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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Horsemanship for Women, by Theodore Hoe Mead,
-Illustrated by Gray Parker
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-
-
-Title: Horsemanship for Women
-
-
-Author: Theodore Hoe Mead
-
-
-
-Release Date: June 13, 2013 [eBook #42938]
-
-Language: English
-
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-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN***
-
-
-E-text prepared by Julia Miller, Paul Clark, and the Online Distributed
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+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42938 ***
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Horsemanship for Women, by Theodore Hoe Mead,
-Illustrated by Gray Parker
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-
-
-
-Title: Horsemanship for Women
-
-
-Author: Theodore Hoe Mead
-
-
-
-Release Date: June 13, 2013 [eBook #42938]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN***
-
-
-E-text prepared by Julia Miller, Paul Clark, and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made
-available by Internet Archive/American Libraries
-(http://archive.org/details/americana)
-
-
-
-Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
- file which includes the original illustrations.
- See 42938-h.htm or 42938-h.zip:
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42938/42938-h/42938-h.htm)
- or
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42938/42938-h.zip)
-
-
- Images of the original pages are available through
- Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
- http://archive.org/details/horsemanshipforw00mead
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
- Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
-
-
-
-
-
-HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN
-
-by
-
-THEODORE H. MEAD
-
-With Illustrations by Gray Parker
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-New York
-Harper & Brothers, Franklin Square
-1887
-
-Copyright, 1887, by Harper & Brothers.
-All rights reserved.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS.
-
-
- PART I. PAGE
-
- AMATEUR HORSE-TRAINING 1
-
- LESSON
-
- I. COMING TO THE WHIP 15
-
- II. TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY (_Flexion de la mâchoire_),
- USING THE CURB 21
-
- III. TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY, USING THE SNAFFLE 24
-
- IV. TO LOWER THE HEAD 25
-
- V. TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE
- REINS HELD BELOW THE BIT (_Flexions de l'encolure_) 32
-
- VI. TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE
- REINS THROWN OVER THE NECK 35
-
- VII. TO MOVE THE CROUP TO RIGHT AND LEFT WITH THE WHIP 38
-
- VIII. MOUNTED 41
-
- IX. MOUNTED (_continued_) 48
-
- X. THE WALK 51
-
- XI. TO MOVE THE CROUP WITH HEEL AND WHIP (_Pirouette
- renversée_) 52
-
- XII. TO GUIDE "BRIDLEWISE" 55
-
- XIII. THE TROT 58
-
- XIV. THE GALLOP, HAND-GALLOP, AND CANTER 64
-
- XV. THE PIROUETTE, DEUX PISTES, PASSAGE 71
-
- XVI. BACKING 75
-
- XVII. RIDING IN CIRCLES.--CHANGE OF LEADING FOOT 79
-
-
- PART II.
-
- ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE 87
-
- Dress 88
-
- The Mount 91
-
- Mounting 92
-
- The Start 99
-
- On which Side to Ride 100
-
- The Seat 102
-
- On the Road 107
-
- The Pace 112
-
- Turning 112
-
- The Groom 116
-
-
- PART III.
-
- LEAPING 118
-
-
- PART IV.
-
- BUYING A SADDLE-HORSE 132
-
- Parts and "Points" of the Horse, Alphabetically Arranged 135
-
- List of Diseases and Defects 148
-
- INDEX 157
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS.
-
-
- PAGE
-
- Coming to the Whip 6
- A good Saddle 13
- A properly fitted Curb-chain 16
- Flexion of the Jaw--using the Curb 22
- Lowering the Head 26
- Punishment in case of Resistance 27
- "Pulling the Hands steadily Apart" 33
- To Bend the Neck to Right or Left, with the Reins below the Bits 34
- Getting the Horse "Light in Hand" 35
- Pulling on the Right Rein 36
- Moving the Croup one step to the Right 39
- Getting a Horse accustomed to Skirts 42
- Showing Reins in Left Hand 43
- Advancing at touch of Heel 44
- Stopping at touch of Whip on Back 45
- The Walk (Colt in Training) 46
- Bending the Neck to Right and Left 49
- Moving the Croup with the Heel and Whip 53
- Guiding Bridlewise (Turning to the Right) 56
- The Canter 65
- Ordinary Pirouette 71
- Going on "Deux Pistes" 72
- The Passage 73
- Backing 76
- Reins in Hand 77
- Act of changing Reins 77
- Leading with the Right Fore-foot 80
- Leading with the Left Fore-foot 82
- Ready to Mount 94
- "One, Two, Three" 95
- Placing the Foot in the Stirrup 96
- Position in Saddle 97
- A Square and Proper Seat 103
- Method of holding the Reins in both Hands 111
- Approaching a Fence 119
- A Water Jump 121
- Rising to the Leap 127
- Coming Down 129
- Parts and "Points" 136
- The sort of Horse to Buy 146
- The sort of Horse not to Buy 149
-
-
-
-
-HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN.
-
-
-
-
-PART I.
-
-AMATEUR HORSE-TRAINING.
-
-
-"My _dear_," said my wife, "you don't mean to say you have _bought
-that_ horse?"
-
-"Why, yes, indeed," replied I; "and very cheap, too. And why not?"
-
-"You will never get your money back," said she, "no matter how cheap
-you have bought him. Don't keep him. Send him back before it is too
-late."
-
-It was a sultry July morning, and my wife stood on the farm-house
-porch, in provokingly fresh attire, while I held my new acquisition
-by the bridle in the scorching sun; and just recovering as I was from
-illness, this conversation struck me as really anything but _tonic_ in
-its character. However, bracing myself up, I replied, "But I don't want
-to get my money back; I intend to train him for my own use under the
-saddle."
-
-"Oh, you can never do anything with that great horse. Why, he is the
-awkwardest brute I ever saw. Just look at him now!"
-
-In fact, his appearance was anything but beautiful at that moment. His
-Roman nose, carried a long way forward and a little on one side, gave
-him somewhat the air of a camel; his coat showed no recent acquaintance
-with the brush; and as he stood there sleepily in the sun, with one
-hind-leg hitched up, he did not present at all a picture to charm a
-lady's eye. Nevertheless, he was, in fact, a reasonably well-made
-horse, a full black, fifteen and three-quarter hands high, sound, kind,
-and seven years old.
-
-"He's just horrid," said my wife.
-
-"Oh, that's nothing," said I; "that's only a bad habit he has. We will
-soon cure him of such slovenly tricks. Just see what good points he
-has. His legs are a little long, to be sure, but they are broad, and
-have excellent hoofs; his breast is narrow, but then it is deep; and
-that large nostril was not given him for nothing. You will see he will
-run like a race-horse."
-
-"If you once get him started you can never stop him," said my wife.
-"You know how he pulls, and how nervous he is. He will go till he
-drops. You are not strong enough to ride such a horse."
-
-"Oh, nonsense," said I; "you can see that there is no mischief in
-him. Look what a kind eye he has! The fact is, horses are often very
-sensitive; and while this one may never have been cruelly treated, yet
-he has been misunderstood, and his feelings hurt a great many times a
-day. Human beings are the only things he seems afraid of. As for his
-awkward carriage, it is no worse than that of the farm hand who has
-made such a failure of trying to use him, and who is, nevertheless,
-when he stands up straight, a well-made, good-looking fellow. A little
-careful handling will make that animal as different from his present
-self as a dandified English sergeant is from the raw recruit he once
-was. What do you think of his name? It is Sambo."
-
-But my wife was not to be led off on any side question, and after
-intimating that such a plebeian appellation struck her as quite
-suitable, she continued; "Now you know that Mr. ----" (the farmer
-of whom I purchased) "knows a great deal more about horses than you
-do; you must admit that, for he has been buying and selling and
-driving them all his life, and _he_ doesn't like him, or he wouldn't
-sell so cheap; and as for training him, for my part I don't believe
-horse-training can be learned out of books, as a woman would learn a
-receipt for making cake. Do get him to take the horse back!"
-
-Now I have a great respect for my wife's opinion in general, and in
-this particular case all her points seemed well taken.
-
-The horse was tall, and I was short; he was excitable, and I hadn't the
-strength of a boy; he was very awkward, and I had never trained a horse
-in my life. However, I had been reading up a little on the subject,
-and feeling the confidence in myself which a very little knowledge is
-apt to impart, I was determined to try my hand.
-
-I had remarked that there was a certain French system which was, in
-the several works I had consulted, always spoken of with respect as
-a complete and original method, so I obtained a copy of the book, in
-which is set forth the _Méthode d'Équitation basée sur de nouveaux
-Principes, par F. Baucher_, and having disentangled (no easy task)
-what was really practical from the enveloping mass of conceited sham
-scientific nonsense, I had numbered the margin so as to make a series
-of simple progressive lessons of half an hour each. The volume in
-question, which was not, by-the-bye, the present improved edition, I
-now produced in a somewhat dog-eared condition from under my arm. My
-wife, seeing that remonstrance was of no avail, took a seat on the
-veranda, so as to be ready to advise and assist, while my excellent
-friends, the farmer and his wife, came out "to see the circus," as they
-said, and established themselves in suitable midsummer attitudes, with
-countenances of amused expectation.
-
-"The first few lessons must be given on foot," said I, and spreading my
-Baucher open upon the "horse-block," I proceeded to carry out its first
-injunction by placing myself, with riding-whip under my arm, in front
-of the horse, which was already saddled and bridled, and "looking him
-kindly in the face." He bore my gaze with equanimity, but when the
-riding-whip was produced he started violently; and when I raised my
-hand to pat his neck reassuringly he threw up his head and ran back.
-This evidently was not temper, but alarm. Clearly, moral suasion was
-not the kind that had been used with him hitherto. In plain English, he
-had been beaten on the head; and it was some time before he got over
-the impression made by such ill-treatment and ceased dodging at every
-sudden motion on my part.
-
-However, a lump of sugar gave the poor fellow more confidence, and,
-avoiding all brusque movements, I went on to give him the first lesson
-of the Baucher series, viz., _To Come to the Whip_.
-
-It is encouraging for beginners that this lesson, while producing
-conspicuous results, is in most cases very easy. In less than half an
-hour my audience was not a little surprised to see Sambo come to me
-at the slightest motion of the whip, and follow me about with neck
-arched, ears pricked up, and eyes lustrous with the unwonted pleasure
-of comprehending and voluntarily carrying out his master's wishes.
-
-[Illustration: COMING TO THE WHIP.]
-
-"Well, that's very pretty," said the farmer; "but what's the good of
-it?"
-
-This criticism, it may be remarked, he continued to repeat at every
-step in the horse's education. He did not "see the good" of a double
-bridle with two bits. He did not see the good of teaching the horse to
-relax the muscles of his jaw and to hold the bit lightly in the mouth.
-He did not see the good of suppling the various muscles of the neck, on
-which, nevertheless, depend to a surprising degree the balance of the
-whole body and the easy motion of the limbs. In fact, he maintained his
-attitude of amused and good-natured incredulity until one day, after
-about three weeks, I rode Sambo into the lawn, his neck arched and tail
-displayed, and, with the reins hanging on my little finger, made him
-cut circles and figure eights of all sizes at a spanking trot.
-
-Then my good farmer gave up, and said he really would hardly have
-believed it could be the same horse. What is more, he took off his own
-driving horses "the overdrawn check-reins" by which he had been hauling
-their noses up into as near a horizontal line as possible, and allowed
-them to carry their heads in a more natural manner.
-
-The afternoon of his first lesson Sambo was put in double harness for a
-drive of ten or twelve miles, during which he annoyed me excessively by
-his restless dancing and fretting, so that next morning I expected to
-have to begin all over again; but, to my satisfaction, he had forgotten
-nothing, and came towards me at the first motion of the whip, so that
-I passed on to the _Flexions de la Mâchoire_, which we translate as
-the _suppling of the muscles of the jaw_. Here I came upon my first
-difficulty, and it lasted me several days. It was, however, the only
-serious one in my whole course, and from subsequent experience I am
-satisfied that my own awkwardness and disposition to compel obedience
-by main force were the principal causes of it.
-
-However, success soon rewarded my perseverance, and I had the
-satisfaction of feeling the iron grip of the bit relax, and seeing the
-nose brought in and the face assume a perpendicular position.
-
-Without at present going further into detail, I will simply say that at
-the expiration of a month, during which Sambo had been driven double
-almost daily, his education for the saddle had so far advanced that
-his head was admirably carried, his trot was greatly improved--his
-walk always had been light and swift--he could trot sideways to the
-right or left, could pirouette to the right or to the left on the
-hind-feet or on the fore-feet, responding to the pressure of the rein
-upon his neck or of the leg against his side, while he had become so
-steady that I could fire at a mark with a pistol from his back.
-
-All this was very satisfactory progress, especially in view of my
-total inexperience, poor health, and the heat of the weather; but
-there is no doubt that any active young girl of sixteen or eighteen
-can do the like, for it was accomplished not by any mysterious or
-difficult process, nor by any exertion of physical strength, but by
-patiently following out, step by step, the processes which I am about
-to describe, and which are substantially those of Baucher, adapted to
-the use of a person of total inexperience, and that person a lady.
-
-If any such, having accompanied me thus far, feels the impulse to
-try to improve her own mount, I will confide to her the fact that
-the incidents narrated really occurred within the last few years
-not a hundred miles from New York; and I hope that the following
-propositions, which are literally true, will help to encourage her
-to an undertaking in which she will find amusement, exercise, and a
-discipline as useful to herself as to her horse:
-
-1. If, as is very likely, you feel a little afraid of your horse, you
-may be assured that your horse is a great deal more afraid of you.
-
-2. If you can only make clear to him what you wish him to do, he will
-try his best to do it, and will feel amply repaid for his efforts by a
-few kind words and caresses.
-
-3. His narrow brain can entertain only one idea at once, and therefore
-only one problem, and that a simple one, must be given him at a time.
-
-4. Once the problem is mastered, a very little practice makes the
-performance of the task instinctive, so that it will be performed at
-the proper signal, even against his own will, provided his mind is
-occupied with something else.
-
-This course of lessons is prepared with these facts in view.
-
-"But is horse-breaking a fitting amusement for young ladies?" a mother
-asks, and with an air indicating that to her, at least, a reply seems
-quite unnecessary. My dear madam, it is not horse-breaking we are
-talking of, but horse-training, which is a very different thing. There
-are, doubtless, many women who could break a colt if they chose, but it
-is an undertaking which we certainly do not recommend. In the "breaking
-to harness" of an untamed horse there is naturally included more or
-less of training, but the essential lesson to be taught is that it is
-useless to resist the will of man, for sooner or later the horse will
-test the question, and put forth every effort to throw off control.
-When, however, panting and exhausted, he finally submits, he has
-learned the necessary lesson; and whether it be after a long fight with
-a brutal rough-rider, or a physically painless struggle with an adroit
-Rarey, he has learned it for life. Henceforth he accepts the supremacy
-of the human race, and, unless under the goad of maddening pain or
-terror, will never, save in rare instances, really rebel; obeying not
-men only, but women, children, and even the very tools and implements
-of man, so that a dog may lead him by the bridle. Like a spoiled child,
-however, a horse will sometimes presume upon indulgence, and, to use a
-mother's phrase, will try to see how far he can go.
-
-At such times he is best opposed not by violence, but by firmness,
-reinforced, perhaps, now and then by a sharp cut with the whip, which,
-given unexpectedly at the precise moment of disobedience, will have the
-settling effect ascribed to the time-honored nursery "spank," and will
-bring him to his senses. Generally, however, what seems insubordination
-is in reality nervousness, which requires soothing, not punishment, and
-which you will be careful not to increase by fidgeting or by brusque
-movements of the reins. Even when severity is needed, a reproof in a
-cold, stern tone is often more effective than the lash.
-
-Thousands of young girls, who for various reasons cannot ride in
-winter, have every summer within reach horses quite as good as the
-average of those at city riding-schools, but which they are never
-allowed to mount.
-
-They look wistfully at the honest animals, longing for the exercise
-which would be so beneficial to their health and to their physical
-development, while so delightfully exhilarating to their spirits;
-but one horse is pronounced "skittish," another "hard-mouthed," and
-so on to the end. Nevertheless, some enterprising damsel manages to
-overcome all opposition, and, skirted, hatted, gloved, sets off in fine
-spirits. The horse, accustomed to the resistance of a heavy vehicle,
-moves forward with slow and heavy strides. Urged to greater speed, he
-rolls his shoulders so that it is almost impossible to rise to his
-trot. When put to the canter he pounds along the road, his hind-feet
-kept far in the rear and his head swaying up and down, while, missing
-the customary support of the bearing-rein, he all the time leans his
-heavy head on his rider's delicate arm, till it seems as if she would
-be pulled out of the saddle. However, the fresh open air is there, and
-the scenery; exercise, too, in plenty, and the pleasure of independent
-movement, so that our heroine is half inclined to persevere. But,
-alas! an equestrian party on well-bitted, light-stepping horses sweeps
-by, casting a pitying glance at her rustic mount and helpless plight.
-Mortified and discouraged, she goes home and dismounts, determined not
-to try again. Nevertheless, her horse is very likely quite as good as
-theirs, and all he wants is a little "handling," as the horsemen say.
-For twenty-five dollars a riding-master will turn him over to her as
-docile and supple as any of them, and, with a little time and trouble,
-she can do it herself for nothing.
-
-As for the proficiency in riding requisite, it is only necessary that
-you should not depend upon the reins for your balance--a common habit,
-but one destructive of all delicacy of the horse's mouth.
-
-As the first half-dozen lessons of this course are to be given on
-foot, a riding-habit would only be in the way; so go to your first
-_tête-à-tête_ with your new scholar in a stout walking-dress, easy in
-the waist, short of skirt, and of stuff that will bear scouring, for
-frothy lips will certainly be wiped on it. Let the hat be trim, the
-gloves strong and old, and the boots heavy with low heels.
-
-The saddle should, if possible, be of the safe and easy modern pattern,
-with hunting-horn and low pommel on the right side--but of course any
-one which does not gall the horse can be made to do. It should have
-at least two strong girths, and must be so padded with wool as not to
-touch the backbone. Make sure, before putting it on, that there are no
-tacks loose or likely to become so in the lining.
-
-[Illustration: A GOOD SADDLE.]
-
-The bridle should be a double one, with one "snaffle" or jointed
-bit, and one curb-bit, each having, of course, separate reins and
-headstalls. By-and-by you can use a single bridle, if you prefer, with
-whichever bit you think best suited to your hand and your horse's
-mouth.
-
-The whip should be elastic and capable of giving a sharp cut (though
-you may never need to administer one with it), and it is convenient to
-have a loop of cord or ribbon by which it may be hung to the wrist. A
-good birch switch is better for your present purpose than the usual
-flimsy "lady's whip;" and if you are in the country, it makes a good
-whip to begin with, as you will probably soon wish to substitute a crop.
-
-The place of instruction should be as retired as possible, so that
-there may be nothing to distract the horse's attention.
-
-For the first few lessons it will be well, if you are not thoroughly at
-home with horses, to have a man--some friend or attendant--near at hand
-to give you confidence by his presence, and to come to your aid in case
-of necessity.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON I.
-
-COMING TO THE WHIP.
-
-
-Have the horse brought saddled and bridled. Walk quietly up in front of
-him, with your riding-whip under your arm, and look him kindly in the
-face. See that the bridle fits properly, as a careless groom may have
-neglected to adjust it to the length of the head.
-
-The _throat-latch_ should be loose enough to permit the chin to come
-easily to the breast; the bits should lie in their proper place on the
-_bars_, and the curb-chain should lie flat in the _chin groove_, just
-tight enough to allow your fore-finger to pass under it. The _bars_ are
-that part of the gum between the _grinders_, or back teeth, and the
-_nippers_, or front teeth, which in the mare is destitute of teeth, and
-in the horse has a tusk called the _bridle-tooth_.
-
-It is upon these bars, of course, that the bits should lie, and the
-curb-bit, according to military rule, at an inch above the tusk.
-By general usage they are placed too high, the proper place of the
-curb-bit being not up in the corner of the lips, but opposite or nearly
-opposite the chin groove, which is just above the swell of the lower
-lip. If the curb-chain is too loose the bit will "fall through," or
-turn around in the mouth. If it is too tight, or is ill adjusted, or
-if, from the bits being too high, it slips up where the skin is thinner
-and the bones sharper, it will give such pain that, to avoid it, the
-nose will be thrust out instead of being brought in. The chain should
-press below the snaffle, or the latter will unhook it. Adjust and
-settle the various straps with your hand, speaking kindly to your horse
-at the same time; but when you have begun to teach him, reserve all
-praises and caresses to reward him when he has done well. It is a good
-plan to give him a lump of sugar before you begin and after you finish
-each lesson.
-
-[Illustration: A PROPERLY FITTED CURB-CHAIN.]
-
-Now, standing in front of the horse, take both curb-reins in the left
-hand at six inches below the bit, and, with the whip held tip downward
-in the right hand, strike him a light blow on the breast; in about a
-second give him another, and continue striking at the same interval,
-looking calmly at him the while, and following him if he steps backward
-or sideways.
-
-Sooner or later, and usually very soon, he will come straight towards
-you; then instantly relax his head, say "Bravo! bravo!" and stroke
-him on the face and neck. You will very likely hear him give a deep
-sigh of relief, like a frightened child. Give him half a minute or
-more, according to circumstances, to look about and recover from his
-nervousness--for you will find that his nerves work a good deal like
-your own--and then begin again, allowing him after every trial a
-half-minute or so of rest.
-
-It will not be long before he discovers that the way to avoid the whip
-is to come straight to you, and he will do so at the least motion of
-it. Take advantage of this to make him curve his neck, put his head in
-the proper perpendicular position, and bring his haunches under him,
-by holding him back with the curb-reins as he presses towards you.
-This lesson, to a careless observer, looks rather pretty than useful,
-but is indispensable for your purpose, for it gives you the means
-of preventing the horse from backing while you are teaching him the
-flexions of the jaw and of the neck. It shows him, also, that the whip
-is only to be dreaded when he disobeys, so that later on it will become
-in your hands, strange as it may now seem to you, a powerful means
-of calming his ardor and soothing his impatience, and thus sparing
-your bridle-hand the sometimes excessive fatigue of restraining his
-impetuosity.
-
-In practice it is not necessary to carry this instruction to the point
-where the horse will come to you from so great a distance as shown in
-the accompanying cut, though there is no difficulty in so doing.
-
-A certain English nobleman used to say that a man was as much above his
-ordinary self on horseback as he was at other times above the brutes.
-Possibly more than one young equestrian, remembering the exhilaration
-of some morning ride, the quickened appreciation, the redoubled
-enjoyment of the beauties of nature, and of the charm of congenial
-companionship, will be ready to echo the sentiment. It is only true,
-however, even approximately, _when the rider controls all the forces
-of the horse_, and it is the object of the present article to put this
-perfect control within the reach of every one willing to take the time
-and trouble to acquire it, for not daring, but calmness, not strength,
-but perseverance, are the qualities requisite.
-
-Both time and trouble undoubtedly will be required, for while, by even
-a careless use of this method, your horse may be made vastly more
-comfortable under the saddle, yet only by tact and patience can you win
-that mastery over his every volition by which his splendid strength,
-courage, and endurance will seem to be added to your own. You will
-find him, however, no tiresome pupil. On the contrary, every day will
-increase your pleasure both in his progress and in his companionship,
-for he will soon become attached to you, and will now and then turn
-his head and look at you with such an expression in his eyes that
-you will think the old belief in the transmigration of souls not so
-very wonderful after all. You will, besides, find in your lessons no
-contemptible discipline of character, for you will have to conquer your
-natural timidity in feeling your weakness opposed to his strength, to
-suppress your impatience when he is slow of apprehension, to remain
-calm when he is restive, and to award him your caresses, not because
-his neck is sleek and beautiful, but because he has done exactly as you
-directed. You will find also that they will have a tendency to improve
-your seat, by taking your attention from yourself, and with it some of
-the involuntary stiffness always born of self-consciousness.
-
-A different, but equally practical, result of knowing something of
-horse-training is that wherever you may be you will have no difficulty
-in getting a mount--no small advantage either, as many an enthusiastic
-young girl can testify as she remembers the stony look which came
-over some comfortable farmer's countenance when she confidingly asked
-to ride one of his round-bellied horses. Many an owner of a trained
-saddle-horse would gladly have him ridden carefully by one capable
-of keeping him "in good form," while every horse-owner, no matter
-how poor his nags, dreads an ignorant rider as he does the epizooty.
-Probably scores of country stable-keepers and thousands of farmers,
-after a season's experience with ordinary city riders, have vowed never
-to let a woman mount one of their horses again. One of the former,
-at a popular summer resort, said to the writer, "Two ladies hurt my
-hosses more last summer than all the rest of the work. They ain't no
-more saddles to be found in my stable!" A neighboring farmer, who had
-at first thought to reap a golden harvest from his five excellent
-horses at a dollar a ride, hereupon remarked, "They hain't no sense.
-They think a horse will go like a machine, and all they've got to do
-is to turn steam on with the whip." Very different would have been
-the verdict had the riders but possessed even a slight experience in
-training, for the horses would have come from their hands improved in
-mouth and gait, and almost certainly uninjured by bad usage.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON II.
-
-TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY (_FLEXION DE LA MÂCHOIRE_), USING THE CURB.
-
-
-Begin by assuring yourself that the horse has forgotten nothing of the
-previous lesson. Do not allow him to sidle up to you upon your movement
-of the whip towards him, nor to twist his nose towards you, but make
-him advance in a straight line.
-
-Now, standing at the left of the horse's head, with your feet firmly
-planted a little way apart, take the left snaffle-rein in the left
-hand, and the left curb-rein in the right, at five or six inches from
-their respective bits, and having brought the head into the proper
-perpendicular position, pull the two hands apart with gentle but steady
-force. Hold your whip, meanwhile, tip downward in the right hand, to
-prevent him from running back, which can be done without relaxing your
-pull by tapping him with it upon the breast.
-
-The object of this lesson, as well as of those which follow, is to
-overcome involuntary muscular contraction. In some cases, as probably
-in the present one, the contractions are simply nervous, and will cease
-with the mental cause; in others the muscles have grown into improper
-positions, so that time will be required to set them right.
-
-[Illustration: FLEXION OF THE JAW--USING THE CURB.]
-
-Your object at present is to get the jaw relaxed, so that you can move
-it at pleasure without resistance, and this may take time and patience,
-for you must not be satisfied with anything less than complete success,
-or you will repent it later. At first, however, seize the slightest
-involuntary opening of the horse's mouth as an excuse to relax your
-hold, caress and praise him, then let him stand a half-minute with his
-head free, and begin again.
-
-When he is submissive, and pleased with you, he will almost always show
-it by gently champing his bit; but do not be deceived by a nervous
-simulation which you will probably detect, and which consists in
-opening the mouth a very little and immediately gripping the bit again.
-You will have been completely successful when, by simply drawing on the
-curb-reins, the head is brought to the proper perpendicular position,
-and the bit, instead of being gripped, is held lightly in the mouth,
-or, to use the school term, when the horse is "light in hand."
-
-This is the only lesson in the series in which it is possible (though
-not probable) that your unaided strength may be insufficient; if so,
-get some one to help you over the first resistance of the horse.
-With care and tact, however, you will in all probability require no
-assistance.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON III.
-
-TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY, USING THE SNAFFLE.
-
-
-Begin by repeating in proper order all that has been done at the
-previous lessons. Now, having got the horse "light in hand" with the
-curb, relax the curb-rein and try to keep him light with the snaffle.
-
-He will probably begin to bear on it. If so, restrain him by successive
-tugs, punishing him a little with the curb, if necessary, and always
-rewarding him with praises and caresses when he does well. Avoid
-any violent use of the curb, or the horse, in his efforts to escape
-the pain, may get his tongue over the bit, and thus acquire a very
-troublesome habit. It must be remembered that the bit being the
-principal channel of communication between his mind and yours, his
-whole attention is concentrated upon it, and he is almost as much
-disconcerted by a sudden harsh movement of it as you would be by an
-unexpected shout in your ear.
-
-By this time your groom is perhaps watching you with interest, and
-may be trusted to repeat your handling, thus saving you some time and
-trouble; but, as a general thing, two lessons a day of from half to
-three-quarters of an hour each, are as much as a horse can receive with
-profit.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON IV.
-
-TO LOWER THE HEAD.
-
-
-Always look over your horse before beginning your instruction, to see
-that he has not met with any mishap. Observe that his eye is bright and
-that he feels in good spirits; run your eye over his limbs to detect
-any cut, bruise, or swelling; see that the hoofs are not cracked.
-
-Assure yourself that he is properly groomed--one good test being
-the absence of scurf at the roots of the mane; that his mouth has
-been sponged out before putting in the bit, his hoofs wiped off
-clean--never, however, blacked--and that he is properly saddled and
-bridled. With a little practice you will do all this in half a minute,
-while you are buttoning your gloves. About once a week ask after his
-food and appetite, and make the groom show you his shoes; and when
-the time comes for him to be re-shod (which should be at least once
-a month) positively forbid any trimming of the frog or of the inside
-of the hoof--any "cleaning up of the foot," as farriers are pleased
-to call it. The only part to be touched with the knife is the bottom
-of the outer, horny shell, which is not half an inch thick; and even
-this must be cut with moderation, never burned by fitting the shoe
-to it hot--the common makeshift of lazy farriers--nor filed on the
-outside, as both these operations not only weaken the hoof but impair
-Nature's arrangement for oiling and lubricating it. Should the horse
-not bear equal weight on all four legs, move him a step to see if the
-faulty posture may not have been accidental; and if it is repeated,
-examine the "favored" leg, carefully laying your bare hand on the hoof
-and joints to detect inflammation, feeling along the bones for lumps,
-comparing any suspicious spot with the same part of the corresponding
-leg, observing whether it is warmer or more sensitive than its fellow.
-
-[Illustration: LOWERING THE HEAD.]
-
-Having assured yourself that your horse is in perfect order, and
-that he has forgotten nothing of your previous instruction, you will
-now proceed to the lesson of the day. Place yourself on his left, or
-"near," side, take the snaffle-reins at a few inches from the bit, and
-pull his head downward. Should he not yield, cross the reins, by taking
-the right rein in the left hand and _vice versa_, which will pinch his
-jaw sharply, and pull again till he drops his head, when you will hold
-it down a few seconds, praising him the while; then raise it up, and
-allow him a little time to rest.
-
-[Illustration: PUNISHMENT IN CASE OF RESISTANCE.]
-
-For our young readers we give below a few of the more usual technical
-terms, of which it will be found convenient to have a knowledge in the
-course of these lessons:
-
-_Amble._--A gait like pacing, but slower, in which the two legs on the
-same side are moved together.
-
-_Appel._--The gentle tug on the rein given by the horse at each step.
-
-_Arrière-main._--That part of the horse back of the saddle, called, not
-quite correctly, in this article, the croup.
-
-_Avant-main._--That part of the horse forward of the saddle--the
-forehand.
-
-_Bore._--To lean on the bit.
-
-_Bridle-tooth._--Tusk found in the horse's mouth, though not in the
-mare's, between nippers and grinders.
-
-_Bucking._--Leaping vertically into the air with all four feet at once.
-
-_Chin Groove._--That part of underjaw next the swell of lower lip in
-which curb-chain rests.
-
-_Curb._--Bit without joint, with levers at side and chain, which,
-passing under jaw, serves as a fulcrum to communicate pressure of bit
-to bars of mouth.
-
-_Deux Pistes._--To go on _deux pistes_ is to advance with the body
-placed obliquely, so that the hind feet move on a different line or
-_piste_ from the fore.
-
-_Elbow._--Joint of fore-leg next above knee, lying next horse's side.
-
-_Fetlock._--Joint next below knee.
-
-_Forearm._--That part of leg between elbow and knee.
-
-_Forge._--To strike the toe of the fore-foot with the toe of the
-hind-foot--usually the result of bad shoeing.
-
-_Frog._--Triangular piece of spongy horn in middle of sole of foot,
-forming a cushion for the navicular bone.
-
-_Grinders._--Back teeth.
-
-_Hand._--Four inches (one-third of a foot).
-
-_Hand-gallop._--A slow gallop.
-
-_Haute Êcole--Haut Manége._--The complete course of training given in
-the French military riding-schools. To translate this by "high-school,"
-as is sometimes done, produces a ludicrous impression.
-
-_Hock._--Joint of hind-leg between thigh and shank.
-
-_Interfere._--To strike the fetlock with the foot--often caused by bad
-shoeing.
-
-_Manége._--Horse-training, also the training-school itself.
-
-_Nippers._--Front teeth.
-
-_Pace._--A rapid gait, in which the fore and hind foot on same side
-move at same time and strike the ground together.
-
-_Pastern._--Bones between fetlock and foot.
-
-_Passage._--Moving sideways, as to close up or open the ranks, as in
-cavalry exercises.
-
-_Pirouette._--Wheeling on the hind-legs.
-
-_Pirouette renversée._--Wheeling on the fore-legs.
-
-_Piaffer._--A slow and cadenced trot, in which the horse balances a
-certain time on each pair of feet.
-
-_Piste._--The imaginary circle (usually, however, a well-beaten track)
-three feet from the wall of the _manége_.
-
-_Poll._--Top of head between the ears.
-
-_Rack._--A gait somewhat similar to _single-foot_.
-
-_Ramener._--To bring the head to the perpendicular.
-
-_Rassembler._--To get the horse together, with his legs well under him
-and his head perpendicular.
-
-_Shank._--Parts of fore-leg between knee and fetlock, and parts of
-hind-leg between hock and fetlock.
-
-_Single-foot._--A very rapid gait, taught principally in the Western
-States of America, in which one foot is put down at a time.
-
-_Snaffle._--Bit jointed in middle, without side levers or chin-chain.
-
-_Spavins_ and _Splints_.--Excrescences on bones of legs, usually caused
-by strain. When they occur on the fore-shanks they are called splints,
-and may do no harm. If on the hind-legs they are called spavins, and
-usually result in permanent lameness.
-
-_Stifle._--Joint of hind-leg between hip and hock, lying against
-horse's side.
-
-_Surcingle._--A girth extending entirely around the horse.
-
-_Thigh._--Popularly speaking, it comprises the two upper joints of
-hind-leg from hip to hock.
-
-_Throat-latch._--That strap of the bridle which passes under the throat.
-
-_Withers._--Highest point of shoulder between neck and saddle.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON V.
-
-TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE REINS HELD BELOW THE BIT
-(_FLEXIONS DE L'ENCOLURE_).
-
-
-Before beginning each lesson it is well, as has been already
-recommended, to review hastily the instruction previously given.
-
-Now place yourself on the left side of your horse, with your
-riding-whip tip downward in your right hand, and with your feet firmly
-planted a little apart. Take the right curb-rein in your right hand
-at about six inches from the lever of the bit, and the left curb-rein
-in your left at three inches from the lever, and having brought the
-horse's head to a perpendicular position, pull the two hands steadily
-apart, moving the right hand to the right and the left hand to the
-left, so as to pry the horse's head around to the right by means of
-the twist of the bit in his mouth. If he offers to back, stop him by
-tapping his breast with the whip; if he tries to pull away his head,
-hold on tight, until presently he will turn his head to the right,
-when you will instantly say, "Bravo! bravo!" and after holding it so
-a few seconds, bring it back to its original position. Very soon he
-will take the idea, and you will bring his head around until it faces
-backward, being careful to keep it always exactly perpendicular, and
-not to allow the horse to move it of his own accord in any direction.
-
-[Illustration: "PULLING THE HANDS STEADILY APART."]
-
-Now try to obtain this flexion with the right-hand rein alone, only
-using the left hand to assist it if he fails to understand or to obey,
-and also to bring back the head to its original position.
-
-To bend the neck to the left requires simply a reversal of the process
-just described, and will give you probably no trouble. Do not be
-satisfied with anything else than an easy, graceful, and patient
-obedience on the part of the horse. Should he back or fidget out of
-his place, bring him back to it before going on, as you will find that
-his associations (unconscious, doubtless) with place are remarkable,
-and that any fault is likely to be repeated on the spot where it was
-first committed.
-
-[Illustration: TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT OR LEFT, WITH THE REINS BELOW
-THE BITS.]
-
-When he will look backward on either side, and remain looking so upon
-your drawing upon the proper rein, the lesson is perfect. The utility
-of it may not appear at first, but will be evident at a later stage of
-your instructions.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON VI.
-
-TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE REINS THROWN OVER THE NECK.
-
-
-Take the left snaffle-rein in the left hand at about a foot from the
-bit, and with the right hand draw the right snaffle-rein over the
-horse's neck just in front of the shoulder, until both sides pull
-equally on the bit and the horse is "light in hand." Then, by drawing
-upon the right rein gradually, bend his head around to the right,
-gently feeling the left rein so as to keep the bit straight in the
-mouth and prevent him from moving faster than you wish; for in this, as
-in all other cases, while he is to do exactly what you direct, he is to
-do nothing more.
-
-[Illustration: GETTING THE HORSE "LIGHT IN HAND."]
-
-To bend the neck to the left, you will, of course, reverse the
-operation above described, standing on the other side of the horse,
-taking the right snaffle-rein in the right hand at a foot from the
-bit, and drawing the left rein over the shoulder with the left hand.
-Keep the horse "light in hand" all the time, and his head perfectly
-perpendicular, as any twisting of the nose to one side has a ludicrous
-appearance. Now repeat with the curb.
-
-[Illustration: PULLING ON THE RIGHT REIN.]
-
-
-
-
-LESSON VII.
-
-TO MOVE THE CROUP TO RIGHT AND LEFT WITH THE WHIP.
-
-
-It is unfortunate that we have not in English a vocabulary of definite
-terms relating to the training and riding of horses. We will for
-convenience call all that part of the horse in front of the saddle the
-_forehand_, and all that part back of the saddle the _croup_.
-
-Take both snaffle-reins in the left hand at a few inches from the bit,
-and standing near the horse's left shoulder, get him "light in hand"
-with the bit; and if his hind-legs are not well under him, make him
-bring them forward by tapping him gently on the rump with your extended
-whip, keeping the forehand motionless by your hold on the bit.
-
-Now, holding his head so that he will not move his left fore-foot, tap
-him lightly on the left flank near the hip until he moves the croup one
-step to the right.
-
-Then pat and praise him, and if he has not moved his right fore-foot,
-tap his right leg with the whip to make him bring it forward even with
-the left. After a little rest begin again, asking and allowing only
-one step at a time, and persevering until he will move the croup one
-step over to each tap of the whip, pivoting on the left fore-foot and
-walking the right foot by little steps around it.
-
-[Illustration: MOVING THE CROUP ONE STEP TO THE RIGHT.]
-
-When he is perfect with the snaffle, repeat the process with the curb,
-keeping his hind-legs well under him, and holding him "light in hand,"
-while maintaining his left fore-foot immovable, with a delicate touch,
-to resemble as much as possible the action of the rein when drawn from
-the saddle.
-
-Now repeat the process to the left, taking your stand near the right
-shoulder, and, with both snaffle-reins in your right hand and the whip
-in your left, proceed as before until the horse will walk one step at
-each tap of the whip around the right fore-foot, which should in its
-turn be kept so firmly in place as to bore a hole in the ground. Repeat
-with the curb.
-
-This lesson, which will last, very likely, two or three days, may
-appear to some of no practical utility, but it is indispensable alike
-to your comfort when mounted, to the safety of those who accompany
-or meet you, and to the continued education of your horse. Who has
-not seen an untrained animal force his rider to dismount to lift some
-gate-latch which was really within easy reach, or prancing about in a
-crowd, to the terror and vexation of his neighbors, or in momentary
-danger of hooking his legs into the wheels of passing vehicles?
