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authornfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>2025-03-07 20:45:31 -0800
committernfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>2025-03-07 20:45:31 -0800
commit92670203a822c45365edc9fa0d9a71095c412399 (patch)
tree23e60e9cdbf39809c47dc34219b5e580c696ac27 /42954-h
parent35715cf4527648f664eab5f0a6fca94f9a723807 (diff)
Add files from ibiblio as of 2025-03-07 20:45:31HEADmain
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diff --git a/42954-h/42954-h.htm b/42954-h/42954-h.htm
index 4ad5c5e..b490863 100644
--- a/42954-h/42954-h.htm
+++ b/42954-h/42954-h.htm
@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
<head>
-<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" />
<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Brittany, by Mortimer Menpes and Dorothy Menpes</title>
<style type="text/css">
@@ -160,26 +160,10 @@ td { padding-right: .5em;
</style>
</head>
<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42954 ***</div>
<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Brittany, by Mortimer Menpes and Dorothy
Menpes, Illustrated by Mortimer Menpes</h1>
-<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at <a
-href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p>
-<p>Title: Brittany</p>
-<p>Author: Mortimer Menpes and Dorothy Menpes</p>
-<p>Release Date: June 15, 2013 [eBook #42954]</p>
-<p>Language: English</p>
-<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
-<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY***</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<h4 class="center">E-text prepared by Greg Bergquist, Melissa McDaniel,<br />
- and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
- (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
- from page images generously made available by<br />
- Internet Archive/American Libraries<br />
- (<a href="http://archive.org/details/americana">http://archive.org/details/americana</a>)</h4>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
<tr>
@@ -242,13 +226,13 @@ ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK<br />
</div>
<div class="title_page p6">
-<p><span class="b13">BRITTANY · BY</span><br />
+<p><span class="b13">BRITTANY · BY</span><br />
MORTIMER MENPES<br />
TEXT BY DOROTHY<br />
-MENPES · PUBLISHED<br />
+MENPES · PUBLISHED<br />
BY ADAM &amp; CHARLES<br />
-BLACK · SOHO SQUARE<br />
-LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
+BLACK · SOHO SQUARE<br />
+LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</div>
<div class="figcenter p2">
<img src="images/illo_007.jpg" width="59" height="56" alt="Logo" />
@@ -269,7 +253,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">I.</td>
-<td><span class="smcap">Douarnénez</span></td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Douarnénez</span></td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -279,7 +263,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">III.</td>
-<td><span class="smcap">Vitré</span></td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Vitré</span></td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -329,7 +313,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">XIII.</td>
-<td><span class="smcap">Quimperlé</span></td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Quimperlé</span></td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -359,7 +343,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">XIX.</td>
-<td><span class="smcap">Château des Rochers</span></td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Château des Rochers</span></td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -395,7 +379,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">3.</td>
-<td>Grandmère</td>
+<td>Grandmère</td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_027">6</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -430,7 +414,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">10.</td>
-<td>Mediæval Houses, Vitré</td>
+<td>Mediæval Houses, Vitré</td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_077">28</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -445,7 +429,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">13.</td>
-<td>Père Louis</td>
+<td>Père Louis</td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_097">36</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -455,7 +439,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">15.</td>
-<td>La Vieille Mère Perot</td>
+<td>La Vieille Mère Perot</td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_113">44</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -521,7 +505,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">28.</td>
-<td>Débit de Boissons</td>
+<td>Débit de Boissons</td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_215">94</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -581,7 +565,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">40.</td>
-<td>Mediæval House at Morlaix</td>
+<td>Mediæval House at Morlaix</td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_301">132</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -692,7 +676,7 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdr">62.</td>
-<td>Déjeuner</td>
+<td>Déjeuner</td>
<td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_473">216</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
@@ -766,24 +750,24 @@ LONDON · W · MCMXII.</p>
<p class="center p6 b20">BRITTANY</p>
<h2 class="chap1"><span class="b12">CHAPTER I</span><br />
-DOUARNÉNEZ</h2>
+DOUARNÉNEZ</h2>
<p>The gray and somewhat uninteresting village of
-Douarnénez undergoes a change when the fishing-boats
+Douarnénez undergoes a change when the fishing-boats
come home. Even with your eyes shut,
you would soon know of the advent of the fishermen
by the downward clatter of myriads of sabots
through the badly-paved steep streets, gathering in
volume and rapidity with each succeeding minute.
The village has been thoroughly wakened up.
-Douarnénez is the headquarters of the sardine
+Douarnénez is the headquarters of the sardine
fishery, and the home-coming of the sardine boats
is a matter of no little importance. The 9,000
inhabitants of the place are all given up to this industry.
Prosperity, or adversity, depends upon the
faithfulness, or the fickleness, of the little silver fish
in visiting their shores. Not long ago the sardines
-forsook Douarnénez, and great was the desolation
+forsook Douarnénez, and great was the desolation
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span>
and despair which settled upon the people. However,
the season this year is good, and the people
@@ -836,7 +820,7 @@ London or Parisian dressmaker inspiration for a
dozen gowns, which, if properly adapted, would
take the whole of the fashionable world by storm!
You see blue woollen jerseys faded into greens
-and yellows, red <i>bérets</i> wondrously shaded in tones
+and yellows, red <i>bérets</i> wondrously shaded in tones
of vermilion and salmon. From almost every
window tarpaulin and yellow oilskin trousers hang
drying; every woman in the place is busily
@@ -846,7 +830,7 @@ employed.</p>
doorways when passing, subjects worthy of Peter
de Hooch&mdash;a young girl in the white-winged cap
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span>
-and red crossway shawl of Douarnénez cutting up
+and red crossway shawl of Douarnénez cutting up
squares of cork against the rich dark background
of her home, in which glistening brass, polished
oak, blue-and-white china, and a redly burning
@@ -864,7 +848,7 @@ themselves about their work.</p>
<p>It is impossible to describe one's feelings when,
after descending the steep cobbled street, one first
-catches sight of the sea at Douarnénez. One can
+catches sight of the sea at Douarnénez. One can
only stand stock-still for a moment and draw in a
deep breath of astonishment and fulfilment of hopes.</p>
@@ -881,7 +865,7 @@ delicacy of the background.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_027" id="illo_027"></a>
<img src="images/illo_027.jpg" width="438" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">GRANDMÈRE</p>
+<p class="caption">GRANDMÈRE</p>
</div>
<p>Over the gray-blue sea are scudding myriads of
brown, double-winged boats, all making for the
@@ -892,7 +876,7 @@ yellow-green that it almost sets your teeth on
edge.</p>
<p>Set down in mere words, this description can
-convey no impression of the Bay of Douarnénez
+convey no impression of the Bay of Douarnénez
as I saw it that balmy autumn afternoon. My pen
is clogged; it refuses to interpret my thoughts. It
was a scene that I shall never forget. As the
@@ -923,7 +907,7 @@ shape of their heads. Many a time when the cornflower-blue
sea has turned to sullen black, and the
balmy air is alive with flying foam and roaring
winds, such women must wait in vain on the quay
-at Douarnénez for their men-folk.</p>
+at Douarnénez for their men-folk.</p>
<p>The sailor's life is a hard one in Brittany, exposed
as he is in his small boat to the fearful storms of the
@@ -963,7 +947,7 @@ their places before dropping anchor and remaining
stationary. Others are scudding rapidly over the
smooth blue sea, ruffling it up in white foam at
their bows. Scores of men in rich brown wallflower-hued
-clothes and dark-blue <i>bérets</i> are as busy as
+clothes and dark-blue <i>bérets</i> are as busy as
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span>
bees among the sails and cordage; others are walking
rapidly to and fro, with round brown baskets,
@@ -980,7 +964,7 @@ for in instalments.</p>
<p>Above the quay, leaning over the stone parapet,
are scores of girls, come from their homes just as
they were, some with their work and some with
-their <i>goûté</i> (bread and chocolate or an apple).
+their <i>goûté</i> (bread and chocolate or an apple).
