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diff --git a/42706-h/42706-h.htm b/42706-h/42706-h.htm index 3a772ae..0b8b60b 100644 --- a/42706-h/42706-h.htm +++ b/42706-h/42706-h.htm @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> Across America, by James F. Rusling--A Project Gutenberg eBook. @@ -167,46 +167,7 @@ div.fn { </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Across America, by James F. Rusling - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Across America - The Great West and the Pacific Coast - -Author: James F. Rusling - -Release Date: May 13, 2013 [EBook #42706] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACROSS AMERICA *** - - - - -Produced by Douglas L. Alley, III, Charlene Taylor and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42706 ***</div> <div class="figcenter" > <a name="cover.jpg" id="cover.jpg"></a> @@ -522,7 +483,7 @@ Sunsets.—A particularly fine one.</td> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> <td class="c2">The Platte Valley in general.—Its Features and Resources.—The -Platte River itself.—The Cañon Cedars.—Want of Timber.—Costly +Platte River itself.—The Cañon Cedars.—Want of Timber.—Costly Fuel, Grain, etc. at Fort Sedgwick.—Scenery of the Plains generally.—Buffalo and their Range.—A Ride after Antelope.—Lost on the Plains.—Buffalo Trails.—The Settlers @@ -573,7 +534,7 @@ Denver.—Miners Slang.—"You Bet."</td> Garland.—Rumors of Indians.—A Stormy Divide.—"Dirty Woman's Ranch."—Castle Rock.—Buttes.—Monument Creek.—Garden of the Gods.—Pike's Peak.—Soda Springs.—Colorado -City.—Cañon City.—<i>Fontaine qui Bouilli.</i>—Irrigation.—Pueblo.—The +City.—Cañon City.—<i>Fontaine qui Bouilli.</i>—Irrigation.—Pueblo.—The Arkansas, Greenhorn, and Huerfano, and their Valleys.—Mexican Laborers.—Hincklin's Ranch.—Sangre del Christo Pass.—Views from Summit.—Descent into San Luis Park.—Sangre @@ -662,9 +623,9 @@ Laclede.—A Driver's Opinion of Bitter Creek.—Green River.—Chur Butte.—Rocky Mountain Stories.—Stage-coaching Philosophically Considered.—Something about Smoking.—A Mustang Team and a Runaway.—Fort Bridger and Judge Carter.—Sage-hens.—Marmion -and the Bible in a Cabin.—Echo Cañon.—Mormon +and the Bible in a Cabin.—Echo Cañon.—Mormon Campaign, 1857-8.—Weber Valley.—Mormons.—Parley's -Cañon.—Salt Lake City.—A Hearty Sleep.</td> +Cañon.—Salt Lake City.—A Hearty Sleep.</td> <td class="c3"><a href="#Page_143">143</a>-<a href="#Page_163">163</a></td> </tr> <tr><td> </td></tr> @@ -755,19 +716,19 @@ Instanter.</td> </tr> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> - <td class="center" colspan="2"><i>Salt Lake to Boisè City.</i></td> + <td class="center" colspan="2"><i>Salt Lake to Boisè City.</i></td> </tr> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> <td class="c2">Ben Holliday again.—His Great Stage Lines.—Wells, Fargo & Co.—Profits and Losses.—His Appearance and Character.—Off for the Columbia.—Great Salt Lake.—Brigham Young's Islands and -Cañons.—Hot Springs.—Ogden City.—Bishop West.—Joseph +Cañons.—Hot Springs.—Ogden City.—Bishop West.—Joseph Young.—Brigham City.—A Ute Brave.—Ute Squaws.—Brigham Young's Indian Policy.—Bear River.—The Country generally.—Bad -Water.—Malàde Station.—Indians and Wolves.—Snake +Water.—Malà de Station.—Indians and Wolves.—Snake River.—Subterranean Stream and Cascade.—Great American -Falls.—Barren Country.—Valley of the Boisè.—The Ride generally.—Square +Falls.—Barren Country.—Valley of the Boisè.—The Ride generally.—Square Meals.—Mr. Superintendent Halsey.—A Live Man.</td> <td class="c3"><a href="#Page_206">206</a>-<a href="#Page_222">222</a></td> @@ -780,13 +741,13 @@ Man.</td> </tr> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> - <td class="center" colspan="2"><i>Boisè City to the Columbia.</i></td> + <td class="center" colspan="2"><i>Boisè City to the Columbia.</i></td> </tr> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> - <td class="c2">Idaho.—Boisè City.—Miners.—Saloons.—Specie and "Dust" <i>vs.</i> + <td class="c2">Idaho.—Boisè City.—Miners.—Saloons.—Specie and "Dust" <i>vs.</i> Greenbacks.—John Chinaman.—An Idaho Dogberry <i>vs.</i> Judge -Lynch.—Idaho generally.—Fort Boisè.—A Lucky Paymaster.—"Swinging +Lynch.—Idaho generally.—Fort Boisè.—A Lucky Paymaster.—"Swinging Round the Circle."—Off for the Columbia.—Burnt River and Powder River and their Valleys.—Snake River again.—Farewell Bend.—Steamboating on the Snake.—Bituminous @@ -820,7 +781,7 @@ Steam Navigation Company.—The Columbia and its<span class="pagenum"><a nam Tributaries.—Indians.—"Calico" Horses.—Celilo.—Railroad Portages.—Shooting the Rapids in a Steamboat.—The Dalles.—Upper Cascades.—Lower Cascades.—Wild and Picturesque -River Scenery.—Cascade Mountains.—Cañon of the Columbia.—Castle +River Scenery.—Cascade Mountains.—Cañon of the Columbia.—Castle Rock.—Mount Hood.—Hood from the Columbia.—Quick Changes of Climate.—Coast Region and Rains.—Fellow-passengers.</td> <td class="c3"><a href="#Page_250">250</a>-<a href="#Page_260">260</a></td> @@ -983,7 +944,7 @@ Thermometer at Yuma.—Yuma Indians.—Old Pasquol.—Good Missionary Ground.—Gov. McCormick, etc.—"Outfit."—Off for Tucson.—Gila City.—The Gila itself.—General Scenery.—Gila Bottoms.—Bunch-grass and Mesquite Trees.—Arizona -Settlers.—Gila Bend.—Maricopa Desert.—A Dangerous Cañon.—Painted +Settlers.—Gila Bend.—Maricopa Desert.—A Dangerous Cañon.—Painted Rocks.—The Country generally.—Big Cactus.—Maricopa and Pimo Indians.—Well-to-do Aborigines—Indian Traders.—Pimo Wigwams.—Our then Indian Policy.—Good @@ -1035,7 +996,7 @@ Bridges Wanted.</td> <td class="c2">Wickenburg.—The Vulture Mine.—A Fine Quartz-mill.—A Valuable Mining Property.—San Francisco Mountains.—Singular Roads.—Skull Valley.—Sparse Population.—Apaches and Yavapais.—Bell's -Cañon.—Indian Attacks generally.—The Intervening +Cañon.—Indian Attacks generally.—The Intervening Country.—Ancient Ruins and Broken Pottery.—A Huge Acequia.—Work for Antiquarians.—Good Bottoms along the Salado and Gila.—A Railroad Much Needed.</td> @@ -1060,7 +1021,7 @@ Gold and Silver Mines.—Her Quartz-mills Idle.—Mining Operations of Territory.—The Indians.—The Apaches generally.—Their Brave Exploits.—Good Horse-thieves.—Their Wise Strategy.—Their Captive Children.—A Raid near Prescott.—Their -Pursuit to Hell Cañon and beyond.—Gen. Irvin Gregg.—A +Pursuit to Hell Cañon and beyond.—Gen. Irvin Gregg.—A Fight with the Apaches.—A Dangerous District.—A Typical Emigrant.—Aztec Remains.—A Fine Wild Turkey.—Fort Whipple.—A Costly Post.—An Expensive Flag-staff, etc.—Hail, @@ -1080,7 +1041,7 @@ Cavalry Gregg!</td> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> <td class="c2">Off for Los Angelos.—Williamson's Valley.—Wild Game.—Juniper -Mountain.—Rock Springs.—Cottonwood Cañon.—Beale's +Mountain.—Rock Springs.—Cottonwood Cañon.—Beale's Springs.—A Desolate Country.—Sage-brush and Grease-wood.—Want of Water.—Indians again.—Sublime Scenery.—Union Pass.—Rio Colorado again.—Mojave Indians.—Our Indian Policy @@ -1205,7 +1166,7 @@ Francisco.</td> </tr> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> - <td class="c2">Ride to San Josè.—Off for New York.—The Weather.—Delightful + <td class="c2">Ride to San Josè.—Off for New York.—The Weather.—Delightful Voyaging.—The Constitution.—Fellow-passengers.—Cape St. Lucas.—Manzanillo.—Acapulco.—A Mexican Seaport.—"Greasers."—Good Divers.—Sights Ashore.—The Cathedral.—The @@ -1413,7 +1374,7 @@ those of the Mississippi anywhere below Cairo, and its bottom lands seemed unsurpassed in fertility.</p> <p>Leavenworth, on the Missouri, where it takes a final -bend north, was still the entrepôt for New Mexico and +bend north, was still the entrepôt for New Mexico and the plains. Omaha had already tapped the Colorado and Utah trade and travel, and has since mainly absorbed them, by the completion of the Union Pacific railroad. @@ -1711,7 +1672,7 @@ Pacific. Hitherto the railroad had still served to connect us with the East. But now we bade good-bye to cars and locomotives, and did not see them again until we heard their tramp and whistle two thousand miles -away, in the cañon of the Columbia. "Afloat," I think,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +away, in the cañon of the Columbia. "Afloat," I think,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> is the only right word for the Plains; because the first impression they give you is that of the sea, so vast is their extent, and even the wagons that cross them—huge, @@ -2155,7 +2116,7 @@ the poet's brain when he wrote:</p> <span class="i0">Citadels throbbing in their own fierce light,<br /></span> <span class="i0">Tall spires that came and went like spires of flame,<br /></span> <span class="i0">Cliffs quivering with fire-snow, and peaks<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Of piléd gorgeousness, and rocks of fire<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of piléd gorgeousness, and rocks of fire<br /></span> <span class="i0">A-tilt and poised, bare beaches, crimson seas."<br /></span> </div></div> @@ -2242,11 +2203,11 @@ and furnished almost the only supply of fuel to passing emigrants and travellers. The settled residents there, however, the station-keepers and ranchmen, depended more on the stunted cedars, that abounded generally in all -the ravines and cañons, with which the side-bluffs of the +the ravines and cañons, with which the side-bluffs of the valley are more or less seamed. Here also they procured the most of their lumber, and from here supplied thousands of ties for the Union Pacific Railroad. We were -surprised to find these cedars so abundant in the cañons, +surprised to find these cedars so abundant in the cañons, where nothing tree-like was visible until you entered. Then we found the whole bottom and sides frequently lined with them to the top; but there they abruptly @@ -2258,7 +2219,7 @@ Platte valley sadly lacking, and the whole Plains country generally. Good peat had been found at Julesburg, and bituminous coal was reported near Fort Morgan; but our posts were depending for both fuel and lumber mainly -on the Platte and its side cañons. At Fort Sedgwick, +on the Platte and its side cañons. At Fort Sedgwick, near Julesburg, they had been hauling wood nearly a hundred miles, at a cost to the government of over a hundred dollars per cord, there being none nearer or @@ -2300,7 +2261,7 @@ by rain, as elsewhere said, scorch and burn the ground to cinders, and long before autumn comes all vegetation there practically perishes. Even the hardy buffalo-grass becomes brown and tinder-like, and the only grazing there -is in the cañons and valleys. Nevertheless our Plains have +is in the cañons and valleys. Nevertheless our Plains have hitherto sustained buffalo by the million, and do it still, although these shaggy monsters have of late mostly disappeared from the Platte region. We did not see one @@ -2321,10 +2282,10 @@ whence we shall export beef and mutton, leather and wool, in exchange for cloth and steel.