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diff --git a/42955-0.txt b/42955-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8d166b --- /dev/null +++ b/42955-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4535 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42955 *** + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 42955-h.htm or 42955-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42955/42955-h/42955-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42955/42955-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive/American Libraries. See + http://archive.org/details/standardpaperbag00telfrich + + +Transcriber's note: + + This book was written long ago when safety standards were + much more fluid. Please do NOT try these at home, or anywhere + else. + + Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). + + Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). + + The reader is likely to be confused by the chapter numbering. + In the original book, the Table of Contents listed the Foreword + and Introduction as Chapter I, but in the text itself the + Foreward and Introduction has no chapter number, and chapter + numbering begins with What is Paper Bag Cookery? (Chapter + II in the Table of Contents but Chapter I in the text). The + confusion gets worse, because TWO chapters (Pastry and Short + Cakes) are numbered Chapter XXI in the text! After that the + numbers of the remaining chapters differ from the Table of + Contents by two. + + + + + +STANDARD PAPER-BAG COOKERY + +by + +EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD + +Adapted to the Needs of American Housewives + + Now good digestion wait on appetite, and health on both, + Macbeth III, 4. + + +STANDARD PAPER-BAG COOKERY + +by + +EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD + +Household Editor of _The Delineator_, _New Ideas_, and _The Designer_ + + + + + + + +New York +Cupples & Leon Company + +Copyright, 1912, by +Cupples & Leon Company + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + I. FOREWORD AND INTRODUCTION 7 + II. WHAT IS PAPER BAG COOKERY 9 + III. GENERAL DIRECTIONS 12 + IV. TIME TABLE 16 + V. APPETIZERS AND RELISHES 18 + VI. SOUP ACCESSORIES 23 + VII. SHELL FISH 25 + VIII. FISH 31 + IX. FISH SAUCE 42 + X. POULTRY AND GAME 47 + XI. BEEF 61 + XII. LAMB AND MUTTON 67 + XIII. PORK IN VARIED FORMS 70 + XIV. VEAL 74 + XV. SAUCES AND GRAVIES 78 + XVI. RECOOKED DISHES 83 + XVII. CHEESE AND EGG DISHES 87 + XVIII. VEGETABLES 90 + XIX. WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC. 101 + XX. CAKES 104 + XXI. FRUITS 112 + XXII. PASTRY 116 + XXIII. SHORT CAKES 123 + XXIV. PAPER BAG MENUS 133 + XXV. A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR BEGINNERS 145 + INDEX 147 + + + + +FOREWORD + + +IN giving this little book to the public, there has been in mind one +thing--practicability. + +The endeavor has been to make the directions for "Paper-bag Cookery" so +clear and concise that even the inexperienced housekeeper may not be +deterred from trying this new-old way of cooking foods delicately, +digestibly, economically. + +No one is advised to try dishes--as for instance soups, omelettes, +macaroni and kin,--and many desserts that may better be done by other +methods. + +Neither has the author called for strange and divers seasonings and +materials that are only to be found in the kitchens of the mighty and +their attendant chefs. + +For the very large family or boarding house, pots and pans need still be +called upon; but for the small family, for the woman who does her own +work and wishes to minimize labor, or for the epicurean but frugal +housewife who looks personally after the details of her own little +establishment, this paper-bag cookery is commended. If this little +volume points the easiest way for the preparation of nice dishes with a +modicum of labor and a saving of time and money, it is all that its +author and compiler asks. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +WHAT IS PAPER BAG COOKERY? + + +THE principles contained in Paper-bag Cookery are not new. Woodsmen and +hunters have known for ages that if they wanted fish or game done to a +turn, a jacket of clay outside the meat which was protected from soil by +leaves or corn husks, gave, on removing the clay case, the very +quintessence of delicate, savory cookery. + +Now within the last two years, a series of experiments has resulted in +the perfecting of a system of Paper-bag Cookery that revolutionizes the +old time kitchen drudgery with its unending round of greasy pots and +pans to be taken into account. + +The advantages of this method of cooking are manifold. They may be +epitomized thus: + +I. It makes food more savory and nutritious. + +II. It is sanitary. No dust can reach the article being cooked and, the +cooking accomplished, the bag can be thrown into the stove or kitchen +scrap basket with no temptation for a lazy maid to tuck away a greasy +pan in the dish closet for the delectation of "germs" or roaches. + +III. It is economical. Not only does it save the time and strength of +the housewife with no aftermath of dirty cooking dishes to be washed, +but it prevents the shrinkage of meats as caused by ordinary cookery. +Nothing is lost, because there is no evaporation; careful experiments +prove that the weight of the cooked food tallies almost exactly with the +weight of the raw. There is also a great saving of fuel, some claiming +as high as 40 per cent., owing to the less time required in Paper-bag +Cookery. While this may be a generous estimate it is certain that +Paper-bag Cookery takes on the average, one-third less time than other +cooking. + +IV. With ordinary care there is no danger of food burning, and no +deterioration in flavor if left in the bag some little time before +serving. + +V. It is odorless; a great thing, this, for the flat-dweller who has to +cook in restricted quarters, taking care always that cooking odors do +not permeate the house. + +VI. Its price is not prohibitive. Indeed, it is most reasonable. + +Paper-bag Cookery calls for no big outlay of money, no patent stove +oven, no complex apparatus or appliances. All that is necessary is an +oven of any sort--coal, gas, electric, wood or oil--a broiler, a paper +bag specially and sanitarily prepared,--grease proof and waterproof,--a +wood cookery dish if the food contains liquid or a number of separate +ingredients, and something to cook therein. Another convenience are the +wire clips for fastening the mouth and corners of the bag, which can be +purchased wherever the bags are sold. + + +THE KIND OF PAPER BAG TO USE. + +While a sheet of heavy foolscap paper made into a bag serves for the +cooking of a single chop--it is self-evident that for larger +proportions, larger bags and bags from strong, absolutely sanitary paper +must be used. While there are bags and bags now upon the market, not all +fulfill these essential conditions. After much experimenting, the +Continental Paper Bag Co., of Rumford, Maine, and New York City, has +succeeded in producing the ideal bag which may now be found in varying +sizes, at all the large house-furnishing stores, grocers, butchers, +etc., or the bags may be ordered direct from headquarters. These bags +are put up in bulk in bundle lots, or in sealed packages of assorted +sizes. Each of the sealed packages contains thirty bags of assorted +sizes with the necessary clips and a small book of recipes with full +directions. Retail price 25 cents a package--fifty packages to a +shipping bundle. + +In order to make paper bag cookery of the greatest value to housewives, +both as regards cleanliness and ease of operation, to say nothing of the +many cases where the flavor of the food is actually improved, the author +heartily recommends the use of specially prepared wood cookery dishes. +These dishes are most inexpensive, varying in price from about thirty +for ten cents to six for ten cents, depending upon size. They can be +purchased wherever the paper bags are sold,--department stores, house +furnishing stores, grocery stores, etc., etc., or may be obtained direct +from the Oval Wood Dish Company, Delta, Ohio. The food is placed in the +wood cookery dish and the dish is put into the bag. The advantage lies +in the fact that should the bag break, the food and juices are saved in +the dish and the oven will not be soiled by leakage. Then again, the +food can be removed from the bag when finished with greater ease than +when the dish is not used. The dishes are so cheap that they can be +thrown away with the bag after the food is prepared. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE BAG. + + +I. SELECT a bag that fits the food to be cooked. When a liquid is used +or a number of ingredients are to be cooked together, use a wood cookery +dish which holds the food stuffs together and permits their ready +removal from the bag. + +II. Brush over the outside of the bag with a little water to make it +pliable. Grease the inside except in the case of vegetables or when +water is added, using for this another little flat brush (kept for this +purpose) and pure vegetable oil, melted butter or drippings. Apply the +brush with a rotary motion greasing the bottom first and working toward +the top; or lay the bag flat on a table, reach inside and grease the +lower side of the bag, then press the other side against it until both +surfaces are evenly greased. The up-to-date housewife who is adopting +the paper-bag culinary cult has also discovered that for greasing the +bags, a necessary step, there is nothing that can take the place of the +high grade vegetable oils. They are easily applied and absolutely +tasteless and odorless, a great point, this, when the bags themselves +have sometimes been condemned as imparting a foreign odor to foods +cooked in them, when in reality it was the fault of the special fat with +which they were greased. Now place the bag flat on the table, seam side +up and lift the uppermost side while you insert the article to be +cooked. Press the air out of the bag, fold over the corners and make two +folds of the mouth of the bag, fastening firmly with three or four +clips, or even pins. No harm is done if the two lower corners of the bag +are folded and also fastened with one clip each. + +III. Now be sure the oven heat is right. If you are using gas for the +cooking, light for five minutes before the bag goes into the oven. The +average oven heat should be not less than 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and +may be 250 degrees. When the bag is put into the oven, the heat must be +at once reduced to 170 degrees. An inexperienced cook lacking an oven +thermometer can test the right degree of heat by placing a bit of paper +in the oven and noting the color it assumes. At the end of five minutes +it should be a light golden brown. + +If the heat is too intense the bag will burst. Now carefully lay the bag +on the grid shelves or wire broilers--never on solid shelves, being +careful to _place the seam side of the bag up_. + +This is imperative, as otherwise the juices of the food being cooked may +cause the seam to open, and distribute its contents over the oven. Once +placed in position, roasts and entrees on the lower shelf, about an inch +from the oven floor, fish on the middle shelf, and pastry on the top +where heat is most intense,--do not move or open the bags until the +schedule time of their cooking is accomplished. In placing the article +to be cooked, take care that the bag does not touch the sides of the +oven and that it is not too close to the flames. When the time limit of +cooking has expired, take up the bag from the shelf by drawing _with_ +the wires, not across them, which is apt to tear the bag made tender by +charring. Slip on to the lid of a pot or flat tin held just beneath the +grid and thence to the heated platter. To secure the gravy, stick a +pinhole in the bottom of the bag and allow it to drain on to the +platter, or serving dish. Rip open the bag from the top and throw the +charred fragments away at once. If to be served hot, arrange at once on +a heated platter or other dish, with its appropriate garnish. + + +POINTERS FOR PAPER BAG COOKERY. + +I. In the case of a coal-heated oven with solid shelves a wire broiler +or "grid" should be substituted as the heat must be allowed to circulate +on all sides of the bag. + +II. The size of the oven makes no difference but it _must be kept +clean_. + +III. In the case of a fowl or joint see that there are no rough edges or +bones protruding that will be likely to pierce the bag. + +IV. Do not season the article to be cooked too highly as none of the +seasonings are dissipated during the cooking as is usually the case in +ordinary boiling or roasting. + +V. For cooking fruit, grease the outside of the bag. + +VI. In removing the bag from the oven, draw with the wires, not across +them. + +VII. To brown things at the last of the cooking, if necessary, puncture +a few holes in the top of the bag. + +VIII. If a bag breaks in the cooking, as it sometimes will if the heat +is too intense, do not try to remove the article being cooked from the +bag, but slip the whole into a new well-greased bag. The use of two bags +is better than one when things require long cooking or for meats with +much fat or juicy dishes. While it may cost a bit more, it will save +much anxiety lest the bag burst. + +IX. To avoid having any chance drippings soil the oven floor, slip a +thin tin baking sheet or shallow dripper under the broiler, letting it +rest flat on the bottom of the oven. Put in a little hot water and this +steam will keep the bag moist and do much to discourage its breaking. +Indeed, in baking any kind of fruit cake, which requires slow cooking, +quite a little water in the drip-pan underneath is advisable. + +X. In baking pastry and cake, a few tiny holes should be made in the +upper side of the bag before putting in the oven. This will brown the +surface of the cake delicately. + +XI. Do not let the bag touch the sides of the oven or the gas flames. + +XII. Wire trivets such as are sold at house-furnishing stores for use in +cooling bread and cakes will be found a great convenience. If a bag is +laid on a trivet, it can then be easily set in the oven and as easily +lifted out when done. + +XIII. Never try to take things from the oven with the gas lighted. +Matches are cheaper than gas, if the oven has to be relighted, and +burned fingers or wrists are more costly than many matches. + +XIV. Use care in opening the oven. A draught from an open door or window +might cause the gas flame to ignite the bag. + +XV. Until taught by experience, follow the time table as given in the +cookery book. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +TIME TABLE. + +AS a general rule less time is required for Paper-bag Cookery than any +other way. While this approximate time table is at your service, +experience will enable you to modify the figures to suit your own stove +and your family's predilections as to having things rare or well done. + + +FISH. + + 1 lb. 15 minutes + 3 lbs. 30 minutes + 6 lbs. 50 minutes + + +ROASTS. + + Beef, 3 lbs. 45 minutes + Add 5 minutes for each additional pound. + Veal, 5 lbs. 1 hour and a half. + Add 7 minutes for each additional pound. + Pork, 3 lbs. 50 minutes + Add 6 minutes for each additional pound. + Mutton, leg 8 pounds An hour and a half + Mutton, shoulder 5 pounds 45 minutes + Mutton, chops 12 minutes + Mutton, cutlets 8 minutes + Lamb, leg 7 lbs. 1¾ hours. + Lamb, shoulder 50 minutes + Lamb, chops 10 minutes + Sausages 8 minutes + Sliced Bacon 6 minutes + + +POULTRY. + + Turkey (stuffed) 15 lbs. 2½ hours + Turkey (not stuffed) 15 lbs. 2 hours + Goose (ordinary size) 2 hours + Goose (green) 1½ hours + Duck (old) 1 hour + Duck (young) 35 minutes + Guinea, 6 lbs. 1 hour and 40 minutes + Chicken (large) 1 hour and a half + Chicken (young) 45 minutes + Quail and other small birds 15 minutes + Stews (meat) medium sized 1½ or two hours + Potatoes (Baked) 35 minutes + Sweet (ten minutes less than by the other methods of cookery). + + +TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS. + + 4 teaspoonfuls of liquid 1 tablespoonful + 4 tablespoonfuls of liquid ½ gill or ¼ cupful + 1 tablespoonful of liquid ½ ounce + 1 pint of liquid 1 pound + 2 gills of liquid 1 cupful or ½ pint + 1 kitchen cupful ½ pint + 1 quart sifted pastry flour 1 pound + 4 cupfuls sifted pastry flour 1 quart or 1 pound + 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour 1 ounce + 1 rounded tablespoonful granulated sugar 1 ounce + 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of ground spice 1 ounce + 1 heaping tablespoonful powdered sugar 1 ounce + 3 cupfuls cornmeal 1 pound + 1 cupful butter ½ pound + 1 pint butter 1 pound + 1 tablespoonful butter 1 ounce + Butter size of an egg 2 ounces + 10 eggs 1 pound + 1 solid pint chopped meat 1 pound + 2 cupfuls granulated sugar 1 pound + 1 pint brown sugar 7 ounces + 2½ cups powdered sugar 1 pound + 1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces + 1 cupful rice ½ pound + 1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces + 1 cupful cleaned and dried currants 6 ounces + 1 cupful grated bread crumbs 2 ounces + 8 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour 1 cupful + 8 rounded tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 cupful + 8 rounded tablespoonfuls of butter 1 cupful + 1 common tumbler 1 cupful + 3 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate 1 ounce + 4 gills 1 pint + 2 pints 1 quart + 4 quarts 1 gallon + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +APPETIZERS AND RELISHES. + + +APPETIZERS play a very important part now-a-days in all up-to-date +establishments and even in modest homes where they are not only employed +as introductory to the course dinner, but as a pleasing accessory to the +afternoon tea service. They are supposed to whet the appetite for the +heavier dishes that follow. In Europe one always finds them. They are +considered very "smart" and as they are but little trouble to prepare in +Paper bag cookery, when one has learned the trick, there is no reason +why the hostess who aims to keep abreast of the times should not make +frequent use of them. At very formal affairs, they are placed on the +service plates after the guests are seated, but usually they are at each +place when the meal is announced. Canapés (which means "toast cushions" +or bouchees, small patties or "bites") with their accompanying spread of +appetizing fish, cheese or potted meats, are newer than the cocktails of +oyster, clam or grape-fruit that used to lead the feast. + + +=Bouchee Cases.=--These are usually made from pastry by covering tiny +but deep patty pans with rich pastry, cutting narrow strips to make the +rim for the cup. Put on a tin in a buttered bag and bake. When cool they +will slip from the pan. They may be made the day before using if +preferred. + +Another way of preparing them is to cut good sized circles of bread; +then with a smaller cutter, scrape out a hollow, spread with butter, +put in the bag and bake ten minutes until browned. When ready to serve, +fill with any mixture desired and serve hot or cold as appetizers or +with the salad course. + +=Bonne Bouchee.=--Make the pastry cases and when ready to serve fill +with pate-de-foie gras, made soft with whipped cream, seasoned with +salt, cayenne or paprika. Decorate each one with an olive or bit of +aspic jelly. + +=Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise.=--Spread circles or +dominoes of bread with a thin layer of caviare. In the center place a +pitted olive, green or black, with its pit removed and the cavity filled +with minced red peppers. Hold the olive in place with a few drops of +mayonnaise, red or the usual yellow, and put tiny dots of the same about +the border. + +=Bouchees of Sardines.=--Pound one or two boned sardines in a mortar, +together with a small quantity of cheese. Season with salt, pepper and +chili vinegar, and add, if you like, a few chopped oysters. Spread this +mixture on circles of "bagged" bread about the size of a silver dollar, +and add a garnish of hard-boiled yoke of egg, rubbed through a sieve and +a little finely minced parsley. + +=Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue.=--Cover circles of "bagged" bread with +red stars cut from boiled tongue or the red imported sausages. Lay on +the top of each star, log cabin fashion, several tiny lengths of pickled +gherkins and crown with a sprig of watercress. + +=The Making of Canapés.=--Bread two days old is best for the foundation. +Trim free from crusts, then cut in uniform oblongs, diamonds, triangles, +circles or fingers as desired, using for this the cutters that come on +purpose. Butter lightly, spread with the prepared mixture and slip into +the well-greased paper-bag for five minutes just long enough to brown +the toast delicately and heat the savory. + +=Anchovy Canapés.=--Cut white bread in oblong strips, spread lightly +with butter, and anchovy paste, and tuck into the buttered bag. Bake +five minutes, then serve hot, adding, if liked, to each canapé two +strips of boneless anchovy laid across it diagonally and a squeeze of +lemon juice. + +=Caviare Canapés.=--Cut bread in circles and spread with a mixture of +three tablespoonfuls caviare paste, one teaspoonful lemon juice, one +half teaspoonful paprika, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half +cupful minced cress. Pop in the buttered bag and cook five minutes. + +=Hot Cheese Canapés.=--Take circles or strips of Vienna bread, spread +lightly with butter, grate a little cheese over them, sprinkle on top a +little cayenne pepper and salt and put in bag. Cook five minutes. + +=Cheese and Cracker Canapés.=--Split Boston crackers and soak ten +minutes in cold water. Lift out carefully and place on a well-buttered +baking tin. Drop on each a generous bit of butter, a sprinkling of +grated Parmesan or American cheese and a dusting of paprika. Put in the +bag, seal and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. + +=Cheese Toast Sandwiches.=--Cut slices of white bread rather thicker +than for sandwiches. Chop fine one cupful of American cheese and two +green peppers with the seeds removed. Season with salt and pepper and +work to a paste. Spread one slice of bread with butter and its mate with +creamed filling. Press firmly together, take off the crusts, and put +into the buttered bag. Bake five minutes and serve very hot. + +=Cracker Crisps.=--Dip oyster crackers or dinner biscuits in melted +butter, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and put in a paper bag. Bake ten +minutes. + +=Deviled Crackers.=--Mix three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, +one-fourth teaspoon of dry mustard, one teaspoon of anchovy paste, a +dash of cayenne and a pinch of butter. Spread over the crackers and put +in bag in a hot oven to brown. + +=Diables à Cheval.=--Have ready large French prunes that have been +soaked twenty-four hours in water, then cooked and the pits removed. +Insert almonds in the cavity left by the pit. Toss in olive oil or +refined cotton seed oil or roll in thin slices of bacon, fastened with a +tooth pick, put in the bag, seal and cook eight minutes. Serve piping +hot. + + + +NUT APPETIZERS. + +=Salted Almonds.=--Shell as many nice large nuts as desired. The Jordan +nuts are best, but the paper-shelled ones will answer. Put into a bowl +and cover with boiling water. Spread a towel over the bowl to retain the +steam and let them stand five minutes. Pour off the water and replace +with cold, then rub off the brown skins between thumb and forefinger. +Shake in a colander until dry, then put in a shallow dish adding for +each cupful of nuts, one tablespoonful melted butter, olive or refined +cotton seed oil (preferably either of the oils, which will give the +richer glaze). Stir well together. Let stand an hour, then put into the +well-greased paper bag, first sprinkling with dry salt, allowing one +tablespoonful to each cupful of nuts. Fasten and roast ten minutes, +shaking the bag occasionally. You can do this by the aid of two trivets. + +=Deviled Almonds.=--To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne pepper +with the salt. + +=Roasted Chestnuts.=--Make a cross on the shell of the nut using a sharp +penknife. Put in the oiled bag, dredge lightly with salt, and let cook +twenty minutes giving an occasional shake. + +=Salted Chestnuts.=--Throw into boiling water as many shelled nuts as +desired. Blanch and dry, patting with a soft towel. Then add olive oil +or melted butter to the nuts, allowing a teaspoonful to each cup of nuts +and let them remain in oil half an hour. Dredge with salt, a heaping +teaspoonful to each cup, then put in oiled bag and let them brown in the +oven from 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the bag frequently to keep them from +scorching and make them an even brown. These should be crisp and +delicate. To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne with the salt. Serve +at dinner after the cheese. + +=Deviled Chestnuts.=--Shell and blanch a quart of chestnuts. Dry +thoroughly, then brown in paper bag in hot olive oil or butter. Have +ready a mixture composed of two tablespoonfuls of chopped mixed pickle, +one tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, one quarter teaspoonful salt and +a dash of cayenne. Turn this over the hot nuts, and serve at once. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SOUP ACCESSORIES. + + +=Bread Sticks.=--IN preparing these, any bread dough may be used, though +that with shortening is preferred. After it is kneaded enough to be +elastic, cut into pieces half the size of an egg, then roll on the +molding board into a stick the size of a pencil and about a foot long. +Lay these strips in the well-greased paper bag, let them rise a little +before putting in the oven, then fasten the bag and bake with a moderate +heat, so they will dry without much browning. + +=Croutons Toasted.=--Slice bread that is stale but not too dry, into +pieces about half an inch thick, cut these slices in uniform cubes and +put in a well-greased bag. Shake occasionally and let toast for ten +minutes. + +=Crisped Crackers.=--Split butter crackers and spread with butter. Put +into the paper bag buttered side up and bake ten minutes. These are +delicious with vegetable soups and in fish chowder and oyster stew. + +=Egg Balls.=--Drop the yolk of four eggs into a cup and set in a pan of +water over the fire. When the yolks are cooked hard and mealy, pound to +a paste and season with an even teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne +or a more liberal sprinkling of paprika. Mould into balls the size of +grapes, by mixing the yolk of a raw egg with the cooked paste, rolling +lightly in the white of an egg, then in flour. Tuck into a small +buttered bag, fasten, and set in oven for five minutes to become firm. + +=Forcemeat Balls or Quenelles.