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diff --git a/42722-8.txt b/42722-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index a6cedb7..0000000 --- a/42722-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11878 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Historic Paris, by Jetta S. Wolff - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Historic Paris - -Author: Jetta S. Wolff - -Release Date: May 16, 2013 [EBook #42722] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORIC PARIS *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed. -Some typographical errors have been corrected. (a list follows the -text.) No attempt has been made to correct or normalize all of the -printed accentuation of names or words in French. (etext transcriber's -note) - - - - - HISTORIC PARIS - - BY THE SAME AUTHOR - - THE STORY OF THE CHURCHES OF PARIS - -[Illustration: LA TOUR DE L'HORLOGE, LES "TOURS POINTUES" DE LA -CONCIERGERIE ET LE MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS - -_Frontispiece_] - - - - - HISTORIC PARIS - - BY JETTA S. WOLFF - - WITH FIFTY-NINE ILLUSTRATIONS - - LONDON - - JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD LIMITED - NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXXI - - _The Mayflower Press, Plymouth, England._ William Brendon & Son, Ltd. - - - TO - - LA FRANCE - - THE BEAUTIFUL--THE VALOROUS - - - - -PREFACE - - -This book, begun many years ago, was laid aside under the stress of -other work, which did not, however, hinder the sedulous amassing of -notes during my long and continuous residence in Paris. The appearance -of the Marquis de Rochegude's exhaustive work, on somewhat the same -lines in a more extensive compass, took me by surprise, and I thought -for a moment that it would render my book superfluous. The vast -concourse of English-speaking people brought hither by the great war, -people keen to learn the history of the beautiful old buildings they -find here on every side, made me understand that an English book of -relatively small compass was needed, and I set to work to finish the -volume planned and begun so long ago. - -I had made the personal acquaintance and consequent notes of most of the -ancient "Stones of Paris" before looking up published notes concerning -them. When such notes were looked up, I can only say their sources were -far too numerous and too scattered to be recorded here. I must beg every -one who may have published anything worth while on Old Paris to receive -my thanks, for I have doubtless read their writings with interest and -benefit. But I must offer special thanks to M. de Rochegude, -for--writing under pressure to get the book ready for press--his work -as a reference book, while pursuing my own investigations, has been -invaluable. - -To my readers I would say peruse what I have written, but use your own -eyes, your own keen observation for learning much more than could be -noted here. Look into every courtyard in the ancient quarters, look -attentively at every dwelling along the old winding streets, and fail -not to look up to their roofs. The roofs are never alike. They are -strikingly picturesque. Old world builders did not work mechanically, -did not raise streets in machine-like style, each structure exactly like -its neighbour, one street barely distinguishable from the street running -parallel or crossing it, according to the habit of to-day. The builders -of _les jours d'antan_ loved their craft; every single house gave scope -for some artistic trait. The roofs offered a fine field for -architectural ingenuity: wonderfully planned windows, chimneys, -balconies, gables are to be seen on the roofs often in most unexpected -corners, in every part of the _Vieux Paris_. Look up!--I cannot urge -this too strongly. And within every old _hôtel_--the French term for -private house or mansion--examine each staircase. In the erection of a -staircase the architect of past ages found grand scope for graceful -lines, and exquisite workmanship. Thus walks even through the dimmest -corners of _la Ville Lumière_ will be for lovers of old-time vestiges a -joy for ever. - -This was an iconoclastic age even before the destructiveness of the -awful war just over. Precious architectural and historical relics were -swept away to make room for brand-new buildings. As it has been -impossible during the past months to verify in every instance the -up-to-date accuracy of notes made previously, it is probable that some -old structures referred to in these pages as still standing may no -longer be found on the spot indicated. But whether in such cases their -site be now an empty space, or occupied by newly built walls, it cannot -fail to be interesting as the site where a vanished historic structure -stood erewhile. - -JETTA SOPHIA WOLFF. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. THREE PALACES 1 - II. AMONG OLD STREETS 22 - III. THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE GREAT MARKETS 35 - IV. THE PALAIS DE JUSTICE 45 - V. THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE 51 - VI. ROUND ABOUT ARTS ET MÉTIERS (THE ARTS AND CRAFTS INSTITUTION) 62 - VII. THE TEMPLE 70 - VIII. THE HOME OF MADAME DE SÉVIGNÉ 81 - IX. NOTRE-DAME 86 - X. L'ÎLE ST-LOUIS 92 - XI. L'HÔTEL DE VILLE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 94 - XII. THE OLD QUARTIER ST-POL 112 - XIII. La Place des Vosges 119 - XIV. The Bastille 123 - XV. In the Vicinity of Two Ancient Churches 126 - XVI. In the Region of the Schools 137 - XVII. La Montagne Ste-Geneviève 144 - XVIII. IN THE VALLEY OF THE BIÈVRE 149 - XIX. RUE ST-JACQUES 152 - XX. LE JARDIN DES PLANTES 155 - XXI. THE LUXEMBOURG 162 - XXII. LES CARMES 168 - XXIII. ON ANCIENT ABBEY GROUND 170 - XXIV. IN THE VICINITY OF PLACE ST-MICHEL 181 - XXV. L'ODÉON 184 - XXVI. ROUND ABOUT THE CARREFOUR DE LA CROIX-ROUGE 186 - XXVII. HÔTEL DES INVALIDES 190 - XXVIII. OLD-TIME MANSIONS OF THE RIVE GAUCHE 194 - XXIX. ANCIENT STREETS OF THE FAUBOURG SAINT-GERMAIN 203 - XXX. THE MADELEINE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 208 - XXXI. LES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES 213 - XXXII. FAUBOURG ST-HONORÉ 216 - XXXIII. PARC MONCEAU 221 - XXXIV. IN THE VICINITY OF THE OPERA 223 - XXXV. ON THE WAY TO MONTMARTRE 227 - XXXVI. ON THE SLOPES OF THE _BUTTE_ 232 - XXXVII. THREE ANCIENT FAUBOURGS 236 - XXXVIII. IN THE PARIS "EAST END" 243 - XXXIX. ON TRAGIC GROUND 246 - XL. LES GOBELINS 251 - XLI. THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF PORT-ROYAL 256 - XLII. IN THE SOUTH-WEST 260 - XLIII. IN NEWER PARIS 263 - XLIV. TOWARDS THE WESTERN BOUNDARY 269 - XLV. LES TERNES 276 - XLVI. ON THE _BUTTE_ 278 - XLVII. AMONG THE COALYARDS AND THE MEAT-MARKETS 290 - XLVIII. PÈRE-LACHAISE 292 - XLIX. BOULEVARDS--QUAYS--BRIDGES 297 - L. LES BOULEVARDS EXTÉRIEURS 309 - LI. THE QUAYS 320 - LII. LES PONTS 337 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - La Tour de L'Horloge, les "Tour pointues" de la - Conciergerie et le Marché aux Fleurs _Frontispiece_ - - PAGE - Le Vieux Louvre 3 - The Louvre of To-day 5 - Palais des Tuileries 9 - Palais-Royal 15 - L'Église St-Germain-l'Auxerrois 20 - Place et Colonne Vendôme 31 - Portail de St-Eustache 37 - La Tour de L'Horloge, les "Tours Pointues" de - la Conciergerie et le Marché aux Fleurs 46 - La Sainte-Chapelle 48 - Rue Quincampoix 63 - St-Nicolas-des-Champs 65 - Rue Beaubourg 67 - La Porte du Temple 71 - Porte de Clisson 75 - Ruelle de Sourdis 77 - Hôtel Vendôme, Rue Béranger 79 - Notre-Dame 87 - Rue Massillon 89 - Place de Grève 95 - La Tour St-Jacques 97 - View across the Seine from Place du Châtelet 99 - Rue Brisemiche 101 - L'Église St-Gervais 103 - Hôtel de Beauvais, Rue François-Miron 105 - Rue Vieille-du-Temple 109 - Rue Éginhard 113 - Rue du Prévôt 115 - Hôtel de Sens 117 - Rue de Birague, Place des Vosges 121 - La Bastille 124 - Rue St-Séverin 127 - Église St-Séverin 129 - Hôtel Louis XV, Rue de la Parcheminerie 131 - St-Julien-le-Pauvre 133 - Bas-relief, Rue Galande 134 - Le Musée de Cluny 139 - St-Étienne-du-Mont 145 - Interior of St-Étienne-du-Mont 147 - Rue Mouffetard et St-Médard 150 - Jardin et Palais du Luxembourg 163 - L'Abbaye St-Germain-des-Prés 171 - Cour de Rohan 179 - Rue Hautefeuille 183 - Castel de la Reine Blanche 253 - La Salpétrière 255 - Rue des Eaux, Passy 271 - St-Pierre de Montmartre 281 - Vieux Montmartre, Rue St-Vincent 282 - Rue Mont-Cenis: Chapelle de la Trinité 283 - Vieux Montmartre: Cabaret du Lapin-Agile 284 - Moulin de la Galette 287 - Le Mur des Fédérés 295 - Old Well at Salpétrière 311 - Cloître de l'Abbaye de Port-Royal 315 - Remains of the Convent des Capucins 317 - Hôtel de Fieubet, Quai des Célestins 325 - Quai des Grands-Augustins 333 - Le Pont des Arts et l'Institut 338 - Pont-Neuf 339 - - - - - - -HISTORIC PARIS - - - - -CHAPTER I - -THREE PALACES - - -THE LOUVRE - -The Louvre has existed on the selfsame site from the earliest days of -the history of Paris and of France. It began as a rough hunting-lodge, -erected in the time of the _rois fainéants_--the "do-nothing" kings: a -primitive hut-like construction in the dark wolf-haunted forest to the -north of the settlement on the islets of the Seine, called Leutekia, the -city of mud, on account of its marshy situation, or Loutouchezi, the -watery city, by its Gallic settlers, by the Romans Lutetia -Parisiorum--the Paris of that long-gone age. The name Louvre, therefore, -may possibly be derived from the Latin Word _lupus_, a wolf. More -probably its origin is the old word _leouare_, whence lower, louvre: a -habitation. - -Lutetia grew in importance, and the royal hunting-lodge in its vicinity -was made into a fortress. The city of mud was soon known by the tribe -name only, Parisii-Paris, and the Louvre, freed from surrounding forest -trees, came within the city bounds. It was gradually enlarged and -strengthened. A white circle in the big court shows the site of the -famous gate between two Grosses Tours built in the time of the -warrior-king Philippe-Auguste. Twelve towers of smaller dimensions were -added by Charles V. Each tower had its own special battalion of -soldiers. The inner chambers of each had their special use. In the Tour -du Trésor, the King kept his money and portable objects of great value. -In the Tour de la Bibliothèque were stored the books of those days, -first collected by King Charles V, and which formed the nucleus of the -National Library. Charles V made many other additions and adornments, -and the first clocks known in France were placed in the Louvre in the -year 1370. About the same time a primitive stove--a _chauffe-poële_--was -first put up there. The grounds surrounding the fortress were laid out -with care, the chief garden stretching towards the north. A menagerie -was built and peopled; nightingales sang in the groves. The palace -became a sumptuous residence. Sovereigns from foreign lands were -received by the Kings of France with great pomp in "_Notre Chastel du -Louvre, où nous nous tenons le plus souvent quand nous sommes en notre -ville de Paris_." - -The Louvre was the scene of two of the most important political events -of the fourteenth century. In the year 1303, when Philippe-le-Bel was -King, the second meeting of that imposing assembly of barons, prelates -and lesser magnates of the realm which formed, as a matter of fact, the -first _états généraux_ took place there. In 1358, at the time of the -rising known as the Jacquerie, Étienne Marcel, Prévôt des Marchands, -made the Louvre his headquarters. In the fourteenth century a King of -England held his court there: Henry V, victorious after Agincourt, kept -Christmas in great state in Paris at the Louvre. - -[Illustration: LE VIEUX LOUVRE] - -The royal palaces of those days, like great abbeys, were fitted with -everything that was needed for their upkeep and the sustenance of their -staff. Workmen, materials, provisions were at hand, all on the premises. -A farm, a Court of Justice, a prison were among the most essential -elements of palace buildings and domains. Yet the Louvre with its -prestige and its immense accommodation was never inhabited continuously -by the Kings of France, and in the sixteenth century the Palace was so -completely abandoned as to be on the verge of ruin. Then François I, -looking forward to the state visit of the Emperor Charles-Quint, sent -workmen in haste and in vast numbers to the Louvre, to repair and -enlarge. Pierre Lescot, the most distinguished architect of the day, -took the great task in hand. The Grosse Tour had already been razed to -the ground. The ancient walls to the south and west were now knocked -down. One wall of the Salle des Cariatides, and the steps leading from -the underground parts of the palace to the ground floor, are all that -remain of the Louvre of Philippe-Auguste. - -It is from this sixteenth-century restoration that the Old Louvre as we -know it dates in its chief lines. Much of the work of decoration was -done by Jean Goujon and by Paul Pouce, a pupil of Michael Angelo. But -the Louvre nevermore stood still. Thenceforward each successive -sovereign, at some period of his reign, took the palace in hand to -beautify, rebuild or enlarge--sometimes, however, getting little beyond -the designing of plans. Richelieu, that arch-conceiver of plans, -architectural as well as political, would fain have enlarged the old -palace on a very vast scale. His King, Louis XIII, laid the first stone -of the Tour de l'Horloge. As soon as the wars of the Fronde were over, -Louis XIV, the greatest builder of that and succeeding ages, determined -to enlarge in his own grand way. An Italian architect of repute was -summoned from Italy; but he and Louis did not agree, and the Italian -went back to his own land. - -[Illustration: THE LOUVRE OF TO-DAY] - -The grand Colonnade, on the side facing the old church, -St-Germain-l'Auxerrois, was built between the years 1667-80 by Claude -Perrault. The façade facing the quay to the south was then added. After -the death of the King's active statesman, Colbert, work at the Louvre -stopped. The fine palace fell from its high estate. It may almost be -said to have been let out in tenements. Artists, savants, men of -letters, took rooms there--_logements!_ The Louvre was, as a matter of -fact, no longer a royal palace. Its "decease" as a king's residence -dates from the death of Colbert. The Colonnade was restored in 1755 by -the renowned architect, Gabriel, and King Louis XVI first put forward -the proposition of using the palace as a great National Museum. It was -the King's wish that all the best-known, most highly valued works of art -in France should be collected, added to the treasures of the _Cabinet du -Roi_, and placed there. The Revolutionary Government put into effect the -guillotined King's idea. The names of its members may be read inscribed -on two black marble slabs up against the wall of the circular -ante-chamber leading to the Galerie d'Apollon, where are preserved and -shown the ancient crown jewels of France, the beautiful enamels of -Limoges and many other precious treasures once the possession of -royalty. This grand gallery, planned and begun by Lebrun in the -seventeenth century, is modern, built in the nineteenth century by -Duban. - -The First Empire saw the completion of the work begun by the -Revolutionists. In the time of Napoléon I the marvellous collection of -pictures, statuary, art treasures of every description, was duly -arranged and classified. The building of the interior court was finished -in 1813. - -On the establishment of the Second Empire, Napoléon III set himself the -task of completely restoring the Louvre and extending it. The Pavillon -de Flore was then rebuilt, joining the ancient palace with the -Tuileries, which for two previous centuries had been the habitation of -French monarchs. - -After the disasters of 1870-71 restoration was again undertaken, but -though the Tuileries had been burnt to the ground the Louvre had -suffered comparatively little damage. - -Within its walls the Louvre has undergone drastic changes since its -conversion from a royal palace to a National Museum. The Salle des Fêtes -of bygone ages has become the Salle Lacaze with its fine collection of -masterpieces. What was once the King's Cabinet, communicating with the -south wing, where in her time Marie de' Medici had her private rooms, is -known as the Salle des Sept Cheminées, filled with examples of early -nineteenth-century French art. - -In the Salle Carrée, where Henri IV was married, and where the murderers -of President Brisson met their fate by hanging--swung from the beams of -the ceiling now finely vaulted--masterpieces of all the grandest epochs -in art are brought together; from among them disappeared in 1911 the now -regained Mona Lisa. Painting, sculpture, works of art of every kind, -every age and every nation fill the great halls and galleries of the -Louvre. We cannot attempt a description of its treasures here. Let all -who love things of beauty, all who take pleasure in learning the -wonderful results of patient work, go and see[A]. - -Nor can I recount here the numberless incidents, the historic happenings -of which the Louvre was the scene. It is customary to point out the -gilded balcony from which Charles IX is popularly supposed to have fired -upon the Huguenots, or to have given the signal to fire, on that fatal -night of St-Bartholemew, 1572. But the balcony was not yet there. Nor is -it probable the young King fired from any other balcony or window. Shots -were fired maybe from the palace by men less timorous. - -On the Seine side of the big court is the site of the ancient Gothic -Porte Bourbon, where Admiral Coligny was first struck and Concini shot -through the heart. In our own time we have the startling theft of the -Joconde from the Salle Carrée, its astonishing return, and the hiding -away of the treasures in the days of war, of air-raids and long-range -guns and threatened invasion, to strike our imagination. "The great -black mass," which the enemy aviator saw on approaching Paris, and knew -it must be the Louvre, grand, majestic, undisturbed, is the most notable -monument of Paris and of France. - - -THE TUILERIES - -The Palace has gone, burnt to the ground in the war year 1870-71. The -gardens alone remain, those beautiful Tuileries gardens, the brightest -spot on the right bank of the Seine. Several moss-grown pillars, some -remnants of broken arches, the pillars and frontal of the present Jeu de -Paume and of the Orangery, are all that is left to-day of the royal -dwelling that erewhile stood there. The palace was built at the end of -the sixteenth century by Catherine de' Medici to replace the ancient -palace Les Tournelles, in the Place Royale, now Place des Vosges, where -King Henri II had died at a festive tournament, his eye and brain -pierced by the sword of his great general, Comte de Montmorency. Queen -Catherine hated the sight of the palace where her husband had died thus -tragically. Its destruction was decreed; and the Queen commanded the -erection in its stead of the _magnifique bâtiment de l'Hôtel royal, dit -des Tuileries des Parisiens, parcequ'il y avait autrefois une Tuilerie -au dit lieu_. - -The site of that big tile-yard was in those days outside the city -boundary. The architect, Philibert Delorme, set to work with great -ardour. A rough road was made leading from the _bac_, i.e. the ford -across the Seine, now spanned near the spot by the Pont Royal, to the -quarries in the neighbourhood of Notre-Dame-des-Champs and Vaugirard, -whence stone was brought. Thus was born the well-known Rue du Bac. The -palace was from the first surrounded by a fine garden, separated until -the time of Louis XIV from the Seine on the one side, from the palace on -the other, by a _ruelle_; i.e. a narrow street, a lane. - -[Illustration: PALAIS DES TUILERIES] - -Catherine took up her abode at the new palace as soon as it was -habitable; but the Queen-Mother was restless and oppressed, haunted by -presentiments of evil. An astrologer had told her she would meet her -death beneath the ruins of a mansion in the vicinity of the church, -St-Germain-l'Auxerrois. She left her new palace, therefore, bought the -site of several houses, appropriated the ground and buildings of an old -convent in the neighbourhood of St-Eustache, had erected on the spot a -fine dwelling: l'hôtel de la Reine, known later as l'hôtel de Soissons, -where we see to-day the Bourse de Commerce. One column of the Queen's -palace still stands there, within it a narrow staircase up which she -was wont to climb with her Italian astrologer. - -Meanwhile, the Tuileries palace showed no signs of ruin--quite the -reverse. Catherine's son, Charles IX, had a bastion erected in the -garden on the Seine side; a small dwelling-house, a pond, an aviary, a -theatre, an echo, a labyrinth, an orangery, a shrubbery were soon added. -Henri IV began a gallery to join the new palace to the Louvre, a work -accomplished only under Louis XIV. Under Henri's son, Louis XIII, the -Tuileries was the centre of the smart life of the day; visitors of -distinction, but not of royal rank, were often entertained in royal -style in the pavilion in the garden. Under Louis XIV the King's renowned -garden-planner, Le Nôtre, took in hand the spacious grounds and made of -them the Jardin des Tuileries, so famous ever since. The fine statues by -Coustou, Perrault, Bosi, etc., were soon set up there. The _manège_ was -built--a club and riding-school stretching from what is now the Rue de -Rivoli from the then Rue Dauphine, now Rue St-Roch, to Rue Castiglione. -There the _jeunesse dorée_ of the day learned to hold in hand their -fiery thoroughbreds. The cost of subscription was 4000 francs--£160--a -year, a vast sum then. Each member was bound to have his personal -servant, duly paid and fed. A swing-bridge was set across the moat on -the side of the waste land, soon to become Place Louis XV, now Place de -la Concorde. - -The Garden was not accessible to the public in those days. Until the -outbreak of the Revolution, the _noblesse_ or their privileged -associates alone had the right to pace its alleys. Soldiers were never -permitted to walk there. Once a year only, a great occasion, its gates -were thrown open to the _peuple_. - -A period of neglect followed upon the fine work done under Louis XIV. -His successor cared nothing for the Tuileries palace and grounds. They -fell into a most lamentable state; and, when in the troublous days of -the year 1789, Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette and their little son took up -their abode at the Tuileries, the Dauphin looked round in disgust. -"Everything is very ugly here, _maman_," he said. It was the Paris home -of the unhappy royal family thenceforth until they were led from the -shelter of its walls to the Temple prison. It was from the Tuileries -they made the unfortunate attempt to fly from France. Stopped at -Varennes, the would-be fugitives were led back to the palace across the -swing-bridge on the south-western side. Beneath the stately trees of the -garden the Swiss Guards were massacred soon afterwards. The -Revolutionary authorities had taken possession of the Riding-School, a -band of tricolour ribbon was stretched along its frontage and the -Assemblée Nationale, which had sat first in the old church, St-Pol, then -at the _archevêché_, installed itself there. There, under successive -governments, were decreed the division of France into departments, the -suppression of monastic orders, the suspension of the King's royal power -after his flight. And there, in 1792, Louis XVI was tried, and after a -sitting lasting thirty-seven hours condemned to death. The Terrace was -nicknamed the Jardin National; sometimes it was called the Terre de -Coblentz, a sarcastic reference to emigrated nobles who erewhile had -disported there. In 1793, potatoes and other vegetables--food for the -population of Paris--grew on Le Nôtre's flower-beds, replacing the gay -blossoms of happier times, even as in our own dire war days beans, etc., -are grown in the park at Versailles, and the government of the day sat -in the Salle des Machines within the Palace walls. - -On June 7th, 1794, the Tuileries palace and gardens were the scene of a -great Revolutionary fête. A few months later the body of Jean-Jacques -Rousseau was laid out in state in the dry _bassin_ before being carried -to the Panthéon. Revolutionary fêtes were a great feature of the day, -and Robespierre, in the intervals of directing the deadly work of the -Guillotine, devised the semi-circular flower-beds surrounded by stone -benches for the benefit of the weak and aged who gathered at those -merry-makings. - -Then it was Napoléon's turn. The Tuileries became an Imperial palace. -For Marie Louise awaiting the birth of the son it was her mission to -bear, a subterranean passage was made in order that the Empress might -pass unnoticed from the palace to the terrace-walk on the banks of the -Seine. The birth took place at the Tuileries, and a year or two later a -pavilion was built for the special use of the young "Roi de Rome." At -the Tuileries, in the decisive year 1815, the chiefs of the Armies -allied against the Emperor met and camped. - -Louis XVIII died there in 1824. In 1848, Louis-Philippe, flying before -the people in revolt, made his escape along the hidden passage cut in -1811 for Marie-Louise. The palace was then used as an ambulance for the -wounded and for persons who fell fainting in the Paris streets during -the tumults of that year. Its last royal master was Napoléon III. The -new Emperor set himself at once to restore, beautify and enlarge. The -great iron railing and the gates on the side of the Orangery were put up -in 1853. A _buvette_ for officers was built in the garden. The Prince -Imperial was born at the Tuileries in 1854. During the twenty years of -Napoléon's reign, the Tuileries was the scene of gay, smart life. The -crash of 1870 was its doom. The Empress Eugénie fled from its shelter -after Sedan. The Commune set fire to its walls. Crumbling arches, -blackened pillars remained on the site of the palace until 1883. Then -they were razed, cleared away and flower-beds laid out, where grand -halls erewhile had stood. The big clock had been saved from destruction. -It was placed among the historic souvenirs of the Musée Carnavalet. The -Pavillon de Marsan of the Louvre, built by Louis XIV, and the Pavillon -de Flore joining the Tuileries, were rebuilt in 1874. - - -THE PALAIS-ROYAL - -Crossing the Rue de Rivoli in the vicinity of the Louvre, we come to -another palace--the Palais-Royal--of less ancient origin than the Louvre -or the Tuileries, and never, strictly speaking, a royal palace. Built in -the earlier years of the seventeenth century by Louis XIII's powerful -statesman, Cardinal Richelieu, it was known until 1643 as the -Palais-Cardinal. Richelieu had lived at 20 and 23 of the Place-Royale, -now Place des Vosges, and at the mansion known as the Petit Luxembourg, -Rue de Vaugirard. The great man determined to erect for himself a more -splendid residence, and made choice of the triangular site formed by the -Rue des Bons-Enfants, Rue St-Honoré and the city wall of Charles V, -whereon to build. Several big mansions encumbered the spot. Richelieu -bought them all, had their walls razed, gave the work of construction -into the hands of Jacques de Merrier. That was in the year 1629. The -central mansion was ready for habitation four years later; additions -were made, more _hôtels_ bought and razed during succeeding years. Not -content with mere courts and gardens around his palace, the Cardinal -acquired yet another mansion, the hôtel Sillery, in order to make upon -its site a fine square in front of his sumptuous dwelling. He did not -live to see its walls knocked down. A few days after the completion of -this purchase the famous statesman lay dead. It was then--a month or two -later--that the Palais-Cardinal became the Palais-Royal. By his will, -Richelieu bequeathed his palace to his King, Louis XIII, who died a few -months later. Anne d'Autriche, mother of the young Louis XIV, was living -at the Louvre which, in a continual state of reparation and enlargement, -was not a comfortable home. Richelieu's fine new mansion tempted her. It -was truly of royal aspect and dimensions, and was fitted with all "the -modern conveniences and comforts" of that day. To quote the words of a -versifier of the time: - - "Non, l'Univers ne peut rien voir d'égal. - Aux superbes dehors du Palais Cardinal. - Toute une ville entière avec pompe bâtie; - Semble d'un vieux fossé par miracle sortie. - Et nous fait présumer à ses superbes toits - Que tous ses habitants sont des Dieux ou des Rois." - -[Illustration: PALAIS-ROYAL] - -In 1643 the Queen moved across to it with her family. When the King left -it in 1652, Henriette of England, widow of Charles I, lived there for a -time. In 1672 Louis XIV made it over to his brother the duc d'Orléans, -who did some rebuilding, but the most drastic changes were made in the -vast construction close upon Revolutionary days. Then, in 1784, -Philippe-Égalité, finding himself in an impecunious condition, -conceived a fine plan for making money. Round three sides of the -extensive garden of his palace he built galleries lined with premises to -let--shops, etc.--and opened out around them three public thoroughfares: -Rue de Valois, Rue Beaujolais, Rue Montpensier. The garden thus -truncated is the Jardin du Palais-Royal as we know it to-day. It was -even in those days semi-public. Parisians from all time have loved a -fine garden, and the population of the city resented this curtailment. -They resented more especially the mercantile spirit which had prompted -it. - -It was in the year 1787 that the theatre known subsequently as the -Comédie Française, more familiarly the "Français," was built. The -artistes of the _Variétés_ _Amusantes_ played there then, and for -several succeeding years. The theatre Palais-Royal had already been -built, bore many successive different names and became for a time the -Théâtre Montansier, later Théâtre de la Montagne. The fourth side of the -palace had been left unfinished. The duc d'Orléans had planned its -completion in magnificent style. The outbreak of the Revolution put a -stop to all such plans. Temporary wooden galleries had been built in -1784. They were burnt down in 1828 and replaced by the Galerie -d'Orléans, now let out in flats. - -Richelieu was titular Superintendent-General of the Marine: some of the -friezes and bas-reliefs illustrative of this office, decorating the -Galerie des Proues, are still to be seen there. But of the great -statesman's original palace comparatively little remains. The duc -d'Orléans, Regent for Louis XV, razed a great part of Richelieu's -construction; many of the walls of the palace as we know it date from -his time--1702-23. Disastrous fires wrought havoc in 1763 and 1781. The -financially inspired transformations of Philippe-Égalité made in 1786, -and finally the incendiary work of the Commune in 1871, changed the -whole aspect of the palace. It went through many phases also during the -Revolution. Seized as national property, it was known for a time as -Palais-Égalité. Revolutionary meetings took place in its gardens. -Revolutionary clubs were organized in its galleries. The statue of -Camille Desmoulins, set up in recent years--1905--records that decisive -day, July 12th, 1789, when Desmoulins, haranguing the crowd, hoisted a -green cocarde in sign of hope. That garden was thenceforth through many -years the meeting-place of successive political agitators. In our own -day the Camelots du Roi met and agitated there. - -Under Napoléon as Premier Consul, the Tribunat was established there in -a hall since razed. The Bourse de Commerce succeeded the Tribunat. Then -the Orléans regained possession of the palace and Prince Louis-Philippe -went thence to the hôtel de Ville, to return Roi des Français. - -The galleries and the façade of the portico of the second court date -from the first half of the nineteenth century. The upheaval of 1848 and -the reign of Napoléon III resulted in further changes for the -Palais-Royal. It became for a time Palais-National, and was subsequently -put to military uses. Then King Jérôme took up his abode there, and was -succeeded by his son Prince Napoléon. The little Gothic Chapel where -Princess Clothilde was wont to pray serves now as a lumberroom. Prince -Victor, the husband of Princess Clémentine of Belgium, was born at the -Palais-Royal in 1862. - -The galleries surrounding the garden are brimful of historic -associations. Besides the clubs, noted Revolutionary clubs which met in -the cafés, notorious gambling-houses existed there. - -Galerie Montpensier, Nos. 7-12, is the ancient Café Corazza, the famous -rendezvous of the Jacobins, frequented later by Buonaparte, Talma, etc.; -36, once Café des Mille Colonnes, was so named from the multiple -reflection in surrounding mirrors of its twenty pillars. At 50 we see -the former Café Hollandais, which had as its sign a guillotine; at 57-60 -the Café Foy, before the doors of which Desmoulins harangued the people -crowding there. - -Galerie Beaujolais, No. 103--now a bar and dancing-hall--is the ancient -Café des Aveugles, where in the sous-sol an orchestra played, formed -entirely of blind men from the Quinze-Vingts, the hospital at first -close by then removed to Rue Charenton, while the Sans-Culottes met and -plotted. The mural portraits of notable Revolutionists seen there is -modern work. - -Galerie de Valois, Nos. 119, 120, 121, Ombres Chinoises de Séraphin -(1784-1855) and Café Mécanique formed practically the first Express-Bar. -At 177, was formerly the cutler's shop where Charlotte Corday bought the -knife to slay Marat. - -Of the three streets made by the mercantile-minded duc d'Orléans the -walls of two still stand undisturbed. In Rue de Valois we see, at No. 1, -the ancient pavilion and passage leading from the Place de Valois, -formerly the Cour des Fontaines, where the inhabitants of Palais-Royal -drew their water; at 6-8 the restaurant, Boeuf à la mode, built by -Richelieu as hôtel Mélusine; at 10, the façade of hôtel de la -Chancellerie d'Orléans; at 20, hôtel de la Fontaine-Martel, inhabited -for a year by Voltaire, 1732-33. In Rue de Beaujolais we find the -theatre which began as Théâtre des Beaujolais, was for several years -towards the close of the eighteenth century a theatre of Marionnettes, -and is now Théâtre Palais-Royal. Then Rue de Montpensier--1784--shows us -interesting old windows, ironwork, etc.; Rue Montesquieu--1802--runs -where the Collège des Bons-Enfants once stood. The Mother-house of the -Restaurants Duval, so well known in every quarter of Paris, at No. 6, is -on the site of the ancient Salle Montesquieu, once a popular dancing -saloon, then a draper's shop with the sign of "Le Pauvre Diable" where -the founder of the world-known Bon Marché was in his youth a salesman. - -Three notable churches stand in the immediate vicinity of these three -palaces. The ancient St-Germain-l'Auxerrois, St-Roch, erewhile its -chapel of ease, and the Oratoire. St-Germain opposite the Louvre was the -Chapel Royal of past ages. Its bells pealed for royal weddings, -announced the birth of princes, tolled for royal deaths, rang on every -other occasion of great national importance. Its biggest bell sounded -the death-knell of the Protestants on the fatal eve of St-Bartholomew's -Day, 1572. No part of the fine old church as its stands to-day dates -back as a whole beyond the fifteenth century, but a chapel stood on the -site as early as the year 560. A baptistery and a school were built -close to the chapel about a century later, and this early foundation was -the eldest daughter of Notre-Dame--the Paris Cathedral. After its -destruction by the invading Normans, it was rebuilt as a fine church by -Robert le Pieux, in the first years of the eleventh century, and no -doubt many of its ancient stones found a place in the walls of -successive rebuildings and restorations. The beautiful Gothic edifice is -rich in ancient glass, marvellous woodwork, pictures, statuary and -historic memorials. - -[Illustration: L'ÉGLISE ST-GERMAIN-L'AUXERROIS] - -The first stone of St-Roch, in the Rue St-Honoré, was laid by Louis XIV, -in 1653, but the church was not finished till nearly a century later. In -the walls of its Renaissance façade we see marks of the grape-shot--the -first ever used--that poured from the guns of the soldiers of the young -Corsican officer, Napoléon Buonaparte, in the year 1795. Buonaparte had -taken up his position opposite the church, facing the insurgent -_sectionnaires_ grouped on its broad steps. The fight that followed was -the turning-point in the early career of the young officer fated to -become for a time master of the city and of France. St-Roch is -especially interesting on account of its many monuments of notable -persons of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and its groups of -statuary. The Calvary of the Catechists' Chapel, as seen through the -opened shutters over the altar in the Chapel of the Adoration, is of -striking effect. - -The Oratory, Rue de Rivoli and Rue St-Honoré, was built during the early -years of the seventeenth century as the mother-church of the Society of -the Oratorians, founded in 1611, and served at times as the Chapel -Royal. The Revolution broke up the Society of the Oratorians, their -church was desecrated, secularized. In 1810, it was given to the -Protestants and has been ever since the principal French Protestant -Church of Paris. The statue of Coligny on the Rue de Rivoli side is -modern--1889. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -AMONG OLD STREETS - - -Round about these old palaces and churches some ancient streets still -remain and many old houses, relics of bygone ages. Others have been -swept away to make room for up-to-date thoroughfares, shops and -dwellings. Place de l'École and Rue de l'École record the existence of -the famous school at St-Germain-l'Auxerrois, a catechists' school in the -first instance, of more varied scope in Charlemagne's time, where the -pupils took their lessons in the open air when fine or climbed into the -font of the baptistery when the font was dry. Rue de l'Arbre-Sec, once -Rue de l'Arbre-Sel, from an old sign, a thoroughfare since the twelfth -century, was in past days the site of the gallows. There it is said -Queen Brunehaut was hacked to death. Part of this ancient street was -knocked down to make way for the big shop "la Samaritaine"; but some -ancient houses still stand. No. 4, recently razed, is believed to have -been the hôtel des Mousquetaires, the home of d'Artagnan, -lieutenant-captain of that famous band. - -Rue Perrault runs where in bygone times Rue d'Auxerre, dating from 1005, -and Rue des Fossés St-Germain-l'Auxerrois stretched away to the -Monnaie--the Mint. No. 4, hôtel de Sourdis, rebuilt in the eighteenth -century, was the home in her childhood of Gabrielle d'Estrées. No. 2, is -the entrance to the _presbytère_ St-Germain-l'Auxerrois. Rue de la -Monnaie, a thirteenth-century street known at first by other names, -recalls the existence of the ancient Mint on the site of Rue Boucher -close by. In Rue du Roule, eighteenth century, we see old ironwork -balconies. Rue du Pont-Neuf is modern, on the line of ancient streets of -which all traces have gone. Most of the houses in Rue des Bourdonnais -are ancient: In the walls of No. 31 we see two or three ancient stones -of the famous La Trémouille Mansion once there occupied by the English -under Charles VI. No. 34 dates from 1615. From the door of 39 the -Tête-Noire with its _barbe d'Or_, which gave the house its name, still -looks down. The sixth-century cabaret of l'Enfant-Jesus, the monogram -I.H.S. in wrought iron on its frontage, has been razed. No. 14 is -believed to have been the home of Greuze. The impasse at 37, in olden -times Fosse aux chiens, was a pig-market where in the fourteenth century -heretics were burnt. Rue Bertin-Poirée dates from the early years of the -thirteenth century, recording the name of a worthy citizen of those long -past days. At No. 5 we see a curious old sign "La Tour d'Argent"; out of -this old street we turn into the Rue Jean-Lantier recording the name of -a thirteenth-century Parisian, much of it and the ancient place du -Chevalier-du-Guet which was here, swept away in 1854. Rue des -Lavandières-Ste-Opportune, thirteenth century, reminds us of the -existence of an old church, Ste-Opportune, in the neighbourhood. Rue des -Deux-Boules existed under another name in the twelfth century. And here -in the seventeenth century was l'École du Modèle, nucleus of l'Académie -des Beaux-Arts. - -Rue des Orfèvres began in 1300 as Rue des Deux-portes. An old chapel, -St-Eloi, stood till 1786 by the side of No. 8. Rue St-Germain-l'Auxerrois -was a thoroughfare so far back as the year 820. No. 19 is the site of a -famous episcopal prison: For-l'Evêque. 38, at l'Arche Marion, duels were -wont to be fought in olden days. Rue des Bons-Enfants, aforetime Rue -des Echoliers St-Honoré, was so-called from the College founded in 1202 -for "les Bons-Enfants" on the site of the neighbouring Rue Montesquieu, -suppressed in 1602. Many of the old houses we see there were the -possession and abode of the dignitaries of St-Honoré. A tiny church -dedicated to Ste-Claire was in past days close up against the walls of -No. 12. A vaulted arch and roof and staircase, lately razed, formed -the entrance to the ancient cloister. Beneath a coat-of-arms over the -doorway of No. 11, where is the Passage de la Vérité, an old inscription -told of a reading-room once there, where both morning and evening papers -were to be found. 19, hôtel de la Chancellerie d'Orléans, is on the -site of a more ancient mansion. All the houses of this and neighbouring -streets show some trace of their former state. Rue Radziwill was once -Rue Neuve des Bons-Enfants, the name still to be seen on an old wall -near the Banque de France. Nearly all the houses there have now become -dependencies and offices of the Banque de France, one side of which -gives upon the even number side of the street. At No. 33 is a wonderful -twin staircase. At its starting it divides in two and winds up with -old-time grace to the top story. Two persons can mount at once without -meeting. Rue la Vrillière dates from 1652, named after the Secrétaire -d'État of Louis XIV, whose mansion, remodelled, is the Banque de France -with added to it the Salle Dorée des Fêtes and some other remains of the -hôtel de Toulouse. - -Rue Croix des Petits-Champs dates from 1600, its name referring to a -cross which stood on the site of No. 12. No. 7, entrance of the old -Cloître St-Honoré. In the courtyard of No. 21 we see traces of the -habitation of the abbés. No. 23, hôtel des Gesvres, was the home of the -parents of Mme de Pompadour. - - * * * * * - -Two long and important streets, one ancient the other modern, stretch -through the entire length of this first arrondissement from east to -west: Rue de Rivoli and Rue St-Honoré. - -Rue de Rivoli, dating from the first half of the nineteenth century, was -begun at its western end in the year 1811, across the site of ancient -royal stables, along the line of the famous riding-school of the -Tuileries gardens, and on through grounds erewhile the property of the -three great convents: les Feuillants, les Capucins, l'Assomption. It -swept away ancient streets and houses, picturesque courts and corners--a -fine new thoroughfare built over the ruins of historic walls and -pavements. There is little to say, therefore, about the buildings one -sees there now. The hôtel Continental is on the site of one of the first -of the constructions then erected--the Ministère des Finances, built -during the second decade of the nineteenth century, burnt to the ground -by the Commune in 1871. The famous Salle des Manèges, where the -Revolutionary governments sat and King Louis XVI's trial took place, was -on the site of the houses numbered 230-226: l'hôtel Meurice, restaurant -Rumpelmayer, etc., No. 186, a popular tearoom run by a British firm, is -near the site of the Grande Écurie of vanished royalty, and of a -well-known passage built there in the early years of the nineteenth -century. - -Admiral Coligny fell assassinated on the spot occupied by the house -number 144. Passing on into the fourth arrondissement, we come to the -Square St-Jacques, formed in 1854, where had stood the ancient church -St-Jacques-la-Boucherie, of which the tower alone remains, a beautiful -sixteenth-century tower, restored in the nineteenth century by the -architect Ballu. Nos. 18-16 are on the site of the ancient convent of -the Petit St-Antoine. In its chapel the Committee of the section "des -droits de l'Homme" sat in Revolution days. - -Rue St-Honoré is full of historic houses and historic associations. Its -present name dates only from the year 1540, recalling the existence of -the collegiate church of the district. Like most other long, old -thoroughfares, Rue St-Honoré is made up of several past-time streets -lying in a direct line, united under a single name. Almost every -building along its course bears interesting traces of past grandeur or -of commercial importance. Many have quaint, odd sign-boards: No. 96 is -on the site of the Pavillon des Singes, where, in 1622, Molière was -born. At No. 115 we see inscriptions dating from 1715. No. 108 is -l'hôtel de l'Ecouvette, formerly part of hôtel Brissac. No. 145 is on a -site where passed the boundary wall of Phillippe-Auguste and where was -built subsequently a mansion inhabited by the far-famed duc de Joyeuse, -then by Gabrielle d'Estrées, and wherein one Jean Châtel made an attempt -upon the life of Henri IV. Nos. 180, 182, 184 were connected with the -Cloître St-Honoré. No. 202 bore an inscription recording the erection -here of the Royal Academy of Music by Pierre Moreau--1760-70--burnt down -ten years later. No. 161, the Café de la Régence, replaced the famous -café founded at the corner of the Palais-Royal in 1681, the -meeting-place of chess-players. A chessboard was lent at so much the -hour, the rate higher after sunset to pay for the two candles placed -near. Voltaire, Robespierre, Buonaparte, Diderot, etc., and in later -days Alfred de Musset and his contemporaries, met here. The city wall of -Charles V passed across the site with its gateway, Porte St-Honoré. At -this spot Jeanne d'Arc was wounded in 1429 and carried thence to the -maison des Genêts on the site of No. 4, Place du Théâtre-Français. A bit -of the ancient wall was found beneath the pavement there some ten years -ago. No. 167, Arms of England. No. 280: Jeanne Vanbernier is said to -have been saleswoman in a milliner's shop here. No. 201 shows the -old-world sign "Au chien de St-Roch." At No. 211, hôtel St-James, are -traces of the ancient hôtel de Noailles, which included several distinct -buildings and extensive grounds. Part of it became, at the Revolution, -the Café de Vénus; part the meeting-place of the Committees of -Revolutionary governments. At 320 we see another old sign-board: "A la -Tour d'Argent." No. 334 was inhabited by Maréchal de Noailles, brother -of the Archbishop of Paris, in 1700. Nos. 340-338 show traces of the -ancient convent of the Jacobins. At No. 350, hôtel Pontalba, with its -fine eighteenth-century staircase, lived Savalette de Langes, keeper of -the Royal Treasure, who lent seven million francs to the brothers of -Louis XVI, money never repaid, the home in Revolution days of Barrère, -where Napoléon signed his marriage contract. Nos. 235, 231, 229, were -built by the Feuillants 1782 as sources of revenue, and are the last -remaining vestiges of the old convent. At 249 we see the Arms and -portrait of Queen Victoria dating from the time of Louis-Philippe. No. -374 was the hôtel of Madame Géoffrin, whose salon was the meeting-place -of the most noted politicians, _littérateurs_ and artistes of the day, -among them Châteaubriand, who made the house his home for a time. At No. -263 stands the chapel of the ancient convent des Dames de l'Assomption -(_see_ p. 29). - -No. 398 is perhaps in part the very house, more probably the house -entirely rebuilt, inhabited for a time by Robespierre and some of his -family and by Couthon. No. 400 was the Imperial bakery in the time of -Napoléon III. No. 271, now a modern erection, was till quite recently -the famous cabaret du St-Esprit, dating from the seventeenth century, -where during the Terreur sightseers gathered to watch the tragic -chariots pass laden with victims for the guillotine. Marie-Antoinette -passed that way and was subjected to that cruel scrutiny. - -The greater number of the streets of this arrondissement running -northwards start from Rue de Rivoli, and cross Rue St-Honoré, or start -from the latter. Beginning at the western end of Rue Rivoli, we see Rue -St-Florentin dating from 1640, so named more than a century later when -the comte de St-Florentin deputed the celebrated architects Chalgrin and -Gabriel to build the mansion we see at No. 2. It was a splendid mansion -then, with surrounding galleries, fine gardens, a big fountain, and was -the home of successive families of the _noblesse_. In 1792, it was the -Venetian Embassy, under the Terreur a saltpeter factory. At No. 12 was -an inn where people gathered to watch the condemned pass to the -scaffold. - -Rue Cambon, so named after the Conventional author of the Grand Livre de -La Dette Publique, dates in its lower part, when it was Rue de -Luxembourg, from 1719, prolonged a century later. Some of the older -houses still stand, and have interesting vestiges of past days; others, -razed in recent years, have been replaced by modern constructions. The -new building, "Cour des Comptes," built to replace the Palais du Quai -d'Orsay burnt by the Communards in 1871, is on the site of the ancient -convent of the Haudriettes, suppressed in 1793, when it became the -garrison of the Cent Suisses, later a financial depot. The convent -chapel, left untouched, serves as the catechists' chapel for the -Madeleine, and has services attended especially by Poles. - -In Rue Duphot, opened in 1807 across the old garden of the Convent of -the Conception, we see at No. 12 an ancient convent arch and courtyard. - -Rue Castiglione (1811) stretches across the site of the convents Les -Feuillants and Les Capucins. - -In Rue du Mont-Thabor, stretching where was once a convent garden, a -vaulted roof and chapel-like building at No. 24, at one time an artist's -studio, remains of the convent once there, is about to be razed. Orsini -died at No. 10; Alfred de Musset at No. 6 (1857). - - -PLACE VENDÔME - -In the year 1685 Louis XIV set about the erection of a grand _place_ -intended as a monument in his own honour. The site chosen was that of -the hôtel Vendôme which had recently been razed, and of the neighbouring -convent of the Capucins. The death of Louvois--1691--interrupted this -work. It was taken in hand a year or two later by Mansart and Boffrand, -who designed in octagonal form the vast _place_ called at first Place -des Conquêtes, then Place Louis-le-Grand. A statue of Louis XIV was set -up there in 1699. The land behind the grand façades and houses erected -by the State was sold for building purposes to private persons, and the -notorious banker Law and his associates finished the Place in 1720. -Royal fêtes were held there and popular fairs. Soon it was the scene of -financial agitations, then of Revolutionary tumults. On August 10, 1792, -heads of the guillotined were set up there on spikes and the square was -named Place des Piques. A bonfire was made of volumes referring to the -title-deeds of the French _noblesse_ and the archives of the St-Esprit; -and in 1796 the machines which had been used to make _assignats_ were -solemnly burnt there. In 1810 the Colonne d'Austerlitz was set up where -erewhile had stood the statue of Louis XIV, made of cannons taken from -the enemy, its bas-reliefs illustrative of the chief events of the -momentous year 1805. It was surmounted by a statue of Napoléon, which, -in 1814, the Royalists vainly attempted to pull down by means of ropes. -It was taken away later, the _drapeau blanc_ put up in its stead. -Napoléon's statue, melted down, was transformed into the statue of Henri -IV on the Pont-Neuf, replacing the original statue set up there (_see_ -p. 340). In 1833, Napoléon went up again, a newly designed statue, -replaced in its turn by a reproduction of the first one in 1865. In -1871, the Column was overturned by the Communards, but set up anew by -the French Government under MacMahon. - -Every mansion on the Place, most of them now commercial hotels or -business-houses, was at one time or another the habitation of noted men -and women, and recalls historic events. The façades of Nos. 9 and 7 are -classed as historic monuments; their preservation cared for by the -State. No. 23 was the scene of Law's speculations after his forced move -from his quarters in the old Rue Quincampoix. At No. 6 Chopin died. - -[Illustration: PLACE ET COLONNE VENDÔME] - -The Rue and Marché St-Honoré are on the site of the ancient convent and -chapel of the Jacobins, suppressed at the Revolution, and where the -famous club des Jacobins was established. The market dates from 1810. -Rue Gomboust dates from the thirteenth century, when it was Rue de la -Corderie St-Honoré. Rue de Ste-Hyacinthe dates from 1650. Rue de la -Sourdière from the seventeenth century shows us many old-time walls and -vestiges and much interesting old ironwork. - -On the wall of the church St-Roch we still see the inscription "Rue -Neuve-St-Roch," the ancient name of the street at its western end. The -street has existed from the close of the fifteenth century bearing -different names in the different parts of its course. The part nearest -the Tuileries was known in the eighteenth century as Rue du Dauphin, in -Revolution days as Rue de la Convention. Many of its houses are ancient -and of curious aspect. - -In Rue d'Argenteuil, leading out of Rue St-Roch, once a country road, -stood until recent years the house where Corneille died. - -Rue des Pyramides dates only from 1806, but No. 2 of the street is noted -as the meeting-place, in the rooms of a friend, of Béranger, Alexandre -Dumas, _père_, Victor Hugo and other famous writers of the day. In the -fourth story of a house in the corner of the Place dwelt Émile Augier. - -From the Place du Théâtre-Français where the fountain has played since -the middle of the nineteenth century, the Avenue de l'Opéra opened out -about 1855 as Avenue Napoléon, cut through a conglomeration of ancient -streets and dwellings. Leading out of the Avenue there still remains in -this arrondissement Rue Molière, known in the seventeenth century as Rue -du Bâton-Royal, then as Rue Traversière, and always intimately -associated with actors and men of letters. Rue Ste-Anne was known in its -early days as Rue du Sang and Rue de la Basse Voirie, then an unsavoury -alley-like thoroughfare. Its present name, after Anne d'Autriche, was -given in 1633. Then for a time it was known as Rue Helvetius, in memory -of a man of letters born there in 1715. Nearly all its houses are -ancient and were the habitation in past days of noted persons, artists -and others. Nos. 43 and 47 were the property of the composer Lulli. The -street runs on into arrondissement II, where at No. 49, hôtel Thévenin, -we see an old statue of John the Baptist holding the Paschal Lamb. At -No. 46 Bossuet lived and died. No. 63 was part of the New Catholic's -convent. Nos. 64, 66, 68, mansions owned by Louvois. - -Rue Thérèse (Marie-Thérèse of Austria) was in 1880 joined on to Rue du -Hazard, a short street so called from a famous gambling-house; No. 6 has -interesting old-time vestiges. At No. 23 we see two inscriptions -honouring the memory of Abbé de l'Epée, inventor of the deaf and dumb -alphabet, who died at a house, no longer there, in Rue des Moulins. Rue -Villedo records the name of a famous master-mason of olden time. Rue -Ventadour existed in its older part in 1640. Rue de Richelieu, starting -from the Place du Théâtre-Français, goes on to arrondissement II in the -vicinity of the Bourse. It dates from the time when the Cardinal was -building his palace. Most of its constructions show interesting -architectural features, vestiges of past days, many have historic -associations. Some of the original houses were rebuilt in the eighteenth -century, some have quite recently been razed and replaced by modern -erections. Much of the fine woodwork once at No. 21 was bought and -carried away by the Marquis de Breteuil; the rest by Americans. In a -house where No. 40 now stands Molière died in 1763. No. 50, hôtel de -Strasbourg, was rebuilt in 1738 by the mother of Madame de Pompadour. In -1780 the musician Grétry lived in the fourth story of No. 52. - -Rue du Louvre is a modern street where ancient streets once ran, -demolished to make way for it. At No. 13 we find traces of a tower of -the city wall of Philippe-Auguste, as also at No. 7 of the adjacent Rue -Coquillère, a thirteenth-century street with, at No. 31, vestiges of an -ancient Carmelite convent. At No. 15 we find ourselves before an arched -entrance and spacious courtyard surrounded by imposing buildings and in -its centre an immense fountain. This structure is a modern re-erection -of the ancient Cour des Fermes; the institution of the "Fermiers -Généraux" was suppressed in 1783 and definitely abolished by law in the -first year of the Revolution--1789. The members, however, continued to -meet; many were arrested and shut up as prisoners in their own old -mansion on this spot, used thenceforth, until the Revolution was over, -as a State prison. