Deputy Commissioner and -District Superintendent came down. It did not occur to them to summon -infantry and guns from the neighbouring fort, or to fire volleys at the -brick walls. The Superintendent, Mr. H. F. Hertz,[203] obtained a rough -description of the interior of the house, and entered it from next -door. Groping in the semi-darkness characteristic of native houses, -he made his way to the room next to that held by the sepoy. Hearing a -sound, the sepoy half-opened the door and thrust out his rifle. Pushing -the rifle aside with one hand, Mr. Hertz shot the man dead with his -revolver, receiving a slight wound in the encounter. This is the way -these things are managed in Burma. - -Bhamo was then the headquarters of the district which included the -country bordering on China and Tibet, all the present Myitkyina -district, Mogaung, and the Jade Mines. The column under Major C. H. E. -Adamson, which visited Mogaung and the Jade Mines, had just returned, -having secured the submission of Kansi La and Kansi Naung, the Kachin -chiefs of the Jade Mines tract.[204] Soon afterwards occurred the -assault on Mogaung, gallantly repulsed by Gurkha military police -under Captain Hugh O'Donnell[205] and Mr. Lawrence Eliott. Close to -China, from which it is separated by a range of hills, Bhamo is filled -by a strange variety of races. Chinese, stalwart traders of Yunnan; -Panthays, survivors of the great rebellion; Shans, Shan-Chinese, -Shan-Burmans, Kachins of many divers tribes, give life and colour and -speak a Babel of tongues in the bazaar. Driving along one of the roads -leading out of the town, the traveller is impressed by a sign-post -bearing the legend-- - - TO CHINA. - -Not many miles away the peaks of the Kachin Hills rise in the eastern -sky. Across these hills come caravans[206] from T'Êngyüeh (Momien) and -Manwaing, in those days paying toll to the Kachins for leave to pass. -Through these hills marched the ill-fated Margary before he attempted -his fatal return journey. Through them in later days, with happier -omens, walked Dr. Morrison at the end of his adventurous pilgrimage. A -few miles below the town of Bhamo the Irrawaddy runs through a narrow, -rock-bound gorge known as the Second Defile. Conspicuous on the right -bank looms the tall Elephant Rock, crowned by a small golden pagoda. -I have had the rare experience of passing through the defile by the -light of the full moon. The silver light on the towering crags, the -silence and the solitude, created an effect full of mystery and charm. -Emerging from the defile, we reach the town of Shwegu, whence, gazing -on the sunset painting with gorgeous colours the western hills, one -realizes "the incomparable pomp of eve." Above Bhamo the river pierces -a still more gloomy, precipitous, whirlpool-haunted gorge, the First -Defile. In the dry months, from November to April, this defile is -navigable by launches, and with reasonable care the passage can be made -without risk. In the rains it is closed to all traffic except that of -country boats and timber rafts. Once, long ago, two gallant officers -came through in a launch as late as May. They had no wish to repeat -the experiment. When in full flood, to traverse the defile even in a -boat is an adventure requiring nerve and skill. On the upward course -the boat is towed laboriously for many weary days. If the rope slips, -the work of days may be lost in a few minutes. Down-stream the journey -is far more rapid and even more hazardous. I do not think any British -officer has been drowned in the defile, but several of my friends -have lost their baggage. At least one launch lies in its fathomless -depths. At any time the passage through the defile is full of interest -and excitement. Nothing can surpass the wild beauty of its winding, -rock-bound course. Here, in mid-stream, a sharp boulder has to be -shunned; there careful steering is needed lest the vessel be spun round -in a whirlpool; now we seem to be driving straight against a wall of -stone. To leave Burma without traversing the First Defile is to miss -one of the sights of the world. - -Another tour led me across the Shwebo district, then in the Northern -Division, where my old friend Mr. B. K. S. MacDermott was in charge. -The township officer was Maung Tun, K.S.M., afterwards Extra Assistant -Commissioner, a local officer of remarkable ability and of proved -courage and loyalty. His father, Bo Pyin, had been Wun of Shwebo, and -had retired at an advanced age. He is the man already mentioned who -shocked his pious serious-minded son by retaining his passion for the -chase. - -Here is the city of Alaungpaya; here Mindôn Min raised the standard of -revolt against his brother. Shwebo was always a turbulent district, -the seed-bed of sedition; it retained that character long after the -annexation. At this time it was fairly quiet; we rode through it with -a moderate escort. As we left the town we saw approaching a long line -of Burmans, in carts and on foot, men, women, and children. "All these -people," said the Deputy Commissioner with pride, "are coming in to -my new bazaar." On inquiry, we ascertained that they were really all -coming in to be vaccinated. This is an example of the good sense and -lack of prejudice so often found among Burmans. Years before, the -people of Pantanaw had begged for a vaccinator. If proper facilities -were provided, the whole population of Burma could be vaccinated -without recourse to compulsion. Only the inefficiency and corruption -of an underpaid staff and the untrustworthy quality of the lymph have -retarded this desirable consummation. I am glad to say that these -defects have now been, or are in process of being, remedied. - -From Shwebo we crossed the Katha district and came to Kawlin on the -verge of the Shan State of Wuntho.[207] This State, inconveniently -situated in the midst of regularly administered districts, was -left under its native chief till the year 1891. Shortly before the -annexation the Sawbwa, a capable truculent man, had been transferred -as Wun to Mogaung for the purpose of suppressing a Kachin rising. He -accomplished the task with devastating completeness. In Wuntho he -was succeeded by his son, a timid creature quite unlike the savage -swashbuckler who begot him. Vain efforts had been made to induce the -young chief to meet our officers, Mr. Burgess himself and the Kinwun -Mingyi having visited Wuntho for the purpose without success. Once the -Sawbwa did meet Mr. E. P. Cloney, Extra Assistant Commissioner. The -issue was unfortunate. At the conference, owing to a misunderstanding, -a tumult arose and the Shan retainers drew their swords. Mr. Cloney's -life would have been sacrificed but for the presence of mind of the -Sawbwa, who clasped him in his arms and shielded him from attack. This -is the solitary occasion on which the Sawbwa showed any sign of courage -or resolution. Only once again he met a British officer, Mr. H. F. P. -Hall,[208] afterwards Assistant Commissioner. Though I went to Wuntho -with only half a dozen sowars, the Sawbwa declined the meeting and -bolted to his remote fortress at Pinlebu. When, owing to the survey of -the projected railway-line, the long-existing tension became acute, -the Sawbwa, after wantonly attacking the adjacent districts, fled with -his father to China. The old man is dead. The son survives in exile -in Yunnan, having long ceased to be an object of apprehension or of -interest to the Burma Government. The State of Wuntho is merged in the -Katha district. - -From August, 1888, till the end of 1890, I acted as Chief Secretary, -Mr. C. G. Bayne being Secretary, and in succession Mr. A. S. Fleming, -Mr. F. C. Gates,[209] and Mr. D. H. R. Twomey,[210] Junior (or Under) -Secretary. These were years of abnormal stress in the office, which -was still undermanned. The appointment of Mr. Fryer to be Financial -Commissioner afforded us some relief. But though a good deal of his -work was done in direct communication with the Chief Commissioner, part -of the revenue business necessarily was transacted by the Secretariat. -These were my really strenuous years. The practice of dictation to -shorthand writers was not yet in vogue; I have never acquired the -habit. Day after day, Sundays included, I did my spell of work in -office and then wrote on far into the night at home, kept awake by -coffee and protected from mosquitoes by Burman cheroots. Six hours of -sleep sufficed. Though I wrote rapidly, I was not a quick worker. I -dare say other men would have done as much with less effort. Life in -the Secretariat presented few incidents which seem worthy of record. -The real work was being done in the districts, in the Shan States, in -the Chin Hills. - -These years witnessed the completion of the pacification and settlement -of Upper Burma, and what may be called the resettlement of Lower Burma. -The details of the work in Upper Burma have been described in Sir -Charles Crosthwaite's book.[211] The organization of the military and -civil police was perfected by the administrative ability of General -Stedman, the Inspector-General, who was a tower of strength to the -Government. Dacoit bands were dispersed, their leaders captured or -killed, the rank and file in many cases allowed to surrender and -return to their homes on suitable terms. Admirable, unobtrusive work -was done by military, civil, and police officers, who by degrees bore -down opposition and broke the forces of disorder. The most potent -instrument in the final establishment of settled administration was the -village law planned by Sir Charles Crosthwaite himself. This invaluable -enactment created the village as the unit of administration, and placed -the village headman in a position of authority and responsibility. He -became the local judge and magistrate, with limited but sufficient -power to enforce his orders. As far as possible the office was -made hereditary, but the people were consulted in the appointment. -Henceforth the post, though not one of great emolument, instead of -being avoided, was eagerly sought.[212] The village law did much -more than elevate the headman. It enforced the joint responsibility -of villagers for offences committed within their borders, for stolen -property traced to the village tract. The Deputy Commissioner -was legally empowered to require villages to be duly fenced. All -able-bodied men were bound under penalties to turn out to resist any -unlawful attack. Above all, subject to carefully devised safeguards, -power was given to the local authorities to order the temporary removal -of persons found to be in sympathy with outlaws. No measure was more -efficacious than this to secure the destruction of dacoit gangs by -depriving them of support and sustenance. These are among the most -important provisions of the village law which has done more than gun -and sword to assure permanent peace. The revenue system was formalized -as far as our limited knowledge allowed on the lines of Burmese law and -custom. Meanwhile, the border lands were not neglected. Of the Shan -States some mention will be made presently. The Chins might have lived -unmolested in their hills, but they could not give up their rooted -habit of raiding villages in the plains. The plundering of peaceful -hamlets, the carrying off of living captives and the heads of the -slain, provoked inevitable reprisals. Happily the policy of slaying, -burning, and scuttling was not adopted. After laborious operations, the -Chins were thoroughly subjugated and disarmed. Military police posts -were established in their midst. They are now peaceful and amenable to -law. The names honourably associated with the arduous task of settling -these rugged hills are those of Major F. D. Raikes, C.I.E., General -Sir W. Penn Symons, Mr. B. S. Carey, C.I.E., Mr. D. Ross, Mr. D. J. C. -Macnabb,[213] Captain F. M. Rundall,[214] Mr. E. O. Fowler, and Mr. H. -N. Tuck. Here, too, Captain Le Quesne[215] won the Victoria Cross by -gallantly tending a wounded officer under fire from a stockade. The -Kachin Hills and the State of Wuntho alone remained for settlement in -later years. - -No detailed story of the restoration of order in Lower Burma has -yet been given to the world; nor does it lie within the scheme of -these personal reminiscences to supply the omission. The outbreak of -disturbance at the end of 1885 has already been mentioned. For years -crime continued to be rampant. A few figures may be given. In 1886 the -number of dacoities was 2,183; in 1887, 1,387; in 1888, 695; in 1889, -332; in 1890, 181. Serious risings there were: one in Tavoy in 1888, -quelled by Colonel Adamson and Mr. Twomey; one in Sandaway, sternly -repressed by Mr. Bernard Houghton, who at the outset nearly fell a -victim to the insurgents. But in the period now under reference it was -not so much a question of dealing, as in Upper Burma, with organized -resistance on a large scale as of suppressing countless small, isolated -gangs. The strict enforcement of the Village Act, framed on the lines -indicated above, and vigorous disarmament carried out in the face of -ignorant and factious criticism, were among the most efficient means -of restoring peace. The plan of placing a defined area in charge -of a specially selected officer invested with large powers for the -suppression of crime was tried with excellent effect. Pyuntazá, in -Shwegyin, was reduced to order by Mr. Todd-Naylor, to whom the Chief -Commissioner gave a free hand with abundant support. Boldest, most -strenuous, most untiring of men, traversing vast distances with -incredible speed on the scantiest fare, facing every danger and -enduring every hardship, there, and soon afterwards in Tharrawaddy, Mr. -Todd-Naylor earned great and well-merited renown. For the first, and so -far the only, time in its history, Tharrawaddy was at rest. In every -district solid work was done, and by degrees normal conditions were -established. - -An event which I recall with interest was the visit to Rangoon of -the celebrated traveller, Mr. Colborne Baber, of the China Consular -Service, deputed to Burma in connection with the proposed demarcation -of the Chinese boundary. Baber was one of the elect of travellers. Not -only did he make hazardous and scientifically important journeys, but -he also had the gift of letters, so that his records have a place in -literature. A man of genius, a born explorer, of various and versatile -accomplishments, he was, I believe, a sinologist of distinction, -and certainly a scholar of no mean attainment. Before proceeding to -Bhamo to study the boundary question on the spot, he was our guest -for some days in Rangoon. These are days of happy memory, made bright -by his luminous and inspiring talk, his distinguished and attractive -personality. He seemed to live principally on cigarettes, and cared -too little for a body not physically strong. Early in 1890 he died -at Bhamo, mainly from weakness caused by his own neglect of material -comfort. His premature death was a loss to the State, and a lasting -grief to his friends. - -More than once in these two years I visited Mandalay in attendance on -the Chief Commissioner, sometimes occupying my old quarters in the -Palace, sometimes enjoying the hospitality of Government House. One -trivial incident illustrates the state of the country even close to -the capital of Upper Burma. Rather late one night a friend[216] called -me out of my quarters to go to see a fire. Having seen as many fires -as would satisfy the most morbid craving, I cannot think why this fire -attracted me. However, we went. As usual, the scene was much farther -off than we thought. Passing out of the city gate, we walked for some -miles across the fields till we came at last to a village where houses -were still blazing. It had been plundered and burnt by Bo To, the most -prominent leader then afoot in the district. The police were there -before us, and the dacoits had disappeared. As we were alone, armed -only with walking-sticks, perhaps it was lucky that we did not arrive -an hour or two sooner. - -The last day of February, 1889, saw the formal opening of the railway -from Toungoo to Mandalay. The occasion was celebrated with some pomp, -Sir Charles Eliott,[217] K.C.S.I., Public Works Member, representing -the Government of India. Later in the year, during the absence of -Sir Charles Crosthwaite on privilege leave for three months, Mr. A. -P. MacDonnell,[218] Home Secretary to the Government of India, acted -as Chief Commissioner. Mr. MacDonnell was, of course, innocent of -any knowledge of the country or the people. I doubt whether this -brief interlude of administering a strange Province could have been -a satisfactory experience to him. I am under the impression that the -Chief Secretary's work was materially increased. - -At the end of 1889 Burma was honoured by the visit of His Royal -Highness Prince Albert Victor of Wales (the late Duke of Clarence), who -spent some days in Rangoon and Mandalay. The Royal visit was highly -appreciated by the Burmese, as well as by the European community, and -was celebrated with much demonstration of genuine spontaneous loyalty. -Chief of His Royal Highness's staff was the late Sir Edward Bradford, -whose high qualities it were superfluous to praise. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -A VISIT TO THE SHAN STATES - - -The Shan States occupy the whole of the eastern side of Upper Burma, -and border on French Indo-China, China, and Siam. It is sometimes -erroneously supposed that they are independent or semi-independent -States, on the same footing as native States in India. From Theinni -in the north to Mobye in the south, from the Myelat in the west to -Kyaingtôn in the far east, these States were an integral part of the -Burmese kingdom, over which the Burmese assertion of sovereignty -was never abandoned or successfully resisted. Burmese Residents and -garrisons were maintained. Though there were rebellions, revolts, -and massacres, though in King Thebaw's time the bonds of authority -were loosened, independence was never established. Each State was -administered by its own chief, Sawbwa, Myosa, or Ngwekunhmu, appointed -or recognized by the Burmese Government, and very practically subject -to the King and his Council. Consequently, when we succeeded to the -sovereignty of Burma, the Shan States became as much an integral -part of British India as any district of Upper Burma. To speak of -the annexation of a Shan State is incorrect. Those States, such as -Wuntho and Kale, which have ceased to be governed by their own chiefs, -have been, not annexed, but taken under direct administration. The -distinction between the Shan States and the rest of Burma is one not -of political status, but of administrative method. The Legislative -Councils of India and Burma make laws for the Shan States as for other -parts of the Province. This power was exercised as long ago as 1886 -in the first Statute relating to Upper Burma. The principle has been -consistently maintained. The States which are really semi-independent, -subject to suzerainty, are those of Karenni. The historical explanation -is that before we took Upper Burma we strenuously maintained that -Karenni was not part of the King's dominions. When we succeeded to the -King's rights, we could not decently assert the contrary. But though -there is a theoretical distinction, in practice Karenni is as much -under control as the Shan States. - -[Illustration: PAGODA AT MONÈ.] - -In less than a year from the proclamation which incorporated Upper -Burma in the Empire, surely as speedily as could be expected, an -expedition was despatched to assert our authority in the Shan country. -Colonel Stedman[219] was in command, with Mr. A. H. Hildebrand[220] -and Mr. J. G. Scott[221] as civil officers. A full account of -the operations of the expedition has been given by Sir Charles -Crosthwaite.[222] I need not attempt to tell again the tale of -Mr. Hildebrand's conspicuous success: how he traversed the States, -receiving the submission of the Chiefs and confirming them in their -offices; how by tact and firmness, almost without striking a blow, he -imposed peace on this distracted country; how he became the friend and -monitor, as well as the strict supervisor, of every Chief. Nor must I -yield to the temptation to recount once more the story of Mr. Scott's -gallant feat of arms in the capture of Twet Nga Lu, or of his later -even more splendid display of the courage which dares the impossible -when, with a handful of Gurkhas, he brought to his knees in his own -capital the chief of Kyaingtôn, the largest and most secluded of the -States. Are not these things written in the book so often quoted -in these pages? It is a far cry to the Shan country and across the -Salween, or these tales would be as familiar to Britons as any tale of -chivalry. - -Mr. Hildebrand became the first Superintendent of the Shan States. A -little later they were divided into two groups, Northern and Southern, -under two mutually independent Superintendents working in direct -communication with Government. The Shan States extend over an area -estimated at about 60,000 square miles. Here, as elsewhere in Burma, -our aim has been to administer as far as possible in accordance with -pre-existing custom. Each State is ruled by its own Chief, who has -the power of life and death, appoints his own officials, and manages -his own finances and domestic affairs. The Chiefs administer their -own customary law, subject to the provisions of a very simple code, -probably the shortest since the Decalogue, which lays down a few -general principles and prohibitions. Issued in 1890, it still remains -unaltered. The Chief is appointed by Government, and receives a sanad, -or order of appointment, defining his functions and limitations. He is -under the control of the Superintendent, and, to a less degree, of the -Assistant Superintendents in charge of subdivisions, into which the -States are distributed. These officers have by law extensive powers of -intervention and revision, but as far as possible they abstain from -active interference in the economy of the State. So, too, Government -ordinarily avoids exertion of direct authority, but, if occasion -requires, does not hesitate to deprive a chief of part of his powers, -to change the order of succession, to amalgamate adjacent territories, -to alter boundaries, even, as an extreme measure, to take a State -under direct administration. All receipts from forests and minerals -belong to the general revenues of the Province, rights over forests -and mines being reserved by Government. Subject to this reservation, -Government levies no taxes on the people. Each State pays a fixed sum -annually as tribute, the assessment being revised every ten years. The -demand is moderate, and at the decennial revision pleas for reduction -are indulgently considered. It need hardly be said that the chiefs -are required to keep the peace among themselves. They are responsible -for the good order of their territories, and maintain their own local -police in picturesque uniforms. There is also a small body of regular -police under the civil officers. The garrison consisted at first of -troops, then of military police, then partly of troops and military -police, now again of military police alone. Each group, the Southern -and the Northern, has its own battalion. Such, briefly and in outline, -is the way in which the Shan States were governed five-and-twenty -years ago; such is the way in which they are governed now. Probably -no dependency of so great an extent is administered so inexpensively -or with so little display of force. As a study in administration the -experiment is full of interest, and has been remarkably successful. -In five-and-twenty years there have naturally been changes and -improvements. At first the Chiefs lived for themselves, caring only -for their own ease and comfort, while, as was graphically said, "the -bloodsuckers around them were making hay." Now they are becoming more -enlightened, and beginning to realize their responsibilities. They are -learned in the mysteries of budgets and taxation rolls. Some take a -zealous interest in road-making, in digging canals, in promoting the -growth of new staples, in sanitation and medical relief. Many of the -Chiefs are courteous and intelligent gentlemen, who live on terms of -easy friendship with British officers. Several have visited India, -more are familiar with Rangoon and Mandalay. One Chief, formerly -very shy and reserved, now gallops on our polo-grounds. His ambition -was to visit Rangoon periodically for the purpose of gazing on the -ball-room at Government House, which reminded him of Heaven. When all -is said, it must be remembered that the chiefs are merely officers of -Government of no very high position, like other officers, holding their -appointments during good behaviour. - -The Shans,[223] remnants of the race which once dominated a vast empire -in Eastern Asia, including the whole of Northern Burma to the confines -of Tibet, are now somewhat backward in civilization. A clannish folk, -with the cohesion lacking among Burmans. If you get hold of the chief -you secure his people also. This no doubt facilitated the task of -settlement. Of fierce appearance, to us they seem unwarlike. Once at -least a conflict was stopped by a British officer adopting the simple -expedient of pitching his camp midway between two hostile armies. But -before our coming internecine feuds raged savage and devastating. Like -medieval barons, Chief warred against Chief, laying waste the country. -Populous cities reduced to ruinous heaps gave place to miserable -hamlets. Wide stretches of fertile land, thrown out of cultivation, -became deserts of jungle and tall grass where the tiger made his lair -and the elephant ranged at will. Under the firm and just rule which we -have substituted for the intermittent ferocity of Burmese dominion, the -Shan plateau is reviving, and once more promises to be an orchard and a -harvest-field. Scantiness of population and distance from markets alone -retard the cultivation of wheat, vegetables, and fruit. Now a railway -to the Southern States is being made. If it is not stopped in mid-air, -and if no parsimonious schemes hinder through communication, an era of -prosperity for the Shan country is at hand. - -Early in 1890, I accompanied Sir Charles Crosthwaite on the first visit -paid by a Chief Commissioner to the Southern Shan States. We rode from -the railway at Meiktila road (Thazi), past Hlaingdet, up and along the -customary mule-track to Kalaw, on the border of the Myelat[224] plain. -The cart-road was yet unmade. There was not a cart of any kind in the -Shan country. Kalaw lies in the midst of pine-forests, a perfectly -lovely spot, believed by many to be the future hill-capital of Burma. -It will be an important station on the new railway. Personally, I doubt -whether it will displace Maym[)y]o, though it may well be to Maym[)y]o -what Mussoorie is to Simla. From Kalaw we rode through the Myelat, -fine open country, but intersected by many ravines, to Nyaungywe, on -the edge of the Inle Lake. The chiefs of the Myelat States flocked -to meet the head of the Province, and with bands of wild retainers, -with much clashing of cymbals and beating of gongs, escorted him on -his march. Crossing the lake we came to Fort Stedman, then the civil -and military headquarters. Here the Chief Commissioner halted for -some days, interviewing local officers and many Shan notables, and -holding a Durbar, at which he addressed the assembled Chiefs. These -State visits to Fort Stedman and Taung-gyi, which afterwards became -the Superintendent's headquarters, were full of interest, certainly -to the visitors, probably also to the local inhabitants. I have -assisted at three such visits. From distant hills, from far across the -Salween, come multitudes of strange people eager to do honour to the -representative of their Sovereign. Weird dances by outlandish folk, -grotesque caperings some, others slow melancholy measures, expressed -the popular rejoicing. The lake was alive with boats competing in -exciting races. Men and women took part in these contests. Here you -might see the Sawbwa distribute prizes to victors and vanquished, these -races being of the nature of a caucus-race, and smearing with lime the -foreheads of the losers. You shall also see the lake-dwellers standing -and rowing with legs instead of arms, a difficult and, as one may -think, somewhat useless feat. Many young and ambitious officers have -sought to accomplish it, but in vain. The lake-men row in this way with -perfect ease and skill, but not, I think, faster than a boat paddled in -the ordinary style. - -[Illustration: THE PAUNGDAW--U FESTIVAL.] - -Fort Stedman is well situated in the State of Nyaungywe, one of the -largest and most prosperous of the Southern States. At the time of the -annexation, the Sawbwa was Saw Maung, a man of culture and education, -trained at the Court of Mandalay in all the learning of the Burmans. -Soon after, his cousin Chit Su rebelled against him. In the first fight -Saw Maung was severely wounded, being shot through both thighs. Very -confidingly, he placed his troops and arms at the disposal of his -brother, Saw Ôn, who offered to suppress the revolt. Having done this -effectually, occupied the capital, and tasted the sweets of power, -Saw Ôn declined to make way for the rightful Chief. Forced to retire, -Saw Maung with a small following established himself on the borders -of the Myelat. Thence, anxious to prevent more fighting, Government -summoned him to Mandalay and directed him to stay there in receipt -of an allowance. In the Shan States, as elsewhere, our policy was to -accept existing facts. If the Chief in actual possession was willing -to submit, he was confirmed in his office. When Mr. Hildebrand came -to Nyaungywe, he was warmly welcomed by Saw Ôn, whom he rescued from -a position of much peril. Saw Ôn, therefore, was recognized as Sawbwa -and held charge till his death some years later. He was the chief whom -Sir Charles Crosthwaite found in Nyaungywe, a boisterous uncivilized -person, with some sense of humour, whose loud laugh concealed a mind by -no means vacant of ability and cunning. At his death, Saw Maung[225] -was restored to his State. He proved an excellent ruler, probably the -most enlightened and progressive of the Shan chiefs, full of projects -for the good of his people, and exceedingly popular with all classes. -Though in the early days after his return the lake-men were ready to -rebel against him, not many years later, when Their Royal Highnesses -the Prince and Princess of Wales visited Mandalay, Saw Maung sat in -the boat of the leg-paddlers competing in a race on the moat. - -From Fort Stedman we returned by the way we came, the Chief Commissioner -for my sake considerately riding the last three marches in one day. -According to the original programme, if we had missed the train I -should have missed also the steamer which was to take me home on my -first leave. I caught the steamer and enjoyed the leave, which lasted -a few days over three months. I cannot say that I enjoyed the return -journey from Calcutta in the middle of the monsoon, seeing no sun nor -star, in a boat on which cockroaches of gigantic stature vied with -myriads of red ants in making life hideous. - -I remained in Rangoon as Chief Secretary till the end of the year, when -the Secretariat was reorganized and strengthened. Mr. Symes came back -as Chief Secretary. I was appointed to be a Divisional Commissioner, -but was seconded for duty as a Secretary till I went on furlough early -in 1891. Mr. Mackenzie[226] became Chief Commissioner, Sir Charles -Crosthwaite going to Council. The work of pacification and organization -was completed. Conscious of a great trust worthily discharged, the most -eminent of Burma's rulers moved on to fresh fields of action, less -thrilling but not less honourable. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -RANGOON--MANDALAY - - -When I returned early in 1893, Mr. Fryer was acting as Chief -Commissioner during Sir Alexander Mackenzie's absence on leave; Mr. -Symes was still Chief Secretary. For a few weeks I was on special duty -examining and abstracting the documentary evidence concerning the -boundary between Burma and China, then in the acute stage of discussion -between the two Governments. After this was done, for a short time -I held charge of the Pegu division. It was a most unsatisfactory -appointment. The Commissioner was still Sessions Judge, and, though -assisted by a coadjutor, took a full share of the original and -appellate work. Piled on top of the revenue and administrative duties, -this formed a mountain which no one could scale. However strenuously -the Commissioner laboured, however much he accomplished, he felt that -as much or more remained undone. This was worse than the Secretariat, -where, with diligence, one could keep abreast of the files. - -The one exciting incident of my brief tenure of this office was the -riot in Rangoon between Mohammedans and Hindus in June, 1893. In Burma -we were accustomed to a mild and tolerant religion, and had little -acquaintance with the fierce fanaticism of warring sects. We resented -bitterly the stirring up of strife by Mohammedans and Hindus in a -land where they were strangers and pilgrims, hospitably received and -treated with courtesy and consideration. Just as if guests should hurl -decanters at one another across their host's dinner-table. It is not -quite accurate to say that Burmans dislike and despise Indians. They -welcome them with large-hearted tolerance, and live amicably side by -side with them. But the Burman regards himself as a superior being, -much superior to anyone, except, perhaps, even this is doubtful, a -European. And he does resent Indians being placed in authority over him. - -The occasion of this unusual and unnecessary tumult was the Mohammedan -festival of Bakr-i-id. Though in Burma we have, I think, a slight -leaning to the side of Mohammedans, whose religion is less puzzling -to the lay mind than the abstruse mythology of the Hindus, I am bound -to say that this time the Mohammedans were entirely in the wrong. In -Twenty-ninth Street, a narrow thoroughfare of no good name, stood a -Hindu temple of some repute. Having the rest of Rangoon practically -at their disposal, the Mohammedans declared it essential to sacrifice -their cow close to this temple. Forbidden by the magistrate to do this, -it was expected that they would set at naught the prohibition. Such -precautions as seemed necessary were taken by the Deputy Commissioner, -Mr. A. S. Fleming, who was in close communication with me and with the -Chief Secretary, Mr. Fryer being absent on tour. We determined to do -the best with the police before calling out troops. Military and civil -police patrols were organized; and early on Sunday morning, the great -day of the feast, a fairly strong picket of military police, partly -Mohammedans and partly Hindus, was posted at the top of Twenty-ninth -Street. All local and civil officers, as well as others not immediately -concerned, were in the town. The streets were thronged with people, -Mohammedans in holiday attire, Hindus ready to make mischief, both -sides spoiling for a fight. From the top of Twenty-ninth Street -could be seen the great mosque in Mogul Street, crowded with excited -worshippers. For a time, though the tension was extreme, nothing -happened. One high official, who was present as a sightseer, asked -wherefore the rioting did not begin. Before long he was satisfied. -The crowd became a seething mass. A rush was made to force the picket -holding Twenty-ninth Street. Then stones began to fly, and all was -confusion. Sowars[227] cleared the street, but as soon as the charge -was past the roadway was again filled with rioters. Mr. Fleming had his -head cut open by a stone. My thick topi[228] saved me from a similar -mishap, and I was struck by missiles more than once. The spot near the -objective of strife, where several of us were standing, became a very -warm corner. It seemed advisable to summon troops. My friend Mr. E. W. -B. Summers volunteered to ride up to barracks, running the gauntlet -of showers of stones from street and houses. That shots were fired -from windows was said, but this is not within my knowledge. At last it -became clear that the small party of police and officials at the top -of Twenty-ninth Street was in imminent danger of being wiped out. I -therefore told the senior military police officer to take the necessary -measures to stop the riot. A file of men was ordered out, and a volley -was fired, causing some loss of life. As if by magic, the uproar ceased -in a moment. At first, by my order, blank cartridge was fired, but -without effect. It has since been definitely ordered that on these -occasions blank cartridge is never to be used. I dare say I am wrong. -Certainly the weight of authority is against me. But if I used my own -judgment, in a similar emergency, as a measure of humanity, I should -again try first the effect of blank firing. The statement made at the -time that blank fire only infuriated the mob is quite baseless. It had -no effect whatever. By the time the troops arrived all was quiet. The -soldiers marched through the streets and were picketed in the town, and -there was no further disorder. - -This is the story of the riot of 1893 as pictured in my memory. Yet -such is the fallibility of human testimony that accounts written -immediately afterwards by myself and two other officers, all close -together at the time, differed on material points. This was a useful -lesson to me in dealing with the evidence of eye-witnesses, especially -in times of excitement. Defects of observation and lapses of memory -cause discrepancies in the stories of witnesses whose sole desire is to -tell the truth. The stern suppression of this wicked and wanton riot -kept the peace in Rangoon for twenty years. At first, as Bakr-i-id -came round, troops were posted in the town. But there has been no -disturbance, and display of military force has been discontinued. I do -not think Indians bore me any ill-will for the part taken by me in this -affair. To the end of my service many of them remained my good friends. -Within a couple of months of the riot my wife and I were welcomed at -the Mohurram in Mandalay, listened to the sad story of Hassan and -Hussein, and watched the fiery rites of that impressive celebration. - -In the middle of 1893 I became Commissioner of the Northern Division. -The country was perfectly quiet and in order. Settled times had -succeeded the bustle and confusion of the pacification. There was -now leisure to prepare and execute projects for the benefit of the -people. First among these was the Mu Valley Railway, which runs from -Sagaing to Myit-kyina, opening up the fertile, land-locked plains of -Wuntho, where a year or two earlier unhusked rice sold for ten rupees -a hundred baskets, and rich lands farther north. A branch runs to -Katha, on the Irrawaddy, below Bhamo, with which there is connection -by ferry. Between Mandalay and Sagaing there is still a gap in the -system. As soon as funds are available the Irrawaddy must be bridged, -and through communication established from Rangoon to Myit-kyina. Even -more important than the railway were two great irrigation schemes -for watering the dry districts of Mandalay and Shwebo. These were -being examined and matured. When I rode through Shwebo in the autumn -of this year with the Deputy Commissioner, Mr. G. W. Shaw,[229] the -fields were as hard as the stony-hearted pavement of Oxford Street. -Anxiously the people watched the sky, longing for the appearance of the -smallest cloud. Rice was scarce, and edible roots formed the staple -fare of the peasantry. We were perilously near the Famine Code. In -those days, if Shwebo had one good year in three, it reckoned itself -fortunate. Luckily, at harvest-time there was always work in Lower -Burma; and if the season failed, crowds streamed down to the teeming -rice-fields of the Delta, whence they honourably remitted sustenance -for the women, the aged, and the infirm left in their homes. Though -emigration is easy and common enough, most Burmans are strongly -attached to their birthplace, and cling with passionate affection -to their ancestral lands. Mortgages are kept alive for a century or -more, the hope of regaining possession being abandoned with extreme -reluctance. Thus, though many farmers from the sterile north took up -land in the Delta and made new homes, the majority hastened back to -their native districts at the faintest prospect of a good season. Now -in Shwebo, thanks to the Irrigation Canal, the face of the country is -changed. Thousands of acres formerly dependent on precarious rainfall -receive ample and regular supplies of water, and are under continuous -cultivation. The pretty song of the women as they plant out the -seedlings from the pyogin[230] is doubtless heard as of yore, now not -intermittently, but each year as the season recurs. A District which -was too often a barren waste is now a rich harvest-field, giving grain -not only for local use, but for export. Similar good results have been -obtained in the Mandalay district by similar means. These irrigation -systems, which not only enrich the people, but also yield a handsome -revenue, were planned and executed with all the skill and science of -irrigation engineers experienced in such work in the Punjab. They were -based on the old Burmese works, which had fallen into disrepair, and -which at no time were sufficiently well planned and managed to secure -regular crops. - -On the borders, the Kachins had been reduced to order and had become -for the most part a law-abiding people. No longer were they permitted -to levy toll on passing caravans, or to raid and oppress the plain -villages at the foot of their hills. Their subjugation had not been -effected without difficulty. In 1891 and 1892 there was severe fighting -at Sima and Sadôn; and as recently as Christmas, 1892, Myitkyina had -been attacked and burnt by a raiding party from the north. But when -they had been well beaten, and when posts had been established at -various points, the hillmen rapidly settled down. The discontinuance -of their lawless practices was more than compensated by the wealth -acquired as payment for services rendered to our officers and -military police garrisons. The Kachins, in which name may be included, -conveniently if unscientifically, many kindred tribes speaking -different dialects and following diverse customs, are sturdy fellows, -peopling the hills of the Bhamo district, on the borders of China and -Tibet. As a race, they have the vigour and vitality characteristic of -mountaineers. They are distinctly one of the most progressive races of -Burma, and, but for our advent, would have penetrated gradually far -into the plains of Burma and the Shan States. Washed and brushed up, -many Kachins show signs of a high order of intelligence. - -At this time the Bhamo district still included all the Kachin country, -Myitkyina not being yet constituted a separate charge. Mainly by -the genius of Mr. E. C. S. George,[231] the system of managing the -tribesmen was evolved. The hills were divided into administered and -unadministered tracts. In the latter there were no posts, and no -interference was attempted. So long as their inhabitants abstained -from raids and outrages in the settled country; so long, as was -somewhat crudely said, as they confined their zeal for slaughter to -their own borders, they were at liberty to do as they pleased. No -officers visited them, summoned them to appear, or exacted any tax or -tribute. Travellers crossed the administrative line at their own risk, -Government accepting no responsibility for their safety, and refusing -to exact reparation if they suffered wrong. Our sovereignty over these -tracts was not abandoned; it was merely left in abeyance. From time -to time the administrative line has been varied. On this side of the -line Government undertook to preserve order and to punish misconduct. -The administered country was dominated by police posts and placed in -charge of the Deputy Commissioner and his assistants. Control light but -effective was enforced. A simple code was promulgated, care being taken -to avoid the creation of artificial offences and undue interference -with local customs. Each village-tract had its own headman, with -fairly extensive powers, appointed by the Deputy Commissioner. In -early days the headman was rather absurdly called Sawbwa; with fuller -knowledge the title of Duwa was adopted. Periodically in the open -season, the Deputy Commission and his Assistants, with suitable -escorts, made set tours through the hills, trying cases, settling -disputes, and collecting the moderate tribute or household tax, the -only revenue raised from the Kachins. This patriarchal system, which -was gradually perfected, has succeeded admirably. Since the beginning -of 1893, only one serious disturbance[232] has broken the peace of the -Kachin country. The orderly condition of our hill-tracts afforded a -pleasing contrast to the state of those close at hand under Chinese -control, where complete indifference alternated with savage measures of -repression. - -Affairs on the Chinese border gave some trouble. The boundary had -been declared, but not yet demarcated. Its actual location being still -undetermined, it was difficult to prevent encroachments, some of which -were designed to strengthen the Chinese case when the border-line came -to be settled. We had to correspond directly with Chinese officers at -Yunnan-fu and T'Êngyüeh, consular officers at these places not having -yet been appointed. On the whole, the Chinese were not bad neighbours. -We certainly were not afraid of them, but were able to take a correct -measure of their power as of their diplomacy. - -At the end of the year 1893, just at the close of his turn of office, -the Viceroy, Lord Lansdowne, came to Burma. With Lady Lansdowne, he -visited Mandalay, went up the river as far as Bhamo, and by launch -through the First Defile to Sinbo. In His Excellency's party were Sir -Henry Brackenbury,[233] Military Member of Council; Sir John Ardagh, -Private Secretary; Mr. W. J. Cuningham,[234] Foreign Secretary; -and once more Lord William Beresford as Military Secretary. The -administration of the Kachin Hills and the Chinese boundary was -discussed on the spot by the Viceroy with the Chief Commissioner -and his local officers. At Bhamo the Viceroy held a Durbar on the -house-boat in which the Chief Commissioner was wont to travel in -comfort, if not in luxury. Kachin Duwas came in crowds and laid spears -and elephant tusks and embroidered cloths at His Excellency's feet, -receiving more valuable gifts in return. On shore weird Kachin dances -were performed mid unseasonable rain, which damped the revels. It -was a pity, for at the best a Kachin dance is a depressing ceremony, -something like "Here we go round the mulberry bush," played by tired -children. At Mandalay, in the golden-pillared Western Hall of Audience, -a fitting setting for so brilliant a scene, another Durbar was held, -glittering with uniforms of British officers and gay with the bright -Court dresses of Burman and Shan notables. - -This cold season I toured in the hills for some weeks and in the -pleasantest company. Captain Bower,[235] having covered himself -with glory by hunting down the murderer of Dalgleish and earned -fresh laurels by his adventurous march across Tibet, came over to -gather honey for the Intelligence hive. Mr. George, who made all the -bandobast[236] for the tour, was more at home among Kachins than any -man of his time. Starting from Waing-maw, we marched inland to Sima, -the scene of a fierce struggle not many months before, where Morton met -a soldier's death and Captain Lloyd[237] won the Victoria Cross. So -close to the border that in the first Boundary Convention, concluded -when our diplomatists were in great awe of China's puissance, it was -assigned to our neighbours, Sima was a little outpost in the hills. -Surrounded by a stockade, a ditch, and barbed-wire entanglements, it -was strong enough to resist any probable attack. Officers and men -were housed in huts of mud or mat, stores and ammunition in sheds of -corrugated iron. Long since these primitive posts have been replaced -by substantial forts built on scientific plans. A line of them holds -the frontier and dominates the hills. From Sima we struck northward -to Sadôn, then our farthest outpost. We strolled at leisure; along -forest paths up and down hill; across clear mountain-streams, sometimes -at a ford, sometimes by a swaying bridge hastily made of bamboos -with a carpet of long grass, sometimes on a raft or rude dugout; -through thriving Kachin villages perched on crests of hills, where -the barbarous people showed us no little kindness, offering fruits -from their Taungyas[238] and encouraging us to explore their long, low -thatched houses. A stretch of the march led easily over the saddle of -a range of hills. In the morning the valleys were covered with a veil -of mist; as this dispersed, at our feet were spread fertile plains, -and in the distance gleamed the Irrawaddy like a silver thread. Our -escort was a score of mounted military police, our transport mules -from China. Early, but not too early, we rose and took a substantial -chota haziri[239] beside the camp-fire while the mules were loading -up. Chinese muleteers have many good points, but they need handling, -and submit with reluctance to interference with their little ways. You -may hearken, but their voice is not in heaven before the lark. Even -when they have been roused from slumber, it is any odds that two or -three mules have wandered off in the night and have to be sought with -vituperation best left obscure. The actual loading is comparatively -simple. The baggage is tied to a wooden saddle which is lifted on to -the mule's back and left there unfastened. At that season, at the -height of some three or four thousand feet, the climate was perfect, -cool, and bright. We could march all day without inconvenience. Once -started, we walked and rode, staying now and then to interview headmen -and villagers with special reference to an inquiry into the opium -habit which I was making for my own satisfaction, till we reached our -halting-place, on the bank of a crystal stream. One inviolable rule -was enforced. The sumpter mule always headed the cavalcade. After a -dip in the river, while tents were being pitched we breakfasted under -a shady tree at any hour from one to five, as the length of the march -determined. The best servant in the camp was Captain Bower's Pathan, -a hook-nosed ruffian from the North-West Frontier, who had been in -every scrap on the border for a generation. When he raised his finger, -the other servants fled gibbering. After dinner, the day's work over, -he relaxed. In a leafy bower, like a figure from the Arabian Nights, -smoking a hookah he sat holding enthralled a breathless audience with, -one fondly hoped, stories of adventure. Perhaps he was only discussing -prices in the bazaar. Next to him, _longo intervallo_, was the Kachin -Zinaw who acted as interpreter and handyman. He began the march -speaking Chinese, Shan, Burmese, and several Kachin dialects; he ended -with a working knowledge of English and Hindustani. Zinaw was a man -of great intelligence, but not of lofty principle. For negotiating -the passage of a rushing stream, or for hastily rigging up a camp, he -was invaluable. Some years he flourished, till misdirected ingenuity -brought him to grief. His last service to Government was rendered, I -believe, in the Bhamo Jail. - -Up to Sadôn we climbed with labour and heavy sorrow, each height -surmounted revealing our goal apparently as distant as ever, till -we were fain to sit down in the dust and weep. Drever, the post -commandant, an athlete of renown, explained the special advantage of -life at Sadôn. Whenever you went for a walk you had to descend 2,000 -feet and climb up again. So you kept in condition. In posts like this -one or two civil and military police officers spent the months guarding -the marches. Occasional tours were welcome interludes. The work was not -very arduous, and there was a blessed lack of files and records. But -it was a hard life, with few amenities, often drearily monotonous. Our -frontier officers cheerfully endured this isolated existence, and kept -bright their country's honour among the hill tribes. - -Still passing northward, we reached the bank of the 'Nmaikha, the -main branch of the Irrawaddy, which, starting from a source still -unascertained, joins the Mali-kha some thirty miles above Myitkyina. -We camped at 'Nsentaru Ferry, forbidden to cross, as the _enclave_ -between the two rivers is unadministered territory. A scene of savage -beauty, with hills on every side, the distant peaks on the Chinese -border white with snow. We rambled upstream and along the bank of the -'Nmaikha, farther than any of our officers had yet penetrated.[240] -Returning to camp at midday, we bathed in the ice-cold water of the -river, fresh from the snowy hills. - -From 'Nsentaru we marched through Kwitu and across the Irrawaddy to -Myitkyina, then the headquarters of a subdivision. It was but a small -village, with very humble public buildings, well placed on a high bank -of the river, whose waters flowed clear as crystal. Now it is the -terminus of the railway, a flourishing town, with many Indian settlers, -the resort of fishermen who catch mahseer of ever-increasing weight. We -rode to the confluence where the 'Nmaikha and Mali-kha join to form the -Irrawaddy, more than a thousand miles from the sea; a very picturesque -spot, with the mountain-streams rushing and tumbling over rocks and -boulders. We returned on rafts, and were privileged to shoot the rapids -which impede the navigation of the river above Myitkyina. They are not -much to boast of as rapids, but the raftsmen made a fat fuss, shouting -and hustling as we toiled through the eddies. - -From Myitkyina we rode inland to Mogaung, a singularly unpleasant -town, important as a trading centre. In the regions north-west of -Mogaung comes almost all the jade yet discovered; the rest is found -in Turkestan. Though lovely and ornamental, jade is not classed as a -precious stone, and has little vogue in Europe except for hilts of -daggers in ladies' novels. Chinese merchants have a practical monopoly, -and most of the stone goes to China, where it is properly appreciated -by a nation of artistic taste. The right of levying _ad valorem_ duty -on all jade brought to Mogaung is farmed out by Government. As the -value of a piece of jade in the rough cannot be determined accurately, -the business of dealing and of farming is distinctly speculative. The -value is revealed by cutting; the duty is paid on uncut stones. The -farmer assesses the duty on any piece of stone brought in. The owner -has the option of either paying the duty or selling it to the farmer at -the farmer's valuation. This plan insures fair dealing on both sides. -But there is always the attractive element of chance. Except for the -jade business and some historic associations, Mogaung was a dull and -uninteresting place. Our objective was the lovely lake of Indawgyi, -which I was not to see till nearly twenty years after.[241] - -Sudden news came of a Kachin rising on the eastern frontier. The escort -of a civil officer had been attacked, and had suffered some loss. The -border might be ablaze. The Deputy Commissioner must hasten to the -spot; nor could the Commissioner remain unconcerned. We rode to Sinbo -next day, covering nearly fifty miles on one pony apiece, carrying no -kit and taking no attendants, our rations in our saddle-bags. At Sinbo -we found a launch and all necessary comforts provided by Mr. George's -forethought. Next day, as soon as the morning mist had lifted, the -launch started, and in two minutes was fast on a sandbank. Not all the -labours of the villagers, who turned out _en masse_, availed to move -it a foot. Resolved to reach Bhamo that day, we took a small boat and -began the passage of the Defile. It was plain paddling with the stream, -but parlous slow, and hot and cramped. When we were about half-way -through, our luck changed. We met a Government launch, which we boarded -and turned about. So at sundown we landed at Bhamo. Half an hour later -the launch abandoned at Sinbo also arrived. - -Next morning we set out for the frontier. Riding most of the day and -night, stumbling after dark on narrow ridges[242] between rice-fields, -at about midnight we came into camp, not without some slight risk of -being shot by a zealous sentry. All escorts within range having been -bidden by telegraph and signal to combine, quite a considerable force -of military police and a dozen British officers were assembled. It was -as if the Deputy Commissioner, fulfilling Pompey's thrasonical boast, -had stamped upon the ground and raised legions. This sudden show of -strength, coupled with Mr. George's tact and management, speedily -restored peace. Leaving him to distribute rewards and penalties, I -rode back with a tin of bully beef for sustenance, and a couple of -sowars as escort. On the way I slept at the Kachin village of Pônkan, -where I was hospitably entertained by the Duwa, who not many years -before had literally held Bhamo in terror. He was a tall and handsome -savage, but somewhat given to drink. At Bhamo I spent the next hundred -hours in making up six weeks' arrears of office-work. Then I took a -day's rest. - -This was my best tour. But all the travelling in the Northern Division -was full of interest. Mogôk and the Ruby Mines provided an agreeable -interlude. Katha, a pestilential district in the rains, was perfect -marching ground in the dry season. Wuntho, but lately brought into -line, was revisited, and Piulebu, on the bank of the Mu River, once -the Sawbwa's strong place of refuge, inspected. With me rode my old -friend Maung Aung Zan,[243] now subdivisional officer. Though of the -girth regarded as suitable for a high official, and weighing, as he -told me, 45 viss,[244] Aung Zan found a pony to carry him. His local -knowledge was invaluable. We came to Mansi, at the end of the Banmauk -road, which breaks off so abruptly that one feels as if another step -would take one over the world's edge into the abyss. Here was some -excitement, the police post being threatened by a jungle fire rapidly -nearing the wooden stockade. In these remote parts the people, of Shan -race, were primitive folk of simple and engaging manners. Extremely -poor, they earned a scanty livelihood in the forests, or by fishing, or -by laborious cultivation of miscellaneous crops. Here, as elsewhere, -courtesy and hospitality abounded. At the entrance of every village -the headman and villagers came out to welcome us, the girls dressed in -their simple best, bearing offerings of water and flowers. Inspecting -a Court on this tour, I was refreshed by finding a case in which trial -by ordeal for witchcraft was the main incident. The suspected witch was -tied up in the fearless old fashion, and thrown into a stream. As she -sank, and was with difficulty rescued, her innocence was made clear. -The cause of action in the judicial case was her claim for damages for -defamation. She was awarded £4 and costs. - -The Commissionership of the Northern Division was probably the most -interesting office in Burma. Mandalay itself always seemed to me a -goodly place wherein to live. 'Tis true that for a couple of months -or so the heat is great; but though the thermometer rises to 110° or -more, the climate is dry, and yet we do not seem to have the excessive, -suffocating heat, day and night, of the plains of Northern India. -Again, every æsthetic and artistic taste is gratified. Never to be -forgotten are the battlements of the walls, the purple shadows on -the eastern hills, the glowing sunsets on the moat, the splendour of -moonlight in the Palace corridors. The frontier work was absorbing, -and occasionally exciting; the ordinary executive work enough to occupy -one's time without being unduly exacting. Of the touring I have already -tried to create an impression. Just across the road, too, so to speak, -was the new hill-station of May-m[)y]o, then coming into notice. The -railway to Lashio, in the Northern Shan States, was being made, and had -not yet reached May-m[)y]o; but it was easy to get up for a week-end. A -drive of fourteen miles along the Aungbinle-bund to Tônbo, then a ride -of thirty miles, with a change of ponies at Pyintha; with an early -start, May-m[)y]o was reached in time for breakfast. We rode up by the -railway road to the Zibingyi plateau, a craggy path sometimes rendered -hazardous by showers of boulders rained down after blasting operations -on the line above. Thence part of the route was over the plateau, -through pleasant jungle-tracks, part along the embankment, where the -rails were not yet laid. Returning by the same way, we got back to -Mandalay by office-hours on Monday. May-m[)y]o was still in bud, perhaps -even more delightful than in its fuller bloom. Sweet were the rides -through bracken and underwood, with the chance of losing one's way and -a possible thrill of meeting a bear. And cheerful the gatherings at the -Club, the trivial social pleasures in which all took part. Mandalay -itself was a large military station, where good-fellowship has always -reigned. - -It was therefore with regret that, early in 1894, I received Sir -Alexander Mackenzie's summons to Rangoon to act as Chief Secretary -for Mr. Symes, on furlough. At the time I was acting as Judicial -Commissioner in a temporary vacancy caused by Mr. Burgess's absence on -privilege leave. As was our custom in those days, I obeyed the order -without remonstrance. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -LOWER BURMA ONCE MORE - - -The next three years, with a brief interlude of privilege leave, were -spent in Lower Burma. I was Chief Secretary for a year under Sir -Alexander Mackenzie, for nine months under Sir Frederic Fryer, for -three months under Mr. Donald Smeaton, who acted in a privilege-leave -vacancy. Work was sufficient, not excessive. The Province was in -order, and the Secretariat was administered on more regular lines than -in the earlier strenuous years. It was no longer necessary to burn -the midnight oil or to abjure exercise and recreation. Sir Alexander -Mackenzie was a man of extraordinary capacity, and of abnormal, in -my experience unexampled, speed of work. Throughout the day four -Secretaries toiled and filled office-boxes with files; by nine o'clock -next morning all came back with the Chief Commissioner's orders noted -on them. It hardly seemed as if he could have had time to untie the -bundles. Yet we had frequent evidence that cases were not dealt with -perfunctorily. The speed with which Sir Alexander Mackenzie got to -the root of a case, however elaborate or involved, seemed almost -supernatural. He left the Secretaries to do their own work, and -wrote less than any other Chief I have known. A line of his writing -would be the basis of a long draft. The least obstinate of men, he -invited criticism and free expression of opinion, and was not afraid -of changing his mind. But he was the strong man, the mainspring and -motive-power of the Administration. No Secretary cherished the delusion -that he was running the Province. We felt that he was the player whose -organ-keys were thunders, and we, beneath his foot, the pedal pressed. -Parenthetically, it may be observed that in Burma, and probably in -other Provinces which do not enjoy the blessing of Executive Councils, -the theory that Secretaries are supreme has no foundation in fact. -The power and subtle intrigues ascribed to provincial Secretariats -are the vain imaginings of people who have had no experience of their -working from within. The nonsense asserted or hinted by such persons is -incredible, and would be ludicrous but for its effect on others equally -ill-informed. Sir Alexander Mackenzie was a genial and appreciative -Chief, under whom it was a pleasure to work. As an administrator he -was not in the same class as his immediate predecessor, nor did he -inspire the personal enthusiasm and affection which many of us felt -for Sir Charles Bernard and Sir Charles Crosthwaite. But we respected -his marvellous ability, and were grateful for his uniform kindness. -According to popular belief, having finished his work before breakfast, -he spent the rest of the day on a sofa reading light literature till it -was time for tennis. - -A distinguished visitor to Burma at this time was Lord Randolph -Churchill. As Secretary of State when Upper Burma was annexed, he -had a close association with the Province. The recollection of this -was often in his mind, and gave a personal interest to his visit to -Mandalay. His coming to Burma was tinged with melancholy, as his health -was broken, and it was not long before his premature death. It is a -privilege to have met him, even though not in his brilliant day, and it -is a pleasant thought that he was able to see the country which he was -instrumental in adding to the Empire. - -Again I must confess that life in the Secretariat, interesting enough -to the workers, presented few incidents likely to enthrall the most -sympathetic reader. The more smoothly the machinery worked, the fewer -sparks were thrown off. Even in the Province, the happier the people, -the less material for the bookmaker. True, there were exciting events -even in that peaceful time. Two which startled us out of our equanimity -may be recalled. Mr. Tucker, a member of a well-known family, -many of whom have served the Crown in India, at the time District -Superintendent of Police in Pegu, was an excellent shot and a notable -sportsman. One night, when on tour in a country boat, he was aroused by -the report of a dacoity close by. Leaping on shore at once, and calling -to his boy[245] to bring his gun and cartridges, he hastened towards -the scene. As he ran along the bank, he was shot dead by dacoits, -without a chance of defending himself. It was one of the ironies of -fate that he, better than most men qualified for resistance, should -have fallen thus obscurely. One by one all concerned in the crime -were brought to justice, though some years passed before the tale was -complete. The other lurid incident was the plunder of the mail-train -between Yamèthin and Pyinmana, when Nelson, the guard, was murdered. -The miscreants who perpetrated this daring outrage are believed to have -been natives of India, formerly employed on the railway and conversant -with its working. Boarding the train at Yamèthin, they tampered with -the couplings of the brake-van, of which one compartment was obligingly -labelled "Treasure and valuables." At a lonely place they completed -the severance of the van from the rest of the train, which went on, -unconscious of the act. The unarmed guard was cut down and the treasure -carried off. It was believed at the time that the real criminals were -brought to trial. After protracted proceedings, they were finally -acquitted on appeal. - -The year 1896 saw the very last of the dacoit Bos. Ten years before, Bo -Cho had harried Myingyan and Pagan, the leader of a formidable gang; -once, when he met Captain Eyre, he is said to have led seven hundred -men. Unlike other Bos, he was neither killed nor captured, nor did he -surrender. When his band melted away, and dacoity became too hazardous -a sport, he simply disappeared. Either he was dead, or he had plunged -into effectual obscurity in the comparatively dense population of the -Delta. Actually, he was living as a peaceful cultivator in a village -in the middle of the Myingyan district. There he might have spent the -rest of his days, perhaps becoming in time a Kyaung-taga, or even a -Headman. No one would have dreamt of betraying him even for the price -set upon his capture. Did not the munificent offer of Rs. 20,000 fail -to tempt any follower of Gaung Gyi?[246] But after a time, apparently -weary of a life of inaction, Bo Cho became restless. With two sons, -he took to the jungle and began again the old trade of dacoity. -Experience of the early years of the pacification was utilized. Mr. -W. R. Stone,[247] a newly joined Assistant Commissioner, with a small -force of military and civil police, and with selected Burman officers -to help him, was told off to catch Bo Cho. He was given full authority -under the Village Regulation, and a free hand. The invaluable power of -removing to a distance friends and relatives of dacoits was unsparingly -exercised. In a few weeks Mr. Stone dispersed the gang and captured Bo -Cho and his sons, who were duly hanged in the Myingyan Jail. - -[Illustration: BO CHO AND HIS SONS.] - -Rejoining after short leave at the end of 1896, I became Commissioner -of the Irrawaddy division, and after many years again saw Bassein and -even Pantanaw. Seen in the light of larger experience, and from the -melancholy mound of advancing years, Bassein seemed quite different -from the gay station of our giddy youth. Really, it was much the same, -and in some ways it had improved. I found many old friends among -Burmans, officials, advocates, and traders. Every greybeard wagged his -head and welcomed me as contemporary. Seriously, I was very glad to -see these old gentlemen, and not to find myself forgotten. But I could -not disguise from myself, perhaps not from others, that my heart was -in Upper Burma; that I found the Delta folk, at least in the larger -towns and villages, sophisticated and with too large a mingling of -Kalas, and that I pined for Mandalay. The work was substantial but -not overwhelming; there was still time for the judicial part of it. -We were in Irrawaddy only for the dry months, and were able to make -some pleasant tours. Conditions of travelling by water were vastly -better than in early days. There was already one house-boat, which, -towed by a launch, was an agreeable substitute for the rice-boat of -our youth. The Commissioner had not yet a house-boat of his own, such -as that enjoyed by the present pampered official; but on occasion we -borrowed one from the friendly Deputy Commissioner of Maubin, Major -Macnabb. In the northern part of the division travelling by land was -easy in the dry weather. One exceedingly enjoyable tour in that part -lives in my memory. We rode from Henzada to Ngathaing-gyaung traversing -subdivisions held by two native officers, Maung Tin Gyaw and Maung Ba -Bwa. - -Much has been said and written about the corruption of Burmese -officials. To hear some people, you would think there was no such rare -bird, if indeed he be not fabulous, as an honest Burman in Government -service. I am happy to say that my experience enables me to place -on record a far more favourable judgment. It would be absurd to -pretend that corruption did not exist, even that it was very unusual. -It has been my fortune many times to recognize, expose, and punish -corrupt officers. Both in Upper and in Lower Burma we inherited the -traditions of a feeble Oriental Government, and it was impossible -that evil practices should not abound. Township officers and their -subordinates, all natives of the Province, exercised great power, often -free from constant and close supervision. To the mass of the people, -in their daily life, the township officer and Thugyi, even more than -the Deputy Commissioner, represented the Government. Furthermore, in -early days the native services were ill-paid and had poor prospects of -advancement. Till an honourable tradition was established, it could -not be expected that all would resist the many temptations in their -path. Recognizing and admitting all these grounds of reserve, I am -satisfied that very many Burmese officers have been perfectly honest -and have faithfully justified the trust reposed in them. Men there are -in whom I have such confidence that, were it shown to be misplaced, my -faith in human nature would be shattered. In recent years the pay and -prospects of Burmese officers have been improved (_quorum pars exigua -fui_). They now have fair wages and many roads to dignity and honour. -Partly for this reason, partly from higher motives, a sound tradition -is gradually becoming crystallized, and year by year the standard of -morality is being raised. - -Of those[248] who, in comparatively early times, set a shining example -of probity and efficiency, Maung Tin Gyaw was a fine specimen. Of -good Talaing stock, he was one of the ablest native officers I have -known. His father and uncle, whom a flippant but kindly, experienced, -and appreciative Deputy Commissioner used to call Romulus and Remus, -were Circle Thugyis, when I knew them venerable white-haired men of -distinguished appearance. One of them bore honourable scars of wounds -received in action in the troubles of 1885. Maung Tin Gyaw himself, -then in the prime of life, was a man of courage, resolution, and -independence. Well educated as a boy, but only in the vernacular, in -adult life he had succeeded in teaching himself enough English to -enable him to read the _Gazette_ with moderate ease. With lighter -English literature I fear he was unfamiliar. In his subdivision, which -he managed admirably, he had boundless personal influence (awza), -that intangible quality which makes the administrator. Throughout his -career he preserved a reputation for spotless integrity and honesty. -Riding with us through his charge, Maung Tin Gyaw was a very agreeable -companion, prompt in all courteous attentions, always at hand when -required, but never obtruding his society unsought. - -At one of our halts he found a wandering monk who had caused some -commotion elsewhere, and was regarded with suspicion as a potential -cause of political trouble. As I have said before, the wandering monk, -who gathers crowds, practises magic, and heals the sick by charms and -incantations, is always distrusted by the district officer. When he -begins to tattoo his followers, it is time to put him on security or -send him to jail. This monk proposed to walk through the subdivision -and proceed to Ngathaing-gyaung. Maung Tin Gyaw regarded this -proposition with disfavour. He forbade the monk to go by land. "In -fact," said he, "that's a very tedious and uncomfortable way. Go back -to Henzada, where you will find a steamer which will take you far more -quickly and easily." "Please tell me," replied the monk, who was of the -order of sea-lawyers, "by what law you will prevent me from going by -land." "The law," said Tin Gyaw, "I will show you in Henzada. But back -you shall go." And back he went under the friendly escort of a couple -of constables, and so far as I know he gave no further trouble. No -doubt a high-handed and illegal proceeding, but conducive to the peace -of the district, and therefore explicitly approved by the Commissioner. -Some years ago I had to mourn Tin Gyaw's loss. Till his death he was -one of my most trusted and valued friends. Maung Ba Bwa, our other -companion on this tour, I am glad to say still serves the State. I am -therefore precluded from saying more of him than that he, too, was -an officer of distinction, who for some years managed an important -subdivision never before, I think, placed in charge of a Burmese -officer. That these subdivisions should be entrusted to native Extra -Assistant Commissioners is an indication of the advance made in twenty -years. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -MANDALAY--THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION - - -Early in 1897 I was once more in Mandalay, well pleased to be again -among my friends in Upper Burma. In the short period of my charge of -the Mandalay Division occurred the inevitable rising for which the time -was ripe. In Burma a small rebellion breaks out with almost seasonable -regularity. One evening, as I was on the point of going to the Club, -then sumptuously housed in the western halls of the Palace, Mr. (now -Sir George) Scott came in. Instead of going to the Club, we drove round -Mandalay Hill. It was October, and the festival which marks the end -of Buddhist Lent was being celebrated. At the Kuthodaw[249] Pagoda -we alighted and mingled with the crowd. Pwès were being played, and -the scene was vivid with a gay and giddy throng of men, women, and -children, decked with jewels and clad in rainbow-coloured silks. We met -several friends, among them the Shwehlan Myowun, with whom Mr. Scott -renewed an old acquaintance.[250] This was not the time of year when -disturbance is expected. The October festival is one of peace and -good-will, when the shadows of Lent have departed, when merry lights -go sailing down the river, when the prospect of harvest is in sight. -It is, moreover, a sure sign that no trouble is apprehended when women -and children are seen in swarms at pwès and public assemblies. So with -cheerful hearts we resumed our drive, while with unconscious irony I -explained to Mr. Scott the profoundness of our security, our firm hold -on Mandalay, my confidence that nothing untoward could happen without -timely warning. We sat down to dinner, and got as far as coffee and -cheroots. Sir George Scott still regrets that he never tasted that -coffee. For at this moment in ran Mr. Snadden, the Superintendent of -Police, saying: "There is an insurrection. You had better come and see -about it." When we arrived on the scene, the insurrection had been -suppressed. A very agèd monk had announced himself as the coming King, -the reincarnation of a Prince dead some centuries ago. He possessed -the power of making his followers invisible and invulnerable, always -an advantage, especially to a small force contending against superior -numbers. Perhaps his forces would not be so small, for presently he -would throw leaves into the air and they would come down as armed men. -His occult power he proved by walking thrice round his monastery and -disappearing from sight. "Of course," said the Kinwun Mingyi, as he -related the story afterwards, not wishing to impose upon my simplicity, -"he hid himself somewhere." With such old wives' tales, and with -promises of place and power, he beguiled a score of wretched dupes, -mostly as old as himself. They sat and plotted beneath the humble -mat-and-thatch monastery where the monk lived. My confidence that we -should be warned in time was not misplaced. The local police inspector -was told by a woman that a conspiracy was being hatched. The cry of -"Wolf!" had been so often raised that he was mildly incredulous. When -she led him to see the conspirators, and he found a lot of old men -telling their beads, his unbelief was confirmed, and he declined to -listen to the story. His want of faith cost him his appointment. - -When the eventful evening came, armed only with swords and short -spears hidden in the sleeves of their jackets, without a firearm of -any kind, the little band marched to the taking of the walled city -of Mandalay, garrisoned by two or three regiments. Their goal was -the Palace where, said the monk, "when I take my seat on the throne, -Burma will be my kingdom and the heretic kalas will flee." Almost at -the outset, they were diverted from their purpose. Crossing the moat -by the South Bridge, they came upon a British soldier walking with an -Englishwoman. "Behold the enemy; slay them," cried the mad monk. Hotly -pursued, the luckless pair ran through the South Gate.