diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | 42958-0.txt (renamed from 42958.txt) | 397 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 42958-8.txt | 1855 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 42958-8.zip | bin | 42516 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 42958-h.zip | bin | 2415840 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 42958-h/42958-h.htm | 429 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 42958.zip | bin | 42500 -> 0 bytes |
6 files changed, 7 insertions, 2674 deletions
@@ -1,38 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Ulster - -Author: Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -Release Date: June 16, 2013 [EBook #42958] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ULSTER *** - - - - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42958 *** [Illustration: MUCKROSS BAY, KILLYBEGS, DONEGAL] @@ -715,7 +681,7 @@ with the last of Lord Bristol's successors under the old order--the late Bishop Alexander, most eloquent of divines, afterwards Primate of Ireland. His talents brought him to the episcopate, while still a young man, only a year or two before disestablishment, and the -life-interest in his L12,000 a year came to be compounded, not only +life-interest in his £12,000 a year came to be compounded, not only for his own benefit, but for that of the Church. While the financial negotiation was still in progress, my father, then rector of a parish in Donegal, and financier-in-chief to the diocese, sent his bishop out @@ -1495,361 +1461,4 @@ Page 34: Replaced the oe ligature with oe in the two instances of End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ULSTER *** - -***** This file should be named 42958.txt or 42958.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/9/5/42958/ - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at - www.gutenberg.org/license. - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 -North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email -contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the -Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42958 *** diff --git a/42958-8.txt b/42958-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bc4c196..0000000 --- a/42958-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1855 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Ulster - -Author: Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -Release Date: June 16, 2013 [EBook #42958] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ULSTER *** - - - - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - -[Illustration: MUCKROSS BAY, KILLYBEGS, DONEGAL] - - - - -ULSTER - -Described by Stephen Gwynn -Pictured by Alexander Williams - -[Illustration] - - -BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED -LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY -1911 - - - - -Beautiful Ireland - - LEINSTER - ULSTER - MUNSTER - CONNAUGHT - - -_Uniform with this Series_ - -Beautiful England - - OXFORD - THE ENGLISH LAKES - CANTERBURY - SHAKESPEARE-LAND - THE THAMES - WINDSOR CASTLE - CAMBRIDGE - NORWICH AND THE BROADS - THE HEART OF WESSEX - THE PEAK DISTRICT - THE CORNISH RIVIERA - DICKENS-LAND - WINCHESTER - THE ISLE OF WIGHT - CHESTER AND THE DEE - YORK - - - - -TABLE OF CONTENTS - - - Page - -AT THE GAP OF THE NORTH 5 - -"THE BLACK NORTH" 13 - -THE MAIDEN CITY 28 - -TIRCONNELL 37 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Page - -Muckross Bay, Killybegs, Donegal _Frontispiece_ - -Narrow Water Castle, Carlingford Lough 8 - -Cave Hill, Belfast 14 - -Carrickfergus Castle, Belfast Lough 20 - -The Giants' Causeway 26 - -Fair Head, Co. Antrim 32 - -Londonderry from the Waterside 36 - -Tory Island from Falcarragh Hill, Donegal 42 - -Muckish and Ards from Rosapenna, Sheephaven, Donegal 46 - -Mount Errigal from the Gweedore River, Donegal 50 - -Glenveagh, Donegal 54 - -The Entrance to Mulroy Bay, Donegal 58 - - - - -[Illustration: ULSTER] - -AT THE GAP OF THE NORTH - - -Ulster is a province much talked of and little understood--a name -about which controversy rages. But to those who know it and who love -it, one thing is clear--Ulster is no less Ireland than Connaught -itself. No better song has been written in our days than that which -tells of an Irishman's longing in London to be back "where the -mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea"; nor indeed is the whole -frame of mind which that song dramatises, with so pleasant a blending -of humour and pathos, better expressed in any single way than in the -phrase "thinking long"--an idiom common to all Ulster talk, whether -in Down or Donegal. And when I who write these lines "think long" -for Ireland, it is to Ulster that my thought goes back, back to the -homely ways and the quaint speech of northern folk, hard yet kindly, -with the genial welcome readier even in their rough accent than in -smoothest Munster: for these things there rises in my mind the vague -aching, half-remembrance, half-desire, which we call "thinking long". -It is a far cry from Belfast, with its clang of riveters, to the vast -loneliness of Slieve League or Dunlewy; and yet the great captain -of industry, nurtured and proven in the keenest commerce, has upon -his tongue, in his features, in the whole cast of his nature, these -very traits which endear themselves to me in some Irish-speaking -schoolmaster of western Donegal. Soil, climate, and common -memories--these are what identify and what bind. No man gets his -living too easily in Ulster, and need makes neighbourly. Protestant -and Catholic have to fight the same battle with hard weather--of which -perhaps even the summer traveller may form some judgment; they are -rewarded by the same loveliness which makes a fine day in Ulster the -most enchanting upon earth; and they fend against the stress of storm -by the same warm shelter, the same glow of the turf-piled hearth. - -The Ulster of which I shall write in these few pages is the Ulster of -four sea-bordering counties only, Donegal, Derry, Antrim, and Down, -since beyond doubt these exceed the other five in attractions. Only -let a word be said of two great lakes. Lough Erne, which belongs -mainly to Fermanagh, though bordering Donegal in part, is to its -champions the Cinderella of Irish waters, and some day it will come -into its inheritance of fame. Lough Neagh, with its eighty miles of -shore, divided among five counties, has never been seen by me but in -tranquil loveliness, one vast sheet of shimmering blue; and whether at -Antrim, where many memories have their monuments, or at Toomebridge, -where the Bann flows out majestically, has seemed well worth a day's -journey--the more because its beauty is set among lands not fertile, -yet prosperously tilled and inhabited by people, not rich indeed, yet -safely removed from the stress of poverty. Not far from it is Armagh, -a cathedral city, richer in associations than any in Ireland. If I do -not write of Armagh, it is because the oldest of these associations -has its monument also at the southern gate of Ulster, where the -division of the province is best marked. - -Carlingford Lough, according to modern geography, marks that division, -but in truth the lough's southern shore, the rocky promontory of -Cooley, belongs to Ulster by all titles, though it be included in -the modern county of Louth. A steamer will carry you from Holyhead -to Greenore (where is a hotel with the inevitable golf links) and -land you nominally in Leinster. But all that mountainous headland is -inhabited by folk who still keep the Gaelic speech alive among them, -and whose remote forbears owned in far distant times the overlordship -of Ireland's most famous champion, when Ulster had a pagan chivalry, -the Red Branch Circle, which is to Irish legend what the story -of Arthur's knighthood is to British romance, or the tale of the -Nibelungs to Germany. Cooley (in Irish, _Cuailgne_) was the fief of -Cuchulain; and the Brown Bull of Cooley was the object of that great -foray made by the rest of Ireland upon Ulster, which is related in the -oldest and finest of all Celtic hero tales. - -Cuchulain's dwelling was outside Cooley, outside Ulster proper; his -stronghold was Dundealgan, the "Thorn Fort" which gives its name to -Dundalk. It was an outpost guarding that pass in the hills, the gap of -the north, through which the railway, leaving the plains of Leinster, -winds into the mountainous and threatening regions of Armagh and Down. - -[Illustration: NARROW WATER CASTLE, CARLINGFORD LOUGH] - -All the story of Cuchulain's hero-feats can be read in Lady Gregory's -admirable version, _Cuchulain of Muirthemne_; but Cuchulain's fort you -can see for yourself. It stands close to the town of Dundalk, visible -from the railway, a flat-topped mount, surrounded by a trench some -thirty feet deep, with a steep outer rampart surrounding this in its -turn. The whole is now tree-covered. Mr. Tempest, an antiquary of -Dundalk, whose exertions have saved this monument from the spade and -plough, thinks that he has identified, a couple of miles south of -Dundalk, the place where Cuchulain died. Cloghafarmore, the "Big Man's -Stone", at Ratheddy is one of the "standing stones" found through -Ireland, as through other Celtic countries, and tradition identifies -it with the pillar to which Cuchulain made his way from his last -fight. For ninety days, he and his charioteer Laeg, and his pair of -horses, Black Sanglain and the Grey of Macha, had harassed and held -back the host of Ireland, destroying champion after champion, singly -or by groups, in fights at each ford, and raining missiles upon the -main body with marvellous sling-throwing; but at last, encompassed and -at bay, he had got his death-wound with his own charmed spear, which -passed through the bodies of nine men in its last flight from his -hand. When, flung back at him by Lugaidh, last survivor of the sons -whose father Cuchulain had slain, it had ripped his body open, the -wounded warrior, holding his bowels together with one hand, staggered -to this pillar stone, and bound himself to it by his scarf, so that -even in death and defeat he might still stand upright. So he stood -propped, while the Grey of Macha, loosed from its harness, defended -him with teeth and hoof, letting none approach, till men saw that on -the hero's shoulder a raven had lighted. "It is not on that pillar -birds were used to settle", said one of his foemen. Then the grey -horse knew that life had ebbed away, and she left the body to its -despoilers. But the man who struck off Cuchulain's head, and took it -with him, had his own head struck off by a comrade of the Red Branch -before he reached the plains of Liffey. - -Such is the fierce temper of that old hero-cycle; but if its heroes -are not to be outdone in fierceness neither are they in generosity. -How much is legend, sheer invention, none can say: the great -earthworks at Armagh, Cuchulain's fort at Dundealgan, and a hundred -other things testify to a truth behind the tale. And it is fairly -well established that the race which had its