-
-Now, if you trample on any one, or upset a light vehicle, though
-you risk, and perhaps break, your own bones, yet you are liable for
-damages; and this fact is so well known that a suit will be promptly
-begun against you. Besides, for your own sake you must have it in your
-power to get your horse's haunches, and with them your own person, out
-of danger from careless or mischievous drivers--just as a cavalryman
-has to save his horse from a slash or thrust.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON VIII.
-
-MOUNTED.
-
-
-_To Advance at Touch of Heel and Stop at Touch of Whip on Back._--Your
-horse's education must now be carried on from the saddle, and should
-he never have been ridden, it will be prudent to have a man mount him
-first upon a man's saddle, and afterwards upon your side-saddle, with
-a blanket wrapped around the legs to simulate a skirt. If the previous
-lessons have been carefully given, you will have no trouble in making
-him stand wherever you please while you mount, nor in getting him
-"light in hand" afterwards. First, however, see that the saddle fits
-snugly in its place, and that the girths are good and in order. If
-there are more than two, let the third be loose while the others are
-tight. The writer once saw a powerful horse burst two good English
-girths by a sudden bound and throw off his rider, saddle and all. If
-the girths and saddle are not very strong, put a broad, thin strap--a
-surcingle will do--over all.
-
-[Illustration: GETTING A HORSE ACCUSTOMED TO SKIRTS.
-
-(An example of the "flying trot.")]
-
-Being mounted, gather the reins all into the left hand in the following
-manner: Draw the right snaffle-rein between the fore and middle
-fingers, and the left snaffle rein under the little finger into the
-palm, throwing the ends forward together over the first finger, to be
-held by the thumb; in like manner draw the curb-reins into the palm on
-each side of the ring-finger, the left rein, of course, below, and the
-right above it, throwing the ends, like those of the snaffle, forward
-over the fore-finger and under the thumb. Now taking the curb-rein by
-the seam, draw it through your fingers till both reins fall equally on
-the bit; then do the same by the snaffle, but draw it so much tighter
-than the curb that the latter will hang loose, and any movement of your
-hand will be felt through the snaffle. Grasp all the reins firmly, your
-hand back upward, with wrist a little bent and elbow near your side, so
-that if the horse, stumbling, thrust his nose suddenly out, you will
-not be jerked from the saddle.
-
-[Illustration: SHOWING REINS IN LEFT HAND.]
-
-All this you will quickly get the knack of, and do as easily as you
-would thread a needle. You will observe that, having the width of three
-fingers between the two snaffle-reins, you can, by bending your wrist
-to right or left, guide the horse as easily as with the reins in both
-hands. Get the horse "light in hand" by the usual play of the bit,
-first the curb, then the snaffle, tapping him on the right side, just
-forward of the girth, if he fails to respond or offers to back.
-
-[Illustration: ADVANCING AT TOUCH OF HEEL.]
-
-Now press him just back of the girth with your left heel, at the same
-time relaxing the rein a little. If he steps forward, pat and praise
-him, but if not, press him more firmly, at the same time touching him
-as before with the whip. When he moves forward praise him, and after a
-few seconds stop him, leaning back a little and laying your whip by a
-turn of the wrist on his back just behind the saddle. Then recommence,
-and persevere until he will start promptly forward at the touch of the
-heel, and stop at the touch of the whip on his back, keeping "light
-in hand" the while. If he is very sluggish you may have to strike him
-smartly for not answering instantly to the heel, but he will soon
-learn not to wait for the blow. Let the heel act close to the girth,
-as you will soon wish to move the croup over by the same means applied
-farther back. It is well not to start with the whip, nor by chirping or
-clucking, which is as likely to excite your companion's horse as your
-own, and is annoying to most people.
-
-[Illustration: STOPPING AT TOUCH OF WHIP ON BACK.]
-
-Accustom your horse to stop short, whether at the pull on the reins,
-the touch of the whip, or the word "Whoa."
-
-After riding have the saddle removed, and should a puffy spot appear
-on the back where it has pressed, take the hint at once and have the
-padding eased over the place, or a tedious and vexatious "saddle-gall"
-may result. There is no better treatment for such a spot than bathing
-with very hot water. As a preventive, however, it is an excellent plan
-to bathe the back with cold water, afterwards carefully rubbing dry.
-
-[Illustration: THE WALK (COLT IN TRAINING).]
-
-The several instruments of torture represented in the above cut are the
-_dumb-jockey_ upon the horse's back, the _cavesson_ around his nose,
-and the _lunging-cord_ in the hands of the groom--to whom the artist
-has very properly given the countenance of one who, had he lived in
-old times, would have lent a hand at the rack or the iron boot without
-wincing. The dumb-jockey has elastic reins, which are adjusted so
-as to hold the head in the proper position. The cavesson is a broad
-leather band, stiffened with iron, which is fastened around the nose
-just where the cartilage joins the bone, so that a tug upon it causes
-great pain, and will bring anything but determined vice to submission.
-These appliances are usually only the resort of laziness or ignorance,
-for none of them can for a moment compare with the human hand; and in
-fact they effect no saving in time, for it is not safe to leave a horse
-a minute alone with a dumb-jockey on his back, as he may rear and fall
-over backward at the risk of his life. The writer knew of an accident
-of this kind which ended the victim's usefulness in the saddle, and he
-has seen a strong and proud horse sweat profusely, with the thermometer
-at ten degrees below the freezing point, while being _lunged_, _i.e._,
-driven in a ring, with a dumb-jockey on.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON IX.
-
-MOUNTED.
-
-
-_To Bend the Neck to Right and Left._--You can now, if you please,
-substitute a stiff _crop_ for the flexible whip you have so far made
-use of. Having taken your place in the saddle and got your horse light
-in hand review the previous lesson; then, having your horse still
-carefully light in hand and light on foot--that is, with hind-feet
-well under him--draw gently upon the left snaffle-rein. When the
-horse's head has come around to your knee, keep it in that position
-an instant, and then put it straight again by drawing upon the right
-rein, insisting that his face remains perpendicular during the whole
-operation. Now go through the same process with the right snaffle-rein,
-and then repeat the whole operation with the curb. These flexions of
-the neck may now seem to you of doubtful utility, but as the education
-of the horse advances, your opinion will change. It is as rare for
-horses as for people to have a noble and graceful carriage; and while
-you cannot, of course, really change the shape of your mount, yet you
-can, by care, entirely change his appearance. His various gaits you
-can indeed improve, but for his _style_ he depends, nine times out of
-ten, entirely upon you, and if you are indifferent he will be careless
-and probably clumsy.
-
-[Illustration: BENDING THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT.]
-
-
-
-
-LESSON X.
-
-THE WALK.
-
-
-This gait is apt to be hardly appreciated by youthful equestrians,
-whose love of excitement leads them often to prefer rapidity to grace
-of motion; but it can, with a little painstaking, be made swift and
-agreeable; and certainly, when light and animated, it shows off both
-horse and rider to better advantage than any other. It is, besides,
-an indispensable stage in the bitting of the horse; for until he will
-continue "light" while starting, stopping, and turning at a walk, he
-should not be put to a faster pace.
-
-Your chief difficulty will be his propensity to drop into a jog-trot
-as soon as you try to quicken his steps; but this must be overcome by
-stopping him immediately and then recommencing the walk, urging him
-forward with the heel and encouraging him to lift his feet quickly by
-a delicate play of the bit, but leaving his head as free as possible.
-This will give you occupation, probably, for several days. Do not
-forget to praise him when he does well.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XI.
-
-TO MOVE THE CROUP WITH HEEL AND WHIP (_PIROUETTE RENVERSÉE_).
-
-
-Having your horse light in hand and light on foot (that is to say, as
-we have before explained, with his face perpendicular, the bit held
-lightly, and his weight well supported on his hind-legs), tap him on
-the right flank with your whip or "crop" till he moves the croup one
-step to the left. Your great difficulty will be to prevent him from
-moving his right fore-foot, which by careful play of the bit you must
-endeavor to keep fixed to the ground, while at each tap of the whip the
-other three feet move one step around it. When this lesson has been
-satisfactorily learned, proceed to teach in like manner the movement
-of croup to the right, pivoting on the left fore-foot, substituting,
-however, for the tap of the whip a pressure with the left heel, applied
-as far behind the girth as possible.
-
-[Illustration: MOVING THE CROUP WITH THE HEEL AND WHIP.]
-
-Should he not understand this pressure, interpret it to him with the
-whip. As long as there seems to be any mental effort required on his
-part, pause after each step to caress and praise him. Be careful to
-keep him calm while learning, or he may tread one foot upon the
-other, possibly inflicting a severe wound, and after dismounting
-inspect his feet carefully to make sure that this has not happened.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XII.
-
-TO GUIDE "BRIDLEWISE."
-
-
-Up to this time your horse has been guided as in driving, by a pull
-upon one side of the bit, that is to say, upon one corner of the mouth,
-and it is time now to substitute a simple pressure of the rein upon
-his neck. The chief difficulty to be encountered is in the fact that,
-as the rein is attached to the bit, the tension of it against one side
-of the neck pulls the bit on that side, consequently conveying to the
-horse an impression exactly opposite to that intended. This difficulty
-must be overcome by patience, for this instruction cannot be completed
-in a single lesson, but will have to be carried on simultaneously with
-other work for a week or more. It is given by carrying your hand over,
-whenever you turn, to the side towards which you wish to go, so that
-the reins will press against the neck. Thus, if you wish to turn to the
-left, draw on the left snaffle-rein, and as the horse answers to it,
-carry your hand to the left, so that the right reins press against the
-right side of the neck. This must be done with judgment, or the bit,
-being pulled too hard on the right side by the tension of the rein on
-the neck, will stop him in his turn. Of course you will seek as many
-occasions as possible for turning, choosing, in preference, places
-where your intention cannot be misunderstood, as at a corner, for
-instance. There is no better spot than some old orchard, for the horse
-instantly takes the idea of going around a tree, and there will be more
-or less shade, and probably good turf. While he is learning this lesson
-do not distract his attention by other instruction; but as soon as he
-has mastered it, see that his head is always turned in the direction
-towards which he is to go, for it is a habit with horses, as awkward
-as it is common, to turn one way and look the other. At the same time
-always lean in your saddle towards the centre of the curve you are
-describing, and at an angle increasing in proportion to your speed.
-
-[Illustration: GUIDING BRIDLEWISE (TURNING TO THE RIGHT).]
-
-Some English writers depreciate the above method of guiding the horse,
-preferring to use the bit exclusively, but it is almost universal in
-the United States, and its advantages for ordinary riders are numerous
-and evident. Indeed, Stonehenge, a well-known English authority, says
-that in "this way a horse can be turned with a much greater degree of
-nicety and smoothness than by acting on the corner of his mouth."
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XIII.
-
-THE TROT.
-
-
-Writers on the horse distinguish three kinds of trot, _viz._, the
-"jog" trot, the "true" trot, and the "flying" or "American" trot. In
-the first the feet remain longer on the ground than in the air, and
-lazy animals are naturally fond of it, while spirited horses sometimes
-drop into it from impatience of walking. It is, however, apt to be
-a slovenly gait, which, though easy to the rider, should hardly be
-permitted.
-
-In the flying trot the horse leaps a considerable distance through
-the air at each stride--evidently a mode of progression unsuited for
-ladies, who must attain speed in trotting by quickening the step
-without undue lengthening of the stride.
-
-Your first care will be to prevent your horse from losing his
-"lightness," as he will be inclined to do at every change of gait or
-increase of speed--and this, while often by no means easy, is yet a
-task to be thoroughly accomplished if you wish for comfort or style
-in the future. You will observe in trotting, as in all other gaits,
-at each step a slight tug on the rein, called by some writers the
-_appel_, and this you will ordinarily yield your hand to, so as to keep
-a steady feeling of the mouth.
-
-If, however, the horse begins to bear on the bit, hold your hand
-firmly, with the rein just so tight that at every step he will himself
-thrust his jaw against the curb. This will very likely bring him to his
-senses and restore his lightness, and if so, pat and praise him; but if
-not, tap him on the side with your whip, at the same time pulling on
-the curb for a second or two. If he does not yield to this, repeated
-two or three times, stop him short; and when, by the same method, you
-have got him to relax his gripe of the bit and arch his neck, allow him
-to go on again. He will dislike excessively to be stopped and started
-in this way, and when he finds that he will not be permitted to go in
-any way but the right one he will give up the attempt.
-
-Do not try to succeed by giving a long, steady pull, nor by using
-force, as it will do no good, and may cause the tongue to be put over
-the bit--a very troublesome trick. Remember, in stopping, to lean back,
-and lay your whip, by a movement of the wrist, on the horse's back.
-
-You will next turn your attention to your horse's gait. As the trot
-is rarely so easy that a lady can sit down to it with comfort, it is
-advisable to rise in the stirrup.
-
-This is difficult and fatiguing if the stride is too long, and you
-will therefore prevent its extending too much by giving a little tug
-on the rein just as each step is made, at the same time with the heel
-keeping up speed and animation.
-
-If your bitting has been thoroughly done, and your horse's mouth
-is fine and sensitive, you will probably find the snaffle best for
-trotting, and you will give a steady support with it.
-
-Keep the step quick, elastic, perfectly cadenced, and without any
-rolling of the shoulders.
-
-Should you happen to be mounted upon a horse which, from bad handling
-or his own faulty conformation, is disposed to "bore," or bear on his
-bit, you will ride with the curb, taking its reins in one hand, but
-in the other hand taking the snaffle, with the left rein drawn much
-tighter than the right. This will have an effect quite different from
-what one might expect, and will put a stop to this most fatiguing and
-annoying trick.
-
-This recipe is not found in Baucher's book, but is said to have been
-given by him verbally to his pupils, and it is really "a trick worth
-knowing." If it does not have the desired effect, however, when
-practised with the left snaffle-rein, try it with the right, as the
-mouth--for instance, from the effect of double harness--may not be
-equally sensitive on both sides.
-
-If you observe that the step of one foot is shorter than that of the
-other, making the horse appear lame, you may be almost sure you have
-fallen into the too common feminine practice of bearing too much of
-your weight on one side. An even balance in the saddle is of capital
-importance, and a rough-and-ready test is to observe whether the
-buttons of your habit are in the same plane as the horse's backbone,
-and your shoulders nearly equidistant from his ears--points of which
-you can judge as well as any one.
-
-In the matter of the horse's gait you must be equally exacting, not
-resting so long as you can perceive the slightest irregularity or
-difference between the strides. It is desirable to cultivate such
-a sensitiveness to all the horse's movements as will enable you to
-know where his feet are at all times without looking, and the first
-step towards this is to learn to "sit close to the saddle." This firm
-and easy seat, coveted by every rider, is attained by some with much
-greater difficulty than by others. Many riders will bump about on their
-saddles for thousands of miles without being "shaken into their seat,"
-because they neither abandon themselves to the instinct which correctly
-guides a child, nor, on the other hand, seek out and remove the cause,
-in the muscular contractions of the body and limbs.
-
-A loose sack of grain set upright on horseback does not jump up and
-down, and, while it is not desirable to be quite so inert as a bag of
-grain, yet a lesson may be learned from it--which is, that the lower
-part of the person, from the hips to the knees, should be kept firmly
-and steadily, though not stiffly, in place, while the waist, with the
-back bent slightly inward, should be as flexible as possible, and the
-whole upper part of the person pliant and supple, so as to yield with a
-certain _nonchalance_ to every movement.
-
-Nervous riders, like nervous horses, are those in whom involuntary
-muscular contractions persist the most obstinately.
-
-As both of the horse's strides are equal when the trot is true, it
-seems nonsense to talk, as some writers do, about the "leading foot" in
-trotting; and except that few horses are so perfectly symmetrical that
-both strides are equally elastic, there should be no difference to a
-man on which one he "rises," and he will therefore spare that foot and
-leg which, for any cause, he may suppose to be the weaker. A lady will
-without effort find the stride best suited to her.
-
-Horses are often trained in our Western States to trot when the rider
-touches the back of their neck, and to single-foot or pace when he
-makes play gently with the curb-bit. These signals are injudicious,
-because in harness a slight movement of the bit sets the horse so
-trained to single-footing, and there is no way to communicate to him
-your wish that he should trot. It is better, therefore, to give the
-signal to trot by taking a firm hold of the snaffle, and laying your
-whip gently on his hind-quarter while you incite to speed with your
-heel.
-
-After dismounting, observe whether your horse has _interfered_--that
-is, struck one or more of his fetlock joints with his hoofs; should
-the skin be knocked off, apply some healing ointment; and if the joint
-swells, bathe with water as hot as the hand will bear. This is the best
-remedy for all ordinary bruises and sprains.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XIV.
-
-THE GALLOP, HAND-GALLOP, AND CANTER.
-
-
-These are treated of by some writers as distinct, the canter being
-called "purely artificial;" but it will be convenient and sufficiently
-accurate for our purpose to take them up together and to consider the
-canter as what it in fact is--an _improved_, and not an "artificial,"
-gait. Horses undoubtedly often canter in a rude way without being
-taught, as may be seen often in the field, and not seldom in harness,
-and you will probably have little trouble in getting your horse to do
-the same. It is this natural canter which is called by country people
-the "lope." It is of importance, however, that your horse should not
-change his gait without orders, no matter how hard pressed, this being
-especially true if he is to be driven as well as ridden. The signal
-to canter should, therefore, be such as can be given only from the
-saddle. It is well not to use the whip for the purpose, but to try by
-raising the bridle to lift the forehand, while stimulating at the same
-time with the heel. Should he persist in trotting, do not get vexed
-or discouraged, for he is only resisting temptation to do what he
-has expressly been taught not to do; but continue your incitements,
-raising the bridle-hand firmly at every stride till you have got him
-fairly off his feet into a gallop, when you will soothe his nerves by
-patting and praising him, and gradually calm him down into a canter,
-lifting your hand at every stride to prevent his relapsing into a trot.
-When he will canter promptly at the signal, you will get him "light
-in hand" before giving it; then make him start without thrusting out
-his nose, and keep him light by the means already detailed in the
-lesson on the trot. Next you will bring his haunches forward under him,
-which is the great point, and increase the brilliancy of his action by
-stimulating him with heel and whip, while at each step you restrain
-him by a gentle pull, so that he will not spring forward so far as he
-intended. Persevere until he will canter as slowly as he would walk.
-Your best guide will be to observe the action of some well-trained and
-well-ridden horse, and to endeavor to obtain the same in yours.
-
-[Illustration: THE CANTER.]
-
-To _change the leading foot_ in cantering is, however, a more difficult
-matter, and we will postpone the consideration of it until his
-education is a little farther advanced. In the mean time you will avoid
-turning a sharp corner at a canter.
-
-The hand-gallop is simply a moderate gallop in which the ear observes
-three beats,
-
-[Music]
-
-as in the canter, but swifter; while in the extended gallop it hears
-but two,
-
-[Music]
-
-though given with a sort of rattle, which shows that neither the fore
-nor the hind feet strike the ground exactly together, as they do in
-leaping.
-
-_Keep to the left, as the law directs_, is an admonition on bridges and
-other thoroughfares in England which has often excited the surprise of
-Americans, very likely eliciting some such comment as "How stupid!"
-"How perfectly ridiculous!" Yet for many centuries it was really the
-only safe way to turn, whether on foot or on horseback, and as all our
-fashions of riding and driving are based upon it, it is hard to see why
-the custom should have changed in this country. In the olden time, when
-people went about principally on horseback, when roads were lonely and
-footpads plenty, it would have been "perfectly ridiculous" for a man to
-turn to the right and expose his defenceless bridle-arm to a blow from
-a bludgeon or slash from a hanger. Much more would it have been so had
-he a lady under his care, who would thus be left in the very front of
-danger, whether it might be of robbery from highwaymen, of insult from
-roistering riders, or of simple injury from passing vehicles. At the
-present day and in this country the danger last mentioned is the only
-one really to be feared, and it is so considerable that the question is
-often raised whether a lady be not safer at the right of her cavalier;
-but the still greater danger in this case of her being crushed between
-the horses, in case of either one springing suddenly towards the other,
-has caused it thus far to be decided in the negative. There is also
-always a possibility--slight, doubtless--of a lady's getting kicked or
-bitten when on the right; and it might be difficult for her companion,
-without risk to her limbs, to seize her horse by the head should he
-become refractory. In case of its becoming absolutely necessary to take
-a terrified or exhausted rider off of an unmanageable horse, there
-would probably be time for her escort to cross behind her and place
-himself at her left hand.
-
-Now that we are on the subject, we may give a word of caution as to
-some other dangers of the road. Among those to the rider, the most
-common is _shying_; but vigilance--and perpetual vigilance will be
-necessary--will reduce this to the rank of simple annoyance. Get your
-horse past the alarming object somehow, even if he has to be led; get
-him up to it if you can, and then pat and praise him; never let him
-hurry off after passing it; never whip him afterwards.
-
-Rearing is less common than shying, but more dangerous from the risk
-of pulling the horse over backward. To rear he must, of course, spring
-up with the fore-legs, and if his intention can be divined in time it
-may perhaps be frustrated by a smart stroke down the shoulder; but an
-active animal is usually up before his rider has had time to think, and
-the question is how to come safe down again. To this end, on no account
-pull on the bit, but, without letting go the rein, grasp a thick
-lock of the mane and hold yourself with it as close to the neck as
-possible--which will throw your weight in the best place, and prepare
-you to leap down, should it be necessary. If you have kept perfectly
-calm, so that the horse has not suspected that you were frightened,
-he will doubtless come down on his feet, and very likely may not rear
-again. If, however, you feel his hind-legs sink under him, he will be
-intending to throw himself down, and you must jump down instantly to
-avoid getting caught under the saddle.
-
-Kicking, when coming unexpectedly, is more likely than rearing to
-unseat the rider. If you withstand the first assault, however, get the
-horse's head up by an energetic use of the bit, and look out that he
-does not get it down again. It is needless to say that should either of
-the last two tricks become a habit, it will make the horse quite unfit
-for a lady's use.
-
-If your horse is restless and disposed to jump, or perhaps run, when
-horses or vehicles rapidly approach him from behind, occupy his
-attention by moving the bit a little from side to side in his mouth.
-
-Running away is undoubtedly serious business, but all authorities agree
-that the safest plan is to let the horse run, if there is room, and
-that the best lesson for him is to make him continue running after he
-wishes to stop. A steady pull on the bit is quite useless, and so is
-any cry of "Whoa! whoa!" at first. But after a little the bit should
-be vigorously _sawed_, so as to sway the head from side to side if
-possible, and thus confuse him, while you speak to him in a commanding
-tone.
-
-The dangers to the horse upon the road, however, are greater and more
-numerous than to yourself, but they may almost all be averted by care
-and watchfulness on your part. Beware of a fast pace on hard macadam;
-beware of loose stones, which may bruise the frog or cause a tedious
-sprain; beware of food, water, above all, of currents of air when he is
-warm.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XV.
-
-THE PIROUETTE, DEUX PISTES, PASSAGE.
-
-
-In the _pirouette ordinaire_ of the French _manége_ the horse turns
-upon one of his hind-legs, walking on the other three around it, just
-as in the _pirouette renversée_ of Lesson XI. he turned upon one of
-the fore-legs, around which he walked upon the other three; and now, as
-then, the chief difficulty is to keep him from moving the leg which is
-to serve as a pivot. The means for accomplishing this you have already
-acquired, and a pressure of the heel on the one side, or of the crop
-on the other, will prevent an intended movement of the croup, while
-by the rein against the neck you move the forehand to the one side or
-to the other. In wheeling to the left it is the left hind-foot, and
-to the right the right hind-foot, which serves as a pivot. If your
-horse is stiff and clumsy in this exercise it will probably be because
-you have not got him together, with his hind-legs well under him, but
-at best you will probably find him less supple on one side than the
-other. Begin by moving the forehand but one step at a time, keeping
-your horse calm, so that he may not wound one foot with the other,
-holding your own person motionless, and gradually accustoming him to
-slight and delicate effects of hand, heel, and whip, so that he may to
-a by-stander appear to move of his own volition.
-
-[Illustration: ORDINARY PIROUETTE.]
-
-The _piste_ (literally "trail" or "track") in the French _manége_ is
-an imaginary circle lying three feet distant from the wall; which
-imaginary line, however, becomes in practice a well-defined path, which
-the horse soon learns to follow with little guidance from his rider. To
-go, then, "on two _pistes_" is to cause the horse to advance with his
-body placed obliquely, so that the hind-feet move on a different line
-from the fore-feet. In the cut the horse is shown directly across the
-_piste_.
-
-[Illustration: GOING ON "DEUX PISTES."]
-
-The _passage_ is a side movement without advancing. By it the cavalry
-close up their ranks, and to a civilian it is useful in many ways. Both
-of these movements you are now able to execute at pleasure.
-
-[Illustration: THE PASSAGE.]
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XVI.
-
-BACKING.
-
-
-This lesson has been deferred thus far because, while it is one of the
-most practically and frequently useful, yet it is also the method which
-the horse naturally takes to escape from the unwonted constraint put
-upon the muscles of his neck and jaw in the course of the preceding
-lessons. You have had, therefore, to be on your guard hitherto against
-it; and had you taught it earlier you would have found your horse
-cunning enough to pretend to believe every play of the bit to be a
-signal to step back, and thus protract the instruction.
-
-Having, then, got your horse, as usual, well in hand, lean back and
-give a pull on the reins. If he steps back, well; if not, touch him
-with the heel or tap his side with the crop, and when he lifts his foot
-to step forward repeat the pull on the reins, when the foot will be
-replaced farther back; then pat and praise him, and persevere until he
-will, at each tug of the reins, move backward one step and no more.
-
-Should he swerve to right or left, straighten him by a tap or pressure
-of the crop on his right side, or by the pressure of the heel on the
-left, as the case may require.
-
-[Illustration: BACKING.]
-
-Your horse having learned to obey the pressure of the rein upon the
-neck, you may now, if you choose, adopt another method of holding the
-reins. It differs from that described in Lesson XIII. in that the two
-snaffle reins, instead of being separated by three fingers, have only
-one--the middle finger--between them; while the curb-reins, instead of
-coming into the hand between the snaffle-reins, come in below, having
-the little finger inserted between them.
-
-[Illustration: REINS IN HAND.]
-
-This method, though formerly the one usually taught, being that adopted
-by the English cavalry, has not, on the whole, as many advantages as
-the other for a civilian.
-
-[Illustration: ACT OF CHANGING REINS.]
-
-If you have occasion to use the left hand, or wish to rest it, change
-the reins into the right hand by placing the right, still holding the
-whip, over and in front of the left, both palms downward, inserting
-the right fore-finger between the reins separated by the left little
-finger, and so on, then grasping all together with the whip, and
-allowing the ends to pass out to the right.
-
-This does not disarrange the reins, but makes it possible for you to
-take them back into the left hand in an instant by passing the left
-hand in like manner over the right.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XVII.
-
-RIDING IN CIRCLES.--CHANGE OF LEADING FOOT.
-
-
-You are now prepared to practise with profit a simple exercise, which
-you will find interesting to yourself, and, if carefully done, very
-improving to your horse. It is the riding in circles of small diameter.
-Mark out a number of rings of various sizes in some pasture-field with
-white pebbles or beans or small scraps of white paper, which may be
-scattered at intervals of two or three feet, so that the figures may
-not be remarked by the horse, but that he may receive his instruction
-from you only. Let the circles touch one another, so that you may
-change from one into the other, and thus turn to the right and left
-alternately. Begin at a walk, then proceed to a trot, practising first
-on the large circles, and then taking the smaller ones. Keep your
-horse "light in hand," and do not let him place his body across the
-line, but make him follow it accurately, with his neck and body bent
-around to the curve which it describes. When he is perfect in this
-exercise on level ground, move to some hill-side and begin again. When
-he can do figure 8's of a small size accurately at a smart trot on a
-pretty steep slope, you may congratulate your self on having made good
-progress, and may begin to do the large circles on level ground at a
-canter. Here comes in the troublesome matter of the "leading foot,"
-and if you do not understand it, you must not be discouraged, for many
-persons ride "hit or miss" their whole lives long without thinking or
-knowing anything about it. The expression, besides, is misleading, and
-you will do well to study up the subject first on straight lines. Get
-a friend to canter beside you, and observe the motion of his horse's
-feet. You will see that the two fore-feet and the two hind-feet strike
-the ground not only one later than the other, but one in advance of the
-other, and that the one which leaves the ground last steps past the
-other and is planted farthest forward. It is this foot taking the long
-stride which is called, although it moves last, the "leading foot."
-
-[Illustration: LEADING WITH THE RIGHT FORE-FOOT.]
-
-It ought not to make any difference to the horse with which foot he
-leads, nor to his rider, if a man, so long as he follows a straight
-line; but whenever he has to turn, it becomes both to horse and rider
-of importance--if the curve is sharp, of very great importance--that he
-should lead on the side towards which he is to turn.
-
-A little observation of your companion's horse when turning will make
-the reason clear to you. A woman's seat being on the left side of the
-horse, it is easier for her that the shoulder having the most motion
-should be on the right side, and ladies' saddle-horses are consequently
-trained to lead with the right foot; the result, we may remark, often
-being that the fore-foot which does most work gives out before the
-others.
-
-[Illustration: LEADING WITH THE LEFT FORE-FOOT.]
-
-The horse so trained, however, is in this way always ready to wheel
-to the right; but when he turns to the left, whether carrying man or
-woman, he must change and lead with the left foot; and if he has not
-sense enough to do so himself, you must teach him.
-
-This, really, is not an easy task for an amateur, especially for
-the amateur feminine, who has not the efficient masculine resource
-of a pair of spurred heels. Even with their aid a man is often so
-embarrassed to make his horse comprehend that he gives up the attempt,
-and contents himself with "slowing down" before turning, his failure
-usually resulting from the insufficient previous training of the horse,
-coupled with his own ignorance of the successive short steps by which
-the latter may be led up to the performance of the wished-for act.
-
-If you have been exact in the instruction hitherto given--if your
-bitting has been so thorough that your horse remains "light in hand"
-during all the manoeuvres described in the foregoing lessons; if he
-responds instantly to the pressure of the rein upon the neck, and to
-the touch of the heel and of the whip upon the flank, so that you can
-move the forehand and the croup separately or at the same time in the
-same or in opposite directions; if he will rise from a walk into a
-canter without trotting; and if, finally, your drilling in the flexions
-of the neck permits you to bend his head to right or left when at rest
-or in motion without affecting the position of the forehand--then your
-horse is thoroughly prepared for the present lesson; and the same tact
-and patience which have brought you on thus far will assuredly carry
-you triumphantly through it.
-
-First, however, you should learn to tell with which foot you are
-leading, and you can do so by leaning forward in the saddle while
-cantering, when you will see that the knee of the leading leg is thrown
-up higher than its fellow, and by bending still farther you may see
-this foot planted in advance upon the ground. If your horse has never
-been trained, it is as likely to be one foot as the other. Now, the
-first step to be taken is to put your horse in such a position that it
-will be easy and natural for him to lead off with the desired foot,
-and awkward to lead off with the other. This position is with the head
-turned in the direction you wish to go, and with the croup advanced
-a little in the same direction, so that the body is placed obliquely
-across the line of advance. Thus, if you wish to lead with the right
-foot, you keep his head turned in the direction you wish to go, while
-with the heel you move the croup over two steps to the right; then,
-touching him with the heel and raising the hand, you give the signal to
-canter, and he will probably lead off with the right foot. If not, stop
-him and try again, giving him a sharp cut with your whip just behind
-the right shoulder. To lead with the left the process is reversed, the
-croup being moved two steps to the left before the signal to canter is
-given, a sudden dig with the heel behind the shoulder conveying to
-the horse the hint to hurry forward his left leg. You can now begin
-to canter on the circles you have marked out; you will, however,
-at first come down to a walk before changing from one circle to an
-adjoining one--which change, of course, reverses the curve, and makes
-it necessary to change the leading foot.
-
-This figure eight riding, thus, [infinity sign], is most useful both
-for horse and rider when it is carefully done. Keep the horse "light in
-hand," and above all, _collected_--_viz._, with his haunches well under
-him, and always with his feet exactly in the circle and his neck and
-body bent to the curve. As soon as he will lead off correctly from a
-walk, begin to teach him to do so from the trot; and when this lesson
-has been learned, practise him on the double circles, or figure 8's,
-beginning at a trot, and lifting him into a canter just as you pass from
-one circle to the other. This will accustom him to the idea of a change
-of movement at the time of a change in direction. Having got him to
-canter, continue on the same circle many times around and around, then
-bring him to a trot, and pass to the adjoining circle, lifting him to a
-canter just as you turn into it, as before, but of course leading with
-the opposite foot. Make your circles smaller and smaller, and continue
-till he has had time to appreciate the importance of leading correctly;
-then try to make him change at a canter, choosing for the purpose one
-of your smallest figure 8's, and indicating to him the change of foot
-on the same spot and in the same way as when you began by trotting, and
-you will no doubt be immediately successful.
-
-If the horse in changing the lead of the fore-feet does not make the
-corresponding change with the hind-feet, he is said to be _disunited_.
-This fault must be corrected immediately, as it renders his gait not
-only uncomfortable to the rider, but very insecure.
-
-
-
-
-PART II.
-
-ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE.
-
-
-There is a large class of excellent people who feel a decided
-impatience at the very name of etiquette. "It is all nonsense," they
-say, and they will give you various infallible receipts for getting
-on without such an objectionable article. One admonishes you to be
-"natural," and your manners will leave nothing to be desired. Another
-sagaciously defines politeness to be "kindness kindly expressed," and
-intimates that if your heart is right your deportment cannot fail to
-be so too. All these philosophizings, however, give little comfort to
-the bashful young person just venturing into society, for unfortunately
-few of us are so happily constituted as always to think, much less
-to say and do, exactly the right thing at the right time, and the
-most unobservant presently discovers, very likely at the cost of no
-small mortification, that the usages of society, even when apparently
-arbitrary, cannot be disregarded with impunity. In the etiquette of
-the saddle, however, common-sense takes so decidedly precedence of
-the arbitrary and conventional that no courageous, kind-hearted,
-and sensible young girl, however inexperienced, need be afraid of
-committing any fatal solecism. The reason of this is that the element
-of danger is never entirely absent, and that the importance of assuring
-the safety and comfort of yourself and companions, to say nothing of
-lookers-on and passers-by, or of the noble and valuable animal you
-ride, far transcends that of observing any mere forms and ceremonies.
-
-
-DRESS.
-
-Fashion at present, both in this country and in England, requires
-that the whole riding costume be as simple as possible, and entirely
-without ornament. Formerly much more latitude was allowed, and very
-pretty effects were produced with braid trimming across the breast,
-a little color at the neck, and a slouched hat with long feather or
-floating veil--witness the picture of the Empress Eugénie when Countess
-Montijo, and many a charming family portrait besides--but now fashion
-pronounces all that sort of thing "bad form," and a word to the wise
-is sufficient. The habit itself must be quite dark, or even black,
-perfectly plain in the waist, with black buttons up to the neck, and
-with a scant, short skirt only just long enough to cover the feet. The
-cuffs and collar must be of plain linen, no color or flutter of ribbon
-being anywhere permissible. The handkerchief must not be thrust in
-the breast, but kept in the saddle pocket, and if a veil is worn, it
-must be short and black. The hair should be so securely put up that
-it will not shake down, and that the hair-pins will not work out. In
-the matter of the hat more freedom of choice is allowed, and in the
-country almost anything may be worn, but wherever there is any pretence
-of dressing, the only correct thing is the regulation silk "cylinder,"
-which, by-the-bye, usually looks better rather low in the crown, and
-which is every way a pleasanter and more serviceable hat than ladies
-who have never worn one are apt to imagine. About the cutting of a
-riding-habit, it may be remarked, there is nothing mysterious, although
-one might think so from the way it is often talked about, especially
-in the advertisements of fashionable tailors, and there is no reason
-in the world why any clever young girl should not make one for herself
-if she chooses. The only eccentricity about it, from the dress-making
-point of view, is the shaping out of a place for the right knee, so
-that the skirt may hang straight and not ruck up, and this can easily
-be managed at home by improvising a horse with a couple of chairs and
-a rolled-up rug, putting the saddle on it, and trying the effect in
-place. Be careful to leave plenty of room across the breast. A couple
-of straps should be sewn inside in the proper place, so that the toe
-or heel of each foot may be inserted to prevent the skirt from rising
-and exposing the feet; and these straps should not be strong, but, on
-the contrary, like all other parts of the skirt, and particularly
-the facing, should be made so as certainly to tear loose instantly
-in case of getting caught in a fall. Before leaving the habit, we
-may remark that the wearer should practise gathering it up, holding
-it in one hand, and walking in it at home, and if possible before a
-mirror. No petticoats ought to be worn, but merino drawers, and easy
-trousers of the same stuff as the rest of the habit. Beware of badly
-made seams, which have a vexatious way, as many a masculine wearer can
-testify, of pinching out a bit of skin at some inopportune moment. The
-trousers should be cut away a little over the instep, and fastened down
-under the sole with straps, which may be either sewed on or attached
-by buttons inside the band, in which case india-rubber is the best
-material, being easy alike on buttons, stuff, and fingers. Corsets
-should be worn as usual, but never laced tight, and it would be better
-that they should not have steel clasps or steel springs, which might
-be dangerous in case of a fall. The boots should be easy, broad-soled,
-low-heeled, and rather laced than buttoned, as less likely on the one
-hand to catch in the stirrup, and on the other to bruise the foot by
-chafing against the saddle. The gloves should be strong, but supple
-and easy, as it is important that every finger should have free and
-independent movement. Tight gloves not only benumb the hands in cold
-weather, but always cause an awkward handling of the reins, and may be
-positively dangerous with a fresh horse. As to the relative merits of
-crop and whip, there is room for difference of opinion. By many persons
-the former is looked upon as a senseless affectation of English ways,
-but the fact is that with a horse regularly trained to the saddle it
-is more useful than a whip, as by its aid a lady can "collect" her
-horse--that is, can make him bring his hind-legs under him, in the same
-way that a man does by the pressure of his calves. If, however, the
-horse has never been trained, and is sluggish or wilful, a whip may be
-more useful. Whichever of the two produces the better results will have
-the more "workmanlike" look and be in the "better form."
-
-
-THE MOUNT.
-
-It is undoubtedly much pleasanter and more exhilarating to ride a
-good and handsome horse than a poor and ugly one, a horse adapted
-to one's size and weight than one too large or too small, too heavy
-or too light; but none of these points are matters of etiquette. On
-this whole subject etiquette makes only one demand, but that one is
-inexorable--it is _perfect neatness_. A lady's mount must be immaculate
-from ear to hoof, in coat and mane and entire equipment. It is in a
-great degree their exquisite neatness that gives such an air of style
-not only to English horsewomen, but to English turn-outs of all kinds,
-which, nevertheless, have not usually the "spick and span new" look of
-fashionable American equipages. On coming out, therefore, prepared
-for a ride, take time to look your horse over swiftly, but keenly,
-noting first that his eye and general appearance indicate good health
-and spirits; secondly, that he has been thoroughly groomed, his mane
-freed from dandruff, his hoofs washed, but not blacked; thirdly, that
-the saddle and bridle are perfectly clean and properly put on. Every
-buckle should have been undone and cleansed, the leather suppled,
-and the bright metal polished; the girths, three in number--never
-fewer than two--should be snug, but not tight enough to impede free
-breathing; the bits in their proper place, that is to say, the snaffle
-just high enough up not to wrinkle the corners of the mouth, and the
-curb considerably lower, with its chain, which should pass below the
-snaffle, lying flat and smooth against the skin in the chin groove;
-finally, the throat-latch loose. While it is not always wise to
-reprimand carelessness on the part of your groom on the spot, it is
-well never to let it pass unnoticed, while, on the other hand, it is
-a good plan always to show appreciation of especial attention to your
-wishes by a kind word or a smile.
