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diff --git a/42842-8.txt b/42842-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 59a9f1d..0000000 --- a/42842-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7878 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of America, Volume 5 (of 6), by Joel Cook - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: America, Volume 5 (of 6) - -Author: Joel Cook - -Release Date: May 29, 2013 [EBook #42842] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME 5 (OF 6) *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - The Title Page and Table of Contents for this book refer to it as - Volume V. The half-title, and page and chapter numbering is - consistent with this being the first half of Volume III. - - - - -THE OLD BAY STATE. - -VOL. III. - - - - - [Illustration: _The Temperance Outfit_] - - - - - _EDITION ARTISTIQUE_ - - The World's Famous - Places and Peoples - - AMERICA - - BY - JOEL COOK - - In Six Volumes - Volume V. - - MERRILL AND BAKER - New York London - - - - -THIS EDITION ARTISTIQUE OF THE WORLD'S FAMOUS PLACES AND PEOPLES IS -LIMITED TO ONE THOUSAND NUMBERED AND REGISTERED COPIES, OF WHICH THIS -COPY IS NO. 205 - -Copyright, Henry T. Coates & Co., 1900 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - -VOLUME V - - - PAGE - - FANEUIL HALL, BOSTON 44 - - ALONG THE SHORE AT CAPE ANNE, GLOUCESTER, - MASS. 86 - - STATE CAPITOL, HARTFORD, CONN. 162 - - LOG BRIDGE OVER THE WILD CAT, NEAR - JACKSON, N. H. 212 - - HOUSE OF "THE PEARL OF ORR'S ISLAND," - CASCO BAY, ME. 244 - - ALONG THE COAST OF BAR HARBOR, ME. 270 - - - - -AMERICA, PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE. - - - - -XV. - -THE OLD BAY STATE. - - Early Explorations -- John Cabot -- Bartholomew Gosnold -- - The Old Colony -- The Mayflower -- Plymouth -- Plymouth - Rock -- Duxbury --Samoset -- Governor Bradford -- Miles - Standish -- Cape Cod -- Chatham -- Barnstable -- Truro -- - Highland Light -- Provincetown -- The Puritan Compact -- - Quincy -- Marshfield -- Daniel Webster -- Minot's Ledge -- - Nantasket -- Hingham -- Squantum -- Boston -- Shawmut - --Boston Harbor and Islands -- Boston Common -- Beacon Hill - and the State House -- The Codfish -- Boston Attractions -- - Old South Church -- Old State House -- Faneuil Hall -- Old - Christ Church -- Boston Fire -- Boston Development -- The - New West End -- Parks and Suburbs --Brook Farm -- Newton -- - Nonatum Hill -- Natick -- Cochituate Lake --Wellesley -- - Sudbury -- The Wayside Inn -- Charlestown -- Old Ironsides - -- Jackson's Head -- Bunker Hill -- Cambridge -- Harvard - University -- Henry W. Longfellow -- James Russell Lowell - -- Oliver Wendell Holmes -- Margaret Fuller -- Waltham -- - Lexington -- Concord in Middlesex and its Bridge -- Ralph - Waldo Emerson -- Nathaniel Hawthorne -- Henry D. Thoreau -- - The Alcotts -- Massachusetts North Shore -- Lynn -- Nahant - -- Swampscott -- Marblehead -- Salem and the Witches -- - Beverley -- Wenham Lake -- Ipswich -- Andover -- Merrimack - River -- Salisbury -- Concord in New Hampshire -- - Manchester -- Nashua -- Lowell -- Lawrence -- Haverhill -- - Newburyport -- Bridal of Pennacook -- Cape Ann -- - Gloucester -- The Fisheries -- Norman's Woe -- Wreck of - the Hesperus -- Land's End -- Thatcher's Island --Rockport - -- Lanesville -- Granite -- The Fishermen. - - -EARLY EXPLORATIONS. - -John Cabot was the first explorer of the coasts of New England under -British auspices. After Columbus had discovered America, fabulous -tales were told of its outlying islands. The primitive maps -represented the Atlantic Ocean as full of islands, some being very -large, especially the Island of Brazil, and the fabled Island of the -Seven Cities. The latter was said by sailors to be inhabited by -Christians who years before had fled from seven cities of Asia, under -their seven bishops, taking refuge there. Bristol was then the leading -English seaport, and five years after the discovery by Columbus, John -Cabot started from it on a western voyage of exploration in search of -these famous islands. King Henry VII. encouraged the enterprise, and -in May, 1497, Cabot sailed in the little ship "Matthew," with a crew -of eighteen, and going westward he discovered one of these islands, -which he called the New Found Land. It was Cape Breton Island, but -being apparently unproductive and without inhabitants, although some -signs of people were seen, he soon returned to England. The greatest -excitement followed his arrival home, and the report got abroad that -he had discovered the Island of the Seven Cities and the coast of -Asia. Cabot became all the rage in England, and a writer of that time -records that Englishmen called him "the Great Admiral," followed him -about "like madmen," that he was "dressed in silks," and "treated like -a prince." Cabot, feeling his importance, wanted his friends to share -his good fortune, so he appointed some of them governors, and others -bishops over the new world he had discovered, while King Henry was so -delighted at the success of the voyage that he sent Cabot a letter of -thanks and the munificent present of £10. King Henry VII. was always -regarded as being "a little near." - -In 1498, another and larger expedition was fitted out, Cabot planning -to sail westward until he reached the land he had discovered in the -previous year, and then he thought by turning south he would come to -the Island of Cipango (Japan), where he would fill his ships with -spices and jewels, a half-dozen small vessels making up the fleet. -They took a more northerly course than before, got among icebergs, and -where the summer days were so long there was very little night. They -reached Labrador, where the sailors were frightened at the amount of -ice, and turning south, Cabot sailed along the American coast nearly -to Florida, once trying to plant a colony, but being discouraged by -the barren soil, abandoning it. Yet sterile as the land might be, the -waters were filled with fish, so that Cabot called the country the -"Land of the Codfish," there was such an abundance of them. The -explorers recorded that the bears were harmless, they could so easily -get food, describing how they would swim out into the sea and catch -the fish. Then Cabot disappeared from view. Whether he died on the -homeward voyage or after he returned is unknown, as everything about -his subsequent career has faded from history. But his two voyages were -the foundation of the British claim to the Atlantic coast from -Labrador to Florida, and the basis of all the English grants for the -subsequently formed American colonies. - -Bartholomew Gosnold planted the first English colony in the Old Bay -State. Upon Friday, May 14, 1602, after elaborate preparations, he -sailed from Falmouth, England, in the ship "Concord," his party -numbering thirty-two, of whom about a dozen expected to remain in the -new country as settlers. Crossing the ocean and coming into view of -the American coast, he steered south, soon finding his progress barred -by a bold headland, which encircled him about. He had got into the -bight of Cape Cod Bay, and thus discovered that great bended, sandy -peninsula, to which he gave the name from the abundance of codfish he -found disporting in the waters. Many whales were also seen, and vast -numbers of fish of all kinds. He tried to get out of the bay, and -coasting around the long and curiously hooked cape, emerged into the -Atlantic, and then coming down the outer side got into Vineyard Sound, -where he planted his colony on Cuttyhunk Island, but soon abandoned -it. Gosnold returned to England, and in 1607 sailed with Newport's -expedition, carrying Captain John Smith to Virginia. - - -THE OLD COLONY. - -The first English settlement permanently planted in New England was -the famous "Old Colony" at Plymouth. The Puritan Separatists, from the -Church of England, sought refuge from English persecution in Holland, -living in Leyden under their pastor, John Robinson, for eleven years, -when they decided to migrate to America. They arranged with the -Virginia Company to send them across the ocean, and about the middle -of the summer of 1620 the little band of Pilgrims sailed from -Delft-haven, the port of Leyden, on the "Speedwell," in charge of -Elder Brewster. The "Mayflower" joined at Southampton with other -Puritans from England, but the "Speedwell" sprung a leak and they put -into Plymouth roads. Then they decided to go on in the "Mayflower" -alone, and the party left Plymouth early in September. They were -seeking Virginia, but found the land, after a voyage of over two -months, at Cape Cod, anchoring inside the Cape. Then they thanked God, -"who had brought them over the vast and furious ocean, and delivered -them from all the perils and miseries thereof, again to set their feet -on the firm and stable earth." While the ship lay there, the famous -"Mayflower Compact" was drawn up, pledging the signers to obey the -government that it established, and John Carver was chosen the first -Governor, forty-one men signing the compact. After nearly a month -spent in exploration, their shallop going all about the coasts, -Plymouth was selected, and the pioneers landed December 21, 1620, the -day being now annually celebrated as "Forefathers' Day." - -Plymouth has a little land-locked harbor behind a long and narrow sand -beach, projected northward from the ridge of Manomet below, this beach -acting as a protective breakwater to the wharves. The harbor is so -shallow, however, that there is little trade by sea. The town spreads -upon the bluff shores, and on a plateau to the hills in the rear. -There is now a population of about nine thousand, engaged mainly in -manufacturing cordage and textiles, and having a considerable fishery -fleet. While the town is of modern build, yet it is devoted to the -memory which gives it deathless fame, every relic of the Pilgrims -being restored and perpetuated. There is little to be seen that comes -from the olden time, however, outside of the hills and harbor and -original streets, excepting the carefully cherished relics of the -"Mayflower's" passengers, that have been gathered together. The choice -of Plymouth as the landing-place seems to have been mainly from -necessity, when protracted explorations failed to find a better place, -and the coming of winter compelled a landing somewhere. The actual -location was hardly well considered, the Pilgrims themselves being -far from satisfied. After the "Mayflower" anchored inside of Cape Cod, -several weeks were passed in explorations, and finally, upon a Sunday -in December, 1620, a landing was made upon Clark's Island, where -religious services were held, the first in New England. Upon the most -elevated part of this island stands a huge boulder, about twelve feet -high, called from some local circumstance the "Election Rock." Its -face bears the words taken from _Mourt's Relation_, which chronicled -the voyage of the "Mayflower": - - "Upon the Sabbath-Day wee rested, 20 December, 1620." - -Eighteen of the Pilgrims thus "rested," after their shallop, in making -the shore, had been almost shipwrecked. The next day they sailed -across the bay to the mainland, their first landing being then made at -Plymouth, and upon the second day, December 22d, the entire company -came ashore and the settlement began. - -Within the Pilgrim Hall, a fireproof building upon the chief street, -are kept the precious relics of the "Mayflower" and the Pilgrims, with -paintings of the embarkation from Delft-haven and landing at Plymouth, -and old portraits of the leaders of the colony. Among the interesting -documents are autograph writings, establishing a chain of -acquaintanceship connecting the original Pilgrims with the present -time. Peregrine White was the first child of the new colony, the -infant being born on the "Mayflower" after she came into Cape Cod Bay, -in November, 1620, and he was only a month old when they landed. The -baby, surviving all their hardships, lived to a ripe old age, and -"Grandfather Cobb," born in 1694, knew him well. Cobb, in his day, -lived to be the oldest man in New England, his life covering space in -three centuries, for he exceeded one hundred and seven years, dying in -1801. William R. Sever, born in 1790, knew Cobb and recollected him -well, and living until he was ninety-seven years old, died in 1887. -These three lives connected the Pilgrim landing almost with the -present day. The old cradle that rocked Peregrine White on the -"Mayflower," and after they landed, is preserved--an upright, -stiff-backed, wicker-work basket, upon rude wooden rockers. One of the -chief paintings represents the signing of the memorable "Mayflower -Compact." There are also in the hall some of the old straight-backed -chairs of the Pilgrims, with their pots and platters, and among other -relics Miles Standish's sword. In the court-house are the original -records of the colony, the first allotment of lands among the -settlers, their deeds, agreements and wills, and the patent given the -colony by Earl Warwick in 1629. There are also shown in quaint -handwriting, with the ink partly faded out, records of how they -divided their cattle, when it was decided to change from the original -plan of holding them in common. Signatures of the Pilgrims are -attached to many of these documents. Governor Carver died the first -year, William Bradford succeeding, and there is preserved in Governor -Bradford's writing the famous order establishing trial by jury in the -colony. - - -THE PLYMOUTH ROCK. - - "The breaking waves dashed high - On a stern and rock-bound coast." - -Thus begins Mrs. Hemans' beautiful hymn on the landing of the -Pilgrims. Unfortunately for the poetry, however, sand is everywhere -about, and scarcely a rock or boulder can be seen for miles, excepting -the very little one on which they landed. Down near the water-side is -this sacred stone, worshipped by all the Pilgrim descendants, the -retrocession of the sea having left it some distance back. It is a -gray syenite boulder, oval-shaped, and about six feet long. It was -some time ago unfortunately split, and the parts have been cemented -together. At the time of the landing this boulder lay on the sandy -beach, partly embedded, being almost solitary on these sands, for -unlike the verge of Manomet to the southward, and the coast north of -Boston, this sandy shore is almost without rocks of any kind. Dropped -here in the glacial period, and lying partly in the water, the rock -made a boat-landing naturally attractive to the water-weary Pilgrims -when they coasted along in their shallop from Clark's Island, so they -stepped out upon it to get ashore dry-shod. The rock is in its -original location, but has been elevated several feet to a higher -level, is surmounted by an imposing granite canopy, and is railed in -for protection from the relic-hunter. The numerals "1620" are rudely -carved upon its side, and a sort of fissure in its face seems like the -impress of a foot. Surmounting the canopy is a scallop shell, the -distinctive emblem of the pilgrim. The scallop has been called the -"Butterfly of the Sea," and in the time of the Crusades, a scallop -shell fastened in the cap denoted that the wearer had made a -pilgrimage to the Holy Land. Thus it is said in the _Hermit_: - - "He quits his cell, the pilgrim staff he bore, - And fixed his scallop in his hat before." - -Behind the Plymouth Rock rises the bluff shore into Cole's Hill, -having its steep slopes sodded, this having been the place up which -the Pilgrims climbed after the landing. A view to the front shows the -wharves, and across the bay the narrow sandspit protecting the harbor, -while on the right hand is the long ridge of Manomet, and over the -water to the left appear distant sand-dunes along Duxbury Beach. Off -to the northward rises the "Captain's Hill" of Duxbury, surmounted -with the monument to Captain Miles Standish, erected in 1889, rising -one hundred and ten feet. Upon Cole's Hill was the first burial-place -of the Pilgrims, and here were interred about half the intrepid band, -who died from the privations of the first winter. Their bones were -occasionally washed out by heavy rains, or found in digging for the -foundations of buildings, but all have been carefully collected, and, -with several of the dead thus exposed, were again entombed in the -canopy over Plymouth Rock. A little way to the southward is Leyden -Street, running from the water's edge for some distance back up the -slope to the side of the "Burial Hill," the first cemetery. This was -the earliest highway laid out in New England, although it did not -receive its present name until long afterwards. Upon this street the -Pilgrims built their first rude houses, the lots extending southward -from it to the "Town Brook," a short distance beyond, which supplied -them with good water, and was the chief feature inducing them to -select this place for settlement. - -The story of their landing is told in _Mourt's Relation_, written by -one of the actors in this great historical drama. After describing -their explorations and hasty selection of the place, he continues: -"So, in the morning, after we had called on God for direction, we came -to this resolution, to go presently ashore again, and to take a better -view of two places which we thought most fitting for us; for we could -not now take time for further search or consideration, our victuals -being much spent, especially our beer, and it being now the 19th of -December. After our landing and viewing the places so well as we -could, we came to a conclusion, by most voices, to set on a high -ground, where there is a great deal of land cleared, and hath been -planted with corn three or four years ago; and there is a very sweet -brook runs under the hillside, and many delicate springs of as good -water as can be drunk, and where we may harbor our shallops and boats -exceeding well; and in this brook fish in their season; on the further -side of the river also much corn-ground cleared. In one field is a -great hill on which we point to make a platform and plant our -ordnance, which will command all around about. From thence we may see -into the bay and far into the sea, and we may see thence Cape Cod. Our -greatest labor will be the fetching of our wood, which is half a -quarter of an English mile; but there is enough so far off. What -people inhabit here we know not, for as yet we have seen none. So -there we made our rendezvous, and a place for some of our people, -about twenty, resolving in the morning to come all ashore and to build -houses." About a week after landing they began constructing their -first fort on the hill, and allotted the plots of land on their -street, subsequently named Leyden. Thus the town was begun, and behind -it rose two hills, the one now known as the Burial Hill being at the -head of this street, and elevated about one hundred and fifty feet -above the sea. Miles Standish, with his military eye, for he had seen -veteran service in Flanders, selected this hill for the fort, and -here in 1622 was built the square timber block-house that made them -both a fort and a church, the entire settlement as it then existed -being enclosed with a stockade for further protection. This caused the -hill to be named Fort Hill, and it was not until long afterward that -it was used as a cemetery and called Burial Hill, the first interred -being some of the original Pilgrims after the graveyard on Cole's -Hill, down by the waterside, had been abandoned. - -Upon Fort Hill was built the "Watch House," where an outlook was kept -for the Indians. Stones now mark the locations both of the fort and -the watchhouse, and surrounding them are the graves of several of the -"Mayflower" Pilgrims, with many of their descendants, the dark slate -gravestones having been brought out from England. There is a fine -outlook from Burial Hill, far over the sea to the distant yellow -sand-streak of Cape Cod. About a half-mile northward is the other -hill, rising somewhat higher, and upon it is the National Monument to -the Pilgrims, dedicated in 1889. This is a massive granite pedestal -forty-five feet high, surmounted by the largest stone statue in -existence, a colossal figure of Faith, thirty-six feet high, and -adorned by large seated statues emblematic of the principles upon -which the settlement was founded, representing Law, Morality, Freedom -and Education. Upon this great monument are also representations of -the landing of the Pilgrims, their names, and the "Mayflower -Compact." It was into this infant colony of Plymouth, after some weeks -of careful parley and investigation, there strode the stalwart Indian -Samoset, making their acquaintance and paving the way for the -subsequent treaty and alliance with Massasoit, which for many years -was scrupulously observed by both parties, and not broken until after -he died. Canonicus, of the Narragansetts, to the southward, sent to -the colony after Massasoit's death a sheaf of arrows bound with a -rattlesnake's skin as a token of hostility. Governor Bradford did not -want war, but he knew they must maintain a brave outlook, so he -promptly filled the skin with powder and shot and sent it back to -Canonicus, who understood the grim challenge, and fearing the deadly -musketry, prudently restrained the hostile instincts of his tribe. The -privations of the first year, which killed half the settlers, and were -only relieved by succor from England, are said to have originated the -New England Thanksgiving Festival Day, which has since spread over the -whole country. In December, 1621, they had their first Thanksgiving, -upon the arrival of a relief ship from abroad. Such was the dawning of -the ruling race of the American nation. - - -DUXBURY AND MILES STANDISH. - -Upon the upper side of Plymouth Bay, enclosing its northern portion, -is one of those long peninsulas of sand and rocks, abounding upon the -Massachusetts coasts, which projects about six miles southeastward -into the sea and terminates in a high knob, called the Gurnet, with a -hook turned inward. This elongated sand-strip is Duxbury Beach, the -town of Duxbury being upon the mainland inside, a fishing village -probably best known as the terminus of the French Atlantic Cable. It -was at Duxbury that the first regular pastor was Ralph Partridge, whom -Cotton Mather described as having "the innocence of a dove and the -loftiness of an eagle." The Pilgrims allotted this district to Miles -Standish and to their youngest member, John Alden. Standish named it -from Duxbury Hall, in Lancashire, the seat of his English ancestors. -The brave Miles was not a Puritan and did not belong to their church, -but as he was an experienced warrior, they made him the commander of -their standing army of twelve men. Is is said that there have been -only two renowned military chieftains in history who were personally -acquainted with all their soldiers--Julius Cæsar and Miles Standish. -The redoubtable old captain lost his wife Rose soon after the landing, -and he then engaged the fascinating and youthful Alden to do his -courtship for him and woo the gentle Priscilla Mullins, with the usual -result that the maiden preferred the more attractive Alden to the grim -old soldier. Standish has been described as "a short man, very brave, -but impetuous and choleric, and his name soon became a terror to all -hostile Indians." His is the romance of early Plymouth, for he has -been made the hero of Longfellow's poem, and of renowned operas and -many New England tales, while the fair Priscilla gave her name to the -great Long Island Sound steamer. Standish lived upon the "Captain's -Hill," out on the Duxbury peninsula, the highest land thereabout, -rising one hundred and eighty feet, upon a broad point projecting into -Plymouth Bay. His monument is near the site of his house upon the -bare-topped, oval-shaped hill, a rather bleak place, however, to have -selected for a home. Beyond it the projecting Duxbury Beach ends in -the high Gurnet, with twin lighthouses, and then hooks inward to -another bold terminating bulb, the headland of Saquish. To the -northward is Clark's Island, where the Pilgrims first landed, a -similarly round-topped mass rising from the water. Thus is Plymouth -Bay environed, for to the southward its long guarding ridge on that -side, Manomet, projects far into the sea. - - -CAPE COD. - -The Old Bay State presents a front to the rough Atlantic like a -gladiator at bay. She has in Cape Cod one defensive forearm boldly -extended, and she likewise is prepared, if necessary, to thrust out -the other, which keeps close guard upon her rugged granite breast in -Cape Ann. These capes are the portals of Massachusetts Bay, and of the -ocean entrance to Boston. Everyone, in viewing the map, marvels at the -extraordinary formation of Cape Cod. Thoreau, who in days gone by -tramped all over the Cape, says, "A man may stand there and put all -America behind him." This great sandy headland stretches eastward from -the mainland at Sandwich about thirty miles, then turns north and -northwest thirty miles more, finally terminating in a huge hook, bent -around to the south and east again, and forming the spacious -landlocked harbor of Provincetown. At Harwich and Chatham the elbow -sharply bends, the shoulder is at Buzzard's Bay, the wrist at Truro, -and the closing fingers make Provincetown's haven. The Cape is nearly -all white sand, with boulders occasionally appearing, particularly -near the extremity. Thin layers of soil extend as far as Truro, but -the sand is seen through many rents, and the extremity is completely -bare, being a wilderness of sand, kept in partial motion by the winds, -and making constantly shifting dunes. The prevalent northeast winds -and surf are regarded as having made the hooked end of the Cape by -gradually moving the sands upon the shore around to the west and -south. This hooked end impressed the Colonial navigators, and the -ancient Dutch maps call it Staaten Hoeck, and the enclosed waters -Staaten Bay. The extremely white sand, in contrast with the darker -rocks of more northern shores, led Champlain to name it Cape Blanc. -Gosnold, as already announced, from the abundance of codfish named it -Cape Cod, whereof the faithful historian, Cotton Mather, who records -the fact, writes naïvely that he supposes it will never lose its name -"till swarms of codfish be seen swimming on the highest hills." - -This remarkable cape came near being an island, Buzzard's Bay on the -south and Cape Cod bay on the north being so deeply indented that -their waters approach within about seven miles. The isthmus is a low, -broad alluvial valley stretching between, having Monumet River flowing -from Herring Pond south into Buzzard's Bay, and the Scusset River -north from the divide, their headwaters only a thousand yards apart, -so that this narrow neck of land, nowhere elevated more than -twenty-five feet, is all that saves the famous Cape from being an -island. A canal was projected there as early as 1676, and the proposed -"Cape Cod Ship Canal" has been regularly agitated ever since, and may -at some time be constructed, saving the shipping from the long detour -around the Cape. This neck has been called "the collar of the Cape," -and beyond was the Indian domain of Monomoy. Chatham then was Nauset, -and Barnstable was Cummaquid, these, as indeed every village on the -Cape, being famous nurseries of sailors and fishermen. Here is some -agriculture, the farms and towns having roomy old houses, and the -extensive cranberry bogs showing one of the chief industries of the -people. Along the southern shore are Marshpee, Cotuit, and Hyannis, -all changing from fishing-ports to modern fashionable watering-places. -The surface is composed of sharply defined hills of white sand, -having broad sandy levels between that are almost desert plains. There -are some trees, but the growth becomes gradually stunted, as the -journey is made out upon the Cape, and villages are less frequent and -population sparser. Modern cottages crown the hilltops, and the -frequent cranberry bogs are as level as a floor, being thickly grown -with the myriad runners and sombre foliage of the prolific plant. - -Passing Yarmouth and Harwich, the railway turns northward at the elbow -of the cape, where Chatham is on the ocean shore. Brewster is -northward, and Eastham, noted for its fortified church, whose colonial -pastor received by law, for his salary, part of every stranded whale -coming upon the shore. To the left is Welfleet, on the bay shore, and -to the right the triple lighthouses of Nauset Beach, in front of which -the ocean tides divide, moving in opposite directions, one current -south to Nantucket Sound, and the other north, to go around the Cape -into Massachusetts Bay. Northward is the sandy desert of Truro, the -"Dangerfield" of early days, regarded as the most fatal coast in New -England. This town of Truro has been described as "a village where its -able-bodied men are all ploughing the ocean together as a common -field," while in North Truro "the women and girls may sit at their -doors and see where their husbands and brothers are harvesting their -mackerel fifteen to twenty miles off on the sea, with hundreds of -white harvest-wagons." Here, upon the high hill making the ocean -shore, where the headland curves from north around to the west, is the -guardian beacon of Cape Cod, the lofty Highland Light, forty-one miles -southeast of Boston Light, and whose powerful white rays shine for -twenty miles over the ocean without, and the bay within. The tower -stands on a hill one hundred and forty-two feet high, and the light is -elevated nearly two hundred feet. Along here Thoreau walked on the -"sand-bar in the midst of the sea," and as he gazed far over the -ocean, thus reflected: "The nearest beach to us on the east was on the -coast of Galicia in Spain, whose capital is Santiago, though by old -poets' reckoning it should have been Atlantis, or the Hesperides; but -Heaven is found to be farther west now. At first we were abreast of -that part of Portugal _entre Douro e Mino_, and then Galicia and the -port of Pontevedro opened to us as we walked along, but we did not -enter, the breakers ran so high. The bold headland of Cape Finisterre, -a little north of east, jutted toward us next with its vain brag; for -we flung back 'Here is Cape Cod, Cape Land's Beginning.' A little -indentation toward the north--for the land loomed to our imaginations -like a common mirage--we knew was the Bay of Biscay, and we sang, -'There we lay, till next day, in the Bay of Biscay, O!' A little south -of east was Palos, where Columbus weighed anchor, and further yet the -pillars which Hercules set up." - - -THE PURITAN COMPACT. - -At the extremity of Cape Cod is Provincetown, among the sand dunes, a -town with about forty-five hundred inhabitants, encircling the harbor -on its western verge, a long, narrow settlement between the high white -sand-hills and the beach. There are two main streets, one along the -beach and the other parallel to it back among the hills. Upon the -highest hill is the Town Hall, the mariner's landmark entering the -harbor, and from it are good views over ocean and bay, displaying the -curious end of the Cape sweeping grandly around and enclosing the -spacious harbor with room enough for anchoring an enormous fleet. To -the west and south is the great bended hook having Race Point on its -northwesterly verge and a lighthouse on the southern termination, -whence a tongue of beach juts over towards Truro. This is a haven for -many fishermen, and the people, who are among the purest descendants -of the original Puritans, devote their energies largely to catching -mackerel and cod, curing and stacking the fish all around the bay. The -first appearance of Provincetown in history was when the "Mayflower" -entered the harbor with the Pilgrims in November, 1620. Cape Cod was -the first land they saw after leaving the English Channel, then not -bare as now, but wooded down to the shore. They anchored in the bay, -and the men were forced to wade "a bow-shoot" to the shore to make a -landing, and it was this wading and subsequent exposure which gave -them the colds and sickness resulting in the deaths of so many during -the subsequent winter. It is recorded that upon Monday, November 23, -1620, the women went ashore to wash, and thus they inaugurated that -universal institution which has extended all over the country, the -great American Monday washing-day. It was while anchored in -Provincetown harbor the Pilgrims framed and signed the celebrated -Puritan Compact, so long ruling Plymouth, which is regarded as the -foundation of constitutional government. John Quincy Adams said of it: -"This is perhaps the only instance in human history of that positive -original social compact which speculative philosophers imagined as the -only legitimate source of government." It was signed by forty-one -Pilgrims, of whom twenty-one died during the ensuing four months. It -reads: - -"In the name of God, amen. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal -subjects of our direct sovereign lord King James, by the grace of God, -of Great Britain, France and Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith, -etc., having undertaken, for the glory of God and advancement of the -Christian faith and honor of our King and country, a voyage to plant -the first colony in the northern parts of Virginia, do by these -presents solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and of one -another, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body -politic, for our better ordering and preservation, and furtherance of -the ends aforesaid; and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute and -frame such just and equal laws, ordinances, acts, constitutions and -offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most meet and -expedient for the general good of the colony; unto which we promise -all due submission and obedience. In witness whereof, we have -hereunder inscribed our names at Cape Cod, the 11th day of November -(old style), in the year of the reign of our sovereign lord King -James, of England, France and Ireland, the 18th, and of Scotland, the -54th, Anno Domini, 1620." - -Provincetown was a long time afterwards started, and began with a few -fishermen's huts, which grew in the eighteenth century to a small -village with extensive fish-drying flakes. The people top-dressed the -soft sands with clay, shells and pebble, thus making the streets. -There are relics of wrecks all about the extremity of the Cape, and it -has had a sad history, though now, being better lighted and having -life-saving stations, these terrible disasters are rare. The town has -become an attractive summer resort, and has quite a development of -pleasant homes. The visitor mounts High Pole Hill to get the view, and -all around it is over the sea, for, gaze whither one may as the winds -blow freshly across the Cape, the scene is of dazzling white sand or -deeply blue water. - - -APPROACHING MASSACHUSETTS BAY. - -From Plymouth Harbor northward to Massachusetts Bay is but a short -distance. Inland from the coast-line the land rises into the noted -"Blue Hills of Milton," their highest dome-like summit elevated six -hundred and fifty feet and surmounted by an Observatory. These are -granite hills, having the picturesque town of Quincy stretching down -to the sea, with a broad fringe of salt marshes in front. Thus are -named the "Quincy granites," famous for building, and it was to get -these huge stones out that the earliest rude railway in New England -was constructed in 1826, a line three miles long to Neponset River, -the cars being drawn by horses. It is said by the geologists that -these hills of Milton are an older formation than the Alps, and their -earliest English name, designated by King Charles I., was the Cheviot -Hills. Among the salt marshes just north of Duxbury is Marshfield, the -home of Daniel Webster, whose remains lie in an ancient graveyard on -an ocean-viewing hill not far away. Beside him are the graves of his -sons--Edward, killed in the Mexican War, and Fletcher, killed at Bull -Run in the Civil War. An ornamental villa has replaced his old house, -which was burnt, and the homestead has gone to strangers. Close by -Webster's is the grave of the early Pilgrim Governor Winslow, whose -quaint old dwelling is near. Quincy is famous as the home of the -greatest families of the original colony of Massachusetts Bay--Quincy -and Adams. The antique church of Quincy, known as the Adams Temple, -has in the yard the graves of the two Presidents Adams, father and -son. John Hancock, whose bold signature leads the Congress in the -Declaration of Independence, was a native of Quincy. It was among the -earliest Massachusetts settlements, having been colonized by a number -of Episcopalians at Merry Mount, who were such jovial people that the -strict Puritans of Plymouth were aghast at their goings on, and sent -Miles Standish with the whole army against them, and capturing the -leaders shipped them prisoners back to England. This severe treatment -was administered a second time before they were subdued. Thomas -Morton, who was among those twice banished, wrote the _New England -Canaan_, giving this curious account of the aborigines: "The Indians -may be rather accompted as living richly, wanting nothing that is -needful, and to be commended for leading a contented life, the younger -being ruled by the elder and the elder ruled by the Powahs, and the -Powahs are ruled by the Devill; and then you may imagine what good -rule is like to be amongst them." This theory was generally prevalent -among the early colonists, for Cotton Mather was convinced that "the -Indians are under the special protection of the Devill." - -The coast, as Massachusetts Bay is approached, rises into the rocky -shores of Scituate and Cohasset. Here is the dangerous reef of Minot's -Ledge in the offing, guarded by the leading beacon of the New England -waters, about four miles from the shore. The original lighthouse was -washed away in a terrific storm in April, 1851. The catastrophe -occurred in the night, when those on shore heard a violent tolling of -the lighthouse bell, and in the morning the tower was gone, with all -the light keepers, the only relic being a chair washed ashore, which -was recognized as one that had been in the watch-room of the tower. -Scituate was the birthplace of Samuel Woodworth, author of the _Old -Oaken Bucket_. These shores are all lined with villas and attractive -coast resorts, and the noted Jerusalem Road is the chief highway of -Cohasset, following the coast-line around to the westward. Here -projects the narrow and strange peninsula of Nantasket Beach, five -miles out into the sea to Point Allerton, then hooking around and -terminating in the town of Hull, and making one of the most popular -seaside resorts of Bostonians. Farther to the westward, behind it, is -Hingham Harbor, the quaint old village of Hingham on its shores, -settled in 1635, having the oldest occupied church in New England, -dating from 1681. This most ancient church of Yankeedom is a square -building of the colonial style, its steep roof sloping up on all four -sides to a platform at the top surrounded by a balustrade and -surmounted by a little pointed belfry. Still farther westward, and -within the entrance to Boston Harbor, projects the bold bluff of -Squantum, thrust out into the bay, it having been named in memory of -the old sachem who ruled all the country round about when Boston was -first colonized, his home being on an adjacent hill. Sturdy old -Squantum was a firm friend of the colonists, and when he was dying he -besought Governor Bradford to pray for him, "that he might go to the -Englishman's God in Heaven." - - -THE CITY OF BOSTON. - -The approach to the New England metropolis, especially by way of the -harbor, is fine. The city rises gradually ridge above ridge, until the -centre culminates in Beacon Hill, surmounted by the bright gilded dome -and lantern-top of the Massachusetts State House. From all sides the -land, with its varied surfaces of hill and vale, slopes down towards -the water courses, leading into the deep indentation of Boston Harbor. -The pear-shaped peninsula, forming the original town, was the Indian -Shawmut, or the "sweet waters," a name reproduced in many ways in the -modern city. William Blackstone, the recluse Anglican clergyman of -London who could not get on there with the "Lords Bishops" and -emigrated, was the first white inhabitant of Shawmut, coming in 1623. -Governor John Winthrop, of the Massachusetts colony, who came out in -1630 to Salem, removed to Shawmut the same year with Thomas Dudley -and a number of Puritans, crossing over from Charlestown in a search -for good water, which led them to select this place, which, from its -three hills, they called the Tri-mountain, since shortened into -Tremont. Blackstone, having lived there in solitude for several years, -soon tired of having such near neighbors, and in 1634 he sold out the -whole town site to them for about $150, and being disgusted with these -"Lords Brethren," as he had previously been with the "Lords Bishops," -avoided controversy by going farther into the wilderness. Winthrop and -Dudley had come originally from Boston in England, and making this the -capital of the Massachusetts colony, they gave it that name. The -English Boston in Lincolnshire grew around the monastery of the Saxon -St. Botolph, established in the seventh century, and hence its name of -Botolph's Town, which has been condensed into Boston. Some years ago -the English Bostonians presented a Gothic window from the ruins of old -St. Botolph's to Trinity Episcopal Church in Boston. When this -Massachusetts colony was originally established, one of Winthrop's -depressed companions, writing home, described Shawmut as "a hideous -wilderness possessed by barbarous Indians, very cold, sickly, rocky, -barren, unfit for culture, and like to keep the people miserable." Yet -the settlement grew, and, as an early historian says, "Philadelphia -was a forest and New York was an insignificant village long after its -rival, Boston, had become a great commercial town." In 1663 an -English visitor, describing the place, wrote that "the buildings are -handsome, joining one to the other, as in London, with many large -streets, most of them paved with pebble-stones. In the high street -toward the Common there are faire houses, some of stone." The young -colony encouraged commerce and became possessed of many ships, the -earliest built at Boston being the bark "Blessing of the Bay" of -thirty tons, a noted vessel belonging to Governor Winthrop, and -considered a wonder in her time. The first solid wharf was built in -1673. It was Governor Winthrop who put into one of his official -messages this chunk of wisdom: "The best part of a community is always -the least, and of that part the wiser are still less." Anterior to the -Revolution, Boston was the largest and most important American city, -then having twenty-five thousand inhabitants. - -Boston Harbor covers about seventy-five square miles, having various -arms, such as South Boston Bay and Dorchester Bay, and the estuaries -of the Charles, Mystic and Neponset Rivers, which enlarge the -landing-spaces. The outer harbor has great natural beauty, increased -by the improvements and adornments of buildings, the water surface -gradually narrowing towards the city, and dotted with craggy, -undulating islands, having long stretches of bordering beaches, -interspersed with jutting cliffs, broad and bold promontories, and -both low and lofty shores. The adjacent coasts are lined with -villages that gradually merge into the suburbs of the great city. In -this spacious harbor there are at least fifty large and small islands, -and most of these, which were bare in Winthrop's day, are now crowned -with forts, lighthouses, almshouses, hospitals and other civic -institutions, several being most striking edifices, giving a pleasing -variety to the scene. The splendid guiding beacon for the harbor -entrance stands upon Little Brewster or Lighthouse Island, at the -northern edge of Nantasket Roads. This is Boston Light, elevated about -one hundred feet, a revolving light visible sixteen miles. George's -Island, near the entrance and commanding the approach from the sea, -has upon it the chief defensive work of the harbor, Fort Warren, about -two miles west of Boston Light. Farther in, and near the city, off -South Boston, is Castle Island, with Fort Independence, the successor -of the earliest Boston fort, the "Castle," built by Winthrop in 1634. -Opposite and about one mile northward is Governor's Island, containing -Fort Winthrop. This island was originally the "Governor's garden," and -Winthrop paid a yearly rent of two bushels of apples for it. These -forts are nearly all constructed of Quincy granite, but none has seen -actual warfare. Long Island spreads its high crags across the harbor, -outside of the inner forts, and has a lighthouse on its northern end, -while to the eastward is a low, rocky islet, bearing as a warning to -the mariner a curious stone monument, known as Nix's Mate. It was -here the colonists used to hang the pirates caught on the New England -coasts. Upon Deer and Rainsford Islands are hospitals and -reformatories, and upon Thompson's Island, which is fantastically -shaped like an unfledged chicken, is an asylum and farm-school for -indigent boys. Spectacle, Half Moon and Apple Islands received their -names from their shapes. - -At the inward, western extremity of the harbor is the pear-shaped -Shawmut peninsula of Boston, having water ways almost all around it. -Upon the one side is South Boston and upon the other Charlestown, the -comparatively narrow intervening water courses of Fort Point Channel -and Charles River being in parts nearly roofed over with bridges, that -grudgingly open their draws to let through the vessels laden with -lumber and coal. To the northeast, upon another peninsula, which -formerly was an island, is East Boston, having Chelsea beyond to the -northward. Towards the west, across the broadened estuary of Charles -River, is Cambridge, this part of the estuary known as the Back Bay -having been largely encroached upon to create more land for the -crowded and spreading city. To the southward are Roxbury and -Dorchester, and to the westward Brookline, Brighton and Somerville. -Upon the Shawmut peninsula, the original city of Boston covered only -seven hundred and eighty-three acres, but by the reclamations this has -been more than doubled. It absorbed Dorchester Neck to enlarge South -Boston; took in Noddle's Island for East Boston; and annexed about all -the other suburbs, so that the city now covers forty-three square -miles. The hills have been partly levelled and the whole face of the -ancient town altered, these improvements and the great changes wrought -by fires obliterating the older narrow and crooked streets, having -thus wrought a complete transformation. The alignments of the colonial -maps can now hardly be recognized, and scarcely a vestige, beyond the -three old burying-grounds and a few buildings, remains of primitive -Boston. When the first settlers coming from Charlestown saw Shawmut or -the Tri-mountain, it seemed to chiefly consist of the three high hills -which they called Copp's, Beacon and Fort Hills, the highest of these, -the Beacon, being itself a sort of tri-mountain, having three -well-developed surmounting little peaks. These, however, were -afterwards cut down, although the massive elevation of Beacon Hill, -whereon the colonists burnt their signal-fires, remains the crowning -glory of the peninsula. - - -BOSTON COMMON. - -The city of Boston has a population of six hundred thousand, and the -centre around which it clusters is the well-known Boston Common, set -apart in 1634, and always jealously reserved for public uses, the -surface rising upon its northern verge towards Beacon Hill. No matter -by what route approached, the city has the appearance of a broad cone -with a wide-spreading base, ascending gradually to the bulb-like apex -of the gilded State House dome. Occasionally a tall building looms -above the mass, or it is surmounted by church-spires and the fanciful -towers of modern construction, or by a high chimney pouring out black -smoke; but it is a symmetrical scene in the general view, though in -many parts the surface of the actual city is very uneven. The Common -rises towards the State House from the south and west by a graceful -plane interspersed with hillocks. It is crossed by many pleasant -walks, and has broad open spaces used for sports and military -displays. It is rich in noble old trees, and covers nearly fifty -acres, while to the westward is an additional level park of half the -size, known as the Public Garden, separated by a wide street -accommodating the cross-town traffic. This noted Boston Common was the -ancient Puritan pasture-ground, and it is rich in traditions. In the -colonial wars, the captured hostile Indians were put to death here, -their grinning heads impaled on stakes for a public warning. Murderers -were gibbeted, witches burnt and duels fought here. The impassioned -George Whitefield, in the middle of the eighteenth century, preached -here to a congregation of twenty thousand. An English traveller in the -late seventeenth century described the place as "a small but pleasant -Common where the gallants, a little before sunset, walk with their -marmalet-madams till the bell at nine o'clock rings them home." -Sometimes it was a fortified camp, and it was always a pleasure-ground, -while during the great fire of 1872, which destroyed the chief -business section with property valued at $70,000,000, enormous piles -of hastily saved goods filled the eastern portions next to Tremont -Street, bounding it on that side. Beacon Street is the northern border -and Boylston Street the southern, there being rows of stately elms -upon the walks along these streets and the pathways leading across the -Common in various directions. - -Flagstaff Hill, the most prominent eminence, near the centre of the -Common, is surmounted by the Soldiers' Monument, rising ninety feet, -with a colossal statue of America on the apex, overlooking the city. -It was designed by Milmore, and is one of the most imposing memorials -of the Civil War in the country. Nearby stood the "Old Elm," which was -much older than the city, and was blown down in 1876. The adjacent -sheet of water is the noted "Frog Pond" of colonial memory, and dear -to the hearts of all old Bostonians. Near the northeastern boundary -the Brewer Fountain, famous for its magnificent bronzes, the -munificent gift of a prominent citizen, pours out its limpid waters. A -colossal equestrian statue of Washington adorns the Public Garden. -These attractive grounds are additionally embellished by tasteful -little lakes, statues and lovely floral displays. On the southern side -of the Common is the old Central Burying-Ground, which contains the -grave of Gilbert Stuart, the portrait painter, who died in 1828. -Beneath the edge of the Common on the southern and eastern sides is -the great Subway, which crosses Boston, giving needed relief to the -congested traffic, and was completed in 1898 at a cost of nearly -$5,000,000, a most commodious, airy and well-lighted tunnel, -accommodating many lines of electric cars, and providing speedy -transit across the crowded city. - - -THE STATE HOUSE. - -The famous Boston State House, fronting on Beacon Street at the summit -of the hill, stands upon ground which, in the eighteenth century, was -John Hancock's cow-pasture, his residence, for many years alongside, -having been replaced by the ornamental "swell-fronts" of the Somerset -Club. This rounded construction, known as the swell-front, is a -distinctive feature of the old-time Boston residential architecture, -and in many buildings the effect is heightened by the luxuriant -overrunning vines of the Boston ivy, which is especially fine in the -autumn. A Corinthian portico fronts the State House, which was built -about the beginning of the nineteenth century, but has since been -repeatedly enlarged, the latest extension being completed in 1898, so -that the whole building is now four hundred by two hundred and twelve -feet, the lantern on the dome rising one hundred and fifty feet. Upon -the terrace in front are statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann. -The eastern side of the last extension has a small park, and here, on -top of Beacon Hill, has been erected a reproduction, practically on -the original site, of the Beacon Monument, which was put there in 1790 -to commemorate the success of the Revolution, but was removed in 1812. -Within the State House is the Memorial Hall, containing the -battle-flags of Massachusetts regiments and other historical relics. -Portraits, busts and statues of the great men of Massachusetts adorn -the interior rooms. From the lantern surmounting the dome is the -finest view of Boston, with the mass of estuaries penetrating the land -on all sides, the harbor and islands, and over the neighboring country -for many miles. In the Representatives' Chamber hangs, high on the -wall, one of the precious relics of the Old Bay State, the noted -carved codfish, typifying a great industry. In the original State -House preceding this one, down on Washington Street, in the heart of -the older town, on March 17, 1785, Representative Rowe--who is also -said to have been the suggester of throwing the tea overboard in -Boston harbor--according to the minutes moved, "That leave might be -given to hang up the representation of a codfish in the room where the -House sit, as a memorial of the importance of the cod-fishery to the -welfare of the Commonwealth, as had been usual formerly." Leave was -accordingly given, and this emblem was brought in time to the present -State House and hung on the wall, and it has always been an object of -interest to visitors, not only as emblematic of sundry fishery -problems that perplex the statesmen, but also as recalling a question -always of lively interest in New England and elsewhere, "Does the -codfish salt the ocean, or the ocean salt the codfish?" Another great -treasure is held by the State Library, which has a hundred thousand -volumes; and the chief of its possessions, exhibited under glass, is -the "History of the Plimouth Plantation," popularly known as the "Log -of the 'Mayflower,'" written by Governor William Bradford. This -manuscript, discovered in London in 1846, was presented to -Massachusetts in 1898. - - -NOTABLE BOSTON ATTRACTIONS. - -A ramble through the older parts of Boston discloses many objects of -interest. Near the northern edge of the Common, at the corner of Park -and Tremont Streets, is the old "Brimstone Corner," where stands the -citadel of orthodoxy, the Puritan meeting-house, Park Street Church. -Adjoining is an ancient graveyard, the "Old Granary Burying-Ground," -where lie the remains of some of the most famous men of Boston, John -Hancock, Samuel Adams, Paul Revere, James Otis, Peter Faneuil, many of -the colonial Governors, and also the parents of Benjamin Franklin, a -prominent monument marking the graves of the latter. The rows of -ancient, dark-looking and half-effaced gravestones in this quiet -burial-place, in one of the busiest parts of the city, are an antique -novelty. Many noted buildings are near it--Tremont Temple, the -Horticultural and Music Halls, the Athenæum, and not far away, -fronting Pemberton Square, the massive County Court-house of granite -in Renaissance style, four hundred and fifty feet long, having in its -imposing central hall a statue of Rufus Choate. On Tremont Street was -established the first Episcopal Church in Boston, the King's Chapel, -the present building replacing the