centre at Armagh was -not the race which governed from Tara: the Red Branch was Pictish, -Tara was Milesian. How distinct the racial types show where they have -survived tolerably pure is hardly realized, save by some such chance -as befell me, when, at an exhibition in Limerick, I was summoned to -look at a strange foreign folk from the north. They were girls from -an Irish-speaking district in Donegal--not far from Rosapenna--pretty -girls, too, but among the big, buxom, oval-faced, soft-bodied -Southerners their short profiles, their high cheek bones, and hard, -bright colour showed as strange as if they had been from another -quarter of the world. - -All the subsequent stages in Irish history meet you about the shores -of Carlingford--Carline-fiord; its name tells of Danish settlements. -The old castle in Carlingford town was erected by de Courcy at King -John's bidding; the monastery was Norman built too, by Richard de -Burgo, Earl of Ulster, but the Norman rule in Ulster was closely -limited to a few strongholds on the coast. The Narrow Water Castle, -which Mr. Williams has drawn against its background of the steep -richly wooded slopes which make the chief beauty of this beautiful -lough, is on the site of a thirteenth-century fortress, but that was -destroyed in the Great War of 1641, and this building dates from -Charles II's reign. At Warrenpoint a tall obelisk records the name of -Ross of Bladensburg, one of the many brilliant officers whom Ireland -gave to Wellington's armies--with how many thousands of the unnamed -peasants to fill the ranks that they led! All those wooded hills -behind Rostrevor, the little watering-place that nestles snug among -them, looking south to the sun and the hills of Cooley, speak of -comfortable days and territorial dominion. Behind those same wooded -hills lies the southernmost point of industrial Ulster, Newry town, -with its whirring looms. - -These are some of the stepping-stones to guide one through Irish -history; yet how many more might be added! Where the road and rail -strike north from Dundalk, as they rise to that pass which is the -famous Gap, you reach Faughart, scene of the battle where Edward Bruce -ended his disastrous adventure of conquest in Ireland. And on the -plain below, William and Schomberg had their camp and mustered their -army before it set out to march upon the Boyne. - -Memories of war--Pict and Connachtman contending for Cuchulain's head; -the Dane plundering and trading; the Norman building his strongholds; -the Scot heading Ireland's endeavour to shake off the Norman yoke; -that other convulsion in 1641, and then new castles built; the -Dutchman landing, and his triumphant march; and from the subdued -Ireland, thousands, tens of thousands, of soldiers, gentle and simple, -issuing forth to uphold the English name. Yes, but other memories are -there too. Some maintain that here Patrick landed on his mission. But -at all events at Faughart, in the fifth century, Brigid was born, the -"Mary of the Gael", "mother of all the saints of Ireland". Her work -was done in Leinster, but surely her birthplace here on the threshold -of Ulster should not be overlooked. - - - - -"THE BLACK NORTH" - - -I shall assume that from Dundalk and its neighbouring beauty, that -narrow lough winding among the hills, you go straight to Belfast, -with the glorious range of Mourne Mountains on your right hand to -make the journey attractive. At "Portadown upon the Bann", where the -Pope has a bad name, you are not far from the focus of the industrial -north--at all events of the great linen industry. From the train you -will see fields white as snow with bleaching webs; and it is said -that one cause of this trade's localization is a special suitability -of climate, like that which makes Lancashire head of the world for -cotton-spinning. Belgium can beat Ireland in producing flax--can get -50 per cent more for the same weight of finished fibre--but in the -spinning and weaving Ulster is unapproachable. Unhappily, as in all -textile trades, the individual withers and the machine grows more -and more: hand-loom damask weavers, who can still make a product -marvellous for craftsmanship, find their occupation gone--the machine -runs them too close. - -What the linen trade has been worth to Ulster can never be counted. -It was the one industry which England's jealousy spared, and even -(after long refusal) grudgingly fostered, in those very decades when -her manufacturers were urging Parliament to stamp out and destroy the -woollen trade. Its existence preserved in this corner of the country -that industrial habit which means not only an inherited skill but the -transmitted aptitude for factory work, with its regular hours and -mechanical routine, so unlike the conditions of labour on the land, in -which all the rest of Ireland has found--since 1800--its only resource. - -Even agriculture has been helped by the proximity of towns where -all, down to the labouring classes, have money to buy with. The -district which centres about Portadown is to-day foremost of all -Ireland for the culture of fruit and flowers, though neither climate -nor soil specially favours it. One beauty that Ulster has far more -generally than any other province is the flower-bordered cottage. They -grow orange lilies in fine profusion, but they grow other and less -emblematic blossoms as well. - -[Illustration: CAVE HILL, BELFAST] - -Belfast--when you reach it--is not calculated to charm the eye. It has -the features of any English manufacturing town so far as its buildings -are concerned, and the finest structures it can show (without -disparaging its handsome Town Hall) are the vast fabrics which rise -in the dockyards, such ships as have never been built in the world -before--marvels of symmetry and strength. To see them in the building -up is to watch, perhaps, the most impressive exhibition of human -skill and energy. Ireland, for all its defective development, can -boast of heading the world in certain enterprises: Guinness's brewery, -Harland and Wolff's engineering works, and Barbour's great net and -rope factory at Lisburn are, each in its kind, the biggest and best in -Europe, or out of it. - -Once you get down to the water in Belfast, beauty is abundant, and -for my part I like best the view from the docks. But Mr. Williams has -chosen a distant indication of the town under the bold headland, at -whose foot it lies so well. This aspect of Cave Hill does not show -its strange feature--the vast Napoleonic profile flung up against -an eastern sky. Time was when Belfast must have been curiously -divided about that portent; for in the Revolution period northern -Ireland was fiercely republican. It was on Cave Hill that Wolfe Tone, -most formidable of all Irish rebels, with a group of young Ulster -democrats, founded the Society of United Irishmen. - -Belfast does not dwell much on these memories to-day, nor indeed on -any memories; her interest is in the prosperous present, the growing -future. And although it has its absurdities, notably in the claim to -be more populous than Dublin (a result achieved by omitting Rathmines -and Pembroke, townships separately governed, but as much part of -Dublin as Kensington and Chelsea are of London), the strong pride -of Belfast is amply justified. It is not its proximity to Scotch -coalfields nor its moist climate (dear to spinners) which really makes -its fortune, it is the hard-bitten, restless, courageous spirit of its -people. - -Like Dublin, it has close access to places of great natural -charm. Just beyond Cave Hill, on the north shore of the lough, is -Carrickfergus Castle, whose grim strength Mr. Williams has excellently -suggested. It was built within six years of the Norman invasion, by -de Courcy, first grantee of Ulster; and here, as at Carlingford, the -invaders managed to retain their grip. The Bruces wrested it, after a -fierce siege, from de Lacy, who then held it, Robert Bruce aiding his -brother; but on Edward Brace's defeat it fell back to the English. In -the ultimate conquest of Ireland it marked a great moment, for here -William of Orange landed, and pious care has recorded the flagstone on -which he first set his foot. - -At Carrickfergus you are already well advanced on the prettiest road -in all Ireland--that which skirts the northern shore of Belfast -Lough, then, crossing the neck of Island Magee peninsula, carries -you past Larne's inland water, and from Larne follows the cliffy -shoreline up to where Fair Head marks the northern limit of Antrim's -eastward-looking coast. Then, cutting in behind the Head, it emerges -on the pleasant town of Ballycastle, sheltered in its bay, and so -follows the coast again past the castles of Dunseverick and Dunluce, -famous ruins, and past the Giant's Causeway, that still more famous -piece of an older and more majestic architecture. Portrush ends -your journey if you be a golfer; but dearer to me than the links at -Portrush are the sandhills beyond Portstewart and the long strand at -the entrance to Lough Foyle--ten miles of a stretch, but the Bann's -outflow divides it. No other beach that I have known is rich in such -a variety of shells; on no other sandhills do the little delicate -sandflowers, ladies'-slipper, thyme, ladies'-bedstraw, and the rest, -grow so charmingly. - -Now, in all that long coastline what to write about? First, perhaps, -its geography. A line of high hills, or low mountains, runs north from -Belfast, and beyond Larne they approach close to the sea. Westward -of them is prosperous industrial country, draining into Lough Neagh -or the Bann--a country of thriving towns, Ballymena and Ballymoney, -with many factories. But east of this is the marginal land, running -steeply down with short watercourses to the sea, and this is the -country of the Glens of Antrim; lordship of the MacDonnells, who were -also Lords of the Isles. The sea here--_Sruth na Maoile_, the Stream -of the Moyle, is a link rather than a barrier; you could row across -with no great danger in a skin-covered boat; and at this point the -Gael of Alba and the Gael of Eire have been always one race. The -Irish that I heard spoken by old men whom a Feis of the Glens had -gathered together in Glen Ariff was few removes in sound and even in -idiom from the Highland speech; and all tradition, whether Ossianic, -in the stories of Finn and his companions, or that older cycle of the -Red Branch, brings the Scotch islands and west coast into full touch -with Irish legend. It was to the Isle of Skye that Cuchulain went for -his training, to be taught by a woman warrior--whose name that island -keeps as the Coolin Hills preserve his name; it was from the Scottish -shore that Cuchulain's son by the daughter of this warrior-queen came -over to contend with the Red Branch heroes, refusing his name in -order--so the deserted witch designed it--that his father, the one man -able to master him, might unknowingly slay his own son. I took down -from the lips of an Ulster peasant, not able to read or write, and -perhaps with ten generations behind him of folk who never