-
-
-MOUNTING.
-
-It is rather a trying ordeal for an inexperienced rider to mount a
-tall horse from the ground, even when there are no lookers-on, and
-many a one remains in bondage to chairs and horse-blocks all her life
-long rather than undertake it. The feat, however, is really so much
-easier than it looks, and when well performed makes the rider appear
-so agile and graceful, giving such an air of style and _savoir-faire_
-to the departure, that it is well worth every lady's while to acquire
-it. The first requisite is that the horse should stand still, and for
-this purpose the attendant should have given him some preliminary
-exercise, as the fresh air and bright light are so exhilarating to a
-high-strung horse that he cannot at first restrain his impulse to caper
-about. This preparatory airing should be entered upon invariably as
-calmly as possible, and begun at a walk, for a flurry at starting, and
-especially the use of the whip, will often disturb a horse's nerves
-for hours, making him unpleasant if not dangerous to ride. When the
-horse is brought to the door, let the groom stand directly in front of
-him, holding the bridle not by the rein, but with both hands by each
-cheek, just above the bit. If he is a proud and sensitive animal, do
-not rush up to him excitedly with a slamming of doors and gates, nor
-allow any one else to do so, but approach with gentle steadiness. Stand
-a moment and look him over, give your orders quietly, and pat his neck
-for a moment, speaking pleasantly to him the while, so that he may get
-accustomed to your voice.
-
-[Illustration: READY TO MOUNT.]
-
-Now standing with your right side a few inches from the saddle, facing
-the same way as the horse, and with your left shoulder slightly thrown
-back, place the right hand on the second pommel, holding in it the
-whip, and the reins drawn just tight enough to give a feeling of the
-bit. Your attendant will stand facing you, and as close as convenient,
-and will now stoop forward, with his hands clasped and with his right
-forearm firmly supported on his right thigh. Now with your left hand
-lift your riding-skirt in front, and place your left foot in his hands.
-Let go the skirt, rest your left hand on his shoulder, and giving him
-the cue by bending the right knee, spring up erect on the left foot,
-and, seating yourself sideways on the saddle, place the right knee over
-the horn.
-
-[Illustration: "ONE, TWO, THREE."]
-
-If your attendant is unused to rendering such service, you had better
-make your first essays in some secluded place, in which you can
-instruct him where to stand, just how high to lift your foot, and
-caution him to put forth strength enough to support you steadily,
-without lifting too violently. Do not be deterred by awkwardness on
-his part or on your own from learning to mount from the ground, for
-the more awkward, the better practice for you. Your attendant will now
-lift your skirt above the knee, so that it will hang properly without
-dragging, and then disengaging the stirrup from beneath the skirt, will
-place your left foot in it.
-
-[Illustration: PLACING THE FOOT IN THE STIRRUP.]
-
-Too much care cannot be taken with the position in the saddle, which
-should be exactly as shown in the following cut. The left leg should
-invariably hang perpendicularly from the knee, with the heel depressed,
-and with the foot parallel with the horse's side. The length of the
-stirrup-strap should be such that the knee thus is out of contact with
-the hunting-horn, but near enough to be brought firmly up against
-it by raising the heel. The right knee should rest easily but snugly
-over the pommel, so as to grasp it in case the horse springs. Neither
-foot should be allowed to sway about nor to project so as to be seen
-awkwardly poking out the skirt. If your clothing does not feel quite
-comfortable, rise in your stirrup and shake it down, resting your hand,
-if necessary, on your attendant's shoulder, for it will be very awkward
-should it become disarranged on the road. Now put your handkerchief in
-the saddle pocket, take the reins in the left hand, or in both hands,
-as you prefer, and start the horse by a touch with the heel.
-
-[Illustration: POSITION IN SADDLE.]
-
-It is, of course, the correct thing to mount from the ground, if
-possible, but here again common-sense comes so decidedly to the front
-that it is not too much to say that the sole indispensable requirement
-of an enlightened etiquette is _good-nature_. Certain it is that the
-eye masculine will follow with pleasure, and perhaps with some emotion,
-the movements of the young girl who comes out bright and fresh, gives
-her horse a pat or two, with a lump of sugar, as she glances him
-quickly over, looks kindly at her stable-boy, and then skips gayly
-into the saddle from a chair brought out by a maid, while the same
-eye will rest quite unmoved, except by a spirit of criticism, on the
-self-conscious and selfish damsel, though she be put on in the most
-approved manner by the smartest groom who ever wore top-boots. Mount,
-then, from the ground, if you have some one to put you on and some
-one to hold your horse; or, if the horse will stand without holding,
-cautioning your escort--if you are not sure of his expertness in such
-services--to be sure to raise your foot straight up, and to give you
-warning by counting one, two, so that you may be certain to have the
-leg straightened before he begins to lift, as otherwise the result may
-be the reverse of graceful. When in the saddle, rise in your stirrup,
-as already suggested, and smooth down your dress, meantime thanking
-your escort and telling him how well he did it. This smoothing down
-of the skirt it is a good plan to practise frequently, first standing,
-then at a walk, then at a trot, till you can do it deftly, almost
-without thought, for there is no telling at what inopportune moment it
-may become necessary.
-
-To mount from the ground without assistance is a feat which few ladies
-would voluntarily undertake. It may be accomplished in an emergency,
-however, if the horse is quiet and not too tall, by lowering the
-stirrup sufficiently to reach it with the left foot, and springing up
-with the aid of the hands, the left of which should grasp the mane and
-the right the cantle of the saddle.
-
-
-THE START.
-
-Do not put your horse in motion by a cut with the whip, which would
-be trying to his nerves, nor by chirping or clucking, which would be
-equally trying to the nerves of your companions, but by a touch with
-the heel, or a pressure between your heel on the left side and your
-crop on the right. If other ladies are to be mounted, move on so far
-that they will be in no danger, either real or imaginary, from your
-horse's heels, and never at any time put him in such a position that
-he can kick any one, or that you can get kicked yourself by any other
-horse. If you have to turn about on starting, try to do so by making
-your horse step around with his hind-legs (in the technical phrase,
-_pirouette renversée_), so as to avoid turning your back and presenting
-his haunches towards any one with whom you may be talking or from whom
-you are to take leave. To be able to do this easily and gracefully you
-must have him well "collected" and "light in hand."
-
-
-ON WHICH SIDE TO RIDE.
-
-The next question that arises is on which side of her escort a lady
-should ride. This point, so much discussed and disputed in this
-country, is scarcely raised in England, where the universal habit of
-turning to the left makes it, under almost all circumstances, safer
-for her to be on his left, in which position he finds himself always
-interposed between his charge and any passing vehicle, whether it
-come from before or from behind. In this country, however, we have
-adopted--nobody knows why, unless it is because the French do so--the
-rule of keeping to the right, and yet without changing our manner
-of riding and driving, so that the result is often awkward and even
-dangerous. The teamster who used to walk on the left of his horses,
-so as to lead them out of the way when occasion required, still
-walks on the left, which now puts him in the middle of the road; the
-coachman still sits on the right, though the probability of contact has
-changed over to the other side; the lady's seat is still on the left
-side of the horse, which obliges her to choose between the danger of
-being caught by passing wheels or crushed by the horse of her escort.
-As there is no reason in the world, whether in the conformation
-of the female form or of the horse itself, or in the exigencies of
-equestrianism, that makes it inherently more proper to sit on one side
-of the horse rather than on the other, it seems strange that none of
-our independent American ladies should have undertaken to set the
-fashion of sitting on the right side. The Princess of Wales always does
-so, for some special reason. The Empress of Austria, who is well known
-as one of the boldest and most graceful riders as well as one of the
-most beautiful women in Europe, is said to have saddles made in both
-ways, using them alternately, and this plan is adopted by more than one
-of the noble ladies of England who hunt regularly in the season, with
-a view of preventing too constant a strain on the same set of nerves,
-and possibly causing an unequal development of the two sides of the
-person. However, accepting the present feminine seat as a thing not to
-be changed, the advantages in this country of riding on the one hand
-of the escort or on the other are so equally divided that the balance
-may incline to either side, and a lady is always free to do about
-it as she pleases without exciting remark. When riding on the right
-side, the lady is protected from passing vehicles, and the gentleman
-has his right hand free to assist her in any way, even to taking her
-off her horse in case of necessity; but if either horse were to shy
-towards the other, she might get bruised, and she is always liable to
-an occasional contact with her companion's person, which may not be
-pleasant. Children should certainly be kept on the right, and so should
-any inexperienced or very timid person; and at all times a gentleman
-should interpose himself between the lady under his charge and danger
-of any kind--as, for instance, reckless drivers, rude strollers, or a
-drove of cattle. When riding on the left, the lady is undoubtedly in a
-more exposed position, especially if her horse is disposed to dance or
-shy at rattling wagons and the like; but her escort, being able to ride
-closer to her, is enabled more quickly and safely to take the animal by
-the head, if necessary, and under all circumstances he should hold his
-reins and whip in his right hand, and in case of danger keep his horse
-well "collected," so as to be ready to act promptly and without any
-show of excitement.
-
-
-THE SEAT.
-
-_Position._--The lady's position on horseback is so conspicuous that
-the fact ought to stimulate the most indifferent so to place and carry
-herself as to show her figure to the best advantage, and this graceful
-carriage of the person will be found to be the first step towards
-achieving a firm and easy seat. The posture should be erect, the back
-slightly hollowed, the breast thrown forward, the chin drawn in so
-that the neck will be nearly vertical. The lower limbs should rest
-easily but firmly in their respective places, the left leg hanging
-perpendicularly from the knee downward, with heel slightly depressed,
-and foot parallel with the horse's side, the right toe raised a little
-above the horizontal, but not carried far enough forward to poke up
-the riding habit. The seat should be in the middle of the saddle, not
-on the right side of it with the body inclined to the left, which is
-excessively awkward, nor on the left side with an inclination to the
-right, which is equally awkward, and with the additional disadvantage
-of being sure to cause saddle galls. When the body is consciously
-_balanced_ on the horse's back, when the shoulders are equidistant from
-his ears, and when the eyes, looking between said ears (an excellent
-habit), look straight along the road, and not off obliquely to one side
-of it, then the seat, whatever else it may not be, is at least in the
-middle of the saddle.
-
-[Illustration: A SQUARE AND PROPER SEAT.]
-
-_The Hand._--As to the manner of carrying the arms, Colonel Hayes
-remarks that he has seen of late (in England) some ladies sticking out
-their elbows, but that he, for his part, decidedly approves of the
-old rule which forbade that daylight should be seen between a lady's
-arms and body. The sight which annoyed Colonel Hayes is not unknown
-in America, but probably most observers correctly attribute it either
-to ignorance or affectation. Certainly there is no reason for it,
-whether practical or æsthetic, as the raising of the elbows lifts the
-hands into a position in which the reins act less correctly on the
-horse's mouth, while substituting angles for curves in the outline of
-the figure, and quite destroying the air of well-bred repose which
-is one of the great charms of a finished horsewoman. The arms should
-hang naturally by the sides, with the hands, a few inches apart, just
-above the knee, and as low as possible without resting on it, the nails
-turned down, the knuckles at an angle of forty-five degrees with the
-horizon, the wrists bent inward so as to permit of a little play of the
-wrist joint at each tug of the horse on the reins.
-
-_The Poise._--All this is not very difficult so long as the horse keeps
-quiet, or even when he merely walks; but how is this much-admired
-statuesque repose to be preserved at the trot, the canter, the gallop,
-to say nothing of incidental shying and capering? There is only one
-answer to this question, and that is--_practice_. But even practice
-is usually not sufficient without an accompaniment, infrequent and
-not always pleasant, _viz._, frank and unflattering criticism; and
-every one who really wishes to excel, and to merit the praises which
-as woman she is certain to receive, will see to it that this wholesome
-corrective is often at hand. Practice itself, to be profitable, must
-be intelligent, and the cause of any discomfort from the motion of the
-horse should be sought out and removed. It will be found almost always
-to result from involuntary muscular contractions, especially of the
-waist, which should invariably be kept supple, as it is to a slight
-play of loin and thigh that the rider must look to prevent being thrown
-up by each spring of the hind-legs in cantering or galloping.
-
-In rising to the trot, bear outwardly with the left heel, which will
-keep the knee close against the saddle, and prevent the leg from
-swaying about. At the same time be careful not to rise towards the
-left--an awkward but very common habit, which can be detected by the
-plan already suggested of sighting between the horse's ears. Mr. Sidney
-says, "The ideal of a fine horsewoman is to be erect without being
-rigid, square to the front, and until quite at home in the saddle,
-looking religiously between her horse's ears. The shoulders must
-therefore be square, but thrown back a little, so as to expand the
-chest and make a hollow waist, such as is observed in waltzing, but
-always flexible. On the flexibility of the person above the waist,
-and on the firmness below, all the grace of equestrianism, all the
-safety, depend. Nervousness makes both men and women poke their heads
-forward--a stupid trick in a man, unpardonable in a woman. A lady
-should bend like a willow in a storm, always returning to an easy and
-nearly upright position. Nothing but practice--frequent, but not too
-long continued--can establish the all-important balance. Practice,
-and practice only, enables the rider instinctively to bear to the
-proper side, or lean back, as a horse turns, bounds, or leaps." It is
-evidently not simply pounding along the high-road in a straight line
-on a steady nag which is here meant. The following advice, given by a
-lady who is herself an accomplished horsewoman, will furnish a clew to
-the sort of exercise which will be really profitable. She says, "Let
-the pupil practise riding in circles to the right, sitting upright,
-but bending a little to the horse's motion, following his nose with
-her eye; beginning with a walk, proceed to a slow trot, increasing the
-action as she gains firmness in the saddle. When in a smart trot on a
-circle to the right she can, leaning as she should to the right, see
-the feet of the horse on the right side, it may be assumed that she has
-arrived at a firm seat." Another excellent exercise is to lean over,
-now to one side, now to the other, now in front, far enough to observe
-the horse's action, the motion of his feet, and the regularity of his
-step.
-
-
-ON THE ROAD.
-
-If good-nature is the quality most essential to _mounting_ in a
-pleasing manner, that which will cause a lady to shine most _on the
-road_ is kindness. Such a statement will perhaps bring a smile to
-the lips of some dashing girl who thinks that she has other means of
-pleasing, once mounted on a spirited horse, than the practice of any
-of the Christian virtues; but the writer, after many years' experience
-with _amazones_ both young and old, believes it to be literally true.
-A lady who, without weakness, is gentle and thoughtful, will have,
-other things being equal, more sympathetic obedience from her horse,
-a finer hand, a more supple seat, and will bring him back fresher and
-her whole party home in better spirits than one who is not. To begin
-with, there is almost always one of the horses which is not equal to
-the others, but keeps up with difficulty, and as it is precisely that
-horse which should set the pace for the rest, it is well to observe
-the capacity of the different animals, and spare the feelings of any
-one of the party who may be poorly mounted. One might hardly suppose
-it necessary to mention so elementary a rule of politeness as that
-which bids us, when we ride in company, not to keep always in the best
-part of the road; but horses are sometimes selfish as well as human
-beings, and the selfish horse, like the selfish man, unless he is
-prevented, will imperceptibly crowd his patient companion into the
-ruts, when the rider will get the credit or discredit of the action.
-Another too common piece of thoughtlessness is the splashing at full
-speed through mud puddles, the result of which is naturally more
-apparent to one's neighbors than to one's self. If to an equestrian,
-however, being splashed or spattered is annoying, to a pedestrian it
-is nothing less than exasperating, and such a one will look after the
-person guilty of the rudeness with eyes of anything but admiration. One
-cannot be too careful, indeed, when riding near pedestrians, as they
-are decidedly susceptible under such circumstances, and likely to take
-offence; and especially is caution required where women and children
-are concerned, for it is impossible to conjecture what they will do
-if suddenly startled by the rapid approach of horses. The writer saw,
-one afternoon, a nursery-maid crossing Rotten Row with a baby-carriage
-(_Anglice, perambulator_), and two children holding to her skirts.
-When half-way over, a lady and three gentlemen came galloping down,
-followed by two grooms. The children scattered, the riders could not
-pull up, and for an instant it seemed as if the little party were
-doomed to destruction, as the horses appeared to pass right over some
-of them. The English rule, not only for country riding, but for the
-Park or other public places (and an excellent one it is), requires a
-gentleman to pull up and pass a lady, if alone, at a walk, whether she
-be on foot or on horseback, and though more latitude may be allowed a
-lady, yet she should not gallop up suddenly behind another lady who
-is alone, as a nervous horse might be so excited as to cause great
-uneasiness to a timid rider. If you should unfortunately produce such
-a result, by all means pause and express regret, and if your horse is
-quiet, offer to ride for a few minutes beside the sufferer--for so she
-may be called. In passing on the road, the rule is, when meeting, to
-keep to the right, but when overtaking, to pass to the left, and in
-like manner, when overtaken, to keep to the right, so as to leave the
-road free at your left. The only exception to this rule is in the case
-of led-horses, which, as they are often inclined to kick, should be
-avoided by passing next to the one ridden. When approaching a lady in a
-public place a gentleman should always do so on the off or right side.
-
-It is sometimes rather a nice point to decide when assistance ought to
-be offered by a gentleman to a lady with whom he is not acquainted,
-and, if offered, whether it ought to be accepted. The following
-incident, recounted by Sir Joseph Arnould in his "Life of Lord
-Chief-justice Denman," is interesting as showing how such a question
-was discussed in what may certainly be considered as among the very
-best society in England. He says that on occasion of a visit which the
-Lord Chief-justice paid to Walmer Castle, three years before the Duke
-of Wellington's death, in a conversation about riding, the duke said,
-"When I meet a lady on horseback I always stop, and if her horse seems
-troublesome, offer to ride alongside her in the Row till it is quiet.
-The other day I met a lady on a fresh, violent horse, so I took off my
-hat and said, 'Shall I ride with you? My horse is perfectly quiet.'
-She knew me, for she replied, 'No, your Grace; I think I can get on
-very well.' After she was gone, I felt sure it was Jenny Lind." "We all
-agreed," adds Lord Denman, "that the great singer should have accepted
-the services of the great duke, whether she wanted them or not."
-
-It is better not to fight a restive horse unless you have reason to be
-sure of victory, but rather get some one to lead him past the object
-or into the road which he may have taken it into his foolish head to
-object to. If he is in "that state of nervous irritability known as
-_freshness_" do not jerk the bit, but keep a steady, patient bearing
-on it, speaking soothingly to him in a low though steady voice, for
-his acute hearing will enable him to perceive distinctly tones which
-are almost or quite inaudible to your companions. Try not to have an
-anxious expression of countenance, no matter what he may do, but to
-look serene and smiling, as it will not only be more becoming, but will
-undoubtedly react upon your own feelings. If he pulls, it is well to
-take the slack of the right reins in the spare fingers of the left,
-and _vice versa_, as this will give a firmer hold, and enable you to
-shorten the reins without relaxing their tension.
-
-[Illustration: METHOD OF HOLDING THE REINS IN BOTH HANDS.]
-
-Always speak to your horse on approaching and on leaving him, and also
-whenever he has tried especially to please you, as your voice will soon
-come to have a great influence over him. There is a story told of two
-keepers in a zoological garden, one of whom was a favorite with the
-animals, while the other, though a more conscientious man, was disliked
-by them. The authorities, curious to learn the reason, had them
-watched, and it was found that the former always talked to the animals,
-while the latter served them silently. Too much conversation with
-one's horse, however, is apt to get to be a bore to one's companions.
-
-
-THE PACE.
-
-This should vary with the nature of the ground, as it is dangerous to
-the horse, and consequently very bad form, to ride fast on a very rough
-or hard road. If slippery, a smart trot is safer than a slow trot or
-walk; but if walking, by all means let the horse have his head. If a
-steep place is to be descended, attack it at right angles, and not
-obliquely, for, when going down straight, a slip is likely to have no
-worse result than a momentary sitting down on the haunches, whereas,
-if going diagonally, it would probably bring the horse down flat. The
-canter, which is peculiarly the lady's pace, is much harder than the
-trot on the horse's feet and legs, especially on the leading foot and
-leg, and it should be reserved for comparatively soft ground. The lead
-with the right foot is easier for a lady, owing to her one-sided seat,
-than that with the left, and it would be considered awkward or ignorant
-for her not to start off with the right, although during a long ride it
-is well to change, so as to bring the strain upon a new set of muscles.
-
-
-TURNING.
-
-Of course in turning you must always lead towards the turn, that is,
-with the right foot in turning to the right, and with the left in
-turning to the left. For instance, if you have to round a corner to
-the right, and are leading with the right foot, as will probably be
-the case, you have nothing to do but to go on around, being careful to
-choose good footing for your horse, and avoiding particularly loose
-stones. If, however, you are leading with the left, you must change,
-and you can best do so in the following manner. As you approach the
-critical spot, _collect_ your horse with the curb, and bring him to
-a trot; then, just as you reach the corner, make him swerve slightly
-to the left and instantly give the signal to canter, at the same time
-turning him sharply to the right, pressing your heel against his side
-back of the girth, and lifting the right snaffle-rein. It is well to
-draw back the right shoulder also, so as to throw your weight on his
-left side, and leave his right leg free to make the long stride. As
-this is by no means an easy operation for an unskilled rider, except
-on a perfectly trained horse, I will give the directions also in
-detail for the reverse process of wheeling to the left. If your horse
-should be leading with the left foot, you have, of course, no change
-to make. If, however, you are, as usual, leading with the right,
-you must "change the leg" to the left. As you draw near the corner,
-moderate your speed and collect your horse with the curb, bringing him
-to a trot. Then, just at the moment of turning, sway his shoulders a
-very little to the right, give the signal to canter by raising your
-hand, and wheel sharply to the left, at the same time pressing your
-crop against his right side back of the girth, and raising the left
-snaffle-rein. While doing so, draw back your left shoulder so as to
-throw your weight on the right side. If he does not take the hint at
-once, do not be discouraged, but practise him in some quiet place,
-choosing, if possible, a corner where the turn is uphill; and when he
-does well, pat him and make much of him, for you will find that no
-one of your admirers is more sensitive to your praises than he. This
-matter of turning is well worth all the trouble it may cost you, as it
-will give you a lively pleasure to find your horse's powerful limbs
-moving sympathetically to the gentle impulses of a woman's hand, and,
-besides, it lends an air of style and _savoir-faire_ which will be
-fully appreciated by every looker-on who knows anything whatever about
-riding. Be particular to lean over towards the centre of the curve you
-are describing at an angle proportionate to the speed, just as the
-horse does himself, that is, leaning to the right side as he wheels
-to the right, and to the left when he wheels to the left. It is well
-not to let him cut off his corners, but to preserve the same distance
-from the centre of the road, just as if you were riding in company,
-and when this last is the case be careful to keep exactly abreast both
-on the straight road and on the turns, for there is nothing that looks
-more countrified than to see riders straggling along irregularly like a
-party of mechanics out for a stroll on a Sunday afternoon.
-
-It is well never to canter a carriage-horse unless you know him well,
-and are sure he will not thus be rendered unsteady in harness, and in
-like manner you should be considerate of your escort or companions, and
-not urge their horses beyond their proper gait. A good way to do, if
-you are much the best mounted of the party, is now and then, when the
-road is suitable, to gallop on and return again. It looks well to see
-a lady cantering beside a gentleman who is trotting; but the reverse
-never seems quite good form, and especially when it is evident that the
-gentleman's horse is galloping because he has been pushed off his legs.
-
-A borrowed horse is an article which is looked upon with very different
-eyes by the elderly people who generally are the lenders, and the
-youthful riders that are usually the borrowers, and many a man, and
-perhaps many a woman too, remembers with shame and regret how little
-were appreciated or deserved the favors of this sort received in
-youthful days. A borrowed horse should be scrupulously ridden exactly
-as the owner wishes, and moreover the owner's desires ought to be
-respectfully ascertained in advance.
-
-For cross-country riding the stirrups should be taken up at least one
-hole, and the same is advisable in mounting a strange horse. Another
-safe precaution, in the latter case, is a running martingale, which
-will prevent him from throwing up his head, as some horses have the
-habit of doing, to the great annoyance of the rider.
-
-There are two or three more practical suggestions which may not be out
-of place here. The first and most important is that it is exceedingly
-dangerous to let a horse stand in a draught of air, or in a cool place,
-or eat or drink, when heated. In ten minutes he may be so crippled
-that he will never take a free step again. Ferry-boats are notoriously
-bad places, and a horse should never be taken on to them till quite
-cool. It is not well to let your horse crop the leaves or grass, as
-kind-hearted riders permit him to do sometimes, for it soils his lips
-and bits, giving him a slovenly air, and you run the risk besides of
-his wiping them on your habit before you part from him. Avoid letting
-your horse drink unless he really would be better for the refreshment,
-as he can hardly do so without wetting the curb-reins, making them
-stiff and dirty-looking.
-
-
-THE GROOM.
-
-The costume of the groom is too well known to require remark further
-than that it should be scrupulously neat. In the country, top-boots,
-etc., are by no means _de rigueur_, and under many circumstances would
-savor more of pretence than of real gentility. The groom ought to be
-mounted on a strong and able horse, which, if unused to the saddle, he
-should train at least so far that he can with one hand, by the aid of
-his legs, force it to take and keep any position. When accompanying
-inexperienced riders his horse should be able to overtake theirs
-easily. The distance at which he should ride behind his mistress
-varies with circumstances--in a crowded street his place being close
-behind her, while in the Park or in the country he naturally falls
-farther back, though never beyond easy call. If he is mounted on a good
-saddle-horse, he should keep in his place, that is, always at the same
-distance, galloping if necessary; but if riding a carriage-horse, as
-is often convenient, he should not, unless absolutely necessary, force
-the animal beyond the fastest trot at which it looks well in harness.
-He should never canter any horse unless instructed expressly to do
-so, but should trot in a business-like way, rising in his stirrups,
-or, if necessary, should gallop, sitting straight, with hands low and
-feet thrust home in the stirrups. In all cases he should look straight
-forward, without appearing to notice what goes on around him. Nothing
-looks in worse form than a groom sitting lazily back on a cantering
-horse, and casting glances at the admiring nursery-maids along the way.
-When summoned to his mistress, he should touch his hat to acknowledge
-receipt of the command, and should ride quickly up on the off side,
-where he should listen in a respectful attitude with eyes cast down,
-then, touching his hat again, depart to carry out her orders.
-
-
-
-
-PART III.
-
-LEAPING.
-
-
-One pleasant winter afternoon a fashionably dressed young man, crop in
-hand, spur on heel, and mounted on a tall horse, was seen to emerge
-briskly from a little grove in a gentleman's place, and come to a
-sudden halt in the level field across which he had intended to gallop.
-The cause was a new ditch, deep though narrow, stretching across from
-fence to fence before him. He looked at the obstacle a moment, then
-up and down the field, and remarked to a gardener, an old Scotchman,
-who stood looking on, spade in hand, "Well, I suppose I must go back."
-"I suppose so," said the old fellow, dryly, looking up out of the
-corner of his eye with an almost imperceptible smile. The young man
-reddened, hesitated, and then turned away, saying, as if the other's
-thoughts had been spoken out, "To tell the truth, I don't know whether
-my horse would if he could, nor whether he could if he would." "An'
-the same o' yourself," muttered the old man in his grizzled beard.
-The sarcasm was not to be wondered at, as the speaker remembered what
-he had many a time seen, and very likely himself done in his younger
-days in some hunting field of the old country, for the ditch before
-him could have been cleared by an active boy, on his own legs, with
-a good run. Moreover, it is not improbable that the reader is ready
-to agree with the old satirist in thinking the young man a "muff."
-Nevertheless, both horse and rider might easily have come to grief, for
-the steep banks were crumbly, and while the rider's seat was not of
-the firmest, his mount was straight in the shoulder and a little stiff
-in the pastern. However, they were both as well fitted to overcome
-such a difficulty as nine-tenths of American horses and riders, and a
-very little previous practice would have enabled them to spring over
-without bestowing a second thought upon it. The total indifference on
-this subject of leaping among our people is really quite remarkable,
-for one can hardly take a ride anywhere in the country without there
-arising some occasions when even a little knowledge of the art would
-have added to one's pleasure. How often, for instance, an easy fence
-separates the dusty road, too hard as well as too hot for fast riding,
-from some cool wood with its shaded turf, where a gallop would be
-delightful and would do the horse good instead of harm. The reason of
-this indifference is not only the fear of getting shaken off, but a
-doubt as to the horse's ability to leap, and a dread of doing him some
-harm by such an unusual exertion. All these apprehensions are very
-likely well-founded, for if you have never done any leaping your first
-essay will, in all probability, give you a severe shock. Then if your
-horse is green at this sort of work, and the fence is at all difficult,
-he will not improbably refuse altogether, or jump so unwillingly and
-clumsily as to risk your bones as well as his own; and if he does not
-really fall, he may cause such a strain upon unaccustomed muscles as to
-set up a "splint" or "spavin," producing at least temporary lameness.
-Nevertheless, all these excellent reasons for not trying to leap can
-gradually, but rapidly and with perfect safety, be removed by practice,
-and practice of a kind very pleasant and interesting, while at the
-same time improving to your seat, giving it a firmness under all
-circumstances which no amount of riding on the highway could ever do.
-
-[Illustration: APPROACHING A FENCE.]
-
-Some horses are exceedingly fond of leaping, but the majority are
-indifferent, though on the whole rather averse to it, while a few
-positively will not try at all. The first thing to be done is to get
-your horse to take low and easy leaps without repugnance. For this
-purpose lay the bar you intend to use on the ground, and lead him over
-it without looking back at him or giving him any reason to suppose
-that you have any particular object in so doing. Should he object to
-stepping over it, be patient though firm, and when he has finally
-done so, pat and praise him; but if he has been bred in this country,
-and is used to bar places, he will probably give no trouble at this
-stage of his education. Now mount him and repeat the operation; then,
-having the bar raised a few inches, do so again, and continue doing
-so, always at a walk, until it is so high that he can no longer step
-over it. American horses are famous for their excellent tempers;
-nevertheless, at this point, unless you manage with care and with a
-judicious reference to equine peculiarities of mind and temper, you may
-meet with a refusal to proceed. In this event you must not use force
-or severity, or you may disgust the horse, perhaps forever, with the
-very exercise you wish him to learn to enjoy, but must content yourself
-with preventing him from sheering off and keeping him facing his task
-till, sooner or later, he will go over. Now praise him and make much
-of him, and ask no more jumping till the next lesson. It is not a good
-plan to put the bar up in an open place, for the horse will think it
-nonsense, and unless he is unusually docile will resent what will seem
-to him to be an imposition in forcing him to jump over it when he
-could easily go around it. A bar place or gate-way is much better, as
-it cannot be "flanked," and he will not wonder at being asked to go
-through it, but he should never be ridden backward and forward over
-the bar, nor allowed to see it raised, but should be brought around to
-it by a circuit which, if possible, should be large enough to make
-him forget the leaping, or think of it only as an accidental episode
-in the ride. The ground also should be no harder than good firm turf.
-Let him jump towards his stable or towards home by preference, and it
-will be well to let your assistant hold some little article of food
-which he is especially fond of in view just beyond the bar, so that
-his attention may be distracted from the effort, while an agreeable
-association is given him with it, and he is prevented from thinking
-that the obstacle is one of your making. Bear in mind that your object
-at present is threefold: to induce him to take a liking for the new
-exercise; to give him ease and confidence in the performance of it; and
-to train and strengthen by use the muscles brought into play, so that
-none of the unpleasant results mentioned above may follow. Therefore do
-not for a considerable time set the bar more than two feet high, but
-practise him at it several times a day; first, as already said, at a
-walk, then at a slow trot, and then at a canter, making him lead first
-with one foot, then with the other, until he not only springs over
-without touching and without apparently thinking anything about it,
-but shows by his lengthening or shortening his stride on approaching,
-so as to "take off" at the right distance, that his eye is becoming
-educated; and, finally, until a careful daily inspection of his feet
-and legs has proved that no soreness or tenderness anywhere is caused
-by this exercise. If he does not jump clean, but knocks the bar with
-his feet, it may be because he underestimates the height, as not only
-horses but men too are apt to do in the case of open fences made with
-posts and rails; therefore have a broad piece of board, two feet long,
-stood up against the bar like a post, and make him leap over it. If
-he still strikes, it will be well to try the plan which M. Baucher
-so enthusiastically recommends for all horses, and which consists in
-raising the bar a little just as the horse is in the act of springing.
-
-[Illustration: A WATER JUMP.]
-
-It will be interesting to hear exactly what so great an authority has
-to say on this subject. After remarking that the bar should not be
-covered with anything to diminish its hardness, he proceeds: "I let
-two men hold the bare bar at six inches above the ground. The rider
-advances towards it at a walk, and at the moment when the horse, aided
-by the rider, takes the leap, the two men _raise the bar six inches_."
-The horse naturally strikes his feet against it. "I make him begin
-again, until he clears the bar without touching, notwithstanding the
-repeated raising of it at each leap. Then I have the bar held at a
-foot above the ground, and, as before, it will be raised six inches
-at the moment of the leap. When the horse is accustomed to clear
-this new elevation, I have the bar gradually held six inches higher,
-still continuing to raise it six inches at each leap, and I thus
-succeed, after a few lessons given with the regular progression above
-described, in making all horses jump obstacles of a height that they
-would otherwise never have been able to clear. This simple proceeding,
-well applied, will be useful even to exceptional horses, such as
-steeple-chasers, by teaching them to come more carefully to the point
-of 'taking off,' and will render falls less frequent." The idea of M.
-Baucher is to get the horse in the habit of jumping a little higher
-than he thinks necessary, so as to be on the safe side, and a very good
-idea it is. It is a practice among experienced riders to hounds in
-England, instead of leaping a post-and-rail fence midway between the
-posts, to leap as close to a post as possible, or directly over it when
-it is not much higher than the rail.
-
-To return to our equine scholar, having practised him for a month or so
-at an elevation of two feet, his muscles will have adapted themselves
-to the new strain put upon them, and it will be safe to begin to raise
-the bar higher, and gradually to go up nearly to the limit of his
-ability. It is well, however, never to ask too much, as even a willing
-leaper will be sometimes so disgusted at what he thinks tyrannical
-exactions as to refuse obstinately ever to try again. The horse should
-never be allowed to rush at the bar, but should always, if approaching
-at a gallop, be collected, as much as a hundred feet away, so as to
-be under perfect control. The higher the leap, the slower the pace at
-which it should be taken, for the very momentum acquired by a rush,
-which would be useful in a water leap, would carry the animal against
-the bar instead of over it. The reins should be held in both hands,
-and after the horse has been collected with the curb, as may very
-likely be necessary, the curb should be relaxed, so that on approaching
-the leap he may feel only the gentle pressure of the snaffle, which
-will not make him fear to thrust forward his head, a fear which would
-possibly result in bringing him down on all fours at once, or even with
-the hind-feet first. As he rises to his leap, keep a steady but very
-gentle tension on the reins, being ready to support him firmly as his
-fore-feet touch the earth.
-
-It is now time to experiment with low stone walls and with brooks,
-being always on your guard against those concealed man-traps in the
-shape of loose stones, which form one of the chief dangers of leaping
-in this country.
-
-[Illustration: RISING TO THE LEAP.]
-
-All this while we have been assuming the rider to be an accomplished
-horsewoman, and quite _au fait_ at her fences. If, however, the
-business is entirely new to her, let her not be at all disheartened,
-for her own education can be carried on simultaneously with that of
-the horse, and without the least detriment to it. In this case, keep
-to the standing leap--that is, the leap taken from a walk--although
-it is really the most difficult to sit, until you can support the
-unusual motion without being in the least loosened in the saddle, and
-do not try the higher ones till you are perfect in the lower. The hands
-should be held as low as possible above the right knee, and pretty
-close to the body, so that they may have room to yield, and that the
-sudden thrusting out of the horse's head may not jerk you forward in
-the saddle, in which case the powerful impulsion of the hind-legs
-might pitch you out altogether. The advice is often given in books
-to lean forward and then backward in the leap, but the fact is that
-beginners, if they lean forward intentionally, seldom get back in time
-to avoid the shock above alluded to, and teachers, therefore, as well
-as friendly _coaches_, often call out "lean back" as a lady nears the
-bar, which results in giving the learner an awkward though perhaps not
-unsafe manner. The fact is that there is no necessity to try to lean
-forward, as the rising of the horse will bring you involuntarily into
-a position perpendicular to the ground, while the play of thigh and
-waist to prevent being tossed up is of the same kind as that in the
-gallop, only proportionately increased, and it will become instinctive
-if leaping is begun moderately and carried on progressively as already
-recommended. In coming down you can hardly lean too far back. The left
-foot should not be thrust forward, but kept straight, or drawn a very
-little back and held close against the horse's side; the stirrup, into
-which the foot is pushed to the instep, being one or two holes shorter
-than for ordinary riding. On approaching the fence, be particular
-to do nothing to distract the animal's attention, as, for instance,
-by ejaculations or nervous movements of the reins and person; and
-after the leap do not fail to reward him by praises and caresses, for
-it cannot be too deeply impressed on the mind that he is exceedingly
-sensitive to them, and will consider them an ample reward for his
-exertion.
-
-[Illustration: COMING DOWN.]
-
-The object of these instructions being to enable a lady to master the
-art of leaping without a regular instructor, it will not be amiss
-to sum up the advice already given at length, in the words of two
-competent authorities, "Vieille Moustache" and Mr. Sidney. The former
-says:
-
-"She should take a firm hold of the upper crutch of the saddle with
-the right knee, sit well into the saddle--not back of it, because the
-farther back the greater the concussion when the horse alights--put her
-left foot well home in the stirrup, and press her left thigh firmly
-against the third crutch, while keeping the left knee flexible; lean
-slightly forward, avoid stiffening her waist, in order to throw the
-upper part of her figure backward at the right moment to preserve her
-balance. The hands must not move except with the body, and above all
-no attempt to enliven the horse by jagging his mouth as he is about to
-rise--a pernicious habit, practised by riders of both sexes who ought
-to know better. Reins too short, head too forward, and pace too violent
-are the ordinary faults of beginners. Women have on their saddles a
-firmer seat for leaping than men."
-
-Mr. Sidney remarks: "A sheep hurdle is quite high enough and the trunk
-of a tree is quite wide enough for the first steps in leaping. Balance,
-gripe of the pommels, and support of the stirrup must be combined;
-the seat as near the centre of the horse's back as the pommels will
-permit; the figure erect, not rigid, with the shoulders back, ready
-to bend gently backward as the horse rises in the air--not leaning
-forward, twisted over on the near side, like a popular spirited and
-absurd picture ("First at the Fence"), which really shows 'how not to
-do it;' the snaffle-reins held in both hands, at a length that will
-enable the horse fully to extend himself, and the rider to bear on his
-mouth as she bends back over his croup when he is landing. All this
-time her eyes should be looking between the horse's ears, so as to keep
-perfectly square in the saddle."
-
-If the reader carries out the instruction already given with care, and
-exercises good sense and judgment, it is very unlikely that she will
-have a fall. Should this happen, however, there are two things to be
-remembered, first to get instantly away from the horse by scrambling
-or rolling, and secondly to keep hold of the reins. In any event, the
-timid may be reassured by reflecting that a fall is usually without any
-serious result, it being by no means as dangerous to come down with the
-horse as to be thrown from him.
-
-
-
-
-PART IV.
-
-BUYING A SADDLE-HORSE.
