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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42955 ***
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 42955-h.htm or 42955-h.zip:
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42955/42955-h/42955-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42955/42955-h.zip)
+
+
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
+ http://archive.org/details/standardpaperbag00telfrich
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+ This book was written long ago when safety standards were
+ much more fluid. Please do NOT try these at home, or anywhere
+ else.
+
+ Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+ Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
+
+ The reader is likely to be confused by the chapter numbering.
+ In the original book, the Table of Contents listed the Foreword
+ and Introduction as Chapter I, but in the text itself the
+ Foreward and Introduction has no chapter number, and chapter
+ numbering begins with What is Paper Bag Cookery? (Chapter
+ II in the Table of Contents but Chapter I in the text). The
+ confusion gets worse, because TWO chapters (Pastry and Short
+ Cakes) are numbered Chapter XXI in the text! After that the
+ numbers of the remaining chapters differ from the Table of
+ Contents by two.
+
+
+
+
+
+STANDARD PAPER-BAG COOKERY
+
+by
+
+EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD
+
+Adapted to the Needs of American Housewives
+
+ Now good digestion wait on appetite, and health on both,
+ Macbeth III, 4.
+
+
+STANDARD PAPER-BAG COOKERY
+
+by
+
+EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD
+
+Household Editor of _The Delineator_, _New Ideas_, and _The Designer_
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+New York
+Cupples & Leon Company
+
+Copyright, 1912, by
+Cupples & Leon Company
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ CHAPTER PAGE
+ I. FOREWORD AND INTRODUCTION 7
+ II. WHAT IS PAPER BAG COOKERY 9
+ III. GENERAL DIRECTIONS 12
+ IV. TIME TABLE 16
+ V. APPETIZERS AND RELISHES 18
+ VI. SOUP ACCESSORIES 23
+ VII. SHELL FISH 25
+ VIII. FISH 31
+ IX. FISH SAUCE 42
+ X. POULTRY AND GAME 47
+ XI. BEEF 61
+ XII. LAMB AND MUTTON 67
+ XIII. PORK IN VARIED FORMS 70
+ XIV. VEAL 74
+ XV. SAUCES AND GRAVIES 78
+ XVI. RECOOKED DISHES 83
+ XVII. CHEESE AND EGG DISHES 87
+ XVIII. VEGETABLES 90
+ XIX. WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC. 101
+ XX. CAKES 104
+ XXI. FRUITS 112
+ XXII. PASTRY 116
+ XXIII. SHORT CAKES 123
+ XXIV. PAPER BAG MENUS 133
+ XXV. A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR BEGINNERS 145
+ INDEX 147
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+IN giving this little book to the public, there has been in mind one
+thing--practicability.
+
+The endeavor has been to make the directions for "Paper-bag Cookery" so
+clear and concise that even the inexperienced housekeeper may not be
+deterred from trying this new-old way of cooking foods delicately,
+digestibly, economically.
+
+No one is advised to try dishes--as for instance soups, omelettes,
+macaroni and kin,--and many desserts that may better be done by other
+methods.
+
+Neither has the author called for strange and divers seasonings and
+materials that are only to be found in the kitchens of the mighty and
+their attendant chefs.
+
+For the very large family or boarding house, pots and pans need still be
+called upon; but for the small family, for the woman who does her own
+work and wishes to minimize labor, or for the epicurean but frugal
+housewife who looks personally after the details of her own little
+establishment, this paper-bag cookery is commended. If this little
+volume points the easiest way for the preparation of nice dishes with a
+modicum of labor and a saving of time and money, it is all that its
+author and compiler asks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+WHAT IS PAPER BAG COOKERY?
+
+
+THE principles contained in Paper-bag Cookery are not new. Woodsmen and
+hunters have known for ages that if they wanted fish or game done to a
+turn, a jacket of clay outside the meat which was protected from soil by
+leaves or corn husks, gave, on removing the clay case, the very
+quintessence of delicate, savory cookery.
+
+Now within the last two years, a series of experiments has resulted in
+the perfecting of a system of Paper-bag Cookery that revolutionizes the
+old time kitchen drudgery with its unending round of greasy pots and
+pans to be taken into account.
+
+The advantages of this method of cooking are manifold. They may be
+epitomized thus:
+
+I. It makes food more savory and nutritious.
+
+II. It is sanitary. No dust can reach the article being cooked and, the
+cooking accomplished, the bag can be thrown into the stove or kitchen
+scrap basket with no temptation for a lazy maid to tuck away a greasy
+pan in the dish closet for the delectation of "germs" or roaches.
+
+III. It is economical. Not only does it save the time and strength of
+the housewife with no aftermath of dirty cooking dishes to be washed,
+but it prevents the shrinkage of meats as caused by ordinary cookery.
+Nothing is lost, because there is no evaporation; careful experiments
+prove that the weight of the cooked food tallies almost exactly with the
+weight of the raw. There is also a great saving of fuel, some claiming
+as high as 40 per cent., owing to the less time required in Paper-bag
+Cookery. While this may be a generous estimate it is certain that
+Paper-bag Cookery takes on the average, one-third less time than other
+cooking.
+
+IV. With ordinary care there is no danger of food burning, and no
+deterioration in flavor if left in the bag some little time before
+serving.
+
+V. It is odorless; a great thing, this, for the flat-dweller who has to
+cook in restricted quarters, taking care always that cooking odors do
+not permeate the house.
+
+VI. Its price is not prohibitive. Indeed, it is most reasonable.
+
+Paper-bag Cookery calls for no big outlay of money, no patent stove
+oven, no complex apparatus or appliances. All that is necessary is an
+oven of any sort--coal, gas, electric, wood or oil--a broiler, a paper
+bag specially and sanitarily prepared,--grease proof and waterproof,--a
+wood cookery dish if the food contains liquid or a number of separate
+ingredients, and something to cook therein. Another convenience are the
+wire clips for fastening the mouth and corners of the bag, which can be
+purchased wherever the bags are sold.
+
+
+THE KIND OF PAPER BAG TO USE.
+
+While a sheet of heavy foolscap paper made into a bag serves for the
+cooking of a single chop--it is self-evident that for larger
+proportions, larger bags and bags from strong, absolutely sanitary paper
+must be used. While there are bags and bags now upon the market, not all
+fulfill these essential conditions. After much experimenting, the
+Continental Paper Bag Co., of Rumford, Maine, and New York City, has
+succeeded in producing the ideal bag which may now be found in varying
+sizes, at all the large house-furnishing stores, grocers, butchers,
+etc., or the bags may be ordered direct from headquarters. These bags
+are put up in bulk in bundle lots, or in sealed packages of assorted
+sizes. Each of the sealed packages contains thirty bags of assorted
+sizes with the necessary clips and a small book of recipes with full
+directions. Retail price 25 cents a package--fifty packages to a
+shipping bundle.
+
+In order to make paper bag cookery of the greatest value to housewives,
+both as regards cleanliness and ease of operation, to say nothing of the
+many cases where the flavor of the food is actually improved, the author
+heartily recommends the use of specially prepared wood cookery dishes.
+These dishes are most inexpensive, varying in price from about thirty
+for ten cents to six for ten cents, depending upon size. They can be
+purchased wherever the paper bags are sold,--department stores, house
+furnishing stores, grocery stores, etc., etc., or may be obtained direct
+from the Oval Wood Dish Company, Delta, Ohio. The food is placed in the
+wood cookery dish and the dish is put into the bag. The advantage lies
+in the fact that should the bag break, the food and juices are saved in
+the dish and the oven will not be soiled by leakage. Then again, the
+food can be removed from the bag when finished with greater ease than
+when the dish is not used. The dishes are so cheap that they can be
+thrown away with the bag after the food is prepared.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE BAG.
+
+
+I. SELECT a bag that fits the food to be cooked. When a liquid is used
+or a number of ingredients are to be cooked together, use a wood cookery
+dish which holds the food stuffs together and permits their ready
+removal from the bag.
+
+II. Brush over the outside of the bag with a little water to make it
+pliable. Grease the inside except in the case of vegetables or when
+water is added, using for this another little flat brush (kept for this
+purpose) and pure vegetable oil, melted butter or drippings. Apply the
+brush with a rotary motion greasing the bottom first and working toward
+the top; or lay the bag flat on a table, reach inside and grease the
+lower side of the bag, then press the other side against it until both
+surfaces are evenly greased. The up-to-date housewife who is adopting
+the paper-bag culinary cult has also discovered that for greasing the
+bags, a necessary step, there is nothing that can take the place of the
+high grade vegetable oils. They are easily applied and absolutely
+tasteless and odorless, a great point, this, when the bags themselves
+have sometimes been condemned as imparting a foreign odor to foods
+cooked in them, when in reality it was the fault of the special fat with
+which they were greased. Now place the bag flat on the table, seam side
+up and lift the uppermost side while you insert the article to be
+cooked. Press the air out of the bag, fold over the corners and make two
+folds of the mouth of the bag, fastening firmly with three or four
+clips, or even pins. No harm is done if the two lower corners of the bag
+are folded and also fastened with one clip each.
+
+III. Now be sure the oven heat is right. If you are using gas for the
+cooking, light for five minutes before the bag goes into the oven. The
+average oven heat should be not less than 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and
+may be 250 degrees. When the bag is put into the oven, the heat must be
+at once reduced to 170 degrees. An inexperienced cook lacking an oven
+thermometer can test the right degree of heat by placing a bit of paper
+in the oven and noting the color it assumes. At the end of five minutes
+it should be a light golden brown.
+
+If the heat is too intense the bag will burst. Now carefully lay the bag
+on the grid shelves or wire broilers--never on solid shelves, being
+careful to _place the seam side of the bag up_.
+
+This is imperative, as otherwise the juices of the food being cooked may
+cause the seam to open, and distribute its contents over the oven. Once
+placed in position, roasts and entrees on the lower shelf, about an inch
+from the oven floor, fish on the middle shelf, and pastry on the top
+where heat is most intense,--do not move or open the bags until the
+schedule time of their cooking is accomplished. In placing the article
+to be cooked, take care that the bag does not touch the sides of the
+oven and that it is not too close to the flames. When the time limit of
+cooking has expired, take up the bag from the shelf by drawing _with_
+the wires, not across them, which is apt to tear the bag made tender by
+charring. Slip on to the lid of a pot or flat tin held just beneath the
+grid and thence to the heated platter. To secure the gravy, stick a
+pinhole in the bottom of the bag and allow it to drain on to the
+platter, or serving dish. Rip open the bag from the top and throw the
+charred fragments away at once. If to be served hot, arrange at once on
+a heated platter or other dish, with its appropriate garnish.
+
+
+POINTERS FOR PAPER BAG COOKERY.
+
+I. In the case of a coal-heated oven with solid shelves a wire broiler
+or "grid" should be substituted as the heat must be allowed to circulate
+on all sides of the bag.
+
+II. The size of the oven makes no difference but it _must be kept
+clean_.
+
+III. In the case of a fowl or joint see that there are no rough edges or
+bones protruding that will be likely to pierce the bag.
+
+IV. Do not season the article to be cooked too highly as none of the
+seasonings are dissipated during the cooking as is usually the case in
+ordinary boiling or roasting.
+
+V. For cooking fruit, grease the outside of the bag.
+
+VI. In removing the bag from the oven, draw with the wires, not across
+them.
+
+VII. To brown things at the last of the cooking, if necessary, puncture
+a few holes in the top of the bag.
+
+VIII. If a bag breaks in the cooking, as it sometimes will if the heat
+is too intense, do not try to remove the article being cooked from the
+bag, but slip the whole into a new well-greased bag. The use of two bags
+is better than one when things require long cooking or for meats with
+much fat or juicy dishes. While it may cost a bit more, it will save
+much anxiety lest the bag burst.
+
+IX. To avoid having any chance drippings soil the oven floor, slip a
+thin tin baking sheet or shallow dripper under the broiler, letting it
+rest flat on the bottom of the oven. Put in a little hot water and this
+steam will keep the bag moist and do much to discourage its breaking.
+Indeed, in baking any kind of fruit cake, which requires slow cooking,
+quite a little water in the drip-pan underneath is advisable.
+
+X. In baking pastry and cake, a few tiny holes should be made in the
+upper side of the bag before putting in the oven. This will brown the
+surface of the cake delicately.
+
+XI. Do not let the bag touch the sides of the oven or the gas flames.
+
+XII. Wire trivets such as are sold at house-furnishing stores for use in
+cooling bread and cakes will be found a great convenience. If a bag is
+laid on a trivet, it can then be easily set in the oven and as easily
+lifted out when done.
+
+XIII. Never try to take things from the oven with the gas lighted.
+Matches are cheaper than gas, if the oven has to be relighted, and
+burned fingers or wrists are more costly than many matches.
+
+XIV. Use care in opening the oven. A draught from an open door or window
+might cause the gas flame to ignite the bag.
+
+XV. Until taught by experience, follow the time table as given in the
+cookery book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+TIME TABLE.
+
+AS a general rule less time is required for Paper-bag Cookery than any
+other way. While this approximate time table is at your service,
+experience will enable you to modify the figures to suit your own stove
+and your family's predilections as to having things rare or well done.
+
+
+FISH.
+
+ 1 lb. 15 minutes
+ 3 lbs. 30 minutes
+ 6 lbs. 50 minutes
+
+
+ROASTS.
+
+ Beef, 3 lbs. 45 minutes
+ Add 5 minutes for each additional pound.
+ Veal, 5 lbs. 1 hour and a half.
+ Add 7 minutes for each additional pound.
+ Pork, 3 lbs. 50 minutes
+ Add 6 minutes for each additional pound.
+ Mutton, leg 8 pounds An hour and a half
+ Mutton, shoulder 5 pounds 45 minutes
+ Mutton, chops 12 minutes
+ Mutton, cutlets 8 minutes
+ Lamb, leg 7 lbs. 1¾ hours.
+ Lamb, shoulder 50 minutes
+ Lamb, chops 10 minutes
+ Sausages 8 minutes
+ Sliced Bacon 6 minutes
+
+
+POULTRY.
+
+ Turkey (stuffed) 15 lbs. 2½ hours
+ Turkey (not stuffed) 15 lbs. 2 hours
+ Goose (ordinary size) 2 hours
+ Goose (green) 1½ hours
+ Duck (old) 1 hour
+ Duck (young) 35 minutes
+ Guinea, 6 lbs. 1 hour and 40 minutes
+ Chicken (large) 1 hour and a half
+ Chicken (young) 45 minutes
+ Quail and other small birds 15 minutes
+ Stews (meat) medium sized 1½ or two hours
+ Potatoes (Baked) 35 minutes
+ Sweet (ten minutes less than by the other methods of cookery).
+
+
+TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS.
+
+ 4 teaspoonfuls of liquid 1 tablespoonful
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of liquid ½ gill or ¼ cupful
+ 1 tablespoonful of liquid ½ ounce
+ 1 pint of liquid 1 pound
+ 2 gills of liquid 1 cupful or ½ pint
+ 1 kitchen cupful ½ pint
+ 1 quart sifted pastry flour 1 pound
+ 4 cupfuls sifted pastry flour 1 quart or 1 pound
+ 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour 1 ounce
+ 1 rounded tablespoonful granulated sugar 1 ounce
+ 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of ground spice 1 ounce
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful powdered sugar 1 ounce
+ 3 cupfuls cornmeal 1 pound
+ 1 cupful butter ½ pound
+ 1 pint butter 1 pound
+ 1 tablespoonful butter 1 ounce
+ Butter size of an egg 2 ounces
+ 10 eggs 1 pound
+ 1 solid pint chopped meat 1 pound
+ 2 cupfuls granulated sugar 1 pound
+ 1 pint brown sugar 7 ounces
+ 2½ cups powdered sugar 1 pound
+ 1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces
+ 1 cupful rice ½ pound
+ 1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces
+ 1 cupful cleaned and dried currants 6 ounces
+ 1 cupful grated bread crumbs 2 ounces
+ 8 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour 1 cupful
+ 8 rounded tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 cupful
+ 8 rounded tablespoonfuls of butter 1 cupful
+ 1 common tumbler 1 cupful
+ 3 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate 1 ounce
+ 4 gills 1 pint
+ 2 pints 1 quart
+ 4 quarts 1 gallon
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+APPETIZERS AND RELISHES.
+
+
+APPETIZERS play a very important part now-a-days in all up-to-date
+establishments and even in modest homes where they are not only employed
+as introductory to the course dinner, but as a pleasing accessory to the
+afternoon tea service. They are supposed to whet the appetite for the
+heavier dishes that follow. In Europe one always finds them. They are
+considered very "smart" and as they are but little trouble to prepare in
+Paper bag cookery, when one has learned the trick, there is no reason
+why the hostess who aims to keep abreast of the times should not make
+frequent use of them. At very formal affairs, they are placed on the
+service plates after the guests are seated, but usually they are at each
+place when the meal is announced. Canapés (which means "toast cushions"
+or bouchees, small patties or "bites") with their accompanying spread of
+appetizing fish, cheese or potted meats, are newer than the cocktails of
+oyster, clam or grape-fruit that used to lead the feast.
+
+
+=Bouchee Cases.=--These are usually made from pastry by covering tiny
+but deep patty pans with rich pastry, cutting narrow strips to make the
+rim for the cup. Put on a tin in a buttered bag and bake. When cool they
+will slip from the pan. They may be made the day before using if
+preferred.
+
+Another way of preparing them is to cut good sized circles of bread;
+then with a smaller cutter, scrape out a hollow, spread with butter,
+put in the bag and bake ten minutes until browned. When ready to serve,
+fill with any mixture desired and serve hot or cold as appetizers or
+with the salad course.
+
+=Bonne Bouchee.=--Make the pastry cases and when ready to serve fill
+with pate-de-foie gras, made soft with whipped cream, seasoned with
+salt, cayenne or paprika. Decorate each one with an olive or bit of
+aspic jelly.
+
+=Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise.=--Spread circles or
+dominoes of bread with a thin layer of caviare. In the center place a
+pitted olive, green or black, with its pit removed and the cavity filled
+with minced red peppers. Hold the olive in place with a few drops of
+mayonnaise, red or the usual yellow, and put tiny dots of the same about
+the border.
+
+=Bouchees of Sardines.=--Pound one or two boned sardines in a mortar,
+together with a small quantity of cheese. Season with salt, pepper and
+chili vinegar, and add, if you like, a few chopped oysters. Spread this
+mixture on circles of "bagged" bread about the size of a silver dollar,
+and add a garnish of hard-boiled yoke of egg, rubbed through a sieve and
+a little finely minced parsley.
+
+=Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue.=--Cover circles of "bagged" bread with
+red stars cut from boiled tongue or the red imported sausages. Lay on
+the top of each star, log cabin fashion, several tiny lengths of pickled
+gherkins and crown with a sprig of watercress.
+
+=The Making of Canapés.=--Bread two days old is best for the foundation.
+Trim free from crusts, then cut in uniform oblongs, diamonds, triangles,
+circles or fingers as desired, using for this the cutters that come on
+purpose. Butter lightly, spread with the prepared mixture and slip into
+the well-greased paper-bag for five minutes just long enough to brown
+the toast delicately and heat the savory.
+
+=Anchovy Canapés.=--Cut white bread in oblong strips, spread lightly
+with butter, and anchovy paste, and tuck into the buttered bag. Bake
+five minutes, then serve hot, adding, if liked, to each canapé two
+strips of boneless anchovy laid across it diagonally and a squeeze of
+lemon juice.
+
+=Caviare Canapés.=--Cut bread in circles and spread with a mixture of
+three tablespoonfuls caviare paste, one teaspoonful lemon juice, one
+half teaspoonful paprika, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half
+cupful minced cress. Pop in the buttered bag and cook five minutes.
+
+=Hot Cheese Canapés.=--Take circles or strips of Vienna bread, spread
+lightly with butter, grate a little cheese over them, sprinkle on top a
+little cayenne pepper and salt and put in bag. Cook five minutes.
+
+=Cheese and Cracker Canapés.=--Split Boston crackers and soak ten
+minutes in cold water. Lift out carefully and place on a well-buttered
+baking tin. Drop on each a generous bit of butter, a sprinkling of
+grated Parmesan or American cheese and a dusting of paprika. Put in the
+bag, seal and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.
+
+=Cheese Toast Sandwiches.=--Cut slices of white bread rather thicker
+than for sandwiches. Chop fine one cupful of American cheese and two
+green peppers with the seeds removed. Season with salt and pepper and
+work to a paste. Spread one slice of bread with butter and its mate with
+creamed filling. Press firmly together, take off the crusts, and put
+into the buttered bag. Bake five minutes and serve very hot.
+
+=Cracker Crisps.=--Dip oyster crackers or dinner biscuits in melted
+butter, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and put in a paper bag. Bake ten
+minutes.
+
+=Deviled Crackers.=--Mix three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese,
+one-fourth teaspoon of dry mustard, one teaspoon of anchovy paste, a
+dash of cayenne and a pinch of butter. Spread over the crackers and put
+in bag in a hot oven to brown.
+
+=Diables à Cheval.=--Have ready large French prunes that have been
+soaked twenty-four hours in water, then cooked and the pits removed.
+Insert almonds in the cavity left by the pit. Toss in olive oil or
+refined cotton seed oil or roll in thin slices of bacon, fastened with a
+tooth pick, put in the bag, seal and cook eight minutes. Serve piping
+hot.
+
+
+
+NUT APPETIZERS.
+
+=Salted Almonds.=--Shell as many nice large nuts as desired. The Jordan
+nuts are best, but the paper-shelled ones will answer. Put into a bowl
+and cover with boiling water. Spread a towel over the bowl to retain the
+steam and let them stand five minutes. Pour off the water and replace
+with cold, then rub off the brown skins between thumb and forefinger.
+Shake in a colander until dry, then put in a shallow dish adding for
+each cupful of nuts, one tablespoonful melted butter, olive or refined
+cotton seed oil (preferably either of the oils, which will give the
+richer glaze). Stir well together. Let stand an hour, then put into the
+well-greased paper bag, first sprinkling with dry salt, allowing one
+tablespoonful to each cupful of nuts. Fasten and roast ten minutes,
+shaking the bag occasionally. You can do this by the aid of two trivets.
+
+=Deviled Almonds.=--To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne pepper
+with the salt.
+
+=Roasted Chestnuts.=--Make a cross on the shell of the nut using a sharp
+penknife. Put in the oiled bag, dredge lightly with salt, and let cook
+twenty minutes giving an occasional shake.
+
+=Salted Chestnuts.=--Throw into boiling water as many shelled nuts as
+desired. Blanch and dry, patting with a soft towel. Then add olive oil
+or melted butter to the nuts, allowing a teaspoonful to each cup of nuts
+and let them remain in oil half an hour. Dredge with salt, a heaping
+teaspoonful to each cup, then put in oiled bag and let them brown in the
+oven from 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the bag frequently to keep them from
+scorching and make them an even brown. These should be crisp and
+delicate. To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne with the salt. Serve
+at dinner after the cheese.
+
+=Deviled Chestnuts.=--Shell and blanch a quart of chestnuts. Dry
+thoroughly, then brown in paper bag in hot olive oil or butter. Have
+ready a mixture composed of two tablespoonfuls of chopped mixed pickle,
+one tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, one quarter teaspoonful salt and
+a dash of cayenne. Turn this over the hot nuts, and serve at once.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+SOUP ACCESSORIES.
+
+
+=Bread Sticks.=--IN preparing these, any bread dough may be used, though
+that with shortening is preferred. After it is kneaded enough to be
+elastic, cut into pieces half the size of an egg, then roll on the
+molding board into a stick the size of a pencil and about a foot long.
+Lay these strips in the well-greased paper bag, let them rise a little
+before putting in the oven, then fasten the bag and bake with a moderate
+heat, so they will dry without much browning.
+
+=Croutons Toasted.=--Slice bread that is stale but not too dry, into
+pieces about half an inch thick, cut these slices in uniform cubes and
+put in a well-greased bag. Shake occasionally and let toast for ten
+minutes.
+
+=Crisped Crackers.=--Split butter crackers and spread with butter. Put
+into the paper bag buttered side up and bake ten minutes. These are
+delicious with vegetable soups and in fish chowder and oyster stew.
+
+=Egg Balls.=--Drop the yolk of four eggs into a cup and set in a pan of
+water over the fire. When the yolks are cooked hard and mealy, pound to
+a paste and season with an even teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne
+or a more liberal sprinkling of paprika. Mould into balls the size of
+grapes, by mixing the yolk of a raw egg with the cooked paste, rolling
+lightly in the white of an egg, then in flour. Tuck into a small
+buttered bag, fasten, and set in oven for five minutes to become firm.
+
+=Forcemeat Balls or Quenelles.=--Chop very fine any cold meat you have
+on hand, and season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a little
+onion juice. For one cupful of the prepared meat, beat one egg until
+light, stir in with hashed meat and add just enough flour to make
+cohesive. Roll in the hands to the size of hickory nuts, put in paper
+bag and cook ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+SHELL FISH.
+
+
+FISH and the paper bag method of cooking, go hand and glove. The thing
+that every housewife hates most, particularly in a small apartment, or
+in the Winter when it is difficult to get the house thoroughly aired, is
+the pervasive odor that announces to every one in the house or block
+just what you are going to have for dinner. Bagged, the odor is so
+minimized as to be entirely inoffensive. Ten minutes airing after the
+bag is opened will be quite sufficient to dissipate every particle of
+odor. Furthermore, the fish itself is much more delicate and digestible
+with all the flavor of fish and seasoning held in and united in a
+harmonious whole. Of course, this presupposes a fresh fish to start
+with, or one just out of cold storage, before it has had a chance to
+thaw and develope ptomaines. In buying fish, look at the eyes and flesh.