used the -pen, the carefully guarded text of a poem framed not later (from its -language) than the fifteenth century, which told the tragedy of that -slaying. There is a touch in that ballad fine as any I know, when the -dying lad says to his vanquisher: - - "Cuchulain, beloved father, - How is it you did not know me - When I flung my spear so sluggishly - Against your bristling blade?" - -That was the only sign he could give. Knowing himself, knowing his -antagonist, yet sworn not to reveal the secret, he could only make -a cast so half-hearted that surely Cuchulain might pause to wonder -whether it was indeed an enemy who threw the spear. - -These legends linking the coasts together suggest the charm of that -eastern shore; not the magic of infinite distance, not the Atlantic's -illimitable blue, but a continual tempting of the eye with that -shore beyond the sea, sometimes not visible at all, often faint, an -exquisite mirage, yet sometimes so vivid and distinct that you can -discern even the whitewashed cabins on the farther side. - -The mountains of the glens have no marvel of beauty. Slemish, lying -back from the rest, is best marked, with its flat top, which is -indeed evidently the crater of some volcano, forced up in the wild -convulsion that has left its other traces in the basalt of Fair Head -and the Causeway. Marked, too, it is in history; for on its slopes -Patrick in captivity herded his master Dichu's swine. Yet this was on -the landward of the hills, in the valley of the Braid, which drains -west into Lough Neagh, and stands outside the grouping of the glens. -Tibullia, another peak easily discerned, is distinguished by having -on its summit a formation of flints where man of the Stone Age had a -regular factory; chipped and flaked implements, marred in the making, -can be found there (by the knowing) in basketfuls. - -But the true distinction of these hills is that they have found their -poet. Samuel Ferguson first in his ballad of "Willy Gilliland" (which -has its climax by the walls of Carrickfergus) celebrated the stretch -of green "from Slemish foot to Collon top". But it is a later singer, -the poetess, "Moira O'Neill", who in her _Songs of the Glens of -Antrim_, has made all their names resound: from "Slemish and Trostan, -dark with heather", to "ould Lurgethan" where it "rises green by the -sea". And not the hills only but the glens--Glenann, for which the -emigrant "does be thinking long"; "lone Glen Dun and the wild glen -flowers", with the little town at the outflow of its river, Cushendun, -_Cois-an-duin_, Dun-foot. Her volume should be in the hands of every -traveller in the glens, unless its verses are already written in his -memory. - -[Illustration: CARRICKFERGUS CASTLE, BELFAST LOUGH] - -This Antrim coast has one charm distinguishing it above the rest of -Ireland--its variety of geological formation. At the foot of Glen -Ariff, Red Bay is called after the sandstone cliffs past which the -road is cut, and in one place the rock makes an arch near an old -castle. There is a cave, too, at various times inhabited. At Fair -Head one reaches the basalt, and this huge promontory faces the sea -with cliffs whose columnar formation gives that odd suggestion of -human workmanship which reaches its climax at the Causeway. This black -basalt with the numberless fissures is a good rock for birds to build -in, but a very bad and treacherous dependence for those who climb to -pry after their nests. Beyond the Causeway comes a line of white chalk -cliff, such as is familiar to all in the south of England, but very -strange to us in Ireland; though the sea off the Antrim coast is too -deep to have that opaline appearance--as though milk were spilt into -it--which the Margate tripper knows. - -I have never yet been able to bring myself to write about the -Causeway, which is a geological freak very curious to look at, and -quite worth the sixpence you have to pay for admission, since a -company enclosed it some years ago. But in Ireland we expect to have -our cliff scenery free. The guides there will tell visitors plenty of -comic stories about Finn MacCool. But Finn, in authentic Irish legend, -is not a comic figure: he is the centre of the Ossianic tales. - -That country north of the glens--which stop at Ballycastle, where -Glen Shesk and Glen Tow have their meeting--is called the Route, and -so keeps alive a memory of a period older than the Ossianic legends. -Dal Riada, or Dal Reuda, that is, the "Portion of Reuda", was the -name given to a principality established by one Reuda, who about the -second century broke off with a body of followers from the kingdom of -Ulster, and established rule on both sides of the narrow seas. Reuda -was of the Pictish race, probably; and here in the north the Picts -held out longest against the invading Milesians, who came (according -to modern theories) drilled foot soldiers, to defeat the earlier -chariot-fighting warriors. But the Milesians pushed their conquest -here also in about the sixth century, and Fergus, an offshoot of the -northern Hy-Neill (Sons of Niall), the dominant Milesian house, made -a petty kingdom for himself on both shores; and from him the kings of -Scotland traced their descent. This prince, Fergus Mac Erc, has left -his name on the Irish coast, for Carrickfergus is shown as the rock -on which he came to wreck, when sent adrift by tempest in one of his -crossings between the two portions of his kingdom. - -Shortly after its establishment, this kingship, or chieftainship, -lost its Irish character and centred in Scotland. But relations were -constant--though by no means constantly friendly--and the Lords of the -Isles held Rathlin Island for many centuries. However near the Irish -coast this island lies--only divided by some five miles from the base -of Fair Head--the sound between it and the mainland is so dangerous, -with its racing tides, as to be an effectual barrier; and very often -passage may be easier made from the Scotch coast than from the bay of -Ballycastle. At all events, the Mac Donnells owned Rathlin when Robert -Bruce needed a refuge, and the castle is still there in which the -Bruce sheltered for seven years--and in which it was that he watched -the spider's patience and drew the moral for his own far-off designs. - -The Mac Donnells were one of three great clans who divided a disputed -lordship in Ulster before Ulster (last of the provinces) was finally -subdued. The Mac Donnell lordship was the least authoritative and -(although it traced descent to the sixth century) the latest in date. -O'Neill and O'Donnell, the true Gaelic overlords of Ulster, sprang -from two sons of Niall of the Nine Hostages, High King of Ireland -from 379 to 405. Of their sons, Conall settled himself on Donegal -Bay, and Eoghan (or Owen) on the Inishowen hills. Tyrconnell--_Tir -Chonaill_--takes its name from the one son; Tyrone--_Tir -Eoghain_--from the other. About these centres power grouped itself, -each chief having sub-chiefs or _urraghts_ under him, each with his -own sept. It was only in the tenth century when Brian Boru was High -King that the hereditary surnames came to be adopted--O'Neill for the -lord of Tyrone, O'Donnell for the princes of Tyrconnell. - -Their country was remote of access, difficult of passage for troops; -their people were hardy; and so it happened that in the reign of Henry -VIII, and even of Elizabeth, when all else in Ireland had been fairly -brought within British sovereignty (even the O'Briens of Thomond -submitting) O'Neill and O'Donnell could still hold their own. But -mutual jealousies and border feuds weakened the Gael; the O'Neills -were the strongest people, yet the O'Donnells on one flank and the -Mac Donnells on the other often sought advantage by English alliance. -Shane O'Neill, perhaps the most dangerous foe that Elizabeth had to -meet in Ireland, of whom Sir Henry Sidney wrote that "this man could -burn, if he liked, up to the gates of Dublin, and go away unfought", -met his crushing defeat at the hand of Irish enemies, the O'Donnells, -who routed him on the Swilly river near Letterkenny; and in his -trouble he fled to unfriends on the other side, the Mac Donnells, in -whose camp at Cushendun he was poniarded, and his head sold to the -English. - -Yet after his day another O'Neill, Hugh the great Earl of Tyrone, -levied desperate war on the English, in close league with a successor -of the O'Donnell who defeated Shane; and though the Mac Donnells gave -them no direct assistance, they also made an effort at that time to -throw off the invader's yoke. The history of Ireland under Elizabeth -is largely the history of war with these three clans--and a shameful -history it is, full of horrible records of treachery and cruelty. - -Each of the three peoples threw up remarkable leaders in the -final struggles under the Tudors, and no figure of those days is -more notable than the MacDonnell chief, Somhairle Buidhe, "Yellow -Charles", Sorley Boy, as the English wrote him: and often the State -Papers had occasion to write his name between 1558, when he came to -lordship of the North, and 1590, when he died (singularly enough) -a natural death in his own castle of Duneynie and was buried among -all the Mac Donnells in the Abbey at Bonamargy near Ballycastle. Two -sayings of his are memorable. They showed him the head of his son -impaled above the gate of Dublin Castle. "My son," he retorted, "has -many heads." And in truth that stock sprung up like nettles after -cutting.