-
-
-The opening of the horse-market is not announced to ladies by cards
-of invitation, though such an innovation on the old-fashioned
-methods might prove a great success in the hands of a skilful
-dealer. Nevertheless, as soon as spring opens, all over the United
-States, ladies are "shopping" for horses, but by no means in their
-usual jaunty and self-confident way, for their eyes, which do them
-such good service at the silk or lace counter, take on a timid and
-hesitating expression in the presence of this unwonted problem. The
-acquisition of a saddle-horse by a young girl is usually a long
-and complicated operation, in the course of which her hopes are
-alternately raised and depressed day by day, to be at last very likely
-disappointed altogether. It often begins at breakfast-time, somewhat
-in the following fashion: "Dear papa, don't you think I might have a
-saddle-horse this season? Eleanor B----'s uncle has given her a beauty,
-and we could ride together; and you know that is just the sort of
-exercise the doctor said would be good for me." The father hesitates,
-and few fathers there are who do not in their hearts long to grant the
-request; but he is a very busy man, and does not feel as if he could
-take any more cares upon his shoulders; and very likely he knows little
-about horses, and really has not the slightest idea how to set about
-such a purchase; and his mind misgives him as he remembers what he has
-heard of the tricks of dealers. So he says, "Oh, my dear, I don't see
-how we can manage it. We should be cheated, to begin with, and pay
-twice as much as he is worth, and he would run away and throw you off;
-and then he would be always sick, and finally fall lame, and would have
-to be given away before the season is over." This is the critical point
-of this part of the little family transaction, and if the daughter has
-nothing more convincing to offer in reply than some vague statement
-that she is sure she sees plenty of good horses in the street, and that
-she does not see why her horse should be sick any more than any one
-else's, and that there must be plenty of good men to take care of him
-to be had at low wages, then probably her case is lost. But suppose
-that she replies: "Oh yes, papa, I _know_ a horse that will do _nicely_
-and can't be sickly for he has worked all summer and not lost _a day_
-and he is eight years old and so has eaten all his wild oats by this
-time and he isn't a very pretty color but then we can buy him cheaper
-for that reason and I don't care so much for color as I do for _shape_
-and he is _very_ well formed indeed his legs and feet are excellent and
-he has a broad shoulder and a pretty neck and head and we gave him
-a long drive the other day and he never missed _a step_ and he isn't
-afraid of anything and I drove him fast up a steep hill and jumped out
-at the top to give him a bunch of clover and took the opportunity to
-listen to his breathing and to feel his pulse and there is nothing the
-matter with _his_ heart or wind I assure you and I will promise to go
-to the stable once a day to see him." Then the chances are that, after
-laughing at the long sentence without a stop, and telling her she is a
-runaway filly herself, papa will say, "Well, suppose we take a look at
-this wonderful animal; we are not obliged to buy him, you know, unless
-we please, and I don't say what I may decide finally," and her case is
-won. To be able, however, to make the reply above supposed, simple as
-it sounds, indicates a very unusual amount of observation for a young
-girl.
-
-There are many ladies who can at a glance tell real point lace from
-artificial, be the imitation never so good; but there are comparatively
-few who know the points of a horse, or can detect any but the most
-glaring defects or blemishes. The reason is simply want of practice,
-for the difference between the well-made and the ill-made horse, or
-between the sound animal and the spavined or foundered one, is far
-greater than that between the two pieces of lace above mentioned, which
-to most masculine eyes would appear exactly alike. With her superior
-delicacy of observation and quickness of perception, a woman ought to
-be, other things supposed equal, a better judge of horses than a man,
-and there must surely be a great many who, if they really believed
-this, would think it worth their while to master the small vocabulary
-of technical terms in which the information they require is always
-couched, and such would speedily find their reward in the opening
-of a new and interesting field of research. To begin with, how few
-ladies so much as know the names of the different parts of the animal!
-Head, legs, and body, eyes, ears, and tail, are about all the words
-in the feminine dictionary of horse lore, and whether the pasterns
-are not a disease of colts, the coronet a part of a bridle, and the
-frog a swelling in the throat, my lady knoweth not. A half-hour,
-however, given to the illustration on the following page, will remove
-once for all this preliminary difficulty, and will open the way to a
-consideration of the proper form and motion of the parts of which the
-names are here given:
-
-
-PARTS AND "POINTS" OF THE HORSE, ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED.
-
-_Arm, or True Arm_ (8, 8).--Extends from the point of the shoulder (29)
-to the elbow (10). It should be long.
-
-_Back._--This is one of the four parts which, according to Arab saying,
-should be short.
-
-_Back Sinew._--The powerful muscle back of the cannon-bone. It should
-be free from contact with the bone.
-
-_Barrel, or Chest._--Should be roomy, as not only the lungs, but all
-the organs of digestion, are contained in it.
-
-_Belly._--This is one of the four parts which the Arab proverb says
-must be long.
-
-_Breast, or Bosom._--Should be deep, but not too broad, or speed will
-be diminished.
-
-_Cannon-bone_ (11).--The strong oval bone stretching between the
-knee and fetlock-joint in the fore-leg, and between the hock and
-fetlock-joint in the hind-leg.
-
-_Chin Groove._--The place just above the swell of the lower lip, in
-which the curb-chain should lie.
-
-_Coronet_ (14).--A cartilaginous band encircling the top of the hoof.
-
-_Crest._--The upper part of the back of the neck.
-
-_Croup_ (18).--Strictly speaking, the upper part of hind-quarters
-between hip and tail, but in a general way taken for that part of the
-body back of the saddle.
-
-_Curb-place_ (29).--A part of the hind-leg, six or eight inches below
-the point of the hock, where "curbs," or enlargement of the back sinew
-resulting from strain, are to be looked for.
-
-_Ear._--Neither too long nor very short.
-
-_Elbow_ (10).--Should not be nearly under the point of the shoulder,
-but considerably back of it, and should neither be turned out nor
-pressed against the ribs.
-
-_Eye._--Should be clear and full, and of a gentle expression.
-
-_Fetlock._--The tuft of hair at the back of the pastern-joint. When
-thick and coarse it indicates common blood.
-
-_Fetlock-joint_ (12).--Is between the shank and the pastern, and is the
-same as pastern-joint.
-
-_Flank_ (22).
-
-_Forearm_ (9).--Should be long and muscular.
-
-_Forehead._--The broader, the more sense and courage. The average of
-six thorough-bred English horses was nine and a half inches.
-
-_Frog._--The triangular piece in centre of bottom of hoof.
-
-_Gaskin, or Lower Thigh_ (23).--Should be strong and long, reaching
-well down. Measured from the stifle-joint to the point of hock should
-be twenty-eight inches in a well-bred horse of fifteen hands and
-three-quarters.
-
-_Girth_ (30, 30).--Gives approximately the capacity of the lungs.
-
-_Heel._--Should not to be too high or contracted, that is, drawn
-together.
-
-_Hip._--Should be broad, with powerful muscles.
-
-_Hip-joint_ (20).--Is not always easily discovered by an amateur.
-
-_Hock_ (25).--One of the most important of the points of the horse;
-should be large, clean--that is, without any rough protuberances on the
-bone--flat, and "with a good clean point standing clear of the rest of
-the joint."
-
-_Hoof._--Deep, like a cup; not flat, like a saucer.
-
-_Jaw._--Should be wide up toward the socket, to give room for windpipe,
-and permit of a graceful carriage of head.
-
-_Knee._--Can hardly be too large. Looked at from in front, should
-appear much wider than the leg, and should stretch out backward into a
-sharp edge, called the pisiform-bone.
-
-_Loins_ (17).--Broad, muscular, and arched slightly upward.
-
-_Lower Thigh._--See "Gaskin" (23).
-
-_Mane._--When thick and coarse, indicates inferior blood.
-
-_Muzzle_ (4).--Should be small, but with large nostril. A coarse muzzle
-indicates low breeding.
-
-_Nostril._--Open and prominent.
-
-_Pastern_ (13).--The short oblique bone between the fetlock and hoof.
-Should not be straighter than sixty, nor lower than forty-five degrees
-to the ground.
-
-_Pastern-joint_ (12).--Same as fetlock-joint.
-
-_Pisiform-bone_ (16).--At the back of the knee.
-
-_Point of the Hock_ (26).
-
-_Point of the Shoulder_ (29).--The lower end of the shoulder-blade, to
-which is jointed the true arm.
-
-_Poll._--The top of the head.
-
-_Quarters_ (21).--Should be muscular.
-
-_Ribs._--Should be well arched, and come up close to the hip.
-
-_Shoulder_ (7, 7).--Should be long and oblique.
-
-_Spavin Place_ (27).--Should be free from bony enlargement.
-
-_Stifle-joint_ (24).--Corresponds to the human knee.
-
-_Tail._--Not set on too high, but yet carried gracefully.
-
-_Thigh, or True Thigh._--Reaches from hip-joint to stifle. Should be
-long to give speed.
-
-_Thrapple, or Throttle_ (5).--Upper part of throat.
-
-_True Arm_ (8, 8).--See "Arm." To a careless observer it appears to
-form part of the shoulder.
-
-_Withers_ (6).--It is the height of the withers which gives the height
-of the horse.
-
-[Illustration: PARTS AND "POINTS."]
-
-To be a "good judge of a horse" is indeed an accomplishment as rare as
-it is desirable; but while it cannot be taught by word of mouth or pen,
-yet a few principles may be acquired which will be of great assistance
-in cultivating the eye. Even if the judgment be never so thoroughly
-formed as to be a safe guide unaided in purchasing, yet a great deal
-of pleasure may be derived from noting the comparative excellences
-of the really fine horses constantly to be seen in this country; and
-there is no reason in the world why a lady's opinion on this subject
-should continue to weigh as little as it has generally done hitherto. A
-graceful neck and an air of spirit usually win the feminine suffrages,
-yet often co-exist with a long back, spindle-shanks, and a chest both
-shallow and narrow. Nevertheless, a good neck is an excellent thing,
-and so is a small head, especially if it have a wide forehead; but next
-look to see if there is also (to use a horsey expression), "a short
-back and a long belly," a deep chest, a sloping shoulder, and legs
-broad and long above the knee and hock, but broad and short below.
-
-The Arabs have a proverb that "there should be four points of a
-horse long, four short, and four broad." The long are the neck, the
-forearm, the thigh, and the belly; the short are the back, the pastern,
-the tail, and the ear; the broad are the forehead, the chest, the
-croup, and the limbs. The head should be small and bony; that of an
-English thorough-bred of fifteen and three-quarter hands will measure
-twenty-two to twenty-four inches in length, with the forehead eight to
-ten inches broad, the face dishing below the eyes. The withers should
-be high, the shoulder as broad as possible--not fleshy, but bony--and
-lying at an angle of about forty-five degrees. The chest should be
-broad and deep, to give room for lungs and heart. The knees should be
-broad, the hoofs large, and not flat, but deep.
-
-The reasons for some of the above recommendations may be made clearer
-by a rough comparison between the frame of the horse and that of
-man. For instance, the shoulder of the former, from the withers to
-its forward point at the joint, is equivalent to the shoulder-blade
-and collar-bone of the latter, and a broad shoulder is as sure an
-indication of strength in the one as in the other. If the horse is
-"short above and long below," it gives him a carriage similar to that
-of a man with a full, broad chest, who holds his head high and his
-shoulders back.
-
-The knee of the horse corresponds to the human wrist, and his _hock_,
-or "back knee," as the children call it, to our heel. The shank of the
-fore-leg, then, or the part between the knee and fetlock, corresponds
-to the hand, and the hoof and pastern to the fingers; while the shank
-of the hind-leg, or the part between hock and fetlock, corresponds
-to our foot, the hoof and pastern being the toes. The horse may thus
-be said to walk upon the tips of his fingers and toes, and it will
-readily be seen why the leg weakens in proportion as the pastern and
-shank lengthen. The arm proper of the horse is very short and almost
-concealed from view, reaching from the forward point of the shoulder to
-the elbow, which is close against the side.
-
-The more oblique the shoulder, the greater the power of this arm to
-throw the forearm forward, so as to support the body in the gallop,
-and in coming down from a leap. A straight shoulder is adapted for
-pulling loads, but is not fit for the saddle, except upon level roads,
-becoming positively dangerous in broken ground. The two upper members
-of the hind-leg, reaching from the hip to the hock, are together
-commonly called the thigh, as the thigh proper, which stretches from
-the hip to the stifle-joint, is very short and almost concealed
-from observation. The stifle-joint, which corresponds to our knee,
-lies close against the flank. Read the description, to some extent
-traditional, of the wonderful mare Swallow, in Kingsley's "Hereward
-the Wake." She was evidently not from Arab stock, with her big ugly
-head; but horses--like men and women--of extraordinary strength, and
-beauty too, are sometimes happened upon in the most unlikely places.
-Indeed, in many an ungraceful form there is stored up an amount of
-vital energy which explains the saying that one can find "good horses
-of all shapes." Nevertheless, the presumption is always in favor of the
-well-shaped animal, and the acknowledged type of equine beauty is the
-English thorough-bred. This is of pure Arab blood, but so improved by
-many generations of careful breeding and training that it now excels
-not only all other European and Oriental races but the modern Arab
-himself, that is considered to be, weight for weight, twenty-five per
-cent. stronger than other breeds. One invariable mark of Arab blood,
-by-the-bye, is a high and graceful carriage of the tail. The eye should
-be kind and quiet, that of an Arab very gentle, even sleepy, when at
-rest, but full of fire and animation when in motion.
-
-"The relative proportions of and exact shape desirable in each of the
-points described varies considerably in the several breeds. Thus, when
-speed and activity are essential, an oblique shoulder-blade is a _sine
-quâ non_, while for heavy harness it can hardly be too upright. _There
-are some elements, however, which are wanted in any horse, such as big
-hocks and knees, flat legs with large sinews, open jaws_ (that is, with
-the lower jaw-bones wide apart), _and full nostrils_."
-
-It is well, after taking a general look at a horse and getting an
-impression of him as a whole, to divide him up mentally into sections,
-and examine these in detail one after the other. Taking first the head,
-which should be bony, not fleshy, remember that the more brain the more
-"horse sense." Next look at the neck, which should be neither too thick
-nor too long, but connecting head and shoulders by a graceful sweep.
-Then the forequarters, observing that the shoulder-blade and true arm
-are both long, well supplied though not loaded with muscle, and join
-each other at the point of the shoulder at a rather sharp angle. Then
-the "middle-piece," which should be rounded in the barrel, arched
-slightly in the loin, "short above and long below," and well ribbed
-up towards the hip. Next the hind-quarters, then the legs, knees,
-hocks, and feet, observing that the knees are firm, the cannon-bones
-and pastern are flat and strong, and that the back sinew is strong and
-stands free from the bone.
-
-Now have the horse set in motion, and observe him first from one
-side, then from the other, and then from behind, noting the carriage
-and movements of the different parts in the order above given. This
-examination is practically the more important of the two.
-
-Let no one suppose that mere verbal instruction, however judicious and
-elaborate, will, without practice, make a good judge of horse-flesh any
-more than it will of Brussels point-lace. All it is here intended to do
-is to aid in training the eye, which must be constantly exercised upon
-whatever specimens may come before it, comparing them mentally with
-one another, and noting their defects and qualities whether of form or
-of motion. It will soon be found that such observations, particularly
-when relating to the motions of the horse, have a fascination
-peculiarly their own, and open a new and wide field of amusement.
-
-In examining a horse a lady cannot of course usually make the thorough
-inspection personally which would be necessary to warrant his limbs
-and wind perfectly sound, but she can, by taking a little time to it,
-form an opinion which will be very nearly correct. She should first
-master the vocabulary at the end of this chapter, which will give her
-an idea what defects to be on the lookout for, and just where to seek
-for them; and she should cultivate her eye at every opportunity by
-scanning critically every horse she sees--or, to be more moderate, say
-one or two a day--endeavoring to detect a "spavin" or "curb," or what
-not, which the owner does not suspect or perhaps shuts his eyes to.
-Then, when a horse is brought up for her approval, let her take her own
-time, refuse to be hurried or humbugged, but, as already suggested,
-look him over from all sides, at rest and in motion, and finally _get
-him on trial for a week_. This last precaution is the most valuable
-of all, and worth, as "Stonehenge" says, ten per cent. on the price
-of the animal, and it can very often be obtained by the simple offer
-of paying for his services in case he is not purchased; indeed, some
-of the most successful New York City dealers grant this privilege
-to any responsible customer as a matter of course. To return to our
-inspection: First take a side view from a little distance, observing
-that he stands perpendicularly on all four legs, bearing equal weight
-on each; any "pointing," or putting forward of a fore-foot to relieve
-it of its share of weight, being indicative of tenderness if not
-lameness. Notice the size, shape, and relative proportion of the
-different parts, and scrutinize them carefully for swellings, or for
-weakened or deformed joints. Then do the same from before, then from
-behind. Now have him led past you, first at a walk, then at a slow
-trot, insisting that the groom shall not take him by the headstall, but
-by the end of the halter, so as to leave him free to nod his head if
-he pleases. Now have him saddled and bridled, and all his paces shown,
-finishing with a smart gallop long enough to sweat him well, after
-which listen carefully to his breathing, which should be noiseless;
-observe that the heaving of the flanks is regular and not spasmodic,
-and that the beating of the heart is not violent or irregular. During
-your week of trial take some disinterested person with you to serve
-as witness in case of accident or misconduct, and work the horse hard
-every day, so as to be sure that he does not lose his appetite when
-fatigued, but being careful not to injure his feet by galloping on
-hard roads, or to let him slip or strain himself in any way. Remember
-the oft-quoted words of the English stable-man: "It ain't the speed
-that 'urts the 'orse; it's the 'ammer, 'ammer, 'ammer on the 'ard
-'igh-road." After your first ride, leave the saddle on for twenty
-minutes with the girths slackened, and next morning, before putting it
-on again, examine the back carefully for any soreness or puffy spot,
-and if such exist, abstain from riding until it has quite disappeared,
-for a day of patience now is better than a week after a saddle-gall
-has become fairly established. The saddle, of course, should fit the
-horse well, and there should always be a free space along above the
-backbone and withers.
-
-[Illustration: THE SORT OF HORSE TO BUY.]
-
-The cut on the preceding page shows a saddle-horse of the very best
-form for a lady's use.
-
-The color of a horse is an important factor in the price, except in
-the case of animals of extraordinary qualities; and although different
-persons have their special preferences, yet probably the order of the
-following list will give the average taste of the horse-buying public:
-
- 1. Blood bay with black points; that is, with mane, tail, and legs
- from the knee downward black.
-
- 2. Rich chestnut.
-
- 3. Rich brown.
-
- 4. Common bay with black points.
-
- 5. Common chestnut.
-
- 6. Dark dapple gray.
-
- 7. Full black.
-
- 8. Light bay with brown legs.
-
- 9. White.
-
- 10. Common gray.
-
- 11. Brownish-black.
-
- 12. Sorrel.
-
-When your decision is finally made, obtain (from the person selling) a
-warranty, which had better be written upon the bill itself, giving the
-height, age, and color of the horse, and stating that he is sound,
-kind, goes well under the saddle and in single or double harness, and
-is afraid of nothing.
-
-The vices which in the eye of the law make a horse returnable are
-Biting, Cribbing, Kicking, Rearing when dangerous, and Shying when
-dangerous.
-
-In estimating the height of a horse it is convenient to remember that
-fifteen hands make exactly five feet--a "hand" being four inches, or a
-third of a foot.
-
-To aid the inexperienced we give a cut showing a horse, originally of
-high spirit but faulty organization, broken down by ill usage, and
-also append a list of the various defects and ailments which every
-horse-owner ought to know something about.
-
-
-LIST OF DISEASES AND DEFECTS.
-
-[Those printed in small capitals constitute UNSOUNDNESS in the eye of
-the law.]
-
-_Acclimation._--Horses removed from one part of the country to another
-have usually a period of indisposition, often of severe illness, and
-always for some time require more than ordinary care. It is well,
-therefore, not to buy a Western horse in the Atlantic States until he
-has been at least a month in his new surroundings.
-
-_Apoplexy._--Sometimes called "sleepy staggers." Begins with
-drowsiness, passing into insensibility, with snoring respiration, and
-ending in death.
-
-BLINDNESS.--Often comes on gradually. Eyes of a bluish-black are
-thought suspicious, as is inflammation of ball or lid, or cloudiness of
-pupil.
-
-BLIND STAGGERS.--See "Megrims" and "Staggers."
-
-BOG-SPAVIN.--A soft swelling on the inner side of the hock-joint
-towards the front. It is caused by the formation of a sac containing
-synovial fluid which has oozed out of the joint. The result usually of
-brutality. Incurable.
-
-BLOOD-SPAVIN.--A swelling in nearly the same place caused by an
-aneurism or sac of arterial blood. Incurable. Very rare.
-
-BONE-SPAVIN.--A swelling caused by a bony growth on the inside of the
-hock-joint towards the front. It produces lameness, which sometimes
-passes off temporarily after a few minutes' work. Sometimes curable.
-This is what is usually meant by spavin.
-
-_Bots._--Caused by the larvæ of the bot-fly, which cling to the lining
-of the stomach by their two hooks till after several months they reach
-maturity and pass out with the droppings. They seem to do little harm,
-and should be left alone, as they cannot be destroyed by any medicine
-safe for a horse to take.
-
-BREAKING DOWN.--A rupture of the tendons of the leg causing the
-fetlock-joint to give way downward. Incurable.
-
-_Broken Knee._--Indicated by white or bare spots, showing that the
-horse has been down, and is presumably a stumbler.
-
-BROKEN WIND.--Accompanied by a husky cough, and indicated by heaving
-flanks and forcible double respiration after exercise. Incurable.
-
-_Capped Hock._--A soft movable swelling on point of hock, caused by a
-bruise, usually got in kicking.
-
-CATARACT.--Opacity of the crystalline lens of the eye.
-
-_Chapped Heels._--Always the result of neglect. Often accompanied by
-fever and constitutional disturbance.
-
-_Cold._--Shown by dulness, rough coat, loss of appetite, tears and
-running at the nose. Give soft food and nurse well without exercise.
-
-_Colic._--Distinguished from inflammation of the bowels by intervals of
-quiet between the spasms, and by the fact that the horse will strike
-his belly violently in the hope of relief. Give first a warm injection,
-to remove any obstruction in lower bowel, and then administer
-stimulants.
-
-_Contracted Heels._--Often caused by improper shoeing, but often
-natural, and in this case producing no ill result.
-
-CORNS.--Do not at all resemble human corns. A corn is a reddish and
-very sensitive spot in the sole of the foot under the shoe, caused by a
-rupture of the delicate blood-vessels, resulting in an abnormal fungoid
-growth.
-
-_Costiveness._--May bring on "blind staggers" in a horse inclined to
-this disease. No horse should be hurried when first taken out till his
-bowels have been moved.
-
-COUGH.--Constitutes unsoundness while it lasts. Caused by foul air,
-dusty food, irregular work. Crush the oats, damp the hay, and give
-linseed tea for drink.
-
-CRIBBING, _or_ CRIB-BITING.--Is sometimes considered a vice, but is
-doubtless a result of indigestion. The horse lays hold of the manger
-with his teeth, straightens his neck, sucks wind into his stomach, and
-ejects gas. Probably some alkali, say lime-water or baking soda, would
-be beneficial.
-
-CURB.--A soft, painful swelling on the back of the hind-leg six or
-eight inches below the hock. See illustration.
-
-_Cutting._--See "Interfering" and "Speedy Cut."
-
-_Discharge from Nostril._--Is usually caused by a simple cold, but may
-be a symptom of the contagious and incurable disease GLANDERS, and
-proximity to it should therefore be carefully avoided.
-
-_Distemper._--A disease of young horses, occurring once only. See
-"Strangles."
-
-_Ewe Neck._--Carries the head high and nearly in a horizontal position,
-so that the bit has not a proper bearing on the "bars," but is inclined
-to slip back towards the grinders.
-
-FARCY.--An incurable and contagious disease, caused by blood-poisoning,
-and indicated by sores usually on inside of thigh, or on neck and hips.
-As it is communicable to human beings, every farcied horse should be
-immediately killed. It is well to avoid all approach to horses having
-sores of any kind. See "Glanders."
-
-_Filled Legs._--A swelled condition of the lower parts, usually caused
-by want of exercise, and relieved by bandaging and rubbing.
-
-_Fistula of the Withers._--An abscess among the muscles over the
-shoulder-blades, usually caused by pressure of saddle upon the bony
-ridge of back. Requires surgical operation.
-
-_Forging._--See "Overreaching."
-
-FOUNDER, OR FEVER IN THE FEET.--An inflammation of the parts between
-the crust of the foot and the pedal-bone, including the _laminæ_,
-which cease to secrete horn. It is caused sometimes by hard roads,
-and sometimes by eating or drinking or standing in a draught of air
-when heated. This name is commonly applied to any rheumatic lameness
-of the fore-feet or legs brought on as above, whether its seat be the
-feet, the tendons of the legs, or the muscles of the breast, in which
-last case it is called "chest-founder." The treatment, which is only
-palliative, is hot bathing and friction with liniments.
-
-_Gadfly Bites._--Often very annoying. May be prevented by washing legs
-and flanks with a strong tea of green elder bark.
-
-_Galls_--from saddle.--Best prevented by leaving the saddle in place
-for twenty minutes after loosening the girths. When occurring, however,
-should receive prompt attention, as they are very tedious if neglected.
-Examine the back carefully after the first ride on a new horse, and
-also before putting on the saddle the next day.
-
-GLANDERS.--A disgusting, contagious, and incurable disease, the chief
-symptom of which is a discharge from one nostril, at first transparent,
-then slightly sticky, then thick and yellow. As it is highly contagious
-to human beings, in whom it is equally dreadful and always fatal, _a
-glandered horse should be instantly killed, as the law requires_. It is
-well to avoid all horses having any discharge, however slight, from the
-nose. Glanders may be caught from "farcy," and _vice versa_.
-
-GRAPES.--A filthy and incurable disease of heels and pastern, caused by
-gross neglect. It is the last stage of "grease."
-
-GREASE.--An aggravated form of "chapped heels," accompanied by
-swelling, fever and a serous discharge. Wash clean frequently, and
-anoint with Dalley's salve.
-
-_Gripes._--See "Colic."
-
-HEART DISEASE.--May be detected by auscultation. Incurable. Ends in
-sudden death.
-
-HEAVES.--See "Broken Wind."
-
-_Hide-bound._--The skin appears too tight, and as if fast to the ribs.
-It is caused by a disordered stomach, and requires nourishing food.
-
-_Inflammation of Bowels._--The pain is continuous, and the horse is
-careful not actually to strike his belly with his feet. Requires, of
-course, very different treatment from colic, but an injection should be
-the first thing done.
-
-_Interfering._--Striking the fetlock-joint with the foot. Caused
-sometimes by weakness and fatigue, but usually by bad shoeing, and a
-good blacksmith is the best adviser.
-
-_Lampas._--A swelling of the gums, relieved by lancing.
-
-KNEE-SPRUNG.--Incurable. Result of overwork.
-
-KNUCKLED.--Same as "set over." A condition of the fetlock-joint
-corresponding to that of the "sprung" knee.
-
-LAMINITIS.--The scientific name of "founder."
-
-MAD STAGGERS.--Violent insanity, caused by inflammation of the brain.
-The last stage sometimes of sleepy staggers. Incurable.
-
-_Mallenders._--A scurvy patch at the back of the knee, caused by
-neglect, and not obstinate.
-
-_Mange._--An itch produced by a parasitic insect.
-
-MEGRIMS.--A falling-sickness like epilepsy. It begins with a
-laying back of the ears and shaking of the head; is accompanied by
-convulsions; and passes off of itself in two or three minutes, the
-horse appearing to be none the worse. Often called "Blind Staggers."
-
-NAVICULAR DISEASE.--An ulceration of the navicular-joint in the foot,
-causing lameness; incurable, except by extirpation of the nerve.
-
-NERVED.--A nerved horse has had one of the nerves of the foot cut to
-remove the pain and lameness caused by the "navicular disease."
-
-OPHTHALMIA.--A purulent inflammation of the eye. Epidemic.
-
-ORGANIC DISEASE of the bony system anywhere constitutes unsoundness.
-
-_Overreaching._--Striking the toe of the front-foot with the toe of the
-hind-foot; sometimes called "clicking." Often remedied by shoeing.
-
-_Poll-evil._--An abscess in the top of the neck, near the head, caused
-by a blow.
-
-PUMICE FOOT.--Bulging sole, weak crust, the result of "laminitis."
-Incurable.
-
-_Quarter Crack._--Occurs usually on the inside of fore-foot. A bad
-sign, as well as very slow and troublesome to cure.
-
-QUIDDING.--Dropping the food half chewed from the mouth. Indicative of
-sore throat.
-
-QUITTOR.--Burrowing abscess in the foot.
-
-_Rheumatism._--Cause, effect, and treatment the same as for human
-beings.
-
-RING-BONE.--An enlargement of the bone by growth, a little above the
-coronet.
-
-ROARING.--Caused by a contraction of windpipe. Incurable.
-
-RUPTURES of all kinds constitute unsoundness.
-
-_Saddle-gall._--Swelling caused by chafing of saddle. If the skin is
-broken it is called a "sitfast;" if not, a "warble."
-
-_Sallenders._--Scurvy patch in front of hock-joint.
-
-_Sand Crack._--Occurs on the inside of fore-foot and on the toe of the
-hind-foot.
-
-_Scratches._--See "Chapped Heels."
-
-_Scouring._--Looseness of the bowels.
-
-SEEDY TOE.--A separation of the crust of the hoof from the laminæ, the
-result of laminitis. Scarcely curable.
-
-SIDE-BONE.--A bony growth just above the coronet, causing lameness.
-Incurable.
-
-SPAVIN.--See "Bone, Blood, and Bog Spavin."
-
-_Speedy Cut._--A cut of the knee from the foot of opposite leg.
-Dangerous, because the pain often causes the horse to fall.
-
-STAGGERS.--See "Apoplexy." "Sleepy," "Trotting," and "Mad" Staggers
-are different forms and stages of the same disease, caused usually by
-overfeeding.
-
-_Strangles, or Colt Distemper._--A severe swelling of the glands of the
-throat, which gathers and breaks.
-
-STRING-HALT _or_ SPRING-HALT.--A peculiar snatching up of the hind-leg,
-caused by some nervous disorder. Incurable.
-
-_Surfeit._--An eruption of round, blunt spots, caused by heating food.
-
-THICK WIND.--Defective respiration without noise. Incurable.
-
-THICKENING OF BACK SINEWS.--Result of strain.
-
-THRUSH.--An offensive discharge from the frog, the result of
-inflammation, caused by want of cleanliness or overwork, etc.
-
-THOROUGH-PIN.--A sac of synovial fluid formed between the bones of the
-hock from side to side.
-
-_Warble._--A saddle-gall when simply swollen but not broken.
-
-_Warts._--Should be removed, as they tend to spread.
-
-WHIRLBONE LAMENESS.--Lameness of hip-joint.
-
-_Windgalls, or Puffs._--Little oval swellings just above the
-fetlock-joint between the back sinew and the bone.
-
-_Worms._--Sometimes troublesome, but less so than often supposed.
-
-WHISTLING.--Caused by a contraction of windpipe. Incurable.
-
-[Illustration: THE SORT OF HORSE NOT TO BUY.]
-
-
-
-
-INDEX.
-
-
-Acclimation, 148.
-
-Advancing at Touch of Heel, 41, 44.
-
-Amateur Horse-training, 1.
-
-Amble, 28.
-
-Apoplexy, 148.
-
-Appel, 28.
-
-Approaching a Fence, 119.
-
-Arm, 135.
-
-Arrière-main, 28.
-
-Avant-main, 28.
-
-
-Back, 135.
-
-Back Sinew, 135.
-
-Backing, 75, 76.
-
-Barrel, or Chest, 135.
-
-Bars, 15.
-
-Belly, 137.
-
-Bending the Neck to Right and Left, 32, 35, 48, 49.
-
-Biting, 148.
-
-Blind Staggers, 148.
-
-Blindness, 148.
-
-Blood-spavin, 150.
-
-Bone-spavin, 150.
-
-Boring, 150.
-
-Bots, 150.
-
-Breaking Down, 150.
-
-Breast, or Bosom, 137.
-
-Bridles, 12.
-
-Bridle-tooth, 15, 18.
-
-Broken Knee, 150.
-
-Buying a Saddle-horse, 132.
-
-
-Cannon-bone, 137.
-
-Cantering, 64.
-
-Capped Hock, 150.
-
-Cataract, 150.
-
-Cavesson, 46.
-
-Changing the Leading Foot, 66, 79.
-
-Chapped Heels, 150.
-
-Chin Groove, 15, 29, 137.
-
-Cold, 150.
-
-Colic, 150.
-
-Color, 147.
-
-Contracted Heels, 150.
-
-Corns, 150.
-
-Coronet, 137.
-
-Costiveness, 151.
-
-Cough, 151.
-
-Crest, 137.
-
-Cribbing, 148, 151.
-
-Croup, 38, 137.
-
-Curb-place, 137.
-
-Curbs, 151.
-
-Cutting, 151.
-
-
-Deux Pistes, 29, 71.
-
-Discharge from Nostrils, 12, 15.
-
-Diseases and Defects, 148.
-
-Distemper, 151.
-
-Dress, 88.
-
-Duke of Wellington, 110.
-
-Dumb-jockey, 46.
-
-
-Ear, 137.
-
-Elbow, 29, 137.
-
-Etiquette in the Saddle, 87.
-
-Ewe Neck, 151.
-
-Eye, 137.
-
-
-"Falling Through," 16.
-
-Farcy, 151.
-
-Fetlock, 29, 137.
-
-Filled Legs, 151.
-
-Fistula of the Withers, 151.
-
-Flank, 137.
-
-Flexion of the Jaw, 32.
-
-_Flexions de la Mâchoire_, 21.
-
-_Flexions de l'Encolure_, 32.
-
-Flying Trot, 58.
-
-Forearm, 29, 137.
-
-Forehand, 38.
-
-Forehead, 137.
-
-Forge, 29.
-
-Forging, 152.
-
-Founder, or Fever in the Feet, 152.
-
-Frog, 29, 137.
-
-
-Gadfly Bites, 152.
-
-Galloping, 64.
-
-Galls, 152.
-
-Gaskin, or Lower Thigh, 137.
-
-"Getting a Horse accustomed to Skirts," 42.
-
-Girths, 138.
-
-Glanders, 152.
-
-Going on _Deux Pistes_, 72.
-
-Grapes, 152.
-
-Grease, 152.
-
-Grinders, 29.
-
-Gripes, 152.
-
-Groom, 116.
-
-Guiding Bridlewise, 55.
-
-
-Hand, 29, 104.
-
-Hand-gallop, 29, 64.
-
-Heart Disease, 152.
-
-Heaves, 153.
-
-Heel, 138.
-
-Hide-bound, 153.
-
-Hip, 138.
-
-Hock, 29, 138.
-
-Holding the Bit lightly, 21, 24.
-
-Hoof, 138.
-
-Horse-training is not Horse-breaking, 9.
-
-
-Interfering, 28, 153.
-
-
-Jaw, 138.
-
-Jog-trot, 58.
-
-
-Kicking, 69.
-
-Knee, 138.
-
-Knee-sprung, 153.
-
-Knuckled, 153.
-
-
-Laminitis, 153.
-
-Lampas, 153.
-
-Leading with Left Fore-foot, 88.
-
-Leading with Right Fore-foot, 80.
-
-Leaping, 118.
-
-Loins, 138.
-
-Lower Thigh, 138.
-
-Lowering the Head, 25, 28.
-
-Lunging-cord, 46.
-
-
-Mad Staggers, 153.
-
-Mallenders, 153.
-
-Mane, 138.
-
-Manége, 29.
-
-Mange, 153.
-
-Megrims, 153.
-
-Method of holding Reins in both Hands, 111.
-
-_Méthode d'Équitation_, Baucher, 4.
-
-Mount, 91.
-
-Mounting, 92.
-
-Moving the Croup to Right and Left, 38, 52.
-
-Muzzle, 138.
-
-
-Navicular Disease, 153.
-
-Nerved, 153.
-
-Nippers, 30.
-
-Nostrils, 138.
-
-
-On the Road, 107.
-
-On which Side to Ride, 100.
-
-"One, Two, Three," 95.
-
-Ophthalmia, 153.
-
-Ordinary Pirouette, 71.
-
-Organic Disease, 153.
-
-Overreaching, 153.
-
-
-Pace, 30.
-
-Pacing, 192.
-
-Parts and Points of a Horse, 138.
-
-Passage, 30, 71, 73, 138.
-
-Pastern, 30.
-
-Pastern-joint, 138.
-
-Piaffer, 30.
-
-Pirouettes, 30, 71.
-
-Pisiform-bone, 138.
-
-Piste, 30, 74.
-
-Placing the Foot in the Stirrup, 96.
-
-Poll, 30, 138.
-
-Poll-evil, 154.
-
-Position in Saddle, 97.
-
-"Pulling the Hands steadily Apart," 33.
-
-Pulling the Right Rein, 36.
-
-Pumice Foot, 154.
-
-Punishment in Case of Resistance, 27.
-
-
-Quarter Crack, 154.
-
-Quarters, 138.
-
-Quidding, 154.
-
-Quittor, 154.
-
-
-Rack, 30.
-
-Ramener, 30.
-
-Rassembler, 30.
-
-Ready to Mount, 94.
-
-Rearing, 66, 148.
-
-Reins, Act of Changing, 77.
-
-Reins in Hand, 43, 77.
-
-Rheumatism, 154.
-
-Riding in Circles, 79.
-
-Ring-bone, 154.
-
-Rising to the Leap, 127.
-
-Roaring, 154.
-
-Running Away, 69.
-
-Ruptures, 154.
-
-
-Saddle-gall, 154.
-
-Saddles, 12, 13.
-
-Sand Crack, 154.
-
-Scouring, 154.
-
-Scratches, 154.
-
-Seat, 102, 103.
-
-Seedy Toe, 154.
-
-Shank, 30.
-
-Shoulder, 138.
-
-Shying, 68.
-
-Side-bone, 154.
-
-Sidney, Mr., 130.
-
-Single-foot, 30.
-
-Snaffle, 30.
-
-Spavins and Splints, 30, 138, 154.
-
-Speedy Cut, 154.
-
-Staggers, 154.
-
-Starting, 99.
-
-Stifle-joint, 31, 138.
-
-Stopping at Touch of Whip on Back, 45.
-
-Strangles, 154.
-
-String-halt, 154.
-
-Style, 50.
-
-Surcingle, 31.
-
-Surfeit, 155.
-
-
-Tail, 134.
-
-Thick Wind, 155.
-
-Thickening of Back Sinews, 155.
-
-Thigh, 31, 139.
-
-Thorough-pin, 155.
-
-Thrapple, or Throttle, 139.
-
-Throat-latches, 15, 31.
-
-Thrush, 155.
-
-Trotting, 58.
-
-True Arm, 139.
-
-Turning, 112.
-
-
-Vices, 148.
-
-"Vieille Moustache," 130.
-
-
-Walking, 46, 51.
-
-Warble, 155.
-
-Warts, 155.
-
-Water Jump, 121.
-
-Whips, 13.
-
-Whirlbone Lameness, 155.
-
-Whistling, 155.
-
-Windgalls, 155.
-
-Withers, 31, 139.
-
-Worms, 155.
-
-
-
-
- * * * * * *
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
-Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as
-possible.
-
-Illustrations have been moved.