original one in 1754. Adjacent is -the oldest burying-place of the colony, where lie the remains of -Governor John Winthrop and his sons, with other early settlers. Most -of the old gravestones in this yard have been taken away from the -graves and reset in strange fashion as edge-stones along the paths. -One of these odd old stones of a greenish hue marked the grave of -William Paddy, dying in 1658. In an unique poetical effusion it -records these quaint words: - - "Hear sleaps that blessed one - Whoes lief God help us all - To live that so when tiem shall be - That we this world must liue, - We ever may be happy - With blessed William Paddy." - -Adjoining this old-time region is the splendid City Hall, grandly -rising beyond the graveyard, in Italian Renaissance, with an imposing -louvre dome. In front, upon School Street, are statues of Benjamin -Franklin and Josiah Quincy. - -Various intricate streets and passages lead eastward from Tremont -Street into Washington Street, these two chief business highways in a -certain sense being parallel. Washington Street is the main -thoroughfare of the city, having prominent theatres, newspaper -offices, many of the largest stores and great office buildings, and it -finally crosses over into the South End, being a wider and straighter -street in this newer portion. Benjamin Franklin was born in a little -old dwelling near Washington Street, where now stands a newspaper -office. Alongside is the "Old South Church," the most famous church of -Boston, but now an historical relic and museum of Revolutionary -antiquities, the congregation having built themselves a magnificent -temple, the "New Old South Church," upon Boylston Street, in the -fashionable quarter of the Back Bay. This ancient church is a curious -edifice of colonial style, built in 1729, when it replaced an earlier -building. It has a tall spire and a clock, to which it is said more -eyes are upturned than to any other dial in New England. The interior -is square, with double galleries on the ends, and its original -condition has been entirely restored. It is brimful of history, and -was the colonial shrine of Boston, wherein were held the spirited -meetings of the exciting days that hatched the Revolution. Within it -were arranged the preliminaries leading to the march from its doors of -the party of disguised men who went down to the Liverpool wharf and -threw the tea overboard in December, 1773. Behind the pulpit is the -famous window through which climbed Dr. Joseph Warren in 1775 to make -the oration on the anniversary of the "Boston Massacre," that had so -much to do with creating the high condition of feeling producing the -final defiance of the British soldiery, culminating in the battle of -Lexington. The British afterwards turned the building into a -riding-school. Franklin was baptized in the original church, and here -Whitefield preached. For nearly two centuries there was delivered, in -this noted church, the annual "election sermon" before the Governor -and Legislature. It was only by the greatest exertions that the -venerable building was saved from the fire of 1872, which halted at -its edge. It now belongs to a patriotic society, who maintain it as a -precious historical relic. - -Also fronting upon Washington Street is the "Old State House," an -oblong and unpretending building at the head of State Street, dating -from 1748, which was the headquarters of the Massachusetts Provincial -Government. The "Boston Massacre," in March, 1770, originating in an -encounter between a British sentry and the crowd, resulting in the -troops firing upon the populace, occurred in the street on its -eastern side. Afterwards Samuel Adams, voicing the public -indignation, made within the building, in an address to the Executive -Council, his memorable and successful demand that the British soldiery -should be removed outside the city. It has been restored as far as -possible to its original condition, even the figures of the British -"Lion and Unicorn," which had been taken down in Revolutionary days, -having been replaced on the wings of the roof over the southern front. -The upper rooms contain a valuable collection of relics and paintings, -and much that is of interest in connection with early Boston history. -Opposite are the tall Ames and Sears Buildings of modern construction, -while State Street extends northeast through the financial district to -the harbor, passing the massive granite dome-surmounted Custom House. - -Dock Square is not far away, and Change Alley and other intricate -passages lead over to the Boston "Cradle of Liberty," Faneuil Hall. -Old Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, built it for a market and -presented it to the city in 1742, but it was unfortunately burnt, -being rebuilt in 1761. Within it were held the early town-meetings, -and it is still the great place for popular assemblages. It was -enlarged to its present size in 1805. This famous Hall is a plain -rectangular building, seventy-six feet square inside, the lower floor -a market, and the upper portion an assembly room. It is located, with -surmounting cupola, in an open square, and when anything excites the -public it is crowded with standing audiences, there being no seats. -Across the end is a raised platform for the orators, behind which, on -the wall, is Healy's large painting, representing the United States -Senate listening to a speech by Daniel Webster, his noted oration in -the South Carolina nullification days of 1832, when Webster was the -champion of the Union. There are numerous historical portraits on the -walls. The "Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company," dating from -1638, occupy the floor above the Hall, while in front of it and -extending towards the harbor is the spacious Quincy Market. - -At the corner of Washington and School Streets is another ancient -building, its quaint gambrels and gables recalling primitive -architecture--the "Old Corner Book-store," long a favorite literary -haunt. Northward, Washington Street extends to Haymarket Square, and -beyond is Charlestown Street, passing by Copp's Hill, now reduced in -size. Upon this hill is the oldest Boston church,--Christ Church in -Salem Street,--dating from 1723, from whose steeple, on the eve of the -battle of Lexington, in April, 1775, were displayed the lights giving -warning of the movement of the British troops starting from Boston for -Concord. These signals notified Paul Revere, across the Charles River, -who made his famous midnight ride that roused the country. The -silver-plate, service-books and Bible of the church were gifts from -King George II., and in the adjacent burial-ground are the graves -of the three noted Doctors Mather, who had so much to do with colonial -affairs and history--Increase, Cotton and Samuel--the last dying in -1785. The great Boston fire of 1872, which ravaged the district east -of Washington Street for two days, extended over fifty acres, and -destroyed nearly eight hundred buildings. The section was quickly -rebuilt, however, with much finer structures, and is now the chief -wholesale business district of Boston. The elaborate Government -Building, containing the Post-office and Courts, was erected, since -the fire, of Cape Ann granite, at a cost of $7,500,000. In this -district are enormous office-buildings, insurance-offices, banks, -extensive blocks of stores, and the headquarters of the leading trades -of New England, the boot and shoe, cotton and woollen, dry goods, -paper and wool merchants, Boston being the greatest wool mart in the -country. When Boston, having preserved Beacon Hill and reduced in size -Copp's Hill, decided to remove the third eminence of the -"Tri-mountain," Fort Hill, its earth and rocks were used to give -better commercial facilities by filling in and grading the magnificent -marginal highway fronting the harbor, Atlantic Avenue. In front of -this broad street the wharves project many hundreds of feet, having -rows of capacious storehouses in their centres, while on either side -are wide docks for the shipping. Here is conducted an extensive -traffic with all parts of the world, and to these wharves come the -yacht-like fishing-smacks to unload their catch of cod and mackerel, -while there are piles of fish in the stores. Thus is realized the -significance of the emblematic codfish hanging in the State House. - - [Illustration: _Faneuil Hall, Boston_] - - -BOSTON DEVELOPMENT. - -When the great Boston fire had been quenched, and an estimate was -being formed of the enormous losses, the significant statement was -made that "the best treasure of Boston cannot be burnt up. Her grand -capital of culture and character, of science and skill, humanity and -religion, is beyond the reach of flame. Sweep away every store and -house, every school and church, and let the people with their history -and habits remain, and they still have one of the richest and -strongest cities on earth." This is the prominent characteristic of -Boston public spirit. The people take the greatest pride in their -city, its high rank and achievements, and the wealthy and energetic -townsfolk are always alert to extend them. There are more libraries, -schools, colleges, art and scientific collections, museums, -conservatories of music and educational foundations in and near Boston -than in any other American city. Magnificent structures, the homes of -art, science and education, are scattered with prodigality all about. -Next to the Library of Congress, the Boston Public Library is the -largest in America. Bostonians love the fine arts, and the many open -spaces and public grounds are adorned with statues of eminent men and -groups representing historical events. The people seem to be always -studying and investigating, the women as well as the men pursuing the -difficult paths of abstruse knowledge, so that armies of them, fully -equipped, scatter over the country to impart the learning of the -"Modern Athens" to less fortunate communities. There are many fine -churches, especially in the newer parts of the West End, whither have -removed into grand temples of modern artistic construction quite a -number of the wealthy congregations of the older town. Boston is also -full of clubs, in endless variety, formed for every conceivable -purpose, and several of them very handsomely housed. - -To get available room and facilitate business, the city has gathered -the terminals of all the railways into two enormous stations on the -northern and southern sides of the town, and for nearly a half century -it has been filling-in the fens and lowlands to the westward, so that -now this reclaimed West End is the fashionable section, containing the -finest churches, hotels, and residences. Through this splendid -district extends for over a mile the grand Commonwealth Avenue, two -hundred and forty feet wide, its centre being a tree-embowered park -adorned by statues of Alexander Hamilton, John Glover, William Lloyd -Garrison, and Leif Ericson, and having on either side a magnificent -boulevard. The bordering residences are fronted by delicious gardens, -and at regular intervals fine streets cross at right angles, their -names arranged alphabetically, in proceeding westward, with the -well-known English titles, Arlington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, -Exeter, Fairfield, Gloucester, Hereford, etc. Parallel to the Avenue -are also laid out Boylston, Marlborough, Newbury and Beacon Streets -through this favorite residential section. Proceeding out Boylston -Street are passed the stately buildings of the Museum of Natural -History, and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, with twelve -hundred students, the leading institution of its kind in America. -Beyond, at the intersection of Dartmouth Street, is Copley Square, -displaying around it the finest architectural group in the city, five -magnificent buildings, three of them churches. Trinity Episcopal -Church, built on the northern side, in free Romanesque, is formed as a -Latin cross, with a massive central tower, two hundred and ten feet -high. It has elaborate interior decoration and fine windows. The -Public Library, on the southern side, is in Roman Renaissance, two -hundred and twenty-eight by two hundred and twenty-five feet, and -sixty-eight feet high, erected at a cost of nearly $2,400,000. It -contains eight hundred thousand volumes, and the interior is -excellently adapted to its uses, being tastefully adorned. The Second -Unitarian Church, on the northern side of the square, built in 1874, -was the church of the three Mathers, and of Ralph Waldo Emerson. The -Museum of Fine Arts, on the eastern side of the square, is constructed -of red brick and terra-cotta, and contains extensive collections. The -fifth building fronting the square is the "New Old South Church," in -Italian Gothic, with a tower rising two hundred and forty-eight feet. - -Beyond this fashionable district, the "Back Bay Fens" have been -skillfully laid out in a series of boulevards and parks, making a -chain extending several miles south and southwest through the suburbs, -Franklin Park, covering nearly a square mile, being the chief. Here, -on grounds with great natural adornments, in Roxbury, Brookline, and -Brighton, is a region of much beauty. The surface is undulating, -finely wooded, dotted with lakes, and displaying many costly suburban -houses, in full glory of garden and foliage. This pleasant region -spreads to Chestnut Hill, where the city has its great water -reservoir, holding eight hundred million gallons, the favorite drive -from Boston being to and around this reservoir, the route giving -splendid views from the hilltop. Jamaica Pond and Jamaica Plain are -near by, two of Boston's attractive cemeteries being beyond the -latter, Mount Hope and Forest Hills. Here is also the famous Arnold -Arboretum, the greatest institution of its kind, now part of the park -system, and having a grand outlook from its central hill. In West -Roxbury is the Martin Luther Orphan Home, which now occupies the noted -"Brook Farm," where a group of cultivated people, led by George -Ripley, and including Hawthorne, Curtis, Dana, Channing, Thoreau, -Emerson, and Margaret Fuller, made their famous attempt to found a -socialistic community in 1841, but found that it would not work. It -was described as an experiment in "plain living and high thinking," -the articles of association calling it the "Brook Farm Institute of -Agriculture and Education," for the establishment of an "agricultural, -literary, and scientific school or college." Pupils were taken, and in -its most successful period there were about one hundred and fifty -persons in the community; "kitchen and table were in common; very -little help was hired, but philosophers, clergymen and poets worked at -the humblest tasks, milking cows, pitching manure, cleaning stables, -etc., while cultivated women cooked, washed, ironed, and waited at -table; all work, manual or intellectual, was credited to members at a -uniform rate of ten cents an hour." Later, it became a Fourieristic -"phalanstery," under the title of the "Brook Farm Phalanx;" then, in -1845, the chief building burnt down, and financial difficulties -following, the experiment, which had excited world-wide comment, was -abandoned in 1847. - - -NONATUM AND SUDBURY. - -To the westward of Brighton is the extensive and wealthy suburban city -of Newton, a favorite place of rural residence for Bostonians. Here -rises, near Newton Corner, the ancient Nonatum Hill, where the -Apostle Eliot first preached to the Indians, the name being now -classically modernized into Mount Ida. Eliot converted these Indians, -who became the Christian tribe of Nonatum and formed their system of -government after the plan set forth in the Book of Exodus, with rulers -of hundreds, of fifties, and of tens. For them the Bible was -translated into the Indian language by Eliot and printed at Cambridge -in 1663. They removed nearer to Charles River, where there were better -soils, at Natick, their village consisting of three streets lined with -little huts and gardens, a large circular fort, and a building for a -church and school, at the same time having a rude bridge constructed -over the river. Natick is now a busy shoemaking town, with about ten -thousand people, and in South Natick is the old Indian cemetery and -Eliot's Oak. To the northward of Natick is Cochituate Lake, the chief -source of Boston's water supply, over three miles long, and having -with tributary ponds nearly a thousand acres area when full of water -in the spring. To the eastward of Natick is Wellesley, where the -famous Wellesley Female College, with seven hundred students, has its -spacious buildings located in a beautiful park. To the northward is -the valley of Sudbury River, into which Lake Cochituate discharges, -and here at Sudbury was the old colonial tavern which Longfellow has -given renown in his "Tales of a Wayside Inn": - - "One autumn night in Sudbury town, - Across the meadows bare and brown, - The windows of the wayside inn - Gleamed red with firelight through the leaves - Of woodbine hanging from the eaves - Their crimson curtains rent and thin. - - "As ancient is this hostelrie - As any in the land may be. - Built in the old Colonial day, - When men lived in a grander way, - With ampler hospitality. - A kind of old Hobgoblin Hall, - Now somewhat fallen to decay, - With weather stains upon the wall, - And stairways worn, and crazy doors, - And creaking and uneven floors, - And chimneys huge, and tiled and tall. - - "A region of repose it seems, - A place of slumber and of dreams, - Remote among the wooded hills!" - -Here Longfellow located his modern Canterbury tales by the landlord, -the student, the theologian, the poet, the musician, and other -sojourners, which have become interwoven so attractively with our -better American literature. - - -CHARLESTOWN AND BUNKER HILL. - -Across the Charles River, northward from the Shawmut peninsula of -Boston, is Charlestown, one of the earliest settled suburbs, a large -part of the river front being occupied by the Navy Yard, which covers -a surface approximating a hundred acres. Here were built many famous -vessels of the older navy, anterior to the change to steel -construction, and the first Government dry-dock in the country was -placed at this yard, which after the war of 1812 became one of the -leading naval stations. Among the historical features of the yard has -been the famous ship "Constitution," familiarly known as "Old -Ironsides," which is again to be rebuilt for preservation. This noted -ship, with others that achieved renown in the war of 1812, was kept at -Charlestown, and all of them having rotted, the Navy Department in -1830 decided to destroy them so as to save further trouble, and an -article announcing this appeared in a Boston newspaper. Little did the -naval authorities, however, appreciate the sentimental love the -country had for the old "Constitution." Two days after the newspaper -announcement, Oliver Wendell Holmes, then twenty-one years of age, -published his poem of "Old Ironsides," which caused such a sensation. - - "Aye, tear her tattered ensign down! - Long has it waved on high, - And many an eye has danced to see - That banner in the sky; - Beneath it rung the battle's shout, - And burst the cannon's roar;-- - The meteor of the ocean's air - Shall sweep the land no more. - - "Her deck--once red with heroes' blood, - Where knelt the vanquished foe, - When winds were hurrying o'er the flood, - And waves were white below-- - No more shall feel the victor's tread, - Or know the conquered knee;-- - The harpies of the shore shall pluck - The eagle of the sea! - - "O, better that her shattered hulk - Should sink beneath the wave; - Her thunders shook the mighty deep, - And there should be her grave: - Nail to the mast her holy flag, - Set every threadbare sail; - And give her to the god of storms, - The lightning and the gale!" - -These stirring lines of earnest protest touched the popular heart, -there was an universal outburst of indignation, and the "Constitution" -was saved. The old ship was rebuilt on her original lines, only a few -timbers, including the keel, being retained, and the former -allegorical figure-head was replaced by one modelled in the image of -Andrew Jackson, then President of the United States. This change was -sanctioned by the Secretary of the Navy, although Commodore Hull, who -had charge of rebuilding the ship, protested against it. The -reconstructed "Constitution" was launched in 1834, and anchored, with -her figure-head, but a short distance from Charlestown bridge. -Politics ran high at the time, and the change caused great -controversy, particularly in and around Boston. One stormy night, -Captain Samuel W. Dewey, then a hardy young sailor, managed without -discovery to saw off Jackson's head, and carried it away. When the -mutilation was disclosed next day there was another great clamor, and -so intense was the excitement that the utmost exertions were vainly -made to find the man who did the daring deed. Dewey kept his secret -for several weeks, but suddenly, under an unexplainable impulse, -decided he would go to Washington and give the sawed-off head to -President Jackson himself. He appeared before the Secretary of the -Navy, and stating that he was the man who had removed the figure-head -from the "Constitution," said he had brought it along to restore it, -exhibiting the grim features tied up in a bandana handkerchief. The -Secretary was indignant, and spoke of having him arrested, but Dewey -said there was no statute that he had violated, and the Secretary, -calming down finally, listened to the man's story of how he took away -the head, and agreed to take it to President Jackson. He took the -mutilated head over to the White House, exhibited it to Jackson, and -repeated to him Dewey's story. When Jackson had heard the tale he -burst out in loud laughter, and pointing at the head, said: "That is -the most infernal graven image I ever saw. The fellow did perfectly -right; you've got him, you say; well, give him a kick and my -compliments, and tell him to saw it off again." Captain Dewey was -afterwards called the "figure-head man," and was given a public dinner -in Philadelphia on his return from Washington. He died at an advanced -age, in 1899. - -The crowning glory of Charlestown is the Bunker Hill Monument, marking -the greatest historical event of Boston, the famous battle fought June -17, 1775, when the British stormed the Yankee redoubt on the hilltop -north of Charles River, which was then open country, but long ago -became surrounded by the buildings of the expanding city, excepting -the small space of the battlefield, now reserved for a park around the -monument. The granite shaft rises two hundred and twenty-one feet, -upon the highest part of the eminence. The Provincial troops had -assembled in large numbers north and west of Boston, mainly in -Cambridge to the westward, and hearing that the British intended to -occupy Bunker and Breed's Hills, in Charlestown, a force was sent -under Colonel William Prescott, a veteran of the old French war, in -the night, to fortify Bunker Hill. Upon crossing over, they hastily -decided that it was better to occupy Breed's Hill, which, while part -of the same ridge, was nearer Boston, and they constructed upon it a -square redoubt. The British ships in Charles River discovered this at -daylight, and began a cannonade; American reinforcements were sent -from Cambridge; and in the afternoon General Gage attacked, his -onslaught being three times repulsed with heavy slaughter, when, the -Americans' ammunition being spent, they could only resist with clubbed -muskets and stones, and had to retreat. Facing Boston, in front of the -monument, the direction from which the attack came, is the bronze -statue of Prescott, the broad-brimmed hat shading his earnest face, -as, with deprecatory yet determined gesture, he uttered the memorable -words of warning that resulted in such terrible punishment of the -British storming column: "Don't fire until I tell you; don't fire -until you see the whites of their eyes." The traces of the hastily -constructed breastworks of the redoubt can be seen on the brow of the -hill, and a stone shows where Dr. Joseph Warren fell, he being killed -in the battle. He came to the fight as a volunteer, and had been made -a General in the Provincial army. The top of the tall monument gives a -splendid view in all directions over the harbor and suburbs of Boston, -with traces of Mount Wachusett far to the westward, and on clear days -a dim outline of the distant White Mountains. The corner-stone of the -monument was laid by Lafayette on his American visit in 1825, and it -was completed and dedicated in 1842, the oration on both occasions -being delivered by Daniel Webster. One of his glowing passages thus -tells the purpose of the monument: - -"We come as Americans to mark a spot which must forever be dear to us -and to our posterity. We wish that whosoever, in all coming time, -shall turn his eye hither, may behold that the place is not -undistinguished where the first great battle of the Revolution was -fought. We wish that this structure may proclaim the magnitude and -importance of that event to every class and every age. We wish that -infancy may learn the purpose of its erection from eternal lips, and -that weary and withered age may behold it and be solaced by the -recollections which it suggests. We wish that labor may look up here -and be proud in the midst of its toil. We wish that in those days of -disaster which, as they come upon all nations, must be expected to -come upon us also, desponding patriotism may turn its eyes hitherward, -and be assured that the foundations of our national powers are still -strong." - - -CAMBRIDGE AND HARVARD. - -Various long causeways over the wide expanse of Charles River where it -spreads out to form the Back Bay, and passing in front of the newly -filled-in West End, lead from Boston to the academic city of -Cambridge. This populous city, best known from Harvard University, is -beautifully situated on a plain, has important manufacturing -industries, handsome public buildings, and a large number of elegant -private residences in spacious grounds ornamented with fine old trees, -shrubbery and flower-gardens. Cambridge was settled soon after Boston, -as the "Newe Towne," in 1630. Its Common contains the venerable -"Washington Elm," over three hundred years old, under which, after the -battle of Bunker Hill, General Washington assumed command, July 3, -1775, of the American army besieging Boston. Opposite the southern -end of the Common are old Christ Church, built of materials sent out -from England, and the First Parish Church, with a Gothic steeple, -having between them the burying-ground of the old town. Of these, -Oliver Wendell Holmes has written: - - "Like Sentinel and Nun they keep - Their vigil on the green; - One seems to guard and one to weep - The dead that lie between." - -In the suburbs of Cambridge, adjoining Charles River, is Boston's -chief place of interment, Mount Auburn Cemetery, a romantic enclosure -of hill and vale, covering one hundred and twenty-five acres, with a -grand development of tombs and landscape. The tower upon the summit of -the Mount gives a beautiful outlook over the winding Charles River -valley and the Brookline, Brighton and West Roxbury villa and park -districts beyond, the distant view being closed by the charming Blue -Hills of Milton. In this cemetery are interred many of the famous men -of Massachusetts, including Longfellow, Lowell, Holmes, Everett, -Sumner, Motley, Choate, Quincy, Agassiz and Prescott. - -The great Cambridge institution, however, is Harvard University, the -oldest, largest and wealthiest seat of learning in America. In 1636 -the Massachusetts Legislature founded a school at the "Newe Towne," -voting £400 for the purpose, and in 1638 John Harvard, who had been -for a short time a pastor in Charlestown, died at the age of -thirty-one, and left to this school his library of two hundred and -sixty volumes and half his estate, valued at about £800. Then the -school was made a college and named Harvard, and the town was called -Cambridge by the Legislature. The monument of the youthful patron is -in Charlestown, and, cast in heroic bronze, he now sits in a capacious -chair in front of the Harvard Memorial Hall. This great University far -antedates its rival Yale at New Haven, for its first class was -graduated in 1642, and in 1650 "The President and Fellows of Harvard -College" were incorporated. In fact, Harvard was founded only ninety -years later than the great College of English Cambridge--Emmanuel. -John Harvard and Henry Dunster, who was the first President of -Harvard, and several other prominent Boston colonists, had been -students at Emmanuel, and thus from the older Puritan foundation came -the younger, and it was natural to adopt for the town the name of the -English University city. The first New England printing-press was set -up in 1639 at Cambridge, and in the Riverside Press and the University -Press of to-day it is succeeded by two renowned book-making -establishments. Closely allied, in a scientific way, has also been at -Cambridgeport for many years the works of Alvan Clark & Co., the noted -makers of telescope lenses. - -Harvard University has sent out many thousands of famous graduates, -and Longfellow, Holmes and Lowell have been members of its faculty. It -is liberally endowed, has ample grounds, and there are over sixty -buildings devoted to the purposes of the University, the annual -disbursements exceeding $1,000,000. Its government was formerly a -strictly religious organization, most of the graduates becoming -clergymen, but it was recently secularized so that no denominational -religion is now insisted upon, and comparatively few graduates enter -the pulpit. There are schools of law, medicine, dentistry, divinity, -agriculture, the arts and sciences, all the learned professions being -provided for, but everything is elective. In the various departments -there are more than four thousand students, taught by about four -hundred professors and instructors. It has some seven hundred acres of -land, interest-bearing endowments exceeding $8,000,000, receives, -besides, annual gifts sometimes reaching $400,000, and has a library -of five hundred thousand volumes and almost as many pamphlets. Much -attention is given outdoor sports and athletic training, Harvard -having the finest gymnasium in the country, and an athletic field of -twenty acres south of the river. Among the graduates have been two -Presidents, John Adams and his son John Quincy Adams; also his -grandson, Charles Francis Adams, William Ellery Channing, Edward -Everett, George Bancroft, Jared Sparks, William H. Prescott, Emerson, -Holmes, Sumner, Lowell, Motley and Thoreau. - -The University buildings are in the centre of the old city, enclosing -two large quadrangles shaded by elms. Massachusetts Hall, the oldest -building now standing, dates from 1720, Harvard Hall from 1766, and -University Hall from 1815. The most elaborate modern building is the -Memorial Hall, a splendid structure of brick and Nova Scotia stone, -three hundred and ten feet long, having a cloister at one end and a -massive tower at the other. This was erected in memory of the Harvard -graduates who fell in the Civil War; and in the grand Vestibule which -crosses the building like a transept, having a marble floor and rich -vaulted ceiling of ash, and fine windows through which pours a -mellowed light, there are tablets set in the arcaded sides bearing the -names of the dead. Upon one side of this impressive Vestibule is the -spacious Saunders Theatre, used for the commencements and public -services, having as an adornment the statue of Josiah Quincy, a -President of the College and long the Mayor of Boston. Upon the other -side of the Vestibule is the college Great Hall, one hundred and -sixty-four feet long and eighty feet high, with a splendid roof of -open timber-work and magnificent windows. This is the refectory where -a thousand students can dine, and in it centre the most hallowed -memories of Harvard, portraits and busts of the distinguished -graduates and benefactors adorning it, with the great western window -in the afternoon throwing a flood of rich sunlight over the scene. -Harvard has been patterned much after the original Cambridge, thus -adding to the English vogue of many things seen about Boston. When -Charles Dilke visited America he wrote of Harvard, "Our English -Universities have not about them the classic repose, the air of study, -which belongs to Cambridge, Massachusetts; our Cambridge comes nearest -to her daughter-town, but even the English Cambridge has a breathing -street or two, and a weekly market-day, while Cambridge in New England -is one great academic grove, buried in a philosophic calm, which our -universities cannot rival as long as men resort to them for other -purposes than work." The people at Boston told Dilke, when he was -here, that they spoke "the English of Elizabeth," and they heartily -congratulated him at the same time upon using what they said was "very -good English for an Englishman." - -Adjoining Cambridge Common is Radcliffe College, for women, named in -honor of the English Lady Anne Radcliffe, afterwards Lady Moulson, the -first woman giving a scholarship to Harvard (in 1640). Some four -hundred women receive instruction here from Harvard professors, and -the graduates are granted the college degrees. Near by, in Brattle -Street, is the Craigie House, dating from 1759, which was Washington's -headquarters in 1775-6, and later, for nearly a half century, was the -home of Henry W. Longfellow, until he died in 1882. Longfellow was for -twenty years Professor of Modern Languages in Harvard, being succeeded -in 1854 by James Russell Lowell, whose home of Elmwood, an old -colonial house, is farther out Brattle Street. Lowell was born in -Cambridge in 1819, dying in 1891. Oliver Wendell Holmes was born in -Cambridge in 1809, and being a skillful physician as well as a -_litterateur_, he was Professor of Anatomy and Physiology at Harvard -from 1847 till 1882. He resided in Boston on Beacon Street, dying in -1894. Margaret Fuller, the noted transcendentalist, was born in -Cambridge in 1810, and after writing several books, and achieving fame -as a linguist and conversationalist, she went abroad, marrying the -Marquis d'Ossoli in Rome, and returning to New York, they were both -lost by shipwreck at Fire Island in 1850. - - -LEXINGTON AND CONCORD. - -Following up the Charles River, about ten miles west of Boston is -Waltham, with twenty-two thousand people, noted for the works of the -American Waltham Watch Company, the largest in the world, producing -nearly six hundred thousand watches and movements in a year. The -extensive factory buildings spread along the river, and there are also -large cotton mills. General Nathaniel P. Banks was a native of -Waltham. To the northward and about twelve miles from Boston is the -quiet village of Lexington, chiefly built on one long tree-shaded -street, which terminates at its western end in a broad Green of about -two acres, whereon a plain monument recalls the eight Revolutionary -patriots killed there April 19, 1775. A handsome Memorial Hall of -brick is built on the Green to commemorate the Lexington soldiers who -fell in the Civil War. It also contains statues of John Hancock and -Samuel Adams, and of the "Minute Man of 1775" and the "Volunteer of -1861." - -The British commander in Boston, having learnt that the Massachusetts -patriots had collected arms and military stores at Concord, about -twenty miles northwest of Boston, on the night of April 18, 1775, -despatched a force to destroy them, and incidentally to capture -Hancock and Adams, who were at Lexington. The roads leading westward -out of Boston were picketed to prevent news being carried of the -expedition, but the signals from the old Christ Church on Copp's Hill -enabled Paul Revere to start from Charlestown through Cambridge, and -he made his rapid horseback ride, arriving by midnight at Lexington. -The bells of the village churches rang out the alarm, signal-guns were -fired, and messengers were sent in every direction to arouse the -people. About five o'clock in the morning Major Pitcairn with six -British companies arrived at Lexington, where the patriots, numbering -about seventy, were drawn up in line on the Green. Pitcairn rode -forward and shouted "Disperse, ye rebels; throw down your arms and -disperse!" They held their ground, and a volley was fired over their -heads, when, not dispersing, a second volley was fired, killing eight -and wounding ten men, the first blood shed in the American Revolution. -The American commander, seeing resistance was useless, withdrew and -dispersed his little band, some, as they retired, discharging their -muskets at the British, three of the latter being wounded and -Pitcairn's horse struck. Then the British made a rapid movement to -Concord, and some of the military stores which had not been removed -were found and destroyed. Meanwhile about four hundred Minute Men -gathered near the North Bridge over Concord River, about a mile from -the Common, and under orders they attacked and drove away the British -infantry, who had been placed on guard there. As the morning advanced, -the whole country became aroused, and armed patriots assembled from -every direction, those of Lexington having rallied and placed -themselves along the Concord road. The British commander was greatly -alarmed and ordered a retreat. They marched back to Boston under a -rattling fire, every house, barn and stone wall being picketed by -patriot sharpshooters, so that the road was strewn with dead and dying -British. Passing through Lexington, the British met reinforcements, -but they were still pursued to Cambridge and Charlestown, the -slaughter only ceasing when they had got under protection of the guns -of the fleet. The British loss was about two hundred and seventy, and -the Americans lost one hundred. In Concord the British graves and the -battle monuments are on one side of the historic bridge, and on the -other is a fine bronze statue of the "Minute Man." This Concord fight -was the first organized attack made by the Americans upon the British -in the Revolution, thus beginning the patriot rebellion against -British rule, as the Minute Men were acting under authority of the -Provincial Congress of Massachusetts, assembled in Concord, and -protecting their military stores. - - "By the rude bridge that arched the flood, - Their flag to April's breeze unfurled, - Here once the embattled farmers stood, - And fired the shot heard round the world." - -Concord has about six thousand people, and is also famous for its -literary history and associations. It is near the tranquil Concord -River and the junction of the little Assabet and Sudbury Rivers, a -pleasant tree-embowered quiet place of rural residence. Peter Bulkley, -an English rector, who was oppressed by Archbishop Laud, fled to New -England, and in 1636 buying of the Indians their domain of -Musketaquid, founded the town and church of Concord, thus naming it -because of its peaceful acquisition. In the nineteenth century it -became noted as the home of some of the greatest men of letters in -America. Near Concord bridge is an ancient gambrel-roofed house built -for Parson William Emerson in 1765, and from its windows he watched -the fight. This is the "Old Manse" in which Ralph Waldo Emerson, -himself once a clergyman, and descended from seven generations of -clergymen, was born in 1803. Emerson was known as the "Sage of -Concord," or, as Fredrika Bremer the novelist, who visited him there, -described him, the "Sphinx in Concord," and was the head of the modern -school of transcendental philosophy. He died in 1882. Nathaniel -Hawthorne lived for awhile in the "Old Manse" at Concord, and there -wrote his "Mosses from an Old Manse." The house was afterwards burnt. -Hawthorne died in 1864. Both Emerson and Hawthorne are buried in the -attractive little Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, Emerson's grave being marked -by a large block of pink quartz. Henry D. Thoreau, the eccentric but -profound scholar and naturalist, in 1845 built himself a hut on the -shores of the sequestered Walden Pond near Concord, leading the life -of a recluse, raising a few vegetables, and now and then, to get a -little money, doing some work as carpenter or surveyor. He was -profoundly skilled in Oriental and classic literature, and was an -ardent naturalist, delighting in making long pedestrian excursions to -the forests, lakes and ocean shores of New England. He never voted, -nor paid a tax, nor entered a church for worship, and of himself he -said, "I am as unfit for any practical purpose as gossamer is for -ship-timber." Emerson tells us that "Thoreau dedicated his genius -with such entire love to the fields, hills and waters of his native -town, that he made them known and interesting to all; he grew to be -revered and admired by his townsmen, who had at first known him only -as an oddity." Dying in 1862, he, too, is buried in Sleepy Hollow -Cemetery. In the Orchard House in Concord lived the Alcotts, of whom -Louisa M. Alcott, author of _Little Women_, is so widely known. -Adjacent is the building used by the "Concord School of Philosophy," -established in 1879 by A. Bronson Alcott. They also rest in the little -Cemetery. Thus is Concord famed, and it has well been said of this -historic old place that "it is dangerous to turn a corner suddenly for -fear of running over some first-class saint, philosopher or sage." - - -THE MASSACHUSETTS NORTH SHORE. - -The outer verge of Boston Harbor may be described as protected on the -south by the long projection of Nantasket Beach, while on the northern -side there comes out, as if to meet it, another curiously-formed -peninsula, making the bluffs of Winthrop, and a strip beyond -terminating in the rounded headland of Point Shirley. Deer Island, -almost connected with the Point, stretches farther, and we were -anciently told it was so called "because of the deare who often swim -thither from the maine when they are chased by the wolves." All these -places are popular resorts, and their odd formations assist in making -the Boston surroundings picturesque. Some distance up the coast, and -eleven miles from Boston, is the shoemaking city of Lynn, with seventy -thousand people, the flourishing society of the "Knights of St. -Crispin" ruling the shoemakers' "teams" and largely running the -politics of the town. Most of the work is done by machinery, there -being over two hundred factories, making more women's shoes than any -other place in the country. The first colonists were brought by their -pastor from Lynn-Regis, England, in 1629, and thus the town was named. -It spreads broadly along the water-front, its attractive City Hall -seen from afar, and many ornamental villas adorning the shore. Out -beyond it, thrust into the sea, is the long, low and narrow sand-strip -barely a hundred yards wide, leading for nearly four miles to Nahant. -This is a most curious formation, the name meaning the "Lovers' Walk," -a mass of rocks and soil at the outer end of the sand-strip covering -nearly five hundred acres, and crowned with villas, the neat tower of -a pretty white church rising on the highest part near the centre. The -Bostonians have made Nahant, thus surrounded by the ocean, one of -their most fashionable suburban sections, and it is popularly known as -"Cold Roast Boston." This strange rocky promontory was originally -bought from the Sagamore Poquanum for a suit of clothes, and it is now -valued at over $10,000,000. Many are the poems written about this -curious projection, and N. P. Willis says of it: "If you can imagine a -buried Titan lying along the length of a continent, with one arm -stretched out into the midst of the sea, the spot to which I would -transport you, reader mine, would be, as it were, in the palm of the -giant's hand." Invocations have been addressed to Nahant by -Longfellow, Whittier and Mrs. Sigourney; there Longfellow wrote part -of _Hiawatha_, Motley began his _Dutch Republic_, Prescott wrote his -Spanish histories, and Agassiz composed _Brazil_. - -The region beyond Lynn and Nahant is the famous Massachusetts "North -Shore," stretching to the extremity of Cape Ann, a domain of villas -and summer homes, pleasant sea-beaches, and brisk towns with -interesting past history, now devoted largely to shoemaking and the -fisheries. From Boston State House to the extremity of the Cape at -Halibut Point, or the Land's End, is thirty-one miles, and Lucy Larcom -thus attractively describes the route along the shore: - - "You may ride in an hour or two, if you will, - From Halibut Point to Beacon Hill, - With the sea beside you all the way, - Through pleasant places that skirt the bay; - By Gloucester harbor and Beverley beach, - Salem's old steeples, Nahant's long reach, - Blue-bordered Swampscott, and Chelsea's wide - Marshes laid bare to the drenching tide, - With a glimpse of Saugus' spire in the west, - And Malden Hills in their dreamy rest." - -Saugus, Lynn, Nahant, Swampscott, Salem and Marblehead were originally -the Indian domains of Saugus, Naumkeag and Massabequash. Beyond Lynn, -most of the coast has undergone a modern evolution from fishery -stations to smart summer resorts; and here, around the swamps and -marshes, abounding crags protrude, with many fine villas in another -fashionable Boston suburb, Swampscott, as populous and almost as -famous as Nahant, with huge hotels down by the seaside. Swampscott -merges into Clifton, and then an uneven backbone of granite covering -about six square miles is thrust into the ocean in the direction of -Cape Ann, and is hedged about with rocky islets. On one side this -granite peninsula forms Salem harbor, while on the other a miniature -haven is made by a craggy appendage to the southeastward, attached to -the main peninsula by a ligature of sand and shingle. The quaint old -town of Marblehead occupies most of the surface, and the appendage is -the modern yachtsmen's headquarters, Marblehead Neck. This is a very -ancient place, dating back to the early seventeenth century, and was -once pre-eminently nautical and the second port in Massachusetts; but -the sailors and fishermen are missing, excepting those who man the -summer yacht fleets, and the people, like so many other Massachusetts -communities, have gone largely into shoemaking, the big shoe-factories -being scattered about. The crooked narrow streets run in all -directions among and over the rocks, which appear everywhere and have -gained the mastery. When George Whitefield, the preacher, visited -Marblehead, he gazed in astonishment upon these superabundant rocks, -and asked, in surprise, "Where do they bury their dead?" Out on the -headland is the superannuated little Fort Sewall, once protecting the -port and commanding both harbors, and though the walls are decaying, -it is preserved as a memento of the past. Fine villas are all about, -and the numerous islands add picturesqueness to the sea-view. Elbridge -Gerry, of "Gerrymander" fame, was a native of Marblehead, and its -hardy sailors formed most of the crew of the old ship "Constitution" -when she fought and captured the "Guerriere," and afterwards the -"Cyane" and "Levant." Marblehead was also the scene of "Skipper -Ireson's Ride," which Whittier has made historic: - - "Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, - Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart - By the women of Marblehead!" - -He had refused to take some of his townsmen off a drifting wreck, -because it would cost too much to feed them on the way home. - - -SALEM AND THE WITCHES. - -Westward of the Marblehead peninsula, there stretches into the -mainland another noted haven of the olden time, Salem harbor, -dividing it into two arms, the North and South Rivers, having between -them the town, chiefly built upon a peninsula about two miles long. -This was the Indian domain of Naumkeag, a name preserved in many -titles there, and meaning the "Eel-Land." It was the mother-colony on -Massachusetts Bay, the first house being built in 1626, and old John -Endicott having got a grant from Plymouth for the colony, he came out -and founded the town two years afterwards, calling it Salem, "from the -peace which they had and hoped in it." But despite this peacefulness, -the people soon developed warlike tendencies. They scourged Philip -Ratcliffe, and cut off his ears and banished him soon after the -founding, for "blasphemy against the First Church," and when the port -had got well under way, an annual trade statement showed imports of -$110,000 in arms and cannon, against $90,000 in everything else. The -"First Church," formed in 1629, was the earliest church organization -in New England, and it still exists. There were then ten houses in the -town, besides the Governor's house, which the early history describes -as "garnished with great ordnance;" adding, "thus we doubt not that -God will be with us, and if God be with us, who can be against us?" -John Winthrop was here as Governor, briefly, in 1630, soon migrating -to Shawmut, to found Boston for the capital of the colony. After the -Revolution, Salem was the leading seaport of New England; but its -glory has departed, and the trade has gone to Boston. In 1785 it sent -out the first American vessel that doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and -during a half century afterwards it held almost a monopoly of the East -India and China trade with the United States, having at one time -fifty-four large ships thus engaged. The Salem ships also went to the -Southern seas, Japan and Africa. This trade gave its people great -wealth and influence, and it was said, about 1810, that a Salem -merchant was then the largest shipowner in the world. But this has -retired into the dim past, and now it is a restful city of about forty -thousand people, its leading townsmen, the descendants of the -merchants and captains, living in comfortable mansions surrounding the -Common and along the quiet elm-shaded streets in the residential -section. The rest of the population have gone into shoemaking and -other manufactures. - -George Peabody, the philanthropist, was the most noted citizen of -Salem, born in the suburb of Danvers (since changed to Peabody) in -1795, and, dying in 1869, his remains rest in Harmony Grove Cemetery. -In the Peabody Institute, which he founded in Danvers, is kept as a -sacred relic Queen Victoria's portrait, her gift to him in recognition -of his benefactions. General Putnam, Nathaniel Bowditch, William H. -Prescott, the historian, W. W. Story, the sculptor, and Nathaniel -Hawthorne, were natives of Salem. The East India Marine Hall is its -most noted institution, a fine building filled with a remarkable -Oriental collection, gathered in the many voyages made by Salem ships, -and also having a valuable Natural History Museum, designed to show -the development of animal life. In the Essex Institute are interesting -historical paintings and relics, including the charter given by King -Charles I. to the colony of Massachusetts Bay. Also, carefully kept -near by, is the original "First Church," built in 1634 for the -organization formed in 1629, and of which Roger Williams was the -pastor before the Puritans banished him from the colony. When the -enlarging congregation built a more spacious church, this quaint -little house, with its high-pointed roof, diamond-paned windows and -gallery, which is revered as the shrine of Salem, was removed to its -present location. In Essex Street is also the old "Roger Williams -House," a low-roofed structure with a little shop in front, his home -for a brief period in 1635-36. This house has acquired additional fame -as a relic of the witchcraft days, for in it was held the court trying -some of the witches in 1692, who were afterwards taken to the gallows -or Witch Hill, on the western verge of the town, to be put to death. -The witchcraft delusion began in the Danvers suburb and soon overran -most of New England, the prosecutions continuing more than a year. -Nineteen proven witches were executed, while one, under the ancient -English law, was pressed to death for standing mute when told to -plead. Old Cotton Mather, the historian and pastor, was a leader in -the movement against the witches. - -The North Shore, beyond Salem Harbor, stretches far along the -rock-bound coast of Cape Ann. Here all the old fishing towns have -become modern villa-studded summer resorts, picturesque and attractive -in their newer development. Beverley, Manchester-by-the-Sea and -Magnolia all have grand headlands and fine beaches. Beverley also has -shoe-factories, and is proud of the memory of Nathan Dane, the eminent -jurist, who named Dane Hall, the Harvard Law School. Manchester has -the "Singing Beach," where the white sand, when stirred, emits a -musical sound. Magnolia, on a rocky bluff, is adjoined by the -attractive Crescent Beach, and has around it very fine woodland. To -the eastward is Rafe's Chasm, sixty feet deep and only a few feet -wide, and off shore, almost opposite, is the bleak reef of Norman's -Woe. Inland is Wenham Lake, near Beverley, noted for its ice supply, -upon which all these places depend, while beyond, the Ipswich River -comes down through the pleasant town of Ipswich, covering both banks -with houses, and flowing into Ipswich Bay north of the peninsula of -Cape Ann. To the westward is Andover, where the thrifty Puritan -Fathers, having bought the domain from the Indians "for twenty-six -dollars and sixty-four cents and a coat," established the noted -Andover Theological Seminary of the Congregational Church, where its -ablest divines have been taught in what has been called "the school -of the prophets." Here, on "Andover Hill," abstruse theology has been -the ruling influence and intense religious controversies have been -waged, over three thousand clergymen having been graduated. Mrs. -Harriet Beecher Stowe lived here after publishing _Uncle Tom's Cabin_, -and is buried here. Elizabeth Stuart Phelps was born here, and wrote -_Gates Ajar_ in the venerable "Phelps House." The Seminary buildings, -the local guidebook tells us, cause visitors to wonder "if orthodox -angels have not lifted up old Harvard and Massachusetts Halls and -carried them by night from Cambridge to Andover Hill." Ipswich, too, -has a famous Seminary, but it is for the opposite sex. We are told -that one reason for the popularity of Ipswich Female Seminary is that -its location tends to softening the rigors of study, as this is the -place "where Andover theological students are wont to take unto -themselves wives of the daughters of the Puritans." The indented shore -of Ipswich Bay was ancient Agawam, of which Captain John Smith, -coasting along in 1614, recorded in his narrative that he saw "the -many cornfields and delightful groves of Agawam." The fertile valley -of Ipswich River is a veritable oasis among the rocks, moors and -salt-marshes that environ it. - - -THE MERRIMACK RIVER. - -Near the northern boundary of Massachusetts is the famous Merrimack -River, flowing northeastward into the Atlantic, and noted for the -enormous water-powers it provides for the various mill-towns that line -its banks. It is a vigorous stream, having frequent waterfalls and -carrying a powerful current, the name appropriately meaning "the swift -water." Oliver Wendell Holmes writes of it in _The School Boy_: - - "Do pilgrims find their way to Indian Ridge, - Or journey onward to the far-off bridge, - And bring to younger ears the story back - Of the broad stream, the mighty Merrimack?" - -The Merrimack drains the southern slopes of the White Mountains, and -takes