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> <p>We had several fine rides with brother-officers among -the cañons and bluffs while stopping over to inspect our +the cañons and bluffs while stopping over to inspect our military posts <i>en route</i>, and a grand gallop one bright September morning over the Plains and far away after -antelope. In the cañons and along the bluffs we started +antelope. In the cañons and along the bluffs we started plenty of jack-rabbits; but the antelope were shy and apparently always on the run, so much so we could never get within shot of them. We formed a long line across @@ -2349,7 +2310,7 @@ our horses seemed to enjoy the gallop quite as much as we did ourselves. There was just a spice of danger in the ride, too, as Indians were reported prowling about, but none appeared. We left the Platte with its bluffs and -cañons behind us, and out into the boundless Plains we +cañons behind us, and out into the boundless Plains we rode, on and on, and only drew rein when we discovered that we had lost our reckoning, and were without a compass. The person charged with providing this had @@ -2716,7 +2677,7 @@ the mountains adjacent, and this water-power was therefore justly esteemed very valuable. Four or five miles farther on, the mountains seem to close up—a solid rampart—before you; but suddenly the road shifts and at Gate City, -through a narrow rocky cañon you again pass on. The +through a narrow rocky cañon you again pass on. The road here follows up a diminutive mountain stream, crossing and re-crossing its bed every few yards, and by a very sinuous course slowly makes its way forward between @@ -3011,7 +2972,7 @@ but we had not time to visit them. Down South Clear Creek, and thence to Denver, is a wild and surprising ride of forty-five miles, that well repays you. Much of the way Clear Creek roars and tumbles by the roadside, -with the rocky walls of its cañon towering far above +with the rocky walls of its cañon towering far above you; and when at length you cross the last range and prepare to descend, you catch a distant view of Denver and the Plains, that has few if any equals in all that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> @@ -3052,7 +3013,7 @@ term, meaning anything you may happen to have, from a stamp-mill complete to a tooth-pick—a suit of clothes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> or a revolver—a twelve-ox team or a velocipede. A "divide" means a ridge or water-shed between two -valleys or depressions. A "cañon" is Mexican or Spanish +valleys or depressions. A "cañon" is Mexican or Spanish for a deep defile or gorge in the mountains. A "ranch," ditto, means a farm, or a sort of half-tavern and half-farm, as the country needs there. To "vamose @@ -3350,12 +3311,12 @@ Coloradoans we had yet seen anywhere. The "hotel" or tavern, was forlorn and dirty; the people, idle and listless; and the "City," as a whole, was evidently hastening fast to the status of Goldsmith's Deserted -Village. Cañon City, farther up in the mountains, they +Village. Cañon City, farther up in the mountains, they told us, was even worse off—having no inhabitants at all. It had good buildings, some even of brick and stone, equal indeed to any in Colorado; but all stood empty, like "some banquet-hall deserted," and the once busy -"City" was now as silent as Thebes or Petræ. Such is +"City" was now as silent as Thebes or Petræ. Such is life in our mining regions. Population comes and goes, as restless as the sea, according as the "diggings" promise good "pay-dirt" or bad. And what are prosperous and @@ -3452,7 +3413,7 @@ up a dashing rivulet, that courses away to the Huerfano, and advantage is taken of a depression in the main ridge to cross into San Luis Park. We camped the night before in a sheltered nook among the foot-hills, -surrounded on three sides by gnarled piñon trees, while +surrounded on three sides by gnarled piñon trees, while the fourth opened on a little plateau sloping down to a noisy brook, that afforded water and grass in abundance. The next morning we breakfasted early, and were off up @@ -3540,7 +3501,7 @@ fashion, but I was not yet thirsty enough for that. A mile or two farther, still descending, brought us to the head of Sangre del Christo creek, a dashing rivulet fed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> by snow streams, that runs thence to the Rio Grande. A -winding defile or cañon, of steady though not very rapid +winding defile or cañon, of steady though not very rapid descent, affords a bed-way down the Pass and out into the San Luis Park, and down this the wild little creek shoots very serpentinely. It crosses the road no less than @@ -3635,7 +3596,7 @@ to the Huerfano, and at one point we encountered a whole family similarly engaged. Paterfamilias, whiffing his cigarito, led a diminutive broncho (Mexican for jackass) about the size of a spring calf, on which sat -his household gods, to wit, his Señora also smoking, +his household gods, to wit, his Señora also smoking, with a child before and another behind her—all of them astride. Another broncho of about the same size followed on behind, loaded down with clothing, bedding, and @@ -3674,7 +3635,7 @@ We entered Culebra at dark, amidst a multitudinous chorus of dogs, and halted at the house of Capt. D. a bright German, formerly an officer of New Mexican Volunteers, but who had recently married a Culebra -señorita and settled there. He gave us an excellent supper, +señorita and settled there. He gave us an excellent supper, after which we all adjourned to a "baille," or Mexican Ball, gotten up especially in honor of Gen. Sherman and Gov. Cumming, but which Sherman was unable to @@ -3734,7 +3695,7 @@ dressed; but ornaments abounded, and the baille or fandango seemed to put all on an equality. Most of our party selected partners, and soon were lost in the maze and whirl. True, they could not speak a word of Spanish, nor -their señoritas any English; but that did not matter, as +their señoritas any English; but that did not matter, as the Mexicans regard it as a mark of ill-breeding to converse while dancing. Their manner of saluting each other, when first they met, was unique and original, to wit: @@ -3809,10 +3770,10 @@ you have only rocks and gravel, sage-brush and grease-wood. It contains no timber, except a fringe of cottonwoods and poplars along most of the larger streams; but cedar, pine, and fir are found in the neighboring -cañons and mountains. Cattle and other live-stock +cañons and mountains. Cattle and other live-stock find good grazing in summer along the streams, and in winter they were said to thrive well on the -coarse bunch-grass, with which the surrounding cañons +coarse bunch-grass, with which the surrounding cañons all abound. The broad bottoms of the Rio Grande, waving with tall grass and fatter than the prairies of Illinois, ought to make magnificent meadows, and will some day @@ -3951,7 +3912,7 @@ rest, they bought a hundred and forty cows, which the following spring brought them in nearly as many calves, all of which they were now raising. Pasturage was abundant in summer, and in the winter the adjoining -cañons supplied bunch-grass, etc. They milked all their +cañons supplied bunch-grass, etc. They milked all their cows, and converted the milk into butter and cheese, which two items alone had paid their current expenses so far, with a small margin over. A sluice-way from the @@ -4049,7 +4010,7 @@ brook, we descended gradually to Poncho Creek; and here our really bad road began. So far, the Pass had been excellent, all things considered, and we were astonished at its bad reputation; but after we crossed -Poncho Creek, and got started down its wild cañon, we +Poncho Creek, and got started down its wild cañon, we soon found ample cause for it all. A narrow defile, with precipitous banks on either side from five hundred to a thousand feet high, furnished the only road-way, which @@ -4071,7 +4032,7 @@ hoping to start a bear or shoot a buck-tail deer, but saw no game of any kind. Our experience among the mountains on this trip, indeed, was unfavorable to the stirring accounts we had heard and read of great game there.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> -The lack of trees there, except in the cañons, and +The lack of trees there, except in the cañons, and especially of nut-bearing trees, and likewise of fruit-bearing bushes, must be unfavorable to animal life, as a rule, and I doubt if there ever was much there, except an @@ -4181,7 +4142,7 @@ the ducks carry off your shot-pouch also?" At Fair Play, in the northwest corner of the Park, we found a mining town of four or five hundred inhabitants, apparently<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> busy and prosperous. Timber grew plentifully in -the neighboring cañons, and now adobe huts gave place +the neighboring cañons, and now adobe huts gave place to frame and log shanties. The South Platte skirts the town, and is already a considerable stream here, although it cannot be far away from its source. At Fair Play it @@ -4271,7 +4232,7 @@ species have their birth-place and home.</p> <p>From Fair Play we descended the South Platte direct to Denver, following the course of the river wherever practicable. In some places, its narrow and precipitous -cañons prevented this, but we always returned to its +cañons prevented this, but we always returned to its banks again as soon as possible. Some miles from Fair Play, we passed several gems of lakes, which H. declared to be "the natural home of the wild-duck;" but though @@ -4280,7 +4241,7 @@ disgust. L. more fortunate, got one, and killed several others, but failed to reach them because of the marshes. Our road led over several ranges, some of them quite precipitous, but in the main followed the windings of the -Platte, as before said. Here and there the wild cañons, +Platte, as before said. Here and there the wild cañons, through which the Platte sped like an arrow, became picturesque in the extreme. Frequently our course ahead seemed barred by impenetrable fastnesses, yet somehow @@ -4322,7 +4283,7 @@ peaks and ridges; but with one accord, all hastened forward to behold once more the Plains, the Plains! Yes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> there they were, in all their immeasurable extent! We were out of the Mountains—our long jaunt almost over. -No more cañons. No more forests. No more snow-squalls. +No more cañons. No more forests. No more snow-squalls. No more rides, hour by hour, through narrow valleys and defiles, where the whole man feels "cabined, cribbed, confined." No. There were the Plains, illimitable, @@ -4394,7 +4355,7 @@ the same animals down and back, over five hundred miles continuously, without the loss of a mule, and seldom made less than thirty or forty miles a day, when on the road. Our ambulances proved very convenient and -serviceable, but in crossing the ranges or in bad cañons I +serviceable, but in crossing the ranges or in bad cañons I always preferred a mule. My favorite was Kate, a noble jenny, as large as a horse and a splendid walker, that carried me over many a mile delightfully. She was @@ -4403,7 +4364,7 @@ seemed almost as knowing as a man—obeying every whim of her rider, and following him everywhere. If any mule ever attains immortality and a sort of heaven hereafter, surely Kate deserves to. In crossing the -ranges or threading the cañons thus, on horse or mule +ranges or threading the cañons thus, on horse or mule back, several of us would often get miles ahead, and the time thus gained afforded ample leisure for observation and reflection. We were seldom at a loss for conversation, @@ -5665,7 +5626,7 @@ between foot-hills and ridges, where the general ascent was indeed perceptible, but never difficult. One by one we flanked the main ranges, and at old Fort Halleck, 8,000 feet above the sea, found a natural depression or -cañon through the Mountains, in the absence of which +cañon through the Mountains, in the absence of which a wagon-road there would be seemingly impossible. It really appeared, as if nature had cleft the range there expressly to accommodate the oncoming future; and we @@ -5688,7 +5649,7 @@ adapted to farming, and nearly all of it could be made cultivable by proper irrigation; but it seemed too cold for anything but grass, and the more hardy cereals. No doubt it could be made available for grazing purposes, -and the cañons of the neighboring Mountains would +and the cañons of the neighboring Mountains would afford shelter and grass for winter. Antelope and elk were reported quite abundant still in the valley. We saw a herd of antelope feeding quietly, a mile away, @@ -5816,7 +5777,7 @@ traverse it was surprising. The bleaching bones of horses, mules, and oxen whitened every mile of it, and the very genius of desolation seemed to brood over the landscape. Nevertheless, the station-keepers averred, there -were cañons back of the bluffs, where grass grew freely; +were cañons back of the bluffs, where grass grew freely; and they pointed to their winter's supply of hay in stack, as proof of this. So, too, at Black Buttes station, we found good bituminous coal burning in a rude grate, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> @@ -5845,7 +5806,7 @@ has already developed a vast deposit of coal there. Bitter Creek itself flowed sluggishly by us for a day or so, and was a little miserable stream, that just managed to crawl—usually at the bottom of a deep gulch or abrupt -cañon—its chalky color proclaiming its alkali taint even +cañon—its chalky color proclaiming its alkali taint even before you tasted it. We must have followed it for a hundred miles or more, and yet it continued very nearly the same in size throughout. What water it @@ -6054,19 +6015,19 @@ and generous even for a Virginian.