-
-
-
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<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42938 ***</div>
<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Horsemanship for Women, by Theodore Hoe Mead,
Illustrated by Gray Parker</h1>
-<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at <a
-href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p>
-<p>Title: Horsemanship for Women</p>
-<p>Author: Theodore Hoe Mead</p>
-<p>Release Date: June 13, 2013 [eBook #42938]</p>
-<p>Language: English</p>
-<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p>
-<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN***</p>
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</body>
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@@ -1,4320 +0,0 @@
-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Horsemanship for Women, by Theodore Hoe Mead,
-Illustrated by Gray Parker
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-
-
-
-Title: Horsemanship for Women
-
-
-Author: Theodore Hoe Mead
-
-
-
-Release Date: June 13, 2013 [eBook #42938]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN***
-
-
-E-text prepared by Julia Miller, Paul Clark, and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made
-available by Internet Archive/American Libraries
-(http://archive.org/details/americana)
-
-
-
-Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
- file which includes the original illustrations.
- See 42938-h.htm or 42938-h.zip:
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42938/42938-h/42938-h.htm)
- or
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42938/42938-h.zip)
-
-
- Images of the original pages are available through
- Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
- http://archive.org/details/horsemanshipforw00mead
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
- Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
-
-
-
-
-
-HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN
-
-by
-
-THEODORE H. MEAD
-
-With Illustrations by Gray Parker
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-New York
-Harper & Brothers, Franklin Square
-1887
-
-Copyright, 1887, by Harper & Brothers.
-All rights reserved.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS.
-
-
- PART I. PAGE
-
- AMATEUR HORSE-TRAINING 1
-
- LESSON
-
- I. COMING TO THE WHIP 15
-
- II. TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY (_Flexion de la machoire_),
- USING THE CURB 21
-
- III. TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY, USING THE SNAFFLE 24
-
- IV. TO LOWER THE HEAD 25
-
- V. TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE
- REINS HELD BELOW THE BIT (_Flexions de l'encolure_) 32
-
- VI. TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE
- REINS THROWN OVER THE NECK 35
-
- VII. TO MOVE THE CROUP TO RIGHT AND LEFT WITH THE WHIP 38
-
- VIII. MOUNTED 41
-
- IX. MOUNTED (_continued_) 48
-
- X. THE WALK 51
-
- XI. TO MOVE THE CROUP WITH HEEL AND WHIP (_Pirouette
- renversee_) 52
-
- XII. TO GUIDE "BRIDLEWISE" 55
-
- XIII. THE TROT 58
-
- XIV. THE GALLOP, HAND-GALLOP, AND CANTER 64
-
- XV. THE PIROUETTE, DEUX PISTES, PASSAGE 71
-
- XVI. BACKING 75
-
- XVII. RIDING IN CIRCLES.--CHANGE OF LEADING FOOT 79
-
-
- PART II.
-
- ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE 87
-
- Dress 88
-
- The Mount 91
-
- Mounting 92
-
- The Start 99
-
- On which Side to Ride 100
-
- The Seat 102
-
- On the Road 107
-
- The Pace 112
-
- Turning 112
-
- The Groom 116
-
-
- PART III.
-
- LEAPING 118
-
-
- PART IV.
-
- BUYING A SADDLE-HORSE 132
-
- Parts and "Points" of the Horse, Alphabetically Arranged 135
-
- List of Diseases and Defects 148
-
- INDEX 157
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS.
-
-
- PAGE
-
- Coming to the Whip 6
- A good Saddle 13
- A properly fitted Curb-chain 16
- Flexion of the Jaw--using the Curb 22
- Lowering the Head 26
- Punishment in case of Resistance 27
- "Pulling the Hands steadily Apart" 33
- To Bend the Neck to Right or Left, with the Reins below the Bits 34
- Getting the Horse "Light in Hand" 35
- Pulling on the Right Rein 36
- Moving the Croup one step to the Right 39
- Getting a Horse accustomed to Skirts 42
- Showing Reins in Left Hand 43
- Advancing at touch of Heel 44
- Stopping at touch of Whip on Back 45
- The Walk (Colt in Training) 46
- Bending the Neck to Right and Left 49
- Moving the Croup with the Heel and Whip 53
- Guiding Bridlewise (Turning to the Right) 56
- The Canter 65
- Ordinary Pirouette 71
- Going on "Deux Pistes" 72
- The Passage 73
- Backing 76
- Reins in Hand 77
- Act of changing Reins 77
- Leading with the Right Fore-foot 80
- Leading with the Left Fore-foot 82
- Ready to Mount 94
- "One, Two, Three" 95
- Placing the Foot in the Stirrup 96
- Position in Saddle 97
- A Square and Proper Seat 103
- Method of holding the Reins in both Hands 111
- Approaching a Fence 119
- A Water Jump 121
- Rising to the Leap 127
- Coming Down 129
- Parts and "Points" 136
- The sort of Horse to Buy 146
- The sort of Horse not to Buy 149
-
-
-
-
-HORSEMANSHIP FOR WOMEN.
-
-
-
-
-PART I.
-
-AMATEUR HORSE-TRAINING.
-
-
-"My _dear_," said my wife, "you don't mean to say you have _bought
-that_ horse?"
-
-"Why, yes, indeed," replied I; "and very cheap, too. And why not?"
-
-"You will never get your money back," said she, "no matter how cheap
-you have bought him. Don't keep him. Send him back before it is too
-late."
-
-It was a sultry July morning, and my wife stood on the farm-house
-porch, in provokingly fresh attire, while I held my new acquisition
-by the bridle in the scorching sun; and just recovering as I was from
-illness, this conversation struck me as really anything but _tonic_ in
-its character. However, bracing myself up, I replied, "But I don't want
-to get my money back; I intend to train him for my own use under the
-saddle."
-
-"Oh, you can never do anything with that great horse. Why, he is the
-awkwardest brute I ever saw. Just look at him now!"
-
-In fact, his appearance was anything but beautiful at that moment. His
-Roman nose, carried a long way forward and a little on one side, gave
-him somewhat the air of a camel; his coat showed no recent acquaintance
-with the brush; and as he stood there sleepily in the sun, with one
-hind-leg hitched up, he did not present at all a picture to charm a
-lady's eye. Nevertheless, he was, in fact, a reasonably well-made
-horse, a full black, fifteen and three-quarter hands high, sound, kind,
-and seven years old.
-
-"He's just horrid," said my wife.
-
-"Oh, that's nothing," said I; "that's only a bad habit he has. We will
-soon cure him of such slovenly tricks. Just see what good points he
-has. His legs are a little long, to be sure, but they are broad, and
-have excellent hoofs; his breast is narrow, but then it is deep; and
-that large nostril was not given him for nothing. You will see he will
-run like a race-horse."
-
-"If you once get him started you can never stop him," said my wife.
-"You know how he pulls, and how nervous he is. He will go till he
-drops. You are not strong enough to ride such a horse."
-
-"Oh, nonsense," said I; "you can see that there is no mischief in
-him. Look what a kind eye he has! The fact is, horses are often very
-sensitive; and while this one may never have been cruelly treated, yet
-he has been misunderstood, and his feelings hurt a great many times a
-day. Human beings are the only things he seems afraid of. As for his
-awkward carriage, it is no worse than that of the farm hand who has
-made such a failure of trying to use him, and who is, nevertheless,
-when he stands up straight, a well-made, good-looking fellow. A little
-careful handling will make that animal as different from his present
-self as a dandified English sergeant is from the raw recruit he once
-was. What do you think of his name? It is Sambo."
-
-But my wife was not to be led off on any side question, and after
-intimating that such a plebeian appellation struck her as quite
-suitable, she continued; "Now you know that Mr. ----" (the farmer
-of whom I purchased) "knows a great deal more about horses than you
-do; you must admit that, for he has been buying and selling and
-driving them all his life, and _he_ doesn't like him, or he wouldn't
-sell so cheap; and as for training him, for my part I don't believe
-horse-training can be learned out of books, as a woman would learn a
-receipt for making cake. Do get him to take the horse back!"
-
-Now I have a great respect for my wife's opinion in general, and in
-this particular case all her points seemed well taken.
-
-The horse was tall, and I was short; he was excitable, and I hadn't the
-strength of a boy; he was very awkward, and I had never trained a horse
-in my life. However, I had been reading up a little on the subject,
-and feeling the confidence in myself which a very little knowledge is
-apt to impart, I was determined to try my hand.
-
-I had remarked that there was a certain French system which was, in
-the several works I had consulted, always spoken of with respect as
-a complete and original method, so I obtained a copy of the book, in
-which is set forth the _Methode d'Equitation basee sur de nouveaux
-Principes, par F. Baucher_, and having disentangled (no easy task)
-what was really practical from the enveloping mass of conceited sham
-scientific nonsense, I had numbered the margin so as to make a series
-of simple progressive lessons of half an hour each. The volume in
-question, which was not, by-the-bye, the present improved edition, I
-now produced in a somewhat dog-eared condition from under my arm. My
-wife, seeing that remonstrance was of no avail, took a seat on the
-veranda, so as to be ready to advise and assist, while my excellent
-friends, the farmer and his wife, came out "to see the circus," as they
-said, and established themselves in suitable midsummer attitudes, with
-countenances of amused expectation.
-
-"The first few lessons must be given on foot," said I, and spreading my
-Baucher open upon the "horse-block," I proceeded to carry out its first
-injunction by placing myself, with riding-whip under my arm, in front
-of the horse, which was already saddled and bridled, and "looking him
-kindly in the face." He bore my gaze with equanimity, but when the
-riding-whip was produced he started violently; and when I raised my
-hand to pat his neck reassuringly he threw up his head and ran back.
-This evidently was not temper, but alarm. Clearly, moral suasion was
-not the kind that had been used with him hitherto. In plain English, he
-had been beaten on the head; and it was some time before he got over
-the impression made by such ill-treatment and ceased dodging at every
-sudden motion on my part.
-
-However, a lump of sugar gave the poor fellow more confidence, and,
-avoiding all brusque movements, I went on to give him the first lesson
-of the Baucher series, viz., _To Come to the Whip_.
-
-It is encouraging for beginners that this lesson, while producing
-conspicuous results, is in most cases very easy. In less than half an
-hour my audience was not a little surprised to see Sambo come to me
-at the slightest motion of the whip, and follow me about with neck
-arched, ears pricked up, and eyes lustrous with the unwonted pleasure
-of comprehending and voluntarily carrying out his master's wishes.
-
-[Illustration: COMING TO THE WHIP.]
-
-"Well, that's very pretty," said the farmer; "but what's the good of
-it?"
-
-This criticism, it may be remarked, he continued to repeat at every
-step in the horse's education. He did not "see the good" of a double
-bridle with two bits. He did not see the good of teaching the horse to
-relax the muscles of his jaw and to hold the bit lightly in the mouth.
-He did not see the good of suppling the various muscles of the neck, on
-which, nevertheless, depend to a surprising degree the balance of the
-whole body and the easy motion of the limbs. In fact, he maintained his
-attitude of amused and good-natured incredulity until one day, after
-about three weeks, I rode Sambo into the lawn, his neck arched and tail
-displayed, and, with the reins hanging on my little finger, made him
-cut circles and figure eights of all sizes at a spanking trot.
-
-Then my good farmer gave up, and said he really would hardly have
-believed it could be the same horse. What is more, he took off his own
-driving horses "the overdrawn check-reins" by which he had been hauling
-their noses up into as near a horizontal line as possible, and allowed
-them to carry their heads in a more natural manner.
-
-The afternoon of his first lesson Sambo was put in double harness for a
-drive of ten or twelve miles, during which he annoyed me excessively by
-his restless dancing and fretting, so that next morning I expected to
-have to begin all over again; but, to my satisfaction, he had forgotten
-nothing, and came towards me at the first motion of the whip, so that
-I passed on to the _Flexions de la Machoire_, which we translate as
-the _suppling of the muscles of the jaw_. Here I came upon my first
-difficulty, and it lasted me several days. It was, however, the only
-serious one in my whole course, and from subsequent experience I am
-satisfied that my own awkwardness and disposition to compel obedience
-by main force were the principal causes of it.
-
-However, success soon rewarded my perseverance, and I had the
-satisfaction of feeling the iron grip of the bit relax, and seeing the
-nose brought in and the face assume a perpendicular position.
-
-Without at present going further into detail, I will simply say that at
-the expiration of a month, during which Sambo had been driven double
-almost daily, his education for the saddle had so far advanced that
-his head was admirably carried, his trot was greatly improved--his
-walk always had been light and swift--he could trot sideways to the
-right or left, could pirouette to the right or to the left on the
-hind-feet or on the fore-feet, responding to the pressure of the rein
-upon his neck or of the leg against his side, while he had become so
-steady that I could fire at a mark with a pistol from his back.
-
-All this was very satisfactory progress, especially in view of my
-total inexperience, poor health, and the heat of the weather; but
-there is no doubt that any active young girl of sixteen or eighteen
-can do the like, for it was accomplished not by any mysterious or
-difficult process, nor by any exertion of physical strength, but by
-patiently following out, step by step, the processes which I am about
-to describe, and which are substantially those of Baucher, adapted to
-the use of a person of total inexperience, and that person a lady.
-
-If any such, having accompanied me thus far, feels the impulse to
-try to improve her own mount, I will confide to her the fact that
-the incidents narrated really occurred within the last few years
-not a hundred miles from New York; and I hope that the following
-propositions, which are literally true, will help to encourage her
-to an undertaking in which she will find amusement, exercise, and a
-discipline as useful to herself as to her horse:
-
-1. If, as is very likely, you feel a little afraid of your horse, you
-may be assured that your horse is a great deal more afraid of you.
-
-2. If you can only make clear to him what you wish him to do, he will
-try his best to do it, and will feel amply repaid for his efforts by a
-few kind words and caresses.
-
-3. His narrow brain can entertain only one idea at once, and therefore
-only one problem, and that a simple one, must be given him at a time.
-
-4. Once the problem is mastered, a very little practice makes the
-performance of the task instinctive, so that it will be performed at
-the proper signal, even against his own will, provided his mind is
-occupied with something else.
-
-This course of lessons is prepared with these facts in view.
-
-"But is horse-breaking a fitting amusement for young ladies?" a mother
-asks, and with an air indicating that to her, at least, a reply seems
-quite unnecessary. My dear madam, it is not horse-breaking we are
-talking of, but horse-training, which is a very different thing. There
-are, doubtless, many women who could break a colt if they chose, but it
-is an undertaking which we certainly do not recommend. In the "breaking
-to harness" of an untamed horse there is naturally included more or
-less of training, but the essential lesson to be taught is that it is
-useless to resist the will of man, for sooner or later the horse will
-test the question, and put forth every effort to throw off control.
-When, however, panting and exhausted, he finally submits, he has
-learned the necessary lesson; and whether it be after a long fight with
-a brutal rough-rider, or a physically painless struggle with an adroit
-Rarey, he has learned it for life. Henceforth he accepts the supremacy
-of the human race, and, unless under the goad of maddening pain or
-terror, will never, save in rare instances, really rebel; obeying not
-men only, but women, children, and even the very tools and implements
-of man, so that a dog may lead him by the bridle. Like a spoiled child,
-however, a horse will sometimes presume upon indulgence, and, to use a
-mother's phrase, will try to see how far he can go.
-
-At such times he is best opposed not by violence, but by firmness,
-reinforced, perhaps, now and then by a sharp cut with the whip, which,
-given unexpectedly at the precise moment of disobedience, will have the
-settling effect ascribed to the time-honored nursery "spank," and will
-bring him to his senses. Generally, however, what seems insubordination
-is in reality nervousness, which requires soothing, not punishment, and
-which you will be careful not to increase by fidgeting or by brusque
-movements of the reins. Even when severity is needed, a reproof in a
-cold, stern tone is often more effective than the lash.
-
-Thousands of young girls, who for various reasons cannot ride in
-winter, have every summer within reach horses quite as good as the
-average of those at city riding-schools, but which they are never
-allowed to mount.
-
-They look wistfully at the honest animals, longing for the exercise
-which would be so beneficial to their health and to their physical
-development, while so delightfully exhilarating to their spirits;
-but one horse is pronounced "skittish," another "hard-mouthed," and
-so on to the end. Nevertheless, some enterprising damsel manages to
-overcome all opposition, and, skirted, hatted, gloved, sets off in fine
-spirits. The horse, accustomed to the resistance of a heavy vehicle,
-moves forward with slow and heavy strides. Urged to greater speed, he
-rolls his shoulders so that it is almost impossible to rise to his
-trot. When put to the canter he pounds along the road, his hind-feet
-kept far in the rear and his head swaying up and down, while, missing
-the customary support of the bearing-rein, he all the time leans his
-heavy head on his rider's delicate arm, till it seems as if she would
-be pulled out of the saddle. However, the fresh open air is there, and
-the scenery; exercise, too, in plenty, and the pleasure of independent
-movement, so that our heroine is half inclined to persevere. But,
-alas! an equestrian party on well-bitted, light-stepping horses sweeps
-by, casting a pitying glance at her rustic mount and helpless plight.
-Mortified and discouraged, she goes home and dismounts, determined not
-to try again. Nevertheless, her horse is very likely quite as good as
-theirs, and all he wants is a little "handling," as the horsemen say.
-For twenty-five dollars a riding-master will turn him over to her as
-docile and supple as any of them, and, with a little time and trouble,
-she can do it herself for nothing.
-
-As for the proficiency in riding requisite, it is only necessary that
-you should not depend upon the reins for your balance--a common habit,
-but one destructive of all delicacy of the horse's mouth.
-
-As the first half-dozen lessons of this course are to be given on
-foot, a riding-habit would only be in the way; so go to your first
-_tete-a-tete_ with your new scholar in a stout walking-dress, easy in
-the waist, short of skirt, and of stuff that will bear scouring, for
-frothy lips will certainly be wiped on it. Let the hat be trim, the
-gloves strong and old, and the boots heavy with low heels.
-
-The saddle should, if possible, be of the safe and easy modern pattern,
-with hunting-horn and low pommel on the right side--but of course any
-one which does not gall the horse can be made to do. It should have
-at least two strong girths, and must be so padded with wool as not to
-touch the backbone. Make sure, before putting it on, that there are no
-tacks loose or likely to become so in the lining.
-
-[Illustration: A GOOD SADDLE.]
-
-The bridle should be a double one, with one "snaffle" or jointed
-bit, and one curb-bit, each having, of course, separate reins and
-headstalls. By-and-by you can use a single bridle, if you prefer, with
-whichever bit you think best suited to your hand and your horse's
-mouth.
-
-The whip should be elastic and capable of giving a sharp cut (though
-you may never need to administer one with it), and it is convenient to
-have a loop of cord or ribbon by which it may be hung to the wrist. A
-good birch switch is better for your present purpose than the usual
-flimsy "lady's whip;" and if you are in the country, it makes a good
-whip to begin with, as you will probably soon wish to substitute a crop.
-
-The place of instruction should be as retired as possible, so that
-there may be nothing to distract the horse's attention.
-
-For the first few lessons it will be well, if you are not thoroughly at
-home with horses, to have a man--some friend or attendant--near at hand
-to give you confidence by his presence, and to come to your aid in case
-of necessity.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON I.
-
-COMING TO THE WHIP.
-
-
-Have the horse brought saddled and bridled. Walk quietly up in front of
-him, with your riding-whip under your arm, and look him kindly in the
-face. See that the bridle fits properly, as a careless groom may have
-neglected to adjust it to the length of the head.
-
-The _throat-latch_ should be loose enough to permit the chin to come
-easily to the breast; the bits should lie in their proper place on the
-_bars_, and the curb-chain should lie flat in the _chin groove_, just
-tight enough to allow your fore-finger to pass under it. The _bars_ are
-that part of the gum between the _grinders_, or back teeth, and the
-_nippers_, or front teeth, which in the mare is destitute of teeth, and
-in the horse has a tusk called the _bridle-tooth_.
-
-It is upon these bars, of course, that the bits should lie, and the
-curb-bit, according to military rule, at an inch above the tusk.
-By general usage they are placed too high, the proper place of the
-curb-bit being not up in the corner of the lips, but opposite or nearly
-opposite the chin groove, which is just above the swell of the lower
-lip. If the curb-chain is too loose the bit will "fall through," or
-turn around in the mouth. If it is too tight, or is ill adjusted, or
-if, from the bits being too high, it slips up where the skin is thinner
-and the bones sharper, it will give such pain that, to avoid it, the
-nose will be thrust out instead of being brought in. The chain should
-press below the snaffle, or the latter will unhook it. Adjust and
-settle the various straps with your hand, speaking kindly to your horse
-at the same time; but when you have begun to teach him, reserve all
-praises and caresses to reward him when he has done well. It is a good
-plan to give him a lump of sugar before you begin and after you finish
-each lesson.
-
-[Illustration: A PROPERLY FITTED CURB-CHAIN.]
-
-Now, standing in front of the horse, take both curb-reins in the left
-hand at six inches below the bit, and, with the whip held tip downward
-in the right hand, strike him a light blow on the breast; in about a
-second give him another, and continue striking at the same interval,
-looking calmly at him the while, and following him if he steps backward
-or sideways.
-
-Sooner or later, and usually very soon, he will come straight towards
-you; then instantly relax his head, say "Bravo! bravo!" and stroke
-him on the face and neck. You will very likely hear him give a deep
-sigh of relief, like a frightened child. Give him half a minute or
-more, according to circumstances, to look about and recover from his
-nervousness--for you will find that his nerves work a good deal like
-your own--and then begin again, allowing him after every trial a
-half-minute or so of rest.
-
-It will not be long before he discovers that the way to avoid the whip
-is to come straight to you, and he will do so at the least motion of
-it. Take advantage of this to make him curve his neck, put his head in
-the proper perpendicular position, and bring his haunches under him,
-by holding him back with the curb-reins as he presses towards you.
-This lesson, to a careless observer, looks rather pretty than useful,
-but is indispensable for your purpose, for it gives you the means
-of preventing the horse from backing while you are teaching him the
-flexions of the jaw and of the neck. It shows him, also, that the whip
-is only to be dreaded when he disobeys, so that later on it will become
-in your hands, strange as it may now seem to you, a powerful means
-of calming his ardor and soothing his impatience, and thus sparing
-your bridle-hand the sometimes excessive fatigue of restraining his
-impetuosity.
-
-In practice it is not necessary to carry this instruction to the point
-where the horse will come to you from so great a distance as shown in
-the accompanying cut, though there is no difficulty in so doing.
-
-A certain English nobleman used to say that a man was as much above his
-ordinary self on horseback as he was at other times above the brutes.
-Possibly more than one young equestrian, remembering the exhilaration
-of some morning ride, the quickened appreciation, the redoubled
-enjoyment of the beauties of nature, and of the charm of congenial
-companionship, will be ready to echo the sentiment. It is only true,
-however, even approximately, _when the rider controls all the forces
-of the horse_, and it is the object of the present article to put this
-perfect control within the reach of every one willing to take the time
-and trouble to acquire it, for not daring, but calmness, not strength,
-but perseverance, are the qualities requisite.
-
-Both time and trouble undoubtedly will be required, for while, by even
-a careless use of this method, your horse may be made vastly more
-comfortable under the saddle, yet only by tact and patience can you win
-that mastery over his every volition by which his splendid strength,
-courage, and endurance will seem to be added to your own. You will
-find him, however, no tiresome pupil. On the contrary, every day will
-increase your pleasure both in his progress and in his companionship,
-for he will soon become attached to you, and will now and then turn
-his head and look at you with such an expression in his eyes that
-you will think the old belief in the transmigration of souls not so
-very wonderful after all. You will, besides, find in your lessons no
-contemptible discipline of character, for you will have to conquer your
-natural timidity in feeling your weakness opposed to his strength, to
-suppress your impatience when he is slow of apprehension, to remain
-calm when he is restive, and to award him your caresses, not because
-his neck is sleek and beautiful, but because he has done exactly as you
-directed. You will find also that they will have a tendency to improve
-your seat, by taking your attention from yourself, and with it some of
-the involuntary stiffness always born of self-consciousness.
-
-A different, but equally practical, result of knowing something of
-horse-training is that wherever you may be you will have no difficulty
-in getting a mount--no small advantage either, as many an enthusiastic
-young girl can testify as she remembers the stony look which came
-over some comfortable farmer's countenance when she confidingly asked
-to ride one of his round-bellied horses. Many an owner of a trained
-saddle-horse would gladly have him ridden carefully by one capable
-of keeping him "in good form," while every horse-owner, no matter
-how poor his nags, dreads an ignorant rider as he does the epizooty.
-Probably scores of country stable-keepers and thousands of farmers,
-after a season's experience with ordinary city riders, have vowed never
-to let a woman mount one of their horses again. One of the former,
-at a popular summer resort, said to the writer, "Two ladies hurt my
-hosses more last summer than all the rest of the work. They ain't no
-more saddles to be found in my stable!" A neighboring farmer, who had
-at first thought to reap a golden harvest from his five excellent
-horses at a dollar a ride, hereupon remarked, "They hain't no sense.
-They think a horse will go like a machine, and all they've got to do
-is to turn steam on with the whip." Very different would have been
-the verdict had the riders but possessed even a slight experience in
-training, for the horses would have come from their hands improved in
-mouth and gait, and almost certainly uninjured by bad usage.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON II.
-
-TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY (_FLEXION DE LA MACHOIRE_), USING THE CURB.
-
-
-Begin by assuring yourself that the horse has forgotten nothing of the
-previous lesson. Do not allow him to sidle up to you upon your movement
-of the whip towards him, nor to twist his nose towards you, but make
-him advance in a straight line.
-
-Now, standing at the left of the horse's head, with your feet firmly
-planted a little way apart, take the left snaffle-rein in the left
-hand, and the left curb-rein in the right, at five or six inches from
-their respective bits, and having brought the head into the proper
-perpendicular position, pull the two hands apart with gentle but steady
-force. Hold your whip, meanwhile, tip downward in the right hand, to
-prevent him from running back, which can be done without relaxing your
-pull by tapping him with it upon the breast.
-
-The object of this lesson, as well as of those which follow, is to
-overcome involuntary muscular contraction. In some cases, as probably
-in the present one, the contractions are simply nervous, and will cease
-with the mental cause; in others the muscles have grown into improper
-positions, so that time will be required to set them right.
-
-[Illustration: FLEXION OF THE JAW--USING THE CURB.]
-
-Your object at present is to get the jaw relaxed, so that you can move
-it at pleasure without resistance, and this may take time and patience,
-for you must not be satisfied with anything less than complete success,
-or you will repent it later. At first, however, seize the slightest
-involuntary opening of the horse's mouth as an excuse to relax your
-hold, caress and praise him, then let him stand a half-minute with his
-head free, and begin again.
-
-When he is submissive, and pleased with you, he will almost always show
-it by gently champing his bit; but do not be deceived by a nervous
-simulation which you will probably detect, and which consists in
-opening the mouth a very little and immediately gripping the bit again.
-You will have been completely successful when, by simply drawing on the
-curb-reins, the head is brought to the proper perpendicular position,
-and the bit, instead of being gripped, is held lightly in the mouth,
-or, to use the school term, when the horse is "light in hand."
-
-This is the only lesson in the series in which it is possible (though
-not probable) that your unaided strength may be insufficient; if so,
-get some one to help you over the first resistance of the horse.
-With care and tact, however, you will in all probability require no
-assistance.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON III.
-
-TO HOLD THE BIT LIGHTLY, USING THE SNAFFLE.
-
-
-Begin by repeating in proper order all that has been done at the
-previous lessons. Now, having got the horse "light in hand" with the
-curb, relax the curb-rein and try to keep him light with the snaffle.
-
-He will probably begin to bear on it. If so, restrain him by successive
-tugs, punishing him a little with the curb, if necessary, and always
-rewarding him with praises and caresses when he does well. Avoid
-any violent use of the curb, or the horse, in his efforts to escape
-the pain, may get his tongue over the bit, and thus acquire a very
-troublesome habit. It must be remembered that the bit being the
-principal channel of communication between his mind and yours, his
-whole attention is concentrated upon it, and he is almost as much
-disconcerted by a sudden harsh movement of it as you would be by an
-unexpected shout in your ear.
-
-By this time your groom is perhaps watching you with interest, and
-may be trusted to repeat your handling, thus saving you some time and
-trouble; but, as a general thing, two lessons a day of from half to
-three-quarters of an hour each, are as much as a horse can receive with
-profit.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON IV.
-
-TO LOWER THE HEAD.
-
-
-Always look over your horse before beginning your instruction, to see
-that he has not met with any mishap. Observe that his eye is bright and
-that he feels in good spirits; run your eye over his limbs to detect
-any cut, bruise, or swelling; see that the hoofs are not cracked.
-
-Assure yourself that he is properly groomed--one good test being
-the absence of scurf at the roots of the mane; that his mouth has
-been sponged out before putting in the bit, his hoofs wiped off
-clean--never, however, blacked--and that he is properly saddled and
-bridled. With a little practice you will do all this in half a minute,
-while you are buttoning your gloves. About once a week ask after his
-food and appetite, and make the groom show you his shoes; and when
-the time comes for him to be re-shod (which should be at least once
-a month) positively forbid any trimming of the frog or of the inside
-of the hoof--any "cleaning up of the foot," as farriers are pleased
-to call it. The only part to be touched with the knife is the bottom
-of the outer, horny shell, which is not half an inch thick; and even
-this must be cut with moderation, never burned by fitting the shoe
-to it hot--the common makeshift of lazy farriers--nor filed on the
-outside, as both these operations not only weaken the hoof but impair
-Nature's arrangement for oiling and lubricating it. Should the horse
-not bear equal weight on all four legs, move him a step to see if the
-faulty posture may not have been accidental; and if it is repeated,
-examine the "favored" leg, carefully laying your bare hand on the hoof
-and joints to detect inflammation, feeling along the bones for lumps,
-comparing any suspicious spot with the same part of the corresponding
-leg, observing whether it is warmer or more sensitive than its fellow.
-
-[Illustration: LOWERING THE HEAD.]
-
-Having assured yourself that your horse is in perfect order, and
-that he has forgotten nothing of your previous instruction, you will
-now proceed to the lesson of the day. Place yourself on his left, or
-"near," side, take the snaffle-reins at a few inches from the bit, and
-pull his head downward. Should he not yield, cross the reins, by taking
-the right rein in the left hand and _vice versa_, which will pinch his
-jaw sharply, and pull again till he drops his head, when you will hold
-it down a few seconds, praising him the while; then raise it up, and
-allow him a little time to rest.
-
-[Illustration: PUNISHMENT IN CASE OF RESISTANCE.]
-
-For our young readers we give below a few of the more usual technical
-terms, of which it will be found convenient to have a knowledge in the
-course of these lessons:
-
-_Amble._--A gait like pacing, but slower, in which the two legs on the
-same side are moved together.
-
-_Appel._--The gentle tug on the rein given by the horse at each step.
-
-_Arriere-main._--That part of the horse back of the saddle, called, not
-quite correctly, in this article, the croup.
-
-_Avant-main._--That part of the horse forward of the saddle--the
-forehand.
-
-_Bore._--To lean on the bit.
-
-_Bridle-tooth._--Tusk found in the horse's mouth, though not in the
-mare's, between nippers and grinders.
-
-_Bucking._--Leaping vertically into the air with all four feet at once.
-
-_Chin Groove._--That part of underjaw next the swell of lower lip in
-which curb-chain rests.
-
-_Curb._--Bit without joint, with levers at side and chain, which,
-passing under jaw, serves as a fulcrum to communicate pressure of bit
-to bars of mouth.
-
-_Deux Pistes._--To go on _deux pistes_ is to advance with the body
-placed obliquely, so that the hind feet move on a different line or
-_piste_ from the fore.
-
-_Elbow._--Joint of fore-leg next above knee, lying next horse's side.
-
-_Fetlock._--Joint next below knee.
-
-_Forearm._--That part of leg between elbow and knee.
-
-_Forge._--To strike the toe of the fore-foot with the toe of the
-hind-foot--usually the result of bad shoeing.
-
-_Frog._--Triangular piece of spongy horn in middle of sole of foot,
-forming a cushion for the navicular bone.
-
-_Grinders._--Back teeth.
-
-_Hand._--Four inches (one-third of a foot).
-
-_Hand-gallop._--A slow gallop.
-
-_Haute Ecole--Haut Manege._--The complete course of training given in
-the French military riding-schools. To translate this by "high-school,"
-as is sometimes done, produces a ludicrous impression.
-
-_Hock._--Joint of hind-leg between thigh and shank.
-
-_Interfere._--To strike the fetlock with the foot--often caused by bad
-shoeing.
-
-_Manege._--Horse-training, also the training-school itself.
-
-_Nippers._--Front teeth.
-
-_Pace._--A rapid gait, in which the fore and hind foot on same side
-move at same time and strike the ground together.
-
-_Pastern._--Bones between fetlock and foot.
-
-_Passage._--Moving sideways, as to close up or open the ranks, as in
-cavalry exercises.
-
-_Pirouette._--Wheeling on the hind-legs.
-
-_Pirouette renversee._--Wheeling on the fore-legs.
-
-_Piaffer._--A slow and cadenced trot, in which the horse balances a
-certain time on each pair of feet.
-
-_Piste._--The imaginary circle (usually, however, a well-beaten track)
-three feet from the wall of the _manege_.
-
-_Poll._--Top of head between the ears.
-
-_Rack._--A gait somewhat similar to _single-foot_.
-
-_Ramener._--To bring the head to the perpendicular.
-
-_Rassembler._--To get the horse together, with his legs well under him
-and his head perpendicular.
-
-_Shank._--Parts of fore-leg between knee and fetlock, and parts of
-hind-leg between hock and fetlock.
-
-_Single-foot._--A very rapid gait, taught principally in the Western
-States of America, in which one foot is put down at a time.
-
-_Snaffle._--Bit jointed in middle, without side levers or chin-chain.
-
-_Spavins_ and _Splints_.--Excrescences on bones of legs, usually caused
-by strain. When they occur on the fore-shanks they are called splints,
-and may do no harm. If on the hind-legs they are called spavins, and
-usually result in permanent lameness.
-
-_Stifle._--Joint of hind-leg between hip and hock, lying against
-horse's side.
-
-_Surcingle._--A girth extending entirely around the horse.
-
-_Thigh._--Popularly speaking, it comprises the two upper joints of
-hind-leg from hip to hock.
-
-_Throat-latch._--That strap of the bridle which passes under the throat.
-
-_Withers._--Highest point of shoulder between neck and saddle.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON V.
-
-TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE REINS HELD BELOW THE BIT
-(_FLEXIONS DE L'ENCOLURE_).
-
-
-Before beginning each lesson it is well, as has been already
-recommended, to review hastily the instruction previously given.
-
-Now place yourself on the left side of your horse, with your
-riding-whip tip downward in your right hand, and with your feet firmly
-planted a little apart. Take the right curb-rein in your right hand
-at about six inches from the lever of the bit, and the left curb-rein
-in your left at three inches from the lever, and having brought the
-horse's head to a perpendicular position, pull the two hands steadily
-apart, moving the right hand to the right and the left hand to the
-left, so as to pry the horse's head around to the right by means of
-the twist of the bit in his mouth. If he offers to back, stop him by
-tapping his breast with the whip; if he tries to pull away his head,
-hold on tight, until presently he will turn his head to the right,
-when you will instantly say, "Bravo! bravo!" and after holding it so
-a few seconds, bring it back to its original position. Very soon he
-will take the idea, and you will bring his head around until it faces
-backward, being careful to keep it always exactly perpendicular, and
-not to allow the horse to move it of his own accord in any direction.
-
-[Illustration: "PULLING THE HANDS STEADILY APART."]
-
-Now try to obtain this flexion with the right-hand rein alone, only
-using the left hand to assist it if he fails to understand or to obey,
-and also to bring back the head to its original position.
-
-To bend the neck to the left requires simply a reversal of the process
-just described, and will give you probably no trouble. Do not be
-satisfied with anything else than an easy, graceful, and patient
-obedience on the part of the horse. Should he back or fidget out of
-his place, bring him back to it before going on, as you will find that
-his associations (unconscious, doubtless) with place are remarkable,
-and that any fault is likely to be repeated on the spot where it was
-first committed.
-
-[Illustration: TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT OR LEFT, WITH THE REINS BELOW
-THE BITS.]
-
-When he will look backward on either side, and remain looking so upon
-your drawing upon the proper rein, the lesson is perfect. The utility
-of it may not appear at first, but will be evident at a later stage of
-your instructions.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON VI.
-
-TO BEND THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT, WITH THE REINS THROWN OVER THE NECK.
-
-
-Take the left snaffle-rein in the left hand at about a foot from the
-bit, and with the right hand draw the right snaffle-rein over the
-horse's neck just in front of the shoulder, until both sides pull
-equally on the bit and the horse is "light in hand." Then, by drawing
-upon the right rein gradually, bend his head around to the right,
-gently feeling the left rein so as to keep the bit straight in the
-mouth and prevent him from moving faster than you wish; for in this, as
-in all other cases, while he is to do exactly what you direct, he is to
-do nothing more.
-
-[Illustration: GETTING THE HORSE "LIGHT IN HAND."]
-
-To bend the neck to the left, you will, of course, reverse the
-operation above described, standing on the other side of the horse,
-taking the right snaffle-rein in the right hand at a foot from the
-bit, and drawing the left rein over the shoulder with the left hand.
-Keep the horse "light in hand" all the time, and his head perfectly
-perpendicular, as any twisting of the nose to one side has a ludicrous
-appearance. Now repeat with the curb.
-
-[Illustration: PULLING ON THE RIGHT REIN.]
-
-
-
-
-LESSON VII.
-
-TO MOVE THE CROUP TO RIGHT AND LEFT WITH THE WHIP.
-
-
-It is unfortunate that we have not in English a vocabulary of definite
-terms relating to the training and riding of horses. We will for
-convenience call all that part of the horse in front of the saddle the
-_forehand_, and all that part back of the saddle the _croup_.
-
-Take both snaffle-reins in the left hand at a few inches from the bit,
-and standing near the horse's left shoulder, get him "light in hand"
-with the bit; and if his hind-legs are not well under him, make him
-bring them forward by tapping him gently on the rump with your extended
-whip, keeping the forehand motionless by your hold on the bit.
-
-Now, holding his head so that he will not move his left fore-foot, tap
-him lightly on the left flank near the hip until he moves the croup one
-step to the right.
-
-Then pat and praise him, and if he has not moved his right fore-foot,
-tap his right leg with the whip to make him bring it forward even with
-the left. After a little rest begin again, asking and allowing only
-one step at a time, and persevering until he will move the croup one
-step over to each tap of the whip, pivoting on the left fore-foot and
-walking the right foot by little steps around it.
-
-[Illustration: MOVING THE CROUP ONE STEP TO THE RIGHT.]
-
-When he is perfect with the snaffle, repeat the process with the curb,
-keeping his hind-legs well under him, and holding him "light in hand,"
-while maintaining his left fore-foot immovable, with a delicate touch,
-to resemble as much as possible the action of the rein when drawn from
-the saddle.
-
-Now repeat the process to the left, taking your stand near the right
-shoulder, and, with both snaffle-reins in your right hand and the whip
-in your left, proceed as before until the horse will walk one step at
-each tap of the whip around the right fore-foot, which should in its
-turn be kept so firmly in place as to bore a hole in the ground. Repeat
-with the curb.
-
-This lesson, which will last, very likely, two or three days, may
-appear to some of no practical utility, but it is indispensable alike
-to your comfort when mounted, to the safety of those who accompany
-or meet you, and to the continued education of your horse. Who has
-not seen an untrained animal force his rider to dismount to lift some
-gate-latch which was really within easy reach, or prancing about in a
-crowd, to the terror and vexation of his neighbors, or in momentary
-danger of hooking his legs into the wheels of passing vehicles?