They have come to watch the entrance of the
fishing fleet: comely, fresh-complexioned women,
in shawls and aprons of every colour&mdash;some blue,
@@ -1035,7 +1019,7 @@ Two by two the children were tramping through
the steep gray streets on their way to school&mdash;small
dirty-faced cherubs, under tangled mops of
fair hair (one sees the loveliest red-gold and yellow-gold
-hair in Douarnénez), busily munching their
+hair in Douarnénez), busily munching their
breakfasts of bread and apples, many of them just
able to toddle. 'Donne la main a ta s&oelig;ur,
George,' I heard a shrill voice exclaim from a
@@ -1102,7 +1086,7 @@ proprietors of the hotel, who made us exceedingly
comfortable. To our surprise, we discovered that
the colony of painters had been reduced to one
lady artist; but it was evident, from the pictures
-on the panels of the <i>salle-à-manger</i>, that many
+on the panels of the <i>salle-à-manger</i>, that many
artists had stayed in the hotel during the summer.</p>
<p>Rochefort by morning light was quite a surprise.
@@ -1149,7 +1133,7 @@ terra-cotta pitcher full of water poised on her head,
is toiling up the steps, the shortest way to the
town, which, save for the singing of the birds in
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span>
-the old château garden, the bleating of lambs on
+the old château garden, the bleating of lambs on
the hillside, and the chopping of a wood-cutter,
is absolutely silent. One descends into a valley
shut in by rugged blue-gray mountains, for all the
@@ -1214,10 +1198,10 @@ It is market day, and everyone is light-hearted and
happy. The men whistle gaily on their way; the
women's tongues wag briskly over their purchases;
even the birds, forgetful of the coming winter, are
-bursting their throats with song. In the château
+bursting their throats with song. In the château
garden the birds sing loudest of all, and the flowers
bloom their best. It is a beautiful old place, the
-château of Rochefort. Very little of the ruin is
+château of Rochefort. Very little of the ruin is
left standing; but the grounds occupy an immense
area, and are enclosed by great high walls. Where
the old kitchen once stood an American has built a
@@ -1228,7 +1212,7 @@ one cannot but feel that a modern house is somewhat
incongruous amid such historic surroundings.
The old avenue leading to the front door
still exists; also there are some apple-trees and
-ancient farm-buildings. The château has been
+ancient farm-buildings. The château has been
built in the most beautiful situation possible, high
above the town, on a kind of tableland, from which
one can look down to the valley and the encircling
@@ -1285,7 +1269,7 @@ reality, taking active part in their daily lives. For
older children, boys especially, there is St. Antoine
to admire and imitate&mdash;St. Antoine the hermit,
with his staff and his book, the man with the
-strong, good face. Françoise d'Amboise, a pure,
+strong, good face. Françoise d'Amboise, a pure,
sweet saint in the habit of a nun, her arms full of
lilies, appeals to the hearts and imaginations of all
young girls. I believe in the efficacy of these figures
@@ -1380,7 +1364,7 @@ polished tables for the evening meal, and the bright
pewter plates have been brought down from the
dresser. Lulu has been sent out to bring home
bread for supper. 'Va, ma petite Lulu,' says
-her mother, 'dépêche toi.' And the small fat
+her mother, 'dépêche toi.' And the small fat
bundle in the check pinafore toddles hastily down
the stone steps on chubby legs.
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span></p>
@@ -1404,27 +1388,27 @@ like sentinels.
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_077" id="illo_077"></a>
<img src="images/illo_077.jpg" width="438" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MEDIÆVAL HOUSES, VITRÉ</p>
+<p class="caption">MEDIÆVAL HOUSES, VITRÉ</p>
</div>
<h2><span class="b12">CHAPTER III</span><br />
-VITRÉ</h2>
+VITRÉ</h2>
-<p>For the etcher, the painter, the archæologist, and
-the sculptor, Vitré is an ideal town. To the
-archæologist it is an ever-open page from the
+<p>For the etcher, the painter, the archæologist, and
+the sculptor, Vitré is an ideal town. To the
+archæologist it is an ever-open page from the
Middle Ages, an almost complete relic of that
period, taking one back with a strange force and
realism three hundred years and more. Time has
-dealt tenderly with Vitré. The slanting, irregular
+dealt tenderly with Vitré. The slanting, irregular
houses, leaning one against the other, as if for
mutual support, stand as by a miracle.</p>
-<p>Wandering through Vitré, one seems to be
+<p>Wandering through Vitré, one seems to be
visiting a wonderful and perfect museum, such as
-must needs please even the exacting, the blasé,
+must needs please even the exacting, the blasé,
and the indifferent. You are met at every turn
-by the works of the ancients in all their naïve
+by the works of the ancients in all their naïve
purity and simplicity, many of the houses having
been built in the first half of the seventeenth
century.</p>
@@ -1447,16 +1431,16 @@ marvels of carpentry and stone-work, such as
have withstood the onslaught of time and held
their own.</p>
-<p>When you first arrive at Vitré, at the
+<p>When you first arrive at Vitré, at the
crowded, bustling station, surrounded by the most
modern of houses and hotels, and faced by the
newest of fountains, disappointment is acute.
-If you were to leave Vitré next morning, never
+If you were to leave Vitré next morning, never
having penetrated into the town, you would carry
away a very feeble and uninteresting impression;
but, having entered the town, and discovered
those grand old streets&mdash;the Baudrarie, the
-Poterie, and the Nôtre Dame, among many
+Poterie, and the Nôtre Dame, among many
others&mdash;poet, painter, sculptor, man of business
or of letters, whoever you may be, you cannot
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span>
@@ -1479,7 +1463,7 @@ over the other; houses so old that paint and
plaster will stay on them no longer; houses with
pointed roofs; houses with square roofs thrust
forward into the street, spotted by yellow moss;
-houses the façades of which are covered with scaly
+houses the façades of which are covered with scaly
gray tiles, glistening in the sun like a knight's
armour. These are placed in various patterns
according to the taste and fantasy of the architect:
@@ -1560,8 +1544,8 @@ doorways are of heaviest oak, crowned with coats
of arms sculptured in stone. Large families of
dirty children now live in these lordly domains.</p>
-<p>One longs in Vitré, above all other places, to
-paint, or, rather, to etch. Vitré is made for the
+<p>One longs in Vitré, above all other places, to
+paint, or, rather, to etch. Vitré is made for the
etcher; endless and wondrous are the subjects for
his needle. Here, in a markedly time-worn street,
are a dozen or more pictures awaiting him&mdash;a doorway
@@ -1607,18 +1591,18 @@ modernity to destroy.</p>
<p>Madonnas, crucifixes, pictures of saints in glass
cases, and statuettes of the Virgin, meet you at
-every turn in Vitré, for the inhabitants are proverbially
+every turn in Vitré, for the inhabitants are proverbially
a religious people. A superstitious yet
guilty conscience would have a trying time in
-Vitré. In entering a shop, St. Joseph peers down
+Vitré. In entering a shop, St. Joseph peers down
upon you from a niche above the portal; at every
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span>
street corner, in every market, and in all kinds
of quaint and unexpected places, saints and angels
look out at you.</p>
-<p>The beautiful old cathedral, Nôtre Dame de
-Vitré, is one of the purest remaining productions
+<p>The beautiful old cathedral, Nôtre Dame de
+Vitré, is one of the purest remaining productions
of the decadent Gothic art in Brittany, and one of
the finest. Several times the grand old edifice
has been enlarged and altered, and the changes
@@ -1642,11 +1626,11 @@ pulpit, ornamented with graceful points, approached
from the church by a slit in the wall. It was
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span>
constructed to combat the Calvinistic party, so
-powerful in Vitré at one time. One can easily
+powerful in Vitré at one time. One can easily
imagine the seething crowd in the square below&mdash;the
sea of pale, passionate, upturned faces. It must
have presented much the same picture then as it
-does now, this cathedral square in Vitré&mdash;save for
+does now, this cathedral square in Vitré&mdash;save for
the people;&mdash;for there are still standing, facing the
pulpit, and not a hundred paces from it, a row of
ancient houses that existed in those very riotous
@@ -1665,7 +1649,7 @@ it could speak!</p>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_097" id="illo_097"></a>
<img src="images/illo_097.jpg" width="486" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">PÈRE LOUIS</p>
+<p class="caption">PÈRE LOUIS</p>
</div>
<p>Convent-bred girls in a long line are filing into
church through the western door&mdash;meek-faced little
@@ -1704,34 +1688,34 @@ the glare and glamour of the outside world, cannot
but bring peace and rest and a soothing influence
to even the most unquiet soul.</p>
-<p>The château of Vitré is an even older building
+<p>The château of Vitré is an even older building
than the cathedral. It has lived bravely through
the ages, suffering little from the march of time:
a noble edifice, huge and massive, with its high
-towers, its châtelet, and its slate roofs. Just out of
+towers, its châtelet, and its slate roofs. Just out of
the dark, narrow, cramped old streets, you are
astonished to emerge suddenly on a large open
space, and to be confronted by this massive
-château, well preserved and looking almost new.