[251] I regret -to say that the police guard at the gate fled. Close by, in a large -compound, stood the house of Major W. H. Dobbie[252] of the Indian -Army. The woman ran along the garden fence, while the man darted in and -gave the alarm. Then this nameless hero, alone and unarmed, went back -to help his companion and met death unafraid. The woman, grievously -wounded, survived. With his revolver, and supplied with cartridges -by his gallant wife, Major Dobbie ran out and met the rebels at his -gate. Single-handed, he held them at bay, doing much execution, till -some other officers, attracted by the firing, came to his aid and -completed the rout. In the city gateway a running fight ensued. The -white walls were splashed with blood which long remained a memorial of -that stirring night. One officer received a cut on the head. Of the -rebels, five, including the leader, were killed and most were wounded. -If the band had pursued its original intention and made straight for -the Palace, it would have come upon a few peaceful gentlemen sitting -at dinner in the club with no weapons of defence handier than chairs -and table-knives. The attempt was an isolated affair, of no political -significance, confined to the few fanatics actually engaged. Patrols -were sent out and rewards proclaimed. Within a week we picked up all -the surviving rebels. After trial, ten were hanged in the presence of -many spectators; the rest were sent to transportation. In the jail I -spoke to one of the leaders, a man of fair position, somewhat past -middle age, the Kappiya-taga[253] of the dead monk's monastery. He -explained that he had no enmity or cause of enmity against Government. -Ambition was the motive which impelled him. He was to be the new King's -Chief Minister. The fortune of war being against him, he submitted to -the penalty without complaint. - -The story is pitiful enough. These petty risings are of periodical -occurrence, and seem to be peculiar to Burma. Three or four have broken -out in the last few years. They are never of sufficient importance -to cause any anxiety to Government. The sorrow and misery fall on -ignorant, misguided peasants who are led astray by some _soi-disant_ -Prince. Always a pretender to royal blood, a Minlaung or embryo Prince, -with power to work marvels, to bring fire forth from his arm, to -kindle mystic lights, or cause gilding to be laid by unseen hands on a -pagoda; always fairy-tales of charms against death and wounds. It seems -impossible to cure this insane disease of flocking to a pretender's -standard. For the sake of the people themselves, these outbreaks must -be suppressed with severity. We used to regard crimes against the State -as crimes of the worst character, not as venial offences to be treated -tenderly. This is the only kind of sedition which has hitherto troubled -Burma. The mass of the people, no less than the educated classes, are -too proud to follow demagogues from Bombay or Bengal. They seem to be -too intelligent to hanker after representative institutions unsuited to -the genius of the race. Recognizing that they already take a great part -in the administration, they feel assured that as they show themselves -fit, higher offices will be thrown open to their ambition. Enlightened -Burmans see that the good of the people is the sole desire of -Government, and that this is promoted by due submission to constituted -authority, not by liberty of fluent rhetoric. While, therefore, other -parts of India were seething with sedition, Burma alone remained -unmoved, pursuing its steady march of progress. The speed of the march -would be accelerated if Burma had more of its own money to spend, -and if it were not often hampered by being made to conform to Indian -precedents. All that we knew of sedition was the deportation of certain -ring-leaders to Burma, where they were not likely to be regarded with -any interest or sympathy. - -Towards the close of this year I relinquished charge of the Division -on appointment to be Her Majesty's Commissioner for demarcating the -boundary between Burma and China. The settlement of this boundary had -long been under discussion between the two Governments. In 1893 had -been concluded a Convention fixing a boundary-line very unfavourable to -Burma. As already mentioned, Sima went to China and farther south the -frontier was drawn perilously near Bhamo. Fortunately, an opportunity -of revising this Convention occurred. The new Agreement laid down a -line more practical and more in accordance with historical evidence. In -the winter of 1897 a Joint Commission was appointed to ascertain and -demarcate on the ground the frontier defined in the revised Convention. -Mr. E. C. S. George was Assistant Commissioner. My Chinese colleague -was General Liu, with several Chinese assistants and a telegraph -clerk as interpreter. The Commission assembled at Bhamo as arranged. -A few days were spent in settling preliminaries and exchanging -courtesies. General Liu and his officers dined with us and we in turn -were entertained at a Chinese feast. With some confidence, we set out -for the frontier. Mr. George, with one of the Chinese Commissioners, -was deputed to demarcate north of the Taiping as far as the high -conical peak in latitude 25° 35', the extreme point mentioned in the -Convention. With his customary vigour and decision, overcoming many -difficulties, he accomplished his task. General Liu and I proposed to -demarcate south of the Taiping. Of the party were Mr. W. Warry[254] -of the China Consular Service, Major F. B. Longe[255] of the Survey -of India, Captain E. W. M. Norie[256] of the Middlesex Regiment, -Intelligence Officer, and Mr. D. W. Rae of the Provincial Service, -an officer of tried experience in the Kachin Hills. Captain J. W. L. -ffrench-Mullen[257] commanded the modest escort of a hundred rifles of -military police. - -We marched due east, through the pleasant hill-station of Sinlumgaba, -past terraced rice-fields watered by ingenious irrigation works, over -shallow streams. With more than the wonted vigour of Chinese officials, -General Liu exchanged his sedan-chair for a rough pony, and rode at -the head of his ragged escort. The result did not justify the promise -of the beginning. Almost at the outset, in circumstances with which I -need not weary my readers, we came to a deadlock. Though the case was -obviously one for compromise, General Liu, most courteous and most -obstinate of men, declined to come to terms. There was no alternative -but to refer the matter to our respective Governments, and await their -orders. So after a very few days we settled down on the banks of a -stream which up to that time had marked the provisional boundary. - -Four weary months we spent beside that miserable stream, our escort on -the Burmese side, the Chinese escort on the farther bank, occupying our -time in sending urgent appeals to Government, and in holding endless -conferences with our Chinese colleagues. Our men, disciplined and well -equipped, were under canvas, properly rationed and cared for by our -medical officer. Among them were a few Kachins recently enlisted, very -smart and proud of their new uniforms. Boots were to them at once a -source of glory and of pain. Most of them marched bare-footed, carrying -the precious but weary burden slung on their shoulders. In a village -they put them on and swaggered about for the admiration of the girls. -Hardy and brave, these mountaineers are likely to prove excellent -material for military police, perhaps even for the regular army. This -season they were blooded in a small affair which Mr. H. F. Hertz had -with an intrusive body of Chinese. They were among the first to scale -the enemy's stockade. There are now several companies of Kachins in the -battalions at Bhamo and Myitkyina. General Liu had his hundred Chinese -braves, clad in picturesque rags, undisciplined, armed with the latest -thing in rifles, which they had no idea how to use. They carried no -tents, and had to house themselves in huts of leaf and bamboo. The -comfortable arrangements made for our military police filled them with -envy, and they gratefully accepted the attention of our surgeon. We -could have enlisted as many as we pleased if we had wished to raise -a Chinese battalion. They impressed us as being good raw material -and quite well behaved, but in their existing conditions entirely -useless as a fighting force. The futility of Chinese troops against -a disciplined army has been abundantly exemplified on this frontier. -Notwithstanding warnings and alarms in the Press of the presence of -formidable arrays trained by German or Japanese instructors, and armed -with rifles of the very newest pattern, we have never encountered from -Yunnan a Chinese levy capable of standing up to our military police, -far less to a British force of all arms. - -General Liu was a sturdy old man, who had seen service in the field. -Although he succeeded in wasting the whole season, and broke solemn -compacts with a serene smile, our relations on the whole were -friendly. He wrote me innumerable despatches, adorned with the noblest -moral sentiments, but in substance quite inconsequent. This was in -accordance with established tradition. Very often he crossed over -to our camp and talked for hours, probably for the benefit of his -assistants and the egregious telegraph clerk. After drinking a liqueur, -he would return to his own side of the stream, conscious of a morning -well spent, and sit under a tree, cooling his head after the heat of -argument. Among interesting visitors to his camp were Sawbwas of the -Chinese Shan States, which lie along the border. These chiefs occupy -very much the same position as those of our own Shan States. At times -they enjoy greater freedom, at times are more severely repressed, -than their brothers in Burma. One of them cherished a beard which -Shagpat might have envied; except on occasions of display, he kept -it encased in a bag. Incidentally we were surprised by the arrival -in our camp of two English travellers, who announced that they had -travelled through China, and had just come from Lasa. Their report was -received with derision by a correspondent, who thought that Lasa was -the storied capital of Tibet, then untrodden ground. Their Lasa is one -of the Chinese Shan States. In the course of the season we had a very -effective eclipse, and were privileged to witness the Chinese beating -gongs and making an incredible noise to frighten away the dragon -devouring the sun, a custom of which we had heard, but hitherto had -only in part believed to exist. - -Such were the trivial incidents which helped to pass the weary days, -as we sat in our tents pitched in the midst of bare rice-fields, on -a plateau some four thousand feet above the sea. Till the middle of -March the climate was cold and bracing, with a sharp frost that covered -buckets of water with ice an inch or two thick, at first an object of -surprise and admiration to my Burman boy from the plains. We diverted -ourselves as best we might, and from first to last were all good -friends. By the camp-fire at night many a story was told. But that it -was a monotonous time cannot be gainsaid. Even the resource of shooting -was almost entirely absent. The hills swarmed with guns, old-fashioned -muskets for the most part, and the Kachins very successfully kept -down the game. We rode about the country for relaxation, visiting -Kachin villages, and making the acquaintance of many Duwas. The most -interesting was the blind Chief of Matang (Matin), a man of real -influence, who had been of service to Colonel Sladen on his mission to -Yunnan in 1868. Once or twice we visited Sinlumgaba, already mentioned -as a budding hill-station, and were cordially welcomed by the gunners -out for practice at the neighbouring hill of Imlumshan. Somehow or -other the months passed, in daily expectation of orders from Government -enabling us to make a start. I do not know what was the cause of the -delay. At last, at the end of the season, the long-awaited orders -came. But it was too late. We parted from General Liu with mutual -protestations of respect and affection. In spite of his obstinacy, -duplicity, and pious dissertations, I could not help liking the old man. - -After writing my report and forming plans for the ensuing season, I -acted for a time as Judicial Commissioner of Upper Burma. Towards the -end of 1898 the permanent appointment became vacant, owing to the -lamented death of Mr. Burgess. I was given the option of succeeding -him or of retaining the office of Boundary Commissioner. I accepted -the post of Judicial Commissioner. The demarcation of the boundary was -successfully carried out in the next two seasons by Sir George Scott -and Mr. George. - -Judicial work in Upper Burma, which occupied me for the next two years, -was interesting but not exciting. The volume of work was sufficient, -not beyond the pursuit of zeal and industry. The forensic part was -varied and often entertaining, involving many studies of Buddhist law -and indigenous customs. Though not a very litigious people, Burmans -hate being treated, as they think, unjustly. I have known a case where -only a few pence were at stake carried through all the Courts up to -Mandalay. Besides hearing appeals and revisions as a High Court, the -Judicial Commissioner had to supervise, and, where necessary, instruct -the subordinate judiciary. The judicial system was less elaborate -than in other Provinces, and many magistrates and Judges retained -characteristics acquired under Burmese rule. They did their best, and -administered what was perhaps at times a wild kind of justice. They had -the Civil Procedure Code thrust on them, _me judice_, at too early -a date, but they bore the infliction with resignation. The Judicial -Commissioner's duties involved a fair amount of administration and a -good deal of inspection. With the members of the small but efficient -Bar his relations were friendly and cordial. - -The Judicial Commissioner held sway within the limits of his powers -over all Upper Burma save, mercifully for them, the Shan States and the -Chin and Kachin Hills. Inspections included many parts of the Province -by me before unvisited. Of these brief visits, full of interest at -the time, it were tedious to write at length. A sample may be given. -Early one morning I landed at a wayside village to inspect the township -court. A graceful little pandal[258] had been erected wherein I was -invited to witness a pwè before beginning work. Innocently consenting, -I took my seat and the performance began. Dancers came, not single -spies, but in battalions. Every village in the neighbourhood had sent -its troupe, each eager in succession to display its skill and grace. -Except one, all the companies consisted of quite young girls, not -professionals, but daughters of the village. The last turn was given -by a band of small boys delightfully dressed in green jackets and -knickerbockers. This was much more amusing than turning over dusty -files and registers. But all good things come to an end, and after -some pleasant hours I had reluctantly to obey the call of duty. In -the end, I breakfasted at 5 o'clock tea. There is a sequel to the -story. On my return to Mandalay I received a petition signed by the -girls of one of the troupes. It was more clement than the petition of -Salome. The memorialists had danced, and I had been pleased to look and -express approval. Such poor skill as they had was due to the training -of their saya.[259] This worthy man had fallen on evil days. By the -craft and subtlety of his enemies, he had been wrongfully prosecuted -for embezzlement, unjustly convicted, and barbarously sentenced to -imprisonment. If he stayed in durance, his lessons would be forgotten, -and his pupils would be able to dance no more. Would I kindly, as a -personal favour to them, order his instant release? The impulse of the -natural man was to grant on the spot this ingenuous gracefully worded -request. Hardening my heart, I yet examined the record of the trial -with every desire to find a reason for intervention. Alas! I could not -convince myself that the saya was an injured innocent. All that the -girls got by their memorial was a civil answer, in which I tried to -explain why their request could not be granted. I hope they gave me -credit for the wish to help them. - -It should be a truism, but is too seldom recognized, that the less the -higher Courts interfere, especially on technical grounds, the better. -Now and then, however, it was pleasing to be able of one's own motion -to throw open the prison gates. Very gratifying it was to set at -liberty a man sentenced to a long term of imprisonment for exceeding -the right of private defence against an armed robber. To me he seemed -deserving of reward rather than punishment. I doubt if any act of my -official life gave me greater pleasure than restoring a young woman to -freedom. Inspecting a gaol, I found a young Burmese girl, the solitary -occupant of the woman's side. In an agony of grief at her husband's -sudden death she had tried to commit suicide. For this heinous crime -she had been sentenced to imprisonment for three months. On her ready -promise not to do it again, I was able to release her at once. - -For a few weeks in 1899, by arrangement with Mr. F. S. Copleston, C.S., -who, solely for my convenience, changed places with me, I held the -office of Judicial Commissioner of Lower Burma, a thankless post, of -which the work exceeded my capacity. - -In 1900 the Chief Court of Lower Burma was established, Mr. Copleston -becoming the first Chief Judge. The selection was vehemently -criticized, the local Bar and Press clamouring for the appointment of a -barrister and for Mr. Copleston's head on a charger. I should like to -explain the reasons which may be urged in support of the appointment of -a civilian. The judicious skipper will perhaps be warned, and avoid the -next page or two. It is open to argument that there should not be any -civilian Judges; that, as in England, all Judges should be barristers -trained in forensic practice. This argument is not seriously advanced -by anyone conversant with the conditions, and need not be traversed -at length. But the situation may be briefly stated. From the beginning -of their service, civilians are constantly doing judicial work, always -criminal, generally civil. In the five-and-twenty years or so that -pass before they are likely to enter a High or Chief Court, those who -have any aptitude or inclination for legal studies have had abundant -experience and have acquired a good stock of learning. Where there -is a division between the executive and judicial branches, certain -officers specialize almost exclusively. Civilians of my own standing -had even an earlier training. During their term of probation law formed -a prominent part of their reading. Periodical examinations tested their -proficiency, and they had also to attend Courts and prepare notes of -cases. They saw in practice the daily working of Courts under the -presidency of the best Judges and magistrates in England. A selected -candidate who failed at the Final Examination to qualify in law was -ruthlessly rejected, excluded for ever from the paradise of the Civil -Service. It is thought by some not unintelligent persons that in the -trial of civil and criminal causes it is an advantage for the Judge to -have knowledge of the language, customs, and character of the people -concerned. Apart from this, every High and Chief Court in India has -civilian Judges, by common consent as well qualified as their barrister -colleagues. So much for the appointment of any civilians as Judges. -Now for the question of the Chief Judge. In the Chief Court of Lower -Burma, with which we are immediately concerned, in forensic business -the Chief Judge has no more weight or authority than any of his puisne -brothers. Only when all the Judges are sitting as a Bench, and when -they are equally divided, has the Chief Judge a casting-vote. As yet -that instance has not happened. Ordinarily, in court the Chief Judge -is on terms of exact equality with his colleagues. As a member of a -Bench he can be outvoted by his juniors. His decision as a single judge -can be considered, modified, or overruled by a Bench, of which he may -or may not be a member. So far as judicial work is concerned, every -objection to the appointment of a civilian as Chief Judge can be urged -with equal force to the appointment of any civilians as Judges. But -the work is not exclusively judicial. It includes also administrative -functions. The Chief Court initiates or advises upon many matters -connected with the judicial administration. All subordinate Judges -and magistrates, most of them Burmans, are under its supervision. In -this branch of the duties of the Court the leading part is necessarily -taken by the Chief Judge. It is therefore desirable that he should -have administrative experience, and, if possible, good knowledge of -the people. For these reasons public interest is better served by -the selection of a civilian as Chief Judge. I do not care to discuss -the vulgar suggestion, not seriously made by any decent person, that -civilian Judges are more likely to be subservient to Government than -barristers. No one believes this; nor would it apply particularly to -the Chief Judge, who, as I have said, has no more power judicially -than his colleagues. The only sound rule is for Government to appoint -as Chief Judge the man believed to be best qualified for the office, -whether civilian or barrister, bearing in mind that administrative as -well as purely legal qualifications are requisite. - -Some time ago there was an agitation for the establishment of a High -Court for Burma in place of the Chief Court and Judicial Commissioner. -No doubt Judges of the Chief Court should receive the same pay as -Judges of a High Court. They do exactly the same work, and are of -the same standing. Apart from this, in my humble judgment, the -establishment of a High Court would be an unmixed evil. Upper Burma is -not ripe for even the mild sway of the Chief Court. For both litigants -and Judges it is better to remain under the sympathetic control of -the Judicial Commissioner, whose learning is tempered by sympathy -with the people. It would also be disastrous for suitors from Upper -Burma to have to come to Rangoon, practically a foreign city, instead -of Mandalay, where they are at home. Besides these objections, the -establishment of a High Court would involve the appointment on every -occasion of a barrister Chief Justice, which I hope I have shown to be -inexpedient. As puisne Judges, barristers would be sent from England. -One need not believe spiteful stories of political jobs, and one -may respect many Judges of High Courts; but it cannot be contended -that an Indian career now attracts the pick of the English Bar, men -in first-class practice or with good prospects. Recent experience -has, I trust, quenched whatever desire there may have been for the -establishment of a High Court in Rangoon. But enough of controversy. - -At the end of 1898 Lord Elgin visited Burma, on the very eve of his -departure from India. - -In the last few months of my last residence in Mandalay, no suitable -house being available, I occupied my old quarters in the Palace, with -the White Pavilion[260] opposite. Except for the Club on the western -side and a few offices, the Palace was untenanted. Burmans ranged it -at will, much interested in pacing its corridors and examining its -stately rooms. They certainly did not regard the Palace with awe or -reverence, but were well pleased to satisfy their curiosity. On feast -days crowds came to picnic in the gardens and loitered in my courtyard. -All climbed up the Queen's Tower, and all counted the steps as they -descended. At night, save for a few watchmen, most of the Palace was -left in solitude. Very striking was the effect as one's footsteps -sounded hollow on the boarded floors, while the tropic moon flooded -the columned arcades with unearthly light. Revolving many memories and -picturing many scenes of bygone days, I traversed the deserted halls. - -At the end of 1900, the day after the completion of my obligatory -service in India, I went on furlough, free to retire at the end of two -years. Mr. Harvey Adamson[261] succeeded to the appointment. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -THE CHIEF COURT--LAST YEARS IN BURMA - - -After spending rather more than a year in Europe, I was tempted back -to Burma by the offer of the post of Chief Judge in succession to Mr. -Copleston, who retired from the Service. I held the office for three -years, from 1902 to 1905. These are years of pleasant memory, mainly -on account of the very cordial relations with my colleagues, and -especially the kindness and friendship of the barrister Judges. Of the -Bar also I have a grateful remembrance. Its members were pleased to -speak appreciatively of me on my departure. I risk the double edge. - -The most interesting event of these years was the Durbar at Delhi held -by Lord Curzon on New Year's Day, 1903, to celebrate the Coronation -of His Majesty King Edward VII. I do not propose to tell a twice-told -tale by describing the Durbar and its attendant ceremonies. But a brief -reference may be permitted. A splendid pageant was the State Entry, -with its long line of richly caparisoned elephants, its dazzling array -of Chiefs in gorgeous vestments, seen by thousands from the terraces -of the Jamma Musjid. Glorious and soul-stirring was the Durbar itself -with all the pomp of heraldry and blazonry of colour. Perhaps the -most moving incident was the appearance of a body of Mutiny veterans, -conspicuous among them white-haired men of many Indian races who had -been faithful to their salt. The Shan chiefs, humble folk among the -stately Indian Rajas, were yet in their grotesque attire a picturesque -feature of the State Entry, and attracted notice as they paid homage -at the Durbar. Not soon to be forgotten was the review of native -retainers, where the followers of many Chiefs displayed curious customs -and equipment handed down from remote antiquity. Perhaps the most -charming ceremony was the State Ball in the Diwan-i-Am (with supper -in the Diwan-i-Khas), where Europeans and Indians, gleaming with gold -and jewels and radiant colour, flashed and glittered in the historic -halls of the Moguls. The conception of the Durbar and of the incidents -grouped round that memorable scene was worthy of the great event which -they celebrated. The Burma camp was, as usual, admirably arranged and -managed; the griffins, which characteristically guarded the gateway, -a piece of Burma set down in the Punjab plain. The guests hospitably -entertained there owe a debt of gratitude to Sir Frederic and Lady -Fryer and His Honour's able and courteous staff for many pleasant days. -That fortnight remains in my mind as a charming episode. - -In 1905, Lord Curzon appointed me to be Lieutenant-Governor in -succession to Sir Hugh Barnes, who went to the Council of India. Sir -Harvey Adamson became Chief Judge. - -Early in 1906 the Province was honoured by the visit of the Prince and -Princess of Wales. Their Royal Highnesses were received with unbounded -enthusiasm by all classes and races in Burma. Their gracious kindness -and consideration had the happiest effect in exciting the loyalty of -the Burmese people. To Rangoon and Mandalay, Shan chiefs and many -strange folk from remote hills and valleys, Chins, Kachins, Karens, -Was, Padaungs, Brès, flocked to do homage. Proceeding down the river -to Prome in a steamer fitted up by the Flotilla Company, Their Royal -Highnesses saw a great deal of the country in a short time. The memory -of their visit will not fade from the minds of those privileged to see -them, and will be handed down as a glowing tradition to posterity. - -Next year the Duke and Duchess of Connaught and Princess Patricia came -to Burma, and were welcomed with acclamation. Their Royal Highnesses -visited Rangoon, Mandalay, and Pagan, thus seeing the most interesting -places in the Province. - -In 1907 the Viceroy, Lord Minto, with Lady Minto, paid us a visit, -and spent nearly a month in Burma. Their Excellencies saw Rangoon, -Mandalay, Lashio, Myitkyina, Bhamo, Pagan, and Prome. Coming, like Lord -Curzon, early in his term of office, Lord Minto obtained an insight -into the conditions of Burma, and became interested in the Province. -The most memorable incident of his visit was the Durbar held by His -Excellency in the Eastern Hall of Audience in the Palace at Mandalay, -the first public ceremony held there since Lord Dufferin's Levée in -1886. - -Although to Lord Curzon I owed my appointment as Lieutenant-Governor, -I was not in Burma at the time of his visit, nor was it my privilege -to serve directly under him for many months. Most illustrious of the -eminent statesmen who have held the high office of Viceroy of India, -Lord Curzon left, regretted by all who had at heart the interests of -the Empire and the good of the people. It is presumptuous of me to -attempt any appreciation of his work or to raise my feeble voice in -eulogy. Yet, having served under him, I cannot be altogether silent. -Lord Curzon set the example of the loftiest ideal. Inspiring the -heartiest enthusiasm in those brought into personal relations with -him, he spared no pains to raise the standard of efficiency, to reform -abuses, to promote the well-being of the people of India. When the dust -of controversy shall have been laid, the historian will see clearly, in -true perspective, how noble a task he accomplished in the years, all -too few, of his Viceroyalty. - -So long as Burma remains a Province of India, her geographical -position will place her at a disadvantage in comparison with other -Provinces. Members of Council pay sparing and infrequent visits, and -seldom have any knowledge of the country and the people. Nor has the -Lieutenant-Governor many opportunities of visiting the headquarters -of Government. Only once, towards the end of my term of office, -did I go to Calcutta. While I was at Government House, except one -Member who came on a private excursion, giving me no warning of his -coming, and whom I never saw, only two Members of Council, Sir Denzil -Ibbetson,[262] and Mr. W. L. Harvey, came to Burma. It was a pleasure -and a privilege to make the acquaintance of Sir Denzil Ibbetson. His -coming, though unavoidably deferred till the last moment, was of -advantage to the Province. The same may be said of Mr. Harvey's visit. -Sir Denzil Ibbetson and Mr. Harvey were lost to India soon afterwards. -Both were men of character, ability, and distinction, whom we could ill -spare. - -Distance and the pressure of overwhelming official cares kept away the -Financial Member.[263] This was specially to be regretted. For the new -Provincial Settlement, cynically styled a Contract, was discussed and -determined. The debate was one-sided, and recalled the schoolboys' tag: -"Si rixa est, ubi tu pulsas, ego vapulo tantum." - -Burma fared badly in this unequal contest, where the decision rested -solely with the Supreme Government. The situation may be described in -popular terms. Apart from local funds, revenue and expenditure in India -are divided into Imperial and Provincial. All the revenue is raised -in the Provinces, the Government of India having no separate estate. -Imperial expenditure, including the cost of the Central Government, -the army, and Home charges, has to be met by contributions from the -Provinces. Certain heads of revenue are Imperial, others provincial; -others are divided between the two. It is right and fair that Burma -as well as other Provinces should contribute to Imperial needs. Only -very foolish people believe that the Government of India depends upon -Burma for its livelihood, so to speak. The poor old milch-cow has been -trotted out too often, and has become a wearisome, time-worn beast. In -fact, the contribution paid by Burma is actually less than that paid by -the richer Provinces. At the same time it is true that the contribution -from Burma is greater in proportion to its population than that of -any other Province, and that from Burma alone the annual subvention -tends to increase. It may be admitted, as is perhaps the case, that -the settlement with Burma was made on the same lines as those of other -Provinces, that the proportion of its revenues taken by India is much -the same as the proportion taken elsewhere. What people in Burma feel -is that this is unfair. When our settlement was made we were still in -a backward state, ill-equipped with roads and buildings, with many -needs as yet unsupplied. Other Provinces were far more advanced, -and had less necessary expenditure to incur. Moreover, the cost of -public works in Burma is twice as high as in other parts of India. If, -therefore, we are to be treated like other Provinces, we ought to have -more liberal terms. So much is taken from Burma that not enough is left -for public works and other expenditure necessary to our expansion. -We also believe that this is a shortsighted policy, and that liberal -expenditure in Burma would benefit Imperial and Provincial revenues -alike. Stated in few words, this is the case for Burma, based on facts -available to the public, without reference to unpublished records. - -Another disadvantage under which Burma labours is the application of -Indian principles and precedents. While Burma is part of India, no -doubt the system of administration and the main lines of policy must be -the same as in other Provinces. But in details, in matters where our -conditions differ essentially from those of India, it is unreasonable -that we should be bound by Indian rules. A Member of Council who has -never seen Burma thinks nothing of overruling[264] the Local Government -on points of purely local concern. Again, general orders framed after -consideration of the circumstances of Indian Provinces are applied to -Burma, where conditions are totally unlike. In this way much needless -labour and waste of valuable time are caused. I remember one Commission -which contained no representative from Burma, and which never came -near the Province. It issued an elaborate and extremely valuable -Report. For years afterwards poured forth a flood of Resolutions on -the Commission's recommendations which we were required to consider -and discuss, though none of them could possibly apply to our local -conditions. No real harm was done, but time and labour were spent in -vain. As Burma differs essentially from India, and as it is impossible -that Burma should be adequately represented in all departments of -the Government of India, the natural conclusion is that the Local -Government should be allowed a much freer hand, and should be trusted -to know what is best in matters of local concern. - -While on the subject of disadvantages I may mention a real grievance. -It may seem mainly to affect the Civil Service; really it is of vital -importance to the Province. I refer to the very small share which -Burma has in appointments under the Imperial Government. As I myself -obtained in my service more than I could have expected, I shall not -be thought to speak from any personal feeling. In the fifty years -since Burma has been a Province she has supplied to India one Member -of Council, two Deputy-Secretaries, one Agricultural Adviser (for a -short term), and two or three Under-Secretaries, all within the last -seven years. No civilian from Burma has ever been chosen to administer -another Province. It does not seem likely that of civilians in Burma, -chosen in the same way as other civilians, none has been fit for such -an appointment. It is needless to conjecture reasons for this apparent -neglect. I suggest that Burma should receive a fair share of high -offices, so that service in Burma may cease to be unpopular, and that -her needs and conditions may be properly appreciated by the Supreme -Government. - -During my term of office the Royal Commission on Decentralization -came to us. Needless to say, Burma had no representative among its -members. That could hardly be expected. Bombay had two members, Madras -and Bengal one each. The Punjab and the United Provinces were omitted. -Except Mr. Dutt, a Bengali civilian who served in the regular line and -seems to have attained no special distinction, the Commission included -no one who had any acquaintance with the system of government by -Lieutenant-Governors, and only one, Sir F. P. Lely, who had served in a -non-regulation Province. The constitution of the Commission was clearly -reflected in the Report which regarded all India as administered under -the Presidency system, and therefore in the hands of Secretaries and -Members of Executive Councils. The Commission learnt little of Burma -during its somewhat hasty visit. Nor was it likely that permanent -benefit would result from the labours of a body which set out to -investigate and reform the whole administrative system of India in the -course of a cold-weather tour. - -The reforms of Councils devised by Lord Morley or Lord Minto were -discussed and carried into effect during these years. These reforms -were not needed in Burma; there was no popular demand for them; they -were entirely unsuited to the Province. But Burma must lie on the -procrustean bed. I am thankful to say, that for a time at least, the -Province was saved from popular elections. In a country where, after -thirty years, it is rare to find Europeans or Burmans of position -willing to take an interest even in municipal elections, that would -be the last straw. But the Council had to be enlarged, a non-official -majority secured, and the elective system introduced at least to -the extent of enabling one body, the Burma Chamber of Commerce, to -elect[265] its member. And all the detailed rules of procedure, of -Budget discussions, of interpellations, and the like, framed for other -Provinces, have been applied to Burma. It may safely be said that no -one in Burma is a penny the better for these innovations, and that the -great heart of the people remains unmoved. The net result is some waste -of time and public money owing to the appointment of more official -members, worthy gentlemen who have to spend hours in Council when they -should be doing their work. We were quite as well off under the old -Council and the old rules. The situation would be ludicrous if it were -not pathetic. - -The objects which I regarded as most important, and which, to the best -of my ability, I pursued, were the encouragement of efficiency in -the Services, insistence on the principle of selection to which the -Government of India often drew attention, and the improvement of the -position and prospects of officers of various departments, particularly -but not exclusively, those manned by people of the country. I had the -pleasure of making the first appointment of a Burman as a District -Judge, my old friend Maung Aung Zan,[266] K.S.M., being the officer -selected. Two posts of Deputy Commissioner were obtained for the -Provincial Service, the first Burman to hold that office being Maung -Myat Tun Aung, C.I.E., K.S.M., T.D.M. Later I appointed the first two -Burman Superintendents of Police, Maung Tun Min,[267] T.D.M., and -Maung Shwe Tha,[267] I.S.O., K.S.M., A.T.M. These appointments enabled -us to solve a long-standing problem, the officering of Kyauk-pyu. -This district was notoriously unhealthy for any but natives of the -locality, so that it was difficult to keep European officers there -for any length of time. With one Arakanese as Deputy Commissioner and -another as Superintendent of Police, both accustomed to the climate, -it was possible to have the district efficiently administered without -sacrificing anyone's health. For some time Kyauk-pyu was administered -solely by native officers. The experiment seems to have been -successful; both the Deputy Commissioner and the Police Superintendent -having recently been decorated. I take the opportunity of reminding my -Burmese friends, who justly cite me as desirous of seeing them placed -in higher offices, that one essential condition is that by character -and ability they should prove their fitness for advancement. I am the -last man in the world to wish Burmans promoted merely because they are -Burmans, without regard to their qualifications. "After these things do -the Gentiles seek." - -A successful effort was made to equalize the pay and prospects of the -higher ranks of the Judicial Service, so as to attract men of at least -average ability and ambition to that branch. The Provincial Judicial -Service was organized on a proper basis, so that officers who chose or -were posted to it might receive the same pay as those on the Executive -side. The important Land Records Department was reorganized and placed -on a proper basis as regards pay, and a system of recruitment and -training was devised. To my lot, assisted by Colonel S. C. F. Peile, -C.I.E., the experienced Inspector-General, fell the task of introducing -most of the changes following the Report of the Police Commission. In -this matter I think we might have been allowed more liberty to consult -local conditions. After all, the Report was not verbally inspired. - -I had much at heart the enactment of legislation for restraining -the alienation of land and for the protection of tenants. I was -unsuccessful in effecting either of these objects before my retirement. -I have no doubt that gradually but surely the Burman is being squeezed -off the land, and that if, as seems likely, the proposed legislation is -abandoned, the land will fall into the hands of non-agriculturists and -natives of India. Free trade in land as in other things may be good. -From an economic point of view the position is probably sound. More -rice will be grown for export; more land revenue and customs duty will -be garnered. But there are other considerations. The standard of living -will be lowered. The deterioration of the Burmese race which will -inevitably accompany their divorce from the land will be a subject for -regret when it is irremediable. Similarly, tenants in Burma are rapidly -increasing in numbers. There, as elsewhere, they need protection. The -solace of my disappointment was the progress of the co-operative credit -movement under the fostering care of Mr. A. E. English, C.I.E. This -movement will afford a great deal of help to the Burman cultivator. -If it spreads to a sufficient extent, it may even obviate the need of -agrarian legislation. - -Among the pleasantest as well as the most beneficial duties of the -Lieutenant-Governor is the making of tours in all parts of the -Province. These journeys bring the head of the local Government into -touch with officers of all grades and departments, as well as with -the people. Not the least charming incidents associated with them -are the receptions at every halting-place of importance, where the -townsfolk offer a hearty welcome in their own fashion, and tender -loyal addresses. Some of these receptions were elaborately and -magnificently staged, with presentation of flowers, with dance and -music, with triumphal arches, with decorated streets. Without meaning -to be invidious, I think receptions at Mandalay, Pegu, Akyab, and -Bassein, where I was charmed to meet many old friends, stand out in my -memory as conspicuous. The addresses presented on these occasions were -often gracefully worded. Besides a profusion of loyal sentiments and -good wishes, they usually stated matters of local interest for which -the benevolent attention of Government was sought, the need of a new -school, waterworks, sanitation, as the case might be. In one address my -wife was gratified by being styled my "august consort."[268] Except -the Chin Hills, the Hill districts of Northern Arakan and Salween, and, -I am ashamed to say, Tharrawaddy, which was unaccountably neglected, -I visited all the districts as well as the Northern and Southern Shan -States. Kyaingtôn (Kengtung), across the Salween, was an object of -unfulfilled desire, and a projected ride to Namkham was not realized. - -To Mogôk I went for the purpose of investing the young Sawbwa of -Möñgmit with the administration of his State. At a very early age the -young Chief was taken in hand, and placed in charge of the Rev. J. N. -Cushing,[269] the venerable head of the Baptist Mission in Rangoon, -and one of the first of Shan scholars. Dr. Cushing received him into -his own house, and treated him as a son. When of suitable years, the -future Sawbwa was sent to a district for training in judicial and -executive work. Not till he was of ripe age, and had given evidence of -steadiness of character, was he allowed to assume charge of his State. -He received his Sanad in full Durbar, and with it much good advice. -With an experienced Burman officer as his principal Assistant, and -under the effective supervision of the Deputy Commissioner, Mr. E. -C. S. George, the young Chief has done well, and has shown zeal and -intelligence in the management of his State. I think the impressions -of his early years have not faded. At the time of his investiture his -marriage was celebrated--a pleasing ceremony which I was privileged -to attend. At Mogôk the usual strenuous round of duty and pleasure, -incident to the inspection of a district headquarters with a vigorous -Deputy Commissioner, filled days and nights. Up at six to ride round -and visit local institutions, business occupied the day; at about five -in the evening amusements began, and lasted till the small hours. -Carrying very pleasant memories, a tired party reached Mainglôn, on -the march back to May-m[)y]o. Most of the route lay along a well-graded -hill-road, aligned and made by the Public Works Officer of Thibaw, a -very intelligent Shan. At each halting-place comfortable encampments -of mat and bamboo had been built by direction of Mr. Stirling,[270] -Superintendent, and the Chief, my good friend Saw Hkè.[271] - -A charming tour took us the round of the maritime districts, Tavoy, -Mergui, Akyab, Kyaukpyu, and Sandoway, in the R.I.M.S. _Dalhousie_. -We cruised in the lovely Mergui Archipelago, a summer sea set with -countless islands, rivalling in beauty the Inland Sea of Japan. Perhaps -the most noticeable sight was Elephant Island. It stands alone, its -green slopes narrowing to the sky. At low water we approached the -shore, our boat with difficulty and strenuous effort pushed over sands -hardly covered by the shallow sea. So we came to where the water -deepened, at the mouth of a gloomy cavern. Entering, we found a low, -winding, rock-roofed tunnel, just wide and high enough for our boat, -with a glimmer of daylight at the far end. Emerging, we reached the -middle of the island, a still lagoon, encircled by smooth marble walls. -A magic scene from fairyland: a snow-white ring, with an opening like -the crater of a volcano; in the midst the purple lake. One pictured -it as the secret refuge of buccaneers, who here might hide in safety. -Our time for admiring this lovely landscape was limited; too long a -stay would have imprisoned us for hours, till the tide fell and left -the tunnel navigable. Working by charts nearly a hundred years old, we -approached Victoria Point, the farthest outpost on the south, bordering -on the Siamese State of Renoung. The revival of tin-mining had begun to -make the place of some importance. Later a wireless telegraph station -was established. More recently rubber-planting has been tried. - -After a winding course over rocks and shoals, through unexplored Shan -States and savage hills where head-hunting is still fitfully pursued, -the Chindwin joins the Irrawaddy above Pakôkku. Passing between banks -clad with dense forest, we desecrated with steam and smoke silent -reaches glamorous with romance. The march of progress is gradually -dissipating the mist which yet still clings to this river of ancient -story. Here and there a court-house or a military police post marks -the advance of civilization. Inland the woodman's axe resounds in the -primeval forest. A coal-mine, one of the many promising but faithless -ventures of the prospector, makes a deep cavern in a hillside. We -explored it for a considerable way by the light of naked, guttering -candles; no Davy lamps in that mine. On the Chindwin are still current -stories with an old-world ring. There you will see a little monastery -at the water's edge. Above that point, though snakes abound, they have -no power to harm. On one side of the line thus marked, if a snake bites -you, prepare to die; cross the line, the same snake may bite you with -no worse effect than a fleeting sting. Walking through a village, to -test the story we asked a man if there were many snakes. "Oh yes," he -replied; "but, of course, they do no harm. I was bitten yesterday." -And he showed on his leg the mark of recent fangs. The reason of this -interesting difference is comparatively simple. Once upon a time the -countryside was ravaged by a gigantic serpent. The King himself, in -the fearless old fashion, gave battle to the snake, and, after a -desperate struggle, slew it and cut it in half. The two pieces he flung -into the river. Now, the head-piece, where are the poisonous fangs, -floated down-stream; the tail-piece, where there are none, floated -upwards. You see the result. If you go farther north, you will come -to a village where the people have the fascinating power of turning -themselves into tigers. We went no higher than Homalin, and missed the -chance of verifying this attractive legend. It was poor compensation to -land at Thangthut, the capital of a very small Shan Chief, to find a -stack of polo-sticks in his haw,[272] and to learn that Manipuris, the -originators of the game, sent teams to play polo with the Sawbwa and -his staff. - -Talking of tigers reminds me of one or two stories which may find a -place here. Real tigers are common to many parts of the Province. -One day a tiger came upon two little girls in the jungle, seized the -younger, and was trotting off with her. The elder sister, a girl of -about twelve, took off her tamein[273] and flapped the tiger about the -face till the astonished beast dropped the child and fled. The truth -of this story is proved by the fact that Government gave the girl a -silk tamein in recognition of her courage and presence of mind. Another -time, quite recently, a woodman was seized by a tiger. He cut at him -with his da[274] till the tiger dropped him and retreated. The man, -enraged at being attacked, followed and slashed him again, his only -weapon being a long wood-cutting knife. Another authentic story, of an -earlier date, tells how a tiger was killed by a man armed only with -da. We may hesitate to believe people who tell us that Burmans are not -brave. - -The American who declined to go to the Taj Mahal because he had not -come to India to see tombs, when he came to Burma would not look at -Pagan because he had not come to see pagodas. Described once for all by -Sir Henry Yule in "The Court of Ava," in its way Pagan is one of the -most remarkable places in the world. The seat of an ancient dynasty, -it lies along the bank of the Irrawaddy below Myingyan. Pagodas, -literally for miles and in hundreds, fill the landscape as far as eye -can see. All varied styles of Buddhist architecture, with many traces -of Hindu influence, are represented. Here is the renowned Ananda -Pagoda, among the most famous of Buddhist shrines. Here, too, are -solemn, stately figures of the four Buddhas[275] who have yet visited -the earth. As the ages roll by, other Buddhas will descend for the -regeneration of the world. - -Not very far below Pagan, illustrative of a strange mingling of ancient -and modern, is the most productive of the oil-fields of Burma, that -of Yenangyaung. In 1886, reviewing the prospects of mineral discovery -in Upper Burma, we prophesied before we knew. We went nap, as might -be said, on coal, and took but little interest in petroleum. The -development of the oil-fields is the most striking feature of the -economic history of the Province for the past twenty-five years. The -search for coal has been uniformly disappointing. The Yenangyaung field -was worked in former times by crude native methods. Into shallow wells -dug by hand men went down, clad in a sort of diver's costume, and -laboriously baled out oil with a bucket. The out-turn was comparatively -small. The wells were owned by a close corporation of local Burmans -known as twinzas,[276] who had exclusive hereditary rights. All the oil -extracted had to be sold to the King at a fixed price. Of late years -the oil-fields have been exploited with all the resources of modern -science by companies who, by grant or purchase, have acquired rights -over wells and oil-bearing land. The Burma Oil Company were pioneers -of the industry. It was under the auspices of my friend Sir Campbell -Kirkman Finlay, Managing Director of the company, that I twice visited -Yenangyaung. One of my visits was marked by the spouting of the most -productive well yet struck in Burma. The oil-field is a busy bustling -place, covered with tall derricks and giving employment to many -drillers and mechanics. Side by side with modern scientific extraction -may be seen the primitive native methods still practised. Over all is a -Warden to enforce the elaborate rules necessary to safeguard the field -against danger from fire and to prevent its premature exhaustion. From -the wells runs a pipe-line conveying oil for about two hundred and -seventy-five miles to the refinery at Syriam, where a populous town -has sprung up. The latest report gives the total quantity of petroleum -produced in Burma as 222,000,000 gallons, a very small fraction of the -world's production. - -Our tours on the Irrawaddy and Chindwin were made in steamers of the -Royal Indian Marine and in the house-boat already mentioned. Among -Indian Marine officers I had many friends. One I may mention by name, -Lieutenant H. R. Bowers, was with us on several tours. The son of -Captain A. Bowers, R.N.R., long resident in Burma, who had accompanied -Colonel Sladen's mission to Yunnan in 1868, he had close hereditary -associations with the Province. From the first he impressed us as an -officer of great promise, capable and self-reliant. I bade him farewell -on the eve of his departure, full of hope and pride, for the journey -whereon he died a hero's death among Antarctic snows. His memory lives -in the hearts of his countrymen. - -My final tour brought me at last to the lovely lake of Indawgyi, -which I had in vain tried to reach in 1894.[277] From Hopin on the Mu -Valley Railway the distance is only some thirty miles, which we rode -leisurely in three or four easy stages. With us were Mr. Hertz,[278] -the very able and distinguished Deputy Commissioner of Myitkyina, and -Mr. W. Scott, one of his Assistant Superintendents, whose knowledge -of Kachin language, folklore, and customs is extensive and peculiar. -Very impressive is the panorama of the lake, lying in a semi-circle -of hills, with few traces of civilized intrusion. A pagoda here and -there on its green banks adds a picturesque touch to the scene. We -sought but did not find the floating islands of which we had heard long -ago. Indawgyi lies on the border of a fertile country once populous, -but devastated after a Kachin rising not long before the Annexation. -It is slowly recovering, and as population increases will once more -be a rich harvest-field. Thence we paid a last visit to Myitkyina -and the confluence.[279] More precious than the Commissioner, the -Lieutenant-Governor was not allowed to shoot the rapids. He was -induced to skirt them on a pony. Of the rise and progress of Myitkyina -I have already written. Then for the last time, with many regrets, we -passed through the glorious First Defile and bade farewell to it for -ever. - -It were ungracious to close this discursive record without expressing -my grateful obligations to those who worked with me in the last -responsible years of my service. No Lieutenant-Governor ever had a -better personal staff or more capable Secretaries. If I take leave -to mention Mr. F. C. Gates,[280] Mr. W. F. Rice, C.S.I., Mr. Lionel -Jacob,[281] Mr. R. E. V. Arbuthnot, Mr. G. F. Arnold, C.I.E., Mr. -F. Lewisohn among Secretaries; Major F. J. Fraser, the late Mr. D. -Shearme, Captain A. F. S. Hill, R.E., Mr. C. S. Pennell, Captain E. L. -Caldecott, R.A., among officers of the personal Staff, it is not that -I value less highly the loyalty and good service of their colleagues. -If I were to mention Commissioners, district, and departmental officers -to whom I am indebted, I must name practically the whole Commission and -plagiarize many pages of the Civil List. - -So after a chequered career we bade farewell to Burma, fairest and -brightest of Eastern lands, the memory of whose happy people will -always be enshrined in our hearts. - - - - -GLOSSARY - - -[Containing only Burmese words used more than once, or not explained in -text or notes.] - - _amat_ = Minister. - - _atu-ma-shi_ = incomparable. "There is none like her--none." - - _bein-sa_ = opium-eater. - - _bo_ = chief, leader. - - _da_ = a knife of any sort. - - _Ein-she-min_ = heir-apparent. - - _gyi_ = great. - - _hlutdaw_ = Council of State. - - _kala_ = barbarian, a foreigner from the West. - - _kappiya-taga_ = a lay attendant of a monastery. - - _kin-bya_ = a somewhat familiar form of address. - - _ko-mi_ = a game of cards. - - _ku-tho-daw_ = royal merit. - - _kyaung_ = monastery. - - _kyaung-taga_ = founder of a monastery. - - _maung_ = much the same as "Mr." - - _min_ = King, lord. - - _mingyi_ = great lord, high official; in this book, one of the four - chief Ministers of State. - - _min-laung_ = an embryo _min_. - - _min-tha_ = Prince, son of a _min_. - - _Mi-paya_ = Queen. - - _m[)y]o_ = city, town, township, circle. - - _m[)y]o-ôk_ = officer in charge of a township, a member of the - Subordinate Civil Service. - - _m[)y]o-ôk-gavaw_ = M[)y]o-ôk's wife. - - _m[)y]o-sa_ = a title of a Shan chief (in his book). - - _m[)y]o-thu-gyi_ = head of a _m[)y]o_ or circle. - - _m[)y]o-wun_ = town magistrate. - - _nan_ } = palace. - _nandaw_ } - - _nat_ = a spiritual being. - - _neik-ban_--_Nirvána_ = the state of rest. - - _pa-dauk_ = a tree yielding excellent timber and bearing lovely - flowers. - - _pa-ya_ = a pagoda, a sacred image, a title of honour = lord. - - _pè-nin_ = helmsman. - - _pôn-gyi_ = a monk; literally, "great glory." - - _pôn-na_ = Hindus of Mandalay, descendants of captives from Assam or - Manipur. - - _pwè_ = an assembly, most commonly an entertainment of a dramatic - nature. - - _pya-that_ = a terraced spire. - - _sa-daw_ = a monk of high position. - - _Saw-bwa_ = a title of a Shan chief. - - _sa-ye-daw-gyi_ = clerks or secretaries of the _hlutdaw_. - - _shwe_ = gold, golden. - - _Su-paya_ = a Princess of royal birth on both sides. - - _taik_ = a territorial division, called in English a "circle." - - _taik-thu-gyi_ = headman of a circle. - - _tamein_ = a woman's skirt. - - _taung-ya_ = hill-cultivation. - - _tha-tha-na-baing_ = head of the monastic Order. - - _thu-gyi_ = headman; literally, "great man." - - _twet_ = a term applied to a monk who renounces his Order. - - _win_ = a house and grounds. - - _wun_ = an official title of varying denotation. - - _yo-ma_ = a range of hills; literally, "backbone." - - _za-yat_ = a rest-house. - - _ze-gyo_ = the great bazaar or market at Mandalay. - - - - -FOOTNOTES: - - -[1] _Môk-so-bo-myo_, the hunter's city. - -[2] See p. 107. - -[3] Great or headman of the circle. - -[4] Principal taxpayer. - -[5] Headman of the village. - -[6] Members of the Provincial Civil Service. - -[7] Literally, heads of townships, members of the Subordinate Civil -Service. - -[8] Major-General T. Lowndes, I.S.C. - -[9] Mr. B. Ribbentrop, C.I.E. - -[10] The late Sir Augustus Rivers Thompson, K.C.S.I., Lieut.-Governor -of Bengal. - -[11] This term, formerly in ordinary use, is now obsolete. - -[12] Paddy is the local name for unhusked rice. - -[13] _Gyi_, great. - -[14] Major-General Horace Browne, I.S.C. - -[15] Colonel C. H. E. Adamson, C.I.E. - -[16] Mr. A. H. Hildebrand, C.I.E. - -[17] Called after General Godwin, who commanded the force in the Second -War. - -[18] The population of Rangoon in 1881 was 134,176; in 1911 it numbered -293,316. In 1878 its trade was valued at £10,484,469, as compared with -£32,040,000 in 1911 (private trade alone). - -[19] A Chief Commissioner, newly arrived, whose face was not yet -familiar, was told by a barber in the town, in the course of his -ministration, that he should try to join the gymkhana, as that was the -way to get into society. - -[20] Afterwards of the Commission. - -[21] _Nat_, a spiritual being in Burmese mythology. For a full account -of nats the curious may refer to Sir Richard Temple's learned and -sumptuous work "The Thirty-Seven Nats." - -[22] This is, however, a matter of taste. A lady told me that the only -thing which made it worth while to come to Rangoon was the Strand -Hotel, with its general comfort and its incomparable omelette. The -pagoda merely impressed her as "a messy place." Perhaps she was only -playing upon the poor Indian's simplicity. - -[23] _Kala_ is as nearly as possible barbarian, and has a connotation -of contempt. It is applied by the Burmese to all foreigners from the -West, Indians or Europeans. A Chinaman is a cousin, so is a Siamese. -Neither of these is a kala. - -[24] The late Mr. G. D. Burgess, C.S.I. - -[25] The late Sir Charles Aitchison, K.C.S.I., successively Member of -Council and Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab. - -[26] Maung Pe, I.S.O., K.S.M. - -[27] The first Viceroy was Lord Canning. Many people erroneously think -that Clive or, perhaps, Warren Hastings was the first who attained that -dignity. - -[28] _Mingyi_, one of the four principal ministers. Literally, great -lord. - -[29] _Mintha_, prince. - -[30] See p. 126. - -[31] There is a subtlety here. _Ko_ is one of the Burmese equivalents -of Mr., more respectful than Maung. - -[32] Council of State at Mandalay. - -[33] As to grammar, Latter helped us in those early years. Students of -to-day, more fortunate, have the invaluable help of Mr. Bridges' book. - -[34] What it really wrote was "clearness and simplicity." - -[35] Early breakfast. - -[36] The late Colonel F. D. Maxwell, C.I.E. - -[37] The late Sir Edward Spence Symes, K.C.I.E. - -[38] Sir Colin Scott-Moncrieff, K.C.S.I., K.C.M.G. - -[39] The late Sir Charles Bernard, K.C.S.I., for some years Secretary -in the Revenue and Statistics Department at the India Office. - -[40] "Don't let them do that, they'll take me for a Burmese Minister," -he called out, as officious underlings were hustling some carts out of -his path as he rode through Mandalay. - -[41] Among many mistaken appreciations of Burmese character is the -notion that Burmans have no sense of gratitude. This story indicates -the contrary. Since my retirement I have been touched by the frequent -receipt of letters and other tokens of remembrance from Burmese friends -obviously disinterested. - -[42] _Ti_, an umbrella; also the ornamental summit of a pagoda. - -[43] The Arakan Pagoda, as we call it, at Mandalay. - -[44] Sergeant or Thugyi's wife. - -[45] _A-pyo-gyi._ - -[46] _Tha-yet-m[)y]o_, not the city of mangoes, as might be supposed, but -the city of slaughter. - -[47] Streams. - -[48] In _taungya_ cultivation, the farmer prepares a piece of -forest-land by setting fire to the trees and undergrowth, and -fertilizing the ground with the ashes. Rice and vegetables are sown -broadcast. Except by careful Chins, the same piece of land is not used -again till the forest growth has been renewed. It is a wasteful plan, -rightly discouraged. - -[49] Tiger fence. - -[50] _Da_, a knife; in this case a Burmese sword. - -[51] _Paso_, _lôngyi_, skirts worn by Burmese men, the former of ampler -size. - -[52] The Burmese man's headgear. - -[53] Local civil officer. - -[54] In Mandalay, in 1886, a _parvenu_ official was guilty of the same -breach of decorum on entering my office. I made no remark at the time, -but I mentioned the incident to his friends. The Prime Minister seemed -surprised that the earth had not opened and swallowed up that fearful -man. The offence was not repeated. - -[55] Now Sir John Jardine, K.C.I.E., M.P. for Roxburghshire. - -[56] Elephant driver. - -[57] Colonel William Cooke, lately Commissary-General in Madras. - -[58] _Atwin Wun_, one of the classes of Ministers, so called from being -nominally employed inside (atwin) the Palace, near the person of the -King. - -[59] As Burma was not under the Madras Government, this arrangement was -anomalous and inconvenient; after the war it was abolished. - -[60] The late Sir Godfrey Clerk, K.C.V.O., C.B. - -[61] Now Colonel Sir Neville Chamberlain, K.C.B., K.C.V.O., Inspector- -General, Royal Irish Constabulary. - -[62] Major-General Sir George Pretyman, K.C.M.G., C.B., R.A., whom I -met not again till he came to succeed Sir Donald Macleod at May-m[)y]o, -where he spent the last year of his service in command of the Burma -Division. - -[63] _Yôma_, a range of hills; literally, backbone. - -[64] The Right Honourable Sir Henry Primrose, P.C., K.C.B., C.S.I., -I.S.O. - -[65] The Earl of Cromer, P.C., G.C.B., O.M., G.C.M.G., K.C.S.I., C.I.E. - -[66] Guardians of the Royal life. - -[67] Sir Charles Crosthwaite, K.C.S.I. - -[68] Mr. C. G. Bayne, C.S.I., whose early retirement deprived the -Province of an invaluable officer. - -[69] Sir Alfred Irwin, C.S.I., lately a Judge of the Chief Court. - -[70] The Myingun Prince was a son of Mindôn Min, who in the year 1867 -rebelled against his father. Defeated, he fled to Lower Burma, where he -continued to plan mischief. He was deported to India; later, he escaped -to French territory, and lived for many years at Saigon. He was long -a source of some apprehension to Government, and a likely cause of -trouble; but I think for some time he has been regarded as harmless. - -[71] Messengers. - -[72] Broad hat made of bamboo. - -[73] Most of this paragraph is extracted verbatim from my Report on the -Administration of Upper Burma in 1886. - -[74] Administrative Report for 1886 _ut supra_. - -[75] _Ibid._ - -[76] A woman's skirt. - -[77] The late General Sir Harry Prendergast, V.C., G.C.B. - -[78] The late Field-Marshal Sir George White, V.C., G.C.B., G.C.S.I., -G.C.M.G., G.C.I.E., G.C.V.O., O.M., Commander-in-Chief in India, the -heroic defender of Ladysmith. - -[79] The late General Sir W. Penn Symons, K.C.B., who served with the -highest distinction in Burma and India, and met a soldier's death at -Talana Hill. - -[80] The late Sir Edward Sladen. - -[81] Nephew of Sir Arthur Phayre; he died for his country in June, -1886, at Padein, near Minbu. - -[82] The subjoined table shows the succession of the Kings of the House -of Alaungpayá. The dates and details were gathered from the lips of -Ministers in 1886: - - Alaungpayá (1752-1760). - | - +------------------+--------------------+ - | | - 2. Naungdaw 6. Bodaw Paya 3. Sinbyu-yin - Mintayagyi (1781-1819). Mintayagyi - (1760-1763). | (1763-1776). - | | | - 5. Paungga Min Einshe Min 4. Singu - (reigned seven (died before Mintayagyi - days in 1781). his father). (1776-1781). - | - +-------------------+-----------------+ - | | - 7. Bagyidaw Paya 8. Shwebo Min (King Tharrawaddy) - (1819-1838). | (1838-1846). - | - +-------------+-----------+ - | | - 9. Pagan Min 10. Mindôn Min - (1846-1852). (1852-1878). - | - 11. Thebaw Min - (1878-1885). - -[83] Royal Herald. - -[84] _Wun_, a local official of varying rank; probably in this case -about equal to a subdivisional officer. - -[85] Head revenue officer. - -[86] Major-General T. Lowndes, I.S.C. - -[87] Colonel C. H. E. Adamson, C.I.E. - -[88] Wife (in this case widow) of the chief local authority. - -[89] Incomparable. - -[90] Council of Ministers. - -[91] Monastery. - -[92] The Hill of Peace. - -[93] This stone disappeared the day after the occupation of Mandalay. -It was never suggested that any of the force of occupation was guilty -of the theft. - -[94] Pagoda of Royal Merit. - -[95] U Pe Si, C.I.E., one of the first Upper Burmans to receive a -British decoration. - -[96] The late Mr. T. F. Fforde, of the Burma Commission, who died as -Deputy Commissioner of Sagaing. - -[97] Queen. - -[98] _Mintha_, prince. - -[99] See p. 30. - -[100] The late Major-General R. A. P. Clements, C.B., D.S.O. - -[101] Major-General H. d'U. Keary, C.B., D.S.O. - -[102] Colonel R. M. Rainey-Robinson, C.B. - -[103] Horse-keepers. - -[104] Technically, a dacoit is one of five or more persons banded -together for purposes of robbery. It has been the custom to apply the -term to all our opponents in Upper Burma, after the King's surrender. -Even technically, the use was almost invariably justified. - -[105] Circle headman, much like a Taik-Thugyi in Lower Burma. - -[106] Cavalrymen. - -[107] P. 130. - -[108] The Right Hon. Sir Mortimer Durand, P.C., G.C.M.G., K.C.S.I., -K.C.I.E., successively Minister at Teheran and Ambassador at Madrid and -Washington. - -[109] The late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, K.C.S.I., Chief Commissioner of -Burma, Member of Council, and Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. - -[110] Sir Donald Mackenzie Wallace, K.C.I.E., K.C.V.O., best known, -perhaps, as the author of the standard work on Russia. - -[111] Field-Marshal Lord Nicholson, G.C.B., R.E. - -[112] General Sir Ian Hamilton, G.C.B., D.S.O. - -[113] Colonel Sir Neville Chamberlain, K.C.B., K.C.V.O., Inspector- -General Royal Irish Constabulary. - -[114] Lieutenant-General Sir Reginald Pole-Carew, K.C.B., C.V.O., M.P. - -[115] Palace. - -[116] Temporary pavilion. - -[117] Mr. St. Barbe had a marked turn for letters. Some of his papers -may be found in the _Cornhill Magazine_ of the seventies. - -[118] The late Mr. G. J. S. Hodgkinson, C.S.I., afterwards the first -Judicial Commissioner of Upper Burma. - -[119] Now Mr. Taw Sein Ko, I.S.O., recipient of the Kaiser-i-Hind -medal, Superintendent of the Burma Archæological Survey. I gratefully -acknowledge much valuable help from him in the preparation of this book. - -[120] Messenger. - -[121] Raja lôg ate hain - -[122] See p. 27. - -[123] See p. 126. - -[124] See p. 67 _et seq._ - -[125] Already mentioned, p. 125. - -[126] There is one more who has lived in obscurity in Rangoon for many -years. - -[127] See p. 122. - -[128] _Supaya_ means a Princess of royal parentage on both sides. -Except the King's sister, there was in Mandalay only one real holder of -the title, the Pyinzi Supaya. - -[129] Elder royal sister. - -[130] Queen. - -[131] See p. 270. - -[132] See pp. 123-4. - -[133] See p. 210 _et seq._ - -[134] Headman of a town or circle, much like a Taik-Thugyi in Lower -Burma. - -[135] Village headman. - -[136] Sir Frederic Fryer, K.C.S.I., Chief Commissioner and first -Lieutenant-Governor of Burma. - -[137] Sir James Digges la Touche, K.C.S.I., Lieutenant-Governor of the -United Provinces and a Member of the Council of India. - -[138] The late Mr. H. P. Todd-Naylor, C.S.I., C.I.E., Commissioner and -acting Financial Commissioner. - -[139] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[140] Colonel H. A. Browning, afterwards Chief Commissioner of the -Andaman Islands. - -[141] Mr. B. S. Carey, C.I.E., Commissioner. - -[142] Mr. H. M. S. Matthews, C.S.I., Settlement Commissioner. - -[143] The late Major-General M. Prothero, C.B., C.S.I., afterwards -commanding the Burma Division. - -[144] Commander-in-Chief of the Madras Army. - -[145] Colonel E. T. Gastrell. - -[146] _Bo_, a chief or leader. - -[147] "The Pacification of Burma." - -[148] See p. 106. - -[149] Chief of eleven hundred and fifty men. He was also called the -Mobye-Sitkè-gyi. - -[150] Perhaps most familiar to English readers in "A Persian Passion -Play"--Matthew Arnold's "Essays in Criticism." - -[151] See p. 146. - -[152] This solemn farce is, I think, still played. Of course, no -astrology is needed. The method of calculation is explained in Sir -Alfred Irwin's learned book on the Burmese Calendar. - -[153] Literally, great blood-drinker, a Burmese official designation of -various connotation. Tun Baw was hereditary door-keeper and custodian -of the Hlutdaw building. He still survives in receipt of a modest -pension for faithful service. - -[154] Earthen pots. - -[155] See p. 115. - -[156] _Brinjal_, a vegetable; _jingal_, a small cannon. - -[157] See p. 123. - -[158] Lord High Admiral. - -[159] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[160] See p. 266. The Myowun died this year. - -[161] Embankment. - -[162] Fire-carriage. - -[163] Pônkan was a bogey to the people of Bhamo till it was settled, -without much difficulty, by Sir George Wolseley in 1889. - -[164] The highest title of a Shan chief. - -[165] See p. 17. - -[166] Chief wife. - -[167] House and compound. - -[168] Advisers, ministers. - -[169] See p. 149. - -[170] Mr. A. H. Hildebrand, C.I.E. - -[171] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[172] General Sir Edward Stedman, G.C.B., K.C.I.E., successively -Inspector-General of Police in Burma, Quartermaster-General in India, -General Officer Commanding the Burma Division, and Military Secretary -at the India Office, one of the most distinguished officers of the -Bengal Army. - -[173] Pickled tea. - -[174] My wife spent the hot season of 1888 at May-m[)y]o, the first -Englishwoman who ever visited it. - -[175] _Hein_, a Shan official of about the standing of a Circle Thugyi -in Burma. - -[176] 13s. 4d. - -[177] See p. 45 _et seq._ - -[178] The suppleness of Burmese women is remarkable. To lean backwards -and pick up with the eyelid a rupee placed on the floor is not an -unknown feat. - -[179] Sir George White's close connection with Upper Burma was never -forgotten. When Ladysmith was relieved, the Upper Burma Club sent -him a telegram of congratulation, of which we received a courteous -acknowledgment, probably the only instance of an exchange of telegrams -between Mandalay and Ladysmith. - -[180] A great deal of nonsense has been written from time to time on -the subject of the Burmese custom of _Shiko_. A Burman coming into -the presence of a superior, a monk, a member of the royal house, an -official, an elder of his family, adopts an attitude akin to kneeling, -and places the palms of his hands together. Placing the palms of the -hands together and slightly raising them is the essence of the attitude -of respect. It is a charming and graceful salutation. In European -schools boys are taught to adopt instead a weird caricature of a -military salute or a debased imitation of the Indian salaam, which they -do ungracefully and with the ugliest effect. I do not care very much -for the prostration on the floor, and think it may be overdone. I used -to make people of any standing sit uncomfortably on chairs. But what -objection there can be to the hands slightly lifted in reverence, a -natural and beautiful action, why it should be thought more dignified -to pretend to cast dust on the head in salaaming, I cannot understand. -The last outrage perpetrated in school is to teach boys to stand with -arms folded across their chests in the presence of their elders and -betters. - -[181] Heads of _Gaings_, that is, collections of monasteries; -assistants to _Gaing-ôks_, heads of large monastic institutions. -Roughly, I think, this is a fair interpretation. In speaking of -these dignitaries, I abstain from the common practice of using the -nomenclature of Christian Churches. The analogies are superficial. - -[182] In this instance a formal document setting forth the terms of the -recognition. - -[183] A Hindu gentleman, orthodox but emancipated, after a tour in -Burma, did me the honour of dining at my table. In the course of the -evening he said to me that, after seeing Burma, he thought it much to -be regretted that Buddhism had not maintained itself as the prevailing -religion of India. - -[184] One patriarchal Deputy Commissioner made a law that carts -entering his headquarter town, at least by the road which passed his -house, should not creak. Every cart before long carried a small pot -of oil, and at a respectful distance halted while the wheels were -effectively greased. - -[185] _Thein_, a very sacred building, containing images of the -Buddha, where ordination services are held. The land on which a -_thein_ is built must be sacred in perpetuity and granted by the King. -In modern practice grants of land for _theins_ are signed by the -Lieutenant-Governor himself. - -[186] See p. 45 _et seq._ - -[187] A feast and presentation of gifts to monks. - -[188] A monk of high position. - -[189] This excellent example has, I am glad to say, been followed. -Several gaols are regularly visited by monks, who exhort prisoners to -repentance and a new life. - -[190] Then Commissioner of the Irrawaddy Division. - -[191] Government. - -[192] "The Pacification of Burma," by Sir Charles Crosthwaite. (Arnold, -1912.) - -[193] Terraced spires over the gates. - -[194] See p. 106. - -[195] I need not mention this sportsman's name. It was neither Andrew -Thomson nor Jem Bernard. - -[196] Messengers. - -[197] Store-room. - -[198] Valet. - -[199] Table-servant. - -[200] The late Mr. D. M. Smeaton, C.S.I., for some years M.P. for -Stirlingshire. - -[201] Hidden by the curtain. - -[202] Panthays are Chinese Mohammedans of Yunnan. - -[203] Mr. H. F. Hertz, C.I.E. - -[204] _Cf._ "The Pacification of Burma," p. 239 _et seq._ - -[205] Brigadier-General Hugh O'Donnell, C.B., D.S.O. - -[206] A curious sight often to be seen outside of Bhamo was a drove of -pigs brought from China, each pig at night picketed to a small peg. -Hard by baskets of walnuts deluded the stranger into the belief that -the pigs, like pack-bullocks, were made to carry the baskets. - -[207] The station of that name on the Myitkyina line used perversely to -be called by railway engineers "One-two." - -[208] Mr. Fielding-Hall, the accomplished author of "The Soul of a -People." - -[209] Sir Frank Campbell Gates, K.C.I.E., C.S.I., Financial Commissioner -of Burma. - -[210] Now a Judge of the Chief Court. - -[211] "The Pacification of Burma." - -[212] It remained for the ingenuity of the Courts in later years to -discover that in the eye of the law the headman was not a respectable -inhabitant. - -[213] Lieutenant-Colonel D. J. C. Macnabb, C.S.I., Commissioner of the -Minbu division. - -[214] Colonel F. M. Rundall, C.B., D.S.O. - -[215] Lieutenant-Colonel F. S. Le Quesne, V.C., R.A.M.C. - -[216] Mr. E. S. Carr, now Conservator of Forests. - -[217] Afterwards Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. - -[218] Lord MacDonnell of Swinford, P.C., G.C.S.I., K.C.V.O. - -[219] Sir Edward Stedman, already often mentioned. - -[220] Mr. A. H. Hildebrand, C.I.E. - -[221] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[222] "The Pacification of Burma." - -[223] A full account of the Shans is to be found in Mrs. Leslie Milne's -charming book, "The Shans at Home." - -[224] _Myelat_ = middle country--the name given to the small Western -States bordering on Burma proper. - -[225] The Honourable Saw Maung (_Sao Mawng_), C.I.E., K.S.M., Member of -the Local Legislative Council. - -[226] See note, p. 138. - -[227] Mounted military police. - -[228] Sun helmet. - -[229] Sir G. W. Shaw, C.S.I., acting Lieutenant-Governor of Burma. - -[230] Nursery of seedlings. - -[231] Mr. E. C. S. George, C.I.E., I.C.S. (retired), whom ill-health -alone prevented from attaining the highest distinction. - -[232] See p. 250. - -[233] General the Right Honourable Sir Henry Brackenbury, P.C., G.C.B., -K.C.S.I., R.A. - -[234] Sir William John Cuningham, K.C.S.I. - -[235] Now Major-General Sir Hamilton Bower, K.C.B., recently commanding -the Abor Expedition. - -[236] Arrangements. - -[237] Surgeon-General O. E. P. Lloyd, V.C., R.A.M.C. - -[238] See p. 76. - -[239] Early breakfast. - -[240] In recent years much of the country east of the 'Nmaikha has been -taken under administration. Forts have been built and roads made far -north of 'Nsentaru. - -[241] See p. 305. - -[242] _Kazins._ - -[243] Maung Aung Zan, K.S.M., District Judge. See p. 25. - -[244] A viss was then equal to 3.65 pounds avoirdupois. It has now been -standardized at 3.60 pounds. - -[245] Native servant (_bhai_). - -[246] A dacoit leader in Tharrawaddy in the early days of the -pacification of Pegu (1852-1860). This reward was offered by the -Government of India instead of the modest two thousand suggested by -Sir Arthur Phayre. Gaung Gyi went across the frontier when Tharrawaddy -became too hot. I met some of his descendants in Mandalay. - -[247] Major W. R. Stone, I.A. - -[248] I refrain from specifying many others, still living, lest by -naming some I seem to slight others equally worthy. - -[249] See p. 122. - -[250] See p. 166. - -[251] For years afterwards, perhaps to this day, as a measure of -superabundant caution, the city gates were closed early in the night, -to the annoyance and inconvenience of strayed revellers returning late -from dance or dinner without the walls. - -[252] Brigadier-General W. H. Dobbie, C.B., commanding a brigade in -India. - -[253] See p. 195. - -[254] For many years Chinese adviser to the Government of Burma. - -[255] Colonel F. B. Longe, C.B., R.E., formerly Surveyor-General in -India. - -[256] Colonel E. W. M. Norie, A.D.C., Assistant Military Secretary at -the War Office. - -[257] Major J. W. L. ffrench-Mullen, C.I.E., Commandant of the -Myitkyina Battalion of Military Police. - -[258] A temporary hall built for the occasion, of mats and bamboos, -gaily adorned with flowers and curtains and paper ornaments. - -[259] Teacher. - -[260] See p. 115. - -[261] Sir Harvey Adamson, K.C.S.I., Lieutenant-Governor of Burma, -formerly Member of the Council of the Governor-General. - -[262] The late Sir Denzil Ibbetson, K.C.S.I., Lieutenant-Governor of -the Punjab. - -[263] The late Sir Edward Baker, K.C.S.I., afterwards Lieutenant- -Governor of Bengal, whose early death we have had but lately to deplore. - -[264] I am aware that he has to obtain the Viceroy's concurrence; but -he has the advantage of the last word. - -[265] I need hardly say (as I proposed it) that I regard this as a -sound measure. - -[266] See note on p. 295. - -[267] Some of these officers are Arakanese, one a Talaing; all are -natives of Burma. - -[268] I must not be thought to regard these addresses with levity. I -appreciated them highly, and have preserved them all. - -[269] I have elsewhere paid my humble tribute of respect to Dr. -Cushing's memory. The first person to join with me in lamenting his -loss was the Right Reverend Bishop Cardot, of the Roman Catholic -Church. Our own Bishop was not backward in expressing his sorrow and -appreciation. In Burma, at least, there is some unity among Christians. - -[270] Mr. G. C. B. Stirling, C.I.E. - -[271] See p. 175. - -[272] House of a Shan Chief. - -[273] Skirt. - -[274] Knife, of any size. - -[275] Kakusandha, Konagamana, Kassapa, Gaudama. - -[276] Eaters (= owners) of wells. - -[277] See p. 250. - -[278] Mr. W. A. Hertz, C.S.I. - -[279] See p. 249. - -[280] Sir Frank Campbell Gates, K.C.I.E., C.S.I. - -[281] Sir Lionel Jacob, K.C.S.I., too soon carried off to be Secretary -to the Government of India in the Public Works Department. - - - - -INDEX - - - Adamson, Colonel C. H. E., 9, 114, 123, 166, 213, 221 - - Adamson, Sir H., 8, 284, 286 - - Aitchison, Sir C. U., 18, 26 - - Akyab, 297, 299 - - Alaungpaya, 2, 107, 108, 216 - - Allan-myo, 74 _et seq._ - - Allen, Mr. C. F. E., 17, 171 - - Amarapura, 120, 181 - - Annexation of Upper Burma, 140, 142 - - Arakan Pagoda, 121, 197, 200 - - Arbuthnot, Mr. R. E. V., 306 - - Ardagh, Sir J., 244 - - Arnold, Mr. G. F., 306 - - Art industries, 63 _et seq._ - - Atlay, Mr. F., 204 - - A-tu-ma-shi Monastery, 118, 121 - - Aung, Maung Myat Tun, 295 - - Ava, 106, 129, 130, 132 - - Ava, Earl of, 138 - - Aw, Bo, 207 - - - Baber, Mr. C., 222 - - Bahadur Shah, 208, 209 - - Bakht, Mirza Jamshíd, 209 - - Bakht, Prince Jawan, 209 - - Banmauk, 252 - - Barnes, Sir H. S., 286 - - Bassein, 10, 17, 74, 260, 297 - - Baw, Tun, 164 - - Bayne, Mr. C. G., 90, 94, 207, 218 - - Beresford, Lord W., 139, 244 - - Bernard, Sir C. E., 52, 53, 92, 94, 95, 104, 114, 115, 116, 125, 134, - 136, 140, 143, 144, 149, 154, 155, 157, 160, 161, 168, 170, 173, 176, - 182, 189, 257 - - Bernard, Mr. J. H., 144 - - Bernard-myo, 203 - - Bhamo, 170, 211 _et seq._, 223, 239, 242, 244, 251, 252, 272, 287 - - Bigaudet, Bishop, 49 - - Boat-races, 61 - - Bôn, Thandawzin So, 111 - - Bower, Sir H., 245 - - Bowers, Captain A., 304 - - Bowers, Lieutenant H. R., 304 - - Boxing, 73 - - Brackenbury, Sir H., 244 - - Bradford, Sir E., 224 - - Bridges, Mr. J. E., 173 - - Briscoe, Rev. J. D., 86 - - Browning, Colonel H. A., 158 - - Buddha, relics of, 199 - - Buddhism, 183 _et seq._ - - Burgess, Mr. G. D., 18, 19, 20, 24, 51, 81, 90, 92, 95, 99, 156, 217, - 255, 277 - - Burma, Lower, disorder in, 137, 221 - - Bwa, Maung Ba, 261, 264 - - Bya, U., 25 - - - Caldecott, Captain E. L., 306 - - Cardot, Bishop, 298 - - Carew, Sir R. Pole-, 138 - - Carey, Mr. B. S., 158, 221 - - Carter, Mr. G. M. S., 114, 166, 204 - - Carving, wood, 65 - - Caste, absence of, 67 - - Cattle theft, 80 - - Chamberlain, Sir N., 88, 138 - - Chesney, Sir G., 116 - - Chess, Burmese, 57 - - Chief Court, 280, 285 - - Chindwin River, 10, 300 - - Chin-lôn, 59 - - Chin Hills, 170, 221 - - Chinese Boundary, 244, 271 _et seq._ - - Chinese, relations with, 243 - - Chinese Shan States, 275 - - Chisholm, Mr. M. J., 114 - - Cho, Bo, 161, 259, 260 - - Churchill, Lord R., 122, 258 - - Claims against Government, 169 - - Clandeboye, Lord, 138 - - Class distinctions, 151 - - Clements, Major-General R. A. P., 129, 133 - - Clerk, Sir G., 88 - - Climate, 85 - - Cloney, Mr. E. P., 217 - - Cock-fighting, 59 - - Collins, Mr. G. G., 14, 106 - - Connaught, T.R.H. the Duke and Duchess of, 287 - - Connaught, H.R.H. Princess Patricia of, 287 - - Cooke, Colonel W., 86 - - Cooper, Captain, 103 - - Co-operative Credit Movement, 297 - - Copleston, Mr. F. S., 280, 285 - - Courneuve, Mr. de la, 51 - - Cromer, Earl of, 89 - - Crosthwaite, Sir C. H. T., 90, 161, 168, 201, 203, 219, 231, 233, 234, - 257 - - Cuningham, Sir W. J., 244 - - Curzon, Earl, 286, 287, 288 - - Cushing, Rev. J. N., 298 - - - Dacoits, 132, 161 - - d'Avéra, M., 30 - - Davies, Colonel H. N., 86 - - Decentralization Commission, 81, 292 - - Defile, First, 215, 251, 306 - Second, 214 - - Delhi, Durbar, at, 130, 284 - - Delhi, Royal Family of, 208-10 - - Deputy Commissioner, position and powers of, 23 - - Disarmament, 168 - - Divorce, 71, 72 - - Dobbie, Brigadier-General, 269 - - Drever, Captain J. W., 248 - - Drinks, intoxicating, 56, 57 - - Dufferin and Ava, Marquis of, 138, 139, 141, 166 - - Dufferin and Ava, Marchioness of, 139, 141 - - Dun, Captain E. W., 178 - - Durand, Sir H. M., 138 - - Durians, 68 - - Dutt, Mr. R. C., 293 - - - Education, elementary, 184 - - Einshemin, 122, 149 - - Elgin, Earl of, 284 - - Eliott, Mr. L., 213 - - Elliott, Sir C., 224 - - English, Mr. A. E., 297 - - Eyre, Colonel G. S., 106, 123, 259 - - - Fenwick, Major, 129 - - Ferrars, Mr. M. H., 34 - - Fforde, Mr. T. F., 5, 123, 166 - - ffrench-Mullen, Major J. W. L., 272 - - Finlay, Sir C. K., 304 - - Fleming, Mr. A. S., 106, 123, 218, 237 - - Football, 59 - - Forde, Brigadier-General, 105 - - Forest Department, 6 - - Fowler, Mr. E. O., 221 - - Fraser, Major F. J., 306 - - Fryer, Sir F. W. R., 156, 218, 235, 237, 256 - - - Gambling, 57-59 - - Gastrell, Colonel E. T., 159 - - Gates, Sir F. C., 218, 306 - - George, Mr. E. C. S., 242, 245, 251, 271, 272, 277, 298 - - Gordon, Mr. R., 51 - - Grant, General U. S., 32 - - Grey, Colonel W. F. H., 86 - - Gyaw, Maung Tin, 261, 263, 264 - - Gyi, Gaung, 260 - - - Hall, Mr. Fielding, 217 - - Hamilton, Sir I., 138 - - Harvey, Mr. W. L., 289 - - Hassan, Prince, 152, 210 - - Henzada, 10, 261 - - Hertz, Mr. H. F., 213, 274 - - Hertz, Mr. W. A., 305 - - Hildebrand, Mr. A. H., 9, 176, 179, 226, 227, 233 - - Hill, Captain A. F. S., 306 - - Hindus and Mahomedans, 234 _et seq._ - - Hkè, Saw, 175, 299 - - Hladwe Sadaw, 189 - - Hlaingdet, 231 - - Hlethin Atwinwun, 166 - - Hlutdaw, 118, 122, 123, 134, 143, 144, 145 - - Hlwa, Maung, 129 - - Hodgkinson, Mr. G. J. S., 144, 207 - - Hopin, 305 - - Houghton, Mr. B., 222 - - - Ibbetson, Sir D., 18, 289 - - Ilbert Bill, 92-94 - - Imlumshan, 277 - - Indawgyi, 305 - - Inle, 231 - - Insects, 84 - - Irrawaddy, _passim_ - - Irrawaddy Division, 260 - - Irrigation works, 240 - - Irwin, Sir A. M. B., 95, 163 - - - Jacob, Sir L. M., 306 - - Jade Mines, 213, 250 - - James, Mr. H. W., 83 - - Jardine, Sir J., 82 - - Jubilee, H.M. Queen Victoria's, 173, 180 - - Judicial Administration, 5 - - - Kachin Hills, 170, 211, 214, 221, 242, 245 - - Kachins, 241-242 - - Kalaw, 231 - - Kale, 226 - - Kanaung, 95 - - Kansi La, 213 - - Kansi Naung, 213 - - Karenni, 172, 226 - - Katha, 217, 239, 252 - - Kaunghmu-daw Pagoda, 135 - - Kawlin, 217 - - Kawlin Mintha, 148 - - Keary, Major-General H. d'U., 129 - - Kengtung (Kyaingtôn), 177, 225, 227, 298 - - Kheddah, Elephant, 181 - - King Mindôn, 27 _et seq._, 100, 109, 125, 148, 149, 166, 169, 180, 216 - - King Pagan, 27, 147 - - King Thebaw, 29, 107, 108, 109, 118, 125, 126, 169 - - Kinwun Mingyi, 30, 101, 103, 104, 106, 109, 120, 134, 147, 186, 217, - 267 - - Ko, Mr. Taw Sein, 144 - - Kuthodaw Paya, 122 - - Kyangin, 95 - - Kyan-hnyat, 203 - - Kyankmyaung Atwinwun, 86 - - Kyaukpyu, 295, 299 - - Kyi, Maung Shwe, 6 - - Kyimyin Mipaya, 125 - - - Lacquer-work, 64 - - Ladysmith, 182 - - Land Alienation, 296 - - Lansdowne, Marquis of, 244 - - Lansdowne, Marchioness of, 244 - - Lasa, 275 - - Lashio, 10, 254 - - La Touche, Sir J. D., 156 - - Lat, Maung, 79 _et seq._ - - Le, Ma Twe, 180 - - Le Quesne, Colonel F. S., 221 - - Le, Yindaw Ma, 180 - - Ledi Sadaw, 197 _et seq._ - - Lely, Sir F. P., 293 - - Let-pet, 63 - - Lewisohn, Mr. F., 306 - - Limban Mipaya, 150 - - Liu, General, 272 _et seq._ - - Lloyd, Surgeon-General O. E. P., 245 - - Loch, Mr., 159 - - Longe, Colonel F. B., 272 - - Lowndes, Major-General T., 5, 114, 115, 135 - - Lu, Saw, 175 - - Lu, Twet Nga, 227 - - Lytton, Earl of, 27 - - - MacDermott, Mr. B. K. S., 82, 216 - - MacDonnell, Lord, 224 - - Mackenzie, Sir A., 138, 234, 235, 255, 256, 257 - - Macnabb, Colonel D. J. C., 221, 261 - - Macpherson, Sir H., 159 - - Mahomedans and Hindus, 235 _et seq._ - - Maingkaing Myosa, 180 - - Mainglôn, 173, 299 - - Maingtôn, 173 - - Mali-kha, 248, 249 - - Mandalay, _passim_ - - Mansi, 252 - - Marriage customs, 71, 146 - - Matang (Matin), 276 - - Mathews, Mr. H. M. S., 158 - - Maung, Saw, 232-233 - - Mawlamyaing-gyun, 41 - - Maxwell, Colonel F. D., 51, 198 - - May, Colonel, 178 - - Maym[)y]o, 178, 231, 254, 299 - - Meiktila Supaya, 149 - - Mergui, 299 - - Min, Maung Tun, 295 - - Minbu, 156 - - Mindôn Min, 27 _et seq._, 100, 109, 125, 148, 149, 166, 169, 180, 216 - - Mingin, Wun of, 111-113 - - Minhla, 106, 114, 123 - - Ministers, Council of, 145-146 - - Minto, Earl of, 149, 287, 293 - - Minto, Countess of, 287 - - Missions, 49, 50 - - Mobôn, 75 - - Mogaung, 213, 250 - - Mogôk, 177, 204, 205, 252, 298, 299 - - Momien, 214 - - Möñgmit (Momeik), 298 - - Monks, Buddhist, 161, 183 _et seq._ - - Morley, Viscount, 293 - - Morrison, Dr., 214 - - Morton, Captain B., 245 - - Moulmein, 10 - - Myanaung, 95 _et seq._ - - Myaung-m[)y]a, 40, 73 - - Myedè, 74 _et seq._ - - Myelat, 225, 231, 233 - - Myingun, Prince, 96, 125, 148 - - Myingyan, 106, 114, 123, 129, 184, 259, 303 - - Myitkyina, 10, 242, 249, 250, 305, 306 - - Myotha, 132-133 - - Myothugyis, 153 - - - Namkham, 177, 298 - - Ngapi, 38, 62 - - Ngathaing-gyaung, 261, 264 - - Nicholson, Lord, 138 - - Ningyan, 156 - - 'Nmaikha, 248-249 - - Norie, Colonel E. W. M., 272 - - Norman, Brigadier-General, 105 - - 'Nsentaru, 249 - - Nuns, Buddhist, 192 - - Nyaung-ôk Mintha, 30, 148 - - Nyaung-yan Mintha, 30, 31, 148 - - Nyaungywe, 231 _et seq._ - - - O, Maung Shwe, 39 - - O, Min, 163 - - O'Donnell, Brigadier-General H., 213 - - Oil-fields, 303-304 - - Ôktama, 161 - - Ôn Saw, 233 - - Opium, 55 - - - Pacification of Burma, the, 161, 202 _n._, 213 _n._, 219, 333 _n._ - - Pagan, 106, 123, 141, 287, 302, 303 - - Pagan Min, 27, 147 - - Pagan Min, widow of, 147 - - Pagoda, Shwe Dagôn, 11, 194, 197, 200 - - Pakan Sadaw, 189 - - Pakangyi Supaya, 149, 174 - - Pakôkku, 114, 300 - - Palace at Mandalay, 117 _et seq._, 284 - - Pantanaw, 36 _et seq._, 260 - - Parents, respect for, 162 - - Patriarchal justice, 124 - - Pe, Maung, 25 - - Pegu, 258, 297 - - Pegu Division, 235 - - Peile, Colonel S. C. F., 296 - - Pennell, Mr. C. S., 306 - - Phayre, Sir A., 9, 28, 86, 92, 154, 204, 260 _n._ - - Phayre, Mr. R., 106, 123, 162 - - Pilcher, Mr. R. H., 7, 86, 87, 134, 135, 162, 176 - - Pinlebu, 218, 252 - - Pintha Mintha, 125, 126, 148 - - Po, Maung, 82 - - Police, 5, 78, 158, 296 - military, 159 - - Pônkan, 170, 252 - - Pônnas, 146, 163 - - Prendergast, Sir H. N. D., 105, 106, 115, 118, 122, 143 - - Pretyman, Sir G., 88 - - Primrose, Sir H., 88 - - Prome, 10, 114, 189 - - Prothero, General M., 159 - - Provincial Settlement, 289, 291 - - Pwè, 45, 278 - - Pyi, Maung, 140 - - Pyin, Bo, 216 - - Pyinmana, 156, 259 - - Pyinmana Mintha, 125, 148 - - Pyintha, 177, 254 - - Pyinulwin, 177, 178 - - Pyo, Maung Tet, 81 - - Pyuntazá, 222 - - - Queen Sinbyumashin, 29 - - Queen Supayalat, 29, 103, 107, 108, 109, 110, 115 - - - Rae, Mr. D. W., 272 - - Raikes, Colonel F. D., 221 - - Railway, Mandalay-Toungoo, 167, 224 - Mu Valley, 239 - Southern Shan States, 230 - - Railways, 10 - - Rainey-Robinson, Colonel R. M., 129, 133 - - Rangoon, 11 _et seq._ and _passim_ - past and present, 18-23 - - Ratnagiri, 109 - - Rawlings, Mr. A. E., 100 - - Rebellions, 270 - - Redman, Captain, 113 - - Regan, Mr., 54, 144 - - Ribbentrop, Mr. B., 6 - - Rice, Mr. W. F., 306 - - Richard, Mr. H. J., 202 - - Ripon, Marquis of, 52, 88, 93 - - Roberts, Earl, 87, 88, 138, 139, 159, 169, 173 - - Ronak Begam, 209, 210 - - Ross, Mr. D., 221 - - Ruby Mines, 203 _et seq._, 252 - - Rundall, Colonel F. M., 221 - - - Sadôn, 246, 248 - - Sagadaung, 203 - - Sagaing, 67, 106, 130, 135, 239 - - Saing, Kun, 170 _et seq._ - - St. Barbe, Mr. H. L., 141 - - Salween, 227, 232 - - Sandford, Mr. J. D., 5 - - Sandoway, 221, 299 - - Sayedawgyi, 145 - - Scott, Sir J. G., 59, 158, 165, 176, 179, 226, 227, 267, 268, 277 - - Scott, Mr. W., 305 - - Scott-Moncrieff, Sir C., 52 - - Sè, Hein, 179 - - Shah Zamani Begam, 209 - - Shan States, 170, 225 _et seq._, 275, 278 - - Shans at home, the, 230 _n._ - - Shaw, Sir G. W., 240 - - Shaw, Mr. R. B., 30 - - Shearme, Mr. D., 306 - - Shiko, 186 _n._ - - Short, Mr. J., 14 - - Shwe Dagôn Pagoda, 11, 194, 197, 200 - - Shwebo, 2, 123, 216, 217, 240 - - Shwegu, 215 - - Shwehlan Myowun, 123, 165, 266 - - Shwelaung, 39 - - Si, Myowun U Pe, 123, 124, 143, 152 - - Silver-work, 65 - - Sima, 241, 245, 271 - - Sinbaungwè, 77, 81 - - Sinbaungwè, Wun of, 79 - - Sinbo, 244, 251 - - Sinbyumashin, Queen, 29 - - Sinaing, 177 - - Sinlumgaba, 272, 276 - - Sittang River, 10 - - Sladen, Sir E. B., 106, 122, 123, 125, 128, 134, 143, 276, 304 - - Smeaton, Mr. D. M., 207, 208, 256 - - Snadden, Mr. W. G., 267 - - Snakes, 48, 301 - - Stedman, Sir E., 176, 178, 219, 226 - - Stedman, Fort, 231, 232, 234 - - Stevenson, Mr. R. C., 106, 203 - - Stirling, Mr. G. C. B., 299 - - Stone, Major W. R., 260 - - Street, Colonel C. W., 7, 92 - - Su, Chit, 232 - - Summers, Mr. E. W. B., 237 - - Supayalat, Queen, 29, 103, 107, 108, 109, 110, 115 - - Superstitions, 97 - - Swè, Bo, 161 - - Symes, Sir E. S., 51, 90, 92, 95, 114, 137, 207, 234, 235, 254 - - Symons, Sir W. P., 105, 221 - - Syriam, 304 - - - Tabet Myosa, 179 - - Taingda Mingyi, 29, 86, 103, 134 - - Tari, 56 - - Taungbaing, 176 - - Taung-gwin Mingyi, 162 - - Taung-gyi, 232 - - Taungya cultivation, 76 - - Tavoy, 221, 299 - - Tenancy Legislation, 296 - - T'Êngyüeh, 214, 244 - - Tha, Maung Shwe, 295 - - Thabeik-kyin, 206 - - Tharrawaddy, 222 - - Thathanabaing, the, 187, 189-191 - - Thaungthut, 301 - - Thayazein Mipaya, 150 - - Thayetmyo, 74 _et seq._ - - Thazi, 231 - - Thebaw Min, 29, 107, 108, 109, 118, 125, 126, 169 - - Theinni, 176, 225 - - Thetpau Mipaya, 150 - - Thibaw, Sawbwa of (1), 171 _et seq._ - - Thibaw, Sawbwa of (2), 175, 299 - - Thibaw, State of, 171, 299 - - Thompson, Sir A. R., 7 - - Thomson, Mr. A., 144, 147 - - Thônzè, 173, 176, 178, 180 - - Ti, Bo, 212 - - Tibet, 242, 245, 275 - - Tiger stories, 15, 301, 302 - - Tin, Maung, 145 - - Titcomb, Dr. J. H., 34 - - To, Bo, 224 - - Todd-Naylor, Mr. H. P., 158, 222 - - Tôk, Maung, 30, 126 - - Tônbo, 176, 254 - - Toungoo, 10, 88, 167, 224 - - Tuck, Mr. H. N., 221 - - Tucker, Mr. A. H., 258 - - Tucker, Mr. H. St. G., 156 - - Tun, Maung, 216 - - Twomey, Mr. D. H. R., 218, 221 - - - U, Hla, 161 - - - Vaccination, 216 - - Victoria Point, 300 - - Village Law, 219 - - - Wakèma, 40 - - Wales, T.R.H. the Prince and Princess of, 181, 233, 287 - - Wales, H.R.H. Prince Albert Victor of, 224 - - Wallace, Sir D. M., 138 - - Warry, Mr. W., 272 - - White, Sir G. S., 105, 143, 159, 170, 182 - - Wilkinson, Mr. C. J., 5 - - Women, Burmese, 68 _et seq._ - - Wood carving, 65 - - Wuntho, 211, 217, 221, 239, 252 - - Yamèthin, 259 - - Yan, Shwe, 161 - - Yanaung Mintha, 30, 126 - - Yatsauk, 179 - - Yenangyaung, 304 - - Yenangyaung Mingyi (1), 126 - - Yenangyaung Mingyi (2), 124, 125, 126 - - Yunnan, 210, 214, 274 - - Yunnan-fu, 224 - - - Zan, Maung Aung, 25, 252, 294 - - Zibingale, 176-177 - - Zibingyi, 254 - - Zinath Mahal, Begam, 208-209 - - Zinaw, 248 - - - BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD. - - - - - Transcriber's notes: - - The following is a list of changes made to the original. - The first line is the original line, the second the corrected one. - - illustrious of pure Bhuddist shrines, dominating the - illustrious of pure Buddhist shrines, dominating the - - I spent in the office eleven years a period surpassed only, - I spent in the office eleven years, a period surpassed only, - - Two days earlier the King of Burmah issued a proclamation - Two days earlier the King of Burma issued a proclamation - - into Divisions, and Commissioners were appointed, In June, - into Divisions, and Commissioners were appointed. In June, - - he was noosed and tied up in the Keddah, and the - he was noosed and tied up in the Kheddah, and the - - At Sadagaung it was found that all the servants, - At Sagadaung it was found that all the servants, - - Their son and daughter, Mirza Jamshíd Bakht and Ronak Begam, - Their son and daughter, Mirza Jamshíd Bakht and Ronak Begam, - - In the morning the valleys were covered with a vale of mist; - In the morning the valleys were covered with a veil of mist; - - Some of these officers are Arakenese, one a Talaing; - Some of these officers are Arakanese, one a Talaing; - - the very able and distinguished Deputy Commmissioner of Myitkyina, - the very able and distinguished Deputy Commissioner of Myitkyina, - - _myo-ôk-gavaw_ = Myo-ôk's wife. - _m[)y]o-ôk-gavaw_ = M[)y]o-ôk's wife. - - _myo-thu-gyi_ = head of a _myo_ or circle. - _m[)y]o-thu-gyi_ = head of a _m[)y]o_ or circle. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Civil Servant in Burma, by Herbert Thirkel White - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA *** - -***** This file should be named 43075-8.txt or 43075-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/0/7/43075/ - -Produced by Jane Robins, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Civil Servant in Burma - -Author: Herbert Thirkel White - -Release Date: July 1, 2013 [EBook #43075] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA *** - - - - -Produced by Jane Robins, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43075 ***</div> <div class="transnote"> <p>Transcriber's Note:</p> @@ -12590,382 +12552,6 @@ the very able and distinguished Deputy <span class="u">Commissioner</span> of My <i><span class="u">my̆o</span>-thu-gyi</i> = head of a <i><span class="u">my̆o</span></i> or circle.</p> </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Civil Servant in Burma, by Herbert Thirkel White - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA *** - -***** This file should be named 43075-h.htm or 43075-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/0/7/43075/ - -Produced by Jane Robins, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Civil Servant in Burma - -Author: Herbert Thirkel White - -Release Date: July 1, 2013 [EBook #43075] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA *** - - - - -Produced by Jane Robins, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - Transcriber's Note: - - Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as - possible, including some inconsistent hyphenation and accents. The - erratum noted after the list of illustrations has been fixed. Some - other changes have been made. They are listed at the end of the - text. - - The sentence concerning the penalty for wrongly dividing a word at - the end of a line has been separated from the surrounding paragraph - to prevent re-wrapping. - - The sequence "[)y]" is y-combining-breve. - - Italic text has been marked with _underscores_. - - - - -A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA - - - - -[Illustration: BUDDHA'S FOOT.] - - - - - A CIVIL SERVANT - IN BURMA - - BY - SIR HERBERT THIRKELL WHITE, K.C.I.E. - - WITH ILLUSTRATIONS - - LONDON - EDWARD ARNOLD - 1913 - (_All rights reserved_) - - - - - TO - MY WIFE - WHO SHARED - MY LIFE IN BURMA - FOR MORE THAN THIRTY-TWO YEARS - - - - -PREFACE - - -This is not a guide-book, or a history, or a study of manners and -customs. It is a plain story of official life for more than thirty -years. It does not compete with any of the books already written about -Burma, except, perhaps, the monumental work of General Fytche. While -pursuing as a rule a track of chronological order, I have not hesitated -to wander into by-paths of dissertation and description. I could not -write without attempting to give fragmentary impressions of the people -and their character. As far as possible I have limited my narrative -to events within my own knowledge; my judgments are based on my own -observation. - -I have to express my acknowledgments to the friends who have given me -photographs to illustrate the book. My special thanks are due to Mr. -A. Leeds, I.C.S. (retired), for a large number of characteristic and -charming pictures. - - H. T. W. - -_September, 1913._ - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. INTRODUCTORY: A RETROSPECT AND SOME COMPARISONS 1 - - II. EARLY YEARS AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS 16 - - III. THE FIRST SUBDIVISION: THE SECRETARIAT 36 - - IV. SOME ASPECTS OF BURMESE LIFE AND CHARACTER 55 - - V. ON THE FRONTIER 73 - - VI. THE SECRETARIAT: THE LAST SUBDIVISION 90 - - VII. THE TAKING OF MANDALAY 99 - - VIII. EARLY DAYS AT MANDALAY 114 - - IX. LORD DUFFERIN'S VISIT--MANDALAY ONCE MORE 137 - - X. THE FIRST YEAR AFTER THE ANNEXATION 154 - - XI. A FEW WORDS ON BUDDHISM 183 - - XII. UNDER SIR CHARLES CROSTHWAITE, 1887-1890 201 - - XIII. A VISIT TO THE SHAN STATES 225 - - XIV. RANGOON--MANDALAY 235 - - XV. LOWER BURMA ONCE MORE 256 - - XVI. MANDALAY: THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION 266 - - XVII. THE CHIEF COURT--LAST YEARS IN BURMA 285 - - GLOSSARY 307 - - INDEX 309 - - - - -NOTE - - -Burmese words are spelt according to the Government system of -transliteration. Consonants have the same power as in English. _Y_ -after _g_ combines to form a sound approximating to _j_: _gyi_ = "jee"; -after every other consonant it is short--_m[)y]o_. _Yw_ is pronounced -"yu." Vowels and diphthongs have the sounds given below: - - _a_ = _a_ in "Ma." - _e_ = _a_ in "bane." - _e_ = _e_ in French "pere," without any sound of _r_ following. - _i_ = _ee_ in "feet." - _o_ or _o_ = _o_ in "bone." - _u_ = _oo_ in "fool." - _au_ = _ow_ in "cow." - _ai_ = _i_ in "line." - _ei_ = _ei_ in "vein." - _aw_ = _aw_ in "law." - -Every letter, except _y_ after _g_, is sounded separately, including -final vowels. Thus, _lu-gale_ is pronounced "loo-ga-lay." These -instructions are crude and unscientific, and may excite the derision of -purists. They will enable anyone to pronounce Burmese words with some -approach to correctness. In the case of Shan names I have as a rule -adopted the Burmese forms rather than the Shan forms in official use, -which no one who does not know the language can pretend to pronounce -properly. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - BUDDHA'S FOOT (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - BURMESE HOUSES (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 48 - - CHIN-LON (_Photograph by E. G. N. Kinch_) 58 - - THE POTTER (_Photograph by E. G. N. Kinch_) 64 - - THE M[)Y]O-OK-GADAW (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 64 - - SNAKE PAGODA (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 70 - - BURMESE GIRL WORSHIPPING (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 70 - - WHEN THE FLOODS ARE OUT (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 84 - - THE CITY WALL, MANDALAY (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 120 - - ROW OF BUDDHAS (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 128 - - RELEASING TURTLE (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 128 - - A BURMESE FAMILY (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 162 - - THE SAWBWA OF THIBAW (_Photograph by London - Stereoscopic Company_) 174 - - MONASTERY WITH CARVING (_Photograph by A. Leeds_) 184 - - THE THATHA-NA-BAING (_Photograph by Watts and Skeen, Rangoon_) 190 - - A MONASTERY (_Photograph by E. G. N. Kinch_) 200 - - PAGODA AT MONE (_Photograph by Sir J. G. Scott, K.C.I.E._) 226 - - THE PAUNGDAWU FESTIVAL (_Photograph by Sir J. G. Scott, - K.C.I.E._) 232 - - BO CHO AND HIS SONS 260 - - - - -ERRATUM. - - -Page 12, footnote *, _for_ "Admiral," _read_ "General," and _delete_ -"naval." - - - - -A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA - - - - -CHAPTER I - -INTRODUCTORY: A RETROSPECT AND SOME COMPARISONS - - -Burma is a Province of the Indian Empire. It is not, as some suppose, -a Crown Colony administered directly under the Colonial Office. Nor -is it, as others do vainly talk, a foreign State where Britain is -represented by Consuls. It is the largest, yet the least populous, -of Indian Provinces, more extensive even than undivided Bengal. The -estimated area is over two hundred and thirty thousand square miles, -larger than either France or Germany. According to the last census -(1911), the population is about twelve millions. On the west, its -seaboard washed by the Bay of Bengal, Burma marches with Bengal, Assam, -and Manipur; on the east, with China, French Indo-China, and Siam. To -the north, it stretches, through tracts unadministered and unexplored, -to the confines of Tibet. The mass of the people are Burmans, a Mongol -race akin to Chinese and Siamese. Other races in Burma are Talaings, -scattered over the Irrawaddy Delta and the Tenasserim division; -Shans, who occupy the great plateau on the east and are also found -in the northern districts; Karens, whose home is Karenni, but who are -widely spread over Lower Burma; Kachins, people of the hills on the -north-east; and Chins, of many clans, inhabiting the hill-country on -the north-west border. - -From the middle of the eighteenth century Burma was ruled by the -dynasty of Alaungpaya, corruptly called Alompra. Alaungpaya seems to -have been a Dacoit chief who began his career at Shwebo,[1] and made -himself master of the whole country. In his time the Burmese were a -warlike people, withstanding the might of China, and carrying their -victorious standards into Siam. Ten Princes[2] of his House ruled over -the whole, or part, of his kingdom. In 1826, after the First Burmese -War, the Provinces of Tenasserim and Arakan were annexed by the East -India Company, the central block from the sea to Tibet remaining under -the Burmese King. In 1852 the Province of Pegu was conquered. In 1862 -Pegu, Tenasserim, and Arakan were combined to form the Province of -British Burma, and placed in charge of a Chief Commissioner directly -responsible to the Government of India. In 1885 occurred the Third -Burmese War. Early in 1886, Upper Burma, all that remained under -native rule, was incorporated in the British Empire. Burma continued -to be administered by a Chief Commissioner till 1897, when the first -Lieutenant-Governor was appointed. - -These elementary facts are recorded for the benefit of any who may be -thankful for geographical and historical information about distant -dependencies of the Crown. We all know the story of Cape Breton. Most -of us have met people who think that our connection with Burma began -in 1885; that Burma regiments are manned by Burman sepoys; that, to -cite an alien instance, Bengalis serve in the Indian Army. Even what -was long regarded as the mythical confusion of Burma with Bermuda was -seriously printed in a London weekly last year, and all the newspapers -told how an officer who entered the Army in 1886 served in the _Second_ -Burmese War. Errors like these justify the platitudes of the preceding -paragraphs. - -When I first became acquainted with Burma, the system of administration -was comparatively simple. The Province consisted of three divisions, -each under a Commissioner. Subordinate to the Commissioner were -Deputy Commissioners, each in charge of a district. Under the -Deputy-Commissioner were subdivisional and township officers, in -charge respectively of subdivisions and townships. These jurisdictions -still remain. In those distant days townships were further divided -into circles, the territorial unit of administration, constituted -primarily for revenue purposes. Each circle was in charge of a Taik -Thugyi,[3] a native official of position and dignity and often of -considerable wealth. The Taik Thugyi collected capitation tax and -land and fishery revenue, the main sources of the Provincial income, -and received a substantial commission on the returns. Except as a -tax-collector, he had no statutory powers. But he was the chief man in -his circle, and, if of strong character, exercised great influence. -Every village had its headman, called the Kye-dan-gyi,[4] with onerous -duties and incommensurate powers and emoluments. In recent years -circle and village organization has been reformed. Taik Thugyis have -been abolished or are in course of abolition. The village is now -the administrative unit. The Ywa Thugyi[5] is the local judge and -magistrate, with extensive powers and a respectable position. - -Except of purely Imperial offices, such as Post and Telegraphs, the -Commissioner was the head of all Departments in the division. As -Sessions Judge he was also the chief judicial officer. In like manner -the Deputy Commissioner controlled every branch of the administration -in his district. The bulk of petty revenue, criminal, and civil work -was done by Assistant Commissioners, Extra Assistant Commissioners,[6] -and M[)y]o-oks,[7] in charge of subdivisions and townships. Most of the -Extra Assistants and all the M[)y]o-oks were natives of Burma. I think it -is true that early in 1878 no Burmese officer exercised higher powers -than those of a third-class magistrate, and not one was in charge of a -subdivision. - -The judicial administration was controlled by a Judicial Commissioner, -who was the High Court for the whole country except Rangoon, and who -was always deputed from another Province. When I joined, the late Mr. -J. D. Sandford was Judicial Commissioner. In Rangoon the reins of -justice were in the strong hands of the Recorder (the late Mr. C. J. -Wilkinson). The Judicial Commissioner and the Recorder sat together in -a quaint tribunal called the Special Court, which heard appeals from -the decisions of each of its members. When the Judges of the Special -Court failed to agree, a difficult position occurred. The High Court at -Calcutta exercised anomalous jurisdiction in certain cases. Except the -Judicial Commissioner, the Recorder, the Judge of Moulmein, and a Small -Cause Court Judge or two, there were no officers occupied exclusively -with judicial work. All exercised judicial and executive functions. -Divisional, Sessions, District, Subdivisional, and Township Judges, who -now flourish in luxuriant abundance, were not even in the bud. - -The rank and file of the police were mostly Burmans, with some -admixture of Indians not of a very good class. The superior officers, -District and Assistant Superintendents, were men of experience, well -acquainted with the people. A few military officers still remained -in the civil police, Major T. Lowndes[8] being Inspector-General. -Perhaps the best-known of the British officers were Messrs. Perreau, -Fforde, Jameson, and Dixon, and Major C. A. Munro. The Burmese -officers--inspectors and head constables--were all men who had risen -from the ranks. Every one of them had to enlist as a constable and work -his way upward. The system was not without merit, and was well suited -to the idiosyncrasy of the Burmese race. One distinguished Talaing -officer held the rank of Superintendent of Police, though without a -district charge. This was Maung Shwe Kyi, who was a King on the Siamese -border at Kawkareik. One of the bravest and most resolute of men, his -good service was recognized by his inclusion in the first list of -Companions of the Order of the Indian Empire. His son carries on the -tradition of his family. - -The Forest Department was in its early lusty youth vigorously directed -by a single Conservator, Mr. B. Ribbentrop,[9] assisted by a small -but very able staff. Burmese teak had long been a staple product of -great value; its care and development were the main duties of forest -officers. The forest law was, and still remains, complex, logical, -meticulous. I venture the humble suggestion that its exceeding -obscurity may be due to the nationality of the pioneers of forest -administration in India. We were taught forestry by Germans of great -ability and high scientific attainments, who framed the statutes of -their department as if they were metaphysical treatises. They created -a great and efficient branch of the administration. But they enveloped -its principles in a mist which baffles the ordinary lay intelligence, -and can be pierced only by the philosophic mind, made, or at least -trained, in Germany. - -Supreme over all was the Chief Commissioner (then Mr. Rivers -Thompson[10]), assisted by a small but capable secretariat, which -worked for long hours in a small office on the Strand Road in Rangoon. -The Secretary, Major C. W. Street, was a military civilian of character -and ability. The Junior Secretary was Mr. R. H. Pilcher, C.S., who -had been Assistant Resident in Mandalay, and was most learned in -the Burmese and Shan tongues. My old friend, Mr. G. C. Kynoch, was -Assistant Secretary. None of these survives. - -The higher officers entrusted with the general administration, as -distinct from special branches, constituted the Commission. In the -Commission were included the Chief Commissioner, Judicial Commissioner, -Commissioners, Deputy Commissioners, and Assistant Commissioners. It -was composed of Indian civilians, officers of the Indian Staff Corps, -and uncovenanted[11] officers. Civilians were few in number. Burma -was not considered of sufficient importance to have men assigned to -it after the open competitions. Men were sent thither for their sins, -either permanently or for a term of years. A Chief Commissioner's wife -is said to have told one of these young men that other Provinces sent -their worst men to Burma. However this may be, no doubt Burma was -regarded as a place of banishment, a dismal rice-swamp (or, as was -once said, a howling paddy[12]-plain), where the sun never shone. I -remember, while still in London, the commiseration expressed with one -of our seniors whose deportation to this dreary land was announced. -All this was fiction, falser than the Roman's conception of Britain. -I found Burma a bright and pleasant land, green and forest-clad, with -a climate healthier on the whole than the average climate of Indian -plains; its people singularly human, cheerful, and sympathetic; its -officers of all ranks companionable and friendly. My own considered -opinion is that, in many respects, Burma was one of the best provinces -for a public servant. It is true that, at first, with only British -or Lower Burma open to us, with but little variety of climate, we -were rather cribbed and confined. The rains, lasting from May to -October, began to pall about the middle of August. Fungus growth on -boots was displeasing. The Province was (it still is) expensive, and -promotion was slow. It took Sir Harvey Adamson and myself, who were -contemporaries, over seven years to get a step of substantive rank. -But there were compensations in the lightness of the work (except in -the Secretariat), in the charm and attractiveness of the people, in -the excellent good-fellowship of our brother-officers, in the hope -that before long we should be in Mandalay, and that united Burma would -give ample scope and opportunity. Burmese cheroots, too, cost only -eightpence a hundred. - -Among the military civilians were men of conspicuous ability, trained -in the school of Sir Arthur Phayre, whose name is still reverenced -throughout Burma, and who stands in the first class of Indian statesmen -and administrators. Many of them had taken an active part in the -pacification of Pegu after the Second War, and were thoroughly familiar -with the Province and its people, their language and customs. I yield -to none in high appreciation of the men of my own Service. They have -done as good work in Burma, and have got as near to the people, as -any men in India. But military civilians also have maintained to this -day an honourable record, and have furnished to the Commission many -valuable officers. I was just too late to know Colonel David Brown -(Brown-gyi[13]), whose memory still lives in the Province. Colonel -Horace Browne,[14] Colonel A. G. Duff, Captain C. H. E. Adamson,[15] -Colonel W. C. Plant, are among the notable soldier-civilians of my -early service. Other officers, afterwards well-known, were Mr. de -Courcy Ireland, the first officer of his Service in India to become a -commissioner; Mr. A. H. Hildebrand,[16] the first Superintendent of the -Shan States; and Johnny Davis, of Papun, whose knowledge of Burma and -the Burmese was unique. When I joined, all the divisions were in charge -of military officers, and with one or two exceptions, military and -uncovenanted officers ruled every district. - -In 1878 there was one line of railway, 160 miles in length, from -Rangoon to Prome on the Irrawaddy. To and from Toungoo, a station on -the Burmese frontier, the journey had to be made by way of the Sittang -River, and occupied about a fortnight. Once upon a time, a man started -from Toungoo with a friend. They travelled in separate boats, in one of -which was stored all the provisions for the voyage. The commissariat -boat started first, and my man never saw his friend again till he -reached Rangoon. For a fortnight he had to subsist on such scanty fare -as he could pick up on the river-bank. When I saw him soon afterwards, -he was perceptibly thinner and still full of wrath. Toungoo is now on -the Mandalay line, and is reached in a few hours. There are 1,529 miles -of railways in Burma; lines to Mandalay, to Myit-kyi-na in the extreme -north, to Alon on the Chindwin, to Moulmein, one of our ports, to -Lashio in the Northern Shan States, in mid-air on the way to China, to -Bassein and Henzada in the Delta. The sea-borne trade has made immense -progress. In 1878 it was valued at L15,684,920; in 1911 at nearly -L43,000,000. - -The garrison consisted of two battalions of British infantry, one of -which gave a detachment to the Andamans, five Madras regiments, and -five batteries of artillery. Troops were stationed at Rangoon, on the -frontier at Toungoo and Thayet-myo, and at Moulmein. There were no -troops in Arakan. There were no military police. The Province was in a -state of profound peace, though there were occasional dacoities on the -borders, and, as always, Tharrawaddy had a bad name. - -Of Rangoon in those early days, separate mention may be made. One -glory it had which still abides. The Shwe Dagon Pagoda, most sacred -and most illustrious of pure Buddhist shrines, dominating the -landscape, rose golden to the sky. From far the traveller approaching -Rangoon from the sea caught sight of that amazing shaft of gold, and -instinctively did reverence. In the bright winter sunshine, in the blue -haze of summer heat, in the veiled mysteries of tropic moonlight, it -towered awe-inspiring, stupendous, divine. On feast days and sabbaths -the platform was thronged with worshippers, surely the brightest, -best-humoured, most laughter-loving of all pious crowds. Even now one -can imagine no scene more gracious, more mystically serene and lovely, -than the pagoda in the light of the full moon, when all that is tawdry -and unseemly is charmed away. But thirty years ago, before the platform -was covered with modern shrines not all in harmony with aesthetic -canons, it was still more gravely and austerely beautiful. - -In recent years the erection of new buildings on the pagoda platform, -already overcrowded, has been forbidden. This probably is wise and -right. Being in the centre of a fort, with an arsenal in close -proximity, the pagoda is in military custody. The presence of the -arsenal is a menace to the safety of this famous shrine. A serious -explosion would shatter the fabric and irreparably destroy one of the -wonders of the world. The pagoda would be the natural place of refuge -in time of serious disturbance. For this reason, among others, the -continuance of military control is essential. But the removal of the -arsenal to a distance is an urgent necessity. - -After its occupation in 1852, Rangoon was carefully laid out on a -systematic plan, with straight streets of varying width. The broadest -road, edged with shady trees, ran from Soolay Pagoda up to the -cantonment, as fine a thoroughfare as could be seen in East or West. -In the early fifties some far-seeing benefactor planted along Godwin -Road[17] a glorious avenue of padauk, and earned the blessings of men -later born. Three times, at the approach of the rains, these stately -trees burst forth for a day in petals as beautiful and as fleeting -as fairy gold. Then one drives under a canopy of gold, over a golden -carpet of fallen flowers, amidst a crowd each bearing a golden blossom. -To see this lovely sight you must live in Burma. It comes too late in -the season for the casual visitor. - -The main lines of the plan of Rangoon have been preserved, and are as -at first designed. But the past thirty years have seen many changes. -In 1878, though there were many strangers within its borders, Rangoon -was still a Burmese town. Now it is the third port in the Indian -Empire,[18] a vast city of over a quarter of a million of people, -speaking a pentecostal variety of tongues, among whom Burmans are a -dwindling minority. Then the cantonment, no doubt of needlessly vast -extent, occupying a wide space on every side of the pagoda, was like a -picturesque park, studded with little wooden houses, each surrounded -by an ample shady garden. Halpin Road, by some sentimentalists called -the Ladies' Mile, with a humble but select gymkhana[19] at one end, -was restricted to the use of the military and civil community. Now the -gymkhana has been quadrupled in size, and far more than quadrupled in -membership. Jehus of all races and classes raise the dust of Halpin -Road in dogcarts, landaus, and motor-cars. A great modern hotel -occupies a large space; houses of a decadent type, planted as close -together as suburban villas, have devastated the pretty cantonment; -natives of wealth and position live on sites once reserved for the -sovereign race. Doubtless all these are signs of progress. But they -shock the aesthetic sense. The Pegu Club was housed in Cheape Road, -in a wooden building not long ago dismantled. On the Royal Lake a -few boats afforded exercise and pastime. If your boat upset, you -were fined for illegal bathing; and if you scrambled back into your -boat, you were fined for embarking elsewhere than at the prescribed -jetty. Dalhousie Park, it may be gratefully admitted, has been much -improved, mainly by the devoted attention of the late Mr. John Short. -It is now beyond imagination the home of the picturesque, its lovely -lawns and winding paths fringing the lake, with the pagoda shining -in the middle distance. Except a few public offices, there were no -buildings of importance. Government House was of wood, with a small -masonry annexe, near the present imposing and luxurious, but hardly -beautiful structure. A neighbouring house was used as a guest-house, -to accommodate the overflow of visitors, till some years later it was -sold by a frugal Chief. The General Hospital, of wood saturated with -generations of microbes, was then, and for long after, a disgrace to -civilization. It has now been replaced by a magnificent pile, the -best-equipped hospital in the East, one of the best-equipped in the -world. The race-course, round the parade ground, was about two-thirds -of its present size. The little race-meetings twice a year, where one -knew all the ponies and riders, when lotteries were of small value -and attended by one's friends and acquaintances, when bookmakers -were unknown, and we did our mild gambling at the totalizator, were -more enjoyable and more truly sporting than the present-day monthly -meetings, where more than half the owners are Chinamen or Indians, -and almost all the riders professional jockeys. In wealth, in luxury, -in comfort, Rangoon has made great advances in the last thirty years. -Yet I doubt if it is quite as pleasant a place of abode as it was a -generation ago. - -The outskirts of Rangoon were rustic or, as we say, jungly. About this -time a tiger swam across the river from Dalla, then a mere village, -and was shot by Mr. G. G. Collins, an Inspector of Police,[20] under -a house in Godwin Road. Within the last ten years a similar incident -occurred. One morning an old woman, selling cheroots on the pagoda -platform, half asleep or half blind, opened her eyes, and saw in the -dim dawn moving near her stall what she took to be a large cat. She -waved it away, and it went off. It was a tiger which had strolled up -the grassy slope of the Pagoda Hill. The pagoda was being regilt, and -was encased in lattice-work. The tiger climbed half-way up the trellis -and there stopped, till, after some ineffectual attempts, it was shot -by an officer of the garrison. This strange event has an explanation. A -nat[21] came riding on the tiger to inspect the gilding of the pagoda. -He rode half-way up and then dismounted, pursuing his journey on foot. -On his return, he was much surprised and displeased to find that his -steed had been killed. Some say that he was unable to resume his -journey, and is still there. This story was current in Rangoon on the -evening of the occurrence. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -EARLY YEARS AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS - - -My personal acquaintance with Burma dates from January, 1878. I came -to India as a Bengal civilian, attached to the Upper Provinces, liable -to serve in the North-West Provinces, the Punjab and Oudh. It was -doubtless for that reason and because I had shown some aptitude for the -study of Persian that the Government of India were pleased to post me -to the Central Provinces, and then, before I had even joined at Nagpur, -to order me to Burma. As in those days our covenants did not bind us to -serve elsewhere than in the Province of our choice, I think it likely -that, after a term in Burma, I might have obtained a transfer to the -North-West Provinces. However, I went to Burma and stayed there; and so -far as my official career is concerned, I do not suppose I should have -done as well in any other part of India. Certainly I should not have -had elsewhere so interesting a life, or found so congenial a people. - -On our arrival in Rangoon, my wife and I were hospitably received by -two residents, Mr. E. C. Morrieson, a man of my own year, and Mr. C. -F. Egerton Allen, then Government Advocate, afterwards acting Recorder -of Rangoon, and still later in the House as member for Pembroke -Boroughs. Their kindness was in accordance with the traditions of the -country, which, I am glad to say, are still maintained. A comparatively -new Province, in some respects it may be a little behind the times, -Burma has always cherished the primitive virtues, conspicuously that -of hospitality. Perhaps to some extent this is ascribable to the -influence of the _genius loci_. For in the world there are no kinder or -more hospitable people than the Burmese. The generous manner in which -strangers are received may be one reason why hotels in Burma have, if -possible, a worse repute than those of India.[22] - -Our first station was Bassein, one of the four ports of Burma, situated -on a fair river some sixty miles from the sea, in the midst of the -Delta of the Irrawaddy. It was then the headquarters of a district. -Not very long afterwards it became the headquarters of the Irrawaddy -division, carved out of the overworked division of Pegu. In those days -the only approach to Bassein was by river steamer. Even now, though -Bassein is linked with Rangoon by rail, the river journey is easier -and pleasanter. Our little vessel steamed now on the broad flood of -the main river, now through narrow winding channels, called locally -"creeks," which intersect the delta in countless profusion. Though -searchlights in the bows were then unknown, we ran on, by day and -night, between densely wooded banks. Now and again the passage was -so narrow that branches of trees crashed through our cabin window. -Here and there, on the mud of a bank left bare by the tide, we saw -crocodiles and bands of chattering monkeys. Except at the large -villages, where we halted to take up and set down passengers and cargo, -the solitude was perfect save for a few huts on the riverside, a casual -fisherman in his dugout, a boat full of men and women going to market, -or of monks (pongyis) in their yellow robes. The hideous sampan and the -still more horrible lighter or barge had not yet invaded these sacred -recesses. Such larger craft as passed us were the stately Burmese -boats, built on graceful lines, propelled by sail and oar, with high -carved sterns on which the helmsman sat aloft. Such people as we saw -were all Burmans or Karens. The kala[23] was as rare as a black swan. - -My Deputy Commissioner was Mr. G. D. Burgess,[24] one of the first -civilians deputed to Burma, of the same year as the late Sir Denzil -Ibbetson, of lamented memory. Mr. C. U. Aitchison,[25] who succeeded -Mr. Rivers Thompson as Chief Commissioner early in 1878, visited -Bassein this year in the course of a tour in the old Government -steamer, the _Irrawaddy_. Recognizing Mr. Burgess's rare ability, he -called him to Rangoon soon afterwards to act as secretary in place -of Major Street, who went on leave. This was exceptional promotion -for a man of about eight years' service. Mr. Burgess was a man of -great capacity, of untiring industry, of immense power of work, of -exceptional mastery of detail, of singularly sane judgment, one whose -opinion, as Mr. Aitchison said, was always worthy of consideration. For -several years he worked in the secretariat, afterwards did excellent -service as Commissioner at Mandalay and elsewhere, and in due course -became Judicial Commissioner of Upper Burma. In that high office he -had full scope for his industry and sound judgment. His rulings, -especially on points of Buddhist law, illuminated many dark places, and -are still cited with respect. Mr. Burgess's health was undermined by -excessive work in the secretariat. In 1898 he had to take leave, and, -by a melancholy accident, died at sea on his way home. He was one of -the ablest officers who ever served in Burma, and, if his health had -not failed, must have risen to the highest posts. If he had a fault -officially, it was a tendency to interfere too much in detail and to do -the work of his subordinates. No doubt, as Mr. Aitchison used to say, -and as others have often said, the great administrator is he who does -his own duty and sees that those under him do theirs. But the defect I -have ventured to note is the defect of a generous quality. - -In those days the education of junior civilians was left to take care -of itself. There was no Land Records Department and there were no -elaborate circulars prescribing a course of training. What sort of -training a junior officer enjoyed, or whether he had any training at -all, depended entirely on the quality of his first Deputy Commissioner. -I need hardly say that I regard as preferable the present system, -under which every young officer is passed through a definite course -of practical instruction in all branches of his work. But even now -a great deal depends on the personality of the Deputy Commissioner. -It was my good fortune to begin my service under the guidance of an -excellent officer and a high-minded, great-hearted gentleman. Never -had green griffin a kindlier or abler mentor. And to the end of his -life Mr. Burgess treated me with the kindness of an elder brother. I -was placed in charge of the Treasury; given Third Class magisterial -powers, that is, power to imprison for one month, fine up to fifty -rupees, and, such was the barbaric darkness of that age, to whip; and -set to try petty criminal cases, learn Burmese, and prepare for the -departmental examinations. I confess that I had a charmingly idle time. -In those happy days life was not in the least strenuous. The busiest -time was when the head accountant went sick for about a month, and I -had to do his work as well as my own. In this way I did thoroughly -learn the Treasury system, even if I forgot it afterwards. The zeal -of youth betrayed me into a somewhat serious blunder, whereby I -incurred the formal censure of Government. This, though recorded, was -never officially communicated to me, and does not seem to have done -me any harm. I cannot call to mind anything amusing or interesting -in the court or office work. If there are tales, others must tell -them. It was not in Bassein that a Third Class Magistrate sentenced a -cattle-thief to imprisonment for one week, the normal sentence then, -and, I hope, now being one of two years' hard labour. Called upon for -justification, he gravely explained that he had to observe some measure -in his sentences. If he gave a man a whole month for cattle-theft, what -sentence could he pass if he convicted a man of murder? Nor was it here -that a young magistrate fined a woman Rs. 10, or in default rigorous -imprisonment for two years. It was elsewhere that an officer fined his -own servant judicially for "spoiling the Court's soup" by using an oily -cloth to wipe the plates withal. These stories, current in Burma long -ago, are possibly all invented. Similarly mythical, I suspect, are -the legends of the young civilian who gratefully accepted advice not -to try a long shot, lest he should strain the gun; of another who on -the voyage out kept under his pillow a revolver wrapped in paper and -labelled "Dangerous"; of a third who was persuaded to rise at mess, -as the representative of Government, and forestall the President in -announcing the toast of "The Queen." But many years later, with my own -ears, I heard the health of Her Majesty proposed, "coupled with the -name of General ----," and the gallant General respond on behalf of his -Sovereign. - -Bassein was a charming station, with that mingling of non-official -and official society which doth ever add pleasure. The great rice -firms, Messrs. Bulloch Bros., Messrs. Strang Steel and Co., Messrs. -Mohr Bros., and others, had mills on either side of the river, and the -presence of their representatives helped to form a festive and sociable -community. We were all young and all cheerful. Though there was no -club, we managed to meet and enjoy life. Besides an inchoate attempt -at polo, then just coming into vogue, riding in the fields and jungle, -and playing lawn tennis, were the principal amusements. Golf had not -been introduced. I am afraid ladies had rather a quiet time, for dances -were of very rare occurrence. But bachelor frolics were many, and the -spectacled Deputy Commissioner who looked grave enough on the Bench was -leader in every frivolity. His Saturday night whist dinners were often -more hilarious than the occasion indicates. I refrain from recording -instances of light-hearted jests perpetrated from time to time, partly -because they were too trivial for immortality, partly lest the serious -reader think us more childish-foolish than we were. The survivors of -those joyous days will call to mind many a noisy revel. No harm was -done. Mr. Kipling would have found no copy for the mildest of plain -tales. - -There were reminders of historic times. One of the Public Works -officers was a veteran who had fought at Chillianwallah. Another -resident had learnt his work under Brunel. Less pleasing relics of -the past were a few old men branded on the forehead and sent into -transportation from India. Some, but not all, were mutineers. They were -not in confinement, but eked out a wretched existence on two or three -pence a day. - -I saw something of district life. More than once the Deputy Commissioner -took me on tour with him, and I had opportunities of learning methods of -sound administration. The Deputy Commissioner was the head of the -district, and, as already stated, controlled all except the purely -Imperial departments. Even over Forests, Public Works, and Education -he exercised paternal sway. He was explicitly declared to be the head -of the police. And he was the chief executive officer, with as much -influence as his personality secured. He cherished his own District -Fund, his pet child, and had a fair amount of money to spend on minor -works. Often he was his own road-maker. As District Magistrate, with -power to try all but capital offences and impose substantial penalties, -and as District Judge, with unlimited original civil jurisdiction and -wide appellate powers, he directed the judicial administration. - -He constantly travelled slowly through the district, and was personally -known to all the people. In most districts the volume of work was not -beyond the capacity of an able and energetic officer. We in Bassein -were fortunate in possessing the ablest Deputy Commissioner in the -Province, and the district flourished under his benign and firm -rule. It was an invaluable object-lesson to accompany Mr. Burgess -on tour and mark his procedure. Always accessible to the humblest -villager, yet strict in upholding the authority of his subordinates, -Myo-oks and Thugyis; halting here and there to investigate disputes -in revenue matters, to hear complaints, to try cases; treating the -local officials with kindness and consideration, while preserving his -place and dignity; inspecting village records; checking capitation tax -returns and land revenue rolls; visiting fields on which remission of -revenue was claimed; taking a day off now and then to shoot snipe; the -Deputy Commissioner's progress tended to the happiness of the people -and the peace of the countryside. I have no doubt that this was the -best system of administration ever devised or practised. The separation -of judicial and executive functions, the curtailment of the Deputy -Commissioner's powers, the attempt, happily so far not successful in -Burma, to diminish his authority over the police and his responsibility -for peace and order, are all steps backward; to vary the metaphor, -they are solvents which will gradually destroy the vitality of the -administration and weaken the foundations of good government laid -by our predecessors. I have no right to speak of other provinces of -India. In Burma there is a comparatively simple social organization. -With a strong feeling of personal independence and a full measure of -self-respect, the people looked up to the officials and recognized -that they were better off under authority than if they attempted to -govern themselves. Above all, they knew that in the last resort they -could rely on the justice and firmness of British officers. Under this -system the moral and material welfare of the peasant and trader was -promoted far more surely than by the introduction of Western methods -unsuited to the idiosyncrasy of the race. Nor does this proposition -preclude Burmans from obtaining by degrees an ever-increasing share in -the offices of the administration. As qualified men become available, -by all means let them undertake higher duties. But do not let us try -prematurely to impose representative institutions on people who neither -demand nor understand them. Above all, let us avoid the pernicious cant -of thinking that our mission in Burma is the political education of -the masses. Our mission is to conserve, not to destroy, their social -organism; to preserve the best elements of their national life; by the -maintenance of peace and order to advance the well-being of the Burmese -people. - -At Bassein, in town and district, I first saw Burmans at home, and -laid the foundations of many lasting friendships. My first two clerks -were Maung Pe,[26] and Maung Aung Zan. One has long been the respected -Second Judge of the Small Cause Court in Rangoon, the Aristides of -his race; the other is the first Burman District Judge. A well-known -character was U Bya, the Judge of the Bassein Small Cause Court, an -officer of age and dignity, who, it was said, had raised himself to -his honourable rank from the humble position of peon in the Treasury. -Although contact with foreigners had to some extent begun to affect -the Burmese character, it must be remembered that the time of which I -write was only twenty-five years after the taking of Rangoon, a shorter -period than has now elapsed since the occupation of Mandalay. Even -in Pegu the Burman was far less sophisticated than he has become in -recent years. The great rice-plains of the delta were not nearly all -under cultivation. The farmer worked his own moderate holding with the -help of his family and of reapers who came down annually from Upper -Burma. The inroad of coolies and settlers from Madras and Bengal not -yet begun. The delta was sparsely peopled, and everyone was happy and -contented. - -After leaving Bassein, I spent a few weeks in Rangoon as personal -assistant to the Chief Commissioner. The personal assistant combined -the posts of private secretary and aide-de-camp, without the -emoluments, and with only part of the work of those offices. Under -Mr. Aitchison's tolerant regime, the duties were extremely light, and -consisted mainly in ciphering and deciphering telegrams. By him and by -Mrs. (now Lady) Aitchison, we were treated with unvarying kindness. -The days spent as members of their official family are days of happy -memory. Mr. Aitchison was one of the first batch of competition walas, -and was rightly regarded as a distinguished ornament of our service. -At a very early stage in his career he became Foreign Secretary to the -Government of India. That high office he exchanged for the comparative -obscurity of Burma, only because he differed from the Viceroy (Lord -Lytton) on points of frontier policy. He was a man of exceptional -ability, of resolute character, with the most delicate sense of honour, -a chief whom it was a pride and pleasure to serve. The Governor-General -being his own Foreign Minister, Mr. Aitchison had been brought into -close personal relations with every Viceroy[27] who, up to that time, -had held office. In his judgment, among these statesmen, the man -of genius, the one who got most quickly to the root of a difficult -problem, was Lord Lytton. As the two men were by no means sympathetic, -this opinion is of special value. - -We came to Rangoon early in 1879, at a time of great excitement. The -preceding October had seen the death of Mindon Min, who ruled the -Burmese kingdom for more than five-and-twenty years. King Mindon, or -Min-taya-gyi Paya, was an enlightened monarch, worthy to be placed -in the same class, though not side by side, with Solomon and Akbar. -He wrested the throne from his incapable brother, Pagan Min, whose -headstrong folly had involved his country in the Second Burmese War. -With rare magnanimity, he neither slew nor blinded the deposed King, -but allowed him to live in peace in his own house for the rest of his -days. Indeed, Pagan Min survived his successor. Mindon Min was an -able administrator, and quite master of his kingdom. He held in his -own hands all the threads of government, and kept himself informed of -all that happened even in the remotest corners. Peace and order were -reasonably well maintained, and projects for developing the resources -of the country were initiated. The teak forests were opened out by -English firms. Many Europeans, principally French and Italian, were -attracted to his Court, and employed in various capacities. Among other -reforms may be mentioned the levy of regular taxation on land and -incomes, and the payment of salaries to officials. The practice had -been for an official to be placed in charge of a local area, which he -was expressively said to "eat." After paying his dues to Government, -he squeezed as much as possible for himself. In this reign, though the -custom was not abolished, its prevalence was restricted. The King was -a very pious Buddhist, a generous benefactor of the pagoda at Rangoon, -and a steadfast pillar of his religion. He discouraged the taking of -life, the use of opium, the consumption of intoxicating liquors. Like -Solomon in wisdom, he rivalled him in the number of his wives. Although -he declined to make a treaty ceding any part of his dominions to Great -Britain, he respected the frontier-line laid down by Lord Dalhousie, -he kept on good terms with our Government in Lower Burma, and he had -the good sense highly to appreciate Sir Arthur Phayre. So long as he -ruled in Mandalay, there was no likelihood of any expansion of British -territory at his cost. - -The death of Mindon Min threw the whole of Upper Burma into confusion. -By a palace intrigue, in which the principal actors were Queen -Sinbyumashin and the Taingda Mingyi,[28] the Thebaw Mintha,[29] was -placed on the throne. King Thebaw was about eighteen years of age. He -seems to have been a dull youth, of no character, good or bad. The -beginning of his rule was stained by the murder of most of the sons of -Mindon Min, a massacre as ruthless and almost as many-headed as the -slaughter of the sons of Ahab. Though the Princesses were not killed, -they were consigned to captivity. Of the massacre of the Princes, two -extreme views have been held. The young King has been represented -as a monster of cruelty, himself personally responsible for this -atrocity. The cynical suggestion is that, in Burma as in other Oriental -countries, it was a measure of ordinary precaution for the King to -remove possible rivals and pretenders; in so doing, Thebaw was no worse -than his predecessors. As a matter of fact, most likely neither the -King nor his much-maligned Queen had much to do with the massacre. It -was, no doubt, the work of his Ministers, chiefly of the blood-stained -Taingda Mingyi, a name to all succeeding ages cursed. But it is also -the case that this wholesale butchery, though not without precedent, -was not in accordance with the practice of Burman Kings, at least, in -recent years. Certainly no such deluge of blood sullied the opening -days of King Mindon. The probable explanation is that the title of -the new King was felt to be precarious, while his personality did not -compensate the insecurity of his claim. He was not the eldest, nor the -ablest, nor the most popular, of Mindon Min's sons. For these reasons, -I conjecture, some of the Ministers thought it desirable to remove -potential centres of revolt and disaffection. I cannot believe that my -learned and mild-tempered friend, the Kinwun Mingyi, though nominally -the head of the State Council, approved this savage measure. The -stories current at the time, of the King priming himself with drink, -and personally directing the slaughter, were certainly false. It is -true, however, that in the early days of his reign King Thebaw was much -under the influence of a titular Prince, Maung Tok,[30] and that these -two boon companions did hold drunken orgies together. After Maung Tok's -removal there is no record of intemperance in the Palace. - -The massacre of the sons of Mindon Min sent a thrill of horror through -the civilized world. Our Resident at Mandalay, Mr. R. B. Shaw, entered -vehement protests. He also sheltered two Princes, the Nyaung-yan and -Nyaung-ok Minthas, who were, I understand, brought to the Residency -by M. d'Avera, and whose lives were saved by their despatch to Lower -Burma and thence to Calcutta. In Rangoon the Press and public were -loud in condemnation, and clamorous for action. In the interests of -humanity and civilization the Indian Government were urgently pressed -to intervene. They nearly did so. Preparations for the despatch of -troops were begun. One regiment, the 43rd Light Infantry, actually came -over from Madras, in hot haste and with the barest camp kit, and was -sent to the frontier. All its officers expected to be in Mandalay in -a fortnight, and sore was the indignation of the British regiment in -Rangoon that these new-comers should go to the front while it remained -in cantonments. The Rangoon Regiment had its consolation. For all their -term in Burma the 43rd stayed on the frontier, and never put a foot -across it. The Government of India were fully occupied with troubles -in Afghanistan, which some few months later culminated in the murder -of Sir Louis Cavagnari at Cabul. At home, Ministers were staggered by -the disaster of Isandhlwana in February of this year. Both Governments -had their hands too full to find leisure for upholding the cause of -humanity in Upper Burma. It was a very near thing. Had there not been -pressing affairs elsewhere, we should doubtless have occupied Mandalay, -and almost certainly set up a protected King. The time was ripe for -intervention, but not for annexation. - -At Government House we were kept moderately busy by telegrams with -Mandalay and Calcutta. One fine morning the Nyaung-yan Prince appeared, -with the design of attempting (to speak proleptically) a Jameson raid -on Upper Burma. The secret history of this incident I may not tell. -Let it suffice to say that the Prince was sent back to Calcutta with -all speed in a Government ship. To soothe public feeling in Rangoon -a Press _communique_ was issued from the Secretariat, informing the -world that in respect of Upper Burma the attitude of the Government of -India was one of "repose and defence," a phrase which was received with -mingled surprise and derision. The explanation I may perhaps disclose -after many years. The telegram of the Government of India authorizing -the announcement was signalled, or at any rate transcribed by me, in -the words given to the Press. But what the Government of India wrote -was that their attitude was one of "reserve and defence." Curiously and -perhaps somewhat ingenuously the Rangoon Volunteer Rifles adopted, and -for many years retained, as their motto the words "Repose and Defence." -Of late they have become more energetic, and this motto has been -discarded as inappropriate. - -Government House maintained the hospitable traditions of the Province. -All the officers of the 43rd were entertained and housed during their -very brief stay in Rangoon, and, though tourists were fewer than in -later years, we had some visitors. Of these the most distinguished -was General Ulysses Grant, ex-President of the United States, who in -his voyage round the world touched at Rangoon. With him came Mrs. -Grant, their son Colonel Grant, a Cabinet Minister, a doctor, and a -man of letters. General Grant seemed to me to talk, in moderation, as -much as other people. I had the honour of being instructed by him in -the mysteries of the constitution of the United States, and even of -discussing with him the possibility of a League of Anglo-Saxon Peoples -to impose peace on the world. He impressed us all as a man of strength, -dignity, and character. The growing port and city of Rangoon interested -him, and he foresaw and foretold its early and rapid increase. May I -tell here a trivial story? At a reception at Government House in honour -of General Grant, whereat all Rangoon was present, one of the highest -officers brought down the house by withdrawing a chair on which the -Commissioner of Pegu was about to sit. As the Commissioner weighed -about twenty stone, he was somewhat seriously annoyed by this frolic, -though not, I am glad to say, hurt. I record the incident, and refrain -from moralizing. - -Though wealth has increased and the standard of living has been raised, -there seems to have been more money to spend in Rangoon in those days. -The great merchants vied with Government House in their entertainments. -One at least left a lasting impression. More than twenty years after -I tried in vain for some time to explain to my old native coachman -where he was to drive. At last my meaning dawned on him. "You want to -go to Leishmann Sahib's house." Now, Leishmann Sahib had opened his -doors to General Grant, and about a year later had left Rangoon for -ever. Rice and teak were the sole sources of wealth. The oil-fields -were as yet unexplored. The price of rice had not risen to its recent -fictitious height. There were no limited companies with opportunities -for unlimited speculation. - -About this time the Diocese of Rangoon was constituted, and Dr. J. H. -Titcomb was consecrated the first Bishop. Coming straight from England, -with no knowledge of the East, Bishop Titcomb's inexperience betrayed -him into some pardonable mistakes. Very soon after his arrival, he -surprised some friends with words to this effect: "Though I have been -here such a short time, I regret to say that already sorrow has visited -my household. I have had to give my cook a week's leave to bury his -grandmother." For a cook to ask leave to attend his grandmother's -funeral is much the same as for an undergraduate to prefer a similar -request in Derby week. I mean no disrespect to a good man's memory by -telling this innocent story. The Bishop won all hearts by his kind -and gentle bearing, and was, I am sure, an excellent occupant of the -new See. He was the first Prelate with whom I was privileged to play -lawn-tennis. - -A little earlier had been tried the eccentric experiment of appointing -a Forest Officer to the charge of the Education Department in the -temporary absence of the Director. The acting Director played the part -of Balaam with a difference. In his first and last Annual Report, -instead of blessing, he freely cursed the Department and all its works. -Mr. Max Ferrars still flourishes. He has returned to his early love, -and professes literature at a German University. He will forgive me for -exhuming this early incident of his career. The Education Department, -from time to time, has incurred much obloquy, for the most part -undeserved. Its errors have been due to want of intimate knowledge of -the language and customs of the people. Certainly it has never merited -the cynical censure, perhaps unwittingly implied in a Government -Resolution which, in removing an officer as an incorrigible drunkard, -remarked that he might obtain employment in the Education Department. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -THE FIRST SUBDIVISION: THE SECRETARIAT - - -My first subdivision was Pantanaw in the Delta of the Irrawaddy. The -town from which it was named stands on a narrow creek through which -used to pass the steamers of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company plying -between Rangoon and Bassein. Long since the mouth of the creek has -silted up. When next I visited Pantanaw, as Commissioner, I had to -approach the town in a small boat of the shallowest draft. But, in '79, -the arrival of the Bassein steamer was the event of the week. Pantanaw -is said to be a Talaing (and portmanteau) word meaning "The abode -of the people who have to use mosquito nets." If the Burma Research -Society correct this statement, I must bear it. At any rate, if the -etymology is false, the connotation is true. Burma could show places -where mosquitoes were more numerous and more valiant, where even cattle -had to be put under nets at night and prisoners in jail protected by -iron gratings. But the mosquitoes of Pantanaw were plentiful and brave -enough. After a short time one seems to become more or less immune -against ordinary mosquito bites. The new-comer is more succulent and -more attractive to this friendly insect. It is the song of the creature -which is a persistent annoyance. But the mosquito of these parts has -no curious taste. To the last he bit me as well as sang in my ears. -In those days the local mosquito apparently was not of the kind which -carries malaria. Or perhaps, owing to the backward state of sanitary -education, he had not yet learned his trade. Cholera and smallpox -excepted, the delta was comparatively free from serious diseases. -Though swampy and water-logged, it was not beset by malignant fevers. - -Our house was humble. In accordance with the usage of the time, it was -built on piles, so that the rooms were 8 or 10 feet above the ground. -Thus we lived well out of the mud and out of reach of snakes. An open, -slippery, wooden stair ascended to the doorway. The walls were of -mat, and the roof was of thatch. I am willing to believe that there -was a plank floor, though I have a vague impression that we trod on -split bamboos. The house consisted of one fairly large room, divided -into two by a mat partition reaching nearly to the unceiled roof. -One part was the bedroom, with a bathroom attached, the other was a -combined dining- and drawing-room. Tacked on was one more room, about -the size of a three-berth cabin. This was the study or library. Having -mosquito netting over door and windows, it was habitable even after -sunset. During our sojourn, Government very kindly began to build a -nice new house for us. It was our Promised Land, of which we had but a -Pisgah-sight. We watched its progress with interest, often visiting -the work and suggesting small improvements. We were transferred about a -week before it was finished. I slept in it once, twenty years after. - -Pantanaw was a depot for Ngapi, that malodorous compound of decayed -fish in which Burmans delight. The public buildings were a courthouse -with a police-station hard by, a hospital, a schoolhouse, and a -bazaar, or market. The rest of the town consisted of native houses of -fishermen, traders, and brokers. In the dry weather, the foreshore -was covered with huts. Bitter and ceaseless were the disputes between -brokers and traders about claims to hut-sites on the sands. The streets -were causeways of loose bricks. Except through the town itself, we had -one walk, over one of these brick paths to the Burmese cemetery. The -whole subdivision supported one pony. He lived in ease and affluence, -as you could not ride for half a mile without coming upon an impassable -stream. We were the only European inhabitants. Two other people spoke -English, a Jew shopkeeper named Cohen, whom Burmans, not holding him -in high respect, preferred to call Maung Hein,[31] and an Arakanese -schoolmaster, with whom I maintained an intermittent acquaintance -to the end of my service. Our nearest English neighbours were the -subdivisional officer of Yandoon and his wife, who on one red-letter -day paid us a flying visit. Our medical attendant was an Indian -hospital assistant, or as now he would be called more appropriately, -Sub-assistant surgeon, a very capable, good man. The civil surgeon -lived at Maubin, the district headquarters, a day's journey off. To -young civilians of the present time, this would seem an impossible -place for a man with a wife and child. We enjoyed life and were happy. -The experience was of use to me, years afterwards, as secretary, when -young officers complained of their posting by the Chief Commissioner to -remote and unpopular stations. Even the young wife could not be played -with effect. But I believe I got myself disliked. - -My official colleague was the subdivisional police officer, Maung -Shwe O, Inspector, afterwards Assistant Superintendent. He was a very -smart, good-looking man, whose subsequent career was distinguished. -I maintained friendly relations with him as long as I stayed in -Burma. The clerks in my office were Burmans, who spoke and wrote only -Burmese. Very capable and efficient were many of these vernacular -clerks, thoroughly versed in office routine and management, and well -educated in their own language. My head clerk, Maung Shwe Tha, was a -man of presence and dignity, with, it was said, a trace of French blood -in his veins. The Circle Thugyi still, I hope, survives in honoured -retirement. His son became one of the most useful members of the -Provincial Service. - -The subdivision was of very large extent. Comprising the townships of -Pantanaw and Shwelaung, it stretched past Kyunpyathat to the sea. At -Shwelaung there was a Myo-ok, but at Pantanaw I was my own township -officer. I had to try all civil and criminal cases, to copy English -correspondence, and to do the revenue and executive work of the -township. Though during my year at Pantanaw I had only second class -powers as a magistrate, still, without a Myo-ok at headquarters, and -with all these various duties, it might be supposed that I was grossly -overworked. On the contrary, I had an easier time there than ever after -fell to my lot. Still young and zealous, I believe I did all there -was to be done. But I found time to be on tour about half of every -month, while in the cold weather I spent more than a solid month in the -jungle, walking over rice-fields, inspecting, measuring, and computing -the out-turn of every holding in respect of which remission of revenue -was claimed. As there had been a somewhat widespread failure of the -rice crop, this was a task of some magnitude. The development of the -country and the growth of work are impressed on me by nothing so much -as by a comparison between the Pantanaw subdivision in 1879-80 and -the same area in the present day. Then, with the help of one not very -efficient Burmese Myo-ok, I did all the work of the subdivision with -ease. Now that area is a large part of the Ma-u-bin and Myaung-m[)y]a -districts. It occupies half the time of a Deputy Commissioner and -District Judge, and half the time of one or two subdivisional officers, -who break down in succession from overwork, four or five township -officers, and several judicial and additional Myo-oks. The Shwelaung -Township is now the Wakema Subdivision, one of the most laborious -charges in the Province. A very small, obscure, and swampy village was -Mawlamyainggyun, now the headquarters of a township, and one of the -most flourishing towns in the Delta. I have always cherished the belief -that I was the first European official to discover it. - -In those days and in that part of the country there was a remarkable -absence of serious crime. During my year at Pantanaw one murder was -committed and one dacoity was reported. Of the dacoity I made a full -meal. The report reached me when on tour in the middle of the rains. -Off I went in a small open dugout to make an investigation on the spot. -Arriving, drenched to the bones, with no kit, I held the inquiry, clad -in a bath towel, reclining in the balcony of a Burmese hut, partly -sheltered by a mat-wall. I fared sumptuously on boiled eggs, rice, and -jaggery (palm sugar), fare, which I commend, as, if not noble, yet -enough. A mat on a plank floor was a sufficient sleeping-place. I never -found any difficulty in sleeping on boards. The really hard bed is the -bosom of mother earth with too scanty an allowance of straw. The report -of the dacoity was false. - -At Pantanaw I learned to talk Burmese with fluency, if not with -accuracy, and to read it with ease. I had to talk it or be silent half -my days. And all office work had to be done in the vernacular. But -too early and too long a stay in the Secretariat and constitutional -indolence prevented me from acquiring a profound or scholarly -knowledge of the language. Up to a certain point Burmese does not -seem to me abnormally difficult. The written character, though at -first sight it looks impossible, is much easier than, for example, -Urdu script. But the attainment of real proficiency is a laborious -task. The want of good literature is a discouragement at the outset. -For, as a literary medium, Burmese is singularly defective. According -to one of the best authorities, the high-water mark of Burmese prose -is reached in the State papers of the Hlut-daw.[32] As if one should -seek for models of prose in Blue-Books. A wealth of idioms, a chaotic -grammar,[33] a variety of delicate accents, combine to bewilder the -student. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, most of our officers have -a good knowledge of the spoken and written language, and some are -finished scholars. One thing all can do: all can read petitions and -other vernacular papers, and are less in the hands of clerks than -officers are understood to be in other Provinces. - -Here, too, I had opportunities of learning in practice something -about two of the main sources of revenue, land and fisheries. Though -the Land and Revenue Act, recently brought into operation, is not -the most lucid of statutes, the land-revenue system is free from -complexity. Its chief merits were sweetness and simplicity,[34] as an -ingenious printer tried to make the Burma Government plead for its -transliteration scheme. The State was the landlord. It was, then, an -article of faith that there were no tenants in Burma, that every man -cultivated his own moderate holding. Though not literally, this was -for a long time approximately true. In the Delta land was to be had -in abundance, and Burmans and Karens for the most part cultivated -their own farms. A constant and sufficient rainfall and a fertile soil -combined to yield a rich harvest. Regular settlements were not begun -till a year or two later. Meanwhile the rates of land revenue were -absurdly low. Each holding was supposed to be measured yearly by the -Circle Thugyi, who had no training in surveying. The Thugyi gathered -in the revenue of his Circle and received a liberal commission on the -collections. If crops failed or were destroyed by drought, floods, or -rats, generous remissions of revenue were granted after inspection -by the subdivisional or township officer, or, where large sums were -involved, by the Deputy Commissioner himself. When I hear urged against -the proposed nationalization of land the consideration that the State -would be an austere landlord, requiring its dues each year without pity -or indulgence, I cannot help remembering that it was far otherwise in -Burma. It may be, however, that in other countries the system would not -be worked by a Service whose members from their youth up are trained -to sympathize with the people, to regard as their title to respect -the name of the cherisher of the poor. Besides land revenue, the only -tax paid by the cultivator was capitation tax. This was paid by all -sorts and conditions of men, except the aged and infirm, at the rate -of Rs. 5 for a married man, and Rs. 2/8 for a bachelor. It was a crude -and unscientific tax, falling equally on rich and poor. But it was a -light burden, and crushed no one. The standard of living among Burmans -and Karens in the Delta was moderately high. Luxuries were few, but -comforts were universal. Walking over miles of rice-fields in familiar -talk with Thugyis and farmers, I became acquainted with the conditions -of the cultivators, and I laid the foundation of lasting esteem and -affection for the people. - -My subdivision included many of the great fisheries of the Delta. All -the streams and creeks were divided into fisheries, which were sold -by auction once a year. The Court House would be filled with bidders, -all fishermen, and the bidding was often reckless. The large fisheries -sold for substantial sums, the total annual revenue being about five -lakhs of rupees. Inspection of fisheries and examination of the methods -of working were among the subdivisional officer's duties. Fishermen -destroy living creatures, and by good Buddhists are held to be children -of perdition. But they enjoy life, regardless of the doom in store. A -visit to one of the great fishing villages was an agreeable incident, -pleasantly varying the monotony of official routine. The whole village -turned out in boats to welcome us. Boats paddled by girls in bright -attire, carrying troupes of dancers gracefully posturing, crowded the -stream in picturesque profusion. Races between canoes filled with -crowds of shouting paddlers went on throughout the day. At night would -be presented a pwe, or many pwes. Pwe is one of the hardest worked of -Burmese words, and represents perhaps the most characteristic feature -of the country. In its best-known sense it means an entertainment, -usually dramatic, or of the nature of a ballet. But a race also is a -pwe, and so, singularly enough, is an examination or a Durbar. The -legitimate drama is a puppet-show, the dolls being cleverly worked by -strings from behind the stage, and the dialogue hoarsely recited by the -manipulator with hardly an attempt at ventriloquial effect. Less highly -esteemed by Burmese connoisseurs is a drama played by real actors and -actresses. The stock characters are the prince, the princess, and -the clown. The princess, unabashed, arranges her hair, makes up her -cheeks and eyebrows, and even manages to change her dress in view of -the assembly. The clown, by boisterous and often indecorous jest, -raises peals of merriment. The ballet pwe is a set of posture dances, -performed either by one, two, or three girls, or by groups, generally -of girls, sometimes of young boys. Dancing is accompanied by choric -songs, often topically composed for the occasion. If distinguished -visitors are present, the choral song is written to honour and welcome -them. The orchestra consists of drums, gongs, cymbals, and other -barbarous instruments placed in a circle round the agile executant. In -bygone days no charge was made for admission. That was an essential -condition. Now I hear with horror of so-called pwes played in -enclosures where money is taken at the door. A pwe lasted for hours. -Almost invariably it was performed in the open air, under the moonlit -sky, the spectators, men, women, children, and babies, sitting on mats, -smoking cheroots, enthralled from dusk to dawn. For my part I liked -best the ballet, danced by groups of young girls, daughters of the -town or village, and after that the drama played by human actors and -actresses. But I must admit that in a puppet-show the comic white horse -gaily prancing over the boards was a joy which never failed. During my -year at Pantanaw I was a welcome guest at many pwes, none of which I -attended with greater pleasure than a ballet danced by the girls of a -large fishing village. - -All our travelling was by water. There was not a steam-launch in -the Delta. Even the Deputy Commissioner did all his journeys in a -rice-boat. Such a luxury as a houseboat had not been designed even -in a vision. An officer going on tour hired a fairly large boat with -three or four rowers, and with a helmsman (penin) perched aloft in the -stern. Often one had the same boat and crew for successive journeys. -My pet penin was a man of authority (awza) and presence, traditionally -reputed to be an ex-dacoit. I hope he did not relapse in the troubles -which came a few years later. The forepart of the boat was for the crew -and servants. The after-deck, covered by an arched roof of bamboo, -formed a chamber sufficiently roomy wherein was space to sit or lie but -not to stand upright. Privacy was secured by arrangements of kalagas -(curtains). In such a boat I travelled for a week, a fortnight, a month -at a time, halting at infrequent villages, interviewing headmen and -Thugyis, trying cases, and doing revenue and executive work. As a rule -I travelled alone, always unarmed and without a guard. No precautions -were needed in that time of profound peace, when we felt, and were, -secure from danger. Propelled by long oars, the boat moved generally -with the tide. But I have known Burmans row with, and against, the -tide for hours at a stretch, a fact which may surprise people taught -to regard the Burman as an idle fellow. He is neither idle nor lazy. -When occasion demands, he will work as hard as anyone. The farmer and -fisherman each has seasons when he must rise up early and late take his -rest. What the Burman does not care to do is to make toil a pleasure; -to work merely for the sake of doing something or for the purpose of -amassing wealth beyond his needs. With a fertile country, with no -pressure of population on subsistence, with few wants, why should he -strive or cry? For him progress and the strenuous life in themselves -have no attraction. We are trying to teach him our ideals, to show him -how far superior is our civilization. When we shall have succeeded, -we shall have spoilt the pleasantest country and the most delightful -people in the world. - -But let us resume our tour. By day or night, as the tide serves, our -boat moves on the bosom of the wide river or threads the windings of -narrow creeks. In the rains I have been rowed against a storm of -wind, in a shroud of thick darkness. Again, I have skirted miles of -forest-clad banks, each bush alive with myriads of fireflies, an -amazing and memorable sight. When villages were scarce, a halt would -be called and breakfast taken under the shade of a mighty tree on the -grassy margin of the stream. If we stayed at a village for a day or -two, our temporary home was a zayat, one of the many rest-houses built -by pious hands for the comfort of wayfarers. Every village had on its -outskirts at least one zayat, where the traveller could rest as long -as he pleased. With the help of a few kalagas and mats lent by the -villagers, a zayat could be made quite comfortable. It was somewhat -startling to have a snake drop from the thatched roof on to one's -plate at chota haziri.