the outflow of Lake Winnipesaukee, a vast reservoir, the waters -being regulated at its outlet to suit the wants of the mills below. It -flows southward through New Hampshire into Massachusetts, turning -northeast to the ocean. The river passes near Salisbury, where Daniel -Webster was born in 1782; then, seventy-five miles northwest of -Boston, comes to Concord, the capital of New Hampshire, which has a -fine Capitol building and quarries of excellent granite; and eighteen -miles below, it reaches Manchester, the chief city of New Hampshire, -having sixty thousand people and many large mills owned by wealthy -corporations. Here are the Amoskeag Falls (the Indian name meaning the -"fishing-place"), the largest on the Merrimack, having fifty-five feet -descent, and their water-power being utilized through two canals. The -chief products are textile goods, locomotives and steam fire-engines. -Eighteen miles farther southward the Nashua River comes up from the -southwest, having passed the industrial town of Fitchburg on the way, -and here at its confluence with the Merrimack is Nashua, another busy -factory town. At Amherst, not far away, Horace Greeley was born in -1811. Crossing the boundary into Massachusetts, the river comes to the -Pawtucket Falls, having thirty-two feet descent, and furnishing the -water-power, twenty-six miles northwest of Boston, for the great mills -of Lowell, the third city of Massachusetts, having a hundred thousand -people, and spreading along the Merrimack at its confluence with -Concord River, coming up from Concord Bridge of Revolutionary fame. -The first mill was built at Lowell in 1823, and its industries have -assumed a wide range and enormous output, though the operatives are -nearly all French Canadians, and the language heard in this once -Yankee mill-town is now mainly French. The Merrimack, having turned -northeast, next comes to Lawrence, where it descends rapids of -twenty-eight feet in the course of a half-mile. Here the Lawrence -family, of which the noted Abbott Lawrence was the chief, established -a town of cotton and woollen mills, utilizing the rapids by -constructing a huge dam nine hundred feet long and thirty feet high, -in 1845, at a cost of $250,000. Here are the great Pacific Mills, -among the largest textile works in the world, and the city has over -sixty thousand inhabitants. Nine miles farther down the river is -Haverhill, another manufacturing town, with forty thousand people, -largely engaged in shoemaking. The poet John G. Whittier was born in -1807 near Lake Kenoza, the scene of his _Snowbound_, on the -northeastern verge of Haverhill. - -Below Haverhill the Merrimack is a navigable, tidal stream, broadening -into a spacious harbor at its mouth in the town of Newbury, where the -"ancient sea-blown city" of Newburyport is built on the southern -shore, while five miles to the westward, on the Pow-wow River, is -Amesbury, long the home of Whittier, who died in 1892, after having -celebrated this whole region in his poems. His house is maintained as -a memorial. Newburyport long since turned its attention from commerce -to making shoes and other manufactures, and it now has about eighteen -thousand population. Its splendid High Street, upon the crest of the -ridge, one of the noted tree-embowered highways of New England, -stretches several miles parallel to the river, down towards the sea, -bordered by the stately mansions of the olden time. The Merrimack -sweeps grandly along in front of them with a broad curve to the ocean, -three miles below. The Newburyport Marine Museum contains foreign -curiosities brought home by the old-time sea captains, and the Public -Library, endowed by George Peabody, occupies an impressive colonial -mansion, which has been flavored by the entertainment of Generals -Washington and Lafayette. The Old South Presbyterian Church has the -body of the famous preacher George Whitefield, who died in Newburyport -in 1770, interred in a vault under the pulpit. In a little wooden -house behind this church, William Lloyd Garrison, the Abolitionist, -was born in 1805. Caleb Cushing the jurist and John B. Gough the -temperance lecturer lived in Newburyport; but its resident who -probably achieved the greatest notoriety in his day was "Lord" Timothy -Dexter, an eccentric merchant of the eighteenth century, who made a -large fortune by singular ventures, among them shipping a cargo of -warming-pans to the West Indies, where they were sold to the planters -at a stiff profit for boiling sugar. - -Whittier's home was on the Merrimack, and he has written for the river -a noble invocation: - - "Stream of my fathers! sweetly still - The sunset rays thy valley fill; - Poured slantwise down the long defile, - Wave, wood, and spire beneath them smile. - - "Centuries ago, that harbor bar, - Stretching its length of foam afar, - And Salisbury's beach of shining sand, - And yonder island's wave-smoothed strand, - Saw the adventurer's tiny sail - Flit, stooping from the eastern gale; - And o'er these woods and waters broke - The cheer from Britain's hearts of oak, - As, brightly on the voyager's eye, - Weary of forest, sea and sky, - Breaking the dull continuous wood, - The Merrimack rolled down his flood. - - "Home of my fathers! I have stood - Where Hudson rolled his lordly flood: - Seen sunrise rest and sunset fade - Along his frowning Palisade; - Looked down the Appalachian peak, - On Juniata's silver streak; - Have seen along his valley gleam - The Mohawk's softly winding stream; - The level light of sunset shine - Through broad Potomac's hem of pine; - And autumn's rainbow-tinted banner - Hang lightly o'er the Susquehanna; - Yet wheresoe'er his step might be, - Thy wandering child looked back to thee: - Heard in his dreams thy river's sound - Of murmuring on its pebbly bound, - The unforgotten swell and roar - Of waves on thy familiar shore." - - -THE BRIDAL OF PENNACOOK. - -It was in the valley of the Merrimack that Whittier located the scene -of his famous poem, the "Bridal of Pennacook." This American epic -tells-- - - "A story of the marriage of the chief - Of Saugus to the dusky Weetamoo, - Daughter of Passaconaway, who dwelt - In the old time upon the Merrimack." - -Winnepurkit was the son of Nanapashemet, or the New Moon, and was the -Sagamore of Saugus, Naumkeag, and the adjoining domain. He was of -noble blood and valor, and for his bride chose the daughter of -Passaconaway, the great chief, ruling all the tribes in the Merrimack -Valley, who lived at Pennacook, now Concord. Not only was Passaconaway -a mighty chief, but he was also the greatest Powah or wizard of his -time, the colonial annalists gravely telling that he could make trees -dance, waters burn, and green leaves grow in winter, through his -necromancy. When Winnepurkit married this wizard's daughter, great was -the feasting at this "Bridal of Pennacook." Then Passaconaway caused a -select party of warriors to escort his daughter to her husband's home -at Saugus, where they received princely entertainment. Not long -afterwards the bride expressed a wish to again see her father and her -home at Pennacook, whereupon her husband sent her thither, escorted by -a trusty band, who were graciously received and rewarded. After some -time Weetamoo desired to return to Saugus, and her father sent word of -this to his son-in-law by messengers, requesting that a suitable guard -be provided to escort her down. But Winnepurkit liked not this method, -and bade the messengers return with this reply, "That when his wife -departed from him he caused his own men to wait upon her to her -father's territories, as did become him; but now that she had an -intent to return, it did become her father to send her back with a -convoy of his own people, and that it stood not with Winnepurkit's -reputation either to make himself or his men so servile as to fetch -her again." This reply, as may be imagined, ruffled the old chief, and -he sent a sharp answer "That his daughter's blood and birth deserved -more respect than to be slighted in such a manner, and therefore, if -Winnepurkit would have her company, he were best to send or come for -her." Neither would yield the point of Indian etiquette, and the -colonial narrator leaves it to be inferred that she then remained with -her father, though it is supposed she subsequently rejoined her -husband. The poet has made good use of the story, illustrating the -scenery of the region with great felicity, but giving the tale a -highly dramatic ending. Whittier makes the heart-broken bride, in her -effort to return to her husband, launch her canoe upon the swollen -Merrimack above the falls at Amoskeag when a spring freshet was -bringing down masses of ice: - - "Down the vexed centre of that rushing tide, - The thick, huge ice-blocks threatening either side, - The foam-white rocks of Amoskeag in view, - With arrowy swiftness sped that light canoe. - - "Sick and aweary of her lonely life, - Heedless of peril, the still faithful wife - Had left her mother's grave, her father's door, - To seek the wigwam of her chief once more! - - "Down the white rapids, like a sere leaf whirled, - On the sharp rocks and piled-up ices hurled, - Empty and broken, circled the canoe, - In the vexed pool below--but where was Weetamoo?" - - -CAPE ANN. - -Out in front of the region we have been describing projects the famous -"ridge of rocks and roses," the gaunt headland of Cape Ann. This is a -ponderous mass of hornblende granite, advanced forward twelve to -fifteen miles into the ocean, with Thatcher's Island beyond, on which -are the twin lighthouses that guard the mariner, forty-two miles north -of the Highland Light on Cape Cod. The granite hills of the iron-bound -headland are fringed with forests, while jagged reefs and rocky islets -surround it, against which the sea beats in perpetual warfare. The -surface is strewn with boulders, many of large size, and beds of the -finest white sand are interspersed. The Indians called this promontory -Wingaersheek, and when Captain John Smith came along he named it Cape -Tragabizonda, in memory of a Moslem princess who had befriended him -when a prisoner in Constantinople, also calling three small islands -off the cape the "Three Turks' Heads." But King Charles I. would have -none of this, however, and called the headland Cape Ann, after his -royal mother, and thus it has remained. The haven on the southern -side, Gloucester harbor, was early sought as a fishing station, being -known in 1624, and it received its name in 1642, most of the early -settlers coming from Gloucester in England. Champlain found it a safe -harbor when in peril, and writes of it as "Le Beau Port." In -August, 1892, this famous fishery port celebrated its two hundred and -fiftieth anniversary with great fervor. - - [Illustration: _Along the Shore, Cape Anne, Gloucester, Mass._] - -The prosperity of Gloucester has come from the fisheries, it being the -greatest cod and mackerel port in America, and having the most -extensive fleet of fishing-boats in the world, exceeding six hundred, -employing over six thousand men. The population approximates thirty -thousand, and it is said their earnings on the fishery product are -over $4,000,000 annually. The earliest form of the Cape Ann -fishing-smack was known as the "Chebacco," two-masted, cat-rigged, and -of ten or twelve tons, made sharp at both ends, and getting the name -from the first place of building, Chebacco Parish, in Ipswich, -adjoining the Cape. From this was developed the popular American build -of vessel known as the schooner, the first one being launched at -Gloucester in 1713. After sliding down the launching-ways, she so -gracefully glided out upon the water that a bystander exclaimed in -admiration, "See how she schoons!" and thus was she unexpectedly -named, for a "schooner" has that style of vessel been ever since -called. Gloucester surrounds its spacious harbor as a broad crescent, -having Ten Pound Island in front sentinelling the entrance to the -inner haven, so named because that was the price said to have been -paid the Indians for it. The deeply indented harbor opens towards the -southwest, being protected from the ocean by the long peninsula of -Eastern Point, having a fort and lighthouse on its extremity. Some -seventy wharves jut out from the circular head of the bay, with -granite hills rising behind, up which the town is terraced. Shipping -of all kinds are scattered about, including large salt-laden ships, -while fishermen and sailors wander through the streets and assemble -around the docks, spinning yarns and preparing for fishing ventures -out to the "Banks." The odd old town around the harbor has seen little -change for years, but the newer portions are greatly improved, having -many imposing buildings, including a fine City Hall. The numerous -churches have gained for it the title of "Many-spired Gloucester," and -no place could disclose more picturesque sea views. - -But the fishery interest pervades the whole town, dwarfing everything -else. The main street winds about the head of the harbor, bending with -the sinuosities of the shore, and from it other streets, without much -regularity, go down to the wharves. Fishing-boats are everywhere, with -new ones building, and on most of the open spaces are "cod-flakes," or -drying-places, where the fish are piled when first landed, preparatory -to being cut up and packed in the extensive packing-houses adjoining -the wharves. Here many hundreds are employed in preparing the fish for -market, both men and women working. The best fish are either packed -whole or cut into squares, so they may be pressed by machinery into -what are known as "cod-bricks," one and two-pound bricks being put -into forty-pound boxes for shipment. When packed whole, the best fish -are known as "white clover," in this stage of what is called the -fishery "haymaking." This fish-packing is an enormous industry, and -the Gloucester product goes to all parts of the world. But the fishery -has its sombre side; the vessels are small, rarely over one hundred -tons, and the crews are numerous, so that wrecks and loss of life are -frequent. Often a tremendous storm will destroy a whole fleet on the -"Banks," with no tidings ever received; and scarcely a family exists -in Gloucester or its neighborhood that has not lost a member at sea. -Sometimes the badges of mourning are universal. - -An enormous development of rocks and boulders is seen everywhere in -and around Gloucester. The houses are built upon rocks, the sea beats -against rocks; but though excellent building-material is here, the -houses are mostly of wood throughout the whole Cape Ann district. -There is almost universally an ocean outlook over a sea of deepest -blue. The outer extremity of the harbor to the westward is a long -granite ridge ending in the popular watering-place of Magnolia Point. -Down on the Eastern Point, alongside its terminating lighthouse, is a -curious granitic formation, the rocks reproducing an elderly dame with -muffled form and apron, known as "Mother Ann," this rude image being -locally regarded as representing, in the eternal granite, the lady -who named the Cape, the royal mother of King Charles I. The white -flashing light upon Ten Pound Island between them is said to have for -one of its chief duties the guiding of the mariner past the -treacherous reefs of Norman's Woe, just west of the harbor entrance, -which Longfellow has immortalized in his poem _The Wreck of the -Hesperus_. One "Goodman Norman" and his son were among the first -settlers near there, and hence the name, but no record is found as to -the "Woe" he may have had. Neither is it known that any wreck ever -occurred on this famous reef. In the winter of 1839 a terrific storm -caused many disasters around Cape Ann, and forty dead bodies, one -being a woman lashed to a spar, were washed on the Gloucester shore. -Longfellow read in a newspaper the story of these wrecks and the -horrible details, one of the vessels being named the "Hesperus," and -he somewhere saw a reference to "Norman's Woe." This name so impressed -him that he determined to write a ballad on the wrecks. Late one -night, as he sat by the fireside smoking his pipe, he conjured up the -vivid scene and wrote the ballad. He retired to bed, but, as he -relates, it was not to sleep; new thoughts crowded his mind, and he -rose and added them to the ballad, and at three o'clock in the morning -had finished his immortal poem. There was no such wreck at the place, -but his genius has associated it with the iron-bound coast of Cape -Ann, and Norman's Woe is a monument consecrated to one of America's -greatest poets. - - "It was the schooner Hesperus - That sailed the wintry sea; - And the skipper had taken his little daughter - To bear him company. - - "And fast through the midnight dark and drear, - Through the whistling sleet and snow, - Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept - Towards the reef of Norman's Woe. - - "She struck where the white and fleecy waves - Looked soft as carded wool, - But the cruel rocks they gored her sides - Like the horns of an angry bull. - - "Her rattling shrouds, all sheathed in ice, - With the masts went by the board; - Like a vessel of glass, she stove and sank, - Ho! ho! the breakers roared! - - "At daybreak on the bleak sea-beach, - A fisherman stood aghast, - To see the form of a maiden fair, - Lashed close to a drifting mast. - - "The salt sea was frozen on her breast, - The salt tears in her eyes; - And he saw her hair, like the brown sea-weed, - On the billows fall and rise. - - "Such was the wreck of the Hesperus, - In the midnight and the snow! - Christ save us all from a death like this - On the reef of Norman's Woe!" - - -THE LAND'S END. - -The impressive scenery and bold picturesqueness all about attract many -artists, who haunt the rocks and sea views of Cape Ann. The whole -district is full of summer-homes, with flower-gardens and shrubbery -amid the rocks and boulders, and the cliffs and ocean presenting an -endless variety of changing scenery. The outer extremity of the Cape, -long called Halibut Point, has been modernized into the Land's End, -thus being rightly named as the termination of the great Massachusetts -granite ridge, which falls away sharply into the sea. Upon the one -hand Pigeon Cove, with its adjacent Sandy Bay, indents the rocky -buttress, while upon the other side is Whale Cove. Just off the Land's -End is the noted Thatcher's Island, low-lying on the sea, elongated, -narrow and barren, with its tall twin lighthouses, and having nearby, -in front of Whale Cove, the diminutive Milk Island. To the northward, -off Pigeon Cove, is another barren rock surmounted by a lighthouse, -Straitsmouth Island. These three outlying islands were the "Three -Turks' Heads," as originally named by Captain John Smith. Thatcher's -Island has about eighty acres of mainly gravelly surface strewn with -boulders, being named from Anthony Thatcher's shipwreck there in 1635 -in the most awful tempest known to colonial New England. Rockport is a -town of quarries extended around Sandy Bay, protected by breakwaters, -behind which vessels come to load stone almost alongside the quarry. -Pigeon Cove is the port for shipping stone taken out of Pigeon Hill, -where the granite ridge is humped up into a grand eminence. -Lanesville, to the north, is another large exporter of paving-blocks -and building-stone. Alongside is Folly Point, guarding Folly Cove, at -the northeastern extremity of the Cape, and to the westward are the -villages of Bay View and Annisquam, with more quarries, and having, -not far away, flowing out to Ipswich Bay through a lovely valley in -the very heart of the Cape, the attractive little Squam River. The -people of Cape Ann outside of Gloucester are almost all quarrymen, -their product, largely paving-blocks, being shipped to all the -seaboard cities. So extensive is this trade that it is difficult to -decide which now brings the district most profit, the granite or the -fish. There is no doubt, however, that the greatest fame of this -celebrated Cape comes from its fisheries and the venturesome men who -make them so successful. Edmund Burke, in the British House of -Commons, in 1774, thus spoke of these Massachusetts fishermen: "No sea -but what is vexed by their fisheries; no climate that is not witness -of their toils; neither the perseverance of Holland, nor the activity -of France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity of English enterprise, -ever carried their most perilous mode of hardy industry to the extent -to which it has been pursued by this recent people--a people who are -yet in the gristle, and not yet hardened into manhood." - -For three centuries, almost, this perilous trade has been carried on, -and they are fully as daring and even more enterprising now than in -the colonial days. Thus Whittier describes them: - - "Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's Bank, - Cold on the shore of Labrador the fog lies white and dank; - Through storm and wave and blinding mist, stout are the hearts - which man - The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. - - "The cold North light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms - Bent grimly o'er their straining lines, or wrestling with the - storms; - Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam, - They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home." - - - - -THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF - -NARRAGANSETT. - - - - -XVI. - -THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF NARRAGANSETT. - - The State of Rhode Island -- Narragansett Bay -- Point - Judith -- Aquidneck -- Conanicut Island -- Jamestown -- - Beaver Tail Light -- Patience, Hope and Despair Islands -- - The Starved Goat -- Durfee Hill -- Narragansett Indians -- - Canonicus -- Miantonomoh -- The Narragansett Fort Fight -- - Uncas -- Norwich -- Sachem's Plain -- Nanunteno -- Yantic - Falls -- Narragansett Pier -- Commodore Perry -- Stuart the - Artist -- Wickford -- Clams -- Rocky Point -- Blackstone - River -- Seeconk River -- Vinland -- Roger Williams -- What - Cheer Rock -- Providence -- General Burnside -- Malbone's - Masterpiece -- Brown University -- Pawtucket -- Samuel - Slater -- Central and Valley Falls -- William Blackstone -- - Study Hill -- Woonsocket -- Worcester -- George Bancroft -- - Lake Quinsigamond -- Ware -- Mount Hope Bay -- The Vikings - -- Taunton Great River -- Bristol Neck -- Taunton -- - Dighton Rock -- The Skeleton in Armor -- Bristol -- Mount - Hope -- King Philip -- Last of the Wampanoags -- Massasoit - -- Death of Philip -- Fall River -- Watuppa Ponds -- - Newport -- Brenton's Point -- Fort Adams -- William - Coddington -- Bishop Berkeley -- The Cliff Walk -- Newport - Cottages -- The Casino -- Bellevue Avenue -- Judah Touro -- - Touro Park -- The Old Stone Mill -- Buzzard's Bay -- - Acushnet River -- New Bedford -- The Whale Fishery -- - Clark's Point -- Fort Taber -- Nonquitt -- Vineyard Sound - -- Bartholomew Gosnold -- No Man's Land -- Elizabeth - Islands -- Cuttyhunk -- Sakonnet Point -- Hen and Chickens - -- Sow and Pigs -- Gay Head -- Naushon -- Penikese -- - Nashawena -- Pasque Island -- James Bowdoin -- Wood's Holl - -- Martha's Vineyard -- Vineyard Haven -- Thomas Mayhew -- - Cottage City -- Edgartown -- Chappaquidick Island -- Cape - Poge -- Nantucket -- Manshope -- Thomas Macy -- Wesco -- - Whaling -- Nantucket Sound -- Nantucket Shoals -- Nantucket - Town -- Siasconset -- Wrecks. - - -THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. - -Narragansett Bay is one of the finest harbors on the New England -coast. It stretches thirty miles inland, the rivers emptying into it -making the water-power for the numerous and extensive textile -factories of Rhode Island, which embraces the shores surrounding and -the islands within the bay. It opens broadly, having beautiful shores, -lined with pleasant beaches which dissolve into low cliffs and -water-worn crags; for the character of the coast gradually changes -from the sandy borders of Long Island Sound to the rocks of New -England. Its western boundary, stretching far out into the sea, is the -famous Point Judith, a long, low, narrow and protruding sandspit -thrust into the Atlantic, a headland dreaded by the traveller, to whom -"rounding Point Judith" and its brilliant flashing beacon, thus -changing the course over the long ocean swells, when voyaging upon a -Sound steamer, means a great deal in the way of tribute to Neptune. -This headland was always feared by the mariner, and we are -romantically told that in the colonial days a storm-tossed vessel was -driven in towards this shore, her anxious skipper at the wheel, when -suddenly his bright-eyed daughter, Judith, called out, "Land, father, -I see the land!" His dim vision not discerning it, he shouted, "Where -away? Point, Judith, point!" She pointed; he was warned; and quickly -changing the course, escaped disaster. This story was often repeated, -so that in time the sailors gave her name to the headland. It is an -interesting tale, but there are people, more prosaic, who insist that -the Point was really named after Judith Quincy, wife of John Hull, the -coiner of the ancient "pine-tree shillings," who bought the land there -from the Indians. But, however named, and whoever the sponsor, Judith -is usually well-remembered by those circumnavigating the dreaded -Point. - -Within Narragansett Bay, the chief island is Aquidneck, or Rhode -Island, about fifteen miles long and of much fertility, having the -best farm land in New England, and at the southern end the noted -watering-place of Newport. This island furnishes the first half of the -long official title of the little State--"Rhode Island and Providence -Plantations." The memory of the old Narragansett chieftain, Canonicus, -is preserved in Conanicut Island, west of Rhode Island, and seven -miles long, there being between the two islands the capacious -anchorage-ground of Newport Harbor. This island in 1678 was named -Jamestown in honor of King James, and at its southern end, near the -ruins of an old British fort, is the famous Beaver Tail Light, the -guide into Newport harbor, the oldest lighthouse in America, dating -from 1667. Roger Williams, who founded the "Providence Plantations," -distributed various names to the other islands, several of them now -popular resorts, among these titles, which represent the varying -phases of his early emotions, being Prudence, Patience, Hope and -Despair, while some later colonists with different ideas, evidently -named Dutch Island, Hog Island, and the Starved Goat. Rhode Island is -the smallest State in the Union, though among the first in -manufactures, and in wealth proportionately to population. It has -barely twelve hundred square miles of surface, of which more than -one-eighth is water, and the highest land, Durfee Hill, is elevated -only eight hundred feet. - - -THE LAND OF THE NARRAGANSETTS. - -The region back of Point Judith and around Narragansett Bay was the -home of the Narragansett Indians, who were early made, by Roger -Williams, the friends of the white man. When the Pilgrims landed at -Plymouth, there were said to be thirty thousand of them, but they were -afterwards wasted by pestilence, and when Williams fled to Providence -and was received by them, he said they had twelve towns within twenty -miles, and five thousand warriors. They fought the Pequots, to the -westward, but were friendly with the tribes of Massachusetts, to which -they really gave the name, for, living in a comparatively flat -country, they described these tribes as belonging "near the great -hills or mountains," which is the literal meaning of the word, they -telling Williams it meant the many hills of that State, including the -"blue hills of Milton." Canonicus and Miantonomoh were the great -chiefs of the Narragansetts, described by the early colonists as wise, -brave and magnanimous. The former made the grant of the lands at -Providence to Roger Williams, and was his firm friend. The latter, the -nephew and successor of Canonicus, joined the Puritans under Mason at -Pequot Hill in the attack and defeat of the Pequots. In their original -theology they looked forward to a mystic realm in the far southwest -where the gods and pure spirits dwelt, while the souls of murderers, -thieves and liars were doomed forever to wander abroad. Their -friendship with the whites ended in 1675, however, when King Philip -incited them to join in his war, and the colonists attacked them on a -hill in a pine and cedar swamp near Kingston, west of Narragansett -Bay, where scanty remains still exist of their fortifications. It was -in December, amid the winter snows, and after a furious struggle their -wigwams were fired, and in the most blinding confusion a band of -warriors dashed out and covered the retreat of fully three thousand of -their people, leaving the whites in possession. Both sides had heavy -losses, but the result was the scattering and final annihilation of -the tribe. This was the famous "Fort Fight in Narragansett," of which -the memorial of the Connecticut Legislature says, "The bitter cold, -the tarled swamp, the tedious march, the strong fort, the numerous and -stubborn enemy they contended with for their God, King and country, -be their trophies over death." - -To the westward, beyond the Rhode Island border, lived Uncas, the -enemy of Miantonomoh. His domain extended to the river Thames, and he -had been a chief of the Pequots, who revolted in 1634 against the -Sachem Sassacus and joined the Mohicans, being chosen their chief -sachem. He was friendly to the colonists, and by sagacious alliances -with them increased the power of his tribe, which had previously been -in a relatively subordinate position. He helped defeat the Pequots, -and became so strong that he was described as the "most powerful and -prosperous prince in New England." He sold the shores of the Thames -River to the whites, reserving a small tract on the river bank, and in -1660 disposed of the present site of Norwich, Connecticut, to a -nomadic church from Saybrook, for £70. He held his people friendly to -the colonists, even in King Philip's war, frequently visited their -capitals at Hartford and Boston, and after reigning nearly fifty -years, died in 1683. He is described as crafty, cruel and rapacious, -but, as the head of a savage people, far-sighted and sagacious; -skillful and fearless as a military leader. His holding aloof from the -Indian alliances adverse to the colonists and fighting with the whites -against the powerful hostile tribes, are regarded as having really -saved colonial New England. His quarrel with Miantonomoh resulted in -the battle of Sachem's Plain, on the outskirts of Norwich, in 1643. -This was then a Mohican village, and Miantonomoh marched to attack it -with nine hundred Narragansetts, Uncas defending with five hundred -warriors. By a preconcerted plan, Uncas invited him to a parley, and -while it was going on, and the Narragansetts were off their guard, the -Mohicans made a sudden onslaught, defeating and pursuing them for a -long distance. Hundreds of the Narragansetts were slain, and -Miantonomoh, being captured, was taken prisoner to the English at -Hartford. He was ultimately surrendered back to Uncas, who took him -again to the Sachem's Plain, where he was put to death, the historian -says, "by the advice and consent of the English magistrates and -elders." A monument marks the place of execution, inscribed -"Miantonomoh, 1643." His son, Nanunteno, who succeeded, led the tribe -into King Philip's war, as he hated the colonists, and being captured, -he declined to treat with them for a pardon, saying, when threatened -with death, "I like it well; I shall die before my heart is soft or I -have spoken anything unworthy of myself," whereupon he was shot. He -was "acting herein," says old Cotton Mather, "as if, by a Pythagorean -metempsychosis, some old Roman ghost had possessed the body of this -Western Pagan, like Attilius Regulus." - -A few miles south of Norwich is the ancient fortress of Uncas on a -hill, and a handful of weak half-breeds are all that remain of his -famous people. In the city, on Sachem Street, near the Yantic Falls, -is a little cemetery in a cluster of pine trees. This, centuries ago, -was the burial-place of the Mohican chiefs, and the whole line of -sachems is here interred, down to the last of them, Mazeen, buried in -1826 in the presence of a small remnant of the tribe. Ancient stones -mark their graves, and in the centre is an obelisk in memory of Uncas, -of which President Andrew Jackson laid the foundation-stone. The -Yantic and Shetucket Rivers unite at Norwich to form the Thames, and -the town has arisen around their admirable water-powers, which serve -many mills. The city has about twenty thousand people, being in a -beautiful situation between and on the acclivities adjoining the two -rivers. The praises of the Yantic Falls were sung by Mrs. Sigourney -and others, but their glory has departed, for the stream has been -diverted into another channel, leaving a deep cutting in the hard -rock, the bottom filled with curiously-piled and water-worn boulders. - - -ASCENDING NARRAGANSETT BAY. - -On the western shore of Narragansett Bay, just inside of Point Judith, -stood the little fishing village of Narragansett Pier, originally -named from its ancient, sea-battered and ruined pier, built for a -breakwater in early times, which has since become one of the most -fashionable New England coast resorts, having many large hotels -spreading in imposing array along the shore. The smooth sands of its -bathing-beach look out upon Newport far over the bay and behind -Conanicut Island in front. Upon the southern border of this beach -there are precipitous cliffs against which the Atlantic Ocean breakers -dash, the last rocks on the coast of the United States until the -Florida reefs are reached. The famous Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry -was a native of this town, born in 1785, a midshipman in the war with -Tripoli, and the victor in the naval battle on Lake Erie in 1813. His -brother, Commodore M. C. Perry, born in Newport in 1794, commanded the -noted expedition to Japan in 1852-54, and concluded the treaty with -that country, cementing the friendly relations with the United States -ever since existing. The celebrated portrait painter Gilbert Stuart -was also a native of this place, born in 1755, his portrait of -Washington being regarded as the best existing. The western shores of -the bay north of the Pier are lined with coast resorts. Here is quaint -old Wickford, on Coweset Bay, which has a ferry twelve miles across to -Newport, and still exhibits the "Rolling Rock," where Canonicus and -Roger Williams are said to have signed their compact, and the old -Blockhouse built for a defense in 1641. Farther northward is the -ancient Shawomet, whither Samuel Gorton came, changing its name to Old -Warwick in honor of his friend and patron, the Earl of Warwick. It -appears that Gorton, a layman, who had a penchant for theological -disputation, made himself obnoxious to the Plymouth Puritans in the -early colonial time, and they banished him in 1637. He went to Newport -and expressed his opinions too freely, and was banished thence in -1641. Wandering to Providence, he was driven from there to Cranston, -nearby, the next year, and again expelled from Cranston a few months -later, and he finally settled at Shawomet. But they still pursued him, -and in 1643 a detachment of troops came from Boston and took him and -ten others back as prisoners, and they were tried and sentenced as -"damnable heretics" to banishment from America. Gorton sought -Warwick's protection, and the Earl sent him back to Shawomet, where he -lived undisturbed, but, after changing its name, spent the rest of his -life in publishing pamphlets attacking Massachusetts and Rhode Island, -among them being the "Antidote Against Pharisaic Teachers" and -"Simplicitie's Defence against Seven-Headed Policy." The next thing of -note occurring in Warwick was the disfranchisement, in 1652, of the -clerk of the unfortunate town on seven charges: first, calling the -officers of the town rogues and thieves; second, calling all the town -rogues and thieves; third, threatening to kill all the mares in town, -etc. In 1676 the Indians attacked and burnt it, and since, it has had -little history. General Greene was a native of Warwick, born in 1742. - -In sailing up Narragansett Bay, one is struck with the universality -of the prolific crop of these waters,--the clam. Many of the -inhabitants seem to spend much of their time gathering them; men and -boys in boats are dredging all the coves and shallows for the clams, -seizing enormous numbers by the skillful use of their handy double -rakes. These people are proud of their home institution, the Rhode -Island "clam-bake," which is a main-stay of all the shore resorts, and -is considered a connecting link, binding them to the Narragansetts, -who originated it. To properly conduct the "clam-bake" a wood fire is -built in the open air, upon a layer of large stones, and when these -are sufficiently heated, the embers and ashes are swept off, the hot -stones covered with sea-weed, and clams in the shells, with other -delicacies, put upon it, being enveloped by masses of sea-weed and -sail-cloths to keep in the steam. The clams are thus baked by the -heated stones, and steamed and seasoned by the moisture from the salt -sea-weed. The coverings are then removed, the clams opened, and the -feasting begins. With appetite whetted by the delicious breezes coming -over the bright waters of the bay, the meal is relished beyond -description. There are millions of clams thus consumed, but their -growth is enormous, and the supply seems perennial. The chief of these -places is Rocky Point, a forest-covered promontory, the favorite -resort of the population of the Rhode Island capital, where the -"clam-bakes" have acquired great fame. - - -ROGER WILLIAMS. - -There flows southeastward out of Massachusetts the Blackstone River -into Rhode Island, and going over Pawtucket Falls it then becomes for -a brief space the Pawtucket River, and finally, at its mouth, the -Seeconk River, making part of Providence harbor and one of the heads -of Narragansett Bay. The shores of this river swarm with industrial -operatives, for its valley is one of the greatest regions of textile -mills in the world, and half the people of Rhode Island live in the -chief city on its banks, Providence. Nine centuries ago the Norsemen -are said to have sailed up into this region, which they called -Vinland, but the first settlement was not made until 1636. The brave -and pious Welshman, Roger Williams, the heretical Salem preacher whom -the Puritans in 1635 banished from Massachusetts, went afoot through -the forest to the Seeconk Plains along the lower Blackstone River, and -halting there, lived with the Narragansetts, who were always his firm -friends. But the wrathful Puritans would not long permit this, and -ordered him to move on, so that in the spring of 1636, with five -companions, he embarked in a log canoe and floated down the Seeconk -River, his movements being watched by Indian groups upon the banks. He -crossed over the stream finally, and landed on what has since been -called "What Cheer Rock," on the eastern edge of Providence, thus -named because, when Williams stepped ashore, some of the Indians -saluted him with the pleasant greeting, "What cheer, Notop?" -(friend)--words that are still carefully preserved throughout -Providence and the State in the names of banks, buildings, and various -associations. He regarded this as a decidedly good omen, and started a -settlement, calling it Providence, "in grateful acknowledgment of -God's merciful providence to him in his distress." His exalted piety -was beyond question, and not only is the religious spirit in which the -city was founded indicated by its name, but even in the titles of the -streets are incorporated the cardinal virtues and the higher emotions, -as in Joy Street, Faith Street, Happy Street, Hope Street, Friendship -Street, Benefit Street, Benevolent Street, and many more. We are told -that his early colonists adopted the Indian foods, such as parched -corn, which the aborigines called "anhuminea," from which has come the -name of hominy, and the famous Narragansett mixture of corn and beans, -the "m'sickquatash," which has become succotash. - -Roger Williams in Rhode Island, in 1639, became a Baptist, and the -"Society of the First Baptist Church," which he founded that year in -Providence, claims to be the oldest Baptist organization in America. -But Williams seems to have been somewhat unstable, for he only -remained with this church as pastor four years, then withdrawing, as -he had grave doubts of the validity of his own baptism. It appears -that when this church was started, a layman, Ezekiel Holliman, first -baptized Williams, and then Williams baptized Holliman and the others. -When he withdrew, it was not only from the pastoral relation, but he -ceased worshipping with the brethren, and his conscientious scruples -finally brought him to the conclusion that there is "no regularly -constituted church on earth, nor any person authorized to administer -any church ordinance, nor could there be until new apostles were sent -by the great Head of the Church, for whose coming he was seeking." -During many years thereafter he held his religious meetings in a -grove. This venerable Baptist society which Roger Williams founded -built a new church in 1726, and in its honor they had a "grand -dinner." The elaborate banquet of those primitive days consisted of -the whole congregation dining upon one sheep, one pound of butter, two -loaves of bread, and a peck of peas, at a cost of twenty-seven -shillings. Their white wooden church, with its surmounting steeple, -overlooks the city from a slope rising above Providence River. - - -THE CITY OF PROVIDENCE. - -Providence is beautifully situated on the hills at the head of -Narragansett Bay, and its centre is a fine new Union Railway Station, -completed in 1897. Near by is the massive City Hall, one of the chief -public buildings in Rhode Island, a granite structure costing -$1,500,000. In high relief upon its front is a medallion bust of the -founder of the little State, Roger Williams, wearing the typical -sugar-loaf hat. A feature of this impressive building is the -magnificent stair-hall, lighted from above; and from the surmounting -tower there is a wide view over the city and suburbs, and far down the -bay towards the ocean. In front is the public square, with a stately -Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument of blue Westerly granite, bearing the -names of nearly seventeen hundred men of Rhode Island who fell in the -Civil War, and guarded by well-executed bronze statues representing -the different arms of the service. Facing it is a statue in heroic -bronze of the Rhode Island General Burnside, who died in 1881. These -works are artistic, but the priceless art gem in Providence is the -exquisite little picture of "The Hours," painted on a sheet of ivory -six by seven inches, in London, by the great portrait and miniature -painter, Edward Greene Malbone, of Newport--the three Grecian nymphs, -Eunomia, Dice and Irene, representing the Past, Present and Future. -The President of the Royal Academy said of it, "I have seen a picture, -painted by a young man of the name of Malbone, which no man in England -could excel." This is his masterpiece, one of the most admired -paintings in America, and is kept carefully in the Athenæum (to which -it was presented by a public subscription in 1853), a solid little -granite house built on the hillside, not far from the Baptist church. - -Farther up this hill are the campus and rows of buildings of Brown -University, the great Rhode Island Baptist College with seven hundred -students, founded in 1764, and bearing the name of one of the leading -families of the wealthy manufacturing house of Brown & Ives. The -campus is shaded with fine old elms, and some of the newer buildings -are handsome and elaborate structures. Around this university, and all -through the extensive suburbs, are the splendid homes of the -capitalists and mill-owners of the State, who have made this hill, -rising between the Providence and Seeconk Rivers, the most attractive -residential section. Benefit Street, on the hill, is lined with the -palaces of these textile millionaires. Providence is, in fact, a city -of many hills, and its houses are mostly of wood. Extensive sections -can be traversed without seeing a single brick or stone building. -There is a large railway traffic, but only a small trade by sea, -beyond bringing coal and cotton, though the city formerly enjoyed an -extensive China trade. Like all the Rhode Island towns it has many -mills and much wealth, and there are thirty or forty banks to take -care of its money. Besides textiles, its mills make locomotives and -Corliss steam-engines, silverware and jewelry, cigars, rifles and -stoves, gimlet-pointed wood-screws, tortoise-shell work and cocoanut -dippers, cottonseed and peanut oils, and many other things, not -overlooking the famous "Pain-killer," for the ills of humanity, which -is consumed by the hundred thousand gallons in all parts of the world. -The "Pain-killer" factory was always one of the lions of the town, -although now the new Rhode Island State House, finished in 1898, also -commands great public admiration. This is a huge dome-surmounted -building in Renaissance, constructed of Georgia marble and pink -granite. But Providence, above everything else, reveres the memory of -Roger Williams, who died in 1683, and is interred in the old North -Burying Ground. On Abbott Street is carefully preserved, as a precious -relic, a small old house with quaint peaked roof, built in the -seventeenth century, and reverenced as the place where he held some of -his religious meetings. His bronze statue ornaments the Roger Williams -Park to which Broad Street leads, a beautiful tract of about one -hundred acres, surrounding the quaint gambrel-roofed house in which -lived his great-great-granddaughter, Betsy Williams, for many years, -who gave this domain to the city in 1871, as her tribute to his -memory. Here are refreshments served at "What Cheer Cottage." But the -most treasured memorial of the founder is his original landing-place -of "What Cheer Rock," where the Indians greeted him alongside the -Seeconk River,--a pile of slaty rocks, enclosed by a railing, near the -foot of Williams Street, down by the waterside. - - -PROVIDENCE TO WORCESTER. - -We ascend the Seeconk River to Pawtucket, about five miles distant, a -busy manufacturing town of thirty thousand people, noted as the place -where Samuel Slater introduced the cotton manufacture into the United -States in 1790, the original Slater mill still standing. The Pawtucket -Falls of fifty feet give the valuable water-power which has made the -place, and here are some of the greatest thread factories in the -world. The town extends up into the villages of Central and Valley -Falls, and the enormous power furnished by the river is drawn upon at -different levels from several dams. All sorts of cotton textiles, -muslins and calicoes are made, and the slopes running up from the -valley, with the plateaus above, are covered with the operatives' -houses. This town has the most attractive situation on the Blackstone -River, which here changes its name to the Pawtucket, and finally to -the Seeconk. Samuel Slater, who started it, was a native of Belper, in -Derbyshire, England, having worked there for both Strutt and -Arkwright, the fathers of the textile industries. Learning that -American bounties had been offered for the introduction of Arkwright's -patents in cotton-spinning, he crossed the ocean, landing at Newport -in 1789. Here he heard that Moses Brown had attempted cotton-spinning -by machinery in Rhode Island. He wrote Brown, telling what he could -do, and received a reply in which Brown said his attempt had been -unsuccessful, and added: "If thou canst do this thing, I invite thee -to come to Rhode Island and have the credit and the profit of -introducing cotton manufacture into America." Slater went to -Pawtucket, and on December 21, 1790, he started three carding-machines -and spinning-frames of seventy-two spindles. He afterwards became very -prominent, building large mills at Pawtucket and elsewhere, and the -impetus thus given the place made it the leading American -manufacturing centre for a half-century. The Indian name of the falls -was retained by the city. - -The Blackstone River was named after the recluse Anglican clergyman, -Rev. William Blackstone, who, as heretofore stated, first settled -Boston about 1625. When he found, after a brief experience, that he -could not get on with the Puritan colonists, who came in there too -numerously, he sold out and "retired into the wilderness." He wandered -for over forty miles into the forests, and during more than forty -years made his home on the banks of this stream among the Indians, not -far above Pawtucket Falls. He lived there in his hermit home at Study -Hill among his books, the river rushing by, and the Providence and -Worcester Branch of the New Haven Consolidated Railroad now cuts its -route deeply through his hill, running among the dams, and in some -cases over them, on its way up the busy valley of this very crooked -river. Its waters, which do such good service for so many mills, -become more and more polluted as they descend, so that its lower -course is a malodorous and dark-colored stream. The river is about -forty-five miles long, rising in the hills adjacent to Worcester and -flowing in winding reaches towards the southeast, descending over five -hundred feet to Providence. The mills, however, have grown vastly -beyond its capacity as a water-power, so that auxiliary steam is now -largely used. Numerous ponds and other feeders accumulate a vast -amount of water for the Blackstone in Southern Massachusetts, and its -lower course for nearly thirty miles is a succession of dams, canals -and mills, making one of the greatest factory districts in existence. -Over a half-million people work and live in this busy valley, the -operatives being chiefly French Canadians, Swedes, and the various -British races, the French preponderating in some of the towns. The -Yankees long ago left, seeking better pay elsewhere, being replaced by -a more contented people satisfied to work in mills. Most of the huge -factories lining the river are owned by wealthy corporations having -their head offices in Boston or Providence, and it is said that, the -buildings being without signs or names, many of the operatives -actually do not know who they work for. These mills are four and five -stories high, often a thousand feet long, with hundreds of windows and -ponderous stairway-towers. - -Ascending the river, the factory settlements of Lonsdale, Ashton, -Albion and Manville are passed, and we come to Woonsocket Hill, one of -the highest in Rhode Island. Here the river goes around various bends -admirably arranged for conducting its waters through the mills, and -the town of Woonsocket is built where twenty thousand people make -cotton and woollen cloths, the noted "Harris cassimere" having been -long the chief manufacture at the Social Mills. To the northward, -Woonsocket spreads into the towns of Blackstone and Waterford, also -industrial hives; and finally, having followed the river up to its -sources, the route leads to Worcester, the second city of -Massachusetts, forty-five miles west of Boston, styled the "heart of -the Commonwealth," with a population of over one hundred thousand -people. Its chief newspaper, the _Massachusetts Spy_, is noted as -having actually started as a spy upon the royalists in the exciting -times preceding the Revolutionary War, and is still a prosperous -publication. It was at a Worcester banquet in 1776 that the "Sons of -Freedom" drank the noted toast: "May the freedom and independence of -America endure till the sun grows dim with age and this earth returns -to chaos; perpetual itching without the benefit of scratching to the -enemies of America!" Worcester is a great manufacturing city, but has -almost lost its New England population from the steady Yankee -migration westward, they being replaced in its numerous mills by -French Canadians, Swedes and Irish, the latter predominating. It has a -noble Soldiers' Monument, a splendid railway station, and the fine -buildings of the Massachusetts Lunatic Asylum standing on the highest -hill in the suburbs. Its new white marble City Hall, completed in -1898, is an imposing edifice. The huge Washburn & Moen Wire Works are -on Salisbury Pond, in the outskirts. Among the interesting old -dwellings is the Bancroft House, where the historian, George Bancroft, -was born, in 1800, dying in 1891. The great attraction of Worcester is -Lake Quinsigamond, on the eastern verge, a long, deep, narrow loch, -stretching among the hills four miles away, with little gems of -islands and villa-bordered shores. Scattered over the distant rim of -enclosing hills are several typical Yankee villages, with their -church-spires set against the horizon. Worcester had a chequered -colonial career, the Indians repeatedly driving out the early -settlers, until they built a fortress-like church on the Common, where -each man attended on the Sabbath, carrying his musket. These resolute -colonists were Puritans, bent on enforcing their own ideas, for when a -few Scotch Presbyterians came in 1720, and built a church of that -creed, it was declared a "cradle of heresy" and demolished. A -considerable number of the French Acadians, exiled from Nova Scotia in -the eighteenth century, came to Worcester, and their descendants are -now among its prominent people. - -New England, as is well known, was forced to adopt manufacturing, -because the inhabitants could not extract a living from the soil. It -is difficult to say where is the most sterile region, but in -Massachusetts it seems to be generally agreed that the town of Ware, -on the Ware River, northwest of Worcester, is hard to beat in this -respect. It is a picturesquely located mill-village, with a soil that -is stony and sterile. The original grant of the land was made to -soldiers as a reward for bravery in King Philip's War. They thankfully -accepted the gift and went there, but after examination left, and sold -all their domain at the rate of about two cents an acre. President -Dwight, of Yale College, rode through the town, but never wanted to -see it again, saying regretfully, in describing the land: "It is like -self-righteousness; the more a man has of it, the poorer he is." -Someone wrote a poem describing the creation of the place, of which -this a specimen stanza: - - "Dame Nature once, while making land, - Had refuse left of stone and sand. - She viewed it well, then threw it down - Between Coy's Hill and Belchertown, - And said, 'You paltry stuff, lie there, - And make a town, and call it Ware.'" - - -MOUNT HOPE BAY. - -On the northeastern verge of Narragansett Bay is Mount Hope Bay, its -shores attractive alike in lovely scenery and the most interesting -tradition. It is also a region of most venerable antiquity in -America. Hither came the ancient Norsemen Vikings, who explored it, -and sojourned there almost a thousand years ago. These wandering -Norsemen, early colonizing Iceland and Greenland, are said to have -discovered the mainland of North America in the tenth century, the -energetic Leif, a son of Eric the Red, afterwards, in the year 1001, -sailing along the American coast, and finding first, Helluland, or the -"Flat Land," supposed to be Newfoundland, then Mark Land, or the "Wood -Land," now Nova Scotia, and Vinland, or the "Vine Land," being