=--Chop very fine any cold meat you have +on hand, and season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a little +onion juice. For one cupful of the prepared meat, beat one egg until +light, stir in with hashed meat and add just enough flour to make +cohesive. Roll in the hands to the size of hickory nuts, put in paper +bag and cook ten minutes. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +SHELL FISH. + + +FISH and the paper bag method of cooking, go hand and glove. The thing +that every housewife hates most, particularly in a small apartment, or +in the Winter when it is difficult to get the house thoroughly aired, is +the pervasive odor that announces to every one in the house or block +just what you are going to have for dinner. Bagged, the odor is so +minimized as to be entirely inoffensive. Ten minutes airing after the +bag is opened will be quite sufficient to dissipate every particle of +odor. Furthermore, the fish itself is much more delicate and digestible +with all the flavor of fish and seasoning held in and united in a +harmonious whole. Of course, this presupposes a fresh fish to start +with, or one just out of cold storage, before it has had a chance to +thaw and develope ptomaines. In buying fish, look at the eyes and flesh. +Fish should be firm to the touch. If pressed by the finger the flesh +should rise instantly. There should be no impression left. If fish is +fresh the eyes are bright and the gills red and the scales not easily +rubbed off. Never lay fish directly on artificial ice, say the +fishermen, as the ammonia used in the freezing affects them injuriously. +Shell fish are not so apt to spoil as the other fish. + +The wood cookery dishes will be found of great value in cooking all +kinds of fish in paper bags. In many cases the flavor of the fish is +improved and the fish can always be taken from the bag with ease and +served whole if desired. + +=Clam Pies.=--Line little tins or moulds with paste and put in a layer +of raw clams with a seasoning of butter and pepper. Dredge with flour, +add a spoonful or two of clam juice, cover with the paste, cut a hole in +the top, brush with beaten egg, slip into the bag, fasten and bake +twenty minutes. + +=Roast Clams.=--Scrub the shells clean and slip in the bag. As soon as +the shells open, remove carefully and pour off the extra liquor in as +many small cups as you have persons to serve. Put a cup of the juice to +which a bit of butter and dusting of pepper has been added, in the +center of a soup dish, and arrange the clams around it. With an oyster +fork, the clams may then be removed from the shell, dipped into the +liquor and eaten. Serve very hot with quarters of lemon. + +=Crabs, Soft and Hard.=--While soft shell crabs are too expensive for +the purse of moderate depth, the hard shell crustacean is always in +order and greatly to be desired. Crabs, like all other shell fish, are +best when fresh from their native waters, and the individual who can do +his own crabbing and then eat the fruits of his labor with the flavor of +the sea still with them, has nothing more to be desired from a +gastronomic standpoint. In most markets crabs may be found both alive +and boiled. If alive, keep them in cold water until ready to cook. If +already boiled, use them as soon as possible as they do not keep well +for more than twenty-four hours. When ready to cook live crabs, take up +on a skimmer, handling gingerly so as to avoid a pinch, and drop into a +large kettle of boiling salted water. Cook gently fifteen minutes, or +until a bright red, skim out, and cool, twist off the claws, remove the +upper shell from the under, scrape the spongy portions from the sides, +remove the green portion and wash free from sand. Crack the large claws +and remove the meat. If you are to serve the crab meat in the shells, +wash and dry as many of the upper ones as desired. These preliminaries +attended to, the crabs are ready to use, in any one of a dozen different +ways. + +=Creamed Crabs.=--Remove the meat from a half dozen hard-shelled crabs. +Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter and a tablespoonful of finely chopped +onion until yellow, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour in +gradually a cup of cream. As soon as blended and smooth, add the crab +meat, salt and paprika to season, a tiny grating of nutmeg and a +tablespoonful of sherry wine. Spread on slices of toast, grate a little +cheese on top, put into a bag, seal, set in the oven a moment to heat +through, then serve. + +=Crabs Deviled à la William Penn.=--Boil hard-shelled crabs, then remove +the under part without breaking the upper shell. Take out the crab meat, +add about half the quantity of bread crumbs and some chopped hard boiled +eggs, with salt, cayenne and lemon juice to season. Form into a paste +with a little melted butter and fill the shells. Sift buttered crumbs +over the top, slip in the bag and cook ten minutes in a hot oven. + +=Crab Meat au Gratin.=--Mix the meat from six crabs with a third the +amount finely chopped, sweet, green peppers. Add the yolks of two eggs +beaten with a half cup cream and a little sherry, and toss in a saucepan +until hot and creamy. Put the mixture into the cleaned crab shells or +the little brown ramequins, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and fine +crumbs; put in bag and crisp in a hot oven. + +=Crab Flakes au Gratin.=--Add to one pint crab flakes, one-half cupful +cream sauce, two tablespoonfuls melted butter and a quarter teaspoonful +paprika. Mix well together, place in a small wood cookery dish or +ramequins, sprinkle the top with toast crumbs and a light sprinkling of +Roman cheese. Put into bags, bake and serve. If any be left over, it +makes a delicious salad served on lettuce with mayonnaise. + +=Lobster Chops.=--Put into a saucepan a heaping tablespoonful of butter +and two very heaping ones of flour. As soon as melted and frothed, add +one cupful of hot milk or cream, and stir until the mixture is smooth +and thick. Season with salt and paprika, take from the fire, add two +cups of the lobster, cut fine, mix well and turn on to a platter to get +as cold as possible. When cold and firm, form into balls, then flatten +into chops, roll in egg, then in cracker crumbs and set away on the ice +until ready to cook. Put in buttered paper bag and cook ten minutes. +When ready to serve, tuck one of the little claws in the small end to +simulate a chop bone and garnish with lemon and parsley. For Sunday +night supper these chops may be cooked early in the day, then simply +re-bagged and heated in the oven for the meal. + +=Coquilles of Lobster.=--Cook two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion +in a tablespoonful butter for fifteen minutes. Have ready a cream sauce +made by melting together over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter +and flour, then thinning with a cupful of white stock that has been +cooked with a small bouquet of sweet herbs. Salt and pepper to taste, +and if you like add half a cupful chopped mushrooms and their liquor. +Add to the lightly browned onions two cupfuls finely cut lobster meat, a +tablespoonful minced parsley, one cupful of the made sauce and salt and +paprika. Cook together ten minutes, then put the mixture into the +shells, pour a little of the sauce over each, sprinkle with buttered +bread crumbs, bag, and bake about ten minutes or until they are browned. + +=Lobster in Shells.=--Cut the meat from two cans of lobster into small +pieces. Sprinkle a few bread crumbs and a little salt and pepper over +it. Then put in shells. On each shell put a good sized lump of butter, +two teaspoonfuls of wine, some more salt and pepper and some more bread +crumbs. Put prepared shells in a paper bag, put in a hot oven and cook +ten minutes. + +=Mussels au Gratin.=--Remove and clean the mussels, straining all the +liquor thoroughly. Then make this sauce: Fry two tablespoonfuls of +chopped onions in butter for a few minutes, but do not let them brown; +add about a teaspoonful of flour, and, while the onions are blending, +add the liquor of the mussels, stirring it in slowly. Cook this mixture +for a few minutes; then add a tablespoonful of vinegar, the same +quantity of chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Butter a +shallow earthen or wooden baking dish; in the bottom spread a layer of +the sauce, lay the mussels on top of it and cover them with the balance +of the sauce. Over all this spread a thin coating of breadcrumbs; butter +and bake in bag until they have browned. Serve in the same dish in which +they were baked. + +=Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style).=--Take crusty rolls, cut off the top +and scoop out the hearts leaving them each like a box. Fill the space +with oysters, seasoning with salt, pepper and butter and sprinkling over +them some of the crumb of the roll that you have removed. Put bits of +butter on top, then replace the cover. Set the rolls in the buttered bag +and pour the strained oyster liquor over them. Put into a hot oven and +bake for fifteen minutes. Serve hot. Lemon juice or a little mace is +sometimes used for seasoning the oysters. + +=Spindled Oysters and Bacon.=--For two dozen large oysters have two +dozen thin slices bacon, and a half dozen slices crisp toast. Have ready +a half dozen slender steel skewers. Fill these skewers with alternate +slices of bacon and oysters, running the skewer crosswise through the +eye of the oyster and threading the bacon by one corner, so that each +slice blankets an oyster. Do not crowd. Lay the skewers in a buttered +bag, and cook in a quick oven ten minutes. Lay each spindle with its +contents undisturbed on a slice of toast, pour the drip from the bag +over them and serve at once. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +FISH. + + +=Filet of Bass.=--WASH and wipe the filets dry with a clean towel, +trimming away the fins with a pair of large scissors close to the filet. +Dust with salt and lay in a covered dish with a minced onion, the juice +of half a lemon and a bit of finely cut parsley and thyme. Let them +stand half an hour. Twenty minutes before serving wipe dry again, dust +lightly with flour, dip in well-beaten egg, then roll in fine bread +crumbs. When all are prepared, put in greased bag and cook twenty +minutes until a delicate brown. Arrange on a warm dish and serve with +parsley and lemon or sauce tartare. Filets of sole may be cooked in the +same way. + +=Baked Blue Fish.=--Clean thoroughly, cut off head and tail and fill +with a soft bread stuffing. Tie up securely, rub over the outside of the +fish with sweet vegetable oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a +squeeze of lemon juice and slip into the greased bag. Seal and cook from +twenty to forty minutes according to weight. Serve with sliced lemon +rolled in fine cut parsley. + +=A Breakfast Dish of Bloaters.=--Few people know how very nice smoked +and dried fish can be when cooked in a paper bag and seasoned in the +French fashion. Cut off the head and tail of the fish, loosen the skin +at the neck with a knife and holding it firmly between the knife and +finger, pull it off. Split the fish with a sharp knife, remove the +backbone and soak in cold water over night, or if you forget to do that, +for twenty minutes in water nearly at the boiling point. Arrange the +filets in a wooden baking dish, cover with milk, dot with bits of +butter, put in bag and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Garnish +with a little finely chopped parsley or sprigs of water cress and serve +with paper-bag baked potatoes. On a cool morning there are few more +appetizing breakfast dishes, while its cheapness puts it within the +reach of the most impecunious. For a change the filets may be baked in +buttered paper cases or cooked au gratin still in paper bags. + +=Cat Fish.=--For the small sized cat fish--clean, wash, dry well, salt +and pepper inside and out, then grease well with butter or vegetable oil +and roll in fine, sifted bread crumbs or corn meal. Lay in a +well-greased bag on thin sliced bacon, put a few more slices of bacon on +top. Seal and cook half an hour. + +=Codfish Cones.=--"Pick up" enough salt codfish to make two cupfuls of +the shreds. Cover with cold water and let stand for two hours, then +drain, make a cream sauce, using two level tablespoonfuls each butter +and flour, and one cupful of hot milk. Mash and season enough hot boiled +potatoes to measure two cupfuls, add sauce and fish and beat well with a +fork. Shape in small cones, brush with melted butter, dredge with fine +bread crumbs and put in a paper bag. Cook ten minutes. If desired some +thin slices of bacon can be cooked at the same time in a separate bag +and be used as a garnish for the cones. + +=Codfish à la Crême.=--Cook the fish first in boiling salted water which +has been very slightly acidulated with vinegar. Let it cook until the +flesh separates from the bones. After draining thoroughly and removing +the skin and bones, break the flesh into large flakes. Pour a highly +seasoned white sauce over it. It may now be cooked in a wooden baking +dish in the bag, or it may be prepared as follows: Press it into the +form of an oblong mould, using only just enough sauce to hold the flakes +together. Not as much sauce is needed as when the fish is browned in a +baking dish. Brush the top liberally with melted butter, sprinkle with +rolled cracker crumbs. Put the mold in a paper bag in the oven, and let +the fish acquire a nutty, crisp crust. Send to the table garnished with +lemon and parsley or thin slices of tomato and a few sprays of water +cress. + +=Paper Bagged Eels.=--Eels may be cooked in a paper bag without growing +as hard as they are apt to do as ordinarily treated. Allow one-half +pound of eels (after they are dressed) to a person. Wash them +thoroughly, removing all blood from slit in eels. Cut in two-inch +pieces, put in a dish and sprinkle a teaspoonful of salt to every pound +over them. Now pour over them boiling water, enough to cover well, and +let stand until water is cold. Pour water off and leave eels where they +will drain until nearly dry. Take sufficient Indian meal to roll them +in, add a little pepper to it and roll each piece until well covered. +Place in a well-greased bag and cook about twenty minutes, when they +will be a rich brown, thoroughly cooked and deliciously juicy. + +=Flounder à la Meuniére.=--Chop a small shallot and mix with a +teaspoonful of anchovy paste, a squeeze of lemon juice, an ounce of +butter, a little chopped parsley, a dash of cayenne, salt and pepper to +taste. Put the fish with the seasoning inside of a well-buttered bag, +after dredging the fish with flour. Pour a tablespoonful of melted +butter over the fish, seal up and cook. A two-pound fish, whole, +requires thirty minutes. The same weight of filets cook in eight +minutes. + +=Filets of Flounder.=--Remove the filets from a medium sized flounder +and cut each filet in two. Season with salt and pepper and a few drops +of lemon juice and fold each filet in two or roll up skin side inwards. +Put a small piece of butter, or a teaspoonful of vegetable oil on top of +each and place carefully in the well-greased bag. Seal the mouth of the +bag, and cook about ten minutes on the wire grid in a hot oven. + +Remove from the bag, lift carefully on to a hot platter, garnish with +water cress or parslied lemon slices and serve. + +=Finnan Haddie.=--Pick out a fish that is thick through the centre, +weighing about two pounds. Soak in cold water, after washing well, for +an hour. Brush all over with melted butter, dredge with flour, put in a +well-buttered bag, skin side down, dot with butter and pour over it a +cup of hot milk. Seal securely and bake in a very hot oven twenty +minutes. The fish may be served whole, or flaked--free from bones and +skin--and served with cream sauce. + +=Finnan Haddie.=--Prepare in the regular way, lay in wood cookery dish, +skin side down, season with bits of butter, add a small cupful of warm +milk, put in bag and seal. Bake twenty-five minutes and serve from the +dish with cream sauce. This eliminates the washing of dishes with the +strong fishy odor. + +=Fish Cakes.=--Use for this two cupfuls cold fish freed from skin and +bones and chopped fine, and the same amount of cooked, seasoned and +mashed potatoes. Mix well, season with salt and pepper, add two +tablespoonfuls vegetable oil or melted butter and two tablespoonfuls of +milk. Whip the mixture until as "light as feathers." Shape into small, +flat cakes of even size. Beat up an egg on a plate, then egg the cakes +and roll deftly in the finest of sifted bread crumbs and again shape. +Put in well-greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven. Cook about twenty +minutes. + +=New England Fish Pie.=--Have a pound of cod steak boned and cut in +pieces. Roll each piece in slightly salted flour, and season with +paprika or white pepper. Lay in the well-greased bag and put on top of +the fish a layer of oysters with their juice and a squeeze of lemon +juice. Sprinkle with a layer of finely rolled and buttered cracker +crumbs, dot with a few bits of butter, seal the bag and bake slowly +fifteen minutes. Have ready some hot mashed potato well seasoned with +cream and butter. Take the grid and bag from the oven, tear off the top +of the bag, spread the potato over the fish like a crust, brush over +with a little milk mixed with a portion of an egg yolk and set back in +oven for five minutes to brown and glaze, turning the grid with the bag +twice during the cooking. Cut open the bag, put the fish balls on a hot +platter, garnish and serve plain with a tomato sauce. + +=Fish Soufflé.=--One pint of boiled halibut or other delicate fish, +freed from bones and skin and mashed to a pulp. Season with one small +teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and one teaspoonful of onion +juice. Melt a large tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and cook in +it for three minutes a tablespoonful of flour. Add slowly a cupful of +milk and the seasoned fish pulp. Beat two eggs thoroughly and add the +fish to them. Pour all into bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a +moderate oven, half an hour. + +=Planked Fish Bag-Cooked.=--Planked fish responds beautifully to the +paper-bag treatment, and there is no better way of developing the +distinctive flavor of any of the delicate white-meated fish. The plank +however should not be as thick as that usually required. It must be of +hard-wood, hickory, cherry, live oak, cedar or ash--well seasoned and +sawed about a half inch in thickness, rounded and tapered at one end +like an ironing board. This to accommodate the tail of the fish. If +cooking small fish use the oval wood cooking dishes made of maple wood. + +Make it very hot in the oven or under the gas flame, then grease well +with vegetable oil, olive or the refined cotton seed, and lay on it the +fish cleaned, split down the back, seasoned, oiled all over with the +sweetest of vegetable oils or butter and spread out as flat as possible +with the skin side next to the hot board. Slip into the greased bag and +fasten tightly. If you use the gas oven for planking your fish, as most +of us do, turn on both burners until the oven is very hot. Then set in +the fish with a trivet under the bag the same as if you were cooking +without the plank. + +Bake from thirty to forty-five minutes, then serve piping hot on the +plank which has been taken out of the bag, set on a big japanned tray +and garnished with hot mashed potato pressed through a tube in rose +fashion at regular intervals, alternating with mounds of peas or carrot +dice, sprigs of watercress or parsley and thin slices of lemon rolled in +fine minced parsley. Accompany with sauce tartare or parsley butter. + +=Halibut à la Poulette.=--Take two pounds of halibut, arrange in +filets, freeing from skin and bone; then cut into narrow strips. Season +with salt, pepper and lemon juice; cut two onions in slices and lay on +the filets, then set away for half an hour. At the end of this time have +ready one-third cup melted butter or refined vegetable oil. Dip the +filets in this, roll, skewer into shape and dredge with flour. Arrange +in a well-buttered bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. +Serve with white sauce and two hard boiled eggs, sliced for a garnish. + +=Herring au Gratin.=--Soak and filet the herring. Butter a bag and strew +the bottom with the bread crumbs well-buttered, a layer of grated cheese +and a little minced chives or parsley. Sprinkle with pepper and lay in +the filets of herring, plain or alternately with sliced tomato. Cover +with more crumbs, parsley, cheese and butter, close the bag, and bake +fifteen minutes until a good brown. + +=Herrings With Herbs.=--Take four dried herrings, bone them, fill the +cavities with a little (about half a teaspoonful to each fish) finely +minced shallot or chives, and parsley. Add a few fresh breadcrumbs and +tiny bits of butter. If liked, a tiny grate of nutmeg may be added as +well as a good dust of pepper. Put into a well-greased bag and bake in +the oven for ten minutes. Dish up and serve as hot as possible. Other +dried fish are excellent prepared in the same way. + +=Kedgeree.=--Mix one cup of shredded fish with one cupful of boiled +rice, tender and well drained. Put into a well-buttered wooden baking +dish, while you prepare the sauce. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful +each of butter and flour and as soon as melted and "bubbly," add one cup +of hot milk. Stir until smooth and thick, season with salt and pepper, +take from the fire, add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, that have +been rubbed through a sieve, pour over the rice and fish. Put the dish +in a well-buttered bag and set in the oven until thoroughly hot and +delicately browned. + +=Kippered Mackerel With Fine Herbs.=--Cut salt mackerel into filets, lay +them in a deep earthen dish and cover with boiling water. Leave in water +half a minute. Take out, wipe dry, dust with coarse black pepper and put +on top of each filet half a teaspoonful of minced parsley and chives or +onion and a bit of butter the size of a small walnut. Grease a bag well, +put in the filets; seal and cook for twenty minutes in a hot oven. Serve +hot, with brown bread and butter. + +=Salmon Loaf.=--Mince one can of salmon, removing all bits of bone. Add +to it a cupful fine, stale bread crumbs, two beaten eggs, a half cupful +milk and salt, pepper, parsley and lemon juice to season. Put in a +wooden mould in a buttered bag and bake or steam for half an hour. Turn +out and serve hot with a white or Hollandaise sauce. + +=Scalloped Salmon.=--Put a layer of soft grated bread crumbs in the +bottom of a wooden baking dish that has been well-buttered. Sprinkle the +bread crumbs with salt, pepper and bits of butter. Cover with a layer of +flaked salmon, seasoning with salt and pepper and pouring in some of the +oil and liquor from the can. Over this spread another layer of the +seasoned crumbs, then more salmon and so on until the dish is filled. +Let the last layer be of buttered crumbs moistening slightly with a +little milk. Spread a little soft butter over the surface and bake in a +buttered bag for half an hour in a hot oven to a rich brown. + +=Salmon Soufflé.=--Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and +melt without browning. Add one tablespoonful of flour, stir until +blended, then pour in one cup of warm milk. When thickened and smooth, +add the yolk of one egg, one cup of salmon flaked, a tablespoonful of +cream and a tiny bit of essence of anchovy and pepper to season. Mix +carefully and well, fold in the white of one egg beaten until stiff and +dry; then fill ramekins or wooden dish three-quarters full. Put in a bag +and brown in a quick oven. Serve very hot. Chopped parsley may be added +if desired. + +=Baked Shad.=--In dressing the fish, cut as small an opening as +possible. Wash well, dry and fill with a dressing made in this way. Pour +over one cupful dry bread crumbs enough cold water or milk to moisten. +Add a teaspoonful melted butter, and a teaspoonful minced parsley. Mix +thoroughly and fill the fish, sewing or skewering the opening together. +Use a wood cookery dish and put into a buttered bag two or three slices +of wafer-thin salt pork and having salted and peppered the outside of +the fish lay carefully on top the sliced pork. Lay as many more thin +slices on top of the fish, or wipe over with olive oil. Seal, set in the +oven and bake three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Serve with +sauce tartare or a good brown sauce enriched with a small glass of +Madeira. + +=Shad Roe.=--As soon as the fish comes from the water or market, plunge +the roe into boiling salted water to which a tablespoonful of lemon +juice or vinegar has been added. Cook gently about ten minutes, lift out +with a skimmer and slip into a bowl of ice water to become firm. When +ready to cook, split lengthwise if plump and full, brush over with olive +oil, melted butter or refined cotton seed oil, and tuck at once into +the well-greased bag. Some cooks prefer to dust the roe with fine bread +crumbs, lay into beaten egg, then dust once more with sifted crumbs +before "bagging". Serve simply with lemon and cress, with sauce tartare +or mayonnaise, or with a sauce prepared as follows: Put into a saucepan +two tablespoonfuls butter or olive oil, one tablespoonful lemon juice, +and chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. Heat to the +boiling point and pour over the roe. + +=Smelts.=--Smelts skewered in rings, using a wooden toothpick to hold +heads and tails together, dipped in milk, well floured and fried in deep +fat, make an attractive fish course. The use of a wood cookery dish here +is strongly recommended. The skewer can be removed before serving, as +the fish will usually keep its shape. Garnish the plate on which the +fish are served with cress and slices of lemon rolled in finely minced +parsley. If the smelts are to furnish the main part of the meal, pile +them in the center of a hot platter and surround with a border of mashed +potato, or mound the potato and circle with the fish for a border. + +=Bagged Weak Fish.=--Well grease a bag, with butter or vegetable oil. +Prepare a weak fish as for frying by seasoning with salt, pepper and +dredging well with flour. Rub melted butter on both sides, place it in +the bag, skin side down, lightly dredge the upper side again with flour +and dot with butter. Peel and cut an onion in half, put in the bag but +not on the fish. Close the bag, seal and cook on the wire rack or +broiler in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. + +=White Fish Planked.