+Fish should be firm to the touch. If pressed by the finger the flesh
+should rise instantly. There should be no impression left. If fish is
+fresh the eyes are bright and the gills red and the scales not easily
+rubbed off. Never lay fish directly on artificial ice, say the
+fishermen, as the ammonia used in the freezing affects them injuriously.
+Shell fish are not so apt to spoil as the other fish.
+
+The wood cookery dishes will be found of great value in cooking all
+kinds of fish in paper bags. In many cases the flavor of the fish is
+improved and the fish can always be taken from the bag with ease and
+served whole if desired.
+
+=Clam Pies.=--Line little tins or moulds with paste and put in a layer
+of raw clams with a seasoning of butter and pepper. Dredge with flour,
+add a spoonful or two of clam juice, cover with the paste, cut a hole in
+the top, brush with beaten egg, slip into the bag, fasten and bake
+twenty minutes.
+
+=Roast Clams.=--Scrub the shells clean and slip in the bag. As soon as
+the shells open, remove carefully and pour off the extra liquor in as
+many small cups as you have persons to serve. Put a cup of the juice to
+which a bit of butter and dusting of pepper has been added, in the
+center of a soup dish, and arrange the clams around it. With an oyster
+fork, the clams may then be removed from the shell, dipped into the
+liquor and eaten. Serve very hot with quarters of lemon.
+
+=Crabs, Soft and Hard.=--While soft shell crabs are too expensive for
+the purse of moderate depth, the hard shell crustacean is always in
+order and greatly to be desired. Crabs, like all other shell fish, are
+best when fresh from their native waters, and the individual who can do
+his own crabbing and then eat the fruits of his labor with the flavor of
+the sea still with them, has nothing more to be desired from a
+gastronomic standpoint. In most markets crabs may be found both alive
+and boiled. If alive, keep them in cold water until ready to cook. If
+already boiled, use them as soon as possible as they do not keep well
+for more than twenty-four hours. When ready to cook live crabs, take up
+on a skimmer, handling gingerly so as to avoid a pinch, and drop into a
+large kettle of boiling salted water. Cook gently fifteen minutes, or
+until a bright red, skim out, and cool, twist off the claws, remove the
+upper shell from the under, scrape the spongy portions from the sides,
+remove the green portion and wash free from sand. Crack the large claws
+and remove the meat. If you are to serve the crab meat in the shells,
+wash and dry as many of the upper ones as desired. These preliminaries
+attended to, the crabs are ready to use, in any one of a dozen different
+ways.
+
+=Creamed Crabs.=--Remove the meat from a half dozen hard-shelled crabs.
+Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter and a tablespoonful of finely chopped
+onion until yellow, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour in
+gradually a cup of cream. As soon as blended and smooth, add the crab
+meat, salt and paprika to season, a tiny grating of nutmeg and a
+tablespoonful of sherry wine. Spread on slices of toast, grate a little
+cheese on top, put into a bag, seal, set in the oven a moment to heat
+through, then serve.
+
+=Crabs Deviled à la William Penn.=--Boil hard-shelled crabs, then remove
+the under part without breaking the upper shell. Take out the crab meat,
+add about half the quantity of bread crumbs and some chopped hard boiled
+eggs, with salt, cayenne and lemon juice to season. Form into a paste
+with a little melted butter and fill the shells. Sift buttered crumbs
+over the top, slip in the bag and cook ten minutes in a hot oven.
+
+=Crab Meat au Gratin.=--Mix the meat from six crabs with a third the
+amount finely chopped, sweet, green peppers. Add the yolks of two eggs
+beaten with a half cup cream and a little sherry, and toss in a saucepan
+until hot and creamy. Put the mixture into the cleaned crab shells or
+the little brown ramequins, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and fine
+crumbs; put in bag and crisp in a hot oven.
+
+=Crab Flakes au Gratin.=--Add to one pint crab flakes, one-half cupful
+cream sauce, two tablespoonfuls melted butter and a quarter teaspoonful
+paprika. Mix well together, place in a small wood cookery dish or
+ramequins, sprinkle the top with toast crumbs and a light sprinkling of
+Roman cheese. Put into bags, bake and serve. If any be left over, it
+makes a delicious salad served on lettuce with mayonnaise.
+
+=Lobster Chops.=--Put into a saucepan a heaping tablespoonful of butter
+and two very heaping ones of flour. As soon as melted and frothed, add
+one cupful of hot milk or cream, and stir until the mixture is smooth
+and thick. Season with salt and paprika, take from the fire, add two
+cups of the lobster, cut fine, mix well and turn on to a platter to get
+as cold as possible. When cold and firm, form into balls, then flatten
+into chops, roll in egg, then in cracker crumbs and set away on the ice
+until ready to cook. Put in buttered paper bag and cook ten minutes.
+When ready to serve, tuck one of the little claws in the small end to
+simulate a chop bone and garnish with lemon and parsley. For Sunday
+night supper these chops may be cooked early in the day, then simply
+re-bagged and heated in the oven for the meal.
+
+=Coquilles of Lobster.=--Cook two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion
+in a tablespoonful butter for fifteen minutes. Have ready a cream sauce
+made by melting together over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter
+and flour, then thinning with a cupful of white stock that has been
+cooked with a small bouquet of sweet herbs. Salt and pepper to taste,
+and if you like add half a cupful chopped mushrooms and their liquor.
+Add to the lightly browned onions two cupfuls finely cut lobster meat, a
+tablespoonful minced parsley, one cupful of the made sauce and salt and
+paprika. Cook together ten minutes, then put the mixture into the
+shells, pour a little of the sauce over each, sprinkle with buttered
+bread crumbs, bag, and bake about ten minutes or until they are browned.
+
+=Lobster in Shells.=--Cut the meat from two cans of lobster into small
+pieces. Sprinkle a few bread crumbs and a little salt and pepper over
+it. Then put in shells. On each shell put a good sized lump of butter,
+two teaspoonfuls of wine, some more salt and pepper and some more bread
+crumbs. Put prepared shells in a paper bag, put in a hot oven and cook
+ten minutes.
+
+=Mussels au Gratin.=--Remove and clean the mussels, straining all the
+liquor thoroughly. Then make this sauce: Fry two tablespoonfuls of
+chopped onions in butter for a few minutes, but do not let them brown;
+add about a teaspoonful of flour, and, while the onions are blending,
+add the liquor of the mussels, stirring it in slowly. Cook this mixture
+for a few minutes; then add a tablespoonful of vinegar, the same
+quantity of chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Butter a
+shallow earthen or wooden baking dish; in the bottom spread a layer of
+the sauce, lay the mussels on top of it and cover them with the balance
+of the sauce. Over all this spread a thin coating of breadcrumbs; butter
+and bake in bag until they have browned. Serve in the same dish in which
+they were baked.
+
+=Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style).=--Take crusty rolls, cut off the top
+and scoop out the hearts leaving them each like a box. Fill the space
+with oysters, seasoning with salt, pepper and butter and sprinkling over
+them some of the crumb of the roll that you have removed. Put bits of
+butter on top, then replace the cover. Set the rolls in the buttered bag
+and pour the strained oyster liquor over them. Put into a hot oven and
+bake for fifteen minutes. Serve hot. Lemon juice or a little mace is
+sometimes used for seasoning the oysters.
+
+=Spindled Oysters and Bacon.=--For two dozen large oysters have two
+dozen thin slices bacon, and a half dozen slices crisp toast. Have ready
+a half dozen slender steel skewers. Fill these skewers with alternate
+slices of bacon and oysters, running the skewer crosswise through the
+eye of the oyster and threading the bacon by one corner, so that each
+slice blankets an oyster. Do not crowd. Lay the skewers in a buttered
+bag, and cook in a quick oven ten minutes. Lay each spindle with its
+contents undisturbed on a slice of toast, pour the drip from the bag
+over them and serve at once.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+FISH.
+
+
+=Filet of Bass.=--WASH and wipe the filets dry with a clean towel,
+trimming away the fins with a pair of large scissors close to the filet.
+Dust with salt and lay in a covered dish with a minced onion, the juice
+of half a lemon and a bit of finely cut parsley and thyme. Let them
+stand half an hour. Twenty minutes before serving wipe dry again, dust
+lightly with flour, dip in well-beaten egg, then roll in fine bread
+crumbs. When all are prepared, put in greased bag and cook twenty
+minutes until a delicate brown. Arrange on a warm dish and serve with
+parsley and lemon or sauce tartare. Filets of sole may be cooked in the
+same way.
+
+=Baked Blue Fish.=--Clean thoroughly, cut off head and tail and fill
+with a soft bread stuffing. Tie up securely, rub over the outside of the
+fish with sweet vegetable oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a
+squeeze of lemon juice and slip into the greased bag. Seal and cook from
+twenty to forty minutes according to weight. Serve with sliced lemon
+rolled in fine cut parsley.
+
+=A Breakfast Dish of Bloaters.=--Few people know how very nice smoked
+and dried fish can be when cooked in a paper bag and seasoned in the
+French fashion. Cut off the head and tail of the fish, loosen the skin
+at the neck with a knife and holding it firmly between the knife and
+finger, pull it off. Split the fish with a sharp knife, remove the
+backbone and soak in cold water over night, or if you forget to do that,
+for twenty minutes in water nearly at the boiling point. Arrange the
+filets in a wooden baking dish, cover with milk, dot with bits of
+butter, put in bag and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Garnish
+with a little finely chopped parsley or sprigs of water cress and serve
+with paper-bag baked potatoes. On a cool morning there are few more
+appetizing breakfast dishes, while its cheapness puts it within the
+reach of the most impecunious. For a change the filets may be baked in
+buttered paper cases or cooked au gratin still in paper bags.
+
+=Cat Fish.=--For the small sized cat fish--clean, wash, dry well, salt
+and pepper inside and out, then grease well with butter or vegetable oil
+and roll in fine, sifted bread crumbs or corn meal. Lay in a
+well-greased bag on thin sliced bacon, put a few more slices of bacon on
+top. Seal and cook half an hour.
+
+=Codfish Cones.=--"Pick up" enough salt codfish to make two cupfuls of
+the shreds. Cover with cold water and let stand for two hours, then
+drain, make a cream sauce, using two level tablespoonfuls each butter
+and flour, and one cupful of hot milk. Mash and season enough hot boiled
+potatoes to measure two cupfuls, add sauce and fish and beat well with a
+fork. Shape in small cones, brush with melted butter, dredge with fine
+bread crumbs and put in a paper bag. Cook ten minutes. If desired some
+thin slices of bacon can be cooked at the same time in a separate bag
+and be used as a garnish for the cones.
+
+=Codfish à la Crême.=--Cook the fish first in boiling salted water which
+has been very slightly acidulated with vinegar. Let it cook until the
+flesh separates from the bones. After draining thoroughly and removing
+the skin and bones, break the flesh into large flakes. Pour a highly
+seasoned white sauce over it. It may now be cooked in a wooden baking
+dish in the bag, or it may be prepared as follows: Press it into the
+form of an oblong mould, using only just enough sauce to hold the flakes
+together. Not as much sauce is needed as when the fish is browned in a
+baking dish. Brush the top liberally with melted butter, sprinkle with
+rolled cracker crumbs. Put the mold in a paper bag in the oven, and let
+the fish acquire a nutty, crisp crust. Send to the table garnished with
+lemon and parsley or thin slices of tomato and a few sprays of water
+cress.
+
+=Paper Bagged Eels.=--Eels may be cooked in a paper bag without growing
+as hard as they are apt to do as ordinarily treated. Allow one-half
+pound of eels (after they are dressed) to a person. Wash them
+thoroughly, removing all blood from slit in eels. Cut in two-inch
+pieces, put in a dish and sprinkle a teaspoonful of salt to every pound
+over them. Now pour over them boiling water, enough to cover well, and
+let stand until water is cold. Pour water off and leave eels where they
+will drain until nearly dry. Take sufficient Indian meal to roll them
+in, add a little pepper to it and roll each piece until well covered.
+Place in a well-greased bag and cook about twenty minutes, when they
+will be a rich brown, thoroughly cooked and deliciously juicy.
+
+=Flounder à la Meuniére.=--Chop a small shallot and mix with a
+teaspoonful of anchovy paste, a squeeze of lemon juice, an ounce of
+butter, a little chopped parsley, a dash of cayenne, salt and pepper to
+taste. Put the fish with the seasoning inside of a well-buttered bag,
+after dredging the fish with flour. Pour a tablespoonful of melted
+butter over the fish, seal up and cook. A two-pound fish, whole,
+requires thirty minutes. The same weight of filets cook in eight
+minutes.
+
+=Filets of Flounder.=--Remove the filets from a medium sized flounder
+and cut each filet in two. Season with salt and pepper and a few drops
+of lemon juice and fold each filet in two or roll up skin side inwards.
+Put a small piece of butter, or a teaspoonful of vegetable oil on top of
+each and place carefully in the well-greased bag. Seal the mouth of the
+bag, and cook about ten minutes on the wire grid in a hot oven.
+
+Remove from the bag, lift carefully on to a hot platter, garnish with
+water cress or parslied lemon slices and serve.
+
+=Finnan Haddie.=--Pick out a fish that is thick through the centre,
+weighing about two pounds. Soak in cold water, after washing well, for
+an hour. Brush all over with melted butter, dredge with flour, put in a
+well-buttered bag, skin side down, dot with butter and pour over it a
+cup of hot milk. Seal securely and bake in a very hot oven twenty
+minutes. The fish may be served whole, or flaked--free from bones and
+skin--and served with cream sauce.
+
+=Finnan Haddie.=--Prepare in the regular way, lay in wood cookery dish,
+skin side down, season with bits of butter, add a small cupful of warm
+milk, put in bag and seal. Bake twenty-five minutes and serve from the
+dish with cream sauce. This eliminates the washing of dishes with the
+strong fishy odor.
+
+=Fish Cakes.=--Use for this two cupfuls cold fish freed from skin and
+bones and chopped fine, and the same amount of cooked, seasoned and
+mashed potatoes. Mix well, season with salt and pepper, add two
+tablespoonfuls vegetable oil or melted butter and two tablespoonfuls of
+milk. Whip the mixture until as "light as feathers." Shape into small,
+flat cakes of even size. Beat up an egg on a plate, then egg the cakes
+and roll deftly in the finest of sifted bread crumbs and again shape.
+Put in well-greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven. Cook about twenty
+minutes.
+
+=New England Fish Pie.=--Have a pound of cod steak boned and cut in
+pieces. Roll each piece in slightly salted flour, and season with
+paprika or white pepper. Lay in the well-greased bag and put on top of
+the fish a layer of oysters with their juice and a squeeze of lemon
+juice. Sprinkle with a layer of finely rolled and buttered cracker
+crumbs, dot with a few bits of butter, seal the bag and bake slowly
+fifteen minutes. Have ready some hot mashed potato well seasoned with
+cream and butter. Take the grid and bag from the oven, tear off the top
+of the bag, spread the potato over the fish like a crust, brush over
+with a little milk mixed with a portion of an egg yolk and set back in
+oven for five minutes to brown and glaze, turning the grid with the bag
+twice during the cooking. Cut open the bag, put the fish balls on a hot
+platter, garnish and serve plain with a tomato sauce.
+
+=Fish Soufflé.=--One pint of boiled halibut or other delicate fish,
+freed from bones and skin and mashed to a pulp. Season with one small
+teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and one teaspoonful of onion
+juice. Melt a large tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and cook in
+it for three minutes a tablespoonful of flour. Add slowly a cupful of
+milk and the seasoned fish pulp. Beat two eggs thoroughly and add the
+fish to them. Pour all into bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a
+moderate oven, half an hour.
+
+=Planked Fish Bag-Cooked.=--Planked fish responds beautifully to the
+paper-bag treatment, and there is no better way of developing the
+distinctive flavor of any of the delicate white-meated fish. The plank
+however should not be as thick as that usually required. It must be of
+hard-wood, hickory, cherry, live oak, cedar or ash--well seasoned and
+sawed about a half inch in thickness, rounded and tapered at one end
+like an ironing board. This to accommodate the tail of the fish. If
+cooking small fish use the oval wood cooking dishes made of maple wood.
+
+Make it very hot in the oven or under the gas flame, then grease well
+with vegetable oil, olive or the refined cotton seed, and lay on it the
+fish cleaned, split down the back, seasoned, oiled all over with the
+sweetest of vegetable oils or butter and spread out as flat as possible
+with the skin side next to the hot board. Slip into the greased bag and
+fasten tightly. If you use the gas oven for planking your fish, as most
+of us do, turn on both burners until the oven is very hot. Then set in
+the fish with a trivet under the bag the same as if you were cooking
+without the plank.
+
+Bake from thirty to forty-five minutes, then serve piping hot on the
+plank which has been taken out of the bag, set on a big japanned tray
+and garnished with hot mashed potato pressed through a tube in rose
+fashion at regular intervals, alternating with mounds of peas or carrot
+dice, sprigs of watercress or parsley and thin slices of lemon rolled in
+fine minced parsley. Accompany with sauce tartare or parsley butter.
+
+=Halibut à la Poulette.=--Take two pounds of halibut, arrange in
+filets, freeing from skin and bone; then cut into narrow strips. Season
+with salt, pepper and lemon juice; cut two onions in slices and lay on
+the filets, then set away for half an hour. At the end of this time have
+ready one-third cup melted butter or refined vegetable oil. Dip the
+filets in this, roll, skewer into shape and dredge with flour. Arrange
+in a well-buttered bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
+Serve with white sauce and two hard boiled eggs, sliced for a garnish.
+
+=Herring au Gratin.=--Soak and filet the herring. Butter a bag and strew
+the bottom with the bread crumbs well-buttered, a layer of grated cheese
+and a little minced chives or parsley. Sprinkle with pepper and lay in
+the filets of herring, plain or alternately with sliced tomato. Cover
+with more crumbs, parsley, cheese and butter, close the bag, and bake
+fifteen minutes until a good brown.
+
+=Herrings With Herbs.=--Take four dried herrings, bone them, fill the
+cavities with a little (about half a teaspoonful to each fish) finely
+minced shallot or chives, and parsley. Add a few fresh breadcrumbs and
+tiny bits of butter. If liked, a tiny grate of nutmeg may be added as
+well as a good dust of pepper. Put into a well-greased bag and bake in
+the oven for ten minutes. Dish up and serve as hot as possible. Other
+dried fish are excellent prepared in the same way.
+
+=Kedgeree.=--Mix one cup of shredded fish with one cupful of boiled
+rice, tender and well drained. Put into a well-buttered wooden baking
+dish, while you prepare the sauce. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful
+each of butter and flour and as soon as melted and "bubbly," add one cup
+of hot milk. Stir until smooth and thick, season with salt and pepper,
+take from the fire, add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, that have
+been rubbed through a sieve, pour over the rice and fish. Put the dish
+in a well-buttered bag and set in the oven until thoroughly hot and
+delicately browned.
+
+=Kippered Mackerel With Fine Herbs.=--Cut salt mackerel into filets, lay
+them in a deep earthen dish and cover with boiling water. Leave in water
+half a minute. Take out, wipe dry, dust with coarse black pepper and put
+on top of each filet half a teaspoonful of minced parsley and chives or
+onion and a bit of butter the size of a small walnut. Grease a bag well,
+put in the filets; seal and cook for twenty minutes in a hot oven. Serve
+hot, with brown bread and butter.
+
+=Salmon Loaf.=--Mince one can of salmon, removing all bits of bone. Add
+to it a cupful fine, stale bread crumbs, two beaten eggs, a half cupful
+milk and salt, pepper, parsley and lemon juice to season. Put in a
+wooden mould in a buttered bag and bake or steam for half an hour. Turn
+out and serve hot with a white or Hollandaise sauce.
+
+=Scalloped Salmon.=--Put a layer of soft grated bread crumbs in the
+bottom of a wooden baking dish that has been well-buttered. Sprinkle the
+bread crumbs with salt, pepper and bits of butter. Cover with a layer of
+flaked salmon, seasoning with salt and pepper and pouring in some of the
+oil and liquor from the can. Over this spread another layer of the
+seasoned crumbs, then more salmon and so on until the dish is filled.
+Let the last layer be of buttered crumbs moistening slightly with a
+little milk. Spread a little soft butter over the surface and bake in a
+buttered bag for half an hour in a hot oven to a rich brown.
+
+=Salmon Soufflé.=--Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and
+melt without browning. Add one tablespoonful of flour, stir until
+blended, then pour in one cup of warm milk. When thickened and smooth,
+add the yolk of one egg, one cup of salmon flaked, a tablespoonful of
+cream and a tiny bit of essence of anchovy and pepper to season. Mix
+carefully and well, fold in the white of one egg beaten until stiff and
+dry; then fill ramekins or wooden dish three-quarters full. Put in a bag
+and brown in a quick oven. Serve very hot. Chopped parsley may be added
+if desired.
+
+=Baked Shad.=--In dressing the fish, cut as small an opening as
+possible. Wash well, dry and fill with a dressing made in this way. Pour
+over one cupful dry bread crumbs enough cold water or milk to moisten.
+Add a teaspoonful melted butter, and a teaspoonful minced parsley. Mix
+thoroughly and fill the fish, sewing or skewering the opening together.
+Use a wood cookery dish and put into a buttered bag two or three slices
+of wafer-thin salt pork and having salted and peppered the outside of
+the fish lay carefully on top the sliced pork. Lay as many more thin
+slices on top of the fish, or wipe over with olive oil. Seal, set in the
+oven and bake three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Serve with
+sauce tartare or a good brown sauce enriched with a small glass of
+Madeira.
+
+=Shad Roe.=--As soon as the fish comes from the water or market, plunge
+the roe into boiling salted water to which a tablespoonful of lemon
+juice or vinegar has been added. Cook gently about ten minutes, lift out
+with a skimmer and slip into a bowl of ice water to become firm. When
+ready to cook, split lengthwise if plump and full, brush over with olive
+oil, melted butter or refined cotton seed oil, and tuck at once into
+the well-greased bag. Some cooks prefer to dust the roe with fine bread
+crumbs, lay into beaten egg, then dust once more with sifted crumbs
+before "bagging". Serve simply with lemon and cress, with sauce tartare
+or mayonnaise, or with a sauce prepared as follows: Put into a saucepan
+two tablespoonfuls butter or olive oil, one tablespoonful lemon juice,
+and chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. Heat to the
+boiling point and pour over the roe.
+
+=Smelts.=--Smelts skewered in rings, using a wooden toothpick to hold
+heads and tails together, dipped in milk, well floured and fried in deep
+fat, make an attractive fish course. The use of a wood cookery dish here
+is strongly recommended. The skewer can be removed before serving, as
+the fish will usually keep its shape. Garnish the plate on which the
+fish are served with cress and slices of lemon rolled in finely minced
+parsley. If the smelts are to furnish the main part of the meal, pile
+them in the center of a hot platter and surround with a border of mashed
+potato, or mound the potato and circle with the fish for a border.
+
+=Bagged Weak Fish.=--Well grease a bag, with butter or vegetable oil.
+Prepare a weak fish as for frying by seasoning with salt, pepper and
+dredging well with flour. Rub melted butter on both sides, place it in
+the bag, skin side down, lightly dredge the upper side again with flour
+and dot with butter. Peel and cut an onion in half, put in the bag but
+not on the fish. Close the bag, seal and cook on the wire rack or
+broiler in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes.
+
+=White Fish Planked.=--Remove the head and tail and bone of the fish.
+Wash carefully and place in wooden cookery dish, skin side down. Season
+with salt, pepper, bits of butter and chopped onion. Roll a half dozen
+oysters in cracker crumbs, place on top of fish, and put the dish in the
+bag. Bake forty minutes. Set the wooden dish on a hot platter and serve.
+The skin of the fish and remnants can be left in the dish which can then
+be thrown away. Halibut and mackerel are especially fine when prepared
+in these wood cookery dishes as it holds them intact in process of
+cooking and serving.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+FISH SAUCE.
+
+
+=Anchovy Sauce.=--POUND three anchovies smooth with three spoonfuls of
+butter, add two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a quarter of a cupful of
+water. Bring to the boil and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour
+rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Strain through a sieve and serve
+hot.
+
+=Quick Bearnaise Sauce.=--Beat the yolks of four eggs with four
+tablespoonfuls of oil and four of water. Add a cupful of boiling water
+and cook slowly until thick and smooth. Take from the fire and add
+minced onion, capers, olives, pickles and parsley and a little tarragon
+vinegar.
+
+=Bearnaise Sauce.=--This calls for four small, chopped shallots, one
+branch of chopped tarragon, two tablespoonfuls of wine vinegar, two raw
+egg yolks, two and a half ounces of hot melted butter, half a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of pepper. Put the
+shallots, vinegar, tarragon and pepper in a saucepan and let it stand on
+a slow fire until its contents are reduced to one-half their original
+quantity. Squeeze the mixture through a cloth into another saucepan. Add
+the egg yolks and beat the mixture four minutes without allowing it to
+boil. Then add the melted butter very gradually, still keeping the pan
+where there is no danger of boiling. Season with a saltspoonful of salt
+and a half saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. It is well to make the last
+an extremely scanty portion, as more may be added if desired, but none
+can be removed. Stir all again quite thoroughly for a minute. Add the
+parsley and serve.