the -coasts of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and wintering in -Narragansett and Mount Hope Bays. The next year Leif's brother, -Thorvald, came along these coasts with thirty men, and also passed a -winter in Mount Hope Bay. The following season he sent a party of -explorers hither, and in the year 1004 he again came personally, and -was killed in a skirmish with the Indians, his companions returning to -Greenland. There seem to have been subsequent Norsemen visits, and the -name of Vinland was given by them on account of the profusion of vines -growing on the shores and islands, which was a novelty to these -wanderers from the far north. - -Mount Hope Bay is the broadening estuary of Taunton Great River, and -the elongated peninsula of Bristol Neck divides it from Narragansett -Bay to the westward, stretching up to Providence. Upon Taunton Great -River is a magnificent water-power which has produced the success of -Taunton, a busy manufacturing town of thirty thousand people, where -they make locomotives and tacks, bricks, screws and britannia ware, -its name coming from Taunton in Somersetshire, its founder having been -Elizabeth Pool, a pious Puritan lady of that place. When the first -settlers explored the river they made a wonderful antiquarian -discovery. Upon the shore, below Taunton, and opposite what are now -the gardens and pleasure-grounds of Dighton, was found the famous -"Writing Rock," lying partly submerged by the waterside, and when the -tide is out, presenting a smooth face slightly inclined towards the -river. It is a large greenstone boulder, the color changed to dusky -red by the elements, and it now has the faint impression of -hieroglyphics on its surface that have been almost effaced by the -action of the water. In the early colonial days these marks were very -distinct, and even after the beginning of the nineteenth century they -could be plainly distinguished from the deck of a passing vessel. -These inscriptions on the Dighton rock excited much wonder, and were -generally attributed to the Norsemen. Old Cotton Mather described it, -saying that among the "curiosities of New England, one is that of a -mighty rock, on a perpendicular side whereof, by a river which at high -tide covers part of it, there are very deeply engraved, no man alive -knows how or when, about half a score lines, near ten foot long and a -foot and a half broad, filled with strange characters." Another -learned man speaks of them as "Punic inscriptions which remain to this -day," made by the Phoenicians. Below, and near Fall River, many -years ago, there was exhumed a skeleton in sitting posture, wearing a -brass breast-plate and a belt of brass armor. Much marvel resulted -from this important discovery, which was thought to have produced a -veritable dead Viking, and it is said to have inspired Longfellow's -poem of "The Skeleton in Armor": - - "Speak! speak! thou fearful guest! - Who, with thy hollow breast - Still in rude armor drest, - Comest to daunt me! - - "Wrapt not in Eastern balms, - But with thy fleshless palms - Stretched, as if asking alms, - Why dost thou haunt me?" - -Thus he answers: - - "I was a Viking old! - My deeds, though manifold, - No Skald in song has told, - No Saga taught thee! - - "Take heed, that in thy verse, - Thou dost the tale rehearse, - Else dread a dead man's curse; - For this I sought thee." - -And then the poet unfolds his weird and romantic history. Despite the -Norsemen traditions, however, it is regarded as more probable that -both the hieroglyphics and the skeleton were of Indian origin. - - -KING PHILIP. - -Upon the western shore of Mount Hope Bay is the town of Bristol, -quiet, with wide, grassy, tree-shaded streets leading down to the -waterside, now a pleasant summer-resort, having a ferry over to Fall -River. Farther up the peninsula is Warren, with its factories. In -Bristol rises the splendid isolated eminence of Mount Hope, which -gives the bay its name. Its rounded summit is a mass of quartzite -rock, almost covered by grass. It is hardly three hundred feet high, -but being the most elevated spot anywhere around, has a grand outlook, -every town in Rhode Island being visible from it, and all the islands -of Narragansett Bay, while far to the southward, upon distant -Aquidneck, Newport gleams in the sunlight. Eastward, across Mount Hope -Bay, the city of Fall River, with its rising terraces of huge granite -mills, is built apparently into the sloping side of a ledge of rocks. -Upon this mountain lived the famous chief, King Philip, and from it, -with his warrior band, he sallied forth to carry slaughter and rapine -among the Puritan settlements. The eastern side of Mount Hope falls -off precipitously to the bay, and when he was finally surprised by the -colonists in his lair, he is said to have rolled down this steep -declivity like a barrel. The mountain top is now known as "King -Philip's Seat;" there is a natural excavation in the mountain side, -called "King Philip's Throne;" and from the foot the waters of -"Philip's Spring" flow away, a little purling brook, out to Taunton -River. One disgruntled early colonial annalist described the place as -"Philip's Sty at Mount Hope." The greatest tradition of this region -tells of the ambush, surprise and death of this famous sachem, the -"Last of the Wampanoags." - -The name of Wampanoag means "the men of the East Land," or the Indians -to the eastward of Narragansett Bay. When the Pilgrims landed at -Plymouth, the noted Massasoit was the Grand Sachem of the Wampanoags, -or Pokanokets, whose territory embraced most of the country from -Narragansett Bay to Cape Cod. The tribe had previously numbered thirty -thousand, but a pestilence had reduced them to a small figure, barely -three hundred, not long before the arrival of the "Mayflower." -Massasoit felt his weakness and made friends with the colonists, his -treaties of peace being faithfully kept for a half-century. The old -sachem lived north of Mount Hope, at Sowamset, now the town of Warren, -where his favorite "Massasoit Spring" still pours out its libations. -He died in 1661, at the age of eighty, leaving two sons, Mooanum and -Metacomet. Shortly after his death, these sons went to Plymouth to -confirm the treaties with the whites, and were so much pleased with -their reception that they asked to be given English names. The -colonial court accordingly conferred upon them the names of Alexander -and Philip. The former was chief sachem, but died within a year, -Philip succeeding. During the next decade he lived in comparative -friendliness, but was always unsatisfied and restless. He grew to -distrust the colonists, and never could be made to comprehend their -religion. When John Eliot, the Indian apostle, who converted so many, -preached before him, Philip pulled a button off Eliot's doublet, -saying in contempt that he valued it more than the discourse, a remark -which led pious old Cotton Mather to exclaim, in horror, "the -monster!" It was not long before the peaceful relations were broken, -and, after 1671, Philip travelled among the tribes throughout New -England, exciting them to a crusade against the colonists, and forming -a powerful league, including the Narragansetts, who had been friendly. -The result was the most desolating Indian war from which the colonies -ever suffered. The whites were everywhere attacked, but made heroic -defense, and in 1675-6 they defeated all the tribes, the Narragansetts -and Wampanoags being practically annihilated. - - -KING PHILIP'S DEATH. - -Defeated, and left without resources, the savage king was then hunted -from one place to another, finally seeking refuge in his eyrie on -Mount Hope, with a handful of followers. Here Captain Church attacked -him, and on August 12, 1676, he was killed by a bullet fired by an -Indian. In Church's annals of that terrible war the story is told of -the death of this chief, the last of his line. Philip was ambushed and -completely surprised on the mountain, and running away, rolled down -its side, the Indians trying to escape through a swamp at the foot. -The attacking party was posted around the swamp in couples, hidden -from view. Philip, partly clad, ran directly towards two of the -ambush, an Englishman and an Indian. The former fired, but missed him; -then the Indian fired twice, sending one bullet through his heart and -the other not more than two inches from it. Philip fell dead upon his -face in the mud and water; most of his companions escaped. In Church's -recital is told what followed: - -"Captain Church ordered Philip's body to be pulled out of the mire on -to the upland. So some of Captain Church's Indians took hold of him by -his stockings, and some by his small breeches, being otherwise naked, -and drew him through the mud to the upland; and a doleful, great, -naked, dirty beast he looked like. Captain Church then said that, -forasmuch as he had caused many an Englishman's body to lie unburied -and rot above ground, not one of his bones should be buried. And, -calling his old executioner, bid him behead and quarter him. -Accordingly he came with his hatchet and stood over him, but before he -struck, he made a small speech, directing it to Philip, and said 'he -had been a very great man, and had made many a man afraid of him, but -so big as he was, he would now chop him in pieces.' And so went to -work and did as he was ordered. Philip having one very remarkable -hand, being very much scarred, occasioned by the splitting of a pistol -in it formerly, Captain Church gave the head and that hand to -Aldermon, the Indian who shot him, to show to such gentlemen as would -bestow gratuities upon him, and accordingly he got many a penny by it. -This being on the last day of the week, the Captain with his company -returned to the island (Aquidneck), tarried there until Tuesday, and -then went off and ranged through all the woods to Plymouth, and -received their premium, which was 30 shillings per head for the -enemies which they had killed or taken, instead of all wages, and -Philip's head went at the same price. Methinks it is scanty reward and -poor encouragement, though it was better than what had been some time -before. For this much they received four shillings and sixpence a man, -which was all the reward they had, except the honor of killing -Philip." - -When the party brought Philip's head to Plymouth, the Puritan meeting -was celebrating a solemn thanksgiving, and quoting, again, the words -of old Cotton Mather, "God sent them in the head of a leviathan for a -thanksgiving feast." This head was exposed on a gibbet at Plymouth for -twenty years, as the arch-enemy of the colony. But things were -different afterwards. The "monster" of the seventeenth century became -a martyr in the nineteenth century. Irving wrote King Philip's -biography; Southey was his bard; and Edwin Forrest nobly impersonated -him. Thus the great Metacomet, in the light of history, is regarded as -sinned against as well as sinning, for he was trying to drive the -invader from his native land. The resistless westward march of the -white man overcame him, the first of a long line of famous Indians to -fall in front of American colonization. - - -FALL RIVER. - -Across Mount Hope Bay is Fall River, in Massachusetts, now the leading -American city in cotton-spinning and the manufacture of print cloths. -Its huge granite mills stand in ranks, like the platoons of a marching -regiment, upon the successive rising terraces of the eastern shore. -Nestling among the hills above the town are the extensive Watuppa -ponds, long and narrow lakes, spreading eight or ten miles back upon -the higher plateau. These, with other tributary ponds, cover about -twelve square miles surface, discharging through a comparatively small -stream, yet one carrying a large volume of water. This is the Fall -River, dammed at the outlet of the ponds, and barely two miles long, -but running so steeply down hill that within about eight hundred yards -distance it descends one hundred and thirty-six feet, thus being -appropriately named, and in turn giving its name to the town gathered -around this admirable water-power. The mills, however, have grown so -far beyond the ability of the water-wheels that they now run chiefly -by steam, and Fall River has a population approximating one hundred -thousand. The prolific granite quarries in the surrounding hills have -furnished the stone for these imposing mills, and also for the chief -buildings. Although a New England manufacturing city of the first -rank, it is not a Yankee settlement, for the operatives are chiefly -English, Irish, Welsh and French Canadians. When the settlement began, -it was called Freetown, and afterwards Troy, but the name of the -stream finally became so popular that the others were discarded, and -Fall River was adopted officially upon its incorporation as a city. -The rocky environment enabled it to cheaply construct the grand mill -buildings, and thus had much to do with its success. - - -NEWPORT OF AQUIDNECK. - -The eastern side of Narragansett Bay is chiefly occupied by Aquidneck, -or Rhode Island, upon which is the queen of American seaside resorts, -Newport. Aquidneck is the Indian "Isle of Peace," the word literally -meaning "floating on the water," and its southwestern extremity -broadens into a wide peninsula of almost level and quite fertile land, -making a plateau elevated about fifty feet above the sea. The island -is fifteen miles long and from three to four miles wide, and this -plateau rests upon rock, the strata making cliffs all around it, with -coves worked into them by the waters, presenting smooth sand beaches -having intervening bold promontories. The southeastern border of this -plateau, facing the Atlantic, has an irregular front of little bays -and projections, with the waves dashing against the bases of the -cliffs and among the rocks profusely strewn beyond them. Behind the -western extremity of the island is Brenton's Point, projecting in such -a way as to protect the inner harbor of Newport. Here are the wharves, -facing the westward, and the ancient part of the town, its narrow -streets and older houses covering considerable surface. The harbor is -protected by a breakwater, and beyond is Conanicut Island. This was -"Charming Newport of Aquidneck," as the colonial histories recorded -it, then a leading seaport of New England. Thames Street, fronting it, -was, in the eighteenth century, one of the busiest highways of -America. Protecting the harbor entrance, upon Brenton's Point, is Fort -Adams, which was a formidable fortification before modern-gunnery -improvements superseded the old systems, and, next to Fortress Monroe, -it is the largest defensive work in the United States, having -accommodations for a garrison of three thousand men. It was built -during the Presidency of John Adams, and named for him, being then -hurried to completion as a defense against French attacks, war with -that country seeming to be imminent, and the French particularly -desiring to possess Newport. All around the ancient town, and -spreading over the plateau, to which the surface slopes upward in -gentle ascent from the harbor, is the modern Newport of the American -nineteenth century multi-millionaires. From the older town, southward -across the plateau, stretches the chief street, Bellevue Avenue, -through the fashionable residential district. - -William Coddington, whose name is preserved in various ways, but whose -descendants are said to have been degenerate, founded Newport. He led -a band of dissenters from the Puritan church in Massachusetts and -bought Aquidneck from the Indians, starting his colony in 1639. Most -of the earlier settlers, in fact, were people of various religious -sects driven out of the strictly Puritan New England towns. Having -abandoned England because they objected to a State Church, we are told -that the Puritans forthwith proceeded to set up in Massachusetts what -was very like a State Church of their own, and soon made it hot for -the unbelievers. They drove out both William Blackstone and Roger -Williams. Blackstone, when he had to go over the border and establish -his hermitage at Study Hill on Blackstone River, said: "I came from -England because I did not like the Lords Bishops, but I cannot join -with you, because I would not be under the Lords Brethren." After -Blackstone and Williams, many others came to Rhode Island and settled -at Newport, for there they enjoyed the completest liberty of -conscience. The Quakers were unmolested and came in large numbers; the -Baptists flocked in and built a meeting-house; the Hebrews came, solid -business men, originally from Portugal, and established the first -synagogue in the United States; the sternest doctrines of the -Calvinists were preached; the Moravians held their impressive -love-feasts; and orthodox Churchmen fervently prayed for the English -King. There were all shades of belief, and dissenters of all ilks, and -many having no belief at all, so that the fair town on Aquidneck was -pervaded with such an atmosphere of religious toleration and -cosmopolitan irregularity that it became famous for its sharp contrast -with the stern rigidity of New England. Hence it was not unnatural -that at the opening of the nineteenth century President Dwight should -have declared that an alleged laxity of morals in Stonington was due -to "its nearness to Rhode Island." But despite these peculiarities the -Newport colony got on well, so that the growing settlement on the -"Isle of Peace" in time came to be designated as the "Eden of -America." Dean Berkeley, afterwards Bishop, visited Newport in 1729, -remaining several years, and gave the colony an elevated literary -tone. An Utopian plan for converting the Indians brought him over from -England, but he soon discovered that it was impracticable, and went -back home to become a Bishop. His favorite resort is shown at the part -of the Newport Cliffs called the "Hanging Rocks," and it is said he -there composed his _Alciphron, or the Minute Philosopher_, and the -noble lyric closing with the famous verse proclaiming the patriotic -prophecy which Leutze made the subject of his grand mural painting in -the Capitol at Washington: - - "Westward the course of empire takes its way." - - -NEWPORT DEVELOPMENT. - -Newport, before the Revolution, was a most important seaport. When -Dean Berkeley was there it had about forty-five hundred inhabitants, -and they had grown to twelve thousand when the Revolution began. The -preceding half-century was the era of its greatest maritime -prosperity, when Newport ships circumnavigated the globe. The -salubrity of the climate and advantages of the harbor providing safe -anchorage but a few miles from the ocean attracted many merchants and -a large trade, and in those days the Quakers and the Hebrews were the -leading citizens. In 1770 Boston alone surpassed Newport in the extent -of its trade, which then was much greater than that of New York. It -was about this time that a visitor to New York wrote back to the -_Newport Mercury_ that "at its present rate of progress, New York will -soon be as large as Newport." The Revolutionary War, however, almost -ruined the town, and annihilated its commerce. The port was at first -held by the English, and afterwards by the French, both battering and -maltreating it, so that it emerged from the conflict in a dilapidated -condition, with the population reduced to barely five thousand. The -French learned to love the attractive island, and sought earnestly -after the war to have it annexed to France, in return for the aid -given the Americans, but Washington strongly opposed this and -prevented it. The trade was gone, never to return, the merchants went -away to Providence, New York and Boston, and it existed in quiet and -uneventful neglect until the nineteenth century had made some -progress, when people began seeking its pleasant shores for summer -recreation. In 1840 two hotels were built, and this began the -_renaissance_. The Civil War made vast fortunes, and their owners -sought Newport, and it has since become the great summer home of the -fashionable world of America, where they can, in friendly rivalry, -make the most lavish displays possible for wealth to accomplish at a -seaside resort. - -Unlike most American watering-places, Newport is not an aggregation of -hotels and lodging-houses, but it is pre-eminently a gathering of the -costliest and most elaborate suburban homes this country can show. -Built upon the extensive space surrounding the older town, and between -it and the ocean, south and east, modern Newport is a galaxy of large -and expensive country-houses, each in an enclosure of lawns, -flower-gardens and foliage, highly ornamental and exceedingly well -kept. Many of them are spacious palaces upon which enormous sums have -been expended; and in front of their lawns, for several miles along -the winding brow of the cliffs that fall off precipitously to the -ocean's edge, is laid the noted "Cliff Walk." This is a narrow -footpath at the edge of the greensward that has the waves dashing -against the bases of the rocks supporting it, while inland, beyond the -lawns, are the noble palaces of Newport. Each is a type of different -architecture, and no matter how grand and imposing, each is called a -"cottage." The greatest rivalry has been shown in construction, and -the styles cover all known methods of building--Gothic, Elizabethan, -Tudor, Swiss, Flemish, French, with every sort of ancient house in -Britain or Continental Europe, imitated and improved upon, and in some -cases widely varying systems being condensed together. Some of these -"cottages" have thus become piles of buildings, with all sorts of -porticos, doorways, pavilions, dormers, oriels, bow-windows, bays and -turrets, towers, chimneys, gambrel roofs and gables, the whole being -charmingly elaborated into wide-spreading, imposing and sometimes -astonishing houses. Occasionally the villa is elongated into the -stable, in an extended house, which includes the family, horses, -hounds, domestics and grooms, all living under the same roof. A low -and rambling style of architecture, with many gables and prominent -colors, is the favorite for various Newport cottages. To the southward -of the town are the Ocean Avenue and Ocean Drive, skirting the whole -lower coast of the island for some ten miles, and displaying fine -marine views. - -There have been lavished upon these palaces of Newport, in -construction and decoration, large portions of the greatest incomes of -the multi-millionaires of New York and Boston, and hither they hie to -enjoy the summer and early autumn in a sort of fashionable -semi-seclusion, mingling only in their own sets, and rather resenting -the excursions occasionally made by the plebeian folk into Newport to -look at their displays. These princes of inherited wealth have made -Newport peculiarly their own, and, their expenditures being on a scale -commensurate with their millions, the growth and improvement of the -newer part of the place have been extraordinary. Land in choice -locations is quoted above $50,000 an acre, and a Newport "cottage" -costs $500,000 to $1,000,000 to build, with more for the furnishing. -Once, when I asked what was the qualification necessary to become a -director of one of the great banks of New York, I was told that it was -the ownership of ten shares of stock and a cottage at Newport. The -sense of newness is sometimes impressive in gazing at these Aladdin -palaces, for while the architecture reproduces quaint and ancient -forms, the ancestral ivy does not yet cling to the walls, and the -trees are still young. But there are older sites in Newport, back from -the sea-front, where some of the estates, existing many years, have -smaller and more subdued houses with signs of maturity, where the ivy -broadly spreads and the trees have grown. Some of the foliage-embowered -lanes, leading through the older suburbs, are charming in leafy -richness and make scenes of exquisite rural beauty. - -The Casino is the fashionable centre of Newport, a building in Old -English style, fronting on Bellevue Avenue, having reading-rooms, a -theatre, gardens and tennis-court, and here the band plays in the -season, and there are concerts and balls. During the fashionable -period, Bellevue Avenue is the daily scene of a stately procession of -handsome equipages of all styles, as it is decreed that the great -people of Newport shall always ride when on exhibition, and they thus -pass and repass in the afternoons in splendid review. In the earlier -times the town's chief benefactor was Judah Touro, who gave it Touro -Park. His father was the rabbi of Newport synagogue, which now has no -congregation. Judah spent fifty years in New Orleans amassing a -fortune, which was bequeathed to various charities. He also liberally -aided the fund for building Bunker Hill Monument. The synagogue, with -the beautiful garden adjacent, the Jewish Cemetery, is maintained in -perfect order. Touro Park is a pretty enclosure in the older town, -containing statues of Commodore M. C. Perry and William Ellery -Channing, who were natives of Newport, and a statue of the former's -brother, Commodore Oliver H. Perry, the victor of Lake Erie, is also -at the City Hall, not far away. In Touro Park is the great memorial -around which the antiquarian treasures of this famous place are -clustered, the "Old Stone Mill," a small round tower, overrun with ivy -and supported on pillars between which are arched openings. Its origin -is a mystery, and this is the antiquarian shrine at which Newport -worships. Longfellow tells weirdly of it in his _Skeleton in Armor_, -and some of the wise men suggest that it was built by the Norsemen -when they first came this way and found Vinland so long ago. But the -more practical townsfolk generally incline to the belief that an early -colonist put it up for a windmill to grind corn, the weight of the -evidence appearing to favor the theory that it was erected by Governor -Benedict Arnold, of the colony, who died in 1678, and described it in -his will as "my stone-built wind-will." It is, however, of sufficient -antiquity and mystery to have a halo cast around it, and is the great -relic of the town. The seacoast rocks that make the Newport Cliffs -show some wonderful formations of chasms and spouting rocks. A fine -fleet of yachts is usually in Newport water, and it is a favorite -naval rendezvous, having the Training Station, War College and Torpedo -Station, and a new Naval Hospital. This most famous of American -seaside watering-places has a permanent population approximating -twenty-five thousand, considerably increased by the summer visitors. - - -NEW BEDFORD. - -To the eastward of Narragansett another bay is thrust far up into the -land of Massachusetts, Buzzard's Bay, which almost bisects the great -defensive forearm of Massachusetts, Cape Cod. This bay is thirty miles -long and about seven miles wide. Between it and Narragansett are the -tree-clad hills of the sparsely-settled regions which the Indians -called Aponigansett and Acoaksett, out of which the Acushnet River -runs down to its broadening estuary, now the harbor of New Bedford. -Originally this city was peopled by Quakers of the English Russell -family, of which the Duke of Bedford is the head, so that the colony -was named from his title. A numerous Portuguese migration to the early -settlements has caused one of the suburbs to still retain the name of -Fayal. New Bedford stretches two miles along the western river-bank -and far back upon the gradually ascending surface, and the population, -including the opposite suburb of Fairhaven, numbers seventy thousand. -Early a shipping port, it grew into celebrity with the advance of the -whale fishery, which became its chief industry, and it was then said -to be the wealthiest city in the country in proportion to population, -having in 1854 four hundred and ten whaling ships, with ten thousand -sailors, its fleets patrolling the remotest seas. When this fishery -died out, the people went to manufacturing, and now they have numerous -large mills busily spinning cotton, its noted product being the -Wamsutta muslins. There still remain a few of the little bluff-bowed -and flush-decked old whalers rotting at the wharves, with huge -overhanging davits, and still redolent of oil--the relics of an almost -obsolete industry. The ample fortunes originally gathered in the -fishery enabled the marine aristocracy of the town to build their -stately and comfortable old mansions which now enjoy an honorable -repose in ample grounds along the quiet streets on the higher plateau -back from the river. - -When Samuel de Champlain came into the St. Lawrence River, he wrote -that whales were killed by firing cannon-balls at them, and later -explorers described how the Indians captured them. The colonists early -began the fishery along the New England coasts, and New Bedford sent -out its first ships in 1755. The period of greatest success in whaling -was between 1820 and 1857. The advent of gas and petroleum, financial -reverses, the gradual extermination of the whales, which had been -pursued to the remotest regions, the substitution of steel for -whalebone, and the use of hard rubber, all contributed to the decline -of the business, and it was given its death-blow by the ravages of the -Confederate privateers among the Pacific whaling fleets. Its memory -is kept alive, however, by many romances of the sea, it having -furnished an extensive and interesting literature. Not long ago it was -related that the unfortunate sculptor who had carved the figure-heads -for the whaleships was since compelled to earn a precarious livelihood -by chopping out rude wooden idols for the South Sea islanders. -Acushnet River is dammed in its upper waters, making an immense -reservoir, furnishing power to the extensive mills. The harbor -gradually broadens as it opens into Buzzard's Bay, and Clark's Point -stretches far into the bay, having on the extremity an old-time square -stone fort, with bastions at the corners, formerly the trusted -defender of the harbor and the town, Fort Taber. Now, its only use is -to furnish, on the outer corner, a foundation for a lighthouse -lantern. The whaling fleet it formerly guided is all gone, but now it -is the beacon for an enormous trade in coal, landed here for -distribution by railway throughout New England. Another little stone -fort is also built on the opposite side of the harbor, on a rock at -the lower end of Fairhaven. Outside is the broad surface of the bay, a -noble inland sea, with irregular and generally thinly populated -shores, but with attractions that have drawn to it, in various -localities, a large summer population, with many ornate villas of -modern fashion. Just below Clark's Point is villa-studded Nonquitt, -upon an upland among the undulating hills, where lived General Philip -Sheridan, and to which he was brought home in a United States warship -to die, in July, 1888. They tell us that when the venturesome Norsemen -came along here, the bay was given the name of the Straum Fiord, but -the antiquary is at a loss to find a satisfactory derivation for the -present name of Buzzard's Bay. Far over its waters, as seen from -Clark's Point, is the low, dark, gray forest-clad eastern shore, -stretching down to the distant strait of Wood's Holl, leading out of -the bay into Vineyard Sound. Spread across the bay entrance to the -southward, and protecting it from the open sea, are the Elizabeth -Islands. - - -VINEYARD SOUND. - -After Captain Bartholomew Grosnold had discovered Cape Cod in May, -1602, he coasted along its shores, and coming down into what is known -as Vineyard Sound, found himself in an archipelago of islands. He -halted at the one called "No Man's Land," and gave it the name of -Martha's Vineyard, which is now applied to the largest of these -islands. Who his favorite Martha was, and why she should have been -immortalized, old Bartholomew never told, thus disappointing many -industrious people who have vainly sought the lady's personal history. -"The Vineyard," as it is familiarly called, lies southeast of -Buzzard's Bay, across which is the extended and narrow range of the -Elizabeth Islands, trending far away to the southwestward, and ending -with Cuttyhunk, where the first English spade was driven into New -England soil. It was upon this, the outermost island, that Gosnold -landed and planted his colony, naming it Elizabeth, in honor of his -queen, a title afterwards given the entire range. The island had a -pond in which was a rocky islet, and here, as they feared the Indians, -the colonists built a fort and resided while they gathered a cargo of -sassafras for their ship, that being then a much-prized specific in -Europe. The settlement was brief; frightened by savage threats and -rent by quarrels, they soon abandoned the place, loading their ship -and returning to England disheartened. This settlement antedated by -eighteen years the arrival of the "Mayflower" at Plymouth. - -The Elizabeth group is a range of sixteen islands, stretching in a -long line from the Cape Cod shore for eighteen miles southwest to the -extremity of Cuttyhunk. It makes the southeastern boundary of -Buzzard's Bay, with Martha's Vineyard beyond, there being between them -the long and rather narrow channel of Vineyard Sound. The mariner -going eastward out of Long Island Sound passes Sakonnet Point at the -eastern verge of Narragansett Bay, and finds in front a chain of -beacons posted across the route. Two of these are lightships, marking -reefs to which are given the bucolic names of the "Hen and Chickens" -and the "Sow and Pigs." If the shipmaster wishes to enter Buzzard's -Bay for New Bedford, he sails between these two unromantic shoals, -passing a lightship on either hand, and being further guided by a -lighthouse on the extremity of Cuttyhunk. But if he wishes to follow -the great maritime route to the eastward around Cape Cod, he gives the -"Sow and Pigs" a wide berth to the northward and passes between it and -the splendid flashing red and white beacon on Gay Head, the western -extremity of Martha's Vineyard, south of Cuttyhunk. Gosnold was the -first Englishman who saw the brilliant and variegated coloring of this -remarkable promontory when the sun shone upon it, and appropriately -called it the Gay Head. Its magnificent Fresnel lens, the most -powerful in this region, is elevated one hundred and seventy feet -above the sea, and is thirty miles east of Point Judith. The breadth -of the entrance to Vineyard Sound from this lighthouse across to the -lightship is about seven miles. - -The northeastern extremity of the Elizabeth Islands is Naushon, and -between it and the main land of Cape Cod are the strait and harbor -formerly known to the sailor as Wood's Hole, but now refined into -Wood's Holl, just as "Holmes's Hole," another popular harbor over on -"the Vineyard," has since become Vineyard Haven. Both of these -"holes," and particularly the latter, have always been favorite places -for schooner skippers to run into and avoid adverse winds. The -Elizabeth group has four large islands, the others being small. Narrow -and often tortuous channels separate them. Cuttyhunk is about two and -one-half miles long, and the present successor of Gosnold's -ill-starred colony is a club from New York who have a seaside -establishment there. Not far away, to the northward, is Penikese -Island, covering about one hundred acres, which was formerly the -location of Professor Agassiz's "Summer School of Natural History." -East of Cuttyhunk is Nashawena, three miles long, and next comes -Pasque Island, also the abiding-place of an attractive club -comfortably housed. Naushon is the largest island, eight miles long, -stretching from Pasque almost to Wood's Holl, and having opposite each -other, on its northern and southern shores, two noted harbors of -refuge, the Kettle and Tarpaulin Coves. Upon Naushon, early in the -nineteenth century, lived James Bowdoin, the diplomatist and -benefactor of Bowdoin College in Maine, which was named for his -father. Naushon is a very pretty island, and was described in those -days by a distinguished English lady traveller as "a little pocket -America, a liliputian Western world, a compressed Columbia." -Clustering around its northeastern extremity are some of the smaller -islets of the group--the Ram Islands, and Wepecket, Uncatina and -Nonamesset. The strait at Wood's Holl forms a rocky gateway leading -from Buzzard's Bay into Vineyard Sound, and just beyond, on the Cape -Cod shore, is its guiding beacon on the point of Nobska Hill. Wood's -Holl has but a small harbor on the edge of the contracted and -tortuous passage, which is full of rocks, difficult to navigate, and -generally having the tide running through like a millrace. The -settlement is small, displaying attractive cottages on the adjacent -shores, and here are located the station and buildings of the United -States Fish Commission and the Marine Biological Laboratory. - - -MARTHA'S VINEYARD. - -Between the Elizabeth Islands and Martha's Vineyard is the great route -of vessels passing to and from New England waters, and the lighthouse -keeper at the entrance has counted more than a thousand of them -passing in a single week. Aquatic birds skim the waters, and all about -the Sound are islands great and small, their granite coasts -contrasting with the blue waters they protect from the severity of -ocean storms. A tale is told of the origin of the names of some of the -islands, which is original, if apocryphal. The story comes as a -tradition from the "oldest inhabitant" of these parts, who is said to -have been the owner of all these islands, and who determined, before -he died, to bestow the chief ones upon his four favorite daughters. -Accordingly, Rhoda took Rhode Island; Elizabeth took hers; Martha was -given "the Vineyard;" and there was left for Nancy the remaining large -island--so "Nan-took-it." - -Martha's Vineyard is shaped much like a triangle, and is twenty-three -miles long and about ten miles broad in the widest part. Vineyard -Haven, its chief harbor, is deep and narrow, opening like a pair of -jaws at the northern apex of the triangle, the entrance being guarded -by the pointed peninsulas of the East Chop and West Chop, each -provided with a lighthouse. Within is one of the most fairly -constructed natural harbors ever seen, a spacious haven of protection, -often crowded with vessels, which run in there to escape rough -treatment outside. Here is the pleasant village of Vineyard Haven, -prettily located upon the sloping banks of a small cove inside, and -having down at the end of the harbor a Government Marine Hospital. -"The Vineyard's" famous western promontory of Gay Head is composed of -ponderous cliffs, falling off steeply to the water, and presents an -interesting geological study. The inclined strata rise about two -hundred feet above the sea, being gaily colored in tints of red, -white, yellow, green, and black. About forty-five hundred people -reside on this island, including fishermen, sailors and farmers, but -mostly gaining a livelihood by ministering to the wants of the large -population of summer visitors. The first colonist was Thomas Mayhew, a -Puritan from Southampton, who came in 1642, being then the grantee -both of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. - -Cottage City is the chief settlement, built upon the eastern ocean -shore of "the Vineyard," a wonderful place attracting twenty to thirty -thousand people in the summer. The bluff shore rises precipitously -for thirty feet from the narrow beach forming the verge of the sea, -and there are myriads of cottages, many hotels, and a complete summer -town spreading over a large surface. Here are held the great Camp -Meetings which are the attraction in August--one Methodist and the -other Baptist. The former is the "Martha's Vineyard Camp Meeting -Association," first established and meeting in the Wesleyan Grove, -back from the sea. The other is the "Oak Bluffs Association," out by -the ocean's edge. This place, thoroughly alive in summer, is dormant, -however, for nearly nine months of the year. From it a railroad runs -several miles southward along the shore to the little village of -Edgartown, the place of original colonization, and the county-seat of -Dukes County, Massachusetts, which is composed of all these islands. -Towards the southeast, out of sight, is the distant island of -Nantucket. Nearer is seen the misty outline of old Chappaquadick -Island, called "the Old Chap," for short, with its long terminating -extremity of Cape Poge. To the northward is the hazy mainland of Cape -Cod, a streak upon the horizon, whence, long ago, these islands are -supposed to have been sliced off during the glacial epoch, and going -adrift, were thus anchored out in the ocean. - - -NANTUCKET. - -The island of Nantucket, dropped in the Atlantic, everyone has heard -of, but few visit. We are told by tradition that it was originally -formed by the mythical Indian giant, Manshope, who, when he was tired -of smoking, emptied here into the sea the ashes from his pipe. It was -also the smoke from this pipe which created the fogs so plentifully -abounding around the place. These fogs are very dense, and it is said -of a certain noted Nantucket skipper going away on a long voyage that -he marked one of them with his harpoon, and returning to the harbor -three years later, at once recognized the same fog by his private -mark. Old Manshope, the giant, was the tutelary genius of all the -Indian tribes on the islands of Vineyard Sound and the adjacent -mainland, and his home was on the cliffs of Gay Head, in an ancient -extinct volcanic crater, now called the Devil's Den. He feasted here -on the flesh of whales, which he broiled on live coals, obtaining fuel -by uprooting huge trees. His firelight, thus made, is said to have -been the earliest beacon seen by superstitious sailors passing the -headland, and as it flickered in his midnight orgies, they solemnly -shook their heads, saying, "Old Manshope is at it again." This -powerful giant seems to have waded around Vineyard and Nantucket -Sounds and regulated all the affairs of the neighborhood. But finally -the sailors and colonists became so numerous that he waxed very wroth. -With a single stroke of his ponderous club he separated "No Man's -Land" from "the Vineyard," and then transformed his children into -fishes. His wife lamented this cruelty, and he seized and threw her -over to the mainland on Sakonnet Point, where she still lies, a -misshapen rock. Then the disgusted giant vanished forever. - -The Norsemen first named the island Nautikon, appropriately meaning -the "Far Away Land." From this, on an early map, it appears as -Natocko, then as Nantukes, and finally it became Nantucquet, from -which the present name is derived. When Gosnold came along in 1602, he -first saw its great eastern promontory, Sankaty Head, describing the -island as covered with oak trees and populous with Indians. After the -original grant was made to Thomas Mayhew, he sold it in 1659 to the -"ten original purchasers" for £30 and two beaver hats, one for himself -and one for his wife, he reserving one-tenth. These purchasers -colonized the island, Thomas Macy, a Quaker who fled from Puritan -persecution in New England, beginning the first settlement, and Peter -Foulger, who came there somewhat later, had a daughter, who was the -mother of Benjamin Franklin. John G. Whittier, the good Quaker poet, -thus sings of Macy's flight to the island: - - "Far round the bleak and stormy cape - The vent'rous Macy passed, - And on Nantucket's naked isle - Drew up his boat at last." - -Macy landed at the site of the town of Nantucket, then the Indian -village of Wesco, or the "White Stone," which lay on the shore of the -harbor, and afterwards had a wharf built over it. The whale fishery, -which made Nantucket's prosperity, began early, in boats from the -island, and the population had increased by the Revolution to about -forty-five hundred, Sherburne, as it then was called, being the chief -whaling port in the world, with one hundred and fifty whale ships. The -island was covered with trees, but they were all destroyed during the -Revolution, and it was then made almost a desert, losing also the -greater part of its population and much of the fishery fleet. There -was a revival subsequently, and Nantucket reached its maximum -prosperity in 1840, with nearly ten thousand population. Afterwards -came the final decline of whaling, and the sandy, almost treeless -island now has about three thousand people, who depend for a living -chiefly on the summer visitors. It is without a whaleship, but it has -many snug cottages, and those going for health and rest can well say, -with Whittier: - - "God bless the sea-beat island! - And grant forever more - That charity and freedom dwell, - As now, upon her shore." - -Nantucket is southeast of Martha's Vineyard and south of Cape Cod, the -sea between them being known as Nantucket Sound. The island is an -irregular spherical triangle, sixteen miles long and three to four -miles wide, the outer coast bent around like a bow, as the Gulf -Stream currents wash the shores. To the south and east are the great -Nantucket Shoals, dangerous to the navigator, but acting as a -breakwater, preventing the island being entirely washed away by the -sea, which makes constant encroachments. The harbor of Nantucket town -presents sandy beaches and bluff shores, rising with some boldness -from the water, the sand dunes stretching away in regular lines behind -them. The town is snugly located at the bottom of a deep and secure -harbor, having a breakwater outside, and its chief daily event is the -arrival of the steamboat from the mainland, from which it is -frequently cut off for days together by winter ice and stormy weather. -There are various ancient and dilapidated wharves, fronting a -collection of strange-looking old gabled houses, many having raised -platforms on top of the peaked roofs, where the former inhabitants -used to go up to watch for vessels. It is a healthy place, with modern -hotels, tree-lined, pleasant streets, many gardens, and a magnificent -climate, the winter rigors corrected by the closeness of the Gulf -Stream. The surrounding country, outside the town, is almost -everywhere a flat prairie-land, with the one horizon all around, of -the distant blue sea. A narrow-gauge railroad leads over to the -southeastern coast at Siasconset, the quaint original gem of the -island, familiarly called 'Sconset, a curious little village of -fishermen's huts, existing now about the same as in the primitive -days. Its outlook is over the South Shoals, but not a sail is to be -seen, for these shoals are the grave of every vessel getting upon -them. It is a dismal reminder of vanished maritime prestige to see -about the Nantucket coasts the gaunt ribs of the old hulks, half -sunken in the sands where they have been cast ashore, as year by year -they gradually break up in the great storms and slowly disappear. In -the Boston _Daily Advertiser_ a poet plaintively mourns the fate of -these marine skeletons seen "at midnight off the coast": - - "Half-tombed in drifting sands upon the shore - Are ye, and heedless lashed by angry seas, - As through your blackened ribs the breeze - Exultant plays, and crested breakers roar, - And screeching sea-gulls round thee, prostrate, soar. - Wert thou allured by sighs of moaning trees, - As sirens sought to charm with songs like these - Ulysses and his brave companions o'er - To reefs deep hidden, silent, save in storm? - The rolling thunder of the sullen surge, - The mournful sobbing of the gathering gale, - Plain answer make, as round the spectre form - Of these gaunt skeletons they ceaseless scourge - The giant's battered coat of oaken mail!" - - - - -THE CONNECTICUT RIVER AND - -WHITE MOUNTAINS. - - - - -XVII. - -THE CONNECTICUT RIVER AND WHITE MOUNTAINS. - - The Long Tidal River -- Middletown -- Wethersfield -- Blue - Hills of Southington -- Meriden -- Berlin -- Hartford -- - The Charter Oak -- Samuel Colt and the Revolver -- New - Britain -- Enfield Rapids -- Windsor Locks -- Agawam -- - Springfield and the Armory -- Westfield River -- Brookfield - -- Chicopee Falls -- Hadley Falls -- Holyoke -- Mount Tom - -- Mount Holyoke -- Nonotuck -- Northampton -- Old Hadley - and its Street -- The Ox-Bow -- Goffe and Whalley -- Mount - Holyoke College -- Amherst -- Deerfield River and Old - Deerfield -- Greenfield -- Shelburne Falls -- Brattleboro' - -- Ashuelot River -- Keene -- Mount Monadnock -- Williams - River -- Bellows Falls -- Lake Sunapee -- Windsor, Vermont - -- Ascutney Mountain -- White River -- Olcott Falls -- - Hanover -- Dartmouth College -- Mooseilauke -- Newbury -- - Wells River -- Littleton -- Passumpsic River -- St. - Johnsbury -- Lake Memphramagog -- Dixville Notch -- Lake - Umbagog -- Rangeley Lakes -- Connecticut Lakes -- Source of - the Connecticut -- White Mountains -- Ammonoosuc River -- - Bethlehem -- Gale River -- Sugar Hill -- Franconia Notch -- - Coös -- Echo Lake -- Profile Lake -- Old Man of the - Mountain -- Pemigewasset River -- Flume and Pool -- North - Woodstock -- Plymouth -- Squam Lake -- Ethan's Pond -- - Thoreau and the Merrimack -- White Mountain Notch -- Israel - River -- Jefferson -- Lancaster -- Fabyan's -- Crawford's - -- The Presidential Range -- Saco River -- Willey Slide -- - View from Mount Willard -- Giant's Grave -- Mount - Washington -- Grand Gulf -- The Summit and View -- - Tuckerman's Ravine -- The Glen -- Pinkham Notch -- Peabody - River -- Gorham -- Androscoggin River -- Ellis River -- - Jackson -- Lower Bartlett -- Intervale -- North Conway -- - Mount Kearsarge -- Pequawket -- Madison -- Ossipee -- Lake - Winnepesaukee -- Sandwich Mountains -- Chocorua -- - Wolfboro' -- Weirs -- Alton Bay -- Centre Harbor -- Red - Hill -- Whittier's Poetry on the Lake and the Merrimack. - - -THE LONG TIDAL RIVER. - -The greatest New England river, the Connecticut, was first explored by -the redoubtable Dutch navigator, Captain Adraien Blok. When he made -his memorable voyage of discovery from New Amsterdam along Long Island -Sound, Blok ascended the Connecticut to Enfield Falls. Its source is -in the highlands of northern New Hampshire upon the Canadian boundary, -at an elevation of twenty-five hundred feet, and it flows four hundred -and fifty miles southward to the Sound. Its Indian title was -Quonektakat, or "the long tidal river," from which the name has been -derived. It is noted for beautiful scenery and has many cataracts, the -chief being Olcott Falls, at Wilder in Vermont, South Hadley in -Massachusetts, and Enfield in Connecticut. The soils of its valley are -extremely fertile, making a garden-spot in the otherwise generally -sterile New England, the most luxuriant crop being the tobacco-plant, -known as "Connecticut seed-leaf," used largely for cigar-wrappers, and -often yielding two thousand pounds to the acre. Steamboats navigate -the river to Hartford, about fifty miles from the Sound. The blazing -red beacon of the Cornfield Point Lightship is the outer guide for the -mariner entering its mouth, while the white lights of Saybrook guard -the inner channel. The lower Connecticut flows through a region of -farms, enriched by copious dressings of manures made from the fish -caught in the stream, and it passes picturesque shores and pleasant -villages in the domain of Haddam, an extensive tract which the Indians -originally sold to Hartford people for thirty coats. - -Middletown, the "Forest City," at a great bend in the lower river, has -many mills making pumps, tapes, plated wares, webbing and -sewing-machines, its shaded streets leading up the hill-slopes, -bordering the water, that have in them valuable quarries of rich brown -Portland stone. The county Court-house of Middletown is a quaint -little miniature of the Parthenon. The Wesleyan Methodist College, -having three hundred students, is located here, the chief buildings -being the Memorial and Judd Halls, built of the native Portland stone, -the latter the gift of Orange Judd. The large buildings of the -Connecticut Insane Hospital, also of Portland stone, overlook the -river from a high hill southeast of the city, and are in a spacious -park. To the northward of Middletown, level green and exceedingly -fertile meadows adjoin the river, their product being the noted onion -crops of Wethersfield, which permeate the whole country. This was the -earliest Connecticut settlement in 1635, and here in the next year -convened the first Connecticut Legislature to make the arrangements -for the war against the Pequots which annihilated that tribe. In one -of its old mansions General Washington had his headquarters, where, in -conjunction with the French officers, the plans were prepared for the -campaign closing the Revolution by the victory at Yorktown. - -To the westward of the river are the famous "Blue Hills of -Southington," the most elevated portion of the State of Connecticut, -and nestling under their shadow is Meriden, the hills rising high -above its western and northern verge, in the West Peak and Mount -Lamentation. Here are gathered over thirty thousand people in an -active factory town, the neat wooden dwellings of the operatives -forming the nucleus of the city adjacent to the extensive mills, and -having as a surrounding galaxy the attractive villas of their owners, -scattered in pleasant places upon the steep adjacent hills. They are -industrious iron and steel, bronze, brass and tin workers, and the -Meriden Britannia and electro-plated silver wares are famous -everywhere. The Meriden Britannia Company has enormous mills, and is -the greatest establishment of its kind in the world. Meriden and -Berlin, a short distance northward, have long been the headquarters of -the peripatetic Connecticut tin-pedler, who goes forth laden with all -kinds of pots and pans, and other bright and useful utensils, to -wander over the land, and charm the country folk with his attractive -bargains. Berlin began in the eighteenth century the first American -manufacture of tinware. There are scores of villages about, cast -almost in the same mould. Each has the same beautiful central Public -Green, the charm of the New England village, shaded by rows of stately -elms; the tall-spired churches; the village graveyard, usually on a -gently-sloping hillside, with the lines of older white gravestones, -supplemented in the modern interments by more elaborate monuments; the -attractive wooden houses nestling amid abundant foliage, and -surrounded by gardens and flower-beds, that are the homes of the -people, and the huge factories giving them employment. Some of these -villages are larger than others, thus covering more space, but -excepting in size, all are substantially alike. - - -HARTFORD. - -The high gilded dome of the Capitol at Hartford and the broad fronts -of the stately buildings of Trinity College surmounting Rocky Hill, -above a labyrinth of factories, are seen rising on the Connecticut -River bank to the northward. This is the noted city, with about -seventy thousand people, which has reproduced in New England the name -in the mother country of the ancient Saxon village just north of -London at the "Ford of Harts," whence some of its early settlers came. -The brave and pious Thomas Hooker led his flock from the seacoast -through the wilderness in 1636 to Hartford, to establish an English -colony at the Indian post of Suckiang, the Dutch three years before -having built a fort and trading-station at a bend of the Connecticut, -where the little Park River flowing in gave a water-power which -turned the wheels of a small grist-mill, to which all the country -around afterwards brought grain to be ground. Cotton Mather, the -quaint historian, described Hooker as "the renowned minister of -Hartford and pillar of Connecticut, and the light of the Western -churches." Hartford is known as the "Queen City," and its centre is -the attractive Bushnell Park, fronting on the narrow and winding Park -River. An airy bridge leads from the railway station over this little -stream, to the tasteful Park entrance, a triumphal brownstone arch -with surmounting conical towers, erected as a memorial to the soldiers -who fell in the Civil War. A grand highway then continues up the hill -to the Connecticut State Capitol, which cost $2,500,000 to build, one -of the finest structures in New England, an imposing Gothic temple of -white marble, three hundred feet long, the dome rising two hundred and -fifty feet, and all the fronts elaborately ornamented with statuary -and artistic decoration. The statue of General Putnam, who died at -Hartford in 1790, is in the Park, and his tombstone, battered and -weatherworn, is kept as a precious relic in the Capitol. The "Putnam -Phalanx" is the great military organization of Hartford. In the east -wing of the Capitol is the bronze statue of Nathan Hale, whom the -British hanged as a spy in the Revolution. It is a masterpiece, the -almost living figure seeming animated with the full vigor of -earnest youth, as with outstretched hands he actually appears to speak -his memorable words: "I only regret that I have but one life to lose -for my country." The Connecticut law-makers of to-day who meet in this -sumptuous Capitol are milder legislators than their ancestors who made -the "blue laws" of the olden time, when the iron rule of the Puritan -pastors governing the colony enacted a Draconian code, inflicting -death penalties for the crimes of idolatry, unchastity, blasphemy, -witchcraft, murder, man-stealing, smiting parents, and some others, -with savage punishment for Sabbath-breaking and the use of tobacco. - - [Illustration: _State Capitol, Hartford, Conn._] - -The celebrated Charter Oak is the great memory of Hartford. In 1856 -the old tree was blown down in a storm, and a marble slab marks where -it stood. The remains of the tree were fashioned into many precious -relics, and our friend of humorous memory, Mark Twain, who lives in -Hartford, says he has seen all conceivable articles made out of this -precious timber, there being, among others, "a walking-stick, -dog-collar, needle-case, three-legged stool, bootjack, dinner-table, -tenpin alley, toothpick, and enough Charter Oak to build a plank-road -from Hartford to Great Salt Lake City." This ancient tree concealed -the royal charter of the Connecticut colony, granted by the King, -when, in 1687, the tyrannical Governor Andros came to Hartford with -his troops and demanded its surrender. While the subject was being -discussed in the Legislature, the lights were suddenly put out, and in -the darkness a bold colonist seized the precious document, and running -out, concealed it in the hollow of the oak. The fine statue -surmounting the Capitol dome and overlooking the city is now, with -extended arm, crowning the municipality with a wreath of Charter Oak -leaves, and the oak leaf is repeated in many ways in the decoration of -the Capitol and of many other buildings in the city. The Charter Oak -Bank and Life Insurance Company are also flourishing institutions. In -proportion to population, Hartford is regarded as the wealthiest city -in America, and it is financially great, particularly in Life and Fire -Insurance Companies, whose business is wide-spread. It has many -charitable foundations, book-publishing houses, banks, manufacturing -establishments and educational institutions, the most noted of the -latter being Trinity College, in the southern part of the city, its -brownstone Early English buildings having a grand view across the -intervening valley to the hills of Farmington and Talcott Mountain, -nine miles westward. - -Picturesque suburbs adorned by magnificent villas environ the built-up -parts of Hartford, making a splendid semi-rural residential section, -where arching elms embower the lawn-bordered avenues, many localities -being adorned by superb hedges. There is a fine artistic and -historical collection in the Wadsworth Atheneum, where, among other -precious relics, are kept General Putnam's sword and the Indian King -Philip's club. Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, and Mrs. Sigourney, the -poetess, were long residents of Hartford. The citizen whom it holds in -steadfast memory, however, is Colonel Samuel Colt, who invented the -revolving pistol. He was born in Hartford, and his remains rest under -a fine monument in Cedar Hill Cemetery. His widow built as his -memorial a beautiful little brownstone chapel, the Church of the Good -Shepherd, which is not far away from the huge works of the Colt Arms -Company, the chief industrial establishment of the city. Colt, when a -boy, ran away from home and went to sea, and is said to have there -conceived the idea of his great invention. He sought vainly during -several years to establish a factory to make it, but did not prosper -until 1852, when he started in Hartford; and with the great demand for -small-arms then stimulated by the opening of the California gold mines -and the exploration of the Western plains, afterwards expanded by the -Civil War, his factory grew enormously. The heraldic "colt rampant" -adopted by the inventor is stamped on all the arms and reproduced in -all the decorations of these vast works. Among other large factories -is also the Pope bicycle works. A short distance west of Hartford is -New Britain, where there are twenty thousand people engaged in making -hardware, locks and jewelry, its noted resident having been Elihu -Burritt, the "Learned Blacksmith," who was born there in 1810 and died -in 1879. - - -SPRINGFIELD AND THE ARMORY. - -To the north of Hartford is a fertile intervale, the rich meadows of -Mattaneag, where the Connecticut River pours down the Enfield Rapids, -and the diverted water flows through a canal formerly used to take the -river-craft around the obstruction, but now giving ample power to many -paper and other mills at Windsor Locks. The original colony was -started here by John Warham, said to have been the first New England -pastor who used notes in preaching. He sustained the "blue laws," but -his colony to-day is a great tobacco-growing section, through which -the Farmington River flows down from the western hills. At South -Windsor, John Fitch, the steamboat inventor, was born. The Hazardville -Powder Works, one of the greatest gunpowder factories in the world, -are beyond, and also Thompsonville, a prodigious maker of carpets, and -then the boundary is crossed into Massachusetts. Just north of the -line, the Connecticut River sweeps grandly around in approaching -Springfield, built on the eastern bank, and spreading for a long -distance up the slopes of the adjacent hills. It is a busy -manufacturing city, with sixty thousand population and an important -railway junction, where the roads along the river cross the route from -Boston to Albany and the West. This was the Indian land of -Agawam--"fish-abounding"--to which the Puritan missionary William -Pynchon led his hardy flock in 1636, and the statue of Miles Morgan, a -noted soldier of the early time, representing the "Puritan," stands, -matchlock in hand, in heroic bronze on the Public Square. Springfield -is noted for its great firearms factories, having the extensive works -of the Smith & Wesson Company, and also the United States Armory. This -enormous Government factory, making rifles for the army previously on -a large scale, quadrupled its output during the Spanish War of 1898. -It occupies an extensive enclosure on Armory Hill, up to which the -surface gradually slopes from the river, giving an admirable view over -the city. The chief buildings stand around a quadrangle, making a -pleasant stretch of lawn, with regular rows of trees crossing it. -There are a few old cannon planted about, giving a military air, and -here are made the Springfield rifles. During the Revolution most of -the arms for the American army were made here, and the cannon were -cast that helped defeat Burgoyne at Saratoga. In the Civil War the -main works were constructed, and they ran day and night for four -years, making nearly eight hundred thousand rifles for the Union -armies. The Arsenal, a large building on the western side of the -quadrangle, contains two hundred and twenty-five thousand arms, -tastefully arranged, and rivalling the collection at the Tower of -London. This armory is the chief industrial establishment of -Springfield, and Longfellow has thus described its great Arsenal: - - "This is the Arsenal. From floor to ceiling, - Like a huge organ rise the burnished arms; - But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing - Startles the villages with strange alarms. - - "Ah! what a sound will rise, how wild and dreary, - When the death-angel touches those swift keys! - What loud lament and dismal Miserere - Will mingle with their awful symphonies! - - "I hear even now the infinite fierce chorus, - The cries of agony, the endless groan, - Which, through the ages that have gone before us, - In long reverberations reach our own. - - * * * * * - - "Were half the power that fills the world with terror, - Were half the wealth bestowed on camps and courts, - Given to redeem the human mind from error, - There were no need of arsenals or forts: - - "The warrior's name would be a name abhorred! - And every nation that should lift again - Its hand against a brother, on its forehead - Would wear for evermore the curse of Cain! - - "Down the dark future, through long generations, - The echoing sounds grow fainter and then cease; - And like a bell, with solemn, sweet vibrations, - I hear once more the voice of Christ say 'Peace!' - - "Peace! and no longer from its brazen portals - The blast of war's great organ shakes the skies! - But beautiful as songs of the immortals, - The holy melodies of Love arise." - -At Springfield the Agawam River flows from the westward into the -Connecticut, and along its broad bordering meadows comes the Boston -and Albany Railroad. This is one of the Vanderbilt lines, crossing -Massachusetts from the Berkshires to Boston, and it was among the -earliest railways built in New England, being in construction from -1833 to 1842. The project while zealously pushed was then generally -derided as chimerical, the Boston _Courier_ of that time saying the -road could only be built at "an expense of little less than the market -value of the whole territory of Massachusetts, and, if practicable, -every person of common sense knows it would be as useless as a -railroad from Boston to the moon." Yet it was built, and prospered so -much that, to break its profitable monopoly, Massachusetts had -afterwards to bore the costly Hoosac Tunnel on the only available -route, to provide a competing line. The railroad climbs up the -Taghkanic range from the Hudson River Valley, crosses the Berkshire -Hills, going through Pittsfield and over Hoosac Mountain at an -elevation of fourteen hundred and fifty feet, then coming down a wild -and picturesque defile made by a mountain brook flowing into Westfield -River, which in turn flows into the Agawam. It is a route of -magnificent scenery, gradually leading from a mountain gorge to a -broadening intervale, where it passes the fertile Indian domain of -Woronoco and the pleasant town of Westfield, noted for its whips and -cigars. Then the winding reaches of the Agawam lead through broad -meadows and past many mills to Springfield. The various streams around -the Armory City, like so much of the clear waters elsewhere in -Massachusetts, are largely devoted to paper-making, and eastward from -Springfield the railroad ascends the valley of the swift-flowing -Chicopee, meaning the "large spring," among more paper-mills. This is -a vast industry developed by the pure, clean waters of Central -Massachusetts. Farther eastward, however, the character of the mills -changes, and at Brookfield shoemaking villages appear, while elsewhere -there are textile and leather factories. Brookfield was the -birthplace, in 1818, of the noted female agitator Lucy Stone, its -Quaboag Pond furnishing the water turning the mill-wheels, and then -flowing off through Podunk meadows by the Sashaway River to the -Chicopee. At Spencer, not far away, was born in 1819 Elias Howe, the -inventor of the sewing-machine. Farther eastward the railway route -leads to Worcester, and thence to Boston. - - -THE LAND OF NONOTUCK. - -The valley of the Connecticut north of Springfield is a hive of busy -industries where are made most of the finer papers used in the United -States. All the tributary water-courses teem with factories. Four -miles above Springfield the Chicopee flows in from the eastern hills, -there being a population of twenty thousand, and the mills, served by -the power from its falls two miles eastward, working cotton and wool, -brass and bronze, as well as making paper. Chicopee Falls was the home -of Edward Bellamy, author of _Looking Backward_, who died in 1898. A -few miles above the Chicopee, on the Connecticut, are the Hadley -Falls, the greatest water-power of New England, and the creator of -Holyoke, with fifty thousand people, the chief manufactory of fine -papers in the world. In a little more than a mile the river descends -sixty feet in falls and rapids, and by a system of canals the water is -led for three miles along the banks, thus serving the factories, which -have great advantages of position, as the river winds around them on -three sides, and its flow is also supplemented by steam-power. The -water, from its great descent, is used several times over. The main -Hadley fall descends thirty feet, and to prevent erosion is aproned -with stout timbers sheathed with boiler iron. The river is bridled by -a huge dam one thousand feet long, and has a boom to catch the -floating logs. - -The scenery above the Hadley Falls grows more attractive; the hills -approach nearer the river and rise sharply into mountains; the river -winds about their bases, and, abruptly turning, goes through a gorge -between them. Upon the western side is the Mount Tom range, and upon -the eastern bank Mount Holyoke, with inclined-plane railways ascending -both, Mount Tom rising twelve hundred and fifteen feet, and Mount -Holyoke nine hundred and fifty-five feet. The Connecticut flows out -between them from the extensive valley above. These guardian peaks of -Tom and Holyoke bear the names of two pioneers of the valley, who are -said to have first discovered the pass, and the tradition is that the -broad and fertile plain above, spreading almost to the northern -Massachusetts boundary, was once a lake with the outlet towards the -west, behind Mount Tom, until the waters broke a passage through the -ridge, and made the Connecticut River route to the Sound. The origin -of these mountains was evidently volcanic, being built up of trap-rock -lifting its columned masses abruptly from the level floor of the -valley, and almost without foothills to dwarf the greater elevation. -The broad vale beyond is the fertile land of Nonotuck, bought from the -Indians in 1653 for "one hundred fathoms of wampum and ten coats." -Here to the westward of the river is Northampton, a most lovely and -attractive town, well described as "the frontispiece of the book of -beauty which Nature opens wide in the valley of the Connecticut." The -fairest fields surround it, with thrifty farmers cultivating their -rich bottom-lands, and the people have a splendid outlook in front of -their doors, in the glorious panorama of the noble mountains, with the -river flowing away through the deep gorge. The place was named -Northampton because most of the original settlers came from that -English town. Solomon Stoddart was the sturdy Puritan pastor, ruling -the flock at Nonotuck for over a half-century, the village being for -protection surrounded by a palisade and wall. The little church in -which he preached measured eighteen by twenty-six feet, being built in -1655 at a cost of $75, and the congregation were summoned to meeting -armed and by the blasts of a trumpet: - - "Each man equipped on Sunday morn - With psalm-book, shot and powder-horn, - And looked in form, as all must grant, - Like th' ancient, true Church militant." - -This renowned pastor was of majestic appearance, and as good a fighter -as he was a preacher. He never hesitated to lead his people in their -Indian wars, and once he is said to have got into an ambush, but the -awestruck savages, impressed by his noble bearing, hesitated to shoot -him, telling their French allies, "That is the Englishman's god." The -present stone church is the fifth built on the original site. During -nearly a quarter-century the noted Jonathan Edwards was the -Northampton pastor, but he was dismissed in 1750, because, owing to -the growing laxity of church members, he insisted upon "a higher and -purer standard of admission to the communion-table." Northampton is -famed for its educational development, the chief institution, endowed -by Sophia Smith in 1871, being Smith College for women, having a -thousand students and possessing fine buildings, with an art gallery, -music hall and gymnasium. There are various attractive public -buildings, including an Institution for Mutes and the State Lunatic -Asylum. The level land of Nonotuck raises much tobacco, the -Connecticut River winding in wide circular sweeps among the fields and -meadows, but making little progress as it goes around great curves of -miles in circuit. Upon an isthmus thus formed, with the broad river -loop stretching far to the westward, is "Old Hadley," the Connecticut -having made a five-mile circuit to accomplish barely one mile of -distance. Across the level isthmus from the river above to the river -below, stretching through the village, is the noted "Hadley Street," -the handsomest highway in natural adornments in the Old Bay State. -Over three hundred feet wide, this street is lined by two double rows -of noble elms, with a broad expanse of greenest lawn between, and -nearly a thousand ancient trees arching their graceful branches over -it. This very quiet street has perfect greensward, for it is almost -untravelled, and its inhabitants grow tobacco and make brooms. Another -of these wayward river loops is the great "ox-bow" of the Connecticut, -where the river used to flow around a circuit of nearly four miles and -accomplished only one hundred and fifty yards of actual distance, -until an ice-freshet broke through the narrow isthmus and made a -straight channel across it, which has become the course of the river. -The abandoned channel of the "ox-bow" is now usually stored with logs -awaiting the sawmill. Hadley was the final home and burial-place of -Goffe and Whalley, the regicides, who fled there from New Haven. When -their house was pulled down, it was said the bones of Whalley, who -died in 1679, were found entombed just outside the cellar-wall. It was -the house of the pastor, and they were concealed in it fifteen years, -from 1664 to 1679, their presence known only to three persons. Once, -during the hiding, Indians attacked the town, and after a sharp fight -the people gave way, when there suddenly appeared "an ancient man with -hoary locks, of a most venerable and dignified aspect," who rallied -them to a fresh onslaught, driving the Indians off. He then -disappeared, the inhabitants attributing their deliverance to a -"militant angel." This was Goffe, and the tale is the chief legend of -"Old Hadley." General Joseph Hooker of the Civil War was born in -Hadley. At South Hadley is the Mount Holyoke College for girls, almost -under the shadow of the mountain, amid magnificent scenery, a noted -institution with four hundred students, where, during the past -century, have been educated many missionary women for their labors in -distant lands. - - -MOUNT HOLYOKE AND BEYOND. - -There is a grand view from the summit of Mount Holyoke, spreading -almost from Long Island Sound to the White Mountains, and from the -Berkshire Hills in the west to the cloud-capped mountains Monadnock -and Wachusett, fifty miles to the eastward. This is regarded as the -finest view in New England, for the wide and highly cultivated valley -of the Connecticut, with its wayward, winding stream flowing -apparently in all directions over the rich bottom-lands cut up into -diminutive farms and fields like so many "plaided meadows," gives a -charm that is lacking in most other mountain views. The grand panorama -displays parts of four New England States. Off to the northeast -several miles is seen the town of Amherst, with four thousand people, -the seat of another noted educational institution, Amherst College, -having over four hundred students and a fine archæological museum. - -The Hoosac Mountain range in the Berkshires sends down various streams -on its eastern slopes through wild and romantic gorges into the -Connecticut Valley, and one of these is Deerfield River, coming into -the main stream some distance north of Mount Holyoke. Here is the -village of "Old Deerfield," settled in 1670, on the Indian domain of -Pocomtuck, and named from the abundance of deer found in the forests. -Its streets often ran with blood in King Philip's and the later Indian -Wars, and its young men were then described by the quaint Puritan -chronicler as "the very flower of Essex County, none of whom were -ashamed to speak with the enemy in the gate." Its guardian peaks are -the Sugar Loaf, rising seven hundred and ten feet, and on the -opposite eastern side of the river Mount Toby, nearly thirteen hundred -feet high. King Philip, in his attack upon the settlers here in 1675, -made the tall and isolated Sugar Loaf his lookout station, whence he -directed the movements of his forces, and a crag on the top is yet -called "King Philip's Chair." Nearby, a monument marks the battlefield -of Bloody Brook in 1675, where the Indians killed Captain Lathrop and -eighty young men of Essex County. The Fitchburg Railroad from Boston -through Fitchburg comes across the Connecticut Valley, and passing the -village of Greenfield, takes advantage of the winding canyon of -Deerfield River to ascend westward to the wall of Hoosac Mountain, -where the great tunnel is pierced. The route is in a wild and -picturesque defile, in the heart of which is the pleasant village of -Shelburne Falls, where the stream glides down a series of cataracts -and rapids having one hundred and fifty feet descent. Here are mills -making cutlery, hooks, gimlets and other things, and there are -sheep-pastures on the mountain sides, and the people also tap the -maple trees for sugar. There are more villages among these mountains -farther up the gorge, where it may broaden to give a little arable -land, and at one of these, under the shadow of the great Pocomtuck -Mountain, was born in 1797 Mary Lyon, the devout and noted teacher who -founded Mount Holyoke College for girls. Finally the railway reaches -the Hoosac wall, and leaving the little Deerfield River which comes -down from the north, disappears westward in the tunnel. - -The Connecticut River beyond the Massachusetts northern boundary -divides the States of New Hampshire and Vermont, and its scenery, as -ascended, becomes more romantic and mountainous. At Northfield, near -the boundary, lived Dwight L. Moody, the evangelist. Above the -boundary, the Massachusetts colony, as a protection to the river -settlements, in 1724 built Fort Dummer, which was often attacked by -the French and Indians in their forays from Canada, but never -captured, and near it was made the first settlement in Vermont, a -village named in 1753 Brattleborough, in honor of Colonel Brattle of -Boston, one of the landowners. The Whetstone Brook flows in, making a -fine water-power, and the town, now having six thousand people, is -charmingly situated on an elevated plateau, surrounded by lofty hills. -Brattleboro' is the centre of the Vermont maple-sugar industry, and it -has the largest organ-works existing, those of the Estey Company. Just -south of the town rises Cemetery Hill, overlooking it with a fine -view, and here is the grand monument erected in memory of the -notorious James Fisk, Jr., who was a native of the place. It bears -emblematic female statues representing Railroads, Commerce, Navigation -and the Drama, and was executed by Larkin G. Mead, the sculptor, also -a native of the town. It is recorded that when a lad, Mead worked one -long winter night on a snow figure at the head of the Main Street, and -next morning, the people were surprised to see there a beautiful -figure of the Recording Angel, modeled in the purest snow. Southwest -of Brattleboro' is Sadawga Lake, in the town of Whitingham, near -which, in a poor log hut, Brigham Young was born in 1801. He was a -farmer's son, educated in the Baptist Church, and afterwards -emigrating to Ohio, joined the Mormons there when about thirty years -old. When Rudyard Kipling had his home in Vermont, it was about three -miles north of Brattleboro'. - -From the eastern highlands of New Hampshire the Ashuelot River flows -into the Connecticut below Brattleboro', and to the northeast in its -alluvial valley is Keene, the centre of an agricultural district, and -having about eight thousand people, some of whom make leather goods, -furniture and wooden ware. The Ashuelot means a "collection of many -waters," and the place was named before the Revolution in honor of Sir -Benjamin Keene, a British friend of Governor Wentworth of New -Hampshire, in consequence of which the colonial historian recorded -that "Keene is a proud little spot." To the southeast boldly rises -Mount Monadnock, its high and rugged top elevated nearly thirty-two -hundred feet, and having a hotel half-way up its side. This mountain -is about eighty miles from Boston, and the town of Jaffrey, at its -southeastern base, has an old church, the frame of which was raised on -the day of the battle of Bunker Hill, the workmen claiming that they -heard the cannonading. The Williams River, coming from the slopes of -the Green Mountains, flows into the Connecticut on the Vermont side, -at Bellows Falls, a picturesque summer resort located at the river -rapids, where there is a descent of forty-two feet in about a -half-mile, the power being availed of for various factories. Above, at -Claremont, the Sugar River flows in from New Hampshire, and to the -eastward is the charming Lake Sunapee, nine miles long, and surrounded -by wooded highlands, which has been often called the American Loch -Katrine. Over on the Vermont side, north of Claremont, is Windsor, -where it is recorded that during a fearful thunder-storm, and with the -appalling news of the loss of Fort Ticonderoga ringing in their ears, -the deputies of Vermont adopted the State Constitution, July 2, 1777. -Southwest of the village rises Ascutney Mountain, its Indian name -meaning the "Three Brothers," being supposed to refer to three -singular valleys running down the western slope. Its summit is -elevated thirty-three hundred and twenty feet. William M. Evarts, who -was a native of Boston, has his summer home Runnymede near Windsor, -and at Cornish, nearby, Chief Justice Salmon P. Chase was born in -1808, emigrating to Ohio in 1830. - - -HANOVER TO MEMPHRAMAGOG. - -The White River, coming out from the Green Mountains, flows into the -Connecticut at a noted railway junction, while a short distance above -is the Olcott Falls, a cataract amid picturesque surroundings which -provides power for large paper-mills at Wilder, Vermont. To the -northward is Hanover, in New Hampshire, the seat of the most famous -educational foundation of northern New England, Dartmouth College, -having some seven hundred students. Rev. Eleazer Wheelock began it in -1770, and his name is preserved in the chief hotel. He started a -school in the forest to educate missionaries for the Indians, having -twenty-four students domiciled in rude log huts. He also educated -several Indians, giving them Master's degrees; but after some of them -had returned to savage life he changed his plan, and this object was -subordinated to the purposes of general and higher education, the -College, which was named for the Earl of Dartmouth, entering upon a -successful career subsequently to the Revolution. Among the graduates -have been Daniel Webster, Amos Kendall, Levi Woodbury, Benjamin -Greenleaf, George P. Marsh, George Ticknor, Rufus Choate, Thaddeus -Stevens and Salmon P. Chase. There are numerous buildings surrounding -an extensive elm-shaded campus, and also a spacious college park. The -Connecticut River above Hanover winds about the level fertile -intervale, making numerous "ox-bow" bends, and there appear numerous -mountain peaks which are outlying sentinels of the Franconia Mountains -to the eastward. The best known of these is Moosilauke, rising -forty-eight hundred feet, which formerly was the "Moose Hillock" of -the colonists. On the western river bank is the Vermont town of -Newbury, founded by General Bailey of Massachusetts. It is related -that during the Revolution a detachment of British troops came there -to capture him, but a friend who learned their object went out where -he was ploughing and dropped in the furrow a note, saying, "The -Philistines be upon thee, Samson!" Bailey, returning down the long -furrow, saw the note, took the hint and escaped. The crooked little -Wells River flows out of the Green Mountains and falls into the -Connecticut at the village of Wells River, nestling in a deep basin -among the high hills; and here is another important railway junction, -with routes going westward to Lake Champlain, northward to Canada, and -eastward to the White Mountains. The latter route is up the Ammonoosuc -River valley, past Littleton, with its glove factories and summer -boarding-houses, on the edge of the mountain district, and thence to -Bethlehem and into the heart of the White Mountain region. - -The Passumpsic River flows from Vermont into the Connecticut a few -miles above, and about ten miles up that winding and hill-environed -stream is the picturesque town of St. Johnsbury, with about seven -thousand people, noted as the location of the extensive Fairbanks -Scale Works. St. John de Crevecoeur, the French Consul at New York, -was very popular in the Revolutionary times and a benefactor of -Vermont, and this town, settled in 1786, was named in his honor. It is -related that in 1830, when there was a good deal of excitement about -hemp-culture in the United States, the Fairbanks Brothers established -a hemp-dressing factory here, and one of them conceived the idea of a -platform-scale to weigh the hemp, which construction was the origin of -their extensive business, the works sending scales all over the world. -The railroad route to Montreal and Quebec ascends the Passumpsic, -crosses the watershed, passing Lake Memphramagog at Newport, and then -enters Canada. This noted lake is on the national boundary, more than -two-thirds of it being in Canada, and is thirty miles long. -Memphramagog means the "beautiful water," and the mountain ranges -enclosing it with their wooded slopes present fine views. The national -boundary is marked by clearings in the forests on either side of the -lake. The massive rounded summit of the Owl's Head rises thirty-three -hundred feet on the western shore in imposing magnificence, and many -other peaks are sentinelled all around. Steamboats ply on the lake -from Newport to Magog at the foot, where its waters discharge -northward into Magog River and thence flow over the vast plain of -Canada, which is so conspicuously contrasted with the mountains to the -southward, until at Sherbrooke they reach St. Francis River, and -finally the St. Lawrence. Lake Memphramagog has its Indian legends of -massacre and escape, but its chief modern tradition is of a noted -smuggler named Skinner, who in the early nineteenth century performed -prodigious feats of skill in eluding the revenue officers. Near the -boundary is Skinner's Island, having a spacious cavern on its -northwestern side. The smuggler usually disappeared near this island, -which came in time to be named for him, and it is related that one -night the officers, having had a long chase, found his boat on this -island and turned it adrift on the lake. The smuggler never appeared -afterwards, but some years later a fisherman, seeking shelter from a -squall under the lee of the island, discovered the cave hidden under -foliage and explored it. - - "And what do you think the fisherman found? - Neither a gold nor a silver prize, - But a skull with sockets where once were eyes; - Also some bones of arms and thighs, - And a vertebral column of giant size; - How they got there he could not devise, - For he'd only been used to commonplace graves, - And knew naught of 'organic remains' in caves; - On matters like those his wits were dull, - So he dropped the subject as well as the skull. - 'Tis needless to say - In this latter day, - 'Twas the smuggler's bones in the cave that lay: - All I've to add is--the bones in a grave - Were placed, and the cavern was called 'Skinner's Cave.'" - - -SOURCES OF THE CONNECTICUT. - -The Connecticut River comes from the northeast to its confluence with -the Passumpsic, a stream of reduced volume, flowing down rapids. There -is only sparse population above, and in New Hampshire, some distance -east of Colebrook, is the famous Dixville Notch. This is an attractive -ravine about ten miles long, cut through the isolated Dixville Range. -It is not a mountain pass in the usual sense, but a wonderful gorge -among high hills, the cliffs being worn and broken down into strange -forms of ruin and desolation. Theodore Winthrop describes the Dixville -Notch as "briefly, picturesque--a fine gorge between a crumbling, -conical crag and a scarped precipice--a place easily defensible, -except at the season when raspberries would distract sentinels." -Approached from Colebrook to the westward, the view is disappointing, -as it is entered at a high level, but after an abrupt turn to the -right, the tall columnar sides are seen frowning at each other across -the narrow chasm; cliffs of decaying mica slate presenting a scene of -shattered ruin that is mournful to behold. To the right of the Notch, -Table Rock rises five hundred and sixty feet above the road, being -elevated nearly twenty-five hundred feet above the sea, and is -ascended by a rude stairway of stone blocks called Jacob's Ladder. Its -summit is a narrow pinnacle only eight feet wide, with precipitous -sides. It gives an extensive view over the Connecticut Valley -northward to the Connecticut Lakes, and over the upper Androscoggin -Valley to the southeastward. Its most impressive sight, however, is -much nearer, the narrow dreary chasm immediately below, with its -broken palisades that seem almost ready to fall. Beyond is the Ice -Cave, a deep ravine where snow and ice remain throughout the summer. -Washington's Monument and the Pinnacle, remarkable rock formations, -rise high on the north side of the Notch. Beyond the Notch -southeastward is the Androscoggin, which small steamboats ascend to -Lake Umbagog on the Maine boundary. Still farther eastward and deep in -the Maine forests are the noted fishery waters of the Rangeley Lakes, -which have polysyllabic names, such as Mooselucmaguntic, -Mollychunkamunk, and Welokenebacook. They are elevated fifteen hundred -feet above the sea and cover eighty square miles of surface. - -We have now ascended the picturesque Connecticut River to its mountain -sources. It has become only a brook, and having followed it up to the -Canadian boundary of Vermont, it is found to come out of Northern New -Hampshire, flowing westward from the Connecticut Lakes. The main lake -of this group is twenty-five miles northeast of Colebrook, covering -about twelve square miles, a favorite haunt of anglers, and navigated -by a small steamboat. The second lake, four miles farther northeast -through the forest, has about five square miles of surface, and the -third lake is to the northward, covering two hundred acres. The -Canadian northern boundary of New Hampshire is a low mountain range, -and on its southern slope is the fourth and highest lake, at -twenty-five hundred feet elevation above the sea, a pond of about -three acres, in which the great New England river has its head. These -Connecticut Lakes are in an almost unbroken forest. - - -THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. - -To the eastward of the Connecticut River, which we have explored from -its mouth to the source, lies one of the most attractive regions in -America, the White Mountain district. It covers about thirteen hundred -square miles, stretching forty-five miles eastward from the -Connecticut to the Maine boundary, and being thirty miles wide from -the Ammonoosuc and Androscoggin on the north to the base of the -Sandwich range on the south. There are some two hundred of these -mountains rising from a plateau elevated generally sixteen hundred -feet above the sea. They cluster mainly in two groups, separated by a -broad table-land ten to twenty miles wide, the western group being the -Franconia Mountains and the eastern group the Presidential range, or -White Mountains proper. Their great mass is of granite, overlaid by -mica slate; their scenery is varied and beautiful; and the country has -nowhere a more popular resort than these mountains in the summer. They -send out from their glens and notches various rivers, westward to the -Connecticut, eastward to the Androscoggin and Saco, and southward to -the Merrimack. The Indians called the White Mountains Agiochook, -meaning "the Mountains of the Snowy Forehead and Home of the Great -Spirit," and held them in the utmost reverence and awe. They rarely -ascended the peaks, as it was believed no intruder upon these sacred -heights was ever known to return. The legend was that the Great Spirit -once bore a blameless chief and his squaw in a mighty whirlwind to the -summit, while the world below was overspread by a flood destroying all -the people. It was said that the great Passaconaway, the wizard-king -at Pennacook, was wont to commune with celestial messengers on the -summit of Agiochook, whence he was finally borne to heaven. The first -white man who visited these mountains was Darby Field, who came up -from Portsmouth on the seacoast in June, 1642, by the valley of the -Saco. The Indians tried to dissuade him, saying he would never return -alive, but he pressed on, attended by two seashore Indians, passing -through cloud-banks and storms, reaching the highest peak, whence he -saw, as he related, "the sea by Saco, the Gulf of Canada, and the -great lake Canada River came out of;" and he found many crystals that -he thought were diamonds, from which the range long bore the name of -the "Chrystal Hills." Towards the close of the eighteenth century -colonists began moving into the outlying glens; in 1792 Abel Crawford -lived on the Giant's Grave, now Fabyan's; in 1803 a small inn was -built there; and in 1820 a party of seven ascended and slept on the -summit of Mount Washington, giving the principal peaks the names they -now have. - -From the Connecticut River the chief route of entrance to the White -Mountain region is by railway up the Ammonoosuc River alongside its -swift-flowing amber waters, and through the villages of North Lisbon -and Littleton, then coming to Bethlehem Junction, whence a short -narrow-gauge railroad leads steeply up the hill-slope westward to -Maplewood and Bethlehem. This is one of the most populous resorts of -the district--Bethlehem Street--a well-kept highway, stretching two -miles along a plateau upon the northern hill-slope at an elevation of -almost three hundred feet above the river. When old President Dwight, -in his early wanderings over New England, first saw this place, it was -known as the "Lord's Hill," and he recorded it as remote and sterile, -having "only log huts, recent, few, poor and planted on a soil -singularly rough and rocky," but he saw "a magnificent prospect of -the White Mountains and a splendid collection of other mountains in -this neighborhood." It is now an aggregation of fine hotels and summer -boarding-houses, the whole "Street" having a grand view of the -imposing Presidential range, seen nearly twenty miles to the eastward -over the Ammonoosuc Valley, while other mountain ranges are to the -north and west, so that Bethlehem is in a vast amphitheatre, -presenting, when the clouds permit, an environment of unsurpassed -magnificence. To the southward, the visitors climb Mount Agassiz, -rising twenty-four hundred feet, formerly known as the Peaked Hill, -and get an unrivalled view of mountains all around the horizon, the -Green Mountains of Vermont being plainly visible beyond the -Connecticut River to the westward. The southern flanks of Mount -Agassiz are drained by the pretty little Gale River, flowing through a -deep glen westward to the Ammonoosuc at North Lisbon. Down in this -glen, to the southwest of Bethlehem, is the village of Franconia, with -numerous hotels and boarding-houses, while to the southwest of the -glen rises Sugar Hill, another popular resort, with its great hotels -set high on the hilltop, and having superb views of the Franconia and -White Mountains to the eastward, and far away westward over the -Connecticut Valley where the horizon is enclosed by the long line of -the Green Mountains. It is a breezy and health-giving place. - - -THE OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN. - -To the southward of Bethlehem is the Franconia group, of which Mount -Lafayette is the crowning peak, its pyramidal summit rising fifty-two -hundred and seventy feet. A notch is cut down into the group, and -through this, the Franconia or Profile Notch, another narrow-gauge -railway going up-hill for ten miles in the forest, traverses the -flanks of Lafayette and leads to the Echo Lake and Profile House, the -most extensive hotel in the region. This is in Coös County, the -mountain county of northern New Hampshire, getting its strangely -pronounced name from the Indian word _cooash_, meaning the "pine -woods," with which almost the whole country was then covered. Here -lived the Abenaqui tribe, known as the "swift deer-hunting Coosucks." -At the highest part of the Notch, where its floor broadens -sufficiently for a few acres of smooth surface between the enormous -enclosing mountains, is built the hotel and its attendant cottages, -standing between two long, narrow lakes at the summit of the pass, the -waters flowing out respectively north and south, from the one, Echo -Lake to Gale River and the Ammonoosuc, and from the other, Profile -Lake to the Pemigewasset, seeking the Merrimack. The Pemigewasset -means "the place of the Crooked Pines," and Profile Lake used to be -called the "Old Man's Washbowl." On its western side rises Mount -Cannon, forty-one hundred feet high, on the southeastern face of -which is the "Old Man of the Mountain," the noted Franconia Profile. -The mountain rises abruptly from the edge of the lake, and twelve -hundred feet above the water is this "Great Stone Face," about which -Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote so famously. It is a remarkable semblance of -the human countenance, and can be properly seen from only one -position. Move but a short distance either north or south from this -spot, and the profile becomes distorted and is soon obliterated. It is -composed of three distinct ledges of granite projecting from the face -of the mountain, one forming the forehead, another the nose and upper -lip, and a third the chin. These three ledges are in different -vertical lines, the actual length of the profile being forty feet, and -they make an overhanging brow, a powerful and clearly-defined nose, -and a sharp and massive projecting chin, the very mark of complete -decision of character, so that the realism of the profile is almost -startling. The Old Man's severe and somewhat melancholy gaze is -directed towards the southeast over the lake, as if looking earnestly -down the Notch. - -The white man's discovery of this profile was made in the early -nineteenth century by two road-makers, mending the highway through the -Notch. Stooping to wash their hands in the lake, just at the right -spot, they casually looked up and saw it, being struck instantly by -the wonderful facial resemblance. "That is Jefferson," said one of -them, Thomas Jefferson then being President of the United States, and -the stern countenance certainly looks like some of his portraits. -There he is, gazing far away, with sturdy, unchanging expression, as -he has done for thousands of years. Thomas Starr King, who has so well -described these mountains, regards the "Great Stone Face" as "a piece -of sculpture older than the Sphinx--an imitation of the human -countenance which is the crown of all beauty, that was pushed out from -the coarse strata of New England, thousands of years before Adam." Yet -a slight change from the proper position for view greatly alters the -profile. Move a few paces northward, and the nose and face are -flattened, only the projecting forehead finally being seen. Go a short -distance to the southward, and the Old Man's decisive countenance -quickly deteriorates into that of a toothless old woman wearing a cap, -and soon the lower portion of the face is so distorted that the human -profile is obliterated. The Cannon Mountain bearing the famous profile -is a majestic ridge named from a spacious granite ledge on its steep -slope, presenting, when observed from a certain position below, the -appearance of a cannon ready for firing. Its summit rises seven -hundred feet above the profile. - -From the Profile Lake, the Pemigewasset River flows southward, deep -down in the narrow Franconia Notch, the stream descending over five -hundred feet in five miles. Here is the "Flume," and beyond it the -gorge widens, giving a view which Thomas Starr King has described as -"a perpetual refreshment," for it extends far away southward over the -broadening intervale, one of the fairest scenes in nature, stretching -many miles to and beyond Plymouth. The "Flume" is made by a brilliant -little tributary brook dashing along the bottom of a fissure for -several hundred feet, bordered by high walls rising sixty to seventy -feet above the torrent and only a few feet apart. The water rushes -towards the Pemigewasset between these smooth granite walls, and the -awe-struck visitor walks through in startled admiration. The "Pool" is -beyond, a deep, dark basin, into which the Pemigewasset falls, -surrounded by a high rocky enclosure, making an abyss over a hundred -feet across and one hundred and fifty feet deep. There is also another -pellucid green basin below, into which the river tumbles by a pretty -white cascade, this being a huge pothole originally ground out by the -action of boulders whirled around in it by the current. A galaxy of -peaks environ this pleasant glen in the Franconia and Pemigewasset -ranges, the highest of them, Mount Lincoln, rising fifty-one hundred -feet, and having Mount Liberty, a lower peak, to the southward. - - -TO PLYMOUTH AND BEYOND. - -Emerging from the Franconia Notch, the broadened valley reaches the -attractive village of North Woodstock, another cluster of hotels and -summer boarding-houses in an attractive location. The Pemigewasset -receives its eastern branch, passes other villages, is swollen by the -brisk torrent of the Mad River, and then, amid lower mountains and -broader vales, but still with the most delicious views, comes to the -typical White Mountain outpost town of Plymouth, at the confluence of -the Pemigewasset and Baker Rivers, the latter coming in from the -northwest. Captain Baker with a company of Massachusetts rangers, -early in the eighteenth century, attacked an Indian village here, and -his name was given the tributary stream. The Puritan colonists, -however, did not actually settle Plymouth until 1764. The town is full -of summer cottages and boarding-houses, is noted for its manufacture -of fine buckskin gloves, and has as its chief relic the little old -building, then the court-house, in which Daniel Webster made his first -speech to a jury. It was here that Nathaniel Hawthorne suddenly died -in May, 1864. He was travelling with his intimate friend, ex-President -of the United States Franklin Pierce, and stopping overnight at a -hotel, was found dead in his room next morning, having passed quietly -away while sleeping. Far away beyond Plymouth the bright Pemigewasset -flows, receiving the outlets of the Waukawan Lake, and of the -beautiful and island-dotted Squam Lake, its enclosing hills being most -superb sites for summer villas. This is the "mountain-girdled Squam" -of which Whittier sings, and a giant pine tree is pointed out on its -banks where the poet used to sit and watch the lake by hours, and in -honor of which he wrote the _Wood Giant_, one of his most admirable -poems. The Pemigewasset joins the outlet stream of Lake Winnepesaukee -at Franklin, and they together form the noble Merrimack, which, in its -useful flow to the sea, turns so many New England mill-wheels. The -Pemigewasset and its branches drain the southern slopes of the -Franconia ranges in a vast primeval forest, whose inner solitudes are -rarely explored. Upon its eastern verge, far up on the southwestern -slope of Mount Willey, is Ethan's Pond, said to be the most elevated -source of the Merrimack, twenty-five hundred feet above the sea. Its -most remote source is the Profile Lake, at the head of the -Pemigewasset, over which the "Great Stone Face" mounts guard. Thus -writes Thoreau of the Merrimack: - -"At first it comes on, murmuring to itself, by the base of stately and -retired mountains, through moist, primitive woods, whose juices it -receives, where the bear still drinks it and the cabins of settlers -are far between, and there are few to cross its stream; enjoying in -solitude its cascades still unknown to fame; by long ranges of -mountains of Sandwich and of Squam, slumbering like tumuli of Titans, -with the peaks of Moosilauke, the Haystacks and Kearsarge reflected in -its waters; where the maple and the raspberry, those lovers of the -hills, flourish amid temperate dews; flowing long and full of meaning, -but untranslatable as its name, Pemigewasset, by many a pastured -Pelion and Ossa, where unnamed muses haunt, tended by Oreades, Dryads -and Nereids, and receiving the tribute of many an untasted Hippocrene: - - "'Such water do the gods distil, - And pour down every hill, - For their New England men. - A draught of this will nectar bring, - And I'll not taste the spring - Of Helicon again.' - -"Where it meets the sea is Plum Island, its sand ridges scalloping -along the horizon like the sea-serpent, and its distant outline broken -by many a tall ship, leaning, still, against the sky. Standing at its -mouth, looking up its sparkling stream to its source,--a silver -cascade which falls all the way from the White Mountains to the -sea,--and behold a city on each successive plateau, a busy colony of -human beavers around every fall. Not to mention Newburyport and -Haverhill, see Lawrence and Lowell, and Nashua and Manchester and -Concord, gleaming one above the other." - - -THE WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. - -The most remarkable pass in this attractive mountain district is the -great White Mountain Notch, through the heart of the range. The -valley of the Ammonoosuc, farther ascended from Bethlehem Junction, -soon becomes an enormous chasm, cut deeply down, and sweeping grandly -around from the south towards the east, disclosing in magnificent -array the splendid galaxy of Presidential Peaks as it is carved along -their western bases. This Notch is formed by the headwaters of the -Ammonoosuc rising among the foothills of Mount Washington, flowing out -towards the west, and by the Saco River, flowing southeast to the -Atlantic. The Maine Central Railway avails of this remarkable pass to -get through the White Mountains, and bring the traffic of northwestern -New England and Canada down to the sea. To the northward arises the -Owl's Head, around which this railway circles after emerging from the -western portal of the Notch, and on the northern flanks of this -mountain are the head-streams of Israel River, over beyond which is -Mount Starr King. Here is Jefferson, another gathering of hotels and -cottages, enjoying one of the finest views of the White Mountain -range, a popular resort, from which there are grand drives around the -northern side of the Presidential range, seventeen miles eastward to -Gorham on the Androscoggin. It was on this route that the famous view -of these mountains was painted by George L. Brown--the "Crown of New -England," owned by the Prince of Wales. Jefferson Hill has been -described by Starr King as "the _ultima thule_ of grandeur in an -artist's pilgrimage among the New Hampshire mountains." Seven miles -northwest, down the Israel River, is Lancaster, with nearly four -thousand people, another favorite resort, though with more distant -mountain views. - -Where the Ammonoosuc, now become so small, curves around from the east -towards the south at the western portal of the Notch, is Fabyan's, and -here are located some of the great hotels of the district, right in -front of Mount Washington. Between Fabyan's and Crawford's, four miles -southward, the Presidential Range is the eastern border of the Notch -and is passed in grand review. The headspring of the Ammonoosuc is on -the slope of the mountain alongside Crawford's, where the floor of the -valley is at its highest elevation, nineteen hundred feet above the -sea and three hundred and thirty feet above Fabyan's. Higher than this -the massive walls of the Notch rise some two thousand feet farther, -and then slope backward up to the mountain summits, which are much -higher, but invisible from the bottom of the valley. In front of -Crawford's, where there is a rather broader space, one looks southward -at the little oval lake which is the source of Saco River. Just beyond -is the "Gate of the Notch," where the rocky projections of the huge -mountains on either hand come out and almost close the passage, -leaving an opening of only a few feet width for the diminutive Saco, -here a mere rill, to start on its career, soon becoming a vigorous -mountain torrent, leaping and bounding down the canyon. Upon the left -hand of the stream the rocks have been cut out to give the wagon-road -room, and on the right hand the railroad has hewn its route through -the granite, the three being closely compressed between the high -cliffs towering above. The Elephant's Head, formed of dark rocks, with -trunk and eye well fashioned, looks down upon this "Gate," and just -beyond, another cliff presents the semblance of an Indian papoose -clinging to its mother's back. The little Saco soon cuts the Notch -deeply down, such is its steep descent, so that in a short distance it -becomes a vast ravine. Thus, with the railway high up on a gallery -upon the mountain side, and the road deep down by the Saco, the ravine -is cleft between Mounts Webster and Willard, the latter, as the chasm -bends, falling sharply off, a tremendous precipice of steep and bare -rock, when Mount Willey appears beyond. Thus the Notch deepens and -broadens, becoming an enormous chasm, with the rapid river down in the -bottom, constantly increasing in volume. The Saco is said to have been -thus named by the Indians because of the mass of water it brings down, -the word meaning "pouring out." - -About three miles below the "Gate," the Notch broadens into a sort of -basin enclosed by the bare walls of Mount Willard to the westward and -Mount Willey to the south, curving around the long crescent-shaped -slope of Mount Webster, which makes the northern border. Here is the -Willey House, the scene of the Willey