=--Remove the head and tail and bone of the fish. +Wash carefully and place in wooden cookery dish, skin side down. Season +with salt, pepper, bits of butter and chopped onion. Roll a half dozen +oysters in cracker crumbs, place on top of fish, and put the dish in the +bag. Bake forty minutes. Set the wooden dish on a hot platter and serve. +The skin of the fish and remnants can be left in the dish which can then +be thrown away. Halibut and mackerel are especially fine when prepared +in these wood cookery dishes as it holds them intact in process of +cooking and serving. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +FISH SAUCE. + + +=Anchovy Sauce.=--POUND three anchovies smooth with three spoonfuls of +butter, add two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a quarter of a cupful of +water. Bring to the boil and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour +rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Strain through a sieve and serve +hot. + +=Quick Bearnaise Sauce.=--Beat the yolks of four eggs with four +tablespoonfuls of oil and four of water. Add a cupful of boiling water +and cook slowly until thick and smooth. Take from the fire and add +minced onion, capers, olives, pickles and parsley and a little tarragon +vinegar. + +=Bearnaise Sauce.=--This calls for four small, chopped shallots, one +branch of chopped tarragon, two tablespoonfuls of wine vinegar, two raw +egg yolks, two and a half ounces of hot melted butter, half a +teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of pepper. Put the +shallots, vinegar, tarragon and pepper in a saucepan and let it stand on +a slow fire until its contents are reduced to one-half their original +quantity. Squeeze the mixture through a cloth into another saucepan. Add +the egg yolks and beat the mixture four minutes without allowing it to +boil. Then add the melted butter very gradually, still keeping the pan +where there is no danger of boiling. Season with a saltspoonful of salt +and a half saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. It is well to make the last +an extremely scanty portion, as more may be added if desired, but none +can be removed. Stir all again quite thoroughly for a minute. Add the +parsley and serve. + +=Brown Sauce.=--Brown two tablespoonfuls of flour in butter. Add two +cupfuls of milk or cream and cook until thick, stirring constantly. + +=Curry Sauce.=--Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in butter and add a +tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a teaspoonful of curry powder. Mix +thoroughly, add one cupful of cold water, and cook until thick, stirring +constantly. Take from the fire, season with salt and onion juice and +serve hot. + +=Egg Sauce.=--Mix a half cup of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, and a +cupful of boiling water and set the sauce pan on the stove. Stir until +thickened, seasoning with salt and pepper. Add two hard boiled eggs, +chopped fine, and serve. + +=Sauce Hollandaise.=--This is really a warm mayonnaise, using butter +instead of vegetable oil. It is the best sauce for serving with salmon +or other boiled fish if you desire it hot. It requires a quarter pound +butter, half a lemon, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt and a half +teaspoonful white pepper. The secret of its successful making is to +preserve an even temperature. The sauce should not approach the boiling +point, as the eggs would cook and the sauce curdle. Put the eggs in a +small saucepan and add the butter, gradually stirring constantly with a +wooden spoon. It will soon thicken like a mayonnaise. When the butter is +all in, add salt and pepper and lastly the lemon juice, stirring until +well mixed. If the sauce becomes thick, add a little stock or hot +water. Surround the fish with parsley and slices of lemon and serve the +sauce in a bowl. A few sliced cucumbers should be served with fish. + +=Egg Sauce Made From the Hollandaise.=--Egg sauce may be made from the +Hollandaise by sprinkling with two finely chopped hard boiled eggs and a +teaspoonful of parsley. + +=Lobster Sauce.=--This is delicious with any white fleshed fish. Its +foundation is Hollandaise sauce, which is also the foundation of most of +the fish sauces. To make it, stir together one tablespoonful of butter, +a few drops of onion juice, a bit of bay leaf (not too much), pepper to +season, and the juice of a half lemon. Add a half cup of white stock or +hot water and set the bowl containing the mixture in a pan of hot water +and stir until the butter melts. As soon as very hot, take from the fire +and stir a little of the mixture in the well-beaten yolks of one and +one-half eggs, then add the rest of the sauce and return to the fire. +Stir constantly for five minutes or until thickened. Add a teaspoonful +of butter, half the pounded coral of a lobster and a tablespoonful of +chopped lobster meat. + +=Maitre d'Hotel Butter.=--This is perhaps the simplest and best sauce to +serve on fried or broiled fish. To make it, beat a heaping tablespoonful +of butter to a cream in a warm bowl; add the juice of a lemon, a half +teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of minced parsley. A grating of +nutmeg or bit of chives is sometimes added. If placed on the ice this +can be kept on hand a week or more. It is also excellent spread over a +juicy steak. + +=Sauce for Broiled Shad à la Murray.=--Fry the milts, and while hot mash +with butter, a tablespoonful minced parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon +juice. Season lightly with salt and pepper and spread over the fish when +removed from the bag. Set in the oven one moment, then serve. + +=Parsley Butter.=--To make this delectable fish sauce, mix one ounce +fresh butter with a teaspoonful each chopped parsley and lemon juice, +half teaspoonful chopped mixed tarragon and cress or chervil and salt +and pepper to season. Spread on a plate, set on the ice until cold then +shape into pats. This is nice with any fish. + +=Sauce Tartare.=--This is one of the standbys that no housekeeper liable +to the unexpected appearance of guests should be without. It can be used +in an emergency for so many different things. It is delicious with fish, +cold or hot, broiled or deviled chicken, tongue, beef, cauliflower or +potato salad. It is easy to make, the only essentials being good +materials, everything cold, and the oil added very slowly at first. +After that it may be poured in in larger quantities and more frequently. +Mix in a small bowl one half teaspoonful dry mustard, the same amount +each powdered sugar and salt, and a quarter teaspoonful cayenne. Add the +yolks of two fresh eggs, and stir. Measure out a cupful of olive oil and +add a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If it begins to +thicken too much to stir easily, thin with a little lemon juice, adding +oil and lemon alternately until you have used all the oil and two +tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Lastly beat in two tablespoonfuls of +tarragon or other vinegar. This gives the regular mayonnaise, which +should be smooth and thick. Now to make it into sauce tartare, add one +teaspoonful finely chopped onion or onion juice, a tablespoonful of +chopped pickle, capers, olives and parsley, in any proportion desired. +You may use simply the sour cucumber pickle or part pickle and olives, +capers, etc. This may be kept for a number of days in cold weather by +keeping in glass and in a cool place. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +POULTRY AND GAME. + + +=Capon.=--CAPON is the best of all poultry, having been specially +treated and fattened for the table. They can be distinguished in the +market by the head, tail and wing feathers being left intact. They are +always high in price and considered great luxuries. They are cooked the +same as chicken. If to be stuffed, choose a delicate dressing like +oysters or chestnuts. Cut the neck off short and remove the oil bag from +the root of the tail. Singe carefully, pluck out every lingering pin +feather, wash quickly with a rough, clean cloth and warm--not +hot--water; dash cold water over it, let drain, then wipe carefully with +a soft, damp cloth inside and out. Salt lightly inside and dust with +pepper, stuff with whatever dressing you elect to have, truss, fasten +thin slices of bacon or salt pork over the breast and thighs, grease the +entire body liberally with soft butter or vegetable oils, put into a +loose fitting well-greased bag, breast down, seal, lay on a trivet, set +on broiler in hot oven, let cook till bag corners turn very brown, then +slack heat one-half, or even a little more if the heat is fierce, and +cook from an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters. The capon +should be a golden brown all over, except on the back where it touches +the bag and underneath the bacon slices. But it will be as well done +everywhere as in the brown part. Cook the liver, gizzard and neck in a +small separate bag, wrapping each in a slice of bacon and seasoning +them with salt and pepper. Add a very little water, seal and put on to +cook less than an hour before dinner time. The slow heat will make them +very tender. Cooked with capon, they would be overdone. Serve with sweet +potatoes Southern style, or baked apples slightly sweetened. + +=Chicken with Parsnips.=--Wash, parboil and scrape a quart of tender +parsnips. Split a Spring chicken down the back and lay in a buttered +bag, skin side up. Arrange the sliced parsnips around the chicken, +sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot with bits of butter until a half cup +has been used, and top with two or three thin slices of fat, salt pork. +Put a half cup hot water in the bag and bake to a delicate brown. Put +the chicken on a hot platter and arrange the parsnips around it. Make a +cream gravy from the drippings in the bag and serve with mashed +potatoes, currant jelly and beet greens. + +=Chicken à la Baltimore.=--Take two small Spring chickens, prepare as +for broiling, but cut into joints. Wipe dry, season well with salt and +pepper, dip into beaten egg, then cover well with bread crumbs. Place in +a well-buttered bag, pour a little melted butter or oil over them and +bake in the oven twenty or twenty-five minutes. Serve with cream sauce +and garnish with thin, crisped slices of bacon and tiny corn oysters. + +=Chicken Croquettes.=--This may be made from left-over cooked chicken or +from canned chicken. For a dozen croquettes allow one cupful of solid +meat chopped fine, a cupful of cream sauce, made by cooking together +four tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour, then stirring in a scant +cupful of hot milk and cooking until smooth and thick. Combine chicken +and sauce, season with half a teaspoonful each plain and celery salt, a +teaspoonful of onion juice, a little lemon juice and chopped parsley. +Mix thoroughly, then set the mixture away to cool. When cool and stiff +roll in finely powdered bread crumbs so that every bit of the chicken is +covered and shape into cones, cutlets or cylinders. Have ready a beaten +egg to which a scant tablespoonful of milk has been added, dip the +croquettes in this, drain well, roll in crumbs again, and again set +aside to cool and stiffen. When ready to cook, slip in well-buttered bag +and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. + +=Paper Bagged Chicken.=--Split the chicken down the middle of the back, +spread flat, and put a skewer in each side to prevent it from curling. +Beat up a very fresh egg, with a pinch of salt, black pepper to taste, +an ounce of melted butter, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce or +something similar and a teaspoonful of made mustard. Mix well. With a +brush glaze the chicken with the mixture. Place in a greased bag with +bread crumbs around and over it. Be careful that the skewers do not tear +the bag. Seal up tight and cook from thirty-five to forty minutes in a +very hot oven. + +=Chicken Pie.=--Disjoint two chickens and cook until tender in just +enough water to cover. Remove all the thick skin and the largest bones. +Line a baking dish with good paste, pack the chicken in layers and dust +each with salt, pepper and flour. Pour in enough of the chicken liquor +to come nearly to the top; lay on a tablespoon of butter and cover with +a crust after cutting out a piece as large as the top of a small cup. +Moisten the edges and press together, then ornament the top with leaves +cut from the trimmings of paste. Bag and bake in a quick oven. + +=Paste for Chicken Pie.=--Sift five level teaspoons of baking powder and +one level teaspoon of salt with four cups of flour and rub in one cup of +butter until like coarse meal. Mix with nearly two cups of milk or +enough to make a dough that can be rolled out. This makes a more +hygienic crust than where no baking powder is used. + +=Chicken Rissoles.=--Chop fine two cupfuls chicken and dressing or any +scraps left. Add two spoonfuls mashed potato, the beaten yolk of one +egg, salt and pepper to season. Roll in balls, dip in beaten egg yolk, +then in fine bread crumbs and place in paper bag. Bake twenty minutes. + +=Roast Chicken.=--Cover the breast of the fowl or chicken with butter, +drippings, or any refined vegetable oil or tie a piece of fat bacon over +it. Place in a bag and set on broiler in a hot oven. Allow twenty-five +minutes for a small Spring chicken, thirty-five minutes for a large +fowl, forty-five to fifty minutes (according to size) for stuffed +poultry in a moderate oven. + +=Saute of Chicken With Mushrooms.=--Cut a young, tender chicken into +joints, trim off all projecting bones, season with salt and pepper--not +too highly--and brush over with melted butter. Put into a well-buttered +wooden cook dish, with eight or twelve small mushrooms, cut in slices. +Add a pinch of herbs, a very small onion, and a half gill of good white +stock. Seal bag tight, give ten minutes in a very hot oven, then thirty +in moderate heat. Take up on a hot dish and keep hot, while you make the +gravy. Take for the gravy the hot liquor from the bag, put it in a bowl +with the yolk of an egg beaten up in half a gill of cream. Stir hard +over hot water, but do not let boil. When thoroughly blended, pour over +the chicken, garnish with chopped parsley, a few mushroom heads and half +moons of crisp puff paste. Serve as hot as possible. + +=Smothered Chicken.=--Have a good sized broiler cut into joints, taking +care not to leave sharp bones projecting. Salt and pepper them lightly, +dredge with flour and lay in a well-greased bag upon thin slices of +bacon. Cover the chicken with more bacon slices, taking care to keep the +chicken spread rather flat. Add a tablespoonful of water or a couple of +peeled and sliced tomatoes. Shreds of green pepper add somewhat of +flavor to the tomatoes. Seal in a bag and cook for forty minutes, +slacking the heat almost half after the first five minutes. Serve on a +hot dish with gravy from the bag. + +=Ducks With Banana Dressing.=--Wash with cold salt water inside and out, +drain, wipe dry and season lightly with salt and pepper. Make a dressing +of toasted bread crumbs mixed with an equal quantity of banana. Cut in +small pieces, well seasoned with chopped celery, salt and pepper. Stuff, +truss, grease all over and tie slices of bacon over the breast. Put in a +well-greased bag, add the juice of a lemon, and a wine glass of sherry. +Seal and put in a very hot oven. At the end of fifteen minutes reduce +heat one-half and cook for fifty minutes longer. + +=Canvas Backs.=--Draw the ducks as soon as they are received, pluck, +singe and wipe them with a damp cloth, but under no conditions wash +them. When ready to cook, truss, dust lightly with pepper, and salt and +spread them thickly with butter or vegetable oil. A very slight dusting +of flour should be given when they are put into the oven. After +eighteen minutes of intense heat they are ready to serve, accompanied by +toasted hominy and black currant jelly. + +=Chicken, Italian Style.=--Chop fine one onion, one small carrot, a +stick of celery and a sprig of parsley. Place in the bottom of one of +the wooden cookery dishes and season with salt, pepper and two +tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Lay a good sized broiling chicken cut into +joints on top of the vegetables, and around the chicken a half dozen +dried mushrooms that have been soaked for fifteen minutes in cold water. +Put in paper bag, seal and bake forty-five minutes. Remove chicken to +hot platter, add a little tomato sauce to the vegetables and stock +remaining in the dish, pour over the chicken and serve. + +=Roast Wild Duck.=--If these come from salt marshes, and have therefore +a fishy taste, pick, dress, scald a moment in boiling salt water, then +put in very cold water for half an hour. Drain, wipe dry and having cut +a lemon in half rub all over inside and out with the juice and pulp. +Then grease the outside of the duck with vegetable oil or butter, salt +very lightly and put in greased bag. Seal and roast in a moderate oven +for an hour. Serve with paper bag baked potatoes, tart jelly and +pickles. + +=Roast Wild Duck No. 2.=--Clean and singe your duck; have a dish with +boiling water enough to cover same, in which you put a tablespoonful of +salt and a little carrot; parboil for only five minutes; then take out +and dry. Have apples peeled and cut in quarters; stuff the duck with +them. Slice bacon and wrap about four slices around it, tied with a +string, lay in a buttered bag with a teacupful of water and a little +salt and pepper and roast in a very hot oven for an hour. Make a gravy +from the drippings in bag thickened slightly and seasoned with lemon +juice, a little curry powder and any good sauce. + +=Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style.=--Dress the duck as usual, then stuff with +one quart of sauer kraut mixed with one sweet apple sliced and a few +mixed spices to season. Place two stalks of celery in one of the wooden +cookery dishes, lay the duck on top, place in bag. Seal and bake in a +moderate oven for an hour and a half. + +=Frogs' Legs.=--Scald the legs in boiling hot water for a minute or two, +drain and wipe them dry, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in beaten +egg, roll in cracker crumbs and put in a well-greased bag. The use of a +wood cookery dish is recommended. Bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. +Serve hot with points of toast and slices of lemon placed around the +platter. + +=Paper Bag Roast Goose.=--For roasting, a goose should preferably be +scarcely passed the gosling period, not more than a year old at the +most. Its wings should be supple and tender at the pinions, its breast +bone soft and pliable. Its feet smooth and yellow, and its fat white and +soft. Before drawing, singe the bird, then give it a thorough bath with +soapsuds and a soft scrubbing brush. The skin is so oily that cold water +would make no impression, and the skin is bound to be full of dust. When +purification is complete, rinse thoroughly in clear cold water, then dry +and draw. Wash the inside quickly with clear water to which a little +baking soda has been added, then rinse and wipe. The Germans are partial +to a stuffing made of equal parts of bread crumbs, chopped apples, +seeded raisins and boiled onions well seasoned with salt, pepper and +butter. Americans as a rule give the preference to a potato stuffing +made of mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, salt, pepper and a +little butter and sage. The yolks of two eggs allowed to each pint of +potato makes the dressing richer. Before trussing the goose, remove all +the extra fat. This should be saved and tried out later for that +sovereign remedy for croup,--"goose grease." It is of no value, however, +in cooking and if left in the bird, gives a coarse, rank flavor. Season +the goose on the inside with salt and pepper, then stuff and truss it +into shape like a turkey. Rub over lightly with vegetable oil or butter, +or cover the breast with several thin slices of fat salt pork. This +keeps the skin moist. Put into a well-greased bag of goodly proportions, +or better still, two bags, add a tablespoonful of cold water, seal and +set in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes. Then reduce the heat about +half and cook until done, allowing twenty-two minutes to the pound. +Serve with apples baked in a bag, mashed turnips or squash and hot corn +bread that can also be cooked in a bag. + +=Sage and Potato Stuffing.=--Should you give the preference to the +old-fashioned potato-and-sage stuffing, such as your grandmother used to +make, fashion it in this way: peel and boil for half an hour a half +dozen good-sized potatoes. Mash well and season with one tablespoonful +salt, and a teaspoonful pepper, two tablespoonfuls of white onions +minced fine, and cooked in a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful +of sage. Mix lightly and stuff. + +=Bag Roasted Young Guinea Fowl.=--It is but a few years ago +comparatively that the excellence of the guinea fowl for the table was +duly recognized. Most people were afraid to try them. Now the guinea is +not only being served in all the best restaurants, but in many private +homes as well. While the young guineas make the choicest eating, the old +birds are not to be despised. In stuffing the guinea any approved turkey +stuffing may be used, the accompaniments being as with turkey, giblet +gravy and cranberry sauce. In roasting a very little water goes into the +bag, instead thin pieces of fat, salt pork are skewered across the +breast and around the drum sticks. + +=Bag Broiled Young Guinea Hen.=--For bag broiling, split down the back +and flatten. Brush over with vegetable oil or melted butter, put in +buttered bag and bake in gas oven or hot coal oven. Lay on a hot +platter, season with salt and pepper, spread with a rounding +tablespoonful butter stirred with a tablespoonful finely minced parsley, +garnish with watercress and little moulds or spoonfuls of cranberry +jelly and serve. + +=Quail.=--As for cooking quail there is no better way than to roast them +plain, with plenty of red pepper and a little salt. For those who +prefer, an excellent way is to serve them with bacon, which supplies the +fat which all game birds lack. + +Take a half dozen quail, wipe with a damp cloth, split them and break +the leg bones. Mix together a teaspoonful of pure olive or cotton seed +oil, a dash of cayenne and a tiny bit of salt. Brush the birds with this +mixture and put in well-greased bag, seal, put in oven and roast fifteen +minutes. Arrange six slices of delicately browned toast on a hot +platter, place the birds on the slices and baste with a mixture of good +butter, minced parsley and the juice of a half dozen lemons. Garnish +with slices of crisped bacon and watercress. + +=Quail No. 2.=--Place four quail in a wooden dish with a link of sausage +between the birds and a strip of bacon laid on each. Put in bag, seal, +and bake twenty-five minutes. + +=Stuffed Quail.=--Put into each bird a half prune or fat raisin, with a +bit of butter and a few well seasoned bread crumbs. Wrap each bird in a +slice of bacon, fastening with string or tooth picks and put in +well-buttered bag. Seal and place on broiler and bake about twenty-five +minutes, reducing the heat during the last half of the time. + +=Rabbit Cookery.=--In selecting a rabbit the principal thing is to find +out the age and also how long hung. A rabbit should be ripe but not +gamy. Unless in cold storage, they should not be kept for more than two +or three days. The age of a rabbit may be determined by testing the paw. +If there is a little nut there and the paw may be broken readily between +the thumb and finger the rabbit is young. If the nut has disappeared and +the paw resists pressure, the rabbit is too venerable for anything but a +stew. In dressing a rabbit there is a little secret that enables the +cook to dispose of the gamy odor that so many object to. If the thin, +muscular membrane that extends from the flank over the intestines is +carefully removed before cooking, the strong flavor will go with it, +leaving the flesh delightfully sweet. The gall bladder in the liver must +also be removed with extreme care, so as not to break it. + +=Barbecued Rabbit.=--Open plump young rabbits all the way down the under +side, wash and clean thoroughly. Lay out flat in a pan of salt and water +for an hour, with a weighted plate or saucer on top to hold under the +water. Wipe dry and gash across the backbone in eight or ten places and +having brushed it over with olive oil or melted butter, bag and bake in +a hot oven forty-five minutes. + +Lay on a hot dish, season with salt, pepper and plenty of melted butter, +then set in the oven for the butter to soak in. Heat in a small cup two +tablespoonfuls vinegar with one of made mustard and brush over the +rabbit while boiling hot. Garnish with parsley and watercress and serve +alone or with a currant jelly sauce. + +=Roast Rabbit.=--Stuff, truss, dredge with flour and rub all over with +vegetable oil, soft butter or good drippings. Season lightly with salt +and paprika or black pepper, place in wood cookery dish in well-greased +bag, seal and place in hot oven. Allow fifty minutes, reducing the heat +at the end of the first twenty minutes. + +=Roast Rabbit No. 2.=--For an older rabbit, put into a stew kettle whole +without dividing the pieces from the body. Pour in one quart of water, +add a little pinch of soda when it starts to boil, and stew gently until +tender. When tender take from the broth. Meantime mix together three +large cupfuls dried bread crumbs, butter the size of a walnut and salt, +pepper and sage to taste. Pour enough of the broth over this to mix +rather soft. Stuff the rabbit, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt +and pepper, lay in a buttered bag and bake to a rich brown in a moderate +oven. It will not take more than a few moments. Make a good brown gravy, +adding onion browned in butter if desired. A little onion may also be +added to the dressing, according to preference. + +=Stewed Rabbit.=--Cut in eight pieces, salt and pepper and put in +buttered wooden dish, set in a buttered bag with a finely chopped onion, +a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter cupful stock or hot water and a +tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth with a little cold water, then +blended with the hot. Seal the bag and bake forty-five minutes in a hot +oven. + +=Reed Birds.