</p> midst of gusty winds that soon turned to rain, and reached Salt Lake City the next night about midnight; distance 120 miles. We halted for breakfast at the head -of Echo Cañon, and were at a loss to account for the air +of Echo Cañon, and were at a loss to account for the air of neatness and refinement, that pervaded the rude station, until we noticed Scott's Marmion and the Bible lying on a side shelf. Two nice looking ladies waited on the table, and it is safe to conclude a taste for literature and religion will keep people civilized and refined almost -anywhere. Echo Cañon itself proved to be a narrow rocky +anywhere. Echo Cañon itself proved to be a narrow rocky defile, some thirty miles long through the heart of the mountains there, with a little brawling creek flowing through it. Its red sandstone walls mostly tower above you for several hundred feet, and in places quite overhang the road. Here in 1857-8, Brigham Young made his famous stand -against the United States, and flooded the cañon by +against the United States, and flooded the cañon by damming the creek at various points. The remains of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> his dam, and of various rude fortifications, were still perceptible; but Judge Carter reported them all of small @@ -6102,7 +6063,7 @@ How <i>not</i> to do it, until Brigham found a convenient loop-hole, and crept out of the scrape himself. Verily, the ways of politicians are "past finding out!"</p> -<p>Past Echo Cañon, we struck Weber Valley, and here<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> +<p>Past Echo Cañon, we struck Weber Valley, and here<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> found ourselves at last thoroughly among the Mormons. Fine little farms dotted the valley everywhere, and the settlements indeed were so numerous, that much of the @@ -6129,7 +6090,7 @@ character, far from first-class, but nevertheless invaluable in the absence of something better.</p> <p>Just at dark, we found ourselves at the head of -Parley's Cañon, and still several miles distant from Salt +Parley's Cañon, and still several miles distant from Salt Lake City. Snow-flakes had sifted lazily downward all day, but at night-fall they changed to sleet, which thickened presently into a regular snow-storm, and soon @@ -6155,7 +6116,7 @@ where a man becomes fairly indifferent as to what may happen—and at length, as L. averred, went soundly to sleep, though I had no recollection afterwards of anything but dozing. I only know that when the horses -again struck a trot, as we began to descend the cañon +again struck a trot, as we began to descend the cañon westward, I roused up shivering with cold; and was only too glad, when far away in the distance our driver pointed out the lights of Salt Lake City, twinkling through the @@ -7711,12 +7672,12 @@ will hold them justly responsible.</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h2> -<h4>SALT LAKE TO BOISÈ CITY, IDAHO.</h4> +<h4>SALT LAKE TO BOISÈ CITY, IDAHO.</h4> <p>It was our intention originally to proceed from Salt Lake to San Francisco direct, <i>via</i> Nevada; but our long -sojourn at Salt Lake induced us to go <i>via</i> Boisè City and +sojourn at Salt Lake induced us to go <i>via</i> Boisè City and the Columbia instead. When arranging for our departure, we happened to meet Mr. Ben Holliday, the great stage-proprietor of the Plains there, and he advised us @@ -7816,7 +7777,7 @@ over all our American stage-coaching will be written "Ichabod"—its glory has departed.</p> <p>Mr. Halsey, Mr. Holladay's general superintendent at -Salt Lake, was about going to Boisè City to look after +Salt Lake, was about going to Boisè City to look after stage-affairs generally, and politely invited us to share his special coach. I was still feeble, and it was some days before I could leave; but finally Nov. 7th, we @@ -7834,9 +7795,9 @@ furnished rich pasturage for large herds of horses and cattle, belonging chiefly to Brigham Young. These beautiful islands had been "granted" to him by the Utah Legislature, as well as the exclusive right to -numerous streams and cañons in other parts of the Territory, +numerous streams and cañons in other parts of the Territory, that were esteemed especially valuable. Among -others, they had granted to him City Creek cañon, which +others, they had granted to him City Creek cañon, which contained about the only valuable timber within many miles of Salt Lake City, and now every man, who chopped a load of wood there, had to pay tribute to Brother @@ -7849,7 +7810,7 @@ all vegetation around them, and also for a considerable distance along the issuing streams, that flowed thence into Great Salt Lake. Every few miles we crossed dashing rivulets, that came roaring and foaming -out of the cañons, all making their way ultimately to the +out of the cañons, all making their way ultimately to the Lake—the common reservoir of all that basin. Great Salt Lake drains many hundreds of square miles there, receiving streams from all directions, but giving out @@ -7874,7 +7835,7 @@ and rapidly growing larger. It was Salt Lake City over again, on a reduced scale, but evidently patterning after it, both in plan and detail. Its streets were broad and rectangular; its irrigating streams, clear and -cold from the neighboring cañons; its houses, adobe or +cold from the neighboring cañons; its houses, adobe or frame; and its yards and gardens, a mass of beauty and luxuriance. A general air of industry and thriftiness pervaded the little community. Everybody appeared to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> @@ -7891,7 +7852,7 @@ energy. His hotel was a comfortable two-story adobe house, with shingle roof, and was remarkably well kept for a country tavern, all things considered. He was a heavy contractor with the stage-line, to deliver grain -along at the stations between Salt Lake and Boisè City, +along at the stations between Salt Lake and Boisè City, and Mr. Halsey concluded to stop over one night to see and confer with him. He received us with generous hospitality, and was soon conversing freely upon all matters @@ -7931,7 +7892,7 @@ that the mountains trended away more to the east, and the plateau thence to the Lake consequently became broader. Settlements continued most of the way, but the farms grew more scattered, and ran more to grazing. -Wherever a stream issued from the cañons, it had been +Wherever a stream issued from the cañons, it had been caught up and carried far up and down the plateau, to irrigate a wide breadth of land, and its application appeared always to have met with a generous return. @@ -7991,16 +7952,16 @@ and, apart from these, vast tracks of land were unused, where grazing would certainly prove profitable.</p> <p>We crossed Bear River, here a broad deep stream, on -a rude bridge, and were now fairly off for Boisè City. +a rude bridge, and were now fairly off for Boisè City. Here, eighty-three miles from Salt Lake, the road forked—one branch going to Virginia City, Montana, and the -other continuing on to Boisè. The Montana travel was +other continuing on to Boisè. The Montana travel was then much the larger, and the stages thus far went full. But the Idaho travel was light—most of her miners preferring the Columbia as a base. From Bear River -quite through to Boisè, the country as a whole proved +quite through to Boisè, the country as a whole proved wild and sterile, with but little to recommend it, until we -struck the valley of the Boisè. There were some good +struck the valley of the Boisè. There were some good grazing lands here and there, judging by the "bunch" grass; but Idaho, as a rule, seemed to be a high volcanic plateau, barren and desert-like. Much of it reminded us @@ -8014,7 +7975,7 @@ They were built generally of stone, laid up loosely with clay, and often their only fuel was sage-brush and grease-wood—about the last apology for fuel on the earth. The whole region seemed destitute of timber, until you -reached the Boisè, and even here there was not much to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +reached the Boisè, and even here there was not much to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> brag of. Good wholesome water seemed to be equally rare, and even at the stage-stations where they had dug for it, the water was often very unpalatable. We passed @@ -8036,7 +7997,7 @@ bet!"</p> time to wait, we concluded to pass on to the next station. At most of the stations, the only persons were two stock-tenders or stable-hands, and sometimes only one. At -Maláde, however, as we halted there one cold and blustering +Maláde, however, as we halted there one cold and blustering night, we were agreeably surprised to find a blazing fire and an excellent meal, that gained all the more by contrast with the forlorn and cheerless stations, that greeted us @@ -8132,7 +8093,7 @@ cereals to succeed well.</p> <p>The great American Falls of Snake River were twenty miles or so farther up, and, much to our regret, we failed to reach them. Mr. Halsey intended taking -us that way, but he was already overdue in Boisè, and +us that way, but he was already overdue in Boisè, and as I myself had lost a fortnight by illness at Salt Lake, and the weather was threatening, we concluded to hasten on. These falls have been described by some @@ -8148,7 +8109,7 @@ a party of soldiers, from an adjacent post, had measured them only a few weeks before, and they reported them as one hundred and ninety-four feet high in all, by perhaps two hundred yards wide, and with the black -basaltic walls of the cañon rising some six hundred feet +basaltic walls of the cañon rising some six hundred feet above them still, on either side. During seasons of high water, this would make them quite worthy, indeed, of their great reputation. But the volume of water @@ -8160,7 +8121,7 @@ Falls, as the chief wonder of all that region; and as the<span class="pagenum">< country just there has little else to brag of, perhaps it is well not to gainsay them.</p> -<p>From the Snake to the Boisè, as already intimated, +<p>From the Snake to the Boisè, as already intimated, the country was, if anything, still more barren and desolate, than the region we had just passed over. In some places, it was strewn thick for miles with black @@ -8170,9 +8131,9 @@ anywhere. In such localities, the wolves disappeared, and even the inevitable sage-brush and grease-wood disdained to grow; or, if they grew at all, only eked out a miserable existence. Once across this high "divide," -however, we struck the valley of the Boisè, which soon +however, we struck the valley of the Boisè, which soon introduced us to an excellent region again, and as we -neared Boisè City we found ranches and farms everywhere +neared Boisè City we found ranches and farms everywhere thickening up. Horses and cattle were out grazing by the roadside in considerable numbers, and down in the bottoms frequent squads of stacks indicated, @@ -8181,11 +8142,11 @@ harvested. Wagons now appeared again on the road, as beyond Bear River, (we had not met a single one since leaving there), and people flocked to the doors and windows as the stage rolled by. Once across the "divide" -between the Snake and Boisè, the whole country sloped -gently to the Boisè, and we spun along and down these +between the Snake and Boisè, the whole country sloped +gently to the Boisè, and we spun along and down these descending grades at a splendid gait. We made one hundred and twenty miles, in the last twenty-two hours -out from Boisè City, and rolled up to the Overland +out from Boisè City, and rolled up to the Overland House with our last team as fresh and gamey as stallions.