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE GREAT MARKETS - - -LES HALLES CENTRALES - -The legend telling us the great Paris Market was first called "les -Alles"--no "H"--because everybody _y allait_, i.e. went there, need not -be taken seriously. Even in remote mediæval times the markets had some -covered premises or "Halles." The earliest Paris market of which we have -record takes us back to the year 1000, that momentous year predicted by -sooth-sayers for the end of the world; few sowings, therefore, had been -made the preceding season. The market stalls of that year were but -scantily furnished. That ancient market lying along the banks of the -Seine in the vicinity of the present Place St-Michel, and its successor -on what was then Place de Grève (_see_ p. 95) went by the curious name -Palu. In ancient days, under Louis-le-Gros, the site of the immense -erection and market-square we see now was known of old as _le terrain -des champeaux_--the territory of little fields--land owned in part by -the King, in part by ecclesiastical authorities, and bought for the -great market in the twelfth century. The sale of herrings, wholesale and -retail, goes on to-day on the very site set apart for fishmongers in the -time of St. Louis. Rue Baltard, running through the centre of the -pavilions, records the name of the architect of the present structure, -which dates from 1856. Rue Antoine-Carême records the name of Napoléon -I's cook. Ancient streets surround us here on every side, old houses, -curious old signs. Rue Berger is made up of several ancient streets -united. The part of Rue Rambuteau bordering les Halles lies along the -line of four thirteenth-century streets known of yore by old-world -names. Rue des Halles, leading up to the Markets from the Rue Rivoli, a -modern thoroughfare (1854), made along the course of ancient streets, -has curious old streets leading into it: Rue des Déchargeurs, a -characteristic name, was opened in 1310. The short Rue du Plat d'Étain -opening out of it dates from 1300, when it was Rue Raoul Tavernier. Rue -de la Ferronnerie, extremely narrow at that period, is noted as the -scene of the assassination of Henri IV in front of a house on the site -of No. 11 (14 May, 1610). From the days of Louis IX the street was, as -its name implies, the resort of ironmongers. Good old ironwork is still -seen on several of the houses. Rue Courtalon (thirteenth century) is -entirely made up of ancient houses. Rue de la Lingerie, formerly Rue des -Gantiers, was a well-built street in the time of Henri II, but most of -the houses seen there now are modern. Rue Prouvaires--from _provoire_, -old French for _prêtres_--thirteenth century, is referred to in the time -of Louis IX as one of the finest streets of Paris. It extended formerly -to the church St-Eustache. Of the old streets once along the course of -the modern Rue du Pont-Neuf all traces have been swept away. - -[Illustration: PORTAIL DE ST-EUSTACHE] - -To the north side of Les Halles, we find Rue Mondétour, dating from -1292, but many of its ancient houses have been razed; modern ones -occupy their site. A dancing-hall in this old street was the -meeting-place of French Protestants before the passing of the Edict of -Nantes. No. 14 has cellars in two stories. - -The church St-Eustache is often familiarly referred to by the market -women as Notre-Dame des Halles. The crypt, once the chapel Ste-Agnes, -the nucleus of the grand old church, dating from 1200, secularized but -still forming one with the sacred building, is a fruiterer's shop--truly -St-Eustache is the church of the Markets. The edifice as it stands dates -as a whole from the seventeenth century. Gothic in its grand lines, very -strikingly impressive, it has a Jesuit frontage, substituted for the -Gothic façade originally planned, and Renaissance ornamentation within. -The church was mercilessly truncated in the eighteenth century to allow -for the making and widening of surrounding streets. - -Rue du Jour under other names has existed from the early years of the -thirteenth century, but was then close up against the city wall of -Philippe-Auguste. Nos. 3, 4, 5, 7, 11 are ancient, and No. 25, with its -traces of bygone ages, is believed to be on the site of the house where -Charles V made from time to time a _séjour_, hence the name, truncated, -of the street. - -Rue Vauvilliers, until 1864 Rue du Four St-Honoré, dates from the -thirteenth century. Here, at No. 33, lodged young Buonaparte, the future -Emperor, at the ancient hôtel de Cherbourg, in 1787. To-day it is a -butcher's shop. Several of the houses have curious signs and other -vestiges of past days. The circular colonnaded street we come to now, -Rue de Viarmes, was built in 1768 by the Prévôt des Marchands whose name -it bears. It surrounds the Bourse de Commerce built in 1889 on the site -of the Halles aux Blés erected in the first instance in 1767, twice -burnt to the ground and twice subsequently rebuilt on the site of the -famous hôtel de Nesle where la Reine Blanche, mother of St. Louis, is -said to have died in 1252. L'hôtel de Nesle was inhabited later by the -blind King of Bohemia, killed at Crécy, and subsequently by other -persons of note, then was taken to form part of the Couvent des Filles -Pénitentes, appropriated with several adjoining hôtels in after years by -Catherine de' Medici (_see_ p. 9). After the Queen's death, as the -possession of the comte de Bourbon, it was known as l'hôtel de Soissons; -in 1749 it was razed to the ground. One ancient pillar, la Colonne de -l'Horoscope, with its interior flight of steps still stands. - -Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, in the days when its upper part was the -ancient Rue Platrière, the lower Rue Grenelle-St-Honoré, counted among -its inhabitants Rousseau, Bossuet, Marat, Fragonard, Boucher, the -duchesse de Valentinois, and other noted personages. Most of the ancient -dwellings have been replaced by modern constructions. Where the General -Post Office now stands, extending down Rue du Louvre, the comte de -Flandre had a fine mansion in the thirteenth century. Destroyed in 1543, -it was replaced by another fine hôtel, which became the Paris post -office in 1757, rebuilt in 1880. We see interesting architectural traces -of past days at Nos. 15, 18, 19, 20, 33, 56, 64, 68. This brings us to -Rue Étienne-Marcel, its name recalling the stirring and tragic history -of the Prévôt de Paris at the time of the Jacquerie-Marcel, in revolt -against the Dauphin; Charles V had the two great nobles, Jean de -Conflans and Robert de Clermont, killed in the King's presence, and was -himself struck down dead when on the point of giving Paris over to -Charles-le-Mauvais in 1358. But the name only is ancient, the street is -entirely modern, cut across the line where ancient streets once ran. -Some few old-time vestiges remain here and there, notably the Tour de -Jean Sans Peur at No. 20, all that is left of the hôtel de Bourgoyne, -built in the thirteenth century, to which the tower was added in 1405; -it was partially destroyed in the sixteenth century, while what still -stood became a theatre, the chief Paris play-house, the cradle of the -Comédie Française. - -Rue Montmartre, crossing Rue Étienne-Marcel and going on into the -arrondissement II, dates at this end--its commencement--from the close -of the eleventh century. In Revolution days it was known as Rue -Mont-Marat! As long as Paris had fortified boundary walls there was -always a Porte Montmartre, moved northward three times, as the city -bounds extended. The Porte of Philippe-Auguste was where the house No. -30 now stands, and this part of the street was known then as Rue -Porte-Montmartre. The Passage de la Reine de Hongrie memorizes a certain -_dame de la Halle_ in whom Marie-Antoinette saw a remarkable likeness to -her mother, the Queen of Hungary. The woman became for her generation -"la Reine de Hongrie"--the alley where she dwelt was called by this -name. She shared not only the title but the fate of royalty: was -beheaded by the guillotine. - -Rue Montorgueil, beginning here and leading to the higher ground called -when the Romans ruled in Gaul "Mons Superbus," now the levelled -boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle and its surrounding streets, was known in the -thirteenth century as Mont Orgueilleux. In bygone days, the Parisians -strolled out to the Mont Orgueilleux to eat oysters. There was a famous -oyster-bed on the site of the house now razed where, in 1780, was born -that exquisite song and ballad writer, Béranger. The ancient house, No. -32, is said to have been the home of the architect, Jean Goujon. The -little side-street Rue Mauconseil dates from 1250, and tradition says -its name is due to the _mauvais conseil_ given within the walls of the -hôtel de Bourgoyne, close by, which led to the assassination of the duc -d'Orléans by Jean Sans Peur. In Revolution days, therefore, it was -promptly renamed for the nonce Rue du Bon Conseil! At No. 48 we find a -famous tripe-eating house. No. 47 was once the Central Sedan Chair -Office. At No. 51 we see interesting signs over the door, and painted -panels signed by Paul Baudry within (1864). Nos. 64, 72 is the old -sixteenth-century inn, the "Compas d'Or," and the famous restaurant -Philippe. The coachyard of the inn is little changed from the days when -coaches plied between that starting-place and Dreux. The restaurant du -Rocher de Cancale, at No. 78, dating from 1820, where the most -celebrated men of letters and art of the nineteenth century met and -dined, was at first "Le Petit Rocher," then the successor of the ancient -restaurant at No. 59 dating from the eighteenth century, where the -_dîners du Caveau_ and the _dîners du Vaudeville_ were eaten by gay -literary and artistic _dîneurs_ of olden time. - -Rue Turbigo is modern and makes us think regretfully of ancient streets -and of the apse of the church St-Elisabeth demolished to make way for -it. Turning down Rue St-Denis, the famous "Grande Chaussée de Monsieur -St-Denis" of ancient days, the road along which legend tells us the -saint, coming from the heights above, walked carrying his head after -decapitation, we find it, from this point to the vicinity of the -Châtelet, rich in historic buildings and vestiges of a past age. Kings -on their way to Notre-Dame entered Paris in state along this old road; -it was connected more or less closely with every political event of -bygone times, with Parisian pleasures too, for there of old the mystery -plays went on. Curious old streets and passages open out of it: at 279 -the quaint Rue Ste-Foy. In the court of No. 222 we see the hôtel St. -Chaumont, its façade on boulevard Sebastopol, dating from 1630. - -The church we come to at No. 92 dedicated to St. Leu and St. Gilles was -built in the early years of the thirteenth century on the site of an -earlier church, a dependent of the Abbaye St-Magloire close by, -suppressed at the Revolution. Subsequent restorations, and the building -in the eighteenth century of a subterranean chapel for the knights of -the Holy Sépulcre, have resulted in an interesting old church of mingled -Gothic and Renaissance style; its apse was lopped off to make way for -the modern boulevard Sébastopol. The would-be assassin Cadoudal hid for -three days crouched up against the figure of Christ in the chapel -beneath the chancel (1804). Rue des Lombards dates from the thirteenth -century, and at one or two of its houses, notably No. 62, we find an -underground hall with vaulted roof and Gothic windows. At No. 56 we see -an open corner. It is "ground accurst." The house of two Protestant -merchants who in 1579 were put to death for their "evil practices!" once -stood there. Their dwelling was razed and a pyramid and crucifix were -set up on the spot, soon afterwards removed to the cemetery des -Innocents hard by. - -The chemist's shop at No. 44, "Au Mortier d'Or," united now to its -neighbour "A la Barbe d'Or," dates, as regards its foundation, from the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. In the window we see an open volume -printed in 1595 with the engraved portrait of the founder. - -Rue des Innocents was opened in 1786 across the site of the graveyard of -the church des Saints-Innocents, founded in 1150 and which stood till -1790. More than a million bodies are said to have been buried in that -churchyard. In 1780 the cemetery was turned into a market-place. But it -was again used as a burial ground for victims of the Revolution of 1830. -Their bones lie now beneath the Colonne de Juillet on the Place de la -Bastille. The market-place became a square: "Le Square des Innocents." -The fine old fountain dating from 1550, the work of the famous sculptors -Pierre Lescot and Jean Goujon, was taken from its site in the Rue -St-Denis, restored by the best sculptors of the day, and set up there in -1850. The beautiful portal of the ancient bureau des Marchandes-lingères -was placed there in more recent times. The ground floor of most of the -old houses of this street are ancient _charniers_, many of them built by -one Nicolas Flamel. Therein were laid in past days the bones -periodically gathered from the graveyard. The name "Cabaret du Caveau" -at No. 15 tells its own tale. In Rue Berger, formed along the line of -several demolished streets of old, we see some ancient signs, but little -else of interest. Old signs too, in Rue de la Cossonnerie, so named from -the _cossonniers_, i.e. poultry-merchants, whose market was here and -which was known as early as 1182 as Via Cochonerie. Rue des Prêcheurs is -another twelfth-century street and there we see many ancient houses: -Nos. 6-8, etc. Rue Pirouette, one of the most ancient of Paris streets, -recalls the days of the _pilori des Halles_, when its victims, forced to -turn from side to side, made _la pirouette_. Here the duc d'Angoulême -had his head cut off under Louis XI, and the duc de Nemours in 1477. At -No. 5 we see the ancient doorway of the demolished hôtellerie du Haume -(fourteenth century), at No. 9 was the cabaret de l'Ange Gabriel (now -razed), at No. 13 vestiges of an ancient mansion. A few old houses still -stand in the Rue de la Grande Truanderie (thirteenth century). Rue de la -Petite Truanderie, of the same date, was once noted for its old well, -"le Puits d'Amour," in the small square half-way down the street, of old -the _truands'_ quarter (_see_ p. 56). - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -THE PALAIS DE JUSTICE - - -The history of Paris and of France, from the earliest days of their -story, is connected with the Palais de Justice on the western point of -the island on the Seine. The palace stands on the site of the habitation -of the rulers of Lutetia in the days of the Romans, of the first -Merovingian and of the first Capetian kings. The present building, often -reconstructed, restored, enlarged, dates in its foundations and some -other parts from the time of Robert le Pieux. King Robert built the -Conciergerie. Under Louis IX the palace was again considerably enlarged; -the kitchens of St. Louis are an interesting feature in the palace as we -know it. In 1434, Charles VII gave up the palace to the Parliament. It -met in the great hall above St. Louis' kitchens, and round an immense -table there law tribunals assembled. For the French Parliament of those -times was in some sort a great law-court. Guizot describes it as: "la -cour souveraine du roi, la cour suprême du royaume." Known in its -earliest days as "Le Conseil du Roi," its members were the grandees of -the kingdom: vassals, prelates, officers of State, and it was supposed -to follow the King wherever he went, though as a matter of fact it -rarely moved from Paris. When, in course of time, it was considered -desirable that its members should all be able not only to read but to -write, the great nobles of that age declared they were not going to -change their swords for a writing-desk and many withdrew, to be replaced -by men of lesser rank but greater skill in other directions than that of -arms, and who came to be regarded as the _noblesse de la robe_--distinct -from _la noblesse de l'épee_. - -[Illustration: LA TOUR DE L'HORLOGE, LES "TOURS POINTUES" DE LA -CONCIERGERIE ET LE MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS] - -The big hall of that day and other adjacent halls and passages were -burnt down more than once in olden times, and burnt down again in 1871, -when the Communards wrought havoc on so many fine old buildings of their -city. The most thrilling incidents, the most stirring events in the -history of the Nation had some point of connection with that ancient -palace--often a culminating point. And within those grim walls where the -destinies of men and women of all conditions and ranks were determined, -where tragedy held its own, scenes in lighter vein were not unknown in -ancient days. Mystery plays were often given there, and every year in -the month of May, reputed a "merry month," even in the Palais de -Justice, the company of men of law known as the "basoche," planted a -May-tree in the courtyard before the great entrance doors--hence the -name "la Cour de Mai." It is a tragic courtyard despite its name, for -the Conciergerie prison opened into it; through the door of what is now -the Buvette du Palais--a refreshment-room--men and women condemned to -death passed, in Revolution days, while other men and women, women -chiefly, crowded on the broad steps above to see the laden _charrettes_ -start off for the place of execution. - -[Illustration: LA SAINTE-CHAPELLE] - -The Sainte-Chapelle, that wondrous piece of purest Gothic architecture, -the work of Pierre de Montereau (1245-48) built for the preservation of -sacred relics brought by Louis IX on his return from the Holy Land, -vividly recalls the days when the palace was a royal habitation. Its -upper story was in direct communication with the royal dwelling-rooms; -the lower story was for the palace servants and officials. During the -Revolution the chapel was devastated and used as a club and a -flour-store. The Chambre des Comptes, a beautiful old building in the -courtyard of the Sainte-Chapelle, was destroyed by fire in 1737. Its big -arch was saved and forms part of the Musée Carnavalet (_see_ p. 81). A -chief feature of the _chapelle_ is its exquisite stained glass. - -The enlarging of the Palais in recent times (1908) swept away -surrounding relics of bygone ages. Some vestiges of past days still -remain in Rue de Harlay opposite the Palais, to the west--Nos. 20, 54, -52, 68, 74. The buildings of the boulevard du Palais and Rue de Lutèce, -on its eastern side, arrondissement IV, are all modern on ancient -historic sites. - -Place Dauphine dates from 1607. It was built as a triangular _place_, -its name referring to the son of Henri IV. In earlier ages, the site -formed two islets, on one of which, l'îlot des Juifs, Jacques de Morlay, -Grand Master of the Templars, suffered death by burning in 1314. A -fountain stood on the Place to the memory of General Desaix, erected by -public subscription, carted away in the time of the first Republic, and -set up at Riom. Painters excluded from the Salon used to exhibit their -work here each year, in the open air, on Corpus Christi day. Some of the -houses still show seventeenth-and eighteenth-century vestiges. No. 28, -now much restored, was Madame Roland's early home. The writer Halévy -died at 26 (1908). - -The Quays of the island bordering the Palais north and south both date -from the sixteenth century. Both have been curtailed by the enlargement -of the Palais. On Quai des Orfèvres, the goldsmith's quay, from the -first the jewellers' quarter, still stands the shop once owned by the -jewellers implicated in the affair of the "_Collier de la Reine_." The -Quai de l'Horloge is still the optician's quarter and was known in olden -days as Quai des Morfondus, on account of the blasting winds which swept -along it--and do so still in winter-time. The palace clock in the fine -old tower built in the thirteenth century, restored after the ravages of -the Revolution in the nineteenth, from which the quay takes its present -name, is a successor of the first clock seen in France, set up there -about the year 1370. There, too, hung in olden days a great bell rung as -a signal on official occasions, and which perhaps rang out the -death-knell of the Huguenots even before the sounding of the bell at -St-Germain l'Auxerrois, on the eve of St. Bartholomew's Day, 1572. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE - - -ARRONDISSEMENT II. (BOURSE) - -Rue des Petits-Champs marks the boundary between the arrondissements I -and II--the odd numbers in arrondissement I, the even ones in -arrondissement II. The street was opened in 1634. Many of its old houses -still stand and show us, without and within, some interesting -architectural features of past days. The hôtel Tubeuf, No. 8, destined -with adjoining mansions to become the Bibliothèque Nationale, was, -tradition tells us, staked at the gambling table and won by the -statesman Mazarin. The Cardinal bought two adjoining _hôtels_ and -surrounding land as far as the Rue Colbert and built thereon his own -fine mansion, using the two _hôtels_ as wings. The first books placed -there were those of his own library, a fine collection, taken at his -death, according to the directions of his will, to the Collège des -Quatre Nations, known to-day as the Institut Mazarin. The Cardinal's -vast mansion was divided among his heirs and in its different parts was -put to various uses during following years till, in 1721, it was bought -by the Crown. The King's library was then taken there from Rue Vivienne, -where it had been placed in 1666, and soon afterwards opened to the -public. The greater part of the building has been reconstructed in -modern times and enlarged. The blackened walls of a part of Mazarin's -mansion, that formed l'hôtel de Nivers, still stand at the corner of Rue -Colbert. The chief entrance to the Library is in Rue de Richelieu. -Engravings, medals, works of art of many descriptions connected with -letters may be seen at what has been successively Bibliothèque Royale, -Bibliothèque Impériale and is now Bibliothèque Nationale. The ceiling of -the Galerie Mazarin is covered with splendid frescoes by Romanelli. The -heart of Voltaire is said to be encased in the statue we see there. -Madame de Récamier died at the Library in 1849; she had taken refuge -there in the rooms of her niece, whose husband was one of the officials -when the cholera broke out in l'Abbaye-aux-Bois. Opposite the Library, -on the Rue Richelieu side, is the Square Louvois dating from 1839, on -the site of two old _hôtels_ once there. There, in 1793, Citoyenne -Montansier set up a theatre, known successively as Théâtre des Arts, -Théâtre de la Loi and the Opéra. - -After the assassination of the duc de Berri in front of No. 3 Rue du -Rameau (February 13, 1820) as he was about to re-enter the Opera-House, -Louis XVIII intended to build there a _chapelle expiatoire_. The -Revolution of 1830 put an end to that project. The big poplar-tree, seen -until recent years overlooking Rue Rameau, was planted as a tree of -Liberty in 1848. It suddenly died in 1912. The fountain is the work of -Visconti and Klagman (1844). In Rue Chabanais (1777) at No. 11, -Pichegru, betrayed by Leblanc, was arrested (1804). Proceeding down Rue -de Richelieu we see grand old mansions throughout its entire length. No. -71 formed part of the hôtel Louvois, given some four years before her -tragic death to princesse de Lamballe who built roomy stables there. On -the site of No. 62, quite recently demolished, was the hôtel de Talaru, -built in 1652, which became one of the most noted prisons of the -Terreur, and where its owner, the marquis de Talaru, was himself -imprisoned. No. 75 was l'hôtel de Louis de Mornay, one of the most noted -lovers of Ninon de Lenclos. No. 78, in the past a famous lace-shop, was -owned by the East India Company. No. 93, once the immense hôtel Crozet, -property of the ducs de Choiseul, cut through in 1780 by the making of -two neighbouring streets, was inhabited in 1715 by Watteau. No. 102 -stands on the site of a house owned by Voltaire, inhabited at one time -by his niece. No. 104, at first a private mansion, became successively -Taverne Britannique (1845-52), Restaurant Richelieu, Union Club du -Billard et du Sport. No. 101 was at one time the restaurant du Grand U, -so called in 1883 from an article in "Le National" apropos of the _Union -Republicaine_. - -Leading out of Rue Richelieu, in the vicinity of the Bibliothèque -Nationale, we see old houses in Rue St-Augustin, and Rue des Filles de -St-Thomas, the latter cut short in more recent days by the Place de la -Bourse and the Rue du Quatre-Septembre. The busts on No. 7 of the latter -street recall a theatrical costume store of past days. No. 21 Rue -Feydeau was the site of the Théâtre des Nouveautés, which became the -Opéra-Comique, demolished in 1830. Rue des Colonnes was in former days -closed at each end by gates. At No. 14 Rue St-Marc, Ernest Logouvé was -born, lived, died (1807-1903). La Malibran was born at No. 31. - -The Bourse stands on the site of the convent of les Filles St-Thomas. -Its cellars still exist beneath what was before 1914 the Restaurant -Champeaux, Rue du 4 Septembre. The chapel stood till 1802 and was during -the Revolution the meeting-place of the reactionary section Le Peletier; -the insurgent troops defeated by Buonaparte on the steps of St-Roch had -assembled there (1795) (_see_ p. 20). - -The first stone of the present Bourse was laid in 1808. The building was -enlarged in the early years of this century. The Paris Exchange -stockbrokers had in early times met at the Pont-au-Change; during the -Revolution they gathered in the chapelle des Petits-Pères; later at the -Palais-Royal. - -The fine old door of the hôtel Montmorency-Luxembourg still stands at -the entrance to the Passage des Panoramas, leading to the old galleries: -Galerie Montmartre and Galerie des Variétés--opening out on Rue -Montmartre and Rue Vivienne. Until after the Revolution there were no -shops in Rue Vivienne, so full to-day of shops and business houses. It -records the name of a certain sire Vivien, King's secretary, owner of a -_hôtel_ in the newly opened thoroughfare. Thierry lived there in 1834, -Alphonse Karr in 1835. The great gates of the Bibliothèque Nationale on -this side are those which in bygone days closed the Place-Royale, now -Place des Vosges. No. 49 is the most ancient Frascati Dining Saloon with -the old ballroom candelabras. Many of the houses have interesting -old-time vestiges. - -Rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires was until after 1633 le "Chemin-Herbu," the -grass-grown road; Nos. 30, 28, 14, 13, 10, 4, 2 are ancient: other old -houses have been demolished. The Place-des-Victoires from which it -starts was the site of the fine hôtel de Pomponne, which later served as -the Banque de France. Most of the houses are ancient with interesting -architectural features. - -Place des Petits-Pères close by is best known for the church there, -Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, a name given to record the taking of La -Rochelle from the Protestants in 1627. Its first stone was laid by Louis -XIII in 1629, but the church was not finished till more than a century -later. It was for long the convent chapel of the Augustins Déchaussés, -commonly known as the Petits-Pères, from the remarkably short stature of -the two monks, its founders. The Lady-chapel is a place of special -pilgrimage and is brimful of votive offerings. The church is never -empty. Passers-by rarely fail to go in to say a prayer, or spend a quiet -moment there; work-girls from the shops and offices and workrooms of the -neighbourhood go there in their dinner-hour for rest and shelter from -the streets. Services of thanksgiving after victory are naturally a -special feature there. The choir has fine pictures by Van Loo. Rue des -Petits-Pères dates from 1615 and shows interesting traces of past ages. -Rue d'Aboukir lies along the line of three seventeenth-century streets, -in one of which Buonaparte lived for a time. Many old houses still stand -there; others of historical association have been demolished, modern -buildings erected on their site. Half-way down the street is Place du -Caire, once the site of that most truly Parisian industry: carding and -mattress-making and cleaning. French mattresses are, in normal times, -turned inside out, cleaned or refilled very frequently. - -A hospital and a convent stretched along part of the _place_ and across -Passage du Caire in past days. Several houses there are ancient, as also -in Rue Alexandrie. - -In Rue du Mail, at what is now hôtel de Metz, Buonaparte lodged in 1790. -We see many old houses. Spontini lived here, and No. 12 was inhabited by -Madame Récamier and also by Talma. The modern Rue du Quatre-Septembre -has swept away many an interesting old thoroughfare. At No. 100 the -Passage de la Cour des Miracles recalls the ancient _cour_ of the name, -done away with in 1656, of which some traces still remain--the scene in -olden days of feats of apparent healing and of physical transformation -whereby the _truands_, persons of no avowed or avowable occupation, -gained precarious _deniers_. Out of this long modern street we may turn -into many shorter ancient ones. Rue du Sentier, recalling by its name a -pathway through a wood--_sentier_, a corruption of _chantier_--has fine -old houses and knew in its time many inhabitants of mark. At No. 8 lived -Monsieur Lebrun, a famous picture dealer, husband of Madame Vigée -Lebrun. At No. 2 dwelt Madame de Staël, at Nos. 22-24, in rooms erewhile -decorated by Fragonard, Le Normand d'Étioles, husband of La Pompadour, -after his separation from her. No. 33 was the home of his wife in her -girlhood and at the time of her marriage. At No. 30 lived Sophie Gay. - -Rue St-Joseph, so named from a seventeenth-century chapel knocked down -in 1800, of which we find some traces, was previously Rue du -Temps-Perdu; in the graveyard attached to St-Eustache--later a -market--La Fontaine and Molière were buried, their ashes transferred in -1818 to Père-Lachaise. At No. 10 Zola was born (1840). Rue du Croissant -(seventeenth century) is a street of ancient houses and the chief -newspaper street of the city. Paper hawkers crowd there at certain -hours each day, then rush away, vying with one another to call attention -to their stock-in-trade. At No. 22, Café du Croissant, at the corner -where this street meets the Rue Montmartre, journalists assemble, and -there the notable Socialist, Jaurès, was shot dead on the eve of the -outbreak of war, July 31st, 1914. The sign at No. 18 is said to date -from 1612. In Rue des Jeûneurs (1643)--the name a corruption from _des -Jeux-Neufs_--we see more ancient houses and leading out of it the old -Rue St-Fiacre, once Rue du Figuier. No. 19 was inhabited in recent years -by a lady left a widow after one year's married life, who, owner of the -building, dismissed the tenants of its six large flats and shut herself -up in absolute solitude till her death at the age of eighty-nine. No. 23 -was designed by Soufflot le Romain (1775). Rue Montmartre in its course -continued from arrondissement I, which it leaves at Rue Étienne-Marcel, -shows many interesting vestiges. At No. 178 we see a bas-relief of the -Porte Montmartre of past days. Within the modern _Brasserie du Coq_, a -copy of the automatic cock of Strasbourg Cathedral, dating from 1352. On -the frontage of No. 121 a curious set of bells, and a quaint sign, "A la -grâce de Dieu," dating from 1710. No. 118 was known in past days as the -house of clocks. Thirty-two were seen on its frontage, the work of a -Swiss clockmaker. Going up this old street in order to visit the streets -leading out of it, we turn into Rue Tiquetonne, which recalls by its -aspect fourteenth-century times, by its name a prosperous baker of that -century, a certain M. Rogier de Quinquentonne. Among the ancient houses -there, Nos. 4 and 2 have very deep cellars stretching beneath the -street. In Rue Dussoubs, which under other names dates back to the -fifteenth century, we see more quaint houses. At No. 26 Goldoni died. -The short street Marie-Stuart recalls the days when for one brief year -the beautiful Scotswoman was Queen Consort of France. The name of Rue -Jussienne is a corruption of Marie l'Égyptienne, patron saint of a -fourteenth-century chapel which stood there till 1791. At No. 2 lived -Madame Dubarry after the death of Louis XV. Rue d'Argout dates as Rue -des Vieux-Augustins from the thirteenth century. Here, at No. 28, lived -in more modern times, Savalette de Langes, supposed for many years and -proved at her death to be a man. In Passage du Vigan at No. 22, we find -bas-reliefs in a courtyard. At No. 56, a small ancient _hôtel_. - -Rue Bachaumont is on the site of the vanished Passage du Saumur, a -milliner's quarter, the most ancient of Paris passages, demolished in -1899. Rue d'Uzès crosses the site of the ancient hôtel d'Uzès. Rue de -Cléry was till 1634 an ancient roadway. Madame de Pompadour was born -here. Pierre Corneille and Casanava, the painter, lived here; and, where -the street meets Rue Beauregard, Baron Batz made his frantic attempt to -save Louis XVI on his way to the scaffold. No. 97, now a humble shop -with the sign "Au poète de 1793," was the home of André Chenier. Nos. -21-19 belonged to Robert Poquelin, the priest-brother of Molière, later -to Pierre Lebrun, where in pre-Revolution days theatrical performances -were given, and the Mass said secretly during the Terror. Leading out of -Rue Cléry, we find Rue des Degrés, six mètres in length, the smallest -street in Paris, a mere flight of steps. - -Rue St-Sauveur (thirteenth century) memorizes the church once there. -From end to end we see ancient houses, fine old balconies, curious -signs, architectural features of interest. In Rue des Petits-Carreaux, -running on from this end of Rue Montorgueil (_see_ p. 40) we see at No. -16 the house where, till recent days, musicians assembled for hire each -Sunday. Now they meet at the Café de la Chartreuse, 24, Boulevard -St-Denis. In a house in a court where the house No. 26 now stands, lived -Jean Dubarry. Rue Poissonnière, "Fishwives Street," once "Champ des -Femmes" (thirteenth century), shows us many ancient houses. - -Rue Beauregard was so named in honour of the fine view Parisians had of -old after mounting Rue Montorgueil. The notorious sorceress, Catherine -Monvoisin--"la Voisin"--implicated in a thousand crimes, built for -herself a luxurious habitation on this eminence--somewhat higher in -those days than in later years. We find several ancient houses along -this old street, notably No. 46. We see ancient houses also in Rue de la -Lune (1630). No. 1 is a shop still famed for its _brioches du soleil_. -Between these two streets stretched in olden days the graveyard of -Notre-Dame de Bonne-Nouvelle, a church built in 1624 on the site of the -ancient chapel Ste-Barbe. The name is said to refer to a piece of good -news told to Anne d'Autriche one day as she passed that way. The tower -only of the seventeenth-century church remains; the rest was rebuilt in -1823. Four short streets of ancient date cross Rue de la Lune: Rue -Notre-Dame de Bonne-Nouvelle (eighteenth century), Rue Thorel (sixteenth -century), the old Rue Ste-Barbe, Rue de la Ville-Neuve, Rue Notre-Dame -de la Recouvrance--with old houses of interest in each. At No. 8 Rue de -la Ville-Neuve we see _médaillons_ of Jean Goujon and Philibert -Delorme. - -Surrounded by old streets, just off the boulevard des Italiens, is the -Opéra-Comique, originally a Salle de Spectacles, built on the park-lands -of their fine mansion by the duke and duchess de Choiseul, who reserved -for themselves and their heirs for ever the right to a _loge_ of eight -seats next to the royal box. Its name, at first, Salle Favart, has -changed many times. Burnt down twice, in 1838 and 1887, the present -building dates only from 1898. Rue Favart, named after the -eighteenth-century actor, has always been inhabited by actors and -actresses. Rue de Grammont dates from 1726, built across the site of the -fine old hôtel de Grammont. Rue de Choiseul, alongside the recently -erected Crédit Lyonnais, which has replaced several ancient mansions, -recalls the existence of another hôtel de Choiseul. At No. 21 we find -curious old attics. Passing through the short Rue de Hanovre, we find in -Rue de la Michodière, opened in 1778, on the grounds of hôtel Conti, the -house (No. 8) where Gericault, the painter, lived in 1808, and at No. -19, the home of Casabianca, member of the Convention where Buonaparte, -at one time, lodged. At No. 3, Rue d'Antin, then a private mansion, -Buonaparte married Joséphine (9 March, 1796). Though serving as a -banker's office, the room where the marriage took place is kept exactly -as it then was. In a house in Rue Louis-le-Grand, opened in 1701, known -in Revolution days as Rue des Piques, Sophie Arnould was born. Rue -Daunou, where at No. 1 we see an ancient escutcheon, leads us into the -Rue de la Paix, opened in 1806 on the site of the ancient convent of the -Capucines and called at first Rue Napoléon. All its fine houses are -modern, as are also those of Rue Volney and Rue des Capucines, on the -even number side. In the latter street, formed in the year 1700, the -Crédit Foncier is the old hôtel de Castanier, director of the East India -Company (1726), and the hôtel Devieux of the same date. Nos. 11, 9, 7, 5 -(fine vestiges at No. 5) were the stables of the duchesse d'Orléans in -1730. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -ROUND ABOUT THE ARTS ET MÉTIERS (THE ARTS AND CRAFTS INSTITUTION) - - -ARRONDISSEMENT III. (TEMPLE) - -A long stretch of the busy boulevard Sébastopol forms the boundary -between arrondissements II and III. Several short old streets run -between the Boulevard and Rue St-Martin. Rue Apolline (eighteenth -century), Rue Blondel, Rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, where curiously -enough is a Jewish synagogue, show us some ancient houses. The latter, -in the fifteenth century a roadway, in the seventeenth century a street -along the course of a big drain, memorizes the convent once there. We -find vestiges of an ancient _hôtel_ at No. 6, and close by old passages: -Passage du Vertbois, Passage des Quatre-Voleurs, Passage du -Pont-aux-Biches. In Rue Papin we find the théâtre de la Gaîté, first set -up at the Fair St-Laurent in the seventeenth century, here since 1861, -when it was known as théâtre du Prince Impérial. Crossing Rue Turbigo, -we reach Rue Bourg l'Abbé, reminding us of a very ancient street of the -name swept away by the boulevard Sébastopol, and Rue aux Ours, dating -from 1300, originally Rue aux Oies, referring maybe to geese roasted for -the table when this was a street of turnspits. On the odd number side -some ancient houses still stand. Rue Quincampoix, beginning far down in -the 4th arrondissement, runs to its end into Rue aux Ours. It is -through its whole course a street of old-time associations. In this bit -of it we find interesting old houses, arched doorways, sculptured doors, -etc., at Nos. 111, 99, 98, 96, 92, 91, 90. At No. 91 the watchman's bell -rang to bid the crowds disperse that pressed tumultuously round the -offices of the great financier Law, who first set up his bank at the -hôtel de Beaufort, on the site of the house No. 65. The Salle Molière -was at No. 82, through the Passage Molière, dating from Revolution days, -when it was known as Passage des Nourrices. The Salle began as the -théâtre des Sans-Culottes, to become later the théâtre École. There -Rachel made her debut. Many traces of the old theatre are still seen. - -[Illustration: RUE QUINCAMPOIX] - -The old Roman road Rue St-Martin coming northward through the 4th -arrondissement enters the 3rd from Rue Rambuteau. Along its entire -course it is rich in old-world vestiges: ancient mansions, old signs, -venerable sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc. In the Passage de l'Ancre, -opening at No. 223, the first office for cab-hiring was opened in 1637. -At No. 254 we come to the old church St-Nicolas-des-Champs, originally a -chapel in the fields forming part of the abbey lands of -St-Martin-des-Champs, subsequently the parish church of the district, -rebuilt at the beginning of the fifteenth century, enlarged towards the -end of the sixteenth century--a beautiful edifice in Gothic style of two -different periods and known as the church of a hundred columns. The -sacristy, once the presbytery, and a sundial dating from 1666, front the -old Rue Cunin-Gridaine. Crossing Rue Réaumur, we reach the fine old -abbey buildings which since the Revolution have served as the Paris Arts -and Crafts Institution. The Abbey was built on the spot beyond the Paris -boundary where St. Martin, on his way to the city, is said to have -healed a leper. The invading Normans knocked it down; it was rebuilt in -1056 and the Abbey grounds surrounded a few years afterwards by high -walls, rebuilt later as strong fortifications with eighteen turrets. -Part of those walls and a restored tower are seen at No. 7 Rue Bailly. -Within the walls were the Abbey chapel, long, beautiful cloisters, a -prison, a market, etc. In the fourteenth century the Abbey was included -within the city bounds and the monks held their own till 1790. In 1798, -the disaffected Abbey buildings were chosen wherein to place the models -collected by Vaucanson--pioneer of machinists; other collections were -added and in the century following various changes and additions made in -the old Abbey structure. - -[Illustration: ST-NICOLAS-DES-CHAMPS] - -The big door giving on Rue St-Martin dates only from 1850. The great -flight of steps in the court, built first in 1786, was remodelled and -modernized in 1860. The ancient cloisters, remodelled, have been for -years past the scene of busy mechanical and industrial study. The -ancient and beautiful refectory, the work of Pierre de Montereau, -architect of the Sainte-Chapelle (_see_ p. 48) has become the Library. -Beneath the fine vaulted roof, amid tall, slender columns of exquisite -workmanship, students read where monks of old took their meals. The old -Abbey chapel (twelfth and thirteenth centuries) restored in the -nineteenth century, serves as the depot for models of steam-engines, -etc. A small Gothic chapel is in the hands of a gas company. Other -venerable portions of the Abbey, fallen into ruin, have quite recently -been removed. - -Rue Vertbois, on the northern side of the institution, records the -existence of a leafy wood in the old Abbey grounds. The tower dates from -1140, the fountain from 1712; both were restored at the end of the -nineteenth century. Going on up this old street we find numerous traces -of what were erewhile the Abbey precincts. - -Porte St-Martin at the angle where the _rue_ meets the _boulevard_ is -that last of three great _portes_ moving northward, and each in its time -marking the city boundary. - -Rue Meslay, opening out of Rue St-Martin at this point, dates from the -first years of the eighteenth century, when it was Rue du Rempart. No. -49 was the home of the last Commandant du Guet. At No. 46 Aurore Dupin, -known as George Sand, the famous novelist, was born in 1804. At No. 40 -we see the fine old _hôtel_, with a fountain in the court, where in -eighteenth-century days dwelt the Commandant de la Garde de Paris, the -_garde_ having replaced the _guet_ (the Watch) in 1771. - -[Illustration: RUE BEAUBOURG] - -Rue Beaubourg, stretching from Rue Rambuteau to Rue Turbigo, and the -streets and passages leading out of it, show us many traces of bygone -times. At No. 28 we find subterranean halls, with hooks where iron -chains were once held fast--for this was an ancient prison--and a salon -Louis XVI, with traces of ancient frescoes and sculpture. The city wall -of Philippe-Auguste passed where the house No. 39 now stands. At No. 62, -opposite which stretched the graveyard of St-Nicolas-des-Champs, was the -palace of the bishops of Châlons, taken later to form part of a -Carmelite convent suppressed in 1793. In a later revolutionary -period--when Louis-Philippe was on the throne of France--the Paris -insurrections centred here and horrible scenes took place on this -spot[B]. - -In Rue au Maire, a secular official, mayor or bailiff of the Abbey, had -his seat of office. In the Passage des Marmites (Saucepan Street) dwelt -none but _chaudronniers_ (coppersmiths and tinkers). We see ancient -houses all along Rue Volta, and Rue des Vertus, so called by derision, -having been the Rue des Vices, is made up of quaint old houses. Most of -the houses, rather sordid, in Rue des Gravilliers, are ancient. No. 44 -is said to have been the meeting-place of the secret Society -"l'Internationale" in the time of Napoléon III. At Nos. 69 and 70 we see -traces of the _hôtel_ built by the grandfather of Gabrielle d'Estrées. -At No. 88 the accomplices of Cadoudal, of the infernal machine -conspiracy, were arrested. - -Rue Chapon, formerly Capon, is named from the Capo, i.e. the cape worn -by the Jews who in thirteenth-century days were its chief inhabitants. -Its western end, known till 1851 as Rue du Cimetière St-Nicolas-des-Champs, -shows many vestiges of past time. No. 16 was the _hôtel_ of Madame de -Mandeville, at first a nun-novice, to become in the time of Louis XV -a celebrated courtesan. No. 13 was the _hôtel_ of the archbishops of -Reims, then of the bishops of Châlons, ceded in 1619 to the Carmelites. -A big door and other interesting vestiges remain. - -Rue de Montmorency is named from the fine old _hôtel_ at No. 5, where -the Montmorency lived from 1215 to 1627, when the last descendant of the -famous Constable Mathieu perished on the scaffold. The street is rich -in historic houses, historic associations. The stretch between Rue -Beaubourg and Rue du Temple was known till 1768 as Rue Courtauvillain, -originally Cour-au-Vilains--the Vilains, not necessarily "villains," -were the serfs or "common people" of bygone days. There lived Madame de -Sévigné before making hôtel Carnavalet her home. No. 51 is the Maison du -Grand Pignon, the big gable, owned, about the year 1407, by Nicolas -Flamel and his wife Pernelle. Nicolas was a reputed schoolmaster of the -age who made a good thing out of his establishment and was cited as -having discovered the philosopher's stone. On his death, he bequeathed -his house and all his goods to the church St-Jacques-la-Boucherie, of -which la Tour St-Jacques alone remains (_see_ pp. 95, 97). - -Rue Grenier-St-Lazare, in the thirteenth century Rue Garnier de -St-Ladre, shows us interesting old houses, and at No. 4 a Louis XVI -staircase. - -Rue Michel-le-Comte, another street of ancient houses, erewhile _hôtels_ -of the _noblesse_, reminds one of the popular punning phrase, "_Ça fait -la Rue Michel_," i.e. _ça fait le compte_--Michel-le-Comte. No. 28 was -at one time inhabited by comte Esterhazy, Hungarian Ambassador. Impasse -de Clairvaux, Rue du Maure (fourteenth century, known at one time as -Cour des Anglais), and Rue Brantôme make a cluster of ancient streets, -with many vestiges of past ages. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE TEMPLE - - -OF the renowned citadel and domain of mediæval times, from which the -arrondissement takes its name, nothing now remains. A modern square -(1865) has been arranged on the site of the mansion and the gardens of -the Grand Prieur, but the surrounding streets, several stretching where -the Temple once stood and across the site of its extensive grounds, show -us historic houses, historic vestiges and associations along their -entire course. - -The Knights-Templar settled in Paris in 1148. Their domain with its -dungeon, built in 1212, its manor and fortified tower, and the vast -surrounding grounds, were seized in 1307 and given over to the knights -of St. John of Jerusalem, known later as the knights of Malta. From that -time to the Revolution the Temple was closely connected with the life of -the city. The primitive buildings were demolished, streets built along -the site of some of them in the seventeenth century, and an immense -battlemented castle with towers and a strong prison erected where the -original stronghold had stood. The Temple, as then built, was like the -old abbeys and royal palaces: a sort of township, having within its -enclosures all that was needful for the daily life of its inhabitants. -Besides Louis XVI and his family many persons of note passed weary days -in its prison. Sidney Smith effected his escape therefrom. Its -encircling walls were razed in the first years of the nineteenth -century; and in 1808 Napoléon had the great tower knocked down. In 1814 -the Allies made the Grand Priory their headquarters. Louis XVIII gave -over the mansion to an Order of Benedictine nuns. In 1848 it served as a -barracks. Its end came in 1854, when it was razed to the ground. Then a -big _place_ and market hall were set up on the site of the old Temple -chapel and its adjacent buildings--a famous market, given up in great -part to dealers in second-hand goods--the chief Paris market of -_occasions_ (bargains). The Rotonde which had been erected in 1781 was -allowed to stand and lasted till 1863. A new ironwork hall, built in -1855, was not demolished till recent years--1905. - -[Illustration: LA PORTE DU TEMPLE] - -Those pretty, gay knick-knacks, that glittering cheap jewellery known -throughout the world as "articles de Paris" had their origin among a -special class of the inhabitants of the old Temple grounds. No one -living there paid taxes. Impecunious persons of varying rank sought -asylum there--a society made up in great part of artists and -artistically-minded artisans. To gain their daily bread they set their -wits and their fingers to work and soon found a ready sale for their -Brummagem--not mere Brummagem, however, and all of truly Parisian -delicacy of conception and workmanship. - -Starting up Rue du Temple, from Rue Rambuteau, this part of it before -1851 Rue Ste-Avoie, we come upon the passage Ste-Avoie, and the entrance -to the demolished _hôtel_, once that of Constable Anne de Montmorency, -later, for a time, the Law's famous bank. At No. 71 we see l'hôtel de -St-Aignan, built in 1660, used in 1812 as a _mairie_, with fine doors -and Corinthian pilastres in the court. No. 79 was l'hôtel de Montmort -(1650). No. 86 is on the site of a famous cabaret of the days of Louis -XII. At Nos. 101-103 we see vestiges of l'hôtel de Montmorency. No. 113 -was the dependency of a Carmelite convent. At No. 122 Balzac lived in -1882. At No. 153 was the eighteenth-century _bureau des -Vinaigrettes_--Sedan-chairs on wheels. The great door of the Temple, -demolished in 1810, stood opposite No. 183. Vestiges were found in -recent years beneath the pavement. At No. 195, within the Église -Ste-Elisabeth, originally the convent chapel of the Filles de -Ste-Elisabeth (1614-1690), we see most beautiful woodwork. Rue Turbigo -cut right through the ancient presbytère. - -Turning back down this old street to visit the streets leading out of -it, we find Rue Dupetit-Thouars, on the site of old _hôtels_ within the -Temple grounds. Rue de la Corderie, where the Communards met in 1871. -Rue des Fontaines (fifteenth century), with at No. 7 the ancient -hôtellerie du Grand Cerf: at No. 15 the _hôtel_ owned by the Superior of -the convent of the Madelonnettes--a house of Mercy--suppressed at the -Revolution, used as a political prison, later as a woman's prison. Rue -Perrée, where a shadowy Temple market is still to be seen, runs through -the ancient Temple grounds. - -Rue de Bretagne stretches from the Rue de Réaumur at the corner of the -Temple Square, in old days known in its course through the Temple -property as Rue de Bourgogne, farther on as Rue de Saintonge; leading -out of it, at No. 62, the short Rue de Caffarelli runs along the line of -the eastern wall of the vanished Temple fortress; at No. 45 is the Rue -de Beauce where we come upon the ancient private passage, Rue des -Oiseaux, with its _vacherie_ of the old hospice des Enfants-Rouges. At -No. 48 opens the ancient Rue du Beaujolais-du-Temple, renamed Rue de -Picardie. At No. 41 we find the Marché des Enfants-Rouges, a picturesque -old-time market hall with an ancient well in the courtyard. Rue -Portefoin, thirteenth century. Rue Pastourelle, of the same epoch where -at No. 23 lived the _culottier_, Biard, who wrote the Revolutionary -song: la Carmagnole. Rue des Haudriettes, known in past days as Rue de -l'Échelle-du-Temple, for there at its farther end was the Temple pillory -and a tall ladder reaching to its summit. The name _Haudriette_ is that -of the order of nuns founded by Jean Haudri, secretary to Louis IX, who, -given up by his wife as lost while travelling in the East, returned at -length to find her living among a community of widows to whom she had -made over her home. Haudri maintained the institution thus founded, -which was removed later to a mansion, now razed, near the chapel of the -Assumption, in Rue St-Honoré. Rue de Brague, until 1348 Rue -Boucherie-du-Temple, the Templars meat market. The fine old _hôtel_ at -Nos. 4 and 6 has ceilings painted by Lebrun. All these streets are rich -in old-time houses, old-time vestiges, and they are all, as is the whole -of this arrondissement on this side Rue du Temple as far as Rue de -Turenne, in the Marais, a name referring to the marshy nature of the -district in long-past days--but which was for long in pre-Revolution -times the most aristocratic quarter of the city. We find ourselves now -before the Archives and the Imprimerie Nationale, the latter to be -transferred to its new quarters Rue de la Convention. The frontage of -this fine old building and its entrance gates give on the Rue des -Francs-Bourgeois, of which more anon (_see_ p. 84). On the western side -we see a thick high wall and the Gothic doorway of what was, in the -fourteenth century, the Paris dwelling of the redoubtable Constable, -Olivier de Clisson, subsequently for nearly two hundred years in the -hands of the Guise. In 1687 it was rebuilt for the Princess de Soubise -by the architect, Delamair. Pillaged during the Revolution, it became -national property, and in 1808 the Archives were placed there by -Napoléon. Frescoes, fine old woodwork, magnificent mouldings, -architectural work of great beauty are there to be seen. The Duke of -Clarence is said to have made the hôtel Clisson his abode during the -English occupation under Henry V. Going up Rue des Archives we see at -No. 53, dating from 1705, the _hôtel_ built there by the Prince de -Rohan, and onward up the street fine old mansions, once the homes of men -and women of historic name and fame. No. 72 is said to have been the -"Archives" in the time of Louis XIII. An eighteenth-century fountain is -seen in the yard behind the stationer's shop there. No. 78 was the -_hôtel_ of Maréchal de Tallard. No. 79 dates from Louis XIII. At No. 90 -we see traces of the old chapel of the Orphanage des Enfants-Rouges, so -called from the colour of the children's uniform. The eastern side of -the Imprimerie Nationale adjoining the Archives, built by Delamair, as -the hôtel de Strasbourg, and commonly known as hôtel de Rohan, because -four comtes de Rohan were successively bishops of Strasbourg, is -bounded by Rue Vieille-du-Temple, that too along its whole course a -sequence of old houses bearing witness to past grandeur. No. 54 is the -picturesque house and turret built in 1528 by Jean de la Balue, -secretary to the duc d'Orléans. No. 56 was once the abode of Loys de -Villiers of the household of Isabeau de Bavière. No. 75 was the town -house of the family de la Tour-du-Pin-Gouvernet (1720). On the walls of -No. 80 we read the old inscription "Vieille rue du Temple." No. 102 was -the hôtel de Caumartin, later d'Epernon. Nos. 106 and 110 were -dependencies of the hôtel d'Epernon. - -[Illustration: PORTE DE CLISSON - -(Archives)] - -Rue des Quatre-Fils on the north side of the Archives and its adjoining -buildings, known in past times as Rue de l'Échelle-du-Temple, recalls to -mind the romantic adventures of four sons of a certain Aymon, sung by a -thirteenth-century troubadour. Most of its houses are ancient. Leading -out of it is the old Rue Charlot with numerous seventeenth-century and -eighteenth-century houses or vestiges. We peep into the Ruelle Sourdis, -a gutter running down the middle of it, once shut in by iron gates and -boundary stones. At No. 5 we see what remains of the hôtel Sourdis, -which in 1650 belonged to Cardinal Retz. The church St-Jean-St-François, -opposite, is the ancient chapel of the convent St-François-des-Capucins -du Marais. It replaced the old church St-Jean-en-Grève, destroyed at the -Revolution, and here we see, surrounding the nave, painted copies of -ancient tapestries telling the story of the miracle of the sacred Hostie -which a Jew in mockery sought to destroy by burning. The fête of -Reparation kept from the fourteenth century at the church of St-Jean and -at the chapel les Billettes (_see_ p. 107) has since 1867 been kept -here. Here too, piously preserved, is the chasuble used by the Abbé -Edgeworth at the last Mass heard before his execution by Louis XVI in -the Temple prison hard by. In the short Rue du Perche behind the church, -lived for a time at No. 7 _bis_ Scarron's young widow, destined to -become Madame de Maintenon. Fine frescoes cover several of its ceilings. -In Rue de Poitou we find more interesting old houses. In Rue de -Normandie Nos. 10, 6, 9 show interesting features, old courtyards, etc. -Turning from Rue Charlot into Rue Béranger, known until 1864 by the name -of the Grand Prior of the Temple de Vendôme, we find the hôtel de -Vendôme, Nos. 5 and 3, dating from 1752 where Béranger lived and died. -At No. 11, now a business house, lived Berthier de Sauvigny, -Intendant-Général de Paris in 1789, hung on a lamp-post after the taking -of the Bastille, one of the first victims of the Revolution. - -[Illustration: RUELLE DE SOURDIS] - -Running parallel to Rue Charlot, starting from the little Rue du Perche, -Rue Saintonge, formed by joining two seventeenth-century streets, Rue -Poitou and Rue Touraine, shows us a series of ancient dwellings. From -October, 1789, to 15th July, 1791, Robespierre lived at No. 64. A fine -columned entrance court at No. 5 has been supplanted by a brand-new -edifice. The _hôtel_ at No. 4, dating originally from about 1611, was -rebuilt in 1745. - -Rue de Turenne, running in this arrondissement from Rue Charlot to the -corner of the Place des Vosges, began as Rue Louis, then in its upper -part was Rue Boucherat, as an ancient inscription at No. 133 near the -fountain Boucherat records. From the old street whence it starts, Rue -St.-Antoine in the 4th arrondissement, it is a long line of ancient -_hôtels_, the homes in bygone days of men of notable names and doings; -one side of the convent des Filles-du-Calvaire stretched between the Rue -des Filles-du-Calvaire and Rue Pont-au-Choux. No. 76 was the home of the -last governor of the Bastille, Monsieur de Launay. The church of -St-Denis-du-St-Sacrament at No. 70 was built in 1835 on the site of the -chapel of a convent razed in 1826, previously a mansion of Maréchal de -Turenne. At No. 56, Scarron lived and died. No. 54 was the abode of the -comte de Montrésor, noted in the wars of the Fronde. At No. 41, fresh -water flows from the fontaine de Joyeuse on the site of the ancient -hôtel de Joyeuse. We find a beautiful staircase in almost every one of -these old _hôtels_. - -[Illustration: HÔTEL VENDÔME, RUE BÉRANGER] - -Shorter interesting old streets lead out of this long one on each side. - -Rue du Parc-Royal, memorizes the park and palace of Les Tournelles, -razed to the ground after the tragic death of Henri II by his widow, -Catherine de' Medici (_see_ p. 8). No. 4, dating from 1620, was -inhabited by successive illustrious families until the early years of -the nineteenth century. There, till recently, was seen a wonderful -carved wood staircase. Many of the ancient houses erewhile here have -been demolished in recent years, and are supplanted by modern buildings -and a garden-square. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -THE HOME OF MADAME DE SÉVIGNÉ - - -We are now in the vicinity of that most entrancing of historic museums, -Musée Carnavalet, and its neighbouring library. On the wall of Rue de -Sévigné is still to be read engraved in the stonework its more ancient -name, Rue de la Culture-Ste-Catherine, so called because it ran across -cultivated land in the vicinity of an ancient church dedicated to St. -Catherine. It was in 1677 that Madame de Sévigné and her daughter, -Madame de Grignan, settled in the first story of the house No. 23, built -some hundred and thirty years before by Jacques de Ligneri under the -direction of the renowned architect Pierre Lescot and the sculptor Jean -Goujon. The widow of a Breton lord, Kernevenoy, or some such word by -name, which resolved itself into Carnavalet, bought the _hôtel_ from the -Ligneri; inhabitants and owners changed as time went on, but this name -remained. At the Revolution, the mansion was taken possession of by the -State, was used for a school, to become after 1871 the historical Museum -of Paris. In 1898 the museum was taken in hand by M. Georges Cain and -from that day to this has been continually added to, made more and more -valuable and attractive by this eminently capable administrator. To -study the history, and learn "from the life" the story of Paris and of -France, go to the Musée Carnavalet. And to read about all you see -there, turn at No. 29 into the Bibliothèque de la Ville. In olden days -le Petit Arsenal de la Ville stood on the site. The edifice we see, -l'hôtel St-Fargeau, was built in 1687. The city library, which had been -re-organized by Jules Cousin, was placed there in 1898. - -Rue Payenne runs across the site of ancient houses and of part of two -convents, a door of one is seen at that regrettably modern-style -erection, so out of keeping with its surroundings, the Lycée -Victor-Hugo. At No. 5 we see a bust of Auguste Compte, with an -inscription, for this was the "Temple of the religion of Humanity," and -Compte's friend and inspirer Clotilde de Vaux died here. Here souvenirs -of the philosopher are kept in a memorial chapel. Nos. 11 and 13 formed -the mansion of the duc de Lude, one of the most noted admirers of Madame -de Sévigné, Grand Maître d'Artillerie in 1675, and was inhabited at one -time by Madame Scarron. In Rue Elzévir--in the sixteenth century Rue des -Trois-Pavillons--was born Marion Delorme (1613). Ninon de Lenclos lived -here in 1642. We see a fine old house at No. 8, and at No. 2 l'hôtel de -Lusignan. Leading out of Rue Elzévir, the old Rue Barbette records the -name of a master of the Mint under Philippe-le-Bel, and a house he built -with extensive gardens, known as the Courtille Barbette; the Courtille -was destroyed by the populace, displeased at a change in the coinage, in -1306; the house remained and became a rendezvous of courtiers, passed -into the hands of the extremely light-lived Isabeau de Bavière, who -inaugurated there her wonderful _bals masqués_. It was on leaving the -hôtel Barbette that the duc d'Orléans, Isabeau's lover, was -assassinated, on the threshold of a neighbouring house, by the men of -Jean Sans Peur, 23 November, 1407 (_see_ p. 40). The mansion passed -subsequently through many hands, and was finally in part demolished in -1563, and this street cut across the ground where it had stood. No. 8 -was the "petit hôtel" of Maréchal d'Estrées, brother of Gabrielle, -confiscated at the Revolution and made later the mother-house of the -Institution "la Legion d'Honneur" for the education of officer's -daughters. The grand old mansion has been despoiled of its splendid -decorations, precious woodwork, etc.--all sold peacemeal for high -prices. Almost every house in this old street is an ancient _hôtel_. No. -14 was the hôtel Bigot de Chorelle, No. 16 the hôtel de Choisy, No. 18 -the hôtel Massu, No. 17 the hôtel de Brégis, etc. We see other ancient -houses in Rue de la Perle. At No. 1, dating from the close of the -seventeenth century, we find wonderfully interesting things in the -courtyard; busts of old Romans, fine bas-reliefs, etc. - -Rue de Thorigny, sixteenth century, was named after Président Lambert de -Thorigny, whose descendants built, a century or two later, the fine -hôtel Lambert on l'Ile St-Louis. Marion died in a house in this street; -Madame de Sévigné lived here at one time, as did Balzac in 1814. The -fine _hôtel_ at No. 5 goes by the name hôtel Salé, because its owner, -Aubert de Fontenay, had grown rich through the Gabelle (salt-tax). Later -it was the abode of Monseigneur Juigné, Archbishop of Paris, who in the -terrible winter 1788-89 gave all he possessed to assuage the misery of -the people, yet met his death by stoning on the outbreak of the -Revolution. Confiscated by the State, the fine old mansion was for a -time put to various uses; then bought and its beauties reverently -guarded by its present owners. Rue Debelleyme, made up of four short -ancient streets, shows interesting vestiges. The nineteenth-century -novelist, Eugène Sue, lived here. - -To the east of Rue de Turenne, at its junction with Rue des -Francs-Bourgeois, we find old streets across the site of the ancient -palace des Tournelles; of the palace no trace remains save the name of -the old Rue des Tournelles. Rue du Foin runs where hay was once made in -the fields of the palace park. Rue de Béarn was in olden times Rue du -Parc-Royal. Here we find vestiges of the convent des Minimes, founded by -Marie de' Medici in 1611, suppressed in 1790. Some of its walls form -part of the barracks we see there, and the cloister still stands intact -in the courtyard, while at No. 10, Rue des Minimes, may be seen the old -convent door. The building No. 7 of this latter street, now a school, -dates from the seventeenth century. A famous chestnut-tree, several -hundred years old, flourished in the court at No. 14 till a few years -ago. In Rue St-Gilles, we see among other ancient houses the Pavilion of -the hôtel Morangis, No. 22, and at No. 12, the Cour de Venise. In Rue -Villehardouin, when it was Rue des Douze Portes, to which Rue St-Pierre -was joined at its change of name, lived Scarron and his young wife. Rue -des Tournelles with its strikingly old-world aspect shows us two houses -inhabited by Ninon de Lenclos, Nos. 56 and 26, and at No. 58, that of -Locré, who with some other men of law drew up the famous Code Napoléon. - -At No. 1, Rue St-Claude, one side of the house in Rue des Arquebusiers, -dwelt the notorious sorcerer, Joseph Balsamo, known as comte de -Cagliostro. The iron balustrade dates from his day and the heavy -handsome doors came from the ancient Temple buildings. Rue Pont-au-Choux -recalls the days when the land was a stretch of market gardens. Rue -Froissard and Rue de Commines lie on the site of the razed couvent des -Filles-du-Calvaire, of which vestiges are to be seen on the boulevard at -No. 13. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -NOTRE-DAME - - -ARRONDISSEMENT IV. (HÔTEL-DE-VILLE) - -Rue Lutèce, the French form of the Roman word Lutetia, recording the -ancient name of the city, is a modern street on ancient historic ground. -There, on the river island, the first settlers pitched their camp, -reared their rude dwellings, laid the foundation of the city of mud to -become in future days the city of light, the brilliant Ville Lumière. -When the conquering Romans took possession of the primitive city and -built there its first palace, the island of the Seine became l'Île du -Palais. - -[Illustration: NOTRE-DAME] - -Of the buildings erected there through succeeding centuries, few traces -now remain. But Roman walls in perfect condition were discovered beneath -the surface of the island so recently as 1906. Close to the site of Rue -Lutèce ran, until the middle of last century, the ancient Rue des Fèves, -where was the famous Taverne de la Pomme de Pin, a favourite -meeting-place from the time of Molière of great men of letters. Crossing -Rue de la Cité, formed in 1834 along the line of the old Rue St-Éloi -which stretched where Degobert's great statesman had founded the abbey -St-Martial, we come to the Parvis Notre-Dame. The Parvis, so wide and -open to-day, was until very recent times--well into the second half of -the nineteenth century--crowded with buildings; old shops, old streets, -erections connected with the old Hôtel-Dieu, covered in great part the -space before the Cathedral, now an open square. The statue of -Charlemagne we see there is modern, set up in 1882. - -The Cathedral, beloved and venerated by Parisians from all time--"_Sacra -sancta ecclesia civitatis Parisiensis_"--stands upon the site of two -ancient churches which in early ages together formed the Episcopal -church of the capital of France. One bore the name of the martyr, St. -Stephen, the other was dedicated to Ste-Marie. - -These churches stood on the site of a pre-Christian place of worship, a -temple of Mars or Jupiter: Roman remains of great extent were found -beneath the pavements when clearing away the ancient buildings on the -Parvis. Fire wrought havoc on both churches, entirely destroyed one, and -towards the year 1162 Sully set about the erection of a church worthy of -the capital of his country. Its first stone was laid by the Guelph -refugee, Pope Alexander III, in 1163. The chancel, the nave and the -façade were finished without undue delay, and in 1223 the whole of the -beautiful Gothic building was finished; alterations were made during the -years that followed until about 1300. From that time onward Notre-Dame -was made a store-house of things beautiful. The finest pictures of each -succeeding age lined its walls--at length so thickly that there was room -for no more. Much beautiful old work, including a fine rood screen, was -carted away under Louis XIV, when space was wanted for the immense -statue of the Virgin set up then in fulfilment of the vow of Louis XIII, -destroyed later. The figures on the great doors, we see to-day, are -modern: the original statuettes were hacked to pieces at the outbreak of -the Revolution by the mob who mistook the Kings of Israel for the Kings -of France! - -[Illustration: RUE MASSILLON] - -The _flêche_, too, is of latter-day construction, built by Viollet le -Duc, to replace the ancient turret bell-tower. Destruction and -desecration of every kind fell upon the Cathedral in Revolution days. -Priceless glass was smashed, magnificent work of every sort ruthlessly -torn down, trampled in the dust. On the Parvis--the space before the -Cathedral doors where in long-gone ages the mystery plays were acted--a -great bonfire was made of all the Mass books and Bibles, etc., found -within the sacred edifice: priceless illuminated missals, etc., perished -then. Marvellous woodwork, glorious stained-glass windows, fine statuary -happily still remain. - -From the time of its erection, the grand Cathedral was closely connected -with the greatest historical events of France, just as the church built -by Childebert and the older church of St-Étienne had been before. St. -Louis was buried there in 1271. The first States-General was held there -in 1302. There Henry VI of England was crowned King of France in 1431, -and Marie-Stuart crowned Queen Consort in 1560. Henri IV heard his first -Mass there in 1694. Within the sacred walls the Revolutionists set up -the worship of reason, held sacrilegious fêtes. Napoléon I was crowned -there and was there married to Marie Louise of Austria. Napoléon III's -wedding took place there. These are some only singled out from a long -list of historical associations. National Te Deums, Requiems, Services -of Reparation all take place at this Sancta Ecclesia Parisionis. - -The Hôtel-Dieu on the north side of the Parvis is the modern hospital -raised on the site of the ancient Paris House of God, the hospital for -the Paris poor built in the thirteenth century, always in close -connection with the Cathedral and having its _annexe_ across the little -bridge St-Charles, a sort of covered gallery. Those blackened walls -stood till 1909. - -Rue du Cloître Notre-Dame belonged in past ages to the Cathedral -Chapter, a cloistered thoroughfare. Its fifty-one houses have almost -entirely disappeared. Three still stand: Nos. 18, 16, 14. Pierre Lescot, -the notable sixteenth-century architect, to whom a canonry was given, -died there in 1578. Rue Chanoinesse is still inhabited by the Cathedral -canons. Its houses are all ancient. At No. 10 lived Fulbert, the uncle -of the beautiful Héloïse, who braved his anger for the sake of Abelard, -who lived and taught hard by. Racine is said to have lived at No. 16. -The old Tour de Dagobert, which did not, however, date back quite to -that monarch's time, stood at No. 18 till 1908. Its wonderful staircase, -formed of a single oak-tree, is at the Musée Cluny. Lacordaire is said -to have lodged at No. 17. A curious old courtyard at No. 20. At No. 24, -vestiges of the old chapel St-Aignan (twelfth century). At 26, a passage -with old pillars and paved with old tombstones. Leading out of it runs -the little Rue des Chantres where the choristers lived and worked to -perfect their voices and their knowledge of music. Rue Massillon is -entirely made of old houses with most interesting features--a marvellous -carved oak staircase at No. 6, fine doors, curious courtyards. Another -beautiful staircase at No. 4. In Rue des Ursins, connected with Rue -Chanoinesse, we find many ancient houses. At No. 19 we see vestiges of -the old chapel where Mass was said secretly during the Revolution by -priests who went there disguised as workmen. - -Rue de la Colombe, where we find an inscription referring to the -discovery there of Roman remains, dates from the early years of the -thirteenth century. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -L'ÎLE ST-LOUIS - - -Crossing the bridge painted of yore bright red and known therefore as le -Pont-Rouge, we find ourselves upon the Île St-Louis, in olden days two -distinct islands: l'Île Notre-Dame and l'Île-aux-Vaches, both -uninhabited until the early years of the seventeenth century. Tradition -says the law-duels known as _jugements de Dieu_ took place there. The -Chapter of Notre-Dame had certain rights over the island. - -In the seventeenth century, consent was given for the Île St-Louis to be -built upon, and the official constructor of Ponts and Chaussées obtained -the concession of the two islets under the stipulation that he should -fill up the brook which separated them, and make a bridge across the arm -of the Seine to the city quay. The brook became Rue Poulletier, where we -see interesting vestiges of that day and two ancient _hôtels_, Nos. 3 -and 20--the latter now a school. - -All along Rue St-Louis-en-l'Île and in the streets connected with it, -fine old mansions, or beautiful vestiges of the buildings then erected, -still stand. The church we see there was begun by Le Vau in 1664, on the -site of a chapel built at his own expense by one Nicolas-le-Jeune. The -curious belfry dates from 1741. The church is a very store-house of -works of art, many of them by the great masters of old, put there by its -vicar, Abbé Bossuet, who devoted his whole fortune and his untiring -energy to the work of restoring the church left in ruins after its -despoliation at the Revolution, and died so poor in consequence as to be -buried by the parish. At No. 1 of this quaint street we find a pavilion -of l'hôtel de Bretonvilliers of which an arch is seen at No. 7, and -other vestiges at Nos. 5 and 3. The Arbalétriers were wont to meet here -in pre-Revolution days. No. 2, its northern front giving on Quai d'Anjou -(_see_ p. 328), is the grand mansion of Nicolas Lambert de Thorigny, -built by Le Vau, 1680; its splendid decorations are the work of Lebrun -and other noted artists and sculptors of the time. In 1843 it was bought -by the family of a Polish prince and used in part as an orphanage for -the daughters of Polish exiles till 1899. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -L'HÔTEL DE VILLE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - - -The Hôtel de Ville, which gives its name to the arrondissement, is a -modern erection built as closely as possible on the plan and from the -designs of the fine Renaissance structure of the sixteenth century burnt -to the ground by the Communards in 1871. Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, -where it stands, was until 1830 Place de Grève, the Place du Port de -Grève of anterior days, days going back to Roman times. Like the Paris -Cathedral, the hôtel de Ville is closely linked with the most marked -events of French history. The first hôtel de Ville was known as la -Maison-aux-Piliers, previously l'hôtel des Dauphins du Viennois, bought -in 1357 by Étienne Marcel, Prévôt des Marchands, of historic memory -(_see_ p. 39), whose statue we see in the garden. The first stone of the -fine building burnt in 1871 was laid by François I in 1533, its last one -in the time of Henri IV. On the Square before it executions took place, -for offences criminal, political, religious, by burning, strangling, -hanging and the guillotine. In its centre stood a tall Gothic cross -reared upon eight steps, at the foot of which the condemned said their -last prayers. The guillotine first set up there in 1792 was soon moved -about, as we know, to different points of the city, when used for -political victims. Common-law criminals continued to expiate their evil -deeds on Place de Grève. It was a comparatively small _place_ in those -days. Its enlargement in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries caused -the destruction of many old streets, in one of which was the famous -Maison de la Lanterne. Close up against the Hôtel de Ville stood in past -days the old church St-Jean-en-Grève and a hospice; both were -incorporated in the town hall by Napoléon I. The entire building was -destroyed in 1871, but the present structure is remarkably fine in every -part, both within and without, and the Salle St-Jean, memorizing the -church once there, is splendidly decorated. The Avenue Victoria, on the -site of ancient streets, memorizes the visit of the English Queen in -1855. The short Rue de la Tâcherie (from _tâche_: task, work) crossing -it, was in the thirteenth century Rue de la Juiverie, for here we are in -the neighbourhood of what is still the Jews' quarter. - -[Illustration: PLACE DE GRÈVE] - -A modern garden-square surrounds the beautiful Tour St-Jacques, all that -is left of the ancient church St-Jacques-la-Boucherie, built in the -fifteenth century, on the site of a chapel of the eighth century, -finished in the sixteenth, entirely restored in the nineteenth century -and again recently. It is used as an observatory. Paris weather -statistics hail from la Tour St-Jacques. - -On the site of the modern Place du Châtelet rose in bygone ages the -primitive tower of the Grand Châtelet, which developed under -Louis-le-Gros into a strongly fortified castle and prison guarding the -bridge across the Seine to the right, while the Petit Châtelet guarded -it on the left bank. A _chandelle_--a flaming tallow candle--set up by -command of Philippe-le-Long near its doorway, is said to be the origin -of the lighting, dim enough as it was for centuries, of Paris streets. -The fortress was rebuilt by Louis XIV; part of it served as the Morgue -until it was razed to the ground in 1802. The fountain plays where the -prison once stood. Numerous old streets lead out of the modern Rue de -Rivoli at this point. Rue Nicolas-Flamel, running where good Nicolas had -a fine _hôtel_ in the early years of the fifteenth century, and Rue -Pernelle recording the name of his wife, have existed under other names -from the thirteenth century. Rue St-Bon recalls the chapel on the spot -in still earlier times. - -Rue St-Martin beginning at Quai des Gesvres, the high road to the north -of Roman days, after cutting through Avenue Victoria, crosses Rue de -Rivoli at this point, and here was the first of the four Portes which in -succession marked the city boundary on this side. The beautiful -sixteenth-century church we see here, St-Merri, stands on the site of a -chapel built in the seventh century. In a Gothic crypt remains of its -patron saint who lived and died on the spot are reverently guarded, and -the bones of Eudes the Falconer, the redoubtable warrior who dowered the -church, discovered in perfect preservation in a stone coffin in the -time of François I, lie in the choir. It is a wonderfully interesting -structure, with fine glass, woodwork, mouldings, statues and statuettes. -The statuettes we see on the walls of the porch are comparatively -modern, replacing the ancient ones destroyed at the Revolution. - -[Illustration: LA TOUR ST-JACQUES] - -[Illustration: VIEW ACROSS THE SEINE FROM PLACE DU CHÂTELET] - -[Illustration: RUE BRISEMICHE] - -[Illustration: L'ÉGLISE ST-GERVAIS] - -Rue de la Verrerie bordering the southern walls of the church and -running on almost to Rue Vieille-du-Temple, dates from the twelfth -century and reminds us by its name of the glaziers and glass painters' -Company, developed from the confraternity which in 1187 made the old -street its quarter. Louis XIV, finding this a convenient road on the way -to Vincennes, had it enlarged. There dwelt Jacquemin Gringonneur, who, -it is said, invented playing cards for the distraction of the insane -King Charles VI. Bossuet's father and many other persons of position or -repute lived in the old houses which remain or in others on the site of -the more modern ones. At No. 76 was the _hôtel_ inhabited by Suger, the -Minister of Louis VI and Louis VII; part of its ancient walls were -incorporated in the church in the sixteenth century. Here, too, is the -presbytery, where in the courtyard we find a wonderful old spiral -staircase, its summit higher than the church roof. Old streets and -passages wind in and out around the church. Exploring them, we come upon -interesting vestiges innumerable. The ancient clergy house is at No. 76, -Rue St-Martin. Rue Cloître-St-Merri, Rue Taille-pain, Rue Brise-Miche, -these two referring to the bakery once there and bread portioned out, -cut or broken for the Clergy; Rue St-Merri and its old passage, Impasse -du Boeuf, with its eighteenth-century grille; Rue Pierre-au-lard, a -humorous adaptation of the name Pierre Aulard, borne by a notable -parishioner of the eighteenth century. Passage Jabach on the site of the -home of the rich banker of the seventeenth century whose fine collection -of pictures were the nucleus of the treasures of the Louvre. Impasse -St-Fiacre, the word saint cut away at the Revolution, where dwelt the -first hirer-out of cabs; hence the term _fiacre_. Rue de la Reynie -(thirteenth century), renamed in memory of the Lieutenant-General of -Police who, in 1669, ordered the lighting of Paris streets, but did -not provide lamplighters. Private citizens were bound daily to light and -extinguish the lanterns then placed at the end and in the middle of each -thoroughfare. Everyone of these streets, dull and grimy though they be, -are full of interest for the explorer. Going on up Rue St-Martin, we see -on both sides numerous features of interest. Look at Nos. 97, 100, 103, -104; and at No. 116, called Maison des Goths, with its fine old frieze. -At No. 120 there are two storeyed cellars and in one of them a well. The -fontaine Maubuée at No. 122 is referred to in old documents so early as -1320. Its name shortened from _mauvaise buée_, i.e. _mauvaise fumée_, is -not suggestive of the purity of its waters at that remote period; the -fountain was reconstructed in 1733--the house some sixty years later. -The upper end of Rue Simon-le-Franc, which we turn into here, was until -recent times Rue Maubuée. It may, perhaps, still deserve the name. Rue -Simon-le-Franc is one of the oldest among all these old streets, for it -was a thoroughfare in the year 1200. It records the name of a worthy -citizen of his day, one Simon Franque. All the houses are ancient, some -very picturesque. Next in date is that most characteristic of old-time -streets, the Rue de Venise. The name, a misnomer, dates only from 1851, -due to an old sign. The street was known by various appellations since -its formation somewhere about the year 1250. Every house and court there -is ancient, the space between those on either side so narrow that the -tall, dark buildings seem to meet at their apex. No. 27 is the old inn -"l'Épée de Bois," lately renovated and its name changed to "L'Arrivée de -Venise," where from the year 1658 a company of musicians and -dancing-masters duly licensed by Mazarin used to meet under the -direction of "Le roi des violons," their chief. This was, in fact, the -nucleus of the Académie National of Music and Dancing, known later as -the Conservatoire. Great men of letters too were wont to meet in that -old inn. Rue de Venise opens into Rue Beaubourg, a road that stretched -through a _beau bourg_, i.e. a fine township, so far back as the -eleventh century, with special privileges, the rights of citizenship for -its inhabitants although lying without the boundary-wall. No. 4, now -razed, was the "Restaurant du Bon Bourg," _tenu par_ "le Roi du Bon -Vin." To the left is Rue des Étuves, i.e. Bath Street, with houses old -and curious. Rue de Venise runs at its lower end into the famous Rue de -Quincampoix, the street of Law's bank (_see_ p. 63), where every house -is ancient or has vestiges of past ages. No. 43 was a shop let in Law's -time at the rate of 100 francs a day. The street leads down into Rue des -Lombards, the ancient usurers' and pawnbrokers' street, inhabited in -these days by a very opposite class--herborists. Tradition says -Boccaccio was born here. Rue du Temple, Rue des Archives, Rue -Vieille-du-Temple, Rue de Sévigné, traversed in part in the 3rd -arrondissement (_see_ p. 108) all have their lower numbers in this 4th -arrondissement, the first three branching off from Rue de Rivoli, the -last from Rue St-Antoine. At No. 61, Rue du Temple, on the site of the -vanished Couvent des Filles de Ste-Avoie, we see an old gabled house. In -the courtyard of No. 57, l'hôtel de Titon, the Bastille armourer. At No. -41 the old tavern "l'Aigle d'Or." No. 20 is the ancient office of the -Gabelles--the salt-tax. Here we see an old sign taken from the vicinity -of St-Gervais, showing the famous elm-tree, of which more anon. Every -house shows some interesting old-time feature. This brings us again -close up to the Hôtel de Ville, where we see the venerable church -St-Gervais-et-St-Protais, dating in its present form from the sixteenth -century, on the site of a church built there in the sixth. That -primitive erection grew into a beautiful church in the early years of -the twelfth century. Some of the exquisite work of that day may still be -seen by turning up the narrow passage to the left, where we find the -ancient _charniers_. Rebuilding was undertaken two centuries later. A -curious half-effaced inscription on an old wall within refers to this -reconstruction and its dedication fête day, instituted in honour of -"Messieurs St. Gervais et St. Protais." The last rebuilding was in 1581. -Then in the seventeenth century, the Renaissance façade was added to the -Gothic edifice behind it by Salomon de Brosse. The church is full of -precious artistic work, glorious glass, frescoes, statuary and rich in -historic associations. Madame de Sévigné was married here; Scarron was -married to the young girl destined to become Mme de Maintenon, and was -perhaps buried in the beautiful Chapelle-Dorée. The church has always -suffered in time of war. At the Revolution the insurgents tried to shake -down its fine tall pillars; the marks are still to be seen. In -1830-48-71 cannon balls pierced its belfry walls, and now on Good Friday -of this war-year 1918, the enemy's gun, firing at a range of -seventy-five miles, struck its roof, laid low a great pillar, brought -death and wounding to the assembled congregation. On the _place_ before -the church we see a tree railed round. A shadier elm-tree stood there -once, the famous Orme de St-Gervais, beneath which justice--or maybe at -times injustice--was administered in the open air, in long-past ages. - -[Illustration: HÔTEL DE BEAUVAIS, RUE FRANÇOIS-MIRON] - -Rue François-Miron running east, its lower end the ancient Rue -St-Antoine, shows us the _orme_, figured in the ironwork of all its -balconies. This end of the street was known in olden days as Rue du -Pourtour St-Gervais, then as Rue du Monceau St-Gervais, referring to the -wide stretch of waste ground in the vicinity which, unbuilt upon for -centuries, was a favourite site for festive gatherings and tournaments. -It records the name of the Prévôt des Marchands of the sixteenth century -to whom was due the façade of the Hôtel de Ville, burnt in 1871. Its -houses are for the most part ancient. No. 13, quaint and gabled, -fifteenth century. No. 82 the old mansion of President Henault. No. 68 -hôtel de Beauvais, associated with many historic personages and events, -has Gothic cellars which of yore formed part of the monastastic house -where Tasso wrote his great poem "Jerusalem Delivered." The walls above -those fine cellars were knocked down in the third decade of the -seventeenth century and replaced in 1655 by those we see there now, -built as the hôtel de Beauvais, destined to see many changes. At the -Revolution the grand old mansion was for a time a coach-office, then a -house let out in flats. Mozart is said to have stayed there in 1763. - -Behind the church is the old Rue des Barres with an ancient inscription -and traces of an ancient chapel. The sordid but picturesque Rue de -l'Hôtel de Ville was known for centuries as Rue de la Mortellerie, from -the _morteliers_, or masons who had settled there. In the dread cholera -year 1832 the inhabitants saw in the name of their street a sinister -reference to the word _mort_ and demanded its change. Every house has -some feature of old-time interest. Beneath No. 56 there is a Gothic -cellar, once, tradition says, a chapel founded by Blanche de France, -grand-daughter of Philippe-le-Bel, who died in 1358. At No. 39 we see -the narrowest street in Paris, Rue du Paon Blanc, erewhile known as the -"descente à la rivière." Nos. 8-2 is the venerable hôtel de Sens (_see_ -p. 117). - -In Rue Geoffroy l'Asnier, between Rue de l'Hôtel de Ville and Rue -François-Miron, thirteenth century, we find among many other vestiges of -old times the fine seventeenth-century door of hôtel Chalons at No. 26. -In Rue de Jouy of the same period and interest, at No. 12 and No. 14, -dependencies of l'hôtel Beauvais; at No. 7 l'hôtel d'Aumont, built in -1648 on the site of the house where Richelieu was born. At No. 9, the -École Sophie-Germain, the ancient hôtel de Fourcy, previously inhabited -by a rich bourgeois family. - -Rue des Archives (_see_ p. 74) is chiefly interesting in its course -through this arrondissement for the old church des Billettes (_see_ p. -76) on the site of the house of the Jew Jonathas, so called from the -sign hung outside a neighbouring house--_a billot_--i.e. log of wood. -Rebuilt in 1745, closed at the Revolution, the church was given to the -Protestants in 1808. The beautiful cloisters of the fifteenth-century -structure were left untouched and are enclosed in the school adjoining -the church. Rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie dates from the early years -of the thirteenth century and is rich in relics of past ages. Its name -records the existence there of the thirteenth-century church de -l'Exaltation de la Ste-Croix and of a convent instituted in 1258 in the -ancient Monnaie du Roi--the Mint--suppressed at the Revolution, but of -which traces are still seen on the square. At No. 47 we see a turret -dating from 1610. The dispensary at No. 44 is the old hôtel Feydeau de -Brou (1760). No. 35 belonged to the old church Chapter. The boys' school -at No. 22 is ancient. No. 20 dates from 1696. Rue Aubriot from the -thirteenth to the middle of the nineteenth century was Rue du -Puits-au-Marais. Aubriot was the thirteenth-century Prévôt de Paris, an -active builder, and who first laid drains beneath Paris streets. No. 10 -dates from the first years of the seventeenth century. Vestiges of that -or an earlier age are seen all along the street. Rue des Blancs-Manteaux -recalls the begging Friars, servants of Mary, wearing long white -cloaks, who settled here in 1258. They united a few years later with the -Guillemites, whose name is recorded in a neighbouring street of ancient -date. Their church at No. 12 was entirely rebuilt in 1685, and in 1863 -the portal of the demolished Barnabite church added to its façade. -Remains of the old convent buildings are incorporated in the -Mont-de-Piété opposite. At No. 14 we see traces of the old Priory. No. -22 and No. 25 have fine old staircases and other interesting vestiges. -The cabaret de "l'Homme Armé" existed in the fifteenth century. We find -ancient vestiges, often fine staircases, at most of the houses. - -[Illustration: RUE VIEILLE-DU-TEMPLE] - -Rue Vieille-du-Temple, which begins its long course opposite the Mairie, -has lost its first numbers. This old street shows us interesting -features at every step. No. 15, hôtel de Vibraye. No. 20, Impasse de -l'hôtel d'Argenson. No. 24, hôtel of the Maréchal d'Effiat, father of -Cinq Mars. The short Rue du Trésor at its side was so named in 1882 from -the treasure-trove found beneath the _hôtel_ when cutting the street, -gold pieces of the time of King Jean and Charles V in a copper vase, a -sum of something like 120,000 francs in the money of to-day. At No. 42 -opens Rue des Rosiers; roses once grew in gardens there. At No. 43 -Passage des Singes, leading into Rue des Guillemites, once Rue des -Singes. No. 45 shows a façade claiming to date back to the year 1416. -No. 47, hôtel des Ambassadeurs de Hollande, recalling the days when -Dutch diplomats dwelt there and took persecuted Protestants under their -protection, is on the site of the _hôtel_ of Jean de Rieux, before which -the duc d'Orléans met his death at the hands of Jean Sans Peur, the -habitation of historic persons and events until Revolution days, when -it was taken for dancing saloons. Here we see splendid vestiges of past -grandeur: vaulted ceilings, sculptures, frescoes. The Marché des -Blancs-Manteaux, in the street opening at No. 46, is part of an ancient -mansion. Turning down Rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais, recalling the -hospital once there, we find in Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, at No. 35, an -old _hôtel_. At No. 31, l'hôtel d'Albret, its first stone laid in 1550 -by Connétable Anne de Montmorency, restored in the eighteenth century. -At No. 25, one side of the fine hôtel Lamoignon. Crossing Rue des -Rosiers we turn down Rue des Écouffes, an ancient street of pawnbrokers, -where in a house on the site of No. 20, Philippe de Champaigne, the -great painter, lived and died (1674). Rue du Roi de Sicile records the -existence there, and on land around, of the palace of Charles d'Anjou, -brother of St. Louis, crowned King of Naples and Sicily in 1266. The -mansion changed hands many times and in 1698 became the hôtel de la -Grande Force, a noted prison. Part of it became later the Caserne des -Pompiers in Rue Sévigné; the rest was demolished. On the site of the -house No. 2 lived Bault and his wife, jailers of Marie-Antoinette. And -here, at the corner of Rue Malher, Princesse de Lamballe and many of her -compeers were slain in the "Massacres of September." - -Rue Ferdinand-Duval, till 1900 from about the year 1000 Rue des Juifs, -is full of old-time relics. At No. 20 we find a courtyard and _hôtel_ -known in past days as l'hôtel des Juifs. Nos. 18 and 16, site of the -hospital du Petit St-Antoine in pre-Revolution days, of a famous shop -store under the Empire. - -Rue Pavée dates from the early years of the thirteenth century, the -first street in Paris to be paved. Here at Nos. 11 and 13 lived the -duke of Norfolk, British Ambassador in 1533. At No. 12 we find two old -staircases, once those of an ancient _hôtel_ incorporated in the prison -of La Force. At No. 24 stands the fine old hôtel de Lamoignon, rebuilt -on the site of an older structure, by Diane de France, daughter of Henri -II (sixteenth century), the natal house of Lamoignon de Malesherbes, -renowned for his defence of Louis XVI. Alphonse Daudet lived here for a -time. Close by was the prison la Petite Force, a woman's prison, too -well known in Revolution days by numerous notable women of the time. In -Rue de Sévigné, which begins here, we turn at No. 11 into the garden of -a bathing establishment on the site of a smaller hôtel Lamoignon, where -in 1790 Beaumarchais built the théâtre du Marais, otherwise l'Athénée -des Étrangers, with materials from the demolished Bastille. Here we see -before us one single wall of the demolished prison de la Force, and an -indication of the spot where thirty royalist prisoners were put to -death. Rue de Jarente, so named from the Prior of the monastic -institution, Ste-Catherine du Val des Escholiers, erewhile here, shows -us an old fountain in the Impasse de la Poissonnerie. Rue d'Ormesson -stretches across the eighteenth-century priory fish market. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE OLD QUARTIER ST-POL - - -We come now to the interesting old-world quarter behind and surrounding -the church St-Paul and the Lycée Charlemagne, the site of the palace -St-Pol of ancient days. The church, as we see it, dates from 1641, -replacing a tiny Jesuit chapel built in the previous century and -dedicated to St. Louis. Its first stone was laid by Louis XIII, and the -chapel built from the designs of two Jesuit priests, aided by the -architect Vignole. Hence the term _Jesuite_ used in France for the -ornate Renaissance style of architecture we see in the façade of the -church before us. Richelieu, newly ordained, celebrated his first Mass -here in 1641, and defrayed the cost of completing the church by the -erection of the great portal. The heart of Louis XIII and of Louis XIV -were buried here beneath sumptuous monuments. At the Revolution the -_Tiers État_, held their first assembly in the old church St-Pol, soon -razed to the ground by the insurgents. The Jesuits' chapel was saved -from destruction by the books from suppressed convents which had been -piled up within it, forming thus a barricade. The dome was the second -erected in Paris. The holy water scoops were a gift from Victor Hugo at -the baptism of his first child born in the parish. - -[Illustration: RUE ÉGINHARD] - -Turning into Rue St-Paul we see at No. 35 the doorway of the demolished -hôtel de Sève. In the Passage St-Paul, till 1877 Passage St-Louis, we -find at No. 7 the _presbytère_, once, tradition says, a _pied-à-terre_ -of the _grand_ Condé, and at No. 38 an old courtyard. At No. 36 vestiges -of the prison originally part of the convent founded by St. Éloi in the -time of Dagobert.[C] The arched Passage St-Pierre which led in olden -days to the cemetery St-Pol, the burial-place of so many notable -persons: Rabelais, Mansart, etc., and of prisoners from the Bastille, -the man in the iron mask among them, has lately been swept away, with -some walls of the old convent close up against it. The Manège till -recent days at No. 30 was in days past a favourite meeting place of the -people when in disaccord with the authorities in politics or on -industrial questions. At No. 31 we look into Rue Éginhard, the Ruelle -St-Pol of the fourteenth century; the walls of some of its houses once -formed part of the old church St-Pol. At No. 8 we see the square turret -of an old-hôtel St-Maur. At No. 4, l'hôtel de Vieuville, an interesting -fifteenth-and sixteenth-century building, condemned to demolition, which -has been inhabited by notable personages of successive periods. Passing -through the black-walled court we mount a fine old-time staircase to -find halls with beautiful mouldings, a wonderful frescoed ceiling, etc. -etc., all in the possession at present of a well-known antiquarian. No. -5, doorway of l'hôtel de Lignerac. In Rue Ave-Maria, its site covered in -past days by two old convents, we see at No. 15 an _hôtel_ where was -once the tennis-court of the Croix-Noire, in its day the "Illustre -Théâtre" with Molière as its chief and whence the great tragedian was -led for debt to durance vile at the Châtelet. No. 2 was once "la -Boucherie Ave-Maria." - -Rue Charlemagne was known by various names till this last one given in -1844--one of its old names, Rue des Prêtres, is still seen engraved in -the wall at No. 7. The _petit_ Lycée Charlemagne has among its walls -part of one of the ancient towers of the boundary wall of -Philippe-Auguste which passed in a straight line to the Seine at this -point. It is known as Tour Montgomery and shelters a ... gas meter! The -remains of another tower are seen behind the gymnasium. Before 1908 the -last remaining walls of the hôtel du Prévôt still stood in Passage -Charlemagne, a picturesque turreted Renaissance bit of "Old Paris" let -out in tenements, the last vestiges of the historic mansion where many -notable persons, royal and other, had sojourned. Interesting old-time -features are seen at Nos. 18, 21, 22, 25; No. 25 underwent restoration -in recent years. - -[Illustration: RUE DU PRÉVÔT] - -In Rue du Prévôt we see more old-time vestiges. Rue du Figuier dates -from about 1300 when a fig-tree flourished there, cut down three -centuries later. Nos. 19-15, now a Jewish hospice, was the abode of the -Miron, royal physicians from 1550 to 1680. Every house shows some -relic. At No. 5 we come upon an old well and steps in the courtyard. No. -8 was perhaps the home of Rabelais. At No. 1 we find ourselves before -the turreted hôtel de Sens, built between 1474 and 1519, on the site of -a private mansion given by Charles V to the archbishops of Sens, who at -that time had ecclesiastical jurisdiction over Paris. Ecclesiastics of -historic fame, and at one time Marguerite de Valois, la Reine Margot, -dwelt there during the succeeding 150 years. Then Paris became an -archbishopric, and this fine hôtel de Sens was abandoned--let. It has -served as a coaching house, a jam manufactory, finally became a glass -store and factory, and in part a Jewish synagogue. In Rue du Fauconnier, -Nos. 19, 17, 15, are ancient. Rue des Jardins, where stretched the -gardens of the old Palais St-Pol, has none but ancient houses. At No. 5 -we see a hook which served of yore to hold the chain stretched across -the street to close it. Molière lived there in 1645. Rabelais died -there. - -[Illustration: HÔTEL DE SENS] - -Crossing Rue St-Paul we come to Rue des Lions, recalling the royal -menagerie once there. Fine old mansions lie along its whole length. At -No. 10 we find a beautiful staircase; another at No. 12, dating from the -reign of Louis XIII, and in the courtyard at No. 3 we see an ancient -fountain. At No. 14 there was till recent times the fountain "du regard -des lions." No. 17 formed part of l'hôtel Vieuville. Chief among the -ancient houses of Rue Charles V is No. 12, l'hôtel d'Antoine d'Aubray, -father of the notorious woman-poisoner, la Brinvilliers, with its -graceful winding staircase. Here Mme de Brinvilliers tried to bring -about the assassination of her lover Briancourt by her other lover -Ste-Croix. Nuns, nursing sisters, live there now. Rue Beautreillis was -in bygone days the site of a vine-covered trellis in the gardens of the -historic palace St-Pol made up of l'hôtel Beautreillis and other fine -_hôtels_ confiscated from his nobles by King Charles V, and at No. 1 we -see an ancient and truly historic vine climbing a trellis, its origin -lost in the mist of centuries. Is it really, as some would have it, a -relic of the vines that gave grapes for the table of Charles V? All the -houses here are ancient. No. 10 was the mansion of the duc de -Valentinois, prince de Monaco in 1640. We see ancient houses along Rue -du Petit Musc, a fourteenth-century street. No. 1 is the south side of -l'École Massillon (_see_ p. 326). We cross boulevard Henri IV to the -Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, its walls in part, the Arsenal built by Henri -IV on the site of a more ancient one, restored in the first half of the -eighteenth century, its façade entirely rebuilt under Napoléon III. The -name of Sully given to the bridge and the street reminds us that the -statesman lived at the Arsenal. There Mme de Brinvilliers was tried and -condemned to death. The Arsenal was done away with by Louis XVI, streets -cut across the site of most of its demolished walls. What remained -became the library we see; it has counted among its librarians men of -special distinction: Nodier, Hérédia, etc., and is now under the -direction of the well-known man of letters Funck-Brentano. Various -relics of past days and of old-time inhabitants are to be seen there and -traces of the boundary wall of Charles V. Rue de la Cerisaie, hard by, -is another street recalling the palace gardens--for cherry-trees then -grew here. On the site of No. 10 Gabrielle d'Estrées was seized with her -last illness while at the supper-table of its owner, the friend of her -loyal lover. The houses here are all ancient and characteristic, as are -also those in Rue Lesdiguières where till the first years of this -present century the wall of a dependency of the Bastille still stood. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -LA PLACE DES VOSGES - - -Here we are on the old Place Royale--the _place_ where royalties dwelt -and courtiers disported in the days of Louis XIII, whose statue we see -still in the centre of the big, dreary garden square. That statue was -put there by Napoléon to replace the original one, carted away and -melted down in Revolutionary days when the _ci-devant_ Place Royale -became Place des Fédérés, then Place de l'Indivisibilité. Napoléon first -named it Place des Vosges, a name confirmed after 1870 as a tribute of -gratitude to the department which had first paid up its share of the war -contribution. In the early centuries of the Bourbon kings the palace of -the Tournelles had stood here (see p. 8). After its demolition the site -was taken for a horse market, and there the famous duel was fought -between the _mignons_ of Henri II and the followers of the duc de Guise. -Henri IV created the Place and had it parcelled out for building -purposes. His idea was to make it the centre of a number of streets or -avenues each bearing the name of one of the provinces of France. The -King died and that project was not carried out, but the extensive site -was soon the square of the fine mansions we see to-day, mansions fallen -from their high estate, no longer the private abodes of the world of -fashion, but standing unchanged in outward aspect. - -We see the Pavillon du Roi on the south side facing Rue de Birague, once -Rue du Pavillon du Roi, where at No. 11 was born Mme de Sévigné (1626); -opposite it the Pavillon de la Reine. At No. 7 the _petit_ hôtel Sully -connected with the _grand_ hôtel Sully of the Rue St-Antoine. Each house -of the _place_ was inhabited and known by the name of a great noble or a -wealthy financier. Their enumeration would take too much space here. At -No. 6 we see the house where Victor Hugo lived in more modern -times--1833-48--now the Musée filled with souvenirs of his life and work -and dedicated to his memory. Behind it, at the corner of Impasse -Guénémée, is the _hôtel_ once the dwelling of Marion Delorme. Théophile -Gautier, and later Alphonse Daudet occupied a flat at No. 8. Passing out -of the _place_ through Rue du Pas de la Mule, in its day "petite Rue -Royale," we turn into Rue St-Antoine, where modern buildings are almost -unknown, and vestiges of bygone ages are seen on every side. At No. 5 an -inscription tells us this was the site of the courtyard of the Bastille -through which the populace rushed in attack on the 14th July, 1789. At -No. 7 we remark an ancient sign "A la Renommée de la Friture." At No. 17 -we see what remains of the convent built by Mansart in 1632, on the site -of the hôtel de Cossé, where for eighteen years St. Vincent de Paul was -confessor. The chapel, left intact, was given to the Protestants in -1802. Here Fouquet and his son, Mme de Chantal, and the Marquis de -Sévigné were buried. No. 20 is l'hôtel de Mayenne et d'Ormesson, -sixteenth or seventeenth century, on the site of an older _hôtel_ sold -to Charles V to enlarge his palace St-Pol. It passed through many hands, -royal hands for the most part, and the building as we see it, or the -previous structure, was for a time the hôtel de Diane de Poitiers. In -modern times it became the Pension Favart, then in 1870, l'École des -Francs-Bourgeois under the direction of les Frères de la doctrine -chrétienne. At No. 28 Impasse Guénémée, known in its fifteenth-century -days as Cul-de-Sac du Ha! Ha! a passage connected with the hôtel -Rohan-Guénémée in Place Royale. In the seventeenth century a convent -was built here, a sort of reformatory for erring girls and women of the -upper classes who were shut up here in consequence of _lettres de -cachet_. At No. 62 stands the hôtel de Sully. Its first owner staked the -mansion at the gambling table and lost. At No. 101 we are before the -Lycée Charlemagne, built in 1804 on the site of two ancient mansions and -of the old city wall, of which some traces still remain. At No. 133 we -see the Maison Séguier, with its fine old door, balcony and staircase; -another old house at No. 137; then this ancient thoroughfare becomes in -these modern days, Rue François-Miron (_see_ p. 104). - -[Illustration: RUE DE BIRAGUE, PLACE DES VOSGES] - -Rue des Tournelles in this earlier part of its course is chiefly -interesting for the fine _hôtel_ at No. 28, built in 1690, decorated -with frescoes by Lebrun and Mignard, where the famous courtesan, Ninon -de Lenclos, lived and died. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -THE BASTILLE - - -So we come to Place de la Bastille. - -The famous prison which stood there from the end of the fourteenth -century to the memorable summer of 1789, was built by Hugues Aubriot, -Prévôt du Roi, as a fortified castle to protect the palais St-Pol close -by, and Paris in general, against hostile inroads from the country -beyond. Its form is well known. A perfect model of it is to be seen at -Carnavalet, in that most interesting _salle_--the Bastille-room. It had -eight towers each 23 mètres high, each with its distinct name and use. -White lines in the pavement of the _place_ show where some of its walls, -some of its towers rose, houses stand upon the site of others. The great -military citadel became a regular prison in the time of Charles VI--a -military prison, though civilians were from the first shut up there from -time to time. Aubriot himself was put there by the mob, to be quickly -released by the King. Under Richelieu it became a State prison, the -prison of _lettres de cachet_ notoriety. The Revolutionists attacked it -in the idea that untold harshness, cruelty, injustice dominated there. -As a matter of fact, the Bastille was for years rather a luxurious place -of retirement for persons who themselves wished or were desired by -others to lie low for a time, than a fort of durance vile. The last -governor, M. de Launay, in particular, was generous and kind even to -the humblest of those placed beneath his rule. And we know the attacking -mob found seven prisoners only--two madmen, the others acknowledged -criminals. M. de Launay was massacred nevertheless. The Revolutionists -seized all the arms they could find, a goodly store; the walls were -razed soon afterwards and a board put up with the words "Ici on dance." -In reality the attack upon the Bastille was a milder under-taking than -is generally supposed, and its entire destruction took place later on in -quite a business-like way by a contractor. - -[Illustration: LA BASTILLE] - -The _place_ was finished in 1803. The Colonne de Juillet we see there -dates from 1831. The bones of the victims of the two minor Revolutions -(1830-48) are beneath it. Louis Philippe's throne was burnt before it in -1848. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -IN THE VICINITY OF TWO ANCIENT CHURCHES - - -ARRONDISSEMENT V. PANTHÉON. RIVE GAUCHE (LEFT BANK) - -Crossing the Seine by the Pont St-Michel we reach Place St-Michel, of -which we will speak in another chapter, as it lies chiefly in -arrondissement VI. Turning to the east, we come upon two of the oldest -and most interesting of Paris churches and a very network of ancient -streets, sordid enough some of them, but emphatically characteristic. -Rue de la Huchette dates from the twelfth century; there in olden days -two very opposite classes plied their trade:--the _rotisseurs_--turnspits, -and the diamond cutters. The old street is still of some renown in the -district for good cooking in the few restaurants of a humble order that -remain. The erewhile Bouillon de la Huchette is now a _bal_. Once upon -a time Ambassadors dined at l'hôtellerie de l'Ange in this old street. -And the name "Le Petit Caporal" tells its own tale. There Buonaparte, -friendless and penniless, lodged in the street's decadent days. Rue -Zacharie, dark and narrow between its tall old houses, dates back to -the twelfth or early thirteenth century. Rue du Chat qui Pêche, less -ancient (sixteenth century), is a mere pathway between high walls. From -Rue Zacharie we turn into Rue St-Séverin, one of the most ancient -of ancient streets. Many traces of past ages still remain despite -the demolition of old houses around the beautiful old church we see -before us, and subterranean passages run beneath the soil. At No. -26 and again at No. 4 we see the name of the street, the word Saint -obliterated by the Revolutionists. The church porch gives on Rue de -Prêtres-St-Séverin--thirteenth century. It was brought here from the -thirteenth-century church St-Pierre-aux-Boeufs, razed in 1837. Till then -the entrance had been the old door, Rue St-Séverin, where we see still -the words, half effaced: "Bonne gens, qui par cy passées, priez Dieu -pour les trepassés," and the figures of two lions, once on the church -steps, where the Clergy of the parish were wont of yore to administer -justice: hence the phrase "Datum inter leones." The church was built -in the twelfth century, on the site of a chapel erected in the days -of Childebert, over the tomb of Séverin, the hermit. Thrice restored, -partially rebuilt, the beautiful edifice shows Gothic architecture in -its three stages: primitive: porch, side door, three bays; rayonnant: -the tower and part of the nave and side aisle; flamboyant: chancel and -the splendid apse. Glorious stained glass, beautiful frescoes--modern, -the work of Flandrin, fine statues surround us here. A striking feature -is the host of votive offerings, some a mere slab a few inches in size -with the simple word "Merci" and a date. Many refer to the successful -passing of examinations, for we are in the vicinity of the University. -The presbytery and its garden cover what was once the graveyard. Some of -the old _charniers_ still remain. - -[Illustration: RUE ST-SÉVERIN] - -[Illustration: ÉGLISE ST-SÉVERIN] - -Rue de la Parcheminerie (thirteenth century), in part demolished -recently, in its early days Rue des Escrivains, was for long the -exclusive habitation of whoever had to do with the making and selling of -books. The "hôtel des Pères Tranquilles" once there has gone. Two old -houses, Nos. 6 and 7, were in the thirteenth-century dependencies of -Norwich Cathedral for English student-monks. In Rue Boutebrie, one side -entirely rebuilt of late, dwelt the illuminators of sixteenth-century -scrolls and books. We see a characteristic ancient gable at No. 6. -This house and No. 8 have ancient staircases. Crossing Rue St-Jacques we -turn into Rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, "le Vieux Chemin" of past times. -Through the old arched doorway we see there, surmounted by a figure of -Justice, was the abode of a notable eighteenth-century Governor of the -Petit-Châtelet, whose duty was that of hearing both sides in student -quarrels and pronouncing judgment. The church we see was the University -church of the twelfth and several succeeding centuries. University -meetings were held there and many a town and gown riot, or a merely gown -riot, took place within its walls. The slab above the old door tells of -its cession to the administrators of the hôtel-Dieu in 1655. Some of its -stones date from the ninth or, maybe, from an even earlier century; for -the church before us was a rebuilding in the twelfth of one erected in -the ninth century to replace the hostel and chapel built there in the -sixth century and overthrown by the Normans--the hostel where Gregory of -Tours had made a stay. The ancient Gothic portal and two bays falling to -decay were lopped off in 1560. The well we see in the courtyard was once -within the church walls. Another well of miracle-working fame, on the -north side, had a conduit to the altar. Passing through a door near the -vestry we find ourselves on the site of the ancient _annexe_ of the -hôtel-Dieu, razed a few years ago, and see on one side the chevet of the -church with its quaint belfry and flight of steps on the roof, on the -other a high, strong, moss-grown wall said to be a remnant of the -boundary wall of Philippe-Auguste. In 1802 the church was given to the -Greek Catholics of Paris--Melchites. The _iconostase_, therefore, very -beautiful, is an important feature. We see some very ancient statues, -and a more modern one of Montyon, founder of the Virtue-prizes -bestowed annually by the Académie Française. - -[Illustration: HÔTEL LOUIS XV, RUE DE LA PARCHEMINERIE] - -In Rue Galande, what remains of it, we see several interesting old -houses, and on the door of No. 42 a bas-relief showing St. Julien in a -ship. Rue du Fouarre, one side gone save for a single house, once Rue -des Escholiers, recalls the decree of Pope Urban V that students of the -Schools must hear lectures humbly sitting on the ground on bundles of -straw which they were bound themselves to provide. Benches were too -luxurious for the students of those days. In this street of the "Écoles -des Quatre Nations," France, Normandie, Alsace, Picardie, Dante listened -to the instruction of Brunetto Latini. No. 8 with its old door is on the -site of the "École de Normandie." The street close by, named in memory -of the great Italian poet, is modern. In Rue Domat stood, till the -nineteenth century, the walls of the suppressed convent de Cornouailles -founded by a Breton in 1317. Rue des Anglais, the resort of English -students from the time of Philippe-Auguste, was famous till recent days -for the Cabaret du Père Lunette, about to be razed. The first Père -Lunette went about his business wearing enormous spectacles. The second -landlord of the inn, gaining possession of its founder's "specs," wore -them as a badge, slung across his chest. Rue de l'hôtel Colbert has no -reference to the statesman. In early times it was Rue des Rats. Rue des -Trois-Portes recalls the thirteenth-century days when three houses only -formed the street. No. 10, connected with No. 13 Rue de la Bûcherie, the -log-selling street, shows us the ancient "Faculté de Médicine," -surrounded in past days by the garden, the first of the kind, where -medical men and medical students cultivated the herbs necessary for -their physic. The interesting old Gothic structure, more than once -threatened with demolition, has been classed as an historical monument, -under State care therefore, and reconstructed as the Maison des -Étudiants. The students were very keen about the completion of their new -house on its time-honoured site, and when the masons in course of -reconstruction went on strike, the young men threw aside their books, -donned a workman's jacket, or failing that doffed their coats and rolled -up their shirt-sleeves and set to work with all youth's ardour as -bricklayers. Their zeal was greater, however, than their technical -knowledge or their physical fitness, and their work left much to be -desired, as the French say. Then fortunately the strike ended. - -[Illustration: ST-JULIEN-LE-PAUVRE] - -[Illustration: BAS-RELIEF, RUE GALANDE] - -Place Maubert, named after the second vicar of Ste-Geneviève, M. Aubert, -was the great meeting-place of students, and here Maître Albert, the -distinguished Dominican professor, surnamed "le Grand," his name -recorded by a neighbouring street, gave his lectures in the open air. -Executions also took place here. In Impasse Maubert dwelt Ste-Croix, the -lover and accomplice of the poisoner Mme de Brinvilliers, and in Rue des -Grand Degrés Voltaire in his youth worked in a lawyer's office. The -cellars of Rue Maître-Albert are said to have been prison cells; at No. -13 the negro page Zamor, whose denunciation led Mme Dubarry to the -scaffold, died in misery in 1820. No. 16 was the meeting-place of the -Communards in 1871. - -Rue de la Bièvre reminds us that the tributary of the Seine, now a -turgid drain, closely covered, once joined the mother-river here. -Tradition says Dante made his abode here while in Paris. Over the door -of No. 12 we see a statue of St-Michel slaying the dragon. This was -originally a college founded in his own house in 1348 by Guillaume de -Chanac, bishop of Paris, for twelve poor scholars of the diocese of -Limoges. - -In Rue des Bernardins we see the church St-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, -St-Nicolas of the Thistle-field, built in the seventeenth century upon -the site of a thirteenth-century structure erected where till then -thistles had run riot. It was designed by a parishioner of mark, the -painter Lebrun, enriched by his paintings and those of other artists of -note. The tomb of his mother is within its walls and a monument to his -memory by Coysevox. Rue St-Victor recalls the abbey, once on the site -where now we see the Halle-aux-Vins. There Maurice de Sulli, builder of -Notre-Dame, died and was buried in 1196. Hither, to its famous school, -came Abelard, St. Thomas à Becket, St. Bernard. It was razed to the -ground in 1809. At Nos. 24-26 we saw till just recently the ancient -seminary of St-Nicolas, closed since 1906, with its long rows of -old-world windows, seventy-two panes on one story; the college buildings -were at the corner of Rue Pontoise, a street opened in 1772 as a -calf-market and named from the town noted for its excellent veal. And -here we find at No. 19 vestiges of the ancient convent of the -Bernardins. Rue de Poissy has more important remains of the convent and -of its college, founded in 1245 by the English Abbé de Clairvaux, -Stephen Lexington, aided by a brother of St. Louis. The grand old walls -now serve as the Caserne des Pompiers--the Fire Station. Within we find -beautiful old-time Gothic work, a fine staircase, arched naves, tall, -slender pillars--the refectory of the monks of yore; and beneath it -vaulted cellars with some seventy pillars and ancient bays. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -IN THE REGION OF THE SCHOOLS - - -THE SORBONNE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - -When St. Louis was on the throne of France the physician attendant upon -his mother, la Reine Blanche, died bequeathing a sum of money for the -institution of a college of theology. In consequence thereof Robert de -Sorbon built the school for theological study, a very simple erection -then, which developed into the great college adapted to studies of the -most varied character, known as the Sorbonne: that was in the year 1253. -Two hundred years later the first printing press in France was set up -there. In another nigh upon two hundred years Richelieu, elected Grand -Master of the college, built its church and rebuilt the surrounding -structure. Napoléon set the college in action on a vaster scale, after -its suppression at the Revolution, by making it the seat of the Académie -de Paris, the "home" of the Faculties of Letters and Science, as well as -of Theology. But the edifice was then again crumbling--in need of -rebuilding. Time passed, ruin made headway. Plans were made, and in 1853 -the first stone of a new structure was laid. It remained a first stone -and a last one for many years. The modern walls we see were not built -till the close of the nineteenth century, finished in 1901. In the great -courtyard white lines mark the site of Richelieu's edifice. The vast -building is richly decorated with statuary and frescoes. In its church -Richelieu seems still to hold sway. We see his coat-of-arms on every -side; over his tomb, the work of Girardon, hangs his Cardinal's hat. -Another handsome monument covers the tomb of his descendant, the -minister of Louis XVIII. Many generations of Richelieu lie in the vault -beneath the chapel floor. The church is dismantled and partially -secularized. Grand classic concerts are held there during the Sundays of -term each year, but the Richelieu have still the right to be baptized, -married, buried there; the altar therefore has not been undraped. - -Exactly opposite the Sorbonne, on its Rue des Écoles side, is the -beautiful Musée de Cluny, on the site of the ancient Palais des Thermes -of which the ruins are seen in the grounds bordered by the boulevard -St-Germain. The palace dates from Roman days. Julian was proclaimed -Emperor there. We see an altar from the time of Tiberius. The remains of -Roman baths--vestiges of the _frigidarium_, the _tepidarium_, the -_hypocaustum_, traces of the pipes through which the water flowed are -still there. In the fourteenth century Pierre de Chaslun, Abbot of -Cluny, bought the ruins of the ancient palace, and the exquisite Gothic -mansion we see was built close up against them. Many illustrious persons -found shelter within the home of the Abbots during the centuries that -followed. James V of Scotland stayed there. Men of learning were made -welcome there. In later times its tower was used as an observatory. The -Revolution put an end to the state and prestige of the beautiful -mansion. It was sold, parcelled out to a number of buyers, put to all -sorts of common and commercial uses, till, in 1833, M. de Sommerard, -whose name is given to the street on its northern side, acquired it -and set up there his own precious collection of things beautiful, the -nucleus of the Museum. The whole property was taken over later by the -Beaux-Arts under State protection for conservation. In the garden -numerous interesting relics of ancient churches, that of St-Benoît which -once stood near, and others, are carefully preserved. - -[Illustration: LE MUSÉE DE CLUNY] - -Rue Jean-de-Beauvais was in bygone days inhabited entirely by printers. -The Roumanian chapel there was the chapel of the famous College -Dormans-Beauvais, founded in 1370. Rue de Latran--modern--runs across -the site of the ancient _commanderie_ of the Knights of St. John of -Jerusalem. - -In Rue des Carmes, dating from 1250, we see at No. 15 the ancient -College des Lombards, now the Cercle Catholique d'Ouvriers, founded -1334, rebuilt under Louis XIV by two Irish priests. The little chapel -there, dedicated now to "Jesus Ouvrier," is paved with the gravestones -of the Irish clergy who came of yore to live and study there. - -Rue Basse des Carmes stretches across the site of the demolished -Carmelite Convent. We are close now to the Collège de France, le Lycée -Louis-le-Grand and l'École Polytechnique. - -Le Collège de France, Rue des Écoles, its beautiful west façade giving -on Rue St-Jacques, was founded as an institution by François I (1530); -its lectures were to be given in different colleges. The edifice before -us replaces this "Collège Royal," built in the early years of the -seventeenth century, destroyed in the eighteenth century. It dates from -1778, the work of Chalgrin. Additions were made in the nineteenth -century. The numerous finely executed busts of noted scholars and -eminent professors are the work of the best sculptors of each period. - -The Lycée Louis-le-Grand, Rue St-Jacques, on the site of four colleges -of bygone ages, dates in its foundation from 1550, rebuilt 1814-20, -restored 1861-85. In the court we see some of the ancient walls. It has -borne different names characteristic of the different periods of the -history of France. It began as the Collège de Clermont, from its -founder, the bishop; in 1682 it took the name of the King, -Louis-le-Grand. In 1792 it became Collège de l'Égalité; in 1800, Le -Pyrtanée; Lycée Imperial in 1802; Collège Royal-Louis-le-Grand in 1814; -Lycée Descartes in 1848, to revert to its present designation in 1849. -Many of the most eminent men of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries -were pupils there. - -The Collège Ste-Barbe built in the sixteenth century was added to -Louis-le-Grand in 1764. Its tower goes by the name Tour Calvin, for this -was the Huguenot quarter. Here many of the persecuted Protestants were -in hiding at the Massacre of St. Bartholomew. Yet it was at Ste-Barbe -that Ignatius Loyola was educated. - -Close around Lycée Louis-le-Grand and the Collège de France, we find a -number of twelfth-and thirteenth-century streets condemned to -demolition, some of their houses already razed, those that remain -showing many interesting relics. Rue du Cimetière-St-Benoît, which -bordered the cemetery erewhile there; Rue Fromantel, the name a -corruption of _froid mantel_, or _manteau_, with its interesting -old-world dwellings; Impasse Chartrière, where at No. 2 we see an old -sign and a niche of the time of Henri IV, who was wont to visit his -"belle Gabrielle" here. No. 11 was, it is said, the entrance to the -King's stables. At the junction of Rue Lanneau four streets form the -quadrangle where was erewhile the well "Certain," so named after the -vicar of the old church St-Hilaire, once close by, discovered beneath -the roadway in 1894. Roman remains of great interest were found at that -time below the surface of all these streets. Rue Valette, eleventh -century, was once Rue des Sept Voies, for seven thoroughfares met there. -At No. 2, in the billiard-room of the old inn, we find vestiges of the -church St-Hilaire, once there. No. 19 dates from the fourteenth century, -and in the seventeenth century was a meeting-place of the Huguenots who -hid in its Gothic two-storied cellars. In Rue Laplace lived Jean de -Meung, author of _Le Roman de la Rose_. At No. 12 we see the entrance of -a vanished college, next door to which was the Collège des Écossais. - -L'École Polytechnique stands on the site of the college founded in 1304 -by Jeanne de Navarre, wife of Philippe le Bel, for seventy poor -scholars. It was rebuilt in the fifteenth century. The last vestiges of -that rebuilding, a beautiful Gothic chapel, were swept away in 1875. -Traces of a Roman cemetery were found in 1906. The present structure -dates from the eighteenth century, the work of Gabriel. The house of the -Général-Commandant is the ancient Collège de Boncourt, founded in 1357. - -In Rue Clovis, at the summit of the Montagne Ste-Geneviève stands the -Lycée Henri IV, dating as a school from 1796, known for several -subsequent years as Lycée-Napoléon. It recalls vividly the abbey which -once stood there. Its tower, known as the "Tour de Clovis," rises from -the foundations of the eleventh-century abbey tower and was for long -used as the Paris Observatory. The college kitchen is one of the -ancient abbey cellars--cellars in three stories. Some of the walls -before us date from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The library -founded by Cardinal de la Rochefoucauld is the boys' dormitory. A -cloister and seventeenth-century refectory are there intact. The pupils -go up and down a fine eighteenth-century staircase, and study amid -interesting frescoes and much beautiful woodwork. New buildings were -added to the ancient ones in 1873. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -LA MONTAGNE STE-GENEVIÈVE - - -Rue de la Montagne Ste-Geneviève, leading to the hill-top from Boulevard -St-Germain, went in twelfth-century days by the unæsthetic name Rue des -Boucheries. Nearly every wall, every stone is ancient. In past ages -three colleges at different positions stood on its incline. The sign at -No. 40 dates from the time of the Directoire. A statuette of the saint -there in Revolution days was labelled, "A la ci-devant Geneviève; -Rendez-vous des Sans-Culottes." And now we have before us the beautiful -old church St-Etienne-du-Mont. The _place_, in very early times a -graveyard, was laid out as a square in the fourteenth century and the -church burial ground was on the north-western side. The present church -dates as a whole from the early years of the seventeenth century, built -on the site of a thirteenth-century chapel dedicated to St-Etienne. The -_abside_ and the choir were built in early sixteenth-century years, -close up against the old basilic of the abbey Ste-Geneviève. Among the -people the church is still often referred to as l'Église Ste-Geneviève, -chiefly, no doubt, because the tomb of the patron saint of Paris is -there. The original _châsse_--a richly jewel-studded shrine--was -destroyed at the Revolution, melted down, its gems confiscated, the -bones of the Saint burnt. The stone coffin cast aside as valueless was -recovered, filled with such relics of Ste-Geneviève as could be -collected from far and near, and is now in the sumptuous shrine to which -pilgrimages are continually made. A smaller _châsse_ is solemnly carried -round the aisles of the church each year during the "neuvaine" following -January 3rd, the revered Saint's fête day, when services are held all -day long, while on the _place_ without a religious fair goes on ... -souvenirs of Ste-Geneviève and objects of piety of every description are -offered for sale on the stalls set up upon the _place_ from end to end. -The church, showing three distinct styles of architecture, Romanesque, -Gothic, Renaissance, is especially remarkable for its rood-screen--the -only one left in a Paris church. It is rich, too, in exquisite stained -glass, beautiful woodwork, fine statuary. We see inscriptions and -epitaphs referring to Pascal, Rollin and many other men of note, buried -in the church crypt or in the graveyard of past days. - -[Illustration: ST-ÉTIENNE-DU-MONT] - -The Panthéon, the most conspicuous if not the most ancient or most -seductive building of this hill-top, was begun as a new church -Ste-Geneviève. Louis XV, lying dangerously ill at Metz, made a vow to -build on his recovery a church dedicated to the patron saint of Paris. -It was not begun till 1755, not solidly constructed then; slips followed -the erection of its walls, threatening collapse, and Soufflot, the -architect, died of grief thereat. The catastrophe feared did not happen; -the building was consolidated. Instead, however, of remaining a church -it was declared, in the Revolutionary year 1791, the Panthéon, with the -inscription, "Aux Grands Hommes de France, la Patrie reconnaissante." -Napoléon restored it to the ecclesiastical authorities at the Concordat. -In 1830 it became again the Panthéon; was once more a church in -1851--then the Panthéon for good--so far--in 1885, when the body of -Victor Hugo was carried there in great state. Its façade is copied from -the Panthéon of Agrippa at Rome. It is noted for its frescoes -illustrative of the life of Ste-Geneviève, by Gros, Chavannes, Laurens -and other nineteenth-century artists. Rodin's "Penseur" below the -peristyle was put there in 1906. - -[Illustration: INTERIOR OF ST-ÉTIENNE-DU-MONT (JUBÉ)] - -The Faculté de Droit, No. 10, is Soufflot's work (1772-1823). The -Bibliothèque Ste-Geneviève, quite modern (1884), covers the site of the -demolished Collège Montaigu, founded in 1314. Ignatius Loyola, Erasmus -and Calvin were pupils there. All the surrounding streets stretch along -the site of ancient buildings, convents, monasteries, etc., swept away -but leaving here and there interesting traces. In Rue Lhomond débris of -the potteries once there have been unearthed. Michelet lived for a time -at the ancient hôtel de Flavacourt. No. 10, incorporated later in the -École Ste-Geneviève, of which the chief entrance door is a vestige of -the hôtel de Juigné, was the private abode of the Archbishop of Paris in -pre-Revolution days. Another part of the school was the home of Abbé -Edgeworth, confessor to Louis XVI in his last days. Yet another was the -Séminaire des Anglais, founded under Louis XIV. We find a fine façade -and balconies in the courtyard at No. 29, once the abode of a religious -community, now the lay "Institution Lhomond." - -The Séminaire des Missions des Colonies Françaises at No. 30 dates from -the time of Louis XIV. Fine staircase and chapel. The cellars of the -modern houses from No. 48 to No. 54 are those of the convent which -erewhile stood above them. - -In Rue des Irlandais we see the college founded in 1755 for Irish, -Scottish and English priest-students. In Rue Rataud, once Rue des -Vignes, which led to a cemetery for persons who had died of the plague, -is, at No. 3, the orphanage of l'Enfant Jésus, formerly "Les Cent -Filles," where the duchesse d'Angoulême, daughter of Louis XVI, had -fifty young orphan girls educated yearly at her own expense. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -IN THE VALLEY OF THE BIÈVRE - - -Emphatically a street of the past is the old Rue Mouffetard, its name a -corruption perhaps of Mont Cérarius, the name of the district under the -Romans, or derived maybe from the old word _mouffettes_, referring to -the exhalations of the Bièvre, flowing now below ground here, never very -odorous since the days when, coming sweet and clear from the southern -slopes, it was put to city uses, industrial and other, on entering -Paris. Every house along the course of this street has some curious -old-time feature, an ancient sign, an old well, old doors, old -courtyards. Quaint old streets lead out of it. The market on the _place_ -by the old church St-Médard extends up its slope. - -In the sordid shops which flourish on the ground-floor of almost every -house, or on stalls set on the threshold, one sees an assortment of -foodstuffs rarely brought together in any other corner of the city, and -articles of clothing of most varied kind and style and date. - -The church dating from the twelfth century, partially rebuilt and -restored in later times, was for several centuries a dependency of the -abbey Ste-Geneviève. Its graveyard, for long past a market-place and a -square, was in the eighteenth century the scene of the notorious -_scandale Médard_. Among the graves of noted Jansenists buried there -miraculous cures were supposed to take place. Women and girls fell into -ecstasies. The number of these convulsionists grew daily. At last the -King, Louis XV, ordered the cemetery to be closed. A witty inhabitant of -the district managed to get near one of the tombstones the morning after -the King's command was made known and wrote thereon: - - "De par le Roi, défense à Dieu - De faire miracle en ce lieu." - -[Illustration: RUE MOUFFETARD ET ST-MÉDARD] - -It is the parish of the Gobelins and a beautiful piece of Gobelins -tapestry hangs over the vestry door. Fragments of ancient glass, a -picture by Watteau, others by Philippe de Champaigne, beautiful woodwork -and the quaintness of its architecture make the old church intensely -interesting. - -At No. 81 of this old-time street we find vestiges of a -seventeenth-century chapel. At No. 52 ancient gravestones. The fountain -at No. 60 dates from 1671. The house No. 9 is on the site of the Porte -Marcel of bygone days. - -Rue Broca, in the vicinity of St-Médard, dating from the twelfth -century, when it was Rue de Lourcine, has many curious old houses. The -houses of Rue du Pôt-de-fer are all ancient, as are most of those in Rue -St-Médard. At No. 1 of Place de la Contre Scarpe close by, a modern -_place_, an inscription marks the site of the Cabaret de la "Pomme de -Pin," celebrated by the eulogies of Ronsard and Rabelais. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -RUE ST-JACQUES - - -Passing amid the ancient colleges and churches, streets and houses we -have been visiting, runs the old Rue St-Jacques. It begins at the banks -of the Seine, stretches through the whole arrondissement, to become on -leaving it a faubourg. - -The line it follows was in a long-past age the Roman road from Lutetia -to Orléans--the Via Superior--_la grande rue_--of early Paris history. -Along its course in Roman times the Aqueduc d'Arcueil brought water from -Rungis to the Palace of the Thermes (_see_ p. 138). It is from end to -end a long line of old-time buildings or vestiges of those swept away. -The famous couvent des Jacobins extended across the site of the -Bibliothèque de l'École de Droit and adjacent structures. At No. 172 -stood the Porte St-Jacques in Philippe-Auguste's great wall. - -We see a fine old door at No. 5, a house with two-storied cellars. At a -house on the site of No. 218 Jean de Meung wrote the _Roman de la Rose_. -The famous poem was published lower down in the same street. - -The church St-Jacques-du-Haut-Pas stands on the high ground we reach at -No. 252, a seventeenth-century structure on the site of a chapel built -in the fourteenth century by the monks from Italy known as the -_Pontifici_, makers of bridges constructed to give pilgrims the means -of crossing a _mau pas_ or _mauvais pas_, i.e. a dangerous or difficult -passage in rivers or roads. The beautiful woodwork within the -church--that of the organ and pulpit--was brought here from the ancient, -demolished church St-Benoît (_see_ p. 140). We notice several good -pictures. The fine stained glass once here was all smashed at the -Revolution. The hôpital Cochin memorizes in the name of its founder an -eighteenth-century vicar there. The churchyard was where Rue de -l'Abbé-de-l'Épée now runs, known at one time as Ruelle du -Cimetière-St-Jacques. - -No. 254 _bis_, the national Deaf and Dumb Institution, is the ancient -_commanderie_ of the Frères hospitaliers de St-Jacques-du-Haut-Pas--the -Pontifici--given for the purpose in 1790, partly rebuilt in 1823. The -statue of Abbé de l'Épée, inventor of the alphabet for the deaf and -dumb, in the court is the work of a deaf and dumb sculptor. The trunk of -the tree we see near it is said to be that of an elm planted there by -Sully three hundred years ago. At No. 262 we see vestiges of a -_vacherie_, once the farm St-Jacques. At No. 261 we may turn into Rue -des Feuillantines, where at No. 10 we see vestiges of the convent that -was at one time in part the abode of George Sand, then of Mme Hugo, -mother of the poet, and her children; later Jules Sardou lived in the -_impasse_, now merged in the _rue_. At No. 269 we find some walls of the -monastery founded by English Benedictines in 1640, to which a few years -later they added a chapel dedicated to St. Edmond. The fabric is still -the property of English bishops. It is used as a great music school: -"Maison de la Schola Cantorum." The door seen between two fine old -pillars at No. 284 led in olden days to the Carmelite convent where -Louise de la Vallière took definite refuge and acted as "sacristan" -till her death; Rue du Val-de-Grâce runs where the convent stood.[D] - -The military hospital Val-de-Grâce was founded as a convent early in the -seventeenth century. Anne d'Autriche installed there the impoverished -Benedictines of Val Parfond, or Profond, evacuated from their quarters -hard by owing to an inundation from the Bièvre. In their gratitude they -changed their name: the nuns of Val Profond became sisters of -Val-de-Grâce. In 1645 Louis XIV, the child Anne d'Autriche had so -ardently prayed for laid the first stone of the chapel dome, built on -the model of St. Peter's at Rome. The church is now used only for -funerals and indispensable military services. The dependency of -Val-de-Grâce was built by Catherine de' Medici, the catacombs lie below -it and the surrounding houses. - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -LE JARDIN DES PLANTES - - -It was in the early years of the seventeenth century that the King's -physician bought a piece of waste ground--a _butte_ formed of the refuse -of centuries accumulated there--for the culture of the multitudinous -herbs and plants which made up the pharmacopia of the age. Thus was born -the "Jardin Royal de herbes médicinales" laid out in 1626. Chairs of -botany, pharmacy, surgery were instituted and endowed, and in 1650 the -garden was thrown open to the public. A century later Buffon was named -superintendent of the royal garden. He set himself to reorganize and -enlarge. The amphitheatre, the natural history galleries, the chemistry -laboratories, the fine lime-tree avenue are all due to him. -Distinguished naturalists succeeded one another as directors of the -garden, and after the death of Louis XVI a museum of natural history and -a menagerie were set up with what was left of the King's collection at -Versailles. Additions and improvements were made in succeeding years -till, after the outbreak of war in 1870, the Jardin was bombarded by the -Prussians, and during the siege its live-stock largely drawn upon to -feed the population of Paris. The garden and its buildings have been -added to frequently. The labyrinth is on the site of the hillock bought -by Guy de la Brosse, who first laid it out. A granite statue marks the -spot where he and two notable travellers were buried. Surrounding -streets record the names of great naturalists of different epochs. - -In Rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire, once Rue Jardin du Roi, No. 5, now the -Police Station, was built in 1760. At No. 30 a wheel once worked turned -by the water of the Bièvre, now a malodorous drain-stream hidden beneath -the pavement. No. 36 was Buffon's home. Here he died in 1788. At No. 37 -lived Daubenton. At No. 38 stood in olden days the great gate, the -Porte-Royale, of the Jardin du Roi, with to its left the hall, a narrow -space at that time, where the great surgeon Dionis described to a -marvelling assembly of students his wonderful discoveries (1672-73). -That small _cabinet_ was the nucleus of the great anthropological museum -of succeeding centuries. - -In Rue Cuvier, in its early days Rue Derrière-les-Murs de Ste-Victoire, -describing accurately its situation, we see at No. 20 a modern fountain -(1840) on the site of one put there in 1671 and traces of the abbey -St-Victor in the courtyard. The pavilion "de l'Administration" of the -Garden is the ancient hôtel Jean Debray (1650), inhabited subsequently -by several men of note. At No. 47 Cuvier died in 1832. In the -eighteenth-century _fiacres_, a recently introduced manner of getting -about, were to be hired at No. 45. The eleventh-century Rue Linné shows -many vestiges of the past. We see Gothic arches of the vanished abbey at -No. 4. - -In Rue des Fossés St-Bernard, stretching along the line of -Philippe-Auguste's wall, between the site of two great gates: Porte -St-Victor, a spot desecrated by the massacres of September, and Porte -St-Bernard, we see Halle-aux-Vins, where abbey buildings stood of yore. -The Halle-aux-Cuirs, in Rue Censier, is on the site of the famous -orphanage "La Miséricorde," called vulgarly "les Cent Filles" or "les -Cent Vierges." The apprentice from the Arts and Crafts Institution, who -should choose one of these orphan maidens for his wife, obtained as her -dowry the privilege of becoming at once a full member of the -Corporation. - -In Rue de la Clef we have at No. 56 the site of part of the notorious -prison Ste-Pélagie. No. 26 is still owned by the Savouré, whose -ancestors kept the school where Jerôme Bonaparte and many of his -compeers were educated. Rue du Fer-à-Moulin, dating from the twelfth -century, a stretch of blackened walls, has been known by many names. In -the little Rue Scipion leading out of it we see at No. 13 the _hôtel_ -built in the sixteenth century for the Tuscan, Scipion Sardini, who came -to France in the suite of Catherine de' Medici, a rich and rather -scandalous financier; terra-cotta medallions ornament its walls. It -serves now as the bakehouse of the Paris hospitals. In the square -opposite we see the curious piece of statuary: "des Boulangers," by -Charpentier. - -Rue Monge, running from boulevard St-Germain to Avenue des Gobelins, was -cut through old streets of the district in 1859. A fountain Louis XV -brought here from its original site, Rue Childebert, was set up in the -square, and many other old-time relics: statues from the ancient hôtel -de Ville, débris from the Palais de l'Industrie, burnt down in 1897; a -copy of the statue of Voltaire by Houdin, etc. - -Rue d'Arras, so named from a college once there, began as Rue des Murs, -referring to the walls of Philippe-Auguste. The concert hall we see was -not long ago Père Loyson's church. L'École Communale, No. 19 Rue des -Boulangers, is on the site of part of the convent des "Filles -Anglaises," which had existed there from 1644--razed in 1861. - -Rue Rollin began in the sixteenth century as Rue des Moulins-à-vent. On -the site of the house at No. 2 Pascal died in 1662. No. 4, with its fine -staircase, its _grille_ and ancient well in the courtyard, was the home -of Bernardine de St. Pierre, during the years he wrote his world-known -_Paul and Virginie_. Rollin lived and died (1741) at No. 8. Descartes -lived at No. 14. When the street was longer and known as Rue -Neuve-St-Etienne, Manon Philipon, Madame Roland of later days, was a -pupil in the _annexe_ of the English Augustine convent on a site crossed -now by Rue Monge and Rue de Navarre. - -In Rue de Navarre we come to Les Arènes, the disinterred remains of the -Roman Arena. They were discovered here just before the war of 1870, then -quickly covered up to be in part restored to daylight in 1883. We see -before us the grey stones, huge blocks and graduated step-like seats -where the population of the city--Lutetians then--passed their hours of -recreation watching the conflicts of wild beasts. It is not, perhaps, -the original arena built here by the Romans, for that was attacked -twice, first by the northern invaders, then by the Christians, many of -its stones used to build the city walls. It was, however, soon restored -... evidently. In the course of subsequent invasions, conquests, new -settlements, constructions and the lapse of years, the Roman theatre -sank beneath the surface to be unearthed in nineteenth-century days. -Modern garden paths and a grand but inharmonious entrance in Louis XIV -style now surround this supremely interesting vestige of a long-gone -age. Children play where savage beasts once fought. Women knit and sew, -old men rest, young men and maidens woo, where Roman soldiers and a -primitive Gallic population once eagerly gathered to watch fierce -combats.[E] - -Rue Lacépède: here at No. 1 stood till recently the Hôpital de la Pitié, -founded by Marie de' Medici in 1613, now replaced by a modern building -in the boulevard de l'Hôpital. Its primary destination was a shelter for -beggars--a refuge--in order to free Paris from the swarms who "gained -their living" by soliciting alms in the streets. The beggars preferred -their liberty. By an edict of some years later, however, beggars were -taken there and closely shut up, safely guarded. They were called in -consequence "les Enfermés." The hospital grew in extent and importance -and was called "Notre-Dame de la Pitié." The convent Ste-Pélagie was -organized in a part of its buildings, in 1660, to become at the -Revolution the notorious prison. No. 7 is a handsome eighteenth-century -_hôtel_. Rue Gracieuse has brought down to our time the graceful name of -a family who lived there in the thirteenth century and some ancient -houses. In Rue du Puits de l'Ermite lived the sculptors Coysevox, -Coustou, and the painter Bourdon. The hospice for aged poor in Rue de -l'Épée-de-Bois was formerly an _asile_ founded by Soeur Rosalie, known -for her self-sacrificing work among the cholera-stricken in 1832, and -during the Revolution of 1848. The very name Rue des Patriarches bids us -look for vestiges of past ages. The patriarchs, thus memorized, were -two fourteenth-century ecclesiastics, one bishop of Paris and -Alexandria, the other of Jerusalem, who dwelt in a fine old _hôtel_, the -big courtyard of which has become a market-place, while the street named -after them and a curious _impasse_ stretch across the site of the razed -mansion. The district was a centre of Calvinism during the religious -struggles. The bishop's old house, "hôtel Chanac," sheltered numerous -Protestants, and religious services were held there. - -Rue de l'Arbalète carries us back to the days when archers had their -garden and training-ground here. Later an apothecary's garden was laid -out where now we see the extensive modern buildings of the Institut -Agronomique. A pharmaceutical school was built in this old street and -medicinal herbs were cultivated from the end of the fifteenth and early -years of the sixteenth centuries. Remains of a Roman cemetery were found -some years ago beneath the paving-stones near No. 16. - -In Rue Daubenton we find the presbytery and ancient side-entrance of -St-Médard, and in the old wall distinct traces of two great gates which -led to the churchyard. Traces of past time are seen also in Rue de la -Pitié, where at No. 3 Robespierre's sister lived and, in 1834, died. - -Rue Cardinal-Lemoine begins across the site of the college founded by -the Cardinal in 1302, suppressed at the Revolution, used subsequently as -a barracks, then razed. The wall of Philippe-Auguste passed on the site -of No. 26. Beneath the house a curious leaden coffin was found in 1908. -At No. 49 we see the handsome but dilapidated façade of the house of the -painter Lebrun, where also Watteau lived for a time. Here the Dames -Anglaises had their well-known convent from 1644 to 1859, when they -moved to Neuilly. At the Revolution the convent was confiscated, yet -Mass was said daily in the chapel through the Terror (_see_ pp. 11, 28). - -At No. 65 we see the Collège des Écossais, founded in 1325 by David, -bishop of Moray, to which a second foundation due to the bishop of -Glasgow, 1639, was added, transferred here from Rue des Armendiers, by -Robert Barclay in 1662. Suppressed in 1792, it was used as a prison -under the Terror but restored to the Scots when Revolution days were -over. The seventeenth-century chapel still stands and the heart of James -II is in a casket there. The college staircase, left untouched, is -remarkably fine. Close by, at the end of Rue Thouin, in what was -formerly Place Fourcy, the brothers Perrault, one the famous architect, -the other yet more universally known--the writer of fairy tales--lived -and died. Rue de l'Estrapade recalls the days when, on the _place_ hard -by, rebellious soldiers were punished by being hoisted to the top of a -pole, their hands tied behind their back, then let fall to the ground. -Old-time vestiges are seen all along the street. Rue Clotilde crosses -what were once the grounds of the abbey Ste-Geneviève. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -THE LUXEMBOURG - - -ARRONDISSEMENT VI. (LUXEMBOURG) - -The palace that gives its name to the arrondissement was founded by -Marie de' Medici and built on the model of the Pitti palace at Florence -by Salomon de Brosse between the years 1615-20. The site chosen was in -the neighbourhood of the vast monastery and extensive grounds of the -Chartreux. The duc de Luxembourg had an _hôtel_ there. It was sold to -the Queen and razed; but vainly was the new edifice on the spot called -by its builder "Palais Médicis." The name of the razed mansion prevailed -over that of the Queen. - -A garden was begun in 1613 on a space in the Abbey grounds where, in a -previous age, a Roman camp had stretched. - -[Illustration: JARDIN ET PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG] - -Marie left the palace to her second son, Gaston d'Orléans. It was the -abode of various royal personages till the outbreak of the Revolution. -Then it became a prison. Camille Desmoulins and many of his compeers -were shut up there. The Chartreux fled and their monastery was levelled -with the ground. The Terror over, the palace became successively Palais -des Directeurs, Sénat Conservateur, Chambre des Pairs and, in 1852, -Sénat Impérial. After Sedan it became the Sénat de la République. The -gardens were extended across the property of the Chartreux. They are -beautiful gardens. The Renaissance fountain is the work of Jacques de -Brosse. The statues we see on every side among the lawns and the -flower-beds, in the shady alleys, most of them the work of noted -sculptors, show us famous men and women of every period of French -history from Ste-Bathilde and Ste-Geneviève to our own day. - -The Petit Luxembourg is also due to Marie de' Medici, built a few years -after the completion of the larger palace. From the day of its -inauguration by Richelieu it knew many inhabitants of note: Barras, -Buonaparte and Joséphine, etc., sojourned there. It was used at one time -as a senate house, then as a Préfecture. We see in an adjacent wall a -marble _mètre_--the standard measure put there under the Directoire. -Finally the mansion was chosen as the official residence of the -president of the Senate. - -Rue Vaugirard, on which the chief entrance of both these palaces open, -is the longest street in Paris and one of the oldest. It is, like many -another long Paris street, made up of several thoroughfares once -distinct. The first of these, Rue du Val-Girad, led from the village -named from its chief landowner, an abbé of St-Germain-des-Prés, Gérard -de Meul. In close proximity to the Palace is the Odéon, the Second -Théâtre-Français, once the "Français" itself, built in 1782, on the site -of the hôtel de Condé, burnt down in 1799, rebuilt by Chalgrin, reopened -in 1808 as théâtre de l'Impératrice, badly burnt a few years later, -restored as the théâtre Français, then again restored in 1875. The -_place_ surrounding the theatre and the streets opening out of it are -rich in historic and literary associations. No. 1, Café Voltaire, was a -meeting-place of eighteenth-century men of letters of every class and -type. At No. 2 lived Camille Desmoulins and his Lucile. There he was -arrested. In Rue Rotrou, No. 4, now a well-known bookseller's shop, was -once the famous Café Tabourey. André Chenier lived in Rue Corneille. Rue -Tournon was opened in 1540, across the site of a horse-market bearing -the realistic name Pré-Crotté, on land belonging to the Chapter of -St-Germain-des-Prés, and named after its abbé, Cardinal de Tournon. At -No. 2, hôtel Chatillon (seventeenth century), Balzac passed three years, -1827-30. No. 4 dates from the days of Louis XIV as hôtel Jean de -Palaiseau, later hôtel Montmorency. Lamartine lived here in 1848. At No. -5 lived and died the notorious _devineresse_ Mlle Lenormand, "sybille de -l'Impératrice Joséphine." Another prophetess, Mme Moreau, lived here in -the time of Napoléon III. No. 7, hôtel du Sénat et des Nations, -sheltered Gambetta for a time, also Alphonse Daudet. At No. 6, hôtel de -Brancas (1540), inhabited in its early years by the duchesse de -Montpensier, rebuilt under the Regency, we see a very fine staircase and -frescoed boudoir. Pacha lived for some years at No. 13. No. 8 dates from -1713, on the site of a more recent _hôtel_. At No. 10, hôtel Concini, -Louis XIII lived for a time to be near his mother, Marie de' Medici, at -the Luxembourg. St. François de Sales stayed here. It served as the -hôtel des Ambassadeurs Extraordinaires (1630-1748), was sequestered at -the Revolution; then became a barracks as it is to-day. At No. 19 the -Scot, Admiral Jones, famous for his help in the American War of -Independence, died in 1791; his bones were taken to America in 1905. No. -33, the well-known restaurant Foyot, was in old days hôtel de Tréville, -where royalties sometimes dined incognito. At No. 19 we come to an old -curiosity shop surmounted by a barber's pole, and on the doorpost we -read the words, with their delicate flavour of irony: - - "Ici Monsieur Tussieu barbier, - Rase le Sénat, - Accommode la Sorbonne, - Frise l'Académie." - -When the recent war was on the patriotic barber posted up in French, in -Greek, in Latin, other words, the following: - - "Bulgares de Malheur, - Turques, Austro-Hongrois, Boches, - Ne comptez sur Tussieu - Pour tondre vos caboches." - -He died a few months ago, leaving to his widow his shop full of valuable -antiquities. - -Rue Garancière owes its euphonious name to a notable sixteenth-century -firm of dyers--la Maison Garance was on the site of the present -publishing house Plon. In the seventeenth century the Garance hôtel was -rebuilt as a mansion for the Breton bishop, René de Rieux. After the -Revolution it was for thirty years the Mairie of the district. The words -"stationnement de nuit pour huit tonneaux" on the wall at No. 9 refer to -a vanished market fountain. The Dental School at No. 5 was originally -the home of Népomacène Lemercier. Passing through Rue Palatine -memorizing Charlotte de Bavière, widow of Henri de Bourbon, who lived at -one time at the Luxembourg, we turn down Rue Servandoni, so named in -recent times in honour of the architect of the façade of the church -St-Sulpice, who died in a house opposite No. 1 (1766). Among the -bas-reliefs at No. 14 is one of Servandoni unrolling a plan of -St-Sulpice. We see on every side some interesting vestiges of the past. -Rue Canivet and Rue Férou show many old houses. Rue du Luxembourg is -modern, built along what was once a shady alley of the garden. The Café -at No. 1, Rue Fleurus, was erewhile the meeting-place of great artists: -Corot, Murger and others of their time. Rue Auguste Comte is another -modern street along an old alley of the garden. - -Rue d'Assas, across the garden at one point, runs through the whole of -this arrondissement over what were once the grounds of the two old -convents: the Carmes and Cherche-Midi; it shows a few ancient houses. -No. 8 is eighteenth century. No. 19, l'Institut Catholique, is the -ancient Carmelite convent. George Sand lived in a house once on the site -of No. 28, and Foucault, a celebrated physician who made, besides, the -notable proof of the earth's rotation by the movement of a pendulum, -died here in 1868. Littré the great lexicographer died at No. 44. -Michelet at No. 76. - -Turning again into Rue Vaugirard we find at No. 36, the house built for -the household staff of the Princesse Palatine, its kitchen communicating -with the Petit Luxembourg by an underground passage; at No. 19 remains -of the couvent des Dames Benedictines du Calvaire, founded 1619, and on -the site of the Orangery, the Musée du Luxembourg, inaugurated in 1818, -which grew out of the exhibition in 1750 of a hundred pictures in -possession of the King. Massenet lived and died at No. 48. No. 50, hôtel -de Trémouille, called in Revolutionary times hôtel de la Fraternité, -where Mme de Lafayette died in 1692. Nos. 52 and 54 are ancient, 56 was -the hôtel Kervessan (1700). We reach at No. 70 the old convent of the -Carmes Déchaussés. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - -LES CARMES - - -The tragic story of "les Carmes" has been repeatedly told. The convent -was founded in 1613 by Princesse de Conti and la Maréchale d'Ancre for -the Carmes Déchaussés, who hailed from Rome. The first stone of their -chapel here, dedicated to St. Joseph, was laid by Marie de' Medici; its -dome was the first dome built in Paris; Italian masters painted frescoes -on its walls. The Order became very popular among Parisians who liked -the _eau de Mélisse_, which it was the nuns' business, in the secular -line, to make and sell, and they were respected for their goodness to -the poor. When the horrors of the Revolution were filling the city with -blood, the Carmes were left unmolested, some even hidden away in secret -corners of the convent with the connivance of Revolutionary chiefs. Then -priests who refused to take the oath of allegiance were shut up there -and to-day we see, in the old crypt, the bones of more than a hundred of -them, slain by a band led by a revolutionist known as "Tape-dur"--strike-hard. -A prison during the Terror, Mme Tallien, Joséphine de Beauharnais, and -more than seven hundred others were shut up there, led forth thence, -many of them, to execution. These tragic scenes overpast, the convent -was let to a manager of public fêtes: its big hall became a ballroom, -"le bal des Marronniers." That wonderful woman Camille de Soyecourt, -Soeur Camille, who had previously re-organized the convent, bought it -back in 1797. The garden-shed where the bodies of the murdered priests -had lain was made into a memorial-chapel, razed in 1867. Then the -priests' bones were carried to the crypt where we now see them. Every -year in the first week of September, anniversary of the Massacre, -the convent, the crypt and the ancient garden, little changed from -Revolution days, are thrown open to the public, where besides the -bones of the massacred priests many interesting tombs and relics are -reverently cared for. It was at the Institut Catholique in the old -Carmelite buildings that the principle of wireless telegraphy was -discovered, in 1890. - -The ancient burial-ground of St-Sulpice lies beneath the buildings Nos. -100-102 of the long Rue Vaugirard. No. 104, the Salle Montalembert, is -the ancient convent of the Pères Maristes. At No. 85 we see an old-time -boundary-stone and bas-reliefs. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - -ON ANCIENT ABBEY GROUND - - -Numerous ancient streets and some modern ones, on time-honoured ground, -lead out of Rue Vaugirard. Rue Bonaparte, extending to the banks of the -Seine, was formed in 1852 of three old streets. Most of its houses are -ancient or show vestiges of past ages and have historic associations. At -No. 45 Gambetta dwelt in 1866. No. 36 was the home of Auguste Comte; on -the site of No. 35 was the kitchen of the great abbey St-Germain-des-Prés, -which stretched across the course of many streets in this district -(_see_ p. 201). No. 20, l'hôtel du duc de Vendôme, son of Henri IV and -Gabrielle d'Estrées. No. 19, hôtel de Rohan-Rochefort, where the wife of -the unfortunate due d'Enghien, shot at Vincennes, used to receive her -exiled husband in secret when he came in disguise to Paris. No. 17 is -noted as the office till recent years of the _Revue des Deux Mondes_, -first issued there in 1829 as a magazine of travel! - -No. 14, École Nationale des Beaux-Arts, on the site of the convent des -Petits-Augustins, founded by Margaret de Valois in 1605, of which some -walls remain and to which in the nineteenth century were added the -hôtels de Conti and de Bouillon, the latter known as hôtel de Chimay. -The nucleus of the works of art here seen was a collection of sculptures -and other precious relics saved from buildings shattered or suppressed -in the days of the Revolution, reverently laid in what was called at -first a _dépôt des ruines des Monuments_. The word _ruines_ was soon -omitted and the _dépôt_ became the Musée des Monuments Français, under -the able direction of Lenoir. But ruins are still to be seen there, -splendid and historic ruins--the façade of the château d'Anet, built for -Diane de Poitiers, and remains of many another superb _hôtel_ of bygone -ages. A beautiful chapel, paintings by Delaroche, and Ingres, statuary, -mouldings of Grecian and Roman sculpture, are among the treasures of the -Beaux-Arts. Nos. 1 and 3, forming l'hôtel de Chevandon, was inhabited at -one time by vicomte de Beauharnais, the Empress Joséphine's first -husband. - -[Illustration: L'ABBAYE ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS] - -Rue des Beaux-Arts, opened a century ago, has ever been the habitation -of distinguished artists and men of letters. Rue Visconti, cut across -the Petit Pré-aux-Clercs, the Students' Fields, in the sixteenth -century, bore till the middle of the nineteenth century the more -characteristic name Rue des Marais-St-Germain. The Visconti it -memoralizes was the architect of Napoléon's tomb and of restoration work -at the Louvre. In its early years it was a resort of Huguenots, and -known therefore as the "Petite Genève." It is very narrow and nearly -every house is ancient; Racine died either at No. 13 or at 21. No. 17 -was the printing-house founded by de Balzac, to whom it brought ruin. -No. 21, hôtel de Ranes. - -Rue Jacob, lengthened in the nineteenth century by the Rue Colombier, -ancient Chemin-aux-Clercs, owes its name to a chapel built by Margaret -de Valois, la Reine Margot--dedicated to the Hebrew patriarch in -fulfilment of a vow when the Queen was kept in durance in Auvergne. The -street has always been the habitation of notable men of letters, -artists, etc. Sterne lived at No. 46. No. 47, Hôpital de la Charité, -another of Marie de' Medici's foundations, was built for the Frères de -St-Jean-de-Dieu. The firm of chemists at No. 48--Rouelle--dates from -1750, formerly on the opposite side of the street. At No. 19 we see in -the courtyard vestiges of the old abbey infirmary. The abbey gardens -stretched across the site of several houses here. No. 26, hôtel Lefèvre -d'Ormesson (1710). At No. 22 there is an eighteenth-century structure in -the court called "temple de l'Amitié." At No. 20 dwelt the great -eighteenth-century actress, Adrienne Lecouvreur. In Rue Furstemburg we -find vestiges of the abbey stables and coach-house. - -Rue de l'Abbaye, opened in the last year of the eighteenth century, -stretches across a line once in the heart of the famous abbey grounds. -The first church on the site of the fine old edifice we see there now, -was built under the direction of Germain, bishop of Paris, in the time -of Childebert, about the middle of the sixth century, dedicated to -St-Vincent and known as St-Vincent et Ste-Croix, on account of its -crucifix form. Bishop Germain added a monastery. In the ninth century -came the devastating Normans. The church and convent were destroyed to -be rebuilt on so grand and extensive a scale two centuries later, -strongly fortified, surrounded by a moat, watch-towers, etc.--a -masterpiece of thirteenth-century architecture. In the eighteenth -century the abbey prison was taken over by the State, the Garde -Française lodged there. In September, 1792 Mme Roland, Charlotte Corday -and many another notable prisoner of those terrible days were shut up -within its walls. The fine library and beautiful refectory were burnt -and there, that fatal September, saw some three hundred victims of -Revolutionary fury put to death, the greater number slain on the spot -where Rue Buonaparte touches the _place_ in front of the church. The -prison stood till 1857. The church is full within as without of -intensely interesting architectural and historic features: its tower is -the most ancient church tower of the city. In the little garden square -we see the ruins of the lady-chapel built by Pierre de Montereau, -architect of the Ste-Chapelle. The Gothic roof, the round-arched nave, -the splendid chapel of the Sacré-Coeur, once the church choir, with -its pillars coloured deep red, the wonderful capitals of the chancel, -the old glass in the chapel Ste-Geneviève, the tombs and the statues, -and Flandrin's glorious frescoes, all appeal to the lover of the -beautiful and the historic. Of the houses in the vicinity of the church -many are ancient, others are on the site of abbey buildings swept away. -No. 3 Rue de l'Abbaye, the abbey palace, dates from 1586, built with a -subterranean passage by Cardinal Charles de Bourbon. The last abbot who -dwelt there was Casimir, King of Poland, whose tomb is in the church. In -modern times it has served as a studio and is now a dispensary. At No. -13 we see the last traces of the monastery with its thirteenth-century -cloister. At No. 15 Rue St-Benoît are the remains of an old tower; at -No. 11 vestiges of an ancient wall; at No. 2, an old house once the -abode of Marc Orry, a famous printer of the days of Henri IV. Through -pipes down this old street water once flowed from the Seine to the -abbey, and it went by the name Rue de l'Égout. The painter of the last -portrait of Marie-Antoinette lived for some time at No. 17. - -Rue du Four, i.e. Oven Street, the site in olden days of the abbey -bakehouse, and one of the most important streets of the abbey precincts, -bearing in its early days the royal name Chaussée du Roi, has been -almost entirely rebuilt in modern times. Here and there we find traces -of another age. Robespierre lived here. - -Rue du Vieux-Colombier, recalling by its name the abbey dove-cot, has -known among its inhabitants Boileau, Lesage, the husband of Mme -Récamier. Few ancient houses are left there now. We see bas-reliefs at -No. 1. - -Rue de Mézières is so called from the hôtel Mézières given in 1610 to -the Jesuits as their _noviciat_. No. 9 is ancient. Rue Madame, which it -crosses, existed under different names from the sixteenth century, part -of it as Rue du Gindre, a reference to the abbey bakehouse once near, -for a _gindre_ is the baker's chief man. The name of Madame was given in -1790 to the part newly opened across the Luxembourg gardens by the new -occupant of the palace, the comte de Province, brother of Louis XVI, in -honour of his wife. That did not hinder the count from building in the -same street a fine mansion for his mistress, comtesse de Balbi, razed -some years ago. Flandrin lived at No. 54. Renan at No. 55. Rue Cassette -shows us a series of past-time houses, many of them associated with the -memory of notable persons of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. -Alfred de Musset lived there. No. 12 was in the hands of the Carmelites -till the Revolution. No. 21 belonged to the Jesuits till their expulsion -in 1672. In the garden of No. 24 the vicar of St-Sulpice lay hidden -after escaping from the Carmes at the time of the Massacre. Rue -Honoré-Chevalier, in the days of Henri IV Rue du Chevalier Honoré, shows -in its name another link with the abbey bakehouse, for it was that of -the master-baker who cut the street across his own property. - -The church St-Sulpice, with its very characteristic façade, the work of -Servandoni, was begun in the middle of the seventeenth century on the -site of a thirteenth-century church dedicated to St. Pierre, but was not -finished till nearly a century later. Servandoni's towers were -disapproved of; one was demolished and rebuilt by Chalgrin. The other -remains as Servandoni designed it. Entering the church we see its walls -covered with frescoes and paintings; they are all by celebrated artists. -Those in the lady-chapel by Van Loo, the rest by Delacroix and other -masters of modern times. The high altar is unusually large. The shells -for holy water were a gift from the Republic of Venice to François I. -The pulpit with its carved figures was given by Richelieu. In the -Chapelle-des-Étudiants is an organ that belonged to Marie-Antoinette for -the use of her young son, and has been played by Glück and Mozart. A -sacrilegious fête was held in the church in Revolution days and a great -banquet given in honour of Napoléon. The grand organ is very fine, its -woodwork designed by Chalgrin. The services are noted for the beauty of -their music. The _place_ dates from 1800, built on the site of the -ancient seminary "des Sulpiciens," razed by Napoléon. The present -Séminaire, no longer a seminary--forfeited to the State in 1906--was -built in 1820-25. The immense fountain was put up there nearly half a -century later, an old smaller one taken away. - -Almost parallel with Rue Bonaparte the old Rue de Seine stretches from -the banks of the river to Rue St-Sulpice. It dates in its most ancient -part from 1250 as the Pré-aux-Clercs road. No. 1 is a dependency of the -Institute. No. 6 is on the site of a _palais_ built by la Reine Margot -on leaving l'hôtel de Sens, some traces of which are seen among the -buildings on the spot, and part of the Queen's gardens. No. 10 was -formerly the Art School of Rosa Bonheur. At No. 12 are vestiges of -l'hôtel de la Roche-Guyon and Turenne (1620). Nos. 41, 42, 57, 56, 101 -show interesting seventeenth-century features. Rue Mazarine is another -parallel street--a street of ancient houses. No. 12 is notable as the -site of the Jeu de Paume, a tennis-court, where in 1643 Molière set up -his Illustre théâtre. No. 30, hôtel des Pompes, where died in 1723 the -founder of the Paris Fire Brigade; a remarkable man he ... an actor in -Molière's troup, the father of thirty-two children! On the site of No. -42 stood once another tennis-court, which became the théâtre Guénégaud, -where the first attempts at Opera were made. - -Rue de Nesle, till the middle of last century Rue d'Anjou-Dauphine, -stretches across the site of part of the famous hôtel de Nesle; a -subterranean passage formerly ran beneath it. The interesting house No. -8 is one of the many said to be a palace of la Reine Blanche, the mother -of St. Louis. There were, however, as a matter of fact, many "Reines -Blanches" in France in olden times, for royal French widows wore white, -not black for mourning. - -Rue de Nevers (thirteenth century) was in past days closed at both ends -and called therefore Rue des Deux-Portes. In Rue Guénégaud we find at -No. 29 a tower of Philippe-Auguste's wall. All its houses are ancient. -At No. 1 we see the remains of a famous théâtre des Marionnettes. - -Rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie, in a line with Rue Mazarine, erewhile Rue des -Fossés-St-Germain, is full of historic memories. The Café Procope at No. -13, now a restaurant, was the first café opened in Paris (1689). Noted -men of every succeeding century drank, talked, made merry or aired their -grievances within its walls: modern paintings there record the features -of some of them. No. 14 was the theatre from which the street takes its -name, succeeded by the Odéon (_see_ p. 184). Rue Grégoire-de-Tours shows -us several curious old houses. At No. 32 we see finely chiselled statues -on the façade. Rue de Buci, originally Rue de Bussy from the -_buis_--box-bush--once growing there, the ecclesiastical "Via Sancti -Germani de Pratis," later Rue du Pilori, passed in ancient days through -Philippe-Auguste's wall by a great gate with two towers opened for the -purpose. For it was an all-important thoroughfare. The _carrefour_ -whence it started was the busiest spot of the whole district. Persons of -ill-repute or evil conduct were chained there; those condemned to death -were hung there. Sedan chairs for the peaceable were hired there. -Thither Revolutionist volunteers flocked to be enrolled in 1792, and -there the first of the September massacres was perpetrated. Most of the -ancient buildings along its course have been replaced by modern -structures. The street has been in part widened; the site of some old -structures lately razed has not yet been built on. - -Rue Dauphine, named in honour of the son of Henri IV, later Louis XIII, -dates from 1607. Most of the houses date from that century or the -century following. Rue Mazet, opening out of it at No. 49, was famed in -past days for the old inn and coaching station--"le Cheval Blanc." It -existed from 1612 to 1906. Near it was the restaurant Magny, where -literary lions of the early years of the nineteenth century--G. Sand, -Flaubert, the Goncourts, etc.--met and dined. Some old houses still -stand there. - -[Illustration: COUR DE ROHAN] - -Rue St-André-des-Arts, where in ancient days dwelt the makers and -vendors of "arcs," i.e. bows, and along which the pious passed to pray -at St-André on abbey territory for those who had suffered death by -burning, (_les Arsis_) was in long-gone times a vine-bordered path -reaching to the city wall. It was known at one time as Rue St-Germain, -and was a great shoemaking street. It is rich in vestiges of the past. -Almost every house has interesting features. The modern Lycée Fénelon at -No. 45, the first girls' _lycée_ in Paris, stands on the site of the -ancient _hôtel_ of the ducs d'Orléans. No. 52, hôtel du -Tillet-de-la-Bussière. Nos. 47-49, on the site of the ancient mansion of -the Kings of Navarre and of the Vieuville, of which some traces are -still seen. At No. 11, a house on the site of the _place_ where stood -the old church, Gounod was born in 1818. Opening out of it is the -Passage du Commerce-St-André, cut in 1776, across the site of -Philippe-Auguste's great wall of which, at No. 4, we find the base of a -tower, and in the Cour de Rohan, more correctly perhaps Rouen, a very -perfect fragment of the city rampart. The archbishops of Rouen had an -_hôtel_ here, and the vestiges we see before us are those of a mansion -built on its site by King Henri II for Diane de Poitiers. Rue des -Grands-Augustins, in part on the site of an ancient Augustine convent, -was, in the thirteenth century, Rue l'Abbé de St-Denis. Many of its -houses show interesting traces of the past. The reputed restaurant -Lapérouse at No. 1 is a Louis XV _hôtel_. At No. 5 and No. 7 remains of -the ancient hôtel d'Hercule, noted for its mythological paintings and -tapestries, once the Paris abode of the princess of Savoie Carignan. At -No. 3 Rue Pont de Lodi, opening at No. 6, we see traces of the convent -refectory. Littré was born at No. 21 (1808). In 1841 Heine lived at No. -25. Sardou in his youth at No. 26. Augustin Thierry lived for ten years -in a house near the quay. - -Almost every house in Rue Christine, named after the second daughter of -Henri IV, dates from the seventeenth century. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - -IN THE VICINITY OF PLACE ST-MICHEL - - -An ancient _place_ and part of the old Rue de l'Hirondelle, and an -ancient chapel stretched in bygone days where now we see the broad new -Place St-Michel. The colossal fountain we see there was put up in 1860, -replacing a seventeenth-century fountain on the ancient _place_, which -lay a little more to the south. Of the boulevard--the famous "Boule -Miche"--we will speak later (_see_ p. 306). - -Turning into Rue de l'Hirondelle, in the twelfth century Rue -l'Arondale-en-Laac, then Rue Herondalle, we see remains of the ancient -Collège d'Antin, founded in 1371, and an eighteenth-century house on the -site of the mansion of the bishop of Chartres previously there. Rue -Gît-le-Coeur, probably indicated in fourteenth-century days the -dwelling-place of the King's cook ... _Gille_ his name; _coeur_, a -misspelling for _queux_, cook. At No. 5 we see remains of hôtel Séguier. - -Rue Séguier was a thoroughfare, a country road in Childebert's time; in -the fourteenth century it became a street with the name -Pavée-St-André-des-Arts. Every house has some interesting feature. The -famous Hostellerie St-François till the eighteenth century on the site -of No. 3, was the starting-point of the coaches for Normandy and -Brittany. At No. 6 we see traces of the hôtel de Nemours. The Frères -Cordonniers de St-Crépin, founded in 1645 (Shoemakers' Confraternity), -had its quarters where we see the Nos. 9, 11, 13. J. de Ste-Beuve, the -Jansenist, was born and in 1677 died at No. 17. At No. 18 we see all -that is left of a fourteenth-century hôtel de Nevers on the site of an -older _hôtel_. The burial-ground of the church St-André stretched along -part of Rue Suger: the presbytery was on the site of No. 13. Every house -in this narrow old street tells of past days. At No. 3 we find traces of -the chapel of the Collège de Boissy, founded in 1360 by a Canon of -Chartres for seven poor students. Another old-time college stood in Rue -de l'Éperon and till 1907, an ancient house, a dependency of the church -St-André-des-Arts. Rue Serpente, a winding road in its earliest days, a -street about the year 1200, was the site of the celebrated hôtel -Serpente, and of the firm of printers where Tallien was an employé. The -very modern Rue Danton, with its emphatically up-to-date structure in -re-enforced concrete, has swept away a host of ancient houses. The hôtel -des Sociétés Savantes is on the site of the hôtel de Thou, l'hôtel des -États-de-Blois in the time of Louis XV. - -Rue Mignon, twelfth century, recalls yet another college founded in 1343 -by a dignitary of Chartres of this name; ancient houses at Nos. 1 and 5. - -The most interesting of these old streets is Rue Hautefeuille with its -two turrets, one at No. 5, the ancient _hôtel_ of the Abbots of Fécamp, -fourteenth century, the other octagonal, at No. 21, on the corner of -what was once part of the Collège Damville of the same date: there in -Roman times stood the castle Altum Folium--Hautefeuille--of which -remains were found in the fourteenth century. This old street was no -doubt a road leading to the citadel. - -[Illustration: RUE HAUTEFEUILLE] - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - -L'ODÉON - - -An interesting corner of Old Paris lies on the north-east side of the -Odéon. Rue Racine, opening on the _place_ before the theatre, runs -through the ancient territory of the Cordeliers. Vestiges of a Roman -cemetery were found in recent years beneath the soil at No. 28, and at -No. 11 were unearthed traces of the city wall of Philippe-Auguste. -George Sand lived for a time at No. 3. Rue de l'École de Médecine was -once in part Rue des Cordeliers, in part Rue des Boucheries-St-Germain, -a name telling its own tale. No less than twenty-two butchers' shops -flourished here. At the outbreak of the Revolution a butcher was -president of the famous club des Cordeliers established in the ancient -convent chapel (1791-94). The refectory, the church-like structure we -see at No. 15, now an anatomy museum, built by Anne of Bretagne in the -fifteenth century, is all that remains of the convent buildings dating -in part from the early years of the twelfth century, which covered a -great part of this district from the days of Louis IX. Many of these -buildings were put to secular uses before the outbreak of the -Revolution. The cloister stood till 1877, made into a prison, then was -razed to make room for the École de Médecine built in part with the -ancient cloister stones. The chapel stood on what is now Place de -l'École-de-Médecine. The amphitheatre of the School of Surgery at No. -5, an association founded by St. Louis, dates from the end of the -seventeenth century on the site of an older structure. Above the cellars -at No. 4 stood in olden days the College of Damville. The Faculté de -Médecine at No. 12 is on the site of the Collège-Royal de Bourgogne, -founded in 1331. The first stone of the present building was laid by -Louis XVI. The edifice was enlarged in later days, restored in 1900. The -bas-relief on its frontal, sculptured as a figure of Louis XV, was by -order of the Commune transformed in 1793 into the woman draped we see -there now. Skulls of famous persons, some noted criminals, may be seen -at the Museum. Marat lived and died in Rue des Cordeliers. There -Charlotte Corday was seized by the enraged mob. Traces of the ancient -convent may be seen in the short Rue Antoine-Dubois. Rue Dupuytren lies -across what was the convent graveyard. Nos. 7-9 were dependencies of the -old convent. No. 7 was later a free school of drawing directed by Rosa -Bonheur. Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, so named in 1806, because of the -vicinity of the hôtel du Prince de Condé, was in olden days Chemin des -Fossés. We see there many characteristic houses. Auguste Comte died at -No. 10 in 1857. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI - -ROUND ABOUT THE CARREFOUR DE LA CROIX-ROUGE - - -Passing to the western half of the arrondissement, we turn into the -modern Rue de Rennes, running south from Place St-Germain-des-Prés along -the lines of razed convent buildings or their vanished gardens. The -short Rue Gozlin opening out of it dates from the thirteenth century, -its present name recording that of a bishop of Paris who defended the -city against invading Normans in the ninth century. Two only of the -houses we see there now are ancient, Nos. 1 and 5. At No. 50 we see the -seventeenth-century entrance of the old Cour du Dragon, with its balcony -and huge piece of sculpture dating from 1735; the quaint houses of the -alley, with its gutter in the middle, were in past days the habitation -of ironmongers. It leads down into the old Rue du Dragon, which began as -Rue du Sépulcre, being then the property of the monks of St-Sépulcre. A -fine _hôtel_ stood once at either end. At No. 76 we see the remains of a -mansion, taken later for a convent, where Bossuet sojourned. Nos. -147-127 are on the site of a Roman cemetery. - -Rue Cherche-Midi, once Chasse-Midi, takes its name from an ancient -sign-board illustrating the old French proverb: "Chercher midi à -quatorze heures," i.e. to look for something wide of the mark. Many -old-time houses still stand along its course. It starts from the -Carrefour de la Croix-Rouge, where, before a cross in the centre of the -Carrefour, criminals and political offenders were put to death. The name -is probably due to a sign-board rather than to the alleged colour of -this cross. In this quiet spot, as historians have remarked, a flaring -red cross would hardly have been in keeping with the temper of its -patrician inhabitants. The Revolutionists called it Carrefour du -Bonnet-Rouge. At No. 12 we see a fine _grille_. One of the most -interesting historically inhabited _hôtels_ of the city stood till 1907 -on the site of No. 37, in olden times the dependency of a convent, -latterly hôtel des Conseils-de-Guerre, razed to make way for the -brand-new boulevard Raspail. The military prison opposite is on the site -of a convent organized in the house of an exiled Calvinist, razed in -1851. Nos. 85, 87, 89, eighteenth century, belonged to a branch of the -Montmorency--knew successive inhabitants of historic fame and -illustrious name. A fine fountain is seen in the Cour des -Vieilles-Tuileries at No. 86. Several old shorter streets lead out of -this long one. In Rue St-Romain, named after an old-time Prior of -St-Germain-des-Prés, we see the fine old hôtel de M. de Choiseul, now -the headquarters of the National Savings Bank. Rue St-Placide, -seventeenth century, recording the name of a celebrated Benedictine -monk, shows some ancient vestiges. Huysmans died at No. 31 in 1907. In -Rue Dupin, once Petite Rue du Bac, we see ancient houses at Nos. 19-12, -in the latter a carved wood Louis XIII staircase. Rue du Regard, another -"Chemin Herbu" of past days, records by its present name the existence -of an old fountain once here, now placed near the fountain Médici of the -Luxembourg gardens. The publishing house Didot at No. 3 is on the site -of a handsome ancient mansion once the home of the children of Mme de -Montespan, sacrificed to the boulevard Raspail in 1907. Nos. 5-7 date -from the first years of the eighteenth century. The doors of the Mont de -Pitié are all that is left of hôtel de la Guiche once on the site. - -Rue de Sèvres, forming in the greater part of its course the boundary -between arrondissements VI and VII, running on into arrondissement XV, -was known familiarly in old days as Rue de la Maladrerie, on account of -its numerous hospitals. They are numerous still. At No. 11 and No. 13 we -find remains of the couvent des Prémontrés Réformés founded by Anne -d'Autriche, 1661. Rue Récamier was recently opened on the site of the -famous Abbaye-aux-Bois, where for thirty years Mme de Récamier lived the -"simple life," courted none the less by a crowd of ardent admirers--the -_tout Paris_ of that day. The Abbaye, as a convent, counted notable -women among its abbesses; at the Revolution it was suppressed and let -out in flats till its regrettable demolition in 1908. The Square Potain -close by, now known as Square du Bon Marché, is on the site of a -leper-house which dated from the reign of Philippe-Auguste. A convent -and adjoining buildings of ancient date were destroyed to allow -boulevard Raspail to pursue its course. An old house still stands at No. -26; vestiges at No. 31. At No. 42 we see the Hospice des Incurables, -founded in 1634 by Cardinal de la Rochefoucauld and known since 1878 as -l'Hospice Laennec. Here in 1819 died the woman Simon, the jailer of the -little dauphin "Louis XVII," after a sojourn of twenty-five years. The -minister Turgot and other persons of note lie buried in the chapel. The -Egyptian fountain dates from 1806. At No. 84 we see very recently -erected houses let out in flats on the site of the couvent des Oiseaux, -dating from the early years of the eighteenth century--the prison du -Bonnet Rouge during the Revolution, a convent school and _pension_ in -1818 till its suppression in 1906. The "Oiseaux"--birds--were perhaps -those of an aviary, or maybe those painted by Pigalle on the walls of -one of the rooms. The Lazarist convent at No. 95 was previously a -private mansion dating from the time of Louis XV. The chapel dates from -1827 and sheltered for some years the remains of St-Vincent-de-Paul. In -the eighteenth century, on the site of No. 125, wild beast fights took -place. The last numbers of the street are in arrondissement XV. There we -see the ancient Benedictine convent, suppressed in 1779--become -l'Hôpital Necker. The hospital at No. 149 began life in 1676 as a -community of "_gentilshommes_"; seventy years later it was the "Maison -Royale de l'Enfant-Jésus" under the patronage of Marie Leczinska, -enlarged by the gift of an adjoining mansion. Closed at the Revolution, -it served for a time as a coal-store, then became a National orphanage, -and in 1802 the "Enfants Malades"; its ancient chapel was replaced by -the chapel we see under Napoléon III. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII - -HÔTEL DES INVALIDES - - -ARRONDISSEMENT VII. (PALAIS-BOURBON) - -It was Henri IV, _le bon Roi_, who first planned the erection of a -special _hôtel_ to shelter aged and wounded soldiers. Meanwhile they -were lodged in barracks in different parts of the city. The fine _hôtel_ -we know was built by Louis XIV, opened in 1674, restored in after years -by Napoléon I, and again by Napoléon III. The greatest military names of -France figure in the list of its governors. - -On July 14th, 1789, the Paris mob rushed to the Invalides for arms -wherewith to storm the Bastille. On the 30th of March, 1814, nearly -fifteen hundred flags and trophies were destroyed in a great bonfire -made in the court to prevent them from falling into the hands of the -enemy Allies. But the chapel is still hung with flags and trophies taken -in wars long overpast and three museums--le Musée Historique, le Musée -d'Artillerie, le Musée des Plans-en-relief--have been important features -at les Invalides since 1905. The ancient refectory has become la -Salle-des-Armures, decorated with frescoes illustrative of the great -battles of bygone days from the time of Louis XIV onward. The big -cannons--_la batterie triomphale_--we see behind the moats are those -captured in the Napoléonic wars. Now in these poignant days of -unparalleled warfare, immense cannons of the most up-to-date -construction, monstrous airships, broken zeppelins, are gathered in the -great courtyards. In the chapel St-Louis we see the tombs of -distinguished soldiers and memorials in honour of the heroes of old-time -war-days. The dome-church, separated from it by the immense -stained-glass window, was built as a special chapel for the King and -Court, its dome decorated with paintings by the greatest artists of the -time. The sumptuous tomb of Napoléon I, the work of Visconti, was placed -there in the second half of the nineteenth century. - -The gravestone from St-Helena and other souvenirs were put in the chapel -St-Nicolas in 1910. Of late years no new pensioners were received, -veterans of war-days past were for long the sole inhabitants of the -soldiers' quarters--the only "_invalides_." Now the institution is once -more to be peopled with a crowd of disabled heroes, victims of the -terrible war. - -Avenue de Tourville, planned when the hôtel des Invalides was built, was -not opened till the century following. Of the four avenues opening out -of it, Avenue de Ségur, Avenue de Villars, Avenue de Breteuil, opened in -1780, record the names of distinguished generals of Napoléon's time, but -show us no historic structures. In Avenue de Lowenthal we see the façade -of l'École Militaire, a vast building reaching to Avenue de la -Motte-Picquet. It dates from 1752, the work of Gabriel, and was -originally destined for the military education of five hundred "young -gentlemen." Under the Convention it was turned into a flour store. -Restored as a school, the "Enfants de Mars"--military students of all -ranks--were admitted there. Young Buonaparte, come from Corsica to study -in Paris, spent a year here and was confirmed in its chapel, now used -for storing clothes. When that young student had made himself Emperor, -the Imperial Guard took up their quarters here--to be followed after -1824 by the Royal Guard. Under Napoléon III the building was -considerably changed. - -At No. 13 boulevard des Invalides we catch a glimpse of the former -couvent du Sacré-Coeur, the old hôtel Biron: its chief entrance is Rue -de Varennes (_see_ p. 194). No. 41 was l'hôtel de Condé. No. 50 l'hôtel -de Richepanse. No. 52 l'hôtel de Masserano. No. 56 is the Institution -Nationale des Jeunes Aveugles, a modern structure, its foundation dating -from 1791, one of the last foundations of Louis XVI. The statue we see -is that of Valentin Haüy, its original organizer. - -Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg is lined by fine _hôtels_, all modern, -only the names of their owners recalling days past. Avenue de la -Motte-Picquet is equally devoid of historic interest, save as regards -l'École-Militaire (_see_ p. 191). But turning aside from these fine -latter-day avenues, we find in the vicinity of the Invalides several of -the oldest historic streets of the Rive Gauche. - -Rue de Babylone existed under other names from the early years of the -fifteenth century. Its present designation is in memory of Bernard de -Ste-Thérèse, bishop of Babylone, who owned property there whereon, at -No. 22, was built in 1663 the Séminaire des Missions Étrangères. At No. -20 we see the statue of Notre-Dame de la Paix with the inscription: -"l'Original de cette image est un chef d'oeuvre si parfait que le -Tout-Puissant qui l'a fait s'est renfermé dans son ouvrage." At No. 21 -live "sisters" of St-Vincent-de-Paul, so active always in Christian work -and service. No. 32 is the ancient Petit hôtel Matignon. No. 33 is the -property of the sisters of No. 21. At No. 49 we see the ancient barracks -of les Gardes Françaises, so gallantly defended by the Suisses in July, -1830. - -In the short Rue Monsieur (the Monsieur of the day was the brother of -Louis XVI), we find at No. 12 the _hôtel_ built for Mademoiselle de -Bourbon-Condé, aunt of the duc d'Enghien, abbesse de Remiremont, who -lies buried beneath the pavement of the Benedictine convent at No. 20. -No. 5 shows us remains of the _hôtel_ of duc de Saint-Simon, the famous -diarist-historian. Passing up Rue Barbet de Jouy, cut in 1838 across the -site of an ancient mansion, we come to Rue de Varennes, a long line of -splendid dwellings dating from a past age. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII - -OLD-TIME MANSIONS OF THE RIVE GAUCHE - - -ARRONDISSEMENT VII. PALAIS-BOURBON - -The word Varennes is a corruption of Garennes: in English the Rue de -Varennes would be Warren Street, a name leading us back in thought to -the remote age when the district was wild, uncultivated land full of -rabbit-warrens. Another street joined to Rue de Varennes in 1850, and -losing thus its own name, made it the long street we enter. No. 77 is -the handsome mansion and park built early in the eighteenth century by -Gabriel for a parvenu wig-maker. Later it was l'hôtel de Maine, then -hôtel Biron, to become in 1807 the well-known convent of the -Sacré-Coeur. From its convent-days dates the chapel--now the Musée -Rodin. Other dependencies of the same date, built to house the nuns, -were razed after their evacuation in 1904, when educational -congregations were suppressed. The State, in possession of the domain, -let it out for a time in _logements_, used it for a brief period as a -National School, then let the whole property to the great sculptor, -Rodin, who always had his eye on fine old buildings threatened with -degradation or destruction. "I could weep," he once said to me, "when I -see fine historic walls ruthlessly razed to the ground." The disaffected -chapel became his studio and he set about maturing the plan, faithfully -carried out after his death, of organizing there a national museum. He -offered the whole of his own works and all the precious works of art he -had collected to the State for this purpose. A clause in the treaty -stipulates that in the possible but unlikely event of the restitution of -the chapel building, after a lapse of years, to religious authorities, -it be replaced as a museum by a new structure in the grounds. No. 73 is -hôtel de Broglie, 1775. No. 69 hôtel de Clermont, 1714. No. 80 is the -Ministère du Commerce. No. 78 the Ministère de l'Agriculture, built in -1712 as the habitation of an _actrice_. No. 65 began as l'hôtel de la -Marquise de la Suze, 1787, to become l'hôtel Rochefoucauld-Doudeauville. -No. 72 l'hôtel de Dufour, 1700. No. 64 was an eighteenth-century inn. -No. 57, l'hôtel de Matignon, made over by the duchesse de Galliera after -her husband's death to the Emperor of Austria, became the Austrian -Embassy--till 1914. Numerous have been the persons of historic name and -note who stayed or lived at this grand old mansion. It was owned at one -time by Talleyrand, whose home was next door at No. 55; by the comte de -Paris, who on the marriage of his daughter Amélie and Don Carlo of -Portugal, in 1886, gave there a fête so magnificent that it led to the -banishment of the Orléans and other princely families of France on the -ground of royalist propaganda. Nos. 62-60 are ancient. No. 58 l'hôtel -d'Auroy, 1750; l'hôtel Rochefoucauld in 1775. No. 56 l'hôtel de -Gouffier, 1760. No. 55 l'hôtel d'Angennes. Nos. 52-52 _bis_ l'hôtel de -Guébriant. No. 47 l'hôtel de Jaucourt, 1788, later de -Rochefoucauld-Dundeauville. No. 48 the hôtel de Charles Skelton. -Monseigneur de Ségur was born here in 1820. No. 45 is l'hôtel de -Cossé-Brissac, 1765. No. 46 the petit hôtel de Narbonne-Pelet. Nos. -43-41 l'hôtel d'Avrincourt. At No. 23 are vestiges of l'hôtel -St-Gelais, 1713. No. 21 is l'hôtel de Narbonne-Pelet. No. 22 l'hôtel de -Biron, 1775. No. 19 l'hôtel de Chanterac. In its passage here as -elsewhere Boulevard Raspail has swept away venerable buildings. - -The Esplanade on the northern side of the hôtel des Invalides, once -Plaine-des-Prés-St-Germain, stretches between three long and old-world -streets--Rue de Grenelle, Rue St-Dominique, Rue de l'Université--all -crossing the 7th arrondissement in almost its entire extent. - -Rue de Grenelle, in the fifteenth century Chemin de Garnelle, then -Chemin des Vaches, a country road, has near its higher end where we -start two ancient streets leading out of it, Rue de la Comète (1775), -named to record the passage of the famous comet of 1763, where at No. 19 -we see a curious old courtyard, and Rue de Fabert with an ancient -one-storied house at its corner. No. 127 hôtel de Charnac, abbé de -Pompadour, was the palace Mgr. Richard was forced to give up in -1906--now Ministère du Travail. Nos. 140-138, a fine mansion built in -1724, inhabited till the eighteenth century by noblemen of mark, is now -hôtel de l'État-Major de l'Armée and Service Géographique de l'Armée. At -No. 115, formerly l'hôtel du Marquis de Saumery, the _actrice_ Adrienne -Lecouvreur died and was secretly buried. The short Rue de Martignac, -opening at No. 130, showing no noteworthy feature, was built in 1828 on -the ancient grounds of the Carmelites and the Dames de Bellechasse. No. -105 belonged to Berryer, the famous lawyer, 1766, then to Lamoignon de -Basville. No. 122, l'hôtel d'Artagnan, to Maréchal de Montesquieu. At -No. 101 l'hôtel d'Argenson, 1700, where Casimir Perier died of cholera -in 1832; now Ministère de Commerce de l'Industrie. No. 118 l'hôtel de -Villars, etc., has very beautiful woodwork. No. 116, the Mairie since -1865, an ancient _hôtel_ transformed and enlarged in modern times. No. -110 l'hôtel Rochechouart, built on land taken from the nuns of -Bellechasse, inhabited at one time by Marshal Lames, duc de Montebello, -is the Ministère de l'Instruction Publique. At No. 97 Saint Simon wrote -his diaries and in 1755 died here. No. 106, in 1755 Temple du -Panthémont, the abode of a community of nuns from the Benedictine abbey -near Beauvais, was sold in lots after the Revolution; its chapel was -taken for a Protestant church. No. 87, known in a past age as hôtel de -Grimberghe, has a fine staircase. No. 104 formed part of the Panthémont -convent. No. 85, l'hôtel d'Avaray 1718, abode, in 1727, of Horace -Walpole when ambassador. No. 83 hôtel de Bonneval, 1763. No. 81, Russian -Embassy, was built by Cotte in 1709 for the duchesse d'Estrées. No. 102 -was built by Lisle Mansart in the first years of the eighteenth century. -At No. 90 we turn for an instant into Rue St-Simon to look at the Latin -inscriptions on Nos. 4-2, dating, however, only from 1881. No. 77, École -Libre, originally l'hôtel de la Motte-Houdancourt, was inhabited in -recent times by marquis de Gallifet. No. 75, seventeenth century, built -by Cardinal d'Estrées. No. 88 l'hôtel de Noailles. No. 73, Italian -Embassy, built by Legrand in 1775. At No. 71, annexed to the Italian -Embassy, the duke of Alba died in 1771. - -The fine Fontaine des Quatre Saisons, dating from 1737, erected by -Bouchandon, was inaugurated by Turgot, Prévôt des Marchands in 1749. -Here, at No. 59, Alfred de Musset lived and wrote from 1824 to 1840. No. -36, "A la Petite Chaise," dates from 1681; No. 25, hôtel de Hérissey, -from 1747. No. 15 is on the site of an ancient hôtel Beauvais. No. 20 -Petit hôtel de Beauvais, 1687. The modern house and garage at Nos. 16-18 -are on the site of a house owned by a nephew of La Fontaine and which -was inhabited by the Beauharnais. At No. 11 we find vestiges of the -_hôtel_ of Pierre de Beauvais, a fine mansion, where the Doge of Venise, -come to Paris to make obeisance to Louis XIV, stayed in 1686; a convent -subsequently, then the Mairie of the district till 1865, when the -lengthening of Rue des Saints-Pères swept it away. - -Rue St-Dominique, like Rue de Grenelle in ancient days a country -road--"Chemin aux Vaches," then "Chemin de la Justice"--grew into a -thoroughfare of fine _hôtels_, some still standing, others swept away by -the cutting of the modern boulevard St-Germain or incorporated in the -newer _hôtels_ there. It is the district of the Gros Caillou, the great -stone, which once marked the bounds of the abbey grounds of -St-Germain-des-Prés. The fountain at No. 129, dating from the early -years of the nineteenth century, is by Beauvalet. The Hygia healing a -warrior we see sculptured there reminds us of the military hospital -recently demolished. The church St-Pierre du Gros-Caillou dates from -1738, on the site of a chapel built there in 1652. In the court at No. -94 we find an old pavilion. A curious old house at No. 74, an old -courtyard at No. 66. At No. 81 an ancient inn had once the sign "Le -Canon ci-devant Royal." No. 67 was the "Palais des Vaches laitières." -No. 32 l'hôtel Beaufort. No. 57 l'hôtel de Sagan, built in 1784 for the -princesse de Monaco, _née_ Brignole-Salé, now in the hands of an -antiquarian. No. 53 l'hôtel de la princesse de Kunsky, 1789. At No. 49 -we find an eighteenth-century _hôtel_ in the court. The fine _hôtel_ at -No. 28, 1710, was at one time the Nunciate. No. 47 l'hôtel de -Seiguelay, where at the beginning of the nineteenth century gas, newly -invented, was first used. No. 45 hôtel Comminges. No. 43 hôtel de -Ravannes. No. 41 is ancient. At Nos. 22-20 we see the name of the street -" ... Dominique," the word saint suppressed in Revolution days. No. 35 -l'hôtel de Broglie. Nos. 16-14, built in 1730, now the War Minister's -official dwelling (1730), in Napoléon's time the Paris home of his -mother, "Madame Laetitia." In the first of these two _hôtels_, joined to -make one, we see Louis XV woodwork decorations, "Empire" decorations in -the other. No. 33 l'hôtel Panouse. - -The church Ste-Clotilde, 1846-56, is built on the site of a demolished -Carmelite convent. The fine bas-reliefs by Pradier and Duret are the -best work there. Nos. 12, 10, 8, Ministère de la Guerre since 1804, was -once the couvent des Filles de St-Joseph, founded 1640. No. 11, site of -the Pavillon de Bellechasse, the home of Mme de Genlis. Nos. 5-3 l'hôtel -de Tavannes. Gustave Doré died at No. 5, in 1883. No. 1, _hôtel_ of duc -de Mortemart, built 1695, where we see an oval court. - -Rue Solférino, No. 1, the chancellerie de la Légion d'Honneur (see p. -205). - -Rue de l'Université, so long and interesting a thoroughfare, recalls the -days when the Pré-aux-Clercs through which it was cut was the classic -promenade of Paris students. It was known in its early days as Rue de la -Petite-Seyne, then as Rue du Pré-aux-Clercs. The seventeenth century saw -a series of lawsuits between the landowners and the University, the -latter claiming certain rights and privileges there. The University was -the losing party, the only right conceded to Alma Mater was that of -giving her name to the old street. No. 182, an ancient _garde-meuble_ -and statuary _dépôt_, was in recent days Rodin's _atelier_. No. 137 was -built about 1675 with the stones left over at the building of les -Invalides. No. 130, Ministère des Affaires Étrangères, is modern. No. -128 the official dwelling of the président de la Chambre. No. 126 Palais -Bourbon (_see_ p. 304). No. 108, Turgot died here in 1781. No. 102 was -the abode of the duc d'Harcourt in 1770. The side of the Ministère de la -Guerre we see at No. 73, a modern erection, is on the site of several -historic _hôtels_ demolished to make way for it and for the new -boulevard. Lamartine lived at No. 88 in 1848, after living in 1843 at -No. 80. No. 78 was built by Harduin-Mansart in the seventeenth century. -No. 72 was l'hôtel de Guise (1728). Mme Atkins (_see_ p. 205) lived at -l'hôtel Mailly, in what is now Rue de Villersexel, in 1816. The -remarkably fine hôtel de Soyecourt at No. 51 dates from 1775. No. 43 -l'hôtel de Noailles. Alphonse Daudet died at No. 41 (1897). No. 35 was -the home of Valdeck-Rousseau. The Magasins du Petit-St-Thomas, built on -the site of the ancient hôtel de l'Université (seventeenth century), -inhabited at one time by the duc de Valentinois, by Henri d'Aguesseau, -etc., have been razed to make way for a big new bank. Montyon, the -philanthropist, founder of the Virtue prizes given yearly by the French -Academy, died at No. 23 in the year 1820 (_see_ p. 225). No. 15 built in -1685 for a notable Fermier-général. No. 13 was in 1772 the site of the -Venetian Embassy. At No. 24, in the court, we see a fine old -eighteenth-century _hôtel_ built by Servandoni. The houses No. 18 and -No. 20 were built upon the old gardens of la Reine Margot, which -stretched down here from her palace, Rue de Seine. From the Place du -Palais-Bourbon, due to Louis de Bourbon, prince de Condé, we see one -side of the Chambre des Députés, built as the Palais-Bourbon by a -daughter of Louis XIV (1722). It was enlarged later by the prince de -Condé, confiscated in 1780 and renamed Maison de la Révolution, almost -entirely rebuilt under Napoléon. Its Grecian peristyle dates from 1808. -In 1816 a prince de Condé was again in possession. The Government bought -it back in 1827 and built the present Salle des Séances. In Rue de -Bourgogne, on the other side of the _place_, we find several -eighteenth-century _hôtels_. No. 48 was hôtel Fitz-James. No. 50 has -been the archbishop's palace since 1907. Mgr. Richard died there in -1908. - -The Champ-de-Mars, wholly modern as we see it, surrounded by brand new -streets and avenues, stretches across ancient historic ground. Not yet -so named, the territory was a veritable _champ de Mars_ more than a -thousand years ago when, in 888, the warrior bishop Eudes, at the head -of his Parisians, faced the Norman invaders there and forced them to -retreat. Towards the close of the eighteenth century the great space was -enclosed as the exercising-ground of the École Militaire. The Fête -Nationale de la Fédération was held there on 14th July, 1790, presided -by Talleyrand; a year later, 17th July, 1791, La Fayette-Bailly fired -upon the mob that gathered here, clamouring for the deposition of the -King. At the corner where the Avenue de la Bourdonnais now passes the -guillotine was set up for the execution of Bailly in 1793. On June 8th, -1794, the people from far and near crowded here for the Fête de l'Être -Suprême. In 1804 the Champ-de-Mars was called for a time Champ-de-Mai. -But it remained, nevertheless, the site of military displays. Napoléon's -eagles and the new decoration, la Légion d'Honneur, were first bestowed -here, and when, in 1816, Louis XVIII mounted the throne of France, it -was on the Champ-de-Mars that soldiers and civilians received once more -the _drapeau blanc_. - -Horse-races took place here. Here, so long ago as 1783, the first -primitive airship was sent up. Also, later, a giant balloon. The great -exhibition of 1798 and all succeeding great exhibitions, as well as many -smaller ones, were held on the Champ-de-Mars. The park we see was laid -out in 1908. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX - -ANCIENT STREETS OF THE FAUBOURG SAINT-GERMAIN - - -The extensive district on the left bank of the Seine, through which was -cut in modern times the wide boulevard St-Germain, was in its remotest -days the Villa Sancti Germani, with its "_prés-aux-clercs_" a rural -expanse surrounding the abbey and quite distinct from the city of Paris, -without its bounds. The inhabitants of that privileged district were -exempt from Paris "rates and taxes," to use our latter-day expression, -and enjoyed other legal immunities. They were subject only to the -authority of the abbey administration and were actively employed in -agricultural and other rustic occupations for the abbey benefit. The -territory was a region of thatched-roofed dwellings, barns and -granaries. When at length certain _grands seigneurs_ chose the district -for the erection of country mansions, these newly built houses were soon -forcibly abandoned, many of them destroyed, in the course of the Hundred -Years' War. A century or more later more mansions were built and the -bourg St-Germain grew into the aristocratic quarter it finally became -after the erection of the Tuileries, Catherine de' Medeci's new palace, -in the middle of the sixteenth century. The venerable old Rue du Bac was -made on the left bank of the Seine in a straight line with the ford -(_bac_) across the river in the year 1550, for the transport of -materials needed in the construction of the palace. The rough road -along which the carters came with their loads, stone from the southern -quarries, etc., grew into a fashionable street in the early years of the -century following, when, after due authorization of the abbé of -St-Germain-des-Prés, fine new _hôtels_ were built in every direction -across the Prè-aux-Clercs, to be within easy distance of the Tuileries -and the Court. Thus was created, in the first years of the eighteenth -century, the patrician Faubourg St-Germain. The old houses in Rue du Bac -which were nearest the river were burnt by the Communards in 1871, when -the Tuileries itself was destroyed. - -The headquarters of the Mousquetaires Gris was once on the site of the -houses Nos. 18-17. Many seventeenth- and eighteenth-century houses still -stand. At No. 37 we find an old and interesting court. No. 46, hôtel -Bernard, was successively inhabited by men of note, much of its ancient -interior decoration has been removed. No. 94 belonged till recently to -the Frères Chrétiens. No. 85 was once the royal monastery known as les -Récollettes, subsequently in turn a theatre, a dancing saloon, a concert -hall. At No. 98 Pichegru is said to have passed his first night in -Paris. Here the Chouans held their secret meetings and Cadoudal lay in -hiding. We see a fine door, balcony and staircase at No. 97. No. 101 -dates from the time of Louis XIV. Nos. 120-118, hôtel de -Clermont-Tonnerre; Chateaubriand died here in 1848. No. 128 is the -Séminaire des Missions Étrangères, founded 1663 by Bernard de -Ste-Thérèse, bishop of Babylone. No. 136 hôtel de Crouseilhes. No. 140 -began as a _maladrerie_, was later the abode of the King's falconer, and -was given in 1813 to the Order of St-Vincent-de-Paul. Mme Legras, -St-Vincent-de-Paul's ardent fellow-worker, was buried in the chapel. -The great shops of the Bon Marché stretch where private mansions stood -of yore. - -Rue de Lille, formerly Rue de Bourbon, has many ancient houses. We see -in the wall of No. 14 an old sundial with inscriptions in Latin. At No. -26 we find vestiges of a chapel founded by Anne d'Autriche. No. 67, -built in 1706 for President Duret, was annexed later to the _hôtel_ of -prince Monaco-Valentinois. No. 79, hôtel de Launion, 1758, was the house -of Charlotte Walpole, who became Mrs. Atkins, the devoted friend of the -Bourbons, and spent a fortune in her efforts to save the Dauphin. She -died here in 1836. No. 64, built in 1786 for the prince de Salm-Kyrburg, -was gained in a lottery by a wig-maker's assistant, in the first days of -the First Empire, an adventurer who bought the pretty palace of -Bagatelle beyond Paris, was arrested for forgery, then disappeared. Used -as a club, then, in 1804, as the palace of the Légion d'Honneur, it was -burnt by the Communards in 1871, rebuilt at the cost of the -_légionnaires_ in 1878. No. 78, built by Boffrand, was the home of -Eugène de Beauharnais; we see there the bedroom of Queen Hortense. -German Embassy before the war. - -Rue de Verneuil is another seventeenth-century street built across the -Pré-aux-Clercs. Nos. 13-15 was first a famous eighteenth-century -riding-school, then the Académie Royale Dugier; later, till 1865, Mairie -of the arrondissement. The inn at No. 24 was the meeting-place of -royalists in the time of the Empire. - -Rue de Beaume has several interesting _hôtels_, their old-time features -well preserved. In the seventeenth century Carnot's ancestors lived -between the Nos. 17-25. At No. 10 we see remains of the headquarters of -the Mousquetaires Gris, which extended across the meeting-point of the -four streets: Beaume, Verneuil, Bac, Lille. No. 2 was l'hôtel -Mailly-Nesle. - -Rue des Saints-Pères marks the boundary-line between arrondissements VI -and VII, an old-world street of historic associations. It began at the -close of the thirteenth century as Rue aux Vaches; cows passed there in -those days to and from the farmyards of the abbey St-Germain-des-Prés. -In the sixteenth century it was known, like Rue de Sèvres into which it -runs, as Rue de la Maladrerie, to become Rue des Jacobins Réformés, -finally Rue St-Pierre from the chapel built there, a name corrupted to -Saints-Pères. No. 2 l'hôtel de Tessé. No. 6 (1652) once the stables of -Marie-Thérèse de Savoie. No. 28 l'hôtel de Fleury (1768). The court of -No. 30 covers the site of an old Protestant graveyard. A few old houses -remain in Rue Perronet opening at No. 32, where once an abbey windmill -worked. No. 39 Hôpital de la Charité, an Order founded by Marie de' -Medici in 1602, its principal entrance Rue Jacob. Dislodged from their -original quarters in Rue de la Petite-Seine, where Rue Bonaparte now -runs, by Queen Margot, who wanted the site for the new palace she built -for herself on quitting l'hôtel de Sens, the nuns settled here about the -year 1608. At No. 40 we see medallions over the door, one of Charlotte -Corday, the other not, as sometimes said, that of Marat but a Moor's -head. In the court we see other medallions and mouldings made chiefly -from the sculptures on the tomb of François I at St-Denis. The hôtel de -la Force, where dwelt Saint-Simon, once stood close here. That and other -ancient _hôtels_ were razed to make way for the boulevard St-Germain. -No. 49, the chapel of the "frères de la Charité" on the site of the -ancient chapel St-Pierre of which the crypt still remains, has been the -medical Academy since 1881. The square adjoining it is an old Protestant -burial-ground. Nos. 50-52 are ancient. No. 54 is the French Protestant -library, Cuvier and Guizot were among its presidents. No. 56 was built -in 1640 for la Maréchale de la Meilleraie. At No. 63 Châteaubriand lived -from 1811 to 1814. - - - - -CHAPTER XXX - -THE MADELEINE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD - - -ARRONDISSEMENT VIII. (ÉLYSÉE) - -The handsome church which forms so distinct a feature of this quarter of -the city was begun to be built in the year 1764 to replace an older -church, originally a convent chapel, in the district known as Ville -l'Evêque because the bishop of Paris had a country house--a -villa--there. - -The Revolution found the new church unfinished, and when Napoléon was in -power he decided to complete the structure as a temple of military glory -to be dedicated to the Grande Armée. Napoléon fell. The building was -restored to the ecclesiastical authorities and its construction as a -church, dedicated to Ste. Marie-Madeleine, completed during the years -1828-42. Begun on the model of the Pantheon at Rome, the building was -finished on the plan of the Maison Carrée at Nismes. It is 108 mètres in -length, 43 m. broad. The fine Corinthian columns we see are forty-eight -in number. The great bronze doors are the largest church doors known. -Their splendid bas-reliefs are the work of Triquetti (1838). Specimens -of every kind of marble found in France have been used in the grand -interior. In the wonderful painting "l'Histoire de la France -Chrétienne," we see in the centre Pope Pius VII and Napoléon in the act -of making the Concordat, surrounded by King Clovis, Charlemagne, St. -Louis, Jeanne d'Arc, Henri IV, Sully, Louis XIII, etc. The statues and -other decorations are all modern, the work of the most distinguished -artists of the nineteenth century. The abbé Deguerry, vicar in 1871, -shot by the Communards, is buried there in the chapel Notre-Dame de la -Compassion. - -The _place_ surrounding the church dates from 1815. At No. 7 lived -Amédée Thierry (1820-29), Meilhac, and during fifty years Jules Simon -who died there in 1896. We see his statue before the house. Behind the -church we see the statue of Lavoisier, put to death at the Revolution. -The streets opening out of Place de la Madeleine are modern, cut across -ancient convent lands, and the old farm lands of les Mathurins. No. 5 -Rue Tronchet is said to have been at one time the home of Chopin. Rue de -l'Arcade, of yore "Chemin d'Argenteuil"--Argenteuil Road--got its name -from an arcade destroyed in the time of Napoléon III, which stretched -across the gardens of the convent of Ville l'Evêque, where the houses 15 -and 18 now stand. Several of the houses we see along the street date -from the eighteenth century, none are of special interest. - -Rue Pasquier brings us to the Square Louis XVI and the chapelle -Expiatoire built on the graveyard of the Madeleine. In that graveyard, -made in 1659 upon the convent kitchen garden, were buried many of the -most noted men and women of the tragic latter years of the eighteenth -century. There were laid the numerous victims of the fire on the Place -de la Concorde, at that time Place Louis XVI, caused by fireworks at the -festivities after the wedding of Louis XVI. The thousand Swiss Guards -who died to defend the Tuileries, Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette, Mme -Roland, Charlotte Corday and hundreds more of the _guillotinés_ were -buried there. When, in 1794, the churchyard was disaffected and put up -for sale, the whole territory was bought by an ardent royalist and under -Louis XVIII the chapel we see was built; an altar in the crypt marks the -spot where some of the remains of the King and Queen were found. - -Rue d'Anjou, opened in 1649, formerly Rue des Morfondus, has known many -illustrious inhabitants: Madame Récamier, the comtesse de Boigne, etc. -La Fayette died at No. 8 (1834). No. 22 dates from 1763. The Mairie was -originally the hôtel de Lorraine. Many of the ancient _hôtels_ have been -replaced by modern erections. - -In Rue de Surène, in olden days Suresnes Road, we see at No. 23 the -handsome hôtel de Lamarck-Arenberg, dating from 1775, and the petit -hôtel du Marquis de l'Aigle of about the same date. - -Rue de la Ville l'Évêque dates from the seventeenth century, recalling -by its name the days when, from the thirteenth century onwards, the -bishops of Paris had a rural habitation, a villa and perhaps a farm in -this then outlying district. Around the _villeta episcopi_ grew up a -little township included within the city bounds in the time of Louis XV. -The ancient thirteenth-century church, dedicated like its modern -successor to Ste-Marie-Madeleine, stood on the site of No. 11 of the -modern boulevard Malesherbes. The Benedictine convent close by, of later -foundation, built like the greater number of the most noted Paris -convents in the early years of the seventeenth century, was suppressed -and razed at the Revolution. Many noted persons of the eighteenth and -nineteenth centuries had their residences in the Ville l'Evêque. Guizot -died there in 1875. No. 16, l'hôtel du Maréchal Suchet, is now an -Institut. No. 20 the _hôtel_ of Prince Arenberg. No. 25-27 are ancient. - -Rue Boissy d'Anglas, opened in the eighteenth century, bearing for long -three different names in the different parts of its course, records in -its present name that of a famous conventional (1756-1826). In the -well-known provision shop, Corcellet, Avenue de l'Opéra, we may see the -portrait of the famous Gourmet, who in pre-Revolution days lived at the -fine mansion No. 1, now the Cercle artistique "l'Épatant," and carried -out there his luxurious and ultra-refined taste in the matter of food -and the manner of serving it. Horses to whom a _recherché cuisine_ could -not be offered, had their oats served to them in silver mangers. -Sequestered at the Revolution, it still remained the abode of a gourmet -of repute; sold later to the State, it became an Embassy, then a club. -No. 12 dates from Louis XV and has been the abode of several families of -historic name. Prince de Beauvau lived there in more modern days and -baron Hausmann died there. Lulli died at No. 28 (1637). Curious old -houses are seen in the Cité Berreyer and Cité du Retiro. - -Rue Royale, in its earliest days Chemin des Remparts--Rampart Road--for -the third Porte St-Honoré in the city wall was at the point where it -meets the Rue du Faubourg, became a street--Rue Royale-des-Tuileries--in -the middle of the eighteenth century. In 1792 it became Rue de la -Révolution, then, from 1800 to 1814, Rue de la Concorde. Most of the -houses we see there date from the eighteenth century, built by the -architect Gabriel, who lived at No. 8. Mme de Staël lived for a time at -No. 6. This leads us to Place de la Concorde, built by Gabriel; it was -opened in 1763 as Place Louis XV, to become a hundred and thirty years -later Place de la Révolution, with in its centre a statue of Liberty -replacing the overturned statue of the King. Its name was changed -several times during the years that followed, till in 1830 the name -given by the Convention was restored for good. In olden days it was -surrounded by moats and had on one side a _pont-tournant_; the _place_ -was the scene of national fêtes in times past as it is in our own times. -It was also not unfrequently the scene of tragedy and death. The -guillotine was set up there on January 21, 1793, for the execution of -the King. Marie-Antoinette, Charlotte Corday and many other notable -victims of the Revolution were beheaded there ... in the end, -Robespierre himself. In 1814 the Allies of those days gathered there for -the celebration of a grand _Te-Deum_. The statues we see surrounding the -vast place personify the great towns of France--that of Strasbourg the -most remarkable. The fine "Chevaux de Marly" at the starting-point of -the Champs-Elysées are the work of Coustou, Mercury and la Renommée, at -the entrance of the Tuileries gardens, of Coysevox. Handsome buildings -(eighteenth century) flank the _place_ on its northern side. The -Ministère de la Marine was in pre-Revolution days the _garde meuble_ of -the Kings of France. Splendid jewels, including the famous diamond known -as le Regent, were stolen thence in 1792. What is now the Automobile -Club was for many years the official residence of the papal Nuncio. -L'hôtel Crillon, built as a private mansion, was for a time the Spanish -Embassy; most of the beautiful woodwork for which it was noted has been -sold and taken away. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI - -LES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES - - -This wonderful avenue stretching through the whole length of the -arrondissement reached in olden days only to the rural district of -Chaillot, and was known as the Grande Allée-du-Roule, later as Avenue -des Tuileries. Colbert, Louis XIV's great minister, first made it a -tree-planted avenue. The gardens bordering it on either side between -Place de la Concorde and Avenue d'Antin, were laid out by Le Nôtre, -1670, as Crown land. Cafés, restaurants, toy-stalls, etc., were set up -there from the first. The Palais de Glace is on the site of a Panorama -which existed till its destruction by fire in 1855. The far-famed Café -des Ambassadeurs, set up in the eighteenth century, was rebuilt in 1841. -The no less famous cirque de l'Impératrice was razed in 1900. - -The Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées was first laid out in 1670, but the -houses we see there now are all modern. Avenue d'Antin stretching on -either side of it, old only in the part leading from Cours-la-Reine, was -planted in 1723 by the duc d'Orléans. Marguerite Gauthier (la Dame aux -Camélias) lived at No. 9. At No. 3 Avenue Matignon Heine died in his -room on the fifth story (1856). Avenue Montaigne was known in 1731 as -Allée des Veuves. It remained an alley--Allée Montaigne--till 1852. The -thatched dwelling of Mme Tallien stood at its starting-point, near the -Seine. There her divorced and destitute husband was forced to accept a -shelter at the hands of his ex-wife, become princesse de Chimay; there -the Revolutionist died in 1820. We see only modern houses along the -Avenue of to-day. Rue Matignon was opened across the ancient Jardin -d'hiver where fine tropical plants erewhile had flourished. No. 12 was -the Vénerie Impériale. - -Avenue des Champs-Élysées is bordered on both sides by modern mansions. -No. 25, hôtel de la Païve, of late years the Traveller's Club, during -the war an ambulance, represents the style of the Second Empire. Avenue -Gabriel with its grand mansions was formed in 1818 on the -Marais-des-Gourdes--marshy land. The Rue Marbeuf was in the eighteenth -century Ruelle des Marais, then Rue des Gourdes. Its present name -recalls the Louis XV Folie Marboeuf once there. Few and far between -are the ancient vestiges to be found among the modern structures we see -on every side around us here. Rue Chaillot, in bygone days the chief -street of the village of Chaillot, was taken within the Paris bounds in -1860. It was a favourite street for residence in the nineteenth century. -Rue Bassano, entirely modern now, existed in part as Ruelle des Jardins -in the early years of the eighteenth century. Rue Galilée was Chemin des -Bouchers in 1790, then Rue du Banquet. - -So we come to la Place de l'Étoile, the high ground known in long-gone -times as "la Montagne du Roule." Till far into the eighteenth century it -was without the city bounds and beyond the Avenue des Champs-Élysées -which ended at Rue de Chaillot, a tree-studded, unlevelled, grass-grown -octagonal stretch of land. Then it was made round and even, and became a -favourite and fashionable promenade, known as l'Étoile de Chaillot, or -the Rond-Point de Neuilly. The site had long been marked out for the -erection of an important monument when Napoléon decreed the construction -there of the Arc de Triomphe. The first stone of the arch was laid by -Chalgrin in 1806, the Emperor and his new wife, on their wedding-day -passed beneath a temporary Arc de Triomphe made of cloth, as the stone -structure was not yet finished. Of the statuary which decorate the arch, -the most noted group is the Départ, by Rude. The frieze shows the going -forth to battle and the return of Napoléon's armies, with the names of -his generals engraved beneath.[F] - - - - -CHAPTER XXXII - -FAUBOURG ST-HONORÉ - - -Turning down Avenue Wagram, one of the twelve broad avenues, all modern, -branching from the Place de l'Étoile, we come to the Faubourg St-Honoré, -originally Chaussée du Roule. The village of Le Roule was famed in the -thirteenth century for its goose-market. The district became a faubourg -in 1722 and in 1787 was taken within the city bounds. It has always been -a favourite quarter among men of intellectual activity desiring to live -beyond the turbulence of the centre of Paris. Here and there we come -upon vestiges of bygone days. No. 222 is an old Dominican convent -disaffected in 1906. A foundry once stood at the corner of the Rue -Balzac, where public statues of kings and other royalties of old were in -turn cast or melted down. The house where Balzac died once stood close -there too, up against an ancient chapel--all long swept away. The walled -garden remains--bordering the street to which the name of the great -novelist has been given--a slab put up where we see, just above the -wall, the top of a pillared summer-house, which Balzac is said to have -built. The hospital Beaujon dates from 1784 but has no architectural or -historical interest. The few ancient houses we see at intervals in this -upper part of the faubourg are remains of the village du Roule. Several -of more interesting aspect were razed a few years ago. The military -hospital was once the site of royal stables. Mme de Genlis died at No. -170. - -The church St-Philippe du Roule was built by Chalgrin in 1774 on the -site of the seventeenth-century hôtel du Bas-Roule. No. 107 was the -habitation of the King's Pages under Louis XV. On the site of No. 81 -comte de Fersan had his stables in the time of Louis XVI. The Home -Office (Ministère de l'Intérieur) on Place Beauvau dates from the -eighteenth century and has been a private mansion, a municipal _hôtel_, -a hotel in the English sense of the word. - -The Palais de l'Élysée, built in 1718, was bought in 1753 by Mme de -Pompadour. La Pompadour died at Versailles, but by her express wish her -body was taken to Paris and laid in this her Paris home before the -funeral. She bequeathed the _hôtel_ to the comte de Province, but Louis -XV used it for State purposes. Then, become again a private residence, -it was inhabited by the duchesse de Bourbon, mother of the due -d'Enghien. She let it later to the tenant who made of it an _Élysée_, a -pleasure-house, laid out a _parc anglais_, gave sumptuous _fêtes -champêtres_. Sequestered at the Revolution, the mansion was sold -subsequently to Murat and Caroline Buonaparte, then became an imperial -possession as l'Élysée-Napoléon. Napoléon gave it to Joséphine at her -divorce but she preferred Malmaison. There the Emperor signed his second -abdication and there, in 1815, the Duke of Wellington and the Emperor of -Russia made their abode. The next occupants were the duc and duchesse de -Berry. The duchesse left it after her husband's death in 1820. It became -l'Hôtellierie des Princes. In 1850 Napoléon as Prince-President made a -brief abode there before the _coup d'état_. The façade dates from his -reign as Napoléon III when, to cut it off from surrounding buildings, -he made the Rue de l'Élysée through its gardens. The Garde Nationale -took possession of it in 1871. It was saved from destruction under the -Commune by its _conservateur_, who placed counterfeited _scellés_. No. -41, hôtel Pontalba, built by Visconti on the site of an older _hôtel_, -now owned by one of the Rothschilds, has fine ancient woodwork, once at -hôtel St-Bernard, Rue du Bac. No. 39, the British Embassy, was built in -1720 for the duc de Charost; given in 1803 to Pauline Buonaparte, -princesse Borghese, given over to the English in 1815. British Embassy -since 1825. Nos. 35, 33, 31, 29, 27 are all eighteenth-century _hôtels_. -At No. 30 the Cité de Retiro was in past days the great Cour des Coches, -inhabited by the "Fermier des carrosses de la Cour." Nos. 24, 16 are -ancient. No. 14 was the Mairie till 1830. - -The streets opening out of the Faubourg date mostly from the eighteenth -century and show here and there traces of a past age, but the greater -number of the houses standing along their course to-day are of modern -construction. Rue d'Aguesseau was cut in 1723 across the property of the -Chancellor whose name it records. The Embassy church there is on the -site of the ancient hôtel d'Armaille. No. 18 was at one time the Mairie -of the 1st arrondissement. Rue Montalivet, where at No. 6 we see the -friendly front of the British Consulate, was for some years Rue du -Marché-d'Aguesseau. Rue des Saussaies was in the seventeenth century a -willow-tree bordered road. Place des Saussaies is modern on the site of -demolished eighteenth-century _hôtels_. In Rue Cambacérés we see ancient -_hôtels_ at Nos. 14, 8, 3. - -The first numbers in Rue Miromesnil are old and have interesting -decorations, Châteaubriand lived at No. 31 in 1804. Rue de Panthièvre -was Rue des Marais in the seventeenth century, then Chemin Vert. Its -houses were the habitation of many noted persons through the two -centuries following. Franklin is said to have lived at No. 26, also -Lucien Buonaparte. The barracks dates from 1780, one of those built for -the Gardes Françaises, who had previously been billeted in private -houses. Fersen lived in Rue Matignon; Gambetta at No. 12, Rue Montaigne -(1874-78). The Colisée, which gave its name to the street previously -known as Chaussée des Gourdes, was an immense hall used for festive -gatherings from 1770 to 1780, when it was demolished. On part of the -site it occupied, Rue Penthieu was opened at the close of the eighteenth -century and Rue de la Bôëtie into which we now turn. That fair street -was known in the different parts of its course by no less than eleven -different names before its present one, given in 1879. Several -eighteenth-century _hôtels_ still stand here; others on the odd number -side were razed in recent years to widen the thoroughfare. No. 111 was -inhabited for a time at the end of the eighteenth century by the then -duc de Richelieu. When Napoléon was in power, an Italian minister lived -there and gave splendid fêtes, at which the Emperor was a frequent -guest. In recent days its owner was the duc de Massa, grandson of -Napoléon's famous minister of Justice. Carnot lived for a time at No. -122. Eugène Sue at No. 55. Comtesse de la Valette at No. 44, a _hôtel_ -known for its extensive grounds. - -Rue de Berri, opened 1778, across the site of the royal nursery gardens, -went by several names before receiving that of the second son of Charles -X, assassinated in 1820. The Belgian Legation at No. 20 was built by the -aunt of Mme de Genlis and was in later times the home of princesse -Mathilde who died there in 1904. Rue Washington was opened in 1789; Rue -Galilée as chemin des Bouchers, then Rue du Banquet, in 1790. In Rue -Daru, of the same date, opened as Rue de la Croix du Roule, we see the -Russian church built in 1881, with its beautiful paintings and frescoes -and rich Oriental decorations. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIII - -PARC MONCEAU - - -We have already referred to Avenue Wagram. Modern buildings stretch -along the whole course of the other eleven avenues branching from Place -de l'Étoile. Avenue Hoche leads us to Parc Monceau, laid out on lands -belonging in past days to the Manor of Clichy, sold to the prince -d'Orléans in 1778, arranged as a smart _jardin anglais_ for -Philippe-Égalité in 1785, the property of the nation in 1794, restored -to the Orléans by Louis XVIII, bought by the State in 1852, given to the -city authorities in 1870. The Renaissance arcade is a relic of the -ancient hôtel de Ville, burnt down in 1871. The oval _bassin_, called -"la Naumachie," with its Corinthian columns, came from an old church at -St-Denis, Notre-Dame de la Rotonde, built as the burial-place of the -Valois, razed in 1814. Avenue Friedland was opened in 1719, across the -site of a famous eighteenth-century public garden and several demolished -_hôtels_, and lengthened to its present extent some fifty years later. -Avenue Marceau was of yore Avenue Joséphine. - -Rue de Monceau, opened in 1801, lies along the line of the old road to -the vanished village of Monceau or Musseau. Rue du Rocher, along the -course of a Roman road, has gone by different names in its different -parts. Its upper end, waste ground until well into the nineteenth -century, at the close of the eighteenth century was a Revolutionists' -meeting-place, and there in the tragic months of 1794 many _guillotinés_ -were buried, among them the two Robespierres. In later years a dancing -saloon was set up on the spot. It was a district of windmills. The -Moulin de la Marmite, Moulin Boute-à-Feu, Moulin-des-Prés, stood on the -high ground above Gare St-Lazare until a century ago. Few vestiges of -the past remain. Rue de Laborde was known in 1788 as Rue des Grésillons, -i.e. Flour Street (_grésillons_, the flour in its third stage of -grinding). Then it became Chemin des Porcherons, and the district was -known as that of la Petite-Pologne, a reference to the habitation there -of the duc d'Anjou, who was King of Poland. In the courtyard of No. 4 we -find an ancient boundary-stone, once in Rue de l'Arcade, where it marked -the bounds of the city under Louis XV. - -Rue de la Pépinière, its name and that of the barracks there so well -known of late to British soldiers, recording the site of the royal -nursery grounds of a past age, was marked out as early as 1555, but -opened only in 1782. The barracks, first built in 1763 for the Gardes -Françaises, was rebuilt under Napoléon III. All other streets in the -neighbourhood are modern. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIV - -IN THE VICINITY OF THE OPERA - - -ARRONDISSEMENT IX. (OPÉRA) - -The Paris Opera-house was built between the years 1861-75 to replace the -structure in Rue le Peletier burnt to the ground in 1873. On its ornate -Renaissance façade we see, amid other statuary, the noted group "La -Danse," the work of Carpeaux. Of the "Grands Boulevards," by which the -Opera is surrounded, we shall speak later (_see_ p. 297). - -Most of the streets in its neighbourhood are modern, stretching across -the site of demolished buildings, important in their day, but of which -few traces now remain. - -Rue des Mathurins lies across the grounds of the vanished convent, Ville -l'Évêque. Rue Tronchet runs where was once the Ferme des Mathurins -(_see_ p. 224). - -Rue Caumartin, opened 1779, records the name of the Prévôt des Marchands -of the day. It was a short street then, lengthened later by the old -adjoining streets Ste-Croix and Thiroux, the site erewhile of the famed -_porcelaine_ factory of la Reine. (Marie-Antoinette). No. 1 dates from -1779 and was noted for its gardens arranged in Oriental style. No. 2, -to-day the Paris Sporting Club, dates from the same period. No. 2 _bis_ -and most of the other houses have been restored or rebuilt. The butcher -Legendre, who set the phrygian cap on the head of Louis XVI, is said to -have lived at No. 52. No. 65 was built as a Capucine convent (1781-83). -Sequestered at the Revolution, it became a hospital, then a _lycée_, its -name changed and rechanged: Lycée Buonaparte, Collège Bourbon, Lycée -Fontanes, finally Lycée Condorcet, while the convent chapel, rebuilt, -became the church St-Louis d'Antin. Rue Vignon was, till 1881, Rue de la -Ferme des Mathurins, as an inscription on the walls of No. 1 reminds us. -Rue de Provence, named after the brother of Louis XVI, was opened in -1771, built over a drain which went from Place de la République to the -Seine near Pont de l'Alma. No. 22 is an ancient house restored. Berlioz -lived at No. 41. Meissonier at No. 43. Nos. 45 to 65 are on the site of -the mansion and grounds of the duc d'Orléans which extended to Rue -Taitbout. We see a fine old _hôtel_ at No. 59. Cité d'Antin, opening at -No. 61, was built in 1825, on the site of the ancient hôtel Montesson. -Liszt, the pianist, lived at No. 63. The Café du Trèfle claims existence -since the year 1555. The busy, bustling Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin was -an important roadway in the twelfth century, as Chemin des Porcherons. -The houses we see there are mostly of eighteenth-century date, others -occupy the site of ancient demolished buildings. Many notable persons -lived here. No. 1, where we see the Vaudeville theatre (there since -1867), was of old the site of two historic mansions. No. 2, now a -fashionable restaurant, dates from 1792, built as Dépôt des Gardes -Françaises. Rossini lived there for one year--1857-58. Where Rue -Meyerbeer was opened in 1860 stood, in other days, the _hôtel_ of Mme -d'Épinay, whose walls had sheltered Grimm, and for a time Mozart. A -neighbouring house was the home of Necker, where his daughter, Mme de -Staël, grew up and which became later the possession of Mme Récamier. -The graveyard of St-Roch stretched, till the end of the eighteenth -century, across the site of Nos. 20-22. No. 42 belonged to Mme Talma. -There Mirabeau died in 1791; his widow in 1800. Joséphine de -Beauharnais, not yet Empress, dwelt at No. 62. Gambetta at No. 55. No. -68, hôtel Montfermeil, was rebuilt by Fesch, Napoléon's uncle. Rue -St-Lazare was, before 1770, Rue des Porcherons, from the name of an -important estate of the district over which the abbesses of Montmartre -had certain rights of jurisdiction. Passage de Tivoli, at No. 96, -recalls the first Tivoli with its _jardins anglais_ stretching far at -this corner. Its owner's head fell, severed by the guillotine, and his -_folie_ became national property. Fêtes were given there by the -Revolutionist authorities till its restoration, in 1810, to heirs of the -man who had built it. Avenue du Coq records the existence in -fourteenth-century days of a Château du Coq, known also as Château des -Porcherons, the manor-house of the Porcherons' estate. The Square de la -Trinité is on the site of a famous restaurant of past days, the -well-known "Magny," which as a dancing-saloon--"La Grande Pinte"--was on -the site till 1851. The church is modern (1867). No. 56 is part of the -hôtel Bougainville where the great tragedienne, Mlle Mars, lived. At No. -23, dating from the First Empire, we find a fine old staircase and in -the court a pump marked with the imperial eagle. Rue de Chateaudun is -modern. The _brasserie_ at the corner of Rue Maubeuge stands on the site -of the ancient cemetery des Porcherons. Rue de la Victoire, in the -seventeenth century Ruellette-au-Marais-des-Porcherons, was renamed in -1792 Rue Chantereine, referring to the very numerous frogs (RANA = frog) -which filled the air of that then marshy district with their croaking. -Buonaparte lived there at one time, hence the name given in 1798, taken -away in 1816, restored by Thiers in 1833. By a curious coincidence, an -Order of Nuns, "de la Victoire," so called to memorize a very much -earlier victory--Bouvines 1214--owned property here. On the site of No. -60, now a modern house let out in flats, stood in olden days the chief -entrance to l'hôtel de la Victoire, a remarkably handsome structure -built in 1770, sold and razed in 1857--alas! At the end of the court at -No. 58 we see the ancient hôtel d'Argenson, its _salon_ kept undisturbed -from the days when great politicians of the past met and made decisive -resolutions there. The Bains Chantereine at No. 46 has been théâtre -Olymphique, théâtre des Victoires Nationales, théâtre des Troubadours, -and was for a few days in 1804 l'Opéra Comique; No. 45, with its busts -and bas-reliefs, dates from 1840. Rue Taitbout, begun in 1773, -lengthened by the union of adjoining streets, records the name of an -eighteenth-century municipal functionary. Isabey, Ambroise Thomas and -Manuel Gracia lived in this old street, and at No. 1, now a smart -_café_, two noted Englishmen, the Marquis of Hertford and Lord Seymour, -lived at different periods. No. 2 was once the famous restaurant -Tortoni. No. 30, as a private _hôtel_, sheltered Talleyrand and Mme -Grand. We see interesting vestiges at No. 44. The Square d'Orléans is -the ancient Cité des Trois Frères, in past days a nest of artists and -men of letters: Dumas, George Sand, Lablache, etc. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXV - -ON THE WAY TO MONTMARTRE - - -Rue de Clichy was once upon a time the Roman road between Paris and -Rouen, taking in its way the village Cligiacum. For long in later days -it was known as Rue du Coq, when the old château stood near its line. It -was in a house of Rue de Clichy, inhabited by the Englishman Crawford, -that Marie-Antoinette and her children had a meal on the way to -Varennes. The three successive "Tivoli" were partly on the site of No. -27, in this old street. There too was the "Club de Clichy," whose -members opposed the government of the Directoire. The whole district -leading up to the heights of Montmartre was then, as now, a quarter of -popular places of amusement, the habitation of _artistes_ of varying -degree, but we find here few old-time vestiges. Where Rue Nouvelle was -opened in 1879 the prison de Clichy, a debtor's prison, had previously -stood. No. 81 is the four-footed animals' hospital founded in 1811. Zola -died at No. 21 Rue de Bruxelles. Heine lived from 1848-57 at No. 50 Rue -Amsterdam. Rue Blanche was Rue de la Croix-Blanche in the seventeenth -century. Berlioz lived at No. 43. Roman remains were found beneath Nos. -16-18. Rue Pigalle has been known by six or seven different names, at -one time that of Rue du Champ-de-Repos, on account of the proximity of -the cemetery St-Roch. No. 12 belonged to Scribe, who died there (1861). -No. 67 is an ancient station for post-horses. Place Pigalle was in past -days Place de la Barrière de Montmartre. The fountain is on the site of -the ancient custom-house. Puvis de Chavannes and Henner had their -studios at No. 11, now a restaurant. Rue de la Rochechouart made across -abbey lands, the lower part dating from 1672, records the name of an -abbess of Montmartre. Gounod lived at No. 17 in 1867. Halévy in 1841. -The Musée Gustave Moreau at No. 14 was the great artist's own _hôtel_, -bequeathed with its valuable collection to the State at his death in -1898. Marshal Ney lived at No. 12. In Rue de la Tour des Dames a -windmill tower, the property of the nuns of Montmartre, stood -undisturbed from the fifteenth century to the early part of the -nineteenth. The modern mansion at No. 3 (1822) is on land belonging in -olden days to the Grimaldi. Talma died in 1826 at No. 9. Rue la Bruyère -has always been inhabited by distinguished artists and literary men. -Berlioz lived for a time at No. 45. Rue Henner, named after the artist -who died at No. 5 Rue la Bruyère, is the old Rue Léonie. We see an -ancient and interesting house at No. 13. No. 12 hôtel des Auteurs et -Compositeurs Dramatiques, a society founded in 1791 by Beaumarchais. - -Rue de Douai reminds us through its whole length of noted literary men -and artists of the nineteenth century. Halévy and also notable artists -have lived at No. 69. Ivan Tourgueneff at No. 50. Francisque Sarcey at -No. 59. Jules Moriac died at No. 32 (1882). Gustave Doré and also Halévy -lived for a time at No. 22. Claretie at No. 10. Edmond About owned No. -6. - -The old Rue Victor-Massé was for long Rue de Laval in memory of the last -abbess of Montmartre. At No. 9, the abode of an antiquarian, we see -remarkably good modern statuary on the Renaissance frontage. No. 12 -till late years was l'hôtel de Chat Noir, the first of the artistic -_montmartrois cabarets_ due to M. Salis (1881). At No. 26 we turn into -Avenue Frochot, where Alexandre Dumas, _père_, lived, where at No. 1 the -musical composer Victor Massé died (1884), and of which almost every -house is, or once was, the abode of artists. Passing down Rue -Henri-Monnier, formerly Rue Breda, which with Place Breda was, during -the first half of the nineteenth century, a quarter forbidden to -respectable women, we come to Rue Notre-Dame de Lorette. It dates from -the same period as the church built there (1823-37), and wherein we see -excellent nineteenth-century frescoes and paintings. This street, like -most of those around it, has been inhabited by men of distinction in art -or letters: Isabey, Daubigny, etc. Mignet lived there in 1849. Rue -St-Georges dates from the early years of the eighteenth century. Place -St-Georges was opened a century later on land belonging to the Dosne -family. Mme Dosne and her son-in-law lived at No. 27. The house was -burnt down in 1871, rebuilt by the State, given to l'Institut by Mlle -Dosne in 1905, and organized as a public library of contemporary -history. Nos. 15-13, now the _Illustration_ office, date from 1788. -Auber died at No. 22 (1871). The _hôtel_ at No. 2 was owned by Barras -and inhabited at one time by Mme Tallien. - -The three busy streets, Rue Laffitte, Rue le Peletier, Rue Drouot, start -from boulevard des Italiens, cross streets we have already looked into, -and are connected with others of scant historic interest. - -Rue Laffitte, so named in 1830 in memory of the great financier who laid -the foundation of his wealthy future when an impecunious lad, by -stooping, under the eye of the commercial magnate waiting to interview -him, to pick up a pin that lay in his path. Laffitte died Regent of the -Banque de France. So popular was he that when after 1830 he found -himself forced to sell his handsome mansion No. 19--l'hôtel de la -Borde--a national subscription was got up enabling him to buy it back. -Offenbach lived at No. 11. At No. 12 we find an interesting old court. -The great art lover and collector, the Marquis of Hertford, lived at No. -2, the old hôtel d'Aubeterre. No. 1, once known as la Maison Dorée, now -a post office, was the old hôtel Stainville inhabited by the Communist -Cerutti who, in his time, gave his name to the street. Mme Tallien also -lived there. For some years before 1909 it was the much frequented -Taverne Laffitte. - -In Rue Le Peletier, the Opera-house burnt down in 1783, was from the -early years of the nineteenth century on the site of two old mansions: -l'hôtel de Choiseul and l'hôtel de Grammont. On the site of No. 2, -Orsini tried to assassinate Napoléon III. At No. 22 we see a Protestant -church built in the time of Napoléon I. - -Rue Drouot, the Salle des Ventes, the great Paris "Auction-rooms" at No. -9, built in 1851, is on the site of the ancient hôtel Pinon de Quincy, -subsequently a Mairie. The present Mairie of the arrondissement at No. 6 -dates from 1750. In the Revolutionary year 1792 it was the War Office, -then the Salon des Étrangers where masked balls were given: les bals des -Victimes. No. 2 the _Gaulois_ office, almost wholly rebuilt at the end -of the eighteenth century and again in 1811, was originally a fine -mansion built in 1717, the home of Le Tellier, later of the duc de -Talleyrand, and later still the first Paris Jockey Club (1836-57). The -famous dancer Taglioni also lived here at one time. - -Rue Grange-Batelière was a farm--_la grange bataillée_--with fortified -towers, owned in the twelfth century by the nuns of Ste-Opportune. At -No. 10 we see the handsome _hôtel_ with fine staircase and statues, -built in 1785 for a gallant captain of the Gardes Françaises. There in -the days of Napoléon III was the Cercle Romantique, where Victor Hugo, -A. de Musset and other literary celebrities were wont to meet. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVI - -ON THE SLOPES OF THE _BUTTE_ - - -The Rue du Faubourg Montmartre is one of the most ancient of Paris -roadways, for it led, from the earliest days of French history, to the -hill-top where St-Denis and his two companions had been put to death. -Only once has the ancient name been changed--at the Revolution, when it -was for a time Faubourg Marat. We see here a few old-time houses. The -bathing establishment at No. 4 was a private _hôtel_ in the days of -Louis XV. Scribe lived at No. 7. The ancient cemetery _chapelle_, -St-Jean-Porte-Latine, stood from 1780-1836 on the site of No. 60. - -Rue des Martyrs, named in memory of the Christian missionaries who -passed there to their death, so called in its whole length only since -1868, has ever been the habitation of artists. We see few interesting -vestiges. From 1872 it has been a market street. Costermongers' carts -line it from end to end several days a week. The restaurant de la Biche -at No. 37 claims to date from 1662. The once-famous restaurant du Faisan -Doré was at No. 7. The short streets opening out of this long one date -for the most part from the early years of the nineteenth century and -form, with the longer ones of the district, the Paris artists' quarter. - -Rue de la Tour d'Auvergne records the name of an abbess of Montmartre. -Victor Hugo lived at No. 41 at the time of the _coup d'état_, fled -thence to exile in England. The school at No. 31 is on the site of -gardens once hired for the children of the duc d'Orléans, the pupils of -Mme de Genlis, to play in, then owned by Alphonse Karr. We see at No. 14 -a charming statue "Le joueur de flute." - -Rue Rochechouart records the name of another abbess. At No. 7, now a -printing house, abbé Loyson gave his lectures. Rue Cadet, formerly Rue -de la Voirie, records the name of a family of gardeners, owners of the -Clos Cadet, from the time of Charles IX. Nos. 9, 16, 24 are -eighteenth-century structures. Rue Richer was known in the earlier years -of the eighteenth century as Rue de l'Égout. Augustin Thierry lived here -for two years (1831-33). No. 18 was the office of the modern -revolutionary paper _La Lanterne_. Marshal Ney lived at the _hôtel_ -numbered 13. The Folies Bergères at No. 32 was built in 1865 on the site -of the _hôtel_ of comte Talleyrand-Périgord. In Rue Saulnier, recording -the name of another famous family of gardeners, we see at No. 21 the -house once inhabited by Rouget de Lisle, composer of the "Marseillaise." -Rue Bergère was in seventeenth-century days an _impasse_. Casimir -Delavigne lived at No. 5. Scribe in his youth at No. 7, in later life at -a _hôtel_ on the site of No. 20, which was in eighteenth-century days -the home of M. d'Étiolles, the husband of La Pompadour. The Comptoir -d'Escompte at No. 14 was built in 1848, on the site of several old -_hôtels_, notably hôtel St-Georges, the home of the marquis de Mirabeau, -father of the orator. - -Rue du Faubourg Poissonière, its odd numbers in the 9th its even ones in -the 10th arrondissement, shows us many interesting old houses and we -find quaint old streets leading out of it. It dates as a thoroughfare -from the middle of the seventeenth century, named then Chaussée de la -Nouvelle France. Later it was Rue Ste-Anne, from an ancient chapel in -the vicinity, yielding finally in the matter of name to the -all-important fish-market to which it led--the poissonnerie des Halles. -In the court at No. 2 we find a Pavillon Louis XVI. The crimson walls of -the _Matin_ office was in past days the private _hôtel_ where colonel de -la Bedoyère was arrested (1815). We see interesting old houses at Nos. -9-13. No. 15, in old days hôtel des Menus Plaisirs du Roi, was with two -adjoining houses taken at the end of the eighteenth century for the -Conservatoire de Musique, an institution founded (1784) by the marquis -de Breteuil, as the École Royale de Chant et de Déclamation, with the -special aim of training _artistes_ for the court theatre. Closed at the -Revolution, it was reopened in calmer days and, under the direction of -Cherubini, became world-famed. Ambroise Thomas died there in 1895. In -1911 the Conservatoire was moved away to modern quarters in Rue de -Madrid and the old building razed. - -The balcony on the garden side at No. 19, an eighteenth-century house -with many interesting vestiges, is formed of a fifteenth-century -gravestone. Cherubini lived at No. 25. The church St-Eugène which we see -in Rue Cecile, its interior entirely of cast iron, was so named by -Napoléon III's express wish as a souvenir of his wedding. The fine -_hôtel_ at No. 30 was the home of Marshal Ney. Nos. 32, 42, 42 _bis_, 52 -and 56 where Corot died in 1875, the little vaulted Rue Ambroise-Thomas, -opening at No. 57, the fine house at No. 58, and Nos. 65 and 80, all -show us characteristic old-time features. At No. 82 we see an infantry -barracks, once known as la Nouvelle France, a Caserne des Gardes -Françaises. Its canteen is said to be the old bedroom of "sergeant -Bernadotte," destined to become King of Sweden. Here Hoche, too, was -sergeant. The bathing establishment of Rue de Montholon, opening out of -the faubourg at No. 89, was the home of Méhul, author of _le Chant du -Départ_; he died here in 1817. The street records the family name of the -General who went with Napoléon to St. Helena. Another abbess of -Montmartre is memorized by Rue Bellefond, a seventeenth-century street -opening at No. 107. The first Paris gasworks was set up on the site of -No. 129. At No. 138 we see a wooden house, in Gothic style, beautifully -made, owned and lived in by a carpenter who plies his trade there. -Avenue Trudaine is modern (1821), named in memory of a Prévôt des -Marchands of the seventeenth and early years of the eighteenth century. -The Collège Rollin, at No. 12, is on the site of the ancient Montmartre -slaughterhouses. The painter Alfred Stevens died at No. 17 in 1906. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVII - -THREE ANCIENT FAUBOURGS - - -ARRONDISSEMENT X. (ENTREPÔT) - -The chief thoroughfares of historic interest in this arrondissement are -the two ancient streets which stretch through its whole length: Rue du -Faubourg St-Denis and Rue du Faubourg St-Martin, and the odd-number side -of Rue du Faubourg du Temple. - -Rue du Faubourg St-Denis, the ancient road to the abbey St-Denis, known -in earlier days in part as Faubourg St-Lazare, then as Faubourg-de-Gloire, -has still many characteristic old-time buildings. The Passage du -Bois-de-Boulogne was the starting-place for the St-Denis coaches. At -No. 14 we find an interesting old court; over Nos. 21-44 and at 33 of -the little Rue d'Enghein old signs; No. 48 was the _Fiacre_ office in -the time of the Directoire, then the famous commercial firm Laffitte -and Caillard. Where we see the Cour des Petites-Écuries, the courtesan -Ninon de Lenclos had a country house. Félix Faure, Président of the -French Republic from 1895 to 1899, was born at No. 65 in 1841. The old -house No. 71 formed part of the convent des Filles Dieu. The houses -Nos. 99 to 105 were dependencies of St-Lazare, now the Paris Prison for -Women, which we come to at No. 107, originally a leper-house, founded -in the thirteenth century by the hospitaliers de St-Lazare. It was an -extensive foundation, possessing the right of administering justice and -had its own prison and gallows. The Lazarists united with the priests -of the Mission organized by St-Vincent-de-Paul, and in their day the -area covered by the cow-houses, the stables, the various buildings -sheltering or storing whatever was needed for the missioners, stretched -from the Faubourg St-Denis to the Rues de Paradis, de Dunkerque and du -Faubourg Poissonnière. At one time, when leprosy had ceased to be rife -in Paris, the hospital was used as a prison for erring sons of good -family. In 1793 it became one of the numerous revolutionary prisons; -André Chenier, Marie Louise de Montmorency-Laval, the last abbess of -Montmartre, were among the _suspects_ shut up there; and the Rue du -Faubourg St-Denis was renamed Rue Franciade. St-Lazare was specially -obnoxious to Revolutionists, for there the Kings of France had been wont -to make a brief stay on each State entry into the city, and there, on -their last journey out of it, they had halted in their coffin, on the -way to St-Denis. The remains of an ancient crypt were discovered in 1898 -below the pavement. - -Rue de l'Échiquier was opened in 1772, cut through convent lands. -Stretching behind No. 43, till far into the nineteenth century, was the -graveyard of the parish Notre-Dame-de-Bonne-Nouvelle. No. 48 was the -well-known dancing-hall, Pavillon de l'Échiquier, before and under the -Directoire. Rue du Paradis, in the seventeenth century Rue St-Lazare, is -noted for its pottery shops. At No. 58 Corot, the great landscape -painter who lived hard by, had his studio. The capitulation of Paris in -1814 was signed at No. 51, the abode of the duc de Raguse. Leading out -of Rue de Chabrol at No. 7 we find the old-world Passage de la -Ferme-St-Lazare and a courtyard, relics of the Lazarists farm. Rue -d'Hauteville, so called from the title of a Prévôt des Marchands, comte -d'Hauteville, was known in earlier times as Rue la Michodière, his -family name. In the court at No. 58 we come upon a _hôtel_ which was the -abode of Bourrienne, Napoléon's secretary; its rooms are an interesting -example of the style of the period. The pillared pavilion at No. 6 -_bis_, Passage Violet, dates only from 1840. - -Rue de Strasbourg, where the courtyard of the Gare de l'Est now -stretches, was the site in olden days of one of the great Paris fairs, -the Foire St-Laurent, held annually, lasting two months, a privilege of -the Lazarist monks. It was at this fair that the first café-concerts -were opened. The Comédie-Italienne, too, first played there. Rue de la -Fidélité, on the eastern side of the Faubourg St-Denis, records the name -given to the church St-Laurent in Revolution days; it lies across the -site of the couvent des Filles-de-la-Charité founded by -St-Vincent-de-Paul and Louise de Marillac, of which we find some traces -at No. 9. - -The northern end of Rue du Faubourg St-Martin was long known as Rue du -Faubourg St-Laurent; zealously stamping out all names recording saints, -the Revolutionists called this long thoroughfare Faubourg du Nord. We -find ancient houses, vestiges of past ages, at every step, and the -modern structures seen at intervals are on sites of historic interest. -The baker's shop at No. 44, "A l'Industrie," claims to have existed from -the year 1679. No. 59 is the site of the first Old Catholic church, -founded in 1831 by abbé Chatel. The Mairie at No. 76 covers the site of -an ancient barracks, and of a bridge which once spanned the brook -Ménilmontant. An ancient arch was found beneath the soil in 1896. Rue -des Marais, which opens at No. 86, dates from the seventeenth century. -Here till 1860 stood the dwelling of the famous public headsman Sanson -and of his descendants, _painted red_! At No. 119 we see the _chevet_ of -the church St-Laurent, the only ancient part of the church as we know -it. In the little Rue Sibour, opening at No. 121, recording the name of -the archbishop of Paris who died in 1857, we find an ancient house, now -a bathing establishment. No. 160 covers land once the graveyard of les -Récollets. The short Rue Chaudron records the name of a fountain once -there. The bulky fountains higher up are modern (1849), built by public -subscription. - -Rue du Château d'Eau was formed of two old streets: Rue Neuve -St-Nicolas-St-Martin and Rue Neuve St-Jean, joined in 1851 and named -after a fountain formerly in the centre of the what is now Place de la -République. At No. 39 we see the house said to be the smallest in the -city--its breadth one mètre. In the walls of the tobacconist's shop at -No. 55, "la Carotte Percée," we see holes made by the bullets of the -Communards in 1871. At No. 6 of the modern Rue Pierre-Bullet, now a gimp -factory, we find a house of remarkable interest, beautifully decorated -by its builder and owner, the artist Gonthière, who had invented the -process of dead-gilding. Ruin fell on the unhappy artist. His house was -seized in 1781 and he died in great poverty in 1813. - -Crossing the whole northern length of the arrondissement is the busy -commercial Rue Lafayette, its one point of interest for us the church -St-Vincent-de-Paul, built in the form of a Roman basilica between the -years 1824-44, on the site of a Lazariste structure known as the -Belvédère. Within we see fine statuary; and glorious frescoes, the work -of Flandrin, cover the walls on every side. None of the streets in the -vicinity of the church show points of historic interest. - -Rue Louis-Blanc, existing in its upper part in the eighteenth century -under another name, prolonged in the nineteenth, has one tragically -historic spot, that where it meets Rue Grange-aux-Belles. On that spot -from the year 1230, or thereabouts, to 1761, on land owned by comte -Fulcon or Faulcon, stood the famous gibet de Montfaucon. It was of -prodigious size, a great square frame with pillars and iron-chains, -sixteen _pendus_ could hang there at one time. The most noted criminals, -real or supposed, many bearing the noblest names of France, were hung -there, left to swing for days in public view--the _noblesse_ from the -Court and the _peuple_ from the sordid streets around crowding together -to see the sight. The ghastly remains fell into a pit beneath the -_gibet_ and so found burial. Later a more orderly place of interment was -arranged on that hill-top. The church of St-Georges now stands on the -site. - -Rue de la Grange-aux-Belles, so well known nowadays as the seat at No. -33 of the C.G.T.