+
+=Brown Sauce.=--Brown two tablespoonfuls of flour in butter. Add two
+cupfuls of milk or cream and cook until thick, stirring constantly.
+
+=Curry Sauce.=--Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in butter and add a
+tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a teaspoonful of curry powder. Mix
+thoroughly, add one cupful of cold water, and cook until thick, stirring
+constantly. Take from the fire, season with salt and onion juice and
+serve hot.
+
+=Egg Sauce.=--Mix a half cup of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, and a
+cupful of boiling water and set the sauce pan on the stove. Stir until
+thickened, seasoning with salt and pepper. Add two hard boiled eggs,
+chopped fine, and serve.
+
+=Sauce Hollandaise.=--This is really a warm mayonnaise, using butter
+instead of vegetable oil. It is the best sauce for serving with salmon
+or other boiled fish if you desire it hot. It requires a quarter pound
+butter, half a lemon, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt and a half
+teaspoonful white pepper. The secret of its successful making is to
+preserve an even temperature. The sauce should not approach the boiling
+point, as the eggs would cook and the sauce curdle. Put the eggs in a
+small saucepan and add the butter, gradually stirring constantly with a
+wooden spoon. It will soon thicken like a mayonnaise. When the butter is
+all in, add salt and pepper and lastly the lemon juice, stirring until
+well mixed. If the sauce becomes thick, add a little stock or hot
+water. Surround the fish with parsley and slices of lemon and serve the
+sauce in a bowl. A few sliced cucumbers should be served with fish.
+
+=Egg Sauce Made From the Hollandaise.=--Egg sauce may be made from the
+Hollandaise by sprinkling with two finely chopped hard boiled eggs and a
+teaspoonful of parsley.
+
+=Lobster Sauce.=--This is delicious with any white fleshed fish. Its
+foundation is Hollandaise sauce, which is also the foundation of most of
+the fish sauces. To make it, stir together one tablespoonful of butter,
+a few drops of onion juice, a bit of bay leaf (not too much), pepper to
+season, and the juice of a half lemon. Add a half cup of white stock or
+hot water and set the bowl containing the mixture in a pan of hot water
+and stir until the butter melts. As soon as very hot, take from the fire
+and stir a little of the mixture in the well-beaten yolks of one and
+one-half eggs, then add the rest of the sauce and return to the fire.
+Stir constantly for five minutes or until thickened. Add a teaspoonful
+of butter, half the pounded coral of a lobster and a tablespoonful of
+chopped lobster meat.
+
+=Maitre d'Hotel Butter.=--This is perhaps the simplest and best sauce to
+serve on fried or broiled fish. To make it, beat a heaping tablespoonful
+of butter to a cream in a warm bowl; add the juice of a lemon, a half
+teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of minced parsley. A grating of
+nutmeg or bit of chives is sometimes added. If placed on the ice this
+can be kept on hand a week or more. It is also excellent spread over a
+juicy steak.
+
+=Sauce for Broiled Shad à la Murray.=--Fry the milts, and while hot mash
+with butter, a tablespoonful minced parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon
+juice. Season lightly with salt and pepper and spread over the fish when
+removed from the bag. Set in the oven one moment, then serve.
+
+=Parsley Butter.=--To make this delectable fish sauce, mix one ounce
+fresh butter with a teaspoonful each chopped parsley and lemon juice,
+half teaspoonful chopped mixed tarragon and cress or chervil and salt
+and pepper to season. Spread on a plate, set on the ice until cold then
+shape into pats. This is nice with any fish.
+
+=Sauce Tartare.=--This is one of the standbys that no housekeeper liable
+to the unexpected appearance of guests should be without. It can be used
+in an emergency for so many different things. It is delicious with fish,
+cold or hot, broiled or deviled chicken, tongue, beef, cauliflower or
+potato salad. It is easy to make, the only essentials being good
+materials, everything cold, and the oil added very slowly at first.
+After that it may be poured in in larger quantities and more frequently.
+Mix in a small bowl one half teaspoonful dry mustard, the same amount
+each powdered sugar and salt, and a quarter teaspoonful cayenne. Add the
+yolks of two fresh eggs, and stir. Measure out a cupful of olive oil and
+add a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If it begins to
+thicken too much to stir easily, thin with a little lemon juice, adding
+oil and lemon alternately until you have used all the oil and two
+tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Lastly beat in two tablespoonfuls of
+tarragon or other vinegar. This gives the regular mayonnaise, which
+should be smooth and thick. Now to make it into sauce tartare, add one
+teaspoonful finely chopped onion or onion juice, a tablespoonful of
+chopped pickle, capers, olives and parsley, in any proportion desired.
+You may use simply the sour cucumber pickle or part pickle and olives,
+capers, etc. This may be kept for a number of days in cold weather by
+keeping in glass and in a cool place.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+POULTRY AND GAME.
+
+
+=Capon.=--CAPON is the best of all poultry, having been specially
+treated and fattened for the table. They can be distinguished in the
+market by the head, tail and wing feathers being left intact. They are
+always high in price and considered great luxuries. They are cooked the
+same as chicken. If to be stuffed, choose a delicate dressing like
+oysters or chestnuts. Cut the neck off short and remove the oil bag from
+the root of the tail. Singe carefully, pluck out every lingering pin
+feather, wash quickly with a rough, clean cloth and warm--not
+hot--water; dash cold water over it, let drain, then wipe carefully with
+a soft, damp cloth inside and out. Salt lightly inside and dust with
+pepper, stuff with whatever dressing you elect to have, truss, fasten
+thin slices of bacon or salt pork over the breast and thighs, grease the
+entire body liberally with soft butter or vegetable oils, put into a
+loose fitting well-greased bag, breast down, seal, lay on a trivet, set
+on broiler in hot oven, let cook till bag corners turn very brown, then
+slack heat one-half, or even a little more if the heat is fierce, and
+cook from an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters. The capon
+should be a golden brown all over, except on the back where it touches
+the bag and underneath the bacon slices. But it will be as well done
+everywhere as in the brown part. Cook the liver, gizzard and neck in a
+small separate bag, wrapping each in a slice of bacon and seasoning
+them with salt and pepper. Add a very little water, seal and put on to
+cook less than an hour before dinner time. The slow heat will make them
+very tender. Cooked with capon, they would be overdone. Serve with sweet
+potatoes Southern style, or baked apples slightly sweetened.
+
+=Chicken with Parsnips.=--Wash, parboil and scrape a quart of tender
+parsnips. Split a Spring chicken down the back and lay in a buttered
+bag, skin side up. Arrange the sliced parsnips around the chicken,
+sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot with bits of butter until a half cup
+has been used, and top with two or three thin slices of fat, salt pork.
+Put a half cup hot water in the bag and bake to a delicate brown. Put
+the chicken on a hot platter and arrange the parsnips around it. Make a
+cream gravy from the drippings in the bag and serve with mashed
+potatoes, currant jelly and beet greens.
+
+=Chicken à la Baltimore.=--Take two small Spring chickens, prepare as
+for broiling, but cut into joints. Wipe dry, season well with salt and
+pepper, dip into beaten egg, then cover well with bread crumbs. Place in
+a well-buttered bag, pour a little melted butter or oil over them and
+bake in the oven twenty or twenty-five minutes. Serve with cream sauce
+and garnish with thin, crisped slices of bacon and tiny corn oysters.
+
+=Chicken Croquettes.=--This may be made from left-over cooked chicken or
+from canned chicken. For a dozen croquettes allow one cupful of solid
+meat chopped fine, a cupful of cream sauce, made by cooking together
+four tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour, then stirring in a scant
+cupful of hot milk and cooking until smooth and thick. Combine chicken
+and sauce, season with half a teaspoonful each plain and celery salt, a
+teaspoonful of onion juice, a little lemon juice and chopped parsley.
+Mix thoroughly, then set the mixture away to cool. When cool and stiff
+roll in finely powdered bread crumbs so that every bit of the chicken is
+covered and shape into cones, cutlets or cylinders. Have ready a beaten
+egg to which a scant tablespoonful of milk has been added, dip the
+croquettes in this, drain well, roll in crumbs again, and again set
+aside to cool and stiffen. When ready to cook, slip in well-buttered bag
+and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes.
+
+=Paper Bagged Chicken.=--Split the chicken down the middle of the back,
+spread flat, and put a skewer in each side to prevent it from curling.
+Beat up a very fresh egg, with a pinch of salt, black pepper to taste,
+an ounce of melted butter, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce or
+something similar and a teaspoonful of made mustard. Mix well. With a
+brush glaze the chicken with the mixture. Place in a greased bag with
+bread crumbs around and over it. Be careful that the skewers do not tear
+the bag. Seal up tight and cook from thirty-five to forty minutes in a
+very hot oven.
+
+=Chicken Pie.=--Disjoint two chickens and cook until tender in just
+enough water to cover. Remove all the thick skin and the largest bones.
+Line a baking dish with good paste, pack the chicken in layers and dust
+each with salt, pepper and flour. Pour in enough of the chicken liquor
+to come nearly to the top; lay on a tablespoon of butter and cover with
+a crust after cutting out a piece as large as the top of a small cup.
+Moisten the edges and press together, then ornament the top with leaves
+cut from the trimmings of paste. Bag and bake in a quick oven.
+
+=Paste for Chicken Pie.=--Sift five level teaspoons of baking powder and
+one level teaspoon of salt with four cups of flour and rub in one cup of
+butter until like coarse meal. Mix with nearly two cups of milk or
+enough to make a dough that can be rolled out. This makes a more
+hygienic crust than where no baking powder is used.
+
+=Chicken Rissoles.=--Chop fine two cupfuls chicken and dressing or any
+scraps left. Add two spoonfuls mashed potato, the beaten yolk of one
+egg, salt and pepper to season. Roll in balls, dip in beaten egg yolk,
+then in fine bread crumbs and place in paper bag. Bake twenty minutes.
+
+=Roast Chicken.=--Cover the breast of the fowl or chicken with butter,
+drippings, or any refined vegetable oil or tie a piece of fat bacon over
+it. Place in a bag and set on broiler in a hot oven. Allow twenty-five
+minutes for a small Spring chicken, thirty-five minutes for a large
+fowl, forty-five to fifty minutes (according to size) for stuffed
+poultry in a moderate oven.
+
+=Saute of Chicken With Mushrooms.=--Cut a young, tender chicken into
+joints, trim off all projecting bones, season with salt and pepper--not
+too highly--and brush over with melted butter. Put into a well-buttered
+wooden cook dish, with eight or twelve small mushrooms, cut in slices.
+Add a pinch of herbs, a very small onion, and a half gill of good white
+stock. Seal bag tight, give ten minutes in a very hot oven, then thirty
+in moderate heat. Take up on a hot dish and keep hot, while you make the
+gravy. Take for the gravy the hot liquor from the bag, put it in a bowl
+with the yolk of an egg beaten up in half a gill of cream. Stir hard
+over hot water, but do not let boil. When thoroughly blended, pour over
+the chicken, garnish with chopped parsley, a few mushroom heads and half
+moons of crisp puff paste. Serve as hot as possible.
+
+=Smothered Chicken.=--Have a good sized broiler cut into joints, taking
+care not to leave sharp bones projecting. Salt and pepper them lightly,
+dredge with flour and lay in a well-greased bag upon thin slices of
+bacon. Cover the chicken with more bacon slices, taking care to keep the
+chicken spread rather flat. Add a tablespoonful of water or a couple of
+peeled and sliced tomatoes. Shreds of green pepper add somewhat of
+flavor to the tomatoes. Seal in a bag and cook for forty minutes,
+slacking the heat almost half after the first five minutes. Serve on a
+hot dish with gravy from the bag.
+
+=Ducks With Banana Dressing.=--Wash with cold salt water inside and out,
+drain, wipe dry and season lightly with salt and pepper. Make a dressing
+of toasted bread crumbs mixed with an equal quantity of banana. Cut in
+small pieces, well seasoned with chopped celery, salt and pepper. Stuff,
+truss, grease all over and tie slices of bacon over the breast. Put in a
+well-greased bag, add the juice of a lemon, and a wine glass of sherry.
+Seal and put in a very hot oven. At the end of fifteen minutes reduce
+heat one-half and cook for fifty minutes longer.
+
+=Canvas Backs.=--Draw the ducks as soon as they are received, pluck,
+singe and wipe them with a damp cloth, but under no conditions wash
+them. When ready to cook, truss, dust lightly with pepper, and salt and
+spread them thickly with butter or vegetable oil. A very slight dusting
+of flour should be given when they are put into the oven. After
+eighteen minutes of intense heat they are ready to serve, accompanied by
+toasted hominy and black currant jelly.
+
+=Chicken, Italian Style.=--Chop fine one onion, one small carrot, a
+stick of celery and a sprig of parsley. Place in the bottom of one of
+the wooden cookery dishes and season with salt, pepper and two
+tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Lay a good sized broiling chicken cut into
+joints on top of the vegetables, and around the chicken a half dozen
+dried mushrooms that have been soaked for fifteen minutes in cold water.
+Put in paper bag, seal and bake forty-five minutes. Remove chicken to
+hot platter, add a little tomato sauce to the vegetables and stock
+remaining in the dish, pour over the chicken and serve.
+
+=Roast Wild Duck.=--If these come from salt marshes, and have therefore
+a fishy taste, pick, dress, scald a moment in boiling salt water, then
+put in very cold water for half an hour. Drain, wipe dry and having cut
+a lemon in half rub all over inside and out with the juice and pulp.
+Then grease the outside of the duck with vegetable oil or butter, salt
+very lightly and put in greased bag. Seal and roast in a moderate oven
+for an hour. Serve with paper bag baked potatoes, tart jelly and
+pickles.
+
+=Roast Wild Duck No. 2.=--Clean and singe your duck; have a dish with
+boiling water enough to cover same, in which you put a tablespoonful of
+salt and a little carrot; parboil for only five minutes; then take out
+and dry. Have apples peeled and cut in quarters; stuff the duck with
+them. Slice bacon and wrap about four slices around it, tied with a
+string, lay in a buttered bag with a teacupful of water and a little
+salt and pepper and roast in a very hot oven for an hour. Make a gravy
+from the drippings in bag thickened slightly and seasoned with lemon
+juice, a little curry powder and any good sauce.
+
+=Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style.=--Dress the duck as usual, then stuff with
+one quart of sauer kraut mixed with one sweet apple sliced and a few
+mixed spices to season. Place two stalks of celery in one of the wooden
+cookery dishes, lay the duck on top, place in bag. Seal and bake in a
+moderate oven for an hour and a half.
+
+=Frogs' Legs.=--Scald the legs in boiling hot water for a minute or two,
+drain and wipe them dry, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in beaten
+egg, roll in cracker crumbs and put in a well-greased bag. The use of a
+wood cookery dish is recommended. Bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.
+Serve hot with points of toast and slices of lemon placed around the
+platter.
+
+=Paper Bag Roast Goose.=--For roasting, a goose should preferably be
+scarcely passed the gosling period, not more than a year old at the
+most. Its wings should be supple and tender at the pinions, its breast
+bone soft and pliable. Its feet smooth and yellow, and its fat white and
+soft. Before drawing, singe the bird, then give it a thorough bath with
+soapsuds and a soft scrubbing brush. The skin is so oily that cold water
+would make no impression, and the skin is bound to be full of dust. When
+purification is complete, rinse thoroughly in clear cold water, then dry
+and draw. Wash the inside quickly with clear water to which a little
+baking soda has been added, then rinse and wipe. The Germans are partial
+to a stuffing made of equal parts of bread crumbs, chopped apples,
+seeded raisins and boiled onions well seasoned with salt, pepper and
+butter. Americans as a rule give the preference to a potato stuffing
+made of mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, salt, pepper and a
+little butter and sage. The yolks of two eggs allowed to each pint of
+potato makes the dressing richer. Before trussing the goose, remove all
+the extra fat. This should be saved and tried out later for that
+sovereign remedy for croup,--"goose grease." It is of no value, however,
+in cooking and if left in the bird, gives a coarse, rank flavor. Season
+the goose on the inside with salt and pepper, then stuff and truss it
+into shape like a turkey. Rub over lightly with vegetable oil or butter,
+or cover the breast with several thin slices of fat salt pork. This
+keeps the skin moist. Put into a well-greased bag of goodly proportions,
+or better still, two bags, add a tablespoonful of cold water, seal and
+set in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes. Then reduce the heat about
+half and cook until done, allowing twenty-two minutes to the pound.
+Serve with apples baked in a bag, mashed turnips or squash and hot corn
+bread that can also be cooked in a bag.
+
+=Sage and Potato Stuffing.=--Should you give the preference to the
+old-fashioned potato-and-sage stuffing, such as your grandmother used to
+make, fashion it in this way: peel and boil for half an hour a half
+dozen good-sized potatoes. Mash well and season with one tablespoonful
+salt, and a teaspoonful pepper, two tablespoonfuls of white onions
+minced fine, and cooked in a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful
+of sage. Mix lightly and stuff.
+
+=Bag Roasted Young Guinea Fowl.=--It is but a few years ago
+comparatively that the excellence of the guinea fowl for the table was
+duly recognized. Most people were afraid to try them. Now the guinea is
+not only being served in all the best restaurants, but in many private
+homes as well. While the young guineas make the choicest eating, the old
+birds are not to be despised. In stuffing the guinea any approved turkey
+stuffing may be used, the accompaniments being as with turkey, giblet
+gravy and cranberry sauce. In roasting a very little water goes into the
+bag, instead thin pieces of fat, salt pork are skewered across the
+breast and around the drum sticks.
+
+=Bag Broiled Young Guinea Hen.=--For bag broiling, split down the back
+and flatten. Brush over with vegetable oil or melted butter, put in
+buttered bag and bake in gas oven or hot coal oven. Lay on a hot
+platter, season with salt and pepper, spread with a rounding
+tablespoonful butter stirred with a tablespoonful finely minced parsley,
+garnish with watercress and little moulds or spoonfuls of cranberry
+jelly and serve.
+
+=Quail.=--As for cooking quail there is no better way than to roast them
+plain, with plenty of red pepper and a little salt. For those who
+prefer, an excellent way is to serve them with bacon, which supplies the
+fat which all game birds lack.
+
+Take a half dozen quail, wipe with a damp cloth, split them and break
+the leg bones. Mix together a teaspoonful of pure olive or cotton seed
+oil, a dash of cayenne and a tiny bit of salt. Brush the birds with this
+mixture and put in well-greased bag, seal, put in oven and roast fifteen
+minutes. Arrange six slices of delicately browned toast on a hot
+platter, place the birds on the slices and baste with a mixture of good
+butter, minced parsley and the juice of a half dozen lemons. Garnish
+with slices of crisped bacon and watercress.
+
+=Quail No. 2.=--Place four quail in a wooden dish with a link of sausage
+between the birds and a strip of bacon laid on each. Put in bag, seal,
+and bake twenty-five minutes.
+
+=Stuffed Quail.=--Put into each bird a half prune or fat raisin, with a
+bit of butter and a few well seasoned bread crumbs. Wrap each bird in a
+slice of bacon, fastening with string or tooth picks and put in
+well-buttered bag. Seal and place on broiler and bake about twenty-five
+minutes, reducing the heat during the last half of the time.
+
+=Rabbit Cookery.=--In selecting a rabbit the principal thing is to find
+out the age and also how long hung. A rabbit should be ripe but not
+gamy. Unless in cold storage, they should not be kept for more than two
+or three days. The age of a rabbit may be determined by testing the paw.
+If there is a little nut there and the paw may be broken readily between
+the thumb and finger the rabbit is young. If the nut has disappeared and
+the paw resists pressure, the rabbit is too venerable for anything but a
+stew. In dressing a rabbit there is a little secret that enables the
+cook to dispose of the gamy odor that so many object to. If the thin,
+muscular membrane that extends from the flank over the intestines is
+carefully removed before cooking, the strong flavor will go with it,
+leaving the flesh delightfully sweet. The gall bladder in the liver must
+also be removed with extreme care, so as not to break it.
+
+=Barbecued Rabbit.=--Open plump young rabbits all the way down the under
+side, wash and clean thoroughly. Lay out flat in a pan of salt and water
+for an hour, with a weighted plate or saucer on top to hold under the
+water. Wipe dry and gash across the backbone in eight or ten places and
+having brushed it over with olive oil or melted butter, bag and bake in
+a hot oven forty-five minutes.
+
+Lay on a hot dish, season with salt, pepper and plenty of melted butter,
+then set in the oven for the butter to soak in. Heat in a small cup two
+tablespoonfuls vinegar with one of made mustard and brush over the
+rabbit while boiling hot. Garnish with parsley and watercress and serve
+alone or with a currant jelly sauce.
+
+=Roast Rabbit.=--Stuff, truss, dredge with flour and rub all over with
+vegetable oil, soft butter or good drippings. Season lightly with salt
+and paprika or black pepper, place in wood cookery dish in well-greased
+bag, seal and place in hot oven. Allow fifty minutes, reducing the heat
+at the end of the first twenty minutes.
+
+=Roast Rabbit No. 2.=--For an older rabbit, put into a stew kettle whole
+without dividing the pieces from the body. Pour in one quart of water,
+add a little pinch of soda when it starts to boil, and stew gently until
+tender. When tender take from the broth. Meantime mix together three
+large cupfuls dried bread crumbs, butter the size of a walnut and salt,
+pepper and sage to taste. Pour enough of the broth over this to mix
+rather soft. Stuff the rabbit, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt
+and pepper, lay in a buttered bag and bake to a rich brown in a moderate
+oven. It will not take more than a few moments. Make a good brown gravy,
+adding onion browned in butter if desired. A little onion may also be
+added to the dressing, according to preference.
+
+=Stewed Rabbit.=--Cut in eight pieces, salt and pepper and put in
+buttered wooden dish, set in a buttered bag with a finely chopped onion,
+a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter cupful stock or hot water and a
+tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth with a little cold water, then
+blended with the hot. Seal the bag and bake forty-five minutes in a hot
+oven.
+
+=Reed Birds.=--Most of the reed birds obtained in our markets are in
+reality nothing but sparrows, and those undrawn. If fed on grain, as
+they are in Chicago, they are really very nice. To bake, wrap each one
+in a thin slice of bacon or salt pork, put in buttered bag, seal and
+cook in a quick oven. Still more delectable are they cooked en surprise.
+For a half dozen covers, prepare the same number of birds, six large
+oval potatoes, six oysters, and some thin slices of bacon. Prepare the
+birds as for roasting, and tuck into each little interior an oyster,
+seasoned with salt and pepper. Then wrap each bird in a slice of bacon.
+Now, having the potatoes well scrubbed, cut off one end, and using a
+vegetable scoop, cut out a hollow in each large enough to hold a bird.
+Insert the bird, replace the end of the potato, cut off, tie in place,
+put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven. Serve as soon as done,
+removing the string. The flavor of the bird, oysters and potato makes a
+delicious combination that cannot be surpassed. Serve simply with
+butter, or if preferred, a mushroom or oyster sauce.
+
+=Squab.=--In cleaning a squab, take care not to break the little sack
+that holds the entrails. Split the birds down the back, rub with salt,
+pepper and butter or oil. Sprinkle with cracker dust and put into
+well-buttered bag. Bake fifteen minutes and serve on slices of crisp,
+hot, buttered toast with or without a thin, crispy slice of bacon.
+Garnish with cress or parsley.
+
+=Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style.)=--Get two fat squirrels, skin and
+draw. Cut the thin skin on each side of the stomach close to the ribs,
+then wipe with damp cloth. Sprinkle with black pepper but use no salt.
+Put a layer of fat bacon in a wooden dish, set in a well-greased bag and
+lay the squirrels on this bed. Cover with more thin slices of bacon pour
+in the bag a half cupful good broth, seal, and bake an hour in a
+moderate oven. Serve with grape jelly or spiced grapes.
+
+=Turkey à la Bonham.=--Pick out a young hen turkey, plump and delicate
+with small bones. Carefully remove all pin feathers and complete the
+drawing which may have been imperfectly done by the butcher. Cut off the
+neck close to the body which will make the turkey fit in the bag better,
+and make a proper appearance when placed on the table. Wash thoroughly
+inside and out and wipe dry. For the stuffing make two kinds--one for
+the body and one for the breast. It is a good plan to make these
+different so as to suit all tastes. For the body, make a chestnut
+stuffing. Boil and peel one quart of large chestnuts and mash with a
+fork. Season with pepper, salt and a little butter. For the breast, take
+a pint of bread crumbs free from crusts. Fry a half onion cut fine in a
+very little butter or vegetable oil until tender but not brown. Season
+nicely with chopped parsley and thyme, not too much. Salt and pepper and
+moisten with one beaten egg. Fill the breast and sew body and breast
+neatly, pulling the skin of the breast over the stuffing, and fastening
+in place with the wings which should be turned back to hold the skin in
+place. Rub the outside of the bird with flour mixed with salt and
+pepper, cover the breast with slices of fat salt pork tied on. Now slip
+breast down into a thoroughly greased bag or preferably two bags, one
+outside the other, the outside one also well-greased. Lay some of the
+fat from the turkey or a few strips of bacon over the bag, and put on
+the grate, seam up. Slip under the grid on the bottom of the oven a
+dripping pan half full of water to keep the bird moist, and prevent any
+fat leaking through in case the bag should burst. Be careful not to let
+the bag touch the side of the oven. Light both burners of the gas stove
+for five minutes to get the oven hot for the start. Turn out one and
+roast about an hour and three-quarters for a twelve pound bird. Lift out
+carefully, sliding the pancake turner under it to get it out easily and
+put it on hot platter.