+château, well preserved and looking almost new.
As a matter of fact, its foundation dates back as
far as the eleventh century, although four hundred
years ago it was almost entirely reconstructed.
-Parts of the château are crumbling to decay; but
+Parts of the château are crumbling to decay; but
the principal mass, consisting of the towers and
-châtelet, is marvellously preserved. It still keeps
+châtelet, is marvellously preserved. It still keeps
a brave front, though the walls and many of the
castle keeps and fortresses are tottering to ruin.
-Many a shock and many a siege has the old château
+Many a shock and many a siege has the old château
withstood; but now its fighting days are over. The
frogs sing no longer in the moat through the beautiful
summer nights; the sentinel's box is empty;
and in the courtyards, instead of clanking swords
and spurred heels, the peaceful step of the tourist
-alone resounds. The château has rendered a long
+alone resounds. The château has rendered a long
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span>
and loyal service, and to-day as a reward enjoys
a glorious repose. To visit the castle, you pass
-over a draw-bridge giving entrance to the châtelet,
+over a draw-bridge giving entrance to the châtelet,
and no sooner have you set foot on it than the
concierge emerges from a little room in the tower
dedicated to the service of the lodge-holder.</p>
@@ -1802,7 +1786,7 @@ his coat,&mdash;his lady's colour&mdash;set out to fight and
conquer. But, alas! no chronicle has been left of
the deeds of the castle prisoners. Any romantic
stories that one may conjure to one's mind in
-the atmosphere of the château can be but the
+the atmosphere of the château can be but the
airiest fabrics of a dream.</p>
<p>At the top of the spiral staircase is a rounded
@@ -1812,7 +1796,7 @@ dizzy, view over town and country. It was
from this that the archers shot their arrows upon
the enemy; and very deadly their aim must have
been, for nothing could be more commanding as
-regards position than the château of Vitré. Also,
+regards position than the château of Vitré. Also,
in the floor of the gallery, round the outer edge, are
large holes, down which the besieged threw great
blocks of stone, boiling tar, and projectiles of all
@@ -1820,13 +1804,13 @@ kinds, which must have fallen with tremendous
violence on the assailants.
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span></p>
-<p>Wherever one goes in Vitré one sees the fine old
-château, forming a magnificent background to every
+<p>Wherever one goes in Vitré one sees the fine old
+château, forming a magnificent background to every
picture, with its grand ivy-mantled towers and its
huge battlemented walls, belittling everything
-round it. Unlike most French châteaus, more or
+round it. Unlike most French châteaus, more or
less showy and toy-like in design, the castle of
-Vitré is built on solid rock, and lifted high above
+Vitré is built on solid rock, and lifted high above
the town in a noble, irresistible style, with walls of
immense thickness, and lofty beyond compare.
All that is grandest and most beautiful in Nature
@@ -1870,7 +1854,7 @@ fine old sculptured doorway!</p>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_113" id="illo_113"></a>
<img src="images/illo_113.jpg" width="390" height="550" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">LA VIEILLE MÈRE PEROT</p>
+<p class="caption">LA VIEILLE MÈRE PEROT</p>
</div>
<p>There are in certain parts of the town remains
of the ancient moat. Sometimes it is a mere
@@ -1893,7 +1877,7 @@ into the water seems imminent.</p>
steeply. This is a very poor quarter indeed. The
houses are old, blackened, decayed, much-patched
and renovated. Yet the place is extremely picturesque;
-in fact, I know no part of Vitré that
+in fact, I know no part of Vitré that
is not.</p>
<p>At any moment, in any street, you can stop
@@ -1927,7 +1911,7 @@ By the sound one might fancy one's self for the
moment in an African jungle rather than in a
Breton village.</p>
-<p>The streets of Vitré are remarkable for their
+<p>The streets of Vitré are remarkable for their
flowers. Wherever you may look you will see pots
of flowers and trailing greenery, relieving with their
bright fresh colouring the time-worn houses of
@@ -1939,11 +1923,11 @@ pots of geranium and convolvulus.</p>
<p>It is impossible in mere words to convey any
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span>
-real impression of the fine old town of Vitré: only
+real impression of the fine old town of Vitré: only
the etcher and the painter can adequately depict
it. The grand old town will soon be of the past.
Every day, every hour, its walls are decaying,
-crumbling; and before long Vitré will be no more
+crumbling; and before long Vitré will be no more
than a memory.
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a></span>
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a></span></p>
@@ -1979,7 +1963,7 @@ as at Vannes. At one corner the houses leant
forward across the street, and literally rested one
on the top of the other. These were only the upper
stories; below were up-to-date jewellers and
-<i>pâtisseries</i>, with newly-painted signs in black and
+<i>pâtisseries</i>, with newly-painted signs in black and
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span>
gold. In the middle of these houses, cramped and
crowded and hustled by them, stood the cathedral.
@@ -2111,7 +2095,7 @@ solide!' cried the merchant, until you would think
he must grow hoarse. 'This is the chance of a
lifetime,' he declared: 'a beautiful half-dozen like
this. C'est tout ce qu'il y a de plus joli et solide.
-Voyez la beauté et la qualité de cette merchandise.
+Voyez la beauté et la qualité de cette merchandise.
C'est une occasion que vous ne verrez pas tous les
jours.'</p>
@@ -2186,11 +2170,11 @@ voice. He called the people to him; he
called them by name&mdash;whether it was the right
one or not did not matter: it was sufficient to
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span>
-arrest their attention. 'Dépêchons nous. Here,
+arrest their attention. 'Dépêchons nous. Here,
Lucien; here, Jeanne; here, Babette; here, my
-pigeon. Dépêchons nous, dépêchons nous!' he cried.
+pigeon. Dépêchons nous, dépêchons nous!' he cried.
'Que est ce qu'il y a? personne en veux plus?
-Mais c'est épatant. Je suis honteux de vous en dire
+Mais c'est épatant. Je suis honteux de vous en dire
le prix. Flannel! the very thing for your head,
madam,&mdash;nothing softer, nothing finer. How many
yards?&mdash;one, two, three? There we are!' and, with
@@ -2209,7 +2193,7 @@ at once was simply marvellous.</p>
to a young Breton woman. 'Pink flannel? Here
you are&mdash;a superb article, the very thing for
nightgowns.' Then to a man: 'Trousering, my
-lord? Certainly. Touchez moi ça. Isn't that
+lord? Certainly. Touchez moi ça. Isn't that
marvellous? Isn't that quality if you like? Ah!
but I am ashamed to tell you the price. You will
be indeed beautiful in this to-morrow.'</p>
@@ -2250,7 +2234,7 @@ barrows.</p>
<img src="images/illo_145.jpg" width="550" height="438" alt="" />
<p class="caption">A CATTLE-MARKET</p>
</div>
-<p>Outside almost every drinking-house, or Café
+<p>Outside almost every drinking-house, or Café
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span>
Breton, lay a fat pig sleeping contentedly on the
pavement, and tied to a string in the wall, built
@@ -2319,7 +2303,7 @@ carved buttresses.</p>
so ancient as Vannes. These walls speak for themselves.
They speak of the time when Vannes was
the capital of the rude Venetes who made great
-Cæsar hesitate, and retarded him in his conquest of
+Cæsar hesitate, and retarded him in his conquest of
the Gauls. They speak of the twenty-one emigrants,
escaped from the Battle of Quiberon, who were shot
on the promenade of the Garenne, under the great
@@ -2412,7 +2396,7 @@ conceivable was for sale. At certain stalls there
were sweets of all colours, yet all tasting the same
and made of the worst sugar. I saw the same man
still selling his spoons and umbrellas; but he was
-fat and comfortable now. He had had his <i>déjeuner</i>,
+fat and comfortable now. He had had his <i>déjeuner</i>,
and was not nearly so excited and amusing.