--Elizabeth, in one of the phases of her diplomacy, sought to -enlist this warrior on her side, and sent him a patent for his estates -and chieftaincy as Lord of the Pale, engrossed on parchment. They -brought him the writing to his castle of Dunluce, and he hacked the -scroll to shreds. "With the sword I won it," he said; "I will never -keep it with the sheepskin." - -Nevertheless, time brought him counsel, and when Sir John Perrot, -Henry VIII's bastard, came and battered Dunluce with cannon, Sorley, -now eighty years of age, made his submission and travelled to Dublin, -to pay his homage to the Queen's picture, going on his knees to kiss -the embroidered pantoufle on the royal foot. After his death, his son -Randal joined the rising of Hugh O'Neill and Hugh O'Donnell; but when -that last great effort to throw off England's power was foiled by the -defeat at Kinsale, the Mac Donnell made submission, and Elizabeth's -successor, James, who after all had a natural kindness for the Mac -Donnells (seeing that they were to the last Scotch rather than Irish) -accepted his submission and endowed him with the whole territory from -the Cutts of Coleraine to the Curran of Larne. - -Dunluce, which stands on a projecting rock, approached only by a -narrow footway over a very deep natural trench, has to stand a battery -more continuous than Perrot's cannon could bring to bear. The sea is -under it, for a cave pierces the rock, and wind and wave are for ever -straining at the old fortress. Part of it fell in 1639, and to-day -they say the whole ruin is menaced with collapse; and, since it stands -in private grounds, no public authority can intervene to save it. - -[Illustration: THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY] - -For some heads the crossing of that wall into Dunluce has a danger; -and a fall would be serious. But the real test of resistance to -giddiness can be made at the famous hanging bridge which joins the -mainland with the island rock of Carrickarede, near Port Ballintoy. -The bridge consists of planks laid two abreast, and lashed to ropes; -a single rope is the only handrail. The people use it to get out to -their nets and boats for the salmon fishing, which are kept out here, -and also, since there is grass on the island, for carrying sheep -across on their backs. For my own part I stepped on to it readily -enough; but when it bent down steeply under me, and inclined to swing, -the surprise was not pleasant. And though I forced myself to cross it -a second time, back and forward, to convince myself that there was no -necessity for qualms, I cannot say that the qualms wholly disappeared. -As for carrying a sheep over, or a bale of nets, heaven defend me! But -I never heard that anyone, native or tourist, drunk or sober, came to -grief there! The drop is about eighty feet into deep water between -cliffs. - - - - -THE MAIDEN CITY - - -Adjoining the Route, and divided from it by the River Bann, is -County Derry, which was once the territory of the O'Cahans, chief -_urraghts_ or sub-chiefs of the O'Neills. When the O'Neill was by -adoption of the clans installed after the Irish usage at Tullaghogue -in County Tyrone, it was the O'Cahan who performed the ceremony of -inauguration. With these facts two memories connect themselves for -me. The first is that when the Gaelic League was established, to save -the language of Ireland from oblivion and decay, amongst those who -joined it was the Reverend Dr. Kane, a mighty orator on every Twelfth -of July, when the anniversary of the Boyne is celebrated. "I may be -an Orangeman," he wrote, "but I do not forget that I am an O'Cahan." -Many of us who did not share his politics cherish his memory for that -saying. The other associated idea for me is that, once setting out -with other nationalist speakers, I was followed by a strong body of -police. Asking why, I was told they were to prevent an attack on us in -Tullaghogue, which is now a strong Orange centre! - -Coleraine is where you join the train to get to Derry, and the rail -skirts the shore of Lough Foyle--easternmost of the great succession -of sea loughs which make the distinctive beauty of Donegal. -Inishowen, its western shore, is included in that county by English -geography, though this peninsula never formed part of Tyrconnell. -Its lordship was always disputed between O'Neill and O'Donnell, and -the best evidence of its separateness is given by the ecclesiastical -boundary, which here, as always, follows the old tribal demarcation. -All the rest of Donegal is comprised in the diocese of Raphoe, but -Inishowen falls under the see of Derry. One result of that was -traceable in the fact that _poteen_ (illicit whisky) was freely -procurable in Inishowen long after its manufacture had ceased in -any other part of Donegal; for the austere decree which the present -bishop of Raphoe--an O'Donnell and a ruler of men--proclaimed against -this "smuggling" had no effect east of the Swilly, though throughout -Tyrconnel it was heard and obeyed, to the great advantage of his -people, whom the old traffic (which I remember flourishing in spite -of law and police, fines, seizures, and imprisonments) had seriously -demoralized. - -Derry and Raphoe have for a century been in the Protestant Church one -united see, and in the days before disestablishments, made a princely -preferment. You can see the proof of it at Castlerock, where the line -from Coleraine strikes out on the shore of Lough Foyle by the long -Magilligan strand. Here is Downhill, the seat built in the eighteenth -century by that amazing prelate Lord Augustus Adolphus Hervey, Earl of -Bristol and Bishop of Derry, who took a leading and not a very pacific -part in organizing the volunteers and in winning Ireland's legislative -independence. - -"He appeared always", says Sir Jonah Barrington, "dressed with -peculiar care and neatness, generally entirely in purple, and he wore -diamond knee and shoe buckles; but what I most observed was that he -wore white gloves with gold fringe round the wrists and large gold -tassels hanging from them." A troop of horse headed by his nephew -used to escort him everywhere and to mount guard at his door. Later, -growing tired of Ireland, he migrated to Italy on the plea of ill -health; and though many of his costly purchases were sent home to -Downhill, where unhappily a fire destroyed the most valuable, he -never came back, but remained abroad (says the austere Lecky, himself -born on the shore of Lough Foyle), "adopting the lax moral habits of -Neapolitan society", and in extreme old age writing letters to Emma, -Lady Hamilton, "in a strain of most unepiscopal fervour". - -There are no such bishops nowadays, but my childhood was familiar -with the last of Lord Bristol's successors under the old order--the -late Bishop Alexander, most eloquent of divines, afterwards Primate -of Ireland. His talents brought him to the episcopate, while still -a young man, only a year or two before disestablishment, and the -life-interest in his £12,000 a year came to be compounded, not only -for his own benefit, but for that of the Church. While the financial -negotiation was still in progress, my father, then rector of a parish -in Donegal, and financier-in-chief to the diocese, sent his bishop out -for a day's driving in charge of a young curate, and trysted to meet -them on Mulroy Bay. Arrived there, he saw with dismay the bishop, not -on land but afloat, being sculled by the curate through the numberless -rocks and swirling currents of Mulroy in a battered curragh--a hundred -thousand pounds of ecclesiastical capital divided from submersion by -a piece of tarred calico. And the famous orator, even at that period -of his life, could not have weighed less than eighteen stone. Long -years after, the curate, become venerable in his turn, remembered and -recalled for me the rating which he received when at last he landed -his passenger. - -Another memory from the same source may be worth recalling. Downhill -is the house which Charles Lever describes in his novel, _The -Bramleighs of Bishop's Folly_, though the story has no historic -connection with the house or any of its inmates. But Lever knew this -"Bishop's Folly" in the days when he was a dispensary doctor at -Portstewart, and my father remembers well how _Harry Lorrequer_ came -out by instalments in the _Dublin Morning Magazine_, with what delight -he heard them read aloud, and how sudden was the addition of interest -when one day the news came in that the anonymous author was no other -than their own dispensary doctor--the brilliant young collegian for -whom a place had been suddenly created in this outlying village during -one of the visitations of cholera. After that, whenever the doctor -came to call, a shy boy used to creep into the drawing-room and -ensconce himself, apparently with a book, out of sight behind a sofa, -where, undisturbed by apprehensions, he could be all ears for the -rattling talk of that wonderful tale-teller. - -Lever learnt a good deal in Portstewart from a neighbour, W. H. -Maxwell, author of _Wild Sport of the West_, who lived in those days -at Portrush. But it was the west and south of Ireland that always -drew Lever--his florid taste in incident and humour found its choice -elsewhere than in the discreet greys and browns of Ulster character. -And east of Lough Foyle he was still in the Ulster which politicians -mean--the country of the plantations. Derry is in reality its frontier -town, though the Scotch strain and the Protestant element ramify out -from Derry a certain distance into Donegal. - -[Illustration: FAIR HEAD, CO. ANTRIM] - -But the frontier town, like all frontier towns in a country -that has been much fought over, keeps an intense, militant, and -aggressive character. Derry stands for the extreme type of Protestant -assertion--oddly enough, for in the beginning of its history, it -was the monastic seat, Doire Coluimchille, "Columba's Oakgrove", to -which that great apostle of Christianity looked back from his mission -overseas--"thinking long" in Iona for-- - - "Derry mine, my own oakgrove, - Little cell, my home, my love". - -There is no reason to doubt the authenticity of that Irish poem, -transmitted in ancient manuscript, which a scholar has thus -translated--Columba's lyric cry towards the Ireland which he had left. - -Yet, after all, the new is more to us than the old, and Derrymen have -good right to be proud of Derry walls. The famous siege was a great -event, the resistance was indeed heroic, though I think that popular -fame has selected the wrong man to be the centre of hero-worship. A -tall column which rises from the walls behind the bishop's palace -is Walker's monument, and Walker was no soldier but an elderly, -loquacious, and somewhat vain, preacher. If contemporary records -are any safe guide, the true organizer and inspirer of that long -resistance was Murray--whose fame, I am glad to say, is kept alive -by a Murray club. Yet the man who best of all, perhaps, deserves -commemoration has no memorial in Derry. The siege had lasted from -April 18, and on June 13 the town was already starving when a fleet -was sighted in Lough Foyle. Kirke, who commanded it, lay outside, -intimidated by the defences of the narrow channel. So it went on for -six weeks; but there was at least one Derry man with the fleet who -could brook the delay no longer. This was Captain Browning, of the -_Mountjoy_, and he insisted that attempts should be made to run the -batteries and to break the boom, whose site is still preserved in the -name "Boom Hall". The _Mountjoy_ was a merchant-man, and another, the -_Phoenix_, of Coleraine, joined the venture, and a frigate was sent -with them to help in drawing the enemy's fire. The _Mountjoy_, with -Browning himself at the helm, headed straight for the boom under full -sail, struck it, and with the impact the boom gave. But the shock -caused a rebound which flung the ship back on a mudbank, and at the -same moment Browning was shot down at his post. The _Phoenix_ had -slipped already through the gap and was away with her full cargo of -meal. Boats were out from the forts to seize the _Mountjoy_; but she -fired a broadside, and the recoil lifted her off the bank, and she too -slipped through, carrying the body of her dying skipper to the wharf -of the city which his courage and determination had rescued from -famine and from enforced surrender. Life stayed in him long enough to -let him hear the cries of welcome, to know that the goal was reached, -the blockade broken, and his city saved, before the rush of blood from -his pierced lungs finally choked him: and surely no man ever died a -more enviable death. - -Yet