+
+For the gravy, clean the giblets thoroughly and put to cook with the
+neck in water to cover well. Add one onion cut up and cook until tender.
+Chop fine and thicken slightly with browned flour or caramel which is
+simply sugar browned in a pan with a little boiling water.
+
+=Venison.=--For roasting, the saddle is best. As the meat is naturally
+dry, it must be well larded with strips of firm fat pork. Sprinkle with
+salt and pepper and rub over with pork drippings. Put in large
+well-greased bag, add two glasses of port or claret, seal and bake in
+moderate oven. For a roast of three pounds, allow an hour and ten
+minutes. For an eight pound roast, two hours and a half. Serve very hot
+with red or black currant jelly.
+
+=Venison Steak.=--Prepare in the regular way, place in wooden cookery
+dish and season with salt and pepper. Put in bag. Seal and cook an hour
+and twenty minutes. The wooden dishes add to the flavor of all game.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+BEEF.
+
+
+=Bullock's Heart.=--THIS is an inexpensive portion of the beef, but a
+very tasty one when properly cooked. It should always be served on very
+hot dishes, both plates and platter. If you elect to roast your heart,
+put in a basin of warm water and let soak for an hour to draw out the
+blood. Wipe dry, brush with oil or butter and tie or skewer in shape.
+Put in well-greased bag and roast about two hours. Serve with a border
+of carrots sliced and fried.
+
+=Stewed Bullock's Heart.=--Soak in a basin of warm water for an hour,
+then drain and wipe dry. Cut in halves, rub each side with flour and put
+in a frying pan with a little hot butter. As soon as browned, transfer
+to a buttered bag, adding four or five onions sliced and browned lightly
+in the same butter, together with a sprig of thyme and salt and pepper
+to season. Add a half cupful of water and cook slowly about three hours.
+
+=Filet of Beef.=--Cut from the end of a tenderloin of beef, slices about
+5/8 of an inch thick. Flatten down to about 3/8 of an inch and trim
+round. Salt lightly on both sides, dust with pepper, and lay in a little
+hot melted butter, flavored with a tiny scraping of garlic for an hour,
+turning three or four times in the meantime. Take out, put in a
+well-buttered bag, seal and cook twenty-five minutes. Serve on small
+pieces of toast that have been spread with butter and browned in a bag,
+pouring over them the juice of the meat that will have collected in the
+bag.
+
+=Hamburg Steak.=--Hamburg steak, which is too often a delusion and a
+snare as furnished by the inexperienced cook, can be so manipulated in
+paper bag cookery as to emerge a very delectable and decorative dish. In
+the first place never telephone for hamburg steak nor buy that already
+chopped and mounded ostentatiously on a platter with a garnish of
+parsley. Naturally the butcher works up his trimmings and inferior cuts
+into this comparatively inexpensive and much patronized form. Having
+purchased your cut of round steak in the slice, its lack of natural fat
+must be made up by the addition of a little beef suet (preferably from
+the kidney). A piece of suet the size of a butter nut may be allowed to
+each pound of lean meat. Next, if possible, get the butcher to chop it
+by hand rather than by the easier-to-him method of running it through
+the meat grinder. Now having your good meat at home it may be prepared
+in any one of a half dozen ways. For the Hamburg steaks, press lightly
+together into cakes about the size of a chop. If onion is desired a
+little onion juice may be added with discretion, but for most tastes
+boiled onions served separately, to accompany the steak, will be found
+preferable, or a few rings of raw onion added to a lettuce salad. The
+closely packed Hamburg steak is bound to be tough and dry. Better add a
+beaten egg to hold the chopped meat together than press the small and
+delicate particles of meat compactly.
+
+Season lightly, brush over with oil or melted butter and lay in buttered
+bag. Seal and roast for half an hour. Take up on a hot platter, season,
+add a little melted butter mixed with finely chopped parsley and serve
+hot with baked or mashed potatoes. A tomato sauce may go with the steaks
+or a brown gravy made from beef stock. A pleasant change in the
+appearance of Hamburg steak can be effected by shaping it to look like
+lamb chops. When these are bag broiled with a bit of macaroni in each
+end to simulate the chop bone they can be arranged to stand on a bed of
+parsley stacked against a pretty bowl containing tomato sauce or stewed
+tomato, a spoonful of which is to be served with each portion. The bed
+on which the chops are to rest may be mashed potato or peas, if
+preferred to the parsley.
+
+=Pot Roast.=--While this does not eliminate washing the pot, the juices
+and flavor of the beef are so conserved that instead of the usual dry
+pot-roast it is moist and tender and so well worth the trouble.
+
+Peel and slice a good sized onion and brown in a round bottomed iron pot
+with a piece of beef suet. Wash a four or five pound piece of bottom
+round, place in the pot without any water and brown quickly on all
+sides, turning it without piercing with a fork. When very brown add a
+small cup of water, push it back and let simmer for one hour, turning
+frequently. Season and cook for ten minutes longer, then place it in a
+well-greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven on a broiler, adding about
+a cupful of the liquid in which it was cooking, before sealing. Reduce
+the heat of the oven after ten minutes and cook an hour and a half to
+two hours according to size. Potatoes may be peeled and browned in the
+gravy left in the pot. When done, the liquid in the bag should be added
+to that in the pot and thickened for gravy, first skimming off the fat
+if too rich.
+
+=Rib Roast of Beef.=--Grease the roast lightly with drippings or
+vegetable oil, season with pepper, but not with salt, dust lightly with
+flour and place in well-greased bag, seal, and place in a hot oven, at
+the end of fifteen minutes, reduce the heat one-half and continue
+cooking for half an hour longer in case of a three pound roast or for a
+seven pound one, a little over an hour.
+
+=Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag.=--Get three or four pounds of beef
+from top round, asking the butcher for a high chunky piece--not a
+slab--from the tenderest, juiciest part. Have him tie it up securely and
+add a piece of suet. Well grease the bag inside. Season and flour the
+meat, place a small piece of suet on top, insert in bag, fasten with
+paper clips, and put on a broiler in a hot oven, reducing the heat after
+about five minutes. Allow fifteen minutes for each pound. It will be a
+rich brown on the outside but rare and juicy. With an exceptionally
+sharp carving knife the meat should be cut in very thin, appetizingly
+rare and tender slices.
+
+This is a most economical and nutritious roast, having no waste in bones
+and trimmings, and if cut from good beef is as delicious as a
+porterhouse roast.
+
+=Sauer Braten.=--Rub a solid piece of the round of beef with vinegar,
+dust lightly with salt and pepper and a bit of bay leaf rubbed to a
+powder. Let the meat stand over night or twelve hours. Cut several
+slashes in the meat, put in two small onions cut in quarters and two
+carrots cut in strips and the same amount of turnip. Dust a pinch of
+poultry seasoning or sweet herbs over. Lay three thin slices of salt
+pork in the well-greased paper bag, add a half cupful boiling water and
+if there is room in the bag tuck in a few more carrots or onions. Seal
+and place in a very hot oven for eight minutes, then reduce the heat at
+least half, and cook about two hours. Have a dripping pan with an inch
+of water in it, set under the oven rack so that if by any mischance the
+bag should burst, nothing would be lost. The steam from the water in
+the pan serves the same purpose as wetting the bag before filling,
+keeping it from becoming too brittle. Two bags will be found better than
+one in this case.
+
+=Beef Steak.=--Wipe the meat, trim off extra fat and brush over with oil
+or butter. Season lightly with salt and pepper, put in well-greased bag,
+seal, place on grid in very hot oven and cook from fifteen to eighteen
+minutes, according to thickness of steak. At the last, pierce a few
+holes in the top of the bag, if there is any doubt about the steak being
+sufficiently browned. Take up on hot platter and spread with parsley
+butter, pouring any gravy remaining in the pan over the meat.
+
+=Toledo Beef Steak.=--Place a top sirloin steak in a wood cookery dish,
+season with salt and pepper and place in bag. Seal and cook twenty
+minutes. Remove from the oven, open the bag and turn the steak. Spread
+over the top a little dry mustard and season with salt, pepper, two
+tablespoonfuls of drawn butter and a large tablespoonful of
+Worcestershire sauce. Place on the top grate of the oven without the
+bag, and leave ten or fifteen minutes until crisp and brown.
+
+=Stuffed Roast Beef or "Mock Duck."=--Take two flank steaks or one large
+round steak. If the former, sew together with coarse strong cotton,
+leaving one side open like a bag to be filled with the dressing. If the
+latter, place on the meat board and spread with a dressing made from
+mashed potato, well seasoned, sweet potatoes sliced and seasoned, or a
+forcemeat made from two cupfuls bread crumbs, a quarter cup butter or
+vegetable oil, in which a chopped onion has been cooked, with salt,
+pepper and cloves to season. The Germans like a half cupful of seeded
+raisins or chopped prunes added to this. Roll the meat about the
+filling and tie with strips of cotton cloth, or if you are using the
+flank steak, stuff the pocket and tie in shape. Butter the pocket or
+roll well on the outside, slip into a large well-buttered bag, add a
+tablespoonful of broth or hot water, seal, and cook in a hot oven ten
+minutes.
+
+Reduce the heat and cook forty or fifty minutes more according to weight
+of the steak. A second bag over the first is advised here when the roll
+is heavy.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+LAMB AND MUTTON.
+
+
+THE paper bag seems made expressly for lamb and mutton cookery.
+
+=Breast of Lamb With Tomato Sauce.=--Get three pounds breast of lamb,
+boil until tender, and slip out the bones. This is best done the day
+before you are to bag it. Half an hour before serving, egg, crumb,
+season and put in a well-greased bag. Seal and put in a very hot oven
+for twenty minutes. Serve with tomato sauce.
+
+=Lamb Chops.=--If you use the rib chops have them frenched, saving the
+trimmings for the stock pot. If you have the loin chops, skewer to keep
+in shape. Season with salt and pepper and brush over with oil or melted
+butter. Put in a well-greased bag, seal, place on the grid shelf in a
+hot oven, and cook for ten or fifteen minutes according to the thickness
+of the chop. When done put on a hot platter and spread with parsley or
+mint butter.
+
+=Lamb or Mutton Cutlets With Tomatoes.=--Cut the best end of the neck
+into neat cutlets, flatten and trim. Season with salt and pepper, brush
+with melted butter or oil, sprinkle with mint or chopped parsley and
+chives, and place in a buttered bag, with a tablespoonful of tomato on
+each chop. Seal and cook in hot oven twelve or fifteen minutes.
+
+=Lamb Fry.=--Wash thoroughly a pound and a half of lamb's fry and put in
+a pan of cold water. Simmer five minutes, lift out and pat dry on a soft
+cloth. Divide in nice pieces, dip in a batter made of one egg, one
+tablespoonful of milk, salt and pepper to season and flour to make of
+the consistency of cream. Arrange these pieces in a buttered bag. Seal
+and bake ten minutes. Serve with fried parsley.
+
+=Lamb's Kidney.=--Skin, split, dip in butter and place on skewer. Dust
+with salt and pepper, and place in buttered bag. Seal, place in hot oven
+and cook eight minutes.
+
+=Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider.=--Buy the leg of mutton two or three
+days before you wish to serve it. Take off the "woolly" skin that has
+the strong taste on the outside and wipe carefully with a damp cloth.
+Then rub with a mixture of spices, using half a teaspoonful each of
+cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper and nutmeg. Rub thoroughly and hang
+the mutton in a cool place for two days; then put in a well-greased bag,
+adding four onions chopped fine, a cupful seedless raisins and a cupful
+of sweet cider. Put in hot oven and bake half an hour, then reduce the
+heat, and cook an hour and a half. Serve with a hot cider sauce.
+
+=Mutton Chops and Sausage.=--Place two thick chops in a wooden dish with
+three links of sausage. Season lightly with salt and pepper, lay two
+strips of bacon over the top of the chops and seal in bag. Bake from
+twenty minutes to half an hour in a moderate oven.
+
+=Ragout of Lamb.=--Grease the bag well, and lay in a layer of sliced raw
+potatoes, seasoned lightly. Put on top of the potatoes a layer of meat,
+seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, and lay thin slices of
+onion across meat. Add one-half cup canned tomato or tomato sauce, cover
+the whole with another layer of sliced potato, seal, and bake
+thirty-five minutes. You may use a wooden cooking dish here to
+advantage.
+
+=Roast Leg of Lamb.=--Trim nicely and rub over with oil, dredge with a
+little flour and season with salt, pepper and powdered mint. Seal and
+bake two hours. Serve with mint sauce.
+
+=A Genuine Irish Stew.=--Cut two pounds of chops from the best end of a
+neck of mutton, and pare away nearly all the fat. A portion of the
+breast may be cut into squares and used, but a neck of mutton is the
+best joint for the purpose. Take as many potatoes as will amount after
+peeling to twice the weight of the meat. Slice them with eight large
+onions sliced. Put a layer of mixed potatoes and onions at the bottom of
+the buttered paper bag. Place the meat on this and season it plentifully
+with pepper and lightly with salt. Pack closely, and cover the meat with
+another layer of potato and onion. Pour in as much water or stock as
+will moisten the topmost layer, seal tightly, and let the contents cook
+gently for two and a half hours. You may use one of the large wooden
+cooking dishes here.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+PORK IN VARIED FORMS.
+
+
+=Bacon and Apples.=--CORE, but do not peel, well flavored apples and cut
+in crosswise rings about a quarter of an inch thick. Lay on thin slices
+of streaky bacon in a well-buttered bag, dust lightly with sugar, seal
+and cook eight minutes in a hot oven.
+
+=Bacon and Bananas.=--Peel firm bananas, halve them lengthwise, dust
+lightly with pepper and wrap each in a thin slice of streaky bacon. Put
+in a well-greased bag, seal and cook in a hot oven ten minutes.
+
+=Bacon and Calf's Liver.=--Pour boiling water over thin slices of calf's
+liver and let stand ten minutes. Drain, pat dry and dredge with flour,
+seasoning with pepper and a little salt. Lay slices of bacon in a
+greased bag and on top put a layer of the liver, seal and bake fifteen
+minutes. Serve on hot platter.
+
+=Baked Pork Chops.=--Season with salt and pepper, then cover each side
+of the chops with a forcemeat made moist enough to stick to them. Place
+in a well-greased bag, adding a spoonful of water, seal and bake
+twenty-five minutes.
+
+=Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes.=--Select six sweet potatoes of uniform
+size. Peel, cut in half lengthwise, brush each piece all over with
+melted butter and dredge lightly with powdered sugar. Place in a
+thoroughly buttered bag flat side down. On top of them put pork chops,
+seasoned, rolled in flour and from which the fat has been partly
+trimmed. Seal and bake in hot oven on broiler for twenty-five minutes.
+
+Pork chops cooked in this way are as tender as chicken, not hard in
+fibre as they usually are when fried.
+
+=Ham and Scalloped Potatoes.=--Peel and slice potatoes very thin. Put a
+layer in the bottom of a buttered bag and on top of the potatoes a layer
+of raw ham sliced very thin, and with the most of the fat trimmed off.
+Sprinkle with a little flour. Add little bits of butter rolled in flour
+and salt and pepper to season. Proceed in this way until the desired
+amount is obtained, having the top layer of potatoes sprinkled with
+flour and bits of butter. Turn in enough sweet milk or cream to come
+even with the top layer, and bake twenty minutes or until the potatoes
+are tender. The trimmings from the fat of the ham can be used in place
+of the butter if preferred. One of the wooden cooking dishes is
+convenient here.
+
+=Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops.=--Place two or more slices of ham in a
+wood cookery dish. Spread over it the contents of a small can of spinach
+and on top of the spinach place Frenched lamb chops. Put in greased
+paper bag, and surround by six potatoes prepared for baking. Close the
+bag, and bake 45 minutes in a moderate oven. This makes a very easy
+dinner--as the whole meal can be cooked in the oven without having to be
+watched--and the mistress of the house can be ready dressed to entertain
+guests without danger of spoiling her frock by spattering grease.
+
+=Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder.=--Have the knuckle and bone removed,
+wash, wipe dry, season with salt and pepper and fill the bone space with
+a forcemeat to which apples or stewed prunes have been added. Sew or
+skewer into shape, then lay skin side up in a large, well-greased bag.
+Add a half cup of water or cider, a few slices of onion, seal and bake
+for fifteen minutes in a very hot oven, then reduce the heat one-half
+and bake an hour.
+
+=Roast Loin of Pork.=--Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge lightly
+with flour and put into a greased bag with a half cup of water or
+tomato. Seal and bake an hour and a half. Serve with apples baked in
+another bag.
+
+=Roast Spare-Rib.=--Cut the skin of the spare-rib in checks, season with
+salt and pepper and put in a well-greased bag surrounded by apples or
+sweet potatoes cut in halves, and bake three-quarters of an hour.
+
+=Baked Sausage With Apples.=--Put links of sausage or sausage cakes in
+greased bag, and surround with well flavored apples cored and cut in
+halves but not peeled. Stand the apples flesh side down. Seal and bake
+fifteen minutes.
+
+=Baked Sausage and Potato.=--Get the best country sausage meat and mould
+into a little roll. Dust lightly with flour and put into a well-greased
+bag. Peel enough potatoes to make a wall about the meat and cut them in
+halves. They should stand with the cut side against the meat. Seal the
+bag and bake about thirty minutes until the potatoes are tender and
+brown and the sausage well done. If desired, use the drippings that come
+from the sausage as the foundation for a cream gravy to serve with the
+sausage or serve without. Sausage cooked in this way is also nice sliced
+cold and makes appetizing sandwiches for the school lunch basket.
+
+=Baked Sausage With Toast.=--Put a half dozen link sausages in a
+well-greased bag, separating them by as many slices of bread cut the
+same height. Add a half cup of good brown sauce and a few mushrooms if
+desired. Seal and bake twelve minutes. Serve with the sauce and a little
+minced parsley sprinkled over the sausage.
+
+=Baked Sausage With Tomatoes.=--Put into the greased bag sausage cakes
+or links. Chop fine one small onion, a teaspoonful of parsley and two
+tomatoes, spread over the sausage, seal and cook twenty minutes.
+
+=Tenderloin of Pork.=--Get fat, large tenderloins and have them split,
+but leave connected down the side. Fill with a good forcemeat or potato
+dressing well seasoned, skewer the edges together or tie with string,
+put in well-greased bag adding a tablespoonful of water and bake twenty
+minutes. Serve with curried apples, made in this way and baked in
+another bag at the same time. Peel and core the apples and fill the
+cavities with a mixture of curry powder, grated cheese and fine
+breadcrumbs. For eight apples use four tablespoonfuls and a half of
+curry powder and eight of the bread crumbs. Moisten the mixture with
+milk. Bag, seal and bake. These apples are nice served cold with cold
+roast pork.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+VEAL.
+
+
+=Baked Calf's Liver.=--ONE calf's liver washed and dried, slashed and
+scored inside. Have bread dressing ready well seasoned with onions.
+Stuff the liver with this and tie with cord. Skewer to liver with
+toothpicks several pieces of bacon, put a little hot water in the bag
+and bake at least one hour in a hot oven. Send to table hot, with a
+parsley garnish.
+
+=Calves' Brains in Tempting But Inexpensive Ways.=--Carefully prepared
+few can tell the difference between sweetbreads and calves' brains
+though the housewife will appreciate the fact that sweetbreads cost
+about four times as much as the brains. In whichever way one elects to
+cook the brains, the preliminary treatment is the same. Parboil fifteen
+minutes in water, to which has been added a teaspoonful of salt and a
+tablespoonful of vinegar. After this, let them lie in cold water a few
+moments, then remove all membranes and dark streaks. They are now ready
+to be cooked in any way preferred.
+
+=Breaded Brains.=--Separate the lobes of a pair of brains that have been
+parboiled as directed. Then with a sharp knife split each division. Beat
+the yolk of an egg lightly, thin slightly with cold water or milk, dip
+the brains in this, then into finely rolled crumbs. Put in a buttered
+bag and bake twenty minutes. Serve on a hot dish with a garnish of
+quarters of lemon that have been rolled in finely minced parsley.
+
+=Sweetbreads.=--The initial treatment of sweetbreads, when they come
+from the market, is always the same. Parboil at once in salted water,
+from fifteen to thirty minutes, never allowing them to boil. Then plunge
+into ice water and lemon juice or vinegar (a tablespoonful to a quart of
+water) and leave for an hour to blanch and become firm. After
+parboiling, the little strings and membranes can be very readily
+removed. Now they are ready for the finishing culinary touch, in anyway
+the cook may elect.
+
+=Baked Sweetbreads.=--Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in crumbs then
+beaten egg to which a spoonful of milk has been added, then in crumbs
+again, the last time having the crumbs well-buttered. Put in greased bag
+and bake half an hour in a moderately hot oven. Serve on toast with the
+brown gravy poured over the slices.
+
+=Sweetbreads With Bacon.=--Slice sweetbreads, roll in seasoned crumbs,
+then in egg and again in crumbs. Put on a skewer, alternating with
+slices of bacon cut thin, put in a greased bag, and bake twenty minutes
+in medium oven.
+
+=Larded Sweetbreads.=--Lard the boiled sweetbreads with strips of bacon
+and lemon peel, having the bacon in the centre and peel on the sides.
+Lay in paper bag with brown gravy to half cover, and let them bake for
+an hour, or until brown. Arrange on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with a
+little flour and season with catsup, lemon juice and spices to taste.
+Pour over the sweetbreads and serve with peas.
+
+=Sweetbreads Straight.=--Parboil the sweetbreads, take off the skins,
+dust each sweetbread with salt and pepper very lightly and pour over
+each a tablespoonful of cream. Slip the sweetbreads into a thickly
+greased bag and cook in a moderate oven slowly for forty minutes. Serve
+on a hot dish with a border of asparagus or green peas.
+
+=Vealettes.=--Purchase veal cuts from the leg in slices as large as
+one's hand and about half an inch thick. On each slice lay a large
+tablespoonful of dressing made from seasoned bread crumbs, a beaten egg
+and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Roll up the slices, pinning with
+toothpicks to keep the dressing in. Put in a well-greased bag, seal and
+bake about three-quarters of an hour. When done, thicken the gravy, pour
+over the veal and serve on a hot platter.
+
+A variation in vealettes is made by getting from the butcher two slices
+of veal and a slice of ham the same size. Put together like a sandwich
+with the ham in the center and skewer together. Trim the edges evenly
+and bake in a bag. When the veal is done take up on a hot platter,
+thicken the drippings remaining in the bag, adding enough hot water to
+make a good consistency.
+
+=Veal Loaf.=--Mince three pounds raw lean veal and a quarter pound of
+fine fat pork, salt or fresh. Season with half an onion, grated fine, a
+tablespoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of pepper, a half teaspoonful
+powdered thyme, quarter of a spoonful sweet marjoram, the same amount
+Summer savory and a saltspoonful celery salt. Next mix in two-thirds of
+a cup of rolled cracker crumbs, a scant cupful veal gravy or hot milk,
+the yolk of one egg and the whites of two beaten together until light.
+Mix thoroughly and form into a compact loaf. Roll it until coated in
+yolks of the two eggs left over, then in sifted cracker or bread crumbs,
+and put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven. Roast two hours and
+serve cold, cut in very thin slices.
+
+=Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised.=--Buy a shoulder of veal and ask
+the butcher to bone it and send the bones with the meat. Cover the bones
+with cold water and when it comes to a boil, skim, then add a little
+onion and carrot, a few seasoning herbs and any spices desired. Simmer
+gently for an hour or so until you have a pint of stock. To make the
+stuffing, take a stale loaf, cut off the crust and soak in a little cold
+water until soft. Rub the crumb of the loaf as fine as possible in the
+hands, then add to the soaked and softened crust. Chop a half cupful of
+suet fine, put into a frying pan a tablespoonful of the suet, and when
+hot add an onion chopped fine. Cook until brown, then add to the bread
+with regular poultry seasoning or else salt, pepper and a bit of thyme.
+Mix well and stuff the cavity in the shoulder, then pull the flaps of
+the meat over and sew up. Put the rest of the suet in the frying pan,
+and having dusted the meat with flour, salt, pepper and a sprinkling of
+sugar, brown on all sides in the fat. Into the bottom of the bag put a
+layer of thin sliced onion and carrot, a bit of bay leaf and sprigs of
+parsley, and on this lay the meat. Add two or three cloves, pour the hot
+stock around it, cover closely and braise in a hot oven for two and a
+half hours.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
+
+
+=Bignon's Sauce.=--THIS is a delightful appetizer with meats cold or
+hot, or with fish. Chop fine equal parts, say one tablespoonful of each,
+capers, parsley, chives, gherkins, tarragon and green Chili peppers. Mix
+together; season with salt, pepper and cayenne and cover with tarragon
+vinegar; let it stand an hour and add three tablespoonfuls of oil and a
+teaspoonful of French mustard.
+
+=Bread Sauce.=--Mince an onion and boil in milk until soft. Then strain
+the milk over one cupful of grated bread crumbs and stand aside, closely
+covered, for an hour. Add the minced onion, two tablespoonfuls of
+butter, pepper, salt and a bit of mace to season. Set over the fire,
+boil up and serve with roasted or broiled birds.