</p> <p>Our general ride from Bear River, however, was @@ -8211,7 +8172,7 @@ without stiffening the ground enough to bear the coach up, and here again we had another cheerful walk of a couple of miles or so, to relieve the blown horses. At King Hill, the last serious "divide" before reaching -Boisè, we had another promenade of a mile or two, +Boisè, we had another promenade of a mile or two, through five or six inches of snow, just after midnight; but I managed to stick by the stage. The weather continued raw and cold, rainy and sleety, by turns, and we @@ -8220,7 +8181,7 @@ the middle of the day. At night our mattrasses proved too narrow for three, after all, and Halsey's shoulders or knees were constantly punching into either L. or me. He and L. usually slept right along all night, but I got scarcely -a genteel wink from Bear River to Boisè. By sunrise +a genteel wink from Bear River to Boisè. By sunrise ordinarily we were up, and then came a general smoke and talk over the night's experience. By nine or ten <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> we halted for breakfast, which usually consisted of chicory @@ -8233,7 +8194,7 @@ with the courses perchance reversed. Bilious and aguish with that accursed mountain-fever still hanging about me, I need scarcely say, I had little relish for such a bill of fare, and indeed scarcely ate a "square meal" from -Bear River to Boisè. Fortunately, among other extras, +Bear River to Boisè. Fortunately, among other extras, Mr. Halsey had had the forethought to lay in a half a bushel of apples, just fresh from the tree at Salt Lake, and these we all munched <i>ad libitum</i> as we journeyed @@ -8244,7 +8205,7 @@ without them. We were three days and three nights on the road continuously, never stopping except forty minutes or so at a time for meals. The last twenty-four hours out, the weather was raw and cold even for -November; and as we rolled into Boisè, with every joint +November; and as we rolled into Boisè, with every joint aching, the lights of a town never seemed more winning and welcome. At the Overland House, they were already full. But they gave us a good hot supper, followed @@ -8298,7 +8259,7 @@ you, wherever you may go!</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h2> -<h4>BOISÈ CITY TO THE COLUMBIA.</h4> +<h4>BOISÈ CITY TO THE COLUMBIA.</h4> <p>Idaho, one of the latest of our new Territories, was @@ -8307,10 +8268,10 @@ Oregon and Washington, and calling the incipient state by that euphoneous name. Lewiston, the head of navigation then, <i>via</i> the Columbia, was originally its capital; but the "shrieks of locality" demanded a more central -position, and so Boisè City secured the honor. We +position, and so Boisè City secured the honor. We found it (Nov., 1860) a mushroom town of log and frame buildings, but thoroughly alive every way. Three years -before, there was nothing there but the Boisè bottoms, +before, there was nothing there but the Boisè bottoms, and a scattered ranch or two. Now she boasted three thousand inhabitants, two daily newspapers, stage-lines in all directions, and ebullient prosperity. A hotel, of @@ -8325,15 +8286,15 @@ was chiefly a "pitching into" Brigham Young, largely for the want of these. The preacher had been down to Salt Lake, spying out the land for missionary purposes, and had returned filled with hearty unction against the -whole system of Mormonism. Boisè City was then the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> +whole system of Mormonism. Boisè City was then the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> centre of the mining regions of Idaho, though not <i>of</i> them—like Denver, as related to Colorado. The mines were chiefly miles away, at Owyhee, Ruby, Idaho City, and Silver City; but all business sprang from and converged -here at Boisè, as the most central point, all things +here at Boisè, as the most central point, all things considered, and most of the "bricks" dropped first into her lap. Mining operations were mostly over for that -season, and the streets and saloons of Boisè were +season, and the streets and saloons of Boisè were thronged with rough miners, <i>en route</i> for the Columbia, or even California, to winter and return. They claimed they could save money by this temporary exodus—the @@ -8355,14 +8316,14 @@ and he mocks at the old maxim, "A rolling stone gathers no moss," though usually he is a good exemplification of it.</p> -<p>The chief business of Boisè, just then, seemed to be +<p>The chief business of Boisè, just then, seemed to be drinking whiskey, and gambling. The saloons were the handsomest buildings in town, and were thronged at all hours of the day and night. The gamblers occupied corners of these, and drove a brisk trade unmolested by anybody. The restaurants were also important points<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> of interest, and gave excellent meals at not unreasonable -prices, all things considered. Here at Boisè, our U. S. +prices, all things considered. Here at Boisè, our U. S. greenbacks for the first ceased to be "currency," and the precious metals became the only circulating medium. It did one's eyes good to see our old gold and silver coins @@ -8378,7 +8339,7 @@ but these were usually settled amicably, unless the sometimes flashed with bowie-knives, or rung with revolvers.</p> -<p>Here, also at Boisè, for the first, we met John Chinaman. +<p>Here, also at Boisè, for the first, we met John Chinaman. Quite a number of the Celestials had already reached Idaho from California, <i>via</i> the Columbia, and were scattered through the towns, as waiters, cooks, launderers, @@ -8424,16 +8385,16 @@ her quartz-mining will always prove very expensive, because of the scarcity of fuel, and the heavy cost of transportation. Railroads, it was hoped, would cheapen both of these items in the future, but as yet they seemed -distant. From the Columbia to Boisè City, was only about +distant. From the Columbia to Boisè City, was only about three hundred miles, and yet the charge then for transportation over this short distance was <i>more than half</i> the charge from the Missouri to Salt Lake, some twelve hundred miles. This was explained, as one result of their coin basis, and of the high price of wages, and everything<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> else in Idaho. But the fact remained, as an ugly circumstance, -for Boisè to digest.</p> +for Boisè to digest.</p> -<p>Fort Boisè, on the outskirts of the town, was headquarters +<p>Fort Boisè, on the outskirts of the town, was headquarters of military affairs in Idaho, but had ceased to be of much importance. The Territorial Legislature had already applied to the proper Department at Washington, @@ -8451,7 +8412,7 @@ staunch Republican, and was one of the intensest Union men I ever met. One day a Paymaster happened along, whose baggage a fortnight before had been robbed of $65,000 in greenbacks, and an equal amount in vouchers, -while he was taking supper at Fort Boisè. At first, he +while he was taking supper at Fort Boisè. At first, he was paralyzed to lose such an amount, in that wild region. But subsequently he struck a "lead," and followed it up with the pertinacity of a sleuth-hound, until he recovered @@ -8477,7 +8438,7 @@ post in Idaho; and thanked God for America, and that there was "life in the old land yet!"</p> <p>Recruited up again pretty well by our stay at -Boisè, we left there Nov. 19th for Umatilla and the +Boisè, we left there Nov. 19th for Umatilla and the Columbia. Stages ran three times a week, but they were going so crowded, and the roads were reported so heavy, that I deemed it more advisable to proceed by @@ -8486,11 +8447,11 @@ it would take three times as long; but this would give me an opportunity of resting at night, and I feared to venture on otherwise, anxious as we were to reach the Columbia before winter set in. Our route lay -substantially down the valley of the Boisè, and other +substantially down the valley of the Boisè, and other tributaries of the Snake, to the Snake at Farewell Bend, and thence across the Blue Mountains to the Umatilla, and down that to the Columbia. The chief tributaries -of the Snake just there were the Boisè, Pratt's River, +of the Snake just there were the Boisè, Pratt's River, Burnt River, and Powder River, and we traversed the valleys of each of these successively. These valleys were all substantially alike, and consisted usually of bottoms @@ -8508,13 +8469,13 @@ but the soil looked fat and fertile enough, and evidently required only patient irrigation, to become as prolific as the fields of Utah. Water for this might be supplied in part from the rivers mentioned, and in part perhaps from -the neighboring cañons, if they be not dry cañons. The +the neighboring cañons, if they be not dry cañons. The chief drawback of the country to the Snake, indeed, seemed to be the scarcity of timber, for fencing and building purposes. For fuel, coal had been discovered, -both at Farewell Bend and near Boisè City; but timber +both at Farewell Bend and near Boisè City; but timber for other purposes was everywhere scarce and dear. In -the valley of the Boisè, "Shanghai" fences were frequent, +the valley of the Boisè, "Shanghai" fences were frequent, such as we had seen in eastern Kansas; but the Idahoans used thongs instead of nails, to fasten the boards or rails to the posts—hides evidently being cheaper there, @@ -8540,7 +8501,7 @@ that the usual trains would have gone into camp by sundown, and took the chances for any accidental travellers like ourselves. It was a beautiful night, with the moon out in all her glory, walking a cloudless sky and filling the -cañon of the Snake with a flood of light; but we were +cañon of the Snake with a flood of light; but we were not sorry when we heard the lowing of the cattle, and the wee-hawing of the mules, belonging to the trains in camp beyond. It was eight <span class="smcap">p. m.</span>, (Nov. 20th), when we @@ -8561,7 +8522,7 @@ largest in all that region—and it seemed would yet be made available for navigation, though now badly beset with reefs and rapids. A steamboat had already been built at Farewell Bend, to run up to the neighborhood of -Boisè and beyond; but that was her first season, and the +Boisè and beyond; but that was her first season, and the results were yet to be seen. It was said, that by starting early in the season, she could reach a point within about two hundred miles of Salt Lake, and thus communicate @@ -8584,7 +8545,7 @@ say.</p> having crossed it at Farewell Bend, we were now fairly in Oregon. We soon struck the valley of Burnt River, and followed it up for many miles. At first, it abounded -in wild and rocky cañons, that seemed to have no +in wild and rocky cañons, that seemed to have no outlet; but farther on, it widened out, and frequent ranches dotted its broad and fertile bottoms. Powder River valley, the next beyond, was more promising @@ -8660,7 +8621,7 @@ to hurricanes or tempests, we could only say, <p>Le Grande, the county-seat, we found to be a thriving town of a thousand or so inhabitants, and the largest and -busiest place by far since leaving Boisè. At the foot of +busiest place by far since leaving Boisè. At the foot of the Mountains, where the road from the Columbia debouches into Grande Ronde, it caught a large amount of trade and travel that way, and also did considerable @@ -8683,7 +8644,7 @@ looking hotel, at last. Here they gave us excellent accommodations for the night, and the next morning we started to cross the Blue Mountains.</p> -<p>We had left Boisè with a four-mule team, but at the +<p>We had left Boisè with a four-mule team, but at the end of the first day our lead-mules gave out, and we had to hire a pair of ponies to take their places. These ponies—the only animals we could secure—were bright @@ -8719,7 +8680,7 @@ with our ambulance stout and strong, and our high-stepping steeds, all the auspices seemed to change in our favor. We soon struck the Le Grande river, and followed this up for several miles, through wild and picturesque -cañons, or along the shelving sides of the mountains, +cañons, or along the shelving sides of the mountains, where often two teams could hardly pass. The Le Grande carried us well up and into the Mountains, and every hour the scenery became grander and wilder. @@ -8754,7 +8715,7 @@ exemplified, with abounding emphasis, "Jordan's a hard road to travel!" The roads, indeed, as a whole, after we got up into the Mountains, were simply execrable, and our ride in that respect anything but romantic. All -along the route, we found freight-trains, bound for Boisè +along the route, we found freight-trains, bound for Boisè City and the Mines, hopelessly "stalled." Some of the wagons with a broken wheel or axle, had already been abandoned. Others were being watched over by their @@ -8794,7 +8755,7 @@ call themselves) of the Plains and Mountains, it would be difficult perhaps to find, or even imagine. On the road here in the Blue Mountains, with their many-yoked teams struggling through the mud and rocks, -of course, they were in their element. <i>Outré</i>, red-shirted, +of course, they were in their element. <i>Outré</i>, red-shirted, big-booted, brigand-looking ruffians, with the inseparable bowie-knife and revolver buckled around their waists, they swung and cracked their great whips @@ -8829,7 +8790,7 @@ great sympathy for the patient, faithful oxen, and wished for Mr. Henry Bergh and his Cruelty-Prevention Society many a time that day. Here, indeed, was some explanation of the high rates of freight from the Columbia to -Boisè; and Idaho would find it to her interest to improve +Boisè; and Idaho would find it to her interest to improve such routes of transportation forthwith.