=--Most of the reed birds obtained in our markets are in +reality nothing but sparrows, and those undrawn. If fed on grain, as +they are in Chicago, they are really very nice. To bake, wrap each one +in a thin slice of bacon or salt pork, put in buttered bag, seal and +cook in a quick oven. Still more delectable are they cooked en surprise. +For a half dozen covers, prepare the same number of birds, six large +oval potatoes, six oysters, and some thin slices of bacon. Prepare the +birds as for roasting, and tuck into each little interior an oyster, +seasoned with salt and pepper. Then wrap each bird in a slice of bacon. +Now, having the potatoes well scrubbed, cut off one end, and using a +vegetable scoop, cut out a hollow in each large enough to hold a bird. +Insert the bird, replace the end of the potato, cut off, tie in place, +put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven. Serve as soon as done, +removing the string. The flavor of the bird, oysters and potato makes a +delicious combination that cannot be surpassed. Serve simply with +butter, or if preferred, a mushroom or oyster sauce. + +=Squab.=--In cleaning a squab, take care not to break the little sack +that holds the entrails. Split the birds down the back, rub with salt, +pepper and butter or oil. Sprinkle with cracker dust and put into +well-buttered bag. Bake fifteen minutes and serve on slices of crisp, +hot, buttered toast with or without a thin, crispy slice of bacon. +Garnish with cress or parsley. + +=Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style.)=--Get two fat squirrels, skin and +draw. Cut the thin skin on each side of the stomach close to the ribs, +then wipe with damp cloth. Sprinkle with black pepper but use no salt. +Put a layer of fat bacon in a wooden dish, set in a well-greased bag and +lay the squirrels on this bed. Cover with more thin slices of bacon pour +in the bag a half cupful good broth, seal, and bake an hour in a +moderate oven. Serve with grape jelly or spiced grapes. + +=Turkey à la Bonham.=--Pick out a young hen turkey, plump and delicate +with small bones. Carefully remove all pin feathers and complete the +drawing which may have been imperfectly done by the butcher. Cut off the +neck close to the body which will make the turkey fit in the bag better, +and make a proper appearance when placed on the table. Wash thoroughly +inside and out and wipe dry. For the stuffing make two kinds--one for +the body and one for the breast. It is a good plan to make these +different so as to suit all tastes. For the body, make a chestnut +stuffing. Boil and peel one quart of large chestnuts and mash with a +fork. Season with pepper, salt and a little butter. For the breast, take +a pint of bread crumbs free from crusts. Fry a half onion cut fine in a +very little butter or vegetable oil until tender but not brown. Season +nicely with chopped parsley and thyme, not too much. Salt and pepper and +moisten with one beaten egg. Fill the breast and sew body and breast +neatly, pulling the skin of the breast over the stuffing, and fastening +in place with the wings which should be turned back to hold the skin in +place. Rub the outside of the bird with flour mixed with salt and +pepper, cover the breast with slices of fat salt pork tied on. Now slip +breast down into a thoroughly greased bag or preferably two bags, one +outside the other, the outside one also well-greased. Lay some of the +fat from the turkey or a few strips of bacon over the bag, and put on +the grate, seam up. Slip under the grid on the bottom of the oven a +dripping pan half full of water to keep the bird moist, and prevent any +fat leaking through in case the bag should burst. Be careful not to let +the bag touch the side of the oven. Light both burners of the gas stove +for five minutes to get the oven hot for the start. Turn out one and +roast about an hour and three-quarters for a twelve pound bird. Lift out +carefully, sliding the pancake turner under it to get it out easily and +put it on hot platter. + +For the gravy, clean the giblets thoroughly and put to cook with the +neck in water to cover well. Add one onion cut up and cook until tender. +Chop fine and thicken slightly with browned flour or caramel which is +simply sugar browned in a pan with a little boiling water. + +=Venison.=--For roasting, the saddle is best. As the meat is naturally +dry, it must be well larded with strips of firm fat pork. Sprinkle with +salt and pepper and rub over with pork drippings. Put in large +well-greased bag, add two glasses of port or claret, seal and bake in +moderate oven. For a roast of three pounds, allow an hour and ten +minutes. For an eight pound roast, two hours and a half. Serve very hot +with red or black currant jelly. + +=Venison Steak.=--Prepare in the regular way, place in wooden cookery +dish and season with salt and pepper. Put in bag. Seal and cook an hour +and twenty minutes. The wooden dishes add to the flavor of all game. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +BEEF. + + +=Bullock's Heart.=--THIS is an inexpensive portion of the beef, but a +very tasty one when properly cooked. It should always be served on very +hot dishes, both plates and platter. If you elect to roast your heart, +put in a basin of warm water and let soak for an hour to draw out the +blood. Wipe dry, brush with oil or butter and tie or skewer in shape. +Put in well-greased bag and roast about two hours. Serve with a border +of carrots sliced and fried. + +=Stewed Bullock's Heart.=--Soak in a basin of warm water for an hour, +then drain and wipe dry. Cut in halves, rub each side with flour and put +in a frying pan with a little hot butter. As soon as browned, transfer +to a buttered bag, adding four or five onions sliced and browned lightly +in the same butter, together with a sprig of thyme and salt and pepper +to season. Add a half cupful of water and cook slowly about three hours. + +=Filet of Beef.=--Cut from the end of a tenderloin of beef, slices about +5/8 of an inch thick. Flatten down to about 3/8 of an inch and trim +round. Salt lightly on both sides, dust with pepper, and lay in a little +hot melted butter, flavored with a tiny scraping of garlic for an hour, +turning three or four times in the meantime. Take out, put in a +well-buttered bag, seal and cook twenty-five minutes. Serve on small +pieces of toast that have been spread with butter and browned in a bag, +pouring over them the juice of the meat that will have collected in the +bag. + +=Hamburg Steak.=--Hamburg steak, which is too often a delusion and a +snare as furnished by the inexperienced cook, can be so manipulated in +paper bag cookery as to emerge a very delectable and decorative dish. In +the first place never telephone for hamburg steak nor buy that already +chopped and mounded ostentatiously on a platter with a garnish of +parsley. Naturally the butcher works up his trimmings and inferior cuts +into this comparatively inexpensive and much patronized form. Having +purchased your cut of round steak in the slice, its lack of natural fat +must be made up by the addition of a little beef suet (preferably from +the kidney). A piece of suet the size of a butter nut may be allowed to +each pound of lean meat. Next, if possible, get the butcher to chop it +by hand rather than by the easier-to-him method of running it through +the meat grinder. Now having your good meat at home it may be prepared +in any one of a half dozen ways. For the Hamburg steaks, press lightly +together into cakes about the size of a chop. If onion is desired a +little onion juice may be added with discretion, but for most tastes +boiled onions served separately, to accompany the steak, will be found +preferable, or a few rings of raw onion added to a lettuce salad. The +closely packed Hamburg steak is bound to be tough and dry. Better add a +beaten egg to hold the chopped meat together than press the small and +delicate particles of meat compactly. + +Season lightly, brush over with oil or melted butter and lay in buttered +bag. Seal and roast for half an hour. Take up on a hot platter, season, +add a little melted butter mixed with finely chopped parsley and serve +hot with baked or mashed potatoes. A tomato sauce may go with the steaks +or a brown gravy made from beef stock. A pleasant change in the +appearance of Hamburg steak can be effected by shaping it to look like +lamb chops. When these are bag broiled with a bit of macaroni in each +end to simulate the chop bone they can be arranged to stand on a bed of +parsley stacked against a pretty bowl containing tomato sauce or stewed +tomato, a spoonful of which is to be served with each portion. The bed +on which the chops are to rest may be mashed potato or peas, if +preferred to the parsley. + +=Pot Roast.=--While this does not eliminate washing the pot, the juices +and flavor of the beef are so conserved that instead of the usual dry +pot-roast it is moist and tender and so well worth the trouble. + +Peel and slice a good sized onion and brown in a round bottomed iron pot +with a piece of beef suet. Wash a four or five pound piece of bottom +round, place in the pot without any water and brown quickly on all +sides, turning it without piercing with a fork. When very brown add a +small cup of water, push it back and let simmer for one hour, turning +frequently. Season and cook for ten minutes longer, then place it in a +well-greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven on a broiler, adding about +a cupful of the liquid in which it was cooking, before sealing. Reduce +the heat of the oven after ten minutes and cook an hour and a half to +two hours according to size. Potatoes may be peeled and browned in the +gravy left in the pot. When done, the liquid in the bag should be added +to that in the pot and thickened for gravy, first skimming off the fat +if too rich. + +=Rib Roast of Beef.=--Grease the roast lightly with drippings or +vegetable oil, season with pepper, but not with salt, dust lightly with +flour and place in well-greased bag, seal, and place in a hot oven, at +the end of fifteen minutes, reduce the heat one-half and continue +cooking for half an hour longer in case of a three pound roast or for a +seven pound one, a little over an hour. + +=Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag.=--Get three or four pounds of beef +from top round, asking the butcher for a high chunky piece--not a +slab--from the tenderest, juiciest part. Have him tie it up securely and +add a piece of suet. Well grease the bag inside. Season and flour the +meat, place a small piece of suet on top, insert in bag, fasten with +paper clips, and put on a broiler in a hot oven, reducing the heat after +about five minutes. Allow fifteen minutes for each pound. It will be a +rich brown on the outside but rare and juicy. With an exceptionally +sharp carving knife the meat should be cut in very thin, appetizingly +rare and tender slices. + +This is a most economical and nutritious roast, having no waste in bones +and trimmings, and if cut from good beef is as delicious as a +porterhouse roast. + +=Sauer Braten.=--Rub a solid piece of the round of beef with vinegar, +dust lightly with salt and pepper and a bit of bay leaf rubbed to a +powder. Let the meat stand over night or twelve hours. Cut several +slashes in the meat, put in two small onions cut in quarters and two +carrots cut in strips and the same amount of turnip. Dust a pinch of +poultry seasoning or sweet herbs over. Lay three thin slices of salt +pork in the well-greased paper bag, add a half cupful boiling water and +if there is room in the bag tuck in a few more carrots or onions. Seal +and place in a very hot oven for eight minutes, then reduce the heat at +least half, and cook about two hours. Have a dripping pan with an inch +of water in it, set under the oven rack so that if by any mischance the +bag should burst, nothing would be lost. The steam from the water in +the pan serves the same purpose as wetting the bag before filling, +keeping it from becoming too brittle. Two bags will be found better than +one in this case. + +=Beef Steak.=--Wipe the meat, trim off extra fat and brush over with oil +or butter. Season lightly with salt and pepper, put in well-greased bag, +seal, place on grid in very hot oven and cook from fifteen to eighteen +minutes, according to thickness of steak. At the last, pierce a few +holes in the top of the bag, if there is any doubt about the steak being +sufficiently browned. Take up on hot platter and spread with parsley +butter, pouring any gravy remaining in the pan over the meat. + +=Toledo Beef Steak.=--Place a top sirloin steak in a wood cookery dish, +season with salt and pepper and place in bag. Seal and cook twenty +minutes. Remove from the oven, open the bag and turn the steak. Spread +over the top a little dry mustard and season with salt, pepper, two +tablespoonfuls of drawn butter and a large tablespoonful of +Worcestershire sauce. Place on the top grate of the oven without the +bag, and leave ten or fifteen minutes until crisp and brown. + +=Stuffed Roast Beef or "Mock Duck."=--Take two flank steaks or one large +round steak. If the former, sew together with coarse strong cotton, +leaving one side open like a bag to be filled with the dressing. If the +latter, place on the meat board and spread with a dressing made from +mashed potato, well seasoned, sweet potatoes sliced and seasoned, or a +forcemeat made from two cupfuls bread crumbs, a quarter cup butter or +vegetable oil, in which a chopped onion has been cooked, with salt, +pepper and cloves to season. The Germans like a half cupful of seeded +raisins or chopped prunes added to this. Roll the meat about the +filling and tie with strips of cotton cloth, or if you are using the +flank steak, stuff the pocket and tie in shape. Butter the pocket or +roll well on the outside, slip into a large well-buttered bag, add a +tablespoonful of broth or hot water, seal, and cook in a hot oven ten +minutes. + +Reduce the heat and cook forty or fifty minutes more according to weight +of the steak. A second bag over the first is advised here when the roll +is heavy. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +LAMB AND MUTTON. + + +THE paper bag seems made expressly for lamb and mutton cookery. + +=Breast of Lamb With Tomato Sauce.=--Get three pounds breast of lamb, +boil until tender, and slip out the bones. This is best done the day +before you are to bag it. Half an hour before serving, egg, crumb, +season and put in a well-greased bag. Seal and put in a very hot oven +for twenty minutes. Serve with tomato sauce. + +=Lamb Chops.=--If you use the rib chops have them frenched, saving the +trimmings for the stock pot. If you have the loin chops, skewer to keep +in shape. Season with salt and pepper and brush over with oil or melted +butter. Put in a well-greased bag, seal, place on the grid shelf in a +hot oven, and cook for ten or fifteen minutes according to the thickness +of the chop. When done put on a hot platter and spread with parsley or +mint butter. + +=Lamb or Mutton Cutlets With Tomatoes.=--Cut the best end of the neck +into neat cutlets, flatten and trim. Season with salt and pepper, brush +with melted butter or oil, sprinkle with mint or chopped parsley and +chives, and place in a buttered bag, with a tablespoonful of tomato on +each chop. Seal and cook in hot oven twelve or fifteen minutes. + +=Lamb Fry.=--Wash thoroughly a pound and a half of lamb's fry and put in +a pan of cold water. Simmer five minutes, lift out and pat dry on a soft +cloth. Divide in nice pieces, dip in a batter made of one egg, one +tablespoonful of milk, salt and pepper to season and flour to make of +the consistency of cream. Arrange these pieces in a buttered bag. Seal +and bake ten minutes. Serve with fried parsley. + +=Lamb's Kidney.=--Skin, split, dip in butter and place on skewer. Dust +with salt and pepper, and place in buttered bag. Seal, place in hot oven +and cook eight minutes. + +=Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider.=--Buy the leg of mutton two or three +days before you wish to serve it. Take off the "woolly" skin that has +the strong taste on the outside and wipe carefully with a damp cloth. +Then rub with a mixture of spices, using half a teaspoonful each of +cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper and nutmeg. Rub thoroughly and hang +the mutton in a cool place for two days; then put in a well-greased bag, +adding four onions chopped fine, a cupful seedless raisins and a cupful +of sweet cider. Put in hot oven and bake half an hour, then reduce the +heat, and cook an hour and a half. Serve with a hot cider sauce. + +=Mutton Chops and Sausage.=--Place two thick chops in a wooden dish with +three links of sausage. Season lightly with salt and pepper, lay two +strips of bacon over the top of the chops and seal in bag. Bake from +twenty minutes to half an hour in a moderate oven. + +=Ragout of Lamb.=--Grease the bag well, and lay in a layer of sliced raw +potatoes, seasoned lightly. Put on top of the potatoes a layer of meat, +seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, and lay thin slices of +onion across meat. Add one-half cup canned tomato or tomato sauce, cover +the whole with another layer of sliced potato, seal, and bake +thirty-five minutes. You may use a wooden cooking dish here to +advantage. + +=Roast Leg of Lamb.=--Trim nicely and rub over with oil, dredge with a +little flour and season with salt, pepper and powdered mint. Seal and +bake two hours. Serve with mint sauce. + +=A Genuine Irish Stew.=--Cut two pounds of chops from the best end of a +neck of mutton, and pare away nearly all the fat. A portion of the +breast may be cut into squares and used, but a neck of mutton is the +best joint for the purpose. Take as many potatoes as will amount after +peeling to twice the weight of the meat. Slice them with eight large +onions sliced. Put a layer of mixed potatoes and onions at the bottom of +the buttered paper bag. Place the meat on this and season it plentifully +with pepper and lightly with salt. Pack closely, and cover the meat with +another layer of potato and onion. Pour in as much water or stock as +will moisten the topmost layer, seal tightly, and let the contents cook +gently for two and a half hours. You may use one of the large wooden +cooking dishes here. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +PORK IN VARIED FORMS. + + +=Bacon and Apples.=--CORE, but do not peel, well flavored apples and cut +in crosswise rings about a quarter of an inch thick. Lay on thin slices +of streaky bacon in a well-buttered bag, dust lightly with sugar, seal +and cook eight minutes in a hot oven. + +=Bacon and Bananas.=--Peel firm bananas, halve them lengthwise, dust +lightly with pepper and wrap each in a thin slice of streaky bacon. Put +in a well-greased bag, seal and cook in a hot oven ten minutes. + +=Bacon and Calf's Liver.=--Pour boiling water over thin slices of calf's +liver and let stand ten minutes. Drain, pat dry and dredge with flour, +seasoning with pepper and a little salt. Lay slices of bacon in a +greased bag and on top put a layer of the liver, seal and bake fifteen +minutes. Serve on hot platter. + +=Baked Pork Chops.=--Season with salt and pepper, then cover each side +of the chops with a forcemeat made moist enough to stick to them. Place +in a well-greased bag, adding a spoonful of water, seal and bake +twenty-five minutes. + +=Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes.=--Select six sweet potatoes of uniform +size. Peel, cut in half lengthwise, brush each piece all over with +melted butter and dredge lightly with powdered sugar. Place in a +thoroughly buttered bag flat side down. On top of them put pork chops, +seasoned, rolled in flour and from which the fat has been partly +trimmed. Seal and bake in hot oven on broiler for twenty-five minutes. + +Pork chops cooked in this way are as tender as chicken, not hard in +fibre as they usually are when fried. + +=Ham and Scalloped Potatoes.=--Peel and slice potatoes very thin. Put a +layer in the bottom of a buttered bag and on top of the potatoes a layer +of raw ham sliced very thin, and with the most of the fat trimmed off. +Sprinkle with a little flour. Add little bits of butter rolled in flour +and salt and pepper to season. Proceed in this way until the desired +amount is obtained, having the top layer of potatoes sprinkled with +flour and bits of butter. Turn in enough sweet milk or cream to come +even with the top layer, and bake twenty minutes or until the potatoes +are tender. The trimmings from the fat of the ham can be used in place +of the butter if preferred. One of the wooden cooking dishes is +convenient here. + +=Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops.=--Place two or more slices of ham in a +wood cookery dish. Spread over it the contents of a small can of spinach +and on top of the spinach place Frenched lamb chops. Put in greased +paper bag, and surround by six potatoes prepared for baking. Close the +bag, and bake 45 minutes in a moderate oven. This makes a very easy +dinner--as the whole meal can be cooked in the oven without having to be +watched--and the mistress of the house can be ready dressed to entertain +guests without danger of spoiling her frock by spattering grease. + +=Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder.=--Have the knuckle and bone removed, +wash, wipe dry, season with salt and pepper and fill the bone space with +a forcemeat to which apples or stewed prunes have been added. Sew or +skewer into shape, then lay skin side up in a large, well-greased bag. +Add a half cup of water or cider, a few slices of onion, seal and bake +for fifteen minutes in a very hot oven, then reduce the heat one-half +and bake an hour. + +=Roast Loin of Pork.=--Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge lightly +with flour and put into a greased bag with a half cup of water or +tomato. Seal and bake an hour and a half. Serve with apples baked in +another bag. + +=Roast Spare-Rib.=--Cut the skin of the spare-rib in checks, season with +salt and pepper and put in a well-greased bag surrounded by apples or +sweet potatoes cut in halves, and bake three-quarters of an hour. + +=Baked Sausage With Apples.=--Put links of sausage or sausage cakes in +greased bag, and surround with well flavored apples cored and cut in +halves but not peeled. Stand the apples flesh side down. Seal and bake +fifteen minutes. + +=Baked Sausage and Potato.=--Get the best country sausage meat and mould +into a little roll. Dust lightly with flour and put into a well-greased +bag. Peel enough potatoes to make a wall about the meat and cut them in +halves. They should stand with the cut side against the meat. Seal the +bag and bake about thirty minutes until the potatoes are tender and +brown and the sausage well done. If desired, use the drippings that come +from the sausage as the foundation for a cream gravy to serve with the +sausage or serve without. Sausage cooked in this way is also nice sliced +cold and makes appetizing sandwiches for the school lunch basket. + +=Baked Sausage With Toast.=--Put a half dozen link sausages in a +well-greased bag, separating them by as many slices of bread cut the +same height. Add a half cup of good brown sauce and a few mushrooms if +desired. Seal and bake twelve minutes. Serve with the sauce and a little +minced parsley sprinkled over the sausage. + +=Baked Sausage With Tomatoes.=--Put into the greased bag sausage cakes +or links. Chop fine one small onion, a teaspoonful of parsley and two +tomatoes, spread over the sausage, seal and cook twenty minutes. + +=Tenderloin of Pork.=--Get fat, large tenderloins and have them split, +but leave connected down the side. Fill with a good forcemeat or potato +dressing well seasoned, skewer the edges together or tie with string, +put in well-greased bag adding a tablespoonful of water and bake twenty +minutes. Serve with curried apples, made in this way and baked in +another bag at the same time. Peel and core the apples and fill the +cavities with a mixture of curry powder, grated cheese and fine +breadcrumbs. For eight apples use four tablespoonfuls and a half of +curry powder and eight of the bread crumbs. Moisten the mixture with +milk. Bag, seal and bake. These apples are nice served cold with cold +roast pork. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +VEAL. + + +=Baked Calf's Liver.=--ONE calf's liver washed and dried, slashed and +scored inside. Have bread dressing ready well seasoned with onions. +Stuff the liver with this and tie with cord. Skewer to liver with +toothpicks several pieces of bacon, put a little hot water in the bag +and bake at least one hour in a hot oven. Send to table hot, with a +parsley garnish. + +=Calves' Brains in Tempting But Inexpensive Ways.=--Carefully prepared +few can tell the difference between sweetbreads and calves' brains +though the housewife will appreciate the fact that sweetbreads cost +about four times as much as the brains. In whichever way one elects to +cook the brains, the preliminary treatment is the same. Parboil fifteen +minutes in water, to which has been added a teaspoonful of salt and a +tablespoonful of vinegar. After this, let them lie in cold water a few +moments, then remove all membranes and dark streaks. They are now ready +to be cooked in any way preferred. + +=Breaded Brains.=--Separate the lobes of a pair of brains that have been +parboiled as directed. Then with a sharp knife split each division. Beat +the yolk of an egg lightly, thin slightly with cold water or milk, dip +the brains in this, then into finely rolled crumbs. Put in a buttered +bag and bake twenty minutes. Serve on a hot dish with a garnish of +quarters of lemon that have been rolled in finely minced parsley. + +=Sweetbreads.=--The initial treatment of sweetbreads, when they come +from the market, is always the same. Parboil at once in salted water, +from fifteen to thirty minutes, never allowing them to boil. Then plunge +into ice water and lemon juice or vinegar (a tablespoonful to a quart of +water) and leave for an hour to blanch and become firm. After +parboiling, the little strings and membranes can be very readily +removed. Now they are ready for the finishing culinary touch, in anyway +the cook may elect. + +=Baked Sweetbreads.=--Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in crumbs then +beaten egg to which a spoonful of milk has been added, then in crumbs +again, the last time having the crumbs well-buttered. Put in greased bag +and bake half an hour in a moderately hot oven. Serve on toast with the +brown gravy poured over the slices. + +=Sweetbreads With Bacon.=--Slice sweetbreads, roll in seasoned crumbs, +then in egg and again in crumbs. Put on a skewer, alternating with +slices of bacon cut thin, put in a greased bag, and bake twenty minutes +in medium oven. + +=Larded Sweetbreads.