+
+=Brown Sauce.=--The formula for this is the same as for the white sauce,
+except that the butter and fat are browned before the flour is added, or
+browned flour is used for thickening. Use a little more flour
+proportionately, in a brown sauce, as the browning destroys, in a
+measure, the thickening qualities of the flour. Reduce with brown stock
+or water.
+
+With this as foundation, any number of palatable sauces can be invented
+which will be found useful in disposing of many odds and ends of
+vegetables, cold meats and left-over fish, that might otherwise "go
+begging."
+
+=Celery Sauce.=--Prepare a smooth, white sauce by blending over the fire
+two tablespoonfuls each butter, and flour, then reducing with a pint of
+warm milk. Add a dozen stalks of celery that have been minced fine and
+cooked tender in just enough water to cover. Cook two minutes, season
+with salt and pepper and serve with boiled fowl.
+
+=Currant Jelly Sauce.=--This makes a delicious addition to roast venison
+or mutton. Cook together in a saucepan one tablespoonful butter and a
+teaspoonful minced onion. When the onion is lightly colored, (not
+blackened) add a teaspoonful of flour and stir until smooth. Add
+gradually a half cupful stock, stirring all the time, and when it boils
+up add a bit of bay leaf, a teaspoonful vinegar, a half teaspoonful
+salt, and eighth teaspoonful pepper, one clove, and a tablespoonful of
+currant jelly. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve hot.
+
+=Curry Sauce.=--This is nice with any delicate meat or fish or can be
+poured over boiled rice for a side dish. Put two tablespoonfuls butter
+in a saucepan, then stir into it two tablespoonfuls flour. Add a scant
+tablespoonful curry powder and a teaspoonful onion juice, and cook a
+moment or two, but do not allow them to brown. Stir in gradually one
+cupful milk and cook until smooth and thickened. Add a cup of cream,
+season with salt and just before serving, add, if you like, a hard
+boiled egg chopped fine.
+
+=Hollandaise Sauce.=--Put one-half cup of butter into a bowl of cold
+water and wash it to take out the salt. Divide it into three parts and
+put one-third into the top of a double boiler with the yolks of two
+eggs and a tablespoon of lemon juice. Stir and cook until the butter
+melts, add another piece of butter and continue stirring. As the sauce
+thickens stir in the last piece, add one-third cup of boiling water, a
+speck of cayenne and a saltspoon of salt and cook one minute.
+
+=Horseradish Sauce.=--Put a saucepan over the fire with a tablespoonful
+of butter and a half tablespoonful of flour. Stir and cook two minutes,
+then add a half cupful of strained soup stock and a half cupful of milk,
+six whole peppers, a bit of bay leaf and an even half teaspoonful of
+salt. Cook five minutes, remove bay leaf and peppers, and add three
+tablespoonfuls grated horseradish. Cook two minutes and serve.
+
+=Maitre d'Hotel Butter.=--To make it, rub a quarter cupful of butter to
+a cream, add a half teaspoonful of salt, a good dash of pepper, white or
+paprika, a tablespoonful of fine chopped parsley and a tablespoonful of
+lemon juice. If you are partial to nutmeg, a grating of that is
+sometimes added.
+
+=Mexican Sauce.=--Take four large tomatoes or the equivalent in canned,
+three green peppers and one onion. Chop pepper and onion in a wooden
+bowl, add the tomato and salt and pepper to season. To one-half cupful
+of vinegar, add the drippings from four slices fried bacon, pour over
+the chopped vegetables and serve in individual salad dishes as an
+accompaniment to meats.
+
+=Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb.=--Put one cup of vinegar and one rounding
+tablespoon of sugar together and stir in one-quarter cup of finely
+minced mint. Let stand fifteen minutes before it is served.
+
+=French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style.=--Work together three
+tablespoonfuls mustard and one cupful sugar, then beat in one egg until
+smooth. Add one cupful of vinegar a little at a time, set over the fire
+and cook three or four minutes stirring constantly. When cold add one
+tablespoonful olive oil beating all well together.
+
+=An Excellent Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat.=--Two teaspoonfuls flour, one
+teaspoonful sugar, one teaspoonful mustard, a little pepper and salt.
+Mash all together, add boiling water, to make thick paste. Beat
+constantly till lumps are all out. Add sufficient vinegar to make it
+thinner. Be sure the water is boiling.
+
+=Onion Sauce.=--Prepare a smooth white sauce by blending over the fire
+two tablespoonfuls of butter and a tablespoonful and a half of flour.
+When bubbly, turn in two cupfuls of hot milk, and stir until smooth and
+thickened. Add two large boiled onions minced fine, cook a moment,
+season with salt and pepper and serve with poultry or boiled veal.
+
+=Spanish Sauce.=--For veal, lamb or mutton chops, broiled or fried fish,
+chicken, etc. One large onion, one full section of garlic, one-half
+large sweet, green or red pepper. Put in two tablespoonfuls of butter,
+one teaspoonful of olive or vegetable oil. When effervescing stops add a
+half teaspoonful of salt, and the onion, garlic and green pepper which
+has been finely grated. When this begins to brown, giving it time to
+cook rather well, add four good sized tomatoes, skinned and chopped, or
+the thick part of one can of tomatoes. Let all simmer for fifteen to
+twenty minutes with occasional stirring to prevent burning. Add salt and
+pepper, paprika, or cayenne to taste, two tablespoonfuls tomato ketchup
+and one dessertspoonful Worcestershire Sauce, before taking off fire.
+It should be the consistency of good cream. If too thin, cook down, or
+if too thick add a sufficient amount of _boiling_ water. Use red pepper
+as a seasoning.
+
+=Thick Tomato Sauce.=--Blend over the fire two tablespoonfuls of melted
+butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour; add a little at a time, and
+stirring all the while, one large cupful of tomato juice. Stir until the
+mixture thickens; then season to taste with sugar, salt and cayenne
+pepper. The seasoning may sometimes be varied by adding a little chopped
+parsley or chopped onion or even both. For a thinner tomato sauce--use
+but one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour to each cupful of
+liquor.
+
+=Sauce Tartare.=--Make first a good mayonnaise, then finish with the
+addition of a tablespoonful each of chopped gherkins, olives, parsley
+and capers; mix together in a bowl a half teaspoonful of salt, a half
+teaspoonful mustard, a half teaspoonful of powdered sugar and a half
+saltspoonful of pepper; add the yolks of two raw eggs that have been in
+the ice box long enough to be as cold as possible and beat lightly;
+measure out a half cupful of olive oil and have this cold also; add the
+oil slowly at first, then as it begins to thicken it can be poured in
+more rapidly. When quite thick, add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
+then the chopped ingredients. This will keep several weeks. Tarragon
+vinegar may be used in place of the cider vinegar if preferred.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+RECOOKED DISHES.
+
+
+=Beef Steak Left Overs.=--MINCE fine and for each cup of meat add a
+tablespoonful of chopped ham and half as much bread crumbs as you have
+meat. Moisten the crumbs with a little hot milk and add to the meat.
+Season highly with salt, pepper and chopped parsley or substitute a
+little sage or onion juice for the parsley. Beat one egg light and add
+to the other ingredients. Make into a brick shaped loaf, grease over
+with warmed butter or oil, put in paper bag also greased. Seal and bake
+twenty-five minutes. Dish on a hot platter, pour tomato sauce about it
+or serve with horse radish sauce.
+
+=Chicken Croquettes.=--To one solid cupful of meat chopped as fine as
+powder, add one half teaspoonful of salt, and a half saltspoonful of
+white pepper. Make a pint of thick cream sauce, allowing to two level
+tablespoonfuls of butter, two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch
+cooked together diluted with a pint of hot milk or cream and stirred and
+cooked until smooth and thick. Season with salt and pepper and add
+enough to the chicken to make stiff enough to handle when cold. When
+cold shape into balls, roll in fine, dry bread crumbs and beaten egg
+diluted with a little water, then crumb again and place in well-greased
+bag. Seal and cook ten minutes.
+
+=Mock Fried Oysters.=--To two cupfuls cold boiled rice, add one tin of
+sardines, from which all bone and skin have been removed. Roll this
+coarse paste into flat, circular cakes, put into well-greased bag and
+bake fifteen minutes in moderate oven.
+
+=Turkey Croquettes.=--Chop the fragments of turkey or other left over
+meats very fine, adding for seasoning a small portion of bologna, ham or
+tongue together with a bit of fine minced onion or onion juice, salt,
+pepper and parsley. Make a thick cream sauce, allowing for a pint of the
+chopped and seasoned meat the following portions:
+
+Put into a saucepan a heaping tablespoonful butter and two level
+tablespoonfuls of flour. As soon as blended, pour in a cupful of hot
+milk stirring until thick and smooth. Salt to taste. Add the meat and
+beat until well mixed.
+
+Season more highly if desired, then set away in a cold place until cold
+and stiffened. Form into cones. Dip in beaten egg, roll in fine crumbs
+and place in a cold place again until quite dry. Bake in well-greased
+bag and stick a little sprig of parsley in the end of each cone before
+serving.
+
+=Edinboro Hot Pot.=--You will need for this one pound of cold meat
+sliced and browned in sweet drippings, one large onion sliced and
+browned in the same drippings, a half tin of tomatoes, a half dozen cold
+boiled or baked potatoes sliced and a little good stock made from the
+bones and seasoning. Put a layer of meat in the well-greased bag or in
+one of the oval wood cookery dishes made specially for the purpose. On
+top of the meat put some of the onions, tomatoes and potatoes. Season
+with salt, pepper and butter or vegetable shortening and pour over all
+about a cupful of good stock. Seal the bag and bake for a half hour in
+a moderate oven.
+
+=Individual Meat Pies.=--Chop fine any cold cooked meat. Season highly
+with mustard, pepper sauce and catsup, salt and pepper; add one egg;
+moisten with liquor of oysters. Make a rich biscuit crust, roll out to a
+quarter of an inch thickness, and cut in squares. Fill half of each
+square with one tablespoonful of the prepared meat. Fold remaining half
+of square over, first moistening edges with oyster liquor, and press
+closely together. Put in buttered bag and bake twenty minutes in hot
+oven, reducing the heat after the first ten minutes.
+
+=English Pasties.=--Cut any cold meat up into small pieces, add a cupful
+of sliced potatoes, raw, and an onion chopped fine, some parsley and
+pepper and salt to taste. Stew this until the potato is done and thicken
+with flour rubbed in butter. Make a crust of flour and salt, using
+chopped suet and butter in equal quantities for shortening and a
+teaspoonful of baking powder to each quart of flour. Roll the crust out
+thin and cut into large discs--the cover of a two quart pail makes a
+good pastie cutter. Put two large spoonfuls of the meat mixture on the
+crust and roll over, pinching edges together like a fruit turnover. Bag
+and bake one-half hour in a hot oven. If there is any of the meat gravy
+left serve it with the pasties.
+
+=Olla Podrida Pie.=--Grease one of the oval wood dishes and line with a
+crust about a quarter of an inch thick. Fill with meat scraps of any
+sort cut small and heated together in a little stock or gravy, well
+seasoned with tomato and powdered herbs. Small leftovers of any
+vegetable, peas, corn or cauliflower may also be minced and added with
+good effect. Cover with strips of good paste lattice fashion, slip into
+a well-greased bag and cook half an hour in a moderate oven.
+
+=Oyster Bundles.=--Cut generous, uniform slices of cold turkey or veal,
+lay a slice of bacon on each, then an oyster on each slice of the bacon.
+Roll the three together, fasten with tooth picks and put in buttered
+bag. Bake fifteen minutes and serve with potatoes baked in another bag.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+CHEESE AND EGG DISHES.
+
+
+=Cheese Ball With Tomato Sauce.=--MIX together two cupfuls grated
+cheese, a cupful of fine bread crumbs, a quarter teaspoonful of salt and
+a few grains of cayenne. Then add two eggs beaten stiff, shape in small
+balls, roll in crushed cracker crumbs and lay in well-buttered bag. Bake
+ten minutes and serve on triangles of buttered toast with tomato sauce.
+
+=Cheese Fritters to Serve With the Salad Course.=--Beat two eggs, season
+with salt, pepper and a suspicion of mustard and then lay in this
+seasoned egg as many thin slices of American cheese as it will hold.
+Have ready tart apples cored and sliced crosswise without peeling. Put a
+slice of cheese between two rounds of apple, sandwich fashion, dip the
+sandwiches in the egg, lay in a well-greased paper bag seal and cook ten
+minutes. Serve very hot.
+
+=Pepper Cheese.=--Take green peppers, scorch slightly in hot oven or
+over the coals, then remove the outer skin with a sharp knife. Split the
+peppers, remove the seeds, and put in their place a small roll of cream
+cheese. Roll up again, skewer together with a wooden tooth-pick, dip in
+beaten egg and cracker crumbs and put in well-buttered bag. Seal and
+bake fifteen minutes in hot oven.
+
+=Cheese Ramekins.=--Roll out a sheet of pie crust and sprinkle liberally
+with grated cheese. Roll up and roll out again. Sprinkle on more cheese
+and repeat the rolling. Stamp out with a biscuit cutter (the pastry
+should be about a quarter of an inch thick), put in buttered bag and
+bake in a hot oven. When done, dip both sides in melted butter and serve
+hot.
+
+=Cheese and Eggs.=--Butter the bottom of a baking dish and cover with
+slices of rich cheese. Break several whole eggs over the cheese, taking
+care that the whites and yolks do not become separated. Season with salt
+and pepper, and pour over all a rich cream, a half tablespoonful to each
+egg.
+
+=Baked Eggs.=--Butter little casseroles or gem pans, and drop an egg in
+each. Season with salt and pepper and put a little cream on the top of
+each egg. Put in bag, seal and bake five minutes. These are exceedingly
+delicate, as the steam being retained they bake quickly, yet do not
+become hard. Set each on a plate for serving.
+
+=Baked Eggs With Cheese.=--Break into a buttered pan the number of eggs
+required. Pour over each one tablespoon of rich, sweet cream, sprinkle
+over all a thin layer of grated cheese and a few fine rolled crumbs.
+Season with salt and pepper, put in bag, seal, and bake about six
+minutes.
+
+=A Paper Bag Omelette.=--Beat two eggs for about five minutes. Add a
+dash of salt and pepper and a heaping teaspoonful of flour. Beat again
+until flour is well mixed in and add a small cupful of milk. Put a
+tablespoonful of minced breakfast bacon into a pie tin, when quite hot
+pour egg mixture over it. Put in paper bag, seal, and bake a delicate
+brown in a quick oven. Cut in squares and serve immediately.
+
+=Cheese Omelette.=--A savory of cheese omelette may be made from one egg
+if the following recipe is used. Soak one small cupful grated bread
+crumbs in two cupfuls of sweet milk into which a pinch of soda has been
+dissolved. Beat one egg very light and add to the softened bread. Stir
+in one teaspoonful of melted butter and a dash of cayenne. Beat the
+whole well, add a small cupful grated cheese and a teaspoonful of salt.
+Beat again, turn into a buttered bag, bake twenty minutes and serve at
+once.
+
+=Swiss Eggs.=--For Swiss eggs spread the bottom of a bag with two ounces
+of fine American cheese. Place four eggs on the cheese, taking care that
+the yolks are not broken. Season with pepper and salt. Pour around the
+eggs two tablespoonfuls of rich cream and cover the top with grated
+cheese. Put in bag, seal and bake for ten minutes. Garnish with parsley
+and serve with fingers of crisp toast.
+
+=Eggs in Tomato Cups.=--Cut fresh tomatoes in half and scoop out part of
+the interior. Fry the tomato cups until half done. Then break into each
+of them an egg. Put then in a buttered bag, seal and cook ten minutes.
+The tops of the eggs may be sprinkled with minced ham or grated cheese,
+or they may be served plain. Season and serve hot.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+VEGETABLES.
+
+
+WHILE no claim is made that all vegetables are improved through paper
+bag cookery, experiments prove that quite a number can be successfully
+cooked by the paper bag process. Vegetables of strong flavor as a rule
+are best cooked in a large quantity of water and are not recommended for
+paper bag cookery; only the more delicate vegetables that need to have
+their flavors conserved. Dried peas, lentils and beans are excellent
+cooked in paper bags but require a longer preliminary soaking than is
+usual with other methods of cooking.
+
+=Asparagus.=--Trim and scrape as for boiling; wash very clean. Tie in
+bundles and put into a buttered bag with a little salt and a quarter
+cupful of water. Seal and cook from thirty-five to forty minutes in a
+hot oven.
+
+=Asparagus With Cheese.=--Boil two bunches of asparagus twelve minutes
+in salted water. Drain, but save the water. Put the asparagus in a
+buttered bag or in one of the oval wooden dishes, scattering grated
+Swiss or Parmesan cheese between the layers. Turn over all a cup of the
+water in which the asparagus was boiled, sprinkle the top of the scallop
+with a little cheese and a few buttered bread crumbs. Seal the bag and
+cook fifteen minutes in a moderate oven.
+
+=Lima Beans.=--Add to a quart of shelled Lima beans three tablespoonfuls
+of butter or vegetable oil, a quarter pound of diced bacon or ham, a
+little minced parsley or other seasoning herbs, and a teaspoonful of
+flour. Put in a greased bag with a cupful of water, seal and cook an
+hour in a moderate oven.
+
+=String Beans, Oriental Style.=--String the beans, cut in two
+lengthwise, then break in inch pieces. To every pint of beans, which
+should be young and tender, allow one cupful boiling water, two
+tablespoonfuls vegetable oil, one small onion sliced, and a half cupful
+tomato. Salt and pepper to taste. Put all in greased paper bag and cook
+forty-five minutes. A wooden cookery dish can be employed to advantage.
+
+=Boston Baked Bean Cakes.=--These are made of left-over baked beans.
+Heat with a little water to moisten, rub through a colander, season with
+salt, pepper and mustard. Put a tablespoonful of pork drippings or
+butter in a frying pan, and cook in it, when hot, a tablespoonful of
+minced onion, taking care not to let it blacken. Add to the beans, make
+into cakes and lay in well-greased bag. Cook twenty minutes and serve
+with tomato sauce.
+
+=Bean Croquettes.=--Soak one pint white pea beans or the little brown
+Mexican frijoles over night in cold water. In the morning cook until
+soft in water to which a saltspoonful of soda has been added, changing
+the water after it first comes to a boil. Rub through a colander, then
+add to the pulp one cup grated bread crumbs, one tablespoonful minced
+parsley, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, two eggs well beaten, one
+small onion grated and salt and pepper to season. Mix thoroughly, shape
+into cylinders, dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust and put in
+buttered bag. Seal and cook ten minutes in hot oven.
+
+=German Cabbage.=--Take two small hard heads of red cabbage and cut in
+slices half an inch thick, discarding the hard stalk and veins. Put onto
+a greased wooden cookery bowl two rounding tablespoonfuls of melted
+butter or vegetable oil, then add the cabbage, sprinkle with a level
+teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and one onion
+chopped fine. Put in bag, seal, and put in oven. Bake one hour with only
+one burner on after the first ten minutes.
+
+=Cabbage Hot Slaw.=--Chop a small hard head of cabbage fine and salt it
+lightly. Let stand half an hour then put in wooden bowl with two
+tablespoonfuls of butter. Put in bag, seal, and cook slowly in the oven
+for twenty minutes. No water is necessary, as the salt will draw out the
+juices of the cabbage so it will have moisture enough. At the end of
+twenty minutes take up with a hot dish, add a teaspoonful of flour that
+has been stirred in a little cold water, then cooked until thick with a
+half cupful of cream. Lastly, add one tablespoonful of pure vinegar and
+serve at once.
+
+=Carrots.=--Wash and scrape a half dozen tender carrots. Slice thin and
+season with salt, pepper and a good tablespoonful of butter. Add a half
+cupful good stock, put in a well-greased bag, seal and cook thirty-five
+minutes.
+
+=Carrot Saute.=--Scrape and cook young carrots in boiling salted water
+until tender. Cut in halves lengthwise, roll in fine cracker crumbs,
+then in egg and cracker again, and put in well-greased bag. Bake fifteen
+minutes, sprinkle with fine chopped parsley and serve very hot.
+
+=Stuffed Eggplant.=--Select purple fruit and of small size. Halve them,
+sprinkle them with salt, turn them cut side down on a fine sieve, put a
+heavy plate on them and let them drain for an hour. Wipe dry, take from
+each a tablespoonful of the center, chop it fine and for each
+tablespoonful allow the same amount of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of
+chopped onions, olives and vegetable oil, with a little salt and a
+dusting of paprika. Mound this dressing on each half, arrange the halves
+in a buttered bag, pour in water to the depth of an inch, add a generous
+piece of butter, salt and pepper, and place the bag in a hot oven;
+twenty minutes should be sufficiently long to cook the eggplant
+thoroughly.
+
+=Lentil Cutlets.=--Soak one cupful dried lentils all night with a cupful
+dried lima beans. In the morning drain, add two quarts of water, a stalk
+of celery and half an onion sliced. Cook until soft, remove the
+seasonings and rub through a puree sieve. Add one cupful stale bread
+crumbs, one beaten egg, the juice of a half lemon and seasonings to
+taste. Melt a heaping tablespoonful of butter in a small saucepan, add
+to it a tablespoonful flour and pour on, when blended, a third of a cup
+of milk. Let the mixture cook until thick and smooth, then add to the
+lentil mixture and set aside to cool. Shape into small cutlets, dip in
+beaten egg, then in fine cracker crumb, put in a well-buttered bag and
+bake twenty minutes. Serve with a tomato sauce.
+
+=Mushrooms.=--Choose fine fat mushrooms, cut the stem close, peel and
+wipe delicately with a damp cloth. Sprinkle lightly with salt and lay in
+a well-greased bag together with a big tablespoonful of butter rolled in
+flour and a half cupful of rich cream. Seal and cook twelve minutes in a
+hot oven.
+
+=Baked Onions.=--Parboil for fifteen minutes Bermuda or Spanish onions,
+chill in cold water, then if very large cut in halves, otherwise, cut a
+little wedge out of the hearts and fill the cavity with butter or
+vegetable oil. Put in the well-greased bag, adding a little water and
+more butter or oil, seal and cook twenty minutes.
+
+=Stuffed Baked Onions.=--The next time you have a roast leg of lamb or
+mutton, try baked onions prepared in this way as an accompaniment: Take
+large onions, preferably Spanish or Bermudas, peel, cut a slice from the
+top of each, and with a small spoon scoop out about half the pulp. Put
+this in a dish, mix with it an equal quantity of bread crumbs, well
+flavored with chopped parsley, sweet marjoram, salt and pepper. Moisten
+the whole lightly with cream and a little melted butter; mix well, fill
+the onion cavities with the stuffing, crown with a slice of bacon for a
+cover, put in a bag and bake one hour in a moderate oven.
+
+=Onions With Cheese.=--Skin large Spanish onions and boil until quite
+soft. Press through a sieve and put into a well-buttered wooden baking
+dish. Season with salt, pepper and plenty of butter, add a little stock
+or milk, grate a little cheese over them, put in bag and bake to a
+golden brown.
+
+=Parsnips.=--Scrape and parboil some parsnips. Cut in two lengthwise.
+Season with pepper and salt, roll in melted butter, dripping or olive
+oil. Flour again and place in a well-greased paper bag. Seal up and bake
+in a hot oven on a wire rack for half an hour. They should be a golden
+brown.
+
+=Green Peas.=--Shell the peas, put into a well-buttered bag with a
+little salt to season, a little sprig of green mint and a half cupful of
+water. Seal and cook twenty-five minutes. Slit open the bag, pour its
+contents into a hot dish, season well with butter and serve.
+
+=Stuffed Peppers.=--In preparing peppers for stuffing, select those of
+uniform size, wash and plunge in boiling water for about ten minutes;
+then drop into cold water to keep them green; cut off the stem ends and
+scoop out the seeds and inside of the peppers; fill with any of the
+following stuffings or a combination of your own devising.
+
+Stuffing No. 1. Wash half a cup of rice; cover with boiling water and
+cook rapidly for ten minutes; then turn into a sieve to drain. Peel
+three large tomatoes, removing the seeds and cutting the pulp in small
+pieces. When fresh tomatoes are out of season, their equivalent in
+canned may be used. Mix the rice and tomatoes together; add two
+tablespoonfuls of olive oil or melted butter and season with salt. Fill
+the drained peppers with the mixture, sprinkling a few buttered crumbs
+over the top and replace the covers. Oil the peppers on the outside, and
+set in a buttered bag. Turn enough stock into the bag to come half way
+up the sides of the peppers (if you have no stock use hot water in which
+a tablespoonful of kitchen bouquet has been dissolved and several slices
+of onion and carrot added), and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters
+of an hour. Rice that has been left over from dinner may be used,
+leaving the tomatoes out and seasoning with chopped celery, parsley,
+salt and pepper. When done, dish on a hot platter and pour a rich brown
+sauce over them, scattering a little minced parsley over the top. A
+wooden cookery dish is advised here.
+
+Stuffing No. 2. For eight good sized peppers take a pint of chopped
+meat, veal or chicken, or veal mixed with sausage, a cupful of soft
+bread crumbs and a cup of stock, gravy or water in which a spoonful of
+beef extract has been dissolved. Season with an even teaspoonful each
+of salt and pepper and half teaspoonful each summer savory, thyme and
+sage. Mix well, fill the peppers, sprinkle fine buttered bread crumbs
+over them at the end where the stuffing is exposed, put in a buttered
+bag and bake until well browned. This will take about a quarter of an
+hour. Serve with chicken or roast beef, and with or without a sauce.