--the Conféderation du Travail, where all Labour -questions are discussed, and where in these days of great strikes, the -Paris Opera on strike gave gala performances, was originally Rue de la -Grange-aux-Pelles, a _pelle_ or _pellée_ being a standard measure of -wood. The finance minister Clavière, Roland's associate, lived here and -the authorities borrowed from him the green wooden cart which bore Louis -XVI to the scaffold. The painter Abel de Payol lived at No. 13 (1822). A -Protestant cemetery once stretched across the land in the centre of the -street down to Rue des Écluses St-Martin. There, in 1905, were found the -remains of the famous _corsaire_ Paul Jones, transported in solemn -state to America shortly afterwards. Turning into Rue Bichat we come to -the Hôpital St-Louis, founded by Henri IV. The King had been one of many -sufferers from an epidemic which had raged in Paris in the year 1606. On -his recovery the _bon Roi_ commanded the building of a hospital to be -called by the name of the saint-king, Louis IX, who had died of the -plague some three hundred years before. The quaint old edifice with -red-tiled roofs, old-world windows, fine archways surrounding a court -bright with flowers and shaded by venerable trees, carries us back in -mind to the age of the _bon Roi_ to whom the hospital was due. No. 21 -was the hospital farm. In Rue Alibert, erewhile an _impasse_, we see one -or two ancient houses, at the corner a pavilion of the time of Henri IV, -the property of the hospital. Rue St-Maur runs on into the 11th -arrondissement, a street formed in the nineteenth century by three -seventeenth-century roads, one of which was Rue Maur or des Morts. We -notice old houses and ancient vestiges here and there. - -Rue du Faubourg du Temple marks the boundary between arrondissement X -and XI, an ancient thoroughfare climbing to the heights of Belleville -with many old houses and courts, mostly squalid, and some curious old -signs. On the site of No. 18 Astley's circus was set up in 1780. - -The Rue de la Fontaine au Roi (seventeenth century), in 1792 Rue -Fontaine-Nationale, shows us at No. 13 a house with _porcelaine_ -decorations set up here in 1773. Beneath the pavement of Rue -Pierre-Levée a druidical stone was unearthed in 1782. Rue de Malte -refers by its name to the Knights Templar of Malta, across whose land it -was cut. We see an ancient _cabaret_ at No. 57. Rue Darboy records the -name of the archbishop of Paris, shot by the Communards in 1871; Rue -Deguerry that of the vicar of the Madeleine who shared his fate. The -church of St-Joseph is quite modern, 1860, despite its blackened walls. -Avenue Parmentier running up into the 10th arrondissement is entirely -modern, recording the name of the man who made the potato known to -France. - -Rue des Trois-Bornes shows us several old-time houses and at No. 39 a -characteristic old court. We find some characteristic vestiges also in -Rue d'Angoulême. In Rue St-Ambroise we see the handsome modern church -built on the site of the ancient church des Annociades. The monastery of -the Annociades was sold in lots, and became in part by turns a barracks, -a military hospital, a hospital for incurables, and was razed to the -ground in 1864. At Musée Carnavalet we may see bas-reliefs taken from -the fountain once on the space before the church. Rue Popincourt, which -gives its name to the arrondissement, records the existence in past days -of a sire Jean de Popincourt whose manor-house was here, and a -sixteenth-century village, which became later part of Faubourg -St-Antoine. Rue du Chemin-Vert dates from 1650, but has few interesting -features. Parmentier died at No. 68 in 1813. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVIII - -IN THE PARIS "EAST END" - - -We are now in the vicinity of the largest and most important of the -Paris cemeteries--Père Lachaise. But it lies in the 20th arrondissement. -The streets of this 10th arrondissement leading east approach its -boundary walls--its gates. Rue de la Roquette comes to it from the -vicinity of the Bastille. La Roquette was a country house built in the -sixteenth century, a favourite resort of the princes of the Valois line. -Then, towards the end of the seventeenth century, the house was given -over to the nuns Hospitalières of Place-Royale. The convent, suppressed -at the Revolution, became State property and in 1837 was used as the -prison for criminals condemned to death. The guillotine was set up on -the five stones we see at the entrance to Rue Croix-Faubin. The -prisoners called the spot l'Abbaye des Cinq Pierres. It was there that -Monseigneur Darboy and abbé Deguerry were put to death in 1871. On the -day following fifty-two prisoners, chiefly monks and Paris Guards, were -led from that prison to the heights of Belleville and shot in Rue Haxo. -Read _à ce propos_ Coppée's striking drama _Le Pater_. La Roquette is -now a prison for youthful offenders, a sort of House of Correction. - -Lower down the street we find here and there an ancient house or an old -sign. The fountain at No. 70 is modern (1846). The curious old Cour du -Cantal at No. 22 is inhabited mostly by Auvergnats. Rue de Charonne, -another street stretching through the whole length of the -arrondissement, in olden days the Charonne road, starts from the Rue du -Faubourg St-Antoine, where at No. 1 we see a fountain dating from 1710. -Along its whole length we find vestiges of bygone times. It is a -district of ironmongers and workers in iron and workman's tools. A -district, too, of popular dancing saloons. At No. 51 we see l'hôtel de -Mortagne, built in 1711, where Vaucanson first exhibited his collection -of mechanical instruments. Bequeathed to the State, that collection was -the nucleus of the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers: Arts and Crafts -Institution (_see_ p. 64). Here the great mechanic died in 1782. No. 97, -once a Benedictine convent, was subsequently a private mansion, then a -factory, then in part a Protestant chapel. The École Maternelle at No. -99 was in past days a priory of "Bon Secours" (seventeenth century). No. -98 is on the site of a convent razed in 1906. There are remains of -another convent at Nos. 100, 102. No. 161 was the famous "Maison de -Santé," owned by Robespierre's friend Dr. Belhomme, to which he added -the adjoining _hôtel_ of the marquis de Chabanais. There, during the -Terror, he received prisoners as "paying guests." His prices were -enormous and on a rising scale ... the guests who could not pay at the -required rate were turned adrift on the road to the guillotine. These -walls sheltered the duchesse d'Orléans, the mother of Louis-Philippe, -protected by her faithful friend known as comte de Folmon, in reality -the deputé Rouzet, and many other notable persons of those troubled -years. On the left side of the door we see the figures 1726, relic of an -ancient system of numbering. The Flemish church de la Sainte Famille at -181 is modern (1862). - -Crossing Rue de Charonne in its earlier course, we come upon the -sixteenth-century Rue Basfroi, a corruption of _beffroi_, referring to -the belfry of the ancient church Ste-Marguerite in Rue St-Bernard. -Ste-Marguerite, founded in 1624 as a convent chapel, rebuilt almost -entirely in 1712, enlarged later, is interesting as the burial-place of -the Dauphin, or his substitute, in 1745, and as possessing a much-prized -relic, the body of St. Ovide, in whose honour the great annual fair was -held on Place Vendôme. A tiny cross up against the church wall marks the -grave where the son of Louis XVI was supposed to have been laid, but -where on exhumation some years ago the bones of an older boy were found. -We see some other ancient tombs up against the walls of what remains of -that old churchyard, and on the wall of the apse of the church two very -remarkable bas-reliefs, the work of an old-time abbé, M. Goy, a clever -sculptor, to whom are due also many of the statues in the park at -Versailles. Within the church we see several striking statues and a -remarkable "Chapelle des Morts," its walls entirely frescoed in -_grisaille_ but in great need of restoration. From the end of Rue -Chancy, where at No. 22 we see an old carved wood balcony, we get an -interesting view of this historic old church. - -Rue de Montreuil, leading to the village of the name, shows us many old -houses, one at No. 52 with statuettes and in the courtyard an ancient -well, and at No. 31, remains of the Folie Titon, within its walls a fine -staircase and ceiling, the latter damaged of late owing to a fire. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIX - -ON TRAGIC GROUND - - -Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine forms the boundary between the -arrondissements XI and XII. From end to end it shows us historic -vestiges. It has played from earliest times an all-important part in -French history, leading, when without the city walls, to Paris and the -Bastille from the fortress of Vincennes and lands beyond, while from the -time of its incorporation with Paris, popular political demonstrations -unfailingly had their _mise en scène_ in the Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine. -In the seventeenth century it was a country road in its upper part, the -Chaussée St-Antoine, and led to the fine Abbaye St-Antoine-des-Champs; -the lower part was the "Chemin de Vincennes." Along this road, between -Picpus and the Bastille, the Frondeurs played their war-games. Turenne's -army fired from the heights of Charonne, while the Queen-Mother, her -son, Louis XIII, and Mazarin watched from Père-la-Chaise. At No. 8 lived -the regicide Pépin, Fieschis' accomplice. The sign, the "Pascal Lamb," -at No. 18 dates from the eighteenth century. We see ancient signs all -along the street. The Square Trousseau at No. 118 is on the site of the -first "Hospice des Enfants Trouvés," built in 1674 on abbey land. In -1792 it became the "Hôpital des Enfants de la Patrie." The head of -princesse de Lamballe was buried in the chapel graveyard there. What is -supposed to be her skull was dug up here in 1904. In 1839 the hospital -was made an _annexe_ of the hôtel-Dieu, in 1880 it was Hôpital -Trousseau, then in the first years of this twentieth century razed to -the ground. At No. 184 the hospital St-Antoine retains some vestiges of -the royal abbey that stood there in long-gone days. Founded in 1198, it -was like all the big abbeys of the age a small town in itself, -surrounded by high fortified walls. At the Revolution it was -sequestrated, the church demolished. Till the early years of the -nineteenth century, one of the most popular of Paris fairs was held on -the site of the old abbey, la Foire aux pains d'épices, which had its -origin in an Easter week market held within the abbey precincts. The -house No. 186 is on the site of the little chapel St-Pierre, razed in -1797, where of old kings of France lay in state after their death. Two -daughters of Charles V were buried there. The fountain and butcher's -shop opposite the hospital date from the time of Louis XV, built by the -nuns of the abbey and called la Petite Halle. The nuns alone had the -right to sell meat to the population of the district in those old days. -Almost every house and courtyard and passage along the whole course of -this ancient thoroughfare dates, as we see, from days long past. In the -courts at Nos. 245 and 253 we find old wells. - -So we reach Place de la Nation, of yore Place du Trône, styled in -Revolution days Place du Trône Renversé, and the guillotine set up there -"_en permanence_": there 1340 persons fell beneath its knife, 54 in one -tragic day. The two pavilions on the eastern side of the _place_ were -the custom-houses of pre-Revolution days. The monument in the centre is -modern (1899). Of the streets and avenues leading from the _place_, that -of supreme interest is the old Rue Picpus, a curious name explained by -some etymologists as a corruption of Pique-Pusse, and referring to a -sixteenth-century monk of the neighbourhood who succeeded in curing a -number of people of an epidemic which studded their arms with spots like -flea-bites and who was called henceforth "le Père Pique-Pusse." In -previous days the upper part of the road--it was a road then, not yet a -street--had been known as Chemin de la Croix-Rouge. Nos. 4 and 6 are the -remains of an eighteenth-century pavilion, a _maison de santé_--house of -detention--where in 1786 St. Just was shut up for petty thefts committed -in his own family. No. 10, a present-day _maison de santé_, is on the -site of a hunting-lodge of Henri IV. At No. 35 we see the Oratoire de -Picpus, where is the statuette of Notre-Dame, de la Paix, once on the -door of the Capucine convent, Rue St-Honoré; and here, behind the -convent garden, we find the cimetière Picpus and the railed pit where -the bodies of the 1340 persons beheaded on the Place du Trône Renversé -were cast in 1793, André Chenier among the number. Their burial-place -was unknown until some years later, when a poor woman, the daughter of a -servant of the duc de Brissac, who, stealthily watching from afar, had -seen her father and her brother fall on the scaffold, pointed it out. -The site was bought, walled in, an iron cross set up over it. Soon -adjoining land was bought and the relatives of many of those who lay in -the pit were brought to be in death near to the members of their family -cut off from them in life by the Revolutionist axe. We see their tombs -in the carefully kept cemetery to which, from time to time, descendants -of the different families come to be laid in their last long sleep. In -the corner closest up against the walls surrounding the pit we see the -Stars and Stripes of the United States, the "star-spangled banner" -keeping guard over the grave of La Fayette. The nuns of the convent have -charge of this pathetically interesting cemetery. At No. 42 we see more -convent walls stretching to Rue de Reuilly, now enclosing a carriage -factory. At No. 61 the doors of yet another, put later to various -secular uses. No. 76 is the Jewish hospital, founded by Rothschild in -1852. No. 73 is the Hospice des Vieillards, worked by the Petites -Soeurs des Pauvres. On the wall at No. 88 we come upon an edict of -Louis XV with the date 1727. - -Running parallel with Rue Picpus is Rue de Reuilly, in long-gone days a -country road leading to the Château at Romiliacum, the summer habitation -of the early Merovingian kings. We see an ancient house at No. 12 and -No. 11 was the historic _brasserie_ owned by Santerre, commander-in-chief -of the Paris Garde Nationale, its walls supposed to date from 1620. -Santerre bought it in 1772. After the storming of the Bastille, two -prisoners found within its walls, both mad, one aged, the other a noted -criminal, were sheltered there: there the keys and chains of the broken -fortress were deposited. The barracks at No. 20 are on the site of ruins -of the old Merovingian castle. The church, modern, of St-Eloi at No. 36 -has no historic interest save that of its name, and no architectural -beauty. - -Rue de Charenton is another ancient street. It runs through the whole of -the arrondissement from Place de la Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes. -From 1800-15 it went by the name Rue de Marengo, for through a gate on -its course, at the barrier of the village of Charenton and along its -line, Napoléon re-entered Paris after his Italian campaigns. In its -upper part it was known in olden days as Vallée de Fécamp. Through the -house at No. 2, with the sign "A la Tour d'Argent," Monseigneur Affre -got on to the barricades in 1848, to be shot down by the mob a few -moments later. No. 10 dates from the sixteenth century. The inn at No. -12 is ancient. At No. 26 we see the chapel of the Blind Hospital, the -"Quinze-Vingts," formerly the parish church of the district. The -Quinze-Vingts was founded by St. Louis for three hundred -_gentilshommes_, i.e. men of gentle birth, on their return from the -crusades; their quarters were till 1780 on land owned by the monks of -the Cloître St-Honoré. Then this fine old _hôtel_ and grounds, built in -1699 for the Mousquetaires Noirs, were bought for them. In the chapel -crypt the tombstone of the first archbishop of Paris, Mgr de Gondi, was -found a few years ago, and bits of broken sixteenth-century sculpture of -excellent workmanship. The little Rue Moreau, which opens at No. 40, was -known in the seventeenth century as Rue des Filles Anglaises, for -English nuns had a convent where now we see the Passage du Chêne-Vert. -We find characteristic old houses in Rue d'Aligre and an interesting old -_place_ of the same name, in Revolutionary days a hay and straw market. -The short streets and passages of this neighbourhood date, with scarce -an exception, from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Rue de la -Brèche-aux-loups recalls the age when, in wintry weather, hungry wolves -came within the sight of the city. The statuette of Ste-Marguerite and -the inscription of No. 277 date from 1745. Passage de la Grande Pinte at -No. 295 records the days when drinking booths were a distinctive feature -of the district. We see vestiges of an ancient cloister at No. 306, and -at No. 312 an old farmyard. - - - - -CHAPTER XL - -LES GOBELINS - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XIII. (GOBELINS) - -The brothers Gobelin, Jehan and Philibert, famous dyers of the day, -established their great factory on the banks of the Bièvre about the -year 1443. Jehan had a fine private mansion in the vicinity of his -dye-works known as Le Cygne. At a little distance, on higher ground, was -another _hôtel_ known as la Folie Gobelin. The rich scarlet dye the -brothers turned out was greatly prized; their business prospered, grew -into a huge concern. But in the first year of the seventeenth century a -Flemish firm of upholsterers came to Paris and established themselves on -the banks of the tributary of the Seine, entirely replacing the -Gobelins' works. This in its turn yielded to another firm, but the name -remained unchanged. A few years later the firm and all the buildings -connected therewith were taken over by the State, and in 1667, by the -initiative of the minister Colbert, were organized as the royal factory -"des meubles de la Couronne." On the ancient walls behind the modern -façade we see two inscriptions referring to the founders of the -world-famed factory. This hinder part of the vast building is of special -interest to the lover of old-world vestiges. The central structure, two -wings and the ancient chapel of the original building, still stand, and -around on every side we see quaint old houses in tortuous streets, -courtyards of past centuries, where twentieth-century work goes on -apace, picturesque corners densely inhabited by a busy population. For -this is also the great tanning district of the city. Curious old-world -sights meet us as we wind in and out among these streets and passages -which have stood unchanged for several hundred years. The artistic work -of the great factory was from the first given into the hands of men of -noted ability, beginning in 1667 with Charles le Brun; and from the -first it was regarded as an institution of special interest and -importance. Visitors of mark, royal and other, lay and ecclesiastical, -were taken to see it. The Pope, when in Paris in 1805, did not fail to -visit "les Gobelins." In 1826 the great Paris soap-works were removed -from Chaillot and set up here in connection with the dye-works. The fine -old building was set fire to by the Communards in 1871--much of it burnt -to the ground, many priceless pieces of tapestry destroyed. At No. 17 -Rue des Gobelins, in its earlier days Rue de la Bièvre, crossed by the -stream so carefully hidden beneath its surface now, we see the old -_castel_ de la Reine Blanche. It dates from the sixteenth century, on -the site of a more ancient _castel_, where tradition says the "_bals des -ardents_" were given, notably that of the year 1392 when the accident -took place which turned King Charles VI into a madman. But the "Reine -Blanche," for whom it was first built, was probably not the mother of -St. Louis, but the widow of Philippe de Valois, who died in 1398. In the -sixteenth century relatives of the brothers Gobelin lived there. Then it -was the head office of the great factory. Revolutionists met there in -1790 to organize the attack of June 20th. In Napoléon's time it was a -brewery, now it is a tannery. - -[Illustration: CASTEL DE LA REINE BLANCHE] - -Rue Croulebarbe, once on the banks of the Bièvre, has an old-world, -village-like aspect. The buildings bordering the broad Avenue des -Gobelins are devoid of interest, but beneath several of them important -Roman remains have been found, and besides the old streets running into -the avenue in the immediate vicinity of the Gobelins Factory, we find at -intervals other old streets and passages with many interesting vestiges; -at No. 37, the Cour des Rames. The city gate St-Marcel stood in past -days across the avenue where the house No. 45 now stands. In Rue Le Brun -we see the remains of the _hôtel_ where, in the early years of the -eighteenth century, dwelt Jean Julienne, the master of the Gobelins. Rue -du Banquier shows many curious old-time houses. - -In Rue de la Glacière on the western side of the arrondissement, so -named in long-gone days from an ice-house furnished from the Bièvre, and -in the short streets leading out of it, we find old houses here and -there. Rue de la Tannerie was until quite modern times Rue des Anglaises -from the couvent des Filles Anglaises, founded at Cambrai, established -here in 1664--the chief duty of the nuns being to offer prayers for the -conversion of England to Romanism! Disturbed at the Revolution, they -returned to their own land and the convent became a prison under the -Terror. At No. 28 of this old street we see vestiges of the chapel -cloisters. - -Covering a large area in the east of this arrondissement is the hospice -known as La Salpétrière. In long-past days a powder magazine stood on -the site: traces of that old arsenal may still be seen in the hospital -wash-house. The foundation of the hospice dates from Louis XIII, as a -house for the reception of beggars. The present structure, the work of -the architect Vau, was built in the seventeenth century, destined for -the destitute and the mad. The fine chapel was built a few years later. -At the close of the century a woman's prison was added, whither went -many of the Convulsionists of St. Médard (_see_ p. 150). Mme Lamotte -concerned in the _affaire du collier_ was shut up here. And in a scene -of the well-known operette Manon Lescaut is shown within its walls. In -September, 1792, the Revolutionary mob broke into the prison, slew the -criminals, opened the doors to the light women shut up there. We see -before us the "Cour des Massacres." Then in 1883 la Salpétrière was -organized as the "Hospice de la Vieillesse-Femmes." There are five -thousand beds. In 1908 the new hospital de la Pitié was built in its -grounds. - -[Illustration: LA SALPÉTRIÈRE] - - - - -CHAPTER XLI - -THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF PORT-ROYAL - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XIV. (OBSERVATOIRE) - -The boundary-line between arrondissements XIII and XIV is Rue de la -Santé, the name of the great Paris prison which stands there. It brings -us to the vicinity of the Paris Observatory and of the Hôpital Cochin. -The prison is a modern structure on a site known as la Charbonnerie, -because of coal-mines once there. The Observatory, built over ancient -quarries, was founded by Louis XIV's minister Colbert, in 1667. A spiral -staircase of six hundred steps leads down to the cellars that erewhile -were mines. It was enlarged in 1730 and again in 1810, and the cupolas -were added at a later date. A stretch of Rue du Faubourg St-Jacques -borders its eastern side, and there on the opposite side we see -l'Hôpital Cochin, founded in 1780 by the then vicar of -St-Jacques-du-Haut-Pas, whose name it bears--enlarged in recent years. -At No. 34 of Rue du Faubourg St-Jacques we turn into the -seventeenth-century Rue Cassini, so named in 1790 to memorize the -seventeenth-century organizer of the Observatory. Here Balzac lived in -1829 in a house no longer standing. The great painter J. P. Laurens has -an _hôtel_ here. We find a Louis XVI monument in a court at No. 10. -Subterranean passages, made and used in a past age by smugglers, have -been discovered beneath the pavement of this old street. - -Rue Denfert-Rochereau has its first numbers in arrondissement V. This -was the "Via Infera," the Lower Road of the Romans. The name _Enfer_, -given later, is said to refer, not to the place of torment, but to the -hellish noise persistently made in a _hôtel_ there built by a son of -Hugues Capet, the hôtel Vauvert, hence the French expression, "envoyer -les gens au diable vert"--_vert_ shortened from _Vauvert_, i.e. send -them off--far away--to the devil! _Enfer_ became _d'Enfert_, to which in -1878 was added the name of the general who defended Belfort in 1870: not -exactly a happy combination! Many persons of note have dwelt in this old -street. No. 25 (arrondissement V) is an ancient Carmelite convent, -built, tradition says, on the site of a pagan temple: an oratory-chapel -dedicated to St. Michael covered part of the site in early Christian -days and a public cemetery. An ancient crypt still exists. It was in the -convent here that Louise de la Vallière came to work till her death, in -1710. That first convent and church were razed in 1797. The Carmelites -built a smaller one on the ancient grounds in 1802, and rebuilt their -chapel in 1899. It did not serve them long. They were banished from -France in 1901. The chapel, crypt and some vestiges of the ancient -convent are before us here. Modern streets--Rue Val de Grâce opened in -1881, Rue Nicole in 1864--run where the rest of the vast convent walls -once rose. No. 57 is on the site of an ancient Roman burial-ground of -which important traces were found in 1896. No. 68, ancient convent of -the Visitation. No. 72 built in 1650 as an Oratorian convent, a -maternity hospital under the Empire, now a children's hospice. No. 71, -couvent du Bon Pasteur--House of Mercy--founded in the time of Louis -XVI, bought by the Paris Municipality in 1891, its chapel burnt by the -Communards in 1871, rebuilt by the authorities of the Charity, worked -now by Sisters of St. Thomas de Villeneuve. Within its walls we see -interesting old-time features and beneath are the walls of reservoirs -dating from the days when water was brought here from the heights of -Rungis. No. 75, ancient Eudiste convent and chapel; Châteaubriand once -dwelt at No. 88 and with his wife founded at No. 92 the Infirmerie -Marie-Thérèse, named after the duchesse d'Angoulême, daughter of Louis -XVI, a home for poverty-stricken gentlepeople, transformed subsequently -into an asylum for aged priests. Mme de Châteaubriand lies buried there -beneath the high altar of the chapel. - -Avenue d'Orléans, in olden days Route Nationale de Paris à Orléans, -dating from the eighteenth century, and smaller streets connected with -it, show us many old houses, while in the Villa Adrienne, opening at No. -17, we find a number of modern houses--pavilions--each bearing the name -of a celebrity of past time. Rue de la Voie-Verte was so named from the -market-gardens erewhile stretching here. Rue de la Tombe-Issoire runs -across the site of an ancient burial-ground where was an immense tomb, -said to have been made for the body of a giant: Isore or Isïre, who, -according to the legend, attacked Paris at the head of a body of -Sarazins in the time of Charlemagne. Here and there along this street, -as in the short streets leading out of it, we come upon interesting -vestiges of the past, notably in Rue Hallé, opening at No. 42. The -pretty Parc Souris is quite modern. We find old houses in Avenue du -Chatillon, an eighteenth-century thoroughfare. Rue des Plantes leads us -to Place de Montrouge, in the thirteenth century the centre of a village -so named either after an old-time squire, lord of the manor, Guis de -Rouge, or because the soil is of red sandstone. The squire, maybe, -gained his surname from the soil on which he built his château, while -the village took its name from the squire. Rue Didot, once known as Rue -des Terriers-aux-Lapins, memorizes the great printing-house founded in -1713. Rue de Vanves, leading to what was in olden days the village of -the name, crosses Rue du Château at the point where in the eighteenth -century the duc de Maine had a hunting-lodge. In Avenue du Maine we see -ancient houses at intervals. Rue du Moulin-Vert recalls the existence of -one of the numerous windmills on the land around the city in former -days. Rue de la Gaité (eighteenth century) has ever been true to its -name or the name true to the locality--one of dancing saloons and other -popular amusements. The Cinema des Mille Colonnes was in pre-cinema days -the "Bal des Mille Colonnes," opened in 1833. Passing on up Avenue du -Maine we come to arrondissement XV. - - - - -CHAPTER XLII - -IN THE SOUTH-WEST - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XV. (VAUGIRARD) - -Rue Vaugirard, originally Val Girard, which we enter here, on its course -from arrondissement VI (_see_ p. 164), is the longest street in Paris, a -union of several streets under one name, extending on beyond the city -bounds. At No. 115 we find an ancient house recently restored by a man -of artistic mind; at No. 144, ancient buildings connected with the old -hospital l'Enfant-Jésus, its façade giving on Rue de Sèvres. At -intervals all along the street, and in the short streets opening out of -it, we come upon old-time houses, none, however, of special interest. In -this section of its course Rue de la Procession, opening at No. 247, -dates from the close of the fourteenth century, a reminiscence of the -days when ecclesiastical processions passed along its line to the -church. Rue Cambronne, named after the veteran of Waterloo, dates from -the first Empire and shows us at Nos. 98, 104, 117, houses of the time -when it was Rue de l'École--i.e. l'École Militaire. - -The modern church St-Lambert in Rue Gerbert replaces the ancient church -of Vaugirard in Rue Dombasle, once Rue des Vignes, the centre of a -vine-growing district, where till recent years stood the old orphanage -of St-Vincent-de-Paul. Rue de la Croix-Nivert, traced in the early -years of the eighteenth century, records the existence of one of the -crosses to be found in old days at different points within and without -the bounds of the city. In Rue du Hameau, important Roman remains were -found a few years ago. In Rue Lecourbe, known in the seventeenth century -as le Grand Chemin de Bretagne, in the nineteenth century for some years -as Rue de Sèvres, like the old street it starts from at Square Pasteur, -prehistoric remains were found in 1903. Rue Blomet, the old Meudon road, -was in past days the habitation of gardeners, several old gardeners' -cottages still stand there. The district known as Grenelle, a village -beyond the Paris bounds till 1860, has few vestiges of interest. The -first stone of its church, St-Jean Baptiste, was laid by the duchesse -d'Angoulême, daughter of Louis XVI. The long modern Rue de la Convention -is known beyond its immediate vicinity chiefly for the Hôpital Boucicaut -built by the founder and late owner of the Bon Marché. - -Avenue Suffren, bounding this arrondissement on its even-number side, -dates from 1770. Rue Desaix was once le Chemin de l'Orme de Grenelle. -Rue de la Fédération memorizes the Fête de la Fédération held on the -Champ de Mars in 1790. The oldest street of the district is Rue Dupleix, -a road in the fifteenth century and known in the sixteenth century as -Sentier de la Justice or Chemin du Gibet, a name which explains itself. -Then it became Rue Neuve. The Château de Grenelle stood in old days on -the site of the barracks on Place Dupleix, used in the Revolution as a -powder factory; there in 1794 a terrific explosion took place, killing -twelve hundred persons. Where the Grande Roue turns, on the ground now -bright with flower-beds and grassy lawns, duels were fought erewhile. -This is the quarter of new streets, brand-new avenues. - -Crossing the Seine at this point we find ourselves in arrondissement -XVI, for to its area south of the Étoile and surrounding avenues, were -added in 1860 the suburban villages of Passy and Auteuil. - - - - -CHAPTER XLIII - -IN NEWER PARIS - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XVI. (PASSY) - -We have left far behind us now Old Paris, the Paris of the Kings of -France, of the upheaval of Revolution days. The 16th arrondissement, -save in the remotest corners of Passy and Auteuil, suburban villages -still in some respects, is the arrondissement of the "Nineteenth Century -and After." Round about the Étoile the Napoléonic stamp is very evident. -It is the district of the French Empire, First and Second. The Arc de -Triomphe was Napoléon's conception. The broad thoroughfare stretching as -Avenue des Champs-Elysées to Place de la Concorde, as Avenue de la -Grande Armée to the boundary of Neuilly, was planned by Napoléon I, as -were also the other eleven surrounding avenues. The erections of his day -and following years were well designed, well built, solid, systematical, -mathematically correct, excellent work as constructions--spacious, airy, -hygienic, but devoid of architectural poetry. The buildings of the -Second Empire were a little less well designed, less well built and yet -more symmetrical, with a very marked utilitarian stamp and a marked lack -of artistic inspiration. Those of a later date, with the exception of -some few edifices on ancient models, are, alas! for the most part, -utilitarian only--supremely utilitarian. Paris dwelling-houses of -to-day are, save for a fine _hôtel_ here and there, "_maisons de -rapport_," where _rapport_ is plainly their all-prevailing _raison -d'être_. The new houses are one like the other, so like as to render new -streets devoid of landmarks: "_Où sont les jours d'Antan_," when each -street, each house had its distinctive feature? Only in the Paris of -generations past. - -Of Napoléon's avenues seven, if we include the odd-number side of Avenue -des Champs-Élysées and of the Grande Armée, are in this arrondissement. -The beautiful Avenue du Bois-de-Boulogne is due to Napoléon III, opened -in 1854, as Avenue de l'Impératrice. Handsome mansions line it on both -sides. One spot remained as it had been before the erection of all these -fine _hôtels_ until recent years--a rude cottage-dwelling stood there, -owned by a coal merchant who refused to sell the territory at any price. -Francs by the million were offered for the site--in vain. But it went at -last. In 1909 a private mansion worthy of its neighbour edifices was -built on the site. - -Avenue Victor-Hugo began in 1826 as Avenue Charles X. From the short Rue -du Dôme, on high ground opening out of it, we see in the distance the -_dôme_ of the Invalides. To No. 117 the first _crêche_ opened in or near -Paris, at Chaillot (1844), was removed some years ago. Gambetta lived -for several years and died at No. 57, in another adjoining street, Rue -St-Didier. At No. 124 of the Avenue we see a bust of Victor-Hugo, who -died in 1885 in the house this one replaces. Place Victor-Hugo began in -1830 as Rond-Point de Charles X. The figure of the poet set up in 1902 -is by Barrias. The church St-Honoré d'Eylau dates from 1852. It was -pillaged by the Fédérés in 1871. Lamartine passed the last year of his -life in a simple chalet near the square named after him; his statue -there dates from 1886. - -General Boulanger lived at No. 3 Rue Yvon de Villarceau, opening out of -Rue Copernic. Rue Dosne is along the site of the extensive grounds left -by Thiers. At No. 46 Rond-Point Bugeaud we see the foundation Thiers, a -handsome _hôtel_ bequeathed by the widow of the statesman as an -institution for the benefit of young students of special aptitude in -science, philosophy, history. - -Avenue d'Eylau, planned to be Place du Prince Impérial, possessed till -recently, in a courtyard at No. 11, three bells supposed to be those of -the ancient Bastille clock. - -Avenue Malakoff, began in 1826 as Avenue St-Denis. At No. 66 we see the -chapel of ease of St-Honoré d'Eylau, of original style and known as the -Cité Paroissiale St-Honoré. - -Avenue Kléber began in 1804 as Avenue du Roi de Rome. Beneath the -pavement at No. 79 there is a circular flight of steps built in 1786, to -go down to the Passy quarries. - -Rue Galilée, opening out of it at No. 55, began as Rue des Chemin de -Versailles. Rue Belloy was formed in 1886 on the site of the ancient -Chaillot reservoirs. - -Avenue d'Iéna lies along the line of the ancient Rue des Batailles de -Chaillot, where, in 1593, without the city bounds, Henri IV and -Gabrielle d'Estrées had a house. Rue Auguste-Vaquerie is the former Rue -des Bassins. The Anglican church there dedicated to St-George dates from -1888 and is, like the French churches, always open--a friendly English -church--with beautiful decorations and furnishings. The short Rue -Keppler dates from 1772 and was at one time Rue Ste-Geneviève. Rue -Georges-Bizet lies along the line of an ancient Ruelle des Tourniquets, -a name reminiscent of country lanes and stiles; in its lower part it was -of yore Rue des Blanchisseuses, where clean linen hung out freely to -dry. The Greek church there, with its beautiful _Iconostase_ and -paintings by Charles Lemaire, is modern (1895). Rue de Lubeck began as a -tortuous seventeenth-century road, crossing the grounds of the ancient -convent of the Visitation. - -The statue of Washington in the centre of Place d'Iéna, the scene of so -many momentous gatherings, was given by the women of the United States -"_en mémoire de l'amitié et de l'aide fraternelle donnée par la France à -leurs frères pendant la lutte pour l'indépendance_." The Musée Guinet on -the site of the hippodrome of earlier years, an oriental museum, was -opened in 1888. Rue Boissière, in the eighteenth century in part Rue de -la Croix-Boissière, reminds us of the wooden crosses to which in olden -days the branches of box which replace palm were fixed on Palm Sunday. -Along Rue de Longchamp, then a country lane, seventeenth and -eighteenth-century Parisians passed in pilgrimage to Longchamp Abbey, -while at an old farm on the Rond-Point, swept away of late years, -ramblers of note, Boileau and La Fontaine among the number, stopped to -drink milk fresh and pure. The name of the Bouquet de Longchamp recalls -the days when green trees clustered there. Rue Lauriston, a thoroughfare -in the eighteenth century, was long known as Chemin du Bel-air. - -Rue de Chaillot, which leads us to Avenue Marceau, was the High Street -of the village known in the eleventh century by the Roman name -Colloelum. It was Crown property, and Louis XI gave it to Philippe de -Commines. In 1659 the district became a Paris faubourg and in 1787 was -included within the city bounds. There on the high land now the site of -the Trocadéro palace and gardens, the Château de Chaillot, its name -changed later to Grammont, was built by Catherine de' Medici. Henriette, -widow of Charles I of England, back in her own land of France, made it -into a convent (1651). Its first Superior was Mlle de Lafayette; its -walls sheltered many women of note and rank, Louise de la Vallière is -said to have fled thither twice, to be twice regained by the King. The -chapel was on the site of the pond in the Trocadéro gardens. There the -hearts of the Catholic Stuarts were taken for preservation. Suppressed -at the Revolution, the convent was subsequently razed to the ground by -Napoléon, who planned the erection of a palace there for his son the -"_Roi de Rome_." The old street has still several old houses easily -recognized: Nos. 5, 9, 19, etc. The church, on the site of an -eleventh-century chapel, dates from the seventeenth and eighteenth -centuries, with a nineteenth-century chapel and presbytery. - -Avenue du Trocadéro, since 4th July, 1918, Avenue Wilson, was -inaugurated as Avenue de l'Empereur, (Napoléon III). The palace, now a -museum and concert-hall, was built on the crest of ancient quarries, for -the Exhibition of 1878, and the Place du Roi de Rome, in previous days -Place Ste-Marie, became Place du Trocadéro. The Musée Galliera, a museum -of industrial art, was built in 1895 by the duchess whose maiden name -Brignole is recorded in the short street opened across her property in -1879. She had planned filling it with her magnificent collection of -pictures, but changed the destination of her legacy when France laicised -her schools. - -Avenue Henri-Martin began, like Avenue du Trocadéro, as Avenue de -l'Empereur (1858). The old _tour_ we see at No. 86 Rue de le Tour is -said to have formed part of the Manor of Philippe-le-Bel. It was once a -prison, then served as a windmill tower, and the street, erewhile Chemin -des Moines, Monk's Road, became Rue du Moulin de la Tour. Few other -vestiges of the past remain along its course. We see old houses at Nos. -1, 66, 68. Rue Vineuse, crossing it, recalls the days when convent -vineyards stretched there. It is, like Rue Franklin, once Rue Neuve des -Minimes, of eighteenth-century date. Franklin's statue was set up there -in 1906, for his centenary. We see an old-time house at No. 1 Rue -Franklin, and at No. 8 the home of Clemenceau, the capable Prime -Minister of France of the late war. The cemetery above the reservoir was -opened in 1803. - - - - -CHAPTER XLIV - -TOWARDS THE WESTERN BOUNDARY - - -Rue de Passy, the ancient Grande Rue, the village High Street before the -district was included within the Paris boundary-line, dates from -fifteenth-century days, when it was a fief, owned by Jeanne de Paillard, -known as La Dame de Passy; it reverted to the Crown under Louis XI, and -was bestowed on successive nobles. At the _carrefour_--the cross -roads--where the tramcars now stop for Rue de la Tour, stood the -seignorial gallows. The seignorial habitation, a château with extensive -grounds, was built in 1678; in 1826 the whole domain was sold and cut -up. The district was known far and wide in past days on account of its -mineral springs. Here and there along the street we see an ancient house -still standing. The narrow _impasse_ at No. 24 is ancient. The -nineteenth-century poet Gustave Nadaud died at No. 63 in 1893. No. 84, -now razed, showed, until a few years ago, an interesting Louis XV façade -in the courtyard, once a dependency of the Château de la Muette. Rue de -la Pompe, named from the pump which supplied the Château de la Muette -with water, a country road in the eighteenth century, shows few vestiges -of the past. No. 53 is part of an old Carmelite convent. - -Chaussée de la Muette is a nineteenth-century prolongation of Rue de -Passy. The château from which it takes its name was originally a -hunting-lodge, stags and birds were carefully enclosed here during the -time of moulting (_la mue_, hence the name) in the days of Charles IX. -Margaret de Valois, the notorious Reine Margot, was its first regular -inhabitant. She gave the mansion to King Louis XIII when he came of age -in 1615. It was rebuilt by the Regent in 1716 and became the favourite -abode of his daughter the duchesse de Berri. There she died three years -later. It was the home of Louis XV during his minority. Mme de Pompadour -lived there and had the doors beautifully painted. It was again rebuilt -in 1764, Marie-Antoinette and the Dauphin, soon to be Louis XVI, spent -the first months of their married life there. It was from the Park de la -Muette that the first balloon was sent up in 1783. The property was cut -up in 1791, and in 1820 bought by Sebastien Érard of pianoforte fame, -and once more rebuilt. Thus it came by the spindle-side to the comte de -Franqueville; a big slice has been cut off in recent years for the -making of a new street named after its present owner.[G] - -[Illustration: RUE DES EAUX, PASSY] - -Avenue du Ranelagh records the existence, in the latter years of the -eighteenth century, of the fashionable dancing hall and grounds opened -here in imitation of the Rotonde built in London by Lord Ranelagh. -Marie-Antoinette was among the great ladies who danced there. The hall -was closed at the Revolution but was reopened and again the vogue under -the Directoire and until 1830, when it became a public dancing saloon. -It was demolished in 1858, the lawns were left to form a promenade. The -statue of La Fontaine dates from 1891. Rue du Ranelagh is wholly modern. -Rue Raynouard crossing it dates from the seventeenth century, when it -was the Grande Rue, later the Haute Rue of the quarter, to become later -still Rue Basse. Florian, the charming fable-writer, was wont to stay -at No. 75. We see a fine old _hôtel_ at No. 69, and an old-world street, -Rue Guillou, close by. Rue des Vignes opening at No. 72 reminds us of -the vineyards once on these sunny slopes. No. 66 was the site of the -hôtel Valentinois, where Franklin lived for several years and where he -put up the first lightning conductor in France. No. 51 is ancient, and -No. 47 is known as la Maison de Balzac. In a pavilion in the garden -sloping to the Seine he lived from 1842-48, lived and wrote, wrote -incessantly there as elsewhere and always. There, carefully preserved, -may be seen the chair he sat in, the table he wrote at, the pen he used, -and a hundred other personal relics. Lectures about the great novelist -and subjects connected with his life and work are given there from time -to time. We see ancient houses on to the end of this quaint street. -Marie-Antoinette stayed from time to time at No. 42 to be within easy -reach of her confessor, the Vicar of Passy; so tradition says. The -second story of this house sheltered Béranger, 1833-35. The man of -letters who gave his name to the street died at No. 36, in 1836. At No. -21, the warrior, la Tour d'Auvergne, passed the years 1776-1800. Jean -Jacques Rousseau stayed with friends here and wrote his "Devin du -Village." Mineral waters, such as made the springs of Passy renowned in -bygone days, still bubble up in this fine park. The modern erection, No. -19, is on the site of the ancient hôtel Lauzun, where the duc de -Saint-Simon used to stay, and where the first steps were taken for the -marriage of Napoléon III. At No. 11 we turn for an instant into the -quaint old Rue des Eaux, strikingly reminiscent of a past age, when the -tonifying waters of Passy were drunk in a pavilion on the site of No. -20. Rue de l'Annonciation began in the early years of the eighteenth -century as Rue des Moulins. Here we see the church Notre-Dame-de-Grâce, -built as a chapel of ease for Auteuil by the Lord of Passy in 1660, to -become a parish church, a few years later. It was restored and enlarged -at subsequent dates. The ancient Passy cemetery lay across Rue Lekain. -Rue de Boulainvilliers stretches through what were once the grounds of -the Passy Château. Rue des Bauches, opening out of it, still narrow and -quaint, was in olden days a lane through the _Bauches_, a word -signifying a marshy tract or used to designate hut-like dwellings on -waste, perhaps marshy land. Passy had within its bounds the Hautes -Bauches, and the Basses Bauches. We of the 16th arrondissement know the -street nowadays more especially as that of the tax-paying office. - -Rue de l'Assomption marking the boundary between Passy and Auteuil began -as Rue des Tombereaux. The convent of the Assomption is a modern -building (1858), in an ancient park. The old château there, so secluded -on its tree-surrounded site as to go by the name of l'Invisible, rebuilt -in 1782, was for a time the home of Talleyrand, later of the actress -Rachel, of Thiers, the statesman, of the comtesse de Montijo, mother of -the Empress Eugénie; the nuns came here from Rue de Chaillot in 1855. -No. 88 is an old convent-chapel used as chapel of ease for Passy. - -In Avenue de Mozart we see modern structures only, but old-time streets -open out of it at intervals. It was in a house in Rue Bois-le-Vent, near -the château de la Muette, that André Chenier was arrested in 1794. -Behind No. 13, of Rue Davioud we find traces of an old farmyard and a -well. Rue de la Cure refers by its name to the iron springs once there. -Rue de Ribéra is the ancient Rue de la Croix. Rue de la Source, was in -old days Sente des Vignes. Benedictine nuns from St-Maur settled there -in 1899 to be banished or laicized a few years later. Rue Raffet dates -from the eighteenth century as Rue de la Grande Fontaine. Rue du Docteur -Blanche, named to memorize the organizer of the well-known private -asylum in the _hôtel_ once the dwelling of princesse de Lamballe, is the -ancient Fontis Road. Rue Poussin, and the short streets connected with -it, all date from the middle of the nineteenth century, opened by the -railway company of the Ceinture line in the vicinity of their station at -Auteuil. Rue des Perchamps, once Pares Campi, crosses the site of the -ancient cemetery of the district. In Rue la Fontaine, in olden days -known for its fountain of pure water, we find here and there an -eighteenth-century building among the garden-surrounded houses. In Rue -Théophile Gautier, a tennis-court and tall houses let in flats cover the -ground where till 1908 stood the Château de Choiseul-Praslin, in its -latter years, till 1904, a convent of Dominican nuns. Rue de Remusat -runs along the course of the ancient Grande Rue; Rue Félicien-David was -the first street flooded in the great inundation of 1910.[H] The street -became a river three mètres deep. Rue Wilhem, of so commonplace an -aspect to-day, dates from the eighteenth century, when it was Sentier -des Arches, then Rue Ste-Geneviève. Place d'Auteuil, until 1867 Place -d'Aguesseau, is on the site of the churchyard of past days. The monument -we see there was set up to the memory of D'Aguesseau and his wife by -command of Louis XV, in 1753. This is the highest point in the district, -_altus locus_--the origin, maybe, of the name Auteuil, unless the name -refers rather to the Druidical altars erected on a clearing here in the -days when the forest of Rouvray, spreading over the whole of what is now -the Bois de Boulogne, sheltered the venerable pagan priests. A church -was first built on the spot in the early years of the fourteenth -century. At the Revolution the church was profaned, the tombs violated. -The present edifice dates from the latter years of the nineteenth -century; its tower, in the form of a pontifical tiara, is an exact copy -of the ancient tower. Rue d'Auteuil was in fifteenth-century days the -single village street, la Grande Rue; the house at No. 2 is said to be -on the site of Molière's country dwelling, but there is no authentic -record of the exact site of the house at Auteuil, near the church, where -the great dramatist so often went for rest and country air. Auteuil was -the retreat for quiet and recuperation of the most noted men of letters -and of art of the eighteenth century: Racine, Boileau, etc. No. 59 is on -the site of the house, burnt to the ground in 1871, wherein Victor Noir -was shot dead by Prince Pierre Napoléon. Where at the upper end of the -street we see now houses of commonplace aspect and small shops, stood -until the middle of the nineteenth century the Château du Coq, inhabited -by Louis XV in his childhood, and surrounded later by a horticulturist's -garden. - -Avenue de Versailles, in the south of the arrondissement, shows us along -its line, and in the short streets leading out of it, many old-time -vestiges. The Auteuil cemetery in Rue Chardon-Lagache dates from 1800. -The house of retreat, Ste-Perine, transferred here from Chaillot in -1850, is on land once part of the estate of the abbots of the old -monastery Ste-Geneviève, away on the high ground across the Seine at the -other end of the city. Rue Molitor has at No. 18 a group of modern -houses named Villa Boileau, property once owned by the poet. Boileau's -Auteuil house was on the site of No. 26, in the quaint picturesque old -Rue Boileau, where his gardener's cottage still stands. Rue de Musset, -opening out of the street at No. 67, reminds us that the friend of -George Sand dwelt here with his parents in the early years of the -nineteenth century. - - - - -CHAPTER XLV - -LES TERNES - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XVII. (BATIGNOLLES-MONCEAU) - -A number of small dwellings lying without the city bounds to the north, -in the commune of Clichy, were known in the fifteenth century as "les -Batignolles," i.e. the little buildings. Separated from Clichy in the -nineteenth century, the district of les Batignolles was joined to -Monceau. New streets were built, old erections swept away: Avenue de -Clichy, in part the Grande Rue of the district, was first planted with -trees in 1705. At intervals along its course, and in the short streets -connected with it, we find eighteenth-century houses, none of special -interest. At No. 3, the Taverne de Paris is decorated with paintings by -modern artists. A famous restaurant, dating from 1793, stood till 1906 -at No. 7. At No. 52 of Rue Balagny, opening out of the Avenue, we see -the sign "Aux travailleurs," and on the façade, words to the effect that -the house was built during the war years 1870-71. At No. 154 of the -Avenue, we find the quiet leafy Cité des Fleurs. Rue des Dames was a -road leading to the abbey "des dames de Montmartre" in the seventeenth -century. Rue de Lévis was in long-gone ages a road leading to what was -then the village of Monceaux, its name derived perhaps from the Latin -_Muxcellum_, a mossy place, more probably from _Monticellum_, a mound, -or from Mons calvas, the bald or bare mount. The Château de Monceaux was -on the site of Place Lévis. The official palace of the Papal Nuncio was -in Rue Legendre, No. 11 bis. The modern church St-Charles we see here, -built in 1907, was previously a Barnabite chapel. Rue Léon-Cosnard dates -from the seventeenth century, when it was Rue du Bac d'Asnières. In the -old Rue des Moines we find one of the few French protestant churches of -Paris. - -Avenue de Villiers, leading of old to the village of Villiers, now -incorporated with Levallois-Perret, was, from its formation in 1858 to -the year 1873, Avenue de Neuilly. Puvis de Chavannes died at No. 89, in -1898. Avenue de Wagram in its course from the Arc de Triomphe to Place -des Ternes dates from the Revolution year 1789, known then as Avenue de -l'Étoile. Avenue MacMahon began as Avenue du Prince Jerôme. Avenue des -Ternes is the ancient route de St-Germain, subsequently known as the old -Reuilly Road--Reuilly is half-way to St-Germain--later as Rue de la -Montagne du Bon-Air, to become on the eve of its début as an Avenue, -route des Ternes, the chief road of the _terra externa_, the territory -beyond the city bounds on that side. The village Les Ternes was taken -within the Paris boundary line in 1860. The barrière du Roule was -surrounded in the past by a circular road, now Place des Ternes. We find -important vestiges of the fine Château des Ternes in the neighbourhood -of Rue Bayen, Rue Guersant and Rue Demours. The church St-Ferdinand -built in 1844-47 was named in memory of the duc d'Orléans, killed near -the spot. - - - - -CHAPTER XLVI - -ON THE _BUTTE_ - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XVIII. (BUTTE MONTMARTRE) - -We are on supremely interesting ground here, ground at once sacred, -historic and characteristic of the mundane life of the city above which -it stands. At or near its summit, St-Denis and his two companions were -put to death in the early days of Christianity. On the hill-side most -memorable happenings have been lived through. In the old streets and -houses up and down its slopes poets and artists have ever dwelt, worked -and played, and in its theatres, its music-halls, cabarets, etc., -Parisians of all classes have sought amusement--good and evil. In past -days Paris depended on Montmartre for its daily bread, for the flour -that made it was ground by the innumerable windmills of the _Butte_. The -sails of many of those windmills worked far into the reign of Napoléon -III, who did not admire their aspect and even had a scheme for levelling -the _Butte_! So it is said. Reaching the arrondissement by the Rue des -Martyrs, which begins, as we know, in arrondissement IX, we come upon -two buildings side by side of very opposite uses: the Comédie Mondaine, -formerly the famous Brasserie des Martyrs and Divan Japonais, and the -Asile Nationale de la Providence, an institution founded in 1804 as a -retreat for aged and fallen gentlepeople. - -The _hôtel_ at No. 79 is on the site of the Château d'hiver, where the -Revolutionists of Montmartre had their club. No. 88 was the -dancing-saloon known as the Bossu. No. 76 that of the Marronniers. Rue -Antoinette shows us points of interest of another nature. At No. 9, in -the couvent des Dames Auxiliatrices du Purgatoire, we see the very spot -on which there is reason to believe St. Denis and his companions -suffered martyrdom. An ancient crypt is there, unearthed in the year -1611, to which we are led down rough steps, beneath a chapel built on -the site in 1887; we see a rude altar and above it words in Latin to the -effect that St-Denis had invoked the name of the Holy Trinity on that -spot. The crypt is no doubt a vestige of the chapel built on the site by -Ste-Geneviève. It was in this chapel, not as is sometimes asserted -higher up the _Butte_, that Ignatius Loyola and his six companions, on -August 15, 1574, made the solemn vow which resulted in the institution -of the Order of the Jesuits. The chapel was under the jurisdiction of -the "Dames de Montmartre," and after the great fire at the abbey the -nuns sought refuge in the old chapel here, made it a priory. Several -persons of note were buried there. At the Revolution it was knocked to -pieces and remained a ruin until rebuilt by the abbé Rebours in 1887. - -Leaving this interesting spot and passing through Rue Tardieu, we reach -Place St-Pierre, formerly known as Place Piemontési, and go on through -Rue Foyatier to the ancient Rue St-Eleuthère, once in part of its length -Rue du Pressoire, a name recalling the abbey winepress on the site of -the reservoir we see there now. Thus we come to Rue Mont-Cenis, the -ancient Chaussée St-Denis, and in part of its course, Rue de la -Procession, referring to the religious processions of those bygone days. -And here we see before us the most ancient of Paris churches, St-Pierre -de Montmartre. It dates from the first years of the ninth century, built -on the site of an earlier chapel or several successive chapels, the -first one erected over the ruins of a pagan temple. Four black marble -pillars from the ruins of that temple were used for the Christian -church: we see them there to-day, two at the west door, two in the -chancel. We see there, too, ancient tombstones, one that of Adelaide de -Savoie, foundress of the abbey, for the Choir des Dames was the abbey -chapel, and there the abbesses were buried. The old church was -threatened with destruction after the desecration of 1871, when it was -used as a munition _dépôt_. Happily it has been saved and in recent -years restored. The façade is eighteenth-century work, quite -uninteresting as we see, but the view of the east end from without, the -apse, the old tower and the simply severe Gothic interior, are -strikingly characteristic. The cross we see in front of the church was -brought here from an old cemetery near. The garden adjoining, with the -Calvaire set up there in 1833, was in ancient days the nun's graveyard. -The cemetery on the northern side dates from the time of the Merovingian -kings. - -[Illustration: ST-PIERRE DE MONTMARTRE] - -Leaving the most ancient of Paris churches we come to the most -remarkable among the modern churches of Paris and of France--l'Église du -Voeu National, commonly known as the Sacré-Coeur. It is an -impressively historic structure for it was built after the disasters of -1870-71, by "La France humiliée et repentante," a votive church erected -by national subscription. To make its foundations sure on the summit of -the _Butte_, chosen as being the site of the martyrdom of St-Denis, -patron saint of the city, the hill was probed to its base, almost to the -level of the Seine, and a gigantic foundation of hard rock-like stone -built upwards. The huge edifice rests upon a vast crypt, with chapels -and passages throughout its entire extent. It has taken more than forty -years to build; the north tower was finished just before the outbreak of -the war, now advancing to a triumphal end, for which grand services of -thanksgiving will ere long be held in this church built after defeat. -The interior is still uncompleted. Looking at it from close at hand, the -immense Byzantine structure with its numerous domes, seems to us -æsthetically somewhat unsatisfying, but from a distance dominating -Paris, seen as it often is through a feathery haze, or with the sun -shining on it, the vast white edifice makes an imposing effect. Its -great bell, la Savoyarde, given by the diocese of Chambéry, weighs more -than 26,000 kilogrammes, and its sound reaches many miles. - -[Illustration: VIEUX MONTMARTRE, RUE ST-VINCENT - -(Maison de Henri IV)] - -[Illustration: RUE MONT-CENIS - -(Chapelle de la Trinité)] - -Rue Chevalier de la Barre, bordering the church on the north, was -formerly in part of its length Rue des Rosiers, in part Rue de la -Fontenelle, referring to a spring in the vicinity. In a wall of the Abri -St-Joseph at No. 26, we see the bullet-holes made by the Communards who -shot there two French Generals in March, 1871. Going up Rue Mont-Cenis -we see interesting old houses at every step. No. 22 was the home of the -musician Berlioz and his English wife Constance Smithson. Crossing this -long street from east to west at this point, the winding hill-side Rue -St-Vincent with its ancient walls, its trees, its grassy roadway, -makes us feel very far removed from the city lying in the plain below. -At No. 40 is the little cemetery St-Vincent. Returning to Rue Mont-Cenis -we find at No. 53 a girls' college amid vestiges of the ancient, famous -_porcelaine_ factory, the factory of "Monsieur" under the patronage of -the comte de Provence, brother of Louis XV. The tower we see there was -that of the windmill which ground the silex. At No. 61 we come upon a -farm dating from 1782, la Vacherie de la Tourelle. At No. 67 an old inn -once the Chapelle de la Trinité (sixteenth century). - -[Illustration: VIEUX MONTMARTRE - -(Cabaret du Lapin-Agile)] - -Returning to the vicinity of St-Pierre and the Sacré-Coeur, we find -numerous short streets, generally narrow and tortuous, which retain -their old-world aspect. Rue St-Eleuthère is one of the most ancient. Rue -St-Rustique formerly Rue des Dames, Rue Ravignan once Rue du -Vieux-Chemin, Rue Cortot, Rue Norvins, Rue des Saules, are all -seventeenth-century thoroughfares. Rue Norvins was Rue des Moulins in -bygone days. No. 23 was a far-famed _folie_, then, in 1820, the -celebrated Dr. Blanche founded there his first asylum for the insane, -many of whom he cured. At No. 9 we come to an old house and alley, the -_impasse_ Trainée, a name recalling the days when Montmartre was, in -wintry weather, a wolf-haunted district: a _trainée_ is a wolf-trap. The -inn at No. 6 was in the past a resort of singers in search of an -engagement: the impecunious could bring food to eat there. On the Place -du Tertre two trees of liberty were planted in 1848, felled in 1871. No. -3 is the site of the first Mairie of Montmartre. Passing along Rue du -Calvaire we come to the rustic Place du Calvaire, erewhile Place -Ste-Marie. - -A very chief interest at Montmartre is the view. It is best obtained -from the Belvedere built by baron de Vaux at No. 39 Rue Gabrielle, and -from the Moulin de la Galette reached through Rue des Trois-Frères. Rue -de la Mire was in olden days Petite Rue des Moulins. The steps we see -are said to have been put there for the passage of cattle. - -The cellars of the house at No. 7, Rue la Vieuville are vestiges of the -ancient abbey. Place des Abbesses was erewhile Rue de l'Abbaye. On the -ancient _place_ we find the most modern and most modern-style church in -Paris, St-Jean l'Evangeliste, built of concrete. The Passage des -Abbesses leads by an old flight of steps to Rue des Trois-Frères, a -modern street. Rue Lepic, for some years after its formation Rue de -l'Empereur (Napoléon III), was renamed in memory of the General who -defended the district in 1814. Numerous old streets are connected with -it. Avenue des Tilleuls recalls the days when lime-trees flourished -there, the lime-trees memorized in Alphonse Karr's novel _Sous les -Tilleuls_. In the Square where it ends is an eighteenth-century house -where François Coppée dwelt as a boy. The severely wall-enclosed _hôtel_ -at No. 72 was the home of the artist Ziem. Close here is the entrance to -the Moulin de la Galette. At the top of the house No. 100 there is an -astronomical observatory set up under Napoléon III. The Rue Girardon, a -rural pathway in the seventeenth century, was known later as Rue des -Brouillards, the point no doubt from which the city lying below was to -be seen fog-enveloped, as is not unfrequently the case. The old house -No. 13 goes by the name le Château des Brouillards. In the _impasse_ at -No. 5 stood in ancient days the Fontaine St-Denis. Its waters were of -great repute, assuring, it was said, in women who drank them, the virtue -of conjugal fidelity. And here through the short street Rue des -Deux-Frères we reach the historic Moulin de la Galette. It dates from -the twelfth century and has seen tragic days. Its owners defended it -with frantic courage in 1814, whereupon one of them, taken by the -attacking Cosaques, was roped to the whirling wheel. It was again -assailed in 1871. The property was owned by the same family from the -year 1640, a private property, a farm, a country inn, where dancing -often went on as a mere private pastime till, in 1833, its landlord, an -expert in the art of dancing, decided to turn his talent to pecuniary -account and opened there the famous public dancing-hall. Rue -Caulaincourt, erewhile quaint and rural, has lost of late years almost -all its old-time characteristics. Rue Lamarck has become quite modern in -its aspect. Rue Marcadet was known in the seventeenth century as Rue -des Boeufs--Ox Street. At No. 71 we find a fine seventeenth-century -_hôtel_, now a girls' school, hôtel Labat, and another good old house, -also a girls' school, at No. 75; at No. 91 yet another. The modern -structures at No. 101 are on the site of the ancient manor-house of -Clignancourt. The