[35] But such an unpleasing incident was rare. -Twice in the dry season I ventured to take my young family on tour, -and each time we were swamped by cataracts of abnormal rain. Once we -were putting up in a roomy zayat, when, soon after dark, a hurricane of -wind arose, and a deluge of rain began to fall. The kalagas were blown -in, and the baby almost blown out of his cot. We were rescued by the -headman, who came with a train of lantern-bearers, and hospitably bore -us off to his house. The rest of the night we spent under the family -mosquito-net, the family finding quarters elsewhere. The mosquito-net -was of stout opaque cloth, and covered the space of a fair-sized room. -My wife went no more on tour in the Delta. - -[Illustration: BURMESE HOUSES.] - -A pleasant interlude was an occasional visit to Father Bertrand at -his mission-station in a remote corner of the subdivision. It is a -common pose for the man of the world to profess to regard missionaries -with suspicion, if not dislike, and to hold native Christians in -abhorrence. My experience has led me far from these conclusions. The -longer I lived in the Province, the better I came to like, the more -to respect, missionaries, and the more esteem I felt for Burmese -and Karen Christians. The principal missionary bodies in Burma are -Anglicans, Roman Catholics, and American Baptists. Among all these I -have found valued friends. One of the most venerable personalities of -my early years was the saintly Bishop Bigandet, whose name will always -be held in reverence. Apart from the religious aspect, the educational -and civilizing value of mission-work cannot be overrated. Some of -the best schools and one of the only two colleges are maintained by -missions. Though Burmans generally adhere to their own creed, those -who have become Christians are for the most part men of good standing. -I do not think there are many bread-and-butter converts among them. -In an Upper Burman village I found a Christian headman, who told me -that his progenitors had been of the same faith. A mission, it was -said, had been established there in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and -the altar-fire had been kept alive for three centuries. It seemed a -creditable record. But the most abundant harvest of mission-work is -yielded by Karens. The heathen Karen, the missionaries call him, is -an uncouth, savage person. The Christian Karen, though lacking the -grace and charm of the Burman, is a law-abiding citizen, with many -sterling virtues. Even by Burmese officers it is recognized that -there is very little crime among Christian Karens. For this backward -race missionaries of all denominations have done a vast amount of -educating and civilizing work. Without wishing to make any invidious -distinction, I know nothing more praiseworthy than the devotion of -Catholic missionaries, who live ascetic lives in solitary places, -sacrificing the world to their vocation, subsisting on nothing a month, -and giving alms out of that wage. While on this subject, I may mention -the admirable work done among lepers by Catholic missions in Mandalay -and Rangoon. At each of these places is an asylum for these hapless -outcasts, where all the nursing and attendance are done by nuns and -sisters. The devotion of these gentle ladies is beyond all words of -reverence. Another excellent Catholic foundation is the Home of the -Little Sisters of the Poor in Rangoon. Here aged and helpless men and -women, without distinction of race or creed, are received and kept -in comfort. It is pleasant to record that the Home has been warmly -and liberally supported by a Burmese Buddhist, my worthy friend the -Honourable Maung Htoon Myat. - -The memory of Father Bertrand has led me far from Pantanaw. Our first -year in a subdivision was full of novelty and variety, not of an -exciting kind, and perhaps not of interest except to ourselves. Though -I learned something of the people, my stay was too short. I have no -claim to intimate knowledge of the Delta, such as that of my successor, -Mr. de la Courneuve, or my lamented friend Colonel F. D. Maxwell,[36] -who knew every creek and channel, and, apparently, every man, woman, -and child, and who was the leading authority on all questions relating -to fisheries. While at Pantanaw I made the acquaintance of the -remarkable man who planned and executed the Irrawaddy Embankments, -the late Mr. Robert Gordon. The mere financial value of this colossal -undertaking to the people and to Government may be reckoned by millions -of pounds. The work has stood the test of time, and still remains a -monument of skill and foresight, and a source of enormous revenue. - -In 1880 I spent a year in the Secretariat. After acting for a short -time as Assistant Secretary, I was retained as third man to prepare the -Annual Administration Report and see through the Press the departmental -Reports and Resolutions. My friend Mr. Burgess was acting as Secretary, -the Junior Secretary was Mr. E. S. Symes,[37] one of the most brilliant -men of his time. He became in succession Secretary, Chief Secretary, -and Commissioner. When the highest prizes of the Service were within -his grasp, a career of great distinction was prematurely ended in -melancholy circumstances early in the year 1901. _Sunt lacrimae rerum._ -Whatever of Secretariat work I knew, I learned from Mr. Burgess and Mr. -Symes. The Chief Engineer and Public Works Secretary was Colonel Colin -Scott-Moncrieff.[38] This year, Mr. Aitchison went to Council, and was -succeeded by Mr. C. E. Bernard.[39] One of the last civilians from -Haileybury, a nephew of John and Henry Lawrence, Mr. Bernard came to -Burma with a great reputation. After serving for a short time under Sir -John Lawrence in the Punjab, and later with unprecedented distinction -in the Central Provinces under Sir Richard Temple and in Bengal under -Sir George Campbell, he became Secretary to Sir Richard Temple's Famine -Commission, and then Secretary to Government in the Home Department. -He was much trusted by Lord Ripon, with whose political opinions he -sympathized. To him, I believe, is mainly due the wide extension -of Municipal Administration in India. This, perhaps, can hardly be -regarded as his title to fame. - -In the period covered by my recollections Mr. Bernard holds a foremost -place, and will be often in the story. He was one of those rare souls -who are the salt of the earth. Bearing, I believe, in appearance some -likeness to John, in character he was akin to Henry Lawrence. Deeply -and sincerely in sympathy with the people, despising the gaud and -glitter which some regard as essential in dealing with Orientals,[40] -hating the shadow of injustice or harshness, his sole desire was to -do his duty to the utmost of his strength. His kindly consideration -was no mark of weakness. On occasion he could be stern and unbending. -He exacted, as he yielded, obedience. Combining with the finest moral -and intellectual qualities eminence in all manly pursuits, he stands -forth as an ideal figure among the men who have built up the Indian -Empire. No more chivalrous, high-minded gentleman ever served the -Crown. As an administrator, his knowledge of detail, his extraordinary -memory, his power of rapid work, were almost unparalleled. It is -ungracious to suggest even minor defects in one to whom I owe so much -and who inspired in those privileged to be near him all reverence -and affection. It may be that impatience of delay and of any failure -from the best led him to do the work of his subordinates and that -sometimes his judgment erred. But what nobility of soul, what zeal for -righteousness, what effacement of self, what courage and resolution, -what fervent, unaffected piety! Twenty years later, when mourned by -all good men, Sir Charles Bernard had long gone to his rest, his widow -was again in Burma. On the eve of her departure, entirely of their own -initiative, representative Burmans of Rangoon brought her an address -and a piece of Burmese silver-work as a token of respect for her -husband's memory.[41] - -No one but Mr. Pepys could make interesting the record of daily -journeys to the Secretariat and the compilation of Blue-Books. Let -it suffice to say that we established a precedent by observing -the prescribed date for the issue of the Administration Report, a -gloomy volume which no one save the compiler of Moral and Material -Progress has ever been known to read. Mr. Regan, the indefatigable -Superintendent of the Government Press, who never once failed in any -undertaking, or in the fulfilment of a promise, risked his life in -a sampan and hurled the copies for India on to the mail-boat a few -minutes before she left her moorings at midnight. The Report was not -lightened by the statement that "a little tasteful carving relieves the -baldness of some of our police officers." That was not the fault of the -printer. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -SOME ASPECTS OF BURMESE LIFE AND CHARACTER - - -One of the odd jobs which fell to my lot in my first year was to -consult the Elders of Bassein on the opium question. They were -unanimous in their condemnation of opium in every shape. Some races -consume opium in moderation, as Englishmen drink beer, without visible -harm. Indians, Chinese, Shans, Kachins, may be consumers of opium, -and none the worse in health or morals. The Burman is differently -constituted. Perhaps by temperament he lacks restraint, doing nothing -without overdoing it. Whenever a Burman takes to opium, he drifts -into excess and becomes an outcast from decent society. The feeling -of the better classes is perfectly consistent on this point. The term -"bein-sa" (opium-eater) is among the most opprobrious epithets that -can be applied to anyone. Among other races people of decent standing -use opium as a relaxation without loss of caste. Among Burmans it is -not so. Throughout my service I knew only one man of position who was -reputed to be a bein-sa. Even in his case the reputation may have been -undeserved. In Upper Burma, in the King's time, the use of opium by -Burmans was strictly prohibited, and I believe the prohibition was -generally enforced. Exceptions were made in the case of Chinese and -others. But the suggestion that when we occupied Upper Burma we found -a flourishing though illicit opium traffic in full swing is quite -unsupported by facts. As a race, it may be said that Burmans are -singularly free from the opium vice. The more difficult it is made for -Burmans to procure this drug, the better it will be for the country. - -Similarly, but in a less marked degree, intoxicating drinks are avoided -by good Buddhists. I was many years in Burma before I saw a drunken -Burman. I am afraid that the habit of drinking is on the increase. The -most popular liquor is what is vulgarly called "toddy," no relation -to the concoction dear to Britons. It is not a spirit, but a juice -extracted from the tari palm, and should rightly be called tan-ye, -or tari. Unfermented, freshly drawn from the tree in the cool of the -morning, it is a pleasant and refreshing drink, if somewhat oversweet. -It ferments rapidly of its own accord. Fermented, it is a heady liquor, -stealing away men's brains. In dry tracts, where the tari palm abounds, -the consumption of tari is very common, though still, I think, not -among the better classes. The Burman has no head, and succumbs at -once to a comparatively small quantity of liquor. In his cups he is a -quarrelsome, truculent savage, one of the most dangerous of created -beings. Hence, in districts where palm-groves decorate the landscape, -violent crimes, murders, cuttings, stabbings, are lamentably frequent. -It has been suggested that if all tari and kindred palms were -destroyed, the golden age would come again. Besides tari, country-made -spirits are consumed in large quantities, and illicit distillation is -commonly practised, a lucrative trade which fine or imprisonment fails -to suppress. For European liquors, except, perhaps, bottled beer, as -yet little taste has been acquired. I should like to say that the habit -of drinking is confined to labourers and peasants; but it cannot be -denied that many people of position, who should set an example, indulge -in it. Yet, on the whole, to drink is the exception; to abstain is the -rule. - -Let us turn to pleasanter topics. The amusements of the people are -many and various. In the village street you will see men sitting over -a chess-board playing a game very much like the chess known in Europe. -The moves and rules are similar, though the shape of the pieces and -their names are different. A bad habit prevails of finishing each -move by thumping the piece loudly on the board. Card games are also -in high favour, the most esteemed being the game called "ko-mi," -literally, "catch the nine." Of course, cards are played for money. -The Burman is a born gambler, and indulges his propensity on every -available occasion. We have austerely set our faces against gambling -in every form, especially gambling with cards, and interfere not a -little with this fascinating pastime. Perhaps, contrary to the current -opinion derived from tales of travellers and legends from the hills, -the real defect of the Englishman in Burma is that he is too serious, -too little inclined to make allowances for a joyous, light-hearted -people. Public gambling is sternly discountenanced. For many years the -Legislature has been occupied in devising measures for its suppression, -meeting by fresh enactments the ingenious efforts of the Courts to find -means to rescue the gambler from the meshes of the law, of the gambler -to sail as near to the wind as possible without capsizing. To the -impartial observer these alternate struggles of the Legislature to make -its prohibitions effective, of the Courts to provide loopholes for the -gambler to escape, afford much healthy amusement. I have taken a hand -in the game on both sides in progressive stages of a varied career. Let -me not be thought too flippant. If Burmans would be content to have -quiet little ko-mi parties of friends in their own houses, I for one -should be the last to object. But it is a well-known fact that gambling -parties are not conducted on these principles. Practically it may be -said that in every gambling party someone makes a profit apart from -the chances or skill of the game. This is the essential distinction of -a common gaming-house, and the practice is properly discouraged. When -it is added that gaming parties constantly lead to brawls, affrays, -violent assaults, and indirectly to thefts and embezzlements, perhaps -the attitude of the earnest official may be regarded with sympathy. -Pitch-and-toss and other forms of gambling in public places are -prohibited, as in most civilized countries. Lotteries are exceedingly -popular; they are for the most part promoted by the intelligent -Chinaman, to the detriment of the guileless Burman. A pleasing form -is that known as the "thirty-six animal" lottery. The punter stakes -on any of the animals on the board; the winning animal, having been -previously secretly determined, is disclosed when the stakes have been -made. There is room here for deception. King Thebaw is supposed to have -ruined half Mandalay by State lotteries established for the purpose -of raising revenue. No one will be surprised to hear that lotteries -on races, to which the authorities are discreetly blind, are warmly -supported by Burmans of all classes; they are of a mild description, -tickets are cheap, and really hurt no one, like the capitation tax. -It is almost superfluous to record that cock-fighting is a favourite -pastime; this, too, is against the law, but it is hardly on this -account less popular. I have heard of, but never seen, fights between -buffaloes and even elephants. - -[Illustration: CHIN-LON.] - -An innocent game in which so far no one has found the taint of sin -is Burmese football (chin lon). It is played in the village street -or any open space, with a light, open-worked bamboo ball, by any -number of players. Some Burmans attain great proficiency, kicking -the ball with toe or heel, catching it on their shoulders, making -it leap unexpectedly by mere exertion of the muscles. Real football -is, of course, an exotic, but has attained great popularity. It is -seldom that the introducer of a national game can be identified, but -in this case due credit can be given to the right person. British -football was introduced into Burma some forty years ago by Sir George -Scott. When his statue adorns Fytche Square, among other trophies -a football must be carved at his feet. The game is played with zeal -and enthusiasm by countless Burman boys and young men. To see Burmans -kicking a football with naked feet is a lesson in the hardness of the -human sole. Football matches attract great crowds of Burmans in Rangoon -and elsewhere. Mercifully the adoption of the Association form of the -game has been ordained. To think of hot-headed Burmans engaged in the -rough-and-tumble of Rugby excites lurid imaginings. As it is; the -referee has an arduous and anxious time. For the most part, however, -good-humour and a sporting spirit prevail. - -Pony-races, races of trotting bullocks drawing light carts, elephant- -races, boat-races, are among the most popular sports. These also, -here as elsewhere, give opportunities for gambling; but, apart from -this, great interest is taken in them. In one of my subdivisions on one -day of every week a local pony race-meeting was held, attended by the -whole population of the small headquarter town, and often graced by the -presence of the leading officials. In those parts of the country which -are comparatively or absolutely dry Burmans are good riders, accustomed -to ponies from their childhood. Their saddle is horribly uncomfortable -to a European, their stirrups short, their knees near their noses. The -favourite pace is a smooth amble, untiring, it is thought, both to -rider and to steed. I have seen a Burman, to avoid a soft place, ride -a pony for some yards along the parapet of a bridge with a good drop -below. - -As might be expected in a country where the waterways are many, Burmans -are an amphibious race, good swimmers, at home in the water, and expert -in the management of boats with oars and sails. Wherever there is a -stream, the whole population bathes either at dawn or dusk. Men, women, -and children swim about together, and perfect decorum is observed. -Of course, boat-races are a popular amusement. Long shallow canoes, -paddled by twenty or thirty men, all shouting a boastful song, contend -in these races. At the goal is a wand suspended through a hollow -bamboo. The man in the bow of the leading boat carries off the wand. -There is thus never any dispute as to the winner. The pace is pretty -good, but not nearly so fast as that of a good English four or eight. - -As strict Buddhists, Burmans are supposed to abstain from animal food, -or, at least, from taking life for the purpose of providing food. For -fishermen, who must break this precept daily, special uncomfortable -hells are reserved. Hunting and shooting are practised at grave risk -of future disaster, and usually by the younger men who think they have -time to make up for these derelictions, or are giddily thoughtless -of the hereafter. A pious friend of mine in Upper Burma used to be -much scandalized at the levity of his aged father, who persisted in -coursing hares when he ought to have been making his soul. But as -regards the consumption of flesh of birds, beasts, and fish, there -seems to be no practical restraint among any class. So long as you -are not instrumental in causing death, you may safely eat the flesh. -Beef and poultry are freely eaten when available. Often stolen cattle -are slaughtered and eaten. The flesh of no creature which has died a -natural death, except perhaps dogs and tigers, is despised. Things -which to our taste have weird scent and flavour are highly appreciated. -The most popular article of food is ngapi, a composition of fish -suffered to decompose and prepared in many ways, all equally malodorous -in result. This is universally used as seasoning of rice at all meals. -Then there is a dreadful fruit which grows in the south, called a -"durian," a large green fruit, bigger than an average cocoanut, with -a thick rind, containing big seeds embedded in a sort of custard. It -emits a disgusting odour, which cannot be described in polite language. -Of this fruit Burmans are inordinately fond. In the King's time, every -year as the season came round, His Majesty used to charter a steamer -solely to bring up a cargo of durians. When, in later years, I told -the Ministers that we were about to build a railway to Mandalay, the -Prime Minister's first remark was: "Excellent; then we shall be able to -get our durians fresh." To my mind the taste is worse than the smell. -Yet many Europeans regard this fruit as a delicacy, and eat it freely, -even greedily. My theory is that the taste was painfully acquired by -officers stationed in remote places where durians grow, and where there -is nothing to do. By these pioneers others were persuaded to essay the -high adventure. Of a habit so difficult of acquisition and so morbid, -the devotees are naturally a little proud. One might suppose that -the nostrils of people who love ngapi and durians were proof against -any smell. On the contrary, Burmans are very sensitive to the smell -of oil burnt in cooking, which they regard as _odor nervis inimicus_, -particularly hurtful to the sick, but grievous to anyone. The third -characteristic article of diet in Burma is let-pet (pickled tea). So -far as I know, this is the ordinary tea of commerce, grown almost -entirely in the Northern Shan State of Taungbaing. It is not used to -make an infusion; the leaf is prepared for use as a condiment. The -trade and cultivation are entirely in the hands of Shans and Palaungs. -Let-pet was brought down from the hills packed in long baskets borne -on bullocks, now more commonly by train. It was formerly an article -monopolized by the King. I have not heard of any European professing to -like the taste of let-pet. - -The Burman is first of all an agriculturist. He is only a moderately -good carpenter, though he can put the bamboo to many uses. As a -boat-builder he excels, fashioning large boats on lines of grace and -beauty. Also he can, of course, make his own flimsy house of mat and -thatch, or a more substantial dwelling of teak or jungle-wood. But the -few manual industries in which Burmans really shine are those which -have an artistic basis. Where the secret of a glaze is known, as at -Bassein in the delta, and at Kyaukmyaung, the port of Shwebo, pottery -is practised as an hereditary art, and many gracious shapes and designs -are fashioned out of ductile clay. Silk is grown by an obscure race -called Yabeins. But it is as dangerous to cultivate the silkworm as -to be a fisherman. More often, therefore, imported silk is used on -Burmese looms, where cloths of lovely mingled colours and delicious -wavy patterns are still produced. Alas! this charming domestic industry -is on the wane, and both silks and cottons are now as a rule imported -from Europe. The fine natural taste of the people is deteriorating. -One of the saddest signs of this degeneracy is the substitution of the -ugly gingham or silk umbrella for the darling, bright-coloured little -tis,[42] which used to preserve the complexions of Burmese maids. -This cruel sacrifice to economy and utility has almost succeeded in -spoiling the incomparable dazzling glory of mingled colour which used -to characterize a Burmese crowd. On the occasion of a royal visit to -Mandalay, when boat-races were being held on the Moat amid the most -picturesque surroundings, the delightful effect of rows upon rows of -gaily dressed Burmans lining the farther edge was marred by a forest of -imported umbrellas reared hideous to the sky. However, word was sent -along the line that it was disrespectful to raise an umbrella in the -presence of royalty. And as if at the touch of an enchanter's wand, the -horrible excrescences disappeared and light and beauty reigned once -more. - -[Illustration: THE POTTER.] - -[Illustration: THE MYO-OK-GADAW.] - -An extraordinarily effective art is the lacquer-work of Pagan. Bowls -of exquisite shape, boxes for sacred books or for carrying the -necessary betel, offer choice specimens of the artist's skill. The -designs in rich colouring on these lovely works are full of vigour -and originality. Lacquering is a laborious art. A really fine box or -bowl takes months to complete. The most elaborate work is based on a -foundation of horsehair, the finished product so flexible and supple -that a bowl can be bent till the opposite sides meet without the fabric -cracking. I confess that, as regards my own treasured specimens, I -am content to know that this can be done without putting them to the -test. Even at Pagan the hateful modern spirit has begun to shed baleful -influence. Mingled with bowls and boxes, consecrated by use and wont, -may be seen cigar cases of Western shapes and other signs of decadence. - -Burmese silver-work and wood-carving are world-renowned. These fine -arts are still flourishing. Besides fashioning portable articles, such -as figures of men and elephants, or ornamented boxes, wood-carvers show -their skill and taste in elaborate designs on monasteries and other -public buildings. Some of the carving on monasteries in Mandalay, the -Queen's Monastery in A Road, and others of earlier date, is of the -highest aesthetic merit. The specimens of wood-carving in the Palace -have never appealed to me so intensely. In the presentation of figures -the execution is bold and dignified. Wood-carving seems to me to have -preserved its native simplicity, to have been less affected than other -arts by devastating Western contact. Silver-workers still produce -fabrics of grace and beauty in the best indigenous fashion; but too -often degenerate teapots and decadent toilet-sets give evidence of -debasing utilitarian propaganda. I grieve to hear that electric light -has been installed on the Great Pagoda in Rangoon as well as in the -temple of the Yakaing Paya.[43] Much have we done for Burma. But it -is sad to think that we have sullied and smirched the tender bloom of -Burmese art and artistic ideals. - -Of the national character, indications will be found scattered over -these pages. It is a mass of apparent inconsistencies. Kindness -and compassion are noticeable virtues. Children are treated with -indulgence, not always according to discretion. You will see a -constable come off a long spell of sentry duty, and straightway -walk about with a child perched on his shoulder. No orphan is left -desolate. No stranger asks in vain for food and shelter. Yet these -good people have a full mixture of original sin. They produce dacoits -who perpetrate unspeakable barbarities on old men and women. Sudden -and quick in quarrel, the use of the knife is lamentably common. Gay, -careless, light-hearted, with a strong if uncultured sense of humour, -they can be cruel and revengeful. The statistics of the Courts reveal -a mass of criminality as shocking as it is surprising. Murders, -dacoities, robberies, violent assaults, are far too numerous. I can -understand the prevalence of crimes of passion and impulse; but in a -land flowing with milk and honey, a fair and fertile land where there -are work and food enough for everyone, I cannot understand why there -should be any such sordid crimes as theft and embezzlement. - -Two characteristics distinguish Burmans from most other Eastern races. -They have no caste, and there is no seclusion of women. Socially, -therefore, we can meet on equal terms. A Burman does not shrink from -eating and drinking in our company, or need to undergo elaborate and -expensive purification if by accident or design he is sullied by our -contact. If I go to visit a Burman, I am received by his wife and -daughters, and in turn when, often with the ladies of his house, he -comes to see me, he is welcome to associate on friendly terms with -my family. The absence of caste does much to facilitate the task of -administration. Partly owing to the intelligence and docility of the -people, but mainly on account of this lack of caste, we were able, -for instance, to carry out, with no serious trouble, measures for -suppressing plague. Our real difficulty, I may say parenthetically, was -to find the right measures to take. In the end what some people call -the disgusting practice of inoculation seems to have been found most -beneficial. In some places people were encouraged to be inoculated by -making the occasion a festival; pwes were held, small presents given -to children, prizes distributed by lotteries in which the chances were -free. In Sagaing last year, out of a population of ten thousand, eight -thousand were inoculated. The local officers and their wives underwent -the operation, often more than once, by way of inspiring confidence, -as for the same purpose my wife and I were vaccinated years before at -Pantanaw. Among those inoculated there were no cases of plague. The -ridiculous suggestion that inoculation tends to spread plague has -been, we might almost say, disproved by specific experiments in Burma -and, I doubt not, elsewhere. - -To resume. Burmese women hold a position as dignified and assured as -in any country of the world. Every Buddhist believes that women are -inferior to men, that a really good woman may have the luck to be born -a man in a future incarnation. Every Burman knows that a woman is as -good as a man, and often better. It was in my experience that occurred -the pleasing incident elsewhere told not quite correctly. A young woman -came to me for a reduction of her income-tax. She said she earned her -living by selling in the bazaar. - -"What does your husband do?" I asked. - -"He stays at home and minds the children." - -This was an exceptional case, but it illustrates the relative position. -Burmese women take an active part in the business of the country. Most -of the retail trade is in their hands; sometimes they manage more -important commercial affairs. The control of a stall in bazaar or -market is regarded as a very desirable occupation. Is it indiscreet -to suggest that opportunity for gossip is an attraction? Often a wife -takes great interest in her husband's official or private work. If one -has business with a police-sergeant or Thugyi, and finds him absent, -one does not seek a subordinate, but discusses and settles the matter -with the Sazin-gadaw or the Thugyi-gadaw.[44] It is on record that, -prisoners being brought to a police-station in the absence of any of -the force, the sergeant's wife put them in the cage, and, herself -shouldering a da, did sentry-go till relieved. After these instances -it need hardly be said that in her own household the Burmese woman is -supreme. Her position is equalled only by that of a French mother. - -Girls may not go to monasteries for instruction, so elementary -education is not universal among women as among men. But many girls, -especially of the richer classes, learn to read and write. I think more -women are literate than among other Eastern people. Practice in the -bazaar, at any rate, makes them ready at mental arithmetic. One day I -was holding an amateur examination of a monastic school. The mothers -sat round, admiring the academic gymnastics of their infant prodigies. -Presently I set in Burmese form a variation of the old theme of a -herring and a half. All the boys and all their teachers took slates -and began to figure laboriously. Almost before they had begun the -bazaar women in the circle laughed and gave the answer. One pleasing -characteristic of Burmese ladies, rare among people of warm climates, -may be mentioned. Those who have not lived roughly, but have been -properly housed and tended, preserve a youthful appearance in the most -surprising manner quite to mature age. Very rare among women of all -classes is the aged appearance of comparatively young women. - -An admirable trait is the remarkable absence of serious crime among -women. It is quite rare to find a woman in prison, and I remember no -instance of the execution of a woman. While gaols in Burma provide -quarters for 15,000 men, they can accommodate only 354 women. These -seem to me very remarkable figures. There is no crowding on the women's -side of the gaol. Indeed, if imprisonment of women were abolished in -Burma, no harm would be done. I suppose Burmese women produce fewer -criminals than any other civilized race. Not that they are all angels; -they are apt to be hasty and to offend with their tongues. Sometimes -the bazaar is the scene of actual conflict between angry fair ones. But -on the whole Burmese women are strikingly innocent and well-behaved. -Good mothers and honest wives, light-hearted and sociable, they are -justly held in high esteem. - -Burmese girls enjoy much freedom. You may see them laughing and talking -at the village well, sitting at the domestic loom, walking in the -roads, engaged on household duties. Infant marriage is unknown; no -Burmese girl marries except to please herself. Like other Orientals, -girls come early to maturity, and marriages at fourteen or fifteen are -not uncommon; but as often as not a Burmese maiden does not marry till -she is eighteen or nineteen, or even older. She must not wait too long, -or she will be laughed at as an old maid.[45] The relations between the -sexes are much the same as in Western countries. Boys and girls and men -and women fall in and out of love and break one another's hearts after -the best traditions of romance. Jealousy is a prevalent vice, and many -die for love. - -[Illustration: SNAKE PAGODA.] - -[Illustration: BURMESE GIRL WORSHIPPING.] - -Buddhism recognizes and allows polygamy, and it is incorrect to say -that plurality of wives is uncommon. Several different kinds of wives -are described in the Law of Manu, which contains even an account of the -popular modern character, the wife like a mother. But many, probably -most, men live happily with one wife all their lives. In any case, -the first or principal wife has a distinct and honoured place in the -household. No ceremony of marriage is necessary or, among the mass -of the people, usual. The high Buddhist theory, how different from -the practice of this joyous people, regards life as a mistake, this -world as a vale of tears, transitory existence as the supreme evil, -and bids us all aim at the goal of eternal rest. Therefore no Burmese -monk would bless a marriage; he is more at home at a funeral. Mutual -consent is the sole essential of a marriage. Similarly, divorce is -easy. No Court need intervene. Ordinarily, separation is effected by -arrangement between the parties, sometimes in the presence of the -village elders. Although the Courts have not, perhaps, said the last -word on the law of the subject, it is commonly accepted that, even -without fault on either side, one party to the marriage can insist -on divorce against the wish of the other party to the contract. In -this respect men and women are on equal terms. The safeguard against -capricious divorce is supplied by strict rules for the division of -property at the dissolution of a marriage. In the case mentioned above, -the one who insists on separation must abandon all property to the -reluctant partner. Though so easy, divorce is far less common than -might be expected. Most married people live together till death parts -them. It is not unusual for divorced people to come together again. An -appreciable proportion of the crimes of violence is due to the refusal -of a woman to rejoin her divorced husband. I do not suggest that the -Burmese law and practice of divorce would be suitable in communities of -a more complex type. The comparatively even distribution of wealth, the -fertility of the soil and the scantiness of the population, the absence -alike of great fortunes and of abject, pinching poverty, the kindly -disposition of the race, probably combine with more obscure elements to -render somewhat primitive conditions possible. It is quite certain that -in the stage which Burmese civilization has reached the simple marriage -law works well and produces no obviously ill-effects. It need hardly be -said that there is no bar to the marriage of widows. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -ON THE FRONTIER - - -Early in 1881 I went for a very short term to Myaung-m[)y]a, in the -Delta. The subdivisional officer having suddenly broken down, I was -sent to superintend the taking of the Census. At Myaung-m[)y]a, newly -constituted the headquarters of a subdivision, there was no house. I -lived in a zayat near the Court. Myaung-m[)y]a is now the chief town -of an important district, with a Deputy Commissioner as well as a -Divisional and District Judge. Having finished the Census, I went to -Bassein, riding most of the way over bare rice-fields. Everywhere -I was received with the generous hospitality characteristic of the -Burmese people, and I made many pleasant acquaintances among Thugyis -and villagers. One village headman lives in my memory, a stalwart Karen -who in his youth had been the champion boxer at the Court of Mandalay. -He said so, and he ought to know. Probably his position was not one of -high eminence; Burmese and Karen boxing is a mild game. The challenger -leaps into the ring; slapping his chest, he dances round, bidding all -come on. It is one of the rules of the game that the players should be -equally matched in size and weight. With much difficulty a competitor -is found to fulfil the requirements and accept the challenge. At last -preliminaries are arranged, and the boxers face each other in the ring. -They may kick, and they may slap with open hand, but not with closed -fist. As soon as a drop of blood is drawn from the slightest scratch, -the fight is at an end. Gloves are not worn. This may sound barbarous, -and should be exciting; as a matter of fact, it is very harmless and -extremely dull. In my experience, Karens are better at the game than -Burmans. - -For the rest of my time as subdivisional officer, I stayed at Bassein -as the guest of Colonel William Munro, the Deputy Commissioner, an -officer of the old school who had spent his life in Burma. Colonel -Munro made use of the aptitude presumed to have been acquired in the -Secretariat during the past year and set me to write all his annual -reports on the sole basis of the figures in the appended statements. - -My next charge was the frontier subdivision of Mye-de in the -Tha-yet-m[)y]o district. The headquarter town was Allan-m[)y]o, called -after Major Allan who was Quartermaster-General when the frontier was -demarcated. Allan-m[)y]o lies on the Irrawaddy, just over five miles -north of Tha-yet-m[)y]o,[46] the district headquarters. The distance had -to be more than five miles, or travelling allowance for the journey -would have been inadmissible. Above Allan-m[)y]o were the villages -of Myede and Mobon. Long ago were two young Princes, blind. It was -foretold that if they went down the Irrawaddy they should recover their -sight. So they set out on a raft. Presently, at a place where they -landed, they perceived a glimmering of the sky and exclaimed: "Mo-bon; -there is the sky above." A few miles farther on, landing again, they -saw the ground on which they stood, and cried: "Mye-de; there is -the earth beneath." Thus was the prophecy fulfilled and the places -received their names. Six miles north of the flagstaff on the fort at -Myede, then no longer a place of arms, was the starting-point of the -frontier-line laid down by Lord Dalhousie's personal direction. - -The subdivision was a compact area of about a thousand square miles. -A comparatively barren land, fringed by hills of no great height, -intersected by many watercourses, now beds of dry sand, anon rushing -torrents. These mountain-streams come down with sudden violence. -Often returning from a walk or ride, one sat awaiting the subsidence -of a river bubbling over a sandy bed where an hour or so before one -had passed dry-shod. Sad stories were told of travellers cut off -in mid-stream by a rapid flood and forced to spend the night on a -diminishing islet of sand. As a rule these chaungs[47] were not too -deep to ford on pony-back, though as often as not the pony created -a painful diversion by sitting down unexpectedly and wallowing in -the waves. In these northern wilds were no teeming rice-fields, no -fat fisheries. The people were poor and unsophisticated, raising -scanty rice-crops with the aid of primitive irrigation works, earning -a precarious livelihood by boiling cutch (catechu) or cultivating -taungya[48] on the hillsides. One valuable crop they had, sessamum -(hnan); but the farmer could not reckon on a good hnan season every -year. Scattered among the hills were villages of tame Chins who had -drifted down from their own land in the distant north-west of Upper -Burma. Here were to be seen women with faces tattoed in close blue -lines, according to legend a precaution against the too demonstrative -admiration of their Burmese neighbours. The effect was singularly -unbecoming, and already the younger women were organizing successful -resistance. Chins were excellent settlers, careful and frugal -cultivators, their villages models of neatness and cleanliness as -compared with Burmese villages similarly situate. Much as I love -Burmans, I cannot honestly commend the state of their villages. -Fenced in as a protection against dacoits, the houses closely jammed -together with no respect for order; the paths, especially at the -gateways, trodden into pulpy masses of mud by the trampling oxen; the -ground-floor of each hut a pen where cattle are installed each night; -a Burmese village is an insanitary though often picturesque abode. -Even the odours seem to me less fragrant and pleasing than to some more -enthusiastic votaries. In the simple agricultural conditions of this -primitive community, the revenue work was very light. The only trouble -arose from disputes about irrigation and rights to water. Bench work -in criminal matters was not excessive, and most of the civil cases -were tried by the M[)y]o-ok (township officer). There was ample leisure -for travelling. All the touring was done on Burman ponies, strong and -willing little creatures, averaging about 121/2 and never exceeding 131/2 -hands. At that time it was an article of faith that horses, or even -ponies of Waler or Arab or country-bred classes, could not live in -Burma. We have learnt better in recent years. Most of the riding was -along jungle paths through _in_-tree forest on sandy soil, quite good -going even in the rains; but there were craggy bits in the hills and -quick-sands in the streams. Touring in Burma has always been less -luxurious than camp-life in India. We travelled at every season of the -year, carrying no tents, but finding abundant shelter in monasteries -and zayats, or in frequent police-stations. Everywhere monks and -villagers were hospitable and friendly. Circle Thugyis flourished, men -who held office in succession to a long line of forefathers. Save in -one respect, the people did not seem to have many criminal tendencies. -It was natural to see the stocks near the village gate; it would have -been surprising to see them occupied. - -We marched with Sinbaungwe in Upper Burma. The border was marked by -stone pillars at set intervals and by an actual line cut in the turf, -which had to be inspected periodically and kept in visible repair. -Along the frontier at intervals of four or five miles was a series of -police posts. Picture a quadrangular enclosure girt by a kya-hlan[49] -of stout bamboos interwoven with a bristling array of bamboo-spikes, -quite an efficient protection against a rush if the heavy wooden gate -was closed. Beside the gate stood a watch-tower. In the midst was a -station-house and office, with a barred wooden cage for prisoners. -Round this were grouped the small but sufficient houses of the -constables and native officers. The posts were garrisoned entirely by -local Burmans armed with das[50] and muskets. The policeman of those -days was a picturesque person, in Burmese dress, of a pattern to some -extent dependent on the taste of the Superintendent. A red-striped -paso or longyi[51] marked the servant of the Queen. He wore his hair -long, surmounted by a gaungbaung,[52] and was not expected to pose as -a Gurkha sepoy. With all his many and pleasing virtues and vices, one -quality his warmest admirers have never claimed for the average Burman, -respect for discipline. You may drill Burmans till they look as smart -as soldiers of the line, and you can teach them to shoot excellently. -But so far it has not been found possible successfully to train them in -habits of discipline and method. It was, therefore, never a surprise, -though it excited clamorous if unreasonable wrath, when, on reaching a -police post a few hundred yards from the frontier, one found the great -gate ajar, the watch-tower empty, and the sentry either absent on his -own more or less lawful occasions, or peacefully sleeping with his -musket by his side. This was well enough in quiet times, but when the -war came the result was seen in the desertion of the frontier posts, -and their destruction by roving bands of dacoits. - -The frontier-line started from a pillar on the bank of the Irrawaddy, -on a spot visited by the great Governor-General himself. Hard by, on -each side of the boundary, was a telegraph office. Though the wires -ran from Rangoon to the border, and from the border to Mandalay, there -was not sufficient comity between the Governments to allow the line -to be linked. Every message to and from Upper Burma had to be carried -by hand across the intervening space of a few yards and resignalled. -Our telegraph office was the place where the subdivisional officer -met the Wun[53] of Sinbaungwe for the discussion of frontier affairs. -With that official, who was of about the same standing as myself, -my relations were somewhat stiff, civil but hardly cordial. It is a -mistake to suppose that the relations between Europeans and Burmans are -less intimate now than in earlier days. Twenty years later, in similar -circumstances, I should certainly have asked the Wun to breakfast or -dinner. Then, our meetings were rigidly formal and official. The Wun -used to annoy me by coming into the room wearing Burmese shoes, a -studiously discourteous act.[54] I could think of no better retort than -to keep my hat on during the interview. I dare say it was unworthy, but -I think it was human to feel a thrill of satisfaction when, four or -five years later, my old friend Maung Lat came to me in my office in -Mandalay crouching on the ground in the Burmese attitude of respect. -Maung Lat was a handsome man, of the usual type of Burmese district -officials. After the annexation he took service under our Government -and became a M[)y]o-ok. He did good work, and _felix opportunitate -mortis_, died before he was found out. At our meetings at Myede, -cattle-driving raids across the frontier were among the most frequent -subjects of discussion. This was the darling sin of adventurous -spirits on each side of the border. In a country where cattle are the -most valuable of the farmer's possessions, cattle theft is one of the -crimes which most sorely vexes the magistrate's righteous soul, and is -most rigorously punished. All possible steps were taken to suppress -it, and offenders were visited with stripes and imprisonment. Yet one -could not help recognizing that to drive whole herds of oxen across -the border, to evade police posts, to carry the spoil by unfrequented -paths through the heart of our districts till it could be sold many -miles away, perhaps in a cattle-market under the eyes of officials, -was an attractive and exciting adventure. On the whole, our men had -the worst of the game. If they were caught driving cattle from across -the frontier, they were punished as if they had committed the offence -in British territory, while cattle-thieves from Upper Burma who got -over the line with their plunder were seldom brought to justice. Hence -many wrangles with Maung Lat. Once only I really had the best of the -encounter. I bluffed him into handing back to me on the spot a man who -had been seized on our side and carried off to Sinbaungwe. At the time -the incident seemed to me of international importance. - -The man who had set his stamp on the subdivision was my friend Mr. -Burgess, who spent there the first seven years of his service, greatly -to the benefit of himself and of the people. He made roads, kept the -peace, and impressed the countryside by his zeal for justice and good -order. Even in those dark days, before the light of a Decentralization -Commissions had shone, needless transfers seem to have been avoided. -The township officer, my old and valued friend and colleague, Maung -Tet P[)y]o, held his charge for many years. He was an official of the -very oldest school, not very learned, with only a working knowledge of -codes, but thoroughly acquainted with every inch of his township, and -with every man, woman, and child of his people. He had, of course, -no English. I doubt if he was ever required to pass a departmental -examination. His handwriting was so bad that my Burmese clerks often -had to come to me to decipher it. Maung Tet P[)y]o was a man of courage -and energy, who somewhat shocked the straighter sect of Buddhists by -being an ardent sportsman. Burmans told with admiration that he shot -birds on the wing. He filled the measure of his days, was decorated, -and many years after his retirement died honoured and lamented. -Curiously enough, though so nearly illiterate, he will probably be -remembered as the compiler of a book on the "Customary Laws of the -Chins," a treatise which attracted the attention of Mr. Jardine,[55] -the Judicial Commissioner, and was translated under his direction. -The manuscript was beautifully written out by my clerk, Maung Po, -afterwards a M[)y]o-ok, one of my many Burmese friends, who, I suspect, -was responsible for more than the transcription. - -At Tha-yet-m[)y]o, then a military station of some importance, were -half the 43rd Regiment, still on this side of the frontier, the 44th -Regiment, two battalions of Madras Infantry, and guns. The fort, north -of the town, was duly garrisoned. At Allan-m[)y]o we had a detachment -of British infantry in barracks on the hills east of the station. The -civil officers were the Assistant Superintendent of Police, the late -Mr. B. K. S. MacDermott, afterwards in the Commission, best of comrades -and good fellows, and the Assistant Engineer, Mr. H. W. James, now -Superintending Engineer. A small Customs Office was maintained for the -registration of inland trade. The subdivisional officer was Collector -of Customs, without fee or reward. In that capacity he had the use of -the Customs boat, a stout English gig, very convenient for crossing the -river, here about two miles wide. I have often seen, by the way, an -elephant swim across with just enough of his head above water to seat -the mahout.[56] At Allan-m[)y]o there was a decent little house, close to -the river-bank. When the Irrawaddy rose, the room on the ground-floor -was generally flooded. At the beginning of the rains this room used to -be invaded by swarms of tiny land-crabs, more pleasing visitors than -scorpions. Sometimes for a few days the whole town was under water, and -we went about in boats. - -Myede, traversed by the Pegu Yoma, was pleasanter, but less healthy, -than the Delta. Here I had an attack of malarial fever, of no great -severity, which left me subject to a recurrence for the next fourteen -years or so. After that it seemed to be worn out. We had also in -my time a dreadful outbreak of cholera throughout the subdivision. -Deaths were reckoned by scores, and villages were almost depopulated. -Riding to visit the infected parts, we expected to find the dead -lying unburied in streets and houses; happily the expectation was not -literally fulfilled. - -Speaking from my personal experience, I regard Burma as a healthy -country as compared with other regions of the tropics. Much depends -on the comfort in which one lives. The very bad name which Burma no -doubt has acquired is due to a great extent to the rapid succession -of the three Burmese Wars. After each of these wars, troops, military -and civil officers, and police suffered many hardships and privations, -bivouacking under the stars, and often irregularly fed. In these -conditions sickness ensued, and much mortality and invaliding. For -people properly housed and assured of a square meal at the right time, -Burma is healthy enough. For those who work all the year round in the -jungles of Upper Burma, it is rather sickly. On the whole, Lower Burma, -except Arakan and the tracts bordering on the Yomas, is healthier than -Upper Burma. Cholera and plague are not peculiar to Burma, and are not -more deadly than in other parts of India. - -[Illustration: WHEN THE FLOODS ARE OUT.] - -Of the wealth of insect-life much has been written. Besides mosquitoes, -ants, white, red, and black, flying and merely creeping, abound in -copious variety. Once at least they stopped a ball at Government House, -flying in hosts, dropping their wings and therewith their bodies, and -reducing the floor to a mucous mass. For me, at Allan-m[)y]o, others of -their species eviscerated all my books during my brief absence. At the -beginning of the rains strange creeping, crawling, flying things, slimy -things with legs, appear in swarms. The centipede makes his nest in -your sponge; the scorpion lurks in your boot. Snakes, too, are fairly -numerous and of many kinds, from the hamadryad who chases the wayfarer, -to the Russell's viper who lies dormant in his path, and when trodden -on turns like any worm. Apart from these disadvantages, I have no -complaint to make of Burma as a country to live in. - -While discussing these generalities, I may say a few words about the -climate. Naturally, in so large an extent of country, this is subject -to considerable variations. The Delta is hot and steamy with an -abundant never-failing rainfall, and no cold weather to speak of. Much -of Upper Burma is an arid plain, with frequent hills, hot and dry, but -relieved by a pleasant cold season. Even here we do not seem to get the -constant stifling heat, day and night, of which we hear in the plains -of Northern India. I suppose some people find the heat trying. An old -friend of mine had the habit after dinner of calling his neighbour's -attention to a picture on the wall, while he surreptitiously emptied -his finger-bowl down his (own) neck. In Mandalay for some months of -the wet season (not so very wet) a tearing wind rages, and is apt -to shatter one's nerves. In Lower Burma the persistent rainfall is -impressive. People who have lived there hardly notice that it ever -rains in England. But it seldom pours both morning and evening. -Generally it is possible to get out for exercise either at dawn or at -close of day. - -To return to my subdivision. By an arrangement which seems anomalous, -but which worked well enough, for a substantial part of my sojourn in -Myede I was also Cantonment Magistrate at Tha-yet-m[)y]o. The Commanding -Officer most kindly supervised the establishment which dealt with -hedges and ditches. My duty was to try civil and criminal cases, keep -the accounts, and attend the periodical meetings of the Cantonment -Committee. These were friendly gatherings where, unless the secretary -officiously intervened, many pleasant stories whiled away the tedious -hours. If I worked very hard, my duties on an average occupied about -five or six hours a week, for which I drew an allowance of Rs. 200 a -month. I spoil no one's market by revealing the existence of this fat -sinecure; the stipend was reduced by an economical Commission in 1887, -and has since been abolished. My Deputy Commissioners were Colonel -Horatio Nelson Davies, who had been Sir Arthur Phayre's secretary, my -friend R. H. Pilcher, and Captain (now Colonel) W. F. H. Grey, from -all of whom I received much kindness. Nor can I forbear to mention the -hospitality of Captain William Cooke,[57] whose house was always open -to me, and with whom the friendship begun in those distant days still -flourishes. The chaplain, the Rev. J. D. Briscoe, one of the best of -men, was also among my allies. He died, most sincerely mourned, in the -flower of his age, I believe from the effects of asceticism practised -from no doctrinal motives, but for the sake of example to the soldiers -among whom he worked. - -Some excitement was caused by the coming of a Burmese embassy -accredited to the Viceroy. Among them was the Kyaukmyaung Atwin- -Wun,[58] son-in-law, of the Taingda Mingyi, whom afterwards I -knew well at Mandalay. Mr. Pilcher, who was deputed to accompany them -to Simla, had met them all frequently when Assistant Resident at the -Burmese Court. But though he was distinguished from his fellows by -a flowing beard, they declined to recognize him, professing that in -their eyes all kalas were alike. Robert Pilcher had other attributes -besides his beard which might have commended him to Burmese officials. -His knowledge of their language was scholarly and profound, while his -sympathy with the people was infinite. Nothing that concerned them -was alien from him. An instance may be given. Once in after-years he -was with a column on march. Halting the column, he sat down by the -wayside to get some information from a Burman passer-by. Presently the -patient Commanding Officer asked gently if the information had been -extracted. "I am so sorry," was the reply; "I forgot all about it. He -was telling me such an interesting story about his aunt." The Mission -was hospitably received and entertained at Simla, but returned without -having effected any useful purpose. Which reminds me of the Burman -schoolboy who, asked to translate _mortuus est re infecta_, ventured to -reply: "He died of an infectious disease." - -But by far the most thrilling incident of my stay at Allan-m[)y]o was -the visit of Sir Frederick Roberts. He came as Commander-in-Chief of -the Madras Army, the troops in Burma being in the Madras command.[59] -Attended by his staff, among whom were General Godfrey Clerk,[60] -Captain Neville Chamberlain,[61] and Captain G. Pretyman.[62] His -Excellency came to inspect the frontier stations, and marched from -Allan-m[)y]o to Toungoo across the Yoma,[63] which parts the Tha-yet-m[)y]o -and Toungoo districts. Fresh from the glories of Afghanistan and the -march to Kandahar, though then but midway in his illustrious career, -Sir Frederick Roberts was a hero in all men's eyes. It was my happy -lot to make arrangements for his march and to accompany him through my -subdivision. Thus as a young man I had the privilege of experiencing -the unrivalled charm and personal attraction or this great soldier. -To the end of my days in the East I have seen the eyes of old native -officers light up at the mention of Lord Roberts Sahib. Not Nelson -himself inspired more affection and enthusiasm in officers and men who -served and followed him. - -At the close of this year, being sent to represent the Tha-yet-m[)y]o -District, I saw the first of many Viceroys who visited Burma, Lord -Ripon. I need hardly say that I was too junior to be brought into -immediate contact with His Excellency or his staff. Mr. Primrose[64] -was private secretary, and Major Evelyn Baring,[65] Finance Member, -was of the Viceroy's party. The most obvious result of Major Baring's -visit was the stoppage of most of our remunerative jail industries. -The order for discontinuance was of general application throughout -India; Burma, still an unsophisticated place, under a ruler who had -learned to obey, was the only Province which made a serious effort -to carry the order into effect. The usual festivities were held in -honour of the Viceroy's visit, a ball, a levee, and a garden-party. -The most picturesque incident that lingers in my mind is the posting -of venerable Burmese officers, in fur coats, clasping to their -breasts silver-mounted das, in the corridors of Government House, as -a-thet-daw-saung[66] to Their Excellencies. - -At Tha-yet-m[)y]o, for the first and last time, and only for a few days, -I held charge of a district as acting Deputy Commissioner. For various -reasons there was a temporary lack of senior officers in the district. -For a short period I was not only Deputy Commissioner, but also -Cantonment Magistrate, Superintendent of Police, and Superintendent of -the Jail. I did not succeed in drawing the pay of all these offices. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -THE SECRETARIAT: THE LAST SUBDIVISION - - -Early in 1883 the acting Chief Commissioner, Mr. Crosthwaite,[67] -very considerately gave me the option of coming to Rangoon as Junior -Secretary. In those days it was usual for officers, especially young -officers, to go where they were sent, without previous reference and -without room for remonstrance. Nearly twenty years passed before I was -again consulted as to my posting. Recently a different practice seems -to have developed. Although from a financial point of view the move to -Rangoon was ruinous, we decided to risk it and went down. Except for -two brief intervals, I stayed in the Secretariat till early in 1891. -Altogether I spent in the office eleven years, a period surpassed -only, I think, by my friend Mr. C. G. Bayne.[68] In 1883 Mr. Symes was -Secretary, Mr. Burgess being on leave. - -Life was much the same as when we were here two years before. Rangoon -was still a pleasant social place. We rode in the mornings, and played -polo or tennis in the afternoons, gave a good many hours to dancing and -whist, went to the races twice a year, and in the rains to hunts once a -week. Some were even so energetic as to play tennis two or three times -a week before breakfast, a practice which our less hardy successors -have abandoned. We drove to office and out to dinner in dogcarts. Not -in those days did the Junior Secretary or his wife regard a brougham -as indispensable. Among the pleasantest meetings were hunt finishes, -hospitable gatherings where, at the end of the run, riders and their -friends were rewarded with pegs and encouraged to dance. Jests and -laughter filled the air. The cheerful subaltern leant over the veranda, -encouraging a reluctant rider at the last show-jump: "Give him his -head, sir; can't you see the pony wants to jump?" Poor Cockeram; one -of the first to fall in the guerilla warfare in Upper Burma. The -lotteries on the races were still fairly select meetings of friends and -acquaintances. In 1885 I attended them for the last time, and bandied -quips with a famous special correspondent. In reply to his remark that -we were making history, I made the obvious and unluckily too true -reply that we left that to him. I am still somewhat surprised that he, -an Irishman, should have thought it necessary gravely to explain the -origin and meaning of his observation. - -The work in the Secretariat was hard enough, but not so overwhelming -as in later times. There was a staff of good old-fashioned clerks, -most of whom had been in the office many years, whose experience -compensated the somewhat primitive methods inherited from days when -Sir Arthur Phayre himself went daily to the Secretariat in Godwin -Road. The office was quite efficient, bearing the impress of three -excellent Secretaries, Major Street, Mr. Burgess, and Mr. Symes, each -of the finest quality in his own way. Mr. Crosthwaite, whose name is -associated with Burma more intensely than that of anyone save Sir -Arthur Phayre, acted as Chief Commissioner for a year in 1883-84, -during Mr. Bernard's absence on leave. - -About this time India was violently agitated by the Ilbert Bill. In -all parts of India the bulk of the magisterial work is done by native -officers. Living in places more or less remote were many Europeans, -planters and others, whom it was thought undesirable to subject to -the jurisdiction of Indians. The law therefore ordained that only -magistrates themselves Europeans and of proved experience should -exercise powers in criminal cases over persons classed as European -British subjects. This was, I venture to say, a wise and necessary -provision. By the Ilbert Bill it was proposed to abolish this -distinction and to place Europeans and natives on the same footing in -respect of criminal procedure. It was a doctrinaire proposal of the -worst kind, subversive of the prestige of the ruling race, and quite -uncalled for by the circumstances and exigencies of the time. One -thing only can be said in its favour. It was offered as a voluntary -boon, not as a concession to seditious clamour and agitation. By all -classes of Europeans the proposal was vehemently opposed. In many -parts, especially in Bengal, passionate excitement was stirred up. -The Viceroy, believed to have been the only begetter of the Bill, -seated on the Olympian heights of Simla, failed to realize the extent -and force of the opposition to his project. Not till he came down to -Calcutta did he understand the situation. In the capital there was -enough visible ferment to indicate the seething passions beneath. Wild -stories are told of the intentions of the European community, had the -Bill been pressed. If Lord Ripon had not come to Calcutta, he would -have continued in ignorance, surrounded only by officials, unblest -by the saving grace of contact with living public opinion. In Burma -alone among the Provinces of India, the subject failed to kindle a -spark of vital interest. There were few Europeans scattered through -the country likely to be affected by the proposed change in the law. -And, for reasons which it would not be difficult to analyze, Europeans -in Burma have seldom been very clamorous in expression. By some of the -more ardent spirits, however, it was felt that Rangoon ought not to -be left entirely out of the movement. After much delay, a meeting to -demonstrate and protest against the Bill was convened at Mr. Fowle's -new Town Hall for one fine Saturday afternoon. On the morning of the -appointed day, the _Rangoon Gazette_ published in advance an account of -the meeting, with the names of the speakers very thinly disguised, and -with parodies of the speeches they were expected to deliver. The plot -was hatched in the Secretariat. Though I was _pars exigua_, the account -was mainly written by Mr. Bayne. The secret was never disclosed, and -the incident has no doubt long ago been forgotten. At the time our -_jeu d'esprit_ had a _succes fou_. This we knew by the wealth of abuse -heaped on our unknown heads by correspondents of the rival newspaper, -the _Rangoon Times_. Further ill-luck attended the meeting. Just before -it opened, news came that a compromise had been effected, and that -substantial modifications were to be made in the Bill. The meeting was -held, and speeches, much as we had foretold, were delivered, but as the -measure was already dead the demonstration fell rather flat. - -For two or three months in 1884 I acted as Revenue Secretary and -Director of Agriculture. In that capacity I signed and issued the first -of the annual forecasts of the exportable surplus of the rice-crop. -Candour compels me to confess that the signature was all that I -contributed to this or any later forecast. For the first Mr. Bernard -was entirely responsible. With some misgiving he raised the figure to -975,000 tons. These forecasts have been issued year by year ever since, -and on the average have been so close to the actuals as to evoke the -expressed admiration of the mercantile community. The latest forecast -predicted a surplus of over 2,600,000 tons, a remarkable increase in -less than thirty years. - -By another stroke of luck I acted as Secretary for three months early -in 1885 in place of Mr. Symes on privilege leave. Later in the year, -owing to Mr. Burgess's return for a short time to the Secretariat, I -had my last experience of subdivisional work. M[)y]anaung, just above -the Delta, but not in the dry tract, was one of the most charming -subdivisions. The Deputy-Commissioner, Mr. A. M. B. Irwin,[69] was most -able and genial, an admirable chief whose knowledge of district work -has never been surpassed. These months were pleasant and restful after -the somewhat strenuous life of the Secretariat. The duties were light, -the house comfortable, the riding good. Now a railway runs through the -subdivision, but till recently all travelling was by unmetalled roads, -jungle paths, and along the embankment which restrained the river. Two -township officers, one at Kanaung, one at Kyangin, shared the ordinary -work. - -Among the reforms introduced by Mr. Bernard was the selection of a -certain proportion of M[)y]o-oks by competitive examination. M[)y]o-oks, it -will be remembered, are officers, generally natives of the Province, -who have charge of townships. Previously they had been appointed by -Government solely on the recommendation of Commissioners and other -high officers. Mr. Bernard devised a system combining nomination and -competition. But a great many direct appointments were still made. The -system is still in force except that recently I threw the competitive -examination open to all young men of good health and character. On the -whole the plan has worked well. A great many of the M[)y]o-oks appointed -after examination have proved themselves very valuable officers. I -agree that many of our best M[)y]o-oks and Extra Assistant Commissioners -have been men of character and integrity, well educated in their own -language, but hardly likely to secure appointments by open competition. -No one appreciates these men more highly than I do. But the scheme -of administration becomes yearly more complex. And in an increasing -number of offices a good knowledge of English is essential. By the -competitive system, if a high standard is maintained, some of the best -among the educated youth are attracted to Government service, while -the reservation of a number of posts for direct appointment keeps -open the door for those who are distinguished by birth and character -rather than by academic aptitude. The objection that under the open -competitive system we have no guarantee of candidates' social standing -has very little weight in Burma. It is a country where fraternity and -equality are realities, where class distinctions are of little value. -One of my M[)y]o-oks was of the old school. Formerly a pleader, he had -earned his appointment by being instrumental in the capture of the -Myingun Prince.[70] The other was a competitioner, and not perhaps -a good example of my thesis. A man of good education who had been -a schoolmaster, he seems to have missed his vocation by becoming a -Judge and magistrate. His wife, a clever bustling woman, was thought -to supply some of her husband's deficiencies. It was said, probably -untruly, that on occasion she would come into Court and stir up the -peons[71] and punka-pullers. The M[)y]o-ok's house was a pleasant place -to visit. He had two charming little daughters of tender years, who, -in a most engaging way, used to stand up and recite to visitors "Lord -Ullin's Daughter," and other English verses. My friend afterwards -resumed his original profession, which no doubt suited him better. His -son is an officer of great ability and distinction. - -Recalling my quiet life at M[)y]anaung, I am reminded of some instances -of Burmese superstition. Some fishermen of that place before starting -work made the customary offerings to nats. One of them placed his -offering of rice in a dish from which the dogs were fed. His companions -exclaimed at this impious act and warned him of the consequences. -That day, when they were all in their boats, a monstrous crocodile -appeared. "See," said the fishermen, "the result of your wickedness." -The offender took no heed of the warning, but next day repeated his -insult to the nats. So he filled the cup of his iniquity. That morning, -in the midst of the fishing, the crocodile again appeared. This time -the contemner of nats was knocked out of his boat and perished in the -waters. - -Burmans are firm believers in ghosts, know well the danger of passing -graveyards after dark, and are convinced of the existence of good and -evil spirits. I remember one curious case in which superstitious terror -had a lamentable issue. In the middle of the rains a man was cutting -grass in a field. The rain pattered noisily on his kamauk.[72] Suddenly -he heard close behind him what sounded like an unearthly voice. In a -panic he turned hastily and made a cut with his sickle-shaped knife, -unhappily with fatal effect. The speaker was a harmless villager, whose -voice, by evil chance, was singularly gruff. In a moment, recognizing -the catastrophe, the grass-cutter gave his best attention to the victim -of his fear, but in vain. The police quaintly reported that the man -had cut in the direction of the sound, "thinking it was a devil, but -admitted that he was mistaken." I am glad to say that we were not so -pedantic as to bring the grass-cutter to trial for his misadventure -which he sincerely regretted. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE TAKING OF MANDALAY - - -Mr. Burgess having gone to act as Commissioner, I was recalled to the -Secretariat in some haste, in my former capacity as Junior Secretary. -It was in the midst of the excitement of a probable rupture with Upper -Burma. Our relations with the Court of Mandalay had long ceased to be -cordial. So long ago as 1879 our representative had been withdrawn, -and such communications as were necessary with the Burmese Government -had been conducted by letter. In the absence of the Resident matters -gradually drifted from bad to worse. British subjects, travellers -and traders from Lower Burma, were subjected to insult and violence -by local officials, and representations to the central authority -demanding redress were generally fruitless. In contravention of the -express terms of the Treaty of 1867, monopolies were created to -the detriment of trade both in Upper and Lower Burma. Owing to the -weakness and corruption of the Burmese Government, society became -thoroughly disorganized, so that turbulent tracts on the frontier -became a standing menace to the peace of our districts. At the same -time, the Burmese Government showed a marked and persistent anxiety -to enter into alliances with foreign Powers, in such a manner and to -such an extent as to give ground for apprehension that grave political -trouble might result. While the Indian Government was unrepresented in -Mandalay, representatives of France and Italy were welcomed, and two -separate embassies were sent to Europe, one under the guise of a merely -commercial mission, for the purpose of contracting new and if possible -close alliances with European Powers. Neither of these missions visited -England or showed any desire to win the friendship of representatives -of the British Government at the Courts to which the Burmese envoys -were accredited. Throughout the reign of King Mindon, young scions of -families of leading men about the Court were sent to England, France, -and Italy to study the language and manners of European countries. In -the reign of his successor this policy was continued, with the studied -omission of England.[73] - -Having no Resident, we had to find means of keeping ourselves informed -of events in Mandalay. One of our correspondents was Mr. A. E. -Rawlings, the Postmaster, who for a moderate subsidy wrote periodical -news-letters to the Secretary. He sent much useful and interesting -matter. There was also another correspondent whose reports were -extraordinarily accurate and instructive, and from whose keen vision no -secret transaction was hidden. - -It has always seemed to me that the proximate cause of the annexation -of Upper Burma was the patriotic and enlightened Minister known as -the Kinwun Mingyi. Some years before, this gentleman had travelled -in Europe as head of a commercial mission, and had been received -with great distinction. His progress was a triumph; insignia of -Continental orders, illuminated addresses of English manufacturing -towns, were showered upon him as if he had been Minister of the Great -Mogul. To us who realize the insignificance of the King of Burma as -a potentate, these proceedings savour of the ridiculous. During this -visit the Kinwun Mingyi obtained some superficial knowledge of European -politics and of the relations between the Great Powers. Many years -later, when there was no longer a British Resident at Mandalay, and -when the path seemed clear of obstacles, the Mingyi conceived the -ingenious plan of contracting political relations and making treaties -with several States, such as France, Germany, and Italy. The subtle -intention was to play off one against another, so that, while none -would have predominant influence, all would be interested in opposing -and thwarting the ambitious designs of Great Britain. There was some -statesmanship in the project, but not quite enough; and with the best -intentions the Mingyi compassed the downfall of the dynasty of which he -was a devoted servant. By the autumn of 1885 negotiations with France -had made good progress. A French Consul was appointed to Mandalay, and -plans for the foundation of a French bank were initiated. A treaty was -provisionally concluded, though never formally ratified. The ostensible -cause of the rupture with the Burmese Court was the imposition of -an enormous fine on the Bombay Burma Trading Corporation, a British -company carrying on extensive operations in Upper Burma forests. -Probably in any case the British Government would have intervened, on -account of the treatment received by the Corporation. But the ultimate -cause of intervention was the apprehension lest France or some other -European Power should establish a preponderant influence in Upper -Burma, and create a situation which would render our position in Lower -Burma intolerable. - -When I got back to Rangoon, the preliminary correspondence with India -and Mandalay was starting. It was all desperately urgent and deadly -secret, and the Chief Commissioner and his Secretary were more than -fully occupied. The Burmese answer to our first representation was -deliberately curt and discourteous. Under the orders of the Government -of India an ultimatum was therefore sent to the King of Burma. He -was required to suspend the execution of the decree against the -Corporation, to receive at Mandalay an envoy from the Viceroy with -a view to the settlement of the matter in issue, and for the future -to permit the residence at the capital of an agent of the Indian -Government, who should be received and treated with the respect due -to the Government which he represented. It was further intimated that -the Burmese Government would be required to regulate its external -relations in accordance with advice of the Government of India, and to -afford facilities for opening up British trade with China.[74] - -The ultimatum was despatched on the 22nd of October, 1885. It was taken -by Captain Cooper, of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, on the steamer -_Ashley Eden_, which went specially to Mandalay for the purpose. An -answer was required by the 10th of November. In default of receiving a -reply Captain Cooper was instructed to leave Mandalay on a fixed date. -The mission was of a hazardous nature. Captain Cooper discharged it -with intrepidity and skill. He remained with his steamer fires banked, -and he returned bearing the haughty and uncompromising answer of the -Burmese Government. As he passed down the river he ran the gauntlet -of the fire of forts on the bank. Such was the Burmese notion of the -courtesy due to envoys. The answer was received in Rangoon on the 9th -of November. Two days earlier the King of Burma issued a proclamation -calling on his subjects to rally round him to resist the unjust demands -of the British Government, and expressing his determination to efface -these heretic foreigners and conquer and annex their country.