Fried sardines were sold with long rolls of bread;
also sausages. They cook the sardines on iron
@@ -2531,7 +2515,7 @@ looked tired and bored with the endless bargains,
as they leant their heads against one another. Now
and then one was taken out and trotted up and
down the square; then two men clasped hands
-once, and went off to a café to drink. If they
+once, and went off to a café to drink. If they
clasp hands a third time the bargain will be closed.</p>
<p>Market-day in Vannes is an excuse for frivolity.
@@ -2568,7 +2552,7 @@ sew quickly, for they have more work than they
can possibly accomplish during the day. It is
amusing to watch the customers. I sat on the
stone balustrade which runs round the open
-square of the Hôtel de Ville, whither all the
+square of the Hôtel de Ville, whither all the
townswomen come as to a circus, bringing their
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span>
families, and eating their meals in the open air,
@@ -2664,12 +2648,12 @@ QUIMPER</h2>
<div class="poetry-container">
<div class="poem">
-<p class="o1">'C'était à la campagne</p>
-<p>Près d'un certain canton de la basse Bretagne</p>
-<p>Appelé Quimper Corentin.</p>
+<p class="o1">'C'était à la campagne</p>
+<p>Près d'un certain canton de la basse Bretagne</p>
+<p>Appelé Quimper Corentin.</p>
<p>On sait assez que le Destin</p>
-<p>Adresse là les gens quand il veut qu'on enrage.</p>
-<p>Dieu nous préserve du voyage.'</p>
+<p>Adresse là les gens quand il veut qu'on enrage.</p>
+<p>Dieu nous préserve du voyage.'</p>
</div></div>
<p>So says La Fontaine. The capital of Cornouailles
@@ -2733,7 +2717,7 @@ Act rankles, and ever will rankle, in the hearts of
the Breton people!</p>
<p>'On dit que la France est un pays libre,' said my
-hostess; 'c'est une drôle de liberté!'</p>
+hostess; 'c'est une drôle de liberté!'</p>
<p>The inhabitants of Quimper were more bitter,
more rebellious, than those of any other town,
@@ -2744,7 +2728,7 @@ people of Quimper. I remember well in the old
days what a large amount of food and clothing
went forth into the town from those hospitable
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span>
-doors, for the Retraite du Sacré C&oelig;ur was a rich
+doors, for the Retraite du Sacré C&oelig;ur was a rich
Order.</p>
<p>It was with a beating heart and eager anticipation
@@ -2769,10 +2753,10 @@ Sister asked. Who was I?</p>
<p>I gave my name, and instantly her face lit up.</p>
-<p>'Why, it is Mademoiselle Dorothé!' she exclaimed,
+<p>'Why, it is Mademoiselle Dorothé!' she exclaimed,
raising her hands above her head in
-astonishment. 'Entréz, mademoiselle et madame,
-entréz!'</p>
+astonishment. 'Entréz, mademoiselle et madame,
+entréz!'</p>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_185" id="illo_185"></a>
<img src="images/illo_185.jpg" width="443" height="550" alt="" />
@@ -2791,7 +2775,7 @@ in my childish imagination had been a charmed
and magic place, for it was here that I came always
to see my mother on visiting days. We had not
long to wait before, with a rustle and clinking of
-her cross and rosary, Mère B. appeared, a sweet
+her cross and rosary, Mère B. appeared, a sweet
woman in the black dress and pointed white coif
that I knew so well. She had always been beautiful
in my eyes, and she was so still, with the
@@ -2801,8 +2785,8 @@ pink as ever, and her hands, which I used to watch
in admiration by the hour, were stretched out with
joy to greet me.</p>
-<p>'O la petite Dorothé!' she cried,'quel bonheur
-de vous revoir! Est-ce vraiment la petite Dorothé?'</p>
+<p>'O la petite Dorothé!' she cried,'quel bonheur
+de vous revoir! Est-ce vraiment la petite Dorothé?'</p>
<p>As I sat watching her while she talked to my
mother, all the old thoughts and feelings came
@@ -2811,12 +2795,12 @@ her: I could not treat her as if she were an ordinary
person. All the old respectful tricks and turns of
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span>
speech came back to me, though I imagined I had
-forgotten them. My mother was telling Mère B. of
+forgotten them. My mother was telling Mère B. of
how busy I had been since I had left the convent&mdash;of
the books I had written and all about them;&mdash;but
I felt as small and insignificant as the child
of ten, and could only answer in monosyllables&mdash;'Oui,
-ma mère,' or 'Non, ma mère.'</p>
+ma mère,' or 'Non, ma mère.'</p>
<p>At our request, we were shown over the convent.
Many memories it brought back&mdash;some pleasant,
@@ -2834,7 +2818,7 @@ ate all my fat and pieces of gristle. She remembered
me perfectly. Many were the tussles, poor
woman, she had had with me.</p>
-<p>Mère B. showed us the chapel, where we used to
+<p>Mère B. showed us the chapel, where we used to
assemble at half-past six every morning, cold and
half-asleep, to say our prayers before going into the
big church. Many were the beautiful addresses
@@ -2846,7 +2830,7 @@ forbearing during the day&mdash;vows and resolves only
to be broken soon.</p>
<p>We wandered through the garden between the
-beds of thyme and mint and late roses, and Mère B.
+beds of thyme and mint and late roses, and Mère B.
spoke with tears in her eyes of the time when
they would have to leave their happy convent home
and migrate to some more hospitable land. 'It is
@@ -2892,7 +2876,7 @@ to the fore, teasing you, tormenting you back into
the toils once more! It was with a feeling of
sorrow and a sensation that something was being
wrenched from me that I bade good-bye to sweet
-Mère B. at the garden gate, with many embraces
+Mère B. at the garden gate, with many embraces
and parting injunctions not to forget the convent
and my old friends.</p>
@@ -3070,7 +3054,7 @@ prattling all the while. The man took not the
slightest notice of the child. He was glancing
sharply about him. By-and-by he bent down
towards his son, and I heard him whisper,
-'Allez à ses messieurs la.' Without a word the
+'Allez à ses messieurs la.' Without a word the
boy trotted off towards the men, his hands in his
pockets, and began talking to them, the father
watching attentively. He returned, but was immediately
@@ -3106,7 +3090,7 @@ a bleak, unsympathetic place. I felt an impulse to
run after the diligence and beg the driver to take
us away. This was 'the picturesque little fishing
village'! We dived into the most respectable-looking
-<i>débit de boissons</i> we could find, and
+<i>débit de boissons</i> we could find, and
asked for tea. An old lady sitting before the
fire dropped her knitting, and her spectacles flew
off. The sudden appearance of strangers in Binic,
@@ -3125,7 +3109,7 @@ flavourless. We lengthened out the meal until
the carrier's cart arrived, with a full complement
of passengers. It had begun to rain and hail, and
the driver cheerfully assured us his was the last
-diligence that day. The proprietress of the <i>débit</i>
+diligence that day. The proprietress of the <i>débit</i>
had begun to rub her hands with glee at the
thought of having us as customers; but I was
determined that, even if I had to sit on the top
@@ -3145,7 +3129,7 @@ hurled at the heads of 'ses affreuses Anglaises.'