</p> <p>I need scarcely add, it was a hard day on our noble @@ -8873,7 +8834,7 @@ at last, and to sit down to the generous cheer he gave us at nightfall. Though 8,000 feet or more, above the sea, and built wholly of logs, it was the cleanest, cheeriest, and best public-house we had yet seen in either Oregon -or Idaho, outside of Boisè City; and even the "Overland" +or Idaho, outside of Boisè City; and even the "Overland" there indeed set no better table, if as good. We did ample justice to the luscious venison, sausage, and pumpkin-pies, that they gave us for dinner at 6 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span>—having @@ -9004,7 +8965,7 @@ besides the snow above had been only rain here.</p> was really very fine. Just as we rounded its brow the clouds broke away, and the sun came out for awhile quite brilliantly. Far beneath us, vast plateaus, -like those between Bear River and Boisè City, stretched +like those between Bear River and Boisè City, stretched away to the Columbia; and in the distance, the whole region looked like a great plain or valley. To the north-east, we could follow for miles the road or trail to Walla-Walla, @@ -9126,7 +9087,7 @@ Oregon Lowell will yet hum with spindles there, and its woolen-cloths and blankets become world-renowned.</p> <p>It will be seen, we were seven days and a half in getting -through from Boisè City, though expecting to make +through from Boisè City, though expecting to make it in six. The stages advertised to make it in three, but the last one had been out five, with the passengers walking much of the way at that. A party of Irish miners we @@ -9152,7 +9113,7 @@ again picked up a few thousands, and had just concluded a freight contract with a mining company at Owyhee, that he thought was going to "pay big." But it did not commence until spring, and meanwhile he was trying his -hand at the lively business in Boisè. While on the +hand at the lively business in Boisè. While on the coast he had lived in California, Nevada, British America, Washington, Oregon, and now Idaho; had camped out in the mining regions; shot grizzlies in the Sierra Nevadas; @@ -9231,7 +9192,7 @@ had observed it all through the South, in over ten thousand miles of travel there; and here it was again,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> mysterious and blatant, at the head of navigation on the Pacific Coast. So, we had found it all through the -Rocky Mountains, at Salt Lake, and Boisè, as inevitable +Rocky Mountains, at Salt Lake, and Boisè, as inevitable as the stage-station and post-office; and the design was the same huge cabalistic characters always. Another advertisement accompanied us regularly across the Plains @@ -9285,7 +9246,7 @@ usually did six months in the year. With very high water, they could run up to Lewiston, at the junction of the Snake and Clearwater, about 175 miles more, three months in the year—making about 500 miles from the -sea in all. Above Lewiston, there was a bad cañon in +sea in all. Above Lewiston, there was a bad cañon in the Snake, with shoals and rapids for a hundred miles or so to Farewell Bend; but after that, he thought, a light-draught steamer might get up at least three hundred @@ -9437,7 +9398,7 @@ below. Some of these tiny cascades streaked the cyclopean walls, like threads of silver, from top to bottom. Others seemed mere webs of gossamer, and these the wind at times caught up and swayed to and fro, like veils -fit for goddesses. These Mountains, all through the cañon +fit for goddesses. These Mountains, all through the cañon of the Columbia, abound with such fairy cascades; whence their name. Just below Lower Cascades, where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> the river-bottoms open out a little, stands Castle Rock, a @@ -9448,7 +9409,7 @@ covered with a thick growth of fir-trees. Its alleged height appeared incredible at first, but on comparing it with the gigantic firs at the base, and those on the summit, the estimate seemed not unreasonable. All -along, the vast basaltic walls of the cañon are shaped and +along, the vast basaltic walls of the cañon are shaped and fashioned into domes and turrets, ramparts and battlements; and surely in point of picturesque grandeur and effect, the Columbia would be hard to beat. We had @@ -9480,7 +9441,7 @@ no doubt he is the safety-valve of all that region. We had caught a glimpse or two of Mt. Hood in descending the Blue Mountains, and again from Umatilla: but it was only for a moment, and usually with his night-cap -on. But in threading the cañon of the Columbia, one +on. But in threading the cañon of the Columbia, one morning as we rounded a rocky bastion, suddenly, a hundred miles away, Hood stood before us, a vast pyramidal peak, snow-clad from base to summit, resting in solitary @@ -9490,7 +9451,7 @@ undulation of the general Cascade Range, Hood quickly shoots up loftily into the sky, individual and alone, and serene and unapproachable dominates the far-stretching landscape. From all points of view, whether -descending the Columbia, where the cañon often frames +descending the Columbia, where the cañon often frames him in like a picture, or at Fort Vancouver, where he stands superb and glorious against the sapphire sky, Hood always gives you the impression of vast loftiness, @@ -9534,7 +9495,7 @@ but never apparently succeeding, their white discs gleaming in the sun; and when we drew nearer, we beheld a fleecy mist drifting up the Columbia, and streaming eastward like a pennon. Nearer still, we encountered a -stiff breeze sweeping through the cañon, as through a +stiff breeze sweeping through the cañon, as through a funnel; and when we got well down into the jaws of the gorge, it needed all our steam, as well as the strong westward current to carry us forward. Sometimes, it was @@ -9709,8 +9670,8 @@ the tropics, bears the isothermal lines so far north on this coast, that here at Fort Vancouver in the latitude of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> Montreal, they have the climate of the Carolinas in winter, with little of their excessive heats in summer. -Walla-Walla, in latitude 46°, boasts the range of Washington, -D. C. in 39°; and San Francisco, on the line of +Walla-Walla, in latitude 46°, boasts the range of Washington, +D. C. in 39°; and San Francisco, on the line of New York, claims the climate of Savannah. One evening while there, after a day of weary rain, the clouds suddenly broke away, and just at sunset we caught @@ -9859,7 +9820,7 @@ traveller, and other tourists we met <i>en route</i> remarked the same thing.</p> <p>Here at Portland, John Chinaman turned up again, -and seemed to be behaving thoroughly well. At Boisè, +and seemed to be behaving thoroughly well. At Boisè, we found these heathen paying their stage-fare, and riding down to the Columbia, while many Caucasians were walking, and here at Portland they appeared alike thrifty @@ -10015,7 +9976,7 @@ that deathliest of all human ailments, had set in, and our "rough and tumble" with the waves had been so sharp, that many began to suffer from it, who declared they had never been attacked before. A notable New -Yorker, a brawny son of Æsculapius at that, bravely +Yorker, a brawny son of Æsculapius at that, bravely protested, that sea-sickness was "Only a matter of the imagination. Anyone can overcome it. It only requires a vigorous exercise of the will." But, unfortunately for @@ -10154,7 +10115,7 @@ was born and the city named. Benicia tried to change things afterwards; but 'Frisco had got the start, and kept it, in spite of her false location. Her military defences are Fort Point at the mouth of the Golden Gate, -Fort San Josè farther up the harbor, and Alcatraz on an +Fort San Josè farther up the harbor, and Alcatraz on an island square in the entrance, which with other works yet to be constructed would cross-fire and command all the approaches by water, thus rendering the city fairly @@ -10261,7 +10222,7 @@ boom of welcoming cannon, came the Hong Kong steamer fresh from Japan. The Panama steamer, with her fires banked and flag flying, was just ready to cast off. While off to the south, a long train of cars, from down -the bay and San Josè, came thundering in. A hundred +the bay and San Josè, came thundering in. A hundred church spires pierced the sky; the smoke from numberless mills and factories, machine-shops and foundries, drifted over the harbor; the horse-car bells tinkled on @@ -10677,7 +10638,7 @@ are nowhere more esteemed or better treated, than on the Pacific Coast, and all are usually delighted with their tour of duty there. In former years, many of them married magnificent ranches—encumbered, however, with -native señoritas—and here and there we afterwards +native señoritas—and here and there we afterwards met them, living like grand seignors on their broad and baronial acres. Ranches leagues in extent, and maintaining thousands of cattle and sheep, are still common in @@ -10692,7 +10653,7 @@ peerless bay. Yet noble as it is for purposes of commerce, it avails little for pleasure excursions; and 'Frisco, indeed, might be better off in this respect. A trip to Oakland is sometimes quite enjoyable, and the ride by railroad -down the peninsula, skirting the bay, to San Josè, is +down the peninsula, skirting the bay, to San Josè, is always a delight. But the bay itself is fickle and morose in winter, and in summer must be raw and gusty. The suck of wind, from the Pacific into the interior, through @@ -10916,7 +10877,7 @@ it, fully and thoroughly, from the Sierras to the sea.</p> <p>The Chinese Question, we had an opportunity of looking into considerably, first and last, and here are -some conclusions. Striking the orientals at Boisè City, +some conclusions. Striking the orientals at Boisè City, in Idaho, we had followed them down the Columbia and the Coast to San Francisco, and here endeavored to learn all we could about them. We found them everywhere @@ -11440,7 +11401,7 @@ the rest, is it not Emerson, who says:</p> <div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> <span class="i0">"<i>We</i> are masters of the years,<br /></span> <span class="i1">Of the seven stars and golden spheres,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of Cæsar's hand and Plato's brain,<br /></span> +<span class="i1">Of Cæsar's hand and Plato's brain,<br /></span> <span class="i1">Of Lord Christ's heart, and Shakespeare's strain?"