+
+=Peppers With Creamed Fish.=--Parboil the peppers ten minutes, then fill
+with creamed fish of any kind, which may be seasoned with a
+tablespoonful of sherry. Then sprinkle with a layer of fine crumbs, dot
+with butter, bag, and brown lightly in a quick oven. Creamed carrots,
+cauliflower, sprouts, and many other vegetables may be baked in the
+pepper cups and served either as a vegetable or an entree. Filled with
+potatoes au gratin and browned they are a delicious accompaniment for
+chops and steaks.
+
+=Baked Irish Potatoes.=--Scrub thoroughly and rinse as many good sized
+potatoes as will be required. Make a few slits in them but do not peel.
+Place in the paper bag with a tablespoonful of water, close tightly and
+cook from thirty-five to fifty minutes, according to size.
+
+=Baked Potatoes Without Their Coats or Jackets.=--Select as many
+potatoes of the same size as desired. Peel and let them stand in salted,
+cold water for ten minutes. Then drain without drying and place in a
+greased bag,--bacon fat is good for these potatoes--and cook in a hot
+oven, without disturbing, for forty-five minutes if small, one hour, if
+large. They will have a crisp, brown coat, every part of which can be
+eaten.
+
+=Potatoes en Surprise.=--Choose potatoes of smooth shape, not too large
+and of even size. Scrape out from the top of each a space large enough
+to hold the yolk of an egg. Salt and pepper the nest, drop in a tiny bit
+of butter, then the egg yolk, follow with a thin slice of bacon just
+large enough to cover the egg and set in greased paper bag. If necessary
+to keep them upright cut a thin slice from the bottom of each potato,
+add a spoonful of cold water, seal, set in a hot oven and cook for
+thirty minutes.
+
+=Potatoes Farci.=--A new and very delicious way of serving stuffed
+potatoes is as follows: Wash large potatoes and bake in bag until nearly
+done; take from the oven and nearly cut off one end, leaving the skin
+for a hinge and a bit of potato for a lid. Pull out the undone heart
+with a fork and in its place lay shavings of smoked bacon, peppered and
+tightly rolled after having been laid for an instant on a hot frying
+pan; close the potato and set in the oven to finish cooking.
+
+=Sauer Kraut.=--Put enough to serve six people in one of the largest
+size wood cookery dishes, salt and season to taste, add a half cupful of
+water, put in bag, seal, and bake one hour in moderate oven.
+
+=Waldorf Sauer Kraut.=--Soak the sauer kraut in cold water until just
+palatably salt. Put into greased paper bag on a wooden cookery dish with
+a little bacon, pickled pork or sausage, add a half cupful of hot water
+and cook about twenty minutes. Drain, put in a hot dish with or without
+the meat as desired and serve. When boiled sauer kraut is cold it may be
+chopped and reheated in a buttered bag with butter, gravy or a white
+sauce.
+
+=Sweet Potatoes and Bacon.=--Peel boiled sweet potatoes, fasten a slice
+of bacon around each, using a wooden tooth pick to hold in place. Put in
+buttered bag with a spoonful of water, and bake ten minutes.
+
+=Sweet Potato Straws.=--Cut potatoes in slices lengthwise, peel, then
+cut into straws. Dip in bacon fat or melted butter, put in buttered bag,
+seal, and cook fifteen minutes. Take out on soft paper to absorb any
+grease, dust lightly with salt and serve.
+
+=Sweet Potato en Brochette.=--Peel and cut in half inch, uniform slices.
+Put on skewers in groups of four, place in boiling water and parboil ten
+minutes. Drain, brush over with vegetable oil, sprinkle with brown
+sugar, put in greased bag and bake twenty minutes in moderate oven.
+
+=Spinach.=--Pick over carefully, thoroughly wash, then put into a bag,
+leaving the vegetable quite damp. Add a little salt, seal and cook
+thirty minutes. Before lifting the bag from the oven slide a pan under
+it, and prick the bottom of the bag so the water will drain out. Dish,
+adding butter to season and serve.
+
+=Summer Squash in Butter.=--Cut into narrow strips and season with salt
+and pepper. Put into well-greased bag, add a generous lump of butter and
+cook about half an hour.
+
+=Stuffed Summer Squash.=--Boil in lightly salted water until tender. Cut
+off the top and scoop out the inside. Mix well with seasoned and
+buttered crumbs, chopped onion and grated cheese. Fill the shell,
+sprinkle the top with buttered crumbs, put in bag and bake until brown.
+
+=Stuffed Tomatoes With Cream.=--Mix together three-quarters of a cupful
+of cold-chopped chicken or veal, three tablespoonfuls of soft bread
+crumbs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, one teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt and quarter teaspoonful of paprika.
+Wash and wipe six medium-sized tomatoes, take a small piece from the
+stem end, carefully remove a portion of the pulp, and fill the hole with
+the stuffing; place in a buttered bag and cook for thirty minutes in a
+moderate oven. Remove to a hot platter, whip three tablespoonfuls of
+rich cream, add to it two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and pour a
+small portion over each tomato.
+
+=Turnips.=--Peel and slice your turnips and put them in a well-greased
+bag with a light seasoning of salt, a lump of butter barely dusted with
+flour, and enough thin stock to half cover them. Seal and cook in a
+moderate oven for an hour more or less according to the tenderness of
+the vegetable. Empty into a hot dish and if not rich enough add more
+butter, and dust with black pepper and salt.
+
+=Turnip Balls.=--Peel fine grained turnips, then cut into balls, using a
+vegetable scoop. Put into a well-greased bag with a light seasoning of
+salt, a little sugar, a dusting of pepper, a tablespoonful of butter or
+vegetable oil and a quarter cupful of hot water, seal, and cook half an
+hour until tender, but not brown. Take up, add a half cupful hot cream
+sauce, stir lightly in it, sprinkle with minced parsley and serve very
+hot.
+
+=Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas.=--Choose tender vine leaves and scald
+them, after which roll a little of the following stuffing in each leaf,
+making it round and firm so that the stuffing will not come out when the
+balls are boiled. Chop three onions, put a teacupful of good salad oil
+in a stewing-pan, and, when it is boiling hot, throw in the chopped
+onion. As soon as this begins to cook, add a small cupful of Carolina
+rice, some chopped parsley and mint, salt and pepper and a tablespoonful
+of currants and mix well on the fire till the rice begins to brown.
+Then take a vine leaf in your left hand and wrong side upward and put a
+little of this prepared rice into it. Put some of the coarse vine leaves
+at the bottom of the paper bag and arrange each little ball beside its
+neighbor, packing them rather tightly. When this is done, put in
+sufficient water just to cover the dolmas, add a little oil, seal the
+bag and bake till the rice is soft and the water is all absorbed. This
+is a very delicate and characteristic dish, but will be a failure if the
+vine leaves are not tender or the oil is rancid. Serve with lemon.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC.
+
+
+=Baking Powder Bread.=--SIFT together, five times over, four quarts of
+flour, six rounded teaspoonfuls baking powder and four level
+teaspoonfuls salt. Have the oven quite hot. Add to the sifted flour
+enough milk and water in nearly equal proportions, to make a moist, not
+wet, dough, stiff enough to handle, then divide into four portions,
+mould lightly into shape and put into brick shaped pans. Brush over the
+tops with milk, put into bags and bake an hour.
+
+=Bannocks.=--Sift together one pint of corn meal, one tablespoonful of
+sugar and a teaspoonful of salt. Pour over the mixture enough milk or
+milk and water to moisten. Let stand until cool, then add three
+well-beaten eggs, spread half an inch thick in well-greased bag. Seal
+and bake in hot oven. Cut into squares, split and serve hot and
+well-buttered.
+
+=Baking Powder Biscuits.=--Sift together three times over one quart of
+flour, two rounded teaspoonfuls baking powder, and a teaspoonful of
+salt. Rub in with the tips of the fingers one rounding tablespoonful
+vegetable shortening or butter, and when the flour feels mealy, add
+slowly a cup and a half of milk or milk and water mixed. Mix lightly
+with little handling, turn out on board, roll into a sheet half an inch
+in thickness, stamp out with small round cutter and lay in greased bag.
+Brush the top of each biscuit with milk. Seal and bake twenty minutes in
+a very hot oven.
+
+=Egg Biscuits.=--To make these delicious biscuits, beat one egg until
+light, then mix with it two-thirds of a cupful of milk. Add to one pint
+of flour a heaping teaspoonful baking powder and one-half teaspoonful
+salt, and sift. Blend with the mixture one tablespoonful of butter and
+two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add the egg mixture, make into a dough and
+knead lightly. Roll into a sheet a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out
+with a round cutter, brush over the top of each biscuit with cream,
+prick with a fork, bag, and bake in a hot oven.
+
+=Maple Biscuits.=--Make a very rich baking powder biscuit dough and roll
+out to half the thickness of biscuits, cut out with a small cutter,
+sprinkle grated maple sugar over the tops of half of them, moisten the
+under sides of the others and lay them on top of the sugared ones,
+pressing them on well. Lay close together in a bag, brush over with milk
+or melted butter, seal and bake in a quick oven.
+
+=Nut Biscuits.=--Sift together two cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful
+of salt, and a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder.
+
+Rub in one heaping tablespoonful of butter or vegetable shortening, and
+add one cupful of nuts, pecans, hickory or English walnuts chopped and a
+tablespoonful of sugar. Mix to a soft dough with milk or milk and water,
+mould with the hands into small balls, place in a greased bag, brush
+each biscuit over with milk or melted butter, put a pinch of chopped
+nuts on each, seal and bake in a hot oven.
+
+=Raisin Biscuits.=--These are excellent for home luncheon or the
+children's school or picnic lunch. Sift together one quart of flour, a
+half teaspoonful of salt and two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder.
+Work into the sifted flour a cupful of shortening, then add a cupful
+each seedless raisins and milk. Mix well and roll out on the molding
+board. Cut in small round biscuits, bag, and bake in a quick oven.
+
+=Hot Cross Buns.=--Sift together one quart of pastry flour, three
+teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub into the
+flour a piece of butter the size of an egg. Mix together a cupful each
+of milk and water and add one cupful of sugar. Stir into the flour, add
+two beaten eggs, and mix soft. Cut into small biscuits, make the cross
+on the top of each, bag, and bake in a very hot oven. Sift powdered
+sugar over them as soon as taken from the bag. A half cupful chopped
+raisins or currants may be added to the dough if desired.
+
+=Warmed Over Breads.=--It is a trick worth knowing that cold biscuit,
+rolls, gems and the like can be brushed over with water, put in a
+greased paper bag, sealed and set in the oven for eight minutes to
+emerge as fresh as though just newly baked.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+CAKES.
+
+
+CAKES baked in paper bags will be as brown as if baked without the bag
+and will retain their moisture infinitely better; therefore plain loaf
+cakes and all fruit cakes are greatly improved by the paper bag cooking.
+While drop cakes, oatmeal cookies and the like can be baked directly on
+the bottom of the bag, better results as far as form is concerned, will
+come from using very thin tin moulds or baking sheets or paper souffle
+cases. Before putting a cake in the oven, particularly if it be a fruit
+cake, it will be found advisable to set on the bottom of the oven, a
+shallow pan with a little water in it. Put in the bag, close the oven
+door and leave ten minutes with the gas on, then reduce the heat at
+least one-half. Bag cooking prevents cake crusting over and thereby
+permits it to rise to its full height. It also saves from burning.
+Midway in the baking the position of cakes can be changed, those on the
+grid itself set low on the broiler and vice versa so all will cook
+evenly. To test whether the cake is done or no, make a hole in the bag
+top and thrust in a clean straw or thin knife blade. If it comes out dry
+with no stickiness, the cake is done.
+
+=Cheese Cakes.=--These are a modern adaptation of the old "flawns," a
+favorite Eastertide cake. As formerly made, there was a tedious
+separation of curds and whey; but the housewife of today eliminates that
+by taking a Neufchatel or cream cheese as the foundation. This is
+crumbled fine and added to the other ingredients, allowing to each
+Neufchatel cheese, one small cupful of sugar, the grated rind and half
+the juice of one lemon, a half cupful each sifted cracker crumbs and
+currants, one tablespoonful melted butter, half a nutmeg grated, half a
+cupful of cream or rich milk, a saltspoonful of salt and four eggs.
+Crumble the cheese and crackers together, beat the eggs and add,
+together with sugar, salt and spices. Next add the butter and cream and
+lastly the currants, lemon juice and rind. Mix thoroughly and fill patty
+tins lined with puff paste. Ornament the top with currants and slender
+strips of citron, put in buttered bag. Seal and bake in a quick oven.
+
+=Cinnamon Cake.=--Cream one-quarter cup of butter and one cup of sugar,
+add one-half cup of milk, one well beaten egg, one and three-quarters
+cups of flour sifted twice with three even teaspoons of baking powder,
+and pour in a shallow pan to make a sheet rather than a loaf. Just
+before setting the cake into the oven sprinkle cinnamon and granulated
+sugar over the top. Put into a bag. Seal and bake twenty minutes. Serve
+fresh and cut in squares.
+
+=English Fairy Cakes.=--Sift together six ounces of flour and a half
+teaspoonful of baking powder. Grate a lemon rind and add to the sifted
+flour together with three ounces chopped candied cherries. Beat to a
+cream four ounces of butter and four of sugar, then add three eggs one
+at a time, beating thoroughly. Add the flour and cherry mixture and stir
+lightly. Have ready some buttered patty-tins, half fill with the batter,
+bag, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes.
+
+=Fruit Cookies.=--One cupful and one-half of sugar, either white or
+brown, one cupful of butter and lard or vegetable shortening, (half and
+half is good) three tablespoonfuls of molasses, the same amount of hot
+water, three eggs, one cupful of raisins, one teaspoonful each of soda
+(dissolved in hot water), ginger and cinnamon, a light sprinkling of
+cloves, and flour to make very stiff. Half a cupful or more of chopped
+nut meats makes a nice addition, but is not necessary.
+
+Cream the sugar and shortening, as for cake, then add eggs well beaten,
+molasses and water, spices and soda, then flour, and lastly fruit. When
+the batter will take up no more flour, lift it up by teaspoonfuls, pat
+it flat and in shape in the baking pan, which must be well-buttered, put
+in bag, and bake in fairly hot oven, being careful not to scorch.
+
+This will be found much easier than rolling the dough on a board, and
+will make about forty cookies.
+
+=Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Gingerbread.=--In a symposium on gingerbreads held
+one Summer afternoon at Sunapee Inn, New Hampshire, this was given as an
+example of a most delicate inexpensive cake. Add to one cupful molasses,
+one cupful softened butter or lard, filling up the cup in which it is
+measured with boiling water. Add two even teaspoonfuls soda, a small
+teaspoonful of ginger, a pinch of salt, one beaten egg, and two heaping
+cupfuls sifted flour. Beat lightly (not too much lest it make the ginger
+bread light colored), put in bag and bake in a moderate oven.
+
+=Good Friday Cake.=--This is a simple tea cake, not very sweet, and is
+served hot or cold as preferred. To make it, beat to a cream a scant
+cupful of butter and a quarter cupful of sugar. Add a teaspoonful of
+the grated yellow rind of lemon, a half teaspoonful of lemon juice, a
+pound of flour and enough water to make a stiff paste. Divide the dough
+into two equal parts and roll into large, round cakes about the size of
+an ordinary pie tin. Mark the edges with a "jigger" into some fancy
+design, or simply pinch with the fingers. Cut each cake into quarters,
+brush over with the white of an egg, lay a strip of candied lemon peel
+on each, sprinkle with granulated sugar put in bag, and bake.
+
+=German Honey Cakes.=--These are fine for luncheon or the kaffee klatch.
+Put into a saucepan two cupfuls strained honey and one cupful sugar.
+Warm, add a cupful of butter and a half tablespoonful soda dissolved in
+a little warm water. Add a half cupful caraway seed and flour to roll.
+Roll into a rather thick sheet, mark into squares, put in bag, and bake.
+When done cut in small cakes.
+
+=Pecan Kisses.=--Into the whites of six eggs put fourteen little more
+than level tablespoonfuls white sugar and beat long and thoroughly until
+stiff enough to stand alone. Have ready a small cup pecan kernels having
+them in as perfect halves as possible. Beat in lightly, drop in greased
+baking sheet, put in bag. Seal and bake in a moderate oven.
+
+=Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake.=--Beat to a cream one and one-half cupfuls
+sugar and one-half cupful of butter. Add the yolks of three eggs beaten
+until light and thin. Add two and one-half cupfuls flour measured after
+sifting with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Lastly fold in
+the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs and flavor to taste. Put in
+light tin, set in paper bag. Seal and bake thirty-five minutes.
+
+=Hickory Nut Macaroons.=--To one whole egg beaten light, add one cup
+sugar and beat well. Add two tablespoonfuls flour and one cup nut meats
+and lastly fold in the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs. Drop by
+spoonfuls into a well-greased bag and bake in a moderate oven ten or
+twelve minutes.
+
+=Walnut Macaroons.=--One and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-third cup of
+butter, three eggs, three cups of flour, one teaspoonful of soda,
+dissolved in water, one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of
+cinnamon, one cup of English walnut meats, one cup of chopped dates. Do
+not roll the mixture as in ordinary cookies, but drop into a greased bag
+with a spoon. Seal and bake slowly for thirty minutes.
+
+=Maple Sugar Cake.=--Add to one cup maple syrup one beaten egg, a pinch
+of salt, one cup of thick, sour cream, into which has been stirred a
+teaspoonful (scant) of soda, a teaspoonful of ginger and flour to make a
+thin batter. Bake in a bag and cut in squares.
+
+=Molasses Coffee Cake.=--Then right here let me give you a recipe for a
+fruit cake or gingerbread with fruit as you may elect to call it. Cream
+together one cupful of sugar and three-fourths cup of butter. Add one
+cupful black molasses, one cupful strong coffee with a teaspoonful of
+soda dissolved in it, four beaten eggs, one teaspoonful each cinnamon
+and nutmeg, three-fourths teaspoonful cloves, one half pound shredded
+citron and three cupfuls sifted flour. Do not beat longer than
+necessary. Put in tin, then in bag, and bake in a slow oven.
+
+=Nut Cake.=--To make a light, delicious cake, cream together one cup of
+sugar and five tablespoons of melted butter. Into this beat two well
+beaten eggs, a pinch of salt and a cup of milk. Stir into this two
+heaping cupfuls of flour, sifted with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking
+powder. After this is well beaten, stir in three-quarters of a cup of
+chopped walnuts. Bake in square cake tin in bag. Ice when cold with
+plain pulverized sugar icing. Cut in squares, placing a piece of walnut
+meat on each square.
+
+=Oatmeal Cakes.=--Beat to a cream three-fourths cupful vegetable
+shortening or butter and a cupful and a half of brown sugar. Dissolve
+one teaspoonful of soda in one cupful of boiling water and add to butter
+and sugar mixture. Mix together two cupfuls of dry oatmeal, two cupfuls
+of flour and a half teaspoonful of salt and add to the other
+ingredients. Flavor to taste. Lastly add two well beaten eggs and drop
+from spoon into greased bag or flat tin and place in bag. Seal and bake
+in moderate oven about fifteen minutes.
+
+=German Peach Cake.=--Make a rich baking powder biscuit dough and roll
+out in sheets to fit a long biscuit pan. It should not be more than a
+half-inch thick. Brush the top with butter and cover with slices of
+peach arranged in symmetrical overlapping rows, or half peaches with the
+rounded side up. Sprinkle generously with sugar, cover with another tin
+to prevent the fruit from becoming mushy or hardened, put in bag and
+bake about half an hour in a hot oven. This is a good substitute for
+peach pie.
+
+=Pork Cake.=--This is an old New England dish that has been relegated to
+the background these many years, but is lately coming to the fore. A
+gray haired New York physician, dining at my house the other night,
+declared that his old Connecticut aunt's pork cake was one of the
+dearest remembered gustatorial delights of his boyhood.
+
+To make it chop one pound of fat pork fine. Pour over it a pint of
+boiling water, then stir in three cupfuls brown sugar, one pound of
+seeded raisins, eight cupfuls of flour and two rounding teaspoonfuls of
+soda dissolved in a little water. Add a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a half
+teaspoonful cloves and nutmeg, mix thoroughly and bake in a slow oven
+like fruit cake. If preferred, two beaten eggs may be added in which
+case less flour will be required.
+
+=Potato Chocolate Cake.=--To two cupfuls of sugar and two-thirds cup
+butter beaten to a cream, add yolks of four eggs beaten until lemon
+colored and light and a half cupful of sweet milk. Next add a
+teaspoonful of soda dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of hot water, one
+cup mashed potato, two cups of flour, and four squares of chocolate
+melted, one cup chopped walnuts, a teaspoonful of vanilla. Lastly fold
+in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs. This may be baked either in a
+large loaf or in layers in a paper bag.
+
+=Potato Caramel Cake.=--Beat to a cream two-thirds cup of butter and two
+cups of sugar, add the yolks of four eggs beaten until light and mix
+with a half cup of sweet milk and one cup mashed potato. Add two squares
+of bitter chocolate melted, one-half teaspoonful nutmeg, and two cups
+flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Fold in whites of four
+eggs beaten stiff, a cupful of nut meats, preferably English walnuts,
+chopped. Bake slowly for about an hour in a gingerbread tin in paper
+bag, making the cake an inch and a half or two inches thick; or else in
+layer tins together with white icing. This will make four layers.
+
+=Auburn Pound Cake.=--Beat to a cream three-fourths pounds of butter and
+one pound fine granulated sugar. Add the yolks of nine eggs beaten light
+and one pound flour measured after sifting and then sifted again with a
+teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. Fold in the stiffly whipped
+whites and flavor with vanilla, almond or the grated rind and juice of a
+lemon or a wine glass of sherry. Pour into well-buttered thin tin mould
+and seal in bags. Bake an hour and a quarter or an hour and a half in a
+moderate oven.
+
+=Raisin Nut Cakes.=--For raisin nut cakes for afternoon tea, beat six
+eggs lightly, beating the whites and with an even teaspoon of soda, one
+teaspoon of sugar creamed with a cupful of butter, a cupful and a half
+of milk and three cupfuls and a half of flour. Add a cupful of chopped
+walnuts, two pounds of chopped raisins, a wineglass of brandy, two
+teaspoonfuls of baking powder and spice to taste. Make into small cakes,
+put on tin in bag and bake in a moderate oven.
+
+=Sour Cream Cake.=--Beat together one cup of powdered sugar and one cup
+of sour cream, add two eggs beaten light, one and one-half cups of flour
+sifted twice with an even teaspoon of soda twice, one teaspoon of
+vanilla and one cup of seeded and cut raisins rolled lightly in flour.
+Beat to make the batter creamy and bake at once in a rather shallow pan
+sealed in a paper bag.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+FRUITS.
+
+
+=Baked Apples.=--WASH, but do not peel; cut out specks and bruises,
+core, fill the bottom of the core-space with a bit of butter, over which
+pile sugar and add a dusting of cinnamon. A clove stuck in the side may
+take the place of the cinnamon. Seal inside a well-greased bag and bake
+eighteen to twenty minutes in a fairly hot oven. Serve hot with sugar
+and cream or a hard sauce.
+
+=Baked Apple Dumplings.=--Make a regular shortcake crust, using one pint
+of flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder and a saltspoonful of salt,
+sifted together three times, one-quarter cup butter rubbed in with the
+tips of the fingers, and one egg beaten and mixed with three-quarters
+cup milk. Roll out and cut in five-inch squares. Have ready three large
+apples, peeled, cored and halved and lay each piece on a square of the
+paste. Fold the pastry over each apple like a blanket, lapping the four
+corners at the top and pressing them down firmly. Turn the dumplings
+upside down in a well-buttered bag, dot with bits of butter and sprinkle
+with sugar. Set the bag in a quick oven and bake to a russet brown. This
+will take about half an hour. Serve with any sweet sauce, or rich, sweet
+cream.
+
+=Cold Baked Apples With Rum.=--Peel, core and bake the apples in a
+buttered bag, with a teaspoonful of sugar to each apple. Put in the
+serving dish, and while still very hot pour over each a dessertspoonful
+of rum. Let cool and serve with cake or crisped water biscuit.
+
+=Cinnamon Apples.=--Peel, core and quarter six good cooking apples,
+preferably greenings. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a warm bowl and
+stir the apples in it until coated with the butter. Mix a teaspoonful of
+ground cinnamon with a half cup of granulated sugar, and stir into the
+apples. Have a paper bag thoroughly buttered and put the apples in it.
+Rinse out the bowl with a cup of hot water, add it to the apples, seal
+carefully, place on a broiler which rests on a pie plate and bake in a
+hot oven fifteen minutes. Half a pint of whipped cream over the apples
+when served is an addition, but they are delicious, cooked in this way,
+without it.
+
+=Apples Stuffed With Figs.=--Steam tender as many figs as you desire,
+chop into dice and roll each piece in powdered sugar seasoned with
+cinnamon. Core large, tart apples and fill the cavities with the figs.
+Bag and bake in a hot oven, adding a little hot water. When tender,
+remove carefully to the serving dish and pour over them a syrup made by
+boiling a half cup of sugar with an equal quantity of water. Flavor to
+taste and pour over the apples. Serve cold with whipped or plain cream.