[75] - -When the ultimatum was considered by the Burmese Court and Government, -there seems to have been a division of counsel. The two highest -officers of State were two Mingyis, the virtuous and temperate Kinwun, -the corrupt and blood-thirsty Taingda. The Queen, Supaya-lat, was -certainly present when the situation was discussed. The Kinwun advised -moderation and diplomacy; the Taingda was for blood and fury. The -Queen's voice was for resistance. She had the unexampled impertinence -to tell the Kinwun Mingyi, a man of mature and reverend years, her -father's trusted Councillor, that when she had beaten the English she -would dress him in a tamein[76] and send him to live among the women. -The counsels of unreason prevailed. The proclamation was issued, and -futile resistance was undertaken. - -Meanwhile, in anticipation of an unfavourable reply to the ultimatum, -preparations for the advance on Mandalay had been rapidly made. The -speed with which the expedition was organized and set in motion was -almost incredible. The first orders for the mobilization of troops -were issued by Government of India on or about the 19th of October; -the expeditionary force crossed the frontier on the 14th of November, -1885. The force was of all arms, including some Madras Cavalry and -some mounted infantry. Except the detachment of the Rangoon Volunteer -Rifles, which patriotically volunteered for active service, all the -troops were sent from India. For the promptitude of the despatch from -Rangoon, the chief credit is due to Mr. Bernard himself, who placed -all the resources of his position and all his personal energy and -experience at the disposal of the military authorities. Every day saw -him on the river-bank supervising and urging on the preparations. -Much praise is due also to the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, which -made every vessel of their fleet available and carried the whole -expedition. Of course, this was not all pure patriotism on the part -of the Company; but the service rendered by them was of inestimable -value, and contributed largely to the brilliant success of the -operations. The command of the force was entrusted to Major-General -Harry Prendergast, V.C.,[77] a most gallant and distinguished officer, -who had already served in Burma, and was thus specially qualified for -the appointment. Already, in the pursuit of intelligence, he had even -penetrated into Upper Burma in peaceful guise. In command of brigades -were Brigadier-General G. S. White, V.C.,[78] Brigadier-General Norman, -and Brigadier-General Forde; while the staff included Major W. P. -Symons,[79] then at the beginning of a glorious career. The troops were -specially enjoined to treat the people of the country with kindness -and consideration. One precept directed that in addressing a Burman -the soldier should say "Kinbya," not "Hey, Johnny!" A book of Burmese -phrases, laboriously compiled by a gentleman unacquainted with the -language, was profusely distributed. It is pleasant to be able to -record, with perfect honesty, that never did army of occupation behave -with more restraint and moderation, or more readily win the esteem and -respect of a subject people. - -The Chief Civil and Political Officer with the expedition was Colonel -E. B. Sladen[80] of the Burma Commission. Four young officers Mr. -R. Phayre, C.S.,[81] Mr. A. S. Fleming, C.S., Captain G. S. Eyre, -of the Commission, and Mr. G. G. Collins accompanied the force as -civil officers. Mr. R. C. Stevenson, also of the police, one of the -foremost Burmese scholars, was attached to General Prendergast as chief -interpreter. - -On the 14th November the frontier was crossed, on the 17th Minhla, -on the 23rd Pagan, on the 25th Myingyan were successively occupied. -Except at Minhla, where the fort which still stands on the river-bank -was not taken without a brisk fight, scarcely any resistance was -encountered. And as the flotilla moved up the river, even in Mandalay -the determination to resist began to fail. Just before the expedition -reached Ava the Kinwun Mingyi arrived, and after some negotiation -arranged the unconditional surrender of the capital and of the Royal -Family. On the 26th and 27th November the forts at Ava and Sagaing -were given up, and the troops at Ava laid down their arms. On the -28th the flotilla moored off the town, and General Prendergast -occupied Mandalay. The city and the palace were surrounded, while -Colonel Sladen, with the cool courage which was his best distinction, -entered the palace alone, and remained there for a day and a night, -settling the details of the King's surrender. Next day, in a little -summer-house in the palace garden, King Thebaw gave himself up to the -victorious General, and the dynasty of Alaungpaya ruled no more. After -all, it was a mushroom growth, having held sway for little more than -130 years.[82] The King and his two Queens, with their mother and her -eldest daughter, were driven through the streets of Mandalay in little -bullock-drawn carriages, the only vehicles available. They were placed -on board the steamer _Thooreah_, and conveyed to Rangoon. The flimsy -little summer-house fell into decay, and no longer exists. The tablet -which marks its site, and commemorates the most striking event in its -history, will doubtless remain as long as the British flag flies over -Mandalay. - -The first report of the King's surrender reached Rangoon in a -non-official telegram. By luck or good management we were enabled to -telegraph the tidings simultaneously to the Secretary of State, and to -save his Lordship from the shock of receiving the first intimation of -the fall of Mandalay from his morning paper. Of course, the telegraph -line was interrupted. This message came from Tha-yet-m[)y]o, brought -thither by the King's steamer. - -As the junior officer in the Secretariat, I was told off to board the -_Thooreah_ on her arrival. I was thus the first officer in Rangoon to -see the ex-King and his Queens. King Thebaw was in appearance a Burman -of very ordinary type. He looked neither dissipated nor cruel; nor did -he show any emotion or feeling of his melancholy position. His somewhat -heavy features were unmistakably those of the House of Alaungpaya. -Both he and his elder sister (who died not long ago) closely resembled -the familiar picture of Mindon Min. Queen Supaya-lat's features were -more finely marked than is usual with Burmese ladies. She bore no -appearance of special depravity, but she certainly looked a little -shrew. The legend of Supaya-lat is that she was a monster of cruelty -and wickedness, and that she was mainly responsible for all acts of -State during her husband's reign. From all that I heard in Mandalay, -where I had many sources of information, for the most part unfriendly -to the ex-Queen, I believe that both her wickedness and her influence -have been much exaggerated. She seems to have been of a jealous -temper, and to have checked any inclination on the part of her husband -to follow the footsteps of Mindon Min. Doubtless it went hard with any -maid who attracted the King's attention. On one of the golden doors of -the palace used to be shown bloodstains, marks of a little hand, signs -of the tragic end of a Princess who had incurred the Queen's wrath. -(I am aware of the learned explanation of these marks, but the legend -is far more interesting.) Beyond this there is no credible evidence -of her cruelty, nor is it well established that she ruled the State. -Clearly she wielded some influence; but apart from the story of her -speech to the Kinwun Mingyi, the most arrogant action imputed to her -was that she used to have her meals before the King. Of course, this -was very unusual and unseemly for a Burmese woman of any class. It -hardly shows that she was paramount in the direction of the kingdom. -The royal exiles were transferred to the R.I.M.S. _Clive_, and, after -remaining for a few days in Rangoon, were taken to Madras. They were -finally transferred to Ratnagiri in the Bombay Presidency, where -King Thebaw and Supaya-lat still live. The poor little second Queen, -of whom nothing, good or bad, has ever been heard, died last year. -An irresponsible journalist lately suggested that Ratnagiri was an -unsuitable place of abode for these fallen dignitaries. It is one of -the best places that could be chosen. They and their family have been -quite healthy. As they cannot be allowed to return to Burma, they are -likely to be as contented there as elsewhere. Two of the Ministers -and a few retainers were with difficulty persuaded to accompany their -fallen master. The Ministers speedily returned to Mandalay. So did most -of the retainers after one little Chin maid had given some trouble by -running up a tree and declining to come down, because Supaya-lat, whose -temper misfortune may have sharpened, had smacked her. - -The rapidity with which the conquest of the Burmese King was effected -must always be a subject of astonishment. Many times in the previous -wars Burmese soldiers had offered stout resistance, fighting fiercely -behind stockades. That the martial spirit still survived was abundantly -shown afterwards in the years of desultory fighting described in Sir -Charles Crosthwaite's classic history of the pacification of Burma. -The truth is, the central Government was rotten at the core, corrupt -and inefficient and singularly impecunious. The balance found in the -Treasury at Mandalay was about L5,000, not a very large sum to finance -a war. There was no organized Burmese army, with captains versed in the -art of war, capable of meeting in the field disciplined troops under -trained leaders. But the main cause of the downfall of the Burmese -kingdom, with hardly a blow struck in its defence, was no doubt the -speed with which preparations for the advance were made, and the skill, -swiftness, and resolution with which General Prendergast directed the -progress to Mandalay. If a little more time had been allowed to the -Burmese, the ascent would have been more arduous, though not less -effectual. The celerity with which the operations were carried out is -probably paralleled in history only by the advance of the Balkan armies -towards Constantinople. - -While opposition to the main force was feeble and faint-hearted, at the -outset of hostilities reprisals were taken on Englishmen employed in -the forests or on the river. It was, indeed, only by the humanity or -prudence of some local officials that any of these isolated Englishmen -escaped. A Thandawzin[83] was sent to deal with Bombay-Burma men on -the Chindwin. Four of them were barbarously murdered. The murderer -was Thandawzin So Bon, who disappeared immediately. I sought him -diligently, but in vain, for nearly twenty-five years. If he still -lives, this record of his name may yet bring to him the reward of his -crime. Four other forest men were saved by the intervention of the -Wun[84] of Mingin. - -Upper Burma had long been the refuge of persons who had pressing -reasons for leaving Lower Burma; in fact, as one departmental Report -said, it was a "perfect Arcadia." Not only thieves, robbers, dacoits, -and murderers, but the bailiff who had lost at Komi the proceeds of -Court sales, the Postmaster who was short in his collections, the clerk -who had stolen witnesses' subsistence money, all found an asylum across -the border. Demands for extradition were made, but practically never -with any effect. The Wun of Mingin was among many who felt it necessary -to take measures for their security if, as seemed likely, Upper -Burma came under British rule. Long years ago, this astute man had -been Akunwun[85] of the rich district of Rangoon or Hanthawaddy. One -morning, having packed on elephants the contents of the Treasury, some -lakhs of rupees, he fled with his plunder across the frontier. There, -with his wicked prize, he was a man of importance, obtained office, -and in process of time was placed in charge of Mingin on the Chindwin -River. Partly moved by humanity, for he was as kindly a man as ever -scooped a Treasury, partly, I surmise, because he was shrewd enough -to foresee the downfall of the Burmese Government, he protected the -Bombay-Burma men who fell into his hands, saved them from ill-usage and -death, and made them over to a small British force which early visited -the Chindwin. The Wun's humanity was suitably rewarded. His delinquency -was condoned and he became a M[)y]o-ok. Though he was believed always -to be tainted with the corrupt habits of Upper Burma, he served us -moderately well. The fact that he had saved the lives of our countrymen -was never forgotten and would have covered many sins. Finally, he died -in his bed, up to the day of his death in receipt of a pension from -Government. I knew very well both him and his wife, who had accompanied -him in his flight from Rangoon. Naturally, we did not in plain words -discuss that incident. But reference to early days was sometimes -made, and the old lady admitted that the Wun had been frivolous and -light-hearted in his youth. When I knew him, he was grave and reverend. -This is not the only instance in which persons guilty of past offences -in Lower Burma purged their guilt by good service in troubled times and -were received back into Government employ. I found it convenient to -keep in mind their histories. - -Another case of the cruel treatment of Europeans was the seizure -of a Flotilla steamer at Moda, between Mandalay and Bhamo, and the -imprisonment and ill-treatment of crew and officers. Daily was Captain -Redman led out as if to execution. He, too, escaped by some friendly -intervention, or the hesitation of his captors to proceed to the last -extremity. He was, however, very badly used. The two local officers -responsible for these barbarities were brought down to Mandalay, fined -and imprisoned, and publicly whipped by the Chief Commissioner's order. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -EARLY DAYS AT MANDALAY - - -As speedily as possible, Mr. Bernard went up to Mandalay, leaving -Lower Burma practically under the administration of the Secretary, Mr. -Symes. He went up in the old R.I.M.S. _Irrawaddy_, embarking at Prome. -With him were a few civil and police officers, destined with those -who had accompanied the expedition to form the nucleus of the Civil -Administration. Colonel T. Lowndes,[86] Inspector-General of Police, -Captain C. H. E. Adamson,[87] of the Commission, Mr. G. M. S. Carter, -and Mr. M. J. Chisholm, of the Police, were on board, and I had the -luck to go as Junior Secretary. We landed at Minhla and inspected the -fort, now garrisoned by Bengal Infantry, and the scene of the fight; -at Myingyan, where we saw marks of our cannonade; at Pakokku, where -the Chief Commissioner was received by the M[)y]othugyi-gadaw,[88] a -lady of large bulk, of high spirit, and of cheerful humour, who was -administering the town and district in the name of her son. The -old lady was extremely affable, and professed loyalty to the new -Government. To the best of her ability, I believe she carried out her -engagement. Her position was quite in accordance with the practice in -Burma, where, as already stated, women take a prominent part in public -affairs. She survived for some years, and was always our good friend. - -On the 15th of December, 1885, Mr. Bernard arrived at Mandalay, and, -with his staff, took up his quarters in the Palace where Sir Harry -Prendergast and his officers were already installed. Mr. Bernard -occupied a set of rooms behind the Eastern Audience Hall. Colonel -Lowndes and I shook down in some good masonry buildings hard by, which -had been used as waiting-rooms by the Ministers coming to transact -business with the King. My abode was immediately under the wooden -tower in the south-east corner of the palace, whence Queen Supaya-lat -is said, the legend is apocryphal, to have viewed the march of the -British force from the shore to the city. Behind me was the shed of -the White Elephant, which had died a few days after the occupation, -feeling, no doubt, that his use was at an end. Opposite, fronted by -a pillared terrace, in the midst of which played a fountain, was -a charming pavilion faced with white stucco, of modern design and -construction, used by the King as a morning-room. Mr. Bernard adopted -it for the same purpose. We were all most kindly made honorary members -of the Headquarter Mess, established in spacious rooms adjacent to the -Royal Theatre. There, with the chief military officers, we dined every -night, and often played a quiet rubber. For breakfast and luncheon, -during his stay in Mandalay, Mr. Bernard kept open house for his staff. -Mr. Bernard's breakfasts were refreshing interludes in the busy round -of official work. Round that hospitable board often sat welcome guests, -visitors of distinction, officers passing through Mandalay bringing a -breath of the old world to our new heritage. From time to time every -member of the Viceroy's Council came to see the latest kingdom added to -the Empire. Perhaps the visitor who made the deepest impression was Sir -George Chesney, Military Member of Council, a man of wide culture and -literary distinction, moving on a higher plane than the ordinary Indian -official. (No offence to the ordinary official, honest man, whose stock -of late years has unjustly depreciated.) Sir George Chesney seemed -to have a wider range, a more extensive outlook; his premature death -deprived the world of a statesman. In very early days came to Mandalay, -as the Chief Commissioner's guests, some charming Americans, among -them a lady of exceptional grace and beauty. Warned by secretaries -and aides-de-camp that she could not possibly go to Mandalay, where -conditions of war still obtained, she is said to have gone pouting to -the great Lord Sahib, by whom she was assured that she should certainly -go, and that her path should be strewn with roses. 'Twere churlish not -to believe this pretty story. My impression is that the men of the -party tried to buy the Palace as it stood, and succeeded in acquiring -a gilded sentry-box. I may wrong them. - -Most strange and almost incredible it seemed to range at will the -halls and corridors, where hardly a fortnight before the Lord of many -White Elephants had kept his State. The Palace was in exactly the -same condition as when occupied by the Burmese Court. As a Burman -official said, in another place, the scene was the same, the actors -only were changed. Barbarous Byzantine mirrors of colossal size still -lined the walls; a motley heap of modern toys, French clocks and -fans, mechanical singing birds, and the like, mingled with lovely -specimens of Burmese carving, gold and silver and lacquered trays and -boxes, forming a heterogeneous collection characteristic of degenerate -taste. Rooms so lately tenanted by King, Queens, and their butterfly -attendants, aglow with light and colour, were now occupied as sober -offices and quarters. Khaki uniforms, boots, and the ringing of spurs -replaced gay pasos and tameins and soft pattering of naked feet. The -Palace, it must be confessed, was a mass of somewhat tawdry buildings, -mostly of wood and of no great antiquity, desecrated by corrugated -iron roofs, yet of interest as a unique specimen of Burmese domestic -architecture. Perhaps the most striking features were the great halls -of audience, supported by mighty pillars of teak, red and golden, the -several Royal thrones often described, and the P[)y]athat, the graceful -terraced spire surmounting the eastern throne-room, which travellers -have been taught to call the Centre of the Universe. The title was -invented by an enterprising journalist, but will, no doubt, always be -cited as a mark of Burmese arrogance. Besides the rooms reserved for -the King, then occupied by Sir Harry Prendergast, the Palace afforded -accommodation for the Queens and for Ambassadors, attendants, pages, -maids of honour, and the usual entourage of an Eastern Court. For some -years the Palace continued to be inhabited. The King's audience-hall -was used as a church; the corresponding hall on the west, the Queen's, -as a club house. A few of the buildings on the Palace platform were of -masonry work, built for the King by some of the foreigners who swarmed -at the Burmese Court. Like the famous A-tu-ma-shi[89] monastery, these -made no pretence of being in Burmese style, and were grievous to the -aesthetic eye. In the Palace enclosure was the Council Chamber where the -Hlutdaw[90] deliberated. Opposite was a model of the Kyaung,[91] where -King Thebaw spent his novitiate. This also was for some time used as -a church. All round the Palace were charming gardens, intersected by -watercourses, with many a grotto and pavilion, where gay young Princes -and Princesses, pages and maids of honour, idled away the pleasant -hours. Girdling and protecting the Palace and its precincts was an -inner wall of masonry, and round this again a palisade of stout teak -logs. The main gates of the palace corresponded with those of the city. -Just within the eastern gate stood a white tower, the Bohozin, whereon -was a mighty drum, the Bohozi, struck by hereditary beaters to record -the hour and to assure the world that the King was in his palace. -After the occupation, the beaters fled. We were gravely warned that -the silence of the Bohozi would be interpreted as a sign that anarchy -prevailed and that there was no Government. The beaters were sought -out and reinstated. As soon as the periodical sound of the drum was -heard once more, we were solemnly advised that this would never do. The -beating of the Bohozi indicated that the _Burmese_ Government still -existed, and that we were merely temporary sojourners. So the beaters -were retired on suitable terms, and the Bohozi was sent to the Phayre -Museum. I need hardly say that it did not matter a brass farthing -whether the drum was beaten or not. - -The Palace stood in the middle of what we came to call the city. -Built on somewhat high ground about three miles from the shore, the -city (myo) was a perfect square, surrounded by a rampart of earth, -battlemented walls, and a moat on which water-lilies floated in lovely -profusion. Each face of the walls measured one mile and a quarter. -Between the walls and the moat was a stretch of turf, as if expressly -provided for a morning gallop, but somewhat spoilt by sudden holes. -Five great gates, two on the west, one on each other side, opened -through the wall, each approached by a bridge over the moat. At every -gate was a red wooden pillar, with an inscription recording the date -and circumstances of its erection. Stories, which we need not believe, -are told of the burial of living victims beneath these pillars. Within -the city walls, all round the palace, the space was closely packed -with Burmese houses. Here were the dwellings of Ministers and other -high officers, each surrounded by an ample compound (win) where lived -a whole village of relations and retainers. Here also were the humbler -dwellings of minor officials, soldiers, and the miscellaneous rabble -collected about an Eastern Court. - -Now all is changed. The Palace remains a melancholy memento of Burmese -sovereignty. The halls are tenantless, and the footstep of the -infrequent visitor rings hollow on its floors. A fragment of the teak -stockade is preserved. The rest is replaced by a neat post and rail -fence. All the native houses have disappeared. The space within the -walls is occupied by barracks, mess-houses, dwellings, polo-ground, and -the like. The last Burmese house, now removed, was that of the Kinwun -Mingyi. - -[Illustration: THE CITY WALL, MANDALAY.] - -The town, as distinguished from the city, extended to the river on the -west and to Amarapura on the south, peopled mostly by non-officials -living in wooden houses and bamboo huts, with here and there a white -masonry building, the dwelling of an Indian trader. In the midst was -the great bazaar, the Zegyo. An embankment protected the low-lying land -from the river in flood. Through the town crept the Shwe-ta-chaung, a -malodorous stream, on whose banks still stood the old British Residency -in a grove of tamarind-trees. While in the city the roads were straight -and hard, the streets of the town were unmetalled, alternately dust -and mud. The first work undertaken by the army of occupation was the -construction of four roads to the shore. With military simplicity, but -perhaps with some want of imagination, these were called A, B, C, and -D Roads, names which still cling to them. To the south was the Yakaing -Paya, commonly called the Arakan Pagoda, the shrine of the great image -of Gaudama Buddha, brought across the hills from Arakan. Second only in -interest to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, it attracted throngs of pilgrims. -In one of the courtyards reclined battered bronze statues of magic -virtue. If you had a pain, you rubbed the correspondent part of one of -these statues, and obtained relief. In a neighbouring pond were sacred -turtles, who came at call to be fed. - -East of the city rose the Shan Hills, with the little hill of -Yankintaung[92] alone in the middle distance. The evening glow -reflected on the Eastern Hills misled the unobservant to rhapsodize on -the beautiful effect of the sun setting behind Yankintaung. North stood -Mandalay Hill, a cool and pleasant height, ascended by stone steps or -by a winding bridle-path; near its pagoda-covered summit towered a -stately upright statue of the Buddha, his right arm extended towards -the city, as it were the palladium of the capital. At the foot lay -the A-tu-ma-shi (the Incomparable Monastery), a large white masonry -structure of modern design, built by an Italian. Here sat another -colossal image of the Buddha, in whose forehead sparkled a diamond of -unequalled size and lustre.[93] Hard by stood the Ku-tho-daw Paya,[94] -surrounded by a multitude of small shrines covering alabaster slabs, on -which was inscribed the Law of the Buddha. This pious work commemorated -its founder, the Einshemin, Mindon Min's brother, who lost his life -in the rebellion of the Myingun Mintha in 1867. Gone now are the -Incomparable Monastery and the statue on the hill, both accidentally -destroyed by fire some years later. - -In December, 1885, the situation in Mandalay, and, indeed, in Upper -Burma generally, was very curious. Sir Harry Prendergast was in supreme -military command. Colonel Sladen was the chief civil authority. The -future of Upper Burma was still under discussion between the Chief -Commissioner, the Government of India, and the Secretary of State -(Lord Randolph Churchill). It might be decided to annex the country, -or it might be thought better to set up a new King, and to make Upper -Burma a protected State. Pending the decision, an attempt was made -provisionally to carry on the Government on the same lines as before -the occupation. Although the King of Burma was an absolute, not a -constitutional, monarch, there was a Council of State (the Hlutdaw), an -advisory and executive body with no legislative powers. It consisted -of the Wungyis, or Mingyis, the four highest officers of State; -four Atwin Wuns, high officers of the Palace; and four Wundauks, -props or assistants of the Wungyis. Under their orders was a crowd of -secretaries or clerks (Sayedawgyi). The country was governed by Wuns, -each of whom administered a local area, and received orders from the -Hlutdaw collectively, or from individual members thereof. Mandalay was -in charge of two Myowuns (town magistrates), the Myowun U Pe Si,[95] -and the Shwehlan Myowun. Temporarily, the Hlutdaw was maintained in -its powers and functions, the place of the King being taken by Colonel -Sladen. There was one important innovation. Over all was the Chief -Commissioner. The Hlutdaw issued a proclamation to all Wuns and local -officers, directing them to carry on their duties as before under -the command of the Central Government. British officers in charge of -districts Captain Eyre at Pagan, Mr. Robert Phayre at Minhla, Mr. -Collins at Myingyan, Mr. Fleming at Shwebo were not subordinated to the -control of the Hlutdaw. Mandalay also was removed from their control. -At first Mr. Fforde[96] as District Superintendent of Police, then -Captain Adamson as Deputy Commissioner, with Mr. Fforde as his chief -aid, were in charge. These officers received most valuable help from -U Pe Si, who threw in his lot with the new Government, and served it -loyally and well for the rest of his life. U Pe Si was one of the most -interesting characters of the annexation period. Of an established -official family, his grandfather having been one of the signatories of -the Treaty of Yandabo in 1826, he was a man of courage and resource, -well fitted to be the colleague of British officers. His knowledge -of Mandalay and the surrounding district was intimate and extensive. -His mind was acute and his judgment sound. At sixty, so old and frail -in appearance that he was once introduced to a high officer as "the -Yenangyaung Mingyi over ninety years of age," that fragile frame was -informed with dauntless will and resolution. He maintained the closest -relations with a succession of Deputy Commissioners and Commissioners -of Mandalay. His practice was to drop in to breakfast and consume vast -quantities of jam, to the detriment of his poor digestion, as an aid to -the delivery of wise discourse on men and things. Without him the task -of governing Mandalay, difficult at the best, would have been still -more arduous. - -Our early sway was of a patriarchal type. The theory that the penalty -should be made to fit the offence was adopted by an ingenious -magistrate who knew his Burman. An instance recurs to me worthy of -Shahpesh, the Persian. Some gamblers were brought up for judgment. - -"So you like cards. Will you play a game with me?" said the magistrate -genially. "Please draw three cards." - -Two aces and a two were shown. - -"What a lucky man! Take four stripes." - -The next man drew two kings and a five. - -"Your luck is not so good. Receive twenty-five stripes." - -And so on, to the delight of the public, and, we may hope, of the -players. Another accused in the same case, hung about with cards and -dice and other instruments of gaming, was paraded through the streets -with his face to the tail of the pony on which he sat. - -Colonel Sladen had the royal temperament, and was prepared to set right -all the wrongs done by his predecessor. In pursuance of this policy he -restored to the Yenangyaung Mingyi and the Pintha Mintha respectively -all their property which had been confiscated by the King. As soon -as these orders came to his notice, Mr. Bernard imperatively forbade -any further similar restitutions, rightly holding it impossible to -investigate the acts of the Burmese Government in exercise of its -sovereign powers. The Yenangyaung Mingyi, then verging on ninety, -was a valued Minister of King Mindon, and had been wounded in the -Myingun Prince's rebellion. On that occasion, as I heard from the lips -of an eyewitness, King Mindon was attacked by his disloyal son in a -summer palace near Mandalay Hill, and escaped borne on the back of -a faithful attendant. The Mingyi had fallen into disgrace with King -Thebaw, doubtless because he was father of the Kyimyin Mipaya,[97] -one of Mindon Min's lesser wives, who had borne the King a son, the -Pyinmana Mintha.[98] In the massacre of 1879 this child's life was -spared, probably on account of his extreme youth; but he and his mother -and her family all remained objects of suspicion, and were kept in -confinement by the Burmese Government. Soon after our arrival the boy -was discovered, and sent to India and educated at an English school. -After 1905 he returned to Burma and settled in Rangoon, where he still -lives on excellent terms with our officers. Restored to favour and -fortune, the Mingyi often came to see me, walking sturdily in spite of -his years, and usually accompanied by two small sons of about eight -or nine. The Pintha Mintha was the brother of Yanaung Maung Tok,[99] -already mentioned as the roystering companion of King Thebaw. These two -titular Princes were sons of another Yenangyaung Mingyi, of romantic -history. Sprung from humble stock, as a small boy he attracted the -notice of a Princess. She adopted and educated him, and made him one -of the royal pages. Conspicuous for grace and courtesy of manner, -and, probably also for ability, he went on from rank to rank till he -became successively Atwin Wun, and, on his death-bed, Mingyi. Though -not of royal blood, his sons were given the title of Mintha, as it -might be Prince Bismarck or Prince von Buelow. Yanaung Maung Tok had -the repute of being a blustering, truculent ruffian. If that was so, -Pintha Maung Byaung alone inherited his father's gracious qualities. I -knew him well. A pleasanter, more courteous, more polished gentleman -could not be found. His wife, who, I regret to say, died last year, -was of a good official family, and a lady of exceptional charm. Their -sons are doing well in Government service. Their daughters, delightful -young girls in their early teens, glittering with diamonds and rubies, -created a sensation at the celebration of Queen Victoria's Jubilee in -1887. All three married well, but only one survives, the happy wife of -a very distinguished Burmese officer. - -It was natural that for some time after the occupation there should -be much confusion. But at the very outset means might have been taken -for the preservation of the State Records; instead of which, in the -time-honoured phrase, soldiers were allowed to play havoc with these -documents; many of them were burnt, many more were torn and spoilt. -The loss was irreparable. Immediately after the Chief Commissioner's -arrival further destruction was stopped, and the surviving records were -collected and deposited in the Council Chamber. Much of interest was -thus preserved, but many State papers of priceless value, historically -and administratively, were irretrievably lost. - -The Burmese of Mandalay did not in the least recognize that they -had been conquered. They were as free and easy and unconcerned and -bumptious as if the King was still seated on the throne. The first -task set me in Mandalay, the day after our arrival, was to find a -Mohammedan doctor who was believed to have arrived lately from Bhamo. -This was literally all the direction or clue given to aid me in a -search among nearly 200,000 strange people. Not even the man's name was -known. Colonel Sladen kindly placed at my disposal a small Burmese -official, and as we rode out of the South Gate my companion was hailed -by a friend and asked where he was going with the young barbarian -(kala). My Burmese was fluent and vigorous. However, though I liked -not the manners of his friend, my man was an intelligent, willing -fellow, and before the winter sun had set we found and brought back the -object of our mission. Later on, when much distress had been caused -by fires, incendiary and accidental, the Burmans of Mandalay grew -rather sulky. But nothing cured them of their _insouciance_. When fires -were destroying their dwellings, they looked on quite calmly without -offering to lend a hand, while British officers took extreme risks to -save life and property in burning houses. - -"There is a very valuable box in that house" (in a blaze). "Would -you mind bringing it out for me?" I heard a Burman say to a British -officer, who complied with the cool request. - -At this time we were almost completely cut off from Lower Burma and -Rangoon. The telegraph line was interrupted, while letters came slowly -by steamer once a week. Postal arrangements were necessarily of a -primitive kind. The post-office was a flat, or barge, high and dry -on the river-bank. When a steamer came from Rangoon, the mail-bags -were opened and their contents cast on the deck of the flat. We who -had hastened down on hearing of the steamer's approach were allowed, -even invited, to search the pile and take what belonged to us. In -spite of this apparently hazardous procedure, I heard of no letters -going astray. I quarrelled quite seriously with a high officer of the -post-office because I said in his hearing, incautiously and, I confess, -unjustly, that I was sending letters to Rangoon by messenger rather -than trust them to the post. For some months, if not years, we were -unfriends; but I am glad to say that, in the course of time, we were -reconciled. - -[Illustration: ROW OF BUDDHAS.] - -[Illustration: RELEASING A TURTLE; A WORK OF MERIT.] - -I was soon taken from Secretariat work and sent as civil officer with a -column. A detachment of Madras Cavalry without support had been sent to -repair the telegraph line between Ava and Myingyan. They had met with -resistance and been forced to return. The task was then entrusted to an -adequate force. Two guns, British infantry, Madras Cavalry, and Madras -Pioneers were placed under the command of Major Fenwick, I.S.C. Captain -R. A. P. Clements[100] was staff officer; Mr. H. d'U. Keary[101] and -Mr. Rainey[102] were of our party. At Ava, where we halted before -starting on our march, Maung Hlwa, the local Wun, came in and made his -submission, among the first-fruits of Burmese loyalty in that part of -the country. Maung Hlwa, I am glad to say, still survives and draws -his pension. He was an official of the good old Upper Burman type. Not -over-educated, without very delicate scruples, of proved courage, with -boundless personal influence (awza), wherever he was sent he was a -loyal and useful servant of Government. No better man than he to bring -a troublesome township into order. He was one of the Burmese officers -who went to the Coronation Durbar at Delhi in 1903, where he was deeply -impressed by the pomp and splendour of the occasion. On this march he -was of the utmost service, though I am not quite sure that he did not -take advantage of the opportunity to pay off some old scores. So quiet -seemed the country and so little did we expect attack that I used to -ride for miles along the river-bank and through the jungle at Ava with -no other companion but Maung Hlwa. Yet within a month, at Sagaing on -the opposite bank, four officers were attacked within sight of the -Government steamer _Irrawaddy_, and three of their number slain by -dacoits who issued from ambush, cut down their victims, and disappeared -before the rest of the party, walking not a couple of hundred yards -behind, were aware of what had happened. The fall of Mandalay had been -so sudden that it had not yet been realized in rural places, and the -forces of opposition had not yet been organized. Very soon the turmoil -began. It was then long before officers were able to travel without -escort in Upper Burma. - -This was one of the first daurs, or small expeditions, undertaken. -Keeping close to the telegraph line which it was our primary duty to -restore to working order, we marched through the midst of the Ava -subdivision. In fine open country we rode daily over sessamum fields -or through tall growths of millet, making our first acquaintance with -the land where so much of our lives was to be spent. The climate was -cool and pleasant, so that we were able to march far into the morning. -At the village where the cavalry had been routed we were so hospitably -received that, to the best of my recollection, no punishment for past -misdeeds was inflicted. We were particularly touched to find here two -Madrasi sayces,[103] cavalry followers who had been missing since the -engagement, and who had, in fact, been wounded and disabled. They had -been plastered and nursed by the villagers, and were restored to us -none the worse for their adventure. Not much farther on we found a -crucified man falling to pieces after long exposure to sun and wind. I -believe it was customary to kill the victim before affixing his body to -a St. Andrew's cross. In early days, after a successful skirmish with -dacoits, a Burman assistant approached the civil officer, saying as a -matter of course: "I suppose it is time now to crucify the prisoners!" -Incidents like these illustrate the charming inconsistency of the -Burmese character already noted. - -Later on in our march we were resisted at two villages and had two -little fights without, I think, any casualties on our side. After -all the people had been cleared out, the first village was burnt for -reasons of military necessity. Rightly enough, the burning of villages -has always been discouraged, indeed, strictly forbidden, save as an -extreme measure or for military reasons. But, when occasion arises, it -is very interesting to put a match to a thatched roof and see it blaze -to the sky. The second village had to be shelled. Clements and I, -who had ridden round to examine one of the farther approaches, found -ourselves in the unpleasant position of being shelled by our own side. -There I saw an instance of the stoical resolution with which Burmans -meet death. A man torn to pieces by a shell asked only for an umbrella -to shield him from the sun and a cheroot to smoke while he awaited the -end. Both were supplied while our surgeon afforded such relief as might -be. Here is another inconsistency. By a shout and the explosion of a -cracker, a band of dacoits[104] will put to flight all the men of a -village, who stampede, leaving the women and children at the mercy of -the assailants. Dacoits themselves go to work with trembling knees and -hearts of water, ready to fly at the first sign of resistance. Yet men -of the same race and class face a firing party with a smile or walk to -the gallows with unfaltering step. Once, at a military execution, some -half a dozen dacoits were put up, one by one, against the city wall to -be shot. The first man had the top of his head blown off by the volley. -His companions awaiting their turn burst into a laugh at his grotesque -appearance. - -A day or two after Christmas we halted at M[)y]otha in the middle of the -Ava subdivision and there held the first gymkhana in the jungle of -Upper Burma. Pony races and other sporting events for officers and men -and for local Burmans made up the programme. It was a characteristic -episode. The people of M[)y]otha were very friendly and joined with -enthusiasm in the proceedings. Here I confirmed in his office the -M[)y]othugyi.[105] I am told that he still holds the appointment. After -leaving M[)y]otha, we had our third and last encounter with dacoits. -Captain Clements and Mr. Rainey took a few sowars[106] to escort a -telegraph working-party a few miles from our camp. So unexciting -seemed the prospect that the rest of us stayed behind. Some of us -walked unattended to a neighbouring village and sat for a long time -talking with the headman and his people. The working-party and the -escort were met by a hostile line of Burmans armed with muskets. -Followed by the sowars, the officers charged and routed the enemy, -but Clements fell with two holes in his chest. No wonder the surgeon -looked grave. A bullet in each lung, God shield us, is a most dreadful -thing. However, a fortnight afterwards I found Clements quite active -at mess at Tha-yet-m[)y]o. I infer that his pony swerved at the volley -and that the two holes were made by the same bullet. In Burma Clements -got another wound and two brevets. He served with great distinction -in South Africa, and after passing through many campaigns was cut off -by appendicitis at Quetta in the midst of a brilliant career. A fine -officer, a perfect horseman, with a frame of iron, even in youth he -gave promise of future eminence. - -Another unfortunate incident was an outbreak of cholera in our camp, -which brought us to a halt for some days and cost valuable lives. -A stalwart young sergeant of gunners was specially regretted. A -halt on account of cholera is one of the most gloomy and depressing -experiences, particularly for the men. It was with somewhat chastened -feelings that we marched into Myingyan. Our one consolation was that -we had accomplished our purpose and reopened telegraphic communication -with Rangoon. - -Meanwhile the Kinwun Mingyi, who had gone with the ex-King, had -returned to Mandalay, and the Taingda Mingyi, the evil genius of the -dynasty, had been sent to Hazaribagh. Mr. Bernard was convinced of -the Taingda Mingyi's active disloyalty. It was notorious that, in the -King's time, he fomented disorder and shared the spoils of dacoity. -There were reasonable grounds for believing that he continued these -practices and that his power was exerted against the Government. To -retain this man in a leading position on Colonel Sladen's Council, or -even to allow him to stay in Burma, deprived of office, in a private -station, was fraught with grave risk. In Mandalay his influence was -supreme. His speedy removal without previous warning seemed clearly -desirable. This was dramatically effected. As the Mingyi sat in the -midst of the Hlutdaw, Mr. Pilcher entered and summoned him to the Chief -Commissioner's presence. Arriving there, he was told that he was to be -sent to India. His request for permission to go to his house before -leaving was refused. Seated with Mr. Pilcher in a bullock-carriage, he -was driven to the shore. As he passed out of the West, the Traitors', -Gate, there was a block, and the carriage halted. "Is this where you -are going to kill me?" asked the old man. Under the provisions of -the beneficent Regulation III. of 1818, the Mingyi was detained for -several years. Long after the country had been at peace, he was allowed -to return and end his days in Burma in receipt of an allowance from -Government. He was a man of much force of character, comparatively -uneducated, and, unless his face and common fame belied him, of harsh -and cruel nature. That protruding under-lip and that glance, stern even -in old age, were signs of a fiery and turbulent soul. After his return -he did no harm, and, having lost his wealth in foolish speculations, -he died a poor man. I helped to get a small pension for his widow, an -innocent old lady, who was, I believe, sincerely grateful. The pension -was granted as an act of grace, not out of respect for the Mingyi's -memory. - -About this time I went on one more little daur, perhaps hardly worth -mentioning. Dacoits were entrenched in the Kaung-hmu-daw Pagoda, -not very far from Sagaing. A column, with Colonel Lowndes as civil -officer, was sent against them. Another column, which I accompanied, -started at the same time and went up the river. We were to hold a -defile in the hills and cut off the retreat of the dacoits dislodged -from Kaung-hmu-daw. The arrival of the main body at Sagaing was marked -by the lamentable incident already narrated.[107] Next morning, -as arranged, the pagoda was attacked and the defenders driven out. -The rest of the plan miscarried. Our intelligence was grievously at -fault. The only pass in the hills, we found, ran from east to west. -Through it we marched at the mercy of any hostile force which might be -crowning the heights. Emerging scathless from this gorge, as no one -took advantage of so fair a chance, we reached a wide champaign over -which an army corps might have scattered without coming near us. That -Sunday morning we had a pleasant picnic on a breezy down, and towards -nightfall we marched back, having seen no one worse than ourselves. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -LORD DUFFERIN'S VISIT: MANDALAY ONCE MORE - - -Early in 1886 Mr. Bernard returned to Rangoon. As I was not in Lower -Burma for any length of time from December, 1885, to March, 1887, it -does not fall within the scope of this book to attempt a description -of events in that part of the Province in the months following -the occupation of Mandalay. It was a time of stress and anxiety. -Insurrections, excited no doubt by emissaries from the Burmese Court -and headed in more than one case by monks, broke out all over the -country. For a time Lower Burma was a seething mass of disorder. With -inadequate military and police forces, Commissioners and district -officers bravely faced the situation, and by strenuous efforts -suppressed rebellion and gradually restored peace. In the early months, -in the Chief Commissioner's absence from Rangoon, the general direction -of operations was in the hands of Mr. Symes, then an officer of ten -years' service. With what nerve, resolution, and judgment he discharged -this great responsibility only those who served in Lower Burma at that -time can properly appreciate. No one could have done better and more -valuable work in a very serious crisis. Those early months showed Mr. -Symes to be an administrator of the highest class, and won for him the -reputation which he enjoyed to the day of his lamented death. - -At the beginning of 1886 Lord Dufferin came to study on the spot the -problem of Upper Burma and practically to decide its destiny. At -the same time came Sir Frederick Roberts, then Commander-in-Chief -in India. With the Viceroy were Mr. Durand,[108] Foreign Secretary; -Mr. Mackenzie,[109] Home Secretary; Mr. Mackenzie Wallace,[110] -Private Secretary; and Lord William Beresford, Military Secretary, -a galaxy of talent. Lord Clandeboye, afterwards Earl of Ava, in the -flower of his youth and beauty, was among the aides-de-camp. Sir -Frederick Roberts's staff was hardly less brilliant. It included -Major W. G. Nicholson,[111] Major Ian Hamilton,[112] Captain Neville -Chamberlain,[113] and Colonel Pole-Carew.[114] Besides being the -best-known man of his time in India, Beresford was probably the best -Military Secretary in history. He was thoroughly conversant with every -detail of his office. Equally at home in the direction of a Durbar or -the management of a social gathering, with singular charm of manner, -he had the delightful gift of being all things to all men. At a garden -party he might be seen in close converse with a pillar of the Church, -or hanging on the lips of an American Missionary, as if this idyllic -communion was the one thing for which he lived. After this visit, the -Bishop of Rangoon confided his opinion to a friend: "I am glad to -see that the tone of the Viceregal Court is so good. Do you know? I -think this high standard is in a great measure due to the influence of -Beresford." In Rangoon the usual festivities were held. At a ball I -was deputed to interpret between His Excellency and Burmese ladies and -gentlemen. Lord Dufferin's embroidered compliments, addressed to some -fair ladies, severely taxed my homespun vernacular. - -After a short stay in Rangoon Lord Dufferin and Sir Frederick Roberts -went up to Mandalay in the steamer _Mindoon_, fitted out and placed -at the Viceroy's disposal by the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company. Stopping -at various places on the way, the Viceroy made the acquaintance of -the local military and civil officers. The visit to Mandalay was an -unqualified success. Their Excellencies, for Lady Dufferin lent her -gracious presence to the occasion, were welcomed by the military and -civil officers and all the Burmese notables. They were installed in -the finest rooms in the Palace, visited all scenes of interest in the -town and city, and received the members of the royal house and the most -eminent Burmese officers and their families. On the eastern terrace of -the Palace the Viceroy held a levee, the first and only instance of -that ceremony being held in the Nandaw.[115] Just before his departure, -in a mandat[116] erected on the shore, he addressed a meeting of -Burmese Ministers and high officials. His speech was interpreted by an -Extra Assistant Commissioner, Maung Pyi. Failing to catch one sentence, -the interpreter vainly tried to induce his Excellency to repeat it. -Nothing daunted, Maung Pyi, with perfect assurance, evolved and uttered -an elaborate sentence of his own. The incident passed unnoticed. Lord -Dufferin's name will always be associated with Upper Burma. From Ava -he took one of his titles, and he acceded to the request that the -cantonment of Mandalay, embracing the city as well as an area without -the walls, should bear his name. - -On the voyage and after his arrival in Mandalay the Viceroy and his -advisers conferred with Mr. Bernard concerning the future of the newly -acquired dominion. With the sanction of the Secretary of State, his -Excellency, at a dinner given on the eve of his departure, announced -the decision that the country was to be administered as part of -British India. It was on this occasion, and by Mr. Bernard, that the -familiar term "annexation" was first publicly used. Then, having -accomplished the purpose of his visit, the Viceroy re-embarked for -Prome. Just opposite Pagan, whereat the state of the district did not -invite a landing, the _Mindoon_ stuck fast on a sandbank for nearly -twelve hours, a really characteristic incident on the Irrawaddy. Lord -Dufferin was not in the least disconcerted or annoyed; he professed to -be pleased to have one day's entire rest. Towards evening the whole -party were on the point of being transferred to some small craft in -attendance, but luckily the steamer floated off in time, and this -inconvenience was avoided. The return to Rangoon was saddened by the -tidings of the death of Mr. H. L. St. Barbe, one of the most rising men -in the Province, whose very remarkable personality gave every promise -of distinction.[117] He was killed in the Bassein District, one of the -first victims of the dacoit bands which harassed Lower Burma for three -or four years. - -By their charm and courtesy Lord and Lady Dufferin won all hearts, -and left the happiest impression on the people of the Province. Still -a junior officer, naturally I was not brought into close or frequent -contact with them; but on the voyage to and from Mandalay I was near -enough to come under the spell. Lord Dufferin was no doubt an admirable -Viceroy. His dignity and presence, as well as his brilliant gifts, -were specially fitted to adorn that illustrious office. He did not -condescend to detail or profess to be industrious in small things. -Industry, it has been said, is the tribute which mediocrity pays to -genius. Often, I have heard, it was difficult to induce him to attend -to matters of routine. But a really important case inspired him with -enthusiasm, and on it he shed the rays of an illuminating mind; to its -polished completion he devoted infinite pains. His visit in the early -years of his Viceroyalty was greatly to the benefit of the Province. -During the rest of his life in India his warm and friendly interest in -Burma never failed. - -The annexation of Upper Burma has been criticized not only by those -who regard with disapproval every extension of the Empire. A very -distinguished officer, whose best years had been passed in Burma, and -who was familiar with both parts of the Province, suggested to me as -one grave objection that the annexation extinguished a nationality, a -thing which had not before been done in India. I have no doubt that, -especially from the point of view of the good of the Burmese race, -the annexation was an unmixed advantage. So far from extinguishing a -nationality, we reintegrated it. Up to 1885 Burma was in a state of -disunion. Part flourished under British rule; part languished under -native tyranny. Some Burmans were British subjects; some served their -own King. The conquest of Upper Burma reunited the severed fragments. -Once more Burma became a solid country, the Burmese a nation under one -undivided control; and as such it began a career of almost unexampled -prosperity. Although there are differences and distinctions between -the two sections, due to the varied course of their past history, -Burma now forms one Province, and every part shares in the fortunes -of the whole. The annexation did far more than this. It restored -peace and order to a distracted people, and secured to every man the -free enjoyment of the fruits of his labours. To all men were given the -protection of equal laws and the assurance of even-handed justice. The -grasping avarice of officials was restrained, and corrupt practices -were discountenanced. Burmans are not excluded from a due share in -the administration. To aspiring youths, promising careers have been -thrown open. The second Burman as yet enlisted in the higher branch -of the Accounts Department is an Upper Burman, the first to take the -degree of Bachelor of Arts. On those Burmans who loyally accepted the -new Government, office and honours were freely bestowed. The Kinwun -Mingyi became a Companion of the Star of India, U Pe Si of the Indian -Empire. The real patriots were those who recognized that the new order -meant peace and prosperity, with no suppression of native religion or -customs, and who risked obloquy, and often life and property, in loyal -service to the State. These were truer friends of their people than men -who, by ineffectual revolt and resistance, plunged their country for -years into bloodshed and misery. - -In March, 1886, Sir Charles Bernard returned to Mandalay. On April -1 the provisional administration of the Hlutdaw came to an end. Sir -Edward Sladen retired, and the Chief Commissioner assumed direct -control of Upper Burma. At the same time the Burma Field Force was -broken up, Sir Harry Prendergast returned to India, and Sir George -White took command of the troops. While retaining general control -of the whole Province, Sir Charles Bernard left Lower Burma under -the immediate direction of Mr. G. J. S. Hodgkinson[118] as Special -Commissioner, devoting his own energies mainly to the settlement of -the new Province and the modelling of its administration. An entirely -separate Secretariat was formed, of which, as Secretary for Upper -Burma, I was in sole charge. My office was in the Hlutdaw building, -within the Palace enclosure. We had our own little printing-press, -modestly but efficiently equipped by Mr. Regan, and we published -our own _Gazette_. My only qualified assistant was Mr. Taw Sein -Ko,[119] then in his early youth, to whom I am indebted for invaluable -assistance during those busy months as well as in later years. Of the -clerical staff, the less said the better. It was, perhaps, a unique -Secretariat, with no records of previous years and no precedents. -Whatever the Secretary might forget, the Chief Commissioner remembered. -Besides myself, the only member of Sir Charles Bernard's immediate -staff was the Personal Assistant. This office was filled first by -Andrew Thomson, C.S., a man of brilliant ability and exceptional gifts. -Later came Sir Charles Bernard's elder son, J. H. Bernard, C.S., -endowed with many of the qualities of his family. Andrew Thomson died -in the flower of his youth, _multis bonis flebilis_. James Bernard died -in Bengal, in tragic circumstances, midway in a career of promise. -Never were two pleasanter or more helpful comrades. - -Though the Hlutdaw was dissolved, seven or eight of the principal -Ministers were retained on moderate salaries as a consultative body. -They had their own office in the Hlutdaw building, with a few clerks, -and were in charge of the old State records. The handwriting of these -clerks was most elaborate and beautiful. Such writing is now, I fear, a -lost art. In the King's time Court writers were kept up to the mark by -fear of heavy penalties. - - For wrongly dividing a word at the end of a line (like thi- - s) the punishment was amputation of the right hand. - -It seems almost excessive. The Sayedawgyi were of a higher class than -ordinary clerks in Government offices. Some of them were related -to Ministers, or even to members of the royal family. And often -enough they blossomed into Wuns or Ministers. Among them were men of -ability and character. I instance my friend Maung Tin, A.T.M., Extra -Assistant Commissioner, long resident at Pagan as township officer, now -subdivisional officer, a recognized authority on the antiquities of -that historic city. Another, also Maung Tin, A.T.M., Extra Assistant -Commissioner and subdivisional officer, has written a learned history -of Burma. Both are men of good family and have attained responsible -positions under our Government. The Ministers had no powers, but were -often consulted on matters of which they had special knowledge or -means of information. Punctually at noon every day, a chaprasi[120] -came into my office and announced the Minister's approach.[121] At the -ensuing conference public affairs were discussed and the opinions of -Ministers invited. If the stock of references was low, the conversation -turned to Burmese history and family affairs, of which their knowledge -was extensive and accurate. One day we were all bidden to the wedding -of the late Shwepyi Mingyi's daughter. A peculiar custom prevailed -among the wealthier classes of having marriages celebrated by Ponnas, -Hindu descendants of captives from Assam or Manipur. It has already -been explained that Buddhism, as understood in Burma, provides no -ceremony of marriage. The custom of inviting Ponnas to celebrate -marriages of Buddhists with some sort of Hindu rite, the binding with -a thread and the eating out of the same dish, is a curious anomaly for -which I can find no parallel. This was a wedding of the Ponna type. -All Mandalay attended, including many European officers. To complete -the quaint mixture of foreign ceremonies, the health of bride and -bridegroom was drunk in champagne by those of the company who allowed -themselves that indulgence. Late in the morning, as I was about to -leave, one of the Ministers said with a sigh: "Well, I suppose we must -be getting away to office too." The suggestion that such a festal day -might be spent as a holiday was accepted with effusion. There was -something pathetic in the thought of these men, all of mature and -some of advanced years, who had exercised almost absolute sway over -a kingdom, regarding themselves as under the orders of an officer so -much their junior in age. I did my best to make the position as little -irksome as might be. As I retained the friendship of every one of them -as long as he lived, I hope my efforts had some measure of success. - -With the Kinwun Mingyi I contracted a close and intimate friendship, -which ended only with his death at an advanced age. In early days -Andrew Thomson and I were often at his house, playing with his charming -grandchildren, small boys and girls of four or five years of age; -sometimes on Sunday mornings we went to his garden beyond the walls -for an early picnic. The Mingyi was a man of amiable disposition and -courtly manners, of great learning, a delightful companion. To have had -the privilege of discussing with him the doctrine of Neikban (Nirvana) -is a pleasant memory. Although he could have no real love for our -Government, he loyally accepted it, and did his best to support and -strengthen the new order. I believe him to have been a man of high -character, incapable of any base or treacherous act. His personal -record was unimpeachable; he lived and died in honourable disregard of -wealth. He had no children except two sons by adoption. - -Another house where I was always welcome was that of the widow of the -Pagan Min. She was his principal Queen, and occupied the house where -the deposed King and herself had lived since the accession of Mindon -Min.[122] It was interesting to meet in such conditions one who had sat -on the throne and was sprung from the race of Burma's Kings. She was a -charming lady, advanced in years, with the fine manners of her rank and -people. In the house of the Pintha Mintha[123] I was also received on -cordial terms. My friendship with his family subsists to this day. - -The description already given[124] of the position of women in Burma -may help to render intelligible the sketch of our life in Mandalay in -early days. For some months European ladies were not encouraged to come -to Mandalay. Most of us were extremely busy, and lived an austere life -in the Palace. For companionship we were dependent on one another and -on our Burmese friends. The people of whom I saw most in rare intervals -of relaxation were officials and their families and members of the -royal house. Queens and Princesses were many. For a melancholy reason -Princes were few. Except the Myingun Prince in Pondicherry, and the -Nyaung-yan and Nyaung-ok Princes in Calcutta, only two of Mindon Min's -sons survived--the Kawlin and Pyinmana[125] Princes.[126] Educated in -India, these two have now for some years lived in charming domesticity -in Rangoon; each happily married to a lady of his House. Both are -honorary magistrates, and duly take their turn as members of a Bench -for the trial of petty cases. There were a few other Minthas, sons of -the Einshemin[127] and other Princes, besides more distant relations of -the King. Several of the Minthas have taken service under Government, -and occupy responsible positions as Assistant Commissioners, M[)y]o-oks, -and in other departments. Almost all the ladies of the Royal House, -widows and daughters of Mindon Min, or otherwise nearly related to -the King, were in great distress and poverty. For the most part -they had subsisted on meagre allowances, many of them being kept in -confinement or under restraint. All these ladies received pensions -from the British Government, but on so minute a scale that Sir Charles -Bernard's proposals for their maintenance excited by their moderation -the surprise even of the Government of India. Yet when income-tax was, -as some think illegally, levied in Upper Burma on incomes derived -from Government, I am ashamed to say that these paltry stipends were -subjected to deduction. From time to time the scale of pensions was -raised, but it was not till many years later that I had the good -fortune to enlist Lord Minto's active sympathy with these ladies, and -to secure for them allowances not utterly inadequate. Most prominent of -the royal ladies in Mandalay were two full sisters of King Thebaw, the -Pakangyi and Meiktila Supaya.[128] Meiktila Supaya married a commoner, -and died some years ago, leaving two charming daughters, of whom one -is the wife of a Government officer. The Ama-daw-gyi[129] brought up -her nieces, and lived quietly in Mandalay till recent days. Only one -of Mindon Min's wives of royal stock survived till our time. Wives of -inferior rank were not of royal blood, but for the most part daughters -of officials or chiefs. The three whom I knew best were three sisters, -the Limban, Thetpan, and Thayazein Queens, daughters of a Talaing -M[)y]o-thugyi in Lower Burma. They were ladies of dignity and refinement, -with whom my family and I were long on terms of intimacy. Only the -Thayazein Queen survives, living happily with her daughters and -grandchildren in Rangoon. The pension list included over one hundred -persons. At first the Princesses shrank from marrying commoners, but -clearly most of them must condescend or remain unwed. Many of them, -therefore, in the course of time took husbands of inferior rank. In -the quarter of a century which has passed since the annexation, not -one of the ladies of the Burmese royal family has given the slightest -trouble to Government from a political point of view; none of them has -intrigued or shared in any conspiracy or seditious movement. When the -prominent part taken by Burmese women in public and private affairs is -remembered, it will be admitted that, if for this reason alone, these -ladies merit gentle treatment at our hands. I think they might at least -be excused from paying income-tax on their pensions. - -It may be appropriate here to notice the theory and practice of class -distinctions in Burma. The King and the royal family were placed on -a lone and lofty pedestal, and regarded with exaggerated reverence. -In respect of royalty there was almost, not quite, a distinction of -caste. An instance of respect for the sacredness of the blood royal -came under my own notice. A granddaughter of Mindon Min, daughter -of his son by a minor Queen, a charming and attractive girl, eloped -with the Queen's nephew, a very presentable youth. The boy was one of -the Queen's household, son of the Queen's own brother, a commoner. -The Mipaya's[130] distress and indignation were extreme. To console -her, I suggested that, after all, the lover was of her own family. "I -would as soon she had married a coolie out of the street," was the -uncompromising reply. The old lady had no rest till she had worried -these young people to divorce, and married the girl to a Princeling. -Anomalies were necessarily recognized. Though the King took as his -chief Queen one of his half-sisters, Kings and Princes might marry -commoners; royal ladies might not do so. Of late, as we have seen, -this rule has become less strict. But genuine respect for the royal -family still abounds. To this day, whether in Upper or Lower Burma, -any upstart who pretends to royal origin secures a following.[131] The -very sensible plan of employing them as M[)y]o-oks and Extra Assistant -Commissioners has done much to keep real sons of Princes out of -mischief. - -Apart from the royal family and monks, the only distinct class among -Burmans is that of officials. There is no landed gentry; there are -no county families. In most cases, especially in the higher grades, -official rank was not hereditary. The Mingyi's son did not become a -Mingyi, or the Wun's son a Wun, by succession. Occasionally one came -across officers, like my friend U Pe Si,[132] sprung from official -families. This was the result of nepotism, not heredity. As a rule -an official obtained his position by luck or by favour or by family -influence, by repute for learning, or by distinction as a soldier or -administrator. The royal family and officials excluded, the rest of the -people were on the same social plane. False pride and snobbishness were -unknown. One of the Ministers, of eminent learning, who came clad in -silks and glittering with golden chains, brought his brother to see me. -The brother was an old peasant out of the fields, who sat on the floor, -wearing the scanty dress of the working farmer. We had a pleasant -talk about crops and seasons, while the Minister sat on a chair and -discussed what Prince Hassan[133] used to call "country business." It -is, perhaps, to this absence of false pride, to genuine kindness of -heart, and to traditional respect for elders, that the fine manners -of Burmans are due. Good manners and self-respect are marks of all -ranks. I have received perfect civility and courtesy from Princes and -Ministers, from peasants and labouring men; always a kind word and a -smile and thought for a guest's comfort and convenience. Even contact -with Western civilization has not yet spoilt the grace of manner which -adorns the Burmese race. - -The lack of class distinctions imports a certain want of cohesion, -which does not facilitate the task of administration. Burmans are rank -individualists, and so, I suppose, far behind the times. Each family is -a separate entity, bound by no ties to any overlord. It is true that -the hereditary principle is strong in the case of minor offices, such -as those of M[)y]o-thugyi[134] or Ywa-thugyi.[135] These comparatively -small but important offices passed from father to son for generations. -In Lower Burma we have practically abolished the circle, and in Upper -Burma the M[)y]o is likewise in process of decay. I for one agree that -the village is the better unit. Yet some tribute of respect must be -paid to the old M[)y]o-thugyi, a courtly country gentleman of dignity and -presence, possibly more ornamental than useful. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -THE FIRST YEAR AFTER THE ANNEXATION - - -The task of constituting the new Administration and of reducing the -country to order was rendered especially difficult by the rigid economy -at first contemplated by the Government of India. In the discussions -during the Viceroy's visit it is understood that frugality was declared -essential. With the loyalty which in him, as in Sir Arthur Phayre, -rose almost to a passion, Sir Charles Bernard did his utmost to carry -out the wishes of Government. Beyond doubt or dispute, a burden far -greater than any man should be asked to bear was placed upon the -Chief Commissioner's shoulders. Yet the Titan never showed signs of -weariness. There were to be no Divisional Commissioners; district -officers were to work under the Chief Commissioner's orders. The -provision for police, especially military police, was quite inadequate. -The Secretariat staff was plainly insufficient. No one but Sir Charles -Bernard, with his immense power of work, his loyal enthusiasm, his -marvellous memory and mastery of detail, could have attempted the -task. And the effort was beyond even those exceptional powers. In -the first year of the occupation Sir Charles Bernard, for some time -single-handed, organized and directed the administration of the new -Province, doing the work of three ordinary men, dealing as far as -possible immediately in police matters with the Inspector-General, in -forest matters with the Conservator, keeping close touch and on the -most friendly terms with the military authorities, keeping also in -personal contact with every district officer, guiding, encouraging, -seldom admonishing. Throughout this year of labour and anxiety he was -hardly a week free from severe and painful illness. Almost from the -beginning he was the target of malicious and venomous attack. With an -inadequate though loyal and efficient staff in the districts; with -scanty funds doled out by the Imperial Government, which then, as -ever, treated Burma with unsympathetic parsimony; under the depressing -effects of illness, the object of ignorant and unscrupulous detraction, -the work done by Sir Charles Bernard in that first year, when order -began to be evolved out of chaos, has never been properly appreciated -in public. But no civil officer who served in Upper Burma in that year -fails to recognize the heroic work done by his Chief, or to remember -the support and encouragement received from him in times of trouble, -doubt, and confusion. No military officer of standing forgets the -loyal co-operation of the civil power as represented by the Chief -Commissioner. Sir Charles Bernard could not remain in Burma to complete -his work. He laid a sound basis for the restoration of order and -the building up of the fabric of settled government. The report of -the year's work issued at the end of 1886 was a record of which no -Administration need have been ashamed. - -As might have been foreseen from the first, it was soon found -impossible for the Chief Commissioner directly to control the -affairs of every District. Upper Burma was therefore partitioned -into Divisions, and Commissioners were appointed. In June, Mr. H. -St. G. Tucker, C.S., became Commissioner of the Eastern Division, -with headquarters at Ningyan (Pyinmana). This division was more -remote from Mandalay than any part of the Province as yet sought to -be administered; there was no communication with it by water, and -neither road nor rail was yet in being. In August and September three -other divisions were constituted. Mr. G. D. Burgess, C.S., became -Commissioner of the Northern Division; Mr. F. W. R. Fryer,[136] C.S., -with a great reputation from the Punjab, assumed charge of the Central -Division, both for a time residing at Mandalay; Mr. J. J. Digges La -Touche,[137] C.S., from the North-West Provinces, was posted to the -Southern Division, with headquarters at Minbu. With some adjustment -of local limits, these Divisions still subsist. Their names have -been changed, not, I think, for the better, and in most cases the -headquarters have been shifted. The appointment of these officers -afforded the Chief Commissioner appreciable relief. - -Having taken over an area twice as large as Lower Burma, Sir Charles -Bernard was confronted with the task of finding officers to administer -it. Obviously the existing staff could not be stretched to cover the -new Province and provide equipment for the old Province as well. For -the Commission civilians were sent from other provinces, military -civilians were recruited, and appointments were offered to men in -various departments or not yet in Government service. In each of these -alternatives there were advantages and disadvantages. Civilians from -other provinces, though versed in the art of administration, were -ignorant of the language and customs of Burma. Military civilians, -excellent material, needed some training in civil work. Officers of -other departments and non-officials recruited in the Province knew the -language and the people, but had no acquaintance with administrative -methods. The last-mentioned defect is probably regarded by many as -imaginary. While for other arts and professions a laborious education -is necessary, we all know that government and administration are gifts -of the gods and come by nature. We are all familiar with brilliant -amateurs in administration, who know their work far better than those -trained to the business from their youth. The Commission was thus a -composite body, probably not so supremely excellent as that which -undertook the settlement of the Punjab under John and Henry Lawrence, -but full of ability and zeal. The Civil Service, the Army, and what -were then called the Uncovenanted Services, furnished officers of -conspicuous merit, who in the years immediately succeeding the -annexation and in later times did invaluable work. Without making -invidious distinctions or offering presumptuous criticisms, I may -mention of the early new-comers Mr. H. P. Todd-Naylor,[138] Mr. J. -George Scott,[139] Mr. H. A. Browning,[140] Mr. B. S. Carey,[141] and -Mr. H. M. S. Matthews.[142] - -The officering of the civil police was one of even greater difficulty, -the pay and prospects being far less attractive. Some officers were -drafted from other Provinces. Many adventurous young gentlemen flocked -to Mandalay, eager to take part in the settlement of a new Province. -Of these some were appointed to be inspectors, some to be even head -constables, with a prospect of obtaining gazetted rank in the course -of time. Most of them did excellent work, fully justifying their -selection. From time to time some were transferred to the Commission. -The majority had a hard and disappointing life, waiting long for the -realization of their dreams. The story of the Burma Civil Police is one -of hope deferred, and of weary plodding through many dismal years. It -is greatly to the credit of its officers that they did well under such -depressing conditions. - -In the first year, at least, the bulk of the actual work of pacification -was done by the army of occupation. Sir George White was in command, -brave among the brave, cheeriest of companions, loyalest of friends, -the warrior whom every man in arms should wish to be. Chief of his -Staff was Colonel Prothero,[143] who worked all day and night without -turning a hair, whose gay serenity nothing could ruffle, whose motto -might have been: - - "Still to be neat, still to be dressed - As always going to a feast." - -In the course of the summer, Sir Herbert Macpherson, V.C.,[144] came -over to exercise general control. After his lamented death, the -Commander-in-Chief in India himself, Sir Frederick Roberts, spent some -months in Burma, occupying the summer-house in the Palace garden where -the King surrendered, giving to civil and military administration the -support of his authority, the strength of his wise counsel. Gradually, -as the area of settled government extended, the country was covered -with a network of small military posts, more than a hundred being in -existence at the end of the year. - -In these months came the first two military police battalions, raised -by Mr. Loch and Mr. Gastrell.[145] The Mandalay battalion, which I -knew best, attracted the flower of the Punjab. Under Mr. Gastrell's -excellent command it became a thoroughly efficient force, conspicuous -among the large body of military police which garrisoned the country -in subsequent years. These military police played an important part -in the pacification. Their behaviour was most praiseworthy. Several -battalions later on were converted into regular regiments of the Indian -Army, called at first Burma Regiments. - -For civil administration the Province was parcelled out into Districts, -at first twelve, afterwards seventeen in number, each in charge of a -Deputy Commissioner, with such Assistants as could be provided. In -some cases military commandants of outposts were invested with civil -powers, and did much useful work in a civil capacity. Every effort -was made to enlist local Burman officials under Government, and many -became M[)y]o-oks and rendered valuable service. But it was impossible -to induce higher officials to leave Mandalay, and to take part in the -settlement of out-districts. The effort was made and failed. One of -Sir Charles Bernard's first acts was the preparation and promulgation -of a set of instructions to civil officers, an admirable compilation -embracing in a small compass all the rules necessary at the outset -for the guidance of his subordinates. That was all the law we had in -Upper Burma till the end of November, 1886. As an instance of the care -taken to prevent hasty and harsh measures, it may be mentioned that -all capital sentences had to be referred to the Chief Commissioner for -confirmation. When Commissioners were appointed, the duty of confirming -these sentences was delegated to them. - -The chaos to which the country was reduced, and the confusion which -prevailed under the Burmese Government, rendered the task of -settlement extraordinarily difficult. The country was overrun with -dacoit bands, ranging in numbers from five to five hundred. The names -of the leaders, Hla U, Bo[146] Cho, Bo Swe, Oktama, Shwe Yan, became -household words. For some of the dacoit movements there was no doubt a -slight political move. A few scions of the royal stock who had escaped -the massacres of 1879 set up as pretenders to sovereignty, while here -and there men of humble origin assumed the style of royalty and raised -the standard of revolt. But as a rule, from the deeds and aspirations -of these robber bands genuine patriotism was conspicuously absent. -Most of the gangs consisted of dacoits pure and simple, whose sole -object was plunder and rapine, who held the countryside in terror, and -committed indescribable atrocities on their own people. Where-ever -there was an appearance of organized resistance, Buddhist monks were -among the chiefs. No political movement of importance has been without -a monk as the leading spirit. - -The story of the pacification has been told fully, vividly, and -accurately by Sir Charles Crosthwaite.[147] It is not my purpose to -attempt to tell the story again. In the first year the work proceeded -slowly, but within limits effectually. Many dacoit leaders were killed -or captured, and the elements of regular administration were introduced -into several districts. Revenue, of no enormous amount, it is true, -was collected; the country was covered with telegraph lines; useful -public works were undertaken. The early months were clouded by the loss -in action of Robert Phayre, a promising civilian;[148] the autumn was -saddened, for me most of all, by the death from fever, in Kyaukse, of -Robert Pilcher. A master of their language, and sincerely in sympathy -with them, Pilcher was exceedingly popular with the Burmese. The first -time I ever saw a man literally beat his breast for grief was when I -told the good old Taungtaya-ngase Bo[149] the sad tidings of his death. -Since then I have seen men and boys beat their breasts and shed real -tears at the recital of the tale of Hassan and Hussein[150] at the -Mohurram. Pilcher was a scholar with a touch of genius; his early death -was a loss to the State. - -[Illustration: A BURMESE FAMILY.] - -Among the homely virtues of the Burmese must be counted respect -for parents. This is inculcated in the Sacred Books, and forms a -really pleasing phase of family life. Two nephews of the Taung-gwin -Mingyi, one of the Council of Ministers, were giving trouble in the -Ava district. It was suggested to the Mingyi that he should use his -influence to induce them to surrender and make peace with Government. -"Certainly," said the Mingyi; "I will send for their parents and put -them in my dungeon and afflict them till their sons come in." It was -not possible to approve this crude proposal, but the Mingyi was told -that he might ask the parents to stay with him, and talk kindly to them -about their erring children. The young men submitted in a week, and -gave no further trouble. In Sagaing a famous Bo, Min O, was captured. -His life was forfeit for many crimes; but he was an old man, and two -of his sons were at large, leading dacoit bands. Word was sent to them -that if they did not surrender, their father would be hanged; but if -they gave themselves up, his life would be spared. Both came in. It -will no doubt surprise some people to learn that the promise to spare -Min O's life was kept. - -In the early days of April, 1886, there seemed to be a lull in the -storm. The time of the Burmese New Year approached, always a time of -some anxiety, when, if ever, disturbance may be expected. Perhaps this -had not yet been realized. The exact moment on which the New Year -began was calculated by the Ponnas,[151] who, besides officiating -at weddings, were also the royal astrologers.