=--Lard the boiled sweetbreads with strips of bacon +and lemon peel, having the bacon in the centre and peel on the sides. +Lay in paper bag with brown gravy to half cover, and let them bake for +an hour, or until brown. Arrange on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with a +little flour and season with catsup, lemon juice and spices to taste. +Pour over the sweetbreads and serve with peas. + +=Sweetbreads Straight.=--Parboil the sweetbreads, take off the skins, +dust each sweetbread with salt and pepper very lightly and pour over +each a tablespoonful of cream. Slip the sweetbreads into a thickly +greased bag and cook in a moderate oven slowly for forty minutes. Serve +on a hot dish with a border of asparagus or green peas. + +=Vealettes.=--Purchase veal cuts from the leg in slices as large as +one's hand and about half an inch thick. On each slice lay a large +tablespoonful of dressing made from seasoned bread crumbs, a beaten egg +and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Roll up the slices, pinning with +toothpicks to keep the dressing in. Put in a well-greased bag, seal and +bake about three-quarters of an hour. When done, thicken the gravy, pour +over the veal and serve on a hot platter. + +A variation in vealettes is made by getting from the butcher two slices +of veal and a slice of ham the same size. Put together like a sandwich +with the ham in the center and skewer together. Trim the edges evenly +and bake in a bag. When the veal is done take up on a hot platter, +thicken the drippings remaining in the bag, adding enough hot water to +make a good consistency. + +=Veal Loaf.=--Mince three pounds raw lean veal and a quarter pound of +fine fat pork, salt or fresh. Season with half an onion, grated fine, a +tablespoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of pepper, a half teaspoonful +powdered thyme, quarter of a spoonful sweet marjoram, the same amount +Summer savory and a saltspoonful celery salt. Next mix in two-thirds of +a cup of rolled cracker crumbs, a scant cupful veal gravy or hot milk, +the yolk of one egg and the whites of two beaten together until light. +Mix thoroughly and form into a compact loaf. Roll it until coated in +yolks of the two eggs left over, then in sifted cracker or bread crumbs, +and put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven. Roast two hours and +serve cold, cut in very thin slices. + +=Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised.=--Buy a shoulder of veal and ask +the butcher to bone it and send the bones with the meat. Cover the bones +with cold water and when it comes to a boil, skim, then add a little +onion and carrot, a few seasoning herbs and any spices desired. Simmer +gently for an hour or so until you have a pint of stock. To make the +stuffing, take a stale loaf, cut off the crust and soak in a little cold +water until soft. Rub the crumb of the loaf as fine as possible in the +hands, then add to the soaked and softened crust. Chop a half cupful of +suet fine, put into a frying pan a tablespoonful of the suet, and when +hot add an onion chopped fine. Cook until brown, then add to the bread +with regular poultry seasoning or else salt, pepper and a bit of thyme. +Mix well and stuff the cavity in the shoulder, then pull the flaps of +the meat over and sew up. Put the rest of the suet in the frying pan, +and having dusted the meat with flour, salt, pepper and a sprinkling of +sugar, brown on all sides in the fat. Into the bottom of the bag put a +layer of thin sliced onion and carrot, a bit of bay leaf and sprigs of +parsley, and on this lay the meat. Add two or three cloves, pour the hot +stock around it, cover closely and braise in a hot oven for two and a +half hours. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +SAUCES AND GRAVIES. + + +=Bignon's Sauce.=--THIS is a delightful appetizer with meats cold or +hot, or with fish. Chop fine equal parts, say one tablespoonful of each, +capers, parsley, chives, gherkins, tarragon and green Chili peppers. Mix +together; season with salt, pepper and cayenne and cover with tarragon +vinegar; let it stand an hour and add three tablespoonfuls of oil and a +teaspoonful of French mustard. + +=Bread Sauce.=--Mince an onion and boil in milk until soft. Then strain +the milk over one cupful of grated bread crumbs and stand aside, closely +covered, for an hour. Add the minced onion, two tablespoonfuls of +butter, pepper, salt and a bit of mace to season. Set over the fire, +boil up and serve with roasted or broiled birds. + +=Brown Sauce.=--The formula for this is the same as for the white sauce, +except that the butter and fat are browned before the flour is added, or +browned flour is used for thickening. Use a little more flour +proportionately, in a brown sauce, as the browning destroys, in a +measure, the thickening qualities of the flour. Reduce with brown stock +or water. + +With this as foundation, any number of palatable sauces can be invented +which will be found useful in disposing of many odds and ends of +vegetables, cold meats and left-over fish, that might otherwise "go +begging." + +=Celery Sauce.=--Prepare a smooth, white sauce by blending over the fire +two tablespoonfuls each butter, and flour, then reducing with a pint of +warm milk. Add a dozen stalks of celery that have been minced fine and +cooked tender in just enough water to cover. Cook two minutes, season +with salt and pepper and serve with boiled fowl. + +=Currant Jelly Sauce.=--This makes a delicious addition to roast venison +or mutton. Cook together in a saucepan one tablespoonful butter and a +teaspoonful minced onion. When the onion is lightly colored, (not +blackened) add a teaspoonful of flour and stir until smooth. Add +gradually a half cupful stock, stirring all the time, and when it boils +up add a bit of bay leaf, a teaspoonful vinegar, a half teaspoonful +salt, and eighth teaspoonful pepper, one clove, and a tablespoonful of +currant jelly. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve hot. + +=Curry Sauce.=--This is nice with any delicate meat or fish or can be +poured over boiled rice for a side dish. Put two tablespoonfuls butter +in a saucepan, then stir into it two tablespoonfuls flour. Add a scant +tablespoonful curry powder and a teaspoonful onion juice, and cook a +moment or two, but do not allow them to brown. Stir in gradually one +cupful milk and cook until smooth and thickened. Add a cup of cream, +season with salt and just before serving, add, if you like, a hard +boiled egg chopped fine. + +=Hollandaise Sauce.=--Put one-half cup of butter into a bowl of cold +water and wash it to take out the salt. Divide it into three parts and +put one-third into the top of a double boiler with the yolks of two +eggs and a tablespoon of lemon juice. Stir and cook until the butter +melts, add another piece of butter and continue stirring. As the sauce +thickens stir in the last piece, add one-third cup of boiling water, a +speck of cayenne and a saltspoon of salt and cook one minute. + +=Horseradish Sauce.=--Put a saucepan over the fire with a tablespoonful +of butter and a half tablespoonful of flour. Stir and cook two minutes, +then add a half cupful of strained soup stock and a half cupful of milk, +six whole peppers, a bit of bay leaf and an even half teaspoonful of +salt. Cook five minutes, remove bay leaf and peppers, and add three +tablespoonfuls grated horseradish. Cook two minutes and serve. + +=Maitre d'Hotel Butter.=--To make it, rub a quarter cupful of butter to +a cream, add a half teaspoonful of salt, a good dash of pepper, white or +paprika, a tablespoonful of fine chopped parsley and a tablespoonful of +lemon juice. If you are partial to nutmeg, a grating of that is +sometimes added. + +=Mexican Sauce.=--Take four large tomatoes or the equivalent in canned, +three green peppers and one onion. Chop pepper and onion in a wooden +bowl, add the tomato and salt and pepper to season. To one-half cupful +of vinegar, add the drippings from four slices fried bacon, pour over +the chopped vegetables and serve in individual salad dishes as an +accompaniment to meats. + +=Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb.=--Put one cup of vinegar and one rounding +tablespoon of sugar together and stir in one-quarter cup of finely +minced mint. Let stand fifteen minutes before it is served. + +=French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style.=--Work together three +tablespoonfuls mustard and one cupful sugar, then beat in one egg until +smooth. Add one cupful of vinegar a little at a time, set over the fire +and cook three or four minutes stirring constantly. When cold add one +tablespoonful olive oil beating all well together. + +=An Excellent Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat.=--Two teaspoonfuls flour, one +teaspoonful sugar, one teaspoonful mustard, a little pepper and salt. +Mash all together, add boiling water, to make thick paste. Beat +constantly till lumps are all out. Add sufficient vinegar to make it +thinner. Be sure the water is boiling. + +=Onion Sauce.=--Prepare a smooth white sauce by blending over the fire +two tablespoonfuls of butter and a tablespoonful and a half of flour. +When bubbly, turn in two cupfuls of hot milk, and stir until smooth and +thickened. Add two large boiled onions minced fine, cook a moment, +season with salt and pepper and serve with poultry or boiled veal. + +=Spanish Sauce.=--For veal, lamb or mutton chops, broiled or fried fish, +chicken, etc. One large onion, one full section of garlic, one-half +large sweet, green or red pepper. Put in two tablespoonfuls of butter, +one teaspoonful of olive or vegetable oil. When effervescing stops add a +half teaspoonful of salt, and the onion, garlic and green pepper which +has been finely grated. When this begins to brown, giving it time to +cook rather well, add four good sized tomatoes, skinned and chopped, or +the thick part of one can of tomatoes. Let all simmer for fifteen to +twenty minutes with occasional stirring to prevent burning. Add salt and +pepper, paprika, or cayenne to taste, two tablespoonfuls tomato ketchup +and one dessertspoonful Worcestershire Sauce, before taking off fire. +It should be the consistency of good cream. If too thin, cook down, or +if too thick add a sufficient amount of _boiling_ water. Use red pepper +as a seasoning. + +=Thick Tomato Sauce.=--Blend over the fire two tablespoonfuls of melted +butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour; add a little at a time, and +stirring all the while, one large cupful of tomato juice. Stir until the +mixture thickens; then season to taste with sugar, salt and cayenne +pepper. The seasoning may sometimes be varied by adding a little chopped +parsley or chopped onion or even both. For a thinner tomato sauce--use +but one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour to each cupful of +liquor. + +=Sauce Tartare.=--Make first a good mayonnaise, then finish with the +addition of a tablespoonful each of chopped gherkins, olives, parsley +and capers; mix together in a bowl a half teaspoonful of salt, a half +teaspoonful mustard, a half teaspoonful of powdered sugar and a half +saltspoonful of pepper; add the yolks of two raw eggs that have been in +the ice box long enough to be as cold as possible and beat lightly; +measure out a half cupful of olive oil and have this cold also; add the +oil slowly at first, then as it begins to thicken it can be poured in +more rapidly. When quite thick, add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, +then the chopped ingredients. This will keep several weeks. Tarragon +vinegar may be used in place of the cider vinegar if preferred. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +RECOOKED DISHES. + + +=Beef Steak Left Overs.=--MINCE fine and for each cup of meat add a +tablespoonful of chopped ham and half as much bread crumbs as you have +meat. Moisten the crumbs with a little hot milk and add to the meat. +Season highly with salt, pepper and chopped parsley or substitute a +little sage or onion juice for the parsley. Beat one egg light and add +to the other ingredients. Make into a brick shaped loaf, grease over +with warmed butter or oil, put in paper bag also greased. Seal and bake +twenty-five minutes. Dish on a hot platter, pour tomato sauce about it +or serve with horse radish sauce. + +=Chicken Croquettes.=--To one solid cupful of meat chopped as fine as +powder, add one half teaspoonful of salt, and a half saltspoonful of +white pepper. Make a pint of thick cream sauce, allowing to two level +tablespoonfuls of butter, two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch +cooked together diluted with a pint of hot milk or cream and stirred and +cooked until smooth and thick. Season with salt and pepper and add +enough to the chicken to make stiff enough to handle when cold. When +cold shape into balls, roll in fine, dry bread crumbs and beaten egg +diluted with a little water, then crumb again and place in well-greased +bag. Seal and cook ten minutes. + +=Mock Fried Oysters.=--To two cupfuls cold boiled rice, add one tin of +sardines, from which all bone and skin have been removed. Roll this +coarse paste into flat, circular cakes, put into well-greased bag and +bake fifteen minutes in moderate oven. + +=Turkey Croquettes.=--Chop the fragments of turkey or other left over +meats very fine, adding for seasoning a small portion of bologna, ham or +tongue together with a bit of fine minced onion or onion juice, salt, +pepper and parsley. Make a thick cream sauce, allowing for a pint of the +chopped and seasoned meat the following portions: + +Put into a saucepan a heaping tablespoonful butter and two level +tablespoonfuls of flour. As soon as blended, pour in a cupful of hot +milk stirring until thick and smooth. Salt to taste. Add the meat and +beat until well mixed. + +Season more highly if desired, then set away in a cold place until cold +and stiffened. Form into cones. Dip in beaten egg, roll in fine crumbs +and place in a cold place again until quite dry. Bake in well-greased +bag and stick a little sprig of parsley in the end of each cone before +serving. + +=Edinboro Hot Pot.=--You will need for this one pound of cold meat +sliced and browned in sweet drippings, one large onion sliced and +browned in the same drippings, a half tin of tomatoes, a half dozen cold +boiled or baked potatoes sliced and a little good stock made from the +bones and seasoning. Put a layer of meat in the well-greased bag or in +one of the oval wood cookery dishes made specially for the purpose. On +top of the meat put some of the onions, tomatoes and potatoes. Season +with salt, pepper and butter or vegetable shortening and pour over all +about a cupful of good stock. Seal the bag and bake for a half hour in +a moderate oven. + +=Individual Meat Pies.=--Chop fine any cold cooked meat. Season highly +with mustard, pepper sauce and catsup, salt and pepper; add one egg; +moisten with liquor of oysters. Make a rich biscuit crust, roll out to a +quarter of an inch thickness, and cut in squares. Fill half of each +square with one tablespoonful of the prepared meat. Fold remaining half +of square over, first moistening edges with oyster liquor, and press +closely together. Put in buttered bag and bake twenty minutes in hot +oven, reducing the heat after the first ten minutes. + +=English Pasties.=--Cut any cold meat up into small pieces, add a cupful +of sliced potatoes, raw, and an onion chopped fine, some parsley and +pepper and salt to taste. Stew this until the potato is done and thicken +with flour rubbed in butter. Make a crust of flour and salt, using +chopped suet and butter in equal quantities for shortening and a +teaspoonful of baking powder to each quart of flour. Roll the crust out +thin and cut into large discs--the cover of a two quart pail makes a +good pastie cutter. Put two large spoonfuls of the meat mixture on the +crust and roll over, pinching edges together like a fruit turnover. Bag +and bake one-half hour in a hot oven. If there is any of the meat gravy +left serve it with the pasties. + +=Olla Podrida Pie.=--Grease one of the oval wood dishes and line with a +crust about a quarter of an inch thick. Fill with meat scraps of any +sort cut small and heated together in a little stock or gravy, well +seasoned with tomato and powdered herbs. Small leftovers of any +vegetable, peas, corn or cauliflower may also be minced and added with +good effect. Cover with strips of good paste lattice fashion, slip into +a well-greased bag and cook half an hour in a moderate oven. + +=Oyster Bundles.=--Cut generous, uniform slices of cold turkey or veal, +lay a slice of bacon on each, then an oyster on each slice of the bacon. +Roll the three together, fasten with tooth picks and put in buttered +bag. Bake fifteen minutes and serve with potatoes baked in another bag. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +CHEESE AND EGG DISHES. + + +=Cheese Ball With Tomato Sauce.=--MIX together two cupfuls grated +cheese, a cupful of fine bread crumbs, a quarter teaspoonful of salt and +a few grains of cayenne. Then add two eggs beaten stiff, shape in small +balls, roll in crushed cracker crumbs and lay in well-buttered bag. Bake +ten minutes and serve on triangles of buttered toast with tomato sauce. + +=Cheese Fritters to Serve With the Salad Course.=--Beat two eggs, season +with salt, pepper and a suspicion of mustard and then lay in this +seasoned egg as many thin slices of American cheese as it will hold. +Have ready tart apples cored and sliced crosswise without peeling. Put a +slice of cheese between two rounds of apple, sandwich fashion, dip the +sandwiches in the egg, lay in a well-greased paper bag seal and cook ten +minutes. Serve very hot. + +=Pepper Cheese.=--Take green peppers, scorch slightly in hot oven or +over the coals, then remove the outer skin with a sharp knife. Split the +peppers, remove the seeds, and put in their place a small roll of cream +cheese. Roll up again, skewer together with a wooden tooth-pick, dip in +beaten egg and cracker crumbs and put in well-buttered bag. Seal and +bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. + +=Cheese Ramekins.=--Roll out a sheet of pie crust and sprinkle liberally +with grated cheese. Roll up and roll out again. Sprinkle on more cheese +and repeat the rolling. Stamp out with a biscuit cutter (the pastry +should be about a quarter of an inch thick), put in buttered bag and +bake in a hot oven. When done, dip both sides in melted butter and serve +hot. + +=Cheese and Eggs.=--Butter the bottom of a baking dish and cover with +slices of rich cheese. Break several whole eggs over the cheese, taking +care that the whites and yolks do not become separated. Season with salt +and pepper, and pour over all a rich cream, a half tablespoonful to each +egg. + +=Baked Eggs.=--Butter little casseroles or gem pans, and drop an egg in +each. Season with salt and pepper and put a little cream on the top of +each egg. Put in bag, seal and bake five minutes. These are exceedingly +delicate, as the steam being retained they bake quickly, yet do not +become hard. Set each on a plate for serving. + +=Baked Eggs With Cheese.=--Break into a buttered pan the number of eggs +required. Pour over each one tablespoon of rich, sweet cream, sprinkle +over all a thin layer of grated cheese and a few fine rolled crumbs. +Season with salt and pepper, put in bag, seal, and bake about six +minutes. + +=A Paper Bag Omelette.=--Beat two eggs for about five minutes. Add a +dash of salt and pepper and a heaping teaspoonful of flour. Beat again +until flour is well mixed in and add a small cupful of milk. Put a +tablespoonful of minced breakfast bacon into a pie tin, when quite hot +pour egg mixture over it. Put in paper bag, seal, and bake a delicate +brown in a quick oven. Cut in squares and serve immediately. + +=Cheese Omelette.=--A savory of cheese omelette may be made from one egg +if the following recipe is used. Soak one small cupful grated bread +crumbs in two cupfuls of sweet milk into which a pinch of soda has been +dissolved. Beat one egg very light and add to the softened bread. Stir +in one teaspoonful of melted butter and a dash of cayenne. Beat the +whole well, add a small cupful grated cheese and a teaspoonful of salt. +Beat again, turn into a buttered bag, bake twenty minutes and serve at +once. + +=Swiss Eggs.=--For Swiss eggs spread the bottom of a bag with two ounces +of fine American cheese. Place four eggs on the cheese, taking care that +the yolks are not broken. Season with pepper and salt. Pour around the +eggs two tablespoonfuls of rich cream and cover the top with grated +cheese. Put in bag, seal and bake for ten minutes. Garnish with parsley +and serve with fingers of crisp toast. + +=Eggs in Tomato Cups.=--Cut fresh tomatoes in half and scoop out part of +the interior. Fry the tomato cups until half done. Then break into each +of them an egg. Put then in a buttered bag, seal and cook ten minutes. +The tops of the eggs may be sprinkled with minced ham or grated cheese, +or they may be served plain. Season and serve hot. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +VEGETABLES. + + +WHILE no claim is made that all vegetables are improved through paper +bag cookery, experiments prove that quite a number can be successfully +cooked by the paper bag process. Vegetables of strong flavor as a rule +are best cooked in a large quantity of water and are not recommended for +paper bag cookery; only the more delicate vegetables that need to have +their flavors conserved. Dried peas, lentils and beans are excellent +cooked in paper bags but require a longer preliminary soaking than is +usual with other methods of cooking. + +=Asparagus.=--Trim and scrape as for boiling; wash very clean. Tie in +bundles and put into a buttered bag with a little salt and a quarter +cupful of water. Seal and cook from thirty-five to forty minutes in a +hot oven. + +=Asparagus With Cheese.=--Boil two bunches of asparagus twelve minutes +in salted water. Drain, but save the water. Put the asparagus in a +buttered bag or in one of the oval wooden dishes, scattering grated +Swiss or Parmesan cheese between the layers. Turn over all a cup of the +water in which the asparagus was boiled, sprinkle the top of the scallop +with a little cheese and a few buttered bread crumbs. Seal the bag and +cook fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. + +=Lima Beans.=--Add to a quart of shelled Lima beans three tablespoonfuls +of butter or vegetable oil, a quarter pound of diced bacon or ham, a +little minced parsley or other seasoning herbs, and a teaspoonful of +flour. Put in a greased bag with a cupful of water, seal and cook an +hour in a moderate oven. + +=String Beans, Oriental Style.=--String the beans, cut in two +lengthwise, then break in inch pieces. To every pint of beans, which +should be young and tender, allow one cupful boiling water, two +tablespoonfuls vegetable oil, one small onion sliced, and a half cupful +tomato. Salt and pepper to taste. Put all in greased paper bag and cook +forty-five minutes. A wooden cookery dish can be employed to advantage. + +=Boston Baked Bean Cakes.=--These are made of left-over baked beans. +Heat with a little water to moisten, rub through a colander, season with +salt, pepper and mustard. Put a tablespoonful of pork drippings or +butter in a frying pan, and cook in it, when hot, a tablespoonful of +minced onion, taking care not to let it blacken. Add to the beans, make +into cakes and lay in well-greased bag. Cook twenty minutes and serve +with tomato sauce. + +=Bean Croquettes.=--Soak one pint white pea beans or the little brown +Mexican frijoles over night in cold water. In the morning cook until +soft in water to which a saltspoonful of soda has been added, changing +the water after it first comes to a boil. Rub through a colander, then +add to the pulp one cup grated bread crumbs, one tablespoonful minced +parsley, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, two eggs well beaten, one +small onion grated and salt and pepper to season. Mix thoroughly, shape +into cylinders, dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust and put in +buttered bag. Seal and cook ten minutes in hot oven. + +=German Cabbage.=--Take two small hard heads of red cabbage and cut in +slices half an inch thick, discarding the hard stalk and veins. Put onto +a greased wooden cookery bowl two rounding tablespoonfuls of melted +butter or vegetable oil, then add the cabbage, sprinkle with a level +teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and one onion +chopped fine. Put in bag, seal, and put in oven. Bake one hour with only +one burner on after the first ten minutes. + +=Cabbage Hot Slaw.=--Chop a small hard head of cabbage fine and salt it +lightly. Let stand half an hour then put in wooden bowl with two +tablespoonfuls of butter. Put in bag, seal, and cook slowly in the oven +for twenty minutes. No water is necessary, as the salt will draw out the +juices of the cabbage so it will have moisture enough. At the end of +twenty minutes take up with a hot dish, add a teaspoonful of flour that +has been stirred in a little cold water, then cooked until thick with a +half cupful of cream. Lastly, add one tablespoonful of pure vinegar and +serve at once. + +=Carrots.=--Wash and scrape a half dozen tender carrots. Slice thin and +season with salt, pepper and a good tablespoonful of butter. Add a half +cupful good stock, put in a well-greased bag, seal and cook thirty-five +minutes. + +=Carrot Saute.=--Scrape and cook young carrots in boiling salted water +until tender. Cut in halves lengthwise, roll in fine cracker crumbs, +then in egg and cracker again, and put in well-greased bag. Bake fifteen +minutes, sprinkle with fine chopped parsley and serve very hot. + +=Stuffed Eggplant.=--Select purple fruit and of small size. Halve them, +sprinkle them with salt, turn them cut side down on a fine sieve, put a +heavy plate on them and let them drain for an hour. Wipe dry, take from +each a tablespoonful of the center, chop it fine and for each +tablespoonful allow the same amount of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of +chopped onions, olives and vegetable oil, with a little salt and a +dusting of paprika. Mound this dressing on each half, arrange the halves +in a buttered bag, pour in water to the depth of an inch, add a generous +piece of butter, salt and pepper, and place the bag in a hot oven; +twenty minutes should be sufficiently long to cook the eggplant +thoroughly. + +=Lentil Cutlets.