-
-Now, if you trample on any one, or upset a light vehicle, though
-you risk, and perhaps break, your own bones, yet you are liable for
-damages; and this fact is so well known that a suit will be promptly
-begun against you. Besides, for your own sake you must have it in your
-power to get your horse's haunches, and with them your own person, out
-of danger from careless or mischievous drivers--just as a cavalryman
-has to save his horse from a slash or thrust.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON VIII.
-
-MOUNTED.
-
-
-_To Advance at Touch of Heel and Stop at Touch of Whip on Back._--Your
-horse's education must now be carried on from the saddle, and should
-he never have been ridden, it will be prudent to have a man mount him
-first upon a man's saddle, and afterwards upon your side-saddle, with
-a blanket wrapped around the legs to simulate a skirt. If the previous
-lessons have been carefully given, you will have no trouble in making
-him stand wherever you please while you mount, nor in getting him
-"light in hand" afterwards. First, however, see that the saddle fits
-snugly in its place, and that the girths are good and in order. If
-there are more than two, let the third be loose while the others are
-tight. The writer once saw a powerful horse burst two good English
-girths by a sudden bound and throw off his rider, saddle and all. If
-the girths and saddle are not very strong, put a broad, thin strap--a
-surcingle will do--over all.
-
-[Illustration: GETTING A HORSE ACCUSTOMED TO SKIRTS.
-
-(An example of the "flying trot.")]
-
-Being mounted, gather the reins all into the left hand in the following
-manner: Draw the right snaffle-rein between the fore and middle
-fingers, and the left snaffle rein under the little finger into the
-palm, throwing the ends forward together over the first finger, to be
-held by the thumb; in like manner draw the curb-reins into the palm on
-each side of the ring-finger, the left rein, of course, below, and the
-right above it, throwing the ends, like those of the snaffle, forward
-over the fore-finger and under the thumb. Now taking the curb-rein by
-the seam, draw it through your fingers till both reins fall equally on
-the bit; then do the same by the snaffle, but draw it so much tighter
-than the curb that the latter will hang loose, and any movement of your
-hand will be felt through the snaffle. Grasp all the reins firmly, your
-hand back upward, with wrist a little bent and elbow near your side, so
-that if the horse, stumbling, thrust his nose suddenly out, you will
-not be jerked from the saddle.
-
-[Illustration: SHOWING REINS IN LEFT HAND.]
-
-All this you will quickly get the knack of, and do as easily as you
-would thread a needle. You will observe that, having the width of three
-fingers between the two snaffle-reins, you can, by bending your wrist
-to right or left, guide the horse as easily as with the reins in both
-hands. Get the horse "light in hand" by the usual play of the bit,
-first the curb, then the snaffle, tapping him on the right side, just
-forward of the girth, if he fails to respond or offers to back.
-
-[Illustration: ADVANCING AT TOUCH OF HEEL.]
-
-Now press him just back of the girth with your left heel, at the same
-time relaxing the rein a little. If he steps forward, pat and praise
-him, but if not, press him more firmly, at the same time touching him
-as before with the whip. When he moves forward praise him, and after a
-few seconds stop him, leaning back a little and laying your whip by a
-turn of the wrist on his back just behind the saddle. Then recommence,
-and persevere until he will start promptly forward at the touch of the
-heel, and stop at the touch of the whip on his back, keeping "light
-in hand" the while. If he is very sluggish you may have to strike him
-smartly for not answering instantly to the heel, but he will soon
-learn not to wait for the blow. Let the heel act close to the girth,
-as you will soon wish to move the croup over by the same means applied
-farther back. It is well not to start with the whip, nor by chirping or
-clucking, which is as likely to excite your companion's horse as your
-own, and is annoying to most people.
-
-[Illustration: STOPPING AT TOUCH OF WHIP ON BACK.]
-
-Accustom your horse to stop short, whether at the pull on the reins,
-the touch of the whip, or the word "Whoa."
-
-After riding have the saddle removed, and should a puffy spot appear
-on the back where it has pressed, take the hint at once and have the
-padding eased over the place, or a tedious and vexatious "saddle-gall"
-may result. There is no better treatment for such a spot than bathing
-with very hot water. As a preventive, however, it is an excellent plan
-to bathe the back with cold water, afterwards carefully rubbing dry.
-
-[Illustration: THE WALK (COLT IN TRAINING).]
-
-The several instruments of torture represented in the above cut are the
-_dumb-jockey_ upon the horse's back, the _cavesson_ around his nose,
-and the _lunging-cord_ in the hands of the groom--to whom the artist
-has very properly given the countenance of one who, had he lived in
-old times, would have lent a hand at the rack or the iron boot without
-wincing. The dumb-jockey has elastic reins, which are adjusted so
-as to hold the head in the proper position. The cavesson is a broad
-leather band, stiffened with iron, which is fastened around the nose
-just where the cartilage joins the bone, so that a tug upon it causes
-great pain, and will bring anything but determined vice to submission.
-These appliances are usually only the resort of laziness or ignorance,
-for none of them can for a moment compare with the human hand; and in
-fact they effect no saving in time, for it is not safe to leave a horse
-a minute alone with a dumb-jockey on his back, as he may rear and fall
-over backward at the risk of his life. The writer knew of an accident
-of this kind which ended the victim's usefulness in the saddle, and he
-has seen a strong and proud horse sweat profusely, with the thermometer
-at ten degrees below the freezing point, while being _lunged_, _i.e._,
-driven in a ring, with a dumb-jockey on.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON IX.
-
-MOUNTED.
-
-
-_To Bend the Neck to Right and Left._--You can now, if you please,
-substitute a stiff _crop_ for the flexible whip you have so far made
-use of. Having taken your place in the saddle and got your horse light
-in hand review the previous lesson; then, having your horse still
-carefully light in hand and light on foot--that is, with hind-feet
-well under him--draw gently upon the left snaffle-rein. When the
-horse's head has come around to your knee, keep it in that position
-an instant, and then put it straight again by drawing upon the right
-rein, insisting that his face remains perpendicular during the whole
-operation. Now go through the same process with the right snaffle-rein,
-and then repeat the whole operation with the curb. These flexions of
-the neck may now seem to you of doubtful utility, but as the education
-of the horse advances, your opinion will change. It is as rare for
-horses as for people to have a noble and graceful carriage; and while
-you cannot, of course, really change the shape of your mount, yet you
-can, by care, entirely change his appearance. His various gaits you
-can indeed improve, but for his _style_ he depends, nine times out of
-ten, entirely upon you, and if you are indifferent he will be careless
-and probably clumsy.
-
-[Illustration: BENDING THE NECK TO RIGHT AND LEFT.]
-
-
-
-
-LESSON X.
-
-THE WALK.
-
-
-This gait is apt to be hardly appreciated by youthful equestrians,
-whose love of excitement leads them often to prefer rapidity to grace
-of motion; but it can, with a little painstaking, be made swift and
-agreeable; and certainly, when light and animated, it shows off both
-horse and rider to better advantage than any other. It is, besides,
-an indispensable stage in the bitting of the horse; for until he will
-continue "light" while starting, stopping, and turning at a walk, he
-should not be put to a faster pace.
-
-Your chief difficulty will be his propensity to drop into a jog-trot
-as soon as you try to quicken his steps; but this must be overcome by
-stopping him immediately and then recommencing the walk, urging him
-forward with the heel and encouraging him to lift his feet quickly by
-a delicate play of the bit, but leaving his head as free as possible.
-This will give you occupation, probably, for several days. Do not
-forget to praise him when he does well.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XI.
-
-TO MOVE THE CROUP WITH HEEL AND WHIP (_PIROUETTE RENVERSEE_).
-
-
-Having your horse light in hand and light on foot (that is to say, as
-we have before explained, with his face perpendicular, the bit held
-lightly, and his weight well supported on his hind-legs), tap him on
-the right flank with your whip or "crop" till he moves the croup one
-step to the left. Your great difficulty will be to prevent him from
-moving his right fore-foot, which by careful play of the bit you must
-endeavor to keep fixed to the ground, while at each tap of the whip the
-other three feet move one step around it. When this lesson has been
-satisfactorily learned, proceed to teach in like manner the movement
-of croup to the right, pivoting on the left fore-foot, substituting,
-however, for the tap of the whip a pressure with the left heel, applied
-as far behind the girth as possible.
-
-[Illustration: MOVING THE CROUP WITH THE HEEL AND WHIP.]
-
-Should he not understand this pressure, interpret it to him with the
-whip. As long as there seems to be any mental effort required on his
-part, pause after each step to caress and praise him. Be careful to
-keep him calm while learning, or he may tread one foot upon the
-other, possibly inflicting a severe wound, and after dismounting
-inspect his feet carefully to make sure that this has not happened.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XII.
-
-TO GUIDE "BRIDLEWISE."
-
-
-Up to this time your horse has been guided as in driving, by a pull
-upon one side of the bit, that is to say, upon one corner of the mouth,
-and it is time now to substitute a simple pressure of the rein upon
-his neck. The chief difficulty to be encountered is in the fact that,
-as the rein is attached to the bit, the tension of it against one side
-of the neck pulls the bit on that side, consequently conveying to the
-horse an impression exactly opposite to that intended. This difficulty
-must be overcome by patience, for this instruction cannot be completed
-in a single lesson, but will have to be carried on simultaneously with
-other work for a week or more. It is given by carrying your hand over,
-whenever you turn, to the side towards which you wish to go, so that
-the reins will press against the neck. Thus, if you wish to turn to the
-left, draw on the left snaffle-rein, and as the horse answers to it,
-carry your hand to the left, so that the right reins press against the
-right side of the neck. This must be done with judgment, or the bit,
-being pulled too hard on the right side by the tension of the rein on
-the neck, will stop him in his turn. Of course you will seek as many
-occasions as possible for turning, choosing, in preference, places
-where your intention cannot be misunderstood, as at a corner, for
-instance. There is no better spot than some old orchard, for the horse
-instantly takes the idea of going around a tree, and there will be more
-or less shade, and probably good turf. While he is learning this lesson
-do not distract his attention by other instruction; but as soon as he
-has mastered it, see that his head is always turned in the direction
-towards which he is to go, for it is a habit with horses, as awkward
-as it is common, to turn one way and look the other. At the same time
-always lean in your saddle towards the centre of the curve you are
-describing, and at an angle increasing in proportion to your speed.
-
-[Illustration: GUIDING BRIDLEWISE (TURNING TO THE RIGHT).]
-
-Some English writers depreciate the above method of guiding the horse,
-preferring to use the bit exclusively, but it is almost universal in
-the United States, and its advantages for ordinary riders are numerous
-and evident. Indeed, Stonehenge, a well-known English authority, says
-that in "this way a horse can be turned with a much greater degree of
-nicety and smoothness than by acting on the corner of his mouth."
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XIII.
-
-THE TROT.
-
-
-Writers on the horse distinguish three kinds of trot, _viz._, the
-"jog" trot, the "true" trot, and the "flying" or "American" trot. In
-the first the feet remain longer on the ground than in the air, and
-lazy animals are naturally fond of it, while spirited horses sometimes
-drop into it from impatience of walking. It is, however, apt to be
-a slovenly gait, which, though easy to the rider, should hardly be
-permitted.
-
-In the flying trot the horse leaps a considerable distance through
-the air at each stride--evidently a mode of progression unsuited for
-ladies, who must attain speed in trotting by quickening the step
-without undue lengthening of the stride.
-
-Your first care will be to prevent your horse from losing his
-"lightness," as he will be inclined to do at every change of gait or
-increase of speed--and this, while often by no means easy, is yet a
-task to be thoroughly accomplished if you wish for comfort or style
-in the future. You will observe in trotting, as in all other gaits,
-at each step a slight tug on the rein, called by some writers the
-_appel_, and this you will ordinarily yield your hand to, so as to keep
-a steady feeling of the mouth.
-
-If, however, the horse begins to bear on the bit, hold your hand
-firmly, with the rein just so tight that at every step he will himself
-thrust his jaw against the curb. This will very likely bring him to his
-senses and restore his lightness, and if so, pat and praise him; but if
-not, tap him on the side with your whip, at the same time pulling on
-the curb for a second or two. If he does not yield to this, repeated
-two or three times, stop him short; and when, by the same method, you
-have got him to relax his gripe of the bit and arch his neck, allow him
-to go on again. He will dislike excessively to be stopped and started
-in this way, and when he finds that he will not be permitted to go in
-any way but the right one he will give up the attempt.
-
-Do not try to succeed by giving a long, steady pull, nor by using
-force, as it will do no good, and may cause the tongue to be put over
-the bit--a very troublesome trick. Remember, in stopping, to lean back,
-and lay your whip, by a movement of the wrist, on the horse's back.
-
-You will next turn your attention to your horse's gait. As the trot
-is rarely so easy that a lady can sit down to it with comfort, it is
-advisable to rise in the stirrup.
-
-This is difficult and fatiguing if the stride is too long, and you
-will therefore prevent its extending too much by giving a little tug
-on the rein just as each step is made, at the same time with the heel
-keeping up speed and animation.
-
-If your bitting has been thoroughly done, and your horse's mouth
-is fine and sensitive, you will probably find the snaffle best for
-trotting, and you will give a steady support with it.
-
-Keep the step quick, elastic, perfectly cadenced, and without any
-rolling of the shoulders.
-
-Should you happen to be mounted upon a horse which, from bad handling
-or his own faulty conformation, is disposed to "bore," or bear on his
-bit, you will ride with the curb, taking its reins in one hand, but
-in the other hand taking the snaffle, with the left rein drawn much
-tighter than the right. This will have an effect quite different from
-what one might expect, and will put a stop to this most fatiguing and
-annoying trick.
-
-This recipe is not found in Baucher's book, but is said to have been
-given by him verbally to his pupils, and it is really "a trick worth
-knowing." If it does not have the desired effect, however, when
-practised with the left snaffle-rein, try it with the right, as the
-mouth--for instance, from the effect of double harness--may not be
-equally sensitive on both sides.
-
-If you observe that the step of one foot is shorter than that of the
-other, making the horse appear lame, you may be almost sure you have
-fallen into the too common feminine practice of bearing too much of
-your weight on one side. An even balance in the saddle is of capital
-importance, and a rough-and-ready test is to observe whether the
-buttons of your habit are in the same plane as the horse's backbone,
-and your shoulders nearly equidistant from his ears--points of which
-you can judge as well as any one.
-
-In the matter of the horse's gait you must be equally exacting, not
-resting so long as you can perceive the slightest irregularity or
-difference between the strides. It is desirable to cultivate such
-a sensitiveness to all the horse's movements as will enable you to
-know where his feet are at all times without looking, and the first
-step towards this is to learn to "sit close to the saddle." This firm
-and easy seat, coveted by every rider, is attained by some with much
-greater difficulty than by others. Many riders will bump about on their
-saddles for thousands of miles without being "shaken into their seat,"
-because they neither abandon themselves to the instinct which correctly
-guides a child, nor, on the other hand, seek out and remove the cause,
-in the muscular contractions of the body and limbs.
-
-A loose sack of grain set upright on horseback does not jump up and
-down, and, while it is not desirable to be quite so inert as a bag of
-grain, yet a lesson may be learned from it--which is, that the lower
-part of the person, from the hips to the knees, should be kept firmly
-and steadily, though not stiffly, in place, while the waist, with the
-back bent slightly inward, should be as flexible as possible, and the
-whole upper part of the person pliant and supple, so as to yield with a
-certain _nonchalance_ to every movement.
-
-Nervous riders, like nervous horses, are those in whom involuntary
-muscular contractions persist the most obstinately.
-
-As both of the horse's strides are equal when the trot is true, it
-seems nonsense to talk, as some writers do, about the "leading foot" in
-trotting; and except that few horses are so perfectly symmetrical that
-both strides are equally elastic, there should be no difference to a
-man on which one he "rises," and he will therefore spare that foot and
-leg which, for any cause, he may suppose to be the weaker. A lady will
-without effort find the stride best suited to her.
-
-Horses are often trained in our Western States to trot when the rider
-touches the back of their neck, and to single-foot or pace when he
-makes play gently with the curb-bit. These signals are injudicious,
-because in harness a slight movement of the bit sets the horse so
-trained to single-footing, and there is no way to communicate to him
-your wish that he should trot. It is better, therefore, to give the
-signal to trot by taking a firm hold of the snaffle, and laying your
-whip gently on his hind-quarter while you incite to speed with your
-heel.
-
-After dismounting, observe whether your horse has _interfered_--that
-is, struck one or more of his fetlock joints with his hoofs; should
-the skin be knocked off, apply some healing ointment; and if the joint
-swells, bathe with water as hot as the hand will bear. This is the best
-remedy for all ordinary bruises and sprains.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XIV.
-
-THE GALLOP, HAND-GALLOP, AND CANTER.
-
-
-These are treated of by some writers as distinct, the canter being
-called "purely artificial;" but it will be convenient and sufficiently
-accurate for our purpose to take them up together and to consider the
-canter as what it in fact is--an _improved_, and not an "artificial,"
-gait. Horses undoubtedly often canter in a rude way without being
-taught, as may be seen often in the field, and not seldom in harness,
-and you will probably have little trouble in getting your horse to do
-the same. It is this natural canter which is called by country people
-the "lope." It is of importance, however, that your horse should not
-change his gait without orders, no matter how hard pressed, this being
-especially true if he is to be driven as well as ridden. The signal
-to canter should, therefore, be such as can be given only from the
-saddle. It is well not to use the whip for the purpose, but to try by
-raising the bridle to lift the forehand, while stimulating at the same
-time with the heel. Should he persist in trotting, do not get vexed
-or discouraged, for he is only resisting temptation to do what he
-has expressly been taught not to do; but continue your incitements,
-raising the bridle-hand firmly at every stride till you have got him
-fairly off his feet into a gallop, when you will soothe his nerves by
-patting and praising him, and gradually calm him down into a canter,
-lifting your hand at every stride to prevent his relapsing into a trot.
-When he will canter promptly at the signal, you will get him "light
-in hand" before giving it; then make him start without thrusting out
-his nose, and keep him light by the means already detailed in the
-lesson on the trot. Next you will bring his haunches forward under him,
-which is the great point, and increase the brilliancy of his action by
-stimulating him with heel and whip, while at each step you restrain
-him by a gentle pull, so that he will not spring forward so far as he
-intended. Persevere until he will canter as slowly as he would walk.
-Your best guide will be to observe the action of some well-trained and
-well-ridden horse, and to endeavor to obtain the same in yours.
-
-[Illustration: THE CANTER.]
-
-To _change the leading foot_ in cantering is, however, a more difficult
-matter, and we will postpone the consideration of it until his
-education is a little farther advanced. In the mean time you will avoid
-turning a sharp corner at a canter.
-
-The hand-gallop is simply a moderate gallop in which the ear observes
-three beats,
-
-[Music]
-
-as in the canter, but swifter; while in the extended gallop it hears
-but two,
-
-[Music]
-
-though given with a sort of rattle, which shows that neither the fore
-nor the hind feet strike the ground exactly together, as they do in
-leaping.
-
-_Keep to the left, as the law directs_, is an admonition on bridges and
-other thoroughfares in England which has often excited the surprise of
-Americans, very likely eliciting some such comment as "How stupid!"
-"How perfectly ridiculous!" Yet for many centuries it was really the
-only safe way to turn, whether on foot or on horseback, and as all our
-fashions of riding and driving are based upon it, it is hard to see why
-the custom should have changed in this country. In the olden time, when
-people went about principally on horseback, when roads were lonely and
-footpads plenty, it would have been "perfectly ridiculous" for a man to
-turn to the right and expose his defenceless bridle-arm to a blow from
-a bludgeon or slash from a hanger. Much more would it have been so had
-he a lady under his care, who would thus be left in the very front of
-danger, whether it might be of robbery from highwaymen, of insult from
-roistering riders, or of simple injury from passing vehicles. At the
-present day and in this country the danger last mentioned is the only
-one really to be feared, and it is so considerable that the question is
-often raised whether a lady be not safer at the right of her cavalier;
-but the still greater danger in this case of her being crushed between
-the horses, in case of either one springing suddenly towards the other,
-has caused it thus far to be decided in the negative. There is also
-always a possibility--slight, doubtless--of a lady's getting kicked or
-bitten when on the right; and it might be difficult for her companion,
-without risk to her limbs, to seize her horse by the head should he
-become refractory. In case of its becoming absolutely necessary to take
-a terrified or exhausted rider off of an unmanageable horse, there
-would probably be time for her escort to cross behind her and place
-himself at her left hand.
-
-Now that we are on the subject, we may give a word of caution as to
-some other dangers of the road. Among those to the rider, the most
-common is _shying_; but vigilance--and perpetual vigilance will be
-necessary--will reduce this to the rank of simple annoyance. Get your
-horse past the alarming object somehow, even if he has to be led; get
-him up to it if you can, and then pat and praise him; never let him
-hurry off after passing it; never whip him afterwards.
-
-Rearing is less common than shying, but more dangerous from the risk
-of pulling the horse over backward. To rear he must, of course, spring
-up with the fore-legs, and if his intention can be divined in time it
-may perhaps be frustrated by a smart stroke down the shoulder; but an
-active animal is usually up before his rider has had time to think, and
-the question is how to come safe down again. To this end, on no account
-pull on the bit, but, without letting go the rein, grasp a thick
-lock of the mane and hold yourself with it as close to the neck as
-possible--which will throw your weight in the best place, and prepare
-you to leap down, should it be necessary. If you have kept perfectly
-calm, so that the horse has not suspected that you were frightened,
-he will doubtless come down on his feet, and very likely may not rear
-again. If, however, you feel his hind-legs sink under him, he will be
-intending to throw himself down, and you must jump down instantly to
-avoid getting caught under the saddle.
-
-Kicking, when coming unexpectedly, is more likely than rearing to
-unseat the rider. If you withstand the first assault, however, get the
-horse's head up by an energetic use of the bit, and look out that he
-does not get it down again. It is needless to say that should either of
-the last two tricks become a habit, it will make the horse quite unfit
-for a lady's use.
-
-If your horse is restless and disposed to jump, or perhaps run, when
-horses or vehicles rapidly approach him from behind, occupy his
-attention by moving the bit a little from side to side in his mouth.
-
-Running away is undoubtedly serious business, but all authorities agree
-that the safest plan is to let the horse run, if there is room, and
-that the best lesson for him is to make him continue running after he
-wishes to stop. A steady pull on the bit is quite useless, and so is
-any cry of "Whoa! whoa!" at first. But after a little the bit should
-be vigorously _sawed_, so as to sway the head from side to side if
-possible, and thus confuse him, while you speak to him in a commanding
-tone.
-
-The dangers to the horse upon the road, however, are greater and more
-numerous than to yourself, but they may almost all be averted by care
-and watchfulness on your part. Beware of a fast pace on hard macadam;
-beware of loose stones, which may bruise the frog or cause a tedious
-sprain; beware of food, water, above all, of currents of air when he is
-warm.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XV.
-
-THE PIROUETTE, DEUX PISTES, PASSAGE.
-
-
-In the _pirouette ordinaire_ of the French _manege_ the horse turns
-upon one of his hind-legs, walking on the other three around it, just
-as in the _pirouette renversee_ of Lesson XI. he turned upon one of
-the fore-legs, around which he walked upon the other three; and now, as
-then, the chief difficulty is to keep him from moving the leg which is
-to serve as a pivot. The means for accomplishing this you have already
-acquired, and a pressure of the heel on the one side, or of the crop
-on the other, will prevent an intended movement of the croup, while
-by the rein against the neck you move the forehand to the one side or
-to the other. In wheeling to the left it is the left hind-foot, and
-to the right the right hind-foot, which serves as a pivot. If your
-horse is stiff and clumsy in this exercise it will probably be because
-you have not got him together, with his hind-legs well under him, but
-at best you will probably find him less supple on one side than the
-other. Begin by moving the forehand but one step at a time, keeping
-your horse calm, so that he may not wound one foot with the other,
-holding your own person motionless, and gradually accustoming him to
-slight and delicate effects of hand, heel, and whip, so that he may to
-a by-stander appear to move of his own volition.
-
-[Illustration: ORDINARY PIROUETTE.]
-
-The _piste_ (literally "trail" or "track") in the French _manege_ is
-an imaginary circle lying three feet distant from the wall; which
-imaginary line, however, becomes in practice a well-defined path, which
-the horse soon learns to follow with little guidance from his rider. To
-go, then, "on two _pistes_" is to cause the horse to advance with his
-body placed obliquely, so that the hind-feet move on a different line
-from the fore-feet. In the cut the horse is shown directly across the
-_piste_.
-
-[Illustration: GOING ON "DEUX PISTES."]
-
-The _passage_ is a side movement without advancing. By it the cavalry
-close up their ranks, and to a civilian it is useful in many ways. Both
-of these movements you are now able to execute at pleasure.
-
-[Illustration: THE PASSAGE.]
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XVI.
-
-BACKING.
-
-
-This lesson has been deferred thus far because, while it is one of the
-most practically and frequently useful, yet it is also the method which
-the horse naturally takes to escape from the unwonted constraint put
-upon the muscles of his neck and jaw in the course of the preceding
-lessons. You have had, therefore, to be on your guard hitherto against
-it; and had you taught it earlier you would have found your horse
-cunning enough to pretend to believe every play of the bit to be a
-signal to step back, and thus protract the instruction.
-
-Having, then, got your horse, as usual, well in hand, lean back and
-give a pull on the reins. If he steps back, well; if not, touch him
-with the heel or tap his side with the crop, and when he lifts his foot
-to step forward repeat the pull on the reins, when the foot will be
-replaced farther back; then pat and praise him, and persevere until he
-will, at each tug of the reins, move backward one step and no more.
-
-Should he swerve to right or left, straighten him by a tap or pressure
-of the crop on his right side, or by the pressure of the heel on the
-left, as the case may require.
-
-[Illustration: BACKING.]
-
-Your horse having learned to obey the pressure of the rein upon the
-neck, you may now, if you choose, adopt another method of holding the
-reins. It differs from that described in Lesson XIII. in that the two
-snaffle reins, instead of being separated by three fingers, have only
-one--the middle finger--between them; while the curb-reins, instead of
-coming into the hand between the snaffle-reins, come in below, having
-the little finger inserted between them.
-
-[Illustration: REINS IN HAND.]
-
-This method, though formerly the one usually taught, being that adopted
-by the English cavalry, has not, on the whole, as many advantages as
-the other for a civilian.
-
-[Illustration: ACT OF CHANGING REINS.]
-
-If you have occasion to use the left hand, or wish to rest it, change
-the reins into the right hand by placing the right, still holding the
-whip, over and in front of the left, both palms downward, inserting
-the right fore-finger between the reins separated by the left little
-finger, and so on, then grasping all together with the whip, and
-allowing the ends to pass out to the right.
-
-This does not disarrange the reins, but makes it possible for you to
-take them back into the left hand in an instant by passing the left
-hand in like manner over the right.
-
-
-
-
-LESSON XVII.
-
-RIDING IN CIRCLES.--CHANGE OF LEADING FOOT.
-
-
-You are now prepared to practise with profit a simple exercise, which
-you will find interesting to yourself, and, if carefully done, very
-improving to your horse. It is the riding in circles of small diameter.
-Mark out a number of rings of various sizes in some pasture-field with
-white pebbles or beans or small scraps of white paper, which may be
-scattered at intervals of two or three feet, so that the figures may
-not be remarked by the horse, but that he may receive his instruction
-from you only. Let the circles touch one another, so that you may
-change from one into the other, and thus turn to the right and left
-alternately. Begin at a walk, then proceed to a trot, practising first
-on the large circles, and then taking the smaller ones. Keep your
-horse "light in hand," and do not let him place his body across the
-line, but make him follow it accurately, with his neck and body bent
-around to the curve which it describes. When he is perfect in this
-exercise on level ground, move to some hill-side and begin again. When
-he can do figure 8's of a small size accurately at a smart trot on a
-pretty steep slope, you may congratulate your self on having made good
-progress, and may begin to do the large circles on level ground at a
-canter. Here comes in the troublesome matter of the "leading foot,"
-and if you do not understand it, you must not be discouraged, for many
-persons ride "hit or miss" their whole lives long without thinking or
-knowing anything about it. The expression, besides, is misleading, and
-you will do well to study up the subject first on straight lines. Get
-a friend to canter beside you, and observe the motion of his horse's
-feet. You will see that the two fore-feet and the two hind-feet strike
-the ground not only one later than the other, but one in advance of the
-other, and that the one which leaves the ground last steps past the
-other and is planted farthest forward. It is this foot taking the long
-stride which is called, although it moves last, the "leading foot."
-
-[Illustration: LEADING WITH THE RIGHT FORE-FOOT.]
-
-It ought not to make any difference to the horse with which foot he
-leads, nor to his rider, if a man, so long as he follows a straight
-line; but whenever he has to turn, it becomes both to horse and rider
-of importance--if the curve is sharp, of very great importance--that he
-should lead on the side towards which he is to turn.
-
-A little observation of your companion's horse when turning will make
-the reason clear to you. A woman's seat being on the left side of the
-horse, it is easier for her that the shoulder having the most motion
-should be on the right side, and ladies' saddle-horses are consequently
-trained to lead with the right foot; the result, we may remark, often
-being that the fore-foot which does most work gives out before the
-others.
-
-[Illustration: LEADING WITH THE LEFT FORE-FOOT.]
-
-The horse so trained, however, is in this way always ready to wheel
-to the right; but when he turns to the left, whether carrying man or
-woman, he must change and lead with the left foot; and if he has not
-sense enough to do so himself, you must teach him.
-
-This, really, is not an easy task for an amateur, especially for
-the amateur feminine, who has not the efficient masculine resource
-of a pair of spurred heels. Even with their aid a man is often so
-embarrassed to make his horse comprehend that he gives up the attempt,
-and contents himself with "slowing down" before turning, his failure
-usually resulting from the insufficient previous training of the horse,
-coupled with his own ignorance of the successive short steps by which
-the latter may be led up to the performance of the wished-for act.
-
-If you have been exact in the instruction hitherto given--if your
-bitting has been so thorough that your horse remains "light in hand"
-during all the manoeuvres described in the foregoing lessons; if he
-responds instantly to the pressure of the rein upon the neck, and to
-the touch of the heel and of the whip upon the flank, so that you can
-move the forehand and the croup separately or at the same time in the
-same or in opposite directions; if he will rise from a walk into a
-canter without trotting; and if, finally, your drilling in the flexions
-of the neck permits you to bend his head to right or left when at rest
-or in motion without affecting the position of the forehand--then your
-horse is thoroughly prepared for the present lesson; and the same tact
-and patience which have brought you on thus far will assuredly carry
-you triumphantly through it.
-
-First, however, you should learn to tell with which foot you are
-leading, and you can do so by leaning forward in the saddle while
-cantering, when you will see that the knee of the leading leg is thrown
-up higher than its fellow, and by bending still farther you may see
-this foot planted in advance upon the ground. If your horse has never
-been trained, it is as likely to be one foot as the other. Now, the
-first step to be taken is to put your horse in such a position that it
-will be easy and natural for him to lead off with the desired foot,
-and awkward to lead off with the other. This position is with the head
-turned in the direction you wish to go, and with the croup advanced
-a little in the same direction, so that the body is placed obliquely
-across the line of advance. Thus, if you wish to lead with the right
-foot, you keep his head turned in the direction you wish to go, while
-with the heel you move the croup over two steps to the right; then,
-touching him with the heel and raising the hand, you give the signal to
-canter, and he will probably lead off with the right foot. If not, stop
-him and try again, giving him a sharp cut with your whip just behind
-the right shoulder. To lead with the left the process is reversed, the
-croup being moved two steps to the left before the signal to canter is
-given, a sudden dig with the heel behind the shoulder conveying to
-the horse the hint to hurry forward his left leg. You can now begin
-to canter on the circles you have marked out; you will, however,
-at first come down to a walk before changing from one circle to an
-adjoining one--which change, of course, reverses the curve, and makes
-it necessary to change the leading foot.
-
-This figure eight riding, thus, [infinity sign], is most useful both
-for horse and rider when it is carefully done. Keep the horse "light in
-hand," and above all, _collected_--_viz._, with his haunches well under
-him, and always with his feet exactly in the circle and his neck and
-body bent to the curve. As soon as he will lead off correctly from a
-walk, begin to teach him to do so from the trot; and when this lesson
-has been learned, practise him on the double circles, or figure 8's,
-beginning at a trot, and lifting him into a canter just as you pass from
-one circle to the other. This will accustom him to the idea of a change
-of movement at the time of a change in direction. Having got him to
-canter, continue on the same circle many times around and around, then
-bring him to a trot, and pass to the adjoining circle, lifting him to a
-canter just as you turn into it, as before, but of course leading with
-the opposite foot. Make your circles smaller and smaller, and continue
-till he has had time to appreciate the importance of leading correctly;
-then try to make him change at a canter, choosing for the purpose one
-of your smallest figure 8's, and indicating to him the change of foot
-on the same spot and in the same way as when you began by trotting, and
-you will no doubt be immediately successful.
-
-If the horse in changing the lead of the fore-feet does not make the
-corresponding change with the hind-feet, he is said to be _disunited_.
-This fault must be corrected immediately, as it renders his gait not
-only uncomfortable to the rider, but very insecure.
-
-
-
-
-PART II.
-
-ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE.
-
-
-There is a large class of excellent people who feel a decided
-impatience at the very name of etiquette. "It is all nonsense," they
-say, and they will give you various infallible receipts for getting
-on without such an objectionable article. One admonishes you to be
-"natural," and your manners will leave nothing to be desired. Another
-sagaciously defines politeness to be "kindness kindly expressed," and
-intimates that if your heart is right your deportment cannot fail to
-be so too. All these philosophizings, however, give little comfort to
-the bashful young person just venturing into society, for unfortunately
-few of us are so happily constituted as always to think, much less
-to say and do, exactly the right thing at the right time, and the
-most unobservant presently discovers, very likely at the cost of no
-small mortification, that the usages of society, even when apparently
-arbitrary, cannot be disregarded with impunity. In the etiquette of
-the saddle, however, common-sense takes so decidedly precedence of
-the arbitrary and conventional that no courageous, kind-hearted,
-and sensible young girl, however inexperienced, need be afraid of
-committing any fatal solecism. The reason of this is that the element
-of danger is never entirely absent, and that the importance of assuring
-the safety and comfort of yourself and companions, to say nothing of
-lookers-on and passers-by, or of the noble and valuable animal you
-ride, far transcends that of observing any mere forms and ceremonies.
-
-
-DRESS.
-
-Fashion at present, both in this country and in England, requires
-that the whole riding costume be as simple as possible, and entirely
-without ornament. Formerly much more latitude was allowed, and very
-pretty effects were produced with braid trimming across the breast,
-a little color at the neck, and a slouched hat with long feather or
-floating veil--witness the picture of the Empress Eugenie when Countess
-Montijo, and many a charming family portrait besides--but now fashion
-pronounces all that sort of thing "bad form," and a word to the wise
-is sufficient. The habit itself must be quite dark, or even black,
-perfectly plain in the waist, with black buttons up to the neck, and
-with a scant, short skirt only just long enough to cover the feet. The
-cuffs and collar must be of plain linen, no color or flutter of ribbon
-being anywhere permissible. The handkerchief must not be thrust in
-the breast, but kept in the saddle pocket, and if a veil is worn, it
-must be short and black. The hair should be so securely put up that
-it will not shake down, and that the hair-pins will not work out. In
-the matter of the hat more freedom of choice is allowed, and in the
-country almost anything may be worn, but wherever there is any pretence
-of dressing, the only correct thing is the regulation silk "cylinder,"
-which, by-the-bye, usually looks better rather low in the crown, and
-which is every way a pleasanter and more serviceable hat than ladies
-who have never worn one are apt to imagine. About the cutting of a
-riding-habit, it may be remarked, there is nothing mysterious, although
-one might think so from the way it is often talked about, especially
-in the advertisements of fashionable tailors, and there is no reason
-in the world why any clever young girl should not make one for herself
-if she chooses. The only eccentricity about it, from the dress-making
-point of view, is the shaping out of a place for the right knee, so
-that the skirt may hang straight and not ruck up, and this can easily
-be managed at home by improvising a horse with a couple of chairs and
-a rolled-up rug, putting the saddle on it, and trying the effect in
-place. Be careful to leave plenty of room across the breast. A couple
-of straps should be sewn inside in the proper place, so that the toe
-or heel of each foot may be inserted to prevent the skirt from rising
-and exposing the feet; and these straps should not be strong, but, on
-the contrary, like all other parts of the skirt, and particularly
-the facing, should be made so as certainly to tear loose instantly
-in case of getting caught in a fall. Before leaving the habit, we
-may remark that the wearer should practise gathering it up, holding
-it in one hand, and walking in it at home, and if possible before a
-mirror. No petticoats ought to be worn, but merino drawers, and easy
-trousers of the same stuff as the rest of the habit. Beware of badly
-made seams, which have a vexatious way, as many a masculine wearer can
-testify, of pinching out a bit of skin at some inopportune moment. The
-trousers should be cut away a little over the instep, and fastened down
-under the sole with straps, which may be either sewed on or attached
-by buttons inside the band, in which case india-rubber is the best
-material, being easy alike on buttons, stuff, and fingers. Corsets
-should be worn as usual, but never laced tight, and it would be better
-that they should not have steel clasps or steel springs, which might
-be dangerous in case of a fall. The boots should be easy, broad-soled,
-low-heeled, and rather laced than buttoned, as less likely on the one
-hand to catch in the stirrup, and on the other to bruise the foot by
-chafing against the saddle. The gloves should be strong, but supple
-and easy, as it is important that every finger should have free and
-independent movement. Tight gloves not only benumb the hands in cold
-weather, but always cause an awkward handling of the reins, and may be
-positively dangerous with a fresh horse. As to the relative merits of
-crop and whip, there is room for difference of opinion. By many persons
-the former is looked upon as a senseless affectation of English ways,
-but the fact is that with a horse regularly trained to the saddle it
-is more useful than a whip, as by its aid a lady can "collect" her
-horse--that is, can make him bring his hind-legs under him, in the same
-way that a man does by the pressure of his calves. If, however, the
-horse has never been trained, and is sluggish or wilful, a whip may be
-more useful. Whichever of the two produces the better results will have
-the more "workmanlike" look and be in the "better form."
-
-
-THE MOUNT.
-
-It is undoubtedly much pleasanter and more exhilarating to ride a
-good and handsome horse than a poor and ugly one, a horse adapted
-to one's size and weight than one too large or too small, too heavy
-or too light; but none of these points are matters of etiquette. On
-this whole subject etiquette makes only one demand, but that one is
-inexorable--it is _perfect neatness_. A lady's mount must be immaculate
-from ear to hoof, in coat and mane and entire equipment. It is in a
-great degree their exquisite neatness that gives such an air of style
-not only to English horsewomen, but to English turn-outs of all kinds,
-which, nevertheless, have not usually the "spick and span new" look of
-fashionable American equipages. On coming out, therefore, prepared
-for a ride, take time to look your horse over swiftly, but keenly,
-noting first that his eye and general appearance indicate good health
-and spirits; secondly, that he has been thoroughly groomed, his mane
-freed from dandruff, his hoofs washed, but not blacked; thirdly, that
-the saddle and bridle are perfectly clean and properly put on. Every
-buckle should have been undone and cleansed, the leather suppled,
-and the bright metal polished; the girths, three in number--never
-fewer than two--should be snug, but not tight enough to impede free
-breathing; the bits in their proper place, that is to say, the snaffle
-just high enough up not to wrinkle the corners of the mouth, and the
-curb considerably lower, with its chain, which should pass below the
-snaffle, lying flat and smooth against the skin in the chin groove;
-finally, the throat-latch loose. While it is not always wise to
-reprimand carelessness on the part of your groom on the spot, it is
-well never to let it pass unnoticed, while, on the other hand, it is
-a good plan always to show appreciation of especial attention to your
-wishes by a kind word or a smile.