[152] The time was to -be announced by the firing of a cannon from the Palace enclosure. -On that April morning the astrologers assembled in the courtyard of -the Palace. The head seer drew a line in the dust, planted a small -stick, and declared that when the shadow of the stick reached the -line the auspicious moment would have come. At the precise instant I -made a preconcerted sign, and the cannon was fired. It might have -been arranged as the signal of revolt throughout the country. On that -day all the principal military posts in Upper Burma were attacked, -doubtless in pursuance of a definite plan. Next morning my servant -woke me rather early with the intimation that "the enemy were at the -gate." At dawn there had been a serious attack on the city of Mandalay, -swarming with troops, by a band of some twenty or thirty rebels -acting in concert with a few confederates within the walls. Inside -the city two unlucky medical subordinates were killed, and within and -without incendiary fires were lighted. The fire spread even to the -Palace enclosure, and we were in some anxiety for the main buildings, -which, once alight, would have burned like matchwood. To the roof of -the Hlutdaw mounted the faithful Thwethaukgyi[153] Tun Baw and his -subordinates, with chatties[154] of water and bamboo poles, to quench -and beat out flying sparks. Luckily the fire in the enclosure was -mastered, and we returned, grimy and thirsty, relieved to find our -quarters still standing. As the Palace was crowded with military and -civil officers and their establishments, and contained all the records, -its destruction would have been very inconvenient. - -The fortnight which followed was the longest fortnight of my life. It -was crowded with incident, attacks and risings, above all, incendiary -fires. Since those days I have ceased to take interest in fires. On the -Queen's Tower[155] stood a sentinel, day and night, to sound the alarm. -The easiest way to the tower was through my bedroom. Nightly I went to -sleep in expectation of being aroused by the fire-bugle and the tramp -of men, and I was hardly ever disappointed. Every night we climbed -the wooden tower, and saw the blaze of conflagration in town or city. -Once I asked the sentry if he had heard any sound of firing. "Well, -sir, I thought I did hear one of them there brinjals,"[156] was the -unexpected answer. Once, again, fire broke out within the Palace fence, -but did not spread. This also was well, as close to our quarters were -considerable quantities of gunpowder and dynamite. With the early rains -at the end of April fires ceased, and Mandalay enjoyed comparative rest. - -It was certain that some of the Burmese officials in Mandalay were -fomenting seditious movements in the country. Suspicion fell upon the -Shwehlan Myowun[157] and the Hlethin Atwinwun.[158] The Myowun was -removed to India in virtue of a warrant issued under the invaluable -Regulation III. of 1818. He was taken from his house by Mr. J. G. -Scott,[159] who had joined the Commission and was on general duty in -Mandalay. Their next meeting was at a pwe in Mandalay, on a memorable -night in 1897, long after the Myowun had been allowed to return.[160] -The Hlethin Atwinwun, most plausible and bland of miscreants, believed -to have been deeply involved in the massacre of Princes, from whose -hands one expected to see blood still dripping, was moved to visit -Calcutta of his own accord in response to a general invitation given -to Burmese Ministers by Lord Dufferin. He stayed in Calcutta for some -years, much against his will, but solely under pressure of peaceful -persuasion. He returned much chastened, and lived on good terms with -the officers of Government till his death early last year. - -In accordance with precedent not always observed, King Mindon had -moved his capital from Amarapura to Mandalay in the late fifties, -transferring thither many of the inhabitants and all the entourage of -the Court. The site was not in all respects well chosen. Much of the -town was below the level of the river in high flood, and had to be -protected by an embankment. In the rains of 1886 the Irrawaddy rose -to an abnormal height, causing grave anxiety for the safety of the -bund.[161] One night in August the disaster came. The embankment was -breached, and the low-lying parts of the town, as far as the great -bazaar (zegyo), were inundated. It was a night of peril and excitement, -which taxed to the utmost the energies of the officers in charge of -Mandalay, Captain Adamson, Mr. Carter, and Mr. Fforde. Till the river -began to fall the town remained under water, and we all went about the -streets in boats and launches. As the Burman is an amphibious being, -and the people in the area menaced by the flood had ample warning, the -loss of life was comparatively small. Searching inquiry established the -conclusion that twelve persons were drowned. An even more melancholy -loss of life occurred in connection with the distribution of rice to -people rendered destitute by the flood. In a crowd in a narrow passage -someone fell; the throng pushed forward unknowing, and many people were -trampled to death before the press could be stayed. - -One of the objects to which from the beginning the Chief Commissioner -devoted the full force of his energy and influence was the continuation -of the railway from Toungoo to Mandalay. By dint of constant and -indefatigable pressure on the higher powers, and by steadfast -resistance to the suggestion that a trunk road should first be made, -he succeeded in obtaining sanction for this essential work. The survey -was actually begun in the rains of 1886; construction was started -early in November of that year; and in February, 1889, less than three -years after the proclamation of annexation, the line was opened to -traffic throughout its whole length. To those who have experienced the -delay usually attending the grant of sanction to important and costly -proposals, the most remarkable feature of this record is that leave -should have been obtained in less than a year from the occupation of -Mandalay. The construction of the line afforded work to great numbers -of Burmans and others, and proved one of the most pacifying influences -in the eastern districts. There were no engineering difficulties, and -the climate enabled work to be carried on continuously throughout the -year. The opening of the railway was hailed with joy by the Burmans, -who expressed their appreciation in characteristic fashion, greeting -passing trains with shouts of delight and crowding to travel in the -mi-yahta.[162] It should never be forgotten that to Sir Charles -Bernard alone the Province owes the inception of this work, as indeed -in earlier days to his far-seeing policy it owed the construction of -the railway from Rangoon to Pegu, and thence to Toungoo. Apparently -Sir Charles Bernard furnished an exception to the rule that Indian -civilians are persons of narrow horizon. - -Among the measures taken at an early stage to facilitate the -pacification of Upper Burma was the disarmament of the people. Orders -to effect this were issued by Sir Charles Bernard, and some progress -was made. It was, however, under Sir Charles Crosthwaite's rule that, -in the face of much opposition, the whole Province was effectually -disarmed. No measure has had more excellent results in the prevention -of serious disturbances. Though from time to time dacoits and robbers -have become possessed of firearms, the thoroughness of the disarmament -is proved by the inability of rebels in recent years to obtain guns -and powder. The Arms Act has been very strictly enforced in Burma, the -number of firearms in each district being strictly limited, with the -most beneficial effect. - -In the time of King Mindon and King Thebaw many foreigners, mostly -French and Italian, flocked to Mandalay and obtained various -appointments in the King's service. The downfall of the Burmese -kingdom deprived these gentlemen of their employment. All had claims -against the Burmese Government for arrears of pay, for goods sold, or -for work done. Our Government naturally accepted responsibility for -the lawful debts of its predecessor. The claims of foreign creditors -were investigated as quickly as possible, and those established were -discharged. Besides these, there were literally hundreds of other -demands for payment of sums alleged to be due from the late Government. -These claims were laboriously investigated and reinvestigated, and -finally adjudicated upon by the Government of India. Substantial -payments were made in settlement of debts sufficiently proved. - -In those early days for most officers, military and civil, in Mandalay -life was a ceaseless round of strenuous labour. For me it was intensely -exciting. All day and often far into the night my time was fully -occupied. The enthralling interest of seeing from within and from -the centre the making of a new Province, of taking a humble share in -the work, was a privilege which falls to few men in a generation. -The receipt of reports from districts, the issue of the Chief -Commissioner's orders, daily contact with men of distinction in arms or -civil affairs, the early morning ride with my Chief or with a comrade, -sometimes even with the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Frederick Roberts, of -whose kindness I have the pleasantest recollection, opportunities for -the study of Burmese life and character, filled to overflowing the -swiftly passing weeks. Bustle and excitement and good fellowship formed -an exhilarating combination. All the holiday I had that year was a run -down to Rangoon for a day to see my wife and family off to England. -But who wanted holidays at such a time, when his work was far more -interesting and stimulating than other people's play? With Stevenson we -might say that we had "the profit of industry with the pleasures of a -pastime." - -It should hardly be necessary to say that in those early months the -outskirts and fringes, the Shan States and the Chin and Kachin Hills, -were untouched. It has been suggested that in dealing with the Shan -country there was undue delay. Anyone who realizes how much there was -to do in the plains, and how impossible it was to do everything at -once, recognizes the futility of the suggestion. The Chins were left -severely alone. The only attempt made this year to penetrate into the -Kachin Hills was the luckless expedition to Ponkan,[163] which returned -to Bhamo _re infecta_, to the extreme wrath of Sir Charles Bernard and -Sir George White. - -The Shan States occupied the whole of the east of Burma, stretching -even beyond the Mekong River. They constituted an integral part of the -Burmese Empire, but were administered by their own hereditary chiefs, -puny folk who grovelled before the pinchbeck Majesty of Burma, and -were on a footing quite inferior to that of native rulers in India. -The first of the Shan chiefs to open communication with us was the -Sawbwa[164] of Hsipaw, or, as the Burmese called it, Thibaw, the State -from which the late King derived his title. This enlightened chief had -a romantic history which will bear retelling. Some years before, having -quarrelled with the King, he fled for his life to Lower Burma. With -a few attendants he took up his residence in Kemmendine, a suburb of -Rangoon. Presently he came to believe, very likely with good reason, -that at the King's instigation two of his servants were plotting his -death. Accustomed in his State to exercise the power of life and death, -he tried them in his own mind, found them guilty, and executed them -with his own hand, shooting them both. He was tried by the Recorder -of Rangoon (Mr. C. F. Egerton Allen[165]) and a jury, convicted, -and sentenced to death. The capital sentence was at once commuted -to transportation for life, and the chief began to serve his term -in the Rangoon jail, where he was at first set to do the usual hard -labour required of prisoners. Mr. Crosthwaite, who was acting as Chief -Commissioner, found him in this sad condition, and ordered material -alleviation of his lot. The Sawbwa's faithful Mahadevi,[166] who had -accompanied her husband, besieged the Chief Commissioner with petitions -for his release. Before long Mr. Crosthwaite yielded to her importunity -and set free the Sawbwa on condition that he never returned to British -territory. He went to the independent State of Karenni. At or about the -time of the occupation of Mandalay he made his way back to Thibaw, and -after a brief struggle regained possession of his State. - -Quite early in 1886 the Sawbwa wrote to me, as Secretary to the -Administration, saying that he had received much kindness from the -British Government, and desired to be on terms of friendship with us. -It has always seemed to me that this was a very magnanimous act. I -agree that it also showed much wisdom. The Sawbwa was a man of great -intelligence. He had seen and experienced the power of the British -Government. No doubt he realized that he was dealing with a Government -immeasurably stronger than that which it had displaced, and he saw -his interest in being on good terms with it. I think, too, that he -had a shining vision of becoming an independent Sovereign in alliance -with India. After all these deductions are made, it implied true -greatness of soul for a semi-civilized chief to remember the clemency -which had spared his life, to forget the dock and the prison cell and -work-yard. The correspondence begun by the Sawbwa was continued on -cordial terms. Early in 1887, in spite of the passionate entreaties -of his advisers, who were filled with gloomy forebodings, Kun Saing -came down to Mandalay. This again showed courage and foresight. There -was not a British officer or soldier in the length and breadth of the -Shan States. Mandalay was full of troops. Though he brought a fairly -large retinue, the Sawbwa knew that he was placing himself entirely -in our power. His confidence was more than justified. He was received -with some ceremony, Mr. J. E. Bridges, C.S., and I, as representatives -of Government, meeting him at Aung-bin-le with a squadron of cavalry -and a military band. Under this escort the Sawbwa made a triumphant -entry into Mandalay, and was allowed even to ride through the Palace -grounds. In the King's time he might sooner have hoped to fly over -them. Sir Frederick Roberts and Sir Charles Bernard were among the many -spectators of the procession. Accompanied by the Mahadevi, the Sawbwa -was suitably lodged in a Win[167] outside the city walls. The ladies -in his train were somewhat scandalized at being photographed by an -enthusiastic amateur before they had time to change out of riding kit. -The Sawbwa's amats[168] continued in a state of alarm all the time they -were in Mandalay. Their terror rose almost to frenzy when one day the -Chief was taken for a picnic on the river in an Indian Marine vessel. -Even the Chief was somewhat relieved when he landed safe and sound on -the Hard. - -The Sawbwa had the luck to be in Mandalay at the celebration of Queen -Victoria's first Jubilee. Partly in honour of that auspicious occasion, -partly in recognition of his confidence and loyalty, the tribute of -Thibaw was remitted for ten years, and three small adjacent States, -Maing-lon, Thonze, and Maing-ton, to which very shadowy claims had been -preferred, were added to the Sawbwa's territory. Sir Charles Bernard's -action in making over these States has been criticized. Viewing the -case calmly after the lapse of years, I humbly think that his decision -was wise. The suggestion of the risk of creating a powerful Shan State -strong enough to be a menace to Government was plainly ridiculous. If -all the Shan States were united under one Chief, he would not have as -much power as the ruler of a second-class native State in India. Thibaw -with its added sub-States could never be in a position to cause the -Government of Burma a moment's anxiety. On the other hand, a large and -comparatively wealthy State is more easily managed and likely to be -administered better than a lot of small tracts. - -[Illustration: THE SAWBWA OF THIBAW.] - -Although Kun Saing was not an ideal ruler; although from time to time -complaints were made against him; although, I believe unjustly, even -his loyalty was doubted, he was an enlightened and intelligent chief of -some subtlety. Twice in later years he visited England, where he had -the honour of being received by Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The story, -from first to last, has a ring of the Old Testament. The place most -of all admired by the Sawbwa was the Crystal Palace (hman-nan-daw). -Towards the end of his life, when the first signs of unrest in the East -became dimly apparent, he is said to have contracted a secret marriage -with the Pakangyi Supaya,[169] King Thebaw's sister. Not that he -meditated treason; but if anything should happen, he meant to be on the -right side. - -Two of Kun Saing's sons were partly educated in England. The elder, -Saw Hke, succeeded his father, and is now the polished, courtly Chief -of Thibaw. The story of Saw Lu, the younger son, is pathetic and -instructive. When still a boy he was sent to England, and was for a -time at Rugby. He was a studious and ambitious youth, whose desire -was to be, not a King, but a doctor. Most unwisely, merely to see how -he was getting on, his father recalled him, and he was turned loose -in Thibaw at the age of about sixteen. The temptations besetting the -Chief's young son in his father's capital were too strong for him, -and he fell from grace. The cup of his iniquity brimmed over when he -eloped with a young girl who had been selected as the Sawbwa's Abishag. -The fugitives were brought back, and the boy was cast into prison. -"Is this your British justice?" he indignantly asked the political -officer who came to condole with him. Presently he was released, and -came to see me in Rangoon. "I don't know what to do," he said; "I -have apologized to the governor, but he won't forgive me." He was an -exceedingly good-looking, nice-mannered youth, like a pleasant English -public-school boy. He was not allowed to return to England. Over his -subsequent history it is kinder to draw a veil. The moral of this story -is that if a Burman or Shan, especially a Chief's son, is to come to -England, he should be sent while still young, and should be kept at a -good public school and at the University until his character has been -formed. He should on no account be brought back midway in the course of -his education. - -Even more deeply learned in Shan than in Burmese, Pilcher would have -been the first civil officer in the Shan States. After his death, I -was designated by Sir Charles Bernard for that post. When the time -came, another officer was selected. Speaking seriously and without -reserve, I have no doubt that this was for the advantage of the Shan -country. No one could have been more conspicuously successful than -Mr. Hildebrand[170] and Mr. Scott;[171] no one is likely to have -done nearly so well. In view of the original intention, in the cold -weather of 1886 I was given a holiday from office-work, and sent as -civil officer with a column under Colonel E. Stedman[172] to Thonze. -Through this State ran the trade route to the Northern Shan States, -Thibaw, Theinni, and Taungbaing. Along this road came caravans of -bullocks laden with letpet.[173] Owing to dissensions in Thonze, the -trade was stopped. The object of our expedition, the first sent into -the Shan country, was to obtain information and to open the road for -traders. Early in November, when the season should have been settled, -on a fine Sunday afternoon, I rode out to join the rearguard at Tonbo. -Next morning we were to catch up the main column at Zibingale. From -Tonbo to Zibingale we climbed the hill in a torrent of rain, letting -our ponies loose to scramble up the steep and rocky ascent, while the -Gurkhas chaffed one another and laughed at the weather. At Zibingale -we stayed under canvas in the rain for three days and three nights, -quite comfortable in our tents, but rather aggrieved at having to wade -knee-deep in mud to mess. - -The Madrasi garrison of the post was prostrate with fever almost to a -man; of our own small force about a quarter fell sick. By judicious -doses of quinine, I saved my servants and myself, so that we all came -through unscathed. After three days the rain ceased and we began our -march in cool November sunshine. On that delightful plateau, some three -thousand feet above the sea, the winter climate is perfect. We rode -through forest paths and fairy glades, wild roses clustering in the -hedges. At Pyintha and Singaing, we first saw the bazaar, held every -five days, a custom peculiar to the Shan States and Further East. -Buyers and sellers came from all the countryside, often from distant -places. It is much like market-day in a country town in England. The -market at Singaing and at Pyinulwin was of some interest, and attracted -strange folk from the hills. It was not to be compared with the great -bazaars held at Kengtung, Namkham, or even Mogok, thronged with many -varieties of races in rich diversities of attire. To us, the people -most novel and attractive were the Shans, men swaggering in baggy -trousers and large flapping straw hats brigand-like, but formidable -only in appearance; girls with russet-rosy cheeks, shy and gentle. -Pyin-u-lwin, a charmingly situated village of some five-and-twenty -houses, with a market-place and a gambling ring, won our hearts. Though -we did not actually discover Pyin-u-lwin, we were among its earliest -visitors. We were received with all kindness and hospitality. Several -of us were housed in the village monastery, where we were heartily -welcomed by the monk. He was still there when I left Burma twenty-four -years later. With Captain E. W. Dun, our Intelligence Officer, I -inspected a curious magnetic rock in the neighbouring jungle. Some -years afterwards it was described as a new discovery by a geologist of -note. It has been lost again, but will doubtless be found some day. -Soon after our return, on Colonel Stedman's recommendation, a military -post was established at Pyin-u-lwin, and called May-m[)y]o, after Colonel -May, of the Bengal army, a Mutiny veteran, the first Commandant. -May-m[)y]o is now the summer residence of the Burma Government and the -headquarters of the Burma division, a flourishing hill-station with a -population of about 12,000. Without pretension to the picturesque, it -is a place of great charm and quiet beauty, with no palm-trees and few -pagodas, conspicuously un-Oriental, more like a corner of Surrey than -of Burma.[174] - -From Pyin-u-lwin we marched to Thonze, through a desolate country, -overgrown with elephant-grass, but with many signs of past prosperity. -At the ruined town of Thonze, now no more than a straggling village, -we halted and tried to open communication with Hein Se,[175] a bandit -who claimed to be Chief of the State. I promised him a safe-conduct and -liberty to depart if we could not come to terms, and to encourage him, -I offered to let him keep my messenger as a hostage for his safety. -This offer was made with the knowledge and consent of the messenger, -a little Shan chiefling known as the Tabet Myosa. Him we had found, -practically destitute, in Mandalay, where he had been detained by the -King. As a matter of grace, he was given an allowance of Rs. 10[176] a -month. He accompanied me on this tour, and pluckily undertook to carry -my letter to Hein Se. As he was leaving, he turned at the tent-door, -and said: "But you will let him come back, won't you?" Accepting my -assurance, he went off. I know that he discharged his mission, as I -received a reply. But his courage was not put to the extreme test. Hein -Se behaved like a gentleman, treated the envoy kindly, and sent him -back in safety. He himself declined my invitation. The future history -of Tabet may be told here. A few months later, when Mr. Hildebrand -and Mr. Scott went to the Shan States, I sent the Myosa with them. He -made himself useful, and showed nerve and ability. When, owing to the -persistent recalcitrance of its ruler, who fled across the Salween -and stayed there, the large State of Yatsauk was in need of a chief, -Tabet was chosen. He ruled Yatsauk with loyalty and intelligence, and -handed down the succession to his son. His fortune, probably his merit, -was better than that of another Shan chiefling of similar status, the -Maingkaing Myosa, who also received from Government 13s. 4d. a month, -and received no more. - -The rest of this tour was without incident. We explained to the people -of Thonze the beneficent intentions of Government, and gave a practical -example of the good manners of a British military force. The Gurkhas -of the column, then as ever, were specially popular with the people to -whom doubtless they are akin. - -In February, 1887, Mandalay was not behind the rest of India in -celebrating the Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The ceremonies -were designedly arranged so as to give the people an opportunity of -demonstrating their loyalty and devotion to the Crown by revels which -they themselves appreciated. For a week pwes[177] and other Burmese -festivities went on day and night. On the first day came all the -members of the royal family, all the high officials, and a crowd of -others, in their gayest and richest attire. In the principal ballet -appeared, probably for the last time, the famous singer and dancer, -Yindaw Ma Le, the favourite of Princes, undisputed _prima donna_ of the -Burmese operatic stage, who ten years before had been sent to Rangoon -by Mindon Min to dance at the Proclamation rejoicings. Twenty years -later her successor, Ma Twe Le, also a lady of supreme grace and -serpentine charm,[178] had the honour of dancing before Their Royal -Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales. - -One of the relaxations of those early days was to see the working of -the Elephant Kheddah at Amarapura. The Kheddah establishment, inherited -from the King and maintained for some time, consisted of a number -of tame elephants, thoroughly well trained, with Burmese riders and -hunters. The tame elephants, some with riders, some guided only by -their own sagacity, plunged into a jungle teeming with herds of their -wild brethren. By artful strategy a wild elephant would be detached -from his fellows, lured into the midst of the tame herd, and gradually -drawn to the Kheddah enclosure. This was a quadrangle, entered only by -a funnel-shaped passage, surrounded by a strong outer wall of brick -and by an inner stockade of stout teak posts set at intervals, with -a space between the stockade and the wall. By his clever, perfidious -friends, the captive was cunningly edged and hustled towards the -passage till finally he was thrust into its mouth. Then the gate was -securely fastened and the quarry was alone at the mercy of his captors. -The hunters teased him with blunt spears and sticks, not doing him any -real harm, but annoying him exceedingly, escaping his charge by darting -between the posts of the palisade, set wide enough apart to admit a -man but not an elephant. This was a sport of some danger, requiring -nerve and agility. When the poor beast was thoroughly tired, he was -noosed and tied up in the Kheddah, and the process of training began. -Spectators sat in crowds on the wall to watch this pastime. I do not -think it occurred to any of us that it was somewhat cruel. - -In March, 1887, Sir Charles Bernard left Burma. He was entertained by -the Headquarters Mess at a farewell dinner, where Sir George White[179] -proposed his health in moving and eloquent terms, quoting most -appropriately the famous lines: - - "Him who cares not to be great, - But as he saves or serves the State. - Not once or twice in our rough island story, - The path of duty was the way to glory: - He that walks it, only thirsting - For the right, and learns to deaden - Love of self, before his journey closes, - He shall find the stubborn thistle bursting - Into glossy purples, which outredden - All voluptuous garden-roses." - -We escorted our guest to the steamer, and there bade farewell to our -Chief and our friend. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -A FEW WORDS ON BUDDHISM - - -Buddhist monks are the most influential and most respected class of -the community. In passing it may be mentioned that there is no such -person as a Buddhist priest. No one exercises any sacerdotal function -or celebrates any Sacrament. The religious are not priests, but monks, -a numerous and well-organized body, wielding indefinite but real -authority. In every village at least one monk is found. In Mandalay, -the typical Burmese city, they were numbered by thousands. Professed -monks are bound by vows of chastity and poverty, and are subject to -strict discipline. Wearing the yellow robe, the distinctive mark of -their order, as morning comes round monks and novices from every -monastery walk slowly through the streets, each bearing a bowl for -the receipt of the offerings of the faithful. We must not call this -vessel a "begging-bowl." One of the many acts from which a monk is -bound to abstain is asking for anything. Voluntary gifts are freely -offered, and are received as a matter of course. The lives of monks -are devoted to meditation, the practice of austerities, the study and -exposition of the law, the instruction of youth. Every Burmese boy -enters a monastery, stays for a longer or shorter period, and receives -there the elements of secular learning. Also, much to his profit, he -is instructed in religious and moral duties. Thus it happens that -in Burma elementary education is widely spread. The proportion of -literate persons is greater than in any country where education is -not compulsory. It is rare to find a man who cannot at least read and -write. Sometimes men profess to have forgotten these arts, but as a -rule this is mere laziness. The influence of monks having remained -undisturbed by foreign contact, five-and-twenty years ago sound -education in the vernacular was more common in Upper Burma than in the -rest of the Province. In my own Court in Mandalay, in comparatively -early days, a Lower Burman clerk was stumbling over the reading of a -document. A bystander, apparently a plain man, offered his services. -Borrowing a pair of spectacles from his neighbour, he read the crabbed -text with fluency and accuracy. The incident does not prove, but it -illustrates, my argument. - -[Illustration: MONASTERY WITH CARVING.] - -Apart from the instruction of youth and the exposition of the law, -monks are not supposed to take an interest in mundane affairs. Their -aloofness has been exaggerated. In a country village, for example, the -monk was obviously the most learned and disinterested, very likely the -most intelligent, person. Inevitably he was sought as the arbitrator -of disputes. That monks often acted in that capacity, I have found -abundant evidence in old documents produced before me in court. Some -of these went back a hundred years, when the country was quite free -from foreign influence, and cannot be regarded as indicating degeneracy -of the monastic order. Again, it has been said that the authority -of monks depended solely on their personal qualities and religious -character, that it had no secular sanction. As regards Upper Burma -in the King's time, nothing can be farther from the truth. Buddhist -ecclesiastics relied on the arm of flesh. The King and his officers -promptly and effectually enforced the commands of the hierarchy. Laymen -were severely punished for ecclesiastical offences, and recalcitrant -monks were imprisoned within the precincts of a pagoda, or compelled to -do acts of penance. In early days in Mandalay one Deputy Commissioner -essayed to maintain the ancient rule, and to give effect to monastic -sentences. Unfortunately this good practice could not last. Now the -hierarchy complain that, as Government will not enforce discipline, -authority is waning, with disastrous results. The most that the Courts -have found possible is to give effect to decisions of duly constituted -religious tribunals in disputes of a civil nature between members of -the order. Another instance of the interference of monks in worldly -affairs, their almost invariable complicity in political intrigues, -has been already mentioned. The Kinwun Mingyi himself emerged from a -monastery to take part in the rebellion which placed Mindon Min on the -throne. - -On the whole, in Upper Burma as we found it, the monks constituted a -respectable body, including many learned and devout persons. I do -not pretend that all were immaculate. Doubtless there were idle and -dissolute monks. One hears from Burmans themselves of some who were -monks by day and who at night threw off the yellow robe and ranged -the town. Some of them dabbled in magic and alchemy. A really pious -monk could hardly become a dacoit chief. But the great majority -honestly lived up to their profession. The fact that the vows were not -irrevocable tended to prevent the occurrence of scandals sometimes -incident to monastic life. Complete liberty of renunciation lessened -temptation to break the vows. It was always open to a monk to return -to the world and, as it was phrased, again to become a man. Even if -a shadow of discredit attached to a monk who had come out (twet), -it was faint and transitory. In a land where life is simple and -much concealment impossible, no body of men who lived unworthily -could retain the respect of all classes. Every layman, from the -King downwards, treated monks as superior beings. I have seen the -Kinwun Mingyi lean out of his carriage and pay the graceful Burmese -reverence[180] to a humble passing monk. - -In Upper Burma the fine flower of Buddhism flourished. The monastic -system was elaborately organized. At the head was the Thathanabaing; -under him were Gaing-oks, Gaingdauks, and Taik-oks,[181] in due -succession and subordination. The Thathanabaing was not, as some -suppose, elected; he was appointed by the King. In former days his -authority prevailed throughout Burma. As by degrees fragments of the -country became British territory, the Thathanabaing's jurisdiction -naturally shrank, being restricted to the King's dominions. Even if for -no other reason, it was impossible for British officers to recognize in -Lower Burma the authority of a monk who lived in Ava or Mandalay, and -owed his power and appointment to a foreign monarch. Consequently the -bonds of discipline were relaxed. Monks and laity in Lower Burma were -as sheep without a shepherd. Heresies and schisms rent the Buddhist -Church. The influence of monks waned perceptibly. Buddhism was and is -still a living creed in Lower Burma. But it cannot be pretended that it -is so vital and beneficent a force as even now in the Upper districts. -Similarly, as already indicated, monastic education declined. The -absence of ecclesiastical control has caused some deterioration of -character in Lower Burma. - -The policy of the Government of India has always been to observe strict -neutrality in religious matters, to interest itself in no form of -creed. All education directed by Government has been rigidly secular. -It is now felt by many that this policy, however well-intentioned, -was mistaken, that in allowing, or even encouraging education to be -exclusively secular, Government has done much to sap the foundations of -morality and loyalty, to undermine the basis of character. Probably the -right course would have been not to stand aloof from the divers creeds -of the Empire, but to take an active interest in all, and to see that -each had fair play and encouragement. For a Christian Government to do -this would have been difficult; most likely the attempt would not have -been tolerated by public opinion at home. So far as India is concerned, -the tiresome thing about public opinion in England is that, where -interest might be beneficial, it cannot be roused; while in some vital -matter in which only the man on the spot has materials for judging, the -British public, or its spokesmen, insist on interfering. (How pleasant -would it be, for instance, to see on newspaper posters such legends -as-- - - ANOTHER WRONG TO BURMA. - - BURMA'S SAD FINANCIAL STATE. - -How unlikely we are to see them!) Perhaps of the two mistakes lack -of interest is the less mischievous. Recently we have made a step in -advance. Religious teaching in State schools has been permitted; all -pupils may receive instruction in the creeds which they profess. - -Sir Charles Bernard recognized the value of monastic influence, -and did his best to enlist it on the side of law and order. It was -particularly desirable that monks should be discouraged from taking -part in political agitation. It was also hoped that the monastic -system of education might be maintained and strengthened in sympathy -with our own Education Department. At the time of the annexation the -Thathanabaing was a weak but well-meaning person who had been King -Thebaw's tutor. The Chief Commissioner interviewed him in person and -essayed to excite his enthusiasm for the new Government. In recognition -of the part taken by monks in secular education, monthly gifts of rice -were sent to the Thathanabaing and his trusted counsellors, the Pa-kan -and Hladwe Sadaws. The Thathanabaing was induced to visit Rangoon with -a view to the extension of his authority over Lower Burma. Government -provided for his journey, which was made in some state with a long -train of monks. He was received with rapture at Prome and in Rangoon; -and a rest-house (zayat) for him and his successors was built on the -slope of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. The effort was ineffectual. Neither -that Thathanabaing nor his successors have exercised any power in Lower -Burma, which still remains in a state of reprobation. Another attempt -was made to conciliate Buddhist sympathy. Many monasteries and other -religious buildings had been used by troops and others for Government -purposes, and some damage had been done. All over the country monks -had hospitably received and entertained our officers, and had raised -no objection to the necessary temporary use of sacred buildings. As a -compensation for disturbance and damage, a substantial sum of money -was disbursed to a large number of monks. As monks may not touch gold -or silver, the actual coins were placed in the hands of lay followers. -These well-meant efforts had, I fear, no appreciable effect. The -Thathanabaing had not the authority, even if he had the will, to -control and direct his monks by moral force alone. Monks were civil -to British officers, often glad to have the protection of a military -post; but they did not go out of their way to preach submission to an -heretical Government. It is hardly to be expected that they would do so. - -[Illustration: THE THATHA-NA-BAING.] - -After this Thathanabaing had condescended to return, as runs the -Burmese euphemism for the death of a monk, it was some years before -Government made up its mind as to the appointment of a successor. No -one could lawfully be Thathanabaing unless appointed by the ruling -power. But it was contrary to established principle for Government -to appoint a Buddhist ecclesiastic. For some years the monastic -world was given up to anarchy. At last it was decided that, though -Government could not appoint, it might recognize; and though it could -not give material aid, it might lend moral support. To ascertain the -monk who would be generally acceptable, an election was held. This -device has now been adopted on two or three occasions, so that people -have begun to believe that it was always customary. The last two -holders of the office have been formally recognized by the Government -of Burma; the present Thathanabaing received a sanad[182] from the -Lieutenant-Governor. He is a monk of learning, and particular suavity -of manner and disposition. While maintaining due reserve and dignity, -he has always been on excellent terms with Government and its officers. -He has loyally exercised his influence on the side of law and order, -and has tried to smooth the path of the Education Department, anxious -to link the monastic with the Government system. Without posing as -liberal or progressive, he has been wise and conciliatory. In later -years my personal relations with the Thathanabaing were extremely -cordial. Once he honoured me by his presence at a garden-party in -Mandalay. This was, I think, an unprecedented occasion. On the lovely -lawn fringing the moat he sat, surrounded by yellow-robed counsellors, -the centre of a picturesque circle, watched with reverence by Burmese, -with respectful interest by European and Indian, guests. Among my most -treasured possessions is a rosary which he sent me, with a charming -farewell letter, when I left the Province. - -The order of Buddhist nuns must not be forgotten. They are comparatively -few in number, and, though regarded with respect, do not seem to -exercise special influence. Living sometimes in seclusion, sometimes in -communities, they occupy no prominent place. Their lives are spent in -meditation and devotion, free from secular cares. Often when stricken -by a great sorrow a woman becomes a nun, and adheres to her profession -for the rest of her life. Innocent, harmless ladies, if they are not -active in good works their passive piety is a gracious example. A nun -whom you meet in the road has a pleasing habit of invoking a blessing -as you pass. - -Buddhism as professed by the Burmese is of a high and pure type. In -Burma, and in Burma alone throughout India,[183] Buddhism is a vital -force. The suggestion that religion is in danger, or that monks have -been ill-used, is the surest way to rouse popular feeling. The ethics -of Buddhism are as lofty and inspiring as those of any faith in the -world. Obviously Burmans do not invariably shape their lives in strict -accordance with the precepts of the law. But in spite of failings and -shortcomings, the spiritual and moral force of their religion sheds a -penetrating influence on national life and character. Though its every -rule may be daily violated, Buddhism does tend to make Burmans humane, -tolerant, kind-hearted, charitable. All Burmans are well-grounded in -the mysteries of their faith. When they sin, they sin against light -and conscience. In all but the most abandoned, traces of the good -influence of their religion are evident. One very pleasing effect -is extension of benevolence in theory always, in practice often, to -every sentient being. Consider, for instance, the kindly attitude -of Burmans to lower animals. From the plump bullocks which draw the -primitive, creaking[184] carts of the country to the pariah dogs -which swarm in every village, or the pigs which used to scavenge the -streets of Mandalay (whose chase, not by the Burmese, was the only form -of pig-sticking known in Burma), all are objects of compassion and -care. The Burman's robust bullocks, nourished on their mothers' milk, -contrast pleasingly with the lean kine of the Indian. You will even -see a pious Burman save a deadly snake from destruction, and set it -loose in a place of security. This, perhaps, is an extreme instance of -logical regard for principle. - -Signs of the extent to which religion forms part of everyday life -strike the most casual observer. The country is full of pagodas, -monasteries, theins,[185] images of the Buddha, zayats. Pagodas vary in -size from the stately Shwe Dagon to the humble fane on the outskirts -of a village. It may be worth while to explain that a pagoda is not -a temple in which worshippers pay their devotions. It is a solid -structure, often built over sacred relics, of varying type, the most -prevalent being that of the great pagoda at Rangoon. Some pagodas are -richly gilded, others merely whitewashed. Each is crowned with a ti, -if possible studded with jewels. The very topmost pinnacle is often -an inverted soda-water bottle, a primitive shield against lightning. -Monks must have monasteries. These also differ in glory, from the great -buildings, richly ornamented with carving covered with gold, founded by -the King or Queen or some high official, which adorn the royal city, -to the mat and thatched hut which shelters the poor village monk. A -Burman who amasses wealth, the farmer who has an abundant harvest -and good prices, the merchant whose venture has been successful, the -rich broker or money-lender, does not hoard his gains. He spends them -on jewels for his wife and daughters, on silks for these ladies and -himself, on building a monastery, or a pagoda, a zayat, incidentally on -a pwe[186] or an ahlu.[187] The builder of a pagoda is a Paya-taga, of -a monastery a Kyaung-taga, honorific titles in familiar use, as common -as the title of Colonel is said to be in the United States. Laymen are -associated in religious observances. A monastery has a lay attendant, -a Kappiya-taga, who makes it his business to see that the building is -maintained and duly swept and garnished. Every eighth day is set apart -by the pious for religious observances, for meditation, for visiting -a pagoda, for attendance at a monastery to hear the Law expounded. -Each year there is a long Lenten period (Wa), when abstinence and -religious practices are enjoined on the faithful, when good Buddhists -refrain from marrying, when monks remain secluded in their monasteries, -undertaking no journeys. A monk reckons his monastic life by the -number of Lents he has observed. All this sounds rather gloomy, and -in theory Buddhism ought to have a depressing effect. It teaches the -transitoriness and mutability of this world and of all human things. -No personal God smiles on his worshippers or listens to their prayers. -This life is an evil in itself, a period to be spent in the acquisition -of merit, in preparation for the ascent to a higher plane. The goal -of every man's striving is the blessed rest of Nirvana (Neikban), a -state, not of annihilation, but of rest for many ages from passion -and all transitory disturbance. For even the rest of Nirvana is not -eternal. After many aeons, it may be, the unceasing round begins again. -The practical effect of this austere creed is quite different. Nowhere -is there a more gay and light-hearted people. To balance the days and -months of abstinence, religious festivals are of frequent occurrence. -Then the roads are crowded with cart-loads of merry holiday-makers. -Pagoda platforms are filled with bright-clad, laughing throngs. Pwes -and all national sports are celebrated. On every side are gaiety and -good-humour, the basis of religion underlying all. It is not for me to -attempt to explain these apparent inconsistencies. - -The people in general soon made up their minds that there was no -intention of interfering with their religion. And, in spite of isolated -instances, the monks accepted the new order with resignation, if not -with enthusiasm. The tolerant spirit of Buddhism pervades all classes. -Strangers wander unmolested and without meeting scowling looks in the -precincts of pagodas and holy places; they are welcome to explore the -recesses of monasteries, observing only common politeness and decorum. -You are not expected to take off your shoes on reaching the sacred -limits of a pagoda or monastery. Ordinary courtesy doubtless impels you -to remove your hat in a sacred building. It is not really correct to -walk across the sleeping mat of a Sadaw,[188] as I saw done by a lady -who should have known better. The Sadaw only laughed, recognizing that -no offence was meant. - -Pagodas and sacred images are left to the care of the people -themselves, tempered by the benevolent patronage of the Archaeological -Survey. In too many cases these buildings and objects are left to the -process of natural decay. It seems to be somewhat more meritorious to -build a new shrine than to keep in repair an existing fabric. Probably -the builder of a new pagoda, for instance, earns all the merit for -himself, while a restorer shares it with the original founder. In the -case of edifices of special sanctity or conspicuous antiquarian or -architectural interest, arrangements have been made, at the instigation -of Government, to vest the property and management in legally appointed -trustees. The care and maintenance of sacred buildings and the due -appropriation of pious offerings are thus assured. Not only for the -Shwe Dagon Pagoda and the Arakan Pagoda at Rangoon and Mandalay -respectively, but for many shrines of less fame, trustees have been -appointed. This is the best way of securing the preservation of -religious buildings of inestimable interest. - -One of the most striking personalities in modern Burmese Buddhism is -the Ledi Sadaw. This remarkable man devoted some years of his life to -travelling through the country preaching and exhorting. His passionate -eloquence drew immense congregations. Wherever he went he was greeted -by enraptured throngs. Men and women vied in adoration of this saintly -personage, women loosing their hair and spreading it as a carpet for -his holy feet. His fervour and fiery zeal effected real revivals, -whether lasting or transitory I dare not say. Besides addressing public -assemblies, he obtained leave to enter jails and preach reformation -to the prisoners, apparently with good results.[189] In spite of the -extraordinary enthusiasm which he inspired and the honours thrust -upon him in his triumphal progress, he preserved unstained and -flawless, simplicity and humility of character. We are not wont to -regard with favour errant monks preaching here and there. Too often -their exhortations have tended to sedition, their liberty has been a -cloak for licence. Never for a moment did the Ledi Sadaw fall under a -shadow of suspicion as to the purity of his motives and conduct, or -the good intention of his pilgrimage. The ethical part of his sermons -consisted of fervent denunciations of intemperance, drinking, gambling, -opium-smoking, the pleasant vices most devastating among Burmans. In -no way inspired by any Government officer, he did not hold aloof from -the authorities, but desired to be on good terms with them. Speaking -to Colonel Maxwell,[190] who more than most of us won the intimate -confidence of Burmans, in all simplicity he said: - -"I am not sure that Government will approve my preaching. There will be -much loss of revenue; for when I have finished, all liquor and opium -shops will be closed for want of custom." - -With a clear conscience the Commissioner bade him go on and prosper, -assuring him that Government would be well pleased if so desirable -a result could be attained. The promised millennium has not yet -arrived. While heartily approving the Sadaw, we did not think it -expedient to make our approval conspicuous, lest plausibly, though -falsely, the suggestion might be made that he was an agent of the -Asoya.[191] A travelling set of the Buddhist scriptures was the only -mark of Government's appreciation. I had the privilege of one interview -with this extraordinary man. What chiefly impressed me was his weary -expression, as though the working of the fiery spirit had worn out the -frail tenement of the body. I am glad to hear that the Sadaw still -lives, and that his preaching days are not over. - -One of the last incidents of my residence in Burma may fitly conclude -this discursive chapter. Early in 1910 we were privileged to -receive what are believed to be genuine relics of the Buddha. They -were discovered by the Archaeological Survey near Peshawar. Their -authenticity has, I believe, been doubted. I hope I am not, to use the -happy phrase of an Irish friend, more prone than most men to swallow -mares'-nests. But to me the evidence of the genuine character of the -relics seems reasonably convincing. It was my fortunate lot to be -instrumental in securing the despatch of these precious remains to -Burma, where alone, as I have said, the pure spirit of Buddhism still -reigns; and to be present when, with due solemnity, at Government -House in Calcutta, the Viceroy graciously entrusted the casket and its -priceless contents to a deputation sent from Burma to receive them. -The relics were welcomed in Rangoon with demonstrations of pious -enthusiasm, and brought by a long procession to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, -where, for some days, they were exhibited for the edification of the -faithful. Thence they were taken to Mandalay and placed in the care of -the elders of the Arakan Pagoda till a separate suitable shrine can be -erected in custody of a duly constituted trust. - -[Illustration: A MONASTERY.] - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -UNDER SIR CHARLES CROSTHWAITE, 1887-1890 - - -Mr. C. H. T. Crosthwaite, soon afterwards Sir Charles Crosthwaite, -K.C.S.I., succeeded Sir Charles Bernard. He came enjoying the -confidence of the Viceroy, and in just expectation of the support -of the Government of India. Taking in hand at once the settlement -of the country, in the next four years he devoted his remarkable -administrative genius to the completion of the task. I cannot -becomingly express in full my humble appreciation and admiration of Sir -Charles Crosthwaite and the great work which he accomplished in Burma. -I hope it is not presumptuous of me to say that as an administrator -he ranks in the very highest class of Indian Statesmen, and is at -this moment by far the most distinguished member of our Service. -Never sparing himself, in those eventful years he initiated, guided, -directed, controlled. In his officers he inspired enthusiasm; we would -have fallen in harness to serve him or win his approval. We were always -sure of strong and efficient support, and had no fear, if things went -wrong, of being thrown to the dogs. Sir Charles Crosthwaite came to -a land still torn by internal strife; he left it a peaceful and -prosperous Province. I speak of what I know, for from first to last it -was my privilege to work immediately under him, to see the pulse of the -machine. Let those who wish to understand turn to the book[192] wherein -the story of the pacification is modestly told by the chief actor in -the drama. - -Early in March, 1887, the Chief Commissioner came to Mandalay, -retaining for a short time the separate Secretariat for Upper Burma. -Wisely distrusting the sanitary conditions of the palace, he took up -his quarters in a small house built on the city wall, intended as the -residence of a military police officer. It consisted of two or three -rooms under one of the pyathats.[193] On the first evening after the -Chief Commissioner's arrival we waited some time for dinner, as the -roof of the cook-room was blown off by a sudden gale. Since those days -the building has expanded, and has become a respectable Government -House. Thanks to the good taste of the Chief Engineer, Mr. H. J. -Richard, Burmese style has been preserved. The pyathat is the centre -of a range of buildings which might be a monastery or a section of the -Palace. Thus the house is a picturesque feature in the landscape, not -an outrage. With the moat and a stretch of green lawn on one side, and -pretty gardens on the other, commanding a fine view of Mandalay Hill -and the rugged western hillocks, it has every aesthetic quality. It -may be whispered that it is more beautiful to see than comfortable to -inhabit. - -Sir Charles Crosthwaite's first tour was undertaken for the purpose of -visiting the Ruby Mines district, then recently occupied. A military -station had been established on a lofty, somewhat bleak plateau, and -honoured with the name of Bernardm[)y]o. The civil headquarters were at -Mogok, the centre of the ruby mines. Reaching K[)y]an-hn[)y]at by steamer, -we rode to Sagadaung, at the foot of the hills, breakfasting midway -with Mr. R. C. Stevenson,[194] the subdivisional officer. The Chief -Commissioner's party consisted of the Personal Assistant[195] and -myself. At Sagadaung it was found that all the servants, panic-stricken -at the thought of plunging into savage wilds, had refused to leave the -steamer. The kit and stores had come on, but the only servants with us -were my Madrasi boy and a few chaprasis.[196] The Personal Assistant -was equal to the occasion. He invited all the officers of the Station -to dine with the Chief Commissioner, from whom the state of affairs -was concealed. "And," said he, "as our men are rather tired, will you -let your cooks help to get dinner ready?" These assistants he supplied -with stores and necessaries, and dinner was successfully achieved. -Next morning we rode up the hill to Bernardm[)y]o, where we were kindly -made honorary members of the mess and lodged as handsomely as Service -conditions allowed. I slept in a commissariat godown,[197] with the -wind, cold even in April, whistling through the openings in the boarded -floor. After a day or two we rode on to Mogok, through lovely evergreen -forest which still shades the bridle-path. There we were guests of the -Deputy Commissioner, the late Mr. G. M. S. Carter, who cherished us -till we reached the river and our steamer once more. Never, I ween, not -even in the Spartan days of Sir Arthur Phayre, did a Chief Commissioner -make an official tour in his Province with only a third of a boy and a -stray chaprasi or two as bearer,[198] khitmagar,[199] and cook. - -The Ruby Mines Company was still in embryo, but the syndicate out of -which it was evolved had established a footing, and Mr. F. Atlay, who -still manages its affairs, was already installed. The quest for rubies -was prosecuted by the hereditary miners, who worked by primitive native -methods. In the King's time rubies were, naturally, a royal monopoly, -and any stone of exceptional value was a royal perquisite. The most -illustrious stone on record was called, after its finder, Chin Nga -Mauk. The lucky man himself took it to the Palace, and was privileged -to lay it at the King's feet. As a reward he was allowed to take -away a cart-load of whatever he liked from the Palace. The legend of -the discovery of the mines may be told. Passing through a desolate, -unpeopled land, a wayfarer saw a vulture swoop from a solitary rock -and pick up a piece of, as it seemed to wayfarer and apparently to -vulture, raw red flesh. Surprised at such a phenomenon in a waste -place, the traveller investigated, and found the earth strewn with -lovely glittering red stones, thenceforth known as the rubies of -commerce. The truth of the story is proved by the existence to this -day of the rock on which the vulture perched. Times have changed, and -rubies are no longer picked up on the surface. Nor are they found -embedded in the stone walls of Aladdin's caves. They are extracted by -washing from ruby-bearing earth (b[)y]on), which is borne in trucks to -the Company's washing sheds. Each truck contains, I suppose, about -twelve cubic feet of earth; the average value is about one shilling. -But any load may produce a stone worth a King's ransom. Besides the -scientific operations of the company, mining by native methods is -still practised. The rights of hereditary miners are preserved. They -pursue the quest after the manner of their fathers, on payment of a -moderate licence-fee. The very poor, mostly women, may glean in the -beds of streams without any restriction. Ruby-mining was a profitable -business, with a pleasing element of chance. Some lucky miners amassed -large fortunes. Even the common people were affluent. The smallest coin -current in the bazaar was a silver two-anna (2d.) piece. Coppers were -unknown. In later days the Chief Commissioner or Lieutenant-Governor's -receptions at Mogok were ceremonies of much splendour. Followed by -scores of mounted men who came to meet him, he rode through the town -under triumphal arches gleaming with silken banners, past lines of -cheering spectators, groups of dancers, and cymbal-clashing musickers, -while pretty, shy Shan girls peeped from the casements. An incident -of one of these visits, though it has nothing to do with rubies or -ceremonious receptions, may be recorded by way of comic relief. The -scene was the parade-ground; the occasion, an inspection of the -Military Police Battalion; the time, the end of summer. The ground was -wet and slippery from an early unexpected shower. After the accustomed -evolutions, the Commandant, an exceptionally smart, well-turned-out -officer, came galloping up to the Lieutenant-Governor, and as he -essayed to pull up within a yard of that august personage his pony -slipped and deposited him in the mud at his feet. Nowise abashed, he -rose, gravely saluted: "Would you like to see anything else, sir?" "No, -thank you," was the equally grave reply. And the incident closed, to -their credit, be it told, not one of the staff moving a muscle. As the -story goes, they waited to laugh till they got home. - -On our return from the first visit, our baggage borne on mules, we -rode to Thabeik-kyin along a mule-track following approximately the -line of the present road. The narrow path wound through and about the -hills, often with a yawning precipice on one hand, a wall of rock on -the other. But that the road is broad and smooth, in many respects it -resembles the old path. Ponies have still a horrid habit of hugging -the cliff's edge, and one rides with a leg suspended over the abyss. -To meet a train of pack-bullocks charging down the pass is a trying -experience. So, too, is the ascent in a motor-car with a driver -learning his work. Green forest covers the hillsides and luxuriates in -the valleys, brilliant with many-coloured blooms. The cicala fills the -open spaces with sound, so great a noise by so small a body. It was -then all new and full of interest. The beauty of the landscape charmed -every step of the march. Our guide was a handsome ruffian, Bo Aw, as -picturesque as the scene, who rode ahead in Shan dress, his flapping -straw hat decked with gay streamers. Afterwards he returned to the life -of a dacoit, and, I fear, came to a bad end. - -Soon after this, the Mandalay Secretariat ceased to exist as a separate -branch, one Secretariat, with a Chief Secretary, Secretary, Junior -Secretary, and Assistant Secretary, being constituted in Rangoon for -the whole Province. Mr. Symes became Chief Secretary, but, worn out -by many labours, went on leave, Mr. Donald Smeaton[200] coming from -India to act for him. I became Secretary, and Mr. C. G. Bayne, Junior -Secretary. The anomalous post of Special Commissioner was abolished, -Mr. Hodgkinson going to Moulmein as Commissioner. Mr. Smeaton was not -new to the Province. Some years before he had come to Burma to fill the -newly created office of Revenue Secretary and Director of Agriculture. -In that capacity he had devised and organized the Supplementary Survey -system, afterwards called the Land Records Department. This was, I -believe, an entirely original scheme, of which the design was to keep -land records and maps up to date, year by year, so as to obviate the -labour of re-survey whenever a Settlement had to be revised. In theory -the plan was admirable; its practical success has not been perfect, -partly, I think, because the establishment was inadequate. Mr. Smeaton -also organized and set to work the first regular Settlement Parties in -Burma. From 1887 onwards he served as Chief Secretary, Commissioner, -and Financial Commissioner, failing, however, in the end to attain the -high office for which his rare abilities seemed to designate him. The -Chief Secretary took over the political department, and for a time my -association with the most interesting part of the administration was -severed. I had plenty to do in my own branches. - -The Secretary was in charge of State prisoners, a few of whom, -members of the late reigning family of Delhi, still survived. The -ex-King, Bahadur Shah, who had been tried and sentenced to death for -his share in the massacre of English men and women, had been spared -the extreme penalty and sent to Rangoon, where he died in exile. -His widow, the Begam Zinath Mahal, was in Rangoon in my charge. She -and her daughter-in-law were of such exalted rank that they were -not parda-nashin[201] to English officers. More than once I saw -the old Begam who, thirty years before, had played so lurid a part -in the Mutiny. Though now of advanced age, she retained traces of -great beauty and was specially proud of her finely shaped, delicate -hands. Her beauty was of the Pit, aquiline, dark, menacing. Her son, -Prince Jawan Bakht (P. J. Bakht, as he used quaintly to style himself -on his visiting cards), the direct representative of the Moguls, -lived in Rangoon with his wife, Shah Zamani Begam, of the race of -Nadir Shah, the Persian Conqueror. Jawan Bakht was not of specially -marked character, amiable and harmless. His wife was a lady of charm -and dignity, worthy of her lofty lineage. In her youth beautiful -exceedingly, time had but little marred that lovely face. Poor lady, -she was totally blind, but the disease which had darkened her sight -left no disfigurement and hardly dimmed the lustre of her radiant eyes. -She spoke the purest Urdu, in liquid tones sweeter than any I have ever -heard in that graceful tongue. Beyond words pathetic it was to see and -converse with this lady of a great family, keeping to the last the -pride of her race and station, with every mark of a gentle and gracious -disposition, reduced to comparative poverty, and sharing without a -murmur the hard lot of the last scion of a fallen dynasty. Jawan Bakht -and Shah Zamani Begam have long been gathered to their fathers. Their -son and daughter, Mirza Jamshid Bakht and Ronak Begam, last of the line -of Babar and Akbar and Aurangzib, still live in Rangoon in receipt -of miserable stipends. It is true that the decadent Moguls did not -deserve well at our hands. Bahadur Shah and Zinath Mahal were treated -even more leniently than they merited. But their surviving descendants -are innocent of complicity in their crimes. Politically, they have -never given the slightest trouble; Mohammedans seem hardly aware of -their existence. Somewhat more generous treatment might be accorded -them. Their pensions might be made sufficient to enable them to live in -reasonable comfort. - -Another interesting State pensioner, not a prisoner, was Prince Hassan, -adopted son of Sultan Suleiman, leader of the Panthay[202] rebellion -in Yunnan. When, finally overthrown, Suleiman died by his own hand -to avoid capture, Hassan luckily was in Rangoon. There he stayed for -the rest of his life, in receipt of an allowance from the Indian -Government. Precisely on what grounds the grant to Hassan of a pension -from Indian revenues was justified, I have never clearly understood. -But all who knew him must be glad that any technical difficulties -were overcome. Most charming and courteous of men, Hassan was in some -respects the most attractive of the native notables of my acquaintance. -He spent his time quietly in study, occasionally paying the Secretary -a friendly visit. Ronak Begam became his wife. Some years later, after -many wanderings and much tribulation, the Panthay wife of his youth, -whom he had believed to be dead, appeared and resumed her natural -position in his house. Ronak Begam, who could hardly be expected to -take the second place, returned to her family. Hassan died some years -ago. There are a good many Panthays in Upper Burma, principally in -Mandalay, Bhamo, Mogok, and the Shan States, sturdy men of stalwart -stature and agreeable manners, assiduous traders, and good citizens. -With several I was on friendly terms. My best friend among them one -day brought his very aged and wrinkled mother to see me and bade her -shake hands. The old dame obeyed, but pudically covered her hand with a -kerchief before clasping mine. - -For a few months in 1888 I acted as Commissioner of the Northern -Division, the second officer to hold that appointment. Including the -royal city, the Katha district on the borders of Wuntho, the Ruby -Mines, the Kachin Hills, the China frontier, the division has always -seemed the most interesting in the Province. To me who had been -associated with Mandalay from the beginning, the position was specially -attractive. The place was full of my Burmese friends by whom I was -cordially welcomed. The appointment was temporary, though at first this -was not the Chief Commissioner's intention. As a somewhat maladroit -acquaintance, meeting me at the club on my arrival, frankly said: "Of -course, you will be here only till a senior man can be sent." It was -true, but he need not have rubbed it in. - -Unlike most other officers, Commissioners draw a fixed monthly -travelling allowance. It is therefore a point of honour with them to -spend a good deal of time away from headquarters. In the Northern -Division the cost of travelling was high, and the monthly allowance -was never a source of profit. An early tour brought me to Bhamo, after -being nearly swamped by a sudden squall. Signs of violence were still -common. The Captain of the steamer assured me that quite lately he -had seen corpses floating down the river "dreadfully emancipated." At -Bhamo I was shocked to find that the day before my arrival Bo Ti, one -of the rebel leaders of Mogaung, had escaped from the primitive wooden -jail. He was never recaptured. With him went a young Indian who was -under trial for attempting to murder the Colonel of a native regiment. -The Colonel I found convalescent. He was a hard man, and sepoys had -often threatened to shoot him. As he was shaving one morning he felt -a shock, and knew that he was wounded. Thinking that the threat had -been carried out, the stout old man said to himself, "They shan't know -they have hit me," and went on shaving. It was really his own servant, -who from behind had slashed him with a sword. Owing to the Colonel's -grim determination not to let the sepoy know that he had scored, his -assailant got in another blow. This is the story as I heard it. The -Colonel, a bulky, muscular man, recovered from wounds which would -probably have killed one of slighter build. It was doubtless by the -agency of this young Indian that the guard of the jail was corrupted -and the prisoner's escape facilitated. He, too, made his way to the -Kachin country, and was never caught. Vague rumours of his presence in -the frontier fights of the next few years were current. I hope he did -not have a very good time in the hills. - -A story of Bhamo of later years may be told here. A military police -sepoy ran "amuck," as they say. Armed with a rifle and well supplied -with ammunition, he took possession of a masonry house, and from a -casement amused himself by shooting at anyone who came in sight. The -house was duly surrounded by police, and the Deputy Commissioner and -District Superintendent came down. It did not occur to them to summon -infantry and guns from the neighbouring fort, or to fire volleys at the -brick walls. The Superintendent, Mr. H. F. Hertz,[203] obtained a rough -description of the interior of the house, and entered it from next -door. Groping in the semi-darkness characteristic of native houses, -he made his way to the room next to that held by the sepoy. Hearing a -sound, the sepoy half-opened the door and thrust out his rifle. Pushing -the rifle aside with one hand, Mr. Hertz shot the man dead with his -revolver, receiving a slight wound in the encounter. This is the way -these things are managed in Burma. - -Bhamo was then the headquarters of the district which included the -country bordering on China and Tibet, all the present Myitkyina -district, Mogaung, and the Jade Mines. The column under Major C. H. E. -Adamson, which visited Mogaung and the Jade Mines, had just returned, -having secured the submission of Kansi La and Kansi Naung, the Kachin -chiefs of the Jade Mines tract.[204] Soon afterwards occurred the -assault on Mogaung, gallantly repulsed by Gurkha military police -under Captain Hugh O'Donnell[205] and Mr. Lawrence Eliott. Close to -China, from which it is separated by a range of hills, Bhamo is filled -by a strange variety of races. Chinese, stalwart traders of Yunnan; -Panthays, survivors of the great rebellion; Shans, Shan-Chinese, -Shan-Burmans, Kachins of many divers tribes, give life and colour and -speak a Babel of tongues in the bazaar. Driving along one of the roads -leading out of the town, the traveller is impressed by a sign-post -bearing the legend-- - - TO CHINA. - -Not many miles away the peaks of the Kachin Hills rise in the eastern -sky. Across these hills come caravans[206] from T'Engyueeh (Momien) and -Manwaing, in those days paying toll to the Kachins for leave to pass. -Through these hills marched the ill-fated Margary before he attempted -his fatal return journey. Through them in later days, with happier -omens, walked Dr. Morrison at the end of his adventurous pilgrimage. A -few miles below the town of Bhamo the Irrawaddy runs through a narrow, -rock-bound gorge known as the Second Defile. Conspicuous on the right -bank looms the tall Elephant Rock, crowned by a small golden pagoda. -I have had the rare experience of passing through the defile by the -light of the full moon. The silver light on the towering crags, the -silence and the solitude, created an effect full of mystery and charm. -Emerging from the defile, we reach the town of Shwegu, whence, gazing -on the sunset painting with gorgeous colours the western hills, one -realizes "the incomparable pomp of eve." Above Bhamo the river pierces -a still more gloomy, precipitous, whirlpool-haunted gorge, the First -Defile. In the dry months, from November to April, this defile is -navigable by launches, and with reasonable care the passage can be made -without risk. In the rains it is closed to all traffic except that of -country boats and timber rafts. Once, long ago, two gallant officers -came through in a launch as late as May. They had no wish to repeat -the experiment. When in full flood, to traverse the defile even in a -boat is an adventure requiring nerve and skill. On the upward course -the boat is towed laboriously for many weary days. If the rope slips, -the work of days may be lost in a few minutes. Down-stream the journey -is far more rapid and even more hazardous. I do not think any British -officer has been drowned in the defile, but several of my friends -have lost their baggage. At least one launch lies in its fathomless -depths. At any time the passage through the defile is full of interest -and excitement. Nothing can surpass the wild beauty of its winding, -rock-bound course. Here, in mid-stream, a sharp boulder has to be -shunned; there careful steering is needed lest the vessel be spun round -in a whirlpool; now we seem to be driving straight against a wall of -stone. To leave Burma without traversing the First Defile is to miss -one of the sights of the world. - -Another tour led me across the Shwebo district, then in the Northern -Division, where my old friend Mr. B. K. S. MacDermott was in charge. -The township officer was Maung Tun, K.S.M., afterwards Extra Assistant -Commissioner, a local officer of remarkable ability and of proved -courage and loyalty. His father, Bo Pyin, had been Wun of Shwebo, and -had retired at an advanced age. He is the man already mentioned who -shocked his pious serious-minded son by retaining his passion for the -chase. - -Here is the city of Alaungpaya; here Mindon Min raised the standard of -revolt against his brother. Shwebo was always a turbulent district, -the seed-bed of sedition; it retained that character long after the -annexation. At this time it was fairly quiet; we rode through it with -a moderate escort. As we left the town we saw approaching a long line -of Burmans, in carts and on foot, men, women, and children. "All these -people," said the Deputy Commissioner with pride, "are coming in to -my new bazaar." On inquiry, we ascertained that they were really all -coming in to be vaccinated. This is an example of the good sense and -lack of prejudice so often found among Burmans. Years before, the -people of Pantanaw had begged for a vaccinator. If proper facilities -were provided, the whole population of Burma could be vaccinated -without recourse to compulsion. Only the inefficiency and corruption -of an underpaid staff and the untrustworthy quality of the lymph have -retarded this desirable consummation. I am glad to say that these -defects have now been, or are in process of being, remedied. - -From Shwebo we crossed the Katha district and came to Kawlin on the -verge of the Shan State of Wuntho.[207] This State, inconveniently -situated in the midst of regularly administered districts, was -left under its native chief till the year 1891. Shortly before the -annexation the Sawbwa, a capable truculent man, had been transferred -as Wun to Mogaung for the purpose of suppressing a Kachin rising. He -accomplished the task with devastating completeness. In Wuntho he -was succeeded by his son, a timid creature quite unlike the savage -swashbuckler who begot him. Vain efforts had been made to induce the -young chief to meet our officers, Mr. Burgess himself and the Kinwun -Mingyi having visited Wuntho for the purpose without success. Once the -Sawbwa did meet Mr. E. P. Cloney, Extra Assistant Commissioner. The -issue was unfortunate. At the conference, owing to a misunderstanding, -a tumult arose and the Shan retainers drew their swords. Mr. Cloney's -life would have been sacrificed but for the presence of mind of the -Sawbwa, who clasped him in his arms and shielded him from attack. This -is the solitary occasion on which the Sawbwa showed any sign of courage -or resolution. Only once again he met a British officer, Mr. H. F. P. -Hall,[208] afterwards Assistant Commissioner. Though I went to Wuntho -with only half a dozen sowars, the Sawbwa declined the meeting and -bolted to his remote fortress at Pinlebu. When, owing to the survey of -the projected railway-line, the long-existing tension became acute, -the Sawbwa, after wantonly attacking the adjacent districts, fled with -his father to China. The old man is dead. The son survives in exile -in Yunnan, having long ceased to be an object of apprehension or of -interest to the Burma Government. The State of Wuntho is merged in the -Katha district. - -From August, 1888, till the end of 1890, I acted as Chief Secretary, -Mr. C. G. Bayne being Secretary, and in succession Mr. A. S. Fleming, -Mr. F. C. Gates,[209] and Mr. D. H. R. Twomey,[210] Junior (or Under) -Secretary. These were years of abnormal stress in the office, which -was still undermanned. The appointment of Mr. Fryer to be Financial -Commissioner afforded us some relief. But though a good deal of his -work was done in direct communication with the Chief Commissioner, part -of the revenue business necessarily was transacted by the Secretariat. -These were my really strenuous years. The practice of dictation to -shorthand writers was not yet in vogue; I have never acquired the -habit. Day after day, Sundays included, I did my spell of work in -office and then wrote on far into the night at home, kept awake by -coffee and protected from mosquitoes by Burman cheroots. Six hours of -sleep sufficed. Though I wrote rapidly, I was not a quick worker. I -dare say other men would have done as much with less effort. Life in -the Secretariat presented few incidents which seem worthy of record. -The real work was being done in the districts, in the Shan States, in -the Chin Hills. - -These years witnessed the completion of the pacification and settlement -of Upper Burma, and what may be called the resettlement of Lower Burma. -The details of the work in Upper Burma have been described in Sir -Charles Crosthwaite's book.[211] The organization of the military and -civil police was perfected by the administrative ability of General -Stedman, the Inspector-General, who was a tower of strength to the -Government. Dacoit bands were dispersed, their leaders captured or -killed, the rank and file in many cases allowed to surrender and -return to their homes on suitable terms. Admirable, unobtrusive work -was done by military, civil, and police officers, who by degrees bore -down opposition and broke the forces of disorder. The most potent -instrument in the final establishment of settled administration was the -village law planned by Sir Charles Crosthwaite himself. This invaluable -enactment created the village as the unit of administration, and placed -the village headman in a position of authority and responsibility. He -became the local judge and magistrate, with limited but sufficient -power to enforce his orders. As far as possible the office was -made hereditary, but the people were consulted in the appointment. -Henceforth the post, though not one of great emolument, instead of -being avoided, was eagerly sought.