<br /></span> </div></div> @@ -11675,7 +11636,7 @@ besides running coast-wise lines North and South. She was one of a line, that ran semi-monthly to San Diego and return, touching at Santa Barbara and San Pedro, and seemed to be paying very well. We might have -gone southward from San Francisco to San Josè by railroad, +gone southward from San Francisco to San Josè by railroad, and thence by stage to Los Angelos and Fort Yuma; but our long stage-rides, from the Missouri to Salt Lake and thence to the Columbia, had worn the @@ -11762,7 +11723,7 @@ say—the Jesuit Fathers had one of their most flourishing<span class="pagen Missions here, and their old Mission Church on a plateau back of the town was still standing, though now used chiefly as a school. Dr. O. formerly of the Army, -but now married to a señorita and settled at Santa +but now married to a señorita and settled at Santa Barbara, escorted us through the town, and afterwards regaled us with wine from his own vineyard, of an excellent brand. He pronounced Santa Barbara, @@ -11844,7 +11805,7 @@ were there three men were brought in, arrested for horse-stealing, or something of the sort; but as the jail would accommodate only two—crowded at that—the judge discharged the third, with an appropriate reprimand. At -least, we supposed it "appropriate;" but as it was in Californicè, +least, we supposed it "appropriate;" but as it was in Californicè, and the judge a native, we could make nothing of it. In hot weather, this iron jail-cage must be a miniature tophet; but, no doubt, it remains generally empty. @@ -11967,7 +11928,7 @@ and keen for business; had come to California a common stage-driver, but now ran lines of stages and freight-wagons of his own all over southern California and Arizona, for eight hundred and a thousand -miles; had married a native señorita, with several +miles; had married a native señorita, with several leagues of land, and made her a good husband; was now state senator on the Republican side, and talked of for governor; and, in short, was a good second edition of @@ -12132,7 +12093,7 @@ noblemen, and a fine Representative Californian. A Tennessean by birth, long before the acquisition of California, he had hunted and trapped across the continent, living for years among the Utes and Apaches, -and finally marrying a California señorita, with +and finally marrying a California señorita, with three leagues square of land, had settled down here. His noble ranch lies at the foot of the Coast Range of mountains, with their snow-clad summits towering above, @@ -12355,7 +12316,7 @@ their live-stock by the thousand, and esteemed their rude home a second paradise. They raised a little barley and some beans on a few acres, bordering on the lagoon; but devoted the great bulk of their broad acres to stock-raising. -Señor Dolores Machado met us at the door, as +Señor Dolores Machado met us at the door, as we drove up; but as he could speak no English, and we no Spanish, there seemed to be a predicament. Before leaving Los Angelos, we had anticipated this, knowing @@ -12365,14 +12326,14 @@ and had provided ourselves with "Butler's method of learning to speak Spanish quickly," accordingly. We had conned this over several days, selecting the phrases that would apparently be most useful, and now assailed -Señor Machado with everything we could summon. +Señor Machado with everything we could summon. Imagine our disgust, when he looked wild at our attempted Spanish, and responded to every phrase, "No<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span> -sabe, Señors!" Our driver, Worth, at last came to our +sabe, Señors!" Our driver, Worth, at last came to our rescue, with some mongrel Spanish he had picked up, when soldiering formerly down in Arizona; and when -Señor M. understood we only wanted entertainment for -the night, he smilingly replied, "O, Si! Señors! Si! Si!" +Señor M. understood we only wanted entertainment for +the night, he smilingly replied, "O, Si! Señors! Si! Si!" "Yes! Yes!" with true Castilian grace, and invited us into his abode. He gave us a rough but substantial meal, of coffee, frejoles, and mutton; and when bedtime @@ -12424,7 +12385,7 @@ life hereafter, should sufficient intelligence and labor ever drift that way. But as we approached the Desert, all this ceased, and the very genius of desolation seemed to brood over the landscape. We descended into it -through a narrow rocky cañon, so rough and precipitous, +through a narrow rocky cañon, so rough and precipitous, that T. and I both got out and walked down, leaving the driver to navigate the empty ambulance to the foot, the best he could. Jolting and jumping from rock to gully, @@ -12862,7 +12823,7 @@ seem, that this great river ought to have become more useful to civilization, than it has. But the difficulties of navigating it, even to Callville, were reported great; and beyond that, was the insuperable obstacle of the -Big Cañon of the Colorado, which nobody then knew +Big Cañon of the Colorado, which nobody then knew anything about, except as a geographical mystery, but which Prof. Powell has since explored so gallantly. At Yuma, the river was a turbid, rolling flood, broad and @@ -12961,7 +12922,7 @@ the blazing sun throughout the day; and, consequently, becoming saturated through and through with heat, retains it for months together. Hence, in the summer months, for weeks together, the thermometer there ranges -from 100° to 125° in the shade, and the chief end of the +from 100° to 125° in the shade, and the chief end of the garrison becomes an effort to keep cool, or even tolerably so. A tour of duty there was commonly regarded on the Coast, as a kind of banishment to Botany Bay; and yet @@ -13198,19 +13159,19 @@ an excellent road, over which our wheels rolled easily. Near its eastern borders, a range of barren mountains crosses the Desert from north to south, apparently blocking the way; but the road climbs along through a narrow -cañon, that opens as you approach, and makes the plains -beyond very readily. This cañon is a noted resort of +cañon, that opens as you approach, and makes the plains +beyond very readily. This cañon is a noted resort of the dread Apaches, and several attacks had recently occurred here. Before leaving Fort Yuma we had been told we would find hostile Indians here, if anywhere. But<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span> we took the precaution to dismount from our ambulances, -and skirmish through on foot; and consequently, Señors +and skirmish through on foot; and consequently, Señors Apaches failed to show themselves, if there. Our experience was the same all the way to Tucson. Subsequently, while <i>en route</i> thither, we passed several other places, where we had been warned to look out for Apaches, especially at Picacho, where the mountains crowd down to the -road, and form something like a cañon again. But a +road, and form something like a cañon again. But a prudent vigilance by day, and a few simple precautions by night, carried us safely through; and we were more than ever convinced, that the great majority of Indian attacks @@ -13242,7 +13203,7 @@ country for the Santa Cruz and so south, flanking the Maricopa Desert, and that these sculptured rocks record the place as the starting-point—as a sort of finger-board or mile-stone. This is only a conjecture; but here, at -least, is work for the archæologist and antiquarian, as +least, is work for the archæologist and antiquarian, as well as at so many other points in Arizona.</p> <p>With the exception of some mesquite, iron-wood, @@ -13363,7 +13324,7 @@ on his elbow, saluted us with:</p> <p>To which, we, in true Arizona dialect, responded:</p> -<p>"How! Buenos dias, Señor!"</p> +<p>"How! Buenos dias, Señor!"</p> <p>His dignified and elegant answer was:</p> @@ -13833,7 +13794,7 @@ and repack them, we proceeded up the Salado to Fort McDowell—the commandant there having heard of our approach, and sent an ambulance to bring us. It was some fifteen miles, part of the way through a dreaded -Apache cañon; but we passed safely on, though we did +Apache cañon; but we passed safely on, though we did not reach the post until after nightfall. We found the post—the largest and finest in Arizona—short of rations, and wholly out of forage, as it had been for @@ -13942,7 +13903,7 @@ through the mountains, and nobody had ventured through for a month or more.</p> <p>The Hassayampa itself flows through a wild and -rocky cañon, with high precipitous walls on either side; +rocky cañon, with high precipitous walls on either side; and it was soon apparent, that our only alternative was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span> either to flounder through its quicksands, or retrace our steps to Maricopa Wells. The latter was out of the @@ -13976,7 +13937,7 @@ of the mules would flounder over the tongue, or turn a summerset out of the harness, and, perhaps, come near drowning, before they could be extricated, while the rest would be all right. Now we would be all ashore, clambering -along the rocky walls of the cañon, to give the +along the rocky walls of the cañon, to give the ambulances a better chance; and now, all hands would<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span> be out into the water, to start a stalled team, and then such a whooping and shouting, such a whipping and tugging @@ -13985,7 +13946,7 @@ with McClellan, on the Peninsula; I was with Burnside in his Mud Campaign, after Fredericksburg; we had bad roads down in Tennessee and Georgia, when after Joe Johnston and Hood. But this tedious and toilsome -drive, through the cañon and quicksands of the +drive, through the cañon and quicksands of the Hassayampa, beat all these; and we never would have got through, had we not had light loads, and skilful, plucky, magnificent drivers.</p> @@ -14118,7 +14079,7 @@ valley of the Hassayampa, and across the Aztec Mountains, they certainly had an abundance of ugly-looking places, that seem as if specially made for ambuscades and surprises. If they had attacked us in the -cañon of the Hassayampa, while floundering through +cañon of the Hassayampa, while floundering through the quicksands there, they would have had things pretty much their own way—at least, at first, vigilant as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</a></span> we were. They had killed a wandering Mexican there, @@ -14126,7 +14087,7 @@ only a few days before; but we did not know it, until we reached Wickenburg, and came through ourselves unscathed.</p> -<p>Perhaps the worst place was Bell's Cañon, a long, +<p>Perhaps the worst place was Bell's Cañon, a long, tortuous, rocky defile—diabolical in every respect—a few miles south of Skull Valley. Here a Mr. Bell and others had been killed by Apaches, some two years @@ -14142,7 +14103,7 @@ on either side, they can descry travellers a long way off, through the clear atmosphere of that rainless region; and should they decide to attack, nothing would be easier than to conceal themselves behind the massive boulders, -that bristle along the cañon. We expected trouble here, +that bristle along the cañon. We expected trouble here, if anywhere in Arizona, and, as we approached it, "governed ourselves accordingly." But the "noble Red men" allowed their "Pale-face brothers" to pass in peace. @@ -14156,7 +14117,7 @@ travellers in Arizona, and in all Indian districts, as a rule, none—become careless, wander on ahead, or straggle along behind, <i>without their arms</i>—when presto! suddenly arrows whiz from behind gigantic rocks or down<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</a></span> -shadowy cañons, and men are found dead in the road, +shadowy cañons, and men are found dead in the road, with their scalps gone. In all such regions, the only safe rule is the rule of our western Borderers, to wit: "Never unbuckle your six-shooter, and never venture @@ -14175,7 +14136,7 @@ and between the Gila and the Salado there is a wide district, that deserves some further notice. As you come up out of the Gila bottoms, you pass through scattered mesquite trees, and at length enter -on a broad <i>mèsa</i> (Spanish for "table-land"), ten or +on a broad <i>mèsa</i> (Spanish for "table-land"), ten or fifteen miles wide by thirty or forty long, which bears every evidence of having once been well cultivated, and densely populated. Instead of mesquite, you here @@ -14190,7 +14151,7 @@ think, thirty feet wide by ten or twelve deep, and seems like a great canal of modern times. Just where the road to Fort McDowell crosses this, it subdivides into three or four lesser <i>acequias</i>, and these branch off over the -<i>mèsa</i> indefinitely. This great <i>acequia</i> heads just above<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span> +<i>mèsa</i> indefinitely. This great <i>acequia</i> heads just above<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span> where we crossed the Salado. The river has a considerable descent or "rapids" there, and the ancient constructors of this gigantic water-course, apparently, @@ -14199,7 +14160,7 @@ tapped the river there by three immense mouths, all leading into one common channel; and this they have coaxed along down the bottoms, and gently up the bluff, until at a distance of miles away it at last gained the -level of the <i>mèsa</i>, and there distributed abroad its fertilizing +level of the <i>mèsa</i>, and there distributed abroad its fertilizing waters. So, there are other ancient <i>acequias</i>, furrowing the bottoms of the Salado on either side, though we observed none so large as this.