turret at No. 103 is probably the relic of an old -windmill. Rue de la Fontaine du But records the name of a drinking -fountain, demolished some forty years ago, said to have been set up -there by the Romans. Tradition has it the word _but_ was once _buc_, and -referred to the Roman rite of the sacrifice of a buck to Mercury. -According to another legend, "_but_," i.e. aim, referred to the English -archers who when in France made that spot their practising-ground. Rue -du Ruisseau owes its name to the stream of water which flowed through it -on the demolition of the ancient fountain. The seventeenth-century Rue -de Maistre, bordering the northern cemetery, is the ancient Chemin des -Dames. Rue Eugène-Carrière, opening out of it, was till quite recently -Rue des Grandes Carrières, memorizing the big quarries whence from time -immemorial has been obtained the white stone, so marked a feature of -Paris buildings, and the world-famed plaster of Paris. - -[Illustration: MOULIN DE LA GALETTE] - -Rue Damrémont is modern; in the little Rue des Cloys opening out of it -at No. 102 we see vestiges of a curious old _cité_ of wooden dwellings. -Rue Neuve de la Chardonnière recalls the days when it was a -thistle-grown road. Rue du Poteau reminds us of the gallows of the -St-Ouen road. The Avenue de Clichy and the Avenue St-Ouen which form the -boundary of the arrondissement, both date back as important roads to the -seventeenth century. Along them we find here and there traces of ancient -buildings, none of special interest. To the east of the boulevards -Ornano and Barbes, which run through the arrondissement from north to -south, we find numerous ancient streets, mostly short. The street of -chief importance is Rue des Poissonniers, its lower end merged in -boulevard Barbes. We see several unimportant old houses along its -course. The impasse du Cimetière and the schools we see there are on -the site of an old graveyard. In Rue Affre, bearing the name of the -archbishop of Paris slain on the barricades in 1848 (_see_ p. 250), we -find the modern church St-Bernard, of pure fifteenth-century Gothic as -to style, but far inferior in workmanship to the Gothic structures of -ages past. Rue de la Chapelle, known in Napoléon's time as Faubourg de -la Gloire, began as the Calais Road, then became the Grande Rue de la -Chapelle. La Chapelle is a spot of remarkable historic memories. It -began as the Village des Roses--in days when roses, wild and cultivated, -grew in abundance in what is now a Paris slum. Then the population, -remembering that Ste-Geneviève had stopped to rest and pray in the -church on her way to St-Denis, called their village La Chapelle-Ste-Geneviève. -Later it was named la Chapelle-St-Denis. To the church at la Chapelle -went Jeanne d'Arc in the fateful year 1425. We find ancient houses all -along the course of this old thoroughfare, and at No. 96 the church -dedicated to St-Denis, built by Maurice de Sully, the chancel of that -thirteenth-century structure still intact, after going through two -disastrous fires and suffering damage in times of war. It has been -enlarged in recent years. The statue of Jeanne d'Arc there dates from -the reign of Louis XVI. - -A popular fair, la Foire de Lendit, instituted by Dagobert, was held -during centuries at the extreme end of the ancient thoroughfare. No. -122, built, tradition tells us, by Henri IV and given to his minister -Sully, became in the seventeenth century the Cabaret de la Rose Blanche. -At No. 1 Rue Boucry we see an ancient chapel now used as a public hall. - - - - -CHAPTER XLVII - -AMONG THE COALYARDS AND THE MEAT-MARKETS - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XIX. (BUTTES-CHAUMONT) - -In this essentially workaday district we see many houses old and quaint, -but without architectural beauty or special historic interest. Round the -park des Buttes-Chaumont, a large expanse of greenswards and shady -alleys, dull, squalid streets branch out amid coal-yards and factories. -Beneath the park are the ancient quarries which erewhile gave so much -white stone and plaster of Paris to the city builders. The name Chaumont -is derived, perhaps, from _mons calvus_, _mont chauve_, i.e. bald -mountain. In Rue de Flandres, formerly Grande Rue de la Villette, we see -a Jewish cemetery. Nos. 61 to 65 are on the site where the well-known -institution Ste-Perine, come hither from Compiègne, was first -established in Paris as a convent community in the seventeenth century, -removed to Chaillot in 1742, then to Auteuil, its present site. We find -ancient houses, some old signs, along the course of this old street, and -at No. 152 an interesting door, pavilion and bas-relief. - -Rue de Belleville marks the bounds of the arrondissement. Along its -course and in the adjacent streets we see many vestiges of the past. Rue -des Bois shows us some fine old gardens as yet undisturbed. In Rue de -l'Orme, Elm Road, opening out of it, we find the remains of an ancient -park. Rue Pré-St-Gervais was a country road till 1837. From the top of -the steps in the picturesque Rue des Lilas we have a fine view across -the neighbouring _banlieue_. In the grounds of No. 40 we come upon three -benches formed of gravestones. Rue Compans was in the eighteenth century -and onwards Rue St-Denis. The church of St-Jean-Baptiste, quite modern, -is of excellent style and workmanship. The lower end of Rue de -Belleville leads us into arrondissement XX. - - - - -CHAPTER XLVIII - -PÈRE-LACHAISE - - -ARRONDISSEMENT XX. (MÉNILMONTANT) - -The lower end of the long Rue de Belleville, its odd-number side in -arrondissement XIX, went in olden days by the name Rue des -Courtilles--Inn Street. Inns, cabarets, popular places of amusement -stood door by door all along its course. Here, as in arrondissement XIX, -we find on every side old houses and vestiges of the past, but of no -particular interest beyond the quaintness of their aspect. Rue Pelleport -began in the eighteenth century as an avenue encircling the park of -Ménilmontant. In the grounds surrounding the reservoirs we come upon a -tomb, a modern gravestone, covering the remains of a municipal -functionary whose dying wish was to be buried on his own estate. - -Rue Haxo, crossing Rue Belleville at No. 278 and running up into -arrondissement XIX, is of tragic memory. Opening out of it at No. 85 we -see the Villa des Otages. There the Commune sat in 1871, there the fate -of the hostages was decided; there on the 26th May, 1871, fifty-two of -those unhappy prisoners were slain. The Jesuits owned the property till -its sale a few years ago. They bought and carried away the _grilles_ and -whatever else was transportable from the cells where the victims had -been shut up. - -Rue Ménilmontant, running parallel to Rue de Belleville, dates from the -seventeenth century, when it was a country road leading to the -thirteenth-century hamlet Mesnil Mantems, later Mesnil Montant. The land -there belonged in great part to the abbey St-Antoine and to the priory -of Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie; a château de Ménilmontant was built, -under Louis XIV, where in the wide-stretching grounds we see the -reservoirs. At Nos. 155 and 157 we see old pavilions surrounded by -gardens. The eighteenth-century house, No. 145, was in the nineteenth -century taken by a society calling itself the St-Simoniens--some forty -men who had decided to live together and have all things in common. They -did not remain together long. No. 119 is the school directed by the -Soeurs St-Vincent de Paul. At No. 101 we look down Rue des Cascades -which till the middle of last century was a country lane: leading out of -it is the old Rue de Savies, recording the ancient name of the -district--Savies, i.e. _montagne sauvage_--wild mountain--a name changed -later to Portronville (rather a mouthful), then to its euphonious -present name Belleville. At its summit is an ancient fountain set there -in long-past ages for the use of the monks of St-Martin of Cluny, and -for the Knights-Templar; another may be seen in the grounds of No. 17. - -On the Place de Ménilmontant we see the well-built modern church -Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix, on its northern side the old Rue and passage -Eupatoria. The quaint Rue de la Mare, a country road in the seventeenth -century, and Rue des Couronnes have interesting old passages running -into them. - -Passing down Rue des Pyrénées, connected on either side with short -old-time streets and passages, we come to the Square Gambetta, often -called Square Père-Lachaise, and the immense Paris cemetery, the great -point of interest of the 20th arrondissement. The site was known in -long-past days as the Champ de l'Evêque--the bishop's field. It was -presently put to a very unecclesiastical use, for a rich grocer bought -the land and built thereon a _folie_, i.e. an extravagant mansion. In -the seventeenth century the Jesuits bought the property and named it -Mont-Louis. Louis XIV paid a visit to the Jesuits there and subsequently -bought the estate and gave it to his confessor, Père Lachaise. When Père -Lachaise died the Jesuits regained the property, held it till the -Revolution, when it was seized by the State and became the possession of -the Municipality. Passing along the avenues and alleys of this vast, -silent city on the hill-side, we see tombs of every possible description -and style, wonderful monuments and mortuary chapels, some very -beautiful, others ...! and a huge crematorium. Men and women of many -nations and of many varying creeds are gathered there. Seen on the eve -of All Saints' Day or the day following, when fresh flowers are on every -grave, lamps burning in almost every tombstone chapel, the relatives and -the friends of the dead crowding in reverent attitude along its paths, -the scene is singularly impressive. - -On its north-east boundary we find the tragic Mur des Fédérés, the wall -against which the insurgents were shot after the Commune in 1871. -Blood-red scarves, blood-red wreaths mark the graves there, and we see -the names of many who had no graves on that spot chalked up against that -tragic wall. - -[Illustration: LE MUR DES FÉDÉRÉS] - -On the south side of the cemetery, running eastward, we turn into the -old Rue de Bagnolet, the road leading to the village of the name. Old -houses line this street and the streets adjoining it, and half-way up -its incline on the little Place St-Blaise we see the ancient church -St-Germain de Charonne, dating from the eleventh century. An inscription -on a wall within tells us Germain, the busy bishop of Auxerre, first met -Geneviève of Nanterre here, and tradition says the future patron saint -of Paris took her vows on the spot. There was an oratory on the site in -the fifth century or little later. The eleventh-century edifice was -rebuilt in the fifteenth century, but we still see some of the blackened -walls of the earlier structure. The _chevet_, i.e. the chancel-end, was -destroyed in the wars of the Fronde. We see, distinctly traced, the -space it occupied bounded by the Mur des Soeurs, against which in -long-gone days were no doubt stalls for the nuns of a neighbouring -convent. Some ancient tombstones, too, are there, once within the -chancel. Mounting the broad steps we enter the old church to find -curious old pillars, ancient inscriptions, coats of arms, and in one -chapel a little good old glass. - -Making our way to the little cemetery of Charonne behind, we find in its -centre a grass-grown space once the _fosse commune_ of the pits into -which the _guillotinés_ were flung in Revolution days. Beyond, near the -boundary wall, we see a railed-in tomb, surmounted by the figure of a -man in Louis XVIII costume--Bègue, Robespierre's private secretary. The -Revolution over, his chief dead, the man whose hand had prepared for -signature so many tragic documents withdrew to the rural district of -Charonne, beyond the Paris bounds, led a secluded, peaceful life, -cultivated his bit of land and set about preparing for his exit from -this earth by designing his own tomb. He sat for the bronze statue we -see here, and had the iron railing made to show all the implements of -Revolutionary torture with which he was familiar, the wheel that worked -the guillotine, the _tenailles_, etc....! - -Higher up towards Bagnolet we come to a vestige of the ancient Château, -a pavilion Louis XV, forming part of the modern Hospice Debrousse. - - - - -CHAPTER XLIX - -BOULEVARDS--QUAYS--BRIDGES - - -THE BOULEVARDS - -The Paris boulevards are one of the most characteristic features of the -city. The word _boulevard_ recalls the days when Paris was fortified, -surrounded by ramparts, and the city boulevards stretch for the most -part along the lines of ancient boundary walls, boundaries then, now -lines in many instances cutting through the very heart of the Paris we -know. - -The Grands Boulevards run from the Place de la Madeleine to the Place de -la Bastille--gay and smart and modern, in the first kilometres of their -course; less smart, busier, more commercial, with more abundant vestiges -of bygone days as they stretch out beyond the boulevard des Italiens. - -The boulevard de la Madeleine follows the line of the ancient boundary -wall of Louis XIII, razed during the first years of the eighteenth -century. Its upper part on the even-number side was one side of an old -thoroughfare reaching as far as Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin, known in its -early years as Rue Basse du Rempart. The latter part stretching to Rue -Caumartin is of recent date. The old Rue Basse des Remparts was bordered -by handsome _hôtels_, the dwellings of notable persons of the day: -vestiges of several of them were until recent years still seen in -boulevard des Capucines--Nos. 16 to 22 razed when the new street Rue -Édouard VII was cut. In the reception-room of a seventeenth-century -house that stood at the corner of the boulevard and the Rue des -Capucines known as the Colonnade, Buonaparte first met Joséphine. - -Boulevard des Italiens gained its name from the Italian theatre there in -1783. This name was changed more than once in subsequent years. After -the Revolution, when the Royalists who had taken refuge beyond the -German Rhine returned to Paris and held meetings on this boulevard, it -was nicknamed "Le Petit Coblentz." No. 33 (eighteenth century) is the -Pavillon de Hanovre, forming part in past times of the hôtel d'Antin, -which had been owned in its later days by Richelieu, then was divided -into several dwellings, and in the time of the Merveilleuses one of -these sub-divisions of the fine old mansion became a dancing saloon, -_bal_ Richelieu, and the meeting-place of the Incroyables. Rue du -Helder, which we see opening at No. 36, was in those days a cul-de-sac, -i.e. a blind alley. The bank there (No. 7) was erewhile the famous -cabaret "le Lion d'Or," and at No. 2 Cavaignac was arrested when -Napoléon made his _coup d'état_. No. 22 of the boulevard was the -far-famed "Tortoni." No. 20, rebuilt in 1839, now a post office, is the -ancient hôtel Stainville, later Maison Dorée. No. 16, till a year or two -ago Café Riche, dating from 1791. No. 15, hôtel de Lévis, was once the -Jockey Club. On the site of No. 13 stood till recent years the famous -Café Anglais. At No. 11 was the club "Salon des Italiens" in the time of -Louis XVI, subsequently the restaurant Nicolle and Café du Grand Balcon, -its first story commonly known as Salon des Princes. At No. 9 Grétry -lived from 1795 till his death, which happened at Montmorency in 1813. -No. 1 Café Cardinal founded by Dangest (eighteenth century). - -Boulevard Montmartre dates from the seventeenth century, lined in olden -days on both sides by handsome private mansions; we see it now a -thoroughly commercial thoroughfare, one of the busiest in the city. A -modern journalist called its _carrefour_--the point where it meets the -Rue du Faubourg Montmartre--"_carrefour des écrasés_." From the house, -now a newspaper office, at No. 22 an underground passage ran in past -days to the Café Cardinal opposite, leading to an orangery. On the site -of No. 23 stood the gambling-house Frascati, built on the site of the -old hôtel Taillepied. The Café Véron at No. 13 dates from 1818, opened -through the gardens of the hôtel Montmorency-Luxembourg. Passage -Jouffroy at No. 10 was cut, in 1846, across the site of an ancient -building known as the Maison des Grands Artistes. The théâtre des -Variétés, at No. 7, first set up at the Palais-Royal in 1770 by "la -Montansier," was built here in 1807 on the grounds of the hôtel -Montmorency-Luxembourg. No. 1 is the site of the Café de la Porte -Montmartre, founded by Louis XV, a meeting-place of Parisians hailing -from Orléans, nicknamed Guépins. - -Boulevard Poissonnières (seventeenth century) begins where hung till -recent years an ancient sign at No. 1--"Aux limites de la Ville de -Paris"--recording the inscription once on the old wall there. Most of -the houses are those originally built along the boulevard, and many old -streets run into it on either side. At No. 9 we see Rue St-Fiacre, -dating from 1630, when it was Rue du Figuier, a street closed at each -end by gates till about 1800. The restaurant Duval at No. 10 of the -boulevard was an eighteenth-century mansion. No. 14 is known as Maison -du Pont-de-Fer. No. 19, now l'École Pratique du Commerce, was till a few -years ago the home of an old lady who, left a widow after one happy year -of married life, shut herself up in the house she owned, refused to let -any of its six large flats, and died there in utter solitude at the age -of ninety. No. 23, designed by Soufflot le Romain in 1775 as a private -mansion, became later the _dépôt_ of the famous Aubusson tapistry. - -Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, named from the church Notre-Dame de -Bonne-Nouvelle in Rue de la Lune, dates from the seventeenth century -(_see_ p. 59). No. 21 was built after the Revolution with the stones of -the old demolished church St-Paul (_see_ p. 12). No. 11, in 1793, with -some of the stones of the Bastille. The theatre, le Gymnase, which we -see at No. 38, erected in 1820 on the grounds of a mansion, a barracks -and a bit of an old graveyard, was known during some years as the -théâtre de Madame la duchesse de Berri, who had taken it under her -patronage. Its façade was rebuilt in 1887. - -The church just off the boulevard was first built in 1624 on the site of -the old chapel Ste-Barbe, and named by Anne d'Autriche, perhaps in -gratitude for the good news of the prospect of the birth of a son (Louis -XIV) after twenty-three years of childless married life, or, as has been -said, on account of a piece of good news communicated to the Queen when -passing by the spot. The edifice was rebuilt in the nineteenth century, -the tower alone remaining untouched. Within it we find an old painting -of Anne d'Autriche and Henriette of England. - -Boulevard St-Denis (eighteenth century). The fine Porte St-Denis shows -in bas-relief, the victories of Louis XIV in Germany and in Holland. It -has been restored three times since its first erection in 1673. The -Revolutions of 1830 and 1848 began around this grand old Porte. -Paving-stones were hurled from its summit. At No. 19 we see a statue of -St-Denis. - -Boulevard St-Martin (seventeenth century). Its course was marked out, -its trees planted a few years earlier than that of boulevard St-Denis. -On its handsome blackened Porte, built in 1674-75, we read the words: "A -Louis-le-Grand pour avoir pris deux fois Besançon et vaincu les Armées -allemandes, espagnoles et hollandaises." Like Porte St-Denis, it has -been three times restored. The Allies passed beneath it on entering -Paris in 1814. The first théâtre de la Porte St-Martin was built in the -short period of seventy-five days to replace, with the least delay -possible, the Opera-house near the Palais-Royal, burnt down in 1781. It -was the Opera until 1793. The structure we see was erected in 1873, -after the disastrous conflagration caused by the Communards two years -previously. We see theatres and concert-halls along the whole course of -the boulevard. The Ambigu at No. 2 dating from 1828 was founded sixty -years earlier as a marionnette show on the site of the present Folies -Dramatiques. This part of the boulevard was formerly on a steep incline, -with steps up to the théâtre Porte St-Martin. Its ground was levelled in -1850. The novelist Paul de Kock lived at No 8. No. 17 was the abode of -the great painter Meissonnier. The théâtre de la Renaissance is modern -(1872), built on the site of the famous restaurant Deffieux which had -flourished there for 133 years. It was for several years Sarah -Bernhardt's theatre. - -Boulevard du Temple, its trees first planted in the year 1668 when it -was a road stretching right across the area now known as Place de la -République, was at that particular point a centre of places of amusement -of every description--theatres, music-halls, marionnette-shows. All -were closed, razed to the ground, to make way for the grand new _place_ -laid out there in 1862. Of the old walls within which Parisians had for -long years previously found so much distraction and merriment, vestiges -remain only at Nos. 48, 46, 44, 42 of the boulevard. No. 42 is on the -site of the house where Fieschi's infernal machine was placed in 1835. -The restaurant at No. 29 is on the site of the once widely known Café du -Jardin Turc. The théâtre Dejazet records the name of the famous -_actrice_. The two short streets, Rue de Crussol and Rue du Grand -Prieuré, were cut across the grounds of the Grand Prieuré de France in -the latter years of the eighteenth century. - -Boulevard Filles-du-Calvaire, named from the ancient convent, dates only -from 1870. The streets connected with it are older. Rue des -Filles-du-Calvaire was a thoroughfare in the last years of the -seventeenth century, and at No. 13 we find traces of the ancient -convent. Rue Froissard and Rue des Commines, memorizing the two old -French chroniclers, were opened in 1804 right across the site of the -convent and its grounds. Rue St-Sébastien dates back to the early years -of the seventeenth century, and we see there many interesting old -houses. No. 19, with its Gothic vaulting, is probably the hôtel -d'Ormesson de Noyseau, a distinguished nobleman, guillotined at the -Revolution. Rue du Pont-aux-Choux, made in the sixteenth century across -market gardens, got its name from an old bridge which spanned a drain -there. - -Boulevard Beaumarchais began in 1670 as boulevard St-Antoine. No. 113, a -sixteenth-century structure, was known till 1850 as the Château. The -words we see engraved on its walls--"A la Petite Chaise"--refer to a -tragic incident. The head of the princesse de Lamballe, carried by the -Revolutionists on a pike, was plunged into a pail of water set on a low -chair placed up against this wall to clear it of the dribbling blood. -No. 99, its big doors brought here from the Temple palace, is the hôtel -de Cagliostro, the famous sorcerer. - -Rue des Arquebusiers, opening at No. 91, dates from 1720, when it was -Rue du Harlay-au-Marais. Santerre lived here for a time. No. 2 stands on -the site of the house where Beaumarchais died in 1790. - -Boulevard Henri IV is modern (1866), cut across the site of two old -convents. Rue Castex leads out of it where stood once the convent des -Filles de Ste-Marie; its chapel, now a Protestant church, is entered at -No. 5. The Caserne des Célestins was built in 1892 on the site of part -of the large and celebrated convent of the Célestins, an Order founded -in 1244 by the priest who became Pope Celestin V. The Carmelites who at -first were established here, greatly disturbed by inundations from the -Seine who overflowed her banks in those long-past ages, even as she does -to-day, quitted their quarters on this site. The Célestins who came to -Paris in 1352 and took over these abandoned dwellings were protected and -enriched by Charles V, inhabiting the Palais St-Pol close by. The Order -was suppressed in 1778, before the Revolution suppressed all Orders--for -the time; and in 1785 the convent here was taken for the first deaf and -dumb institution organized by abbé de l'Épée. The convent chapel with -its numerous royal tombs, the bodies of some royal personages, the -hearts of others, was razed in 1849. Some vestiges of the convent walls -remained standing till 1904. Where the boulevard meets the Quai des -Célestins, we see now a circular group of worn, ivy-grown stones; an -inscription tells us these old stones once formed part of the Tour de la -Liberté of the demolished Bastille. They were unearthed in making the -Paris Metropolitan Railway a few years ago. The birds make the remnant -of that old tower of liberty their own to-day and passers-by stop -regularly to feed them. - -Crossing the Seine we come to the boulevard St-Germain, beginning at -boulevard Sully in arrondissement V, stretching right through -arrondissement VI and ending at the Quai d'Orsay near the Chambre des -Députés in arrondissement VII. Though in name so historic and running -across interesting ground, the boulevard is of modern formation. It has -swept away a whole district of ancient streets. The Nos. 61 to 49 are -ancient, all that remains of Rue des Noyers erewhile there. At No. 67 -Alfred de Musset was born (1810). The théâtre de Cluny is on the site of -part of the vanished couvent des Mathurins. The firm Hachette stands -where was once a Jews' cemetery. No. 160 was the restaurant now razed -where Thackeray, when a young student at the Beaux-Arts, took his meals. -A sign-board he painted long hung there. We see some old houses of the -ancient Rue des Boucheries between Nos. 162 and 148. At No. 166 we turn -for an instant into Rue de l'Échaudé, dating from the fourteenth -century, when it was a _chemin_ along the abbey moat, a street of -ancient houses. The word _échaudé_, a confectioner's term used for a -certain kind of three-cornered cake, signifies in topographical language -a triangle formed by the junction of three streets. The pavement-stones -before Nos. 137 to 135 cover the site of the ancient abbey prison. Rue -des Ciseaux bordered in olden days the Collège des Écossais. The statue -of Diderot at No. 170 was set up on his centenary as close as could be -to the house he dwelt in, in Rue de l'Égout. The hôtel Taranne records -the name of the thirteenth-century street of which some vestiges remain -on the odd-number side of the boulevard between No. 175 and Place -St-Germain-des-Prés, where Saint-Simon lived and wrote. The little -grassy square round the house at No. 186 was originally a leper's -burial-ground, then, from 1576 to 1604, a Protestant cemetery. Looking -into the Rue St-Thomas-d'Aquin, once passage des Jacobins, we see the -church which began early in the years of the eighteenth century as a -Jacobin convent. At the Revolution it was made into a Temple of Peace! -The frescoes of the ceiling are by Lemoine. - -The modern boulevard Raspail opening at No. 103 brought about the -destruction of several ancient streets; where the boulevard St-Germain -meets Rue St-Dominique three or four fine old mansions were razed to the -ground and that old street, previously extending to Rue des -Saints-Pères, cut short here. A fine eighteenth-century _hôtel_ stood -till 1861 on the site of the Bureaux du Ministère des Travaux Publics at -No. 244. The minister's official residence at No. 246, dating from 1722, -is on the site of one still older, at one time the abode of the dowager -duchess of Orleans. That portion of the Ministère de la Guerre which we -see along this boulevard is a modern construction. We see modern -structures also at Nos. 280, 282, 284, all on the site of fine old -_hôtels_ demolished at the making of the boulevard. At some points of -boulevard Raspail, stretching from boulevard St-Germain to beyond the -cemetery Montparnasse, we come upon vestiges of the ancient streets -demolished to make way for it; here and there an old house, a fine -doorway, and at No. 112 a lusty tree, its trunk protruding through the -garden wall, said to be the tree beneath whose shade Victor Hugo sat and -pondered or maybe wrote several of his best-known works, while living in -an old house close by. - -Starting now from the Place de la République, we pass up the busy modern -boulevard Magenta without finding any point of special interest. The -Cité du Wauxhall at No. 6 was opened in 1840 on the grounds of a more -ancient Wauxhall. The big hospital Lariboisière in the adjoining Rue -Ambroise-Parée was built from 1839 to 1848, on the _clos_ St-Lazare and -named at first Hôpital Louis-Philippe. Its present name is in memory of -the countesse la Riboisière, who gave three million francs for the -hospital. The boulevards Barbes and Ornano run on from boulevard Magenta -to the district of Montmartre. They are of nineteenth-century formation -and without historic interest. No. 10, boulevard Barbes, was once the -dancing saloon "du Grand Turc." - -The bustling boulevard de Strasbourg which boulevard Magenta crosses, a -continuation of the no less bustling boulevard Sébastopol, both great -commercial thoroughfares, was formed in the middle of the nineteenth -century across the lines of many ancient streets and courts. Ancient -streets ran also where we now have the broad boulevard du Palais on -l'Ile de la Cité, crossing the spot on the erewhile Place du Palais -where of yore criminals were set out for public view and marked with a -red-hot iron. - -The buildings we see there on the odd-number side opposite the Palais de -Justice: the Tribunal du Commerce, the Préfecture de Police, the -Firemen's barracks, are all of nineteenth-century erection. So we come -to the boulevard St-Michel, the far-famed "Boule-Miche" of the Latin -Quarter, forming the boundary-line between arrondissements V and VI. As -a boulevard it is not of ancient date. It began at its northernly end in -1855 as boulevard Sébastopol, Rive Gauche. Soon it was prolonged and -renamed to memorize the ancient chapel erewhile in one of the streets it -had swept away. Place St-Michel from which it starts has to-day a modern -aspect. Almost all traces of the ancient Place du Pont St-Michel, as it -was in bygone days, have vanished. The huge fountain we see and cannot -admire, though perhaps we ought to, replaces the fountain of 1684. The -arched entrance to the narrow street Rue de l'Hirondelle, once -Irondelle, as an old inscription tells us, which began in 1179 as Rue de -l'Arondale-en-Laas, and the glimpse at a little distance of the entrance -to ancient streets on the boulevard St-Germain side, give the only -old-world touch to the _place_. The high blackened walls we see in this -Rue de l'Hirondelle are the remains of the ancient collège d'Autun -founded in 1341. At No. 20, on the site of the ancient _hôtel_ of the -bishops of Chartres, is an eighteenth-century _hôtel_. No. 38 of the -boulevard is on the site of the house belonging to the Cordeliers, whose -monastery was near by, where the royal library was kept from the days of -Louis XIII to 1666. The Lycée St-Louis, founded in 1280 as the college -d'Harcourt, covers the site of several ancient structures. A -fragment--the only one known--of the boundary wall of Henri II, is -within the college grounds, and beneath them the remains of a Roman -theatre were found in 1861, and more remains in 1908. Where the -boulevard meets Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the city wall and a gate of -Philippe-Auguste passed in olden days. And that was the site of the -ancient _place_. No. 60, the École des Mines founded in 1783, and -housed at the Mint, at that time an _hôtel_ Rue de l'Université, then -transferred to Montiers in Savoie, finally settled here in 1815 in the -hôtel Vendôme built in 1707 for the Chartreux, let in 1714 to the -duchesse de Vendôme, who died there soon afterwards. This fine old -structure still forms the central part of the Mining School. At No. 62 -we see the Geological Map offices. In the court of No. 64 we find a -house built by the Chartreux, inhabited in past days by the marquis de -Ségur, and in later times by Leconte de Lisle. The railway station Gare -de Sceaux at No. 66 covers the site of the once well-known Café Rouge. -In the old Rue Royer-Collard opening at No. 71, in the sixteenth century -Rue St-Dominique d'Enfer, we see several quaint old houses. Roman pots -were found some years ago beneath the pavement of the _impasse_. The -house at No. 91 is on ground once within the cemetery St-Jacques. César -Franck the composer lived and died at No. 95 (1891). No. 105 is the site -of the ancient Noviciat des Feuillants who went by the name "_anges -guardiens_." The famous students' dancing saloon known as bal Bullier -was at this end of the boulevard from 1848 till a few years ago. - - - - -CHAPTER L - -LES BOULEVARDS EXTÉRIEURS - - -Starting at the ancient Barrière des Ternes, for some years past Place -des Ternes, we take our way through outer boulevards forming a wide -circle. Boulevard de Courcelles, dating from 1789, runs where quaint old -thoroughfares ran of yore. Boulevard des Batignolles was the site of the -barrières de Monceau. The Collège Chaptal, which we see there, was -founded in Rue Blanche in 1844. The busy Place de Clichy is on the site -of the ancient Clichy barrier, valiantly defended by the Garde Nationale -in 1814. The huge monument in its centre is modern (1869). On the line -of the boulevard de Clichy stretched in bygone days the barriers -Blanche, Montmartre and des Martyrs, of which at first three boulevards -were formed: Clichy, Pigalle, des Martyrs united under the name of the -first in 1864. Just beyond the _place_, at No. 112, we turn into Avenue -Rachel leading to the cemetery Montmartre, formed in 1804 on the site of -the ancient graveyard of the district. Many men and women of mark lie -buried here. We see names of historic, literary or artistic celebrity on -the tombstones all around. The monument Cavaignac is the work of the -great sculptor Rude. The Moulin Rouge, a music-hall, at No. 88 is on the -site of a once famous Montmartrois dancing-hall, "la Dame Blanche." No. -77 is an ancient convent, its garden the site of a café concert. "Les -Quatrez-Arts" at No. 64 is one of the most widely known of Montmartrois -cabarets and music-halls. In the Villa des Platanes, opening at No. 58, -we find a bas-relief showing the defence made on the _place_ in 1814. -Rue Fontaine, opening at No. 57, shows us a succession of small -Montmartrois theatres and music-halls. In Rue Fromentin we still see the -sign-board of the far-famed school of painting, l'Académie Julian -formerly here. In Rue Germain-Pilon we see an ancient pavilion. No. 36 -is the Cabaret La Lune Rousse, formerly Cabaret des Arts, of a certain -renown or notoriety. The passage and the Rue de l'Élysée-des-Beaux-Arts -show us interesting sculptures and bas-reliefs. Nos. 8 and 6, of old a -dancing saloon, was the scene of a tragic incident in the year 1830: the -ground beneath it, undermined by quarries, gave way and an entire -wedding-party were engulfed. Boulevard de Rochechouart was named in -memory of a seventeenth-century abbess of Montmartre; it was in part of -its length boulevard des Poissoniers until the second half of the -nineteenth century. The music-hall "la Cigale," at No. 120, dating from -1822, was for long the famous "bal de la Boule-Noire." At No. 106 we see -a fresco on the bath house walls; an ancient house "Aux-deux-Marronniers" -at No. 38, and theatres, music-halls, etc., of marked local colour all -along the boulevard. - -Boulevard de la Chapelle runs along the line of the ancient boulevard -des Vertus. Vestiges dating from the days of the struggles between -Armagnacs and Bourguignons are still seen at No. 120, and at No. 39 of -the short Rue Château-Landon, opening out of the boulevard at No. 1, we -see the door of an ancient castel which was for long the country house -of the monks of St-Lazare. - -Boulevard Richard-Lenoir shows us nothing of special interest. The house -No. 140 is ancient. - -[Illustration: OLD WELL AT SALPÉTRIÈRE - -(Le puits de Manon Lescaut)] - -Boulevard de l'Hôpital dates from 1760. The hospital referred to is the -immense Salpétrière built as a refuge for beggars by Louis XIV on the -site where his predecessor had built a powder stores. A bit of the old -arsenal still stands and serves as a wash-house. The domed church was -erected a few years later; barrels collected from surrounding farms were -sawed up to make its ceiling. Presently a woman's prison was built -within the grounds--the prison we are shown in the Opera "Manon." The -convulsionists of St-Médard were shut up there. At the Revolution it was -invaded by the insurgents, women of ill-fame set free, many of the -prisoners slain. The new Hôpital de la Pitié was built in adjoining -grounds in recent years. The central Magasin des Hôpitaux at No. 87, -where we see an ancient doorway, is on the site of the hospital -burial-ground of former days. - -The fine old entrance portal of la Salpétrière, the statue of the famous -Dr. Charcot just outside it, the various seventeenth-century buildings, -the old woodwork within the hospital, the courtyard known as the Cour -des Massacres, the wide extending grounds, make a visit to this old -hospital very interesting. And the grass-grown open space before it, -with its shady trees, and the quaint streets around give a somewhat -rural and provincial aspect to this remote corner of Paris, making us -feel as if we were miles away from the city. Rue de Campo-Formio, -opening at No. 123, was known in the seventeenth century as Rue des -Étroites Ruelles. Rue Rubens was in past days Rue des Vignes. - -Boulevard Auguste-Blanqui, in the eighteenth century in part of its -length boulevard des Gobelins, shows us at No. 17 the last -Fontaine-Marchande de Paris, now shut down. At No. 50 we see the little -chapel Ste-Rosalie, with inscriptions recording the names of several -victims of the fire which destroyed the bazar de la Charité in 1897. At -No. 68 we used to see an eighteenth-century house of rustic aspect and -pillared frontal, said to have served as a hunting-lodge for Napoléon -I. Subsequently it was used as the Paris hospital laundry. In more -recent times the great sculptor Rodin made the old house his studio and, -when forced to evacuate, took away the interesting old woodwork and the -statues of its façade. - -Along boulevard St-Jacques (seventeenth century) we find several -tumbledown old houses. - -Boulevard Raspail is entirely modern, cut across streets of bygone ages, -their houses of historic memory razed to make way for it. The recently -erected No. 117 stands on the site of an old house where Victor Hugo -dwelt and wrote for thirteen years and received the notable men of his -day. Beneath the tree we see in the wall at No. 112 the poet loved to -sit and read. Reaching the top of the boulevard we see the ancient -Jesuit chapel, between Rue de Sèvres and Rue du Cherche-Midi. - -Boulevard Edgar-Quinet began as boulevard de Montrouge. Its chief point -of interest is the Montparnasse cemetery dating from 1826, with its -numerous tombs of notable persons. There we see, too, an ivy-covered -tower dating from the seventeenth century, known as la Tour-du-Moulin, -once the possession of a community of monks. - -Boulevard de Vaugirard (eighteenth century) included in past days the -course of the modernized boulevard Pasteur. We see old houses at -intervals here and in the Rue du Château which led formerly to the -hunting-lodge of the duc de Maine. In Rue Dutot, leading out of -boulevard Pasteur, we come to the great Institut Pasteur, built in 1900, -with its wonderful laboratories, its perfect organization for its own -special, invaluable branches of chemical study. The tomb of its founder -is there, too, in a crypt built by his pupils, his disciples. Behind -the central building we see a hospital for animals. The Lycée Buffon at -No. 16 covers the site of the ancient Vaugirard cemetery. Boulevard -Garibaldi began in 1789 as boulevard de Meudon, towards which it ran--at -a long distance; then it took the name of Javel, its more immediate -quarter, then of Grenelle through which it stretched. Some of the older -houses along its course and in adjoining streets, as also along the -course and adjoining streets of the present boulevard de Grenelle, its -continuation, still stand, none of special interest. A famous barrier -wall was in bygone days along the line where we see the Metropolitian -railway. Up against its wall, just in front of the station Dupleix, many -political prisoners of mark were shot in the years between 1797 and -1815. - -The boulevards des Invalides, de Montparnasse and de Port-Royal make one -long line. Boulevard des Invalides has its chief point of interest at -No. 33, the old hôtel Biron, later the convent of the Sacré-Coeur, -then Rodin's studio, and Paris home--now in part the museum he -bequeathed to Paris (_see_ pp. 192, 194). - -Boulevard Montparnasse, formed in 1760, shows us many fine -eighteenth-century _hôtels_ and some smaller structures of the same -period. On the site of No. 25, the _hôtel_ of the duc de Vendôme, -grandson of Henri IV, was the home of the children of Louis XIV by -Madame de Montespan. - -[Illustration: CLOÎTRE DE L'ABBAYE DE PORT-ROYAL] - -The Gare Montparnasse at No. 66 is a modern structure on the site of an -older railway station. Impasse Robiquet at No. 81 dates from the -fifteenth century. No. 87 is an old hunting-lodge, inhabited in more -modern days by Pierre Leroux, who was associated with George Sand in -founding the _Revue Indépendante_. Rue du Montparnasse, opening out of -the boulevard, is a seventeenth-century street cut across land -belonging in part to the church St-Laurent de Vaugirard, in part to the -Hôtel-Dieu. The church Notre-Dame-des-Champs is modern (1867-75). Rue -Stanislas, opening by the church at No. 91, was cut across the grounds -of the hôtel Terray, in the early years of the nineteenth century, where -the Collège Stanislas, named after Louis XVIII, was first instituted. At -No. 28 of the Rue Vavin, opening at No. 99, stood, till last year, the -ancient Pavillon de l'Horloge, a vestige of the old hôtel Traversière. -The short Rue de la Grande Chaumière, opened in 1830 as Rue Chamon, -memorizes by its present name a famous Latin quarter dancing-hall close -by. Here artists' models gather for hire at midday each Monday. Rue de -Chevreuse, opening at No. 125, was a thoroughfare as early as the year -1210, bordering an hôtel de Chevreuse et Rohan-Guéménée. A famous -eighteenth-century _porcelaine_ factory stood close here. - -Boulevard de Port-Royal: here at No. 119 we see the abbey built during -the first half of the seventeenth century. Hither came the good nuns of -Port-Royal-des-Champs in the valley of the Chevreuse, a convent founded -in the early years of the thirteenth century by Mathieu de Montmorency -and his wife Mathilde de Garlande and given to the Order of the -Bernardines. In the sixteenth century learned men desiring solitude -found it in that remote convent. Pascal made frequent sojourns there. -Quarrels between Jesuits and Jansenists brought about the destruction of -the convent of Port-Royal-des-Champs in 1710. The Paris Port-Royal went -on until 1790. Then the abbey became a prison, like so many other -important buildings, religious and secular; its name was changed to -Port-Libre, and numerous prisoners of note, Couthon among the rest, were -shut up there. In the year IV of the Convention, it became what it is on -a more complete scale to-day, a Maternity Hospital. Women-students sleep -in the ancient nuns' cells. Most of the old abbey buildings are still -intact. The tombstone of the recluse, Arnauld of Andilly, which we see -in the sacristy, was found beneath the pavement some years ago. The -portal is modern. The _annexe_ of the hospital Cochin at No. 111 is an -ancient Capucine convent; its chapel serves as the hospital -lecture-room. - -Rue Pierre-Nicole, opening out of the boulevard at No. 90, was cut in -modern days across the grounds of the ancient Carmelite convent -Val-de-Grâce. In the prolongation of the street we see some remains of -the convent. Here in ages long gone by was a Roman cemetery, where earth -burial as well as cremation was the rule. At No. 17 _bis_ of this -street we see the house once the oratory of Mademoiselle de la Vallière, -who as Soeur Louise de la Miséricorde passed the last thirty-six years -of her life in _pénitence_ here. The Marine barracks, Caserne Lourcine, -at No. 37 of the boulevard, are on the site of ancient barracks of the -Gardes Françaises, and record the former name of the Rue Broca, which we -look into here, a street of ancient dwellings. The hospital Broca, so -named after the famous doctor, was formed of part of the old convent of -the Cordelières, founded in 1259 by Margaret de Provence, wife of Louis -XI. The convent was pillaged in the sixteenth century by the Béarnais -troops, sequestrated and sold in Revolution days, to become in 1836 -Hôpital Lourcine and in 1892 Broca. - -[Illustration: REMAINS OF THE CONVENT DES CAPUCINES] - -The two great latter-day Paris boulevards are boulevard Haussmann and -boulevard Malesherbes. The first, planned and partially built by the -Préfet de la Seine whose name it bears, running through the 8th -arrondissement and into the 9th, begun in 1857, is wholly modern save -for one single house, No. 173, at the juncture of Rue du Faubourg -St-Honoré, dating from the eighteenth century; boulevard Malesherbes -dates from about the same period. Joining this boulevard at No. 11 is -Avenue Velasquez, where, at No. 7, we find the hôtel Cernuschi -bequeathed by its owner to Paris as an Oriental Museum. The handsome -church St-Augustin is of recent erection. Besides these stately -boulevards and some few others devoid of historic interest, there are -boulevards encircling Paris on every side, along the boundary-lines of -the city, with at intervals the city gates. The boulevards in the -vicinity of the Bois de Boulogne are studded with villas and mansions, -many of them very luxurious. There are modern mansions, modern dwellings -of various categories along the course of all the other boulevards of -this wide circumference bordering the fortifications, but with few -associations of the least historic interest, beyond that of their -nomenclature memorizing, in many instances, Napoléon's greatest -generals. - -Boulevard de la Villette is formed of several ancient boulevards, and -the name records the existence there in past days of the "_petite -ville_," a series of small buildings, dependencies of the leper-house -St-Lazare, first erected on a site known in the twelfth century as the -district of Rouvray. The black-walled Rotonde we see was the Custom -House first built in 1789, burnt down in 1871, and rebuilt on the old -plan. The Meaux barrier was there, bounding the highway to the north, a -point of great military interest. Louis XVI returned this way to Paris -after the flight to Varennes. The Imperial Guard passed here in triumph -in 1807, after their successful campaigns in Germany. Louis XVIII came -through the barrier gate here in 1814. The inn where the armistice was -signed in 1814 was on the Rond-Point opposite the barrier. At No. 130 of -the boulevard we come to Place du Combat, a name referring to no -military struggle, but to bull-fights, perhaps to cock-fights, which -took place here till into the nineteenth century. Close by is the site -of the great city gallows, the gibet de Maufaucon of bygone days (_see_ -p. 240). And here in its vicinity, in the little Rue Vicq d'Azir, dating -from the early years of last century, died the former Paris public -executioner Deibler in 1904. - -On the opposite side of Paris, in the boulevard Kellermann, the Porte de -Bicêtre recalls the English occupation of long-past ages or may be an -English colonization of later date, for Bicêtre is a corruption of the -name Winchester. These boulevards of the 13th arrondissement are -ragman's quarters, the district of the Paris _chiffonniers_. Here at the -poterne des Peupliers the Bièvre enters Paris to be entirely lost to -view nowadays in its course through the city beneath the pavements. - -The boulevards in the vicinity of Père Lachaise, Belleville, -Ménilmontant, Charonne, date from 1789. The short Rue des Panoyaux, -opening out of the boulevard Ménilmontant is said to owe its name to the -days when vines grew here, one bearing a seedless grape: "_pas -noyau_"--no kernel. Mention of the village of Charonne is found in -documents dating from the first years of the eleventh century. The -territory was church land, for the most part, owned by the old abbey -St-Magliore and the Paris Cathedral. - - - - -CHAPTER LI - -THE QUAYS - - -The quays of the Seine in its course through Paris are picturesque in -the extreme and show at almost every step points of historic interest. -That interest is strongest, the aspect of the quays most quaint and -entrancing, where they pass through the heart of the city. - -Let us start from the Point-du-Jour, the "Dawn of Day," at the point -where the boundary-line of Paris touches the _banlieue_ to the -south-east. The name refers to a famous duel fought here at the break of -day on a memorable morning in 1743. Taking the Rive Droite, the right -bank, we follow the Quai d'Auteuil which, till the closing years of the -nineteenth century, was a mere roadway along which the river boats were -loaded and unloaded. The fine viaduct across the river was built in -1864-65. It was fiercely bombarded in the war of 1870. On Sundays and -fête-days this quaint quay is gay with holiday-makers who crowd its -popular cafés, drinking-booths and shows. - -Quai de Passy was made in 1842 along that part of the old high road to -Versailles. Some quaint old houses still stand there. At No. 26 we see a -pavilion Louis XVI. No 32 is surrounded by a fine park wherein we find -vestiges of the home of the abbé Ragois, Madame de Maintenon's -confessor, and ferruginous springs. Rue Berton, leading up from the -Quai, is one of the most picturesque old streets of Paris. At No. 17 we -find an extensive property and a Louis XV _hôtel_, once the home of -successive families of the _noblesse_ and of the unhappy princesse de -Lamballe, now a Maison de Santé--a private asylum. The _borne_ at No. 24 -has been there since 1731, a boundary mark between the manors of Passy -and Auteuil. - -Quai de la Conférence, arrondissement VIII, dates from the latter years -of the eighteenth century, its name referring to the middle of the -previous century, when Spanish statesmen entered Paris by a great gate -in its vicinity to confer concerning the marriage of Louis XIV and -Marie-Thérèse. - -Cours-la-Reine, bordering the Seine along this quay, was first planted -by Marie de' Medici in 1618, on market-garden ground. It was a favourite -and fashionable promenade in the time of the Fronde; a moat surrounded -it and iron gates closed it in. At No. 16 of Rue Bayard leading out of -it, we see the Maison de François I, its sculptures the work of Jean -Goujon, brought here, bit by bit, in 1826 from the quaint old village of -Moret near Fontainebleau where it was first built. On its frontage we -read an inscription in Latin. - -Quai des Tuileries was formed under Louis XIV along the line of Charles -V's boundary wall razed in 1670. The walls of the Louvre bordering this -quay, dating originally from the time of Henri IV, who wished to join -the Louvre to the Tuileries, then without the city bounds, by a gallery, -were rebuilt by Napoléon III (1863-68). Place du Carrousel behind this -frontage, so named from a _carrousel_ given there by Louis XIV, in the -garden known then as the parterre de Mademoiselle, dates from 1662. At -the Revolution it became for the time the _soi-disant_ Place de la -Fraternité. On this fraternal (?) _place_ political prisoners were -beheaded, while the _conventionels_ looked on from the Tuileries -windows. And it was the scene of the historic days June 20th and August -10th, 1792, later of the 24th July, 1830. - -L'Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel dates from 1806, set up to commemorate -the campaign of 1805. The large square, in the centre of which stands -the colossal statue of Gambetta, known in the time of the Second Empire -as the Cour Napoléon III, was covered in previous days by a number of -short, narrow streets, interlacing. Several mansions, one or two -chapels, a small burial-ground, and a theatre, were there among these -streets and on beyond, and the grounds of the great hospital for the -blind, the "Quinze-Vingts," stretched along the banks of the Seine at -this point, extending from the hospital, in Rue St-Honoré, its site from -its foundation till its removal to Rue de Charenton in 1779 (_see_ p. -250). Alongside the Quai we see the terrace "Bord de l'Eau," of the -Tuileries gardens. The Orangerie reconstructed in 1853 was in the -seventeenth century a garden wherein was the famous Cabaret Regnard, -forerunner of the modern Casino. From this terrace to the Tuileries -Palace ran the subterranean passage made by Napoléon I for Marie Louise, -and here was the Pont-tournant, built by a monk in 1716, across which -Louis XVI was led back on his return from the flight to Varennes. - -The Quai de Louvre is a union of several stretches of quay known of old -by different names, the most ancient stretch, that between the Pont-Neuf -and Rue du Louvre, dating from the thirteenth century. In the jardin de -l'Infante, bordering the palace, here the old palace of the time of -Catherine de' Medici, we see statues of Velasquez, Raffet, Meissonnier, -Boucher. Reaching the houses along the quay we see at No. 10 the -ancient Café de Parnasse, now the Bouillon du Pont-Neuf, where Danton -was wont to pass many hours of the day and ended by wedding Gabrielle -Charpentier, its landlord's daughter. At No. 8, built by Louis XVI's -dentist, we see a fine wrought-iron balcony. And now we come to the -ancient Quai de la Mégisserie, dating from the time of Charles V, first -as Quai de la Sannierie, "tools for saltmaking" quay, then as Quai de la -Ferraille, "iron-instrument" quay. Its present name, too, denotes a -Paris industry, the preparation of sheepskins. The cross-roads where it -meets Quai du Louvre and the Pont-Neuf went in olden days by the name -Carrefour des Trois-Maries, also by that of Place du Four. - -The "Belle Jardinière" covers the site of the Forum Episcopi, the -episcopal prison of the Middle Ages, later a royal prison rebuilt in -1656 by de Gondi, the first archbishop of Paris. Its prisoners were for -the most part actors and actresses. Interesting old streets open on this -ancient quay. At No. 12, we turn into Rue Bertin-Poirée, a thoroughfare -in the earlier years of the thirteenth century, where at No. 5 we see a -quaint, time-worn sign of the Tour d'Argent, and several black-walled -houses. The thirteenth-century Rue Jean-Lantier, memorizing a Parisian -of that long-gone age, lies, in its upper part, across what was the -Place du Chevalier du Guet, from the _hôtel_ built there for a Knight of -the Guet (the Watch) of Louis IX's time. Rue des Lavandières, of the -same period, recalls the days when lavender growers and lavender dealers -lived and plied their thriving trade here. At No. 13 we see a fine -heraldic shield devoid of signs; at No. 6, old bas-reliefs. Rue des -Deux-Boules dates under other names from the twelfth century. At No. 2 -of this quay the great painter David was born in 1748. - -Quai des Gesvres was built by the Marquis de Gesvres in 1641. The -ancient arcades upon which it rests, hidden away with their vaulted -roofing, still support this old quay. The shops they once sheltered were -knocked to pieces in 1789. The Café at No. 10, built in 1855, was named -"A la Pompe Notre-Dame," to record the existence till then on the -bridge, Pont Notre-Dame, of the twin pumps from which the inhabitants of -the neighbourhood drew their water. Rue de la Tâcherie (_tâche_, task, -work) was known in thirteenth-century days as Rue de la Juiverie. This -is still the Jews' quarter of the city. - -Quai de l'Hôtel de Ville was formed in its present aspect in the -nineteenth century, of three ancient thoroughfares along the banks of -the Seine. Corn and hay were in old days landed here. On the walls of -the house No. 34 we see the date 1548, and find within an interesting -old staircase. At No. 90 opens the old Rue de Brosse, named in memory of -the architect of the fine portal of St-Gervais, before us here (_see_ p. -103), and of the Luxembourg palace, close by the ancient _impasse_ at -the south end of the church; and at the junction of Quai des Célestins, -opens the twelfth-century Rue des Nonnains d'Hyères, where the nuns -d'Yerres had of old a convent. Almost every house is ancient. In the -court at No. 21 we see the interesting façade of the hôtel d'Aumont, now -the Pharmacie Centrale des Hôpitaux. - -[Illustration: HÔTEL DE FIEUBET, QUAI DES CÉLESTINS] - -Quai des Célestins, in the district of the vanished convent (_see_ p. -303) has many interesting vestiges of the past. No. 32 is on the site of -the Tour Barbeau, where the wall of Philippe-Auguste ended, and of the -tennis-court which served at one time as a theatre for Molière and his -company (1645). The walls of No. 22 are one side of the fine old hôtel -de Vieuville (_see_ p. 114). At No. 16 we find a curious old court. No. -14, once hôtel Beaumarchais, then petit hôtel Vieuville, at one time -used as a Jewish temple, has a splendid frescoed ceiling. We see remains -of old _hôtels_ at No. 6 and 4. No. 2, l'École Massillon, built as a -private mansion, l'hôtel Fieubet, the work of Mansart (seventeenth -century), was restored in 1850, enlarged by the Oratoriens in 1877. - -Quai Henri IV stretches along the ancient line of the Île Louviers -joined to the Rive Droite in 1843, the property of different families of -the _noblesse_ till 1790. At No. 30 the Archives de la Seine. - -Quai de la Rapée, named from the country house of a statesman of the -days of Louis XV., is bordered along its whole course by old, but -generally sordid, structures, in olden days drinking booths. Passage des -Mousquetaires at No. 18 records the vicinity of the Caserne des -Mousquetaires, now l'Hôpital des Quinze-Vingts. - -Quai de Bercy, records by its name the _bergerie_, in old French -_bercil_, here in long-gone days. Here, too, there was a castle built by -Le Vau and extensive gardens laid out by the great seventeenth-century -gardener Le Nôtre. Their site was given up in the latter half of the -nineteenth century for the Entrepôts de Bercy. - -Picturesque old quays surround the islands on the Seine. Quai de -l'Horloge, overlooked by the venerable clock-tower of the Palais de -Justice (_see_ p. 50), went in past days by the name Quai des Morfondus, -the quay of people chilled by cold river mists and blasting winds. When -opticians made that river-bank their special quarter, it became Quai des -Lunettes. Lesage, author of _Gil Blas_, lived here in 1715, at the -Soleil d'Or. No. 41, where dwelt the engraver Philipon, Mme Roland's -father, is known as the house of Madame Roland, for it was the home of -her girlhood. No. 17 dates from Louis XIII. - -Quai des Orfèvres, the goldsmith's quay, dating from the end of the -sixteenth and first years of the seventeenth centuries, lost its most -ancient, most picturesque structures by the enlarging of the Palais de -Justice in recent years. In ancient days a Roman wall passed here. At -No. 20 of the Rue de Harlay, opening out of it, we see part of an -ancient archway. At No. 2 a Louis XIII house. Nos. 52-54 on the _quai_ -date from 1603, the latter once the firm of jewellers implicated in the -_affaire du collier_. At No. 58 lived Strass, the inventor of the -simili-diamonds. - -Quai de la Cité was built in 1785, on the site of the ancient -_port-aux-oeufs_, remains of which were unearthed in making the -metropolitan railway, a few years ago. Along these banks we see the -Paris bird shops; the Marché-aux-Oiseaux is held here. And close by is -the Marché-aux-Fleurs. Merovingian remains were found beneath the -surface on this part of the quay in 1906. Thick, strong walls believed -to have been built by Dagobert, inscriptions, capitals, tombstones--the -remains of oldest Paris. - -Quai de l'Archevêché records the existence there of the archbishop's -palace built in 1697 by Cardinal de Noailles, pillaged and razed to the -ground in 1831. The sacristy and presbytery we see there now are modern. -This is the quay of the Paris Morgue, the Dead-house, brought here in -1864 from the Marché-Neuf, which had been its site since 1804, when it -was removed from le Grand Châtelet. For years past we have been told it -is "soon" to be again removed, taken to a remoter corner of the city. - -The Square de l'Archevêché, laid out in 1837, was in olden days a -stretch of waste land known as the "Motte aux Papelards," the playground -of the Cathedral Staff. Boileau's Paris home was here in a street long -swept away. His country-house, as we know, was at Auteuil (_see_ p. -275). In 1870 the square was turned for the time into an artillery -ground. - -Quai de Bourbon on the Île St. Louis dates from 1614. Every house along -its line is interesting, of seventeenth-century date for the most part. -At No. 3, we see a shop of the days and style Louis XV. Nos. 13-15, -hôtel de Charron, where in modern times Meissonnier had his studio. We -see fine doors and doorways, courts, staircases, balustrades, at every -house. No. 29 was the home of Roualle de Boisgelon. Philippe de -Champaigne lived for a time at No. 45. - -Quai d'Orléans was named after Gaston, the brother of Louis XIII. No. 18 -is the hôtel Roland. No. 6 is a Polish museum and library. - -Quai de Béthune, once Quai du Dauphin, named by the Revolutionists Quai -de la Liberté, shows us seventeenth-century houses along its entire -course. No. 32 was the home of the statesman Turgot in his youth--his -father's house. Subterranean passages ran to the Seine from No. 30, and -some other riverine houses. At No. 24, built by Le Vau, we find an -interesting court, with fountain, etc. - -Quai d'Anjou is another Orleans quay, for Gaston was duc d'Anjou. No. 1 -is the splendid hôtel Lambert de Thorigny (_see_ p. 93). No. 5, the -"petit hôtel Poisson de Marigny," brother of Mme de Pompadour. No. 7, -began as part of the hôtel Lambert, and is now headquarters of the -municipal bakery directors. Nos. 11, 13, hôtel of Louis Lambert de -Thorigny. No. 17, hôtel Lauzun, husband of "La Grande Mademoiselle," in -later times the habitation of several distinguished men of letters: -Baudelaire, Théophile Gautier, etc. The society of the "Parisiens de -Paris" bought it in 1904, a magnificent mansion, classed as "Monument -historique," under State protection, therefore, in regard to its upkeep. -Nos. 23 and 25 are built on staves over four old walls. No. 35 was built -by Louis XIV's coachman. - - -RIVE GAUCHE (LEFT BANK). - -We will start again from the south-western corner. Here in 1777, in the -little riverside hamlet beyond Paris, a big factory was built, where was -first made the disinfectant, of so universal use in France, known as -_eau de Javel_. The Quai de Javel was constructed some fifty years -later. - -Quai de Grenelle, a rough road from the eighteenth century, was built at -the same period. The Allée des Cygnes owes its name to the ancient Île -des Cygnes, known in the sixteenth century and onwards as Île -Maquerelle, or _mal querelle_, for the secluded islet on the Seine, -joined later to the river-bank, offered a fine spot in those days for -fights and quarrels. In the time of Louis XIV the islet was a public -promenade, and the King had swans put there, hence its name. - -Quai d'Orsay memorizing a famous parliamentary man of his day, Prévôt -des Marchands, first constructed in the early years of the eighteenth -century, was known from 1802 to 1815 as Quai Buonaparte. It extends far -along the 7th arrondissement. There we see along its borders the bright -gardens of the recently laid out park of the Champ de Mars, and numerous -smart modern streets and avenues opening out of it. No. 105 is the State -Garde-Meuble, its walls sheltering magnificent tapestries, and historic -relics of the days of kings and emperors. At No. 99 were the imperial -stables. No 97, Ministère du Travail. The Ministère des Affaires -Étrangères (Foreign Office), at No. 37, is a modern structure. The -Palais de la Présidence, at No. 35, dates from 1722. The Palais-Bourbon -from the same date (_see_ p. 200). - -The busy Gare d'Orléans, so prominent a modern structure along the quay, -covers the site of the old Palais d'Orsay, and an ancient barracks burnt -to the ground in 1871. In an inner courtyard at No. 1 we find the -remains of the ancient hôtel de Robert de Cotte, royal architect-in-chief, -in the early years of the eighteenth century. - -Quai Voltaire was known in part of its course in eighteenth-century days -as Quai des Théatins. It was constructed under Mazarin, restored in -1751. Many names of historic note are associated with the handsome house -at No. 27, built in or about 1712, for Nicolas de Bragelonne, Treasurer -of France. Its chief point of interest is connected with Voltaire. Here -he died in 1778; here his heart was kept till 1791. No. 25 was the home -of Alfred de Musset. The ground between 25 and 15 was occupied from the -days of Mazarin till 1791 by the convent of the Théatins. The short Rue -de Beaume close here shows us many interesting old-time houses. No. 1 -was the hôtel of the Marquis de Villette, who became a member of the -Convention, and called his son Voltaire. At No. 3 were his stables. -Boissy d'Anglas lived at No. 5, in 1793, and Chateaubriand stayed here -in 1804. No. 17, dating from