=--Soak one cupful dried lentils all night with a cupful +dried lima beans. In the morning drain, add two quarts of water, a stalk +of celery and half an onion sliced. Cook until soft, remove the +seasonings and rub through a puree sieve. Add one cupful stale bread +crumbs, one beaten egg, the juice of a half lemon and seasonings to +taste. Melt a heaping tablespoonful of butter in a small saucepan, add +to it a tablespoonful flour and pour on, when blended, a third of a cup +of milk. Let the mixture cook until thick and smooth, then add to the +lentil mixture and set aside to cool. Shape into small cutlets, dip in +beaten egg, then in fine cracker crumb, put in a well-buttered bag and +bake twenty minutes. Serve with a tomato sauce. + +=Mushrooms.=--Choose fine fat mushrooms, cut the stem close, peel and +wipe delicately with a damp cloth. Sprinkle lightly with salt and lay in +a well-greased bag together with a big tablespoonful of butter rolled in +flour and a half cupful of rich cream. Seal and cook twelve minutes in a +hot oven. + +=Baked Onions.=--Parboil for fifteen minutes Bermuda or Spanish onions, +chill in cold water, then if very large cut in halves, otherwise, cut a +little wedge out of the hearts and fill the cavity with butter or +vegetable oil. Put in the well-greased bag, adding a little water and +more butter or oil, seal and cook twenty minutes. + +=Stuffed Baked Onions.=--The next time you have a roast leg of lamb or +mutton, try baked onions prepared in this way as an accompaniment: Take +large onions, preferably Spanish or Bermudas, peel, cut a slice from the +top of each, and with a small spoon scoop out about half the pulp. Put +this in a dish, mix with it an equal quantity of bread crumbs, well +flavored with chopped parsley, sweet marjoram, salt and pepper. Moisten +the whole lightly with cream and a little melted butter; mix well, fill +the onion cavities with the stuffing, crown with a slice of bacon for a +cover, put in a bag and bake one hour in a moderate oven. + +=Onions With Cheese.=--Skin large Spanish onions and boil until quite +soft. Press through a sieve and put into a well-buttered wooden baking +dish. Season with salt, pepper and plenty of butter, add a little stock +or milk, grate a little cheese over them, put in bag and bake to a +golden brown. + +=Parsnips.=--Scrape and parboil some parsnips. Cut in two lengthwise. +Season with pepper and salt, roll in melted butter, dripping or olive +oil. Flour again and place in a well-greased paper bag. Seal up and bake +in a hot oven on a wire rack for half an hour. They should be a golden +brown. + +=Green Peas.=--Shell the peas, put into a well-buttered bag with a +little salt to season, a little sprig of green mint and a half cupful of +water. Seal and cook twenty-five minutes. Slit open the bag, pour its +contents into a hot dish, season well with butter and serve. + +=Stuffed Peppers.=--In preparing peppers for stuffing, select those of +uniform size, wash and plunge in boiling water for about ten minutes; +then drop into cold water to keep them green; cut off the stem ends and +scoop out the seeds and inside of the peppers; fill with any of the +following stuffings or a combination of your own devising. + +Stuffing No. 1. Wash half a cup of rice; cover with boiling water and +cook rapidly for ten minutes; then turn into a sieve to drain. Peel +three large tomatoes, removing the seeds and cutting the pulp in small +pieces. When fresh tomatoes are out of season, their equivalent in +canned may be used. Mix the rice and tomatoes together; add two +tablespoonfuls of olive oil or melted butter and season with salt. Fill +the drained peppers with the mixture, sprinkling a few buttered crumbs +over the top and replace the covers. Oil the peppers on the outside, and +set in a buttered bag. Turn enough stock into the bag to come half way +up the sides of the peppers (if you have no stock use hot water in which +a tablespoonful of kitchen bouquet has been dissolved and several slices +of onion and carrot added), and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters +of an hour. Rice that has been left over from dinner may be used, +leaving the tomatoes out and seasoning with chopped celery, parsley, +salt and pepper. When done, dish on a hot platter and pour a rich brown +sauce over them, scattering a little minced parsley over the top. A +wooden cookery dish is advised here. + +Stuffing No. 2. For eight good sized peppers take a pint of chopped +meat, veal or chicken, or veal mixed with sausage, a cupful of soft +bread crumbs and a cup of stock, gravy or water in which a spoonful of +beef extract has been dissolved. Season with an even teaspoonful each +of salt and pepper and half teaspoonful each summer savory, thyme and +sage. Mix well, fill the peppers, sprinkle fine buttered bread crumbs +over them at the end where the stuffing is exposed, put in a buttered +bag and bake until well browned. This will take about a quarter of an +hour. Serve with chicken or roast beef, and with or without a sauce. + +=Peppers With Creamed Fish.=--Parboil the peppers ten minutes, then fill +with creamed fish of any kind, which may be seasoned with a +tablespoonful of sherry. Then sprinkle with a layer of fine crumbs, dot +with butter, bag, and brown lightly in a quick oven. Creamed carrots, +cauliflower, sprouts, and many other vegetables may be baked in the +pepper cups and served either as a vegetable or an entree. Filled with +potatoes au gratin and browned they are a delicious accompaniment for +chops and steaks. + +=Baked Irish Potatoes.=--Scrub thoroughly and rinse as many good sized +potatoes as will be required. Make a few slits in them but do not peel. +Place in the paper bag with a tablespoonful of water, close tightly and +cook from thirty-five to fifty minutes, according to size. + +=Baked Potatoes Without Their Coats or Jackets.=--Select as many +potatoes of the same size as desired. Peel and let them stand in salted, +cold water for ten minutes. Then drain without drying and place in a +greased bag,--bacon fat is good for these potatoes--and cook in a hot +oven, without disturbing, for forty-five minutes if small, one hour, if +large. They will have a crisp, brown coat, every part of which can be +eaten. + +=Potatoes en Surprise.=--Choose potatoes of smooth shape, not too large +and of even size. Scrape out from the top of each a space large enough +to hold the yolk of an egg. Salt and pepper the nest, drop in a tiny bit +of butter, then the egg yolk, follow with a thin slice of bacon just +large enough to cover the egg and set in greased paper bag. If necessary +to keep them upright cut a thin slice from the bottom of each potato, +add a spoonful of cold water, seal, set in a hot oven and cook for +thirty minutes. + +=Potatoes Farci.=--A new and very delicious way of serving stuffed +potatoes is as follows: Wash large potatoes and bake in bag until nearly +done; take from the oven and nearly cut off one end, leaving the skin +for a hinge and a bit of potato for a lid. Pull out the undone heart +with a fork and in its place lay shavings of smoked bacon, peppered and +tightly rolled after having been laid for an instant on a hot frying +pan; close the potato and set in the oven to finish cooking. + +=Sauer Kraut.=--Put enough to serve six people in one of the largest +size wood cookery dishes, salt and season to taste, add a half cupful of +water, put in bag, seal, and bake one hour in moderate oven. + +=Waldorf Sauer Kraut.=--Soak the sauer kraut in cold water until just +palatably salt. Put into greased paper bag on a wooden cookery dish with +a little bacon, pickled pork or sausage, add a half cupful of hot water +and cook about twenty minutes. Drain, put in a hot dish with or without +the meat as desired and serve. When boiled sauer kraut is cold it may be +chopped and reheated in a buttered bag with butter, gravy or a white +sauce. + +=Sweet Potatoes and Bacon.=--Peel boiled sweet potatoes, fasten a slice +of bacon around each, using a wooden tooth pick to hold in place. Put in +buttered bag with a spoonful of water, and bake ten minutes. + +=Sweet Potato Straws.=--Cut potatoes in slices lengthwise, peel, then +cut into straws. Dip in bacon fat or melted butter, put in buttered bag, +seal, and cook fifteen minutes. Take out on soft paper to absorb any +grease, dust lightly with salt and serve. + +=Sweet Potato en Brochette.=--Peel and cut in half inch, uniform slices. +Put on skewers in groups of four, place in boiling water and parboil ten +minutes. Drain, brush over with vegetable oil, sprinkle with brown +sugar, put in greased bag and bake twenty minutes in moderate oven. + +=Spinach.=--Pick over carefully, thoroughly wash, then put into a bag, +leaving the vegetable quite damp. Add a little salt, seal and cook +thirty minutes. Before lifting the bag from the oven slide a pan under +it, and prick the bottom of the bag so the water will drain out. Dish, +adding butter to season and serve. + +=Summer Squash in Butter.=--Cut into narrow strips and season with salt +and pepper. Put into well-greased bag, add a generous lump of butter and +cook about half an hour. + +=Stuffed Summer Squash.=--Boil in lightly salted water until tender. Cut +off the top and scoop out the inside. Mix well with seasoned and +buttered crumbs, chopped onion and grated cheese. Fill the shell, +sprinkle the top with buttered crumbs, put in bag and bake until brown. + +=Stuffed Tomatoes With Cream.=--Mix together three-quarters of a cupful +of cold-chopped chicken or veal, three tablespoonfuls of soft bread +crumbs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, one teaspoonful of chopped +parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt and quarter teaspoonful of paprika. +Wash and wipe six medium-sized tomatoes, take a small piece from the +stem end, carefully remove a portion of the pulp, and fill the hole with +the stuffing; place in a buttered bag and cook for thirty minutes in a +moderate oven. Remove to a hot platter, whip three tablespoonfuls of +rich cream, add to it two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and pour a +small portion over each tomato. + +=Turnips.=--Peel and slice your turnips and put them in a well-greased +bag with a light seasoning of salt, a lump of butter barely dusted with +flour, and enough thin stock to half cover them. Seal and cook in a +moderate oven for an hour more or less according to the tenderness of +the vegetable. Empty into a hot dish and if not rich enough add more +butter, and dust with black pepper and salt. + +=Turnip Balls.=--Peel fine grained turnips, then cut into balls, using a +vegetable scoop. Put into a well-greased bag with a light seasoning of +salt, a little sugar, a dusting of pepper, a tablespoonful of butter or +vegetable oil and a quarter cupful of hot water, seal, and cook half an +hour until tender, but not brown. Take up, add a half cupful hot cream +sauce, stir lightly in it, sprinkle with minced parsley and serve very +hot. + +=Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas.=--Choose tender vine leaves and scald +them, after which roll a little of the following stuffing in each leaf, +making it round and firm so that the stuffing will not come out when the +balls are boiled. Chop three onions, put a teacupful of good salad oil +in a stewing-pan, and, when it is boiling hot, throw in the chopped +onion. As soon as this begins to cook, add a small cupful of Carolina +rice, some chopped parsley and mint, salt and pepper and a tablespoonful +of currants and mix well on the fire till the rice begins to brown. +Then take a vine leaf in your left hand and wrong side upward and put a +little of this prepared rice into it. Put some of the coarse vine leaves +at the bottom of the paper bag and arrange each little ball beside its +neighbor, packing them rather tightly. When this is done, put in +sufficient water just to cover the dolmas, add a little oil, seal the +bag and bake till the rice is soft and the water is all absorbed. This +is a very delicate and characteristic dish, but will be a failure if the +vine leaves are not tender or the oil is rancid. Serve with lemon. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC. + + +=Baking Powder Bread.=--SIFT together, five times over, four quarts of +flour, six rounded teaspoonfuls baking powder and four level +teaspoonfuls salt. Have the oven quite hot. Add to the sifted flour +enough milk and water in nearly equal proportions, to make a moist, not +wet, dough, stiff enough to handle, then divide into four portions, +mould lightly into shape and put into brick shaped pans. Brush over the +tops with milk, put into bags and bake an hour. + +=Bannocks.=--Sift together one pint of corn meal, one tablespoonful of +sugar and a teaspoonful of salt. Pour over the mixture enough milk or +milk and water to moisten. Let stand until cool, then add three +well-beaten eggs, spread half an inch thick in well-greased bag. Seal +and bake in hot oven. Cut into squares, split and serve hot and +well-buttered. + +=Baking Powder Biscuits.=--Sift together three times over one quart of +flour, two rounded teaspoonfuls baking powder, and a teaspoonful of +salt. Rub in with the tips of the fingers one rounding tablespoonful +vegetable shortening or butter, and when the flour feels mealy, add +slowly a cup and a half of milk or milk and water mixed. Mix lightly +with little handling, turn out on board, roll into a sheet half an inch +in thickness, stamp out with small round cutter and lay in greased bag. +Brush the top of each biscuit with milk. Seal and bake twenty minutes in +a very hot oven. + +=Egg Biscuits.=--To make these delicious biscuits, beat one egg until +light, then mix with it two-thirds of a cupful of milk. Add to one pint +of flour a heaping teaspoonful baking powder and one-half teaspoonful +salt, and sift. Blend with the mixture one tablespoonful of butter and +two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add the egg mixture, make into a dough and +knead lightly. Roll into a sheet a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out +with a round cutter, brush over the top of each biscuit with cream, +prick with a fork, bag, and bake in a hot oven. + +=Maple Biscuits.=--Make a very rich baking powder biscuit dough and roll +out to half the thickness of biscuits, cut out with a small cutter, +sprinkle grated maple sugar over the tops of half of them, moisten the +under sides of the others and lay them on top of the sugared ones, +pressing them on well. Lay close together in a bag, brush over with milk +or melted butter, seal and bake in a quick oven. + +=Nut Biscuits.=--Sift together two cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful +of salt, and a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. + +Rub in one heaping tablespoonful of butter or vegetable shortening, and +add one cupful of nuts, pecans, hickory or English walnuts chopped and a +tablespoonful of sugar. Mix to a soft dough with milk or milk and water, +mould with the hands into small balls, place in a greased bag, brush +each biscuit over with milk or melted butter, put a pinch of chopped +nuts on each, seal and bake in a hot oven. + +=Raisin Biscuits.=--These are excellent for home luncheon or the +children's school or picnic lunch. Sift together one quart of flour, a +half teaspoonful of salt and two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. +Work into the sifted flour a cupful of shortening, then add a cupful +each seedless raisins and milk. Mix well and roll out on the molding +board. Cut in small round biscuits, bag, and bake in a quick oven. + +=Hot Cross Buns.=--Sift together one quart of pastry flour, three +teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub into the +flour a piece of butter the size of an egg. Mix together a cupful each +of milk and water and add one cupful of sugar. Stir into the flour, add +two beaten eggs, and mix soft. Cut into small biscuits, make the cross +on the top of each, bag, and bake in a very hot oven. Sift powdered +sugar over them as soon as taken from the bag. A half cupful chopped +raisins or currants may be added to the dough if desired. + +=Warmed Over Breads.=--It is a trick worth knowing that cold biscuit, +rolls, gems and the like can be brushed over with water, put in a +greased paper bag, sealed and set in the oven for eight minutes to +emerge as fresh as though just newly baked. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +CAKES. + + +CAKES baked in paper bags will be as brown as if baked without the bag +and will retain their moisture infinitely better; therefore plain loaf +cakes and all fruit cakes are greatly improved by the paper bag cooking. +While drop cakes, oatmeal cookies and the like can be baked directly on +the bottom of the bag, better results as far as form is concerned, will +come from using very thin tin moulds or baking sheets or paper souffle +cases. Before putting a cake in the oven, particularly if it be a fruit +cake, it will be found advisable to set on the bottom of the oven, a +shallow pan with a little water in it. Put in the bag, close the oven +door and leave ten minutes with the gas on, then reduce the heat at +least one-half. Bag cooking prevents cake crusting over and thereby +permits it to rise to its full height. It also saves from burning. +Midway in the baking the position of cakes can be changed, those on the +grid itself set low on the broiler and vice versa so all will cook +evenly. To test whether the cake is done or no, make a hole in the bag +top and thrust in a clean straw or thin knife blade. If it comes out dry +with no stickiness, the cake is done. + +=Cheese Cakes.=--These are a modern adaptation of the old "flawns," a +favorite Eastertide cake. As formerly made, there was a tedious +separation of curds and whey; but the housewife of today eliminates that +by taking a Neufchatel or cream cheese as the foundation. This is +crumbled fine and added to the other ingredients, allowing to each +Neufchatel cheese, one small cupful of sugar, the grated rind and half +the juice of one lemon, a half cupful each sifted cracker crumbs and +currants, one tablespoonful melted butter, half a nutmeg grated, half a +cupful of cream or rich milk, a saltspoonful of salt and four eggs. +Crumble the cheese and crackers together, beat the eggs and add, +together with sugar, salt and spices. Next add the butter and cream and +lastly the currants, lemon juice and rind. Mix thoroughly and fill patty +tins lined with puff paste. Ornament the top with currants and slender +strips of citron, put in buttered bag. Seal and bake in a quick oven. + +=Cinnamon Cake.=--Cream one-quarter cup of butter and one cup of sugar, +add one-half cup of milk, one well beaten egg, one and three-quarters +cups of flour sifted twice with three even teaspoons of baking powder, +and pour in a shallow pan to make a sheet rather than a loaf. Just +before setting the cake into the oven sprinkle cinnamon and granulated +sugar over the top. Put into a bag. Seal and bake twenty minutes. Serve +fresh and cut in squares. + +=English Fairy Cakes.=--Sift together six ounces of flour and a half +teaspoonful of baking powder. Grate a lemon rind and add to the sifted +flour together with three ounces chopped candied cherries. Beat to a +cream four ounces of butter and four of sugar, then add three eggs one +at a time, beating thoroughly. Add the flour and cherry mixture and stir +lightly. Have ready some buttered patty-tins, half fill with the batter, +bag, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. + +=Fruit Cookies.=--One cupful and one-half of sugar, either white or +brown, one cupful of butter and lard or vegetable shortening, (half and +half is good) three tablespoonfuls of molasses, the same amount of hot +water, three eggs, one cupful of raisins, one teaspoonful each of soda +(dissolved in hot water), ginger and cinnamon, a light sprinkling of +cloves, and flour to make very stiff. Half a cupful or more of chopped +nut meats makes a nice addition, but is not necessary. + +Cream the sugar and shortening, as for cake, then add eggs well beaten, +molasses and water, spices and soda, then flour, and lastly fruit. When +the batter will take up no more flour, lift it up by teaspoonfuls, pat +it flat and in shape in the baking pan, which must be well-buttered, put +in bag, and bake in fairly hot oven, being careful not to scorch. + +This will be found much easier than rolling the dough on a board, and +will make about forty cookies. + +=Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Gingerbread.=--In a symposium on gingerbreads held +one Summer afternoon at Sunapee Inn, New Hampshire, this was given as an +example of a most delicate inexpensive cake. Add to one cupful molasses, +one cupful softened butter or lard, filling up the cup in which it is +measured with boiling water. Add two even teaspoonfuls soda, a small +teaspoonful of ginger, a pinch of salt, one beaten egg, and two heaping +cupfuls sifted flour. Beat lightly (not too much lest it make the ginger +bread light colored), put in bag and bake in a moderate oven. + +=Good Friday Cake.=--This is a simple tea cake, not very sweet, and is +served hot or cold as preferred. To make it, beat to a cream a scant +cupful of butter and a quarter cupful of sugar. Add a teaspoonful of +the grated yellow rind of lemon, a half teaspoonful of lemon juice, a +pound of flour and enough water to make a stiff paste. Divide the dough +into two equal parts and roll into large, round cakes about the size of +an ordinary pie tin. Mark the edges with a "jigger" into some fancy +design, or simply pinch with the fingers. Cut each cake into quarters, +brush over with the white of an egg, lay a strip of candied lemon peel +on each, sprinkle with granulated sugar put in bag, and bake. + +=German Honey Cakes.=--These are fine for luncheon or the kaffee klatch. +Put into a saucepan two cupfuls strained honey and one cupful sugar. +Warm, add a cupful of butter and a half tablespoonful soda dissolved in +a little warm water. Add a half cupful caraway seed and flour to roll. +Roll into a rather thick sheet, mark into squares, put in bag, and bake. +When done cut in small cakes. + +=Pecan Kisses.=--Into the whites of six eggs put fourteen little more +than level tablespoonfuls white sugar and beat long and thoroughly until +stiff enough to stand alone. Have ready a small cup pecan kernels having +them in as perfect halves as possible. Beat in lightly, drop in greased +baking sheet, put in bag. Seal and bake in a moderate oven. + +=Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake.=--Beat to a cream one and one-half cupfuls +sugar and one-half cupful of butter. Add the yolks of three eggs beaten +until light and thin. Add two and one-half cupfuls flour measured after +sifting with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Lastly fold in +the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs and flavor to taste. Put in +light tin, set in paper bag. Seal and bake thirty-five minutes. + +=Hickory Nut Macaroons.=--To one whole egg beaten light, add one cup +sugar and beat well. Add two tablespoonfuls flour and one cup nut meats +and lastly fold in the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs. Drop by +spoonfuls into a well-greased bag and bake in a moderate oven ten or +twelve minutes. + +=Walnut Macaroons.=--One and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-third cup of +butter, three eggs, three cups of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, +dissolved in water, one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of +cinnamon, one cup of English walnut meats, one cup of chopped dates. Do +not roll the mixture as in ordinary cookies, but drop into a greased bag +with a spoon. Seal and bake slowly for thirty minutes. + +=Maple Sugar Cake.=--Add to one cup maple syrup one beaten egg, a pinch +of salt, one cup of thick, sour cream, into which has been stirred a +teaspoonful (scant) of soda, a teaspoonful of ginger and flour to make a +thin batter. Bake in a bag and cut in squares. + +=Molasses Coffee Cake.=--Then right here let me give you a recipe for a +fruit cake or gingerbread with fruit as you may elect to call it. Cream +together one cupful of sugar and three-fourths cup of butter. Add one +cupful black molasses, one cupful strong coffee with a teaspoonful of +soda dissolved in it, four beaten eggs, one teaspoonful each cinnamon +and nutmeg, three-fourths teaspoonful cloves, one half pound shredded +citron and three cupfuls sifted flour. Do not beat longer than +necessary. Put in tin, then in bag, and bake in a slow oven. + +=Nut Cake.=--To make a light, delicious cake, cream together one cup of +sugar and five tablespoons of melted butter. Into this beat two well +beaten eggs, a pinch of salt and a cup of milk. Stir into this two +heaping cupfuls of flour, sifted with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking +powder. After this is well beaten, stir in three-quarters of a cup of +chopped walnuts. Bake in square cake tin in bag. Ice when cold with +plain pulverized sugar icing. Cut in squares, placing a piece of walnut +meat on each square. + +=Oatmeal Cakes.=--Beat to a cream three-fourths cupful vegetable +shortening or butter and a cupful and a half of brown sugar. Dissolve +one teaspoonful of soda in one cupful of boiling water and add to butter +and sugar mixture. Mix together two cupfuls of dry oatmeal, two cupfuls +of flour and a half teaspoonful of salt and add to the other +ingredients. Flavor to taste. Lastly add two well beaten eggs and drop +from spoon into greased bag or flat tin and place in bag. Seal and bake +in moderate oven about fifteen minutes. + +=German Peach Cake.=--Make a rich baking powder biscuit dough and roll +out in sheets to fit a long biscuit pan. It should not be more than a +half-inch thick. Brush the top with butter and cover with slices of +peach arranged in symmetrical overlapping rows, or half peaches with the +rounded side up. Sprinkle generously with sugar, cover with another tin +to prevent the fruit from becoming mushy or hardened, put in bag and +bake about half an hour in a hot oven. This is a good substitute for +peach pie. + +=Pork Cake.=--This is an old New England dish that has been relegated to +the background these many years, but is lately coming to the fore. A +gray haired New York physician, dining at my house the other night, +declared that his old Connecticut aunt's pork cake was one of the +dearest remembered gustatorial delights of his boyhood. + +To make it chop one pound of fat pork fine. Pour over it a pint of +boiling water, then stir in three cupfuls brown sugar, one pound of +seeded raisins, eight cupfuls of flour and two rounding teaspoonfuls of +soda dissolved in a little water. Add a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a half +teaspoonful cloves and nutmeg, mix thoroughly and bake in a slow oven +like fruit cake. If preferred, two beaten eggs may be added in which +case less flour will be required. + +=Potato Chocolate Cake.