+
+=Baked Apples and Nuts.=--For a half dozen large apples a good
+three-fourths cup of nut meats, butternuts, black walnuts or hickory
+nuts--will be required. Chop the meats fine and add a half cup of sugar.
+Core the apples and fill the centres with the nuts and sugar. Put in a
+rather deep pan, with a cupful of boiling water added, bag and bake.
+When tender remove carefully, place in a pretty dish, pour the juice
+over the apples, and crown with whipped cream or a meringue made from
+the whites of two eggs.
+
+=Raisin Apples.=--A simple dessert enjoyed by the children consists of
+apples, cored and each cavity filled with sugar, nutmeg, a bit of butter
+and two or three raisins. Add one cupful of hot water, put in bag and
+bake in a slow oven. This may be varied occasionally by placing a
+meringue on the top of each apple when done, and cooking in a slow oven
+for seven minutes longer. Serve cold.
+
+=Baked Apple Sauce.=--Peel and core firm apples of good flavor. Stick
+three cloves in each and put bits of mace and cinnamon in the core
+spaces. Put them in a well-buttered bag with two heaping cupfuls of
+sugar and a half cupful of water. Cook thirty minutes. Have the oven
+very hot at first, but slack heat after seven minutes. Lemon juice
+instead of water makes a richer flavored sauce. In that case add a half
+cupful more sugar at the outset.
+
+=Baked Bananas.=--Peel and remove coarse threads, cut the pulp in halves
+lengthwise, dust with sugar and sprinkle with lemon juice, put in
+buttered bag and bake fifteen minutes, or roll the bananas in hot
+marmalade, then bake.
+
+=Stuffed Dates.=--Select large, fine fruit, wash quickly and remove the
+pit. Put into the cavity a bit of crystallized ginger or citron, a nut
+or little candied peel, roll in confectioner's sugar and lay in lightly
+buttered bag left open at one end. Put in coolish oven to harden.
+
+=Baked Gooseberries.=--Put into a greased bag a pint of "topped and
+tailed" gooseberries, add a cupful each sugar and water, seal and cook
+twenty minutes.
+
+=Baked Peaches.=--Pour boiling water over the fruit, then rub off the
+skins and place in buttered bag without removing the pits. Add a
+teaspoonful of water for each peach, seal and bake about twenty minutes
+in a hot oven. When done, sweeten to taste and set aside to chill before
+using. Serve with sweet cream.
+
+=Baked Pears.=--Select ripe, fine-flavored fruit, snip out the blossom
+end and stick in a clove. If the skin is thin, do not peel, but if
+tough, remove, put in buttered bag with a little water, seal and cook
+from fifteen to thirty minutes according to the quality of the fruit.
+
+=Baked Plums.=--Put in buttered bag with a little water and cook twenty
+or twenty-five minutes. Sweeten to taste when done.
+
+=Baked Quinces.=--Wash, core and peel, fill the centers with sugar and
+put in greased bag with two tablespoonfuls of water allowed for each
+quince. Seal and bake slowly for an hour, until the quince is tender but
+not mushy. Serve with the quince syrup and a spoonful of whipped cream
+on top of each quince.
+
+=Baked Raisins.=--Remove stems, clean well, put in a colander and wash
+thoroughly. Put in buttered bag with a cupful of water for each cupful
+of raisins. Seal and cook slowly for half an hour. A mixture of dried
+apricots, prunes and cherries is nice with the raisins, but these fruits
+need long soaking in cold water before adding to the raisins and
+cooking.
+
+=Chestnut Patties.=--Beat together, until smooth, one egg and one cupful
+of pulverized sugar. Add one cupful of chestnut meats that have been put
+through a nut grinder, five tablespoonfuls of flour and one teaspoonful
+of baking powder. Beat lightly, then drop by spoonfuls on buttered tins.
+Dust with pulverized sugar and cinnamon. Put in bag and bake in a quick
+oven.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+PASTRY.
+
+
+USE tin or agate pie plates for paper bag cookery. Line with a delicate
+crust, and prick the bottom with a fork. Turn in whatever filling you
+elect to have, and put on top crust or the latticed bars. Cut a cross in
+the center of a solid crust and turn back the points or prick with a
+fork. Any pie can be baked in a paper bag with advantage. Cook two pies
+at once, shifting midway in the cooking from the upper to the lower
+shelves and vice versa. Have the oven hot when the pies go in, but
+reduce the heat as soon as the bag corners turn brown. Average pies
+require about half an hour for the baking.
+
+=Plain Pie Crust.=--For each pie allow a heaping cupful of pastry flour
+and sift into a cold bowl with a half teaspoonful of salt and a
+saltspoonful of baking powder. Have ready a quarter cupful of butter
+that has been washed in cold water, then chilled on the ice. Work into
+the sifted flour a quarter cupful of lard or vegetable shortening, using
+the tips of the fingers or a case knife. As soon as the flour begins to
+feel like coarse meal, moisten to a dough with cold water. Add a little
+at a time, handling the crust as lightly as possible. It will take about
+a quarter of a cupful of water to a heaping cupful of flour. Toss on a
+smooth board, dredged lightly with flour, pat and roll a quarter of an
+inch in thickness, keeping the sheet of paste a little wider than it is
+long. Now place the chilled butter on the center of the lower half of
+the paste and cover by folding the upper part of the sheet over it.
+Press the edges together so as to inclose as much air as possible. Fold
+the right side of the paste over the inclosed butter and the left side
+under. Turn the paste half way around, pat into shape and roll out
+lightly having the sheet of paste longer than it is wide, and lifting
+often to prevent its sticking to the board. Dredge slightly with flour
+when necessary. Fold again so as to make three layers, divide in halves,
+pat and roll out the one intended for the lower crust having it a little
+larger than the pie plate, to allow for shrinkage. Fold back the rolled
+out crust and readjust in the pie tin letting it come well up over the
+edge, then pressing back. Turn in the filling then roll out the upper
+crust. When this reaches the required size, fold over and perforate the
+center, piercing with a fork or using a knife to make any pattern
+desired, and place in position over the pie.
+
+=Apple Pie.=--Peel and slice thin, tart, well flavored apples. Put in
+crust, sprinkle with sugar, dust with cinnamon or nutmeg, cover with
+latticed or full crust, put in bag, and bake half an hour in a steady
+oven.
+
+=A New Apple Pie.=--Peel and core about eight or ten apples or as many
+as are wanted. Make a rich pastry dough and cut in strips about two
+inches wide. Wind a strip around each apple, but do not cover it. Fill
+the center of each apple with butter, sugar and water. Sprinkle with
+nutmeg, put in bag, then in the oven and bake. Serve with or without
+cream.
+
+=Deep Apple Pie With Cream Cheese.=--Bake a nice apple pie about
+three-quarters of an hour before dinner. Have a small cream cheese
+pressed through a ricer and mixed with a cup of whipped cream and a
+little salt. Press through a pastry tube or tin funnel on top of the
+pie in a pattern, and serve warm for dessert. The cheese and cream
+combination may also be used on a two crust apple pie.
+
+=Cranberry Pie.=--Line a rather deep pie plate with a plain crust. Put
+on a border of richer paste, fill with cranberries cooked according to
+directions for stewed cranberries, and put strips of crust over the top,
+making squares or diamonds as preferred. Put in bag and bake.
+
+=Cranberry and Raisin Pie.=--Allow to each pie a cup and a half
+cranberries and a half cup of raisins. The latter should be seeded and
+the berries washed and cut in two. Mix with them a cup of sugar, a
+tablespoon of flour, and a teaspoonful of butter. Fill a pie plate lined
+with crust, heaping up slightly in the middle. Cover with an upper
+crust, bag, and bake in a hot oven.
+
+=Lemon Pie.=--Beat the yolks of three eggs lightly, add one cup of sugar
+slowly and then the juice and grated yellow rind of one lemon. Beat hard
+and stir in two even tablespoons of flour made smooth in one cup of
+milk. Turn into a paste lined plate and bake about half an hour in a
+paper bag. Cool partly and cover with the whites of three eggs beaten
+stiff with six even tablespoons of powdered sugar. Pile roughly and set
+in a very cool oven to become firm.
+
+=Mince Pie.=--A simple rule for making mince meat by measure, calls for
+a pint bowl of well cooked beef chopped to the finest mince and measured
+after chopping, two bowls of tart apples chopped into coarse bits and a
+half bowl chopped suet. Add to this a pound of seeded raisins, also
+chopped, a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of citron cut in thin
+slices, a tablespoonful each of powdered cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg.
+Use enough sweet cider to make moist, then add a bowl of sugar and an
+even teaspoonful salt. Scald well and put away in a stone jar. When you
+make the pies add a few whole raisins, chopped nut meats or any jelly
+you have on hand.
+
+When mince pie is to be reheated for dinner and served hot, grated
+cheese may be sprinkled over the top just before setting it in the oven
+to heat.
+
+=Mock Mince Pie.=--To four quarts green tomatoes, chopped fine, allow
+three pounds brown sugar, the juice of two lemons and their yellow rind,
+grated, a tablespoonful each cinnamon, allspice and salt, half a
+teaspoonful cloves and a tablespoonful of grated nutmeg. Put into a
+porcelain lined kettle and simmer gently until reduced one half in bulk.
+Now add two pounds and one-half seeded raisins, or part raisins and part
+currants or chopped prunes and a cup of boiled cider. Then cook an hour
+or two longer until thick. Bake as any mince pie.
+
+=Pecan Pie With One Crust.=--One cup of sugar, three eggs, one cup of
+sweet cream, one cup of pecans well mashed. Beat very light, pour into
+two pie pans that are lined with good rich paste, put in bag and bake.
+
+=Real Old Fashioned Pumpkin Pie.=--If you are fortunate enough to get a
+genuine old fashioned field pumpkin, you may be thankful. If forbidden
+that privilege, the canned pumpkin or the dried pumpkin flour, or again
+a Hubbard squash or a big yellow one, may be so manipulated as to
+deceive even a connoisseur on pumpkin pies, into thinking he has the
+very kind that "Mother used to make," and giving thanks accordingly. If
+the field pumpkin is yours, wash, cut up without peeling, scrape out all
+the wooly fiber, then put over the fire on the back of the stove. Add
+just a little water to keep it from sticking on the bottom, cover
+closely and steam gently for six or eight hours. At the end of this time
+the pumpkin pulp should be thoroughly cooked in its own juices. Take up,
+cool a little, then pull off the skin with a sharp knife. Press through
+a sieve and let it stand overnight in a press so as to remove the
+superfluous liquid, which should be saved to use in making Boston brown
+bread. When ready to bake, measure the pulp and to every five cupfuls
+allow one teaspoonful of salt, half a grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of
+mace, two teaspoonfuls of ginger and a large cupful of sugar. Beat four
+eggs and stir into the pumpkin pulp, together with four cupfuls of sweet
+milk and a half cupful cream. Beat well and taste to see if it is sweet
+enough. Turn into plates lined with good pastry, bag, and bake
+three-quarters of an hour until a golden brown and firm in the center.
+Serve with good American cheese. Some old-fashioned cooks like their
+pumpkin pies flavored with a little rose water.
+
+In making pies of the canned pumpkin, observe the same proportions. If
+the pumpkin flour is used, spread on a tin and brown before adding the
+milk.
+
+The English fashion of baking pumpkin as well as mince pies in
+individual shells, is preferred by many who do not feel the compelling
+force of tradition. A new wrinkle for the woman who holds to her pumpkin
+pie for Thanksgiving, but wishes to present it in very modern guise is
+to serve it with cottage cheese balls and strained honey. The
+combination of flavors is certainly a most happy one. The cheese balls
+are piled in a pretty dish and the honey served from a glass bowl.
+
+=Individual English Apple Tart.=--Peel and core tart apples, put into a
+large saucepan, cover with boiling water, stew gently until the apples
+are tender but unbroken. Sweeten to taste. Line the edges of a deep pie
+tin with crust, then fill the center of the dish with apples, dropping
+into the center of each a spoonful of orange marmalade. Cover the top of
+the dish with strips of pastry arranged lattice fashion, bag, and bake
+quickly until brown. Serve hot.
+
+=Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets.=--To one quart of cooked and sifted pumpkin
+add one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, six well beaten eggs, a
+cupful of sugar, a quarter teaspoonful each of mace and nutmeg, four
+teaspoonfuls of ginger and one gill of milk. Bake in patty-pans lined
+with rich flaky crust, set in paper bag. Remove from pans before
+serving. A touch of novelty is given by topping each tartlet with a
+generous portion of maple syrup or strained honey.
+
+
+
+TURNOVERS.
+
+=Apple and Cheese Turnovers.=--Make a crust, using six heaping
+tablespoonfuls of flour, three tablespoonfuls lard and butter, half and
+half, a saltspoonful of salt and just enough water to roll out. Mark out
+into squares of about four inches. Have ready some nice tart apples
+sliced fine, and also cheese sliced very thin. Fill each one with
+apples, sprinkle sugar and cinnamon over the apple, put a tiny piece of
+butter on top, then turn up the edges of the crust, overlapping the
+upper side about two inches. Place in a buttered bag, and having wet the
+edges of the crust with milk, bake to a nice brown. Remove from the
+oven, raise up the upper crust, put in the cheese, re-cover, turn a tin
+over the turnovers and stand in the oven again for ten minutes, leaving
+the oven door open. This softens the cheese. Eat while warm. Caraway
+seeds may be used in place of cinnamon if desired. The turnovers may be
+eaten plain with cream or with a liquid sauce as preferred.
+
+=Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers.=--Make a good crust and roll out twice.
+Mark a square and spread thickly with jam. Fold over two sides first and
+pinch together, then fold over the other two sides in the same way.
+Brush over with milk and sprinkle with brown sugar. Put into
+well-greased bag and bake thirty minutes.
+
+=Mince Turnovers.=--Make the original round of paste about four inches
+across. Put a tablespoonful of mince meat upon it, fold over very neatly
+and pinch the edges together. Flatten and cook inside a buttered bag.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+SHORT CAKES
+
+
+=Banana Short Cake.=--BEAT to a cream one-half cupful butter and one of
+sugar. Add two well-beaten eggs, a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of
+baking powder sifted with a pint of flour. Flavor with vanilla. Mix
+lightly and roll out into a sheet about half an inch thick. Cut into
+rounds about four inches in diameter, and having brushed each one over
+with melted butter, pile on top of each other and put in buttered bag.
+Bake twelve minutes, separate, and spread between the layers a thick
+filling of sliced bananas flavored with lemon juice and sweetened to
+taste. Serve with Foamy Sauce.
+
+=Peach Short Cake.=--Use for this either fresh peaches or canned and
+make in one large short cake or individual ones which are really nicer
+in paper bag cookery. For the latter sift together a pint and a half of
+flour, two tablespoonfuls of salt. Rub in with the tips of the fingers
+two tablespoonfuls of butter, then add one beaten egg and milk to make a
+soft dough. Cut out like biscuit, bag and bake in a quick oven. When
+baked, split in two, spread lightly with butter and fill with the
+sweetened peaches and whipped cream, a layer of peaches first and cream
+on top. Cover the little short cakes in the same way, piling up the
+whipped cream on top.
+
+=Rhubarb Short Cake.=--Stew rhubarb and sweeten to taste. Make a short
+cake batter, using one-quarter cupful of butter and a half cupful sugar
+creamed together, one egg well beaten, one quarter cupful sweet milk and
+one cupful of flour sifted with one teaspoonful of baking powder. Make
+in two large layers or individual ones, and bake in paper bag. When
+done, spread with the rhubarb filling and serve with whipped cream or a
+cream sauce.
+
+=Old Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake.=--The real old-fashioned
+strawberry short cake may be made with sour cream or rich sour milk and
+soda, or sweet milk and baking powder. Sometimes an egg is added and a
+tablespoonful of sugar, but it is a far cry from the French strawberry
+short cake of hotels and restaurants which is really a cake, either
+sponge or layer, with whole berries between the layers and thick whipped
+cream or a meringue on top. To make the genuine old-fashioned sour milk
+biscuit short cake, which is really more tender than that made with
+sweet milk, put four cups sifted pastry flour in a mixing bowl with a
+half teaspoonful of salt and mix well. Add three tablespoonfuls of
+butter and chop fine, using a silver knife. Dissolve a level teaspoonful
+of soda in a little hot water and stir into a large cupful of sour cream
+or rich sour milk. When it stops "purring" add a tablespoonful of sugar
+and one well beaten egg to the milk and turn into the sifted flour. Mix
+well together with a spatula or flexible knife, handling as little as
+possible, then turn out on to a floured board. The dough should be soft
+enough to roll easily. Divide and roll lightly and quickly into two thin
+sheets. These may be baked separately in well-greased round tins in a
+paper bag or laid one on top of the other with a thin coating of butter
+between and baked in one bag. Bake in a very hot oven. When done,
+separate. Have ready a quart of ripe berries washed, crushed and
+sugared. This should have been done before beginning the dough, so that
+the sugar will have time to draw out the rich juice of the berries.
+Cover the lower half of the short cake with a thick layer of these
+berries, place the second cake on top and cover with the rest of the
+crushed and sweetened berries or large whole ones dusted with powdered
+sugar. Serve with thick cream or a crushed berry sauce.
+
+
+
+PUDDINGS.
+
+=Almond Pudding.=--Blanche one pound of almonds and grind to a smooth
+paste with two teaspoonfuls of rose water. Add a wine glass of wine and
+a half cupful of cream thickened with a large spoonful of bread crumbs.
+Add a half pound of sugar, seven well beaten eggs and a half teaspoonful
+of grated nutmeg. Put in a thin walled pudding dish, set in bag, seal
+and bake half an hour.
+
+=Apple and Fig Pudding.=--Select large tart baking apples, wash and
+core. Stuff each apple with a fig rolled small as possible or chopped,
+as preferred. Put in buttered bag and bake slowly until tender, but not
+broken. Place in a glass dish and cover with a thick boiled custard.
+Decorate each apple with a candied or Maraschino cherry and serve with
+sweet wafers.
+
+=Banana Pudding.=--Beat the yolks of three eggs and whites of two. Add a
+cupful of sugar, a scant half cupful softened butter, a cupful stale
+cake crumbs and a cupful of milk. Beat all together well, then add
+three bananas sliced thin, and the juice of a half lemon. Put into a
+basin then in a well-buttered bag, seal and bake half an hour, take out,
+cover with a meringue made from the whipped white of the egg that was
+left over and a tablespoonful of sugar with a little lemon juice to
+flavor. Strew a little candied peel over the meringue and set in the
+oven, which should be quite cool for the meringue to rise slowly and
+stiffen. Serve with lemon sauce.
+
+=Farmer's Plum Pudding.=--Put into a basin two cupfuls of flour sifted
+with two level teaspoonfuls baking powder, a pinch of salt and a level
+teaspoonful ginger and cinnamon. Add one-half cupful sugar, one cupful
+chopped suet, one-half cupful each candied peel and currants and
+raisins. Make to batter consistency with one-half cupful each molasses
+and milk and one beaten egg. Put in small buttered molds, set in paper
+bag, pour in enough cold water to come three parts up the sides, seal
+and bake two hours, reducing the heat of the oven after the first ten
+minutes. Serve with hard or foamy sauce.
+
+=Peach Betty.=--Sprinkle a layer of crumbs in a buttered baking dish and
+over this a layer of peach quarters. Sprinkle with sugar, then repeat a
+layer of crumbs and peaches and sugar until the dish is filled, having
+the crumbs on top. Put in buttered bag and bake thirty-five minutes in a
+moderate oven, and serve with sweetened cream. To prepare the buttered
+crumbs melt a little butter and pour over the crumbs.
+
+=Peach Cobbler.=--For this the richest and ripest peaches are none too
+good. Some variety of the yellow peach is usually chosen because of its
+superior richness. For its baking a pudding dish at least three and a
+half inches deep is chosen. This is lined with a rich crust, a square
+of the dough being taken from the bottom. Now peel enough ripe and
+luscious peaches to fill the dish, tearing them apart but leaving the
+pits in to impart their superior flavor. Sweeten abundantly, add about
+two tablespoonfuls water, and a tablespoonful of butter cut in bits.
+Cover with a layer of puff paste, sealing it down carefully on the sides
+to the border, so as to lose none of the juices. Bag and bake in a quick
+oven for forty-five minutes. When nearly done, draw to the edge of the
+oven, open the top of the bag, dust with powdered sugar and set back a
+few moments longer for the crust to glaze. This is perfection, whether
+eaten hot or cold, serving it alone, with cream or with a hard sauce as
+preferred.
+
+=Peach Roly Poly.=--Make a sweet biscuit dough. Roll out thin and spread
+with a layer of sliced or chopped peaches and roll the dough over as for
+jelly roll. Put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven.
+
+=Plum Roly Poly.=--Wash and stew any ripe sound plums and remove the
+pits. If very juicy, drain away the most of the juice. Sweeten to taste.
+Make a good biscuit dough or puff paste as preferred, roll out in long
+strips, sprinkle sugar on the upper side, then spread thinly with the
+stewed plums, roll up and pinch the ends tight. Put in buttered bag and
+cook thirty minutes. Serve with a sauce made from the extra juice
+sweetened and slightly thickened with a little cornstarch.
+
+=Rye Bread Pudding.=--Toast stale rye bread to a golden brown, then roll
+into fine crumbs. Brush small custard cups or a mould with melted
+butter, sprinkle over a few currants, raisins, prunes (cut fine) or
+figs, then fill with crumbs. Beat three eggs without separating until
+light, add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pint of milk (with vanilla
+or nutmeg to flavor) and pour carefully over the bread crumbs. Let them
+stand ten minutes, until the mixture has soaked into the crumbs; then
+set in a paper bag in a pan of cold water and cook like a custard in the
+oven. It will take about half an hour. Test by slipping the blade of the
+knife down the side of the bag. If it comes up clear, the pudding is
+sufficiently baked. Serve hot with lemon or egg sauce or fruit syrup.
+
+=Tapioca Apple Pudding.=--Soak one cupful tapioca in three pints cold
+water over night. In the morning put on to boil and cook twenty or
+thirty minutes, until it looks clear. Add a quart and a half peeled and
+quartered apples, one cup of sugar, a teaspoonful salt, and lemon juice
+or extract to flavor. Turn into a buttered dish, put in bag and bake an
+hour in a moderate oven. When cold serve with cream and sugar.
+
+=A White Plum Pudding.=--Beat to a cream a half cup of sugar and
+three-quarters cup of butter. Add four eggs well beaten, a saltspoonful
+of salt, two cups milk, a quart of flour mixed with one-half cup
+shredded citron, one-half cup currants, a teaspoonful grated nutmeg and
+a teaspoonful vanilla. Just before turning into the mould stir in two
+even tablespoonfuls pure baking powder. Put in bag, surround with water,
+steam two hours and serve with any good sauce.
+
+
+
+PUDDING SAUCES.
+
+=Caramel Sauce.=--Put one-half cupful of sugar over the fire in a clean,
+smooth saucepan and stir until it becomes a light brown color. Pour in
+a half cupful of boiling water, simmer ten minutes, add a tablespoonful
+of butter and serve with pudding or fritters.
+
+=Cornstarch Pudding Sauce.=--Beat together one tablespoonful cornstarch,
+two tablespoonfuls of butter and a half cupful of brown sugar. Set on
+the stove until heated, then turn in hot water a little at a time and
+cook until consistency required. Add four tablespoonfuls of grape or
+apple jelly with spices or other flavoring to taste, and serve hot.
+
+=Cream Sauce.=--Mix together two tablespoonfuls each of cornstarch and
+sugar. Add one beaten egg and cook in double boiler until thickened. Add
+a tablespoonful of butter and flavoring to taste.
+
+=Cream Sauce à la Hotel Astor.=--Beat together one cupful each sugar and
+butter until perfectly blended. Add cream until mixture is like thick
+cream, dust with nutmeg or mace and serve.
+
+=Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding.=--Boil together one cupful of
+water and two of sugar for ten minutes. Thicken slightly with three
+level teaspoonfuls arrow root or two teaspoonfuls corn starch mixed with
+a little cold water, simmer five minutes, then add a half cupful candied
+cherries, cut in halves and a few pistache nuts quartered. Flavor with
+nutmeg or vanilla as preferred.
+
+=Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding.=--Beat one cupful of butter to a cream.
+Add sugar gradually, two cupfuls in all, beating until very light. Add
+the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff dry foam. Arrange on a flat
+glass dish and grate a little nutmeg over it.
+
+=Molasses Sauce.=--To make molasses sauce, which is an excellent
+accompaniment to a plain rice or apple pudding, mix together one cupful
+of molasses, a tablespoonful of vinegar or the juice of one lemon, a
+saltspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of butter. Boil ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+MENUS AND INDEXES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+PAPER BAG MENUS FOR WINTER.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 1.
+
+ Grapefruit
+ Cereal
+ Sweetbreads with Bacon (Paper-bagged)
+ Scones (Paper-bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 2.
+
+ Oranges
+ Cereal
+ Spindled Oysters with Bacon (Paper-bagged)
+ Water Cress
+ Warmed over Rolls (Paper-bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 3.