about 1670, was the house of the Carnot -family. At No. 10 we see vestiges of a house belonging to the -Mousquetaires Gris, for this was their headquarters. No. 2 was built for -the Marquis de Mailly-Nesle. Nos. 11 to 9, along the _quai_, formed the -habitation of Président de Perrault, secretary to the Grand Condé. The -duchess of Portsmouth lived here in 1690, and here the great painter, -Ingres, died in 1867. - -Quai Malaquais began as Quai de la Reine Marguerite, but was nicknamed -forthwith Quai Mal-acquet (_Mal-acquis_) because the Queen, Henri IV's -light-lived, divorced wife, had taken the abbey grounds of the Petit -Pré-aux-Clercs whereon to build her garden-surrounded mansion. At No. 1 -the architect Visconti died in 1818. In 1820 Humboldt lived at No. 3. -The statue of Voltaire by Caillé was set up opposite No. 5 in 1885. The -house at No. 9 was built about 1624 on the ground _mal-acquis_ by -Margaret de Valois. No. 11, École des Beaux-Arts, is on the site of the -ancient hôtel de Brienne, Louis XIV's Secretary of State. Joined later -to the house next door it became the home of Mazarin, by and by of -Fouché, and was made to communicate with the police offices at a little -distance. Nos. 15 and 17, built by Mansart in 1640, restored a century -later, after long habitation by persons of noted name, was taken over by -the State, and in 1885 annexed to the Beaux-Arts. - -Quai de Conti records the name of the brother of the Grand Condé. Its -most prominent building is the Institut de France, the Collège Mazarin, -built in 1663-70, as the Collège des Quatre Nations Réunies. Its left -pavilion covers the site of the ancient Tour de Nesle, washed by the -Seine, which formed the boundary point of Philippe-Auguste's wall and -rampart. Mazarin's will endowed the college for the benefit of sixty -impecunious gentlemen's sons of Alsace, France, Pignerol, Roussillon. -The Revolutionists styled it "Collège de l'Unité," then in 1793 -suppressed it, and used the building for meetings of the Salut Public, -later as an École Normale, then as a Palais des Arts; finally, after -undergoing restoration, it became in 1805 the Institut de France, as we -know it. The ancient chapel has been taken for the great meeting-hall, -the hall of the grandes "Séances." For long Mazarin's tomb, now in the -Louvre, was there. His body is said to be there still, deep down beneath -the chapel pavement. The Bibliothèque Mazarine is in the part of the -building covering the spot where the petit hôtel de Nesle stood of old. -The greater part of the statesman's valuable collection of books was -brought here from his palace, now incorporated in the Bibliothèque -Nationale, Rue de Richelieu, according to his will. It contains many -precious ancient volumes and manuscripts. The house No. 15 was built by -Louis XIV on the foundations of the ancient Tour de Nesle. No. 13, where -we see the shop of the booksellers Pigoreau, was built by Mansard, in -1659, one of its walls resting upon a bit of the ancient wall of -Philippe-Auguste. Here, on the third story, we may see the room, an -attic then, as now, where young Buonaparte, a student at the École -Militaire, used to spend his holidays, welcomed there by old friends of -his family. The short Rue Guénégaud, memorizing the mansion once there, -bordering at one part the walls of the Mint, shows us along the rest of -its course, at No. 1, remains of a once famous marionnettes theatre; -at No. 19 an old gabled house; in the court, No. 29, a tower of -Philippe-Auguste's wall; an ancient inscription at No. 35; a fine old -door at No. 16, etc. The narrow old-world Rue de Nevers shows us none -but ancient houses. This thirteenth-century street was formerly closed -at both ends and known therefore as Rue des Deux-Portes. Beneath No. 13 -of the little Rue de Nesle runs an ancient subterranean passage blocked -in recent years. The old house at No. 5 of the quay was for long looked -upon as the dwelling of Buonaparte after he left Brienne. At the -recently razed No. 3 lived Marie-Antoinette's jeweller, his shop -surmounted by the sign "Le petit Dunkerque," referring to articles of -curiosity in the jewellery line, much in vogue in the year 1780. A -little café at No. 1, also razed, was till lately the humble successor -of the first Paris "Café des Anglais," set up there in 1769, a -gathering-place for British men of letters. - -[Illustration: QUAI DES GRANDS-AUGUSTINS] - -Quai des Grands-Augustins, the oldest of Paris quays, dates in part from -the thirteenth century, and records the existence there of the monastery -where in its heyday the great assemblies of the clergy were held, and -the ecclesiastical archives kept from 1645 to 1792. The Salle des -Archives was then given up to the making of _assignats_. In 1797 the -convent was sold and razed to the ground. We see some traces of it at -No. 55. The bookseller's shop there was till recent years paved with -gravestones from the convent chapel which stood on the site of No. 53. -The restaurant Lapérouse at No. 51 was, in the seventeenth century, the -hôtel of the comte de Bruillevert. The Académie bookseller, -Didier-Perrin, is established in the ancient hôtel Feydeau et Montholon. -No. 25 was built by François I. No. 23 opened on the vanished Rue de -Hurepoix. No. 17 was part of the hôtel d'O, subsequently hôtel de -Luynes. - -Quai St-Michel was known for a time in Napoléon's day as Quai de la -Gloriette. Its first stone was laid so far back as 1561, then no more -stones added till 1767, an interim of two centuries. Another -interruption deferred its completion to the year 1811. The two narrow -sordid streets we see opening on to it, Rue Zacharie and Rue du Chat qui -Pêche, date, the first from 1219, as in part Rue Sac-à-lie in part Rue -des Trois-Chandeliers, from its earliest days a slum; the second, a mere -alley, from 1540. - -Quai de Montebello began in 1554 as Quai des Bernardins from the -vicinity of the convent--its walls still standing (_see_ p. 136). The -quay bore several successive names till its entire reconstruction in -early nineteenth-century years, when it was renamed in memory of -Napoléon's great General, Maréchal Lannes. - -Quai de la Tournelle was Quai St-Bernard in the fourteenth century. The -Porte St-Bernard was close by. La Tournelle was a stronghold where -prisoners were kept close until deported. On the wall of Nos. 57-55, now -a distillery, we read the words: "Hôtel cy-devant de Nesmond." It began -as hôtel du Pain. Président de Nesmond, who owned it later, inscribed -his name on its frontage, the first inscription of the kind known. The -Pharmacie Centrale we see at No. 47 is the ancient convent of the -Miramiones. The nuns were so named from Mme de Miramion who, left a -widow at sixteen, founded this convent for the care of poor girls. The -nuns had their own boat to convey the girls to services at Notre-Dame. -In the chapel we find seventeenth-century decorations, and in the body -of the building many interesting vestiges. On the walls at No. 37 we -read the inscription, "Hôtel cy-devant du Président Rolland" (the -anti-Jesuit). The old-time coaches for Fontainebleau had their bureau -and starting-point at No. 21. No. 15 is the quaint and historic -restaurant de la Tour d'Argent, which has existed since 1575 (closed -during the war), famed for its excellent and characteristic _cuisine_ -and its picturesque, old-time menu cards, with their strong spice of -_couleur locale_. - -Quai d'Austerlitz is the old Quai de l'Hôpital. The boundary-line -between Paris and what was before its incorporation the village of -Austerlitz passed at No. 21. The famous hôtel des Haricots, the prison -of the Garde Nationale, where many artists and men of letters of olden -days served a period of punishment, often left their names written in -couplets on its walls, was till the early years of last century on the -site where now we see the busy departure platform of the Gare d'Orléans. - -Quai de la Gare, bordered by ancient houses, was till 1863 route -Nationale. - - - - -CHAPTER LII - -LES PONTS (THE BRIDGES) - - -Once more to the south-western corner of this "bonne ville de Paris." -The first bridge over the Seine within the city boundary, beginning at -this end, is the Viaduct d'Auteuil (_see_ p. 320). The second is -Pont-Mirabeau, dating from the last decade of the nineteenth century. -Pont de Grenelle is of earlier date (1825). The Statue of Liberty we see -there (Bartholdi) is a replica in reduced size of that sent to New York. -Pont de Passy first spanned the Seine as a mere footway at the time of -the Exhibition of 1878, rebuilt in its present form in 1906. Pont d'Iéna -has a greater historic interest. Its construction was set about in 1806. -It had just been finished when in 1814 Blücher and the Allies proposed -to blow it up. Royal influence prevailed to save it. It was called -thenceforth till 1830 Pont des Invalides. - -Pont de l'Alma, that emphatically Second-Empire bridge with its four -Napoléonic soldiers, a Zouave, an infantry man, an artillery man, and a -chasseur, was built between the years 1854-57. It was still unfinished -when on April 2nd, 1856, Napoléon III and a sumptuously accoutred -cortège passed across it to present flags to the regiments returned from -the Crimea. Pont-des-Invalides was built in 1855. - -[Illustration: LE PONT DES ARTS ET L'INSTITUT] - -The first stone of the very ornate Pont Alexandre III, formed of a -single arch 107 mètres long, was laid with great ceremony by the Czar -Nicholas II in 1896. It was opened in 1900. - -A truly historic bridge is the Pont de la Concorde, built between 1787 -and 1790, finished with stones off the razed Bastille, and called at -first Pont Louis XVI. Louis' head fell, and the bridge became Pont de la -Révolution. Twelve immense statues of famous statesmen and warriors were -set up on it in 1828. They were considered too big, and in 1851 were -taken away to the Cour d'Honneur de Versailles. - -[Illustration: PONT-NEUF] - -Pont de Solferino, built in 1858, records the victorious Italian -campaigns of 1859. - -Pont-Royal was designed by Mansart and built in 1689 by Dominican monks -to replace a smaller, more primitive bridge which had been known -successively as Pont-Barlier, Pont-des-Tuileries, Pont-Rouge, and Pont -Ste-Anne; it underwent restoration in 1841. Pont des Saints-Pères, or -Pont du Carrousel was one of the last of Paris bridges to pay toll; -built in 1834, restored in recent years. - -Pont-des-Arts, so called from its vicinity to the Louvre, leading in a -straight line from the colonnaded archway of the Court Carrée to the -Institut, was opened in 1804, restored 1854. - -Pont-Neuf, the most characteristic of Paris bridges, dates back to the -reign of Henri III. The King himself laid its first stone in 1578, but -it was not finished till 1603, when Henri IV was King. "Le bon Roi" -determined to be the first to cross it on horseback, and while it was -still unsafe spurred his thoroughbred along the unfinished bridge way. -His lords, hastening to follow where their master led, were jolted out -of their saddles, and falling upon the unparapeted structure, rolled -into the river and were drowned. Louis XIII set up a statue of his -father on horseback on the bridge; the statue of the horse was a gift -from Cosimo de' Medici to Louis' mother. At the Revolution it was -overturned, taken away, and melted down to make cannons for the -insurgents. Louis XVIII replaced it by a statue made of the bronze of -the first statue of Napoléon that had been set up on Place Vendôme and -that of his general, Desaix, on Place des Victoires. Though set up by -the Bourbon King, the figure we see is believed to contain within it a -statuette of Napoléon I and Voltaire's _Henriade_. Until 1848 there were -shops within the semicircles we see on either side of the old bridge, -and beneath the second archway near the right bank there was one of the -first hydraulic pumps, known as "la Samaritaine." Its water was conveyed -to the Louvre, the Tuileries, and to houses all around, and fed the -famous old fountain built in 1608, destroyed a century later, rebuilt in -1715, again destroyed after another hundred years, with the figure of -the Samaritan woman giving water to our Saviour. The bathing-house near -the spot with its sign, and the big modern shop of hideous aspect, alone -remain to record the name of the ancient pump and fountain. Two or three -ancient houses still stand on the Place du Pont-Neuf in the middle of -the bridge. At its picturesque western point we see the tree-shaded -square Henri IV, known also as the Square du Vert-Galant. Place -Dauphine, at its south-western side, dates from the days when Henri's -son, later Louis XIII, was dauphin. - -The Pont St-Michel we see to-day was built in 1857. The first bridge -there, joining the mainland to the island on the Seine, was constructed -towards the close of the fourteenth century. That bridge and two -successive ones were destroyed by fire. - -Pont-au-Change, the Money-changers' Bridge, was in olden days a wooden -construction which went by the names Pont de la Marchandise and -Pont-aux-Oiseaux. Jewellers as well as money-changers plied their trade -along its planks, perhaps also bird merchants. It was a little higher up -the river in its early twelfth century days and was often flooded. It -was badly burnt, too, more than once; then in the seventeenth century -was entirely rebuilt of stone, and bronze statues of the royal family, -Louis XIII, Louis XIV as a child, and Anne d'Autriche, set up there. In -the century following the houses upon it were all cleared away and in -1858 it was again rebuilt. - -The Petit-Pont joins the Île to the left bank at the very same spot -where the Romans made a bridge across the river, one of two which -spanned the Seine in their day, and on beyond. Like all town bridges of -the Middle Ages it was made of wood and each side thickly built upon by -houses and shops; windmills, too, stood on this ancient bridge, grinding -corn for the citizens around. And where we now see the Place du -Petit-Pont there stood a wooden tower, la Tour de Bois, erected to -protect the bridge against the invading Normans. At the Musée Carnavalet -an ancient inscription may be seen, recording the names of twelve -warriors who fought here to defend their city, led by Gozlin, bishop of -Paris, in 886. In the twelfth century Maurice de Sully, the builder of -Notre-Dame, rebuilt the bridge in stone, but flood and fire laid it in -ruins time after time. The last destructive fire was in the spring of -1718. It was then rebuilt minus its wooden houses. The present structure -dates from 1853. The _place_ was built in 1782, when the Petit Châtelet, -which had succeeded the Tour de Bois, was razed. In Rue du Petit-Pont we -see some old houses on the odd number side. Many were demolished when -the street was widened a few years ago. - -The other bridge of Roman times, succeeding no doubt a rude primitive -bridge, stretched where the Pont Notre-Dame now spans the river. The -Roman bridge, built on staves, was overthrown by the Normans in 861. -Rebuilt as Pont Notre-Dame in 1413, it crashed to pieces some eighty -years later, carrying down with it the house of a famous printer of the -day. It was alternatively destroyed and rebuilt several times till its -last reconstruction in 1853. Its houses were the first in France to be -numbered (1507). There were sixty-eight of them and the numbering was -done in gold or gilded ciphers. All these old houses were pulled down in -1786. Pont Notre-Dame was the "bridge of honour." Sovereigns coming to -Paris in state crossed it to enter the city. Close up to it stood for -nearly two hundred years--1670 to 1856--the Pompe Notre-Dame, from -which all the fountains of the district were supplied with water. - -Pont d'Arcole, built as we now see it in 1854, succeeded a wooden bridge -erected in 1828 with the name Pont de la Grève, commonly called Pont de -la Balance. It gained its present name, recalling Napoléon's victory of -1796, in the Revolution of 1830, when a youth at the head of a band of -insurgents rushed upon the bridge waving the tricolor and shouting: "If -I die, remember my name is Arcole." - -Pont-au-Double, so called because to cross it passengers paid a double -toll for the benefit of the Hôtel-Dieu, is a nineteenth-century -construction, replacing the original bridge of the name built in the -sixteenth century, a little higher up the river. - -Pont de l'Archevêché dates from 1828. Pont St-Louis, joining l'Île de la -Cité to l'Île St-Louis, was built in 1614 as a wooden bridge painted red -and called, therefore, Pont-Rouge. Like all wooden erections of the age, -it was damaged by fire, and in the eighteenth century at the time of the -Revolution, "icebergs" on the Seine knocked it over. An iron footbridge -was put up in its place and remained till 1862, when the bridge we see -was built. - -Pont Louis-Philippe was built in the same year to replace a suspension -bridge paying toll. - -Pont de la Tournelle, built as we see it in 1851, began as a wooden -bridge of fourteenth-century erection.[I] - -Pont Marie was not, as one might suppose, named in honour of the Virgin, -nor after Marie de' Medici, who laid its first stone. It simply records -the name of its constructor, who was "Entrepreneur-Général des Ponts de -France" at the time. Fifty houses were built upon it. Some were -destroyed by floods a few years later, others razed in 1788. The two -Ponts de Sully are, except Pont de Tolbiac, the most modern of Paris -bridges, built some years after the Franco-Prussian war, replacing two -older bridges of slight importance. Pont d'Austerlitz dates from 1806, -the year of the great battle. When the Emperor fell the Allies demanded -the suppression of the name, and the French Government of the day called -the bridge Pont du Jardin du Roi, referring to the Jardin des Plantes in -its vicinity (_see_ p. 155). The name did not catch on. The people would -have none of it. It has remained a reminder of Napoléon's victory. It -has been enlarged more than once, the last time in 1885. Pont de Bercy -was built in 1835, rebuilt 1864. Pont de Tolbiac, in 1895. Pont -National, a footbridge, in 1853. - -[Illustration: PARIS - -_Limite des Arrondts_] - - - - -INDEX TO HISTORIC PERSONS - - -A - -Abelard, 91, 135 - -About, Edmond, 228 - -Affre, Monseigneur, Archbishop of Paris, 250, 289 - -Agnesseau, Henri d', 200, 274 Madame de, 274 - -Agrippa, 147 - -Alba, Duque d', 197 - -Albert, le Grand, Maître, 134-5 - -Alexander I, Czar, 217 - -Alexander III, Pope, 88 - -Amélie, Ex-Queen Dowager of Portugal, 195 - -Ancre, Maréchale d', 168 - -Angoulême, Duc d', 44 - -Angoulême, Duchesse d' (daughter of Louis XVI), 148, 258, 161 - -Anjou, Charles d', King of Naples and Sicily, 110 - -Anjou, Duc d', King of Poland, 222 - -Anjou, Duc de, _see_ Orléans, Gaston d' - -Anne d'Autriche, Queen, 14, 32, 59, 154, 188, 205, 300, 341 - -Anne de Bretagne, Queen, 184 - -Arcole, 343 - -Arc, Jeanne d', 27, 209, 289 - -Armagnacs, the, 310 - -Arnaud of Andilly, recluse, 316 - -Arnould, Sophie, 60 - -Artagnan, Lieutenant-Captain d', 22 - -Astley's Circus, 241 - -Atkins, Mrs. (_née_ Walpole), 200, 205 - -Auber, 229 - -Aubert, M., vicaire, 134 - -Aubray, Antoine d', 116 - -Aubriot, Prévôt de Paris (13th century), 107 - -Aubriot, Hugues, Prévôt du Roi, 123 - -Augier, Émile, 32 - -Aulard, Pierre, 98 - -Aymon, Les Quatre Fils d', 76 - - -B - -Balbi, Comtesse de, 175 - -Ballard, 35-6 - -Ballu, 26 - -Balsamo, Joseph, Comte de Cagliostro, 84, 303 - -Balue, Jean de la, 76 - -Balzac, Honoré de, 72, 83, 165, 172, 216, 256, 271-2 - -Barbette, 82 - -Barclay, Robert, 161 - -Barras, 164, 229 - -Barrère, 27 - -Barrias, 264 - -Bartholdi, 337 - -Basville, Lamoignon de, 196 - -Batz, Baron, 58 - -Baudelaire, 329 - -Baudry, Paul, 41 - -Bault, and his wife, 110 - -Beauharnais, Eugène de, 205 - -Beauharnais family, 198 - -Beauharnais, Joséphine (later Empress), 60, 164, 165, 168, 171, 217, -225, 298 - -Beauharnais, Vicomte de, 171 - -Beaumarchais, 111, 228, 303 - -Beauvais, Pierre de, 198 - -Beauvalet, 198 - -Beauvau, Prince de, 211 - -Bègue, 296 - -Belhomme, Dr., 244 - -Bellefond, Abbesse de, 235 - -Béranger, 32, 41, 78, 272 - -Berlioz, 224, 227, 228, 282 - -Berlioz, Madame (_née_ Smithson), 282 - -Bernadotte, 235 - -Bernhardt, Sarah, 301 - -Berri, Duc de, 52, 217, 219 - -Berri, Duchesse de, 217, 270, 300 - -Berryer, 196 - -Biard, 73 - -Blanche of Castille, Queen, 39, 137, 177, 252 - -Blanche, Docteur, 273, 285 - -Blanche de France, 104 - -Blanche, Queen, widow of Philippe de Valois, 252 - -Blücher, Marshal, 337 - -Boffrand, 29, 205 - -Boigne, Comtesse de, 210 - -Boileau, 174, 275, 328 - -Boisgelon, Roualle de, 338 - -Boissy d'Anglas, 331 - -Bonheur, Rosa, 176, 185 - -Bosi, 10 - -Bossuet, 33, 39, 98, 186 - -Bossuet, Abbé, 92-3 - -Bouchandon, 197 - -Boucher, 39 - -Boulanger, Général, 265 - -Bourbon, Cardinal Charles de, 174 - -Bourbon, Comte de, 39 - -Bourbon, Duchesse de, 217 - -Bourbon-Condé, Mlle. de, Abbesse de Remiremont, 193 - -Bourbon, Louis de, Prince de Condé, 200-1 - -Bourdon, 159 - -Bourguignons, the, 310 - -Bourrienne, 237 - -Bragelonne, Nicolas de, 330 - -Breteuil, Général de, 191 - -Breteuil, Marquis de, 33, 234 - -Briancourt, 116 - -Brienne, de, 331 - -Brinvilliers, Madame de, 116, 118, 135 - -Brissac, Duc de, 248 - -Brisson, Président, 7 - -Brosse, Jacques de, 164 - -Brosse, Salomon de, 104, 162 - -Bruillevert, Comte de, 334 - -Brunehaut, Queen, 22 - -Buffon, 155, 156 - -Buonaparte, Caroline (Murat), 217 - -Buonaparte, Jérôme, 17, 157 - -Buonaparte, Lætitia (Madame-mère), 199 - -Buonaparte, Lucien, 219 - -Buonaparte, Napoléon, _see_ Napoléon I - -Buonaparte, Napoléon, Orma, 17 - -Buonaparte, Pauline (Princesse Borghese), 218 - -Buonaparte, Prince Victor, 17 - -Buonarotti, Michael Angelo, 4 - - -C - -Cadoual, 42, 68, 206 - -Cagliostro, Comte de, 84, 303 - -Caillé, 331 - -Cain, Georges, 81 - -Calvin, Jean, 148 - -Cambon, 28 - -Cambronne, Général, 260 - -Camille, Soeur, 168-9 - -Carême, Antoine, 36 - -Carlos, King of Portugal, 195 - -Carnot, 219 - -Carnot family, 205, 331 - -Carpeaux, 223 - -Casabianca, 60 - -Casanova, 58 - -Casimir, King of Poland, 174 - -Cassini, 256 - -Castanier, de, 61 - -Catherine de' Medici, Queen, 8, 9, 10, 39, 79, 154, 157, 203, 267, 322 - -Caumartin, Prévôt des Marchands, 223 - -Cavaignac, 298, 309 - -Celestin V, Pope, 303 - -Cernuschi, 318 - -Certain, Vicaire, 142 - -Cerutti, 230 - -Chabanais, Marquis de, 244 - -Chalgrin, 28, 140, 164, 175, 176, 215, 217 - -Champaigne, Philippe, de, 110, 151, 328 - -Chanac, Guillaume de, Archbishop of Paris, 135, 160 - -Chantal, Mme de, 120 - -Charcot, Dr., 312 - -Charlemagne, 22, 88, 209, 258 - -Charles I of England, 14, 267 - -Charles-le-Mauvais, 40 - -Charles V, Emperor, 3 - -Charles V, King, 2, 38, 39, 108, 116, 117, 118, 120, 123, 247, 303, 321, -323 - -Charles VI, 23, 98, 252 - -Charles VII, 43 - -Charles IX, 7, 10, 270 - -Charles X, 219 - -Charlotte de Bavière, 166 - -Charost, Duc de, 218 - -Charpentier, 157 - -Charpentier, Gabrielle, 323 - -Chaslun, Pierre de, Abbot of Cluny, 138 - -Châtel, Jean, 26 - -Chavannes, Puvis de, 147, 228, 277 - -Châteaubriand, 28, 204, 207, 218, 258, 331 - -Châteaubriand, Madame, 258 - -Chénier, André, 58, 165, 237, 248, 273 - -Cherubini, 234 - -Chevalier, Honoré, 175 - -Childebert, King, 90, 173, 181 - -Chimay, Princesse de (_ci-devant_ Mme Tallien), 214 - -Choiseul, Duc and Duchesse de, 60 - -Choiseul, Ducs de, 53 - -Chopin, 31, 209 - -Christine de France, 180 - -Cinq Mars, 108 - -Clarence, Duke of, 74 - -Claretie, 228 - -Clavière, 240 - -Clemenceau, 268 - -Clementine, Princess, of Belgium, 17 - -Clermont, Robert de, 39 - -Clermont, Bishop of, 141 - -Clisson, Connétable Olivier de, 74 - -Clothilde, Princess, 17 - -Clovis, King, 209 - -Cochin, Vicaire, 256 - -Colbert, 4, 132, 213, 250, 256 - -Coligny, Admiral, 7, 21, 26 - -Commines, Philippe de, 266 - -Comte, Auguste, 82, 170, 185 - -Concini, 7 - -Condé, le Grand, 113, 331 - -Condé, Louis de Bourbon, Prince de, 200-1 - -Conflans, Jean de, 39 - -Conti, brother of Condé, 331 - -Conti, Princesse de, 168 - -Coppée, François, 243, 286 - -Corday, Charlotte, 18, 173, 185, 206, 210, 212 - -Corneille, Pierre, 32, 58 - -Corot, 167, 234, 237 - -Cotte, Robert de, 197, 330 - -Cousin, Jules, 82 - -Coustou, 10, 159, 212 - -Couthon, 28, 316 - -Coysevox, 135, 159, 212 - -Crawford, 227 - -Cuvier, 156, 207 - - -D - -Dagobert, King, 86, 91, 113, 289, 327 - -Dangest, 299 - -Dante, 132, 135 - -Danton, 333 - -Darboy, Mgr., Archbishop of Paris, 241-2, 243 - -Daubenton, 156 - -Daubigny, 229 - -Daudet, Alphonse, 111, 120, 165, 200 - -David, 324 - -David, Bishop of Moray, 161 - -Deguerry, Abbé, 209, 243 - -Deibler, 319 - -Dejazet, 302 - -De la Bedoyère, Colonel, 234 - -De la Brosse, Guy, 155 - -Delacroix, 175 - -Delamair, 74, 75 - -De la Meilleraie, Maréchale, 207 - -De la Rapée, 326 - -De la Reynie, 98 - -Delaroche, 171 - -De la Rochefoucault, Cardinal, 145, 188 - -De la Tour d'Auvergne, Abbesse de Montmartre, 232 - -De la Tour-du-Pin-Gouvernet family, 76 - -De la Vallette, Comtesse, 219 - -De la Vallière, Louise, 153-4, 257, 267, 317 - -Delavigne, Casimir, 233 - -De l'Épée, Abbé, 33, 153, 303 - -Delorme, Marion, 82, 120 - -Delorme, Philibert, 8, 59 - -Desaix, Général, 49, 340 - -Descartes, 158 - -Desmoulins, Camille, 17, 18, 162, 165 - -Diane de France, 111 - -Diderot, 27, 304-5 - -Dionis, 156 - -Doge, the (1686), 198 - -Doré, Gustave, 199, 228 - -Dosne, Mme, 229 - -Dosne, Mlle, 229 - -Duban, 6 - -Dubarry, Jean, 59 - -Dubarry, Mme, 58, 135 - -Dumas, 226 - -Dumas, Alexandre, _père_, 32, 229 - -Dupin, Aurore (George Sand), 66 - -Duret, 199 - -Duret, Président, 205 - - -E - -Edgeworth, Abbé, 77, 148 - -Effiat, Maréchal de, 108 - -Enghien, Duc d', 170, 193, 217 - -Enghien, Duchesse d', 170 - -Épinay, Mme d', 224 - -Érard, Sebastien, 270 - -Erasmus, 148 - -Esterhazy, Comte, 69 - -Estrées, Cardinal d', 197 - -Estrées, Duchesse d', 197 - -Estrées, Gabrielle d', 22, 26, 68, 83, 118, 141, 170, 265 - -Estrées, Maréchal d', 83 - -Étiolles, M. d', 233 - -Eudes the Falconer, Bishop of Paris, 96-7, 201 - -Eugénie, Empress, 13, 273 - - -F - -Faure, Félix, Président, 236 - -Favart, 60 - -Fersan, Comte de, 217, 219 - -Fesch, Cardinal, 225 - -Fieschi, 246, 302 - -Flamel, Nicolas, 43, 69, 96 - -Flamel, Pernelle, 69, 96 - -Flandrin, 128, 173, 175, 239 - -Flaubert, 178 - -Florian, 270-1 - -Foucault, 167 - -Fouché, 331 - -Folmon, Comte de, 244 - -Fontenay, Aubert de, 83 - -Fouquet, père et fils, 120 - -Fourcy, de, family, 107 - -Fragonard, 39, 56 - -Francis-Joseph, Emperor, 195 - -François I, 3, 94, 97, 140, 175, 206, 334 - -Franck, César, 308 - -Franklin, Benjamin, 219, 268, 271-2 - -Franque, Simon, 100 - -Franqueville, Comte de, 270 & n. - -Fulbert, Chanoine, 91 - -Fulcon, or Falcon, Comte, 240 - -Funck-Brentano, 118 - -G - -Gabriel, 4, 28, 142, 191, 194, 211 - -Gallièra, Duchesse de, _née_ Brignole, 195, 267 - -Gallifet, Marquis de, 197 - -Gambetta, 165, 170, 219, 225, 264, 322 - -Garcia, Manuel, 226 - -Garlande, Mathilde de, 316 - -Gaston, brother of Louis Treize, 328 - -Gauthier, Marguerite (la Dame aux Camélias), 213 - -Gautier, Théophile, 120, 329 - -Gay, Sophie, 56 - -Genlis, Mme de, 199, 217, 219, 233 - -Géoffrin, Mme, 28 - -Géricault, 60 - -Germain, Bishop of Auxerre, 295 - -Germain, Bishop of Paris, 173 - -Gesvres, Marquis, de, 324 - -Girardon, 138 - -Glasgow, Bishop of, 161 - -Glück, 176 - -Gobelin, Jehan, 251, 252 - -Gobelin, Philibert, 251, 252 - -Goldoni, 58 - -Goncourts, frères de, 178 - -Gondi, Mgr. de, first Archbishop of Paris, 250, 323 - -Gonthière, 239 - -Goujon, 4, 41, 43, 59, 81, 321 - -Gounod, 178, 228 - -Gourmet, 211 - -Goy, 245 - -Gozlin, Bishop of Paris, 186, 342 - -Gracieuse family, 159 - -Grand, Mme, 226 - -Gregory of Tours, 130 - -Grétry, 33, 298-9 - -Greuze, 23 - -Grignan, Mme de, 81 - -Grimaldi family, 228 - -Grimm, 224 - -Gringonneur, Jacquemin, 98 - -Gros, 147 - -Guise, Duc de, 119 - -Guise family, 74 - -Guizot, 45, 207, 211 - - -H - -Halévy, 49, 228 - -Harcourt, Duc d', 200 - -Harduin-Mansart, 200 - -Haudri, Jean, 73 - -Haussmann, Baron, 211 - -Hauteville, Comte d', 238 - -Haüy, Valentin, 192 - -Heine, Heinrich, 180, 213, 227 - -Héloïse, 91 - -Helvetius, 32 - -Henault, Président, 106 - -Henner, 228 - -Henri de Bourbon, 166 - -Henri II, 8, 36, 79, 111, 119, 180, 307 - -Henri III, 340 - -Henri IV, 7, 10, 26, 30, 36, 49, 90, 94, 118, 119, 141, 174, 175, 178, -180, 190, 209, 241, 248, 265, 289, 314, 321, 331, 340, 341 - -Henriette (Henrietta Maria), Queen, 14, 267, 300 - -Henry V of England, 2, 74 - -Henry VI, 90 - -Hérédia, 118 - -Hertford, Marquis of, 226, 230 - -Hoche, Maréchal, 235 - -Hortense, Queen, 205 - -Houdin, 157 - -Hugo, Mme (mère), 153 - -Hugo, Victor, 32, 112, 120, 147, 231, 232, 264, 306, 313 - -Hugues Capet, 257 - -Humboldt, 331 - -Huysmans, 187 - - -I - -Ingres, 171, 331 - -Isabeau de Bavière, Queen, 76, 82 - -Isabey, 226, 229 - -Isore or Isïre, 258 - - -J - -James II, 161 - -James V, 138 - -Jarente, Prior, 111 - -Jaurès, 57 - -Jean, King, 108 - -Jeanne de Navarre, Queen, 142 - -John, King of Bohemia, 39 - -Jonathan, the Jew, 107 - -Jones, Paul, 165, 240-1 - -Joyeuse, Duc de, 26 - -Juigné, Mgr., Archbishop of Paris (1788), 83, 148 - -Julian, 310 - -Julian, Emperor, 138 - -Julienne, Jean, 254 - - -K - -Karr, Alphonse, 54, 233, 286 - -Kernevenoy, 81 - -Klagman, 52 - -Kock, Paul de, 301 - - -L - -Lablache, 226 - -Lachaise, Père, 294 - -Lacordaire, 91 - -La Fayette, 210, 249 - -Lafayette, Mme de, 167 - -Lafayette, Mlle, 267 - -La Fayette-Bailly, 201 - -Lafitte, 229-30 - -Lafitte and Caillard, 236 - -La Fontaine, 56, 198 - -Lamartine, 165, 200, 264-5 - -Lamballe, Princesse de, 53, 110, 246-7, 273, 303, 321 - -Lamotte, Mme, 255 - -Langes, Savalette de, 27, 58 - -Lannes, Maréchal, Duc de Montbello, 197, 335 - -Lantier, Jean, 323 - -La Riboisière, Comtesse, 306 - -Latini, Brunetto, 132 - -Lavoisier, 209 - -Launay, M. de, 78, 123, 124 - -Laurens, J. P., 147, 256 - -Lauzun, 329 - -La Vrillière, 24 - -Law, 30, 31, 63, 72, 102 - -Leblanc, 52 - -Lecouvreur, Adrienne, 172, 196 - -Lebrun, 56 - -Lebrun, architect, 6 - -Le Brun, Charles, 74, 93, 122, 135, 160, 252 - -Lebrun, Mme. (mère), 135 - -Lebrun, Mme Vigée, 56 - -Lebrun, Pierre, 58 - -Legendre, 223 - -Legrand, 197 - -Legras, Mme, 204 - -Lemaire, Charles, 266 - -Lemercier, Népomacène, 166 - -Lemoine, 305 - -Lemoine, Cardinal, 160 - -Lenclos, Ninon de, 53, 82, 84, 122, 236 - -Lenoir, 171 - -Lenormand, Mlle, 165 - -Le Normand d'Étioles, 56 - -Le Nôtre, 10, 11, 213, 326 - -Lepic, Général, 285 - -Leroux, Pierre, 314 - -Lesage, 174, 326 - -Lescot, Pierre, 3, 43, 81, 91 - -Le Tellier, 230 - -Le Vau, 92, 93, 254, 326, 328 - -Lexington, Stephen, Abbé de Clairvaux, 136 - -Ligneri, Jacques de, 81 - -Lisle, Leconte de, 308 - -Lisle, Rouget de, 233 - -Liszt, 224 - -Littré, 167, 180 - -Locré, 84 - -Louis-le-Gros, 35, 96 - -Louis VI, 98 - -Louis VII, 98 - -Louis IX (St. Louis), 5, 39, 45, 47, 73, 90, 110, 112, 136, 137, 177, -184, 185, 191, 209, 241, 250, 252, 323 - -Louis XI, 44, 266, 317 - -Louis XII, 72 - -Louis XIII, 4, 10, 13, 14, 55, 74, 75, 88, 112, 116, 118, 119, 165, 178, -209, 246, 254, 270, 307, 311, 327, 328, 340, 341 - -Louis XIV, 4, 10, 11, 13, 14, 20, 24, 29, 30, 96, 98, 112, 140, 141, -148, 154, 190, 198, 201, 209-10, 213, 256, 294, 300, 301, 311, 314, 321, -329, 331, 332, 341 - -Louis XV, 16, 25, 68, 146, 150, 157, 182, 185, 187, 210, 211, 217, 222, -232, 247, 249, 270, 275, 284, 326, 341 - -Louis XVI, 4-6, 11, 25, 27, 58, 70, 77, 148, 155, 157, 175, 185, 192, -193, 201, 209, 212, 223, 224, 245, 256, 257, 270, 275, 289, 298, 319, -322, 323, 329 - -Louis XVII (the Dauphin), 11, 176, 188, 205, 245 - -Louis XVIII, 12, 52, 71, 202, 210, 221, 315, 319, 340 - -Louis-Philippe 12, 17, 27, 67, 125, 244 - -Louvois, 29, 33 - -Loyola, Ignatius, 141, 148, 279 - -Loyson, Père, 157, 233 - -Lucile, 165 - -Lude, Duc de, 82 - -Lulli, 32, 211 - -Lunette, Père, 132 - -Luxembourg, Duc de (1615), 162 - - -M - -MacMahon, Maréchal, 30 - -"Mademoiselle, La Grande," 329 - -Mailly-Nesle, Marquis de, 331 - -Maine, Duc de, 259, 313 - -Maintenon, Mme de, 77, 82, 104, 320 - -Malesherbes, Lamoignon de, 111 - -Malibran, 53 - -Man in the Iron Mask, 113 - -Mandeville, Mme de, 58 - -"Manon Lescaut," 255, 312 - -Mansart, 29, 113, 120, 326, 331, 332, 339 - -Mansart, Lisle, 197 - -Marat, 18, 39, 185, 206 - -Marcel, Étienne, Prévôt de Paris, 39 Prévôt des Marchands, 2, 49 - -Margot, Queen, _see_ Margaret de Valois - -Marguerite de Provence, Queen, 317 - -Marguerite de Valois, Queen, 116, 170, 172, 176, 200, 206, 270, 331 - -Maria-Theresa, Queen of Hungary, 33, 40, 221 - -Marie (contractor), 343-4 - -Marie-Antoinette, Queen, 11, 28, 40, 110, 174, 175, 210, 212, 223, 227, -270, 272, 334 - -Marie Leczinska, 189 - -Marie l'Égyptienne, 58 - -Marie Louise, Empress, 12, 90, 215, 322 - -Marie de' Medici, Queen, 7, 84, 159, 162, 164, 165, 172, 206, 246, 321, -331, 340 343 - -Marie Stuart, Queen, 58, 90 - -Marie-Thérèse de Savoie, 206 - -Marigny, Poisson de, 329 - -Marillac, Louise de, 237 - -Marion, 83 - -Mars, Mlle, 225 - -Massa, 219 - -Massa, Duc de, 219 - -Massé, Victor, 229 - -Massenet, 167 - -Mathilde, Princesse, 220 - -Mazarin, Cardinal, 51, 100, 246, 330, 331, 332 - -Medici, Catherine de', _see_ Catherine de' Medici - -Medici, Cosmo de', 340 - -Medici, Marie de'Î, _see_ Marie de' Medici - -Méhul, 235 - -Meilhac, 209 - -Meissonier, 224, 322, 328 - -Merrier, Jacques de, 13 - -Meul, Gérard de, Abbé, 164 - -Meung, Jean de, 142, 152 - -Molière, 26, 56, 58, 86, 114, 116, 176, 275, 326 - -Monaco, Princesse de, _née_ Brignole-Salé, 198 - -Monaco-Valentinois, Prince, 205 - -Montansier, Citoyenne, 52, 299 - -Montereau, Pierre de, 47, 66, 173 - -Montespan, Mme de, 188, 314 - -Montesquieu, Maréchal de, 196 - -Montholon, Général, 235 - -Montijo, Comtesse de, 273 - -Montmorency, Comte de, 8 - -Montmorency, Connétable Anne de, 72, 110 - -Montmorency, Connétable Mathieu, his wife and family, 68-9, 316 - -Montmorency family, 187 - -Montmorency-Laval, Marie Louise de, last Abbess of Montmartre, 228, 237 - -Montpensier, Duchesse de, 165 - -Montrésor, Comte de, 79 - -Montyon, 132, 200 - -Monvoisin, Catherine, 59 - -Moreau, Gustave, 228 - -Moreau, Mme, 165 - -Michelet, 148, 167 - -Mignard, 122 - -Mignet, 229 - -Mirabeau, Marquis de, 225 - -Mirabeau, Marquis de (père), 233 - -Mirabeau, Marquise de, 225 - -Miramion, Mme de, 335 - -Miron, 115 - -Miron, François, Prévôt des Marchands, 104-5 - -Moreau, Pierre, 26 - -Moriac, Jules, 228 - -Morlay, Jacques de, Grand Master of the Templars, 49 - -Mornay, Louis de, 53 - -Mozart, 104, 176, 224 - -Murger, 167 - -Musset, Alfred de, 27, 29, 175, 197, 217, 231, 275, 304, 330 - - -N - -Nadaud, Gustave, 269 - -Napoléon I, 6, 12, 17, 18, 20-1, 27, 30, 36, 38, 54, 56, 60, 71, 74, 90, -95, 119, 126, 137, 146, 164, 172, 176, 190, 191-2, 201, 208, 215, 217, -219, 225, 230, 235, 249, 252, 263, 267, 289, 322, 334, 335, 340, 343, -344 - -Napoléon III, 6, 12, 13, 17, 28, 68, 99, 118, 165, 189, 190, 192, 209, -217-18, 222, 230, 234, 264, 267, 272, 278, 285, 286, 298, 321, 337 - -Napoléon, Prince Pierre, 275 - -Necker, 224 - -Nemours, Duc de, 44 - -Nesmond, Président de, 335 - -Ney, Maréchal, 228, 234 - -Nicholas II, Czar, 339 - -Nicolas-le-Jeune, 92 - -Noailles, Cardinal de, Archbishop of Paris, 27 - -Noailles, Maréchal de, 27 - -Nodier, 118 - -Noir, Victor, 275 - -Norfolk, Duke of (1533), 111 - - -O - -Orléans, Duc d', 244 - -Orléans, Duc d' (1407), 41, 82-3, 108 - -Orléans, Duc d' (_circ._ 1844), 277 - -Orléans, Duc d' (Égalité), 14-16, 17, 81, 221, 233 - -Orléans, Duc d' (the Regent), 14, 16, 270 - -Orléans, Duchesse d' (1730), 61 - -Orléans, Duchesse d', mother of Louis-Philippe, 244 - -Orléans, Duchesse douairière d', 305 - -Orléans family, 195 - -Orléans, Gaston d', Duc d'Anjou, 328 - -Orléans, Prince d', 221 - -Ormesson de Noyseau, d', 302 - -Orry, Marc, 174 - -Orsay, d', Prévôt des Marchands 329 - -Orsini, 29, 230 - - -P - -Pacha, 165 - -Paillard, Jeanne de, 269 - -Palatine, Princesse, 167 - -Paris, Comte de, 195 - -Parmentier, 242 - -Pascal, Blaise, 146, 158, 316 - -Pasteur, 313 - -Pépin, 246 - -Périer, Casimir, 196 - -Perrault, the brothers, 161 - -Perrault, Claude, 4, 10 - -Perrault, Président de, 331 - -Philipon, 327 - -Philipon, Manon, _see_ Roland, Mme - -Philippe-Auguste, 2 _passim_ - -Philippe-le-Bel, 2, 82, 106, 142, 268 - -Philippe-le-Long, 96 - -Pichegru, 52, 204 - -Pigalle, 189 - -Pius VII, Pope, 208 - -Poilu inconnu, le, 215 _n._ - -Poitiers, Diane de, 121, 171, 180 - -Pompadour, Mme de, 25, 33, 56, 58, 217, 233, 270, 329 - -Pouce, Paul, 4 - -Popincourt, Sire Jean de, 242 - -Poquelin, Robert, 58 - -Portsmouth, Duchess of, 331 - -Pradier, 199 - -Prince Imperial, the, 12 - -Provence, Comte de (1790), 175, 217, 224, 284 - -Provence, Comtesse de, 175 - - -Q - -Quinquentonne, Rogier de, 57 - - -R - -Rabelais, 113, 116, 151 - -Rachel, 63, 273 - -Racine, 91, 172, 275 - -Raffet, 322 - -Ragois, Abbé, 320 - -Raguse, Duc d', 237 - -Ranelagh, Lord, 270 - -Rebours, Abbé, 279 - -Récamier, Mme de, 52, 56, 174, 188, 210, 224 - -Récamier, M., 174 - -"Reine de Hongrie, la," 40 - -Renan, 175 - -Retz, Cardinal, 76 - -Richard, Mgr., Archbishop of Paris, 196, 201 - -Richelieu, Cardinal, 4, 13-14, 16, 18, 33, 107, 112, 123, 135, 136, 137, -138, 164, 175, 298 - -Richelieu, Duc de, 138, 219 - -Richelieu family, 138 - -Rieux, Jean de, 108 - -Rieux, René de, Bishop, 166 - -Robert-le-Pieux, King, 20, 45 - -Robespierre (brother of Maximilien), 222 - -Robespierre, Mlle, 160 - -Robespierre, Maximilien, 12, 27, 28, 78, 174, 212, 222, 244, 296 - -Rochereau, Général, 257 - -Rochechouart,--, de, Abbess of Montmartre, 228, 233 - -Rodin, 147, 194-5, 313, 314 - -Rohan, Comtes de, 75-6 - -Rohan, Prince de, 74 - -Roland, 240 - -Roland, Mme (_née_ Philipon), 49, 158, 173, 210, 327 - -Rolland, Président, 336 - -Rollin, 140, 158 - -Romanelli, 52 - -Rome, Roi de, 12, 267 - -Ronsard, 151 - -Rosalie, Soeur, 159 - -Rossini, 224 - -Rothschild, 218 - -Rothschild, 249 - -Rothschild family, 218 - -Rouge, Guis de, 259 - -Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 12, 39, 272 - -Rouzet, 244 - -Rude, 215, 309 - - -S - -St. Bernard, 135 - -St. Denis, 232, 278, 279, 280, 301 - -St. Edmond, 153 - -St. Éloi, 113 - -St. Florentin, Comte de, 28 - -St. François de Sales, 165 - -St. Julien, 132 - -St. Just, 218 - -St. Louis, _see_ Louis IX - -St. Martin, 64 - -St-Michel, 135 - -St. Ovide, 245 - -St. Pierre, Bernardin de, 158 - -Saint-Simon, Duc de, 193, 197, 272, 305 - -St. Thomas à Becket, 135 - -St. Vincent-de-Paul, 120, 189, 204, 237, 260 - -Ste-Bathilde, 164 - -Sainte-Beuve, J. de, 182 - -Ste-Croix, 116, 135 - -Ste-Geneviève, 144, 146, 147, 164, 279, 289, 295 - -Ste-Marguerite, 250 - -Ste-Thérèse, Bernard de, Bishop of Babylone, 192, 204 - -Salis, M., 229 - -Salm-Kyrburg, Prince de, 205 - -Sand, George, 66, 153, 167, 178, 184, 226, 275, 314 - -Sanson, 239 - -Sans Peur, Jean, 41, 83, 108 - -Santerre, 249 - -Sarcey, Francisque, 228 - -Sardini, Scipion, 157 - -Sardou, Jules, 153, 180 - -Sauvigny, Berthier de, 78 - -Savoie, Adelaide de, 280 - -Savoie-Carignan, Princesse de, 180 - -Scarron, 77, 79, 84, 104 - -Scarron, Mme, 77, 84, _see also_ Maintenon, Mme de - -Scribe, 227, 232 - -Ségur, Général de, 191 - -Ségur, Marquis de, 308 - -Ségur, Mgr. de, 195 - -Sens, Archbishops of, 116 - -Servandoni, 166, 175 - -Séverin, 128 - -Sévigné, Mme de, 69, 81, 82, 83, 104, 120 - -Sevigné, Marquis de, 120 - -Seymour, Lord, 226 - -Sibour, Mgr., Archbishop of Paris, 239 - -Simon, Jules, 209 - -Simon, Mme, 188 - -Smith, Sidney, 70 - -Sommerard, M. de, 138-40 - -Sorbon, Robert de, 137 - -Soubise, Princesse de, 74 - -Soufflot le Romain, 57, 147, 300 - -Soyecourt, Camille de, _see_ Camille, Soeur - -Spontini, 56 - -Staël, Mme de, 56, 211, 224 - -Stevens, Alfred, 235 - -Strass, 327 - -Stuart family, 267 - -Sue, Eugène, 84, 219 - -Suger, 98 - -Sulli, or Sully, Maurice de, 88, 135, 289, 342 - -Sully, 122 - -Sully, Duc de, 118, 153, 209, 289 - -Swiss Guards, the, 11, 29, 193, 209 - - -T - -Taglioni, 230 - -Talaru, Marquis de, 53 - -Tallard, Maréchal de, 75 - -Talleyrand, 195, 201, 226, 273 - -Talleyrand, Duc de, 230 - -Talleyrand-Périgord, Comte, 233 - -Tallien, 182, 213-14 - -Tallien, Mme, 168, 213-14, 229, 230 - -Talma, 18, 56, 228 - -Talma, Mme, 225 - -Thackeray, W. M., 304 - -Thierry, Amédée, 209 - -Thierry, Augustin, 180, 233 - -Thiers, 226, 265, 273 - -Thiers, Mme, 265 - -Thomas, Ambroise, 226 - -Thorigny, Louis Lambert de, 327 - -Thorigny, Nicolas Lambert de, 93 - -Thorigny, Président Lambert de, 83 - -Tiberius Cæsar, 138 - -Titon, 102 - -Tourgueneff, Ivan, 228 - -Tournon, Cardinal de, 165 - -Triquetti, 208 - -Trudaine, Prévôt des Marchands, 235 - -Turenne, Maréchal de, 78-9, 246 - -Turgot, 188, 200, 328 - -Turgot, Prévôt des Marchands, 197 - -Tussieu, 166 - - -U - -Urban V, Pope, 132 - - -V - -Valentinois, Duc de, Prince de Monaco (1640), 118, 200 - -Valentinois, Duchess de, 39 - -Valois family, 221, 243 - -Vanbernier, Jeanne, 27 - -Van Loo, 175 - -Vaucanson, 64, 244 - -Vaux, Baron de, 285 - -Vaux, Clothilde de, 82 - -Velasquez, 322 - -Vendôme, Duc de, 170, 314 - -Vendôme, Duchesse de, 308 - -Viarmes,--, de, Prévôt des Marchands, 38 - -Victoria, Queen of England, 27 - -Vignole, 112 - -Villars, Général de, 191 - -Villedo, 33 - -Villette, Marquis de, 330-1 - -Villiers, Loys de, 76 - -Viollet le Duc, 90 - -Visconti, 52, 172, 191, 218, 331 - -Vivien, Sire, 54 - -Voltaire, 19, 27, 52, 330, 331, 340 - - -W - -Waldeck-Rousseau, 200 - -Walpole, Charlotte, _see_ Atkins, Mrs. - -Walpole, Horace, 197 - -Washington, George, 266 - -Watteau, 53, 151, 160 - -Wellington, 1st Duke of, 217 - - -Z - -Zamor, 135 - -Ziem, 286 - -Zola, Émile, 56, 227 - - - - -INDEX TO STREETS - -NOTE.--_For Names of Bridges, Historical Buildings and Quays see the -chapters dealing with them._ - - -A - -Abbaye, Rue de l', 172-4 - -Abbé-de-l'Epée, Rue de l', 153 - -Aboukir, Rue d', 54, 55 - -Affre, Rue, 289 - -Aguesseau, Rue d', 218 - -Alexandrie, Rue, 56 - -Aligre, Rue d', 250 - -Ambroise-Paré, Rue, 306 - -Ambroise-Thomas, Rue, 234 - -Amsterdam, Rue, 227 - -Ancienne-Comédie, Rue de l', 177-8 - -Anglais, Rue des, 132 - -Angoulême, Rue d', 242 - -Anjou, Rue d', 210 - -Annonciation, Rue de l', 272 - -Antin, Avenue d', 213 - -Antoine-Carême, Rue, 36 - -Antoine-Dubois, Rue, 185 - -Arbalête, Rue de l', 160 - -Arbre-Sec, Rue de l', 22 - -Arcade, Rue de l', 209 - -Archives, Rue des, 72, 102, 107 - -Argenteuil, Rue d', 32 - -Argout, Rue d', 58 - -Armendiers, Rue des, 161 - -Arquebusiers, Rue des, 303 - -Arras, Rue d', 157 - -Assas, Rue d', 167 - -Assomption, Rue de l', 273 - -Aubriot, Rue, 107 - -Auguste-Blanqui, Boulevard, 312 - -Auguste Comte, Rue, 167 - -Auguste-Vaquerie, Rue, 265 - -Auteuil, Rue d', 275 - -Ave-Maria, Rue, 114 - - -B - -Babylone, Rue de, 192 - -Bac, Rue du, 9, 203, 204, 206, 218 - -Bachaumont, Rue, 58 - -Bagnolet, Rue de, 294 - -Bailly, Rue, 64 - -Balagny, Rue, 276 - -Baltard, Rue, 35 - -Balzac, Rue, 216 - -Banquier, Rue du, 254 - -Barbet de Jouy, Rue, 193 - -Barbes, Boulevard, 288, 306 - -Barbette, Rue, 82 - -Barres, Rue des, 106 - -Basfroi, Rue, 245 - -Bassano, Rue, 214 - -Batignolles, Boulevard des, 309 - -Bauches, Rue des, 272-3 - -Bayard, Rue, 321 - -Bayen, Rue, 277 - -Béarn, Rue de, 84 - -Beaubourg, Rue, 67, 68 _n._, 69, 102 - -Beauce, Rue de, 73 - -Beaujolais, Rue de, 16, 19 - -Beaumarchais, Boulevard, 302-3 - -Beaume, Rue de, 205, 206, 320-1 - -Beauregard, Rue, 58, 59 - -Beautreillis, Rue, 116-17 - -Beaux-Arts, Rue des, 171 - -Bellefond, Rue, 235 - -Belleville, Rue de, 290, 291, 292, 293 - -Belloy, Rue, 265 - -Berger, Rue, 36, 43 - -Bergère, Rue, 233 - -Bernardins, Rue des, 135 - -Berri, Rue de, 219 - -Bertin-Poirée, Rue, 23, 323 - -Berton, Rue, 320 - -Bichat, Rue, 241 - -Bièvre, Rue de la, 135 - -Birague, Rue de, 120 - -Blanche, Rue, 227, 309 - -Blancs-Manteaux, Rue des, 107 - -Bôëtie, Rue de la, 219 - -Boileau, Rue, 275 - -Bois, Rue des, 290 - -Bois-de-Boulogne, Avenue du, 264 - -Bois-le-Vent, Rue, 273 - -Boissière, Rue, 266 - -Boissy d'Anglais, Rue, 211 - -Bonaparte, Rue, 170, 206 - -Bonne-Nouvelle, Boulevard, 300 - -Bons Enfants, Rue des, 13, 24 - -Boucher, Rue, 23 - -Boucheries, Rue des, 304 - -Boucry, Rue, 289 - -Boulainvilliers, Rue de, 272 - -Boulangers, Rue des, 158 - -Bourdonnais, Avenue de la, 201 - -Bourdonnais, Rue des, 23 - -Bourg d'Abbé, Rue, 62 - -Bourgogne, Rue de, 201 - -Boutbrie, Rue, 128 - -Brague, Rue de, 73-4 - -Brantôme, Rue, 69 - -Brêche-aux-loups, Rue de la, 250 - -Bretagne, Rue de, 73 - -Breteuil, Avenue de, 191 - -Brise-Miche, Rue, 98 - -Broca, Rue, 151, 317 - -Brosse, Rue de, 324 - -Bûcherie, Rue de la, 132 - -Bruxelles, Rue de, 227 - -Bruyère, Rue la, 228 - - -C - -Cadet, Rue, 233 - -Caffarelli, Rue de, 73 - -Calvaire, Rue du, 285 - -Cambacères, Rue, 218 - -Cambon, Rue, 28 - -Cambronne, Rue, 260 - -Campo-Formio, Rue de, 312 - -Canivet, Rue, 167 - -Capucines, Boulevard des, 298 - -Capucines, Rue des, 60, 298 - -Cardinal-Lemoine, Rue, 160-1 - -Carmes, Rue des, 140 - -Carmes, Rue Basse des, 140 - -Cascades, Rue des, 293 - -Cassette, Rue, 175 - -Cassini, Rue, 256 - -Castex, Rue, 306 - -Castiglione, Rue, 10, 29 - -Caulaincourt, Rue, 286 - -Caumartin, Rue, 223, 297 - -Censier, Rue, 136 - -Cerisaie, Rue de la, 118 - -Chabrol, Rue de, 237 - -Chaillot, Rue, 214, 266, 273 - -Champs-Elysées, Avenue des, 213-15, 263, 264 - -Chancy, Rue, 245 - -Chanoinesse, Rue, 91 - -Chantereine, Rue, 225 - -Chantres, Rue des, 91 - -Chapelle, Boulevard de la, 310 - -Chapelle, Rue de la, 289 - -Chapon, Rue, 68 - -Chardon-Lagache, Rue, 275 - -Chardonnière, La, Rue Neuve de, 288 - -Charenton, Rue de, 249, 322 - -Charlemagne, Rue, 114 - -Charlot, Rue, 76, 78 - -Charonne, Rue de, 243-4, 245 - -Chat qui Pêche, Rue du, 126, 335 - -Château, Rue du, 259, 313 - -Château d'Eau, Rue du, 239 - -Chateaudun, Rue du, 225 - -Château-Landon, Rue, 310 - -Chaussée d'Antin, Rue de la, 224-5, 297 - -Cherche-Midi, Rue, 186, 313 - -Chevalier de la Barre, Rue, 282 - -Chevreuse, Rue de, 315-16 - -Childebert, Rue, 157 - -Choiseul, Rue de, 60 - -Christine, Rue, 180 - -Ciseaux, Rue des, 304 - -Cité, Rue de la, 86 - -Clef, Rue de la, 157 - -Cléry, Rue, 58 - -Clichy, Avenue de, 276, 288, 309 - -Clichy, Rue de, 227 - -Cloître-St-Merri, Rue, 98 - -Clothilde, Rue, 161 - -Clovis, Rue, 142-3 - -Cloys, Rue des, 288 - -Colbert, Rue, 51, 52 - -Colombe, Rue de la, 91 - -Colisée, Rue de, 219 - -Colonnes, Rue des, 53 - -Comète, Rue de la, 196 - -Commines, Rue de, 85 - -Compans, Rue, 291 - -Convention, Rue de la, 74, 261 - -Copernic, Rue, 265 - -Coq, Avenue du, 225 - -Coquillère, Rue, 33 - -Corneille, Rue, 165 - -Cortot, Rue, 285 - -Cossonnerie, Rue de la, 43 - -Courcelles, Boulevard de, 309 - -Couronnes, Rue des, 293 - -Courtalon, Rue, 36 - -Croissant, Rue du, 56-7 - -Croix-Faubin, Rue, 243 - -Croix-Nivert, Rue de la, 260-1 - -Croix des Petits-Champs, Rue, 25 - -Croix du Roule, Rue de la, 220 - -Croulebarbe, Rue, 252-4 - -Crussol, Rue de, 302 - -Cure, Rue de la, 273 - -Cuvier, Rue, 156 - - -D - -Dames, Rue des, 276 - -Damrémont, Rue, 288 - -Dante, Rue, 132 - -Danton, Rue, 182 - -Darboy, Rue, 241-2 - -Daru, Rue, 220 - -Daubenton, Rue, 160 - -Daunou, Rue, 60 - -Dauphine, Rue, 178 - -Davioud, Rue, 273 - -Debelleyme, Rue, 83-4 - -Deguerry, Rue, 242 - -Demours, Rue, 277 - -Denfert-Rochereau, Rue, 257 - -Desaix, Rue, 261 - -Déchargeurs, Rue des, 36 - -Dussoubs, Rue, 57 - -Deux-Boules, Rue des, 323 - -Didot, Rue, 259 - -Docteur Blanche, Rue de, 273 - -Domat, Rue, 132 - -Dombasle, Rue, 260 - -Dôme, Rue du, 264 - -Dosne, Rue, 265 - -Douai, Rue de, 228 - -Dragon, Rue du, 186 - -Drouot, Rue, 229, 230 - -Duphot, Rue, 29 - -Dupin, Rue, 187 - -Dupleix, Rue, 261 - -Dupuytren, Rue, 185 - -Dutot, Rue, 313 - - -E - -Eaux, Rue des, 272 - -Échaudé, Rue de l', 304 - -Échiquier, Rue de l', 237 - -École, Rue de l', 22 - -École de Médicine, Rue de l', 184 - -Écoles, Rue des, 138 - -Edgar-Quinet, Boulevard, 313 - -Édouard VII, Rue, 298 - -Éginhard, Rue, 114 - -Égout, Rue de l', 305 - -Élysée-des-Beaux-Arts, Rue de, 310 - -Épée-de-Bois, Rue de l', 159 - -Éperon, Rue de l', 182 - -Estrapade, Rue de l', 161 - -Étienne-Marcel, Rue, 39, 57 - -Étuves, Rue des, 102 - -Eugène-Carrière, Rue, 288 - -Eylau, d' Avenue, 265 - - -F - -Fabert, Rue, 196 - -Faubourg Montmartre, Rue du, 232, 299 - -Faubourg Poissonière, Rue du, 233-4 - -Faubourg St. Antoine, Rue du, 246 _sqq._ - -Faubourg St-Denis, Rue du, 236-7 - -Faubourg St-Jacques, Rue, 256, 272 - -Faubourg St-Honoré, Rue, 318 - -Faubourg St-Martin, Rue du, 236, 238 - -Faubourg du Temple, Rue du, 236, 241 - -Fauconnier, Rue du, 116 - -Favart, Rue, 60 - -Fédération, Rue de la, 261 - -Félicien-David, Rue, 274 - -Fer-à-Moulin, Rue du, 157 - -Ferdinand-Duval, Rue, 110 - -Férou, Rue, 167 - -Ferronnerie, Rue de la, 36 - -Feuillantines, Rue des, 153 - -Feydeau, Rue, 53 - -Figuier, Rue du, 115-16 - -Filles-du-Calvaire, Boulevard, 302 - -Filles de St-Thomas, Rue des, 53, 54 - -Flandres, Rue de, 290 - -Fleurus, Rue, 167 - -Foin, Rue du, 84 - -Fontaine, Rue, 310 - -Fontaine, Rue la, 274 - -Fontaine du But, Rue de la, 288 - -Fontaine au Roi, Rue de la, 241 - -Fontaines, Rue des, 72 - -Fossés St-Bernard, Rue des, 156 - -Fouarre, Rue du, 132 - -Four, Rue du, 174 - -Foyatier, Rue, 279 - -François-Miron, Rue, 104, 106, 122 - -Francs-Bourgeois, Rue des, 74, 84, 110 - -Franklin, Rue, 268 - -Friedland, Avenue, 221 - -Frochot, Avenue, 229 - -Froissard, Rue, 85 - -Fromentin, Rue, 310 - - -G - -Gabriel, Avenue, 214 - -Gabrielle, Rue, 285 - -Gaité, Rue de la, 259 - -Galande, Rue, 132 - -Galilée, Rue, 214, 220, 265 - -Garancière, Rue, 166 - -Garibaldi, Boulevard, 314 - -Geoffroy St-Hilaire, Rue, 156 - -Georges-Bizet, Rue, 265-6 - -Germain-Pilon, Rue, 310 - -Girardon, Rue, 286 - -Glacière, Rue de la, 254 - -Gobelins, Avenue des, 254 - -Gobelins, Rue des, 252 - -Gozlin, Rue, 186 - -Grammont, Rue de, 60 - -Grande Armée, Avenue de la, 263, 264 - -Grand Chaumière, Rue de la, 315 - -Grand Prieuré, Rue du, 302 - -Grands-Augustins, Rue de, 180 - -Grange-Batelière, Rue, 231 - -Grange-aux-Belles, Rue de la, 240 - -Gravilliers, Rue des, 68 - -Grenelle, Boulevard de, 314 - -Grenelle, Rue de, 196, 198 - -Grenier-St-Lazare, Rue, 69 - -Guénégaud, Rue, 177, 332 - -Guersant, Rue, 277 - -Guillemites, Rue des, 108 - - -H - -Hachette, Rue de la, 126 - -Hallé, Rue, 258 - -Halles, Rue des, 36 - -Hameau, Rue du, 261 - -Hanovre, Rue de, 60 - -Harlay, Rue de, 327 - -Haudriettes, Rue des, 73 - -Haussmann, Boulevard, 317-18 - -Hautefeuille, Rue, 182 - -Hauteville, Rue d', 238 - -Haxo, Rue, 243, 292 - -Hazard, Rue du, 33 - -Helder, Rue de, 298 - -Henner, Rue, 228 - -Henri-Monnier, Rue, 229 - -Henri IV, Boulevard, 303 - -Henry-Martin, Avenue, 267 - -Hirondelle, Rue de l', 181, 307 - -Hoche, Avenue, 221 - -Honoré-Chevalier, Rue, 175 - -Hospitalières-St-Gervais, Rue des, 110 - -Hôpital, Boulevard de l', 311-12 - -Hôtel Colbert, Rue de l', 132 - -Hôtel de Ville, Rue de l', 106 - - -I - -Iéna, Avenue d', 265 - -Innocents, Rue des, 43 - -Invalides, Boulevard des, 192, 314 - -Irlandais, Rue des, 148 - -Italiens, Boulevard des, 60, 298-9 - - -J - -Jacob, Rue, 172 - -Jardins, Rue des, 116 - -Jarente, Rue de, 111 - -Jean-de-Beauvais, Rue, 140 - -Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Rue, 39 - -Jean-Lantier, Rue, 23, 323 - -Jeûneurs, Rue des, 57 - -Jour, Rue du, 38 - -Jouy, Rue de, 106-7 - - -K - -Kellermann, Boulevard, 319 - -Keppler, Rue, 265 - -Kléber, Avenue, 265 - - -L - -Laborde, Rue de, 222 - -Lacépède, Rue, 159 - -Lafayette, Rue, 239 - -Lafitte, Rue, 229-30 - -Lamarck, Rue, 286 - -Lanneau, Rue, 142 - -Laplace, Rue, 142 - -Latran, Rue de, 140 - -Lauriston, Rue, 266 - -Lavandières, Rue des, 323 - -Lavandières-Ste-Opportune, Rue des, 23 - -Le Brun, Rue, 254 - -Lecourbe, Rue, 261 - -Legendre, Rue, 277 - -Lekain, Rue, 272 - -Léon-Cosnard, Rue, 277 - -Lepic, Rue, 285 - -Lesdiguières, Rue, 118 - -Lévis, Rue de, 276-7 - -Lhomond, Rue, 148 - -Lilas, Rue des, 291 - -Lille, Rue de, 205, 206 - -Lingerie, Rue de la, 36 - -Linné, Rue, 156 - -Lions, Rue des, 116 - -Lombards, Rue des, 42, 102 - -Longchamp, Rue de, 266 - -Louis-Blanc, Rue, 240 - -Louis-le-Grand, Rue, 60 - -Louvre, Rue du, 33 - -Lowenthal, Avenue de, 191 - -Lubeck, Rue de, 266 - -Lune, Rue de la, 59, 300 - -Lutèce, Rue de, 49, 86 - -Luxembourg, Rue du, 167 - - -M - -MacMahon, Avenue, 277 - -Madame, Rue, 174 - -Madeleine, Boulevard de la, 297 - -Magenta, Boulevard, 306 - -Mail, Rue du, 56 - -Maine, Avenue du, 259 - -Maire, Rue au, 68 - -Maistre, Rue de, 288 - -Maître-Albert, Rue, 135 - -Malakoff, Avenue, 265 - -Malesherbes, Boulevard, 317, 318 - -Malher, Rue, 110 - -Malte, Rue de, 281 - -Marais, Rue des, 238-9 - -Marboeuf, Rue, 214 - -Marcadet, Rue, 286 - -Marceau, Avenue, 221, 266-7 - -Mare, Rue de la, 293 - -Marie-Stuart, Rue, 58 - -Martignac, Rue de, 196 _sqq._ - -Martyrs, Rue des, 232, 278-9 - -Massillon, Rue, 91 - -Mathurins, Rue des, 223 - -Matignon, Avenue, 213 - -Matignon, Rue, 214, 219 - -Maubeuge, Rue, 225 - -Maure, Rue du, 69 - -Mazarine, Rue, 176 - -Mazet, Rue, 178 - -Ménilmontant, Boulevard de, 319 - -Ménilmontant, Rue, 292-3 - -Meslay, Rue, 66 - -Meyerbeer, Rue, 224 - -Mézières, Rue de, 174-5 - -Michel-le-Comte, Rue, 69 - -Michodière, Rue de la, 60 - -Mignon, Rue, 182 - -Minimes, Rue des, 84 - -Miromesnil, Rue, 218 - -Mitre, Rue de la, 285 - -Moines, Rue des, 277 - -Molière, Rue, 32 - -Molitor, Rue, 275 - -Monceau, Rue de, 221 - -Mondétour, Rue, 36 - -Monge, Rue, 157 - -Monnais, Rue de la, 22-3 - -Monsieur, Rue, 193 - -Monsieur-le-Prince, Rue, 185, 307 - -Montagne Ste-Généviève, Rue de la, 144 - -Montaigne, Avenue, 213 - -Montaigne, Rue, 219 - -Montalivet, Rue, 218 - -Montesquieu, Rue de, 19, 24 - -Montholon, Rue de, 235 - -Montmartre, Boulevard, 299 - -Montmartre, Rue, 40, 54, 57 - -Montmorency, Rue de, 68-9 - -Montorgueil, Rue, 40, 59 - -Montparnasse, Boulevard de, 314 - -Montparnasse, Rue du, 314-15 - -Montpensier, Rue de, 16, 19 - -Mont-Thabor, Rue du, 29 - -Montreuil, Rue de, 245 - -Moreau, Rue, 250 - -Motte-Picquet, Avenue de la, 191, 192 - -Mouffetard, Rue, 149-51 - -Moulin-Vert, Rue du, 259 - -Mozart, Avenue de, 273 - -Muette, Chaussée de la, 269-70 - -Muse, Petit, Rue du, 118 - -Musset, Rue de, 275 - - -N - -Navarre, Rue de, 158 - -Nesle, Rue de, 176-7, 334 - -Nevers, Rue de, 177, 334 - -Nicolas-Flamel, Rue, 96 - -Nicole, Rue, 257 - -Nonnains d'Hyères, Rue des, 324 - -Normandie, Rue de, 78 - -Norvins, Rue, 285 - -Notre-Dame de Bonne-Nouvelle, Rue, 59 - -Notre Dame, Rue du Cloître, 91 - -Notre-Dame de Lorette, Rue, 229 - -Notre-Dame de la Recouvrance, 59 - -Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, Rue, 54 - -Nouvelle, Rue, 227 - - -O - -Opéra, Avenue de l', 32, 211 - -Orfèvres, Rue des, 23 - -Orléans, Avenue d', 258 - -Orme, Rue de l', 290 - -Ormesson, Rue d', 111 - -Ornano, Boulevard, 288, 306 - -Ours, Rue aux, 62, 63 - -P - -Paix, Rue de la, 60 - -Palais, Boulevard du, 49, 306 - -Palatine, Rue, 166 - -Panoyaux, Rue des, 319 - -Paon Blanc, Rue du, 106 - -Papin, Rue, 62 - -Paradis, Rue de, 237 - -Parc-Royal, Rue du, 79 - -Parcheminerie, Rue de la, 128 - -Parmentier, Avenue, 242 - -Pas de la Mule, Rue du, 120 - -Pasquier, Rue, 209 - -Passy, Rue du, 269 - -Pasteur, Boulevard, 313 - -Pastourelle, Rue, 73 - -Patriarches, Rue des, 159 - -Pavée, Rue, 110-11 - -Payenne, Rue, 82 - -Péletier, Rue le, 223, 229, 230 - -Pelleport, Rue, 292 - -Penthieu, Rue, 219 - -Penthièvre, Rue de, 218 - -Pepinière, Rue de la, 222 - -Perchamps, Rue des, 274 - -Perche, Rue du, 77, 78 - -Perle, Rue de la, 83 - -Pernelle, Rue, 96 - -Perrault, Rue, 22 - -Perrée, Rue, 73 - -Petits-Carreaux, Rue des, 59 - -Petit-Champs, Rue des, 51 - -Petits-Pères, Rue des, 55 - -Petit-Pont, Rue du, 342 - -Picardie, Rue de, 73 - -Picpus, Rue, 247-9 - -Pierre-Bullet, Rue, 239 - -Pierre-au-lard, Rue, 98 - -Pierre-Levée, Rue, 241 - -Pierre-Nicole, Rue, 316 - -Pigalle, Rue, 227 - -Pirouette, Rue, 43 - -Pitié, Rue de la, 160 - -Plantes, Rue des, 258 - -Plomet, Rue, 261 - -Poissonnière, Rue, 59 - -Poissonières, Boulevard, 299 - -Poissonniers, Rue des, 288 - -Poissy, Rue de, 136 - -Poitou, Rue de, 77-8 - -Pompe, Rue de la, 269 - -Pont-au-Choux, Rue, 84, 302 - -Pont-Neuf, Rue du, 23, 36 - -Pont de Lodi, Rue, 180 - -Pontoise, Rue, 136 - -Popincourt, Rue, 242 - -Port-Royal, Boulevard de, 314, 316 - -Pôt-de-fer, Rue, 151 - -Poteau, Rue du, 288 - -Poulletier, Rue, 92 - -Poussin, Rue, 273-4 - -Pré-St-Gervais, Rue, 291 - -Prêcheurs, Rue des, 43 - -Prêtres-St-Séverin, Rue de, 127 - -Prévôt, Rue du, 115 - -Procession, Rue de la, 260 - -Provence, Rue de, 224 - -Puits de l'Ermite, Rue du, 159 - -Pyramides, Rue des, 32 - -Pyrénées, Rue des, 293 - - -Q - -Quatre-Fils, Rue des, 76 - -Quatre-Septembre, Rue du, 53, 54, 56 - -Quincampoix, Rue, 62-3, 102 - - -R - -Rachel, Avenue, 309 - -Racine, Rue, 184 - -Radziwill, Rue, 24 - -Raffet, Rue, 273 - -Rambuteau, Rue, 64, 67, 72 - -Rameau, Rue de, 52 - -Ranelagh, Avenue du, 270 - -Ranelagh, Rue du, 270 - -Raspail, Boulevard, 305-6, 313 - -Rataud, Rue, 148 - -Ravignan, Rue, 285 - -Raynouard, Rue, 270 - -Réaumur, Rue, 64, 73 - -Regard, Rue du, 187 - -Remparts, Rue Basse des, 297 - -Remusat, Rue de, 274 - -Renard, Rue de, 68 n. - -Rennes, Rue de, 186 - -Reuilly, Rue de, 249 - -Reynie, Rue de la, 98 - -Ribéra, Rue de, 273 - -Richard Lenoir, Boulevard, 311 - -Richelieu, Rue de, 52, 53 - -Richer, Rue, 233 - -Rivoli, Rue de, 10, 13, 21, 25-6, 28, 33, 96, 102 - -Rochechouart, Boulevard de, 310 - -Rochechouart, Rue de la, 228, 233 - -Rocher, Rue de, 221-2 - -Roi de Sicile, Rue du, 110 - -Rollin, Rue, 158 - -Roquette, Rue de la, 243 - -Rosiers, Rue des, 108, 110 - -Rotrou, Rue, 165 - -Roule, Rue du, 23 - -Royale, Rue, 211 - -Royer-Collard, Rue, 308 - -Rubens, Rue, 312 - -Ruisseau, Rue du, 288 - - -S - -St-Ambroise, Rue, 242 - -St-André-des-Arts, Rue, 178 - -St-Antoine, Rue, 78 - -St-Augustin, Rue, 53, 102 - -St-Benoît, Rue, 174 - -St-Bernard, Rue, 245 - -St-Bon, Rue, 96 - -St-Claude, Rue, 84 - -St-Denis, Boulevard, 59, 300-1 - -St-Denis, Rue, 41, 43 - -St-Didier, Rue, 264 - -St-Dominque, Rue, 196, 198-9, 305 - -St-Eleuthère, Rue, 279, 284 - -St-Fiacre], Rue, 57, 299, 300 - -St-Florentin, Rue, 28 - -St-Georges, Rue, 229 - -St-Germain, Boulevard, 198, 203, 206, 304, 305 - -St-Germain-l'Auxerrois, Rue, 24 - -St-Gilles, Rue, 84 - -St-Honoré, Rue, 13, 20, 21, 25 _sqq.,]_ 31, 73 - -St-Jacques, Boulevard, 313 - -St-Jacques, Rue, 130, 140, 141, 152 _sqq._ - -St-Joseph, Rue, 56 - -St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Rue, 130 - -St-Lazare, Rue, 225 - -St-Lazare-en-l'Isle, Rue, 92-3 - -St-Marc, Rue, 53 - -St-Martin, Boulevard, 301 - -St-Martin, Rue, 63-4, 66, 96, 98, 100 - -St-Maur, Rue, 241 - -St-Médard, Rue, 151 - -St-Michel, Boulevard, 306-7 - -St-Ouen, Avenue, 288 - -St-Paul, Rue, 112-14, 116, 187 - -St-Placide, Rue, 187 - -St-Roch, Rue, 10, 13, 31-2 - -St-Romain, Rue, 187 - -St-Rustique, Rue, 284-5 - -St-Sauveur, Rue, 58 - -St-Séverin, Rue, 126-8 - -St-Sulpice, Rue, 176 - -St-Thomas-d'Aquin, Rue, 305 - -St-Victor, Rue, 135 - -St-Vincent, Rue, 282 - -Ste-Anne, Rue, 32 - -Ste-Barbe, Rue, 59 - -Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, Rue, 107 - -Ste-Hyacinthe, Rue de, 31 - -Saintonge, Rue, 78 - -Saints-Pères, Rue des, 198, 206, 305 - -Santé, Rue de la, 256 - -Saules, Rue des, 285 - -Saulmier, Rue, 233 - -Saussaies, Rue des, 218 - -Savies, Rue de, 293 - -Scipion, Rue, 157 - -Sébastopol, Boulevard, 42, 62, 306 - -Séguier, Rue, 181-2 - -Ségur, Avenue de, 191 - -Seine, Rue de, 176 - -Sentier, Rue du, 56 - -Serpente, Rue, 182 - -Servandoni, Rue, 166 - -Sevigné, Ruede, 81, 102, 110, 111 - -Sèvres, Rue de, 188-9, 206, 260, 313 - -Simon-le-Franc, Rue, 100 - -Solférino, Rue, 199 - -Source, Rue de la, 273 - -Sourdière, Rue de la, 31 - -Stanislas, Rue, 315 - -Strasbourg, Boulevard de, 306 - -Strasbourg, Rue de, 238 - -Suffren, Avenue, 261 - -Suger, Rue, 182 - -Sully, Boulevard, 304 - -Surène, Rue de, 210 - - -T - -Tâcherie, Rue de la, 95, 324 - -Tardieu, Rue, 279 - -Taille-pain, Rue, 98 - -Taitbout, Rue, 226 - -Temple, Boulevard du, 301 - -Temple, Rue du, 69, 72, 74, 102 - -Temple, Rue Vielle-du-, 76, 97, 102, 108-10 - -Ternes, Avenue des, 277 - -Théophile, Gautier, Rue, 274 - -Thérèse, Rue, 33 - -Thorel, Rue, 59 - -Thorigny, Rue de, 83 - -Thouars, Petit, Rue du, 72 - -Thouin, Rue, 161 - -Tilleuls, Avenue des, 286 - -Tiquetonne, Rue, 57 - -Tombe-Issoire, Rue de la, 258 - -Tour, Rue de la, 267-8, 269 - -Tour d'Auvergne, Rue de la, 232-3 - -Tour des Dames, Rue de la, 228 - -Tour Maubourg, Boulevard de la, 192 - -Tournelles, Rue des, 84, 112, 122 - -Tournon, Rue, 165 - -Tourville, Avenue de, 191 - -Trésor, Rue du, 108 - -Trocadéro, Avenue du, _see_ Wilson, Avenue - -Trois-Bornes, Rue des, 242 - -Trois-Portes, Rue des, 132 - -Tronchet, Rue, 209, 223 - -Truanderie, Grande, Rue de la, 44 - -Trudaine, Avenue, 235 - -Turbigo, Rue, 41, 62, 67, 72 - -Turenne, Rue de, 74, 78, 84 - - -U - -Université, Rue de l', 196, 199 _sqq._, 308 - -Ursins, Rue des, 91 - -Uzès, Rue d', 58 - - -V - -Val-de-Grâce, Rue du, 154, 257 - -Valette, Rue, 142 - -Valois, Rue de, 16, 18 - -Vanves, Rue de, 259 - -Varennes, Rue de, 192, 193, 194-6 - -Vaugirard, Boulevard de, 313 - -Vaugirard, Rue, 13, 164, 167, 169, 170, 260 - -Vauvilliers, Rue, 38 - -Vauvin, Rue, 315 - -Velasquez, Avenue, 318 - -Venise, Rue de, 100, 102 - -Ventadour, Rue, 33 - -Verneuil, Rue de, 205, 206 - -Verrerie, Rue de la, 97-8 - -Versailles, Avenue de, 275 - -Vertbois, Rue, 66 - -Vertus, Rue des, 68 - -Viarnes, Rue de, 38 - -Victor-Massé, Rue, 228-9 - -Vicq d'Aziz, Rue, 319 - -Victoire, Rue de la, 225-6 - -Victor-Hugo, Avenue, 264 - -Vieuville, Rue la, 285 - -Vieux-Chemin, Rue, 285 - -Vieux-Colombier, Rue du, 174 - -Vignes, Rue des, 271-2 - -Vignon, Rue, 224 - -Villars, Avenue de, 191 - -Ville l'Évêque, Rue de la, 210-11 - -Ville-Neuve, Rue de la, 59 - -Villedo, Rue, 33 - -Villette, Boulevard de la, 318-19 - -Villehardouin, Rue, 84 - -Villiers, Avenue de, 277 - -Vineuse, Rue, 268 - -Visconti, Rue, 171-2 - -Vivienne, Rue, 51, 54 - -Voie-Verte, Rue de la, 258 - -Volney, Rue, 60 - -Volta, Rue de, 68 - -Vrillière, Rue la, 24 - - -W - -Wagram, Avenue, 216, 221, 277 - -Washington, Rue, 220 - -Wilhem, Rue, 274 - -Wilson, Avenue, 267 - - -Y - -Yvon de Villarceau, Rue, 265 - - -Z - -Zacharie, Rue, 126, 335 - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[A] The pictures have been arranged on a different plan since their -return to the palace after the war. - -[B] Part of Rue de Beaubourg, Rue du Renard, and other old streets here -are soon to disappear, their area transformed into a wide new avenue. - -[C] Bombs worked havoc here in the last year of the Great War -(1914-1918). - -[D] The carting away of these vestiges has, we hear, just been decreed. - -[E] On the Peace Fête, July 14th, 1919, the Arènes were arranged -as a theatre, and the performance of a classical play, "Le Cid," -took place on the spot where wild beasts had fought of yore; while -twentieth-century Frenchmen sat on the very stone seats whereon had sat -Romans and men of primitive Gallic tribes in the earliest days of the -history of Paris and of France. - -[F] On July 14th, 1919, the French Army and contingents from the armies -of the Allies, victorious after the dread war which had raged since -August, 1914, passed in triumphal procession beneath the Arch, and -the chains which, since 1871, had barred its passage, were taken away -for good. On November 11th, when the "unknown soldier" was buried in -Westminster Abbey, the "_poilu inconnu_" was laid beneath the Arc de -Triomphe, and is now buried there. - -[G] Le comte de Franqueville died in January, 1920. - -[H] It was flooded again in 1920. - -[I] It was recently demolished to be replaced by a suspension-bridge in -order to leave the river free for navigation. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -here in invitation of the Rotonde=> here in imitation of the Rotonde {pg -270} - -Demoulins=> Desmoulins {pg 17} - -King Jerôme=> King Jérôme {pg 17} - -Sebastopol=> Sébastopol {pg 42} - -Sophie Arnoult=> Sophie Arnould {pg 60} - -Rue Jean-de-Beauvias=> Rue Jean-de-Beauvais {pg 140} - -Aqueduc d'Arcueil brought water from Rangis=> Aqueduc d'Arcueil brought -water from Rungis {pg 152} - -Rue de l'Abbé-de-l'Epée=> Rue de l'Abbé-de-l'Épée {pg 153} - -restauraunt Lapérouse => restaurant Lapérouse {pg 180} - -days of unparalled warfare=> days of unparalleled warfare {pg 190} - -cut if off from surrounding buildings=> cut it off from surrounding -buildings {pg 218} - -St-Marguerite=> Ste-Marguerite {pg 245} - -patronage of the comte de Province=> patronage of the comte de Provence -{pg 284} - -its euphonius present name=> its euphonious present name {pg 293} - -Aubriot, Prêvot de Paris (13th century), 107=> Aubriot, Prévôt de Paris -(13th century), 107 {index} - -Bourbon-Condè, Mlle. de, Abbesse de Remiremont, 193 Bourbon-Condé, Mlle. -de, Abbesse de Remiremont, 193 {index} - -Enghien, Duc de, 170, 193, 217=> Enghien, Duc d', 170, 193, 217 {index} - -Enghien, Duchesse de, 170=> Enghien, Duchesse d', 170 {index} - -Estrées, Duchesse de, 197=> Estrées, Duchesse d', 197 {index} - -Isore or Isire, 258=> Isore or Isïre, 258 {index} - -Marie de' Medici, Queen=> Marie de' Medicis, Queen {index} - -Monvoisin, Cathérine, 59=> Monvoisin, Catherine, 59 {index} - -Musset, Alfred de, 27, 29, 175, 197, 217, 231, 275, 204, 330=> Musset, -Alfred de, 27, 29, 175, 197, 217, 231, 275, 304, 330 {index} - -Orléans, Duc de (_circ._ 1844), 277=> Orléans, Duc d' (_circ._ 1844), -277 {index} - -Paillard, Jeanne d', 269=> Paillard, Jeanne de, 269 {index} - -Ste-Généviève, 144, 146, 147, 164, 279, 289, 295=> Ste-Geneviève, 144, -146, 147, 164, 279, 289, 295 {index} - -Sevigné=> Sévigné {index} - -Thierry, Amedée, 209=> Thierry, Amédée, 209 {index} - -Antoine, Dubois, Rue, 185=> Antoine-Dubois, Rue, 185 {index} - -Böêtie, Rue de la, 219=> Bôëtie, Rue de la, 219 {index} - -Banquier, Rue de, 254=> Banquier, Rue du, 254 {index} - -Buonaparte, Rue, 170, 206=> Bonaparte, Rue, 170, 206 {index} - -Carmes, Rue Basse de, 140=> Carmes, Rue Basse des, 140 {index} - - -Napoleon=> Napoléon {numerous instances} - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Historic Paris, by Jetta S. 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