in truth it was the people who had rescued themselves. In the -previous month of December, before hostilities were really declared, -King James had been imbecile enough to withdraw the troops which held -the city. A fresh garrison under Lord Antrim was marching in, and was -seen actually outside the walls. The city fathers deliberated; it was -thirteen prentice boys of the town who armed themselves, rushed to -the Ferryquay gate, seized the keys, and locked it in the teeth of -Antrim's men, when they were within sixty yards of the entrance. - -This deed is commemorated annually on December 18th, when Lundy, the -officer who commanded in James's interest, is duly burnt in effigy--or -used to be. Nowadays Catholic and Protestant are so evenly balanced in -the "Maiden City" that such demonstrations risk a formidable riot, and -are accordingly kept in check. - -But the embers are always hot, and crave wary walking. Once a concert -was being held, "strictly non-sectarian", and it had been decided -to omit "God save the King", which in Ireland is made into a party -tune. All went off smoothly, and the building was being emptied, when -suddenly war rose. The organist, a stranger, had thought it would be -proper to play the people out with "Auld Lang Syne"--not knowing that -to this tune is sung "Derry Walls", most aggressive of Protestant -melodies. - -Derry walls are there, broad and solid--you can drive a coach on them. -But, what is more important, you can there find the best entertainment -that I know in Ireland. A little hotel, whose doorway gives on to the -east wall, is kept by Mrs. MacMahon, and all persons of understanding -go there to get the kind of meal which you may hope for in the -pleasantest north of Ireland country home: the fruits of the earth, -the fowl of the air, the fish of the sea, each according to his kind -(not omitting Lough Swilly oysters), with the home-made bread, which -is one of Ulster's greatest charms. It is not an elaborate modern -hotel. If it were, you would not get the sort of entertainment that -I describe; but to stay there is to get an insight, and a most happy -insight, into the homeliness, the hospitality, the shrewdness, and the -good housewifery of Ulster. - -[Illustration: LONDONDERRY FROM THE WATERSIDE] - - - - -TIRCONNELL - - -Donegal has become to-day the best pleasure ground in Ireland. Second -only to Kerry in natural beauty, and superior to it in grandeur, -for Kerry has no cliff scenery to compare with Slieve League and -Horn Head, it has far more variety of resource than the southern -county--or, in two words, it has golf and Kerry has not; and it has -much more free fishing. It is equipped as a playground, and as a -playground I shall write of it--with this preface. When I was a boy, -between thirty and forty years ago, there were only two passable -hotels west of Lough Swilly, Lord George Hill's at Gweedore, and Mr. -Connolly's at Carrick. Both of these were built for men who wanted -to fish and shoot; and to reach them meant in literal truth a day's -journey into the wilderness. There was no railway in the county except -the little line from Derry to Buncrana; and it was the regular usage -for strangers to bring introductions which got them hospitality from -the resident gentry. I remember scores of such casual visitors at the -big, old rectory where I was brought up. - -To-day there is hardly any point in the county more than ten miles -distant from a rail--Irish miles of course, and hilly ones. But when -the train takes you from Derry to Burtonport, curving in behind Lough -Swilly, and following all the northern coast to its extreme remotest -corner, you may fume, as I have often fumed, at the vagaries of that -wonderful organization; you may think it amazing to be a matter of -three hours late in a journey of four hours, as has happened to me; -still, it is well to remember how you might have had to drive the -same distance on an outside car in such wind and rain as Donegal can -furnish. - -And of course the delays I speak of are probably not so usual as at -the first wild beginnings of that traffic. No longer, probably, will -you see the engine driver getting out to replenish his supply of fuel -from a wayside turf stack; no longer will you need to scour the whole -countryside for a truckload of luggage casually mislaid. It is only -fair to add that where I finally unearthed our possessions was at a -mountain siding near two excellent salmon pools, with which I then -became acquainted and where I subsequently caught fish. If the engine -does break down anywhere on that run there is sure to be a little -river within a mile or so, and it is quite worth putting up your rod -and going out to have a try; at least one man to my knowledge returned -triumphantly with a good salmon--the messenger sent to fetch him -having come in handy to gaff it. - -But in all seriousness tourists have got to remember that these -lines are not there for holiday traffic. Goods and passengers travel -together, and the real purpose of the whole is to give a market -to the thousands of cottagers along that wild yet populous shore. -What it means is that the coast fisherman who nets a salmon now can -sell it for perhaps twopence a pound less than it will fetch in -Billingsgate--tenpence, a shilling even, for summer fish. In the old -days there was no one to give him more than perhaps a shilling for -his whole fish. And in truth in the old days a Donegal peasant hardly -conceived that he could be the legitimate possessor of a salmon. - -That is the real change. In the days that I remember, the country was -owned by the landlords, was governed by them and by their agents, with -assistance from the Church of Ireland clergy. To-day a great part of -the land is owned by the people who till it; it is all governed by -them. And in increasing measure they own even the game, most jealously -guarded of seigniorial rights. - -Take, for example, the little town of Milford. I remember it a -miserable line of hovels, with only two decent buildings, the -agent's house and the always imposing police barrack. To-day it has -an excellent hotel, and every look of prosperity. I remember when -every soul in it and for ten miles round was in the grip of a really -tyrannical landlord, whose murder, when it ultimately came, was indeed -an act of what Bacon calls "wild justice". Much of the improvement -visible here is due to the able and courageous man who succeeded the -"old lord". But, good landlord or bad landlord, no man can ever again -hold that countryside at his pleasure, cowering under the threat of -eviction. Rent is fixed by a court, and while a man pays his rent he -is irremovable. And within a short period every man will be paying, -not rent, but instalments of purchase for the land which he and his -predecessors have worked--which in nine cases out of ten they have -reclaimed from bog and barren moor. With the ownership of the land the -game rights must ultimately go, and in many cases already they have -gone. The hotel proprietor at Milford, an enterprising man, had, I -found, bargained with not a few tenant purchasers for the exclusive -fishing of little lakes in their property and for the shooting over -their moors and bogs. That is the attraction which he has to offer to -visitors, who, now that the country is opened up, come in shoals. On -Lough Fern, the big lake adjoining, it was unusual to see two boats -fishing, three made a rarity. Now, in summer, there will be fifteen or -sixteen out. And not only that, but boats have been put on seven or -eight of the numberless smaller lakes and bogholes which nobody ever -fished at all, except once in a blue moon, when a curragh would be -carted over. Some of them breed good trout, and now these are being -stocked with a new strain of fish. All this means the circulation -of money in the country where poverty before was universal, where -famine even was not unknown. A failure of the potato crop to-day is a -grievous loss: thirty years ago it meant something like starvation. - -What took me to Milford the other day was significant of the new -order. I was with a departmental committee appointed to consider how -the fisheries of Ireland would be affected by the substitution of -peasant proprietary for landlord ownership; and our main purpose was -to emphasize the value of the interests involved, the possibility -of increasing that value, and the necessity for combination unless -the whole were to be destroyed. And here was no question merely of -providing an attraction for the summer visitor: it meant conserving a -mainstay of livelihood for hundreds of labouring men. - -When I was a boy a regular feature in that countryside was the fish -pedlar--some old man or old woman with a donkey and two creels, -hawking round fish that had been carted up from the coast by -Sheephaven. Along the prosperous settled shores of Lough Swilly, by -Ramelton and Letterkenny, these poor folk found a market at the end -of a day's journey. It was a poor market and a small one. But since -the railroad was instituted, the fish pedlar takes a back place. Fish -goes straight to the great towns, and it has been worth men's while to -organize for catching the summer run of salmon which skirt the coast -in June and July. From Malin Head to Arranmore, and from Arranmore -into Donegal Bay, scores of thousands of pounds must have been earned -in this way during the past seven or eight years by the coast-dwelling -folk, half-farmers, half-fishermen, working through the short nights -in their four-oared yawls. A lucky crew will earn ten pounds a man in -two months' fishing--in a country from which each year thousands go -across to Scotland or Lancashire for field labour and are content if -they bring home ten pounds for their season's toil. It is easy to see -how great an added source of prosperity this fishing means. Yet if -the fish are killed out in the breeding streams, it ends the fishing; -and when a river is divided into a hundred interests instead of one, -no individual has a sufficient inducement to preserve the stock of -salmon. A lesson in citizenship has to be learnt; public opinion -has to be created. Donegal is leading in the attempt to develop -co-operative preservation of game and fish, and whoever helps that -endeavour is doing a good turn, not only to the interests of sport, -but to the interests of Ireland. - -[Illustration: TORY ISLAND FROM FALCARRAGH HILL, DONEGAL] - -Golf, which for the present is even a greater attraction than -sport, does not extend into the wilder parts of the country; though, -indeed, twenty years ago Port Salon and Rosapenna, where the most -famous links are, were outlandish enough: it is golf that has brought -them well into the pale of civilization--over-civilization, some of us -grumble, when we see smart frocks among the sandhills by Downings Bay. -Yet anyone who goes to Rosapenna, and has curiosity enough to enquire, -can learn the whole history of a great industry's development within -a score of years--for Downings is the centre of a most prosperous -herring fishery, and