</p> @@ -14248,7 +14209,7 @@ desert—from about everywhere. A railroad will remedy all this, and stimulate Arizona wonderfully in many ways. The whistle of the locomotive will end her Indian troubles, and many others, and may she hear it echoing -and re-echoing among her mountains and cañons very +and re-echoing among her mountains and cañons very soon! A railroad, indeed, is a great blessing everywhere; but in our western territories it means civilization as well, and without one Arizona will evidently continue @@ -14439,7 +14400,7 @@ for months together, they would leave a road unmolested, and then, suddenly, attacking it at different points, clean out all the ranches. A few miles from Camp McDowell,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</a></span> on the road between there and Maricopa Wells, they -infested a rocky cañon on the Rio Salado, and mockingly +infested a rocky cañon on the Rio Salado, and mockingly defied all attempts to expel them. A fortnight before we reached Maricopa Wells, <i>en route</i> to Tucson, a party of them crossed the Salado and Gila, and @@ -14540,22 +14501,22 @@ Whipple, and though they marched seventy-five miles in twenty-four hours, they failed to come up with the Red Skins. The officer in command reported the bold marauders as strong in numbers, and fleeing in the direction of -Hell Cañon—an ugly, diabolical-looking place, some forty +Hell Cañon—an ugly, diabolical-looking place, some forty miles east of Prescott. Gen. Gregg, then commanding the District of Prescott, immediately ordered out two fresh companies of cavalry, and, himself at their head, made a forced march by night, in order to surprise them in their reported stronghold. Next morning at daybreak, -he was at Hell Cañon, but no Apaches were found there,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span> +he was at Hell Cañon, but no Apaches were found there,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span> nor any traces of them. After a brief halt, he ordered -the cavalry to follow down the cañon to its junction with -the Verde, and after scouring all the cañons centering +the cavalry to follow down the cañon to its junction with +the Verde, and after scouring all the cañons centering there, to return by a wide detour to Fort Whipple. The General himself now returned to Prescott, and I cheerfully bear witness to his vigor and chagrin, having accompanied him out and back. A detachment of the cavalry, a day or two afterwards, succeeded in finding a -rancheria of Apaches in a villainous cañon, miles away to +rancheria of Apaches in a villainous cañon, miles away to the southwest of the Verde—a thin curling smoke in the mountains revealing their presence. The troops pushed boldly in, and came suddenly on the rancheria, or village, @@ -14563,7 +14524,7 @@ before they were discovered. Dismounting from their horses, they poured in a rapid volley from their Spencer carbines, that killed five Apaches, and wounded twice as many more. The rest fled, but in a few minutes bravely -rallied, and soon came swarming back, down the cañon +rallied, and soon came swarming back, down the cañon and along its rocky cliffs, in such numbers and with such spirit, that the officer in command deemed it prudent to fall back on the main column. This he succeeded in @@ -14576,7 +14537,7 @@ they succeeded in damaging the Apaches very considerably; but it was not long before they were lurking about the country again.</p> -<p>The rough ride to Hell Cañon and back, despite +<p>The rough ride to Hell Cañon and back, despite occasional snow-squalls, was not unpleasant, and not without its interest. Our route in the main was down the valley of Granite Creek, and past the site of old Fort @@ -14713,11 +14674,11 @@ A few scattered oaks and pines grew here and there, but they could scarcely be called good timber, or much of it. At Rock Springs was a fine bottom of several hundred acres, but not a single inhabitant. Thence on to Hardyville, -through Cottonwood Cañon, past Hualapai Springs, +through Cottonwood Cañon, past Hualapai Springs, Beale's Springs, etc., for nearly a hundred miles, there were no ranches, and no cultivable lands, indeed, worth mentioning. The country, as a whole, seemed a vast volcanic -desert—of mountains, cañons, and mesas—and what it +desert—of mountains, cañons, and mesas—and what it was ever made for, except to excite wonder and astonishment, is a mystery to the passing traveller. Even at the high elevation we were travelling, usually four or five @@ -14856,7 +14817,7 @@ saw at his store were certainly very handsome. He said there were "leads" in the neighboring mountains of exceeding richness, and indeed here and at other similar points along the Colorado, as at La Paz, Aubrey City, -El Dorado Cañon, etc., there seemed the best chances +El Dorado Cañon, etc., there seemed the best chances for mining of anywhere in Arizona. Here were wood (drift-wood, in which the Colorado abounds) and water, the two great needs, usually wanting elsewhere in @@ -14906,7 +14867,7 @@ and wife having left us at Prescott, our little party was now reduced to two and our drivers. Col. Carter, Secretary of the Territory, had accompanied us from Prescott to Mojave; but here he left us for a trip up -the Colorado, intending to push into the Big Cañon, +the Colorado, intending to push into the Big Cañon, if possible. Subsequently, I learned, he failed in doing this; but the fault was not his, and, for the present, we bade him speedy success and a safe return.</p> @@ -14987,7 +14948,7 @@ Shay," ended in a "general spill!" There could hardly have been a more thorough collapse of spokes and felloes—everything seemed to go to pieces—and it could hardly have occurred in a worse place. It was a wild and desolate -cañon, barren and rocky, miles away from every +cañon, barren and rocky, miles away from every human habitation; yet there was nothing for it, but to leave the driver in charge, and the rest of us proceed on to Camp Rock Springs, whence we sent an army-wagon @@ -15045,7 +15006,7 @@ the hours away, as best we could, sleeping and watching in turn; but the next morning, bright and early, we were up and off for Camp Cady. We would have departed, indeed, by night; but the route lay largely up the disgusting -cañon of the Mojave, and was impracticable in +cañon of the Mojave, and was impracticable in the dark. This was the only sign of hostile Indians we saw <i>en route</i> from the Colorado. We could hardly call it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[Pg 420]</a></span> a genuine "scare;" and yet were not greatly grieved, @@ -15053,9 +15014,9 @@ when we found they had given us a wide berth.</p> <p>Some fifteen or twenty miles beyond Soda Lake, we struck the Mojave River, so-called, which there runs for -several miles through a narrow and rocky cañon, much +several miles through a narrow and rocky cañon, much similar to that of the Hassayampa, though its walls are not -so high. The road itself leads up this cañon, for lack of a +so high. The road itself leads up this cañon, for lack of a better route over and through the mountains there, and on first view, it promised to be the Hassayampa over again; but, fortunately, the bottom is chiefly gravel and @@ -15129,8 +15090,8 @@ soon, if it has not been already.</p> quickly run down from five thousand feet above the sea, to about one thousand feet at San Bernardino, or even less. The descent is through a wild and picturesque -cañon, that almost equals in grandeur and sublimity the -far-famed Echo Cañon of Utah. We camped all night +cañon, that almost equals in grandeur and sublimity the +far-famed Echo Cañon of Utah. We camped all night near the foot of the Pass, sleeping so soundly that several mounted deserters<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> from Fort Mojave passed us unheeded, and the next morning, bright and early, we rolled @@ -15435,7 +15396,7 @@ sleeping infant. The sunset itself, that evening, was superb. The clouds became gold, the snow burnished silver, while a purple haze sifted down from the sky, and soon veiled exquisitely the lake and its far-stretching -cañons. As the night gathered deeper, the lights and +cañons. As the night gathered deeper, the lights and shadows became grandly sublime; and then, as a fitting sequel, came one of those glorious skies, ablaze with stars, for which the Coast is so famed. It was blackest marble, @@ -15578,7 +15539,7 @@ and 'Frisco capitalists were still hopeful of the future.</p> <p>The fluctuations of mining stocks were great and frequent, and we watched them with interest while on the Coast. A lucky "strike," probably in some rich "pocket," -would send Savage or Yellow Jacket high up·on the list +would send Savage or Yellow Jacket high up·on the list for a few days or weeks, when the vein would "peter out," and again it would drop to its former figures or below. Our conclusion was, that silver-mining, after all, @@ -15700,7 +15661,7 @@ cliffs so closely, that it made the goose-flesh come and go, or one's hair about stand on end. With the first break of day, I sought the outside of the coach, and revelled in the ride through the breezy pines of the Sierras—monster<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">[Pg 439]</a></span> -coniferæ, ten and twelve feet through, and running +coniferæ, ten and twelve feet through, and running up straight as an arrow by the hundred feet—and so down the range to Lake Tahoe. This (Tahoe) is the gem of the Sierras, <i>par excellence</i>, according to all good @@ -16206,7 +16167,7 @@ animals loose to graze, we proceeded on foot by a narrow trail, that wound along beneath umbrageous pines and firs, just on the margin of the river, which here foamed and roared at our feet a rushing cascade for a mile or -more. Rounding a shoulder of the cañon, the spray +more. Rounding a shoulder of the cañon, the spray from the Vernal Fall suddenly wet us to the skin; but exquisite rainbows, perfect in form and color, began to flame and circle around us, until it almost seemed as if @@ -16222,7 +16183,7 @@ drops 350 feet, without a break, and the volume of water just then was very great. Stairways and ladders carry you to the top, and here a natural wall or breast-work of solid granite enables you to lean out and overlook<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">[Pg 454]</a></span> -the Fall, and Cascades, and wild cañon beyond, without a +the Fall, and Cascades, and wild cañon beyond, without a tremor. Above, the river comes shooting like an arrow, over half a mile of polished granite, from the base of the upper or Nevada Fall. There the Merced makes another @@ -16634,14 +16595,14 @@ of strangers on the Coast.</p> <p>A ride down the bay (June 8th), through San Mateo -and Menlo Park, some fifty miles to San Josè, completed +and Menlo Park, some fifty miles to San Josè, completed my wanderings on the Pacific Coast. The air at San Francisco, fresh from the ocean, was raw and rasping; -but at San Josè, sheltered by the Coast Range, the +but at San Josè, sheltered by the Coast Range, the thermometer measured over twenty degrees warmer, and the valley there seemed sleeping in summer. The whole ride by railroad is through farms and gardens, and San -Josè itself we found embowered in roses and foliage. +Josè itself we found embowered in roses and foliage. Here are old Spanish convents and churches, with their surroundings of vineyards, fig-trees, orange-groves, etc., as at Santa Barbara and Los Angelos—only better preserved—and @@ -16668,7 +16629,7 @@ wharf, to see their friends off, and tarried till the last moment. But, prompt to the minute, the <i>Constitution</i> cast loose, and rounding into the stream, was soon heading down the bay, for the Golden Gate and the Pacific. Past -Alcatraz and Angel Island, past Fort San Josè and Fort +Alcatraz and Angel Island, past Fort San Josè and Fort Point, we reached the bar, and crossed it in a chopping sea, that soon sent most of the passengers to their berths.</p> @@ -16710,8 +16671,8 @@ and rippled away beneath us.</p> <p>As we got farther down the coast, the climate became warmer; but blue-flannels and white-linens in place of winter-woolens, rendered this endurable, and indeed the -change from temperate to tropic—from latitude 38° to -7°—did not seem so great after all, barring the first day +change from temperate to tropic—from latitude 38° to +7°—did not seem so great after all, barring the first day or two out from San Francisco. Some, however, who had not provided themselves with such changes of clothing, complained bitterly of the heat and lassitude, @@ -16936,12 +16897,12 @@ railroad, notwithstanding the heat, a welcome change.