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_215" id="illo_215"></a>
<img src="images/illo_215.jpg" width="550" height="442" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">DÉBIT DE BOISSONS</p>
+<p class="caption">DÉBIT DE BOISSONS</p>
</div>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_221" id="illo_221"></a>
@@ -3173,10 +3157,10 @@ had been a lordly reception-room, flourished round
with his duster over mantelpiece and table and
straight-backed chairs, and motioned us to be seated.</p>
-<p>'Voilà tout ce qu'il y a de plus joli et confortable,'
+<p>'Voilà tout ce qu'il y a de plus joli et confortable,'
he said, with a smile. Perceiving that we
were not impressed, he drew aside the curtains and
-pointed with a dirty forefinger. 'Voilà un joli
+pointed with a dirty forefinger. 'Voilà un joli
petit jardin,' he exclaimed triumphantly. There,
he added, we might sit if we chose. Also, he
said there was a buffet close at hand. As this did
@@ -3206,7 +3190,7 @@ in abundance, pinky-brown and russet.</p>
by artists, attracted by the fishing-boats
with their vermilion sails, who never tire of depicting
the gray stone quay, with its jumble of masts
-and riggings. In the <i>salle à manger</i> of the little
+and riggings. In the <i>salle à manger</i> of the little
hotel where we had luncheon the walls were
literally panelled with pictures of fishing-boats
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span>
@@ -3287,7 +3271,7 @@ will be good and lives happy; on those who are
destined never to return. At the opening of the
fishing season there is a ceremonial procession,
attended by the fathers, mothers, sisters, and
-<i>fiancées</i> of the fisher folk. Each man as he embarks
+<i>fiancées</i> of the fisher folk. Each man as he embarks
is blessed by the priest and given a few last
words of advice. Then the boats move away, a big
flotilla of red-sailed fishing craft, the men singing
@@ -3379,12 +3363,12 @@ towards which we were going rapidly over the
cobbled stones of the town&mdash;it was all one to me.</p>
<p>By great good luck we happened to chance on
-the Hôtel de France, where we were greeted by
-the <i>maîtresse d'hôtel</i>, a kindly woman, and without
+the Hôtel de France, where we were greeted by
+the <i>maîtresse d'hôtel</i>, a kindly woman, and without
further delay, although it sounds somewhat <i>gourmande</i>
to say so, sat down to one of the best
dinners it has ever been my lot to eat. The
-kitchen was exactly opposite the <i>salle à manger</i>,
+kitchen was exactly opposite the <i>salle à manger</i>,
the door of which was open for all to see within.
There we could observe the chef, rotund and rosy-cheeked,
in spotless white cap and apron, busy
@@ -3416,8 +3400,8 @@ and all the men retired tradesmen.</p>
<p>Guingamp, by the light of day, is a pretty town,
with nothing particularly imposing or attractive,
although at one time it was an important city of
-the Duchy of Penthièvre. Its only remnant of
-ancient glory consists in the church of Nôtre
+the Duchy of Penthièvre. Its only remnant of
+ancient glory consists in the church of Nôtre
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span>
Dame de Bon Secours, a bizarre and irregular
monument, dating from the fifteenth century. In
@@ -3456,8 +3440,8 @@ road, a large heavy basket suspended between them,
singing a pretty Breton ballad in shrill trebles:</p>
<div class="poetry-container">
<div class="poem">
-<p class="o1">'J'ai mangé des cerises avec mon petit cousin,</p>
-<p>J'ai mangé des cerises, des cerises du voisin.'</p>
+<p class="o1">'J'ai mangé des cerises avec mon petit cousin,</p>
+<p>J'ai mangé des cerises, des cerises du voisin.'</p>
</div></div>
<p>I caught the words as they passed, and remembered
@@ -3496,7 +3480,7 @@ and miniature waterfalls, and hills covered by
bracken and heather. The air is bracing.</p>
<p>At the top of one of the hills the carriage was
-stopped, and a chubby boy in a red beré and sabots
+stopped, and a chubby boy in a red beré and sabots
presented himself at the door, with the request
that we should descend and see the 'goffre.' Not
knowing what the 'goffre' might be, we followed
@@ -3550,7 +3534,7 @@ purple stems, the bracken, the golden path, and,
looking up, the vivid green of the trees and the
blue of the sky. The child led us on through the
wood, never deigning to address a word to us, his
-hands in his pockets, and his beré pulled over his
+hands in his pockets, and his beré pulled over his
eyes. Sometimes the path descended steeply;
sometimes it was a hard pull uphill, and we were
forced to stop for breath. Always the merciless
@@ -3633,7 +3617,7 @@ which are very thick, are pierced by three gates,
doubled by bastions and flanked by machicolated
towers. At each high tide the sea surrounds the
fortress. Tradition tells us that on one occasion
-at the Fête Dieu the floods retired to make way
+at the Fête Dieu the floods retired to make way
for a religious procession of children and clergy,
with golden banners and crosses, in order that they
might make the complete tour of the ramparts.
@@ -3659,7 +3643,7 @@ through the Straits of Gibraltar, skirting Spain
and Portugal; they reach France in May. In
June they are to be found on the coast of
Morbihan and Concarneau, in August in the Bay
-of Douarnénez, in September by the Isle de Batz,
+of Douarnénez, in September by the Isle de Batz,
and later in England or in Scotland.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_281" id="illo_281"></a>
@@ -3802,12 +3786,12 @@ a sombre obstinacy. At the angles you often see
grotesque figures of biniou-players, arabesques,
and leaves, varied in the most bizarre manner,
and so delicately and beautifully executed that
-they would form material for six 'Musées de Cluny.'
+they would form material for six 'Musées de Cluny.'
These vast high houses are very dirty, crumbling
like old cheeses, and almost as multitudinously
alive. Each story is separated by massive beams,
carved in a profusion of ornaments; each window
-has small leaded panes. The rest of the façade is
+has small leaded panes. The rest of the façade is
carved with lozenge-shaped slates.</p>
<p>Morlaix, of course, has her Maison de la Reine
@@ -3854,12 +3838,12 @@ town seems to have everlasting youth. This is
principally owing to the great love of the people
for art and the picturesque, which has led them to
renovate and rebuild constantly. For this reason,
-some of the structures are of great archæological
+some of the structures are of great archæological
value.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_301" id="illo_301"></a>
<img src="images/illo_301.jpg" width="550" height="440" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MEDIÆVAL HOUSE AT MORLAIX</p>
+<p class="caption">MEDIÆVAL HOUSE AT MORLAIX</p>
</div>
<p>The religious edifices are few. Indeed, I saw
only the little church of St. Milaine, its belfry
@@ -3903,7 +3887,7 @@ in Brittany as it is in Morlaix.
PONT-AVEN</h2>
<p>Pont-Aven is associated with agreeable memories.
-This village in the South of Finistère draws men
+This village in the South of Finistère draws men
and women from all over Europe, summer after
summer. Many of them stay there throughout the
winter, content to be shut off from the world, allowing
@@ -4026,8 +4010,8 @@ coarse wooden sabots stuffed with straw.</p>
<p>Mother, who was very young at the time, has
often told me that she will never forget their
-arrival at the little Hôtel Gleanec. They were
-shown into a <i>salle à manger</i>, where rough men
+arrival at the little Hôtel Gleanec. They were
+shown into a <i>salle à manger</i>, where rough men
sat on either side of a long table, serving themselves
out of a common dish, and dipping great slices of
bread into their plates.</p>
@@ -4044,7 +4028,7 @@ words; others have sunk into oblivion, and are still
amateurs.
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span></p>
-<p>The chief hotel in the village was the Hôtel des
+<p>The chief hotel in the village was the Hôtel des
Voyageurs, to which Mother and Father soon
migrated. It was kept by a wonderful woman, called
Julia. Originally a peasant girl, she had by untiring
@@ -4055,7 +4039,7 @@ know of Julia, and year after year artists and their
families came back regularly to stay with her. She
is a woman with a strong individuality. She
gathered a large custom among artists, who flocked
-to the Hôtel des Voyageurs as much because of
+to the Hôtel des Voyageurs as much because of
the charm of Mdlle. Julia, and the comfort of her
house, as for the beauty of the scenery.</p>
@@ -4111,7 +4095,7 @@ ask Batiste,' she was wont to say.</p>
<p>All the artists worshipped the ground she trod
upon; and well they might, for they would never
-have a better friend than she. Her <i>salle à
+have a better friend than she. Her <i>salle à
manger</i> and <i>grand salon</i> were panelled with
pictures, some of which are very valuable to-day.
Tender-hearted she was, and strong-minded, with
@@ -4213,14 +4197,14 @@ and comfort alone.</p>
<p>Batiste, the butcher, was a great friend of ours.
With morbid fascination we witnessed his slaughter
of pigs and cows. Then, soon we knew where to
-get the best <i>crêpes</i>. These are pancakes of a kind,
+get the best <i>crêpes</i>. These are pancakes of a kind,
so thin that you can see through them, made
on a round piece of metal over a blazing fire.
Eaten hot, with plenty of butter and sugar, they
are equal to anything in our English cookery.