[212] The village law did much -more than elevate the headman. It enforced the joint responsibility -of villagers for offences committed within their borders, for stolen -property traced to the village tract. The Deputy Commissioner -was legally empowered to require villages to be duly fenced. All -able-bodied men were bound under penalties to turn out to resist any -unlawful attack. Above all, subject to carefully devised safeguards, -power was given to the local authorities to order the temporary removal -of persons found to be in sympathy with outlaws. No measure was more -efficacious than this to secure the destruction of dacoit gangs by -depriving them of support and sustenance. These are among the most -important provisions of the village law which has done more than gun -and sword to assure permanent peace. The revenue system was formalized -as far as our limited knowledge allowed on the lines of Burmese law and -custom. Meanwhile, the border lands were not neglected. Of the Shan -States some mention will be made presently. The Chins might have lived -unmolested in their hills, but they could not give up their rooted -habit of raiding villages in the plains. The plundering of peaceful -hamlets, the carrying off of living captives and the heads of the -slain, provoked inevitable reprisals. Happily the policy of slaying, -burning, and scuttling was not adopted. After laborious operations, the -Chins were thoroughly subjugated and disarmed. Military police posts -were established in their midst. They are now peaceful and amenable to -law. The names honourably associated with the arduous task of settling -these rugged hills are those of Major F. D. Raikes, C.I.E., General -Sir W. Penn Symons, Mr. B. S. Carey, C.I.E., Mr. D. Ross, Mr. D. J. C. -Macnabb,[213] Captain F. M. Rundall,[214] Mr. E. O. Fowler, and Mr. H. -N. Tuck. Here, too, Captain Le Quesne[215] won the Victoria Cross by -gallantly tending a wounded officer under fire from a stockade. The -Kachin Hills and the State of Wuntho alone remained for settlement in -later years. - -No detailed story of the restoration of order in Lower Burma has -yet been given to the world; nor does it lie within the scheme of -these personal reminiscences to supply the omission. The outbreak of -disturbance at the end of 1885 has already been mentioned. For years -crime continued to be rampant. A few figures may be given. In 1886 the -number of dacoities was 2,183; in 1887, 1,387; in 1888, 695; in 1889, -332; in 1890, 181. Serious risings there were: one in Tavoy in 1888, -quelled by Colonel Adamson and Mr. Twomey; one in Sandaway, sternly -repressed by Mr. Bernard Houghton, who at the outset nearly fell a -victim to the insurgents. But in the period now under reference it was -not so much a question of dealing, as in Upper Burma, with organized -resistance on a large scale as of suppressing countless small, isolated -gangs. The strict enforcement of the Village Act, framed on the lines -indicated above, and vigorous disarmament carried out in the face of -ignorant and factious criticism, were among the most efficient means -of restoring peace. The plan of placing a defined area in charge -of a specially selected officer invested with large powers for the -suppression of crime was tried with excellent effect. Pyuntaza, in -Shwegyin, was reduced to order by Mr. Todd-Naylor, to whom the Chief -Commissioner gave a free hand with abundant support. Boldest, most -strenuous, most untiring of men, traversing vast distances with -incredible speed on the scantiest fare, facing every danger and -enduring every hardship, there, and soon afterwards in Tharrawaddy, Mr. -Todd-Naylor earned great and well-merited renown. For the first, and so -far the only, time in its history, Tharrawaddy was at rest. In every -district solid work was done, and by degrees normal conditions were -established. - -An event which I recall with interest was the visit to Rangoon of -the celebrated traveller, Mr. Colborne Baber, of the China Consular -Service, deputed to Burma in connection with the proposed demarcation -of the Chinese boundary. Baber was one of the elect of travellers. Not -only did he make hazardous and scientifically important journeys, but -he also had the gift of letters, so that his records have a place in -literature. A man of genius, a born explorer, of various and versatile -accomplishments, he was, I believe, a sinologist of distinction, -and certainly a scholar of no mean attainment. Before proceeding to -Bhamo to study the boundary question on the spot, he was our guest -for some days in Rangoon. These are days of happy memory, made bright -by his luminous and inspiring talk, his distinguished and attractive -personality. He seemed to live principally on cigarettes, and cared -too little for a body not physically strong. Early in 1890 he died -at Bhamo, mainly from weakness caused by his own neglect of material -comfort. His premature death was a loss to the State, and a lasting -grief to his friends. - -More than once in these two years I visited Mandalay in attendance on -the Chief Commissioner, sometimes occupying my old quarters in the -Palace, sometimes enjoying the hospitality of Government House. One -trivial incident illustrates the state of the country even close to -the capital of Upper Burma. Rather late one night a friend[216] called -me out of my quarters to go to see a fire. Having seen as many fires -as would satisfy the most morbid craving, I cannot think why this fire -attracted me. However, we went. As usual, the scene was much farther -off than we thought. Passing out of the city gate, we walked for some -miles across the fields till we came at last to a village where houses -were still blazing. It had been plundered and burnt by Bo To, the most -prominent leader then afoot in the district. The police were there -before us, and the dacoits had disappeared. As we were alone, armed -only with walking-sticks, perhaps it was lucky that we did not arrive -an hour or two sooner. - -The last day of February, 1889, saw the formal opening of the railway -from Toungoo to Mandalay. The occasion was celebrated with some pomp, -Sir Charles Eliott,[217] K.C.S.I., Public Works Member, representing -the Government of India. Later in the year, during the absence of -Sir Charles Crosthwaite on privilege leave for three months, Mr. A. -P. MacDonnell,[218] Home Secretary to the Government of India, acted -as Chief Commissioner. Mr. MacDonnell was, of course, innocent of -any knowledge of the country or the people. I doubt whether this -brief interlude of administering a strange Province could have been -a satisfactory experience to him. I am under the impression that the -Chief Secretary's work was materially increased. - -At the end of 1889 Burma was honoured by the visit of His Royal -Highness Prince Albert Victor of Wales (the late Duke of Clarence), who -spent some days in Rangoon and Mandalay. The Royal visit was highly -appreciated by the Burmese, as well as by the European community, and -was celebrated with much demonstration of genuine spontaneous loyalty. -Chief of His Royal Highness's staff was the late Sir Edward Bradford, -whose high qualities it were superfluous to praise. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -A VISIT TO THE SHAN STATES - - -The Shan States occupy the whole of the eastern side of Upper Burma, -and border on French Indo-China, China, and Siam. It is sometimes -erroneously supposed that they are independent or semi-independent -States, on the same footing as native States in India. From Theinni -in the north to Mobye in the south, from the Myelat in the west to -Kyaington in the far east, these States were an integral part of the -Burmese kingdom, over which the Burmese assertion of sovereignty -was never abandoned or successfully resisted. Burmese Residents and -garrisons were maintained. Though there were rebellions, revolts, -and massacres, though in King Thebaw's time the bonds of authority -were loosened, independence was never established. Each State was -administered by its own chief, Sawbwa, Myosa, or Ngwekunhmu, appointed -or recognized by the Burmese Government, and very practically subject -to the King and his Council. Consequently, when we succeeded to the -sovereignty of Burma, the Shan States became as much an integral -part of British India as any district of Upper Burma. To speak of -the annexation of a Shan State is incorrect. Those States, such as -Wuntho and Kale, which have ceased to be governed by their own chiefs, -have been, not annexed, but taken under direct administration. The -distinction between the Shan States and the rest of Burma is one not -of political status, but of administrative method. The Legislative -Councils of India and Burma make laws for the Shan States as for other -parts of the Province. This power was exercised as long ago as 1886 -in the first Statute relating to Upper Burma. The principle has been -consistently maintained. The States which are really semi-independent, -subject to suzerainty, are those of Karenni. The historical explanation -is that before we took Upper Burma we strenuously maintained that -Karenni was not part of the King's dominions. When we succeeded to the -King's rights, we could not decently assert the contrary. But though -there is a theoretical distinction, in practice Karenni is as much -under control as the Shan States. - -[Illustration: PAGODA AT MONE.] - -In less than a year from the proclamation which incorporated Upper -Burma in the Empire, surely as speedily as could be expected, an -expedition was despatched to assert our authority in the Shan country. -Colonel Stedman[219] was in command, with Mr. A. H. Hildebrand[220] -and Mr. J. G. Scott[221] as civil officers. A full account of -the operations of the expedition has been given by Sir Charles -Crosthwaite.[222] I need not attempt to tell again the tale of -Mr. Hildebrand's conspicuous success: how he traversed the States, -receiving the submission of the Chiefs and confirming them in their -offices; how by tact and firmness, almost without striking a blow, he -imposed peace on this distracted country; how he became the friend and -monitor, as well as the strict supervisor, of every Chief. Nor must I -yield to the temptation to recount once more the story of Mr. Scott's -gallant feat of arms in the capture of Twet Nga Lu, or of his later -even more splendid display of the courage which dares the impossible -when, with a handful of Gurkhas, he brought to his knees in his own -capital the chief of Kyaington, the largest and most secluded of the -States. Are not these things written in the book so often quoted -in these pages? It is a far cry to the Shan country and across the -Salween, or these tales would be as familiar to Britons as any tale of -chivalry. - -Mr. Hildebrand became the first Superintendent of the Shan States. A -little later they were divided into two groups, Northern and Southern, -under two mutually independent Superintendents working in direct -communication with Government. The Shan States extend over an area -estimated at about 60,000 square miles. Here, as elsewhere in Burma, -our aim has been to administer as far as possible in accordance with -pre-existing custom. Each State is ruled by its own Chief, who has -the power of life and death, appoints his own officials, and manages -his own finances and domestic affairs. The Chiefs administer their -own customary law, subject to the provisions of a very simple code, -probably the shortest since the Decalogue, which lays down a few -general principles and prohibitions. Issued in 1890, it still remains -unaltered. The Chief is appointed by Government, and receives a sanad, -or order of appointment, defining his functions and limitations. He is -under the control of the Superintendent, and, to a less degree, of the -Assistant Superintendents in charge of subdivisions, into which the -States are distributed. These officers have by law extensive powers of -intervention and revision, but as far as possible they abstain from -active interference in the economy of the State. So, too, Government -ordinarily avoids exertion of direct authority, but, if occasion -requires, does not hesitate to deprive a chief of part of his powers, -to change the order of succession, to amalgamate adjacent territories, -to alter boundaries, even, as an extreme measure, to take a State -under direct administration. All receipts from forests and minerals -belong to the general revenues of the Province, rights over forests -and mines being reserved by Government. Subject to this reservation, -Government levies no taxes on the people. Each State pays a fixed sum -annually as tribute, the assessment being revised every ten years. The -demand is moderate, and at the decennial revision pleas for reduction -are indulgently considered. It need hardly be said that the chiefs -are required to keep the peace among themselves. They are responsible -for the good order of their territories, and maintain their own local -police in picturesque uniforms. There is also a small body of regular -police under the civil officers. The garrison consisted at first of -troops, then of military police, then partly of troops and military -police, now again of military police alone. Each group, the Southern -and the Northern, has its own battalion. Such, briefly and in outline, -is the way in which the Shan States were governed five-and-twenty -years ago; such is the way in which they are governed now. Probably -no dependency of so great an extent is administered so inexpensively -or with so little display of force. As a study in administration the -experiment is full of interest, and has been remarkably successful. -In five-and-twenty years there have naturally been changes and -improvements. At first the Chiefs lived for themselves, caring only -for their own ease and comfort, while, as was graphically said, "the -bloodsuckers around them were making hay." Now they are becoming more -enlightened, and beginning to realize their responsibilities. They are -learned in the mysteries of budgets and taxation rolls. Some take a -zealous interest in road-making, in digging canals, in promoting the -growth of new staples, in sanitation and medical relief. Many of the -Chiefs are courteous and intelligent gentlemen, who live on terms of -easy friendship with British officers. Several have visited India, -more are familiar with Rangoon and Mandalay. One Chief, formerly -very shy and reserved, now gallops on our polo-grounds. His ambition -was to visit Rangoon periodically for the purpose of gazing on the -ball-room at Government House, which reminded him of Heaven. When all -is said, it must be remembered that the chiefs are merely officers of -Government of no very high position, like other officers, holding their -appointments during good behaviour. - -The Shans,[223] remnants of the race which once dominated a vast empire -in Eastern Asia, including the whole of Northern Burma to the confines -of Tibet, are now somewhat backward in civilization. A clannish folk, -with the cohesion lacking among Burmans. If you get hold of the chief -you secure his people also. This no doubt facilitated the task of -settlement. Of fierce appearance, to us they seem unwarlike. Once at -least a conflict was stopped by a British officer adopting the simple -expedient of pitching his camp midway between two hostile armies. But -before our coming internecine feuds raged savage and devastating. Like -medieval barons, Chief warred against Chief, laying waste the country. -Populous cities reduced to ruinous heaps gave place to miserable -hamlets. Wide stretches of fertile land, thrown out of cultivation, -became deserts of jungle and tall grass where the tiger made his lair -and the elephant ranged at will. Under the firm and just rule which we -have substituted for the intermittent ferocity of Burmese dominion, the -Shan plateau is reviving, and once more promises to be an orchard and a -harvest-field. Scantiness of population and distance from markets alone -retard the cultivation of wheat, vegetables, and fruit. Now a railway -to the Southern States is being made. If it is not stopped in mid-air, -and if no parsimonious schemes hinder through communication, an era of -prosperity for the Shan country is at hand. - -Early in 1890, I accompanied Sir Charles Crosthwaite on the first visit -paid by a Chief Commissioner to the Southern Shan States. We rode from -the railway at Meiktila road (Thazi), past Hlaingdet, up and along the -customary mule-track to Kalaw, on the border of the Myelat[224] plain. -The cart-road was yet unmade. There was not a cart of any kind in the -Shan country. Kalaw lies in the midst of pine-forests, a perfectly -lovely spot, believed by many to be the future hill-capital of Burma. -It will be an important station on the new railway. Personally, I doubt -whether it will displace Maym[)y]o, though it may well be to Maym[)y]o -what Mussoorie is to Simla. From Kalaw we rode through the Myelat, -fine open country, but intersected by many ravines, to Nyaungywe, on -the edge of the Inle Lake. The chiefs of the Myelat States flocked -to meet the head of the Province, and with bands of wild retainers, -with much clashing of cymbals and beating of gongs, escorted him on -his march. Crossing the lake we came to Fort Stedman, then the civil -and military headquarters. Here the Chief Commissioner halted for -some days, interviewing local officers and many Shan notables, and -holding a Durbar, at which he addressed the assembled Chiefs. These -State visits to Fort Stedman and Taung-gyi, which afterwards became -the Superintendent's headquarters, were full of interest, certainly -to the visitors, probably also to the local inhabitants. I have -assisted at three such visits. From distant hills, from far across the -Salween, come multitudes of strange people eager to do honour to the -representative of their Sovereign. Weird dances by outlandish folk, -grotesque caperings some, others slow melancholy measures, expressed -the popular rejoicing. The lake was alive with boats competing in -exciting races. Men and women took part in these contests. Here you -might see the Sawbwa distribute prizes to victors and vanquished, these -races being of the nature of a caucus-race, and smearing with lime the -foreheads of the losers. You shall also see the lake-dwellers standing -and rowing with legs instead of arms, a difficult and, as one may -think, somewhat useless feat. Many young and ambitious officers have -sought to accomplish it, but in vain. The lake-men row in this way with -perfect ease and skill, but not, I think, faster than a boat paddled in -the ordinary style. - -[Illustration: THE PAUNGDAW--U FESTIVAL.] - -Fort Stedman is well situated in the State of Nyaungywe, one of the -largest and most prosperous of the Southern States. At the time of the -annexation, the Sawbwa was Saw Maung, a man of culture and education, -trained at the Court of Mandalay in all the learning of the Burmans. -Soon after, his cousin Chit Su rebelled against him. In the first fight -Saw Maung was severely wounded, being shot through both thighs. Very -confidingly, he placed his troops and arms at the disposal of his -brother, Saw On, who offered to suppress the revolt. Having done this -effectually, occupied the capital, and tasted the sweets of power, -Saw On declined to make way for the rightful Chief. Forced to retire, -Saw Maung with a small following established himself on the borders -of the Myelat. Thence, anxious to prevent more fighting, Government -summoned him to Mandalay and directed him to stay there in receipt -of an allowance. In the Shan States, as elsewhere, our policy was to -accept existing facts. If the Chief in actual possession was willing -to submit, he was confirmed in his office. When Mr. Hildebrand came -to Nyaungywe, he was warmly welcomed by Saw On, whom he rescued from -a position of much peril. Saw On, therefore, was recognized as Sawbwa -and held charge till his death some years later. He was the chief whom -Sir Charles Crosthwaite found in Nyaungywe, a boisterous uncivilized -person, with some sense of humour, whose loud laugh concealed a mind by -no means vacant of ability and cunning. At his death, Saw Maung[225] -was restored to his State. He proved an excellent ruler, probably the -most enlightened and progressive of the Shan chiefs, full of projects -for the good of his people, and exceedingly popular with all classes. -Though in the early days after his return the lake-men were ready to -rebel against him, not many years later, when Their Royal Highnesses -the Prince and Princess of Wales visited Mandalay, Saw Maung sat in -the boat of the leg-paddlers competing in a race on the moat. - -From Fort Stedman we returned by the way we came, the Chief Commissioner -for my sake considerately riding the last three marches in one day. -According to the original programme, if we had missed the train I -should have missed also the steamer which was to take me home on my -first leave. I caught the steamer and enjoyed the leave, which lasted -a few days over three months. I cannot say that I enjoyed the return -journey from Calcutta in the middle of the monsoon, seeing no sun nor -star, in a boat on which cockroaches of gigantic stature vied with -myriads of red ants in making life hideous. - -I remained in Rangoon as Chief Secretary till the end of the year, when -the Secretariat was reorganized and strengthened. Mr. Symes came back -as Chief Secretary. I was appointed to be a Divisional Commissioner, -but was seconded for duty as a Secretary till I went on furlough early -in 1891. Mr. Mackenzie[226] became Chief Commissioner, Sir Charles -Crosthwaite going to Council. The work of pacification and organization -was completed. Conscious of a great trust worthily discharged, the most -eminent of Burma's rulers moved on to fresh fields of action, less -thrilling but not less honourable. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -RANGOON--MANDALAY - - -When I returned early in 1893, Mr. Fryer was acting as Chief -Commissioner during Sir Alexander Mackenzie's absence on leave; Mr. -Symes was still Chief Secretary. For a few weeks I was on special duty -examining and abstracting the documentary evidence concerning the -boundary between Burma and China, then in the acute stage of discussion -between the two Governments. After this was done, for a short time -I held charge of the Pegu division. It was a most unsatisfactory -appointment. The Commissioner was still Sessions Judge, and, though -assisted by a coadjutor, took a full share of the original and -appellate work. Piled on top of the revenue and administrative duties, -this formed a mountain which no one could scale. However strenuously -the Commissioner laboured, however much he accomplished, he felt that -as much or more remained undone. This was worse than the Secretariat, -where, with diligence, one could keep abreast of the files. - -The one exciting incident of my brief tenure of this office was the -riot in Rangoon between Mohammedans and Hindus in June, 1893. In Burma -we were accustomed to a mild and tolerant religion, and had little -acquaintance with the fierce fanaticism of warring sects. We resented -bitterly the stirring up of strife by Mohammedans and Hindus in a -land where they were strangers and pilgrims, hospitably received and -treated with courtesy and consideration. Just as if guests should hurl -decanters at one another across their host's dinner-table. It is not -quite accurate to say that Burmans dislike and despise Indians. They -welcome them with large-hearted tolerance, and live amicably side by -side with them. But the Burman regards himself as a superior being, -much superior to anyone, except, perhaps, even this is doubtful, a -European. And he does resent Indians being placed in authority over him. - -The occasion of this unusual and unnecessary tumult was the Mohammedan -festival of Bakr-i-id. Though in Burma we have, I think, a slight -leaning to the side of Mohammedans, whose religion is less puzzling -to the lay mind than the abstruse mythology of the Hindus, I am bound -to say that this time the Mohammedans were entirely in the wrong. In -Twenty-ninth Street, a narrow thoroughfare of no good name, stood a -Hindu temple of some repute. Having the rest of Rangoon practically -at their disposal, the Mohammedans declared it essential to sacrifice -their cow close to this temple. Forbidden by the magistrate to do this, -it was expected that they would set at naught the prohibition. Such -precautions as seemed necessary were taken by the Deputy Commissioner, -Mr. A. S. Fleming, who was in close communication with me and with the -Chief Secretary, Mr. Fryer being absent on tour. We determined to do -the best with the police before calling out troops. Military and civil -police patrols were organized; and early on Sunday morning, the great -day of the feast, a fairly strong picket of military police, partly -Mohammedans and partly Hindus, was posted at the top of Twenty-ninth -Street. All local and civil officers, as well as others not immediately -concerned, were in the town. The streets were thronged with people, -Mohammedans in holiday attire, Hindus ready to make mischief, both -sides spoiling for a fight. From the top of Twenty-ninth Street -could be seen the great mosque in Mogul Street, crowded with excited -worshippers. For a time, though the tension was extreme, nothing -happened. One high official, who was present as a sightseer, asked -wherefore the rioting did not begin. Before long he was satisfied. -The crowd became a seething mass. A rush was made to force the picket -holding Twenty-ninth Street. Then stones began to fly, and all was -confusion. Sowars[227] cleared the street, but as soon as the charge -was past the roadway was again filled with rioters. Mr. Fleming had his -head cut open by a stone. My thick topi[228] saved me from a similar -mishap, and I was struck by missiles more than once. The spot near the -objective of strife, where several of us were standing, became a very -warm corner. It seemed advisable to summon troops. My friend Mr. E. W. -B. Summers volunteered to ride up to barracks, running the gauntlet -of showers of stones from street and houses. That shots were fired -from windows was said, but this is not within my knowledge. At last it -became clear that the small party of police and officials at the top -of Twenty-ninth Street was in imminent danger of being wiped out. I -therefore told the senior military police officer to take the necessary -measures to stop the riot. A file of men was ordered out, and a volley -was fired, causing some loss of life. As if by magic, the uproar ceased -in a moment. At first, by my order, blank cartridge was fired, but -without effect. It has since been definitely ordered that on these -occasions blank cartridge is never to be used. I dare say I am wrong. -Certainly the weight of authority is against me. But if I used my own -judgment, in a similar emergency, as a measure of humanity, I should -again try first the effect of blank firing. The statement made at the -time that blank fire only infuriated the mob is quite baseless. It had -no effect whatever. By the time the troops arrived all was quiet. The -soldiers marched through the streets and were picketed in the town, and -there was no further disorder. - -This is the story of the riot of 1893 as pictured in my memory. Yet -such is the fallibility of human testimony that accounts written -immediately afterwards by myself and two other officers, all close -together at the time, differed on material points. This was a useful -lesson to me in dealing with the evidence of eye-witnesses, especially -in times of excitement. Defects of observation and lapses of memory -cause discrepancies in the stories of witnesses whose sole desire is to -tell the truth. The stern suppression of this wicked and wanton riot -kept the peace in Rangoon for twenty years. At first, as Bakr-i-id -came round, troops were posted in the town. But there has been no -disturbance, and display of military force has been discontinued. I do -not think Indians bore me any ill-will for the part taken by me in this -affair. To the end of my service many of them remained my good friends. -Within a couple of months of the riot my wife and I were welcomed at -the Mohurram in Mandalay, listened to the sad story of Hassan and -Hussein, and watched the fiery rites of that impressive celebration. - -In the middle of 1893 I became Commissioner of the Northern Division. -The country was perfectly quiet and in order. Settled times had -succeeded the bustle and confusion of the pacification. There was -now leisure to prepare and execute projects for the benefit of the -people. First among these was the Mu Valley Railway, which runs from -Sagaing to Myit-kyina, opening up the fertile, land-locked plains of -Wuntho, where a year or two earlier unhusked rice sold for ten rupees -a hundred baskets, and rich lands farther north. A branch runs to -Katha, on the Irrawaddy, below Bhamo, with which there is connection -by ferry. Between Mandalay and Sagaing there is still a gap in the -system. As soon as funds are available the Irrawaddy must be bridged, -and through communication established from Rangoon to Myit-kyina. Even -more important than the railway were two great irrigation schemes -for watering the dry districts of Mandalay and Shwebo. These were -being examined and matured. When I rode through Shwebo in the autumn -of this year with the Deputy Commissioner, Mr. G. W. Shaw,[229] the -fields were as hard as the stony-hearted pavement of Oxford Street. -Anxiously the people watched the sky, longing for the appearance of the -smallest cloud. Rice was scarce, and edible roots formed the staple -fare of the peasantry. We were perilously near the Famine Code. In -those days, if Shwebo had one good year in three, it reckoned itself -fortunate. Luckily, at harvest-time there was always work in Lower -Burma; and if the season failed, crowds streamed down to the teeming -rice-fields of the Delta, whence they honourably remitted sustenance -for the women, the aged, and the infirm left in their homes. Though -emigration is easy and common enough, most Burmans are strongly -attached to their birthplace, and cling with passionate affection -to their ancestral lands. Mortgages are kept alive for a century or -more, the hope of regaining possession being abandoned with extreme -reluctance. Thus, though many farmers from the sterile north took up -land in the Delta and made new homes, the majority hastened back to -their native districts at the faintest prospect of a good season. Now -in Shwebo, thanks to the Irrigation Canal, the face of the country is -changed. Thousands of acres formerly dependent on precarious rainfall -receive ample and regular supplies of water, and are under continuous -cultivation. The pretty song of the women as they plant out the -seedlings from the pyogin[230] is doubtless heard as of yore, now not -intermittently, but each year as the season recurs. A District which -was too often a barren waste is now a rich harvest-field, giving grain -not only for local use, but for export. Similar good results have been -obtained in the Mandalay district by similar means. These irrigation -systems, which not only enrich the people, but also yield a handsome -revenue, were planned and executed with all the skill and science of -irrigation engineers experienced in such work in the Punjab. They were -based on the old Burmese works, which had fallen into disrepair, and -which at no time were sufficiently well planned and managed to secure -regular crops. - -On the borders, the Kachins had been reduced to order and had become -for the most part a law-abiding people. No longer were they permitted -to levy toll on passing caravans, or to raid and oppress the plain -villages at the foot of their hills. Their subjugation had not been -effected without difficulty. In 1891 and 1892 there was severe fighting -at Sima and Sadon; and as recently as Christmas, 1892, Myitkyina had -been attacked and burnt by a raiding party from the north. But when -they had been well beaten, and when posts had been established at -various points, the hillmen rapidly settled down. The discontinuance -of their lawless practices was more than compensated by the wealth -acquired as payment for services rendered to our officers and -military police garrisons. The Kachins, in which name may be included, -conveniently if unscientifically, many kindred tribes speaking -different dialects and following diverse customs, are sturdy fellows, -peopling the hills of the Bhamo district, on the borders of China and -Tibet. As a race, they have the vigour and vitality characteristic of -mountaineers. They are distinctly one of the most progressive races of -Burma, and, but for our advent, would have penetrated gradually far -into the plains of Burma and the Shan States. Washed and brushed up, -many Kachins show signs of a high order of intelligence. - -At this time the Bhamo district still included all the Kachin country, -Myitkyina not being yet constituted a separate charge. Mainly by -the genius of Mr. E. C. S. George,[231] the system of managing the -tribesmen was evolved. The hills were divided into administered and -unadministered tracts. In the latter there were no posts, and no -interference was attempted. So long as their inhabitants abstained -from raids and outrages in the settled country; so long, as was -somewhat crudely said, as they confined their zeal for slaughter to -their own borders, they were at liberty to do as they pleased. No -officers visited them, summoned them to appear, or exacted any tax or -tribute. Travellers crossed the administrative line at their own risk, -Government accepting no responsibility for their safety, and refusing -to exact reparation if they suffered wrong. Our sovereignty over these -tracts was not abandoned; it was merely left in abeyance. From time -to time the administrative line has been varied. On this side of the -line Government undertook to preserve order and to punish misconduct. -The administered country was dominated by police posts and placed in -charge of the Deputy Commissioner and his assistants. Control light but -effective was enforced. A simple code was promulgated, care being taken -to avoid the creation of artificial offences and undue interference -with local customs. Each village-tract had its own headman, with -fairly extensive powers, appointed by the Deputy Commissioner. In -early days the headman was rather absurdly called Sawbwa; with fuller -knowledge the title of Duwa was adopted. Periodically in the open -season, the Deputy Commission and his Assistants, with suitable -escorts, made set tours through the hills, trying cases, settling -disputes, and collecting the moderate tribute or household tax, the -only revenue raised from the Kachins. This patriarchal system, which -was gradually perfected, has succeeded admirably. Since the beginning -of 1893, only one serious disturbance[232] has broken the peace of the -Kachin country. The orderly condition of our hill-tracts afforded a -pleasing contrast to the state of those close at hand under Chinese -control, where complete indifference alternated with savage measures of -repression. - -Affairs on the Chinese border gave some trouble. The boundary had -been declared, but not yet demarcated. Its actual location being still -undetermined, it was difficult to prevent encroachments, some of which -were designed to strengthen the Chinese case when the border-line came -to be settled. We had to correspond directly with Chinese officers at -Yunnan-fu and T'Engyueeh, consular officers at these places not having -yet been appointed. On the whole, the Chinese were not bad neighbours. -We certainly were not afraid of them, but were able to take a correct -measure of their power as of their diplomacy. - -At the end of the year 1893, just at the close of his turn of office, -the Viceroy, Lord Lansdowne, came to Burma. With Lady Lansdowne, he -visited Mandalay, went up the river as far as Bhamo, and by launch -through the First Defile to Sinbo. In His Excellency's party were Sir -Henry Brackenbury,[233] Military Member of Council; Sir John Ardagh, -Private Secretary; Mr. W. J. Cuningham,[234] Foreign Secretary; -and once more Lord William Beresford as Military Secretary. The -administration of the Kachin Hills and the Chinese boundary was -discussed on the spot by the Viceroy with the Chief Commissioner -and his local officers. At Bhamo the Viceroy held a Durbar on the -house-boat in which the Chief Commissioner was wont to travel in -comfort, if not in luxury. Kachin Duwas came in crowds and laid spears -and elephant tusks and embroidered cloths at His Excellency's feet, -receiving more valuable gifts in return. On shore weird Kachin dances -were performed mid unseasonable rain, which damped the revels. It -was a pity, for at the best a Kachin dance is a depressing ceremony, -something like "Here we go round the mulberry bush," played by tired -children. At Mandalay, in the golden-pillared Western Hall of Audience, -a fitting setting for so brilliant a scene, another Durbar was held, -glittering with uniforms of British officers and gay with the bright -Court dresses of Burman and Shan notables. - -This cold season I toured in the hills for some weeks and in the -pleasantest company. Captain Bower,[235] having covered himself -with glory by hunting down the murderer of Dalgleish and earned -fresh laurels by his adventurous march across Tibet, came over to -gather honey for the Intelligence hive. Mr. George, who made all the -bandobast[236] for the tour, was more at home among Kachins than any -man of his time. Starting from Waing-maw, we marched inland to Sima, -the scene of a fierce struggle not many months before, where Morton met -a soldier's death and Captain Lloyd[237] won the Victoria Cross. So -close to the border that in the first Boundary Convention, concluded -when our diplomatists were in great awe of China's puissance, it was -assigned to our neighbours, Sima was a little outpost in the hills. -Surrounded by a stockade, a ditch, and barbed-wire entanglements, it -was strong enough to resist any probable attack. Officers and men -were housed in huts of mud or mat, stores and ammunition in sheds of -corrugated iron. Long since these primitive posts have been replaced -by substantial forts built on scientific plans. A line of them holds -the frontier and dominates the hills. From Sima we struck northward -to Sadon, then our farthest outpost. We strolled at leisure; along -forest paths up and down hill; across clear mountain-streams, sometimes -at a ford, sometimes by a swaying bridge hastily made of bamboos -with a carpet of long grass, sometimes on a raft or rude dugout; -through thriving Kachin villages perched on crests of hills, where -the barbarous people showed us no little kindness, offering fruits -from their Taungyas[238] and encouraging us to explore their long, low -thatched houses. A stretch of the march led easily over the saddle of -a range of hills. In the morning the valleys were covered with a veil -of mist; as this dispersed, at our feet were spread fertile plains, -and in the distance gleamed the Irrawaddy like a silver thread. Our -escort was a score of mounted military police, our transport mules -from China. Early, but not too early, we rose and took a substantial -chota haziri[239] beside the camp-fire while the mules were loading -up. Chinese muleteers have many good points, but they need handling, -and submit with reluctance to interference with their little ways. You -may hearken, but their voice is not in heaven before the lark. Even -when they have been roused from slumber, it is any odds that two or -three mules have wandered off in the night and have to be sought with -vituperation best left obscure. The actual loading is comparatively -simple. The baggage is tied to a wooden saddle which is lifted on to -the mule's back and left there unfastened. At that season, at the -height of some three or four thousand feet, the climate was perfect, -cool, and bright. We could march all day without inconvenience. Once -started, we walked and rode, staying now and then to interview headmen -and villagers with special reference to an inquiry into the opium -habit which I was making for my own satisfaction, till we reached our -halting-place, on the bank of a crystal stream. One inviolable rule -was enforced. The sumpter mule always headed the cavalcade. After a -dip in the river, while tents were being pitched we breakfasted under -a shady tree at any hour from one to five, as the length of the march -determined. The best servant in the camp was Captain Bower's Pathan, -a hook-nosed ruffian from the North-West Frontier, who had been in -every scrap on the border for a generation. When he raised his finger, -the other servants fled gibbering. After dinner, the day's work over, -he relaxed. In a leafy bower, like a figure from the Arabian Nights, -smoking a hookah he sat holding enthralled a breathless audience with, -one fondly hoped, stories of adventure. Perhaps he was only discussing -prices in the bazaar. Next to him, _longo intervallo_, was the Kachin -Zinaw who acted as interpreter and handyman. He began the march -speaking Chinese, Shan, Burmese, and several Kachin dialects; he ended -with a working knowledge of English and Hindustani. Zinaw was a man -of great intelligence, but not of lofty principle. For negotiating -the passage of a rushing stream, or for hastily rigging up a camp, he -was invaluable. Some years he flourished, till misdirected ingenuity -brought him to grief. His last service to Government was rendered, I -believe, in the Bhamo Jail. - -Up to Sadon we climbed with labour and heavy sorrow, each height -surmounted revealing our goal apparently as distant as ever, till -we were fain to sit down in the dust and weep. Drever, the post -commandant, an athlete of renown, explained the special advantage of -life at Sadon. Whenever you went for a walk you had to descend 2,000 -feet and climb up again. So you kept in condition. In posts like this -one or two civil and military police officers spent the months guarding -the marches. Occasional tours were welcome interludes. The work was not -very arduous, and there was a blessed lack of files and records. But -it was a hard life, with few amenities, often drearily monotonous. Our -frontier officers cheerfully endured this isolated existence, and kept -bright their country's honour among the hill tribes. - -Still passing northward, we reached the bank of the 'Nmaikha, the -main branch of the Irrawaddy, which, starting from a source still -unascertained, joins the Mali-kha some thirty miles above Myitkyina. -We camped at 'Nsentaru Ferry, forbidden to cross, as the _enclave_ -between the two rivers is unadministered territory. A scene of savage -beauty, with hills on every side, the distant peaks on the Chinese -border white with snow. We rambled upstream and along the bank of the -'Nmaikha, farther than any of our officers had yet penetrated.[240] -Returning to camp at midday, we bathed in the ice-cold water of the -river, fresh from the snowy hills. - -From 'Nsentaru we marched through Kwitu and across the Irrawaddy to -Myitkyina, then the headquarters of a subdivision. It was but a small -village, with very humble public buildings, well placed on a high bank -of the river, whose waters flowed clear as crystal. Now it is the -terminus of the railway, a flourishing town, with many Indian settlers, -the resort of fishermen who catch mahseer of ever-increasing weight. We -rode to the confluence where the 'Nmaikha and Mali-kha join to form the -Irrawaddy, more than a thousand miles from the sea; a very picturesque -spot, with the mountain-streams rushing and tumbling over rocks and -boulders. We returned on rafts, and were privileged to shoot the rapids -which impede the navigation of the river above Myitkyina. They are not -much to boast of as rapids, but the raftsmen made a fat fuss, shouting -and hustling as we toiled through the eddies. - -From Myitkyina we rode inland to Mogaung, a singularly unpleasant -town, important as a trading centre. In the regions north-west of -Mogaung comes almost all the jade yet discovered; the rest is found -in Turkestan. Though lovely and ornamental, jade is not classed as a -precious stone, and has little vogue in Europe except for hilts of -daggers in ladies' novels. Chinese merchants have a practical monopoly, -and most of the stone goes to China, where it is properly appreciated -by a nation of artistic taste. The right of levying _ad valorem_ duty -on all jade brought to Mogaung is farmed out by Government. As the -value of a piece of jade in the rough cannot be determined accurately, -the business of dealing and of farming is distinctly speculative. The -value is revealed by cutting; the duty is paid on uncut stones. The -farmer assesses the duty on any piece of stone brought in. The owner -has the option of either paying the duty or selling it to the farmer at -the farmer's valuation. This plan insures fair dealing on both sides. -But there is always the attractive element of chance. Except for the -jade business and some historic associations, Mogaung was a dull and -uninteresting place. Our objective was the lovely lake of Indawgyi, -which I was not to see till nearly twenty years after.[241] - -Sudden news came of a Kachin rising on the eastern frontier. The escort -of a civil officer had been attacked, and had suffered some loss. The -border might be ablaze. The Deputy Commissioner must hasten to the -spot; nor could the Commissioner remain unconcerned. We rode to Sinbo -next day, covering nearly fifty miles on one pony apiece, carrying no -kit and taking no attendants, our rations in our saddle-bags. At Sinbo -we found a launch and all necessary comforts provided by Mr. George's -forethought. Next day, as soon as the morning mist had lifted, the -launch started, and in two minutes was fast on a sandbank. Not all the -labours of the villagers, who turned out _en masse_, availed to move -it a foot. Resolved to reach Bhamo that day, we took a small boat and -began the passage of the Defile. It was plain paddling with the stream, -but parlous slow, and hot and cramped. When we were about half-way -through, our luck changed. We met a Government launch, which we boarded -and turned about. So at sundown we landed at Bhamo. Half an hour later -the launch abandoned at Sinbo also arrived. - -Next morning we set out for the frontier. Riding most of the day and -night, stumbling after dark on narrow ridges[242] between rice-fields, -at about midnight we came into camp, not without some slight risk of -being shot by a zealous sentry. All escorts within range having been -bidden by telegraph and signal to combine, quite a considerable force -of military police and a dozen British officers were assembled. It was -as if the Deputy Commissioner, fulfilling Pompey's thrasonical boast, -had stamped upon the ground and raised legions. This sudden show of -strength, coupled with Mr. George's tact and management, speedily -restored peace. Leaving him to distribute rewards and penalties, I -rode back with a tin of bully beef for sustenance, and a couple of -sowars as escort. On the way I slept at the Kachin village of Ponkan, -where I was hospitably entertained by the Duwa, who not many years -before had literally held Bhamo in terror. He was a tall and handsome -savage, but somewhat given to drink. At Bhamo I spent the next hundred -hours in making up six weeks' arrears of office-work. Then I took a -day's rest. - -This was my best tour. But all the travelling in the Northern Division -was full of interest. Mogok and the Ruby Mines provided an agreeable -interlude. Katha, a pestilential district in the rains, was perfect -marching ground in the dry season. Wuntho, but lately brought into -line, was revisited, and Piulebu, on the bank of the Mu River, once -the Sawbwa's strong place of refuge, inspected. With me rode my old -friend Maung Aung Zan,[243] now subdivisional officer. Though of the -girth regarded as suitable for a high official, and weighing, as he -told me, 45 viss,[244] Aung Zan found a pony to carry him. His local -knowledge was invaluable. We came to Mansi, at the end of the Banmauk -road, which breaks off so abruptly that one feels as if another step -would take one over the world's edge into the abyss. Here was some -excitement, the police post being threatened by a jungle fire rapidly -nearing the wooden stockade. In these remote parts the people, of Shan -race, were primitive folk of simple and engaging manners. Extremely -poor, they earned a scanty livelihood in the forests, or by fishing, or -by laborious cultivation of miscellaneous crops. Here, as elsewhere, -courtesy and hospitality abounded. At the entrance of every village -the headman and villagers came out to welcome us, the girls dressed in -their simple best, bearing offerings of water and flowers. Inspecting -a Court on this tour, I was refreshed by finding a case in which trial -by ordeal for witchcraft was the main incident. The suspected witch was -tied up in the fearless old fashion, and thrown into a stream. As she -sank, and was with difficulty rescued, her innocence was made clear. -The cause of action in the judicial case was her claim for damages for -defamation. She was awarded L4 and costs. - -The Commissionership of the Northern Division was probably the most -interesting office in Burma. Mandalay itself always seemed to me a -goodly place wherein to live. 'Tis true that for a couple of months -or so the heat is great; but though the thermometer rises to 110 deg. or -more, the climate is dry, and yet we do not seem to have the excessive, -suffocating heat, day and night, of the plains of Northern India. -Again, every aesthetic and artistic taste is gratified. Never to be -forgotten are the battlements of the walls, the purple shadows on -the eastern hills, the glowing sunsets on the moat, the splendour of -moonlight in the Palace corridors. The frontier work was absorbing, -and occasionally exciting; the ordinary executive work enough to occupy -one's time without being unduly exacting. Of the touring I have already -tried to create an impression. Just across the road, too, so to speak, -was the new hill-station of May-m[)y]o, then coming into notice. The -railway to Lashio, in the Northern Shan States, was being made, and had -not yet reached May-m[)y]o; but it was easy to get up for a week-end. A -drive of fourteen miles along the Aungbinle-bund to Tonbo, then a ride -of thirty miles, with a change of ponies at Pyintha; with an early -start, May-m[)y]o was reached in time for breakfast. We rode up by the -railway road to the Zibingyi plateau, a craggy path sometimes rendered -hazardous by showers of boulders rained down after blasting operations -on the line above. Thence part of the route was over the plateau, -through pleasant jungle-tracks, part along the embankment, where the -rails were not yet laid. Returning by the same way, we got back to -Mandalay by office-hours on Monday. May-m[)y]o was still in bud, perhaps -even more delightful than in its fuller bloom. Sweet were the rides -through bracken and underwood, with the chance of losing one's way and -a possible thrill of meeting a bear. And cheerful the gatherings at the -Club, the trivial social pleasures in which all took part. Mandalay -itself was a large military station, where good-fellowship has always -reigned. - -It was therefore with regret that, early in 1894, I received Sir -Alexander Mackenzie's summons to Rangoon to act as Chief Secretary -for Mr. Symes, on furlough. At the time I was acting as Judicial -Commissioner in a temporary vacancy caused by Mr. Burgess's absence on -privilege leave. As was our custom in those days, I obeyed the order -without remonstrance. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -LOWER BURMA ONCE MORE - - -The next three years, with a brief interlude of privilege leave, were -spent in Lower Burma. I was Chief Secretary for a year under Sir -Alexander Mackenzie, for nine months under Sir Frederic Fryer, for -three months under Mr. Donald Smeaton, who acted in a privilege-leave -vacancy. Work was sufficient, not excessive. The Province was in -order, and the Secretariat was administered on more regular lines than -in the earlier strenuous years. It was no longer necessary to burn -the midnight oil or to abjure exercise and recreation. Sir Alexander -Mackenzie was a man of extraordinary capacity, and of abnormal, in -my experience unexampled, speed of work. Throughout the day four -Secretaries toiled and filled office-boxes with files; by nine o'clock -next morning all came back with the Chief Commissioner's orders noted -on them. It hardly seemed as if he could have had time to untie the -bundles. Yet we had frequent evidence that cases were not dealt with -perfunctorily. The speed with which Sir Alexander Mackenzie got to -the root of a case, however elaborate or involved, seemed almost -supernatural. He left the Secretaries to do their own work, and -wrote less than any other Chief I have known. A line of his writing -would be the basis of a long draft. The least obstinate of men, he -invited criticism and free expression of opinion, and was not afraid -of changing his mind. But he was the strong man, the mainspring and -motive-power of the Administration. No Secretary cherished the delusion -that he was running the Province. We felt that he was the player whose -organ-keys were thunders, and we, beneath his foot, the pedal pressed. -Parenthetically, it may be observed that in Burma, and probably in -other Provinces which do not enjoy the blessing of Executive Councils, -the theory that Secretaries are supreme has no foundation in fact. -The power and subtle intrigues ascribed to provincial Secretariats -are the vain imaginings of people who have had no experience of their -working from within. The nonsense asserted or hinted by such persons is -incredible, and would be ludicrous but for its effect on others equally -ill-informed. Sir Alexander Mackenzie was a genial and appreciative -Chief, under whom it was a pleasure to work. As an administrator he -was not in the same class as his immediate predecessor, nor did he -inspire the personal enthusiasm and affection which many of us felt -for Sir Charles Bernard and Sir Charles Crosthwaite. But we respected -his marvellous ability, and were grateful for his uniform kindness. -According to popular belief, having finished his work before breakfast, -he spent the rest of the day on a sofa reading light literature till it -was time for tennis. - -A distinguished visitor to Burma at this time was Lord Randolph -Churchill. As Secretary of State when Upper Burma was annexed, he -had a close association with the Province. The recollection of this -was often in his mind, and gave a personal interest to his visit to -Mandalay. His coming to Burma was tinged with melancholy, as his health -was broken, and it was not long before his premature death. It is a -privilege to have met him, even though not in his brilliant day, and it -is a pleasant thought that he was able to see the country which he was -instrumental in adding to the Empire. - -Again I must confess that life in the Secretariat, interesting enough -to the workers, presented few incidents likely to enthrall the most -sympathetic reader. The more smoothly the machinery worked, the fewer -sparks were thrown off. Even in the Province, the happier the people, -the less material for the bookmaker. True, there were exciting events -even in that peaceful time. Two which startled us out of our equanimity -may be recalled. Mr. Tucker, a member of a well-known family, -many of whom have served the Crown in India, at the time District -Superintendent of Police in Pegu, was an excellent shot and a notable -sportsman. One night, when on tour in a country boat, he was aroused by -the report of a dacoity close by. Leaping on shore at once, and calling -to his boy[245] to bring his gun and cartridges, he hastened towards -the scene. As he ran along the bank, he was shot dead by dacoits, -without a chance of defending himself. It was one of the ironies of -fate that he, better than most men qualified for resistance, should -have fallen thus obscurely. One by one all concerned in the crime -were brought to justice, though some years passed before the tale was -complete. The other lurid incident was the plunder of the mail-train -between Yamethin and Pyinmana, when Nelson, the guard, was murdered. -The miscreants who perpetrated this daring outrage are believed to have -been natives of India, formerly employed on the railway and conversant -with its working. Boarding the train at Yamethin, they tampered with -the couplings of the brake-van, of which one compartment was obligingly -labelled "Treasure and valuables." At a lonely place they completed -the severance of the van from the rest of the train, which went on, -unconscious of the act. The unarmed guard was cut down and the treasure -carried off. It was believed at the time that the real criminals were -brought to trial. After protracted proceedings, they were finally -acquitted on appeal. - -The year 1896 saw the very last of the dacoit Bos. Ten years before, Bo -Cho had harried Myingyan and Pagan, the leader of a formidable gang; -once, when he met Captain Eyre, he is said to have led seven hundred -men. Unlike other Bos, he was neither killed nor captured, nor did he -surrender. When his band melted away, and dacoity became too hazardous -a sport, he simply disappeared. Either he was dead, or he had plunged -into effectual obscurity in the comparatively dense population of the -Delta. Actually, he was living as a peaceful cultivator in a village -in the middle of the Myingyan district. There he might have spent the -rest of his days, perhaps becoming in time a Kyaung-taga, or even a -Headman. No one would have dreamt of betraying him even for the price -set upon his capture. Did not the munificent offer of Rs. 20,000 fail -to tempt any follower of Gaung Gyi?[246] But after a time, apparently -weary of a life of inaction, Bo Cho became restless. With two sons, -he took to the jungle and began again the old trade of dacoity. -Experience of the early years of the pacification was utilized. Mr. -W. R. Stone,[247] a newly joined Assistant Commissioner, with a small -force of military and civil police, and with selected Burman officers -to help him, was told off to catch Bo Cho. He was given full authority -under the Village Regulation, and a free hand. The invaluable power of -removing to a distance friends and relatives of dacoits was unsparingly -exercised. In a few weeks Mr. Stone dispersed the gang and captured Bo -Cho and his sons, who were duly hanged in the Myingyan Jail. - -[Illustration: BO CHO AND HIS SONS.] - -Rejoining after short leave at the end of 1896, I became Commissioner -of the Irrawaddy division, and after many years again saw Bassein and -even Pantanaw. Seen in the light of larger experience, and from the -melancholy mound of advancing years, Bassein seemed quite different -from the gay station of our giddy youth. Really, it was much the same, -and in some ways it had improved. I found many old friends among -Burmans, officials, advocates, and traders. Every greybeard wagged his -head and welcomed me as contemporary. Seriously, I was very glad to -see these old gentlemen, and not to find myself forgotten. But I could -not disguise from myself, perhaps not from others, that my heart was -in Upper Burma; that I found the Delta folk, at least in the larger -towns and villages, sophisticated and with too large a mingling of -Kalas, and that I pined for Mandalay. The work was substantial but -not overwhelming; there was still time for the judicial part of it. -We were in Irrawaddy only for the dry months, and were able to make -some pleasant tours. Conditions of travelling by water were vastly -better than in early days. There was already one house-boat, which, -towed by a launch, was an agreeable substitute for the rice-boat of -our youth. The Commissioner had not yet a house-boat of his own, such -as that enjoyed by the present pampered official; but on occasion we -borrowed one from the friendly Deputy Commissioner of Maubin, Major -Macnabb. In the northern part of the division travelling by land was -easy in the dry weather. One exceedingly enjoyable tour in that part -lives in my memory. We rode from Henzada to Ngathaing-gyaung traversing -subdivisions held by two native officers, Maung Tin Gyaw and Maung Ba -Bwa. - -Much has been said and written about the corruption of Burmese -officials. To hear some people, you would think there was no such rare -bird, if indeed he be not fabulous, as an honest Burman in Government -service. I am happy to say that my experience enables me to place -on record a far more favourable judgment. It would be absurd to -pretend that corruption did not exist, even that it was very unusual. -It has been my fortune many times to recognize, expose, and punish -corrupt officers. Both in Upper and in Lower Burma we inherited the -traditions of a feeble Oriental Government, and it was impossible -that evil practices should not abound. Township officers and their -subordinates, all natives of the Province, exercised great power, often -free from constant and close supervision. To the mass of the people, -in their daily life, the township officer and Thugyi, even more than -the Deputy Commissioner, represented the Government. Furthermore, in -early days the native services were ill-paid and had poor prospects of -advancement. Till an honourable tradition was established, it could -not be expected that all would resist the many temptations in their -path. Recognizing and admitting all these grounds of reserve, I am -satisfied that very many Burmese officers have been perfectly honest -and have faithfully justified the trust reposed in them. Men there are -in whom I have such confidence that, were it shown to be misplaced, my -faith in human nature would be shattered. In recent years the pay and -prospects of Burmese officers have been improved (_quorum pars exigua -fui_). They now have fair wages and many roads to dignity and honour. -Partly for this reason, partly from higher motives, a sound tradition -is gradually becoming crystallized, and year by year the standard of -morality is being raised. - -Of those[248] who, in comparatively early times, set a shining example -of probity and efficiency, Maung Tin Gyaw was a fine specimen. Of -good Talaing stock, he was one of the ablest native officers I have -known. His father and uncle, whom a flippant but kindly, experienced, -and appreciative Deputy Commissioner used to call Romulus and Remus, -were Circle Thugyis, when I knew them venerable white-haired men of -distinguished appearance. One of them bore honourable scars of wounds -received in action in the troubles of 1885. Maung Tin Gyaw himself, -then in the prime of life, was a man of courage, resolution, and -independence. Well educated as a boy, but only in the vernacular, in -adult life he had succeeded in teaching himself enough English to -enable him to read the _Gazette_ with moderate ease. With lighter -English literature I fear he was unfamiliar. In his subdivision, which -he managed admirably, he had boundless personal influence (awza), -that intangible quality which makes the administrator. Throughout his -career he preserved a reputation for spotless integrity and honesty. -Riding with us through his charge, Maung Tin Gyaw was a very agreeable -companion, prompt in all courteous attentions, always at hand when -required, but never obtruding his society unsought. - -At one of our halts he found a wandering monk who had caused some -commotion elsewhere, and was regarded with suspicion as a potential -cause of political trouble. As I have said before, the wandering monk, -who gathers crowds, practises magic, and heals the sick by charms and -incantations, is always distrusted by the district officer. When he -begins to tattoo his followers, it is time to put him on security or -send him to jail. This monk proposed to walk through the subdivision -and proceed to Ngathaing-gyaung. Maung Tin Gyaw regarded this -proposition with disfavour. He forbade the monk to go by land. "In -fact," said he, "that's a very tedious and uncomfortable way. Go back -to Henzada, where you will find a steamer which will take you far more -quickly and easily." "Please tell me," replied the monk, who was of the -order of sea-lawyers, "by what law you will prevent me from going by -land." "The law," said Tin Gyaw, "I will show you in Henzada. But back -you shall go." And back he went under the friendly escort of a couple -of constables, and so far as I know he gave no further trouble. No -doubt a high-handed and illegal proceeding, but conducive to the peace -of the district, and therefore explicitly approved by the Commissioner. -Some years ago I had to mourn Tin Gyaw's loss. Till his death he was -one of my most trusted and valued friends. Maung Ba Bwa, our other -companion on this tour, I am glad to say still serves the State. I am -therefore precluded from saying more of him than that he, too, was -an officer of distinction, who for some years managed an important -subdivision never before, I think, placed in charge of a Burmese -officer. That these subdivisions should be entrusted to native Extra -Assistant Commissioners is an indication of the advance made in twenty -years. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -MANDALAY--THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION - - -Early in 1897 I was once more in Mandalay, well pleased to be again -among my friends in Upper Burma. In the short period of my charge of -the Mandalay Division occurred the inevitable rising for which the time -was ripe. In Burma a small rebellion breaks out with almost seasonable -regularity. One evening, as I was on the point of going to the Club, -then sumptuously housed in the western halls of the Palace, Mr. (now -Sir George) Scott came in. Instead of going to the Club, we drove round -Mandalay Hill. It was October, and the festival which marks the end -of Buddhist Lent was being celebrated. At the Kuthodaw[249] Pagoda -we alighted and mingled with the crowd. Pwes were being played, and -the scene was vivid with a gay and giddy throng of men, women, and -children, decked with jewels and clad in rainbow-coloured silks. We met -several friends, among them the Shwehlan Myowun, with whom Mr. Scott -renewed an old acquaintance.[250] This was not the time of year when -disturbance is expected. The October festival is one of peace and -good-will, when the shadows of Lent have departed, when merry lights -go sailing down the river, when the prospect of harvest is in sight. -It is, moreover, a sure sign that no trouble is apprehended when women -and children are seen in swarms at pwes and public assemblies. So with -cheerful hearts we resumed our drive, while with unconscious irony I -explained to Mr. Scott the profoundness of our security, our firm hold -on Mandalay, my confidence that nothing untoward could happen without -timely warning. We sat down to dinner, and got as far as coffee and -cheroots. Sir George Scott still regrets that he never tasted that -coffee. For at this moment in ran Mr. Snadden, the Superintendent of -Police, saying: "There is an insurrection. You had better come and see -about it." When we arrived on the scene, the insurrection had been -suppressed. A very aged monk had announced himself as the coming King, -the reincarnation of a Prince dead some centuries ago. He possessed -the power of making his followers invisible and invulnerable, always -an advantage, especially to a small force contending against superior -numbers. Perhaps his forces would not be so small, for presently he -would throw leaves into the air and they would come down as armed men. -His occult power he proved by walking thrice round his monastery and -disappearing from sight. "Of course," said the Kinwun Mingyi, as he -related the story afterwards, not wishing to impose upon my simplicity, -"he hid himself somewhere." With such old wives' tales, and with -promises of place and power, he beguiled a score of wretched dupes, -mostly as old as himself. They sat and plotted beneath the humble -mat-and-thatch monastery where the monk lived. My confidence that we -should be warned in time was not misplaced. The local police inspector -was told by a woman that a conspiracy was being hatched. The cry of -"Wolf!" had been so often raised that he was mildly incredulous. When -she led him to see the conspirators, and he found a lot of old men -telling their beads, his unbelief was confirmed, and he declined to -listen to the story. His want of faith cost him his appointment. - -When the eventful evening came, armed only with swords and short -spears hidden in the sleeves of their jackets, without a firearm of -any kind, the little band marched to the taking of the walled city -of Mandalay, garrisoned by two or three regiments. Their goal was -the Palace where, said the monk, "when I take my seat on the throne, -Burma will be my kingdom and the heretic kalas will flee." Almost at -the outset, they were diverted from their purpose. Crossing the moat -by the South Bridge, they came upon a British soldier walking with an -Englishwoman. "Behold the enemy; slay them," cried the mad monk. Hotly -pursued, the luckless pair ran through the South Gate.[251] I regret -to say that the police guard at the gate fled. Close by, in a large -compound, stood the house of Major W. H. Dobbie[252] of the Indian -Army. The woman ran along the garden fence, while the man darted in and -gave the alarm. Then this nameless hero, alone and unarmed, went back -to help his companion and met death unafraid. The woman, grievously -wounded, survived. With his revolver, and supplied with cartridges -by his gallant wife, Major Dobbie ran out and met the rebels at his -gate. Single-handed, he held them at bay, doing much execution, till -some other officers, attracted by the firing, came to his aid and -completed the rout. In the city gateway a running fight ensued. The -white walls were splashed with blood which long remained a memorial of -that stirring night. One officer received a cut on the head. Of the -rebels, five, including the leader, were killed and most were wounded. -If the band had pursued its original intention and made straight for -the Palace, it would have come upon a few peaceful gentlemen sitting -at dinner in the club with no weapons of defence handier than chairs -and table-knives. The attempt was an isolated affair, of no political -significance, confined to the few fanatics actually engaged. Patrols -were sent out and rewards proclaimed. Within a week we picked up all -the surviving rebels. After trial, ten were hanged in the presence of -many spectators; the rest were sent to transportation. In the jail I -spoke to one of the leaders, a man of fair position, somewhat past -middle age, the Kappiya-taga[253] of the dead monk's monastery. He -explained that he had no enmity or cause of enmity against Government. -Ambition was the motive which impelled him. He was to be the new King's -Chief Minister. The fortune of war being against him, he submitted to -the penalty without complaint. - -The story is pitiful enough. These petty risings are of periodical -occurrence, and seem to be peculiar to Burma. Three or four have broken -out in the last few years. They are never of sufficient importance -to cause any anxiety to Government. The sorrow and misery fall on -ignorant, misguided peasants who are led astray by some _soi-disant_ -Prince. Always a pretender to royal blood, a Minlaung or embryo Prince, -with power to work marvels, to bring fire forth from his arm, to -kindle mystic lights, or cause gilding to be laid by unseen hands on a -pagoda; always fairy-tales of charms against death and wounds. It seems -impossible to cure this insane disease of flocking to a pretender's -standard. For the sake of the people themselves, these outbreaks must -be suppressed with severity. We used to regard crimes against the State -as crimes of the worst character, not as venial offences to be treated -tenderly. This is the only kind of sedition which has hitherto troubled -Burma. The mass of the people, no less than the educated classes, are -too proud to follow demagogues from Bombay or Bengal. They seem to be -too intelligent to hanker after representative institutions unsuited to -the genius of the race. Recognizing that they already take a great part -in the administration, they feel assured that as they show themselves -fit, higher offices will be thrown open to their ambition. Enlightened -Burmans see that the good of the people is the sole desire of -Government, and that this is promoted by due submission to constituted -authority, not by liberty of fluent rhetoric. While, therefore, other -parts of India were seething with sedition, Burma alone remained -unmoved, pursuing its steady march of progress. The speed of the march -would be accelerated if Burma had more of its own money to spend, -and if it were not often hampered by being made to conform to Indian -precedents. All that we knew of sedition was the deportation of certain -ring-leaders to Burma, where they were not likely to be regarded with -any interest or sympathy. - -Towards the close of this year I relinquished charge of the Division -on appointment to be Her Majesty's Commissioner for demarcating the -boundary between Burma and China. The settlement of this boundary had -long been under discussion between the two Governments. In 1893 had -been concluded a Convention fixing a boundary-line very unfavourable to -Burma. As already mentioned, Sima went to China and farther south the -frontier was drawn perilously near Bhamo. Fortunately, an opportunity -of revising this Convention occurred. The new Agreement laid down a -line more practical and more in accordance with historical evidence. In -the winter of 1897 a Joint Commission was appointed to ascertain and -demarcate on the ground the frontier defined in the revised Convention. -Mr. E. C. S. George was Assistant Commissioner. My Chinese colleague -was General Liu, with several Chinese assistants and a telegraph -clerk as interpreter. The Commission assembled at Bhamo as arranged. -A few days were spent in settling preliminaries and exchanging -courtesies. General Liu and his officers dined with us and we in turn -were entertained at a Chinese feast. With some confidence, we set out -for the frontier. Mr. George, with one of the Chinese Commissioners, -was deputed to demarcate north of the Taiping as far as the high -conical peak in latitude 25 deg. 35', the extreme point mentioned in the -Convention. With his customary vigour and decision, overcoming many -difficulties, he accomplished his task. General Liu and I proposed to -demarcate south of the Taiping. Of the party were Mr. W. Warry[254] -of the China Consular Service, Major F. B. Longe[255] of the Survey -of India, Captain E. W. M. Norie[256] of the Middlesex Regiment, -Intelligence Officer, and Mr. D. W. Rae of the Provincial Service, -an officer of tried experience in the Kachin Hills. Captain J. W. L. -ffrench-Mullen[257] commanded the modest escort of a hundred rifles of -military police. - -We marched due east, through the pleasant hill-station of Sinlumgaba, -past terraced rice-fields watered by ingenious irrigation works, over -shallow streams. With more than the wonted vigour of Chinese officials, -General Liu exchanged his sedan-chair for a rough pony, and rode at -the head of his ragged escort. The result did not justify the promise -of the beginning. Almost at the outset, in circumstances with which I -need not weary my readers, we came to a deadlock. Though the case was -obviously one for compromise, General Liu, most courteous and most -obstinate of men, declined to come to terms. There was no alternative -but to refer the matter to our respective Governments, and await their -orders. So after a very few days we settled down on the banks of a -stream which up to that time had marked the provisional boundary. - -Four weary months we spent beside that miserable stream, our escort on -the Burmese side, the Chinese escort on the farther bank, occupying our -time in sending urgent appeals to Government, and in holding endless -conferences with our Chinese colleagues. Our men, disciplined and well -equipped, were under canvas, properly rationed and cared for by our -medical officer. Among them were a few Kachins recently enlisted, very -smart and proud of their new uniforms. Boots were to them at once a -source of glory and of pain. Most of them marched bare-footed, carrying -the precious but weary burden slung on their shoulders. In a village -they put them on and swaggered about for the admiration of the girls. -Hardy and brave, these mountaineers are likely to prove excellent -material for military police, perhaps even for the regular army. This -season they were blooded in a small affair which Mr. H. F. Hertz had -with an intrusive body of Chinese. They were among the first to scale -the enemy's stockade. There are now several companies of Kachins in the -battalions at Bhamo and Myitkyina. General Liu had his hundred Chinese -braves, clad in picturesque rags, undisciplined, armed with the latest -thing in rifles, which they had no idea how to use. They carried no -tents, and had to house themselves in huts of leaf and bamboo. The -comfortable arrangements made for our military police filled them with -envy, and they gratefully accepted the attention of our surgeon. We -could have enlisted as many as we pleased if we had wished to raise -a Chinese battalion. They impressed us as being good raw material -and quite well behaved, but in their existing conditions entirely -useless as a fighting force. The futility of Chinese troops against -a disciplined army has been abundantly exemplified on this frontier. -Notwithstanding warnings and alarms in the Press of the presence of -formidable arrays trained by German or Japanese instructors, and armed -with rifles of the very newest pattern, we have never encountered from -Yunnan a Chinese levy capable of standing up to our military police, -far less to a British force of all arms. - -General Liu was a sturdy old man, who had seen service in the field. -Although he succeeded in wasting the whole season, and broke solemn -compacts with a serene smile, our relations on the whole were -friendly. He wrote me innumerable despatches, adorned with the noblest -moral sentiments, but in substance quite inconsequent. This was in -accordance with established tradition. Very often he crossed over -to our camp and talked for hours, probably for the benefit of his -assistants and the egregious telegraph clerk. After drinking a liqueur, -he would return to his own side of the stream, conscious of a morning -well spent, and sit under a tree, cooling his head after the heat of -argument. Among interesting visitors to his camp were Sawbwas of the -Chinese Shan States, which lie along the border. These chiefs occupy -very much the same position as those of our own Shan States. At times -they enjoy greater freedom, at times are more severely repressed, -than their brothers in Burma. One of them cherished a beard which -Shagpat might have envied; except on occasions of display, he kept -it encased in a bag. Incidentally we were surprised by the arrival -in our camp of two English travellers, who announced that they had -travelled through China, and had just come from Lasa. Their report was -received with derision by a correspondent, who thought that Lasa was -the storied capital of Tibet, then untrodden ground. Their Lasa is one -of the Chinese Shan States. In the course of the season we had a very -effective eclipse, and were privileged to witness the Chinese beating -gongs and making an incredible noise to frighten away the dragon -devouring the sun, a custom of which we had heard, but hitherto had -only in part believed to exist. - -Such were the trivial incidents which helped to pass the weary days, -as we sat in our tents pitched in the midst of bare rice-fields, on -a plateau some four thousand feet above the sea. Till the middle of -March the climate was cold and bracing, with a sharp frost that covered -buckets of water with ice an inch or two thick, at first an object of -surprise and admiration to my Burman boy from the plains. We diverted -ourselves as best we might, and from first to last were all good -friends. By the camp-fire at night many a story was told. But that it -was a monotonous time cannot be gainsaid. Even the resource of shooting -was almost entirely absent. The hills swarmed with guns, old-fashioned -muskets for the most part, and the Kachins very successfully kept -down the game. We rode about the country for relaxation, visiting -Kachin villages, and making the acquaintance of many Duwas. The most -interesting was the blind Chief of Matang (Matin), a man of real -influence, who had been of service to Colonel Sladen on his mission to -Yunnan in 1868. Once or twice we visited Sinlumgaba, already mentioned -as a budding hill-station, and were cordially welcomed by the gunners -out for practice at the neighbouring hill of Imlumshan. Somehow or -other the months passed, in daily expectation of orders from Government -enabling us to make a start. I do not know what was the cause of the -delay. At last, at the end of the season, the long-awaited orders -came. But it was too late. We parted from General Liu with mutual -protestations of respect and affection. In spite of his obstinacy, -duplicity, and pious dissertations, I could not help liking the old man. - -After writing my report and forming plans for the ensuing season, I -acted for a time as Judicial Commissioner of Upper Burma. Towards the -end of 1898 the permanent appointment became vacant, owing to the -lamented death of Mr. Burgess. I was given the option of succeeding -him or of retaining the office of Boundary Commissioner. I accepted -the post of Judicial Commissioner. The demarcation of the boundary was -successfully carried out in the next two seasons by Sir George Scott -and Mr. George. - -Judicial work in Upper Burma, which occupied me for the next two years, -was interesting but not exciting. The volume of work was sufficient, -not beyond the pursuit of zeal and industry. The forensic part was -varied and often entertaining, involving many studies of Buddhist law -and indigenous customs. Though not a very litigious people, Burmans -hate being treated, as they think, unjustly. I have known a case where -only a few pence were at stake carried through all the Courts up to -Mandalay. Besides hearing appeals and revisions as a High Court, the -Judicial Commissioner had to supervise, and, where necessary, instruct -the subordinate judiciary. The judicial system was less elaborate -than in other Provinces, and many magistrates and Judges retained -characteristics acquired under Burmese rule. They did their best, and -administered what was perhaps at times a wild kind of justice. They had -the Civil Procedure Code thrust on them, _me judice_, at too early -a date, but they bore the infliction with resignation. The Judicial -Commissioner's duties involved a fair amount of administration and a -good deal of inspection. With the members of the small but efficient -Bar his relations were friendly and cordial. - -The Judicial Commissioner held sway within the limits of his powers -over all Upper Burma save, mercifully for them, the Shan States and the -Chin and Kachin Hills. Inspections included many parts of the Province -by me before unvisited. Of these brief visits, full of interest at -the time, it were tedious to write at length. A sample may be given. -Early one morning I landed at a wayside village to inspect the township -court. A graceful little pandal[258] had been erected wherein I was -invited to witness a pwe before beginning work. Innocently consenting, -I took my seat and the performance began. Dancers came, not single -spies, but in battalions. Every village in the neighbourhood had sent -its troupe, each eager in succession to display its skill and grace. -Except one, all the companies consisted of quite young girls, not -professionals, but daughters of the village. The last turn was given -by a band of small boys delightfully dressed in green jackets and -knickerbockers. This was much more amusing than turning over dusty -files and registers. But all good things come to an end, and after -some pleasant hours I had reluctantly to obey the call of duty. In -the end, I breakfasted at 5 o'clock tea. There is a sequel to the -story. On my return to Mandalay I received a petition signed by the -girls of one of the troupes. It was more clement than the petition of -Salome. The memorialists had danced, and I had been pleased to look and -express approval. Such poor skill as they had was due to the training -of their saya.