Slide, the great tragedy of the -Notch, a small and antiquated inn, now adjoined by a modern hotel. In -August, 1826, there was a terrific landslide down the slope of Mount -Willey behind the old house, then kept by Samuel Willey, from whom the -mountain was afterwards named. A heavy storm after a long drouth had -made a flood in the Saco, and Willey, fearing an overflow, deserted -his house in the night, with his family of nine persons, to seek -higher ground. Suddenly the slide came down the mountain and the -flight was fatal, the avalanche of rocks and dirt overwhelming them -all, while a convenient boulder behind the house so deviated it that, -although almost covered with rubbish, the building was uninjured. A -traveller who afterwards came through the Notch found the half-buried -inn deserted, with the doors open, the supper-table spread, and a -Bible lying open upon it, with a pair of spectacles on the page, -evidently just as they had been left in the sudden flight. Owing to -the bend in the Notch there is an unrivalled view down it from the -summit of Mount Willard, which thus stands practically at the head of -the deep pass. The southern face of this mountain is a vast and almost -perpendicular precipice, out on the brow of which the observer stands -to look down the deep valley stretching far away, and enclosed -between mountains rising nearly two thousand feet above him on either -hand, so that the view has a singular individuality, as if one were -looking at it through a camera. The depth of the gorge and the -precipitous front of the mountain make the Notch a tremendous gulf. -The deeply concave chasm is scooped out like an immense cylinder, -having the inside covered with dense green foliage, and grandly -bending around to the left until lost afar off behind the distant -projecting slope of Mount Webster. The railroad stretches, a streak of -brown, along the right-hand wall of the valley, twisting in and out -about the promontories. Down in the bottom the thick forest hides the -wagon-road and the bed of the Saco until they come out in a flat -cleared green spot in front of the Willey House. The towering mountain -slopes are scratched and scarred where slides have come down, and two -or three bright little ribbons of white water are suspended on their -sides, making cascades that help fill the river beneath. Beyond the -outlet of the Notch, the eastern background is a vast sea of mountain -ranges and billowy peaks, having the bold, white, pyramidal crown of -proud Chocorua rising behind them. This splendid scene, regarded by -many as the finest in the White Mountains, had a peculiar charm for -Anthony Trollope on his American visit. He did not usually view -America with favor, but he emphatically wrote: "Much of this scenery, -I say, is superior to the famed and classic lands of Europe," adding -"I know nothing, for instance, on the Rhine equal to the view from -Mount Willard and the mountain Pass called the Notch." Most -experienced observers are convinced that as an impressive exhibition -of a deep mountain canyon with an enchanting background, this is not -surpassed in Switzerland. - - -MOUNT WASHINGTON. - -The Fabyan House, in front of Mount Washington, stands upon the -location of the "Giant's Grave," which was an elongated mound of sand -and gravel formed by the waves of an ancient lake, reacting from the -adjacent mountain slopes, and rising about fifty feet. Being high, -long and wide, it was just the place for a house. The tradition is -that once a fierce-looking Indian stood upon this mound at night, -waving a flaming torch and shouting "No paleface shall take root here; -this the Great Spirit whispered in my ear." The successive burnings of -hotels on this site would seem to indicate this as prophetic, and in -fact no hotel did stand there any length of time until the projectors -of the present large building, after the last one was burnt, as if to -avoid fate, had the mound making the "Giant's Grave" levelled and -obliterated. Here was built the earliest inn of the White Mountains in -1803 by a sawmill owner on the Ammonoosuc River, named Crawford. His -grandson, Ethan Allen Crawford, the famous "White Mountain Giant," was -the noted guide who made the first path to ascend Mount Washington -and built the first house on its summit. Now, the mountain is ascended -from this western side by an inclined-plane railway, reached by an -ordinary railway extending from Fabyan's five miles across to the base -of the mountain. The railway to the summit is about three miles long, -with an average gradient of thirteen hundred feet to the mile, the -maximum being thirteen and one-half inches in the yard. It is worked -by a cog-wheel locomotive acting upon a central cogged rail, and the -ascent is accomplished in about ninety minutes. It is an exhilarating -ride up the slope, for, as the car is elevated, the horizon of view -widens decidedly to the west and northwest, while the trees of the -forest get smaller and smaller, and their character changes. The -sugar-maples, yellow birches and mossy-trunked beeches, with an -occasional aspen or mountain ash, are gradually left behind in the -valley, being replaced on the higher slope by white pine and hemlock, -white birch, and dark spruces and firs hung with gray moss. These -gradually becoming smaller, soon the only trees left are a sort of -dwarf fir intertangled with moss. Then, rising above the limit of -trees, there is only a stunted arctic vegetation, and this permits a -grand and unobstructed view all around the western horizon. - -The route of the railway goes over and up various steep trestles, the -most startling of all being "Jacob's Ladder," elevated about thirty -feet and having the steepest gradient. Here is a perfect arctic -desolation, the surface being broken blocks and rough stones of schist -and granite, cracked, honeycombed and moss-grown, having endured the -storms and frosts of centuries. There is a little vegetation where it -may get root, the reindeer-moss, saxifrage clumps and sandwort of -dreary Labrador or Greenland. The view covers a wide expanse far away -westward to the Green Mountains, the landscape being everywhere dark -forests and peaks, with the massive slopes of Mount Clay nearer to the -northward, and the whole Presidential range, Mounts Jefferson, Adams -and Madison, stretching beyond. As one looks over the vast, dark, -undulating wilderness of peaks, it can be realized how the flood of -emotion made an entranced observer exclaim, in the hearing of Mr. -Starr King, "See the tumultuous bombast of the landscape." Nearing the -summit, the railway gradient is less steep, and here an opportunity is -given to peer over the edge of the "Great Gulf," a profound abyss on -the eastern mountain slope between Washington, Clay and Jefferson. -This hollow gulf, its sides and bottom covered with dark trees, -relieved by a little glistening pond at the bottom, stretches out to -the narrow valley along the eastern base of the range, known as the -Glen, down into which one can look at an angle of about forty-five -degrees. Rounding the mountain summit, the train halts at a broad -platform in front of the Summit Hotel. - -The top of Mount Washington is the highest elevation in the United -States east of the Rockies and north of the Carolinas. It is what may -be described as an arctic island, elevated sixty-two hundred and -ninety feet, in the temperate zone, and displaying both arctic -vegetation and temperature, the flora and climate being alike that of -Greenland. An observatory gives a higher view over the tops of the -buildings, and the first great impression of it is that the view seems -to be all around the world, limited only by the horizon. In every -direction are oceans of billowy peaks, the whole enormous circuit of -almost a thousand miles, embracing New England, New York, Canada and -the sea. The grand scene is at the same time gloomy. The almost -universal forests overspread everything with a mournful pall of sombre -green. The summit is spacious, and the contour of the mountain can on -all sides be plainly seen. Its slope to the westward, like all of the -Presidential range, is steeper than to the eastward, down which a -wagon-road zigzags into the Glen. Upon the eastern side, two long -spurs seem to brace the mountain, though profound ravines are there -cut into it. The southern slope of the summit pitches off suddenly, -while to the north there is a more gradual descent, both the railway -and wagon-road approaching that way. The original Tip-Top House, the -first inn erected, is preserved as a curiosity, a low and damp -structure built of the rough stones gathered on the mountain. The -newer hotel is of wood, with a steep roof, and is chained down to the -rocks to prevent the gales from blowing it over. There is a -weather-signal station at the summit, one of the most important posts -in the country. - - -THE GRAND MOUNTAIN VIEW. - -The Indians always held the White Mountains in reverent awe. They were -the religious shrine of the Pennacooks, who roamed over the region -between the mountains and the sea. The early historian Josselyn in the -seventeenth century recorded, of these Indians: "Ask them whither they -go when they dye; they will tell you, pointing with their finger, to -Heaven, beyond the White Mountains." Passaconaway, the great -wizard-chief of the Pennacooks, who was finally converted to -Christianity by the Apostle Eliot, is said to have lived to the great -age of one hundred and twenty years, and then to have been translated. -The Pennacook tradition was that in the cold of mid-winter he was -carried away from them in a weird sleigh drawn by wolves, that took -him to the summit of Mount Washington, whence he was straightway -received into Heaven: - - "Far o'er Winnepiseogee's ice, - With brindled wolves all harnessed then and there, - High seated on a sledge made in a trice - On Mount Agiochook of hickory, - He lashed and reeled and sang right jollily, - - And once upon a car of flaming fire, - The dreadful Indian shook with fear to see - The King of Pennacook, his chief, his sire, - Ride flaming up to Heaven, than any mountain higher." - -The first house on the mountain, built by Ethan Allen Crawford in -1821, was a small stone cabin having the floor covered with moss for -bedding, the only furniture being a chest to contain blankets, and a -stove; a roll of sheet-lead serving as the "register," on which the -guests scratched their names and the date of visit. This cabin was -swept away by a terrific storm in August, 1826. Some time later an -eccentric individual took possession of the summit, naming it "Trinity -Height," and called himself the modern "Israel of Jerusalem," -proposing to inaugurate in this exalted place a new Order, styled "The -Christian or Purple and Royal Democracy." With an eye to business, he -put toll-gates on the bridlepaths and taxed each visitor a dollar. -There were bitter quarrels about the ownership for years afterwards, -and the first winter ascent was made by a sheriff, who went up to -serve a writ in 1858, and found frost over a foot thick enveloping -everything. The lawsuits, however, were ultimately fought out and -settled, and the present owners have been undisturbed for years. - -The view from the summit is widespread. The most distant objects that -have been recognized are Mount Beloeil, northwest in Canada, and -Mount Ebeeme, northeast beyond the Moosehead Lake in Maine, each one -hundred and thirty-five miles away. These distant mountain tops are -said to be brought into view only by the aid of atmospheric -refraction, in raising them, as they are actually below the horizon. -Also northeast is Mount Abraham, sixty-eight miles away; and were it -not for this, Maine's greatest mountain, Katahdin, in the wilderness -of the upper Penobscot, might be seen, but Abraham obstructs the view. -Katahdin, rising nearly fifty-four hundred feet, is one hundred and -sixty-five miles northeast. Saddleback, at the head of the Rangeley -Lakes, is seen sixty miles away, and Bald Mountain, to the right, one -hundred miles off in Maine. To the eastward is seen Mount Megunticook, -in the Camden range, on Penobscot Bay, one hundred and fifteen miles -off. To the east and southeast for many miles is the ocean between -Casco Bay and Cape Ann. The sea, however, is never well viewed from -Mount Washington, because it is so nearly the color of the sky at the -horizon as to be difficult of acute discernment. The moving vessels, -however, can be readily seen by the aid of a glass. The bright waters -of Sebago Lake are to the southeast, and beyond are the shores of -Casco Bay and the city of Portland, sixty-seven miles off. The low -round swell of Mount Agamenticus shows faintly above the horizon, -seventy-nine miles south-southeast, and to the right there is also a -faint trace of the Isles of Shoals, ninety-six miles off. To the -southeast, twenty-two miles, is the sharpest and noblest peak of all -in the galaxy of view, the high, white, pyramidal top of Chocorua, -having the broad island-studded Lake Winnepesaukee to the right, with -the distant double peak of Mount Belknap seen over its clear waters. -Just to the west of south, and one hundred and four miles distant, is -the faint rounded summit of Mount Monadnock, near the southwest corner -of New Hampshire, and nearer is Mount Kearsarge, seventy miles off, -and appearing much similar. The Nelson Pinnacle, farther away, is to -the right of Kearsarge. The most distant mountain discernible in that -direction is Mount Wachusett, one hundred and twenty-six miles off. To -the southwest are seen Ascutney and the twin Killington Peaks, near -Rutland, Vermont, eighty-eight miles away. To the west are seen -plainly the two Green Mountain peaks of Mansfield and the Camel's -Hump, seventy-eight miles off, and over the northern slope of the -latter can be faintly detected the great Adirondack Mount Whiteface, -one hundred and thirty miles distant. Such is the splendid circuit of -mountains forming the horizon for Mount Washington. Among the striking -objects in the view are the deep river valleys as they go out from the -Presidential range. The Peabody flows through the Glen north to the -Androscoggin, which can be traced far northeast. The Ellis flows south -to the Saco, which goes out through the Notch and away southeast. The -valley of the Ammonoosuc runs off westward, where along the horizon is -the great trough of the Connecticut Valley stretching all across the -scene. Lakes and ponds are studded among the dark summits, and at the -observer's feet are the springs feeding many great rivers of New -England, the Merrimack, to the southward, also having its sources in -this great wilderness of mountains, which on all sides sends out -babbling brooks and silvery cataracts to bear their waters down to old -ocean. - - -THE GLEN AND NORTH CONWAY. - -The wagon-road from Mount Washington summit down to the base, is on -the eastern side, and is a little more than eight miles long, with an -average gradient of one to eight, descending into the Glen and -displaying magnificent views. The descent occupies about one hour, and -the ascent five hours. On the southeastern side of the mountain is -Tuckerman's Ravine, a huge gorge enclosed by rocky walls a thousand -feet high. This ravine usually displays the "Snow Arch" until late in -August, formed by a stream flowing out from under the huge masses of -snow piled up in winter, until it gradually melts away and collapses. -The main Glen is formed by the deep and thickly-wooded Pinkham Notch -at the eastern base of Mount Washington, its floor being at two -thousand feet elevation, and this Notch continues north and south in -deeply-carved stream beds, the Peabody River flowing northward to the -Androscoggin at Gorham and the Ellis River southward to the Saco. The -Peabody descends rapidly to the Androscoggin, entering it at about -eight hundred feet elevation, the active town of Gorham being located -here in a beautiful situation, and having two thousand people, at the -northern gateway to the White Mountains. The Androscoggin, having -drained the eastern mountain slopes, flows away into the State of -Maine to seek the Kennebec, and thence the sea. In the Glen, in the -coaching days, the old Glen House was the headquarters at the foot of -the road down Mount Washington, but it was burnt in 1894, and has not -been rebuilt. To the eastward, bounding the Glen, rise the Wild Cat -Ridge and the impressive Carter Dome, which would be a grand mountain -elsewhere, but here is dwarfed by the overshadowing Presidential range -on the western side. From the Pinkham Notch the little Ellis River -goes southward, and below the outlet of Tuckerman's Ravine is the -beautiful Crystal Cascade, where it pours down eighty feet over -successive step-like terraces. Another lovely cataract it makes is the -Glen Ellis Fall, which is considered the finest in the White -Mountains, on the slope of the Wild Cat Ridge. The stream slides down -an inclined plane of twenty feet over ledges, and then falls seventy -feet through a deep groove, twisted by bulges in the rocks and making -almost a complete turn. Thus sliding, foaming and falling, the -stream leaps nearly a hundred feet into a dark green pool beneath. The -Glen broadens as it progresses southward, and soon becomes a widened -intervale, having many houses for summer boarders. - - [Illustration: _Log Bridge over the Wild Cat, near Jackson, N. H._] - -Here is the pleasant village of Jackson in a broad basin, surrounded -by low mountains, making splendid views in all directions. There are -the Tin, Iron, Thorn and Moat Mountains, with others, the intervale -being almost covered with hotels, boarding-houses, and the accessories -of a popular summer resort, and having pretty cottages perched on the -hill-slopes all about. This pleasant resting-place was originally -called New Madbury, but at the opening of the nineteenth century it -was named in honor of President John Adams. It continued contentedly -as Adams until his son John Quincy became President, and in 1828, when -politics ran high and John Quincy Adams was again a candidate, it -happened that all the votes in the town of Adams but one were given to -his competitor, Andrew Jackson, who was elected, whereupon the town -changed its name to Jackson. Since then it has had a quiet history -excepting once, when, in 1875, they were building the railroad through -the White Mountain Notch, and the bears, scared by the powder-blasts -of the builders, came in droves to Jackson and almost captured the -town from the frightened inhabitants. Just beyond Jackson, in Lower -Bartlett, the Ellis flows into the Saco in a magnificent environment, -the Ellis and the Eastern Branch from the Carter range coming in -together, and making the Saco a great river. This is another paradise -for the seeker after the picturesque. From the little church of the -village, looking down over the Saco intervales, when flooded with -sunset light, gives a most fascinating view. An enraptured visitor has -written of this landscape seen from the church door: "One might -believe that he was looking through an air that had never enwrapped -any sin, upon a floor of some nook of the primitive Eden." Bartlett -was named in honor of Josiah Bartlett, a signer of the Declaration of -Independence, and its pioneer settler, John Poindexter, came eighty -miles on foot through the wilderness from Portsmouth, dragging his few -household effects on a hand-sled, his wife riding an old horse, with -the feather-bed for a saddle, and carrying the baby in her arms. - -The Saco Valley broadens below, and Intervale, another summer village, -is passed, and then North Conway, one of the most popular of the White -Mountain resorts. It spreads along a low sloping terrace on the -eastern verge of the widening valley, and looks out upon the river -with the elongated and massive ridge of Moat Mountain grandly rising -beyond. The town is largely built along a pleasant tree-bordered -street, having the Presidential range spread in magnificent array to -the northwest, sixteen miles away. To the southward the valley opens -over long stretches of fertile lowlands until the Saco turns sharply -to the eastward, seeking the sea. To the northward, the immediate -guardian of the valley is Mount Kearsarge, sometimes called Pequawket, -rising thirty-three hundred feet. Kearsarge means the "pointed pine -mountain," and its name was given the famous warship which fought and -sunk the privateer "Alabama." It is the beauty of the surroundings -which gives North Conway its charm, and the valley is called the -"Arcadia of the White Hills," where the harshness of the granite -ramparts beyond are in strange contrast with the genial repose of -these meadows, and the delicate curves of the long, swelling hills. -The restfulness of the scene is its attraction, everything -contributing to its serenity; even distant Mount Washington is said to -"not seem so much to stand up as to lie out at ease across the north; -the leonine grandeur is there, but it is the lion, not erect, but -couchant, a little sleepy, stretching out his paws and enjoying the -sun." Proud Chocorua, which is not far away, is also said to even -appear "a little tired," as seen from North Conway, and as if looking -wistfully down into - - "A land - In which it seemed always afternoon." - -These Conway intervales of the Saco were the Indian valley of -Pequawket, and its people have long been known as the Pigwackets. An -Indian village first occupied the site of North Conway, gradually -giving place to the rude huts of the colonists. It progressed greatly -by the trade through the mountain district, before the advent of the -railway, and was the chief stage-coach headquarters in those days. Now -it is quiet and restful, the excitements of the coaching times being -gone. Three miles below, the magnificent valley makes its grand bend -to the eastward, and the swelling Saco flows out through the State of -Maine and to the sea at the twin towns of Saco and Biddeford. - - -LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE. - -The southern verge of the White Mountains has many lower peaks and -ridges, including the Ossipee and Sandwich ranges, and finally they -all run off into the serrated shores of the extensive and beautiful -Lake Winnepesaukee, cut by long, sloping promontories and abounding in -islands. Thirteen miles southward from North Conway, near Madison, is -the largest erratic boulder of granite known to exist, which was -brought down and dropped there by the great glacier and is estimated -to weigh eight thousand tons. It is seventy-five feet long, forty -wide, and from thirty to thirty-seven feet high. Lake Winnepesaukee -washes all the southeastern flanks of the mountain region, and has -many peaks in grand array around its northern borders. The Indians -were so impressed with the attractive scenery of the lake that they -gave it the poetical name, meaning "the Smile of the Great Spirit." -The Sandwich Mountains are spread across its northern horizon, -showing the rocky summit of Mount Tecumseh, rising over four thousand -feet; Tripyramid and its great "Slide," marked along its face, where a -vast mass of rocks and forest went down the slope in the rainy season -of 1869, moving over a distance of two miles and falling twenty-one -hundred feet; the broad, rounded summit of the Sandwich "Dome;" the -sharp peak of Whiteface, also scratched by a wide landslide on its -southern slope; the lofty top of Passaconaway, rising forty-two -hundred feet; and the proud apex of Chocorua, regarded as the most -picturesque of all these mountains. Its much-admired peaks do not rise -as high as some of the others, thirty-five hundred feet, but are built -of a brilliant crystalline labradorite, called Chocorua granite, -presenting a striking appearance, and being entirely denuded of trees. -Chocorua was an Indian prophet of the Pequawkets, whose family was -slain by the whites, and he took a terrible revenge. A reward was -offered for his scalp, and his pursuers followed him to the mountain -top and shot him down. When dying, he invoked the curses of the Great -Spirit upon them, and the mountain now bears his sonorous name. For -years afterwards the curses came true; pestilence raged in the -adjacent valleys, cattle could not be kept, for they all died, and the -people submitted humbly to the affliction, believing it to be the -realization of the Indian's imprecation. But one day a scientific -fellow wandered that way, and being of an investigating turn, he soon -found the sickness was due to muriate of lime in the water. After that -discovery the Indian's curse went for naught. Now the whole country -roundabout is healthy, and filled with the balsamic atmosphere which -invigorates the admiring thousands who come to see the noble mountain. -Thus sings Whittier of it in _Among the Hills_, after a storm: - - "Through Sandwich Notch the west wind sang - Good morrow to the cotter; - And once again Chocorua's horn - Of shadow pierced the water. - - "Above his broad Lake Ossipee, - Once more the sunshine wearing, - Stooped, tracing on that silver shield - His grim armorial bearing. - - "For health comes sparkling in the streams - From cool Chocorua stealing: - There's iron in our northern winds; - Our pines are trees of healing." - -Lake Winnepesaukee, thus magnificently outstretched in front of these -lofty hills, is twenty-five miles long and in the centre about seven -miles wide, covering a surface, exclusive of its many islands, of -seventy square miles. It has wonderfully transparent water, being fed -by springs, and its outline is very irregular, pierced by deep, -elongated bays, and having broad peninsulas or necks of land -stretching far out from the mainland. The shores are composed mostly -of rocks, myriads of boulders being piled up along the water's edge as -if for a wall, making an attractive rocky border with the foliage -growing out of it. An archipelago of islands of all sizes and -characters is dotted over the lake, there being two hundred and -seventy-four of them, several having inhabitants. These are what Starr -King calls "the fleet of islands that ride at anchor on its -bosom--from little shallops to grand three-deckers." This attractive -lake is the storage-reservoir for the many mills on the Merrimack, -keeping their water-supply equable throughout the year by a dam at the -Weirs, the western outlet, raising the surface six feet and making its -level about five hundred feet above the sea. The railroads approach -the lake both at the Weirs and at Wolfboro' on the eastern verge, and -steamboats take the people over the lake to the various settlements on -its shores. Wolfboro' was named after the British General Wolfe who -fell on the Plains of Abraham, and is the largest town on the lake, -having three thousand people. It has a beautiful outlook over the -water from the adjacent high hills of Copple Crown and Tumble-Down -Dick, the latter getting its name from an unfortunate blind horse -"Dick," who once fell over a cliff on its side. - -The steamboat journey upon the lake discloses its beauties, the gentle -tree-clad shores with higher hills and mountains behind them, the many -pleasant cottages, and the wonderfully clear green waters. It is a -curious place, all arms and bays and great protruding necks of land, -the open spaces dotted with islands, so that everywhere there are long -vista views across the water and far up into the inlets of the shores, -while the large double peak of Mount Belknap stands up massive and -impressive at the southwestern border, and opposite in the northeast -is the proud white summit of Chocorua. Edward Everett, speaking of his -extensive travels in Europe, says, "My eye has yet to rest on a -lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from -Weirs Landing to Centre Harbor." The Weirs Landing is at the head of a -deep bay made by the outlet stream, and is a popular summer -camping-ground, the edge of the water fringed with cottages and the -adjacent groves used by the camps. Many fish ascended the outlet -stream in the early times seeking the clear waters, and the shallows -at the outlet were availed of by the Indians to set their nets, so -that it naturally got the name of the Weirs. Here, adjoining the -shore, is the ancient "Endicott Rock," which was marked by the first -surveyors sent up by Governor Endicott of Massachusetts to find the -source of the Merrimack. The outlet stream goes through a region of -many ponds and lakes bordered by large icehouses, the chief of these -waters being Lake Winnisquam, and all these extensive reservoirs help -to supply the great river of mill-wheels. The longest fiord indented -in the southern shore of Winnepesaukee is narrow and five miles long, -called Alton Bay, and it has a most attractive environment, with Mount -Belknap rising to the westward twenty-four hundred feet high. - -Upon the northern shore, grandly encircled by the Sandwich Mountains, -the most extensive bay running up into the land is Centre Harbor, and -here is a popular place of summer sojourn. Its background is a grand -mountain amphitheatre from Red Hill to the westward around to the dark -Ossipee range to the east, while in front, over the lake, is one of -the most charming views in nature, with its many islands, long arms, -deep bays, and strangely protruding elongated necks of wooded land. -Thus the delicious water scene stretches for over twenty miles away, -having in the distance the twin peaks of Belknap and the long and wavy -summits of the attendant ridges nestling low and blue at the southern -horizon. Climbing to the top of Red Hill, rising over two thousand -feet, this magnificent view is got in a way which one charmed observer -says "defies competition, as it transcends description; it is the -perfection of earthly prospects." Whittier, who was passionately fond -of this whole region, after admiring it from Red Hill, wrote the noble -invocation: - - "O, watched by silence and the night, - And folded in the strong embrace - Of the great mountains, with the light - Of the sweet heavens upon thy face-- - - "Lake of the Northland! keep thy dower - Of beauty still, and while above - Thy silent mountains speak of power, - Be thou the mirror of God's love." - -Far over to the westward can be traced the outlet stream, flowing past -many lakes and seeking the great river where these pellucid waters do -such useful work. Thus has Whittier, from this mountain outlook, sung -of the Merrimack: - - "O child of that white-crested mountain whose springs - Gush forth in the shade of the cliff-eagle's wings, - Down whose slopes to the lowlands thy cold waters shine, - Leaping gray walls of rock, flashing through the dwarf pine. - - "From that cloud-curtained cradle, so cold and so lone, - From the arms of that wintry-locked mother of stone, - By hills hung with forests, through vales wide and free, - Thy mountain-born brightness glanced down to the sea." - - - - -GOING DOWN EAST. - - - - -XVIII. - -GOING DOWN EAST. - - Salisbury, Hampton and Rye Beaches -- Portsmouth -- Kittery - -- Newcastle Island -- Wentworth House -- Isles of Shoals - -- Appledore -- Star Island -- Pirates' Haunts -- Boon - Island -- Nottingham Wreck -- Agamenticus -- York Beach -- - Cape Neddick -- Wells -- Kennebunk River -- Saco River -- - Biddeford and Saco -- Old Orchard -- Scarborough -- Casco - Bay -- Portland -- Cape Elizabeth -- "Enterprise" and - "Boxer" Fight -- Sebago Lake -- Poland Springs -- - Androscoggin River -- Rumford Falls -- Livermore Falls -- - Lewiston Falls -- Brunswick -- Bowdoin College -- Merry - Meeting Bay -- Kennebec River -- Moosehead Lake -- Mount - Kineo -- Norridgewock -- Mogg Megone -- Father Rale -- - Skowhegan Falls -- Taconic Falls -- Waterville -- Augusta - -- Lumber and Ice -- Bath -- Sheepscott Bay -- Monhegan -- - Pemaquid -- Fort Frederick -- Wiscasset -- Penobscot River - -- Norumbega -- Sieur de Monts -- Acadia -- Pentagoet -- - Baron de Castine -- The Tarratines -- Muscongus -- Camden - Mountains -- Rockland -- Islesboro' -- Penobscot - Archipelago -- Belfast -- Bucksport -- Bangor -- Mount - Desert Island -- Bar Harbor -- Somes' Sound -- Fogs -- - Mount Desert Rock -- Passamaquoddy Bay -- Grand Manan -- - Quoddy Head -- Lubec -- Campobello -- Eastport -- St. Croix - River -- Calais and St. Stephen -- New Brunswick -- Bay of - Fundy -- High Tides -- St. John City -- Madame La Tour -- - River St. John -- The Reversible Cataract -- Grand Falls -- - Tobique River -- Pokiok River -- Frederickton -- - Maugerville -- Gagetown -- Kennebecasis Bay -- Digby Gut -- - Annapolis Basin -- Digby Wharf -- Yarmouth -- Annapolis - Royal -- Basin of Minas -- Land of Evangeline -- Grand Pré - -- Cape Blomidon -- The Acadian Removal -- Cape Split -- - Glooscap -- Chignecto Ship Railway -- Windsor -- Sam Slick - -- The Flying Bluenose -- Halifax -- Chebucto -- Seal - Island -- Tusket River -- Guysborough -- Cape Canso -- - Sable Island -- Truro -- Pictou -- Prince Edward Island -- - Charlottetown -- Summerside -- Canso Strait -- Cape Breton - Island -- The Arm of Gold -- Isle Madame -- St. Peter's - Inlet -- The Bras d'Or Lakes -- Baddeck -- Sydney -- - Spanish Bay -- Cape Breton -- English Port -- Louisbourg -- - The Great Acadian Fortress -- Its Two Surrenders -- Its - Destruction -- Magdalen Islands -- Gannet Rock -- Deadman's - Isle -- Tom Moore's Poem. - - -NEWBURYPORT TO PORTSMOUTH. - -We will start on a journey towards the rising sun, searching for the -elusive region known as "Down East." Most people recognize this as the -country beyond New York, but when they inquire for it among the -Connecticut Yankees they are always pointed onward. Likewise in -Boston, the true "Down East" is said to be farther along the coast. -Pass the granite headland of Cape Ann, and it is still beyond. Samuel -Adams Drake tells of asking the momentous question of a Maine -fisherman getting up his sail on the Penobscot: "Whither bound?" -Promptly came the reply: "Sir, to you--Down East." Thus the mythical -land is ever elusive, and finally gets away off among the "Blue Noses" -of the Canadian maritime provinces. We cross the Merrimack from -Newburyport in searching for it, and enter the New Hampshire coast -border town of Seabrook, where the people are known as the -"Algerines," and where salt-marshes, winding streams, forests and -rocks vary the view with long, sandy beaches out on the ocean front, -having hotels and cottages scattered along them. Here are noted -resorts--Salisbury Beach, Hampton Beach and Rye Beach--all crowded -with summer visitors. For over two centuries on a certain day in -August, the New Hampshire people have visited Salisbury Beach by -thousands, to keep up an ancient custom. Here Whittier pitched his -_Tent on the Beach_ he has so graphically described. It was at Hampton -village in 1737, that occurred the parley which resulted in giving the -infant colony of New Hampshire its narrow border of seacoast. -Massachusetts had settled this region, and that powerful province was -bound to possess it, though the King had made an adverse grant. Into -Hampton rode in great state the Governor of Massachusetts at the head -of his Legislature, and escorted by five troops of horse, formally -demanding possession of the maritime townships. He met the Governor of -New Hampshire in the George Tavern, and the demand was refused. The -latter sent a plaintive appeal to the King, declaring that "the vast, -opulent and overgrown province of Massachusetts was devouring the -poor, little, loyal, distressed province of New Hampshire." The royal -heart was touched and the King commanded Massachusetts to surrender -her claim to two tiers of townships, twenty-eight in number, thus -giving New Hampshire her present scant eighteen miles of coast-line. -Rye Beach is the most popular of these seashore resorts, and not far -beyond is Piscataqua River, the New Hampshire eastern boundary. - -Here is the quaint and quiet old town of Portsmouth, three miles from -the sea, and having about ten thousand people. Opposite, on -Continental Island, adjoining the Maine shore, is the Kittery Navy -Yard, where the warship "Kearsarge" was built. Commerce has about -surrendered to the superior attractions of a summer resort at -Portsmouth, and the comfortable old dwellings in their extensive -gardens show the wealth accumulated by bygone generations. To this -place originally came the "founder of New Hampshire," Captain Mason, -who had been the Governor of the Southsea Castle in Portsmouth harbor, -England, and at his suggestion, the settlement, originally called -Strawberry Bank, from the abundance of wild strawberries, was named -Portsmouth. The Piscataqua is formed above by the union of the Salmon -Falls and Cocheco Rivers, both admirable water-powers, serving large -factories, and the whole region adjacent to Portsmouth harbor is -bordered by islands and interlaced with waterways, some of them yet -displaying the remains of the colonial defensive forts. At Kittery -Point, near the Navy Yard, was born and is buried the greatest man of -colonial fame in that region, Sir William Pepperell, the famous leader -of the Puritan expedition that captured Louisbourg from the French in -1745. The noted "Mrs. Partington," B. P. Shillaber, was born in -Portsmouth in 1814. - -Adjoining the harbor, and with a broad beach facing the sea, is -Newcastle Island, incorporated for the annual fee of three -peppercorns, by King William III. and Queen Mary in the seventeenth -century. Here lived in semi-regal state the Wentworths, who were the -colonial governors, their memory now preserved by the vast modern -Wentworth Hotel, whose colossal proportions are visible far over land -and sea. The old Wentworth House at Little Harbor, wherein was held -the provincial court, still remains--an irregular, quaint but -picturesque building--its most noted occupant having been the courtly -and gouty old Governor Benning Wentworth, who named Bennington in -Vermont, and whose wedding on his sixtieth birthday has given -Longfellow one of his most striking themes, the "Poet's Tale" at _The -Wayside Inn_. The poet tells of the appearance one day in Queen -Street, Portsmouth, of Martha Hilton, - - "A little girl, - Barefooted, ragged, with neglected hair, - Eyes full of laughter, neck and shoulders bare, - A thin slip of a girl, like a new moon, - Sure to be rounded into beauty soon, - A creature men would worship and adore, - Though now, in mean habiliments, she bore - A pail of water, dripping, through the street, - And bathing, as she went, her naked feet." - -The buxom landlady at the inn, "Mistress Stavers in her furbelows," -felt called upon to give her sharp reproof: - - "'O Martha Hilton! Fie! how dare you go - About the town half-dressed, and looking so!' - At which the gypsy laughed, and straight replied: - 'No matter how I look; I yet shall ride - In my own chariot, ma'am.'" - -The old Governor was a widower and childless, and in course of time -Martha came to be employed at Wentworth House as maid-of-all-work, not -wholly unobserved by him, as the sequel proved. He arranged a feast -for his sixtieth birthday, and all the great people of the colony were -at his table. - - "When they had drunk the King, with many a cheer, - The Governor whispered in a servant's ear, - Who disappeared, and presently there stood - Within the room, in perfect womanhood, - A maiden, modest and yet self possessed, - Youthful and beautiful, and simply dressed. - Can this be Martha Hilton? It must be! - Yes, Martha Hilton, and no other she! - Dowered with the beauty of her twenty years, - How lady-like, how queen-like she appears; - The pale, thin crescent of the days gone by - Is Dian now in all her majesty! - Yet scarce a guest perceived that she was there - Until the Governor, rising from his chair, - Played slightly with his ruffles, then looked down, - And said unto the Reverend Arthur Brown: - 'This is my birthday; it shall likewise be - My wedding day; and you shall marry me!' - - "The listening guests were greatly mystified, - None more so than the rector, who replied: - 'Marry you? Yes, that were a pleasant task, - Your Excellency; but to whom? I ask.' - The Governor answered: 'To this lady here;' - And beckoned Martha Hilton to draw near. - She came, and stood, all blushes, at his side. - The rector paused. The impatient Governor cried: - 'This is the lady; do you hesitate? - Then I command you as chief magistrate.' - The rector read the service loud and clear: - 'Dearly beloved, we are gathered here,' - And so on to the end. At his command, - On the fourth finger of her fair left hand - The Governor placed the ring; and that was all: - Martha was Lady Wentworth of the Hall!" - - -THE ISLES OF SHOALS. - -Out in the Atlantic Ocean, six miles off the harbor entrance, and ten -miles from Portsmouth, is one of the strangest places existing, the -collection of crags and reefs known as the Isles of Shoals, their dim -and shadowy outline lying like a cloud along the edge of the horizon. -There are nine islands in the group, the chief being Appledore, rising -from the sea much like a hog's back, and hence the original name of -Hog Island. It covers about four hundred acres, and the whole group -does not have much over six hundred acres. Star Island is smaller; -Haley's or Smutty Nose, with Malaga and Cedar, are connected by a sort -of breakwater; and there are four little islets--Duck, White's, -Seavey's and Londoner's--and upon White Island is the lighthouse for -the group, with a revolving light of alternating red and white -flashes, elevated eighty-seven feet and visible fifteen miles at sea. -A covered way leads back over the crags from the tower to the -keeper's cottage. To this light there come answering signals from the -Whale's Back Light at the Piscataqua entrance, from solitary Boon -Island out at sea to the northward, and from the twin beacons of -Thatcher's Island off Cape Ann to the south. As darkness falls, one -after another these beacons blaze out as so many guiding stars across -the waters. One of the noted sayings of John Quincy Adams was that he -never saw these coast lights in the evening without recalling the -welcoming light which Columbus said he saw flashing from the shore, -when he discovered the New World. - - "I lit the lamps in the lighthouse tower, - For the sun dropped down and the day was dead; - They shone like a brilliant clustered flower, - Two golden and five red." - -The Isles of Shoals are a remarkable formation--rugged ledges of rock -out in the ocean bearing scarcely any vegetation; and on some of them -not a blade of grass is seen. Four islands stretching in a line make -the outside of the strange group--bare reefs, with water-worn, flinty -surfaces, against which the sea beats. Not a tree grew anywhere until -a little one was planted on Appledore, in front of the hotel, and -another dwarf was coaxed to grow in the little old graveyard on Star -Island. Their best vegetation was low huckleberry bushes, until -someone thought of gathering soil enough to make grass patches for a -cow or two. The utter desolation of these rocks, thus cast off -apparently from the rest of the world, can hardly be realized, yet -they have their admirers. Celia Thaxter, the poetess, was the daughter -of the White's Island lightkeeper, and to her glowing pen much of -their fame is due. She died on Appledore in 1894. The curious name of -these islands first appears in the log of their discoverer, Champlain, -who coasted along here in 1605. They were always prolific fishery -grounds, and the name seems to have been given them from "the shoaling -or schooling of the fish around them." In a deed from the Indians in -1629 they are called the Isles of Shoals. Captain John Smith visited -and described them in 1614, and with his customary audacity tried to -name them "Smith's Islands," but without success. The boundary-line -dividing Maine and New Hampshire passes through the group between Star -and Appledore. The peculiar grouping makes a good harbor between these -two, opening westward towards the mainland, and amply protected from -the sea by the smaller islands outside. These rugged crags resemble -the bald and rounded peaks of a sunken volcano thrust upward from the -sea, with this little harbor forming its crater. When Nathaniel -Hawthorne visited them, he wrote: "As much as anything else, it seems -as if some of the massive materials of the world remained superfluous -after the Creator had finished, and were carelessly thrown down here, -where the millionth part of them emerge from the sea, and in the -course of thousands of years have become partially bestrewn with a -little soil." Their savagery during violent storms, when surrounded by -surf and exposed to the ocean's wildest fury, becomes almost -overwhelming, and they actually seem to reel beneath the feet. - -Star Island originally had a village of fishermen, until they were -sent away to make room for the summer hotel. It was the town of -Gosport, and its little church and tiny bell-tower are visible from -afar over the water. The original church was built of timbers from the -wreck of a Spanish vessel in 1685, and the present little stone church -is as old as the nineteenth century. It had several faithful pastors, -who were buried on the island, among them Rev. John Brook, of whom the -quaint historian Cotton Mather tells the anecdote illustrating the -efficacy of prayer: A child lay sick and so nearly dead those present -believed it had actually expired, "but Mr. Brook, perceiving some life -in it, goes to prayer, and in his prayer used this expression: 'Lord, -wilt thou not grant some sign before we leave prayer that thou wilt -spare and heal this child? We cannot leave thee till we have it.' The -child sneezed immediately." On the highest part of Star Island is the -broken monument to John Smith, put up by some of his admirers not long -ago, bearing the three Moslem heads representing the Turks he had -slain, but vandals have ruined it. The diminutive fort defending Star -Island in colonial times has been abandoned more than a century, and -nestling beneath it is the old graveyard, part of the walls remaining, -and a few dilapidated gravestones. All the original inhabitants of the -island are dead, their descendants scattered, and fashionable -pleasuring now dominates this reef and its restless waters. - -As might be expected, a place like these islands was a favorite haunt -for pirates in the colonial days. Around them cruised Captain Kidd, -the notorious Blackbeard, and Hawkins, Phillips, Low, Ponad, and other -famous pirates, and in fact the ghost of one of Kidd's men is said to -still haunt Appledore. Many and bold were the gentry who in those days -hoisted the "Jolly Roger" flag, with its grinning skull and -cross-bones, and cruised in this picturesque region for glory and -plunder. It was near the route between Boston and the Provinces and to -Europe, and hence the valuable prey that allured them. Here sailed -Captain Teach of ferocious countenance, piercing black eyes and -enormous beard, who came to be familiarly known and feared as -"Blackbeard." He was said to be "in league with the Devil and the -Governor of North Carolina," and had an uncomfortable habit of firing -loaded pistols in the dark, without caring much who got hit. In fact, -it is recorded he once told his trusty crew he had to kill a man -occasionally merely to prove he was captain. He also kept a diary, -making characteristic entries, such as these: "Rum all out; our -company somewhat sober; rogues a-plotting; confusion among us; so I -looked for a prize." And this next day: "Took a prize with a great -deal of liquor on board; so kept the ship's company hot, and all went -well again." Blackbeard is supposed to have buried treasures on these -islands, and the fishermen tell how they have seen the ghost of his -mistress, gazing intently seaward, on a low, projecting point of White -Island, a tall and shapely figure wrapped in a long cloak. Blackbeard -ruled these waters until Lieutenant Maynard, with two armed sloops, -went after him, captured his ship, met him in single combat, and after -a hand-to-hand fight, in which both received fearful wounds, finally -pinned the pirate to the deck with his dagger, closing his interesting -career. - -Captain Kidd, who sailed in these parts, was not so ferocious as -Blackbeard. It is said that at first he always swore-in his crew on -the Bible, but afterwards finding this interfered with business, he -buried his Bible in the sand. Captain Low captured a fishing-smack off -these islands, but disappointed of booty, had the crew flogged, and -then gave each man the alternative of being hanged or of three times -vigorously cursing old Cotton Mather, which latter, it is recorded, -"all did with alacrity." It is probable this punishment was inflicted -by the pirate because it was the custom of the Puritan clergymen, -when pirates were condemned, to have them brought into church, and as -a proper preliminary to the hanging, preach long and powerful sermons -to them on the enormity of their crimes and the torments awaiting in -the next world. This same Captain Low is said to have once captured a -Virginia vessel, and was so pleased with her captain that he invited -him to share a bowl of punch. The Virginian, however, demurred, having -scruples about drinking with a pirate, whereupon Low presented a -cocked pistol to his ear and a glass of punch to his mouth, pleasantly -remarking: "Either take one or the other." The captain took punch. -Another rover of the seas, Phillips, captured the Dolphin, a -fishing-vessel, and made all her crew turn pirates. John Fillmore, one -of them, started a mutiny, killed Phillips, and took the Dolphin back -to Boston. His great-great-grandson was President Millard Fillmore. -There was also at one time a famous woman pirate in this region--Anne -Bonney, an Irish girl from Cork, who fell in love with Captain -Rockham, a pirate, who was afterwards captured and hanged. Before the -capture she fought bravely, and, as she expressed it, "was one of the -last men left upon the deck." There was much that was fascinating in -the desperate careers of the lawless buccaneers who swept the New -England coasts in the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. They -were for years masters of the ocean, and they even sent defiance to -the King himself: - - "Go tell the King of England, go tell him thus from me, - Though he reigns king o'er all the land, I will reign king at sea." - -All around the Isles of Shoals, when the sun sinks and twilight -comes-- - - "From the dim headlands many a lighthouse gleams, - The street lamps of the ocean." - -Far away to the northeast a single white star appears eleven miles -off, on the solitary rock of Boon Island, out in mid-ocean, where not -a pound of soil exists, excepting what has been carried there. One of -the worst wrecks of modern times occurred on this rock before the -lighthouse was built. The "Nottingham," from London, was driven -ashore, the crew with difficulty gaining the island when the ship -broke up. They had no food; day by day their sufferings from cold and -hunger increased; the mainland was in full view and they built a raft -of pieces of wreck to try and get there, but it was swamped; they -signalled passing vessels, but could not attract attention. Gradually -they sank into hopelessness, but thought to make a final effort by -constructing another rude raft, on which two of them tried to reach -the shore. It too was wrecked, being afterwards found on the beach -with a dead man alongside. Then hope entirely failed them, and to -sustain life they became cannibals, living on the body of the ship's -carpenter, sparingly doled out to them by the captain. Eventually the -survivors were rescued, the wrecked raft being their preserver. When -it was found, the people on shore started a search for the builders, -and they were discovered and taken off the island, after twenty-four -days of starvation. Then the lighthouse was built on Boon Island, and -its steady white star gleams in nightly warning: - - "Steadfast, serene, immovable, the same - Year after year, through all the silent night, - Burns on for evermore that quenchless flame, - Shines on that inextinguishable light! - - "A new Prometheus chained upon the rock, - Still grasping in his hand the fire of Jove, - It does not hear the cry nor heed the shock, - But hails the mariner with words of love. - - "'Sail on!' it says, 'sail on, ye stately ships! - And with your floating bridge the ocean span; - Be mine to guard this light from all eclipse; - Be yours to bring man nearer unto man!'" - - -MOUNT AGAMENTICUS TO OLD ORCHARD. - -Beyond the Piscataqua River is the famous "Pine-Tree State," noted for -its noble forests and its many splendid havens. This is Whittier's -"hundred-harbored Maine," and such are the sinuosities of its -remarkable coast, that while its whole distance from Kittery Point to -Quoddy Head is two hundred and seventy-eight miles, the actual length -of the shore-line stretches to twenty-five hundred miles, and if -straightened out would reach across the Atlantic. The great landmark -of this coast beyond Kittery, standing in gloomy isolation down by the -shore, is the "sailor's mountain," Agamenticus, rising six hundred and -seventy-three feet, a sentinel visible far out at sea. It is a -solitary eminence, lifted high above the surrounding country and -having three summits of almost equal altitude, the sides clothed with -dark forests. This graceful and imposing mountain gave James Russell -Lowell an attractive theme in his _Pictures from Appledore_: - - "He glowers there to the north of us, - Wrapt in his mantle of blue haze, - Unconvertibly savage, and scorns to take - The white man's baptism on his ways. - Him first on shore the coaster divines - Through the early gray, and sees him shake - The morning mist from his scalplock of pines; - Him first the skipper makes out in the west - Ere the earliest sunstreak shoots tremulous, - Plashing with orange the palpitant lines - Of mutable billow, crest after crest, - And murmurs 'Agamenticus!' - As if it were the name of a saint." - -Almost under the shadow of the mountain is the quiet old town of York, -the "ancient city of Agamenticus," founded by Sir Ferdinando Gorgues -in the early seventeenth century as Gorgeana, the place of first -settlement in Maine. Now it is a summer-resort, with York Beach -stretching along the coast, having Cape Neddick at its northern end -thrust out into the sea, with the curious rocky islet of the Nubble, -and surmounting lighthouse, off its extremity. Four miles beyond, -there projects the frowning promontory of the Bald Head Cliff and its -lofty Pulpit Rock, an almost perpendicular wall rising ninety feet, -with the breakers beating at its base. Farther along, the coast is a -succession of magnificent beaches all the way to Casco Bay, and the -broad road they furnish is the chief highway. Wells is a popular -summer resort, and beyond it the charming little Kennebunk River comes -down through the hills and woods and over falls, past Kennebunkport to -the sea. Then the broader Saco River is reached, its ample current -drawn from the White Mountains, plunging down a cataract of fifty-five -feet around which are gathered the mills of the twin towns of -Biddeford and Saco, having the river between them, and a population of -over twenty thousand. Their steeples rise above the trees, and one of -these, a French Catholic church in Biddeford, has little trees growing -out of its spire. Sawmills and cotton-mills largely use the ample -power of the Saco Falls. The beach fronting Saco gradually dissolves -into the noted Old Orchard Beach, stretching nearly ten miles to -Scarborough River, the finest beach in New England, over three hundred -feet wide and named from an apple orchard that once stood