=--To two cupfuls of sugar and two-thirds cup +butter beaten to a cream, add yolks of four eggs beaten until lemon +colored and light and a half cupful of sweet milk. Next add a +teaspoonful of soda dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of hot water, one +cup mashed potato, two cups of flour, and four squares of chocolate +melted, one cup chopped walnuts, a teaspoonful of vanilla. Lastly fold +in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs. This may be baked either in a +large loaf or in layers in a paper bag. + +=Potato Caramel Cake.=--Beat to a cream two-thirds cup of butter and two +cups of sugar, add the yolks of four eggs beaten until light and mix +with a half cup of sweet milk and one cup mashed potato. Add two squares +of bitter chocolate melted, one-half teaspoonful nutmeg, and two cups +flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Fold in whites of four +eggs beaten stiff, a cupful of nut meats, preferably English walnuts, +chopped. Bake slowly for about an hour in a gingerbread tin in paper +bag, making the cake an inch and a half or two inches thick; or else in +layer tins together with white icing. This will make four layers. + +=Auburn Pound Cake.=--Beat to a cream three-fourths pounds of butter and +one pound fine granulated sugar. Add the yolks of nine eggs beaten light +and one pound flour measured after sifting and then sifted again with a +teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. Fold in the stiffly whipped +whites and flavor with vanilla, almond or the grated rind and juice of a +lemon or a wine glass of sherry. Pour into well-buttered thin tin mould +and seal in bags. Bake an hour and a quarter or an hour and a half in a +moderate oven. + +=Raisin Nut Cakes.=--For raisin nut cakes for afternoon tea, beat six +eggs lightly, beating the whites and with an even teaspoon of soda, one +teaspoon of sugar creamed with a cupful of butter, a cupful and a half +of milk and three cupfuls and a half of flour. Add a cupful of chopped +walnuts, two pounds of chopped raisins, a wineglass of brandy, two +teaspoonfuls of baking powder and spice to taste. Make into small cakes, +put on tin in bag and bake in a moderate oven. + +=Sour Cream Cake.=--Beat together one cup of powdered sugar and one cup +of sour cream, add two eggs beaten light, one and one-half cups of flour +sifted twice with an even teaspoon of soda twice, one teaspoon of +vanilla and one cup of seeded and cut raisins rolled lightly in flour. +Beat to make the batter creamy and bake at once in a rather shallow pan +sealed in a paper bag. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +FRUITS. + + +=Baked Apples.=--WASH, but do not peel; cut out specks and bruises, +core, fill the bottom of the core-space with a bit of butter, over which +pile sugar and add a dusting of cinnamon. A clove stuck in the side may +take the place of the cinnamon. Seal inside a well-greased bag and bake +eighteen to twenty minutes in a fairly hot oven. Serve hot with sugar +and cream or a hard sauce. + +=Baked Apple Dumplings.=--Make a regular shortcake crust, using one pint +of flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder and a saltspoonful of salt, +sifted together three times, one-quarter cup butter rubbed in with the +tips of the fingers, and one egg beaten and mixed with three-quarters +cup milk. Roll out and cut in five-inch squares. Have ready three large +apples, peeled, cored and halved and lay each piece on a square of the +paste. Fold the pastry over each apple like a blanket, lapping the four +corners at the top and pressing them down firmly. Turn the dumplings +upside down in a well-buttered bag, dot with bits of butter and sprinkle +with sugar. Set the bag in a quick oven and bake to a russet brown. This +will take about half an hour. Serve with any sweet sauce, or rich, sweet +cream. + +=Cold Baked Apples With Rum.=--Peel, core and bake the apples in a +buttered bag, with a teaspoonful of sugar to each apple. Put in the +serving dish, and while still very hot pour over each a dessertspoonful +of rum. Let cool and serve with cake or crisped water biscuit. + +=Cinnamon Apples.=--Peel, core and quarter six good cooking apples, +preferably greenings. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a warm bowl and +stir the apples in it until coated with the butter. Mix a teaspoonful of +ground cinnamon with a half cup of granulated sugar, and stir into the +apples. Have a paper bag thoroughly buttered and put the apples in it. +Rinse out the bowl with a cup of hot water, add it to the apples, seal +carefully, place on a broiler which rests on a pie plate and bake in a +hot oven fifteen minutes. Half a pint of whipped cream over the apples +when served is an addition, but they are delicious, cooked in this way, +without it. + +=Apples Stuffed With Figs.=--Steam tender as many figs as you desire, +chop into dice and roll each piece in powdered sugar seasoned with +cinnamon. Core large, tart apples and fill the cavities with the figs. +Bag and bake in a hot oven, adding a little hot water. When tender, +remove carefully to the serving dish and pour over them a syrup made by +boiling a half cup of sugar with an equal quantity of water. Flavor to +taste and pour over the apples. Serve cold with whipped or plain cream. + +=Baked Apples and Nuts.=--For a half dozen large apples a good +three-fourths cup of nut meats, butternuts, black walnuts or hickory +nuts--will be required. Chop the meats fine and add a half cup of sugar. +Core the apples and fill the centres with the nuts and sugar. Put in a +rather deep pan, with a cupful of boiling water added, bag and bake. +When tender remove carefully, place in a pretty dish, pour the juice +over the apples, and crown with whipped cream or a meringue made from +the whites of two eggs. + +=Raisin Apples.=--A simple dessert enjoyed by the children consists of +apples, cored and each cavity filled with sugar, nutmeg, a bit of butter +and two or three raisins. Add one cupful of hot water, put in bag and +bake in a slow oven. This may be varied occasionally by placing a +meringue on the top of each apple when done, and cooking in a slow oven +for seven minutes longer. Serve cold. + +=Baked Apple Sauce.=--Peel and core firm apples of good flavor. Stick +three cloves in each and put bits of mace and cinnamon in the core +spaces. Put them in a well-buttered bag with two heaping cupfuls of +sugar and a half cupful of water. Cook thirty minutes. Have the oven +very hot at first, but slack heat after seven minutes. Lemon juice +instead of water makes a richer flavored sauce. In that case add a half +cupful more sugar at the outset. + +=Baked Bananas.=--Peel and remove coarse threads, cut the pulp in halves +lengthwise, dust with sugar and sprinkle with lemon juice, put in +buttered bag and bake fifteen minutes, or roll the bananas in hot +marmalade, then bake. + +=Stuffed Dates.=--Select large, fine fruit, wash quickly and remove the +pit. Put into the cavity a bit of crystallized ginger or citron, a nut +or little candied peel, roll in confectioner's sugar and lay in lightly +buttered bag left open at one end. Put in coolish oven to harden. + +=Baked Gooseberries.=--Put into a greased bag a pint of "topped and +tailed" gooseberries, add a cupful each sugar and water, seal and cook +twenty minutes. + +=Baked Peaches.=--Pour boiling water over the fruit, then rub off the +skins and place in buttered bag without removing the pits. Add a +teaspoonful of water for each peach, seal and bake about twenty minutes +in a hot oven. When done, sweeten to taste and set aside to chill before +using. Serve with sweet cream. + +=Baked Pears.=--Select ripe, fine-flavored fruit, snip out the blossom +end and stick in a clove. If the skin is thin, do not peel, but if +tough, remove, put in buttered bag with a little water, seal and cook +from fifteen to thirty minutes according to the quality of the fruit. + +=Baked Plums.=--Put in buttered bag with a little water and cook twenty +or twenty-five minutes. Sweeten to taste when done. + +=Baked Quinces.=--Wash, core and peel, fill the centers with sugar and +put in greased bag with two tablespoonfuls of water allowed for each +quince. Seal and bake slowly for an hour, until the quince is tender but +not mushy. Serve with the quince syrup and a spoonful of whipped cream +on top of each quince. + +=Baked Raisins.=--Remove stems, clean well, put in a colander and wash +thoroughly. Put in buttered bag with a cupful of water for each cupful +of raisins. Seal and cook slowly for half an hour. A mixture of dried +apricots, prunes and cherries is nice with the raisins, but these fruits +need long soaking in cold water before adding to the raisins and +cooking. + +=Chestnut Patties.=--Beat together, until smooth, one egg and one cupful +of pulverized sugar. Add one cupful of chestnut meats that have been put +through a nut grinder, five tablespoonfuls of flour and one teaspoonful +of baking powder. Beat lightly, then drop by spoonfuls on buttered tins. +Dust with pulverized sugar and cinnamon. Put in bag and bake in a quick +oven. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +PASTRY. + + +USE tin or agate pie plates for paper bag cookery. Line with a delicate +crust, and prick the bottom with a fork. Turn in whatever filling you +elect to have, and put on top crust or the latticed bars. Cut a cross in +the center of a solid crust and turn back the points or prick with a +fork. Any pie can be baked in a paper bag with advantage. Cook two pies +at once, shifting midway in the cooking from the upper to the lower +shelves and vice versa. Have the oven hot when the pies go in, but +reduce the heat as soon as the bag corners turn brown. Average pies +require about half an hour for the baking. + +=Plain Pie Crust.=--For each pie allow a heaping cupful of pastry flour +and sift into a cold bowl with a half teaspoonful of salt and a +saltspoonful of baking powder. Have ready a quarter cupful of butter +that has been washed in cold water, then chilled on the ice. Work into +the sifted flour a quarter cupful of lard or vegetable shortening, using +the tips of the fingers or a case knife. As soon as the flour begins to +feel like coarse meal, moisten to a dough with cold water. Add a little +at a time, handling the crust as lightly as possible. It will take about +a quarter of a cupful of water to a heaping cupful of flour. Toss on a +smooth board, dredged lightly with flour, pat and roll a quarter of an +inch in thickness, keeping the sheet of paste a little wider than it is +long. Now place the chilled butter on the center of the lower half of +the paste and cover by folding the upper part of the sheet over it. +Press the edges together so as to inclose as much air as possible. Fold +the right side of the paste over the inclosed butter and the left side +under. Turn the paste half way around, pat into shape and roll out +lightly having the sheet of paste longer than it is wide, and lifting +often to prevent its sticking to the board. Dredge slightly with flour +when necessary. Fold again so as to make three layers, divide in halves, +pat and roll out the one intended for the lower crust having it a little +larger than the pie plate, to allow for shrinkage. Fold back the rolled +out crust and readjust in the pie tin letting it come well up over the +edge, then pressing back. Turn in the filling then roll out the upper +crust. When this reaches the required size, fold over and perforate the +center, piercing with a fork or using a knife to make any pattern +desired, and place in position over the pie. + +=Apple Pie.=--Peel and slice thin, tart, well flavored apples. Put in +crust, sprinkle with sugar, dust with cinnamon or nutmeg, cover with +latticed or full crust, put in bag, and bake half an hour in a steady +oven. + +=A New Apple Pie.=--Peel and core about eight or ten apples or as many +as are wanted. Make a rich pastry dough and cut in strips about two +inches wide. Wind a strip around each apple, but do not cover it. Fill +the center of each apple with butter, sugar and water. Sprinkle with +nutmeg, put in bag, then in the oven and bake. Serve with or without +cream. + +=Deep Apple Pie With Cream Cheese.=--Bake a nice apple pie about +three-quarters of an hour before dinner. Have a small cream cheese +pressed through a ricer and mixed with a cup of whipped cream and a +little salt. Press through a pastry tube or tin funnel on top of the +pie in a pattern, and serve warm for dessert. The cheese and cream +combination may also be used on a two crust apple pie. + +=Cranberry Pie.=--Line a rather deep pie plate with a plain crust. Put +on a border of richer paste, fill with cranberries cooked according to +directions for stewed cranberries, and put strips of crust over the top, +making squares or diamonds as preferred. Put in bag and bake. + +=Cranberry and Raisin Pie.=--Allow to each pie a cup and a half +cranberries and a half cup of raisins. The latter should be seeded and +the berries washed and cut in two. Mix with them a cup of sugar, a +tablespoon of flour, and a teaspoonful of butter. Fill a pie plate lined +with crust, heaping up slightly in the middle. Cover with an upper +crust, bag, and bake in a hot oven. + +=Lemon Pie.=--Beat the yolks of three eggs lightly, add one cup of sugar +slowly and then the juice and grated yellow rind of one lemon. Beat hard +and stir in two even tablespoons of flour made smooth in one cup of +milk. Turn into a paste lined plate and bake about half an hour in a +paper bag. Cool partly and cover with the whites of three eggs beaten +stiff with six even tablespoons of powdered sugar. Pile roughly and set +in a very cool oven to become firm. + +=Mince Pie.=--A simple rule for making mince meat by measure, calls for +a pint bowl of well cooked beef chopped to the finest mince and measured +after chopping, two bowls of tart apples chopped into coarse bits and a +half bowl chopped suet. Add to this a pound of seeded raisins, also +chopped, a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of citron cut in thin +slices, a tablespoonful each of powdered cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. +Use enough sweet cider to make moist, then add a bowl of sugar and an +even teaspoonful salt. Scald well and put away in a stone jar. When you +make the pies add a few whole raisins, chopped nut meats or any jelly +you have on hand. + +When mince pie is to be reheated for dinner and served hot, grated +cheese may be sprinkled over the top just before setting it in the oven +to heat. + +=Mock Mince Pie.=--To four quarts green tomatoes, chopped fine, allow +three pounds brown sugar, the juice of two lemons and their yellow rind, +grated, a tablespoonful each cinnamon, allspice and salt, half a +teaspoonful cloves and a tablespoonful of grated nutmeg. Put into a +porcelain lined kettle and simmer gently until reduced one half in bulk. +Now add two pounds and one-half seeded raisins, or part raisins and part +currants or chopped prunes and a cup of boiled cider. Then cook an hour +or two longer until thick. Bake as any mince pie. + +=Pecan Pie With One Crust.=--One cup of sugar, three eggs, one cup of +sweet cream, one cup of pecans well mashed. Beat very light, pour into +two pie pans that are lined with good rich paste, put in bag and bake. + +=Real Old Fashioned Pumpkin Pie.=--If you are fortunate enough to get a +genuine old fashioned field pumpkin, you may be thankful. If forbidden +that privilege, the canned pumpkin or the dried pumpkin flour, or again +a Hubbard squash or a big yellow one, may be so manipulated as to +deceive even a connoisseur on pumpkin pies, into thinking he has the +very kind that "Mother used to make," and giving thanks accordingly. If +the field pumpkin is yours, wash, cut up without peeling, scrape out all +the wooly fiber, then put over the fire on the back of the stove. Add +just a little water to keep it from sticking on the bottom, cover +closely and steam gently for six or eight hours. At the end of this time +the pumpkin pulp should be thoroughly cooked in its own juices. Take up, +cool a little, then pull off the skin with a sharp knife. Press through +a sieve and let it stand overnight in a press so as to remove the +superfluous liquid, which should be saved to use in making Boston brown +bread. When ready to bake, measure the pulp and to every five cupfuls +allow one teaspoonful of salt, half a grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of +mace, two teaspoonfuls of ginger and a large cupful of sugar. Beat four +eggs and stir into the pumpkin pulp, together with four cupfuls of sweet +milk and a half cupful cream. Beat well and taste to see if it is sweet +enough. Turn into plates lined with good pastry, bag, and bake +three-quarters of an hour until a golden brown and firm in the center. +Serve with good American cheese. Some old-fashioned cooks like their +pumpkin pies flavored with a little rose water. + +In making pies of the canned pumpkin, observe the same proportions. If +the pumpkin flour is used, spread on a tin and brown before adding the +milk. + +The English fashion of baking pumpkin as well as mince pies in +individual shells, is preferred by many who do not feel the compelling +force of tradition. A new wrinkle for the woman who holds to her pumpkin +pie for Thanksgiving, but wishes to present it in very modern guise is +to serve it with cottage cheese balls and strained honey. The +combination of flavors is certainly a most happy one. The cheese balls +are piled in a pretty dish and the honey served from a glass bowl. + +=Individual English Apple Tart.=--Peel and core tart apples, put into a +large saucepan, cover with boiling water, stew gently until the apples +are tender but unbroken. Sweeten to taste. Line the edges of a deep pie +tin with crust, then fill the center of the dish with apples, dropping +into the center of each a spoonful of orange marmalade. Cover the top of +the dish with strips of pastry arranged lattice fashion, bag, and bake +quickly until brown. Serve hot. + +=Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets.=--To one quart of cooked and sifted pumpkin +add one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, six well beaten eggs, a +cupful of sugar, a quarter teaspoonful each of mace and nutmeg, four +teaspoonfuls of ginger and one gill of milk. Bake in patty-pans lined +with rich flaky crust, set in paper bag. Remove from pans before +serving. A touch of novelty is given by topping each tartlet with a +generous portion of maple syrup or strained honey. + + + +TURNOVERS. + +=Apple and Cheese Turnovers.=--Make a crust, using six heaping +tablespoonfuls of flour, three tablespoonfuls lard and butter, half and +half, a saltspoonful of salt and just enough water to roll out. Mark out +into squares of about four inches. Have ready some nice tart apples +sliced fine, and also cheese sliced very thin. Fill each one with +apples, sprinkle sugar and cinnamon over the apple, put a tiny piece of +butter on top, then turn up the edges of the crust, overlapping the +upper side about two inches. Place in a buttered bag, and having wet the +edges of the crust with milk, bake to a nice brown. Remove from the +oven, raise up the upper crust, put in the cheese, re-cover, turn a tin +over the turnovers and stand in the oven again for ten minutes, leaving +the oven door open. This softens the cheese. Eat while warm. Caraway +seeds may be used in place of cinnamon if desired. The turnovers may be +eaten plain with cream or with a liquid sauce as preferred. + +=Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers.=--Make a good crust and roll out twice. +Mark a square and spread thickly with jam. Fold over two sides first and +pinch together, then fold over the other two sides in the same way. +Brush over with milk and sprinkle with brown sugar. Put into +well-greased bag and bake thirty minutes. + +=Mince Turnovers.=--Make the original round of paste about four inches +across. Put a tablespoonful of mince meat upon it, fold over very neatly +and pinch the edges together. Flatten and cook inside a buttered bag. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SHORT CAKES + + +=Banana Short Cake.=--BEAT to a cream one-half cupful butter and one of +sugar. Add two well-beaten eggs, a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of +baking powder sifted with a pint of flour. Flavor with vanilla. Mix +lightly and roll out into a sheet about half an inch thick. Cut into +rounds about four inches in diameter, and having brushed each one over +with melted butter, pile on top of each other and put in buttered bag. +Bake twelve minutes, separate, and spread between the layers a thick +filling of sliced bananas flavored with lemon juice and sweetened to +taste. Serve with Foamy Sauce. + +=Peach Short Cake.=--Use for this either fresh peaches or canned and +make in one large short cake or individual ones which are really nicer +in paper bag cookery. For the latter sift together a pint and a half of +flour, two tablespoonfuls of salt. Rub in with the tips of the fingers +two tablespoonfuls of butter, then add one beaten egg and milk to make a +soft dough. Cut out like biscuit, bag and bake in a quick oven. When +baked, split in two, spread lightly with butter and fill with the +sweetened peaches and whipped cream, a layer of peaches first and cream +on top. Cover the little short cakes in the same way, piling up the +whipped cream on top. + +=Rhubarb Short Cake.=--Stew rhubarb and sweeten to taste. Make a short +cake batter, using one-quarter cupful of butter and a half cupful sugar +creamed together, one egg well beaten, one quarter cupful sweet milk and +one cupful of flour sifted with one teaspoonful of baking powder. Make +in two large layers or individual ones, and bake in paper bag. When +done, spread with the rhubarb filling and serve with whipped cream or a +cream sauce. + +=Old Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake.=--The real old-fashioned +strawberry short cake may be made with sour cream or rich sour milk and +soda, or sweet milk and baking powder. Sometimes an egg is added and a +tablespoonful of sugar, but it is a far cry from the French strawberry +short cake of hotels and restaurants which is really a cake, either +sponge or layer, with whole berries between the layers and thick whipped +cream or a meringue on top. To make the genuine old-fashioned sour milk +biscuit short cake, which is really more tender than that made with +sweet milk, put four cups sifted pastry flour in a mixing bowl with a +half teaspoonful of salt and mix well. Add three tablespoonfuls of +butter and chop fine, using a silver knife. Dissolve a level teaspoonful +of soda in a little hot water and stir into a large cupful of sour cream +or rich sour milk. When it stops "purring" add a tablespoonful of sugar +and one well beaten egg to the milk and turn into the sifted flour. Mix +well together with a spatula or flexible knife, handling as little as +possible, then turn out on to a floured board. The dough should be soft +enough to roll easily. Divide and roll lightly and quickly into two thin +sheets. These may be baked separately in well-greased round tins in a +paper bag or laid one on top of the other with a thin coating of butter +between and baked in one bag. Bake in a very hot oven. When done, +separate. Have ready a quart of ripe berries washed, crushed and +sugared. This should have been done before beginning the dough, so that +the sugar will have time to draw out the rich juice of the berries. +Cover the lower half of the short cake with a thick layer of these +berries, place the second cake on top and cover with the rest of the +crushed and sweetened berries or large whole ones dusted with powdered +sugar. Serve with thick cream or a crushed berry sauce. + + + +PUDDINGS. + +=Almond Pudding.=--Blanche one pound of almonds and grind to a smooth +paste with two teaspoonfuls of rose water. Add a wine glass of wine and +a half cupful of cream thickened with a large spoonful of bread crumbs. +Add a half pound of sugar, seven well beaten eggs and a half teaspoonful +of grated nutmeg. Put in a thin walled pudding dish, set in bag, seal +and bake half an hour. + +=Apple and Fig Pudding.=--Select large tart baking apples, wash and +core. Stuff each apple with a fig rolled small as possible or chopped, +as preferred. Put in buttered bag and bake slowly until tender, but not +broken. Place in a glass dish and cover with a thick boiled custard. +Decorate each apple with a candied or Maraschino cherry and serve with +sweet wafers. + +=Banana Pudding.=--Beat the yolks of three eggs and whites of two. Add a +cupful of sugar, a scant half cupful softened butter, a cupful stale +cake crumbs and a cupful of milk. Beat all together well, then add +three bananas sliced thin, and the juice of a half lemon. Put into a +basin then in a well-buttered bag, seal and bake half an hour, take out, +cover with a meringue made from the whipped white of the egg that was +left over and a tablespoonful of sugar with a little lemon juice to +flavor. Strew a little candied peel over the meringue and set in the +oven, which should be quite cool for the meringue to rise slowly and +stiffen. Serve with lemon sauce. + +=Farmer's Plum Pudding.=--Put into a basin two cupfuls of flour sifted +with two level teaspoonfuls baking powder, a pinch of salt and a level +teaspoonful ginger and cinnamon. Add one-half cupful sugar, one cupful +chopped suet, one-half cupful each candied peel and currants and +raisins. Make to batter consistency with one-half cupful each molasses +and milk and one beaten egg. Put in small buttered molds, set in paper +bag, pour in enough cold water to come three parts up the sides, seal +and bake two hours, reducing the heat of the oven after the first ten +minutes. Serve with hard or foamy sauce. + +=Peach Betty.=--Sprinkle a layer of crumbs in a buttered baking dish and +over this a layer of peach quarters. Sprinkle with sugar, then repeat a +layer of crumbs and peaches and sugar until the dish is filled, having +the crumbs on top. Put in buttered bag and bake thirty-five minutes in a +moderate oven, and serve with sweetened cream. To prepare the buttered +crumbs melt a little butter and pour over the crumbs. + +=Peach Cobbler.