</p> It was said, indeed, to rest literally on human bodies, so many poor fellows perished in the deadly miasmas, while constructing it. The ties and sleepers -were of lignum-vitæ, and the telegraph poles of terra-cotta +were of lignum-vitæ, and the telegraph poles of terra-cotta or cement, as nothing else would withstand the insects and moisture of the Isthmus. The stations were well apart, and seemed maintained solely for the convenience<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_475" id="Page_475">[Pg 475]</a></span> of the road, as hardly a passenger got off or on, -except employés of the company. We could see the +except employés of the company. We could see the natives, as we passed along, lolling in their hammocks, or stretched out on mats, in their rude huts of poles and palm-leaves; and their herds of children ran everywhere @@ -16977,7 +16938,7 @@ but without the roomy accommodations of the <i>Constitution</i>, or her thorough appointments. Her beef and mutton were all brought from New York on ice, to last for a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_476" id="Page_476">[Pg 476]</a></span> twenty-day's voyage to Aspinwall and back; and, before -we reached New York, were not like Cæsar's wife—above +we reached New York, were not like Cæsar's wife—above suspicion. But, on the whole, there was little to complain of; and the ship's officers certainly did their utmost, to make everybody content and comfortable.</p> @@ -17239,7 +17200,7 @@ years.</p> New Mexico. His herds are numbered by the thousands. His operations are transferred to Colorado now, and so are those of the Patterson Brothers. On Box-Elder Creek, which is a branch of the -Caché la Poudre, is the ranch and stock range of Mr. Whitcombe, +Caché la Poudre, is the ranch and stock range of Mr. Whitcombe, an old settler of Colorado. He has 2,000 stock cattle and some fine blooded bulls. This range and shelter are perfect.</p> @@ -17259,7 +17220,7 @@ head of Durham and Devon stock, and 2,000 sheep.</p> <p>"The Lemons, at Greeley, have 400 head of American stock. In this neighborhood, Ashcraft has 400 head of American cattle; Munson -has 800 head of cattle and 3,000 sheep. Up the Caché la Poudre +has 800 head of cattle and 3,000 sheep. Up the Caché la Poudre are twenty large stock-raisers.</p> <p>"On the Big and Little Thompson's there are some five herds of @@ -17269,7 +17230,7 @@ blooded stock.</p> country seems one pasture covered with stock. I travelled over this same ground in 1869, and I am sure there are fully three times as many cattle here now as then. There are hundreds of farmers -on the Lone-Tree Creek, Caché la Poudre, Big and Little Thompson's +on the Lone-Tree Creek, Caché la Poudre, Big and Little Thompson's Creeks, St. Vrain's, and many other streams which flow from the mountains to the Platte, who have from one hundred to one thousand head of cattle, a description of whose herds and grazing @@ -17368,7 +17329,7 @@ of the East for wool, beef, mutton, and horses."</p> Times</i>, contains so much valuable information, bearing on the question of Irrigation, as related to the Plains and the great Internal Basin of the Continent, that I venture to insert it here. It seems to be a -careful <i>resumé</i> of the facts that were brought before the notable +careful <i>resumé</i> of the facts that were brought before the notable Convention of Governors and others, that met in Denver in the autumn of '73, to consider the question of a general and comprehensive system of irrigation for all that region:</p> @@ -17432,7 +17393,7 @@ nor has the legislature ever taken cognizance of the situation. The same may be said of the other States and Territories interested in this movement. Irrigation has been limited. The few acres that have been reclaimed in the immediate vicinity of the streams and -cañons, near the mountains, bear no comparison to the vast body +cañons, near the mountains, bear no comparison to the vast body of plain and desert stretching hundreds of miles in every direction.</p> <p>The cost of constructing irrigating canals varies according to @@ -17446,7 +17407,7 @@ for 8,000,000 people. The Plains, extending from the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains eastward nearly 300 miles, comprise about 25,000,000 acres. Of this vast tract there are 1,500,000 acres belonging to the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, lying south of the -Platte River, and which a canal from the Platte Cañon to the headwaters +Platte River, and which a canal from the Platte Cañon to the headwaters of the Republican will cover. Such a canal, 12 feet wide and 3 feet deep, will cost $1,000 per mile. It will make lands that now go a-begging at $2.50 per acre worth from $10 to $15.</p> @@ -17515,7 +17476,7 @@ Santa Barbara for the year 1870-1:</p> <tr> <td>April,</td> <td colspan="3">average of the three daily observations</td> - <td>60.62°</td> + <td>60.62°</td> </tr> <tr> <td>May,</td> @@ -17595,7 +17556,7 @@ Santa Barbara for the year 1870-1:</p> <td>58.42</td> </tr> <tr> - <td class="center" colspan="5">Average temperature for the year, 60.20°.</td> + <td class="center" colspan="5">Average temperature for the year, 60.20°.</td> </tr> </tbody> </table> @@ -17610,9 +17571,9 @@ Santa Barbara for the year 1870-1:</p> </tr> <tr> <td>April 12th</td> - <td>60°</td> + <td>60°</td> <td>April 16th</td> - <td>74°</td> + <td>74°</td> </tr> <tr> <td>May 15th</td> @@ -17683,7 +17644,7 @@ Santa Barbara for the year 1870-1:</p> <tr><td> </td></tr> <tr> <td colspan="3">Coldest day in the year, Feb. 22d</td> - <td>42°</td> + <td>42°</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3">Warmest day in the year, Oct. 20th</td> @@ -17806,7 +17767,7 @@ Adventure among Utes, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>-<a href="#Page_123">3</a><br / <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"   on bay of San Francisco, <a href="#Page_294">294</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"   with grizzly bear and cubs, <a href="#Page_459">459</a></span><br /> <br /> -Æsculapius, a son of, <a href="#Page_272">272</a><br /> +Æsculapius, a son of, <a href="#Page_272">272</a><br /> <br /> Agua Frio, <a href="#Page_287">287</a><br /> <br /> @@ -17904,7 +17865,7 @@ Bee-Hive House, <a href="#Page_175">175</a><br /> <br /> Better things ahead, <a href="#Page_299">299</a><br /> <br /> -Bell's Cañon, <a href="#Page_393">393</a><br /> +Bell's Cañon, <a href="#Page_393">393</a><br /> <br /> Beale's Springs, <a href="#Page_410">410</a><br /> <br /> @@ -17942,9 +17903,9 @@ Border missionary, a, <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br /> <br /> Bogus mining companies, <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> <br /> -Boisè, valley of, <a href="#Page_219">219</a><br /> +Boisè, valley of, <a href="#Page_219">219</a><br /> <br /> -Boisè City, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>-<a href="#Page_226">6</a><br /> +Boisè City, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>-<a href="#Page_226">6</a><br /> <br /> "Borers", <a href="#Page_377">377</a><br /> <br /> @@ -17998,9 +17959,9 @@ Cavalier and Corncracker, <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br /> Camping-out, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>, <a href="#Page_419">419</a><br /> <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" near summit of Rocky Mountains, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span><br /> <br /> -Cañon City, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br /> +Cañon City, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br /> <br /> -Cañon, Echo, <a href="#Page_159">159</a><br /> +Cañon, Echo, <a href="#Page_159">159</a><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" of Columbia, <a href="#Page_255">255</a></span><br /> <br /> Castle Rock, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a><br /> @@ -18169,7 +18130,7 @@ Conclusion as to Chinese, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br /> <br /> Cock-fights, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>, <a href="#Page_471">471</a><br /> <br /> -Cottonwood Cañon, <a href="#Page_410">410</a><br /> +Cottonwood Cañon, <a href="#Page_410">410</a><br /> <br /> <i>Constitution</i> steamer, <a href="#Page_468">468</a><br /> <br /> @@ -18264,13 +18225,13 @@ Duluth, <a href="#Page_267">267</a><br /> <br /> Eagle, a plucky, <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br /> <br /> -Echo Cañon, <a href="#Page_159">159</a><br /> +Echo Cañon, <a href="#Page_159">159</a><br /> <br /> Election imbroglio, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br /> <br /> Elk, <a href="#Page_149">149</a><br /> <br /> -El Dorado Cañon, <a href="#Page_414">414</a><br /> +El Dorado Cañon, <a href="#Page_414">414</a><br /> <br /> Elevation, changes of, <a href="#Page_416">416</a><br /> <br /> @@ -18340,7 +18301,7 @@ Fourth of July, <a href="#Page_476">476</a><br /> <br /> Fort Alcatraz, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Benton, <a href="#Page_252">252</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Boisè, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Boisè, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Bowie, <a href="#Page_376">376</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Bridger, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Cameron, <a href="#Page_376">376</a></span><br /> @@ -18364,7 +18325,7 @@ Fort Alcatraz, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Point, <a href="#Page_277">277</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Riley, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Rock Springs, <a href="#Page_418">418</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" San Josè, <a href="#Page_277">277</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" San Josè, <a href="#Page_277">277</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Sedgwick, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Stevens, <a href="#Page_271">271</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Stockton, <a href="#Page_328">328</a></span><br /> @@ -18492,7 +18453,7 @@ Hercules of the Plains, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br /> <br /> Hell Gate, <a href="#Page_253">253</a><br /> <br /> -Hell Cañon, <a href="#Page_405">405</a><br /> +Hell Cañon, <a href="#Page_405">405</a><br /> <br /> Heller, Louis, <a href="#Page_383">383</a><br /> <br /> @@ -18782,9 +18743,9 @@ Mark Tapley's philosophy, <a href="#Page_122">122</a><br /> <br /> Massacre, Sand Creek., <a href="#Page_139">139</a><br /> <br /> -Maladé, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +Maladé, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> <br /> -Machado's, Ranch, Señor, <a href="#Page_342">342</a><br /> +Machado's, Ranch, Señor, <a href="#Page_342">342</a><br /> <br /> Maricopa Desert, <a href="#Page_366">366</a><br /> <br /> @@ -19039,7 +19000,7 @@ Pass, Sangre del Christo, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>-<a href="#Page_86">6</a><br <br /> Parks, Rocky Mt., <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> <br /> -Parley's Cañon, <a href="#Page_161">161</a><br /> +Parley's Cañon, <a href="#Page_161">161</a><br /> <br /> Paymaster, a lucky, <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br /> <br /> @@ -19300,7 +19261,7 @@ San Joaquin River, <a href="#Page_444">444</a><br /> <br /> San Mateo, <a href="#Page_466">466</a><br /> <br /> -San Josè, <a href="#Page_466">466</a><br /> +San Josè, <a href="#Page_466">466</a><br /> <br /> San Salvador, <a href="#Page_472">472</a><br /> <br /> @@ -19312,7 +19273,7 @@ Scout after Apaches, <a href="#Page_404">404</a><br /> <br /> Segrist, Mr., <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br /> <br /> -Señors and Señoritas, <a href="#Page_92">92</a><br /> +Señors and Señoritas, <a href="#Page_92">92</a><br /> <br /> Sermons, Mormon, <a href="#Page_169">169</a><br /> <br /> @@ -19537,7 +19498,7 @@ Ute Indians, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> <br /> <br /> Valley of the Platte, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" Boisè, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" Boisè, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" Burnt, Powder, and Pratt's rivers, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" Snake, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>-<a href="#Page_230">30</a></span><br /> <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" Grande Ronde, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></span><br /> @@ -19867,383 +19828,6 @@ furs on.</p> </ul></div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Across America, by James F. 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