there, of -which the last ancient tree died before the Revolution. There are -numerous hotels and boarding-houses scattered along this broad beach, -and its people completed in 1898 one of the longest ocean piers -existing, which extends nearly two thousand feet into the sea. -Scarborough Beach is beyond, and around the broad end of Cape -Elizabeth is the entrance to Casco Bay, marked by the "Two Lights" on -the eastern extremity of the cape, these powerful white beacons being -about nine hundred feet apart. Almost under their shadow, in 1862, the -Allan Line steamer "Bohemian" was wrecked with fearful loss of life. -Within Casco Bay is an archipelago of over three hundred and fifty -islands, stretching eastward for twenty miles to the mouth of the -Kennebec. Many of these islands are favorite summer resorts, and their -surrounding waters are always haunts for yachts, the bay being an -admirable yachting ground. - - -PORTLAND. - -The city of Portland, with over forty thousand people, is the -metropolis of Maine and the winter port of Canada, which has to use it -when the river St. Lawrence is frozen. It is built upon an elevated -and hilly peninsula projecting eastwardly into Casco Bay, and having -commanding eminences at each extremity,--the western being Bramhall's -Hill and the eastern Munjoy's Hill,--spacious promenades having been -made around both for outlooks. The city being almost surrounded by -water, and the bold shores of the bay enclosing so many beautiful -tree-clad islands, there are magnificent views in every direction. -The streets are finely shaded, mostly with elms, so that it is often -called the "Forest City." This was the Indian land of Machigonne, to -which the English first came in 1632, and there yet remain some -stately trees of that time, which are among the charms of the pleasant -park of the Deering Oaks at the West End, from which State Street -leads into the best residential section, bordered by double rows of -elms, making a grand overarching bower. Here, in a circle at the -intersection of Congress Street, is an impressive bronze statue of -Longfellow, who was born in Portland in 1807, the poet sitting -meditatively in his chair. Among the other distinguished citizens have -been Commodore Edward Preble, Neal Dow, N. P. Willis, Mrs. Parton -(Fanny Fern) and Thomas B. Reed, who long represented Portland in -Congress. The city has an air of comfort, and its broad-fronted, -vine-covered homes look enticing. From its hills the outlook is -superb, particularly that from the Eastern Promenade encircling -Munjoy's Hill, where the view is over Casco Bay and its many arms and -forest-fringed rocky islands. On the eastern side, Falmouth Foreside -stretches out to the distant ocean, while the western shore is the -broad peninsula terminating in Cape Elizabeth. This hill has a -commanding prospect over one of the most bewitching scenes in -nature,--the island-studded Casco Bay, having the famous Cushing's -Island at the outer verge of the archipelago protecting most of the -harbor from the ocean waves. Upon other islands down the bay are three -old forts, two of them abandoned, while the flag floats over the more -modern works of Fort Preble. Portland was originally called Falmouth, -not receiving the present name till 1786. In a beautiful spot on -Munjoy's Hill is the monument to the founder, its inscription being -"George Cheeves, Founder of Portland, 1699." Upon this hill is the old -cemetery containing Preble's grave. He commanded the American squadron -in the war against Tripoli in 1803, and died in Portland in 1807. Also -in this cemetery rest alongside each other two noted naval officers of -the War of 1812-14 with England--Burrows and Blythe. They commanded -rival warships, the American "Enterprise" and the British "Boxer," -that fought on Sunday, September 5, 1814, off Pemaquid Point, near the -mouth of the Kennebec, the adjacent shores being covered with -spectators. The "Enterprise" captured the "Boxer" and brought her a -prize into Portland harbor. Both commanders were killed in the fight, -and their bodies were brought ashore, each wrapped in the flag he had -so bravely served, and the same honors were paid both in the double -funeral. Longfellow recalls this as one of the memories of his youth: - - "I remember the sea-fight far away, - How it thundered o'er the tide! - And the dead captains, as they lay - In their graves, o'erlooking the tranquil bay, - Where they in battle died." - - [Illustration: _House of "The Pearl of Orr's Island," Casco Bay, Me._] - - -THE ANDROSCOGGIN. - -Maine has more than fifteen hundred lakes, scattered everywhere -through its extensive forests. Seventeen miles northwest of Portland -is Sebago Lake, one of the most attractive, an islet-dotted expanse, -fourteen miles long and ten miles wide, its Indian name meaning "the -stretch of water." Into it flows the rapid and devious Songo River, -discharging Long Lake, a little over two miles distant, but the boat -journey on the river to that lake is for six miles and around -twenty-seven bends. Thirty-eight miles northwest of Portland is Poland -Springs, the chief inland watering-place of Maine, with pure air, the -finest waters and large hotels. To the northward the Androscoggin -River, flowing from the flanks of the White Mountains, sweeps -eastwardly across the State, and then turns southward to unite its -current with the Kennebec in Merry Meeting Bay. Not far from the New -Hampshire boundary it pours down the Rumford Falls, one of the finest -of cataracts, the river making three or four leaps over ragged, -granite ledges, aggregating one hundred and sixty feet descent, the -final fall being nearly seventy feet, making a great roaring, heard -for a long distance. Here is a town of textile and paper-mills, with -three thousand people. Having turned to the southward, the river comes -to the Livermore Falls, another manufacturing village on the Indian -domain of Rockomeka, or the "great corn land." Here were born the -famous brothers Israel, Elihu B. and Cadwalader C. Washburne, who were -so long in the public service, representing Maine, Illinois and -Wisconsin. A handsome Gothic public library built of granite has been -erected as their memorial. Farther along is Leeds, the birthplace of -General Oliver O. Howard, and then some distance below the river -plunges down the Lewiston Falls of fifty-two feet at the second city -in Maine, the towns of Auburn and Lewiston having twenty-five thousand -population, chiefly employed in the manufacture of textiles, there -being large numbers of French Canadians in the mills. Bates College, -with two hundred students, is one of the chief buildings of Lewiston. - -Eastward from Casco Bay to the Androscoggin is a rough wooded country -becoming, however, rather more level as the river is approached. The -Androscoggin having come down from the north, sweeps around to the -northeast to enter Merry Meeting Bay, and at the bend, about thirty -miles from Portland, is Brunswick, at the head of tidewater, with over -six thousand population, largely employed in its mills. The river -falls forty-one feet here in three separate cataracts, giving an -enormous water-power. This was the Indian Pejepscot, where the English -built Fort George in 1715, known as "the key of Western Maine." The -city is chiefly noted now as the seat of Bowdoin College, the chief -educational institution of Maine, incorporated in 1794, and opened in -1802 with an endowment by the State. It has nearly four hundred -students and attractive buildings, the most conspicuous one being -surmounted by twin spires, which are seen from afar in approaching the -town, rising above the trees with a thick growth of pines behind them. -This college had President Franklin Pierce, Hawthorne, Longfellow and -Chief Justice Fuller among its graduates, and Longfellow was its -professor of modern languages until 1835, when he was called to -Harvard. Harriet Beecher Stowe wrote _Uncle Tom's Cabin_ in Brunswick -in 1851-2, when her husband was in the Bowdoin College faculty. Pierre -Baudouin, a Huguenot refugee from La Rochelle, came to Portland in -1687; and his grandson, who was Governor of Massachusetts in 1785-6, -had his name given the college, the great-grandson, James Bowdoin 2nd, -the noted diplomatist, having been most liberal in his gifts to it. -Beyond Brunswick the Androscoggin broadens into Merry Meeting Bay, -which is finally absorbed by the Kennebec. - - -THE KENNEBEC. - -The Kennebec River, the Indian "large water place," is one of the -greatest streams of Maine, having its source in its largest lake, -Moosehead, surrounded by forests. This lake is at an elevation of over -a thousand feet, is thirty-five miles long, and has a surface of two -hundred and twenty square miles. The shores are generally monotonous, -excepting where the long peninsula of Mount Kineo is projected from -the eastern side so far into the lake as to narrow it to little more -than a mile width. Mount Kineo is nine hundred feet high, rising -abruptly on the south and east, but sloping gradually to the water on -the other sides. To the northeast, Spencer Mountain is seen rising -four thousand feet, with Katahdin, the Indian "greatest mountain," in -the distance. This magnificent summit, the highest in Maine, rises -nearly fifty-four hundred feet. All about Moosehead Lake and far to -the northward over the Canadian border is a vast forest wilderness, -full of lakes and streams, visited chiefly by the timber-cutters and -sportsmen, and one of the favorite hunting and angling regions of the -country. From the southwestern extremity of the lake the Kennebec -River flows out towards the sea, and in a winding course of a hundred -miles descends a thousand feet of rapids and cataracts, until it -reaches the tidal level at Augusta. It narrows at Solon to only forty -feet as it goes over the Carrituck Falls of twenty feet. Then it -passes Old Point and comes to Norridgewock, where several ancient elms -of enormous size border the street along the river bank. This is the -scene of Whittier's poem of _Mogg Megone_, and along here lived the -ancient Norridgewocks. At Old Point was their chief town, and as early -as 1610 French missionary priests sent out from Quebec settled among -them, the famous Jesuit, Sebastian Rale, coming about 1670 and living -there over forty years, being not only the spiritual but finally the -political head of the tribe. He was a man of high culture, and had -been professor of Greek at the College of Nismes, in France. The tribe -belonged to the Canabis branch of the Abenaquis nation, and he -prepared a complete dictionary of their language (now preserved in -Harvard University), which he described as "a powerful and flexible -language--the Greek of America." - -In the early eighteenth century wars broke out between these Indians -under the French flag and the Puritans of New England. It is said that -Father Rale had a superb consecrated banner floating before his -church, emblazoned with the cross, and a bow and sheaf of arrows. This -was often borne as a crusading flag against the Puritan border -villages. Norridgewock was destroyed by a sudden raid in 1705, and -peace following, an envoy was sent to Boston to demand an indemnity, -and also that workmen be sent to rebuild the church. Both were -promised on condition that they would accept a Puritan pastor, but -this was declined. The Indians rebuilt their village, and it was again -destroyed by a plundering raid in 1722, and in revenge they then made -a fearful ravaging expedition in which the Maine coast towns paid -dearly. The English seacoast colonists consequently decided that for -protection Norridgewock must be taken and the tribe driven away, a -price being set upon Rale's head. In August, 1724, a strong party of -New England rangers marched secretly and swiftly, and, before their -presence was known, had surrounded the village and began firing -through the wigwams. A few Indians escaped, but nearly the whole -tribe--men, women and children--were massacred. Charlevoix writes of -it that "the noise and tumult gave Père Rale notice of the danger his -converts were in, and he fearlessly showed himself to the enemy, -hoping to draw all their attention to himself, and to secure the -safety of his flock at the peril of his life. He was not disappointed. -As soon as he appeared the English set up a great shout, which was -followed by a shower of shot, when he fell dead near to the cross -which he had erected in the midst of the village. Seven chiefs, who -sheltered his body with their own, fell around him." His mutilated -body was afterwards found at the foot of the cross and buried there. -The place lay desolate for a half-century, when English settlers came -in 1773, and in 1833 a granite memorial obelisk was erected on the -site of the ancient church. Thus Whittier describes the tragedy: - - "Fearfully over the Jesuit's face, - Of a thousand thoughts, trace after trace, - Like swift cloud shadows, each other chase. - One instant, his fingers grasp his knife, - For a last vain struggle for cherished life,-- - The next, he hurls the blade away, - And kneels at his altar's foot to pray; - Over his beads his fingers stray, - And he kisses the cross, and calls aloud - On the Virgin and her Son; - For terrible thoughts his memory crowd - Of evils seen and done,-- - Of scalps brought home by his savage flock - From Casco and Sawga and Sagadahock - In the Church's service won. - - "Through the chapel's narrow doors, - And through each window in the walls, - Round the priest and warrior pours - The deadly shower of English balls. - Low on his cross the Jesuit falls: - While at his side the Norridgewock - With failing breath essays to mock - And menace yet the hated foe,-- - Shakes his scalp-trophies to and fro - Exultingly before their eyes,-- - Till cleft and torn by shot and blow, - Defiant still, he dies." - -The Kennebec, turning grandly to the eastward, five miles below pours -over the falls of Skowhegan, descending twenty-eight feet upon rough -ledges, having a picturesque island ending at the crest of the -cataract, with the stream beyond compressed within the high, rocky -walls of a canyon. Here are numerous factories and a population of six -thousand. Eighteen miles beyond, the river, having resumed its -southern course, tumbles down the Taconic Falls at Waterville, a town -of seven thousand people and extensive cotton-mills, also having the -Colby College of the Baptist Church where General Benjamin F. Butler -was a student. Farther down the Kennebec are the ruins of Fort -Halifax, near the confluence with Sebasticook River, draining various -lakes to the northeastward. This was one of the chain of forts built -in the middle eighteenth century to defend the Puritan coast towns -from French and Indian raids, and large Indian settlements formerly -occupied the broad intervales in the neighborhood. Twenty miles below -Waterville is Augusta, the Maine capital, situate at the head of -navigation, the city being beautifully located upon the high hills and -their slopes bordering the river. Just above the town is the great -Kennebec dam, built at an expense of $300,000 to make an admirable -water-power, and rising fifteen feet above high water. Here are over -ten thousand people, among whom lived for many years James G. Blaine, -who died in 1893. There are large textile factories giving employment -to the inhabitants, and the chief building is the State House, of -white granite, fronted by a Doric colonnade, standing upon a high hill -and surmounted by a graceful dome. Across the Kennebec is the fine -granite Insane Hospital in extensive ornamental grounds, while down by -the bank are the remains of Fort Western, built as a defensive outpost -in 1754, being then surrounded by palisaded outworks garnished with -towers. It was here that Benedict Arnold gathered his expedition -against Quebec in 1775, going up the Kennebec, crossing the border -wilderness and enduring the greatest hardships, before he appeared -like an apparition with his army of gaunt heroes under the walls of -that fortress. - -Below Augusta is the quiet town of Hallowell, and then Gardiner, and -beyond, the Kennebec spreads out in the broad expanse of Merry Meeting -Bay, where it receives the Androscoggin coming up from the southwest. -Along here are seen to perfection the two great crops of these -rivers--the lumber and the ice. The largest icehouses in existence -line the banks, and the prolific ice-crop of these pure waters, thus -gathered by the millions of tons, is shipped by sea from Gardiner and -Bath throughout the coast and over to Europe. The people seem to saw -logs all summer and cut ice all winter. The river next passes Bath, -formerly a great ship-building port, and still doing much work in the -construction of steel vessels, though the population has rather -decreased of late years. The town, with its front of shipyards and -kindred industries, fringes the western river-bank for two or three -miles, and on either hand the rocky shores slope steeply down to the -water. A clergyman from Salem bought this domain in 1660 from -Damarine, the old sachem of Sagadahoc, whom the whites called Robin -Hood, but the place did not grow much until after the Revolution, when -extensive shipbuilding began. It is about thirteen miles from the -sea, the Kennebec entering the Atlantic through Sheepscott Bay, an -irregular indentation of the coast studded with many attractive -islands. At Bath, more than anywhere else in New England, has been -practically realized Longfellow's invocation: - - "Build me straight, O worthy master! - Staunch and strong, a goodly vessel, - That shall laugh at all disaster, - And with wave and whirlwind wrestle!" - - -ANCIENT PEMAQUID. - -Eastward from the Kennebec the long peninsula of Pemaquid Point -stretches to the sea, between John's Bay and Muscongus Bay, and far -out beyond it, off the western entrance to Penobscot Bay, is Monhegan, -the most famous island on the New England coast. It is twelve miles -off the Point, and the surface rises into highlands. Monhegan appears -upon the earliest charts made by the first navigators, Champlain -naming it in 1604 and Weymouth coming there the next year to trade -with the Indians of Pemaquid before he ascended the great river, which -he said was called Norumbega, and about which there was long so much -mystery and wonder in Europe. Smith was there in 1614, it was -colonized in 1618, in 1621 it sent succor to the starving Pilgrims at -Plymouth, and in 1626 two proprietors bought the island for £50. It -had a stirring colonial history, and on account of its location its -grand flashing beacon-light is a landmark for the mariners coasting -along Maine or entering the Penobscot. Yet it has barely a hundred -people to-day, mostly fishermen, though its isolation has manifest -advantages, for it is said to have no public officials, and to be the -one place where there are no taxes. In fair sight of each other, over -the blue sea, are the highlands of Monhegan and the rocks and coves of -Pemaquid Point, the great stronghold of early British colonial power -in Maine. Rival French and English grants covered the whole of Maine, -and at the outstart the English took possession of the Kennebec, and -the French of the Penobscot. The colonists were in almost constant -enmity, as also were the Indians upon the two rivers, the warfare -continuing a hundred and fifty years, until after the Revolution. The -English made Pemaquid Point their fortified outpost, while the French -established old Fort Pentagoet, afterwards Castine, as their -stronghold on the Penobscot. The earliest settlement at the mouth of -the Kennebec was made in 1607 by Chief Justice George Popham, who came -there with one hundred and twenty colonists in two ships, named the -"Mary and John" and the "Gift of God." They founded Fort St. George, -and built the first vessel on the Kennebec, the "Virginia" of thirty -tons, but Popham dying the next year, they became discouraged and -abandoned the colony. - -Pemaquid saw constant disturbances. Weymouth, when he traded there in -1605, kidnapped several Indians and carried them back to England. The -fierce Abenaquis from Penobscot Bay attacked the place in 1615 and -massacred all the Wawenock Indians who lived there. Then the old -Sagamore Samoset appeared upon the scene, the same who welcomed the -Pilgrims to Plymouth. He lived near Pemaquid, and told them at -Plymouth his home was distant "a daye's sayle with a great wind, and -five dayes by land." He sold Pemaquid to the first English colonists -in 1625 by deed, his sign manual upon it being a bended bow with an -arrow fitted to the string, ready to shoot. They saw the strategic -importance of the place and built a small fort in 1630. Then a pirate -came along, captured and plundered the settlement, holding it until an -armed ship from Massachusetts recaptured it in 1635, the pirate being -hanged. Then stronger forts were built, and Fort Charles was -constructed in 1674, but in King Philip's War the French and Indians -attacked it, driving out the people, who escaped by boats to Monhegan. -Again, in 1689, the Abenaquis from old Pentagoet, under their chief -Madockawando, captured it with great slaughter, destroying the works. -The English in 1693 once more took possession, this time building a -stone fort regarded as impregnable and said to be the finest work then -in New England. French frigates soon attacked it and were repulsed, -and its fame was great throughout the colonies. But the French and -the Abenaquis were bound to defeat its possessors, and in 1696 the -former with a fleet and the latter under Baron de Castine again -attacked, and captured it with a horrible massacre, all the survivors -being carried into captivity. The English did not reoccupy the Point -for some time, but in 1724 they repaired the ruined fort, and deciding -that a place of so much importance must be held at all hazards, in -1730 Fort Frederick, the great defensive work of Pemaquid, was built, -and a town grew around it. The French and Indians made unsuccessful -attacks in 1745, and again in 1747. Thus fiercely raged the battle -between the rival possessors of the Penobscot and the Kennebec, and -the ruins of this last and greatest work, Fort Frederick, have been -the place where for years the antiquarians have been delving for -relics, much as they do in Pompeii. It was an extensive exterior -fortress with an interior citadel, located upon a slope rising from a -rocky shore and controlling the approach from the sea. A high rock in -the southeastern angle, forming part of the magazine, is the most -prominent portion of the ruins. A martello tower stood in front on the -sea-beach, but is now pulverized into broken fragments. A graveyard, -several paved streets, and cellars of buildings have been disclosed. -The final destruction of Fort Frederick was by the Americans in the -Revolution, to prevent its becoming a British stronghold, and its last -battle was in 1814, when a force in boats from a British frigate -attacked the Point, but were repulsed with heavy loss. Its present -condition is thus described in the mournful ballad of _Pemaquid_: - - "The restless sea resounds along the shore, - The light land breeze flows outward with a sigh, - And each to each seems chanting evermore - A mournful memory of the days gone by. - - "Here, where they lived, all holy thoughts revive, - Of patient striving, and of faith held fast; - Here, where they died, their buried records live, - Silent they speak from out the shadowy past." - - -THE PENOBSCOT. - -The peninsula between the Kennebec and the Penobscot River is -traversed by a railway route through the forests of Lincoln and Knox -Counties, named after two famous Revolutionary Generals. It crosses -the Sheepscott and St. George Rivers and skirts the head of Muscongus -Bay, amid a goodly crop of rocks, passing Wiscasset, Damariscotta -(near the lake of that name, which got its title from the old Indian -chief, Damarine), Waldeboro' and Thomaston to Rockland, upon the -deeply indented Owl's Head Bay looking out upon the Penobscot. This -peninsula is serrated by more of the numerous bays and havens of which -Whittier sings: - - "From gray sea-fog, from icy drift, - From peril and from pain, - The homebound fisher greets thy lights, - O hundred-harbored Maine!" - -We have now come to the chief river of Maine, the Penobscot, draining -the larger portion of its enormous forests, and emptying into the -ocean through a vast estuary, which is the greatest of the many bays -upon this rugged coast. Three centuries ago this was the fabulous -river of Norumbega, enclosing unknown treasures and a mysterious city, -as weirdly described by the Spaniards and Portuguese, who were the -first visitors to the prolific fishing-grounds of America. At that -time Europe knew of no river that was its equal, and no bay with such -broad surface and enormous tidal flow. Hence many were the tales about -wonderful Norumbega. The Penobscot estuary, with its connecting -waters, embraces an archipelago said to contain five hundred islands, -making a large portion of the Maine coast, which in many respects is -the most remarkable in the country. It is jagged and uneven, seamed -with deep inlets and guarded by craggy headlands, projecting far out -into the ocean, while between are myriads of rocky and in many cases -romantic islands. This coast is composed almost wholly of granites, -syenites and other metamorphic rocks that have been deeply scraped and -grooved ages ago by the huge glacier which, descending from Greenland -and extending far into the sea, was of such vast thickness and -ponderous weight as to plough out these immense valleys and ravines in -the granite floor. The chief of these ridges and furrows lie almost -north and south, so that the Maine shore-line is a series of long, -rocky peninsulas separated by deep and elongated bays, having within -and beyond them myriads of long islands and sunken ledges, with the -same general southern trend as the mainland. Large rocks and boulders -are also strewn over the land and upon the bottom of the sea, where -they have been left by the receding glacier. These fragments are piled -in enormous quantities in various places, many of the well-known -fishing-banks, such as George's Shoals, being glacial deposits. These -rocks and sunken ledges are covered with marine animals, making the -favorite food of many of the most important food-fishes. The Penobscot -from its source to the sea flows about three hundred miles. The wide -bay and wedge-shape of the lower river, by gathering so large a flow -of tidal waters, which are suddenly compressed at the Narrows just -below Bucksport, make a rapidly-rushing tide, and an ebb and flow -rising seventeen feet at Bangor, sixteen miles above. When Weymouth -came in 1605 he set up a cross near where Belfast now stands, on the -western shore of the bay, and took possession for England, and he -marvelled greatly at what he saw, writing home that "many who had been -travellers in sundry countries and in most famous rivers affirmed them -not comparable to this--the most beautiful, rich, large, secure -harboring river that the world affordeth." The Indians whom he found -on its shores were the Tarratines, an Abenaquis tribe, who inhabited -all that part of Maine. The Jesuit missionaries early came among them -from Canada, and they were firm friends of the French. They called the -great river Pentagoet, or "the stream where there are rapids," while -its shores were the Penobscot, meaning "where the land is covered with -rocks." - - -PENTAGOET AND CASTINE. - -Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, as a reward for his faithfulness, was -given, in 1602, by the French King Henry of Navarre, a grant of all -America from the 40th to the 46th parallels of latitude. He came out -and founded a colony on Passamaquoddy Bay, and finding that the -Indians called the region Acadie, or the "land of plenty," he named -his domain Acadia. The French afterwards extended their explorations -westward along the Maine coast, claiming under this grant, and this -was the source of the many subsequent conflicts. Coming into Penobscot -Bay, they made their outpost and stronghold upon the peninsula of -Pentagoet on its eastern shore, marking the western limit of Acadia. -Their famous old Fort Pentagoet, from which the French and Indian -raiders for more than a century swooped down upon the English border -settlements, is now the pleasant summer resort of Castine. Originally, -the English from Plymouth established a trading-post there, but the -French captured it, and then in the French religious conflicts it was -alternately held by the Catholic and Huguenot chieftains sent out to -rule Acadia. Sometimes pirates took it, and once some bold Dutchmen -came up from New York and were its captors. But the French held it for -a full century, though repeatedly attacked, until just before the -Revolution, when the English conquered and held it throughout that -war, again seizing it in the War of 1812. This noted old fort was -captured and scarred in wars resulting in no less than five different -national occupations. The present name is derived from Baron Castine, -who came with his French regiment to Acadia, and gave Pentagoet its -great romance. He was Vincent, Baron de St. Castine, lord of Oléron in -the French Pyrenees, who arrived in 1667, and inspired by a chivalrous -desire to extend the Catholic religion among the Indians, went into -the wilderness to live among the fierce Tarratines. As Longfellow -tells it in the Student's Tale at _The Wayside Inn_: - - "Baron Castine of St. Castine - Has left his château in the Pyrenees - And sailed across the Western seas." - -Pentagoet then was a populous town ruled by the Sachem Madockawando, -and the young Baron, tarrying there, soon found friends among the -Indians. The sachem had a susceptible daughter, and this dusky belle, -captivated by the courtly graces of the handsome Baron, fell in love: - - "For man is fire, and woman is tow, - And the Somebody comes and begins to blow." - -The usual results followed, so that it was not long before-- - - "Lo! the young Baron of St. Castine, - Swift as the wind is, and as wild, - Has married a dusky Tarratine, - Has married Madocawando's child!" - -This marriage made him one of the tribe, and he soon became their -leader. The restless and warlike Indians almost worshipped the -chivalrous young Frenchman; he was their apostle, and led them in -repeated raids against their English and Indian foes. But ultimately -tiring of this roving life in the forests, he returned to "his château -in the Pyrenees," taking his Indian bride along. They were welcomed -with surprise and admiration: - - "Down in the village day by day - The people gossip in their way, - And stare to see the Baroness pass - On Sunday morning to early mass; - And when she kneeleth down to pray, - They wonder, and whisper together, and say, - 'Surely this is no heathen lass!' - And in course of time they learn to bless - The Baron and the Baroness. - - "And in course of time the curate learns - A secret so dreadful, that by turns - He is ice and fire, he freezes and burns. - The Baron at confession hath said, - That though this woman be his wife, - He hath wed her as the Indians wed, - He hath bought her for a gun and a knife!" - -Then there was trouble, but it seems to have been soon cured by a -Christian wedding: - - "The choir is singing the matin song, - The doors of the church are opened wide, - The people crowd, and press and throng, - To see the bridegroom and the bride. - They enter and pass along the nave; - They stand upon the father's grave; - The bells are ringing soft and slow; - The living above and the dead below - Give their blessing on one and twain; - The warm wind blows from the hills of Spain, - The birds are building, the leaves are green, - And Baron Castine of St. Castine - Hath come at last to his own again." - -In course of time the son of the Baron by his Tarratine princess -became chief of the tribe and ruled it until in a raid in 1721 he was -captured by the English and taken to Boston. When brought before the -Council there for trial he wore his French uniform, and was accused of -attending an Abenaqui council-fire. He sturdily replied, "I am an -Abenaqui by my mother; all my life has been passed among the nation -that has made me chief and commander over it. I could not be absent -from a council where the interests of my brethren were to be -discussed. The dress I now wear is one becoming my rank and birth as -an officer of the Most Christian King of France, my master." After -being held prisoner several months, he was released, and finally also -returned to the ancestral château in the Pyrenees. His lineal -descendants are still at the head of the tribe, which has dwindled to -almost nothing. Pentagoet honoring the memory, afterwards became -Castine. Remains of the old fort and batteries are preserved, and a -miniature earthwork commands the harbor. The Tarratines and all the -Abenaqui tribes were firm friends of the Americans in the Revolution; -there are remnants of them in Canada, but the best preserved is the -Indian settlement on Indian Island, in the Penobscot River, above -Bangor. For fealty in the Revolution they were given a reservation, -where a few hundred descendants now live in a village around their -church, having a town hall and schools, with books printed in their -own Abenaqui language, and ruled by their tribal officials. This last -remnant of a warlike nation with such an interesting history gets a -modest subsistence by catching fish and lobsters, and rafting logs on -their great river of Norumbega. - - -ASCENDING THE PENOBSCOT. - -The Penobscot drains an immense territory covered with pine, spruce -and hemlock forests. Two hundred millions of feet of lumber will be -floated down it in a single season. Its bold western bay shore rises -into the Camden Mountains, and both sides of the bay were embraced -for thirty miles in the Muscongus Patent, a grant of King George I. -which came to the colonial Governor Samuel Waldo, of Massachusetts, -and afterwards, by descent through his wife, to General Henry Knox. -Thus Knox became the Patroon of Penobscot Bay, building a palace at -Thomaston, where he lived in baronial state and spent so much money in -princely hospitality that he bankrupted himself and almost ruined his -Revolutionary compatriot, General Lincoln, who became involved with -him. On this western shore, Rockland, with nine thousand people, is a -town of sea-captains, fishermen and lime-burners, its rocks making the -best lime of the district, and a hundred kilns illuminating the hills -at night. Adjacent are Dix Island, and to the southward Vinalhaven -Island, producing fine granites shipped abroad for building. To the -northward is Camden, under the shadow of Mount Megunticook, its two -peaks rising fourteen hundred feet above the harbor. Out in front is -an archipelago of pretty islands, the chief being "the insular town of -Islesboro," stretching about thirteen miles along the centre of -Penobscot Bay, its ten square miles of irregular contour having of -late developed into a region of cottages built in all the pleasant -places and making a very popular resort. To the northeastward the -massive Blue Hill stands up an isolated guardian behind the peninsula -of Castine, where the attractive white houses are spread over the -broad and sloping point enclosing its deep harbor, and its -church-spire rises sharply among the trees. In the eastern archipelago -of Penobscot Bay are the Fox Island group of about one hundred and -fifty islands, and the larger islands of North Haven and Vinalhaven -are to the southward, beyond which are the shores of Cape Rosier, -making the eastern border of the bay, while through a vista looms up -the distant Isle au Haut, an outer guardian upon the ocean's edge. At -the eastern horizon behind the cape rise the hazy, bisected, -round-topped peaks of Mount Desert, thirty miles away. - -Belfast is another maritime town of Penobscot Bay on a deeply-indented -harbor under the shadow of the Camden Hills, the place where Weymouth -in 1605 landed and set up the cross. It was settled and named by -Scotch-Irish Presbyterians in 1770, and it looks out pleasantly across -the broad bay upon Castine. Above are Searsport and Fort Point, with -the ruins of the colonial Fort Pownall, and then the river is quickly -contracted into the Narrows, where the swift tides run at Bucksport. -The upper river is sinuous and picturesque, and at the head of -navigation, sixty miles from the sea, is Bangor, with twenty thousand -people, finely located on commanding hills, its chief industry being -the sawing and shipment of lumber. The sawmills line the shores and -the log-booms extend for miles along the river. The chief assembly -room of the city is the Norumbega Hall, and there also is a -Theological Seminary of high standing. It is said that the settlement, -which had languished during the Revolution, in 1791 ordered Rev. Seth -Noble, its representative in the Legislature, to have it incorporated -under the name of Sunbury, but he, being very fond of the old tune of -Bangor, wrote that name inadvertently, and it thus was given the town. -Thirteen miles northward is Oldtown, another great gathering-place for -logs and sawmills, and having the Tarratine Indian settlement on the -island in mid-stream. The Penobscot River receives various tributaries -above, which drain the extensive northern forests of Maine--the -Piscataquis coming from the westward, the Mattawamkeag from the -northeast, and the Seboois. The main stream rises near the western -Canada border of Maine and flows eastward into Chesuncook Lake, whence -its general course to the sea is southeast and south. The river thus -drains a broad basin, embracing myriads of lakes in the northern Maine -forests, and it has an enormous water-power, as yet only partially -utilized. - - -MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. - -Beyond the archipelago, eastward from the Penobscot estuary, is the -noted island, presenting the only land along the Atlantic coast where -high mountains are in close proximity to the sea. It appears to-day -just at it did to Champlain when he first saw it in September, 1604, -and, being impressed with its craggy, desolate summits, named it the -_Isle des Monts déserts_, the "Island of Desert Mountains." He then -wrote of it, "The land is very high, intersected by passes, appearing -from the sea like seven or eight mountains ranged near each other; the -summits of the greater part of these are bare of trees, because they -are nothing but rocks." In approaching from the southwestward by sea, -the distant gray recumbent elephant that has been lying at the horizon -gradually resolves its two rounded summits into different peaks; but -the finer approach is rather from the northward by the railway route, -which is the one most travelled. The quick advance of the train -unfolds the separate mountain peaks, and the whole range is well -displayed, there being apparently eight eminences, but upon coming -nearer, others seem to detach themselves. Green Mountain is the -highest, rising over fifteen hundred feet, near the eastern side, -while Western Mountain terminates the range on the other side, and at -the eastern verge is Newport Mountain, having the fashionable -settlement of Bar Harbor at its northern base. There are several -beautiful lakes high up among these peaks, the chief being Eagle Lake. -Beech and Dog Mountains have peculiarities of outline, and a wider -opening between two ponderous peaks shows where the sea has driven-in -the strange and deeply carved inlet of Somes' Sound, six miles from -the southern side, to almost bisect the island. Hung closely upon the -coast of Maine, in Frenchman Bay, this noted island, the ancient -Indian Pemetic, is about fifteen miles long, of varying width, and -covers a hundred square miles. It has many picturesque features, its -mountains, which run in roughly parallel ridges north and south, -separated by narrow trough-like valleys, displaying thirteen distinct -eminences, the eastern summits being the highest, and terminating -generally at or near the water's edge on that side in precipitous -cliffs, with the waves dashing against their bases. Upon the -southeastern coast, fronting the ocean, as a fitting termination to -the grand scenery of these mountain-ranges, the border of the Atlantic -is a galaxy of stupendous cliffs, the two most remarkable being of -national fame--Schooner Head and Great Head--the full force of old -ocean driving against their massive rocky buttresses. Schooner Head -has a surface of white rock on its face, which when seen from the sea -is fancied to resemble the sails of a small vessel, apparently moving -in front of the giant cliff. Great Head, two miles southward, is an -abrupt projecting mass of rock, the grim and bold escarpment having -deep gashes across the base, evidently worn by the waves. It is the -highest headland on the island. Castle Head is a perpendicular -columned mass, appearing like a colossal, castellated doorway, flanked -by square towers. - - [Illustration: _Along the Coast at Bar Harbor, Me._] - -For more than a century after Champlain first looked upon this island, -the French made ineffectual attempts at settlement, but it was -not until 1761 that any one succeeded in establishing a permanent -home. Then old Abraham Somes, a hardy mariner from Cape Ann, came -along, and entering the Sound that bears his name, settled on the -shore, and his descendant is said to still keep the inn at Somesville -on the very spot of his earliest colonization. After the little colony -was planted, the cultivation of the cranberry and the gathering of -blueberries kept the people alive, these being almost the only -food-products raised in the moderate allowance of soil allotted the -island. The population grew but slowly, though artists and summer -saunterers came this way, and about 1860 it began to attract the -pleasure-seekers. When the island, in its early government, was -divided into towns, the eastern portion was called, with a little -irony, Eden. Bar Harbor, an indentation of Frenchman Bay, having a bar -uncovered at low tide, which named it, being easy of access, the -village of East Eden on its shores became the fashionable resort. It -has a charming outlook over the bay, with its fleets of gaily-bannered -yachts and canoes and the enclosing Porcupine Islands, but there is -not much natural attractiveness. It is a town of summer hotels and -boarding-houses, built upon what was a treeless plain, the outskirts -being a galaxy of cottages, many of great pretensions. Here will -congregate ten to twenty thousand visitors in the season, and Bar -Harbor has become one of the most fashionable resorts on the Atlantic -coast. Its bane, however, is the fog, a frequent sojourner in the -summer, though even fogs, in their way, have charms. There are days -that it lies in banks upon the sea, with only occasional incursions -upon the shore, when under a shining sun the mist creeps over the -water and finally blots out the landscape. But light breezes and warm -sunshine then soon disperse it and the view reappears. The fog-rifts -are wonderful picture-makers. Sometimes the mist obscures the sea and -lower shores of the attendant islands, leaving a narrow fringe of -tree-tops resting against the horizon, as if suspended in mid-air. -Often a yacht sails through the fog, looking like a colossal ghost, -when suddenly its sails flash out in the sunlight like huge wings. -Thus the mist paints dissolving views, so that the fogs of Mount -Desert become an attraction, and occasionally through them appears the -famed mirage which Whittier describes: - - "Sometimes in calms of closing day - They watched the spectral mirage play; - Saw low, far islands looming tall and high, - And ships, with upturned keels, sail like a sea the sky." - -Somes Sound has off its entrance on the southern side of Mount Desert, -the group of Cranberry Islands with a lighthouse on Baker's Island, -the outermost of the cluster. These make a picturesque outlook for the -summer settlements which have grown around the spacious indentations -of North East Harbor and South West Harbor, on either side of the -entrance to the Sound. To the eastward is another indentation in the -southern coast, Seal Harbor, also a popular resort, having one of the -finest beaches on the island. The five high rocky Porcupine Islands -partially enclosing Bar Harbor get their names from their bristling -crests of pines and spruces, one of them, the Bald Porcupine, having -some stupendous cliffs. The visits to the cliffs along the shores and -the ascent of the mountains are the chief excursions from Bar Harbor. -Four miles southward is the summit of Green Mountain, its sides being -rugged, and the charming Eagle Lake to the westward nestling among the -mountain peaks. The view from the top is fine, over the deeply-cut -Somes Sound, penetrating almost through the island, and the grand -expanse of Maine coast, seen, with its many bays and islands, -stretching from the Penobscot northeast to Quoddy Head. All around to -the southward and eastward spreads the open ocean bounded by the -horizon, and like a speck, to the south-southeast, twenty miles away, -is the lighthouse upon the bleak crag known as Mount Desert Rock, far -out at sea, the most remote beacon, in its distant isolation, upon the -New England coast. - - -ENTERING THE MARITIME PROVINCES. - -The Maine coast beyond Mount Desert has more deep harbors and long -peninsulas. Here are Englishman's Bay, Machias Bay, Cutler Harbor and -others, and finally Passamaquoddy Bay, opening into the Bay of Fundy. -Grand Manan Island lies off this Bay, the first land of the British -Maritime Provinces, twenty-two miles long and distant about nine miles -from the coast of Maine, the frowning yet attractive precipices of its -western verge rising four hundred feet. Over opposite in Maine, as the -strait between the two narrows, are dark, storm-worn crags, which end -with a promontory bearing a conspicuously red and white-striped -lighthouse tower. This is the termination of the coast of Maine and of -the United States at Quoddy Head, and the entrance to St. Croix River -to the northward, the boundary between New England and the Canadian -Province of New Brunswick. Quoddy Head is a long peninsula, with -Campobello Island directly in front. Just beyond is another peninsula, -bearing a village of white cottages, rising on the slopes of a high -rounded hill having a church with a tall spire perched upon its -pinnacle. This is Lubec, the easternmost town of the United States. -Out in front upon Campobello lived for many years the eccentric old -sailor, William Fitzwilliam Owen, a retired British Admiral, who built -there on the rocks a regulation "quarter-deck" of a man-of-war, -whereon he solemnly promenaded in full uniform and issued orders to a -mythical crew. Finally he died, and as he had desired, was buried by -candlelight in the churchyard of the little chapel he had built on -the island. Campobello is now a summer resort, with numerous hotels -and cottages. All these waters are filled with wicker-work fish-weirs, -wherein are caught the herring supplying the Eastport sardine-packing -establishments. This is another town of white houses on an island -adjoining the mainland, having a little fort and a prominent display -of the sardine-factories in front, with a background of fir-clad hills -in Maine. - -St. Croix River falling into Passamaquoddy Bay is, for its whole -length of one hundred and twenty-five miles, the national boundary. -Upon Neutral Island near its mouth was made the first unfortunate -settlement of Acadie by the Sieur De Monts in 1604. He named both the -island and river St. Croix because, just above, various bends of the -river and its branches form a cross. The St. Croix discharges the -noted Schoodic Lakes far up in the forest on the boundary, which have -become a favorite resort of sportsmen and anglers. It brings down many -logs, and the sawmills have made the prosperity of the twin towns of -Calais and St. Stephen on its banks, which represent the two nations, -and being very friendly, are connected by a bridge. Upon a peninsula -near the mouth of the river is St. Andrews, in New Brunswick, which -like most other places in this pleasant region is developing into a -summer resort. When De Monts came and landed, he named the country -Acadie because that was what the Indians called it. The Indians, -however, in pronouncing it made the sound like "a-quoddy," and from -this is derived Passamaquoddy, the name of the bay into which the St. -Croix flows, the word _Pesmo-acadie_ meaning the "pollock place of -plenty," as these fish were prolific there. It is at North Perry in -Maine, a village on the western verge of the bay and between Eastport -and Calais, that the Government has erected the obelisk marking the -forty-fifth parallel of north latitude, midway between the equator and -the pole. - -The Canadian Province of New Brunswick into which we have now come in -the journey "Down East" is described as "a region of ships, of pine -trees, salmon, deals, hemlock bark and most excellent red granite." -The first impression upon entering it is made by the highways, where -the change from the United States to the British methods is shown in -the reversal of the usual "rule of the road," from right to left. The -vehicles all "keep to the left," and hence the appropriate proverb: - - "The rule of the road is a parodox quite, - In driving your carriage along, - If you keep to the left you are sure to go right, - If you keep to the right you go wrong." - -We have also got into the region of the Bay of Fundy, the Portuguese -_Bayo Fondo_, or "deep bay," with its high tides. This huge inlet of -the Atlantic is about one hundred and seventy miles long, thrust up -between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, stretching from thirty to -fifty miles wide between them. Its eastern extremity branches into two -arms, the northern, Chignecto Bay, about thirty miles long, and the -southern, Minas Channel, opening into the Minas Basin. Besides the St. -Croix, this bay also receives St. John River, the greatest in the -Maritime Provinces. The bay is remarkable for its tides, which are -probably the highest in the world, owing to the concentration of the -tidal wave by the approach of the shores and the gradual shoaling of -the bottom. The very moderate tides of the Massachusetts coast -increase to about nine feet rise at the mouth of the Kennebec. The -configuration of the Maine coast to the northeast further increases -this to fifteen or twenty feet rise at Eastport. Beyond this the Bay -of Fundy is a complete _cul-de-sac_, and the farther the tide gets in -the higher it rises. In St. John harbor it becomes twenty-one to -twenty-three feet, and farther up it is greater, in Minas Basin the -rise reaching forty feet, and in Chignecto Bay, near the upper -extremity, sixty feet. These tremendous tides cause peculiar -phenomena; they make the rivers seem to actually run up-hill at times, -while the tidal "bore" or wall of water, which is the advance of the -flood, moves up the streams and across the extensive mudflats with the -speed of a railway train, often catching the unsuspecting who may be -wandering over them. The elaborate wharves made for boat-landings are -built up like three-story houses, with different floor-levels, so as -to enable the vessels to get alongside at all stages of the tide. - - -THE CITY OF ST. JOHN. - -Upon St. John's Day, June 24, 1604, De Monts piloted by Champlain, -coasting along the monotonous forest-clad shores of New Brunswick, -sailed into the mouth of the River St. John, and named it in memory of -the day of its discovery. Off the entrance is Partridge Island, now -surmounted by a lighthouse and what is said to be the most powerful -fog-siren in the world, whose hoarse blasts can be heard thirty miles -away, a necessity in this region, where fogs prevail so generally. -From the Negro Head, a high hill on the western shore, a breakwater -extends across the harbor entrance, and within is the city covering -the hills running down to the water as the inner harbor curves toward -the westward. Timber being the great export, lumber-piles and -timber-ships fill the wharves, sawdust floats on the water, and -vessels are anchored out in the stream loading deals from lighters. - -De Monts found some Micmac Indians at St. John, but he did not remain -there, and it was not until 1634 when Claude de St. Estienne, Sieur de -la Tour, a Huguenot who had been granted Acadie by King Charles I. of -England, came out with his son and built a fort at the mouth of St. -John River, the son Charles de la Tour for some years afterwards -holding it and enjoying a lucrative trade. The French King, however, -had made a rival grant of Acadie, which had come into possession of -Charles de Menon, Sieur d'Aulnay Charnisay, who made a settlement at -Annapolis Royal over in Nova Scotia, where De Monts took the remnant -of his unfortunate colony from St. Croix River. D'Aulnay envied La -Tour his prosperity, provoked a quarrel, accused him of treason, and -finally came over and blockaded the mouth of the St. John with six -ships. La Tour, anticipating this attack, had implored aid from the -Huguenots in France, and they sent out the ship "Clement" with one -hundred and forty men, which remained in the offing. One cloudy night -La Tour and his wife slipped out of the harbor on the ebb tide in a -boat and got aboard the ship, which carried them to Boston, where -additional help was sought. Old Cotton Mather records that the -Puritans hearkened unto him and searched the Scriptures to see if -there was Divine sanction for interference in a French quarrel. They -found sundry texts that were interpreted as possibly forbidding such -action, but they nevertheless concluded "it was as lawful for them to -give La Tour succor as it was for Joshua to aid the Gideonites against -the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid Jehoram against -Moab." So they quickly started five Massachusetts ships that way, with -which La Tour raised the blockade and drove D'Aulnay across the Bay -of Fundy back to his own post of Annapolis Royal. D'Aulnay did not -rest content under defeat, however, but two years later again attacked -the fort. Two spies, who had gained entrance in the disguise of monks, -informed him La Tour was absent, the fort being under command of his -wife. Expecting easy victory, he ordered an assault, but was met by -Madame La Tour at the head of the little garrison and defeated with -heavy loss. He awaited another opportunity, and in 1647 when La Tour -was away on a trading expedition, leaving but a small force, he again -attacked. During three days his assaults were repulsed, but a -treacherous sentry admitted the enemy within the fort. Even then the -brave woman fought with such intrepidity that she was given her own -terms of capitulation. No sooner had she surrendered, however, than -D'Aulnay violated his agreement and hanged the garrison, compelling -Madame La Tour to witness it with a halter around her neck. This so -preyed upon her mind that a few days afterwards she died of a broken -heart. Whittier has woven this story into his romantic poem _St. -John_, describing La Tour returning to the fort and expecting his -wife's greeting, but instead he found its walls shattered and the -buildings burnt. A priest appearing, La Tour seizes him, demanding an -explanation, and thus spoke the priest: - - "'No wolf, Lord of Estienne, has ravaged thy hall, - But thy red-handed rival, with fire, steel and ball! - On an errand of mercy, I hitherward came, - While the walls of thy castle yet spouted with