There was one particular old lady living down by
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span>
-the bridge who made <i>crêpes</i>. We saw her mixing
+the bridge who made <i>crêpes</i>. We saw her mixing
the ingredients, mostly flour and water, and spreading
the dough over the round piece of metal. It
became hard in an instant, and curled up brown
@@ -4242,7 +4226,7 @@ The Concarneau and Pont-Aven diligence is quaint
and primitive, devoid of springs, and fitted with
extremely narrow and hard seats. We passed
through villages in which every house seemed to
-be either a <i>buvette</i> or a <i>débit de boisson</i>. At these
+be either a <i>buvette</i> or a <i>débit de boisson</i>. At these
our driver&mdash;a man in a blue blouse and a black
felt hat&mdash;had to deliver endless parcels, for which
he dived continually under the seat on which we
@@ -4344,7 +4328,7 @@ it was a Swiss village in miniature. By the time
we arrived it was night. We could only discern
clean white houses on either side, and water rushing
under a bridge over which we passed. The
-Hôtel des Voyageurs looked much the same as
+Hôtel des Voyageurs looked much the same as
ever, except that over the way a large building
had been added to the <i>annexe</i>. To our great
disappointment, we discovered that Mdlle. Julia
@@ -4460,7 +4444,7 @@ traveller talking of Pont-Aven.</p>
<p>'Pshaw!' he said, 'they are all English and
Americans there. Everything is done for the
-English. At the Hôtel des Voyageurs even the
+English. At the Hôtel des Voyageurs even the
cuisine is English. It is unbearable! At the table
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span>
the men wear clothes of inconceivable colour and
@@ -4552,7 +4536,7 @@ happy little people who have no history.</p>
<p class="caption">THE BRIDGE, PONT-AVEN</p>
</div>
-<p>Not far from Pont-Aven is the ruined château of
+<p>Not far from Pont-Aven is the ruined château of
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span>
Rustephan. One approaches it through a wood of
silver birches, under great old trees; cherry-trees
@@ -4577,7 +4561,7 @@ washing dishes in.</p>
the back of the neck; and as one sits on a mound
of earth in the middle of what was once the dining-hall,
one cannot resist dreaming of the romantic
-history of Geneviève de Rustephan, the beautiful
+history of Geneviève de Rustephan, the beautiful
lady who lived here long ago. Up in one of the
great rounded towers spotted with orange lichen
and encircled with ivy is a room which must have
@@ -4593,7 +4577,7 @@ mounds of earth, covered with straggling grass,
bracken, and blackberry-bushes, and loose typical
Breton stone walls enclosing fields. Horrible to
relate, in the lordly dining-hall, where once the
-dainty Geneviève sat, is a fat pig, nozzling in the
+dainty Geneviève sat, is a fat pig, nozzling in the
earth.</p>
<p>Naturally, Rustephan is haunted. If anyone
@@ -4641,14 +4625,14 @@ in the world.
</div>
<h2><span class="b12">CHAPTER XIII</span><br />
-QUIMPERLÉ</h2>
+QUIMPERLÉ</h2>
-<p>Quimperlé is known as the Arcadia of Basse
+<p>Quimperlé is known as the Arcadia of Basse
Bretagne, and certainly the name is well deserved.
I have never seen a town so full of trees and
trailing plants and gardens. Every wall is green
with moss and gay with masses of convolvulus and
-nasturtium. Flowers grow rampant in Quimperlé,
+nasturtium. Flowers grow rampant in Quimperlé,
and overrun their boundaries. Every window-sill
has its row of pink ivy-leafed geraniums, climbing
down and over the gray stone wall beneath; every
@@ -4667,7 +4651,7 @@ of the Middle Ages, and some of the Renaissance
period, with sculptured porches and panes of
bottle-glass; a few have terraces at the end of the
gardens, over which clematis climbs. Here and
-there the sun lights up a corner of a façade, or
+there the sun lights up a corner of a façade, or
shines on the emerald leaves, making them scintillate.
Down the steps a girl in white-winged cap
and snowy apron, with pink ribbon at her neck,
@@ -4722,10 +4706,10 @@ arranged carrots and onions, coloured sweets in
bottles, and packets of tobacco. This shop evidently
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span>
supplies everything that a human being can
-desire. Above it you read: 'Café on sert a boire
+desire. Above it you read: 'Café on sert a boire
et a manger.'</p>
-<p>While we were in Quimperlé there were two
+<p>While we were in Quimperlé there were two
musicians making a round of the town. One, with a
swarthy face, was blind, and sang a weird song in a
minor key, beating a triangle. The other, who
@@ -4740,7 +4724,7 @@ we went we heard it, sometimes so near that we
could catch the tune, sometimes at a distance,
when only the dull boom of the drum was distinguishable.</p>
-<p>Whenever I think of Quimperlé this strange
+<p>Whenever I think of Quimperlé this strange
music and the spectacle of those two picturesque
figures come back to memory. The men are
well known in Brittany. They spend their lives
@@ -4755,7 +4739,7 @@ outside the convent walls.
<p class="caption">THE BLIND PIPER</p>
</div>
-<p>Quimperlé is a sleepy place, changing very little
+<p>Quimperlé is a sleepy place, changing very little
with the years. In spite of the up-to-date railway-station,
moss still grows between the pavings of the
streets. The houses have still their picturesque
@@ -4772,7 +4756,7 @@ boulevards, the never-ending rattle of the fiacres,
and the rasping cries of the camelot, you forget the
seething world outside.</p>
-<p>In the Rue du Château, the aristocratic quarter,
+<p>In the Rue du Château, the aristocratic quarter,
are many spacious domains with doorways surmounted
by coats of arms and coronets. Most of
them have closed shutters, their masters having disappeared,
@@ -4784,12 +4768,12 @@ God, the saints, and the priests, as to the only
living souvenirs of better times.
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span></p>
-<p>In no other place in Finistère was the Revolution
+<p>In no other place in Finistère was the Revolution
so sudden and so terrible as in this little town, and
nowhere were the nobility so many and powerful.
-This old Rue du Château must have rung with
+This old Rue du Château must have rung with
furious cries on the day when the federators returned
-from the fête of the Champs de Mars after
+from the fête of the Champs de Mars after
the abolition of all titles and the people took the
law into their own hands. The Bretons are slow
to anger; but when roused they are extremely
@@ -4798,7 +4782,7 @@ nobles in their seignorial hotels&mdash;but also they
went to the tombs and mutilated the dead with
sabre cuts.</p>
-<p>In Quimperlé the painter finds pictures at every
+<p>In Quimperlé the painter finds pictures at every
turn. For example, there are clear sinuous streams
crossed by many bridges, not unlike by-canals in
Venice. As you look up the river the bank is
@@ -4906,7 +4890,7 @@ valley, into which you descend by a sloping green
path. We sat on a stone bench above, and watched
the people as they passed before us. There were
bare-legged school-children in their black pinafores
-and red berés, hurrying home to <i>déjeuner</i>, swinging
+and red berés, hurrying home to <i>déjeuner</i>, swinging
their satchels; and beggars, ragged and dirty, holding
towards us tin cups and greasy caps, with many
groans and whines. One man held a baby on his
@@ -4951,7 +4935,7 @@ leap.</p>
along the quay arm in arm, singing some rollicking
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span>
Breton chanson, and all rather affected by their
-visits to the various <i>débits de boissons</i>. There were
+visits to the various <i>débits de boissons</i>. There were
two men and two women&mdash;the men fair and
bearded, wearing peaked caps; the women in their
best lace coifs and smartest aprons. As they
@@ -5194,7 +5178,7 @@ moored to the quay, their nets and sails hauled
down on this great day of the week, the Sabbath.
As there was no hotel in the place, we entered a
clean-looking <i>auberge</i> and asked for luncheon.
-The kitchen led out of the little <i>salle à manger</i>,
+The kitchen led out of the little <i>salle à manger</i>,
and, as the door was left wide open, we could watch
the preparation of our food. We were to have a
very good soup; we saw the master of the house
@@ -5215,7 +5199,7 @@ time. Between three and four people go down to
the quay, clattering over the cobble stones in their
best black sabots, to watch the steamers come in
from Quiberon. You see girls in fresh white caps
-and neat black dresses, spruce soldiers, ladies <i>à la
+and neat black dresses, spruce soldiers, ladies <i>à la
mode</i> in extravagant headgear and loud plaid or
check dresses. On the quay they buy hot chestnuts.