the girls and boys from that outlying region are -fetched at high wages to do skilled work in curing herring wherever -herring are being caught, as far south as Dublin Bay, and very likely -beyond. - -And if I had any choice of all the fine places in Ireland to spend -a holiday in, I would choose the one which makes the centre of Mr. -Williams's sketch from Rosapenna--the low headland of Ards, jutting -into Sheephaven, with wood of oak, and fir, and beech, and ash, so -exquisitely blended, spread for a covering over ground so beautifully -diversified; with little bays and creeks of blue water over the -cleanest and tawniest sand running up into the heart of wooded or -heathery slopes. Nowhere else is the scent of the brine so clean and -strong across the other pungencies of heath, and bog-myrtle, of oak, -and of bracken; nowhere else that I know does a perfect day give such -fulfilment of desire. - -Rosapenna shore and the village of Carrigart are too much dominated -by the hotel and by foreign ways for my liking; but on the opposite -shore, where Portnablah gives a harbour (not safe, alas!) to the boats -of my friends, is the place of all my affections. This rocky little -townland is set thick with whitewashed cottages, and here it has been -an old custom for Irish folk from Derry and Letterkenny to come to -the salt water and find homely quarters. The "bathers", as they are -called, have of late years grown to be a multitude: if you want rooms -in a farmhouse there you must bespeak them far in advance, and no -wonder. If my ghost haunts any place it will be there, where the white -road to Dunfanaghy (white, for this is a limestone tract), leaving the -wall of Ards demesne, rises to a crest with a few houses (filled with -bathers) on the right; and on your left is Sessiagh Lake, prosperously -stocked with trout, and watched over by an old herring fisher, still -able to pull a stout oar when the strong gale catches that high-lying -water, but for the most part happy to drift contentedly and spin yarns -about the men and the things and the fish that he has known. Quick -with his tongue, too, in a leisurely way. "I suppose people very -seldom die here," said a stranger, commenting on the healthiness of -the situation. "Never more nor once," said old Tom. - -Beyond the houses and the limekiln and the glimpse of Sessiagh's -delusive waters (Heaven knows how many blank days I fished there!) -is a line of grassy hillocks--the mass of Horn Head blocks the view -beyond them to the west, but full north, suddenly, held in the curve -between two of these little summits, you catch sight of the Atlantic -blue. Blue, it may be, or purple, or greyish green, or black almost, -with white spray flying; but there it is, held as if in a cup--the -very quintessence of the saltness, the strength, and the freedom of -the sea. When the herring are in, you shall see it dotted over with -smacks and yawls, and here and there a curragh crawling slowly on the -water like some black insect; or at night all a-twinkle with lights, -till you rub your eyes and wonder if a town has not suddenly sprung -into being. And all about, the steep shores of the bay are patched -and striped with careful tillage, crops, well-tended, nestling in for -shelter under every rocky hummock; and nestled, too, into the folds of -the ground, are the white-fronted houses, with stone pegs across their -eaves for cording to lash the roof secure against their terrible gales. - -It is worth while being there in bad weather, to watch the run of -sea on those cliffs; sometimes, in a sinister calm, rolling in -mountain-high, tearing itself to whiteness on the long black spines of -rock; and then, after this forerunner, comes the storm itself. It is -then, when you see the smacks running in for shelter, or when, after a -night of this, you see them put out to pick up costly nets that have -been cut adrift to save men's lives, and that still must be recovered -even at grave peril--it is then you will realize how these people take -a grip of their country and cling to the foothold for which all life -is a struggle. - -Yet life goes merrily there. In the winter through some parishes there -will be dancing almost every night in one cottage or another, and the -crowd is thick on the floor and about the big turf fire. - -[Illustration: MUCKISH AND ARDS FROM ROSAPENNA, SHEEPHAVEN, DONEGAL] - -These people are for the most part pure Irish, and west of Dunfanaghy -all are Irish speakers. Under Irish rule it was the territory of the -M'Swineys, chief urraghts of the O'Donnell, and Doe Castle, at the -outfall of the Lackagh, was the fortress of the chief of the name. -Owen Roe O'Neill made his landing here, Cromwell's most formidable -opponent in Ireland--removed at last either by sickness or poison. -Here Red Hugh O'Donnell was fostered by Owen M'Swiney of the Battle -Axes before the treacherous kidnapping at Rathmullen. There were three -M'Swiney clans--M'Swiney Doe, M'Swiney Banaght in the west of the -county, and M'Swiney Fanad in the peninsula that divides Mulroy -from Swilly. Each had its own war tune, and a schoolmaster friend of -mine--himself a Sweeny--who collected native airs, had got two of the -three, but not the third; until at last he heard of an old bedridden -man in Fanad who might have it. He rode the twenty miles from his home -at Gartan, with fiddle on his back, and found the old peasant wavering -on the brink of death, yet still able to frame feebly the whistle or -lilt, which my friend picked up on the strings of the fiddle bit by -bit, till gradually he had it all, and, there and then, by the dying -man's bedside, set the cabin ringing with the oldtime war march of his -clan. - -Another M'Sweeny that I have known was Turlough, the famous piper of -Gweedore, whose repute has travelled far overseas. Aristocrat he is to -the finger tips--saddened indeed because those fine finger tips have -been coarsened by spade labour. "Look," he said to me; "can there be -any music in these hands?" He told me his own generations, connecting -him back with the hereditary bards of the M'Swineys, and I said that -he must know the history of the county better than most. "No," he -answered; "I was never curious of these things, except just as they -concerned myself and my own people." - -Mr. Williams's picture shows Errigal where it rises by Gweedore over -Dunlewy Lake--one of the grandest among Ireland's mountains. But the -most striking view of it is east of Gweedore, where the little river -flows out by Gortahork; and here is a thing of much interest, the -Cloghaneely College, where folk go to study Ulster Irish amongst those -who have it for their native speech. Still farther east is Falcarragh, -and the view which Mr. Williams has given adds less than due emphasis -to the astonishing castellated outline of Tory where it rises out of a -tremendous depth of water. I never landed there, though I often talked -with the Tory fishers, including one who had made his fortune at the -goldfields and come back to the place of his birth among the rocks -and the fish heads. There is one sheltered spot, one growing bush, -and one only, on Tory. There, of course, Irish is the language, and -they maintain the practice of verse, chiefly for purposes of satire; -quarrels are revenged in rhyme. I talked to a red-bearded mountainy -man near Gortahork about this, but he said it was a peevish thing to -do; he would rather have a skelp at a man. In truth there is an old -feud between Tory and the shore, and fierce battles have been waged. -I do not know why so few people stop at Falcarragh: there is a good -little hotel, the views are beautiful, there are three little rivers, -all holding salmon, and, at the point where the longest of them flows -out across the long range of sand beach west of Horn Head, there is -a view of Tory and of Horn Head that passes all I know. Running water -across sand, clean sand dunes and grey bent, pure illimitable sea and -high cliffs, sunsmitten or in shadow--there is landscape reduced to -the simplest terms of a broad elemental beauty. - -Also at Falcarragh there must be the makings of a links equal to any -in Ireland. The line of dunes runs for several miles along the sea, -ending in one of the strangest natural features I know, the huge -mountain of clean sand which centuries of westerly gales have piled up -against the rocky mass of Horn Head. That famous head is in truth an -island, the counterpart of Tory on its seaward face, yet in the gap -between it and Dunfanaghy such a deposit of sand has accumulated that -only a small causeway has been needed to give access from the mainland -to the tiny farms and the one demesne. - -If in Donegal you want to buy Donegal homespun, Falcarragh is a good -market for the product, since some weaving is done about there with -an eye to local wear; and what the Donegal man means to wear, the -Donegal housewife "tramps" in soapsuds and water till the web thickens -into a fabric fit to turn weather. On the western shore, by Carrick -and Ardara, where is now the headquarters of this industry, cloth is -produced solely for export, and the English ladies and gentlemen for -whom it is designed seek softness and fineness rather than solidity. -Indeed the countryfolk themselves treat this merchandise with frank -scorn: they fancy something far less flimsy for their own use, and in -old days, when nothing but homespun was worn, it used to be sent to a -tacking mill and battered till the cloth had the thickness of felt. -But the tacking mill at Bunlin, whose big wooden mallets rising and -falling used to interest us children, is a ruin now; and the homespun -of to-day, with its multitude of pleasant colours, is very different -from the massive greys or heavy indigo-dyed frieze which used to come -from that mill. - -The industry has been a godsend to that country, and one wet day in -the little village of Carrick was redeemed to me by the chance of -seeing all these folk, men and women, come marching over the hills -with the baled cloth on their backs, and then watching the bargaining -that proceeded among the various buyers. I bought, too, but I believe -the merchants will not allow the people to sell to tourists any more. - -[Illustration: MOUNT ERRIGAL FROM THE GWEEDORE RIVER, DONEGAL] - -I have not written yet of that western shore which stretches southward -from Dungloe (much haunted by sea-trout fishers) to Glenties, Ardara, -Carrick, and Killybegs. The most beautiful place that I know on it -is at the mouth of the Gweebarra River where it flows out due west -between a line of sandhills which shine dazzling white in the sun -against the immensity of blue. No place is less known; but you can -reach it easily from Portnoo, where is a hotel. And off Portnoo is an -island where on certain days in summer a pilgrimage takes place, at -spring tides, for it is essential to walk barefoot to the island. The -ceremonies performed with certain stones are Christianized in form, -but evidently had an origin long before Christianity. Glenties, some -eight or ten miles farther south, is at a