[259] This worthy man had fallen on evil days. By the -craft and subtlety of his enemies, he had been wrongfully prosecuted -for embezzlement, unjustly convicted, and barbarously sentenced to -imprisonment. If he stayed in durance, his lessons would be forgotten, -and his pupils would be able to dance no more. Would I kindly, as a -personal favour to them, order his instant release? The impulse of the -natural man was to grant on the spot this ingenuous gracefully worded -request. Hardening my heart, I yet examined the record of the trial -with every desire to find a reason for intervention. Alas! I could not -convince myself that the saya was an injured innocent. All that the -girls got by their memorial was a civil answer, in which I tried to -explain why their request could not be granted. I hope they gave me -credit for the wish to help them. - -It should be a truism, but is too seldom recognized, that the less the -higher Courts interfere, especially on technical grounds, the better. -Now and then, however, it was pleasing to be able of one's own motion -to throw open the prison gates. Very gratifying it was to set at -liberty a man sentenced to a long term of imprisonment for exceeding -the right of private defence against an armed robber. To me he seemed -deserving of reward rather than punishment. I doubt if any act of my -official life gave me greater pleasure than restoring a young woman to -freedom. Inspecting a gaol, I found a young Burmese girl, the solitary -occupant of the woman's side. In an agony of grief at her husband's -sudden death she had tried to commit suicide. For this heinous crime -she had been sentenced to imprisonment for three months. On her ready -promise not to do it again, I was able to release her at once. - -For a few weeks in 1899, by arrangement with Mr. F. S. Copleston, C.S., -who, solely for my convenience, changed places with me, I held the -office of Judicial Commissioner of Lower Burma, a thankless post, of -which the work exceeded my capacity. - -In 1900 the Chief Court of Lower Burma was established, Mr. Copleston -becoming the first Chief Judge. The selection was vehemently -criticized, the local Bar and Press clamouring for the appointment of a -barrister and for Mr. Copleston's head on a charger. I should like to -explain the reasons which may be urged in support of the appointment of -a civilian. The judicious skipper will perhaps be warned, and avoid the -next page or two. It is open to argument that there should not be any -civilian Judges; that, as in England, all Judges should be barristers -trained in forensic practice. This argument is not seriously advanced -by anyone conversant with the conditions, and need not be traversed -at length. But the situation may be briefly stated. From the beginning -of their service, civilians are constantly doing judicial work, always -criminal, generally civil. In the five-and-twenty years or so that -pass before they are likely to enter a High or Chief Court, those who -have any aptitude or inclination for legal studies have had abundant -experience and have acquired a good stock of learning. Where there -is a division between the executive and judicial branches, certain -officers specialize almost exclusively. Civilians of my own standing -had even an earlier training. During their term of probation law formed -a prominent part of their reading. Periodical examinations tested their -proficiency, and they had also to attend Courts and prepare notes of -cases. They saw in practice the daily working of Courts under the -presidency of the best Judges and magistrates in England. A selected -candidate who failed at the Final Examination to qualify in law was -ruthlessly rejected, excluded for ever from the paradise of the Civil -Service. It is thought by some not unintelligent persons that in the -trial of civil and criminal causes it is an advantage for the Judge to -have knowledge of the language, customs, and character of the people -concerned. Apart from this, every High and Chief Court in India has -civilian Judges, by common consent as well qualified as their barrister -colleagues. So much for the appointment of any civilians as Judges. -Now for the question of the Chief Judge. In the Chief Court of Lower -Burma, with which we are immediately concerned, in forensic business -the Chief Judge has no more weight or authority than any of his puisne -brothers. Only when all the Judges are sitting as a Bench, and when -they are equally divided, has the Chief Judge a casting-vote. As yet -that instance has not happened. Ordinarily, in court the Chief Judge -is on terms of exact equality with his colleagues. As a member of a -Bench he can be outvoted by his juniors. His decision as a single judge -can be considered, modified, or overruled by a Bench, of which he may -or may not be a member. So far as judicial work is concerned, every -objection to the appointment of a civilian as Chief Judge can be urged -with equal force to the appointment of any civilians as Judges. But -the work is not exclusively judicial. It includes also administrative -functions. The Chief Court initiates or advises upon many matters -connected with the judicial administration. All subordinate Judges -and magistrates, most of them Burmans, are under its supervision. In -this branch of the duties of the Court the leading part is necessarily -taken by the Chief Judge. It is therefore desirable that he should -have administrative experience, and, if possible, good knowledge of -the people. For these reasons public interest is better served by -the selection of a civilian as Chief Judge. I do not care to discuss -the vulgar suggestion, not seriously made by any decent person, that -civilian Judges are more likely to be subservient to Government than -barristers. No one believes this; nor would it apply particularly to -the Chief Judge, who, as I have said, has no more power judicially -than his colleagues. The only sound rule is for Government to appoint -as Chief Judge the man believed to be best qualified for the office, -whether civilian or barrister, bearing in mind that administrative as -well as purely legal qualifications are requisite. - -Some time ago there was an agitation for the establishment of a High -Court for Burma in place of the Chief Court and Judicial Commissioner. -No doubt Judges of the Chief Court should receive the same pay as -Judges of a High Court. They do exactly the same work, and are of -the same standing. Apart from this, in my humble judgment, the -establishment of a High Court would be an unmixed evil. Upper Burma is -not ripe for even the mild sway of the Chief Court. For both litigants -and Judges it is better to remain under the sympathetic control of -the Judicial Commissioner, whose learning is tempered by sympathy -with the people. It would also be disastrous for suitors from Upper -Burma to have to come to Rangoon, practically a foreign city, instead -of Mandalay, where they are at home. Besides these objections, the -establishment of a High Court would involve the appointment on every -occasion of a barrister Chief Justice, which I hope I have shown to be -inexpedient. As puisne Judges, barristers would be sent from England. -One need not believe spiteful stories of political jobs, and one -may respect many Judges of High Courts; but it cannot be contended -that an Indian career now attracts the pick of the English Bar, men -in first-class practice or with good prospects. Recent experience -has, I trust, quenched whatever desire there may have been for the -establishment of a High Court in Rangoon. But enough of controversy. - -At the end of 1898 Lord Elgin visited Burma, on the very eve of his -departure from India. - -In the last few months of my last residence in Mandalay, no suitable -house being available, I occupied my old quarters in the Palace, with -the White Pavilion[260] opposite. Except for the Club on the western -side and a few offices, the Palace was untenanted. Burmans ranged it -at will, much interested in pacing its corridors and examining its -stately rooms. They certainly did not regard the Palace with awe or -reverence, but were well pleased to satisfy their curiosity. On feast -days crowds came to picnic in the gardens and loitered in my courtyard. -All climbed up the Queen's Tower, and all counted the steps as they -descended. At night, save for a few watchmen, most of the Palace was -left in solitude. Very striking was the effect as one's footsteps -sounded hollow on the boarded floors, while the tropic moon flooded -the columned arcades with unearthly light. Revolving many memories and -picturing many scenes of bygone days, I traversed the deserted halls. - -At the end of 1900, the day after the completion of my obligatory -service in India, I went on furlough, free to retire at the end of two -years. Mr. Harvey Adamson[261] succeeded to the appointment. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -THE CHIEF COURT--LAST YEARS IN BURMA - - -After spending rather more than a year in Europe, I was tempted back -to Burma by the offer of the post of Chief Judge in succession to Mr. -Copleston, who retired from the Service. I held the office for three -years, from 1902 to 1905. These are years of pleasant memory, mainly -on account of the very cordial relations with my colleagues, and -especially the kindness and friendship of the barrister Judges. Of the -Bar also I have a grateful remembrance. Its members were pleased to -speak appreciatively of me on my departure. I risk the double edge. - -The most interesting event of these years was the Durbar at Delhi held -by Lord Curzon on New Year's Day, 1903, to celebrate the Coronation -of His Majesty King Edward VII. I do not propose to tell a twice-told -tale by describing the Durbar and its attendant ceremonies. But a brief -reference may be permitted. A splendid pageant was the State Entry, -with its long line of richly caparisoned elephants, its dazzling array -of Chiefs in gorgeous vestments, seen by thousands from the terraces -of the Jamma Musjid. Glorious and soul-stirring was the Durbar itself -with all the pomp of heraldry and blazonry of colour. Perhaps the -most moving incident was the appearance of a body of Mutiny veterans, -conspicuous among them white-haired men of many Indian races who had -been faithful to their salt. The Shan chiefs, humble folk among the -stately Indian Rajas, were yet in their grotesque attire a picturesque -feature of the State Entry, and attracted notice as they paid homage -at the Durbar. Not soon to be forgotten was the review of native -retainers, where the followers of many Chiefs displayed curious customs -and equipment handed down from remote antiquity. Perhaps the most -charming ceremony was the State Ball in the Diwan-i-Am (with supper -in the Diwan-i-Khas), where Europeans and Indians, gleaming with gold -and jewels and radiant colour, flashed and glittered in the historic -halls of the Moguls. The conception of the Durbar and of the incidents -grouped round that memorable scene was worthy of the great event which -they celebrated. The Burma camp was, as usual, admirably arranged and -managed; the griffins, which characteristically guarded the gateway, -a piece of Burma set down in the Punjab plain. The guests hospitably -entertained there owe a debt of gratitude to Sir Frederic and Lady -Fryer and His Honour's able and courteous staff for many pleasant days. -That fortnight remains in my mind as a charming episode. - -In 1905, Lord Curzon appointed me to be Lieutenant-Governor in -succession to Sir Hugh Barnes, who went to the Council of India. Sir -Harvey Adamson became Chief Judge. - -Early in 1906 the Province was honoured by the visit of the Prince and -Princess of Wales. Their Royal Highnesses were received with unbounded -enthusiasm by all classes and races in Burma. Their gracious kindness -and consideration had the happiest effect in exciting the loyalty of -the Burmese people. To Rangoon and Mandalay, Shan chiefs and many -strange folk from remote hills and valleys, Chins, Kachins, Karens, -Was, Padaungs, Bres, flocked to do homage. Proceeding down the river -to Prome in a steamer fitted up by the Flotilla Company, Their Royal -Highnesses saw a great deal of the country in a short time. The memory -of their visit will not fade from the minds of those privileged to see -them, and will be handed down as a glowing tradition to posterity. - -Next year the Duke and Duchess of Connaught and Princess Patricia came -to Burma, and were welcomed with acclamation. Their Royal Highnesses -visited Rangoon, Mandalay, and Pagan, thus seeing the most interesting -places in the Province. - -In 1907 the Viceroy, Lord Minto, with Lady Minto, paid us a visit, -and spent nearly a month in Burma. Their Excellencies saw Rangoon, -Mandalay, Lashio, Myitkyina, Bhamo, Pagan, and Prome. Coming, like Lord -Curzon, early in his term of office, Lord Minto obtained an insight -into the conditions of Burma, and became interested in the Province. -The most memorable incident of his visit was the Durbar held by His -Excellency in the Eastern Hall of Audience in the Palace at Mandalay, -the first public ceremony held there since Lord Dufferin's Levee in -1886. - -Although to Lord Curzon I owed my appointment as Lieutenant-Governor, -I was not in Burma at the time of his visit, nor was it my privilege -to serve directly under him for many months. Most illustrious of the -eminent statesmen who have held the high office of Viceroy of India, -Lord Curzon left, regretted by all who had at heart the interests of -the Empire and the good of the people. It is presumptuous of me to -attempt any appreciation of his work or to raise my feeble voice in -eulogy. Yet, having served under him, I cannot be altogether silent. -Lord Curzon set the example of the loftiest ideal. Inspiring the -heartiest enthusiasm in those brought into personal relations with -him, he spared no pains to raise the standard of efficiency, to reform -abuses, to promote the well-being of the people of India. When the dust -of controversy shall have been laid, the historian will see clearly, in -true perspective, how noble a task he accomplished in the years, all -too few, of his Viceroyalty. - -So long as Burma remains a Province of India, her geographical -position will place her at a disadvantage in comparison with other -Provinces. Members of Council pay sparing and infrequent visits, and -seldom have any knowledge of the country and the people. Nor has the -Lieutenant-Governor many opportunities of visiting the headquarters -of Government. Only once, towards the end of my term of office, -did I go to Calcutta. While I was at Government House, except one -Member who came on a private excursion, giving me no warning of his -coming, and whom I never saw, only two Members of Council, Sir Denzil -Ibbetson,[262] and Mr. W. L. Harvey, came to Burma. It was a pleasure -and a privilege to make the acquaintance of Sir Denzil Ibbetson. His -coming, though unavoidably deferred till the last moment, was of -advantage to the Province. The same may be said of Mr. Harvey's visit. -Sir Denzil Ibbetson and Mr. Harvey were lost to India soon afterwards. -Both were men of character, ability, and distinction, whom we could ill -spare. - -Distance and the pressure of overwhelming official cares kept away the -Financial Member.[263] This was specially to be regretted. For the new -Provincial Settlement, cynically styled a Contract, was discussed and -determined. The debate was one-sided, and recalled the schoolboys' tag: -"Si rixa est, ubi tu pulsas, ego vapulo tantum." - -Burma fared badly in this unequal contest, where the decision rested -solely with the Supreme Government. The situation may be described in -popular terms. Apart from local funds, revenue and expenditure in India -are divided into Imperial and Provincial. All the revenue is raised -in the Provinces, the Government of India having no separate estate. -Imperial expenditure, including the cost of the Central Government, -the army, and Home charges, has to be met by contributions from the -Provinces. Certain heads of revenue are Imperial, others provincial; -others are divided between the two. It is right and fair that Burma -as well as other Provinces should contribute to Imperial needs. Only -very foolish people believe that the Government of India depends upon -Burma for its livelihood, so to speak. The poor old milch-cow has been -trotted out too often, and has become a wearisome, time-worn beast. In -fact, the contribution paid by Burma is actually less than that paid by -the richer Provinces. At the same time it is true that the contribution -from Burma is greater in proportion to its population than that of -any other Province, and that from Burma alone the annual subvention -tends to increase. It may be admitted, as is perhaps the case, that -the settlement with Burma was made on the same lines as those of other -Provinces, that the proportion of its revenues taken by India is much -the same as the proportion taken elsewhere. What people in Burma feel -is that this is unfair. When our settlement was made we were still in -a backward state, ill-equipped with roads and buildings, with many -needs as yet unsupplied. Other Provinces were far more advanced, -and had less necessary expenditure to incur. Moreover, the cost of -public works in Burma is twice as high as in other parts of India. If, -therefore, we are to be treated like other Provinces, we ought to have -more liberal terms. So much is taken from Burma that not enough is left -for public works and other expenditure necessary to our expansion. -We also believe that this is a shortsighted policy, and that liberal -expenditure in Burma would benefit Imperial and Provincial revenues -alike. Stated in few words, this is the case for Burma, based on facts -available to the public, without reference to unpublished records. - -Another disadvantage under which Burma labours is the application of -Indian principles and precedents. While Burma is part of India, no -doubt the system of administration and the main lines of policy must be -the same as in other Provinces. But in details, in matters where our -conditions differ essentially from those of India, it is unreasonable -that we should be bound by Indian rules. A Member of Council who has -never seen Burma thinks nothing of overruling[264] the Local Government -on points of purely local concern. Again, general orders framed after -consideration of the circumstances of Indian Provinces are applied to -Burma, where conditions are totally unlike. In this way much needless -labour and waste of valuable time are caused. I remember one Commission -which contained no representative from Burma, and which never came -near the Province. It issued an elaborate and extremely valuable -Report. For years afterwards poured forth a flood of Resolutions on -the Commission's recommendations which we were required to consider -and discuss, though none of them could possibly apply to our local -conditions. No real harm was done, but time and labour were spent in -vain. As Burma differs essentially from India, and as it is impossible -that Burma should be adequately represented in all departments of -the Government of India, the natural conclusion is that the Local -Government should be allowed a much freer hand, and should be trusted -to know what is best in matters of local concern. - -While on the subject of disadvantages I may mention a real grievance. -It may seem mainly to affect the Civil Service; really it is of vital -importance to the Province. I refer to the very small share which -Burma has in appointments under the Imperial Government. As I myself -obtained in my service more than I could have expected, I shall not -be thought to speak from any personal feeling. In the fifty years -since Burma has been a Province she has supplied to India one Member -of Council, two Deputy-Secretaries, one Agricultural Adviser (for a -short term), and two or three Under-Secretaries, all within the last -seven years. No civilian from Burma has ever been chosen to administer -another Province. It does not seem likely that of civilians in Burma, -chosen in the same way as other civilians, none has been fit for such -an appointment. It is needless to conjecture reasons for this apparent -neglect. I suggest that Burma should receive a fair share of high -offices, so that service in Burma may cease to be unpopular, and that -her needs and conditions may be properly appreciated by the Supreme -Government. - -During my term of office the Royal Commission on Decentralization -came to us. Needless to say, Burma had no representative among its -members. That could hardly be expected. Bombay had two members, Madras -and Bengal one each. The Punjab and the United Provinces were omitted. -Except Mr. Dutt, a Bengali civilian who served in the regular line and -seems to have attained no special distinction, the Commission included -no one who had any acquaintance with the system of government by -Lieutenant-Governors, and only one, Sir F. P. Lely, who had served in a -non-regulation Province. The constitution of the Commission was clearly -reflected in the Report which regarded all India as administered under -the Presidency system, and therefore in the hands of Secretaries and -Members of Executive Councils. The Commission learnt little of Burma -during its somewhat hasty visit. Nor was it likely that permanent -benefit would result from the labours of a body which set out to -investigate and reform the whole administrative system of India in the -course of a cold-weather tour. - -The reforms of Councils devised by Lord Morley or Lord Minto were -discussed and carried into effect during these years. These reforms -were not needed in Burma; there was no popular demand for them; they -were entirely unsuited to the Province. But Burma must lie on the -procrustean bed. I am thankful to say, that for a time at least, the -Province was saved from popular elections. In a country where, after -thirty years, it is rare to find Europeans or Burmans of position -willing to take an interest even in municipal elections, that would -be the last straw. But the Council had to be enlarged, a non-official -majority secured, and the elective system introduced at least to -the extent of enabling one body, the Burma Chamber of Commerce, to -elect[265] its member. And all the detailed rules of procedure, of -Budget discussions, of interpellations, and the like, framed for other -Provinces, have been applied to Burma. It may safely be said that no -one in Burma is a penny the better for these innovations, and that the -great heart of the people remains unmoved. The net result is some waste -of time and public money owing to the appointment of more official -members, worthy gentlemen who have to spend hours in Council when they -should be doing their work. We were quite as well off under the old -Council and the old rules. The situation would be ludicrous if it were -not pathetic. - -The objects which I regarded as most important, and which, to the best -of my ability, I pursued, were the encouragement of efficiency in -the Services, insistence on the principle of selection to which the -Government of India often drew attention, and the improvement of the -position and prospects of officers of various departments, particularly -but not exclusively, those manned by people of the country. I had the -pleasure of making the first appointment of a Burman as a District -Judge, my old friend Maung Aung Zan,[266] K.S.M., being the officer -selected. Two posts of Deputy Commissioner were obtained for the -Provincial Service, the first Burman to hold that office being Maung -Myat Tun Aung, C.I.E., K.S.M., T.D.M. Later I appointed the first two -Burman Superintendents of Police, Maung Tun Min,[267] T.D.M., and -Maung Shwe Tha,[267] I.S.O., K.S.M., A.T.M. These appointments enabled -us to solve a long-standing problem, the officering of Kyauk-pyu. -This district was notoriously unhealthy for any but natives of the -locality, so that it was difficult to keep European officers there -for any length of time. With one Arakanese as Deputy Commissioner and -another as Superintendent of Police, both accustomed to the climate, -it was possible to have the district efficiently administered without -sacrificing anyone's health. For some time Kyauk-pyu was administered -solely by native officers. The experiment seems to have been -successful; both the Deputy Commissioner and the Police Superintendent -having recently been decorated. I take the opportunity of reminding my -Burmese friends, who justly cite me as desirous of seeing them placed -in higher offices, that one essential condition is that by character -and ability they should prove their fitness for advancement. I am the -last man in the world to wish Burmans promoted merely because they are -Burmans, without regard to their qualifications. "After these things do -the Gentiles seek." - -A successful effort was made to equalize the pay and prospects of the -higher ranks of the Judicial Service, so as to attract men of at least -average ability and ambition to that branch. The Provincial Judicial -Service was organized on a proper basis, so that officers who chose or -were posted to it might receive the same pay as those on the Executive -side. The important Land Records Department was reorganized and placed -on a proper basis as regards pay, and a system of recruitment and -training was devised. To my lot, assisted by Colonel S. C. F. Peile, -C.I.E., the experienced Inspector-General, fell the task of introducing -most of the changes following the Report of the Police Commission. In -this matter I think we might have been allowed more liberty to consult -local conditions. After all, the Report was not verbally inspired. - -I had much at heart the enactment of legislation for restraining -the alienation of land and for the protection of tenants. I was -unsuccessful in effecting either of these objects before my retirement. -I have no doubt that gradually but surely the Burman is being squeezed -off the land, and that if, as seems likely, the proposed legislation is -abandoned, the land will fall into the hands of non-agriculturists and -natives of India. Free trade in land as in other things may be good. -From an economic point of view the position is probably sound. More -rice will be grown for export; more land revenue and customs duty will -be garnered. But there are other considerations. The standard of living -will be lowered. The deterioration of the Burmese race which will -inevitably accompany their divorce from the land will be a subject for -regret when it is irremediable. Similarly, tenants in Burma are rapidly -increasing in numbers. There, as elsewhere, they need protection. The -solace of my disappointment was the progress of the co-operative credit -movement under the fostering care of Mr. A. E. English, C.I.E. This -movement will afford a great deal of help to the Burman cultivator. -If it spreads to a sufficient extent, it may even obviate the need of -agrarian legislation. - -Among the pleasantest as well as the most beneficial duties of the -Lieutenant-Governor is the making of tours in all parts of the -Province. These journeys bring the head of the local Government into -touch with officers of all grades and departments, as well as with -the people. Not the least charming incidents associated with them -are the receptions at every halting-place of importance, where the -townsfolk offer a hearty welcome in their own fashion, and tender -loyal addresses. Some of these receptions were elaborately and -magnificently staged, with presentation of flowers, with dance and -music, with triumphal arches, with decorated streets. Without meaning -to be invidious, I think receptions at Mandalay, Pegu, Akyab, and -Bassein, where I was charmed to meet many old friends, stand out in my -memory as conspicuous. The addresses presented on these occasions were -often gracefully worded. Besides a profusion of loyal sentiments and -good wishes, they usually stated matters of local interest for which -the benevolent attention of Government was sought, the need of a new -school, waterworks, sanitation, as the case might be. In one address my -wife was gratified by being styled my "august consort."[268] Except -the Chin Hills, the Hill districts of Northern Arakan and Salween, and, -I am ashamed to say, Tharrawaddy, which was unaccountably neglected, -I visited all the districts as well as the Northern and Southern Shan -States. Kyaington (Kengtung), across the Salween, was an object of -unfulfilled desire, and a projected ride to Namkham was not realized. - -To Mogok I went for the purpose of investing the young Sawbwa of -Moengmit with the administration of his State. At a very early age the -young Chief was taken in hand, and placed in charge of the Rev. J. N. -Cushing,[269] the venerable head of the Baptist Mission in Rangoon, -and one of the first of Shan scholars. Dr. Cushing received him into -his own house, and treated him as a son. When of suitable years, the -future Sawbwa was sent to a district for training in judicial and -executive work. Not till he was of ripe age, and had given evidence of -steadiness of character, was he allowed to assume charge of his State. -He received his Sanad in full Durbar, and with it much good advice. -With an experienced Burman officer as his principal Assistant, and -under the effective supervision of the Deputy Commissioner, Mr. E. -C. S. George, the young Chief has done well, and has shown zeal and -intelligence in the management of his State. I think the impressions -of his early years have not faded. At the time of his investiture his -marriage was celebrated--a pleasing ceremony which I was privileged -to attend. At Mogok the usual strenuous round of duty and pleasure, -incident to the inspection of a district headquarters with a vigorous -Deputy Commissioner, filled days and nights. Up at six to ride round -and visit local institutions, business occupied the day; at about five -in the evening amusements began, and lasted till the small hours. -Carrying very pleasant memories, a tired party reached Mainglon, on -the march back to May-m[)y]o. Most of the route lay along a well-graded -hill-road, aligned and made by the Public Works Officer of Thibaw, a -very intelligent Shan. At each halting-place comfortable encampments -of mat and bamboo had been built by direction of Mr. Stirling,[270] -Superintendent, and the Chief, my good friend Saw Hke.[271] - -A charming tour took us the round of the maritime districts, Tavoy, -Mergui, Akyab, Kyaukpyu, and Sandoway, in the R.I.M.S. _Dalhousie_. -We cruised in the lovely Mergui Archipelago, a summer sea set with -countless islands, rivalling in beauty the Inland Sea of Japan. Perhaps -the most noticeable sight was Elephant Island. It stands alone, its -green slopes narrowing to the sky. At low water we approached the -shore, our boat with difficulty and strenuous effort pushed over sands -hardly covered by the shallow sea. So we came to where the water -deepened, at the mouth of a gloomy cavern. Entering, we found a low, -winding, rock-roofed tunnel, just wide and high enough for our boat, -with a glimmer of daylight at the far end. Emerging, we reached the -middle of the island, a still lagoon, encircled by smooth marble walls. -A magic scene from fairyland: a snow-white ring, with an opening like -the crater of a volcano; in the midst the purple lake. One pictured -it as the secret refuge of buccaneers, who here might hide in safety. -Our time for admiring this lovely landscape was limited; too long a -stay would have imprisoned us for hours, till the tide fell and left -the tunnel navigable. Working by charts nearly a hundred years old, we -approached Victoria Point, the farthest outpost on the south, bordering -on the Siamese State of Renoung. The revival of tin-mining had begun to -make the place of some importance. Later a wireless telegraph station -was established. More recently rubber-planting has been tried. - -After a winding course over rocks and shoals, through unexplored Shan -States and savage hills where head-hunting is still fitfully pursued, -the Chindwin joins the Irrawaddy above Pakokku. Passing between banks -clad with dense forest, we desecrated with steam and smoke silent -reaches glamorous with romance. The march of progress is gradually -dissipating the mist which yet still clings to this river of ancient -story. Here and there a court-house or a military police post marks -the advance of civilization. Inland the woodman's axe resounds in the -primeval forest. A coal-mine, one of the many promising but faithless -ventures of the prospector, makes a deep cavern in a hillside. We -explored it for a considerable way by the light of naked, guttering -candles; no Davy lamps in that mine. On the Chindwin are still current -stories with an old-world ring. There you will see a little monastery -at the water's edge. Above that point, though snakes abound, they have -no power to harm. On one side of the line thus marked, if a snake bites -you, prepare to die; cross the line, the same snake may bite you with -no worse effect than a fleeting sting. Walking through a village, to -test the story we asked a man if there were many snakes. "Oh yes," he -replied; "but, of course, they do no harm. I was bitten yesterday." -And he showed on his leg the mark of recent fangs. The reason of this -interesting difference is comparatively simple. Once upon a time the -countryside was ravaged by a gigantic serpent. The King himself, in -the fearless old fashion, gave battle to the snake, and, after a -desperate struggle, slew it and cut it in half. The two pieces he flung -into the river. Now, the head-piece, where are the poisonous fangs, -floated down-stream; the tail-piece, where there are none, floated -upwards. You see the result. If you go farther north, you will come -to a village where the people have the fascinating power of turning -themselves into tigers. We went no higher than Homalin, and missed the -chance of verifying this attractive legend. It was poor compensation to -land at Thangthut, the capital of a very small Shan Chief, to find a -stack of polo-sticks in his haw,[272] and to learn that Manipuris, the -originators of the game, sent teams to play polo with the Sawbwa and -his staff. - -Talking of tigers reminds me of one or two stories which may find a -place here. Real tigers are common to many parts of the Province. -One day a tiger came upon two little girls in the jungle, seized the -younger, and was trotting off with her. The elder sister, a girl of -about twelve, took off her tamein[273] and flapped the tiger about the -face till the astonished beast dropped the child and fled. The truth -of this story is proved by the fact that Government gave the girl a -silk tamein in recognition of her courage and presence of mind. Another -time, quite recently, a woodman was seized by a tiger. He cut at him -with his da[274] till the tiger dropped him and retreated. The man, -enraged at being attacked, followed and slashed him again, his only -weapon being a long wood-cutting knife. Another authentic story, of an -earlier date, tells how a tiger was killed by a man armed only with -da. We may hesitate to believe people who tell us that Burmans are not -brave. - -The American who declined to go to the Taj Mahal because he had not -come to India to see tombs, when he came to Burma would not look at -Pagan because he had not come to see pagodas. Described once for all by -Sir Henry Yule in "The Court of Ava," in its way Pagan is one of the -most remarkable places in the world. The seat of an ancient dynasty, -it lies along the bank of the Irrawaddy below Myingyan. Pagodas, -literally for miles and in hundreds, fill the landscape as far as eye -can see. All varied styles of Buddhist architecture, with many traces -of Hindu influence, are represented. Here is the renowned Ananda -Pagoda, among the most famous of Buddhist shrines. Here, too, are -solemn, stately figures of the four Buddhas[275] who have yet visited -the earth. As the ages roll by, other Buddhas will descend for the -regeneration of the world. - -Not very far below Pagan, illustrative of a strange mingling of ancient -and modern, is the most productive of the oil-fields of Burma, that -of Yenangyaung. In 1886, reviewing the prospects of mineral discovery -in Upper Burma, we prophesied before we knew. We went nap, as might -be said, on coal, and took but little interest in petroleum. The -development of the oil-fields is the most striking feature of the -economic history of the Province for the past twenty-five years. The -search for coal has been uniformly disappointing. The Yenangyaung field -was worked in former times by crude native methods. Into shallow wells -dug by hand men went down, clad in a sort of diver's costume, and -laboriously baled out oil with a bucket. The out-turn was comparatively -small. The wells were owned by a close corporation of local Burmans -known as twinzas,[276] who had exclusive hereditary rights. All the oil -extracted had to be sold to the King at a fixed price. Of late years -the oil-fields have been exploited with all the resources of modern -science by companies who, by grant or purchase, have acquired rights -over wells and oil-bearing land. The Burma Oil Company were pioneers -of the industry. It was under the auspices of my friend Sir Campbell -Kirkman Finlay, Managing Director of the company, that I twice visited -Yenangyaung. One of my visits was marked by the spouting of the most -productive well yet struck in Burma. The oil-field is a busy bustling -place, covered with tall derricks and giving employment to many -drillers and mechanics. Side by side with modern scientific extraction -may be seen the primitive native methods still practised. Over all is a -Warden to enforce the elaborate rules necessary to safeguard the field -against danger from fire and to prevent its premature exhaustion. From -the wells runs a pipe-line conveying oil for about two hundred and -seventy-five miles to the refinery at Syriam, where a populous town -has sprung up. The latest report gives the total quantity of petroleum -produced in Burma as 222,000,000 gallons, a very small fraction of the -world's production. - -Our tours on the Irrawaddy and Chindwin were made in steamers of the -Royal Indian Marine and in the house-boat already mentioned. Among -Indian Marine officers I had many friends. One I may mention by name, -Lieutenant H. R. Bowers, was with us on several tours. The son of -Captain A. Bowers, R.N.R., long resident in Burma, who had accompanied -Colonel Sladen's mission to Yunnan in 1868, he had close hereditary -associations with the Province. From the first he impressed us as an -officer of great promise, capable and self-reliant. I bade him farewell -on the eve of his departure, full of hope and pride, for the journey -whereon he died a hero's death among Antarctic snows. His memory lives -in the hearts of his countrymen. - -My final tour brought me at last to the lovely lake of Indawgyi, -which I had in vain tried to reach in 1894.[277] From Hopin on the Mu -Valley Railway the distance is only some thirty miles, which we rode -leisurely in three or four easy stages. With us were Mr. Hertz,[278] -the very able and distinguished Deputy Commissioner of Myitkyina, and -Mr. W. Scott, one of his Assistant Superintendents, whose knowledge -of Kachin language, folklore, and customs is extensive and peculiar. -Very impressive is the panorama of the lake, lying in a semi-circle -of hills, with few traces of civilized intrusion. A pagoda here and -there on its green banks adds a picturesque touch to the scene. We -sought but did not find the floating islands of which we had heard long -ago. Indawgyi lies on the border of a fertile country once populous, -but devastated after a Kachin rising not long before the Annexation. -It is slowly recovering, and as population increases will once more -be a rich harvest-field. Thence we paid a last visit to Myitkyina -and the confluence.[279] More precious than the Commissioner, the -Lieutenant-Governor was not allowed to shoot the rapids. He was -induced to skirt them on a pony. Of the rise and progress of Myitkyina -I have already written. Then for the last time, with many regrets, we -passed through the glorious First Defile and bade farewell to it for -ever. - -It were ungracious to close this discursive record without expressing -my grateful obligations to those who worked with me in the last -responsible years of my service. No Lieutenant-Governor ever had a -better personal staff or more capable Secretaries. If I take leave -to mention Mr. F. C. Gates,[280] Mr. W. F. Rice, C.S.I., Mr. Lionel -Jacob,[281] Mr. R. E. V. Arbuthnot, Mr. G. F. Arnold, C.I.E., Mr. -F. Lewisohn among Secretaries; Major F. J. Fraser, the late Mr. D. -Shearme, Captain A. F. S. Hill, R.E., Mr. C. S. Pennell, Captain E. L. -Caldecott, R.A., among officers of the personal Staff, it is not that -I value less highly the loyalty and good service of their colleagues. -If I were to mention Commissioners, district, and departmental officers -to whom I am indebted, I must name practically the whole Commission and -plagiarize many pages of the Civil List. - -So after a chequered career we bade farewell to Burma, fairest and -brightest of Eastern lands, the memory of whose happy people will -always be enshrined in our hearts. - - - - -GLOSSARY - - -[Containing only Burmese words used more than once, or not explained in -text or notes.] - - _amat_ = Minister. - - _atu-ma-shi_ = incomparable. "There is none like her--none." - - _bein-sa_ = opium-eater. - - _bo_ = chief, leader. - - _da_ = a knife of any sort. - - _Ein-she-min_ = heir-apparent. - - _gyi_ = great. - - _hlutdaw_ = Council of State. - - _kala_ = barbarian, a foreigner from the West. - - _kappiya-taga_ = a lay attendant of a monastery. - - _kin-bya_ = a somewhat familiar form of address. - - _ko-mi_ = a game of cards. - - _ku-tho-daw_ = royal merit. - - _kyaung_ = monastery. - - _kyaung-taga_ = founder of a monastery. - - _maung_ = much the same as "Mr." - - _min_ = King, lord. - - _mingyi_ = great lord, high official; in this book, one of the four - chief Ministers of State. - - _min-laung_ = an embryo _min_. - - _min-tha_ = Prince, son of a _min_. - - _Mi-paya_ = Queen. - - _m[)y]o_ = city, town, township, circle. - - _m[)y]o-ok_ = officer in charge of a township, a member of the - Subordinate Civil Service. - - _m[)y]o-ok-gavaw_ = M[)y]o-ok's wife. - - _m[)y]o-sa_ = a title of a Shan chief (in his book). - - _m[)y]o-thu-gyi_ = head of a _m[)y]o_ or circle. - - _m[)y]o-wun_ = town magistrate. - - _nan_ } = palace. - _nandaw_ } - - _nat_ = a spiritual being. - - _neik-ban_--_Nirvana_ = the state of rest. - - _pa-dauk_ = a tree yielding excellent timber and bearing lovely - flowers. - - _pa-ya_ = a pagoda, a sacred image, a title of honour = lord. - - _pe-nin_ = helmsman. - - _pon-gyi_ = a monk; literally, "great glory." - - _pon-na_ = Hindus of Mandalay, descendants of captives from Assam or - Manipur. - - _pwe_ = an assembly, most commonly an entertainment of a dramatic - nature. - - _pya-that_ = a terraced spire. - - _sa-daw_ = a monk of high position. - - _Saw-bwa_ = a title of a Shan chief. - - _sa-ye-daw-gyi_ = clerks or secretaries of the _hlutdaw_. - - _shwe_ = gold, golden. - - _Su-paya_ = a Princess of royal birth on both sides. - - _taik_ = a territorial division, called in English a "circle." - - _taik-thu-gyi_ = headman of a circle. - - _tamein_ = a woman's skirt. - - _taung-ya_ = hill-cultivation. - - _tha-tha-na-baing_ = head of the monastic Order. - - _thu-gyi_ = headman; literally, "great man." - - _twet_ = a term applied to a monk who renounces his Order. - - _win_ = a house and grounds. - - _wun_ = an official title of varying denotation. - - _yo-ma_ = a range of hills; literally, "backbone." - - _za-yat_ = a rest-house. - - _ze-gyo_ = the great bazaar or market at Mandalay. - - - - -FOOTNOTES: - - -[1] _Mok-so-bo-myo_, the hunter's city. - -[2] See p. 107. - -[3] Great or headman of the circle. - -[4] Principal taxpayer. - -[5] Headman of the village. - -[6] Members of the Provincial Civil Service. - -[7] Literally, heads of townships, members of the Subordinate Civil -Service. - -[8] Major-General T. Lowndes, I.S.C. - -[9] Mr. B. Ribbentrop, C.I.E. - -[10] The late Sir Augustus Rivers Thompson, K.C.S.I., Lieut.-Governor -of Bengal. - -[11] This term, formerly in ordinary use, is now obsolete. - -[12] Paddy is the local name for unhusked rice. - -[13] _Gyi_, great. - -[14] Major-General Horace Browne, I.S.C. - -[15] Colonel C. H. E. Adamson, C.I.E. - -[16] Mr. A. H. Hildebrand, C.I.E. - -[17] Called after General Godwin, who commanded the force in the Second -War. - -[18] The population of Rangoon in 1881 was 134,176; in 1911 it numbered -293,316. In 1878 its trade was valued at L10,484,469, as compared with -L32,040,000 in 1911 (private trade alone). - -[19] A Chief Commissioner, newly arrived, whose face was not yet -familiar, was told by a barber in the town, in the course of his -ministration, that he should try to join the gymkhana, as that was the -way to get into society. - -[20] Afterwards of the Commission. - -[21] _Nat_, a spiritual being in Burmese mythology. For a full account -of nats the curious may refer to Sir Richard Temple's learned and -sumptuous work "The Thirty-Seven Nats." - -[22] This is, however, a matter of taste. A lady told me that the only -thing which made it worth while to come to Rangoon was the Strand -Hotel, with its general comfort and its incomparable omelette. The -pagoda merely impressed her as "a messy place." Perhaps she was only -playing upon the poor Indian's simplicity. - -[23] _Kala_ is as nearly as possible barbarian, and has a connotation -of contempt. It is applied by the Burmese to all foreigners from the -West, Indians or Europeans. A Chinaman is a cousin, so is a Siamese. -Neither of these is a kala. - -[24] The late Mr. G. D. Burgess, C.S.I. - -[25] The late Sir Charles Aitchison, K.C.S.I., successively Member of -Council and Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab. - -[26] Maung Pe, I.S.O., K.S.M. - -[27] The first Viceroy was Lord Canning. Many people erroneously think -that Clive or, perhaps, Warren Hastings was the first who attained that -dignity. - -[28] _Mingyi_, one of the four principal ministers. Literally, great -lord. - -[29] _Mintha_, prince. - -[30] See p. 126. - -[31] There is a subtlety here. _Ko_ is one of the Burmese equivalents -of Mr., more respectful than Maung. - -[32] Council of State at Mandalay. - -[33] As to grammar, Latter helped us in those early years. Students of -to-day, more fortunate, have the invaluable help of Mr. Bridges' book. - -[34] What it really wrote was "clearness and simplicity." - -[35] Early breakfast. - -[36] The late Colonel F. D. Maxwell, C.I.E. - -[37] The late Sir Edward Spence Symes, K.C.I.E. - -[38] Sir Colin Scott-Moncrieff, K.C.S.I., K.C.M.G. - -[39] The late Sir Charles Bernard, K.C.S.I., for some years Secretary -in the Revenue and Statistics Department at the India Office. - -[40] "Don't let them do that, they'll take me for a Burmese Minister," -he called out, as officious underlings were hustling some carts out of -his path as he rode through Mandalay. - -[41] Among many mistaken appreciations of Burmese character is the -notion that Burmans have no sense of gratitude. This story indicates -the contrary. Since my retirement I have been touched by the frequent -receipt of letters and other tokens of remembrance from Burmese friends -obviously disinterested. - -[42] _Ti_, an umbrella; also the ornamental summit of a pagoda. - -[43] The Arakan Pagoda, as we call it, at Mandalay. - -[44] Sergeant or Thugyi's wife. - -[45] _A-pyo-gyi._ - -[46] _Tha-yet-m[)y]o_, not the city of mangoes, as might be supposed, but -the city of slaughter. - -[47] Streams. - -[48] In _taungya_ cultivation, the farmer prepares a piece of -forest-land by setting fire to the trees and undergrowth, and -fertilizing the ground with the ashes. Rice and vegetables are sown -broadcast. Except by careful Chins, the same piece of land is not used -again till the forest growth has been renewed. It is a wasteful plan, -rightly discouraged. - -[49] Tiger fence. - -[50] _Da_, a knife; in this case a Burmese sword. - -[51] _Paso_, _longyi_, skirts worn by Burmese men, the former of ampler -size. - -[52] The Burmese man's headgear. - -[53] Local civil officer. - -[54] In Mandalay, in 1886, a _parvenu_ official was guilty of the same -breach of decorum on entering my office. I made no remark at the time, -but I mentioned the incident to his friends. The Prime Minister seemed -surprised that the earth had not opened and swallowed up that fearful -man. The offence was not repeated. - -[55] Now Sir John Jardine, K.C.I.E., M.P. for Roxburghshire. - -[56] Elephant driver. - -[57] Colonel William Cooke, lately Commissary-General in Madras. - -[58] _Atwin Wun_, one of the classes of Ministers, so called from being -nominally employed inside (atwin) the Palace, near the person of the -King. - -[59] As Burma was not under the Madras Government, this arrangement was -anomalous and inconvenient; after the war it was abolished. - -[60] The late Sir Godfrey Clerk, K.C.V.O., C.B. - -[61] Now Colonel Sir Neville Chamberlain, K.C.B., K.C.V.O., Inspector- -General, Royal Irish Constabulary. - -[62] Major-General Sir George Pretyman, K.C.M.G., C.B., R.A., whom I -met not again till he came to succeed Sir Donald Macleod at May-m[)y]o, -where he spent the last year of his service in command of the Burma -Division. - -[63] _Yoma_, a range of hills; literally, backbone. - -[64] The Right Honourable Sir Henry Primrose, P.C., K.C.B., C.S.I., -I.S.O. - -[65] The Earl of Cromer, P.C., G.C.B., O.M., G.C.M.G., K.C.S.I., C.I.E. - -[66] Guardians of the Royal life. - -[67] Sir Charles Crosthwaite, K.C.S.I. - -[68] Mr. C. G. Bayne, C.S.I., whose early retirement deprived the -Province of an invaluable officer. - -[69] Sir Alfred Irwin, C.S.I., lately a Judge of the Chief Court. - -[70] The Myingun Prince was a son of Mindon Min, who in the year 1867 -rebelled against his father. Defeated, he fled to Lower Burma, where he -continued to plan mischief. He was deported to India; later, he escaped -to French territory, and lived for many years at Saigon. He was long -a source of some apprehension to Government, and a likely cause of -trouble; but I think for some time he has been regarded as harmless. - -[71] Messengers. - -[72] Broad hat made of bamboo. - -[73] Most of this paragraph is extracted verbatim from my Report on the -Administration of Upper Burma in 1886. - -[74] Administrative Report for 1886 _ut supra_. - -[75] _Ibid._ - -[76] A woman's skirt. - -[77] The late General Sir Harry Prendergast, V.C., G.C.B. - -[78] The late Field-Marshal Sir George White, V.C., G.C.B., G.C.S.I., -G.C.M.G., G.C.I.E., G.C.V.O., O.M., Commander-in-Chief in India, the -heroic defender of Ladysmith. - -[79] The late General Sir W. Penn Symons, K.C.B., who served with the -highest distinction in Burma and India, and met a soldier's death at -Talana Hill. - -[80] The late Sir Edward Sladen. - -[81] Nephew of Sir Arthur Phayre; he died for his country in June, -1886, at Padein, near Minbu. - -[82] The subjoined table shows the succession of the Kings of the House -of Alaungpaya. The dates and details were gathered from the lips of -Ministers in 1886: - - Alaungpaya (1752-1760). - | - +------------------+--------------------+ - | | - 2. Naungdaw 6. Bodaw Paya 3. Sinbyu-yin - Mintayagyi (1781-1819). Mintayagyi - (1760-1763). | (1763-1776). - | | | - 5. Paungga Min Einshe Min 4. Singu - (reigned seven (died before Mintayagyi - days in 1781). his father). (1776-1781). - | - +-------------------+-----------------+ - | | - 7. Bagyidaw Paya 8. Shwebo Min (King Tharrawaddy) - (1819-1838). | (1838-1846). - | - +-------------+-----------+ - | | - 9. Pagan Min 10. Mindon Min - (1846-1852). (1852-1878). - | - 11. Thebaw Min - (1878-1885). - -[83] Royal Herald. - -[84] _Wun_, a local official of varying rank; probably in this case -about equal to a subdivisional officer. - -[85] Head revenue officer. - -[86] Major-General T. Lowndes, I.S.C. - -[87] Colonel C. H. E. Adamson, C.I.E. - -[88] Wife (in this case widow) of the chief local authority. - -[89] Incomparable. - -[90] Council of Ministers. - -[91] Monastery. - -[92] The Hill of Peace. - -[93] This stone disappeared the day after the occupation of Mandalay. -It was never suggested that any of the force of occupation was guilty -of the theft. - -[94] Pagoda of Royal Merit. - -[95] U Pe Si, C.I.E., one of the first Upper Burmans to receive a -British decoration. - -[96] The late Mr. T. F. Fforde, of the Burma Commission, who died as -Deputy Commissioner of Sagaing. - -[97] Queen. - -[98] _Mintha_, prince. - -[99] See p. 30. - -[100] The late Major-General R. A. P. Clements, C.B., D.S.O. - -[101] Major-General H. d'U. Keary, C.B., D.S.O. - -[102] Colonel R. M. Rainey-Robinson, C.B. - -[103] Horse-keepers. - -[104] Technically, a dacoit is one of five or more persons banded -together for purposes of robbery. It has been the custom to apply the -term to all our opponents in Upper Burma, after the King's surrender. -Even technically, the use was almost invariably justified. - -[105] Circle headman, much like a Taik-Thugyi in Lower Burma. - -[106] Cavalrymen. - -[107] P. 130. - -[108] The Right Hon. Sir Mortimer Durand, P.C., G.C.M.G., K.C.S.I., -K.C.I.E., successively Minister at Teheran and Ambassador at Madrid and -Washington. - -[109] The late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, K.C.S.I., Chief Commissioner of -Burma, Member of Council, and Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. - -[110] Sir Donald Mackenzie Wallace, K.C.I.E., K.C.V.O., best known, -perhaps, as the author of the standard work on Russia. - -[111] Field-Marshal Lord Nicholson, G.C.B., R.E. - -[112] General Sir Ian Hamilton, G.C.B., D.S.O. - -[113] Colonel Sir Neville Chamberlain, K.C.B., K.C.V.O., Inspector- -General Royal Irish Constabulary. - -[114] Lieutenant-General Sir Reginald Pole-Carew, K.C.B., C.V.O., M.P. - -[115] Palace. - -[116] Temporary pavilion. - -[117] Mr. St. Barbe had a marked turn for letters. Some of his papers -may be found in the _Cornhill Magazine_ of the seventies. - -[118] The late Mr. G. J. S. Hodgkinson, C.S.I., afterwards the first -Judicial Commissioner of Upper Burma. - -[119] Now Mr. Taw Sein Ko, I.S.O., recipient of the Kaiser-i-Hind -medal, Superintendent of the Burma Archaeological Survey. I gratefully -acknowledge much valuable help from him in the preparation of this book. - -[120] Messenger. - -[121] Raja log ate hain - -[122] See p. 27. - -[123] See p. 126. - -[124] See p. 67 _et seq._ - -[125] Already mentioned, p. 125. - -[126] There is one more who has lived in obscurity in Rangoon for many -years. - -[127] See p. 122. - -[128] _Supaya_ means a Princess of royal parentage on both sides. -Except the King's sister, there was in Mandalay only one real holder of -the title, the Pyinzi Supaya. - -[129] Elder royal sister. - -[130] Queen. - -[131] See p. 270. - -[132] See pp. 123-4. - -[133] See p. 210 _et seq._ - -[134] Headman of a town or circle, much like a Taik-Thugyi in Lower -Burma. - -[135] Village headman. - -[136] Sir Frederic Fryer, K.C.S.I., Chief Commissioner and first -Lieutenant-Governor of Burma. - -[137] Sir James Digges la Touche, K.C.S.I., Lieutenant-Governor of the -United Provinces and a Member of the Council of India. - -[138] The late Mr. H. P. Todd-Naylor, C.S.I., C.I.E., Commissioner and -acting Financial Commissioner. - -[139] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[140] Colonel H. A. Browning, afterwards Chief Commissioner of the -Andaman Islands. - -[141] Mr. B. S. Carey, C.I.E., Commissioner. - -[142] Mr. H. M. S. Matthews, C.S.I., Settlement Commissioner. - -[143] The late Major-General M. Prothero, C.B., C.S.I., afterwards -commanding the Burma Division. - -[144] Commander-in-Chief of the Madras Army. - -[145] Colonel E. T. Gastrell. - -[146] _Bo_, a chief or leader. - -[147] "The Pacification of Burma." - -[148] See p. 106. - -[149] Chief of eleven hundred and fifty men. He was also called the -Mobye-Sitke-gyi. - -[150] Perhaps most familiar to English readers in "A Persian Passion -Play"--Matthew Arnold's "Essays in Criticism." - -[151] See p. 146. - -[152] This solemn farce is, I think, still played. Of course, no -astrology is needed. The method of calculation is explained in Sir -Alfred Irwin's learned book on the Burmese Calendar. - -[153] Literally, great blood-drinker, a Burmese official designation of -various connotation. Tun Baw was hereditary door-keeper and custodian -of the Hlutdaw building. He still survives in receipt of a modest -pension for faithful service. - -[154] Earthen pots. - -[155] See p. 115. - -[156] _Brinjal_, a vegetable; _jingal_, a small cannon. - -[157] See p. 123. - -[158] Lord High Admiral. - -[159] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[160] See p. 266. The Myowun died this year. - -[161] Embankment. - -[162] Fire-carriage. - -[163] Ponkan was a bogey to the people of Bhamo till it was settled, -without much difficulty, by Sir George Wolseley in 1889. - -[164] The highest title of a Shan chief. - -[165] See p. 17. - -[166] Chief wife. - -[167] House and compound. - -[168] Advisers, ministers. - -[169] See p. 149. - -[170] Mr. A. H. Hildebrand, C.I.E. - -[171] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[172] General Sir Edward Stedman, G.C.B., K.C.I.E., successively -Inspector-General of Police in Burma, Quartermaster-General in India, -General Officer Commanding the Burma Division, and Military Secretary -at the India Office, one of the most distinguished officers of the -Bengal Army. - -[173] Pickled tea. - -[174] My wife spent the hot season of 1888 at May-m[)y]o, the first -Englishwoman who ever visited it. - -[175] _Hein_, a Shan official of about the standing of a Circle Thugyi -in Burma. - -[176] 13s. 4d. - -[177] See p. 45 _et seq._ - -[178] The suppleness of Burmese women is remarkable. To lean backwards -and pick up with the eyelid a rupee placed on the floor is not an -unknown feat. - -[179] Sir George White's close connection with Upper Burma was never -forgotten. When Ladysmith was relieved, the Upper Burma Club sent -him a telegram of congratulation, of which we received a courteous -acknowledgment, probably the only instance of an exchange of telegrams -between Mandalay and Ladysmith. - -[180] A great deal of nonsense has been written from time to time on -the subject of the Burmese custom of _Shiko_. A Burman coming into -the presence of a superior, a monk, a member of the royal house, an -official, an elder of his family, adopts an attitude akin to kneeling, -and places the palms of his hands together. Placing the palms of the -hands together and slightly raising them is the essence of the attitude -of respect. It is a charming and graceful salutation. In European -schools boys are taught to adopt instead a weird caricature of a -military salute or a debased imitation of the Indian salaam, which they -do ungracefully and with the ugliest effect. I do not care very much -for the prostration on the floor, and think it may be overdone. I used -to make people of any standing sit uncomfortably on chairs. But what -objection there can be to the hands slightly lifted in reverence, a -natural and beautiful action, why it should be thought more dignified -to pretend to cast dust on the head in salaaming, I cannot understand. -The last outrage perpetrated in school is to teach boys to stand with -arms folded across their chests in the presence of their elders and -betters. - -[181] Heads of _Gaings_, that is, collections of monasteries; -assistants to _Gaing-oks_, heads of large monastic institutions. -Roughly, I think, this is a fair interpretation. In speaking of -these dignitaries, I abstain from the common practice of using the -nomenclature of Christian Churches. The analogies are superficial. - -[182] In this instance a formal document setting forth the terms of the -recognition. - -[183] A Hindu gentleman, orthodox but emancipated, after a tour in -Burma, did me the honour of dining at my table. In the course of the -evening he said to me that, after seeing Burma, he thought it much to -be regretted that Buddhism had not maintained itself as the prevailing -religion of India. - -[184] One patriarchal Deputy Commissioner made a law that carts -entering his headquarter town, at least by the road which passed his -house, should not creak. Every cart before long carried a small pot -of oil, and at a respectful distance halted while the wheels were -effectively greased. - -[185] _Thein_, a very sacred building, containing images of the -Buddha, where ordination services are held. The land on which a -_thein_ is built must be sacred in perpetuity and granted by the King. -In modern practice grants of land for _theins_ are signed by the -Lieutenant-Governor himself. - -[186] See p. 45 _et seq._ - -[187] A feast and presentation of gifts to monks. - -[188] A monk of high position. - -[189] This excellent example has, I am glad to say, been followed. -Several gaols are regularly visited by monks, who exhort prisoners to -repentance and a new life. - -[190] Then Commissioner of the Irrawaddy Division. - -[191] Government. - -[192] "The Pacification of Burma," by Sir Charles Crosthwaite. (Arnold, -1912.) - -[193] Terraced spires over the gates. - -[194] See p. 106. - -[195] I need not mention this sportsman's name. It was neither Andrew -Thomson nor Jem Bernard. - -[196] Messengers. - -[197] Store-room. - -[198] Valet. - -[199] Table-servant. - -[200] The late Mr. D. M. Smeaton, C.S.I., for some years M.P. for -Stirlingshire. - -[201] Hidden by the curtain. - -[202] Panthays are Chinese Mohammedans of Yunnan. - -[203] Mr. H. F. Hertz, C.I.E. - -[204] _Cf._ "The Pacification of Burma," p. 239 _et seq._ - -[205] Brigadier-General Hugh O'Donnell, C.B., D.S.O. - -[206] A curious sight often to be seen outside of Bhamo was a drove of -pigs brought from China, each pig at night picketed to a small peg. -Hard by baskets of walnuts deluded the stranger into the belief that -the pigs, like pack-bullocks, were made to carry the baskets. - -[207] The station of that name on the Myitkyina line used perversely to -be called by railway engineers "One-two." - -[208] Mr. Fielding-Hall, the accomplished author of "The Soul of a -People." - -[209] Sir Frank Campbell Gates, K.C.I.E., C.S.I., Financial Commissioner -of Burma. - -[210] Now a Judge of the Chief Court. - -[211] "The Pacification of Burma." - -[212] It remained for the ingenuity of the Courts in later years to -discover that in the eye of the law the headman was not a respectable -inhabitant. - -[213] Lieutenant-Colonel D. J. C. Macnabb, C.S.I., Commissioner of the -Minbu division. - -[214] Colonel F. M. Rundall, C.B., D.S.O. - -[215] Lieutenant-Colonel F. S. Le Quesne, V.C., R.A.M.C. - -[216] Mr. E. S. Carr, now Conservator of Forests. - -[217] Afterwards Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. - -[218] Lord MacDonnell of Swinford, P.C., G.C.S.I., K.C.V.O. - -[219] Sir Edward Stedman, already often mentioned. - -[220] Mr. A. H. Hildebrand, C.I.E. - -[221] Sir J. George Scott, K.C.I.E. - -[222] "The Pacification of Burma." - -[223] A full account of the Shans is to be found in Mrs. Leslie Milne's -charming book, "The Shans at Home." - -[224] _Myelat_ = middle country--the name given to the small Western -States bordering on Burma proper. - -[225] The Honourable Saw Maung (_Sao Mawng_), C.I.E., K.S.M., Member of -the Local Legislative Council. - -[226] See note, p. 138. - -[227] Mounted military police. - -[228] Sun helmet. - -[229] Sir G. W. Shaw, C.S.I., acting Lieutenant-Governor of Burma. - -[230] Nursery of seedlings. - -[231] Mr. E. C. S. George, C.I.E., I.C.S. (retired), whom ill-health -alone prevented from attaining the highest distinction. - -[232] See p. 250. - -[233] General the Right Honourable Sir Henry Brackenbury, P.C., G.C.B., -K.C.S.I., R.A. - -[234] Sir William John Cuningham, K.C.S.I. - -[235] Now Major-General Sir Hamilton Bower, K.C.B., recently commanding -the Abor Expedition. - -[236] Arrangements. - -[237] Surgeon-General O. E. P. Lloyd, V.C., R.A.M.C. - -[238] See p. 76. - -[239] Early breakfast. - -[240] In recent years much of the country east of the 'Nmaikha has been -taken under administration. Forts have been built and roads made far -north of 'Nsentaru. - -[241] See p. 305. - -[242] _Kazins._ - -[243] Maung Aung Zan, K.S.M., District Judge. See p. 25. - -[244] A viss was then equal to 3.65 pounds avoirdupois. It has now been -standardized at 3.60 pounds. - -[245] Native servant (_bhai_). - -[246] A dacoit leader in Tharrawaddy in the early days of the -pacification of Pegu (1852-1860). This reward was offered by the -Government of India instead of the modest two thousand suggested by -Sir Arthur Phayre. Gaung Gyi went across the frontier when Tharrawaddy -became too hot. I met some of his descendants in Mandalay. - -[247] Major W. R. Stone, I.A. - -[248] I refrain from specifying many others, still living, lest by -naming some I seem to slight others equally worthy. - -[249] See p. 122. - -[250] See p. 166. - -[251] For years afterwards, perhaps to this day, as a measure of -superabundant caution, the city gates were closed early in the night, -to the annoyance and inconvenience of strayed revellers returning late -from dance or dinner without the walls. - -[252] Brigadier-General W. H. Dobbie, C.B., commanding a brigade in -India. - -[253] See p. 195. - -[254] For many years Chinese adviser to the Government of Burma. - -[255] Colonel F. B. Longe, C.B., R.E., formerly Surveyor-General in -India. - -[256] Colonel E. W. M. Norie, A.D.C., Assistant Military Secretary at -the War Office. - -[257] Major J. W. L. ffrench-Mullen, C.I.E., Commandant of the -Myitkyina Battalion of Military Police. - -[258] A temporary hall built for the occasion, of mats and bamboos, -gaily adorned with flowers and curtains and paper ornaments. - -[259] Teacher. - -[260] See p. 115. - -[261] Sir Harvey Adamson, K.C.S.I., Lieutenant-Governor of Burma, -formerly Member of the Council of the Governor-General. - -[262] The late Sir Denzil Ibbetson, K.C.S.I., Lieutenant-Governor of -the Punjab. - -[263] The late Sir Edward Baker, K.C.S.I., afterwards Lieutenant- -Governor of Bengal, whose early death we have had but lately to deplore. - -[264] I am aware that he has to obtain the Viceroy's concurrence; but -he has the advantage of the last word. - -[265] I need hardly say (as I proposed it) that I regard this as a -sound measure. - -[266] See note on p. 295. - -[267] Some of these officers are Arakanese, one a Talaing; all are -natives of Burma. - -[268] I must not be thought to regard these addresses with levity. I -appreciated them highly, and have preserved them all. - -[269] I have elsewhere paid my humble tribute of respect to Dr. -Cushing's memory. The first person to join with me in lamenting his -loss was the Right Reverend Bishop Cardot, of the Roman Catholic -Church. Our own Bishop was not backward in expressing his sorrow and -appreciation. In Burma, at least, there is some unity among Christians. - -[270] Mr. G. C. B. Stirling, C.I.E. - -[271] See p. 175. - -[272] House of a Shan Chief. - -[273] Skirt. - -[274] Knife, of any size. - -[275] Kakusandha, Konagamana, Kassapa, Gaudama. - -[276] Eaters (= owners) of wells. - -[277] See p. 250. - -[278] Mr. W. A. Hertz, C.S.I. - -[279] See p. 249. - -[280] Sir Frank Campbell Gates, K.C.I.E., C.S.I. - -[281] Sir Lionel Jacob, K.C.S.I., too soon carried off to be Secretary -to the Government of India in the Public Works Department. - - - - -INDEX - - - Adamson, Colonel C. H. E., 9, 114, 123, 166, 213, 221 - - Adamson, Sir H., 8, 284, 286 - - Aitchison, Sir C. U., 18, 26 - - Akyab, 297, 299 - - Alaungpaya, 2, 107, 108, 216 - - Allan-myo, 74 _et seq._ - - Allen, Mr. C. F. E., 17, 171 - - Amarapura, 120, 181 - - Annexation of Upper Burma, 140, 142 - - Arakan Pagoda, 121, 197, 200 - - Arbuthnot, Mr. R. E. V., 306 - - Ardagh, Sir J., 244 - - Arnold, Mr. G. F., 306 - - Art industries, 63 _et seq._ - - Atlay, Mr. F., 204 - - A-tu-ma-shi Monastery, 118, 121 - - Aung, Maung Myat Tun, 295 - - Ava, 106, 129, 130, 132 - - Ava, Earl of, 138 - - Aw, Bo, 207 - - - Baber, Mr. C., 222 - - Bahadur Shah, 208, 209 - - Bakht, Mirza Jamshid, 209 - - Bakht, Prince Jawan, 209 - - Banmauk, 252 - - Barnes, Sir H. S., 286 - - Bassein, 10, 17, 74, 260, 297 - - Baw, Tun, 164 - - Bayne, Mr. C. G., 90, 94, 207, 218 - - Beresford, Lord W., 139, 244 - - Bernard, Sir C. E., 52, 53, 92, 94, 95, 104, 114, 115, 116, 125, 134, - 136, 140, 143, 144, 149, 154, 155, 157, 160, 161, 168, 170, 173, 176, - 182, 189, 257 - - Bernard, Mr. J. H., 144 - - Bernard-myo, 203 - - Bhamo, 170, 211 _et seq._, 223, 239, 242, 244, 251, 252, 272, 287 - - Bigaudet, Bishop, 49 - - Boat-races, 61 - - Bon, Thandawzin So, 111 - - Bower, Sir H., 245 - - Bowers, Captain A., 304 - - Bowers, Lieutenant H. R., 304 - - Boxing, 73 - - Brackenbury, Sir H., 244 - - Bradford, Sir E., 224 - - Bridges, Mr. J. E., 173 - - Briscoe, Rev. J. D., 86 - - Browning, Colonel H. A., 158 - - Buddha, relics of, 199 - - Buddhism, 183 _et seq._ - - Burgess, Mr. G. D., 18, 19, 20, 24, 51, 81, 90, 92, 95, 99, 156, 217, - 255, 277 - - Burma, Lower, disorder in, 137, 221 - - Bwa, Maung Ba, 261, 264 - - Bya, U., 25 - - - Caldecott, Captain E. L., 306 - - Cardot, Bishop, 298 - - Carew, Sir R. Pole-, 138 - - Carey, Mr. B. S., 158, 221 - - Carter, Mr. G. M. S., 114, 166, 204 - - Carving, wood, 65 - - Caste, absence of, 67 - - Cattle theft, 80 - - Chamberlain, Sir N., 88, 138 - - Chesney, Sir G., 116 - - Chess, Burmese, 57 - - Chief Court, 280, 285 - - Chindwin River, 10, 300 - - Chin-lon, 59 - - Chin Hills, 170, 221 - - Chinese Boundary, 244, 271 _et seq._ - - Chinese, relations with, 243 - - Chinese Shan States, 275 - - Chisholm, Mr. M. J., 114 - - Cho, Bo, 161, 259, 260 - - Churchill, Lord R., 122, 258 - - Claims against Government, 169 - - Clandeboye, Lord, 138 - - Class distinctions, 151 - - Clements, Major-General R. A. P., 129, 133 - - Clerk, Sir G., 88 - - Climate, 85 - - Cloney, Mr. E. P., 217 - - Cock-fighting, 59 - - Collins, Mr. G. G., 14, 106 - - Connaught, T.R.H. the Duke and Duchess of, 287 - - Connaught, H.R.H. Princess Patricia of, 287 - - Cooke, Colonel W., 86 - - Cooper, Captain, 103 - - Co-operative Credit Movement, 297 - - Copleston, Mr. F. S., 280, 285 - - Courneuve, Mr. de la, 51 - - Cromer, Earl of, 89 - - Crosthwaite, Sir C. H. T., 90, 161, 168, 201, 203, 219, 231, 233, 234, - 257 - - Cuningham, Sir W. J., 244 - - Curzon, Earl, 286, 287, 288 - - Cushing, Rev. J. N., 298 - - - Dacoits, 132, 161 - - d'Avera, M., 30 - - Davies, Colonel H. N., 86 - - Decentralization Commission, 81, 292 - - Defile, First, 215, 251, 306 - Second, 214 - - Delhi, Durbar, at, 130, 284 - - Delhi, Royal Family of, 208-10 - - Deputy Commissioner, position and powers of, 23 - - Disarmament, 168 - - Divorce, 71, 72 - - Dobbie, Brigadier-General, 269 - - Drever, Captain J. W., 248 - - Drinks, intoxicating, 56, 57 - - Dufferin and Ava, Marquis of, 138, 139, 141, 166 - - Dufferin and Ava, Marchioness of, 139, 141 - - Dun, Captain E. W., 178 - - Durand, Sir H. M., 138 - - Durians, 68 - - Dutt, Mr. R. C., 293 - - - Education, elementary, 184 - - Einshemin, 122, 149 - - Elgin, Earl of, 284 - - Eliott, Mr. L., 213 - - Elliott, Sir C., 224 - - English, Mr. A. E., 297 - - Eyre, Colonel G. S., 106, 123, 259 - - - Fenwick, Major, 129 - - Ferrars, Mr. M. H., 34 - - Fforde, Mr. T. F., 5, 123, 166 - - ffrench-Mullen, Major J. W. L., 272 - - Finlay, Sir C. K., 304 - - Fleming, Mr. A. S., 106, 123, 218, 237 - - Football, 59 - - Forde, Brigadier-General, 105 - - Forest Department, 6 - - Fowler, Mr. E. O., 221 - - Fraser, Major F. J., 306 - - Fryer, Sir F. W. R., 156, 218, 235, 237, 256 - - - Gambling, 57-59 - - Gastrell, Colonel E. T., 159 - - Gates, Sir F. C., 218, 306 - - George, Mr. E. C. S., 242, 245, 251, 271, 272, 277, 298 - - Gordon, Mr. R., 51 - - Grant, General U. S., 32 - - Grey, Colonel W. F. H., 86 - - Gyaw, Maung Tin, 261, 263, 264 - - Gyi, Gaung, 260 - - - Hall, Mr. Fielding, 217 - - Hamilton, Sir I., 138 - - Harvey, Mr. W. L., 289 - - Hassan, Prince, 152, 210 - - Henzada, 10, 261 - - Hertz, Mr. H. F., 213, 274 - - Hertz, Mr. W. A., 305 - - Hildebrand, Mr. A. H., 9, 176, 179, 226, 227, 233 - - Hill, Captain A. F. S., 306 - - Hindus and Mahomedans, 234 _et seq._ - - Hke, Saw, 175, 299 - - Hladwe Sadaw, 189 - - Hlaingdet, 231 - - Hlethin Atwinwun, 166 - - Hlutdaw, 118, 122, 123, 134, 143, 144, 145 - - Hlwa, Maung, 129 - - Hodgkinson, Mr. G. J. S., 144, 207 - - Hopin, 305 - - Houghton, Mr. B., 222 - - - Ibbetson, Sir D., 18, 289 - - Ilbert Bill, 92-94 - - Imlumshan, 277 - - Indawgyi, 305 - - Inle, 231 - - Insects, 84 - - Irrawaddy, _passim_ - - Irrawaddy Division, 260 - - Irrigation works, 240 - - Irwin, Sir A. M. B., 95, 163 - - - Jacob, Sir L. M., 306 - - Jade Mines, 213, 250 - - James, Mr. H. W., 83 - - Jardine, Sir J., 82 - - Jubilee, H.M. Queen Victoria's, 173, 180 - - Judicial Administration, 5 - - - Kachin Hills, 170, 211, 214, 221, 242, 245 - - Kachins, 241-242 - - Kalaw, 231 - - Kale, 226 - - Kanaung, 95 - - Kansi La, 213 - - Kansi Naung, 213 - - Karenni, 172, 226 - - Katha, 217, 239, 252 - - Kaunghmu-daw Pagoda, 135 - - Kawlin, 217 - - Kawlin Mintha, 148 - - Keary, Major-General H. d'U., 129 - - Kengtung (Kyaington), 177, 225, 227, 298 - - Kheddah, Elephant, 181 - - King Mindon, 27 _et seq._, 100, 109, 125, 148, 149, 166, 169, 180, 216 - - King Pagan, 27, 147 - - King Thebaw, 29, 107, 108, 109, 118, 125, 126, 169 - - Kinwun Mingyi, 30, 101, 103, 104, 106, 109, 120, 134, 147, 186, 217, - 267 - - Ko, Mr. Taw Sein, 144 - - Kuthodaw Paya, 122 - - Kyangin, 95 - - Kyan-hnyat, 203 - - Kyankmyaung Atwinwun, 86 - - Kyaukpyu, 295, 299 - - Kyi, Maung Shwe, 6 - - Kyimyin Mipaya, 125 - - - Lacquer-work, 64 - - Ladysmith, 182 - - Land Alienation, 296 - - Lansdowne, Marquis of, 244 - - Lansdowne, Marchioness of, 244 - - Lasa, 275 - - Lashio, 10, 254 - - La Touche, Sir J. D., 156 - - Lat, Maung, 79 _et seq._ - - Le, Ma Twe, 180 - - Le Quesne, Colonel F. S., 221 - - Le, Yindaw Ma, 180 - - Ledi Sadaw, 197 _et seq._ - - Lely, Sir F. P., 293 - - Let-pet, 63 - - Lewisohn, Mr. F., 306 - - Limban Mipaya, 150 - - Liu, General, 272 _et seq._ - - Lloyd, Surgeon-General O. E. P., 245 - - Loch, Mr., 159 - - Longe, Colonel F. B., 272 - - Lowndes, Major-General T., 5, 114, 115, 135 - - Lu, Saw, 175 - - Lu, Twet Nga, 227 - - Lytton, Earl of, 27 - - - MacDermott, Mr. B. K. S., 82, 216 - - MacDonnell, Lord, 224 - - Mackenzie, Sir A., 138, 234, 235, 255, 256, 257 - - Macnabb, Colonel D. J. C., 221, 261 - - Macpherson, Sir H., 159 - - Mahomedans and Hindus, 235 _et seq._ - - Maingkaing Myosa, 180 - - Mainglon, 173, 299 - - Maington, 173 - - Mali-kha, 248, 249 - - Mandalay, _passim_ - - Mansi, 252 - - Marriage customs, 71, 146 - - Matang (Matin), 276 - - Mathews, Mr. H. M. S., 158 - - Maung, Saw, 232-233 - - Mawlamyaing-gyun, 41 - - Maxwell, Colonel F. D., 51, 198 - - May, Colonel, 178 - - Maym[)y]o, 178, 231, 254, 299 - - Meiktila Supaya, 149 - - Mergui, 299 - - Min, Maung Tun, 295 - - Minbu, 156 - - Mindon Min, 27 _et seq._, 100, 109, 125, 148, 149, 166, 169, 180, 216 - - Mingin, Wun of, 111-113 - - Minhla, 106, 114, 123 - - Ministers, Council of, 145-146 - - Minto, Earl of, 149, 287, 293 - - Minto, Countess of, 287 - - Missions, 49, 50 - - Mobon, 75 - - Mogaung, 213, 250 - - Mogok, 177, 204, 205, 252, 298, 299 - - Momien, 214 - - Moengmit (Momeik), 298 - - Monks, Buddhist, 161, 183 _et seq._ - - Morley, Viscount, 293 - - Morrison, Dr., 214 - - Morton, Captain B., 245 - - Moulmein, 10 - - Myanaung, 95 _et seq._ - - Myaung-m[)y]a, 40, 73 - - Myede, 74 _et seq._ - - Myelat, 225, 231, 233 - - Myingun, Prince, 96, 125, 148 - - Myingyan, 106, 114, 123, 129, 184, 259, 303 - - Myitkyina, 10, 242, 249, 250, 305, 306 - - Myotha, 132-133 - - Myothugyis, 153 - - - Namkham, 177, 298 - - Ngapi, 38, 62 - - Ngathaing-gyaung, 261, 264 - - Nicholson, Lord, 138 - - Ningyan, 156 - - 'Nmaikha, 248-249 - - Norie, Colonel E. W. M., 272 - - Norman, Brigadier-General, 105 - - 'Nsentaru, 249 - - Nuns, Buddhist, 192 - - Nyaung-ok Mintha, 30, 148 - - Nyaung-yan Mintha, 30, 31, 148 - - Nyaungywe, 231 _et seq._ - - - O, Maung Shwe, 39 - - O, Min, 163 - - O'Donnell, Brigadier-General H., 213 - - Oil-fields, 303-304 - - Oktama, 161 - - On Saw, 233 - - Opium, 55 - - - Pacification of Burma, the, 161, 202 _n._, 213 _n._, 219, 333 _n._ - - Pagan, 106, 123, 141, 287, 302, 303 - - Pagan Min, 27, 147 - - Pagan Min, widow of, 147 - - Pagoda, Shwe Dagon, 11, 194, 197, 200 - - Pakan Sadaw, 189 - - Pakangyi Supaya, 149, 174 - - Pakokku, 114, 300 - - Palace at Mandalay, 117 _et seq._, 284 - - Pantanaw, 36 _et seq._, 260 - - Parents, respect for, 162 - - Patriarchal justice, 124 - - Pe, Maung, 25 - - Pegu, 258, 297 - - Pegu Division, 235 - - Peile, Colonel S. C. F., 296 - - Pennell, Mr. C. S., 306 - - Phayre, Sir A., 9, 28, 86, 92, 154, 204, 260 _n._ - - Phayre, Mr. R., 106, 123, 162 - - Pilcher, Mr. R. H., 7, 86, 87, 134, 135, 162, 176 - - Pinlebu, 218, 252 - - Pintha Mintha, 125, 126, 148 - - Po, Maung, 82 - - Police, 5, 78, 158, 296 - military, 159 - - Ponkan, 170, 252 - - Ponnas, 146, 163 - - Prendergast, Sir H. N. D., 105, 106, 115, 118, 122, 143 - - Pretyman, Sir G., 88 - - Primrose, Sir H., 88 - - Prome, 10, 114, 189 - - Prothero, General M., 159 - - Provincial Settlement, 289, 291 - - Pwe, 45, 278 - - Pyi, Maung, 140 - - Pyin, Bo, 216 - - Pyinmana, 156, 259 - - Pyinmana Mintha, 125, 148 - - Pyintha, 177, 254 - - Pyinulwin, 177, 178 - - Pyo, Maung Tet, 81 - - Pyuntaza, 222 - - - Queen Sinbyumashin, 29 - - Queen Supayalat, 29, 103, 107, 108, 109, 110, 115 - - - Rae, Mr. D. W., 272 - - Raikes, Colonel F. D., 221 - - Railway, Mandalay-Toungoo, 167, 224 - Mu Valley, 239 - Southern Shan States, 230 - - Railways, 10 - - Rainey-Robinson, Colonel R. M., 129, 133 - - Rangoon, 11 _et seq._ and _passim_ - past and present, 18-23 - - Ratnagiri, 109 - - Rawlings, Mr. A. E., 100 - - Rebellions, 270 - - Redman, Captain, 113 - - Regan, Mr., 54, 144 - - Ribbentrop, Mr. B., 6 - - Rice, Mr. W. F., 306 - - Richard, Mr. H. J., 202 - - Ripon, Marquis of, 52, 88, 93 - - Roberts, Earl, 87, 88, 138, 139, 159, 169, 173 - - Ronak Begam, 209, 210 - - Ross, Mr. D., 221 - - Ruby Mines, 203 _et seq._, 252 - - Rundall, Colonel F. M., 221 - - - Sadon, 246, 248 - - Sagadaung, 203 - - Sagaing, 67, 106, 130, 135, 239 - - Saing, Kun, 170 _et seq._ - - St. Barbe, Mr. H. L., 141 - - Salween, 227, 232 - - Sandford, Mr. J. D., 5 - - Sandoway, 221, 299 - - Sayedawgyi, 145 - - Scott, Sir J. G., 59, 158, 165, 176, 179, 226, 227, 267, 268, 277 - - Scott, Mr. W., 305 - - Scott-Moncrieff, Sir C., 52 - - Se, Hein, 179 - - Shah Zamani Begam, 209 - - Shan States, 170, 225 _et seq._, 275, 278 - - Shans at home, the, 230 _n._ - - Shaw, Sir G. W., 240 - - Shaw, Mr. R. B., 30 - - Shearme, Mr. D., 306 - - Shiko, 186 _n._ - - Short, Mr. J., 14 - - Shwe Dagon Pagoda, 11, 194, 197, 200 - - Shwebo, 2, 123, 216, 217, 240 - - Shwegu, 215 - - Shwehlan Myowun, 123, 165, 266 - - Shwelaung, 39 - - Si, Myowun U Pe, 123, 124, 143, 152 - - Silver-work, 65 - - Sima, 241, 245, 271 - - Sinbaungwe, 77, 81 - - Sinbaungwe, Wun of, 79 - - Sinbo, 244, 251 - - Sinbyumashin, Queen, 29 - - Sinaing, 177 - - Sinlumgaba, 272, 276 - - Sittang River, 10 - - Sladen, Sir E. B., 106, 122, 123, 125, 128, 134, 143, 276, 304 - - Smeaton, Mr. D. M., 207, 208, 256 - - Snadden, Mr. W. G., 267 - - Snakes, 48, 301 - - Stedman, Sir E., 176, 178, 219, 226 - - Stedman, Fort, 231, 232, 234 - - Stevenson, Mr. R. C., 106, 203 - - Stirling, Mr. G. C. B., 299 - - Stone, Major W. R., 260 - - Street, Colonel C. W., 7, 92 - - Su, Chit, 232 - - Summers, Mr. E. W. B., 237 - - Supayalat, Queen, 29, 103, 107, 108, 109, 110, 115 - - Superstitions, 97 - - Swe, Bo, 161 - - Symes, Sir E. S., 51, 90, 92, 95, 114, 137, 207, 234, 235, 254 - - Symons, Sir W. P., 105, 221 - - Syriam, 304 - - - Tabet Myosa, 179 - - Taingda Mingyi, 29, 86, 103, 134 - - Tari, 56 - - Taungbaing, 176 - - Taung-gwin Mingyi, 162 - - Taung-gyi, 232 - - Taungya cultivation, 76 - - Tavoy, 221, 299 - - Tenancy Legislation, 296 - - T'Engyueeh, 214, 244 - - Tha, Maung Shwe, 295 - - Thabeik-kyin, 206 - - Tharrawaddy, 222 - - Thathanabaing, the, 187, 189-191 - - Thaungthut, 301 - - Thayazein Mipaya, 150 - - Thayetmyo, 74 _et seq._ - - Thazi, 231 - - Thebaw Min, 29, 107, 108, 109, 118, 125, 126, 169 - - Theinni, 176, 225 - - Thetpau Mipaya, 150 - - Thibaw, Sawbwa of (1), 171 _et seq._ - - Thibaw, Sawbwa of (2), 175, 299 - - Thibaw, State of, 171, 299 - - Thompson, Sir A. R., 7 - - Thomson, Mr. A., 144, 147 - - Thonze, 173, 176, 178, 180 - - Ti, Bo, 212 - - Tibet, 242, 245, 275 - - Tiger stories, 15, 301, 302 - - Tin, Maung, 145 - - Titcomb, Dr. J. H., 34 - - To, Bo, 224 - - Todd-Naylor, Mr. H. P., 158, 222 - - Tok, Maung, 30, 126 - - Tonbo, 176, 254 - - Toungoo, 10, 88, 167, 224 - - Tuck, Mr. H. N., 221 - - Tucker, Mr. A. H., 258 - - Tucker, Mr. H. St. G., 156 - - Tun, Maung, 216 - - Twomey, Mr. D. H. R., 218, 221 - - - U, Hla, 161 - - - Vaccination, 216 - - Victoria Point, 300 - - Village Law, 219 - - - Wakema, 40 - - Wales, T.R.H. the Prince and Princess of, 181, 233, 287 - - Wales, H.R.H. Prince Albert Victor of, 224 - - Wallace, Sir D. M., 138 - - Warry, Mr. W., 272 - - White, Sir G. S., 105, 143, 159, 170, 182 - - Wilkinson, Mr. C. J., 5 - - Women, Burmese, 68 _et seq._ - - Wood carving, 65 - - Wuntho, 211, 217, 221, 239, 252 - - Yamethin, 259 - - Yan, Shwe, 161 - - Yanaung Mintha, 30, 126 - - Yatsauk, 179 - - Yenangyaung, 304 - - Yenangyaung Mingyi (1), 126 - - Yenangyaung Mingyi (2), 124, 125, 126 - - Yunnan, 210, 214, 274 - - Yunnan-fu, 224 - - - Zan, Maung Aung, 25, 252, 294 - - Zibingale, 176-177 - - Zibingyi, 254 - - Zinath Mahal, Begam, 208-209 - - Zinaw, 248 - - - BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD. - - - - - Transcriber's notes: - - The following is a list of changes made to the original. - The first line is the original line, the second the corrected one. - - illustrious of pure Bhuddist shrines, dominating the - illustrious of pure Buddhist shrines, dominating the - - I spent in the office eleven years a period surpassed only, - I spent in the office eleven years, a period surpassed only, - - Two days earlier the King of Burmah issued a proclamation - Two days earlier the King of Burma issued a proclamation - - into Divisions, and Commissioners were appointed, In June, - into Divisions, and Commissioners were appointed. In June, - - he was noosed and tied up in the Keddah, and the - he was noosed and tied up in the Kheddah, and the - - At Sadagaung it was found that all the servants, - At Sagadaung it was found that all the servants, - - Their son and daughter, Mirza Jamshid Bakht and Ronak Begam, - Their son and daughter, Mirza Jamshid Bakht and Ronak Begam, - - In the morning the valleys were covered with a vale of mist; - In the morning the valleys were covered with a veil of mist; - - Some of these officers are Arakenese, one a Talaing; - Some of these officers are Arakanese, one a Talaing; - - the very able and distinguished Deputy Commmissioner of Myitkyina, - the very able and distinguished Deputy Commissioner of Myitkyina, - - _myo-ok-gavaw_ = Myo-ok's wife. - _m[)y]o-ok-gavaw_ = M[)y]o-ok's wife. - - _myo-thu-gyi_ = head of a _myo_ or circle. - _m[)y]o-thu-gyi_ = head of a _m[)y]o_ or circle. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Civil Servant in Burma, by Herbert Thirkel White - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CIVIL SERVANT IN BURMA *** - -***** This file should be named 43075.txt or 43075.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/0/7/43075/ - -Produced by Jane Robins, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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