=--For this the richest and ripest peaches are none too +good. Some variety of the yellow peach is usually chosen because of its +superior richness. For its baking a pudding dish at least three and a +half inches deep is chosen. This is lined with a rich crust, a square +of the dough being taken from the bottom. Now peel enough ripe and +luscious peaches to fill the dish, tearing them apart but leaving the +pits in to impart their superior flavor. Sweeten abundantly, add about +two tablespoonfuls water, and a tablespoonful of butter cut in bits. +Cover with a layer of puff paste, sealing it down carefully on the sides +to the border, so as to lose none of the juices. Bag and bake in a quick +oven for forty-five minutes. When nearly done, draw to the edge of the +oven, open the top of the bag, dust with powdered sugar and set back a +few moments longer for the crust to glaze. This is perfection, whether +eaten hot or cold, serving it alone, with cream or with a hard sauce as +preferred. + +=Peach Roly Poly.=--Make a sweet biscuit dough. Roll out thin and spread +with a layer of sliced or chopped peaches and roll the dough over as for +jelly roll. Put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven. + +=Plum Roly Poly.=--Wash and stew any ripe sound plums and remove the +pits. If very juicy, drain away the most of the juice. Sweeten to taste. +Make a good biscuit dough or puff paste as preferred, roll out in long +strips, sprinkle sugar on the upper side, then spread thinly with the +stewed plums, roll up and pinch the ends tight. Put in buttered bag and +cook thirty minutes. Serve with a sauce made from the extra juice +sweetened and slightly thickened with a little cornstarch. + +=Rye Bread Pudding.=--Toast stale rye bread to a golden brown, then roll +into fine crumbs. Brush small custard cups or a mould with melted +butter, sprinkle over a few currants, raisins, prunes (cut fine) or +figs, then fill with crumbs. Beat three eggs without separating until +light, add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pint of milk (with vanilla +or nutmeg to flavor) and pour carefully over the bread crumbs. Let them +stand ten minutes, until the mixture has soaked into the crumbs; then +set in a paper bag in a pan of cold water and cook like a custard in the +oven. It will take about half an hour. Test by slipping the blade of the +knife down the side of the bag. If it comes up clear, the pudding is +sufficiently baked. Serve hot with lemon or egg sauce or fruit syrup. + +=Tapioca Apple Pudding.=--Soak one cupful tapioca in three pints cold +water over night. In the morning put on to boil and cook twenty or +thirty minutes, until it looks clear. Add a quart and a half peeled and +quartered apples, one cup of sugar, a teaspoonful salt, and lemon juice +or extract to flavor. Turn into a buttered dish, put in bag and bake an +hour in a moderate oven. When cold serve with cream and sugar. + +=A White Plum Pudding.=--Beat to a cream a half cup of sugar and +three-quarters cup of butter. Add four eggs well beaten, a saltspoonful +of salt, two cups milk, a quart of flour mixed with one-half cup +shredded citron, one-half cup currants, a teaspoonful grated nutmeg and +a teaspoonful vanilla. Just before turning into the mould stir in two +even tablespoonfuls pure baking powder. Put in bag, surround with water, +steam two hours and serve with any good sauce. + + + +PUDDING SAUCES. + +=Caramel Sauce.=--Put one-half cupful of sugar over the fire in a clean, +smooth saucepan and stir until it becomes a light brown color. Pour in +a half cupful of boiling water, simmer ten minutes, add a tablespoonful +of butter and serve with pudding or fritters. + +=Cornstarch Pudding Sauce.=--Beat together one tablespoonful cornstarch, +two tablespoonfuls of butter and a half cupful of brown sugar. Set on +the stove until heated, then turn in hot water a little at a time and +cook until consistency required. Add four tablespoonfuls of grape or +apple jelly with spices or other flavoring to taste, and serve hot. + +=Cream Sauce.=--Mix together two tablespoonfuls each of cornstarch and +sugar. Add one beaten egg and cook in double boiler until thickened. Add +a tablespoonful of butter and flavoring to taste. + +=Cream Sauce à la Hotel Astor.=--Beat together one cupful each sugar and +butter until perfectly blended. Add cream until mixture is like thick +cream, dust with nutmeg or mace and serve. + +=Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding.=--Boil together one cupful of +water and two of sugar for ten minutes. Thicken slightly with three +level teaspoonfuls arrow root or two teaspoonfuls corn starch mixed with +a little cold water, simmer five minutes, then add a half cupful candied +cherries, cut in halves and a few pistache nuts quartered. Flavor with +nutmeg or vanilla as preferred. + +=Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding.=--Beat one cupful of butter to a cream. +Add sugar gradually, two cupfuls in all, beating until very light. Add +the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff dry foam. Arrange on a flat +glass dish and grate a little nutmeg over it. + +=Molasses Sauce.=--To make molasses sauce, which is an excellent +accompaniment to a plain rice or apple pudding, mix together one cupful +of molasses, a tablespoonful of vinegar or the juice of one lemon, a +saltspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of butter. Boil ten minutes. + + + + +MENUS AND INDEXES + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +PAPER BAG MENUS FOR WINTER. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 1. + + Grapefruit + Cereal + Sweetbreads with Bacon (Paper-bagged) + Scones (Paper-bagged) + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 2. + + Oranges + Cereal + Spindled Oysters with Bacon (Paper-bagged) + Water Cress + Warmed over Rolls (Paper-bagged) + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 3. + + Baked Apples (Paper-bagged) + Beefsteak Leftovers (Paper-bagged) + Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in paper-bag) + Scones (Paper-bagged) + Coffee. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. + + Chicken Croquettes (Bagged) + Olives Pickles + Hot Biscuit (Bagged) + Gingerbread (Bagged) + Cheese + Tea. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. + + Oyster Bundles (Bagged) + Baked Potatoes (Bagged) + Celery Olives + Pork Cake (Bagged) + Baked Quinces (Bagged) + Cocoa. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. + + Mock Fried Oysters (Bagged) + Pickles Celery + Sally Lunn (Bagged) + Sponge Cake (Bagged) + Baked Apples + Tea. + + + DINNER NO. 1. + + Grapefruit with Maraschino Cherries + Olives Pickles + Smelts Milanaise (Bagged) + Roast Chicken (Bagged) Baked Potatoes (Bagged) + Currant or Cranberry Jelly (Bagged) + Baked Onions (Bagged) Lettuce Salad + Plum Pudding (Bagged) Hard Sauce + Demi-Tasse. + + + DINNER NO. 2. + + Grilled Sardines on Crackers (Bagged) + Ripe Olives Celery Salted Almonds (Cooked in Bag) + Ducks (Roasted in Bag) + Candied Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in Bag) + Cranberry Molds, Biscuit (Bagged) + Baked Apples Stuffed with Nuts (Bagged) + Served with Cream + Gingerbread (Bagged) + Tea. + + + DINNER NO. 3. + + Anchovy Canapés (Bagged) + Olives Celery + Roast Veal (Bagged) + Baked Potatoes (Bagged) + Spinach (Paper Bagged) + Endive and Roquefort Cheese Salad + Cheese Straws (Paper-bagged) + Mince Pie (Paper Bagged) + Black Coffee. + + + +PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SPRING. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 1. + + Baked Rhubarb and Raisins (Paper-bagged) + Cereal + Omelette (Paper-bagged) + Crisped Sweet Potatoes (Paper-bagged) + Rolls (Reheated in bag) + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 2. + + Strawberries au Naturel + Cereal + Eggs in Cocottes (Paper-bagged) + Scones (Paper-bagged) + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 3. + + Baked Prunes (Paper-bagged) + Cereal + Sweetbreads (Bagged) Water Cress + Baking Powder Biscuit (Bagged) + Coffee. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. + + Rhubarb Short Cake (Paper-bagged) + Cold Veal Loaf (Paper-bagged) + Chocolate Cake (Bagged) + Tea. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. + + Crab Meat au Gratin (Paper-bagged) + Biscuit (Paper-bagged) + Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake (Bagged) + Strawberries + Cocoa. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. + + Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged) + Biscuit (Bagged) + Pickles Olives + Good Friday Cake (Paper-bagged) + Custard + Tea. + + + DINNER NO. 1. + + Caviare Canapés (Bagged) + Salted Nuts (Bagged) Olives + Roast Leg of Lamb (Bagged) Mint Sauce + Baked Potatoes (Bagged) + Stuffed Baked Onions (Bagged) + Rhubarb Pie (Bagged) + Coffee. + + + DINNER NO. 2. + + Bouchees of Sardines (Bagged) + Deviled Almonds (Bagged) Radishes + Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce (Bagged) + Parsnips (Bagged) + Baked Potatoes without their Jackets (Bagged) + Lettuce Salad + Rhubarb Short Cake (Bagged) + Black Coffee. + + + DINNER NO. 3. + + Strawberries au Naturel on Orange Slices + Mussels au Gratin (Bagged) + Irish Stew (Bagged) + Scalloped Tomatoes (Bagged) + Lettuce Salad + Lemon Pie + Coffee. + + + + PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SUMMER. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 1. + + Raspberries + Cereal + Creamed Mushrooms (Bagged) + Toast (Bagged) + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 2. + + Blackberries with Cream + Moulded Cereal + Crisped Bacon and Liver (Bagged) + Rolls (Bagged) Radishes + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 3. + + Cantaloupe + Moulded Farina + Corn Fritters (Bagged) + Baked Egg In Tomato Cases (Bagged) + Scones (Bagged) + Coffee. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. + + Peach Puree + Potato Salad + Veal Loaf (Bag-cooked) + Raspberry Short Cake (Bag-cooked) with Cream + Iced Tea. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. + + Cold Game Pie (Cooked in Bag) + Hot Biscuit (Cooked in Bag) + Oatmeal Crisps (Cooked in Bag) + Blackberries + Iced Tea. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. + + Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream (Bag-cooked) + Baked Lamb, Sweetbreads (Bag-cooked) + Bread and Butter + Lettuce Salad + Raspberries Potato Caramel Cake (Bag-cooked) + Iced Tea. + + + DINNER NO. 1. + + Canteloupes + Radishes Olives + Lamb Chops (Bagged) Mint Jelly + Green Peas (Bagged) + String Bean Salad + Lemon Ice + + + DINNER NO. 2. + + Sardines and Lemon + Olives Radishes + Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms (Bagged) + Sweet Potatoes en Brochette (Paper-bagged) + Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing + Fruit Syllabub + Potato Chocolate Cake (Baked in Bag) + Iced Tea. + + + DINNER NO. 3. + + Watermelon + Roast Lamb (Paper-bagged) Mint Sauce, Currant Jelly + New Potatoes (Bagged) Parsley Sauce + Oriental String Beans (Paper-bagged) + Cucumbers (Dressed with oil and vinegar) + Neufchatel Cheese and Wafers + Lemon Ice Chocolate Wafers (Bag-cooked) + Iced Tea with Lemon. + + + + PAPER BAG MENUS FOR AUTUMN. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 1. + + Peaches and Cream + Cereal + Fried Tomatoes (Paper-bagged) Cream Gravy + Blueberry Biscuit (Paper-bagged) + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 2. + + Baked Apples (Bagged-cooked) with Cream + Cereal + Eggs Baked in Tomatoes (Paper-bagged) + Baked Potatoes (Bagged) + Biscuit (Bagged) + Coffee. + + + BREAKFAST NO. 3. + + Canteloupe + Ham with Apples (Bagged) + Sweet Potatoes (Bagged) + Corn Meal Gems (Bag-cooked) + Coffee. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. + + Cold Roast Chicken (Paper-bagged) + Baked Potatoes (Bagged) + Tomatoes with Mayonnaise + Bread and Butter Folds + Baked Sweet Apples with Cream (Bagged) + Chocolate Cake (Bagged) + Tea. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. + + Corn Patties (Bagged) + Scalloped Potatoes (Bagged) + Olives Pickles + Farmer's Fruit Cake (Bagged) + Baked Quinces + Tea. + + + LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. + + Baked Potatoes en Surprise (Bagged) + Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged) + Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing + Baked Apples with Nuts (Bagged) + Gingerbread (Bagged) + Tea. + + + DINNER MENU NO. 1. + + Canteloupe + Caviare Canapés (Cooked in Bag) + Sauer Braten with Carrots and Onions (Bagged) + Baked Potatoes (Bagged) + Lima Beans (Bagged) + Sliced Tomatoes + Peach Short Cake (Paper-bagged) + Coffee. + + + DINNER MENU NO. 2. + + Caviare Canapés (Cooked in Bag) + Deviled Chestnuts (Paper-bagged) + Roast Pork (Bagged) + Sweet Potatoes (Bagged) + Baked Egg Plant (Bagged) + Cucumbers + Apple Pie (Paper-bagged) with Cream Cheese + Coffee. + + + DINNER MENU NO. 3. + + Grapes and Peaches + Cream of Chestnut Soup with Croutons (Cooked in Bag) + Roast Duck (Bagged) Spiced Grapes + Sweet Potatoes (Bagged) + Baked Tomatoes (Bagged) + Grape Pie (Baked In Bag) + Coffee. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR BEGINNERS + + + Baked Potatoes in their Jackets Page 96 + Baked Potatoes without Jackets " 96 + Bacon and Apples " 70 + Sausage and Apples " 72 + Bacon and Bananas " 70 + Sausage with Tomatoes " 73 + Roast Loin of Pork " 72 + Hot Cheese Canapés " 20 + Caviare Canapés " 20 + Cheese and Cracker Canapés " 20 + Cracker Crisps " 21 + Roast Clams " 26 + Lobster in Shells " 29 + Baked Blue Fish " 31 + Filets of Flounder " 34 + Lamb Chops " 67 + Roast Leg of Lamb " 69 + Roast Chicken " 50 + Vealettes " 76 + Baked Onions " 94 + Sweet Potatoes and Bacon " 97 + Spinach " 98 + Peas " 94 + Turnips " 99 + Baking Powder Biscuits " 101 + Baked Apples " 112 + Cinnamon Apples " 113 + Apple Dumplings " 112 + Baked Pears " 115 + Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake " 107 + Oatmeal Cakes " 109 + Pork Cake " 109 + Mince Turnovers " 122 + Individual Apple Tart " 120 + + + + +INDEX + + + APPETIZERS AND RELISHES: PAGE + + Bouchee Cases 18 + Bonne Bouchee 19 + Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise 19 + Bouchees of Sardines 19 + Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue 19 + Canapés, The Making of 19 + Anchovy Canapés 20 + Caviare Canapés 20 + Hot Cheese Canapés 20 + Cheese and Crackers Canapés 20 + Cheese Toast Sandwiches 20 + Cracker Crisps 21 + Deviled Crackers 21 + Diables à Cheval 21 + Nut Appetizers 21 + Salted Almonds 21 + Deviled Almonds 22 + Roasted Chestnuts 22 + Salted Chestnuts 22 + Deviled Chestnuts 22 + + + BEEF: + + Bullock's Heart 61 + Stewed Bullock's Heart 61 + Filet of Beef 61 + Hamburg Steak 62 + Pot Roast 63 + Rib Roast of Beef 63 + Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag 64 + Sauer Braten 64 + Beef Steak 65 + Toledo Beef Steak 65 + Stuffed Roast Beef or "Mock Duck" 65 + + + CAKES: + + Cheese Cakes 104 + Cinnamon Cake 105 + English Fairy Cakes 105 + Fruit Cookies 106 + Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Ginger Bread 106 + Good Friday Cake 106 + German Honey Cakes 107 + Pecan Kisses 107 + Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake 107 + Hickory Nut Macaroons 108 + Walnut Macaroons 108 + Maple Sugar Cake 108 + Molasses Coffee Cake 108 + Nut Cake 108 + Oatmeal Cakes 109 + German Peach Cake 109 + Pork Cake 109 + Potato Chocolate Cake 110 + Potato Caramel Cake 110 + Auburn Pound Cake 111 + Raisin Nut Cake 111 + Sour Cream Cake 111 + + + CHEESE AND EGG DISHES: + + Cheese Balls with Tomato Sauce 87 + Cheese Fritters to Serve with Salad Course 87 + Pepper Cheese 87 + Cheese Ramekins 88 + Cheese and Eggs 88 + Baked Eggs 88 + Baked Eggs with Cheese 88 + A Paper Bag Omelette 88 + Cheese Omelette 89 + Swiss Eggs 89 + Eggs in Tomato Cups 89 + + + FISH (also see Shell Fish): + + Filet of Bass 31 + Baked Blue Fish 31 + Bloaters, A Breakfast Dish of 31 + Cat Fish 32 + Codfish Cones 32 + Codfish à la Crême 32 + Eels, Paper Bagged 33 + Flounder à la Meuniére 33 + Filets of Flounder 34 + Finnan Haddie 34 + Fish Cakes 34 + New England Fish Pie 35 + Fish Soufflé 35 + Planked Fish Bag Cooked 36 + Halibut à la Poulette 37 + Herring au Gratin 37 + Herrings with Herbs 37 + Kedgeree 37 + Kippered Mackerel with Fine Herbs 38 + Salmon Loaf 38 + Scalloped Salmon 38 + Salmon Soufflé 39 + Baked Shad 39 + Shad Roe 39 + Smelts 40 + Bagged Weak Fish 40 + White Fish Planked 41 + + + FISH SAUCE (also see Sauces and Gravies): + + Anchovy Sauce 42 + Quick Bearnaise Sauce 42 + Bearnaise Sauce 42 + Brown Sauce 43 + Curry Sauce 43 + Egg Sauce 43 + Sauce Hollandaise 43 + Egg Sauce Made from the Hollandaise 44 + Lobster Sauce 44 + Maitre d'Hotel Butter 44 + Sauce for Broiled Shad à la Murray 45 + Parsley Butter 45 + Sauce Tartare 45 + + + FRUITS: + + Baked Apples 112 + Baked Apple Dumplings 112 + Cold Baked Apples with Rum 112 + Cinnamon Apples 113 + Apples Stuffed with Figs 113 + Baked Apples and Nuts 113 + Raisin Apples 114 + Baked Apple Sauce 114 + Baked Bananas 114 + Stuffed Dates 114 + Baked Gooseberries 114 + Baked Peaches 114 + Baked Pears 115 + Baked Plums 115 + Baked Quinces 115 + Baked Raisins 115 + Chestnut Patties 115 + + + GAME (see Poultry and Game): + + + LAMB AND MUTTON: + + Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce 67 + Lamb Chops 67 + Lamb or Mutton Cutlets with Tomatoes 67 + Lamb Fry 68 + Lamb's Kidney 68 + Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider 68 + Mutton Chops and Sausage 68 + Ragout of Lamb 68 + Roast Leg of Lamb 69 + A Genuine Irish Stew 69 + + + PASTRY: + + Plain Pie Crust 116 + Apple Pie 117 + Deep Apple Pie with Cream Cheese 117 + Cranberry Pie 118 + Cranberry and Raisin Pie 118 + Lemon Pie 118 + Mince Pie 118 + Mock Mince Pie 119 + Pecan Pie with One Crust 119 + Real Old-Fashioned Pumpkin Pie 119 + Individual English Apple Tart 120 + Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets 121 + Apple and Cheese Turnovers 121 + Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers 122 + Mince Turnovers 122 + + + PORK IN VARIED FORMS: + + Bacon and Apples 70 + Bacon and Bananas 70 + Bacon and Calf's Liver 70 + Baked Pork Chops 70 + Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes 70 + Ham and Scalloped Potatoes 71 + Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops 71 + Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder 72 + Roast Loin of Pork 72 + Roast Spare-Rib 72 + Baked Sausage with Apples 72 + Baked Sausage and Potato 72 + Baked Sausage with Toast 73 + Baked Sausage with Tomatoes 73 + Tenderloin of Pork 73 + + + POULTRY AND GAME: + + Capon 47 + Chicken with Parsnips 48 + Chicken à la Baltimore 48 + Chicken Croquettes 48 + Paper Bagged Chicken 49 + Chicken Pie 49 + Paste for Chicken Pie 50 + Chicken Rissoles 50 + Roast Chicken 50 + Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms 50 + Smothered Chicken 51 + Ducks with Banana Dressing 51 + Canvas Backs 51 + Chicken, Italian Style 52 + Roast Wild Duck 52 + Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style 53 + Frogs' Legs 53 + Paper Bag Roast Goose 53 + Sage and Potato Stuffing 54 + Bag Roasted Young Guinea Fowl 54 + Bag Broiled Young Guinea Hen 55 + Quail 55 + Stuffed Quail 56 + Rabbit Cookery 56 + Barbecued Rabbit 56 + Roast Rabbit 57 + Stewed Rabbit 57 + Reed Birds 58 + Squab 58 + Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style) 58 + Turkey à la Bonham 59 + Venison 60 + Venison Steak 60 + + + PUDDINGS AND PUDDING SAUCES: + + Almond Pudding 125 + Apple and Fig Pudding 125 + Banana Pudding 125 + Farmer's Plum Pudding 126 + Peach Betty 126 + Peach Cobbler 126 + Peach Roly-Poly 127 + Plum Roly-Poly 127 + Rye Bread Pudding 127 + Tapioca Apple Pudding 128 + A White Plum Pudding 128 + Caramel Sauce 128 + Cornstarch Pudding Sauce 129 + Cream Sauce 129 + Cream Sauce à la Hotel Astor 129 + Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding 129 + Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding 129 + Molasses Sauce 130 + + + RECOOKED DISHES: + + Beef Steak Left Overs 83 + Chicken Croquettes 83 + Mock Fried Oysters 84 + Turkey Croquettes 84 + Edinboro Hot Pot 84 + Individual Meat Pies 85 + English Pasties 85 + Olla Podrida Pie 85 + Oyster Bundles 86 + + SAUCES AND GRAVIES: + Bignon's Sauce 78 + Bread Sauce 78 + Brown Sauce 78 + Celery Sauce 79 + Currant Jelly Sauce 79 + Curry Sauce 79 + Hollandaise Sauce 79 + Horseradish Sauce 80 + Maitre d'Hotel Butter 80 + Mexican Sauce 80 + Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb 80 + French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style 81 + Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat 81 + Onion Sauce 81 + Spanish Sauce 81 + Thick Tomato Sauce 82 + Sauce Tartare 82 + + + SHELL FISH: + + Clam Pies 26 + Roast Clams 26 + Crabs, Soft and Hard 26 + Creamed Crabs 27 + Crabs Deviled à la William Penn 27 + Crab Meat au Gratin 27 + Crab Flakes au Gratin 28 + Lobster Chops 28 + Coquilles of Lobster 28 + Lobster in Shells 29 + Mussels au Gratin 29 + Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style) 29 + Spindled Oysters and Bacon 30 + + + SHORT CAKES: + + Banana Short Cakes 123 + Peach Short Cake 123 + Rhubarb Short Cake 124 + Old-Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake 124 + + + SOUP ACCESSORIES: + + Bread Sticks 23 + Croutons Toasted 23 + Crisped Crackers 23 + Egg Balls 23 + Forcemeat Balls, or Quenelles 24 + + + VEAL: + + Baked Calf's Liver 74 + Calves' Brains in Tempting but Inexpensive + Ways 74 + Breaded Brains 74 + Sweetbreads 75 + Baked Sweetbreads 75 + Sweetbreads with Bacon 75 + Larded Sweetbreads 75 + Sweetbreads Straight 76 + Vealettes 76 + Veal Loaf 76 + Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised 77 + + + VEGETABLES: + + Asparagus 90 + Asparagus with Cheese 90 + Lima Beans 90 + String Beans, Oriental Style 91 + Boston Baked Bean Cakes 91 + Bean Croquettes 91 + German Cabbage 92 + Cabbage Hot Slaw 92 + Carrots 92 + Carrot Saute 92 + Dolmas 99 + Stuffed Eggplant 93 + Lentil Cutlets 93 + Mushrooms 93 + Baked Onions 94 + Stuffed Baked Onions 94 + Onions with Cheese 94 + Parsnips 94 + Green Peas 94 + Stuffed Peppers 95 + Peppers with Cream Fish 96 + Baked Irish Potatoes 96 + Baked Potatoes without their Coats or Jackets 96 + Potatoes en Surprise 96 + Potatoes Farci 97 + Sauer Kraut 97 + Waldorf Sauer Kraut 97 + Sweet Potatoes and Bacon 97 + Sweet Potato Straws 98 + Sweet Potato en Brochette 98 + Spinach 98 + Summer Squash in Butter 98 + Stuffed Summer Squash 98 + Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream 98 + Turnips 99 + Turnip Balls 99 + Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas 99 + + + WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC.: + + Baking Powder Bread 101 + Bannocks 101 + Baking Powder Biscuits 101 + Egg Biscuits 102 + Maple Biscuits 102 + Nut Biscuits 102 + Raisin Biscuits 103 + Hot Cross Buns 103 + Warmed Over Breads 103 + + + + +YOU WILL FIND THE NEW COOKERY EASY _if you use only_ CONTINENTAL COOKERY +BAGS + + +MADE expressly for Paper Bag Cooking. + +The perfected product of much investigation and many experiments. + + +CONTINENTAL Cookery Bags are White, Sanitary, Strong, Waterproof, +Greaseproof and entirely Odorless. In every way they are Safe and +Suitable. + +Packages of 30 Bags, Conveniently Assorted, with Special Clips and Book +of Directions and Recipes, 25c. A variety of sizes at the same price per +package. + + CONTINENTAL PAPER BAG CO. + WHITEHALL BUILDING, NEW YORK + + + + +OVAL WOOD Cookery Dishes + +Should be Used in All Paper Bag Cooking + +_They are as Important as the Bags_ + +Because they conserve all the delicate meat and vegetable juices, adding +a savory flavor to everything cooked in them. + +With our Cookery Dishes you can give to all meats the delicious taste +which has heretofore been secured only by planking steaks and fish. + +The sweet wood--we use sugar-maple only--is always fresh, giving an +effect that cannot be maintained permanently by the ordinary plank. + +Everything that can be cooked in a paper bag tastes better if you use +our Cookery Dishes also. + +ASK YOUR DEALER ABOUT THEM + +They are packed in cartons suitable for all purposes, assuring the +delivery of clean and sanitary dishes in your kitchen. + + THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY + Delta, Ohio + 127 Franklin St., New York 436 Gravier St., New Orleans + Manufacturers of "O.W.D." Butter Dishes, + Picnic Plates, and Clothes Pins + + + + +Refined Vegetable Oil + +Is recommended by physicians and culinary experts in place of butter and +animal fats for all cooking; it is more healthful and economical. + +Wesson Snowdrift Oil The Best Refined Vegetable Oil Is Unexcelled for +Greasing Paper Bags + +You can buy many different kinds of vegetable oils, but you can't get +anything equal to Wesson Snowdrift Oil. It is refined by the Wesson +process (the only process yet discovered for properly refining vegetable +oils) and we control that process. No other manufacturer can use it. +¶Wesson Snowdrift Oil has just the right smoothness and consistency to +make rich and delicious salad dressings. + +AT ALL GROCERS + +On request, we will mail you our Wesson Snowdrift Oil book of 150 +recipes. Please mention your grocer's name. + +[Illustration] + + The Southern Cotton Oil Company + Dept. B + _24 Broad Street, New York, N. Y._ + + Savannah Chicago New Orleans + San Francisco + + + + +[Illustration: _This illustration shows a bag properly closed with +clips._] + +The Cookery Bag Clip + +is the only _successful_ device for effectually closing Paper Cookery +Bags + +[Illustration] + +The projecting lips permit the clips to slip on to the bags easily; the +free ends projecting outwardly prevent the clips slipping off the bag +when in use. + + Made by + THE OAKVILLE COMPANY + Waterbury, Conn. + +Makers of _Sevran Pins_ and the _Clinton_ and _Damascus_ Safety Pins. + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Obvious punctuation errors were corrected. + +Page 25, "amonnia" changed to "ammonia" (as the ammonia used) + +Page 26, "may" changed to "many" (in as many small) + +Page 30, "sault" changed to "salt" (with salt, pepper and butter) + +Page 35, "sesasoned" changed to "seasoned" (mashed potato well seasoned) + +Page 61, "5-8" and "3-8" changed to "5/8" and "3/8" respectively (5/8 of +an inch thick) (about 3/8 of an inch) + +Page 63, "marcaroni" changed to "macaroni" (a bit of macaroni) + +Page 74, "over" changed to "oven" (hour in a hot oven) + +Page 80, "floor" changed to "flour" (of flour. Stir and) + +Page 81, "desertspoonful" changed to "dessertspoonful" (dessertspoonful +Worcestershire Sauce) + +Page 90, "Chesse" changed to "Cheese" (Asparagus With Cheese) + +Page 108, "spoonsfuls" changed to "spoonfuls" (spoonfuls into a) + +Page 116, "CAPTER" changed to "CHAPTER" (CHAPTER XXI) + +Page 127, "sweeteend" changed to "sweetened" (the extra juice sweetened) + +Page 151, "Balitmore" changed to "Balitmore" (Chicken à la Baltimore) + +Page 152, "SAUCEES" changed to "SAUCES" (PUDDINGS AND PUDDING SAUCES) + +Page 155, "Waldrof" changed to "Waldorf" (Waldorf Sauer Kraut) + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42955 *** |