point where several glens -converge (_na Gleantai_, the Glens) in the valley of the Ownea River, -famous for its salmon fishing, which is now vested in purchasing -tenants who have attempted to introduce co-operative preservation. -If the experiment succeeds it will mean better preservation than has -ever been known before; if it fail, I fear that one great source of -the salmon supply will be wiped out, with loss to sport, and with loss -much graver to all the labouring fishers who live by that industry. -But, as things stand, the man who wants good fishing is more likely to -get it cheap at Glenties or Ardara than any other place known to me. -In both towns there is a decent hotel. Ardara stands near the outfall -of the Ownea but actually on a smaller river, the Owentogher, which -is not only very picturesque, but a good stream for salmon and sea -trout, if only it could be preserved. And one of the most pleasant -bits of fishing I ever had was on a tiny stream, the Brocky, which -comes down a mile farther on and was fishable before the tearing flood -had subsided in the bigger rivers. - -Glenties and Ardara are places where you go for sport, though the -beauty of mountain and river is all about you. But for scenery Carrick -and Killybegs are your destination. Killybegs is the terminus of that -light railway which runs from Donegal town along the north shore -of Donegal bay, past the Marquis of Cunningham's wooded demesne at -first, but gradually getting into wilder country, till at last it -reaches this trim little town on its magnificent harbour. Warships use -that harbour, and there is nowadays a good fishing fleet operating -from it for the herring and mackerel; but of other commerce it knows -little. Yet for the lover of boating and bathing it would be hard to -discover a more attractive spot. There, too, you can see the parent -factory of the Donegal carpet trade; and pretty it is to see the big -looms, with a row of six or seven little girls bareheaded (and often -barefooted) in front of each, with nimble fingers knotting on the -tufts of richly coloured wool, or driving them down into their place -in the solid fabric, while the pattern grows slowly before you on -the wide warp. It is odd that so rare a merchandise should come out -of these impoverished regions, for no costlier carpets are made; but -labour is cheap, and willing, and skilful, and nowhere else is factory -work done under more wholesome or happy conditions. All the big room -seemed to be a-ripple and a-play with the young faces and the swift, -graceful movements of these children, for most of them are no more -than children; and small though the wage they earn, it is a big thing -in that countryside, where the old-age pensioner with five shillings -a week seemed at first to himself or herself rich beyond imagination. -There is another of the factories at Kilcar, halfway to Carrick, built -in a sheltered nook almost by the sea; and another in the wild tract -between Gweedore and Falcarragh. - -To the west of Killybegs begins that wonderful line of cliff -stretching away past Carrick and Glen Columbkille, and girdling all -the projecting headland till it runs back to Loughros Bay, near -Ardara. For wildness and for majesty this region has no equal, except -in Achill; and it has what Achill lacks, the charm of rivers. Mr. -Williams's pictures illustrate well the coastline, which even when -it is low runs out with huge flag stones and giant boulders into -the deep--fit buttress against such waves as roll in there even on -a day of calm. Everything is big there; distances are long, and a -mile never seems to get you far in any direction. It is a country to -walk, the finest of all the countries known to me; but I would gladly -supplement my walking with a bicycle, travelling one of the roads as -far as it will carry me and then leaving it simply by the ditch at -the roadside, among the osmunda fern which grows everywhere free as -the heather. It commits you to return that way; but what you leave -by the roadside is as safe as if Argus watched it--unless, indeed, -some mountainy heifer should pass that way and eat it: they will -chew anything from a fishing rod to a suit of clothes. I have seen -embarrassed bathers pursuing an active cow, who carried essential -garments in her mouth, still masticating them even while she pranced -in her clumsy gallop.--Carrick is the centre for this country and -Slieve League the great excursion; it is a fine walk down by the -little port of Teelin and then up the track which winds along the -cliff edge of the mountain--perhaps the finest view of all is when you -are halfway, with seven or eight hundred feet of sheer cliff below you -and the steep face towering up another thousand above. At the somewhat -overrated hazard of the One Man's Pass you would fall, I dare say, -sixteen hundred feet before you reached the water; but from the top a -pebble may be dropped two thousand feet plumb into the sea. - -[Illustration: GLENVEAGH, DONEGAL] - -Horn Head is only seven or eight hundred feet; yet because the cliff -face there is undercut, and the Horns themselves project so oddly, -it always seemed to me a dizzier place than the greater cliff. The -really marvellous thing at Slieve League is that view across Donegal -Bay to the mountains of Sligo, Benbulbin of magic fame, and along the -wild Mayo coast that stretches out and out to the west till the long -promontory is finished off by island rocks, the Stags of Broadhaven. - -Yet, since I scorn to deceive, what endears Carrick to me is not its -cliff scenery, but its little rivers and its people. I know the rivers -are too small: you cannot seriously hope to kill salmon there except -in a raging flood, and then your flood runs off in a couple of hours: -I hooked four fish there inside the first hour after breakfast, killed -two of them, and never touched another all day. But for sheer beauty; -for infinite variety in the shape and colour of flowing water (the -most beautiful thing to me on God's earth); for pools where the eddy -swirls past clean rock with glossy ferns in every crevice; for banks -where the scent of bog-myrtle is all about as you brush through the -heather; for anything that can entice the eye of an angler, I never -saw the equal of that main stream. The little Owen Buidhe, too, in its -boggy glen, has attractions of its own, deeper pools and seductive -corners; but it is the Glen River, flowing down from Meenaneary, that -haunts my vision when in London I crave for the things that I desired -in boyhood, and love more in middle age. - -And of all the human beings whom I have known among the peasant folk -of Ireland, none had ever quite the charm of old Charlie Carr, the -gillie who fished with me at Carrick. By an odd chance, he was no -sportsman. He would want you to be pleased, and to catch fish, if -so you fancied it; but I remember how my vanity was hurt when, on a -difficult day, I had hooked and landed a fine sea trout, the first -that anyone had seen for a long time. "Them O'Hagans was great people -too", he said as he shook the fish out of the net, calmly pursuing his -discourse about the ancient days and the generations of old, and the -lore of those few books which he had, and studied with passion. He -was no true shanachie; what of Irish legend and song his memory kept -had no real value. He was a lover of knowledge, not for vanity, not -for the sense of power, but simply because it added to the richness -of life--one of God's gifts that he welcomed as the sunshine. If -ever I met a happy nature, a soul without spot, it was this Irish -peasant; if ever I have seen letters full of grace and simplicity -they were those that reached me once in a rare while from that lonely -glen, asking, never for himself, but perhaps that I would give a -prize to some school children, or the like, and always full of an -affection that knew no difference between man and man. I can see now -the wonderful blue eyes in that kind face, a handsome peasant face -with its fringe of grey close-cropped whisker. If I remember a word -of complaint from him, it was when he saw his neighbour go by on a -car--a man no soberer, no more industrious, no better educated than -himself, yet one who had had the instinct for buying and selling, for -putting penny to penny and pound to pound. The neighbour was a good -man too, in his way; kindly and friendly, prompt to do a service, yet -not to be reckoned amongst those elect upon earth whom everyone using -discernment will have recognized on his way through life, of whom not -a few that I have known have been Donegal peasants. But none had quite -the grace, the simplicity, and the distinction of this old dreamer and -student who carries net and basket by the Glen River without repute -among men. - -For all my love of Carrick I could hardly conceive of living there. -It is too bare, too vast. And though there is no frost, though every -second bush you see in summer is crimson fuchsia full of blossoms, yet -winter must be of a terrible loneliness. But the Donegal that I was -brought up in--Donegal of more inhabited and habitable shores by Lough -Swilly and Sheephaven and Mulroy--does seem to me a place not for -summer visitants only. However, this book concerns itself with summer, -and nowhere is summer more delightful. Of course it rains often, and -sometimes hard. "Did it rain ony wi' ye?" "It didna tak time to rain; -it just cam doun buckets," is a fragment of descriptive dialogue. But -take the country as I saw it in mid-July, when London was stewing -on a griddle of asphalt and flags, and when English country was all -one monotonous deadened green with heavy haze dimming the blueness. -Out at Bunlin, beyond Milford, all was green too; I looked from the -steep road across a glen breast-deep in bracken, with the curve of -Cratlagh wood beyond, and nearer me trim fields of green oats and -turnips. There was beauty of line there in Mulroy with its score of -scattered islands, in the hills, not very high, but very mountainous, -bold, and jagged, falling from the peak of Lough Salt to the glen, and -to the Mulroy water, crest by crest, sharp to the last little rocky -hillock. There was beauty of colour too, for the green of the bracken -was broken by silvery grey stone, with glint of mica in it, showing -up through the fern, and crowned or set about with purple cushions -of heath, here and there a foxglove adding another and a brighter -purple. There was wonderful beauty of detail in the wooding nestled -into the hills--wild growth, scrub oak, light, feathery ash and -birch, with the gleam of silvery stems, Scotch fir and larch--planted -trees, yet falling naturally into forestation which had none of the -heaviness, the citizen look of elm and sycamore. All was light, hardy -and strong--not a wilderness, but a cared-for country where the eye -wandered over a fair expanse of varied beauty, lying there in full -summer without summer's drowsiness or blowsiness. Lightness, airiness, -was the note of it all--light air, breath of bog-myrtle across the -salt of the sea; and even