-
-
-MOUNTING.
-
-It is rather a trying ordeal for an inexperienced rider to mount a
-tall horse from the ground, even when there are no lookers-on, and
-many a one remains in bondage to chairs and horse-blocks all her life
-long rather than undertake it. The feat, however, is really so much
-easier than it looks, and when well performed makes the rider appear
-so agile and graceful, giving such an air of style and _savoir-faire_
-to the departure, that it is well worth every lady's while to acquire
-it. The first requisite is that the horse should stand still, and for
-this purpose the attendant should have given him some preliminary
-exercise, as the fresh air and bright light are so exhilarating to a
-high-strung horse that he cannot at first restrain his impulse to caper
-about. This preparatory airing should be entered upon invariably as
-calmly as possible, and begun at a walk, for a flurry at starting, and
-especially the use of the whip, will often disturb a horse's nerves
-for hours, making him unpleasant if not dangerous to ride. When the
-horse is brought to the door, let the groom stand directly in front of
-him, holding the bridle not by the rein, but with both hands by each
-cheek, just above the bit. If he is a proud and sensitive animal, do
-not rush up to him excitedly with a slamming of doors and gates, nor
-allow any one else to do so, but approach with gentle steadiness. Stand
-a moment and look him over, give your orders quietly, and pat his neck
-for a moment, speaking pleasantly to him the while, so that he may get
-accustomed to your voice.
-
-[Illustration: READY TO MOUNT.]
-
-Now standing with your right side a few inches from the saddle, facing
-the same way as the horse, and with your left shoulder slightly thrown
-back, place the right hand on the second pommel, holding in it the
-whip, and the reins drawn just tight enough to give a feeling of the
-bit. Your attendant will stand facing you, and as close as convenient,
-and will now stoop forward, with his hands clasped and with his right
-forearm firmly supported on his right thigh. Now with your left hand
-lift your riding-skirt in front, and place your left foot in his hands.
-Let go the skirt, rest your left hand on his shoulder, and giving him
-the cue by bending the right knee, spring up erect on the left foot,
-and, seating yourself sideways on the saddle, place the right knee over
-the horn.
-
-[Illustration: "ONE, TWO, THREE."]
-
-If your attendant is unused to rendering such service, you had better
-make your first essays in some secluded place, in which you can
-instruct him where to stand, just how high to lift your foot, and
-caution him to put forth strength enough to support you steadily,
-without lifting too violently. Do not be deterred by awkwardness on
-his part or on your own from learning to mount from the ground, for
-the more awkward, the better practice for you. Your attendant will now
-lift your skirt above the knee, so that it will hang properly without
-dragging, and then disengaging the stirrup from beneath the skirt, will
-place your left foot in it.
-
-[Illustration: PLACING THE FOOT IN THE STIRRUP.]
-
-Too much care cannot be taken with the position in the saddle, which
-should be exactly as shown in the following cut. The left leg should
-invariably hang perpendicularly from the knee, with the heel depressed,
-and with the foot parallel with the horse's side. The length of the
-stirrup-strap should be such that the knee thus is out of contact with
-the hunting-horn, but near enough to be brought firmly up against
-it by raising the heel. The right knee should rest easily but snugly
-over the pommel, so as to grasp it in case the horse springs. Neither
-foot should be allowed to sway about nor to project so as to be seen
-awkwardly poking out the skirt. If your clothing does not feel quite
-comfortable, rise in your stirrup and shake it down, resting your hand,
-if necessary, on your attendant's shoulder, for it will be very awkward
-should it become disarranged on the road. Now put your handkerchief in
-the saddle pocket, take the reins in the left hand, or in both hands,
-as you prefer, and start the horse by a touch with the heel.
-
-[Illustration: POSITION IN SADDLE.]
-
-It is, of course, the correct thing to mount from the ground, if
-possible, but here again common-sense comes so decidedly to the front
-that it is not too much to say that the sole indispensable requirement
-of an enlightened etiquette is _good-nature_. Certain it is that the
-eye masculine will follow with pleasure, and perhaps with some emotion,
-the movements of the young girl who comes out bright and fresh, gives
-her horse a pat or two, with a lump of sugar, as she glances him
-quickly over, looks kindly at her stable-boy, and then skips gayly
-into the saddle from a chair brought out by a maid, while the same
-eye will rest quite unmoved, except by a spirit of criticism, on the
-self-conscious and selfish damsel, though she be put on in the most
-approved manner by the smartest groom who ever wore top-boots. Mount,
-then, from the ground, if you have some one to put you on and some
-one to hold your horse; or, if the horse will stand without holding,
-cautioning your escort--if you are not sure of his expertness in such
-services--to be sure to raise your foot straight up, and to give you
-warning by counting one, two, so that you may be certain to have the
-leg straightened before he begins to lift, as otherwise the result may
-be the reverse of graceful. When in the saddle, rise in your stirrup,
-as already suggested, and smooth down your dress, meantime thanking
-your escort and telling him how well he did it. This smoothing down
-of the skirt it is a good plan to practise frequently, first standing,
-then at a walk, then at a trot, till you can do it deftly, almost
-without thought, for there is no telling at what inopportune moment it
-may become necessary.
-
-To mount from the ground without assistance is a feat which few ladies
-would voluntarily undertake. It may be accomplished in an emergency,
-however, if the horse is quiet and not too tall, by lowering the
-stirrup sufficiently to reach it with the left foot, and springing up
-with the aid of the hands, the left of which should grasp the mane and
-the right the cantle of the saddle.
-
-
-THE START.
-
-Do not put your horse in motion by a cut with the whip, which would
-be trying to his nerves, nor by chirping or clucking, which would be
-equally trying to the nerves of your companions, but by a touch with
-the heel, or a pressure between your heel on the left side and your
-crop on the right. If other ladies are to be mounted, move on so far
-that they will be in no danger, either real or imaginary, from your
-horse's heels, and never at any time put him in such a position that
-he can kick any one, or that you can get kicked yourself by any other
-horse. If you have to turn about on starting, try to do so by making
-your horse step around with his hind-legs (in the technical phrase,
-_pirouette renversee_), so as to avoid turning your back and presenting
-his haunches towards any one with whom you may be talking or from whom
-you are to take leave. To be able to do this easily and gracefully you
-must have him well "collected" and "light in hand."
-
-
-ON WHICH SIDE TO RIDE.
-
-The next question that arises is on which side of her escort a lady
-should ride. This point, so much discussed and disputed in this
-country, is scarcely raised in England, where the universal habit of
-turning to the left makes it, under almost all circumstances, safer
-for her to be on his left, in which position he finds himself always
-interposed between his charge and any passing vehicle, whether it
-come from before or from behind. In this country, however, we have
-adopted--nobody knows why, unless it is because the French do so--the
-rule of keeping to the right, and yet without changing our manner
-of riding and driving, so that the result is often awkward and even
-dangerous. The teamster who used to walk on the left of his horses,
-so as to lead them out of the way when occasion required, still
-walks on the left, which now puts him in the middle of the road; the
-coachman still sits on the right, though the probability of contact has
-changed over to the other side; the lady's seat is still on the left
-side of the horse, which obliges her to choose between the danger of
-being caught by passing wheels or crushed by the horse of her escort.
-As there is no reason in the world, whether in the conformation
-of the female form or of the horse itself, or in the exigencies of
-equestrianism, that makes it inherently more proper to sit on one side
-of the horse rather than on the other, it seems strange that none of
-our independent American ladies should have undertaken to set the
-fashion of sitting on the right side. The Princess of Wales always does
-so, for some special reason. The Empress of Austria, who is well known
-as one of the boldest and most graceful riders as well as one of the
-most beautiful women in Europe, is said to have saddles made in both
-ways, using them alternately, and this plan is adopted by more than one
-of the noble ladies of England who hunt regularly in the season, with
-a view of preventing too constant a strain on the same set of nerves,
-and possibly causing an unequal development of the two sides of the
-person. However, accepting the present feminine seat as a thing not to
-be changed, the advantages in this country of riding on the one hand
-of the escort or on the other are so equally divided that the balance
-may incline to either side, and a lady is always free to do about
-it as she pleases without exciting remark. When riding on the right
-side, the lady is protected from passing vehicles, and the gentleman
-has his right hand free to assist her in any way, even to taking her
-off her horse in case of necessity; but if either horse were to shy
-towards the other, she might get bruised, and she is always liable to
-an occasional contact with her companion's person, which may not be
-pleasant. Children should certainly be kept on the right, and so should
-any inexperienced or very timid person; and at all times a gentleman
-should interpose himself between the lady under his charge and danger
-of any kind--as, for instance, reckless drivers, rude strollers, or a
-drove of cattle. When riding on the left, the lady is undoubtedly in a
-more exposed position, especially if her horse is disposed to dance or
-shy at rattling wagons and the like; but her escort, being able to ride
-closer to her, is enabled more quickly and safely to take the animal by
-the head, if necessary, and under all circumstances he should hold his
-reins and whip in his right hand, and in case of danger keep his horse
-well "collected," so as to be ready to act promptly and without any
-show of excitement.
-
-
-THE SEAT.
-
-_Position._--The lady's position on horseback is so conspicuous that
-the fact ought to stimulate the most indifferent so to place and carry
-herself as to show her figure to the best advantage, and this graceful
-carriage of the person will be found to be the first step towards
-achieving a firm and easy seat. The posture should be erect, the back
-slightly hollowed, the breast thrown forward, the chin drawn in so
-that the neck will be nearly vertical. The lower limbs should rest
-easily but firmly in their respective places, the left leg hanging
-perpendicularly from the knee downward, with heel slightly depressed,
-and foot parallel with the horse's side, the right toe raised a little
-above the horizontal, but not carried far enough forward to poke up
-the riding habit. The seat should be in the middle of the saddle, not
-on the right side of it with the body inclined to the left, which is
-excessively awkward, nor on the left side with an inclination to the
-right, which is equally awkward, and with the additional disadvantage
-of being sure to cause saddle galls. When the body is consciously
-_balanced_ on the horse's back, when the shoulders are equidistant from
-his ears, and when the eyes, looking between said ears (an excellent
-habit), look straight along the road, and not off obliquely to one side
-of it, then the seat, whatever else it may not be, is at least in the
-middle of the saddle.
-
-[Illustration: A SQUARE AND PROPER SEAT.]
-
-_The Hand._--As to the manner of carrying the arms, Colonel Hayes
-remarks that he has seen of late (in England) some ladies sticking out
-their elbows, but that he, for his part, decidedly approves of the
-old rule which forbade that daylight should be seen between a lady's
-arms and body. The sight which annoyed Colonel Hayes is not unknown
-in America, but probably most observers correctly attribute it either
-to ignorance or affectation. Certainly there is no reason for it,
-whether practical or aesthetic, as the raising of the elbows lifts the
-hands into a position in which the reins act less correctly on the
-horse's mouth, while substituting angles for curves in the outline of
-the figure, and quite destroying the air of well-bred repose which
-is one of the great charms of a finished horsewoman. The arms should
-hang naturally by the sides, with the hands, a few inches apart, just
-above the knee, and as low as possible without resting on it, the nails
-turned down, the knuckles at an angle of forty-five degrees with the
-horizon, the wrists bent inward so as to permit of a little play of the
-wrist joint at each tug of the horse on the reins.
-
-_The Poise._--All this is not very difficult so long as the horse keeps
-quiet, or even when he merely walks; but how is this much-admired
-statuesque repose to be preserved at the trot, the canter, the gallop,
-to say nothing of incidental shying and capering? There is only one
-answer to this question, and that is--_practice_. But even practice
-is usually not sufficient without an accompaniment, infrequent and
-not always pleasant, _viz._, frank and unflattering criticism; and
-every one who really wishes to excel, and to merit the praises which
-as woman she is certain to receive, will see to it that this wholesome
-corrective is often at hand. Practice itself, to be profitable, must
-be intelligent, and the cause of any discomfort from the motion of the
-horse should be sought out and removed. It will be found almost always
-to result from involuntary muscular contractions, especially of the
-waist, which should invariably be kept supple, as it is to a slight
-play of loin and thigh that the rider must look to prevent being thrown
-up by each spring of the hind-legs in cantering or galloping.
-
-In rising to the trot, bear outwardly with the left heel, which will
-keep the knee close against the saddle, and prevent the leg from
-swaying about. At the same time be careful not to rise towards the
-left--an awkward but very common habit, which can be detected by the
-plan already suggested of sighting between the horse's ears. Mr. Sidney
-says, "The ideal of a fine horsewoman is to be erect without being
-rigid, square to the front, and until quite at home in the saddle,
-looking religiously between her horse's ears. The shoulders must
-therefore be square, but thrown back a little, so as to expand the
-chest and make a hollow waist, such as is observed in waltzing, but
-always flexible. On the flexibility of the person above the waist,
-and on the firmness below, all the grace of equestrianism, all the
-safety, depend. Nervousness makes both men and women poke their heads
-forward--a stupid trick in a man, unpardonable in a woman. A lady
-should bend like a willow in a storm, always returning to an easy and
-nearly upright position. Nothing but practice--frequent, but not too
-long continued--can establish the all-important balance. Practice,
-and practice only, enables the rider instinctively to bear to the
-proper side, or lean back, as a horse turns, bounds, or leaps." It is
-evidently not simply pounding along the high-road in a straight line
-on a steady nag which is here meant. The following advice, given by a
-lady who is herself an accomplished horsewoman, will furnish a clew to
-the sort of exercise which will be really profitable. She says, "Let
-the pupil practise riding in circles to the right, sitting upright,
-but bending a little to the horse's motion, following his nose with
-her eye; beginning with a walk, proceed to a slow trot, increasing the
-action as she gains firmness in the saddle. When in a smart trot on a
-circle to the right she can, leaning as she should to the right, see
-the feet of the horse on the right side, it may be assumed that she has
-arrived at a firm seat." Another excellent exercise is to lean over,
-now to one side, now to the other, now in front, far enough to observe
-the horse's action, the motion of his feet, and the regularity of his
-step.
-
-
-ON THE ROAD.
-
-If good-nature is the quality most essential to _mounting_ in a
-pleasing manner, that which will cause a lady to shine most _on the
-road_ is kindness. Such a statement will perhaps bring a smile to
-the lips of some dashing girl who thinks that she has other means of
-pleasing, once mounted on a spirited horse, than the practice of any
-of the Christian virtues; but the writer, after many years' experience
-with _amazones_ both young and old, believes it to be literally true.
-A lady who, without weakness, is gentle and thoughtful, will have,
-other things being equal, more sympathetic obedience from her horse,
-a finer hand, a more supple seat, and will bring him back fresher and
-her whole party home in better spirits than one who is not. To begin
-with, there is almost always one of the horses which is not equal to
-the others, but keeps up with difficulty, and as it is precisely that
-horse which should set the pace for the rest, it is well to observe
-the capacity of the different animals, and spare the feelings of any
-one of the party who may be poorly mounted. One might hardly suppose
-it necessary to mention so elementary a rule of politeness as that
-which bids us, when we ride in company, not to keep always in the best
-part of the road; but horses are sometimes selfish as well as human
-beings, and the selfish horse, like the selfish man, unless he is
-prevented, will imperceptibly crowd his patient companion into the
-ruts, when the rider will get the credit or discredit of the action.
-Another too common piece of thoughtlessness is the splashing at full
-speed through mud puddles, the result of which is naturally more
-apparent to one's neighbors than to one's self. If to an equestrian,
-however, being splashed or spattered is annoying, to a pedestrian it
-is nothing less than exasperating, and such a one will look after the
-person guilty of the rudeness with eyes of anything but admiration. One
-cannot be too careful, indeed, when riding near pedestrians, as they
-are decidedly susceptible under such circumstances, and likely to take
-offence; and especially is caution required where women and children
-are concerned, for it is impossible to conjecture what they will do
-if suddenly startled by the rapid approach of horses. The writer saw,
-one afternoon, a nursery-maid crossing Rotten Row with a baby-carriage
-(_Anglice, perambulator_), and two children holding to her skirts.
-When half-way over, a lady and three gentlemen came galloping down,
-followed by two grooms. The children scattered, the riders could not
-pull up, and for an instant it seemed as if the little party were
-doomed to destruction, as the horses appeared to pass right over some
-of them. The English rule, not only for country riding, but for the
-Park or other public places (and an excellent one it is), requires a
-gentleman to pull up and pass a lady, if alone, at a walk, whether she
-be on foot or on horseback, and though more latitude may be allowed a
-lady, yet she should not gallop up suddenly behind another lady who
-is alone, as a nervous horse might be so excited as to cause great
-uneasiness to a timid rider. If you should unfortunately produce such
-a result, by all means pause and express regret, and if your horse is
-quiet, offer to ride for a few minutes beside the sufferer--for so she
-may be called. In passing on the road, the rule is, when meeting, to
-keep to the right, but when overtaking, to pass to the left, and in
-like manner, when overtaken, to keep to the right, so as to leave the
-road free at your left. The only exception to this rule is in the case
-of led-horses, which, as they are often inclined to kick, should be
-avoided by passing next to the one ridden. When approaching a lady in a
-public place a gentleman should always do so on the off or right side.
-
-It is sometimes rather a nice point to decide when assistance ought to
-be offered by a gentleman to a lady with whom he is not acquainted,
-and, if offered, whether it ought to be accepted. The following
-incident, recounted by Sir Joseph Arnould in his "Life of Lord
-Chief-justice Denman," is interesting as showing how such a question
-was discussed in what may certainly be considered as among the very
-best society in England. He says that on occasion of a visit which the
-Lord Chief-justice paid to Walmer Castle, three years before the Duke
-of Wellington's death, in a conversation about riding, the duke said,
-"When I meet a lady on horseback I always stop, and if her horse seems
-troublesome, offer to ride alongside her in the Row till it is quiet.
-The other day I met a lady on a fresh, violent horse, so I took off my
-hat and said, 'Shall I ride with you? My horse is perfectly quiet.'
-She knew me, for she replied, 'No, your Grace; I think I can get on
-very well.' After she was gone, I felt sure it was Jenny Lind." "We all
-agreed," adds Lord Denman, "that the great singer should have accepted
-the services of the great duke, whether she wanted them or not."
-
-It is better not to fight a restive horse unless you have reason to be
-sure of victory, but rather get some one to lead him past the object
-or into the road which he may have taken it into his foolish head to
-object to. If he is in "that state of nervous irritability known as
-_freshness_" do not jerk the bit, but keep a steady, patient bearing
-on it, speaking soothingly to him in a low though steady voice, for
-his acute hearing will enable him to perceive distinctly tones which
-are almost or quite inaudible to your companions. Try not to have an
-anxious expression of countenance, no matter what he may do, but to
-look serene and smiling, as it will not only be more becoming, but will
-undoubtedly react upon your own feelings. If he pulls, it is well to
-take the slack of the right reins in the spare fingers of the left,
-and _vice versa_, as this will give a firmer hold, and enable you to
-shorten the reins without relaxing their tension.
-
-[Illustration: METHOD OF HOLDING THE REINS IN BOTH HANDS.]
-
-Always speak to your horse on approaching and on leaving him, and also
-whenever he has tried especially to please you, as your voice will soon
-come to have a great influence over him. There is a story told of two
-keepers in a zoological garden, one of whom was a favorite with the
-animals, while the other, though a more conscientious man, was disliked
-by them. The authorities, curious to learn the reason, had them
-watched, and it was found that the former always talked to the animals,
-while the latter served them silently. Too much conversation with
-one's horse, however, is apt to get to be a bore to one's companions.
-
-
-THE PACE.
-
-This should vary with the nature of the ground, as it is dangerous to
-the horse, and consequently very bad form, to ride fast on a very rough
-or hard road. If slippery, a smart trot is safer than a slow trot or
-walk; but if walking, by all means let the horse have his head. If a
-steep place is to be descended, attack it at right angles, and not
-obliquely, for, when going down straight, a slip is likely to have no
-worse result than a momentary sitting down on the haunches, whereas,
-if going diagonally, it would probably bring the horse down flat. The
-canter, which is peculiarly the lady's pace, is much harder than the
-trot on the horse's feet and legs, especially on the leading foot and
-leg, and it should be reserved for comparatively soft ground. The lead
-with the right foot is easier for a lady, owing to her one-sided seat,
-than that with the left, and it would be considered awkward or ignorant
-for her not to start off with the right, although during a long ride it
-is well to change, so as to bring the strain upon a new set of muscles.
-
-
-TURNING.
-
-Of course in turning you must always lead towards the turn, that is,
-with the right foot in turning to the right, and with the left in
-turning to the left. For instance, if you have to round a corner to
-the right, and are leading with the right foot, as will probably be
-the case, you have nothing to do but to go on around, being careful to
-choose good footing for your horse, and avoiding particularly loose
-stones. If, however, you are leading with the left, you must change,
-and you can best do so in the following manner. As you approach the
-critical spot, _collect_ your horse with the curb, and bring him to
-a trot; then, just as you reach the corner, make him swerve slightly
-to the left and instantly give the signal to canter, at the same time
-turning him sharply to the right, pressing your heel against his side
-back of the girth, and lifting the right snaffle-rein. It is well to
-draw back the right shoulder also, so as to throw your weight on his
-left side, and leave his right leg free to make the long stride. As
-this is by no means an easy operation for an unskilled rider, except
-on a perfectly trained horse, I will give the directions also in
-detail for the reverse process of wheeling to the left. If your horse
-should be leading with the left foot, you have, of course, no change
-to make. If, however, you are, as usual, leading with the right,
-you must "change the leg" to the left. As you draw near the corner,
-moderate your speed and collect your horse with the curb, bringing him
-to a trot. Then, just at the moment of turning, sway his shoulders a
-very little to the right, give the signal to canter by raising your
-hand, and wheel sharply to the left, at the same time pressing your
-crop against his right side back of the girth, and raising the left
-snaffle-rein. While doing so, draw back your left shoulder so as to
-throw your weight on the right side. If he does not take the hint at
-once, do not be discouraged, but practise him in some quiet place,
-choosing, if possible, a corner where the turn is uphill; and when he
-does well, pat him and make much of him, for you will find that no
-one of your admirers is more sensitive to your praises than he. This
-matter of turning is well worth all the trouble it may cost you, as it
-will give you a lively pleasure to find your horse's powerful limbs
-moving sympathetically to the gentle impulses of a woman's hand, and,
-besides, it lends an air of style and _savoir-faire_ which will be
-fully appreciated by every looker-on who knows anything whatever about
-riding. Be particular to lean over towards the centre of the curve you
-are describing at an angle proportionate to the speed, just as the
-horse does himself, that is, leaning to the right side as he wheels
-to the right, and to the left when he wheels to the left. It is well
-not to let him cut off his corners, but to preserve the same distance
-from the centre of the road, just as if you were riding in company,
-and when this last is the case be careful to keep exactly abreast both
-on the straight road and on the turns, for there is nothing that looks
-more countrified than to see riders straggling along irregularly like a
-party of mechanics out for a stroll on a Sunday afternoon.
-
-It is well never to canter a carriage-horse unless you know him well,
-and are sure he will not thus be rendered unsteady in harness, and in
-like manner you should be considerate of your escort or companions, and
-not urge their horses beyond their proper gait. A good way to do, if
-you are much the best mounted of the party, is now and then, when the
-road is suitable, to gallop on and return again. It looks well to see
-a lady cantering beside a gentleman who is trotting; but the reverse
-never seems quite good form, and especially when it is evident that the
-gentleman's horse is galloping because he has been pushed off his legs.
-
-A borrowed horse is an article which is looked upon with very different
-eyes by the elderly people who generally are the lenders, and the
-youthful riders that are usually the borrowers, and many a man, and
-perhaps many a woman too, remembers with shame and regret how little
-were appreciated or deserved the favors of this sort received in
-youthful days. A borrowed horse should be scrupulously ridden exactly
-as the owner wishes, and moreover the owner's desires ought to be
-respectfully ascertained in advance.
-
-For cross-country riding the stirrups should be taken up at least one
-hole, and the same is advisable in mounting a strange horse. Another
-safe precaution, in the latter case, is a running martingale, which
-will prevent him from throwing up his head, as some horses have the
-habit of doing, to the great annoyance of the rider.
-
-There are two or three more practical suggestions which may not be out
-of place here. The first and most important is that it is exceedingly
-dangerous to let a horse stand in a draught of air, or in a cool place,
-or eat or drink, when heated. In ten minutes he may be so crippled
-that he will never take a free step again. Ferry-boats are notoriously
-bad places, and a horse should never be taken on to them till quite
-cool. It is not well to let your horse crop the leaves or grass, as
-kind-hearted riders permit him to do sometimes, for it soils his lips
-and bits, giving him a slovenly air, and you run the risk besides of
-his wiping them on your habit before you part from him. Avoid letting
-your horse drink unless he really would be better for the refreshment,
-as he can hardly do so without wetting the curb-reins, making them
-stiff and dirty-looking.
-
-
-THE GROOM.
-
-The costume of the groom is too well known to require remark further
-than that it should be scrupulously neat. In the country, top-boots,
-etc., are by no means _de rigueur_, and under many circumstances would
-savor more of pretence than of real gentility. The groom ought to be
-mounted on a strong and able horse, which, if unused to the saddle, he
-should train at least so far that he can with one hand, by the aid of
-his legs, force it to take and keep any position. When accompanying
-inexperienced riders his horse should be able to overtake theirs
-easily. The distance at which he should ride behind his mistress
-varies with circumstances--in a crowded street his place being close
-behind her, while in the Park or in the country he naturally falls
-farther back, though never beyond easy call. If he is mounted on a good
-saddle-horse, he should keep in his place, that is, always at the same
-distance, galloping if necessary; but if riding a carriage-horse, as
-is often convenient, he should not, unless absolutely necessary, force
-the animal beyond the fastest trot at which it looks well in harness.
-He should never canter any horse unless instructed expressly to do
-so, but should trot in a business-like way, rising in his stirrups,
-or, if necessary, should gallop, sitting straight, with hands low and
-feet thrust home in the stirrups. In all cases he should look straight
-forward, without appearing to notice what goes on around him. Nothing
-looks in worse form than a groom sitting lazily back on a cantering
-horse, and casting glances at the admiring nursery-maids along the way.
-When summoned to his mistress, he should touch his hat to acknowledge
-receipt of the command, and should ride quickly up on the off side,
-where he should listen in a respectful attitude with eyes cast down,
-then, touching his hat again, depart to carry out her orders.
-
-
-
-
-PART III.
-
-LEAPING.
-
-
-One pleasant winter afternoon a fashionably dressed young man, crop in
-hand, spur on heel, and mounted on a tall horse, was seen to emerge
-briskly from a little grove in a gentleman's place, and come to a
-sudden halt in the level field across which he had intended to gallop.
-The cause was a new ditch, deep though narrow, stretching across from
-fence to fence before him. He looked at the obstacle a moment, then
-up and down the field, and remarked to a gardener, an old Scotchman,
-who stood looking on, spade in hand, "Well, I suppose I must go back."
-"I suppose so," said the old fellow, dryly, looking up out of the
-corner of his eye with an almost imperceptible smile. The young man
-reddened, hesitated, and then turned away, saying, as if the other's
-thoughts had been spoken out, "To tell the truth, I don't know whether
-my horse would if he could, nor whether he could if he would." "An'
-the same o' yourself," muttered the old man in his grizzled beard.
-The sarcasm was not to be wondered at, as the speaker remembered what
-he had many a time seen, and very likely himself done in his younger
-days in some hunting field of the old country, for the ditch before
-him could have been cleared by an active boy, on his own legs, with
-a good run. Moreover, it is not improbable that the reader is ready
-to agree with the old satirist in thinking the young man a "muff."
-Nevertheless, both horse and rider might easily have come to grief, for
-the steep banks were crumbly, and while the rider's seat was not of
-the firmest, his mount was straight in the shoulder and a little stiff
-in the pastern. However, they were both as well fitted to overcome
-such a difficulty as nine-tenths of American horses and riders, and a
-very little previous practice would have enabled them to spring over
-without bestowing a second thought upon it. The total indifference on
-this subject of leaping among our people is really quite remarkable,
-for one can hardly take a ride anywhere in the country without there
-arising some occasions when even a little knowledge of the art would
-have added to one's pleasure. How often, for instance, an easy fence
-separates the dusty road, too hard as well as too hot for fast riding,
-from some cool wood with its shaded turf, where a gallop would be
-delightful and would do the horse good instead of harm. The reason of
-this indifference is not only the fear of getting shaken off, but a
-doubt as to the horse's ability to leap, and a dread of doing him some
-harm by such an unusual exertion. All these apprehensions are very
-likely well-founded, for if you have never done any leaping your first
-essay will, in all probability, give you a severe shock. Then if your
-horse is green at this sort of work, and the fence is at all difficult,
-he will not improbably refuse altogether, or jump so unwillingly and
-clumsily as to risk your bones as well as his own; and if he does not
-really fall, he may cause such a strain upon unaccustomed muscles as to
-set up a "splint" or "spavin," producing at least temporary lameness.
-Nevertheless, all these excellent reasons for not trying to leap can
-gradually, but rapidly and with perfect safety, be removed by practice,
-and practice of a kind very pleasant and interesting, while at the
-same time improving to your seat, giving it a firmness under all
-circumstances which no amount of riding on the highway could ever do.
-
-[Illustration: APPROACHING A FENCE.]
-
-Some horses are exceedingly fond of leaping, but the majority are
-indifferent, though on the whole rather averse to it, while a few
-positively will not try at all. The first thing to be done is to get
-your horse to take low and easy leaps without repugnance. For this
-purpose lay the bar you intend to use on the ground, and lead him over
-it without looking back at him or giving him any reason to suppose
-that you have any particular object in so doing. Should he object to
-stepping over it, be patient though firm, and when he has finally
-done so, pat and praise him; but if he has been bred in this country,
-and is used to bar places, he will probably give no trouble at this
-stage of his education. Now mount him and repeat the operation; then,
-having the bar raised a few inches, do so again, and continue doing
-so, always at a walk, until it is so high that he can no longer step
-over it. American horses are famous for their excellent tempers;
-nevertheless, at this point, unless you manage with care and with a
-judicious reference to equine peculiarities of mind and temper, you may
-meet with a refusal to proceed. In this event you must not use force
-or severity, or you may disgust the horse, perhaps forever, with the
-very exercise you wish him to learn to enjoy, but must content yourself
-with preventing him from sheering off and keeping him facing his task
-till, sooner or later, he will go over. Now praise him and make much
-of him, and ask no more jumping till the next lesson. It is not a good
-plan to put the bar up in an open place, for the horse will think it
-nonsense, and unless he is unusually docile will resent what will seem
-to him to be an imposition in forcing him to jump over it when he
-could easily go around it. A bar place or gate-way is much better, as
-it cannot be "flanked," and he will not wonder at being asked to go
-through it, but he should never be ridden backward and forward over
-the bar, nor allowed to see it raised, but should be brought around to
-it by a circuit which, if possible, should be large enough to make
-him forget the leaping, or think of it only as an accidental episode
-in the ride. The ground also should be no harder than good firm turf.
-Let him jump towards his stable or towards home by preference, and it
-will be well to let your assistant hold some little article of food
-which he is especially fond of in view just beyond the bar, so that
-his attention may be distracted from the effort, while an agreeable
-association is given him with it, and he is prevented from thinking
-that the obstacle is one of your making. Bear in mind that your object
-at present is threefold: to induce him to take a liking for the new
-exercise; to give him ease and confidence in the performance of it; and
-to train and strengthen by use the muscles brought into play, so that
-none of the unpleasant results mentioned above may follow. Therefore do
-not for a considerable time set the bar more than two feet high, but
-practise him at it several times a day; first, as already said, at a
-walk, then at a slow trot, and then at a canter, making him lead first
-with one foot, then with the other, until he not only springs over
-without touching and without apparently thinking anything about it,
-but shows by his lengthening or shortening his stride on approaching,
-so as to "take off" at the right distance, that his eye is becoming
-educated; and, finally, until a careful daily inspection of his feet
-and legs has proved that no soreness or tenderness anywhere is caused
-by this exercise. If he does not jump clean, but knocks the bar with
-his feet, it may be because he underestimates the height, as not only
-horses but men too are apt to do in the case of open fences made with
-posts and rails; therefore have a broad piece of board, two feet long,
-stood up against the bar like a post, and make him leap over it. If
-he still strikes, it will be well to try the plan which M. Baucher
-so enthusiastically recommends for all horses, and which consists in
-raising the bar a little just as the horse is in the act of springing.
-
-[Illustration: A WATER JUMP.]
-
-It will be interesting to hear exactly what so great an authority has
-to say on this subject. After remarking that the bar should not be
-covered with anything to diminish its hardness, he proceeds: "I let
-two men hold the bare bar at six inches above the ground. The rider
-advances towards it at a walk, and at the moment when the horse, aided
-by the rider, takes the leap, the two men _raise the bar six inches_."
-The horse naturally strikes his feet against it. "I make him begin
-again, until he clears the bar without touching, notwithstanding the
-repeated raising of it at each leap. Then I have the bar held at a
-foot above the ground, and, as before, it will be raised six inches
-at the moment of the leap. When the horse is accustomed to clear
-this new elevation, I have the bar gradually held six inches higher,
-still continuing to raise it six inches at each leap, and I thus
-succeed, after a few lessons given with the regular progression above
-described, in making all horses jump obstacles of a height that they
-would otherwise never have been able to clear. This simple proceeding,
-well applied, will be useful even to exceptional horses, such as
-steeple-chasers, by teaching them to come more carefully to the point
-of 'taking off,' and will render falls less frequent." The idea of M.
-Baucher is to get the horse in the habit of jumping a little higher
-than he thinks necessary, so as to be on the safe side, and a very good
-idea it is. It is a practice among experienced riders to hounds in
-England, instead of leaping a post-and-rail fence midway between the
-posts, to leap as close to a post as possible, or directly over it when
-it is not much higher than the rail.
-
-To return to our equine scholar, having practised him for a month or so
-at an elevation of two feet, his muscles will have adapted themselves
-to the new strain put upon them, and it will be safe to begin to raise
-the bar higher, and gradually to go up nearly to the limit of his
-ability. It is well, however, never to ask too much, as even a willing
-leaper will be sometimes so disgusted at what he thinks tyrannical
-exactions as to refuse obstinately ever to try again. The horse should
-never be allowed to rush at the bar, but should always, if approaching
-at a gallop, be collected, as much as a hundred feet away, so as to
-be under perfect control. The higher the leap, the slower the pace at
-which it should be taken, for the very momentum acquired by a rush,
-which would be useful in a water leap, would carry the animal against
-the bar instead of over it. The reins should be held in both hands,
-and after the horse has been collected with the curb, as may very
-likely be necessary, the curb should be relaxed, so that on approaching
-the leap he may feel only the gentle pressure of the snaffle, which
-will not make him fear to thrust forward his head, a fear which would
-possibly result in bringing him down on all fours at once, or even with
-the hind-feet first. As he rises to his leap, keep a steady but very
-gentle tension on the reins, being ready to support him firmly as his
-fore-feet touch the earth.
-
-It is now time to experiment with low stone walls and with brooks,
-being always on your guard against those concealed man-traps in the
-shape of loose stones, which form one of the chief dangers of leaping
-in this country.
-
-[Illustration: RISING TO THE LEAP.]
-
-All this while we have been assuming the rider to be an accomplished
-horsewoman, and quite _au fait_ at her fences. If, however, the
-business is entirely new to her, let her not be at all disheartened,
-for her own education can be carried on simultaneously with that of
-the horse, and without the least detriment to it. In this case, keep
-to the standing leap--that is, the leap taken from a walk--although
-it is really the most difficult to sit, until you can support the
-unusual motion without being in the least loosened in the saddle, and
-do not try the higher ones till you are perfect in the lower. The hands
-should be held as low as possible above the right knee, and pretty
-close to the body, so that they may have room to yield, and that the
-sudden thrusting out of the horse's head may not jerk you forward in
-the saddle, in which case the powerful impulsion of the hind-legs
-might pitch you out altogether. The advice is often given in books
-to lean forward and then backward in the leap, but the fact is that
-beginners, if they lean forward intentionally, seldom get back in time
-to avoid the shock above alluded to, and teachers, therefore, as well
-as friendly _coaches_, often call out "lean back" as a lady nears the
-bar, which results in giving the learner an awkward though perhaps not
-unsafe manner. The fact is that there is no necessity to try to lean
-forward, as the rising of the horse will bring you involuntarily into
-a position perpendicular to the ground, while the play of thigh and
-waist to prevent being tossed up is of the same kind as that in the
-gallop, only proportionately increased, and it will become instinctive
-if leaping is begun moderately and carried on progressively as already
-recommended. In coming down you can hardly lean too far back. The left
-foot should not be thrust forward, but kept straight, or drawn a very
-little back and held close against the horse's side; the stirrup, into
-which the foot is pushed to the instep, being one or two holes shorter
-than for ordinary riding. On approaching the fence, be particular
-to do nothing to distract the animal's attention, as, for instance,
-by ejaculations or nervous movements of the reins and person; and
-after the leap do not fail to reward him by praises and caresses, for
-it cannot be too deeply impressed on the mind that he is exceedingly
-sensitive to them, and will consider them an ample reward for his
-exertion.
-
-[Illustration: COMING DOWN.]
-
-The object of these instructions being to enable a lady to master the
-art of leaping without a regular instructor, it will not be amiss
-to sum up the advice already given at length, in the words of two
-competent authorities, "Vieille Moustache" and Mr. Sidney. The former
-says:
-
-"She should take a firm hold of the upper crutch of the saddle with
-the right knee, sit well into the saddle--not back of it, because the
-farther back the greater the concussion when the horse alights--put her
-left foot well home in the stirrup, and press her left thigh firmly
-against the third crutch, while keeping the left knee flexible; lean
-slightly forward, avoid stiffening her waist, in order to throw the
-upper part of her figure backward at the right moment to preserve her
-balance. The hands must not move except with the body, and above all
-no attempt to enliven the horse by jagging his mouth as he is about to
-rise--a pernicious habit, practised by riders of both sexes who ought
-to know better. Reins too short, head too forward, and pace too violent
-are the ordinary faults of beginners. Women have on their saddles a
-firmer seat for leaping than men."
-
-Mr. Sidney remarks: "A sheep hurdle is quite high enough and the trunk
-of a tree is quite wide enough for the first steps in leaping. Balance,
-gripe of the pommels, and support of the stirrup must be combined;
-the seat as near the centre of the horse's back as the pommels will
-permit; the figure erect, not rigid, with the shoulders back, ready
-to bend gently backward as the horse rises in the air--not leaning
-forward, twisted over on the near side, like a popular spirited and
-absurd picture ("First at the Fence"), which really shows 'how not to
-do it;' the snaffle-reins held in both hands, at a length that will
-enable the horse fully to extend himself, and the rider to bear on his
-mouth as she bends back over his croup when he is landing. All this
-time her eyes should be looking between the horse's ears, so as to keep
-perfectly square in the saddle."
-
-If the reader carries out the instruction already given with care, and
-exercises good sense and judgment, it is very unlikely that she will
-have a fall. Should this happen, however, there are two things to be
-remembered, first to get instantly away from the horse by scrambling
-or rolling, and secondly to keep hold of the reins. In any event, the
-timid may be reassured by reflecting that a fall is usually without any
-serious result, it being by no means as dangerous to come down with the
-horse as to be thrown from him.