From our hotel we could watch the people
@@ -5449,7 +5433,7 @@ flowers.</p>
<p>For one reason at least St. Malo is unique. It
is a town of some thousand inhabitants; yet it is
-still surrounded by mediæval walls. Of all the
+still surrounded by mediæval walls. Of all the
towns in Brittany, St. Malo is the only one which
still remains narrowly enclosed within walls. It
is surrounded by the sea except for a narrow neck
@@ -5497,7 +5481,7 @@ features and a powerful look.</p>
with their throngs of people and their gay little
shops where the wares are always hung outside&mdash;worsted
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span>
-shawls, scarlet and blue berés, Breton
+shawls, scarlet and blue berés, Breton
china (decorated by stubby figures of men and
women and heraldic devices), chaplets, shrines to
the Virgin Mary, many-coloured cards, religious
@@ -5520,7 +5504,7 @@ travelled during the whole of her reign, for she felt
that to rule well and wisely she must be ever in
close touch with her people. No woman was more
beloved by the populace. Everywhere she went
-she was fêted and adored. She ruled her province
+she was fêted and adored. She ruled her province
with a rod of iron; yet she showed herself to be in
many ways wonderfully feminine. Nothing could
have been finer than the act of uniting Brittany
@@ -5571,7 +5555,7 @@ to see.</p>
<p>What a revelation it is, after winding up the
narrow, steep streets of St. Malo, suddenly to
-behold, framed in an archway of the old mediæval
+behold, framed in an archway of the old mediæval
walls, the sea! There is a greeny-blue haze so
vast that it is difficult to trace where the sea ends
and the sky begins. The beach is of a pale yellow-brown
@@ -5618,7 +5602,7 @@ to the hand of the magician. It is uncanny.</p>
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span>
midst of an immense moving plain, on which three
rivers twist, like narrow threads intersecting it&mdash;Le
-Conesnon, La Sée, and La Seline. Several
+Conesnon, La Sée, and La Seline. Several
dark islands lie here and there uncovered, and
groups of small boats are left high and dry. It is
fascinating to watch the sea coming up, appearing
@@ -5634,7 +5618,7 @@ Mount.</p>
Mont St. Michel by poets and artists, by historians
and architects. She has been called 'A
poem in stone,' 'Le palais des angles,' 'An
-inspiration of the Divine,' 'La cité des livres,'
+inspiration of the Divine,' 'La cité des livres,'
'Le boulevard de la France,' 'The sacred mount,'
etc. Normandy and Brittany dispute her. She is
in the possession of either, as you will.</p>
@@ -5668,12 +5652,12 @@ a footbridge and beneath a solid stone archway,
from which the figure of the Virgin in a niche
looks down. You find yourself in a narrow, steep
street, black and dark with age, and crowded with
-shops and bazaars and cafés. The town appears to
+shops and bazaars and cafés. The town appears to
be given up to the amusement and entertainment
of visitors; and, as St. Michael is the guardian
saint of all strangers and pilgrims, I suppose this is
appropriate. Tourists fill the streets and overflow
-the hotels and cafés; the town seems to live,
+the hotels and cafés; the town seems to live,
thrive, and have its being entirely for the tourists.
Outside every house hangs a sign advertising
coffee or china or curios, as the case may be, and
@@ -5721,12 +5705,12 @@ greets you everywhere, written in large black letters
on a white ground.</p>
<p>If you mount some steps and turn a corner
-suddenly, Poulard <i>frère</i> greets you; if you go for
+suddenly, Poulard <i>frère</i> greets you; if you go for
a harmless walk on the ramparts, the renowned
coffee of Poulard <i>veuve</i> hits you in the face. Each
one strives to be the right and only Poulard. You
struggle to detach yourselves from these Poulards.
-You go through a fine mediæval archway, past
+You go through a fine mediæval archway, past
shops where valueless, foolish curios are for sale;
you scramble up picturesque steps, only to be told
once more in glaring letters that <span class="smcap">POULARD</span> spells
@@ -5775,7 +5759,7 @@ livelihood in the forbidding waste.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo_473" id="illo_473"></a>
<img src="images/illo_473.jpg" width="550" height="443" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">DÉJEUNER</p>
+<p class="caption">DÉJEUNER</p>
</div>
<p>The melancholy of the place is terrible. I
@@ -5805,7 +5789,7 @@ legend I had heard of the sculptor Gautier, a man
of genius, who was shut up in the Abbey of Mont
St. Michel and carved stones to keep himself from
going mad&mdash;you can see these in the abbey to this
-day. For some slight reason François I. threw the
+day. For some slight reason François I. threw the
unfortunate sculptor into the black cachot of the
Mount, and there he was left in solitude, to die by
degrees. His hair became quite white, and hung
@@ -5817,7 +5801,7 @@ became almost insane. One day, by a miracle,
Mass was held, not in the little dark chapel under
the crypts, but in the church on high, on the
topmost pinnacle of the Mount. It was a Sunday,
-a fête-day. The sun shone, not feebly, as I saw it
+a fête-day. The sun shone, not feebly, as I saw it
that day, but radiantly, the windows of the church
glistening. It was blindingly beautiful. The joy
of life surrounded him; the sweetness and freshness
@@ -5843,7 +5827,7 @@ nothing but sea and sandy wastes.</p>
<p>I was disturbed in my reverie by a loud nasal
voice shouting, 'Par ici, messieurs et dames, s'il
-vous plaît.' It was the guide, and willy-nilly we
+vous plaît.' It was the guide, and willy-nilly we
must go and make the rounds of the abbey among
a crowd of other sightseers. An old blind woman
on the abbey steps, evidently knowing that we were
@@ -5944,18 +5928,18 @@ beautiful, and making it forget the misery beneath.
</div>
<h2><span class="b12">CHAPTER XIX</span><br />
-CHÂTEAU DES ROCHERS</h2>
+CHÂTEAU DES ROCHERS</h2>
-<p>The name of Mme. Sévigné rings through the ages.
-Vitré is full of it. Inhabitants will point out, close
+<p>The name of Mme. Sévigné rings through the ages.
+Vitré is full of it. Inhabitants will point out, close
to the ruined ramparts, the winter palace where the
<i>spirituelle Marquise</i> received the Breton nobility
and sometimes the Kings of Brittany. To the
-south they will show you the Château des Rochers,
+south they will show you the Château des Rochers,
the princely country residence maintained by this
famous woman. She was a Breton of the Bretons,
building and planting, often working in the fields
-with her farm hands. She loved her Château des
+with her farm hands. She loved her Château des
Rochers. It was a joy to leave the town and the
gaieties of Court for the freshness of the fields and
the woods. She especially liked to be there for
@@ -5971,12 +5955,12 @@ became morose. She never wearied of her garden.
She had always some new idea with regard to it&mdash;some
new plan to lure her from a letter begun or
a book opened. Before reading the memoirs of
-Mme. Sévigné it is almost impossible to realize this
+Mme. Sévigné it is almost impossible to realize this
side of her nature. Who would have imagined that
-this woman of the salons, fêted in Paris, and known
+this woman of the salons, fêted in Paris, and known
everywhere, would be always longing for her country
home? It is only when you visit the famous
-Château des Rochers that you realize to the full
+Château des Rochers that you realize to the full
that she was a lover of nature and country habits.
Wandering through the old-world garden, you find
individual touches which bring back the dainty
@@ -5984,14 +5968,14 @@ Marquise vividly to mind. There are the venerable
trees, under which you may wander and imagine
yourself back in the time of Louis XIV. There
are the deep and shady avenues planted by Mme.
-Sévigné, and beautiful to this day. The names
+Sévigné, and beautiful to this day. The names
come back to you as you walk&mdash;'La Solitaire,'
'L'Infini,' 'L'honneur de ma fille'&mdash;avenues in
which madame sat to see the sun setting behind
the trees. Very quiet is this garden, with its broad
shady paths, its wide spaces of green, its huge
cedars growing in the grass, and its stiff flower-beds.