the decent homely people, lacking the graces -of Cork and Kerry, had yet in their motion and in their eye just the -dash of wildness which marks the Celtic strain. - -[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO MULROY BAY, DONEGAL] - -Next day was Donegal all over--fresh breeze, clouds driving swiftly, -and then bright sun, lighting up a lovely blueness. We were out on -small lakes up among the hills, two of us who fancied ourselves not -a little as fishermen, and got no encouragement for that faith; but -after all what could be pleasanter, airier, or more resting and more -bracing at once? and how good one's lunch is on the stones by a reedy -shore! I had to go back to London, and the car took me to Rathmullen -on the Swilly shore; and when the little steamer put out from the pier -it seemed to me that of these lovely loughs this is after all the -most beautiful. All was grey and green in the westering light; the -hills on the Inishowen shore opposite showed softer than the crags by -Mulroy. They were green now, with the olive green of young heather; in -another month they would be glowing purple. The lough as we crossed it -was a great round lake throwing arms west and south-west to Ramelton -and Letterkenny, beyond which all was bathed in a sunny haze. As we -ran farther out, the western mountains of Inishowen came in sight, -then suddenly beyond Dunree the sea gap opened, letting the eye out -to limitless ocean; and soon the sheer crag of the Binn of Fanad was -disclosed flanking that portal on the west. Looking back to the shore -we left, the Devil's Backbone writhed sinister and jagged along the -crest of the Knockalla range behind Rathmullen; and away to the west -in the sun haze, accustomed eyes could make out the faint shapes of -Errigal and Dooish. - -History was all about us, evident in actual landmarks. On the hills -which divide the lough from Derry stood out boldly the ring of stone, -the great circular fort, which was the Grianan of Aileach, chief -seat of the northern Hy Niall, whose kinsfolk reigned in Tara. Here -Patrick preached about 450 A.D., baptized Eoghan, founder of -the great Tyrone clan, the O'Neills. Here, in a later age, came an -O'Brien of Thomond, one of Brian Boru's earliest successors, to avenge -a raid of these Northerners on Clare, and the stones of Aileach were -carried away to be built into the cathedral at Limerick. Over at -Rathmullen is the beach from which the boy Hugh O'Donnell was rowed -out to see the English ship which lay at anchor, offering hospitality -with black treachery behind; for the crew cut their cables while the -young chief and his company were below seeing the vessel's stores, and -sailed off with the prisoner so dishonourably made, to the Castle of -Dublin, where Hugh lay for years immured, captured but not submissive; -attempting escape after escape with unfailing heart till at last he -got loose, and after bare deliverance from death in the snow-covered -hills was free to exact a reckoning for the wrongs he had suffered. - -On a low hill beyond Inch Island rises the square town of Birt, which -has memories of another chief, Cahir O'Dogherty, lord of Inishowen. -Cahir was fostered by the M'Devitts of Birt, and when Red Hugh claimed -lordship over Inishowen, the M'Devitts sought English protection -for their foster-brother and got it. The O'Dogherty became the -Englishmen's ally and helped to pronounce forfeiture on O'Donnell and -O'Neill after the two great earls took their flight in 1607--setting -out from this same ill-omened port of Rathmullen. But a new governor -of Derry arrived, quarrelled with Cahir O'Dogherty and struck him. -The blow was dearly paid for. Cahir went back to Birt, called out -the M'Devitts, and sacked and burnt Derry. But the Irish power had -been broken beyond retrieving when the earls fled, and O'Dogherty was -soon a mere outlaw on his keeping. They ran him to earth finally by -Doon Well, near Kilmacrenan, where he was shot dead in the encounter. -Doon Well is famous to-day, but I doubt if many there remember Cahir -O'Dogherty's fate, or even that on the Rock of Doon took place the -installation of each O'Donnell prince. What is remembered is the -sanctity of the holy well, whose water still draws thousands of -pilgrims and still works miracles of healing. - -History more modern is in view at Lough Swilly, for here the English -fleet brought in their prizes after the action with Bonaparte in 1798, -and brought more than they knew, for they had captured Theobald Wolfe -Tone, the most dangerous enemy to England that Ireland had in those -or perhaps any other days. To-day there is a strong guard on Lough -Swilly. Dunree--_Dun Riogh_--means the King's Fort and the king has -his fort there, of the most modern type, commanding the entrance to -this great haven, with an armament very unlike that of the martello -towers which are dotted about, marking another of England's recurring -scares--the scare of the "French colonels" under the lesser Napoleon. - -All these things came into my mind as I sat on the beach by Fahan and -watched the colour fade out and new colour take its place--masses -of dark green where there had been shimmers of grey and blue. Other -memories came there too--less historical: it was there that somewhere -in the 'seventies I had my first sight of a real railway train. -I carry away from Lough Swilly my earliest as well as my latest -impression of pleasant, beautiful Ulster, enhanced by a grateful -thought of the dinner which Mrs. MacMahon provided for one about to -take a long night journey. And whoever leaves the north of Ireland -with such impressions on his mind will have no cause to quarrel with -the close of his holiday. - -Yet it is not well to depart leaving unexplored the mountainous -peninsula of Inishowen which separates Lough Swilly from Lough Foyle. -This great ridge of land is dominated by the graceful shape of Slieve -Snacht ("Snow Mountain"), a model of what mountains should be: bold -and peaked, yet with swelling curves that balance on either flank, -it fills the centre of a distance more impressively than far loftier -hills. - -Inishowen was owned by the O'Doghertys, a clan who, tossed between -Tyrone and Tirconnell, had at least great staying power, for the -saying is--you cannot beat a bush in Inishowen without "rising" an -O'Dogherty. Their castles remain, and at Green Castle, on Lough -Foyle, is the work of greater men, Norman-planned, Richard de Burgo's -fortress. Many traces, too, of a far older period are to be seen. -At Carrowmore, not far from Culdaff, is a "souterrain" with five -chambers--a great mansion, in short, for these burrowers. Rivers and -lakes, too, are there with fair fishing, though I believe that a -certain old professor in Derry has skimmed the cream of it all in his -learned leisure, any time this fifty years. But the Castle River at -Buncrana is a fine salmon stream still, and the links there constitute -an attraction for very capable golfers--though not equal to those at -Port Salon on the opposite shore. In a word, if you cannot get to the -west of Lough Swilly you may be very well content with the east of it; -and though much of infinite beauty and interest lies beyond, when you -have seen and known Lough Swilly and its shores, and the people who -live on them--that mixed race, Scot and Irish, lowland and highland, -Protestant and Catholic, all neighbourly together--why, at least you -will have had a very fair chance to know and love, not the Ulster that -people rant about or rail at, but Ulster as it really is. - - -PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN - -_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ - - - - -Transcriber's Notes - - -The Table of Contents has been added for convenience. - -Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks. - -Page 34: Replaced the oe ligature with oe in the two instances of -"Phoenix." - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ULSTER *** - -***** This file should be named 42958-8.txt or 42958-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/9/5/42958/ - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at - www.gutenberg.org/license. - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 -North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email -contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the -Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/42958-8.zip b/42958-8.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cf8b0b2..0000000 --- a/42958-8.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/42958-h.zip b/42958-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index afdd1f8..0000000 --- a/42958-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/42958-h/42958-h.htm b/42958-h/42958-h.htm index 59e564c..b32d597 100644 --- a/42958-h/42958-h.htm +++ b/42958-h/42958-h.htm @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> The Project Gutenberg eBook of Ulster, by Stephen Gwynn. @@ -120,49 +120,7 @@ li { list-style-type: none; text-align: left; } </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Ulster - -Author: Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -Release Date: June 16, 2013 [EBook #42958] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ULSTER *** - - - - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - - - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42958 ***</div> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 431px;"> <img src="images/front_cover.jpg" width="431" height="600" alt="(cover)" /> @@ -892,7 +850,7 @@ with the last of Lord Bristol's successors under the old order—the late Bishop Alexander, most eloquent of divines, afterwards Primate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> of Ireland. His talents brought him to the episcopate, while still a young man, only a year or two before disestablishment, and the -life-interest in his £12,000 a year came to be compounded, not only +life-interest in his £12,000 a year came to be compounded, not only for his own benefit, but for that of the Church. While the financial negotiation was still in progress, my father, then rector of a parish in Donegal, and financier-in-chief to the diocese, sent his bishop out @@ -1706,385 +1664,6 @@ Page <a href="#Page_34">34</a>: Replaced the oe ligature with "oe" in the two in "Phoenix." </p> - - - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ULSTER *** - -***** This file should be named 42958-h.htm or 42958-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/9/5/42958/ - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at - www.gutenberg.org/license. - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 -North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email -contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the -Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - -</pre> - +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42958 ***</div> </body> </html> diff --git a/42958.zip b/42958.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index dc694a4..0000000 --- a/42958.zip +++ /dev/null |