-
-
-
-
-PART IV.
-
-BUYING A SADDLE-HORSE.
-
-
-The opening of the horse-market is not announced to ladies by cards
-of invitation, though such an innovation on the old-fashioned
-methods might prove a great success in the hands of a skilful
-dealer. Nevertheless, as soon as spring opens, all over the United
-States, ladies are "shopping" for horses, but by no means in their
-usual jaunty and self-confident way, for their eyes, which do them
-such good service at the silk or lace counter, take on a timid and
-hesitating expression in the presence of this unwonted problem. The
-acquisition of a saddle-horse by a young girl is usually a long
-and complicated operation, in the course of which her hopes are
-alternately raised and depressed day by day, to be at last very likely
-disappointed altogether. It often begins at breakfast-time, somewhat
-in the following fashion: "Dear papa, don't you think I might have a
-saddle-horse this season? Eleanor B----'s uncle has given her a beauty,
-and we could ride together; and you know that is just the sort of
-exercise the doctor said would be good for me." The father hesitates,
-and few fathers there are who do not in their hearts long to grant the
-request; but he is a very busy man, and does not feel as if he could
-take any more cares upon his shoulders; and very likely he knows little
-about horses, and really has not the slightest idea how to set about
-such a purchase; and his mind misgives him as he remembers what he has
-heard of the tricks of dealers. So he says, "Oh, my dear, I don't see
-how we can manage it. We should be cheated, to begin with, and pay
-twice as much as he is worth, and he would run away and throw you off;
-and then he would be always sick, and finally fall lame, and would have
-to be given away before the season is over." This is the critical point
-of this part of the little family transaction, and if the daughter has
-nothing more convincing to offer in reply than some vague statement
-that she is sure she sees plenty of good horses in the street, and that
-she does not see why her horse should be sick any more than any one
-else's, and that there must be plenty of good men to take care of him
-to be had at low wages, then probably her case is lost. But suppose
-that she replies: "Oh yes, papa, I _know_ a horse that will do _nicely_
-and can't be sickly for he has worked all summer and not lost _a day_
-and he is eight years old and so has eaten all his wild oats by this
-time and he isn't a very pretty color but then we can buy him cheaper
-for that reason and I don't care so much for color as I do for _shape_
-and he is _very_ well formed indeed his legs and feet are excellent and
-he has a broad shoulder and a pretty neck and head and we gave him
-a long drive the other day and he never missed _a step_ and he isn't
-afraid of anything and I drove him fast up a steep hill and jumped out
-at the top to give him a bunch of clover and took the opportunity to
-listen to his breathing and to feel his pulse and there is nothing the
-matter with _his_ heart or wind I assure you and I will promise to go
-to the stable once a day to see him." Then the chances are that, after
-laughing at the long sentence without a stop, and telling her she is a
-runaway filly herself, papa will say, "Well, suppose we take a look at
-this wonderful animal; we are not obliged to buy him, you know, unless
-we please, and I don't say what I may decide finally," and her case is
-won. To be able, however, to make the reply above supposed, simple as
-it sounds, indicates a very unusual amount of observation for a young
-girl.
-
-There are many ladies who can at a glance tell real point lace from
-artificial, be the imitation never so good; but there are comparatively
-few who know the points of a horse, or can detect any but the most
-glaring defects or blemishes. The reason is simply want of practice,
-for the difference between the well-made and the ill-made horse, or
-between the sound animal and the spavined or foundered one, is far
-greater than that between the two pieces of lace above mentioned, which
-to most masculine eyes would appear exactly alike. With her superior
-delicacy of observation and quickness of perception, a woman ought to
-be, other things supposed equal, a better judge of horses than a man,
-and there must surely be a great many who, if they really believed
-this, would think it worth their while to master the small vocabulary
-of technical terms in which the information they require is always
-couched, and such would speedily find their reward in the opening
-of a new and interesting field of research. To begin with, how few
-ladies so much as know the names of the different parts of the animal!
-Head, legs, and body, eyes, ears, and tail, are about all the words
-in the feminine dictionary of horse lore, and whether the pasterns
-are not a disease of colts, the coronet a part of a bridle, and the
-frog a swelling in the throat, my lady knoweth not. A half-hour,
-however, given to the illustration on the following page, will remove
-once for all this preliminary difficulty, and will open the way to a
-consideration of the proper form and motion of the parts of which the
-names are here given:
-
-
-PARTS AND "POINTS" OF THE HORSE, ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED.
-
-_Arm, or True Arm_ (8, 8).--Extends from the point of the shoulder (29)
-to the elbow (10). It should be long.
-
-_Back._--This is one of the four parts which, according to Arab saying,
-should be short.
-
-_Back Sinew._--The powerful muscle back of the cannon-bone. It should
-be free from contact with the bone.
-
-_Barrel, or Chest._--Should be roomy, as not only the lungs, but all
-the organs of digestion, are contained in it.
-
-_Belly._--This is one of the four parts which the Arab proverb says
-must be long.
-
-_Breast, or Bosom._--Should be deep, but not too broad, or speed will
-be diminished.
-
-_Cannon-bone_ (11).--The strong oval bone stretching between the
-knee and fetlock-joint in the fore-leg, and between the hock and
-fetlock-joint in the hind-leg.
-
-_Chin Groove._--The place just above the swell of the lower lip, in
-which the curb-chain should lie.
-
-_Coronet_ (14).--A cartilaginous band encircling the top of the hoof.
-
-_Crest._--The upper part of the back of the neck.
-
-_Croup_ (18).--Strictly speaking, the upper part of hind-quarters
-between hip and tail, but in a general way taken for that part of the
-body back of the saddle.
-
-_Curb-place_ (29).--A part of the hind-leg, six or eight inches below
-the point of the hock, where "curbs," or enlargement of the back sinew
-resulting from strain, are to be looked for.
-
-_Ear._--Neither too long nor very short.
-
-_Elbow_ (10).--Should not be nearly under the point of the shoulder,
-but considerably back of it, and should neither be turned out nor
-pressed against the ribs.
-
-_Eye._--Should be clear and full, and of a gentle expression.
-
-_Fetlock._--The tuft of hair at the back of the pastern-joint. When
-thick and coarse it indicates common blood.
-
-_Fetlock-joint_ (12).--Is between the shank and the pastern, and is the
-same as pastern-joint.
-
-_Flank_ (22).
-
-_Forearm_ (9).--Should be long and muscular.
-
-_Forehead._--The broader, the more sense and courage. The average of
-six thorough-bred English horses was nine and a half inches.
-
-_Frog._--The triangular piece in centre of bottom of hoof.
-
-_Gaskin, or Lower Thigh_ (23).--Should be strong and long, reaching
-well down. Measured from the stifle-joint to the point of hock should
-be twenty-eight inches in a well-bred horse of fifteen hands and
-three-quarters.
-
-_Girth_ (30, 30).--Gives approximately the capacity of the lungs.
-
-_Heel._--Should not to be too high or contracted, that is, drawn
-together.
-
-_Hip._--Should be broad, with powerful muscles.
-
-_Hip-joint_ (20).--Is not always easily discovered by an amateur.
-
-_Hock_ (25).--One of the most important of the points of the horse;
-should be large, clean--that is, without any rough protuberances on the
-bone--flat, and "with a good clean point standing clear of the rest of
-the joint."
-
-_Hoof._--Deep, like a cup; not flat, like a saucer.
-
-_Jaw._--Should be wide up toward the socket, to give room for windpipe,
-and permit of a graceful carriage of head.
-
-_Knee._--Can hardly be too large. Looked at from in front, should
-appear much wider than the leg, and should stretch out backward into a
-sharp edge, called the pisiform-bone.
-
-_Loins_ (17).--Broad, muscular, and arched slightly upward.
-
-_Lower Thigh._--See "Gaskin" (23).
-
-_Mane._--When thick and coarse, indicates inferior blood.
-
-_Muzzle_ (4).--Should be small, but with large nostril. A coarse muzzle
-indicates low breeding.
-
-_Nostril._--Open and prominent.
-
-_Pastern_ (13).--The short oblique bone between the fetlock and hoof.
-Should not be straighter than sixty, nor lower than forty-five degrees
-to the ground.
-
-_Pastern-joint_ (12).--Same as fetlock-joint.
-
-_Pisiform-bone_ (16).--At the back of the knee.
-
-_Point of the Hock_ (26).
-
-_Point of the Shoulder_ (29).--The lower end of the shoulder-blade, to
-which is jointed the true arm.
-
-_Poll._--The top of the head.
-
-_Quarters_ (21).--Should be muscular.
-
-_Ribs._--Should be well arched, and come up close to the hip.
-
-_Shoulder_ (7, 7).--Should be long and oblique.
-
-_Spavin Place_ (27).--Should be free from bony enlargement.
-
-_Stifle-joint_ (24).--Corresponds to the human knee.
-
-_Tail._--Not set on too high, but yet carried gracefully.
-
-_Thigh, or True Thigh._--Reaches from hip-joint to stifle. Should be
-long to give speed.
-
-_Thrapple, or Throttle_ (5).--Upper part of throat.
-
-_True Arm_ (8, 8).--See "Arm." To a careless observer it appears to
-form part of the shoulder.
-
-_Withers_ (6).--It is the height of the withers which gives the height
-of the horse.
-
-[Illustration: PARTS AND "POINTS."]
-
-To be a "good judge of a horse" is indeed an accomplishment as rare as
-it is desirable; but while it cannot be taught by word of mouth or pen,
-yet a few principles may be acquired which will be of great assistance
-in cultivating the eye. Even if the judgment be never so thoroughly
-formed as to be a safe guide unaided in purchasing, yet a great deal
-of pleasure may be derived from noting the comparative excellences
-of the really fine horses constantly to be seen in this country; and
-there is no reason in the world why a lady's opinion on this subject
-should continue to weigh as little as it has generally done hitherto. A
-graceful neck and an air of spirit usually win the feminine suffrages,
-yet often co-exist with a long back, spindle-shanks, and a chest both
-shallow and narrow. Nevertheless, a good neck is an excellent thing,
-and so is a small head, especially if it have a wide forehead; but next
-look to see if there is also (to use a horsey expression), "a short
-back and a long belly," a deep chest, a sloping shoulder, and legs
-broad and long above the knee and hock, but broad and short below.
-
-The Arabs have a proverb that "there should be four points of a
-horse long, four short, and four broad." The long are the neck, the
-forearm, the thigh, and the belly; the short are the back, the pastern,
-the tail, and the ear; the broad are the forehead, the chest, the
-croup, and the limbs. The head should be small and bony; that of an
-English thorough-bred of fifteen and three-quarter hands will measure
-twenty-two to twenty-four inches in length, with the forehead eight to
-ten inches broad, the face dishing below the eyes. The withers should
-be high, the shoulder as broad as possible--not fleshy, but bony--and
-lying at an angle of about forty-five degrees. The chest should be
-broad and deep, to give room for lungs and heart. The knees should be
-broad, the hoofs large, and not flat, but deep.
-
-The reasons for some of the above recommendations may be made clearer
-by a rough comparison between the frame of the horse and that of
-man. For instance, the shoulder of the former, from the withers to
-its forward point at the joint, is equivalent to the shoulder-blade
-and collar-bone of the latter, and a broad shoulder is as sure an
-indication of strength in the one as in the other. If the horse is
-"short above and long below," it gives him a carriage similar to that
-of a man with a full, broad chest, who holds his head high and his
-shoulders back.
-
-The knee of the horse corresponds to the human wrist, and his _hock_,
-or "back knee," as the children call it, to our heel. The shank of the
-fore-leg, then, or the part between the knee and fetlock, corresponds
-to the hand, and the hoof and pastern to the fingers; while the shank
-of the hind-leg, or the part between hock and fetlock, corresponds
-to our foot, the hoof and pastern being the toes. The horse may thus
-be said to walk upon the tips of his fingers and toes, and it will
-readily be seen why the leg weakens in proportion as the pastern and
-shank lengthen. The arm proper of the horse is very short and almost
-concealed from view, reaching from the forward point of the shoulder to
-the elbow, which is close against the side.
-
-The more oblique the shoulder, the greater the power of this arm to
-throw the forearm forward, so as to support the body in the gallop,
-and in coming down from a leap. A straight shoulder is adapted for
-pulling loads, but is not fit for the saddle, except upon level roads,
-becoming positively dangerous in broken ground. The two upper members
-of the hind-leg, reaching from the hip to the hock, are together
-commonly called the thigh, as the thigh proper, which stretches from
-the hip to the stifle-joint, is very short and almost concealed
-from observation. The stifle-joint, which corresponds to our knee,
-lies close against the flank. Read the description, to some extent
-traditional, of the wonderful mare Swallow, in Kingsley's "Hereward
-the Wake." She was evidently not from Arab stock, with her big ugly
-head; but horses--like men and women--of extraordinary strength, and
-beauty too, are sometimes happened upon in the most unlikely places.
-Indeed, in many an ungraceful form there is stored up an amount of
-vital energy which explains the saying that one can find "good horses
-of all shapes." Nevertheless, the presumption is always in favor of the
-well-shaped animal, and the acknowledged type of equine beauty is the
-English thorough-bred. This is of pure Arab blood, but so improved by
-many generations of careful breeding and training that it now excels
-not only all other European and Oriental races but the modern Arab
-himself, that is considered to be, weight for weight, twenty-five per
-cent. stronger than other breeds. One invariable mark of Arab blood,
-by-the-bye, is a high and graceful carriage of the tail. The eye should
-be kind and quiet, that of an Arab very gentle, even sleepy, when at
-rest, but full of fire and animation when in motion.
-
-"The relative proportions of and exact shape desirable in each of the
-points described varies considerably in the several breeds. Thus, when
-speed and activity are essential, an oblique shoulder-blade is a _sine
-qua non_, while for heavy harness it can hardly be too upright. _There
-are some elements, however, which are wanted in any horse, such as big
-hocks and knees, flat legs with large sinews, open jaws_ (that is, with
-the lower jaw-bones wide apart), _and full nostrils_."
-
-It is well, after taking a general look at a horse and getting an
-impression of him as a whole, to divide him up mentally into sections,
-and examine these in detail one after the other. Taking first the head,
-which should be bony, not fleshy, remember that the more brain the more
-"horse sense." Next look at the neck, which should be neither too thick
-nor too long, but connecting head and shoulders by a graceful sweep.
-Then the forequarters, observing that the shoulder-blade and true arm
-are both long, well supplied though not loaded with muscle, and join
-each other at the point of the shoulder at a rather sharp angle. Then
-the "middle-piece," which should be rounded in the barrel, arched
-slightly in the loin, "short above and long below," and well ribbed
-up towards the hip. Next the hind-quarters, then the legs, knees,
-hocks, and feet, observing that the knees are firm, the cannon-bones
-and pastern are flat and strong, and that the back sinew is strong and
-stands free from the bone.
-
-Now have the horse set in motion, and observe him first from one
-side, then from the other, and then from behind, noting the carriage
-and movements of the different parts in the order above given. This
-examination is practically the more important of the two.
-
-Let no one suppose that mere verbal instruction, however judicious and
-elaborate, will, without practice, make a good judge of horse-flesh any
-more than it will of Brussels point-lace. All it is here intended to do
-is to aid in training the eye, which must be constantly exercised upon
-whatever specimens may come before it, comparing them mentally with
-one another, and noting their defects and qualities whether of form or
-of motion. It will soon be found that such observations, particularly
-when relating to the motions of the horse, have a fascination
-peculiarly their own, and open a new and wide field of amusement.
-
-In examining a horse a lady cannot of course usually make the thorough
-inspection personally which would be necessary to warrant his limbs
-and wind perfectly sound, but she can, by taking a little time to it,
-form an opinion which will be very nearly correct. She should first
-master the vocabulary at the end of this chapter, which will give her
-an idea what defects to be on the lookout for, and just where to seek
-for them; and she should cultivate her eye at every opportunity by
-scanning critically every horse she sees--or, to be more moderate, say
-one or two a day--endeavoring to detect a "spavin" or "curb," or what
-not, which the owner does not suspect or perhaps shuts his eyes to.
-Then, when a horse is brought up for her approval, let her take her own
-time, refuse to be hurried or humbugged, but, as already suggested,
-look him over from all sides, at rest and in motion, and finally _get
-him on trial for a week_. This last precaution is the most valuable
-of all, and worth, as "Stonehenge" says, ten per cent. on the price
-of the animal, and it can very often be obtained by the simple offer
-of paying for his services in case he is not purchased; indeed, some
-of the most successful New York City dealers grant this privilege
-to any responsible customer as a matter of course. To return to our
-inspection: First take a side view from a little distance, observing
-that he stands perpendicularly on all four legs, bearing equal weight
-on each; any "pointing," or putting forward of a fore-foot to relieve
-it of its share of weight, being indicative of tenderness if not
-lameness. Notice the size, shape, and relative proportion of the
-different parts, and scrutinize them carefully for swellings, or for
-weakened or deformed joints. Then do the same from before, then from
-behind. Now have him led past you, first at a walk, then at a slow
-trot, insisting that the groom shall not take him by the headstall, but
-by the end of the halter, so as to leave him free to nod his head if
-he pleases. Now have him saddled and bridled, and all his paces shown,
-finishing with a smart gallop long enough to sweat him well, after
-which listen carefully to his breathing, which should be noiseless;
-observe that the heaving of the flanks is regular and not spasmodic,
-and that the beating of the heart is not violent or irregular. During
-your week of trial take some disinterested person with you to serve
-as witness in case of accident or misconduct, and work the horse hard
-every day, so as to be sure that he does not lose his appetite when
-fatigued, but being careful not to injure his feet by galloping on
-hard roads, or to let him slip or strain himself in any way. Remember
-the oft-quoted words of the English stable-man: "It ain't the speed
-that 'urts the 'orse; it's the 'ammer, 'ammer, 'ammer on the 'ard
-'igh-road." After your first ride, leave the saddle on for twenty
-minutes with the girths slackened, and next morning, before putting it
-on again, examine the back carefully for any soreness or puffy spot,
-and if such exist, abstain from riding until it has quite disappeared,
-for a day of patience now is better than a week after a saddle-gall
-has become fairly established. The saddle, of course, should fit the
-horse well, and there should always be a free space along above the
-backbone and withers.
-
-[Illustration: THE SORT OF HORSE TO BUY.]
-
-The cut on the preceding page shows a saddle-horse of the very best
-form for a lady's use.
-
-The color of a horse is an important factor in the price, except in
-the case of animals of extraordinary qualities; and although different
-persons have their special preferences, yet probably the order of the
-following list will give the average taste of the horse-buying public:
-
- 1. Blood bay with black points; that is, with mane, tail, and legs
- from the knee downward black.
-
- 2. Rich chestnut.
-
- 3. Rich brown.
-
- 4. Common bay with black points.
-
- 5. Common chestnut.
-
- 6. Dark dapple gray.
-
- 7. Full black.
-
- 8. Light bay with brown legs.
-
- 9. White.
-
- 10. Common gray.
-
- 11. Brownish-black.
-
- 12. Sorrel.
-
-When your decision is finally made, obtain (from the person selling) a
-warranty, which had better be written upon the bill itself, giving the
-height, age, and color of the horse, and stating that he is sound,
-kind, goes well under the saddle and in single or double harness, and
-is afraid of nothing.
-
-The vices which in the eye of the law make a horse returnable are
-Biting, Cribbing, Kicking, Rearing when dangerous, and Shying when
-dangerous.
-
-In estimating the height of a horse it is convenient to remember that
-fifteen hands make exactly five feet--a "hand" being four inches, or a
-third of a foot.
-
-To aid the inexperienced we give a cut showing a horse, originally of
-high spirit but faulty organization, broken down by ill usage, and
-also append a list of the various defects and ailments which every
-horse-owner ought to know something about.
-
-
-LIST OF DISEASES AND DEFECTS.
-
-[Those printed in small capitals constitute UNSOUNDNESS in the eye of
-the law.]
-
-_Acclimation._--Horses removed from one part of the country to another
-have usually a period of indisposition, often of severe illness, and
-always for some time require more than ordinary care. It is well,
-therefore, not to buy a Western horse in the Atlantic States until he
-has been at least a month in his new surroundings.
-
-_Apoplexy._--Sometimes called "sleepy staggers." Begins with
-drowsiness, passing into insensibility, with snoring respiration, and
-ending in death.
-
-BLINDNESS.--Often comes on gradually. Eyes of a bluish-black are
-thought suspicious, as is inflammation of ball or lid, or cloudiness of
-pupil.
-
-BLIND STAGGERS.--See "Megrims" and "Staggers."
-
-BOG-SPAVIN.--A soft swelling on the inner side of the hock-joint
-towards the front. It is caused by the formation of a sac containing
-synovial fluid which has oozed out of the joint. The result usually of
-brutality. Incurable.
-
-BLOOD-SPAVIN.--A swelling in nearly the same place caused by an
-aneurism or sac of arterial blood. Incurable. Very rare.
-
-BONE-SPAVIN.--A swelling caused by a bony growth on the inside of the
-hock-joint towards the front. It produces lameness, which sometimes
-passes off temporarily after a few minutes' work. Sometimes curable.
-This is what is usually meant by spavin.
-
-_Bots._--Caused by the larvae of the bot-fly, which cling to the lining
-of the stomach by their two hooks till after several months they reach
-maturity and pass out with the droppings. They seem to do little harm,
-and should be left alone, as they cannot be destroyed by any medicine
-safe for a horse to take.
-
-BREAKING DOWN.--A rupture of the tendons of the leg causing the
-fetlock-joint to give way downward. Incurable.
-
-_Broken Knee._--Indicated by white or bare spots, showing that the
-horse has been down, and is presumably a stumbler.
-
-BROKEN WIND.--Accompanied by a husky cough, and indicated by heaving
-flanks and forcible double respiration after exercise. Incurable.
-
-_Capped Hock._--A soft movable swelling on point of hock, caused by a
-bruise, usually got in kicking.
-
-CATARACT.--Opacity of the crystalline lens of the eye.
-
-_Chapped Heels._--Always the result of neglect. Often accompanied by
-fever and constitutional disturbance.
-
-_Cold._--Shown by dulness, rough coat, loss of appetite, tears and
-running at the nose. Give soft food and nurse well without exercise.
-
-_Colic._--Distinguished from inflammation of the bowels by intervals of
-quiet between the spasms, and by the fact that the horse will strike
-his belly violently in the hope of relief. Give first a warm injection,
-to remove any obstruction in lower bowel, and then administer
-stimulants.
-
-_Contracted Heels._--Often caused by improper shoeing, but often
-natural, and in this case producing no ill result.
-
-CORNS.--Do not at all resemble human corns. A corn is a reddish and
-very sensitive spot in the sole of the foot under the shoe, caused by a
-rupture of the delicate blood-vessels, resulting in an abnormal fungoid
-growth.
-
-_Costiveness._--May bring on "blind staggers" in a horse inclined to
-this disease. No horse should be hurried when first taken out till his
-bowels have been moved.
-
-COUGH.--Constitutes unsoundness while it lasts. Caused by foul air,
-dusty food, irregular work. Crush the oats, damp the hay, and give
-linseed tea for drink.
-
-CRIBBING, _or_ CRIB-BITING.--Is sometimes considered a vice, but is
-doubtless a result of indigestion. The horse lays hold of the manger
-with his teeth, straightens his neck, sucks wind into his stomach, and
-ejects gas. Probably some alkali, say lime-water or baking soda, would
-be beneficial.
-
-CURB.--A soft, painful swelling on the back of the hind-leg six or
-eight inches below the hock. See illustration.
-
-_Cutting._--See "Interfering" and "Speedy Cut."
-
-_Discharge from Nostril._--Is usually caused by a simple cold, but may
-be a symptom of the contagious and incurable disease GLANDERS, and
-proximity to it should therefore be carefully avoided.
-
-_Distemper._--A disease of young horses, occurring once only. See
-"Strangles."
-
-_Ewe Neck._--Carries the head high and nearly in a horizontal position,
-so that the bit has not a proper bearing on the "bars," but is inclined
-to slip back towards the grinders.
-
-FARCY.--An incurable and contagious disease, caused by blood-poisoning,
-and indicated by sores usually on inside of thigh, or on neck and hips.
-As it is communicable to human beings, every farcied horse should be
-immediately killed. It is well to avoid all approach to horses having
-sores of any kind. See "Glanders."
-
-_Filled Legs._--A swelled condition of the lower parts, usually caused
-by want of exercise, and relieved by bandaging and rubbing.
-
-_Fistula of the Withers._--An abscess among the muscles over the
-shoulder-blades, usually caused by pressure of saddle upon the bony
-ridge of back. Requires surgical operation.
-
-_Forging._--See "Overreaching."
-
-FOUNDER, OR FEVER IN THE FEET.--An inflammation of the parts between
-the crust of the foot and the pedal-bone, including the _laminae_,
-which cease to secrete horn. It is caused sometimes by hard roads,
-and sometimes by eating or drinking or standing in a draught of air
-when heated. This name is commonly applied to any rheumatic lameness
-of the fore-feet or legs brought on as above, whether its seat be the
-feet, the tendons of the legs, or the muscles of the breast, in which
-last case it is called "chest-founder." The treatment, which is only
-palliative, is hot bathing and friction with liniments.
-
-_Gadfly Bites._--Often very annoying. May be prevented by washing legs
-and flanks with a strong tea of green elder bark.
-
-_Galls_--from saddle.--Best prevented by leaving the saddle in place
-for twenty minutes after loosening the girths. When occurring, however,
-should receive prompt attention, as they are very tedious if neglected.
-Examine the back carefully after the first ride on a new horse, and
-also before putting on the saddle the next day.
-
-GLANDERS.--A disgusting, contagious, and incurable disease, the chief
-symptom of which is a discharge from one nostril, at first transparent,
-then slightly sticky, then thick and yellow. As it is highly contagious
-to human beings, in whom it is equally dreadful and always fatal, _a
-glandered horse should be instantly killed, as the law requires_. It is
-well to avoid all horses having any discharge, however slight, from the
-nose. Glanders may be caught from "farcy," and _vice versa_.
-
-GRAPES.--A filthy and incurable disease of heels and pastern, caused by
-gross neglect. It is the last stage of "grease."
-
-GREASE.--An aggravated form of "chapped heels," accompanied by
-swelling, fever and a serous discharge. Wash clean frequently, and
-anoint with Dalley's salve.
-
-_Gripes._--See "Colic."
-
-HEART DISEASE.--May be detected by auscultation. Incurable. Ends in
-sudden death.
-
-HEAVES.--See "Broken Wind."
-
-_Hide-bound._--The skin appears too tight, and as if fast to the ribs.
-It is caused by a disordered stomach, and requires nourishing food.
-
-_Inflammation of Bowels._--The pain is continuous, and the horse is
-careful not actually to strike his belly with his feet. Requires, of
-course, very different treatment from colic, but an injection should be
-the first thing done.
-
-_Interfering._--Striking the fetlock-joint with the foot. Caused
-sometimes by weakness and fatigue, but usually by bad shoeing, and a
-good blacksmith is the best adviser.
-
-_Lampas._--A swelling of the gums, relieved by lancing.
-
-KNEE-SPRUNG.--Incurable. Result of overwork.
-
-KNUCKLED.--Same as "set over." A condition of the fetlock-joint
-corresponding to that of the "sprung" knee.
-
-LAMINITIS.--The scientific name of "founder."
-
-MAD STAGGERS.--Violent insanity, caused by inflammation of the brain.
-The last stage sometimes of sleepy staggers. Incurable.
-
-_Mallenders._--A scurvy patch at the back of the knee, caused by
-neglect, and not obstinate.
-
-_Mange._--An itch produced by a parasitic insect.
-
-MEGRIMS.--A falling-sickness like epilepsy. It begins with a
-laying back of the ears and shaking of the head; is accompanied by
-convulsions; and passes off of itself in two or three minutes, the
-horse appearing to be none the worse. Often called "Blind Staggers."
-
-NAVICULAR DISEASE.--An ulceration of the navicular-joint in the foot,
-causing lameness; incurable, except by extirpation of the nerve.
-
-NERVED.--A nerved horse has had one of the nerves of the foot cut to
-remove the pain and lameness caused by the "navicular disease."
-
-OPHTHALMIA.--A purulent inflammation of the eye. Epidemic.
-
-ORGANIC DISEASE of the bony system anywhere constitutes unsoundness.
-
-_Overreaching._--Striking the toe of the front-foot with the toe of the
-hind-foot; sometimes called "clicking." Often remedied by shoeing.
-
-_Poll-evil._--An abscess in the top of the neck, near the head, caused
-by a blow.
-
-PUMICE FOOT.--Bulging sole, weak crust, the result of "laminitis."
-Incurable.
-
-_Quarter Crack._--Occurs usually on the inside of fore-foot. A bad
-sign, as well as very slow and troublesome to cure.
-
-QUIDDING.--Dropping the food half chewed from the mouth. Indicative of
-sore throat.
-
-QUITTOR.--Burrowing abscess in the foot.
-
-_Rheumatism._--Cause, effect, and treatment the same as for human
-beings.
-
-RING-BONE.--An enlargement of the bone by growth, a little above the
-coronet.
-
-ROARING.--Caused by a contraction of windpipe. Incurable.
-
-RUPTURES of all kinds constitute unsoundness.
-
-_Saddle-gall._--Swelling caused by chafing of saddle. If the skin is
-broken it is called a "sitfast;" if not, a "warble."
-
-_Sallenders._--Scurvy patch in front of hock-joint.
-
-_Sand Crack._--Occurs on the inside of fore-foot and on the toe of the
-hind-foot.
-
-_Scratches._--See "Chapped Heels."
-
-_Scouring._--Looseness of the bowels.
-
-SEEDY TOE.--A separation of the crust of the hoof from the laminae, the
-result of laminitis. Scarcely curable.
-
-SIDE-BONE.--A bony growth just above the coronet, causing lameness.
-Incurable.
-
-SPAVIN.--See "Bone, Blood, and Bog Spavin."
-
-_Speedy Cut._--A cut of the knee from the foot of opposite leg.
-Dangerous, because the pain often causes the horse to fall.
-
-STAGGERS.--See "Apoplexy." "Sleepy," "Trotting," and "Mad" Staggers
-are different forms and stages of the same disease, caused usually by
-overfeeding.
-
-_Strangles, or Colt Distemper._--A severe swelling of the glands of the
-throat, which gathers and breaks.
-
-STRING-HALT _or_ SPRING-HALT.--A peculiar snatching up of the hind-leg,
-caused by some nervous disorder. Incurable.
-
-_Surfeit._--An eruption of round, blunt spots, caused by heating food.
-
-THICK WIND.--Defective respiration without noise. Incurable.
-
-THICKENING OF BACK SINEWS.--Result of strain.
-
-THRUSH.--An offensive discharge from the frog, the result of
-inflammation, caused by want of cleanliness or overwork, etc.
-
-THOROUGH-PIN.--A sac of synovial fluid formed between the bones of the
-hock from side to side.
-
-_Warble._--A saddle-gall when simply swollen but not broken.
-
-_Warts._--Should be removed, as they tend to spread.
-
-WHIRLBONE LAMENESS.--Lameness of hip-joint.
-
-_Windgalls, or Puffs._--Little oval swellings just above the
-fetlock-joint between the back sinew and the bone.
-
-_Worms._--Sometimes troublesome, but less so than often supposed.
-
-WHISTLING.--Caused by a contraction of windpipe. Incurable.
-
-[Illustration: THE SORT OF HORSE NOT TO BUY.]
-
-
-
-
-INDEX.
-
-
-Acclimation, 148.
-
-Advancing at Touch of Heel, 41, 44.
-
-Amateur Horse-training, 1.
-
-Amble, 28.
-
-Apoplexy, 148.
-
-Appel, 28.
-
-Approaching a Fence, 119.
-
-Arm, 135.
-
-Arriere-main, 28.
-
-Avant-main, 28.
-
-
-Back, 135.
-
-Back Sinew, 135.
-
-Backing, 75, 76.
-
-Barrel, or Chest, 135.
-
-Bars, 15.
-
-Belly, 137.
-
-Bending the Neck to Right and Left, 32, 35, 48, 49.
-
-Biting, 148.
-
-Blind Staggers, 148.
-
-Blindness, 148.
-
-Blood-spavin, 150.
-
-Bone-spavin, 150.
-
-Boring, 150.
-
-Bots, 150.
-
-Breaking Down, 150.
-
-Breast, or Bosom, 137.
-
-Bridles, 12.
-
-Bridle-tooth, 15, 18.
-
-Broken Knee, 150.
-
-Buying a Saddle-horse, 132.
-
-
-Cannon-bone, 137.
-
-Cantering, 64.
-
-Capped Hock, 150.
-
-Cataract, 150.
-
-Cavesson, 46.
-
-Changing the Leading Foot, 66, 79.
-
-Chapped Heels, 150.
-
-Chin Groove, 15, 29, 137.
-
-Cold, 150.
-
-Colic, 150.
-
-Color, 147.
-
-Contracted Heels, 150.
-
-Corns, 150.
-
-Coronet, 137.
-
-Costiveness, 151.
-
-Cough, 151.
-
-Crest, 137.
-
-Cribbing, 148, 151.
-
-Croup, 38, 137.
-
-Curb-place, 137.
-
-Curbs, 151.
-
-Cutting, 151.
-
-
-Deux Pistes, 29, 71.
-
-Discharge from Nostrils, 12, 15.
-
-Diseases and Defects, 148.
-
-Distemper, 151.
-
-Dress, 88.
-
-Duke of Wellington, 110.
-
-Dumb-jockey, 46.
-
-
-Ear, 137.
-
-Elbow, 29, 137.
-
-Etiquette in the Saddle, 87.
-
-Ewe Neck, 151.
-
-Eye, 137.
-
-
-"Falling Through," 16.
-
-Farcy, 151.
-
-Fetlock, 29, 137.
-
-Filled Legs, 151.
-
-Fistula of the Withers, 151.
-
-Flank, 137.
-
-Flexion of the Jaw, 32.
-
-_Flexions de la Machoire_, 21.
-
-_Flexions de l'Encolure_, 32.
-
-Flying Trot, 58.
-
-Forearm, 29, 137.
-
-Forehand, 38.
-
-Forehead, 137.
-
-Forge, 29.
-
-Forging, 152.
-
-Founder, or Fever in the Feet, 152.
-
-Frog, 29, 137.
-
-
-Gadfly Bites, 152.
-
-Galloping, 64.
-
-Galls, 152.
-
-Gaskin, or Lower Thigh, 137.
-
-"Getting a Horse accustomed to Skirts," 42.
-
-Girths, 138.
-
-Glanders, 152.
-
-Going on _Deux Pistes_, 72.
-
-Grapes, 152.
-
-Grease, 152.
-
-Grinders, 29.
-
-Gripes, 152.
-
-Groom, 116.
-
-Guiding Bridlewise, 55.
-
-
-Hand, 29, 104.
-
-Hand-gallop, 29, 64.
-
-Heart Disease, 152.
-
-Heaves, 153.
-
-Heel, 138.
-
-Hide-bound, 153.
-
-Hip, 138.
-
-Hock, 29, 138.
-
-Holding the Bit lightly, 21, 24.
-
-Hoof, 138.
-
-Horse-training is not Horse-breaking, 9.
-
-
-Interfering, 28, 153.
-
-
-Jaw, 138.
-
-Jog-trot, 58.
-
-
-Kicking, 69.
-
-Knee, 138.
-
-Knee-sprung, 153.
-
-Knuckled, 153.
-
-
-Laminitis, 153.
-
-Lampas, 153.
-
-Leading with Left Fore-foot, 88.
-
-Leading with Right Fore-foot, 80.
-
-Leaping, 118.
-
-Loins, 138.
-
-Lower Thigh, 138.
-
-Lowering the Head, 25, 28.
-
-Lunging-cord, 46.
-
-
-Mad Staggers, 153.
-
-Mallenders, 153.
-
-Mane, 138.
-
-Manege, 29.
-
-Mange, 153.
-
-Megrims, 153.
-
-Method of holding Reins in both Hands, 111.
-
-_Methode d'Equitation_, Baucher, 4.
-
-Mount, 91.
-
-Mounting, 92.
-
-Moving the Croup to Right and Left, 38, 52.
-
-Muzzle, 138.
-
-
-Navicular Disease, 153.
-
-Nerved, 153.
-
-Nippers, 30.
-
-Nostrils, 138.
-
-
-On the Road, 107.
-
-On which Side to Ride, 100.
-
-"One, Two, Three," 95.
-
-Ophthalmia, 153.
-
-Ordinary Pirouette, 71.
-
-Organic Disease, 153.
-
-Overreaching, 153.
-
-
-Pace, 30.
-
-Pacing, 192.
-
-Parts and Points of a Horse, 138.
-
-Passage, 30, 71, 73, 138.
-
-Pastern, 30.
-
-Pastern-joint, 138.
-
-Piaffer, 30.
-
-Pirouettes, 30, 71.
-
-Pisiform-bone, 138.
-
-Piste, 30, 74.
-
-Placing the Foot in the Stirrup, 96.
-
-Poll, 30, 138.
-
-Poll-evil, 154.
-
-Position in Saddle, 97.
-
-"Pulling the Hands steadily Apart," 33.
-
-Pulling the Right Rein, 36.
-
-Pumice Foot, 154.
-
-Punishment in Case of Resistance, 27.
-
-
-Quarter Crack, 154.
-
-Quarters, 138.
-
-Quidding, 154.
-
-Quittor, 154.
-
-
-Rack, 30.
-
-Ramener, 30.
-
-Rassembler, 30.
-
-Ready to Mount, 94.
-
-Rearing, 66, 148.
-
-Reins, Act of Changing, 77.
-
-Reins in Hand, 43, 77.
-
-Rheumatism, 154.
-
-Riding in Circles, 79.
-
-Ring-bone, 154.
-
-Rising to the Leap, 127.
-
-Roaring, 154.
-
-Running Away, 69.
-
-Ruptures, 154.
-
-
-Saddle-gall, 154.
-
-Saddles, 12, 13.
-
-Sand Crack, 154.
-
-Scouring, 154.
-
-Scratches, 154.
-
-Seat, 102, 103.
-
-Seedy Toe, 154.
-
-Shank, 30.
-
-Shoulder, 138.
-
-Shying, 68.
-
-Side-bone, 154.
-
-Sidney, Mr., 130.
-
-Single-foot, 30.
-
-Snaffle, 30.
-
-Spavins and Splints, 30, 138, 154.
-
-Speedy Cut, 154.
-
-Staggers, 154.
-
-Starting, 99.
-
-Stifle-joint, 31, 138.
-
-Stopping at Touch of Whip on Back, 45.
-
-Strangles, 154.
-
-String-halt, 154.
-
-Style, 50.
-
-Surcingle, 31.
-
-Surfeit, 155.
-
-
-Tail, 134.
-
-Thick Wind, 155.
-
-Thickening of Back Sinews, 155.
-
-Thigh, 31, 139.
-
-Thorough-pin, 155.
-
-Thrapple, or Throttle, 139.
-
-Throat-latches, 15, 31.
-
-Thrush, 155.
-
-Trotting, 58.
-
-True Arm, 139.
-
-Turning, 112.
-
-
-Vices, 148.
-
-"Vieille Moustache," 130.
-
-
-Walking, 46, 51.
-
-Warble, 155.
-
-Warts, 155.
-
-Water Jump, 121.
-
-Whips, 13.
-
-Whirlbone Lameness, 155.
-
-Whistling, 155.
-
-Windgalls, 155.
-
-Withers, 31, 139.
-
-Worms, 155.
-
-
-
-
- * * * * * *
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
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