+
+ Baked Apples (Paper-bagged)
+ Beefsteak Leftovers (Paper-bagged)
+ Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in paper-bag)
+ Scones (Paper-bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
+
+ Chicken Croquettes (Bagged)
+ Olives Pickles
+ Hot Biscuit (Bagged)
+ Gingerbread (Bagged)
+ Cheese
+ Tea.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
+
+ Oyster Bundles (Bagged)
+ Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Celery Olives
+ Pork Cake (Bagged)
+ Baked Quinces (Bagged)
+ Cocoa.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
+
+ Mock Fried Oysters (Bagged)
+ Pickles Celery
+ Sally Lunn (Bagged)
+ Sponge Cake (Bagged)
+ Baked Apples
+ Tea.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 1.
+
+ Grapefruit with Maraschino Cherries
+ Olives Pickles
+ Smelts Milanaise (Bagged)
+ Roast Chicken (Bagged) Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Currant or Cranberry Jelly (Bagged)
+ Baked Onions (Bagged) Lettuce Salad
+ Plum Pudding (Bagged) Hard Sauce
+ Demi-Tasse.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 2.
+
+ Grilled Sardines on Crackers (Bagged)
+ Ripe Olives Celery Salted Almonds (Cooked in Bag)
+ Ducks (Roasted in Bag)
+ Candied Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in Bag)
+ Cranberry Molds, Biscuit (Bagged)
+ Baked Apples Stuffed with Nuts (Bagged)
+ Served with Cream
+ Gingerbread (Bagged)
+ Tea.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 3.
+
+ Anchovy Canapés (Bagged)
+ Olives Celery
+ Roast Veal (Bagged)
+ Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Spinach (Paper Bagged)
+ Endive and Roquefort Cheese Salad
+ Cheese Straws (Paper-bagged)
+ Mince Pie (Paper Bagged)
+ Black Coffee.
+
+
+
+PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SPRING.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 1.
+
+ Baked Rhubarb and Raisins (Paper-bagged)
+ Cereal
+ Omelette (Paper-bagged)
+ Crisped Sweet Potatoes (Paper-bagged)
+ Rolls (Reheated in bag)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 2.
+
+ Strawberries au Naturel
+ Cereal
+ Eggs in Cocottes (Paper-bagged)
+ Scones (Paper-bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 3.
+
+ Baked Prunes (Paper-bagged)
+ Cereal
+ Sweetbreads (Bagged) Water Cress
+ Baking Powder Biscuit (Bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
+
+ Rhubarb Short Cake (Paper-bagged)
+ Cold Veal Loaf (Paper-bagged)
+ Chocolate Cake (Bagged)
+ Tea.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
+
+ Crab Meat au Gratin (Paper-bagged)
+ Biscuit (Paper-bagged)
+ Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake (Bagged)
+ Strawberries
+ Cocoa.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
+
+ Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged)
+ Biscuit (Bagged)
+ Pickles Olives
+ Good Friday Cake (Paper-bagged)
+ Custard
+ Tea.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 1.
+
+ Caviare Canapés (Bagged)
+ Salted Nuts (Bagged) Olives
+ Roast Leg of Lamb (Bagged) Mint Sauce
+ Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Stuffed Baked Onions (Bagged)
+ Rhubarb Pie (Bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 2.
+
+ Bouchees of Sardines (Bagged)
+ Deviled Almonds (Bagged) Radishes
+ Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce (Bagged)
+ Parsnips (Bagged)
+ Baked Potatoes without their Jackets (Bagged)
+ Lettuce Salad
+ Rhubarb Short Cake (Bagged)
+ Black Coffee.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 3.
+
+ Strawberries au Naturel on Orange Slices
+ Mussels au Gratin (Bagged)
+ Irish Stew (Bagged)
+ Scalloped Tomatoes (Bagged)
+ Lettuce Salad
+ Lemon Pie
+ Coffee.
+
+
+
+ PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SUMMER.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 1.
+
+ Raspberries
+ Cereal
+ Creamed Mushrooms (Bagged)
+ Toast (Bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 2.
+
+ Blackberries with Cream
+ Moulded Cereal
+ Crisped Bacon and Liver (Bagged)
+ Rolls (Bagged) Radishes
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 3.
+
+ Cantaloupe
+ Moulded Farina
+ Corn Fritters (Bagged)
+ Baked Egg In Tomato Cases (Bagged)
+ Scones (Bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
+
+ Peach Puree
+ Potato Salad
+ Veal Loaf (Bag-cooked)
+ Raspberry Short Cake (Bag-cooked) with Cream
+ Iced Tea.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
+
+ Cold Game Pie (Cooked in Bag)
+ Hot Biscuit (Cooked in Bag)
+ Oatmeal Crisps (Cooked in Bag)
+ Blackberries
+ Iced Tea.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
+
+ Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream (Bag-cooked)
+ Baked Lamb, Sweetbreads (Bag-cooked)
+ Bread and Butter
+ Lettuce Salad
+ Raspberries Potato Caramel Cake (Bag-cooked)
+ Iced Tea.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 1.
+
+ Canteloupes
+ Radishes Olives
+ Lamb Chops (Bagged) Mint Jelly
+ Green Peas (Bagged)
+ String Bean Salad
+ Lemon Ice
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 2.
+
+ Sardines and Lemon
+ Olives Radishes
+ Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms (Bagged)
+ Sweet Potatoes en Brochette (Paper-bagged)
+ Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing
+ Fruit Syllabub
+ Potato Chocolate Cake (Baked in Bag)
+ Iced Tea.
+
+
+ DINNER NO. 3.
+
+ Watermelon
+ Roast Lamb (Paper-bagged) Mint Sauce, Currant Jelly
+ New Potatoes (Bagged) Parsley Sauce
+ Oriental String Beans (Paper-bagged)
+ Cucumbers (Dressed with oil and vinegar)
+ Neufchatel Cheese and Wafers
+ Lemon Ice Chocolate Wafers (Bag-cooked)
+ Iced Tea with Lemon.
+
+
+
+ PAPER BAG MENUS FOR AUTUMN.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 1.
+
+ Peaches and Cream
+ Cereal
+ Fried Tomatoes (Paper-bagged) Cream Gravy
+ Blueberry Biscuit (Paper-bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 2.
+
+ Baked Apples (Bagged-cooked) with Cream
+ Cereal
+ Eggs Baked in Tomatoes (Paper-bagged)
+ Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Biscuit (Bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ BREAKFAST NO. 3.
+
+ Canteloupe
+ Ham with Apples (Bagged)
+ Sweet Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Corn Meal Gems (Bag-cooked)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
+
+ Cold Roast Chicken (Paper-bagged)
+ Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Tomatoes with Mayonnaise
+ Bread and Butter Folds
+ Baked Sweet Apples with Cream (Bagged)
+ Chocolate Cake (Bagged)
+ Tea.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
+
+ Corn Patties (Bagged)
+ Scalloped Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Olives Pickles
+ Farmer's Fruit Cake (Bagged)
+ Baked Quinces
+ Tea.
+
+
+ LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
+
+ Baked Potatoes en Surprise (Bagged)
+ Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged)
+ Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing
+ Baked Apples with Nuts (Bagged)
+ Gingerbread (Bagged)
+ Tea.
+
+
+ DINNER MENU NO. 1.
+
+ Canteloupe
+ Caviare Canapés (Cooked in Bag)
+ Sauer Braten with Carrots and Onions (Bagged)
+ Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Lima Beans (Bagged)
+ Sliced Tomatoes
+ Peach Short Cake (Paper-bagged)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ DINNER MENU NO. 2.
+
+ Caviare Canapés (Cooked in Bag)
+ Deviled Chestnuts (Paper-bagged)
+ Roast Pork (Bagged)
+ Sweet Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Baked Egg Plant (Bagged)
+ Cucumbers
+ Apple Pie (Paper-bagged) with Cream Cheese
+ Coffee.
+
+
+ DINNER MENU NO. 3.
+
+ Grapes and Peaches
+ Cream of Chestnut Soup with Croutons (Cooked in Bag)
+ Roast Duck (Bagged) Spiced Grapes
+ Sweet Potatoes (Bagged)
+ Baked Tomatoes (Bagged)
+ Grape Pie (Baked In Bag)
+ Coffee.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR BEGINNERS
+
+
+ Baked Potatoes in their Jackets Page 96
+ Baked Potatoes without Jackets " 96
+ Bacon and Apples " 70
+ Sausage and Apples " 72
+ Bacon and Bananas " 70
+ Sausage with Tomatoes " 73
+ Roast Loin of Pork " 72
+ Hot Cheese Canapés " 20
+ Caviare Canapés " 20
+ Cheese and Cracker Canapés " 20
+ Cracker Crisps " 21
+ Roast Clams " 26
+ Lobster in Shells " 29
+ Baked Blue Fish " 31
+ Filets of Flounder " 34
+ Lamb Chops " 67
+ Roast Leg of Lamb " 69
+ Roast Chicken " 50
+ Vealettes " 76
+ Baked Onions " 94
+ Sweet Potatoes and Bacon " 97
+ Spinach " 98
+ Peas " 94
+ Turnips " 99
+ Baking Powder Biscuits " 101
+ Baked Apples " 112
+ Cinnamon Apples " 113
+ Apple Dumplings " 112
+ Baked Pears " 115
+ Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake " 107
+ Oatmeal Cakes " 109
+ Pork Cake " 109
+ Mince Turnovers " 122
+ Individual Apple Tart " 120
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+ APPETIZERS AND RELISHES: PAGE
+
+ Bouchee Cases 18
+ Bonne Bouchee 19
+ Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise 19
+ Bouchees of Sardines 19
+ Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue 19
+ Canapés, The Making of 19
+ Anchovy Canapés 20
+ Caviare Canapés 20
+ Hot Cheese Canapés 20
+ Cheese and Crackers Canapés 20
+ Cheese Toast Sandwiches 20
+ Cracker Crisps 21
+ Deviled Crackers 21
+ Diables à Cheval 21
+ Nut Appetizers 21
+ Salted Almonds 21
+ Deviled Almonds 22
+ Roasted Chestnuts 22
+ Salted Chestnuts 22
+ Deviled Chestnuts 22
+
+
+ BEEF:
+
+ Bullock's Heart 61
+ Stewed Bullock's Heart 61
+ Filet of Beef 61
+ Hamburg Steak 62
+ Pot Roast 63
+ Rib Roast of Beef 63
+ Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag 64
+ Sauer Braten 64
+ Beef Steak 65
+ Toledo Beef Steak 65
+ Stuffed Roast Beef or "Mock Duck" 65
+
+
+ CAKES:
+
+ Cheese Cakes 104
+ Cinnamon Cake 105
+ English Fairy Cakes 105
+ Fruit Cookies 106
+ Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Ginger Bread 106
+ Good Friday Cake 106
+ German Honey Cakes 107
+ Pecan Kisses 107
+ Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake 107
+ Hickory Nut Macaroons 108
+ Walnut Macaroons 108
+ Maple Sugar Cake 108
+ Molasses Coffee Cake 108
+ Nut Cake 108
+ Oatmeal Cakes 109
+ German Peach Cake 109
+ Pork Cake 109
+ Potato Chocolate Cake 110
+ Potato Caramel Cake 110
+ Auburn Pound Cake 111
+ Raisin Nut Cake 111
+ Sour Cream Cake 111
+
+
+ CHEESE AND EGG DISHES:
+
+ Cheese Balls with Tomato Sauce 87
+ Cheese Fritters to Serve with Salad Course 87
+ Pepper Cheese 87
+ Cheese Ramekins 88
+ Cheese and Eggs 88
+ Baked Eggs 88
+ Baked Eggs with Cheese 88
+ A Paper Bag Omelette 88
+ Cheese Omelette 89
+ Swiss Eggs 89
+ Eggs in Tomato Cups 89
+
+
+ FISH (also see Shell Fish):
+
+ Filet of Bass 31
+ Baked Blue Fish 31
+ Bloaters, A Breakfast Dish of 31
+ Cat Fish 32
+ Codfish Cones 32
+ Codfish à la Crême 32
+ Eels, Paper Bagged 33
+ Flounder à la Meuniére 33
+ Filets of Flounder 34
+ Finnan Haddie 34
+ Fish Cakes 34
+ New England Fish Pie 35
+ Fish Soufflé 35
+ Planked Fish Bag Cooked 36
+ Halibut à la Poulette 37
+ Herring au Gratin 37
+ Herrings with Herbs 37
+ Kedgeree 37
+ Kippered Mackerel with Fine Herbs 38
+ Salmon Loaf 38
+ Scalloped Salmon 38
+ Salmon Soufflé 39
+ Baked Shad 39
+ Shad Roe 39
+ Smelts 40
+ Bagged Weak Fish 40
+ White Fish Planked 41
+
+
+ FISH SAUCE (also see Sauces and Gravies):
+
+ Anchovy Sauce 42
+ Quick Bearnaise Sauce 42
+ Bearnaise Sauce 42
+ Brown Sauce 43
+ Curry Sauce 43
+ Egg Sauce 43
+ Sauce Hollandaise 43
+ Egg Sauce Made from the Hollandaise 44
+ Lobster Sauce 44
+ Maitre d'Hotel Butter 44
+ Sauce for Broiled Shad à la Murray 45
+ Parsley Butter 45
+ Sauce Tartare 45
+
+
+ FRUITS:
+
+ Baked Apples 112
+ Baked Apple Dumplings 112
+ Cold Baked Apples with Rum 112
+ Cinnamon Apples 113
+ Apples Stuffed with Figs 113
+ Baked Apples and Nuts 113
+ Raisin Apples 114
+ Baked Apple Sauce 114
+ Baked Bananas 114
+ Stuffed Dates 114
+ Baked Gooseberries 114
+ Baked Peaches 114
+ Baked Pears 115
+ Baked Plums 115
+ Baked Quinces 115
+ Baked Raisins 115
+ Chestnut Patties 115
+
+
+ GAME (see Poultry and Game):
+
+
+ LAMB AND MUTTON:
+
+ Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce 67
+ Lamb Chops 67
+ Lamb or Mutton Cutlets with Tomatoes 67
+ Lamb Fry 68
+ Lamb's Kidney 68
+ Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider 68
+ Mutton Chops and Sausage 68
+ Ragout of Lamb 68
+ Roast Leg of Lamb 69
+ A Genuine Irish Stew 69
+
+
+ PASTRY:
+
+ Plain Pie Crust 116
+ Apple Pie 117
+ Deep Apple Pie with Cream Cheese 117
+ Cranberry Pie 118
+ Cranberry and Raisin Pie 118
+ Lemon Pie 118
+ Mince Pie 118
+ Mock Mince Pie 119
+ Pecan Pie with One Crust 119
+ Real Old-Fashioned Pumpkin Pie 119
+ Individual English Apple Tart 120
+ Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets 121
+ Apple and Cheese Turnovers 121
+ Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers 122
+ Mince Turnovers 122
+
+
+ PORK IN VARIED FORMS:
+
+ Bacon and Apples 70
+ Bacon and Bananas 70
+ Bacon and Calf's Liver 70
+ Baked Pork Chops 70
+ Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes 70
+ Ham and Scalloped Potatoes 71
+ Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops 71
+ Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder 72
+ Roast Loin of Pork 72
+ Roast Spare-Rib 72
+ Baked Sausage with Apples 72
+ Baked Sausage and Potato 72
+ Baked Sausage with Toast 73
+ Baked Sausage with Tomatoes 73
+ Tenderloin of Pork 73
+
+
+ POULTRY AND GAME:
+
+ Capon 47
+ Chicken with Parsnips 48
+ Chicken à la Baltimore 48
+ Chicken Croquettes 48
+ Paper Bagged Chicken 49
+ Chicken Pie 49
+ Paste for Chicken Pie 50
+ Chicken Rissoles 50
+ Roast Chicken 50
+ Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms 50
+ Smothered Chicken 51
+ Ducks with Banana Dressing 51
+ Canvas Backs 51
+ Chicken, Italian Style 52
+ Roast Wild Duck 52
+ Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style 53
+ Frogs' Legs 53
+ Paper Bag Roast Goose 53
+ Sage and Potato Stuffing 54
+ Bag Roasted Young Guinea Fowl 54
+ Bag Broiled Young Guinea Hen 55
+ Quail 55
+ Stuffed Quail 56
+ Rabbit Cookery 56
+ Barbecued Rabbit 56
+ Roast Rabbit 57
+ Stewed Rabbit 57
+ Reed Birds 58
+ Squab 58
+ Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style) 58
+ Turkey à la Bonham 59
+ Venison 60
+ Venison Steak 60
+
+
+ PUDDINGS AND PUDDING SAUCES:
+
+ Almond Pudding 125
+ Apple and Fig Pudding 125
+ Banana Pudding 125
+ Farmer's Plum Pudding 126
+ Peach Betty 126
+ Peach Cobbler 126
+ Peach Roly-Poly 127
+ Plum Roly-Poly 127
+ Rye Bread Pudding 127
+ Tapioca Apple Pudding 128
+ A White Plum Pudding 128
+ Caramel Sauce 128
+ Cornstarch Pudding Sauce 129
+ Cream Sauce 129
+ Cream Sauce à la Hotel Astor 129
+ Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding 129
+ Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding 129
+ Molasses Sauce 130
+
+
+ RECOOKED DISHES:
+
+ Beef Steak Left Overs 83
+ Chicken Croquettes 83
+ Mock Fried Oysters 84
+ Turkey Croquettes 84
+ Edinboro Hot Pot 84
+ Individual Meat Pies 85
+ English Pasties 85
+ Olla Podrida Pie 85
+ Oyster Bundles 86
+
+ SAUCES AND GRAVIES:
+ Bignon's Sauce 78
+ Bread Sauce 78
+ Brown Sauce 78
+ Celery Sauce 79
+ Currant Jelly Sauce 79
+ Curry Sauce 79
+ Hollandaise Sauce 79
+ Horseradish Sauce 80
+ Maitre d'Hotel Butter 80
+ Mexican Sauce 80
+ Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb 80
+ French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style 81
+ Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat 81
+ Onion Sauce 81
+ Spanish Sauce 81
+ Thick Tomato Sauce 82
+ Sauce Tartare 82
+
+
+ SHELL FISH:
+
+ Clam Pies 26
+ Roast Clams 26
+ Crabs, Soft and Hard 26
+ Creamed Crabs 27
+ Crabs Deviled à la William Penn 27
+ Crab Meat au Gratin 27
+ Crab Flakes au Gratin 28
+ Lobster Chops 28
+ Coquilles of Lobster 28
+ Lobster in Shells 29
+ Mussels au Gratin 29
+ Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style) 29
+ Spindled Oysters and Bacon 30
+
+
+ SHORT CAKES:
+
+ Banana Short Cakes 123
+ Peach Short Cake 123
+ Rhubarb Short Cake 124
+ Old-Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake 124
+
+
+ SOUP ACCESSORIES:
+
+ Bread Sticks 23
+ Croutons Toasted 23
+ Crisped Crackers 23
+ Egg Balls 23
+ Forcemeat Balls, or Quenelles 24
+
+
+ VEAL:
+
+ Baked Calf's Liver 74
+ Calves' Brains in Tempting but Inexpensive
+ Ways 74
+ Breaded Brains 74
+ Sweetbreads 75
+ Baked Sweetbreads 75
+ Sweetbreads with Bacon 75
+ Larded Sweetbreads 75
+ Sweetbreads Straight 76
+ Vealettes 76
+ Veal Loaf 76
+ Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised 77
+
+
+ VEGETABLES:
+
+ Asparagus 90
+ Asparagus with Cheese 90
+ Lima Beans 90
+ String Beans, Oriental Style 91
+ Boston Baked Bean Cakes 91
+ Bean Croquettes 91
+ German Cabbage 92
+ Cabbage Hot Slaw 92
+ Carrots 92
+ Carrot Saute 92
+ Dolmas 99
+ Stuffed Eggplant 93
+ Lentil Cutlets 93
+ Mushrooms 93
+ Baked Onions 94
+ Stuffed Baked Onions 94
+ Onions with Cheese 94
+ Parsnips 94
+ Green Peas 94
+ Stuffed Peppers 95
+ Peppers with Cream Fish 96
+ Baked Irish Potatoes 96
+ Baked Potatoes without their Coats or Jackets 96
+ Potatoes en Surprise 96
+ Potatoes Farci 97
+ Sauer Kraut 97
+ Waldorf Sauer Kraut 97
+ Sweet Potatoes and Bacon 97
+ Sweet Potato Straws 98
+ Sweet Potato en Brochette 98
+ Spinach 98
+ Summer Squash in Butter 98
+ Stuffed Summer Squash 98
+ Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream 98
+ Turnips 99
+ Turnip Balls 99
+ Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas 99
+
+
+ WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC.:
+
+ Baking Powder Bread 101
+ Bannocks 101
+ Baking Powder Biscuits 101
+ Egg Biscuits 102
+ Maple Biscuits 102
+ Nut Biscuits 102
+ Raisin Biscuits 103
+ Hot Cross Buns 103
+ Warmed Over Breads 103
+
+
+
+
+YOU WILL FIND THE NEW COOKERY EASY _if you use only_ CONTINENTAL COOKERY
+BAGS
+
+
+MADE expressly for Paper Bag Cooking.
+
+The perfected product of much investigation and many experiments.
+
+
+CONTINENTAL Cookery Bags are White, Sanitary, Strong, Waterproof,
+Greaseproof and entirely Odorless. In every way they are Safe and
+Suitable.
+
+Packages of 30 Bags, Conveniently Assorted, with Special Clips and Book
+of Directions and Recipes, 25c. A variety of sizes at the same price per
+package.
+
+ CONTINENTAL PAPER BAG CO.
+ WHITEHALL BUILDING, NEW YORK
+
+
+
+
+OVAL WOOD Cookery Dishes
+
+Should be Used in All Paper Bag Cooking
+
+_They are as Important as the Bags_
+
+Because they conserve all the delicate meat and vegetable juices, adding
+a savory flavor to everything cooked in them.
+
+With our Cookery Dishes you can give to all meats the delicious taste
+which has heretofore been secured only by planking steaks and fish.
+
+The sweet wood--we use sugar-maple only--is always fresh, giving an
+effect that cannot be maintained permanently by the ordinary plank.
+
+Everything that can be cooked in a paper bag tastes better if you use
+our Cookery Dishes also.
+
+ASK YOUR DEALER ABOUT THEM
+
+They are packed in cartons suitable for all purposes, assuring the
+delivery of clean and sanitary dishes in your kitchen.
+
+ THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY
+ Delta, Ohio
+ 127 Franklin St., New York 436 Gravier St., New Orleans
+ Manufacturers of "O.W.D." Butter Dishes,
+ Picnic Plates, and Clothes Pins
+
+
+
+
+Refined Vegetable Oil
+
+Is recommended by physicians and culinary experts in place of butter and
+animal fats for all cooking; it is more healthful and economical.
+
+Wesson Snowdrift Oil The Best Refined Vegetable Oil Is Unexcelled for
+Greasing Paper Bags
+
+You can buy many different kinds of vegetable oils, but you can't get
+anything equal to Wesson Snowdrift Oil. It is refined by the Wesson
+process (the only process yet discovered for properly refining vegetable
+oils) and we control that process. No other manufacturer can use it.
+¶Wesson Snowdrift Oil has just the right smoothness and consistency to
+make rich and delicious salad dressings.
+
+AT ALL GROCERS
+
+On request, we will mail you our Wesson Snowdrift Oil book of 150
+recipes. Please mention your grocer's name.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+ The Southern Cotton Oil Company
+ Dept. B
+ _24 Broad Street, New York, N. Y._
+
+ Savannah Chicago New Orleans
+ San Francisco
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _This illustration shows a bag properly closed with
+clips._]
+
+The Cookery Bag Clip
+
+is the only _successful_ device for effectually closing Paper Cookery
+Bags
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The projecting lips permit the clips to slip on to the bags easily; the
+free ends projecting outwardly prevent the clips slipping off the bag
+when in use.
+
+ Made by
+ THE OAKVILLE COMPANY
+ Waterbury, Conn.
+
+Makers of _Sevran Pins_ and the _Clinton_ and _Damascus_ Safety Pins.
+
+
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Obvious punctuation errors were corrected.
+
+Page 25, "amonnia" changed to "ammonia" (as the ammonia used)
+
+Page 26, "may" changed to "many" (in as many small)
+
+Page 30, "sault" changed to "salt" (with salt, pepper and butter)
+
+Page 35, "sesasoned" changed to "seasoned" (mashed potato well seasoned)
+
+Page 61, "5-8" and "3-8" changed to "5/8" and "3/8" respectively (5/8 of
+an inch thick) (about 3/8 of an inch)
+
+Page 63, "marcaroni" changed to "macaroni" (a bit of macaroni)
+
+Page 74, "over" changed to "oven" (hour in a hot oven)
+
+Page 80, "floor" changed to "flour" (of flour. Stir and)
+
+Page 81, "desertspoonful" changed to "dessertspoonful" (dessertspoonful
+Worcestershire Sauce)
+
+Page 90, "Chesse" changed to "Cheese" (Asparagus With Cheese)
+
+Page 108, "spoonsfuls" changed to "spoonfuls" (spoonfuls into a)
+
+Page 116, "CAPTER" changed to "CHAPTER" (CHAPTER XXI)
+
+Page 127, "sweeteend" changed to "sweetened" (the extra juice sweetened)
+
+Page 151, "Balitmore" changed to "Balitmore" (Chicken à la Baltimore)
+
+Page 152, "SAUCEES" changed to "SAUCES" (PUDDINGS AND PUDDING SAUCES)
+
+Page 155, "Waldrof" changed to "Waldorf" (Waldorf Sauer Kraut)
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42955 ***