flame. - - "'Pentagoet's dark vessels were moored in the bay, - Grim sea-lions roaring aloud for their prey.' - 'But what of my lady?' cried Charles of Estienne: - 'On the shot-crumbled turret, thy lady was seen: - - "'Half-veiled in the smoke-cloud, her hand grasped thy pennon, - While her dark tresses swayed in the hot breath of cannon! - But woe to the heretic, evermore woe! - When the son of the Church and the Cross is his foe! - - "'In the track of the shell, in the path of the ball, - Pentagoet swept over the breach of the wall! - Steel to steel, gun to gun, one moment--and then - Alone stood the victor, alone with his men! - - "'Of its sturdy defenders, thy lady alone - Saw the cross-blazoned banner float over St. John.' - 'Let the dastard look to it,' cried fiery Estienne, - 'Were D'Aulnay King Louis, I'd free her again.' - - "'Alas for thy lady! No service from thee - Is needed by her whom the Lord hath set free: - Nine days in stern silence her thraldom she bore, - But the tenth morning came, and Death opened her door!'" - -La Tour returned, but hardly in the manner justifying the revenge -indicated in the poem. D'Aulnay died shortly afterwards, whereupon La -Tour recaptured his fort and domain in 1653, but not at the head of an -army, diplomatically accomplishing his victory by marrying D'Aulnay's -widow. This post was known as Fort La Tour until the British conquest -in the eighteenth century, when it was changed to Fort Frederick. It -then became a fishing station, and was plundered in the Revolution. -Afterwards, in 1783, about ten thousand exiled tories from the United -States were landed there, this being the "Landing of the Loyalists" -commemorated on May 18th as the founding of St. John, the charter -dating from that day in 1785. Benedict Arnold was one of these -refugees, he living in St. John for several years from 1786. A -Monument in King Square commemorates the landing of the loyalists and -the grant of the charter. Being built largely of wood, the city -suffered from many disastrous fires, the worst being in June, 1877, -when one-third of the place was burnt, involving a loss of over -sixteen hundred buildings and nearly $30,000,000. St. John rose from -the ruins with great vitality, the new construction being largely of -brick and stone. The population now exceeds forty thousand. - - -THE RIVER ST. JOHN. - -The great curiosity of St. John is the "reversible cataract" in the -river, caused in the gorge just west of the city by the enormous tides -of the Bay of Fundy. The great river above the city is a wide estuary, -but before entering the harbor it is compressed into a short, deep and -narrow gorge, barely one hundred and fifty yards wide in some places, -and obstructed by several rocky islets. As this is the best -crossing-place, two bridges are thrown side by side over the chasm, -one for a railway and the other for a street, resting upon the -limestone cliffs a hundred feet above the water. As the tide ebbs and -flows, the rushing river currents make the reversible cataract, almost -under the bridges, with the water pouring down both ways at different -tidal stages. Through this contracted pass the entire current of the -vast St. John valley finds its outlet to the sea. When the ebb tide -quickly empties the harbor below, the accumulated river waters cannot -get into the gorge fast enough to reduce as rapidly the level of the -broad basin above, and they consequently rush down, a cataract, -swelling sometimes to ten or twelve feet at the upper entrance to the -gorge, and make whirling, seething rapids below. When the tide turns, -this outflow is gradually checked by the rise in the harbor, but soon -the tremendous incoming flood from the Bay of Fundy overpowers the -river current, fills up the gorge, and rapidly rising in the gorge -rushes inward to the broad basin, thus making the cataract fall the -other way. Twice every day this ever-changing contest is fought, and -were it not for the obstruction made by this narrow, rocky gateway, -these enormous tides would rush along in full force and overflow a -large surface of the very low-lying interior of New Brunswick. The -river makes a sharp bend just at the outlet of the gorge, turning from -south to northeast around a rocky cape protruding far into the stream; -then it broadens out into a rounded bay, and a short distance beyond -sharply bends again into the harbor of St. John. Vessels are taken -through the gorge at proper tidal stages, guided by tugs and floating -at high speed with the rushing current. This is one of the most -remarkable exhibitions made of the curious influence of these enormous -Bay of Fundy tides. - -The River St. John, flowing out of the vast forests of Maine, -stretches four hundred and fifty miles from its sources to the sea. -The Micmac Indians of its upper reaches called it Ouangondie, while -the Etechemins of the lower waters and the St. Croix valley named it -Looshtook, or the "Long River." Its sources interlock in the Maine -forests, at two thousand feet elevation, with those of the Penobscot -flowing south and the Chaudiere flowing north to the St. Lawrence, -near Quebec. At first the St. John flows northwest, then east and -southeast to its Grand Falls, then by a winding southern course to the -Bay of Fundy. For a long distance its upper waters are the national -boundary between Maine and Canada. It receives several large -tributaries and drains a valley embracing seventeen millions of acres. -The immense forest wilderness of Maine, wherein are the sources of -these streams, is seven times the size of the famous "Black Forest" of -Germany. Upon the upper St. John waters are various villages of French -Acadians, the descendants of those who were driven out of Nova Scotia -in the eighteenth century. It receives the Allegash, St. Francis, -Madawaska, Grand and St. Leonard's Rivers, and thus comes to its -cataract with augmented waters--the Grand Falls. Above, the stream -expands into a broad basin, flowing from which its enormous current is -compressed into a narrow rock-bound canyon, and after running down a -moderate incline suddenly plunges over the front and sides of an -abyss. This is about sixty feet deep and formed of slate, the water -falling into the cauldron below, and also over the outer ledges in -minor cascades. Then, with lightning rapidity the foaming current -dashes through another canyon of two hundred and fifty feet width for -three-fourths of a mile, the walls, of dark, rugged rock, being one -hundred and fifty feet high. Within this terrific chasm there is a -descent of sixty feet more, in which the waters do not rush along as -in the rapids below Niagara, but are actually belched and volleyed -forth, as if shot out of ten thousand great guns, with enormous -boiling masses hurled into the air and huge waves leaping high against -the enclosing cliffs. This ungovernable fury continues throughout most -of the passage, the stream at times heaping itself all on one side, -and giving brief glimpses of the rocky bed of the chasm. Finally an -immense frothy cataract flows over into a lower basin, said to be -unfathomable, where the stream becomes tranquil and then goes along -peacefully between its farther banks. Majestic scenery surrounds -these Grand Falls, there being high mountains in all directions. - -Like all great cataracts, this one has its romance and tragedy. -Alongside the final unfathomable basin rises a towering precipice two -hundred feet high, its perpendicular wall as smooth as glass. Down it -the ancient Micmacs hurled their captives taken in war. The implacable -foes of these Micmacs, as of all the tribes allied to the French, were -the New York Iroquois, and particularly the Mohawks. Once a party of -Mohawks penetrated all the way to this remote region, surprising and -capturing a Micmac village with a fearful massacre. One young squaw, -who promised obedience, they spared, because they wanted her to guide -them down the river. She was put in the foremost canoe, and the -fatigued Mohawks lashed their canoes together to float with the -current in the night, and then went to sleep. The girl was to guide -them to a safe landing above the cataract, so they could land and next -day go around the portage. She steered them into the mid-stream -current instead, and dropping quietly overboard swam ashore. They -floated to the brink of the cataract, and when its thunders awoke -them, too late for safety, the whole party were swept over and -perished. This was the last Mohawk invasion of the region. Twenty -miles below, the Tobique River comes into the St. John, and is -regarded as the most picturesque stream in New Brunswick, being noted -for its lumber camps and good angling. Here is Andover, a little -village supplying the lumbermen, and also Florenceville and Woodstock, -with busy sawmills. For miles the river shores are lofty and bold, -affording charming scenery. The Meduxnekeag flows in from the Maine -forests, bringing down many logs, and below the Meduntic Rapids are -passed. Then the Pokiok, its Indian name meaning the "dreadful place," -flows to the St. John through a sombre and magnificent gorge four -hundred yards long, very deep and only twenty-five feet wide. The -little river, after plunging down a cataract of forty feet, rushes -over the successive ledges of this remarkable pass until it reaches -the St. John. For a long distance the great river passes villages -originally settled by disbanded British troops after the Revolution -and now peopled by their descendants, and then it winds through the -pastoral district of Aukpaque, which was held by Americans within New -Brunswick for two years after the Revolution began, they finally -retreating in 1777 over the border into the wilderness of Maine, and -reaching the coast at Machias. Seven miles below is Frederickton, the -New Brunswick capital, a small city, quiet and restful, with broad -streets lined by old shade trees, and covering a good deal of level -land adjoining the river. It has a fine Parliament House, a small but -attractive Cathedral, with a spire one hundred and eighty feet high, -and on the hills back of the town is the University of New Brunswick. -The Nashwaak River flows in opposite among sawmills and cotton-mills, -and there was the old French Fort Nashwaak where the Chevalier de -Villebon, who was sent in 1690 to govern Acadie, fixed his capital -(removing it from Annapolis Royal), and used to fit out expeditions -against the Puritans in New England, they attacking him once in -retaliation, but being beaten off. The St. John passes through a -pleasant intervale below, the garden-spot of the Province, where at -Maugerville was the earliest English settlement on the river, -colonized from New England in 1763, after the French surrender of -Canada. Then the St. John receives Jemseg River, the outlet of Grand -Lake, where a French fort was built as early as 1640 and was fought -about for more than a century. This is a deep, slow-winding stream in -a region of perfect repose, having opposite its outlet Gagetown, a -pretty place with a few hundred people, and said to be the most -slumbrous village of all this sleepy region: - - "Oh, so drowsy! in a daze, - Sleeping mid the golden haze; - With its one white row of street - Carpeted so green and sweet, - And the loungers smoking, still, - Over gate and window sill; - Nothing coming, nothing going, - Locusts grating, one cock crowing, - Few things moving up or down; - All things drowsy--Drowsytown!" - -The St. John below is much like a broad and placid lake flowing -through a pastoral country, having long tributary lakes and bays, -including the extensive and attractive Kennebecasis, which is the -favorite rural resort of the St. John people and the scene of their -aquatic sports. The river farther down broadens into Grand Bay, and -then passing the narrow gorge of the "reversible cataract," makes the -expansive harbor of St. John, and is ultimately swallowed up by the -Bay of Fundy. - - -ANNAPOLIS AND MINAS BASINS. - -From St. John River across the Bay of Fundy to Digby Gut in Nova -Scotia is forty-five miles. For one hundred and thirty miles, the -North Mountain Ridge, elevated six hundred feet, stretches along the -bay upon the Nova Scotia shore, sharply notched down at Digby Gut, the -entrance to Annapolis Basin. This strait, barely a half-mile wide, is -cut two miles through the mountain ridge, having a tidal current of -six miles an hour, and within is a magnificent salt-water lake, -surrounded by forests sloping up the hillsides, and one of the -pleasantest sheets of water in the world. It is no wonder that De -Monts, when his colonists abandoned the dreary island in St. Croix -River, sought refuge here, and that his companion, Baron de -Poutrincourt, obtained a grant for the region. It is one of the most -attractive parts of Acadia, and as the old song has it: - - "This is Acadia--this the land - That weary souls have sighed for; - This is Acadia--this the land - Heroic hearts have died for." - -Digby is within the Gut, fronted by a long and tall wooden wharf that -has to deal with fifty feet of tide, its end being an enormous square -timber crib, built up like a four-story house. The town is noted for -luscious cherries and for "Digby Chickens," the most prized brand of -herrings cured by the "Blue-noses," and it has also developed into -quite an attractive watering-place. To the southwestward a railway -runs to Yarmouth, at the western extremity of Nova Scotia, a small but -very busy port, having steamer lines in various directions. To the -northeastward Annapolis Basin stretches sixteen miles between the -enclosing hills, gradually narrowing towards the extremity. Here, on -the lowlands adjoining Annapolis River, is the quaint little town of -Annapolis Royal and the extensive ramparts of the ancient fort that -guarded it, covering some thirty acres. This was the original French -capital of Acadia, and the first permanent settlement made by -Europeans in America north of St. Augustine, De Monts founding the -colony in 1605. He named it Port Royal, but the English Puritans a -century later changed this, in honor of their "good Queen Anne," to -Annapolis Royal. Almost from the first settlement to the final capture -by the Puritan expedition from Boston in 1710, its history was a tale -of battles, sieges and captures by many chieftains of the rival -nations. As the Marquis of Lorne in his Canadian book describes it: -"This is the story which is repeated with varying incidents through -all the long-drawn coasts of the old Acadia. We see, first, the forest -village of the Red Indians, with its stockades and patches of maize -around it; then the landing from the ships, under the white flag sown -with golden lilies, of armored arquebussiers and spearsmen; the -skirmishing and the successful French settlement; to be followed by -the coming of other ships, with the red cross floating over the -high-built sterns, and then the final conflict and the victory of the -British arms." Now everything is peaceful, and the people raise -immense crops of the most attractive apples for shipment to Europe. - -East of Annapolis is the "Garden of Nova Scotia." The long ridge of -the North Mountain on the coast screens it from the cold winds and -fogs, while the parallel ridge of the South Mountain stretches for -eighty miles, and between these noble ranges, which are described as -"most gracefully moulded," is a broad and rich intervale extending to -the Basin of Minas and the land of Evangeline, which Longfellow has -made so sadly poetical. Good crops of hay grow on the fertile red -soils, which the farmers gather with their slowly-plodding ox-teams; -and of this region the poet sang mournfully: - - "This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, - Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight, - Stand like Druids of old, with voices sad and prophetic, - Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms, - Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring ocean - Speaks, and in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest." - -To-day, however, "the murmuring pines and the hemlocks" are not there, -excepting in stunted growth in occasional thickets, the land being -meadow and grain fields, with many orchards. Upon a low-lying -peninsula, washed by the placid waters of the Basin of Minas, is the -"Great Meadow," the Grand Pré of the unfortunate Acadians, where in -that early time they had reclaimed from the enormous tides some three -square miles of land, while south of the meadow, on somewhat higher -ground, was their little village. Beyond it the dark North Mountain -ridge stretches to the promontory of Cape Blomidon, dropping off -abruptly six hundred feet into the Basin of Minas. The contented -French lived secluded lives here, avoiding much of the ravages of the -wars raging elsewhere around the Bay of Fundy, and when France ceded -Nova Scotia to England in 1713 they numbered about two thousand. They -took the oaths of loyalty to the British crown, but in the subsequent -French and Indian wars there was much disaffection, and it was -determined in 1755 to remove all the French who lived around the Bay -of Fundy, numbering some eight thousand, so that a loyal British -population might replace them. In September the embarkation began from -Grand Pré, one hundred and sixty young men being ordered aboard ship. -They slowly marched from the church to the shore between ranks of the -women and children, who, kneeling, prayed for blessings upon them, -they also praying and weeping and singing hymns. The old men were sent -next, but the wives and children were kept till other ships arrived. -These wretched people were herded together near the sea, without -proper food, raiment or shelter for weeks, until the transports came, -and it was December before the last of them had embarked. In one -locality a hundred men fled to the woods, and soldiers were sent to -hunt them, often shooting them down. Many in various places managed to -escape, some getting to St. John River, while not a few went to -Quebec, and others found refuge in Indian wigwams in the forests. -There were seven thousand, however, carried on shipboard from the Bay -of Fundy to the various British colonies from New Hampshire to -Georgia, being landed without resources and having generally to -subsist on charity. To prevent their returning, all the French -villages around the Bay of Fundy were laid waste and their homes -ruined. In the Minas district two hundred and fifty houses and a -larger number of barns were burnt. Edmund Burke in the British -Parliament cried out against this treatment, saying: "We did, in my -opinion, most inhumanly, and upon pretences that, in the eye of an -honest man, are not worth a farthing, root out this poor, innocent, -deserving people, whom our utter inability to govern or to reconcile -gave us no sort of right to extirpate." The sad story of Grand Pré and -of Evangeline was historic before Longfellow's day, but he made it -immortal. - - -MINAS TO HALIFAX. - -The Basin of Minas, in the Micmac Indian tradition, was the -beaver-pond and favorite abiding-place of their divinity, Glooscap. On -the great promontory of Cape Blomidon, which stretches northward to -enclose the Basin on its western side, he had his home. The ridge of -the cape turns sharply to the westward and ends in Cape Split, -alongside the Minas Channel. This formation has been compared to the -curved handle of a huge walking-stick, the long North Mountain -stretching far away being the stick. The Micmacs tell us that this -ridge, now bent around to the westward, was Glooscap's beaver-dam, -which he beneficently swung open, so that the surplus waters might run -out and not overflow the meadows around the Basin of Minas. In -swinging it around, however, the terminal cliff of Cape Split was -broken off, and now rises in a promontory four hundred feet high just -beyond the main ridge. Glooscap, we are told, began a conflict in the -Basin with the Great Beaver, and threw at him the five vast rocks now -known as the Five Islands on the northern shore to the eastward of -Parrsboro'. The Beaver was chased out of the Basin, westward through -the Minas Channel, and as a parting salute Glooscap threw his kettle -at him, which overturning, became Spencer's Island, on the northern -shore beyond Cape Split. The enormous tides run through the Minas -Channel at eight miles an hour, and they helped to drive the Great -Beaver over to St. John, where Glooscap finally conquered and killed -him. - -The formation around the head of the Bay of Fundy is largely of rich -and fertile red lowlands, marsh and meadow, much of it being reclaimed -by dyking. The same formation is carried over the Chignecto isthmus, -east of the bay, where the Nova Scotia Peninsula is joined to the -mainland. This is only seventeen miles wide, and across it has been -projected the "Chignecto Ship Railway," designed to shorten by about -five hundred miles the passage of vessels around the Nova Scotia -Peninsula into the St. Lawrence. It is a system of railway tracks on -which the design was to carry ships over the isthmus. Vessels of two -thousand tons were to be lifted out of the water, placed in a huge -cradle, and drawn across by locomotives. The project, estimated as -costing $5,000,000, was stopped in partial completion for want of -funds. On the meadow land to the southward of the Basin of Minas is -Windsor on the Avon, a small shipping town, in which the most famous -building near the river is a broad and oddly-constructed one-story -house, called the Clifton Mansion, which was the home of the author of -_Sam Slick_--Judge Thomas C. Haliburton, a native of Windsor, who died -in 1865. Beyond is Ardoise Mountain, rising seven hundred feet and -having on its northern verge the great Aylesford sand-plain whereof -_Sam Slick_ says: "Plain folks call it, in a gin'ral way, the Devil's -Goose Pasture. It is thirteen miles long and seven miles wide; it -ain't just drifting sands, but it's all but that, it's so barren. It's -uneven or wavy, like the swell of the sea in a calm, and it's covered -with short, thin, dry, coarse grass, and dotted here and there with a -half-starved birch and a stunted, misshapen spruce. It is just about -as silent and lonesome and desolate a place as you would wish to see. -All that country thereabout, as I have heard tell when I was a boy, -was once owned by the Lord, the king and the devil. The glebe-lands -belonged to the first, the ungranted wilderness-lands to the second, -and the sand-plain fell to the share of the last--and people do say -the old gentleman was rather done in the division, but that is neither -here nor there--and so it is called to this day the Devil's Goose -Pasture." Over this sand-plain and the rocky, desolate ridge beyond, -runs the great railway train of the Provinces, on the route between -St. John and Halifax--dignified by the title of the "Flying Bluenose." -It crosses the bleak flanks of Ardoise Mountain and Mount Uniacke, -with its gold mines, through a region which the local chronicler -describes as having "admirable facilities for the pasturage of goats -and the procuring of ballast for breakwaters;" and then comes to the -pleasant shores of Bedford Basin, running several miles along its -beautiful western bank down to Halifax harbor. - - -THE GREAT BRITISH-AMERICAN FORTRESS. - -The city of Halifax is the stronghold of British power in North -America, and is said to be, with the exception of Gibraltar, the best -fortified outpost of the British empire. It is a fortress and naval -station of magnificent development upon an unrivalled harbor. This is -an arm of the sea, thrust for sixteen miles up into the land, and the -Indians called it Chebucto, meaning the "chief haven." A thousand -ships can be accommodated on its spacious anchorages. Its Northwest -Arm, a narrow waterway opening on the western shore just inside the -entrance, makes a long peninsula with water on either side, which in -the centre rises into Citadel Hill, two hundred and fifty-six feet -high. Upon its eastern slopes, running down to the harbor and -spreading two or three miles along it, is the narrow and elongated -town, having the Queen's Dockyard at the northern end. Covering the -broad hilltop is the spacious granite Citadel of Fort George, its -green slopes, covered with luxuriant grass, being now devoted to the -peaceful usefulness of a cow-pasture. Along the harbor and across in -the suburb of Dartmouth are the streets and buildings of the town, -containing forty thousand people. To the southward is the modern -green-covered Fort Charlotte on St. George's Island, commanding the -entrance and looking not unlike a sugar-loaf hat, and both shores are -lined with powerful batteries and forts that make the position -impregnable. The Citadel was begun by the Duke of Kent, Queen -Victoria's father, when he commanded the British forces in Canada in -the latter part of the eighteenth century, and it has since been -enlarged and strengthened. At the entrance gate, grim memorials of the -past, are mounted two old mortars, captured at the downfall of -Louisbourg, on Cape Breton, in 1758. - -Halifax did not have an early settlement, though in the Colonial times -the French came into Chebucto to refit their ships. The Massachusetts -Puritans, who had long been fighting the French and Indians, first -recognized its importance, and in 1748 they sent a petition to -Parliament urging the establishment of a post there, and $200,000 was -voted for a colonizing expedition, of which the English "Lords of -Trade," George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, being the chief, took charge, -hoping for commercial as well as military advantage. Lord Edward -Cornwallis commanded the expedition, which brought twenty-five -hundred colonists, largely disbanded soldiers, into Chebucto, landing -June 21, 1749, and founding Halifax, named in honor of the Chief Lord -of Trade. They were soon attacked by the French and Indians, the -suburbs being burnt, and they were harassed in many ways, leading to -the erection of stockades and forts for defense; but they held the -place, and it was the control of this fine harbor which finally -enabled the British to secure Canada. The fleets and armies were -concentrated here that took and destroyed the famous fortress of -Louisbourg, which, with Quebec, held the Dominion for the French, and -here was also organized the subsequent expedition under Wolfe that -captured Quebec and ended a century and a half of warfare by the -cession of Canada to England. In the American Revolution, Halifax was -a chief base of the British operations, and when that war ended, large -numbers of American loyalists exiled themselves to Halifax. There is -now maintained a garrison of two thousand men and a strong fleet at -Halifax, and the sailor and the soldier are picturesque features of -the streets. The city has pleasant parks and suburbs, but everything -is subordinated to the grim necessities of the fortress, although in -all its noted career Halifax has never been the scene of actual -warfare. - -The Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia is indented by numerous bays that -are good harbors, most of them having small towns and fishery -stations. The western portal of Halifax harbor is Chebucto Head and -Cape Sambro, with dangerous shoals beyond. There have been many -serious wrecks in steering for this entrance during fogs, one of the -most awful being the loss of the steamship "Atlantic" in 1873, when -five hundred and thirty-five persons were drowned. Westward from -Sambro are the broad St. Margaret's and Mahone Bays, and beyond, -Lunenburg on its spacious harbor, a shipping and fishery town of four -thousand people. To the westward are Bridgewater, Liverpool and -Shelburne, with Cape Sable Island at the southwestern extremity of -Nova Scotia, having behind it Barrington within a deep harbor. Off -shore is Seal Island, with its great white guiding light, this being -called, from its position, the "Elbow of the Bay of Fundy," and then -around the "Elbow" is reached the broad estuary of the Tusket River -and the beautiful archipelago of the Tusket Islands. The Tusket is one -of the noted angling and sporting districts of the Province, this -river draining a large part of the lake region of southwestern Nova -Scotia, and having a succession of lakes connected by rapids and -carrying a large amount of water down to the sea. There are eighty of -these lakes of varying sizes. The salmon in the spring run up -numerously, and the trout seek the cool recesses of the forests, while -the rapids, the many islands and the charming woodlands are all -attractive. In the archipelago of the estuary are some three hundred -islands, the group extending out into the sea and having the powerful -tidal currents flowing through their tortuous passages with the -greatest velocity. These islands vary from small and barren rocks up -to larger ones rising grandly from the water and thickly covered with -trees, the channels between being narrow and deep. Among these islands -are some of the best lobster fisheries in America. - -Eastward from Halifax are more deep bays and good harbors, but the -shores are only sparsely peopled, being mostly a wilderness yet to be -permanently occupied, though the venturesome fishermen have their huts -dropped about in pleasant nooks. Here are Musquidoboit and Ship -harbors, with Sherbrooke village in Isaac's harbor. Beyond, the long -projecting peninsula of Guysborough terminates in the famous Cape -Canso, the eastern extremity of Nova Scotia. This peninsula was named -in honor of Sir Guy Carleton, and has the deep indentation of -Chedabucto Bay on its northern side. Here is a village of a few -hundred sailors and fishermen, where the French had a fort in the -seventeenth century, until the Puritans under Sir William Phips came -from Boston in 1690, drove them out and burnt it. Off this coast and -ninety miles out at sea to the southward is the dreaded Sable Island, -a long and narrow sandspit without trees, producing nothing but salt -grass and cranberries. A lighthouse stands at either end, and there -are three flagstaffs for signals at intervals between them, with also -a life-saving station, and the bleaching bones of many a wreck -imbedded in the sands. It has few visitors, excepting those who are -cast away, and everyone avoids it. Yet, strangely enough, the first -American explorers were infatuated with the idea of planting a colony -on this bleak and barren sandbar, and its history has mainly been a -record of wrecks. Cabot originally saw this island, and in 1508 the -first futile attempt was made to settle it, the colony being soon -abandoned, though some live-stock were left there. Sir Humphrey -Gilbert in 1583 lost his ship "Delight" here, with a hundred men, and -going home on her consort, he lost his own life on the Azores. It was -on this fateful voyage that Sir Humphrey, on his storm-tossed vessel -"Squirrel," sweeping past the other, shouted to her crew: "Courage, my -lads, we are as near Heaven by sea as by land." In 1598 a colony of -forty French convicts was placed on the island and forgotten for seven -years, when they were hunted up and twelve survivors found, whom the -King pardoned, and they were then carried back to France dressed in -seal-skins and described as "gaunt, squalid and long-bearded." This -seems to have ended the attempts to colonize Sable Island. The -Spaniards sent out an expedition to settle Cape Breton, but the fleet -was dashed to pieces on this island. The great French Armada, sailing -to punish the Puritans for capturing Louisbourg, suffered severely on -its shoals. The French afterwards lost there the frigate -"L'Africaine," and later the steamer "Georgia" was wrecked. It is a -long, narrow island, bent in the form of a bow, spreading twenty-six -miles including the terminating bars, and nowhere over a mile wide. A -long, shallow lake extends for thirteen miles in the centre. There is -the French Garden, the traditionary spot where the convicts suffered -during their exile, and a graveyard where the shipwrecked are buried. -Wild ponies gallop about, the descendants of those left by the first -settlers, seals bask on the sands, and ducks swim the lake. Such -to-day is Sable Island. - - -PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. - -From Halifax a railroad leads northward across Nova Scotia to Pictou. -It passes through the gold-digging regions of Waverley, Oldham and -Renfrew, then over the rich red soils of the head of the Bay of Fundy -and down the Shubenacadie River, meaning the "place of wild potatoes," -and reaches Truro, an active manufacturing town of over five thousand -people near the head of Cobequid Bay. Beyond, through forests and -hills, it crosses the peninsula to the Pictou coal-fields and comes -out on Northumberland Strait at Pictou harbor. The coal is sent here -for shipment, the name having come from the Indian word _Pictook_, -meaning "bubbling or gas exploding," in allusion to the boiling of the -waters near the coal-beds. Over across the Strait is Prince Edward -Island, its red bluff shores along the edge of the horizon surmounted -by a fringe of green foliage. The Micmacs recognized its peculiarity, -calling it Epayquit, or "Anchored on the Wave." It is one hundred and -thirty miles long and rather narrow, having deep bays, sometimes -almost bisecting the island. The surface is low and undulating, with -fertile soils mostly derived from the old red sandstone. The French -first called it the Isle de St. Jean, but after the cession to England -an effort was made to call it New Ireland, as Nova Scotia was New -Scotland, and finally in 1800 it was given the present name in honor -of Queen Victoria's father. It raises horses, oats, eggs and potatoes, -and relatively to size is the best populated of all the Maritime -Provinces. Charlottetown, inside of Hillsborough Bay,--called -popularly "Ch-town," for short,--is the capital, a quiet place with -about eleven thousand population, the Parliament House being its best -building. A narrow-gauge railway is constructed through the island, -near its western terminal being Summerside, on Bedeque Bay, where -there is a little trade and three thousand people, probably its most -active port. - - -THE ARM OF GOLD. - -The eastern boundary of Nova Scotia is the Canso Strait, separating it -from Cape Breton Island. At Canso, its southern entrance, various -Atlantic cables are landed, while others go off southward to New -York. This strait is a picturesque waterway, fifteen miles long and -about a mile wide, a highway of commerce for the shipping desirous of -avoiding the long passage around Cape Breton, and it is called by its -admirers "The Golden Gate of the St. Lawrence Gulf." The geologists -describe it as a narrow transverse valley excavated by the powerful -currents of the drift period. As it leads directly from the Atlantic -Ocean into the Gulf, more vessels are said to pass it than any other -strait excepting Gibraltar. It has several villages upon the shores, -mainly with Scottish inhabitants, the chief being Port Hawkesbury, -Port Mulgrave and Port Hastings, the latter a point for gypsum export. -Cape Breton Island is about one hundred miles long and eighty miles -wide, its greatest natural feature being the famous "Arm of Gold," -thus named in admiration by the early French explorers. Nearly -one-half the surface of the island is occupied by the lakes and swamps -of this "Bras d'Or," an extensive and almost tideless inland sea of -salt water, ramifying with deep bays and long arms through the centre, -having two large openings into the sea at its northeastern end, and -almost communicating with the Atlantic on its southwestern corner. -This "Arm of Gold" has fine scenery, and presents within the rocky -confines of the island a large lake, the Great Bras d'Or, where the -mariner gets almost out of sight of land. To the southward of Cape -Breton Island is Arichat, or the Isle Madame, having the Lennox -Passage between, this Isle being inhabited by a colony of French -Acadian fishermen. Originally this region was colonized by the Count -de Fronsac, Sieur Denys, the first French Governor of Cape Breton, in -whose honor they always called the Canso Strait the Passage Fronsac, -though since then its present title was adopted, being derived from -the Micmac name of Camsoke, meaning "facing the frowning cliffs." Each -little French settlement here, as on the St. Lawrence, has the white -cottages clustering around the church with the tall spire, and the -curé's house not far away, usually the most elaborate in the -settlement. From the Lennox Passage a short canal has been cut through -the rocks into the southwestern extremity of the Bras d'Or, thus -actually dividing Cape Breton into two islands. - -The village of "St. Peter at the Gate" is passed, and the lake entered -at St. Peter's Inlet, a beautiful waterway filled with islands making -narrow winding channels. Several of these islands are a Government -reservation for a remnant of the Micmacs, and they have a small white -church upon Chapel Island, where they gather from all parts of Cape -Breton for their annual festival on St. Anne's Day. Beyond, the Great -Bras d'Or broadens, an inland sea, the opposite shore almost out of -vision, for the lake is eighteen miles across and fully fifty miles -long. The banks come together at the Grand Narrows, making the -contracted Strait of Barra, and then they expand again into another -lake, neither so long nor so wide, the Little Bras d'Or to the -northeastward, but still nearly fifty miles long, including its -northeastern prolongation of St. Andrew Channel. This in turn opens by -a wider strait into yet another lake to the northward, upon the -farther shore of which is Baddeck. To the westward this lake spreads -into St. Patrick's Channel, and to the northeastward there are thrust -out in parallel lines the two "Arms of Gold" connecting with the sea. -An island over thirty miles long and varying in width separates these -two curious arms. These strangely-fashioned lakes present varied -scenery; the shores in some places are low meadows, in others -gently-swelling hills, and elsewhere they rise into forest-clad -mountains. In the pellucid waters swim jelly-fish of exquisite tints. -The atmosphere blends the outlines and colors so well that it smoothes -the roughness of the wilder regions, and casts a softness over the -scene which adds to its charms. Beyond the bordering mountains, to the -northward, is a dreary and almost uninhabited table-land stretching to -the Atlantic Ocean, where the long projection of remote Cape North -stands in silent grandeur within seventy-five miles of Newfoundland. - -Upon the verge of the northern Bras d'Or Lake, in a charming -situation, is the little town of Baddeck, its houses scattered over -the sloping hillsides and the church spires rising among the trees. A -pretty island stands out in front as a protective breakwater, for -storms often sweep wildly across the broad waters. This is the chief -settlement of the lake district, the Highland Scottish inhabitants -having twisted its present name out of the original French title of -Bedique, there being a population of about one thousand. At the -eastern extremity of Cape Breton Island, on an inlet from the -Atlantic, and near the terminating arms of the Bras d'Or, is the -coal-shipping port of Sydney, with a population of twenty-five -hundred, though excepting coal-piers and colliers there is not much -there to see. This is the port for the Sydney coal-fields, covering -nearly three hundred square miles of the island, and the -mine-galleries being prolonged in various places under the ocean. -These were the first coal deposits worked in America, the French -having got coal out of them in the seventeenth century. They are now -all controlled by the wealthy Dominion Coal Company of Boston. Sydney, -C. B., is a seaport known from its coaling facilities throughout the -world, and while prosaic enough now, it saw stirring scenes in the -Colonial times. The early name for its admirable harbor was Spanish -Bay, because Spanish fishermen gathered there. It was a favorite -anchorage for both French and English fleets in their preparations, as -the tide of battle turned, for attacking New England or Acadia in the -long struggle for supremacy. In 1696 the French assembled in Spanish -Bay for a foray upon Pemaquid. In 1711 Admiral Hovenden Walker, -returning from his unsuccessful expedition against Quebec, his ships -having been dispersed by a storm, collected in this capacious -roadstead the most formidable fleet it had seen, forty-two vessels. -The doughty British Admiral felt so good about it that he set up on -shore a large signboard made by his carpenters, whereon was inscribed -a pompous proclamation claiming possession of the whole country in -honor of his sovereign Queen Anne. The French soon came along, -however, and smashed his signboard, built their fortress of -Louisbourg, and there was a half-century of warfare before the -proclamation was made good and England had undisputed possession. The -settlement on Spanish Bay was not named after Lord Sydney and made the -Cape Breton capital until 1784, when exiled loyalists came from the -United States to inhabit it. - - -THE GREAT ACADIAN FORTRESS. - -Upon the seacoast, twenty-five miles southeast of Sydney, is a low -headland with a dark rocky island in the offing. This headland is Cape -Breton, originally named for the Breton French fishermen who -frequented it, and it in turn named Cape Breton Island. Just west of -Cape Breton is an admirable harbor which, being frequented in the -early days by English fishermen, the French named the _Havre aux -Anglais_, or the "English Port." Upon Point Rochefort, on its western -side, stood the famous French fortress and town of Louisbourg, which -was called "the Dunkirk of America." While grass-grown ruins and some -of the ramparts are still traceable, and visitors find relics, yet -little is left of this great fortress, once regarded as the "Key to -New France," or of the populous French town on the harbor which in the -eighteenth century had a trade of the first importance. It was twice -captured, after remarkable sieges and battles of world-wide renown, -causing the most profound sensations at the time, and now absolutely -nothing is left of the original place but an old graveyard on the -point, where French and English dust commingle in peace under a mantle -of dark greensward. There is at present a settlement of about a -thousand people around the harbor, mainly engaged in the fisheries. -The Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 transferred Newfoundland and Acadia from -France to England, but the French held Cape Breton Island, and many of -their refugees came hither. It was not long before the French King, -Louis XIV., stirred by Admiral Walker's proclamation and anxious about -Canada, determined to fortify the "English Port" and make a commercial -depot there, and in 1714 the plan was laid out, the name being changed -to Louisbourg. In 1720 work began on a prodigious scale, the intention -being to make it the leading fortress in America, and for more than -twenty years France devoted its energy and resources to the completion -of the stupendous fortifications, attracting inhabitants to the place -by bounties, and creating a brisk trade by sea which soon drew -inhabitants for a large town. When completed, this town stood upon the -neck of land on the southwest side of the harbor enclosed by stone -walls having a circuit of nearly three miles. These walls were -thirty-six feet high and forty feet thick at the base, with a ditch -outside eighty feet wide. The fortress was constructed in the first -system of the noted French engineer, Vauban, and required a large -garrison. A battery of thirty guns was located on Goat Island, at the -harbor entrance, and at the bottom of the harbor opposite the entrance -was another, the Royal Battery, also of thirty guns. The land and -harbor sides of the town were defended by ramparts and bastions on -which eighty guns were mounted, the land side also having a deep moat -and projecting bastions, the West Gate on that side being overlooked -by a battery of sixteen guns. There was a ponderous Citadel, and in -the centre of the town the stately stone church of St. John de Dieu, -with attendant nunnery and hospitals. The streets crossed at right -angles, and five gates in the walls on the harbor side communicated -with the wharves. Such was the greatest stronghold in North America in -1745, the famous Louisbourg fortress. - -The people of New England, whose commerce was being preyed upon by -privateers which found refuge in its harbor, and whose frontiers were -harassed by forays thence directed, we are told by the historian, -"looked with awe upon the sombre walls of Louisbourg, whose towers -rose like giants above the northern seas." But the Puritans were not -wont to lie still under such inflictions, nor to confine their efforts -to prayers alone. Massachusetts planned an attack, and the command of -the expedition was given William Pepperell of Kittery, a merchant -ignorant of the art of war. Then followed one of the most -extraordinary events in history. A fleet of about a hundred vessels -carried a force of forty-one hundred undisciplined militia upon a -Puritan crusade, which was started with religious services, the -eloquent preacher, George Whitefield, imploring a blessing and giving -them the motto, _Nil desperandum, Christo duce_. They rendezvoused at -Canso, meeting there Commodore Warren and the British West Indian -fleet by arrangement, and landing at Gabarus Bay, west of Louisbourg, -April 30, 1745. They did not know much about war, but they set fire to -some storehouses, and the black smoke drove down in such volumes upon -the Royal Battery at the bottom of the harbor that its scared French -defenders spiked the guns and fled in the night. The Puritans took -possession, beat off the French who attacked them, got smiths at work, -who drilled out the spikes, and soon from this, the key to the -position, they turned the guns upon the town. Then began a regular -siege, though most unscientific in manner. They captured a French ship -with stores and reinforcements, and by June had breached the walls -twenty-four feet at the King's Bastion, dismounted all the neighboring -guns, made the Goat Island Battery untenable, and ruined the town by -showers of bombs and red-hot balls. Upon June 15th the British fleet -of ten ships was drawn up off the harbor entrance for an attack, and -the land forces were arrayed to assault the West Gate, when the French -commander, knowing he could hold out no longer, decided to surrender, -and on June 17th, the forty-ninth day of the siege, he capitulated. - -Thus the grand fortress fell, as the Puritan historian describes it, -upon the attack of "four thousand undisciplined militia or volunteers, -officered by men who had, with one or two exceptions, never seen a -shot fired in anger in all their lives, encamped in an open country -and sadly deficient in suitable artillery." He continues: "As the -troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the place, their -hearts for the first time sank within them. 'God has gone out of his -way,' said they, 'in a remarkable and most miraculous manner, to -incline the hearts of the French to give up and deliver this strong -city into our hands.'" The capture was the marvel of the time, and -caused the greatest rejoicings throughout the British Empire; while -Pepperell, who was made a Baronet, attributed his success, not to the -guns nor the ships, but to the constant prayers of New England, daily -arising from every village in behalf of the absent army. This victory -at Louisbourg gave them an experience to which is attributed the -American success at Bunker Hill thirty years afterwards. Colonel -Gridley, who planned Pepperell's batteries, is said to have laid out -the hastily constructed entrenchments on Bunker Hill, and the same old -drums that beat in the siege of Louisbourg were at Bunker Hill, the -spirit which this great victory imparted to the Yankee soldiers having -never deteriorated. - -The French were terribly chagrined at the loss of their great -fortress, and in 1746 they sent out the "French Armada" of seventy -ships under the Duc d'Anville, instructed to "occupy Louisbourg, -reduce Nova Scotia, destroy Boston, and ravage the coast of New -England." But storms wrecked and dispersed the fleet, and the vexed -and disappointed commander died of apoplexy, his Vice-Admiral killing -himself. Then a second expedition of forty-four ships was sent under -La Jonquiere to retake Louisbourg, but the English squadrons attacked -and destroyed this fleet off Cape Finisterre, Admirals Warren and -Anson gaining one of the greatest British naval victories of the -eighteenth century. The fortress which thus could not be retaken by -arms was, however, to the general astonishment, surrendered back to -France by diplomacy. The peace of Aix la Chapelle in 1748 ended the -war by restoring Louisbourg and Cape Breton Island to France, and the -historian bluntly records that "after four years of warfare in all -parts of the world, after all the waste of blood and treasure, the war -ended just where it began." France then rebuilt, improved and -strengthened the idolized fortress, sending it a powerful garrison. - -War was renewed in 1755,--the terrible French and Indian War. Halifax -was then the base of British-American operations, and fleets soon -blockaded Louisbourg. The French had twelve warships in the harbor and -ten thousand men in the garrison, but the British, bewailing the -shortsightedness that gave it up by treaty, were bound to retake it at -all hazards. They sent a fleet of one hundred and fifty-six warships -and transports from Spithead, the most powerful England had down to -that time assembled, carrying thirteen thousand six hundred men, with -Admiral Boscawen commanding the navy and General Amherst the army, the -immortal Wolfe being one of the brigadiers. Rendezvousing at Halifax, -this great force sailed against Louisbourg May 28, 1758, the troops -landing at Gabarus Bay, and beginning the attack June 8th, with Wolfe -leading. The French commander sank five of his warships to blockade -the harbor entrance. Wolfe closely followed Pepperell's method, got -batteries in position to bombard the city, and silenced the Goat -Island Battery by his tremendous cannonade. In time he had destroyed -the West Gate, the Citadel and barracks, and burnt three of the French -ships by his red-hot balls. Two more ships ran out of the harbor in a -fog to escape, and one was captured. Two French frigates alone -remained, and a daring attack in boats was made on these, and both -were destroyed. Breaches were rent in the walls, so that the place -became untenable, and finally, after forty-eight days of terrific -siege, Louisbourg, on July 26th, again surrendered to the British. -Then more rejoicings came throughout the Empire, Wolfe was made a -Major General, and the gain to ocean commerce by the downfall of the -fortress, which had been a refuge for privateers, was seen in an -immediate decline in marine insurance rates from thirty to twelve per -cent. The next year the great British fleet and army sailed away from -Louisbourg under Wolfe for the capture of Quebec and the final -conquest of Canada. Then went forth the edict of the conqueror that -the famous French fortress should be utterly destroyed. It was found -as a seaport to be inferior to Halifax, where the admirable harbor is -never closed by ice, and where the forts could make the place -impregnable. The Louisbourg garrison was withdrawn, and the people -scattered, many going to Sydney. All the guns, stores and everything -valuable went to Halifax. In 1760 a corps of sappers and miners -worked six months, demolishing the fortifications and buildings, -overthrowing the walls and glacis into the ditches, leaving nothing -standing but a few small half-ruined private houses, and thus the -proud Acadian fortress was humbled into heaps of rubbish. The merciful -hand of time, left to complete the ruin, has during the centuries -healed most of the ghastly wounds with its generous mantle of -greensward, and the neighboring ocean sounds along the low shores the -eternal requiem of proud Louisbourg. - - -THE MAGDALEN ISLANDS. - -We have come to the uttermost verge of the Continent in quest of "Down -East," and find it elusive and still beyond us. There is yet the -remote island of Newfoundland, and we are pointed thither as still -"Down East." To the northward, lying in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, are -the group of Magdalen Islands, where a steamer calls once a week, -sailing from Pictou, these probably being about as far away as one -would wish to go in his search. There are thirteen in the group, sixty -miles off the extremity of Cape Breton Island, the bleak Cape North. -Acadian fishermen live there, the population being about three -thousand, and New England fishery fleets visit them for cod, mackerel -and seals, with lobsters and sea-trout also abundant, so that these -islands have come to be called in the Provinces the "Kingdom of Fish." -Amherst Island is the chief, having the village and Custom House, the -surface of this and other islands rising in high hills seen from afar. -Coffin Island is the largest of the group, named after Admiral Sir -Isaac Coffin, the original owner. Coffin was a native of Boston, and -in colonial times a distinguished British naval officer. When he was a -Captain he took Governor General Lord Dorchester to Canada in his -frigate, and designing to enter the St. Lawrence, a furious storm -arose. With skill he saved his vessel by managing to get under the lee -of these islands, which broke the force of the gale, and Lord -Dorchester in gratitude procured the grant of the group for Coffin. -There are also the Bird Isles, two bare rocks of sandstone, the -principal one called the Gannet Rock. These are haunted by immense -numbers of sea-birds, whose eggs the islanders gather. The surf dashes -violently against the gaunt rocks on all sides, and they have been -visited by the greatest naturalists of the world, who found them a -most interesting study. A lighthouse is erected on one of them. -Charlevoix, in 1720, recorded his visit here, and his wonder how "in -such a multitude of nests every bird immediately finds her own." It is -also recorded of this remote region that it, too, is a colonizer, the -people of the Magdalen Islands having established three small but -prosperous colonies over on the Labrador shore. Outlying the group to -the westward, eight miles from Amherst, is the desolate rock, -resembling a corpse prepared for burial, known as Deadman's Isle. Tom -Moore sailed past this gruesome place in 1804, and wrote the poem -making it famous: - - "There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore - Of cold and pitiless Labrador, - Where, under the moon, upon mounts of frost, - Full many a mariner's bones are tossed. - - "Yon shadowy bark hath been to that wreck, - And the dim blue fire that lights her deck - Doth play on as pale and livid a crew - As ever yet drank the churchyard dew. - - "To Deadman's Isle in the eye of the blast, - To Deadman's Isle she speeds her fast; - By skeleton shapes her sails are furled, - And the hand that steers is not of this world." - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of America, Volume 5 (of 6), by Joel Cook - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME 5 (OF 6) *** - -***** This file should be named 42842-8.txt or 42842-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/8/4/42842/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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