-There is Mme. Sévigné's sundial, on which she
+There is Mme. Sévigné's sundial, on which she
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span>
inscribed with her own hand a Latin verse. There
are the stiff rows of poplars, like Noah's Ark trees,
@@ -5999,14 +5983,14 @@ symmetrical, interlacing one with the other, unnatural
but dainty in design. There is her rose
garden, a rounded and terraced walk planted with
roses. There, too, are the sunny 'Place Madame,'
-the 'Place Coulanges,' and 'L'Écho,' where two
+the 'Place Coulanges,' and 'L'Écho,' where two
people, standing on stones placed a certain distance
apart, can hear the echo plainly. This garden, with
its stiff little rows of trees, its sunny open squares
surrounded by low walls, and its stone vases overgrown
with flowers, brings back the past so vividly
that one asks one's self whether indeed Mme.
-Sévigné is there no longer, and glances involuntarily
+Sévigné is there no longer, and glances involuntarily
down the avenues and the by-ways, half expecting
to distinguish the rapid passage of a majestic skirt.
What a splendid life this woman of the seventeenth
@@ -6090,7 +6074,7 @@ daughter, saying, 'My purpose to spend the winter
at Les Rochers frightens you. Alas! my daughter,
it is the sweetest thing in the world.'</p>
-<p>Mme. Sévigné was always thinking of her
+<p>Mme. Sévigné was always thinking of her
daughter, and of Provence, where she lived. Her
heart went out to her daughter. Everything about
Les Rochers helped her to remember her beloved
@@ -6098,12 +6082,12 @@ child. Even the country itself seemed to bring
back memories, for the nights of July were so
perfumed with orange-blossoms that one might
imagine one's self to be really in Provence.
-Mme. Sévigné wrote in a letter to one of her
+Mme. Sévigné wrote in a letter to one of her
friends:</p>
<p>'I have established a home in the most beautiful
place in the world, where no one keeps me company,
-because they would die of cold. The abbé
+because they would die of cold. The abbé
goes backwards and forwards over his affairs. I am
there thinking of Provence, for that thought never
leaves me.'</p>
@@ -6113,7 +6097,7 @@ leaves me.'</p>
<p class="caption">WEARY</p>
</div>
-<p>The château in which this wonderful woman
+<p>The château in which this wonderful woman
lived, whence started so many couriers to Provence,
is an important building, gray, a little heavy with
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span>
@@ -6127,7 +6111,7 @@ with old rose and gold. One can imagine the
gentle Marquise kneeling here at her devotions.</p>
<p>Visitors are shown the bedroom of Mme.
-Sévigné, now transformed into a historical little
+Sévigné, now transformed into a historical little
sanctuary. The furniture consists of a large four-post
bed, with a covering of gold and blue, embroidered,
it is said, by the Countess of Grignan.
@@ -6140,14 +6124,14 @@ handwriting of the Marquise herself.</p>
<p>The walls are hung with pictures of the family
and intimate friends, some of which are very remarkable.
-This room was called by Mme. Sévigné
+This room was called by Mme. Sévigné
the 'green room.' It still has a dainty atmosphere.
-Here Mme. Sévigné passed a great part of her life.
+Here Mme. Sévigné passed a great part of her life.
Under a large window is a marble table where she
is supposed to have written those letters which one
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span>
knows almost as well as the fables of Lafontaine.
-Mme. Sévigné coloured the somewhat cold though
+Mme. Sévigné coloured the somewhat cold though
pure language of the seventeenth century, but
not artificially. She animated it, conveyed warmth
into it, by putting into her writings much that was
@@ -6222,7 +6206,7 @@ of one line they were placed in a semicircle. This
did not seem to lead me on the road to discovery.
Of what avail is it to attempt to read the
mystery of these silent Celtic giants? Historians
-and archæologists have sought in vain to find a
+and archæologists have sought in vain to find a
solution to the problem. Some say that the stones
planted in the fields are temples dedicated to the
cult of the serpent; others maintain that this is
@@ -6345,12 +6329,12 @@ very ancient, the alphabet of the bards.</p>
<p>Mendicity is protected in Brittany. One meets
beggars at all the fairs, and often on the high-roads.
They earn their living by songs and ballads.
-They attend family fêtes, and, above all, marriage
+They attend family fêtes, and, above all, marriage
ceremonies, composing songs in celebration. No
Breton will refuse a bard the best of his hospitality.
Bards are honoured guests. 'Dieu vous
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span>
-bénisse, gens de cette maison,' says one, announcing
+bénisse, gens de cette maison,' says one, announcing
himself. He is installed in the ingle-nook, the
cosiest corner of a Breton kitchen; and after having
refreshed the inner man he rewards his host with
@@ -6394,7 +6378,7 @@ child died we attended the funeral, all dressed in
white, holding lighted tapers in our hands, and feeling
important and impressive. If one was born, we
graciously condescended to be present at the
-baptismal service and receive the boxes of dragées
+baptismal service and receive the boxes of dragées
always presented to guests on such occasions. At
all village processions we figured prominently.</p>
@@ -6411,7 +6395,7 @@ hour after hour, dressed in the beautiful costume
of the country&mdash;black broadcloth skirts, white
winged caps, and sabots. Often we would go
with our <i>bonne</i> and our respective partners into
-some neighbouring <i>débits de boissons</i> and drink
+some neighbouring <i>débits de boissons</i> and drink
<i>syrops</i> in true Breton fashion. At one <i>pardon</i> we
won the <i>ruban d'honneur</i>&mdash;a broad bright-blue
ribbon with silver tassels worn across the shoulder,
@@ -6439,7 +6423,7 @@ apart; it resembles neither the Flemish <i>kermesse</i>
nor the Parisian <i>foire</i>. Unlike the <i>foires</i> of Paris,
created for the gay world, for the men and women
who delight in turning night into day, the <i>pardon</i>
-has inspiration from high sources: it is the fête of
+has inspiration from high sources: it is the fête of
the soul. The people gather together from far and
near, not only to amuse themselves, but also to
pray. They pass long hours before the images of
@@ -6452,13 +6436,13 @@ Quimper, at the Feast of the Assumption, the
Place St. Corentin is crowded. People have come
from the surrounding towns, all dressed in the
characteristic costume of their vicinities. Pont-Aven,
-Pont L'Abbé, Concarmeau, Fouesnant, Quimperlé&mdash;all
+Pont L'Abbé, Concarmeau, Fouesnant, Quimperlé&mdash;all
are represented. You see the tight lace
-wide-winged cap of the Douarnénez women, hats
+wide-winged cap of the Douarnénez women, hats
bound with coloured chenile of the men of Carhaix,
white flannel coats bordered with black velvet of
-the peasants of Guéméné, the flowered waistcoats
-of Pleavé; the women of Quimper have pyramidical
+the peasants of Guéméné, the flowered waistcoats
+of Pleavé; the women of Quimper have pyramidical
coifs of transparent lace, showing the pink
or blue ribbon beneath, with two long floating
ends.</p>
@@ -6511,7 +6495,7 @@ strange bumps they formed in the animal's smooth
and shiny coils. How bloodthirsty children are at
heart!</p>
-<p>It is not always in large towns like Quimperlé
+<p>It is not always in large towns like Quimperlé
that <i>pardons</i> are held. More often they are to be
witnessed in the country, perhaps miles away from
any town, whence the people flock on foot. There
@@ -6588,7 +6572,7 @@ sounds die away in the distance.</p>
<p>The Saturday before the first Sunday in July is
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span>
-a fête-day in most towns. Pilgrims fill the towns,
+a fête-day in most towns. Pilgrims fill the towns,
which are packed with stalls for the fair. There
are sellers of cider and cakes, amulets, and rosaries.
A statue of the Madonna surrounded by archangels
@@ -6666,7 +6650,7 @@ In Brittany everything seems to have
been designed long ago. Wherever one goes one
comes across a strange and ancient Druidical monument,
menhirs, and dolmens of fabulous antiquity,
-an exquisite legend, a ruined château, ancient stone
+an exquisite legend, a ruined château, ancient stone
crosses, <i>calvaires</i>, and carvings. It is a country
full of signs and meanings. The poetical superstitions
and legends have been left intact in their
@@ -6708,360 +6692,6 @@ the country.</p>
document have been preserved.</p>
</div>
-<hr class="full" />
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